I:~a~ ""i'f"
-~o:,g;. — 'Bb';~ $": -b^; ~.
*`
I ia:" - BI~ -:
s",i-rqii~a
n:


B


1,263,989;'2' ='w' K  L  W:3 L ~~~~~~- s. L~. 9 
*      I S1        *        -;;  i.;
p;              --  0  0  -;  D  0  f; 00 X ft D  C.. S; tV 0! ftD k~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~; -
LS^                      O Fd0X  RtEt0: 0 tpbA  0
OPPOR^^TUNI Tl~tTYX^
Ww~lWUN
'W ZIRKEN~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:


i::


f S_}\
t:;
s.? a00
S=|M i;
* S
tS S f iF D


j


X,'*  A;0 0. D.0:0.',
2 5::.t  *;  "  l: |   '
-r i. Mm:
B.':f  -. n
Ci:''.e;; 11",:ts
i J PS 
AaiS I S ~  f; 3J; 
* i. s; S         Y_,
''4
-s: - '< iti'".:.:::'S =~~:;: 'i, -,,,:LI; f f;7 '
*  'S;., ' ':,'.
'  ',~~.f  ', t. R;,5.t 
i  S'.'.  diD  ': S
'?-..  -'. '""~l", CC, ci".:'':I: X  fi;  y~, C, 1_;i
_"i
''
" —,~~;i
P —;,...4


i.. 4';-" ~ "",~ in,i.
~~~-.; ~,::ltf '\ -'Lg-";n- _i i~
*' i: ~~ 'Pa~
%":; la;,ZI


X _I
%,
i"
1 ~*I~: r~;,~:i
~;:,~-;.; ~ ~
~ZR~ I:~- ~; —a- ~~t, 
`',-;:.*i"c Ba- _:1


x  ~    x  
\d-X;~~~~~:Y-,  d?#-ADI NUCI  X




co;            i
00.   I
_  f
E  D.                                         -:                        i
_  _-1~P.,2
S2 w!
B o




k








Isles of Opportunity
'Am.. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~:  




?;;i;:s~~ -~;~ -~-sT 1-il ~;;r ~
113i152zimizz11115iz1~~~~~~~~~~~:i~.~~ 11  1.    1 ~< >...  mV..M,.5.i ~:R 'a   l.3} 3 z. t>'',  ' 'i'.  i'' fs z  <>u'2S~  j.zEUE9'.'zE3sl~E  >',  ' E'"%+;%.5h  f. ~F-:...: ''' iiiii i3i.,,. j. m, z/ S z j,, ' 'j,, \ j, W y.,j j, zj......, j 
d g '0'    gi '.62 '' i'im'  d'H' '2m  i, 3  w,,
* } } sW t W i~wi~i M AS. i, W a.,..j <.. }''.......  U''i. '.j' '. ii'.Cii..''i5l
Z~~i i                   m    S     N        '       F''.Xsmi  C   I|II 
' '''''. ' }.Sz~'z.-''.'U;2"t '..-. l-....................... li. ~       ~        ~:          ~ -,''' z.0.'i".''i'i'w  '.-..i  B'0' S '. 
s' jS''&E'\25m'&KW zM] ' '; * I l I~~~~~~~~a
2 |.t.|| -|_ 2 3''5''m' 5] * I l....... | l l I~~~~~~~~~~~~~
'~i i..''.. _ 
_ i >. ^ m  *  Y~~~~~~~~j "''|''"'''.!li'9"'~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~li
'g''iliii_ _ Ef Yik
"z2 W,._  | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~rsrs.S '~ i.'  '  'i.    _ I E 3 1 C 3 1.~.i~vCo ijA 1
j3~-::i;.:,. '.-" ' '  '~~.. ~  '~~.'.'  ''.'i:$O l. '... i  '''.,,  "' }  Y 




Isles of Opportunity
Progress and Possibilities in the
Philippine Islands
By
LW. DONALD WARREN
Instructor in Bible and History, Philippine Junior
College of Seventh-day Adventists, Manila
REVIEW AND HERALD PUBLISHING ASSOCIATION
TAKOMA PARK, WASHINGTON, D. C.
PEEKSKILL, N. Y.             SOUTH BEND, IND.
Printed in the U. S. A.




1 3 2
Copyright, I928, by the
- Review and Herald Publishing Association




(j 7-cAI


TO THE YOUNG MEN AND
WOMEN OF THE PHILIPPINES, UPON WHOM RESTS
THE RESPONSIBILITY OF
CARRYING THE GOSPEL
TO THEIR COUNTRYMEN,
THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.




Prefatory Note
MANY valuable and interesting books have been written
about the Philippine Islands, in both the Spanish and the
English language. The one interested in studying this picturesque country will find a wealth of material, both historical
and descriptive. The Spanish conquerors and missionaries,
here as in America, kept a remarkably complete and accurate
record of their observations and accomplishments. Travelers
and traders from other nations who during the last four centuries came into frequent contact with the Filipino people,
wrote at considerable length about the islands. These writings are almost always interesting, and frequently marked
with vivid and powerful description.
It is not the purpose of the present writer to add greatly
by way of history or general description to the already abundant literature of the Philippines. His interests are rather
of a missionary nature, and are concerned with the great
problem of carrying the gospel to the people of these islands
as speedily as possible. This archipelago has been, from its
earliest settlement by Europeans, one of the most fruitful
fields for the gospel. God's closing message to the nations
of earth has met with a most gratifying response from the
various groups of Filipino people. And these islands stand
to-day as a practical object lesson to the entire Orient in the
outworking of the principles of the gospel.
It was the privilege of the author to spend six very happy,
active years in the Philippine Mission field. Much material
has been gathered frdm personal experience and actual contact with the people, which is the most fruitful and agreeable
of sources. Some was made available from association with
other missionaries and business men. Many interesting and
helpful facts have been acquired through the reading and
teaching of Philippine history, and through the author's
6




Prefatory Note                   7
natural attraction to all matters Filipino. Acknowledgment
is hereby made of the valuable service rendered by these
various agencies; and the information is passed on with the
hope that what has proved a most fascinating subject to the
author, will inspire the reader to explore this field for himself, and to devote his life to the evangelization of such lands
as the Philippines.                         L. D. W.
Baguio, lMoultaiin Province, P. I.




Contents
A Land Geographically Favored      -    -    -         9
"Philippines, My Philippines"    -    -    -    -     19
The People of the Philippines -    -    -    -21
Three Hundred Years as a Spanish Colony    -    -     31
Why the Philippines Changed Sovereigns -     -    -   43
The Stars and Stripes in the Far East  -   -    -     51
The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century        -   63
Language, Manners, and Customs        -    -    -     79
Methods of Travel in the Philippines    -    -    -   93
Manila, the Pearl of the Orient  -    -    -    -    111
The Summer Capital in the Mountains     -    -    - 125
Trophies of Forest, Lake, and Seashore     -    -    141
Itinerating in the Provinces  -    -    -    -    - 157
The Response of the Philippines to the Gospel   -    177
Progress of the Advent Message     -    -    -    -189
Training the Filipino Youth as Missionaries  -  -    211
8




A Land Geographically Favored
ALTHOUGH the Philippine Islands were for three hundred
thirty-three years a part of the great colonial empire of
Spain, and have since 1898 been under the protection of the
Stars and Stripes, yet neither in Europe nor in America do
people know very much about this picturesque and interesting land. A true knowledge of these beautiful Pacific islands
cannot be gained merely from reading books and magazines.
To know them as they are, and to experience the spell which
their beauty exercises over mind and heart, it is necessary
to live in them for a considerable time.
Transient tourists and business-bent representatives of
Western manufacturers, do not see the Philippines at their
best. They do not get near enough to the heart of the country
and its people truly to know and love them. More fortunate
are the foreign teachers and missionaries who sever the ties
that bind them to their homelands, and who unselfishly come
to live among and work for these attractive people. For to
know the people intimately is to love them as ourselves.
During the first few months of our stay, the call is strong
to return to the homeland. But as we become acquainted
with the people and their ways, and adjust ourselves to the
tropical climate and other new conditions, the longing for
our former home becomes gradually less pronounced. And
the' longer we stay, the stronger becomes our attraction for
the country and its hospitable people. Happy indeed is that
young man or woman who is privileged to leave his native
country and spend a period of years in such a land as the
Philippines. It is an education and a means of character
development not to be obtained in any other way. Besides,
this is the plan ordained of God to carry the gospel message
into all the world.
The Philippines are a part of the long, looped chain of
islands which fringe the eastern coast of Asia, from the
9




10


Isles of Opportunity


peninsula of Kamchatka to the Indian Ocean. Their immediate neighbors to the north are Formosa and the sparkling
cluster of Japan's imperial islands. To the south are the hot
and populous, but no less beautiful Malayan islands of
Borneo, Java, and Sumatra. Thus the Philippines occupy
a central position among their many sea-girt neighbors, lying
some five hundred miles distant from the teeming coast of
China. They are separated from that ancient land by the
rollicking, tempestuous China Sea. Less than two days in
a modern, swift-sailing Pacific liner will carry one pleasantly
from Manila to Hong Kong; and the great Oriental cities of
Tokio, Kobe, Shanghai, and Singapore can be reached in
only a few days more.
Manila is nearly seven thousand miles distant from
America's western seaports, with the boundless expanse of
the mighty Pacific lying haughtily between. But this distance is now very comfortably traversed in from eighteen
to twenty-five days, and the voyager can visit on his way
the lovely Hawaiians of the mid-Pacific, the common meeting ground of the races. The traveler can also well afford
to linger as he passes through the emerald isles of Japan,
to enjoy the refreshing grandeur of Fujiyama and the entrancing wonders of the Inland Sea. These will serve as a
fitting introduction to his more fascinating sojourn in the
Philippines.
The Pacific is now spanned by several excellently equipped
steamship lines. One may leave the Canadian sentinel city
of Vancouver by one of four palatial "Empress" liners of
the Canadian Pacific, and arrive in Yokohama in ten short
days, with Manila only eight days farther on. Or if fancy
prefers them, there are the beautiful " President " steamers
constantly sailing from the Golden Gate and from Seattle,
the gateway to the great Northwest. One may also take
happy passage on smaller, but no less seaworthy Japanese
vessels, with their polite and agreeable crews of Japanese
seamen.
Manila is a favorite stopping place for tourists from many
lands, as they make their way east and west around the




A Land Geographically Favored


11


world, and back and forth between Asia and Australia.
Those who find the needed time do not fail to visit the wonderful, pine-scented retreats of the mountain city of Baguio,
and the charming old Moro town of Zamboanga far to the
south. Even with all our modern conveniences, one should
allow about a month for the delivery of a letter from America
to the Philippines, though splendid cable and radio service
is maintained between the two shores of the Pacific Ocean.
We must not forget for a moment that the Philippines
are distinctively a part of the mighty Orient, though they
have enjoyed contact with Western civilization for full four
centuries. Many customs and institutions of the West have
been transplanted to these islands, as the couriers of the
white race have sought to improve the spiritual and economic
condition of their brown brothers. Yet in spite of these
changes, which are also blessings of the highest order, the
Philippines are still an Oriental country. The quaint customs and dress of the people in many places have remained
unchanged, and the native tongues are to-day more correctly
and rhythmically spoken than ever before. In the more remote interior districts, the native people build their houses,
till their little plot of ground, and pursue the even tenor of
their lives, as in the days before the coming of the Spaniard.
Historically and geographically the Philippines are the
open gateway to the Far East. This country alone, among
all Eastern peoples, has as a whole accepted Christianity
along with the elements of democratic government. And
because the Philippines form a practical laboratory of
American institutions in Asia, our great Republic should
be more concerned about this land than about any other part
of the Orient. Our people at home know all too little of
the moral and spiritual possibilities of this island possession
in the East.
At home one may often hear of the depressing, diseaseinfected tropical climate of the Philippines. Let me say first
of all that such a condition is something of a myth. Of
course, all tropical countries are more subject to the ravages
of fatal diseases than are the temperate regions north and




Isles of Opportunity


south. But the Philippines are remarkably free from those
scourges which spell havoc for the white man, having one
of the most healthful tropical climates in the world.
Here, as within the Panama Canal Zone, scientific work
has accomplished wonders in stamping out disease. Malaria
and typhoid fever are still quite common, but experience has
shown that these, too, can be eradicated. The deadly epidemics of Asia frequently make their presence known, but
these have made little headway since the decisive victory
of American physicians in 1904. Anyway, conditions of
climate are no valid reason for refusing to go to any part
of the world where there is need for the gospel of Christ.
The gospel commission is all-inclusive, embracing every
nation, kindred, tongue, and people. And wherever the
Master commands us to go, there He has promised to attend
our way and to protect His ambassadors from every danger.
By our hesitation to advance where God leads the way, we
deny our faith in His infinite power and in the promise of
a soon-coming Saviour.
There is a most agreeable variety of climate and life
throughout the Philippines. These vary greatly with the
altitude, nearness to the sea, and distance north of the
equator. The islands lie between 5 and 22 degrees north
latitude, stretched out over a distance of one thousand miles
from the southernmost tip of Mindanao to the tiny Babuyanes
of the north. There are nearly four thousand islands in
the group, and of these about eleven hundred are large and
fertile enough to be inhabited. The largest and most important island is Luzon, containing the capital city of Manila,
situated on the beautiful Manila Bay. The other islands of
chief importance are, in order of size, Mindanao, Samar,
Negros, Panay, Palawan, Mindoro, Leyte, Cebu, and Bohol.
The total area of them all is about equal to that of Arizona,
or twice the area of Illinois. At present, there are less than
twelve million people living in the islands, but that is fifteen
times as many as the Spanish conquerors found when they
came. Unlike its neighbors, Japan and Java, with their congested and rapidly increasing populations, the Philippines




A Land Geographically Favored


13


are not a densely peopled land, except along the coast and
in the fertile river valleys.
The country is capable of nourishing four or five times
its present population. All that is necessary is for more of
the land to be placed under cultivation. One third of the
land is still covered with virgin forests, and only one tenth
of the total area is devoted to agriculture. As we travel
through the islands from province to province, we see great
tracts of land miles in extent lying idle and with scarcely
an inhabitant. Cogan grass and other plants many feet high
cover this land with a dense, luxuriant growth. Many such
localities are flooded during the period of heavy rains, but
they could, with a little expense and labor, be transformed
into extensive and highly productive rice fields.
When her benefactors shall have done for the farm lands
of the Philippines what they have done in establishing
churches, hospitals, and schools, this archipelago will become
one of the garden spots of the world. And instead of bringing into the country the necessities of life from old Cathay,
as is now being done to a considerable extent, the Philippines
will then be sending out the fruits of her labor to all the
nations round about. Her chief products, which are already
finding a large place in the markets of the world, are hemp,
from which enormous quantities of rope are made; an everincreasing quantity of sugar; the various products of the
coconut palm; and, unfortunately, many thousands of pounds
of tobacco. A people without industries is practically helpless, and if this island nation is to become the spiritual leader
of the Orient, her moral influence must be sustained by a
strong and enduring economic system. This is a rather
difficult lesson to learn, but the Filipino people are manfully
and successfully shouldering the burden.
Heat and moisture are the two great drawbacks to life
in the tropics. But curiously enough, the heat in most parts
of the Philippines is seldom extreme. New York and Boston
frequently become hotter than most temperatures recorded
in the islands. The hottest temperature on record in the
city of Manila was 103.5~ Fahrenheit, but within the last




Isles of Opportunity


ten years the mercury has not risen above 100~. The little
town of Vigan, on the northern Luzon coast, being at sea
level and surrounded by hills, is probably the most uncomfortably warm of any of the Filipino towns. The writer
once spent four days there during the month of May, and
those were four days of perpetual Turkish bath.
The hottest months of the year are April and May, when
much of the country becomes very dry; but this is the season
of the bracing northeast trade wind, and the nights afford
considerable relief from the heat. During these months the
delightful mountain town of Baguio receives thousands of
visitors from the scorching lowlands. All places near the
sea enjoy the sweep of the cooling sea breezes, and places
which are farther inland are usually quite high above sea
level. Since "going up is going north," one may pass from
the tropical heat of the coasts to the invigorating temperate
climate of the mountains, and return again to his starting
point, all within the limits of a day.
From November to February in the islands, the weather
conditions are almost ideal, with bright, clear days and cool
and decidedly stimulating nights. The best houses are built
high above the ground and generously ventilated. There
are no abrupt changes of temperature between day and night
or from season to season, so that one can wear light, cool
clothing throughout the year.
The tropical nights are, as a rule, most delightful. There
is scarcely anything more romantic and satisfying than
a moonlight stroll on the snow-white coral sand of the
beach, with graceful, waving coconut palms on one hand
and a noisy, rolling surf on the other. Canoeing at night
on one of the myriads of bays and estuaries, when every dip
of the oar sends out silvery phosphorescent sprays in all
directions, is a most delightful relaxation after a hard, hot
day, and a soothing balm to jaded nerves. The liquid, lurid
moonlight of the tropics enthralls every lover of the night
with its bewitching magic.
Our friends must remain for a number of months in
the Philippines to appreciate fully the significance of rain.




A Land Geographically Favored


15


Sometimes for more than forty days the rain seems to fall
almost incessantly, with seldom one redeeming ray of sunlight. It is not uncommon for six to ten inches of water to
fall in one day. When such a downpour occurs, of course
the streets and fields are flooded. During the wettest season,
the citizens of northern Manila hold what they call a " rain
fiesta." The streets are traversed easily with small boats,
and the people can be seen everywhere floating on rafts made
of bamboo or the wide, buoyant stems of banana plants. At
such times those who can afford them wear tall hip boots,
the others wear no shoes at all, while the little children, both
boys and girls, plunge into the water garment free. The rainy
season continues for several months, and makes traveling
from place to place quite annoying.
We cannot talk about the weather of the Philippines
without giving you at least a passing acquaintance with
typhoons. Islands to both north and south of us are comparatively free from these visitations, but this group seems
to be directly in their path. A typhoon, or tropical cyclone,
is often fearfully destructive, and is an imposing thing to
watch from a safe viewpoint.
The excellent Philippine weather service gives ample
warning of the approach of these terrible storms, so that
ships may seek a safe harbor to anchor, and the people
shelter themselves from  the fury of the elements.  The
wind often attains a velocity of one hundred twenty miles an
hour, making man feel his own insignificance. The sea is
lashed into mighty waves, which break on the shore with
a booming roar, and dash up the cliffs for hundreds of feet.
Often there comes a dead calm in the midst of the storm,
when the sun appears for a few moments. Then, wholly
without warning, the wind begins anew its relentless assault,
coming from  an entirely different direction.  Oftentimes
houses are completely unroofed, and the largest trees torn
out by the roots.
The rainfall during a typhoon is tremendous, transforming brooks into roaring rivers and valleys into long winding
lakes. The fury of a tempest can rarely be tamed, and the




16


Isles of Opportunity


damage done to buildings and crops frequently amounts to
millions of dollars; but the people have, perforce, learned
to take these matters philosophically.
Another very interesting sight at sea is the traveling
waterspout, which sucks up huge quantities of water as it
passes, and sometimes rains a shower of fish back into the
sea. Very few persons have been so fortunate as to catch
this inspiring spectacle with the camera.
Philippine scenery rarely becomes monotonous. Traveling at sea, one views a constantly changing panorama of
islands, many of which are picturesque in the extreme.
On land, one passes over long stretches of level, fertile
plains, but there are always the rugged outlines of fine mountains in the background. And once among these mountains,
the marvels of the landscape are multiplied tenfold. Some
of them are grass-covered to their very summits; others are
buried from base to summit in the rankest tropical growth.
On yet others, pine forests begin to cover the slopes at
four thousand feet elevation, which in turn are replaced by
oak forests at five or six thousand feet. Clearings called
"kaingin" are frequently made on the mountain sides for
the raising of upland rice, and very elaborate terraces are
built by the mountain tribes. The many rushing streams
and waterfalls of the mountains are a never-ending delight
to the one exploring them.
Everywhere, on both sea and land, the eye meets constantly a matchless blending of greens and blues,- greens
in the vegetation and in the water, blues in the water and
in the sky. The cloud effects are often marvelously beautiful. The splendor of Philippine sunsets cannot be surpassed in any land, especially those viewed across Manila
Bay and the gulf of Lingayen. A most remarkable phenomenon of the heavens, which has never been observed
outside of these islands, is a complete reflection in the east
of the glories of the western evening sky. One has to consult his watch and his compass to convince himself of the
unreality of this display.




A Land Geographically Favored


17


A striking feature of Philippine landscape are the numerous active and extinct volcanoes. The most famous of these
is the celebrated Mt. Mayon, in the province of Albay. This
gigantic smoking mountain is a delight to behold, being of
the most exquisite form, that of the perfect cone, so that
the volcano presents the same appearance when viewed from
any direction. The author secured two photographs of the
peak, taken from diametrically opposite sides, and these are
quite indistinguishable. The mountain rises to a height of
nearly eight thousand feet, from an almost level plain, and
the outer circumference of its base measures nearly one
hundred miles.  An excellent automobile road extends
entirely around it, and the trip can be made easily in less
than a day.
Mayon, though quiet and peaceful at present, is a veritable
storehouse of titanic energy.  In previous eruptions lava
has flowed into the sea and volcanic ash has fallen at a distance of many miles. Many times in the past have the pretty,
hemp-growing towns at its foot been overwhelmed by streams
of lava and showers of volcanic rock.
Another interesting volcano is little Mt. Taal, in the
middle of Bombon Lake, about forty miles south of Manila.
One night in January, 1911, fourteen hundred lives were
lost in the space of a few moments by an unheralded eruption
of this volcano. The highest mountain in the islands is Mt.
Apo in Mindanao, whose summit rises to a height of 10,312
feet. Second to this is grim Mt. Pulog of northern Luzon,
whose massive crown towers above the scores of other peaks
in the Mountain Province.
Gigantic limestone cliffs are seen in many of the more
mountainous regions, and along the coast of Palawan these
rise like mighty fortresses directly out of the sea. They
assume wonderfully beautiful, and sometimes most fantastic,
forms, and are full of caves in which are found the edible
birds' nests so highly prized by the Chinese. Above St.
Paul's Bay in the island of Palawan, towers a majestic peak,
with a wonderful limestone dome, which resembles a great
2




18


Isles of Opportunity


cathedral. Near it is another remarkable mountain known
as Liberty Cap, because of its peculiar form.
Beneath this same range of hills lies the scenic wonder
of the Philippines, the famous Underground River. Up this
strange stream a launch can run for more than three miles,
to where a massive pile of rock, caused by a fallen section
of the roof, bars the way. Climbing over this obstruction,
one may continue the trip for another half mile in small
native boats, to a place where the cave roof meets the surface of the water and further progress is made impossible.
A trip up this river will never be forgotten. There is
no danger of getting lost, as the three short side passages
which run off from the main cavern all end blindly.
If one's boat is provided with powerful searchlights, a
great profusion of stalactites and stalagmites in all conceivable forms can be seen on every hand. The vaulted chambers and long, straight passages of this natural underground
causeway, strongly resemble those of the New York subways. During the rainy season, water pours from the roof
in many places, causing a continual shower bath. The mouth
of this weird river is exposed to a heavily breaking surf
during the season of the southwest monsoon, but at other
times of the year it is readily navigable.
Formations similar to this are found in other parts of
the islands. An adventurous American soldier once embarked in a small boat on an underground river in Samar,
and passed completely under a large mountain. Judging
from the thrilling experiences which he related, this trip
would also be well worth taking.
There are many other natural beauties of the Philippines
about which you will surely want to know. But these must
be reserved for succeeding chapters. The love and devotion
which the Filipino people feel for their native land, which
they fondly call the Gem of the Eastern Sea, is gracefully
and musically expressed in the words of their national
anthem,




A Land Geographically Favored


19


"Philippines, My Philippines"
"I love my own, my native land,
Philippines, my Philippines.
To thee I give my heart and hand,
Philippines, my Philippines.
The trees that crown thy mountains grand,
The seas that beat upon thy strand,
Awake my heart to thy command,
Philippines, my Philippines.
"Ye islands of the Eastern Sea,
Philippines, my Philippines.
Thy people we shall ever be,
Philippines, my Philippines.
Our fathers lived and died in thee,
And soon shall come the day when we
Lie down with them, at God's decree,
Philippines, my Philippines.
"Thy past has little known of peace,
Philippines, my Philippines.
From want and war without release,
Philippines, my Philippines.
Then speed the day when evils cease
And happiness for thee increase,
The day of plenty and of peace,
Philippines, my Philippines."




COURTESY~ CB H TA~~NNMa            COURTESY Me E. KERN               COURTESY, R. R. FIQUHR
Types of Filipino Life, Showing Costumes
Center, Igorote gir fros Bontoc. Left and right, Filipino maidens of tie educated class, Manila.
20




The People of the Philippines
HOWEVER picturesque and inviting any land might be, it
is of little interest to travelers and to the world if its inhabitants are not equally attractive and hospitable. It is
the people of a country that make it great, rather than the
grandeur of its mountains or the beauty of its forests and
rivers, though it frequently happens that those lands which
are the most richly favored by nature contain the most sturdy
and enterprising peoples. Provided climate and conditions
of living are favorable, such beauty spots of nature are a
standing invitation to neighboring peoples to come in and
inhabit them.
For this reason the Philippines early drew to their shores
wave after wave of adventurous Malay settlers. Hence it
follows that these to-day make up the great bulk of the
population. In later centuries the Spaniard came, and seeing
the attractiveness of the land and its people, felt constrained
to stay and cast his lot among them. At various times
throughout the centuries there came visitors and traders
from other countries of Europe, as well as from among the
various peoples of Asia. The Chinese carried on intercourse
with these islands at a very early date, bringing their silks,
porcelain, glass, and iron in exchange for what the Philippines had to offer,-pearls, shells, betel nuts, and jute cloth.
Many thousands of Chinese have permanently settled in
the islands, and have freely intermarried with the Malay
population. This was to be expected, in view of China's
nearness to the Philippines and the ease with which the
Chinese adapt themselves to a new   environment.  The
Chinese, however, have never been allowed to come to the
country in excessive numbers. And those who are here at
the present time are mostly craftsmen and retail merchants.
A few Japanese also have located in the islands, largely
-on the island of Mindanao, though the climate here is a
little too warm for the people of this race. One sees, too,
21




22


Isles of Opportunity


a considerable number of dark, swarthy Hindus from Calcutta and Bombay. These are, for the most part, proprietors
of charming Indian bazaars in Manila and the smaller cities,
of Iloilo and Cebu. Some of them are employed by large
commercial houses as private watchmen. But, unlike other
leading cities of the Orient, the police force of Manila
is not composed of the tall, bearded Sikhs from the Punjab
of India.
Members of the white race are surprisingly few in the
Philippines, though the land has been for several centuries
under foreign dominion. There are only a few thousand
pure Spaniards remaining, with a slightly larger number of
American residents. There are small communities of British,
German, and Swiss business men in the larger towns, with
occasional representatives of other nationalities. A foreigner
can travel for long distances in the provincial districts without meeting a solitary member of his own race. There is,
however, a large group of the population known as mestizos,
or half-castes. These are the result of intermarriages between the Filipino people and those who have come to dwell
among them. Many of the successful merchants and political
leaders of the Philippines have sprung from among this
numerous class. They are generally of a stanch and energetic
make-up, and possess many admirable personal qualities.
But it is of the true Filipinos, the original native inhabitants of the land, that we wish to convey a picture here.
The great mass of the people are pure Malayan, unaffected
in blood by the other races which have at various times
come in contact with them. Setting forth originally from
the southern peninsulas of Asia, these people reached the
Philippines by way of Borneo and the islands farther to the
west. All their permanent settlements had been made in
the archipelago before they began to keep written records.
The distribution of the various Filipino tribes throughout
the country is practically the same to-day as when the light
of history first fell upon them.
The earliest historical mention that was made of the
Philippines is found in the annals of the Chinese traders who




The People of the Philippines


23


were sending their ungainly junks to the islands as early as
the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The land fnust have
been peopled some centuries previous to this, as there were
well-defined settlements in many places at that time, and the
arts of the people were already highly developed. But the
real history of the islands began when they were discovered
by Magellan in 1521, and brought into touch with the nations
of Europe. Since that date Philippine affairs have been inseparably connected with those of European nations. In
fact, these people have adopted and assimilated Western
ideas more readily than any other people of the Orient.
The Malay immigrants made the voyage in their small,
slow-sailing boats called barangays, each accommodating
about one hundred persons. Each boatload of settlers formed
a separate colony of its own, and the captain of the boat became the head of the colony. Such a settlement was also
called a barangay, which was later changed by the Spanish
into the modern word barrio. A number of barangays frequently grouped together for protection, and the ruler of
such an alliance bore the dignified title of dato. A ruler
with a still wider authority was termed a hari (king) or raja.
This arrangement is still found among the Mohammedan
Filipinos of Mindanao and Sulu. Probably the latest wave
of Malayan colonists to arrive in the islands were these
Mohammedan tribes of the south. In language and customs
they resemble most closely the original race from which all
Filipinos sprang.
All the Malayan peoples are of light brown color, with
a still lighter undertone on some parts of the body. Individuals, however, may vary from extremely dark to almost
white, depending upon the degree of exposure to the tropical
sun. The eyes are dark brown, and the hair is straight,
black, and abundant. Though they are a race small in stature,
they are finely formed, muscular, and active. The finest
athletes of the Far East to-day are among the Filipinos.
The physical type is nearly the same throughout all
Malaysia, but the various peoples making up the race differ
widely from one another in culture. There exist also great




24


Isles of Opportunity


differences in religion. Many of the Malay tribes are still
pagans. -On some of the smaller islands the people are
Hindus, like most of the inhabitants of India. Still other
tribes are Mohammedans; while in the Philippines alone they
are mostly Christians.  Life for many generations upon
these warm, tropical, fruitful islands gradually modified
these emigrants from Asia. Hence in mind and body they
are a very different race from the Mongol inhabitants of
the mainland.
The first of these people to reach the Philippines were
the wild, pagan Malay tribes. The true Malays call these
folk " Orang benua," or "men of the country."  Some of
them are almost savages, and formerly practiced ceremonial
cannibalism and head-hunting. They are confined entirely
to the mountainous regions. They are fierce and warlike,
and resist approach. Sometimes they eat human flesh as a
ceremonial act, and some prize above every other trophy the
heads of their enemies, which they sever from the body and
preserve as ornaments in their homes. These probably represent the earliest and rudest stage of Malayan" development.
Some, like the Manguians of Mindoro, have continued in
this wild state until the present time.
At a later date than the arrival of these primitive tribes,
there came to the Philippines others of a more developed
culture and a higher order of attainment. Driving the earlier
comers into the interior, these peoples took possession of
the low country and the coasts of nearly all the islands.
Though all of one stock, they differed considerably among
themselves, and spoke many, but closely related dialects.
These were the ancestors of the great mass of the Filipinos
of to-day.                                       a
The most numerous of these peoples are the Visayans,
scattered through all the central islands of the archipelago.
They are frequently divided into two classes, the Panayans
and the Cebuans. On the extreme southern portion of Luzon
are found the Bicols. North of these, holding the fertile
central provinces of Luzon, with Manila as their metropolis,
live the Tagalogs. The extensive, rice-producing plain of




25


The People of the Philippicnes


northern Luzon is occupied by the Pampangos and Pangasinans. All the northwest coast is occupied by Ilocanos,
and the valley of the Cagayan River by a people commonly
called Cagayanes, but whose dialect is Ibanag. There are
other distinct branches of the Filipino people scattered
widely throughout the islands, but they are much smaller
in numbers and less important than those above mentioned.
It is estimated that there are eighty-seven distinct dialects
spoken in the Philippines, but of these not more than eight
are commercially and socially important.
There are large areas of-good land in different parts of
the islands which have never been developed for agriculture.
In these places the inhabitants are naturally few. But there
are other districts in which the population is extremely dense.
Among these are the long, narrow Ilocos plain of northern
Luzon, and the leading Visayan island of Cebu. Many of
the people, having once become attached to a locality, prefer
to endure hard conditions of living rather than to leave their
old homes and loved ones and move to a new place. But
the Ilocanos and Cebuans have been compelled to move,
since the food supply has not kept pace with their increasing
numbers.
The government has thrown open to homesteaders much
of the hitherto unoccupied land, and many of the people have
become happier and more prosperous by moving to the thriving new localities. Thus the Cebuans have extended their
language and their industries over the whole northern half
of Mindanao, and the Ilocanos, leaving their former seat on
the shores of the China Sea, are crossing the great central
mountain range into the fertile valley of the Cagayan. The
shores of this river have been made to blossom as the rose,
though the chief product of importance is tobacco. On the
great Manila North Road and on the more difficult mountain
trails, one can see long trains of covered bull carts, traveling
almost entirely at night, carrying these Ilocano settlers to
the site of their new homes.
Thus I have given you in brief outline the origin of the
Filipino people. But there is much more to know about




26


Isles of Opportunity


them than who they are and where they came from. The
people of America know all too little about their brown
brothers on the opposite side of the Pacific. We have asked
them to adopt our language and institutions, and they are
doing so with commendable earnestness. But I fear we have
not stopped to study the many admirable features of Filipino
culture. For in its sphere, the civilization of the East is as
elegant as anything the West has to boast.
The man of the Orient is never in a hurry, and he has
abundant time for the finer amenities of life, which we of
the Occident are sometimes too rushed to cultivate. In our
great desire to advance the interests of science and business,
we do not often find time for much sober thought and reflection. The chief occupation of the East is reflection. Its
calm, untroubled existence in the past has given rise to
some fine philosophies of life which, though sometimes
fatalistic, seem to drive away worry and make life less of a
burden.
There are many evidences that in earlier centuries the
Philippines were under the influence of Hindu civilization.
The native words signifying warfare, religion, government,
literature, and industry, with all kindred ideas, are undeniably of Hindu origin, and clearly show that at some former
time India was their schoolmaster in these matters. It is
not strange, then, that Hindu culture should be reflected in
these islands. There is a distinct atmosphere pervading the
whole East, which, as Kipling says, is entirely different from
the spirit of the West. Asia, with its nine hundred million
human beings, is the land of superstition, romance, mysticism,
and astonishment, as well as a land of knowledge and culture. Only as one penetrates this mystic veil that surrounds
the East can he understand its people and appreciate their
virtues. In a sense, the Philippines are the gateway to the
Orient, and here the two great civilizations of the world
have become fairly well acquainted with each other.
Many pictures have been drawn of the Filipino character,
and these vary just as widely as do the viewpoints of their
authors. The East is decidedly a field of contrasts, and we




* The People of the Philippines


27


are not surprised to find that the Filipino people present a
wide range of characteristics. As with all other peoples,
there is an attractive side and an unattractive side to their
make-up. As the c6untry progresses in education and industry, and the people catch a vision of what they may
become by effort and training, the desirable qualities are becoming more pronounced.
There are different classes of the people, also, which
present varying characteristics, and give one entirely different impressions of Filipino character.  The common,
uneducated man of the soil has changed very little with
the passing of the centuries. The ancient ruling class, and
the more intelligent people generally, were favored by the
Spaniards, and developed into a small, proud aristocracy.
These co-operated with the Spanish authorities in ruling
their countrymen, and to-day they compose the leading
political element. It happens that a large number of them
are either Spanish or Chinese mestizos. But as a rule they
are more interested in their own social and economic advancement than in the welfare of the Filipinos as a whole.
Fortunately, there is growing up in the country a large
class of educated young men and young women, who are
sincerely interested in the uplift of their people. As teachers,
doctors, nurses, as religious, moral, and industrial leaders,
they are giving their lives to the betterment of their fellow
men, and not seeking fame or reward for themselves. The
future history of the Philippines will be written, not in the
work of her political leaders, but in the life and devotion
of these young people. The Filipino hope of attaining a
position of greatness among the nations rests upon their
self-sacrificing efforts and faithfulness to duty.
When the war of 1898 brought the Americans to the
islands, the finer, nobler side of the native had unfortunately
never been presented to them. They knew that John G.
Paton and other missionaries had been eaten by cannibals
somewhere on this side of the world, and our soldiers ignorantly supposed that the inhabitants of all the Pacific islands
were of that class. They bantered one another, as they




28               Isles of Opportinity q
sal 1d up Manila Bay, about which of them would make the
first  steak" for the Filipinos.
The Spanish fr   ars in Manila, who had fled for safety
from the interior distrits, told many wild, hysterical stories
of the bloed-curdlrng cruerly of the natives>  Expressed in
strong, vituperative Spanish, these creted a most u3rfavorThes Filipn fbOare leringi rapidly to be eae thrifty, and
*thin that was out of the ordinary, — harel fe et, har headi
bare hacks bolos and nipa roofs. They were convinced that
the people with whom they had to deal were savages.
The Filipinos fought with desperate bravery to deface the far superior force of the Amerins, they employed
guerilla warfare in their oppoition. As tse vast majorit of
'the American soldiers returned to the homeland Without
knowing the Filipino peopl as   ends their meager ifstories about the Philippines. And many of thes distrtd
reportae belie     evnat the pee ant tim e




The People of the Philippines


29


The Filipinos are not a warlike people. They avoid
trouble whenever possible, and will submit to injustice long
after another people would have rebelled. They have been
correctly described as meek, quiet, gentle, kindly, hospitable,
and very polite. These elements have come to the foreground as the Filipino has been given the opportunity to
express his real nature. One American governor says of
them:
"The Philippine people possess many fine and attractive
qualities - dignity and self-respect, as shown by deportment; personal neatness and cleanliness; courtesy and consideration to strangers and guests; boundless hospitality;
willingness to do favors for those with whom they come into
contact, which amounts almost to inability to say 'No' to
a friend."
There are still some semicivilized tribes living in the
mountains, where the men and boys wear " G strings," but
these are not in any sense true representatives of Philippine
culture and civilization. They are most interesting and picturesque in their way, but they do not represent the Philippines of to-day any more than an Iroquois Indian chief represents our modern American society. The real Filipinos,
both men and women, dress very modestly and tastefully.
They are even more scrupulous in these matters than the
foreigner himself, and many a business man has declared
that he has to dress better in Manila than he does at home
in the United States.
That the Filipinos have greatly benefited from their contact with Western ideas, there can be no doubt. They needed
to learn, and are rapidly learning, to be more thrifty, to be
more accurate in business matters, to substitute careful investigation for the gambler's chance, to carry on their business with more energy, and to employ modern methods.
In short, they have acquired from Americans those qualities
which will make them economically strong, politically and
religiously free, and the moral leaders of the entire East.
While this process is going on, they must also retain and
cultivate those innate qualities and native abilities in which




30


Isles of Opportunity


they as a race excel. They must conserve and nurture the
gifts which are peculiar to them. The Filipinos are one of
the most optimistic people in the world, free from the blighting atmosphere of fatalism which pervades India. They are
a race of artists to their very finger tips. Had the controling influence in the islands been French rather than American, the Filipinos might now be prominent in the realm of
music, painting, sculpture, oratory, drama, and poetry.
American education has turned their minds in a more practical and probably a more profitable direction. But as a
people they are true lovers of the beautiful, in whatever
way that beauty is expressed.
Their native tongues were inadequate to clothe their
noblest thoughts, although they have borrowed freely
from the Spanish. An imperfect knowledge of English
still prevents them from revealing their full talents through
that medium. They are nobly endeavoring to master this
language, that it may be made the common tongue of their
country. The Filipino's natural gift of oratory enables him
to speak in public with perfect ease. He rarely becomes
self-conscious or embarrassed, and if he chances to forget
his lines, he is quick to improvise original ones. His love of
art is revealed in the beautiful churches, cemeteries, and
public squares to be found in nearly every municipality.
But the noblest and most fruitful gift of all to these
island people is their ability to understand and appreciate
spiritual teachings. They are capable of a far deeper religious insight than the old Spanish missionaries ever
dreamed. The gospel has been brought to them, and they
are making it a part of their lives. It is in the spiritual
realm that they will display their genius and leadership to
greatest profit in the future.  A  new era is beginning
throughout all Asia, and as its peoples are awakened to a
sense of their moral and spiritual needs, the opportunity of
the Filipinos will have come to assert the leadership for
which their position and past training have fitted them.




Three Hundred Years as a Spanish
Colony
THE most famous voyage ever made by those who sail
the sea was the crossing of the great Atlantic by Columbus
in 1492. To him belongs the honor of being the first to
demonstrate to mankind that the East can be reached by
sailing west. To his firm convictions and intrepid courage
the New World is indebted for its colonization in the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. His name will ever
stand in history as the prince of all navigators and explorers.
But there is another name in the annals of the sea which
is scarcely less significant than that of Columbus, and whose
voyage was even more momentous than his. This name is
that of Ferdinand Magellan. It was the ships of this stanch
and fearless seaman that first made a complete circumnavigation of the globe. Setting forth from Spain nearly thirty
years after the discovery of America, Magellan carried to
completion the work which Columbus had so nobly begun.
He sailed around and beyond America, crossed the boundless expanse of the mighty Pacific, and opened to European
trade and colonization the rich islands of the East.
Since Portugal monopolized for her own gain the African
route to the East, Spain was compelled to shift for herself,
if she was to share in Oriental trade. Though Queen Isabella
sent Columbus west on three successive voyages, on none
of them did he succeed in reaching the desired goal. He
had discovered something far richer than the luxuries of
Asia, a land destined one day to become the embodiment
of all the world's noblest and grandest ideals.  But he
died in ignorance, poverty, and shame, not realizing the wondrous contribution he had made to future generations.
The dauntless Magellan set sail from Seville, Spain, on
September 20, 1519, with five small ships and 234 men. In
a little over two months he had reached the shores of Brazil.
31




32


Isles of Opportunity


Cold, storms, and the lack of food, with constant mutiny
among his men, delayed the expedition for many months.
It was late the next year before he successfully made the
passage of the long, tortuous strait that bears his name. To
the great bleak islands, cold and desolate, which lay to the
south of his course, he gave the name of Tierra del Fuego,
from the numerous campfires of the natives which lined the
shore. One ship had deserted and returned to Spain; another had been lost, and only three passed out onto the waters
of the boundless Pacific.  Little did he realize the true
dimensions of this ocean, whose expanse was so remarkably
free from tempests. But the little fleet trustingly committed
itself to the elements, and fearlessly pursued its westward
way. The coveted Spice Islands lay somewhere ahead, and
they expected at any moment to catch a glimpse of them.
The days lengthened into weeks, and the weeks into
months, and still they went forward, borne on by gentle trade
winds over a stormless sea.  But they suffered horribly
from lack of food, eating in their starvation the leather
slings on the masts. It was a terrible trial of strength
and courage, and many of their number perished on the way.
The South Pacific is studded with a myriad islands, but
curiously their route lay too far north to behold them. They
encountered but three islands in three months of sailing,
and these were small uninhabited rocks, without food or
water, which in their bitter disappointment they named the
"Unfortunates."
Their relief must have been inexpressible when at last
they reached islands which had inhabitants and food, yams,
coconuts, and rice. It was here that the Spaniards first saw
the far-famed prau, the swift boat of the Malays, with its
light outrigger and pointed sail. So numerous were these
craft that they referred to the group as the Islands of Sails.
But the many thefts here practiced upon them led the sailors
to designate the islands Los Ladrones (The Thieves), a name
which they still retain.
The first sight which Magellan had of the Philippines
was the mountainous eastern coast of Samar, lying nearly




Three Hzundrcd Years as a Spanish Colony


33


a thousand miles west of the Ladrones. The seaworn expedition first landed on a small unpeopled island south of
Samar, but they soon moved on to the larger islands of the
archipelago, where much-needed supplies could be obtained.
At first it was difficult to secure food, as the natives had
less than they needed for themselves. But on the large fertile
island of Cebu, Magellan found many prosperous settlements,
and the inhabitants they met seemed to be friendly. The
people could supply the needs of the expedition, for they
were cultivating at that time rice, maize, breadfruit, and had
also coconuts, oranges, bananas, citron, and ginger. Among
their domestic animals were large numbers of dogs and cats,
with hogs, goats, and various kinds of fowls.
The Filipino houses then, as they are to-day, were raised
on high posts and roofed with thatch. To the unaccustomed
eye of the Spaniard, these dwellings closely resembled haystacks. Cebu seems to have been a large town even at that
time, for two thousand armed men came out to resist the
landing of the Spaniards. In its harbor were trading junks
from China and Siam, giving evidence of commerce between
the Philippines and other countries of Asia.
Assurances of friendship having been made, the Spaniards
were invited to come on shore, where they entered into
solemn compact with the natives. This compact was sealed
by each chieftain's wounding himself in the breast, and allowing the other to suck and drink his blood. The Filipinos
were greatly impressed with the service of the mass which
the Spaniards celebrated upon the shore; and after some
encouragement many of them desired to be admitted to the
white man's religion. More than eight hundred of them
were baptized, including the dato himself. A trading post
was established on Cebu, and profitable trade was carried on
for some time. The Filipinos understood the principles of
business dealing, for they had scales, weights, and measures,
and were fair and honest in trade.
But now comes the great tragedy of the expedition.
Magellan, eager to assist those who had befriended him and
accepted his faith, engaged in a local war to aid his new
3




34


Isles of Opportunity


friends. Leading a valiant force of fifty men against the
hostile tribes of a neighboring island, the great admiral
was fatally wounded. Thus fell the one upon whom rested
the hopes of founding a permanent settlement in the islands.
A splendid monument to-day marks the spot where this intrepid leader was slain.
In discouragement the little fleet again moved on under
newly appointed captains, and visited a few other islands of
the group. But being greatly reduced in numbers and losing heart in the venture, they decided to set sail for Spain,
returning by way of the African route. One ship was
burned for lack of seamen to handle it, and another was sent
back across the Pacific to America. Little hope was entertained that this latter vessel would ever reach its destination.
The third ship, the "Victoria," under the command of the
fearless Sebastian del Cano, succeeded in making the wearisome journey around the Cape of Good Hope and back to
the homeland, after an absence of three full years.
Only eighteen men of the original company survived this
terrible, yet wonderful voyage around the world. They took
with them, however, a few natives of the East to act as
guides and interpreters on future voyages. Spain welcomed
her worn and weary seamen with generous acclaim. To Del
Cano was given a title of nobility, as the representative of
his fallen chief, and the famous coat-of-arms showing the
sprays of clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg, typical of the Spice
Islands. It bore also a miniature globe, with the proudest and worthiest motto ever displayed on any adventurer's
shield, Primus circumdedisti me (You were the first to circumnavigate me). This was the greatest voyage of discovery
that has ever been accomplished, and greater than can ever
be performed again. It proved once for all the true size and
shape of the earth. Besides, East and West met for the first
time in the Philippine Islands in 1521.
As Spain and Portugal were the most prominent in this
work of discovery, the new lands of the world were divided
between them by Pope Alexander VI. According to the
papal line of demarcation, the Philippines would fall under




Three Hundred Years as a Spanish Colony


35


the dominion of Portugal. But as no one was quite certain
of this, due to insufficient geographical knowledge, Spain laid
claim to the islands. To appease the pope for any seeming
violation of his decree, the Spanish king professed great religious devotion, and declared he would colonize the islands
in the name and for the extension of the church. This king
was Philip II, in whose honor the islands received their name.
During the first half of the sixteenth century, Spain sent
two other expeditions to the islands, one from the mother
country and one from Mexico. But neither of these was
able to effect a permanent settlement. It was easy to cross
the Pacific from east to west, but almost impossible to return
because of unfavorable winds. The northern return route
had not yet been discovered. The ships were either wrecked
on uncharted coasts or fell into the hands of the wily Portuguese.
It was during this time that the immense wealth of South
America and Mexico fell under the avaricious grasp of
Spain. Pizarro had plundered the splendid empire of the
Incas, and blotted out their civilization, while Cortez was
ravaging the old Mayas and Aztecs. The riches of these
peoples had proved their ruin, for the old Spanish conquerors'
thirst for gold was well-nigh insatiable. The comparative
poverty of the Philippines and their great distance from
Europe, spared them from experiencing a similiar fate. And
when the islands were at last colonized in 1565, it was done
largely as a missionary enterprise, and many of the colonists
were representatives of the church.
The first of the permanent Spanish colonists came from
Mexico to the Philippines under the leadership of Miguel
Lopez de Legaspi. One often wonders why it was that so
small a force of men as these leaders commanded, could
so easily and quickly subdue the Philippines, separated as
they are into hundreds of islands, and having at that time
nearly seven hundred thousand inhabitants. But as already
suggested, several good reasons may be given for this. The
population of the islands was widely scattered and disunited
in language and customs. There were no powerful princes




36                Isles of Opportunity
with targe forces of figtiing men whom they could call to
rms.
Begtinning in Ceu and the othr1 Visayan islands the
occupation of the:Phiihpsines was speedily carried  uth  The
second mtuprtat settlement thatf wa  made stood on the
present site of the city of Iloilo  The campaigns were carried
on chiefly hy Salcedo and Goitit while the gvernor gave his
-attntiont i thfi  maty mt r _  of dmini st  i
Mainl a Bay, Whicdh Altni Ssae Anchroge for the Shi of Allt N
On the island of Midforo  a   encountered a  e    erful
stronghold of Moro pirates  These occupied two well-con
structed forts, surrounded with moats and defended by bras
anfison called iotokas, Buft with only for ty Spiards and
a few hundred native allies, Salcetlo coplfetely testroyed
ths hornsets' nest.
This victory opened the ath to Manila Bay, which va
first entered by Europeans in 1570. Located on the eastern
shore f the ay W     the old Moharmmmedan t wn  f Manil
surrouned hby a high stockade and rAle  at the time by a
rajah nameid &siliman  This site had o  g een the assemhing point for the Filiinoi iries of central uzon  They
held thi councis under the leafy shade of the many nus
plants tMat were characteristil of the lolitty, anfd from which
the city  erved its name. Goiti ws  te first Spaniard to
visit Manila, and tRiay the centrail  iaza in the city is amed
fr this stawart fig. 




Three Hundred Ycars as a Spanish Coloiny


37


From the first it was felt by Legaspi and his associates
that Manila should be made the capital of the islands, because of its wide harbor and central location. The landing
of the Spanish forces was at first most bitterly contested
by the natives, but the defenders fell back in helpless confusion before the impetuous attack of the Spaniards. Among
the dead was found the body of a Portuguese artillerist who
had led the Filipinos in the defense of the city. Legaspi
established his headquarters here in 1571. From this time
forward Manila has remained the natural political and religious center of the islands.
The Spanish conquerors were few in number, many
thousands of miles from their source of supplies, and surrounded by dangerous enemies in the East. But they went
fearlessly forward in their work of exploration and colonization. Within a score of years the whole island of Luzon
had been subdued and its people " Christianized," with the
exception of the wild, mountainous interior. This feat of
conquest was largely accomplished by the daring young
Salcedo, to whose prowess and leadership Spain is indebted
for her easy and complete occupation of these productive
islands.
It was extremely unfortunate for the Spanish cause that
this gallant leader was struck down by disease at the early
age of twenty-seven, only a few years after the death of
his grandfather, the governor. The Spaniards were not
prepared to protect themselves against the unfamiliar tropical
diseases which attacked them, and many lives were sacrificed
in those early years. Of the first fourteen thousand who
arrived, thirteen thousand had died before the end of twenty
years. Much of the suffering was relieved by the ministrations of the Franciscan friars. The influence of the church
was extended in the face of great danger and hardship. The
subjugation of the islands was primarily a religious conquest,
and the representatives of the church succeeded in carrying
their faith into even the remotest corners of the country.
The most conspicuous feature of every town in the Philippines to-day is the Catholic church standing at its center.




38


Isles of Opportunity


By the year 1600 the Spaniards had extended their influence over all the islands except Mindanao and Sulu. They
had even colonized the Ladrone, Caroline, and Pelew Islands,
but very disastrously to the inhabitants. The fanatical zeal
of some of the religious orders, chiefly the Jesuits, led them
to undertake many impractical things. Moro territory was
several times entered by them, but they were never able to
win many followers from among the Mohammedans.
At one time the Catholic leaders in the Philippines
thought it would be an easy matter to convert all Asia. Consequently, many missionary friars were sent to China and
Japan, but often these were treated very cruelly, and in
Japan some of them were put to death. China was desirous
of having the Spanish trade, but she emphatically did not
want the Spanish religion. Commercial treaties were made
with her and with various other peoples of the East, thus
greatly adding to the prestige of Manila. But the hopes of
the church were never realized. In the Philippines, however, the work of "Christianization" was very thorough,
and less than one million of the inhabitants to-day remain
in heathenism, only the Moros and pagan mountaineers.
The first sixty years of the seventeenth century was the
golden era of Spanish rule in the East. Manila became during this time the political and commercial center of the Orient.
Hither came great fleets of junks, with merchant princes
from many lands. Their merchandise consisted of all kinds
of silks, brocades, furniture, pearls and gems, fruits, nuts,
tame buffalo, geese, horses and mules, and all kinds of
animals, with birds in cages that sang and talked.
With the new moon in March every year a fleet of thirty
or forty vessels sailed from Manila for China. Because of
the monsoons which lashed the China Sea, this voyage required more than fifteen days. In May or June the fleet
returned. Between October and March there came each year
Japanese ships from Nagasaki, bringing wheat, silks, objects
of art, and weapons, and taking away from Manila the raw
silk of China, gold, deer horns, woods, honey, wax, palm
wine, and wine of Castile.




Three Hundred Years as a Spanish Colony


39


From Malacca and India came fleets of Portuguese subjects, with spices and slaves, Negro and Kafir, and the rich
productions of Bengal, India, Persia, and Turkey. There
came also the smaller craft of the Malays, who sold fine
palm mats, sago, slaves, water pots, and glazed earthenware,
black and fine. Manila was thus a great emporium for all
the countries of the East, whose trade seems to have been
conducted largely by and through the merchants of Manila.
But the vast possibilities of this trade were interrupted by
the jealous, short-sighted policy of the Spanish rulers.
During all the centuries of Spanish control of the Philippines, the country was governed as a part of Mexico, until
the latter obtained its independence from Spain. The trade
with Europe was carried on through Mexico. At first four
large galleons were maintained for this trade, which, heavily
laden with their precious cargoes, made regular trips across
the Pacific. They sailed northeastward from Manila to
the forty-second degree of latitude where the westerly winds
prevail, thence nearly straight across the ocean to the northern
coast of California. Their course then lay down the western
coast of North America nearly three thousand miles to the
port of Acapulco in Mexico. We can imagine how carefully selected and rich in quality was the merchandise with
which these solitary galleons were freighted, the choicest
of all the rich stores of Manila. The profits were enormous,
sometimes 600 or 800 per cent. On the safe arrival of these
ships depended in large measure the fortunes of the colony.
For generations these galleons were probably the most
tempting and romantic prize that ever aroused the avarice
of privateers. The first to profit from this rich booty was
the English sea-dog, Thomas Cavendish. Like Sir Francis
Drake, he scouted the whole northern half of the Pacific,
and lay in wait for the slow-sailing galleons. They were no
match in battle for his swift vessels and the terrible fighting
skill of his seamen. Many were the costly cargoes that fell
a prey to this greedy marauder. His piracy was sanctioned
by the government of England, which was seeking to check
the tyranny of Spain. There is an old story that tells how




40


Isles of Opportunity


his sea-worn ships came up the Thames, their masts hung
with silk and damask sails. The galleon trade could not for
long survive these tremendous losses. With the destruction
of the great Armada, Spain's power on the sea was gone
forever, and her name was no longer held in terror. English
freebooters controlled the oceans, and in 1610 the Dutch
appeared in the East, never to withdraw.
There were other reasons also why the Philippines lost
their position of leadership. One was the envy of the merchants of Spain, who prevailed upon the king to issue decrees limiting the cargo which the galleons might carry.
Their number was first limited to two each year, later to
one, and finally the trade was discontinued altogether. The
government in the Philippines was seldom efficient. Many
of the public officials were corrupt, and used their office to
increase their own fortunes. So many of the prominent
Spaniards were involved in fraud, that a conscientious
governor seldom succeeded in his reforms.
There was constant strife between the civil and the religious authorities. The archbishop maintained that he was
above the civil power, and his will was usually obeyed. The
Inquisition, or church court, was established in the islands,
through which was brought about the death of two governors.
The union of church and state bore its usual disastrous fruits.
The colony ceased to be progressive, and rapidly declined
into insignificance. The religious orders became grossly absorbed in business enterprises, and lost sight of their spiritual obligations to the people.
For fully one hundred years after 1650, the islands remained obscure and neglected. Little occurred that is of
interest in our story. Quarrels between the governor and
the archbishop continued. The conduct of both was selfish
and outrageous. All classes seemed to share the bitterness
and hatred of these dissensions. Violence went unrebuked.
Society degenerated under the corrupt rule of the church.
The system of lands deprived the Filipinos themselves of
the fruits of their labor, and there was little encouragement
for them to develop. The country was divided into large




Three Hundred Years as a Spanish Colony


41


estates, called encomiendas, and the people, like cattle, were
held to the land. Tribute and labor were habitually forced
upon them, which made their lives unhappy and bitter.
Though the "Christian" religion had improved their
moral condition, their economic interests had not been fostered. They had been made the victims of a grinding tyranny.
Native aspirations were continually stifled. Under such
conditions the land never could develop. Intelligent Filipinos longed for a change, and a few liberal Spaniards
looked with favor upon their cause. But it was not until
late in the nineteenth century that the people obtained their
long-sought liberty.
The great revolutions that shook Europe and America
during the latter part of the eighteenth century, influenced
to a greater or less degree all the nations of the world. With
the growth of civil and religious liberty, new contacts were
made between peoples and nations. The change was reflected
even in the remote Philippines. New trade activities sprang
up in the East, and these islands began again to profit from
them. Merchants from other countries than Spain were allowed to establish their business here. Manila and several
other seaports were thrown open to the commerce of the
world. Men of wealth began to invest their money in the
islands, at which time some of the modern Filipino industries
had their beginning.
A scientific survey was made of the archipelago, and the
plant and animal life classified. Valuable minerals were discovered in different places. Agriculture began to receive
attention, and the growing of more rice, sugar, and tobacco
was encouraged. A start was also made about 1850 in the
establishment of schools, though purely a church matter.
With the opening of the Suez Canal, many liberal Spaniards
came to the islands, who sympathized with the aspirations
of the Filipinos. Newspapers were founded in both the
Spanish and native languages, which did much toward putting the people in touch with the world. A new day was
dawning for the Philippines, but that time was not to come
without a tremendous struggle with the forces of intolerance.




PUBLWSHERS PH40TO        wfRVICEg N~ Y~&. Y.
Market Scene. Manli,,,,,,,  ~~ ~,,,,,,,~, ~,~,~ ~ ~  ~,,~,,~,~,,,, ~ ~,,,,,,,~,,~,,,,~~,,,~,~  ~~ z,,~ ~,,~~  z ~,,,,,,, i,,,,,~ ~,,,,, ~ ~, ~~ ~ ~,~,  ~~   ~~....,,,,




Why the Philippines Changed
Sovereigns
THE noblest ambition of any people is to exercise unchallenged the liberties with which the Creator endowed
them, and to be the guides and masters of their own destiny.
It cannot be denied that Spain had done much for the Philippines by bringing to its people a higher type of civilization.
She had shown them new and better ways of living. The
people had become familiar with the forms of religion, but
the power was frequently lacking because of the inconsistent
lives of the priests. A worthy example in righteous living
was not always set before them. But the Filipinos had responded with remarkable earnestness to Christian teachings,
and in the development of sound moral character had oftentimes gone beyond their teachers. An alert, intelligent race
by nature, they had caught the vision of what they might
become if their ideals and aspirations were given free expression.
But the Filipinos were ground down by a system of
fraud and oppression. In earlier times the oppressor was the
encomendero, who controlled the land and compelled the
people to cultivate it for him, besides paying their tribute
money. At a later period much of the land passed into the
hands of the friars, who became even more relentless despoilers of the people. Many devout Filipinos had entered
the priesthood, but were never admitted into the religious
orders, and served only in a limited capacity. Other talented
young men, whose families could supply the means, had been
well educated in the universities of Manila and Spain. But
they were continually suppressed by the Spanish authorities,
and were seldom assigned to positions where their abilities
might be proved and developed.
43




44


Isles of Opportunity


The Spaniards were extremely jealous of their monopoly
of all higher offices, for it was thus that they enriched themselves at the expense of the people. Any sign of awakening
on the part of the Filipinos, called forth the severest
measures of censorship and repression. The government
was largely in the hands of the church, and the church was
covetous, corrupt, and bigoted. With few exceptions the
governors and other public officials were the tools of the
priests. Spain dearly loved her medieval form of government, and had failed to keep pace with the other nations of
the world as they progressed. The spirit of the Catholic
Church is the spirit of the Middle Ages. These forces restrained the Filipinos just as long as possible, and contested
bitterly every foot of ground that they were compelled to
yield. But the time was at hand for a new order of things,
and gradually but surely the revolution came.
The eventful year 1872 marks the beginning of the new
Philippines. All liberal movements before this time were
but flashes of lightning that precede the storm. But now the
tempest broke in all its pent-up fury. And, strangely, the
new spirit which stirred the Philippines was instilled within
the people by the Spaniards themselves. The first ship to
pass through the Suez Canal sailed directly from Barcelona
to Manila. Henceforth the islands were to be in close communication with Europe, and no longer needed to look to
Mexico for leadership. An enlightened public press became
very active. The islands were aroused from slumber and
pulsated with the heartbeats of Western civilization. They
learned what it meant to yearn for self-expression, nationalism, and liberty. The old contentment with despotism crumbled before the rising passion for democracy. The Jesuits,
who had been expelled from the islands a century before
because of their greed, were allowed to return, but not to
acquire property.
In 1868 the people of Spain ejected their queen from her
throne, and proclaimed a republic, which existed for four
short years. This was a most favorable period for affairs
in the Philippines. Officers of the new government arrived




Why the Philippines Changed Sovereigns     45
in Manila with modern ideas of freedom, equality, and
democracy. They refused to be influenced by the priests,
and freely criticized the autocracy and immorality of the
church. The new governor, De la Torre, did all in his power
to implant the principles of religious liberty.  His chief
ambition was that under his rule individual rights might be
proclaimed in the Philippines. Processions in honor of liberty were witnessed for the first time by the Filipino people.
For the first time in their history it became safe to complain.
The gag had now been torn from their lips, and they at last
ventured to speak aloud. Their courage increased until at
length the whole islands were seething with the spirit of
revolution.
The most ardent leader in this movement was the
eminent Dr. Jose Rizal, who has become the national hero
of the Philippines. The greatest man the Malay race has
produced in modern times, Rizal was the embodiment
and prophet of all the aspirations of the Filipinos. Of a
less practical mind than many of his fellow reformers, yet
he could see farther and more clearly than they. He had
no sympathy with the agitators for immediate revolution.
He believed that his country should be made deserving of
better conditions by raising higher its spiritual and moral
standards. This desirable end was largely achieved under
his inspiration and leadership. Rizal gave his life as a
sacrifice for the ideals he cherished, and to-day he lives in
the memory and hearts of all his countrymen.
Rizal was born in 1861 in a small town on the southern
shore of Laguna de Bay. As a child he would sit for hours
on the margin of the lake, wondering whether the people on
the opposite shore were as cruelly treated as those of his
own town. His was a family of lawyers, priests, and magistrates, who could afford to give the boy all the education
he desired. His mother was his first and wisest teacher.
He pursued his studies in the colleges of Manila as far as
these were able to instruct him. Then he went to Spain,
and entered the Central University of Madrid, taking courses
in medicine and philosophy. After securing his degrees in




46


Isles of Opportunity


these subjects, he visited France, England, and Germany,
where much of his greatest work was done.
Rizal was a man of extensive learning and of almost incredible versatility. He was a skillful surgeon, a scientist,
a poet, a novelist, a sculptor, and a linguist. He spoke fluently in Spanish, French, English, German, Dutch, Danish,
and Cantonese, as well as Tagalog, Visayan, and other native
dialects. He towered among the greatest writers in the
Spanish tongue, in which he produced his most remarkable
books. In these he clearly set forth the wretched condition
of his countrymen, and suggested ways by which this might
be remedied. His plans were too mild for many of the
Filipinos, but radical enough to be denounced by the friars.
His writings were not allowed to enter the Philippines
openly, but they were successfully smuggled into hundreds
of homes, where they were read with intense eagerness.
With the hope of giving personal aid to the Filipino
cause, he returned to the islands in 1892, though he was
aware of the danger which he faced by doing so. Upon his
arrival he at once set about organizing a society called the
" Philippine League." His attitude toward the rulers was
peaceable and conciliatory. He was the one man through
whom the Spanish authorities could have come to an amicable
agreement with the people, but they stupidly arrested him
and sent him into exile in Mindanao. This further incensed
the people against the government, and made of Rizal the
national idol.
Abandoning all peaceful methods of reform, the people
now turned to the most radical measures. With much
secrecy a powerful society was formed, later known as the
"Katipunan," which admitted to membership all classes of
the people. This became the most influential organization
in the islands. Its principles formed the religion of thousands of the Filipinos, thus replacing the Catholic faith.
Like Masonry, the society taught many fine ideals, but
it encouraged revolution by violent means, if necessary.
Those who desired to become members of this order were
required to sign the constitution with blood drawn from




Why the Philippines Changed Sovereigns


47


their own veins. The country was stirred from north to
south, and when the society was finally discovered by the
authorities, they very well knew that rebellion was in the air.
Rizal was not the founder of the Katipunan, but another
great Filipino leader, named Bonifacio.
Growing restless from his long and weary exile, Rizal
asked permission from the governor to be sent to Cuba as
a government surgeon. This request being granted, he set
sail from  Manila, planning to reach Cuba by way of
Spain.  But his relentless enemies were ever watching
him lest he escape their malevolent grasp. False reports of
his actions preceded him to Spain. On landing in that
country, he was immediately arrested and sent back to
Manila as a prisoner of state. He arrived early in November, 1896.
There was no evidence of any kind against him to show
connection with the rebellion. Rather, all evidence indicates
that he opposed it. But from the first his fate was sealed.
The friars were determined that the year must not end before he should perish.  He was court-martialed for his
alleged complicity in the rebellion, and in the most farcical
manner was condemned to die. Every detail of that dramatic
trial has burned itself into the hearts of ten million people.
A new nation was conceived with the death of the three
priests on Bagumbayan field in 1872; that nation was born
with the martyrdom of Rizal on that same field, the morning of December 30, 1896.
Happy are these islands in having as an ideal one of
earth's supreme heroes. He stands to-day on the plaza of
hundreds of towns in the Philippines, beckoning, inspiring
the nation for whose life he gave his own. His last legacy
to his countrymen is the immortal poem, " My Last Farewell," written during the closing hours of his life. These
are regarded as the most sacred verses ever penned on
Filipino soil, and have been the greatest single factor in
molding the idealism of the modern Filipino youth.
After this supreme crime against humanity, the Spanish
governor, Polavieja, waged a vigorous war against the in



48


Isles of Opportunity


surrectionists. Unable to destroy their dauntless spirit, he
vented his spleen upon the noncombatant population by barbarous tortures and wholesale executions. By night men
and women were summoned from their homes for inspection,
and subjected to the most revolting indecencies. Men were
escorted to prison and maltreated so badly that, though they
were declared innocent, they were maimed for life. This
monster performed well his ghastly task.  After several
months of unprecedented cruelty, he was recalled, and a
more kindly man replaced him.
The new governor was desirous of making peace, and
offered amnesty to all who would lay down their arms before
a certain time. The Filipino leaders issued a proclamation
setting forth their demands. These demands were six in
number and deserve to be noticed:
Expulsion of the friars.
Parliamentary representation, freedom of the press, religious toleration, and the right of local self-government.
Equal pay and equal treatment for Spanish and Filipino
officials.
Restoration of all friar lands to their original owners.
No more banishments.
Legal equality of all classes.
They did not demand freedom from Spain at this time,
but only freedom from the domination of foreign priests.
The campaign cry of the insurrection was " Long live Spain,
but Death to the Friars." The governor agreed to all these
demands, and promised to pay a large sum of money to the
members of the Katipunan, if they would surrender all their
arms and send their leaders out of the country. This agreement is known as the " Treaty of Biacabato." It was signed,
and thirty-five of the rebel leaders sailed for Hongkong.
The governor issued a strong denunciation against the
friars, but did not fulfill his promise of expelling them from
the islands. He tried to reconcile the opposing forces, but
these proved entirely irreconcilable.  By endeavoring to
please both parties, he succeeded in pleasing neither. The




Why the Philippines Chainged Sovereigns


49


only solution was the expulsion of the friars, for as long
as they remained there could be no peace.
When the Filipinos saw that they had been deceived, that
the Spaniards did not intend to fulfill their promises, new
revolts broke out in many parts of the islands. These were
engineered by a strong Filipino organization in Hongkong,
led by the capable Aguinaldo. As the rebels raided the
provincial towns, the priests and other Spanish residents
fled to the forts and to Manila for safety. The wrath of
the people was directed especially against the friars, who had
robbed them of their lands. They hated the friars both
for their licentious lives and their greed of gain. The ferocity
with which the latter were treated shows to what desperation
the people had been driven. Only a few of them were
actually put to death, but the people so thoroughly convinced
them of how soundly they were hated, that the great majority
of the friars were happy to leave the islands. Not one remained in the inland districts; the terrible malice of the people made their stay impossible.
The Philippine crisis developed a number of very able
and intelligent leaders. Among the foremost of these in
wisdom and executive ability, stands Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo,
the military genius of the revolution. He was a young provincial teacher when the insurrections began. After the first
battle with the Spaniards in 1896, he issued a burning denunciation of their injustice, and thereafter became the " George
Washington" of the rebellion. He possessed the gift of
organization, and the power of leadership to a high degree.
With some knowledge of military tactics gained in Europe,
he and his associates succeeded in welding together a respectable army. He had won a number of engagements
with the Spanish before the treaty of Biacabat6, though the
forces of the government were being constantly increased.
As their cause seemed to be prospering against the authorities, the Filipinos planned to establish an independent
government, and banish the foreigners entirely from the
islands. Aguinaldo, though still in his twenties, was con4




50


Isles of Opportunity


sidered the best qualified to head the new republic, and for
a short period bore the title of president.
The man who acted as Aguinaldo's chief counselor, and
became head of the cabinet, was the brilliant Filipino lawyer,
Apolinario Mabini. He believed in independence at any cost.
He was considered the brains of the revolution, being one
of the strongest men the Philippines has ever produced.
How far the Filipinos would have gone in their struggle
for freedom, had not a friendly nation come to their aid,
is entirely problematical. At first the Spanish forces in the
islands amounted to only 1,500 men. But to meet the evergrowing power of the insurrection, Spain had brought over
28,000 well-trained troops, before she was finally compelled
to withdraw. The Filipinos seemed able to meet even this
force successfully.
But Spain had another army of 120,000 in Cuba, and
had she not been plunged into war with the United States,
she would doubtless have poured those troops into the
Philippines. She was determined not to relinquish these
islands without a struggle. Their natural wealth had been
considerably developed by her, and much money had been
expended for improvements, such as roads, bridges, churches,
and other buildings. She was fully resolved to maintain her
hold upon them.
But the startling events of 1898 were to throw an entirely
new light upon the Philippine question. These people were
not to be left blindly to work out their own destiny.
He who rules over all the kingdoms of men, had decreed
that the nation which to-day stands as the champion of civil
and religious liberty, should guide these islands to a higher
destiny than they themselves had conceived. A short period
of uncertainty was still before them, and then a wonderful
era of enlightenment and progress.




The Stars and Stripes in the
Far East
IT is beyond question that the coming of the Americans
to the Philippines at the opening of the twentieth century
was an act of Providence. The tremendous changes which
their influence has wrought during the past twenty-five years,
fully justify the American occupation of the islands.
From her very birth as a nation, our great Republic has
sought to give those under her protection the opportunity
to exercise all their God-given rights. These include not
only the right to govern themselves as they choose, but also
the priceless liberty for every man to worship God as his
conscience may direct.       -
In thus granting full civil and religious liberty to her
people, America has set an example for the world. By her
presence in the Philippines during these years, she has been
able to reveal to all the peoples of the Orient the noble principles of freedom for which she stands. Happy indeed for
the inhabitants of these islands, they now enjoy as great
privileges and as wide opportunties for advancement as any
of the citizens of the United States. And this has all come
about as the result of a seeming accident in the war with
Spain.
When war was declared in April, 1898, both the United
States and Spain had squadrons in Asiatic waters. The
Spanish fleet was riding at anchor at Cavite, in the vicinity
of Manila, while the American vessels had gathered at Hongkong. It was feared that the Spaniards might launch a naval
attack against our Pacific Coast. Hence Commodore George
Dewey, the American naval commander, was ordered to destroy the Spanish fleet.
He was thoroughly informed as to the whereabouts of
the foe. He had for days been awaiting this command, and
51




52


Isles of Opportunity


now he was ready to carry it into execution. He stole into
Manila Bay in the early morning, and made straight for the
position of the Spanish men-of-war. Only a solitary cannon
shot from the sleepy sentinels of Corregidor, at the entrance
to the bay, gave warning of his approach. His fleet was the
more powerful of the two, and immeasurably the more
efficient. With the full break of day he engaged the enemy,
and vanquished him without losing a man. In a few hours
the Spanish fleet was utterly destroyed, and Manila lay prostrate at the mercy of his guns. Seldom in the annals of naval
warfare has a victory been so quickly and so signally won.
The newspapers screamed forth the marvelous news on
the following day. Knowing the war was being fought about
Cuba, the Americans looked all over their maps of that
island in a vain search for Manila Bay. It was not there
nor in Spain nor anywhere in South America. For many
people in the United States, the Philippines came on the map
that second day of May. They immediately wanted to know
all about the Filipinos, and there was nobody at hand to tell
them. They assumed that these islands must be very insignificant indeed, or America would have known all about
them before. The story of the Philippines, as we have thus
far told it, was then unknown to the majority of Americans.
And the Filipinos, in their turn, knew just as little about
our country. A few of them had traveled through it on their
way to Europe, but they supposed that we were no different
from the other nations across the Atlantic. They knew. only
the estimate which the Spaniards had given of us.
It must not be supposed that the Spanish seamen lost
the battle of Manila Bay without a struggle. They resisted
bravely, and proved themselves man for man in no way inferior to their opponents. But their ships were old-fashioned
and in wretched condition, and against the modern equipment
of the attacking fleet their gallant fighting counted for naught.
The Spanish defenses of the islands had become practically
useless. In the grim crisis of battle, their cannon and torpedoes proved wholly unreliable. They had failed to make
preparation for the conflict that was sure to come.




The Stars and Stripes in the Far East


53


Unable to get his century-old firearms into fighting trim,
the commander of Fort Santiago committed suicide in despair. Like the rest of the Spanish system, their defenses
had fallen to pieces. The residents of the city were so
ignorant of the rules of civilized warfare that they sent out
a delegation of priests and nuns, beseeching the Americans
to have mercy on the vanquished. The commander of a
German warship that was lying in the bay, was decidedly
outspoken in his sympathy for Spain. He boasted to the
Spanish governor that as long as William II remained
emperor of Germany, the Philippines would never pass into
American hands. But the significant presence of British
warships in the bay led this distinguished gentleman to
change his mind.
The American forces did not at once occupy the city of
Manila. Their numbers were too few as yet to carry on a
successful land campaign. Admiral Dewey had performed
efficiently the task that his President sent him to do, but as
to further dealings with the Spaniards or the friendly Filipinos, he did not know just what steps to take. He did not
possess accurate knowledge of conditions in the islands, and
undervalued the moral power and the aspirations of the
people.
Even when Aguinaldo placed the plans for Filipino independence in his hands, and asked him to send them on
to the President, he despatched them by mail instead of by
cable, so little importance did he attach to them. The President himself was seeking to reach a decision as to the right
thing to do with the islands, and for this he needed all possible information. The Philippines had fallen into our lap,
as it were, but we did not at once know what to do with
them.
The three months following the battle of Manila Bay
was a trying time for the Filipinos.   The Spaniards
were now promising them everything,-liberty, autonomy,
independence, —if they would only take the Spanish side.
At first the Americans and Filipinos were allies, but misunderstandings caused a breach between them. Aguinaldo did




54                Ises of Opportsity
all he could to win his peole to merica but his effors
were mostly fruitless aafinst the isrepresentati   of the
firars. It wa the fixed plrpose of the ltter to widen this
rseach just asl muc  as posoible  Had our officers known
exactly what to do in this crisis, mnch of the unpleasantness
that followed wouldR- doubtless have been avoided.
By the end of July, eight thousand fresh America
oldier had reacled Mania Bay. They had been sent out
NEW ay: odung tsr ohm Philippfine Le9igisasre Milla,
This h  nd   re   t   o died ad built wholly by Filiminos+
from S manuf3 ran Iof o the captre of the city. Tfhev we 
laded at a little etuary a few miles south of Manil  and
thence marched 'northward to 'the attack Old Fort San
Antonio Abad fell first into their han, and it was her the
first American flag was raised in the isands  The Spaiards
bhid the cit's defenses outnum brd the Amfericans but
they were a sk and dispited lot.   n   fe    atel dMphit was 
made to drv  bacthe i vdinig army, butL that determined
t        not to  e es       On the following day it swept
tIhrouM 13gh the last ie o  fe nes, and   Manila capitaed
Aiugst  13, 1898  That day is now eebratedas a national




The Stars and Stripes in the Far East


55


It was not without great anguish of soul that President
McKinley came to his momentous decision. Night after
night he walked the floor of the White House seeking to
arrive at some safe conclusion. He sought help from every
available source, often falling down upon his knees to ask
light and guidance from God. There must be no mistake
in the final answer. His prayers and earnestness were rewarded, and here is the conclusion in the President's own
words:
"We could not give the islands back to Spain -that
would be cowardly and dishonorable. We could not turn
them over to our commercial rivals in the Orient-that
would be bad business and discreditable. We could not leave
them to themselves-they were unfit for self-government,
and they would soon have anarchy and misrule worse than
Spain had brought. There was nothing left for us to do but
take them all, and do the very best we could by them."
So the Philippines were joined to the United States, and
there they have remained to the present day.
The Filipinos were not allowed to take part in the occupation of the city. Their soldiers were undisciplined, and
it was feared that the officers might not be able to restrain
them from acts of violence to the Spaniards.
Up to this time the relations between the American and
Filipino armies had been friendly. But here began misunderstandings and distrusts that were for many months to
alienate these peoples and embitter their intercourse with one
another.
In the interim between the destruction of the Spanish
fleet and the capture of Manila, the Filipinos under Aguinaldo
had organized a provisional government and proclaimed the
independence of the archipelago. It was felt in America,
and with good reason, that this government was not yet
representative of all the people in the Philippines. The
Filipino leaders were untried men, and the people had had
no political training and experience. Consequently the United
States was reluctant to turn over to this unproved system
the affairs of the islands.




56


Isles of Opportunity


But we had completely overthrown the Spanish government, and were under obligation to establish another in its
place, which would represent all and do injustice to none.
The political ability of even the educated Filipinos was untried. They were given no assurances that their government
would be recognized, or that their wishes would be consulted
in the future of the islands.
There were also troubles which arose in regard to the
friars. The war had been a defeat for Spain, but it was in
a way a victory for the Catholic Church. President McKinley wished to acquire the islands by conquest, thus giving our country a clear title to them. But the treaty provided that the United States should purchase them by paying
to Spain the amount of $20,000,000.
The friars were highly pleased with the terms of the
treaty, for it provided that no lands held by religious bodies
should pass into the control of our government. This arrangement brought about a little later an embarrasing situation. The Filipinos, on the other hand, were disappointed
with the treaty, for above all else they were unwilling that the
friars should return to any of their lands. The proclamation
which the President issued, granted full religious liberty to
all parties in the islands. The friars personified all that
was ghastly and enslaving. The fear of their return under
American protection caused the radical Filipinos to continue
the revolution for two or three years longer. The people
believed that America was co-operating to restore the old
order of things, and they determined to resist to the last.
Our intentions, as later events have proved, were to deal with
the Filipinos with great liberality. But they did not trust
America's promises, and decided to strengthen their organization by force of arms.
The events of the critical months that followed are now
deeply regretted by both peoples, but they seem to have
helped in bringing about final understanding. Numerous
incidents led the Filipinos to believe that America was going
to treat them in the same way as Spain. A new government
was formed at Malolos, a town twenty-five miles north of




The Stars and Stripes in the Far East


57


Manila, by a congress with representatives from  most of
the provinces of central Luzon. The president of the native
state thus created was Don Emilio Aguinaldo. The head of
the cabinet was the brilliant Mabini, who also served as secretary of state. It was this Malolos government that resolved
to resist the occupation of the islands, and took up arms
against the American forces. This declaration of war was
very unfortunate, for it prevented the Americans from
trusting the overtures of the Filipinos, made by them after
their first defeats.
The hostilities began in the vicinity of Manila, where a
number of serious engagements took place. The Filipinos
fought with surprising stubbornness, but in every encounter
they were compelled to give way. They could not match
the superior organization and equipment of our Army, composed as it was of alert, aggressive young men from our
Western States. The Filipinos often charged our lines with
reckless bravery, but they had underestimated the fighting
qualities of the American soldier. Another source of consternation and dismay to the natives was the great American
cavalry horse, so large beside the small ponies of the Philippines. The people soon learned that it was disastrous and
futile to meet our superior forces of warfare in the open
field.
Following the battles in and around Manila, an advance
was made upon the Filipino headquarters at Malolos. It required six days to drive the native army and government
from its capital to a position farther north. Operations now
stopped during the height of the rainy season, while new
regiments of soldiers were being brought in from the States.
The Filipino army, still well armed, provisioned, and resolute, stretched in a long line of posts nearly across Luzon.
But there were differences among its leaders which could
not be reconciled. This friction brought disastrous results
in the death of General Luna, brilliant, though radical organizer of the army. It was believed that this man aspired
to a dictatorship, and he was assassinated by some of
Aguinaldo's soldiers.




58


Isles of Opportunity


The American generals, now with a strong force of men
at their command, determined to hem in the Filipino army.
They moved to the attack from three strategic directions.
But the plan was not entirely successful, because of swollen
rivers and other unfavorable conditions of the country. Our
cavalry swept down so swiftly, however, upon the Filipino
headquarters that the government and staff narrowly escaped
capture. These leaders saw the futility of further resistance
in open battle, and holding their last council of war on the
banks of the river Agno, they decided upon the dispersal
of the army. Aguinaldo, accompanied by a small party of
ministers and officers, slipped past the American outposts by
night, and made his escape up the Ilocano coast. But our
swift cavalry were hot upon the trail of the flying general.
Now began the most exciting pursuit of the entire war.
Continuing his flight northward until nearly overtaken,
Aguinaldo then turned east into the Igorot country, a land
of high and rugged mountain ranges. The chase never slackened, except when the trail for the moment was lost. The
path that was taken by the pursued general led over the
lofty mountains through the precipitous Tila Pass. Near
the summit is what is regarded as an impregnable position.
Here Gregorio del Pilar, little more than a boy, but a brigadier-general, with a small force of soldiers, the remnant
of his command, attempted to cover the retreat of his president. But a battalion of American infantry carried the pass,
with the total destruction of Pilar's command, he himself
falling among the slain. Aguinaldo succeeded in reaching
the shores of the Pacific, where a year or two later he was
captured by our forces, and took the oath of allegiance to
the United States.
The dispersal of their army did not mean that the Filipino leaders had given up the contest. A secret organization
was now effected for carrying on the struggle in all parts
of the islands. The only hope of success which remained
to them was to engage in guerrilla warfare against the
foreigners. The whole country was divided into a large
number of districts, each under the command of a leader




The Stars and Stripes in the Far East


59


whose authority in his territory was absolute. He compelled
the inhabitants to unite with his forces, and seized provisions
wherever they might be obtained. Many of the Filipinos
who opposed this unlawful method of waging war, were put
to death by the radical element.
This wide-spread spirit of opposition and lawlessness
made the task of American occupation considerably more
difficult. Before the work of subduing the islands was completed, we had brought over in the neighborhood of seventy
thousand soldiers. The fighting zones had to be conquered
one by one, and our army was scattered in small detachments
throughout the islands. The methods employed by the natives
were not in accord with the rules of modern warfare, and
it was dangerous for any foreigner to travel unescorted
through the interior districts. In fact, as some parts of the
country were pacified and won over to the American side,
the native leaders in adjoining districts frequently turned
brigands and preyed upon their fellow countrymen. It was
several years before banditry was entirely put down in the
islands.
But the work of pacification went gradually forward, as
the Filipinos became convinced that America was interested
in their welfare, and was not seeking to exploit and oppress
them. One by one the zone commanders laid down their
arms and their authority, some willingly and some reluctantly,
and took oath to support the government of the United
States. It was now no longer heroism, but sheer madness,
to oppose the new administration. The people began more
and more to realize that the surest path to peace and justice
lay in accepting the proffered protection of America.
Men who had fought in the insurgent armies now flocked
to the new standard in ever-increasing numbers. Some parts
of the country, as the island of Negros, invited the American
forces to come in and establish order. Thirty-nine of the
leaders who persistently refused to take the oath of allegiance,
were exiled for a short time on the island of Guam. But it
was not long until these also were returned and reconciled.
Providence had sent them a guide from an unexpected




Isles of Opportunity


quarter, and more and more they came to realize the wisdom
of following that guide. They reasoned that the principles
which had made America a great nation, ought to bear the
same fruit if applied to the Philippines.
It was not battles, but the first commission of highminded men sent out by President McKinley, that took the
heart out of the insurrection. It is a thousand pities that this
commission could not have arrived before the soldiers, and
not so long after them. Had the two peoples thoroughly
understood each other at the outset, there need never have
been any war between them. After a tireless investigation,
the commission issued a proclamation setting forth the
benevolent intentions of the American government. They
showed that it is contrary to American principles for the
government to take sides in any religious dispute. They
promised the people the fullest measures of liberty that the
conditions of the country would permit. They guaranteed
all civil rights, and promised not to exploit the islands, but
to preserve the natural resources for the benefit of the Filipinos themselves. They promised reforms in every direction, and justice that would satisfy the highest sentiments
and aspirations of the Filipino people.
At first the United States administered the affairs of the
islands through military governors. But it was our purpose
to establish an efficient civil government just as soon as it
could be effected. To this end the Philippine Civil Commission was appointed. The work of this memorable body of
men will stand as one of the most striking events in American history. Its president was Judge William H. Taft, of
Ohio, who became the first civil governor of the islands.
He was ably assisted in his task of bringing order out of
chaos, by four other competent American statesmen and
educators. To their number were soon added three prominent Filipinos, who were able to assist greatly in adapting
the new laws to the needs and capacity of the people.
Until 1907 this Commission carried the full burden of
the government, and performed its task exceedingly well. In
a remarkably short time the finances of the country were




The Stars and Stripes in the Far East


61


placed on a secure basis, a system of public schools was put
into operation, disease was suppressed, and a new era of
progress and enlightenment was ushered in. Rarely in our
history has any group of public officers so conscientiously
and thoroughly done their duty, as those who laid the foundation of the present Philippine government. Their faithfulness stands as an enduring monument to America's genius
in providing for those under her flag a full measure of civil
and religious freedom.
The quarter of a century which has passed since the new
leaven began to work in the islands, has witnessed a marvelous development of the Filipinos themselves. Few people
have responded so readily and so earnestly to the call of
opportunity and responsibility. The qualities long latent in
the Filipino character, are now finding abundant room for
expression. The days of the old Spanish tyranny are gone,
and a new day of hope and freedom and justice has dawned.
This nation is rapidly growing up into the full stature of
manhood, and confidently shouldering the burden which
Providence has placed upon it.
But the kindly hand of the great friend and protector
from across the Pacific, is still leading on, and directing the
Filipino people to still higher attainments. The motives of
the United States are not imperialistic. The American nation
feels a sacred responsibility to fulfill to these people the
duty it assumed thirty years ago. The Philippines stand
as a beacon faithfully radiating to all about them the light
and power of progress and liberty.




COURTUSY; C~ H TAVENNER
College of Medditio ind Surgery, University of the Philippines
"     The   ifax of the obhle s lem  f miblk 6duati, is the Univerity
4 fiPh IHO     a    6P         lCln se ferires~ vvhere 6 66 youlng men ani Vmune~
of       z the     6 
are         fod~lilg r f 0 lttni  of ukfuidgiO
E~i
at
2OURTY, W TAVI
Clibi-r:  b   it PhifiO ~d ~ifi6 G, ~~iddl Mit I8f til; Maiiiii jfle
62~j~e~~~g -g-~~f   yl~~C~~~~lc ~aa~~       sib~ ~ziert J




The Wonderful Changes of a
Quarter Century
SELDOM in history has any country experienced such
rapid changes and improvements as have the Philippines during the last twenty-five years. To one who has lived in the
islands all this period, the transformation may have seemed
natural and gradual. But the visitor who has not been here
since the days of the revolution, would scarcely be able to
recognize it as the same land. True, many ancient landmarks remain as monuments to the old order, such as the
fortifications of the old walled city of Manila, the hundreds
of grim and gray stone churches scattered throughout the
islands, the high stone towers built along the coasts as lookouts against the Moro pirates, and an occasional Spanish
bridge of clumsy masonry across some inland ravine. But
these serve only to accentuate the contrast between what
has been and what now is.
Though many primitive customs remain, as cannot but
be in any Oriental land, and doubtless always will remain,
yet within the past generation a new and modern Philippines
has been born. A people once submerged and trodden under
the foot of the oppressor, is coming into its rightful inheritance. The Filipinos are absorbing and utilizing the blessings
of modern civilization as few other peoples have done. Their
awakening has been complete, and they will still go on learning and developing just as long as the hand of their protector
leads them.
The ideals of two nations could hardly be more unlike
than those of Spain and the United States. Spain brought
to the Philippines the spirit of the Middle Ages, which was
the spirit of feudalism, greed, and intolerance. America
swept the islands with the tolerant, free, and envigorating
breath of the twentieth century.  From  a priest-ridden,
63




64


Isles of Opportunity


crushed, and bleeding people, the Filipinos have been transformed into a nation of freemen, conscious of their liberties
and opportunities.
The East is ever the land of contrasts. One still sees in
the islands the crude native dugout alongside the largest and
finest ocean steamers; or the primitive wooden-wheeled
carabao cart moving with calm, unhurried jog past the most
expensive high-powered automobiles. The lowly nipa hut
of the poorer people is within hailing distance of Manila's
finest hotel. The Chinese coolie, with his bare back and legs,
mingles with tourists, rich sugar planters, and Manila society,
who wear the latest styles of New York and Paris. But
the dominant note is strictly modern, save in the provincial
sections. A new atmosphere is to-day enveloping this quarter
of the staid and stately East. Spain was forced during the
last fifty years of her stay to yield much to the demand for
modern ideas; but the greater part of the progress and enlightenment of the Philippines is due to America's influence.
The blessing of most lasting worth to the Filipinos, and
which brings all other blessings in its train, is the free and
stable government which America has established. When
our battleships first found their way to Manila Bay, and
later when our soldiers and commissioners arrived, they
found the country in a state of utter confusion and disorder.
It had been racked by years of rebellion and bloodshed. The
Spanish authorities and the natives were living in constant
hatred and dread of each other.
The government had ceased to function outside of the
district surrounding Manila. The church had for the time
being lost its hold upon the people. All business and trade
were interrupted. Cholera and other epidemic diseases were
making terrible inroads among the population. The land was
lying idle, and there was poverty and lack of food on every
hand. Every resource was being employed to fight the
struggle to a finish for one side or the other. Banditry and
rapine were practiced in many places.
An atmosphere of fear and uncertainty pervaded the
whole country. It was a period of deepest agony, through




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century     65


which every oppressed people must pass before the daybreak
of their deliverance. But the whole scene was changed with
the arrival of the Americans, and with the new and just laws
which they gave to the islands.
The entire management of the country was placed in the
hands of a few competent men appointed by the President
and directly responsible to him. These men were chosen
because of their peculiar fitness for the work in hand. The
task of bringing order out of chaos in the islands was by no
means an easy one, and the best statesmanship that America
could provide was called upon in this emergency.
The old laws which Spain had inherited from the Romans
were in vogue in the Philippines. These were surprisingly
well-arranged and efficient, and drew forth the admiration
of the Americans. Had these been righteously and justly
administered, Spain need never have lost her Oriental possession. It was wisely decided to retain this system of laws,
and it stands to-day as the bulwark of the new Philippine
government. The Commission exercised all the executive
and legislative powers, leaving the judicial authority in
the hands of a Supreme Court and numerous provincial
courts.
Gradually a system of departments and bureaus was developed, similar to those under the control of the President's
cabinet. There was a considerable number of able Filipinos
who had received legal training under the Spanish administration, and these were soon competent to hold positions
of responsibility and trust. The Filipino members of the
Supreme Court and heads of departments, do honor to the
native ability of their race. And not only in matters of government, but in all the new fields of study now open to them,
these men have contributed much toward the uplift of their
people.
In the year 1905 the first real census of the islands was
taken, when the population was found to be a little more
than seven million. This was ten times the number of inhabitants which Spain found here in the sixteenth century.
With the blotting out of disease, the death rate has been
5




66


Isles of Opportunity


greatly lowered, and five million more people have since
been added to the population.
The census was taken in order to provide a basis for distributing representatives to a Philippine Assembly. It was
the purpose of the United States from the first to admit
the native people to a share in the government, provided
they should qualify themselves to assume such duties. The
islands were divided into districts, and the elections held, a
new and wonderful experience for the Filipinos.
This first native legislature convened in Manila in 1907,
with many noted American visitors present. Its members
learned with surprising alacrity the art of carrying on parliamentary proceedings. The Commission continued as the
upper house of the Legislature, and the new Assembly as
the lower house. Naturally the two did not always agree,
but the affairs of the islands under this arrangement were
very efficiently managed.
In 1916 came another great day for the Filipinos. In
that year Congress passed the famous Jones Act, modeled
after the Constitution of the United States, and which is
now the fundamental law of the Philippines. It provides
that the upper house of the Legislature shall also be entirely composed of natives, and bear the name of Philippine
Senate. The present political leaders of the islands have
been trained for public service as members of this body.
The Philippines regularly send to Washington two resident commissioners, who sit as members of Congress representing their country, but who have no vote. At first the
public officials were mostly Americans, but it has been the
plan to replace these with Filipinos as rapidly as the latter
could be trained for the various posts. The only American
officials of high standing remaining in the islands are the
governor-general, the secretary of public instruction, and
some members of the supreme court. The Filipinos themselves have shown a high degree of ability in conducting the
various departments of the government. And as their experience and confidence increase, they should be able to render still more valuable service to their country.




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century    67


Young men are no longer appointed to positions in the
government because of their wealth or social position, but
the public service is open to all who have ability and training, through a well-directed civil service bureau. This insures the best talent among the rising generation of Filipinos
for the positions of greatest responsibility. These young
men are advanced as rapidly as their experience and increased
training will permit. Thus there is always held out to them
the prospect of promotion as a reward for honesty and
faithful effort. It is to be regretted, however, that the jobs
which require the least physical labor are in greatest demand.
Clerkships are more popular among the younger Filipinos
than employment in engineering and agriculture. It seems
that the people here, as in America, are being educated away
from the land, though the crying need of the country is for
more farmers and better crops.
For several years after the American occupation of the
islands banditry and guerilla warfare were prevalent in many
places. To check this wide-spread crime, and to promote
peace and safety throughout the country, the Commission
created what is known as the " Philippine Constabulary."
This takes the place of the old civil guard of Spanish times,
but is far better organized and more efficient. In those early
years of American sovereignty, when suspicion and misunderstanding were common, many revolting acts were perpetrated which demanded the severest punishment. Crimes
were committed which are too horrible to describe. But
deeds of violence have become fewer and fewer as the country has been pacified and enlightened, so that the work of
the constabulary to-day is much easier and less exciting.
This national guard is divided into one hundred companies of about fifty men each, stationed throughout all
parts of the islands. Larger numbers of them assemble
where there is likely to be any kind of outbreak, as in the
Moro territory. They keep in touch with all parts of the
country, even the remotest districts, and send frequent reports to their central office in Manila. The constabulary
soldiers are neatly uniformed, armed with Krag carbines,




68


Isles of Opportunity


and well disciplined. The present peaceful condition of the
Philippines is largely due to the thorough work of these
native police, though a division of the American regular
Army is also stationed in the islands.
Before the introduction of strict sanitary measures and
modern methods of treating disease, the Philippines, like
other tropical countries, were swept by frequent scourges
of smallpox, cholera, and bubonic plague, with typhoid fever
and tuberculosis extremely common. The Spaniards had not
succeeded in greatly checking any of these diseases. The
people weakly surrendered to their ravages without any apparent effort at resistance.
The belief was widespread that the foreigners caused
these epidemics by placing poison in the wells. For this
reason the work of the American doctors and nurses was
seriously retarded in many places. But the opposition has
gradually given way, making it possible to vaccinate large
numbers of the people. Bubonic plague has not appeared
since 1903, and cholera and smalpox are becoming rare.
The annual toll of life from tuberculosis is gradually being
reduced.
Typhoid, however, still numbers its victims by tens of
thousands each year, because the people refuse to take the
necessary measures for protection.  Many hundreds of
artesian wells have been drilled in the islands to provide
the people with water that is safe to drink. But many
foreigners still insist'that all their drinking water be either
distilled or boiled. Where the natives still cling to their old
superstitions, the health officers cannot do the most effective work; but where the public school has aroused the people
to a sense of their needs, conditions of sanitation have remarkably improved.
In the splendid Philippine General Hospital, Manila
boasts the finest health institution in all the Orient. This is
capable of accommodating two thousand or more patients,
and affords training facilities for several hundred nurses,
both men and women. The graduates from this institution
return to their own districts and instruct their people in




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century   69


new and safer ways of living. Many other fine hospitals
have been established in Manila, and some in the larger provincial towns, so that a large part of the people have access
to them. The government is liberal in its appropriations for
public health, and yet there are many calls that go unanswered from year to year.
Much noble effort has been put forth by Protestant
missionaries in ministering to the physical needs of the people. Twenty years ago it was quite unusual to see welldeveloped Filipino men, but to-day the islands contain a
much more robust and virile race. The Filipinos have won
four of the seven Far Eastern Olympic games. The people
are beginning to take pride in making of themselves a strong,
energetic race. Medical and surgical facilities have so increased in the Philippines that the hospitals here were able
to furnish extensive aid to the sufferers in the great Japanese
earthquake of 1923.
In one respect the Philippines lead the entire world, and
that is in the care that is being given to the lepers. There
are more than twelve thousand of these unfortunate persons
in the islands. About half of this number are found in the
Culion colony, on a small island of that name two hundred
miles southwest of Manila. Here a brave young American
doctor, assisted by a small corps of native doctors and
nurses and a group of French nuns, is putting up a magnificent fight against the ravages of this dread disease.
Under the energetic encouragement of the late GovernorGeneral Wood, new buildings and equipment were furnished to this colony. A million dollars was raised by the
people of America for the benefit of the hapless inmates
of Culion. These persons are entirely shut away from their
homes and friends, and not allowed to return to their people
until it is certain that their affliction is cured.
It is'commonly believed, and with good reason, that
leprosy is an incurable disease, and that its victims are
doomed to an agonizing death. But the truth has now. been
abundantly demonstrated that it can be cured. Already
seven hundred men and women have been sent from Culion




70


Isles of Opportunity


entirely free from any trace of the scourge. The drug which
has brought this miraculous change is the now famous
chaulmoogra oil, which is extracted from a rare species of
Oriental tree. No nobler enterprise was ever undertaken
than the mission of Dr. Wade and his associates among
the unhappy dwellers on Culion. A new hope and new life
have been born in these otherwise utterly hopeless people.
They are being brought back almost from the very tomb
itself into the world of living, feeling men.
The Americans had not been long in the islands before
they recognized the pressing demand for better means of
communication.  The Spaniards had done considerable
toward the construction of roads and bridges, but these had
fallen into a wretched state of disrepair. American engineers soon began surveying for a system of provincial roads
radiating from Manila on Luzon, and from the central towns
on other islands.
These roads have been improved and extended from year
to year, until most parts of the country have been made
accessible to automobiles and other vehicles.  The latest
product of the, road-builder's art is the opening up to traffic
of the great valley of the Cagayan. The wonderful Benguet
road to Baguio will be described in another chapter.
One short railroad had been constructed in Spanish
times, running north from Manila to the Lingayen Gulf, a
distance of 120 miles through the central plain of Luzon.
But this road was poorly equipped and badly managed, so
that it lost to the owners a large sum of money each year.
Under efficient management, the railroad has now been
greatly extended both north and south, opening up many of
the richest provinces to trade and travel. Shorter railways
are also to be found on the smaller islands of Panay and
Cebu.
Mails are carried in the Philippines by the insular bureau
of posts, which in its operation compares very favorably
with the American postal system. Trains, autotrucks, boats,
and horses are all used in the work of distributing mails.
Two cents in postage brings a letter from the United States




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century      71


to the Philippines, and within the islands themselves only
one cent is required.
The city of Manila is well supplied with telephones, and
the lines are extended into several of the provinces. All
towns of importance can be reached by telegraph, the various
islands being connected by submarine cables. Radio is also
finding its way into the country. The station located at
Fort McKinley has the most powerful receiving instruments,
and has picked up messages from New York, London, and
Australia.
Extensive harbor improvements have been made in
Manila, Iloilo, and Cebu, with other ports developing as the
industries of the country make this necessary.  Regular
boats are operated between all the larger islands, making
travel and exchange of products safe and convenient. The
coasts and neighboring seas are carefully charted, and lighthouses have been erected wherever there is danger to navigation.
All these many improvements have paved the way for a
bright commercial future for the islands, if the people but
work to reap the fruit of them. There is great forest, agricultural, and mineral wealth in the Philippines which as yet
has only begun to be developed. Improved sanitation has
made the islands a suitable place for the white man to live,
though he may not possess here the same amount of energy
as in the temperate zones. The Philippines are near the
great lines of travel and the markets of the world. Already
their products are known and used in many lands.
The Filipinos themselves will probably never take the
initiative in developing their rich natural resources. Foreign
capital and enterprise are therefore needed to lead the way.
And these will come more and more as the government of
the islands becomes more stable, to insure the success and
safety of business undertakings. The Filipinos make efficient assistants under foreign business leadership, but they
have not developed quite enough confidence to launch out in
large enterprises on their own responsibility.  Attempts
made in this direction have not always been successful.




72


Isles of Opportunity


The one weak point in the industrial life of the Philippines
is the failure to make use of all the land for farming. Only
one third of the fertile grass lands is as yet being cultivated.
When the people become awake to the v~at possibilities for
wealth in the ground under their feet, and are willing to
cultivate it, even though the labor is hard, the Philippines,
instead of importing food from other countries, will be able
to supply large quantities of food to her neighbors.
But the crowning act of uplift and enlightenment in
America's program in the Philippines, was the founding of
a complete system of public schools. Education is the very
foundation of any nation's progress.  The strength of a
people lies largely in its youth, and that people is destined
to remain weak and obscure whose youth are not trained in
the elements of good citizenship. To become truly great
a country must possess capable and energetic leaders in religion, politics, and business. And these leaders cannot be
trained for their task without the aid of a thorough system
of education.
Until recently, very few Filipinos have enjoyed the benefits of even a primary course of study. As early as 1611 a
few higher schools were established in Manila, but these
were controlled entirely by the religious orders, and were
intended largely for the Spanish population. A small number of upper-class Filipinos received instruction in them, but
the sympathy of these was with the Spaniards rather than
with the native people.
Credit must be given to Spain for doing more for education in the tropics than any other government had accomplished before 1900. About the middle of the nineteenth
century, an attempt was made by the authorities to start
primary schools in some localities. At the close of the
Spanish era there were about two thousand of these schools
reported. The people eagerly seized this opportunity and
sent their children to school. But little that was of practical
value was taught them. The friars did not want the youth
to become well-informed and efficient. Wherever these
schools existed, they were closely supervised by the local




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century     73


priests, who carefully excluded from the pupil's study any
book that would foster patriotism or create a desire for better
conditions of living. The Filipinos were assiduously shut
away from the world's best thought and progressive ideas.
However, special attention was given to the children of
well-to-do parents who could afford to pay a high tuition.
Old Santo Tomas University and other higher church institutions, had graduated a considerable number of Filipinos
who demonstrated marked ability, particularly in the law
and in the priesthood. But the great mass of the people remained untaught. Thus it can be said the Filipinos as a
whole never knew the real meaning of education until the
beginning of the twentieth century.
Among the volunteer soldiers who came to the islands
in 1898, were many men of talent and ability along professional lines. Young doctors found abundant room to put
their knowledge into practice in hospital and sanitation
projects.  Young attorneys fitted naturally into the new
government, and received in the Philippines an excellent
apprenticeship for higher responsibilties in the homeland.
But the greatest need in the islands was for men who could
teach school.
Almost immediately after the occupation of Manila, the
schools of the city were reopened under the direction of an
American army chaplain. Day and night schools were
begun for the teaching of English, with the hope that the
confidence of the Filipinos.might be more easily won. The
first teachers for these schools were drawn from among
the enlisted men, and rendered faithful service until relieved
by regularly appointed teachers, who began arriving in 1901.
Even during the period of warfare there were fully one
thousand of these schools being conducted by the army. As
the occupation of the islands advanced, education became
general. It was by no means unusual for our troops to
capture a town one day, have a dance at night, and open
a school within a week. Nothing else so rapidly convinced
the Filipino people that we were actuated by altruistic motives.




74


Isles of Opportunity


The Philippine Commission before leaving America
had engaged a general superintendent of education for the
islands. An organic school law was at once enacted, which
placed all public schools under a central bureau of education.
The English language was made the basis of all studies.
The superintendent requested permission to engage 500
American teachers as the nucleus of a teaching force. But
so urgent were the appeals of the Filipinos for more help,
that this number was increased to 1,000. Before the end of
1901, 765 were at work in nearly all parts of the islands.
During the next year the number had grown to 926, the
largest ever at one time in the field. These were assisted
by whatever Filipino teachers were then available, who had
served under the old Spanish system. Large numbers of
promising young people, under the encouragement of highminded American teachers, gained new ambitions and made
remarkable progress in acquiring modern knowledge. Many
of these young men and women became teachers themselves,
and many entered other lines of work equally beneficial to
their country.
It was an almost superhuman task that faced that first
band of pioneer educators. There were tremendous obstacles to be overcome. The American teachers could speak
neither Spanish nor the dialects, and English was equally
unknown to the Filipinos. Only by the good nature and enthusiasm of both parties was this great difficulty removed.
Life in the provinces was completely disorganized.
Communications were lacking. Many islands were still infested with bandits. Local government, which is necessary
to maintain schools, did not function well at first. Epidemics
were still sweeping the archipelago. Forty-four of those
first American teachers now lie in the old North Cemetery
in Manila. Children had not formed the habit of school
attendance. What buildings had been previously erected
were now dilapidated and contained little or no equipment.
Devout Catholics looked askance at the association of boys
and girls in school together, and taught by foreign Protestant
teachers.




The Wonderful Changes of a Quarter Century    75


But even these barriers were insufficient to check the
mighty wave of enthusiasm which swept over the islands.
So eager were the Filipinos for the dawning of the
new era when real education should become general, that
they soon accepted on faith those things which they could
not fully understand. Parents were determined that their
children should make the most of opportunities which they
themselves had been denied. Many a family sold one of
its few work animals in order to keep a child in school for
a little longer period.
In a remarkably short time all the public schools were
filled. Instead of being compelled to send out policemen
to round up the pupils, it was almost necessary to use policemen to keep children away from schools that were already
filled to overflowing. As fast as school buildings could be
erected, more than enough pupils were at hand to occupy
them. This splendid public school system has been extended
until there are to-day nearly 1,500,000 pupils in the schools
of the Philippines. Thus these islands rank, in the percentage of pupils in school, with some of the oldest and most
enlightened nations.  And this marvelous transformation
has been wrought within the limits of a quarter of a century.
No other people in history, not excepting the Japanese, has
experienced so- complete an awakening as have the Filipinos
in this short space of time.
From the first the government has wisely encouraged
the continuance of private schools, to assist in caring for
the vast multitude of children. This makes it possible for
the Protestant denominations which have missions in the
islands to establish seminaries for religious training. Such
schools are turning out a fine class of consecrated young
people, who are carrying the gospel to their own countrymen. A splendid trade school is operated in Manila, and
a normal school that enrolls some 2,000 students. Agricultural schools have been established in several parts of
the country. A first-class high school is located in each of
the forty-nine provincial capitals, and some of these accommodate 3,000 or 4,000 students.




76


Isles of Opportunity


The climax of the whole system of education is the
University of the Philippines, where 6,000 young men and
women are qualifying for positions of usefulness. This
splendid institution is now offering its students courses in
arts, medicine, engineering, law, agriculture, veterinary science, forestry, mining, and business. The present leaders
of the Philippines, including a large number of the legislators themselves, are graduates from this leading university.
The president of the institution and most of the faculty
members are capable Filipinos who have received their
training in the universities of America.
Philippine schools are very similar to our own schools
in the homeland. The subjects taught are almost identical,
though textbooks are adapted to the special needs of the
country. The first four grades form the primary course.
The fifth, sixth, and seventh are termed the intermediate
course, which is intended to prepare the students for high
school.  It is a great source of weakness to the school
system and to the students that there is no eighth grade.
Some schools are now adding this to their course of study,
and it will soon become general throughout the islands.
High school and college courses are the same as in America.
It is to the credit of the Philippines that the industrial
side of education has been strongly emphasized from the
beginning. Among the practical lines of work taught the
students are gardening, basketry, embroidery, and lace-making. The boys also raise poultry, and learn carpentry and
shop work; while the girls acquire skill in sewing, cooking,
and homemaking. This knowledge is of inestimable value
to the people, for it makes them more self-reliant and raises
their standard of living.
It is mainly through education that her American tutors
are making of the Philippines a progressive and cultured
nation. English is rapidly becoming the national tongue of
the islands, being the common tie that unites the different
tribes. The great works of literature and science have been
opened to the Filipinos, who possess keen powers of appreciation. Fully three million of the younger generation now




The W ondeful Changs of a Quarter Centuaf     77
read and write the Engtlish lang e, while only a part of
the older pople still tuse Spanish
Throogh the puhlic scoos, the spirit of democry is
penetrating to every hamlet and barrio. The priniles of
healthful living are beconmin more widely practied. Social
conditions have vastly improved everyw here  The position
of women has been elevated from that of servant to that of
equality with men, tIhough woman's suffrage does not here
prevaril  Filipin gi ls are as good nstdents as the boys and
freqently lead the casses at the university.  ibraries are
Being opened in connection with the schools, so that parents
as well as  hildren may receve the iessings of d  ion.
Happiness and prosperity have become much more general
in every provine.
Bftl the most valuhle and promising frnitage of all f ro
these twenty-five years of sacrifice and labor, is the c racter deveIlpent that has tken place within the Filipino
youth, and the widened outlook th y  ve upon the husy
world of people and events akut them. They are rapidly
adjugti  themselves to their new environment, and finding
the place o  usefulness in the affairs of the world which
God intended they hould cacupyt




13URtON HOLMES! FROM F-WI14 dALLOWW~ "i Yi
Baabo    Mramenwrk Of Rod for a       v NANO Flipioo House
TMe true 1F1libin  house is made eOtiiely switihouf cauis and often WhW
out a   oher toot thou the noifie fists
78
L":~I* ~  E~:..     ulr
Off~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~: Y.




Language, Manners, and Customs


INTERESTING as the history of the Filipino people ha.,
been, yet even more interesting is the study of the people
themselves, their dress, their language, their manners and
customs. To become really well acquainted with them, it
is necessary to break down all barriers and live and mingle
freely with them. By mastering even a portion of their
language, one can much more readily reach their hearts and
learn many intimate things otherwise wholly unknown.
People are the most absorbing subject of study of anything
in the world, and this is particularly true of the Filipinos.
Those who have spent time and effort becoming acquainted
with the people and their ways, have been abundantly repaid by the many valuable and pleasing facts they have discovered by contact with them.
The traveler who hurriedly and superficially tours the
islands, or the resident who spends most of his time in Manila, really knows very little about the Philippines. And
yet many think they are acquainted with the Filipinos and
know all about the country if they have spent a few days
in the capital city. But Manila is not typical of the islands
as a whole. This city has been the center of Spanish and
American influence for three centuries and a half. For this
reason it is a foreign rather than a native city. To be sure,
dialect is spoken by most of the residents of Manila; but intimate contact with foreign peoples for so long a time has
destroyed the distinctive Filipino atmosphere. It is therefore necessary to leave Manila, and visit the inland provincial
districts, to become familiar with real Filipino life as it exists to-day.
Although wonderful progress has been made among the
people during recent years, yet they have not discarded the
picturesque customs and characteristics peculiar to their race.
And they should not allow education along modern lines to
79




80


Isles of Opportunit3


destroy these racial peculiarities. While absorbing what is
valuable and helpful from Western civilization, they should
not neglect to cultivate those desirable traits of character
which are their birthright. It is only as an Oriental people,
uplifted and guided by Western ideals, that they can lead
and serve other Oriental peoples.
Excluding the Mohammedan peoples of the south and
the pagan mountain tribes, the inhabitants of the Philippines
are all very much the same in general characteristics. It is
practically impossible to distinguish one tribe from another
in physical appearance. Customs and dress are very much
the same in all parts of the islands, slight variations only adding color to the picture.
The one great mark of unlikeness among the different
groups is the matter of language. Though all arising from
one mother tongue, the pure Malayan, by isolation the various dialects have become quite dissimilar. Generally the
same in grammatical construction, they differ widely in vocabulary. Cebuans and Panayans can quite readily understand each other, as they are neighboring tribes; but it is
quite impossible for either of these to understand the speech
of the Ilocanos or Pangasinans.
The Bicol people, because of their central position, use
a dialect about half way between the Tagalog and Panayan.
Sometimes the principal difference between two neighboring
dialects is a change of certain letters, or what is called a
sound shift. Usually the smaller Filipino towns are composed of people speaking the same language, but there are
towns where two or even four different dialects are used.
The dialect spoken by the largest number of Filipinos is
the Cebuan, used by approximately two million people. The
Tagalog is spoken by only a very few less. Those who use
the Panayan number something more than a million and a
quarter, while the Ilocanos go slightly beyond the million
mark. Then follow the Bicol, spoken by 750,000; the Samar, 625,000; Pangasinan, 400,000; and Pampango, 350,000.
These, with two or three of smaller number, comprise the
principal language groups of the islands. Most of the in



Latnguage, llannllers, and Customs


81


habitants can understand at least one of the above-named
dialects, and it not infrequently happens that an intelligent
native can converse freely in three or four of them, plus a
considerable knowledge of English and Spanish. Such persons are naturally in demand as interpreters. There are
many modern ideas for which there is no native word, and
in such cases the several tribes have borrowed and adapted
Spanish terms.
The tongue which newcomers to the Philippines generally hear spoken first, is the Tagalog, for this is the language
of the district surrounding Manila. It is the most widely
read and the most highly developed of any of the dialects.
Numerous magazines and newspapers are published in this
tongue, which serve to develop and crystallize it, and transform it into a literary language. Also, it is more complete,
versatile, and beautiful than any other native tongue. An
old Spanish scholar who thoroughly mastered it, says of the
Tagalog that it possesses the mysteries and obscurities of
the Hebrew, the articles and precision of the Greek, the
wealth and elegance of the Latin, and the good breeding,
politeness, and courtesy of the Spanish. However, there
are serious limitations to even the Tagalog, and sometimes
the best translators are unable to express themselves because
the language does not contain the right word with which to
convey the idea.
Though class distinctions are not nearly so marked here
as in India or even Japan, yet they are still a factor of considerable consequence. In the southern islands these differences are gradually being done away, and the people have
become quite democratic since the American occupation. But
in some other parts of the Philippines the various classes still
hold aloof from one another.
The gentlemen, or sefiores, will not associate with the
poor, ignorant tao who lives near the soil. Sometimes even
the middle class will not associate with him, thinking that
their social standing might be lowered and their prestige lost.
It sometimes happens that all the members of one class become Protestant, while the members of all other classes
6




82


Isles of Opportunity


remain Catholic. This condition greatly hinders the work
of evangelizing the islands.
As a rule, it is for the lower classes that Protestant missionaries have been able to do the most, since they are the
most needy. Their ideals and standards of living have been
greatly raised. Slavery has entirely disappeared from the
islands, though wealthy landowners would still practice peonage if they dared defy the government.
Modern public and private education is rapidly creating
another class distinction which may easily become a greater
problem than those of the past. Many of the younger generation feel that their education has lifted them to a higher
level than that of their ignorant fellow townsmen or even
of their relatives. Sometimes young people make themselves
and others miserable upon returning from college, by refusing to associate with those who were formerly their best
friends. Frequently, too, they refuse to lower their dignity
by performing the humble tasks of the home or the farm.
And some parents foolishly allow this attitude to strengthen
by waiting upon these returned students. Many young Filipinos have not yet learned the great value of hard labor
both to themselves and to their country. The Oriental feeling that students are not supposed to do manual labor prevails to a considerable extent in the Philippines.
Alongside this aristocracy of education there is a growing aristocracy of wealth. The American regime has enabled many people of business ability to amass moderate
fortunes, and a large number to become comfortably wealthy.
These two classes have been kept apart by the fact that most
people of education use English, while the wealthy class
use Spanish or a Filipino dialect. There is a tendency, however, for educated young men to choose the daughters of
wealthy men as wives, and thus the two aristocracies are
made to merge.
Educated missionaries are inclined to associate with the
educated class because they find them more congenial, and
with the wealthy because these make larger contributions to
the church. Young educated Filipinos are leaning more and




Languagc, Manners, and Customs


more toward the Protestant churches, with Catholicism still
holding the older and less highly educated people. It is often
through their children that many of the older people are led
to accept the Protestant faith.
The Philippines are divided for convenience of government into forty-nine regular provinces and several special
provinces. A province is further divided into municipalities,
with a town of considerable size at the center of each. One
of these municipalities is chosen as the provincial capital.
A barrio is the smallest unit into which the county is divided,
sometimes containing only a small group o~ houses. There
may be anywhere from six to forty barrios in a municipality,
depending upon its population and extent. The chief man
in a municipality is the presidente, while the head of a village
is the teniente de barrio. Every isolated dwelling is included
in some barrio, even though separated several miles from it.
All citizens must go to the municipality to vote, and
usually do most of their trading there. It is the purpose
of the bureau, of education to establish a school in every
barrio where there are enough children to make this advisable. Many of these villages can be reached only by footpaths, up the beds of streams, over mountains, across rice
fields, and even by boat. But it is in these remote places
that we get our finest glimpse of the life of the natives, for
here they are least influenced by foreign innovations. A
few days spent in one of these barrios with the people will
never be forgotten.
The true Filipino house is made entirely without nails,
and often without any other tool than the native bolo. This
is a heavy knife from eighteen to thirty inches long, with
the handle, and is used for every conceivable purpose, including self-defense. It is the sine qua non of Filipino rural
life. Nearly every man carries one, by the aid of which he
can make almost anything.
The houses are raised on posts from four to ten feet
high, the trunks of standing trees being sometimes used as
supports. The frame of the building is constructed of heavy
bamboo, the different pieces being bound together by bejuco




fiher, wNhich resemwles rattan  The was are made of a
Iihter m   ftikl  alaled gawali or of  mall bamhoo pl
pounded flat   he doors and wiuvwv atre utlly of awgIi
and hung with bejuo iier. f The floor is composed of strips
of hamoo about an inch wide, with a spe tkwiee    them,
i n habied lre b M           a
so that water and dirt can eaily pass through  The roof
of the hous is either of nipa Palm or cogan grass either
of which affords good poftection from the heavy rain  The
houses are built of suchlight material that Wenty or thirty
men can readily car them from place to place   The roof
is Considered the most important Part of a dwelling, and this
1         IisI
more thn two or three ro     the      le ving   ting and
slein in the ame quarters
dt~~~~~~ ai~~             r mfr Iat o pl c~E T r




Language, Manners, and Customs


The furniture in these native homes is very simple, chairs
and tables sometimes being absent. But there are always
benches and clothes boxes or, it may be, a sack of rice to
serve as a seat. If there is no table, the family squat on
the floor for their meals. There are no stoves, the cooking
being done over an open fire. The utensils are mostly of
unpolished earthenware, whether for cooking, washing, or
water carrying. The tin petroleum can has found its way
into many of the native homes, and serves a manifold purpose. The poorer families do not have knives, forks, and
spoons, and in such cases the fingers have to take the place
of all three. But this method of eating is quite effectual.
The country houses are very poorly lighted, one dim
little kerosene lamp suspended from the roof being the best
possible illumination. Reading at night is almost out of the
question. The old reliable Dietz lantern has met with general favor throughout*the islands. Many homes and bull
carts are supplied with them. The people are very fond of
pictures, and many times the walls are covered with them.
In the homes of devout Catholics there is always somewhere
an image.
There are few beds, except in the homes of the more
prosperous, and then they are all of hard woven rattan. At
night the family unroll their mats and spread them anywhere
on the floor. If guests are present, they do the same. A
light cover and two hard pillows for each individual, one
for the head and one under the knees, complete the night's
equipment. The mosquito net is an absolute necessity in
most parts of the islands, to prevent malaria and other diseases transmitted by this universal pest.
After about the tenth night one can sleep fairly well on
the floor, provided his bones are well covered with flesh.
Dogs and roosters are present in countless numbers to make
the night melodious, but after a while these cease to annoy.
The people in the rural districts go to bed early as a rule,
and get up very early, usually about four o'clock. One is
often awakened by the cries of women and boys who pass
along the street selling bread and carabao milk.




86


Isles of Opportunity


The principal article of diet among all the Filipinos is
rice. This is oftenest accompanied by fish, either fresh or
dried. In some localities a relish called bugoong is made by
allowing a certain fish preparation to ferment. It is doubtful if this particular dish would pass the pure food test, but
it does lend to a meal a flavor that is " distinctly individual."
Considerable corn and wheat are consumed in the islands.
The coconut forms the basis of many tasty native dishes,
which must be eaten to be appreciated.
Some beef, with carabao and goat meat, is used, and a
much larger quantity of pork. The Moros never touch the
flesh of the latter animal, and it were well if no one else did;
for in the islands this creature is the general scavenger that
disposes of all manner of filth. Chicken fried in rich coconut oil is often used as an accompaniment for rice. Sardines,
canned salmon, and corned beef are bought when native fish
and meat cannot be obtained. Chocolate and canned milk
are gaining in favor with the people, as are other store goods.
Bananas grow here in great abundance and variety, and
form a staple article of food. The other fruits are oranges,
chicos, lanzones, papayas, breadfruit, jackfruit, pomelos,
guavas, tamarinds, mabolos, santols, custard apples, pineapples, and the delicious mango. The last named is one of
the finest foods given to man, but it is embarrassing to eat
one in public because of its extreme juiciness.
The vegetables most commonly used by the natives are
mongo beans, Spanish peas, sweet potatoes, squash, melons,
pichay, Chinese cabbage, and other greens and tubers found
only in the Orient. Peanuts and pilinuts are extensively
grown. Many of the cooked foods are highly spiced, and
contain generous quantities of garlic and curry.  As a
whole, the Filipinos prepare their food in a very appetizing
way. A native meal prepared according to the best culinary
standards cannot be surpassed in any land.
There are various costumes and modes of dress in vogue
in the islands. The Americans, Spaniards, and other foreigners wear European dress. Men's clothing is ordinarily
of white drill or light Palm Beach. Sun helmets are worn




Language, Manners, and Customs


87


by those unaccustomed to the intense tropical heat. Foreign
women endeavor to conform to the styles advocated in New
York and Paris. Army people and other government and
business circles maintain an exclusive social stratum.
Manila presents at the same time the most modern and
the most primitive styles in clothing. The Chinese and Japanese have preserved largely their own national dress in the
islands. Many Filipinos, both men and women, have adopted
the dress of the Europeans because of its convenience and
usefulness, though many do not find it exactly comfortable.
This change has come as a feature of the general transformation which the islands have experienced.
But on holidays and feast days the natives love to don
their own typical costumes, and rightly so, for these are often
quaint and pretty. The men wear the white drill trousers,
with bright-colored embroidered shirts, or camisas, which
are worn outside the trousers. The native woman wears a
flowing skirt of gay colors, green, red, and blue being the
common choice. The length of the train and the quality of
the cloth depend upon her tastes and means. Corsets are
not yet the fashion, but a chemisette which just covers her
breast, and a starched neckcloth are in common use. To
the chemisette are added immensely wide sleeves. The material used is usually the semi-transparent pifia or jusi cloth,
made from pine and hemp fibers respectively. Her hair is
brushed back from the forehead, without parting, and coiled
into a tight, flat knot. In her hand she carries a fan, without
which she would feel completely lost.
The native woman has an extravagant desire to possess
jewelry, earrings being worn almost universally, with whatever else can be obtained. A tapis is often worn over the
skirt, which may be just a plain rectangular piece of cloth,
or a richly embroidered silk or satin affair.
Philippine women have the custom of walking with a
slouching gait, in striking contrast to the graceful air of
Spanish ladies. The figure of a peasant woman, however,
is erect and stately, due to her habit from infancy of carrying baskets and water jars on her head over a pad of coiled




Isles of Opportunity


cloth. Stockings are not usually a part of the native costume
for either men or women. Chinelas are the footwear generally employed. These are a kind of slipper, flat like a
shoe sole with no heel, and just' enough upper in front to
put the toes inside. These are removed upon entering a
house, in true Oriental fashion. Wooden shoes are sometimes worn for rough outdoor work, but more often the
poorer classes go entirely barefoot.
Cold is not an element to be seriously reckoned with in
the Philippines. The laborer dresses very simply indeed,
two abbreviated garments, and frequently only one, satisfying his needs. Women commonly wear a white mantle
thrown over the head, or carry an oiled-paper umbrella as
protection from the sun. The men wear felt, straw, panama,
or palm-leaf hats, according to their means and purpose.
The Filipinos are a care-free, pleasure-loving people, immensely fond of social gatherings and gala days. There are
holidays and festivals galore. To those which the Philippines
observe in common with America, are added holidays in
honor of local heroes and events, town fiestas, carnivals, and
countless feast days of the Catholic Church. There is Rizal
Day, Bonifacio Day, and Occupation Day.
Each town sets apart one day every year for its annual
fiesta. All the citizens are expected to take part in this celebration, though the priests are always the most prominent
dignitaries. There are parades with floats and banners;
bamboo archways are built along the streets; houses and
public buildings are gaudily decorated. There are musical
entertainments, athletic contests, political speeches, and barbecues. There are always many visitors from adjoining
places, as every town has a different festival day. On the
church holy days, and patron saint days, the church building,
of course, is the center of interest. Scores of booths are constructed about it, where native eatables and knickknacks are
sold. These are very profitable days for the priests, through
the endless fees which they then receive from the people.
Easter is celebrated with great zeal and display, the ceremonies beginning on Thursday and continuing till Sunday.




Lanzguagc, lMannlcrs, and Customs


89


Good Friday is a legal holiday, with every place of business
closed except the Chinese stores. The Chinese observe their
own national holidays with due respect and pomp. At Easter
time the images of Christ, Mary, and the disciples are carried through the streets, accompanied by the priests and
throngs of people. Oftentimes the life of Christ is represented in some public place, but this is usually little more
than mummery. At night one can hear weird and mournful
singing coming from the native houses, as the agonies of the
Saviour are recounted. Another feature of the Easter ceremonies are the flagellantes -- penitents who beat themselves
with cruel scourges until the blood runs down their bodies.
A common practice in the past, the authorities are now putting an end to this brutal custom.
Christmas is always a time of happiness and joyful revelry. For several days before Christmas, one is likely to
be awakened at two or three o'clock in the morning by
strains of the sweetest music. The church engages musicians
for this purpose, and their early morning melodies do indeed
create a feeling of "peace on earth, good will toward men."
This is one of the most beautiful Filipino customs.
Many of the common people are still very superstitious.
In ancient times the objects of reverence and worship were
the anitos, the little images of their ancestors. Now they
are the images of Christian characters, such as the Holy
Child of Cebu, a small image of Christ left here by some
of Magellan's companions. It is still preserved in a special
shrine, where it is worshiped by thousands of people.
Then there is the benevolent Virgin of Antipolo, or as
it is called, Our Lady of Good Voyage and Peace. This
image is thought to have come voluntarily from Mexico for
the special protection of the Spanish Indies. Antipolo is a
town of some four thousand people about twenty miles northeast of Manila. To this place there come for several days
in May each year many thousands of pilgrims from all parts
of the islands. They seek the blessing and healing power of
the Virgin. The inhabitants of the town depend chiefly upon
these visitors for their support, for the country here is moun



90


Isles of Opportunity


tainous and the soil unfit for cultivation. It is estimated that
more than $50,000 is spent in the village during one of these
yearly pilgrimages.
Marriages in the past were usually arranged by the parents of the contracting parties. Much mystery and oratory
were displayed on both sides until it became evident that all
were agreeable to the union. Then the veil was drawn aside,
and negotiations were entered into in a businesslike way.
The young man was required to pay a dowry to the bride's
parents, or where this was lacking, to serve them a certain
number of years as Jacob did Laban. Nowadays young
people are coming more and more to settle this question for
themselves. A wedding is regularly an occasion for feasting
and rejoicing, the display and the banquet provided depending upon the wealth and social position of the family. The
Catholic Church no longer holds a monopoly on the marriage
ceremony, Protestant ministers and civil officers serving the
people at less cost than the priests.
A native funeral is an interesting event to witness once.
The Filipinos accept the presence of death very stoically.
Seldom do the relatives weep until the casket is removed
from the house and started on its way to the place of burial.
Before the burial and for two or three days after, the house
is crowded with relatives and friends. Of course food must
at this time be supplied in abundance. The visitors chat
and joke right merrily, with the intention of lightening as
much as possible the grief of the mourners. Many remain
awake and active all night, with lamps and candles burning
brightly.  The procession is often accompanied to the
cemetery by a band of musicians, who seldom play any but
lively, cheerful airs. "Tipperary " and " Margie " are frequently heard on these occasions.
The holy day known as All Saints' Night falls on November 1. At this time and for several nights following all
the cemeteries are brilliantly lighted, and graves and tombstones decorated with tinsel and flowers. The most costly
display of this kind is seen in the large Cementerio del Norte
of Manila, where electric lights of all colors are employed




Language, Manners, and Customs


91


by thousands. Large sums of money are expended for this
purpose. The whole population is astir on these occasions.
They afford an excellent opportunity for thieves and pickpockets to do their work, as the author has experienced.
The chief sport of the Philippines in the past has been
cock fighting, though boxing is now becoming the national
sport. Nearly every town has its cockpit, to which many
of the people repair every Sunday afternoon. In some cases
a man is really more affectionate toward his rooster than he
is toward his wife and children. Sharp knives like safety
razor blades are attached to the roosters' legs, and they
literally carve one another to pieces. Gambling is widely
practiced in connection with cock fighting and other games.
The principal intoxicating drinks of the natives are tuba,
a liquor made from the sap of certain palms, and basi, made
from sugar cane. Buyo, a product of the betel nut mixed
with leaves and lime, serves in the place of chewing tobacco.
Its effect is similar to that of opium. Tobacco is raised
extensively in the islands, and consumed in cigars and cigarettes. The peasant women are the most numerous users,
rolling the leaf into a crude cigar ten or twelve inches long.
Cabarets, moving-picture theaters, and boxing stadiums
exist in many places, and strongly appeal to the people.
Vices are not universal throughout the country. The
better classes are temperate, and live clean, honest lives. Not
all their customs may appeal to the foreigner; but there
are many things about the people which make them lovable.
Their free hospitality strongly recommends them. They are
loyal in their friendships, most courteous and obliging.
Quick to respond to examples in better living, they are making themselves more attractive to other races, and at the
same time retaining those desirable qualities which are
peculiar to their race.




P
"t:
B;r r:
m
rJ1C;
ri:
13
Ca,
i C4
m
MS2
re M
EEf $
U63
Ca
J 3s
"B.
Ei a,
BOa
111 LB
Og D
 i: ao "
uCE
8
g p
5);nI""
U 96 1,z
cl "L
I D
'li  0,  D
L r
Blll I"
~ srarrs ~-:x~Iilr Ie w
~-1BlllsslzE~-: u  s                                                                u wr pa
ol
i:sgI
i";""" ""II?
rrrra I
SEII..?L"'"'...; '.~i"'" "j O DI
g7t8Eililian""'
A~rl"lF
I, D
~~: iir:i
 LI 8)
V)
=r
cg       (Li::i: AP "
Cli L
tll$E C) QI
c, 4Ji:f I
~"i!
C, 1"
tcr rst
sils
4CI
"
r, I
cr
a: "
r t"
rrt b?
L
$ I
cg
 tl
I 0,
E 
1 a
P Ci
" ii:?a
Lb




Methods of Travel in the Philippines
THE Old Testament prophecy that in the last days many
would run to and fro has been signally fulfilled in the
Philippine Islands. This was not true to any large extent
during Spanish times, for there were very few good roads
and almost no comfortable means of conveyance. To be
sure, the Spaniards constructed a few roads to connect
several of the more important sections of the country. But
the use to which these were subjected, lack of repairs, and
severe storms have practically blotted out all traces of them.
The natives were compelled to build at forced labor massive
stone and concrete bridges in many places. Though seldom
used for traffic to-day, these old structures still stand as
mute witnesses to the attempts of the Spaniards to unite
the country by means of highways.
Some effort was put forth also to provide other facilities
for travel and communication, such as irregular steamboat
service between the larger islands, a few short submarine
cables, and a most remarkably inefficient postal system. Any
one was extremely fortunate who received a letter at all,
written either from a foreign country or even from another
part of the islands. The few interisland boats which were
operated were fit for little else than carrying rough cargo.
They were small, dirty, and very uncomfortable. And all
other methods of travel throughout the islands were equally
painful and annoying.
When the American government took over the islands,
revolution had already existed for several years, and what
communications Spain had provided were entirely broken
off. The failure of the Filipinos by their own efforts to
win their independence from Spain was largely due to their
great lack of unity. And this lack of unity in turn was due
to the very meager means of communication which they
93




94


Isles of Opportunity


possessed. One of the first matters to which the Americans
gave attention was the establishing of adequate facilities for
connecting all parts of the country. There are still many
sections of the country that are not reached with these facilities, and where the people travel and communicate as they
have for centuries. But the most important and productive
districts are now reached by roads, steamboats, mails, and
telegraphs. There are very few villages that do not receive
mails once or twice a week. Modern inventions have not by
any means destroyed all the primitive ideas of the people,
and it is extremely interesting to see how they respond to
new conditions. Let us see how they have been influenced
by the improved means of travel.
Until the opening of the twentieth century, the general
population of the Philippines were not given to travel. The
sons of the few wealthy families frequently traveled in
Europe, thus putting themselves in touch with the world
and acquiring new ideas. But the average Filipino seldom
got very far from the place where he was born. Of course,
he had very little money to use for travel, and there were
few vehicles to carry him far. But he saw no good reason
for traveling, as he loved his old home too well to leave it
for long, and was unwilling to run the risk of moving to a
new and unknown place. Besides, the people living in a
neighboring district might speak a different dialect, and
be decidedly unfriendly.
For these reasons there was little moving about from
place to place. And even after some good roads were built,
they fell into disuse because the people had not yet caught
the traveling fever. Children were born, grew up, raised
a family of their own, and died, all within the narrow confines of their local community. Consequently the people did
not learn new ways of living from the outside world, and
generation followed generation without making any noticeable contribution to the progress of the country.
But all this has changed. An entirely new spirit now
pervades the Philippines. The twentieth century rush has
seized the East. To-day one cannot enter a public convey



Methods of Travel in the Philippines


95


ance of any kind that is not already well filled with people.
As in America, one wonders where all the people come from
and are going, and where they get the money to pay their
way. The Filipinos have certainly learned the use for which
trains, steamers, and automobiles were intended, and they
know how to fill these conveyances to the limit of their
capacity. No vehicle is ever so full but that there is room
for a few more. A corner can always be found somewhere
for an extra bag, basket, or baby. And it seems that every
passenger has a generous number of all three.
One's first experience on a Philippine train lives long in
his memory, especially if it is his lot to travel third class.
Because a third-class ticket is inexpensive, missionaries
generally take advantage of this economy. You might as
well throw away your pride before you start; for if you do,
your dignity will be spared many a jolt.
The railroads are run according to the British colonial
system, with different coaches for different classes of passengers. In Japan there are three grades of passengers and
cars, called respectively first, second, and third class. Firstclass coaches compare very favorably with the ordinary
American passenger car. The second class is considerably
less clean and convenient, and the third class still more uncomfortable and uninviting.
In the Philippines we have but two classes, the first and
the third. Third-class tickets cost but one half as much
as first, and consequently the great mass of the people travel
third class. We use the word " mass " here quite advisedly,
for almost every train is crowded to its capacity. The ordinary car is not very large, and yet the railroad company
guarantees seating accommodations for 150 passengers in
each. The people themselves are small, and each seat is
supposed to provide for three adults. These seats are made
of hard, uncushioned wood, and are of such construction
that they fit no human anatomy that has ever been created.
But the passengers themselves are only a part of the
story. A view of the variety and quantity of the effects
they take along with them is entertaining and enlightening.




96


Isles of Opportunity


Suitcases and traveling bags are almost wholly unknown, but
there are a multitude of other ways to transport one's possessions. Among these might be mentioned baskets, blankets,
bags, boxes, tubs, pails, maletas, and tampipis, all of which
may be seen in great profusion. There is usually such a
jam of humanity at the doors, that most of the baggage is
admitted and ejected through the windows. This method
of loading and unloading is surely a wonderful saver of
time.
The baggage fills every available nook and corner, the
platforms, the aisles, and all the space under the seats. It
consists of many fearful and wonderful things, baskets of
fish, fruit, and other foods, boxes and bags of clothing,
cooking utensils, tools, bundles of nipa, sugar cane, coconuts, live chickens, and fighting roosters.
The passengers keep up an incessant chatter, speaking
usually in high, sharp voices. Smoking is freely allowed
in every car, and there are no rules against spitting on the
floors. The floor also receives all the refuse from the perpetual eating, egg shells, fruit parings, and the like. Whenever the train stops for a few moments at a station, venders
of all sorts of native eatables assault the windows of the
cars. Fruits, eggs, rice cakes, and soggy sweetmeats are
available for a few centavos. There is a constant chorus
of "tinapay, tubig, suman, sorbete, balot, limonada, sarsaparilya, calamay-hati." These are the native names for
the various articles of food.  The balot is a common
and highly-prized lunch for travelers. It is an egg that has
been incubated to within two or three days of hatching,
and then cooked. The author understands that this a very
succulent and substantial kind of nourishment, though he
cannot speak from experience in eating it. This method
of preparing the humble egg for admission into the human
stomach is reported to have been invented by the Chinese.
It is needless to say that third-class travel never becomes
monotonous, some new revelation always being forthcoming.
The monotony is especially relieved when an old peasant
women sits down in the same seat with you with a basket




Methods of Travel in the Philippines


97


of dried fish or a bundle of garlic in her lap. The traveler
is always sure to get his money's worth.
First-class passengers fare considerably better. The cars
are commodious and clean, and provided with comfortable
seats. They are never crowded, because of the double cost
of first-class travel. The windows must be kept open because of the heat, and during the dry season great clouds
of dust fill the cars. But otherwise one cannot complain
of the accommodations, except that the railway track is uneven and the trains run slowly and stop often. The engineer must frequently slow down the train to allow a leisurely
herd of carabao safely to clear the right of way.  The
Manila Railroad operates two well-equipped trains, the
Baguio Express and the Bicol Express, running north and
south respectively from Manila. This line is approximately
350 miles long, with Manila about at its center. The run
either north or south requires about eight hours for the
fastest trains.  Either trip is well worth taking, if the
weather is neither too wet nor too dry, for there is some
fine scenery along each route.
The line extending north from Manila passes through
the great central plain of Luzon. After leaving the city
the train at once plunges into vast stretches of rice fields,
which extend for the width of two provinces, and on into
a large sugar cane district. This wide central plain is flanked
on the right by the long Sierra Madre range, and on the left
by the blue-gray line of the Zambales Mountains. The expanse of rice paddies is relieved by many rivers and lagoons,
which the railway crosses upon modern iron and concrete
bridges. There are also to be seen stretches of bamboo
woodland, scores of gigantic, spreading mango trees, and
frequent villages. This fertile section is densely populated,
and all the landowners are prosperous. The rice and sugar
cane of Bulacan and Pampanga provinces are famous.
As the train continues its way northward, there looms
up on the right the massive outline of Mt. Arayat. This
isolated peak is an extinct volcano that rises 5,000 feet
above the surrounding plain. There is an old legend which
7




Isles of Opportunity


relates how all the mountains surrounding Arayat bow in
obeisance to it because of its unique and aloof position.
Soon we pass through Tarlac into the large prosperous
province of Pangasinan, whose landscape is broken here and
there by the foothills of the approaching Cordilleras. At
the northern edge of this province the railway comes out
upon the waters of Lingayen Gulf at Dagupan. From
here we continue on along the coast for another fifty miles
to Bauang, the northern terminus of the railroad, where we
transfer to large autotrucks for the magnificent climb to
Baguio, or for another 200 miles along the China Sea
on the great Manila North Road to the very northern end
of Luzon.   In the short distance between Manila and
Bauang, we have traversed four different language areas,
Tagalog, Pampango, Pangasinan, and Ilocano.
The line extending south from Manila, the route of the
Bicol express, is even more picturesque than the northern
route. For the first forty miles the landscape is rather
monotonous, as one sees only the familiar fields of sugar
cane and rice. But at Calamba, the town now famous as
the birthplace of Rizal, our train comes out upon the western shore of Laguna de Bay. We pass for half an hour
around the southern end of this great fresh-water sea, and
under the overhanging brow of Mt. Makiling. We stop
for a few moments at the town of Los Bafnos, celebrated for
its hot springs and the several colleges of the University
of the Philippines which are located here.
Leaving here the shores of the great lagoon, we
plunge into the very heart of the coconut country. Two
branch rail lines leave the main route at this point,
one passing very near Taal lake and volcano, through the
rich orange district of Batangas province, to the seaport of
that name, which is the market for the finest Filipino ponies.
The other continues along the southern edge of the lake to
the picturesque little city of Pagsanhan, at the foot of the
Sierra Madre.  This town is a very popular resort for
native government officials, being widely known for its
famous waterfalls and gorge, where the visitor may experi



Methods of Travel in the Philippines


ence the thrill of shooting the rapids in a native canoe
manned by expert oarsmen.
As mile after mile unfolds of the main line, we can see
from our car window only the undulating green of interminable coconut groves, with occasional forest-clad peaks
rising above them. We stop a little time at the thriving
town of San Pablo, with its beautiful upland lakes and
brisk coconut industry, then on again through the unending
beauty of the coconut country. On our left rise the stately
slopes of weird Mt. Banahao, whose almost inaccessible
summit is the sanctuary of the fanatical Calorums.
At length we emerge from the dense groves upon the
western shore of Luzon opposite the island of Marinduque.
But not for long. At once our train begins to ascend
through splendidly wooded hills, and almost before we are
aware it has descended to the eastern shore of the island,
which is here quite narrow. The route now lies for many
miles between the shimmering blue sea on the left and
thousands of tall, graceful coconut palms on the right. The
homes of the people may be seen scattered everywhere,
nestling under the quiet shade of the great waving palms.
The people thus live at the very source of their wealth.
Toward the end of our journey, the train swings again
across Luzon, emerging at the coast town of Aloneros, the
southern terminus of the railway.
But this is by no means the southern end of Luzon, for
that lies 175 miles farther on, through the four fine provinces
of the Bicol country. At Aloneros we go on board a trim
little steamer operated by the railway company, and spend
an enjoyable night sailing down Ragay Gulf. In the morning we again find a train awaiting us, on the Bicol extension
of the Manila Railroad. This brings us after an eighty
mile ride to the prosperous hemp towns of Albay, Legaspi,
and Tabaco, all situated at the very foot of the mighty Mt.
Mayon. This southern trip from Manila to Mayon should
be included on any extensive tour of the Philippines.
The southern islands of Panay and Cebu also boast a
modern railway each, but these are much shorter and less




100               ti.    of Opporfuiitt
mportant than the raiay system of which Manila is the
cener.   The guge of all the Phiippine raira       is only
t  e feet tn ncg the        e as hen   of jafa    But the
locomotives used are mostly of efficent mdern types,   pecialy on the   e   n   g south fromi  Manilt where there
are many heavy gra
P'hibiste Usrt Drawn by Cirabaos or Natv  Owen
With te buildtrt of many new enati thesughoat the islands ai the
itrsoemen66ft of the bod ones the automobile is fast replacing the sloe  and more diffiut moe of tira
Not only do the Philippines enjoy the henefit of raiway
travel in a large nume of the provinc      hut 4a  insysem
of automohie     ads is spreing    throughout the country.
Thr    are upwards of twenty thousand automohiles in the
islands, of all kinds, and ued for all Ipurposes  If the Filipino is Wealth- y eu     to own a car at all, he is HW   to
turchase one of the m     expensive makes   The maj
of thye hlser cars are Wned ity As fi icalns antI foig ners 
sw~~irsv~tal~~rnai~i~nf  rd   1  3   1.  i{.KEwfl0ln X ~ wc f sfa~z1X






Mlethods of Travel in the Philippines  101
Of course, Manila provides excellent streets for automobile traffic, but were this method of transportation limited
to the city, the country as a whole would derive little profit
from it. Many of the provinces have built up their own.systems of smooth, durable roads, being encouraged with
financial help from the insular treasury. Large districts
which the railways do not and cannot penetrate, have been
opened up to autotrucks, and their rich resources developed
and marketed. Many Philippine rivers are so swollen and
treacherous during the rainy season, that it is wholly impracticable to try to bridge them. This makes the extension
of the railways very difficult. However, the automobile
has met the emergency, and has provided a cheap and rapid
means of travel. When the rivers are flooded and fording
is impossible, even the heavy trucks are ferried across on
wide bamboo rafts. The river ferries are especially numerous along the Ilocos coast on the Manila North Road.
As with the railway, so also are there lines of automobile
road extending north and south from Manila. The South
Road skirts the shore of Laguna de Bay, and penetrates the
coconut country for 120 miles to the beautiful seacoast
town of Atimonan on the eastern shore of Luzon. This
road has three main branches, that bring the provinces of
Batangas and Cavite and the Pagsanhan district into close
communication with Manila. The North Road leads through
the provinces of Bulacan and Nueva Ecija, then divides
into two branches, one leading over the precipitous and
rocky Caraballo Sur Mountains into the Cagayan valley, a
recent victory of the engineers. The other branch passes
on through Pangasinan, and at the northern limit of the
central plain merges into the Benguet Trail, the magnificent
mountain road that reaches Baguio. Descending west from
the mountains to the shore of the China Sea, it continues
along the western coast for 200 miles to the very northernmost extremity of Luzon.
The Bicol provinces 'of southern Luzon have a welldeveloped system of highways, reaching nearly every important town of that district. A splendid road completely




102             Isles of Opportunity
surrounds Mt. Mayon. An American trucking company,
which owns some ninety large autobusses, operates throughout the whole Bicol country, and is of immense profit both
to the owners and to the people.
After the development of industry and the introduction
of modern machinery, the next great problem of the Philippines is good roads. And this need has been quite adequately
met on all the larger islands of the archipelago. The prosperous island of Cebu has probably the finest roads in the
Philippines, which are also extremely picturesque. There
are enough mountains in all parts of the islands to make
travel by automobile both healthful and delightful. This
is the most satisfactory method of traveling in the country,
and brings one in touch with the finest scenery. Bohol
Island has a first-class road that makes the complete circuit
of its shore line. The sugar-producing island of Negros is
likewise well supplied with good roads. And even the heart
of the great Moro island of Mindanao has been pierced
by these modern arteries of travel.
The Philippine resident is indeed fortunate who happens to own his own conveyance. Business and professional
men and government officials use automobiles freely, but
the missionary seldom enjoys this privilege. Though his
work keeps him constantly traveling, he is in most cases
compelled to use public vehicles, which are always crowded.
The Filipinos, like ourselves, greatly enjoy fast driving,
though they are sufficiently deliberate in most other matters.
The seats of the large busses are filled to overflowing with
people, and the baggage is piled high upon the roof. The
truck thus laden is sometimes driven thirty or forty miles an
hour over rough roads, and sways back and forth most ominously as it plunges along. So many fatal accidents have
occurred on the Manila North Road, that a policeman is now
stationed every mile or so to compel the drivers to obey the
laws. Dogs, pigs, chickens, and sometimes children, of which
the roads are usually full, pay a heavy toll to heedless autoists.
The highways are kept in repair by workmen who are
continually and cheaply employed for their maintenance. A




Mtethods of Travel in the Philippines


103


caminero, or roadman, is stationed on each kilometer * of
roadway, and is responsible for the upkeep of his section.
The road is regularly inspected by the district engineer.
The principal material used in construction is the white
coral rock so abundant along the coasts. When crumbled
fine and packed hard by traffic, this makes an excellent road
bed. But the autoist must wear dark glasses to protect his
eyes from the glaring white of the road before him. The
favorite auto trip is from Manila to Baguio, which can be
made in six or seven hours with a good car.
But the Philippines are essentially a maritime country.
Composed as they are of hundreds of islands, a large part
of the traveling must be done by water. From time immemorial the Filipino Malays have been a sea-faring people.
It was their venturesome courage that first brought their
barangays to the islands many centuries ago. The natives
still ply their small boats between the many islands of the
archipelago.
The smallest of their boats is the "banca," a dugout
canoe resembling those of the American Indian. It ranges
in size from ten to thirty feet, depending upon the size of
the log from which it is made and the purpose for which
it is designed. These boats are frequently, but not always,
provided with bamboo outriggers to give them stability.
Native fishermen use them very skillfully along the coasts,
venturing out where the water is rough and stormy. Hundreds of them can be seen along the shores, both night and
day, usually with two men in each boat, equipped with lantern, lines, and nets.
Bancas large enou'gh to carry a considerable cargo are
dignified by the Spanish name of "casco," and those still
larger by the name of "lorcha." These may be seen in
large numbers on the Pasig River and in the estuaries about
Manila. There are also multitudes of launches and barges
used for carrying copra and other bulky cargoes. As in
China and other Oriental countries, it is not uncommon to
see houseboats on the canals and estuaries, where the people
* A kilometer is about five eighths of g mile,




Cainal i Manila, Filled With Queer-oofed Boats Called   Caseos
Many boats of all sizes are provided with movable r      of sawali or nipa, which fu r ish
adlate shelter from th e elements ihe        is needed."
104




Methods of Travel in the Philippines


105


live, eat, sleep, and work. Many boats of all sizes are provided with movable roofs of sawali or nipa, which furnish
adequate shelter from the elements when such is needed.
Though many steamboats, large and small, now serve the
Philippine trade, yet sailing vessels are still extensively used,
and doubtless will be far into the future. There is no more
beautiful sight on all the oceans than one of these trim little
schooners nosing her way out of harbor toward the open sea.
Of course these vessels are employed almost wholly for interisland travel, as they can no longer compete with the
large ocean steamer on long voyages.
It will be extremely interesting to the reader to know
that the old "Pitcairn" is still in active service.  This
sturdy little vessel, which was used by our faithful missionaries in opening up the Pacific islands to the gospel, is
now owned by a Spanish firm in the Philippines, and passes
frequently in and out of Manila Bay. She has several times
been overhauled and renamed, but her romantic missionary
history still clings to her through the years.
Many of the largest and finest steamship lines send their
vessels to the Philippines, bringing the wares of every land
and taking away in return sugar, hemp, coconut oil, and
tobacco. But there are only five or six ports of entry in
the islands where these large steamers may dock. And the
smaller coast towns must be reached in another way. For
this local trade there are large numbers of small steamboats
and motor ships. These make regular and irregular trips
among the islands everywhere, and do a thriving business
in carrying freight and passengers.
Travel on these boats is subject to the same discomforts
and annoyances that characterize train and autotruck. They
are usually crowded to the limit, and the equipment the
people carry with them when they travel is nondescript indeed. Only the nose that is acquainted with Oriental shipping can appreciate the great variety of smells encountered.
Few of these boats are provided with clean, comfortable
cabins, and if they were, it would be too hot to use them:
often.




106


Isles of Opportunity


Usually the boats have two decks, the upper one for
first-class passengers and the lower one for third. If cabins
are not available, one can often secure first-class deck passage, which is plenty good enough, as every one sleeps out
on deck anyway. Cabins serve only as a place to make one's
toilet. If the sea is calm, a night on deck on an army cot is
a tonic and a delight. If the moon happens to be full, the
voyage is all the more enjoyable. It is worth while to be
awake during the early morning hours, when the Southern
Cross is at its best. This magnificent constellation is not
visible at any point in the North Temperate Zone, and cannot always be seen in the Philippines. The author viewed
it for the first time at three in the morning from a banca
on a lagoon of eastern Luzon.
Another source of delight to the tropical traveler is the
constant play of phosphorescent rays about the keel of the
vessel. A few days spent on an interisland trip will long
remain in the memory. There are inconveniences and discomforts, to be sure, but one expects these, and their presence usually lends an added flavor to the voyage. The one
who grumbles at petty annoyances only betrays his lack of
sportsmanship. The facilities for interisland travel are constantly improving, including better eating and sleeping
accommodations. One steamer now makes the run from
Manila to Cebu in twenty-four hours, and other important
points can be reached in only a few hours more.
Doubtless the most romantic and picturesque of all the
Philippine craft, are the vintas, or praus, used by the Moros
on their countless pirate raids. So efficient and dependable
are these that they have come into general use among other
Filipinos. Thousands of them are used by the Visayans
and Bicols. Some praus are thirty or forty feet long, and
capable of carrying 200 bags of rice. They are driven by
one, and sometimes two, tall, pointed sails. The hull is narrow, and would easily upset in the water, but it is balanced
by a cleverly constructed outrigger. A framework some
thirty or forty feet wide is built over the hull, and this supports the balancing beams, one on either side of the boat.




Methods of Travel in the Philippines


107


These beams are pointed so as to pierce the waves readily,
and they skim over the surface of the water like the wings
of a great sea gull.
These boats are very skillfully managed by the natives,
who use them in traveling long distances. They are light
and swift, and can reach many points wholly inaccessible
to larger vessels. The author has several times made the
passage of San Bernardino Strait in one of these praus.
This is an especially treacherous piece of water, and is
given wide berth by sailors when the weather is at all uncertain.
On one occasion our passage of the strait was decidedly
ill-timed. We reached the narrows just as the powerful
currents from east and west were meeting for their daily
combat. The straits were full of eddies and whirlpools,
with intermittent stretches of sullen, froth-flecked backwater. Two fool-hardy students in a banca went down in
one of the whirlpools, and neither boat nor bodies ever came
to the surface. Our prau was caught in several strong eddies
and spun around in many a giddy circle, but it kept gallantly
afloat and carried us through. The wind was contrary at the
time, which made our position the more perilous and the
work of our men still more difficult. But by skillful tacking
back and forth across the strait, we were finally brought to
our desired haven. These experiences teach the missionary
to have faith in God and respect for the skill and devotion
of the native people.
Another unique characteristic of Philippine travel is the
extensive use of bull carts and carabao carts. The carabao
is the beast of burden for many purposes. He plows the
fields and carries the produce to market. He is patient and
slow, but he accomplishes an amazing amount of work. This
animal is far more powerful than the horse, and can move
an almost unbelievable load on either the heavy two-wheeled
cart or the sledge that is used in the rice swamps. These
rude carabao carts may be seen in constant use on even the
most prominent streets of Manila. It is doubtful if they
will ever be crowded out by more modern means of trans



108


Isles of Opportunity


portation. The northern provinces employ cattle largely in
the place of carabaos. The breed used for work purposes
there is the sturdy zebu from India.
The construction of all bull carts follows the same general plan. They are strong, two-wheeled affairs, with heavy
shafts, spacious body for carrying heavy loads, and arched
nipa roof, so that they resemble the old prairie schooner of
our pioneer West. It is not unusual to meet a train of thirty
or more of these bull carts making their way along the roads
of the northern provinces. The people travel long distances
in them, using them often in their migrations to new homes.
Besides a generous load of produce and household equipment, the owner's whole family accompanies the outfit. The
traveling is done mostly at night, as it is too hot during the
day for either man or beast to travel. The cart is drawn
up beside the road, and travelers spend the hottest part of
the day resting and sleeping.
There are many mountain barrios throughout the islands
that cannot be reached even by carts, and many lowland
barrios that are inaccessible to boats. Frequently the entrance
to a village is the bed of a stream which can be traversed
only during the dry season. The countryman reaches the
outside world on the back of a pony or carabao. His produce
and supplies are transported in the same way, usually in
large baskets, two of these being fastened together and
placed over the animal's back, one hanging on each side.
The missionary must reach many of the native churches
either by banca or on horseback. Sometimes the trail is so
deep and narrow that the knees of the rider dig into the
mud on either side, and his feet plow through the mud
and water underneath. Some of the mountain villages of
the north cannot be reached even with these animals. But
the native Ifugaos and Igorots can scale without difficulty
even the most precipitous mountain side. There are souls
to be won even in these remote and seemingly inaccessible
places., These isolated people appreciate the visit of the missionary more than do those who are on the main-traveled
thoroughfares.




Methods of Travel in the Philippines


109


There is another interesting conveyance that is typical
of the Philippines, which is an inheritance from the Spanish regime. We do not have the jinriksha of Japan or
the sedan chair of China, but we have the quaint, picturesque,
two-wheeled carriage drawn by the small Filipino pony.
This horse was originally brought to the islands from China,
and weighs from 400 to 600 pounds. Small as he is, he
manages to handle a tremendous load.
The commercial pony cart is the carretela, a sort of delivery wagon perched high on two wheels. Goods of every
conceivable kind are carried in these vehicles. One sees six,
eight, or even ten persons riding in one of them, all drawn
by one little pony.
The rig commonly used for carrying passengers is the
carromata, or calesa. This is really nothing more than a
two-wheeled top buggy with rubber tires. It accommodates
two or three persons besides the driver, who sits on an adjustable seat perched over the pony's rump.
These carriages afford cheap and comfortable riding,
and are used in large numbers in Manila and other towns.
The passenger enters the carriage and directs the cochero
by the sign "de mano" if he wishes him to turn to the
right, and by " de cilla " if he wishes him to turn left. All
these vehicles must be licensed the same as an automobile,
and thus furnish considerable revenue for the government.
The Filipinos have retained all the primitive means of
travel and transportation which the past has bequeathed
to them, and are rapidly availing themselves of all the
modern facilities. Even the aeroplane has been brought into
the country, though largely for military purposes. A land
hitherto almost wholly closed to travel is now being opened
up to modern ideas and better ways of living. And under
the providence of God, these new methods of communication and travel are being used to carry the gospel message
into every island of the archipelago. Not only can we now
reach the homes of the people, but we are reaching their
hearts as well, and thousands of them are coming into the
light of God's truth for this time.




Ale CutY bf anM~aiiiii; Vled Fibm Al Mibli
Thii   *     i tU Pg; t ih l; v      h th
ienter of th nity"
1-1
110~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~l~~rv




Manila, the Pearl of the Orient
BY far the largest and most beautiful city in the Philippines is Manila, the capital and metropolis of the archipelago. Not only is it the chief city of the Philippines,
but it is one of the finest cities in the whole East. It is undoubtedly the most modern, and with the possible exception
of Bangkok, the most beautiful of all Oriental cities. The
population of Manila is a trifle more than a third of a million, and it is therefore smaller than many of its neighbors.
Both Hongkong and Singapore exceed it in population,
while Japan has a half dozen and China a score of larger centers of population. But in commercial, social, and political
importance, Manila takes second place to none of these. The
Philippines are the outpost of American influence in the Far
East, and this lends tremendous prestige to their capital city.
Furthermore, Manila is the geographical center of the
Orient. Fully one half the world's population live within
two thousand miles of this favored spot. It is easily and
quickly reached by steamer from all the great emporiums of
the East, and is therefore admirably situated for intercourse
and trade with all the many Oriental peoples.
Manila is located on the eastern shore of the bay of the
same name, which lies on the western side of the large
island of Luzon, at about its center. Manila Bay is a magnificent body of water about seven hundred square miles in
extent, nearly circular, and opens on the west to the China
Sea. The entrance to the bay is some twelve miles wide,
being divided into two channels by the high, rocky island
of Corregidor. The immense hidden fortifications on this
island protect the city against hostile intruders, though
Manila has few other defenses of any kind.
Five of the leading Philippine provinces border on
Manila Bay, and several important rivers empty into it.
The largest of these is the Rio Grande de Pampanga, and
111




112


Isles of Opportunity


the most important is the Pasig, which drains the great
inland lake, Laguna de Bay. The entrance at Corregidor
is so wide that the southwest monsoons from the Indian
Ocean sweep into the bay with terrific fury. For this reason
a safe roadstead 350 acres in extent has been provided,
separated from the main waters of the bay by a high concrete wall. Within the protection of this great breakwater
the merchant ships of many nations find a safe anchorage.
Outside the breakwater during fair weather there ride at
anchor a multitude of vessels, mostly freighters, while the
Pasig River is literally covered with lesser shipping. During
the winter months Manila Bay is the assembling place of
the American Asiatic fleet, while its waters are extensive
enough to accommodate all the navies of the world.
Not only is Manila the geographical center of the Orient,
but it is also the natural center and outlet for all the Philippines. Only recently have other cities become ports of entry
for world trade. But the capital has the advantage in nearly
every respect. It lies at the center of the largest and most
populous island, and is easily accessible to five of the leading
language areas.  It is the natural shipping point for the
products of the great central plain and for the extensive
coconut lands lying to the south. Small vessels plying on
the Pasig, Pampanga, and other rivers deliver their cargoes
at the warehouses of Manila.  Scores of other ships that
have gathered rich stores along the coasts of many islands
bring these wares to the capital city for transshipment.
Manila is also the center of the most complete system of
railways and automobile roads in the islands.  It is only
logical, therefore, that the social, political, industrial, educational, and religious interests of all the Filipinos should
center in this city.
Manila receives its name from   a native plant which
formerly was very abundant in the vicinity. It is probable
that the town was originally established by the Tagalogs
(people of the rivers) as a trading station with the Chinese,
whose heavily laden junks entered Manila Bay at an early
date. But at the time of the arrival of the first European




Manila, the Pearl of the Oriuent


113


explorers, Manila was the 'northernmost settlement of the
ambitious Mohammedans. The city lay along the shore of
the bay on the southern bank of the Pasig River, and was
surrounded by a high wooden stockade. It was defended
by a few rude cannon which the Portuguese had taught the
inhabitants to use. The large Tagalog town of Tondo stood
on the opposite bank of the Pasig. As far back as historical
records go, a considerable number of Chinese were living
here, and friendly relations seemed to exist among all three
elements of the population.
The country around Manila is rather flat and uninteresting. There are mountains on three sides of the city, but
at a distance of thirty or forty miles. The nearest of these
is the Tagaytay range crossing Cavite and Laguna provinces
to the south. The central section of Manila is only from
four to eight feet above sea level, so that during the rainy
season many of the main streets are flooded.
The first view one gets of Manila from the approaching
steamer is something of a disappointment. The length of
the bay from Corregidor to the cify is twenty-six miles, and
most of this distance has been covered before the city comes
into view. The first sight to meet the eye is the high wireless towers of Cavite; then a few miles farther on, the tops
of Manila's business buildings come into view.
From the deck of a large steamer lying at the piers, one
seems to be looking down upon the city, so low and flat is
its location. It has been difficult to supply the city with
an adequate sewerage system because of this fact. Formerly large areas of land in and about Manila were under
water during several months of the year. But these low
regions have now been filled in, and constitute some of the
finest sections of the city. Handicapped originally by an
unfortunate location as regards altitude, Manila has under
Spanish and American control become an attractive modern
metropolis.
In every other respect, a more admirable location on the
main routes of travel and trade could not be desired. Manila
is the western terminus of several important trans-Pacific
8




114


Isles of Opportunity


steamship lines, and is a regular port of call for many other
lines sending ships to Europe, Australia, and North and
South America. During the early decades of the seventeenth century, this city held the political and commercial
leadership of the entire East.  Her merchants were the
distributors for this half of the world. Through the jealousy and shortsighted policy of the home government,
Manila lost this commercial advantage, and was sunk to
the position of a mean colonial town. But the city is again
coming into its own, and under favorable governmental control, might again become the political, industrial, and moral
center of the Orient.
The Spaniards, upon taking possession of the islands,
did not at once make Manila their capital. Since the archipelago was discovered and entered from the south, the center
of Spanish influence at first was Cebu. But as the conquerors explored and subjected the islands to the north,
Manila and its splendid harbor came naturally into their
hands. Strong Mohammedan settlements had first to be dislodged from Mindoro and Lubang Islands, and even from
the shores of the bay itself, before the city could be taken.
This was finally accomplished, however, without very great
resistance, and the Spaniards at once saw the wisdom of
making Manila the capital and chief city of the Philippines.
Legaspi, the first governor of the islands, moved his
official capital from Cebu to Manila in 1571. An immediate
growth in Spanish power and prestige was the result, both
in the islands and throughout Asia. This was the most important step ever taken by the Spanish government in the
Philippines, in connection with the future development of
the country.  Ever-increasing numbers of natives, with
Spaniards and other foreigners, moved to Manila.
When the Moslem inhabitants of the city, under Rajah
Soliman, saw they could not hope to hold it against the
assaults of the Spaniards, they set fire to the buildings and
fled for their lives. The city as first rebuilt by Legaspi
differed little from the former town. But it was not long
before a number of larger, more substantial buildings were




Manila, the Pearl of the Orient


115


erected, such as the governor's home, residences for the
leading Spanish colonists, a church, a convent for the Augustinian friars, and a few official buildings. These were
further increased in number and size as the prosperity and
prominence of the colony grew. Many of the Spanish officials and landowners became wealthy, and constructed at
the capital many fine homes of varied architectural design.
As Manila grew in commercial importance, shops and
warehouses sprang up in the city. In 1590 the foundations
of the present fortifications were begun. At that time all
the important buildings of the city were inclosed within
the walls, the Filipino soldiers, the Chinese, and the native
population generally being excluded. A part of the town
of Tondo, known as the Parian, was especially set aside
for the Chinese.
The old walled town, familiarly known as Intramuros,
now constitutes only a small section of the city. Modern
Manila has greatly expanded in all directions, far beyond the
dreams of its Spanish founders. At the north end of the
walled town, overlooking the Pasig, old Fort Santiago was
early built to protect the city against attack from the river.
It was in this stronghold that Rizal was confined during the
dreary weeks that preceded his execution. The structure
is now used as the headquarters of the Philippine division
of the American Army. 
Toward the close of the eighteenth century, the Philippines were blessed with some really able governors, who
had the welfare of the colony at heart. These encouraged
the agriculture and other industries of the islands, so that
Manila began to draw the attention of the world. The
trade with Mexico was revived, and Manila's merchants
again became prosperous. By 1830 a score or more of large
foreign firms had been allowed to establish themselves in
Manila. The increased trade resulting from this measure
once more filled the harbor-with shipping. A customhouse
was now provided adequate to handle the greatly enlarged
business. With the advent of the steamboat and the opening of the Suez Canal, a further impetus was given to the




116               ilks of Opportinity
trade and growth of Mia.i    A tmnporar check     me with
the great earthqak   of 1863, which destred nearly every
lrNge hulling in the city and killed or. ine l2,52  pf00  pier
But the   s   and impnrtance of Manila did not cease to
grow Until the  i daysr of the evoluLtin checked itsf  delnp
fo.a
ment fnr a time.
After the Cavite revltof 1872, the Spaih anthnrities
became very sspicious and eru1. The nattve eole w re
* *                          _
klACtseattaStr  MauiCt, M ZLashing Smuth
The oytfe  t stre railways Wag begn s t, and toady sseopares
* and factories demand the attention of thousaond atmployees.
seeking every means to shake off the oppressor while the
of   Ral ideas, Manila was at this time the scen  of uch
and most aggressive
Afte the reetutio  of Riwas  in 18960 the city was plaed
ude    mrtial law   ' There we       rmihe      tw      the
auth  fities and the nsutget  oeven  within the city limits.
A   pirit of hate, uncertinty, and dread pervaded the city
for the oremainde   f the ped    of Spani    conrol   Bt
tis clod WAS ifted with* '  the atrival of Dwey's flet in




Manila, the Pearl of the Oriclent


117


the bay on the morning of May 1, 1898. The rotting hulls
of several of the Spanish ships engaged in that battle may
still be seen along the shore south of Manila, mute testimony of a day that is forever gone. On the 13th of August,
in that year, the city capitulated to the American forces, and
since that day the Stars and Stripes have not ceased to wave
over and protect it.
Extensive improvements were at once begun in the city.
But these were not carried out systematically until 1907,
when D. H. Burnham, of Chicago, a noted landscape architect, visited Manila and mapped out a comprehensive plan
for the improving and beautifying of the city. These suggestions became the basis of all the developments that have
been made since that time. In general outline, the Americans
followed plans which the Spaniards had originated, but
which they lacked sufficient energy to press to completion.
The first important undertaking was the improvement
of the harbor. For centuries the port of Manila had remained unprotected from heavy winds and typhoons. Ships
too large to enter the Pasig River were compelled to seek
safe anchorage at Cavite, eight miles away. Ocean-going
steamers lay two miles or more off shore, and transferred
their passengers and freight to lighters, thus exposing them
to great danger during the season of typhoons. The present
splendid port was formed by building a massive concrete
breakwater south from the mouth of the Pasig River. The
space within this inclosure was dredged deep enough to accommodate the largest vessels. The large quantities of mud
thus removed were used for filling up the old moats and
other low places about the city.  The beautiful sunken
gardens west of the Walled City, the palm-girt Malecon
Drive, and that section of Manila known as the Port Area,
were at one time little more than mud flats, which during
the rainy season became veritable lakes.
Three steel and concrete piers were constructed within
the roadstead where the largest steamships on the Pacific
can be docked. A fourth magnificent pier is now nearing
completion, which ranks among the three largest and finest




118


Isles of Opportunity


in the world. This pier is more than 1,200 feet long, two
stories high, and capable of tying up five of the largest
steamers at one time. The piles used in the construction
of this gigantic dock are made of re-enforced concrete, thirty
inches square, and ranging in length from 110 to 165 feet.
Within the port area are found the customhouse, the insular
bureau of supply, and a multitude of warehouses and wholesale establishments.
An increasingly large number of freight and passenger
lines visit Manila every year. It has become popular for
round-the-world tourist ships to spend a few days here.
During a recent year more than eight hundred large vessels
were dispatched from this port.
Within hailing distance from the Manila piers, and at
the southern end of the Walled City, is the world-famed
bayside park known as the Luneta. This is the playground
of the city's thousands. It is the scene of the famous concerts of the Philippines Constabulary band, and of many
other social and political gatherings.  It is here that the
governors-general make their inaugural addresses to the
people.  At the center of the park stands the splendid
monument to Rizal, which marks the spot where that noble
martyr fell in defense of his people's liberty. The Luneta
is flanked on the west by the pounding surf of Manila Bay,
and on the east by the exposition grounds of the Manila
carnival. At one end stands the beautiful and modern
Manila Hotel, the finest in the Orient, and at the opposite
end the richly appointed Elks' and Army and Navy clubs.
This is the favorite gathering place of the foreign residents
on hot tropical nights, who are attracted by the refreshing
sea breezes, and the liquid moonlight which floods the landscape.
Another pressing need of Manila twenty years ago was
a sufficient water supply. The old system provided by the
munificence of the wealthy Carriedo, had become entirely
inadequate. There was no system of sewerage except open
drains and a few stone cloaca, such as were used in ancient
Rome. These discharged into the half-filled moat about the




Manila, the Pearl of the Orient


119


walls and into open estuaries. Thus the health of the inhabitants was constantly menaced.
During the closing decades of Spanish rule, steps had
been taken toward better city planning. A few fine avenues
had been laid out, radiating from the congested center of
the city, the chief of which was the great circling thoroughfare, Paseo Azcarraga. But most of the streets of the city
and its many suburbs were wholly unfit for traffic, being
narrow, crooked, and unpaved.
The commission at once began to remove these handicaps
which prevented Manila from becoming a modern city. An
adequate water supply was provided by damming the
Marikina River twenty-five miles from the bay, the water
thus coming from high in the mountains above all human
habitation. The disposal of waste was made effective in
spite of the low, flat site of the city. Centuries of indolence
and insanitary habits on the part of the inhabitants had to
be overcome. But the citizens now take great pride in keeping their city clean and attractive.
Many new streets were opened up after the American
occupation, and the old ones widened and paved. Extending north from the Pasig as far as the Cementerio del
Norte, is the splendid Avenida Rizal. To the south runs
Taft Avenue, the finest automobile drive in the city. Along
the shore of the bay from the Luneta to old Fort San Antonio
Abad, runs the Dewey Boulevard, overlooking the scene of
Manila's most famous battle. From the Luneta to the Pasig
the traffic passes one way along Padre Burgos Street, and
the other way through the port district over the Malecon
Drive, whose terminus is marked by the monument to good
Governor Anda.
Along the north bank of the Pasig lies the main business
section of the city. The busy thoroughfare, La Escolta,
contains most of the modern, foreign-owned stores. Chinese
and native dealers choose less prominent and less expensive
streets. Breaches have been made in the old walls to allow
new streets to enter, but the noble Spanish gateways have
been preserved, with other valuable parts of the wall.




120


Isles of Opportunity


The Pasig is spanned by three.large bridges, over which
pass continuous streams of traffic. A fourth and larger
bridge is now being planned, to cross the river at its very
mouth, of cantilever construction so as to allow the passage
of ships. The center of the city's business district is Plaza
Goiti, from which radiate thoroughfares to all other districts. Manila is now abundantly supplied with electric
lights, many of the suburbs enjoying the same privileges
as the city itself.
The system of street railways was begun in 1904, and
to-day compares favorably with that of many American
cities. There are two classes of passengers, first and second,
occupying opposite ends of the cars. The fares vary from
eight to twelve centavos. The Pasig River has been dredged
to a depth of eighteen feet for a mile above its mouth, and
to a depth of six feet to Laguna de Bay. Estuaries and
canals, of which there are many, further facilitate transportation by water. Launches and barges penetrate to the very
heart of the city, some sections of which remind one very
strongly of Venice.
Manila is not a compact city, but is spread out rather
awkwardly along both banks of the Pasig, and north and
south along the bay. The most conspicuous feature is the
old Walled City, with its bastioned walls, high church towers,
and balconied houses, preserving unchanged the spirit of
the Middle Ages. The heavy, somber style of its buildings
suggests the dominance of the religious orders.
At the time the Americans took possession of the city,
the chief buildings within the walls were the offices of the
military government, the infantry, cavalry, and artillery
barracks, the general offices of the civil administration, the
archbishop's palace, the cathedral (Roman Byzantine style),
several churches and convents, the college of medicine,
San Juan de Letran, the university, and other colleges and
seminaries. The walls have a circumference of two and
one-half miles, and are pierced by six gates. The new
aquarium, with its representative exhibit of tropical marine
life, stands in front of the Real Gate.  Plaza McKinley




Manlila, the Pearl of the Orient 


121


contains the official buildings of Intramuros, with Fort
Santiago occupying the space between this and the Pasig.
The vast majority of the people of Manila are engaged
in some useful occupation, either with the government
bureaus or in private business. The many stores and factories demand the attention of thousands of employees.
The city contains multitudes of small shops, mainly in the
Chinese quarter, where all kinds of articles are made by
hand. The greatest problem with most of the population
is to keep away the wolf of hunger. There are too many
applicants for the jobs which the city offers, and consequently wages are low. Pitiable indeed are conditions in
the congested districts where the poor people congregate
to avoid high living costs. There is really no middle class
among the people; a few are wealthy, but the great majority
are very poor. As conditions become more settled in the
government, the business activities of the city will expand,
and the people become correspondingly more prosperous.
Not less than twenty thousand people are employed in connection with the shipping industries.
Manila is the educational and religious center of the
Philippines. Taft Avenue is lined with institutions of learning. Here stands the beautiful Rizal Hall, main building
of the University of the Philippines. The many colleges
of this institution are scattered throughout the city and even
in other provinces. At the splendid normal school are some
two thousand young men and women preparing as teachers.
The men of the trade school are qualifying for work of
great commercial value to the country. At the large general
hospital are more than three hundred nurses, both men and
women, who will be ready soon to take up sanitary and
clinical work in all parts of the islands. Twelve other
hospitals in the city also offer thorough courses for nurses.
Among the other educational institutions in Manila are
the National University, the University of Manila, Ateneo
de Manila, the Liceo de Mianila, San Juan de Letran, the
Medical College of San Jose, and three large city high
schools. There are many private seminaries and academies,




122


Isles of Opportunity


conducted by Catholic and Protestant societies. The leading Protestant schools are the Ellenwood Seminary and the
Seventh-day Adventist Manila Junior College. The Jesuits
conduct an efficient Observatory, which receives some
financial assistance from the government. There is also a
moderately large public library, and a well-stocked and quite
complete Philippine Museum. There are four excellent
Y. M. C. A. buildings in different parts of the city, the
finest of these being that of the army and navy. The most
popular social centers are the Casino Espafiol, the Columbia
Club, the Filipino Club, the Elks' Club, and the Army and
Navy Club. The most prominent organizations are the
Masons, the Legionarios, and the various chambers of commerce.
Manila may be called a city of churches, boasting more
than fifty fine edifices. Some of these have been built for
several centuries, the oldest dating from about 1600. Of
course most of these churches belong to Catholic congregations, and are owned by the different religious orders.
Within the Walled City are no less than six large edifices,
the most prominent being the Manila Cathedral. The Byzantine towers of this massive pile rise proudly above all the
surrounding buildings.
There are fine churches in every section of the city, each
drawing to itself great throngs of worshipers.    San
Sebastian is the noblest cathedral outside the Walled City,
and is a magnificent specimen of Gothic architecture.
This beautiful temple was built in Belgium in 1753, and
shipped to the Philippines in sections. Among the churches
belonging to Protestant denominations are St. Mary and St.
John, Episcopal; the Union Church, the Taft Avenue Disciple; the Independent Presbyterian; the Knox Memorial,
Methodist; the Seventh-day Adventist Central, and a half
dozen smaller ones.
Though there are many undesirable sections in Manila,
yet there are many beautiful places also. The streets are
profusely lined with trees in that part of the city south of
the Pasig. East of the Walled City is found the municipal




Manlila, the Pearl of the Orient


123


golf course, and beyond this the delightful botanical gardens. Here is assembled a marvelous collection of trees,
shrubs, and flowering plants, gathered from all parts of the
Philippines and from other lands. Among the beauties of
the vegetation are also found the cages of many wild animals
and birds. At one end of this beautiful park stand the fine
insular cold storage plant and the large Sternberg army
hospital. At the other end are the Manila city hall and the
spacious bureau of printing building.
At the junction of Taft Avenue and Calle Burgos, the
new  legislative building has just been completed.  The
Philippine Legislature formerly held its sessions in the
Ayuntamiento and Intendencia buildings, Intramuros. The
new post office building is to stand at the northern end of
the botanical gardens, overlooking the Pasig. Many of
Manila's avenues afford fine drives in calesa or automobile,
lined as they are on either side by spreading acacia trees
and the homes of the city's best families.
There are a great number of plazas scattered throughout
the city. The residential districts of Ermita, Malate, and
Paco are as attractive and inviting as those of most American
cities, with the added charm of tropical weather the year
round. Those who have lived in Manila for many years,
become so attached to the city that nothing could induce
them  to seek another clime.  The refreshing mountain
climate of Baguio is always waiting when the heat in the
lowlands becomes unbearable.
Such is Manila, the center and metropolis of this sparkling cluster of tropical Eastern isles. Enthroned on the
shore of the beautiful bay that bears her name, she rules
with sure and beneficent hand the many hundreds of islands
scattered about her. To her all the Filipino people look for
leadership. The spirit of Manila is the spirit of the Filipinos. She is their polestar in matters of state, of education,
of industry, of social and moral uplift. And in their pride
and fondness for their capital city, they have given to her
the not undeserved title of " Pearl of the Orient."




Lift: Bld     thsae tIhgzgP Road to  e mouiitais edty of LBaiibe
Rih    The      zigzag road    the                          and in         use
124 '




The Summer Capital in the
Mountains
THERE are few countries in the world that have so great
a profusion and variety of natural beauty spots as do the
Philippines. This sparkling chain of tropical islands fringing the eastern coast of Asia is literally strewn with bits of
scenery that are a never-ending delight to the beholder.
Stretches of blue-green sea flecked with hundreds of jeweled
isles, the inviting palm-bordered and breeze-swept coasts,
the many ranges of superb mountains, sometimes lavishly
clad with forests, and again showing the bare slopes of
towering volcanic peaks, the fertile, well-watered plains, the
myriad bays, lakes, and estuaries, the varied plant and animal
life, the picturesque huts and villages of the people,-all
combine to make the Philippines one of the wonderlands
of the world. One need only visit a few of their many
mountain and valley retreats to be brought irresistibly under
the spell which these islands cast over those who are fortunate enough to sojourn in them.
Let the traveler visit the entrancing island of Palawan,
with its weird yet fascinating mountain grandeur. Let him
leisurely make the circuit of the mighty Mayon, or investigate the wonders of Taal Lale, which has a living volcano
at its center. Let him tour on a comfortable interisland
steamer through the labyrinthine channels of the Visayas,
and complete the voyage with a few weeks relaxation at
exhilarating Camp Keithley, in the upland lake region of
Mindanao. Let him experience the thrill of a day's sail in
a prau that is being driven by a vigorous southwest monsoon. Let him spend a delightful week-end at the charming little city of Pagsanhan, where the dashing streams of
the Sierra Madre meet the placid Laguna de Bay. Let him
wander at will about the old Walled City, or sit and reflect
125




126


Isles of Opportunity


within the somber shadows of some old convent or cathedral.
Or finally, let him travel for a month by foot or on horse
over the myriad native trails of the vast Central Cordilleras,
drinking in the health and inspiration of the mountains, and
feasting upon the surprises which await on every hand the
traveler through this magnificent jumble of hills. Not the
least of the many enjoyments which the Philippines afford
is an extended study of and acquaintance with the island
people themselves.
Many and marvelous as are all these sources of beauty
we have mentioned, yet the most exquisite and fascinating
of all is the splendid mountain city of Baguio, with its environs of oak and pine-clad ranges. This is the Philippine
Garden of the Gods. Located at an elevation of 5,000 feet,
and less than thirty-five miles from the China Sea, this
mountain retreat provides an all-year temperate climate in
the very heart of the stifling tropics. In but a few hours'
time one can ascend over some of the finest automobile roads
in the world, from the oppressive heat of the tropical lowlands to a climate as invigorating as that of the Adirondacks.
This wonderful variety of scenery and climate is the
surest guaranty that Occidental civilization and progress will
remain and thrive in the Philippines. It makes possible
and extremely pleasant the sojourn in the islands of foreign
business men, educators, and missionaries. These carry on
their strenuous labors in all parts of the islands during the
greater part of the year, and then pass a few weeks of exhilarating rest and change in the mountains during the very
hot season.
Baguio may appropriately be called a man-made Switzerland in the heart of the torrid zone. It is a vast landscape
garden, designed by the Creator and improved by man's
efforts. Many world tourists who are competent to judge
have pronounced it one of the most beautiful spots on
earth. Its fame has spread across the Pacific, and those who
visit the islands seldom fail to spend all available time in
this mountain resort. It is not only the playground and
health resort of the Philippines, but it is drawing to itself




Thic Sunliner Capital in the Mountainls


127


the attention of the whole Orient as a wonderland of rest
and recreation. It is not generally appreciated by the Filipino people, who find the high plateaus of the Cordilleras
too cool and airy for their constitutions, but is a source
of endless relief and enjoyment to Philippine residents who
have come from colder climates.
The whole northern portion of Luzon is a land of high
mountain ranges, whose rugged peaks rise fold on fold
across the island from the China Sea on the west to the
mighty Pacific on the east. An adventurous band of Spanish soldiers in the early years of the seventeenth century
ascended the mountains through the cafion of the Aringay
River, and after many days of arduous climbing and numerous engagements with the mountain people, at last reached
the summit of the first range of hills. The magnificent
sight which met their eyes was the lovely, cuplike valley of
Trinidad and the series of gently rolling hills and interspersed valleys which to-day constitute the city of Baguio.
In 1923 the mountain city held an industrial exposition
and carnival to commemorate the 300th anniversary of its
discovery by the Spaniards. How long the sturdy mountaineers had inhabited this upland domain before the white man
came, no one knows. At first they bitterly resented and resisted this intrusion upon their native heath, but repeated
expeditions of the Spanish forces at last brought the region
under a degree of subjection. The government organized the
comandancia of Benguet, with headquarters at Trinidad,
then a large native village four miles from the present site
of Baguio.
There were at that time no roads leading from the lowlands into the mountains, and the few precipitous trails were
difficult and dangerous for either man or horse. For this
reason, very few of the Spaniards were energetic enough
to hazard the trip. The reports brought back to Manila
elicited little response from the authorities, who saw in this
wonderful mountain region nothing to attract their interest
and admiration. They were too intent upon their petty
quarrels and jealousies and the sordid occupation of amass



128


Isles of Opportunity


ing wealth, to comprehend the beauty and;esthetic value of
this glorious realm above the clouds.  It lay within two
hundred miles of Manila, and yet they seemed entirely
oblivious of its existence.
Even before the Philippines changed sovereigns, rumors
of Baguio had reached the ears of American scientists traveling in the islands. These men planned to investigate personally the accuracy of the reports,. but were prevented from
doing so by the approaching turbulent days of the revolution.
One of these scientists, Dean C. Worcester, returned to the
islands in 1899 with the first Philippine Commission. This
able and energetic man was directly responsible for the
present development and fame of the mountain city. His
favorable reports to the War Department at Washington
obtained for the Commission authority and funds to carry
out the project.
The personal interest and attention of Governor Taft
did much toward adding this new city to the Philippines.
When in 1903, overcome by work and the debilitating tropical climate, he asked permission to return to America for
recuperation, it was suggested instead that he find relief in
the nearest possible place. He decided to make the trip to
Baguio, and put to test the reports of the healthfulness
of the mountains. In company with Mr. Worcester, then
Secretary of the Interior, he made the ascent on horseback
from the seacoast of La Union, a distance of thirty-five or
forty miles. A magnificent army horse had been presented
to the governor with which to make the hazardous climb.
Upon reaching the rough cottage which was to be his
official residence during the coming weeks, he immediately
despatched a cable to Washington, telling of his arrival in
the mountains. The governor's weight at that time is said
to have been in the neighborhood of three hundred pounds.
The reply cable from the Secretary of War read: "Referring to telegram from your office of 15th instant, how
is horse?"  The peals of laughter which Mr. Taft let roll
out over the hills upon receiving this telegram, could have
been heard for half a mile.




IThe Slt inlm cr Capital in thec 1Mo nlltais


129


From this time forwarrd, enthusiasm for Baguio and its
marvelous climate increased among all the foreign residents
of the islands. The possibility that an invigorating temperate climate could be reached within a day's journey from
Manila was a challenge to American enterprise and genius.
Men exhausted by years of trying service in the islands, saw
in the opening up of this mountain park a means of restoring their waning health and vigor.
The first great problem that confronted the Commission
was the building of a railway or wagon road into the mountains. Money was therefore appropriated to make the survey. The engineers in charge of this preliminary work
reported that it would be feasible to build a railway up the
cafion of the Bued River from Pangasinan. It would be
necessary first, however, to construct a wagon road for the
purpose of transporting materials. They consequently asked
for $75,000 to be used in constructing this very necessary
wagon road.
This sum was considered quite sufficient to build the
thirty miles of highway between Pozorubio, Pangasinan,
and the future city of Baguio. It was thought that the road
could be completed in a few months without serious difficulty. Little did the engineers in charge dream of the
stupendous obstacles in their way.  For long distances
the roadway had to be cut out of solid rock, making progress
extremely slow and costly. Neither were they acquainted
with the treacherous Bued River, which during a typhoon
sometimes rises fifty feet and carries away everything lying
in its path. More time and larger funds were repeatedly
asked for, until eventually four or five years had elapsed
and more than $2,000,000 had been expended before the
road was completed.
At one time when the highway was finished and in
splendid condition nearly to the head of the canion, a terrific
typhoon swept over northern Luzon. Within twenty-four
hours forty-six inches of water fell at Baguio. The results
of this storm upon the Bued River were sudden and disastrous. The overhanging shoulder of a great mountain
9




130              Isles of Opportunity
gave way and toppled into the river, damming it to a depth
of 150 feet. The tremendous force of water soon broke
through this obstruction, and the havoc wrought in the
cafnon below was enormous. Mile after mile of the newly
built roadway was swept away, together with a number of
fine steel bridges.
But even this defeat did not dampen the ardor of the
constructing engineers. Colonel Kennon, for whom the road
was eventually named, took charge of the work during its
later phases, and under his able direction it was pushed
steadily to completion. He was the first to drive over the
entire road in a wagon and reach Baguio, which he did in
November, 1905. Every mile of road in the cafion itself
had cost as much as the original estimate for the entire
distance. But considering the great difficulties overcome,
even this cost was not excessive.
There was much criticism of the government for spending these large sums of money. But the critics did not
realize the value to the islands of the wonderful region thus
opened up. Baguio is destined to play a very important
part in the lives of the Filipino people. The most common
cause of death in the islands is tuberculosis, a disease that
is never known among the people of Benguet. It is reasonable to expect that those afflicted with this malady in the
lowlands may find relief by going to the mountains, and
experience is proving this assumption true.
The work of road building was largely performed by
poor Filipinos who needed the employment, and thus the
country received double profit from the money expended.
During the first ten years of the trail's history the great bulk
of the traffic was native bull carts, carrying lowland products to the mountains and upland products to the plains.
Even to-day large numbers of these primitive vehicles can
be seen winding their toilsome way along the sweeps and
zigzags of the Benguet Trail. With the advent of the automobile to the Philippines, an efficient truck line was put in
operation to carry freight and passengers to and from
Baguio.




The Summer Capital in the Mountains


131


For scenic beauty and grandeur, this highway cannot be
surpassed by any other in the world. Within the short disstance of twenty miles it rises from sea level to a point one
mile above the sea, traversing, as it ascends, a deep, winding
cafion which is flanked on either side by high, precipitous
mountains. In many places the roadway is literally carved
out of a perpendicular rock cliff. In others it is built up by
solid walls of masonry from the cafion floor.
One crosses not less than twenty-five bridges in making
the ascent, these being placed athwart the gorge in every
conceivable position and angle. Oftentimes they are suspended from overhanging rocks. The speeding automobile
seems to be leaping back and forth from wall to wall of
the cafion, with the wild waters of the Bued forever roaring
and dashing below. Enormous sums of money have been
spent every year to repair the damage caused by the river.
Newer and superior methods of construction have been
used, until to-day the roadway is comparatively safe against
the severest typhoons. Heavy landslides are still a frequent
occurrence, but these can now be removed with comparative
ease and speed.
Toward the upper end of the Bued cafion, about five or
six miles below the outskirts of Baguio, are the famous zigzags of the Benguet Trail. It is by means of these giddy
folds and windings that the road descends from the summit
of the mountains to the abyss below. As the car drops
gradually from the heights, at least six of these parallel
folds are clearly visible at one time. This remarkable section
of the trail can be distinctly seen from the summit of Mt.
Santo Tomas, lying to the west. The highway is surfaced
for its entire length with durable rock, crushed fine, and is
lighted with electricity from Baguio to a point below the
zigzags.
In few places is the roadway wide enough for two automobiles to pass. For this reason, an efficient block system
is in operation, dividing the road into sections three or four
miles long. At each division point is a gate and a telephone
station, in charge of an operator who lives at his post of




132


Isles of Opportunity


duty. These men keel) in constant,touch with all the traffic
up and down the mountain. One's car is frequently held up
at the gates to allow cars to pass in the opposite direction.
A ride over this magnificent highway, either up or down,
is a thrilling experience.
The railroad which was projected to penetrate the mountains and connect Baguio with the northern terminus of the
Manila Railway, was never completed. The line was laid
for perhaps twelve miles and excavating done in some other
places, but the capital of the company that undertook the
enterprise was insufficient to carry the task to completion.
To-day this railway is scarcely needed, because of the excellent automobile service which is maintained in and out
of Baguio over two excellent routes.
Another grandiose project that failed in earlier years
was Aguinaldo's attempt to make Baguio his headquarters.
But the-dangerous, inadequate trails into the highlands made
the location inaccessible. He planned to establish a gun
foundry about half way up the mountains, at a place now
known as The Bells. To obtain metal for the guns, he
ordered that the churches throughout the northern provinces
be ravaged, and the bells collected and carried up the mountains. The Igorots who performed the great labor of this
undertaking were driven to the task at the point of Filipino
rifles. The foundry was never erected, but a large horizontal
steam boiler and a score of the largest bells to-day stand
rusting as a mute memorial of the general's proposed plan.
No sooner had the Benguet Trail reached its destination
and traveling into the highlands been made comfortable, than
there was a rush of Manila residents to secure the best building sites in the city-to-be. Even before the highway was
entirely completed, a few rough cottages had been built for
the benefit of the American government officials. The extensive pine forests provided an abundant supply of lumber,
but the boards must all be sawed by hand. The day of sawmills was yet to dawn in the Cordilleras. So urgent was
the need of houses that the boards were nailed onto the
framework as soon as they were sawed. It is said that after




Tlic SutmmlCr Capital in the Jlountalis  133
they had finished seasoning, a cat could readily negotiate the
cracks between them.
As lumber was absolutely essential to the building of a
city, sawmills were early brought into the hills, small ones
at first, but later mills of modern construction and capable
of large production. It is here that aerial cables are used
in transporting the logs. The logging camp may be located
on one mountain, the sawmill on a second, and the lumber
yard on a third. The pines of Baguio and its environs resemble those of North Carolina or Japan. They are tall and
straight, standing well apart, with abundant grass plots between them. The forests are very carefully guarded, none
but the older trees being surrendered to the lumberman.
And even then every felled tree must be replaced with a
seedling. In this way the invigorating, pine-scented atmosphere of Baguio will be permanently preserved.
After reaching the level of one mile above the sea, the
mountains maintain this height over a wide area. Baguio
is extensively laid out, covering 216 square miles of territory. It is not a plateau, as some suppose, but a series of
gently rolling, pine-covered hills, with many glens and
grottoes between. The city varies in elevation from 4,500
to 5,500 feet. Between Baguio and the China Sea to the
west stands Mt. Santo Tomas, rising to a height of 7,500
feet, the outermost sentinel of the Cordilleras. Behind the
city eastward, each succeeding range rises higher than its
predecessor, until frowning Mt. Pulog is at length reached,
8,900 'feet high. This great peak keeps guard over all the
mountain country.
It is the crests of the many hills of Baguio that have
been chosen as the favorite building sites. The deep gullies
between the hills are damp and less healthful, and usually
cooler than the hilltops, unless they are accessible to warm
winds from the plains. Most of the cottages stand on these
elevated positions, surrounded with pines, and connected by
picturesque roads winding through the valleys. Neighbors
can call to one another from hill to hill, but to cross the intervening valley for a visit is a different matter.




134


Isles of Opportunity


The hilltops are always covered with magnificent pines,
which fill the whole region with their refreshing fragrance.
Luxuriant grass abounds everywhere, but not too deep to
prevent hiking and horseback riding.  The ancient and
mysterious footpaths of the mountain people lead in every
direction. There are primitive Igorot villages even within
the confines of the city. There is usually a stream in every
valley, bordered by great tree ferns, which attain a height of
twelve or fifteen feet, and by many other trees, shrubs, and
plants requiring a large amount of water. Orchids and exquisite white lilies thrive during the rainy season.
The climate of Baguio is well-nigh perfect. The average
temperature for the year is about 64~ F., February being
the coolest month. White frost is occasionally seen in the
valleys, and water freezes on the highest hills. The middle
of the day is rather warm, but fires are comfortable both
morning and evening. The pitch-pine wood makes excellent
fuel, and affords both warmth and enjoyment when burned in
a fireplace. The rainy season in the mountains is most delightful, except during typhoons. It begins to rain about
two in the afternoon, and continues until ten at night, when
the stars come out in all their beauty and luster.
When one wakens in the morning, the atmosphere is
crisp and bracing, having been washed clean by the rains of
the night before. The satisfying odor of the glistening pine
needles and of green growing things constantly fills the
nostrils. In the morning the air is as clear as crystal. Peaks
fifty or even seventy-five miles away appear like cameos in
their sharp, clear-cut outlines. Santo Tomas, illuminated
and bathed by the rays of the rising sun, makes a fascinating
and inspiring picture.
Viewed from the summit of one of the many hills, the
whole country presents an exquisite array of blues and
greens.  It is the nearest like America of anything in
the East.  Violets, roses, azaleas, and jack-in-the-pulpit
are found growing wild, together with several kinds of raspberries and huckleberries.  Strawberry plants, imported
from America, bear lusciously and continuously from De



The Sumimer Capital in the Mountains


135


cember to May. The fresh vegetables from the mountain
gardens restore the appetites which have become jaded
by the tame canned goods of the lowlands. In the neighboring valley of Trinidad one may see cabbages and coffee,
bananas and Irish potatoes, planted and flourishing side by
side. Thus Baguio is the common meeting ground of all
that is best in both the temperate and tropical climes.
Baguio is naturally the economic center of all the Benguet Igorot country, and even for the Bontoc and Ifugao
tribes. These people do not raise rice enough for their
own needs, living largely on the camote, or native sweet
potato. At the fine Baguio market, which was built especially for the hill people, they exchange their manufactured
articles or agricultural products for the commodities which
they need from the lowlands. The ancient dog market,
which thrived in former years, has now been abolished by
order of the governor.
On Sunday, the weekly market day for these people, the
market building and its surroundings present a rare picture.
Hundreds of the mountaineers, both men and women, come
in over the myriad trails from the adjoining country, carrying baskets of produce on their backs and heads. These are
mostly packed in larger, stronger baskets to be shipped to
Manila. Scores of picturesque covered bull carts that have
come up from the plains, exchange their rice and coconuts,
fish, chickens, and eggs, for the varied products of the hills.
Vacationists take advantage of the Sunday market, since
prices are higher on other days of the week.
Baguio is easily accessible by trails from all the districts
of the mountain province.  These trails have been constructed at government expense by Igorot workmen who are
expert in this line. Though not intended for wheel vehicles,
they are admirably graded and suitable for travel either on
foot or horseback. They lead back into the interior sometimes for 150 miles. They scale the slopes of the highest
ranges, following now a narrow, knife-like ridge, now
hanging giddily to a perpendicular cliff that overlooks a
yawning gulf below, or descending into a shadowy valley




136


Isles of Opportunity


to rise again into the sunlight of a more distant ridge, but
always leading on into the deeper, more mysterious heart
of the mountain fastnesses.
The most famous of these trails is the one that leads
from Baguio to Bontoc, with a branch trail penetrating the
uncanny depths of the Ifugao country. At intervals of sixteen to twenty miles along this trail, the government maintains comfortable, well-built rest houses, where at moderate
cost the traveler can obtain good food and lodging. Everywhere in these enchanted regions the eye meets wonderful
tropical vegetation, magnificent scenery, strange wild peoples, and the most remarkable terraced mountainsides in the
world. The traveler rarely catches glimpses of the mountain
women. Their eyes are sharper by far than his, and at the
first distant view of the approaching stranger they flee like
deer into the obscurity of the forest. Peace and order have
now become so prevalent in the mountains that it is possible
to, travel almost anywhere with safety.
On one of Baguio's many hills and overlooking a magnificent valley 3,000 feet deep, is Camp John Hay, the vacation ground of the American Army in the Philippines. This
encampment is elegantly laid out, with permanent, well-constructed buildings capable of providing quarters for an entire brigade. Barracks, officers' quarters and clubs, library,
commissary, garages, athletic grounds, wireless station, and
hospital are provided.
The most beautiful feature of this mountain post is the
wonderful amphitheater which stands beside the official residence of the major general. Advantage was here taken of
a natural amphitheater with remarkable acoustic properties.
Man has added what nature left undone, and the result is
a beautiful auditorium,. capable of seating 4,000 people,
throughout which a whisper can readily be heard. It has
been terraced in stone by Igorot workmen, who retained
the trees, ferns, and shrubs originally found there. Neither
words nor photographs can do justice to the place. It is
utilized for religious services, concerts, lectures, and other
public entertainments.




The Sunmmcr Capital in the Moutntainss


137


Many religious organizations have erected their schools
and rest stations about Baguio. On towering Mt. Mirador,
which commands an unexcelled view of the China Sea, the
Jesuits have built a large observatory. The roadway cannot
reach the crest of this hill, but many long series of steps
lead to the buildings at the top. On a neighboring hill the
Dominicans have erected an elaborate monastery and college.
The fine Gothic church at the center of the city is the
gift of the Belgian friars, who also operate schools for both
boys and girls. The students in these schools are trained
in hand as well as mind, and do excellent work in weaving,
wood-carving, and metals.  The large Episcopal school
which Bishop Brent founded for American boys, is located
at Baguio. A Baptist congregation in New Orleans has contributed the sum of $20,000 for the erection of a substantial
Protestant church in the mountains.
Several missionary organizations operating in the islands
have provided rest cottages for their foreign families. One
of the finest locations has been secured by the Seventh-day
Adventist mission near the polo field on Navy Road, where
attractive cottages have been built to accommodate five
families.  The Baptists, Methodists, Presbyterians, and
others are supplying their missionaries with similar facilities.
A period of one month each year is usually granted to these
faithful men and women, to get away from their burdens
and cares of the lowlands, and find rest and relaxation in
the invigorating mountain atmosphere.
There now exists within the limits of Baguio fifty miles
of the finest roads in the Philippines, if not in the world.
These are made of the white sandstone rock so abundant
in the mountains. They are laid out so as to reach with
easy grades every point of interest about the city. One
could not desire more admirable drives than these roads afford. Their gracefully sweeping lines penetrate every valley
and wind about the slopes of every hill. The most prominent of these are North and South Drives, each about five
miles in length, the former crossing an exceptionally deep
cafion over a unique suspension bridge 250 feet long.




138


Isles of Opportunity


An. automobile adds greatly to one's enjoyment of the
mountains, though hiking and horseback riding should by
no means be neglected. Bridle paths are found in countless
numbers, and run through the most delightful places. Competent engineers are in charge of building and repairing
Baguio's roads, with the mountain people serving as laborers.
The average wages paid these men is fifty cents gold a day,
which they consider a liberal income.
The mountain city is now reached by a second highway
coming up from the plains, known as the Naguilian Trail.
This follows the route of the former, easily ascending horse
trail that swung up along the slope of the coast range from
Bauang, the head of the Manila Railway.   It covers a
distance of about thirty-five miles, and takes its name from
a municipality through which it passes. Because of the
nature of the country, the cost of this highway was only a
small fraction of the vast sum expended on the Benguet
Trail, yet it is as wide and as well constructed, and operated
with the same block system.   There is but one bridge
throughout its entire length, which partly accounts for its
small cost. It contains some very picturesque zigzags, and
from many points in it one can catch beautiful glimpses
of the China Sea. At a height of about 2,000 feet, one
begins to feel the cool, bracing mountain air rushing down
to meet him.
Several efficient autotruck lines are operated between
Bauang and Baguio, carrying both freight and passengers
at moderate prices. Much of the traffic from the lowlands,
including mails from Manila, passes over this route, thus
avoiding the heavy tolls of the Benguet Trail.
There are many good mountain roads radiating from
Baguio to places of great interest to the tourist. One of
these leads along precipitous slopes some ten miles to the
cliff which overlooks the Antamok gold mine lying 1,500
feet below. Equipment reaches this mine over aerial cables,
but men must make the arduous climb down the steep side
of a canion. It is well worth the effort, however, as this
is one of the most remarkable gold mines in the world, the




The Summncr Capital in the Mountains


139


ore being taken out of shafts 900 and 1,200 feet underground, and the metal removed by powerful crushers and
chemicals.
Another magnificent trail twelve miles long leads to the
very summit of Mt. Santo Tomas, past the fine civic hospital
that perches on the very edge of a canion, past the muchfrequented Crystal Cave, and the old burying places of the
Igorots. Half of the distance can be covered with an automobile, but the last six miles are difficult climbing, with an
occasional level stretch through groves of tall, stately pines.
There is a commodious rest house at the summit of the
mountain, where good food and warm beds are available.
Sunrise and sunset as seen from this height are glorious
to behold. Lingayen Gulf seems to lie right at one's feet,
with the lowland provinces visible for scores of miles. At
night one can see the lights of Manila, 160 miles away.
An automobile can also climb the Bontoc Trail for a distance of thirty-three miles, ascending from Trinidad valley
to a height of nearly 8,000 feet. At this point is a famous
inn known as Haight's Place, in the oak belt at the very
highest level of the mountains. The scenery in all directions
from this point of vantage is simply marvelous.
There are hundreds of government and privately owned
cottages scattered far and near over the hills, and yet the
accommodations are far from adequate. During the rush
season there are three or four applicants for every cottage.
The cottages of the missionaries are usually furnished, so
that they need take with them to the mountains only clothing,
bedding, and a few incidentals. The month in the hills is
very profitably spent in study, catching up one's reading
and correspondence, abundant outdoor exercise, and recuperating for another year of strenuous labor.




T6errared Ri6ce Melds N ear Danae in a Mountain prodsier
In tse pars of the isans  east fels lie in thr nataal  atet astr
tibated;ut hai ether places, where the ppsaa     ics
agreater all iavalaWe land is put to ae.
140




Trophies of Forest, Lake, and
Seashore
IT can truthfully be said that the Philippines afford a
veritable paradise for both sportsman and scientist. The
country possesses a great wealth of both plant and animal
life. The resident who spends much of his time in Manila
and other coast cities never comes to know the islands at
their best, for nature has a way of concealing her most
beautiful works in obscure places where man must hunt to
find them.
As an example of the hidden beauty of the Philippines,
I will cite one instance. In a remote canion between two
precipitous ridges of the Sierra Madre Mountains, near the
eastern coast of Luzon, is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. There are twin cataracts, the waters
of the mountain river plunging over an abrupt precipice
seventy feet high, and immediately hurled over a second
precipice of equal height. For ages the charm and music
of this waterfall have unceasingly been playing their part
in nature's program; but only recently has its existence become generally known, and then only because two hunters
were venturesome enough to penetrate into the heart of the
mountains.
This section of country is inhabited only by a few
Negritos, and consequently the great beauty of the place
never before came under the observation of any one who
was interested. This attitude of the Filipino people toward
the glorious inheritance nature has bestowed upon their land,
calls to mind the oft-quoted stanza from Gray's "Elegy:"
"Full many a gem of purest ray serene
The dark, unfathomed caves of ocean bear;
Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
141




142


Isles of Opportunity


There are myraids of such beauty spots in mountain,
lake, and river, and a wonderful array of trees and flowers,
animals and birds, fish and other marine life, which the
average person knows nothing about. In the year 1790, two
trim little Spanish ships came to the Philippines with a
company of scientists, whose purpose was to explore all the
coasts, and to study the geography and life of the islands.
Their mission was only partially fulfilled, due to the untimely
death of some of the leaders. But the results of their work
aroused the active interest of other investigators, until to-day
most of the forms of native plant and animal life have been
discovered and classified.
Separated as these islands are from the nearest continent
by 500 miles of sea, one is agreeably surprised at the abundant specimens of life they display. To the devoted efforts
of those early naturalists and their followers, the Philippines
now owe their accurate coast and geodetic survey, their
splendid bureau of science, their colleges of forestry and
mining, and their many excellent books on the fauna and
flora of the country.
The forests alone are a perpetual source of wonder and
delight. There is no doubt that originally the whole surface
of the islands was covered with rich, dense woods. Long
after the Spaniards came, what is now the great central plain
of Bulacan and Pampanga was clothed with heavy forest.
The natives were compelled to cut down these forests to
be used in building Spanish houses and Spanish ships. Two
thirds of the primitive woodland wealth of the islands had
disappeared before the Americans came. Much of the land
where these forests stood has never been put to any other
use, and is a sad commentary indeed on the improvidence
of the past.
The country is now awakening to a sense of the beauty
and value of its sylvas, and is seeking to preserve what remain for the good of those who come after. Many of the
mountains are still covered from base to summit with veritable jungles of tropical vegetation. Rising above the green
of lesser plants and shrubs, stand many stately trees of




Trophies of Forest, Lakc, and Seashore


143


gigantic height, from which come the many rich woods for
which the islands are famous.
In the palace of the governor-general in Manila are great,
heavy tables of rare workmanship which, though ten and
twelve feet in diameter, are made from one solid piece of
narra. Many of the finest of these trees are found in almost
inaccessible places, where it is difficult for the lumberman
to get at them. But in the homes of the wealthy there is
abundant evidence of the many fine cabinet woods which the
Philippines produce.
Fortunate indeed is he who can spend enough time in
the Philippine forests to know and appreciate them. Their
majestic stateliness and magic beauty defy description.
Their changing moods make them seem almost human.
When swept by a hurricane, huge branches come crashing
down and mighty trees thunder to earth, imperiling the life
of him who seeks their shelter. Again in the stillness of a
tropical noon, not a branch or leaf is seen to move. At
times they are vocal with the songs of birds and the ceaseless hum of insects; again they are as silent and breathless
as the tomb.
Words cannot do justice to the endless variety of tree
trunk, leaf, and flower, or to the exquisite drapery of vines,
ferns, and orchids which covers the older forest monarchs.
Little wonder that the weird masses of aerial roots have led
superstitious natives to believe some of these great trees to
be haunted. The ever-changing light and shade bring out
new beauties where one least expects to find them. Variations in altitude and the distribution of moisture produce
endless differences in the trees and plants.
In Mindoro, Palawan, and Mindanao is found tropical
vegetation in its absolute perfection.. In the uplands of
northern Luzon we meet our old friends, the oak and the pine,
while beside them grow strawberries, raspberries, violets,
jack-in-the-pulpit, and many other familiar friends of our
childhood days. For their surpassing beauty, if for no more
practical reason, the forests of the Philippines should be
preserved. In her rugged hills there are also found rich




144


Isles of Opportunity


deposits of gold, copper, coal, and iron, which await but the
industrious hand of man to find and use them.
There have already been discovered and classified nearly
seven thousand species of Philippine plants, the majority of
which bear flowers. Those found in the mountainous regions
are quite distinct from those of the coasts and plains. At a
given altitude very nearly the same plants occur throughout
all parts of the archipelago. The flowers of the higher altitudes closely resemble those of the north temperate zone.
Many of these grow wild, as the violet, azalea, and rose,
while many others have been introduced from foreign countries and made to thrive here. The climate of Baguio is
well adapted to trees and flowers of the temperate zones,
and flower gardens may be found there in great number
and variety. Some of the mountain cottages are literally
surrounded and hidden by great masses of fragrant flowers.
The bureau of forestry has established several fine nurseries
about Baguio, where one can secure seedlings of a large
number of plants and shrubs.
Among the most conspicuous and beautiful of lowland
flowers is the bougainville, which grows to a height of
twenty or more feet, and may completely cover a large
bungalow. The tall, flowering shrub known as hibiscus may
be seen on thousands of lawns, and in this climate blooms
the whole year round. The large bright red or yellow blossoms, set off by the clear dark green of the foliage, afford
a splendid ornament for any landscape.
Another climbing vine frequently seen is the pink or
white cadena de amor, or chain of love. This is widely used
in the making of wreaths and bouquets. Probably the most
fragrant of Philippine flowers are the rare ilang-ilang, from
which some of the'finest perfume is made, and the bewitching dama de noche (lady of the night), which during the
dark hours gently opens its petals and fills the whole atmosphere with its lovely fragrance. Beautiful linden and acacia
trees dot the landscape, and palms are found in great variety.
Bamboo is common throughout the islands and many
coast lands are covered with mangrove forests. Shrubs of




Trophies of Forest, Lake, and Seashlore


145


many kinds, ferns, orchids, lilies, and mosses grow here, the
loveliest of which are in the mountains. One does not find
in the Philippines the dense jungles of most tropical countries, and yet the vegetation is more profuse and luxuriant
than is found anywhere in the temperate zones.
Contrary to the supposition of many casual visitors to
the Philippines, these islands may well be called the land
of birds. These are not usually seen near the towns and
coasts, but the interior and more sparsely peopled districts,
the mountains, the secluded estuaries, and small rocky
islands are often swarming with bird life. We meet here
in the tropics some of our old friends of the north, though
they may display considerable variation in size and color.
Evidently the same white and pearl-gray sea gulls that escorted our liner out of the Golden Gate were waiting to
guide us into Manila Bay. They sweep in easy, graceful
curves about the masts of the ship, and by their friendliness make us feel that we are welcome. Almost anywhere
in the interior one is likely to meet the jolly old crow, who
seems to be equally at home in all parts of the world. He
is the same rakish, mischievous, predatory scoundrel here as
in every other clime.
Though the Filipinos are a race of fishermen, yet a more
expert catcher than man can ever hope to be is the whitethroated kingfisher whose home is in the islands. In the
tall grass of the marshy coast lands, the long-legged, ungainly crane makes its home. While passing through lonely
and remote mountain districts, one frequently hears the
deep, sepulchral call of the hornbill issuing from the recesses
of the forest, but the bird is seldom seen by hunters. It is
known to the natives as the Luzon calao. Closely akin to
the hornbill is the tarictic of the island of Panay. In these
same remote forests it is not uncommon to find flocks of
wild chickens, quail, and pheasants. The most frequently
heard bird call is the staccato note of the bato-bato, a bird
unknown in other countries. A solitary woodcock occasionally darts swiftly across the trail a short distance in front of
the traveler.
10




146


Isles of Opportunity


The mountainous regions of Mindanao are the haunt of
the largest known member of the eagle family. The favorite
prey of this mighty bird are the monkeys that are found
here in large numbers. There is heard an almost human
scream from one of these animals as he is carried away in
powerful talons to be cruelly torn in pieces and devoured
in the top of some lofty tree.
The chief marauders of the lowlands are the marsh
hawk of the coast by day and the ghostly, silent grass owl
by night. The latter makes its nest in the tall cogan grass
of the uncultivated plains, and feeds upon mice, smaller
birds, and rice. The coast regions also possess an abundance of snipe, plover, and moorhen, and jungle fowl have
been observed on many of the smaller islands.
In many parts of the Philippines parrots exist in almost countless numbers, and show a wonderful variety of
colors. Another unusual bird known only in these islands
is the bird of seven colors, as gorgeous as the parrot, but
wholly incapable of flight. It is about the size of an ordinary pigeon. On the island of Luzon is found a peculiarly
colored dove, gray over most of the body, with white breast,
and a brilliant splotch of red in the midst of the white, as
if it had been wounded. A familiar sight in the woodlands
is the black, red-crested woodpecker, battering through the
shell of some old decaying tree. The cuckoo, the weaver,
and the chestnut-headed tailer bird are found in considerable number.
The only real songsters of the islands are the whitetipped blackbirds and the yellow orioles of the upland regions.  The high, rocky cliffs that form the border of
Palawan are literally covered with the nests of swifts, a
small brown variety of sea swallow. These nests are made
from glue secreted from the bird's mouth. They are hard
and transparent when completed, and are used by the Chinese
in soup as we would eat noodles.
A common sight as one travels through the rice lands
by train or truck is a large flock of snowy-white cattle egrets.
These birds stand about eighteen inches high, and are so




Trophies of Forest, Lake, and Seashore


147


named   from  their attachment for cattle and carabaos.
They are most often seen on the backs of these animals,
from which point of vantage they can more readily detect
the frogs and other small creatures that inhabit the rice
fields. They pay the carabaos for their passage by keeping
the animals' backs free from insects.
Oftentimes the surfaces of the smaller islands are completely covered with birds of various kinds. Prominent
among the birds living on these lonely islands are the sober,
voracious old pelican; the mound-building tabon, thousands of
silly, too-tame booby birds; and the great man-of-war bird,
which is sovereign over all three. This last is a powerful,
fish-eating gull that seldom secures its own food, but habitually robs other ocean birds of their catch. Like the stormy
petrel of other latitudes, this bird loves a tempest, and will
sail aloft in the midst of the most terrific typhoon. This
fact has led the natives to believe that it feeds upon the
wind.
All tropical lands are the abode of reptiles in greater
or less profusion and variety. The Philippines seem to
possess their full share of these creatures. The largest of
their snakes is the giant Oriental python, which sometimes
attains a length of more than thirty feet.  There is also
found here a smaller species of the boa constrictor, which
crushes its prey by wrapping powerful coils about it. The
cobra is found in some parts of the islands, but not in large
numbers. Seldom does one hear of a death caused by its
bite. There are a few other poisonous snakes, such as the
mountain viper, and many small, non-poisonous ones.
Some of the smaller islands are alive with crocodiles, and
they are frequently found in the rivers of the larger islands.
It is always dangerous to swim in a river, especially in the
Visayas, and bancas are sometimes overturned and their occupants devoured. An island in San Bernardino Strait contains a small lake where more than five hundred crocodiles
have been counted at one time.
One of the first impressions the visitor gets of the Philippines is the almost unbelievable number of lizards, most




148               <ic of Opparo
variets of  hI  are  ut harmless.fm   The most comon
of these is the little gray  hameleon that lives about our
houses. I can oun1 t about twenty of these on the walls and
screens of my sla as I sit writingi  They are three or
for inces long and are aie to adapt their color to their
meda    surrounin      They   d     ut in their appear
Vie in Zamboanga, Showing Typical Naiv Dwellig
anee during the day, but come out in the eveing ito catec
flies and mosquitosby lam plih   Te   cing with pef
ease to A varnished hardwod eiling.
The rice fields teem With the brilliantly green rice izard,
which growsg from six to bten  hi incheog  There is another
very familiar variety called by foigners the "gecko," because of the hoe, strident sound which it makes    This
reptile lives in trees and about the eave of the hu  is 
said to he poisonous, and frequently attains a length of ix



Trophics of Forest, Lake, and Scashore    149


teen to twenty inches. One of these lizards has been known
to live in the same place for eight years. The loud, croaking sound is produced by the lizard's filling himself full of
air and then ejecting it forcibly.
The naturalist in search of new plant and animal life, to
feed his curiosity, will find in the Philippines an almost
endless variety of beautiful and interesting forms. One
scientist may take special delight in collecting and classifying the thousands of Philippine flowers. Another can occupy
himself a long time with the innumerable shells found everywhere along the coasts. The most beautiful of these are the
mammoth flesh-colored conch shells, from which the native
boatmen make horns that, when blown by a good pair of
lungs, can be heard for miles.
The chambered nautilus, famous for its symmetrical
spiral shell, is abundant on the Pacific side of the islands.
There is also a large, iridescent flat shell, from which the
Moros obtain mother of pearl. One collector has found
eleven hundred different varieties of land snail. It is not
unusual to find sea-turtles that are four or five feet across
the shell. The great variety of bird life irresistibly attracts
both the sportsman and the naturalist.
Another most fascinating and profitable study is the rocks
and minerals of the Philippines. Taal volcano, Mt. Mayon,
and many other mountain formations offer a wealth of
material for the geologist. As fine a collection as one could
wish to assemble are the specimens of the many magnificent
cabinet woods which these islands produce.
Fishing is by far the most generally followed of any
occupation in the Philippines. The native people engage in
this, not through a love of sport, but from grim necessity.
Their very lives are dependent upon this industry. But fishing either in the rivers or in the seas about these islands
holds attractions for the angler rarely found in other parts
of the world. The localities which afford the greatest thrills
for the fisherman are the fringes of the great coral reefs,
where the water suddenly turns from limpid green to the
deepest blue.




150


Isles of Opportunity


Placing one's boat directly over the edge of the reef and
casting the line fifty or a hundred feet out into the open
sea, will result in a multitude of surprises. A great variety
of deep-sea fish haunt the waters that lie beneath the reef's
overhanging edge. One never knows what manner of fish
may next take the hook, and he must be prepared for any
emergency. It may be a thirty-pound pompano, a sixtypound tangingi, or a hundred-pound barracuda, any of which
make fishing with hook and line something more than a
gentle art. None of these fish allow themselves to be gaffed
without a terrific struggle, and the gallant fight they put up
is enough to satisfy the most exacting sportsman. These
and a large number of other smaller varieties furnish much
of the food used by the native people, as their flesh is finegrained and savory. Bass, tuna, mackerel, and many other
well-known varieties of fish are common in Philippine waters.
The natives find very exciting sport in harpooning the
giant rays that come to the surface during certain seasons
of the year. Specimens thirty feet across have been found
near the island of Siquijor. It requires the combined efforts
of several boatfuls of men to land one of these monsters.
It is at best a very dangerous undertaking. The ray is likely
to make tremendous leaps into the air, and many single boats
have thus been capsized and dragged under. The natives
of Siquijor are said to use a three-quarter-inch rope in
catching a certain kind of fish, and when caught, one of
these fish will make a meal for an entire village. Sharks are
plentiful in all the Philippine waters, and are known to have
entered Manila Bay in schools of one thousand and more.
One may not be interested in catching fish, but with a
glass-bottomed boat at his disposal he will never tire of
looking at them as he floats over the wonderful coral reefs
for which the archipelago is famous. Surely there are no
" sea gardens " in any ocean that can excel in fantastic beauty
those of the Philippines. The powerful tropical sun penetrates the marvelously clear sea water to a great depth, revealing aquatic plant and animal life of endlessly varied
forms and exquisite beauty.




Trophies of Forest, Lake, and Seashore


151


Coral of the rarest hues and designs is obtained by diving,
or more easily when fragments are washed ashore by the
waves. One variety of tree coral very closely resembles
ebony or hard rubber, and when polished is used in making
canes and such ornaments as bar pins, watch fobs, and
bracelets. Through the bottom of the boat one may see
within a few moments fish of the most amazing forms and
remarkably bizarre colors. Among these are huge sharks,
enormous rays, great sea turtles, clam shells big enough for
bath tubs, sea urchins, starfish, sea anemones, jellyfish in
great variety, sea fans, and hundreds of other forms of
marine plants and animals.
Attractive and inviting as are the blue-green Philippine
waters with their teeming life, yet one enjoys getting back
on land, where there are many scenes equally inviting. The
snowy coral-sand beaches, with their border of gently waving
palms, welcome the traveler on every hand. Here he may
visit some old deserted Spanish fort that is rapidly being
overrun by rank tropical vegetation. He may gather exquisite orchids and other wild flowers, or for the time being
substitute hunting for fishing. If in the Sulu Sea, he may
visit wonderful bird islands where the feathered folk refuse
to get out of his way, and peck viciously at his legs if he
comes too near.
All these enjoyable experiences may be had without
suffering any discomfort from the climate. Rather, life on
and near the sea brings one in touch with Philippine climate
at its best. From November to March the weather is delightful, except during the midday hours of bright days.
During these months is the most congenial time to tour the
islands and make hunting and fishing expeditions. There
is nothing more enjoyable than to explore the shores of this
picturesque archipelago in a small vessel, sailing or landing
when or where one pleases. With the certainty of fine
weather during the winter months, the nights on deck or on
the shore under the stars are a tonic and a delight. Nothing
will more promptly soothe distraught nerves, restore normal
digestion, and bring back vigorous health, than will such a




I


152              Isles of Opportunity
salt-water trip among the islands. The fresh ocean air is
even more invigorating than the pine-scented atmosphere of
Baguio.
As in America and other countries, the people of the
Philippines are not content to leave their bird and animal
life unmolested.  During certain seasons hunting is carried on very extensively, and wild life is consequently on
the decrease. There are some laws governing the shooting
of game, but strangely there are no penalties provided for
their violation. Great flocks of ducks and snipes frequently
visit the large fresh water lake, Laguna de Bay, and the
marshes of Bataan across the bay from Manila. It is not
unusual for a single hunter to bag as many as fifty of these
birds in one day. The birds visit the Philippines from
Japan, Formosa, Borneo, the Celebes, and other Malaysian
islands. -The numerous species of pigeons and doves are also
rapidly decreasing in numbers. Squabs are one of the most
fastidious of Filipino dishes.
Jungle fowl, the ancestors of all our domestic breeds of
poultry, are to be found throughout the islands, but it is
very difficult to shoot them. Before the most recent eruption of Taal volcano, these fowl were very numerous on the
slopes of that mountain. The larger varieties of hornbill
are used for food whenever they venture out into open country where they can be brought down by the gunner.
Deer are still abundant throughout the archipelago, and
though persistently hunted, they seem to maintain their
numbers undiminished. Probably they are found in greatest
numbers on the mountainous, wooded island of Polillo,
where the people consume large quantities of vension, and
in the dense grassy jungles of Culion Island. In December,
when this grass is dry, the hunters set fire to it, and drive
out the deer into the open spaces where the rifles are waiting. Many hunters go out at night with glaring lanterns,
which attract the deer by their brightness, and the gleaming of the animal's eyes gives the gunner his aim. Many
owls and nighthawks are encountered on these night hunting
expeditions.




Trophics of Forest, Lake, and Seashore


153


Though there are some two million domesticated carabao
in the islands, there are also still a considerable number of
the wild variety. The wild carabao is a formidable antagonist, hard to stop, and a vicious fighter after he is once
wounded. He is usually very wary and difficult to approach.
Hunters are frequently killed by this animal when he is
wounded or enraged.
There is a second animal in the Philippines which may
be reckoned as big game. This is the tamarau, a species of
buffalo which is found nowhere in the world except on the
island of Mindoro. Few indeed are the men who have killed
even a single specimen of this animal, though it is quite
plentiful. Its habitat is the depths of the tropical jungles.
Its color and general appearance are very similar to those
of the carabao, but it is a much smaller and more active
animal.
Tamarau one year old and younger resemble somewhat
a Jersey cow in color. The bulls attack carabaos without
hesitation, and in spite of their own inferior size kill them
with apparent ease. The tamarau is swift and powerful.
When it charges, which it is likely to do on the slightest
provocation, it bores a hole through the dense tropical vegetation, and comes on with the ferocity and recklessness of
a rhinoceros. Woe to the unhappy victim if one of these
charges is pushed home.
These animals are most successfully hunted by picking
up a fresh trail early in the morning along some water course
where they have come to drink during the night, and following it as noiselessly as possible. One is apt to come upon
the game at any moment. Sometimes it is necessary to trail
the quarry five or ten miles, by crawling through underbrush
and wriggling along on the ground, bitten by ants and mosquitoes, torn by thorns and covered with bloodthirsty land
leeches, and then the only reward may be to hear a terrific
crash as the animal plunges into the impenetrable jungle
without giving the pursuer even so much as a glimpse.
The tamarau frequently doubles back on its own trail,
and directs a fierce charge against its pursuers from right




154


Isles of Opportunity


angles. Tamarau cows, when pursued, have a way of passing
their heads under their calves and raising them to a position
between the horns and the neck, where they can be carried
until a place of safety is reached. These are indeed very
interesting animals, but the foolhardy man who attempts to
hunt them without well-laid plans generally makes a fatal
mistake.
In some parts of the Philippines the forests contain vast
herds of wild hogs. These are most numerous in Mindanao,
as the Moro refuses to use them for food. Some of the old
boars attain tremendous size, and are armed with long,
vicious tusks. They are commonly hunted with dogs, and
when brought to bay are killed by the natives with rifle or
spear. These hogs are cleaner by far than the domesticated
breeds, living entirely on fruits and nuts. They bathe in
fresh water whenever they can, and often make beds for
themselves of clean, fresh brush.
They are extremely intelligent animals, with a keen sense
of smell, which makes the approach of the hunter very
difficult. Though huge of bulk and of ungainly proportions,
they steal through the forest with absolute silence. But
after once being disturbed, they make plenty of noise as they
rush away. During that part of the year when food is
abundant, these animals become so fat and heavy that they
cannot run far without being overcome by the heat.
The natives generally consider wild hogs as most delicious eating. A pole is run through the body from end to
end, and the animal roasted over an open fire. The flesh
when prepared in this way is known as lechon. To many
of the natives this is a royal feast, but with the Moros we
must agree that a pig is a pig, however interpreted.
Many of the Philippine lakes and streams abound with
crocodiles of gigantic size. They can sometimes be seen on
sandbars rising out of the sea. These creatures are seldom
disturbed unless they show signs of attacking the natives'
live stock.  In comparatively rare instances do they become man-eaters. Sometimes children play safely in pools
that have large crocodiles lying in plain sight at the bottom,




Trophies of Forest, Lake, and Seashore


155


But there are individual crocodiles of evil reputation,
which have killed numbers of human beings. In a little
pool crossed by a trail in Cagayan Province, ten persons
were pulled down and devoured in three years. Most men
who use the rifle, sooner or later interest themselves in
putting this vile reptile out of the way whenever opportunity
offers.
Separated as they are from the mainland of Asia, the
Philippines do not contain the large, fierce animals of the
Eurasian continent. The forests in some sections are thickly
peopled with monkeys, and the trees swarm with highly
colored parrots, macaos, and cockatoos. But the dangerous
animals usually found in the tropics are conspicuously absent. One can ordinarily travel through the forest with
little fear of molestation.
The islands are peculiarly blessed with a marvelous
beauty of landscape unmarred by the dangers encountered
in other tropical countries. One can spend weeks and months
among the rivers, bays, mountains, and forests of the Philippines, and every succeeding day brings new revelations of
beauty and grandeur in ocean, earth, and sky. In no land
are the color schemes of nature more intricate and wonderful. The more intimately the sojourner becomes acquainted
with the beauty spots of these enchanted islands, the more
loath he becomes to exchange them for a home in another
land. The Philippines are sure to cast their spell over those
who truly know them as they are, a spell which it is neither
easy nor desirable to escape. The inhabitants live in peace
and contentment, enjoying the bounties and delights which
a beneficent Creator has heaped upon them.




2 it




Itinerating in the Provinces


BEAUTIFUL and interesting as are the Philippines, and
important as they are in the industrial life of the Far East,
yet it is with the moral and religious influence which they
wield in this part of the world that we are chiefly concerned
in this volume. Our main interest centers in the great task
of preaching the gospel to the Filipino people, and of training them for a mission of spiritual leadership among the
other peoples of the Orient. In studying the country from
a religious point of view, it is necessary for us also to study
the people themselves, their language, customs, and historical
background.
In the- preceding chapters we have described the physical
features of the islands at considerable length, because of
their great beauty and our strong attraction for them. We
have endeavored to give the reader a picture of the Philippines as the missionary sees them every day. We have
briefly told the story of the people from the time when the
curtain of history first rose upon them down to the present.
Knowing the struggles through which they have passed in
attaining their present height of enlightenment and prosperity, we can more sympathetically and intelligently aid
them in solving the social and religious problems which still
confront them.
One of the most stirring dramas in the history of missions has been enacted in the Philippines, and new acts are
continually being added to this drama. Few peoples have
responded to the call of the gospel with such eagerness and
devotion as have the inhabitants of these islands. Theirs
has almost been a missionary history, though often marred
by the perfidy of those who came to them in the name of
Christ. The one who succeeds in coming closest to the
hearts of the people, and therefore who knows best their
emotions, aspirations, and needs, is the true missionary who
labors unselfishly among them.
157




158


Isles of Opportunity


We have endeavored to view the Philippines through the
eyes of an ambassador of Christ, uninfluenced by bias or
prejudice of any kind. As viewed in the light of the gospel,
the land and its people present a picture that lives forever
in the hearts of those who have come here to live and labor.
In the succeeding chapters we shall tell of the spread of the
gospel in the islands, actual experiences in the lives of the
missionaries, the present mission activities, and the outlook
for the future.
The native evangelists, pastors, and teachers always live
among the people for whom they are working. Many of the
foreign missionaries do the same, especially if they can speak
to the people in the dialects. But others who do not fluently
speak the native tongues, whose work is largely in English,
and who have charge of certain departments of mission work
over large areas, generally live in the coast towns, and reach
the native churches by frequent itinerating trips into the
provinces.
It is not absolutely necessary to learn a dialect in order
to do effective work in the islands, as nearly half of the
people speak English with more or less ability. Of course,
a thorough knowledge of the language greatly adds to one's
usefulness.  Most foreign workers obtain enough of the
dialects to converse quite readily with the people, but not
many attempt to preach in them.
The Filipino young men make excellent interpreters, as
they are quick of thought and possess a natural gift of
oratory. Consequently the missionary who is not a master
of the native tongue is accompanied on his itineraries by a
native interpreter. This may seem at first like a cumbersome arrangement, and it does possess objectionable features, but in many ways it lends an added strength to mission work. Christ commissioned His laborers to go out two
by two, and the native and foreign workers thus intimately
associating can be of great help to each other, and jointly
of great help to the people.
The headquarters of mission work for the whole Philippines are in Manila, and this serves as the base from which




Itinerating in the Provinces


159


all general field men make their trips into the interior. The
archipelago is divided into numerous local missions, to accommodate the different language groups. The centers of
these local fields are in such cities as Iloilo, Cebu, Baguio,
and Albay. Working from these towns as bases, we can
now reach in a short time even the most remote places with
comparative ease.
Every conceivable method of travel must be resorted to
if all the people are to be reached with the gospel. Most of
the native churches on the island of Luzon can be reached
by train or automobile. A few are accessible only in bancas
by river, or by narrow, muddy trails on horseback. During
the rainy season the missionary is sometimes compelled to
take off his shoes, roll up his trousers, and wade. In the
Bicol country the only means of access to a few towns is by
parao, the most picturesque and exciting method of travel
in the islands. One must be prepared both mentally and
physically for many inconveniences and discomforts incident
to provincial travel. But the true missionary never complains, and his love for the people and his desire to minister
to their spiritual needs, make him quite unmindful of petty
annoyances.
But it is foolhardy to take unnecessary risks, and subject
oneself to dangers that can well be avoided. There are many
good artesian wells throughout the islands, and fine mountain springs, but many localities do not possess a safe water
supply. The traveler must then carry his water with him in
canteens, or insist that the local water be boiled, which is
not always possible. Typhoid fever is still rampant in the
islands, and the most common cause is polluted drinking
water. A few drops of iodine added to a quart of water
may kill all the germs, but it is not exactly palatable.
Many of even the more prosperous native homes do not
contain beds, the custom of the people being to sleep on
mats spread on the floor. This is bearable for two or three
nights at a time, but if continued for long becomes wearing
on any one not accustomed to it. The missionary, therefore,
to be prepared, usually carries his bed with him. The hum



160


Isles of Opportunity


ble army cot meets this emergency in an admirable way. It
is light, occupies very little space when folded, and can
quickly be set up and taken down. The Chinese manufacturers are not always honest in the material they put into
these cots, and it is a real misfortune if the canvas rips
from end to end during the night. Under this circumstance
the floor, perforce, must receive the occupant.
Another absolute necessity for provincial travel is a good
mosquito net, for malarial mosquitoes abound in many parts
of the islands, and are very active after ten o'clock at night.
These nets can be obtained cheaply from Chinese dealers.
Very few people in the Philippines risk sleeping without a
mosquitero. Those who do, generally suffer severe consequences. The homes of intelligent Christian people are ordinarily free from vermin, but once in a while these are encountered. It is advisable to give all clothing and baggage
a good sun bath or a scrubbing after returning from a provincial trip.
Good laundry service is rarely to be found in the rural
districts. The hot climate demands the wearing of white
drill clothing rather than darker colors. Khaki is very suitable for travel, but custom looks askance at this for dress
purposes. The missionary must therefore carry with him a
number of white drill or Palm Beach suits. The topee, or
cork helmet, is necessary to protect against the powerful rays
of the tropical sun. Rugged shoes and leather puttees are
often worn to furnish adequate protection for the feet and
legs.
It is well for the missionary to provide himself with a
complete toilet outfit, for though the dear native people provide the best they have, their isolation and poverty deprive
them of many things which to a foreigner seem indispensable.
The hot climate makes frequent bathing imperative, but to
meet this requirement satisfactorily is sometimes embarrassing. One must either plunge into a river and have a
score of little youngsters watch him perform his ablutions,
or stealthily pour a few gourdfuls of water over his anatomy
behind a nipa house. The natives can take a bath very




Itinerating in the Provinces


161


gracefully without removing all the clothing at one time, but
few foreigners have acquired this art.
The Filipinos are the most hospitable people in the world.
In return for spiritual blessings received, they heap upon
the missionary every bounty that their slender means can
afford. No delicacy is considered too good for him. The
choicest native dishes are prepared in his honor, such as
those made from the tender young coconut. Rice, fish, and
bananas frequently constitute the whole menu, but these are
usually very palatable, and a robust appetite makes the meal
a real banquet. Knives, forks, and spoons are not always
to be had, but some of the neighbors are likely to possess
these essentials. Very seldom is one compelled to sit on the
floor and eat with his fingers.
It has been said that the most perfectly educated man is
he who can adapt himself to any environment and feel at
home. The missionary must be able to do this. If he does
not possess the gift of making the native people feel that he
is one with them, his labors are not likely to be very fruitful.
Though he must by all means preserve the quiet dignity that
marks the true servant of God, yet he cannot succeed in his
work for souls if any social or racial barrier separates him
from the people. The natives are usually ready to meet
the missionary more than half way, and it is comparatively
easy to adjust oneself to the conditions in which he finds
himself.
Travel in the Philippines is not always unaccompanied
by dangers. Experience alone will reveal the nature and
variety of these. In harmony with descriptions formerly
read of the Philippines, one at once recalls reports of headhunters, bandits, and bloodthirsty Moros. The truth is that
all three of these are now practically unknown in the islands.
So far as men themselves are concerned, it is now quite safe
to travel anywhere. The few remaining wild men live in
regions where one seldom has occasion to go. The dangers
which exist are caused rather by the elements, and these only
when they are in tempestuous mood. Chief among these are
flood, typhoon, and the treachery of the sea.
11




162


Isles of Opportunity


From June to November the small boats that are continually passing from island to island are liable at any time to
encounter rough water. But one must not shrink from this
danger if he is to minister faithfully to the flock scattered
over the many islands. It is not uncommon for the missionary to be completely drenched by one of the many terrific
downpours of rain. The intense heat makes the wearing of
rainproof clothing unbearable.
During the height of the typhoon season, even the larger
interisland steamers are extremely cautious about putting out
to sea. Sailing schedules are entirely set aside, and travel
is made contingent solely upon weather conditions. Typhoon signals are broadcast, numbered from one to six, depending upon the proximity and the ferocity of the storm.
None but experienced seamen are trusted to navigate the
uncertain sea during this season.
The China Sea is one of the most turbulent and treacherous bodies of water in the world, and this keeps many
of the Philippine waters in agitation. With the first violent signs of an approaching storm, wise captains pilot their
vessels into the nearest protected port. An important voyage may thus be delayed for several days while waiting for
the ocean to become safely navigable. But trying as these
delays often are, they are preferable to throwing oneself upon
the mercy of boisterous winds and waves. One can only
place himself trustingly in the hands of an all-wise Providence, and calmly wait for a more favorable season.
The traveler may be marooned for days on an island, cut
off from home by a wide expanse of raging sea, with not a
boat daring to venture out. Floods may in a few hours so
tear away roads and bridges that travel by train or automobile becomes impossible. An automobile may become
stalled in the middle of a stream that is crossed by fording,
and compelled to wait until enough natives can assemble,
usually by accident, to push it out to the shore. The rafts
used for ferrying vehicles across the deeper, unbridgeable
rivers, sometimes capsize and carry their burdens to the
bottom with them.




Itinerating in the Provinces


163


A company of foreign and native evangelists, with a few
lay members for crew, attempted to cross in a small boat the
twelve-mile channel that separates the island of Polillo from
the mainland of Luzon. Four hours should have been sufficient to make the passage. But the winds were contrary,
and the little boat was driven to and fro for three days without touching the shore on either side where a landing could
be made.   The occupants had provided themselves with
neither food nor water, and this, together with exposure to
the tropical sun, caused great suffering among them. When
a landing was at last made, fervent prayers of gratitude were
offered to God for His deliverance.
During the season of severe storms, it is impossible to
reach some of the coast towns, and many small craft have
gone down in making the attempt. The Philippine coasts
are quite abundantly supplied with lighthouses, but this does
not prevent considerable loss of life among the reckless and
the inexperienced.
The little steamer " Samar," operated by the Manila Railway, makes monthly trips up the eastern coast of Luzon
when weather conditions permit. The greatest known depth
of any ocean is found in the Pacific just east of the Philippines, something more than 32,000 feet. This region is
likely to be swept by storms at almost any season of the year,
making the Pacific side of the islands generally unsafe for
navigating small ships.
In company with two Filipino evangelists, the author once
made this trip on the " Samar " as far north as the island of
Polillo. There is a large, thriving Seventh-day Adventist
congregation on this island. In fact, many of the officials
of the municipality belong to this church, including the president and the head of the schools. We planned to spend a
week or ten days with these brethren, holding revival services. The steamer makes the northern voyage one day and
returns south two days later, so we would be without means
of returning to headquarters by boat unless we should wait
a month until the next voyage. However, we hoped that a
gasoline launch might be secured for the return trip to the




e-URTak HOLMES, FRD EWiNG CALLOWAY, a. Y~
Native Banias, or Caoees, With Outriggers
These craft are hattowed frem s ogs, and the ples prevent them from upsettlng. The ny at the upper ig t is ahaut
so dive fior a eln whih has been thrwn ints the water y a passenger on a steamer.
164




Itinerating in the Provinces


165


railhead. This hope eventually proved to be in vain, as we
discovered by waiting, and we were compelled to shift as
best we could.
After closing our series of meetings on Polillo, ordaining
church officers and holding a baptismal service, we decided
to attempt crossing to the mainland of Luzon in whatever
boat was available. We wished to visit another small company of believers across the channel in the isolated town of
Infanta.
Those twelve miles of intervening water are usually
rough and sullen, and the only boats we could locate on the
island were small and unseaworthy. We finally selected
what seemed to be the safest one of these, a small sailboat
with outrigger, and capable of carrying perhaps eight or ten
people. Taking four of the native brethren for crew and
three or four other passengers besides ourselves, we pushed
off from land. Our boat had not been in the water for a
considerable time, and as it had lain beached on the shore,
the sun had opened seams in it which we did not discover
until we were out quite a distance from shore. The water
was soon pouring in through many openings. It required
the united efforts of all on board to bail this water out as
fast as it poured in. We were still.inside the beautiful
Polillo Bay, and in some places the extensive coral reefs so
common here come very close to the surface. This shallowness of the water gave us heart in our efforts to get the
boat back to land. All were agreed not to risk making the
passage until a more trustworthy boat could be obtained.
After several hours of uncertainty and inquiry, it was
discovered that a Chinese had just completed a larger boat,
which was drawn up on the beach about a mile from the
town. It was four o'clock in the afternoon before the tide
had risen sufficiently to float this boat. It then had to be
fitted out with sail and oars. These were at last provided,
and just at sunset we bade good-by to the brethren and unfurled our sail.
As it happened, we did not need our oars, as a brisk
breeze came up with the setting of the sun. The stars came




166


Isles of Opportunity


out and added their luster to the beauty and sheen of the
phosphorescent water. We united in a song of praise to
God, who had provided us with a safe means of continuing
our journey. True to its traditions, the channel water was
choppy and most of us became seasick, but we safely reached
a promontory of Luzon a little after midnight. We anchored
our boat and went ashore to look for a shelter and a place
to sleep until morning.
As there was not a sign of human habitation anywhere
around, we spread our blankets on the sand of the beach,
and lay down under the protection of the friendly stars.
The beautiful Southern Cross sparkled magnificently just
above the southern horizon. Lulled by the pounding surf
at our feet and by the wind in the mangroves at our heads,
we were soon lost in dreamless slumber. All would have
gone well had it not begun to rain about three in the morning. As there was no other alternative, we drew our blankets
up over our heads and waited for the morning. With the
first break of day we were glad to be on our journey again.
We found the mouth of the river we were seeking, and
against a strong current rowed our heavy boat several miles
up stream to the town of Infanta, thankful for the kind
hospitality of our brethren there.
This company of believers had been won to Christ
through the labors of bookmen, and the people of the town
had heard very little of our message preached orally. The
day was Friday, and after preparing for the Sabbath we
went out to the plaza to speak to all who might assemble.
Seven or eight hundred people came together, and we spoke
to them on God's great love for man in that He sent Jesus
into the world to die, and urged them to prepare to meet the
Saviour who will soon appear again to reveal His salvation.
On the Sabbath we celebrated the ordinances with the believers, and held a beautiful baptismal service. The courage of the brethren was greatly strengthened and their hearts
cheered by our visit.
Upon inquiry it was found that no boat would be available to carry us back south to the railway for more than a




Itinerating in the Provinces


167


fortnight. We were perplexed for some time in regard to
the proper course to follow, as it was imperative that we get
back to other churches that were calling for help.
At length we decided to undertake what only one other
missionary in the islands has ever accomplished, namely, to
cross on foot the trackless ridges of the Sierra Madre to the
head of Laguna de Bay. After much effort we succeeded
in securing three native cargadors and guides who were familiar with the mountains and were willing to cross them.
It meant a wearisome journey of forty miles on foot over a
pathless jumble of saw-tooth mountain ranges. Fortunately
we did not realize how difficult a task we had undertaken
until it was too late to turn back. And our guides were
grimly silent in regard to the matter.
It would be necessary to travel south for some distance
along the coast to a point where the mountains could more
easily be entered. The brethren provided us with a day's
supply of food, and about nine o'clock in the evening we
started. Our first goal was the head of a winding estuary
that lay to the south and on which we could travel for a
considerable distance by banca. Our guides, though heavily
laden with our baggage, set us a very lively pace, and by
eleven o'clock we had covered the first lap of our journey.
We found a small native village at the head of the estuary, and during the two hours that our guides were locating
a boat and a boatman, the three of us caught a little sleep
on the bamboo floor of a primitive schoolhouse. About
one o'clock we were awakened by one of the guides, who
said that the boat was ready for the trip.
It is true that the boat was ready, but the tide surely
was not. Much time was consumed in pushing and lifting
the banca over roots and fallen trees until we reached water
deep enough for rowing. As we were heaving the boat
over an especially large log, two of our number slipped and
plunged headlong into a pool some eight feet deep. We
literally wallowed in the oozy mangrove mud, being coated
with it from head to foot. We had for light a tallow candle
set in the half of a cocoanut shell,




168


Isles of Opportunity


At last the boat ceased to scrape over obstacles, and we
were happily on our way again. We stretched out in the
boat as best we could, and listened to the rhythmical dipping
of the oars. The dark, silent waters were gliding beneath us,
and above were the overhanging branches of the whispering
mangroves, which almost completely shut out our view of
the stars. From the forest depths on either side there came
at intervals the quavering night calls of the wilderness birds.
The spirit of the tropical night and the weirdness of our
surroundings crept irresistibly into our veins.
About four in the morning we began to hear the mournful wail of the sea, and soon our boat glided out into open
water. We dared not venture far upon the tossing deep
until daybreak; so, chancing to find the hut of a fisherman
near the place, we crept inside and lay down for a little more
sleep. While we were sleeping, the tide came in and, picking
up our boat from its light moorings, carried it more than a
mile up the estuary.
The music of the multitude of birds in the forest that
morning was a delight to the ear. They seemed to be singing from every tree, and the air was vibrant with their songs
as they welcomed the morn and us. We regretted that we
could not remain longer and enjoy the beauties of this quiet
spot. But our boatmen had now recovered the banca, and
were eager to be on their way. So bidding farewell to our
fisherman host, we set out again along the coast to the south.
A frowning stretch of vile water lay before us.
Navigating the wave-beaten edge of the Pacific in a sixteen-foot banca, without an outrigger, and carrying eight
men and 200 pounds of baggage, was our absorbing pastime
that Sunday morning. For safety's sake we kept well outside
of the line of crashing breakers. We got some fine photographs of the Sierra Madres from the sea, but these were
afterward ruined, as well as our cameras. It seemed, as we
rounded a high, rocky promontory, that surely our little boat
would be engulfed by the great waves that came boiling up
from the uneven ocean floor. But our dependable oarsmen
somehow kept us afloat while we prayed.




Itinerating in the Provinces


169


We were truly glad when the guides finally signaled for
us to turn in toward the shore. A stretch of peaceful, palmbordered beach lay before us, with the blue and green mountains rising ridge upon ridge in the background. But to get
safely beyond that foaming line of breakers was a difficult
problem. We tried to pass the danger point between two
successive waves, but the boat proved too unwieldy for the
oarsmen to handle quickly. A great, booming wave broke
squarely upon us, and our boat and all its contents went
down in about twelve feet of water. We never did understand how the guides managed to get the baggage ashore,
so concerned were we about getting ashore ourselves.
We spent most of the forenoon drying out our baggage
and the clothes we had on, before beginning the arduous
ascent of the mountains.  The shore rocks here are of
igneous origin and were covered with living shellfish of every
description. We would fain have spent the day in gathering
shells, but of course we could not. Magnificent, heavily
laden coconut groves stood on every hand, but few were the
men who lived near enough to enjoy them. An occasional
rude hut could be seen along the shore, but the natives here
are of a very low order, and so shy and wild that we seldom
caught a glimpse of them. They could understand no dialect that any of us spoke.
A little before noon our guides strapped our heavy baggage on their backs and heads, and our journey over the
mountains began in earnest. We were amazed at the ease
with which our 110-pound cargadors shouldered seventy or
eighty pounds of equipment apiece and made off with it up
the steepest slopes. They traveled at a pace which it was
impossible for us preachers to equal empty-handed.
We kept to the highest ridges, which were generally most
free from trees and vines and where progress was most
rapid. We rose step by step on these ridges, with frequent
intermittent descents into deep, narrow valleys, until the summit was at last reached, between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above
sea level. Our position afforded us an exquisite view of the
Pacific and the myriad glittering islands upon its bosom.




170               lie of Opportunity
Within the limits of the mountains we crsed twentysix streams severa of which were shotlder eepas we waded
thronugh them.   If we chanced to step on a slippery stone
while crssing, the result was usually an inrvoluntlry  ath.
To the inexperienerl eve tlere was bahsluftely no trail, ut
our gidges were never in doubt for an instant as to where
again we would  i    an almt pereneula slopeto descend into another cafion upon reachingk the top.
For six hours of the first day the ai fell is  ly
and the weather was terrifically hot  We drank huge quantites of water from the mountain streamsg and thrt e it all
We stumled ove vines and the ajrled roots of  tre and
hruised our feet on the sharp stoes But our idefaigahle
guides kept ever ahead of us. Our hodies ached in every
joint.
This mountainon regio  s farY alive with lnd leeces
which hang to the hushes along the trail and catch hold of
the c    lothing of hWi Who Passes, The nativs call these Cre-io




Itinerating in the Provinces


171


tures limatiks. Very slender when they first attach themselves to your flesh, they swell to enormous proportions as
they feast upon your lifeblood. One does not feel them at
work while sucking his blood, but the wound which they
leave is painful in the extreme. We carried pieces of soap
in our hands continually, and after crossing every stream
would cover our clothing with lather from the waist down
to prevent the leeches from catching firm hold. As it was,
our limbs became covered with wounds and were greatly
swollen at the end of the journey.
The scenery in these mountains is superb. Rocks, canons, and dashing streams, gigantic trees and lovely flowering
plants, all add their beauty to the enchanting scene. We
passed within sound of the splendid twin waterfall described
in the previous chapter, but our aching bodies prevented us
from attempting to get a nearer view of it. Deer, wild
hogs, wild chickens, and a great variety of birds were many
times encountered. For thirty miles we saw never a trace
of human habitation, though we met a few cargadors traveling toward the place from which we had come.
We camped one night in the very heart of the mountains.
With their bolos our guides built a rude shelter of branches
between the foot of a steep precipice and a roaring
mountain stream. The cool, eddying pool in which we
plunged for a refreshing bath would have been fruitful
grounds for fishermen. We ate the last of our food before
lying down to sleep. We kept our camp fire burning all night,
for we did not know what visitors we might have. We
sought also to dry out our wet clothing during the night.
We lay down so close to the blaze that our blankets
caught fire, and the repeated burning of our feet at last
roused us from sleep. One of the Filipino brethren had
hung his clothing on a slanting pole over the fire. When the
garments became dry, they slid down the pole and caught
fire, thus setting fire to our blankets. When the brother
looked around for his shirt in the morning, all he could find
was the collar buttons. He was compelled to make the rest
of the journey somewhat inadequately clad.




172


Isles of Opportunity


The second day in the mountains was even more strenuous than the first, as we had no food and every member of
the party was nearly exhausted. The cargador who carried
the heaviest burden suffered least of all. About three in the
afternoon we began to see signs of human life, and an hour
or two later we reached the town of Siniluan at the foot of
the mountains. Here we paid off our faithful burden bearers, and secured two rickety carretelas to carry us the remaining twelve miles over atrocious roads to the little city of Pagsanhan. We reached this town late at night, completely exhausted in body, but very thankful that the arduous journey
was over. Never did a bed seem more comfortable, howbeit
hard, and never did food seem more palatable. Appetite long
denied makes up for lost time. Pagsanhan is at the head of
one of the branch railway lines, and only a few hours from
here put us back in Manila.
One's own home and one's own family seem dearer to
him after returning from these wearing provincial trips. But
the earnest missionary cannot long enjoy these blessings, as
the needs of the flock repeatedly call him away. After a
short period of recuperation, he is off again for another tour
of the field. For only through self-denial and devotion to
duty can the gospel be brought into all the remote and difficult places. A life of comfort and idleness cannot fulfill the
commission of the Master to carry His work to completion.
It is a hardship to both the missionary and his family to
be so often and so long separated. But all should understand
that this condition is a necessary accompaniment of mission
life. And all should feel themselves abundantly repaid for
their sacrifices by seeing large numbers of the dear native
people turning from the darkness and despair of sin to the
glorious light of the gospel. The missionary has occasion
to witness many miracles wrought in the lives of the people.
He lives with them in their homes and knows intimately the
terrible struggles through which they pass, in putting off the
evils of their past lives. He pleads with them, instructs
them, cheers them, prays with them, and comforts them in
their sorrows. He must be ready to respond to every call,




Itinerating in the Provinces


173


and be tireless in his ministrations. But he has the joy of
seeing the word of God bear fruit in these lives, as the people
respond to the labors of love that are prompted and strengthened by the Holy Spirit.
The native congregations usually meet in simple chapels
built of bamboo, which is the cheapest and most easily obtained material. Sometimes there is no other floor than the
bare earth itself, and the seats are nothing more than crude
benches. But as the work of missions expands, the native
believers become more self-reliant and aggressive, and neat,
substantial chapels are springing up in many places as monuments to the power of God's word. The people manifest
greater zeal in beautifying these houses of worship than in
improving their own homes. The believers become more
confident and determined as they realize that they are a part
of a great world-wide movement. It is inspiring to think
that in every land there are men and women who know the
same sin-pardoning Saviour, and are proclaiming the same
message of His soon return.
The activities of the missionary on his circuit of the
churches are strenuous and varied. He never leaves a company of believers without conducting one or more revival
meetings among them. Tears often roll down the faces of
the people as they gain new victories in Christ, and offer
themselves in renewed consecration to Him. The gospel in
its simplicity always reaches their hearts, and it refreshes
one's soul to listen to their testimonies of gratitude and
praise.
There are usually some new believers to be buried in
baptism, for the members bear faithful witness to the truth
even in the face of bitter persecution, thus becoming active
missionaries themselves. The communion service is frequently held on these visits, and the church firmly established
in its relation to the organized work. The members are
taught how best to labor for their neighbors in order to
win them to Christ's side.
It may be that some of the younger members desire to
be united in marriage. The ordained pastor is always pre



174


Isles of Opportunity


pared to perform this ceremony, carrying the necessary documents with him. In the Philippines it is not required, to
secure a license. On the testimony of two witnesses, the
pastor unites the couple in marriage, and himself issues the
certificate, giving one copy to the parties concerned and filing
another with the municipal secretary. A native wedding may
be very simple or very elaborate, depending upon the means
and tastes of the family. With devoted Christians it is usually simple, but very sacred.
The visits of the missionary are always a great blessing
to the believers, and usually awaken new interests throughout the whole community. Some towns are rarely visited
by foreigners, and when one comes, he never fails to secure
an audience. The people come to hear out of curiosity,
respect, and real interest.
These gatherings are generally held in the open, and if
the speaker is equipped with a stereopticon, he hangs his
screen in a public place large enough to accommodate the
crowd that is sure to assemble. Many are not permanently
impressed by the messages given, but there are always a few
honest hearts in which the seed of truth takes root. The
people long remember the missionary's visit, talking about
it for many months after he is gone. And these experiences are long cherished in his own heart. He knows a warm
welcome awaits him if ever he should pay them a second
visit.
If his work is of a general nature, the missionary may
be called into any part of the islands. His itinerary may
carry him to the very extremity of the great North Road,
or by mountain trail into the heart of the Igorot country.
It may include the thriving towns of the great central plain.
It may take him through the verdant expanse of the rich
coconut country, and on into the fair Bicol provinces. His
journeyings may be among the beautiful Visayas by trim
little interisland steamer. Or he may tour the Sulu Islands
and the northern districts of Mindanao. Wherever the people are calling for light, thither his heaven-appointed mission
leads him.




Itinerating in the Provinces


175


The missionary gains an access to the homes and hearts
of the people impossible to the traveler with another mission. He is everywhere recognized as the ambassador of
Christ, and though the powers of evil are ever at hand to
destroy the fruits of his labor, yet he is continually blazing
his trail a little farther, and reaching new places on his errand
of peace. He gains an intimate knowledge of the islands and
their people, reaching as he does so many localities. His
heart and mind being in tune with the Creator, he revels in
the beauties and wonders of nature that everywhere greet
him. He comes to know the Philippines as they appear with
the favor of God resting upon them. His own faith is
strengthened and his soul enlarged, as he beholds the work
of grace in the hearts of the people. Though there may arise
within him an occasional longing for his homeland and the
scenes and associates of his youth, yet the stronger emotion
is always sure to predominate,-the great love which has
grown up within him for the people for whom he labors.
The pleasure, honor, and riches of the world have no
attraction for him who has seen souls born into the kingdom
of God through the yielding of his own life forces. He is
not willing to exchange this heaven-born joy for the sordid
proffers of a dying world. Though for the sake of health
he may spend some months in his native land, it no longer
seems like home to him, and his heart yearns to be back again
in the distant land across the sea where his duty as a soldier of the cross sumnons him.
May these few scenes from, the life of an itinerant missionary in the Philippines inspire the reader with an unconquerable desire to lay himself upon the altar for a wider
and nobler service for God.




_              A Prayer Meeting in the PhipelsiandW   s
At these  athe     the house are often so esoied shat some s t IO       The fos being maite of biamioo slats, aid
like lah it    iibl for         t      o hearall hat i saJis
176




The Response of the Philippines to
the Gospel
THE very foundation of any nation's greatness is necessarily the sound moral and religious life of its people. No
matter how favored the land may be geographically, or how
rich its natural resources, it cannot become great and prosperous without this underlying moral soundness. Progress
in every field of endeavor, and increased influence among
surrounding peoples, are impossible without high social and
religious standards. These standards to-day are far too low
in even the most cultured and enlightened lands; and correspondingly lower among peoples that are still engulfed in
heathenism and all its degrading practices.
The rigorous climate of high northern and southern latitudes is conducive to sound moral living, but the mild climate and easy life of the tropics tend to a corresponding
laxity in morals. It is in these tropical regions that nature
is witnessed in her most luxuriant moods. Here are displayed the beauties of mountain, sea, and vegetation in manifold and magnificent forms. But amid all these wonders
and bounties of nature, the one great defect that mars the
scene is man himself. It is in these warm, bright lands near
the equator that the human race has sunk to its lowest depths
of ignorance, immorality, and alienation from God. He who
knows these lands intimately from years of life and labor in
them, is constrained to exclaim with the poet:
"What though the spicy breezes blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle;
Though every prospect pleases, and only man is vile;
In vain with lavish kindness the gifts of God are strown;
The heathen in his blindness, bows down to wood and
stone."
The gospel of Jesus Christ has made little headway in
many of these lands, since the people think that other reli12                                    177




178


Isles of Opportunity


gions offer an easier way to obtain salvation. Then again
the hot, unhealthful climate has discouraged the coming of
missionaries from northern Christian countries. But the
gospel of the kingdom must be proclaimed in all these lands,
no matter how difficult the task; and in most of them the
teachings of Christ are gradually gaining followers. Most
of these countries were originally colonized by Europeans
for the purposes of trade and gain, and for this reason the
mercenary spirit of foreign control has crowded out the
missionary spirit. The people have not been permitted to
gain a view of Christianity in its perfectness, and consequently they have had little desire to change their ancestral
beliefs and ceremonies for the purer doctrines of Jesus.
But the Philippine Islands present a striking contrast to
other lands lying within the tropics. These were not colonized by the Spaniards for the sole purpose of gain. It was
with a desire to extend the conquests of the " church" that
the old Spanish priests and seamen came to the islands in the
sixteenth century. It was the dream and ambition of those
zealous Catholic missionaries to win all the peoples of the
East to the faith of Catholicism. They hoped to accomplish this stupendous task by working from the Philippines
as a base. Little did they realize the true spirit of the Orient, and the immensity of the program they had undertaken.
The great lands of India, China, and Japan were eager
for the trade of the European, but they decidedly did not
want his religion. Repeatedly did the various religious orders send their chosen representatives into these heathen
lands, but seldom did they receive a warm welcome from the
natives. In several instances the friars were seized and put
to death. However, missionary enterprises have been continued in these lands with increasing fervor up to the present time, but only a very small part of their people have as
yet been Christianized.
But not so in the Philippines. Civilization has won most
remarkable victories in these islands. Among all tropical
and previously pagan races, the Filipinos stand unique for
having accepted Christian civilization almost en masse.




The Response of the Philippines to tle Gospel 179


With the exception of less than one million Moslems and
pagan mountain peoples, the twelve million inhabitants of
the islands to-day are at least nominally Christian. This
would seem in a measure to have prepared the way for acceptance of Christianity's vital truths and principles.
The Philippines have presented and are still presenting
many wonderful examples of genuine conversion. Were
this not true, the new religion could not so rapidly and so
completely have gained possession of the islands. For few
people are so stupid as to accept something that has no hold
upon their hearts, no claim to their obedience, or no practical application to their daily lives.
Christianity has changed greatly the lives of the Filipinos. It has raised woman to a higher position than she
occupies in any other Oriental land. The standards of the
people have been raised as regards morality, honesty, and
temperance. Their horizons have been widened, their valuation of life enhanced, and their thought and literature enriched.
The foremost mark of Christianity's superiority over
other religions is the high value it places upon the individual. In his changed environment the native found himself
to be really somebody amid the powerful forces of nature
which he had before feared. He now saw himself the master and not the victim of these forces, and this realization
worked a wonderful transformation in his thoughts and
ideals, and created in him an unconquerable desire to improve his condition in every possible way. Christianity is
the source and foundation of every true reform, and it is
acceptance of its teachings that has entirely changed the
condition and outlook of the Filipino people.
When the Philippines changed sovereigns in 1898, the
wholesome seeds of democracy at once began to bear fruit.
Intolerance could not thrive in this atmosphere, and the
word of God ceased to be a forbidden book. Almost immediately an agency of the British and Foreign Bible Society
was established in Manila, which a few years later was replaced by the American Bible Society.




180


Isles of Opportunity


The latter organization is doing a noble work in supplying the Scriptures to the various language groups.
Though tremendous obstacles stood in the way, translators
at once began the task of turning the Bible into the native
dialects. This task had intentionally never been undertaken
by the friars, with the exception of certain quotations used
in the catechisms. And the people had been unable to read
the Scriptures in Spanish. But now, under the guiding
hand of Providence, the work of translation is going forward rapidly.
The Bible Society's first achievement was the Bagong
Tipan, or Tagalog New Testament. As the natives acquired
more English and the missionaries acquired the dialects,
they united their efforts in producing accurate and understandable translations in many tongues. There are twenty
Filipino dialects spoken by more than 30,000 people each,
and these twenty may be regarded as the legitimate goal of
the translators. The whole Bible may now be secured in the
dialects for as little as one peso. As the truths of the Scriptures are brought to the attention of the people, there is
created a great demand for the book itself, and colporteurs
have placed thousands of copies in the homes of the people.
Until the great earthquake of 1923, all the vernacular
Bibles for the Philippines were printed in Japan. But all
the valuable plates were destroyed at that time, and the printing is now being done in Manila from entirely new plates.
The Bible Society took advantage of what seemed to be a
grave disaster, and revised the translations in several of the
dialects.
This unlocking of the Scriptures and making them accessible to all the people, has been by far the greatest factor
in transforming the Philippines from an obscure province of
reactionary Spain into a democratic, enlightened, liberty-loving country. And the Filipinos have responded to the drawing power of the gospel, and accepted the vital teachings of
the Scriptures as few other peoples of the world have done.
The American occupation threw the country wide open,
so that Protestant missions could at once enter upon the




'The Responsc of the Philippines to the Gospel  181


work of evangelization. The time was ripe for a great work
to be done in instructing the people in the real truths of the
gospel. Many Protestant organizations now took advantage
of the open door in the Philippines, and scarcely had a stable
government been established before the missionaries were
arriving in considerable numbers. Even before they came,
army chaplains had opened Sunday schools for the native
children. The missionary undertakings begun in 1900 have
been carried forward with increasing energy and earnestness
until the present time.
The condition of the Philippines in 1898 has been compared to the condition of Germany in the time of Luther.
The scene presented a dead church, a renegade priesthood,
and a people starving for spiritual nourishment. Seldom
has such an opportunity for service been presented to the
gospel church. In July, 1898, a conference of representatives of the larger mission boards and societies of America
met in New York City to plan a harmonious and effective
occupation of the Philippines. They agreed that any board
in a position to enter this field was at liberty to do so.
The first organization to take advantage of this opening
was the Young Men's Christian Association. On the Sunday following the occupation of Manila, the first Protestant
service ever openly held in the city was conducted by two
Army Y. M. C. A. secretaries. At first the association's
efforts were confined to the soldiers and other Americans in
the islands, but the work was soon extended to include many
Filipino young men.
The activities of this organization have been of untold
value in shaping the ideals of those who have come under
its ennobling influence. It is here wholly nonsectarian, admitting Catholics as well as Protestants, which gives it a
point of vantage not enjoyed by other religious bodies.
Its social service reaches many men who do not have any
definite religious interests. Manila has to-day several splendid Y. M. C. A. buildings, and others are found in the larger
towns of the islands. The Filipinos themselves have contributed liberally to this enterprise, noticeably the Filipino




182


Isles of Opportunity


philanthropist, Teodoro R. Yangco. This man has given
more generously than any other for the moral uplift and
spiritual enlightenment of his countrymen.
Before hostilities had entirely ceased around Manila,
several missions had entered the city and begun work among
the people. The Methodists were the first to establish themselves. Through the encouragement and help of the Masons,
an institute was opened where the people might attend for
religious instruction. At first the people were very timid
about coming to these meetings, as the hated friars were still
in the city, and might still bring punishment upon any who
dared to disobey them. But gradually it dawned upon the
Filipino mind that under the flag of the United States
men can worship God in any way they choose. This privilege was so precious that they hardly dared to accept it at
first. It is hard even yet for some of the people to realize
that the day of friar rule is over, that men will not now be
flogged, made to eat pounded glass, sent to foreign penal
colonies, or shot by firing squads, for daring to worship God
as their consciences dictate. The Protestant faith has steadily
gained adherents, and the church has become securely rooted
in the Philippines. A descendant of the Zamora who perished at the time of the Cavite Revolt, became the foremost
Filipino preacher.
Among the leading Protestant missions that were at
various times established in the islands may be mentioned
the Presbyterian, which operates the large Silliman Institute
in Negros, and is doing extensive work in several provinces
of Luzon; the Episcopal, which directs its energies especially
toward the mountain people, though it has a fine cathedral
in Manila and congregations in other places; the Baptist,
which operates in the Visayas, centering its religious and
educational work in Iloilo; the United Brethren, which restricts itself to the province of La Union; the Disciple,
which has dormitories and hospitals in Manila and in the
Ilocano cities of Laoag and Vigan; and the Seventh-day
Adventist, which is carrying on its work throughout the
islands, and preaching its doctrines in nine of the dialects.




The Response of the Philippines to the Gospel 183
All these different missions, with the exception of the Seventh-day Adventists, are members of the Philippine Evangelical Union. The islands were divided by this union into
districts, each mission being assigned to a territory exclusively its own. The Adventists could not consistently conform to this arrangement, as they firmly believe that their
message must reach every people and every language. It is
certain that all these missions are accomplishing much in
ministering to the spiritual needs of the Filipinos, educating
the young men and women for pastors, teachers, doctors,
and nurses, and in fitting the Filipinos as a whole for a wider
field of usefulness than they have occupied in the past.
Many foreigners come to the Philippines for the purpose
of enriching themselves from the resources and trade of the
country. Others come for the purpose of travel, and to
feast upon the natural beauties of the islands. But the motive of the missionary is pure and noble. He comes in answer to that inward urge that is born of God, the desire
of those who have found salvation to carry to others the
knowledge of a Saviour's love. Some of these missionaries
are appreciated, and some are not; but all find their compensation in knowing that they are doing the will of their heavenly Father. Theirs is the greatest task, and theirs is the
greatest joy to be found in the world.
The missionary's life is one of constant toil and sacrifice. Hie feels that the extreme urgency of the King's business demands the expenditure of all his energies. Many of
these devoted people work altogether too hard, and often
collapse under the strain of the work and the climate. Their
temperate manner of living is a strong factor in the preservation of health under unfavorable conditions. Their kindness, earnestness, and energy are a wonderful inspiration to
the native evangelists who are associated with them. These
have caught the spirit of true Christian service, and are
throwing themselves unreservedly into the great task of
evangelizing their native land. Their zeal and devotion are
not a whit less than those of their foreign brethren who have
trained them in service. Hundreds of splendid young men




184


Isles of Opportunity


and women, with education and culture, are denying themselves the rewards of secular employment, and entering
whole-heartedly into the ministry for their less fortunate
countrymen. They have learned to esteem the value of the
heavenly recompense, in comparison to which earthly treasure is as nothing.
One young man, who had finished the third year of his
engineering course at the university, accepted Christ as the
supreme Ruler in his life. This decision at once altered all
his plans, and instead of endeavoring to create for himself
a place in the world through his own ability and training,
he dedicated his life to the service of his Master. He is now
a very earnest and successful soul winner. This experience
has been duplicated in the lives of many other young men
and women. Their motive for service comes from association with devoted missionaries, and from a sense of Christ's
strong claim upon them. It is the close co-operation of these
native and foreign Christians that will ultimately succeed in
reaching all parts of the islands with the knowledge of a
crucified, risen, and soon-coming Saviour.
One sometimes hears the question asked if the Filipino
people are truly converted to the teachings of the gospel,
and experience a complete transformation of character and
maintain a victorious Christian life in the midst of temptation. One instance, which is typical of many, must here
suffice as an adequate answer to that question:
In one of the larger towns of Occidental Negros our
native evangelist had been holding tent meetings for many
weeks. A large number of interested people had been in
attendance, and many had expressed a desire for baptism
and admittance into the church. There was in this town
a vile, brutal man named Emilio Tolosa, who had been a
member of a desperate gang of bandits, and who had been
involved in numerous robberies and murders. On repeated
occasions this man had threatened to break up the tent meetings and to use violence in driving the minister from the
town. When his own wife, a calm, peaceable little woman,
began going to the tent and was finally brought under the




The Response of the Philippines to the Gospel 185


influence of the gospel, his rage seemed to know no bounds.
His threats and abuses became so terrible that the evangelist
began to fear for his life. But by some unseen power the
man was restrained from carrying out his threats, and the
meetings continued without interruption until all the important gospel truths had been presented.
At the close of the series of meetings the American
director of the mission came to spend several days with the
new converts and organize them preparatory to baptism.
Tolosa announced that he would certainly be present at the
first meeting held by the director, and put a stop to the whole
proceedings of baptism and church organization. But it was
decided to carry forward the plans in spite of these threats.
The people came together for instruction in a large private
house. In the midst of the service word was passed around
that Tolosa had come, and the atmosphere became very tense
with a dread of what might happen. But the director entirely
ignored the presence of the bandit, and calmly continued the
service to the close. He intended after the meeting to go to
the man personally and in a Christian spirit show him that
he could not by his opposition check for a moment the plans
of God. But before he could get to where the man was, he
had disappeared in the darkness.
The services were continued for four or five evenings,
and Tolosa was present at every one of them. The baptismal
class was fully organized, and the director announced that
he would return after thirty days, and that, if they all should
remain faithful, he would baptize them at that time.
Before taking leave of the believers the next morning,
a messenger came to him with the word that Tolosa would
like to join the baptismal class, and wanted the director's
permission to do so. The latter replied that it would be entirely out of the question. But after the messenger had gone,
Tolosa himself came to the evangelist, and insisted that the
latter come to his home and give him the necessary studies.
Seeking for the truest excuse possible, the evangelist told
him that it would be impossible to cover all the ninety subjects in one month's time. But the man replied, " Come every




186


Isles of Opportunity


day." The evangelist dared not refuse the demand, and
went every day to give the man the instruction he had
asked for.
After a few studies Tolosa saw that he would not be able
to cover all the subjects in the allotted time, and told the
evangelist he must give him three studies a day. For fear
of the consequences if he should refuse to go, this request
also was complied with. To the minister's great surprise the
man grasped eagerly all the difficult points of doctrine presented. When the director returned after the thirty days,
Tolosa confidently presented himself among the candidates
for baptism. But the director positively refused to administer the ordinance to him.
On the appointed morning the candidates assembled on
the shore at the place of baptism. The men and the women
were separated, each forming a large group. The director
then stepped forward between the two groups to lead them
into the water, the men on the right and the women on the
left. When water of suitable depth had been reached, the
large company halted, and the director turned to the man at
his right as the first to be buried in the watery grave. What
was his surprise and almost dismay to find that this man was
none other than Tolosa. Of course the only thing to do was
to baptize him, as the man's sincerity could no longer be
doubted.
Following the baptism, a colporteurs' institute was held
at this place, and who should appear among the prospective
bookmen but Tolosa? In the instructions given to the canvassers in regard to their work, he manifested greater intelligence than any of the others. But of course he could
not be permitted to canvas, as it was thought that he would
not rightly represent the gospel.
At last the territory had all been assigned except one very
difficult district where Catholicism was strong, and the priests
had burned all Protestant literature that had ever entered
there. The leaders called for volunteers to go into this territory, and in response the elder of the new church said that
he would be willing to go. When asked whom he wished




The Response of the Phileippils to the Gospel 187
to take with him as his companion, he replied " I will take
Emlio Tolosa"    With considerable hesitatio  this choice
was agreed to, and the most difficul territory was entered
with gospel books.
From the first it was evident that God was very near
to Tolosa1 for he succ eded in selli n  a large number of
books. The story of his wonderful conversion had bher
noised abroad, and t hs gave him access to places here o
men had never been able to go. Son urglt alls were
coming to the mission headquarters   for evangelists to go
into that dificult region to preach the truth. These workers
were ssent and in a few' months a large church was raised up
in a district where it was thought that the truth could inver
enter. And these results were made possible through the
powerof the gospl of Christ to renew the hearts and tras
form the lives of even the most hardened crminals
Stories like this could be told in great number as expern
ences of this kind are constantly coming to the attention of
the missionaries. Bt this one is sutficieit to anwer the
que si   antd &        gsp e   any luht t     the 
can and does produce won~derful changes in the lives of the
Filipino Ienople  May athe wotl of  d    ti    its tr
f~forming work in the Pilippines  nil all the people have
had the  p    trity to come to Chrit and receive the full
meagsure of His salvation.
En RoCte. to aiesdf  laisd at Negrol in a  atve
ass se Datost Casse




Seventh-day Adventist Church, Island of Negros
This churchh built in true native styte, with thatched roof, stands in a coconut grove.
188




Progress of the Advent Message


'THE last hundred years have witnessed the greatest expansion movement in the history of the Christian church.
I refer to the tremendous impetus which the century just past
has given to the work of foreign missions. A world, hitherto
largely closed to the gospel, has been opened wide for
evangelization. The soul-saving messages of God's word are
rapidly being carried to every race and kindred. This has
been made possible through the wonderfully improved
methods of printing, communication, and travel which God
has provided for this very purpose.    This world-wide
movement is as much greater than Pentecost, as the harvest
is greater than the sowing. The gospel seed scattered by
the apostles nineteen hundred years ago, and nourished by
Spirit-filled men and women down through the ages, is about
to come to full fruition and be reaped for the heavenly
garner.
The most vital faetor in this advance of the gospel into
all the world, vital because it is based on the sure foundation of divine prophecy, is the message of the imminent
second coming of Christ. This glorious event has been the
blessed hope of the church down through the centuries. And
soon this hope is to be realized.
This is the message that was preached by William Miller
and his associates between the years 1831 and 1844. After
the latter date it became the fundamental doctrine of Seventh-day Adventists, who believed that God had commissioned them to deliver this message to the world. In 1849
they began to publish this truth as well as to proclaim it by
word of mouth. In 1874 the first representative of the
movement to a foreign land was sent forth. During the
fifty years that have elapsed since then, more than 3,000 *
* Missionaries sent to foreign fields at the close of 1927, 8,121.
189




190


Isles of Opportunity


Seventh-day Adventist missionaries have gone out into all
parts of the world. These are now laboring in 125 different
countries and preaching their doctrines in 252 languages.
One of the lands in which the advent message has made
most rapid progress, and where men are turning in greatest
numbers from sin and degradation to an observance of the
commandments of God, is the Philippine Islands. This is
the result partly of the Filipinos' susceptibility to the gospel,
and partly to their reaction, at the beginning of the twentieth
century, against the intolerance and erroneous teachings of
the Catholic Church. Though Seventh-day Adventist missionaries are operating in all parts of the world, yet in few
lands has the presentation of their doctrines met with so
whole-hearted a response. The Scriptures have so recently
been unlocked to the Filipino people, that they grasp with
great eagerness the wonderful messages of truth that are
brought to their attention.
It was in 1905 that the advent truth first entered the
Philippines. These islands were at that time, and for several
years afterward, included in the territory of the Australasian
Union. At different times following the American occupation, our representatives had stopped off at Manila by way
of prospecting for an opening for our message.
As in many other fields where the truth has gone, our
books pioneered the way in the Philippines. R. A. Caldwell
blazed the trail for later missionaries to follow, by scattering
a large number of English and Spanish books in and around
Manila. For a period of two years, J. L. McElhany labored
among the Europeans and English-speaking people of the
islands. A wide-spread interest was awakened during these
years, but the way was not yet open for baptisms and the
organization of churches. These years may well be referred
to as the prospecting period, when our workers were laying
definite plans for the proclamation of the message in the
islands. From these early contacts with the Filipino people,
it was evident that their land was ripe for gospel work, and
that a mighty harvest of souls would result as soon as our
forces could enter the field in an organized way.




Progress of the Advenlt Message


191


The first permanent missionaries were sent here from
Australia. In 1908, Pastor L. V. Finster and his wife arrived in Manila to begin regular evangelistic work among
the native people. The first year was spent by them in acquiring a working knowledge of the Tagalog language, in
which, through the help of translators, a few tracts were
published. During the second year it was possible to hold
meetings in the homes of some of the people, most of the
speaking being done through interpreters.
These interpreters were usually young men who were students in the high schools of Manila. A number of them fully
accepted the message, and three developed into strong evangelists. One young man, who was then working as a houseboy to pay his expenses at school, later became one of our
'most useful and dependable native ministers. About this
time a Bible school was conducted for a few months, which
was attended by many of the native pastors of Manila.
Early in 1911 the first Seventh-day Adventist church
in the Philippines was organized in one of the suburbs of
Manila, with eighteen members. Fourteen of this number
were native Filipinos, and those of them who still survive
are loyal to the message. From this time forward it was
possible to hold tent meetings in and near the city. The
tent would remain in one place for a period of ten weeks,
being crowded every night with eager listeners. As the
result of three successive series of meetings, the membership grew to more than one hundred, and many more were
keeping the Sabbath. Reports of this excellent beginning
reached the General Conference, and steps were taken to
strengthen the work in the Philippines in every possible way.
The crying need was for consecrated laborers to reap the
waiting harvest.
It was clearly seen that if the multitudes of people were
to be reached with the truth, the publishing work must be
undertaken in a very definite way. A monthly magazine was
begun in the Tagalog language, which set forth the fundamental principles of our faith. " Thoughts on Daniel" and
several other smaller books were translated and published.




192


Isles of Opportunity


A company of devoted colporteurs was placed in the field,
and the work gradually spread in all directions from Manila.
One of the first calls came from the province of Cavite,
south of Manila Bay, where people were turning to the truth
from Catholicism. The colporteur who had aroused this interest, a gray-haired man, urgently requested that a native
evangelist be sent at once to teach the people further. The
worker who answered this call was able to assemble 500
people, who kept him preaching steadily for two full days.
When he engaged in prayer, the people fell down and began
to weep, under the evident influence of the Holy Spirit. It
was an entirely new experience for the evangelist, who was
greatly strengthened in his own spiritual life. When he returned at a later time, many were keeping the Sabbath, and
trying their best to observe the truths we hold. There are'
now four fine churches in the Cavite district, as the fruit
of the seed sown at that time.
It was the plan from the first to train Filipino evangelists
by association for some time with the foreign worker. This
method has proved very effective, and many strong, consecrated laborers have thus been developed. As students in
the public schools, these had gained a good knowledge of
English, and the doctrines and inspiration they acquired
through this language they imparted to their own people in
the native tongue. The three foremost native evangelists
thus developed were Pastors Bibliano Panis, Emilio
Manalaysay, and Leon Roda, the last two of whom have
fallen at their posts of duty. Many of the most prominent
native churches were raised up through the efforts of these
consecrated men, and stand as monuments to their noble
lives. To-day there are twelve other ordained native pastors
and scores of licensed evangelists carrying forward the
labors of those devoted pioneers. It is upon the shoulders
of these earnest men that the greatest burden falls of giving
the threefold message to the people of the Philippines.
During the year 1912 the corps of foreign workers was
enlarged by the arrival of E. M. Adams and F. A. Ashbaugh.
The former joined the evangelistic staff, and the latter sold




Progress of the Advenlt Melssage


193


many Spanish books on the island of Panay, where he afterward engaged in evangelistic work. A substantial church
building and a mission home were erected in Manila, and
a small denominational printing Iplant was equipped. The
work was now becoming well grounded in central Luzon,
where, after another two years, a regular conference was
organized. This conference eventually came to embrace all
the territory occupied by the Tagalog, Bicol, and Pampanga
speaking peoples, and until recently has comprised a majority
of our membership in the islands.
The first foreign worker to enter the extensive field of
Northern Luzon was Pastor Roy E. Hay, who arrived with
his family toward the close of 1913. The town chosen as
the center of the work to be opened among the Ilocano people,
was Vigan, on the coast of Ilocos Sur Province. This town
is the stronghold of Catholicism for all the north country,
a college and numerous convents being located here. In the
year 1914 every Bible in the whole region round about was
burned by the priests, so determined were they to retain their
hold on the people.
The first year was largely spent by the missionaries in the
study of the Ilocano language, which the director came later
to speak with fluency. The first Sabbath school was organized in the mission home, with a usual attendance of from
eight to twelve. Never was this service held without a
shower of stones being hurled at the house by the enemies
of the truth. But the earnestness of the missionaries finally
prevailed against this opposition, and the message began to
get a foothold among the people. It was during this first
year that the language teacher took his stand for the truth,
giving up his government position rather than transgress the
fourth commandment.
The native evangelist who gave the most valuable help
during this early period of the work was Leon Roda. This
young man had gained a thorough education in the schools
of Manila, where he had also gained a knowledge of the
advent message. Desirous of carrying back to his own people the truth which he had accepted, he joined Pastor Hay
13




-2 
02~n
0ci~00i
2 s~~ 
2 ti
00 ctf 
2,~r
0-.0~o 
u 0
00lu-i




Progress of the Advent Message


195


in 1914. Two graduates of the Catholic college in Vigan
also accepted the message, and both of these men became
successful evangelists.
The first church was organized in 1916, with sixteen
members. At the first general meeting of the mission, held
in October, 1917, the membership was reported as sixtyfour.  Some, of these converts came from   among the
Tinggian people, a sturdy semimountainous tribe of the foothills. In that same year the first chapel was erected, a neat
little bamboo building costing about $40. Tithes and offerings began coming in from the very first to support the work.
When the people did not have money to give, they would
bring such as they had,- chickens, eggs, rice, camotes, and
other produce. And more acceptable still than these gifts,
they gave their hearts and their lives to the Lord.
Spreading out north and south from Vigan, the message
soon won adherents the whole length of the Ilocos plain.
Small companies of believers were appearing in many towns.
In 1918 an Ilocano monthly magazine was started, Ti Damag
Ti Pagarian, which had a wide circulation from the first.
Books also played a very prominent part in acquainting the
people with the truth, more than $8,000 worth being sold
during 1917 and 1918.
Pastor Hay spent much time and effort traveling over
the northern provinces, first on foot and later by motorcycle,
searching out openings for the message. At first under his
leadership, and later under the direction of Pastors W. B.
Ammundsen and J. O. Afenir, this mission has experienced
a good growth. It embraces, besides the Pacific coast plain,
the half million people of the great mountain region, and
the populous province of Pangasinan to the south. Every
year has witnessed a steady growth in membership, which
at the close of 1927 was 1,427. Many well-educated young
people are entering the work in this field, which naturally
means still greater victories for the message in the future.
The first island after Luzon to have a settled mission
was Cebu, following a seed sowing of Spanish books. In
1914 Dr. Carlos Fattebert opened a medical mission on the




196


Islcs of Opportlnity


island, and the M\anila press sulpplied him with a generous
quantity of literature in the Cebuan dialect. People began
gradually to accept the message, but it was a more difficult
work than in central Luzon, where the people had longer
been in touch with the modern world. Aside from Catholic
catechisms and prayer books, the first publications to appear
in the Cebuan tongue were of Adventist origin. Director
S. W. Munro reported a membership of seventy-three in
1920, and though the field has for several years been without adequate supervision, the present membership is approximately one thousand. The Cebuan mission is financially
strong, and under the present able leadership is destined to
become one of the stanch bulwarks of our church in the
Philippines.
One of the miracles of the modern missionary movement
is the remarkable success which has attended the proclamation of the advent message in the West Visayan Mission.
This field is composed of the rich southern islands of Panay
and Negros. As elsewhere, the books prepared the way here
for the living preacher; and there were already thirty members when E. M. Adams took charge of the mission in 1914.
This veteran worker gained so thorough a mastery of the
Panayan dialect that he could speak to the people in that
tongue with ease. He was compelled to act as director and
treasurer of the mission, as well as pastor and traveling evangelist, for several years, until a competent force of native
workers could be trained. A native pastor of the Baptist
faith accepted the Sabbath and became a valuable helper in
spreading the truth. Another young Filipino, who had been
converted in America and had studied in the Lodi Academy,
returned to his home in Panay, and was later ordained to
the ministry. Not a large number of converts were won
during those early years, but these few were of the better
class, and liberally supported the work with tithes and offerings. A solid foundation was laid, which made possible
a bountiful harvest in later years.
In 1920 G. H. Murrin became director of the West
Visayan Mission, who built upon the labors of his predeces



Progress of thie Advclt lMess(age


197


sors. A fine mission home was built at La Paz, near Iloilo,
and an extensive evangelistic program was launched. The
succeeding five years witnessed such a phenomenal growth
in membership as has been seen in few lands. The increase
during this period was from 171 to 1,585; and under the
leadership of W. H. Bergherm, the present director of the
field, the membership has now reached nearly 2,450.
With headquarters in Iloilo, the activities of this mission have extended throughout all of Panay, the western
half of the island of Negros, and a large number of smaller
islands. It has been necessary to erect in Iloilo a central
chapel capable of seating 2,000 people, for in this field the
whole membership is likely to attend the general meetings.
The annual gatherings of believers in this mission are the
largest assemblies of Seventh-day Adventists found anywhere in the Far East. It is an inspiration to address this
great audience of earnest people, and to hear their voices
raised in praise to God for the wonderful deliverance He
has wrought in their lives.
From the very beginning our work in the Philippines
has been strongest in the central Luzon field. First under
the direction of L. V. Finster, and later under that of R. R.
Breitigam and E. M. Adams, this conference has continued
to prosper and grow. All along the way there have been
many direct tokens of the intervention of God in leading men
to the truth.
As the evangelists were opening up their work in a new
place, they met with the bitterest opposition from a Filipino
pastor of another faith. But suddenly the efforts of this
man were halted. One night he had a very impressive dream,
in which he was told that he should not longer oppose our
message, but that instead he should investigate it. He believed that the voice of God was speaking to him, and in
obedience he began to attend our meetings.
As he learned the vital truths which we proclaim, he
was constrained to accept them as from God, and both he
and his wife were baptized. He at once asked the privilege
of entering the work as a colporteur. After an excellent




198


Isles of Opportunity


experience in the book work, winning many souls through
this means, he was employed as one of the regular evangelists. As this man speaks the Pampanga dialect fluently,
his field of labor became that large province with its more
than 300,000 inhabitants. This promises to become one of
the most fruitful districts in the Philippines. In a municipality near Mt. Arayat, an Aglipayan priest and 200 of his
parishioners began the observance of the seventh-day Sabbath as the result of literature work in that place. Several
strong tent efforts were conducted in the vicinity during the
season of 1926, and two good churches have since been
organized.
An incident occurred in the province of Tayabas which
illustrates the power of the truth upon the hearts of these
people of few advantages. A man was baptized in the town
of San Pablo. Soon after accepting the message, he left the
place and was not heard from for several years. It was
thought that he had probably drifted away. When Pastor
Manalaysay was preparing to open new work at Lucban, in
the coconut country some fifty miles from  San Pablo, a
man came to him and offered to help put up the tent. He
said he had been praying for a long time that some one would
come to preach the truth in that town. Upon inquiry, it
was found that this was the man who had been baptized
in San Pablo, trace of whom had been lost for so many
years. The meetings he had prayed for were greatly blessed
of God, and in the first effort forty-four persons were baptized, including the man's own wife. This illustrates the
great truth, " Cast thy bread upon the waters, for thou shalt
find it after many days."
In the early years of our work, a native pastor came to
Manila from one of the remote provinces to get help. He
said one of his members had come to him deeply impressed
by a dream in which he had seen a dove descend from
heaven and alight upon the fourth commandment. A radiant
light shone out from that part of the law. The pastor said,
" It may be that the Lord has light for us in that commandment," and together they began to study their Bibles.




Progress of the Advent Message


199


They soon discovered that God's law enjoins the observance of the seventh day of the week, and not the first. They
continued searching in other parts of the Bible, and became
convinced that the seventh day should be kept. The pastor
then came all the long distance to Manila to get help. He
spent a week in study at the mission office, and went back
to preach the coming of Christ and the call of Sabbath reform to his people.
That wonderful book, " The Great Controversy," has recently been translated into the Tagalog and Panayan dialects,
and is now being scattered far and wide by the colporteurs.
The truths this book contains are especially applicable to
our own time, and hundreds are turning to the light as the
result of reading it. Several copies of the book were sold
in a town of Laguna Province where our evangelists had
never gone. Soon calls were coming to the mission office
for a minister to go and preach the message in that town.
As there were scores of other calls, many of which must
go unanswered for lack of laborers, this call could not be
met by the mission. But so insistent were the pleas of the
people, and so great their need, that a sister from a church
ten miles away began going to the town twice a week to
hold meetings. This sister had the ability to teach the people, and soon 200 were attending regularly. These faithful
efforts were continued for many weeks until the evangelist
could come, and when he at last arrived, he found the people
already well grounded in the faith.
In all parts of the Philippine field, with its twelve million
people and many dialects, the printed page is opening the
way for the living minister. At first only Spanish and English books were sold, as these were then the only ones available. But as translators and printing facilities were developed, the truth was published in the tongues of the people.
For several years past, books, magazines, or tracts have been
appearing in eight of these dialects. And recently we have
begun to publish in the language of Samar. That large
island had been entered with Cebuan literature, and two fine
churches organized. But these believers desire to spread




200                 sls of O    rnity
the    th thrh        the whole island, with its half  on
people, and must have insltruments with which to work. A
supily of tracts and small hunks is heing  rovided fur nr them
The large province of Pangatsani at thei fnut of the
ture   So frtitful is this distrit that within three years
nearlt 1,000 souls have been wuVn to Christ  The Northern
liW EM   ~ ElN
Vitnthe tnMs  ches in uicfifenLt Nngs si a Hand a.
This territory ils largely gen to the raisig of stagar cane and the ral
ways are  d fior taow6in the ts o ts the,niity1
Luzon Mission, with hleadquarters formerly at Vigan on the
I ocsos      has been compelld to move south 200 miles,
where thle maorit   of its memher are lcated    This mis
Sion has exlendeits In      i    the fertile valle  off the
Cagayan, where fir   clorteurs and late evangelists, havile
arred the      ssage.  Successful work is also heing done
amogthe                                                 ofmonin people around Ilauin  a nu f
whmi have heen haptied     Seval of these mountainihnys
*1gi - 12tilbi~,:
rr




Progress of the Advent Message


201


who have attended the training school in Manila, have gone
back into the depths of their native hills, and are conducting
schools for their own people. It is much more difficult to
win these pagan hill people than the Filipinos who have long
been subject to Christian influences.
Scarcely had a mission been established on Panay, than
the message began to sound forth throughout Negros to
the east. This island was an excellent field for literature
workers, as the rich sugar lands make the people prosperous
and able to buy our books. Evangelists were sent into the
island as fast as they could be trained, and the result of
their labors is more than 1,500 Sabbath keepers.
The work established in Cebu under Dr. U. C. Fattebert
spread into the large island of Mindanao, where many
Cebuan settlements are found. So numerous and urgent
have the calls become, that it was found necessary to send
a strong corps of evangelists into the islands. The leader
of this work in Mindanao is Pastor Wenceslao Rodriguez,
whose labors have been so fruitful on Cebu. All the larger
islands of the Visayas have now been entered with the message, and churches and schools are rapidly springing up
throughout all this region.
Another especially promising field is the four fine Bicol
provinces of southern Luzon. There are three quarters of
a million people who speak the Bicol tongue, and they are
a thrifty, intelligent class of people. Bookmen pioneered
the way in that field as early as 1919, but only recently has
the interest developed into organized churches.  Three
churches have already been raised up, and several other fine
companies are ready for organization.  These provinces
were formerly a part of the Central Luzon Conference, but
the work became so extensive that a division was necessary.
The Southern Luzon Mission was organized early in
1926, with headquarters in the beautiful town of Albay, at
the foot of Mt. Mayon. Colporteurs are now scattering
an excellent translation of " Our Day " throughout this field,
which is creating a widespread and wholesome interest in
our teachings. The director is unable to answer more than




202


Isles of Opportunity


one call in ten, as the present corps of laborers is entirely
inadequate. Though the Catholic Church is very strong in
this district, and is inclined to oppose the truth most bitterly,
yet we believe that in a short time this field will show as
large a membership as some of the other missions.
During the vacation weeks of 1925, two students from
the Philippine Junior College visited the undeveloped island
of Palawan. This long, narrow island is part of a chain that
extends from near Luzon to the very tip of Borneo far to
the southwest. Here is found some of the most wonderful
scenery in the Philippines. The island is inhabited by a few
Christian Filipinos, and a larger number of Moros and wild,
semicivilized tribes.
The two students earned their scholarships with Spanish
and Visayan books, but covered only a small part of the
territory. They spent some time with the leper colony at
Culion, selling literature and holding meetings with these
unfortunate people. There are 5,000 lepers on Culion Island,
and one laborer could profitably spend his whole time among
them. These men and women are very susceptible to the
gospel, since their affliction brings them very near to God.
Palawan has been added to the territory of the West Visayan
Mission, which will send evangelists into the island as soon
as they can be released.
It was in 1918 that the Philippines were organized into
a union mission, with headquarters in Manila. In that year
the first biennial conference was held, with delegates present
from all parts of the archipelago where the message was
being preached. From its organization as a union, Pastor
S. E. Jackson has been superintendent of the field. Though
there are vast areas in the islands yet unentered and many
languages are still silent to the message, a mighty work has
already been done, and greater things are yet before us.
When one recalls that our first church in the Philippines
was organized only fifteen years ago, and then views the
present vast dimensions to which the work has grown, he
must exclaim with the prophet of old, "What hath God
wrought! "




Progress of the Advent Message


203


Beginning in 1911 with one church of eighteen members,
the cause has experienced a most remarkable growth during
every succeeding year. By the end of 1912 the membership
had passed the 100 mark. Four years later, in 1916, it stood
at 804. The number of baptisms was now increasing year
by year, as new territory and new languages were being entered. By 1920 the membership had advanced to 2,177, of
whom 745 were baptized that year.
But still greater victories were about to be witnessed.
Since 1921 we have been baptizing more than 1,000 souls
each year in the Philippines. In 1924 the number was 1,279,
and in 1926 there were 1,960 baptisms. At the close of
1927 there were in these islands 9,500 loyal Seventh-day
Adventists. A few have drifted away from the message
during the years, but the number of those who apostatize
is becoming smaller each year. Candidates are fully instructed in all points of the faith before they are baptized,
and none are admitted to the church unless their lives bear
witness that they have been transformed by the grace of God.
Seventh-day Adventists are represented in the Philippines by 145 organized churches and 250 Sabbath schools.
These dear people study and understand the same lessons, believe the same truths, experience the same longing
for the coming of Jesus, and manifest as great zeal and
devotion for the service of the Master, as the brethren in
Europe, America, or any other part of the world. Every
laborer, native and foreign, seems to have caught the vision
of what may be accomplished by a life fully surrendered to
the Holy Spirit. They have learned to expect great things
from God, and are willing to attempt great things for Him.
During the season of 1928, the activities of evangelists and
literature workers were greater than ever before. The baptisms for the year approximated 2,000, placing our membership in the islands beyond 11,000.
The headquarters of the Philippine Union Mission are
really not located in Manila, though the treasurer and some
other leaders have their offices there. Most of the foreign
workers have their homes on an attractive compound in




WM   C. KERN~                                                                                  000 00 40 0A000
Village of Coau oo the blood    f Ceo
T2 e Ceboa4   Mission is desined to become one of the blolsrks of ooe hueh iin the Phillpines6!
20f4




Progress of the Adventt IMessage


205


Pasay, a suburb south of Manila on the shore of the bay.
We are thus outside of the congested city area, and at the
same time enjoy many of the advantages of the city. It is
possible to reach Manila within thirty minutes by carromata, automobile, or one of two street car lines. On this
compound are also located two growing institutions, the
Philippine Publishing House, and the Philippine Junior
College.
Manila is the natural center of the islands, and the place
where the advent message gained its first victories. It has
therefore become the center of our extensive work, and from
here radiate the gleams of gospel truth and light into every
quarter of the islands. And from here one can survey in
clear perspective the miracles of grace in the hearts and lives
of the people as they surrender themselves to Christ.
In order to reach the various language groups of the
Philippines, it has been necessary to establish mission headquarters in several parts of the islands. The union field as
constituted in 1918 was composed of five local missions.
These missions were as follows: the Central Luzon Conference, with office in Manila, Tagalog and Pampanga dialects,
president, E. M. Adams; the Northern Luzon Mission,
office in San Fernando, La Union, Ilocano, Pangasinan, and
mountain dialects, director, J. O. Afenir; the East Visayan
Mission, office in Cebu, Cebuan and Samarifio dialects,
director, F. L. Chaney; the West Visayan Mission, office
in Iloilo, Panayan dialect, director, W. H. Bergherm; and
the Southern Luzon Mission, office in Albay, Bicol dialect,
director, W. B. Riffel. In all these fields the prospects are
excellent for an abundant harvest of souls in the future.
The success of the message in the Philippines has been
due to a number of very favorable conditions. The change
of sovereignty twenty-five years ago threw the country open
to the preaching of the gospel, and the missionaries came
just when the people were most ready to receive them.
The Filipinos caught the spirit of Christian service, and
many strong young men and women undertook the task of
giving the true gospel to their people. The greatest strength




206


Isles of Opportunity


of the message in the islands to-day is the large company
of consecrated native workers who have been trained by the
missionaries and are now proclaiming the truth to the people
in their own tongues.
Another important factor is the greatly improved means
of communication and travel, which has opened up all sections of the country to enlightenment.  Railways, roads,
steamship lines, the telegraph, and an efficient postal system
have been wonderful aids in quickly reaching all parts of
the islands. A traveler or a letter can now go from Manila
into all the important towns of the Philippines in from three
to five days.
But the most powerful helper in the work of missions,
here as in all other countries, has been the printing press.
This has made possible the wide distribution of the Scriptures in many dialects, and enabled the people to investigate
the truth of God for themselves. The American Bible
Society has thus far been able to meet the great demand for
Bibles, most of which have been distributed through the interest created by the Adventists.
From the beginning, the publishing work has been our
greatest asset. As early as 1913, a small press was secured
and the printing of tracts and magazines begun in a little
shop behind the mission home in Manila. At first the publications were confined to the Tagalog, but soon there was a
growing demand for literature in the Ilocano, Cebuan,
Panayan, and other dialects. It was very evident that some
provision must be made to supply this demand. Consequently, in 1915 land was bought in Pasay just south of
the city for the erection of a publishing house. A splendid
plant has here grown up, which has been enlarged and improved every year since it was founded.
Literature is now being issued in ten of the native dialects,
and scattered by more than a hundred colporteurs throughout the entire country. These faithful men submit to every
hardship and resort to every method of travel in order to
get the printed page into.the hands of the people. They
wade through the rice swamps and ride on the backs of




Progress of the Advent Message


207


carabaos, they climb precipitous mountains and swim rivers
that are infested with crocodiles, they brave the dangers of
typhoons, floods, and the waves of the sea, if only they can
reach the people with the message of salvation. And hundreds are being won to Christ through the labors of these
men.
During recent years the magazine work has grown to
large proportions. As many as 120,000 copies of a single
issue of our magazines have been printed and sold. The
Tagalog Ang Tanglaw has the largest circulation of any
periodical in the Philippines. A large corps of workers is
kept busy translating our publications into the languages
of the people, with a much larger force engaged in the
work of printing. Three men have given years of faithful
service to the development of this institution, C. N. Woodward, E. A. Moon, and H. A. Anderson, the second named
being in 1918 manager of the press. The publishing house
was at that time equipped with linotype, Miehle presses, and
other modern machinery, and was being taxed to capacity
to supply the needs of the field. The linotype and presses
were kept running night and day. The sale of our literature
has increased by leaps and bounds, first under the direction
of Robert Steward, and later under that of J. J. Strahle
and M. F. Wiedemann. As much as $75,000 worth of books
has been distributed in one year.
Other departments of the organized work have been
strongly developed, and each is contributing a large share
toward filling the islands with the gospel. The program of
training the Filipino youth for service will be treated at
length in the following chapter. Suffice it here to say that
schools are being established in many places, where nearly
a thousand of our youth are receiving a Christian education.
Sixty Missionary Volunteer Societies are opening the way
for their 2,000 members to engage actively in soul-winning
work. And the zeal of these Filipino young people cannot
be surpassed in any other land. In 1918, 250 Sabbath
schools throughout the islands were imparting to 10,000
earnest people every week, a thorough knowledge of the




20S


Isles of Oppolrltunity


advent message. With the knowledge goes an eager desire
to teach it to others.
Sunday law agitation has already begun in the Philippines, and to meet this emergency a well-organized religious
liberty department has come into being, which is presenting
before legislators, gbvernment officials, and other people the
principles of religious tolerance and freedom of conscience.
The Philippines are quite generally supplied with hospitals, and the medical work of the mission has not been
strongly emphasized. However, a fund has now been started
for the erection of a denominational sanitarium, and the near
future will witness this plan realized.
The guiding, prospering hand of the Lord has ever been
over His work in this land since it was first entered with
our books in 1905. The soil into which the seed fell was
very fertile, and an abundant harvest has been the result.
Twenty-six missionary families have been sent to the islands
since first the seeds of truth were sown, and thirteen of
these are now in service in the field. This seems like a very
small force indeed among 12,000,000 people, and with a
constituency as large as we now have. But these few foreign
laborers are ably assisted by nearly 250 loyal native evangelists, pastors, teachers, Bible workers, and canvassers.
Under the united efforts of all these earnest men and women,
surrendered as they are to the Holy Spirit, the glorious news
of a soon-coming Saviour is speedily being carried into all
parts of the islands. And from those who are thus being
brought to the light, the Lord of heaven is making up jewels
to shine forever in His kingdom.
Once every two years, representatives from all parts of
the field come together in Manila for a large general assembly. These gatherings assume the nature of a triumph
or praise feast for the victories won, and serve as milestones
to mark the extent and onward sweep of our mission enterprise.
The tithes and offerings from the Philippine field in 1925
amounted to more than $37,000, or one half the amount required to sustain the work. The Central Luzon Conference




Progress of ite Aidvclcnt Messagc


209


has become 86 per cent self-supporting, with other missions
almost as strong. The ideal we have set before us is entire
self-support, but this will not come for some time in the
future, and we must still rely upon the Mission Board. Converts are won to the truth in the Philippines more cheaply
than in most other parts of the world. During the past year
the average outlay for each conversion was approximately
$30. Who can deny a gift so small, if through this means
a soul can be born into the kingdom of God? Few fields
are so fruitful and so promising as these beautiful islands
of the Eastern Sea.
But these victories for the Master in the Philippines have
not been won without tremendous sacrifice of life and
health. Many faithful workers have been compelled to yield
to the exacting demands of the climate and the work, and
some have fallen at their post of duty. The lives of three
foreign workers have been laid down in service, and those
of several devoted native workers.
The lives of two of our veteran Filipino ministers have
also been sacrificed in service, Pastor Emilio Manalaysay
and Pastor Leon Roda. The former fell fighting the battles
of his heavenly Commander in the year 1921, after having
raised up a large number of churches among the Tagalog
people. The latter pioneered the message in the Ilocano
country, bearing the heavy burdens of that early work, and
in 1925 fell in the midst of his strenuous labors. These
with other faithful men and women have died for the sake
of the cause they loved. And as long as the work of missions
shall continue on earth, the lifeblood of God's children will
water the seed of the gospel. " Whosoever will save his life
shall lose it; but whosoever shall lose his life for My sake
and the gospel's, the same shall save it."


14




Out of the Fruitful oiuonut Foins for Which he
Phiippiu0s Ar Famous
210




Training the Filipino Youth as
Missionaries
IT has been very truthfully said that the youth are the
hope of the church. The future of any movement is secure
if it can hold the interest and devotion of its young people.
Though age and experience are positive essentials for leadership and counsel, yet it is the vigor and earnestness of youth
that give life to any enterprise.
In the world-wide mission of the church it is especially
needful that a large number of strong young men and
women be trained and ready at the Master's bidding. A
world is open and waiting for the gospel. Hands are outstretched in every land, and voices are raised in earnest
pleading that those who bear the message of salvation shall
bring to these lands that priceless treasure.
Many are those in middle life or even in advanced years
who would gladly respond to these urgent calls. But it is
not meet that these should go, when there are youthful
workers who can answer the summons. The acquiring of
new languages is a task for youthful minds. Strong young
hands are needed, and rugged shoulders, to bear the burdens
and hardships of the mission field. Young workers can more
readily adapt themselves to the strange new conditions they
are sure to meet. And when once adjusted to new peoples
and customs, a whole life of usefulness is before them.
The call of the mission field is a challenge to all red-blooded
young men and women who are willing to try their mettle
at a truly worth-while task.
At times of great crisis in the history of His people, God
has often seen fit to choose young men to carry forward
His work. Men called to the prophetic office took up their
burdens in early years. Sometimes God's chosen ambassadors held offices of trust in the courts of great empires,
and thus extended the field of their influence and the knowl211




212


Isles of Opportunity


edge of the true God. It was upon the shoulders of young
men that Christ placed the burden of extending the work
of the early church into all the world. Those men entered
so completely into the service of the Master, that all were
called upon to lay down their lives for His sake.
When, after long centuries of apostasy and error, the
gospel light again burst forth into the full glare of the Reformation, it was invariably young men whom God used to
sound forth His messages. And thus has it been during
the whole history of the church. God calls to young men
because they are strong, and because the word of the Lord
abides in them. He knows they are able, like good soldiers,
to endure hardness. Those who, like Paul, have not been
disobedient to the heavenly vision, have, also like him, become channels of untold blessing to their fellow men.
The problem of carrying the advent message into all the
world in this generation is to be solved in just the same way.
The youth now growing up under the sanctifying influences
of the truth, will soon be bearing the brunt of the battle out
in the difficult places. Parents who place the right estimate
upon the children whom God has intrusted to their care,
will gladly dedicate these young lives as an offering to Him.
And youth who have respect unto the recompense of the
reward, will unhesitatingly respond when the Lord calls
them to service. " He that loveth father or mother more
than Me is not worthy of Me: and he that loveth son or
daughter more than Me is not worthy of Me."
The one all-absorbing purpose of the schools which
Seventh-day Adventists have established throughout the
world, is speedily to train the youth of the denomination
as laborers for the harvest. These schools hold the young
people true to the message, and give them a vision of the
needs of the world field. To eyes that have thus been spiritually anointed, the richest rewards of this world sink into
insignificance, and the riches of Christ are seen in their true
glory.
In the schools of the denomination there are found to-day
full 60,000 boys and girls, young men and young women,




Trai'ningl the Filipillo Youth as Missionlaries  213
fitting themselves for consecrated service. It is this mighty
army of young people whom God is leading forth to finish His work in all the earth. Many hundreds who are
now proclaiming the message in the uttermost parts received
their vision and their training in our schools. But in every
land the needs are many and the calls urgent, so that a place
is waiting for every young person who is ready and willing
to serve humanity.
An unusually large proportion of young people have
embraced the advent message in the Philippines. It is rather
difficult to win the older people who were, during earlier
years, under strong Catholic influence, and received what
education they have under Spanish teachers. It is hard for
them to tear away from their old moorings altogether and
accept a new faith. But the younger generation live in a
different atmosphere. They have grown up in the free air
of democracy and religious freedom, and have received their
education in an American system of schools. Some four
million of these younger Filipinos have acquired the English
language, together with the Protestant ideals for which English-speaking peoples stand. It has been to the new generation that Protestant missions have made their strongest appeal. And thousands of these young people are coming to
us to be taught a better way to live, and to be trained for
Christian service among their own people.
From.the very beginning of our work in the islands,
it has been clear that the quickest and most effective way
to reach the people would be to train the young converts as missionaries.  Practically every educated young
person in the Philippines can speak at least two languages,
English, in which he received his education, and the native
dialect in which he was born, and it may be also Spanish
or one or more of the neighboring dialects. The more dialects one has at his command, the greater his field for usefulness. Many young men of ability have entered the denomination, and after a period of association with the foreign
worker, during which they were being trained and tested,
have gone out to labor as colporteurs and evangelists. The




214


Isles of Opportunity


Filipino frequently possesses a natural gift for oratory, and
the young men often make excellent preachers. The greater
part of the public speaking and instruction in the homes of
the people is done by native workers. And the fruit of their
labors is many hundreds of souls brought to the Saviour
every year.
The young men who were sent out to proclaim the message during its first years in the Philippines, did not have
the opportunity to attend one of our own schools. Their
education was limited to what they had received in the public
high schools, with a year or two of university work in the
case of a few. Their special training as evangelists consisted of short institutes held by the foreign missionary. In
this way they mastered the various Bible doctrines, and by
acting as interpreters and helpers in tent meetings, they
learned our methods of public evangelism.
The Filipino mind is remarkably alert, and the people
need to see a thing done only a few times before they can
reproduce it with apparent ease. With surprising readiness
these young men acquired efficiency in presenting our truths
to the people in an attractive way. From the first their
efforts met with success, and churches began to spring up
in many places.
The most valuable lesson which they learned was that
souls are not won to the kingdom of heaven through any
ability or wisdom that man possesses, but through the workings of the Spirit of God. The sooner any worker learns
this great lesson, and the more fully he allows himself to
be used by this divine power, the more fruitful will be his
labors as a soul winner.
Even though these early workers did not have the advantages which our Filipino young people now enjoy, their
efforts were greatly blessed of God. The rapid progress
made from the very beginning of our work, and the solid
foundation laid for the message in the islands, were due in
large measure to the faithful labors of our native evangelists.
It was six years after the organization of our first church
in the Philippines, before a training school for workers was




Training the Filipino Youth as Missionaries  215


established. Late in 1916 two families arrived in the field
from America to give their whole attention to educational
work. These workers were I. A. Steinel and 0. F. Sevrens
with their wives. Both men were experienced in the work
to which they had been called, the latter having been in the
Philippines as a missionary teacher before accepting the
faith. Buildings had not yet been erected in which to conduct a school, and it was too late to plan for regular work
that year. However, the native evangelists and Bible workers
were called in from the field, and given a six weeks' course
of instruction under the recently arrived teachers. Humble
as that first effort now seems, it laid the foundation for our
present extensive educational work in the islands.
The school year in the Philippines begins in June and
continues until March. The purpose of such a schedule is
to avoid holding school during the extremely hot months
of April and May. By June, 1917, the first school building
was completed and ready for occupancy.   This building
contained classrooms and assembly room on the first floor,
and on the second, quarters for the preceptor and dormitory
space for boys. With numerous subsequent additions, this
has ever since served as the main building of the Philippine
Academy.
This school first opened its doors to students that
memorable June, with an enrollment for the year of thirtyseven. Only twelve of this first student body were girls,
whose dormitory was an old nipa house that came with the
land. A cottage was built that same year for the principal,
I. A. Steinel, and these three buildings constituted our first
educational plant. The first corps of teachers, three foreign
and two native, were consecrated heart and soul to the cause
of God. A high spiritual standard was set for the school
from the very beginning, and the students who were trained
during that early period now occupy positions of responsibility in the work.
It was the original plan that the school should provide
only a short course for prospective workers, regardless of
what grade they might have attained. And this plan was




216


Isles of Opportunity


carried out the first year. But it soon became evident, with
an ever-increasing enrollment, that the school should be organized the same as other- private schools in the islands.
Consequently the second year a curriculum was arranged
which provided instruction in all the primary and intermediate grades, and as much academic work as there would
be a demand for. The faculty was strengthened by the
addition of both foreign and native teachers, which was made
necessary by the increased enrollment and a correspondingly
larger number of classes. Pastor R. R. Breitigam arrived
in the field in 1919 to head the Bible department of the
school, a position which he held for two years.
As the message gradually spread throughout the islands,
young people of various dialects began coming to the central training school in Manila to be fitted for the work in
their respective fields. By 1920 the enrollment had grown
to 180, five times what it was the first year of the school.
The previous year the institution had been recognized by
the insular government, and incorporated as the Philippine
Seventh-day Adventist Academy. By 1923 there were more
than 300 students enrolled, which number has since been
maintained. Every year has seen a larger number completing the academic course, and going into the field for efficient
service.
The longer our students study under the devoted, capable instructors at the academy, the better fitted are they
to carry the burdens placed upon them in the field. Through
the valuable service which this institution is rendering, the
standard of education and efficiency among the workers is
being greatly raised. Some of our graduates have already
been ordained to the ministry. The number of those who
leave the faith after finishing a course at the Academy is
very small indeed.
As the student body has grown from year to year, and
the activities of the school have expanded, it has been necessary to erect other buildings and provide enlarged facilities
in every way. In 1920 a girls' dormitory was built, capable
of accommodating fifty students, one floor of which contains




Trailning the Filipino Youth as M1issionaries  217
the girls' assembly room and a dining room large enough to
seat 140 students. The main building has been greatly enlarged to provide more classrooms, a library, dormitory
space for eighty boys, and a new, cool suite of rooms for
the preceptor's family. New cottages have been provided
for both native and foreign teachers, a carpentry shop and
domestic science building has been erected, and two neighboring buildings purchased for the use of the primary and
intermediate grades. Two thousand volumes have been collected for the academy library, and laboratory equipment
for physics, chemistry, and biological science. But with all
these improvements, the school has been unable to receive
for training any year all the young people who have asked
to be admitted. Work is provided whereby a limited number of students can pay a part or all of their expenses; but
many have to be turned away for lack of money on their
part, and lack of space in the school to accommodate them all.
Though cramped and handicapped in its present location,
the school has successfully built up several profitable industries. There are only four or five acres of land in connection with the school at present. But by intensive cultivation
this has been made to produce many of the vegetables consumed in the school. A number of boys have devoted themselves to the raising of poultry with considerable success.
Practically all of the construction work about the school,
and the making of all the furniture, has been done by the students under the direction of American teachers. Much fine
cabinet work is done by the boys in the carpenter shop.
The proximity of the school to the publishing house
affords many students an opportunity to pay their expenses
at the academy while at the same time they learn the art
of printing and book making. Filipina women generally are
expert with the needle, and the young lady students produce
some excellent embroidery, lace, and crocheted articles. Belt
making, weaving, and leather work have all been developed
to a considerable extent.
Like many other peoples of the Orient, the Filipino is
not a devotee of hard physical labor. But there are some




218               Ile of Opprtunity
trades in which he becomes ver proficient. The school has
taken advantage of the natural inclinations of the students
has also tatglht them some practical iduistry.  The truly
a aside fro;   ~   iA tem for thet   o a 1 k of the gospel
educated man is he who is trained in head, in hand, and in
heart.  The academy has constantly held hefore its students
this threefold ideal, and the results of this instruction have
heen quite satisfactory.
The demand became so great among our Filipino young
peopl for instruction beyond the academi grades that the
oacatt  f the Photfpytne juanne Cottage 6t SefenhAy AdVeattats
Far Eastern Division of the General Conference voted in
1925 to dd to our cours of study the first two years of
collegiate work. T he first college yea was o&fered in 1926,
the e   d was added in 1927.
In harmony with this action, the name of the school has
heen changed to Philippin Junior College, and the insular
govefirnment has appro~ved the change,  Governmet recO
among the othe shls of the Philipines, but it makes
our course of study especially havy. For we must teach
all that the government rqires, besides the speial relious
traiinini *  our4 sftuidenits receive. The clas of young
' eople who attend ou shool are ahove the average in inu
teligence and ahility, and are able to cary the extra work..ci~  f,t~          __~~tc O~~~1 il~~_~ ~f ~~~~~~~t~t b( ~~ ~
Y   _~  %I          [,~F~~i




Training the Filipino Youth as Missionaries  219


The spiritual and physical training which they receive enables them to absorb more mental instruction, and they graduate from our school well-rounded men and women.
The youth of the Philippines to-day, whose parents were
denied the advantages of an education, are determined to
make the most of their present opportunities. This is true
in a special sense of Seventh-day Adventist young people.
It is a real delight to instruct these students, so eager are
they to learn and be fitted for positions of usefulness. The
ambition and earnestness of these young people are a rebuke
to the youth of more favored lands, who enjoy greater advantages but value them less highly.
The Philippine Junior College offers its students several
courses of study. The great majority of students choose the
general course, because this gives them a broad foundation
for their life's work. The thorough instruction they receive
in the Bible department, and the general spiritual atmosphere of the school, prepare them to enter nearly every line
of gospel work.
There is also a special gospel workers' course, whose
purpose is not to prepare the student for graduation, but
to give him two years of intensive training and send him
out into the field. A strong two-year normal course is now
being offered, to supply teachers for the many denominational primary and intermediate schools that are springing
up in all parts of the islands.
There is a growing demand in all the missions for competent bookkeepers, secretaries, and stenographers. To meet
this demand the college has added a thorough two-year commercial course, which an increasing number of students are
choosing. Our young people are applying themselves diligently to these different lines of study, and just as soon as
their training is complete, a place is waiting for them in the
Lord's vineyard.
The purpose of this school has been primarily to furnish
recruits for the army of evangelists and teachers who are
carrying the advent message into every quarter of the islands.
And to-day 160 of its former students are faithfully up



220


Isles of Opportunity


holding the cause of truth as duly appointed mission laborers,
and hundreds are stanchly witnessing for the faith as laymen in the churches.
The school is intended especially for young people who
are already church members, and who look forward to entering the work, but it does not close its doors to worthy
young people not of our faith. During the first eleven years
the school had been operating, more than two hundred of
these students had been converted and baptized into the
church. We thus serve the twofold purpose of converting
our students to the faith and of training them for the work
of God.
The men and women who have connected with this institution as teachers, have loved the message more than anything else in the world. They have been fully consecrated
to their work, and the influence of their lives has inspired
their students to make the same living sacrifice for the Master. In 1928 five American families were employed in the
college, assisted by seven efficient native teachers.
From 1922 to 1927, Prof. O. F. Sevrens stood at the
head of the institution. His many years of service in the
Philippines especially fitted him to direct the training of the
young people. His untimely death in 1927 was an irreparable loss to our work in the islands. The author connected with the institution in the summer of 1921 as instructor in Bible and history, and has been able to combine
considerable departmental and pastoral work with his activities in the school.
Five other men, strong and capable, have joined the faculty in more recent years, who are devoting themselves with
whole-hearted zeal to the cause of Christian education. The
wife enters as fully into the work as does her husband. Her
efforts and ability are demanded in the capacity of preceptress, matron, nurse, and teacher.
The school has been fortunate in drawing to itself a
number of very capable native teachers, who efficiently manage the lower grades and instruct in the industries. Most
of the native teachers are themselves graduates of the insti



Training the Filipinio Youth as sMissionarics  221
tution, and their methods and ideals are entirely in accord
with the spirit of the movement. The example of their
attainments and usefulness in the cause are a constant
inspiration to the students to follow in their steps. Prof.
W. B. Ammundsen was in 1928 at the head of our Philippine
Training School.
Our students come to us from every section of the islands,
and represent all the leading dialects. It is not unusual to
have in school at one time students from seven or eight different language groups.  However, the instruction is all
given in English, as this is the language of the public schools,
and the common medium of thought for all the peoples of
the islands. Though they come from Mindanao far to the
south or from the distant valley of the Cagayan, from the
many widely scattered Visayas or from the populous provinces of Luzon, from the lofty slopes of the great Cordilleras
or from the coconut country and the coastal plains, they all
learn to speak a common language and to believe the same
teachings of the word of God.
It is our central training school in Manila, more than
any other factor, that binds together our work in all parts
of the islands. The whole Philippine field is deeply interested in the success of this school, for it is where all the
more promising young people are sent to be trained for
service. Through its influence the members of our widely
separated churches are made to feel that they are all a part
of a great united movement which is stirring not only all the
Philippine Islands, but every other nation as well.
There is a more wholesome and spiritual atmosphere in
this school than in any other institution of learning in the
islands. The truths of the word of God and the spirit of
Christian service are the principles underlying all its activities. The daily chapel period, the Friday evening social
meeting, the services of the Sabbath, and a live students'
Missionary Volunteer Society, all unite to place upon the
student body a decidedly spiritual mold.
The young people respond to all these influences with a
gratifying earnestness. Many who come to the school with



222


Isles of Opportunity


out definite religious convictions are transformed into devoted, active Christians. Wonderful changes and improvements take place in the life and character of every student.
With remarkably few exceptions, students who have attended
this school remain loyal to the truths they have been taught,
even in the face of bitter persecution from unbelieving relatives. They catch the spirit of service for others, and return
to their towns and provinces to impart to their own people
a true knowledge of the word of God.
It is the consecrated young people who have been trained
in this school that are bearing the responsibilities of the work
to-day. It is they who are scattering broadcast in all the
dialects of the islands the books that contain earth's closing
message. It is they who are becoming teachers for the still
younger members of the flock in the many church schools
that are being established. It is they who are developing
into ministers and Bible workers whose lives and labors are
after the divine order. It is they who are becoming successful leaders in the different departments of the organized
work. It is they who are daily taking up their cross, and by
a life of sacrifice and devotion proving themselves worthy
followers of the Great Missionary.
And as they go forth among their people, still other
young men and women are won to Christ, and are brought
to our school themselves to be trained. This, we believe, is
the key to the problem of reaching all the islands and peoples of this archipelago with the advent message. Our plan
is to train the young converts to the faith to become missionaries to their own people, and few of these young people ever disappoint us.
There is a much wider field opened before our believers
in the Philippines than merely evangelizing their own land.
Great as that task is in itself, there are opportunities before
them for a still greater work. In the far-flung Malayan
islands lying to the west live seventy million people with languages kindred to those in the Philippines. This vast region
is as yet almost entirely heathen. But there are now openings for the gospel in nearly every quarter.




Training the Filipino Youth as Missionaries    223


From many parts of Java, Sumatra, Borneo, and the
Celebes come calls for teachers of the gospel of Christ. Men
are shaking off centuries of Mohammedan influence, and
stepping out into the light of Christian teachings. Already
three young Filipino missionaries have been sent to labor in
the Malay States. Plans are also under way to supply Filipino evangelists for Hawaii. And we believe the time is not
far distant when these islands will become the base for missionary enterprises in many of the surrounding lands.
Our educational work in the islands is expanding year
by year. The number of young people in training is greater
each year than it was the year before. Larger numbers are
continually finishing their courses, and going out to take up
their share of the burden. Aside from the 300 students in
the college in Manila, there are nearly a thousand more in
the schools of lower grade throughout the islands. These
schools serve as feeders for the central institution. The teaching force is steadily being enlarged, and the standards of
the work raised in every possible way. And yet we are unable to supply with trained, consecrated laborers the many
calls which come in from all parts of the field.
The past fifteen years have been a most fruitful period
for the work of Seventh-day Adventists in the Philippines.
And the future offers prospects for still greater expansion.
But the needs of the field are correspondingly great. If all
the requests for qualified workers are to be answered, our
training facilities must be increased.
In its present location, the Philippine Junior College is
unable to expand. On the present site of less than five acres
are crowded together the five school buildings, our constantly
growing publishing house, and eight cottages for teachers
and other workers. Aside from being greatly cramped for
space, the college is at the very edge of a city of 350,000
people. This does not agree with the instruction we have
regarding the location of our educational institutions. Although enjoying many advantages because of our nearness
to Manila, this is not the most wholesome atmosphere for
our students.




224              Isles of Opportuntity
For several years it has been desired to transfer the
school to a more rural location, where there would be greater
space for industrial development, and where students and
teachers might enjoy the healthful environment of nature.
The uplands of the Philippines are beautiful in the extreme, and many different locations have been found which
would be ideal for the school. But as yet funds have not
been available to make this change possible. However, definite plans are now unrder way to carry out this project, and
it is hoped that another year or two will see these plans
realized.
In the Philippines, as in every other land, the youth are
the hope of the cause of God. If these can be conserved
for the work of the church, and their energies and ability
directed into the right channels, the success of the movement throughout the world field is assured. Hundreds of
keen, capable young men and women are accepting the message in these islands, and are offering themselves to be trained
for service. Practically all of those now engaged in denominational work are young men, and scores of others are getting ready.
Present facilities are being pressed to the limit in order
quickly and efficiently to fit these young people for the work.
But try as we may, it is impossible to supply men to answer
all the calls. It is difficult to keep pace with the rapid
spread of the message. We who are here are giving our
very best to the cause; but our numbers are far too few.
We appeal to the young men and women of the homeland, whose education fits them for service, and who love
the Saviour more than personal comfort and convenience, to
turn your eyes toward this most promising field. And we
call upon the faithful people of God in all our churches to
assist with your means, that facilities may be providecrfor
training the young people of the Philippines as missionaries
to their own countrymen.




I




THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
DATE DUE


JUL 02 84


0




4- l,_ p  (O 


UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 04778 6275


tI
I
1
t
I
I~
i,
I




-")~lt(~~L1
f
'\ir
C:: Ir
rs;t~i
i,;;*itt
r8~~i
g S S UOO::"?r"e:"b%
Y;, I;~~ i; i ii21 g
~: :~c:~
Lc -lii
~i,:~t~;r,:I~
~~iir;.-: ~ --- —--:?PO:
ii -:~;~:                                                                                        i"                            "                         iii~ —;;;II                              ~ii  —:-i  ii
rs; ~-,
L'r=-::::::I:'::ii..'....il I I II
i:I~;~I::;"?t::i
14&i...,.:ZU: ar," e     ik                                           ~- ~
2-: 'Yla~rr"~ -uaa;:   IbR~~~~Purt
iki
If- 
A"~- cN::,
4_v:":   `~; —