Y- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - -- I'! _____ _____________ I T 1-1 E GREAT REPUBLIC A DESCRIPTIVE, STATISTICAL AND IISTORICAL VIEW OF THIE STATES AND TERRITORIES OF THE AMNEPICAN UNION. BY; JAMES D.W McCABE, Jr. AUTHOR OF "GREAT FORTUNES, "PLANTING THIE WILDERNE8SS," "PARIS BY SUNLIGHT AND GASLIGHT,? " HISTORY OF THE WAR BETWEEN GERMANY AND FRANCE," ETC., ETC. WIT O TO U II URSatIt WITfI OVER TWO IIUNNDRED ENGRAVINGS P H I L A D E L P H I A WILLIAM B. EVAANS New York, W. D. MYERS. Bostotn, GEO. M. SMITH & CO. S(an, z'anlisco, A. I,. BANC'IOFT & CO. ON WOOD AND STEEL. ,A & c 0. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by WILLIAM B. EVANS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C. o :,- A. I }at- Co PRE Pi FACE. HAT which is most worthy of a man's study and pbservation is his own country, yet but few of the great mass of Amer icans are well informed as to the land of their birth. There is a vague idea in the minds of all that the Union is a "great country" with regard to size as well as in other respects, but they have but a faint conception of the immenseness of the Republic. A few years ago, an English traveller, who had been impressed with the magnificent extent of our country by the fatigues of a stage coach journey across the Plains, wrote as follows concerning it, and his statement seemed to take even our own people by surprise. He said: "Yes, the Republic is a big country. In England we have no lines of sufficient length, no areas of sufficient width, to convey a just idea of its size. The State of Oregon is bigger than England; California is about the size of Spain; Texas would be larger than France, if France had won the frontier of the German Rhine. If the United States were parted into equal lots, they would make fifty two kingdoms as large as England, fourteen empires as large as France. Even the grander figure of Europe fails us when we come to measure in its lines such amplitudes as those of the United States. To wit: from Eastport to Brownsville is farther than from London to Tuat, in the Great Sahara; from Washington to Astoria is farther than from Brussels to Kars; from New York to Sani Francisco is farther than from Paris to Bagdad. Such measures seem to carry us away from the sphere of fact into the realms of magic and romance. Q 3 PREFACE. "Again, take the length of rivers as a measurement of size. A steamboat can go ninety miles up the Thames, two hundred miles up the Seine; five hundred and fifty miles up the Rhine. In America, the Thames would be a creek, the Seine a brook, the Rhine a local stream, soon lost in a mightier flood. The Mississippi is five times longer than the Rhine; the Missouri is three times longer than the Danube; the Columbia is four times longer than the Scheldt. From the sea to Fort Snelling, the Missouri is plowed by steamers a distance of two, thousand one hundred and thirty-one miles; yet she is but the second river in the United States. "Glancing at a map of America, we see to the north a group of lakes. Now our English notion of a lake is likely to have been derived from Coniston, Killarney, Lomond, Leman, and Garda. But these sheets of water give us no true hint of what Hiuroni and Superior are like, scarcely indeed of what Erie and Ontario are like. Coniston, Killarney, Lomond, Leman, and Garda, put together would not cover a tenth part of the surface occupied by the smallest of the five American lakes. All the waters lying in Swiss, Italian, English, Irish, Scotch, and German lakes might be poured into Michigan without making a perceptible addition to its flood. Yorkshire might' be sunk out of sight in Erie; Ontario drowns as much land as would make two duchies equal in area to Schleswig and Holstein. Denmark proper could be washed by the waves of Huron. Many of the minor lakes in America would be counted as inland seas elsewhere; to-wit: Salt Lake, in Utah, has a surface of two thousand square miles; while that of Geneva has only three hundred and thirty; that -of Como only ninety; that of Killarney only eight. A kingd(orff like Saxony, a principality like Parina, a duchy like Coburg, if thrown in one heap into Lake Superior, might add an island to its beauty, but would be no more conspicuous in its vast expanse than one of those pretty green islets which adorn Loch Lomond. "Mountain masses are not considered by some as the strongest parts of American scenery; yet you find masses in this country which defy all measurement by such puny chains as the Pyrenees, the Apennines, and the Savoy Alps. The Alleghanies, ranging in height between 4 PREFACE. IHelvellyn and Pilatus, run through a district equal in extent to the country lying between Ostend and Jaroslaw. The MWahsatch chain, though the name is hardly known in Europe, has a larger bulk and grandeur than the Julian Alps. The Sierra Madre, commonly called the Rocky Mountains, ranging in stature from a little below Snowdon to a trifle above Mont Blanc, extend from Mexico, through the Republic, into British America, a distance almost equal to that dividing London from Delhi." Such are the territorial dimensions of our country, as measured by a foreigner, and that they are in no way exaggerated will be found by all who study the subject. But the greatness and interest of the Republic do not consist in its vast size. We have within our limits nearly every variety of climate known to man, and a soil capable of producing almost every product of the earth, from the stunted herbage of the frozen regions to the luxuriant fruits of the tropics. The ground is rich in mineral deposits, from the useful, but homely veins of coal, to beds of the most brilliant and valuable jewels. The earth yields us not only our food, but the rarest medicines and drugs. It pours out in streams oil for burning, gas that may be used fresh from the natural springs, salt that requires but the heat of the sun for its perfection, and beds of pure soda that cover the earth like the dust in the highways. In short, all that is needed for the preservation and comfort of animal and human life exists in this favored land in the greatest profusion. So much has the Creator done for us. Man has not been slow to take advantage of these blessings. In the comparatively short space of three hundred years the American people have become a mighty nation, increasing with a rapidity that is almost marvellous. They have built up the country on a scale of magnificence of which they may justly be proud. They have covered it with splendid cities, connected by a network of railways binding all the scattered parts into one solid whole. They have made a commerce and a system of manufactures before which the fabled wealth of Tyre sinks into insignificance. They have built up a literature which commands the respect of the world. They have illustrated their history'with deeds 5 PREFACE. of arms not less splendid than their more peaceful achievements, and have given to the world names in every walk of life that will never die. All this have they done, and yet the mass of them are ignorant, or but imperfectly informed, 6f the magnitude and value of their achievements. It is the object of this work to present to them at a glance the actual condition of the Republic at the present day. The Author is well aware that such a tremendous undertaking can be but imperfectly accomplished in a volume of this size; yet he ventures to express the hope that he has made the statement herein presented sufficiently complete and comprehensive to be of service to the reader. The tables and other statistics in the body of the work are mainly from the latest State reports available. The Author would here express his obligations to General Francis A. Walker, the accomplished superintendent of the census of 1870, for assistance received from him in the collection of statistics. For miore detailed information than is presented within these pages, the reader is referred to "Lippincott's Gazetteer," and the "New American Cyclopaedia," to which works the Author is indebted for valuable assistance. It is hoped that the Illustrations will aid in bringing to the mind of the reader a vivid picture of the busy, restless, energetic Republic of the West, and also to render him more familiar with some of the charms of American scenery. J. D. MCC., JR. NEW YORK, November'25th, 1871. 6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAGI 1. Indians Viewing the Pacific Railroad.................................Frontispiece. 2. Rapids of the St. Lawrence............................................................................ 51 3. A View on the Alleghany Mountains............................................................... 59 4. A View on the Rocky Mountains.................................................................... 61 5. An American Caion in the Rocky Mountains................................................... 6. A Western Homestead.................................................. 76 7. View on the Hudson River, showing the Steamboat, Telegraph, and Railroad......... 83 8. An Indian Village in Winter......................................................................... 103 9. Ruins of Jamestown, Va................................................. 107 10. Plymouth R o c k........................................................................................... 109 11. First Settlement of New York C i t y.................................................................. 111 12. First Settlers Clearing Land........................................................................... 113 13. Indians Burning a Prisoner.......................................................................... 14. Burning of Deerfield, Mass.............................................. 117 15. Ruins of Ticonderoga................................................................................... 128 16. Independence Hall in 1776............................................................................ 131 17. Scene of the Battle of Lake Champlain............................................................ 146 18. Plain of Chalmette: Scene of the Battle of New Orleans..................................... 148 19. An American F o r e s t..................................................................................... 165 20. Lumbering in Maine................................................... 169 21. Lumberman's Camp..................................................................................... 172 22. City Hall, at Portland, Maine........................................................... 184 23. Scene on the White Mountains...........................................,,. 191 24. State House, Concord, N. H........................................................................... 200 25. A View of Montpelier, Vt............................................................................. 213 26. A View of Rutland, Vt.................................................................................. 216 27. Harvard University, Cambridge, Mass............................................................. 229 28. A View of Boston........................................................................ 237 29. State House, at Boston.............................................................................. 239 30. Faneuil Hall, at Boston........................................................... 240 31. Bunker Hill Monument, at Boston................................................................. 248 32. Pacific Mills, Lawrence, Mass....................................................................... 257 33. A View from Greenfield, Mass........................................................................ 258 34. Coast Fishing............................................................................................. 280 35. Narragansett Bay, R. I.................................................................. 282 36. Newport, R. I.............................................................................................. 285 37. View from Mount Holyoke, Conn......................................... 293 38. Yale College, New Haven, Conn..................................................................... 300 39. New Haven.......................................................... 306 40. A View of New York City............................................................................. 323 41. A Scene in the Catskill Mountains.................................................................. 324 7 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAG. 42. A View on the Hudson River...................................................................... 329 43. Scene on Lake George.................................................................................. 330 44. The Falls of Niagara................................................................................... 333 45. New York City in 1664................................................................................. 349 46. A View of Albany, N. Y............................................................................... 353 47. Scene on Broadway, New York C i t y................................................................ 358 48. Scene on Fifth Avenue, New York C i t y............................................................ 360 49. A View in Central Park, New York City.......................................................... 361 50. The Water Terrace in Central Park, New York City.......................................... 362 51. City Hall, New York City............................................................................. 366 52. Building of the Young Men's Christian Association, New York City..................... 368 53. High Bridge, at Harlem................................................................................ 371 54. Union Square and Washington Monument, New Yorlk City................................ 373 55. United States Navy Yard, Brookllyn, L. I........................................................ 377 56. View from West Point......................................................................... 380 57. Falls of Genesee, N. Y.................................................................................. 383 58. Oswvego, N. Y.............................................................................................. 388 59. Gathering Watermelons in New Jersey............................................................ 407 60. Princeton College, N. J.................................................. 409 61. Falls of Passaic, Paterson, N. J..................................................................... 418 62. A Scene at Cape May, N. J.................................................................... 420 63. View on the Juniata. River, Pa...................................................................... 431 64. The Schuylkill, above Philadelphia................................................................. 432 65. Mount Pisgah and the Coal Regions............................................................... 433 66. Deep Cut on the Pennsylvania Railroad...........................................................441 67. The Susquehanna, above Harri sburg............................................................... 443 68. A View of Philadelphia from Camden.............................................................. 444 69. Philadelphia from Fairmount......................................................................... 445 70. The Wissahickon, at Chestnut H i l l................................................................. 446 71. Philadelphia Small H o m e s...........................................................................447 72. The Ledger Building, Philadelphia................................................................. 448 73. Fairmount, Philadelphia.............................................................................. 449 74. The iVissahickon, Philadelphia...........................................................450 75. The Union League Building, Philadelphia....................................................... 451 76. The New Masonic Temple, Philadelphia........................................................452 77. Hemlock Glen, Fairmount Park, Philadelphia................................................ 453 78. Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia...................................................... 454 79. Wissahickon New Drive, Philadelphia 4......................................455 80. The Schuylkill, at the Falls, Philadelphia..............................................456 81. Chestnut Street Bridge, Philadelphia............................................................... 457 82. A Public Fountain, Philadelphia..................................................................458 83. Independence Hall in 1871, Philadelphia..........................................................459 84. A View of Pittsburg, Pa...................................................................461 85. A View of Scranton, Pa...................................................................472 86. A View of Easton, Pa.....................................................................475 87. Delaware Peach Farm..................................................................................498 88. Maryland Oyster Fishery..............................................................................505 89. A View of Baltimore.................................................................................... 518 90. Battle Monument, at Baltimore......................................................................519 91. Scene on Baltimore Street............................................................................. 522 92. Scene on Baltimore and Ohio Railroad..................................................525 93. The Capitol at Washington............................................................529 94. Columbia Deaf and Dumb Institution......................................531 8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NOl PAGE. 95. New Building of the Young Men's Christian Association, Washington............. 536 96. United States Treasury Building, Washington................................................. 546 97. United States Patent Office, Washington......................................................... 549 98. Natural Tunnel, Virginia........................................................................... 561 99. Little Stony Falls, Va................................................................................. 565 100. A View of Richmond, Va............................................................................ 576 101. Mount Vernon........................................................................................... 582 102. North Carolina Sea Coast..................................................... 598 103. Capitol at Raleigh, N. C................................................. 607 104. Scene near Beaufort, S. C............................................................................. 613 105. Rice Fields................................................................................................ 616 106. Charleston, S. C......................................................................................... 625 107. Falls of the Towalaga, Georgia.................................................................... 633 108. Savannah, Georgia..................................................................................... 642 109. St. John's River, Florida............................................................................. 651 110. St. Augustine, Florida................................................................................ 662 111. A Bluff on the Alabama River...................................................................... 666 112. Capitol at Montgomery............................................................................... 677 113. The Landing at Mobile.............................................................................. 671' 114. On the Shores of the Yazoo......................................................................... 682 115. Picking Cotton..........................................................................I............... 684 116. Jackson, Miss............................................................................................ 692 117. Natchez, Miss...........................................................................................693 1 18. A View of Vicksburg, Miss............................................... 694 119. A View of New Orleans.............................................................................. 698 120. Gathering Sugar Cane................................................................................ 703 121. A Sugar House.......................................................................................... 706 122. Scene on St. Charles Street, New Orleans....................................................... 716 123. Jackson Square, New Orleans.......................................................I................ 719 124. Lafayette Square, New Orleans..................................................................... 722 125. On the Gulf............................................................................................... 732 126. Galveston, Texas........................................................ 748 127. The Alamo, San Antonio.............................................................................. 750 128. Harper's Ferry, West Virginia..................................................................... 758 129. Wheeling, West Virginia............................................................................ 766 130. Nashville, Tenn......................................................................................... 786 131. Memphis, Tenn......................................................................................... 788 132. Mammoth Cave, Kentucky........................................................................... 797 133. Frankfort, Kentucky................................................................................... 805 134. Louisville, Kentucky............................................................I...................... 806 135. State Capitol, Columbus, Ohio..................................................................... 825 136. A View of Cincinnati, Ohio........................................................................ 826 137. Scene on Fourth Street, Cincinnati, Ohio........................................................ 828 138. The Tyler Davidson Fountain, Cincinnati, Ohio...................................,........... 829 139. Scene on Superior Street, Cleveland, Ohio....................................................... 833 140. Court House at Dayton, Ohio....................................................................... 835 141. State House at Indianapolis, Ind.................................................................. 848 142. Evansville, Ind........................................................................................ 850 143. New Albany, Ind....................................................................................... 85[ 144. Lafayette, Ind........................................................................................... 853 145. State House at Springfield, Ill....................................................................... 869 146. A View of Chicago................................................................................ 870 147. Trihune Building, Chicago................................................................87~ 9 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO.pa. PAGE. 148. Scene on Lake Street, Chicago.....................................................................876 149. Quincy, Illinois..........................................................................883 150. Alton, Illinois.................................................................................. 888 151. Chicago in Flames............................................................................890 152. A Western River.............................................................................899 153. Woodward Avenue, Detroit, Michigan......................................................... 909 154. A Copper Mine in Wisconsin......................................................................920 155. Madison, Wisconsin.....................................................,927 156. Scene in Milwaukee...........................................................................929 157. Falls of St. Anthony, Minn..................................................................935 158. St. Paul, Minn......................................................................................... 943 159. A Halt on the Prairies...............................................................................945 160. Davenport, Iowa.......................................................................................954 161. Dubuque, Iowa.........................................................................................955 162. Burlington, Iowa.....................................................956 163. Floating, Island on the Missouri River..........................................................964 164. A View of St. Louis..................................................................................970 165. Court House, at St. Louis...........................................................................972 166. St. Joseph, Mo...................................................................................977 167. Little Rock, Ark................................................................... 987 168. Helena, Ark.............................................................................988 169. Indians Attacking United States Mail Coach................................................. 170. Leavenworth City, Kansas........................................................................... 999 171. Omaha Station, Nebraska...................................................................1001....... 172. Crossing the Plains.................................................................................1002 173. Omaha City, Nebraska................................................................................1007 174. The Palisades, Humboldt River, Nevada....................................................... 1009 175. Silver Mining, Nevada............................................................................ 1011 176. Original Big Tree, California...............................................................1018 177. Hydraulic Mining.....................................................................................1024 178. San Francisco, California...........................................................................1034 179. Cape Horn...............................................................................................1045 180. An Oregon Valley................................................................................. 1056 181. Mount St. Elias, A l a s ka................................................1068 182. Sitka, Alaska........................................................................................... 1070 183. Scene in the Aztec Mountains....................................................................1072 184. Buffalo Hunting..................................................................................... 1076 185. A Canion in Colorado.................................................................. 079 186. Plowing on the Western Prairies.............................................. 1081 187. A Canion on the Rocky Mountains...............................................................1087 188. Indians Hunting Bison.................................................................. 1090 189. A Frontier C i t y................................................................................1095 190. Santa Fe, New Mexico.............................................................................1099 191. The Tabernacle, Salt Lake C i t y.................................................................1104 192. Main Street, Salt Lake City........................................................................1106 193. A Street in Olympia, Washington Territory...................................................1114 194. Prairie Dog City, Wyoming........................................................................1117 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~195 195 2 Coats of Arms of the United States, and of each State and Territory. See Table of Contents for Folios. 23.)of Contents for Folios. 10 CONTENTS. PART I. TilE UNIITED 8 TATE8 OF AMERICA. Description of the American Continent-Its grand divisions-North Ame rica-Dimensions and Divisions-The United States of North America -Description of the Great Republic —Its dimensions and political divi sions-Its population, showing the increase since 1790-The rivers of the United States-Description of the great water system of the Re public-The Mississippi-Its wonderful history-Its wealth and peculiar ities-The Missouri River-How the Mississippi Valley is drained-The other tributaries of the "Father of Waters "-'I-The Great Lakes of the North-Explanation of the mountain system of the United States-The wonders of the Rocky Mountains-Soil of the United States-State ment of the various qualities of soil existing in the Republic, and of their capacity for adding to the national wealth-Description of the climate of the United States, showing the peculiar features of each section of the country-Relative healthfulness of the various States, showing which is the healthiest-Description of the mineral wealth of the Republic, showing where the different minerals are found and in what quantities-The undeveloped riches of the country-Products of the soil-The animals of. the United States-A brief sketch of the American natural history-Characteristics of the population-The dis tinguishing marks of the inhabitants of the various States —Table, showing the arrivals and destination of emigrants since 1820-What emigration has done for the Union-The agricultural resources of the United States —List of the agricultural products, showing where each is grown, and the portion of the country to which it is best adapted Facts for producers and consumers —The manufacturing interests Rapid growth and great extent of this portion of our wealth —The com merce of the United States-Its vast proportions-Our internal im provements-History of the rise and growth of the canal, railroad, steamboat, and telegraph in this country-Our educational system Explanation of the American system of free schools-The Press-Its 11 CONTENTS. importance and power-Number of newspapers and periodicals published -The postal system of the Republic-Religious denominations, showing the strength of each religious sect in the United States-Population of the leading cities of the Union —Explanation of the Governmnent of the United States-A concise view of the Federal Constitution-'T'he Executive, Legislative, and Judiciary, and their duties-Relations of the States to the General Government-Powers and limitations of the General Government-T-he Army and Navy of the Republic-'l'heir strength —Financial condition of the United States in 18O0 —History of the United States-General view of the Indians of North AmncricaWho they wvere-Discovery of America by Columbus-Oth-er discoveries-Expedition of De Soto-Efforts of the French and Spaniards to settle the South-England alarmed-Raleig-lh's colony on Roanoake Island-The settlement at Jamestown-Voyages of Captain John Smith -First Legislative Assembly in America —-Introduction of African Slavery into Virginia-The Plymouth Colony-Landing of the PilgrimsInternal organization of the Colony, and its progress-Foundation of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay-Consolidation of the Massachusetts settlements-Settlement of Maine, Connecticut, and Rhode Island-Discovery of the Hudson River —'Ihe Dutch settle New York-History of the Colony-It is captured by the English-Settlement of New Jersey and Delaware-Settlement of Pennsylvania and Maryland-The Carolinas and Georgia colonized by the En,glish —Prosperity of the Colonies -Different cllaracteristics —Establishment of commnon schools and colleges-Troubles with the Indians-Aggressions of the Frelnch —Their success in the Mississippi Valley-They aid the Indians in their attacks upon the English-King William's, Queen Anne's, and King George's wars-Capture of Louisbourg-Trouble with the French on the OhioWVashington's journey-Military operations west of lthe MountainsBraddock's defeat-';-" The Old French War" in the other ColoniesFailures of the English-A change of ministry-William Pitt-Capture of Louisburg and Fort Duquesne —Death of Lord -lowe-Capture of Quebec-Expulsion of the French from Canada-The conspiracy of Pontiac-Services of the Colonists during the wars with the FrenchInjustice of Great Britain towards the Colonies-Resistance of the Americans-The unjust taxes-Further aggressions-The call for a Continental Congress-Meeting and acts of the first Congress-Suicidal policy of the British Government —Thle "Boston Massacre"-The tax on tea-Destruction of tea in Boston harbor-Closing of the Port of Boston-The Colonies make common cause with Massachusetts-'iThe second Colonial Congress-Its acts-The petition for redress-Stubbornness of the King-General Gag,e brings matters to a crisis-The conflicts at Lexington and Concord-'l-The beginning, of the Revolution-l'he Mecklenburg declaration of Independence-Meeting of the Continental Congress-Measures of resistance-Wasl-hing'ton appointe(d to the command of the American Army-Battle of Bunker Hlill-Organization of the American Army- Siege of Bostonr-'l'he invasion of Canada-rThe British fleet repulsed at Charleston-Vigorous measures of Congress-The 12 CONTENTS. Declaration of Independence-Battle of Long Islanld-The British occupy New York City-Gloomy state of affairs for the Colonies-Battle of Trenton-A gleam of hope-Defeat of the British at Princeton —The " Articles of Confederation" adopted-Events of the Campaign of 1777 -Capture of Philadelphia-Battles of Germantown and BenningtonSurrender of Burgoyne's army-The treaty with France-Great Britain's efforts at conciliation-Too late-The winter at the Valley Forge-Arrival of the French fleet-Battle of Monmouth-Capture of Savannah by the British-Naval affairs-lThe British take Charleston, S. C.-Partisan war in the South-Gates defeated at Caminden-Battle of King's Mountain-Greene sent to the Carolinas-Treason of Arnold-Battles of the Cowpens and Guilford Court House —Washington goes after Cornwallis-Siege of Yorktown-Surrender of Cornwallis-The close of the war-Condition of the country-Organization of the Republic of the United States-Adoption of the Federal Constitution-Washiington's two Administrations-Admission of new States-Washington retires to private life-Administration of John Adams-War with France-The Administrations of Jefferson-Political disputes —Purchase of Louisiana-The affair of the Chesapeake and the Leopard-British and French outrages upon American commerce-'The Embargo —James Madison elected President-The second war with England-Its events by land and sea-The battle of New Orleans —The peace of 1815-'I'he Barbary States chastised-The Hartford Convention-Reelection of Mr. Madison-The Bank of the United States-Admission of Louisiana and. Indiana-Mr. Monroe elected President-Admission of Mississippi, Illinois, Alabama, Maine, and Missouri into the Union-The slavery excitement-'The "Missouri Compromise "-'T'he "Monroe Doctrine " John Quincy Adams elected President-The Tariff question-Administration of Andrew Jackson The National Bank question-the Nullification troubles-Firmness of the President-His opposition to the National Bank-He removes the public funds —The National Debt paid —Admission of Arkansas and Michigan-Election of President Van BurenThe commercial crisis of 1837-Election of President Harrison-Death of General Harrison-John Tyler becomes President-His Administration-Admnission of Texas-Jamies K. Polk elected President-The war with Mexico-Results of the war-Settlement of the Oregon question -Admission of Wisconsin-General Taylor elected President-The "Wilmot Proviso "-Discovery of gold in California-Admission of Californria into the Uniorn-Political strife-The "Compromise of 18.50"Death of General T''aylor-Mr. Filnore's Administration-The Japan e — pedition-Election of President Pierce-'I-The Kansas-Nebraska controversy-The Republican party-The anti-slavery agitation increasesEfforts to purchase Cuba-Filibustering expeditions-The Know-Nothing party-Election of President Buchanan-Admission of Minnesota -The Kansas war-The Mormon troubles-The John Brown affairThe Presidential contest of 1860 —Threatening condition of public affairs-Election of President Lincoln-Secession of the Southern States -The Civil War................................ Pages 29 to 162 13 CONTENTS. PART II. THE NEW ENGLAND 8TATES. MAINE. Area in square miles-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-De scription of the topography of the State —Its bays, islands, rivers, moun tains, and lakes-The woods of Maine-Their beauty and resources Description of the lumber region-The minerals of Maine-Agricultural resources of the State-Its commerce and manufactures-Internal im provements-Tlie railroads of Maine-The Common School system — Explanation of its features-Statement of the schools and colleges of the State-Its newspapers and libraries-The penal and charitable in stitutions-Religious denomninations-Financial condition of the State Explanation of the State Constitution and Governmenlt-History of Maine —The visit of Gosnold-First settlement of Maine-Its early history-Period of th]e Revolution-Admission into the Union as a State-Inroads of the Rebels-Statement of troops furnished to the United States Army during the Civil War-The chief cities and towns Description of Augusta-Portland-Bangor-The story of Arnold's march to Quebec....................................... Pages 163 to 188 NEWV HAMPSHIRE. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Description of the topography of the State-The White Mountains and their beauties''The lakes and rivers of thie State-The Isle of Shoals —The agricultural products-Description of the soil of the State-Commerce and manu factures-Internal improvements —The educational systemi-Description of the penal and charitable institutions and their present condition-Re ligious denominations-The State Government-Explanation of its va rious features-History of New Hampshire-First settlements at Dover and Portsmnouth-Trouble with the Indians-The Revolution-Enters the Union-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Concord, Manchester, Portsmouth, and Dover-Story of the burning of Dover by thle Indians.................................... Pages 189 to 204 VERMONT. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Physical features of Vermnont-The Green MAountainis-Lake Champlain —Mineral wealth Climate -Description of the soil -Agricultural products in detail Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-The Free School system-The charitable aind penal institutions-Religious denominations -Financial condition of the State -Its government and internal system —History of Vermont-First settlement-Troubles with New York-The Revolutionl-Capture of Ticonderoga-Ethan Allen and 14 CONTENTS. the Green Mountain boys-Vermont refuses the British offers-Admission into the Union-War of 18l2-15-The St. Albans affair-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of the principal citiesMontpelier-Burlington-Rutland-Bennington-The battle of Bennington-The taking of Ticonderoga.................... Pages 205 to 221 MASSACHUSETTS. Area-Population in 1870 —Position upon the globe-Description of the to pographical features of the State-Its islands, bays, rivers, mountains and lakes-Beauty of the scenery of Massacl-husetts-Its mineral wealth -Climate-Description of the soil-Its agricultural wealth-Commerce -The vast manufacturing system of the State-Its internal improve ments-The Free Schools of Massachusetts-A noble system of public education-Harvard University —Penal and charitable institutions-Re ligious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of Massachusetts-Discovery-Gos nold's Colony-Landing of the Pilgrims-Growth of the Plymouth Colony-Settlement of Massachusetts Bay-Troubles with the Indians Internal troubles-Accession of William and Mary-Consolidation of the Colonies-The Salem Witchcraft-Wars with the French and In dians-Resistance to the injustice of Great Britain-The Revolution Massachusetts enters the Union-Shays's Rebellion-War of 1812-15 -Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Boston-An inside view of the Metropolis of New England-Its public institutions -Its characteristics, sights, habits etc.-History of the city of Boston from its settlement to the present day-Roxbury and Dorchester-Story of the Boston Massacre-Destruction of tea in Boston harbor-Charles town-Bunker Hill Monument-Battle of Bunker Hill-Cambridge Harvard University-Lowell-An inside view of the factories of Lowell -Factory life-Lynn-The shoe trade-Lawre~nce-Its factories —Wor cester-Springfield-The United States Armory-Taunton-Salem Plymouth —Miscellanies-Arrival of the Pilgrims at Cape Cod-'T'he first Sabbath in New England-The first crimes in New England-Story of the Salem Witchcraft-A wonderful relation-Primitive extravagance -A fearful snow storm-The Men of "Seventy-Six ".... Pages 222 to 273 RHODE ISLAND. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe —Topographical sketch of the State-Minerals-Climate-Soil and agricultural products -Commerce-Importance of Rhode Island as a manufacturing State Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and charitable in stitutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Government-History of Rhode Island-Settlement by Roger Williams-Early years of the Colony-Death of King Philip Colonial history-The Revolution —Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Providence-Newport-The most fashionable wa tering place in America-Early history of Newport-Seizure of General Prescott-Destruction of the Gasp6e.................... Pages 274 to 291 .0 15 CONTENTS. CONNECTICUT. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical features of the State-Mineral wealth of Connecticut-Climnate-De scription of thle soil and agricultural products of the State —Coimmerce -Manufactures-Interesting details of the factories of Connecticut — Internal improvements-'The Common School system of the State-A noble school fund-Yale College-Penrial and charitable institutions The system of instruction for the deaf and dumb- Religious denomiina tions-Finances of the State-Its debt and annual expenses-Explaiia tion of the State Governmrent-History of Connecticut-Dutch settle ments-'-The English in Conrnecticut-Founding of Hartford and New Haveii-Wars with the Pequots-The affair of the Charter Oak-Colo nial history —The Revolution-Troops furnished during the Civil War -Description of New Haven-Yale College and its history-Capture of New Haven by the British-IHartford-Extracts from the old laws of the city-Norwich-Bridgeport-Waterbury-New London-Norwalk -Middletown-'I'The Blue Laws of Connecticut-The Regicides-The penalty for kissing-The Dark Day-Anmerican Independence-Election day in the olden time................................... Pages 292 to 319 PART III. THE MIDDLE 8TATES. NEW YORK. Area-Population in 1870 —Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-'The Hudson-The Catskills-Lake Ge6rge-Niagara Falls —Long Islarid-Mineral Wealtli-Climate-Soil and productions of the State-Statement of the foreign and domestic conmmerce of New York-Manufactures-Magnificent system of internal improvements — The Erie Canal-Educational systemn-The free schools-The colleges -Newspapers and periodicals-Penal and charitable institutions-A noble system-Religious denominations —Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of New York -Discoveries of Champlain and Hudson-The Dutch at Manhattan Is land( and Fort Orange-'-The Province passes into the hands of the Eng lish-Early troubles-Injustice of the Crown-Wars with the Indians and the French-The Revolution-Controversy with Vermont settled War of 1812-15-Internal improvements begun —Completion of the Erie Canal-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description and history of Albany-The city of New York-Description of it-The Me tropolis of the Union-Its palaces of trade and art-Trhe Central Park — Commercial importance of the city-T'he ferry system-Places of amusemnents-Public buildings-Schools-Scienitific, literary and bene 16 CONTENTS. volent institutions-Prisons-Croton water-History of the city of New York-Brooklyn-The city of churches-The United States Navy Yard -Prospect Park-Buffalo-Its commercial importance-RochesterTroy-Syracuse-Salt works-Utica-Oswego-Ancient laws of New York-Old time customs of New York City-The Negro Plot in New York-How Rochester was saved from the British.........Pages 321 to 403 NEW JERSEY. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-The school system-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition — Explanation of the State Governmnent-History of New Jersey- It passes into the hands of the English —The Revolution-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of Trenton-Newark-Its manufactures-Jersey City-Paterson-Elizabeth-Camden-Battle of Trenton-Mulrder of Rev. James Caldwell-A mutiny in the Continen tal Army............................................. Pages 404 to 428 PENNSYLVANIA. Area-Population in 1870-Topographical features of the State-Mineral wealth of Pennsylvania-Its extent and importance-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce-Manufactures of Pennsylvania-Internal im provements-The Canal system-The free schools and Colleges-The Press-Libraries-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denomni nations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Gov ernment-History of Pennsylvania-First settlement of the State-The grant to William Penn-Settlement by the Quakers-Philadelphia founded-Treaty with the Indians-Progress of the Colony-The Revo lution-Philadelphia occupied by the British-The whiskey insurrection -Invasion of the State during the Civil War-Battle of Gettysburg Description of Harrisburg-Philadelphia Its location-Description of the city-Its dimensions-Fairniount Park-The public buildings Markets-Schools and Colleges-Literary and scientific institutions Prisons-Hospitals and Asylums-The Press-Importance of the ma nufactures of the city-Commerce-United States Navy Yard-History of Philadelphia-Pittsburg-Sketch of its manufaetures-T'he.,American Birmingham-Scranton-Reading-Lancaster-Erie-Easton-Old time customs in Philadelphia-Massacre of Wyoming-The sermon before the Brandywine-Battle of the Brandywine-Adam Poe's fight with the Indians......................................Pages 429 to 490 DELAWARE. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Mine rals-Climate-Soil and productions-Manufactures-Internal improve ments-Educational system-Religious denominations-Finances-Ex planation of the State Governrment-History of Delaware-First settle ment-Becomes a separate Colony-'-The Revolution-The Civil War Description of Dover-lVilmington......................Pages 491 to 499 2 17 CONTENTS. PART IV. THE SOU THERN S TA TES. MARYLAND. Area —Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch -Chesapeake Bay-Duck shooting-Mineral wealth of the State Climate-Soil and productions-Manufactures-Internal improvements -The new Free School system-Colleges-Newspapers and periodicals published in the State-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of Maryland-Explanation of the State Government-History of Maryland-Settlement on Kent Island -Arrival of Lord Baltimore's Colony-Trouble with Clayborn-Reli gious freedom guaranteed-Civil War Trinmph of the Puritans-An napolis made the capital-Baltimore settled-Wars with France-The Revolution-Sufferings of the Bay counties during the war of 1812-15 -Battles of Bladensburg, Fort McHenry and North Point-The Civil War-Invasion of the State by General Lee-Battle of Antietam-De scription of Annapolis-Baltimore City-Washington Monument Public institutions and buildings-History of Baltimore-Cumber land-Frederick City-The Baltimore Riot-Anecdote of Charles Car roll.................................................... Pages 501 to 528 THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Area-Population in 1870-Diinensions-Explanation of the new Terri torial Government —History of the District-Washington City-De scription of it —The Public Buildings-The Capitol-Its magnificence without and within-The White House —The Treasury building —The Patent Office —The General Post Office-The Navy Yard —The Depart ment of Agriculture-The Smithsonian Institution —The Washington Monument-Georgetown................................ Pages 529 to 554 VIRGINIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Detailed description of the physical features of the State —Its various divisions, rivers, mountains, etc.-The Dismal Swamp —Mineral wealth of Virginia — An opportunity for capitalists —The mineral springs-Agricultural pro ducts-Commerce —Manufactures-Internal imnprovements-The educa tional system —The University of Virginia-Penal and benevolent in stitutions-Financial condition —Explanation of the State Government -History of Virginia-The settlement at Jamestown —Colonial history -Introduction of slavery into the colony-Virginia sides with the King -Treaty with the CommonweaIth-Bacon's Rebellioin-Williamsburg made the-capital —Troubles with the French on the Ohio-Washling ton's 18 CONTENTS. mission-Resistance to the aggressions of the Crown-The Revolution -The war in Virginia-Surrender of Cornwallis —Formation of the Union-War of 1812-1 5 —The Southampton Massacre-The John Brown affair-The Civil War —Principal cities —Richmond-Description of the city-Norfolk-Portsmouth-United States Navy YardPetersburg-Alexandria-Mount Vernon —'I'he home and tomb of Washington-Lynchburg-The first Legislative Assembly in America -Treaty between Virginia and England-Introduction of tobacco into Europe-Anecdotes of Patrick Henry-Speech of Logan —Washington and the Widow Custis-Death of Washington...............Pages 555 to 594 NORTH CAROLINA. Area-Population in 1870-Topographical sketch of the State-Climate Soil and productions-Natural growth of North Carolina-Mineral deposits-Manufactures-Commerce-Internal improvements-Educa tional system-The free schools-University of North Carolina-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condi tion of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of North Carolina-The Colony on Roanoke Island —'I'he grant of Charles II.-Locke's Conlstitution-Early troubles-War with the Indians Separation of the Carolinas-The Revolution-'i'he Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence-Battles of King's Mountain and Guilford Court House-Cession of Tennessee to the United States-Events of the Civil War-Description of the cities of Raleigh, Wilmington, Newberne, and Charlotte-The First English colony in America-lThe Greatest American.............................................Pages 595 to 612 SOUTH CAROLINA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Physical features of the State-The Sea Islands-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and produc tions-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal improvements-The educa tional system-The free schools —The Colleges-Penal and benevolent Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of South Carolina-Explanation of the State Government-History of South Carolina-Settlement at Port Royal by the French-The English occupy the country-Formation of the Province of South Carolina Troubles with the Indians and Spaniards-Tl'he Revolution-Attack on Fort Moultrie repulsed-Enters the Union-The Civil War-Reconstruc tion-Description of Columbia-Charleston-Detailed description of it An incident in the life of Sergeant Jasper................ Pages 613 to 63l GEORGIA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography of the State-Mineral wealth of Georgia-Climate-Soil and agricultural products-Commerce —Manufactures-Internral improvements-Educa 19 CONTRENTS. tional system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Georgia-First settlemnent-Severe conditions-They are withdrawn-Wars with the Spaniards-Introduction of negro slaveryGrowth of the Colony-The Revolution-Capture of Savannah-Removal of the Indian tribes-The Civil War-Description of AtlantaSavannah-The "Forest City" of the South-Augusta-Macon-Columbus-The Emnpress of Georgia....................... Pages 632 to 648 FLORIDA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical features of Florida-The Everglades-Climate-Description of the soil-Agri cultural products-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal improvem-nents -Educational system —Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Govern ment-History of Florida-Early settlements-Florida under Spanish rule-French settlements-Troubles with the English-Florida ceded to Great Britain-It is restored to Spain-Purchased by the United States -War with the Seminoles-Florida admitted into the Union as a State -The Civil War-Reconstruction- Description of Tallahassee —Pensa cola-St. Augustine-A peculiar city-Key West City....Pages 649 to 663 ALABAMA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography of the State-The Alabama River-Soil-Climate-Agricultural products Minerals-Manufactures-Commerce-Internal improvements-Educa tional system-Thie University of Alabama-Penal and benevolent In stitutions-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of Alabama-De Soto's expedition-Settlement of Mobile-Alabama under British rule-Indian wars-Admission of the State into the Union-The Civil War-Reconstruction-Description of Montgomery-Mobile-Battle of Horse-Shoe Bend....... Pages 664 to 681 MISSISSIPPI. Area —Population in 1870 —Position on the globe-Topography-Climate -Soil-Agricultural products-Commerce and manufactures-Educa tionral system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Financial condition — Explanation of the State Government-E-History of Mississippi —First settlements-Exterinination of the Natchez Indians —Organization of Mississippi —Admission into the Union as a State —Events of the civil war-Reconstruction-Description of the cities of Jackson, Natchez, and Vicksburg-Full account of the extermination of the Natchez Indians-Mason the outlaw.................. Pages 682 to 699 20 .0 CONTENTS. LOUISIANA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Climawe -Soil and agricultural productions-Manufactures and commerce —In ternal improvements-Educational systemn —Penal and charitable In stitutions-Religious denoniinations —Financial condition-Explanation of the State Government-History of Louisiana-Discoveries of La Salle-Efforts to settle the Province-Law's scheme-Settlement of New Orleans-Growth of the Colony-New Orleans in Spanish hands -Louisiana restored to France-History of the purchase of Louisiana by the United States-Admission of the State into the Union-Events of the Civil War-Reconstruction-Detailed description of the City of New Orleans-Its mixed population-The public buildings and In stitutions-The Levee-Commerce of New Orleans-Manufactures The Carnival-History of New Orleans-Battle of New Orleans Pages 700 to 730 TEXAS. Area-Population ill 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural products-Commerce and Manu factures-Internal improvemnents-Educational system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of Texas -La Salle's Expedition-His death-Settlement of Texas by the Spaniards-First struggle for Independence-The Texan Revolution The Republic of Texas-Annexation to the United States-Admission of Texas as a State-Events of the Civil War-Reconstruction-Descrip tion of the cities of Austin, Galveston, Houston, and San Antonio-The capture of the Alamo-Fannin's Massacre.............. Pages 7-1 to 754 PART V. THE WESTERN 8 TA TE8. WEST VIRGINIA. Area —Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Har per's Ferry-Climate-Mineral wealth —Soil and productions-Manutfac tures and commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system Penal and charitable Institutions-Explanation of the State Government -History of West Virginia-The Civil War-Separation of the West ern counties from the State of Virginia-Description of Charleston The Kanawha Salines-Wheeling- Its manufactures-Parkersburg Border life, showing the trials and mode of life of the first settlers of tle West..................................... Pages 755 to 77 21 CONTI'ENTS. TENNESSEE. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Mine ral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufac tures-Internal irnprovemnents-Educational system-Penal and chari table institutions-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Gov erninmet-History of Tennessee-First settlements-Siege of Fort London-The Revolution-North Carolina cedes Tennessee to the United States-Admitted into the Union as a State-Events of the Civil War -Description of the cities of Nashville, Memphis, and Knoxville-The boyhood of Andrew Jackson.............................. Pages 778 to 794 KENTUCKY. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Com merce and manufactures-Internal i'nprovements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Government-History of Kentucky -Early discoveries-First settlement of Kentucky-Wars with the In dians-The settlers desire a separate Governmnent-Virginia cedes Ken tucky to the United States-Admission into the Union as a State-The war of 1812-15-'I'he Civil War-Description of Frankfort-Louisville -A beautiful city-The falls of the Ohio-Importance of the manufac tures and commerce of the city-Covington-Newport-Lexington Daniel Boone's account of his adventures...................... Pages 795 to 815 OHIO. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system-The Ohio Free Schools-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denomina tions-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Gov ernment-History of Ohio-First settlements on the Ohio-Wars with the Indians-The Revolution-Cession of the North-West Territory Emigration to Ohio-St. Clair's defeat-Settlement of Cincinnati-Or ganization of the Territory of Ohio-Admission of the State into the Union-The war of 1812-15-Rapid progress of the State-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of Columbus-The State buildings-Cincinnati-Description of the city-Its commercial impor tance-The river trade-Manufactures-Pork packing-History of Cin cinnati-Cleveland -The Lake trade-Dayton -Toledo-Sandusky Memoirs of Simon Kenton —Cincinnati in 1794........... Pages 816 to 840 INDIANA. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal 22 CONTENTS. and charitable Institutionrs-Religious denominations-Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of Indiana-Settlements of the French Missionaries-Indiana under French and British rule-The Revolution -Campaign against the British by General Rogers Clarke-Wars with the Indians-Efforts to introduce slavery-Battle of Tippecanoe-War of 1812-15-Admission of Indiana into the Unlion-Rapid growth of the State-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of the cities of Indianapolis, Evansville, Fort Wayne, New Albany, Madison, Lafayette, and Terre Haute-Interview between General Harrison and Tecumseh-Capture of Vincennes........................ Pages 841 to 858 ILLINOIS. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-The prairies-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal Improvements-The railroad system-Edu cational system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denomi nations-Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition of the State Explanation of the State Government-History of Illinois-Early French discoveries- Settlements of the Missionaries-''The Revolution -Admission into the Union as a State-TThe war of 1812-15-The Chli cago Massacre-The Black Hawk War-The Mormon troubles-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Springfield-Chicago Description of the city-Situation on the Lake-Raising the grade of the city-Public buildings and institutions-Commerce of Chicago The grain trade-An elevator examined-The pork trade-Inside view of a pork house-History of Chicago-Quincy-Peoria-Galena-The lead mines-Alton-The Massacre at Chicago-Peter Cartwright and Joe Smith...................................Pages 859 to 897 MICHIGAN. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-The Northern and Southern Peninsulas-Mineral wealth-The Lake Supe rior Mines-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and' manufac tures-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and chari table Institutions-Religious denominations-Finances-Explanation of the State Government —History of Michig,an-Settlemtnents of the French Missionaries —The French in the Province-Transfer to Great Britain-Conspiracy of Pontiac-Michigan Territory organized-War of 1812-15-Surrender of Detroit-Massacre at the River Raisin- Emi gration to Michigan-Admission into the Union as a State-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of the cities of Lansing, De troit, Grand Rapids and Adrian-Pontiac's effort to capture Detroit Massacre at the River Raisin..................... -Pages 898 to 917 23 CONTENTS. WISCONSIN. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography Mineral wealth-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and charitable In stitutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State -Explanation of the State Government-History of Wisconsin-Dis coveries of the French-The Jesuit Missionaries —The Province passes into the hands of the English-Admission into the Union as a State Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Madison Milwaukee-'I'he "Cream City,"-Racine-Fond du Lac-Oshkosh The oldest man in the world......................Pages 918 to 933 MINNESOTA. Area-Population-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Falls of St. Anthony-Mineral wealth-Climate-Resort for in valids-Soil and productions-Manufactures and commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system —The free schools-Penal and be nevolent Institutions-Libraries and newspapers-Religious denominia tions-Financial condition of Minnesota-Explanation of the State Government-History of Minnesota-First settled by the Jesuit Missionaries —French settlements-A part of the Louisiana purchase The Fur trade-St. Paul founded-Admission of the State into the Union-Troops furnished during the Civil War-St. Paul-Minnea polis-Winona..................................... Pages 934 to 944 IOWA. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Com merce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Finan -cial condition of the State- Explanation of the State Government-His tory of Iowa-A part of the Louisiana purchase-Julien Dubuque The Lead Mines-'I-The Black Hawk War-Settlement of Iowa-Ad mission into the Union as a State-I)es Moines-Davenpor;-Dubuque The Lead Mines-Burlington-Keokuk-Frontier justice. Pages 945 to 9(2 MISSOURI. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Clirimate-Soil and productions-Manu factures and commnerce-Internal improvements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Li braries and newspapers-Financial condition of Missouri-Explanation of the State Governmnent-History of Missouri-First settled by the French-Under Spanish rule-Restored to France-Events of the 24 CONTENTS. Revolution-A part of the Louisiana purchase-Organization as a Territory-Slavery agitation-Tihe "Missouri Compromise "-Admission into the Union as a State-The Civil War-Jefferson City-Description of St. Louis-Rapid growth of the city-Its Public buildings and Institutions-Its commerce and manufactures-History of St. LouisKansas City-St. Joseph-Missouri during the war of 1812-15 Pages 963 to 981 ARKANSAS. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures Internal improvements-Educational system —Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Fiinancial condition of the State -Explanation of the State Government-History of Arkansas —Dis covered by De Soto-A part of the Louisiana purchase-Admission of the State into the Union-Events of the Civil War-Description of Little Rock and Helena................................ Pa,ges 982 to 988 KANSAS. Area-Population in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth —Climate-Soil and productions-Internal improvemenIts-Educational system-The Kansas free schools-Penral and benevolent Institutions-Religious denominations —Financial condi tion of the State —Explanation of thle State Government —History of Kansas-A. part of the Louisiana purchase-Made free soil by the Missouri Compromise-Organization of the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska —Efforts to introduce slavery into Kansas-Struggle in Con gress-rThe Border War-Foundation of free soil settlements-Ad mission into the Union as a Free State —Troops furnished during the Civil War —Topeka-Leavenworth —Lawrence......... Pages 989 to 1001 NEBRASKA. Area-Population in 1870 —Position on the globe —Topography-Minerals -Climate-Soil and productions-Internal irnprovements —Educationial system-Finances-Explanation of the State Governments-History of Nebraska-A part of the Louisiana purchase —Admission into the Union as a State-Lincoln-The new capital-Omaha —Nebraska City Pages 1001 to 1007 NEVADA. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-The gold and silver mines of Nevada-Climnate-Internal improvements-Educational system-Finances-Explanation of the State Government-History of Nevada-Discovery of silver-Carson City-Virginia City............................. Pages 1008 to 1015 25 CONTrENTS. CALIFORNIA. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth of California-Climate-Soil and produc tions-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal iinprovements-Education al system-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations -Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Government-History of California-Discovered and settled by the Spaniards-The Missions-Becomes a part of Mexico-Efforts to throw off the Mexican yoke-The American settlers take up arms —The war. with Mexico-Aquisition of California-Discovery of gold-Enor mous emigration-Admission into the Union as a State-Early disor ders-The "Vigilance Committees "-Description of Sacramento-San Francisco-A peculiar city-The Sand Hills-Rapid growth of San Francisco-Prosperity of the city-Its public buildings and institutions -The Chinese Marter-Commerce of San Francisco-History of the city-San Jos6-San Francisco in 1848-9-The "Vigilance Committee" Pages 1016 to 1052 OREGON. Area-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions Commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and benevolent Institutions —Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Government-History of Oregon -Discovery of the Columbian River-Expedition of Lewis and Clark -Astoria-Boundary disputes with Great Britain-The United States abandon their claim —Admission of Oregon into the Union as a State Description of Salem-Portland....................... Pages 1053 to 1062 PART VI. THE TERRI TORIES. ALASKA. I General description of the Territory-Practical value of the purchase History of Alaska-Description of Sitka.............. Pages 1065 to 1070 ARIZONA. Topographical sketch of the Territory-Its mineral wealth-Capacity for agriculture-History of Arizona-Description of Tucson. Pages 1071 to 1074 COLORADO. Description of the physical features of Colorado-The Rocky Mountains' -Climate-Great mineral wealth of the Territory-History of Colorado -Description of Denver City....................Pages 1075 to 1080 26 CONTENTS. DAKOTA. Topographical sketch of the Territory-Its magnificent river system Capacity for stock raising and agriculture-The Pioneer Schools-His tory of Dakota-Description of Yancton............. Pages 1081 to 1085 IDAHO. Description of the topographical features of the Territory-Its great-min eral wealth-Capacity for agriculture-History of Idaho-Description of Boise City....................................... Pages 1086 to 1089 INDIAN TERRITORY. General description of the Territory-Description of the Indian inhabi tants and the system of Government-Efforts to organize the Territory Pages 1090 to 1091 MONTANA. Topographical sketch of Montana-A delightful climate-Capacity for agriculture and stock raising-Mineral wealth-History of Montana Its rapid growth-Description of Virginia City......... Pages 1092 to 1096 NEW MEXICO. Topographical sketch of New Mexico-Capacity of the Territory for agri culture-Stock raising-Undeveloped mineral wealth-Hostility of the Indians-History of New Mexico-Description of Santa F6. Pages 1097 to 1100 UTAH. Description of the physical features of the Territory-The mountain system-The Great Basin-The Great Salt Lake-Irrigation necessary to the production of crops-What has been done for agriculture-Mine ral resources-History of the Territory-Salt Lake City-The Mormon capital.............................................. Pages 1101 to 1109 WASHINGTON. Topographical sketch of the Territory-The two great divisions-Climate -Agriculture —Mineral resources-The lumber trade-The Columbia River-History of the Territory-Description of Olympia. Pages 1110 to 1115 WYOMING. Description of the physical features of the Territory-Agriculture-Great mineral wealth-The Pacific Railway-History of Wyoming-Descrip tion of Cheyenne................................... Pages 1116 to 1118 I 27 t PART I. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. I THE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. THE Continent of America, though not discovered until a very late period in the history of the world, is the second in size of the great natural divisions of the earth. It extends from Point Barrow (on the north), in latitude 71~ 24' N., to Cape Froward, on the Straits of Magellan (on the south), in latitude 53~ 53' 7" S.* It is known that the extreme northern lands of America extend beyond the seventy-eighth degree of North latitude, and the islands of Terra del Fuego prolong the land two or three degrees southward of the main land; but as these form no practical portions of our great division of the globe, we shall pass them by without further discussion. The mainland, which is alone embraced in our estimate, is 10,500 English miles in length, and includes every variety of climate, soil, production, race, and natural formation known, covering as ifdoes all area of about 14,950,000 square miles. The Continent, taking this estimate as our guide, is four times larger than Europe, one-third larger than Africa, and one-half as large as Asia, including Australia and Polynesia. Its extreme breadth, north of the Equator, is between Cape Canso, in Nova Scotia, and Cape Lookout, in Oregon, a distance of 3100 miles, and very near the forty-fifth parallel of North latitude. South of the Equator it attains its greatest breadth between * This calculation does not include the regions north of Point Barrow, or the Archipelago of Terra del Fuego. I 31 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Cape St. Roque, ill Brazil, and Cape Parina, in Peru, a distance of 3250 miles, and between the fourth and seventh parallel of South latitude. The physical features of this great Continent are among the most remarkable and interesting in the world. Constituting as it does about three-tenths of the dry land upon the surface of the globe, it is, in general, a region of great fertility. With the exception of about one-seventh, the entire Continent is susceptible of cultivation, and in its natural growths it is one of the most favored lands in the world. Its mineral resources are vast and inexhaustible, and embrace nearly every geological formation known to science. On the west side, the Continent is traversed by a vast range of mountains, ten thousand miles in length, stretching from Point Barrow on the north, to the Straits of Magellan on the south, and rearing their lofty surnnmmits far above the region of perpetual snow. The rivers, bays, and lakes of America are the most magnificent and extensive in the world, and afford commercial advantages of the highest order. The Continent consists of two great peninsulas, known as North America and South America, connected by an isthmus called Central America. The relative importance of its great divisions may be seen from the following table, in which North and Central America are counted as one division: English Square Miles. North America,.............7,400,000 South America.............. 6,500,000 Islands,................ 150,000 Greenland, and the islands connected with it,. 900,000 Total...............14,950,000 As it is not our purpose to devote any portion of this work to the other divisions of the Continent, we pass at once to i brief consideration of the division of NORTH AMERICA. Including Central America, this great division of the Continent lies between the sixth parallel of North latitude and the Arctic Ocean. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and South America, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its length on the Atlantic side, from Hudson's Straits to the Florida Channel, 32 THE UNITED STATES. following the indentations of the coast, is about 4800 miles, and fronm thence to Panama about 4500 more, making a total length of 9300 miles. On the Pacific side, the length, counting the coasts of the Gulf of California, is 10,500 miles. The north and northeast shores are reckoned at about 3000 miles, which gives a total coast line of about 22,800 miles. According to Professor De Bow, the Superintendent of the Seventh Census of the United States, North America comprises an area of 8,377,648 square miles, an estimate which exceeds that already given by us. It is subdivided by him as follows: Square Miles. ....... 3:050,398 ....... 3,306,865 ....... 1,038,834 ....... 394,000 ........... 384,000 ....... 203,551 8,377,648 British America,...... United States......... Mexico.......... Russian America,*..... Danish America (Greenland). Central America,....... The country lying north of the United States, and known as British America, extends from the States to the Arctic Ocean. It is settled thickly along its southern and eastern borders, but the remainder is a vast, untamed region, too cold for colonization by Europeans, and inhabited only by a hardy race of Indians, and by a few whites engaged in the fur trade. The country along the southern and eastern borders, however, is of the greatest importance. It possesses a population of over three millions, and will compare favorably in its civilization and material prosperity with the States adjoining it. South of the United States is a vast region, nominally a Republic, but in reality a country afflicted with chronic anarchy called Mexico. Its people number nearly eight millions, and consist of a mixture of Spanish and Indians. They are but little more than half civilized, and are utterly incapable of conducting the government or developing the resources of their country, naturally one of the richest and most productive in the world. * Now a part of the United States, and known as Alaska. 3 33 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Is the namne given to the great and powerful Republic, occupying the central portion of Northl America, and lying between Mexico and British America. The Republic lies between latitude 240 30' and 49~ N., and between longitude 66~ 50' and 124~ 30' W. It is bounded on the north by British America, and is partly separated from that country by the River Saint Lawrence, and Lakes Superior, Huron, Saint Clair, Erie, and Ontario; on the east by the Atlantic Ocean; on the south by Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico; and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. It has recently added to its territory that country formerly known as Russian America, now called Alaska, lying along the Pacific and Arctic Oceans, and between the fiftyeighth and seventy-second parallels of North latitude, and the one hundred and fortieth, and one hundred and seventieth degrees of West longitude. DIMENSIONS. This vast region covers an area of 3,306,865 square miles, and comprises nearly one-half of North America. Its extreme length, from Cape Cod, on the Atlantic, to the Pacific Ocean, is about 2600 miles, and its greatest breadth, from Madawaska, in Maine, to Key WVest, in Florida, is about 1600 miles. Its northern frontier line measures 3303 miles, and its southern line 1456 miles. Following the indentations of the shore, its coast line on the Atlantic is 6861 miles, on the Pacific 2281 miles, and on the Gulf-of Mexico 3467 miles, making a total coast line of 12,609 miles. The shores of the Pacific are bold and rocky, and are marked by comparatively few indentations. The principal are San Francisco Bay and the Straits of San Juan de Fuca. On the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, the shore is generally low, and deeply indented by numerous inlets, the principal of which are Passamaquoddy, Fenchman's, Penobscot, Casco, Massachusetts, Buzzard's, New York, Raritan, Delaware, and Chesapeake Bays, and Long Island, Pamlico, and Albemarle Sounds, on the Atlantic; and Tampa, Appalachee, Appa 34 TIlE UNITED STATES. lachicola, Pensacola, Mobile, Black, Barataria, Atchafalaya, Vermilion, Galveston, Matagorda, Aransas, and Corpus Christi Bays, on the Gulf of Mexico. POLITICAL DIVISIONS. The Republic consists of thirty-seven States and nine Territories. These are the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Florida, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska, Nevada, California, and Oregon; and the Territories of Arizona, Dacotah, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, and Washington. Besides these are the Indian Territory and Alaska. For convenience, the States are usually subdivided as follows: THE NEW ENGLAND STATES:-Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut. 6. THE MIDDLE STATES:-New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware. 4. THIE SOUTHERN STATES:-Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas. 10. THE WESTERN STATES:-Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, California, Oregon, Nevada, Nebraska, West Virginia. 17. POPULATION. The following table will show the relative size and importance of the States and Territories, together with their population, and the date of their admission into the Union: 35 86 ~~T1lE GR~EAT P,EPUBLIC. - -... - . 0)Co0)Co0) 0)0)-0)0)0)0) 0)- 0)0) 0) I . Co .0). 0)0)0)0)0) . W0)0)0) - ~ 0) 0) ~ 0)0) ~ Co Co 0) Co 0) Co ~ Co Co 0) Co - Co 0 - Ab~out 900,000 ~,-,,-~-,~~~~-,~~~-.,,1 ____ 0)~~0)0)Co0)~~0)~Co0)~ 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0) i-:)))::::. _____ 0)I~~~~~~~~~~~~~0)0)0)0)~~~~~~~~~~~~ 0) ~~~~~t 0)~~0)0)~~~~0): ~~ 0)0) Co 0)0)00 ~~~~~~ Co ~' 0) - 0) 0)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~t 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) Co 0) -1 0) 0) 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0) Co0)0)0)0)0)-I0) 0) - - 0) 0) 0) 0) -1 0) 0) 0) 0) * 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) I- -- - - 0) 0) - 0) - 0) - 0) 0) - 0) 0) - 0) - 0)0)0) 0)0) - I0) 0) - 0) Co 0)0)0) 0) 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0) Co 0) 0)0)0)0) 0)0)0) 0) 0)0)00 000) 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)Co0)0)0)0)Co0) 0) 0) - 0) 0) 0) Co 0) - - Co 0) 0) - 0) 0) 0) 0) - 0) 0) Co 0) Co 0) 0) 0)0) 0) 0) 0) 0) Co 0) 0) -- 0)0)0)0) - -- 0) - - 0)0) 0) - 0) Co 000) - - 0)0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0)0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) Co Co 0) 0) 0) Co 0) 0) 0) Co 0) 0)-i 0) 0) Co 0) - 0) 0) - 0) 0) - 0) 0) 000)000)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)Co0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)Co0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0) 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0) 0)0)0)-0)Co0)0)0)CoCo0)0)0) 0)0)0)0)0)0)0)0)Co 36 I i I I . i. I: I: 1: i: i: r I: I!: i: I i c, Iz Z11 a. II i i ' i - i I 1 9 14 4 a I. b, I THE UTNITED STATES. RIVERS. The topographical features of the United States are varied and interesting, consisting of immense chains of mountains, numerous rivers, bays, and lakes, and vast plains inhabited only by savages and wild beasts. The majority of the bays along its coasts are the outlets of the great rivers of the Republic. These rivers may be divided into four distinct classes, viz: I. The Mississippi and its tributaries. II. The rivers which rise in the Alleghany chain and flow into the Atlantic Ocean. III. The rivers rising in the Southern States, and flowing into the Gulf of Mexico. IV. The rivers which flow into the Pacific Ocean. The rivers of the first class are the Mississippi, Missouri, Wiscolisin, Iowa, Illinois, Ohio, Yazoo, Minnesota, Des Moines, Arkansas, and Red. Those of the second class are the Penobscot, Kennebec, Connecticut, Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna, Potomac, James, Chowan, Roanoke, Pamlico or Tar, Neuse, Cape Fear, Great Pedee, Santee, Savannah, and Altamaha. Those of the third class are the Appalachicola, Mobile, Sabine, Trinity, Brazosi Colorado, and Rio Grande. Those of the fourth class are the Columbia, San Joaquin, and the great Colorado of tile WVest, the last of which flows into the Gulf of California. THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER Is the most important stream in the United States, and, together with its main branch, the Missouri, is the longest in the world. Its name is derived from an Indian word, signifying "The Gret Father of Waters." The Mississippi proper is the smaller branch (the Missouri reaching farther back into the interior), and it is somewhat singular that it should have given its name to the whole stream. It rises in Itasca Lake, in the State of Minnesota, in a region known as the Hauteurs de Terre, 1680 feet above tide level, in latitude 47~ 10' N., and longitude 94~ 55t W. From this point it flows in a generally southward direction, emptying into the Gulf of Mexico in latitude 29~ N. Its total length, from its source to its mouth, is estimated at 2986 miles. 37 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The main branch is called the Missouri River above the point of its junction with the smaller branch. The two rivers unite a short distance above the city of St. Louis. Under the present heading it is our purpose to treat of the Mississippi proper, reserving the Missouri for discussion farther on. The Mississippi constitutes the great centre of a gigantic system of rivers, all of which unite in one grand channel and empty their waters into the Gulf. The area drained by them comprises a very large portion of the interior of North America. The tributaries of the great river find their way to it through rich and populous States, and between its source and its mouth it collects all the waters (with the single exception of those rivers flowing directly into the Gulf) of the immense region lying between the Alleghany and the Rocky Mountains. This region is usually known as the Mississippi Valley. Its southern boundary is the Gulf, and its northern limit the high hills in which rise the streams flowing into the Arctic Ocean and the lakes of British America. According to Charles Ellet, this region covers an area of 1,226,600 square miles, above the mouth of the Red River. The river, with its tributaries reaching far back into the neighboring States and Territories, furnishes a system of inland navigation unequalled by any in the world. Steamers ascend the Mississippi itself from its mouth to the Falls of St. Anthony, ini Minnesota, about 2200 miles, and above the falls the river is navigable for a considerable distance. In 1858 a steamboat succeeded in ascending the stream to near the forty-ninth degree of north latitude. The Missouri is navigable to the foot of the Rocky Mountains; the Ohio, to its head, at Pittsburg, Pennsylvania; and the Arkansas and the Red, each for more than 1000 miles. By means of the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers, the mountains of East Tennessee have water transportation to the Gulf; and the Illinois River steamers penetrate to the country just back of Lake Michigan. These rivers are all more or less crowded with steamers and other craft, plying a trade in comparison with which the fabled wealth of Tyre sinks into insignificance. Numerous other branches of less extent empty into the main river, all of which are navigable to a greater or less degree. Below the mouth of the Red River, the main stream is divided into numerous branches, which are called bayous. Some of these, after pursuing an erratic course, find their way back to the Mississippi, while others 38 THlE UNITED STATES. follow an independent course to the Gulf. The most important of these bayous is the Atchafalaya. The country lying between this stream (after its departure from the great river), the Mississippi) and the Gulf, is known as the Delta of the Mississippi, The Delta is about 200 miles in length, with an average width of 75 miles. It comprises an area of 15,000 square miles, and is conmposed entirely of alluvion, the depth of which is estimated at 1000 feet. "The debris carried along with the flood is principally deposited near the borders of the stream, the necessary result being that these portions have been raised to a much higher level than the adjoining lands. In some places the slope is as much as eighteen feet in a distance of a few miles. The interior consists of vast swamps covered with trees, of which the tops only are visible during the floods. The river, for almost fifty miles from its mouth, runs nearly parallel with the Gulf of Mexico, from which it is separated at particular places by an embankment only half a mile across." The alluvion plain extends above the Delta to a formnation called the Chains, 30 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, a distance estimated at a little over 500 miles. The average breadth of this plain, which has been formed by the river itself, is about fifty miles, and its total area, including the Delta, about 31,200 square miles. Its height, at its northern extremity, according to Prof. Charles Ellet, jr., is 275 feet above the level of the sea. It descends this plain to the Gulf at the rate of about eight inches per mile. Its average descent along its entire course is about six inches to the mile. The river is very tortuous, especially after passing the mouth of the Ohio. Its curves are immense, often traversing a distance of twentyfive or thirty miles, in a half circle, around a point of land only a mile, or half a mile in width. Sometimes, during the heavy freshets, the stream breaks through the narrow tongue of land, forming a "cutoff," which frequently becomes a new and permanent channel, leaving the old bed a "lake," as it is called by the boatmen. But for the height of the banks, and the great depth of the river, the formatiou of these "cut-offs" would be quite frequent, and the stream would be constantly changing its course. Attempts to form "cut-offs" by artificial means have generally failed. The river is remarkable for the constancy with which it maintains its average breadth of about 3000 feet. It rarely exceeds or falls short of this breadth except in the curves, which frequently broaden to near a mile and a quarter. The current is sluggish, except at high water, its depth at ordinary stages 39 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. being 75 feet at the head of the plain we have described, and 120 feet at its foot. Were the stream straighter, its current, which is now checked by the bends, would no doubt be too swift for navigation, and commerce would suffer. "One of the most important facts in regard to the Mississippi is, that it flows from north to south. A river that runs east or west has no variety of climate or productions from its source to its mouth. The trapper and husbandman descending the'Father of Waters,' constantly meet with a change of climate; they take with them their furs and cereal grains, the products of the North, to exchange for the sugar and tropical fruits that are gathered on the banks below. Again, the floods produced by winter snows and spring rains cannot be simultaneously discharged. The course of the stream being from north to south, spring advances in a reverse direction, and releases in succession the waters of the lower valley, then of the middle section, and finally the remote sources of the Mississippi and its tributaries. It is a remarkable fact that the waters from this last-named region do not reach the Delta until upwards of a month after the inundation there has been abating. The swell usually commences toward the end of February, and continues to rise by unequal diurnal accretions till the 1st of June, when it again begins to subside. No experience will enable a person to anticipate, with any approach to certainty, the elevation of the flood in any given year. In some seasons the waters do not rise above their channels; in others, the entire lower valley of the Mississippi is submerged. Embankments, called levees, have been raised from five to ten feet high on both sides of the stream, extending many miles above and below New Orleans. By this means the river is restrained within its proper limits, except at the greatest freshets, when the waters sometimes break over, causing great destructi(on of property, and even loss of life. The average height of tlhe flood, from the Delta to the junction of the Missoari, is about 15 feet; at the mouth of the latter river it is 25 feet; below the entrance of the Ohio, the rise is often 50 feet; at Natchez, it seldom exceeds 30 feet; and at New Orleans is about 12 feet. This diminution is supposed to result from the drainage through the Atchafalaya, Bayou La Fourehe, and other channels breaking from the lower part of the river to the Gulf of Mexico. The flood often carries away large masses of earth with trees, which frequently become embedded in the mud at one end, while the other floats near the surface, forming snags and( sawyers." * These snags are very dangerous to steamers navigating * Lippincott's Gazetteer. 40 THE UNITED STATES. the river, and formerly caused many terrible accidents. Recently they have been removed to a great extent by snag-boats and improved machinery. The Mississippi empties itself into the Gulf through several mouths, which are termed Passes. The navigation is here very seriously obstructed by numerous bars, formed by the gradual deposit of the sediment with which the water is heavily charged. These render it impossible for vessels of the largest class to reach New Orleans. Over these bars there is a depth of water, varying greatly at different times, and often measuring only fifteen feet. Steam tugs can force vessels drawing two or three feet more than the actual depth, through the soft mud of the river bed. Repeated efforts have been made to deepen the passes by dredging, but the channel has filled up again so rapidly as to make all such efforts futile. It was once attempted to deepen the South West Pass (the principal mouth) by driving piles along each side. It was thought that by thus confining the stream within a limited width, it would of itself excavate a deep channel. The effect, however, was to force the bulk of the flow through another mouth called Pass a l'Outre, which for the time became a better channel than the South \West Pass. The navigation of the Upper Mississippi is broken in several places by falls and rapids, of which the principal are the Falls of St. Anthony, above St. Paul, Minnesota.* The Mississippi River was discovered by Hernando de Soto, in June 1541. He reached it, it is supposed, at a point not far below the present town of Helena in Arkansas. In 1673, Marquette and Jolliet descended the stream to within three days' journey of its mouth; and in 1682, La Salle passed through one of its mouths to the Gulf, and took possession of the country along its shores, in the name of the King of France. In 1699, Iberville built a fort on the river; in 1703, a settlement was made on the Yazoo, a tributary, and called St. Peter's; and in 1718, the city of New Orleans was laid out. The levees of the lower Mississippi were begun in that year, and finished in front of New Orleans about 1728. The subject of the free navigation of the river occupied the earliest attention of the United States, and was the principal cause of the acquisition of I,o6uisiana, by purchase from France. The battle of New Orleans (as it is called) was fought on its banks on the 8th of January 1815. During * The prominent points along the river will be described in the chapters relating to the States. 41 4 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the late war, the Confederates undertook to close the navigation of the river, and succeeded in doing so for more than two years, when the control of it was wrested from them by the Union forces. A number of severe engagements were fought on its banks, the principal of which were the battle of Belmont, in Missouri, and the conflicts at Island No. 10, Fort Pillow, New Madrid, Memphis, Vicksburg, Port Hudson, Grand Gulf, Baton Rouge, and Forts Jackson and St. Philip below New Orleans. The principal tributaries of the Mississippi are, on the east, the Wisconsin, Illinois, Ohio, and Yazoo; on the west, the Minnesota, Des Moines, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red Rivers. The total value of the steamboats engaged in trade on the Mississippi and its tributaries, is estimated at over $6,000,000. THE MISSOURI -RIVER. Though commonly regarded as the principal tributary of the Mississippi, the Missouri is in reality the main stream, since it is longer and of greater volume than the other river. It derives its name from an Indian word signifying "Mud River." It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in the Territory of Montana, in latitude 45~ N., longitude 110~ 30' W. The,springs in which it has its source are not more than a mile distant from the headwaters of the great Columbia River, which flows into the Pacific Ocean. The Missouri proper begins at the confluence of three small streams of about equal length-the Jefferson's, Madison's, and Gallatin'swhich run nearly parallel to each other. For the first 500 miles of its course, the Missouri flows nearly north, then turning slightly to the E. N. E., it continues in that direction until it is joined by the White Earth River, in latitude 480 20' N. It then bends to the southeast, and continues in that general direction until it joins the Mississippi, near St. Louis. Four hundred and eleven miles from its source, the river passes through what is called "The Gates of the Rocky Mountains." This pass is one of the most remarkable on the Continent. For nearly six miles the rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to a height of 1200 feet. The river is confined to a width of only one hundred and fifty yards, and for the first three miles there is only one point on which a man could obtain a foothold between the rocks and the water. One hundred and ten miles below the "Gates" are the "Great Falls of the Missouri," which, after those of the Niagara, are the most magnifi 42 6 THE IUNITED STATES. cent in America. These falls consist of four cataracts, respectively of 26, 47, 19, and 87 feet perpendicular descent, separated by rapids. They extend for a length of sixteen and a half miles, and the total descent in that distance is 357 feet. The falls are 2575 miles above the mouth of the river, which is navigable to them, though steamers do not usually ascend higher than the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. The Missouri is said to be 3096 miles long from its mouth to its source, though it is believed that this estimate is a little too large. Add to this the length of the lower Mississippi, 1253 miles, and the total distance from the Gulf to the source of the Missouri, is 4349 miles-making it the longest stream in the world. It is generally turbid and swift, and upon entering the Mississippi, pours a dense volume of mud into that until then clear stream, and forever changes its hue. At the confluence of the two rivers, the water of the Mississippi refuses to mingle with that of its muddy rival, and the current of the Missouri may be easily distinguished for some distance below. There is no important obstacle to navigation below the Great Falls, except that during the long hot summers the water is apt to be too low for any but the smallest steamers, owing to the fact that in its upper course the river passes through an open, dry country, where it is subject to excessive evaporation. Below the Falls it is bordered by a narrow alluvial valley, very fertile, and capable of being highly cultivated. Back of this valley lie extensive prairies. The river is half a mile wide at its mouth, and is in some places much wider. It receives all the great rivers rising on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, with the single exception of the Arkansas River, and the majority of the streams between its own bed and the Mississippi. For the most part it flows through a savage or thinly settled region, and has but few important cities or towns on its banks. The principal of these are Omaha City, in Nebraska, Atchison and beavenworth, in Kansas, and St. Joseph, Kansas City, Lexington, Booneville, Jefferson City, and St. Charles, in Missouri. Its principal tributaries are the Yellow Stone, Little Missouri, Big Cheyenne, (greater) White Earth, Ni-obrarah, Platte or Nebraska, Kansas and Osage, on the right; and the Milk, Dacotah, Big Sioux, Little Sioux, and Grand, on the left. These streams, with the Missouri, drain the entire country north of St. Louis, and between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains-an area of 519,400 square miles. 43 TiE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE OHIIO RIVER Is the first great tributary of the Mississippi, flowing into it below the mouth of the Missouri. It was called by the early French settlers La Belle Riviere (the beautiful river), and its Indian name is said to have a similar meaning. It is noted for the uniform smoothness of its current, and the beauty of the valley through which it flows. It is formed by the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, at Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. It flows in a generally W. S. W. direction, separating the States of West Virginia and Kentucky from Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and empties into the Mississippi at Cairo, Illinois, 1216 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The total length of the Ohio is 950 miles. The length of the valley through which it flows is only 614 miles, the windings of the river making up the difference. Its average breadth is a little over 600 yards. Its elevation at Pittsburg is 680 feet above the level of the sea, at Cincinnati, 414 feet, and at Cairo, 324 feet, giving an average descent of about 5 inches to the mile. The current is placid and uniform, having a medium force of about 3 miles an hour. Lilie all the western rivers, it is subject to great variations of depth. In the winter and spring it is very high, the spring rise being sometimes as great as 60 feet; and in the summer it is so low that it may be forded in many places above Cincinnati. The writer, when a lad, has frequently waded from the Virginia to the Ohio shore. At high water, steamers of the first class ascend to Pittsburg, but at low water only the lightest draft vessels can navigate it, and even these do so at a constant risk of running on a sand bar, and being compelled to remain there until the late summer and fall rains swell the stream again to an extent sufficient to float them. At Louisville, Kentucky, the only falls of the river occur. The descent is here about 2221 feet in two miles. The current is very swift, but in high waterfirst-class steamers pass over the rapids. A canal has been cut around them to the river below, by means of which the obstruction they present to navigation has been partly overcome. Formerly the river trade was most important and extensive. Of late years, however, it has been very much reduced by the competition of the railroads, but is still immense. The Ohio, for the greater part of its course, flows through a narrow, but beautiful valley. The hills, from two hundred to three hundred feet high, are covered with an almost continuous forest of a dark rich green hue, and come down so close to the water that at 44 THE UNITED STATES. times they seem to shut it in entirely. Though beautiful, the scenery is monotonous, and is rather tame. The river contains fully one hundred islands, some of which are exceedingly valuable and beautiful. There are also a number of " Tow Heads," as they are called-small sandy islands, covered with willows, and utterly barren. Below Louisville the country becomes flatter, and by the time the Mississippi is reached, the hills have entirely disappeared. The valley of the Ohio is exceedingly fertile, and is rich in various kinds of minerals. Its principal tributaries are the Muskingum, Scioto, Miami, and Wabash, on the right, and the Great Kanawha, Big Sandy, Green,' Kentucky, Cumberland, and Tennessee, on the left. The most importanit are the WVabash, Cumberland, and Tennessee, the last of which is the largest. The Tennessee and its tributaries reach far back into the mountains of that State and Virginia, and the headwaters of the Alleghany rise in the southern part of the State of New York and in Potter County, Pennsylvania. Between them and the waters which flow into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Chesapeake Bay, there is only a slight elevation, and a distance of but a few acres. The area drained by the Ohio and its tributaries is about 200,000 square miles. The country through which the Ohio flows is a prosperous agricultural region, and a number of large and thriving cities and towns are located on its banks. Its various prominent features will be noticed in other portions of this work. THE ARKANSAS RIVER Is the next important tributary of the Mississippi below the mouth of the Ohio. Next to the Missouri, it is the longest affluent of the great river. It rises in the Rocky Mountains near the centre of Colorado, and flows easterly for several hundred miles, after which it turns to the southeast and continues in that general direction until it reaches the Mississippi, in latitude 30~ 54' N., longitude 91~ 10' W. It enters Arkansas at Fort Smith, on the western frontier, and divides the State into two nearly equal portions. In the upper part of its course it flows through vast sterile plains, but after entering the State which bears its name, continues its way through a region of considerable fertility. It is 2000 miles long from its source to its mouth, and is not obstructed by rapids or falls. It varies in width from three furlongs to half a mile. Its current is turbid and sluggish. The difference in the height of the water in the 45 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. floods and the dry seasons is about 25 feet. For the greater part of the year it is navigable by steamers for a distance of 800 miles from its mouth. The most important town on the river is Little Rock, the the capital of the State. The last important tributary of the Mississippi is THE RED RIVER. This stream is formed by the confluence of two principal branches, of which the southern and larger rises in New Mexico, a little beyond the western boundary of Texas, in latitude 34~ 42' N., longitude 103~ 7t 101" W.; the northern in Texas, in latitude 35~ 35' 3" N., longitude 101~ 55' W. These two branches unite in latitude 34~ 30' N., longitude 100~ W., in the State of Texas, and constitute the main river, which then flows nearly due east, forming the boundary between the Indian Territory and Texas. Upon reaching the Arkansas line, it passes into that State to Fulton, near the border, when it bends to the south and enters Louisiana. Then turning to the southeast, it flows across the last named State and empties into the Mississippi, 341 miles above the Gulf of Mexico. Its length, including the South Fork, is estimated by Colonel Marcy, U.S. A., by whom the river was explored, at 2100 miles-the main stream being 1200 miles long. According to this authority, the South, or main, Fork, rises in the fissures of an elevated and sterile plain, called the Llano Estacado, at an altitude of 2450 feet above the sea. For the first sixty miles the sides of the river rise from 500 to 800 feet so directly from the water that the exploring party were obliged to pass up through the channel of the stream. "After leaving the Llano Estacado," says Colonel Marcy, "the river flows through an arid prairie country, almost cntirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of light shifting sands, for a distance of some 500 miles, followinig its sinuosities. It then enters a country covered with gigantic forest trees, growing upon a soil of the most preeminent fertility; here the borders contract, and the water for a great portion of the year washes both banks, carrying the loose alluvium from one side, and depositing it on the other, in such a manner as to produce constant changes in the channel, and to render navigation difficult. This character continues throughout the remainder of its course to the Delta of the Mississippi; and in this section it is subject to heavy inundations, which often flood the bottoms to such 46 THE UNITED STATES. a degree as to destroy the crops, and occasionally, on subsiding, leaving a deposit of white sand, rendering the soil barren and worthless." Shortly after leaving its sources, the South Fork passes through a vast bed of gypsum for a distance of 100 miles, which gives to its waters an intensely bitter and unpleasant taste, causing them rather to augment than diminish thirst. The river is navigable during the greater part of the year to Shrevepl)ort, 500 miles from its mouth. Small steamers can ascend about 300 miles farther in high water. About 30 miles above Shreveport is an immense collection of rubbish known as the "Great Raft," which forms the principal obstacle to the navigation of the upper river. It consists of driftwood and trees, which have been brought down for hundreds of miles by the current, and lodged here. This raft obstructs the channel for a distance of seventy miles, and for a considerable portion of the year causes the river to overflow the country along its banks. In 1834-35 it was removed by the Government of the United States at a cost of $300,000, but a new raft has formed since then. In very high water small steamers pass around it. The principal tributaries of the Red River are the Little Washita and Big Washita. The other rivers, which are national in character-by which we mean not lying entirely or for the greater part in one particular State or Territory of the Union-are the Rio Grande, the Great Colorado of the West, the Columbia, and the St. Lawrence, the first and last of which form a portion of the boundaries of the Republic. THE RIO GRANDE Rises in the Rocky Mountains, in the Territory of New Mexico, near latitude 38~0 N., and longitude 106~ 30' W. Its course is at first southeast, then E. S. E., and finally nearly east. It forms the boundary between the State of Texas and the Republic of Mexico, and empties into the Gulf of Mexico, near latitude 25~ N., and longitude 97~ W. It is 1800 miles long, and is for the most part very shallow. Sand bars are numerous and render the stream almost unfit for navigation. Small steamers have succeeded in reaching Kingsbury's Rapids, about 450 miles from the Gulf. About 900 miles from its mouth the river is only three or four feet deep. This point is called the "Grand Indian Crossing," because the Comanche and 47 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Apachee Indians ford the stream here in their incursions from Texas into Mexico. The principal town on the river is Brownsville, 40 miles from its mouth, and opposite the Mexican city of Mattamoras. THE COLORADO RIVER, Or, as it is sometimes called, the Great Colorado of the West, to distinguish it from the Colorado River, of Texas, rises in latitude 44~ N., in Idaho Territory, and, flowing through Utah Territory, and along the borders of Nevada, California, and Arizona, empties into the Gulf of California, near latitude 32~ 30' N. From its source to the 36th parallel of North latitude, where it is joined by the Grand and Little Colorado Rivers, it is known as the Green River. It has several small tributaries between its source and the Great South Pass. At this pass, it receives the Big Sandy Creek, at an elevation of 7489 feet above the sea. Just on the other side of the mountains are the Wind and Sweetwater Rivers, two of the principal tributaries of the Upper Missouri. From the South Pass, the Colorado flows in a generally southwest direction to its mouth. It is about 1200 miles long, and, with the exception of the Columbia, is the most important stream west of the Rocky Mountains, but, in spite of its great length, the volume of water which it discharges is comparatively small. "About 490 miles above its mouth commences the great defile in the mountains called the Black Canon, 25 miles long, through which the river has forced its way. The banks in many places are very precipitous, from 1000 to 1500 feet high, and for a long distance the river is unapproachable. A steamboat under the command of Lieut. Ives, U.S. Topographical Engineers, ascended the stream early in 1858, and passing a portion of the great cation reached the head of navigation at the head of Virgen River. Few obstacles except shifting sand bars were met on the voyage. The exploiltions of Lieut. Ives, who traversed the valley of thie river from its mouth to latitude 36~ N., and the greater part of the regions along latitude 35~ and 36~ as far east as the Rio Grande, and the previous reconnoissances connected with the surveys for a railway to the Pacific, have made known interesting facts connected with the region watered by the Colorado. In its valley is found a large extent of fertile bottom land, easily cultivated by artificial irrigation. This valley varies in width from three to eight miles. The greater part of it is covered with timber, chiefly cottonwood and mezquit. Other portions are cultivated by the nu 48 THE UNITED STATES. merous trib)es of Indians who live along its banks, affording them an abundance of wheat, maize, melons, beans, squashes, etc. Cotton is also cultivated by such of the Pueblo Indians as are acquainted with the art of weaving. Some portions of the country are uninhabitable; others are rich in silver, copper, and lead, besides containing gold and mercury in small quantities. According to an estimate made by t)he U. S. officers who have explored the Colorado, there are about 700 square miles of arable land between the mouth of the Gila and the 35th parallel of North latitude. After receiving the Gila, the Colorado takes a sudden turn westward, forcing its way through a chain of rocky hills, 70 feet high, and about 350 yards inqength. In this passage it is about 600 feet wide, but soon expands to 1200 feet, which it retains. After sweeping around 7 or 8 miles, it assumes a south direction, and with a very tortuous course of nearly 160 miles reaches the Gulf of California. The bottom lands are here from 4 to 5 miles wide, and covered with a thick forest. On a rocky eminence at the junction with the Gila stands Fort Yuma. Near the fort are the remains of the buildings of the old Spanish Mission established here in the early part of the last century, and in the valley are traces of irrigating canals, which show that it has once been cultivated." * The average depth of water between Fort Yuma and the Gulf of California is 8 feet. Spring tides rise 25 or 30 feet, and neap tides 10 feet. There is regular communication by means of small steamers between Fort Yuma and the mouth of the river. At low water there is a draught of 4 feet at the Fort, and in high water 13 feet. The channel at the mouth of the river is continually changing, and has been known to shift from one bank to another in the course of a single night. There is also a heavy tidal wave at its mouth, which renders it difficult and dangerous for any but the lightest draught steamers to enter the stream. When the freshets occur, the river overflows its banks, submerges a part of the California*Desert, and fills up several basins, and what is known as New River. This water is left in the basins and New River when the main stream returns to its proper channel, and continues in them for about two years, when it is absorbed by the soil, or dried up by the sun. The mouth of the Colorado was discovered in the year 1540, by Fernando Alarchon, who undertook a voyage to the Gulf of California, by order of the Viceroy of Spain. Ile described it as "a very mighty river, which ran with so great a fury of stream that we could * Appleton's Cyclopsedia, vol. v. p. 502. 4 49 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. hardly sail against it." He sent an expedition, consisting of two boats, some distance up the river. In 1700, a Mission was established by Father Kino near the site of the present Fort Yuma, at the mouth of the Gila. The name of the Colorado signifies "the Red River," its waters being stained by the red earth along its course. Its principal tributaries are the Grand, San Juan, White, Little Colorado, Virgen, WVilliams, and Gila-Rivers. The Mohave was formerly supposed to be a tributary, but is now known to empty into Soda Lake, in California. THE COLUMBIA RIVER Is the principal body of water flowing into the Pacific Ocean from the Continent of America. It rises in a small lake on the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, about latitude 50~ N., longitude 116~ W. Its first course is towards the northwest, along the base of the Rocky MIountains, until it is joined by its most northern tributary, in about 53~ 30' N. latitude, after which it flows in a southerly direction to the 46th parallel. From this point to the Pacific it runs due west, forming the boundary between the State of Oregon and Washington Territory. It is extremely tortuous between the 46th and 48th parallels of North latitude. This is the case until Fort Wallawalla is reached. It is very rapid, and frequently passes through mountain gorges and over falls. The tide ascends to the foot of the Cascades, 140 miles from the sea. The Cascades are a series of rapids caused by the passage of the river through the Cascade range of mountains. Between each of the rapids there is an unbroken stretch of the river for about 25 or 30 miles. Steamers ply on the lower river, on the clear waters between the Cascades, and for some distance above the last fall. Passengers and freights are carried around the falls by railroad. Vessels of 200 or 300 tons burthen navigate the stream to the foot of the Cascades. For 30 miles from its mouth, thl Columbia forms a splendid bay from 3 to 7 miles in breadth, through which it discharges its waters into the Pacific. There is about 20 feet water on the bar at its mouth, but the depth of the channel is 24 feet. The principal tributaries of the Columbia are the Lewis and Clark Forks, which, uniting, form the main river, the McGillivray's, or Flat Bow River, Okonagan, Fall River, Wallawalla, and Willamette. The Lewis Fork is sometimes called the Snake River, and the Clark Fork, the Flathead River. The total length of the Columbia, from its source to the sea, is about 1200 miles. 50 TIHE UNITED') ST'I'ATES. IAPIDS OF TIIE ST. LAWPRiE1 C]]. THE SAINT LAWRENCE RIVER Forms a portion of the boundary between the United States and the Canadas, and though washing the shores of the Union for but a part of its course, cannot be passed over in this chapter. Some geograpliers, in consequence of its forming the outlet of the chain of lakes upon the northern frontier of the Union, regard it as commencing at the source of the St. Louis, which rises in Minnesota and flows into Lake Superior. Viewed in this light, it flows thlroug,h the great lakes, and its total length from the head of the St. Louis to the Giilf of St. Lawrence, would be 2200 miles. its course to the head of LJake Erie would be in a generally southeast direction; and from the head of Lake Erie to the sea, in a generally northeast direction. Viewing it in this light, we must regard the Ste. Marie, between Lakes Huron and Superior; the St. Clair and Detroit, between Lakes Huron and Erie; and the Niagara, between Lakes Erie and Ontario, as forming parts of the St. Lawrence. By the St. Lawrence Ptiver, however, is most commonly meant that portion of it lyilig, between Lake Ontario and the Gulf of St Lawrence. This constitutes a large river 750 miles long, having an average breadth of half a mile, and i) I THE GREAT REPUBLIC. navigable for steamers to the Gulf. Ships of the line ascend to Quebec, and vessels of 600 tons to Montreal, in Canada. Above Montreal the navigation is interrupted by numerous rapids, around which a canal has been cut. The river forms the boundary of the United States from the foot of Lake Ontario to the extreme northwestern corner of the State of New York. Ogdensburg and Cape Vincent are the principal American towns on its banks. LAKES. The principal lakes of the United States, are Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, Ontario, and Champlain, lying along the northern frontier, and the Great Salt Lake, in Utah Territory. LAKE SUPERIOR Is the largest body of fresh water in the world, and the principal of the chain of great lakes extending along the northern boundary of the United States. It lies between latitude 46~ 30' and 49~ N., and longitude 84~ 50' and 92~ 10' W. It forms a species of crescent, with its convexity on the north, and its concavity on the south. Its greatest length, from east to west, measured through the curve, is 420 miles, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, 160 miles. The total length of its coast line is about 1750 miles. It covers an area estimated at 32,000 square miles. It is 630 feet above the level of the sea, and has an average depth of one thousand feet. Its shape is very irregular. It is very wide at its centre, but narrows slightly towards its eastern end, and very much towards its western end. The shore on the north side is bold and rocky, and consists of almost continuous ranges of cliffs, which rise to a height varying from 300 to 1500 feet. The south shore is flat and sandy, as a general rule, but near the eastern side is broken byflimnestone ridges, which rise to a height of near 300 feet, in strange and fantastic forms, worn into numerous caverns. These have been cut by the action of the great waves, especially during the season of the floating ice, and have been colored by the continual drippings of mineral substances. From the earliest times they have been known as the "Pictured Rocks." They lie to the east of Point Keweenaw, and form one of the most wonderful of the natural curiosities of the New World. Islands are very numerous towards the south and north shores, but the centre of the lake is free from them. The islands towards the south 52 THE UNITED STATES. are generally small, but those along the north shlore are often of coInsiderable size. The largest is Isle Royal, which is about 40 miles long, and 7 or 8 miles wide. Its hills rise to a height of 400 feet, with fine bold shores on the north, and several excellent bays on the south. Near the western end of the lake is a rocky, forest-coveredl group, called the Apostles' Islands. They are exceedingly picturesque in appearance, and formn a prominent and interesting portion of the scenery of the lake. On the extreme southwestern end of the largest, is La Pointe, a famous fur trading post, and well known as the principal rendezvous for the hardy adventurers of the lake region. Lake Superior receives its waters from more than 200 streams, about 30 of which are of considerable size. These drain all area of 100,000 square miles, and furnish the lake with water remarkable for its clearness, and abounding in fish of various kinds, but especially in trout, white fish, and salmon. The rivers are almost all unfit for navigation, by reason of their tremendous currents, rapids, and rocks. The outlet of the lake is at the southeastern end, by means of St. Mary's Strait, or as it is sometimes called, St. Mary's River, which connects it with Lake Huron and the other great lakes. This strait is about 63 miles long, and enters Lake Huronl by three channels. It is very beautiful and romantic in its scenery, at some places spreading out into small lakes, and at others rushing in foaming torrents over the rocks that seek to bar its way, or winding around beautiful islands. It is navigable for vessels drawing eight feet of water, from Lake Huron to within one mile of Lake Superior, at which point falls obstruct the navigation. This part of the strait is called the Sault Ste. 3Iarie. A canal has been constructed by the General Government around the rapids. It is 100 feet wide and 12 feet deep, and affords unbroken communication between Lakes Superior and Huron. The falls have a descent of 22 feet in three-fourths of a mile, and are exceedingly beautiful. The strait also separates tle State of Michigan from Canada West. The greatest obstacles to the navigation of the lake are the violent storms that sweep over it. Until very recently it was an almost unknown region, but now there is constant steamboat communication along its entire length, and it is frequently visited by persons in search of pleasure or health. The principal export of the lake is copper, which is found in large quantities, and of a superior quality, along its shores. The total shipments of this metal, from the period of its discovery on the lake down to the close of the year 1861, amounted to over $18,600,000. 53 TiIE GREAT RiEPUBLIC. Fond du Lac, and Duluth, at the western end of the lake, are the )rincipal settlements on its shores. For many years the savage settlements along the lake were mere fishing, villages, and even at the period of its discovery, the Indians had made but few lodgments here. Attention was first drawn to it by its valuable fur trade, alnd the early Jesuit missionaries reached it about the year 1641. They established their first mission at the head of thie Bay of Pentanguishene (in Georgian Bay), and passed up in a canoe to the Sault Ste. Marie, where they found a village of 2000 Chippewa Indians, and heard from them of the great lake beyond, wvhich was explored by the missionaries about 20 years later. In 1668, a permanent mission was established at the Sault Ste. Marie, and in 1671, the region was formally taken possession of in the name of the King of France. The mines were first worked in 1771 and 1772, by an Englishman named Alexander Henry, whose enterprise proved iunprofital)le. General Lewis Cass, by order of the Government of the Untiited States, explored the region in 1820, and since then it has been growing in importance, and has yearly become better known'o the people of the country at large. LAKE HURON Is the third in size of the great inland seas we are describing. It lies between latitude 43~ and 46~ 15' N., and longitude 80~ and 84~ W.* It receives the waters of Lake Superior by the St. Mary's RIiver, and of Lake Michigan by the Straits of Mackinaw, and empties into Lake Erie by the St. Clair River. It is bounded on the S. S. W. by the State of Michigan, and on all other sides by Canada West. A long peninsula called Cabot's Head, and the Manitouline chain of islands divide it into two unequal portions. Those portions lying to the north and east are generally called Manitou (the Great Spirit) Lake, or the North Channel, and Manitouline Lake, or Georgian Bay. The general outline of the rest of the lake is in the form of a crescent, pursuing a S. S. E. an( N. I. W. course. Its extreme length, following the curve, is about 280 miles. Its greatest breadth, exclusive of Georgian Bay, is 105 miles. Its average breadth is about 70 miles, and it covers an area of 20,400 square miles. The surface of the water is elevated 19 feet above Lake Erie, 352 feet above Ontario, and 600 feet above the level of the sea. Its average depth is over 1000 feet. Off Saginiaw Bay, which indents the coast of Michigan, leads have beeni sunki 1800 feet without finding the bottom. 54 THE UNITED STATES. The waters of the lake are remarkably pure and sweet, and so exceedingly transparent that objects can be distinctly seen 50 or 60 feet below the surface. The lake is said to contain upwards of 3000 islands. It is subject to frequent fearful storms, but its navigation is not considered dangerous. Steamers ply between its various ports, and pass through the Straits of Mackinaw into Lake Michigan. There are many fine harbors onl the coast, and the local trade is important. Tile scenery is romantic and beautiful, and is much admired by travellers. The outlet of Lake Huron is by the St. Clair River, which leaves the lake on its southern extremity. It has an average breadth of half a mile. It pursues a southerly course for forty miles, forming a part of the boundary between the United States and Canada, and empties into Lake St. Clair. It is navigable for large vessels. LAKE ST. CLAIR lies between Canada and the State of Michigan, in latitude 42~ 30' N., longitude 82~ 3' W. It is 30 miles long, has a mean breadth of 12 miles, and is 20 feet deep. It is thickly interspersed with islands, and receives the waters of the Thames, Clinton, and Great Bear Creeks, and other streams. At its southwestern extreminity it flows into the Detroit River, which connects it with Lake Erie. This river is in reality a mere strait 25 miles long, and from half a mile to a mile wide. The entire passage between Lakes Huron and Erie is navigable for large vessels. LAKE MICHIIGAN Lies wholly within the limits of the United States, and is the largest lake included within the territory of the Republic. The greater portion of the lake lies bet\veen the State of Michigan, on the east, and Illinois and Wisconsin, on the west; but the upper portion is entirely withlin the State of Michigan. The lake is situated between 41~ 30' and 46~ N. latitude, and between 85~ 50' and 88~ W. longitude. It b)ends slightly to the N. E. in the upper part, and its extreme length, f,l lowing the curve, is about 350 miles; its extreme width 90 miles. It has an average depth of about 900 feet, and covers an area of 20,000 square miles. As a general rule, the shores of the lake are low, and are formed of limestone rock, clay, and sand. The san(l thrown on the east shore by the heavy seas which prevail during storms, soon becomes dry, and is carried inland by the winds, where it is piled up in hills to a height of from 10 to 150 feet. The form of these hilils is constantly changing. The lake is said to be gradually 55 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. moving westward, or, in other words, to be leaving the shore of AIl.chigan, and encroaching upon that of Wisconsin. There are very few islands in Lake Michigan, and these lie towards its northeastern extremity. It has but few bays on its shores, and still fewer good harbors. Little Traverse Bay, Grand Haven, and Green Bay are the principal. As the lake is subject to terrible storms throughout the year, it is not considered very safe for navigation. Previous to the completion of the railroads, however, its commerce was very great, and several lines of fine steamers ran between Chicago, Illinois, and Buffalo, New York, on Lake Erie. There are many steamers and other craft still on the lake, but the railroads have taken away nearly the entire passenger, and much of the freight business. Lake Michigan is connected with Huron and the other lakes by the Straits of Mackinaw, or Mackinac. The lake is usually free from ice by the last of March, but the Straits of Mackinaw are frozen over until late in April. Fish abound in the lake, are caught in great quantities near Mackinaw, and are sent to the various parts of the Union, packed in ice. The principal cities and towns on Lake Michigan, are Chicago, Racine, Milwaukee, and Sheboygan, on the west side, and Michigan City and Grand Haven, on the east side. There are 23 lighthouses and 4 beacons on the lake. LAKE ERIE Lies between Canada West, on the north, a part of the States of New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, on the south, Michigan on the west, and New York on the east. It is situated between 41~ 25' and 42~ 55' N. latitude, and between 78~ 55' and 83~ 34' W. longitude. It is elliptical in form, is 240 miles long, has an average width of 38 miles, its greatest width being 57 miles, and has a total circumflerence or coast line of 658 miles. Its depth is less than that of any of the other great lakes, being only 270 feet in its deepest portion. Its average depth is estimated at 120 feet. It is 322 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, which distance is overcome at a single effort by the falls of the Niagara. The shallowness of Lake Erie offers a great obstacle to navigation, inasmuch as the shoal portions freeze over regularly every winter. There are scarcely any naturally good harbors on the lake. Those now in use require to be deepened and protected by artificial means. Not 56 THE UNITED STATES. withstanding the fact that the railroads have drawn off an immense amount of trade, and in spite of the obstacles presented by the lake itself, its commerce is still very great. The trade of the port of Buffalo alone is estimated at over $85,000,000 annually. The total trade of the lake is over $220,000,000 annually. A large numbl)er of steamers and other vessels are engaged during the season of navigation, which lasts from about the 1st of April to about the 1st of December. The principal harbors on the American side, are those of Cleveland, Sandusky City, Toledo, Buffalo, Erie, and Dunkirk. Those on the Canadian side are Ports Dover, Burwell, and Stanley. The shores of the lake are in many places of a very unstable nature, and yield easily to the action of the water, causing frequent dangerous "slides," as they are called. Buffalo has suffered considerably from this cause. The waters abound in fish, the principal of which are the trout and white fish. Several species of pike, the sturgeon, sisquit, muskelonge, black bass, white bass, and Oswego bass are found. There are 26 lighthouses and beacons on the American, and 10 on the Canada shore. Communication is maintained between Lakes Erie and Ontario by means of the Welland Canal, which is cut through the Canadian peninsula. The Maumee, Sandusky, Grand, Huron, RPaisin, and several other rivers flow into the lake. The most violent storms sweep over it, particularly in the months of November and December, causing many shipwrecks and considerable destruction to life and property. The outlet is by the Niagara River, which commences at Black Rock, about 4 miles north of Buffalo. It is 34 miles long, and has a general northward course. About 7 miles from Buffalo, the river divides and encloses a large island, called Grand Island, 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 miles wide. Two or three miles below Grand Island are the famous Falls of Niagara, which will be described in the chapter relating to the State of New York. The giver is navigable above the falls from a short distance above the rapids to Lake Erie-nearly 20 miles; and from its mouth to Lewiston, 7 miles. It is spanned by two fine suspension bridges. On the 10th of September 1813, Commodore Oliver N. Perry, in command of a small American squadron, defeated a British fleet of superior force near Put-in-bay, a harbor among the Bass Islands, near the western end of the lake. This victory completely destroyed the British power along the shores of Michigan. 57 ,THE GREAT REPUBLIC. LAKE ONTARIO Is the smallest and most easterly of the five great lakes of America, and is situated between latitude 43~ 10' and 44~ 10' N., and between longitude 76~ and 80~ WV. It runs nearly due east and west, and divides the State of New York on the south from Canada on the northll. It is 190 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 55 miles. It covers an area of 5400 square miles, is about 230 feet above the tide water in the St. Lawrence, and has a depth of about 600 feet. It is navigable throughout its entire extent for ships of the line, and has several fine harbors, the principal of which are Oswego and Sackett's Harbor, on the New York shore, and Kingston, Toronto, and Ijamilton, in Canada. The lake is rarely closed with ice to any extent, except in the shoal water along the shore, and never freezes over. It receives the waters of the upper lakes through the Niagara, and those of the Genesee, Oswego, and Black Rivers, in the United States. It is connected with Lake Erie by the Welland Canal. It contains a number of islands, the largest of which, Amherst Island, is 10 miles long, and 6 miles broad. The waters of the lake are very clear and abound in a variety of fine salmon, trout, bass, and other fish. A number of steamers and other vessels are engaged in the lake trade, which is important, amounting to between $35,000,000 and $40,000,000 per annurnm. During the war of 1812-15, the United States and Great Britain maintained powerful fleets on Lake Ontario, and in the course of the war several severe engagements occurred on the lake between the opposing forces. Besides the five great lakes already described, there are a number of others which will be referred to in connection with the States in which they are situated. MOUNTAINS. The principal mountain ranges of the United States are the great Alleghany range on the east, and the Rocky Mountains on the west. THE ALLEGHANY OR APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS. This is the general term applied to the vast system of mountains in the southeastern part of iNorth America, extending from Maine to the northern part of Alabama, pursuing in their course a general southwestward direction. As the range passes through different 58 TU-E UNITED STATES. ALLEGIIANY MOUNTAINS. States, it is called by different names. The distance of this chain from the sea varies along its course. In New Hampshire, near its northern termination, it is less than 100 miles from the ocean, and at its southern end the distance from the sea is 300 miles. In New England and New York the chain is broken and irregular, some of its ranges running almost north and south, but in the States south of New Yorkl, the ranges are very continuous, and run for the most part parallel to the main ridge. In common usage, the term Alleghany Mountains applies almost exclusively to that portion of the range lying in and south of the State of Pennsylvania. The White MIountains of New Hampshire, and the Adirondacks of New York, are considered outliers of this great chain, as are also the Catskills, of the latter State. The entire length of the main range, not counting its lateral groups, is 1300 miles. Its extreme width, which occurs in Pennsylvania and Maryland, about half way in its length, is 100 miles. The highest summits of the Appalachian chain are MAount Mitchell, in North Carolina, 6470 feet, Mount Washington, in New HIampshire, 6226 feet, and AIount Marcy, in New York, 5467 feet, above the level of thie s ea. The entire range is rich in the most interesting' geological foriiia 59 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tions. Nearly all the minerals knownl to the Continent are found in these mountains. The scenery is grand, and the atmosphere pure and invigorating. Numerous railroads cross the range, or pierce it with their tunnels. The great western range is known as THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. These are a continuation northward of the Cordilleras of Central America and Mexico. They enter the United States at the southern extremity of New Mexico and Arizona Territories, near latitude 31~ 30' N., and pass up the entire western side of the Republic, into British America. They are divided into several ranges, and cover an area 1000 miles wide from east to west. The most easterly range extends through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana Territories, and forms the boundary between Wyoming and Idaho, and Idaho and Montana. It includes the Span ish Peaks, Pike's Peak, and the Wind River Mountains, the last of which contain Fremont's Peak, 13,570 feet high. West of this great range is a smaller one, called the WAVahsatch Mountains, lying south of the Great Salt Lake. These mountains, under other names, pass northward, to the east of Salt Lake. In Utah they cover a wide district, and their ridges spread out in various directions. The ridge known as the Uintah Mountains extends east and west. The western division of the Rocky Mountains enters the State of California from the Peninsula of Old California, and soon breaks into two ranges, the lowest of which, known as the Coast Range, runs parallel to the Pacific Ocean, at a distance of from 10 to 50 miles from the sea until the northern part of California is reached, when it rejoins the higher range, which is called the Sierra Nevada, which runs parallel to the Coast Range, at a distance of 160 miles from the sea. From the point of the reunion of its branches the range pursues its way northward into British America, the two ridges being again divided in Oregon and Washington Territory, the lesser retaining its own name, and the Sierra Nevada being styled the Cascade Range. The summits of the Sierra Nevada are generally above the line of perpetual snow, while the Coast Range has an average height of from 2000 to 3000 feet. Several of its peaks, however, rise to more than double that altitude. Mount Ripley is 7500 feet, and Mount St. John 8000 feet high. Mount Linn is still higher, but its exact altitude has not yet been ascertained. Mount Shasta, at the point of the union of the two ranges in Northern California, is 14,440 feet high. 60 TIlE UNITED STATES. P()OCKY MOUNTAINS. "Between the highest ridge of the Rocky Mountains on the east, and the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range on the west, is a vast region of table land, which in its widest part extends through fourteen degrees of longitude; that is about 700 miles from east to west. Humboldt, in his'Aspects of Nature,' observes that the Rocky Mountains, between 37~ and 43~, present lofty plains of an extent hardly met with in any other part of the globe; having a breadth from east to west twice as great as the plateaus of Mexico. In the western part of the great central plateaus above described, lies the Great Basin, otherwise called Fremont's Basin, from its having been first explored by Colonel Fremont. It is situated between the Sierra Nevada and Wahsatch Mountains, and is bounded on every side with high hills or mountains. It is about 500 miles in extent, from east to west, and 350 from north to south. It is known to contain a number of lakes and rivers, none of whose waters ever reach the ocean, being probably taken up by evaporation, or lost in the sand of the more arid districts. As far as known, the lakes of this basin are salt, except Utah Lake. The largest of these, the Great Salt Lake, is filled with a saturated solution of common salt; it has an elevation of 4200 feet above the sea." * * Lippincott's Gazetteer. 61 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Owing to the broad base and gentle rise of the Rocky Mountain Range, it is crossed with comparatively little difficulty. Its passes are among the finest on the globe, and will vie in grandeur of scenery with any of those of the ol( world. WVe have already spoken of the rivers which rise upon the slopes of this great range, and shall pass thenm by for the present, to return to them again in other portions of this work. SOIL. The soil of the United States "presents almost every variety, from the dry sterile plains in the region of the Great Salt Lake, to the rich alluviums of the Mississippi Valley. It can most conveniently be described by following the seven great divisions indicated by the river system of the country, viz., the St. Lawrence basin, the Atlantic slope, the Mississippi Valley, the Texas slope, the Pacific slope, the inland basin of Utah, sometimes called the Great or Fremont Basin, and the basin of the Red River of the north. 1. The St. Lawrence basin embraces parts of Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, and all of Michigan; it is an elevated and fertile plain, generally well wooded. 2. The Atlantic slope includes all New England except a part of Vermont; all of New Jersey, Delaware, the District of Columbia, South Carolina, and Florida; and portions of New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Northl Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi. It may be subdivided into two regions, a N. E. section and a S. W. section, separated by the Hudson River. The former is hilly, and generally better adapted to grazing than tillage, though some parts of it are naturally fertile, and a large proportion is carefully cultivated. The S. W. section may be again divided into a coast belt from 30 to 150 miles in width, running from Long Island Sound to the mouth of the Mississippi, and including the whole peninsula of Florida; and an inland slope from the mountains towards this coast belt. The former, as far south as the Roanoke River, is sandy and not naturally fertile, though capable of being made highly productive; from the Roanoke to the Mississippi it is generally swampy, with sandy tracts here and there, and a considerable portion of rich alluvial soil. The inland slope is one of the finest districts in the United States, the soil consisting for the most part of alluvium from the mountains and the decomposed primitive rocks which underlie the surface. 3. The Mississippi Valley occupies more than two-fifths of the area of the 62 - V- \-\; H'lii - 4 Hi L ~/i ii \ \ )'I *; <1/ \ ' ~~~~~~~; iffi< I I I i I I I I j t THE UNITED STATES. Republic, and extends from the Alleghany to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Gulf of Mexico to British North America, thus including parts of New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, and all of Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Nebraska, and Kansas, and the Territories north of Nebraska and east of the mountains. It is for the most part a prairie country, of fertility unsurpassed by any region on the globe, except perhaps the Valley of the Amazon. The ground in many places is covered with mould to the depth of several feet, in some instances to the depth of 25 feet. The northwest part of the valley, however, offers a strong contrast to the remainder. There is a desert plateau 200 to 400 miles wide, lying at the base of the Rocky Mountains, at an elevation 2000 to 5000 feet above the sea, part of it incapable of cultivation on account of the deficiency of rain and lack of means of irrigation, and part naturally sterile. 4. The Texas slope includes the southwestern country of the Mississippi Valley, drained by rivers which flow into the Gulf of Mexico, and embracing nearly all of Texas, and portions of Louisiana and New Mexico. It may be divided into three regions: a coast belt from 30 to 60 miles wide, low, level, and very fertile, especially in the river bottoms; a rich, rolling prairie, extending from the coast belt about 150 or 200 miles inland, and admirably suited for grazing; and a lofty table-land in the northwest, utterly destitute of trees, scantily supplied with grass, and during a part of the year parched w ith complete drought. Almost the only arable land in this section is found in the valleys of the Rio Grande and a few other streams. 5. The Pacific slope, embracing the greater part of California, Oregon, and WAVashlington Territory, and parts of New Mexico and Utah,* is generally sterile. That part, however, between the Coast Range and the ocean, and the valleys between the Coast Range, and the Cascade Range and Sierra Nevada, are very fertile, and the same may be said of a few valleys and slopes among the Wabhsatch and Rocky Mountains, though these are better adapted to pasturage than to anything else. 6. The great inland basin of Utah, which includes besides Utah parts of New Mexico, California, Oregon, and Washington, is probably the most desolate portion of the United States. It abounds * To this add a part of Colorado, and all of Nevada and Idaho, formerly included in Oregon, and in Utah and Washington Territories. 63 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in salt lakes, and there are only a few valleys where the soil acquires by irrigation enough fertility to afford a support for man. 7. That portion of the basin of the Red River of the north which belongs to the United States is confined to the small tract in the northern part of Dacotah and Minnesota; it contains some very productive lands, especially in the river bottoms." * CLIMATE. The climate of the United States is varied. It could not possibly be uniform in a country presenting such a wide diversity of physical features in its various parts. In Florida, the thermometer does not vary over twelve degrees during the year, but in the remainder of the country the climate is exceedingly variable, and the changes are sudden and severe, often ranging over thirty degrees in the course of a few hours. Alternations from rain to drought are also as common and severe as those from heat to cold and from cold to heat. The summers are always hot. The thermometer frequently ranges as high as 110~ F. In the North, however, the hot weather does not continue in full vigor for more than a few days at a time, and in the South, the heat is seldom so extreme, though it continues for a longer time. California has a climate as mild as that of Italy, but the North-Eastern States are swept by the chill winds from the Atlantic and the ice fields of British America. The great lakes mitigate to a considerable extent the temperature of the country around them. A similar effect is produced upon the temperature of their surrounding regions by the elevated plains of New MAexico, Utah, and Oregon. The following table shows the average temperature of each of the seasons of the year oni the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and in the interior: PLACE OF OBSERVATION. Latitude. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter. Year. Fortress Monroe (near Norfolit, Va.).................. 37~ 56.87~ 76-57~ 61-68~ 40.45~ 58.890 Fort Columbus (New York Harbor)................... 40~ 42' 48-74~ 72-10~ 54-55~ 31-38~ 51-69~ Fort Sullivan (Eastport, Maine)........................ 44~ ]5' 40-15~ 60.50~ 47.52~ 23'90~ 43.02~ St. Louis, Missouri........................................... 38~ 40' 54-15~ 76-19~ 55-44~ 32-27~ 54-51~ Chicago, Illinois............................................... 41~ 52' 44.90~ 67'33~ 48.85~ 25.90~ 4-6.750 F,,rt Ripley, Minnesota.................................... 46~ 19' 39-33~ 64-94~ 42-91~ 10-01~ 39-30~ Monterey, California......................................... 36 36' 5399'~ 58-64~ 57.29~ 51-22~ 55.29~ San Francisco, California................................... 37~ 48' 5441~ 57-33~ 56-83~ 50-86~ 54-88~ + Astoria, Oregon............................................ 46~ 11' 51-16~ 61-58~ 53.76~ 42'43~ 52-233 * Appleton's Cyclopaedia, vol. xv. p. 716. t Id. p. 717. 64 I THE UNITED STATES. Rain is abundant in nearly all parts of the Union, and is distributed over the country in a very nearly equal degree throughout the year. In the Atlantic States south of Washington City, the fall is less regular than in the States north of the Capital, but is more plentiful than in the latter, and occurs more frequently in summner than in winter. On the Pacific coast, the fall of rain is periodical, occurring chiefly in the winter and spring, and south of the fortieth parallel of North latitude, in the autumn also. Very little rain falls between the Cascade Range and the one-hundredth meridian of West longitude. When rain does visit this region, it comes in violent showers, which are especially severe in the mountains. The annual fall in the desert region through which the Colorado flows, is estimated at 3 inches; in the great plain south of the Columbia River, 10 inches; in the desert east of the Rocky Mountains, from 15 to 20 inches. Scarcely any of this falls in the summner.* Snow falls in the Northern States to a considerable depth. In the Lake Superior country, more or less snow falls every day during the winter, and remains on the ground until the spring. It is comparatively rare south of the James River, in Virginia, and does not remain on the ground very long. In the Gulf States, it is scarcely ever seen except in the extreme northern portion. The most dangerous local diseases, of the New England( and Middle States, are pulmonary complaints; of the Southern States, bilious fevers, and yellow fever along the Gulf coast; of the Western States, intermittent and bilious fevers, and dysentery. The "fever and ague" prevails chiefly in new regions, and disappears as they become thickly settled. The following table, taken firom the eighth census of the United States, will show the ratio of mortality in each State, for the year ending June 1st, 1860: * Appleton's Cyclopmdia. 65 5 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. STATES AND TERRITORIES. Population to one death. 74 48 101 74 89 78 81 87 87 92 73 69 57 81 92 57 100 153 64 66 72 88 82 84 93 218 95 69 71 72 63 92 70 107 ......... ......... 75 ......... 71 106 228 58 79 A l ebaria................................................................................. Arkanisas................................................................................ California................................................................................ Connecticut............................................................................ Delaware................................................................................ Florida.................................................................................... Georgia.................................................................................. elliltHis.................................................................................... Indeiana................................................................................... Iowa...................................................................................... Kansas.................................................................................... Kentu cky................................................................................ IOeuisiana................................................................................. laine.................................................................................... Rh ary slandl................................................................................ Nltssacl nsetts.......................................................................... Michigan.............................................................................. Ninnesota.............................................................................. Tlississilpi.............................................................................. lissouli.................................................................................. New Hamipshire...................................................................... New Jersey............................................................................. New York.............................................................................. No rth Carolina........................................................................ OhIio...................................................................................... Oregon.................................................................................... Pennsylvania.......................................................................... Rhode Isla od.......................................................................... South Carolina........................................................................ Tennessee................................................................................ Texas..................................................................................... V,hermont................................................................................. V irgin ia................................................................................. Wisconsin.;............................................................................. Colorado............................................................................ Dactah............................................................................. Nebraska........................................................................... Nevada............................................................................ New Mexico...................................................................... Utah................................................................................ W\ashington....................................................................... District of Co lumbia.......................................................... Deaths. P'er ceat. 1-34 2-06 0'99 1-35 1-13 1-28 1'23 1-14 1'15 1-09 1'37 1-45 1-76 1-23 1-09 1.76 1.00 0.65 1-57 1-52 1-39 1-14 1.22 1-19 1'07 0-46 1'06 1-44 1-41 1-39 1-58 1-08 1-43 0'93 ......... 1-34 1-42 0'94 0'44 1-72 1-27 Total, United States................................392,821 79 1q27 From this table, it will be seen that Washington Territory is the first in point of healthfulness, Oregon second, Minnesota third, WVis consin fourth, Utah fifth, California sixth, Massachusetts twenty-ninth, and Arkansas thirtieth. MINERAL WEALTH. The mineral productions of the United States are varied and ex tensive. Coal exists in all the States except Maine; Vermont, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Delaware, South Carolina, Mississippi, and Wisconsin. Three distinct qualities are found-anthracite, bitumi nous and semi-bituminous. In 1860, the production amounted to Of anthracite............ 9,398,332 tons. Of bituminous..............................5,775,077 " Total...........15,173,409 " There are valuable and extensive beds of marl in Maine, New Jer sey, Maryland, Virginia, and several other States. Salt springs, some 66 12,759 8,885 3,704 6,138 1,246 1,764 12,816 19,299 15,325 7,259 1,443 16,460 12,234 7,614 7,370 21,303 7,390 1,108 12,213 17,652 4,469 7,525 46,881 11,602 24,724 237 30,214 2,479 9,745 15,163 9,377 3,355 22,472 7,141 ....... i 381 374 50 1,285 392,821 Total, United States................................................ THE UNITED STATES. of them of very great strength and value, are found in New York, Michigan, Virginia, Kentucky, and Arkansas. Nitrates of soda and potassa are found in the caves of Virginia, Kentucky, and Arkansas, while the plains of the great American desert and the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains furnish considerable quantities of nitrate and carbonate of soda. Gypsum, or sulphate of lime, is found in Maine, Maryland, and Texas, and in portions of New Mexico and Arizona. Marble, of every variety required for building, exists in nearly all the States. In those bordering on the Mississippi, a fine, compact car bonate of lime supplies its place. Iron exists in every State and Ter ritory, and in every form known, from the bog ore, which contains about 20 per cent. of iron, to the pure metal. In the year 1860, the total product of iron ore taken from the mines was estimated at 2,514,282 tons. Of this amount, Pennsylvania produced 1,706,476 tons. There are small quantities of lead in a large number of the States; but Missouri, Arkansas, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois, alone, contain the great lead deposits of the country. An incomplete return for 1860, places the value of the lead production of the Union at $977,281. The great copper region of the Union lies along the shores of Lake Superior, but the metal has been found in considerable quantities in Connecticut, New Jersey, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee. The ore found in the Lake Superior region, yields from 71 to 90 per cent. of pure copper. The total product for 1860 was 14,432 tons, valued at $3,316,516. Zinc is found in Pennsylvania and New Jersey-the yield in the former State, in 1860, being 11,800 tons, valued at $72,600. Tin is found in Maine, to some extent, and also in California. Silver is found in connection with almost all the deposits of lead and copper; and in Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico, extensive veins of a fine quality exist. These are being well worked, but at present there is no accurate return of the total products of the mines. Silver also exists in California, North Carolina anLi Colorado. Small quantities of gold exist in Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Alabama, and Tennessee. The gold veins are more imlportant in Virginia and Georgia, which formerly furnished the greater part of the gold found in the United States. The mines of the Atlantic States, however, are comparatively neglected at present for those of the Pacific States. Immense deposits of gold exist in California, Oregon, Washington, LNevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Dacotah. Platinum and mercury are also found in California-tlhe former in small quantities, but the yield of the latter is so great as to 67 TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. almost supply the demland for it for mining purposes. Osmlium and irid(ium have been discovered in Oregon. They are used ill manufceturinc, gold pens. Cobalt is found in North Carolina and Missouri. Pennsylvania, in 1860, yielded 2348 tons of nickel. Chromiiumn exists in Vermlont, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvaniai, and MAaryla(nd; and Vermont, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and South Carolna suppilly considerable quantities of manganese. 'PPRODUCTS OF THE SOIL. The native vegetation of the United States is too vast and varied to admit of a description here. AVe can only say that it covers a widle range of plants and trees, fromn the giant trees of California to the tiniest flower that bloom,s on the hill side. Nearly all the princi)al productions of the fi'igii, temperate and torrid zones are found within the limits of the Republic. INonie of thle great staples of food are natives of the country, but have been brought from other lands. It must be admitted, however, that they have been greatly benefited by the change, and many of them are produced here in finer qualities than in their old homes. Cucumbers, melons, squashes, and all the edible eictcrbitctece are importations. So are the most of the fruits, especially the apple, )ear, plum, quince, and apricot. The edible berries, such as the strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, whlortlebherry, bilberry, cloudberwr, etc., are natives of the soil. Cotton, flax, and hlemp are naturalized plants. ANIMALS. The zoology of the United States includes all the animals found on the North American Continent. Of bats, there are three genera and eleven species. The largest of the Sarcop1)cl(f or C(rntivora, is the cougar or catamount, whichl ranks next to the lion and IB'engal tiger in ferocity and strength. This animal is sometimes called the American panther, an erroneous appellation, as the panther is not a native of this country. The wild cat or bay lynx, and the Canadian lynx are found. The entire monkey tribe is lacking. There are seven species of the fox-the common red, the cross fox, the black or silver, the prairie, swift, gray, and short-tailed fox. The wolves are divided into two distinct species, the gray wolf of the woods, (divided into the reddish, black, and giant wolf,) a cowardly animal, andl the ferocious prairie wolf, which resembles the jacklal of the East. The 68 THE UNITED STATES. I)iitigrada consist of the pine marten or American sable, the American fisher, the American ermine, the weasel, and two species of mink. The black, and the grisly bear, the badger, wolverene, skunk, and raccoon are found in various parts of the country. Several varieties of the seal family exist. The deer, the antelope, the Rocky Moantain or big horn sheep, also abound. The bison, which is usually but incorrectly called the buffalo, is found in the far West. Nearly all the birds, fish, reptiles, and insects of America are found in the various parts of the Union. "The domestic animals of the United States have been, with one or two exceptions, introduced fromn Europe. The horse, though not native to this continent, became wild at an early period, and now roams in large herds ill the plains of Texas, but is domesticated without great difficulty. There have been at different times stocks introduced from England, France, Spain, and some from Morocco and Arabia; much attention has been paid to the breeding of these animhals, and some of them have not lb)een surpassed in speed or other good points. The asses are mainly from Spain and Malta; the cattle from Great Britain; the goats from the south of Europe, though some efforts have been made to introduce Asiatic species; and the sheep from the Southdown, Saxon, and Spanish Merino breeds. The swine are of various stocks; one breed, common in Central and Western Virginiia and other mountainous districts, is tall, long, and gaunt, and of ferocious nature and uncertain origin; but the most common breeds are the Berkshire (English) and Chinese, and crosses upon these. Our domestic dogs and cats are, with few exceptions, of European origin. The brown or Norway rat was an importation from the country whose name it bears, but has now been nearly destroyed by a more powerful and ferocious black rat, said to be from the south of Europe. Efforts have been made, but with no very satisfactory result, to introduce the llama of South America into our mountainous districts. The attempt to aceclimate the Bactrian camnel in Texas and California, gives promise of greater success." * CHARACTERISTICS OF POPULATION. The people of the United States consist of representatives of every nation in Europe, and of many in Asia and Africa. For a long time after the Revolution tlhe characteristics impressed upon certain parts * Appleton's Cyclopedia, vol. xv. p. 726. 69 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of the country by the original settlers remained in their full force with their descendants, but at present the rush of emigration has been so great from all parts of Europe, that these have been either very much weakened or entirely destroyed. The New England States were originally settled by the Puritans, and to the present day still retain many of the strongest of the peculiarities of their forefathers. The gradual but steady increase of their Irish population is working great changes, however, in these States. The city of Boston is being especially affected in this manner. 1New York was settled by emigrants from Holland, and though the eastern portion of the State has scarcely any traces of its origin left, the interior possesses still many communities, which not only retain very many of the customs and characteristics of the old settlers, but in which, until a very recent period, the Dutch language was spoken to a considerable extent by those born on the soil. Maryland was settled by Catholics, who have not yet lost their controlling influence in the State. Delaware and New Jersey were settled by the Swedes. Pennsylvania was colonized by English Quakers, who were followed by many German families. The descendants of these classes still control the State-the Quakers, as of old, living in the eastern, and the Germans in the southwestern, western, and central portions. Virginia was settled by the English, who were followed by many French Huguenots and Germans. These settled in three distinct parts of the State-the first settlers along the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, the French along the Upper James, above the falls, and the Germans in the rich valley of the Shenandoah. These distinctions were strongly preserved as late as the period of the rebellion. North Carolina was settled by non-conformists from Virginia. South Carolina, by English Churchmen and French Huguenots, who had not lost the control of the State at the time of the rebellion. Georgia by English prisoners for debt, followed by other classes from the mother country. Louisiana was settled by the French, and was inhabited chiefly by them when purchased fromnt the French crown. Texas and California were originally Spanish, and, to a great extent, are still so. The latter State has a strong Chinese element in it. Florida was originally Spanish, and still retains its original characteristics along the Gulf Coast. The other States and the Territories were settled by adventurers from the older portions of the country, and by emigrants from Europe, who still continue to flock to our shores in great numbers. The following tables will show the number 70 THE UNITED STATES. of arrivals of emigrants in this country for a period of fifty-one years, or from January 1st, 1820, to September 30th, 1870, their national ities and destinations: Wholly or mainly of Slavic Races. Russia........................... 2,930 Poland........................... 3.955 Hungary....................... 488 Total Slavic............... 7,373 Wholly or mainly of English Speech. England........................ 501,316 Ireland........................ 1,406,030 Scotlan d........................ 82,403 Wales.................................... 12,213 Other Great Britain.........1,824,078 British Anmeriica............. 271,185 Anistralia....................... 246 Azores.......................... 6,636 Be,rmudas..................... 61 St. Ilelena..................... 33 Cape of Good Ihope................ 88 New Zealand.................2 17 Sandwich Islands............ 35 Malta........................... 127 Jamaica......................... 85 Total English speech...4,104,553 Wholly or mainly 2rench, Spanish Portuguese and Italian. Fran ce.......................... 245,147 Spaill........................... 23,096 Portugal................................. 4,416 Italy............................. 23,387 Sardinia........................ 2,103 Mexico........................ 20,039 Central America................... 1,067 Guiana......................... 53 Venezuela..................... 40 Peru............................. 36 Chili............................. 28 Brazil........................... 45 Buenos Ayres.............6.... 7 Bolivia........................... 3 New Granada................. 2 Paraguay.................... I Other South America.-................. 7,407 Cuba............................. 3,960 Hayti........................... 81 Porto Rico..................... 50 Other West Indies......... 45,458 Cape de Verdes.............. 71 Madeira....................... 313 Canaries........................ 290 Wholly or mainly of African.a-2 tions, with Turkey and Greece. Liberia.......................... 64 Egypt........................... 20 Abyssinia....................... 5 Africa (general).............. 471 Barbary States............... 11 Turkey......................... 299 Greece........................... 195 Total, Africa, etc........... 1,065 Fronm countries not speci fied............................ 205,807 Aggregate since 1820...... 7,448,925 Wholly or mainly of Germanic and Scandinavian Speech. Germany........................ 2,250,822 Prussia.......................... 100,983 Austria.......................... 7,904 Sweden and Norway...... 151,104 Denmark....................... 23,221 Ilolland......................... 30,905 Belgium........................ 16,850 Switzerland................... 61,269 Iceland......................... 11 Total Germanic........... 2,643,069 NUMBER OF EMIGRANTS IN EACH YEAR. 8,385 1833............... 58,640 1846............... 154,416 1859................ 121,282 9,130 1834.............. 65,365 1847............... 234,968 1860................ 153,640 6,911 1835.............. 45,374 1848............... 226 527 1861................ 91,920 6,354 1836............... 76,242 1849............... 297,041 1862................ 91,987 7,912 1837.............., 7 9,340 1850............... 369,963 1863................ 176,28 10,199 1838...........1 38, 914 1851.......... 379 466 1864.......... 193,418 10,837 1839............... 68,072 1852............... 371,603 1865................ 248,120 18,875 1840............... 84,006 1853............... 368,645 1868................ 318,554 27,382 1841............... 80,289 1854............... 427,833 1867................ 298,358 22,520 1842............... 104,565 1855............... 200,877 1868................ 297,215 23,322 1843............... 52,49.. 6 1856........... 200,436 1869............ 3,287 22,633 1844............... 78,615 1857............... 251,306 1870 (9 inos.).... 285,429 60,482 1845.............. 114,371 1858.............. 123,12648 Total............ 7,448,925 AV O WED DESTINA TION OF EMIGRANTS LANVDED A T CASTLE GARDEN, FROM A UGUST 1, 1855, TO JA.NUARY 1, 1870, BEING 2,340,928 PASSENGERS. New York and undecided.. 972,267 Colorado........................ New Mexico................... Idaho........................... Dacotah........................ Montana........................ Utah............................. Wyoming....................... Total Pacific States...... Ohio.............................. 120,428 Michigan...................... 52,205 Indiana........................ 29,576 Illinois......................... 213,315 Wisconsin..................... 121,660 Minnesota..................... 29,360 Iowa......................... 44,286 Missonri........................ 44,309 Kansas.......................... 5,052 Nebraska..................... 4,198 Total Northwest. States. 664,389 Bistern States. Maine........................... 4,013 New Hamiipshire............. 2,859 Vermont........................ 4.405 Massachusetts...................... 111,129 Rhode Island................. 21, 430 Connecticuit................... 39,169 Total Eastern States.... 183,005 Virginia......................... 8,235 West Virgini................... 172 North Carolina............... 784 South Carolina............... ],854 Georgia......................... 1,623 Florida........................... 1 99 Al abama........................ 577 T Total Southeast. States. 13,444 Nevada........................ 80 California...................... 22,823 Oregon.......................... 189 Washington Territory..... 6 I I 7i Miqulon....................... 3 Coi-sic........................... 11 Sicily............................. 67,5 Total French, etc.......... 377,889 Wholly or mainly ofasiatic Races. Cbii,,,t........................... 108,610 Japan........................... 215 India............................ 178 Arabia........................... 33 Syria............................. 4 Persia............................ 14 Asia (general)................ 24 East India Islands.......... 119 Society............... 7 Pacific Islaid,;................ 5 Total Asiatic............... 109,169 1820................ 1821................ 1822................ 1823................ is24................ 1825................ i 826................ 1827................ 1828................ 1829................ 1830................ 1831................ 1832............... 170 50 32 49 33 23,735 5 47,172 Northwestern States. Sotitheastern States. Central States. New Jersey.................... 63,109 P,nnsylvai,ia................. 224,880 M,,ryland....................... 18,033 Delaware...................... 2,011 District of Coliimbia....... 9,129 Total Central States...- 317,162 -Pacif,c States and Territories. THE GREAT REPUBLIC. AVOWED DESTINATION OF EMIG Southwestern States. Other Places. Missouri........................ 44,309 Canada,,... Keutucky................. 11,657 New Brunswick........... Tennessee...................4.1. New oinion............... Arkansas....................... 30B 1t{)Q#CI fir,-) ~Soulth Americ:~.............. Mississippi Cub........................ Mississippi... 6 Cuba............................6. Louisiana...... ei................. exico.......................... Texas........................... 1,522 Central America............... Total Southwest. States 66,917 ancouver's Islan d........ Total Southwest. States. 66,917 Vailcouver's Island.... Australia....................... 50,828 Bermuda...................... 1'028 Sandwich Islainds........... '816 Iaussi,,n Am,ierica.............. 55 British Columbia............ 349 Jpan............................ 210 Chi............................ 141 Uklakowi...................... 113 Total......................... 6 Previous to 1820, no exact account was kept of the arrivals of emigrants from foreign countries; but as near as can be ascertained, the number was as follows: From 1790 to 1800........... 50,000 " 1800 " 1810............ 70,000 " 1810 " 1820........... -. 114,000 Total.............. 234,000 This added to the number of emigrants since 1820, gives a total number of 7,682,925 emigrants since the formation of the Federal Government. During the present year, 1871, the number of arrivals will be unusually large, if the rate which has marked the first portion of it is continued throughout the year. AGRICULTURE. Agriculture is the principal interest of the United States, and is growing in importance every year. A brief glance at each of the great staples in detail will be interesting and useful. 71laize, or Intdian Corn. Mtaize is tlhe principal production of the United States, and is cultivated in every State and Territory of the Republic. It is best adap)ted to the soil and climate of the country, and furnishes the largest amount of nutritive food. It is generally a sure crop where it is properly cultivated. The metlhd of cultivation is substantially that of the Indians, from whom the white settlers learned it in 1608, in which year they first planted it in thle vicinity of Jamiestown. At present the yield varies fromn 20 to 135 bushels to the acre. In 1869, the total product of the country amounted to 874,120,005 bushels. The States which produced the greatest nurnm)er of bushels that year, stand as follows: Illinois, 121,500,000 bushels; Missouri, 80,500,000 bushels; Ohio, 68,250,000 bushels; Indiana, 73,500,000 bushels; IKentucky, 51,500,000 bushels; Tennessee, 47,500,000 bushels; and Iowa, 78,500,000 bushels. The 74'2 13 2 ] 4G6 1 6 22,035 76,572 THE UNITED STATES. product of the other States ranged firom 200,000 to 30,000,000 bushels. The first was the yield of Oregon, tile smallest of all. T'heat. This grain ranks next to Indian Corn in iml)ortance, and wvhen the climate and soil are adapted to its growth, is preferred by the Amierican farmer to all others. Considerable care is exercised in its culture, and the greatest ingenuity has been displayed in the effort to improve the mleans of cultivation, and with best results. The lwheat region of the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains, is situated between the 30th and 50th parallels of North latitude. On the Pacific coast, however, it extends several degrees farther north. As a general rule the wheat of America, especially that of the great wheat producing States of the Atlantic coast, is superior to any other in the world. At the London Exhibition, wheat from Genesee County, .New York, won the prize medal from the Royal Commissioners. The total yield of wheat for 1869 amounted to 264,146,900 bushels. The product of the principal wheat producing States was as follows: Illinois, 29,200,000 bushels; Wisconsin, 24,000,000 bushels; Iowa, 25,050,000 bushels; Indiana, 20,600,000 bushels; Ohio, 20,400,000 bushels; California, 21,000,000 bushels; and Pennsylvania, 16,500,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Florida, 1300 bushels. Rye is raised in all the States, but principally inll the Eastern and Middle States. Pennsylvania, New York, and ]New Jersey produce more than half the quantity raised in the whole country. There is a decided increase in the Western States, and in Maryland and Delaware. In the New England States it has decreased. The total product for 1869 was 22,227,000 bushels. Pennsylvania raised 6,250,000 bushels; New York, 4,748,000 bushels; New Jersey, 1,500,000 bushels; and Wisconsin, 1,150,000 bushels. Barley is grown in the Atlantic States, between the 30th and 50th degrees of North latitude, and on the Pacific coast, between the 20th and 62nd degrees of North latitude. The two-rowed barley is principally cultivated because of the fuluess of its grain, and its exemption from smut. It yields from 30 to 50 bushels to the acre, and will average about 50 pounds to the bushel.'Very little of it is exported, as nearly the whole crop is used at home for the manufacture of beer, ale, etc. The demand for it is increasing. The crop of 1869 amounted to 28,650,200 bushels, or more than five times the amount produced in 1850. The States yielded as follows: California, 12,285,000 bushels; New York, 4,600,000 bushels; Ohio, 2,600,000 bushels; and Wisconsin, 1,500,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of NiNorth Carolina, 3500 bushels. 73 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Buckwvheat is raised principally in the New Enlgland and Middle States. The average yield is from 30 to 45 bushels to the acre, though in some good soils it has yielded as much as 60 bushels. The crop of 1869 amounted to 17,255,500 bushels. Pennsylvania pro duced 6,500,000 bushels; New York, 5,590,000 bushels; and Ohio, 882,000 bushels. Oats. This grain constitutes one of the most important crops of the country, and flourishes in sections where the heat or cold is too great for wheat or rye. It is grown principally in the Northern, Middle, and Western States. The crop of 1869 amounted to 298, 284,000 bushels. New York produced 31,250,000 bushels; Penn sylvania, 48,000,000 bushels; Ohio, 27,000,000 bushels; Illinois, 35,726,000 bushels; Wisconsin, 22,500,000 bushels; and Iowa, 19, 000,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Florida, 23,000 bushels. Peas and Beans were largely cultivated by the Indians before the settlement of the country by the whites. At present they are grown as a field crop, principally in the Eastern, Middle, and Southern States. The yield averages from 25 to 40 bushels per acre, weighing about 64 pounds per bushel. The crop of 1869 amounted to 15,763,444 bushels. Mississippi produced 1,998,896 bushels; Georgia, 1,965,214 bushels; North Carolina, 1,932,204 bushels; South Carolina, 1,728,074 bushels; and New York, 1,909,339 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Rhode Island, 7698 bushels. Rice was first introduced into Virginia by Sir William Berkeley, in 1647; into the Carolinas in 1694; and into Louisiana in 1718. It is confined chiefly to a few of the extreme Southern States, where the climate is favorable to it, and the supply of water plentiful. The yield is usually from 20 to 60 bushels to the acre, weighing from 45 to 48 pounds to the bushel, when cleaned. The yield for 1860 was 187,140,173 pounds. South Carolina produced 119,100,528 pounds; Georgia, 52,507,652 pounds; Louisiana, 6,455,017 pounds; North Carolina, 7,593,976 pounds; Mississippi, 657,293 pounds; and Alabama, 499,559 pounds. It has been grown in Illinois, California, Missouri, Kentucky, New York, and Virginia, though of an inferior quality. Potatoes. The Irish or White Potato ranks next to wheat and corn in the industry of the Republic. The yield depends upon the soil and climate, and the manner of cultivation, and varies from 50 to 400 bushels, the average being less than 200 bushels to the acre. It 74 THE UNITED STATES. suffers frequently from the "rot." The crop of 1869 amounted to 133",886,000 bushels. New York produced 28,500,000 bushels; Pennsylvania, 15,400,000 bushels; Ohio, 9,600,000 bushels; and Maine and Illinois, 7,500,000 bushels each; Indiana, 4,750,000 bushels; Massachusetts, 4,300,000 bushels; Michigan, 7,500,000 bushels; New Hampshire, 4,500,000 bushels; New Jersey, 5,300,000 bushels; Vermont and Wisconsin, 4,800,000 bushels. Sweet Potatoes. The sweet potato is a native of the East Indies, and was introduced into the Colonies soon after the settlement of Virginia. It is now extensively cultivated in the Southern and Western States. The crop of 1860 amounted to 41,606,302 bushels. Georgia produced 6,508,541 bushels; North Carolina, 6,140,039 bushels; Alabama, 5,420,987 bushels; Mississippi, 4,348,491 bushels; and South Carolina, 4,115,698 bushels. Arkansas, Florida, Kentucky, Louisiana, New Jersey, Tennessee, Texas, and Virginia each produced over a million of bushels. Hay. The production of hay is confined principally to the Eastern, 5Middle, and Western States, comparatively little being raised in the Southern States. The product of 1869 amounted to 26,420,000 tons. New York produced 4,600,000 tons; Pennsylvania, 2,570,000 tons; Illinois, 2,800,000 tons; and Ohio, 2,000,000 tons. Ho])s. The hop crop for 1860 amounted to 11,010,012 pounds, and of this the State of New York produced 9,655,542 pounds, or more than five-sevenths of the entire amount produced in the United States. Tobacco is indigenous to Central America, and was cultivated in various parts of the Continent before the discovery by Europeans. Columbus, in 1492, was offered a cigar by an Indian Chief on the Island of Cuba. In 1585, Sir Richard Greenville found it and saw it smoked in Virginia; and in 1616, it was extensively cultivated by the Colonists in that province. It is cultivated to a greater or less extent in nearly all the States. The crop of 1860 amounted to 429,390,771 pounds. Virginia produced 123,967,757 pounds; Kentucky, 108,102,433 pounds; Tennessee, 38,931,277 pounds; Maryland, 38,410,965 pounds; North Carolina, 32,853,250 pounds; Ohio, 25,528,972 pounds; Missouri, 25,086,196 pounds; and Connecticut, Illinois, Indiana, Massachusetts, Newv York, and Pennsylvania each produced more than 3,000,000 pounds. The rebellion almost destroyed the cultivation of tobacco in the Southern States, and it has not yet been fully resumed. 75 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. A WESTERN HIOMESTEAD. Sugar and Jolasses. The sugar-cane is said to have been introduced into Florida, Louisiana, and Texas at the period of their first settlement by the French and Spaniards. It does not thrive beyond the 33d degree of North latitude, or the 35th of South latitude. A very small quantity (283 hhds. in 1860) was raised in the warmest section of Wisconsin. The crop of 1860 amounted to 302,205 hogsheads of one thousand pounds each, of which Louisiana produced 297,816 hhds. In the same year the amount of cane molasses manufactured was 16,337,080 gallons. Louisiana produced 15,535,157 gallons. About the year 1858, a hardier species called the Sorghum, or Chinese sugar-cane, adapted to the climate of nearly all the States, was introduced. It has since been extensively cultivated, and is used exclusively for the manufacture of molasses, as it will not produce sugar. In 1860, while it was yet new to our people, the yield of Sorghum molasses was 7,235,025 gallons. Iowa produced 1,993,474 gallons. In the same year, 38,863,884 pounds of maple sugar were produced in the United States, and 1,944,594 gallons of maple molasses. Of maple sugars New York produced 10,816,458 pounds; Vermont, 76 THE UNiNITED STATES. 9,819,939 pounds; Ohio, 3,323,942 pounds; and Indiana, Massachusetts, Michigan, Missouri, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin, each over a million. Of maple molasses, Ohio produced 392,932 gallons; Michigan, 384,521 gallons; and Indiana, 203,028 gallons. Butter card Cheese. The total product of butter for 1869 was 470,536,468 pounds. Of this amnount, New York produced( 103,097,280 pounds; Pennsylvania, 58,653,511 pound(s; Ohio, 48,543,162 pounds; Illinois, 28,052,551 pounds; Indiana, 18,306,651 pounds; and Iowa, Kentucky, Maine, Michligan, Missouri, New Jersey, Tennessee, Vermnont, Virginia, and Wisconsin, each produced more than 11,000,000 pounds. The amount of cheese produced in the same year was 114,154,211 pounds. New York produced 48,548,289 pounds, and Ohio, 21,618,893 pounds. lTine. The culture of the vine has not yet attained the importance which the future holds out to it, and the returns of 1860 afford but an indifferent test of the wine producing capacity of the United States. The yield in 1860 was 1,860,008 gallons, a gain of 1,638,759 gallons over the vintage of 1850. Of this, the State of Ohio produced( 562,640 gallons; California, 494,516 gallons; Indiana, 88,275 gallons; New York, 61,404 gallons; North Carolina, 54,064 gallons; Illinois, 47,093 gallons; Connecticut, 46,783 gallons; and Virginia, 40,508 gallons. The vine is cultivated in nearly all the States, but the great grape regions of the country are the Lower Ohio Valley, and the Valleys of the Pacific coast. Cotton. At the outbreak of the Rebellion, American Cotton controlled the markets of the world, as regards both the quantity and the quality furnished; but the nar, by stopping the production of cotton, l)v disorganizing the system of labor, and by injuring the plantations in various ways, struck a blow at this branch of our industry, which will damage it for many years to come. Cotton is grown principally in the extreme Southern States. In Virginia and North Carolina it is becoming less important every year. The yield for 1860 amounted to 5,198,077 bales, of 400 pounds each. This amount was distributed as follows: Bales. Mississippi......................... 1,195,699 Alabama,...................................... 997,978 Louisiana,.......................... 722,218 Georgia....................................... 701,840 Texas....................................... 405,100 Arkansas...................................... 367,485 77 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bales. 353,413 227,450 145,514 63,322 12,727 4,092 1,133 100 6 5,198,077 S.........~.. *.......... o..........1 South Carolina,. Tennessee,... North Carolina,. Florida,.... Virginia,... Kentucky,... New Mexico,.. Missouri,... Illinois,.... ............ etu. **...**........4 Xew Mexico.........**.......1 *..........* Total,............... The yield for the year ending September 1st, 1870, was 3,154,946 bales, including 90,000 bales manufactured in the South, and not counted in the following statement of the production of each State. Bales. 1,142,097 306,061 22,874 488,204 246,284 246,500 59,612 202,898 350,416 L a......... Louisiana,.... Alabama,..... Florida,...... Georgia,...... Texas,...... South Carolina,.. North Carolina... Virginlia,.... Tennessee, Arkansas, !........ i.........02,898 IVool is grown in all the States to a greater or less extent. The yield for 1860 was 60,511,343 pounds, of which Ohio produced 10,648,161 lpounds; New York, 9,454,473 pounds; Michigan and Pennsylvania, each over 4,000,000 pounds; California, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Missouri, Vermont, and Virginia, each over 2,000,000 pounds; and Maine, New Hampshire, Tennessee, Texas, and Wisconsin, each over 1,000,000 pounds. Flax and IHemp. Flax is a native of Great Britain, and hemp of India. The second was formerly cultivated in this country to a greater extent than at present, having been to some degree superseded by the Southern cotton. In 1860 the yield of flax was 3,783,079 poundsnot quite half the amount grown in 1850. New York produced the largest amount, 1,514,476 pounds. In the same year 611,927 bushels of flax-seed were produced, of which Ohio grew 250,768 bushels. Of hemnp, 104,590 tons were grown in 1860. Kentucky produced 39,414 tons; New York, 35,821 tons; and Missouri 19,268 tons. Silk. Silk is said to be a native of Asia. Its production was introduced into the colony of Virginia in 1622, into Louisiana in 1718, into Georgia in 1732, and into Connecticut in 1760. The total 78 ..... THE UNITED STATES. product of silk cocoons in 1860, was 6562 pounds, or 4281 pounds less than the yield of 1850. Ohio produced 2166 pounds, and Michigan 1043 pounds. Orchard Products. The value of the orchard crop of 1860 amounted to $19,759,361. It was distributed amongst the leading States as follows: New York, $3,726,380; Ohio, $1,858,673; Pennsylvania, $1,479,938; Indiana, $1,212,142; Illinois, $1,145,936. J3farket Garden Productions. These, in 1860, amounted to $15,541,027, distributed among the principal States as follows: New York, $3,381,596; New Jersey, $1,542,155; Pennsylvania, $1,384,970; Massachusetts, $1,397,623; California, $1,074,143. Clover and Grass Seed. The yield of clover seed for 1860 was 929,010 bushels, or double the crop of 1850. Pennsylvania produced 274,363 bushels; Ohio, 216,545 bushels; and New York, 106,933 bushels. The yield of grass-seed for the same year was 900,386 bushels, of which Illinois produced 202,809 bushels; and Missouri, 85,410 bushels. Beeswax and Honey. In 1860, 1,357,864 pounds of beeswax were produced in the United States. Ohio produced 170,495 pounds; and Alabama 153,018 pounds. In the same year, 25,028,991 pounds of honey were produced. New York yielded 2,369,751 pounds; North Carolina 2,055,969 pounds; and Alabama, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee and Virginia, each over 1,000,000 pounds. VTalue of tome-JIade Manufactures. The total value of homemade manufactures in the United States, in 1860, amounted to $24,358,222. Tennessee produced $3,166,195 of this, and Kentucky, $2,095,578. The Value of Slaughtered Animals, in 1860, was $212,871,653. New York returned $15,841,403 of this amount, and Illinois $15,159,343. Cash Talute of Farms. In 1860, the cash value of farming lands in the United States amounted to $6,650,872,507. Of this amount, New York possessed $803,343,593; and Ohio $666,564,171. In the same year the farming implements and machinery in the Union were valued at $247,027,496. Those of New York were valued at $29,166,565, and those of Pennsylvania at $22,442, 842. 79 THE GREAT REPUBLIC. i[AN UFACTURES. The three great staple manufactures of the United States are cottons, woollens, and iron. These are manufactured in twenty-five of the States, but principally in MIassachusetts, New Hampshire, RPhode Island, Pennsylvania, Connecticut and New York. The cotton manufactures of the United States rank next to those of Great Britain. The woollen manufactures are of a more recent date than either of the others, but are growing in importance. In 1860; there were 140,433 establishments in the Union engage(d ill manufactures, mining and the mechanic arts. The capital invested in them amounted to $1,009,855,715. They consumed $1,031,605,092 worth of raw material, and employed 1,311,246 hallnds, of which 1,040,349 were males, and 270,897 females. The annual cost of the labor employed by them was $378,878,966, and the annual value of their products amounted to $1,885,861,679. The cotton manufactures of the United States, in 1860, employed a capital of $99,551,465, in operating 915 establishmlnents. They consumed $55,994,735 worth of raw material. They paid annually $23,360,168 for labor, employed 118,920 hands, of whom 45,315 were males, and 75,605 females. They received annually for their products the sum of $115,237,926. The woollen manufactures in the same year employed a capital of $35,520,527, in operating 1909 establishments. They employed 48,900 hands, of whom 28,780 were males, and 20,120 were females. They consumed $40,461,300 worth of raw material; paid $10,937,877 for labor; and received $68,865,963 for their products. The iron manufactures, including pig, cast, and wrought iron, employed, in 1860, a capital of $74,579,667, and 68,108 hands. They consumed $50,218,648 worth of raw material in the manufacture of pig iron, castings, bar iron, forged iron, etc., and received for their products the sum of $96,450,744. The other more important manufactures amounted in value, during the year 1860, to the following sums: Leather.............. Sawed and Planed Lumber....... Flour............... Salt..................... iMalt Liquors............ Spirituous Liquors.......... 80 $ 63,091,651 93,651,000 220,952,000 2,265,000 17,976,000 23,535,000 THE UNITED STATES. In the year 1860, the product of fisheries was valued at $12,924,092. During the same year, 110 ships abd barks, 36 brigs, 372 schooners, 289 sloops and canal boats, and 26-4 steaners were built in the United States, making a total of 1071 vessels, with a total capacity of 212,892 tons. COMMERCE. From partial returns for the year ending June 30th, 1861, we find that the entrances and clearances at the ports of the United States were as follows: ENTRANCES. FOREIGN VESSELS. TOTAL. No. I Tons. No. Tons. 10,709 2,217,554 21,690 7,241,471 CLEARANCES. AMIERICAN VESSELS. No. Tons. No. Tons. 10,586 2,262,042 21,665 7,151,35.5 The total value of domestic products exported from the United States to foreign countries, in 1869, was $373,189,274. The value of foreign goods exported from the Uinited States to foreign countries, in 1860, was $26,933,022. The total value of imports from foreign countries in the same year was $362,166,254. Total Imports in 1869......... $463,461,427 Total Exports " "......... 394,'44,335 Excess of Imports over Exports.... $68,817,092 I-NTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. For many years after the States were well settled by the whites, the thorouTghfares were, as is the case in all sparsely populated countries, in such a wretched condition that they could scarcely be called roads at all. It was not until some years after the close of the war for independence that a proper degree of attention was paid to them. Then 6 81 A'-NIERICAN YESSELS. No. I Tons. 11,2,51 5,023,917 FOREIGN YESSELS. TOTAL. No. I Tons. ii,o-,9 4,889,313 i THE GREAT REPUBLIC. VIE-W ON IIUDSON I1t VER-SIIOLVING TIIE STEA3BllOAT, TELEGRIAPi, 2,ND PJAILROAD. it wans held to be thle duty of the General Government to provide the (great routes of travel leading to the remote parts of the country, while the States themselves ought to look after their local highways. The first great putblic work constructed in America was the turnpike from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, which was cornpleted near the close of the last century, and was for a long time the !reat higLhway across the AlleT,hliany iMountains. This was followed byr the National Road, from AWashlington city to St. Louis, constructed by the U. S. Engineer Corps, at the expense of the General Governm.ent, andcl by the road from Banigor to Ilamnilton, Maine, also built !)v the Government. The National Road(, one of the best of its kind in the world, was carried successfully over the mountains, across the Olhio, W4 AWheeliiig, and Cincinnati, and completed as far as the State of Illinois; but the rapid growth of railroads has rendered it so comparatively useless that it will hardly be completed to St. Louis. Several other fine roads were constructed by the General Government in v-arious parts of the cotLilntry. 82 THE UNITED STATES. At the same time that these turnpikes were engaging the attention of the country, the States were urgently entreated to inaugurate a systemn of canals, which should provide cheaper and more abundant transportation between the distant parts of the Union. Washington exerted his influence to secure the speedy completion of canals from the head of tide water on the James and Potomac Rivers, to the Ohio. He appreciated the great advantages which would have been derived fiom the prompt completion of these workls, and was eager to secure them for the St-ate of Virginia. His plans are remarkable for their wisdom and their deep insight into the future, and had they been carried out would, beyond all doubt, have made Norfolk, Virginia, the largest and most important city in America. Pennsylvania and Maryland also began at an early day to lay out extensive canal systems, but, thanks to +thle genius and energy of De Witt Clinton, the State of New York viwas the first to reach the West wvithl her Erie and Hudson Canal, and tllhus secured for her great metropolis the immense advantages whichl have never forsaken it. This canal was opened in 1824. In the West, Ohio and Indianiia were the first to construct such works. Si(nce 185)0, however, the railroads of the country have rendered the fuirther construction of canals unnecessary. In 1860 there were about 5000 miles of canal navigation in the United States. The last, in point of date of construction, but the first in importance, of the public works of the United States, were the railroads. The first railroad in this country was a mnere tramway, for the transportation of granite, from the quarries at Quincy to the Neponsett River, in Massachusetts, constructed in the year 1826. This was followed by the Mauch Chunk Railway, from the coal mines to the Lehigh River, in Pennsylvania, in 1827. These were mere local works, and of but little importance, except in so far as they helped to demonstrate to the public nmind the possibility and usefulness of such enterprises upon a larger scale. Charters for roads of more importance were now obtained iln Massalehtsetts, zNew York, iNvew Jersey, Pennsylvania, Marylan(l and South Carolina, whose examnple was rapidly followed by the other States. In 1828 work was begun on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and in 1829 onI the South Carolina Railroad-at present two of lle finest works in the country. It was not until about the year 1850, however, that our railroad system began to attain anylthing like its present importance. The following table will show the increase in this branch of our industry Mince 18:38: 81, ii THE GREAT REPUBILIC. Xuiilber of miles in 1838 " " " "~ 1842 ", "; "; " 1844 "."... " 1846 '.'.'i " 1848 " " " "18S50 "i "' " 185' '' " " 61854 " "'~ ~ 1856 "'- " " 1858 " ~ ";' "1860 ' ~' " " 1865 .......... *...... 1,843 2,167 4,863 4,285 6,491 8,827 12,841 19,195 23,724 27,158 31,185 35,935 At present the number of miles in operation is about 40,000. riThere is a continuous railway connection from Bangor, Maine, to New Orleans, on the Gulf coast, and San Francisco on the Pacific coast. All the prominent cities and towns of the Union are connected by means of railways, and the most distant parts of the country are brought within a few days' travel of each other. The electromagnetic telegraph was invented by Professor Morse, about the year 1840, and in 1844 he erected between Washington and Baltimore, a distance of forty miles, the first line ever established in the United States or in the world. This line was extended northward, in 1845, through Philadelphia and New York, as far as Boston. The telegraph wires of the United States now form a network over the Republic, and would make a continuous line of more than 60,000 miles. This includes the overland line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, California, and Portland, Oregon. The American wires are also connected with those of Europe by means of the Atlantic cables, between New Foundland and Ireland, and France. It is proposed to construct another line from Portland, Oregon, along the west coast of North America to the northern part of Alaska, firom which a cable is to be laid, vicd Kamtchatka, to the mouth of the Anm]oor River, in Asia, to connect with a line through Asia to St. Petersburg, in Russia. EDUCATION. The first settlers of the States, with a wise foresight, were prompt to provide for the education of their descendants. Almnost their first act was to found a system of common schools, upon which the establishliiients of the present day are modelled. They also made provision for securing the means of instruction in the higher and nobler branches of learning. William and MIary College, in Virginia, Hiarvard Col ,S 4 THE UNITED STATES. lece, in MIassachutsetts, Yale College, in Connecticut, and Columblia College, in New York, (or King's College, as it was formerly called,) were founded within a very short period after the settlement of tile Colonies. "The general system of education in the United States may be arranged under three heads, as follows: 1. Elementary or Priniary Edlucation, taLug,ht in the public schools; 2. Academic or Secondary Edtucation, pursued in academies, high schools, private seminaries, etc.; and 3. Collegiate or Superior Education, acquired in such institutionis as embrace a course of study usually made the condition of granting the degree of Bachelor of Arts. In addition to the above, the Hon. Henry Barnard extends tile classification as follows: "4. Professional or Special Education. a. Thleolo,gy. b. Law. c. MAedicine. d. Engineering. e. Agricul ture. f. Mechanics. g. Commerce. h. Teaching. i. Fine Arts. j. Deaf-mutes. k. Blind. 1. Idiots. " 5. Supplemientary Education. a. Eveneing Schools. b. Lyceums. c. Courses of Lectures. d. Li braries of Circulation. e. Libraries of Reference. f. Adult Schools. ,. Mechanic Societies. " 6. Reformatory Schools. " 7. Orphan Houses. "S. Societies for the encouragement and advancement of science, the arts, and education. " The general system of public instruction in the United States originated with the pilgrim fathers of New England; where, as early as 1628, provision was made for the education of'every child' in the settlements. In 1637, a school was ordered to be provided for every neighborhood of 50 families, and another for a higher grade of instruction for every 100 families. A sumII sufficient to maintain these schools was annually raised by a town tax, voluntarily imposed, and each school district drew its proportion of the wholesum for its owni school or schools. Thus the property of the town was made liable for the education of the children. "The same system, with various modifications, has gradually extended itself to most of the States in the Union, and in part has been acted upon by the General Government. Chancellor Kent says:' It has been uniformly a part of the land system of the United States to provide for public schools. The Articles of Confederation, 1787, the Acts admitting into the Union, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana, Florida, Arkansas, etc., all provide for the appropriation of 85 THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. lands in each township for the use of public schools.' lands thus appropriated by the Federal Government, 1st, 18o4, is exhibited ill the subjoined table: States ad Te-rritories. Missouri.. Iowa... Wisconsin. California.. Minnesota. Oregon.... New Mexico. Utah... Florida. Hi lalbama. ississippli Louisiana Arkansas. Ohio MhAliclin. Indiana Illinois. 1,199,139 9005,144 958,648 6,719,324 5,089,224 12,140,907 7,493,120 6,GS1,707 48,909,535. " The table given on the following page shows the number of public schools, academies, and colleges, with their incomes and the number of pupils in attendance, and also the number of libraries and volumes, of the several States, as derived from the Census of 18860. " Mlaine has one pupil at school to every 3'2 of the whole population; being a greater proportion than in any other State or country. In the whole United States the proportion at school is 1 to 4.9, not including slaves, or 1 to 5'7, including slaves, either of which is greater than in any other country in the world except Denmark, where the proportion is 1 to 4'6. "A greatly increased interest in the subject of popular education has been manifested within the last few years; especially in the N-orthern and Western States. Public sentiment has demanded a higher standard of qualification in the teachers; and, as a consequence, normal schools, expressly designed for their instruction and training, have been established in several States; besides which, teachers meet regularly in convention, to interchange views upon she best methods of teaching; thus opening a larger field of comparison, and stimulating, thlroughi emulation to far greater efforts for improvement. These conventions, we believe, are now held in every free State in the Union, acnd in some States they assemble twice annually in each county; the sessions generally continuing a week. The classification of schools is also undergoing a thorough revision. Union schools, or what is termed the'graded system,' whichl comprises high, grammar, - Lip)iiicott's Gazetteer, l). 1994. 86 The ainoiiiit of up to JanuarvI St,t,,. Acres. Ac,,s. I I I OOS, 1)30 902, i 74 837,584 7S6,044 SS6,460 704,4SS 1,067,397 650,317 97S,7,55 Total. THIE UNITED STATES. .:.r~.....=.::~..:m ~:: P-.:....... C:::::::::::::::::::::::::::......... -. ..._ —,..... —-- ~.1..o... Q 3m -* F3 2 0 C ' O ti 0 Qt ' C < Li; ~~t~: t ---- - ----- i to C ~tO H C C. >1 1 ) - ~D 1- C: tDL~ ~ cC ~. C T0 C _ ce S O v IA