A BOOK OF VAGARIES. A BOOK OF VAGARIES; COMPRISING THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS AND OTHER WHIM[-WHAMS: BEING SELECTIONS FROM THE PAPERS OF A RETIRED COMMON-COUNCILMAN, EREWHILE KNOWN AS LAUNCELOT LANGSTAFF, AND, IN THE PUBLIC RECORDS, AS JAMES K. PAULDING. EDITED BY WILLIAM I. PAULDING. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER AND COMPANY. 1868. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by WILLIAM I. PAULDING, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. CAMBRIDGE: STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED BY JOHN WILSON AND SON. INTRODUCTION. THE title which I have given to this volume of the works of James K. Paulding was not devised for the sake of any bizarre effect it might be supposed to have, but because it seemed to me really to suggest the character of the contents. Even " The New Mirror for Travellers ", which occupies so much space in it, is rather a series of satirical observations varied with brief essays or stories than a connected work. Mr. Paulding, even when he started out with some special object in view, was apt to follow the lead of his fancy as it warmed, and to' set down just what popped into his head. If this rambling and discursive habit has its great disadvantages, it is not without a certain compensation, in the assurance which it gives to the reader that he is not entrapped into a piece of sentiment, or led up, like a partridge by cautiouslystrewed grains of buckwheat, into a hair-noose of a jest. Old birds of readers, familiar with the arts of writing men, will call to mind many a seed that they have seen dropped on the way, to be harvested by and by with as much certainty as a rye crop. Why, some men dibble'em in, like cabbageplants; and one knows that they will, in due time, weather and worms permitting, blow out into full head. A skittish man abhors these studied surprises. But he Viii INTRODUCTION. may plunge unsuspiciously into Mr. Paulding's fields and pastures. If a flower springs in his path, Nature put it there; and if he pricks his finger with a bramble while he stretches forth his hand to gather a blossom, a la bonne heure!, he must not complain, for, be sure, it will turn out a black-cap or a wild raspberry, and it was in the very constitution of things that they should be associated. It certainly is a charm, if it be not a merit, in Mr. Paulding's writings, that they are absolutely unvarnished. If an exquisite thought came from him, " totus, teres, atque rotundus", we may be assured that it had not been rolled about and polished assiduously, like a jeweller's work: - rather it was the natural gem of the mine. Indeed, as he prattles away in his careless fashion, we are sometimes reminded of the girl in the fairy-tale, who dropped pearls from her mouth in her ordinary talk. Above all, he was not of the men that say to themselves:Go to; now let us be funny, - and who fetch up their tears with a rotary pump, that one can hear creak as they work at it. No: his humor flitted about, like the bobolink athwart the breeze, now on this tack now on that as the fancy took him, but with no more calculation about its effect upon men than the bird makes when he gushes blithely into song; while there was an ever-living spring of sentiment within him, stealing away, for the most part, unseen, like the natural overflow amid the grass, and only once in a while gleaming in the sunlight, because it happened to cross the sunlight's path. The notion of attributing the papers to " a retired Commoncouncilman" was suggested by the title-page of " Chronicles of the City of Gotham": and, as it seemed to me not inappropriate, I have transferred the dedication of that volume to this. "The whim-whams and opinions of Launcelot Lang INTRODUCTION. ix staff, Esq., and others ", of the first series of " Salmagundi ", were reduced in the second to those of Launcelot Langstaff, Esq., alone. As we have in this volume more of the idiosyncrasies of that gentleman, I thought that his name might fairly appear upon the title-page. The engraving of Mr. Paulding in this volume is after a medallion executed by J. G. Chapman, about the year 1843. He was then sixty-five years of age; and his appearance did not materially change till within two or three years of his death, when he ceased to shave. Mr. Paulding had a detestation for watering-places, and a good deal of " The New Mirror for Travellers ", published in 1828., is devoted to gibes against Saratoga and Ballston. In "Letters from the South", he has a shy at such resorts. "In all the constituents of a fashionable watering-place, Berkeley maintains a most respectable rank, inasmuch as it affords as great a variety of character, as many gay equipages and gay people, and almost as great a lack of amusement, as Ballston or Long Branch." Again, in " A Sketch of Old England", referring to Barmouth in Wales, frequented for the purpose of bathing, he grimly says: -" The town is mean, incommodious, and difficult of access, presenting, on the whole, nearly all the inconveniences which form the principal attraction of watering-places." Any one in possession of a print of a street scene of about this period will be amused with Mr. Paulding's comments on the costume of the day, and especially on the head-gear of the ladies. In " The New-York Mirror " for January 15th, 1831., there is an engraving of The Battery, " done in a style that cannot fail, we think, of giving universal satisfaction." There are front, rear, and profile, views of bonnets in it, that are amazing. X INTRODUCTION. I set down here, as matter of antiquarian interest, what little I have been able to gather about the taverns and eatinghouses of New York and Albany, incidentally alluded to in the production. For this information, (and some other), I am under obligation to Mr. James H. Hackett and Mr. Gulian C. Verplanck. From the first-mentioned gentleman I have the following, in reference to matters on page 21:"The Bank Coffee House locality was South-East corner of Pine and William streets. It was kept by William Niblo, as I can remember distinctly, from 1816 to 1820; when I departed New York City, and went to and settled in Utica as a merchant. In 1825, when I had returned as such and resumed a residence in New York, (23 Broadway), and first became personally known to your late father, who was a neighbor, Niblo - tho' still keeping the Bank Coffee House —had been measurably surpassed in popularity, as a public caterer for nice palates, by one Sykes, (an Englishman and an adventurer), who had become more famous for his gastronomic preparations, and kept a public house, also in William street, —but, nearly opposite the front of the present Delmonico Building, corner of Beaver street. "Niblo soon thereafter partially withdrew from competition with Sykes, and, refitting some old family-mansion, not far from where is now the intersection of 61st street by the Third Avenue, and ornamenting its few surrounding acres, called the premises,' Kensington House'; and also got up and ran, at certain hours of summer days, between that and the Bank Coffee House,, an omnibus, -the first vehicle of the kind which had then been seen in New York. " Sykes eventually became a bankrupt, and was notorious for his profligacy, and for his large and many debts and defalcations; and, finally,'twas said of him, as of the poor old Frenchman in the tale of Monsieur Tonson, after having been so long teased by the wag, Tom King, -' Away he ran and ne'er was heard of more.'" The Turtle Club, mentioned on page 22, met at Hoboken, INTRODUCTION. Xi and included most of the wealthy gourmands of New York. It was more notorious for its high feeding than for its wit. I get, from Mr. Verplanck, the ensuing particulars in reference to two houses of entertainment specified on page 167. "Cruttenden's and Rockwell's, at Albany, are of an historical record and connected with the political history of the State. "Rockwell's was a large double house of yellow brick, built for the residence of some of the old dignitaries of Albany, but raised some stories and enlarged. It stood, and I think still stands, though converted into shops, &c., in Peail street, something North of State street, on the East side of the way. It was for years the winter resort of many of the chief men of the old Democratic party. There was always to be found the eloquent Peter R. Livingston, Walter Bowne, afterwards Mayor, long in the State Senate, and others of name. " Cruttenden's was of still more note, though not of so marked a political character. It is still standing, though destined to be soon removed, as it is on the ground ceded for the new capitol. It stands, originally one only, subsequently the two last houses on the N. corner facing the present park in front of the Capitol, being on the East side. It was long famous for its landlord and its guests. He was a man of infinite jest, and besides kept the best table in Albany or indeed in the country. The house was resorted to by Elisha Williams and all the great lawyers, Rudolph Bunner, and other men of pleasantry. It was the scene of sundry droll incidents which told on public opinion through the State." Mr. Verplanck remarks, further: —"A full note on these two houses, especially Cruttenden's, would be of much interest." This I regret that I am unable to furnish. A few foot-notes, included in brackets, have been added to this edition of The New Mirror for Travellers. The compositions which form the residue of the volume are, (with the exception of the last two), selected from a Xii INTRODUCTION. number of the same whimsical cast contributed by Mr. Paulding to The New-York Mirror during the years 1831 and 1832. They may be called representative papers; for he wrote a great variety of the sort, which he strewed about at random everywhere during his life. They are representative also in the fact that, odd as may be the superstructure, the foundation is always laid in that strong and manly commonsense which was one of his principal characteristics. " Jonathan's Visit to the Celestial Empire" had a certain basis in fact - what, I have been unable to ascertain, definitively. It is not unlikely that he heard the story when Secretary of the Navy Board, at Washington. The ginseng was a traditional part of the yarn. He has, probably through inadvertence, antedated it a little. Some very small vessels undoubtedly made the voyage to the East Indies, late in the eighteenth century. For example:- The brig Rose, of 82 tons, belonging to E. H. Derby, Nathaniel Silsbee commander, arrived at Salem from the East Indies in 1788.-The sloop Union, of 96 tons, John Boit master, sailed from Newport, August 29. 1794, for Canton, and arrived in Boston, July 11. 1796. "The History of Uncle Sam and his Boys", published February 19. 1831, has in view the various schemes agitated from time to time in Congress for a distribution among the States, sometimes of the public lands, sometimes of the surplus public revenue. In a modified form, the measure was eventually carried through, in 1836. As early as January 30, 1830, Mr. Paulding had written to Mr. Irving, then Secretary to the American legation.at the Court of St. James:" If you read the American papers, you will see that Congress is reckoning its chickens before they are hatched, and dividing a surplus revenue before they are out of debt. I am in hopes INTRODUCTION. iii something will turn up to oblige them to borrow money and run in debt again, for I had rather see this, than quarreling about the division of Uncle Sam's estate before he is dead. How all this wretched squabbling about the spoils of the General Government will end I know not, but it is evident to me that parties no longer involve principles; " &c. " The History of Uncle Sam and his Womankind ", published July 7. 1832- (as nearly on the National Anniversary as was possible in a weekly paper) -in like manner refers to the agitation which resulted, November 24, 1832, in the notorious nullification " ordinance " of South Carolina. It were well could these two papers pass into the popular mind. Mayhap, they are worthy the study of them that claim the standing of American statesmen. On the surface mere jokes of the day, they play over most of our sectional characteristics with an acuteness, and lay finger on certain allimportant national questions with a strength, that give them historical and daily value. They are imbued throughout with that broad spirit of nationality which was the very life of his mind, but which is as yet so rare among our leading men. Mr. Paulding was fond of writing apologues and fables, after the fashion of the East. In " Haschbasch, the Pearldiver ", he has effected a very ludicrous combination of Oriental scenery with thoroughly American idea. "Killing, No Murder" is one of the many, protests he uttered against that almost universal American failing, the desire of making as much show on one thousand dollars a year as can be made upon an income of fifty. "Six Weeks in the Moon" is Swiftian for vigor. Not so frightful and ghastly as the account of "the grand academy of Lagado ", which it in a measure recalls, it is perhaps equally searching. Of the same essential spirit, the work of the Xiv INTRODUCTION. later author is rendered more agreeable by the more genial character of the man. The idea is not a new one, nor was it for the first time worked by him in this paper. "Selections from the Journal of a late Traveller to the Moon" appeared in The New-York Mirror for June 7, 1834. As often happened with him, he seems to have forgotten this entirely. In the United States Review for June, 1853, he repeated the same general course of thought in a somewhat different shape. I give the article as an illustration — (one, among many that might be produced) —of how little his " natural force" was "abated" by reason of lengthened years. He was then close on to seventy-five. As an example of his sadder vagaries, I have closed the volume with a little essay, which formed originally one of the " Letters from the South ", and to which I have given the title " AA Mood of Nature and of Man." It is redolent of that old English "humour" which the literature of no other race has approached; and authorizes me, as I think, to make the remark, (which at least appears to me impartial), that he has done many things well, and some in a manner that has scarcely been surpassed. W I.. P. CONTENTS. PAGE EPISTLE DEDICATORY, AND PETITION.....3 PREFACE TO THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS... 11 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS....... 17 THE NYMPH OF THE MOUNTAIN......... 287 JONATHAN'S VISIT TO THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE.... 303 THE HISTORY OF UNCLE SAM AND HIS BOYs... 325 THE HISTORY OF UNCLE SAM AND HIS WOMANKIND.. 341 HASCHBASCH, THE PEARL-DIVER........ 363 KILLING, NO MURDER.............381 SiX WEEKS IN THE MOON...........395 A MOOD OF NATURE AND OF MAN........ 413 EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITTON. 1 TO THE RIGHT WORSHIPFUL THE MAYOR, ALDERMEN, AND COMMON COUNCIL OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF GOTHAM. RIGHT WORSHIPFUL: IT hath been from time immemorial a subject of contention among the learned, whether Osiris, Confucius, Zoroaster, Solon, Lycurgus, Draco, Nuna Pompilius, Mahomet, Peter the Great, Napoleon Bonaparte, Jeremy Bentham, or the author of the New Charter of Gotham, was, or is, the greatest law-giver. Without diving into the abstruse profundity of this knotty question, I myself am of opinion that it may be easily settled, by putting them all out of sight at once, as bearing no sort of comparison, in the art of concocting numerous laws and multifarious enactments, with your Honours of the Common Council. What constitutes greatness, but bulk, numbers, and dimensions? And who, of all legislators in every age, can compare with, or, as the vulgar say, hold a candle to, your Honours, in the length, breadth, profundity, and multiplicity of your laws? I am credibly informed, and do believe, — (nay, hath not 4 EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITION. my former participation in your counsels taught me?) -that, provided all the enactments of your Honourable Body (which, like the king, never dieth) were carefully collected in good substantial volumes, bound in calf, they would build another tower of Babel, and cause a second confusion of tongues, to the utter discomfiture and dispersion of the worthy citizens of Gotham. Another question, moreover, hath from time to time sorely puzzled the learned, to wit, whether offences do not increase in number exactly in proportion to the multiplication of the laws. I myself, with due submission, am inclined to believe that such is actually the case; seeing all experience teaches us that there is a pestilent itching in the blood towards the practice of disobedience. To forbid children to go out of their bounds is, peradventure, the most powerful incitement to wandering; and to caution them against dangers is the infallible way of making them run their heads into them. Even so with men and women, who are morally certain to be put in mind of the pleasure of transgressing, by the anticipation of punishment. They actually persuade themselves there must be something vastly delectable in the offence, to make it necessary to denounce such severe penalties against it. I do modestly assure your Honours that, no longer ago than yesterday, I saw a child burn its fingers with paper, for no other reason, that I could perceive, than because the mother had threatened to punish it if it did so. As a further illustration, I will, with your Honours' permission, instance the example of a decent, well-behaved, and indeed exemplary horse I once knew, who had been for years accustomed to pasture at will, in a common appertaining to our EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITION. 5 township, open on all sides to his excursions. Beyond this he was never known to stray one step. But, in process of time, our little corporation, impelled by the ever-busy spirit of improvement, unluckily passed a law for enclosing this common; and, from that fatal era, this horse seemed possessed with an invincible and wicked propensity to trespass and go astray. From being an example to all the animals of the town, he degenerated into all sorts of irregularities; was pounded three or four times a week; thrashed out of enclosures; and cudgelled from barn-yards. Finally, as I believe, he wilfully drowned himself in a swamp, where he never before dreamed of going. Having thus illustrated my position by the example of both reason and instinct, I will proceed to the prime objects of this, my humble Epistle Dedicatory and Petition. And firstly, my request is, that although, as I cannot deny, there is a great plenty, not to say superabundance of most valuable works, such as tracts, tales, romances, improved grammars, spelling-books, class-books, and all that sort of thing, coming out every hour of the day; yet is there a certain class of works, to wit, those that nobody buys or reads, that lack legislative encouragement and protection. Besides, your Honours, even if this were not the case, your Honours must be fully aware that there are certain good things of which the world cannot have too many, such as laws, colleges, paper dollars and paper books. If one law is not sufficient, the spirit of the age requires another exactly opposite in its provisions, so that, approaching as they do both before and behind, it is next to impossible for a criminal to escape. So, 6 EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITION. if there is not sufficient liberality in the public, or sufficient love of learned lore, to afford encouragement to one university, the only remedy for such sore evils is to establish another. Between two stools we must certainly fall to the earth, which every body knows is the most solid foundation after all for learning. In respect to paper-money, it is quite a sufficient indication of the necessity of having plenty of that invaluable commodity, to instance the avidity of every body for more. Besides, if it were not for the establishment of new banks, in a little while we should have no paper-money at all, seeing the number of old ones that become bankrupt every day. The wear and tear of these useful manufactories of paper is such as to require perpetual repairs. So with books: being, for the most part, forgot in a few weeks, in consequence of the perpetual supplies of novelty, it necessarily becomes proper to apply new stimulants to the spirit of the age and development of the human mind. The May-flies, that live but for a day, are as the sands of the sea in number, and are succeeded, hour after hour, by new generations of insects, who glitter in the noontide sun, and perish in the first dews of the evening. Now, forasmuch as this multiplication and quick succession of new books is calculated to interfere with, and circumscribe the circulation of, this my work, which I now lay at the feet of your Honours' munificence, I.humbly beseech your Honours to afford it your special protection, in the manner and form following, to wit: First. That you will cause your Finance-Committee to subscribe for a thousand, or (not to be particular) two thousand, copies, and direct a warrant to be is EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITION. 7 sued in favour of your petitioner for the amount. Professing himself a reasonable man, he hereby relinquishes all right of demanding that your Honours shall read them. Secondly. That your Honours will refer the historical piece, entitled and called, " Jonathan's Visit to the Celestial Empire," in this my book, to the WaterCommittee, with directions to report definitively a favourable criticism on its merits, sometime in the course of the present century, or as soon thereafter as practicable. Thirdly. That your Honours will be pleased to refer the memoir of Haschbash, the pearl-diver, unto the Committee on Applications for office, with peremptory directions to nominate your petitioner to some good fat place, with a liberal salary and nothing to do. Your humble petitioner, being by profession an anti-busybody, will engage to neglect his duties equally with any man living, except, perhaps, certain of the Street-Inspectors. Fourthly. That your munificent, patriotic, and lawgiving Honours, will in like manner refer the elaborate itinerary, styled, "THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS.", to a special Committee of Silence, with instructions to say nothing on the subject. If a sufficient number of silent members cannot be detected in your Honourable Body, your Honours will find plenty in Congress. Fifthly. That your Honourable Body will graciously instruct the Committee of Arrangements for the fourth of July and other masticatory celebrations, not to forget to invite your petitioner to the aforesaid jolly anniversaries, as hath been the case ever since 8 EPISTLE DEDICATORY AND PETITION. he had the misfortune to empty a bottle of champagne into the right worshipful pocket of the late worthy and lamented Alderman Quackenbush, of immortal memory. Sixthly. That your munificent Honours, being the patrons of literature, the fine arts, and the like, will, as an honourable testimony to the benefits this his work is likely to shower on the present age and on posterity, confer immortality on your humble petitioner, by voting him the freedom of the city in a gold box, taking especial care that it be not too large to be converted into a convenient snuffbox. Lastly. That your munificent Honours will take compassion on all idle and useless citizens and strangers, who, having (like your petitioner) nothing to do, are very apt to get tired; and, in due time, cause to be constructed a suitable number of cosy seats on the Battery, well lined and stuffed, with seemly high backs, for our special and exclusive accommodation. If your illustrious and industrious Honours only knew how idle your petitioner is, and what a horror he hath of a hard bench without a back, you would shed tears at beholding him luxuriating in agony on the Battery in the beautiful summer twilight. Many a worthy citizen, as he verily believes, hath been driven to the most enormous excesses of tippling and debauchery, by the utter impossibility of obtaining a moment's ease and relaxation upon those instruments of torture, miscalled benches, and, in a paroxysm of impatience, cast himself utterly away upon the quicksands of Castle Garden or the Battery Hotel. And your petitioner shall ever vote, &c. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS; AND GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. "ADIEU LA BOUTIQUE! " PRE FACE TO THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. EVER since the invention of steam-engines, steamboats, steam-carriages, Liverpool packets, railroads, and other delightful facilities for travelling, the march of the human body has kept pace with the march of the human mind, so that it is now a moot point which gets on the faster. If the body moves at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, the mind advances in an equal pace, and children of sixteen are in a fair way to become wiser than their grandfathers. While the grown-up gentleman goes to Albany in twelve hours, and comes back in forty-eight with a charter in his pocket, the aspiring school-boy smatters a language, or conquers a science, by the aid of those vast im-provements in the "machinery" of the mind, which have immortalized the age. In fact, there seems to be a race between matter and mind, and there is no telling which will come out first in the end. Legislators and philosophers may flatter themselves as they will, but they have little influence in shaping this world. The inventors of paper-money, cotton 12 PREFACE TO machinery, steam - engines, and steam - boats, have caused a greater revolution in the habits, opinions and morals of mankind, than all the systems of philosophy, aided by all the efforts of legislation. Machinery and steam-engines have had more influence on the Christian world than Locke's metaphysics, Napoleon's code, or Jeremy Bentham's codification; and we have heard a great advocate for domestic manufactures predict, that the time was not far distant when men and women and children would be of no use but to construct and attend upon machinery -when spinning-jennies would become members of Congress, and the United States be governed by a steam-engine of a hundred and twenty horse power. We confess ourselves not quite so sanguine, but will go so far as to say, that we believe the time may come when a long speech will be spun out of a bale of cotton by a spinning-jenny; a president of the United States be made by a combination of machinery; and Mynheer Maelzel be beaten at chess by his own automaton. Without diving deeper into such speculations, or tracing the effects of these vast improvements in the condition of mankind, who will soon have nothing to do but tend upon machinery, we shall content ourselves with observing that the wonderful facilities for locomotion furnished by modern ingenuity have increased the number of travellers to such a degree, that they now constitute a large portion of the human family. All ages and sexes are to be found on the wing, in perpetual motion from place to place. Little babies are seen crying their way in steam-boats, whose cabins are like so many nurseries —people who are THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 13 the most comfortable at home, are now most fond of going abroad - the spruce shopman exclaims, " Adieu La Boutique," and leaves the shop-boy to cheat the town for him - the young belle, tired of seeing and being seen in Broadway, breaks forth in all her glories in a new place at five hundred miles distance - bedrid age musters its last energies for an expedition to West Point, or the Grand Canal — and even the thrifty housewife of the villages on the banks of the Hudson, who heretofore was " all one as a piece of the house," thinks nothing of risking a blow-up, or a break-down, in making a voyage to New York to sell a pair of mittens, or buy a paper of pins. We have heard a great political economist assert, that the money spent in travelling between New York and Albany, in the last fifteen years, would go near to maintain all the paupers of the United States, in that, the purest possible, state of independence —to wit, a freedom from an ignominious dependence on labour and economy. It is high time, therefore, that the wandering Arabs of the West should have a code of laws and regulations for their especial government; and the principal design of the present work is to supply this desideratum. We have accordingly prepared a system of jurisprudence, which, we flatter ourselves, will not suffer in comparison, either with the code Napoleon, the code Bentham, or any other code which the march of mind hath begotten on the progress of public improvement in the present age. The traveller, if we mistake not, will find in it ample instructions, as to his outfit in setting forth for unknown parts - the places and things most worthy of attention in his route —the 14 PREFACE TO deportment proper in divers new and untried situations-and, above all, critical and minute instructions concerning those exquisite delights of the palate which constitute the principal object of all travellers of taste. In addition to this, we have omitted no opportunity of inculcating a passion for travelling, which, from long and laborious experience, we pronounce the most exquisite mode of killing time and spending money ever yet devised by lazy ingenuity. It would occupy our whole book, (which is restricted to a certain bulk, so as not to interfere with the ladies' bandboxes and the gentlemen's trunks), were we to indulge in a summary of all the delights and advantages of seeing new and distant parts. Unfortunately for us, we write solely for the benefit of the world, holding our own especial emolument in sovereign contempt; and, still more unfortunately, if this were not the case, we belong not to that favoured class of writers who can take the liberty of publishing in six royal octavos matter which mightbe compressed into one. We have only space to observe, that a man who has travelled to good purpose, and made a proper use of his opportunities, may commit as many blunders and tell as many good stories as he pleases, provided he confines himself to places where he has been and his hearers have not. Books are of no authority in opposition to an eye-witness; who is, as it were, like so many of our great politicians, ex officio, a judge of every thing. Two persons were once disputing, in a large company, about the Venus de Medici. One maintained that her head inclined a little forward to the right, the other that it inclined to the left. One had read THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 15 Winkelmann, and a hundred other descriptions of the statue. The other had never read a book in his life; but he had been at Florence, and had looked at the Venus for at least five minutes. " My dear sir, I ought to know; for I have read all the books that ever were written on the Venus de Medici." "My dear sir, I must know; for I have been at Florence, and seen her." Here was an end of the argument. All the company was perfectly satisfied that the man who had seen with his own eyes was right —and yet he was wrong. But seeing is believing, and being believed too. You may doubt what a man affirms on the authority of another; but, if he says he has seen the seaserpent, to question his veracity is to provoke a quarrel. Such are the advantages of seeing with our own eyes! Let us therefore set out without delay on the GRAND NORTHERN TOUR. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS, &c. IN compiling and excogitating this work, we have considered ourselves as having no manner of concern with travellers until they arrive in the city of New York, where we intend to take them under our especial protection. Doubtless, in proceeding from the south, there are various objects worth the attention of the traveller, who may take the opportunity of stopping to change horses or to dine, to look round him a little, and see what is to be seen. But, generally speaking, all is lost time until he arrives at New York, of which it may justly be said, that as Paris is France, so New York is — New York. It is here then that we take the fashionable tourist by the hand and assume the rale of cicerone. The city of New York, to which all travellers of taste resort from the remotest corners of the earth, and from whence they set out on what is emphatically called the GREAT NORTHERN TOUR, is situated at the confluence of two noble waters, and about eighteen miles from the Atlantic Ocean. But we have always thought it a singular piece of impertinence in the compilers of road-books, itineraries, and guides, 2 18 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. to take up the traveller's time in describing things he came expressly to see, and shall therefore confine ourselves to matters more occult, and inaccessible to transient sojourners. New York, though a very honest and well-intentioned city as times go, (with the exception of Wall Street, which labours under a sort of a shadow of suspicion), has changed its name almost as often as some graceless rogues, though doubtless not for the same reasons. The Indian name was Manhadoes; the Dutch called it New Amsterdam and New Orange; the English, New York, which name all the world knows it still retains. In 1673, it was a small village, and the richest man in it was Frederick Philipse, or Flypse, who was rated at eighty thousand guilders. Now it is the greatest city of the new world; the third, if not the second, in commerce, of all the world, old and new; and there are men in it, who were yesterday worth millions of guilders - in paper-money: what they may be worth to-morrow, we can't say, as that will depend on a speculation. In 1660, the salaries of ministers and public officers were paid in beaver skins: now they are paid in bank-notes. The beaver skins were always worth the money, which is more than can be said of the bank-notes. New York contains one university, and two medical colleges; the latter always struggling with each other in a noble spirit of generous, scientific emulation. There are twenty-two banks- good, bad, and indifferent; forty-three insurance companies — solvent and insolvent; and one public library: from whence it may be reasonably inferred, that money is plenty as dirt- insurancebonds still more so.- and that both are held in THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 19 greater estimation than learning. There are also one hundred churches, and about as many lottery-offices, which accounts for the people of New York being so much better than their neighbours. In addition to all these, there is an academy of arts, an athenaeum, and several other institutions for the discouragement of literature, the arts, and sciences. The academy languishes under the patronage ofnames. The athenaeum is a place where one may always meet with La Belle Assemble, Ackerman's Magazine, and the last number of Blackwood. In addition to these places of popular amusement and recreation, New York supports six theatres, of various kinds: from whence it may be inferred, that the people are almost as fond of theatres as churches. There was an Italian opera last year. But, Eheu fugaces, Posthume!, the birds are flown to other climes. Besides these attractions and ten thousand more, New York abounds beyond all other places in the universe, not excepting Paris, in consummate institutions for cultivating the noble science of gastronomy. The soul of Heliogabalus presides in the kitchens of our hotels and boarding-houses, and inspires the genius of a thousand cooks —not sent by the devil, as the old proverb infamously asserts, but by some special dispensation. There too will be found canvas-backs from the Susquehanna; venison from Jersey, Long Island, and Catskill; grouse from Hempstead Plains; snipe from the Newark meadows; and partridges from Bull Hill; which last, if the gourmand hath never eaten, let him despair. Then, as for fish!- 0 for a mouth to eat, or to utter 20 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. the names of, the fish that flutter in the markets of New York, silently awaiting their customers like so many pupils of Pythagoras. It is a pleasure to keep Lent here. It is impossible to enumerate them all: but we should consider ourselves the most ungrateful of mankind, were we to omit making honourable mention of the inimitable trout from the Fireplace, whose pure waters are alone worthy the gambols of these sportive Undinae; or of the amiable sheep'shead, whose teeth project out of his mouth as if to indicate that he longs to be eating up himself;* or of the blackfish, which offers a convincing proof that nature knows no distinction of colours, and has made the black skin equal to the white - at least among fishes; or of the delicious bass- the toothsome shad - and the majestic cod, from the banks of Newfoundland, doubly remarkable, as being almost the only good that ever came of banks. All these, together with countless varieties of smaller fry, offer themselves spontaneously to the experienced connoisseur, a new delicacy for every day in the year. We invoke them all! -thee, sea-green lobster of the Sound, best-beloved of southern invalids, a supper of whom is a sovereign cure for dyspepsia; thee luscious soft-crab, the discovery of whose unequalled excellence has made the city of Baltimore immortal; catfish and flounder, slippery eel and rough-shelled mussel; elephant-clam, which the mischievous boys of the Sound call by a more inglorious name;- we invoke ye all! And if we forget thee, O most puissant and imperial oyster, whether of Blue Point, York * The unlearned traveller will be careful not to confound the sheep'shead, with the head of a sheep, as did the honest Irishman at Norfolk. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 21 River, Chingoteague, or Chingarora, may our palate forget its cunning, and lose the best gift of heaven - the faculty of distinguishing between six different Madeira wines, with our eyes shut! All these and more may be seen of a morning at Fulton and Washington Markets; and the traveller who shall go away without visiting them has travelled in vain. Then, for cooking these various and transcendent excellencies, these precious bounties —Thee we invoke -thee of the Bank Coffee Baouse, who excellest equally in the sublime sciences of procuring and serving up these immortal dishes, and hast no equal among men, but the great SYKES, with whom thou didst erewhile divide the empire of the world. But, Eheufugaces, Posthume, too! the smoke of his kitchen, which bore up incense worthy of the gods, is now gone out- he himself is like a shadow long departed, and nothing is left of him but the recollection of his suppers and his' debts. Neither must we commit the crying sin of passing unnoticed and unhonoured the utterly famous gastronomium of the great DROZE, master of the twelve sciences that go to the composition of a consummate cook; nor the flagrant injustice of omitting to point the nose of the curious traveller to Him of the New Masonic Hatl,* great in terrapin soup - greater in fricassees and fricandeaux - greatest of all in a calf's head! Neither would we pass over the modest merits of HIM OF THE GOOSE AND GRIDIRON, who, like the skilful logician, can make the worse appear the better reason, and convert, by [* This building stood on the East side of Broadway, a little South of Pearl street. It is figured and described in the New-York Mirror of September 26, 1829.] 22 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. the magic of his art, material no more than so-so into dishes worthy the palates of the most erudite members of the Turtle Club, whose soup and whose jests are the delight of the universe. But we should never have done, were we to pass in review an hundred, yea, a thousand illustrious worthies, to be found in every street and lane of this eating city, who tickle the cunning palate in all the varieties of purse and taste, from a slice of roast beef and a glass of beer, at a shilling, to grouse and canvas-backs, and Bingham wine, at just as much as the landlord pleases. Suffice it to say, that if, as the best practical philosophers do maintain, the business of man's life is eating, there is no place in the universe where he can live to such exquisite purpose as in the renowned city of NEW YORK. We have heard it confessed by divers morose Englishmen, who had eaten and grumbled their way through all parts of Europe where there was any thing to eat, that they nowhere found such glorious content of the palate as at this happy emporium of all good things. If any corroboration of this testimony should be thought necessary, we will add the experience of twenty-five years of travel in various countries, during which we have tasted, by actual computation, upwards of five thousand different dishes. Still further, to establish the glories of our favourite city, we will adduce the authority of a young gentleman, who travelled several years on the continent, and approved himself a competent gourmand, by bringing home a confirmed dyspepsia. He has permitted us to insert a letter written originally to a friend at the south, which, besides setting forth the excellent attractions of NEW YORK, exemplifies in THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 23 a most striking manner the benefits derived from travel, which improving divertisement it is the design of our work to encourage and provoke by all manner of means. Truly did the great philosopher and moralist, Dr. Johnson, who passed all his life in the fear of death, truly did he inculcate the superiority of the knowledge derived from seeing, to all other knowledge. Who that hath visited the grand opera at Paris, but will have, all his life after, a more vivid impression of legs! Who that hath expatiated in the vast eating-houses of New York and Paris, but will cherish an increasing faith in the primary importance of the noble science of gastronomy! And who, that has once beheld the magnificent contrast between the king and his beggarly subjects in some parts of the old world, but must feel ennobled by the example of what human nature is capable of, if properly cultivated! But to our purpose. The letter alluded to is one of a series written by the members of a most respectable family from the south, to which we have politely been permitted access, and from which we shall occasionally borrow some others. STEPHEN GRIFFEN, ESQ. TO FRANK LATHAM. NEW YORK, Verily, Frank, this same New York is a place that may be tolerated for a few weeks, with the assistance of the Signorina, the unequalled cookery, and above all the divine Madame. Only think of a real, genuine opera-dancer in these parts! Five years ago, I should as soon have expected to see an Indian wardance at the Theatre Franpais. It is really a vast 24 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. comfort to have something one can relish after Paris. I think it bad policy for a young fellow to go abroad, unless he can afford to spend the rest of his life in New York. Coming home to a country life is like going from high-seasoned dishes to ham and chickens. Such polite people as one meets with abroad! they never contradict you as long as you pay them what they ask for every thing; —such a variety of dishes to eat! why, Frank, a bill of fare at a Parisian hotel is as long as a list of the passengers in Noah's ark or a Liverpool packet, and comprehends as great a diversity of animals. Nothing can equal it, except New York. And then, such a succession of amusements! Nobody ever yawned in Paris, except one of the real John Bulls, some of whom have their mouths always open, either to eat or yawn. To see a fat fellow gaping in the Louvre, you would think he came there to catch flies, as the alligators do, by lying with their jaws extended half a yard. How I love to recall the dear delights of the grand tour! and, as I write at thee, not to thee, Frank, I will incontinently please myself at this present, by recapitulating, if it be only to refresh my memory and make thee miserable at thy utter ignorance of the world. I staid abroad six years; just long enough to cast my skin, or shed my shell, as the snakes and crabs do every now and then. In France, I threw away my clod-hopping shoes, and learned to dance. I got a new stomach too, for I took vastly to Messrs. the restaurateurs. In Italy, I was drawn up the Apennines by six horses and two pair of oxen, and went to sleep every day for three weeks, at the feet of the Venus de Medici. There were other Venuses at whose THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 25 feet I did not go to sleep. I was, moreover, deeply inoculated, or rather, as the real genuine phrase is, vaccinated, with a raving taste for music, and operadancing, which last, in countries where refinement is got to such a pitch that nobody thinks of blushing, is worth, as Mr. Jefferson says of Harper's Ferry, " a voyage across the Atlantic." By the way, they have an excellent custom in Europe, which puts all the women on a par. They paint their faces so that one can't tell whether they blush or not. Impudence and modesty are thus on a level, and all is as it should be. Italy is indeed a fine place.. The women are so sociable, and the men so polite. France does pretty well; but even there they sometimes-particularly since the brutifying revolution —they sometimes so far forget themselves as to feel dishonour and resent insult. All this is owing to the bad example of that upstart Napoleon, and his upstart officers. Now, in Italy, when a gentleman of substance takes an affront, he does not dirty his fingers with the affair; he hires me a fellow whose trade is killing, and there is an end of the matter. Then it is such a cheap country. Every thing is cheap, and women the cheapest of all. Everything there, except pagan antiques, is for sale; and you can buy heaven of his holiness, for a hundred times less money than it costs to purchase the torso of a heathen god without legs or arms. In Germany, and especially at Vienna, they are excessively devout, and -what I assure you is, in very refined countries, not in the least incompatible -exceedingly profligate at the same time. I mean among the higher ranks. This is one of the great 26 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. secrets a young fellow learns by going abroad. If he makes good use of his time, his talents, and, above all, his money, he will discover the secret of reconciling a breach of the whole decalogue with the most exemplary piety. When I was first in Vienna, they had the Mozart fever, and half the city was dying of it. On my second visit, Beethoven was all the vogue. He was as deaf as a post- yet played and composed divinely; a proof- you, being of the pure Gothic, will say that music can be no great science, since it requires neither ears nor understanding. Beethoven had a long beard, and a most ferocious countenance; there was no more music in it than in a lion's. He was moreover excessively rude and disobliging, and would not play for the emperor unless he was in the humour. These peculiarities made him irresistible. The Beethoven fever was worse than the Mozart fever, a great deal. I ventured a third time to Vienna -and Beethoven was starving. They were all running after a great preacher, who, from being the editor of a liberal paper, had turned monk, and preached in favour of the divine right of the emperor, notwithstanding the diet and all that sort of trumpery. But music is their passion: it is the source of their national pride. I once said to a worthy banker who had charge of my purse-strings — " Really, monsieur, you are very loose in your morals, here." "Yes, but we are the most musical people in the world ", replied he triumphantly. " Your married ladies of fashion have such crowds of lovers." " Yes, but then they are so musical." " And then, from the prime minister Prince Metternich downwards, every man "of the least fash THE NEW MIIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 27 ion is an intriguer among women." "True, my dear sir: but then Prince Metternich has a private operahouse, and you hear the divinest music there." "And then the peasantry are in such a poor condition - so ignorant." " Ignorant, sir - you mistake - there is hardly one of them but can read music!" Music covers a multitude of sins at Vienna. It is worth while to go to Vienna only to see the peasantry — the female peasantry from the country, with bags, picking up manure, and singing perhaps an air of Mozart or Beethoven. In England I got the last polish - that is to say, I learned to box enough to get a black eye now and then, in a set-to with a hackney-coachman, or an insolent child of the night —videlicet, a watchman. Moreover, I learned to give an uncivil answer to a civil question; to contradict without ceremony; to believe that an American mammoth was not half so big as a Teeswater bull; that one canal was worth a dozen rivers; that a railroad was still better than a canal, and a tunnel better than either; that M'Adam was a greater man than the Colossus of Rhodes; that liberty was upon the whole rather a vulgar, ill-bred minx; and that a nation without a king and nobility was no better than a human body wanting that absolute requisite, the seat of honour. Finally, I brought home a great number of clever improvements -to wit, a head enlightened with a hundred conflicting notions of religion, government, morals, music, painting, and what not; and a heart divested of all those vulgarisms concerning love of country, with which young Americans are apt to be impestered at home. Thus, I may say I got rid of all my home-bred prejudices; for a man 28 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. can only truly be said to be without prejudices when he has no decided opinions on any subject whatever. Lastly, I had contracted a habit of liberal curiosity which impelled me to run about and see all the fine sights in the world. I would at any time travel a hundred miles to visit an old castle, or ogle a Canova or a Raphael. In short, I was a gentleman to all intents and purposes, for I could neither read, work, walk, ride, sit still, nor devote myself to any one object, for an hour at a time. This was my motive for coming hither. I came in search of sensation: whether derived from eating lobsters, or seeing opera-dancers, is all one to me. But, alas!, what is there here to see, always excepting the dinners and suppers, worth the trouble of opening one of one's eyes, by a man who has seen the Opera Frangais, the Palais Royal, the inside of a French cook-shop, the Pantheon, St. Peter's, the carnival, the coronation, and the punch of all puppet-shows, a legitimate king; besides rowing in a Venitian gondola, and crossing Mont St. Bernard on a donkey! Last of all, friend Frank, I brought home with me the genuine patent of modern gentility- a dyspepsy, which I caught at a famous restaurateur's, and helped to mature at the Palais Royal, where they sit up at nights, eat late suppers, and lie abed till five o'clock in the afternoon. But this dyspepsy, though excessively high-bred at that time, is now becoming vulgar. Since my arrival here, I have actually heard brokers and lottery-officekeepers complain of it. Besides, it spoils the pleasure of eating; and a man must have made the grand tour to little purpose, not to know that eating is one of the THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 29 chief ends of man. I vegetated about for a year or two, sans employment, sans amusement, sans every thing- except dyspepsia. The doctor advised hard work and abstinence, remedies ten times worse than the disease - to a man who has made the grand tour. " Get a wife, and go and live on a farm in the upper country." "Marry, and live in the country! - not if it would give me the digestion of an ostrich," exclaimed Signior Stephen Griffen. By the way, this same Christian name of mine is a bore. Griffen will do it smacks of heraldry; but Stephen puts one in mind of that degenerate potentate whose breeches cost him only half a crown, a circumstance in itself sufficient to stamp him with ignominy unutterable. Be this as it may, it pleased my doughty god-father, (whom I shall never forgive for not giving me a better name), to accede to the wishes of that exceedingly sensible rice-fed damsel, his pet niece, and my predestined rib, alias better half, to visit the springs at Ballston and Saratoga-the great canal-the great falls-and other great lions of these parts. So here we are established for ten days or a fortnight, for the purpose of taking a preparatory course of lobsters, singers, dancers, dust, and ashes. Broadway is a perfect cloud of dust. It has been M'Adamized-for which may dust confound all concerned. Thine, S. G. The approach to New York, either through the Narrows or the Kills, as they are called, is conspicuously beautiful, and worthy of the excellent fare to which the fortunate traveller who visits the city at a proper season is destined. And here we must cau 30 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. tion our readers to beware of all those unlucky months that are without the fortunate letter, R, which may be called the tutelary genius of oysters, inasmuch as no oyster can enjoy the pleasure of being eaten in New York during any of the barren months, which are without this delightful consonant. It is against the law, experience having demonstrated the ill effects of indulging in these delicious dainties in hot weather -witness the sudden deaths of divers common-councilmen after supper. For this reason most of the fashionable people go out of town during those infamous months that begin with May and end with August, not one of which contains the fortunate R, there being nothing left worth staying for. This period may justly be called the season of Lent. No canvas-backs- no venison -no grouse - no lobsters -no oysters; -nothing but lamb, and chicken, and green peas! No wonder all people of taste go out of town; for, as a famous prize-poet writes,." Without all these, the town's a very curse, Broadway a bore, the Battery still worse; Wall Street the very focus of all evil, Cook-shops a hell, and every cook the devil." * New York is not only beautiful in its approach, beautiful in itself, and consummate in eating: its liquors are inimitable -divine. Who has not tasted the " Bingham" - the " Marston" - the "Nabob " and the "Billy Ludlow!" Above all, who has not tasted of the unparalleled "Resurrection " wine - so called from its having once actually brought a man to * See a prize-poem on the opening of the Goose and Gridiron, for which the fortunate author received a collation and twelve oyster suppers, besides having his mouth stuffed full of sugar-candy, after the manner of the Persian poets. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 31 life, after he was stone-dead under the table. Nobody that ever had any of this wine ever died until he had no more of it left; and a famous physician once affirmed in our presence, that every drop was as good as a drop of buoyant, frisky, youthful blood, added to the body corporate. No wonder then that eating and drinking is the great business of life in New York, among people that can or cannot afford these exquisite dainties, and that they talk of nothing else at dinner; for, as the same illustrious prize-poet has it,"Five senses were, by ever-bounteous heaven, To the thrice-lucky son of Adam given. Seeing, that he might drink e'en with his eyes, And catch the promise that taste ratifies; Hearing, that he might list the jingling glass, That, were he blind, might unsuspected pass; Smelling, that, when the rest, mayhap, are gone, Will for their traitorous absence half-atone; And feeling, which,,when the dim, shadowy sight, No longer guides the pious pilgrim right, Gropes its slow way unerring to the shop, Where Dolly tosses up her mutton-chop, And sacred steams of roasted oysters rise, Like incense, to the lean and hungry skies." Of the manner in which the various manceuvres of gastronomy are got through with in New York, at dinners and evening parties, the following, which we have politely been permitted to copy from the unpublished letters we spoke of, will sufficiently apprise the courteous reader. It is high ton throughout, we assure him, though there are at present some symptomatic indications of a change for the better- (better at least according to the notions of Colonel Culpeper) -in the evening parties, from whence it is, we understand, contemplated to banish late hours, oysters, and 32 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. champagne. Against this last innovation we protest, in the name of posterity and the immortal gods. Banish beauty- banish grace -banish music, dancing, flirtation, ogling, and making love —but spare, O spare us the oysters and champagne! What will become of the brisk gallantry of the beaux, the elegant vivacity of the belles, the pleasures of anticipation, and the ineffable delights of fruition, if you banish oysters and champagne? The fashionable reader will be tempted to smile at the colonel's antediluvian notions of style and goodbreeding; but what can you expect from a man born and brought up among the high hills of Santee? His strictures on waltzing are especially laughable. What do women- we mean fashionable womendress and undress, wear bishops, and wind themselves into the elegantly-lascivious motions of the waltz, for?- but to excite sensation in the gentlemen, who ought to be eternally grateful for the pains they take. COLONEL CULPEPER TO MAJOR BRANDE. NEW YORK, May 6, 1827. DEAR MAJOR,- I have been so occupied of late in seeing sights, eating huge dinners, and going to evening parties to matronize Lucia, that I had no time to write to you. The people here are very hospitable, though not exactly after the manner of the high hills of Santee. They give you a great dinner or evening party, and then, as the sage Master Stephen Griffen is pleased to observe, "let you run." These dinners seem to be in the nature of a spasmodic effort, which THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 33 exhausts the purse or the hospitality of the entertainer, and is followed by a collapse of retrenchment. You recollect, who staid at my house during a fit of illness, for six weeks, the year before last. He has a fine house, the inside of which looks like an upholsterer's shop, and lives in style. He gave me an invitation to dinner, at a fortnight's notice. I ate out of a set of china, which, my lady assured me, cost seven hundred dollars, and drank out of glasses that cost a guinea a piece. In short, there was nothing on the table of which I did not learn the value, most especially the wine, some of which, mine entertainer gave the company his word of honour, stood him in eight dollars a bottle, besides the interest, and was half a century old. I observed, very gravely, that it bore its age so remarkably well that I really took it to be in the full vigour of youth. Upon which all the company set me down as a bore. In place of the pleasant chit-chat and honest jollity of better times, there was nothing talked of but the quality of the gentlemen's wines, which, I observed, were estimated entirely by their age and prices. One boasted of his Bingham; another, of his Marston; a third, of his Nabob; and a fourth, of his Billy Ludlow. All this was Greek to me, who was obliged to sit stupidly silent, having neither Bingham, nor Marston, nor Nabob, nor Billy Ludlow; nor indeed any other. wine of name or pedigree: for, the fact is, as you very well know, my wine goes so fast, it has no time to grow old. But there was one pursy, pompous little man at table, a foreigner I think, who (my lady whispered me) was worth a million and a half of dollars, and 3 84 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. who beat the others all hollow. He actually had in his garret a dozen of wine seventy years old, last grass, that had been in his family fifty years —which, by the way, as a sly neighbour on my right assured me, was farther back than he could carry his own pedigree. This seemed to raise him high above all competition, and gave great effect to several of the very worst jokes I ever heard. It occurred to me, however, that his friends had been little the better for the wine thus hoarded to brag about. For my part, I never yet met a real honest, liberal, hospitable fellow that had much old wine. Occasionally the conversation varied into discussions as to who was the best judge of wine, and there was a serious contest about a bottle of Bingham and a bottle of Marston, which I was afraid would end in a duel. All, however, bowed to the supremacy of one particular old gentleman, who made a bet that he would shut his eyes, hold his nose, and distinguish between six different kinds of Madeira. I did not think much of this, as a man don't drink wine either with his eyes or nose; but politely expressed my wonder, and smacked my lips, and cried, " Ah!" in unison with this Winkelmann of wine-bibbers, like a veritable connoisseur. There can be no doubt that these dinners are genteel and splendid, because every body here says so. But, between ourselves, major, I was wearied in spite of Bingham and Marston, and the Nabob. There wanted the zest, the ease, the loose gown and slippers, the elbow-room for the buoyant, frisky spirits to curvet and gambol in a little; without which your Bingham and canvas-backs are naught. In the midst of all this display, I sighed for bacon and greens, and merry THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 35 faces.* As I am a Christian gentleman, there was not the tithe of a good thing said at the table; and, to my mind, eating and drinking good things is nothing without a little accompanying wit and humour as sauce. The little pursy, important man of a million, it is true, succeeded several times in raising a laugh, by the weight of his purse rather than the point of his joke. The dinner lasted six hours, at the end of which the company was more silent than at the beginning, a sure sign of something being wanting. For my part, I may truly affirm, I never was at a more splendid dinner, or one more mortally dull. However, my friend paid his debt of hospitality by it, for I have not seen the inside of his house since. He apologizes for not paying me any more attention, by saying his house is all topsy-turvy with new papering and painting, but assures me that by the time we return in autumn madam will be in a condition to give us a little party. I believe he holds me cheap, because I have no dear wine that stands me in eight dollars a bottle.'Tis the fashion of the times, so let it pass. But, fashion or not, nothing in the range of common-sense can rescue this habit of cumbrous display and clumsy ostentation from the reproach of bad taste and vulgarity. This loading of the table with costly finery, and challenging our admiration by giving us the price of each article; this boasting of the age, the goodness, and, above all, the cost, of the wine, is little better than telling the guests, they are neither judges of what is valuable in furniture, nor commendable in * It is plain the colonel knows nothing of Tournure. Bacon and greens -stuff! 36 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. wines. Why not let them find these things out, themselves; or remain in most happy ignorance of the price of a set of china, and the age of a bottle of wine. It is for the tradesman to brag of his wares, and the wine-merchant of his wines, because they wish to sell them; but the giver of good things should never overwhelm the receiver with the weight of gratitude, by telling him their value. From the dinner-party, which broke up at nine, I accompanied the young people to a tea-party, being desirous of shaking off the heaviness of that modern merry-making. We arrived about a quarter before ten, and found the servant just lighting the lamps. There was not another soul in the room. He assured me the lady would be down to receive us in half an hour, being then under the hands of Monsieur Manuel, the hair-dresser, who was engaged till nine o'clock with other ladies. You must know this Manuel is the fashionable hair-dresser of the city, and it is not uncommon for ladies to get their heads dressed the day before they are wanted, and to sit up all night to preserve them in their proper buckram rigidity. Monsieur Manuel, as I hear, has two dollars per head, besides a dollar for coach-hire, it being utterly impossible for monsieur to walk. His time is too precious. We had plenty of leisure to admire the rooms and decorations, for Monsieur Manuel was in no hurry. I took a nap on the sofa, under a superb lustre which shed a quantity of its honours upon my best merino coat, sprinkling it handsomely with spermaceti. About half past ten, the lady entered in all the colours of the rainbow and all the extravagance of vulgar finery. I took particular notice of her head, THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 37 which, beyond doubt, was the masterpiece of Monsieur Manuel. It was divested of all its natural features, which I suppose is the perfection of art. There was nothing about it which looked like hair, except it might be petrified hair. All the graceful waving lightness of this most beautiful gift of woman was lost in curls, stiff and ungraceful as deformity could make them, and hair plastered to the head till it glistened like an overheated " gentleman of colour." She made something like an apology for not being ready to receive us, which turned, however, pretty much on not expecting any company at such an early hour. Between ten and eleven, the company began to drop in; but the real fashionables did not arrive till about half past eleven, by which time the room was pretty well filled. It was what they call a conversation party, one at which neither cards nor dancing made up any part of the amusement; of course therefore I expected to enjoy some agreeable chit-chat. Old bachelor as I am, and for ladies' love unfit, still I delight in the smiles of beauty; and the music of a sweet voice speaking intelligence is to me sweeter than the harmony of the spheres, or the Italian opera. Accordingly, I made interest for introductions to two or three of the most promising faces, and attempted a little small-talk. The first of these ladies commenced by asking me in a voice that almost made me jump out of my seat, if I had been at Mrs. Somebody's party, last week? To the which I replied in the negative. After a moment's pause, she asked me if I was going to Mrs. Somebody's party, the next evening? To the which, in like manner, I replied in the negative. Another pause, and another question, 38 THE NEW. MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. whether I was acquainted with another Mrs. Somebody, who was going to give a party? To this I was obliged to give another negation; when the young lady, espying a vacant seat in a corner on the opposite side, took flight without ceremony, and, by a puss-inthe-corner movement, seated herself beside another young lady, with whom she entered into conversation with a most interesting volubility. Though somewhat discouraged, I tried my fortune a second time, with a pale, delicate, and interestinglooking little girl, who I had fancied to myself was of ethereal race and lived upon air, she looked so light and graceful. By way of entering-wedge, I asked her the name of a lady, who, by the bye, had nothing very particular about her, except her dress, which was extravagantly fine. My imaginary sylph began to expatiate upon its beauty and taste in a most eloquent manner, and concluded by saying: "But it's a pity she wears it so often." Why so? ", why-because." Is it the worse for wear? " 0 dear, no; but then one sees it so often." But, if'tis handsome, the oftener the better, I should think; beauty cannot be too often contemplated, said I, looking in her face rather significantly. What effect this might have had upon her I can't say, for, just then, I observed a mysterious agitation among the company, which was immediately followed by the appearance of a number of little tables, wheeled into the room by servants in great force, and covered with splendid services of china, filled with pickled oysters, oyster soup, celery, dressed lobsters, ducks, turkeys, pastry, confectionery, and the Lord knows what besides. My little ethereal upon this started up, seated herself at a little round THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 39 marble table which was placed in the middle of the room, and commenced her supper, by the aid of two obsequious swains who waited on her with the spoils of the grand table. I never could bear to see a young woman eat when I was a young man, and I have never seen above half a dozen ladies who knew how to manage the work with pure sentimental indifference. It is at the best but a vulgar, earthly, matter-of-fact business, and brings all people on a level, belles and beaux, refined and not refined. It is, in truth, a sheer animal gratification, and a young lady should never, if possible, let her lover see her eat, until after marriage. Now, major, let me premise, that I am not going to romance one tittle when I tell you I was astounded at the trencher-feats of my little sylph. It was not in the spirit of ill-natured espionage, I assure you, that I happened to look at her as she took her seat at the little round table; but, having once looked, I was fascinated to the spot. Here follows a bill of fare which she discussed, and I am willing to swear to every item. Imprimis - Pickled oysters. Item - Oyster soup. Item - Dressed lobster and celery. Item - Two jellies. Item- Macaroons. Item - Kisses. Item - Whip-syllabub. Item - Blanc-mange. Item - Ice-creams. Item - Floating-island. 40 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Item - Alamode beef. Item - Cold turkey. Item - A partridge wing. Item - Roast duck and onions. Item - Three glasses of brown stout, &c. &c. Do you remember the fairy-tale, where a man eats as much bread in a quarter of an hour as served a whole city? I never believed a word of it till now. But all this is vulgar, you will say. Even so; but the vulgarity consists in eating so horrifically, not in noticing it. The thing is essentially ill-bred, and, should this practice continue to gain ground, there is not the least doubt that the number of old bachelors and maidens will continue to increase and multiply, in a manner quite contrary to Scripture. To conclude this heart-rending subject, I venture to affirm that assemblages of this kind ought to be called eating, instead of tea-drinking, or conversation, parties. Their relative excellence and attraction is always estimated, among the really fashionable, refined people, by the quality and quantity of the eatables and drinkables. One great requisite is plenty of oysters; but the sine qua non is oceans of champagne. Master Stephen, who is high authority in a case of this sort, pronounced this party quite unexceptionable, for there was little conversation, a great deal of eating, and the champagne so plenty, that nine first-rate dandies (including himself) got so merry that they fell fast asleep on the lounges of the supper-room up stairs. I can answer for king Stephen, who was discovered in this situation at three in the morning when the fashionables began to think of going home. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 41 For my part, major, I honestly confess, I was again wearied, even unto yawning desperately in the very teeth of beauty. But I don't lay it altogether to the charge of the party, being somewhat inclined to suspect that the jokes of the little man of a million, and the Bingham wine, were partly at the bottom of the business. I wonder how it came into the heads of people of a moderate common-sense, that old wine could ever make people feel young, and, consequently, merry. There is gout, past, present and future —gout personal, real, and hereditary -lurking at the bottom of old wine; and nothing can possibly prevent this universal consequence of drinking it, but a natural and incurable vulgarity of constitution, which cannot assimilate itself to a disease of such genteel origin. I have since been at several of these first-rate fashionable conversaziones, where there was almost the same company, the same eatables and drinkables, and the same lack of pleasing and vivacious chat. I sidled up to several little groups, whose loud laugh and promising gestures induced me to believe there was something pleasant going on. But I assure you nothing could equal the vapid insignificance of their talk. There was nothing in it, but, " La, were you at the ball last night? "- and then an obstreperous roar of ill-bred, noisy laughter. There is no harm in people talking in this way, but it is a cruel deceit upon the unwary, to allure a man into listening. In making my observations, it struck me that many of the young ladies looked sleepy, and the elderly ones did certainly yawn most unmercifully. There was, at one of these polite stuffings, an elderly lady, between whose jaws and mine a desperate sympathy grew up 42 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. and flourished. Our mouths, if not our eyes, may truly be said to have met in this accord of inanity, and twenty times in the course of the evening did we involuntarily exchange these tokens of mutual goodunderstanding. The next party we happened to meet at, I determined to practise the most resolute selfdenial. But it would not do; there was an awful and irresistible attraction about the maelstrom of her mouth, that drew me toward its vortex, and we have continued to yawn at each other whenever we have met since. Wherever I turn my eyes, the cavern opes before me, and my old habit df yawning has become ten times more despotic than ever. But, seriously speaking, it is not to be wondered at that the indefatigable votaries of fashion should look sleepy at these parties. Some of them have sat up all the night before, perhaps, in order not to discompose the awful curls of Monsieur Manuel. Others, (and, I am told, the major part of them), have been at parties five nights in the week, for two or three months past. You will recollect that, owing to the absurd and ridiculous aping of foreign whims and fashions, these evening parties do not commence till the evening is past, nor end till the morning is come. Hence it is impossible to go to one of them without losing a whole night's rest, which is to be made up by lying in bed the greater part of the next day. Such a course, for a whole season, must prostrate the physical and moral strength, and convert a young woman into a mere machine, to be wound up for a few hours by the artificial excitements of the splendours of wealth, the vain gratification of temporary admiration, or the more substantial stimulus of the bill of fare of THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 43 the sylph ethereal aforesaid. It is no wonder that their persons are jaded, their eyes sunk, their chests flattened, their sprightliness repressed by midnight revels, and that they supply the absence of all these by artificial allurements of dress, and artificial pulmonic vivacity. You will wonder to hear a chivalrous old bachelor rail at this ill-natured rate. But, the truth is, I admire the last best work so fervently, that I can't endure to see it spoiled and sophisticated by a preposterous imitation of what is called the fashion; and so love the native charms of our native beauties, that it grieves my heart and rouses my ire to see them thus blighted and destroyed, in the midnight chase of a phantom miscalled pleasure. Not three years ago, I am told, it was the custom to go to a party at eight, and come away at twelve, or sooner. By this sober and rational arrangement, a young lady might indulge in the very excess of fashionable dissipation, without absolutely withering the roses of her cheeks, and dying at thirty of premature old age. But, in an evil hour, some puppy, who, like my Master Stephen, had seen the world, or some silly woman that had been three months abroad, came home, and turned up the nose at these early vulgarities —telling how the fashionable parties began at midnight and ended at sunrise, and how the foreigners all laughed at the vulgar hours of the vulgar parties of the vulgar republicans. This was enough. Mistress Somebody, the wife of Mr. Such-a-one, who had a fine house in a certain street, "with folding doors and marble mantel-pieces," and all that sort of thing, set the fashion, and now the gentility of a party is estimated in no small degree by the hour. If you want 44 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. to be tolerably genteel, you must not go till half past nine - if very genteel, at ten - if exceedingly genteel, at eleven; -but if you want to be superlatively genteel, you must not make your appearance till twelve. The crying absurdity of this disposition, in a society where almost every person at these parties has business or duties of some kind to attend to by nine o'clock the next day, must be apparent. The whole thing is at war with the state of society here, and incompatible with the system of domestic arrangements and out-door business. It is a pitiful aping of people abroad, whose sole pursuit is pleasure, and who can turn day into night, and night into day, without paying any other penalty than the loss of health and the abandonment of all pretensions to usefulness. If our travelled gentry cannot bring home something more valuable than these mischievous absurdities, they had better stay at home. They remind me of our good friend Sloper, who spent seven years, travelling in the east, and brought nothing home with him but an excellent mode of spoiling rice and chickens, by cooking them after the Arabian fashion. Among the most disgusting of these importations is the fashion of waltzing, which is becoming common here of late. It was introduced, as I understand, by a party of would-be fashionables, that saw it practised at the operas with such enchanting languor, grace, and lasciviousness, that they fell in love with it, and determined to bless their country by transplanting the precious exotic. I would not be understood as censuring those nations among whom the waltz is, as it were, indigenous —a national dance. Habit, example, and practice from their earliest youth, accustom THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 45 the women of these countries to the exhibition, and excuse it. But for an American woman, with all her habits and opinions already formed, accustomed to certain restraints, and reared in certain notions of propriety, to rush at once into a waltz, and to brave the just sentiment of the delicate of her own and the other sex with whom she has been brought up and continues to associate, is little creditable to her good sense, her delicacy, or her morals. Every woman does, or ought to, know, that she cannot exhibit herself in the whirling and voluptuous windings of a waltz, without calling up in the minds of men feelings and associations unworthy the dignity and purity of a delicate female. The free motions - the upturned eyes - the die-away languors - the dizzy circlings - the twining arms - the projecting front - all combine to waken in the bosom of the spectator analogies, associations, and passions, which no woman, who values the respect of the world, ought ever willfully to challenge or excite. I must not forget one thing that amused me, amid all this aping and ostentation. I was at first struck with the profusion of servants, lamps, china, and silver forks at these parties; and could not help admiring the magnificence of the entertainer, as well as his wealth. But by degrees it began to strike me, that I had seen these things before; and at last I fairly detected a splendid tureen, together with divers elegant chandeliers and lamps, which I had actually admired the night before at a party in another part of the town. As to my old friend Simon, and his squires of the body, he and I are hand and glove. I see him and his people, and the tureen, and the china, and the 46 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. lamps, everywhere. They are all hired, in imitation of the fashionable people abroad. They undertake for every thing here, from furnishing a party to burying a Christian. I can't help thinking it is a paltry attempt at style. But adieu, for the present. I am tired - are not you? If ever the pure and perfect system of equality was completely exemplified upon earth, it will be found in New York, where it is the fashion to dress without any regard to time, purse, station. There is no place where the absurd, antiquated maxim, about cutting your coat according to your cloth, is so properly and consummately cut, as here, where a full dress is indispensable on all occasions, particularly in walking Broadway or going to church. Whoever wishes to see beauty in all its glory must walk Broadway of a morning, or visit a fashionable church —for there is a fashion in churches -on a fine Sunday. On these occasions it is delightfully refreshing to see a fashionable, looking like a ship on a gala-day, dressed in the flags of all nations. Many cynical blockheads, who are at least a hundred years behind the march of mind and the progress of public improvements, affect to say that this beautiful and florid style of dressing in the streets or at church is vulgar; but we denounce such flagrant fopperies of opinion, maintaining that, so far from being reprehensible, it is perfectly natural, and therefore perfectly proper. The love of finery is inherent in our nature; it is an inborn appetite: and all experience indicates that the more ignorant and unsophisticated people are, the more fond are they of gewgaws. The negro, (meaning no of THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 47 fence, as it is an illustration, not a comparison), the African negro adores a painted gourd, decked with feathers of all colours; the Nooheevans affect the splendours of a great whale's-tooth; the Esquimaux will starve themselves, to purchase a clam-shell of red paint; the Indians sell their lands for red leggins and tin medals; and the whites run in debt for birds-ofparadise, French hats, travelling-chains, and Cashmere shawls. All this is as it should be, and, so far from betokening effeminacy or undue refinement, is a sure indication of an approach to the primitive simplicity of nature. This barbarous, or, more properly, natural, taste or passion for finery pervades all classes of people in this delightful city, and if there is any superiority of dress observable, it is among the most vulgar and ignorant; in other words, those who are nearest to a state of nature. The maid is, if possible, finer than the mistress; displays as many feathers and flowers, and exhibits the same rigidity of baked curls, so that, in walking the streets, were it not for that infallible private mark of a gentlewoman, the foot and ankle, nobody but their friends could tell the difference. There are, as we have been credibly informed, Lombard and Banking Companies incorporated by the legislature, on purpose to maintain this beautiful equality in dress, every article of which, from a worked muslin to a lace veil, may be hired, " at prices to accommodate customers," so that a fine lady can be fitted out for a cruise, at a minute's warning. This beautiful exemplification of a perfect equality extends to the male sex also. He that brushes his master's coat often wears a better coat than his mas 48 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. ter; and Cuffee himself, the free gentleman of colour, struts up and down Broadway, arm-in-arm, fourabreast, elbowing the fine ladies, clothed from head to foot in regent's-cloth of fourteen dollars the yard. All this redounds unutterably to the renown of the city, and causes it to be the delight of sojourners and travellers, who, instead of having their eyes offended and their feelings outraged by exhibitions of inglorious linsey-woolsey and vulgar calico, see nothing all around them but a universal diffusion of happiness. What is it to us tourists where the money comes from, or who pays for all this? The records of bankruptcy and the annals of the police are not the polite studies of us men of pleasure, nor have we any concern with the insides of houses or the secrets of domestic life, so long as the streets look gay, and every body in them seems happy. What is it to us, if the husband or the father of the gay butterfly we admire as she flutters along, clothed in the spoils of the four quarters of the globe, is at that very moment shivering in the jaws of bankruptcy, perspiring out his harassed soul in inward anxieties to weather another day of miserable splendours, and resorting to all the mean, degrading expedients of the times, to deceive the world a little longer. The city is charming - the theatres and churches are full of splendours; the hotels and boarding-houses abound in all that can pamper the appetite; the habitations are all showily furnished; all that we see is delightful; and as to what we don't see, it exists not to us. We travellers belong to the world, and the world, with the exception of its cares and troubles, belongs to us. Now, as there is a highly meritorious class of travel THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 49 lers, who are almost continually in motion and never stay long in one place if they can help it, to whom it may be important to know the secrets of the art of living, as the butterflies live, without toiling or spinning, and tasting all the fruits of the field without having any fields themselves, we commend them to the records of bankruptcy, the police, and the QuarterSessions. It is there they will become adepts in this most important of all branches of human knowledge. Any fool may live by working and saving: but to live, and live well too, by idleness and unthrift — to enjoy the luxuries of taverns, fine clothes, canvas-backs, turtle-soup, and Bingham wine, without money, and without credit -is the summum bonum, and can only be attained by long experience, and a close attendance upon the police-courts. If High-Constable Hays would only give to the world, agreeably to the fashion of the times, his " Reminiscences," what a treasure they would be to the class of tourists we are addressing There they might behold the grand drama of life behind the scenes, and under the stage; there they might learn how to dress elegantly at the expense of those stupid blockheads who prefer living by the sweat of their own brows to living by the sweat of those of other people; there they would be taught by a thousand examples, not how to cut their coats according to their own cloth, but that of their neighbours, and learn how easy it is to be a fine gentleman -that is to say, to live at a hotel, get credit with a tailor, diddle the landlord and the doctor, and pick a few pockets and a few locks, by way of furnishing one's self with a watch and a diamond breast-pin. There, too, they would learn how a little staining of the 4 50 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. whiskers, a new wig, and an alias, enable a man to come forth from the state-prison, "redeemed, regenerated, and disenthralled," by the irresistible genius of universal philanthropy. Seriously therefore do we hope the high-constable will employ his otium cum dignitate in a work of this kind, for the benefit of the inexperienced in the art of raising the wind. But to return from this digression, which we have indulged in from motives of pure philanthropy. By the way, we shall frequently, in the course of this work, encourage these little excursive irregularities of the pen, being firmly of opinion that no person ought to make the Grand Northern Tour who has any better use for his money than in buying, or for his time than in reading, this book. In New York there is an unfailing round of amusements, for every hour of the day as well as the night. There is the Academy of Arts, where the amateur of painting may see pictures which cost more than Domenichino received for his communion of St. Jerome, or. Raphael for his masterpiece; and which, strange to say, are not worth above half as much. Nothing is more easy than to kill an hour or two of a dull morning at the Academy, from whence we would advise the intelligent tourist, if of the male sex, to adjourn to the far famed gastronomium, (in the vernacular, oyster-stand), of Jerry Duncan, who certainly opens an oyster with more grace and tournure than any man living. But alas! how' few — how very few, in this degenerate age, understand the glorious mysteries of eating! Some fry their oysters in batterinfamous custom! Some sophisticate them with pepper and salt — (that ought to be a state-prison THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 51 offence!) -some with vinegar and butter- (away with them to the tread-mill!) Others stew, broil, roast, or make them into villanous pies - hard labour for life, or solitary imprisonment, ought to be the lot of these. And others, O murder most foul!, cut them in two before they eat them; a practice held in utter abhorrence by all persons of common humanity this ought to be death by the law. As our reader loves oysters - as he aspires to become an adept in the great science- as he hopes to be saved- let him never cut his oyster in two pieces, or eat it otherwise than raw. If his mouth is not large enough to swallow it whole, let him leave it with a sigh to the lips of some more fortunate being, to whom nature has been more bountiful. A reasonable sojourn at Jerry's will bring round the hour to one o'clock, when it is proper to take the field in Broadway, or at least to go home and prepare for that solemn duty. From this till dinner, the intelligent tourist can employ his time to great advantage, in walking back and forth from the Battery to the south corner of Chambers Street. Beyond this he must not stir a step, as all besides is terra incognita to the fashionable world. People will think you are going to Cheapside, or Bond Street, or Hudson Square, or some other haberdashery place, to buy bargains, if you are found beyond the north corner of the Park. At three, return to your lodgings to dress for dinner. This must positively be celebrated in Broadway, in one of those majestic old houses which the piety of young heirs consecrates to the god of eating, in honour of their ancestors. We are not ignorant that some ill-natured people affirm this is not their motive, but that they are actuated by 52 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. the filthy lucre of gain, in thus turning their fathers' homes into dens of tourists; but we ourselves are fully convinced they are impelled by sheer public spirit, warmed by the irresistible effervescence of universal philanthropy, the warmth of which pervades this whole city, insomuch that there is scarcely a place extant where people are more cordially taken in. Let no one blame these pious young heirs, since, in the east, nobody but kings and saints built caravanseras for the accommodation of travellers; and, in the west, none but people of a devout and royal spirit erect taverns. The only difference is, and it is not very material, the caravanseras charge nothing for lodging travellers, and the taverns make them pay double. And now comes the hour-the most important hour of every day between the cradle and the grave - THE DINNER HOUR! On this point it is necessary to be particular. Look out for the sheep's-head, the venison, the canvas-backs. Don't let your eyes, any more than your mouth, be idle a moment; but be careful not to waste your energies on common-place dishes. First, eat your soup as quick as possible without burning your mouth. Then your fish then your venison - then your miscellaneous delights- and conclude with game. At the climax comes the immortal canvasback, whose peculiar location to the south,* in our opinion gives a decided superiority to that favoured portion of the universe; and entitles it to furnish the less favoured parts of the United States with presidents, so long as it furnishes us with this incomparable water-fowl. From our souls, which according to * We have heard that canvas-backs have been seen in Rhode Island. If the natives can prove this, we think they ought to furnish the next president. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 53 some good authorities are seated in the palate - from our souls, we pity the wretched inhabitants of the old world wretched in the absence of even tolerable oysters, and wretched beyond all wretchedness in the utter destitution of canvas-backs and Newtown pippins. Respecting wines, there is some diversity of opinion. Some prefer French wines, such as Burgundy, Chateau-Margaux, Lafitte, Latour, Sauterne, and Sillery. Others affect the purple and amber juices of the Rhine, affirming that the real Johannisberg is inimitable. Others again prefer the more substantial product of Spain, Portugal, and the veritable Hesperides - the group of the Madeiras -maintaining that the existence of the people of this world, before the discovery of these last, is one of those miracles not to be accounted for, like that of a toad in a block of marble. As there is no such thing as accounting for tastes, or reconciling them, we would propose an amicable medium, that of sipping a little of each in the course of the afternoon, thus reconciling the conflicting claims of these most exquisite competitors. A bottle of each would be rather too much for the head or pocket of a single amateur, wherefore we would recommend some half a dozen to club their wines, by which means this objection would be obviated. By the time these ceremonies are got through, the company will be in a condition to adjourn to the theatres, with a proper zest for the Flying Dutchman, Peter Wilkins, and " I've been roaming." After sitting or sleeping out these elegant spectacles, it is reasonable to suppose our traveller will be hungry, and, being hungry, it is reasonable that he should eat. 54 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Wherefore it is our serious advice that he adjourn forthwith to the Goose and Gridiron. After partaking of a good supper there he may go anywhere he pleases, except home, it being proper that a rational and enlightened traveller should make the most of his time. To the young female tourist, encumbered with time and papa's money, New York affords inexhaustible resources. The mere amusement of dressing for breakfast, for Broadway, and for dinner, and undressing for evening parties, is a never-failing refuge from ennui. In the intervals between dressing, shopping, visiting, and receiving visits, it is advisable for her, if she is fond of retirement and literary pursuits, to seat herself at one of the front windows, on the groundfloor of the hotel, with a Waverley or a Cooper, where she can comport herself after the fashion of people in divers old-fashioned pictures which I have seen; that is to say, hold her book open, and at the same time complacently contemplate the spectators. The following list of " Resources" is confidently recommended to our female travelling readers. Lying in bed till ten. Dressing for breakfast. N. B. If there is nobody in the hotel worth dressing for, any thing will do: or, better, take breakfast in bed, and another nap. Breakfast till eleven. N. B. It is not advisable to eat canvas-backs, oysters, or lobsters, at breakfast. A little smoked salmon, a modicum of frizzled beef, or a bit of chicken about as big as a bee's wing, is all that can safely be indulged. N. B. Beefsteaks and mutton-chops are wholly inadmissible, except for married ladies. Twelve to one. Dress for shopping. N. B. The THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 55 female tourist must put on her best, it being the fashion in New York for ladies and their maids to dress for walking as if they were going to church or a ball. Care must be taken to guard against damp pavements, by putting on prunello shoes. If the weather is dry, white satin is preferable. One till three. Sauntering up and down Broadway, and diversifying the pleasure by a little miscellaneous shopping —looking in at the milliners, the jewellers, &c. N. B. No lady should hesitate to buy any thing because she does not want it, since this dealing in superfluities is the very essence of everything genteel. Above all, never return home but with an empty purse. At three, the brokers, who set the fashion in New York, go home to their canvas-backs and Bingham wine, and it becomes vulgar to be seen in Broadway. Dinner at four, the earliest hour permitted among people of pretensions. Owing to the barbarous practice of banishing ladies from all participation in the learned discussions of wines, the period between dinner and dressing for the evening party is the most trying portion of female existence. If they walk in Broadway, they will see nobody worth seeing; of course, there is no use in walking. A nap, or a Waverley, or perhaps both, is the only resource. It will be expedient to wake up at eight, for the purpose of dressing for a party; else there is no earthly reason why you may not sleep till half-past-ten or eleven, when it is time to think of going, or you may possibly miss some of the refreshments. N. B. A lady may eat as much as she pleases at a ball, or a conversazione. 56 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Should there be no party for the evening, the theatres are a never-failing resource of intellectual enjoyment. The sublime actions of The Flying Dutchman and Peter Wilkins, and the sublime displays in " I've been roaming," t cannot fail to enlighten the understanding, refine the taste, and improve the morals of the rising generation, as well as, if not better than, bridewell or the penitentiary. N. B. The bashful ladies generally shut both their eyes at, " I've been roaming." Those who retain a fragment of the faculty of blushing, open only one eye; but such as are afraid of nothing, use a quizzing-glass, that nothing may escape them. After all, there is nobody that can do full justice to the ever-changing shadows and lights of fashionable dress, manners, and amusements, but a sprightly girl, just come out with all her soaring anticipations unclipped by experience, and all her capacities of enjoyment fresh and unsoiled. We will therefore take occasion to insert in this place two letters, written by a young lady of the party from whose correspondence we have already made such liberal selections. LUCIA CULPEPER TO MARIA MEYNELL. NEW YORK, MY DEAR MARIA, - I could live here forever. We have a charming suite of rooms fronting on Broadway, that would be a perfect paradise, were it not [ " Peter Wilkins, or The Flying Islanders," and "The Flying Dutchman", were spectacular dramas of the day -the first-named, fairy, the second, nautical.] [t This was a song arranged by Charles E. Horn for Madame Vestris, in London.] THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 57 for the noise, which prevents one's hearing one's self speak, and the dust, which prevents one's seeing. But still it is delightful to sit at the window with a Waverley, and see the moving world forever passing to and fro, with unceasing footsteps. Everybody, as well as everything, appears to be in motion. The carriages rattle through the streets; the carts dance as if they were running races with them; the ladies trip along in all the colours of the rainbow; and the gentlemen look as though they actually had something to do. They all walk as if they were in a hurry.. On my remarking this to my uncle, he replied, in his usual sarcastic manner:' Yes, they all seem as if they were running away from an indictment." I did not comprehend what he meant. Every thing is so differrent, that it does not seem to me possible that I should be in the same wbrld, or that I am the same person I was a month ago. Sitting at my window on the high hills of Santee, I saw nothing but the repose, the stillness, and the majesty of nature. At a distance, and all around, the world was no more than a faint outline of blue mountains that seemed almost incorporated with the skies. Nothing moved around me, but the mists of morning, rising at the beck of the sun; the passing clouds; the waving foliage of the trees; the little river winding through the valley; and the sun riding athwart the heavens. The silence was only interrupted at intervals by the voice or the whistle of the blacks, about the house or in the fields; the lowing of the cattle wandering in the recesses of the hills; the echo of the hunter's gun, or the crash of the falling tree; the soft murmurings of the river under the 58 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. window; and, sometimes, the roaring of the whirlwind through the forest, or the reverberation of the thunder among the distant rocks. My uncle was master of all that could be seen without - I, mistress of all within. There all was nature- here all is art. Every thing is made with hands, except the living things; and, of these, the ladies and gentlemen may fairly be set down as the work of the milliners and tailors. Even the horses are sophisticated, as my uncle will have it; and, instead of having long, flowing tails and manes, amble about with ears, tail, and mane cropt, as if they had been under the hands of the barber. But when I look in the glass, it seems that not all the changes of animate and inanimate nature equal those I exhibit in my own person. The morning after I came here, I received a circular; don't let your eyes start out of your head, Maria-yes, a circular: and from whom do you suppose? Why, a milliner! Only think what a person of consequence I must be, all at once It informed me, in the politest terms, that Madame had just received an assortment of the latest Paris fashions, which would be opened for inspection the next day. I was determined to have the first choice of a hat; so I got up early, and proceeded with Henney to the milliner's rooms, which, to my great surprise, I found full of fine ladies, who, as I afterwards understood, had not been up at such an hour since the last fashionable exhibition of Parisian finery. You never saw such a crowd; such tumbling of silks and gauzes; such perplexity of choice; such profound doubts; such hesitating decision; such asking of everybody's opinions, THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 59 and following none; and such lingering, endless examinations. There was one lady that tried on every hat in the place, and went away at last in despair. I don't wonder, for it was the choice of Hercules, not between two, but between hundreds. For my part, I did nothing but wonder. You never saw such curiosities as these Parisian hats. It is quite impossible to describe them: I can only give you an idea of the size, by saying that mine, which is very moderate, measures three feet across, and has a suit of embellishments, bows, puffs, points, feathers, flowers, and wheat-sheaves, that make it look almost twice as large. The rule is, here, for the smallest ladies to wear the largest hats, so that my uncle insists upon it they look like toad-stools, with a vast head and a little stem. Mine was the cheapest thing ever offered for sale in New York, as madame assured me; it cost only twenty-eight dollars. It would not go into the bandbox, so Henney paraded it in her hand. A man on horseback met her just as she was turning a corner, and the horse was so frightened that he reared backwards and came very near throwing his rider. One of our horses is lame, and my uncle has advertised for one that can stand the encounter of a full-dressed fine lady. If he can do that, the old gentleman says, he can stand any thing. The next thing I did was to bespeak a couple of walking-dresses - one of batiste, the other of silk plaid. They cost me only fifty-six dollars, which was quite moderate, seeing they had, or were said to have, in the bill, ninety odd yards of one thing or another in them. I believe I must drop my money in the street, for I am almost ashamed to apply to my uncle so 60 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. often. He takes it all good-humouredly, for he is a generous old soul - only he has his revenge, in laughing at me, and comparing me to all sorts of queer things. I was surprised, when I first went out, to see what beautiful curling hair they all had - ladies, ladies' maids, and little babies, all had the most charming profusion you ever saw. This struck me very much, as you know very few have curling hair to the south, except the negroes. And such curls, too!'Dear me, Maria, it would make your hair stand on end to see them. They look more like sausages than any thing else -and I thought, to be sure, they must be starched. On expressing my admiration to Stephen, he laughed outrageously, and assured me most solemnly, that every one of these sausages was purchased —not at the sausage-makers, but at the curl-shops, where you could buy them either of horsehair, mohair, or human hair, and of any size and colour you pleased. He assured me it was impossible to live five minutes in New York without them, and advised me to procure a set without delay. You'd laugh to see mine. They are as stiff as the powder and pomatum of Doctor Brady's wig could make them: they are hollow in the middle, which my uncle assures me is very convenient, now that the ladies wear no pockets. One can put a variety of small matters in them as we did in our muffs, formerly. Do you know, they bake them in the oven to make them stiff. My uncle gives another reason for it, which I won't tell you. My bonnet and curls seem to have almost conquered Stephen, who declares he has seen nothing equal to my "costume," as he calls it, since he left TIE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 61 Paris. He has actually offered to walk with me in Broadway, and did us the honour to go with us to the theatre, one stormy night. To be sure, Madame danced. You never saw such droll capers, Maria: I declare I hardly knew which way to look. But all the ladies applauded; so I suppose I don't know what is proper, not having seen much of the world. Stephen was in ecstacies, and bravoed and encored, till my uncle bade him be quiet, and not make a jackanapes of himself. I was delighted with the theatre. It is lighted with gas; and the play was one of the finest shows I ever beheld;- processions -thunder and lightning, and dancing- fighting- rich dresses - a great deal of fiddling, and very little poetry, wit, or sense. I was a little disappointed at this: but Stephen says, nothing is considered so vulgar as a sensible, well-written play. Music and dancing are all in all - and, as it is much easier to cut capers, and produce sounds without sense than with it, this is an excellent taste for it saves a great deal of useless labour in writing plays, as well as acting them properly. I sometimes think Stephen's notions are a little strange; and my heart, as well as my understanding, revolts at some of his decisions. But he has been abroad, and ought to know. Sometimes I think I should like to know Graves' opinion: but he hardly ever speaks unless spoken to; and ever since I got such a great bonnet, and such great curls, he scarcely seems to know me. As for my uncle, he don't make any secret of his opinions. But then he is out of fashion; and, as I don't find any body agree with him, I think he must be wrong. Next week, we think of setting out for the Springs. 62 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. My uncle has forsworn the steam-boats, ever since our voyage from Charleston. So we are to go by land up the right bank of the Hudson, and return on the other side, unless we should visit Boston, as my uncle sometimes threatens. Good bye, my dear Maria; I long to see you:- don't you long to see me, in my incomprehensible, indescribable hat, and my baked curls? I must not omit my travelling-chain, which is a gold cable of awful dimensions, without which no lady of any pretensions can visit the Springs. Alas! poor woman! born to be the slave of a hundred taskmasters;- first, of the boarding-school, where she is put to the torture of the dancing-master and the school-mistress; next, of fashion, when she is obliged to appear a fool, rather than be singular; and last and worst, of her husband, the very Nero of tyrants. Pray, sometimes stop in, and see how my old nurse, Hannah, gets on. Adieu. P. S. I wish you could only hear that goodnatured, pragmatical old soul, my kind, generous uncle, rail at almost every thing he hears and sees. He calls himself an old fool fifty times a day, and says that old people are like' old trunks, which will do very well while they are let alone in a corner, but never fail to tumble to pieces if you move them. He pronounced the steam-boat a composition of horrors, such as modern ingenuity, stimulated by paper-money, stock-companies, and I know not what, could alone produce; and congratulates himself continually upon living in a remote part of the country, where there are neither banks nor incorporations, and where, as he says, indulgent nature, by means of high mountains and other benevolent precautions, has made it actually THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 63 impossible to intrude either a canal or a railroad. Every time I come to him for money, which indeed is pretty often, for I have found out a hundred new wants since I came here, he affects to scold me, and declares that unless the price of cotton and rice rises, he shall be a pauper before the end of our journey. But what annoys him most of all, and indeed appears strange to me, is to see white men performing the offices of negroes in the south —waiting at table, cleaning boots, brushing clothes, driving carriages, and standing up behind them. He says this is degrading the race of white men in the scale of nature, and has had several hot discussions with an old Quaker, with whom he somewhere scraped acquaintance. Our black man Juba, or gentleman of colour, (for that is the style here), is grown so vain at being sometimes waited on by white men, that he is good for nothing but to parade up and down Broadway. Henney says he is keeping a journal, and talks of making up to the old Quaker's daughter; I suppose on the strength of the good gentleman's arguments about equality. To conclude, my good uncle calls me a baggage and Stephen a puppy, twenty times a day. L. C. LUCIA CULPEPER TO MARIA MEYNELL. NEW YORK, MY DEAR MARIA, - How I wish you were here to help me enjoy all the fine things I see from morning till night. You know I have no friends in this place, and among all our party I can find no confidante but Henney, who wonders ten times more than I do. My 64 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. uncle, though a most indulgent old soul, you know has a habit of finding fault with every thing, and of always exalting the past at the expense of the present, which to young people, to whom the present time is every thing, is quite odd. Graves is as grave as his name, and is all the time taken up with state-prisons, alms-houses, houses of refuge, and all sorts of institutions for making people wiser and better; or, as my uncle will have it, idle and profligate. As for Stephen, he won't let me admire any thing in peace. The moment I begin, he discharges upon me a comparison with something in Paris, Rome or London, which goes near to accuse me of a total want of taste. If you believe him, there is nothing worth seeing here but what comes from abroad. I am sure he'll never like me well enough to fulfil my uncle's wishes, and that is my great comfort. For alas! Maria, I fear he has no heart; and, judging from what comes out of it, but little head. I don't want a man to be always crying or talking sentiment, or forever acting the sage; but a heartless fool is the bane of womankind. You know Stephen's father saved my uncle's life at the battle of the Eutaw Springs, and that my uncle has long made up his mind to make him my lord and master, and leave us his whole fortune, with the exception of a legacy to poor Graves. The older I grow, the more I dislike this plan. But I would not thwart my dear, kind, generous uncle - father - if any thing less than my future happiness is at stake. He calls Stephen, puppy, jackanapes, and dandy, ten times a day. But I can see his heart is still set upon the match. So true is it, that it is almost impossible for old people to give up a long-cherished and favourite plan. But THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 65 I have made up my mind in the solitude of the mountains to meet what may come - come what will. My head is now full of finery, and all my senses in a whirl. I wish you could see me. My hat is so large that there is no bandbox on the face of the earth big enough to accommodate it; and yet you will be surprised to hear that it is fit neither for summer nor winter, rain nor sunshine. It will not keep off either one or the other, and so plagues me when I go into the street, that I hardly know which way to turn myself. Every puff of wind nearly oversets me. There are forty-two yards of trimmings, and sixty feathers to it. My dress is a full match for my hat. It took twenty-three yards of silk, five yards of satin, besides, "bobbin, ben-bobbin," and ben-bobbinet, I don't know what else to call it -beyond all counting. You must think I have grown very much. I am so beflounced, that my uncle laughs at me whenever I come where he is, and declares, that a fine lady costs more to fit her out nowadays than a ship of the line. What between hat and flounces, &c., a lady has a time of it when the wind blows and the dust is flying in clouds, as it does in Broadway all day long. I encountered a puff at the corner of one of the streets, and there I stood, holding my hat with one hand, and my cardinal-cloak (which has fifty-six yards of various commodities in it) with the other. I thought I should have gone up like a balloon; and stood stark still until I came near being run over by a great hog, which was scampering away from some mischievous boys. At last a sailor took compassion on me, and set me down at the door of a store. As he went away, I heard him say to his companion: "My eyes, 5 66 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Bill, what a press of canvass the girls carry nowadays!" O, it's delightful to travel, Maria! We had such a delightful sail in the steam-boat, though we were all sick; and such a delightful party, if they only had been well. Only think of sailing without sails, and not caring which way the wind blows; and going eight miles an hour, happen what would. It was quite charming; but, for all this, I was glad when it was over, and we came into still water. Coming into the Narrows, as they are called, was like entering a paradise. On one side is Long Island, with its low shores, studded with pretty houses, and with foliage of various kinds mixed up with the dark cedars; on the other, Staten Island, with its high bluff, crowned by the telegraph and signal poles; and beyond, the great fort that put me in mind of the old castles which Stephen talks about. We kept close to the Long Island shore, along which we glided, before wind and tide, with the swiftness of wings. Every moment some new beauty opened to our view. The little islands of the bay, crowned with castles; the river, bounded by the lofty ledge of perpendicular rocks called The Palisades; and, then, the queen of the West, the beautiful city, with its Battery and hundred spires; coming one after the other, and at last combined in one beautiful whole- threw me almost into raptures, and entirely cured my sea-sickness. Add to this, the ships, vessels, and boats, of all sizes, from the seventy-four to the little thing darting about like a feather, with a single person in it; and the grand opening of the East River, with Brooklyn and the charming scenery beyond,- and you can form THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 67 some little idea of my surprise and delight. Signior Maccaroni, as my uncle calls him, looked at it with perfect nonchalance. The bay was nothing to the bay of Naples; and the castle, less than nothing, compared with Castel Nuovo. Thank heaven, I had not been abroad to spoil my relish. Even my uncle enjoyed it, and spoke more kindly to me than during the whole passage. He was very sick, and called himself an old fool fifty times a day. I believe half the time he meant " young fool," that is me, for persuading him to the voyage. Graves' eyes sparkled, but as usual he said nothing. He only gave me a look, which said as plainly as a thousand words, "how beautiful!" But whether he meant me or Dame Nature is more than I can tell. The moment we touched the wharf, there was an irruption of the Goths and Vandals, as my uncle called the hackney-coachmen, and the porters, who risked their necks in jumping aboard. " Carriage, sir," " Baggage, sir,"'" City Hotel, sir," " Mansion House," " Mrs. Mann's," — were reiterated a thousand times; and I thought half a dozen of them would have fought for our trunks, they disputed and swore so terribly. Stephen declared it was worse than London; and Graves said it put him in mind of the contest between the Greeks and Trojans for the body of poor Patroclus. My uncle called them hard names, and flourished his stick, but it would not do. When we got to the hotel, I thought we had mistaken some palace for a public-house. Such mirrors - such curtains - such carpets - such sofas such chairs! I was almost afraid to sit down upon them. Even Stephen evinced his approbation, and repeated over 68 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. and over again: " Upon my soul, clever - quite clever -very clever indeed, upon my soul." My uncle says, all this finery comes out of the cotton-plantations and rice-swamps; and that the negroes of the south work like horses, that their masters may spend their money like asses in the north. Poor fenney does nothing but stand stock-still with her mouth and eyes wide open, and is of no more use to me than a statue. She is in every body's way — and in her own way too, I believe. I took her with me the other day to a milliner's, to bring home some of my finery. She stopped at every window, with such evident tokens of delight, that she attracted the attention of the boys, and came very near being mobbed. Missing her, I was obliged to turn back, and found her in ecstasies with a picture of Madame Hutin dancing before a droll figure in a fur cap and spectacles. Juba is keeping a journal, I believe, for you know that my uncle, while he abuses the practice with his tongue, assents to it in his heart, and humours his slaves more, perhaps, than a professed philanthropist in his situation would do. I should like to see Juba's lucubrations. I begin to be weary- so, good night, my dear Maria. I will write again soon. Your LuCIA. P. S. What do you think, Maria? - whisper it not to the telltale echoes of the high hills of Santee - they say bishops and pads are coming into fashion. I have seen several ladies that looked very suspicious. Besides eating, and the various other resources of sense for passing the time in New York, there are sundry intellectual delights of most rare diversity — THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 69 exhibitions of fat oxen, to charm the liberal-minded amateur - Lord Byron's helmet - and Grecian dogs, whose wonderful capacity fully attests to the astonished world that the march of mind has extended even to the brute creation, insomuch that the difference between instinct and reason is now scarcely perceptible to the nicest observer, and it is the opinion of many of our learned men, that a dog of the nineteenth century is considerably wiser than a man of the sixteenth. There are also highly amusing methods of drawing teeth, and teaching grammar and tachygraphy, as well as all sorts of sciences and languages, by systems and machinery, which are pretended to be original, but which may be found in the famous Captain Lemuel Gulliver's voyage to Laputa. There are moreover an infinite number of highly diverting inventions for improving the condition of lazy loons, and teaching them economy and industry, by enabling them to live without either at the expense of other men. There are taverns, where amateurs may drink and smoke all the morning, without offence to man or beast. There is a famous musician, who can imitate the barking of dogs on his instrument, so as to deceive a dog himself, and whose " lady " screams exactly like a cat; so that they make the divinest harmony that ever was heard. There are the ladies' bonnets and curls, which are worth travelling a hundred miles to see; and their - what shall we call them? - bishops or pads, which are worth a voyage to the moon, to behold in all their majestic rotundity. There is also —no, there will be, as we are enabled to state positively on the best authority - there will be an exhibition, which is better worth the attention of people of real refined taste, than 70 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. all those just enumerated put together. The gentleman has politely favoured us with a programme of his evening's exhibition, with permission to publish it, and to announce to the world of fashion, that he will be here on or about the first of June. "You shall either laugh or cry." THEATRICAL, DESCRIPTIVE, PHILOSOPHICAL, &c. Mr. Hart, the preacher of natural religion, the playactor, the tin-pedler, the attorney and counsellor-atlaw, a lover of music, and an admirer of the fair sex, respectfully informs the ladies and gentlemen of New York, that on or about the first day of June next, at evening candle-light, he will go through an act of his own composition, at some place of fashionable resort, to consist of the following parts, viz.: First. Music and dancing, and whirling round part of the time on one leg, and part of the time on two legs, like a top, fifty times, without showing the least giddiness. Second. An address to Hope, in blank verse. Third. The difference pointed out between happiness above and happiness below. Fourth. Music. Fifth. Orlando, an imaginary character, to his sweetheart. Sixth. Music, dancing, and whirling round fifty times. Seventh. An address to the departed spirit of George Washington. Eighth. Music. Ninth. The lover, solus. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 71 Tenth. Music, dancing, and whirling round fifty times. Eleventh. Orlando in despair marries one he does not love, runs mad, and whirls round fifty times to music. Twelfth. Description of his contriving to get a divorce by means unprecedented in modern times. Thirteenth. Music, dancing, and whirling round fifty times. To conclude with Mr. Hart's acting the natural fool, talking to tie departed spirits of General Washington and Thomas Paine, and making crooked mouths and wry faces at the audience. We are much mistaken in the taste of the town, if this exhibition of Mr. Hart will not prove one of the most attractive ever presented to the patronage of the fashionable world, and go near to ruin all the theatres. The bill presents a variety of attraction perfectly irresistible to all refined palates. First, there is music, and dancing, and playing the teetotum, for the lovers of the Italian opera and gymnastics; then, an address to Hope, for the lovers of poetry; then, a philosophical disquisition, for the lovers of philosophy; then, music, to put us in a proper frame to listen to Orlando's love-letter; then, dancing and whirling, for the amateurs of the grand ballet; then, an address to a shade, for the devourers of witch and ghost stories; then, a lover talking to himself, for inamoratos; then, running mad, for the amusement of despairing young gentlemen; then, the contrivance for getting a divorce, which we prophesy will be received with great applause. But the cream of all will 72 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. be the playing of the fool and making wry faces at the audience, which cannot do otherwise than please our theatrical amateurs, unless they should happen to have been surfeited with it already. In short, we think Mr. Hart's bill of fare fairly distances all play-bills, not excepting Peter Wilkins, and that Mr. Hart himself must possess a greater versatility of talent than the gentlemen and ladies who play six characters at a time, or even than the prince of buffoons and imitators, Mr. Mathews himself. We have no doubt the whole town will flock to see him, and that we shall observe, soon after his arrival, a great improvement in the taste of the people, as well as in our theatrical exhibitions, which may borrow a few hints from him with great advantage. There are various branches of domestic industry cultivated by the young ladies of New York, the principal of which is the spinning of street-yarn, which they generally practise about four hours a day. Hence they are technically termed spinsters. But the great branch of domestic industry among the men is the trade in politics, in which vast numbers are engaged, some at stated seasons, others all the year round. Of the arts and mysteries of this business we profess to know nothing; but we believe, from the best information, that the whole secret consists in a certain opportune turning of the coat, which ought always to have two sides, one the exact contrast to the other in colour and texture. By the aid of this sort of harlequin jacket, a dexterous trader in politics can, if he possesses the ordinary instinct of a rat, always keep a strong house over his head, a tight vessel under him, and be always in the right, that is to say, upon THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 73 the strongest side, which, according to fundamental principles, must be ever in the right. Some intolerant persons take upon themselves to denounce such manoeuvring of the outward garment as unprincipled and disgraceful; but for our parts we hold that, necessitas non habet legem and it is within the sphere of our knowledge, that no inconsiderable portion of this abused class of people, if they did not turn their coats pretty often, would very soon have no coats to turn. On the other occupations or mysteries, such as spending a great deal of money without having any, and running in debt without possessing any credit, our limits will not allow us to dilate so copiously as we could wish. Suffice it to say, that New York is in this respect by no means behindhand with its neighbours, inasmuch as it is not uncommon to see people riding in splendid carriages, living in splendid houses, and owning a whole street, who, when they come to settle with death and their other creditors, pay the former and that is all. For the benefit of all fashionable tourists, we would wish to enter upon a full development of this the most valuable secret of the whole art of living, which may possibly one day stand them in stead. But it would require volumes of illustrations, and a minuteness of detail irreconcilable with the plan of this work. And even then it is doubtful whether the tourist would be able to put the system in practice, since many are of opinion that nothing but a regular apprenticeship in the arts of stock-jobbing, stock-companies, hypothecation, and blowing bubbles and bursting them, as practised par excellence in the beau monde of New York, will qualify a person for 74 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. living upon nothing, unless indeed he have an uncommon natural genius. Among the many modes of raising the wind in New York, that of buying lottery-tickets is one of the most effective. It is amazing what a number of prizes every lottery-office-keeper has sold either in whole or in shares, and, what is yet more extraordinary as well as altogether out of fashion, paid them too, if you will take his word for it. The whole insides and a large portion of the outsides of many houses in Broadway are covered with statements of the vast sums thus liberally dispensed to the public; and, what is very remarkable, among all those who have made their fortunes in this pursuit, we never heard of a single person who was brought to ruin by it! People need have no scruples of conscience about trying their luck in this way, since, if it were really gambling, the legislature of New York state, which is a great enemy to horse-racing, (save in one consecrated spot),* and all other kinds of gambling, would certainly never have authorized a series of lotteries, of which some people may recollect the beginning, but nobody can predict the end. Nothing can exceed the philanthropic earnestness with which the dispensers of fortune's favours, in the lotteries, strive to allure the ignorant and obtuse, who are not awake to the certainty of making a fortune after this fashion, into a habit of depending on the blind goddess, instead of always stupidly relying upon the labour of their hands and the sweat of their brows. Nor ought the unwearied pains of these liberal-hearted persons, to coax them into parting with all they have, in the [* The Union Course, Long Island.] THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 75 moral certainty of getting back a hundred, yea a thousand, fold, pass without due commendation; for certain it is, that if any body in New York is poor, it must be owing to his own obstinate stupidity in refusing these disinterested invitations. N. B. There are very severe laws against gambling in New York. There are many other ways of living and getting money here, and spending it too, which it is not necessary to enumerate. We have premised sufficient to enable the enlightened tourist, (who, peradventure, may have been left destitute in a strange place by a run at cards, a failure of remittances, or any other untoward accident), to retrieve his fortune, if he possesses an ordinary degree of intrepidity and enterprise. A complete knowledge of the world is the first requisite for living in the world, and the first step to the attainment of this is to know the difference between catching and being caught, as aptly exemplified in the fable of the fox and the oyster. Once upon a time- it was long before the foxes had their speech taken from them lest they should get the better of man - as Reynard was fishing for oysters with his tail, he had the good-luck to put the end of it into the jaws of a fine Blue-Pointer that lay gaping with his mouth wide open, by reason of his having drank too much salt-water at dinner. " Ah ha!" cried the oyster, shutting his mouth as quickly as his corpulent belly would permit-" Ah ha!, have I caught you at last! " Reynard, tickled to death at this wise exclamation, forthwith set off full-tilt for his hole, the oyster holding on with all his might, though he got most bitterly bethumped against the rocks, and exclaiming all the while, " Ah ha! my honest 76 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. friend, don't think to escape me - I've got you safe enough- ah ha!" All which he uttered without opening his mouth, as was the manner of speaking in those days. Reynard, who had wellnigh killed himself with laughing, at length came safe to his lodging with the clumsy oyster still fast to his tail. After taking a little breath, he addressed it thus: " Why, thou aquatic snail —thou nondescript among animals, that art neither fish, flesh, nor fowl — hadst thou but one single particle of brains in all that fat carcass of thine, I would argue the matter with thee. As it is, I will soon teach thee the difference between catching and being caught." So saying, he broke the shell of the honest oyster with a stone, and swallowed the contents with great satisfaction. Having seen everything worth seeing, and eaten of everything worth eating, in New York, the traveller may begin to prepare for the ineffable delights of the Springs. After the month of April, oysters become unlawful; and canvas-backs are out of season. There is then nothing to detain the inquisitive tourist, and there are many things that render his speedy departure highly expedient. As Casar was cautioned by the seer, to beware the Ides of March, so do we, in like manner, seriously and vehemently caution the tourist to beware of the first of May, in other countries and places the season of May-poles, rural dances, and rustic loves; but, in New York, the period in which a great portion of the inhabitants seem to be enjoying a game at puss-in-a-corner. Woe be to the traveller who happens to sojourn in a house where this game is going on, for he will find no rest to the soles of his feet. His chair and his bed, his carpet and his joint THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 77 stool, will be taken from under him, and he will be left alone as it were like a hermit in the desert. People, as well as their establishments, seem to be actually deranged, insomuch that the prize-poet whom we have quoted before, not long since produced the following impromptu on the first of May: "Sing, heavenly muse! which is the greatest day, The first of April, or the first of May; Or, ye who moot nice points in learned schools, Tell us which breeds the greatest crop of fools! " For a more particular account of this festival, which especially distinguishes the city of New York from all others in the known world, we refer our readers to the following letter. There is, however, some reason to surmise that it prevailed in Herculaneum and Pompeii, and was one of the causes which brought the vengeance of the gods on those unfortunate cities. COLONEL CULPEPER TO MAJOR BRANDE. NEW YORK, May 2, 1827. MY DEAR MAJOR,-I am sorry to inform you that yesterday morning at daylight, or a little before, a large portion of the inhabitants of this city ran mad, in a most singular, I might say, original, manner; for I don't remember to have seen this particular form of insanity described in any work on the subject. This infirmity is peculiar to this precise season of the year, and generally manifests itself, a day or two previous to the crisis, in a perpetual fidgeting about the house, rummaging up of every thing, putting every thing out of place, and making a most ostentatious display of crockery and tin-ware. In proof of its not having any affinity to hydrophobia, it is sufficient to observe that 78 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. the disease invariably manifests itself in a vehement disposition to scrubbing floors, washing windows, and dabbling in water in all possible ways. The great and decisive phenomenon, and one which is always followed by an almost instantaneous remission of the disorder, is scrambling out of one house as fast as you can, and getting into another as soon as possible. But, as I consider this as one of the most curious cases that ever came under my observation, I will give you a particular account of every prominent symptom accompanying it, with a request you will communicate the whole to Dr. Brady, for his decision on the matter. It being a fine, bright, mild morning, I got up early, to take a walk on the Battery, the most glorious place for a morning or evening stroll to be found in the world. It is almost worth coming here, to inhale the exquisite coolness of the saline air, and watch the ever-moving scenery of little white sails, majestic displays of snowy canvas that look like fleecy clouds against the hills of Jersey and Staten Island, and all the life of nature, connected with her beautiful repose on the bosom of the expansive bay. Coming down into the entry, I found it cluttered up with a specimen of almost every thing that goes to the composition of house-keeping, and three or four stuldy fellows with hand-barrows, on which they were piling everything they could lay hold of. I asked what the matter was, but all I could get out of them was, " First of May, sir- please to stand out of the way - first of May, sir." So I passed on into the street, where I ran the gauntlet, among looking-glasses, old pictures, baskets of crockery, and things in general. The sidewalks THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 79 were infested with processions of this sort, and in the middle of the streets were innumerable carts loaded with a general jail-delivery of all the trumpery that the carelessness of servants had broken, or the economy of the housewives preserved. If I stopped to contemplate this inexplicable scene, some male monster was sure to bounce against me out of a streetdoor, with a feather-bed, or assault me in the breach with the corner of a looking-glass, or some projection still more belligerent; while all the apology I got was, "First of May - take care, sir- first of May." At one time I was beleaguered between two hand-barrows, coming different ways, and giving each other just enough room to squeeze me half to death: at another, I was run foul of by a basket of crockery or cut glass, with a woman under it, to the imminent risk of demolishing these precious articles so dear to the heart of the sex, and got not only sour looks but hard words, while my bones were aching with bumps and bruises. Finding there was no peace in Israel, I determined to get home without further delay, and ensconce myself snugly, until this fearful commotion of the household gods and their paraphernalia had died away. But I forgot that, " returning were as tedious as go o'er." There was not an old chair, or a looking-glass, or a picture, or any article cursed with sharp angles, that did not appear to have an irresistible attraction towards some part of my body, especially that portion which oftenest comes in contact with other bodies. In attempting to steer clear of a hand-barrow, I encountered a looking-glass, which the lady owner was following with pious care, and shattered it into a thousand pieces. The lady fainted, and, in my zeal to 80 TIE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. apologize to and assist her, I unfortunately grazed a glass lustre, which caught in my button-hole, and drew after it a little French woman, who luckily lighted on a feather-bed which an Irishman had set down, to rest himself. " Mon Dieu!" cried the little woman; "Jasus!" exclaimed the Irishman; the lady of the looking-glass wept; the little demoiselle laughed; the Irishman stole a kiss of her; and the valiant Colonel Culpeper made a masterly retreat into the entry of his domicile, where by the same token he ran full against my landlady, (who, in a paroxysm of the disorder, was sallying forth with both hands full), and demolished her spectacles irretrievably. Finding myself thus environed with perils on all sides, I retreated to my bedchamber, but here I found the madness raging with equal violence. A servingmaid was pulling up the carpet, and pulling down the curtains, and making the dust fly in all directions, with a feverish activity that could only have been produced by a degree of excitement altogether unnatural. There was no living here, so I retreated to the diningroom, where every thing was out of its place, and the dust thicker than in the bedroom. Mops were going in one corner, brooms flourishing in another, sideboards standing in the middle of the room, and diningtables flapping their wings, as if partaking in that irresistible propensity to motion which seemed to pervade everything animate and inanimate. " Pray, sir," said I to a grave old gentleman who sat reading a newspaper, apparently unmoyed amid the general confusion,- " Pray, sir, can you tell me what all this confusion means?" " 0, it's only the first of May," he replied, without taking his eyes off THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 81 the newspaper. Alas! he, too, is mad, thought I. But I'll try him again. " The first of May - what of the first of May?" "'Tis moving-time." "Moving-time! what is that?" "The time when every body moves." "But, why does every body move just at this time?" "I can't tell, except it be because it is the first of May. But," added he, looking up at last with a droll smile, " you seem to be a stranger, and perhaps don't know that the first of May is the day, the bane of the year, on which the good people of this town have, one and all, agreed to play at the game of move-all. They are now at it, hammer and tongs. To-morrow, things will be quiet, and we shall be settled in a different part of the street." " 0, then the people are not mad," said I. "By no means: they are only complying with an old custom." "'Tis an odd custom." "It is so, but not more odd than many others in all parts of the world." " Will you be so obliging as to tell me its origin, and the reason for it? " " Why, as to the reason, half the old customs we blindly follow are just as difficult to account for, and apparently as little founded in design as this. It would be too much to make people give reasons for every thing they do. This custom of moving in a body on May-day is said, however, to have originated at a very early period in the history of New York, when there were but two houses in it. The tenants of these, taking it into their heads to change their 6 82 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. domiciles, and having no others to remove to, agreed to start fair at one and the same time with bag and baggage, and thus step into each other's shoes. They did so, and the arrangement was found so convenient that it has passed into general practice ever since." " And so the good people take it for granted, that a custom which necessity forced upon them when there were but two houses in the city is calculated for a city with thirty thousand. A capital pedigree for an old custom." "'Tis as good as one half the usages of the world can boast of," replied the philosopher, and resumed his studies. "But," said I, "how can you possibly read in all this hubbub?" "," replied he, " I've moved every May-day for the last forty years." Having ascertained the location of the house into which the family was moving, I made for it with all convenient speed, hoping to find at least an asylum for my wearied and bruised body. But I fell out of the frying-pan into the fire. The spirit of moving was here more rampant than at my other home, and, between moving in and moving out, there was no chance of escaping a jostle or a jog from some moving movable, on its arrival or departure. Despairing of a resting-place here, I determined to drop in upon an old friend; and proceeded to his house. But he, too, was moving. From thence I went to a hotel, in hopes of a quiet hour in the reading-room; but the hotel was moving too. I jumped into a hack, bidding the man drive out of town as fast as possible. "I'm moving a family, sir, and can't serve you," cried he; and just then somebody thrust the corner of a looking-glass into my side, and almost broke one of my THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 83 ribs. At this critical moment, seeing the door of a church invitingly open, I sought refuge in its peaceful aisles. But alas! major, every thing was in confusion here; the floors in a puddle, the pews wet, the prayerbooks piled in heaps, and women splashing the windows furiously with dippers of water. "Zounds!" said I to one of them, "are you moving too? ", and, without waiting for an answer, walked into the churchyard, in hopes I should find the tenants quiet there. Here I -sauntered about, reading the records of mortality, and moralizing on the contrast between the ever-moving scene without and the undisturbed repose within. There was but a wooden fence to mark the separation between the region of life and that of death. In a few minutes my perturbation subsided, and the little rubs and vexations I had undergone during the day faded into insignificance before the solemn meditations on that everlasting remove to which we all are destined. I went home, dined at my old house, slept in my new lodgings, on a wet floor, and caught a rheumatism in my left shoulder. Adieu, major. If you ever visit New York, beware of the first of May. From this letter, which we assure our readers is of the first authority, it will sufficiently appear that the elegant tourist should so arrange his pleasures, (for business he ought to have none), as either to arrive at New York after, or quit it before, the first day of May. Previous to his departure, it will be proper for the traveller, if a gentleman, to furnish himself with the following indispensable conveniences:The New Mirror for Travellers, and Guide to the 84 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Springs. N. B. Be careful to ask for the NEW MIRROR. Two shirts. N. B. Dickies, or collars, with ruffles, will answer. Plenty of cravats, which are the best apologies for shirts in the world, except ruffles. Six coats, including a surtout and box-coat. N. B. If you can't afford to pay for these, the tailor must suffer —there is no help for him. Forty pairs of pantaloons, of all sorts. Ditto, waistcoats. Twelve pairs of white kid-gloves. Twelve pairs of boots. N. B. If you wear boots altogether, stockings are unnecessary, except at balls — economy is a blessed thing. Twelve tooth-brushes. Twelve hair-brushes. Six clothes-brushes -one for each coat. A percussion-gun and a pointer-dog. N. B. No matter whether you are a sportsman or not - it looks well. A pair of pistols, to shoot a friend with now and then. An umbrella, which you can borrow of a friend and forget to return. A portmanteau without any name or initials, so that if you should happen to take another man's, it may pass for a mistake. N. B. Never make such mistakes, unless there is some special reason for it. A pocket-book, well filled with bank-notes. If you can't raise the wind with the genuine, you may buy a few counterfeits, cheap. Any money is good enough for travelling, and if one won't take it another THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 85 will. Don't be discouraged at one refusal —try it again. If you are well-dressed, and have a gun and a pointer-dog, no one will suspect you. N. B. There are no police-officers in the steam-boats. There is one class of travellers deserving a whole book by themselves, could we afford to write one for their especial benefit. We mean the gentlemen who, as the African negro said, " walk big way - write big book;" tourists by profession, who explore this country for the pleasure of their readers and their own profit, and travel at the expense of one people's reputation and of another's pockets; who pay for a dinner by libelling their entertainer, and for their passage in a steam-boat by retailing the information of the steward or coxswain; to whom the sight of a porpoise at sea affords matter for profitable speculation; who make more out of a flying-fish than a market-woman does out of a sheep's-head; and dispose of a tolerable storm at the price of a week's board. These are the travellers for our money, being the only ones on record, except the pedlers, who unite the profits of business with the pleasures of travelling —a consummation which authors have laboured at in vain until the present happy age of improvements, when sentimental young ladies wear spatterdashes and stout young gentlemen white kid-gloves, and when an operasinger receives a higher salary than an archbishop and travels about with letters of introduction from kings! Of all countries in the world, Old England, our kind, gentle, considerate old mamma, sends forth the largest portion of this species of literary "riders," 86 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. who sweep up the materials for a book by the roadside. They are held of so much consequence as to be patronized by the government, which expends large sums in sending them to the North Pole, only to tell us, in a " big book,"'how cold it is there; or to Africa, to distribute glass beads, and repeat over and over the same things, through a score of huge quartos. With these we do not concern ourselves; but, inasmuch as it hath been alleged, however unjustly, that those who have from time to time honoured this country with their notice have been guilty of divers sins of ignorance, prejudice, and malignity, we here offer them a compendium of regulations, by the due observance of which they may in future avoid these offences, and construct a "big book" which shall give universal satisfaction. Rules -for gentlemen who ".'walk big way - make big book." Never fail to seize every opportunity to lament,.with tears in your eyes, the deplorable state of religion among "these republicans.. People will take it for granted you are avery pious man. Never lose an opportunity of canting about the sad state of morals among these republicans. People will give you credit for being very moral yourself. Whenever you have occasion to mention the fourth of July, the birthday of Washington, or any other great national anniversary, don't forget to adduce it as proof of the bitter hostility felt by these republicans towards the English,'and to lament these practices, as tending to keep up the memory of the Revolution, as well as to foster national antipathies. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 87 Be very particular in noticing stage-drivers, waiters, tavern-keepers, and persons of the like importance, who, as it were, represent the character of the people. Whenever you want any profound information, always apply to them: — they are the best authority you can have. If you happen to fall in company with a public man in the stage or steam-boat, take the first opportunity of pumping the driver or waiter. These fellows know every thing, and can tell you all the lies that have ever been uttered against him. If you dine with a hospitable gentleman, don't fail to repay him by dishing up himself, his wife, daughters, and dinner, in your book. If the little boys don't behave respectfully towards you, and sneak into a corner with their fingers in their mouths, cut them up handsomely- father, mother, and all. Be sure you give their names, at full length; be particular in noting every dish on the table; and don't forget pumping the waiter. Tell all the old stories which the Yankees repeat of their Southern and Western neighbours, and which the latter have retorted upon them. Be sure not to forget the gouging of the judge, the roasting of the negro, the wooden nutmegs, the indigo coal; and, above all, the excellent story of the wooden bowls. Never inquire whether they are true or not; they will make John Bull twice as happy as he is at present. Never write a line without having the fear of the reviewers before your eyes, and remember how poor Miss Wright got abused for praising these republicans and sinners. Never be deterred from telling a story to the dis 88 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. credit of any people, especially republicans, on the score of its improbability. John Bull, for whom you write, will swallow any thing, from a pot of beer to a melo-drama. He is even a believer in his own freedom. Never be deterred from telling a story on account of its having been told, over and over again, by every traveller since the discovery of America by the literati of Europe. If the reader has seen it before, it is only meeting an old friend; if he has not, it is making a new acquaintance. But be sure you don't forget to say that you saw every thing you describe. To quote from another is to give him all the credit, and is almost as bad as robbing your own house. There is nothing makes a lie look so much like truth as frequent repetition. If you know it to be false, don't let that deter you; for, as you did not invent it yourself, you cannot be blamed. Abuse all the women in mass, out of compliment to your own countrywomen. The days of chivalry are past, and more honour comes of attacking than defending ladies in the present age of public improvements. Besides, all the world loves scandal, and a book filled with the praises of one nation is an insult to the rest of the world. If the stage breaks down with you, give the roads no quarter. If you get an indifferent breakfast at an inn, cut up the whole town where the enormity was encountered, pretty handsomely; if a bad dinner, deprive the whole nation of its morals; if a sorry supper, take away the reputation of the landlady, the cook, and the landlady's daughters without ceremony. Item, if they put THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 89 you to sleep in a two-bedded room, although the other bed be empty, it is sufficient provocation to set them all down for infidels, thereby proving yourself a zealous Christian. Never read any book written by natives of the country you mean to describe. They are always partial; and, besides, a knowledge of the truth fetters the imagination, and circumscribes invention. It is fatal to the composition of a romance. Never suffer the hospitalities and kindness of these republicans to conciliate you, except just while you are enjoying them. You may eat their dinners and receive their attentions; but never forget, that if you praise the Yankees John Bull will condemn your book, and that charity begins at home. The first duty of a literary traveller is to make a book that will sell; the rest is between him and his conscience, and is nobody's business. Never mind what these republicans say of you or your book. You never mean to come among them again; or, if you do, you can come under a different name. Let them abuse you as much as they please. " Who reads an American book?" No Englishman certainly, except with a view of borrowing its contents without giving the author credit for them. Besides, every true-born Englishman knows that the shortest way of elevating his own country is to depress all others as much as possible. Never fail to find fault with everything, and grumble without ceasing. Else people won't know you for an Englishman. Never mind your geography, as you are addressing yourself to people who don't know a wild turkey 90 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. from Turkey in Europe. Your book will sell just as well, if you place New York on the Mississippi, and New Orleans on the Hudson. You will be kept in countenance by a certain British secretary of foreign affairs, who is said to have pronounced the right to navigate the St. Lawrence inadmissible to the United States, because it would give them a direct route to the Pacific. You need not make any special inquiries into the state of morals,.because every body knows that republicans have no morality; nor of religion, because every body knows they tolerate all religions, and of course can have none; nor of manners, because, as there is no distinction of ranks recognized in their constitution, it is clear they must all be blackguards. The person most completely qualified of any.we ever met with for a traveller was a worthy Englishman, who, being very near-sighted, and hard of hearing, was not led astray by the villany of his five senses; and, curiously enough, his book contained quite as much truth as those of his more fortunate contemporaries who were embarrassed by eyes and ears. If the tourist belongs to the order of the petticoat, the following articles are of the first necessity in a visit to the Springs. Six fashionable hats, in bandboxes. N. B. The steam-boats are pretty capacious, and from Albany to the Springs you can hire an extra. Two lace veils to hide blushes. If you never blush, there is no harm done. An indispensable for miscellaneous matters. Beware of pockets and pick-pockets. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS., 91 Two trunks of bardges, gros de Naples, and silks. Two trunks of miscellaneous finery. A dressing-case. One large trunk containing several sets of curls well-baked, prepared by Monsieur Manuel. The last Waverley. Plenty of airs. Ditto of graces. Six beaux to amuse you on the journey. N. B. A poodle will do as well. A dozen pairs of white satin shoes to ramble about in through the swamps at Saratoga and Ballston. Leather smells vilely, and prunello is quite vulgar. Six dozen pairs of silk hose, the thinnest that can be had. There is nothing so beautiful as flesh-colour with open clocks. A travelling-chain, the largest and heaviest that can be had, to wear round the neck. This will furnish the beaux with a hint for saying clever things about chains, darts, &c. The poodle can sometimes play with it. There is no occasion for a pocket-book, as all is paid by papa (or his creditors), and young ladies ought never to know any thing about the value of money. It sophisticates the purity of their unadulterated sentiments. These principal requisites being procured, you take the steam-boat for Albany. If you are in a great hurry, or not afraid of being drowned in going ashore at West Point, or blown up by the way, take one of the fastest boats you can find. But, if you wish to travel pleasantly, eat your meals in comfort, associate 92 THE NEW MIRROR- FOR TRAVELLERS. with genteel company, sleep in quiet, and wake up alive, our advice is to take one of the SAFETY BARGES, where all these advantages are combined. It grieves us to the soul to see these sumptuous aquatic palaces, which constitute the very perfection of all earthly locomotion, almost deserted by the ill-advised traveller - and for what? That he may get to Albany a few hours sooner: as if it were not the distinguishing characteristic of a well-bred man of pleasure to have more time on his hands than he knows what to do with. Let merchants, and tradesmen, and brokers, and handicraft people, and all those condemned to daily labour, to whom time is as money, patronize the swift boats; and let those who are running away from justice affect them; but, for the man of leisure, whose sole business is to kill time pleasantly, enjoy himself at his ease, and dine free from the infamous proximity of hungry rogues who devour with their eyes what they can't reach with their hands, the safety barges are preferable even to the chariot of the sun. N. B. We dont mean to discourage people who may cherish a harmless propensity to being blown up. Every one to his taste. The following hints will be found serviceable to all travellers in steam-boats. In the miscellaneous company usually found in these machines, the first duty of a man is to take care of himself —to get the best seat at table, the best location on deck; and, when these are obtained, to keep resolute possession in spite of all the significant looks of the ladies. If your heart yearns for a particularly comfortable THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 93 seat which is occupied by a lady, all you have to do is to keep your eye steadily upon it, and, the moment she gets up, don't wait to see if she is going to return, but take possession without a moment's delay. If she comes back again, be sure not to see her. Keep a sharp lookout for meals. An experienced traveller can always tell when these are about being served up, by a mysterious movement on the part of the ladies, and a mysterious agitation among the gentlemen, who may be seen gradually pressing towards the cabin doors. Whenever you observe these symptoms, it is time to exert yourself by pushing through the crowd to the place of execution. Never mind the sour looks, but elbow your way with resolution and perseverance, remembering that a man can eat but so many meals in his life, and that the loss of one can never be retrieved. The most prudent plan, however, is that generally pursued by your knowing English travellers, which is as follows: As soon as you have seen your baggage disposed of, and before the waiters have had time to shut the cabin-doors, preparatory to laying the tables, station yourself at one of them, in a proper situation for action. On the inside if you can, for there you are not in the way of the servants. Resolutely maintain your position in spite of the looks and hints of the servants, about " Gentlemen in the way," and " No chance to set the tables." You can be reading a book or a newspaper, and not hear them; or, a better way is to pretend to be asleep. Keep a wary eye for a favourite dish, and, if it happens to be placed at a distance or on another table, you can take an opportunity to look hard at an open 94 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. window as if there was too much air for you, shrug your shoulders, and move opposite the dish aforesaid. The moment the bell rings, fall to: you need not wait for the rest of the company to be seated, or mind the ladies, for there is no time to be lost on these occasions. For the same reason, you should keep your eyes moving about, from one end of the table to the other, in order that if you see any thing you like you can send for it without losing time. Call as loudly and as often as possible for the waiter; the louder you call, the more consequence you will gain with the company. If he don't mind you, don't hesitate to snatch whatever he has got in his hands, if you happen to want it. Be sure to have as many different things on your plate at one time as it will hold, and to use your own knife in cutting up all the dishes within your reach, and particularly in helping yourself to butter, though there may be knives on purpose. N. B. It is of no consequence whether your knife is fishy or not. Don't wait for the dessert to be laid, but the moment a pudding or a pie is placed within your reach, fall to and spare not. Get as much pudding and pie, and as many nuts, apples, raisins, &c., on your plate as you can, and eat all together. Pay no attention to the ladies, who have, or ought to have, friends to take care of them, or they have no business to be travelling in steam-boats. The moment you have eaten everything within your reach, and are satisfied nothing more is forthcoming, get up and make for the cabin door with a segar in your hand. No matter if you are sitting at the mid THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 95 die of the inner side of the table, and disturb a dozen persons, or more. They have no business to be in your way. If it is supper-time and the candles are lighted, you had best light your segar at one of them, and puff a little before you proceed, for fear it should go out. N. B. If you were to take an opportunity to find fault with the meals, the attendants, and the boat, in an audible tone, as Englishmen do, it will serve to give people an idea you have been used to better at home. Never think of pulling off your hat on coming into the cabin, though it happens to be full of ladies. It looks anti-republican; and, besides, has the appearance of not having been used to better company. Never miss an opportunity of standing in the doorway, or on the stairs, or in narrow passages; and never get out of the way to let anybody pass, particularly a lady. If there happens to be a scarcity of seats, be sure to stretch yourself at full length upon a sofa or a cushion, and, if any lady looks at you as if she thought you might give her a place, give her another look as much as to say, " I'll see you hanged, first." If the weather is cold, get directly before the stove, turn your back, and open the skirts of your coat behind as wide as possible, that the fire may have fair play. If you happen to be better dressed than your neighbour, look at him with an air of superiority; and don't hear him if he has the impudence to speak to you. If it is your ill-fortune to. be dressed not so well, employ a tailor as soon as possible to remedy the inferiority. Be sure to pay your passage, if you have any money. 96 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. If you have none, go to sleep in some out-of-the-way corner, and don't wake till the moon rises in the West. Don't pay any attention to the notification that, "no smoking is allowed abaft the wheel;" but strut about among the ladies, on the quarter-deck and the upper gallery, with a segar in your mouth on all occasions. There are so many ignorant people that smoke on board steam-boats, that it will naturally be supposed you can't read, and of course don't know of the prohibition. If you can get to the windward of a lady or two, so much the better. Whenever you are on deck by day, be sure to have this book in your hand, and, instead of boring yourself with the scenery, read the descriptions, which will be found infinitely superior to any of the clumsy productions of nature. N. B. These rules apply exclusively to gentlemen, the ladies being allowed the liberty of doing as they please, in all respects except six. They are not permitted to eat beefsteaks and mutton-chops at breakfast, unless they can prove themselves past fifty. They must not sit at table more than an hour, unless they wish to be counted hungry, which no lady ought ever to be. They must not talk so loud as to drown the noise of the engine, unless their voices are particularly sweet. They must not enact the turtle-dove before all the company, unless they can't help it. They must not jump overboard at every little noise of the machinery. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 97 They must not be always laughing, except they have very white teeth. With these exceptions, they may say and do just what they like, in spite of papa and mamma, for this is a free country. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. "This magnificent river,* which, taking it in all its combinations of magnitude and beauty, is scarcely equalled in the New, and not even approached in the Old, World, was discovered by Hendrik Hudson in the month of September, 1609, by accident, as almost every other discovery has been made. He was searching for a north-west passage to India when he first entered the bay of New York, and imagined the possibility that he had here found it, until, on exploring the river upwards, he came to fresh water, ran aground, and abandoned his hopes." Of this man, whose name is thus identified with the discovery, the growth, and the future prospects of a mighty state, little is known; and of that little the end is indescribably melancholy. He made four voyages in search of this imaginary north-west passage, and the termination of the last (in 1610) is in the highest degree affecting, as related in the following extracts from the published collections of the New York Historical Society. The "Master" is Hudson. "You shall vnderstand," says Master Abacuk Pricket, from whose account this is taken, " that our Master kept (in his house at London) a young man, named eenrie Greene, borne in Kent, of Worshipfull * We quote from the unpublished ana of Alderman Janson. 7 98 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Parents, but by his lend life and conuersation hee had lost the good will of all his friends, and had spent all that hee had. This man, our Master would haue to Sea with him, because hee could write well: our Master gaue him meate, and drinke, and lodging, and by meanes of one Master Venson, with much adoe got foure pounds of his mother to buy him clothes, wherewith Master Venson would not trust him: but saw it laid out himselfe. This Henrie Greene was not set downe in the owners' booke, nor any wages made for him. Hee came first aboard at Grauesend, and at Harwich should haue gone into the field, with one Wilkinson. At Island the Surgeon and hee fell out in Dutch, and hee beat him a shoare in English, which set all the company in a rage; so that wee had much adoe to get the Surgeon aboard. I told the Master of it, but hee bade mee let it alone, for (said hee) the Surgeon had a tongue that would wrong the best friend hee had. But Robert luet (the Master's Mate) would needs burne his finger in the embers, and told the Carpenter a long tale (when hee was drunke) that our Master had brought in Greene to cracke his credit that should displease him: which words came to the Master's eares, who when hee vnderstood it, would haue gone backe to Island, when he was fortie leagues from thence, to haue sent home his Mate Robert Iuet in a Fisher-man. But, being otherwise perswaded, all was well. So Henry Greene stood vpright, and very inward with the Master, and was a seruiceable man euery way for manhood: but for Religion, he would say he was cleane paper whereon he might write what he would. Now, when our Gunner was dead, and (as the order is in such cases) if the com THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 99 pany stand in need of any thing that belonged to the man deceased, then is it brought to the Mayne Mast, and there sold to them that will giue most for the same: This Gunner had a gray cloth gowne, which Greene prayed the Master to friend him so much as to let him haue it, paying for it as another would giue: the Master saith hee should, and thereupon hee answered some, that sought to haue it, that Greene should haue it, and none else, and so it rested.' Now, out of season and time, the Master calleth the Carpenter to goe in hand with an house on shoare, which at the beginning our Master would not heare, when it might haue been done. The Carpenter told him, that the Snow and Frost were such, as hee neither could, nor would goe in hand with such worke. Which when our Master heard, hee ferreted him out of his Cabbin, to strike him, calling him by many foule names, and threatening to hang him. The Carpenter told him that hee knew what belonged to his place better then himselfe, and that hee was no House Carpenter. So this passed, and the house was (after) made with much labour, but to no end. The next day after the Master and the Carpenter fell out, the Carpenter tooke his Peece and Henry Greene with him, for it was an order that none should goe out alone, but one with a Peece, and another with a Pike. This did moue the Master so much the more against Henry Greene, that Robert Billet his Mate must haue the gowne, and had it deliuered vnto him; which when Henry Greene saw, he challenged the Master's promise: but the Master did so raile on Greene, with so many words of disgrace, telling him, that all his friends would not trust him with twenty shillings, and 100 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. therefore why should he? As for wages he had none, nor none should haue, if he did not please him well. Yet the Master had promised him to make his wages as good as any man's in the ship; and to haue him one of the Prince's guard when we came home. But you shall see how the deuil out of this so wrought with Greene, that he did the Master what mischiefe hee could in seeking to discredit him, and to thrust him and many other honest men out of the Ship in the end." It appears that, (Greene having come to an understanding with others whom he had corrupted), a plot was laid, to seize Hudson and those of the crew that remained faithful to him, put them on board a small shallop which was used in making excursions for food or observations, and run away with the ship. Of the manner in which this was consummated the same writer gives the following relation: " Being thus in the Ice on Saturday, the one and twentieth of Iune at night, Wilson, the Boatswayne, and Henry Greene came to mee lying (in my Cabbin) lame, and told mee that they and the rest of their Associates would shift the Company, and turne the Master, and all the sicke men into the shallop, and let them shift for themselues. For, there was not fourteen daies' victual left for all the Company, at that poore allowance they were at, and that there they lay, the Master not caring to goe one way or other: and that they had not eaten any thing these three dayes, and therefore were resolute, either to mend or end, and what they had begun they would goe through with it, or dye." Pricket refuses, and expostulates with Wilson and Greene. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 101 " Henry Greene told me then, that I must take my fortune in the Shallop. If there bee no remedie, (said 1), the will of GOD bee done." Pricket tries to persuade them to put off their design for two days, nay, for twelve hours, that he might persuade Hudson to return home with the ship; but, to this they would not consent, and proceeded to execute their plot as follows: — "In the meane time Henrie Greene and another went to the Carpenter, and held him with a talke, till the Master came out of his Cabbin (which hee soone did): then came lohn Thomas and Bennet before him, while Wilson bound his armes behind him. He asked them what they meant? They told him, he should know when he was in the Shallop. Now luet, while this was a doing, came to lohn King into the Hold, who was prouided for him, for he had got a sword of his own, and kept him at a bay, and might haue killed him, but others came to helpe him: and so he came vp to the Master. The Master called to the Carpenter, and told him that he was bound; but, I heard no answere he made. Now Arnold Lodlo, and Michael Bute rayled at them, and told them their knauerie would shew itselfe. Then was the Shallop haled vp to the Ship side, and the poore, sicke, and lame men were called vpon to get them out of their Cabbins into the Shallop. The Master called to me, who came out of my Cabbin as well as I could, to the Hatchway to speake with him: where, on my knees I besought them, for the loue of God, to remember themselues, and to doe as they would be done vnto. They bad me keepe my selfe well, and get me into my Cabbin; not suffering the Master to speake with me. But when I 102 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. came into my Cabbin againe, hee called to me at the Home, which gaue light into my Cabbin, and told mee that iuet would ouerthrow vs all; nay (said I) it is that villaine Henrie Greene, and I spake it not softly."... " Now were all the poore men in the Shallop, whose names are as followeth; Henrie Hudson, Iohn Hudson, Arnold Lodlo, Sidrack Faner, Phillip Staffe, Thomas Woodhouse, or Wydhouse, Adam Moore, Henrie King, Michael Bute. The Carpenter got of them a Peece, and Powder, and Shot, and some Pikes, an Iron Pot, with some meale, and other things. They stood out of the Ice, the Shallop being fast to the Sterne of the Shippe, and so, (when they were nigh out, for I cannot say they were cleane out), they cut her head fast from the Sterne of our Ship, then out with their Topsayles, and towards the East they stood in a cleere Sea." The mutineers, being on shore some days after, were attacked by a party of Indians. "lohn Thomas and William Wilson had their bowels cut, and Michael Perce and Henry Greene being mortally wounded, came tumbling into the Boat together. When Andrew Moter saw this medley, hee came running downe the Rockes, and leaped into the Sea, and so swamme to the Boat, hanging on the sterne thereof, till Michael Perce tooke him in, who manfully made good the head of the Boat against the Sauages, that pressed sore vpon vs. Now Michael Perce had got an Hatchet, wherewith I saw him strike one of them, that he lay sprawling in the Sea. Henry Greene crieth Coragia, and layeth about him with his Truncheon: I cryed to them to cleere the Boat, and THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 103 Andrew Jloter cryed to bee taken in: the Sauages betooke them to their Bowes and Arrowes, which they sent amongst vs, wherewith Henry Greene was slaine outright, and Michael Perce receiued many wounds, and so did the rest. Michael Perce cleereth the Boate, and puts it from the shoare, and helpeth Andrew 2Moter in: but, in turning of the Boat, I receiued a cruell wound in my backe with an Arrow. Michael Perce and Andrew Moter rowed the Boate away, which when the Sauages saw, they ranne to their Boats, and I feared they would haue launched them, to haue followed vs, but they did not, and our ship was in the middle of the channell, and could not see vs. " Now, when they had rowed a good way from the shoare, Michael Perce fainted, and could row no more: then was Andrew Mfoter driuen to stand in the Boat head, and waft to the ship, which (at the first) saw vs not, and when they did, they could not tel what to make of vs, but in the end they stood for vs, and so tooke vs vp. Henry Greene was throwne out of the Boat into the Sea, and the rest were had aboard, the Sauage being yet aliue, yet without sense. But they died all there that day, William Wilson swearing and cursing in the most fearefull manner: JMichael Perce liued two dayes after, and then died. Thus you haue heard the Tragicall end of Henry Greene and his Mates, whom they called Captaine, these foure being the only lustie men in all the ship." After this, Robert Juet took the command, but " dyed, for meere want," before they arrived at Plymouth, which is the last we hear of them, except that Pricket was taken up to London to Sir Thomas Smith. 104 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. The unfortunate Hudson and his companions were never heard of more. Doubtless they perished miserably, by famine, cold, or savage cruelty. But the mighty river which he first explored, and the great bay to the north, by bearing his name, preserve his memory, and will continue to preserve it to the latest posterity. We thought we could do no less than call the attention of the traveller, for a few moments, to the hard fate of one to whom they are originally indebted for much of the pleasures of the tour to the Springs. After the traveller has paid tribute to the memory of Henry Hudson by reading the preceding sketch of his melancholy end, he may indulge himself in contemplating the beautiful world expanding every moment before him, appearing and vanishing in the rapidity of his motion, like creations of the imagination. Every object is beautiful, and its beauties are heightened by the eye having no time to be palled with contemplating them too long. Nature seems in jocund motion hurrying by, and as she moves along displays a thousand varied charms in rapid succession, each one more enchanting than the last. If the traveller casts his eyes backwards, he beholds the long perspective of waters gradually converging to a point at the Narrows, fringed with the low soft scenery of Jersey and Long Island, and crowned with the little buoyant islands on its bosom. If he looks before him, on one side the picturesque shore of Jersey, with its rich strip of meadows and orchards, now backed by the wood-crowned hills, and again by perpendicular walls of solid rock, and on the other, York Island with its thousand little palaces, sporting its green THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 105 fields and waving woods, by turns allure his attention, and make him wish, either that the river had but one side, or that he had more eyes to admire its beauties. As the vessel wafts him merrily, merrily along, new beauties crowd upon him so rapidly as almost to confuse the impressions of the view. That noble ledge of rocks which is worthy to form the barrier of the noble river, and which extends for sixteen miles, shows itself in a succession of sublime bluffs, projecting out one after the other, looking like the fabled works of the giants. High on these cliffs, may be seen the woodman, pitching his billet from the very edge down a precipice of hundreds of feet, whence it slides or bounds to the water's edge, and is received on board its destined vessel. At other points, on some steep slope, you will see the quarriers, undermining huge masses of rocks that in the lapse of ages have separated from the cliff above, and setting them rolling down with thundering crashes to the level beach below. Here and there under the dark impending cliff, where nature has formed a little green nook or flat, some enterprising skipper who owns a little periauger, or some hardy quarryman, has erected his little cot. There, when the afternoon shadows envelop the rocks, the woods, and the shore, may be seen little groups of children sporting in all the glee of youthful idleness- some setting their shaggy dog to swimming after a chip, others worrying some patient pussy, others wading along the smooth sands, knee-deep in the waters, and others, perhaps, stopping to stare at the moving wonder champing by, then chasing the long ripple occasioned by its furious motion, as it breaks along the beach. Contrasting beautifully with this 106 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. long mural precipice on the west, the eastern bank exhibits a charming variety of outline, in long, graceful, curving hills, - here sinking into little vales, each pouring forth a gurgling brook - there rising again into tree-clad eminences, presenting the image of a succession of mighty waves, suddenly arrested in their rolling career, and turned into mingled woods and meadows and fertile fields, rich in all the evidences of industry, and animated with cattle, sheep, and whistling ploughmen. These precipices are said to be of the trap formation, a most important species of rock in geology, as whoever " understands trap" may set up for a master of the science. In many places, this trap formation is found apparently based on a horizontal stratum of primitive rock. This has somewhat shaken the trap theory, and puzzled geologists. But we leave them to settle the affair, and pass on to objects of more importance to the tourist, in a historical point of view at least. At Sneden's Landing, opposite Dobb's Ferry, the range of perpendicular trap rocks, disappears. You again detect it, opposite Sing Sing, where it exhibits itself in a most picturesque and beautiful manner at intervals, in the range of mountains bordering the west side of the river, between Nyack and Haverstraw. At Sneden's commences a vast expanse of salt-meadows, generally so thickly studded with barracks and hay-stacks, as to present at a distance the appearance of a great city rising out of the famed Tappan Sea, like Venice from the Adriatic. Travellers, who have seen both, observe a great similarity — but, on the whole, prefer the hay-stacks. Here THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 107 begins the Tappan Sea, where the river expands to a breadth of three miles, and where, in the days of log-canoes and pine skiffs, full many an adventurous navigator is said to have encountered dreadful perils in crossing over from the Slote * to Tarrytown. At present its dangers are all traditionary. The western border of this beautiful expanse is mountainous; but the hills rise in such gradual ascent that the whole is cultivated to the very top, and exhibits a charming display of variegated fields. That the soil was once rich is established by the fact of this whole district being settled by the Dutch, than whom there never was a people better at smelling out rich vales and fat alluvial shores. Here the race subsists, unadulterated to the present time. The sons are cast in the same mould with the father and grandfather; the daughters depart not from the examples of their mothers and grandmothers. The former eschew the mysteries of modern tailoring, and the latter borrow not the fashion of their bonnets from the French milliners. They travel not in steamboats, or in any other newfangled inventions; abhor canals and railroads, and will go five miles out of the way to avoid a turnpike. They mind nobody's business but their own, and such is their inveterate attachment to home, that it is credibly reported there are men now living along the shores of the river, who not only have never visited the renowned Tarrytown, directly opposite, but who know not even its name. They are deplorably deficient in the noble science [* A creek just South of the present Piermont dock. It was called by the old Dutch folks, The Tappan Slote.] 108 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. of gastronomy, and such is their utter barbarity of taste, that they never eat but when they are hungry, nor after they are satisfied, and the consequence of this savage indifference to the chief good of life is that they one and all remain without those infallible patents of high-breeding, gout and dyspepsia. Since the period of the first settlement of this region, the only changes that have ever been known to take place are, first, those brought about by death, who, if report says true, has sometimes had his match with some of these tough old copperheads; secondly, in the aspect of the soil, which from an interminable forest has become a garden; and, thirdly, in the size of the loaves of bread, which from five feet long have dwindled down into the ordinary dimensions. For this unheard-of innovation, the people adduce in their justification the following undoubted tradition, which, like their hats and their petticoats, has descended from generation to generation without changing a syllable. "Some time in the autumn of the year 1694, just when the woods were on the change, Yffrouw, or Vrouw, Katrinchee Van Noorden was sitting at breakfast with her husband and family, consisting of six stout boys and as many strapping girls, all dressed in their best, for it was of a Sunday morning. Vrouw Katrinchee had a loaf of fresh rye-bread between her knees, the top of which was about on a line with her throat, the other end resting upon a napkin on the floor; and was essaying with the edge of a sharp knife to cut off the upper crust for the youngest boy, who was the pet; when unfortunately it recoiled from the said crust, and, before the good vrouw had THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 109 time to consider the matter, sliced off her head as clean as a whistle, to the great horror of Mynheer Van Noorden, who actually stopped eating his breakfast. This awful catastrophe brought the big loaves into disrepute among the people, but such was their attachment to good old customs, that it was not until Domine Koontzie denounced them as against the law and the prophets that they could be brought to give them up. As it is, the posterity of the Van Noordens to this day keep up the baking of big loaves, in conformity to the last will and testament of their ancestor, who decreed that the memory of this event should be thus preserved in his family." * On the opposite side of the river, snugly nestling in a little bay, lies Tarrytown, famous for its vicinity to the spot where the British spy, Andr6, was intercepted by the three honest lads of Westchester. If the curious traveller is inclined to stop and view this spot, to which a romantic interest will ever be attached, the following directions will suffice. " Landing at Tarrytown, t it is about a quarter of a mile to the post-road, at Smith's tavern. Following the post-road due North, about half a mile, you come to a little bridge over a small stream, known by the name of Clark's Kill, and sometimes almost dry. Formerly the wood on the left hand, South of the bridge, approached close to the road, and there was a bank on the opposite side, which was steep enough to prevent escape on horseback that way. The road from the North, as it approaches the bridge, is nar* We quote from the manuscript ana of Alderman Janson, to which we shall frequently refer in the course of this work. t Vide ana of Alderman Janson. 110 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. rowed between two banks of six or eight feet high, and makes an angle just before it reaches it. Here, close within the copse of wood on the left, as you approach from the village, the three militia lads, (for lads they were, being hardly one and twenty), concealed themselves, to wait for a suspicious stranger, of whom they had notice from a Mrs. Read, at whose house they had stopped on their way towards Kingsbridge. A Mr. Talmadge, a Revolutionary officer, and a member of the House of Representatives, some years since took occasion to stigmatize these young men; as Cow Boys, out on a plundering expedition. The imputation was false; they were in possession of passes from General Philip Van Courtlandt, to proceed beyond the lines, as they were called, and of course, by the laws of war, were authorized to be where they were. " As Major Andr6 approached, according to the universal tradition among the old people of Westchester, John Paulding darted out upon him and seized his horse's bridle. Andr6 was exceedingly startled at the suddenness of this rencounter, and, in in a moment of unguarded surprise, exclaimed-'Where do you belong?' "'Below,' was the reply, this being the expression commonly used to designate the lines of the British, who were then in possession of New York. "' So do I,' was the rejoinder of Andr6 in the joyful surprise of the moment. It has been surmised that this hasty admission sealed his fate. But, when we reflect that he was suspected before, and that afterwards not even the production of his pass from General Arnold could prevail upon the young men to THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 111 let him go, it will appear sufficiently probable that this imprudent avowal was not the original cause of his being detained and examined. After some discussion and the exhibiting of his pass, he was taken into the wood, and searched, not without a good deal of unwillingness on his part. It is said he particularly resisted the pulling-off of his right boot, which contained the treasonable documents. When these were discovered, it is also said that Andre unguardedly exclaimed,'I'm lost!'; but, presently recollecting himself, added,'No matter -they dare not hang me.' "Finding himself discovered, Andre offered his gold watch and a purse of guineas for his release. These were rejected. He then proposed that they should secrete him, while one of the party carried a letter, which he would write in their presence, to Sir Henry Clinton, naming the ransom necessary to his discharge, and which they might themselves specify, pledging his honour that it should accompany their associate on his return. To this they likewise refused their assent. Andr6 then threatened them with a severe punishment for daring to disregard a pass from the commanding general at West Point; and bade them beware of carrying him to head-quarters, for they would only be tried by a court-martial and punished for mutiny. Still the firmness of these young men sustained them against all these threats and temptations, and they finally delivered him to Colonel Jameson. It is no insignificant evidence of the weight of the influences thus overcome, that Colonel Jameson, an officer of the regular army, commanding a point of great consequence, so far yielded to the production of this pass as to permit Andre to write to General 112 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Arnold a letter, which enabled that traitor to escape the ignominious fate he deserved. "While in custody of the three Westchester volunteers, Andr6 is said gradually to have recovered from his depression of spirits, so as to sit with them after supper, and chat about himself and his situation, still preserving his incognito of John Anderson. In the course of the evening which he passed in their company, he related the following singular little anecdote. It seems, the evening before he left London to embark for America, he was in company with some young ladies of his familiar acquaintance, when it was proposed, that, as he was going to a distant country on a peril( as service, he should have his fortune told by a famous sibyl, at that time fashionable in town, in order that his friends might know what would become of him while away. They went accordingly, when the beldam, after the customary grimace and cant, on examining his palms, gravely announced,'That he was going a great distance, and would either be hanged, or come very near it, before he returned.' All the company laughed at this awful annunciation, and joked with him on the way back.' But,' added Andr6, smiling,'I seem in a fair way of fulfilling the prophecy.' " It was not till Andre arrived at head-quarters, and concealment became no longer possible, that he wrote the famous letter to General Washington, avowing his name and rank. He was tried by a court-martial, found guilty on his own confession, and hanged at Tappan, where he met his fate with dignity, and excited in the bosoms of the Americans that sympathy as a criminal, which has since been challenged for him THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 113 as a hero and a martyr. A few years since, the British consul at New York caused his remains to be disinterred and sent to England, where, to perpetuate if possible the delusion of his having suffered in an honourable enterprise, they were buried in Westminster Abbey, among heroes, statesmen, and poets. The thanks of Congress, with a medal, an annuity, and a farm, were bestowed on each of the three young volunteers, and, lately, a handsome monument has been erected by the corporation of New. York, to Jthn Paulding, at Peekskill, where his body was buried. The other two, Isaac Van Wart and David Williams, still survive. " About half a quarter of a mile south of Clark's Kill bridge, on tbL high-road, formerly stood the great tulip, or white-wood, tree, which,, being the most conspicuous object in the immediate vicinity, has been usually designated as the spot where Andre was taken and searched. It was one of the most magnificent of trees, one hundred and eleven: feet and a half high, the limbs projecting on. either side more than eighty feet from the trunk,.which was ten paces round. More than twenty years ago it was struck by lightning, and its old weather-beaten, stock so shivered that it fell to the ground, and it was remarked by the old people, that on the very same day they for the first time read in the newspapers the death of Arnold. Arnold lived in England on a pension, which we believe is still continued to his children. His name was always coupled, even there, with infamy; insomuch that when the Duke of Richmond, Lord Shelburne, and other violent opponents of the American Revolutionary war, were appointed to office, the late Duke 8 114 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. of Lauderdale remarked that,' If the king wished to employ traitors, he wondered that he should have overlooked Benedict Arnold.' For this he was called out by Arnold, and they exchanged shots, but without effect. Since then we know nothing of Arnold's history, till his death. He died as he lived during the latter years of his life, an object of detestation to his countrymen, of contempt to the rest of the world. " There is a romantic interest attached. to the incidents just recorded, which will always make the capture of Andre a popular story; and the time will come when it will be chosen as the subject of poetry and the drama, as it has been of history and tradition. There is already a play founded upon it, by Mr. William Dunlap, the writer and translator of many dramatic works. Mr. Dunlap has however, we think, committed a mistake, in which nevertheless he is countenanced by most other writers - that of making Andre his hero. There is also extant a history of the whole affair, written by Joshua Hett Smith, the person who accompanied Andr6 across the river from Haverstraw, and whose memory is still in some measure implicated in the treason of Arnold. It is written with much passion and prejudice, and abounds in toryisms. Neither Washington, Greene, nor any of the members of the court-martial, escape the most degrading imputations: and the three young men who captured Andr6 are stigmatized with cowardice, as well as treachery! The history is the production of a man who seems to have had but one object, that of degrading the characters of others, with a view of bolstering up his own. Washington and Greene re THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 115 quire no guardians to defend their memory, at one time assailed by women and dotards, on the score of having, the one, presided at the just condemnation of a spy, the other, refused his pardon to the threats and bullyings of the enemy. The reputations of the three young captors of Andr6 have also been attacked, where one would least of all expect it —in the Congress of the United States, where, some years ago, an honourable member denounced them as Cow Boys; and declared to the house that Major Andr6 had assured him he would have been released, could he have made good his promises of great reward from Sir Henry Clinton. The characters of these men were triumphantly vindicated by the publication of the testimony of nearly all the aged inhabitants of Westchester, who bore ample testimony to the purity of their lives and the patriotism of their motives. The slander is forgotten, and if its author be hereafter remembered, no one will envy him his reputation." Tarrytown is still farther distinguished by being within a mile or two of Sleepy Hollow, the scene of a pleasant legend of our friend Geoffrey Crayon, with whom in days long past we have often explored this pleasant valley, fishing along the brooks, though he was beyond all question the worst fisherman we ever knew. He had not the patience of Job's wife - and without patience no man can be a philosopher or a fisherman. SING SING. Sing Sing is a pleasant village, on the west side of the river, about six miles above Tarrytown. It is a very musical place, (as its name imports), for all the 116 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. birds sing charmingly; and is blessed with a pure air, and delightful prospects. There is a silver mine a couple of hundred yards from the village, to which we recommend the adventurers in the South-American and North-Carolinian mines to turn their attention. They will certainly lose money by working it, but the money will be spent at home, and the village will benefit by their patriotism. If they get ruined, there is a state-prison close by where they will find an asylum. There is an old lady living in the neighbourhood, who recollects hearing her father say, that he had once, before the Revolutionary war, been concerned in this mine; and there is a sixpence still preserved in the family, coined from its produce, that only cost him two hundred pounds. A new state-prison is being built here, from marble procured on the spot, in which the doleful experiment of solitary confinement is to be tried. It will not do. It will only be substituting lingering torments for those of sudden death. Without society, without books, without employment, without anticipations, and without the recollection of any thing but crimes, insanity or death must be the consequence of a protracted seclusion of this sort. A few days will be an insufficient lesson, and a few months would be worse than death-madness or idiocy. It is a fashionable Sunday excursion with a certain class of idlers in New York, to visit this prison in the steam-boat. It is like going to look at their lodgings before they are finished. Some of them will get there if they don't mind. After all, we think those philanthropists are in the right, who are for abolishing the criminal code entirely, and relying on the improved spirit of the age and the progress of moral feeling. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 117 Three or four miles east of Sing Sing, is the CHAPPAQUA SPRING, which at one time came very nigh getting the better of Ballston, Saratoga and Harrowgate, for it is a fact well authenticated, that one or two persons of good fashion came uncommonly near being cured of that incurable disease called " I dont know what," by drinking these waters. Upon the strength of this, some " public-spirited individuals" erected a great hotel for the public accommodation. We wish w 3 knew their names, as we look upon every man who builds a tavern as a public benefactor, upon the authority of the famous prize-poet, heretofore quoted, who says:"Thrice happy land! to glorious fates a prey, Where taverns multiply, and cots decay! And happy they, the happiest of their kind, Who ease and freedom in a tavern find! No household cares molest the chosen man Who, at the tavern, tosses off his can, Who, far from all the irksome cares of life, And, most of all, that care of cares, a wife, Lives free and easy, all the livelong year, And dies without the tribute of a tear, Save from some Boniface's bloodshot eye, Who grieves that such a liberal soul should die, And on that' Canongate of Chronicles,' the door, Leave such a long unliquidated score." POINT NO POINT. Directly opposite to Sing Sing is Point no Point, a singular range of highlands of the trap formation, which is extremely apt to deceive the traveller who don't "understand trap", as the geologists say. In sailing along up the river, a point of land appears at all times, (except in a dense fog or a dark night, when we advise the reader not to look out for it), projecting 118 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. far into the river. On arriving opposite, it seems to recede, and to appear again a little beyond. Some travellers compare this Point no Point to a great metaphysician, who reasons through a whole quarto, without coming to a conclusion. Others liken it to the great Dr., who plays round his subject like children about a bonfire,, but never ventures too near, lest he should catch it, and, belike, burn his fingers. Others again approximate it to the speech of a member of Congress, which always seems coming to the point, but never arrives at it. The happiest similitude however, in our opinion, was that of a young lady, who compared a dangling dandy admirer of hers to Point no Point, "Because," said she, "he is always pointing to his game, but never makes a dead-point." If the traveller should happen to go ashore here, by following the road from Slaughter's Landing up the mountain, about half a mile, he will come suddenly upon a beautiful sheet of pure water nine miles in circumference, called Snedecker's Lake, a name abhorred of Poetry and the Nine. The southern extremity is bounded by a steep pine-clad mountain, which dashes headlong down almost perpendicularly into the bosom of the lake, while all the other portions of its graceful circle are rich in cultivated rural beauties. The Brothers of the Angle may here find pleasant sport, and peradventure catch a pike, the noblest of all fishes, because he has the noblest appetite. Alas!, how is the pride of human reason mortified at the thought that a pike, not one tenth the bulk of a common-sized man, can eat as much as half a score of the most illustrious gourmands! — and that too without dyspepsia, or apoplexy. Let not man boast any longer THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 119 of his being the lord of the creation. Would we were a pike, and lord of Snedecker's Lake, for, as the great prize-poet sings in a fit of hungry inspiration: — "I sing the Pike! not him of lesser fame, Who gained at Little York a deathless name, And died a martyr to his country's weal, Instead of dying of a glorious meal - But thee, 0 Pike!, lord of the finny crew, King of the waters, and of eating, too. Imperial glutton, that for tribute seizest As many glittering small fry as thou pleasest, No surfeits on thy ample feeding wait, No apoplexy shortens thy long date; The patriarch of eating, thou dost shine; A century of gluttony is thine. Sure the old tale of transmigration's true: The soul of Heliogabalus dwells in you! " STONY POINT. This is a rough, picturesque point, pushing boldly out into the river, directly opposite to Verplanek's Point on the east side. The remains of a redoubt are still to be seen on its brow, and it was the scene of one of the boldest exploits of one of the boldest spirits of a revolution fruitful in both. The fort was carried at midnight at the point of the bayonet, by a party of Americans under General Anthony Wayne, the fireeater of his day. In order to judge of this feat, it is necessary to examine the place and see the extreme difficulty of approach. The last achievement of " Mad Anthony - (so he was christened by his admiring soldiers who would follow him any where) -was the decisive defeat of the Indians at the battle of Miami, in 1794, which gave rest to a long-harassed and extensive frontier, and led to the treaty of Greenville, by which the United States acquired an immense 120 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. accession of territory. He died at Presque Isle on Lake Erie, in the fifty-second year of his age. It is believed that Pennsylvania yet owes him a monument. There is a light-house erected here, on the summit of the point. We have heard people laugh at it as entirely useless, but doubtless they did not know what they were talking about. Light-houses are of two kinds, the useful and the ornamental. The first are to guide mariners, the others to accommodate the lovers of the picturesque. The light-house at Stony Point is of the latter description. It is a fine object either in approaching or leaving the Highlands, and foul befall the carping Smelfungus who does not thank the public-spirited gentleman, (whoever he was), to whom we of a picturesque turn are indebted for the contemplation of this beautiful superfluity. Half the human race, (we mean no disparagement to the lasses we adore), and indeed half the world, is only made to look at. Why not, then, a light-house? The objections are untenable, for if a light-house be of no other use, it at least affords a snug place for some lazy philosopher to loll out the rest of his life on the featherbed of a cosy sinecure. We now approach the Highlands, and advise the reader to shut himself up in the cabin and peruse the following pages attentively, as it is our intention to give a sketch of this fine scenery, so infinitely superior to the reality, that Nature will not be able to recognise herself in our picture. Genius of the picturesque sublime, or the sublime picturesque, inspire us! Thou that didst animate the soul of John Bull, insomuch that, if report says true, THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 121 he did once get up from dinner, before it was half discussed, to admire the sublime projection of Anthony's Nose - thou that erewhile didst allure a first-rate belle and beauty from adjusting her curls at the lookingglass, to gaze for more than half a minute at beauties almost equal to her own- thou that dost sometimes actually inspirit that last best work of the ninth part of a man, the dandy, actually to yawn with delight at the Crow's Nest, and pull up his breeches at sight of Fort Putnam- thou genius of travellers, and tutelary goddess of book-making - grant us a pen of fire, ink of lightning, and words of thunder, to do justice to the mighty theme! First comes the gigantic Donderbarrack —(all mountains are called gigantic, because the ancient race of giants was turned into mountains, which accounts for the race being extinct)- first comes the mighty Donderbarrack, president of hills - (we allow of no king-mountains in our book) -whose head is hid in the clouds, whenever the clouds come down low enough; at whose foot dwells in all the feudal majesty (only a great deal better) of a Rhoderick Dhu, the famous highland chieftain, Caldwell, lord of Donderbarrack, and of all the little hills that grow out of his ample sides like warts on a giant's nose. To this mighty chieftain all the steam-boats do homage, by ringing their bells, slowing their machinery, and sending their boats ashore to carry him the customary tribute, to wit, store of visitors, whom it is his delight to entertain at his hospitable castle. This stately pile is of great antiquity, its history being lost in the dark ages of the last century, when the Indian prowled about these hills, and shot his deer, ere the advance of 122 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. the white man swept him away forever. Above -as the prize-poet sings"High on the cliffs the towering eagles soar - But hush, my muse -for poetry's a bore." Turning the base of Donderbarrack, the nose of all noses, Anthony's Nose, gradually displays itself to the enraptured eye, which must be kept steadily fixed on these our glowing pages. Such a nose is not seen every day. Not the famous hero of Slawkenbergius, whose proboscis emulated the steeple of Strasburg, ever had such a nose to his face. Taliacotius himself never made such a nose in his life. It is worth while to go ten miles to hear it blow -you would mistake it for a trumpet. The most curious thing about it is, that it looks no more like a nose than my foot. But, now we think of it, there is something still more curious connected with this nose. There is not a soul born within five miles of it, but has a nose of most jolly dimensions- not quite as large as the mountain, but pretty well. It is the custom for the passengers in steam-boats to salute it in passing with a universal blow of the nose: after which, they shake their kerchiefs at it, and put them carefully in their pockets. No young lady ever climbs to the top of this stately nose, without affixing her white cambric handkerchief to a stick, placing it upright in the ground, and leaving it waving there, in hopes that all her posterity may be blessed with goodly noses. Immediately on passing the Nose the Sugar Loaf appears: keep your eye on the book for your lifeyou will be changed to a loaf of sugar if you don't. This has happened to several of the disciples of Lot's THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 123 wife, who thereby became even sweeter than they were before. Remember poor Eurydice, whose fate was sung in burlesque by an infamous outcast bachelor, who, it is said, was afterwards punished, by marrying a shrew who made him mix the mustard every day for dinner. WEST POINT. "If the traveller," observes Alderman Janson, "intends stopping here, to visit the Military Academy and its admirable superintendent, I advise him to make his will before he ventures into the landingboat. That more people have not been drowned in this adventurous experiment can only be accounted for on the supposition that miracles are growing to be but every-day matters. There is, I believe, a law regulating the mode of landing passengers from steam-boats, but it is a singular fact that laws will not execute themselves, notwithstanding all the wisdom of the legislature. Not that I mean to find fault with the precipitation with which people and luggage are tumbled together into the boat, and foisted ashore at the rate of fifteen miles an hour. At least five minutes in the passage to Albany is saved by this means, and so much added to the delights of the tourist, who is thereby enabled to spend five minutes more at the Springs. Who would not risk a little drowning, and a little scalding, for such an object? Certainly the most precious of all commodities, (especially to people who don't know what to do with it), is time; except, indeed, it may be, money to a miser who never spends any. It goes to my heart to find 124 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. fault with any thing in this best of all possible worlds, where the march of mind is swifter than a race-horse or a steam-boat, and goes hand-in-hand with the progress of public improvement, like Darby and Joan, or Jack and Gill, blessing this fortunate generation, and preparing the way for a world of steam-engines, spinning-jennies, and machinery: insomuch that there would be no use at all for such an animal as man in this world any more, if steam-engines and spinningjennies would only make themselves. But the reader will I trust excuse me this once, for venturing to hint with a modesty that belongs to my nature, that all this hurry-this racing-this tumbling of men, women, children, and baggage, into a boat, helterskelter - this sending them ashore at the risk of their lives —might possibly be excusable if it were done for the public accommodation. But such is not the fact. It is nothing but the struggle of interested competition, the effort to run down a rival boat, and get all, instead of sharing with others. The public accommodation requires that boats should go at different times of the day, yet they prefer starting at the same hour, nay, at the same moment - eager to sweep off the passengers along the river, and risking the lives of people at West Point, that they may take up the passengers at Newburgh. The truth is, in point of ease and comfort, convenience and safety, the public is not now half so well off as during the existence of what the said public was persuaded to call a great grievance-the exclusive right of Mr. Fulton. " There is a most comfortable hotel at West Point, kept by Mr. Cozzens, a most obliging and good THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 125 humoured man, to whom we commend all our readers, with an assurance that they need not fear being cozened by him. Nothing can be more interesting than the situation of West Point, the grand object to which it is devoted, and the magnificent views it affords in all directions. If there be any inspiration in the sublime works of nature, or if the mind, as some believe, receives an impulse or direction from local situation, there is not, perhaps, in the world, a spot more favourable to the production of heroes and men of science. Secluded from the effeminate, or vicious, allurements of cities, both mind and body preserve a vigorous freshness which is eminently favourable to the development of each without enfeebling either. Manly studies and manly exercise go hand-inhand, and manly sentiments are the natural consequence. The bodies of the cadets are invigorated by military exercise and habits, while their intellects are strengthened, expanded, and purified, by the acquirement of those high branches of science, those graces of literature, and those elegant accomplishments, which when combined constitute the complete man. No one whose mind is susceptible of noble emotions can see these fine young fellows going through their exercises on the plain of West Point, to the sound of the bugle repeated by a dozen echoes of the mountains, while all the magnificence of nature concurs in adding beauty and dignity to the scene and the occasion, without feeling his bosom swell and glow with patriotic pride. " If these young men require an example to warn or to stimulate, they will find it in the universal execration heaped upon the name and the memory of 126 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS.Benedict Arnold, contrasted with the reverential affection, that will forever descend to the latest posterity as an heirloom, with which every American pronounces the name of Washington. It was at West Point that Arnold betrayed his country, and it was on the hills opposite West Point that Washington wintered with his army, during the most gloomy period of our Revolution, rendered still more gloomy by the treason of Arnold, so happily frustrated by the virtue of the American yeomanry. The remains of the huts are still to be seen on Redoubt Hill and its vicinity, and there is a fine spring on the banks of a brook near by, to this day called Washington's, from being the spring whence the water was procured for his drinking. It issues from the side of a bank closely embowered with trees, and is excessively cold. The old people in the vicinity, who generally live to about a hundred, still cherish the tradition of its uses, and direct the attention of inquirers to it, with a feeling than which nothing can more affectingly indicate the depth of the devotion to her good father implanted in the heart of America. Close to the spring are two of the prettiest little cascades to be found any where. Indeed, the whole neighbourhood abounds in beautiful views and romantic associations, and it is worth while to cross over in a boat from West Point to spend a morning here in rambling." On the opposite side of the river from West Point, and about two miles distant, lies COLD SPRING, a pleasant, thriving little village. Perhaps the pleasantest ride in the whole country is from here to Fishkill Landing. A road has been made along the foot of the mountains. On one hand it is washed by the river THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 127 -on the other overhung by Bull and Breakneck Hills, the base of which latter has been blown up in places to afford room for it to pass. The prospects all along are charming, and, on turning the beak of Breakneck Hill, there opens to the north and northwest a view, which when seen will not soon be forgotten. Nearly opposite Cold Spring, at the foot of two mountains and inaccessible except from the river, lies the CITY OF FAITH -a city by brevet; founded by an enterprising person, with the intention of cutting out Washington, and making it the capital of the United States -and indeed of the New World.* He has satisfied himself that the spot thus aptly selected is the point of navigation the nearest possible to the great Northern Pacific, and contemplates a railroad, from thence to the mouth of Columbia River. This must necessarily concentrate travel at this fortunate spot. After which his intention is to dig down the Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, or decompose the rocks with vinegar, in order that travellers may get at his emporium, by land, without breaking their necks. He has already six inhabitants to begin with, and wants nothing to the completion of this great project, but a bank -a subscription of half a dozen millions from the government -a loan of "the credit of the state," for about as much - and a little more faith in the people. We think the prospect quite cheering, and would rejoice in the prospective glories of the City of Faith, were it not for the apprehension that it will prove fatal to the Ohio and Chesapeake Canal, [* There was such a scheme. The projector might have been a visionary; but he got up a fine map, and sold as many lots as he could.] 128 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. and swallow up the Mamakating and Lacawaxan. This business of founding cities is in America considered a mere trifle. They make a great noise about Ronmulus the founder of Rome, and Peter the founder of St. Petersburg! We knew a man who had founded twelve great cities, some of which, like Rome, are already in ruins; and yet he never valued himself on that account. As you emerge from the Highlands, a noble vista is gradually disclosed to the view. The little towns of NEW CORNWALL, NEW WINDSOR, and NEWBURGH, are seen in succession along the west bank of the river, which here, as if rejoicing at its freedom from the mountain barrier, expands itself into a wide bay, with Fishkill and Matteawan on the east, and the three little towns on the opposite side, the picturesque shores of which rise gradually into highlands, bounded in the distance to the north-west by the blue summits of the Kaatskill Mountains. Into this bay, on the east, enters Fishkill Creek, a fine stream which waters some of the richest and most beautiful valleys of Dutchess County. Approaching the Hudson, it exhibits several picturesque little cascades, which have lately been spoiled by dams and manufactories, those atrocious enemies to all picturesque beauty, as the prize-poet exclaims in a fine burst of enthusiasm — poetical enthusiasm, consisting in swearing roundly. "Mill-dams be damned, and all his race accurs'd, Who damned a stream by damming it the first!" On the west, and nearly opposite, enters Murderer's Creek, which, after winding its way through the delightful vale of Canterbury, as yet unvisited and undescribed by tourist or traveller, tumbles over a THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 129 villanous mill-dam into the river. If the traveller has a mind for a beautiful ride in returning from the Springs, let him land at Newburgh, and follow the turnpike-road through the village of Canterbury, on to the Clove, a pass of the great range of mountains, through with the Ramapo plunges its way among the rocks. The ride through this pass is highly interesting, and the point where the Ramapo emerges from the southern side of the mountains is well worthy of attention. Here joining the Mauwy, it courses its way through a narrow vale of exquisite beauty, till it is lost on the Pompton Plains in the river of that name. The roads are as good as usual, but the accommodations are not the best in the world, and those who love good eating and good beds better than nature's beauties, (among whom we profess ourselves), may go some other way. Those who choose this route by way of variety, must by no means forget the house of Mynheer Roome, at Pompton village famed in song, where they will meet with mortal store of good things, including sweetmeats of divers sorts and cakes innumerable and unutterable, and hear the Dutch language spoken in all its original purity, with the true Florentine accent. But let the traveller beware of talking to him about turnpikes, railways, or canals, all which he abhorreth. In particular, avoid the subject of the MoRRIs CANAL, at the very name of which Mynheer's pipe will be seen to pour forth increasing volumes of angry smoke, and, like another Vesuvius, he will disgorge whole torrents of red-hot Dutch lava. In truth Mynheer Roome has an utter contempt for modern improvements, and we don't know but he is half-right. " Dey 9 130 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. always cost more dan dey come to," he says; and those who contemplate the sober primitive independence of the good Mynheer, and see his fat cattle, his fat negroes, and his fat self, encompassed by rich meadows and smiling fields, all unaided by the magic of modern improvements, will be apt to think with him, " dat one half dese tings dey call improvements " add little, if anything, to human happiness, or domestic independence. Within a couple of hundred yards of Mynheer Roome's door, the Pompton, Ramapo, and Ringwood, three little rivers in whose very bottoms you can see your face, unite their waters, gathered from the hills to the North and West, and, assuming the name of the first, wind through the extensive plain in many playful meanders almost out of character for Dutch rivers, till they finally disappear, through a break in the hills, towards the South. From Pompton there is a good road to Hoboken, by diverging a little from which the traveller may visit the falls of Passaic, which were once the pride of nature, who has lately resigned them to her rival, art, and almost disowns them now. But it is high time to return to Murderer's Creek, and Canterbury Vale, which hath been sung, (by the prize-poet so often quoted), in the following strains, which partake of the true mystical metaphysical sublime. "As I was going to Canterbury, I met twelve hay-cocks in a fury, And, as I gaz'd, a hieroglyphic bat Skimm'd o'er the zenith in a slip-shod hat." From which the intelligent traveller will derive as clear an idea of the singular charms of this vale as from most descriptions in prose or verse. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 131 The name of Murderer's Creek is said to be derived from the following incidents. Little more than a century ago, the beautiful region watered by this stream was possessed by a small tribe of Indians, long since become extinct or incorporated with some other savage nation of the west. Three or four hundred yards from where the stream discharges itself into the Hudson, a white family, of the name of Stacey, had established itself in a loghouse, by tacit permission of the tribe, to whom Stacey had made himself useful by his skill in a variety of little arts held in high estimation by the savages. In particular, a friendship subsisted between him and an old Indian called Naoman, who often came to his house and partook of his hospitality. The Indians never forgive injuries, nor forget benefits. The family consisted of Stacey, his wife, and two children, a boy and girl, the former five, the latter three years old. One day, while Stacey was absent, Naoman came to his log-hut, lighted his pipe, and sat down. He looked very serious, sometimes sighed deeply, but said not a word. Stacey's wife asked him what was the matter, and if he was sick. He shook his head, sighed, but said nothing, and soon went away. The next day he came again, and behaved in the same manner. Stacey's wife began to think strange of this, and related it to her husband, who advised her to urge the old man to an explanation, the next time he came. Accordingly, when he repeated his visit the day after, she was more importunate than usual. At last the old Indian said, "I am a red man, and the pale-faces are our enemies —why should I speak? " 132 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. "But my husband and I are your friends; you have eaten salt with us a thousand times, and my children have sat on your knee as often. If you have any thing on your mind, tell it me." "It will cost me my life if it is known, and the white-faced women are not good at keeping secrets," replied Naoman. "Try me, and see." "Will you swear by your Great Spirit, you will tell none but your husband?" " I have none else to tell." " But will you swear?" I do swear by our Great Spirit, I will tell none but my husband." "Not if my tribe should kill you for not telling? " "Not if your tribe should kill me for not telling." Naoman then proceeded to inform her that, owing to some encroachments of the white people below the mountains, his tribe had become irritated, and were resolved that night to massacre all the white settlers within their reach; and bade her find her husband at once, notify him of the danger, and, as secretly and speedily as possible, take their canoe, and paddle over the river to Fishkill for safety. "Be quick, and do nothing that may excite suspicion," said Naoman as he departed. The good wife sought her husband, who was on the river, fishing, and told him the story. As no time was to be lost, they proceeded to their boat, which was, unluckily, filled with water.. It took some time to clear it out, and meanwhile Stacey recollected his gun, which had been left behind. He hurried back to the house, and returned with it. All this took up considerable time, and costly time it proved to this poor family. THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 133 The daily visits of old Naoman, and his more than ordinary gravity, had excited suspicion in some of the tribe, who had accordingly paid particular attention to the moveinents of Stacey. One of the young Indians who had been kept on the watch, seeing the whole family about taking to their boat, ran to the little Indian village, about a mile off, and gave the alarm. Five Indians ran down to the riverside where their canoes were moored, jumped in, and paddled after Stacey, who by this time had got-some distance out into the bay. They gained on him so fast, that twice he dropped his paddle and took up his gun. But his wife prevented his shooting, by telling him that, if he fired and they were afterwards overtaken, they would meet no mercy from the Indians. He accordingly refrained, and plied his paddle, till the sweat rolled in big drops down his forehead. All would not do; they were overtaken within a hundred yards of the shore, and carried back with yells of triumph. When they got ashore, the Indians set fire to Stacey's house, and dragged himself, his wife, and his children, to their village. Here the principal old men, (Naoman being one of them), assembled to deliberate on the affair. The chief among them stated that some one of the tribe had undoubtedly been guilty of treason, in apprising Stacey, the white man, of the designs of the tribe, whereby he took the alarm, and had wellnigh escaped. He proposed to examine the prisoners, as to who gave the information. The old men assented to this; and Naoman among the rest. Stacey was first interrogated by one of the old men, who spoke English, and interpreted to the others. 134 THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. Stacey refused to betray his informant. His wife was then questioned, while two Indians stood threatening the two children with tomahawks. She attempted to evade the truth, by declaring that she had a dream the night before, which had alarmed her, and that she had persuaded her husband to fly. "The Great Spirit never deigns to talk in dreams to a white-face," said the old Indian: " Woman, thou hast two tongues and two faces. Speak the truth, or thy children shall surely die." The little boy and girl were then brought close to her, and the two savages stood over them, ready to execute their bloody orders. "Wilt thou name," said the old Indian, "the red man who betrayed his tribe? I will ask thee, three times." The mother answered not. "Wilt thou name the traitor? This is the second time." The poor mother looked at her husband, and then at her children, and stole a glance at Naoman, who sat smoking his pipe with invincible gravity. She wrung her hands and wIept; but remained silent. " Wilt thou name the traitor?'Tis the third, and last, time." The agony of the mother waxed more bitter; again she sought the eye of Naoman, but it was cold and motionless: a pause of a moment awaited her reply, and the next moment the tomahawks were raised over the heads of the children, who besought their mother not to let them be murdered. " Stop," cried Naoman. All eyes were turned upon him. "Stop," repeated he, in a tone of authority. "White woman, thou hast kept thy word with me to the last moment. I am the traitor. I have eaten of the salt, warmed myself at the fire, shared the kind THE NEW MIRROR FOR TRAVELLERS. 135 ness, of these Christian white people, and it was I that told them of their danger. I am a withered, leafless, branchless trunk: cut me down if you will. I am ready." A yell of indignation sounded on all sides. Naoman descended from the little bank where he sat, shrouded his face with his mantle of skins, and submitted to his fate. He fell dead at the feet of the white woman, by a blow of the tomahawk. But the sacrifice of Naoman, and the firmness of the brave Christian mother, did not suffice to save the lives of the other victims. They perished -how, it is needless to say; and the memory of their fate has been preserved in the name of the pleasant stream on whose banks they lived and died, which to this day is called Murderer's Creek. NEW CORNWALL, AND NEW WINDSOR. It is bad policy to call places, new. The title will do very well for a start, but, when they begin to assume an air of antiquity, it becomes quite unsuitable. It is too much the case with those who stand godfathers to towns in our country. They seem to think, because we live in a new world, every thing must be christened accordingly. The most flagrant instance of this enormity is New York, which, although ten times as large, and ten times as handsome as York in England, is destined by this infamous cognomen of, "