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""'::::::-r r:::7 ~ iiiiiiiii 3ii;i i;T ii i3i f =!!!i i! '! 1 i i! ' '!!!!!r!!!!!;TETT TT TT~ TT TTTI II II III EIIIIII ';r:rrrr rr r- =-e-i I.I IE II I = =. r A:t m in'O i o 2 0 6 aa 1.1- IWO ^teti-:?w-'.;:: -r-Y " ii~ \;X<<, s: 0 a 4i _j__ _II_ ~ _ __ _I ~~_ I~ ^~ I "" r k i I r~r, as /~~a - na fr J I; —:: i p~-~ I BPPsn erP rap~, -,a~. a ID OLD AND NEW MANILA, WITH THE LOWER PASIG RIVER-VIEW FROM THE OLD WALL ABOVE MAGELLAN PROMENADE, LOOKING TOWARD THE BAY HISTORY, AND DESCRIPTION OF OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND AND PHOTOGRAPHIC PANORAMA OF HAWAII, CUBA, PORTO RICO, SAMOA, GUAM, AND WAKE ISLAND WITH Entertaining Accounts of Their Peoples and Modes of Living, Customs, Industries, Climate and Present Conditions OVER 300 ILLUSTRATIONS And Large Colored Maps BY ADJUTANT E. HANNAFORD Author of "The Story of a Regiment," " History of Cuba," " Handy War Book," Etc. I899 THE CROWELL & KIRKPATRICK CO. SPRINGFIELD, OHIIO COPYRIC'i-T, 1899, iiY E. IHANLNAFORID PUBLISHERS' NOTE. —The address of Messrs. Andreae and Reeves, late photographers for the United States Signal Corps, Manila, a number of whose views are here reproduced, is as follows: Philippine Lecturers, Cornwall, New York. CONTENTS OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND PAGE Magellan in the Philippines..................................... 10 Legaspi and the Spanish Conquest........................... 11 W here Are the Philippines?................................... 13 Along Expansion Lines........................................... 15 Area, Coasts, Formation and Seas............................ 16 Mountains and Volcanoes........................................ 18 Philippine Earthquakes........................................... 20 Seasons and Climate................................................ 21 Monsoons and Typhoons....................................... 23 Are the Philippines Unhealthful?............................ 26 Population and Peoples........................................... 28 The " Little Negro " Aborigines............................... 30 The Igorrotes of Luzon................................... 32 The Head-hunters and Tinguianes........................... 34 The Philippine Malays............................................. 36 Our Conundrum: The Filipino............................... 39 The Filipino's Spanish Tutoring.............................. 41 Native Capabilities.................................................. 43 Music and Superstitions........................................... 46 A Land of W omen's Rights..................................... 48 Philippine Dwellings............................................... 50 Dress, Manners and Customs................................... 52 A Filipino W edding................................................ 54 Philippine Housekeeping......................................... 56 Village Life............................................................. 58 The Village Fiesta................................................... 61 Manila, the Emporiu............................................ 63 The Bay and Port of Malnila................................... 66 'The W alled City...................................................... 68 Binondo and New Manila........................................ 72 Streets, Police, Hotels and Street-cars...................... 74 Population: Mestizoes and Creoles......................... 77 John Chinaman, Millionaire and Paria.................. 80 PAGE Colleges, Observatory and Lepers' Hospital.............. 83 Waterworks and Cigar-factories............................... 85 Native and Other Markets...................................... 87 Newspapers and Fiestas........................................... 90 Operas and Garrotings..................................... 92 The Sport of Cock-fighting...................................... 95 Along the Streets of Manila................................... 97 Foreigners' Life in Manila....................................... 100 The Suburbs of Manila...................................... 103 Cavite and the Navy-yard....................................... 105 Laguna de Bay and the Lake Country...................... 107 The Church and Its Archbishop.......................... 109 The Religious Orders............................................... 112 Native Hatred for the Friars................................ 114 Spanish Administrative Methods............................. 117 Other Time-honored Spanish Ways......................... 119 Aguinaldo and the Insurrection of 1896................... 122 Foreign Theories and Philippine Developments....... 127 Native Essays in Civil Administration..................... 129 Opening of the Filipino-American War.................... 132 Hot-season Campaigning......................................... 135 Lawton's Work in the South................................... 138 The Rainy Season Status Quo........................ 140 Luzon: Physical Features, Bandits and Raillway...... 142 Subig Bay, Mindoro and Palawan............................ 145 The Visayas: Panay and Iloilo................................ 149 Negros, Cebu, Leyte and Samar............................. 151 Sulu Pearl-fisheries: The Moros.............................. 154 Mindanao and the Sulus.......................................... 157 Philippine A griculture............................................. 161 Crops, Trade and Currency..................................... 164 Fruits, Trees and Minerals....................................... 167 Philippine Animal Life..................................... 170 AMERICAN MICRONESIA 'The Ladrones and Carolines..................................... 173 Guam Island: The C a orros.......................... 174 M arshall and Gilbert Islands................................... 174 W ake Islandtl al a Pacific Calle............................. 177 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS History allnd 1)escriptionl........................... 179 I Recent Troubles and Samioan Conmmission.............. 181 HAWAIIAN AMERICA Captain Cook: Ancient Customs.............................. 183! Honolulu and Suburbs.................................. 194 Kamehami-ehla the Great: Civilization...................... 184 I A Vanis'hing Race...................................199 Americanlized Hawaii: Annexation......................... 189 i Volcanoes: Industrial Hawaii............................... 204 CUBA IN TRANSITION Introductory Sketch......................................... 209 Life in H avana '................................... 222 Description and Climnate......................................... 209 Santiago, Matanzas, Cienfuegos: Cuban Railroads... 226 Cuba Under Spain..................................... 210 Rural Cuba: Sugar and Tobacco Raising.................. 29 Old Glory's Triumphal March.................................. 214 Reconstruction: Relief Work and Sanitation........... 232 Havana: Harbor, Streets and Inlprovemtents........... 218 Alericanizing Cuba: The Outlook.......................... 235 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE G eneral Sketch........................................................ 239 The People: Porto Rican Peasants........................... 248 Harbors, M ountains and Roads................................ 241 San Juan, the Capital.............................................. 250 Climate and Products.............................................. 243 Ponce and Mayaguez: Some Odd Sights.................. 252 The Great Hurricane of 1899.................................... 246 i Porto Rican Industries: Railroads........................... 255 v ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE PAGE Old and New Manila, with Lower Pasig...... Frontispiece Visayan Peasantry and Their Hut........................... 57 Admiral George Dewey........................................... Native W asherwomen............................................. 58 Admiral Patricio Montojo y Pasaron........................ 9 Carabao and Wheeled Cart....................................... 59 Bamboo Bridge and Village Street................. 10 Native Village on the Island of Negros.................... 59 American Troops Embarking on Cascos, Manila...... 11 The Return from the Day's Work........................... 60 Company of Filipino Insurgents.............................. 12 Majaijai, a Typical Country Town, Interior Luzonl... 61 Wealthy Chinese Merchant of Canton..................... 12 Rural Filipinos in Holiday Attire............................. 62 Former Headquarters of Commandant, (avite.......... 13 Tagal Woman of Manila.......................................... 62 Australian Warrior Throwing Boomerang............... 14 Disappearing Coast-defense Gun at Sandy Hook, North Australian Beauty of the (4i Dln Tribe............. 14 New York........................................... 63 Fortifications of Old M anila..................................... 15 W alled Canal, Binondo............................................ 64 The Escolta, Manila................................. 15 Nine-inch Honatoria Gun on the Luneta, Manila..... 64 Corregidor Island, Entrance to Mallila Bay.............. 16 Major-General Elwell S. Otis and Staff.................... 65 Typical Philippine Lighthouse................................. 17 Mouth of the Pasig, or Inner Harbor of Manila......... 66 Moro Chieftains in Mindanao................................... 18 Camp of American Troops on Corregidor Island....... 67 Volcano of Mayon, Southern Luzon......................... 19 Stone Piers and Lightlouse, Mouth of Pasig............. 68 Graves of Soldiers Killed at Capture of Manila........ 20 Gateway Through Old Wall, and Drawbridge........... (9 Church of San Augustin, Manila, Showing Eartl- The Luneta, Manila................................................. 6 quake Effects..................................................... 21 Manila Cathedral, with Bell-tower of Old Catledral.. 70 View on Pasig River Above Old Malila.................... 22 Former Wooden Bridge Now Replaced..................... 71 On a Country Road, a Group of Filipin(o You-tlh........ 23 Puente de Espana, or Bridge of Spain........................ 72 Coaster in a Typhoon............................................... 24 Tle Escolta at Eleven O'clock in the Foreoon........ 73 Scene of Desolation in the Wake of a Typlloon........25 Junction of the Escolta and Rosario, Binon(do.......... 74 WXeaving Hemp and Other Fabrics in a Native Shopl(. 26 Chinese Petroleu-veners, Maila.......................... 75 American Troops Clearing a Tlhicket of Insulrgents... 27 Scene on a Tide-water Creek, Bilnolndo.................... 75 Chinese Catholic Shoemakers, Cebu........................ 8 So-called Canal, and Bridge and Slops, BiIno(do...... 76 A Mestiz of the Mile Class................................. 8 estizo Youthl of Wealth........................................ 77 Tagal Servants and Children, Manila....................... 29 Mestiza Belle in Rich Eveninil l)ress of Piua Silk..... 78 Wealthy Filipinos in European Dress...................... 30 Mestiza Flower-girl..................................... 79 A Fam ily of N egritos............................................... 31 Native M ilk-wo an................................................ 79 Negrito Hunters, Father anld Soi............................. 31 San Sebastian Quarter, Manila................................. Natives Spearing Fish............................................ 32 Chinese Peddler in the Interior of Luzo.................. 81 Igorrotes Hunting in Their Forest Jungles............... 33 Rapid Transit in the Chinese Quarter....................... 81 Papuans of New Guinea.......................................... 34 View in San Miguel, Manila.................................... 82 Coquetting with Civilization.................................... 35 Dominican Padre and Pupils, Manilla....................... 83 Tribesmen of the Hill Country, North Luzon........... 35 Mestizo School-teacher............................................. 84 Head-hunting Gaddane and Wife........................... 35 Pumping Station at San Juan del Monte.................. 8.5 American Troops Tenting in a Bannana (rove.......... 36 Cigar-factory Employing Only Women and Girls..... 86 Tagal Hamlet in the Foot-hills of Central Luzon...... 37 Interior of Hemp)-pressilg Establishment, Manila.... 87 River-boat, or Banca............................................ 38 Boats Laden with Produce for Native Market........... 88 Three Philippine Malays......................................... 38 ayside Tienda, or Refreshment-booth................... 89 Company of Filipino Insurgents with Manseis......... 39 Side-street Native Restaurant...................................90 Rafting Bamboo to Manila...................................... 40 Major-General Wesley Merritt.................................. 91 Hauling Water on a Sledge...................................... 41 Major-General Joseph Wheeler...l............................. 91 Christina, Queen-Regent of Spain............................ 42 Naval Constructor R. P. Hobson.............................. 91 Governor-General Basilio Augustin y Davilla........... 42 Cafe and Chocolate Factory, Manila........................ 92 Alfonso XIII., King of Spain.................................. 42 Cigarette-factory of Arroceros, Near Walled City..... 93 Old Church at Malate............................................. 43 The Motionless Figure in the Hot Sun..................... 94 Tagal Families, Manila, in Caromatas................. 44 Execution by the Garrote........................................ 94 Bamboo Raft Loaded with Cocoanuts...................... 45 The Escolta at One O'clock in the Afterloon............ 95 Coasters Built and Manned by Natives..................... 45 Sentry Duty on the Old Wall................................... )96 View on the River Agno.......................................... 46 An Improvised Cock-fight....................................... 96 Tagal Belle and Double-stringed Harp..................... 47 Moving-day in Manila-How Furniture is Handled.. 97 Band-stand and Miniature Luneta in Town of Bay.. 47 Tagal Family Out for an Evening Drive.................. 98 A Street in Tarlac............................................ 48 Filipino Maidens witl Lottery-tickets..................... 99 Filipinas of the Middle Class.................................... 49 Warehouses of Smith, Bell & Co., Manila................. 100 Filipinas, Three in Favorite Squatting Posture........ 49 Full-blooded Native Fruit-girl................................. 101 Houses in the Suburbs of Manila............................. 50 Native Tailor-shop, Manila...................................... 102 Building a Bahay, or Native Hut............................ 51 Tondo Church and Plaza.......................................... 103 Native Women Weaving Pina Cloth......................... 52 A So-called Canal, Manila.................................... 103 Amateur Cock-fighting........................................... 53 Burial Wall in Paco Cemetery, Manila.................... 105 Native Women Hulling Rice.................................. 53 United States Government Offices, Cavite................ 106 Mestiza Girls in a Pina-weaving Establishment........54 Gateway or Entrance Through the Great Wall of Church of San Francisco, Old M anila........................ 55 Cavite............................................................... 107 A Filipino Family Toilet.......................... 56 Pasig River Bathing-place at Quiapo, Manila........... 108 vi ILLUSTRATIONS vii PAGE Lake Boat in General Use ol Laguna (le Bay........... 108 A Lake Country Landscape..................................... 109 A rchbishop of M anila.............................................. 110 Throne-room il Palace of Archbishop, Manila......... 111 Church and Convent of Majaijai.............................. 112 Venerated Shrine, or Chapel, in Cavite.................... 113 Church of San Sebastian, Manila.............................. 114 Native Coachman, Manila........................................ 115 A L ittle F ilipina...................................................... 115 Large Gateway into the Walled City........................ 116 Montojo's Flag-ship When Dewey was Done With It 117 Montojo's Other Flag-ship at the Close of the Battle 118 Old Spanish Prison, Manila.............................. 119 Native Mechanics Carrying a Roof........................... 120 Former Spanisll Barracks on Corregidor Islanl........ 121 E m ilio A guinaldo................................................... 122 Opening of Filipino Congress at Malolos.................. 123 Filipino Peasantry of Interior Luzon........................ 124 Ermita, One Mile South of Old Manila.................... 125 Filipino Celebration of Independence, 1898............... 126 A Fem ale A igo..................................................... 127 Plowing Sugar-lands of Pamlpalgas.......................... 128 Street in San Fernando............................................ 128 A Home of Wealth in Manila................................. 129 PIetty Offenders in the Village Stocks....................... 130 Natives Fishing on Pasig River............................... 131 (Great Fire of Insurgent Origin Destroying Tondllol..... 132 M ajor-General Elwell S. Otis................................... 133 Brigadier-General Frederick Funst on....................... 133 Major-General Arthur MacArtliur........................... 133 Signaling from Tower of Caloocan Chulrch............... 134 Ilawton's Arniun ition-train Drawn by Carabaos..... 135 American Troops Quartered at the Tribunal, Malolos 136 Rear-Admiral Jolhii Crittenden Watson................... 137 Bamboo Intrenclhm ent of Filipinos.......................... 137 The Converted Spanish Gunboat Laguna (le Bay...... 138 Major-General Henry W. Lawtonl............................ 139 Infantry and Battery Oll Outpost Duty..................... 140 Convalescent Hospital at Eriita.............................. 141 Threading a Mountain Road in Central Luzon......... 142 Tobacco Plantation in the Lower Cagayan Valley... 143 Drying-yard in the Sugar District of Pampangas....... 144 Coaches of the Manila and Dagupan Railway........... 145 Field Telegraph Station near Angeles....................... 146 Forest in tile Interior of Mindoro Island.................. 146 Rear View of Nine-inch-gun Battery oil the Luneta.. 147 Reserve Picket Post Near Manila............................. 148 New Cathedral at Iloilo........................................... 149 Harbor and Soutllerll Part of Iloilo.......................... 150 ()On the Beach at Rom blon........................................ 150 Iloilo, Looking South............................................... 151 Working Up Squared Timber into Lumber............... 152 The First Decoration Day in Manila........................ 153 A M ango-tree.......................................................... 154 Major-General MacArtllur and Staff........................ 155 Moro Chieftain and Household, Mindanao................ 156 Independent Moro Chieftain, Warriors, etc.............. 157 Scene in Davao Gulf, Southern Mindanao.....1........... 158 Signal Corps Telegraph Station near Manila............. 159 Port Arthur, Russia's Newly Acquired Stronghold... 159 Mandaya Hamlet in the Interior of Mindanao......... 160 Sugar-mill in Southeast Luzon................................. 161 Filipino Farmer with Caralao and Woodenll l'low....... 162 A M ilk-vender in M anila......................................... 162 A Carabao, the Philippine Beast (f Burlenl l............. 163 Filipino Farmer, Wooden Harrow and C(r arabao....... 163 Street Scene in a Village of Albay............................ 164 Hemp-pressing Establishment, Manila.................... 165 Hong-Kong, China, the British Stronghold.............. 165 Chinese Broker, M anila........................................... 166 Hauling Lumber and Pro(duce.................................. 167 PAGE Carabao and Wheeled Cart Hauling Lumber........... 168 Bunch of Mangoes on Native Stem.......................... 169 Monster Saw-fish of the Western Pacific.................. 170 Mouse-deer of the Philippines................................. 171 Serpent Attacking Humming-bird's Nest................. 171 Samoan Warriors in a Cocoanut Grove.................... 172 Native Village on Guiraras Island.......................... 172 Native of the Caroline Islands................................. 173 German War-ship Taking Possession of the Carolines..................................................... 174 Young Chief on Guamn Island................................... 176 Coral Reef at Low Tide........................................ 177 Samoan Woman in Holiday Attire.......................... 179 Town and H arbor of Apia........................................ 180 Rear-Adm iral Albert K autz..................................... 181 Chief Mataafa, of Samoa........................................ 181 Tattooing in Sa oa.................................................. 182 Bearers Bringing Roast Pig for a Samoan Feast........ 182 Idolatrous Temple of Ancient Hawaii...................... 183 Monument to Capltain Cook................................... 183 H awai ian Surf-rider................................................. 184 Carved Idols of Ancient Hawaiian Temple............... 185 Bronze Statue of Kamellaelha the Great................ 185 H arbor of H ono lulu................................................ 186 Aged Kanaka Woman in Holaku............................. 186 The Pali, at the Head of Nuuanu Valley.................. 187 A Pineapple Orchard........................................... 187 Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu.................................... 188 I)Dovager Queen Ena.......................................... 188 Indigenous Cocoanut Grove.....................................189 0 (1 H awaiian I ol................................................... 189 Father Lyman and Household................................ 190 Home for Aged Hawaiians, Honolulu......................190 Bislhop Museum and Arch l eological Institute........... 191 M asonic Tem ple, Honolulu..................................... 191 Princess Ruth's Palace, or High School.................... 191 Annexation Ceremonies, August 12, 189...................192 Q ueen L iliuokalani.................................................. 193 Group of Hulu-girls at Waikiki............................ 193 ILegislative Building, Honolulu............................. 194 Kawaiahau Native C urch......................................194 Central Union Church, Honolulul...........................195 M ausoleum of K ing Lunalilo................................... 196 WVaikiki Beacl, near Honolulu...................... 196 Group of Hawaiian Flower-venders.........................197 Hawaiian Girls in Holiday Attire............................197 Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu...................................... 198 Queen's Hospital Lane, Honolulu.......................... 198 Leper Settlement on Molokai Island........................199 Miss Cleghorn (Princess Kaiulani)........................... 200 Hawaiian Riding-costume for Women..................... 200 Taro-plant, whence Poi is made............................... 201 The Queen's Beach, Waikiki................................... 202 Native Hawaiian Grass House................................ 202 A Luau, or Native Feast.......................................... 203 View of Central Part of Honolulu............................ 203 Lava Flow Moving Toward the Sea.......................... 204 Hardened Lava Flow............................................... 204 Bridge Over Chasm in Lava.................................... 205 Blow-hole in Hardened Lava Flow......................... 205 So-called Cascade of Hardened Lava....................... 206 Sugar-m ill on Oahu Island....................................... 206 Landing-place on Precipitous Coast......................... 207 Rice-fields on M aui Island....................................... 208 Plantation Railroad Train Loading with Sugar-cane.. 208 Plantation Railroad Through Sugar-cane Field.......208 Major-General John M. Brooke................................209 Old (lory on Moro Castle, January 1, 1899...............210 The Fruit-market, Havana......................................211 Sugar-mill of Small Proprietor................................ 211 Horses Laden for M arket......................................... 212 viii ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS AND PLANS PAGE Avenue of Royal Palms, Havana............................. 212 General Calixto Garcia............................................. 213 General M aximo Gomez.......................................... 213 Captain-General Valeriano Weyle........................... 213 Captain-General Castellanos Leaving Havana.......... 214 Rear-Admiral William T. Sampson........................ 215 Major-General William R. Shafter........................... 215 Rear-Admiral Winfield S. Schley............................ 215 Hoisting the Stars and Stripes on the Palace, Havana 216 General Miles and Staff Visiting General Wheeler... 217 Wreck of the Maine in Havana Harbor................... 218 Corridor in Spanish Casino...................................... 219 Small Sailing-craft, Havana..................................... 219 La Fuerza, the Oldest Building in Havana............... 219 Barred Window of Dwelling.................................... 220 Street in Outlying Ward of Havana......................... 220 Captain-General Ramon Blanco............................... 221 General Fitzhugh Lee.......................................... 221 Admiral Pascual de Cervera y Topete....................... 221 El M oro, Havana Harbor......................................... 222 The Prado, H avana.................................................. 223 High Altar of San Domingo Cathedral, Surmounting Alleged Remains of Columbus........................... 224 One Style of Delivery-wagon, Havana.................... 225 Banana-vender, H avana.......................................... 225 City and Bay of Matanzas................................... 226 Entrance to the Plaza, Cienfuegos........................... 227 Residence on Outskirts of Matanzas......................... 227 Harbor and City of Santiago................................... 228 Santiago's M oro Castle............................................. 228 Country Villa near Matanzas............................... 229 On the Road to Bellamar Caves................................ 229 A Cuban Sugar-central............................................ 230 Field of Tobacco in the Vuelta Abajo...................... 230 Breaking Sugar-land with Oxen and WVooden Plow.. 231 Small Farmer's Homestead in Santa Clara Province. 231 PAGE Customary Mode of Cuban Transportatio............... 232 Brigadier-General Leonard Wood............................ 232 Red Cross N urses..................................................... 233 A Returned Family of Reconcentrados.................... 233 Clara Barton............................................... 234 Last Detachment of Spanish Soldiers Embarking at C ienfuegos......................................................... 235 A V olante............................................................... 236 Cuban Laborers Repairing Road............................... 236 H avana Cathedral................................................... 237 Cabin Cubans of the Interior.................................... 237 Mail-wagon, etc., in Reorganized Postal Service...... 238 Future Factors in Cuba's Race Problem................... 238 Country School Near Ponce..................................... 239 Porto Rican Flower-girl on Pony............................. 240 Statue of Columbus on the Plaza, San Juan.............. 240 WVagon and Blacksmith Shop Near Coamo............... 241 The Point, San Juan............................................... 242 Typical Farm-house in Porto Rico............................ 243 Coffee-drying Y ard.................................................. 244 Fruit-vender from the Country................................ 244 Native Porto Rican Girls at Home........................... 245 H otel at A ybonito................................................... 245 Funeral Procession in Ponce.................................... 246 Planter and Family, Hurricane Sufferers.................. 247 Customary Method of Delivering Milk.................... 248 On the Way to Market............................................ 249 Coaxing a Young Porto Rican................................249 Military Barracks in San Juan................................. 250 Principal Business Street, San Juan.......................... 251 Court-house, San Juan............................................. 252 Mendez Vigo Street, Mayaguez................................ 253 New Theater Building, Mayaguez............................ 254 A Porto Rico Hoky-poky Man................................. 254 A Cattle-farm in Porto Rico.................................... 255 M eat-delivery W agon.............................................. 256 MAPS AND PLANS PA(GE Philippine Islands, Coast of China, etc.-Folding Map, Large Size (Printed in Colors)...End of Volume Cuba, Southern Florida, Etc.-Folding Map, Large Size (Printed in Colors)....................End of Volume Porto Rico (In Colors)............................End of Volume Havana, Showing Harbor. Prado, etc.....End of Volume Manila Bay, with Dewey's Line of Advance............. 67 PA(IE Old and New Manila, Showing the Various Quarters or Suburbs, Piers, Railway, Bridges, etc............. 104 Guam Island and Other Ladrones............................ 175 W ake Islan d........................................................... 178 H aw aiian Islands..................................................... 184 Outline Map Showing Relatiol of Porto Rico to Other West India Islands................................... 241 i OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND which guided her to the last was strangely favored by fortuitous circumstances. Manila lay quite off the world's great higlhway of travel. Even the ubiquito)ls ("gole-trotter" gave it the cold shoulder, not onl as being to one side fronl the regular route which:~:! 11 runs froml Singapore, 1by way of Hong-Kong, to Shlianglai or Jalpan, ilut also because the choppy C(hina sea is the most unlileasant corner of the Pacific,:~: w nlla] p~a c His dress is that of th Dominican college of San European influe: Juan de Letran, with a particularly fine equipment, including certain museums, is attended only by native youth. There are several preparatory and grammar schools for boys and young men, one of the best being the "Ateneo Municipal" of the Jesuits, with an enrollment of several hundred. It has a noteworthy natural history collection, and another of all sorts of objects illustrating the life and manners of a score or so of the Philippine peoples. Its chapel, finished in the magnificent native woods,. some of tlhem tunknown as yet to commerce, furnishes the visitor a most pleased surprise in its elab)orate and excellent carvings, including a beautifully executed image of the Virgin, all of it the work of Filipinos. Co-edlucation is not in vogue in Manila. A- girl with aspirations above a grammar-school must either stifle them or insist upon permission to go abroad. Like all the foregoing institutions, the Manila ol)servatory, conducted 1y Jslnit fathers,aud lately,if not now, unider the sn uferitenldency of Father Boyle, a Dubin Irishlan. is in the walled city. It is situated ini dsway of, and:T0BthI close lehind, the wal ll toward the hbay. Duriing more than thi rty years its contributions to science in nmeteorolegical, co| n Iaiagnetic, earthquake and astrolnollical dnat hasve justly given it world-wide re nown. i dic; t:e 1 oThe visitor finds in it almost nearne sno end of baromneters theri! ~:i!:m tometers, rain-gages, windl gages and such like weather apparatus, most of it selfregistering, together with a 20-inch American telescope, whose place of honor is a luildingi by itself; a tower built of solid masonry twhenty feet square, wholly disconnected with any other structure, ancd on the top scores of most delicate instruments arranged for detecting, mcasuring and recording earthquake phlenomena, down to low and far distant subterra-m nean nintterings; and wires and electric connections in OL TEACHER abundance, to set bells ringmiddle class wherever n ces are strong kine and tickers going at tmhe slightest disturbance. The educateo natives here employed manipulate most of the apparatus with the ease and precision of college professors, and their computations seldom require correction by the fathers. The observatory's typhoon-signal service is a boon to humanity. Eight different signals are employed,. to indicate the various degrees of storm intensity, nearness or danger. They are run up on a high flag [C n WA TER WORKS AND CIGAR- FA C TORIES 85 staff at the mouth of tile P'asig, in pllain sigllt from lboth the outer and the inner harbors; at night colored lanterns are used. As the haze thickens and the low, wzhite-edged clouds co-me scudding in from the direction of tl-he sea, a crier is sent through thle streets, a native swingifng a (lecoratedl caine as a l)adge of flunction, who solemnly intones hlis warnings of thle closeat-liand destroyer. MIeanwlhile to all the interior points that can hle reached, to Iloilo, Cebu, and other ports between, and to 1Hong-Kong, similar warnings have ibeen flashled by telegraph. Orphlan asylums and( ch]ildren's homes are among tlhe charitable institutions of the city, ranking next:after the two hospitals. The lepers' hospital-San Lazaro —is fairly inl the country, being i-nore than a mile north of Santa Cruz. It was founded in 1578, b)y two Awealth-y and )ioIus colonists, moved with pity for a ship-load of lepers wlhom the \Iikado of Japan thad sent to Mlanila, with a cruelly sarcastic mnessage, in retaliation for the efforts that had been making to introduce Christianity among the Japanese. The description given by a correspondent of "Harper's Weekly," who pIenetrated the loathsome precincts of San Lazaro, in December, 1898, when its patients ninnl)ered sixty-one men and thirty-seven girls and womren, Nwas a painful one. At that transition period th:leir former physicians and nurses had virtually alandloned them. I)irectly north of Quiapo is the penitentiary and city jail building, in shlape like a. half star. After due investigation the American officer in charge of such nlatters release(d about eight hundred prisoners, in the first few weeks, as either having never heen tried or never sentenced (though many of them had been incarcerated for years), or else as ]having been condemned on insufficient or trlulmed-up evidence. Thlle mint for striking small coins is in the walled city. Of recent construction and small capacity, its operations hlave never been important, lbut it counted in the $20,000,000 that we paid for the Phlilippines. WVATERWVORKS AND CIGAR-FACTORIES T lIIE most credital.le of Mlanila's lnpublic works is its w-ater-sul)ply systen, a noble monument not *of administrative managemllent, )lnt of tlle private hIeneficence of two of tlhe late Spamisll governors of AManila province, named ('arriedo (andl Moriones. Tihe formiier, in his will, left the town a suml of money for this express )uirlpose, A-while thle second, years later, had the work carried ouit, wlieii no one,else tholiughl t of troublling alJout it. 'Fite water comes fronm slrings high p1) iin thle hills )aclk of Santolan, whicll is eight -.ori nine imiles east of Manila, on tIhe Mariquina (or San M'ateo) river, a brancli of the Pasig. It is collected in a reservoir at San Juarn del Monte,;s5o0e six mliles (due east. {)f Blinondo, and thence PUMPING-STATION AT collveyed to the city in Photographed v pipl)es; and tliollgh after.a rain tlhe tlousan(t s of h1lydrnits deliver it a little roil(ed say one fourth as dlirty as tlne water that ('incinnati and St. Loutiis fhave grown stnout ll)On it is.always hlealtlhfutl andl refreshing. To the An-erieans in Manila the hydranits andl the numlerous publlic foulLtailns tlhe latter's flow subllject to free use by all-largely offset the lack of a sewer system worthy the name, and other discomforts in living. AMliles upon miles of the big wafer-mains could tell a queer story, one full of warning against unconsidered1 investments and too sanguine calculations in a sixteentlh-century land like this. These great iron MANILA WATERWORKS RESERVOIR, SAN JUAN DEL MONTE when the First Nebraska were holding the breastworks piIpes were originally imported by an enthusiastic Australian, who conceived tile idea of revolutionizing the sugar business of Luzon. lie establishe'd a central sugar-factory and laid down his pipes, at great expense, for miles, for thle conveyance of cane-juice to his boilers. Everything was there, factory, engine, 86 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND improved machinery, vacuum-pans, and what not else; everything except the sugar plantations, which somehow would not materialize. IIis money was lost, but his pipes remained to bring water and health to Manila's cholera-threatened thousands. The natives soon gave up the use of drinking-water from the Pasig, and cholera almost disappeared. The last ouLbreak of it was in 1889. When Manila capitulated Among the interesting sights in Manila is one of the mammoth cigar-factories in full operation, say the Tabacallera, which seldom works less than 4,000 hands and is largely owned in IParis, or the Insular, working 2,000 and upward. At least 40,000 natives, chiefly women and children, find employment in this industry, at wages averaging fifteen to eighteen cents a day. One concern is credited with a capacity of CIGAR-FACTORY IN MANILA EMPLOYING ONLY WOMEN AND GIRLS The little squares or diamonds in the immense windows have ground concha-shells in lieu of glass to the Americans, the waterworks at San Juan del 38,000,000 cigarettes a year, and another, in normal Monte had for ten weeks been in possession of the times, with exporting one and a half million cigars a insurgents. Fine diplomacy upon General Merritt's month. The work-people in these establishments are part induced Aguinjldo to turn them over to him; characterized by American visitors as quiet, diligent but, as we shall see, it was not till after the Filipino- and skillful. Except as to the product of about four American war began, in February, 1899, that General principal factories, insu.ceient care in sorting and Otis obtained full control of the remoter part of the handling is much complained of in foreign markets, system, out to and beyond Santolan. and in particular the make of many Clhinese factories NATIVE AND OTHER MARKETS 87 and of natives as a home industry is very infk Manila cigars are used almost exclusively in C Japan and India; many millions more go each ye Europe and Australia, but not many to the U] States. In 1896 the Philippines exported almosi hundred millions of cigars, but since then the turbed state of the country has occasioned a heavy fall- ing off. The "home market" consump)tion is believed to equal the exports. The natives favor cigarettes almost entirely, paying two cents for a package of thirty, or possibly double tliat if they are "fluash." Ruling prices for almost the best quality of cigars in Manila range from $1.80 to $2.50 a hundred. The cheroots, made large at one end and small at the other, come cheaper, while the stogies palmeed off on the Jack Tars in the harbor cost $3 to $5 a thousand. What's in a name amounts to very considerable with thle users of the weed the world over, and while millions of so-called Havana cigars are sold in Manila, it is said all are really made of Philippine leaf. To the c stands scattered all over Manila was formerly mitted the function of selling postage-stamps fo government; the pibllic could not purchase stamr the post-oflice at all! To most visitors the great hemp-presses of Nicolas come next in interest after the cigar-fact( Aside from tile latter, however, the city has no ufacturing industries of commanding import] though the showing includes a sugar-refinery or cotton-mills, steam flour and saw mills, some ropefactories, one brewery, ice-making and brick-making plants, etc. One great drawback to the development of manufactures is the high price of coal, of which Manila now consumes 80,000 tons annually, practically all of it brought 1,800 miles from Australia INTERIOR OF HEMP-PRESSING ESTABLISHMENT, MANILA igar- or from Japan. The thousands of vehicles rolling corn- through the Manila streets mean, of course, a vast r the aggregate outlay of labor in building them, and here ps at the skill of native artisans shows to advantage; but large carriage-factories filled in all departments with San costly machinery, such as the American public are Dries. familiar with, do not exist here, and the case is much man- the same as regards the pianos, the Manila-made bamance, boo organs, harps, etc.,which have converted the Philtwo, ippines into one of the most tuneful lands on earth. NATIVE AND OTHER MARKETS M ANILA'S principal market is situated near one of the upper bridges, above Binondo and the walled city. It is always stocked with flowers in great profusion, as also fruits of many varieties. Poultry is abundant, more so than meats. "All meat must be eaten the same day it is killed, since here in the tropics ice fails to preserve fish, flesh or fowl. As a result, while the beef and mutton are killed in the early morning, just before the market opens, chickens and game are sold alive. From six o'clock till ten the natives and Chinese cooks from many families may be seen bargaining for the day's supply among the nest of stalls in the big market. After filling their baskets, numbers of them mount the little tramcar for the return trip, and proceed to pluck the feathers off the live birds as they jog along on the front or rear platform. Arrived home, the poor creatures, featherless and suffering keenly, are pegged down to the floor of the kitchen to await their fate; and when the creaking of the front gate announces 88 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND the return of the master, it is then time enough to wring the necks of the unfortunates and shove them into the boiling-pot or roasting-pan that seems. but to accentuate a certain touglhness which fresh-killed meat possesses." ["Yesterdays in tile Pllilippines."` In the big market above mentioned the ntmutton and potatoes have all coiie from ('lina or Japan, the whlleat and flour mlostly frown California, the al)l)lesextraordinary luxuries tllhat ring ten cents apliece -from Iionrg-l\ong. Tlle staple food, rice, used by rich and poor alike, mlay be either home-grown or on horse and buffalo meat, the Chinese population on cats and dogs. There was great scarcity, too, after the Filipino-Anlerican war broke out in Fel)ruary, 1899, supl)lies having to be brought fromn tlong-Kong and otlher foreign ports, with the result, as was stated, that meat sold as high at one timne as a dollar a poundl and eggs ten cents al)iece. The hIigli prices that ruled for 1l ianvy months occasioned general lnurmuring. Still more picturesqule and interesting-like the French as colmpared with the other mlarkets in New Orleans ---are the native markets, of which a nulmber BOATS LADEN WITH COUNTRY PRODUCE FOR A NATIVE MARKET imported from Singapore. Along witlh rice in some form native fruits are always serve(l at dinner, an(l in families comfortally well off chicken also. BIeef is less esteemed and vastly less used than with us, as it possesses an unpleasant flavor from a certain native growth on which the steers are nearly always fattened. However, a supply of beef would have lbeen most welcome in Manila any timhe between July l()th and August 13th, 1898, when D)ewey by sea and Aguinaldo on land had the city invested, and the inhal)itants as well as the Spanish troopls were forced to live are found in (lifferent sections of thle city. Among the strange prodlnets disi)layed are l)a1llmoo-sticks in long lengtlls for different mechlanical puirposes, and slhort lengths for prol)agating tlhis wvon(lrously iusefiul plant by sli)ps; monkev-nuts, for pony-fod(ler, pink andl very inferior Mlanila plotatoes, great heaps of cocoanuts, luscious mangoes, linanas, guallvas, etc., wild pepl)ers, pineapples, ginger, a variety of saps for l)olishling woods, l)earls of unknown origin, dita-l)ark for malaria, and other medicinal lherbs an(d roots, andl no end of briguht flowers, alnong whicll innullneral)le NATIVE AND OTHER MARKETS 89 ' orchids land tile sweet b]losso(lls of tile ilang-ilang tree are especially delightful. Edhile birds'-nests of inferior grades —the better being exported to Clinaattract tle (Chinese customers, a certain higll-lpriced variety of water-becetles tile ilestizoes, and sea-slugs, amrong other repulsive-looking thlings, tlle Tagals. Wlen mllonkey fleshl is offered it is as a clre for skin disoirdlers, tlhougll foreigners occalsionaOlly buy it for food alnd con sider it not uni)alatablle. Only occasionally are locusts in tle marlket, but when they are cables are made, while tle delicate fibers are worked upl into cigar-cases and hats, or even a coarse cloth. But nothing concerns the Filipino's contentment so nmuch as one special article that is neither edible nor potal)le-betel, which is not only sold in the markets, but in twelve hundred shops throughout the city, and in every tienda, or wayside booth, that springs Iup. Betel is a slice of betelnut wrapped in a buyo, or bletel-peppler, leaf covered witli a lime made from oyster-shells. ('hewed it is a not unhealthful sto i:r:: i 1. WAYSIDE TIENDA, OR REFRESHMENT-BOOTH, OF THE CHEAPEST STYLE Near an American camp, or wherever else an honest penny may be turned, tiendas spring up as if by magic thle lower orders fairly scr)amblle for thetm. Tluba, tlhe frTeshly gatllered s5l1) of tlhe coco;nllt-palm, is ill as stead(y (detl and as m ilkl witll ns; if tIle dealeIr las any left over he cian lae it i:ito cocoa wine. In tlie line of curios one sees stuff(ed bats and lizards and snakeskin canes. L]arge quantities of the Ihejuco, or b)ush-rope, coiled into con(venient b)lundles, are sold. This is a species of rattan growing to a len'gth of three hlnd(lred( f(eet or l(o)ret, and is ulsed( on all occasions when with us twine or cordage would be )broulght into requisition. F'roitt its stouter growthis rafts and mliacllic ill small alnoulnts, and a peculiarly bracing stimulus in larger ones, although its inordinate use mlIeais dclliriuml and lperllal s death. In an emergency tlhe natives will work all day on a light breakfast, if tleir betel supply holds out; lbut the betel habit thrives amongr all of tlem, both sexes, with no more real reason for it tlian an American gum-chewing girl can give for hers. To foreigners no other common sight is more disgusting than a woman or pretty girl with blood-red saliva drooling over lips and chin, wliile lier jaws keep working on0 a l)it of betel. 90 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND ments; and in half an hour everything is ready, the improvised counter displaying,. besides vegetables and fruit, cigars, cocoanuts, lengths of sugar-cane, green corn, riceballs, betel, and other tempting delicacies, while the stallkeeper, squatting upon her heels in the shadiest corner, chews away at her betel, yet, keeping her eyes very wide The open for every chance to tesade t iof tiplg make a penny sale. The wayside native restaurant found in every part of the city is alhnost as primitive. Its starI puies are rice and fruit, a little meat, and sone drinks of the nature of root-beer, and for two cents the not overpartictnlar appetite of the native can be abunndantly satisfied. To such restaurants the operatives of the cigar-factories flock at noon by thousands. As for the little shops where "vino" and other intoxicants are sold, not to mention a few aristocratic tippling-places in Binondo, they do not readily adminit of computation. The open-handedness of the American soldiery had the sad effect of multiplying these places. A SIDE-STREET NATIVE RESTAURANT Along the roadside in all the suburbs one or more tiendas appear every little distance. On the eve of a fiesta or other great occasion hundreds more suddenly spring up and fairly line the main avenues of travel. A few bamboo poles and some matting, with a few minutes' labor, fully meet the architectural require NEWSPAPERS AND FIESTAS EFORE the American era Manila had been supporting two morning and four evening dailies, all printed in Spanish and with news, several weeks old, clipped bodily from foreign newspapers, though a few brief cablegrams from IHong-Kong preceded Dewey's arrival, and it was a great innovation. The versatility of the boy in blue speedily showed itself in bringing out six English papers, which furnished the news weekly. Military information and "personal mention" naturally had great prominence in them. They were the ventures of enlisted men, though the work on them was done by natives. In July, 1899, the Dominican monks began the publication of a sheet called "La Libertas," for the purpose of defending the brotherhood, thus displaying characteristic shrewdness in adapting themselves to changed conditions. About the same time the Archbishop so far forgot himself as to reassume his old role of press censor and threaten to excommunicate the owners of Spanish newspapers printing any announcement of Protestant or Masonic meetings, whereupon an American paper warned him that he ran the risk of being bundled out of the island, like any other disturber of the peace, should he incite religious animosity. His (Grace seems to have presumed overmuch on his standing with the military governor, whose almost daily counselor he is said to have been for months. A Tagalog journal was once published in the Philippines, though Aguinaldo's itinerant organ was from "state considerations" issued in Spanish. A close observer years ago advanced the opinion that a cheap paper in the native language might be made very successful, the Tagals being eager readers of everything that offers in their own language, from details of chivalry down to quack advertisements. lie thought it should contain history, travels and explanations of common natural phenomena, discoveries and inventions, with a liberal proportion of stories, riddles, poems, and advice on medical and agricultural subjects. Possibly the wide-awake boy is now learning NEWSPAPERS AND FIESTAS 92 the case on a country newspaper in America who will develop this suggestion, and prove that even in the Far East the pen is mightier than the sword. Infantile as the:Manila mind is in respect to the mental palulam and pleasure known to the AngloSaxon as news, it has been exercised to robustness on holidays, fiestas, cock-fights and other amusements. It has had to recognize ninety-nine holidays a year, besides Sundays, or one hundred and fifty-one in all; and, thoutgh no one person ever observed so many as this, it is no wonder the energetic Yankee and his British cousin write home that here is a land where, what with the heat and holidays, laziness becomes second nature, a place wl-ere it is always afternoon, or avouch that the tide almost forgets to come in sometimes, and the dogs running the streets hardlytake the trouble to bark when hit by a stone or prodded with a bayonet. The patron saint of all Manila is St. Francis the Tearful, a certain image of whomn once wept copiously for three hours when Manila was in danger, and whlose festal day is indeed a high (lay, whereon the Archbishop and a tiny regiment of helpers in'full canon loved to prolong his fiesta from Sunday to Sunday whenever he could. "Almost all the processions,' writes Wallace Cumming in the Century Magazine, "took place at night, and the effect was most picturesque. There would be a line of marchers, men, woien and children, walking in single file on each side of the street, every one with a lighted candle in his hand. At intervals, in the middle of the road, woulld come inmRages of the Savior, the Virgin anid the sainsts, borne upon the shltoulders of from twelve to thirty m ren, andad. surrounded by MAJOR-GENERAL WEnSLEY MERRITT priests, witls a band of music in advance. Some of the images were covered with diamonds and other prec ious stones said to be enormouislv valuable. In these cases there was always a guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets about tlye [OSEPE WEEELER image. Often there would be. thousand s of people walking in these processions, and all the while it was moving tens of theousands of rockets and bo nbs would be fired. These rockets and lbombs are home-made. The rockets consist only of a joint of bamboo filled with lpowdler, exploding with a great noise, but little light. The bombs are simply a handful of powder tightly wrapped with heinp. They cost a mere trifle, but make a great noise, and no fiesta is eomilete without plenty of them. The most curious procession is participated in only by natives and the poorer mnestizoes. It takes place, if I remember rightly, during Holy Week, and is a high solemnity. Every one walking in the procession is robed in his grave-clothes. The garment is a long, loose gray robe with a hood, and it comes to the ground. The effect is very strange, and as the people go they repeat continually, 'Santa Maria, Madre de Dios, ora pro nobis!' It may seem MAJOR-GENERAL J ev idence at cession i which solirthe cathedral over in the waalled t it y tthe beginning a nd tefiending NAVAL CONSTRUCTOR RICHMOND P. HOBSON On duty in the Far East in 1899 hm t for the iimens ce procession in which soldiers, civilians and dignitaries of all grades formerly took part. F ach pueblo also has a tutelary saint of its own,.and on that saint's day the whole populace give themselves over, as on all the great holidays of the churcli, to music, coek-fihting, processions and fireworks. In Spanish times the native, to whom these occasions came as the sole relief from a lot of dreary toil, 92 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND CAFE AND CHOCOLATE-FACTORY IN BINONDO, MANILA strange that grave-clothes are lprovided l efore tlhey are needed; uti in Man ila thley are considered a pri lle necessity, and every native oIns tliese clotles, even if he is hare of all others." Since the Americans came the spirit seems already fading out of these ancient anniversaries, and likely enou(il Washingiton's Birthldav, lIomrth of.July and Labor i)ay will outshinle them all eventually. ()f course, there will le special secular holidays from time to time, more of thlel than ever, and occasionally rivaling or surpassing the pageantry of tlle fiesta week in January, 1895, when the I:oval Exl)osition of tle Philippines was opelned with an acddress by CaptainCeneral B-1anco: but tlhe )boy king of Spain will not live long enough to see his birthday celeb)rated again I)y eiglht or nine million sul)jects in tile Far East. Iiappily, in the Philippines, as the world over, all lhmanity may meet on commilon gronnd in keepingl (Christmlas, antl et tile llidnight mtiass in tlie bigr catlIe(-iral, withl its long lreludel of organ nmusic and orcliestrlal accomplaniilents of polkas, jigs andl mlinIets, wlile everyhlody lprolenlades around tlhe great buildlig talking, siiling ndl lowing, caniot but seem in str'ange settingr to tlhe American. OPtERAS AND GARROTINGS M ANILA, wllen itself, goes wAild over tlhe occasional visits of foreign opera troupes, minstrel shows, and the like, xwhich always receive a welcome equaling what the circus gets froni the small boy in Anmerica, and are sure to carry away bags of money. AWhen they steam a\way to lfonl-K1ong or Singapore the city falls contendedly back on hllne talent, and even with it the theater often hlas a full house. Theater etiquette is far from rigid. Smoking is indulged at pleasure,and during tile intermissions anybody who chooses may wander albout liehind the scenes, while the drop-curtain is as likely as not to be covered with advertiseienets-nnconscionable claims for tliis or that make of pills, hats or carriages. On one point tlhe Imanagement's care is nnrelaxing, and that is in guarding against fire. In tlie dry season it is a cuistoilary tling to see two firemlen stationed in front of tlie main entrance, witlh lhose in lhand ready to (lrown out the first dangerols spark. Tie nlative theaters go on albout tlle same the year round. Tlhey are ilnroofed, )balmbloo-fenced. and rulstic-seated str-uctlres liavin g at tile further end from( tlie entrance a covered stage on whicli dlark-skillnned performers in native costumes of flyiinl sliiit-tails l)ove excitedly ab!out, yet spealing their pieces at second-hlandl to thie prompter. They are l)aying institutions, notwitllstanding a ticket sells at only two, three, or at most five cents. OPERAS AND GARROTINGS9 93 The spring regLattaI a fotraer gteat evetit, has heeti intermitted since 1897. It took ptlace on the Pasig1, and was honored liv the atto uage of the (Governor6 nerlen, whlo, atteilded Ity his fainill, oficial as well as personla 1, wits aecustoniedI to review~ It r his exclitisitely heautititul seot at Mhalacanaii. _A_ ulle (and a., Ito] lf furthier east, the pony-ra-ces of the hilgh-toned EngI i']Sli jol]ek y chili wctee won-]t to lomle off, inl arh onl the citilt) 5 spcioms leased groun11ds, with a regular ring,anr( luobe o'randlstaudi, i the silitirli of ~Santa MAesaIl bnt thty, too, heave falleni into terpn,oiay (lesnletulde, ande( 10 th i~a cxtent cutrtaile(] occasioni for the ittorinate becttliiu tha t, forms thle Tagal 's oue utterly un1conltrolled. vice. As for hitli-fighigta(I na pastihme niever recally took root in the Philippines. of lpeop~le 110(1 been assembling for some tim-e, and the gnrssurronndinig tite raised platfortn on which the execution wAas to take place had as mutch as they could dlo, Ito keel) it b~ack. People wvere there onl foot and tn carriai(ycs, all classes of bothi sexes, young and old, atravred 'in their Stunday lbest. The garrote may Ite brieilv (described as a collar of brass or iron, its front piece op)ening onl a bfinge, and h)alt of its btack- piece capable of befitig thrust forward uttder the itmpulse of a big screwA that works through the upright post to wit 1(11 the victim, wvithl his neeck insidle the tactal collar, h~as been fastened-. Th-e screw tn question is op~erated on the same lprin~ciple as tn an ordinary letter-]ress Whien all was ready the execntioner wvonld give the screw~,-handle a complete turn,.~~~> ~ ~ ~ 9 ~~~~ 4~ CIGARETTE-FACTORY OF ARROCEROS, ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE PASIG RIVER, NEAR THE WALLED CITY Thie exectition of criminals itndler Spanish law was by garroting it) public. itesta-lovitug Manila made the tuost of stich occasions, thoitsands npon thonsands turning out to see a j)oori \-rctclt die. The fatal pr'ocession would move fro-mtti te jail about sunrisecavalry, Itriests on -foot or in carriages, a functionary wcaring an a lriot and carrying the sacredl banner of the cbnrcih emblroideredi in black and gTold, the prisonofficials, attd in an open. caromata wvithin- a marching square of soldiery the cotidemned tian, with a priest seated on each side exhorting or comforting him; thenr the executioner, walking by hhnself, and finally some more, infantry with fixed bayonets. A crowd attd the moving hack piece would be pushed forward against the victim's spine, at the base of the neck, with such force as to snap the sp~inal cord and produce instantaneous (heath. The more finished itistriuments had a stoutt pitt in the back lpiece to pierce the spine, and cattse death without crushing the corpse so mnch. The Mlanila executioners were always pardoned critnhitals, holding their lives on condition of breaking the necks of others, and they were better paid than fortytune teachers out of every fifty that were carried by the IDeparttnent of Education. The platform scenes were thoroughly dratnatie. The little company of priests would all asce~id the 194 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND -::: -: -:::::.. —:-:i:-::-i-: —l —::i-l::Iri:l ill_::: -.:-:-i.:::a:-":i:- -- it i:~ —::..-.-:_1:: I --—.. i-;ii:-: —: ---:::::_l —Ill-ii-:- i-i::lii —i:ii::i: —.,; —l:l-l'il —i;il-i- -I ---::,I:~P* *: i: s: "THE MOTIONLESS FIGURE WAS LEFT IN THE HOT SUN TILL NOON" platform in advance of the condemned man, the *embroidered banner-bearer standing paces off from the head of the steps up which the latter was to be borne from the cart; for could the wretch but touch the sacred elmblem, immemorial usage fixed imprisonment for life as all that could b)e inflicted on him. Fastened in the seat attached to the post, and incapable of resistance, the victiln beheld the white cloak thrown over his shoulders, and a rope tied around his waist. A white hood was drawn over his face, and the collar closed around his neck. "Then," says Stevens, describing a garroting he saw on the fourth of July, 1895, "while two priests, with uncovered heads, held their crucifixes up b)efore him, and sprinkled holy-water over the hood and long white deathrobes, the chief prison official waved his sword, the executioner gave the big screw-handle a sudden twist till his arms crossed, and witloult a motion of any sort, except a slight forward movement of the two bare feet, the condemned man had solved the great problem. The doctor tarried a few moments on the scaffold, tle plriests read several prayers and shook holy-water over the imlmovable white-robed figure wedded to the post, and then, after one of the acolytes had nearly set fire to the flowing gown of the head padre with a long candle, every one descended. The remnants of the procession returned'to the prison, the troops stationed themselves in a large hollow square around the scaffold, and the white, motionless figure locked to a post was left in the hot sun till noon, set out against the blue background of sky and clouds. The crowd dispersed, the young girls chatting and joking with each other as they moved away, the curious satisfied, and the bamboo-trees lilting their heads at leisure.'" Unspeakably horrider were the public shootings, at sunrise, of captured insurgents on the sea-wall of EXECUTION BY THE GARROTE THE SPORT OF COCK-FIGHTING 95 the beautiful Luneta, while the jammed thousands of spectators craned their necks to see, the bands played their sweetest, and like tigresses lapping blood bejew-.eled Spanish ladies stood up in their carriages and waved their handkerchiefs in a rapture of triumplnlh, in honor of Old Castile. But why go over thle revolting story in detail? The blood most perfidiously shed there of "the Tagal mI-artyr," I)r. Jose Rlizal, a native graduate of the - niversity of MIanila, and a rman of distiigulished attainments in literature and science, with no crime to ansNwer for exceplt the heaven-gifted one of hating the sanctimonious extortion and cruel injustice from which his helpless people were suffering, won for the insurgent cause hosts of new friends, and some believe sealed on that December morning, in 1896, the death-warrant of Spanish rule, whether with or without Dewey in the later account. His widow, a talented young Irishwoman of heroic mold, who had asked and received permission to marry hini four hours before, at once became another Joan of Arc anmong the insurgents. In June, 1899, she was alppointed a teacher lnder the Americans. TIlE SPORT OF COCK-FIGHTING CO('-I IItTIN(G, w-lhence thle Sl)anishl a(dlinistration (derived a sinug revenlue, is no longer a license(d splort, and ratller skulks whllere it lused to parade. The galleras, or cock-lpits, inl and al)out Manila once counted upl) over a hundll(red in numbler, some of thel capablle of holding from eight to ten thousand people each. All are found in cheaply built bamboo inclosures, withi tlhatched roofs sewed on,above, the better alppointed ones op)en at the sides, and furnished with tier upon: tier of rude seats surround-; ing the sawdust ring in the center. T-ie cockin'g-mai ll/| in SpI-)anish tiles canle off every Sunday afternoon aand commnonly on Thllursdays also. lhe laws I Cor ulating them had( a humn- dred clauses and were verv i _" 'strict. IEach gallera was farmled out by the govern-.. muent, the licensee nearlyl always being sonme thrif'ty ~Chinamran who, b)esides his money, possessed influience -in the proper quarter. On the outside native women.crowde(l close up to the entrance, but did not go in.IThey were there to sell their dark and greasy ed- THE I This photograph w: ibles, and did a land-office business at it. From within came the frequent shouts.and applause, but quarreling was of the rarest. Clheating in betting is practically unknown at a cock-fight,:and under the prevailing intensity of the hour would be sure to cost the offender his life. AWhen the show was over, the successful betters, some of them literally -weighed down with their earnings in Mexican silver dollars, wmould go off in triumpl h in their own or hired caromlltas, -whlile thle losers footed it home through the dust, not in the least crestfallen, but day-dreaming still of filtuire fortutilles to be won in the same arena. T'I'loulll the miaxinilll stake permlitted by law was only $5,. it is on record that $100,000 have changed h]aiids as the result of a single main. The possessor of a victorious cock lived over again the pride and t I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~: il, 41".~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ESCOLTA AT ONE O'CLOCK IN THE AFTERNOON as taken in the cool season, when the siesta is less indulged elation of a ninner at the Olympian games, and one such bird is knovwn to have sold for $2,000. Whether the Spaniard learned cock-fighting from the Tagal, or the Tagal from the Spaniard, is a mooted question. Each indulged in it with the greatest abandon, but the Spaniard went about it with rather more formality. "Give him his own way," 96 96 ~~~~OUR PHILIPPINE W'ONDERLAND observes Cutcliffe Hyn-e in the Bufl'alo News, "and hie wvill. grease the head of hiis hoglitlin g-cocktope Veiut the (}) p(Sin11g fowl getting at o~rip, or hie will cheerfully 1)01so1 its Spurs, or will. even- 1r1) them with garlic, III the piouls hlope, of r~aising a, swelliglo whierever they scratch. In the comtest that I witriessed onc Sundafiy the precantionary operatiolls to prevent such knavery wvere conductedi with gravity and( care. One mankl took each f owl in t-urn bIy legs an d breast. Another held its lower jaw betwveen his tlmniuh and first tinger. Another, the unupire, sponged its head and neck carefulily over, first with SENTRY DUTY OT alcohol awld then with The double parapet here shown is on water, and] then dried it most delicately with a fair white towel. Meanwhille the d]in in the place increasedl. A small pit, it had rooni for three hund~red peolple, bit six hundred had made uptermisto gti, adwere dam g so. rphe army was larg-ely represenited in the audience, and so was cigarette smnoke, and likewise children. The two semicireles of o-reen seats clo)se upe to the pit were occupied by five senors, who, one could see, felt N I i ea thenmselves to b)e thme envv of all lbehoiblei s. / ~~Suddlenly the door to the street was shut, auni the( husiness of' the.I-n)rning liegan. 'Two lighlt-speckled birds c-aine on first. Eaich ]in turn was shuigo ill a handkerchief, so that it COUNTd not escapzqe, anid after weighing at thie scale, the weighlt was j ~~~pnbliclv anjiounced. Then wvith a lemon. the nmnlpire testedl the, spur's of each for- any poison, stahhing the fruit n-ell home, and (after~wa-rd wviping the spurs with the emlbroi(leredl towel; and~ next the birds were. (leposited on the floor Ate pi't behinid the gaItes, whiereupon the lbipeds without feath___ ~~~~er-s got, out. T1he THE OLD WALL game-cocks stepped ast wall, looking toward the interior romnd. the~ gates into~ tire open, the attendan-ts closing t le gates from the outside. The birds were cuimously alik~e, the feathers of both colored with tle, same sManll, light g'ray speckles. The headl of e~ach ha.-d beeni trinuned clear (If all trace of conmhsandl \vattle till the poor fowls looked as if they were weanhmoi tight scarlet cowls. All1 ronnd the roolt (of' the tail, both above and benjeathi, the smaller feathers hadl been plulckedl away, andl tile bare skin rub~bed till it was })urple-red aild callous with the daily application of salt. IFromn whereI sat thie l)irdis iiatchled one another like two lcalls. They advanced, like feathered heroes, p-ece(ed at each other, stabhed, ieat with their winigs and julmpedl over one another. Two or three feathers fluttered out, and then they were at it again, ekal pr for all they were worth. The voices (If' the watching crowd had died awvay in silence, and the b)irds fought ill silence also. It was only whene they stood together in a close rally that the excite AN IMPROVISED COCK-FIGHT ALONG THE STREETS OF MANILA 97 ment got too keen to be held in check and broke out for just a few moments in shouts and noisy bets. r"The spur work was so quick that one could hardly see it. A little blood showed upon the feathers, not much; but as the main went on-it lasted twenty minutes-the birds got so staggery that first one and then the other kept on sparring for wind. For the last few minutes the plucky birds reeled back on their tails as they faced one another, and every blow was a knock-down. At last one cock staggered off to the side of the inclosure and put its cropped red poll between the green palings. The audience froze into silence. The five senors on the green seats beside the pit pointed to the bird with wise fingers, discussed the situation with cold learning, and gave an order. The two attendants went into the pit, and each took up a bird and put it behind one of the gates, as at first. They stepped quickly down, and the speckled game-cocks staggered out into the middle of the pit. But the bird which had thrown up the sponge before lurched off to the green palings again and thrust its pathetic head through, a full acknowledgment of defeat. The other fowl took a brace on himself, hitched up his draggled tail, thrust out his meager chest, raised his scarlet head aloft, and crowed in victory." An American cannot enter fully into Manila's passion for this sport. Men have risen from deathbeds and soldiers shirked a watch to see a cock-fight. 4jwo A1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~: MOVING-DAY IN MANILA-METHOD OF HANDLING FURNITURE FOR ANY DISTANCE LESS THAN FOUR MILES ALONG THE STREETS OF MANILA T E111 fact thllat Manila is iin perhals the worst eartllquake region of the Philippines accounts for soime striking pecllliarities in its building styles, and which, in fact, are carefully prescribed by law, Except in the exclusively native quarter of Tondo the dwellings are two-storied, stone or brick below and wood above. The living apartments of the family are always in the upper story. The red tile roofs so much] fancied by the Spaniards hlave been largely sulerseded within the last twenty years )y tin or 7 galvanized iron, and to a limited extent by shingles. If the roof is tiled the ceiling must be of plank strong enough to withstand its crash and weight in an earthquake. For coolness a layer of nipa-palm such as the natives use in thatching is often placed on top of the roof. No plastering is allowed on walls or ceiling. Cloth is used instead. Great sliding windows of concha-shells characterize the dwellings universally. Manila on wheels makes an equally quaint impression on the stranger. The city can probably turn out 98 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND double the numler of vehicles that any other of its size in the world can. To keep a carriage signifies nothing socially, for about everybody has one, except the leper or other beggars. Stylish landaus and victorias, four-wheeled calesas and two-wheeled caromatas, crowd the Escolta and the Bridge of Spain continually, except at siesta-time. Besides the private vehicles there are thousands more for hire, principally one-horse, two-wheeled affairs. Of these the quelis is closed and has a door behind, with seats for four persons, while the caromata, the "native cart' so frequently mentioned in the newspapers, is the only light vehicle known thronghout nine tenths of the Philippinies. Built for use upon rough roads and Thle wirv little equines used everywhere for pleasure driving, never for heavy draft of any kind, are often called Philippine ponies. But there is nothing of the pony in their build. They are the dwarfed yet shapely descendants of horses brought from Mexico; and though only averaging somewhere about eleven hands —barely four feet-high, are possessed of wonderful endurance and great speed, as was evidenced )by the record of 2:10 one of them made at Santa Mesa, under a jocky weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. For months after American occupation pony caromata-trains formed the regularly organized transportation and ambulance service, and during the wet season five hundred l)olnds was the maximum load for the strongest animals. The horses of lairger reed are coii)aratively scarce, and till lately thle mares were excluded from Mlanila altogether. In the sumIler of 1899 (General ()tis made requisition for (quite a number of cavalry-horses, and they were sent him fronm San Firancisco, as the native horses did not seem to l eet the army requireIllents. InS Manila a good young horse witlh harness and new caromata will b)ringI about $80, or with a nice landau aIboit $20 more. The crowds whllich tlrong the sidewalks of IBinondo exhibit all cold wiry Philippine ponies ors, from the blonde Scandinavian to the darkest native with palpable infusion of IPapuan or negrito blood. A full black is as rare a sight in Manila as in Sitka, Alaska. The colored troops of the Twenty-fourth and Twenty-fifth lUnited States Infantry were great curiosities when thev first arrived, and from their stature and martial b)earing they made a deep impression. The costumes and the tongues are equally varied. In the walled city and alon, the Escolta and in such suburbs as Quiapo and San Miguel it is Spanish that chiefly greets the ear. -But English is gaining on it rapidly. The native servants quickly pick upl) enough foreign words and lphrases to enable them to discharge their simple duties with satisfaction to their superiors; but among themselves they gabble exclusively in Tagal, OUT FOR AN EVENING DRIVE A Tagal family in their caromata, behind one of the tough an( ungraded streets, it is likely to be very strong, but when surmounted by a shabby, swaying top, is the reverse of handsome. Sometimes a whole Tagal family crowds into one, behind a bony steed, harnessed with rope or bejuco, and the animal is much belabored when he balks in climbing a tidal-creek bridge, but finally he makes it amid a storm of Spanish oaths and a little help from three or four native lolicemen. Everything on wheels takes to the left instead of the right, as with us, and everything is driven with utter recklessness. "Three or four turnouts will come tearing down the road abreast, full tilt, clearing the road, running over boys, killing dogs and roosters, and making one's hair stand on end," is the rattling way one diarist puts it. ALONG THE STREETS OF MANILA 99 and in Tondo one hears nothing else. Mingling with the countless native costumes are the light tropic uniforms or dear old army lblue of the American soldiers, the somber garb of the priests, the European make-up of the Spaniards, the blouse and coiled queue of the Chinaman, and the cool, high-buttoned suit of white drilling that the Britisher wears everywhere in the Orient. Bright and pretty in effect are the national costumes of the Philippine women, of whom the great majority belong to the working classes, and walk in laughing, chattering pairs or groups with head thrown back and figure rigidly upright, as if still carrying their water-jars or baskets of family washing on their heads. They have a singular way of swinging their arms behind themi as they walk, and of dragging their I)are, brown feet in a semi-shuffle, to keep their chinilla, or heelless slipper, from dropping off, as it slaps the ground resoundingly at every step. Their long and glossy black hair is colmmonly worn loose, even ol the street, because so muclih more comfortable that way than when elaborately done up;and it is forever un-deirgoing H I! the washing or combing process, and rarely begins to streak with gray till the wearer reaches the age of at least fifty. While among the foreign residents a predispo- - sition to baldness prevails, amlong the natives of eitler Courtesy of Andreae and Reeves FILIPI sex hardly a trace of it can FILIPI The squatting be detected. The women dress their hair frequently with cocoanut-oil, which is supposed to possess renmarkable cleansing and tonic l)roperties, though, judged lby an American's sense of smell, this might be l)ronounced a rank proposition. 'Two women meeting in the street, and )ansing for a bit of gossip, will instantly produce their combs, if their hair happens to lie down, and set vigorously to work unraveling each her respective tresses, regardless of the passers-by, and will continue the process as long as the conversation lasts. Or a fruit-girl, waiting for a customer to make selection from her wares, will promptly seize the opplortunity, while her head is unburdened, to go through the same performance. The squatting posture of the fruit-women and flower-girls strikes an American as very odd. Other female squatters, as well as trooping urchins, in the good old Spanish times sold fifty-cent and one-dollar government lottery-tickets on the streets by thousands; but their occupation was gone as soon as the Americans appeared. Not so with the Chinese barhers, carrying around a chair, a pair of scissors and a razor wherever they go, and stopping any place to oblige a customer with a shave or a hair-cut; nor with the Chinese ear-cleaners, who, with their little scoop, p)erform their office for a cent or two in the same itinerant fashion. Mongrel curs, only less voracious NA MAIDENS WITH L Y T S FR SA NA MAIDENS WITH LOTTERY TICKETS FOR SALE posture is a favorite one among the Filipinos universally than an Eskimo dog on the Klondike, are always running around the streets, and there is this to be said, that they proved a great comfort to the Chinese inner mlan when the city was straitly shut up before the surrender. Tie "chow-dog" of the Hong-Kong variety went to the boiling-pot some time before. Filipino boys-the natives all look like boys till their daughters are old enough to marry-hawk over town the house-snakes they have managed to catch, the repulsive-looking, harmless creatures being curled around a, bamboo pole, to which their heads are tied. Instead of delivery-wagons, either four or six of the little brown men fairly trot through the streets, carry 100 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND ing an organ or some heavy piece of furniture, each piece balanced on their shoulders by a couple of crosssticks, and handled as tenderly as if it were a baby. Conspicuous above all other pedestrians, however, are the Chinese grass-cutters, the Tagal milk and vegetable venders, water-carriers and carriers of what not else, who amble along with their great earthen jars or crates suspended from either end of a bamboo shoulder-yoke. These latter are everywhere, and at their presence basket-carrying ceases to be. Everybody smokes, from the boy, and the girl too, of twelve years up, and between times the natives chew betel. Occasionally one goes by with an unlighted cigar in his mouth, where it is gradually dissolving into a pulp. This is called a dry smoke. Puffing away at a dainty cigarette a grand senorita may occasionally be seen in her elegant carriage rolling along the Escolta. On the tram-car, as the conductor hands you your change and receipt-slip, you must look out that the ashes from the burnt end of his cigar do not drop in your face. At the same time, if you wish to )orrow a cigar, as well as a light, from your next neighbor on the car, this can be done without violating customary proprieties in the slightest....... -...........! "!'':::.: 1 I. i DELI~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/ WAREHOUSES ON THE PASIG OF SMITH, BELL & CO., A LEADING BRITISH HOUSE The manager of this large business expressed gratified astonishment that the American volunteers did not loot the city -1()FtEIGNERS' LIFE IN MANILA 'T -S easy to exagrerate the (langers to healthl and the discomforts of living in Man-ila. While they exist, they do not dominate the situation. With proper precautions serious sickness is no more inevitable there than in most other places, and there is abundance of testinlony to the effect that Manila is by no means a disagreeable place of residence, especially after the foreigner gets far enough along to accept the earthquakes and typhoons as a matter of course, and laugh at the fears of the newly-arrived. Malarial fever is always easy to pick up, and often hard to shake off, but there are Enropeans in Manila who have always managed to keep clear of it. Professor Worcester tells of an old Spanish resident he met there in 1893, who boasted that he had not known a day's sickness in thirty-nine years. General Greene attributes the unexpectedly small sick-list of the first American brigades to "freedom from alcohol, sleeping above the ground and boiling the water." It is a tlhousanld pities the exemlll tion first nanled could not b)e enforced when the sol(diers got into the city, and to a degree sullied their otherwise model record. Perhaps no better presentation of the case lIas been made than that ly our ex-mrinister to Siam, Tionorable John Barrett, in Ilarper's Weekly: "The key to endurance of heat and enjoyment of life in the tropics is contained in the following formula, dedulced from several years' residence on the fourteenth parallel: Rise early, lathe in warm water, and enjoy the cool of the morning; take a very light breakfast; work under a punka (large overhead fan), and do not venture into the heat of the sun without a proper pith hat, helmet or lined umbrella; eat a fair lunch, or tiffin, at noon, and follow it with a siesta for an hour; continue work up to half-past four in the afternoon; bathe again, and go out immediately for exercise at tennis, golf, polo, boating, shooting, cycling, riding, walking, or whatever will limber one up and FOREIGNERS' LIFE IN MANILA 101 create healthy persliration-drive, if nothing letter is feasible; rel)air to tlie clul, hult limit 'stingahs' (hisklies and so(las) to t\wo; batlle again all(l (line heaitily, b)lt not heavily, at eight, witli as liinite(l amoulnt of drinks as p)ossil)le. Keep tlhe bow\els reguilar. IT (dilling alone, retire al)out ten; if out, b)e excused a.t eleven, andi in eitler ease sleelp, without worryl. in stockings or a pair of liglit tlannel p)a.iamlas an(d an abdomen-lelt, under a mosquito-nettillg." Tli foregoing is essentiallv the regiillation routiiie in AI\anila of an American or ilu)ropeaIl engage(d in business pursiits, tliougll somletimes lie may have to worl an hour or two later than half-past four in tile afternoon, as even the balnks keep open till five o'clock. O)utdoor recreations, it must b)e lnderstood, are inmpossiblle;_ duriing tlle most of the year, exceplt before nine o'clock in the morning or after five in the afternoon. Thle siesta may last anywhere front one to three hours. The mgreater the lieat the loiiger does Manila sleep under tlle glare of tlhe trol)ical sun, il-n its streets deserted, its fashionable stores, its offices an \1 ware-. h0uses closed —all its l activities sIsp)e1ended i: as at mIidnigllt. Inat- ': telml)ting to dispense FULL-BLOODED I witlh tIle siesta is it not lpossilble that American energy oversloots the mark, I)y denying whlat in trolical climes is a real demiand of exhaulsted nature? Until 1 9'9 no otilier European nationality than Spanish was allowed to settle in Manila. For many years tle leadingl foreign interests in Alanila have been in,ritish hands, eslpecially as to the banking business; and the Eng'lisll club of scarcely one llundred memblers is farmous for its intellectual and social (qualities, as well as its admiral)le appointments. Its cliub-house has a library of several thousand volumes, a rea(ling-room where numerous English and American lperio(licals lmay be devoulred lb the full-stomaclhed mlercllant or his.homesick clerk, a billiardrooiii andl!)ar-room, guest-roolis, bath-rooms, and a dlining and dancing hall that leaves nothing to be lesired. Its latcll-string is always out for any lone, lorn Anglo-Amlerican who can bIringl the proper credentials, and while its public functions are not frequent, they are so elegant as to Ibe eagerly attended by Manila's ~ ^:h.'.....^: bon ton. The clubhouse is always located soiewhere in the sul)ur!)s, two or three miles from 1iinondo, and with the same set of servants an-. *;':; otlier establishmnent TIV.,Ej. bership. Sp.:::;: o is miaintainel in the sai g goe henalt of the n lusiness section whllere tiffin......."....;; is served, the latest se:gossip) d scussed, and pe Tl.* " -; i' siesta snoozed out. Th e suburban clubfriue oid;eigt house knows only pajaa the British in importance, and possibly ________: _______: ________________ ' surpasses it in m einTIVE FRUIT-GIRL bership. Speaking of these matters, the saying goes in the Far Fast that if an Englishman, a. Slaniard and an Amnerican were to be cast upon a desert islaind, tlme first would organize a club, the second liuild a church, and the third start a. newspaper. The monotony of life the great drawback, next to the hleat-is not materially relieved by the frequent holidays: eight solid hours on Sundays and holidays are commonly spent in "lying off" in thin pajam as -reading, smoking and card-playing, varied NA' 102 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND with chat and jest, and possibly writing to the home folks thousands and thousands of miles away. Not all can resist the temptations to evil in a life like this. There is some intemperance, and more of immorality. Among the natives many unions are entered into under the old Tagal customs, without the sanction of a religious ceremony, and this practice naturally facilitates irregular connections with foreigners. From the native point of view a present of money to a girl's parents suffices to constitute her the wife, for the time being, of Senor Blank, who installs her in an inexpensive establishment in some native quarter. When this kind of a life comes to an end, as it nearly always does in a year or two, Senor Blank ants, cockroaches, or other vermin, but they have air, and plenty of it, room and freedom, with bathing and lounging facilities in. abundance. They generally permit the indulgence of a swim before breakfast, or a moon or star lighted drive after dinner, if either is desired. The cost is surprisingly light, considering the comfort and independence of it all. A valet, or personal attendant, considers himself fairly paid at $4.50 a month. So does the cook, while the other servants get less. A nine or ten room house, favorably situated, with running water in it, and garden and stable attached, will come within $1 80 a year. A hundred-dollar investment secures a stylish turnout for the road, everything complete, horse, carriage and harness. One dollar a day in Amlerican currency, or say twIo of the Mtexican silver dollars that formi "the standard" in the IFar East, will enable a mani to live like merelK X aa fighting-cocl, and( a. very e.... fesw dollars aore per month to take his f ll share in the social enjoyments going on..... behi d 'a tm a- arouid o hi n. In the better class of retail trade the lar East system has prevailed of signing a due-bill styled a chit when making a purchase, instead of paying cash down. It is contracting the debt hlalbit, hich keeps many a poor sp)endthrift fellow weighed down until life becomes a waking nightmare. TI'he "chit" collectors, when they come round at the end of the month, sometimes bring merely a sack for carrying their accumulation of Mexican dollars, but at other times have along some trusty native propelling a wheelbarrow for it. In many other things besides the use of "chits" the foreign merchant and his lowest clerk meet on the same level. After office hours business talk is tabooed, familiar social intercourse takes its place, and the merest underling will go driving on the Malecon and Luneta behind a team and carriage of his own, and possibly such as will outshine and pass those of his employer. The day after the departure of the regular mail-steamer was formerly kent as a holiday by the employees of the foreign business houses, but this practice the American war broke up. NATIVE TAILOR-SHOP, MANILA is often liberal enough to settle a trifling annuity upon her, in which case she becomes an especial "catch" among her own people, though even without it she seldom has difficulty in finding a permanent mate, who simply requires fidelity in the future. Occasionally a business foreigner gets an economical fit, and lives for awhile at his store or office. But the vast majority set up housekeeping-two, three or four clubbing together-somewhere in the suburbs, finding this infinitely preferable to boarding at any hotel, or with some old Spanish family for almost nothing. The American officers in Manila quickly learned a similar lesson. The suburban bungalows may abound in rats, lizards, caterpillars, house-snakes, THE SUBURBS OF MANILA 103 TONDO CHURCH AND PLAZA Tondo is the purely native quarter of Manila, the only pueblo, or ward, where thatched roofs are still authorized TIIES SUBURBS OF MANILA B EITWEI:,XN BIinondo and the l)ay lies the district of San Nicolas, with its warellouses, great hlemp-.)resses and(l sei-native b)ack streets. Nortll of San Ni(olas, stretclling a mlile along the lar, is Tondo, tlhe home of native fisliermnen, canoemen and laborers, and comll)osed of thatclh-roofed( lluts, a style of )building whliclh in the other p)lelblos of Manila is now entirely p)rohibited or much restricted by law. I-ere rTagal life goes on witll little adlllxtlire of foreign polish, though the influlences represented hy Tondo church and convent, islanded among thousan(ls of lhahays (nati've huts), tincture it deeply. It looks like a congested, mucl overgrown Malay village, whllich it really iS, thlougll lacking, as does Alanila in general, the limnitless luxuriance of foliage and shade characteristic of the rural Philipl)ines. Tondo is low-lying, has no sewxers, and the water during half the year stands in pestilential pools under the houses. in thle wet season water rushes all over it from one to three feet deep. It is full of little tide-water creeks and ditches, many -__ --— _ of them sickeningly foul of Courtesy of Andreae and Ree smell, witlh surroundings to Many undrain match, as l)efits a polmlation that lives on anything from fish_ and rice to stewed grasshoppers. A conflagration hlere is a dlreadful event, the native's bahay lurning like a kerosened haystack. ()n the night of Washington's Biirthday, 1899, there was a great fire of unldoublted insurlgent origin. It began in the Santa Cruz district, and extended to San N-icolas, where several limildings were b1lo\\n up to check it; then swept over a large part of Tondo; the )burned area in the three districts exceeded a mile square and the............... ves A SO-CALLED CANAL, MANILA ned ditches, foul and fetid, abound in Manila and its suburbs 104 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND loss more than lhalf a nmillion dollars, and the flames iwere got under control only bI)y immlllense effort, to which the lBritish and G(erman residents contributed their full share. Santa (r1uz is northeast and Quiapo east of Bi)noindo. Quial)o fronts on tile Pasig, and so does San Aliguel, tile aristocratic, leaf-emrbowered residence section east of Quiapo, in which lligll-b)ridge(d canals as mlluch al)ound as do the amll)ly slladed an(d welllighlted a-venues, and where from the back stairs of his is thle only cllurch edifice in tle modern- style of architecture in tile Philipplines. It was fabricated in 'll;urope, and broughlt over in sections which were put together on the grounld. Tie sub)urblal village of Sam 1imaloc adjoins San Selastian on tile northeast. ('rossinll no() to thle soithll bank of tile Pasig, tile nninterestin (dlistrict of (!oncelecion, witll its oldl Spanisfh b)arracks and otller nilitary buildings, occupies a b)readthl eteweenl tlle walled city and tile river, hllicll here hlends to the southeast. l:llrtller 1u) tlhe crookedl Pasig, and ]perhaps five mliles fromn its nuluth, is tlhe closely built subl-, rl)al l)lei)blo of Santa Aia. Elqually in the mnidst of counltrifiedl surroulln(ings and ap 1l)roxin lmte l y ALOtwo lmiles soutlheast of thle lwalled city is a Iplopulous and wellto-d o s e in i- n a t i v e sui)ulrl), l'aco, wllose cp')^s ~ ~ fiesta is celehrated N,5)/,A AGTAJAN (as next in local falme and brilliancy after that of Manila's own Saint Francis the 7 r1<\Tarflll The Sl3aniis!h ceimetery —;anila's (reenwoo dY t 'vis nearer thle city b)y 4A C2 9 t interments have etet. _1_ee lee a i(le o f tler \M jzzz51t Slanisll and( mestizo (leadl llessed w\ith friends ablle to b)ear the cost for centuties; not, ]however, anLATEi thle greenery of w6ind-k issed, m)lottedl graves, but in niches!built for thle purpose in great walls of stonie masonry fifteen o() twenty feet thick. Into tlhese niches tle coffins are shoved like so imany pans of bread into an oven, and there they stay till the seven years are upl for which the $35 rental was r)ai(d. Then if a renewal p)aymlent is not fortlcomlning they are d(rawn out, thleir lids b)roken in, anl tile co)ntents-skllll and other bones -are dumli)ed into a l)ig charnal pit near bly. To an Americaln or Flnglishmian this charnlel pit, where lordly nlansion the rich mestizo or foreign mercliant steps into his own boat in truly Venetian faslhion, and amid the flowery iperfumes of his own and neighl)ors' grounds is rowed by native boatmen whither he will. 1Beyond San Mligulel town and country b)lend. San Sehastian is northl of San Miguel, and Mialacanan, with the so-called palace of the American Military Governor, is east of it. The tall-steepled steel and iron church of San Selastian, with marble facings, CAVITE AND THE NAVY- YARD 105 THE BURIAL WALL IN ARISTOCRATIC PACO CEMETERY, NEAR OLD MANILA never a shovelful of earth is thrown in, is a revolting testilmlolmy to the callous-hearted inseinsili]lity of thle late donlilant race. Yet it should be said the b)ullring at Paco never blecallle a tlhoroughly fashionablle resort, and for the last several years colld hardly be made to pay expensses. Tlle entire country al)oiIt Mlanila consists of riceswanllps, low-lying gardens and bamnboo thickets. The slblurl an roads are largelv mlacadanized. Sloothl, level antd prettily shaded, they are literally )llried out of sigllt when tile rains of July and Augiust come, and a coac(lhimali wiho can tllhen drive llis master safely home to the latter's l-ungllow in the sublrlbs becomes a treasure. Slichl eni)llatically is the region south of tile walled city, where Amlerican l-rowess won its first laurels on Philippine soil: for the first detachments we1nt into camplp on thle bay shore, some distance below IMalate, two miles, and Ermita, one mile, from the citadel walls, up to which they had to work their way. Tlle little stone fortress of San Antonio Abad, which, b)y prearrangement, received the principal American fire on the day MIanila capitlllated, stands about two tlhirds of a mile soutllh of Alalate, its walls in the highest tides laved lby thle waters of the bay. The new Engolish c]ll)-llolse stands on the bay shore consideral~ly ineartri Manila. From its broad veranda the E'nglish colony, through their spy-glasses, watched tlhe lrogress of l)ewey's AMay-day battle, and all prolnounce it tile most tlhrilling and dramatic spectacle they ever beheld. They gloried in his achievement. CAVITE AND THE NAVY-YARD N INL nliles b)elow Manila a little peninsula, long.a 11( narrow, with sincll a slp)indling neck as favors tlle idea it was once an islan(l, tlhrnists nortlhward into the l)ay, slielterimn a smlall and ratlner shallow piece of water kIinowni as IBacoor bav. (On) this peninsllla is situated thle only sliilp-yard in the Philippines, the naval station of (avite, wllich, including arsenal, 1Inarracks for fifteeni llnidreid men (tllouglh tlie usually Spanish garrison was much less), storehlollses and other publlic buildings, covers about five hllndred acres. The navy-yard has well-equipped shlops and ways for light work and vessels of less than one thoiisand tons, and here were built by native mechanics the trim little gunboats captured byDewey, as also most of the dozen more that General Otis later boutght from Spain for patroling purposes. But it is capablle of little expansion, while the small depth of water plrecllldes the building of dry-docks for large shilms or the use of very capacious floating-docks. Cavite, according to the Spanish idea, was strongly 106 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND fortified, its stone walls being elaborated at certain points into abundantly gunned little fortresses; such, however, is the destructiveness of modern arms that Dewey had no difficulty in knocking them to pieces. Cavite is really a double city. New (avite is situated back of the arsenal, which is at the tip of the peninsula. In ibygone days its five or six thousand highly aristocratic inhabitants, comfortably andl even elegantly housed, were almost exclusively Spanishnaval officers and their clerks and families, and civilians, many of these latter being engaged in business in Manila and going and coming on the little steamer that used to ply regularly twice a day betw-een the two doom. No natives except servants were permitted to live in Spanish (avite, and a strong, high wall was built across the neck of the peninsula capable of defying an army of them. Old Cavite, a crowded native town half a mile distant, is at the base of Bacoor bay. In common with the whole province of (avite it has long been a hotbed of Tagal discontent. -The revolt of 1872, craftily fomented by Spanislh priests for their own ends, was confined to Cavite province, and it was expiated by the usual blood-letting and wholesale deportations.;Auinaldo was born and brought up and had his little holding of property in this province. After I)ewey's UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT OFFICES, CAVITE Former residence of the Spanish commandant. The front of this building is shown on page 13 places. The commandant of the navy-yard was a high dignitary, semi-independent of the (:overnorGeneral. He commanded the fleet in the Philippines, and he reported direct to the Minister of Marine at Madrid. A cathedral and convent, churches, theater, etc., made Cavite a little metropolis, but still more characteristic are its dungeons, deep in the earth and even extending out under the bay. In these dark caverns, far from the light of day, a long list of real or imagined foes of Spanish rule have been subjected to tortures belonging to the Dark Ages, while on the walls above whole rows of bullet-marks show where and how a multitude of helpless prisoners met their victory, and the garrison of New Cavite had decaml)p'd to Manila, the natives crept in and looted the town like savages. Every house was broken into. The altars of the churches were wrecked; in one of them even the organ was torn to pieces. Pianos were destroyed or ruined. Crypts containing the bones of priests were rifled, and tl-e remains scattered broadcast. fnder the altar of one church $80,000 in coin was dug up. The natives swarmed in, and set up squatter sovereignty in houses they had never before been permitted to gaze upon; the houses of the priests were doubly colonized. They had a lot of Spanish prisoners, and on these-was it much wonder?-they LAGUNA DE BAY AND THE LAKE COUNTRY 107 wreaked a merciless vengeance. Dewey was able to restrict the outrages to some extent, but his force of marines was too small for a regular military occupation. When some two weeks later Aguinaldo reached the scene, brouglt thither from HIong-Kong in the Hugh McCulloch, Dewey's dispatch-boat, order was soon measurably restored and the barbarities brought to an end, and Dewey gave him permission to help himself to the Spanish arms and ammunition in the arsenal, which he did and soon put them into use. GATEWAY OR ENTRANCE THROUGH THE GREAT WALL OF CAVITE LAGUNA DE BAY AND THE LAKE COUNTRY TllE Pasig river is the outlet for a fresli-water inland lake covering an area of about 35() square miles, and approaching within nine miles of Manila, thoulgh by the river's meandering course the distance is more than doubled. Tlle Laguna de Bay (laguna being Spanish for lake) takes its name from the town of Bay on its southern shore. It is of ilmmense advantage to Manila, from the easy water communication it furnishes with an extensive and most productive country in the interior, as well as a bathing and boating stream; furthermore, its proximity creates aircurrents that tend to mitigate the city's heat. Beginning the ascent of the Pasig at the Bridge of Spain, the river-banks are beautifully picturesque and quaint for two miles, or till past the charming villas of San Miguel, the palace and gardens of Malacanan, and Nagtajan, each and all surrounded by palmi-trees and other glorious tropical vegetation. Then come the high-pitched roofs of native bahays, built on piles, in clusters gradually growing further and further apart. Some of the houses are waterside tiendas, or places of call and refreshment for the thousands constantly passing on this river thoroughfare; and here boatmen and fishermen, squatting on their heels or reclining somew-here in the shade, rest during the burning noontide, and eat, drink, smoke, gamble and chatter at their ease. At the water's edge are frequent small bamboo-inclosed duck-ponds, or, further out, fish-weirs freshly and skillfully set; but the sight of women and children here and there on the pebbly river-reaches, engaged at low tide in licking up shellfish with their toes, is soon left behind. Bare-legged girls wade out into the stream, let their water-jars down, and with burden poised upon the head chat their way homeward. Toward evening parties of bathers, all ages and both sexes, multiply along the bank, or are already splashing about in the water with light-hearted glee. Great water-buffaloes with wide-spreading horns come singly or several together for the bath that rewards their afternoon toil in the field or on the road. They are attended, if at all, by a Tagal youngster, naked or nearly so, who stands upright on the animal's broad back and guides him by a string attached to a split rattan passed through his nostrils. Boy and buffalo are old cronies, and as the huge creature disappears 108 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND: ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ _ as\ I- *s 4. k., 4 k~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Pateros, Taguig and others. Not many mIiles away are the hot springs of Los Banos, a health resort for upward of two Ihundred years. Around here the l)omninican and Franciscan orders owni great areas of valuable land; the former placed theirs on the mlarket in the fall of 1898 at $1,l700,000. Thousands of ducks are raised in the vicinity of Los Banos, the eggs, snugly covered il nests made from bamlboo and rice-paddy leaves, being left to float on the water until they are hatched by the combined heat of the tropical sun and the hot springs. Santa Cruz, a town of importance on the southeast shore of Laguna de Bay, is NS:;'g: ';: jA8^: 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0:. 0\.^: '0';' * **::.^ ' y Z W,9i;;$ t= - - _ t it 0 *: -Q. 00; 5- *.i - sy of Andreae and Reeves A PASIG RIVER BATHING-PLACE AT QUIAPO, MANILA in the water his rider also plunges in and swims and dives till the almost equally amphibiols taste of both is satisfied. Occasionally from somre point or cove -wom'en w-ith baskets of family washing on their heads walk unhurriedly away, returning to get ready tle evening meal of rice or grain back at their huts. All the time down from the lake country there keeps conlinlg an endless procession of cascos, bancas and rafts, loaded with cocoanuts and all manner of fruit and l)rod(ce, as also rafts of bamboo lengths and astonishing quantities of nipa thatching for houses. in normnal times the terminus of the lake-packet coming daily from Manila. Another lake town is Alorong, on the rocky peninsula of that name jutting down into the lake from the north. It is the cal)ital of the province of Morong, as Santa Cruz is of Laguna province. North and east of the lake the country rises abruptly toward the central mountain ranges of the islands, and there the duck and snipe hunter quickly finds himself among jungled thickets and superlatively tropical, spice-perfumed vegetation, though seldom far from some Tagal hamlet snuggling Tlhe Laguna de PBay most likely wTas once a shallow inlet from lhe sea, from which it lias becorme separated 1)y repeated volcanic deposits. Where it overflows to find its discharge through tile lower level that here borders Manila bay is a network of channels forming a kind of delta, on which cluster the populous native town of Pasig and several native villages of large size, including those of;:: Courtesy of Andreae and Reeves ourtesy o reae an LAKEBOAT IN GENERAL USE ON LAGUNA DE BAY It differs from the banca (river-boat) in having a sail, and on each side an outrigger to prevent overturning THE CHURCH AND ITS ARCHBISHOP 109 under its leafy cover amid the foot-hills. Southeastward thirty or forty miles, in the same ranges, abound larger game, including wild boars. The myriad streamlets emptying into Laguna de Bay from all sides greatly extend Manila's garden area, which the lake country really is. From Morong or thereabouts came most of the rock the Spaniards used in building the breakwater, or new harbor, in front of Manila. In this district are iron-mines also, which, about the middle of the eighteenth century, a Spaniard named Salyaclo, having obtained the necessary concession from the Manila government, undertook to develop with Chinese workmen. He met with promising success until the church attacked him for employing infidel labor, ruined the whole enterprise and bankrupted him, since which the mines have remained unworked. The old circular-shaped crater of a submerged volcano rises from the center of the lake, its walls in most places hundreds of feet high. The natives dread the place exceedingly from the notion it is full of crocodiles, but occasionally some adventurous tourist from Manila gets over into it. A LAKE COUNTRY LANDSCAPE, NORTH OF LAGUNA DE BAY THE CHURCH AND ITS ARCHBISHOP IN THE Philippines church and state have been for ages interjoined and blended in ways and to an extent that almost laffle American comprehension. In the "Administrative Council" of the Governor(General the Archbishop of Manila and the four lishops were prominent always, dominant often. The church was not only the beacon, guide and mentor in spiritual things, but it took an essential part in civil government. Very largely controlling directly and legally such important affairs as land-holding, rentals, 110 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND occupations, taxes, etc., it was likewise the repository of indispensable sanctions pertaining to almost every relation of life, whether individual or corporate. The Spanish policy, especially in the rural pueblos, was to magnify the office of the parish priest in educational and political functions. The Archbishop of Manila was 'vice-president and acting head of the Department of Education for the Philippines, and friars were chairmen of the two principal committees. tyranny of the clergy, and it was extreme. No translation of the Bible was allowed to enter the colony. No Protestant church could be built, no Protestant service be held. A place in the little Protestant graveyard near Manila was all that a Christian of dissenting faith could claim. From the Archbishop down to the poorest priest, those receiving about $40 a month, all religious functionaries were paid a stated salary by the government, All public schooling was in the hands or under the supervision of the ecclesiastics. In the many outlying villages the padre was all powerful. A safe-conduct signed by the Archbishop and vised by him would command respect when a similar document from the Governor-General might not be worth the paper it was written on. He was girt about with legal privilege as wrell as personal sacredness. He was not answerable in anything to the civil magistrate, but only to those set above him in the church. lie could neither sue nor be sued. He might be and sometimes was notoriously unworthy, a profligate or a criminal, yet he could not be brought into any court. He was above the courts. At the; " /: s;': *,.: Ar THE ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA their fees and perquisites in the most of cases amounting to much more; and there were pensions in the ecclesiastical budget, as well as in the civil and military. The sanctorumn tax, that was disbursed directly to the church, amounted to $800,000 annually; it was only a fraction of the public revenues that the clergy handled in one capacity or another. Foreman's high authority sustains the idea that $10,000,000 and upward passed through their hands out of a total revenue of about $17,000,000. Larger allowances were made for transporting the clergy up and down the islands and out from Spain, it is said, than for building sadly needed railroads, while a much larger sum was ap same time he was, ex-officio, endowed with valuable public emoluments. The parish priest was the notary whose attestation was necessary to legalize a hundred different documents and all sorts of business transactions. Equally necessary was his attestation to make binding certain kinds of municipal regulations, and to confer a legal status on the proceedings of public bodies and public meetings. Religious intolerance was but one phase of the misguided zeal and propriated to the support of Manila cathedral than for internal improvements and public instruction. The Archbishop received from the public treasury a salary of $12,000 a year. He dwelt, and still dwells, in his palace in Old Manila free of either rent or tax. In history the Archbishop often appears in open feud with the Captain-General, and on four different occasions he was for some time the actual head of the state, by the direct appointment or tacit permission THE CHURCH AND ITS ARCHBISHOP 111 of Madrid. The last four (lovernor-Generals —Blanco, Polavieja, Rivera and Augustin-all fell short of the present Archbishop's approbation, and the firstnanmed owed his recall directly to clerical influence; for Blanco, in combatting the revoltedFilipinos, would not burn, slay and destroy at all as the reverend fathers thought he should, and too seldom for their taste were the instruments of torture brought into use that had been preserved in the convents since the days of the Hioly Inquisition. In establishing American authority and introducing American institutions prudence would seem to warrant a thorough sifting of in the opposite direction, on the Luneta, from all others; when every head was bared at his approach, as he was driven through the streets in a carriage drawn by four white horses, sometimes with outriders and guards; when, if a ship in the bay desired to load or discharge cargo on any religious holiday, including Sunday, he, and not the captain of the port, or the Governor-General, was the dignitary to grant or to withhold permission; when certain special fees were set apart for him at the custom-house every week; and when, on the great public festival of Corpus Christi, as lie came abreast of the colors of each regiment, THRONE-ROOM IN FALACE OF THE ARCHBISHOP, ULD MANILA The exterior of this edifice is very plain, but within it is richly and elaborately decorated the counsels tendered lby the polished, scholarly and adroit prelate-politician now seated on the episcopal throne at Manila, the same whose pastoral of May 8, 1898, was made up of such calculated bosh as the following: "(Christians, defend your faith against heretics who raise an insuperable barrier to immortal souls, enslave the )eople, abolish crosses from cemeteries, forbid pastors to perform baptism, matrimony or funeral rites, or to administer consolation or grant absolution." Things are not as they were to the Archbishop when only he and the Governor-General might drive they would be laid on the ground, and he, descending from his coach of state, would stand upon them and elevate the host, east, south, west and north, and then, re-entering his carriage, go forward to repeat the ceremony at the next regiment. A few explanations may aid some readers in threading the ecclesiastical mazes. A priest, or padre, is usually found in charge of a parish or congregation, but temporarily may be without charge, or again he may have one or more assistant priests. So long as he holds a charge he is its cura. One who has never taken the additional severer vows of a monk, and 112 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND identified himself with one of the monastic fraternities, is a secular priest. Friar is only another name for monk, a member of some one or other of the religious orders. Both by their own rules of community and a decree of the famous Council of Trent, Roman Catholic monks are prohibited from becoming the paid curas of parishes, or, in other words, from holding incumbencies. Nevertheless, ninety-five per cent of the nearly seven hundred Philippine incumbencies are said to have been held by friars. This naturally became a cause of complaint on the part of the native secular priests, mostly mestizoes, and their friends, who protested the friars ought to go back to their monasteries, or else go forth as missionaries, according to their vows, and that it was unfair to crowd the secular clergy out of nearly all the curacies. "The friars, therefore," remarks Foreman, "determined to nip this native ambition in the bud. In 1872 they instigated a little revolt of the troops at ('avite, and attributed the plot to the native clergy. Four native priests fell victims to the intrigue, and were publicly executed. Then, following up the scheme, native priests were declared incompetent to hold incumbencies. At the same time several of the best families of Manila were banished and despoiled of their property." From such well-to-do Manila families the native secular priests have largely come. Most of them own property and are in comfortable circumstances, but for several years l)ast no native youths have been allowed to study for the priesthood. CHURCH AND CONVENT OF MAJAIJAI, THE COUNTRY TOWN PICTURED ON PAGE 61 Majaijai was a typical center of Spanish and monastic influence. It is situated in the sugar and hemp region southeast of Manila THE RELIGIOUS ORDERS THE church ruled the Philippines, through or sometimes in defiance of the Governor-General, and the orders ruled the church. Nor was this originally so gross a violation of the fitness of things as it first seems. The conquest very largely, the civilizing and Christianizing wholly, of the native population were toilsomely and patiently accomplished, so far as accomplished at all, by the members of the orders. It was they who tamed the masses into orderly beings. They were the class that stood next to the people, whose dialect they had spent years in learning. They understood the subject race sympa tlletically, and this was something the government pllaceholders never attempted to do. Till their greed for corporate wealth swallowed up worthier and kindlier motives, they befriended the natives consistently, and helped them in many ways. The Archbishop and the four bishops who assist him in governing the five dioceses in the islands are appointed by the Pope, and to them the orders are nominally subordinate, subject to the supervision of the Pope, and till lately to the prerogatives of the king of Spain. These prerogatives, together with the appointment of parish priests, and certain other THE RELIGIOUS ORDERS 113 ecclesiastical functions conferred upon the some ancient papal bull, were theoretically ~ by his vice-regent, the Governor-General. Governor-'General successfully opposed or eA ignored the demands of the friars. One, Bus was murdered in his palace at their instigat as his dead body was dragged through the s Manila they followed and hooted at it. Another, Solano, they caused to be poisoned. As late as 1892 l)espujols had to leave, after serving barely one fourth of his term, because he would not disgrace his oflice by acts of injustice and cruelty for lwhich they clamored. It was whispered in Manila that $10(0,000 were plaid in Madrid to secure his cabled recall. As for the Arclhbishop, i he, too, though usually belonging to one of thle orders himself, had many a hard tussle with tlhenm. lThe immediate chief of each order, its so-called lprovincial, is invariablly a shrewd business man andl ^ (liplomat, and when thle provincials determined to have a thing, or to carry any particular measure, they were practically certain to get it. 'le lresent Archllbishol, as little successful as most of hlis plredecessors in subduing the turbulence and softening the rivalries of the friars, is prolbably sincere in stating hiis belief thlat it would be better, undert the changed conditions, for the orders to retire from the Philippines. At all events, such w a sensible view of the situation; for the friai must see, can b)e of no further service to the ment in dealing with the natives, whlile the reaching and their scandalous wealth and con could only bring discredit upon the cause of: 'The problem this question raises is highly im 8 The four all-powerful religious corporations have been the Augustinians, I)ominicans, Franciscans and Recollects. There were some Jesuits also-in part a learnedly inoffensive, and for the rest a devoted missionary band, under the heel or at least the jealous surveillance of their old enemies, the Dominicansand a few illiterate Capuchins, besides some Brothers - A VENERATED SHRINE, OR CHAPEL, IN CAVITE Photographed shortly before the Spaniards were driven out rould be of St. Vincent de Paul, whose schools and hospitals rs, as he are a truly beneficent work. A lately published Cathgovern- olic estimate assorts the spiritual charges thus: Augustinians......2,082,131 souls Dominicans........ 699,851 souls tentions Recollects.........1,175,156 souls Jesuits.............. 213,065 souls religion. Franciscans......1,010,753 souls Secular clergy...... 967,294 souls portant. Total................................................... 6,148,250 souls 114 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND It is stated there were about 3,000 members of the monastic orders on the ground at the beginning of 1898. Excepting one awing of the masterful Dominicans (wealthy and p)owerful far beyond the numerical i:::: : :; their life's work and dying in the distant colTihe customary lprograln was a few years in nonastery of Old Manila, in order to colmplete tudies, and in i)articular to learn the special dialect of the district tlhey AwNere to be sent to. In the plastoral relation some gave tlhemselves faithfully to their professional duties, but the lmajority were greatly concerned in political Inatters, so much so as oftentimes to run before they Awere sent, and tlhis notwithstanding tlle government w-as always eager to strengthen its plosition and swell its revenues through their co-olieration. They were commonly very hospital)le to the occasional tourist, 1perhalps indulging in downright jolliness as a relief to their monotonous life. As a class the glory and enrichment of their order has been a cherished mnotive that seemiiingly outweighed every other. A late United States consul vouches for the fact that while he Awas at MIanila one order alone sent to a branch in America $1,500,000; and just how much accumulated treasure Awas shipped away by tile scared I)rotherhoods N-when the war-cloud of 1898 arose no one knows, further than that several millions Awere sent to Hong-Kiong alone. At that l)lace the Doninicans (wXhose charter principle and solemn vow is )absolute and perpetual poverty) lhave nmagnificent offices and own millions of dollars' worth of real estate, b)y the tolerance of free and liberal-minded England. In NManila a great deal of real property belongs to the orders, and, like everylse pertaining to the church and the churcl's ntatives, it has never paid taxes in any form. )w much it is would be desirable information.:::::::~: CHURCH OF SAN SEBASTIAN, MANILA This is the only modern style church building in the Philippines prol)ortion indicated above), nearly all were from tile th peasantry or laboring classes in Spain, whence they re came out as young, nmen with no other thought than J1 NATIVE HATRED FOR THE FRIARS T IBlE Filipinos are a very devout p-eople-in their way, and after all that nmay 1)e said about their way, thle restraints of religion do undoubtedly influence manv lives, in- some cases greatly so. It is impossibl)e to believe it an absolutely unmeaning form when, in passing a chlurch or crucifix, their hab)it is to bare the head or reverently nlake the sign of the cross, nor that in the interminable round of their religious processions love for tile spectacular wholly displaces a childlike faith. And they still kiss the padre's hand gladly, if lie is a nan they can resplect. It is a strange anomaly that such a people, clinging passionately to their religious traditions, should turn w-itlh white-hleat anger on their former spiritual guides, and insist uncompromisingly tlat thle friars must go. ]Reasons thlere must be, and there are. Thle friar's avarice is one thling. HIere are a people of whom the inlmense majority are ground down with poverty. Yet the priests every year extorted two million dollars for marriage and burial fees, masses, 1)aptisms, fiestas, sale of indulgences, relices, and thle like. For attestations they got as much more. They were the oovernmeiit's authorized agents to? sell, on commission, bond certificates, stamps, stamlped p)aper, NA TIVE HA TRED FOR THE FRIARS 115 ancl tile otller (oculllments required by Slanish lawr. Almlost everywlhere, except in AManila, they held a mn)olpoly of the sale of religious tbooks and pictures, scal)utlars, and other rel igious goods. They could 'squeelze the last cent out of their congregations to raise a fullnd for thle next fiesta, and for tlle expenditures froll that fund tliev were accouintablle to no one. In Alanila the orders started blanks uln(ler various aliases and had tlleir financial agents, to carry on -the busilness of lending money to planters at usurious rates of interest. In Imany districts the friars were the only resident white men, and their position as sole representa ttives of the dominant race was taken advantage of to nmake themselves not merely tlle rulers of the land, hlut its actlal ipossessors regardless of equity. The land question is a burning one in the Philippl)ies. In early times the governmnent of the outlying provinices was usually handed over to the mercy of low-class adlventurers, commoni soldiers holding "enconi)ien das," or tracts -of land assigned as a reward for lilitary services, over which lands, including the natives settled thereon, they exercisedl desp)otic control. To Spain's credit the abuses growing out of this system were virtually eliminated in time, but here was the model always present to the mind of a friar. The laws in regard to land tenure alid land titles were rudimentary. Tlle orders took i)ossession of nullerous tiacts, es}lecially if extra desirablle, and later got thle governmeint to vest the s(aime in thenl by successive decrees, ( outesy of \ndreae and Reeves NATIVE COACHMAN, thloutrl title-(deeds tlley Portrait of Sebastian Lopez, refe never Ihad(. VAery oftell tlhey I)lt tlleir "lay brothers" in charge. Thecse were nleclanics alnd workmlen w-lo ]had taken t-le vows of olbedienice and cllastitv, l)ut not the vows of a clerical. tIavino in these ways secured possessory rights, tle corporlations let out the alland to the native planters or peasanlts for the term stipulated by law; namely, three years. At the endl of that time whatever improveinents the tenant had made thev claimed the benefit of, making them the basis for raising the rent. In some provinces they were barefaced enough to claim tlhat the sugar-mills an( ot]her mnaclliinery which the planters had )llrcllased be- lojngedl to the estate, conse- (uently could not h)e taken f %j away from it. tourresy or Andlreae andl Ieeves A LITTLE FILIPINA She is returning from an American camp, her bucket nearly full of after-dinner scraps Tlhe natives felt that all this was stealing the fruit of their own labor an d their own enterprise, and they fought it in every peaceful way tlhev could. They were powerless. IUnder Spanish law,, the religious corporations had the feudal right of lords spiritual in giving base leases wherein the tenant was allowed to IANILA farmn the land on which he and his -red to on page 76 ancestors had always lived on payment of a certain ground rent, or a certain part of his crops and herds, while all such rights as mining, quarrying, cutting timber and fishing belonged to the landlord exclusively. The government openly protected the orders in their grasping methods. Rentals went up and up, till finally the M er 116 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND tenant planters and peasants, in desperation, broke into furious revolt. The contention of the Filipinos is that the possession of land must remain as it is. As the friars have about all gone from the country districts, this would leave the lands heretofore held by the orders in permanent possession of the farmers now occupying them. Another count in the indictment against the friars was their abuse of the special law of 1888, empowering the ecclesiastics to make requisition on the government for free labor for such architectural and constructional purposes as they might deem necessary to the welfare of the church. The Spanish system required fifteen days' labor or a commutation pay r farmers, also collecting fees from them for all services, and finally compelling them to work for nothing the moment they became unable to pay the labor commutation tax." [M. A. Harmm, in The Independent.J 1But the iron struck deeper yet in the lative soul. In Foreman's language: "As Spanish priest, the friar meddled in every public affair of the township, by recognized right. If he could not have things all his own way, and influence every pul)lic act, froml the election of village headmen down, he singled out for revenge all those who outvoted him. If a younlg man, educated in Manila or Hong-Kong, returned to his native town with somewhat advanced ideas, or merely saluted the priest as a gentleman instead of kissing his hand as lIis spiritual father, le also was marked for social ruin. X blieThe father of a faiiiil of attractive daughters had also to be careful, lest the charins of his offspring I)ring about his own fall. In short, in one way or another the native wnlo, possessed anythinrg Torth lhaving had either to yield to the avarice, the lust or insolence of the Spanislh priest, or risk losingl his cap;it liberty and pLosition in life. A parish priest had simply to addlress an 'official advice' to the governor of the, province, who wouild remit It sc ee g it to the Governor-General, stating that hlie lhad reason to believe that the inmdiOR OLD MANILA viduals mIentionedl in the rt to the American soldiers rnargin were cliaracters of doulbtful morality or conspirators or disloyal, or whatever else he chose to dub them, and would recollmend their removal from the parish. In due course. a couple of civil guards would suddenly a)pp)ear at the door of each individual named. Without warrant orT explanation of any kind further titan that it was 'by order of the governor,' lie was marched off to the capital town and placed in prison. Later he was sent up to Manila, and without trial, without even a defined sentence, he was banished to a distant island." It is scarcely exaggeration to say the dearest personal and family rights of the common man were in the keeping of the friars. A deep significance attached to the Associated Press dispatch from Manila, dated July 23, 1899: "A. ONE OF THE LARGER GATEWAYS INTO THE WALLED CITY, The natives have peddled out their vegetables, milk, etc., in large pa] ment in money from every male citizen, and here was the supply source for these requisitions. Not only carpenter-work, bricklaying, plastering and general housework were exacted, but also "the cooking of meals for the workmen, the keeping of time and labor accounts, the quarrying of stone, the cutting of timber, the making of roads along which materials were to be transported, the making and repairing of the wagons for transportation, the training and tending of carabaos as draft animals, in short every industry and sub-industry in any way connected with the building of a church, a rectory, or any other ecclesiastical edifice. Thus, in many districts, was presented the spectacle of a rich church owning miles of rich territory rented at highest possible prices to native SPANISH ADMINIS TRA TIVE METHODS 117 Filipino priest named (regorie Agripay, now witl the insurgents, is trying to lead a movement for the ill(eependence of the church in the Philippines from the Splanish priesthood. Ile has issued a proclamation declaring himself the vicar-general of all the 'Filipino priests in the districts outside of American control on the island of Luzon, and is inciting the priests to disobey the regulations of the church and the brotherhoods. The Archbishop of Manila has sent out a bull excommunicating Agripay, and this action has intensified the feeling between the Filipinos and the church." The Filipinos are in earnest. ADMIRAL MONTOJO'S FLAG-SHIP WHEN DEWEY WAS DONE WITH IT Wreck of the steel cruiser Reina Marie Christina SPANISHI ADMINISTRATIVE METHODS Wl-:XHILIE tie proportion of land under cultivation thlroughout tie Philippines that the orders have been holding does not probably exceed four per cent, in value it may be double that; and in Luzon, the Tagal homeland, the percentage both of area and value is exceptionally large. The natives had other grievances, and unfortunately when UTncle Samuel steppled into the Spaniard's most royal shoes he could not quite l-prge himself of the Spaniard's ancient rIaloldol. The Filipino's state of mind can only be understood by knowing what the Filipino has gone througlh with. Thle two main factors in the decline of Spanish rule ever-whlere have been religious despotism and official greed. The Philippines have borne the full brunt of both. The aim of the officials was to make money, and to make it as fast as possible. Corrupt themselves, it was impossil)le their subordinates should not lbe the same. From high to low it was a game of grab, one hand robbing the native and the other the crown. Hence, the currency among the foreign traders of the grim epigram of the elder Dumas, "What Spain possesses is honor without honesty, religion without morality, pride without one thing to be proud of." The Governor-General's annual salary was $40,000, but Weyler made a million or more during each of his three years, and kindly saw to it, besides, that his brothers, after two or three seasons in the cigar-making business, were able to go back to Spain each a rich man. The governors of the provinces, giving to their official duties two or three hours a day, were allowed $600 a year, with no fees or other legal perquisites; yet it was not unusual for them to retire at the end of a single triennial term with a fortune. Forced contributions were levied on the salaries of minor officials and of clerks. 118 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND Regimental paymasters and commissaries sold government stores for their own profit. Judges and court officials borrowed from attorneys large sums which were never repaid, and were never expected to be. Some Governor-Generals took an almost open part in smuggling Mexican dollars into the country, and they shared heavily in the profits, though the law stringently forbade coin importations. Valualle monopolies, under the name of concessions, were sold for a mere song; the sole privilege of manufacturing beer, with immunity from all taxation, brought the public treasury only a hundred and twenty dollars a year. was notorious among shippers and seamen for the chicanery and endless and puerile annoyances in official vogue, and valuable trade was in consequence diverted elsewhere. Fines were multiplied and ilmpo)sedl on every possible pretext, since office-holders received, under the law, a large share of them. A single bale, a sheep, or even a cobblestone too many or too few, in verifying a cargo by its manifest, meant a fifty or one hundred dollar fine. A few pounds over or short in the weight was equally disastrous. The saying went among the foreign merchants that the church lived off the natives, and the officials off the importers. ADMIRAL MONTOJO'S OTHER FLAG-SHIP AT THE CLOSE OF THE BATTLE To the gunboat Isla de Cuba, here shown, the Spanish admiral transferred his flag from the sinking Reina Marie Christina. Its wreck, as also others, was raised and repaired, and it has been put in commission by the United States The Manila custom-house reeked with corruption. The value of its records for comparison and other purposes has unquestionably been impaired by false returns of both imports and exports, that were necessary to cover up official stealings. Merchants were continually obliged to make presents to the wives of high officials; in one notorious case the lady was waited on with two splendid pairs of bracelets that she might have her choice, and she kept both. Browbeating, trickery and bribe-taking made up half the examiners' daily routine, while the other half was enlivened with outright confiscations, which the government might or might not ever hear of. The port There were a few others who lived off botll. To the king of Spain was sent perhaps one twelfth the revenue that honest administration would have secured for him. Thousands went for maintaining consuls at Iong-Kong and other Far East ports, who did not and could not render any equivalent to the Philippine service. Out of the Manila treasury pensions and allowances were appropriated, in Madrid, to persons who never came within a month's sail of the China sea; as, for instance, to the doughty Duke of Veragua, the same who escorted the Infanta to the Columbian Exposition, at Chicago, in the fond hope of a fat pension from the United States, because he OTHER TIME-HONORED SPANISH WAYS 119 could prove by long clronologies tlat he had Chl1ristopher (olumbus, not to mention Adam, for ancestor. Yet Madri:d did not wholly blink its obligations to the little brown people ten thousand miles away; and to do that became harder than ever when Madrid's colony of rich Filipinos began to publish a newspaper, in the early nineties, to agitate for constitutional reforms in their own land. The pueblo schools establisled by royal decree, 1)oor as they were, eventuated in great benefits. In 1882 the heartless government monopoly of raising and imanufacturing tobacco, after enduring for a century and a year, was swept away, thanks to the noble endeavors of one clear-headed, decent official at Manila, Minister of Finance Agius, who carried his point at last by enlisting the influence of the friars. In 189)3 went forth, with a great flourish of trumpets, a royal decree reorganizing local administration throughout the Philippines, the Minister of the Colonies, whose measure it was, plumning himself on its liberality in giving the natives such full control of their local affairs. And what was the Spanish idea of self-government? Cities being so few in the Philippines, village govern mient is the administrative and social unit, and the scheme for village government provided that one half of the twelve electors on whom the duty devolved of choosing the local officers should be persons already holding a subordinate office, and appointed by the Spanish governor of the province; it intrusted all responsibility to a Municipal Captain, who must also cole from- the same class; required the village priest to be present at all elections and important meetings, so as to be able to certify the proceedings officially; gave to the Municipal Captain the power to suspend, and to the governor to rescind the acts of the Municipal Tribune, the local board of affairs; and finally empowered the Governor-(General to either abolish the Municipal Tribnne, or remove offensive members and appoint others, at his pleasure. The natives were greatly pleased when government by Municipal Tribunes was decreed them; but the hollowness of the scheme soon became apparent, and then their representatives in the Municipal Tribune sank into apathy and disgust, or began to plot sedition. In this very school it was that Aguinaldo received revolutionary training, lbesides gaining administrative experience. OLD SPANISH PRISON, MANILA OTHER TIME-HONORED SPANISH WAYS C LOSIER to the people at large, llowever, came the abluses connected with the courts. The )epartment of Justice, costing the colony not much short of $4{00,000 annually, on paper was a model, and yet thle courts, in their actual workings, became engines of injustice and( oppression. They were simply rotten. Brib)ery was universal, and without it the best case was hopeless. No litigant could ever be sure of seeing his cause finally disposed of. It was likely to drag on indefinitely, or if acted on by some miracle of luck, to be reopened by some other judge who scented a fee in it. Charges of capital crime even, notwithstanding a previous acquittal, were liable to be taken up again; a handsome present to the new judge was the only safety. Foreign merchants in Manila were accustomed to make almost any sacrifice rather than go into court and face years of delay and expense. A loss they could measure, but not the fees. 120 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND Venality was not all. C(odes had so multiplied that no one hardly could be sure of his footing, for a contrary precedent might upset him, no matter how clear the principle involved. A jealous and litigious character without a penny could persecute his enemy to the verge of want, by trumping up some accusation or other, and coupling it with a "declaration of poverty;" the courts would do the rest for the pickings at cost of the defendant. There was no inheritance tax, yet so complicated was tle legal machinery that it was very difficult to get possession of a legacy without some private financial arrangement with the law officials. Persons of means regarded lawsuits as a calamity, knowing the courts would keep proceedings grinding away so long as there was a dollar in sight. — *~-LII_~~~-~-~-~~L-4 —~ —........ I *r r 'r to tax the exception. All classes felt it. The rich had to endure blackmailing under the polite intimation theywere in peril of being reported as disaffected, while the poor were openly stripped to rags and wretchedness. The tobacco monopoly came to an end, but up went the duty on cigars. When the coffee trade gave signs of becoming important, an extra license was placed on coffee-planting, and a heavy import duty on the machinery it required. Peddler and princely merchant paid their varying "patente" for the right to do business. Iowever, that cockingmains and the opium privilege were farmed out to the highest bidder was no hardship to the people in general, nor that lotteries were free from tax, as being owned by the government. The stamp tax on legal documents ranged from twenty-five cents up to some -;-;;:i ddollars. No citizen could communicate in writin]( with any of the authorities without using stamped paper. HTateful in the extremne ~=J1. ll was the i)oll-tax, the "cednla," whiclih furnishled two tllirds of te internal re — ES OMenuie of thie islands; hatefill less for its amountt$1.25 to $25, according to occiupatio n and station in life-than for the annoyances and outrage to ]whiclh it gave rise. The cedula receil)t b)eing also a docutnent of identity, like a assport, no official wiould listen to what a native had to say who did not first produce it. iAroe to the farmer or the peasant w ho went to EETS OF MANILA the fields, thle laborer to his taslk, or tile coachman to his stand, without iutting it in his pocket. Any monent a l)race of civil guards might pounce upon him, and in default of a douceur to them personally, carry him off to jail, its doors to open only when he left it an impressed recruit for the Moro wars in _Mindanao or Sulu. Odious also was the fifteen days' forced labor previously referred to, with its worry and its official cheating, the latter coming about through the governor of the province reporting more "polista" as having worked out the tax than actullay did so, and pocketing the cash commutation the rest had paid. With a high hand and an outstretched arm officials of every grade mnaintained the dignity of Spain, while Courtesy of Andreae and Reeves NATIVE MECHANICS CARRYING A ROOF THROUGH THE STRI By taxation, arbitrary arrests and punishment, and ferocious vengeance, the Filipino's cup of misery was filled to the brim. Every year saw some onerous tax newly imposed. Customs duties were raised repeatedly, and each time some articles previously exempt were made to pay. There was an export tax on sugar, hemp and other products; a port tax also, a license tax on all trades and professions, a tax on horses and vehicles, stamp tax, capitation tax, a tax on all animals slaughtered, a tax on the hand-looms the women used in weaving during their spare time; taxes on sugar, rice and oil mills, and on ships, boats and lighters: in short, taxation seemed the rule, and not OTHER TIME-HONORED SPANISH WA YS 121 them-selves robbing the government at every turn. rTrotugh the country the civil guards on mounted ]latrol duty were hardly less dreaded, at times, than brigainds. Miserably poor, the common people had to submit to see the patrols steal a pair of chickens or ducks, or a little tobacco or sugar, which was a loss to le felt, and if occurring several times a season worked downrigllt hardship. Had any one a particllarly fine pony? An official would meet him on the street and demand to see his license, and unless every requirement could le met on the spot the pony must be surrendered, and the robbed native get home any way he could. This power of confiscation was a age, objected to certain officials cutting wood off her property without paying for it; she had been in prison eight years when, after due investigation, the American official having cognizance of such affairs released her. Among the hundreds of others whom he freed were many who had been long shut up without trial or without sentence, including a number concerning whom the official record was "No charge expressed." Once in prison, these unfortunates seemed as much forgotten as prisoners in the dungeons of the Middle Ages. A favorite charge was insulting or resisting the armed forces of Spain, supported it might be by such slecifications as failing to one day carry grass FORMER SPANISH BARRACKS ON CORREGIDOR ISLAND With a glass the towers of Manila churches can be seen from hereabouts across the bay dreadful club in the hands of an avaricious governor or a goaded tax-collector. It made beggars of thousands, and the victims had no recourse. As for those who had no chattels to be seized, Professor Worcester tells of a Spanish official on the island of Panay that caught delinquent tax-payers, tied them to trees, then set vicious dogs upon them; and Stevens describes the mourning over a slilp-load of young Tagals who were drowned in the China sea, en route to distant wars, for which they had been drafted as a punishment for the same thing. Arrests were continually made on puerile or malicious grounds. A wealthy woman, fifty-two years of to an officer's horse, or milk to an officer's mess, as agreed, or having had a few loose cartridges on hand, which last, whether in man or woman, was a particularly heinous offense. Another crime alleged in many cases was belonging to the Katipunan, a secret revolutionary society supposed to be in alliance with the persecuted Free Masons. Some were in prison "on suspicion" merely. Against the women held for court-martial, whenever the Governor-General might happen to think upon them, were such charges as encouraging soldiers to desert or harboring deserters, but the most common was that of "sacrilege"'-stealing a chalice from some church, or the like. This 122 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND seemed to be the denouncement when nothing else came handy, and the chances were even that it was pure spite-work on the cura's part. The inhuman dealings with prisoners, to extort confession or for punishment, is a picture on which tile veil may well be drawn. Burning, smothering, disemboweling, mutilating, and torturing in many ways, all had place in the ghastly catalogue. Along the sides of Aguinaldo's reception-room at his itinerant capitals were kept a series of skillful carvings illustrating, in miniature, various methods of torture and abuse to which his people had been subjected at the friars' instigation, and similar carvings received official examination by Americans in high places. AGUINALDO AND TIIE INSURRECTION OF 1896 T I E Governor-General previously referred to, Despujols, was an eminent example of how a just administrator might be overborne for selfish ends, by an incorrigible bulreaucracy and the friars. The Filipinos idolized him as their savior, and when lie left, recalled by cable, an innumnerable nmultitude crowded the shore to wave farewells, and every steamer belonging to the port accompanied himrn far out to sea. This was late in 189'. By the year 1895 ominous whisperings began to circulate at Manila, noting among other things the peculiar night fires seen high lp on the mountain-sides in the interior, and suddenly going out. MIen sllook their heads at mention of the gath- 3 ering strength of the Katipunan, or League of Blood, the secret revolutionary society that the government hlad striven in vain, 1b craft andi cruelty, to stamp out. That in the financially important lmestizo-Chino class certain individuals were known to be Photo by Mee Chleung, Iionig-I seriously llisaffected was a fact working both ways; for, though with characteristic cunning these kept in the background, many high-grade natives, rather than affiliate in any way with so despised an element, at first held aloof. Considering how feeble class distinctions are in Manila, the extent to which it makes a virtue of racial antipathies is remarkable. The agitation set on foot by the rich mestizoes and creoles at Madrid for colonial reform was a flat failure, the only significant response it called forth being that political rights were gained not by begging, but by fighting for them-a brutal rebuff that largely decided the course of some. In August, 1896, the expected happened. A revolution broke ott in the province of Cavite, and in the following December Governor-General Blanco, unwilling to lend himself to a policy of indiscriminate vengeance, was replaced by Polavieja,and the latter in a few mnontlhs 1b Rivera. MLeanwhile the leadership of the revolt, the f ury of which astonished everybody, had graduallybeen taken by a y oulng Tagal with some training in Spanisll military tactics,a small landed proprietor of Inus, his native pueblo in ('avite province, naned Emilio Aguinaldo, vwho ten years blefore had been a plodding student at the threshold of tile Univcrsity at MIanila, and later was the "little g-overnor" of his town, and then its municipal captain. Aguinaldo was born about 1870. Hle is deserilwed as weighing scarcely one hundred pounds, lieing undersized for even a Tagal. Tlihe accounts that made himl teachl a term or two in a ])ilel)lo school p)ossib)ly confounded him with his cousin, naldo Sll-t tlBaldomnero Aouinaldo, who was a pedagogue for years. One legend respecting him se riis thlat when a Spanish officer c/hose. with a file of native soldiery came to apprehend hinim Aguinaldo shliot the officer with his pistol, then turned to the amazed squad and made them an impassioned address, with such effect that they decided to quit the service of their Spanish oppressors, and on the spot chose him their captain for revolutionary service. His ascendancy over the minds of his countrymeen cannot be lightly explained away. The superstition thlat held him to be an anting-man helped with the more ignorant, but his reputation for courage and generalship counted for vastly more, swaying all classes. Judged Kou AGUINALDO AND THE INSURRECTION OF 1896 123 by the test of adapting limited means to comprehensive ends Aguinaldo's cal)acity could not be doubted. The Tagals trusted him implicitly, and the seriousmindedness which he brought to his undertaking makes a creditable contrast with many later flippant references to him on the part of uninformed people. 14, 1897, was signed the treaty of Biacnabato, the outcome of which General Francis V. Greene, in an official report to the American government, summarized (September, 1898) as follows: "It required that Aguinaldo and the other insurgent leaders should leave the country, the government agreeing to pay otograph sent to Washington by the Filipino Junta OPENING OF THE FILIPINO CONGRESS AT MALOLOS, SEPTEMBER 15, 1898 Aguinaldo occupies the chair behind the table. The sessions were held in the village church, which later was burned out The struggle continued more than fifteen months, when, notwithstanding the reinforcements that had come from Spain, amounting to nearly thirty thousand men, Governor-General Rivera had so wearied of it that he induced a wealthy native of Manila, named Paterno, to negotiate a peace. On December named Paterno, z n I VUVV them $800,000 in silver, and promising to introduce numerous reforms, including representation in the Spanish Cortes, freedom of the press, amnesty for all insurgents and.the expulsion or secularization of the monastic orders. Aguinaldo and his associates went to Hong-Kong and Singapore. A portion of the 124 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND money-$400,000-was deposited in a HIong-Kong bank, and a lawsuit shortly arose between Aguinaldo and one of his subordinate chiefs, named Artacho, which is interesting on account of the very honorable position taken by Aguinaldo. Artacho sued for a division of the money among the insurgents, according to rank. Aguinaldo claimed that the money was a trust fund, and was to remain on deposit until it was seen whether the Spaniards would carry out their promised reforms, and if they failed to do so it was to be used to defray the expenses of a new insurrection. The suit was settled out of court by paying Artacho $5,000. No steps were taken to introduce the reforms, more than two thousand insurgents who had been victory, it took Aguinaldo and seventeen evolutionary chiefs on board, and brought Manila bay. They landed at Cavite, and Dewey allowed them to take such guns, tion and stores as he did not require for himTith these and some other arms which he had from Hong-Kong Aguinaldo armed his folwho rapidly assembled at Cavite, and in a 'ks he began moving against the Spaniards. them surrendered, giving him more arms, and?rs retreated to Manila. Soon afterward two he private property of Senor Agoncillo 'and isurgent sympathizers, were converted into and sent with insurgent troops to Subig bay and other places to capture provinces outside of Manila. They were very successful, the native imilitia in Spanish service capitulating with their arms in nearly every case without serious resistance. 1B e tween 2,000 anad 3,000 native troops in the Spanisth service sturrendered in tihe months of June and July. Insurgent forces constantly annoyed and harassed the Spaniards in thse trenches, keeling them up at night and N wearing them out with fatigue; and they invested Manila, early in July, so completely that all sul)plies were cut off. They captured the waterworks of Manila, and cut off the water supply, it had been in the dry season would have great suffering on the inhabitants for lack r." It was in June that Admiral Dewey that the success of the insurgents had been ul. The Spaniards put a price of $25,000 on do's head, yet later made him overtures, it, to gain his assistance against the Americans.?haracter sketch written for Harper's Weekly lhristmas, 1898, Edwin Wildman, United Tice-Consul-General at Hong-Kong, who had visit to Aguinaldo's headquarters at Malolos, A man must be judged by his environments, patriots, his race. Aguinaldo is not a Napor a Washington; neither is he a Tecumseh or 1ret;b brs 11 Unitea -itat es 14D0pit,> kio PD FILIPINO PEASANTRY OF INTERIOR LUZON Compared with their American guards they appear as dwarfs deported to Fernando Po and other places were still kept in confinement, and Aguinaldo is now using the money to carry on the operations of another insurrection. "On the twenty-fourth of April Aguinaldo met the United States consul and others at Singapore," continues General Greene, "and offered to begin a new insurrection in conjunction with the operations of the United States navy at Manila. This was telegraphed to Commodore Dewey at Hong-Kong, and, by his consent or at his request, Aguinaldo left Singapore for Hong-Kong on April 26th, and when the dispatch-boat Hugh McCulloch returned to HongKong early in May to carry the news of Commodore AGUIN.ALDO AND THE INSURRECTION OF 1896 125 Sitting Bull. He is simply Aguinaldo. That he loves pomp and show, ludicrous though it seems to the American, cannot condemn him to the showy nobility of the kingdom that taught his people to reverence gold braid and plumed cockades, nor to the gaudy monarchies of the Old World, nor to our own bemedaled, brass-buttoned and gold-chevroned army and navy. The cost of all the insignias of his three hundred officers would not equal the expenditure for the full-dress regalia I have seen worn by the English colonial governor at Hong-Kong. His much advertised gold collar pales into insignificance in comparison with those worn by British dignitaries. That Aguinaldo takes himself seriously never fails to arouse the amused smile of a foreigner; but if we set that ent height. Ile was neatly dressed in a suit of fine pina-cloth of native manufacture, and as he stood there, straight and dignified, one hand resting on his desk, despite his under-size and mock-heroic surroundings, he impressed ne as the possessor of a will and determination equal to great tasks, and I made up my mind then and there that he was genuine. "There is surely something out of the ordinary in a man born in the wilds of an outlying island, uncultured, untraveled, who possesses the power to inspire men to heroism and self-sacrifice; who can muster an army out of men who never fought but with the knife or the bow and arrow; who can hold in check the violent passions for revenge, plunder and destruction in a race which has never known anything but cruelty At, I I -I,-,'-" -.-, jft,-7, Reeves ERMITA, ONE MILE SOUTH OF THE WALLED CITY Over this stretch of ground the American troops advanced to take Manila, August 13, 1898 same representative of a higher civilization down in the presence of the Tagal chieftain at Malolos headquarters the smile will vanish from his face, and he will begin to ask himself why lie feels ashamed at his thoughts... Against the wall back of his desk, in the convent that he has taken for headquarters at Mlalolos, is the big Spanish flag that once hung over the palace in the old walled city, and was captured in a skirmish. 'Thousands have been offered as a bribe for that flag,' said Aguinaldo, 'lut I wouldn't take twenty-five thousand pesos.' There was nothing in the leader's dress to suggest his rank, yet a glance at the serious, bronzed countenance impresses one. His head is large and sets well upon his rather slight body. His hair is the Tagal's rich, shiny black; it is combed pompadour, somewhat enhancing his appar and oppression from the white man, and which does not forget that the soil must be tilled and the crops harvested, and that there is a God in heaven who will listen to the petition of a Tagal cura and will reject the mock prayers of a Franciscan pharisee. In Malolos the natives tell you that Aguinaldo never sleeps. While the Filipino requires his siesta from twelve o'clock until three, and the priest from twelve until five, Aguinaldo grapples with the problems of war and peace. Over a thousand miles of telegraph wires (captured from the Spanish) terminate at his desk. His flag flies over every group of huts, every petty pueblo, and every junk and barge that plies the rivers and bays of Luzon, and it is not a stranger among the southern islands.... Whatever the outcome of our policy in the Philippines may be, the _1__, r.~~- ~~- -... -— i v~es FILIPINO CELEBRATION OF INDEPENDENCE, IN SEPTEMBER, 1898, AT MALOLOS, THEN THE INSURGENT CAPITAL The procession, with Aguinaldo and his cabinet in carriages at its head, is about passing under a triumphal arch and over the stone bridge FOREIGN THEORIES AND PHILIPPINE DEVELOPMENTS 127 islands w-ill ever owe a deblt of deel) gratitude to Agninaldo. Ile has made life and p)roperty safe, preserve(l orlder andl encouranged a contilluation of agrictultural and ind(lstrial pursuits. lie has made b)rigandage and loot iinl)ossible, resplected(l )rivate p)roperty, for)iidd(l excess, either in revenle or in the name of the state, and has made woman's lhonor safer in LIuzon tlhan it lhas been for thlree hundred years. Hlad not Agnuinaldo gone to Luzon as our guest, he would have gone any way sooner or later; or had he not gone a hundred Aguinaldos of inferior character would have sprung up all over tile islands, brigandage would have l)een rampant, and fire, pillage and murder wolld lhave laid desolate the fertile valleys and the villages. In the eighteen days between Dewey's victory and thle arrival of Aguinaldo at Cavite this state of affairs was actually beginning. It was no light responsibility that Aguinaldo accepted in then becoinillg the sponsor of peace, order and good name of his pleoplle, as tile accounts of all the officers show." FOREIGN THEORIES AND PHII ILIPPINE DEVELOPMENTS ATIVE' incapacity for self-government has been the fixed and universal blelief among the foreign mercllants of Manila. (Contributing to an EInglish mlagazine, Foreman accurately expressed their feeling: "T'le Philippine islands would not remain one year a peaceful, united archipelago under an inde-. pendent native government. It is an utter impossibility. There is such racial antipathy that thle Vis-. ayans would not in this generation sllulbit to what they would always consider a Tlagalog -relubllic, and the Tagals, having procured the overthrow of the Speaniards, would naturally resent a prel)onderance of Visayan influence. Families there are veryv closely united(, ut as a people they have little idea of union. The existing rivalry for prestige l-etween one village and anotlier on the same coast is sufficient to prove the tendency to disintegrate. The native likes to localize, to bring everythino he requires or aslpires to withiii his own sumall circle. His idleas are not expansive and far-reachina. Then the question arises, lWho would b)e thle electors? The imasses, decidedly too ignorant to vote intelligently, wolld l)e controlle(l by cliques of land-owners. Even if a native republic (lid succeed, it would1 not b)e strong enoughll to FEMA p)rotect itself against foreign aggression. I entertain thle firm conviction that an unprotected( native rel)blllc would last only until the novelty of thle situation had worn off. Then I think every lprincipal island would, in turn, declare its inclep)endence. Finally there would lle complete chaos. A protectorate under a strong nation is just as necessary to insure good administration in the islands as to protect them against foreign attack." As tile Filipino-American war dragged on comment could not l)e withheld from the fact that the insurgent factions still pulled together. The attitude of the hoine-staying natives was what the attitude of the peasantry in Cuba had been toward Si-ain. "In every part of the islands where our ships have gonle," wrote John F. Bass, June 12, 1899, for Harper's Weekly, "they have found only hostile natives, -who acknowledge no allegiance save to the insurgent governement. We find it of the utmost difficulty to get guides to show us the way. Experienced native pilots on our gunboats suddenly become igonorant of the character of the lake, the river and the bay, and unexpectecdlly forget the position of the sand-bars. The authorities actually believe that the masses are tired of the insurrection, and would like to come under American rule if they could only get rid of their chiefs and their army. And yet the half-past-eight-o'clock rule is still on in Manila, and everybody must be indoors, because an uprising in the town has still to be guarded against. The sooner the people of the United AMIGO States find out that the people of the Philippines do not wish to be governed by us the better they will be fitted to cope with the great problem out here." M\'ajor-General MacArthur was credited by H. I. HIancock, a Mlanila correspondent of The Criterion, with the following: "When I first started in against these rebels I believed that Aguinaldo's troops repre LLE 128 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND sented only a faction. I did not like to believe that the whole native population of Luzon was opposed to us and our offers of aid and good government. But I have been reluctantly compelled to believe that the Filipino masses are loyal to Aguinaldo and the government which he heads. It is beyond any question that these amigos (friendly natives) know much about the movements and plans of the insurgents. They could tell me where the insurgents are to be found in greater force, where Aguinaldo gets his food supplies, ing in each village or pueblo locally known as the Tribunal, and the churches and convents. From these they send out details to man the trenches. Their food while on duty consists of rice and banana-leaves, cooked at the quarters and sent out to the trenches. After a few days or a week of active service they return to their homes to feed up or work on their farms, their places being taken by others, to whom they turn over their guns and cartridges. They have no artillery except a few antique columbiads obtained from Cavite, and no cavalry. Their method of warfare is to dig a trench in front of the Spanish position, covering it I. I PLOWING THE SUGAR-LANDS OF PAMPANGAS PROVINCE, LUZON and the number of the enemy at various points. I)o you think they are doing it? Neither by threats, promises, offers of reward nor assurances of safety can I persuade one of these amigos to talk against < the insurgent cause. No art that we are master of will get any information from them. At first I attributed this reticence to fear of Aguinaldo's vengeance; but it cannot be that, for the most stupid of these natives within our lines must now realize that Aguinaldo can never hope to take Manila." While the little half-naked fightSTREET IN ers Aguinaldo had summoned to his standard in 1898 were admittedly of great assistance to the American forces operating against Manila, they could hardly be dignified with the name of an army. "Their equipment," reported General Greene (September, 1898), "consists of a gun, bayonet and cartridge-box; their uniform of a straw hat, gingham shirt and trousers, and bare feet; their transportation of a few ponies and carts, impressed for a week at a time. For quarters they occupy the public build SAN FERNANDO, AGUINALDO'S NEXT CAPITAL AFTER MALOLOS with mats as a protection against the sun and rain, and during the night put their guns on top of the trenches, above their heads, and fire in the general direction of the enemy." With little of drill and less of discipline the Filipinos, of course, stood no chance against the dash, the skill and invincible determination of the Americans, whose artillery would alone have made the contest tactically unequal. Perhaps they were handi NATIVE ESSAYS IN CIVIL ADMINISTRATION 129 capped worst of all 1)y the utter unfamliliarity of the most of them w ith the use and mechanism of firearms. Successive encounters tended to lessen this (lisparity. In a letter, written June 26(, 1899, to the Chicago Tribune, R. 11. Little said: "The insurgents have three factories where they manufacture cartridges. The papers in Manila have continually referred to the fact that they were prone to slhoot too high, and they seem finally to have learned the lesson, for now they are getting their shots well down, showing great improvement in marksmanship. They also fight in h)etter formation. War is a terrible school, but it is a school just the same, and we seem to be teaching the Filipinos many tricks at our own expense." NATIVE ESSAYS IN CIVII ADMINISTRATION B UT in reviewing the Filipino attempt at selfgovernment, the deepest interest for a thoughtful mind attaches to their civil administration, and of this only meager items have found their way into print. Their system was founded, of course, on Spanish models, for they knew no other. The transitional nature of the scheme of government originally pro for its sole end justice, and for its sole means honorable labor, it calls all Filipinos its sons without distinction of class, and invites them to unite firmly with the object of forming a noble society, not based upon blood or pompous titles, but upon the work and personal merit of each one-a free society where exist neither egotism nor personal politics, which annihi A HOME OF WEALTH IN MANILA The group consists of Brigadier-General Charles King, the widely read novelist, and his staff mulgate(d by Aguinaldo was avowed in a somewhat late and crush; neither envy nor favoritism, which overwroulght proclamation of June 23, 1898: "There debase; neither fanfaronade nor charlatanism, which has been established a revolutionary government, are ridiculous." under wise and just laws, suited to the abnormal cir- "An examination of Aguinaldo's decree setting cumnstances through which the country is passing, and forth a scheme of government," as General Greene which, in proper time, will prepare it for a true repub- considered, "shows that it provides a dictatorship of lie. Thus, taking as a sole model for its acts reason, the familiar South American type. All power is cen9 130 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND tered in the president, and he is not responsible to any one for his acts. He is declared to be 'the personification of the Philippine public, and in this view cannot be held responsible while he holds office; his term will last until the revolution triumphs.' He appoints not only the heads of the departments, but all their subordinates, and without reference to Congress. The latter body is composed of a single chamber of representatives from each province. It is to deliberate on 'all grave and transcendental questions, whose decision admits of delay and adjournment, but the president may decide questions of urgent character, giving the reasons for his decision in a message to Congress.' The acts of Congress are governor of the province to have a new election to fill the vacancy. Another letter was a complaint against a certain local officer for maladministration, setting forth the charges in legal form and duly signed. The numerous papers concerning school-teachers' appointments showed that arrangements had already been perfected for the education of the youth on a large scale. The Filipino is very anxious to learn, and the native government has used every effort to start afresh the pueblo schools. The school-buildings in San Jose being held by the American forces, a private school is flourishing in a native hut. "Resuming the statement of what we found at the insurgent headquarters, there were deeds of property, records of births and deaths, etc.; also meteorological and other scientific instruments and records. Aguinaldo's organization is at least not a laughable farce. Letters dated February 4th, from Malolos, ' t ~;; showed that they had a good courier system. A book on tactics, engravings of several uniforms, beautiful topographical maps, copies of the iPhilippine Declaration of Indepenl ence and (Constitution, military and other official seals, and similar articles, all went to show that labor and intelligence were united in their production. "From my residence and official military position during the past month in the town of San Jose has been gained a furtherinsight into the native method of government. The ruler of the village, formerly called the 'little governor,' is continued under another name, and is directly responsible to the ruler of the province, whose title is 'the governor.' His duties are to promptly punish all offenders except for major offenses, which come under the sole jurisdiction of the governor, to whom all dangerous prisoners are sent. Each village contains the old-fashioned stocks and whipping-posts, which have been worn smooth by much usage. The petty criminals are confined in the jail at night, and during the day they clean the streets and do other public work; and this work is well done, for nearly all the towns we have seen are well ditched and kept quite clean. The village ruler also keeps a written record of everything pertaining to the public interests -births, deaths, inventories of real estate, transfers of property, ownership of live stock and everything else that is taxable-all neatly registered. PETTY OFFENDERS IN THE VILLAGE STOCKS not binding, it is expressly said, until approved by the president, and he has the power of absolute veto." As repeatedly stated, the village government has continued to be the administrative unit throughout the Philippines. "When we reached the insurgent headquarters at Santa Ana," wrote Lieutenant Henry Page, February 25, 1899, for the Chicago Record, "we found some of the machinery of Aguinaldo's government. Among the papers scattered about in confusion by the retreating officials were a lot of telegrams, letters and commissions. One letter was from a pueblo official asking to be -relieved from his duties, a surgeon's certificate being inclosed. It had been forwarded through official channels to Aguinaldo's Secretary of State, and returned, with abundant indorsements, approved. With it was an order to the NATIVE ESSA YS IN CIVIL ADMINISTRATION 131 "Since the Filipino war began it has been impossible for our small-pox phlysicians in Manila to get young carabaos for their vaccine farm, and I was requested to find some for them. I went to the chief local official to see what could be done, and to my astonishment he produced a paper containing an exact list of all the live stock in the district, and even giving the exact age of each animal. The village official second in importance is the tax-collector. The records above mentioned serve this individual in good stead, for it falls to his lot to collect taxes on every conceivable object, his chief supplying the list of same. The cedulas under Aguinaldo are precisely the same as those granted under Spanish rule. The village ruard, or police, are chosen at will by the people had a postal service in effect modeled exactly after that of the Spanish on the island. Each village or city had a chief called the local president, instead of, as formerly, the municipal captain or the earlier 'little governor.' It was made a part of the official duty of the local president to handle all mail, whether registered or ordinary; to provide carriers for taking the mails to the next village on the route, and to keep a record of such service; and to keep on hand a supply of stanmps, for which he paid cash, buying them of the Secretary of Haciendas at a slight discount. On the island of Cebu there were eight routes, covering about all the villages on the island. Every citizen is required to perform fifteen days' service each year for the government, and the only pay the messengers get for NATIVES FISHING ON THE PASIG RIVER, ABOVE SAN MIGUEL, MANILA They are about to let a large, square net down into the water, and will raise it with a rude crane village ruler, whlo each dlay designates a certain number of the men of the town to serve in this capacity. Tlie village officials all have their own distinctive badge of office, and the pride they take in it looks ridiculous to American eyes. Aguinaldo enjoys the high and sole prerogative of carrying a gold-headed cane with a gold tassel." The Director of Posts at Manila officially reported to the Postimaster-General at Washington, under date of April 8, 1899: "When our forces took possession of the town of Cebu it was done contrary to the wishes of the Filipino officials in charge, but without armed opposition. Native officials continued for a time to administer all departments, except that of the captain of the port and the Cebu post-office. These carrying the mail is that such service is credited to his account against the fifteen days due. As the trip to the next village is credited as a day's work, and is much easier than a full day's work on the highways, bridges or public buildings, the mail service is much sought after, and there is a regulation to the effect that no citizen can perform more than six days' work as mail-carrier in one year. One carrier takes the mail for fifteen or twenty towns, showing the small amount there is to carry. In one dispatch of thirteen letters that I saw all were official. Every boat leaving a port was obliged to carry the mail." Aguinaldo, in August, 1899, was collecting tariff duties at several ports in Luzon. In September he issued paper money to the amount of $3,000,000. 132 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND THE GREAT FIRE OF INSURGENT ORIGIN DESTROYING TONDO, THE NATIVE QUARTER This scene was photographed at daylight, February 23, 1899 OPENING OF THE FILIPINO-AMERICAN WAR B ETWEEN July, 1898, and February, 1899, the barefoot, half-naked Filipinos in the trenches at Manila changed from allies of the Americans to rivals, and from rivals to sworn enemies fighting to the death. Time brought wider views and a further reaching perspective for both parties, and positions were gradually shifted until the Filipino was committed beyond recall to the demand for independence, a solution which the American government considered it imp)ossible to entertain. The clash of arms began at 8:45 o'clock on Saturday evening, February 4, 1899, under just what circunmstance has not been made entirely clear beyond its starting as a picket affair at a part of the American line (in all seventeen miles long) that was held by the First Nebraska, about a mile and a half east of Malacanan. Apparently the Filipinos were expecting it: at least they promptly commenced firing all along their great semicircle of intrenchments extending from Caloocan, on the railroad six miles north of Manila, to Paco on the south. With midnight came a lull that lasted four hours. Early next morning, Sunday, February 5th, Aguinaldo sent a staff officer to inform General Otis that the outbreak on the part of his people had been unauthorized by him, and to request that a neutral zone be established between the confronting lines. Gen eral Otis, apparently believing that Aguinaldo was playing for more time and better military position, tersely rellied that war having been commenced it mlust be fought to the bitter end. The Am-erican volunteers were already advancing, while the cruiser Charleston and gunboats Concord and (allao. in Manila bay, had opened fire on the insurgent line to the north of the city, and the monitor AMonadnock on the line to the south. During the day the Americans, pushing through rice-fields, bambnoo thickets and tangled undergrowths, carried several miles of intrenclments, and occupied a number of native villages immediately south and east of the city, being aided materially by the gunboat Laguna de Bay, which ascended the Pasig about five miles to Santa Ana, using its rapid-fire guns on both sides to clear the banks. The day's loss reached about two hundred and fifty for the Americans, and several times that number for the Filipinos. A vitally important movement was effected on the sixth, when the troops under Brigadier-General Hale captured the outlying waterworks at Santolan, with a loss of three each killed and wounded. In the city, meanwhile, there was natnrally great excitement, and the wives and children of the European residents had gone aboard the foreign vessels in the harbor. OPENING OF THE FILIPINO-AMERICAN WAR 133 The fighting of lebruary 5th proved something of a revelation to both sides. The Filipinos had imagined they could overwhelm the Americans and drive tlem into the walled city or the bay, while many of the boys in blue had felt sure of scattering the motley brown horde at the firing of the first gun. "In the Filipino trenches," said Lieutenant Page, in his letter previously quoted from, "we found exploded firecrackers, wooden toy guns and dummy cannon made of )bamboo, and we were inclined to laugh at their simplicity. Later we found they were not so simple as they seemed, but had merely failed to realize the difference between Spanish fighting and American fighting. The fire-crackers were to make the firing seem stronger; the bamboo cannon poked through their excellent trenches had a sinister look at two hulndred yards distant, and as for the wooden guns, they also helped to make a show of strength. When a rifleman was killed a native having a wooden gun would cease to hold it over the trenches, and would seize the real rifle, a scarce article in Aguinaldo's army. By these means the Fil- il}inos increased their show of strength, and indeed their real strength, for the toy rifleman, or the bolo-man, acted as a reserve, so that though many were killed, their line was not weakened." They removed their dead..x 7x s d. MAJOR-GENERAL ELWELL S. OTIS BRIGADIER-GENERA Having cleared the city's southern and eastern environs to a satisfactory distance,burned seven or eight villages to prevent reoccu_ Fra7. pation by the insurgents, and destroyed two stone churches whence the enemy had been firing, General Otis delivered his next blow to the north, where 10,000 Filipinos had concentrated at Caloocan (see map on page 67), and were offering altogether unexpected resistance. With Major-General L FREDERICK FUNSTON MacArthur in command, the American column started on February 7th. Colonel Funston's Kansas regiment charged a considerable body of the enemy, drove them into their intrenchments, and punished them severely. February 10th Caloocan was shelled for several hours, from Manila bay, by the Monadnock and Charleston, as well as by the artillery on land, and late in the afternoon it was occupied at the point of the bayonet, the retreating Tagals setting the town on fire. Malabon, near Caloocan, was shelled on the eleventh by the two vessels last named, and on the twelfth the enemy evacuated it. In Manila a threatening conspiracy was nipped in the bud by the arrest, on February 15th, of one hun(Ired and fifty ringleaders, in spite of which came the MAJOR-GENERAL ARTHUR MACARTHUR 134 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND incendiary night fires of February 22d (see page 103), with an attempted uprising in Tondo, bringing a night of terror and suspense for all Manila, and one of tremendous exertion for the meager force of American provost guards. Within the next three days twelve hundred additional arrests were made for suspected complicity in this plot. Dr. J. G. Schurman, Professor Dean C. Worcester and Honorable Charles Denby, constituting the civil members of the Philippine Commission sent out by President McKinley On the twenty-fifth the gunboat Petrel took the town of Cebu, on Cebu island, without forcible resistance, permanent occupation by troops following later. On March 17th General Lagarda, a mestizo of considerable prestige in Manila, made his way to Malolos, and obtaining an interview with Aguinaldo sought to convince him that further resistance to the Vnited States was useless. As the story goes, Aguinaldo listened to the end, then calmly ordered his guards to behead Lagarda, which they did. To resume consideration of the principal campaign, the detachments engaged in working their way eastward from Manila were withdrawn February 16th to convenient points upon and near the Pasig, General MacArthur needing all the men who could be sent him. In every affair pushed back without serious difficulty, the Filipinos were invariably met again within a few miles, and, owing to the increasing heat and the nature of the country, can)aigning against themn was extremely arduous work. t oupled with the necessity of allowing the troops intervals of rest, there had to be organized supply and ammIunition trains and a fieldhospital service, all under conditions entirely new to the Americans. Not until the twenty-sixth of March were the insurgents driven out of Polo, twelve miles VIANILA BAY north of Manila, after sharp ening Filipino lines fighting, in which MacArthur's casualties aggregated about two hundred, including the colonel of SIGNALING FROM THE TOWER OF CALOOCAN CHURCH TO A Spelling out a message to the monitor Monadnock over the interv( (the other members being General Otis and Admiral Dewey), arrived in Manila March 4th, and a month later the Commission issued its friendly proclamation to the natives, but without effecting any change in the situation. Meantime, on February 11th, Iloilo, the second port in the Philippines, had been occupied, the insurgents firing the town and retreating to some native towns near by. On February 24th a commission of four from Negros reached Manila, and pledged the island's allegiance to the United States, which led to sending a battalion there on the fourth of March. I the Twenty-second Infantry, Harry C. Egbert, who was killed. On the twenty-seventh Marilao, four miles north of Polo, was occupied after a further struggle, the reported casualties reaching about seventy. It was hoped the capture of Malolos, twenty-seven miles from Manila, and Aguinaldo's headquarters since September, would come near ending the revolt; but when the capture was effected, on March 31st, the insurgents simply withdrew to a stronger position at (alumpit, six and one half miles to the northwest. HOT- SEASON CAMPAIGNING 135 A PART OF LAWTON'S AMMUNITION-TRAIN, DRAWN BY CARABAOS, SOME OF WHICH GAVE OUT AND DIED IHOT-SEASON CAMPAIGNING WIHIILE MacArtlhurs men were resting at and up toward Malolos-their rest compllrising incessant vigilance, witl heavy details for outpost and other wearing duty-Major-(General Lawton (who had reached Manila MIarcll 1()th) conducted an expedition to the soltthern and eastern shores of Laguna de Bay, meeting no opposition of any consequence, the tiny gunboats, or "tinclads," of the Americans quickly dispersing such gathering of hostiles as could be found. Ile took Santa (rnz April 10th, and next day captlred a lot of barges and one Spanish gunboat on the lake. IUnexpectedly recalled by General Otis, he was obliged to abandon the towns he had taken, because of lack of men to garrison tlhem, but not until he had destroyed or rendered useless inanymiles of telegraph, thus making it difficult for the insurgent forces on the north to communicate with those on the south. Pursuant to orders the proclamation of the Philippine Commission had been plentifully posted; as Lawton withdrew, the insurgents came back, and not content with tearing down the manifesto, they inclosed a number of copies in envelopes and forwarded them to headquarters in Manila by the hand of amigos, who claimed not to know what they were bringing. This was the second raid in the direction of the fertile and populous lake country, the first having taken place March 13th to 15th, under the command of BrigadierGeneral Wheaton, whlo, advancing along the Pasig, preceded by the gunboat Laguna de Bay firing right and left, took Guadalupe, Pasig, Pateros (which was burned), Taguig and other towns upon or near the Pasig delta, and General Otis had cabled these operations as "the greatest victory since February 5th." General Lawton returned to Manila April 17th, and five days later started, by way of Novaliches, for Norzagary, some thirty miles northeast of Manila, whence he was to swing down upon the insurgent rear to the north of Calumpit. It was a forced march in the strictest sense, yet such were the difficulties to be overcome from the lack of roads through an unknown and densely wooded country that four days were consumed in reaching Norzagary. Under the overpowering heat some of the carabaos hauling ammunition-carts laid down in their tracks and died. The forces disputing Lawton's advance were easily brushed aside, and moving westward from Norzagary, on May 1st he took the town of Baliuag, the seat of a considerable industry in weaving Philippine hats, 136 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND and then other villages in the vicinity. In the meanwhile two or three days had been lost by MacArthur in a movement toward the northeast, with view to a junction with Ijawton, and on April 23d, in the vicinity of Quingua, four miles from Malolos, Colonel John M. Stotsenburg was killed, one of numerous casualties resulting from an ugly ambuscade. Hale's brigade reached the vicinity of Calumpit April 25th, capturing the outer trenches at a cost of six killed and twelve wounded. During the night the partially destroyed bridge over the Quingua river was repaired, enabling Wheaton's brigade to cross, and after a determined resistance the Filipinos, on the twenty these, stripping off every stitch of clothing, swam across, carrying one end of a rope, which they fastened to a tree on the opposite bank, their comrades, meanwhile, pouring a heavy fire into the trenches to keep the Filipinos from rushing out and capturing them. By means of the rope attached to an imnprovised raft several companies of the Kansas regiment crossed the river, and gained a position enabling them to enfilade the insurgents, thus compelling them to abandon their trenches. The remainder of the brigade, after a precarious crossing on the bridge, encountered reinforcements coming to Calumpit from Macabebe, a few miles westward. These they forced AMERICAN TROOPS QUARTERED AT THE TRIBUNAL, MALOLOS The town of Malolos is twenty-seven miles from Manila, on the railway to Dagupan sixth, were driven from Calumpit, the Americans losing three killed and eleven wounded. Advancing along the railroad to the south bank of the Rio Grande de Pampanga, General Wheaton found the enemy so strongly intrenched on the north side that rifle-fire and artillery failed to dislodge them. The bridge over the river was badly damaged, and to cross it in face of the enemy's fire was impossible. Here occurred a deed of signal daring. At ten o'clock the next forenoon Colonel Funston (rewarded a few days later with an appointment as brigadiergeneral) called for volunteers to cross the river. From the number who offered he selected two, and back, then advanced to Apalit, north of Calumpit, expelling the enemy from three successive lines of trenches. On May 4th General MacArthur's column dislodged the insurgents under General Luna from their strong intrenchment two miles south of Santa Tomas, which is northwest of Apalit, and after repairing the bridge entered Santa Tomas at noon, to find the town on fire. In the afternoon it advanced to San Fernando, two miles further, where similar scenes were enacted. San Fernando, an important town in the rich sugar districts of Pampangas province, was the most inviting camping-place the wornout Americans had yet found, and.here MacArthur's HOT- SEASON CAMPAIGNING 137 headquarters remained for the next eleven weeks, the men quartered, in part, in the huge sugar-warehouses. The rainy season was aboiut b)eginning, and the volunteers, after several months of heroic service Ibeyond the time for which they had enlisted, began to be concentrated at Manila for the return home. Their places were taken b)y reinforcements of regular troops who from now on, as also volunteers after September, continued for months to arrive every week or two. At Manila tlhe Spanishll had transferred the Supreme Court to the American authorities (who I)romptly applointed six new jldges, three American and three native) on April l itli. Four days preceding that date Lieutenant James C. (;illmore, of the gunl)oat Yorktown, and a party of thirteen had landed in Baler,ay, midway the eastern coast of Luzon, and been captured. On April 28th envoys from the insurgent General Luna had comle into the American lines, requesting an armistice for thr ee wees, to enalle the Revolutionary Congress to determine whletlher or not to continue the war, and similar requests were received on May 2d, (opyrigot, 13th and 19th. The memblers of one deputation were conveyed to Manila, wheie they'were received with ceremonious courtesy, but no results followed, as the utmost that General Otis could do AR-ADMIRAL JOHN CRITTENDEN WATSON was to promise full amnesty for unconditional surrender. On the twenty-fourth of May the last Spanish garrison renlaining in the archipelago was withdrawn, under arrangements with besieging insurgents. This was at Zamboanga, in Mindanao, where the garrison had lingeredsome weeks at the request of General Otis, and meanwhile sustained a loss of nine killed and twenty-seven wounded, among the latter being their general, who died from his wound and was buried at Manila. For months thereafter not one white soldier, Spanish or American, was on duty in Mindanao, the second in size of the Philippine islands. During May a marked divergence had developed between the views AND DAGUPAN RAILWAY of the civil members of the ds, June, 1898 Philippine Commission and BAMBOO INTRENCHMENT OF THE FITTPINOS ACROSS THE MANIIA 3 The cannon is a bronze piece captured from the Spaniar( 138 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND those of the military governor, Major-General Otis, Admiral Dewey, the remaining member of the Commission, having started home on the Olympia on May 20th. His successor in command of the Asiatic squadron, Rear-Admiral John C. Watson, reached Manila on the twentieth of the following month, and raised his flag on the Baltimore. Again taking up the main story of the campaign, Lawton's division returned on the twenty-fourth of May from an expeditionary movement eastward from San Fernando, again joining M1acArthur there. In twenty days' campaigning Lawton's men had marched one hundred and twenty-nine miles, won twenty-two fights, captured twenty-eight towns and destroyed 300,000 bushels of rice. One of the towns taken the week previous, and then abandoned, was San Isidro, Aguinaldo's capital for a few days after the fall of San Fernando. The main body of the insurgents had retreated northward to Tarlac, thirty miles or so beyond San Fernando, after tearing up three miles of the railroad, though Aguinaldo personally retired no farther at first than to Cabanatuan, twelve miles north, where he dissolved the Filipino Congress and resumed his authority of twelve months before as dictator, presumably on the plea of military necessity; and next he established headquarters at Tarlac. The death of General Luna, who had been killed in an altercation with Aguinaldo's bodyguard at San Isidro, distinctly strengthened Aguinaldo's position among his countrymen, and shortly he reconvened (Congress. THE LAGUNA DE BAY, A CONVERTED SPANISH GUNBOAT This little craft rendered great execution in clearing the banks of the Pasig river and the lake towns of insurgents LAWTON'S WORK IN THE SOUTH JUNE 3d to 6th are the dates of a laborious expedition, under Lawton, eastward from Manila along the northern shore of Laguna de Bay, in the fruitless endeavor to drive the Filipino General Pio del Pilar down. into the Morong peninsula, and bag his forces there. Cainta, Taitai, Antipolo, Teresa and Morong were occupied in succession, after more or less skirmishing, but only Morong was garrisoned, and that was burned in August and its site evacuated. The country is so mountainous and transportation proved so difficult that some of the wagons and ammunition had to be burned, and the heat was terrific; one evening the hospital tugs on the lake brought in five hundred prostrated men. On June 10th the irrepressible Lawton undertook a movement planned to crush the insurgents threatening Manila from the south, and who were even in occupation of the site of Camp Dewey, thus rendering it impossible, LA WTON'S WORK IN THE SOUTH 139 on Decoration Day. to wreathe the soldiers' graves there, including the ones shown on page 20. A feint movement toward the lake, followed by most rapid countermarching, failed to cut off the insurgents, owing chiefly to the awful heat. Terrible were the hours on the desert behind Paranaque (see map on page 67), which place, as also Las Pinas, near by, the monitor Monadnock and gunboat Helena shelled all day from the bay, Captain Nichols, of the former, dying from sunstroke. (f this (lay's march John T. McCutcheon, a well-known war correspondent, wrote to the Chicago Record: "Long lines of men were exposed for over two hours out in the open, where the heat must have been as high as one hundred alnd twenty degrees. Every inch of shade afforded by the slightest shrub was::: packed with men. Scores of soldiers were stretched out gasping for water, while comrades, scarcely better off, were fanning them. When at last the march was resnumed, at noon, the lines_ were crowded with tottering, - dizzy soldiers, who were fighting off complete prostration in the h.ol)e........ of finally reaching the distant shade near Parhats, of a sort that no army in the world 1has ever used in the trol)ics, afforded little protection; and there were no banea — na-leaves to be tiucked, as usual, under the hat- MAJORGENERA brims to keep the sun's scorching rays from their necks. Vlp hill and down hill, tearing their wAay through the tangled desert grass, went the men. 'There was not a drop of water for miles that could be drunk. The wake of the army was strewn with prostrated soldiers, while bands of insurgents were moving about ready to cap)ture those left behind. Once or twice a. short halt was made to clear the way of insurgents, but there was little push or spirit left in our staggering ranks. The hospital corps, while doing everything in their power to help the stricken soldiers, were not prepared for such wholesale prostrations. When a man could walk no further he was given such assistance as was possible, then was told to keep with his other comrades who had fallen out; and in this way the field behind the army was scattered with little groups of men who, by keeping together, prevented the insurgents from attacking them or picking them up as prisoners. I saw one man who was struggling to keep up with his regiment suddenly throw his arms above his head and fall unconscious to the ground. He was taken into the shade of a tree, where his moaning was pitiful. A (hinese coolie in the hospital service dropped dead from the heat, and another went mad. A soldier left behind unseen was picked up by the insurgents and killed, his mutilated body being found afterward." (n June 13th the hardest battle yet fought occurred at a strategic position above Bacoor, one celebrated for the annihilation there of a Spanish battalion in 1.896. It was the crossing of the Zapote river. Here the Filipinos not only fought behind strong intrenchmnents, but used artillery with decided effect: but after fifteen hours' fighting, part of it decidedly fierce, they were forced fron their position and driven southward, withl estimated losses of over a thlousand. The Americans lost about seventy. Following up this success, General Wheaton's brigade, on the fifteenth, occupied Imus, fifteen miles from Manila, the Filipinos removing what they could of their stores HENRY W. LAWTON and ammunuition-factory there, and blowing up the rest. On tile nineteenth, in repelling an attack directed toward Innus,Wheaton lost twenty-eight men. At this time the northern insurgent forces were concentrated above San Fernando, toward which they continued to push their intrenchments closer and closer; and, though their few attacks were always and easily beaten off, they managed to keep _MacArthur's men in constant suspense. On June 26th General Otis cabled that 30,000 "effective men" would suffice to end the war, which, allowing for necessary details and the sick, meant a total hardly less than 45,000. But even this greatly increased number the government at Washington was already taking steps to exceed, at a cost per man of $1,500 annually. f 140 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND INFANTRY AND BATTERY D, SIXTH UNITED STATES ARTILLERY, ON OUTPOST DUTY NEAR SAN FERNANDO THE RAINY SEASON STATUS QUO THEI: second week of,July )brought rains so extraordinary for even the rainy season as to veto aggressive campaigning for months. In July the rainfall was three times the average amount for the same nronth during thirty years previous, the accompanying typhoons being protracted and severe. In the trenches along the lines south of Manila the troops suffered indescriable discomfort. Bridges used for bringing sullplies were washed away, and some of the companies were separated ly streams six feet deep. In many cases the men slept with two or three feet of water under their bunks, which happily they had succeeded in elevating by means of boxes. The company cooks, when preparing meals, stood knee-deep in water. On all sides the rice-fields, spreading to great distances, looked like genuine lakes. When the campaign thus closed the situation was such as to prove conclusively the need of a largely increased force if the Philippine conquest was to be carried through. A press dispatch from Hong-Kong, to which it had been forwarded by mail from Manila, to avoid military censorship, declared: "The outlook at present is more gloomy for ending the war speedily than ever before. The method of making raids into the country and then withdrawing, leaving the friendly natives at the mercy of the returning insurgents, has tended to alienate the population, while not materially weakening the insurgents, whose organization is still good. The troops in the north are in a bad condition. Many of the soldiers have irritated hearts, by reason of over-exertion." Another journalist of high reputation, summarizing results up to June in a comprehensive and apparently unbiased statement, pointed out the bad effects of the lack of a definite policy by which the campaign had been characterized. Ite mentioned a series of towns which, on general princiilles, were destroyed, an(l one of them looted, by our forces in a single raid, this being followed by an interval of great consideration for the natives, and later by another period when sometimes a captured village was burned and sometimes it was not, with no apparent reason for sparing one any more than the other. Coming to the delicate subject of mutilations of the dead, he declared his conviction that, while there had undoubtedly been such cases, they were isolated and wholly THE RAINY SEASON STATUS QUO 141 exceptional ones; a few calloused men in either army had indulged in these crimes against humanity, 1)u the vast najority on both sides had refrained fron them. To the credit of our officers the barbarous practice a few of the American scouts had fallen intc of cutting off the ears of the dead as trophies was sternly repressed as soon as it became known. Th( death sentence passed by a court-martial, in Septern ber, on two soldiers for a heinous offense was a furthel vindication of American honor and its respect foi the rights of the humblest. It was along the line of convincing the natives of our friendly intentions by suital)le civil measures that the Philippine Commission chiefly based their expectation of securing American ascendancy in the Philippines. In August the Coinmission was ordered home, its president, T)r. Schurman, having already returned. Quoting again from the (hicago Tribune i correspondence: "()n a Philippines map sold out here something over two and a half feet 4 square a man's forefinger colld cover the territory now held b)y our forces in Luzon. The insurgents not only control over two thirds of the trackage of the only railroad in the islands, but they could outvote the Americans at a directors' meeting in the interests of the road, as they are in possession of three fourths of the rolling stock. They have twenty-seven of the road's locomlotives, while tlhe Americans have foulr. Ielports continually coime from BIalinag that the town is surround- ed by the enemy and is aloutt to b)e assaulted, though the garrison express no fears. Supplies and mail carried over to Baliuag from the railroad require an escort of not less than one hundred and fifty iinen, who are invariably attacked somllewhlc re alo ng thle road, and sometimes hboth going andl corming. An officer just down from San Fernando says that the insurgents in that vicinity never relax their vigilance; their shllarpshooters and skirmishers are always in evidence, and frequently the showing of a head will draw four or five shots in a twinkling. To meet these conditions the garrison at San Fernando must be perpetually or the alert. Day and night, under the boiling sun oi in inky darkness, in muddy trenches and under pelt. ing rains, there must always be a sufficient numbel of sturdy hearts and sleepless eyes to meet what ever man(oeuver the enemy makes. The whole towr is a firing-line, and there is absolute safety nowhere.' On the ninth of August MacArthur moved fror San Fernando, and after a running fight of thre( days, in which his men sometimes waded rice-fields two or three feet deep in muddy water, he captured Angeles, nine miles further north on the railroad. Here he established headquarters for the rest of the rainy season, subject constantly to great annoyance in protecting his communications. Once the insurgents descended on the railroad twelve miles in his rear, and tore up three miles of it, and September 22d, not far from Angeles, they blew up a train bringing American supplies, and killed six soldiers and six native CONVALESCENT HOSPITAL AT ERMITA, OVERLOOKING MANILA BAY mechanics among its passengers. He drove them out of their position at Porac, a few miles northwestward, on September 28th, and three weeks later with General Lawton made a further advance up the railroad. In October there were a few days' fighting-mainly skirmishing, of course-at various points nine to sixteen miles south of Manila, where the Americans were forced to assume the aggressive, because the enemy had again insinuated themselves into several 142 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND villages from which they had been driven in June. Nothing hardly could be more misleading than many of the head-lines respecting these affairs in the daily press. Americans owe it to their common sense to make use of their Philippine maps. Meantime a few desultory bombardments in Subig bay, Lingayen gulf and elsewhere occurred, but they must be considered trivial incidents in a war of general conquest. The same remark applies to the petty attacks of the Filipinos on various American positions; their capture, toward the end of September, of a tiny gunboat, the Urdeneta (afterward recovered in a damaged condition) at the northwest angle of Manila bay; and their return to our lines, on September 30th, of fourteen American soldiers, captured stragglers. The unwillingness of the masses to accept American rule was offset by encouraging results in reorganizing certain towns on the basis of autonomy. I~: Courtesy of Andreae and Reeves THREADING A MOUNTAIN ROAD IN CENTRAL LUZON LUZON: PHYSICAL FEATURES, BANDITS AND RAILWAY UZON, the theater of so much unhappy strife, is the largest, the most variedly beautiful and fertile and best developed of the Philippine islands, with an area of something between 40,000 and 50,000 square miles. What may be called its trunk extends from north to south about three hundred and forty miles. The peninsula, remarkably broken in outline, that forms "southeast Luzon" approximates two hundred and fifty miles in length, and represents an unknown number of islands consolidated ages ago by upheaval from the sea. and by vast deposits of volcanic matter. Here, as elsewhere throughout the archipelago, the volcanic deposits, under the action of the elements and amid the life-giving influences of the oceanic tropics, have acquired a hot-bed fertility and become a mammoth conservatory of blossomed and verdurous delight. Scores of extinct and live volcanoes, in addition to those described on page 19, have been mapped in Luzon, from Mount Cagua, in the extreme northeast, to Mount Bulusan, in the extreme southeast, which, after remaining for a long time dormant, began again to smoke in 1852. Between the bay of Lingayen on the west and the Pacific on the east stretches the high, irregular range (inadequately shown on current maps) of the Caballo mountains, forming the principal watershed of Luzon, and interposing what, under the Spanish regime, was an impassable barrier between the provinces north of it and those to the south. Across its densely wooded steeps a very few mountain trails and a single line of telegraph afford the only means of commniication. To these mountains the Filipino LUZON: PHYSICAL FEATURES, BANDITS AND RAILWAYS 143 Junta had special reference when notifying the world that Aguinaldo could retire, if necessary, into inaccessible retreats, thence to wage guerilla warfare indefinitely. Northward and southward from the Caballo mountains extend the main cordilleras, one overlooking the Pacific and one the China sea, with a shorter range in the north, midway the two. The spreading plains between these north and south ranges possess extraordinary fertility, especially those watered by the Rio Grande de Panmpanga and the (Cagayan river and their affluents. The Cagayan is are an important strain, and they take to mining industries more kindly than any other. Luzon has more well-peopled towns than all the other islands put together, but trustworthy statistics are lacking. An 1898 government bulletin credited Laoag with 30,642 inhabitants, Banang 35,598, Batangas 35,587, and Lipa 43,408, though the extent of the suburban areas included in each case is left to conjecture. Taal, with its suburbs, approximates 50,000. Aparri, at the mouth of the Cagayan, is clearly destined to increased commercial importance, while Sual, in the TOBACCO PLANTATION IN THE LOWER CAGAYAN VALLEY, NORTHERN LUZON the largest river of Luzon, having a length of over two hundred miles, some sixty of them navigable by small steamers. Its valley is the tobacco garden of the Philippines, the valley of the Rio Grande de Pampanga a sugar region, and that of the Agno a leading rice district. Everywhere the rivers serve as highways, in most sections the only ones. Owing chiefly to lack of roads there are many abandoned or neglected estates in Luzon, so that at least one half the island lies agriculturally dormant. The population of Luzon is variously given at 1,500,000 to 3,000,000. While it is very mixed, the Tagals greatly preponderate. The Ilocans in the north are the largest and sturdiest in build among the Philippine Malays, but in mental average and general adaptability they rank lower than either the Tagals or Visayans. According to press accounts their interest in Aguinaldo's cause was acquiescent rather than active. In southeast Luzon the Bicols bay of Lingayen, has fallen into decay since Dagupan became the railway terminus. The eastern coast has only villages. Shut in by the mountain ranges to a mere fringe of coast, the settlements there are also off the routes of commerce. In the province of Morong, anticipatively but two hours' ride from Manila, are high altitudes offering the same life-giving coolness to white residents that Victoria Peak does for those at Hong-Kong. Here is Antipolo, thousands of feet above the sea, the most famous place of pilgrimage in the Philippines, excepting Cebu. The enshrined brazen image of the Virgin, very nearly life size, has been the reputed subject of 144 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND scores, and the producer of thousands, of miracles. Originally brought from Mexico in 1636, it crossed the ocean six times afterward in the capacity of protectress of the yearly galleon (see page 65), and in1672 was finally escorted by a joyous multitude to its present resting-place, "birds, beasts, flowers, hills and waters greeting her as she journeyed." The annual fiesta of the Virgin of Antipolo occurs in May, and in ordinary times is attended by thousands of pilgrims, who leave not less than $30,000 behind them for board, rosaries, holy pictures and sacred knickknacks generally, some of them, moreover, piously ful of coping with these outlaws devolved on the civil guards, who really did arrest some of them occasionally; but the culprits-either for a moneyed consideration or through fear of their comrades' vengeance -were oftener set free than punished. Such arrests were generally made among a class of sneaking desperadoes who live scattered among the honest villagers, and repair to the marauders' rendezvous only when some deviltry is on foot. Pillage and capture for ransom-money are the ordinary game of the brigands, though murder occasions them no scruples. (nce, at least, they abducted a priest from Manila. I DRYING-YARD IN THE SUGAR DISTRICT OF PAMPANGAS The square and oblong dark-colored patches covering the drying-yard are little piles of raw sugar filling previous vows to climb the steep ascent to the church-trying to a pedestrian-upon their knees. Entrancing are the mountain views to le enjoyed from this region, taking in the great plain of Manila, the bay and the green heights of Mariveles beyond, while behind stretch what seem illimitable reaches of forested mountains. But danger from banditti is nowhere greater in all Luzon than it is just here. Dating from about the middle of the eighteenth century brigandage became a popular profession with certain dare-devil spirits, its chief attraction being the life of freedom which it offered, especially freedom from any tribute to alien masters. The duty The protracted fighting along its line has made "the railroad" a familiar Philippine term. The better to locate it for ordinary readers it is often designated the Manila and Dagupan railroad, but its office in Manila bears the simple and ultra-English sign of "Railway Company, Limited, 11. L. Higgins, C. E." Construction began in 1887, and the first section was opened for traffic in 1890. For its whole length of one hundred and twenty-three miles it is a well-built single-track road, with steel rails, bridges of stone or iron, substantial stations nowhere more than four miles apart, and English engines and coaches, the former capable of making forty-five miles an hour. SUBIG BAY, MINDORO AND PALA WAN 145 It was built at a total cost of eleven million pesos (Spanish dollars), by an English company that was organized by the able civil engineer named above, and who, the husband of an accomplished Spanish lady, has been manager of the road fron the start. The Manila government assisted not only by giving the right of way and making valuable concessions of land, but by guaranteeing eight per cent per annum upon the capital stock for ninety-nine years, at the end of which time the road is to become state property; and in this deal the American government, of course, has taken the place of the Spanish. The yearly earnings afforded more than eight per cent dividends up to 1899, and during the war beginning in February of that year snug payments were received for transportation from both the American and the Filipino governments. The road carried 800,000 passengers in 1894, after which this branch of traffic fell off somewhat on account of a tax of ten per cent placed upon it by the government. The freight business in normal times reaches about 220,000 tons annually. Dagupan, the northern terminus, is on a branch of the river Agno, very near the gulf of Lingayen, whence steamers run in and land. The railway runs through a country of garden-like richness, producing enormous quantities of sugar, rice, coffee, cotton, indigo, etc. That its commercial value was fully appreciated by the insurgents appears from their leaving it undisturbed except as military exigencies led to tearing it up here and there, and crippling some of the bridges. From the start it was operated almost exclusively by native help, even to manning the telegraph instruments. Among the extensions and new connecting lines proposed, and which would be most valuable in the development of the island, are: From Manila to Batangas, south; I)agupan to Laoag, north; Guiginto (near Malolos) to Cagayan valley, northeast; Manila to Antipolo, east. COACHES OF THE MANILA AND DAGUPAN RAILWAY They are English-built, divided into compartments and with doors on the sides. The road is operated by native employees SUBIG BAY, MINDORO AND PALAWAN N THE west coast of Luzon, about thirty miles above the bay of Manila, is Subig bay, reported on by Admiral Dewey, in August, 1898, as follows: "This is decidedly the best harbor in the Philippines, having no equal as a coaling station or naval and military base. The entrances are narrow, the shores bold, the water deep, the bay land-locked and easily defended from attack by water or land, and the freshwater supply is ample. As it is just off the trade route between Manila and China and Japan it strategically commands Manila. It is at Subig that the 10 Spanish government had planned to place its principal naval arsenal in the East. Already a great deal of money had been expended, many buildings erected and much work done. A contract was made with an English company to construct a floating dock of 12,000 tons capacity. Some of the material has been delivered and payments made. The arsenal is on the south side of the harbor, at the village of Olongapo. It is expected that a connection will be made with the railroad, thus putting Subig within easy reach of Manila." Here Dewey first sought the Spanish fleet. 146 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND unhllealthful. Tagal settlements mark the coast, while sparsely scattered throughout the interior is a low type of Malays, speaking a peculiar lan4j -.,! guage and living in. a Iiserable manner upon 'what they can raise l)y tlle rudest of agriculture. Junngle produlcts, such as rattan and woods, mnake lup most of the few exports. Thie sago-lpalmn grows abundantly all over the island, and sagoflour forms the staff of life for the wild inland trib)es, concerning whom very little is known. The few Spanish settlements occur on the eastern and the northern shores, CalORPS NEAR ANGELES apan, the capital, being on the latter. 1ly steamer it is ninety-six miles from Manila, and it is credited with a population of nearly 6,000. Tinimber merchants, a few of themn, have made fortunes in Mindoro, whose hard woods are numerous FIELD TELEGRAPH STATION OF UNITED STATES SIGNAL C( On the other hand, it is urged that the land about Subig bay rlns very abruptly down to the sea; that is, the hinterland is very hilly, there being no stretch of flat land whatever extending back from the bay. But the objectors admit the port is an excellent one, amply protected from winds sweeping the China sea. Seventy miles directly south of Manila is the large and thinly populated island of Mindoro, in the same undeveloped condition, except at certain points on the coast, as it was,11" three hundred years ago. For the most part mountainous and covered with dense forests, it abounds in the more level parts on the coast with marshes, and is considered very FOREST IN THE INTERIOR 01 F MINDORO ISLAND, OFF THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF LUZON SUBIG BAY, MINDORO AND PALA WAN 147 and very fine. Some sugar plantations along the coast were once highly profitable, despite droughts. In Manila the impression prevails that Mindoro is rich in minerals. Some consider it a promising field for gold prospecting, and all are sure it has coal to burn. A few years ago the ship lichlard Parsons, fromI Nantucket, Massachusetts, was wrecked on the west coast, and ('aptain Joy, the master, and his crew were obliged to cross to the east side to get passage to Manila, living for seventeen days on wild fruits and nuts. In crossing a mountain range they came at one place upon great ledges of outcropping coal, thousands of tons of it broken off and lying at the the Calamianes lead is the collecting of edible birds'nests for the export trade with China. (See page 171.) Long and slender stretches wild and unexplored Palawan (or Iaragua), shutting in the Sulu sea upon the west. It is inhabited by savage Malay tribes and negritos, with their hybrids, and along the shores at the south end by the detestable Moros. A central mountain range extends its whole length. On either side are ten or a dozen small Spanish towns, the most inmportant being Puerto Princesa, a penal settlement, where the convicts were put to work on the surrounding sugar estates. Taking advantage of the fine harbor, the Spaniards here constructed a small naval REAR VIEW OF NINE-INCH-GUN BATTERY ON THE LUNETA, MANILA Showing bomb-proof casemate, and American sentry receiving instructions from the officer of the guard foot of the cliff. No sooner was the discovery reported than the whole region was set apart as a government reservation, but as no stel)s were ever taken to develop it, Manila still depends upon Australian coal mined almost two thousand miles awav. The Calamianes group of islands, southwest of Mindoro, formed, with the Cuyos islands and the northern part of Palawan, a Spanish province having its capital at Taitai, on Palawan. Better settled than either Mindoro or Palawan, they are hilly and broken, and girt about with reefs and rocks. The principal industry is grazing, beef being shipped on the hoof to the Manila market. Another industry in which station,which aided them considerably in maintaining their hard-earned supremacy over the Moro pirates. So good an authority as Foreman told the American (ommissioners at Paris: "Palawan is worthless. The whole west coast can hardly be approached to within less than three miles; here and there shoals are found, but such extremely careful navigation is required that the harbors are practically useless. The island produces very little. I have been across it. I went with bearers and walked across it." Exaggerated ideas of Palawan's strategical importance formerly obtained at Washington, partly due, perhaps, to reports that Germany had sought to buy it from 148 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND Spain. "Five bays and ten anchorages on the west coast" had been dwelt upon, especial stress being laid on Malampaya sound, concerning which a bureau chief testified before the American Peace Commissioners: "This presents one of the most valuable sites for a naval station of any harbor of which I have knowledge. In this respect it is sufficiently valuable to excite the cupidity of any nation. It is nineteen miles deep, with a width of from two to four miles, the entrance six tenths of a mile wide, and between bold and high headlands. The interior sound is surrounded by highlands, is well wooded, and affords an abundance of good water, and it is the best place The predominant tribe north of the Moro end of the island is spoken of as the Tageannas, who are unadulterated Malays slowly yielding to the impress of civilization. A curious half-breed race, the Tagbuanas, catch fish by throwing a certain poison into shallow water, causing them to rise to the surface, where they are easily taken. "Everywhere in the interior the people seem wretchedly poor," wrote the naturalist Claes Ericsson, who visited southern Palawan in 1894. "Their habitations were the worst hovels 1 had seen in the Far East. These aborigines have no settled place of abode. They sometimes throw a hut together, cultivate a tiny plot of:.i:::!-i i i C" A RESERVE PICKET-POST NEAR MANILA The pair of natives under the clump of bamboos have already disposed of their vegetables to the guards for supplies on the western coast. The Malampaya river empties into the inner sound, and boats ascend it for two miles, whence a good foot-path leads to the eastern shore, distant only two miles further. In this respect it is like Ulugan bay, farther south, which is said to be three miles from the eastern shore, with a good road the entire distance.... Both the eastern and western shores of Palawan are more or less fringed with shoals, rocks and islets, making navigation with the present charts dangerous in places, particularly on the west shore. The Philippine islands are not well surveyed, and it is unknown dangers that shipmen fear the most." ground for a year, then move on. The majority are always wandering about. These aborigines must be very near the bottom of the human scale. I have watched them sleeping around a fire at night, in as. much security as they ever know, and their tiny limbs, never still, were always quivering and stretching, and at the least sound in the jungle they were on their feet, wide awake, ready to flee. A mysterious people, uncanny, scarcely human, yet, in comparison with their Moro masters, honest and trustworthy. As for the Moros, they appear to do no work at all. When they are not robbing inland natives they pass the time in lament for the good old days when they, THE VISA YAS: PANAY AND ILOILO 149 the Orang Laut (Men of the Sea), ruled the waters far and near. The piratical spirit survives in vigor. "At Marangas, my base of operations, the settlement comprised two houses occupied by Chinamen, and a stockade less than a hundred yards square, containing a hut for the officer in command, one for the garrison of thirty soldiers, and another for the stores. At each corner of the stockade rose a grassthatched watch-tower, occupied night and day by sentries, with loaded rifles, lest the Moros should attempt a surprise. There was scarcely any food to be had for love or money. Mosquitoes swarmed as I think they do nowhere else on earth. One morning I counted thirteen alligators marching in a troop along the beach toward the mouth of a small river. Ants, millions of them, were everywhere that an ant can crawl-in the soup, the jam, the bed, one's shirt, on the table-and a species more venomous I never encountered. My men from Manila suffered terribly. Scarcely an inch of their bodies escaped, and the wounds, if rubbed, suppurated like small-pox. To crown all, Marangas is notorious for a special kind of fever of virulent character. Half the garrison were down while I was there, and their commander was hardly ever well. The Chinamen were engaged in the dammar trade, which is carried on in a rather peculiar manner. The Sultan will not allow the interior natives to sell their resin to the Celestials direct; they must dispose of it to the Moros who dwell on the coast, and these do the trading with the Chinamen. Of course, the poor natives are plundered shamefully." The Sultan referred to dwelt close by. THE NEW CATHEDRAL AT ILOILO THE VISAYAS: PANAY AND ILOILO T HE collective name for the important central islands lying between southeast Luzon and Mindanao is the Visayas. (For their areas see page 17.) In conmmercial usage they include not only the official "Government of the Visayas" given on page 29, but also the Romblon islands and Masbate. Especially important are Panay, Negros and Cebu islands, which together produce the major part of the Philippine sugar crop, marketing it at Iloilo, the second port for commerce in the archipelago. Here the planta tion methods and the factories are more nearly up to date than in Luzon, and in consequence the Visayan sugars are in better demand. Samar and Leyte, more backward, ship large quantities of excellent Manila hemp, mostly to Manila, though some of it goes to the port of Cebu. The Romblon, Masbate and neighboring small islands support large herds of cattle, and they dispose of their products almost altogether in Manila. Masbate is peculiarly well off for good harbors. The tail of a typhoon is liable at any time to 150 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND HARBOR AND SOUTHERN PART OF ILOILO Showing the sheet-iron roofs which are much in vogue in all towers were built in many places, from which the out-:looks gave warning to the neighboring districts of the marauders' approach. But this sort of thing came to an end soon after 1870, the Spanish gunboats, aided to I^^^^ - some extent by the British, punishing the pirates severe-; -— ly, and then the authorities keeping them down (and the United States has followed suit) through a moneyed arrangement with His Ilighhess, the Sultan of Sulu. Well under cultivation, the island of Panay has no the Visayan ports aboriginal woods of any consequence remaining, except in its nmcst backward portions, toward the west and northwest. It contains no volcanoes, but its surface is much broken by mountain ranges running in all directions, and feeding with their springs innumerable small streams that form an important factor in the great fertility of the island. Sugar is the product chiefly raised, with considerable amounts of tobacco, abaca (Manila hemp), rice and maize, and soimewhat of cotton, cacao and pepper. Cattle-raising also has attention. The i-anufacture of native fabrics-pina, jusi and sinaniay-is carried on with such activity, especially in Iloilo (outside of which it is hardly more than a home industry), as to give them creditable prominence in the exports. Panay supports a population of about 900,000. Iloilo, with a present population of not exceeding 15,000 inhabitants, dates its importance from the opening of the port to all nations. It stands on a pass over the more northern Visayas, but shippers give less thought to typhoons than to the southwest monsoons, which sometimes blow with great force, as many a seasick passenger on the provincial steamers could testify. The Visayas have (or had) cable communication with Manila, and would now enjoy others had not the cable-steamer Hooker been wrecked. 'These central islands are peopled mainly by the \Visayans, a branch of the Malay stock cognate with the Tagal, which it probably outnumbers. The Visayans, however, lack the decisiveness and energy of the Tagals, and are less hospitable, some writers characterizing them as mercenary, callous and uncouth. Except some wild tribes of interior Negros they have all been Catholicized, and are docile and easily managed. During the last fifty years of Spanish rule they took no part in the insurrections, save in Cebu, in 189(, and then through the influence of Tagal emissaries, who accomplished little except to provoke a destructive bombardment of the town of Ceblu from Admiral. Montojo. Says Professor Worcester: "The average Visayan with a couple of:: bushels of shelled corn or a measure of rice in the house, and a bit of dried fish for dessert, wisely lies on the floor, smokes his cigarette, thrums his guitar and composes extemporary songs on current events. His wife does the 4ii cooking and brings the water. When the provisions give out it will be soon enough to look for more." Formerly the Moros were a constant dread on every Yisayan beach as soon as the southwest monsoon set in. Watch ON THE BEACH AT ROMBLON, ON ROMBLON ISLAND NEGROS, CEBU, LEYTE AND SAMAR 151: I.-...........- -..... -....I..... I. - II. I - 1 I,...................._.... -i.....:.~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~7r..............~~ - ~~ —~ ~~~~ — ~ ~~~~~ ~- ~ — ~ ~~ —.~~" "~....~~~~..~`...~~"..............~~~.....~~..~`......I::::::::::::.:::1:::::::::::::.............::::;.:.............:7: -7... r._:-::~:-~ —: -....:-:~::~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:~~~~~:.. i ~~~~~~~~~~~i.........;^ -- - _ low, swaampy flat, on the right bank of the little Iloilo river, while a sand-pit promnontory extending beyond it is the site of a defensive fort, with deep water close by. The better class of houses are built with stout wooden posts reaching to the roof, stone walls carried to the living-floor, and sheet-iron roofs that glare fiercely hot un(ler the midlday sun. The native dwellings are the usual style of nipa huts. A long line of "godowns" (warehouses) abutting upon the wharves gives evidence of the large exporting trade. Besides merchants and commission merchants, sugar dealers and money-lenders, the busiless directory of Iloilo contains several drug firms, cllelnists, photographers, physicians and veterinary surgeons, solicitors, teachers, mnsic-teachers and contractors, brick and pottery manufacturers, carriage-builders, Ihat-makers, trimming manufacturers, tailors, tramway and steamship owners, and a branch bank. The town suffered severely from the fire of February 12, 1899, at the American occupation, but the cathedral and seminary escaped, as also some of the lublic buildings. There are several foreign consulates here. The inevitable British club, with its albllndant hospitality, billiardtables and stale newspapers, and its counterpart among the (Germans, constitute the magnetic social centers for the foreigners engaged in business. The high, wooded island of Guimaras, across the narrow strait, besides affording the harbor a first-class protection against the southwest monsoons, and giving to the outlying town an always picturesque landscape in sight from every quarter, acts as a kind of ILOILO, LOOKING SOUTH TOWARD GUIMARAS ISLAND funnel, so that Iloilo has the unspeakable comfort of a constant breeze. The climate is decidedly more,bearable than Manila's, but the fact that the spring tides cover the whole town with water is a serious drawback. The scarcity of drinking-water is obviated by bringing it across from Guimaras in tank-boats. By steamship Iloilo is called three hundred and fiftyfive miles from Manila. Tle means of communication with the interior are wretchedly poor. During the rainly season the country roads are practically impassable, and this, as everywhere in the Philippines, seriously retards the development of agriculture and commerce. The populous native towns of Jaro and Alolo are respectively two and one half and four miles from Iloilo, with which, but for the disturbed condition of affairs, the former would ere now have been connected by the electric tramway, for which a concession was obtained in 1896. In these two towns live the mestizo-Chinese middlemen of the island, some of them very wealthy, as also a number of planters owning sugar estates in Negros, but preferring to reside where it is more secure and healthful. NEGROS, CEBU, LEYTE AND SAMAR EGIROS is of great agricultural importance, and in the production of sugar it leads. In places considerable coffee is raised. Up to about 1830 Negros remained as little known as Mindanao is now, and chiefly passed as a refuge and hiding-place for criminals and hard-pressed opponents of government misrule. On the introduction of inter-island steamers, in 1853, a change took place, which was followed by other changes as soon as the piratical raids of the Moros could be countervailed or stopped, until now, notwithstanding its occasional outbreaks of brigandage, most parts of the island are well under control. 152 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND Huge forests still cover the interior, and though the hill-men have never been subdued, these unsophisticated savages make little or no trouble when left alone. How the Spanish gentry handled them was shown when a Castilian friend accompanied Professor Worcester into the mountains, taking a hunting-piece along, to put some shot, he said, into the first one he came across, for the fun of seeing him run! The capital of Negros was originally located at Jimamailan, but the governor having been murdered, in 1844, in an uprising caused by arbitrary impressments for road-building and for private enterprises, In the island of Cebu, which has scarcely half the extent of Negros, the original forests have nearly all been cut away, and there is little arable land not under cultivation. Sugar is the principal crop, abaca and maize coming next. Cebu has no volcanoes, and the mountain ranges are mostly low. The coasts are high, the rivers of small importance. Gold and lead have been found in the island in small quantities, and while petroleum-beds are known to exist, they remain undeveloped. A carboniferous formation extends over the greater part of the island, and at a great many points outcroppings have been worked, I m _ X X ~~~~~~~~~~~~ WORKING UP SQUARED TIMBER INTO LUMBER There is very little machinery in the Philippines, the universal dependence being hand labor his successor changed it to Bacolod, on the northwest coast, opposite Iloilo. This town, three hundred and seventy-nine miles from Manila, with 6,300 inhabitants, has some good public buildings and fine private residences, but in the harbor the water is so shallow that large vessels have to lighter everything at half a mile from shore. Some twenty-five miles southwest of Bacolod, in the midst of almost impenetrable forests, towers the volcano of Malaspina, one of the great landmarks of the central Philippines. It is said to still continually groan and shake. In the mountains, especially in the south, deer and wild hogs abound. mostly in a small way; but true coal has no more been found here than anywhere else in the Philippines. What is found is a pitchy lignite of superior quality, yet containing scarcely two thirds the per cent ot carbon that true coal does. The discovery of coal in Cebu dates from 1827. The government attached so much importance to it as to decree a monopoly, which, however, was soon abandoned. When the industry was thrown open to all comers coal-mining became the rage, and one or two companies expended large amounts of money on their concessions; but the absence of roads and the necessity of investing large NEGROS, CEBU, LEYTE AND SAMAR 153 sums in railways, in order to compete with Australian and Japanese coal, soon caused a reaction, and most of the workings were abandoned. Nevertheless, in peaceful times Cebu ships thousands of tons of its excellent lignite to Manila annually, and near the town of Cebu a little coal railroad has been almost completed. The town just mentioned, having a population approximating (with its suburbs) 40,000, and situated four hundred and sixty miles from Manila, is the capital. It marks the site of the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines, is the seat of a bishopric, Visayas," though the administration of Visayan revenue was removed to Manila as far back as 1840. It is the Mecca of all devout Filipinos, for the cathedral contains a shrine of the Most Holy Child of Cebu, an image of the Infant Jesus, which is the most sacred of Philippine statues, and tradition says was found on the shore of this island by a soldier hundreds of years ago. It is of ebony and only fifteen inches high, but it is covered with silver trinkets and other offerings. The patronal fiesta occurs on the twentieth of January, when the official honors of a field-marshal were formerly rendered the sacred presence by lines of THE FIRST DECORATION DAY IN MANILA, MAY 30, 1899 The cemetery where the American soldiers bury their dead is situated on the highest ground adjoining the city and has a fine cathedral and several churches. It is well built, and the roads in the vicinity are good. The port was opened to foreign trade in 1842, the first in the archipelago after Manila, to which it ranks next as a henip center. In sugar exporting it comes third, or next after lloilo. Tie white houses of the town come almost to the water's edge, and with the churches are beautifully set off, when viewed from a ship in the harbor, against the dark green mountains in the background. Cebu in Spanish times was the center of administration for the "Government of the troops drawn up for review, and when its devotees thronged the town from hundreds of miles away. The islet of Mactan, close by, consists of an old coral reef eight or ten feet above sea-level. At the northern edge stands an ancient dilapidated convent. The greater part of the island is covered with a growth of aquatic mangroves, the rest with cocoanut plantations. On its west coast Magellan was killed, amid the circumstances mentioned on page 11. Leyte and Samar are so much out of the way of Philippine tourists they would be almost unknown 154 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND were it not for their large shipments of hemp-supplemented with sugar, cocoanuts and a few other products-chiefly to Cebu, but in part to Manila. In the Filipino-American war they were scarcely heard of. Both islands are mountainous, with high, steep coasts in most places dangerous of approach. )f Samar, the steamer passes amid a continuous pelago of little high and richly wooded islands, nipa huts and crops of abaca everywhere in nee. Catbalogan is known in the inter-island as quite a hemp port, and in front of many es the white fiber during most of the year can be seen hanging out on long 2 lines of liana or rope, to dry. Its population slightly exceeds that of Tacloban, and its distance from Manila is the same. Samar is visited yearly witl devastating tornadoes, and neitlier it nor Leyte has any roads to speak k-~^ ~ of. In b)otl islands, lint es-,fe^ l~ptecially in Samar, the high, ' ' -'. Imountains and thick forests " i* I of the interior shelter various savage tril)es unvisited as yet by whites. What is l)elieved to be the largest existil i ng slecies of eagle an IEngd&F i. (i| lish naturalist discovered, in 18(96, on 01 aliar, where it lives albove the level of the boundless forests, and is said to feed uplon Imonkeys. It weiglhs from sixteen to twenty pouinds, while the average weight of a golden eagle, ype of its species, is but twelve. More powerful even the harpy eagle, it has a deep and extraarily formidabl.e bleak, well miatched by its tre1ous claws. The single specimen which the alist obtained was disa)led by a )uckshot in the and was taken down with extreme difficulty the tree to which it clung, by a native hunter. A MANGO-TREE This fine specimen was photographed on the island of Bohol The capital of Leyte is Tacloban, on the northeastern the t: coast, by steamer three hundred and thirty-eight miles than from Manila. It contains a population of about 6,000. ordin "A number of hemp storehouses line the water-front, mend and, as usual, the ever-present Chinese are the central natui figures of the commnercial part of the community." neck, From Tacloban northeast to Catbalogan, the cap- from SULU PEARL-FISHERIES: THE MOROS T HE pleasant navigation of the Sulu sea may serve to make it a favorite stage, perhaps, in the trips of the coming equatorial steamship line that will be scheduled, as soon as the Nicaragua canal is finished, to circumnavigate the globe in eighty days; and personally conducted parties in less haste may even have a day's excursion thrown in for a glimpse of the pearl-fisheries. This is one of the extremely few industries to which that unspeakable loafer, the Moro, is willing to turn his hand, and as a diver he ranks with the best of the Ceylonese, who stay under water from two to three minutes. All pearls above a certain size supposedly went, till very recently, to the Sultan of Sulu, who is the lord paramount of the Mohammedan tribes in general throughout the southern Philippines. The decline of the pearl-fislheries of Ceylon and the Persian gulf led to a great development of those in Australian and Sulu waters, though the English companies specially interested, like the American monopoly handling the sealing business of Alaska, have carefully avoided taking the public into their confidence. A great London jewelry firm is said to control this line of enterprise in the Far East, and to direct the annual cruises of a few dozen small or moderate-sized schooners engaged in it. These vessels SULU PEARL-FISHERIES: THE MOROS 155 have European officers and supercargoes, but the divers employed are all natives, except a few white professionals trained to the use of diving-apparatus. The Moro diver's methods are extremely simple. HTe strips off his clothing, provides himself with a knife and net bag, ties a stolne to his feet, draws a deep breath, and overboard he goes. I-le is let down rapidly by a rope to the l)ottomr, usually from thirty to forty feet, though possibly it is double that. Working his fastest, he cuts the shells from the rocks within reach, puts tllenl in his net bag, gives the cord a signal pull, and with his garnered treasure is drawn up. Ravenous sharks occasionally gather, but The Moros of these parts were so called by the Spaniards from their being of the same faith as the Moors, those ancient infidels and deadly enemies in the home land. Occasionally a writer calls them Suluts. Tradition has it their conversion to Mohamnedanismn dates back eight hundred years, when they dwelt in Borneo, and was literally at the hands-the Koran in one hand, a sword in the other-of fierv missionaries direct from Arabia. Entering the Philiplpines about the same time the Spaniards did, perllaps they might, but for the latter, have made Aguinaldo's people a subject Moslem race. They rapidly occupied the Sulu archipelago, the island of MAJOR-GENERAL ARTHUR MACARTHUR AND STAFF The contrast between the U. S. army blue blouse and the light uniforms customarily worn in the Far East is much in favor of the latter these he has been trained from childhood to attack, so that generally lie does not much mind them. When tile schooner has oltained twenty thousand slells, more or less, it pults in to shore, where its damp, strong-smelling accumulations are landed and spread out on the beach, for the sun to hasten decomposition and permit the pearls to be easily detached. While they are true pearls only in small part, the rest being mother-of-pearl, all have a commercial value. Such is the exhausting nature of the pearl-diver's occupation that he can hardly hope for more than a dozen or fifteen years of life after he takes it up. Basilan, parts of Mindanao, and away to the west Balal)ac and southern Palawan, and notwithstanding all efforts to curb it, the headship of the Sulu sultan is still virtually acknowledged in all these different lands. Of course, there are subordinate sultans alnd rajahs in remote parts, also datos (chiefs) many, with p)andlitas, or priests, in every village, and numeroIus (llerifs, who are higher dignitaries guiding the faithful in both temporal and spiritual affairs. During the first period of European occupation the dominating pirates were Japanese, who scoured the seas from Siam to Siberia, preyed on the Chinese and 156 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND widely scattered Malaysians, and kept everything agog with their alternate trading and fighting. But once started in the Philippine raiding business (as they were in seeking revenge for Spanish inroads in Mindanao), the Moros in the seventeenth century made their foray the great event of the year. "With each recurring southwest monsoon hordes of them manned their war-praus and sailed north, where they harried the coasts until the change of monsoons warned them to return home. Thousands of captives were taken, men were compelled to harvest their own crops for the benefit of their captors, and were then foreign sailing-vessels were attacked and captured. The Spaniards did not tamely submit to this state of affairs. Expedition after expedition was organized. Millions of dollars and thousands of lives were wasted. remporary successes were gained, but they resulted in io permanent advantage. On several occasions landngs were made on Sulu itself, forts built and garrions established, only to be driven from the island or massacred to a man. Not until the day of rapid-fire runs and light-draft steam-gunboats were they finally confined to the southern waters of the archipelago. Beyond this achievement Spanish control never went. An efficient patrol of gunboats was established, and the Moro praus were forbidden to put to sea without first t0 l y obtaining a written permit from the:007.-nearest Spanish governor. They were also ordered to fly the Spanish flag. E1 rft When a prau was encountered that did not show the flag, or was not provided with a permit, it was rammed and cut in two, or sunk by the fire of machineguns. No quarter was given. Various points in Mindanao, Basilan, TawiTawi and Balabac were taken and fortified. Many of the Moro coast villages on these islands were burned and a IH| the inhabitants driven inland; and there finally arose a sort of armed, truce, which was broken at intervals by both parties." [Professor Worcester in the Century Magazine.] Their harems recruited for centuries with the women of numberless tribes of Malaysia, and even some of.c!^ | European nationalities (for until the; Zl ^ ~ days of steam few merchant vessels could hold their own against the swarming praus of these pirates), the Moros are of very mixed blood. Yet they possess characteristics entirely distinctive. They are three to five iches taller than the Tagals, and, what with their car training from infancy and their constant practice n boating, their physical development is often uperb. In garments of gaudy colors, perhaps showy embroidered-trousers skin-tight below the knees nd very loose above, sleeved vest decked with many uttons, a very gay sash, and a fez or turban-they re indeed a picturesque set of cutthroats, with gleamng eyes and dare-devil mien. Above the age of xteen every male goes armed. Besides the kris the ivorite weapon is the barong, something like a utcher's cleaver, with which it is child's play to lop MORO CHIEF- TAI AN H OUE, O LD.- RH -MI I MORO CHIEFTAIN AND HOUSEHOLD, NORTHERN MINDANAO butchered in cold blood, while women and children were carried away, the former to enrich the seraglios of Moro chiefs, the latter to be brought up as slaves. For two and a half centuries this state of affairs continued. Emboldened by continual success, the Moros no longer confined their attention to the defenseless natives. Spanish planters and government officials were killed or held for ransom. But the delight of the grim Moslem warriors was to make prisoners of the Spanish priests and friars, toward whom they displayed the bitterest hatred. Islands which had once been populous were almost depopulated. Even MINDANAO AND THE SULUS 157 off a head, an arm or a leg, and the owner's pride to cut an opponent in two at a single side stroke. Not even the "strenuous" Norseman reveling in combat and gory ship-decks placed so light a value on human life. To try the edge of his new barong a Moro will halve a slave without giving the matter a second thought. Moro weapons, including a two-handled sword and a light round shield, are all home-made, and their cutting instruments, wonders of finish and temper, are sometimes inlaid with silver or even gold. Occasionally a warrior clothes himself in chain-armor. In battle the Moro is as fearless as he is treacherous in everything. For him work is degradation, the lot of slaves. Yet he is not above begging like a mendicant when the white man has anything he wants. The women are described as excessively fond of bright colors, especially scarlet and green, and wearing a tight-fitting bodice, showing every line of the bust and arms, a baggy skirt which is divided, and a long piece of nondescript drapery, worn in a great variety of ways, or even used as a protection from the sun. The children wear about as much clothing as among the Tagals-for the most part nothing. Most of their time is spent in the water, and they swim and dive like ducks; for the family lives in a seaside village, built on posts over the tide, rude bridges connecting it with the shore, and praus being tied below, ready at a moment's notice. The Spanish gunboats knocked hundreds of such villages to pieces with neatness and dispatch, and perfect impunity.. t, . I I INDEPENDENT MORO CHIEFTAIN OF NORTHERN MINDANAO, WITH WARRIORS, CHILDREN AND SERVANTS MINDANAO AND TI-E SULUS T HE great island of Mindanao, where, as mentioned on page 11, the first formal rites of Spanish sovereignty took place, is the least known and least settled of the Philippine group. The first settlements about Surigao, at the northern extremity, were the scene of a bloody insurrection in 1629, that lasted three years. The settling process extended slowly to other points, but complete administrative organization dates only from the decree of July 30, 1860, establishing the "Government of Mindanao and the Adjacent Islands." (See page 29.) The interior is known to be largely occupied by elevated mountain chains, in which occur noted volcanoes, Mount Apo being nearly eleven thousand feet high. The rivers are numerous, and some of them, such as the Agusan, Cagayan and Rio Grande de Mindanao, are of large volume. The last mentioned is navigable for sixty miles by boats of three and one half feet draft, and flows through a wide valley, fertile and beautiful. The Agusan is navigable for only twenty miles. Civilization simply fringes Mindanao. It is confined to the Spanish towns scattered along the seacoast and lower parts of various rivers, these towns being principally inhabited by Visayan and other emigrants from islands further north. Neither the Pagan nor Moro indigenes ever submitted to wear the yoke of the Christian white man. Of late years the Spanish wars, chiefly waged in the country back of Iligan bay, were hollow affairs gotten up by the Governor-General for the sake of bravos and decorations to be gained by imaginary or fruitless victories, or as a speculative fraud on the Madrid government, 158 OUR PHILIPPINE WONDERLAND the pickings reaching annually from $200,000 up. "Young boys from the north," wrote Stevens in his usual lively way, "have been drafted into native regiments to go on this fatal errand. The prisons of Manila have been emptied, and the convicts, armed with bolos, have followed their more righteous brethren to the front. Well-trained native troops have gone there; Spanish troops have gone; officers have tried it, but to no end. If in the storming of some Moro stronghold, a dozen miles inland, the convicts in the front rank were cut to pieces, it was of no authorities were doing everything possible to keep the Moros from getting. A German newspaper lately spoke of a narrow-gage military railway, twenty-one miles long, built by German capital and workmen, but did not locate it. Mindanao's exports of sugar, cacao, alaca, indigo, etc., have much increased within the past twenty years, and a further great development of production will occur as soon as the interior can be opened up. A large timber trade is another item in the coming outlook, the immense forests yielding a splendid variety of hard woods, headed by a mahogany of such giant size that United States A!;,? ('Consul Williams, of Manila,recently shipped to his home in New York a section over - seven feet in diameter. This island has i.E. -:- long been the center of a trade in allujc~~~ vial gold, while specimens of gold-bearing,*, — quartz, etc., have been repeatedly found; and i here grows, two thousand feet above sea' level, the largest flower in the world, the bolo, having five petals from two and one half to three feet wide, while a single flower often weighs, so it is said, from eighteen to twenty-two pounds. / ery curious are the villages of the Mandayas, a primitive tribe far inland, who oan build their huts from thirty to fifty feet above the ground, in the forks of trees, the object being to escape massacre by the head-lhunting baganinis ("men of might") et/em A u h ett afrom other districts. Xt h~ew: s aSometimes the baganinis set these aerial gad dr; =;; i abodes on fire with a ^^^^Slon g p r, eft: y - their burning arrows, _ay_ yetbomea place ofior aain a phralanx of them climb the trees, keeping their prncpa seat of he scattshields locked overheadc, cut away the )ANAO bracing posts, and oading of their storesre the inmates, 6 captture the inmates, who are summarily disposed of-the men beheaded on the spot, the women and children carried off as slaves. Mindanao's leading port is Zamboanga, in the extreme southwest. It was opened to all nations at the same time as Iloilo, but extortionate harbor dues gradually drove foreign trade away. The harbor has a long pier, the defenses left by the Spaniards are strong, and under more progressive rule Zamboanga may yet become a iplace of importance and a port of call for steamers to Australia. The town covers many squares, and it is well kept and clean. The principal seat of the scattered Jesuit missions is SCENE IN DAVAO GULF, SOUTHERN MIND A party of British naturalists are superintending the unl importance. If the drafted youths were slaughtered, there were more at home. If the native troops failed to carry the charge, things began to look serious. But if the Spanish companies were touched, it was time to flee. Such have been the tactics in this great graveyard, and where the Moros lost the day fever stepped in and won. The interior still swarms with savages, who are there to contest Spain's advance, and are daily tramping over the many graves of her soldiers." Next to Spanish has come German activity in Mindanao. Some of this nationality are known to have smuggled in firearms and ammunition, which the MINDA NAO A ND THE S ULUS15 159 in- the southeast, at lDavaqo. Many of thes e s-el~f-sacrificing menl have fallen at their pmost, bint the work goes on. In tile Philippjiiices tile Jesuits,.not lbeiino al Iowe(I to hiold cuiracics, (levote thleiisclvcs Avlu1lly, to 5( icc, to e((1 cation,nl]] to ulissian1 WVOrk. The Stilt archipel+.Bi tt i;; mmarked the fatal spot until BT IN E r t 1874, when a neat monument was erected by leading British and American LLED BUT UNROOFED residents of Honotllu. IDOLATROUS TEMPLE OF ANCIENT HAWAII, WAI 183 184 HA WA IIAN AMERICA At the time of Cook's visits eacl island was governed by one or more chiefs, who lorded it over a series of subordinate chiefs, in genuinely feudal style. Besides the order of nobles (chiefs and sub-chiefs), the islanders consisted of the priests and common the products of the soil, the fish in the sea, and everything. They gave and they took away as suited their fancy; but as the common people had the privilege of transferring their allegiance from one master to another, and it was they who furnished the fighting force, a chief unusually arbitrary or reenwic.h 155~ oppressive soon had cause to rue it. Operated by the nobles, as well as by the priests, for their own benefit, _ that peculiar South Sea institution, the taboo, flourished in all its glory. IA l l If a chief wanted the ripening crop of some patch of taro he stuck up a pole in it somewhere with a white i. l streamer attached, and this made it al?a A:~Y^ nhis, taboo from that moment to the humble cultivator. If he required;2^ ^^^ l unusually large quantities of fuel ___._ - eua 20 for any purpose, the chief declared 4,rIO;!xi fire to be taboo, and the common,: PN people had to eat their food raw. Vt epaw4 Tradition tells how a chief would 19 occasionally declare all preventable Pt. noise taboo, and then not only had the people to refrain from conver78~ sation, but dogs were muzzled, and chickens penned in calabashes to keep them from crowing. To women some most desirable articles of common food were taboo all their lives, among them cocoanuts, bananas, pork, turtle and several kinds of fish. On them the fantastic system bore with great severity. The penalty for breaking a taboo even a child could understand-death. people. These last were serfs holding even their lives at the mercy of the chiefs. Might was right in every relation of life. There was no law of marriage, and among the nobles the number of women in the household was whatever the master chose or was able to make it. The chiefs own6d all the land, KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT: CIVILIZATION N 1782 a powerful chief upon the west coast of Hawaii died, and in the division of his estates a nephew, Kamehameha, got control of two districts of that island. A warrior of distinction, Kamehameha formed the plan of subjugating the entire group. For this ambitious task alertness of mind and force of character well adapted him, while such was his personal prowess that once "when six spears were hurled at him at the same moment, he caught three, parried two, and evaded the other." Ships of different na tions were now touching at the island, and in retaliation for an outrageous act of cruelty the natives captured two American ships, in 1789, killing every soul aboard except Isaac Davis and John Young. Kindly treated, raised to the rank of nobles, and given wives of that rank, these two became prominent figures in the triumphs of their savage sovereign, and in paving the way for Hawaiian civilization. Young, who was a man of much more than usual ability, eventually attained a position equivalent to prime minister. SURF-RIDER, DIAMOND HEAD IN THE DISTANCE KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT: CIVILIZA TION 185 Taught the use of firearms by the two whites, Kainehameha's followers put to sea in their canoes, invaded Maui island and conquered it, in 1790, for their great chief. On their return to Hawaii a severe struggle took place with the neighboring chiefs there, but again Kamehamela proved victorious. Then came the really daring exploit of attacking the chief paramount of (ahu island, one hundred and fifty miles distant. From a fleet of canoes and several small sail-boats the little army, strengthened by some English sailor refugees, were landed where -Ionolulu now stands, and the beautiful Nuuanu valley, just back of it, became a slaughter-pen. Up through the valley the defeated Oahu warriors were driven to the top of Pali precipice, where the women and children had retired for safety at the outset. In terror-stricken despair, first these helpless ones and then the warriors flung themselves over the precipice, and were dashed to pieces twelve hundred feet below. Their bodies were left for birds of prey and other of nature's scavengers, and the bones to bleach in the lpitiless sun, and there An elaborate a they still lie, hidden by the shrubbery and grass. This tragedy happened in 1795. The consolidation of the islands into one empire dates from that year, though the chief of Kaui did not I BRONZE STATUE OF KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT nd highly artistic work that stands in front of the Legislative Building, which is shown on page 194 tender his submission until 1810. His ambized, the conqueror bent his great energies to the miseries wrought by war, and bettering the condition of his people. From a kindly successor of Cook, Captain George Vancouver, who visited Hawaii island several times (1792 to 1794), he gratefully received the gifts of cattle and sheep -before unknown in the islands-and seeds and usea! t ful plants. For ten years the live stock were taboo, thus giving them time to multiply for the benefit of all. To please Kamehameha Captain Vancouver had the keel of a vessel laid for him, and a dozen years later another Fnglishman found him with twenty vessels of twenty-five to fifty tons burden, and he ELABORATELY CARVED IDOLS OF AN ANCIENT HAWAIIAN TEMPLE 186 HA WA IIAN AMERICA HARBOR OF HONOLULU, WITH SHIPPING, AND THE MOUNTAIN RANGE BEHIND THE CITY purchased others afterward from foreigners. Finding the aboriginal sandalwood in great demand for shipment to China, he went into the business sys tematically, putting into it a number of vessels of his own, one eventually of two hundred tons burden. Prime Minister Young advised the building of a fort on the present site of Honolulu. The king gave him a carte-blanche, and Young built a fort of coral limestone, thickwalled and strong, mounting it with cannon; and soon the Russians, who had presumed to put up a rival fort and organize a colony, had to haul down their flag and sneak back to Alaska. Under Kamehameha industrial activity succeeded incessant turmoil and murderous wars. Pestilence and the wide-spread effect of viciouis contact with foreign sailors made havoc of the population, but those that remained enjoyed lpeace -and for the most part plenty. On May 8, 1819, the rugged old monarch died, at the age of eighty-two, showing agaain that he was losing faith in the traditional. deities by almost his last command, which was to forbid the sacrifice of rHER-HUBBARD DRESS human life to effect his man bone that completes its )rt of fetish recovery. The one com AGED KANAKA WOMAN IN THE CUSTOMARY HOLAKU, OR MO' The tress worn as necklace is human hair, and together with the hul efficacious value is both a good-luck charm and a so KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT: CIVILIZA TION 187 manding figure in Hawaiian history, Kamehameha the Great well deserves the splendid monument of bronze, executed in Europe by high-priced artists, that stands in front of the Legislative Building, in Honolulu. One of the first acts of his son and successor, Kamehameha II., was, at a great feast held in October, 1820, to induce the major part of the chiefs to defy the traditional gods, tumble many of the idols into the sea, and destroy their temples (built of piled stones for walls without any roof), and at the same time to abolish taboo. A short-lived rebellion was one sequel. Another and far more important dawned when, on April 4, 1820, a little company of American missionaries arrived from Boston, under the leadership of the now revered Bingham and Thurston. Kindly received by the amiable and usually half-drunken young king, the missionaries quickly acquired the language and began their work. An English missionary, William Ellis, with some of his Christianized people from the Society islands, visited Honolulu and helped them to reduce the Hawaiian language to writing. The king and his court set the example of study, to the extent of gaining the rudiments of an education. The influence of the missionaries steadily increased. They taught the natives how to cultivate THE PALI, AT THE HEAD OF NUUANU VALLEY the cotton-plant, and how to spin and weave its fiber. They showed them how to extract sugar from the cane. They instructed the people in the comforts and decencies of civilized life. Presently roads began to be made and bridges to be built, a newspaper was established, and industry prospered. A docile race were at once led into the light of Christianity and given the benefits of civilization, the work after 1837, which was the epoch of a great religious revival, making redoubled progress. By 1840 Christianity had become the accepted faith of the nation. Marriage and the Christian sacraments replaced the ancient A PINEAPPLE ORCHARD NEAR HONOLULU 188 HA WAIIAN AMERICA I I Kamehameha IV. wielded the scepter from 1854 to 1863, and when Kamehamehla V. died, in 1872, the old Kainehameha line came to an end. Lunalilo, a cousin of the last mentioned, was elected king by the legislature, and upon his death, in February, 1873, David Kalakaua was similarly elected, after sharp fighting in and around the Legislative Building, in which the adherents of another claimant, Dowager Queen Emma, widow of Kamehameha IV., were worsted. A scandalously gay and festive monarch, a hard drinker and a profligate, Kalakaua seemed to regard himself as king of the native Hawaiians merely, and foreign residents as alien invaders. He did his best to change the form of government and make himself a little czar. In 1887, bly which time he had swollen the national debt to almost two millions of dollars, a revolution, headed by business men of Honolulu, obliged him to grant a new constitution designed to put an end to mere personal government, and to make the king directly responsible to the national legislature chosen by the people. NUUANU AVENUE, HONOLULU unspeakable debaucheries and horrid superstitions. Notwithstanding deeply ingrained hereditary vices, with conduct which often grieved the missionaries deeply, the family became a cherished fact, temperance principles gained the ascendancy, the Sabbath was legally sanctioned, and the churches were filled with reverent worshipers, the schools with attentive pupils. Endowments for charitable purposes were begun, the inauguration of a comprehensive system of benevolence hardly surpassed in the world. With Christianity came constitutional government, a representative parliament, a code of laws, a public-school system, regulated tariffs and other taxes, post-offices, internal improvements, courts ably and honestly conducted, and other customary features of wise and progressive administration. KIamehameha II. died of measles, in 1824, when on a visit to England. Kamehameha III., who was his younger brother, executed a treaty with the United States (1826); had trouble with France over the unfriendly treatment accorded Roman Catholic priests, but got out of it by paying an indemnity of $20,000 (1839), religious toleration having been already decreed; and simultaneously he promulgated a bill of rights, in the interests of ITawaiians and foreigners alike, and the next year (1840) gave the kingdom a definite constitution, which he further liberalized in 1852. The laws were modeled after those of the United States, but at the same time the midget monarchy displayed all the titles of majesty, conferred knighthood, etc., and aped in almost everything the manners of European royalty, and it boasted a standing army of seventy men. DOWAGER QUEEN EMMA AMERICANIZED HA WAH: ANNEXATION 189 INDIGENOUS COCOANUT GROVE, WITH THE INVARIABLE MOUNTAIN BACKGROUND AMERICANIZED HAWAII: ANNEXATION IT WAS inevitable, considering their geographical and trade relations, and the molding of their whole civilization by New England missionaries, that the Iawaiian islands should be dominated by American influence. When the sandalwood trade came to an end, as it did soon after 1820, through the almost complete destruction of the trees, a lively traffic had sprung up with the Pacific whalers, the vast majority of which were Aiericans. A little later it was American judges to whom fell the duty of interpreting the laws previously framed after American precedents. Of the executive officers under the king some were English, but more were American, while the public instructors were nearly all of the latter nationality. Honolulu, which in 1820 was a scattered village of grass huts and three thousand inhabitants, grew steadily, as being the sole mid-Pacific emporium and a business center noted for its financial soundness, and the main factors in its prosperity were American enterprise and American OLD HAY capital. The swarms of gold-seekers in California having created a great demand there for Hawaiian vegetables, San Francisco during some three seasons depended almost entirely on Honolulu for its potatoes, etc., and notwithstanding the regular settlement of our Pacific coast territory virtually extinguished this trade ere long, the two ports came more and more to stand in the relation to each other of neighbors. The amiable and ease-loving survivors of the passing aboriginal race were no match for the energy and business ambition of the constantly increasing foreign element, among whom influential most of all were those Hawaiian-born Americans, the sons of missionaries, teachers and early merchants. In 1854 a project for annexing Hawaii to the United States was strongly agitated in Honolulu, and Kamehameha III. favored it. In September, 1876, under the operation of a new commercial treaty, the manufactures of the United States IAN IDOL and the chief agricultural products of 190 HA WAIIAN AMERICA "missionary party," and which in reality was the pith of national character and nationalstrength. Desiring more power for herself and for the native population, she at once camie into conflict with the national legislature, and when, in January, 1893, she attempted to force her cabinet to approve a new constitution which would practically have changed the governrlent from a limited to an absolute monarchy, besides disfranchising a class of citizens who paid two thirds of the taxes, oilposition took definite shape.:Mbainly by the Hawaiian-born and immigrant Americans a Committee of Safety was organized, which deposed the Queen and set in operation a provisional government under the presidlency of Sanford B. lDole, son of an Americanl missionary-"until termls of annexation to the UInited States of America should be agreed upon." iND HOUSEHOLD Actively sustaining these ordinary style is one story proceedings, the U~nited States minister, John L. Stevens, caused the marines from the ITnited States war-vessels in the harbor to be landed, ostensibly for the protection of American FATHER LYMAN, ONE OF THE EARLY MISSIONARIES, A The dwelling here shown is exceptional in being two-storied; the Hawaii began to be reciprocally admitted duty free, a policy that bound the little island kingdom very *closely to the great republic. The resultant development of Hawaiian resources surpassed all expectation,.and intimately connected Awith this developiment cane a very large increase in the foreign population. On January 29, 1891, the United States cruiser (Charleston entered Htonolulu harbor with flags at half-mast, and the dead body of King Kalakaua from San Francisco, whither he had gone in the vain search of health. On the same day his sister, wife of John 0. Dominis, an American and governor of Oahu, took the oath to maintain the constitution, and was proclaimed queen under the title of Liliuokalani. Her career proved a great disappointment, for besides being vacillating and hysterical, she was filled with unreasoning prejudice against what was called the 1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~..~~~~~~~~~~~~" AMERICANIZED HA WAI: ANNEXATION 191 interests. The annexation treaty which President Harrison promptly sent to the United States wast withdrawn by President Cleveland three weeks later, and the latter further made overtures tendering the good offices of the administration in restoring Liliuokalani to power; but when Mr. Willis, the new American minister, found it necessary to inform the president that the ex-queen would not forego her intention of taking summary vengeance upon all who had assisted in dethroning her, the generous project had to be abandoned. Liliuokalani was afterward arrested for complicity in a plot (which ignominiously failed) to overthrow the government and blow up the government buildings, but her friends eventually secured her release. There being no hope of immediate annexation, the Republic of Hawaii was formally proclaimed, on July 4, 1894, with Mr. Dole as its president, and at the same time a new constitution, duly liberal, was promulgated; and the republic was recognized by President Cleveland as the de facto government. The world soon grew accustomed to the idea of the absorption of Hawaii by the United States, and at length the self-evident advantages of utilizing the islands as a naval base for operations in the Philippines broke down the opposi- MASONIC TEM IM IMM BISHOP MUSEUM AND ARCHEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE, HONOLULU;jI and on July 7th was signed by the president. The resolution provided for a commission of five, two of them resident Hawaiians (the Americans appointed by the president being Senator Morgan, Senator Cullom and Honorable R. R. Hitt), to recommend to Congress such legisla-. tion as they might deem advisable; assumed the public debt of Hawaii, to an amount not exceeding four umillion dollars; prohibited Chinese immNigrab tion; abrogated all existing lHawaiian treaties. with other nationalities; te H yONOeLso -a and, pending permanent in te r, ca Ilegslation bt y Congrees, placed the island under control of the president, who was likewise empowered to appoint suitable the oath of allegiance to the IUnited States. Not a word was spoken by the great assemblage as the HIawaiian flag, after it had been saluted for the last time by the shore-battery and the American flag-ship in the larbor, came slowly down; but not many eyes were dry, and tears rolled down the cheeks of men and women, old and young. The vast majority believed the change was for the best, yet they could not but think of the happy years they had spent under the old banner. Then when the American flag rose steadily to its place and floated majestically to the breeze, the sun broke out from behind hitherto obscuring clouds, the bands played the inspiring "Star-Spangled Banner," thousands of cheers arose as a single voice, and shore-battery and ships made the air tremble again with their salute. [P] tion of Congress. President McKinley had negotiated a new annexation treaty and sent it to the Senate, where it hung fire for months. Representative F. G. Newlands, of Nevada, proposed a point resolution designed to accomplish the same end, and it passed both houses of Congress by decisive majorities, -m PRINCESS RUTH'S PALACE, NOW THE HONOLULU HIGH SCHOOL 192 HA WA IIAN AMERICA The consummlation had not conie until after the Pacific coast of the United States had foun(d in Iawaii the most profitable of foreign customers; after all but one hundred and ninety-nine dollars' worth of H-awaii's sugar exports (1897), amounting in value to $15,390,442, had colme to this country; after twentytwo and one half millions out of the thirty millions of dollars invested in its sugar plantations was American Amnericanls of either the first or second generation were carrying on the great bulk of the business of wllatever kind, aid filling nearly every ee public office of general importance and weiglity responsibility; and after llonolulu not only had a regular p)ost of the Grandl Army of the Republic, but had acquired the habit of showing its interest in Americaln politics by voting informally for president of the United States. i: I ~i:g. E r Ilk i I d:i ~;::-:::,::::::::::::::::,:::j:::::::i:.:. ANNEXATION CEREMONIES AT EXECUTIVE BUILDING, HONOLULU, AUGUST 12, 1898, UNITED STATES MARINES IN FOREGROUND capital; after American engineering and American activity had given Honolulu its beautiful drives, its street railway, and its railroads extending into the country and touching at most of the important plantations of sugar, coffee or fruit on Oahu; after a system of irrigation had sprung from the same source that in time will double productiveness throughout most of the islands, as also plans for a diversification of crops sure to prove exceedingly beneficial; after Japan was the only foreign government that seriotlsly objected. Such strength as the opposition had in the islands themselves came almost wholly from foreigners other than Americans, who either through marriage or by business engagements enjoyed special and money-making chances under the monarchy, or else from a cabal of noisy half-castes never overburdened with prestige. Native unfriendliness to the change was entirely natural, but events showed it to AMERICANIZED HAWAII: ANNEXATION 193 bIe entirely passive and sentimental. Under the Republic of Hawaii, officered chieflyby men born on the soil, the vanishing native race was considerately and even paternally cared for, and annexation brought no change for them, unless to extend their franchise. When the United States Congress adjourned on March 4, 1899, it had taken no action on the elaborate report of the commission of five above referred to. IThe status quo therefore continued. While Governor Dole and his associates remained in charge of their several offices as representatives of President McKinley, and the routine of administra-::;" 8;ri tion went on, the need of a permanent policy in respect to land, labor and transportation, all which were problems pressing for solution, was strongly felt in Hawaii. The area of the several HIawaiian islands is as follows: Hawaii, 4,210 square miles; Maui, 760; Oahu, 600; Kaui, 590; Molokai, 270; Lanai,150; Niihau, 97; Kahoolawe, 63; total, 6,740 square miles. The tiny westernmost island (northwest of Niihau) is named Layson, and is valuable as a guano-bed. It is uninhabited, save by millions of sea-birds, whose eggs, gathered in vast numbers, are shipped occasionally to make albumen from. QUEEN LILIUOKALANI, DEPOSED IN 1893 A GROUP OF KING KALAKAUA'S HULA-GIRLS ON THE BEACH AT WAIKIKI Native musical instruments, called ukulele, resemble a very small guitar, and give forth a peculiarly high-pitched, strident sound 13 194 HA WAIIAN AMERICA THE LEGISLATIVE BUILDING, HONOLULU In this building (not to be confounded with the Executive Building, shown on page 192) the Hawaiian Senate and House meet HONOLULU AND SUBURBS H ONOLILU, the capital of Hawaiian America and the heart of its life and trade, is situated on Oahu, the third in size of the eight inhabited islands. Its port has the only complete harbor on the group where steamers land at a pier, and it is the only town, except HIilo, on the island of Hawaii, that has even pretended to adopt modern airs and: to emulate modern stir. Ages ago the upheaval of I?,'?& an old reef converted a;t former bay into a plain a i mile wide and two miles long, about twenty-five feet above the sea, and over this plain spreads IHonolulu, running back I _ for miles up the beautiful Nuuanu and other:. valleys toward the inte- rior. The steamer makes the trip out from San Francisco in six days, or KAWAIAHAU NATIVE CHURCH perhaps a few hours longer-the same time practically that the voyage takes from New York to Liverpool. Through a channel narrow but deep enough for vessels of the heaviest draft the harbor is entered, within the encircling coral reef, and a stream of youthful Kanakas (natives) put out from the beach to escort the vessel to the pier, Thailing it with greetings of welcomne and showing off their marvelous agility on and in the water, especially by diving for the petty coins that some of the amusement-loving passengers are very likely to throw over the ship's side toward them. Here the traveler finds himself in a moderrn-bnilt town equipped with perhaps the most complete and best-served telephone BUILT OF CORAL LIMESTONE system in the world, and t, HONOLULU AND SUBURBS 195 displaying all the features of an enterprising American city. The public library contains thirteen thousand volumes. The fire department is well organized. The streets are macadamized, and there are miles and miles of handsome drives about the city, besides those up the lovely valleys beyond, and tropical verdure and sweet odors crown the scenery everywhere. Still Honolulu shows some queer contrasts- rubber-tired hacks, but no sewerage; avenues electric-lighted, but without sidewalks in the residence portions; tropical foliage and an exuberance of tropical flowers embowering the I)rimmest of New England architecture; a market that might easily be filled with the diversified vegetables of both the temperate and the torrid A zones, but where canned corn and tomatoes and i peas are sold in the shops through the whole year; every good reason why living should be cheap, while in actual experience it is about the highest-priced locality under the Stars and Stripes outside of frozen Alaska. But, after all, 1ionolulu's advantages are superb. Its harbor is one of the best in the world, and in it steamers from every maritime country may be seen during the year. The distance across the Pacific ocean is seven thousand miles and upward, and the paragraph CENTRAL UNION CHURCH, HO has gone the rounds that "in this ocean from the equator to Alaska, and from the coast of China and Japan to the American continent, there is but one spot where a ton of coal, a pound of bread or a gallon of water can be obtained by a passing vessel, and that spot is Hawaii." Of course, this is spread-eagle exaggeration, but the truth remains that Hawaii marks the cross-roads of the Pacific, and is the great supply-point en route for the whole transpacific carrying trade. Leading distances are: San Francisco, 2,089 miles; Auckland, New Zealand, 3,810; Sydney, Australia, 4,484; Yokohama, Japan, 3,440; Hong-Kong, China, 4,893; and 4,200 miles to the Pacific end of the proposed Nicaraguan canal. Strategically the great value of our Hawaiian acquisition can hardly be overestimated, NOLULU, ATTENDED BY ALL THE LEADING AMERICAN FAMILIES provided we maintain a navy sufficient to defend it. Captain Mahan, an unsurpassed authority on naval warfare, calls it one of the most important points in the world. "It stands alone," he says, "having no rival and admitting no rival." No naval vessel ever built for a European or Asiatic power could carry enough coal from any existing naval station to operate against the United States and return without coaling. 196 HA WA IIAN AMERICA In Honolulu royal palms shade every street and drive. Begonias of different hues grow like field-flowers. Numerous and well-kept gardens display thousands of lilies, orchids, chrysanthemums and other flowers, but the dominant tone, the one that a tourist carries away with him, is given by that magnificent magentacolored creeper the Bougainvillea, which clambers over every housetop, high or low, rich or poor, and over public buildings, churches, and the walls universally. The houses, set well back from the street and reached by trim walks, are seldom grand or imposing, but they are always neat and have a delightful air of home A BLOOD comfort, and generally they are of good size. Nature supplies surroundings of gorgeous beauty, in profusion and variety simply astonishing. Rubber-trees, banians, bamboos, papayas, alligatorpears, mangoes, Bougainvilleas, prolific night-blooming cereus, gay crotons, magnolias, oleanders and numberless others, all growing in one dooryard, is no uncommon spectacle, with the grand royal palm towering over all. Great pride is taken in the lawns and dooryards, the harmonious and artistic effects obtained in which are often very striking. Oranges, bananas, dates and figs grow rank and luscious everywhere, and occasionally a breadfruit-tree is seen. Honolulu is a city of elegant comfort, bustling enterprise and generous hospitality. Native rulers have bequeathed to the city some noble monuments; MAUSOLEUM OF LUNALILO, THE LAST KING OF KAMEHAMEHE Hawaii shares with Samoa the poetic title of "the Paradise of the Pacific." The climate is almost perfect. The only slighting allusion to it that a foreigner ever makes concerns merely its sameness, as to which suffice it to say the range of the thermometer is between sixty and eighty degrees, and the native has no word in his language for what we mean by weather. Potatoes may be ripened every month in the year. Below the latitude of five thousand feet frost is unknown, and so are snow-capped peaks at heights of two or three times that. Unlike the Philippines, it is a climate entirely congenial to white labor, thanks to the trade-winds and moderating ocean currents, while the contrast with Cuba, in the same latitude, is greater still as regards salubrity. WAIKIKI BEACH, FOUR MILES FROM HONOLULU, DIAMOND HEAD IN THE DISTANCE Hundreds of summer villas and a fine hotel are built on and near this beach, where also Robert Louis Stevenson once had his cottage HONOLULU AND SUBURBS 197 GROUP OF HAWAIIAN FLOWER-VENDERS IN HONOLULU of their public spirit and care for the people, in such buildings as the Queen's lospital, the Lunalilo Home for Aged Iawaaiians, the lolani, or National Palace, and the College of Oahu. The first mentioned stands at the foot of the extinct volcano known as the "Puncll Bowl," just behind the city, and was built with funds raised in a personal canvass of Honolulu by Kamelhamieha IV. and his consort, Queen Emma. The latter, whose memory is cherished by all classes, was the daughter of an Englishman named Rooke married to a native chieftainess. The College of Oahl, which has more than three hundred acres of land, all under fine cultivation, carries alumni of Amherst, Williamns, Cornell, Smith and other American institutions among its faculty. The Royal Palace, now the Executive Buildiing, a handsome and imposing structure on a comllianding elevation some distance from the bay, is surrounded with beautiful grounds, carefully trimmed trees and artistically arranged shrubbery. Our illustrations also include the Legisla- tive Building. Among other public institutions the Bishop \Museum and a Archawological Institute is admirably complete and full of objects of interest, while the Masonic Temple would be a credit to any city in the world. The public-sclhool system of Hawaii is patterned after the American, and education is compulsory, and the only people who cannot read and write are found among those who come from abroad, chiefly among the Portuguese and Asiatics. In Honolulu Princess Ruth's Palace, a very large and beautiful mansion, is now utilized as the IHonolulu high school, and all the other school-buildings are commodious and handsome. The splendid Kamehameha trainingschools, founded and endowed by a great-granddaughter of Kameamemea the Great, are doing a good work in fitting Hawaiian youths for the trades. The city is well supplied with churches, some of them of large and ornate architecture, surrounded with horticultural effects most beautiful. Throughout the rural districts congregations are almost invariably served HAWAIIAN GIRLS IN HOLIDAY ATTIRE 198 HA WAIIAN AMERICA:0000 7? i 77 5 of A-? 0....:. NUUANU AVENUE, HONOLULU, LOOKING TOWARD THE VALLEY steamer and its location, so that all one needs to do is to go to the nearest telephone, put the receiver to his ear, and in that way learn what steamer it <::; X j is, and exactly how near. In case the ~.<^ steamer brings any important news "Central" gives it to everybody who calls up a connection, by which means the destruction of the Maine was known all over the island within ten minutes after the steamer Zealandia reached the wharf. In an American metropolis you make inquiries of a policeman. In Ionolulu you ask "Central." Nevertheless the published statement that no person takes the trouble there to consult the clock in the next room, but instead calls up entral" to learn the time of day, must beaccepted as Mark-Twainish piece of humor. Still, it is a fact at the leading meat-markets have a list of their,ular customers on file at "Central," and about six lock every evening. "Central" calls them up, one:er another, and takes their order for the next )rning's breakfast. Besides the large number of sailing-vessels plying it, six Pacific lines of steamships make Honolulu chedule port. The steamer usually stops no more an three or four hours, thus limiting the sight-seer a drive to the Punch Bowl, the ancient volcano fore mentioned. Should the stay be sufficiently by Hawaiian ministers, except as to the Catholic churches, whose cures are commonly French or German. It has been said that Catholics and Protestants dwell together in greater harmony in Honolulu than anywhere else in the world. The Kawaiahau native church is a venerated landmark of the city, dating from early in the missionary period. It is built of blocks of coral limestone. Taking the whole population of Hawaii there is a telephone for every fifty-two inhabitants, and on Oahu for every forty-one. The Honolulu telephone system runs everywhere, even far into the suburbs, most of the private houses, as well as the stores, having communication with the central station at very low rentals. The arri-;:\ B?, val of a steamship is an event of interest to everybody, just as the coming in w S of the stage-coach, bringing the daily or weekly mail, once was in this country. From the government station on the high point of Diamond Head approaching vessels can be sighted at a distance of twenty to forty miles, and "Central" being notified it proceeds at once to notify the proper officials, the postmaster, the newspapers-English, Hawaiian, Portuguese and Japanese — with a few other special interests, and then the electric-light company, which in turn notifies the whole city by giving two whistles if the steamer is from America, or three if from any other part of the world. For two minutes thereafter no telephone connections are made, but the force at "Central" keep on reiterating the name of the QUEEN'S HOSPITAL LANE, HONOLULU A VANISHING RACE 199 prolonged this is apt to be followed by a drive up Nuuanu valley to the frowning summit of Pali, down whose sheer sides American engineering skill has lately scored another triumph in building a superb roadway; or by a trip four miles up the coast to W\aikiki beach, the Hawaiian Long Branch and Saratoga combined, which is built upl with spacious leaf-emblowered villas, the summer residences of Iton olulu families of wealth, and where Queen Liliuokalani but lately held forth. Waikiki's canoeing and wave-sliding are famous. The latter is a mild form of the old national sport of surf-riding, and it is highly popular with even the whites who are not afraid to trust themselves to Kanaka skill to see them safely through a mad dash of half a mile in a minute, balanced upon the crest of a white-capped breaker. LEPER SETTLEMENT ON MOLOKAI ISLAND, CHURCH IN FOREGROUND The high and almost precipitous mountain, together with the sea, practically cuts off all communication with the outside world A VANISHING RACE T IIE Ilawaiians, described as a blranch of the Malayo-Polynesian race having much in common with the Samoans and New-Zealanders, are reddish-brown in color, well formed, lithe and active. They are a gentle, affectionate and pliant l)eople, sleaking a soft anld mellifluous language, in which vowels and liquids almost smother harsher sounds. Light-lhearted and pleasure-loving, they shrink from the sustaine( toil that Anglo-Saxons or Chinamen endure as a matter of course, though they make good clerks and subordinate helpers in all the business of the town. In canoeing upon the sea, which almost seems their native element, their skill is wonderful. They have many games and sports, are extremely fond of music, and spend much time in making flowery garlands, which a beautiful custom bestows in profusion on a parting guest or friend. Both sexes are passionately fond of riding, almost every person being in possession of a horse, and the women riding astride, wearing a divided skirt of exceeding amplitude and bright colors, which, when the horse is moving rapidly, streams out behind like a majestic pennant and almost conceals the form of the wearer. It is a pretty costume, and some American women have adopted it to the discarding of their own conventional ridingskirts. Miss Kate Field was enthusiastic in its praise. 200 HA WAIIAN AMERICA world beyond the mountain which, with the sea. shuts the leIper settlement in, as if already under the ground. Tlhougl a most vigilant Board of Health is slowly lessening the number of victimns, no less than eleven hundred lepers are dying by inchles on Molokai. The government makes full p)rovision for their needs, supp)lying not only physicians and nurses, but churches, schools and reading-roonms, so that the round of life still goes on with a certain degree of regularity. Here a few years since Father Damien went calmly and grandly to his fate at the call of a Christlilke pity, and other ministers, Plrotestant and Catholic, have followed his example. A San Francisco case of leprosy was lately sent to Moloklai. The European style of dress was long since adopted aby the better off and more refined natives, but among the masses the men wear sim)lly the shirt and trousers substituted by their fathers for the loin-cloth of heathen days. The women are clad uoniversally in the loose and flowing holaku, or Mother-IHubbard, as most writers call it, a garment which suits the climate admirably. On the head a straw hat is worn, or perhaps a colored handkerchief is twisted. In the interior and out-of-thle-way places the old MISS CLEGHORN (PRINCESS KAIULANI), WHO DIED MARC 6, 1899 Epidemics and the penalty a Supreme Power exacts for violation of His physical and moral laws have been for generations bearing the Hawaiian race toward extinction, till now, instead of numbering two hundred thousand, as Captain Cook estimated they did in 1778, they count up, including halfbloods, scarcely forty thousand, or about one third the total population. To the Hawaiian-born whites has fallen the duty of a kindly care for the vanishing race, and no doubt improved housing and sanitation and more regular living will prolong its days, perhaps:.... indefinitely. But the deaths still exceed the birthsin mamny districts, especially on the island of hIawaii, as much as three to one. Old superstitions, too, such as the efficacy of certain charms, linger among the older pcople, and oppose a barrier to the physician's skill in case of sickness. On these sun-kissed islands the dark shadow of leprosy rests more deeply than anywhere else on earth. No nationality is exempt from the disease, since it is communicable by inoculation-a cut on the skin anywhere-but rarely does it invade other than native families. Its charnel-house since 1865 has been a certain district on the island of Molokai, where the infested living have been congregated to wait for death-as truly dead to the great HAWAIIAN RIDING-COSTUITME FOR WOMEN A VANISHING RACE 201 traditional grass houses are still to be found, but they are steadily giving place to one-story frame dwellings. No matter how poor, the hut is provided with artificial light, obtained by stringing together the very oily kernels of the candlenut and firing them with a live coal. The native style of cooking is in a hole in the g'round for oven. A fire is kindled and stones heated; center of the table, or, more literally, of a mat spread on the ground. The family and friends sitting round the mat, the poi is perhaps dished out in a separate small calabash for each one, though in the most of native households the hereditary custom still prevails, and all help themselves from the one mammoth bowl in the center. In no case are spoons employed. The tlhen the fire is removed, and the food, wrapped in leaves, is placed in the hole alongside the hot stones and covered up till ready. Pork is the principal anim al food. Fisll, caught in ab)undance (the flying-fishl with the naked hands, wlell the surf is rolling in), are commonly eate]n raw. The staple food of the masses is obtained from the tough and fleshy bulb of the taro-plant, which flourishes in marshlland, either natural or nmade such by banking around a patclh of ground with sod to keel) the water at a certain depth. It has Jieen estimated that a taro-patch forty feet each way yields amply enough food for a native one year, and a field a mile square for over fifteen thousand. There is also an upland variety, less l)rolific. From the taroroot is preparQd the national dish, the famous poi, by first washing and scral)ing the bulbs clean, tllen cooking them until soft, after which they are I1ounded into flour, that is finally mixed with sufficient water to make a 0: 0:: f i I0~:~ i:!ii:ii! THEi TARO-PLANT, FROM WHICH iS PRODUCED THE HAWAIIAN S8TAFF' OF' LIFE," TH-E FAMOUS POI sticky paste. The hospitality of the natives very soon obliges a new-comer to become familiar with the mannelr of eating poi, which is the same whether in the family circle or at the larger gatherings, the luaus (feasts), which to the Hawaiian are the delight of delights. A calabaslh-an immense round bowl, as large sometimes as a bushel basket-is placed on the first two fingers of the right hand are dipped in the sticky mess, given a deft sweep, then conveyed, with sundry and highly scientific gyrations, to the mouth, where the adhering poi is sucked off. Sometimes it is "one-finger" poi, very thick; again it may be "threefinger" poi, very thin. A luan in the traditional style is uncontrollably disgusting to an American, 202. HA WAIIAN AMERICA THE QUEEN'S BEACH, WAIKIKI The style of canoe with outrigger here shown has been in use among the natives from time immemorial especially when the poi is eaten sour (in a refinement of gastronomy analogous to the "high," or tainted, meat of the English gentry), or when the accompanying fish are eaten raw. However, poi is a healthful and most nutritious diet, and to it must chiefly be ascribed the adipose tendency so common among the natives, and it is the accepted test of good cooking. m "r,:A 11. 1w; a " -41;a P The average IKanaka lives a care-free life. If his taro-patch has not gone into the keeping of some Chinaman, an hour's labor each day will keep it free from weeds and in a thriving condition. Ile can vary his diet with fish or clams from the sea, or can stroll into the forests back of his hut and pick bananas, breadfruit or rich papaya to his heart's content. Often time hangs lheavily on his hands, so he jogs slowly to town on his horse and spends the day lounging about the boat-landing, or else lying flat on his back under some tropical shade-tree he passes the day in dreamy reveries. Or perhaps he bestrides his horse, rides into the forest, and returns festooned with countless brilliant flowers and strings of colored seeds. IHe need have no fear for the morrow, for the morrow will be the same as to-day. "Mahapi" is a word he uses fifty times a day; it means "by and by," and in practical application it corresponds to the Spaniard's "manana" A NATIVE HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE A VANISHING RACE 203 -to-morrow. His ideal of life is the maximum of comfort each day as it comes, without looking to the future. No provision for winter is necessary, no laying in of coal or saving to buy an overcoat; winter never invades his balmy, luxurious southland. He very contentedly basks in the warmth of Natu-re's smiles, and gives a smile in. return. Tile events of chief impor- tance in his life are when he is invited I to attend a luaul Iy some neighbor, or | j when he invites in return. These native feasts are times of unrestrained hospitality and social fun, when every:_ one jabbers, slings poi and shakes his ~ fat sides, and the utmost good-will and enjoyment prevail. lThey are usually partnership affairs, one family furnishing poi, another pork, still another fish, and so on. The customary program in former days was to have them followed by hula-dances, but this has very generally been abandoned, and, in fact, nude dancing is under the ban of the law. There are no family names among the natives, and a child's name may have no relation to that of the father. Of course, the case is different in a family having a European or an American father, of which VIEW OF THE CENTRAL PART OF HONOLULU type are not a few of the most refined and cultured households in Hawaii, with half-blood daughters of fine education and womanly excellence, and withal of typical loveliness. Such a young woman was the Princess Kaiulani, niece of Queen Liliuokalani and heir presumptive to the throne, the daughter of Governor A. S. Cleghorn, an Englishman, and a princess of the Kalakaua dynasty. Miss Cleghorn was carefully educated in England and Germany, traveled extensively in both hemispheres, and returning to her native land in November, 1897', lived quietly in her Waikiki mansion (which had come as a baptismal gift from the Princess Ruth) until her unexpected death, the sixth of..... _,,,,:.- March, 1899. The ga-|S^^^^^~i~.ii~;'~;:~,~ funeral procession was an extraordinary outpouring of people, representing all classes from Governor Dole and the Supreme Court in carriages of state to many thousands of Kanakas on foot, with no end of banners and insignias, memorials of more than a century of Hawaiian history. She was genuinely mourned. She had more than once entertained our otfiASH IN THE CENTER cers handsomely. A LUAU, OR NATIVE FEAST, WITH LARGE CALABI 204 HA WAIIAN AMERICA LAVA FLOW FROM MAUNA LOA MOVING TOWARD THE SEA The mist-like appearance is steam. Billions of tons of molten lava are poured forth during a single eruption of Mauna Loa VOLCANOES: INDUSTRIAL HAWAII F VOLCANIC origin, like most of the Pacific islands, the Hawaiian group is entirely composed of the products of eruption. On the island of Maui the extinct volcano of Haleakala has a crater:ili:i::::: ui two thousand feet deep and twenty miles in circumference, the largest on earth. The only volcanoes still active are on the island of Hawaii, where are launa Kea, the highest peak (13,805 feet) in the Pacific ocean; Kilauea, with a crater outclassing that of any other active volcano known, being nine miles in circumference with vertical sides a thousand feet deep; and Mauna Loa, which celebrated the Fourth of July, 1899, with a magnificent pyrotechnic display at three o'clock in the morning, signaling two flows of molten, ^^^^ A< roaring, steaming lava, which continued pouring forth for a number of days, traveling at the rate of thirty miles an hour until cooled off by contact with the air. Throughout the island lava formations in all kinds of peculiar shapes abound. Near the base of Mauna HARDENED LAVA FLOW AT THE BASE OF MAUNA LOA VOLCANOES: INDUSTRIAL HA WAI 205 Loa, where the hardened flow is estimated to be nearly or quite a hundred feet thick, it lies in great corrugated, twisted masses reseml)ling innumerable huge iumlltnified serpents, and in sonme places large fissures have opened in the lava, nJld are bridged for the convenience of tourists. Thlere are instances of a so-called waterfall being formed by the lava runniing over a precipice, where it still hangs in great columns and pendants. A perfect arch thirty feet high exists at one place, while at another an immense vase was left standing when the rest of the formation The picture r, gave way to some elemental force, and Nature has since contributed to the effect by stocking the vase bountifully with trees, flowers and ferns. "Blow-holes," caused by escaping steam from beneath, are numerous, taking the shape of more or less regular cones. One such formation exhibits an almost smooth circular hole twenty-five feet across and about eighteen hundred feet deep. The stlupendols and awe-inspiring grandeur of an outbreak of Kilauea or Mauna Loa is indescribable. No one fortunate enough to have witnessed the phenomena can wonder at the native superstitions centering around these craters. Pele, the goddess of fire, dwells in the depths of Kilauea, whence issuing in BLOW-HOLE IN A LAVA FLOW epresents the flow, blow-hole and all, after it has hardened anger at some slight accorded her, she sends abroad her seething messengers of death. In the olden times human sacrifices were freely offered to propitiate her. Delivered to the priests of Pele by order of the chief, a gang of trembling wretches would be bound and hurled over the crater's brink. Less dreadful was the faith that it meant certain death to approach the crater without first throwing into it a handful of the berries growing near the top, or, again, for any one excepting a priestess of Pele to eat of these berries. Despite the race's long-past acceptance of Christianity, some of the ruder natives are believed to still offer secret prayer to the flame-encircled throne of Pele. A peculiar plant belonging to --- the fern family, having very long, delicate filaments of a reddish color,! s found on the mountain-sides, and is universally known as "Pele's hair.' As near the crater of Kilauea as safety permits is the Volcano House, a hotel familiarly known to all Hawaiian tourists, reached by a winding path up the mountain-side from the port of Hilo, whither the inter-island steamer brings one from Honolulu in a few hours. Froum the Volcano House the visitor, conducted by a guide, makes his way on foot to peer into the boiling and steam-mistedabysmal interior, where numerous fire-licked cones heave and surge amidst the molten mass, each a true crater. Kilauea's BRIDGE OVER CHASM IN LAVA 206 HA WA IIAN AMERICA SO-CALLED CASCADE OF HARDENED LAVA, NEAR THE FOOT OF I to insure a crop. During the years......: from 1846 to 1855 the ancient tenure of land at the sole pleasure of the king was abolished, the principle of individual ownership established, and thousands of homesteads given the people. But for the sovereign were still reserved a million acres, including the best of the land, and hence the great fortunes precedent to the royal munificence that crop out continually in the story of Honolulu. The republic settled a liberal annuity upon the dethroned Liliuokalani, but of course took possession of the unallotted public lands. IAUNA LOA While it has aided to develop the sugar industry, the immense size of private holdings of land (by purchase or long lease) found in Hawaii cannot be regarded as permanently desirable. The Bishop estate includes nearly six hundred thousand acres, or about three twentieths of the total area of the group, and is scattered over several different islands. The entire island of Niihau is owned by one family, which has stocked it with twenty-five thousand sheep, and naturally feels a great interest in the wool tariff of the United States. On Kauai island all the land is either owned outright or held on long lease by six proprietors. The Spreckels leases aggregate an enormous tract, but statistics are lacking. The previous policy of the government was emphasized under the republic; namely, to encourage the settlement of the public lands by flames have been seen a hundred miles out on the Pacific, while at Hilo, almost forty miles away, people.at night have easily read newspapers by their glow. In 1840 a lava torrent a mile wide, from twenty to one hundred feet deep, and forty miles long, reached the coast and buried itself in the sea. Notwithstanding the complete ruin attending the stately march of a lava flow, it is volcanic material, decomposed in course of ages, that forms some of the richest soil of Hawaii, the palm as regards fertility belonging to the valleys, enriched from the washings of the mountain-sides and long accumulations of vegetable-mold deposits. The quality of the upland soils varies considerably, and in some places on the leeward side of the mountains irrigation is needed TYPICAL SUGAR-MILL ON THE ISLAND OF OAHU, WHICH IS COMPLETELY AMERICANIZED VOLCANOES: INDUSTRIAL HAWAII 207 small farmers, and the homestead laws were carefully framed to that end. At present the Hawaiian population, leaving out the trades-people, may be roughly classified as great landholders, poor though rarely pauperized natives, and contract laborers. The contract laborers, a very bone of contention for years in settling the status of Hawaii, consist, with unimportant exceptions, of Portuguese (mainly from the Madeira islands), Japanese and Chinese. The leaps which the sugar business took after 1876 drove the planters into a state of clamorous perplexity how to obtain the labor their estates required, the aloriginal Hawaiian having a fixed aversion to field-work if enforced and steady. A Bureau of Immigration was organized, and nine thousand Portuguese brought in at an outlay of two hundred to four hundred dollars each. Though a considerable part of the money was refunded, this was expensive, and so was the experiment of "assisting" German, Norwegian and certain Polynesian labor; hence the impertation, beginning in 1886, of Japanese workmnen at a cost of eighty-seven dollars a head, while John Chinaman, many thousands of himi, came out from the Flowery Kingdom unassisted. The Portuguese, Japanese and Chinese in lawaii now number 16,000, 30,()00 and 24,000 respectively, as against 39,000 of the native race, 4,000 Americans and 2,300 British. Somle of the contract laborers are serving their second term, while others, instead of returning to the home land,as mlany did lwhen their contract exl)ired, changed to day-lal)orers for w-ages, or set about cultivating crops of their own in a very small way. LAND Thus the Chinavlan has practically I was here th ablsorb)ed the business of rice-growing, and is fast getting hold of the taro-l)atches, and what to do about himn or his fellows of other nationalities is a knotty problem. The employment of free white labor, to replace "assisted" Asiatics, is looked forward to by many politicians and philanthropists as the solution; but the imperative behest of law will have to pave the way, for by that change will come a reduction of sugar profits from their present thirty, forty or fifty per cent to possibly twenty or thirty per cent, and to expect capital to volunteer such a sacrifice would be unreasonable while human nature remains what it is.,Congress should take prompt and decisive action. For Hawaii the sugar era followed the whaling era, which practically came to an end in 1873. Sugarraising has been the commercial backbone of the islands during more than twenty years of their greatest prosperity. Nowhere else in the world have capital, business enterprise and scientific and mechanical skill been more closely wedded. Running a sugar plantation is not only an immense business, but a very diversified one, having to provide and operate railroads, with grades and engines and flumes, and trestles perhaps a hundred feet high and thousands of feet long, to convey the cane to the mill, which latter represents a cost of from $100,000 to $500,000, and ING-PLACE ON THE PRECIPITOUS COAST OF HAWAII ISLAND at Miss Stevens, daughter of the United States minister, lost her life has a capacity ranging from fifteen to sixty tons a day. On the coasts are landing-places built merely for plantation use that have each cost $25,000 and upward, besides the expense of fitting up with costly machinery for the loading process. All industrial thought at present is for sugar, rice and coffee, the wonderful capabilities of the island for vegetables and fruits being strangely neglected, insomuch that Hawaii expends annually a million of dollars for food products for man and beast, including nearly twenty thousand dollars for California-grown fruits. The coffee craze bids fair to be the next one, sugar and rice having appropriated about all the land 208 HA WAIIAN AMERICA an open roadstead, often quite rough, and passengers and freight are rowed ashore by natives, all of whom are the mnost expert of watermen and (lelight to be upon the sea, even to the extent of deep-sea fishing out of sight of land. Occasionally a landing is lpositively dangerous. At two points on the island of Hawaii passengers are hoisted from the rowboat with a huge crane, to which a chlair is attaelhed (or sometimnes a stout sling adapted to the 0 -:~:Ilhumian form) and swung two hundred feet in the air to the top of a cliff, which there forms the water-front....... ON~~ ~ Departing travelers are lowered by the RICE-FIELDS ON THE ISLAND OF MAUI same contrivance to the boat, and suitable for them, whereas considerable amounts of rowed. out to the ship. At one of these landing-places coffee-land-in every tropical country more elevated a daughter of United States Minister Stevens gave and less sought up her young life after at the first to filial devotion. -still remain at H earing that her government dis- father was lying posal; and to cof- ill in Honolulu, fee-planting the she insisted upon powers that be in being lowered il Honolulu are es- the face of all repecially partial, mnonstrances, the since it is open sea being at the to men of mod- time unusually crate means, and - rough. Scarcely time attraction of had she taken a settlers, not the seat in the rowproduction of a boat waiting for handful of great TRAIN ON PLANTATION RAILROAD LOADING UP WITH SUGAR-CANE her below when millionaires, is what the government seeks. On his it was struck by a wave and capsized, and she was vast Ewa sugar plantation on OahW a wealthy land- hurled upon the rocks with a violence proving fatal. owner namned Castle is conducting an interesting co-operative experiment, 1 one deserving success, though possibly existing conditions may deny it. The Southern Pacific railway monopoly of California has a counterpart in Hawaii, where inter-island traffic is in the hands of a single company, and freights are so excessive as to seriously handicap industrial development outside of Oahu. Aside from this, however, the getting about from one island to another is, in places, less easy than could be desired. There are no docks except at Honolulu, and commonly no harbors. Landings are made with the steamer lying out in PLANTATION RAILROAD RUNNING THROUGH A SUGAR-CANE FIELD CUBA IN TRANSITION 'I F OLLOWING up the discovery which was to, ilnmortalize his lname, Columnbus sailed -.. westward, and on October 28, 1492, entered the lmouth of a river in the "great / 1: land" of which he had heard many times before reaching it. This land, indescribably beautiful and prolific, the natives called Cuba, a name that has survived three others successively given it by the Spaniards, and which, as every one knows, designates the most important island by far of the West Indies. A climate so delightful as to seem a perpetual summer, a soil inexhaustibly rich, rank tropical luxuriance of growth in field and forest, varied loveliness in natural scenery, a fine list of good liarbors-these combine to make Cuba one of Nature's most favoredregions; while its commanding position at the entrance of the Gulf of Mexico, and which will become still more prominent as soon as the Nicaragua or Panama canal is comI)leted, might well stimtulate the acquisitive anmbition of nations. Fr(;om Key West, in Florida, to 1Havana is only ninety-four y miles, the schedule time by steamler being seven hours, tlouglh most ocean liners would take but half that. Cuba is about seven hundred and sixty miles long, while in breadth it varies MAJOR-GENERAL from twenty-six to say one Mt A Military Governor of Cuba, hundred and twenty-seven miles; and its area, including the Isle of Pines and numerous smaller islands, approximates forty-four thousand square miles, which is a little less than the size of New York state. The mountain range, in general rather low, traversing the island lengthwise is 14 2 highest in the eastern part, where also it is broken up into spurs, or transverse ridges, and occasionally rises to an altitude of five to seven thousand feet. With not much more than one third of the land yet brought under cultivation, two fifths of the island is covered with primeval forests, Nwhich, however, present scarcely greater difficulties to the traveler than do the bushy jungles of the plains lwherever left uncultivated for more than a single season. The tropical climate of the low coast-lands, including, of course, the seaports, is the climate chiefly written and talked about, but the fact is the elevated interior regions very nuch resemlle the warmer portions of the temperatezone. Havana is a sanatorium of world-wide celebrity for bronchial and lung affections, owing to its equable temperature, the extreme range of the thermometer during the year being only thirty degrees-froml fifty-;(: 0 f ~; _ eight to eighty-eight —and the mean annual temperature standing at seventyeight degrees. Fireplaces are among the rarest in H avana or other seaport towns; glazed windows are unknown, doulible sets of shutters or cuirtains taking their place; and fresh vegetables and fruits abound all winter, for here is a land where one may plant and harvest every day of the year. Yellow fever, which is essentially a disease of the sea-coast and rOHN M. BROOKE beginning January 1, 1899 )JgHNning January 1, 1899 the lower latitudes, never becomes epidemic in the elevated interior. It stayed away from HIavana, so it is said, for one hundred and seven years, until 1761, since which it has always dwelt there, summer and wrinter. Santiago, till after the Americans came, was a veritable pest-hole, its sanitation being still worse. J,b 09 y 210 CUBA IN TRANSITION Cuba is divided into six provinces, named (from east to west) Santiago de Cuba, Puerto Principe, Santa Clara, Matanzas, Havana and Pinar del Rio. The last Spanish census, taken in 1887, gave a total population of 1,631,619, of which sixty-eight per cent were white and thirty-two per cent colored. Race prejudices are exceedingly strong, and in this fact resides what will be a serious difficulty when the Cubans undertake self-government. Negro slavery was not abolished until 1886, but as the insurgent armies contained more negroes than whites, and thus far manhood suffrage is the only one proposed, the colored element must be taken account of in any political forecast. On August 17, 1899, President McKinley proclaimed to the people of Cuba that he had ordered a census taken throughout the island, and had "appointed competent and disinterested citizens of Cuba as enumerators and supervisors." This was a step of considerable importance in paving the way for intelligent action on many governmental details. OLD GLORY ON MORO CASTLE, FROM ACROSS THE HARBOR ENTRANCE, AT 12:10 P. M., JANUARY 1, 1899 At exactly twelve o'clock, noon, the Spanish red and yellow flag was hauled down and the Stars and Stripes went up in its place CUBA UNDER SPAIN FORTY years of cruel and rigorous servitude sufficed to blot the three hundred thousand gentle, indolent aborigines of Cuba off the face of the earth. For a long time the island continued very sparsely settled, its wondrous agricultural capabilities surprisingly unnoticed, though lavana, founded in the year 1519, became a port of ever and greatly increased consequence. It was twice captured in the sixteenth century by the French, and once in the seventeenth by the Dutch. In 1762 the English took it, after a memorable siege that cost an appalling death-rate from disease, exposure and lack of water, and the spoil was enormous, the prize-money divided among the soldiers and sailors amounting to four millions of dollars; but in the peace arrangements of 1763 Cuba was handed back to Spain. In 1848 President Polk tendered one nillion dollars for it, but the offer was indignantly refused. In 1889 Sagasta, the Spanish premier, rebuffed negotiations along the same line by declaring to the United States minister there was not gold enough in the world to buy Cuba. In consequence of heavy taxes without representative rights in the Spanish Cortes, conjoined with a systematic course of plundering by the officials, and CUBA UNDER SPAIN 211 a sllameful neglect of the educational and material interests of the island, discontent had long been generating in Cuba, and Ki Lg by degrees it hardened into hatred and defiance. The years 1868 to 1818. witnessed the "ten. years' war," an insurrection involving the eastern third of the island, and costing Spain sixty millions of dollars and about a hundred thousand men, and which was terminated by the convention of El Zanjon. This treaty guaranteed essential reforms, most of which failed to materialize further than some changes of names and of local boundaries. Native Cubans were still excluded from every office that could give them effective influence in public affairs, while the guiding star of the whole fiscal system continued to be the enrichment of the mother-country and a swarm of hungry officials, with almost no regard to the effect upon the colony itself. The work of the Cuban junta in launching another and finally successful revolution is frequently sneered at now, and no doubt the junta was not composed of an altogether immaculate set of patriots. Nevertheless they did a work that needed to be done, a work that only they or men positioned like thenm could do. Of their earnestness they gave full proof. Marti, the organizer of the last rel)ellion, risked his life in the.;. cause, though not a soldier, and i lost it, and his grave at San-: - f: tiago deserves to be a place of pilgrimage, as it is. It was on February 24, 1895, that revolt THE FRUIT-MARKET, HAVANA its flag in eastern Cuba. Maximo Gomez, a of San Domingo, who was a head officer in the ears' war," and the mulatto general, Antonio (with C(alixto Garcia somewhat later), became ntral figures in the field, and before winter set y dominated half of Cuba, though none of the owns or seaports. Campos, the Spanish GovGeneral, returned to Spain in January, 1896, mpaign an admitted failure, and in February?cessor, the cruel Weyler, arrived. Less blood lore fire gives the campaign of 1896 in an m. It was a terrible resort which the insurgents d, that of burning the sugar-mills and stamthe tobacco cultivators, thus stopping production, to the end of breaking.........d.. down the opposition to independence by proving it to be -i.0-..: the only alternative to an-:: I Si;:.:-.:: archy and ruin; and relenti lesslv was the policy carried out in all parts of the island, with the important effect of greatly weakening the Span^j,.'- 1:.:' ish forces by hundreds of.i::!:: -ii:. 0 details for plantation garri-; *l sons. On December 7, 1896, Maceo was killed. Reconcentration was the key-note of Weyler's 1897 campaign, his trochas, like his much-heralded spurts of fighting, having turned out virtual failures. This measure amounted to a deliberate, cold-blooded sentencing of hundreds of thousands of the helpless country people, SUGAR-MILL OF SMALL PROPRIETOR IN HAVANA PROVINCE 212 CUBA IN TRANSITION HORSES LADEN FOR MARKET, IN THE VICINITY: OF HAVA HORSEs LADEN FOR MARKET, IN THE VICINITY OF HAVAI actually did starve. But enough of these harrowing illustrative facts. The Spanish conduct of affairs was. no less incapable in the cabinet than harsh in the field, while corruption prevailed, by a sort of endless-chain process, in both. The whole public business was keyed to the idea of plunder. When through favoritism or direct bribery a man had somehow e <;II slipped into a government position, he was sure to be robbed by some one above him or associated with him, 1 whereupon he recouped himself, and as much more than that as he could, by robbing somebody else; and so the game went on until the burden had: been finally shifted to the one least able to bear it-the poor man, whose NA wages were a pittance at best. When the Americans took charge of things in Havana seven thousand taxable hydrants were delivering the city's water without any one paying for it, the thirty-nine alcaldes in the thirty-nine barrios, or wards, having the power to give free water to persons for a consideration, which they had undoubtedly been sharing with higher officials. At the custom-house one head of old and young, and chiefly women and children, to starvation and death. Few Americans understand the awful reality and extent of the inhuman policy of reconcentration. Weyler sent to every town a garrison whose orders were to force the surrounding rural pol)iulation into the town and keep them there, and to effect this the soldiers burned the houses, gathered in and consumed all the cattle and other live stock, and destroyed the bananas in the fields, thus leaving the people absolutely without anything to eat or the possi'bility of procuring it by purchase or cultivation. In some places where the people managed to plant and raise a crolp the Spanishl soldiers would not permit them to gather it, but seized on everything for themselves, and stole all the work-oxen, cows and chickens besides. General George W. I)avis, the first military governor of Pinar del Rio (later comnmanding in Porto Rico), believes that out of a total population in that province of 290,000 fully 15,00()0 died during the war, the majority of them reconcentrados. Two thousand reconcentrados are known to have died in one small town alone. For miles at a stretch when the Americans came no sign of life appeared except some buzzards. General James IT. Wilson, another American military governor, found the case much the same in the province of Matanzas, which in 1894 contained, according to the tax-list, 298,391 cattle and 102,000 horses, but in January, 1899, had only 8,800"cattle. and 3,700 horses; while the population, during the same interval, had dwindled from 272,000 to 191,000, so that practically one third had perished. In a mere village called Mocha, eleven miles from the city of Matanzas, Weyler concentrated forty-five hundred people to starve, and over three thousand of them THE CELEBRATED AVENUE OF ROYAL PALMS, HAVANA CUBA UNDER SPAIN 213 a division would be receiving two thousand dollars a year, and in the next room another head of a division equally important would be getting six hundred dollars, yet both thrived equally well. The appraisers worked for very small salaries, but they lived in style off their "gratifications" from merchants whose goods a slip of the pen or some inadvertence in filling out the blanks would somehow pass at an undervaluation. Sometimes the same employee appeared on the payroll under a new name every month, not without some reason one may be sure. Letter-carriers received their pay not in the form of a salary, but by charging from three to five cents, or even more, for every letter they delivered. The removal of stamps from collected letters and selling them was a frequent practice. Newspapers would be stolen from bundles and sold for anything they would bring. Sal- aries were fixed with very little reference to the amount of service required, and the looseness in post- office business at every point was almost incredible. Other depart/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\ 1/ 1 I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ A majority of the streets even in Havana and Santiago were in a frightful state of repair, and filthy beyond conception. The foulness of the few sewers and the intolerable stenches predominating in public buildings, as well as in the private dwellings, distressed and actually sickened the Americans before they could be corrected as the first step in Cuba's sanitary regeneration. Odors from a sewer under the custom-house that was in direct communication with the office of the Collector of the Port more than once drove the new and terribly toiling officials from their / GENERAL CALIXTO GARCIA Died December 10, 1898 desks. Throughout the island each province had a prison, and in them men and women were sometimes confined for ten years without trial, forgotten by every human being, except perhaps the members of their own humble households. No system GENERAL MAXIMO GOMEZ Commander-in-chief of the Cuban army ~ m, g0 _ ments of the lpulli service were managed ~7/,in a like hapCAPTAIN-GENERAL VALERIANO WEYLER Py-go-lucky style. Governnllent positions passed, in Yankee phrase, for soft snaps. "U'nder the old official system men went to their offices at nine o'clock in the morning, left at eleven, and came back for an hour in the afternoon. Tlhere were a great many clerks, many of whom were wholly unnecessary. In each little town one found a great many officials doing very little, but no schoolhouses, no sanitary regulations; in fact, nothing indicative of a high degree of civilization. It was a pedantic humbug from top to bottom." [General Leonard Wood in The Independent.] of public schools was in operation, nor of road-making, nor of any other internal improvements, but the people were demoralized with government lotteries, with bull-fights under the most aristocratic patronage, and with unblushing examples of dishonesty. Not only was the custom-house a place of moral dry-rot for all connected with it, but the Spanish tariff would almost seem to have been framed in direct hostility to the United States, despite this country being the customer which took the bulk of the Cuban products. Probably, however, its key-note was less the dislike of other nations than a disposition to "hog everything in sight." The American expert who drew up the new tariff of 1899 declared the former tariff "was made by Spaniards for Spain, in the interests of the Spanish." On any other theory he considered it inexplicable, absolutely so. 214 CUBA IN TRANSITION CAPTAIN-GENERAL CASTELLANOS LEAVING HAVANA, ESCORTED BY GENERALS WADE AND CLOUS OLD GLORY'S TRIUMPHAL MARCH D EVELOPMENTS in Cuba naturally attracted much attention in the United States, where the deepest sympathy with the unfortunate reconcentrados prevailed, as was evidenced by relief measures undertaken in the winter of 1897-98, by the American section of the Red Cross Association under the active management of its president, Clara Barton; by an independent movement headed by the proprietor of an Eastern religious weekly; and by a Central Cuban Relief Committee, with headquarters in New York City, to which the national government lent its full sanction and influence. By the early part of April contributions, representing every section of the great republic, and aggregating nearly a quarter of a million dollars, had been forwarded for relief purposes to Cuba. Meantime American sentiment was crystallizing into a demand that the cruel and barbarous struggle in Cuba must be brought to an end-if necessary, by forcible intervention. Public opinion, which had been further incensed by the I)e Lome letter deriding President McKinley, could no longer be controlled after the Maine horror, which occurred on the night of February 15, 1898. Both governments redoubled their preparations for war. The Spanish-American war began on April 21st, and it lasted until August 12th, when the peace protocol was signed in Washington, though as Manila could not be reached, owing to the cutting of the cable from Hong-Kong, the surrender of that city to the Americans occurred August 13th. The unbroken series of victories achieved by the army and navy of the United States astonished mankind, profoundly impressed the statesmen of Europe, and changed the political geography of both hemispheres. The prin OLD GLOR Y'S TRIUMPHAL MARCH 215 cipal may be summarized, together with accessory events, in a few sentences. On April 22d was instituted a Cuban blockade by the American fleet under acting Rear-Admiral W. T. Sampson. On May 1st Admiral George Dewey reached the pinnacle of fame in a victory in Manila bay over the Spanish squadron commanded by Admiral Montojo, which was annihilated. On May 19th the Spanish "Cape Verde fleet," under Admiral Cervera, gained the port of Santiago de Cuba, and was promptly blockaded by an American squadron first under Commodore W. S. Schley, and beginning June 1st under Rear-Admiral Sampson. June 3d witnessed the heroic feat of Assistant Naval Constructor HIobson and seven men in sinking the collier Merrimac to block Cervera's egress. On June 20th an American army corps, under MajorGeneral W. R. Shafter, arrived off Santiago and effected a landing at Baiquiri. The bitter little fight of La Quasima came off upon June 24th, and on July 1st and 2d the battles of El Caney and San Juan, almost in sight of Santiago. On July 3d the Spanish war-vessels direction of Nelson A. Miles, Major-General commanding the United States army, began on July 25th. On August 13th, as before mentioned, Manila surrendered, and was occupied by American troops under Major-General Wesley Merritt. The joint resolutions passed by Congress on April 19, 1898, closed with the following solemn pledge: "Resolved, that the United States hereby disclaims any disposition or intention to exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction or control over the said island except for the REAR-ADMIRAL WILLIAM T. SAMPSON MAJOR-GENERAL WILLIAM R. SHAFTER pacification thereof, and asserts its determination, when that is accomplished, to leave the government and control of the island to its people." Harmonizing with which, in the treaty of peace with Spain (concluded at Paris, December 10, 1898, and ratified by the United made a dash out of the harbor at Santiago, and all six were burnt or sunk; five hundred wretches REAR-ADMIRAL WINFIELD S. SCHLEY at very least were killed or drowned, and nearly fifteen hundred taken prisoners, including Admiral Cervera. Two of the captured wrecks were raised early the following year, but only one, the Reina Mercedes, reached the United States, to be repaired at the Portsmouth, Virginia, navy-yard, and put in commission under the Stars and Stripes. On July 15th the Spanish commander, General Toral, agreed to surrender, and two days later General Shafter occupied Santiago. The invasion of Porto Rico by forces under the personal States Senate February 6, 1899), while Puerto Rico was ceded to the United States, the disposition of Cuba was in very different terms; namely: "Spain relinquishes all claim of sovereignty over and title to Cuba. And as the island is, upon its evacuation by Spain, to be occupied by the United States, the United States will, so long as such occupation shall last, assume and discharge the obligations that may under international law result from the fact of its occupation, for the protection of life and property." Americans will do well not to lose sight of these official proceedings, for in Cuba the end is not yet; nor of the "Foraker amendment" to the Army Bill, a clause which constituted the only piece of legislation attempted for our new dependencies by the Congress which ended March 4, 1899: "Provided, further, that no business franchises or concessions of any kind whatever shall be granted by the United States, or by 216 CUBA IN TRANSITION any military or other authority whatever, in the island of Cuba during the occupation thereof by the United States"-certainly an explicit declaration. On January 1, 1899, at noon, the Spanish sovereignty in the island of Cuba, the last of Spain's possessions in the New World, came to an end. As the red and yellow emblem descended from the Palace in Havana, and from the fortress of Cabana, Moro Castle and the public buildings, acting Governor-General Castellanos was moved to tears and retired for a few moments to his room, whence he quickly reappeared President McKinley, Major-General John M. Brooke entered at once on his duties as military governor of Cuba, General William Ludlow having already been assigned to duty as military governor of the city of Havana, and General Fitzhugh Lee been given the titular honor of administering Havana province. Brigadier-General Leonard Wood had been governing Santiago province for more than five months, with the greatest acceptance to its people, and with such alert and signal common sense as ought to make an American proud to claim him for fellow-countryman. HOISTIN THE STAR ANSTIES "H, R HOISTING THE STARS AND STRIPES ON THE PALACE, HAVANA, JANUARY 1, 1899 carrying a small satchel; then, escorted by the American Generals Wade and Clous, he made his way toward a steamer that was in waiting to convey him to Mlatanzas, there to superintend the embarkation of seventeen thousand Spanish troops. The Spanish flag had no sooner come down than the Stars and Stripes went up. The bands began to play the "StarSpangled Banner," while immense throngs along the Prado and other main streets cheered tremendously, and on the shore opposite Moro Castle-across the four-hundred-yard entrance to Havana's fine harborthousands more did the same. By appointment of Ever since the peace protocol was signed in August the Spanish forces, a hundred and thirty thousand strong, had been getting out of Cubla. Their superiors called it "the repatriation of the soldiers," a softened expression which made all hands feel quite cheerful and suited the Americans about as well as their proper English "evacuation." Before the protocol was signed, indeed, the government at Washington had awarded the contract for returning Toral's army of more than twenty thousand men to Spain (which was one of the terms of his surrender) to a Spanish transatlantic steamship company. The last OLD GLOR Y'S TRIUMPHAL MARCH 217 detachment of the forty-five thousand troops still in Cuba on January 1, 1899, left Cienfuegos on the fifth of February, and General Castellanos with them. "In Cuba,"' wrote a high Spanish officer who accompanied him, "were buried one hundred thousand soldiers during the last war, sad witnesses of the immense and futile sacrifices Spain had made to preserve Spanish Cuba; and in it remain, although as strangers, two hundred thousand living Spaniards, who represent the industry and increase the wealth of the island." Those who feared a change of the flag would provoke displays of bitterness, or perhaps armed conflicts, every village Cuban soldiers were in charge. Whatever may have been the actions of the Cuban soldiers in and about Santiago, during the campaign there, little reasonable fault can be found with them after the Spaniards went home. They moved right into the towns and villages, and preserved the peace and brought about a condition of order. They generally worked in harmony with our forces when these came, and their commanders detailed their men in accordance with suggestions from our generals and military governors. They might be seen patrolling at railroad stations, doing guard duty at the sugar-factories, and GENERAL MILES AND STAFF VISITING GENERAL WHEELER SHORTLY BEFORE THE SANTIAGO EXPEDITION SAILED FROM TAMPA were halppily disappointed. The worst that came to pass was a few disagreeable incidents in Havana during Christmas week, and which American authority quickly and easily suppressed. The Cuban people were sobered not only by what they had gone through during four awful years, but also by the new responsibilities that confronted them. In the utterly disorganized condition of the country it was best that military occupation should continue, and it did. "In all the large cities," said Franklin Matthews, writing for Harper's Weekly, in March, "the United States army was in control. In every small town and in going through the country with Anerican officers on hunts for bandits that swooped down into the towns occasionally and stole horses. They worked without pay, and they got their food and clothing as best they could. They practised no tyranny, and showed no spirit of hostility to American occupation." When Cardenas was first occupied by American troops the forty prisoners whom General Wilson found in jail were released, with a warning as to their fate if caught in any mischief, and for a month not a single Cuban was in jail, a fact which the citizens celebrated by hoisting a flag over the building. 218 CUBA IN TRANSITION Nor, as a rule, was there cause for much complaint respecting the behavior of the retiring Spaniards further than for stripping some of the public buildings of statuary and other ornaments, and apparently leaving their quarters in a studiedly filthy condition. By February the cigar-factories in Havana were running full blast, for the heavy capital they represented had been able in many cases, by subsidizing Spaniard and Cuban alike, to save many of the tobacco-barns in Pinar del Rio from the torch, and now the new crop, planted just after hostilities ceased, was about to come in. In marked contrast with the devastation and helpless misery prevailing throughout the island generally, Havana, to the casual observer, exhibited few traces of the ravages of war, aside from a crowd of sad-eyed applicants-women mostly-at the various relief headquarters, where the United States government was distributing thousands of free rations a day.: I ii ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~:Ydi WRECK OF THE MAINE AS IT APPEARED TWO WEEKS AFTER THE EXPLOSION Gradually settling in the soft, muddy bottom, the wreck at the end of ten months showed only the military mast and "fighting-tower" HAVANA: HARBOR, STREETS AND IMPROVEMENTS HE famous capital of Cuba, which is also the commercial center of the West Indies, and in normal times the foremost tobacco and sugar market of the world, is made up of the old and new portions, the former within and the latter without the walls erected centuries ago, but now of small account in the eyes of any one; and it has attractive suburbs, besides many and beautiful public parks and promenades. Havana harbor is very fine, none the less so because the traditional claim that a thousand large ships could anchor in it, all at a quay, ceased to be accurate when the day of large steamships came in. The entrance to the harbor is scarcely one fourth of a mile wide, and not much over two thirds of a mile long, and within is an extensive body of water, having three chief coves, or indentations, as shown in our plan of Havana on the large map of Cuba. The body of the harbor is about one and one fourth miles in length, while in breadth, from east to west, it varies from two thirds of a mile to double that. Its greatest HAVANA: HARBOR, STREETS AND IMPROVEMENTS 219 depth is forty feet, but the anchorage-ground fc vessels drawing as much as eighteen feet is only aboi one half the size of the harbor, which everywhere hl a bottom of foul and slimy mud. In such a plac of rest the Maine found in one awful moment i watery grave three hundred yards from shore. Fa( ing the sea, on the east side of the harbor entranc is El Moro, the most renowned fortress, unless poss bly that of Quebec, in the New World; a picturesqu grim-looking stone structure reared in the reign c England's Queen Elizabeth, and having at its foc the Twelve Apostles, such being the odd name of water-battery built to command the harbor's moutl \hlile chiefly useful as a lighthouse, the Spaniards t the last made it the dreary prison of political offend ers, though to a less extent than they did Caban. an immuense adjoining fortress, a little back from th sea and large enough to accommodate a garriso of ten thousand men. Finished in 1774, at a cost of $14,000,000, Cabana, so it is said, has a concealed and undergroulnd passage hollowed through the rock to the sea, where oit.............. its mouth- is disgiiised as a sewer wharf. Across the narrow harbor entrance, uponr tle sanme side SMALL SAILING CRAFT as the city of Havana, are other fortifications mor modern and of greater strength, including the Sant Clara Battery, well to the west, whlich repeatedly pre )r it as 3e ts ce, ie, >f )t a i.;o 1 - CORRIDOR IN THE SPANISH CASINO a, sented Blanco's compliments to the American blockLe ading squadron,but with no damage to vessels or men. n Havana, when itself, is a metropolis of wealth, luxury and good living, well nigh equaling Paris in f the number and excellence of its restaurants and a A oh princ torogf cafes. Its better portions are massively built up i. T with fine structures of stone or of brick, but so narrow are the streets, at least that iMurat HalAT THE WHARF IN HAVANA stea cal stead called it a re city of palaces fronting on alleys. Sidewalks and all, ta some of the principal thoroughfares are but twentye- two feet wide, which necessitates the regulation that carriages must drive through them in one direction only. The sidewalk is often no more than eighteen inches wide. The square, ungainly paving-stones rest directly on the soil, instead of being laid on a foundation, and the consequence is that on a rainy day the passage of a heavy vehicle causes the black mud, poisoned with the filth and disease germs of centuries, to exude between them until the streets are black with dirt. When the rain ceases and the sun comes out, street-cleaners are soon on the scene, so that most of the time the streets throughout the show portions of the city compare favorably, in point of cleanliness, with cities in the United States. But there are whole wards of unpaved streets, many of which, even in densely populated neighborhoods, are no better than rough country roads, full of rocks, LA FUERZA, THE OLDEST BUILDING IN HAVANA Erected as a military barracks in 1573, and in good preservation 220 CUBA IN TRANSITION crevices and mud-holes, and in the rainy season wholly impassable for several weeks together. -:: What their sanitary condition was during the Spanish regime may be imagined. The popular impression that Havana has no sewers is a mistake. It has about ten miles of them, some public, some private, but these were built at interrupted intervals, and without reference to any general plan of drainage. The preliminary work known in civil engineering as "precise leveling," the basis of city improvements of this kind, was never attended to until 18!99, under the admiinistration of General Ludlow. An exl)ert state- BARRED WINDOW OF ment a few years ago declared that along only three streets did the sewers subserve any good purpose, others were entirely choked up, and a majority gave forth highly offensive odors, which, however, would have been much worse did the American system prevail of a connection between house and sewer; and conditions were essentially the same iup to the date of American occupation. The sewering of Havana 10, a 0- in accordance with modern scientific principles will be an immense un3fl HAVN i dertaking. It was forgEthan0i~d t tunate from every point fl*ses may a a of view that so capable 1 1 o by0 -:an engineer as General Ludlow was the man on whom it devolved to face the problem, guarding also the treasury. Not only in Havana, but all over Cuba the dwelling-houses average a larger number of peohple than can be found in any United States city outside of such localities as the tenement districts of Greater New York. "At least twelve in every thirteen inhabitants live in one-story houses; and as the total civil, milDWELLING, HAVANA itary and transient population exceeds two hundred thousand, there are more than twelve inhabitants to every house. Tenementhouses may have many small rooms, but each room is occupied by a famnily. Generally the one-story houses have four or five rooms, but house-rent, as are also food and clothing, is rendered so expensive by taxation-lby export as well as by iniport duties-that STREET IN AN OUTLYING BARRIO, OR WARD, OF HAVANA HAVANA: HARBOR, STREETS AND IMPROVEMENTS it is rare for a workman, even one paid from fifty to one hundred dollars a month, to enjoy the exclusive use of one of these mean little houses. Reserving one or two rooms for his family, he rents the remainder. In the densely populated parts of the city the houses generally have no back yard, properly so called, but only a flagged court or narrow vacant space, into which sleeping-rooms open at the side, and in close proximity with these, at the rear of this contracted court, are located the kitchen, the outhouse, and even a stall for animals." [Report of a former Yellow Fever (ommission of the United States National Board of Health.] Is it any wonder that yellow fever has seemed impregnably intrenched in Havana, or that the deathrate of the city was double that of London and two thirds greater than New York's? More than one ward is largely constituted of reclaimed swamp-land, filled in with all sorts of refuse and garbage. In the unpaved streets great mud-holes have till recently abounded, covered witll / green slime and the cabins strung daily tides), Nature takes pains to largely change the water, and give to everything a wholesale scouring, whenever a "norther" descends in its might, pushing tons upon tons of water up into the harbor, to rush out with great force as soon as it lets go. Of Havana's public improvements the finest and most beneficial are its waterworks, a department that was found to be in better condition when the Americans acceded than any other. The source of the water is the fine Vento Springs, quite pure and inexhiaustible, nine CAPTAIN-GENERAL RAMON BLANCO CONSUL-GENERAL Later Major-General, a of Havana along on them are of character to match the ways they face on. Yet ADMIRAL PASCUAL DE CERVERA Y TOPETE there are othSpain court-martialed but acquitted him er suburban wards combining salublrity with beauty, in which few or none are attacked with yellow fever, except those who have been infected elsewhere. In such a sul)urb, Vedado, General Brooke took up his abode, instead of in the unlwholesomle surroundings of the Governor(General's palace. That the foulness of the harbor accounts for yellow fever making itself so much at home in Havana is a notion pretty well exploded. Hygiene has no better ally than the antiseptic qualities of sea-water, and in this case (not to mention the miles south of the city, into whicl it is conducted by a brick aqueduct chiefly under ground, and marked by turrets of brick and stone along its course. Reservoirs and conduits were put on a modern basis in 1894, though in places the aqueFITZHUGH LEE duct is still uncovered. The loose nd Military Governor and the short-sighted character of Province Spanish administration was illustrated by the turning over to the Spanish bank, in Ilavana, of the business of collecting certain kinds of taxes as a labor-saving means of repaying the bank seven millions of dollars borrowed from it for constructing the city's water system, together with a few smaller loans. Had the duty fallen to General MIiles of attacking Havana by land, it is understood the first and hardest blows would have been struck for the possession of the springs and great reservoir at Vento,. without whose life-giving waters Blanco would soon have found Havana untenable, and his formidable works of defense in a dozen different quarters have gone for nothing. The palace built for the governor-generals is on Obispo street. An imposing square mansion of white granite, it is generous in proportion, most elegant in arrangement both inside and out, and set off by noble 222 CUBA IN TRANSITION gardens and a profusion of Royal palms. In the long list of Spanish administrators Captain-General Las Casas, who acceded to power in 1790, stands preeminent as a just and public-spirited ruler who introduced many public improvements, and established agricultural and technical schools and botanical gardens in Havana. These latter are neither more nor less than elaborate parks, where the horticulturist's skill is exhibited to an unusual degree in the produc tion of beautifully shaded walks, rustic seats, carefully nurtured vegetation and neatly trimmed shrubbery, the whole being mirrored in numerous small lakes or ponds. It seems strange that all this while the postoffice business should still have been transacted in a most antiquated building so gloomy and in every way unsuitable that the American Director-General of Posts felt obliged to discard it entirely and to fit up instead a long since secularized Franciscan church.::::::: -::::: i._-::;::::r:::::_.:i::-;:~9:i:::::i:,::i::::...:.:::*::~: a i EL MORO, HAVANA HARBOR, IN MARCH, 1898, SHOWING THE FAMED LIGHTHOUSE LIFE IN HAVANA FiW tourists see more than the show portions of Havana, and these are beautiful, telling their own tale of wealth and refinement, with a confusing muster of theaters and churches, educational institutions, hospitals, galleries, museums, casinos, tempting fruit and general markets, and noble private residences, besides the public squares and parks, all contributing their part to the impression of grandeur and loveliness, coupled with a glitter and dash supplying all else that is needed to justify the ambitious self-chosen name of the "Paris of the West." The cathedral of Havana, venerable and heavy in aspect, and highly ornate in its interior decoration, is on a narrow street in a busy part of the old city. Here reposed in an urn the mortal part of the great discoverer of the New World until November, 1898, when the handful of dust was shipped to Spain. Such at least is the identification everywhere accepted outside of the adjoining island of Haiti, whose city of San Domingo claims not to have parted with the remains in 1796, as treaty stipulations with France required it to do, but instead to have sent other bones to Havana; so in San Domingo they still point out underneath the high altar in the old cathedral what they insist is the last resting-place of Columbus, and proudly show his sea-chest and other relics, probably genuine. These are guarded with sedulous care. The handsomest boulevard, or at least the one best known and always the most thronged, is the Prado (see the plan of Havana on the Cuba map), its south end the focusing-point of the city's life, while looking northward along and beyond it the eye rests, across the harbor entrance, on the gray front of El Moro, whose beams at night shoot over the Indian laureltrees that line the famed promenade. On the Prado, seated on a pedestal guarded by four large dolphins, LIFE IN HAVANA 223 is the finely chiseled statue of an American Indian maiden, symbolizing the West Indies, the whole rising from a mammoth basin of clear water and forming a beautiful fountain. No picture is more distinctly Havanese than the well-lighted Prado at night, with its lounging-places, its adjoining cafes, and thousands of people passing up and down, and in the encircled Central Park hundreds or thousands more seated in chairs (from which the city collects a revenue of ten cents a sitting), listening to the music from the clubrooms across the way. Hundreds of cabs, their lamps darting hither and thither like fire-flies, go dashing by. Scores of masked women ride past on their way to a dozen balls. Smiling and chatting, and politely bowing right and left, the crowds surge by, and the and quaintly despotic captain-general, whose memory is still cherished as the dispenser of substantial justice to the masses. Since the American authorities shut up the Plaza del Toro by prohibiting the sport of bull-fighting, it is the largest place of public amusement in Havana, and it enjoys a patronage perhaps unequaled by any theater in New York or Chicago. It was recently bought by an American syndicate. The Spanish Casino, corresponding to the Britisher's club-house, is a model of excellence and refreshing coolness, with spacious corridors, a whole series of patios, or inclosed courts, and innumerable loungingplaces. Though as a place of entertainment it is nominally open to the entire public, ordinary mortals are seldom seen to pass beyond its aristocratic portals. THE PRADO, HAVANA seductive influences of the hour leave an ineffaceable impression of brightness and pleasure. Amid such scenes no wonder the traveler does not realize the squalor and filth and fetidness abounding in other quarters of the city. The number and excellence of the cafes and restaurants form a striking feature of Havana's make-up. The Spaniards are extremely fond of good living, and that in a sociable way. Good hotels are numerous, and everywhere it is to be seen that the details and arrangements for good living receive constant attention. lThe largest and best-known hotel is the Ingleterra, which has luxurious apartments and elegant service, hardly surpassed elsewhere in America. Near this hotel is the Tacon theater, named after a former The better class of residences are built on a square or oblong ground plan, having an inner court (patio), where the family spend most of their time, it being very much cooler there than in any of the rooms. Frequently the smaller patios are perfect bowers of beauty, filled with flowers and plants of every kind, while in the great mansions of officials and others of rank and fortune they are large, airy and shady, exhibiting cool, polished floors, splashing fountains and luxurious couches amid arbors of foliage and flowers, and a more delightful place for the midday siesta or for the lighter services of hospitality could scarcely be devised. These patios are a peculiarly Spanish feature, borrowed perhaps from the Moors, who ruled the country of the Cid so long. A witty 224 CUBA IN TRANSITION journalist says that in the United States the houses are built inside the yards, but in Cuba the yards are built inside the houses. Seen from without, the buildings-every window barred with thick iron rods, the interior disclosing a lavish use of marble-suggest to a new-comer that here is a city of jails and fortifications. As to furniture, the Cuban household is always much devoted to the four rocking-chairs facing four other rocking-chairs across a rug in the parlor. They get mahogany for their furniture, and the pieces are of a most solid and substantial make. Such a thing as plush or velvet in use on furniture is almost unknown. The larger residences nearly all have immense windows facing on the / street, and out of these big windows the family spends hours together in looking down upon! the passing throngs,and under them the smitten 1 youth twangs his guitar. and sings of love to a I1i M.... dark-elyed senorita. The i strong iron bars before n. every window preclude ii impropriety, much less elopement, despite all.. which the young lady may be as much averse to staying in as her lover is to staying out. In everything the rules of courtship are very strict, 1 and the swain has no right to even touch the hand of his inamorata until formal consent to the marriage has been secured from her par- HIGH ALTAR OF SAN DOMINGO ALLEGED REMAI ents and the priest. The Sea-chest, cannon-ball and sre young lady never goes anywhere but in a carriage, no matter how short the distance. Even social calls are seldom permitted, and wherever the maiden is found it is always under the guardianship of a duenna, or elderly lady, who glaringly resents the bestowal upon her beautiful charge of anything more than a passing glance of admiration. Judged by American standards, a Spanish home is little less than a prison for the unmarried daughters of the family. However, the young people manage to communicate with each other somehow; at times they do it by notes slyly passed while kneeling at prayer in the gloom of the old cathedral. A new arrival in Havana remarks many unusual things. One of them is the method of delivering milk in the morning. Instead of the trim milkwagon, with its nest of shiny cans, to which we are accustomed in our own country, the cows themselves are driven througl the streets, and halted in front of each customer s door, where the required amount of the beverage are driven on. If we should follow them to the places where they are kept, we should find them penned in stalls in buildings that look pre- cisely the samIe as those lwagoRljlJns _rused for residences or stores, their early morning promenade being all the exercise they get, while as to grazing they hardly know what it is. In some of the smaller towns the cows may be aetacconlpanied with a little drove of nanny-goats, and the lady of the household is g iven hlier choice as to which kind of milk she will take. Formerly another comnmon street scene was the open sale of lotterytickets, whicll were not only obtainable at any of tbhe news-stands, bit were hawked about thestreet, 3ATHEDRAL, SURMOUNTING THE and they were )laced on S OF COLUMBUS s are treasured Columbus relics the arket eiter the government directly, or by companies in whose profits the government largely shared. American administration, however, has compelled the selling of lottery tickets to lbe done, if at all, under cover. Throughout Cuba thle light vehicle in general use is the volante, a sort of two-wlheeled phaeton, with a low, covered top and the wheels very wide apart. It is drawn by one horse. For light wagons mules are much favored, three or four some C [N WI LIFE IN HAVANA 225 times being driven tandem. They are used almost exclusively in the express- wagons, delivery-carts and the like.:. Heavy hauling is clone by ox-teams, as well in the cities as throughout the country universally.;: In Havana the antiquated mulepower street-cars have paid large dividends to the single company hereto-:3 i.'EI fore controlling this line of business, and which is capitalized at a million and a half of dollars; but this company is sure to have a trolley system for a keen competitor at an early date, and then how many of the six thousand >I at! public cabs will find their occupation gone remains to be seen. Until 1899::; (;!?- $: Havana had no banking system in the | full American or English sense, as,...... aside from occasional loans, usually in large amounts, the operations of the banks were pretty nearly limited to buying and selling exchange on American and European money centers. They did not solicit a deposit business, and only to a limited extent were bank-checks used, this not being a customary way of settling balances. The large merchants preferred to keep their funds stored in their own massive safes, and largely to this primitive mode of retaining control of their assets has been attributed the remarkable and highly creditable fact that no great failures occurred in consequence of the war and its complete prostration of business. The mercantile houses foresaw the coming storm, and trimmed their sails to meet it. The deposit business of the banks has grown immensely under American rule, tending A BANANA-VENDER ON THE PUBLIC SQUARE, HAVANA very much to increased convenience and saving of time in a thousand business dealings, if nothing more. Havana's enormous output of cigars and cigarettes is the product of labor skilled and intelligent to an extent that most Americans have not appreciated; and undoubtedly this fact bore direct relation to the fervor on behalf of "Cuba libre" among Cuban cigarmakers in general. The men are paid from twenty dollars to as high as thirty-five dollars a week, and each is allowed to make up from five to ten cigars a day for personal consumption, and this even when working in grades almost worth their weight in gold. The women and girls seldom receive less than a dollar a day, and seldom more than a dollar and a half. The interesting custom of public readings in the factories was stopped by General Weyler, because he thought it promoted sedition and fomented unrest, but just as soon as the war was over the practice was:ill N:;: resumed. Not a cigar-factory I,: -~;*-.of any size in Havana but has A - l it s hired reader. He comes twice a day, usually reading WInH^^ fl H an hour and a half at each session. Each reading is divided into two parts, one of which is given to newspapers, and the other to some book previously selected, general-:ei7~ - ly standard literature. The hands each contribute ten cents a week to the reader's A support, and when there are ONE STYLE OF DELIVERY-WAGON IN HAVANI 15 226 CUBA IN TRANSITION from three hundred to four hundred operatives in one room it may be seen that lie makes a nice income. Several times the manufacturers have tried to stop this custom for one reason or another, but the work men have resisted and invariably carried their point. In the way of books high-grade fiction is the prime favorite, though travel, history and humor are not neglected. Poetry may be chosen, but never science. CITY AND BAY OF MATANZAS, LOOKING NORTH SANTIAGO, MATANZAS, CIENFUEGOS: CUBAN RAILROADS IN THE Spanish-American war that made Santiago a household name, no one used the "unabridged" Saint Jago (St. James) of Cuba, bestowed in honor of the patron saint of the mother-land. The city is built in the midst of a mountainous country, on a steel) slope near the northern extremity of a bottleshaped harbor, and is a little over four miles from the sea. From the latter it is hidden by high, precipitous hills, on the principal of which the Spaniards built another Moro Castle, the place of imprisonment for a little while of ITobson and his brave lads, and from whose towers the fight on the ridge of San Juan hill was plainly visible. Founded in 1514 by the famous Hernando, it is the oldest city of any considerable size in America. For a time it was the capital of the island, and it still ranks with Havana as the seat of an archbishop. A census, that was largely an estimate, in 1892 gave it a population of 71,307. The houses and streets are of stone, except where the huts of outlying districts front on narrow dirt roadways, which before American occupation were fairly heaped with filth and putrefaction. Shut in as the city is by mountains, besides being further south, the mean of temperature is some degrees higher than in Havana. Add to the foregoing that the filth of the harbor is scarcely at all washed out to sea, and it is no mystery why Santiago has long passed for one of the most unwholesome seaports of the western world. A fine public drive, or paseo, restored a few years since from a ruinous condition, runs along the waterfront and well serves the same purpose of social life and enjoyment as does the Prado at Havana. Santiago never had railroad communication with other cities, and its traffic with Havana has depended on a line of island steamers, which, through the payment of a fat bonus to the Spanish government, assured its control of the trade without competition. Important mines of iron and manganese have been opened in the LIFE IN HAVANA 227 neighboring mountaills, and their proprietors have connected them with Santiago by short railroads. Three extensive iron-mining plants are owned by citizens of the United States, whose aggregate investments in them amount to twelve million dollars, not counting the cost of the ships for transporting the ore. It was at the iron pier of one of these syndicates, the Juragua Cormpany, that General Shafter made his principal landing at Baiquiri, and he also utilized that colmpany's railroad track so far as he li c0ould in advancing his left wing. Matanzas, situated on a bay of the same naime on the northern coast of the island, is fifty-four miles east of H-avana by the shorter of the two railroad connections, and with a norinal population of fifty-six thousand comes next to Havana in commercial importance, partly owing to the numerous railways that center here from the interior. It is a great sugar port. The most healthful city in Cuba, it also has the most American aspect. The buildings have wider fronts, larger airspaces in the rear, are not so crowded, and are better ventilated than the houses of Havana. But even here the ground floors are generally on a level with the sidewalk, and sometimes below it, so that in heavy rains not only are certain streets sure to be flooded, celebrated Bellamar Caves, a few miles distant, are reached by a substantial road, along which the scenery is magnificent. Many of the suburban villas, both in themselves and their surroundings, are ideal tropical hones,mnanifesting refined taste, not wealth alone. RESIDENCE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS Puerto Principe, capital of the large, thinly settled and purely agricultural province of the same name, is the largest inland city of Cuba, as also one of the most old-fashioned. Its normal population is about forty-six thousand. It has but one railroad, and that leads to its port of Nuevitas, upon a splendid harbor forty-four miles northeast. Cienfuegos, upon a landlocked harbor of the south coast, one containing a water expanse of fifty square miles, _ was founded in 1818, taking its name from the Spanish in ba exccaptain-general then ruling, and prior to the war had a population slightly over forty thousand. It has an all-rail in y a connection with Havana, and a large and growing commerce. A dozen miles or so in the interior is the celebrated Constancia plantation of six-ty-six thousand acres, consti'tiiting the largest sugar-plant in Cuba except one, with a producing capacity estimated at eighty thousand tons of sugar a year. It is owned by a company whose stockholders are mostly Americans, and which owns fifty miles of private railroad, a complete trolley system, and the best-equipped ENTRANCE TO THE PLAZA, CIENFUEGOS but likewise a great many houses. The Yumuri river, flowing past it, carries away much of the city's refuse, and is navigable in the rainy season for many miles. Matanzas, in the opinion of many tourists, offers to the sight-seer greater attractions than Havana. The 228 CUBA IN TRANSITION machine-shop on the island. Its "central" uses up three million pounds of sugar-cane a day, and every twenty-four hours during the season there are shipped from it more than one hundred tons of sugar, pro I I 1 1 I I ing it to Santiago. This will require the building of two hundred and fifty miles of new road. Whether they or a projected "backbone" railroad company of American capitalists will secure the necessary concession remains to be seen. For the present the "Foraker amrendment" given on page 215 blocks both enterprises. Meanwhile there is serious and passenger charges on all nig:;. al d i Cuban railroads. Five cents a mile in gold, or seven and a half cents a mile in Spanish silver, and double prices for all entertainment, make railroad excursions an expensive luxury. That Military Governor Brooke was slow to yield to the pressure of public opinion and decree a sweeping reduction in railway charges was doubtless owing in part JBA to what he knew of the hardship and sacrifices it had cost the roads to keep running at all during the war. They had a three years' struggle against men with torches who burned down stations; against men with crow-bars who tore up mile THE HARBOR AND CITY OF SANTIAGO DE CE duced at a cost of less than a cent and a half a p During the war the company equipped and eight hundred men, and built a series of block-I in order to protect its property, which it did, d more than forty skirmishes with insurgent raiders. Provisions ran low before the war ended, and almost all the work-oxen had to be butchered for food; but by strenuous effort work of some character was kept going all the time. Probably this is the only plantation in Cuba which escaped the doom of the torch without paying a cent for safeguards. In the economic rehabilitation of Cuba the railroads necessarily play an impor- - tant part. The present rail- S way system (see map of Cuba) is substantially in the hands of English capitalists, who control a continuous line from the town of Pinar del Rio, at the M end of the island, to Cienfuegos and other trac ters in the great middle province of Santa Clai now are anxious to complete their system by e SANTIAGO'S MORO CASTLE, WHERE HOBSON WAS CONFINED after mile of rails, and twisted them out of shape or hid them; against armed insurgent bands or whole insurgent armies; against dynamite explosions and similar deviltry; against the loss of nearly all ordinary RURAL CUBA: SUGAR AND TOBACCO RAISING 229 revenue, which was only partially offset by payments for transporting soldiers and army supplies. And they were bled continuously by war taxation. The railroad from Havana to the town of Pinar del Rio, one hundred and nine miles long, and the great artery of commerce with the rich tobacco region, did not pay a penny of dividends for seven years. During the war it lost three locomotives and sixty cars, nearly half its stations were burned, and mile after mile of rails was carried away. No track work could be done, and all paying traffic ceased. Still the road did not give up. The superintendent, a hard-headed Englishman, built thirteen armored cars at an expense of six thousand five hundred dollars for merely putting back to Havana almost starved. For months after the war the superintendent continued to receive letters from planters advising him that some rails 6f the Western Railway were down their wells, and politely asking him to send his men to pull them out. Even before war troubles came the Spanish tariff exacted almost five thousand dollars in duties for each English locomotive imported, and coal averaged five I:~; A COUNTRY VILLA NEAR MATANZAS the crude iron-plating upon them, and for a long time he employed one hundred and eighty armed men on trains made up of these cars, which were sent out daily to repair bridges and culverts, and find stolen rails and spike them down again. Once an armored train was out two weeks, long stretches of rails having been taken up behind it, and the crew finally getting ON THE ROAD TO THE BELLAMAR CAVES dollars and eighty cents a ton. The time-tables on all Cuban railways (excepting on the few short and isolated pieces of road in the eastern half of the island) are constructed with view to leaving Havana in the morning and returning to it in the evening. One train a day each way is the rule, and even the first-class coaches are hard-backed, jolting, uncomfortable affairs. There are no sleepers, and in fact no night-trains, but there is no lack of eating-houses along any line. On the branch roads, mostly running north and south from the main stems, the aim is to make connections at junctions about as would be done in this country, but it must be said lamentable failures defeat this purpose quite frequently. RURAL CUBA: SUGAR AND TOBACCO RAISING FEW corners of the island got through the war in shape to compare with the Constancia plantation already described. Many parts of it were reduced to a wilderness condition. Not to enlarge upon the impoverished circumstances of many planters, the lack of roads and of work-cattle painfully retarded the resumption of industry, through which alone restored prosperity could come. There are very few macadamized roads in Cuba away from the vicinity of Havana and Matanzas, and the dirt roads under the downpour of the rainy season become impassable, even with the four or six oxen customarily yoked to a single wagon, if loaded; and now there were few oxen left to begin so much as breaking the ground for a crop. They had been killed to ward off starvation. The country towns made the first show in the effort to take up the long-discarded ways of peace. In the cafes men played dominoes by the hour, gambling at it, of course, as every Cuban does. At night open-air bowling or other athletic games went on in the accustomed places. Long trains of mules, tied nose to tail, perambulated the streets, laden with vegetables and fruits, from almost inaccessible plantations in one direction or another, meeting, perhaps, the town milkmen driving their mixed herds of cows and goats from door to door. The boys played games on vacant lots. The little children ran about naked or nearly so, and many of the women who came out at sunset wore widow's weeds in a subdued, pathetic way. The country villages aped the ways of the towns to such 230 CUBA IN TRANSITION extent as they could, but the naked children and the sad-eyed women seemed more prominent features still amid the huts of palm-leaves or of boards, with thatched roofs, and strung out in wabbly rows for streets. Everywhere that a cemetery appeared it showed row upon row of graves almost new; in some The Cuban peasant, or farm-laborer, whether white or black, is an inoffensive, happy-go-lucky soul with few cares and no ambitions, perfectly contented with his family hut of one room, roofed with palm-leaf, no floors, mere openings for door and windows, and a lean-to for a kitchen. lie is fond of his gun, and sometimes of his fishing-rod, but dominoes and cock-fighting are his chief diversions; these he would hardly give up at even the unthinkable behest of the priest his father confessor. Ignorant allost as his own dog, but in his own way happy, he sits at the door of his hovel, and, if he thinks about the mbatter at all, rervembers that with ordinary good luctk he can, if lie really tries, make himself and his family comnfortal)ly well off in a twelvemonth, and in three or four years make himself rich for a man in his station. So wondrously fecund are the soil and climate of Cuba, and so blest w-ith marvelous opportunty are the daylaborers, at least in the Pinar del Rio tobacco vales. The tobacco-planters of western Cuba weathered the storm of war in somewhat better shape than did A CUBAN SUGAR-CENTRAL OF MEDIUM SIZE places adjoining land had been taken to piece out the burial area sufficiently. As one reviews the entire situation, it does not seem strh nge there was some brigandage, but rather that there was not more of it. The "cabin C(ubans" almost to a man had syvmpathized, by instinct, with the insurgent cause, and been shot or starved for it by hundreds of thousands, for the droves of reconcentrados had been made up mostly of this class. Now they longed to get back, not to their former abodes, but to where their abodes had formerly been. Bearing little or no malice, they cared for nothing-after the rations which the United States government was issuing them, to keep body and soul together -so much as quiet and the chance to raise their little patch of garden-truck, as of yore, living in a little hut which they could build in a FIELD OF TOBACCO week by virtue of their own brawn and the help of the ever-ready machete, and again gathering around them a few chickens, a pig or two, and possibly a cow. Some were able to realize their hopes the very first season, others did not; but wherever they dwelt little Cuban flags blossomed out thickly, though where or how procured no one knew, and usually they were mingled with American colors. y [N THE VUELTA ABAJO DISTRICT, PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO the sugar-planters of the central provinces, partly because theirs being a less commanding industry it had not been struck at with the same sweeping ruthlessness, and partly because they had, as planters, no manufacturing side to their business, with costly plants to be cremated. Theirs was the first industry to revive, and the contrast between the fresh and RURAL CUBA: SUGAR AND TOBACCO RAISING 231 beautiful fields of green tobacco in Pinar del Rio province, early in 1899, and the grass-grown fallowness of most other districts was marked. Nearly one half the normial crop of sixty million pounds was raised for the harvest season of February and Mlarch, 1899, and the crop was practically all sold at remarkably good prices before it left the field. It was worth considerable to the war-worn island, and especially to Havana, that instead of having to wait nearly or quite eighteen miontlbs for returns, as with sugar, tolbacco may be realizel from in six months after planting. The sugar indllstry in Cuba was not merely prostrated, but deplorablly handicapped in every way. The charred ruins of th sugar-centrals (large lills), with twisted rods anm fire-twisted and rust-eaten maclinery, were, so far a property was concerned, the saddest as also one of th commonest memorials of the savagery of war. On half the sugar-centrals of the entire island wer destroyed-in considerable districts nearly all. Whe] it is remembered that in five sixths of agricultura Cuba every other form of industry is really subser BREAKING SUGAR-LAND WITH OXEN AND WOODEN FLOW vient to sugar, and that a single large mill often draws its supply of cane from a radius extending a distance of forty or fifty miles, some idea may be formed of the situation at the advent of the American troops. Cuba was free, but Cuba was naked, starving, strengtliless-as incapable of doing for herself as a typhoid-fever patient the day after his "crisis." Culban sugar-plants are of two kinds, ingenios and colonias. Both grow cane, but the ingenios also convert it into sugar, which the colonias do not. The latter haul their cane to some neighboring central instead. Three to five million dollars is no uncommon investment in one of the larger ingenios, while to operate such a plant requires a capital of half a million to a million dollars. Its hands, with their families, make one to half a dozen little towns of themselves. Thirty, forty, or even sixty miles of private railroad is an important part of the equipment, other adjuncts being machine and repair shops of great size. A SMALL FARMER'S HOMESTEAD IN SANTA CLARA PROVINCE 232 CUBA IN TRANSITION Without money, weighed down with mortgages, their mills gone, their work-cattle gone, their equipment ruined, their people scattered or sleeping in quiet rows in distant cemeteries, the sugar-planters had such a prospect as only the known extraordinary fertility of the Cuban soil could enable them to face without despair. General Brooke's order extending all mortgages for one year was a wise and necessary Unfortunately the summer of 1899 was a disastrous one, owing to drought, so that the best judges predict a shorter crop in 1900 than even in 1899, when the sugar production was roughly estimated at five hundred thousand tons, or about one half the normal. A most deserving and at the same time peculiarly helpless class in the island are the small farmers, the higher grade of reconcentrados. To properly aid these distressed ones in somehow getting on their feet again was the primary object in organizing the Cuban Industrial Ielief Fund, chiefly supported by wealthy and benevolent citizens of the city of New York. The general manager of this association spent the greater part of 1899 in C(uba opening relief farms and distributing seeds and agricultural implements-a service greatly aplpreciated by those directly interested, although disliked by many of the large {TRY ROADS sugar-planters, apparently because success along this line means a reduced supply of wage-workers and probably an advance on the per diem pittance they have heretofore paid for labor. Says Mr. Howard, manager of the Relief Fund: "The assertion that there is a great need of labor in Cuba is idle folly. To say the Cubans will not work is a great slander on a deserving people." CUSTOMARY MODE OF TRANSPORTATION ON CUBA'S COUN relief measure so far as it went. There has been no serious difficulty in obtaining laborers wherever they could be assured steady employment, but the six hundred thousand additional oxen also essential can be gotten together only by degrees, even though double prices shall continue to be paid for acclimated stock. RECONSTRUCTION: RELIEF WORK AND SANITATION T HAS been said, and it is true, that during the first few months of 1899 there took place in Cuba a greater change in the methods and character of government than was ever before seen in so short a time. Spanish administrators scarcely attempted to inform themselves respecting the actual condition and needs of their several jurisdictions, whereas Generals Ludlow at Havana, Wood at Santiago, Wilson at Matanzas, and Davis at Pinar del Rio, giving these matters their close personal study, and the three latter making wide-extended tours to this very end became at once masters of the situation; besides which there was throughout the difference between American and Spanish ways in public affairs. The task undertaken by these officers and their assistants meant vastly more than the taking over of a system of administration from the late masters of the island. The whole machinery of government had to be taken apart, like an old clock, and put together again after a complete cleaning up and re-oiling, and very largely in new and better adjustments by means of a lot of first-class fresh material. It involved an enormous amount of labor and planning and consulting, together with exhaustless reserves of patience, courage, insight into human nature, and expert famil BRIGADIER-GENERAL LEONARD WOOD Military Governor of the Province of Santiago RECONSTRUCTION: RELIEF WORK AND SANITATION 233 iarity equally with l)tisiness and technical metlods. Relief work, sanitation and the maintenance of order were the problems most illlediately urgent. The first of these duties had been entered upon by American benevolence before the war, but now it was taken charge of by the national government, systematized thoroughly and much expanded, so as, if possible, to penetrate every faminethreatened place there was in Cul)a. During January and February, 1899, up)ward of twenty thousand persons continued to be fed by the United States government through the army agencies in Havana alone, and armywagons, with boys in blue for teamsters and guides, became familiar and welcome sights in towns and villages far in the interior. By the close of January three million rations (a ration being the food required for an adult one day) had been issued out of the accumulated stores. 'The widows of Spanish officers dead in Cuba, seventy of them, with a hundred and forty children, were left by the retiring authorities in their large home, a public institution, penniless and case of these homeless and helpless waifs. The Red Cross Association shortly evolved the plan of gathering them together, in convenient numbers as its workers could, and instituting small local asylums for almost without either food or friends. RED UROSS NURSES ACTIVE IN UARING FOR UUBAN URPHANS Tlhey were cared for. Tie orplhans found in the them of the plainest and simplest kind; and it is streets were mostly placed in asylums, the government pleasant to know that the Cuban officials and Cuban assuming the expense of their maintenan e at ten townspeople took hold and co-operated to the best dollars a month for each. Fifty thousand destitute of their limited means. "The women," wrote Clara orphans, the children of reconcentrado parents both Barton, "regard the asylums as something quite their own. In nearly every large town a young ladies' club is formed, from which two go A7":~ RETURNED FAIL Oeach day to assist in the ork at the asylum and to teach h the children." In the work of sanitation all Cuba there was nohing m eGeneral Wpood (an experienced regular-army surgeon and health officer) had set the pace, beginning with the first day of his rule in Santiago, July 20, 1898. This was three days after the formal surrender. Between forA RETURNED FAMILY OF RECONCENTRADOS ty and fifty thousand people of whom had perished, were scattered throughout the were still in the city, a great proportion of them sick interior towns and villages, from thirty to a hundred or starving, and even the best-off face to face with of them in a place, with no one to look after them. In destitution. Dead bodies lay in the streets, and it was all Cuba there was nothing more pitiful than the published as a fact that when General Wood made a 234 CUBA IN TRANSITION hurried tour of inspection on horseback through the city he startled into flight more than one bevy of vultures which had been feasting on human carcasses. To get food into the hands of the gaunt and dying populace was manifestly the first duty. It made the hearts of the American officers ache to see the widows, with pinched, wan faces, gathering around them and begging for bread. Equally moving wias the speetacle of little children, mere bags of bone, crawling about under the horses' legs, mutely lifting the same appeal. Forty-eight hours of intense labor on the part of the the uncleanliness of the various departments was usually in keeping with the noisomle patio. In many houses lay unburied dead, victims of the siege. Ten such were found in a single building. With tlle forces and tools available the reverent and timely burial of hundreds in the cemeteries could not be thought of, and at any rate cremation was far preferable on sanitary grounds. Eighty-seven bodies were consumed by fire in one heap. Thlere were scores of funeral pyres in all. This terrible task completed, the dead horses, mules and dogs were gathered up and disposed of. To clean ul) one street required three (lays. At the end of a few days General Wood had the city in shape to inaugurate a permanect system of sanitation..The first stepl was a lhouse-to-..i.. house insl)ection, sw iftl followed by the issue of ordelrs to empty the cessl(ools a-nd clean up generally. rJ'housands of li)iises were ordered to be wh-litewashed. (larl)age collection next reccived attention, by means of wagons sent arouand early each nmorning. It was hard occasionally to get families to (1o their part in providinlg boxes or barrels and delositing the garbage in tihem, but a mixture of firmnessand kindu ess soon cured the laost sullen. 'lle conditions to ble met in IIavana were less extreme, of course, blut nevertheless eighteen of the largest pful)lic buildin gs there htad to sbe cleaned up in January, 1899 -scrubbed andlsc(oured froin toj) to bottom, thelln washed )F THE RED CROSS with strong disinfctants, and every inch of inside sulrface eithlle repainted or given a heavy coat of whitewash, besides wlhiclh were numerous and expensive repairs, espe(ially in the plum-bing line. A large number of odorless excavators were ordered from the Tnited States, for the extirpation of hundreds and hlundreds of "black holes" in the stone-built business and residence sections. A complete healtlh census was ordered and taken by means of carefully prepared blanks, one for each household. The system adopted necessitated not only inspection, but reinsl)pections, and for weeks CLARA BARTON, PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION ( officers and men at the several relief stations tlhat were opened changed the situation to the extent of ending actual famine. Service to humanity had begun. Santiago had no sewers. The custoiim w\as to toss all household garbage into the middle of the streets, nmost of which incline almnost steeply tozward the bay, and trust to the next rain to wash it into the harbor. The condition of the houses was worse than the streets, in part from the plan of building around an inner court, where a cesspool, dreadfully foul. and offensive, was often found; and inside the dw^elling AMERICANIZING CUBA: THE OUTLOOK 235 eleven clerks were kept busy sending out notices to house-owners and occupants to attend to this or that item of sanitary requirements. At the same time the Marine Hospital Service, a branch of the United States Treasury Department, saw to inspecting all vessels leaving Havana for the United States, as also to vaccinating every unvaccinated person before taking passage on them. These measures bore good fruit through 1899, Havana's death-rate ranging far below that of corresponding months in former years. THE LAST DETACHMENT OF SPANISH SOLDIERS EMBARKING AT CIENFUEGOS, FEBRUARY 5, 1899. (See page 217) AMERICANIZING CUBA: THE OUTLOOK IN HAVANA, when the Americans came, the police force consisted of three hundred municipal police, appointed by the City Council to enforce city ordinances; three hundred government police, appointed by the authorities of the province, and twelve hundred others who really belonged to the military. The first and last mentioned bodies had to turn their prisoners over to the government police. As there were no station-houses, all prisoners and susp)ects were taken at once to the city jail. Beyond an entry of the arrest no records were kept of any kind; a policeman had nothing further to do with the case, and commonly he lost sight of it at once. John McCullagh, a former New York City chief of police, was summoned to create a police force for Havana. Of twenty-seven hundred applicants eight hundred passed the examination and were accepted, without distinction of religion or past political sympathies. General Menocal, formerly of the insurgent army, was appointed chief. MAost of the patrolmen were members of the best Cuban families, though mingled with them were a number of Spaniards. Some had been wealthy, many looked like once prosperous business men, and all were alert, intelligent and ambitious to succeed, though not to be allowed to smoke while on duty almost created a panic among them at first. The men had to be drilled; the officers to be taught how to give commands, as well as how to execute them; the one hundred and eighty regulations, drawn up in Spanish and English, had to be explained and enforced, uniforms and badges to be made, and a full set of record-books to be printed and their proper use inaugurated. Every street in the city was measuredsomething never before attempted-and districts and beats were laid off, and station-houses located and equipped, accordingly. It was a heavy task, but it was a success, and by March the American soldiers were relieved from their irksome yet faithfully discharged duty as policemen. Street cleaning and repairing was a gigantic task in Havana, as it had proportionately been in Santiago. The work was systematized in detail. Each district 236 CUBA IN TRANSITION was placed under an efficient superintendent whose reports were made to headquarters every day, with exhaustive reports, in writing and frequently elucidated by maps, made every week. In January, 1899, twenty-five hundred cart-loads of dirt were hauled away, and then the force and the equipment were Another great work was done in the custom-house, whose methods, pay-rolls and everything were completely reorganized. For the first time in four hundred years honesty was installed as the presiding genius, and blackmailing and bribe giving and taking were shown the door. When the first refund of duty was made to a merchant, to correct an overvaluation, commercial Havana was like to stand on its head. Not only the merchant, his employees and his friends were on hand to witness the unheard-of procedure, but the corridors were jammed with a curious and partly incredulous crowd; and when the money had actually passed the cheer that rose might have been heard beyond the limits of the harbor and out to sea. The Ohioan appointed Director of Posts of Cuba had to practically make all things new. He first separated the postal from the telegraph business, both heretofore under the same management. He got out new postage-stamps, and as rapidly as he could he scattered them over the island. One after another he introduced the features of uniformed and salary-paid carriers, of registering letters, of money-orders, of A VOLANTE, THE MOST COMMON CONVEYANCE IN largely increased, and the streets scraped and swept, each gang having a definite length assigned to it. Owing to the narrow streets and the character of the climate a great deal of the work had to be done at night. In one week early in February an aggregate length of 575,000 feet of the streets were cleaned, and 983 cart-loads of city refuse taken out to sea and dumped. In one month 3,000 square yards of repairing was done, as also of macadamizing 23,000 square yards. Another bureau of the same department, all under a military appointee, gave heed to the sewers and to water distribution; a third to the inspec- CUBAN LABORERS UNDER tion of buildings; a fourth to caring for temporary public works; a fifth to the care of public property in general; and a sixth had charge of the harbor, with its buoys and beacons, wharves, etc. Every item of these multiform duties was discharged with such efficiency as the old Spanish capital had never seen. I. II i I " AMERICAN SUPERVISION REPAIRING A ROAD NEAR SANTIAGO mail-boxes, of collections. Ite scrutinized the postal contracts, and on two of them he effected a saving of one hundred and two thousand dollars; and by May he had in operation a service conducted upon essentially the same basis as in this country, with an almost complete modern equipment. AMERICANIZING CUBA: THE OUTLOOK 237 As a general thing the measures we have described, and also others along similar lines, were received with satisfaction by the Cuban public, some of themi witlh positive enthusiasm. United States money shortly drove out tlie old Spanish currency to a large extent. American financiering methods began to be adopted, and nowhere did American ideas encounter distrust except among a minor class, chiefly.politicians and military men, who declaimed against any postpone- ment of full independence. The numerous body of Spaniards remaining (who embrace the greater part of the wealth and aristocracy of the island), as also a great many propertied Cubans, are all looking longingly forward to annexation to the United States,believing that only through this gate will tranquillity and prosperity come back to Cuba to stay. Will annexation HAVANA CATH; be the outcome? Possibly in the end, but not through force. Of that we may be sure. The eagerness manifested in country towns and villages, as also in the cities, to possess school facilities, EDRAL, ON A NARROW STREET IN THE OLD PART OF THE CITY and to learn the language which the Americans use,. is one of the most hopeful features of the Cuban outlook. Concerning which latter the opinions of one of the most capable and disinterested of American observers. is worthy the consideration of every one::"The people of Cuba are anxious to have a thorough reorganization of the school system and to have the schools started. Without exception all desire-I might say demand-American teachers. They are anxious to learn English, anxious to become Americanized.... As a class the Cuban people are anxious to work, and there is. not the slightest difficulty in getting all the men necessary CABIN CUBANS OF THE INTERIOR 238 CUBA IN TRANSITION ment must be under military control until it is comliletely established." vana after the Spaniards899) Dleft wPS of course, app ointed by t he Americans in military occupation.s voting as an essential step toward self-governtoent. Thse hoin e eltl on Per-w 1/:feeto Lacoste, a wealthy, cultured a nd unfli ncs in adherent of the Cpubian cause, who, at his countr y estate, had entertained Maco only a fortnight before the latter's death. It was September (1899) i'D POSTAL SERVICE before General Ludlow deemed it best to order a municipal election, and then only to fill temporary and non-administrative positions, the object largely being to train the citizens in voting as an essential step toward self-government. Considerable interest was shown in the election,which passed off without any serious disturbances. A fine object-lesson in the upholding of law without using the military was given during a strike that followed. MAIL-WAGON AND UNIFORMED EMPLOYEES IN REORGANIZE to do any work, excepting labor in the mines. In fact, the problem has been rather to find something for them to do, and the money to do it with. If we give the Cubans an honest, economical, non-political government under military control, using every means to put the most deserving and competent Cubans in office, liberalize and Americanize their institutions, improve the sanitary and other conditions of their towns, organize and put in effect a suitable school system, get rid of the present intolerable administration of criminal law, and put in operation an equitable system of taxation-if we do this, we shall find there is no 'Cuban question' left. We shall find that we are dealing not with a suspicious and resentful people, but with a race who will appreciate what we are doing for them, and who will give us their cordial support. Of course, it would be foolish to claim for the people of Cuba to-day all those sturdy qualities which we expect to find in a people accustomed to self-government and self-control. We did not expect to find these conditions when we went there, and it is poor policy to dilate upon the fact that they are not, perhaps, as conspicuous as among longestablished nationalities. The people of the island desire that their new government shall be as nearly like our own as possible, and in establishing such a government we can count upon their support and approval. There are, of course, agitators and dissenters, seekers after notoriety and position. There are robbers and murderers and all classes of people. But the majority of Cubans want good government, liberal in form, and they look to us for it. This govern FUTURE FACTORS IN CUBA'S RACE PROBLEM PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE. 1 IT \WAS on his second voyage of discovery to,:_ the Ne-w World that Columbus, sailing eastward froln Haiti, sighted land and found on it a magnificent spring, which, he said, gladdened his heart, and he gave to the island the name of Puerto Rico, leaning "rich port." This occurred in /, XNovember of 1493, and the spring may still b)e seen at Pueblo Vieja, on Aguadilla Iay. The name Porto Rico is neither good l Spanish nor good English, but a bastard term, which nevertheless bids fair, by virtue of long use, to hold its own against all criticisms. The Spanish conquest, again approaching by way of Haiti, occurred in 1509, and in a generation or so the aborigines were practically exterminated, though to this day there is a larger infusion of Indian blood among the (:-ibaros, the rural masses of interior Porto Rico, than among the indigenes of Cuba. Ponce de Leon, who was the first Spanish governor, founded San Juan, built his Casa I-llanca fortress there (and it is still standing), voyaged to Florida, and wore himself and his companions out in searching for the elusive Fountain of Youth, and died in 1521, in Cuba, wllence his remains were brought back and now repose in a leaden case beneath tlhealtar of the ancient Dominican church in San Juan. Porto Rico was supplied with an emblem from Madrid-a lamb bearing the device Faithful Isle; and in 1870 the long-suffering colony was united for governmental purposes to Spain, being declared a province of that country, and given representation in the Cortes. Very burdensome were the taxes and the maladministration it endured; andc it is much to be regretted that the dilatoriness of the United States Congress in reconstituting its civil government, and defining its exact status as an integral part of the United States, has worked severe hardship for a friendly people who had a right to expect better things of the great republic. 23' Porto Rico is the fourth in size of the West India islands, coming next after Jamaica. Its length is a trifle over one hundred miles, breadth from thirty-two to thirty-seven, and total area three thousand seven hundred square miles, making it about three fourths the size of Connecticut; and its total of more than eight hundred thousand people makes it almost, if not quite, the densest agricultural population to be found anywhere in the Western hemisphere. This fact strikingly attests its fertility, which outvies even that of Cuba. The latter, with an area more than eleven times as great, has only sustained about double the number of inhabitants. So small an addition to our COUNTRY SCHOOL NEAR PONCE territory as that above mentioned can never become a leading factor in supplying the $250,000,000 worth of tropical products which the people of the United States annually consume, nor can it absorb any large percentage of the $1,200,000,000 of what we produce each year, especially as nine tenths of the people of Porto Rico live in most primitive style, because of a poverty almost moneyless. But its industries will undoubtedly receive a marked impetus as soon as Congress puts an end to its present financial chaos, reforms its internal administration, and gives its 240 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE planters a fair show in the American markets, by placing the island on some such basis as Hawaii. Numbers of the American investors will make fortunes, and hundreds more do well. But unless startling discoveries are made of thus far unsuspected mineral resources, Porto Rico in a very few years will chiefly stand to most of Americans as a charming pleasure resort, and above all a delightful place of winter residence. The conPORTO RICAN GIRL ON stant breeze-from the sea by day and from the land by night-tempers the heat to comfort during nine months of the year, while the opportunty to quickly and easily gain almost any desired altitude very much enhances its attractiveness to those seeking health as well as recreation. Porto Rico in transition has more to interest the tourist, and less to repel him, than Cuba. In its towns a succession of strange sights and sounds presents a constant kaleidoscopic entertainment._Street venders, carrying their goods on their heads, or in huge panniers on diminutive ponies, cry:" I: their wares in quaint and pleasant-sounding tones. Long lines of rude carts, drawn by quick-stepl)ing, broadhorned oxcn, go alonk busy streets. Native women, smokuing black cigrars, dflit hither and thither, and nude cildren of all colors, as likewise all ages below eight years, disport themselves unconcerntations d d wh te edly upon the streets workmen, const e and narroev w sidewalks; while United States officers and soldiers are constantly in evidence, busy with multifarious duties, including many that belong to the government. On the country roads the unfoldings of a beautiful and varied landscape, embracing mountains and valleys covered with tropical growths, dashing mountain streams and overhanging cliffs, and extensive sugar and coffee plantations dotted with the tiny huts of their native workmen, constitute a panorama of ever-new interest. P STATUE OF COLUMBUS, ON THE PLAZA, SAN JUAN. (See page 252) HARBORS, MOUNTAINS AND ROADS 241 OUTLINE MAP SHOWING RELATION OF PORTO RICO TO OTHER WEST INDIA ISLANDS The United States government has already set aside a large tract on the bay of San Ju an for a navy-yard. It is hard to rise to the navy's enthusiasm over the strategic value of Porto Rico, or to sink into the belief that Uncle Sanl's futire happiness depends on his owning a little patch like this; yet any person who looks at the map will see it makes a right handy outpost. For guarding the Atlantic approach to the coming and transcendently important waterway across the istinhmus of Pananma, a strong fleet at San Juan would occupy a station of extraordinary advantage. To that port froln principal points elsewhere the distances, in round numbers, are as follows: From (Colon, at the eastern end of the proposed Panama canal, 1,200 miles; i lt. --- l -St.Pi RTINQU: from Greytown, at Ftde Fa ^) the eastern termi- nus of the proposed BT. w Nicaraguan canal, T.VINCE BR a trille less; from (IE.) GRENADINE (!harlotte Amnalie, (Brj.) AEN'DA the port of the l)a- Bi.Geor I. co nislh island of St. _0 _ __ Thomas, 100 miles; from Kingston, Jamaica, 750 miles; from Cape Haitien, on the island of Haiti, 400; from Iavana, 1,000; from Key West, the same; from (adiz, Spain, 3,000. A well-patronized packet-line runs from New York. HARBORS, MOUNTAINS AND ROADS T HE West India islands are really the pinnacles of a great buried mountain chain, the mightiest and most pirecipitous ever measured by man, its base, almost straight down, being thousands of feet below the sea than the highest Himalayan above it. This chain extended far eastward iat is now the isthmian region of the northern nt. Porto Rico uplifts itself well toward the lowering eastern limit of the range, which, prolonged still eastward, presently sinks into the Atlantic ocean beyond the island of St. Thomas. In that direction coral reefs especially abound, and as these have not vet been accurately charted seamen prefer to keep clear of the eastern coast, though sometimes touching at Fajardo, where General Miles was to have landed his expedition,in July, 1898, but changed his course at the last moment for Guanica. Humacao is a minor port. Notwithstand WAGON AND BLACKSMITH SHOP ON MILITARY ROAD NEAR COAMO 16 242 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE ing it is far less used than Playa's, Guanica disputes with the latter, w-hich is the port of Ponce, the distinction of having the best harbor on the south coast. At the western end of the island the harblors of Mayaguez and Aguadilla are extensively used, but neither is first-class; and on the north Arecibo is the only resl)ectable one until San Juan, deeply ell)ayed and snugly sheltered, is reached, at two thirds thle distance toward the northeast angle of the island. The ports above nlentioned are all shown on our colored mlnal), consulting which Porto Rico's regularity of oblong outline strikes the eye at once. Its coast-line but little exceeds that of -Massacllusetts, so that the imuster of one excellent harbor and four or five others "from fair to middling" loes not really call for apologies. aiiotlher, and these give rise to a multitude of little secluded valleys, all of them most fertile. Here and thlere the face of a mnountain shows p)erfectly bare, denuded of soil by the action of the elements, and destitute of all vegetationl but, generally speaking, the motuntaini-sides are cultivated to the very summit. Tlhe Encyclopedia Britannica sl)eaks of thirteen hundred streams in l'orto Rico, of which forty-seven are considerable rivers; but in reading this one needs to renlellller A what a Lillil)utian affair a Spaniard's or an Englishman 's "river" often is, comrl)ared with the Father of Waters and other majestic currents that forlll tlhe standard of an American. Still, Porto Rico is wondrously well watered Nwith fast-flowing streams and rivulets, particularly so to the nortll of the central range, where those of greatest lengtli are. To the traveler they seer m to gush out of the very mountain crests, whence, finding their way down the narrow valleys that separate the interlacing steeps, they flo\\ on sonolrously through deep gorges or again amid fertile l)ottoi lands, spreading greenness and 1)eauty to the verge of the sea. As the tourist climb)s up the dizzy mountain trail 3he may occasionally see exquisite sun-lit falls (lropping one? ON THE RIGHT. (See page 252) hluldred feet,or possi)ly twice that, over rocky v)reei)ices half hidden wv itll giant ferns and glowVing clusters of flowering l)lants, while from the depths of ihugoe ravines conmes tlhe soiund of ruslhinig waters concealed collpletely 1by a dense mass of tropical growftls. It is a hard country for road-bullilding, and, save for the excepltions b)elow noted, tllis prime necessity of industrial developmlent lhad scant attention at the hands of the Spaniards. For tlhe last year of Spanish domination the tax estirnates included $1,475,065 for the army and navy, with $1,93,610 for the support of the church (these three objects consuming nearly one half of the total revenue), )but only $878,175 for roads, harbors and publ)lic works of every kind, and the greater part of even this sum went for salaries and labor that were restricted to the few military roads. "THE POINT," SAN JUAN, FORMER GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S PALACE From west to east, \witll a slightly northwNAard trend, a central range of imountains stretches the length of the island, as lowv in solme places as 1,800 feet, l)ut for the most part from 2,)000 to 3,000 feet high. It forms the most striking physical feature of Porto Rico, powverfully influences its climate, and largely contributes in one way or another to its amazing fecundity of vegetation. The highest district of the island is in the northeast part, where El Yunque"The Anvil"-a peak of the Luquillo mountains, as they are locally known, rises at least 3,700 feet above sea-level. luquillo, however, equally b)elongs to another and elsewhere low range running nearly parallel with the north coast, and only four to twelve miles from it. Both ranges throw out spurs in abundance-sometilmes fairly dovetailing one with CLIMATE AND PRODUCTS 243 These latter aggregate about two hundred and twenlty-two miles. Along them, at distances from five to seven miles apart, forts with stone or brick bIarracks attached were built as places of halt and refreshment for troops upon the march. Millions for the soldier, thousands for the people, is how Spain proportioned things in all her colonial financiering. Tle military road connecting San Juan with Ponce was General Miles' chosen line of advance, and there is nothing finer in the United States. It is eightyfour niles long, passing through (Caguas, Cayey, Ayl)onito, (oamo and Juana Diaz (see our map), and through Ponce to Playa, the port of that place, on tlle sea-shore. Froml twenty to thirty feet wide, this road( winds in and out along the steep mountain-sides out of which its bed has been cut. So clear and clean did the Spaniiards keep it that it used to be said a bicycle corps could have made the eighty-four miles without having to dismount once; and though it crosses the central mountain ridge at a height of at least twenty-two hundred feet, the ascent is too gradual to cause unusual fatigue. American army engineers think the road could be built at this time for ten thousand dollars a mile. Its cost to Spain is not known precisely, but there is good reason for placing it at more than twice that. Of other military roads fifty or sixty miles were well kept up, besides which Mayaguez and Aguadilla hlave splendid roads to their respective ports, distant scarcely half the range of a modern cannon; but a number of the so-called carriage-roads have few or no bridges, and hence are impassable in the rainy season for vehicles, and even at times for horsemen. In the mountains are a few little towns noted as health resorts, and these may commonly be reached without difficulty. Generally speaking, however, interior communications are mere patls from three to six feet wide made by planters owning the adjoining estates. Along these horse-trails the sure-stepping ponies, if more than one, pick their way in single file. A FARM-HOUSE OF THE USUAL CONSTRUCTION ON THE MILITARY ROAD CONNECTING SAN JUAN AND PONCE CIIMATE AND PRODUTCTS SOMEI of the small West India islands, destitute of timber and high mountains, both of which have a powerful effect in attracting clouds, suffer greatly from droullghts. For instance, in the French island of St. Bartholomew, two hulndred miles east of Porto Rico (see map on page 241), a whole year sometimes passes without a drop of rain falling, and the inhabitants, after exhausting the cisterns, are compelled to import water from some adjoining island. So different from this is Porto Rico that the days are few indeed on which showers at least do not fall somewhere; and often on the south coast, which is largely 244 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE COFFEE-DRYING YARD ON A PLANTATION IN PORTO RICO robbed of its precipitation by the central mountain range intercepting the clouds wafted on the prevailing northern winds, and where the intervals between considerable rainfalls sometimes extend over several months, the rivers are never entirely dried up, and the air always carries a sensible degree of moisture. Humidity, in fact, is a leading feature of the Porto Rico climate. More than anything else it is what mantles the island with its beauteous green, and. blesses it with rare fertility to the mountain summits. Rust quickly eats out all iron, and even the old-fashioned bronze cannon the Spaniards were accustomed to cover with a strong varnish as a protection from the damp winds. For similar reasons the amateur photographers among later armies of tourists have to learn their art over again in respect to manipulating FRUIT-VENDER F their films and plates. On the stock-farms pasturage never burns up, but keeps green the year round, and stock require no dry feed at any season. lBuild a brick wall without painting it, and in three years you can grow lettuce in the moss that will have formed upon it; and this merely illustrates w-hat the moistladen air is constantly doing to hell the planter's crol)s and the laborer's truck-patch along. On the other hand, it Ilakes tobacco-drying a lnuLch more uncertain process than in Cuba, and as to healtli requires special precauitons. - Thoullgl Porto Ilico is a degree and a half of latitude further solth than Santiago, its imean temperature is a lower one even on tile coast, and in the nloutntainl altitudes the heat is altogether more endluralble than in Florida, the nights both in sullmer OM THE COUNTRY and wrinter being cool 'R( CLIMATE AND PRODUCTS 245 and bracing. A climate exhiliting such variety in localities which are only a few hours', or at most one day's, horseback journey apart hardly exists elsewhere in our entire domain. With one hundred and four degrees for the maximium ever recorded, it is rare for the temperature to range above ninety along the coast. The stifling closeness so hard to bear on many days of tle C(uban summer is hardly felt here, for welln the sea-breeze dies the land-breeze takes its place, descending from the cooler heights of the interior, and l)etween the two comfort is dispensed to man and beast through the whole twenty-four hours. While tlhe trees are always green, a distinction is easily traceable between the seasonal extremes in each year. Summer and winter are terms in regular use, tlhough the commoner division is into dry season and wet season. The latter are defective generalizations for Porto Rico, as there tlle region north of the central mountain range may be deluged at tlhe same time that the region south of it is still getting along, as it has been doing for montlhs, on only its heavy dews and moist winds. The rainy season proper begins during August and continues until some time in December, with the usual drenched phlenomena of tropical lands at this part of thle yearly cycle. Ileavy rains come at intervals, however, as early as lMay and thenceforward, commonly announced by tremendous thunder-peals, and followed by the brightest of sunshine, the com San Juan, and occasionally it breaks out in other ports, but away from the coasts it is unknown. The most common diseases are of either dysenteric or malarial type-indigestions or fevers, and next after these come catarrhal and pulmonary complaints, these NATIVE PORTO RICAN GIRLS AT HOME being easily contracted by unguarded exposure to the clammy dampness of the beautifully clear, dewladen nights. With due precautions, however, the Allerican will encounter less risk as to health than in any other portion of our tropical possessions except Hawaii. The time is coming when Porto Rico will be a veritable Mecca for winter tourists, and health-seekers of nearly every type. The breezy, steaming, sunkissed isle brings forth all manner of tropical products, including fruits and vegetables in countless variety, the garden growths yielding two, three, or occasionally even four crops a year. Discriminating observers predict its destiny to be a great orchard and garden-patch for supplying the cities of the United States. Among the indigenous fruits are oranges and limes. Fields of twenty-feetBOVE SEA-LEVEL high bananas grow upon the hills and everywhere, their green leaves a foot wide and five or six feet long, and some varieties blossoming out blood-red. Breadfruit-trees, with fan-like leaves flopping at every stir of air, grow to an altitude of two thousand feet. Plantations of sugar, the cane HOTEL AT AYBONITA, NEARLY THREE THOUSAND FEET AI bined effect being an amazing vivification and stimulating of all sorts and conditions of vegetable life. BIecaulse of its mountains and its multitude of running streams Porto Rico is, on the whole, a healthful country. Yellon fever lurks in the uncleanliness of 246 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE sickly green in color, but growing rank and tall, cover the level stretches along the coasts and all the valleys. Above them are the tobacco and coffee belts, while some of the highest hills are crowned with pasturelands, Porto Rico being a great stock country. Notwithstanding the forests have nearly all been cut away, the view in every direction takes in masses of rich and glossy foliage, lifting proudly skyward, or streaming in long green lines of drooping grace, and in the season showing a wealth of many-colored blossoms. Under fern-trees thirty feet high, or at least close by, maiden-hair ferns may be gathered with filaments as fine as any lace. Conspicuous most of all up in the mountains, as well as lower down, are the Royal palms, the lordliest tree of the tropics. The sea-coasts are lined with cocoanut groves. In 1515 an army of ants devoured everything in their path, to the sore discouragement of Ponce de Leon's colonists. The visitation seems never to have been repeated, and there are no poisonous serpents. However, the teeming insect life includes great ugly spiders and other noxious insects, together with fleas as nearly ubiquitous as any on earth. Pack a good supply of insect-powder in your grip if you are going to Porto Rico. On vampire bats, said to attack sleeping animals at night, one need not waste a thought., [ kA. I 1 1%. L-,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I A FUNERAL PROCESSION IN PONCE THE GREAT HURRICANE OF I899 THERE are no craters of extinct volcanoes in Porto Rico, and earthquake disturbances are neither frequent nor severe. But unhappily the island lies in the hurricane belt, and four or five times in a century it is swept from end to end as with a besom of destruction. The hurricane of October 29, 1867, killed six thousand persons, and that of August, 1886, was likewise very severe. One of the worst ever known, always excepting the great storm of August 22, 1772, occurred on the afternoon and night of August 8, 1899, accompanied, as usual, by a tremendous downpour of rain, swelling the little streams into raging torrents. The south and southeastern districts were the greatest sufferers, the towns of Hlumacao, Clayey, and Aybonito (see map) being practically wiped out. Ponce and its vicinity were the scene of fearful destruction. On the breast of the flood, in which the little river Portugues was completely hidden, whole families were swept away in their frail houses without a moment's warning. In one yard after the waters had receded were found the bodies of a father, mother, daughter and grandmother, and in one pile of drift the bodies of twenty-four peons who had huddled together to perish like rats. Another body was that of a beautiful girl, evidently refined and of good family. An American lately come to Ponce, resol THE GREAT HURRICANE OF 1899 247 ving not to be panic-stricken, remained in his new and substantially built house until the water was up to his neck, when he struggled out, and only by the aid of some unknown hand was saved from being swept away. The flood at its height was a scene grand and appalling beyond words. House after house swept past toward the sea, the cries of their occupants rising above the sound of the raging torrent. Flashes of lightning illumined the darkness at frequent intervals, followed by deep-toned thunder. Lamps were hung upon balconies and at windows by the occupants of many houses, and the most heroic efforts were maintained all night in the way of rescue. Some were saved on rafts of logs tied together, and others by boats. The entire city was practically under water. Many thought the last day had colne, and shrieked aloud to Heaven for mercy. The entire household of one planter on the Portugues river, some little distance above Ponce, were swelt away an(l drowned. On the next morning thousands of forlorn and 0 Ihomieless wretches might have been seen Ihu(ldled together in the cllrclles and( the public buildings of the towns, and in the country they crept nightly under the remains of their former huts. The i military road from Ponce to San Juan w as strewn Morlina, Photographer, P'once with trees wrenched off PLANTER AND FAM] bly the telmpest, as well This household suffered gre as boulders and debris washed from above, and it was some days before it could be made passable. Floating debris, carried by raging rivers from the towns and fields of the interior, was seen floating miles out at sea. One queer sight was a cottage in which at the early hour of dawn a candle was burning. Two hundred thousand laborers became in one night a charge llpon the inland towns; the crops being destroyed they had no work. The local authorities could help them but little, for the citizens and merchants had all lost heavily, while some of the towns were swept out of existence. The destruction of crops was a terrible calamity to all parts of the island, though at first attracting less attention than the destruction of )uildings in the cities. The loss of life from falling walls and drowning reached from three to four thousand, and that of property many millions of dollars. General Davis, the military governor, set the whole machinery of government to work for the relief of distress. His dispatches to the government, though understating the facts, told a harrowing tale: "One third of the people subsist entirely on fruit, and to some degree on tubers. All the fruit is destroyed, while of the tubers a large part are rotting in the ground. A great many thousands of cattle are drowned. There is severe distress, and when the green fruits saved from the debris are consumed the suffering will be very great. In out-of-the-way places are many thousands of people who cannot be reached and relieved for some time. Destitution must continue for some months, or until the bananas grow up from the ground. Food of all kind is needed, especially rice, beans and codfish, which have been the [LY NEAR PONCE ENJOYING THE COOL OF THE EVENING atly from the hurricane, but none of its members lost their lives main support outside of fruit. Cheap cotton clothing is also needed, for thousands rushed naked from their dwellings when the gale broke in its fury." The army transport McPherson was the swiftest steamer the government had at command. It was rushed to Porto Rico under full steam with twentyfive thousand tons of food, and was followed at once with others bearing supplies of all kinds. Relief committees were formed in the large cities of the United States, and the contributions of private benevolence soon amounted to more than $100,000. The gratitude of the Porto Ricans was deep and universal. A further appeal to the American public was made by General Davis at the end of seven weeks, and it was enforced with the declaration that not less than a quarter of a million people would still be dependent on outside assistance for many weeks to come. 248 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE A COMMON SIGHT IN THE MAJORITY OF CUBAN AND PORTO RICAN TOWNS-CUSTOMARY WAY OF DELIVERING MILK THE PEOPLE: PORTO RICAN PEASANTS PORTO) RIC(O is one of the few West India islands containing a decided majority of whites. Its population has nearly trebled since 1830, and the census soon to be reported by the United States enumlerators will plrobably show almost nine hundred thousand inhabitants. One tenth are educated and cosmopolitan in type, chiefly Spaniards of the first, second or third generation, who constitute the only islanders ever wielding influence in governmental affairs. Until quite lately nearly all the foreign comomerce was monopolized Ily the aristocratic Spanish element in the coast towns. Nine tenths of the people are extremely poor. The vast majority are unable to read or write. Almost half are made up of the so-called peons, a serf class practically bound, through the workings of an antiquated economic system, to the estates on whlich they were born and bred, thoughl the last traces of legal slavery were abolished in 1873. The small land-holders and day-laborers of the country consist almost wlolly of a curious old Spanish stock more or less modified by native blood known by the collective name of Gibaros. Scattered among the rest are descendants of a few Germans, French and Scandinavians, of Moorish Jews from Majorca, and of former immigrants from the Canary islands. The colored population gets straggling reinforcements every season by negroes coming in front the drought-smitten islands of the Lesser Antilles. Including all exhibiting any admixture of African blood, it numbers 340,000, nearly all of whom reside on the coast, and who are the boatmen, laborers and fishermen of the seaports. Neither they nor any other class of Porto Ricans are sailors, the foreigncarrying trade being in alien hands altogether. In character and manners Porto Ricans do not differ from the Spanish-American type elsewhere, except, perhaps, in point of docility and greater responsiveness to new ideas. They are fond of ease, hospitable, and, as one Americanl declares, 'painfully polite." The humblest shopkeeper when lie receipts your bill will assure you, with a courtly bow, of his great pleasure in offering such a distinguished gentleman his high consideration. General Henry, the first American military governor, speaks of the islanders as "a most gentle and lovable peoplle wllo, for the greater part, are entirely worthy of our trust and confidenc(e." (Certainly they have strong claimns iupon the esteem and kindness of the great republic, because of the welcome they gave its flag and the strong faith they have manifested in its justice and generosity. As in (luba, smoking is allost universal, the only non-users of the weed in Porto Rico being the women of the higher classes. The natives smoke cigars or cigarettes, whichever comes handy, and the peasalnt women with the rest. An always mirtl -provoking sight to the American sojourners in a town is a big black aunty slowly sailing down tile middle of the street, with a horse-load of washing or something else THE PEOPLE: PORTO RICAN PEASANTS 249 in the well-poised basket on her head, puffing a huge, inky-black cigar, and wreathing her contented features with a cloud of smoke. Hardly less common than smoking is the vice of gambling. Among the peasant hobbledehoys and young men it is as much a passion as cock-fighting, and notwithlstanding the stakes are limited to merely a few cents an evening's 1)lay may easily prove disastrous to a toiler whose weekly wage is but three or four dollars, andl in most cases is earnable during only a fraction of the year. In spite of his poverty and his dirt, his condition of dependlece, his ignorance of everytlhing h)eyond the test of his five senses, the Porto Rico peasant is a fairly contented being. Hie knows no other life, fears no falmine while the breadfruit and baianas continue to grow in neighboring fields, and the yam in his few square yards of garden, and he can go almost naked, if need be, without suffering much from the cold. His life is crude rather than simple. Few live to old age. The oldest never wore a shoe, rolls of bark from the stem of the Royal palm flattened out and lashed or tied on for ends and sides. It has no windows, the single opening being the doorway. The inmates sleep on the floor, or else in low hammocks as near the door as they can be swung. In 4;;:: \d 0 ON THE WAY TO MARKET, NEAR PONCE the daytime, unless it is raining, the whole family lives out of doors, the women squatting on their heels when the rusl of domestic duties is over, and chattering together like so many parrots, and ten or a dozen naked babies paddling in the ditch-water near by. It costs nothing to keep A -0 _~.~ __children in this primeval life, and so they abound in every hut. Half the time they represent a union unblessed with churchly rites, for the cure's wedding-fee is oft beyond the peon's pocketbook, and yet it is said there are comparatively few cases of domestic infelicity. Father Sherman, after a careB ful tour of inspection, officially reported the island to present the spectacle of religion with-:;: i::out morality. Housekeeping, under the cirAt M^ ^ ~ | cumstances described, is virtually free from the trials of sweeping and dusting. There NG PORTO RICAN" is hardly any furniture, and on the walls no decorations, but instead there hang a few simple vessels for eating, generally made from calabash-nuts. Only the more uppish households display a tin cup. Cooking is ordinarily done outside by means of a sheet of iron, or a small and battered iron kettle, and the serving STREET SCENE IN A TOWN OF THE INTERIOR-COAXING A YOU nor any clothing better than the cheapest of cotton, and a very scant suit at that. His hut, only ten to twelve feet square, yet often divided into two rooms, is built with a ridge-pole and a thatch of cocoanut or palm-leaves or of light grass; a pole at each eave; and 250 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE is effected with gourd dishes and gourd spoons. The bean of the gedianda, a small bushy weed, is largely used as a substitute for coffee, and makes a pleasant drink reputed to possess value in aiding digestion and promoting health. In continuous bad weather, when cooking has to be done indoors, the hut is filled with a damp, clinging smoke, involving much discomfort and making plenty of sore eyes. The rent problem gives the peon no concern. In fact, he hardly knows what it is. From the proprietor of the estate to which he is attached he gains permiission to build his shack and cultivate a few vegetables in some out-of-the-way spot of little value for cropping. Hanging on the side or glued to the narrow ridge of a mountain steep, the tiny huts may everywhere be descried with their little garden-patches or clumps of banana-trees or plantains close at hand, and a few chickens, and possibly a lean, razor-backed with frightful pains in the chest and back, and thus, without understanding it at all, they avoid many a severe attack of congestion such as the clinate and their mode of living tend to produce. That some of them suffer for years in patient, white-faced misery from mialarial ailments, notwithstanding the Porto Rican )physician is nothing if not an ague-curer, is no longer a mystery when one remembers that the Spanish tariff (still in force, through the shameful apathy of the United States Congress) made quinine from eight to ten times more costly than in this country. When, occasionally, the peasant went to town with a chicken or a few vegetables to sell, the Spanish taxcollector had to have an "octroi," for every article of food and drink was taxed; and to the masses nothing else brought home so poignantly the injustice of Spanish rule. His purchases in town always begin, and very often end, with the bllackest and rankest of MILITARY BARRACKS IN SAN JUAN, LARGEST EDIFICE IN THE UITY, DAMAGED BY AMERICAN BOMBARDMENT OF MAY 1Z, 1898 pig or two, the latter tied by a hind leg outside the doorless hut. The Standard Oil Company long since enwrapped the West Indies in its folds, but the Gibaro is commonly too poor to buy kerosene, so lie makes a pitch-light by pouring some sweet indigenous gum into the hollow end of a dried and rolled banana sheath, the whole being tied together with strings from a cocoanut-palm. The natives, especially the old women, are expert herb doctors, and rarely resort to a physician, partly, no doult, because the latter does not care for a clientele of that kind. They are superstitiously particular not to rest under the shade of certain trees, believing the penalty would be death Porto Rican cigars, selling at three for a cent, with perhaps one or two cents' worth of rurn-and-molassessoaked plug-tobacco, sold at every tobacco-stand in strips some six inches wide and fifty yards long. The peasant buys by the cent's worth even when investing a dime. If he wants two cents' worth of plug-tobacco he goes to two different stands, and, since the tobacco-rope is cut off for him by guess,, may y dint of higgling and insistence, get two chunks that aggregate a trifle more than if he bought all in one piece. On this same principle he makes his every purchase, spending hours, it lay be, in making five cents go as far as possilble amlong five different dealers. SAN JUAN, THE CAPITAL O N THE north coast, abolt eighteen miles west of the northeast angle of Porto Rico, a sandspit of varying width begins and runs in a direction slightly north of west some nine miles. There San Antonio channel, a narrow arm of the sea, cuts it off from a small island, which, in effect, prolongs it about three miles further. Sand-spit and island together shut in upon the north the long and narrow bay of San Juan, the best and safest harbor of Porto Rico; and at the extreme western end of the islet referred to SAN JUAN, THE CAPITAL 251 is built San Juan, the capital and only fortified city. Founded by Ponce de Leon, in 1511, the town on every side, except toward the bay, is surrounded by massive stone walls from fifty to one hundred feet high, connected with formidable outworks toward the east, and adjoining the city elaborated into regular fortresses. The western front of the islet, high and precipitous, is occupied by San Juan's El Moro, completed in 1584 and commanding the harbor perfectly. This fortress is surmounted with a lighthouse, and incloses ample quarters for troops, a chapel, military bake-house, guard-roorns, and dungeons partly underground and running out under the sea. It was El Moro that formed the target for Admiral Sampson's squadron in the demonstration of May 12, 1898, a movement which, though failing of direct results, had the happiest of sequences in deflecting Cervera to Santiago, where he was quickly trapped. The fortifications of San Juan, with their various outworks, involved immense outlays of money and labor. They were built piecemeal between 1540 and 1771, and there is no other so perfect a specimen in America of a walled town, with portcullis, moats, gates and battlemenits. The fortifications are not only piecturesque, b)ut in times lpast have done good service, as. for instance, in 1.198, when the English Admiral Abercrombie was forced to retire after a siege of three days. From that time forward tlhe THE PRINC Spanish officers boasted not a little of the impregnability of the defenses here. The streets, regularly laid off and paved with flagstones laid on a hard clay soil almost like rock, are wider than in the older parts of Havana, but the sidewalks are so narrow as in places to accommodate but one person. This, however, is no special inconvenience, as the streets-strange to say for a Spanish city-have long been kept scrupulously clean by a daily hand-sweeping, which permits them to be used by vehicles and pedestrians alike. There is no sewerage system. However, the slope toward the bay makes the natural drainage almost perfect, and this will simplify the sewering problem very much. The trade-winds blow strong and fresh wherever they can get in over or through the walls of the city, and a stream of sea-water pours continually through the harbor; and from these additional considerations one might expect San Juan to prove exceptionally healthful. That it was not so under the Spanish regime (though better than Havana or Santiago) was due to its terrible crowding and wretched sanitation. With a population of twenty-four thousand (not counting the suburbs, with seven or eight thousand more), the town is so small that one can walk all over it in an hour. The houses are closely and compactly built of brick, stuccoed on the outside and painted in a variety of colors. About half of them are of two stories, and a few of three. The upper floors are occupied by the owners, or at least the better-off classes, while the ground floor is universally given up to the poor, among whom in all the towns negroes preponderate; but whether black or white, they will be found herding, a whole family of them, in one small room with a flimsy partition. On the ground floor lives the bulk of the population, which, until IPAL BUINESS STREET IN THE CITY OF SAN JUAN JIPAL BUSINESS STREET IN THE CITY OF SAN JUAN the Americans came, dwelt in the midst of reeking filth and disgusting smells, and is still overrun with vermin. San Juan never had a waterworks system. The people depend on rain-water caught on the flat roof, and stored in a cistern occupying the major part of the tiny patio, or inner court around which each house is built, and in close proximity to the outhouse. The risk of contaminating water could hardly be greater, and in dry seasons more or less of the cisterns are sure to give out. To an American the style of building houses without chimneys seems odd, while the entire absence of front yards-all the houses being flush with the street -and the almost entire absence of shrubbery or any other form of Nature's cherished green, give the place an uninviting aspect. The two-storied buildings all have balconies projecting over the streets, 252 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE whose narrowness and shadows are increased by this much, as yet more are the darkness and the foulness of the poorly ventilated, one-windowed rooms on the street-level. But there is no lack of life and gaiety. On these balconies the well-off families spend their evenings, and in favoring weather half their days, chatting together and exchanging greetings with passing acquaintances below. There is a plaza for public resort and promenade in the heart of the city, and another on the outskirts, the latter containing a in full view. Interments are chiefly made in cells honeycombing a vast mortuary rock wall, in the same Spanish fashion as in Paco cemetery near Manila, described on page 104. The Governor-General's palace, with its three wings, is about as large as the White House at Washington. It is of three stories, has a garden filled with beautiful flowers, and the outlook from its windows upon the ocean and harbor is magnificent. Its large parlors and elegant furnishings have made it a very fine establislhment for the American military governor since. October 18, 1898, the official date of Spain's retiracy from:|l-i': l Porto Rico. The Governor-...i......General also had a delightful -ME- i6;;w - suburban residence at Rio..' ij:'ii? i Piedras, where some of the richer merchants live, while;: 0: others have their homes at.'. '::' "'::.;' Catano, on the south shore of -'::.::;';;.:the bay, or at Bayamon, still further in the country in the same direction. Three wellguarded bridges over the San Antonio channel (see page 250), ferries across the bay and street-cars to Rio Piedras and Bayamonn afford easy communication with the surrounding country. There are no factories in San Juan other than of cigars, here a small industry compared with its status in Havana. Besides the archbishop's palace there are two colleges, hospitals, insane asylum, a fine cathedral and seven other churches. In one of these last is an image of the special patroness of Porto Rico, Nuestra Senora de los Remedios, arrayed in a fifteen-hundred-dollar cloak, and decked with twenty thousand dollars' worth of jewels, if report be true. THE COURT-HOUSE, SAN JUAN handsome statue of Columbus, and not far away a grand theater with a seating capacity of nearly five tlousand, and all its appointments no less elegant than ample. There are casinos (club-houses) also, and splendid cafes and restaurants. San Juan's principal cemetery is situated directly beneath the high northern wall, where the sound of the ocean swells continually and in places it stretches PONCE AND MAYAGUEZ: SOME ODD SIGHTS P(NCE, on a strip of plain devoted to sugar-raising, lies two miles back front the sea on the south coast, somewhat nearer the west than the east. There is an irrepressible conflict among writers as to which contains the greater population, Ponce or San Juan. Strictly speaking, the palln belongs to San Juan, as Ponce in itself has not exceeding eighteen thousand people; but when its bustling port of Playa and two other suburbs in close proximity are included, Ponce slightly outclasses San Juan. All agree that the southern and far more modern town is the most progressive and American-like place on the island. The hearty welcome which the invading army under General Miles received from even the city officials was a pleasant surprise to the people of the United States, and should not be forgotten. Except for the outskirts, which shelter the poor, Ponce is well built, with mnany brick houses, streets well macadamized, wider sidewalks than in San Juan, a plaza which is a park of real beauty, hospitals, schools, public library, gas-works, electric-lighting and ice-plants, the best hotels and cafes in Porto Rico, an excellent waterworks system, a beautiful little theater, of which the inhabitants are quite proud, and several churches. PONCE AND MA YAGUEZ: SOME ODD SIGHTS 253 Among the last mentioned is the Episcopal church, which until lately was the only Protestant place of worship on the island. Ponce is considered one of the most healthful towns of Porto Rico. At present the second in colmmercial ilmportance, it bids fair to become in a few years the first. Mayaguez, four miles from the sea, on the west coast, and farther off the principlal tourist routes, is a pretty town with towering and graceful ceila-trees rising behind white-porticoed houses and masses of towering vines everywhere. It has broader streets and wider pavements than either San Juan or Ponce, a street-car line to its port, a partially constructed steel wharf-the only wharf, incredible as it may seem, that any Porto Rican seaport can boast-and a fine central plaza with another Columbus statue. Its population of twelve thousand contains a larger prestige. It is as old as San Juan. Coamo, the seat of locally famous hot springs, was the only town on the military road between San Juan and Ponce that was not seriously damaged in the hurricane of August 8, 1899. Cayey, situated in the midst of a noted tobacco region, turns out the finest cigars made on the island. It is a half-way point on the military road just mentioned, is surrounded with beautiful scenery, and stands 2,250 feet above sea-level. Other towns (or large villages) at high elevations and, like (ayey, patronized as health resorts are Aybonito, very nearly3,000 feet above sea-level; Adjuntas,over 2,400; Lares, over 1,600; and Utuado, nearly 1,500 feet. Most Porto Rico milkmen have the samle prinitive method of delivering as their fellow-dealers in Cuba, which is by driving the cows from door to door. Here they milk into wine-bottles, and are more provokingly 'S.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~6 I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Si '::~ ~ 7: MENDEZ VIGO STREET, MAYAGUEZ percentage of whites and a smaller contingent of ragged and dirty poverty than any other considerable place on the island; and it is also more of a manufacturing-point,with four large coffee-mills and a tannery of good size in the lead. It likewise has the best ice and electric-light plant, the largest and, architecturally, the finest market-place, a good and abundant supply of water brought from a mountain torrent three miles away, and a pretty little park. Its public buildings include an elegant little opera-house. The towns of San Juan, Ponce and Mayaguez are the three great trade centers of Porto Rico. Of the other and minor seaports the principal are Guayama, Guanica, Aguadilla and Arecibo, all shown, with others, on our map. San German, near the southwest angle of the island, is the interior town of greatest slow than in Havana. Other milkmen carry their milk-cans on their heads, removing the great vessel and ladling out the milk at each customer's door. Peddlers of food, fruit, vegetables and confections go through the streets, with their loads heaped on boards or shallow trays nearly or quite five feet long and balanced to a nicety, and praise their goods, seldom more than two or three minutes at a time without attracting a customer. A hoky-poky wagon may be seen daily in San Juan and Ponce, followed by interested urchins representing all classes of society. A merry-go-round is another recent novelty that has been well received by the Porto Rican small boy of superior means. Lumbering ox-carts do the heavy hauling of the island, both in city and country. The oxen are a quick-stepping superior breed, with long, 254 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE wide-spreading horns. The native driver does not fulfill the scriptural definition of a merciful man, for he keeps prodding his beast, on general principles, with a sharp steel-pointed goad until the blood shows the vender on top; a pair of hogs weighing one hundred and fifty pounds apiece in two great baskets, one on each side; and a mountain almost of baled grassthese, with others equally grotesque and to the pony oppressive, are common sights. Entire families may be seen coming to town on a single pony, the man astraddle, the wife seated behind him, and,,.',~four or five children carried in baskets slung at the two sides. Trunks, furniture and basl~ ejust about everytghing else are th. transheported along and over the mountain steeps, with comiparative celerity and no accidents, upon the backs of these patient and intelligent little animials. The saddle in common use is unique. The Porto Rican lays thick pads upon his pony's back, and on each side straps a little saddlebasket about eighteen inches square and six inches thick. When seated his knees reach forward to the pony's neck and he has the comfort of a cushioned chair. Perhaps no easier method of horseback exer NEW THEATER BUILDING, MAYAGUEZ in twenty different spots. No more incomprel order was issued by "those queer American General H-enry's forbidding the use of the points. The natives obeyed it in the towns c by the Americans, but nowhere else. Thle method of:iiffi yoking up steers is peculiar,...f:.i. the yoke resting on the an-... imal's neck just back of the horns, to which it is tied by ropes or by thongs of leather. The Americans criticize it as cruel, but this the Porto Rican driver denies, and pro- -l tests the steer can put forthlI Sf; his strength to better advantage this way. The Porto Rican ponies are a treasure-tough and surprisingly strong for their diminutive size, usually gentie, in gait raekers by heredity and as easy as a rockingchair. For climbing steep mountain trails there is no fancy-bred horse on earth that can touch them in point of endurance or sure-footedness. The pacd little creatures bring in from the country to t markets astonish the new-comer. Oranges in i: round panniers, three hundred pounds weig A PORTO RICO HOKY-POKY MAN This representative grouping was photographed by Molina, Ponce is these cise was ever devised. Practically all the mail-carriers he town of Porto Rico are natives, who make their daily or trimmense weekly trips on ponies, the mail in tin boxes strapped:ht, and one on each side of the little creature. PORTO RICAN INDUSTRIES: RAILROADS 255 TREASURES OF A CATTLE-FARM IN PORTO RICO, FINE STOCK OF ANDALUSIAN BREED NOT UNLIKE THE JERSEY, BUT LARGER P'ORTO RICAN INDUSTRIES: RAILROADS P O)TO( RII(C() is a strictly agricultural country, witl al)solutely no developed mining interests anld no impnortant mallufactures. Sugar-cane monopolizes the coast-lands and the valleys, tolacco and coffee dividing letween them practically all the remainder of the island not given over to bananafields, garden-patcles and( cattle-ranches. Almlost no forests remain, and the scarcity of tiimber is seriously felt. In most places half a cord of common fire-wood costs at least a dollar and a half. Almost everywhere land tenure and oullndaries are in the confused state usual in Spanish colonies. Not less than half the islandi is in the hands of the large proprietors, some of whom are alsentee landlords in Spain and France. Fruit-raising, which should be a highly profitable business, has thus far received almost no attention, h)ut such exlport trade as there is in this line is chiefly from Mayaguez to the ITnited States. Farming lands are held at high prices all over Porto Rico, ranging, in the money of the island, from $75 to $200 an acre. lPorto Rico's coffee crop brings in fully three times the money that tJie sugar crop does, though measured by mere weight these conditions are reversed. The coffee-llant was introduced from the French island of Martinique (see mapl on page 241) in 1722, and the product now reaches 34,000,000 pounds annually. It tlhrives best at a thlousand to eighteen hundred feet above sea-level, but does well hundreds of feet below and above that. The native planter generally builds his comfortable home on a rounded knob as near the road or some well-used trail as he can get. His drying-yard is the important thing for him, just as the mill is to the sugar-planter or drying-sheds to the tobacco-raiser. The illustration on page 241 shows a yard more than unusually elaborate, as the coffeecloths covered with drying coffee are commonly subject to more or less shifting about on the grass sward. The sugar output amounts to about 140,000,000 pounds annually, besides over 30,000,000 pounds of molasses, also valuable by-products in the form of rum and alcohol. The rum is nearly all consumed by the native population, in large part as medicine, and when newly made it sells as low as twenty-five cents a gallon. The farming side of the sugar business has 256 PORTO RICO, THE FAITHFUL ISLE undergone great improvements of late years; but, notwithstanding the system of sugar-centrals was introduced about 1870, and tramways have been laid on some of the larger estates for hauling the cane to mill, the manufacturing side is far behind the age. Machinery of the crudest description is still used in out-of-the-way places, the best being more or less antiquated, a fact largely attributable to Spain's almost prohilitory tariff on this class of imports. Were it not for at least double the customary Louisiana crop to the acre the great majority of Porto Rican sugarplanters must years ago have gone to the wall. Fertilizers are never used, despite striking object-lessons here and there in pieces of ground that contract cultivators during the last sixty years have cropped almost into worthlessness. The peons are found almost wholly on the sugar estates, being the direct footing, much less raise a crop there. The curing is done in long, open sheds, where the tobacco is raised, and often it is very imperfectly accompllished, owing to the dampness of the air, for the variations in which scanty or no allowance is made. There is inexcusable wastefulness at every point. The cattle-farms of Porto Rico supply not only the town markets throughout the island, but those of the Danish and perhaps some other islands to the eastward. American investigators report very favorably on this industry, and believe it susceptible of large development. There is hardly a barn on the island, and stock of all kinds feed themselves the year round. Fences of barbed wire alound, as also prickly hedges of wild pineapples, capable of turning the most breachy herd. Every tract is fenced. The very hogs are penned or tethered to stakes. The cost of transportation terribly handicaps all productive industry. More and better roads are a crying need. As to railways, it a)ppears that nmany years ago a concession was oranted to a French company tobuild a narrow-gage, singleand passing through all the chief towns, should belt the island and then return to the startingpoint. The total length was over three hundred miles, and the price [CAN TOWNS agreed on approximated $30,000 a mile. Only one hundred and seven miles were ever laid, and these not in one stretch, but in four detached pieces of road where construction was the lighest and most inexpensive. Of street railways there are two suburban lines at San Juan and the four-mile track at Mayaguez. The telegraph system of the island has been entirely reorganized and almost wholly re-equipped, under the management of an officer of the United States Signal Corps, one of whose achievements during (eneral Miles' advance was to make connection with (luayama by utilizing five miles of the farmers' barb-wire fences. There are now eight hundred and thirty miles of telegraph. A cable lands at San Juan and another at Ponce, communicating with other West India islands, and thence to Europe, South America and the United States. The toll to New York is $1.17 a word. MEAT-DELIVERY WAGON OF CUBAN AND PORTO R1 successors of slave labor, which is said to have never exceeded twenty per cent of the industrial force of the island. They labor from dawn to dark, and so do the peasantry of all classes-when they labor at all. The tobacco crop each season is no less than 8,000,000 pounds, of which but one fourth is exported, the remainder being either consumed or worked up into cigars or cigarettes, mostly by crude and often disgusting methods, on the island, where it constitutes emphatically the poor man's crop. Part of it is raised by the small farmers, but much more in diminutive patches by the peasantry, who, living from hand to mouth, are obliged to mortgage the crop beforehand to the shopkeepers who furnish them supplies. Many tobacco-fields are on hillsides so steep the traveler wonders how the workers, looking like ants, that he sees slowly creeping up them, manage to keep their I\ i\\\^.~~, lI:;7/,I[ Ii,I- -t --- PHILI NE razz-,,,~~~~~~~~~~i j; t Ir J WE APAN aersus e - ii.g Ii~ i In Luzonl and Mindanao names in this type: xOHONS indicate Spanish subdivisions into provinces. SCALE OF MILES I510 20.30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Copyrig;ht, 1899, by The Crowell & Kirkpatrick Co. I I I B A S If E E us~~~~~\ *sw -. -L " —, — u.S. |BOUN, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ J*-.^^JSI^ DA RIY;: ( BY PEACE TRE BITN rANfj~~: II: I~~~~~~~~~~~~ _ D ----- - _, i^. —J7.,.. _C! t! BATAN ISLAADUjYAN / s^^iyj. CC A L AL | i,,..:;1 ___./- ^ | CALAYAN),'i Q A N/ iAMIGMl^ ^ —5T1^~^~ ^A """" i '- ~"U, --- ATYL --.. —i4 -- -- _ - i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ < * I I i i -/-^ / / ^-^ I '. -./ 1 4 1' ) z I; I~ I ( I I I I I I I I I I I 0 0 C 2 0 XI < a U) MANILA BAY Showing Dewey's Line of Advance and Battle Movements. - American Vessels = Spanish Vessels SCALE OF MILRS. 0 1 23 3 4 51 1 6 +t - g. r I I I II i i I lIls 0 I in II*3; "a: A: - Om I +i I Jo, ll 5 --- -- - -- - - tt ----, SEAHORSE g OR ROUTH BANK l l.St /Pda: I. 1, I ).) "IA s:! lli i I, I, I I I 1" * -'.'?STBl BATAHA /_ I _~~~~~~~~ "; '-_ f. ^ * v / __ At (I L lu i~~~ *V S JB i: /// Alli -; / __ _~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~l _ ___!.^..... i /f MAP FOP CUBAI Its Provinces, Rlailroads, Cities, Towns, Harbors, Bays, Etc. ALSO SOUTHERN FLORIDA AND NEIGHBORING ISLANDS OF THE WEST INDIES. Statute Miles (Copyllrighllt, 1897, Mast, Crowell and Kirkpatricok. 0 QC )k y g,;7~~~~~- - d-T~_,~~m'P;Z9 _1,;~==-="II ^$^i~ I - _ 4 -- ' s - s ~ E -:-= I == a de Pablo Q os Ramos l iruciiada 'a VElE 77-% I Jab Jra en~teb ~. ^C nli AP0 Bagazar Cien; -Melon dondron.voi.is1 AO./^ ^ 17 0 ) t IS. \ L. azata -^? \ ^0.~~~1Xuna -z c, A\" [- Xenon II i* ~ Guayaanes IV% JucaroV 0 il Placer de Jagua Placer de Jagua V JL. S. Caeba~ni Ermito vie,Mulato^ S ertientes S-Geronimo V.1car L 7,Xsntte. i A/ -4 I Pla i Iaz laP z > 7 Megan s, I _.. I, //.' ira Pedro ^ y..1 uailria AS( $UgI OC;f Il G tuaiu II O.r!^K/..(~~~~~~~~~ (\I 4 -~~ ~ ~ I:___._.I..l____.._l_ —_-x-;L 17 8i~18 19 20 21 ______ IQ I eZDD / Ir He 4, w w - - = e= X i -- > — 1,, [ ISr /I y// S 0J > f.V I 0o, v -A 0 S) Elb c \ ^,,\. Jab *teu * _ \ 5(l,", 1 -- ~,3t~f~" Treoro aaap lufluap r0 1 A lp Bagazar C ient mI / 'e";~I~ r~'3 cia ti uanJ 1 C | r to^, - I^(ranjo ( Guil ude oub jPoerillc Bi?4de kj I i — 5 {L. ibria 0(tO{ / ) W g (tttGuayacc yon l ertrud nbaf i tipe/t ) cow?TJC~09 A E:0 ^R X L. S. teban I Emito 44,Mulatot\. 1Se} r/ientes-4S,!- Ge'ionlimo t anaj a v uairtaj, -~* I-;^ Placer de Jagua "I Placs r 11 Ja 'I Placer deJas -. \~~~ ----~- / C - si) nw14 I 1> icI 9.. ePlai, I la Paz I M — X AS N\ Copyright, 1897, I)) Mast;, Crowell auda Kirkpatrictk. 0 i PF w — y b X ^' '^ ~^~~~j/ I I -'I n - 0 4^i,1q -- - -- ' aduo Il,-m-\I fo^o~ A E4 0 IDm V A p TesoroHus Zeloro fuespedo Con 0 L8 Abreu8dlA, 4 ~t."o ~ &iba^ AO P Las e Bagazar 0 L_ Clenlfu /.ca [or rg I vse " '4 S. A n toio; g-pia & >d d ) _t(tr i 1 ^/I an s~ Cascol R ASr -4 -,yI rl ':'-l \X\;-t.,-j I - I 'as X P SMI. a A~3 - i PUBLISHED BY -- MAST, CROWELL & KIRKPATRICK, NEW YORK and CHICAGOO. I ~T T 1 15 16 17 4~ 18 19 20 21 30 22 iy -~k ~ I " 31 r norena LaS)JUMAGUA8 ja de Pablo Quemado de los Ranos los auine4 J; 'I Huespedo Cor Los Abreus -o Siba A P. L Bagazar C Cienfi 'to ni oIUS Sf rihtcl p ~ le ~:i Inl^^^..L? Gertrudzo * 1^ r. IX(IroP ^ /^ i O > Z3, unq - - = N- ^ - ". -.-,, _ Plac,L- "? Placer de Jagus? at'ornim?,iollim IC pla', t )rl Pt 7 — n i., s.l I-~ 7 Mcganas., I ///4 i'rt i I I I, r-^ I \\\ ^te. I Sr PUBLISHED BY MAST, CROWELL & KIRKPATRICK, /,ma NEW YORK and CHICAGO. \1'' N Sag, ' nao Ia _llMi;'7-^ a- AC O i — Al i - I i.^_.-; --- —- ^\~ Ie f Iirf ( 4~1 16 17 I m I -1 I m I m I 0 m I I I I m m m m I m I I m I I