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JOURNAL OF TRAVELS-
FROM
st losºpis To on Egon
WITII
OBSERVATIONS OF THAT COUNTRY,
TOGETHER WITH
*** *****Nº, º ºs
ITS AGRICULTURAL INTERESTS,
AND
<> isuanti Edesceneſinºgiºn
OF
|TS (GOLD) ||N|ES,
--~~~~~~~~~~---------
By RII, Ey Root,
G-ALESBURG :
* A Z ETTE E R A ND IN T E L L I g E N C E R P R INTs.
1850.
-
- - -
- |
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EXPLANATORY NOTE.
The Author of the present work has adopted a new method
of punctuation, and, in certain cases, of spelling. He discards
entirely the colon and the semi-colon, Modern readers passing
along with great rapidity, and the principal use of these points
being to mark the length of time the voice is to be suspended,
the Author is of opinion that they may with propriety disappear
from our language. Accordingly he has adjusted the following
work to suit those yiews, and as the reader advances, his atten-
tion will naturally be directed to that subject, by which means
he will be enabled to judge of the propriety or impropriety of
this adjustment of the pauses in the language.
THE PRINTER

ADWERTISEMENT,
As the advantages for knowing the pronunciation of some of the words that occur
in the following work are limited amongst most eastern readers, it may not be im:
proper here to give some explanation by way of change in their orthography.
The name of the Willamette, a river in the west valley of Oregon, is changd to
Will-am-et, with the accent on the second syllable. A tributary of the Willamet
river, with the several names of Quality, Tualiton, and Troliton, is more familiarly
calld Twality. Also another, which flows from Mt. Jefferson, by some calld Santa
Anna, is more properly calld San-ty-am.
Sanor Saint Joaquin in California, is pronouncil Saint Wau-keen, with the accent
on the second syllable. Stanislaus, a tributary of the St. Wau-keen, is often impro-
perly calld Spanish Slough, Juba river, a tributary of the Sacramento, is now calld
Yu-bar river. The old name of Rio de Plumas, is familiarly known by the name of
Feather river. Mereposa is divided into four syllables, with the half accent on Mer,
and the full accent on Po. The above definitions may in some degree, help the read:
er to the proper pronunciation of some words as used in California.

JOURNAL.
-º-º-º-º-º-º-o-º-o-º-º-
CHAPTER I.
Journey from home–Trip down the Mississippi and up the Missouri River to St.
Josephs.
I LEFT home in Knox county, Illinois, the 3d day of April,
1848, for Woodstock in Fulton county, a distance of about 20
miles, where I staid one day with my eldest daughter. I then
started for the Mississippi river, to Nauvoo, a Mormontown, by
the way of La Harp, a distance of fifty miles, over which route
most of the way to La Harp is as handsome prairie as I have
seen in the State. I visited the Temple at Nauvoo, with the
expectation of seeing a beautiful edifice, as the Mormons would
have it to appear, that the glory of the latter Temple is to exceed
that of the former.
It is true that on approaching the Temple" the visitor beholds
something exquisite in its outward appearance, though not more
so than many other buildings in America, but on visiting its in-
ner scenery, the visitor is not arousd by anything sublime, curi-
ous or tasteful. The inner arrangements may be in accordance
with their plans of order and church government, yet the design
and workmanship are of an ordinary appearance. But the
building is fast going to decay, and the town is vacated of three
fourths of its inhabitants. -
* It has since been burnt.

6 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
From this place I passd down the river to Quincy, where f
stopd with a design to visit my youngest daughter of sixteen
years of age, who is attending school at the Mission Institute,
about two miles east of Quincy. The school at this place was
establishd for the purpose of promoting the cause of Christ by
preparing youth for the missionary field, though other scholars
who do not wish to enter upon missionary labors are sometimes
admitted.
From Quincy I went to St. Louis for the purpose of obtain-
ing a boat to go to St. Josephs on the Missouri river, where
most of the emigrants meet before leaving the United States for
Oregon. On ascending the Missouri river from its confluence
with the Mississippi to Weston, a town twenty-five miles by
land below St. Josephs, no pleasantvillages are seen except Jef-
ferson City, the capital of the State of Missouri. This town
shows something of the beauties of art, with a good levee for the
lading and unlading of goods. The state house is worthy of
the most notice of the traveler. It is large and elegant, and
made of hewn stone.
To the geologist the Missouri river presents a scene of specu-
lation. Its waters are always muddy, and still more so at high
stages of the river. To the indifferent observer it may appear
that the raw edges of its banks, by their crumbling off at times
of high water, furnish material for its turbid appearance at all
times. It is true that in times of high water its muddy look is
greatly increased, but this is not all that is to be considered.
The river has but small depth of water most of the time, and
this passes over an argilaceous bottom, with sufficient force to
keep it constantly agitated. There is also a mixture of exceed-
ingly fine sand spread over its bottom, and the whole together is
constantly agitated by the motion of its waters. The bed of the
stream from its union with the Mississippi to St. Josephs, is at
least one hundred feet below the high prairie of the country
around it. The question naturally arises as to the length of
time required to excavate such a channel through a country so
vast in extent as the Missouri traverses with all its tributaries,
considering the amount of alluvium carried outward into the
ocean from age to age, whilst the bed of the river is supplied in

Journal, or TRAVELS. 7
part from the high countries of its tributaries, and thus render-
ing the work of degradation exceedingly slow. Yet notwith-
standing the amount of soil received from year to year from
above, that river carries outward into the ocean more than it re-
ceives, and thereby causes a lowering of its bed, though not
visible for ages, yet gradually and slowly has it worn away the
earth to its present condition. The geologist has no certain
means of ascertaining with certainty the amount of degradation
from year to year, and must leave the subject, sublime as it is, to
the wild fancies of imagination.
-ººººº-
CHAPTER II.
St. Josephs—The Indian country lying west of the River—Formation of the Pºi-
rie-Scouring material of the Soil–Its general appearance as far west as the South
Pass, or dividing ridge.
St. Josephs is a new tewn on the Missouri river, in latitude
of about 34 deg 45 min, north, with about 1800 inhabitants,
which five years ago was a field of hemp. The town has 18
stores, 3 drug stores, 9 groceries, 6 tailor shops, 8 blacksmith
shops, 2 tin shops, 3 taverns, 3 boarding houses, 1 steam and 1
water flouring mill, and 2 steam saw mills. Among its inhab-
itants are 15 lawyers, 11 doctors, 2 silversmiths and 2 gun-
smiths. -
The town is mostly located on a plat of ground with suit-
cient descent for drainage, contiguous to the bluffs on the north,
on which it is partly built. On this bluff stands the court house
of Buchanan county, where the spectator can overlook the town.
The river from this point is seen but a short distance either
up or down, in consequence of its meandering course, so that it
is soon lost sight of behind the bluffs.
I left St. Josephs for the Indian country lying west of the
Missouri river, through which I was to pass on my way to Ore-
gon, with a train of emigrants for that place, on the 25th of

S JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
April, 1848, with a view of reaching Oregon before the incle-
mencies of winter should overtake me, under as favorable aus-
pices as the nature of the case would allow. -
The Indian country is a wild, uncultivated tract, and almost
destitute of inhabitants. It has, however, a few scattering tribes
of Indians, though few indeed and far between. This country
is what is calld a prairie country or natural meadow, with very
little timber except along the water-courses. It is a continua-
tion of the great valley of the Mississippi westward along the
tributaries to the Rocky mountains, where the waters of the con-
tinent divide and run westward into the Pacific ocean.
A prairie may be an alluvial country, and it may be tertiary.
The one here spoken of is alluvial. At a remote period, the
timber and loose material of the country, as well as all prairie
districts, were fired by its inhabitants or by lightning, and this
continued for ages will destroy the timber and leave its soil to
be clothd only by the grasses, an inferior but oftentimes resplen-
dent robe.
The traveler soon after leaving St. Josephs, westward sees
prairie in all stages of formation, from the dense forest to an
entire prairie. This, with the dense forests of young timber
eastward, where the white man has forbidden the practice of
firing prairies, seems to be a convincing proof of the aforemen-
tioned mode of prairie formation.
It has been noticed in the State of Illinois, and some other
places, where the plowman is permitted to glide his plow
smoothly over the beautiful landscape, that there is an exceed-
ingly fine scouring material lying near the surface of the soil,
so that steel mold boards, on a very short use of them, are seen
to present a polishd surface, on drawing them from the soil–
Ages of constant burning of the prairie grasses must necessarily
produce a great amount of very fine coal dust and ashes, which,
by the beating rains from year to year, would cause it to mingle
with the earth to the depth of several inches. Such is the pro-
bable cause of the scouring material of these plains.
On passing over the country from St. Josephs to the dividing
ridge of the continent, along the emigrant route to Oregon, the
traveler accustomd only to fertile districts, is greatly surprised at

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 9
finding so great a portion of the continent an almost barren
waste. From St. Josephs to the Platt river, a distance of 250
miles, is most of the way a country of soil and fertility.
On arriving at the Platt river, a beautifully flat country pre-
sents itself, where nature, it would seem, has but an easy task
to burden the ground with excessive vegetation, but behold a
country of extensive bottom lands, of feeble soil much of the
way, and still more feeble at the distance, among the bluffs and
rolling country.
Soon after our arrival at Platt, one day while sitting on its
banks watching our cattle, I could but reflect on the situation of
the country, the emigrant and his journey to Oregon, which 1
have here expressd in the following form.
One evening at twilight, whilst sitting to view,
On the banks of the Platt, to me 'twas quite new,
Nor sadden or lonely, as one in despair
Sees the beasts of the forest just mergd from their lair,
Butcheerful and tranquil, I cast my eyes o'er
The wide-spreading Platt, where Ine'er roamd before.
Its banks are all plat, and its islands are flat,
Its waters are tranquil, and turbid at that.
Protrusion of sandbars are seen all along,
To hinder the boatman–here's nought of his song.
Still anxious for knowledge, I turnd me around,
And saw at short distance what coverd the ground.
Twere wagons, full many, an Oregon train,
who'd left their loyd homes, ne'er to see them again.
If you ask what their hearts speak whilst moving along,
I fear they will mingle a tear with their song,
Whilst telling the story of wandering so far,
With their dear earthly all in their pockets and car.
The parent is anxious for his loving child,
The dame is more careless, less cautious and mild,
The lad cares for little, if father is near,
Of wars or of bloodshed—he'll shrink to the rear.
Then who shall watch over, and daily provide
For this onward band, which so near are allidº
'Tis. He who makes water spring out of the rock,
Abundance shall follow—He cares for His flock.
Then onward, brave pilgrims, your Canaan is near,
You'll soon cross the Jordan cascades with heartsfull of cheer,
On advancing up the Platt a distance of about 445 miles to
Sweet Water, one of its tributaries, and near to the dividing

10 Journ AL OF TRAVELS.
point, the country becomes more barren all around, being more
within that portion of the continent where the sun's influences
are not hindered by rains, or even dews, for a great portion of
the year. Here, no soil is formd by the decomposition of veg.
etable or animal matter, for none exists with which to make
soil except the wild sage and a few other useless shrubs. /
Few animals of any kind dwell here, for want of the means
of sustaining life. It may justly be calld a desert country. It
should, however, be remarkd that within the distance from Platt
to Sweet Water, nearly all the present buffalo range is com-
prisd, and if the country is a barren waste, how do they receive
their support? Along the bottom lands of the Platt and its
tributaries, are seen occasional tracts coverd with grass, but these
are few compard with the great extent of country over which
the buffalo is obliga to ramble for his support. At one season
of the year he is seen on Platt and at another on Sweet Water,
a distance of more than four hundred miles in extent.
Along the country through which the Sweet Water flows, is
seen a range of mountains, calld the Sweet Water range, coverd
mostly with a dense forest. On our right are ranges of granite
rock of less hight, occasionally divided by intervening valleys.
These rocks are naked, having no vegetation upon them except
in some of their crevices, where a few vegetables have found a
scanty foothold. Within 50 miles of the dividing ridge, these
ranges of mountains lower down to an undulating plain, with-
out soil or vegetation, except wild sage, so common on these
deserts.
-º-
CHAPTER III.
The Indians east of the Rocky Mountains, their migratory habits, &c.—The Ameri-
can Fur Company and its shipments–Fort Larimie and location-Saline quality
in the earth and the waters of Platt and its tributaries—Independence rock—Dar-
ing deed of one of our company.
Twº Nºry-Five miles west of St. Josephs, on the emigrant
route, is a school for Indians, calld Iowa and Sack Mission

Journ AL OF TRAVELS. 11
Boarding School. It is conducted by a Mr. S. M. Ervin and
H. W. Hamilton. During our stay of two or three days at that
place, I visited Mr. Ervin at his school-house and dwelling, with
a pleasing reception as a stranger, and was shown to the several
apartments of the house. It is a building 106 feet in length by
about 40 in width, with a basement for cooking and dining-
rooms. The other two stories are occupied as school-room,
lodging-rooms and dwelling for the superintendent, and in one
apartment is a library and printing press. Mr. Ervin pointed
me to his scholars, at this time numbering only 26, consisting
mostly of girls from ten to twelve years of age, dressd in Amer-
ican costume. These appeard well, and seemd to be a proof
that the wild man of the desert is susceptible of cultivation.
Unhappily, however, I was informd by a person living there,
it is with difficulty youth are persuaded to tarry long enough
at the school to acquire any valuable education.
Whilst staying at that place, Mr. Ervin came into our camp
and preachd a sermon to the emigrants, and whilst there he pub-
licly declard that we should pass no nation of Indians on our
route to Oregon more vicious than those of that place. We
however met with no difficulty nor lost any property by them,
though one of them had the boldness to say to one of the emi-
grants—
“Me good to steal horses!”
To which the emigrant replied—
“You must not steal our horses.”
The Indian still farther announced–
“Ah, me good to steal horse.”
The Indians at this place receive a very good support in con-
sequence of the large amount of land under cultivation by the
care and superintendence of the mission.
Those Indians located at Grand Island, calld the Pawnee
tribe, are at present a feeble race, liable to be driven about by
the Sioux at all times. They are poor, and under the necessity
of stealing what buffalo meat and robes they need for their sup-
port, and whenever they are discoverd by a band of Sioux rang-
ers, they are obliga to flee for their safety to some other place.
Their pressing necessity for food and clothing makes them more

12 JOURNAL OF TRAVELs.
inclind to trouble the emigrant trains than they otherwise would,
and whenever they meet with a train that is feeble in numbers,
they fall on them and plunder their food and clothing.
The day before we arrivá at Grand Island, a band of Sioux
rangers discoverd some Pawnees on the banks of the Platt, dry-
ing and preparing buffalo meat for their winter's stock of provi-
sions. They enterd their camp and drove them away so sud-
denly, that in their wild flight they were obliga to throw away
robes and other property, which was strewd along the road 15
or 20 miles' distance. By this circumstance we passd the Paw-
nees without seeing an individual Indian.
The Sioux are probably the strongest nation east of the South
Pass. They range from Fort Larimie eastward to the Missouri
river. Near Ash Hollow on the Platt, we passd two bands of
them not many miles distant from each other, consisting of 40
or 50 lodges in each. Their lodges are made by setting up
small poles in a comical form and covering them with buffalo
skins. Some of them are quite large, requiring from 10 to 15
buffalo skins to inclose them. In the center of these their fires
are built. The smoke issues at the top of this conical-shapd
edifice, through which a small opening is left for that purpose.
Around these fires whilst in their lodges, the Indians sit or re-
cline upon the ground, without seats of any kind, or anything
at all, except sometimes flag matresses or the pelts of some ani-
mals. - - -
When they wish to prepare for the reception of company of
a public nature, they form a semi-circle on the ground with their
chiefs or heads of bands in the center of the arch of the half-
circle, which renders them conspicuous to all. On our approach
to the first of these bands, we found them seated in a semi-cir-
cular form, with their two chiefs, Whirlwind and Badwoon, in
the center of this arch, with the American flag erected within
and in front of the chiefs, ready to receive us, having been ap-
prisd of our coming severaldays beforehand by an Indian trader
by the name of Richards, who had traveld with us much of the
way from St. Josephs to that place. He having gone ahead,
arrivá at the band several days before us, informing them that
we were coming and advising them to peace, with the expecta-

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 13
tion of receiving a gift from us as indicative of friendship. Ac-
cordingly they spread robes and blankets on the ground within
the half-circle, upon which the emigrants bestowd their gifts of
flour, corn meal, beans, bacon, and every such thing, as they
pleasd to give. While in the act of doing this, occasional ac-
clamations were heard from the red audience, especially when a
larger panful of flour than common was presented.
After our company had ceasd to present their gifts, two or
three men started from the circle to make a distribution of the
gift, which was bestowd upon the heads of families. This was
an amusing sight. Some would present a dish to receive their
gift, others the corner of a blanket, and others again would hold
out the skirt of an old filthy coat to receive a little flour. Pre-
sently all receiva their several gifts, and so we parted in friend-
ship.
The night previous to our arrival at this band, we had encampd
about 2 miles distant, though in sight of their lodges. In the
morning, after our teams were ready for starting, our captain
orderd the train to keep close together, with their guns where
they could lay their hands on them at a moment's warning, if
necessary, and no one should speak to an Indian except him-
self till we should pass the reach of danger, as there was no pos-
sibleway to pass this band excepting through their camp, and
as the advice of former emigrants was to guard against the
treachery of the Indians. Unfortunately for me, as some would
think, I had neither gun, pistol nor bowie-knife with me, but
the young man with whom I traveld, having a spare pistol pre-
sented it to me, saying—
“Here, take this, and the captain says you must go to his
wagon and get a hatchet, so that you may defend yourself and
others.”
I told him as we had about 2 miles to travel before we should
come to them, and as I had no convenient way of carrying it,
*ept in my hand, he had better carry it till we arriva there,
and then I would take it. But this was the last I saw of the
pistol at that place. When our teams arrivá at the Camp, We
all halted, and one man ran one way and another man anothe
"º talking and trading with the Indians, and preparing to
give them presents,

14 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
These bands migrate with the roaming buffalo, for on him
depends their support. At this time they were here, drying
buffalo meat for their winter supply, and also preparing robes
for sale, though their station is most of the time at Fort Larimie.
The flesh of the buffalo is cut into thin pieces and dried in the
sun without salt, and this is their principal food. They have
no flour except what little they procure of the emigrants while
passing to Oregon. In this waste country the plow is not seen
to greet the soil, and the poor Indian has nought for his support
but what nature alone provides. These Indians are better
dressd, and may be considerd more wealthy, if their property
can be calld wealth, than Indians west of the Rocky Mountains.
The American Fur Company, which has its posts of trade
located at different points east of the Rocky Mountains, are at
present in a somewhat prosperous state. I was informd by the
Principal at Fort Larimie, that the company shipd from Fort
Pier, a point on a tributary of the Missouri river, the year 1847,
more than 80,000 buffalo robes, between 11,000 and 12,000 of
which were obtaind at Fort Larimie, besides a great amount
of other peltry. But as the country is gradually drying up and
baffalo becoming less abundant, this source of profit will at
length fail.
Fort Larimie is located at Larimie fork of Platt river, a mile
or two above its confluence with that river. There is nothing
interesting about the fort. It is built of sun-dried bricks, with
timbers sufficient to support the bricks and form the doors and
windows, and done in the coarsest manner. Within this wall,
which is about 12 or 14 feet high, are the dwellings and other
necessary rooms for the accommodation of the fort. Within
this area, also, stands a large rude press, for pressing robes and
peltry for market. In another apartment is a yard for horses and
cattle. What is most attractive is, within these dwellings are
seen the white man and the rusty-looking Indian woman, living
lowingly together, whilst the little papooses are playing together
as happily. Without these mud walls are seen no appendages.
The eye can rest on nothing all around but a dreary waste, an
uncultivated country. -
On advancing up the Platt and its tributary, Sweet Water

JOURNAL OF TRAVEl S. 15.
-
river, the traveler's attention is attracted by a kind of salt he oc-
easionally sees upon the ground along the road, which by ex-
amining he finds to possess strong alkaline properties. The
waters of the Platt and Sweet Water rivers are also impregnat-
ed so strongly that whenever the rivers are so low as to disclose
the sand-bars long enough for them to dry upon their surfaces,
this salt is seen abundantly upon them.
A few miles east of Independence rock, along our route, we
saw several ponds, or small lakes, with an incrustation of this
salt several inches thick. These places the emigrants call sale-
ratus lakes, from the known fact that it has the property of rais-
ing bread.
Advancing a few miles, we come to Independence rock—
This rock is hardly worthy of notice, except for the many in-
scriptions made upon it by emigrants. It is a coarse granite
rock about 100 feet high, covering about 20 acres of ground,
standing alone and near enough to our road to read its inscrip-
tions on passing it.
About 4 miles west of Independence rock, the Sweet Water
passes through a gap of precipitous rocks 300 feet high, where
is a cascade of short distance. This gap is narrow and formd
along its sides with several crevices of circular and chimney
shape, from top to bottom. In one of these a man of our come
pany, by the name of Brock, descended. Whilst the train was
slowly passing along, several men of our company left the train
for the purpose of passing through this gap along the sides of
the waterfall. On their approach at this place, they stood view-
ing the scenery around, whilst one of them, looking up, saw a
man in the act of descending through one of these frightful open-
ings, at a distance of more than 200 feet above their heads. Mr.
Brock had passd around to the top of the rocks alone, to view the
scenery, and finding one of these places, attempted a descent.
He began the descent without knowing that any human being
stood to witness his hazardous undertaking. This opening was
so wide in some places that he could with difficulty reach from
one side to the other without losing his perpendicular position,
and oftentimes he was obliga to hold on to the rocks by his fin-
gets, where they projected not more than an inch. In this alarm-

16 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
-
ing situation of Mr. Brock, his comrades below stood looking at
him, without daring to speak, with intense anxiety for his safe-
ty, till he had accomplishd his entire descent. -
-º-
CHAPTER IV.
Remarks of the writer relative to his Journal en route to Oregon–The Journal.
As I HAD at one time thought of making a separate history
of my every day's travels from St. Josephs to Oregon City, in
pamphlet form, in order to benefit those who might desire to
have a knowledge of the route and its several distances from
place to place, at little cost, I determined to keep as accurate an
account of the distances I traveld every day, together with such
remarks in a condensed form as might be deemd necessary to
guide the traveler to Oregon, as the circumstances of the case
would admit. I therefore commened my reckoning of distan-
ces from day to day by the rotation of a wagon-wheel, at St.
Josephs, and kept it up unceasingly till I arrivd at Oregon City.
But finding this mode of writing somewhat inconvenient, and
thinking, likewise, that the history of my travels might not be
altogether uninteresting, although at somewhat more cost, I have
concluded to insert them in this place with my journal of travels
and such incidents as may occur in my absence from home.
On the 25th of April, 1848, I crossd the Missouri river at St.
Josephs into the Indian territory, with several wagons of emi-
grants, who intended to travel out a short distance and organize
for the route. This day we have traveld as far as the bluffs of
the river, a distance of 5 miles, and encampd for the might-
The next day we pursued our journey as far as Musketoe creek,
a distance of 8 miles, where we encampd. Next day, Friday,
27th, we organizd into a company of 15 or 20 wagons, with
such regulations as we deemd necessary for our safety through
the Indian country, and tarried there for the night.

JOURNAL OF TRAVEL8. 17
Saturday, April 28, we proceeded on our journey a distance
of 12 miles, to the Ioway Mission Boarding-School. 25
The 29th and 30th of April, we tarried at the mission.
Monday, May 1, we traveld 15 miles.
Tuesday, May 2–20 miles.
Wednesday, May 3–15 miles, to Nemahaw creek.
Thursday, May 4, we staid at the same place.
Friday, May 5–13 miles over a very crooked road.
Saturday, May 6–20 miles. - 108
Sunday, May 7–14 miles to camp, 4 miles to Blue creek, and
10 more to camp.
Monday, May 8–20 miles to Wyatt, fork of Blue.
Tuesday, 9th–14 miles to Walnut creek, or Sandy.
Wednesday, 10th–18 miles, at Little Fork of L. Sandy, 174
Thursday, 11th–11 miles, at Blue creek.
Friday, 12th–12 miles, yet at Blue.
Saturday, 13th–9 miles, still on Blue creek. 206
Sunday, 14th–10 miles. Here on Blue our company killd a
buffalo, for the first.
Monday, 15th–12 miles to camp on a small fork of Blue.
Feed has not yet been sufficient to give our cattle a full supply.
At this place a few wagons, which had been traveling behind
us, came up and joind our party, making in all about thirty
wagons. - -
Tuesday, 16th–28 miles to camp. Twenty brought us to
Platt river, and 8 more to camp on banks of Platt river. 256
Wednesday, 17th–22 miles up the south side of Platt.
Thursday, 18th–15 miles to City du Chien, at Plumb creek.
Here is the first saline appearance we saw on the ground.
Friday, 19th–Staid at the same place. 293
Saturday, 20th–18 miles to camp on Plattriver. Wood and
pasturage scarce. -
Sunday, 21st–25 miles. Little grass,
Monday, 224–25 miles along under the bluffs of the river to
camp. No wood here, except a few willows, for cooking. It
raind all this day, and all the night following. 361
Tuesday, 23d-The severe storm of the previous might drove
our cattle a considerable distance to the bluffs, by which means

1S JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
we did not get them all till three o'clock. We traveld only two
miles to-day.
Wednesday, 24th–12 miles to the crossing of South Fork of
Platt. The confluence of the two streams is about 18 miles be-
low the crossing. The intermediate high ridge begins about
two miles below the crossing, where probably was once their
confluence. This fork at this place is about half a mile wide,
and the quicksands gave way so rapidly under our cattle's feet,
that we found it necessary to travel quickly over it, for fear of
sinking deeply into it. By my reckoning here, the distance from
St. Josephs to the crossing is 375 miles. After we crossd the
river, we traveld five miles up the north side of the river and en-
campd for the night without any wood for cooking our food, ex-
cept a few small willows. 380.
Thursday, 25th–18 miles to camp, one mile and a half west
of where the bluffs come to the river. -
Friday, 26th–22 miles to camp, one mile and a half west of
where the old road crosses over to the North Fork of Platt.
Grass good, the best we have had. No wood. 420
Saturday, 27th–22 miles to camp on the North Fork of Platt
river. Eighteen miles of the route was over a beautifully un-
dulating prairie. Rest of the way, about two miles down into
Ash Hollow, to North Platt, rugged, and even dangerous for
wagons to pass. Four miles up the river brought us to camp,
where we had no wood except what we carried from Ash Hol-
low. - 442
Sunday, 28th–11 miles up Platt river, over a sandy road, and
passd a village of Sioux Indians. 453
Monday, 29th–17 miles to-day. Sandy road, no wood.
Burnt buffalo excrement for cooking.
Tuesday, 30th–13 miles to camp on Platt. Six miles south
of this camp stands Babel towr. It is a precipitous bluff of
clay, containing lime enough to give some degree of hardness
to it, 600 feet above the bed of the creek that passes near its base
on the south side of it. Near to this stands another, nearly
equal in hight, but inferior in size.
Wednesday, 31st–21 miles to camp on Platt. 14 to Chimney
rock, and 7 more to camp. Chimney rock is of the same mate-
rial as Babel towr, and is fast crumbling down. 534
-

3. GURNAL OF TRAVELS. 19
June 1st–34 miles to camp on Horse-Shoe creek, 8 miles to
where the road leaves the river and passes into Romantic val-
ley, where the bluffs on the sides of the valley resemble distant
cities. At the west end of this valley, the bluffs are calld Scot's
bluffs, from the circumstance of a man's having died thereby that
name. At this place is a spring where emigrants may camp,
though the grass is not very abundant. At this place we noond,
and passd over the bluffs onward, having a good road to Horse
creek, where we campd for the night. From Scot's bluffs, La-
rimie peak is first seen. 538
24–15 miles through sand-hills a considerable part of the
way, near to Platt, where little grass grows, except wild worm-
wood and prickly pear. Encampd with plenty of wood for fuel.
3d—17 miles, most of the way over a good road, to camp, 1
mile west of Fort Larimie, on Larimie's fork of Platt river. 570
4th, 5th and 6th–Staid at the same place, and shod several
oxen, which had become lame by traveling. However, as the
road some of the way after that, provd worse than any we had
passd, and our oxen not becoming lame by traveling over it, we
concluded that their lameness must be attributed in part to the
alkali over which they so frequently passd. The fort has a
blacksmith shop and some few tools, for the use of which our
company paid 7 1-2 dollars for one day and a half.
7th–Left Larimie fork about noon, and passd over the bluffs
2 miles to Platt river. From thence we passd on about 4 miles
farther and encampd, with plenty of flood wood, of yellow pine
and cedar. During the night, it was so cold as to produce ice
in our cooking vessels. About 4 miles farther on, is Black Hills
Gap, where the river passes through high, precipitous rocks.
At this place, also, the Black hills commence.
June 8th–22 miles through the Black hills. Encampd at a
spring of the best water west of St. Josephs, near to Platt. Feed
Very Scarce.
9th–20 miles, over a tolerably good road. The waysides
are bordered with wild sage. Occasionally we saw the river
Encampd on it at night, with but little grass for our cattle.
This night, the weather was not very cold. -
10th-17 miles. Left Platt early in the morning, and pur.

20 - JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
sued our way through the Black hills, nearly all the forenoom, in
a southerly direction towards Larimie peak. Road to-day quite
smooth. The country around is almost destitute of vegetation,
except the wild sage. Encampd on Big Timber creek, 635
11th–18 miles through the Black hills. Road tolerably good
most of the way. Encampd on Mike's Head creek. Have not
seen Platt to-day. Before noon we lost sight of Larimie peak,
among the hills, - -
12th–16 miles to camp on Deer creek, near to Platt, Twelve
miles brought us to Platt, and 4 more to our camp. At this
place we had a plenty of wood, good water and grass for our
stock. About noon, we left the Black hills on the north. South
of us they are seen stretching along towards the south-west,
gradually receding from us. - - 669
13th–16 miles. Encampd on Platt with plenty of wood.
Feed scarce. The wood through this part of the route is cot-
tonwood, and found only bordering the stream,
14th–Staid at the same place, on account of its being ex-
ceedingly windy. -
15th–5 miles to Platt crossing. - 690
At this place the river is about 40 rods wide, and has consid-
erable current. The Mormons from Salt Lake had arrivil a
few days previous, and prepard a raft for crossing.
16th–Crossd the Platt, traveld up the north side of it 2 miles,
and encampd. - - -
17th–30 miles. Encampd 3 miles east of the Willow spring
About 3 miles east of camp is a spring or two, the alkaline pro-
peries of which are strong enough in dry seasons to kill cattle,
iſ allowd to drink freely. I was informd that the Mormons the
last year lost more than 50 cattle at this place, by drinking the
water of these springs. Five miles of the morning route was
along the Platt, to a place calld Red Butes, from their being
tingd with iron ore, as are many others through the Black Hill
country. At these butes the Black hills terminate, and the road
leaves the Platt and passes over to Sweet Water river. -
18th–7 miles over a hilly though smooth road to camp, at a
small clear spring, though somewhat saline. No wood, burnt
buffalo excrement. 720

JOURNAL OF TRAVELs. 21
-
19th–18 miles, 14 to Sweet Water river, 2 miles to Inde-
pendence rock, and 2 farther to camp. Grass and water, no
wood. To-day over a level but mostly sandy road. The coun-
try before us and on our left, at a distance, while traveling along,
appeard more serrated, but on advancing, the illusion vanishes,
and the hills mostly appear only isolated granite rocks of mode-
rate hight, with large intervening valleys. 747
20th–14 miles to camp on Sweet Water river. Grass, no
wood. After traveling 2 miles in the morning, we came to a
kanion, where the river passes through a precipitous ledge of
rocks, 300 feet high. The water at this place falls over the rag-
ged rocks, which at some distant time had fallen into the stream
from above and formd a cascade. To-day, on our left traverses
the Sweet Water range of mountains, whilst on our right are
ranges of less hight, divided occasionally by intervening valleys.
21st–Staid at the same place. 761.
*24–12 miles over a sandy road to camp on Sweet Water.
Goodgrass, no wood. Frost and ice during the night.
234–14 miles over a sandy road. Grass, no wood. About
3 o'clock, came in full view of the Rocky mountains. Ice forma
in our cooking vessels during the night. - 787
24th–17 miles over an uneven, sandy road, to camp, on the
Sweet Water river. Here the country is a barren waste, except
along the river, where a little grass is found. Back from the
river, nothing grows but wild sage. At this place, the water of
the river is clear. Previous to this, the waters, like those of
Platt, have been turbid. - - 804
25th–9 miles over a hilly and gravelly road to camp, where
is another kanion of the river.
26th–Left the river this morning, and traveld 17 miles over a
very hilly road of coarse, sharp gravelstones, and in some places
the rocks protrude so as to strain wagons in crossing them. In
viewing the country from some of the highest hills in this place,
it appears very broken all around. Passd two or three places
that would do for camps for small parties. Encampd on a fork
of Sweet Water, just above its junction. S30
*7th–18 miles. Traveld 4 miles, and crossd the Sweet Wa-
terriver. Here we left it, to see it no more. About 9 miles

22 journaï of TRAvels.
farther, brought us to the South pass or dividing ridge. 843
South of the culminating point, at a little distance, stands
a solitary high hill, which some call Table rock. On the right,
about 12 or 15 miles, are the Wind River peaks, coverdin some
parts with snow. Traveld 5 miles farther and encampd on Pa-
cific springs, calld so from the fact that their waters run west-
wardly into the Pacific ocean. Some grass, no wood.
28th–19 miles to Little Sandy creek, a fine stream, of suffi-
cient amount of water to carry 4 run of mill stones. We passd
over an entire desert, to-day. There is no possible encampment
between Pacific springs and this place, and here is no grass, ex-
cept what borders the stream, a few rods wide on each side
of it. - S67
29th–Six miles to Great Sandy creek, over a barren clay
road. Fine stream. Little grass, no wood except a few wil-
lows. This stream is a branch of the California Colerado
river. This is Greenwood's cut-off, which begins a little east
of this river, between the two Sandys. The old road is the
one leading to Bridger's fort. It is also the one the Mormons
took, when they emigrated to Salt Lake. From Big Sandy
creek, the place of our nooning, we traveld about 2 miles, to
the top of a high point of ground, where stands Colepit rock,
a mound 20 or 30 feet high, and perhaps 100 feet around, com-
posd mostly of clay. On the top of this rock, the country can
be viewd to a great distance around.
Advancing 8 miles farther, the country appears a level plain
all around as far as the eye can reach, except on the north,
where the Wind River range stretches far to the north-west.
The rest of the day and the following night, we traveld about
15 miles, to a deep valley, dangerous to go down at night. 898
It may here be remarkd, that it would be safe to remain at
Big Sandy creek till 4 or 4 o'clock in the afternoon, in order
that daylight may appear before arriving at this valley, as it
seems necessary to travel part of the distance from Big Sandy
to Green river in the night, there being no water nor grass on
the way from Big Sandy to Green river, a distance of 44 miles.
30th–19 miles to Green river. After having passd from
Sandy to Green river, over a sage plain, destitute of water and

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 23
grass for our cattle, with four deep and dangerous valleys to
descend into on our way, our hearts were gladdend that we
were enabla to slake the thirst of our famishing cattle. Here,
also, as much of the way past, were several springs issuing from
the banks of the river, containing so much alkili as to render
them unpleasant to drink. This crossing of Green river is half
way from St. Josephs to Oregon City, being 917 miles.
July 1st–8taid at the crossing. 917
2d–9 miles to camp on Salmon Trout branch, 6 or 8 miles
above is union with Green river. We gaind but little towards
Oregon, to-day, the road being very circuitous and hilly, part of
the way. - -
34–16 miles over a very hilly road. 10 miles to nooning,
where is a tolerably good camp for a small party, 6 miles far-
ther to camp. No wood, little grass, no water except a small
spring. - 942
4th–10 miles, over a very hilly and stony road, to Ham's fork
of Green river. Some grass, no wood but willows. Here were
a few Indian lodges of the Snake tribe. 952
5th–14 miles over a very hilly road, and part of it very dan-
gerous to pass. No wood at camp, and but little grass.
6th–Frost in camp, this morning. To-day, we traveld is
miles and encampd on Bear river, 4 miles west of Smith fork.
The hills around us are quite barren. Bear river has a little
grass in some places along its bottoms. It is a considerable
stream, though not more than three fourths the water that Green
river has at the crossing.
7th–11 miles to camp on Thomas fork of Bear river, about
5 miles above its confluence, by a circuitous route. No wood
but willows. - -
8th–13 miles over steep mountains, destitute of soil and
vegetation, except weeds, to camp on Bear river, where the bot-
tom furnishes a little grass. South of us at a small distance, in
a large bottom, is Bear lake, the outlet of which unites with
Bear river, a little below camp. The mountains, viewd from
camp, seem to form a triangle. East, comes in Bear river. A
little east of south, is a long gap in the mountains, where their
waters contribute to Bear lake. A little west of north, the valley
stretches far away down Bear river.

34 JOURNAL OF TRAVELs.
-
9th–Staid at the same place, and attended the burial of a
young man of our company. To-day, also, are 14 sick persons
in our company. - 1008
10th–25 miles to camp on Bear river. Passd several fine
rills from the mountains, to-day. A very good road down Bear
River bottom. The bottom and mountain lands, to-day, assume
a more verdant appearance, though the verdure consists mostly
of useless shrubs and weeds, except on the skirts of some of
the peaks, where they are clothil with timber sparingly. From
this camp, snow is seen on the Bear River mountains. -
11th–10 miles to Soda springs, and 1 farther to camp, mak-
ing 11 miles. Have traveld over volcanic rocks, to-day, the first
have seen on our route. Near to camp and north of it, near
the base of the mountain, are three small craters, apparently, of
extinct volcanoes. They may, however, be the craters of some
ºf those silent springs. -
12th–23 miles to the head waters of Portneuf, a tributary of
Snake river. It runs in a very circuitous manner. 1067 1-2
13th–21 miles, over a mountainous road, to camp. Little
grass, no wood but willows. - -
14th–16 miles to camp, about 4 miles east of Fort Hall in a
large plain, coverd over a considerable portion of it with a heavy
growth of wild sage. This plain is very extensive, reaching
from north to south, probably nearly 100 miles. The Sheep
mountain and three butes are seen from the fort, a considerable
distance to the north of it, rising abruptly from the plain. To
the east, south and south-west, mountains are seen from the fort,
ºrrating the horizon. The rest of the horizon around presents
nearly an unbroken expanse. This plain is waterd with several
springs and streams of considerable size, some of them rising
from the level plain and passing on to join the waters of the
Snake or Lewis river. The Snake is a fine river, rising in the
Wind River mountains, north of Fort Hall, and passing near to
it in a southerly direction, where it is joind by the Portneuf.
about 9 miles below the fort, with other tributaries along the
plain. Thence, bending its course westwardly for more than
100 miles, after which its course is northward till it falls into the
Columbia river. 11041-2

-
journal of travels. 25
15th–4 miles to Fort Hall, and 2 miles farther to camp, on
Portneuf Greek, 1110 1-2
16th–7 miles to Portneuf crossing, about 25 rods above its
confluence with Snake river. At this place, and also below, on
Snake river, I gatherd a great quantity of red, yellow and blue
currants, the stalks of which grew, in some places, from 10 to 14
feet high. 1117 1-2
17th–12 miles to camp, at some springs near Snake river.
After leaving Portneuf crossing, we passd a mile down Snake
River bottom, and came to a slough, bad to cross. Passd about
half a mile farther, and came to another bad crossing of a small
stream. Thence, down the bottom about 2 miles, to a consid:
erable stream, whose banks were steep and its passage difficult.
Thence, about half a mile, to where the road ascends the first
terrace above the river bottom. The river bottom along this
day’s route has considerable grass, furnishing camps at almost
any place. 1130
18th–18 miles to camp, on Cascade creek. Two miles to
American falls, 10 miles to palaisades, 6 to camp. The water
of the American falls does not descend perpendicularly, but
like a caseade. The whole descent from the upper to the lower
expanse is from 40 to 50 feet, reckond by perpendicular meas-
urement. The rocks about the falls appear volcanic, though
some of then show marks of stratification. The table lands
here close in, so as to make the bottom lands draw to a point
at the falls. Below the falls, the table lands border the river,
and being entirely destitute of grass, render encampments dif-
ficult, much of the way. -
19th–8 miles to Cassia creek. Nowood. At this camp, the
California road leaves the Oregon trail to the right hand. West
of camp, and near to it, is a range of basaltic trap rocks, of a
prismatic and columnar structure, the fairest specimens of basalt
I have seen. Range about 60 feet high above the creek.
20th–16 miles over a district of basaltic rocks, slightly hid.
den from sight by a thin layer of clay, though in many places
they protrude so as to render traveling with wagons irksome.
Camp on Marsh or Swamp creek. No wood, plenty of grass
bordering the creek. Country around, both mountains and

26 JOURNAL OF TRAVELs.
- -
plains, destitute of soil. On the plain, is the famd sage. On
the mountains, are clusters of inferior cedar growth. Rest of
the mountains totally barren.
21st–11 miles, over a dry and dusty plain, to camp, on
Snake river, about 2 miles above the mouth of Goose creek.
Here is a narrow bottom, which furnishes a little coarse grass.
No wood. River here about of a mile wide. 1483 1-2
22d−21 miles. Four miles to Goose creek, 8 miles to the
river, a poor place for encamping, 9 miles farther to camp.
Grass. No water at this season of the year in this creek. No
wood but willows. Forenoon, road was good. Afternoon,
rocky. - 1204 1-2
230–9 miles to Rock creek, so calld from its rocky bottom.
Fine little stream. Willows for wood. Good camp.
24th–21 miles to camp. Ten to the crossing of Rock creek.
Here the banks are steep and rocky. We noond at this place.
Here, also, is grass enough for a small company to camp at
About 4 miles farther on, Rock creek turns to the leſ, and we
saw it no more. At this bend of the creek is a tolerable Camp.
Seven miles farther brought us to camp, and a miserable one it
was, being on the top of Snake River bluffs, a hight of at least
300 feet perpendicular from the river. No grass at this place.
Our cattle were driven down a narrow and difficult way, much
of it very steep, three-fourths of a mile to the river, where it was
bordered in some places by little patches of grass, often not one
rod wide. Our cattle were taken up, next morning, with not
half a supply during the night. 234 1-2
25th–16 miles. Eleven miles to Warm Spring creek. Here
is but little grass. About 4 miles farther, to Salmon Fall creek.
One mile down the creek, to camp, near its mouth. Here is a
very good camp. On the north-eastside of the river, along here
for several miles, are fine springs issuing from the bluffs, some
of which would carry the largest flouring mills. They are a
curiosity. Supposd to be the waters of the river, spreading out
into the country above the American falls, and passing along
between the basaltic rock above, and another stratum below, till
they arrive at this place, where they are dischargd into the river.
The evidence that they are the waters of the river appears to be

JOURNAL OF TRAVEI,8. 27
derival from the fact, that the river between the falls and this
place has not more than half the water in it that it has above
the falls.
26th–6 miles. Five miles to first rapids of Salmon falls, 1
more to camp. But little grass at this place, and that is mostly
on a small island or two. Salmon falls is more a cascade than
fall, except in one place, where it falls a few feet perpendicularly.
Also calld Fishing falls. The whole cascade is more than a
mile in length. To this place the Indians resort to obtain sal-
mon, which at some seasons of the year are tolerably plenty, hav-
ing come from the ocean up the Columbia river, to the mouth
of Snake river, whence they find their way to this place. 1266;
27th–24 miles to camp, on Snake river. To obtain this
camp, we left the road a mile and a half back, and followd a dry
branch down to this place. To-day, we traveld over a dry sage
plain, though we had a tolerably good road. At this place, and
even farther east, are seen the relics of wagons of former emi-
grants, strewd along the road. Boxes, bands, tire, and all parts
of the irons of wagons, left behind. 12S1
28th–2 miles from where we left the road, yesterday, to the
old crossing of Snake river. At the crossing, are two small
islands, which furnish a little grass. Encampd 2 miles farther
on, where is little grass. No wood for fuel. Along the river at
this place, is a kind of grass so sait that cattle will eat it only as
they stand in need of salt. The leaves of this grass grow about
3 inches high, and the seed-bearing stalk is from 6 to 10 inches
in hight. It grows along the river bottoms, in small patches.
I do not know any name for it, and therefore denominate it salt
grass, as other grasses will grow amongst it, that are perfectly
fresh.
29th–12 miles, over as rough and stony a road, along the
banks of Snake river, as ever I traveld. One wagon was brok-
en, to-day, and left to be totally destroyd by those that came
after us. 1297 1-2
30th–11 miles to camp. Grass not very good. About two
miles back, grass might be had by driving the cattle on to an
island, in the river. Road sandy during forepart of the route,
to-day, and during the afterpart, good.

£8 Journ AL OF TRAVELs.
31st–11 1-2 miles. Six and a half miles to Salt Grass creek,
a name given from the abundance of salt grass growing there.
A tolerable camp might be had at that place. The creek soon
passes among the bluffs, in a northerly direction, and unites with
Snake river, about 5 miles below where we are campd. Grass
is plenty at this place, but it is almost impossible to obtain any
thing of which to make fires. 1320
August 1st–191-2 miles, over a very level plain, most of the
way, and near to the river, to camp, on Grease Wood creek,
about a mile above its mouth. No good camp can be had along
this day's route, till our present one, which is not very good.
Between camp and Snake river, the little stream on which our
camp is located passes through two crags of basaltic rock, much
crumbled down by time. Rock, east of creek, shows marks of
excessive volcanic violence. Volcanic einders, rocks half melt-
ed, chimneys where smoke has issued, and in fact, every mark
of Vulcan's blacksmith shop is here displayd.
24–24 miles to camp on Snake river, at the mouth of a small
dry branch. Grass scarce. No place for encamping, short of
this place, except at 8 miles from last night's camp, where a
small stream affords very little grass. Our way, to-day, has been
over a very uneven and dusty road. We ascended one hill, so
steep and sandy, that we were obliga to double our teams to
surmount it. - 1363 1-2
34–4 miles to camp, on Snake river, and drove our cattle on
to a small island.
4th–9 miles to camp, on Snake river, 7 1-2 miles to Hot
springs, 11-2 to camp. The water of these Hot springs, at their
source, is sealding hot. We crossd them both, a short distance
from their source, and as they are not very far apart, it is proba-
ble that their fountain is together. They are much mineralized.
5th–14 1-2 miles, through a sultry hot day, over a desert
plain and dusty road, to camp, on Snake river. No good camp
could be had short of this place, to-day. During the day, we
ºuld discover a visible lowering down of the mountains on
each side, towards the confluence of Boyce and Owyhe rivers
and the Snake, where their valleys unite and form an extensive
plain. Salt grass still continues along the river bottom. We,

Journal, or TRAVELS. 29
to-day, lose sight of the basaltic rocks, so long witnessd on our
right hand and on our left. They reach from the American
falls nearly to this place, and as they appear to be thinner on ad-
vancing westward, it is thought by some that the lava of which
they are formd, ſlowd in that direction. It is said that the In-
dians of this place are snakes in the grass, but it is much to be
regretted that the river is not a snake in the grass, whilst our
cattle are in so starving a condition.
6th–19 miles to camp on Owyhe river, about 4 miles above
Fort Boyce. Not very good grass at this place. 1410
7th–Traveld one mile and a half down Owyhe river, and en-
campd. -
Sh-16 miles, over a good road, to camp, on Malheur (pron.
malare) river. Grass plenty. No firewood but willows. At
this place, Mr. Meek attempted a cut-off to Oregon city, by fol-
lowing up the course of this river south, for some distance, and
then directing his course westward, till he should arrive at Wil-
lamet valley, south a considerable distance from Oregon city.
His attempt proved a failure, with the loss of considerable pro-
perty and the lives of some of his company. It is said that
there were nearly 200 wagons in his train. -
Our route to-day, from last night's camp to Malheur river.
leaves Fort Boyce 3 miles to the right. The fort is located in
a pleasant place, on the bank of Snake river, just below the
union of the Owyhe and Boyce with the Snake. The river at
this place is near a quarter of a mile wide, and the only means
of ferrying it is a canoe brought from the river Payette, 250
miles from this place. 1427 1-2
9th–25 miles to camp, on Birch creek 13 miles to a sul-
phur spring, where we noond. This distance is up an arm of
the Malheur, though dry at the time. Its course is through a
level flat, from one to two miles wide, having high ranges of
land on each side. From Sulphur spring, the road ascends
rapidly to its highest point, a mile or two farther on, where the
country can be viewd for a considerable distance all around.
Reflecting upon such a wonderful scenery as is here on every
side displayd, the mind can hardly appreciate the amount of dy-
namics adequate to displace and disrupt the surface of the earth

30 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
so immensely. It appears like a great harrow, fit only for Her-
cules to use in leveling off the surface of some planet.
10th–8 miles to Burnt river, (probably from the naked and
reddend appearance of the mountains through which it passes.)
Three miles of the morning route brought us once more to
Snake river, where we saw it for the last time. Remaining 5
miles over a somewhat hilly road to camp, on Burnt river, but
a small stream at this place. On viewing the river and its
small flats bordering it, from camp, it appears wholly environd
by rugged, jagged mountains, in close contiguity. Oh, when
shall I view, once more, a verdant landscape! One thousand
miles of naked rocks! Landscape without soil! River bot-
toms with scarcely grass enough to support emigrant teams
Who can but think of his native land and the “old oaken
bûcket” 2. 1460 1-2
11th–13 miles to camp on Burnt river. No good camp
short of this, and this not very good. For 5 or 6 miles of our
morning route up the river, the road was very rough and stony,
and it crosses the creek seven times within that distance. Re-
mainder of the day's travel was more easily performd, though
more hilly, yet smooth. South of camp and near to it, ascends
a mountain, the height of which, as nearly as I could measure,
with the limited means I had, is about 1300 feet above the bed
of Burnt creek. Along this stream emigrants have formerly
been much intimidated through fear of sudden attacks from In-
dians. It is very densely shrouded much of the way with balm
of Gilead, alder, hawthorn, and various kinds of shrubbery, so
that the Indians could secrete themselves, till the near approach
of an emigrant train, and then with a sudden rush from the thick-
et, frighten the teams and kill many of the emigrants. Howev-
er, we saw no Indians along this river. -
12th.-4 miles over a worse road than yesterday afternoon,
and crossd the creek five times. 1477 1-9
13th–16 miles to camp on a tributary of Burn river. Soon
after having started in the morning, we crossd the principal
stream of Burnt river, for the last time. A little farther on, we
came to a small right hand tributary coming from the north.
which we followd up about 2 miles, crossing it 8 times. We

Journ AL OF TRAVELS. 31
then left it, winding our way over the mountains westwardly,
crossing two or three other small tributaries, till we arrivd again
upon the Burntriver bottoms, not more than 8 miles in a straight
line from last night's camp. At this place we moond, after have
ing passd over a hilly, though smooth road. Here emigrants
might tary for the night. One mile further on we crossd North
fork, and upset one wagon at the crossing. Our course was
now nearly west, up a mountain, till we arrivá at a branch of
the North fork. Passing on a mile or more, we encampd for the
night. Grasses along the bottom here are coarse, consisting of
wild wheat, rye, and wild chess. Mountain grasses here are
the bunch grass, as it is calld, but at this time so dry and dead
that eattle do not love it. The hills at the sources of the Burnt
river, among which they ramify in all directions, like the blood
vessels in the human system, are composd measurably of a slaty
rock, which decomposes into loose material more readily than
the hard basaltic rocks of Snake river. Occasionally, however,
graphic granite is here seen to protrude above the hills.
14th–20 miles to camp, at Lone Pine stump, now nearly ob-
literated by fires set to it by emigrants, in the valley of Powder
river. Here is the bed of a small stream, where there is water
at some seasons of the year, though dry now, except in stagnant
ponds. Grass is tolerably plenty along this little branch. No
wood at this place to be obtaind for cooking. Road, to-day,
hilly but smooth. At about 6 miles, emigrants might camp.
Here, we left the waters of Burnt river, and passd over the hills
to Powder river. Powder River valley, east of camp, still re-
tains the old character of desert and sage plain. 1513 I-2
15th–14 1-2 miles to camp, on west branch in west valley
of Powder river. Nine miles to Powder river, down by a cir-
cuitous route, along the river, 2 miles to first crossing. Thence
across the plain to second fork or crossing, 21-2 miles. One
mile farther to west fork or third crossing. In all, 14 1-2 miles
to camp. East valley of Powder river is a spacious plain, very
level, and would be as handsome a valley as my feet ever trode
upon, were it coverd with the rich grasses of the eastern states.
At each of the three crossings here mentiond, which unite a
short distance below us and form the principal Powder river, is

32 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
seen in small patches, a luxuriant growth of the well known
grass, red top. As we advance, the climate changes. In camp,
this morning, was seen ice in our cooking vessels, and by 10 we
were uncomfortably warm. On our left, the Powder River
mountains, close by which the river finds it way, are clothd with
timber, nearly down their declivities to their base. On our right
they yet are naked, Indians around us are burning, as fast as
verdure becomes dry enough, which at this time, renders the
air so smoky, that we can see but a short distance.
16th–15 miles to camp, at the head of Grand Round valley.
After traveling a short distance, this morning, from the last cross-
ing of Powder river, we ascended a short rise. We then pro-
ceeded over a smooth road of moderate descent, till we came to
a small branch of Powder river, at the foot of a hill, where sev-
eral small rivulets are seen to issue from the hills round about.
This is about 8 miles from the last crossing. Here is a tolera-
ble encampment. The rest of the way to Grand Round hollow,
a distance of 7 miles further, is over a hilly and some part of the
way, very stomy road. At 10 1-2 miles from the crossing, emi-
grants might also encamp for the night, there being a little was
ter and some grass along a small run. Grand Round valley is
extensive. It is surrounded with high hills, coverd with bunch
grass, except occasional patches of yellow pine. Along our
road, this valley is rich, coverd with various kinds of grasses,
though entirely dead much of the way across the upper end of
the valley at this time, no rains having fallen here lately.
17th–15 miles to camp, on Grand Round river. Eight miles
across the head of the beautiful Grand Roundvalley, to a small
branch, where emigrants might camp for the night, at the foot
of the Blue mountains bordering the valley. From thence, we
wound our way over the steep and rugged mountains, racking
and straining our wagons, the distance of 7 miles farther, to the
deep and lonely dell, where the Grand Round river is struggling
and forcing its way through its narrow passage, down to the
beautiful valley, Grand Round. Over this day's route, the
mountains have as rich a soil as the valley, till near the dell,
where the red mountain soil is seen. Where we are campd, the
dell is narrow, and furnishes but little grass. It is remarkable

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 33
for loudness of sound, when a gun is fired. Rocks of these
mountains, volcanic. 1558 1-2
18th–10 1-2 miles, over a very uneven district of volcanic
rocks and mountain soil, to camp, on one of the highest peaks
of the Blue mountains on our route. Country, to-day, becomes
more densely timberd all around and along our road, overshadº
owing it in many places with yellow pine, fir and spruce hem-
lock. Have passd several deep cuts, to-day, so steep that teams
were necessarily doubld to ascend out of them, and some of
them were dangerous and difficult. Our camp is located on
the side of a high ridge, in a small opening, nearly one fourth
of a mile above its base, where we were obligd to descend, to
obtain water for cooking. From this high ridge, it is said, Mt.
Hood can be seen, but at this time it is so smoky, that we can
see but a little distance. - 1569
19th–10 miles, over the western declivity of the Blue moun-
tains, moderate in descent, and tolerably smooth most of the
way to camp, in a small opening, a little larger than our carelle,
calld Lee's encampment. Here, two men met us, from Fort
Waters, where the late murders were committed, with news that
we had nothing to fear from hostile Indians, any farther on our
route. This gave great encouragement to the timorous emi-
grants. Accordingly, - - --
20th–We descended the western declivity of the Blue moun-
tains, part of the way over volcanic scoria, to camp, on Uma-
tilla river. About 12 miles of the first part of this day's route,
was through a timberd district of pine, hemlock and fir, loaded,
many of them, with pendant moss. On leaving the timber, we
ascended a hill, a mile or more, to Mount Prospect, the last high
point before descending the bluffs to the river. I name the hill,
from its commanding a view of the whole western horizon, to
a great distance around.
On Prospect hill is a cluster of rocks, which, with a little help
of the imagination, can be easily construed into Vulcan's black-
smith shop, where all the cinders so profusely spread over the
Blue mountains, were made. On retiring, he left his forge load-
ed with the cinders of his last blast, as a memorial of his great
ambition. -
3

34 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.
Three and a half miles more, down the bluffs, brought us to
camp, making in all, this day, 161-2 miles. 1595-1-2
21st–Down Umatilla river, near to crossing, 10 miles. Coun-
try here entirely prairie, and very undulating.
22d-Crossd the river, half a mile below camp, and passd
about two miles on the flat. Ascended the bluff, and passd
over the prairie about 14 miles, to the river, down the river two
miles to camp, making in all 18 1-2 miles. Prairie, to-day, un-
even, and of poor soil. 1624
23d—14 1-2 miles to camp, on Alder creek. Five miles to
second crossing of Umatilla, 81-2 miles to Alder creek, up the
same one mile to camp. Little grass, no wood but fine willows.
In this day's travel, two miles might have been savd, by cross-
ing the river at camp, but to avoid sandy traveling, emigrants
go down the river some farther. This is Whitman's cut-off.
24th–181-2 miles, over a poor tract of the Columbia River
valley, to camp, at the foot of a hill, by a spring, calld Well
spring, rising in the center of a large mound of decayd vegeta-
tion, and sinking suddenly again, within a few feet of where it
issues. Noond, to-day, on the battle-ground of the 24th Feb-
ruary, 1848, between Oregon soldiers and the Cayuse Indians.
No grass nor water exists along this day's route, where emi-
grants might refresh themselves and their weary teams. Fire
wood is obtaind two miles east, in a hollow, where are a few
scattering cedars. The spring at camp should be watchd during
the night, by a strong guard, to keep thirsty cattle from falling
into it, out of which they cannot extricate themselves.
25th–13 miles, over a miserably poor and uneven country,
to Quesnell's creek. Down the creek one mile, in order to ob-
tain water, where camp is located. 1670
26th–Staid at camp. Morning cold. Found there was ice
in our cooking vessels, though weather became warm during
the day. -
27th—Returnd up the creek to the crossing, though on the
west side of the flat. From the east side of the flat, to-day's
reckoning commences, and crosses over to Beaver fork of John
Day's river, a distance of 20 1-2 miles. No camp can be had
between the two places, though a small spring exists, two miles

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 35
east of camp, Most of the way to-day, the road has been good,
through a long, level valley.
28th–7 miles to crossing of John Day's river. Way down
Beaver fork, very rocky, and road crosses it 4 times. 16971-2
29th–Down John Day's river, half a mile. Then ascended
the bluff, about one mile, up a narrow, winding, rocky ravine,
the worst we had ever traveld. On the top of this bluff, the
road divides, one leading to the Columbia river. The other, at
the left, is the one we took. From the top of this bluff, the
road, the remainder of the day, was smooth to camp, at a lone
spring among the bluffs. Distance to-day, about fifteen miles.
Grass enough for a small band, No wood. About two miles
east, up a ravine a short distance to the left, there are two small
springs, where a small party might camp for the night. No
wood. 1712 1-2
30th–25 miles to camp, on the western declivity of the divid-
ing ridge, between John Day's and Deshutes river, at the up-
per end of a ravime, where was a little grass, but no wood, and
no water for cattle. We staid through the night, without sup-
per, and left next morning, without breakfast.
31st–Traveld about 5 miles, to the crossing of Deshutes or
Fall river. Here, we breakfasted in a deep chasm, almost as
difficult of descent and ascent, as the valley of Sindbad the
sailor, with nearly precipitous rocks, from 1000 to 1500 feet
high, on every side. Afternoon employd in calking wagon-
boxes, to ferry our goods across the river.
Friday, Sept. 1st–All day employd in getting our goods
across the river, with the help of several Indians. River at the
crossing, about seven rods wide, with considerable current.
2d—Whilst watching some of our wagons on the bank of
the river, till others could be taken up the bluffs, I was led to
the following reflections upon the miserable condition of the
poor, degraded-looking Indians at this place–
THE INDIANS OF DESHUTES.
“That Indian, whose untutord mind
Sees God in the clouds, or hears him in the wind-
Whose soul, proud science never taught to strºy -
Far as the glittring sun, or other orbs of day,

36 JOURNAL OF TRAVELs.
Lives fºr retird—a kanion deep, a solitary dell,
A gloomy shade—'tis there he deigns to dwell.
What is his food, when naught but rocks around
Are seen 4 No fields of plenty there do clothe the ground.
His raiment, also scant, to shield his naked form,
No robes of beasts, nor pelts, nor furs, to guard him from the storm.
And when with food he chance to break his fast,
He finds no wood to cook his limited repast.
Alas, what then? The salmon and the salmon trout,
In that mad stream, are seen to gambol all about.
By him prepard upon the rocks, or hung on slender poles,
Not far above, on steep decline, where furious water rolls,
He dries his food, and thus’tis sayd from future harm.
'Tis nearly all he has of food—his clothes, they still are less, with which
to keep him warm, -
Now, why should man, poor wretched man, receive such prompt reply-
That when he broke the law of God, 'twas sure that he must die
Yet linger first awhile, still wretched and forlorn, - -
To glean an almost naked earth, 'mongst thistle and the thorn?
'Twas done to show that God is just, and true to all intent–
- Thatman a lesson here might learn, and thus to him repent.
Nine miles from Deshutes, over the rocky bluffs, brought us
to another resting-place, on an arm of Deshutes, flowing from
the mountains, in the direction of Mount Hood. Five miles
from Deshutes, was a spring, where emigrants sometimes camp,
but at this time the Indian ponies had eaten off all the grass.
We therefore passd on to our present camp. 1751 1-2
3d—12 1-2 miles to camp, on a small tributary of Deshutes,
at Barlow's gate—all but the gate, though he was found sitting
there at the receipt of custom, allowing each emigrant wagon to
pass his road through the Cascade mountains, at the moderately
healthy sum of five dollars each, which the Government of
Oregon had authorized him to receive. But, as miserable a
road as it was, thanks be to Mr. Barlow for his emergetic move-
ment in opening a way through sorough a district as the Cas-
cade mountains.
Several small streams were passd to-day, though no camps
could well be made on them, for want of grass, except the first,
which had a very little. 1764
4th–Staid at the same place.
5th–Over the rocky hills, 12 miles to camp, on a muddy
arm of Deshutes, flowing from Mount Hood, Ten and a half

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 37
miles to the arm, 1 1-2 up the same to camp. No grass for our
stock.
6th–3 miles up Deshutes valley, to Palmer's cabin. In con-
sequence of having lost some of our cattle in the thick and al-
most impenetrable forest, our day's drive was short. A little
below Palmer's cabin, are signs of very rich bog iron ore. I
afterwards found other places of iron ore along the road, by
which I was satisfied that the Cascades abound in iron. 1779
7th–10 miles, over the dividing ridge, to camp, at a small
flat prairie on our left, from which Mount Hood is seen, a few
miles distant, towring high above its neighbor mountains. 1789
8th–10 miles to camp. No grass. Chaind our oxen to trees,
and cut a few birch limbs for them. Passd, to-day, what is
calld Laurel hill. It is steep and dangerous.
9th–6 miles, down Muddy fork of Sandy, to camp. Drove
our cattle across the stream, and found some grass for them.
This has been a rainy day.
10th–15 miles, most of the way over a good road, especially
on the ridge, calld by some, “Devil's Back-Bone.”
11th–8 miles, over a hilly road, down to the first settlement
at the west foot of the Cascade mountains. One mile to the
last crossing of Sandy creek, 7 more to camp. 1828
12th–12 miles to camp.
13th–6 miles to Oregon City. 1846


ADWICE TO EMIGRANTS.
—esserººstereº-
CHAPTER V.
Necessary outfits for emigrants to Oregon or California, taken from Palmer's Joºr
nal of Travels to Oregon–Additional advice by the Author.
For burthen wagons, light four-horse or heavy two-horse
wagons are the size commonly usd. They should be made
of the best material, well seasond, and should in all cases
have falling tongues. The tire should not be less than one and
three fourths inches wide, but may be advantageously usd
three inches; two inches, however, is the most common width.
In fastening on the tire, bolts should be usd instead of nails;
it should be at least five eighths or three fourths of an inch thick.
Hub boxes for the hubs should be about four inches. The
skeins should be well steeld. The Mormon-fashiond wagon-
bed is the best. They are usually made straight, with side-
boards about 16 inches wide, and a projection outward of four
inches on each side, and then another side-board of 10 or 12
inches. In this last, set the bows for covers, which should al-
ways be double. Boxes for carrying effects should be so con-
structed as to correspond in hight with the offset in the wagon-
bed, as this gives a smooth surface to sleep upon.
Ox teams are more extensively usd than any others. Oxen
stand the trip much better, and are not so liable to be stolen
by the Indians, and are much less trouble. Cattle are generally
allowd to go at large, when not hitehd to the wagons, whilst
horses and mules must always be stakd up at night. Oxen
can procure food in many places where horses cannot, and in

40 ADVICE TO EMI GRANTS.
much less time. Cattle that have been raisd in Illinois or Mis-
souri, stand the trip better than those raisd in Indiana or Ohio,
as they have been accustomd to eating the prairie grass, upon
which they must wholly rely while on the road. Great care
should be taken in selecting cattle—they should be from four to
six years old, tight and heavy made.
For those who fit out but one wagon, it is not safe to start
with less than four yoke of oxen, as they are liable to get lame,
have sore necks, or to stray away. One team thus fitted up
may start from Missouri with twenty-five hundred pounds, and
as each day's rations make the load that much lighter, before
they reach any rough road, their loading is much reducd-
Persons should recollect that every thing in the outfit should be
as light as the requird strength will permit. No useless trumpe-
ry should be taken. The loading should consist of provisions
and apparel, a necessary supply of cooking fixtures, a few tools,
&c. No great speculation can be made in buying cattle and
driving them through to sell, but as the prices of oxen and cows
are much higher in Oregon than in the States, nothing is lost in
having a good supply of them, which will enable the emigrant
to wagoa through many articles that are difficult to be obtaind
in Oregon. Each family should have a few cows, as the milk
can be usd the entire route, and they are often convenient to put
to the wagon to relieve oxen. They should be so selected that
portions of them would come in fresh upon the road. Sheep
can also be advantageously driven. American horses and mares
always command high prices, and with careful usage can be
taken through, but if usd to wagons or carriages, their loading
should be light. Each family should be provided with a sheet-
iron stove, with boiler. A platform can easily be constructed at
the hind end of the wagon, and as it is frequently quite windy,
and there is often a scarcity of wood, the stove is very conve-
nient. Each family should also be provided with a tent, and to
it should be attachd good strong cords, to fasten it down.
The cooking fixtures generally usd are of sheet iron—a Dutch
oven and skillet of cast metal are very essential. Plates, cups,
&c., should be of tinware, as queensware is much heavier and
liable to break, and consumes much time in packing up. A re-

ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS, 41.
flector is sometimes very useful. Families should each have
two churns, one for carrying sweet and one for sour milk-
They should also have one eight or ten-gallon keg for carrying
water, one axe, one shovel, two or three augers, one hand-saw,
and if a farmer, he should be provided with one cross-cut saw
and a few plow-molds, as it is difficult getting such articles.
When I left the country, plows cost from twenty-five to forty
dollars each. A good supply of ropes for tying up horses and
catching cattle, should also be taken.
Every person should be well supplied with boots and shoes,
and in fact with every kind of clothing. It is also well to be
supplied with at least one feather bed, and a good assortment
of bedding. There are no tame geese in the country, but an
abundance of wild ones, yet it is difficult procuring a sufficient
quantity of feathers for a bed. The Muscovy is the only tame
duck in the country.
Each male person should have at least one rifle gun, and a
shotgun is also very useful for wildfowl and small game, of
which there is an abundance. The best sized calibre for the
mountains is from thirty-two to fifty-six to the pound—but one
of from sixty to eighty, or even less, is best when in the lower
settlements. Buffaloes seldom range beyond the South Pass,
and never west of Green river. The larger game are elk, deer,
antelope, mountain sheep or bighorn, and bear. The small
game are hare, rabbit, grouse, sage hen, pheasant, quail, &c.
A good supply of ammunition is essential. -
In laying in a supply of provisions for the journey, persons
will doubtless be governd in some degree by their means, but
there are a few essentials that all will require.
For each adult, there should be two hundred pounds of flour,
thirty pounds of pilot bread, seventy-five pounds of bacon, ten
pounds of rice, five pounds of coffee, two pounds of tea, twen-
ty-five pounds of sugar, half a bushel of dried beans, one busheſ
of dried fruit, two pounds of saleratus, ten pounds of salt, half a
bushel of corn meal—and it is well to have a half bushel of
corn, parchd and ground—a small keg of vinegar should also be
taken. To the above may be added as many good things as
the means of the person will enable him to carry, for whatever

42 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS,
is good at home is none the less so on the road. The above
will be ample for the journey, but should an additional quantity
be taken, it can be readily disposd of in the mountains and at
good prices, not for cash, but for robes, dressd skins, buckskin
pants, moccasins, &c. It is also well for families to be provided
with medicines. It is seldom, however, that emigrants are sick
—but sometimes eating too freely of fresh buffalo meat causes
diarrhoea, and unless it be checkd soon prostrates the individual,
and leaves him a fit subject for disease.
The time usually occupied in making the trip from Missouri
to Oregon city is about five months, but with the aid of a person
who has traveld the route with an emigrating company, the trip
can be performd in about four months.
Much injury is done to teams in racing them, endeavoring to
pass each other.
Emigrants should make an every-day business of traveling
—resting upon the same ground two nights is not good policy,
as the teams are likely to ramble too far.
Getting into large companies should be avoided, as they are
necessarily compeld to move more tardily. From ten to twenty-
five wagons is a sufficient number to travel with safety. The
advance and rear companies should not be less than twenty,
but between, it may be safe to go with six.
The Indians are very annoying on account of their thieving
propensities, but if well watchd, they would seldom put them in
practice.
Persons should always avoid rambling far from campunarmd
or in too small parties; Indians will sometimes seek such op-
portunities to rob a man of what little effects he has about him,
and if he attempts to get away from them with his property,
they will sometimes shoot him.
There are several points along the Missouri where emigrants
have been in the practice of fitting out. Of these, Independence,
St. Josephs and Council Bluffs, are the most noted. For those
emigrating from Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and northern Missouri,
Iowa and Michigan, I think St. Josephs the best point, as by
taking that route the crossing of several streams (which at the
early season we travel are sometimes very high) is avoided.

ADV ICE TO EMIGRANTS, 43
Outfits may be had at this point as readily as at any other along
the river. Work cattle can be bought in its vicinity for from
twenty-five to thirty dollars per yoke, cows, horses, &c., equally
cheap.
Emigrants should endeavor to arrive at St. Josephs early in
April, so as to be in readiness to take up the line of march by
the middle of April. Companies, however, have often started
as late as the tenth of May; but in such cases they seldon,
arrive in Oregon until after the rainy season commences in the
Cascade range of mountains.
Those residing in northern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan,
&c., who contemplate traveling by land to the place of rendez-
vous, should start in time to give their teams at least ten days'
rest, Ox teams, after traveling four or five hundred miles in
the States, at that season of the year, would be unfit to perform
a journey across the mountains; but doubtless they might be
exchangd for others, at or near the rendezvous.
Farmers would do well to take along a good supply of horse
gears. Mechanics should take such tools as are easily carried;
as there are but few in the country, and those are held at ex-
orbitant prices. Every family should lay in a good supply of
school books for their children.
Since the advice of Mr. Palmer was given to Oregon emi-
grants, relating to outfits for the overland route to that country,
some advantages have been experiencă by the use of mule in-
stead of ox teams. In the first place, that animal is much more
sure-footed than the ox or the horse, and in the next place, he can
live on kinds of food that the ox or the horse will not eat, and
he will also live on a much less amount. The mule is more
hardy than the horse or the ox, and will endure fatigue when
the others will faint. Another circumstance which I do not re-
collect to have seen mentiond by any writer, and which it may
not be improper to add in this place, is the failure of oxen upon
the emigrant route, from lameness by traveling over ground be-
strewn with salts of various kinds, but mostly alkali. To meu-
tralize the alkali so as to prevent the oxen from becoming lame,
their hoofs should be rubd with lard or tallow at least twice

44 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS,
each day, till the tract of country containing such salt is passd
over. It is, however, probable that in a few years the place of
oxen will be supplied by the use of mules, though attention will
doubtless need to be paid to the hoofs of mules, to keep them
sound, as well as of oxen.
If persons wish to leave the States for California by the over-
land route, earlier than the time mentioned by Mr. Palmer, it
would be necessary to leave the States with as much provision
for their teams as they could at first well haul, after having first
supplied themselves with their own necessary food to last them
through their journey. In such case a considerable distance
may be overcome before the early production of grasses upon
the plains. -
A few words by way of advice to persons wishing to go to
California to dig for gold, may not be uninteresting here. I
have noticed that miners from the States carry to California a
great amount of baggage and implements for mining operations
at great costs of transportation and removal from one place to
another, which I deem wholly unnecessary. This oftentimes
enormous expense can be savd from the fact that clothing and
mining implements of all necessary kinds are very abundant in
California, although at a higher price than in the States, yet still
the cost of most articles in the mines will not equal the cost in
the States, added to transportation costs from the States to the
seat of mining operations in California. I would therefore say
that one suit of substantial coarse clothes, and money enough to
defray expenses there, is all that is best to carry. The amount
of money necessary to defray expenses, by way of the isthmus,
from the States to the seat of mining operations in California,
cannot at present be less than 200 dollars to each person, at the
cheapestmode of traveling. Conveyance by steamer, with best
accommodations, will cost not much short of 500 dollars, but in
no case, considering contingencies, will it be safe to start with
less than 300 dollars.
Another circumstance which I have seen much chanted in the
public papers, although not particularly connected with the fore-
going information, is the scheme of making a railroad from th:
States overland to California. I can only speak for one person,
ADVICE TO EMIGRANTs. 45
and this much it is, that if Whitney knew that out of 2000 miles
overland, more than 1500 of it is a waste, barren tract, and like-
wise much of it very rugged, he might be prepard to think as I
do, that the income of such a road would never keep it in repair.
-









DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
CHAPTER VI.
South Pass–Wind River Mountains—Oregon, its three grand divisions.
Having accomplishd my journal of distances from St. Jo-
sephs to Oregon city, I begin my history of Oregon with the
South Pass and Wind River mountains. From descriptions
formerly given by some writers of the South Pass, the reader
may be led to suppose that the traveler is to pass through a tre-
mendous gap of the Rocky mountains, walld in with huge
rocks on its sides, passable only by traversing the bottoms of a
stream of water, which finds its way through the mountains of
that place. But instead of such an appearance as that, on ar-
riving at the culminating point, he sees before him, on his left
and behind, only an undulating country, difficult probably in
many places to pass with wagons, on account of the roughness
and unevenness of the surface of the land, but destitute entirely
of those cragged cliffs and high towring mountains, which the
imagination sometimes pictures out, previous to a perfect vision
of a country scenery.
The surface of the land along the emigrant route at the pass,
is sufficiently uneven to determine within one rod of the culmi-
mating point, after which within a short distance, the road com-
mences a somewhat rapid descent westward three or four miles,
to a spring issuing from the hills, calld Pacific spring, because
its waters are dischargd westward into the Pacific ocean.
On the right, at the dividing ridge, twelve or fifteen miles
north of the emigrant road, terminate the Wind River range of
mountains, calld also the Rocky mountains. From their south-

48 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
ern extremity to a considerable distance either east or west of
the dividing ridge, they are seen to stretch far away to the north-
west, towring high and giving rise to several important rivers,
which traverse the continent, and terminate, some of them in
the Atlantic ocean eastward, and some of them in the Pacific
ocean westward. Although these mountains have many lofty
peaks, yet I believe none of them are sufficiently high to main-
tain their glaciers during the whole year, at all times. It is nev-
ertheless true, that some of their chasms and deep ravines upon
their north-eastern declivities oftentimes have snow lying in them
through the year, yet no point on any one of them, as has been
remarkd, is high enough for the existence of a zone of perpetual
frost. This position is well corroborated, also, from the fact
that forests are seen growing, not only high up their declivities,
but entirely upon their summits. -
- The present country of Oregon, belonging to the U. States,
extends from the dividing ridge or natural division of the waters
of the continent, to the Pacific ocean westward, and in extent
north and south, from lat. 42 deg. north to 49 deg. north. I
seems to be divided into three grand divisions, by ranges of
parallel mountains from north to south. The dividing summit
of the continent on the east, west of the eastern division, are
the Blue mountains, separating it from the middle-and-be-
tween the middle and western divisions, is the Cascade range
of mountains. - - -
CHAPTER VII.
The Divisions are separately considerd–The Climate-Rivers and Agricultural Re-
sources—Mineral and Geological Character.
THE FIRST or eastern division of Oregon can at present be
eonsiderd worth little else than to hold the world together. It
however, furnishes a tolerably good conveyance towards the

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 49.
ocean for some of the waters of Oregon, that take their rise in-
the Rocky mountains and elsewhere along the western declivity
of the continent near to the dividing ridge.
The surface of this division is undulating. Some of its rivers
traverse the country along their beds, from five hundred to more
than one thousand feet below the common surface. Although
along the emigrant route this division measures about seven
hundred miles in width, yet its true width may not much exceed
six hundred,—and little else is seen but a country destitute of
soil and vegetation, excepting wild sage, and except also along
the rivers and some of the valleys, where detachd portions of
grass are seen. The valley along the emigrant route, through
which the Powder river waters pass, is a level plain, and it
would be a delightsome Eden, had it soil, and were it coverd
with luxuriant grasses. -
I am here led to remark, that the analysis of the soil here,
made by Col. Fremont on his way through this valley, to for-
eign readers might produce much misunderstanding relative to
the soil of the country generally. Although the analysis here
producd may be such as indicates good soil, yet with a little ex-
aggeration it may be said that another shovelful of earth would
have taken nearly all the soil of the whole valley.
Across the middle division of Oregon by way of the emigrant
route, from Grand Round valley to Barlow's gate, at the east
side of the Cascade range of mountains, is about 212 miles,
though probably in a direct course it would be some less than
200. The Blue mountains traversing this division, give rise to
some rivers that checker its visage, but they are of minor im-
portance, and nearly dried up in the summer, from the long ab-
sence of rains in those parts. This division compares very well
with the eastern, in point of barrenness and disadvantages gen-
erally for the promotion of settlement and improvements of any
kind.
I come now to consider the western division of Oregon—the
only one on which settlements of any considerable extent have
been effected, although Dr. Whitman succeeded in maintaining
4.

50 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON--
a small position on the Walla Walla river, till the fall of 1847,
at which time himself and wife were killd by the Indians of his
own fostering, growing out of a dissatisfaction relative to his
treatment with them. And although it is thought by many
that the doctor acted in all good conscience towards them, yet
through blind zeal and probably a sectarian influence from other
denominations of religionists, they were led to believe that the
doctor was taking measures to undermine their liberties, and
ultimately to overthrow and destroy them, -
From the east side of the Cascade range of mountains west-
wardly to the Pacific ocean, the western division ranges from
150 to 200 miles in width, and extending from north to south
through the whole length of the Oregon territory.
In remarking upon the several distinct subjects that come toº
hand relative to Oregon, I am first led to notice its climate.—
The climate of Oregon may be considerd a healthy one, though
it is subject to considerable changes from year to year. The
summer seasons are generally dry, with warm days and cool
nights, from the first of July to the first of October, though the
rainy season, as it is calld, does not commence much before No-
vember, at which time, and for three or four months after, the
land becomes so saturated with water, and the streams so swol-
len, that little passing is done by the citizens from one place to
another. -
Soon after the rainy season commences in the valleys, the
mountainous portions begin to be coverd with snow, and it con-
tinues to accumulate upon them at every successive storm, till
in many places the snow becomes nearly thirty feet deep, which
lasts until quite the latter part of the succeeding summer, before
it entirely disappears. - -
The winter seasons are very variable. During some of the
winters, the grasses of the valleys remain green, garden vege-
tables are verdant, and but little frost is seen. Others again,
for three months, the earth is bound up with frost, and the rivers
are frozen over of sufficient thickness to bear passages of
considerable burden. -
So far as the health of this country is concernd, it is true that

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON, 51
some sickness prevails, but it may be in a great measure owing
to the physical change in the physiology of the human system,
in passing from the States to a country so different in climate.
After emigrants become acclimated here, the blood becomes
of a bright scarlet red, being much more aerated or oxygenized
than exists in the system in any of the southern States of
America, and consequently better health may be inſerd. At
some seasons of the year, along some of the rivers, ague and fe-
ver exists, but it is generally of a very mild character, and med-
icine takes a speedy and salutary effect upon the human sys-
tem. -
The description of the climate here given of Oregon, being
applicable to the western division does not in all respects apply
to the two eastern divisions. The whole of Oregon lying east
of the Cascade range of mountains, is much drier, having less
rains at any time, than the portion lying west of them.
It is often quite cold in winter, and being very dry'in sum-
mer, renders it truly a desert country. -
The rivers of Oregon of any considerable notice, are well
known to most readers. Although Columbia river is much the
largest in the territory, and produces the greatest drainage of
any one, yet it does not by a considerable amount drain all of
the waters of Oregon that find their way to the Pacific ocean.
Green river, commencing at Fremont's peak, in the Wind river
mountains, is the principal source of the great Rio Colerado of
Calafornia. The great Sacramento of upper Calafornia, has
its principal source in Oregon. Other rivers though less in
size, yet nevertheless, rivers that are likely to become rivers of
considerable importance, indent the western coast, and furnish
their own drainage to the Pacific ocean. Those rivers which
fall most immediately under the notice of actual settlers of the
present day, are comprisd within the western division of Ore-
gon. They are Willamet, the Umpqua and the Klamet, with
their several tributaries. These rivers and their tributaries form
valleys of moderate extent, and furnish many tolerable good
farms to those who love a romantic life among the hills and
vales of an undulating country. Wheat, oats, neat cattle and
horses, are the principal sources of wealth which is derivá from

52 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
the soil at present. Indian corn is not much cultivated in Ore-
gon, its summers being too dry for corn to thrive well. The
swine of the country look well fattend upon wheat, but the ox
is mostly usd here for food.
I ought here to remark that the wheat of this country is of
a superior quality. It is free from all those attending evils very
common at the east, such as smut, rust and wheat sickness-
The weevil is not known here at present. The wheat of this
country grows with a very stiff stalk, which enables it to stand
erect for a great length of time. This furnishes the farmer dur-
ing the dry season of the year an opportunity to secure his
abundant crop.
The mineral resources of Oregon hitherto, have receivá but
little attention. Gold has been discoverd only sparingly.—
Copper is said to exist on the Cowlits, a small tributary to the
Columbia river, on the north of it, having its source in the di-
rection of Puget's sound.
Lead has of late been seen upon the Santyam. It is thought
by some persons that it may be obtaind there in considerable
quantities, but as the minds of the Oregon people are at present
directed to the gold mines of California, little attention will be
paid to mining operations at home. Iron exists in large quanti-
ties in the Cascade mountains. Along the emigrant route, I
have seen iron probably as rich as 80 per cent.
The soil of the whole division west of the Cascade range is
tingdof a reddish color by the red oxide of iron. This oxide
in some places is so abundant as to injure the soil. In other
places the soil is not materially injurd by it. In some places
along the rocky bluffs of some of the rivers, iron ore is quite
rich. I observd one of those places in the bluffs east of the
Willamet falls, at the south end of Oregon city, where the road,
leading to the top of the highest bluff is excavated. From my
my own observations in traveling over the western division, I
am confident that there is no lack of iron ore in almost every
part, and so soon as the inhabitants are ready to turn their at-
tention to it, their necessary supplies will be furnishd from their
ºwn county.
The next subject relative to the Oregon country is its geolog-

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 33
ical character. In remarking upon the geology of this country
several departments of the science are presented to view. First,
there are three ranges of mountains running nearly parallel with
each other from north to south.
The eastern range which bounds the eastern side of Oregon,
is along the dividing ridge of the American continent. If the
question be asked, why this dividing ridge? the geologist alone
attempts an answer. From the accumulation of facts hitherto
adducd of the liquidity of the earth's interior, and the discharge
for ages of its internal liquid matter upon the already formd
crust, it is evident that its nucleus must become less than at
first, and thereby produce a rigid and furrowd appearance of the
crust, by its conforming through the power of gravitation to a
lesser surface than that on which it was at first formd. Altho’
isolated peaks of mountain ranges may be formd by accumula-
tion of lava, and considerable districts may be raisd by the pres-
sure of gasses from beneath, yet so considerable an elevation as
the dividing ridge of the American continent can never be
formd in such a way.
Oregon is truly an uneven and mountainous country. It is
true that in passing from the dividing ridge westward, there are
a few situations where the traveler views the country around
him as apparently level, but this appearance continues on ad-
vancing along, but a short distance, till he is plunged into al-
most inextricable gulfs and deep ravines. The Blue mountains
or intermediate range between the dividing ridge and the Cas-
cade range, are of minor importance. They traverse no con-
siderable extent of country, nor are they very wide. They have
a volcanic appearance, and are strewd over with vescicular lava.
The Cascade range of mountains are more extensive, traver-
sing by different names the whole of Oregon and California, at
a distance of from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific ocean.
Some of its peaks are high and coverd with perpetual glaciers.
This range, like the dividing ridge, seems to have been elevated
by compression.
Between the Willamet valley and the ocean, is a range of
high hills calld the Coast range. These are too rugged to ad-
mit of cultivation.
54 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
The western shore of Oregon is rocky, and in many places
precipitous. If the theory that ocean beds are formd by undu-
lations in the earth's crust be true, the query might arise, Why
are ocean limits of precipitous rocks of the firmestimaterial, as is
the case with many of the ocean shores, and not a gradual slope
from the land downward to the bed of the ocean * If it be ad.
mitted that rivers are formd by the expansive force of gasses act.
ing beneath the earth's crust, it may be supposd that a fissure
by similar means may be formd parallel and near to the shore
of an ocean, so that its waters by their weight may produce a
subsidence of that portion lying under them, whilst that part op-
posite the fissure remaind stationary.
Oregon may be regarded as a primary country. Few fossili-
ferous rocks are seen in any part of it. I notica on the west
bank of Big Sandy creek, about thirty miles west of South pass.
a few fossiliferous shale rocks. I have not notic d any in oth-
er places, though they may exist sparingly. From the Ameri-
can falls on Snake river, for several hundred miles westward
the country is overlaid with a stratum of basaltic lava. This
seems to be the true basalt, and although the rocks of the Wil-
lamet river at Oregon city have been considerd by some as
basalt, from their extreme hardness, yet I have notica that the
surface of those rocks, after having been exposd to the weather,
become a mere sand rock, by the loss of the iron with which
they are impregnated. It is well known to mineralogists, that
iron becomes soluble by the action of the atmosphere upon it,
by which means water carries it from its parent bed to lower
levels, where it is depostied, under the name of bog ore. The
rocks at Oregon city consist of about three varieties of rock, dit-
fering not essentially in their properties, though some of them
appear to have been subjected to so high a degree of heat as to
render them somewhat crystaline or vitreous. The rocks at Ore-
gon city are so fully impregnated with iron, that the magnetic
needle, at some points along these rocks, is drawn aside from
its polar position. - -
From what information I have obtaind in addition to my own
observation respecting the rocks of Oregon, I am satisfied that
few rocks except those of a silicious formation, existhere. Along
-
-


DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 55
the Columbia river, near its mouth, are a few lime rocks of in-
ſerior quality. At the Cascade falls, are whole trees of silicious
petrefaction, showing distinctly the grains of the timber, and to
what kind they belongd.
As the Willamet river has hitherto attracted the attention of
actual settlers more than any other tributary of the Columbia
river, I have concluded to give a more particular description of
it than any other one belonging to the Western division of Ore-
gon. From its confluence with the Columbia to the high coun-
try of its sources, the Willamet traverses a distance of about
two hundred miles in extent. Its union with the Columbia is
not much short of one hundred miles from the ocean. At the
mouth of the Willamet, is a delta fifteen or twenty miles in
length, calld Souvie's island, running nearly parallel with the
Columbia. This island was formerly the residence of immense
numbers of Indians. The Hudson Bay Company at present
occupy it for farming purposes. At the eastern or upper mouth
of the Willamet, are one or two other small deltas, though of
no importance. - - - º
About fifteen miles from the Columbia, on the west bank of
the Willamet, is a small town calld Portland. Ships of consid-
erable burden visit this place for their lading.
Five miles farther up, on the east side, is a town newly laid
out by Mr. Lot Whitcomb, calld Milwaukie. Vessels of gon-
siderable size can sail as far up as this place.
Seven or eight miles farther up, on the east side, is a tributary
calld Clacamas. Its waters flow from the Cascade mountains.
At the mouth of this tributary are rapids, which prevent ships
rom sailing up to Oregon city. -
One mile farther up, is Oregon city on the east side, and
Lynn eity on the west side of the Willamet river. Between
these two places is a bay, the waters of which arc between three
and four hundred feet deep. The width of the bay is about
thirty rods, near the upper end at the crossing, and gradually
widens downward to the Clackamas rapids,
Oregon city at present is built entirely upon the first terrace
Above the waters of the bay, and being so narrow that there is
ºut one street that passes through the town lengthwise, except-
-

j6 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
ing a Water street along the shore of the bay. East of the pres-
ent town and contiguous to it, is a precipitous range of rocks,
one hundred feet high from Main street, and so near to it that
there is but just room enough for the accommodation of build-
ings with some very small gardens. On the top of this bluff,
which is a second terrace from the waters of the river, the sur-
veys for the town are extended, but no buildings have yet been
erected there. Still back of this at a short distance, is a third
terrace, elevated in hight equal to the surrounding country.
Oregon city is a new town, containing about 150 buildings,
two saw mills, one of which is a double mill, and two grist mills.
At each of these mills, water enough is wasted to carry four
other mills. I think I may justly say, that there is water power
enough at Oregon city to carry five hundred grist mills. It
seems, on taking a view of the natural dam at the upper end of
Oregon city, that when the fissure now constituting the river
was formd, the paroxysmal effort from beneath causd a lateral
dismemberment of some of the rocks along the sides of the
fissure, and upon sliding down chokd up the chasm from one
side to the other. Below the falls, the terrace on which the
town stands seems to have taken a similar slide, but being filld
in part with rubbish beneath, prevented an entire union of the
rocks, leaving the chasm now constituting the bay.
The waters of the falls are precipitated over the cragged rocks
at several different places, foaming and tumbling with tremen-
dous roar, to the depth of thirty feet into the waters of the bay
below.
About one mile and a half above the falls, on the west side of
the river, is the small tributary calld Twality, issuing from the
coast range.
Two or three miles farther up, is another slide of rocks, which
chokes up the entire stream, with the exception of a small chasm
or two, too narrow to admit boats of any considerable size to
pass.
About twelve miles above Oregon city, on the east side of
the river, Molala and Pudding river waters unite with the Wil,
lamet. These two tributaries have good supplies of water for
mills. After having collected their waters from the hilly coul-

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 57.
try east, they meander about over the land, and finally empty
into the Willamet at one place.
About thirty miles above Oregon city, Yam creek unites with
the Willamet, on its west side, watering the country from the
coast range in two separate branches, till within about ten miles
of the Willamet, where they unite and form one.
Salem, a small town on the east side of the Willamet, about
forty-five miles above Oregon city, is the site of the missionary,
Mr. Lee, of the Methodist order, now no more. At this place,
is a classical school of considerable merit, the only one of im-
portance in Oregon territory. -
Rickreyall aná Luckamute, on the west side of Willamet,
contribute to its waters, but little above Salem.
Still farther up, and not more than eight or ten miles above
Salem or the Institute as some call it, on the east side of the
Willamet, is the Santyam, a stream of considerable importance,
the principal branch of which flows from Mount Jefferson, one
of the glacial peaks of the Cascade range. The course of this
river from Mount Jefferson to its union with the Willamet, is
not more than about forty miles.
Other tributaries of some importance still farther up, flow
into the Willamet, on both sides of it, till arriving at the high
country of their sources, where they ramify in all directions.
Leaving the subject of the Willamet river, I pass on to a de-
scription of the forests and animals of Oregon.
-º-
CHAPTER VIII.
Forests and Animals of Oregon.
Between the South pass and the Blue mountains, across the
Pastern division of Oregon, no forests encostume the earth, to
emit their fragrant odors to cheer and exhilarate the weary and
thirsty traveler, except on the Bear River mountains, a few iso-

58 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
lated peaks scatterd over that barren region. Along the streams
occasionally, however, are seen an inferior growth of timber
and shrubbery of various kinds. The Blue mountains afford
some dense clusters of timber of yellow pine, spruce-hemlock,
and some fir. They do not, however, soar to the amazing hight
of some of the trees of the Cascade mountains and the Western
division. The Middle division is still more destitute of timber
than the Eastern.
From the eastern side of the Cascade mountains westward to
the Pacific ocean, the country is mostly coverd with timber.
Many of the forests are so thickly set with under-brush, that
they are with difficulty penetrated. Here, the fir is the most
prevalent. Hemlock, cedar, soft or white maple as it is some-
times calld, oak and many other kinds of timber, are found in this
division.
Timber of the same name with that of other countries, has a
growth dissimilar. I have seen Laurel from one to two feetin
diameter, and probably more than thirty feet high. Oak is gen-
erally inferior and scrubby, Hazel is sometimes from five to
six inches in diameter, though it is commonly from one to two
inches in diameter, being the only article of which hoops for bar-
rels are made. Its hight is sometimes from twenty to twenty-
five feet. Elder is often six inches in diameter, and from twenty
to thirty feet high, -
The largest tree I have seen in Oregon is a hemlock, stand-
ing near the shore of Young's bay, a little below the confluence
of Young's with the Lewis and Clark's river, about two miles
above their entrance into the Columbia, and about one mile
and a half a little west of south from Astoria. This tree is
about two hundred feet in hight, and measures, six feet from
the ground, thirty-four and a half feet in circumference. The
tallest tree that I have been enabla to measure, is in Oregon
city. Its hight is about two hundred and seventy feet. I am,
however, of opinion that taller timber may be seen at the foot
of Laurel hill, in the Cascade mountains. -
The trees of this country in many places are coverd with
moss, I have notica that the timber of evergreen countries is
more commonly burdend with moss than those where defolia-

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 59
tion is general. Hence, I am of opinion that Oregon will not be
a very good country for fruit. I have observd that apple trees
soon cover with moss, and appear of an inferior growth.
Among the native animals of this country, some of them are
ferocious. The bear, tiger, panther and wolf, are of this class.
The deer, the beaver and elk, are also natives of this country.
The ferocious are sometimes known to attack the traveler, though
it is not common. Those of the milder and gregarious classes
obtain their support mostly from the bunch grass of the prairies.
It may here be remarkd, that no grass of this country, except
along some of the river bottoms, grows in any other way than
in the form of bunches, with intermediate spaces of several
inches, and often of several feet. -
CHAPTER IX.
Magnetic Poles of the Earth–Variation of the Magnetic Needle-Phenomena of
the Northern Lights. -
* CAPTAIN Ross, an English navigator, left England abou
twenty years ago, in pursuit of the north magnetical pole. He
followd the magnetical needle, directing its course westwardly
till he arriva at Baffin's bay in America, where he left his ship
and traveld about two hundred miles still farther west, at which
place he determind to be the north magnetic pole. This point
being several hundred miles south of the north geographical
pole, determines its opposite or south magnetical pole to be an
equal distance north of the south geographical pole, though on
the opposite side of the earth.
From the north magnetic pole southward, the line of coinci-
dence, or line of no variation as it is sometimes calld, passes
through Hudson's bay, the state of Michigan, Ohio, and the
several states lying south of these. This line forms a perfect

60 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
circle around the earth, and the magnetic needle at any place on
the earth within this circle will point directly through the mag-
netical poles coincident with the extreme points of the earth's
geographical axis. The magnetic needle along this line is
sometimes subject to slight vascillations, in consequence of the
fluctuations of electricity occasiond by the heat of the sun, or
geological differences of the earth's surface.
The variation of the magnetic needle in Oregon, among other
things, has attracted my attention. Surveyors of this country
tell me that the magnetical needle varies to the right of the geo-
graphical pole about 19 deg, and 20 min. Some, however,
have observd in different places a variation of more than 20 de-
grees. This difference may be accounted for, by the great
amount of iron disseminated through the country. -
I have taken the trouble to draw a diagram of a section of
the earth, to ascertain what the variation of the magnetic needle
would be geometrically, at Oregon city. This corresponds, to
a considerable degree of nearness, with experiments made with
the compass. Concerning the depth to which the magnetic
pole is seated in the earth, I have no means of ascertaining.
This could best be done with a dipping needle along the line of
no variation, at a suitable distance from the equator, so that the
north end of the needle may have a perfect freedom of dip.
Let the distance be ascertaind from the observer to the north
magnetic pole, as manifested at the surface, which differs not
much from two hundred miles, west of Baffin's bay. This dis-
tance may form the base line of a right-angled triangle. Let
the surface angle at the magnetic pole be the right angle, and
the dipping needle will show the angle at the place of the ob-
server between the line on the surface of the earth and the line
made by the dip. The observer then has a right-angled trian-
gle, with sufficient data to ascertain at what depth the magnetic
pole lies below the surface of the earth.
It would be gratifying to me, if some philosopher along the
line of coincidence would take the trouble to ascertain the depth
of the magnetic pole, and publish his experiments. Possibly,
some day, a knowledge of that fact may add to the light of
science.

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 6.
The reasons why the magnetic needle at some places on the
earth has a stationary variation from the geographical pole, and
at others an annual movable variation, seems by some to be not
easily accounted for, but I am of opinion that the same reasons
may be assigned for the stationary position of the needle that
are assigned for the stationary appearance of a planet in its or-
bit around the sun.
The motion of the magnetic pole around the earth, to an ob-
server at any one point on the earth, as at London at present,
presents during its whole circuit two stationary points or ex-
tremes to the left in its forward, and to the right in its retrograde
movement. The extreme slowness of the magnetic pole round
the earth, causes the stationary variation of the needle to remain
nearly the same for a great many years. Hence so long as the
magnetic pole continues to revolve around the earth, every other
place on the earth will give in its turn a stationary and an annual
variation.
Soon after my arrival at Oregon city, in the fall of the year,
| observd that the central portion of that body of light calld Au-
rora Borealis, was as much to the right of the north geographical
pole as the variation of the magnetic needle. I was then led
to conclude that it was a constant attendant upon the north mag-
netical pole, moving westward gradually as the magnetic pole
advances in that direction.
Very evidently the Northern Lights are occasiºd by emis-
sions of electrical light flowing from the great amount of electri-
city concentrated at the north magnetical pole.
33,333-
CHAPTER X.
Curiosities of Oregon.
It is difficult to tell, in making out a history of a country,
what would be a curiosity and what would not, to readers that

62 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON,
are familiar with descriptions of country scenery. I have select.
ed a few that are considered by some as curiosities, as follows.
Mount Hood and its glacial sisters.
Bear Lake of Bear River.
Soda Springs.
Hot Springs.
Cascade Falls.
Mount Hood is one of the glacial peaks of the Cascade range
of mountains. It is situated about 50 miles a little south of
east from Oregon city, from whose vicinity it can be seen, and
about 30 miles south of the Columbia river. Its height above
tide water is about 11,721 feet. Rain seldom falls upon this
mountain. Whenever it is enveloped by clouds, their contents
are generally deposited in the form of snow, And in the sum-
mer season, the spectator from a neighboring mountain may
frequently see it glistening with a brilliant white covering of
snow, when only a few minutes before it had presented a mot-
tled appearance of naked precipitous rocks, glacial prominences,
huge caverns and deep ravines, so rapid is the passage of the
clouds across the summit of this mountain, Alternately, during
the summer season,the top of this mountain is coverd with clouds
and then illuminated with a brilliant sun through a transparent
sky During the short season of repose from storms, the sun
pours down its intense rays upon those snows and prominent
glaciers, reducing them to water, which on its passage down-
ward, especially in the hottest of the summer season, frequently
deluges the whole base of the mountain, overturning and sub-
merging to a considerable depth beneath rocks and sand bars,
many of the most lofty and gigantic trees growing at the base
and along the valley below.
On ascending this mountain, as the traveler arrives at the
line of perpetual frost, he sees no verdure of any kind, Ani-
mals can only live to skirt across some of its lowest glaciers to
other mountains more friendly to contribute to their support,
Still advancing upward, the glaciers become more steep, till
they with the walls of precipitous rocks, bid entire defiance to
an ascension to the top of this interesting mountain.
DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 6:3
In some of the lowest glaciers of Mount Hood are glacial
eaverns, several hundred feet deep, coverd from sight with some-
times only a thin eovering of ice, with scarcely sufficient strength
to sustain the weight of a man.
Mount Hood is a sample of the immense disintegrating pow-
er of glacio-aqueous agency. It cannot be expected that other-
wise than great disintegrating power should exist where there
are constant alternations of frost and water upon rock, as is the
case upon Mount Hood. From this mountain flow severalim-
portant streams of water, all of which, I believe, are constantly
filled with a thick sediment of disintegrated rock.
Mount Hood on the east furnishes a considerable arm of De-
shutes river. On the west, a large stream calld Sandy creek,
and a part of Clackamas, Sandy, after a few miles of westerly
course, runs north and falls into the Columbia river, a little be-
low the Cascade falls. Another important stream calld Dog
river, flows to the north and empties into the Columbia river
above the Cascade falls. In fine, Mount Hood sits as queen
of mountains within its vicinity, and being located centrally
within that vast range of mountains, and elevated so much
above all others as it is, must necessarily distribute its waters
on all sides, breaking their way and bursting their barriers
through other mountains of inferior size, till they are finally dis-
charged into the ocean.
Mount Jefferson, another glacial peak, is situated centrally in
the Cascade range of mountains, about 50 miles nearly south
of Mount Hood, and about 40 miles east of the Willamet river.
This glacier, as well as Mount Hood, contributes to the waters
of Deshutes on the east, and the Willamet on the west. Its
character is similar in most respects to Mount Hood, though
somewhat inferior in size.
Mount St. Helen, on the north side of the Columbia river and
about forty miles from it, is another high towring glacier of the
Cascade range. This mountain, as seen from Oregon city,
pierces the well in high above the horizon around. Citizens of
this country say that there are occasional emissions of smoke
from its summit, though no lava of late has been seen flowing
down its declivities. No successful attempt has been made to


64 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
climb this mountain, to ascertain the size and appearance of its
erater. It is the only one in this region that appears at present
to show signs of volcanic activity.
Mount Rainier and St. Baker, still farther north along the
Cascade range, are similar in character, less in size, and not
very well known. -
Bear lake and the Mineral springs are next to receive atten-
tion as curiosities. -
Twelve or thirteen miles west of Thomas' fork of Bear river,
is an extensive bottom of Bear river, where is a lake of un-
known depth, and about three miles in width. Across this lake
is a bar of earth, extending entirely from one bank to its oppo-
site, rising about three feet above the waters of the lake, and
wide enough for wagons to pass. This lake is a short distance
above the confluence of its waters with Bear river. Its waters
come from the mountains south of the lake, and are dischargd
by percolation through this bar into the lake below it. From
what I have seen of beaver dams in West Oregon, I am inclind
to think this bar was made by those animals.
The Soda springs at Bear river, sixty-five miles east of Fort
Hall, are considerd by some persons a curiosity. The bottoms
of Bear river, at the springs and for several miles in extent along
the emigrant route, appear to be cavermous. In the vicinity of
the springs where most of them are located, emissions of gasses
are observa from the surface of the land, and oftentimes with a
considerable explosion. The springs likewise are constantly
emitting gasses from them, as noticd by the bubbling of the
water. The river at this place appears like a boiling pot.
The water of these springs is quite sedimentary. Numerous
cones of silent springs are seen all around, occasiond by con-
stant accumulations from the sediment of the waters. Some of
the springs form craters or basin-shapd tops of several feet in
diameter. These springs, after having been active a great num-
ber of years, choke up their orifices, and become silent. One
which I saw on the bank of the river, calld by some the Steam-
boat spring, had nearly ceasd to flow. Its dying groans remind:

DESCRIPTION OF OREGON. 65
ed me of a dying butcherd animal. Many of the springs are
intermittent of a few seconds alternately. So soon as the gasses
are sufficiently accumulated beneath, they are dischargd, often
throwing the water to several feet.
Some of these springs are too alkaline to be pleasant to the
taste, or even healthy. Others again, have a sufficient amount
of acid in combination to render them tolerably pleasant. I be-
lieve, however, that none of them are as pleasant as the artificial
soda of our shops.
About fifty miles east of Fort Boyce, along the south side of
Snake river and near to it, are hot springs issuing from the
plains. At their sources, they are scalding hot. Not far dis-
tant from these, on the north side of Snake river, are other simi-
lar springs. Fifteen or sixteen miles west of Fort Boyce, at
the crossing of Malheur on the emigrant road, are other springs,
some of which are so hot that a man cannot bear his hand in
them two seconds. All of the hot springs are sulphurous.
From the volcanic character of a great portion of the country
lying west of the dividing ridge of the American continent, it
may probably be inferd that the water of these springs is heated
by internal fires, not very deep-seated.
The Cascade falls are notica by some travelers as worthy of
attention. Some remarks relative to them may not be altogeth-
er uninteresting, as well also to correct some errors of former
writers.
Mr. Eby, a late visitor of the falls, informd me that the coun-
try above the cascade is so nearly on a level with the country
below, that were the rocks that choke up the river at the cas.
cade removd, the water of the river would flow as smoothly and
with as little apparent fall, as it does for miles above or below
that place.
Immediately above the falls is an apparent subsidence of ma-
ny acres of timberd land, so that the trees are standing in very
deep water. But few of them at present remain. Visitors of
the present day are of the opinion that the apparent subsidence
is not one * reality, and that the place now submerged was
º
66 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON.
once a bottom land, coverd with a dense growth of fir, and as
the rocks precipitated from their stupendous columns into the
river at that place, the waters were gradually damd up, so as to
overflow the bottom of the river above,
The timber there submergd has become of a siliceous pet-
refaction, showing the grains of the timber as perfectly as if no
such petrefaction had taken place.
After closing my remarks relative to the natural scenery of
Oregon, I am led to suggest some ideas concerning the poor,
degraded, primitive man of the country,
-

INDIANS OF OREGON.
CHAPTER XI.
Their Customs, Habits and Character.
The Indians of Oregon, notwithstanding the exertions that
have been made to improve their condition, are still a degraded
race of semi-human beings, rapidly approaching to total extinc-
tion. Such is the proneness of the human race to indolence
and vice, that it requires the whole of a short life to make any
considerable advances towards an improvement in his natural
or mental condition, even amongst the most favord portions of
the human family.
The Indian does not appear to have the most distant concep-
tions of any moral obligation towards another. He is prompt-
ed by tradition more than by a sense of duty, and the more he
becomes enlightend, the more he becomes alive to vice.
The fox, taken from its lair in an infantile state, is only reard
and shown to the lodgings of the domestic fowl of the barn-
yard, ere he escapes from the hands of his benefactor, with his
prey, to his distant and secret abode, amongst the thicket of the
forest. So the Indian. Point him to the comforts and enjoy-
ments of a domestic life, and he looks upon them with indiffer-
ence and disdain. Teach him that from the plow is derivd his
food, and that in due time he may reap if he faint not, and yet
if he is hungry he will resort to the potato patch of his neighbor
and dig them all up so soon as they are planted, leaving his fu-
ture well-being to the fates.
There is but little confidence reposd in each other respecting


68 - INDIANS OF OREGON.
the safe-keeping of property, and it is impossible to make an In-
dian believe that it is morally wrong to steal. The only thing
that prevents them from stealing, is the probability of being de-
tected and punishd for it, and that Indian is smartest, who is
keenest at the business.
At present, the few remaining Indians of Oregon are in a
worse condition than before the whites settled amongst them.
Formerly, they depended entirely on furs to keep them warm
during the inclement season of the year, but now they are partly
clad in skins and partly in garments nearly worn out, sold them
by the whites for a trifling amount of labor, or such other pay
as is agreed upon. With these, they are often amusingly and
fantastically dressd. A man is sometimes seen wearing a bon-
net, wrong side before. Sometimes a woman is seen wearing
a man's shirt, and others, again, are seen wearing a dress, revers-
ed. Sometimes, in the summer season, it would puzzle a Phila-
delphia lawyer to tell what kind of a dress they do wear, or
whether
At present, there are probably not more than twenty-five In-
dians, who consider the Willamet valley their home, though
others, from the upper country of the Columbia, resort to Ore-
gon city to winter, because they can obtain support during that
season more readily, where abundant supplies can be had at all
times.
The mode of doctoring, when any prevalent disease is among
them, has a tendency rapidly to depreciate their numbers. It
is done by heating the system as hot as they can bear, in ovens
made for that purpose, along the banks of streams, where the
patient is shut in for several minutes, with heated pebbles, until
he obtains a thorough sweat. He then rushes to the stream and
plunges into the water, which cools the system so suddenly, that
hundreds live to try the experiment but a few times.
Another depopulating mode of conduct is practică amongst
some of the tribes, which is that of flattening the head. The
opinion that the Great Spirit can better distinguish between the
aristocrat and his slave, in another world, has led to the practice
of flattening the heads of the aristocracy, and leaving the heads
of their slaves natural. This practice is common only amongst

INDIANS OF OREGON. 69
some of the tribes of the Western valley. Those Indians of
the upper country, nominally Flat Heads, are so only in deri-
sion.
The mode of flattening the head, is to take the infant, at
the first dawn of its existence, and lash firmly to its back a
board, somewhat longer than the child and of suitable width,
probably eight or ten inches, for it to lie upon when placd in a
prostrate position. Its arms are brought downward to this board,
and lashd so firmly that the infant cannot stir them. The board
at its back reaches two or three inches above the head, so that
the board which serves for flattening the head, being fastend to
the top of this, is brought over the head forward to the edge of
the brow. To the edges of this are fastend small cords, that are
brought back and fastend to the board behind. These cords
are drawn so tight that the board on the head forms an acute
angle at the top, with the board on its back. In this position,
the miserable infant is kept more than three months, languishing
for want of action. Sometimes, the blood gushes out from the
nostrils and ears, from the severe pressure of ºne board.
But few survive the operation. When the operation is fully
accomplishd, the head is flattend from the brow to the top of
the head, though sometimes, in after life, it becomes a little
raisd at the fontanelle and cross sutures.
An Indian can be 'aught to pray, and, in fact, they do often
pray to their Tyee, or Big Spirit, as they call him, that he will
give them a supply of venison and other present supplies—but
what may be considerd a change of heart, is entirely foreign to
an Indian.
A few years ºf ſo, at the station of Mr. Lee, upon the Willamet
river, there waſ a revival of religion, amongst whom were a con-
siderable numer of Indians. The whites succeeded in getting
them to pray or awhile, but after they had prayd long enough,
as they supposd, for a good lot of blankets, they began to call
for them. The whites told them that they must not pray in that
way. They replied, that they would not pray for them any
more, if they would not pay them for what they had done.
- The Inlians at Dr. Whitman's station, on the Walla Walla
river, have manifested, in their conduct towards him, what may

70 1NDIANS OF OREGON.
truly be considerd traits of Indian character. Like a venomous
serpent, that bites the hand that feeds it, so the Indians of that
country, after incessant toil of ten or twelve years, to teach them
husbandry and the various comforts of domestic life, stretchd
forth their cruel hands, upon the 29th of November, 1847, and
murdered himself and family.
have long been of the opinion, that it is useless to send mis-
sionaries to barbarous races of men, for the sake of Christian-
izing them, or even civilizing them. The only benefit arising
from an operation of that kind, is to furnish a foothold for the
enterprising white man, who may follow the steps of the mis-
sionary, to seek a new home, where he may display his wis-
dom, in beautifying and improving the face of nature. Whom
God has cursd, he is cursd, and whom God has blessd, truly is
blessa,
Soon alter the massacre of Dr. Whitman, the authorities of
Oregon advisa all the missionaries of the upper country to leave
their fields of operation, which they did, with the exception of
Roman Catholics, who have some localities there.
It is difficult to determine what brought events to such a crisis
as that of the death of Dr. Whitman. It is supposd by some,
that the Roman Catholics sought an advantage to break up the
Protestants at that place, by making the Indians believe that the
whites were endeavoring to exterminate them, by introducing
disease among them.
On their way to the Western valley of Oregon, some of the
emigrants, who were afflicted with the measles, passd through
Dr. Whitman's place, and imparted them to the Indians, from
which cause, many of them died.
The Indians are great believers in sorcery. They are of the
opinion, that the man who has power to cure, has also power to
kill, by means of witchcraft. From this belief, has arisen the
custom amongst the Indians, of killing their doctors, when any
of their patients do not recover. -
Before closing the subject of the Oregon Indians, I have seen
fit to insert Mr. Spalding's account of Dr. Whitman's death, as
given him by his own daughter, who was present during the
distressing event, which is given by him as follows.

WAIILATPU MASSACRE,
→s**Gºssesse-
CHAPTER XII.
Account of the murder of Dr. Whitman, as given by Rev. H. H. Spalding
In this communication I will commence the history of the
bloody tragedy of the 29th of November at Waiilatpu, In all
such massacres there is usually one or more escapes to tell the
dreadful tale. It would seem God rescued me from the mur-
derer's hand, to perform this painful office. May kind Heaven
grant that it may never again be my painful duty to record alike
tragedy. May the friends of missions never again be calld up-
on to supply the places of their missionaries, cut down by the
hands of those to whom they may be sent with the blessings of
the gospel of peace. Especially may the dreadful act not again
be done by the hands of those who have been baptized in the
name of the sacred Trinity, and introducd into the Christian
church. Considering all the circumstances which attended the
massacre at Waiilatpu, I think it stands first on the catalogue of
Indian crimes. The massacres committed in the first settle-
ments of America, were the acts of uncivilizd, unchristianizd
heathens. The much lamented Dr. Whitman and esteem.dlady
and those who fell with them, were murderd by the Cayuse In-
dians, who wishd to be regarded a christianizd people, strictly
honest, particularly friendly to the Americans, having adopted
the habits of civilizd life—with whom my departed brother and
sister had labord for more than eleven years, had been the
means under God of introducing among them numerous herds
of cattle, of planting fields of grain all through the country,

72 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
".
had deliverd them from their former precarious source of sub-
sistence roots and fish, and in their place, furnishd them, or
causd them to possess in abundance, all the comforts of life,
various grains, vegetables, milk, butter, beef, plows, &c. They
had been indefatigable in their labors, to instruct them in the
principles of the Christian religion and to introduce schools.
The Cayuse had become a praying people. In almost every
lodge the family altar was erected. No doubt on the morning
of the bloody 29th, the murderers were scrupulous to observe
their morning devotions, again at evening, while the dead bodies
of the slain lay about unburied, the food of the fowls of heaven
and the beasts of the earth.
One of the actors of this horrible scene was a member of our
church, and while he held one of the captives as his wife, the
sport of his brutal passions, he was careful to have morning and
evening prayer and to read a portion of scripture from his book,
which we printed while he was in our school at Clear Water.
Their sick and dead had ever been the peculiar care and re-
ceivd the devoted attention of their missionaries. Yes my be:
loved associates, whose hands had so often furnishd winding
sheets and coffins for their dead, were denied coffins and even
a resting-place under the earth by this same professed Christian
people. Such are the people who have committed the horrible
murders of which it has become my painful duty to write—
Such the end of the once promising mission among the Cayuse
Indians.
On the 18th of November Mr. Jackson, my daughter Eliza,
ten years of age, and myself, left my place for Waiilatpu, My
object was to spend a few weeks with Dr. Whitman, visiting
his people, preaching, assisting him in his labors with the sick
and dying. We were anxious to be present at some of the
meetings which the Catholic priests were holding with the In-
dians to obtain locations near Waiilatpu, and to persuade the
priests if possible, to allow the Indians to say whether Catholic
or Protestant missionaries should remain among them. Should
the Indians prefer the Catholic missionaries, we would them and
ever been ready to leave the country and allow them to occupy
The field unmolested. But should the Indians prefer that the

WAMILATPU MASSACRE. 73
-
Protestant missionaries should continue, we have ever felt the
Catholies ought to leave us undisturbed. We have ever felt
that unprotected by law, we could not be safe should the Cath-
olics come into our field. -
The feelings of the Indians were, that both missionaries could
not occupy the same field. The Rev. Mr. Josette of the upper
Catholic mission requested of the Nez Perces, two years ago.
a location near my station. The principal chief Ellis said, “It
will do for the French and English to have two religions, as
they have laws, but for Indians who have no laws, it will not
do. We have one religion with which we are satisfied. If the
Catholics come in, there will he fighting immediately.”
We have held ourselves ready to leave the country whenever
the Indians as a body wishd it. Dr. Whitman twice during
the last year calld the Cayuse together and told them if a ma-
jority wishd he would leave the country at once. The Cayuse
chiefs unanimously said he must not leave, and among them
were the principal persons who have staind their hands in his
blood. Dr. W. held himself ready to sell the Waiilatpu station
to the Catholic mission whenever a majority of the Cayuse.
might wish it, provided that mission might wish to purchase it
and the other stations, and the mission might agree. I am not
aware that the Catholic mission ever applied to Dr. Whitman
to purchase the Waiilatpu station. However that may be, he
would have provd recreant to the trust committed to him by the
American Board, had he sold the station or left it unless desird
by a majority of the people.
A few days before I arrivd at Waiilatpu, the bishop and his
priests had held a meeting with the Cayuse at Walla-walla and
laid before them again their wish to obtain a location near the
doctor's station. Capt. Murray informs me that he was present
at that meeting, and that Tamtsaky and Telapkaikt, said to the
bishop, “That they would give him a station already furnishd
with buildings, mills, fences, &c., that it was the one occupied
by Dr. Whitman, that the doctor was a bad man and they were
going to get rid of him.” The bishop objeeted to taking the
doctor's place. They then told him to come up and they would
show him a place. Accordingly, the bishop or one of his

74 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
-
priests did so, and a place was selected about four miles from
the doctor's station.
On learning this, a Cayuse chief said to Telaukaikt, “Have
you allowd the Catholic priest to select a location?” the answer
was “Yes”. The chief replied, with this strong language of
rebuke, “Why did you not put the priest in the doctor's house
at once?” that is, as understood by the Indians, “why did you
not kill the doctor at once and give his property to the priests?”
This last statement I receivd from my fallen brother the week
before his death, who said, in view of this and other alarming
movements of the Catholics, “Now if the Indians do not allow
us to leave, my days are few, but if I am to fall by Catholic in-
fluence, I believe my death will do as much good for Oregon
as my life can.”
I arrivd at the station Nov. 22d. The doctor's large family
had been sick with the measles, and three of the children were
still dangerously ill, Mr. Osborn and his whole family were
sick with the same disease. Many of the other white families
at the station were just taking the measles. The Indians were
sorely afflicted, dying every day, one, two, and sometimes five
in a day, with the dysentery which very generally followd the
measles. On the 24th Mr. Osborn's second child died. Mrs.
Osborn and her youngest child continued very low. -
As we are approaching the eve of the awful tragedy, I will
here notice the white persons living at the station at the time
of the massacre. The doctor's family consisted of himself and
lady, Mr. Rogers, formerly our school teacher, now studying
with a view to join our mission, Mr. and Miss Rewley, the for-
mer very sick at the time, seven orphan children of one family
by the name of Sager, (father and mother died crossing the
mountains in 1844.) the two daughters of Mr. Bridger and Mr.
Meek, a half-breed Spanish boy, whom the doctor had brought
up from infancy, and bound to the doctor by his father, and the
two sons of Mr. Manson of the H. B. Co.
The following are the names of the families, their number
and occupation, viz. Mr. Osborn millwright, Mrs. Osborn and
three children, Mr. Camfield blacksmith, Mrs. Camfield and
five children, Mr. Hall employd building store-houses for the

WAIILATPU MASSACRE- 75
Indians, Mrs. Hall and five children, Mr. Saunders school-
teacher, Mrs. Saunders and five children, Mr. Marsh miller, one
child, Mrs. Hayse and two children. At the saw-mill, twenty
miles distant, Mr. Young mechanic, Mrs. Young, three sons
young men, Mr. Smith cutting saw-logs, Mrs. Smith and five
children, Mr. Hoffman employd in getting wheat for the Indi-
ans, Mr. Sails sick, Mr. Gillian tailor.
Most of these, contrary to the wish of the doctor, had stopd
at the station to winter on account of weak teams or sickness.
The doctor had been at considerable expense in exploring a new
route from the Utilla to the Dalls, which avoided the sands and
heavy hills of the Columbia river, led through good grass, and a
nearer route. He was very solicitous to persuade as many of
the emigration as possible to pass on to the Dalls, fearful that
sickness and weak teams would compel more to stop at the sta-
tion than he could procure provisions for. I had already packd
over from my station, seventeen horse-loads of grain, expected
to pack more, from time to time through the winter.
Very many who were persuaded to pass on to the lower
country, felt rather hard at the doctor at the time, for not allow-
ing them to stop. I thought myself he was over anxious. He
is not to be blamd for the number of Americans that were win-
tering at his station, if any blame is to be attachd to this circum-
stance, but there is none, plainly because a number of Ameri-
cans' wintering at Waiilatpu had nothing to do in bringing
about the massacre. To insinuate otherwise, is a base slander
upon the American character. That such insinuations, howev-
er, have gone forth, I am aware, but it is for no other purpose
than to divert public attention from the true causes, and fasten
it upon what was not the cause. If Americans were the cause,
why were all the Americans killd? while the Catholics, down
to the smallest child, were spard, caresd and permitted to dwell
among the murderers to this day unharmd, and even now are
commencing new stations among the Indians, while the last
families of our American missionaries are being removd from
the country by an escort from the army? The insinuation is as
base and cruel as it is absurd.
There were also at the station three others who claimed to be

76 w AIILATPU MASSACRE.
Roman Catholics, names, Nicholas Finley, Joseph Stanfield,
Jo Lewis. The two latter were in the employ of Dr. Whit-
man. Joseph Stanfield, a Canadian, had crossed the moun-
tains in 46, had been in the employ of the doctor from that time.
At his trial before Judge Wheeler two of the widows testified
that Stanfield told them that he knew in the morning that the
massacre was to take place that day. On being taken by the
sheriff, he attempted to secrete a watch which belongd to one
of the widows, also considerable money belonging to one of the
murdered young men. Jo Lewis came into the country with
the last emigration, at least from Fort Hall. Much uncertainty
hangs about this individual. To the mission he claimd to be
an Indian, born in Canada, of the Catholic faith, brought up in
the state of Maine, had spent some time in California. Among
the Indians he passd himself as a Chenook of the Catholic
faith, said that formerly the Americans (Protestants as under-
stood in most instances of late by the word Suyapu) by ships
brought poison to the lower country with a view to destroy all
the Indians. Vast multitudes were destroyd, as their old men
very well recollect–referring doubtless to the small-pox and
measels which raged throughout the territory some 35 or 40
years ago. He, being a small child, was reserved by the Amer-
icans taken to the States, where he had grown up, ever mindful
of his native country, and anxious to return to his own people.
He told the Indians that he took particular notice of the letters
of the Dr. and myself, from this country, told them that some
of these letters spoke of this vast country every way desirable
for settlements, its healthy climate, its rich soil, the bands of
horses. Some of the letters calld for poisons by which we
could sweep of the Indians, and make way for the Americans.
In accordance with this request, he said, several bottles of poi-
son had been brought over by the last emigration, which had
caused many deaths among the immigrants, and was the cause
of the sore sickness and frequent deaths among the Indians,
and would soon kill them all if the Dr. and his lady and my-
self were not removd. This I receiva from Stikas in his lodge
24 hours after the butchery had taken place.
It seems that immediately on my arriving, Lewis set himself

waiti, ATPU MASSACRE, 77
to excite the Indians to do the dreadful deed. He told them
that he overheard the Dr. and myself consulting at night as to
the most effectual way to kill of the Indians.
Such statements following like statements which have been
sounding in our ears, and in the ears of Indians for years, and
made with so much apparent solicitude for them, and at this
time of great excitement among the Indians, on account of the
measles, had doubtless much to do in bringing about the bloody
tragedy. He took an active part in the murders—was seen by
Mr. Camfield, from his place of retreat, to go up to the window
in company with Tamtsaky, and beat them in, and soon after,
to bring out goods.
Several times before Mrs. Whitman receiva her first wound,
and after the doctor was senseless, Jo showd himself at the win-
dow with a gun in his hand. When Mrs. Whitman would
speak to him, he would immediately go away. He brought
the children down from the school room, and collected them
in the kitchen, to be shot. When the chief gave orders not to
shoot the children, and just as Mrs. Whitman was brought out
upon the settee, where she receivil her mortal wounds, an Indi-
an seizd Francis by the head, dragd him out from among the
children, to the door of the Indian room, where Jo with his
own hand, shot him.
The object of Lewis was doubtless plunder. Finley has a
Cayuse, or Walla-walla wife, was campd near the doctor's. In
his lodge, the murderers held their councils during the massa-
cre, he being at the head. He partook of the plunder, and is
said by the Nez Perces, to have considerable money. The part
he took in the battles at the Utilla and the Tukanan, is better
known to others than myself. He is now said to be in the Flat
head country.
On the 23d, three Indians died, including a child. The Dr.
as usual had coffins made for them, and winding sheets prepard
and assistd in burying the dead. His visits to the sick and dy-
ing, were as frequent as the severe sickness in his and the oth-
er white families would allow. It was most distressing to go
into a lodge of some ten fires, and count 20 or 25, some in the
midst of measles, others in the last stages of dysentery, in the

78 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
midst of every kind of filth, of itself sufficient to cause sickness,
with no suitable means to alleviate their almost inconceivable
sufferings, with perhaps one well person to look after the wants
of two sick ones. Every where the sick and dying were point-
ed to Jesus, and the well were urgd to prepare for death.
24th. To day, a child of Mr. Osborn's died. We hopd that
this affliction of Providence would show the Indians that the
whites, in common with themselves, were exposd to the rava-
ges of disease. But from the grave, Tintinmisi, a chief, fol-
lowd us to the house, and repeata to us, the old declaration-
“The Samh-Sismusismu, (black gowns,) every where tellus
that you are causing us to die. I do not believe it myself, but
some of the people do.
We told him that it was owing to cleanliness, and better
nursing, that a less number of whites than Indians died—told
them, (many were now collected.) if they listend to the false re-
ports and drove us from the country, they would be a ruind
people. But if they preferd the Catholic to the Protestant mis-
sions, letus know it, and we will leave the country immediate-
ly. They said we must not leave them,
CHAPTER XIII.
Same subject continud.
25th. To-day, Mr. Jackson, Mr. Rogers and myself left for
Walla-walla. Encampd with the Walla-walla chief, Piyu-
piyu Maks-maks, (Yellow Swan, often calld Yellow Bird, or
Yellow Serpent,) We had a pleasant interview. He said the
Catholics had often urgd him to leave the Protestants, and join
them, but he should never join them, as it was too much like
their old religion, worshipping men, women, clothes, swords,-
&c. They had frequently requestd of him a place for a station,
but he had refused. They had told him in reply, he must go to

WAIILATPU MASSACRE. 79.
hell, if he followd the Protestants. He replied that as you say
the Protestants are bad, and I am bad, sure it is better that the
bad go together. He said that they had frequently told him
that we were poisoning the Indians, that the Bishop told them
it was the Americans who brought the measles into the coun-
try, that God had sent this disease upon them, to show his dis’
pleasure atheretics.
This declaration, the chief thought the Bishops made in or-
der to prejudice the Indians against the heretics. Immediately
on its being made, the statement spread through the country like
electricity. It was in the mouth of every Indian, old and young
—the great chief of the Black gowns, (the Bishop,) tells us that
the Americans brought the measles into the country—that God
sends this disease among the heretics, to show the Indians how
he hates the Americans. The excitement was intense, and we
felt our situation to be most critical,—we felt that we were in
danger from this source.
But the difficulties in our minds were, are these tangible evi-
dences that we can present to the public and our Board, that
will convince them that we are in danger from this source?
Now that the bloody transaction has taken place, circumstances
and facts seem to point so plainly to this source as the source
whence originated the indirect causes of the massacre, that
many are ready to exclaim, “why did you not leave your fields
before ?” And even our Catholie friends seem to be so thor-
oughly convincid that our situation was a dangerous one, that
many of them are loudest in exclaiming, “you should have left
your fields before.” But so entirely hidden from the eye of the
Christian world, were those influences we feard, that had we left
3 days before the massacre, the Papists would have settlá quietly
through the country, the Cayuse continued, as they have been
for years, friendly to the Americans—had we publishd to the
world as a reason of our leaving that we considerd our lives in
danger from the influences which the Papists were everywhere
exerting upon the minds of the Indians through their prejudices
and superstitions, who would have believd us? The world,
the church and the Board would have condemndus as cowards
leaving our work before there was danger.

80 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
Besides, the Board have ever enjoind upon us, as also the
Captain of our salvation, to contend earnestly for the pure prin-
ciples of christianity against the errors and subverting principles
of Romanism, and Not to FLEE before them.
26th. Last night a niece of the chief died. He requested
me to pray and converse with the afflicted family. He farther
requested that after arriving at the fort, I would hold myself in
readiness to attend the funeral as soon as the corpse could be
taken to the fort some four miles distant, and preparations made
for burying. As we were about to leave, the chief took me by
the hand and said, his heart would ever be with the Americans.
I am happy to learn that to a good degree, (considering the in-
fluences which have been about him,) he has kept his word.
Reachd the fort early. Found here the “Bishop of Walla-
walla” and five priests. Three or four others had crossd to the
north side of the Columbia river, and were commencing sta-
tions on the Yankmaw river. Let it be distinctly noticd that
this bishop was appointed “Bishop of Walla-walla,” and sent
into this field with his priests, while as yet there was not a Cath-
olic church or station, or priest (stationary) in the whole district,
but the field was entirely occupied by Protestant missionaries,
most of whom had been quietly laboring in their places for
eleven years.
Soon after we arrivd, a messenger came into the fort stating
that all things were ready for the funeral services. Mr. Rogers
accompanid me to the grave. A canoe had been cut into parts
for the coffin and its cover.
On returning to the fort I enterd into familiar conversation
with Rev. Mr. Brouette, one of the priests, who can speak very
good English, on the subject of the “Catholic Ladder,” which
has, for several years, been distributed among our Indians, and
I believe very generally through all the tribes of Oregon. This
“Ladder” and the instructions which usually followd it, gene-
rally in the hands of half-breeds previously instructed, declard
the Roman Catholic church to be the only true church—that the
“Suyapu,” [Protestants, Americans,] Heretics, had left the true
church when Luther laid aside his black gown and cross and
went after a maid, that we were all going down to hell—that

w AIILATPU Mass ACRE. 81
while we Protestants by our poisons were causing them to die,
by our instructions we were sending them to hell.
The excitement producd among the Indians by these meas:
ures was most intense. It is impossible for any one who was
not a constant witness to conceive of the agitated state of the
Indians when this alarm was fastend upon their superstitious
minds, and consequently of our critical and dangerous situa-
tion. My attention had been suddenly arrested by the outcries
and wailings of a whole camp, occasiond by the arrival of
some one with an additional explanation of the “Catholic Lad-
der,” always accompanid with the declaration, the American
missions are causing us to die.
I told the priest that in self-defense and in order to counteract
these false ideas, I had prepard a chart on which was exhibited
the rise of the Papal church as predicted by Paul, 1st Timothy
iv. 1–3, 2d Thes, ii. 3. I told him we understood where each
other stood. He and his church regarded and pronouncid us
wile heretics and worthy to be persecuted and expeld from the
country, and reminded him of the means, the “Catholic Lad-
der,” which would soon effect this object if not counteracted.
On the other hand, we Protestants regarded the Papal church as
the Man of Sin, and while I would as a neighbor afford them
every facility my limited means would allow, to aid them in the
beginning in the way of provisions, seeds, native books, &c.,
as I presumd they would do the same by usin like circumstan-
ees, as a minister of what I regarded the gospel of Christ, set
for its defense in this part of the world, and especially as have
ing been first and long in the field, we should exert ourselves to
the utmost to enlighten and instruct the people, to disabuse
them of the errors and highly inflammatory doctrines every
where spreading through the country by this “Catholic Lad-
der” and its teachers, greatly to our prejudice and danger.
Not to do anything like working behind their backs, the chart
was brought and spread out before the bishop and his priests,
and briefly explaind. -
The equality of the apostles as declard by their great Head,
is exhibited on this chart. The rise of the Man of Sim as fore-
told by Paul, and which history and observation compel us to

82 WAIT L.A.” PU MASS ACRE.
believe to be the church of Rome by one markd sign, “forbid-
ding to marry,” and the abominable sin of idolatry in the wor-
ship of many and the bowing to the cross—is represented in
the chart, sitting in the temple of God, proclaiming himself to
be God, by the act of expiating given sins for fixd sums of
money, as 10s 6d for killing a father, brother or wife, 18s for
going into a nunnery alone, &c., and the burning of Bibles
in New York in 1843, are represented. Other abominations
as substantiated by history and Catholic authors, are shown.
The exhibition of this chart calld forth a close but friendly
discussion. I askd one question—Is it true as claimd by one
of your authors that the priest has the power to reproduce the
person of the Lord Jesus Christ? Mr. Brouette replied distinct-
ly, that he and every priest had power given them to recreate
the person of Jesus Christ entire, flesh, bones, blood, head,
hands, feet, &c., just as he was while on earth, and farther,
they have the power to communicate the Holy Ghost, and to
give even the Father himself. My blood ran cold! I was
shockd at the horrible blasphemy of my friend, who otherwise
treated me like a gentleman.
I told him if I could be made to believe that I had the power
to reproduce the person of Christ our Lord, I should be horribly
shockd at the idea of taking the deadly weapon and of commit-
ting murder, and of cutting up this body and feeding it to the
people, and so convert them into a herd of cannibals, which is
repeated many times every day in the Roman Catholic church
in the mass. He replied that it was the glorified body of the
Lord that they reproducd and sacrifică, and therefore it could
not be susceptible of suffering when cut up. I replied, your
mass then answers no purpose. The law of God requires as a
condition of salvation, “without shedding of blood,” i.e. with-
out suffering, “there is no remission of sins.” The glorified
body of Christ cannot shed blood or suffer. He then shifted
back again and said, we continue the sacrifice that was corn-
mened on the cross. I rejoind, you admit the awful fact. The
natural, real person of our blessed Saviour was naild to the
cross and murderd by the wicked Jews. You claim to con-
tinue that murder. Therefore by your own positions you are

ºw AIILATPU MASSACRE. S3
murderers and eannibals-therefore it follows unavoidably that
the system of Catholicism is downright cannibalism or base de-
ception. -
After tea, to which Mr. McRean kindly invited us, in compa-
my with the bishop and his priests, our party left for Waiilatpuº
Encampd on the Tushee. -
27th. Arrived at the station early. A message had arrive
from Hezekich or Five Crows, and Tauwitwai on the Utilla,
soliciting Dr. Whitman to visit the sick in that camp. I should
have mentional under date of 25th, that a Nez Perces in the
camp of the Walla-walla chief, came to our tent and askd if the
doctor was not killd, with as much indifference as if he had
been inquiring about a horse. I replied, no. He said he heard
the doctor was to be killd. This Nez Perce was a young man
from my place, in whose statements no one ever expects to
place any confidence. Had he been apprizd of the purpose of
the Cayuse to destroy all Americans, I think he would have ap-
prizd Mr. Jackson and myself, being our particular friend.
I stated this to the doctor, Mr. Kimble and others, at the sta-
tion,--we considerd it a re-iteration of what had been said for
a long time, “A ball can penetrate your body.” True it was a
time of great excitement among the people on account of the
measles and dysentery which they every where said the Catho-
lic priests told them were causd by us.
The doctor in one of his visits to the sick, had discoverd Ta-
mahas, (calld the murderer for having killd several Indians,
who had just before lost his wife and who was the person, that,
afterwards with two blows upon the head, laid our lamented
brother bleeding, senseless but not lifeless, upon the floor,) in
rather a suspicious attitude. From that time, the doctor had
been cautious. But there were no inflammatory meetings
among the chiefs as there had often been. For instance, when
they returnd from California two years ago after the death of the
son of the Walla-walla chief, several meetings were held tº
consider whether the doctor, myself or some other American
teacher, should be killd as a set-off for Elijah. They came to
the conclusion of a great majority at least, and Ibelieve unani-
mous, that no one should be killd, and pledgå themselves in

S4 WAIILATPU MAS SACRE.
a full meeting, at which all those principal persons who have
staind their hands in the blood of their teachers, as also the doc-
tor and myself, were present, that we should not be injurd, and
said we must not leave the country.
Again, when a party of Nez Perces returnd from the Catholic
station among the Pointed hearts, for many days fiery meetings
were held through the camp, at which were re-iterated like a
lesson well learnd, what they declard one and all they had re-
ceivd from the priests at the station, (in which were insinua-
tions and assertions that endangerd our lives.) we were the
authors of their sickness and death, the teachers of doctrines
which would ruin the Indians. But now there were none of
these meetings. On the other hand, all the Indians appeard
friendly, were constantly coming for medicines, gruels, and oth-
er food, and warm in expressing their gratitude to the doctor
for his unwearied labors among them.
The Cayuse at this time were in a more promising attitude
than ever before. They were enlarging their farms, fencing
them better, employing the doctor to build granaries, break up
land, build fences, &c., who kept from time to time several
teams employd in this business. Their attention to religious
instruction was not abated. They were giving the doctor no
trouble as formerly, about the mills, the land, the timber, &e
In fact, aside from the fearful movements of the Catholics crowd-
ing in upon us, the doctor was more encouragd than at any time
before.
If any are disposd to attach blame to Dr. Whitman because
he did not arm himself and others on that day and prepare for
defense, let that blame rest upon the living—let it rest upon the
writer, and not upon the eminently devoted, pious and highly
useful missionary whose name with that of his worthy compan-
ion I love to cherish, but whose death I am compeld to record
—whose name I know every friend of the red man, as also ev-
ery true American, will love to hand down to the coming gene-
ration, as the name of an eminently devoted missionary and
warm-hearted friend of his suffering countrymen, immigrating
to this country.
I know that one in high authority in the Catholic church, in

w AI ILATPU MASSAC RE. S5
a late publication, by a well meant and well studied silence,
would give a very different character to my departed brother,
as also more than intimate that the first Christian effort is yet
to be made to civilize and Christianize the Cayuse and Nez
Perce Indians. The design of the reverend gentleman in hang-
ing out his colors so soon, was doubtless, that his people might
know where he stood. I am greatly mistaken if there are not
others who will read a lesson upon those colors. But we must
expect such things from such hands–hands which are uplifted
not against the Protestant religion only, but against our dearest,
noblest, immortal American temple, as can be shown from their
attempting to annihilate the civil institution of marriage.
But there is no blame to be attachd to any for neglecting to
arm ourselves. The doctor had not a load of ammunition in
his house-the immigrants living at the station had ammuni-
tion, and I think the doctor's boys had a few loads. Suppose
the doctor had made an attempt to arm and defend himself,
—the attempt would have been known and rousd the Indians.
Besides, Jo Lewis was in the doctor's family, and apparently
his best friend. He would have been among the first armd for
defense—and what a defense it would have been:
The doctor requested me to accompany him to the Utilla.
Leaving dear sister Whitman for the last time in this world,
greatly exhausted by her long and incessant watchings and la-
bots with the sick, with three of her children and one of Mr.
Osborn's yet dangerously ill, to require her constant attention,
Mrs. Osborn not yet able to leave her bed, and leaving my
daughter—oh horrible!—to fall a captive into the hands of mur-
derers, the doctor and myself started about sun-down.

S6 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
CHAPTER XIV.
Same subject continud.
THE Utilla is about 20 miles from Waiilatpu, prairie coun-
try, as is the whole of the middle district of Oregon, with the
exception of one or two mountains, at intervals of one and two
hundred miles. º
The night was dark, and the rain and wind beat furiously
upon us. But our interview was sweet. We little thought it
was to be our last. With feelings of deepest emotion, we calld
to mind, that eleven years before, we crossd this trail the day
before we reachd Walla-walla, the end of our seven months'
journey from New York. We little thought the journey of
life was so soon to close. We calld to mind the high hopes
and thrilling interests which had been awakend during the year
that followd—of our successfullabors,and the constant devoted-
mess of the Indians to improvement. True, we rememberd the
months of deep solicitude we had had, occasiond by the increas-
ing, menacing demands of the Indians for pay for their water,
their wood, their air, their lands. But much of this had passa
away, and the Cayuse, as to efforts for improvement, and men-
acing the station, were in a far more encouraging condition
than ever before.
But the principal topic of conversation during that dark night
was the danger that threatend from another source. The little
cloud, as a man's hand, which had been hanging for some years
in the distant horizon, now assumd a darker and more alarm-
ing appearance. The Papal Bishop and his priests seemd de-
termind to crowd themselves upon us, and without consulta-
tion.
We felt that the present sickness among the Indians afford-
ed the Catholics a favorable opportunity to excite the Indians to
drive us from the country. And all the movements seemd to
indicate that this would soon be attempted if not executed. Be-
sides, we are informd by their own writers, that the oath of ev-
ery priest requires him to oppose, to persecute and to ruinate
every heretic, and every other power, but the Papal power, to
the utmost of his ability. But my worthy brother replied, “in

w AIHLATPU MASSACRE, 87
-
God we put our trust,” and repeated: “if I am to fall by Roman
Catholic influence, I believe my death will do as much good to
Oregon as my life can.”
We arrivd late at the lodge of Stickas, thoroughly wet. In
coming down the hill to the lodge, my horse fell and rolld part-
ly over me, which causd severe pains in the head, and one leg,
through the night and the next day. We spread down our
blankets by a good fire in the lodge, and lay till morning. -
28–Sabbath. Stackas, after family worship, prepard for us
a good breakfast of potatoes, squash, fresh beef, and wheatbread
of his wife's make. My departed brother observd how gratiſy-
ing to notice the advancement of this people—their present
abundant means for comfortable living, compard with their
wretchedness and starvation, when we arrivd among them ten
years ago.
I was particularly struck with the stillness and the order that
prevaild in the lodge, and through the village, during the Sab-
bath.
The Dr. was immediately sent for, and after breakfast, he went
over the river, to visit the sick, in the villages of Tawitwai, Pa-
hat-ko-ko, (Five crows, Yumhawalis, (Growling bear.) At the
hour appointed, the Indians were collected, and I explaind to
them the way of salvation. - -
About 4 o'clock, the Dr. returnd much fatigued, but said the
sickness in his family, made it his duty to return home—said
he had taken tea with the Bishop and two of his priests, who
had arrivd from Walla-walla, the night before, and were occu-
pying a house belonging to Tawitwai, (young chief) built for
him some years ago, by Mr. Pambran—said he had invited the
Bishop and his priests to visit him, which they promisd to do
in a short time. The doctor was much pleasd with the idea
-hoping that we might come to some understanding and bring
it before the people, to say who should be their missionaries—
I consented to remain, visit the sick and dying, and preach to
the people a few days, then take my daughter and return home.
Mr. Rogers expected to return home with us, to give his undi-
vided attention to the native language. My dear brother bade
me good evening, and left about sundown, although he
SS waiiLATPu Massacre.
greatly needed sleep and rest. My eyes saw him for the last
time, as he passdat good speed over the hill, in the distance—
to fall with his dear companion, at their post of duty.
What follows, I have receivil from the children, widows and
others, who escapd the bloody massacre. I have taken every
precaution, and made extensive inquiries, and believe the state-
ment can be relied on. -
Our devoted friend reachd home at 12 at night, and after ex-
amining the sick, took some rest. In the morning, he was a
his work, administering to the sick, in the families of the whites
and the Indians. That night or morning, an Indian died. The
doctor as usual, had a coffin and winding sheet prepard, and as-
sisted the friends in burying. He observd, on returning to the
house, that but two or three attended at the grave.
As the doctor returnd from the grave, great numbers of Indi-
ans were observd gathering about the station, but an ox had
been killd, and was being dressd, and was supposd to be the
cause, as the Indians on such occasions, always collect in great
Rumbers, and often from a distance.
Joseph Stanfield had brought in the ox from the plains,
which had been shot by Francis. Messrs. Kimble, Camfield,
and Hoffman, were dressing the beef between the two houses.
Mr. Saunders was in the school which he had just calld in for
the afternoon. Mr. Marsh was grinding at the mill. Mr. Gil-
lan was upon his tutor's bench, in the large adobie house, calld
the mansion, a short distance from the dwelling of the doctor–
Mr. Hull was at work, laying a floor to a room adjoining the
doctor's house. Mr. Rogers was in the garden. Mr. Osborn
and family were in the Indian room adjoining the doctor's set-
ing room. Young Mr. Sails was sick in the family of Mr. Cam-
field, who were living in the blacksmith's shop. Young Mr.
Bewley was sick in the doctor's house. John Sager was sit-
ting in the kitchen, but partially recoverd from the measles-
The doctor and his lady, with their three sick children and a
sick child of Mr. Osborn, and Mrs. Osborn, were sitting in the
dining or sitting room. Several Indians came to the middle
door, and requested the Doctor to come into the kitchen. He
did so, shutting the door after him, and taking the Bible in


WAIILATPU MASSACRE. S9
which he was reading, and which I believe is now in the hands
of one who escapd, and having upon it the marks of blood-
Edward sat down by his side, and was earnestly soliciting med:
icines, while Tamahas, an Indian calld the murderer, came be-
hind him, and drawing a pipe-tomahawk from under his blank-
et, struck the doctor in the back of the head. The first blow on-
ly stunnd him, and his head fell upon his breast, but a second,
which followd instantly upon the top of his head, brought him
senseless but not lifeless mpon the floor. John, rising up, at-
tempted to draw a pistol. The Indians before him, rushd to
the door, crying out, “he will shoot us,” but those behind, seizd
his arm, and he was thrown upon the floor. At the same in-
stant, he receivil several shots from every direction, while a
number with tomahawks and knives, rushd upon him, and cut
him terribly to pieces. His throat was cut, and a woollen tip-
pet stuck into it. Still he lingerd. In the struggle, two Indi-
answere wounded, one in the foot, and one in the hand, by
each other.
As soon as the tumult commencil, Mrs. Whitman, overhear-
ing, and judging the cause, commencil in agony, to stamp up-
on the floor, and wring her hands crying out, “oh the Indians'
the Indians! that Jo has done it all!”
Mrs. Osborn stepd into her room with her child, and in a
short time, Mr. Osborn and family were secreted under the
floor. -
Without coming into the other rooms, the Indians left the
kitchen, doubtless to aid in the dreadful work without. At this
moment, Mrs. Hayse ran in from the Mansion, and with her
assistance, Mrs. Whitman drew her dying husband into the di-
ning room, and placing his mangled, bleeding head upon a pil-
low, and did all her frightful situation would allow, to stay the
blood, and revive her husband, but to no purpose—the dread-
ful work was done. To every question that was put to him,
he would simply reply “no,” in a low whisper. -
Probably after he receivil the first blow, he was not sensible
of his situation. About this time, Mr. Kimble, from the beef,
ran into the room through the kitchen, and rushd up stairs with
a broken arm hanging by his side. He was followd immedi-

90 WAIILATPU MAss A.C.R.E.
-
ately by Mr. Rogers, who in addition to a broken arm, was
tomahawkdin the side of the head, and coverd with blood. He
assisted Mrs. Whitman, in making fast all the doors, and in re-
moving the sick children up stairs. Jo Lewis was seen several
times approaching one of the windows with a gun, but when
Mrs. W. would ask, “Jo, what do you want?” he would flee
away.
By this time, the scene without had reachd the summit of its
fury. The screams of the fleeing, fainting women and child-
ren—the groans and struggles of the failing, dying victims—the
roar of the musketry—the clash of war clubs—the whistling of
balls—the clouds of burning powder-the furious riding and
rushing of naked, painted Indians—the unearthly yells of infu-
riated savages, self-maddend, like tigers, by the smell of human
blood-all, all, require other language, and other ears than
those of civilized beings' My blood chills as I write. But I
am amazd at the self possession of dear Mrs. Whitman. In
the midst of the terrible scene, she leaves not the room of her
pale, gasping husband. Two Americans were overpowerd by
crowds of savages, and hewd down by her window. It attract-
ted her attention but for a moment—but this afforded an oppor-
tunity for a young Indian, who had always been particularly
favord by Mrs. Whitman, to level his gun. His viºlim receive!
the ball through the window in her right breast, and fell, utter-
ing a single groan. In a few moments, she revivd, rose and
went to the settee, kneeld in prayer. She was heard to pray for
her dear children, now to be left orphans a second time, and that
her aged father and mother might be sustaind under the terri-
ble shock, which the news of her fate must occasion.
Soon after this, faint and bleeding, she was helpd into the
chamber, where were now collected Mrs. Whitman, Mrs. Kim-
ble. Mr. Rogers, all wounded and ſainting with the loss of blood
—Mr. Hayse, Mrs. Bewley, Catharine Sager, 13 years of age,
and the three sick children.
They had scarcely gaind this temporary retreat, when the
crash of the windows and doors, the deafening war whoop took
the last hope from their fainting bosoms.
The under rooms were plunderd of all their property, the fur-

WAII?,ATPU MASSACRE, 91
niture dashd to pieces,and cast out. Jo Lewis was seen among
the foremost to dash in the windows and bring out the goods,
Here a deed was perpetrated, that exhibits the deep treachery
and malignity of the Indian character—
Telaukaikt came into the room, where the doctor lay yet
breathing, and with his hatchet, deliberately chopd his face ter-
ribly to pieces, but still left him alive
Telaukaikt was a principal chief, had ever receivd markd fa-
vors from the doctor. A store house was then about being
completed for him by the doctor. For several years he had ex-
hihited a good christian character, and was on probation for ad-
mission into the church. But such was the return for untold fa-
wors, and such the end of his religion. A few days before, it
will be recollected, he had given a piece of land to the priests,
to commence a mission station within 4 miles of the Dr.’s house
and told the Bishop they were going to get rid of the Doctor–
according to Capt. McKay's statement. The same hatchet or
some other, cut several deep gashes in the face of John, while
he was yet living. -
About this time, Jo Lewis went up into the school room and
sought out the children, who were hid in the upper loſt, and
brought them into the kitchen to be shot. -
CHAPTER xv.
The same subject continud,
As Francis passd by his mangled, gasping brother, he stoopd
and took the woollen tippet from the gash in the throat, when
John attempted to speak, but immediately expired. Upon this
Francis turnd to his sisters, and said, “I shall soon follow my
brother.” - -
The childreu were kept in this indescribably painful attitude

92 WAI ILATPU MASSACRE,
for some time. My daughter Eliza was among them and un-
derstood every word of the Indians, who having finishd their
terrible work without, were filling the room and the doors with
their guns pointed at the hearts and heads of the children, and
constantly yelling, “shall we shoot now *
Eliza says her blood became cold, and she could not stand,
but leand over upon the sink, covering her face with her apron
that she might not see them shoot her.
Oh what pen can depict the feelings of these lambs? From
this place, they were removd out of the door, by the side of the
Indian room, just before Mrs. Whitman was brought out to be
shot.
Immediately on breaking into the house, the Indians calld to
Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Rogers to come down, but on reciving
no answer, Tamtsaky started to go up stairs, but discovering
the end of an old gun, which was laid over the head of the
stairs, he desisted, and enterd into conversation with those
above. He urgd them to come down, assuring them that no
one should be hurt. Mrs. Whitman told him she was shot—
and had not strength to come down, besides, she feard they
would kill her. Tamtsaky expressd much sorrow that she was
wounded, and promisd that no one should be hurt, if they woºd
come down. Mrs. W. replied, “if you are my friend, come up
and see me.” He objected, saying there were Americans hid
in the chamber, with arms to kill him. Mr. Rogers, standing
at the head of the stairs, assured him there were none, and
very soon, he went up stairs, and remaind some time, apparent-
ly sympathizing with the sufferers, addressing them in the soft-
est words, assuring them that he was heartily sorry for what had
taken place, and advisd and urgd Mrs. Whitman to go down
and be taken over to the other house, where the families were,
and left them by assuring them that they should not be hurt iſ
they would go down, intimating that that the young men would
destroy the house that night. About this time, the ery was
heard, “we will now burn,” “we will now burn.”
There was no alternative. A terrible death by fire, in
which all the children and the sick in the house, would be in-
volvi, or that Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Rogers should throw

WAIILATPU MAsSACRE, 93
themselves upon the promise of Tamtsaky. They chose the
latter, as every one would, and our dear, devoted sister, leaning
upon the arm of our dear brother Rogers, both ſaint with the
loss of blood, stepdforth from the chamber, to be ! Oh,
my pen, speak not till forcd to name the awful deed!
Mrs. Hayse followd to assist Mrs. Whitman, who on reach-
ing the lower room was laid upon a settee close by her yet dy-
ing husband. But oh how changd! that belowd face, the home
of her earthly felicity, she had a short time before washd with
her tears, and left it white with the paleness of death, now hor-
ribly cut to pieces, the upper part hanging over the chin, but
gasping for breath. The sight was too much and she calld for
air. Our dear brother was not seen to breathe after this, altho’
he might have lingerd some time, as darkness soon set in. The
settee was borne by Mr. Rogers and Mrs. Hayse out of the sit-
ting-room, through the kitchen, over the mangld body of John,
through crowds of Indians and out of the door towards the
Indian room where the children were collected. Just as the
settee passd out of the door, the word was given by the chief
not to shoot the children.
At this moment Mr. Rogers, discovering their treachery, had
only time to drop the settee, and raising his hands, exclaimd,
“Oh my God,” when a volley of guns were fird from within
and without the house, a part at sister Whitman and a part at
brother Rogers, and he fell upon his face, piercd with many
balls. Sister Whitman was shot in several places, lying upon
the settee. Balls flew in every direction, striking the walls by
the sides of the children. My daughter says the guns were so
near her head that the flashes burnt her hair, and the burning
powder mingled with human gore seemd ready to suffocate
them. But there was no escape.
At this moment an Indian seizd Francis by the head, and
dragd him a few steps from the children, where Jo Lewis, draw-
ing a pistol, cried out “you bad boy,” and dischargd the con-
tents into the lower part of his throat, and laid him bleeding at
the feet of the other children, who expected every moment to
mingle their bodies in the mud and blood with their groaning,
dying mother and brothers.

94 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
The scene that follows beggars description and hurls us back
amid the darkest days of Indian atrocity and savage cruelty.
A savage seizd the blanket upon which the suffering Mrs. Whit.
ºuan lay, and hurld her groaning and struggling into the mud.
The brutal hand that gave her the first wound through the win.
dow, now seizd her by the hair of the head, crying out “you
bad woman,” gave her several blows in the face with his whip,
amid the deafning yells, the shouts and the dancing of crowds
of women and children and men, who seemd to vie with each
other in pouring the greatest possible amount of suffering and
pain into the bosoms of their dying victims. Some attempted
to force their horses over the bodies, while others with whips
or clubs seemd to take fiendish delight in beating their faces ex-
ery time they struggld or groand.
The night came on and removd the savage demons from this
scene of torturing, to the house where the captive women and
children were collecting to become for weeks the sport of their
brutal passions, the victims of their savage cruelties. But these
bleeding, suffering lambs of Christ, although piered with many
balls and horribly beaten, lingerd on till in the night. Their
dying groans were distinctly heard by Mrs. Osborn. The voice
of Mrs. Whitman and Francis died away about the same time,
soon after dark. But Mr. Rogers continud longer, his voice
becoming fainter. His last words were, “come Lord Jesus,
come quickly.” Soon after this, Mr. Osborn and family left
the Indian room, and passd on partly over the body of Francis
which appeard to be lifeless. And it is hopd that very soon
after their voices ceasd, these victims of savage cruelties found
themselves at rest sweetly in the bosom of the Saviour, their
labors, their fears, their pains ended, and their joys, unending
joys, begun.
Mr. Kimble with the three sick children, also Catharine and
I believe Miss Bewley, continud in the chamber through the
night. Catharine tore up a sheet and bound up the broken arm
of Mr. Kimble. After Francis was shot, and while the multi-
tude were engagdin feasting their fiendish passions on the dy-
ing agonies of Mr. Rogers, Mrs. Whitman and Francis, Ups,
Moolpool, (Walla-walla Indians in the employ of the doctor)

WAIILATPU MASSACRE. 95.
collected the other children in the buttery and attempted to com:
fort them. About dark they were taken over to the Mansion.
The first firing commened at half-past one. Brother Rogers
and sister Whitman left the chamber about sundown.
It appears the attack was simultaneous upon the differen
points. Mr. Gillan was shot upon his bench, the ball entering
his breast and coming out at his back. He was assisted by
Mrs. Saunders into another room, and expird about midnight.
Mr. Marsh was shot at the mill, ran a little distance in the di-
rection of the doctor's house, and fell. Mr. Saunders, hearing
the guns, rushd to the door of the school-room, where he was
seizd by several Indians who threw him upon the ground amid
a shower of balls and tomahawks. Being a very active man,
he gaind his feet and ran in the direction of his house, and al-
though he was thrown down several times and doubtless re-
ceiva many wounds, he gaind the end of the field near the man-
sion some twenty rods from the school-room, when overpowerd
by numbers, he fell to rise no more.
Mr. Hall was seen struggling with a single Indian for a gun
which had missd fire—he wrenchd it from the Indian and rushd
to the bushes wounded in the face, and during the afternoon
and night found his way to Walla-walla, 25 miles distant. It
appears from Mr. Osborn's statement, that Mr. Hall remaind at
Walla-walla during Tuesday, determind not to leave, but hear-
ing the women and children were slaughterd, in despair he con-
sented to be put over the river at night, and started for the lower
country.
This corresponds with the statement which the Indians said
was given to them at the fort, and reachd my place by a Nez
Perce, the next Monday, the day before I arrivd at home. I
know it has been publishd that he could not be persuaded to
remain. But is it matural to suppose a man would willingly
leave a fort well armd and defended, and expose himself for
three hundred miles through a country swarming with savages
who murderd his countrymen, and from whose hands he had
barely escapd? Mr. Hall never reachd the settlements. Indian
report says he was murderd by the Indians in the vicinity of
John Day's river. Another report says he was drownd in the

96 WAIILATPU MASSACRE,
Columbia river while attempting to pass a rapid in a canoe.
The three men at the beef found themselves suddenly in the
midst of a storm of balls and flaming powder, dischargd from
a forest of muskets and pistols at their very bosoms. All three
were wounded, but neither of them fell. They fled each as he
could see an opening through the crowds. Mr. Kimble with a
broken arm rushd into the doctor's house and chamber as stated
above. Mr. Camfield ran by the blacksmith shop, seizd his
youngest child and calld to his family to follow him. They ran
into the mansion, and he rushd into the chamber, and from a
small window had a clear view of the awful scene without.
Mr. Saunders was about being cut down. Mr. Hoffman was
yet falling and rising and struggling with overpowering num-
bers, in the midst of clowds of burning powder, the roar of
guns, the clash of war-clubs, and the screams and yells of the
savages. He had first taken the direction of the mill, defend-
ing himself with a single knife. The crowd was now making
toward the house and he in the midst, when two horsemen hav-
ing finishd their work at some other point, with tomahawks
streaming with blood rushd upon him, and he fell, literally cut
to pieces. He was cut open through the back, and his heart
and liver taken out and found by his side on the ground, by my
daughter, two days after, who replacd them and sewd a sheet
around the body before it was, with the others, taken to the pit.
Neither of the Catholics were in any way molested. Jo
Lewis was one with the murderers. Finley's lodge was near
the mill, where the murderers held frequent councils during the
massacre. Jo Stanfield was told by Telaukait to put his pro-
perty by itself, that the Indians might know what was his and
not molest it. He was seen to pass among the Indians as tho’
nothing was going on. He told three of the women, two of
whose husbands were slain, that he knew the murder was going
to take place before he went after the beef, as appears from
their testimony before Judge Wheeler. He told the widow
Hayse that day, if she would become his wife the Indians would
not molest her. -
When the massacre commencú, the two sons of Mr. Man-
son, and David, the doctor's half-breed Spanish boy some nine

wall LATPU MASSACRE. 97.
years old, were separated from the other school children, and
taken to Finley's lodge, whence they were taken to Fort Walla-
walla. The selecting of David from the other children in the
doctor's family, was a nice distinction, and could not have hap-
pend by chance. Two other half-breed children were left, but
their fathers were Americans. David's father was a Catholic,
but his mother was an Indian woman, who when her child
was young, had cast it into a pit and left it to die. The doctor
learning the fact, went to the place, took out the child and adopt-
edit as his own, had educated and bestowd much labor and
care upon the child, and he had become a promising boy. His
father before his death had bound him to the doctor. I am sor-
ry to say the boy is retaind at Walla-walla, probably by the
priests, notwithstanding my remonstrance. As well might any
other of the doctor's children have been retaind.
Mr. Camfield remaind in the chamber till some time after
dark, when the Indians became quiet. He furnisha himself
with a buffalo robe and some provisions and bid farewell to his
family, not daring to hope that they might ever again meet in
this world. He could be of no service to them by remaining
and exposing his life, which would be taken the moment one
of the murderers should discover him.
As yet none of the male children and none of the women brº
Mrs. Whitman had been killd, and the chief Teſaukaiki had
said they should not be injurd. True there was but a faiº
hope that Mr. C. could escape from the Indian country to a
place of safety. But the most hazardous undertaking is cheer-
fully espousd when life is at stake. Mr. C. took the direction
of my place, although a perfect stranger to the country and the
route. He went some four miles and secreted himself in the
brush to await a horse which Stanfield was to bring to him the
next morning if he could do it unobservd. He remaind secreted
most of the day (Tuesday)—saw Indians pass near and heard
several guns in the direction of the station, and of course had
the most intense fears for the women and children.
As I was expected from the Utilla that day, he supposd that
I had very probably fallen. But the victims were Mr. Kimble
and the sºns Mr. Young—the latter had come down from the

98 WAIt LATPU MASSAC RE.
saw-mill with lumber and was to return immediately with pro-
visions for the families. He had arrivd within half a mile of
the house, when the Indians met and shot him about 2 P. M.
—about the time the priest arrivd in the camp. The team was
turnd loose except one ox which attempted to hook and was
shot.
Mr. Kimble remaind in the chamber through the night, suſ-
fering the most excruciating pain from his broken arm, still
more distress of soul from the cries and moaning of the 3 sick
children, not having it in his power to relieve their sufferings,
In the morning he resolvd to procure water for the dying
children. He made his way to the bank of the stream, where
he was discoverd by an Indian and shot al. He ſell as if dead,
remaind a short time and then secreted himself in the brush.
While lying on the bank, a friendly Indian made known the
fact to his wife, but advisº her not to go to him as it would
discover him to the murderers. How intense must have been
her feelings.
About sundown Mr. Kimble left his retreat with the apparent
intention of going in to his family. He reachd the corner of
the garden fence some five rods from his door, where he was
shot by Frank Askaloom, who afterwards took his daughter,
the amiable Miss Kimble, for a wife. He claimd her as a
right for having killd her father, of which he would often speak
to her with the air and appearance of one who had done her
an invaluable favor. -
Who can attempt to measure the deep horror and anguish
of soul, of a young woman in such hands' May kind Heaven
prevent a like affliction to any of his sinful children. Her
bitter weeping whenever the Indian spoke of killing her father
had the effect only to induce him to propose to exchange her
to another Indian who held another of the captive young wo:
men as a wife.
Why Mr. Kimble did not attempt to make his escape on
Monday night, or why, after having liva out the day on Tues:
day, he did not remain in his retreat till dark and then escape,
is not known. He was heard to say on Monday night, “it
matters but little when we die if we are but prepard.” Per:

ºw ATILATPU MASSACRE, 99
haps the pain of his arm took away the strength of resolution.
Perhaps he chose rather to die in the bosom of his family, than
to make the uncertain attempt to save his life, which could
only be a living death while wife and children remaind cap-
tives in the hands of the murderers, the sport of their beastly
passions, the vieţims of their cruelty. For a stranger to reach
my place one hundred and twenty miles, traveling nights,
there was no reasonable hope, and if he could, he might end
the nights of travel and pain and days of watching and hun-
ger only to mingle his own with the dead bodies of the slain
of that station—for what mind could divine where the work
of supersition would end, which had no power to fear, and
many inducements to go forward? - -
The Dalls were equally hopeless for like reasons.
Fort Walla-walla could afford a safe retreat, but unfortu.
mately it was in the hands of Papists, for whom Mr. K. had
the strongest fears as he expresd himself to me the week be-
fore his death—for no other reason can we account for his
not fleeing to that fort Monday night. Had he done so, it is
not probable the fate ºf poor Mr. Hall would have stood alone
upon the page of history, to teach our children that Roman-
ism is in practice what it is in theory, UNCHANGEABLE.
No horse arriving, Mr. Camfield left his hiding-place, and
wound his way up the narrow skirt of brush till he came to
what he supposd to be the trail to my place, about dark. In a
country cut up with trails, Providence directed his feet to the
right one, which he pursued that night and the next day, when
Wednesday night found him in the deep valley of the Taka-
man, where he slept. -
Thursday he followd the fresh tracks of cattle, which brought
him at night to the brink of Snake River bluffs, some miles be-
low the regular route.
Friday morning he came to the river, and having no fear
from the Nez Perces, he calld to their camp on the opposite
side and was crossd over. The Indian driving the cattle con-
dueted Mr. C. to my house upon one of his horses, for which
he requird his bºſſalo robe. That night they staid in a camp
ºn the Clear Water, nine miles below my house.

100 WAIT LATPU MAS.5A, C R.E.
Intelligence of the massacre had not yet reachd the Nez
Perces, and Mr. C. was careful to avoid any intimation. Had
it been known in any of these camps, he would have been killd.
Saturday late in the afternoon, Mr. C. reachd my house and
communicated to Mrs. Spalding the horrible intelligence of the
massacre, aggravated by the probability that the body of her
husband had been added to the slain, as he supposé, from the
report of the guns on Tuesday. If not slain at that time, there
was no human probability that I could escape. Five days had
already elapsd and I had not arrivd, which made it quite cer-
tain that I had been killd.
The case, of itself sufficient to overwhelm the stoutest soul,
was greatly aggravated by the fact, that her daughter was a cap-
tive in the hands of the murderers of her husband, who would
proceed immediately to that defenseless station, to add her broth-
er and the other Americans at the station, to the number of the
dead, and herself and remaining children, to the already long
catalogue of living victims of the savage cruelties.
There was scarcely the shadow of protection in the few
Americans at the place, and she was too well acquainted with
the close relationship existing between the Cayuse and Nez
Perces, and the treachery of the Indian character, to place any
eonfidence in the Indians of the place, except motives of self-in-
terest should appear.
But she was entirely in their hands. There was no other al-
alternative, and with the self possession and calmness of mind
peculiarly her own, in moments of imminent peril, she resolvd
to make known the awful fact, and east herself and children in-
to the hands of the principal men of the place. Mr. Camfield
begd of her not to do so, but evidently it was the salvation of
all at the station. Had the people of the place remaind ignor-
ant of the awful deed, till the report was brought by Indians—
doubtless the bloody scenes of the Waiilatpu would have
been repeated at Clear Water. The first Indian arrivil with
the intelligence of the massacre, on Monday, a Nez Perces—
doubtless a participator in the bloody crims. But he was ac-
companied by a band of Nez Perces from the camp, at which
Mr. Camfield staid Friday night, with the avowd purpose of

WAIILATPU MASSACRE. 101
plundering the station of all the property, which, of course,
would have ended in killing the men, and perhaps Mrs. Spald-
ing, and captivating Miss Johnson and the children. They were
prevented by the chiefs, and their people of the place, to whom
Mrs. S. had committed herself.
On the arrival of Mr. Camfield, Mr. Hart, the brother of Mrs.
S. was not at the house. Providentially Jacob and Shakantai,
(Eagle) two principal chiefs, were at the house, to whom Mrs.
S. communicated the astounding intelligence. While one com-
municated the news to the camp, the other carrid a hasty note
to Mr. Craig, living ten miles up the branch. The Indians im-
mediately flew to the protection of Mr. S. and the house.
Among those who showd themselves friendly were Luke
and his two brothers, members of our church, Jacob, about to be
receivil into the church, James, a Catholie, but particularly friend-
ly to myself and family, and most of their people. Some of old
James' people, united with the robbers, and took considerable
property. -
The Indians decided that Mrs. S. with her effects, must be
removd to Mr. Craig's, where they were taking up their winter
quarters, on account of wood. They judgó that the Cayuse
would be there without delay, and they could not protect the
family, so far from their camp. Mrs. S. proposa to remain
quiet over the Sabbath. James and one or two others remaind
as a guard. The rest retird. Mr. Craig came down late at night.
Mrs. S. endeavord to start an express to Tishimakair, the station
of bros, Walker and Eells, but no Indian could be inducd to
go. She next besought the Indians to send an express for her
daughter, if found alive, and to learn the fate of her husband—
They objected,alleging that the women and children were with-
out doubt all killd. She finally told them she was jealous of
every one of them, and could not feel that she had a friend
among them. It had the desird effect. The Eagle consented
to undertake it, still others threw difficulties in his way, and it
was near night the next day, before he started.
Mr. Camfield's wound was much inflamd, by wading the
streams, and traveling. He receivil a shot in his side from a
pistol, the ball still remaining in the flesh.
-- -
-

102 WAIILATPU MASSACRE.
Mr. Jackson, it will be recollected, accompanied me to Waii-
latpu, and was waiting my return from the Utilla, till Monday
forenoon, when a slight circumstance inducd him to leave for
Clear Water, about three hours before the massacre commencil.
He reachd Mr. Craig's Tuesday night, ignorant of what had ta-
ken place, and of his own narrow escape.
There was another band of Indians encampd in the same
valley, some ten miles from my station, headed by Joseph, a
principal chief, in the absence of Ellis.
Joseph was one of the first natives who gave evidence of a
change of heart, and united with the church 8 years ago, and
had, up to this time, with the exception of two or three slight
deviations, exhibited a good christian character.
Many of Joseph's people were campd with him, and cultiva-
ted extensively in the valley, and had for the last four or five
years, constituted a good portion of the Sabbath congregation-
and the school. Seven of them were members of the church,
and had ever appeard friendly to the mission.
Their present movements however, were very suspicious-
Almost daily, Joseph with many of his people, had been in the
habit of visiting the house. But after the arrival of the news of
the massacre, neither Joseph nor any of his people showd them-
selves till Monday morning, when many of the latter, and
among them, Joseph's brother-in-law, and from the same fire-
showd themselves with the robbers, and were foremost in plum-
dering the buildings. -
Here was an opportunity for religion to show itself, if there
was any. Never before had temptation come to Joseph and
his native brethren, in the ch. in this dress. But now it came,
and his fall, as I regard it, and that of some others, has given to
the christian world a lesson that should be well studied, before
it again places the lives and property of missionaries at the
mercy of lawless savages, without a military force to keep them
in awe.
THINGS IN OREGON.
Bºg-º-o-º-º-º-
CHAPTER XVI.
Arrival of Gov. Lane—Description of Port Astoria and vicinity-Narrow escape
from Shipwreck.
March 8th, 1849–I am quietly stowd away in a private
family in Oregon city, after having roamd up and down the
valley, in pursuit of information. -
All is commotion here. Gov. Lane, from Indiana, arrivá in
town the first of this month, bringing the new government with
him in his pocket up the Willamet river in a skiff, over the
Clackamas rapids. As to whether he got out and helpd to pull
the boat over the rapids or not, I have not been informd. The
big men of the place are brushing up their boots and putting on
their best clothes, as the Governor passes the streets, hoping as
he passes along, that his eye may fall upon them placidly. i
do not very well know what such things mean, though I sup-
*ose that politicians do. -
April 7th—The first public mail arriva in Oregon city, from
the U. States,by the mail steamer of San Francisco,to-day. This
country begins to be alive to maritime business—the first vessel
ever built at the Willamet falls in Oregon, is now on the stocks.
Her owners say her tunnage will be from 50 to 60 tuns burden.
After having staid in Oregon nearly seven months, I take my
departure from Oregon city, the 10th of April, for San Francis-
co, by way of the ocean.
Port Astoria, 26th-To-day embarkd on board ship for
San Francisco bay, after having staid nearly two weeks at As-


104 ‘THINGS IN OREGON.
toria, waiting for the ship to be in readiness to leave. My stay
at this place has given me an opportunity of learning something
of this part of the country, the difficulty of navigating the river
at this part of it, and the prices of some articles of produce, as
sold here in these times of great excitement.
Port Astoria is situated about 15 miles from the mouth of
the Columbia river, on the south side of it. The place has not
been improvd since its first establishment. There are only five
or six houses in the place that have been built by the whites,
excepting a storehouse or two built by the Hudson Bay Com-
pany. The country here and around Astoria,is rugged and un-
pleasant, heavily coverd with fir and hemlock, some of which is
of giant size. - - -
About 25 miles of the river from its mouth, is indented with
bays by various names, making a width of from 7 to 10 or 12
miles.
At the mouth of the river, on the north, is Cape Disappoint-
ment. -
Eight miles distant, on the opposite side, is Clatsap point,
sometimes calld Point Adams.
Cape Disappointment, by its projection from the main land,
forms a little cove calid Baker's bay. Here ships may lie in
perfect safety. - -
On the south side, higher up, at the entrance of Young into
the Lewis and Clark's river, is Young's bay.
At the mouth of the Columbia river, between Cape Disap-
pointment and Clatsap point, is an extensive sand-bar, which
renders an entrance to the river difficult, except by experience
navigators of the river. - - -
The first 15 or 20 miles of the entrance of the river, has a
channel so crooked that almost every point of compass is trº-
versd, which makes navigation by sail ships slow and danger-
ous. At every new point, ships are obliga oftentimes to stop
several days and sometimes weeks for a change of wind. The
only successful and speedy mode of traversing the river will ul-
timately be by steam vessels.
Amongst other things that have fallen within my notice whilst
- -

THINGS IN OREGON. 105
at Astoria, was the price of a few articles of produce brought
to this place to sell to passengers, whilst waiting for the readi-
ness of the ship. Potatoes were sold at one dollar per bushel,
eggs at $1 per dozen, butter at $1 per pound. Flour a little
more moderate—its price per barrel was only $10. During my
stay at Astoria, a beef was killd at Clatsap and brought here,
and sold at 12 cents for the fore, and 15 for the hind quarters,
per pound. -
27th–On leaving Astoria, our ship was thrown on the beach,
where she remaind during the day, occasiond by the drunken-
ness of our pilot.
Thursday, May 3d, we left Baker's bay for the broad ocean,
with a fair wind and high hopes of crossing the sand-bar with
pleasantness and safety. The number of souls on board was
about 130. We proceeded gently along for three-fourths of an
hour, when we arrivd near the place where the ships Shark,
Vancouver and Maine were wreckd, and the wind nearly ceasd
to blow. Our ship became unmanageable, drifting by the
strong tide which was then unfavorable, and likely in a few
minutes to carry us from the channel and place us upon the
sands, where the ship must inevitably have become a wreck.
In this critical situation, with only 18 feet of water for a ship
drawing 15, and the tide yet falling—by the energetic movement
of our officers and crew, they were enabla to stay the ship by
immediately casting anchor. After waiting more than 2 hours
in this perilous situation, the wind became of sufficient strength
to justify an attempt to make our escape by parting anchor.
During this time of extreme anxiety, soundings were con-
stantly kept up both on ship and at a distance around,
When all things were ready on board for the attempt, orders
were given and instantly the anchor with 180 feet of chain were
severd from the ship, and she under way in a retrograde course
towards Cape Disappointment. We continud our retrograde
course till we arriva as near the cape as practicable, in conse-
quence of a bar which projected a short distance from it, at
which point we changd our course to the south-west, and in
less than one hour we were in the broad ocean, and over all
danger from sand-bars.

106 THINGS IN OREGON.
Monday evening, 9 o'clock, May 7th—Safely anchord in San
Francisco bay. Our passage from the time we were relievd at
the Columbia bar, may be reckond at 96 hours' sailing. More
than 12 of this was under extremely moderate wind, though in
a favorable direction. The remainder of the way, was under a
very strong breeze. It would seem then, that the distance may
be saild, with a strong wind, in about 31-2 days, which is about
560 miles, by the way of the ocean.
To my great astonishment, on looking about on the morning
of the 8th, I counted about 60 vessels of various sizes lying in the
bay, most of which were inactive for want of men to work them,
they having left for the mines. On passing up the St. Wau-
keen, the course of my first visit to the mines, I saw scatterd
along at different points, many more vessels of various sizes.
The present head of navigation for sail ships, is a little cloth
town calld Stocºon. Here were 8 or 10 more vessels lying dis-
robd of their sails to make cloth houses of. This town is more
than 100 miles up from San Francisco. At this place, supplies
are deposited for the mines, which are carrid by wagons and
pack animals, to the mining district, a distance of 70 or 80 miles
further, upon the tributaries of the Saint Waukeen.
{ 0, I) MANIA,
Or Yellow Fever, as some call it.
-º-o-º-
CHAPTER XVII.
Excitement in Oregon, relative to the discovery of Gold in California
THE discovery of the Gold District in California, has pro-
dued the greatest excitement of anything of a similar nature in
modern days. - -
The first commencement of the excitement in Oregon was
about the middle of August, 1848, and within one month's
time, nearly 2000 persons left Oregon for that place.
The district is said to be the richest ever known. Though it
is questionable whether the gold obtaind by Solomon was not
found equally abundant, since among so great a number of cit-
izens as Jerusalem furnishd, the abundance of gold in that place
had reducq the value of silver to almost nothing.
When the news of gold in California reachd Oregon, the
wheat harvest was not yet ended, and so great was the delirium
when the news arrival, that many of the farmers left their fields
unfinishd, giving them up gratuitously to any one who might
be disposd to harvest them, or let them waste upon the ground.
As late as the 10th of March, 1849, the fever continud with
unabated fury, increasing in its sanguinary features as the warm
season approachd, preying upon the heart and vitals of every
human being in Oregon.
From the 13th of Sept, last, which was the time I arrivd at



108 GOLD MANIA.
Oregon city, to the 10th of March following not one day passd,
Sundays not excepted, without the mention by some one in
my presence, of the gold speculation.
During the remainder of my stay in Oregon city, tools of va-
rious kinds were invented and being made at that place, ready
for departure to the mines, so soon as they might be profitably
worked, on the opening of the warm season.
The following description of the Gold Mania is taken from
the Oregon Spectator, as quoted from the Californian–
GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA.
In our paper of August 16, we devoted considerable space to
the subject of the gold mines, stating some facts in regard to
their discovery, and the manner in which the ore was collected.
So well was the article receivil by the public—then on the qui
vive for information about the mines—and consequently so great
the demand for our paper, that in a few hours after publication
the entire edition was disposd of Since then we have receiva
many and urgent demands for that number of the Californian,
and this week, at the solicitation of a number of our patrons,
we repeat the substance of our former article, with some addi-
tional particulars.
It appears that in the first part of February last, Messrs. Mar-
shall and Bennett were engagd with a party in erecting a saw-
mill for Capt. J. A. Sutter, on the American fork of the Sacra-
mento river, about 40 miles above its mouth. In excavating
the tail-race, they removd the rock during the day, and let in the
water during the night, in order to wash out the loose dirt and
sand. On the morning of the 10th, after shutting off the water,
Mr. Marshall discoverd the first gold, lying upon decomposd
granite, in the bottom of the race. -
It would seem that but little doubt was entertaind of its being
the real simon pure, for operations immediately ceasd on the
mill, and all hands commencil searching for gold. It was soon
found that gold abounded along the American fork for a dis-
tance of 30 miles. For a time the discoverers were the only
ones aware of the fact, but the news finally spread through the
settlements. But little credit however was gaind by the report,

GOLD. MANIA, 109
though occasionally a solitary “gold hunter” might be seen
stealing down to a launch with a pick and shovel, more than
half ashamd of his credulity.
Some time during the month of May, a number of credible
persons ariva in town from the scene of operations, bringing
specimens of the ore, and stating that those engagd in collecting
the precious metal were making from $3 to $10 per day.
Then commencil the grand rush!
The inhabitants throughout the territory were in commotion.
Large companies of men, women and children could be seen
on every road leading to the mines, their wagons loaded down
with tools for digging, provisions, &c. Launch after launch left
the wharves of our city, crowded with passengers and freight
for the Sacramento.
Mechanical operations of every kind ceasd—whole streets,
that were but a week before alive with a busy population, were
entirely deserted, and the place wore the appearance of a city
that had been suddenly visited by a devastating plague. To
cap the climax, newspapers were obliga to stop printing for
want of readers.
Meantime our mercantile friends were doing an unusual
“stroke” of business. Every arrival from the mining district
brought more or less gold dust, the major part of which imme-
diately passd into the hands of the merchants for goods, &c.
Immense quantities of merchandize were conveyd to the mines,
until it became a matter of astonishment where so much could
be disposd of. During the first eight weeks of the “golden
times” the receipts at this place in gold dust amounted to
$250,000. For the eight weeks ending at this date, they were
$600,000.
The number of persons now engagd in gold hunting, will
probably exceed 6000, including Indians, and one ounce per
day, is the lowest average we can put for each person, while
many collect their hundreds of dollars, for a number of days in
succession, and instances have been known where one individ-
ual has collected from $1500, to $1800 worth of pure gold in a
day.
Explorations have been progressing, and it is now fully as-

110 GOLD M.A.N.I.A.
certaind that gold exists on both sides of the Sierra Nevada from
lat. 41 North, to as far South, as the head waters of the San Jo-
aquin river, a distance of 400 miles in length, and 100 in breadth.
Farther than this has not been explord, but from the nature of
the country beyond the sources of the San Joaquin, we doubt
not gold will also be found there in equal abundance. The
gold region already known, is however sufficiently extensive
to give profitable employment to 100,000 persons for genera-
tions to come. The ore is in a virgin state, disseminated in
small doses, and is found in three distinct deposits—sand and
graveld beds, on decomposd granite, and intermixd with a kind
of slate. -
For a longtime subsequent to the discovery of the minés-
the only implements usd in washing the gold, were large
tin pans, or Indian baskets. atterly, machines were usd—at
first, a rough log hollowd out (in some instances) by burning
and scraping with a butcher " ", ! move finishd
ones made their appearance, built of red wood boards, in the
shape of an ordinary trough, about ten feet long, and two feet
wide at the top, with a riddle or sive at one end to catch the
larger gravel, and three or four small bars at the bottom, about :
an inch high, to keep the gold from going out with the dirt and
water at the lower end. This machine is set upon rockers—
which gives a half rotary motion to the dirt and water inside.”—
Four men are requisite to work one of these machines prop-
erly. -
Within the past month, many sick persons from the mines
have arrivil at this place, and scarcely a launch comes down
the Sacramento, without more or less sick persons on board-
while some die on the river. The very natural inference drawn
from this, by those who have never been at the mines, is, that
they lie in a sickly section of the country, and those at work
there, are in daily expectation of being sick. In oth opinion-
however, nothing can be farther from the truth. As fºr as our
experience goes, it is on the large rivers only, where disease pre-
wails, and in passing up and down upon them, the person not
in perfect health is almost invariably the one to become sick-
We have observd but few, very few cases of sickness in theim-

GOLD MANIA. 111
mediate neighborhood of the mines, but such as we believe
would have occurd under similar circumstances in any other
climate. Let the miner pass the Sacramento safely, (and we
would almost insure any person's doing so that was perfectly
regular and temperate in all his habits,)—let him not, when he
arrives at the mines, work as though he was privilegd to operate
for a limited time only, but poco poco, resting at proper inter-
vals, let him abstain from the free use of intoxicating drinks,
living upon wholesome food, avoiding, for instance, half bak-
ed bread—let him sleep under the shelter of a tent, with warm
bedding—and if, after following our advice in all these particu-
lars, the gold hunter becomes sick, why—we do not know any-
thing about the matter.
-
- -
-
-



-
-
- - - -
-
UALIFORNIA GOLI) MINES DESCRIBE).
CHAPTER xvi.[I.
| Geography of the Gold District of Alta California,
From recent searches for gold in Northern California, it ap:
pears that the present gold district is comprisd, nearly all of it,
within the following boundary. I lies on the western declivity
of the Sierra Neveda range of mountains, and gold is sought for
along the tributaries of the great Sacramento river in the north-
ern, and the St. Waukeen river in the southern part of Northern
or Upper California, -
The names of the tributaries of the St. Waukeen, beginning
with the most northern one, are as follows. Makelemas, which
unites with the Saint Waukeen, near its confluence with the
Sacramento. Next south, is Calaveras. South of this, is Stan-
islaus. The next important river, is Twalamy. Still farther
south, a distance of 20 or 25 miles, is a considerable stream,
calld Merced, or River of Mercy. South of Merced, is anoth-
er, calld Mereposa, though I believe this is dry part of the year.
These constitute the principal mountain streams, tributary to
the St. Waukeem.
The names of the rivers in the northern mining district, tribu-
taries to the Sacramento, are, first and nearest the confluence of
the Sacramento with the St. Waukeen, the Cosumnes. Next
northward, the American river, the largest tributary to the Sac-
ramento. It has several forks, calld North, South and Middle
forks of the American river. Next, Rio de los Plumos or Feath-
er river. Still farther north, are Bear, Quesnels and Sycamore
rivers. 8



114 GEOGRAPHY OF THE GOLD DISTRICT.
--
The length from north to south, of the present gold district,
cannot well be computed at more than 400 miles, lying with-
in the latitudes of 36 and 42 deg. north. In its width, which is
mostly containd within a distance of from 20 to 30 miles, it tra-
verses the middle portion of the western declivity of the afore.
mentiond range of mountains, though miners assert that gold
has been found sparingly, high up some of the mountain streams,
toward its axis.
The whole surface of the gold district presents one continud
scene of uneven country. Much of it, the hills soar far above
the intervening valleys below—and along some of the principal
tributaries, for miles in length, very deep kanions are formd.
The water of the large streams is very pure and healthy, be-
ing mostly from the melted snows of the mountain. During
the summer season itseldom rains, and the rivers continue to
fall, till quite along into the winter season. After the rainy sea-
son commences, which is most powerful toward the summit of
the mountains, floods are often witnessd low down the streams,
where not a single drop of water has fallen for months. These
floods descend with a mighty rush, and often surprise the miner
before he is able to remove his mining implements from the bed
of a stream. -
The mining district is coverd with a thin growth of scrub
oaks and yellow pine. The earth is divested of soil, except
sparingly in some of the valleys, being of a reddish color, by
the decomposition of rocks containing iron. -
The climate is so dry during summer, that little grass grows
in any part of the mines. Nauseous exhalations are therefore
excluded, and the atmosphere is quite healthy. In some parts
of the mines the miners become sick, but it is mostly attributa-
ble to their treatment with themselves. Through the summer
months, the days are warm but the nights are cool, and but few
nights occur in which a man does not need considerable night
clothing toward morning, -

GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD DISTRICT. 11.5
CHAPTER XIX.
The Geology of the Gold District of California, with the probable cause of the -
production of Gold to the surface of the earth.
THE rocks of Golden California, in common with the whole
western declivity of the Sierra Neveda mountains, are princi-
pally composd of primary, stratified, slate rocks. Some of these
rocks are talcose slate. Others are more silicious, approaching
even to coarsish sandstone slate, of various colors.
Before confining the reader expressly to the gold district, a
few remarks relative to that portion of California lying west of
the Neveda mountains to the valley of the great Sacramento
and St. Waukeen, may afford some light on the subject of that
part of the western declivity lying within the seat of mining
operations. The slate rock on the western side of the moun-
tain range, from its axis to its base, is tilted up a little more than
perpendicularly outward from the axis of the mountain, a dis-
tance of more than 60 miles in width, and traverses the whole
range, as far north and south as the present mines extend, in
lines parallel to the course of the mountain's axis.
At the base of the mountain, commences a tertiary deposit of
about 20 miles in width, which, with an alluvial deposit of
about 20 more in width, to the great rivers of the valley, hides
from sight the remaining portion of tilted rocks, so that the em.
tire width of the tilted strata can never exactly be ascertaind.
But if a mountain range like the one under consideration, is
formd by the ſurrowd and ridgä condition of the earth's crust,
by conforming to a diminishd molten nucleus within, from re-
frigeration of its heat, it may be expected that the whole decli-
vity, from its axis or highest point to its lowest or mid valley,
may be all of it tilted up in the same manner as that portion
which is presented to sight. If this be fact, we are then apprizd
that a portion of the earth's crust must have had a thickness of
full 100 miles, by measuring across the tilted rocks, from the
central valley, to the top of the mountain, eastward-a fact not
hitherto believed by geologists, from experiments made upon the
increase of downward heat, to where the crust must necessarily
become molten.

136 GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD DISTRICT.
As so many and various opinions of the tilted condition of
primary stratified rocks have been advanca among the visitants
of the gold district of California, a few conflicting opinions
may serve in some degree to satisfy the mind of the curious.
It is the belief of some, that rocks cannot have become tilt-
ed without the expansive powſ of volcanic agency. Hence,
on viewing the country around, they imagine they see succes-
sions of craters, formd all over the western declivity of the Ne-
veda mountains, and in some places, profusions of scoria be-
strewing the ground. For my own part, I must confess that I
have seen nothing in my ramblings to justify a belief that vol-
canic agency anywhere has existed so as to produce the present
appearance of those rocks.
Those persons imagining volcanic agency in those parts, are
not aware that intense heat destroys stratification, for in the
middle of the craters of some of their imaginary volcanoes, the
stratification is as perfect as in an y other portion of the tilted dis-
trict, and they are not apprizd that in such case a discrepancy
must therefore exist. - - - - -
After the tilting of those rocks had occurd, it would not bein-
probable, with such an enormous crust resting entirely upon a
liquid, molten nucleus, that many undulations in it should oc-
cur, and in many instances the crust should become weakend
and even sunderd apart by the severe strain. Into fissures so
formd, granite, sandstone and conglomerated rocks, may have
subsequently been intruded, presenting, therefore, to persons un-
acquainted with such rocks, the appearances of craters, scoria,
&c. In some parts of New England, primary stratified rocks
are tilted up confusedly, having no regular line of strike. In
some cases, the dynamics employd may have been volcanic, or
they may have been paroxysmal, acting from time to time, till
those rocks were thrown into their present condition. But tilted
rocks that have a regular line of strike, must have a regular agen-
cy to place them in such condition. Hence, then, considering
the perfect parallelism of the tilted rocks of Golden California
with the mountain axis, it seems to follow, that an exceedingly
slow and regular movement of the tilting of those rocks mus
have occurd.

GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD DISTRICT. 117
Another consideration of the western declivity of the Neveda
mountains, is in relation to the formation of its rivers.
Almost invariably, the rivers of Oregon were formd by an ex-
pansive force from beneath, but the rivers of California were
formd by undulations in the earth's crust, which is well proven
by the entire passage of unbroken strata across the beds of
streams. Such condition of its rocks, is also another proof
against volcanic agency in those parts.
The inquiring mind may now be led to the subject of QUAR'az
Rock, containd among the slate rock of the gold district.
The quartz rock of the gold region is mostly white, though
some of it is of the earnelian order, whilst some is translucent,
and other specimens are entirely transparent. The earnelian
appearance of some of the quartz seems to have been nothing
more than the circulation of water containing the red oxide of
iron, through the cracks of the broken quartz, till the rock be-
came tingd with it. The transparent variety is crystalizd, and
is found only sparingly. -
Quartz is found interstratified amongst the tilted slate, va-
rying from less than one quarter of an inch in thickness to
several feet, and in some places even to rods, penetrating the
slate indefinitely downward. -
Although quartz is mostly seen lying in a position parallel
with the stratified slate rock, yet in some instances it is found
crossing it diagonally.
To account for the formation of quartz and its occupying its
present position in the gold district, is to account also for the
formation and production of gold to the surface of the earth,
as is satisfactorily believd by all. It is hard to account for much
of the works of nature. If it be considerd, that the quartz veins
of the gold district be of aqueous origin, that is, formd by infil.
tration, or the percolation of silicious water into unoccupied
spaces, till they are completely filld with silicious sediment, so
as to become rock, we then have to account for its existing there
in a friable state, which is hard to conceive, since a formation
by aqueous agency would most likely produce solid rock.
It is equally hard to see how gold can be found imbedded in

f 18 GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD DISTRICº.
solid masses in those quartz veins, since, if by the percolation
of the water, quartz was producd there, so also must the gold
have been producd by infiltration—and in such case, it must
have been disseminated through the whole rock, giving hues of
various shades, as is the case with iron in a soluble state.
Another objection to the formation of the quartz of the gold
district by infiltration, is, that it is not generally transparent,
since the percolation of silicious water through cold and silent
places will most naturally produce such result. It is most pro-
bable that the crystalizd portion of those rocks was formd from
silicious water, after the original deposit.
it has been asserted by some miners, that they have seen gold
in a state of formation, by the percolation of water over quartz
rock. Those men are probably such as believe that quartz is
the mother of gold—and by the way, I should like to have them
tell me also what the father was. They say that the yellow ap-
pearance of the mud and other sedimentary matter, which they
have seen passing through quartz veins, is gold in a state of
formation. Perhaps they might allow of a correction in their
ininds on that subject, if they were told that the yellow appear-
ance they saw was nothing more than decomposa iron—proba-
bly the chromate of it. - -
Another view of the subject may be taken, somewhat like the
following. It may be considerd that the quartz of the gold dis-
trict was formd previous to the tilting up of the slate rock, by
alternations of tabular masses with the slate.
Some objections to this mode also naturally arise. One ob-
inction is, that there are instances of quartz veins traversing the
stratified slate rock diagonally. Another is, that it cannot well
be conceiva that so thin layers, as is the case with some of the
quartz rock, can well be formd in a tabular way. And if the
quartz had been formd by alternate layers with the stratified
slate, it must of necessity have been of aqueous origin, and
also the gold.
The last view I shall take of the quartz, as found interstratiº
fied with the slate rock, is, that the slate rock is of aqueous ori-
gin, and the quartz rock of igneous origin, intruded from be:
neath after the tilting up of the slate.
GEOI, og Y OF THE GOLD DISTRICT. 119
In the formation of stratified rocks, the planes of stratification,
or sides facing each other, are never firmly united together, be:
ing formd by depositions from water at different times, so that
by subsequent movements they are liable to be sunderd apart.
If it now be considerd the enormity of a massive crust of earth
resting upon a molten nucleus, it becomes easy to see how in-
trusions upward of melted matter can take place amongst strati.
fied rocks, and the many undulatory movements of the rocks,
as appear in the mining district, only give facility to its accom-
plishment.
If it be taken for fact, that the quartz of the mining district
was intruded in a melted state, it must also be considerd that
gold was intruded with it. To account for the friable state of
the quartz, moisture must be supposd to have been present,
whilst the quartz was in a heated state. ---
Such a state of things would produce a disintegration of the
quartz rock, and set at liberty the imbedded gold, to be carrid
downward by gravitation from the hills into ravines, creeks and
rivers. To account next, for the difference between massive
imbedded gold in quartz rock, and gold disseminated in small
particles, needs only to consider the quartz acting as a flux dur.
ing a state of fusion, to bring the gold together, in the same man-
her as borax, glass or quartz will do in the artist's crucible—and
the only probable difference between the gold of California and
that of Georgia, is, during a melted state of the quartz, a higher
degree of heat existed in the quartz of California than that of
Georgia, thereby bringing about a more perfect work of separa-
tion between the quartz and the gold.
-º-
CHAPTER XX.
Three varieties of Gold, with their distinctions, and the reasons given why they are
found in separate localities—Philosophy of running water.
FIRST VARIETY.
The first variety of Gold may be considerd as that which is
º


120 VARIETIES OF GOLD
in dry ravines, or between hills, where there is no running wa-
ter, except in the time of showers, or the melting of snows—
This variety is calld dry ravine or angular gold, from the fact
that whateverbeitsform, whether in plates or heavy solid masses,
or in thin scales, the edges are all sharp and angular, as na-
ture formd it, having never been rounded off by attrition among
moving pebbles or sand, in violent streams of water. The
agent of deposit seems to have been mostly that of gravitation
during the decomposition of the rocks of the hills containing
gold, aided probably by the moistening influences of rains up-
on the alluvium of the hills, and the general movement of allu-
vium from higher to lower levels. When once deposited in
these situations, it never after receives a secondary removal,
except by the hand of the miner. -
Dry ravine deposits vary in their advantages for obtaining
gold, according to the slope of the hills, through which the ra.
vine passes. At the heads of ravines where the country is butan
undulating one, of moderate hills, and wide-spread valleys, the
deposits are generally so disseminated, that but little advanta-
ges are gaind, by searching for gold in such situations.
Downward, towards the mouths of ravines, where the hills
are in close contiguity, gold is deposited in a line along the
center of ravines, varying somewhat in richness, according to the
richness of the adjoining hills that deposited it, or the inclination,
or basin-shapd appearance of the ravine along its course to its
mouth. If ravines are of rapid descent from their sources to
their outlets, they mostly contribute their gold to the streams in-
to which they empty themselves.
SECOND WARIETY
THE second variety of gold is that which is creek-washd,
the corners and edges of which are rounded off by attrition
among moving pebbles and sand of the tertiary deposits of
creeks, during the time of freshets. This gold, whether found
in plates, or rounded masses, is most of it too heavy to float in
running water, being carrid onward to its place of rest, by the
united agency of gravitation, moving water and the tertiary sed-
Hºnent. -

in CALIFORMIA. 121
The creeks and large rivers receive their gold from the mouths
of ravines and hills contiguous to the creeks and rivers.
Gold is found in dry ravines, creeks, and in basins of riv-
ers, weighing several ounces.
In some places along the creeks, the miner finds angular gold
deposited in the banks of the streams at the foot of a hill, where
it had not slidden down sufficiently far to reach the power of
the waters of the stream.
Lost, or erratic gold is sometimes found in the creeks among
the creek-washd sand and gravel of the stream, being subject to
occasional removals, by subsequent freshets. Such gold seems
to be on its way to its final deposit or resting place in situa-
tions where subsequent freshets can take no effect upon it for
further removal. - -
Some of this gold is in pieces of several dollars value, but
most of it is in fine grains, with a mixture of floating gold.
The fine gold is found in situations above the rock, in depos-
its of loose sand, where every violent freshet gives it another re-
moval, till it is ultimately carrid downward and deposited in the
bars of the large rivers.
THIRD VARIETY:
The third variety of gold is that which may be denominated
bar, scale, or floating gold. This gold is found in the tertiary
deposits, commonly calld bars of the large streams flowing
down from the Neveda range of mountains. Hence the name
of bar gold. -
Its form is that of verythin scales, which causes it to floatin
waters that are highly agitated. Hence also, the names of scale,
and floating gold. -
This gold is seldom found in pieces worth more than a dol-
lar, and is rounded off by attrition, the same as the creek-washd
gold.
The several varieties here describd, were the same, only dif-
fering in form, in the original rock—but the several agents of
deposit, have separated them into separate classes, according to
the several capacities of gold to receive the power of the sever-
al depositing agents. Hence, the finest floating gold is found

122 VARIETIES OF GOLD IN CALIFORNIA.
lowest down the principal rivers, where it is deposited. Creek-
washd gold, being heavy, is never movd very far down the
stream, from where it was first deposited into it—and dry ra-
vine gold, having still a little different agent from the others, has
never been movd but a very short distance.
If no more could be said of water, than of other matter of
the earth, that it seeks rest by gravitation, in common with the
harder portions of matter, but little of its influences could ever
be known, to what is now apparent, when viewd in all its bear.
ings. But the fluidity of water, gives it advantages over other
matter, in possessing movements, which the latter can never
receive—such as lateral motion, capillary attraction, great ex-
pansion by heat, aerial passages from rare to dense mediums,
thereby giving a new preparation to descend in the form of rain
or snow, to restore again its former equilibrium.
Running water, in the light here intended to be explaind, is
that which flows down rivers and creeks, from higher to lower
levels. Water, like all other substances, will fall perpendicu-
larly from higher to lower levels, if there be no interposing
obstacle. But as the beds of streams descend like an inclind
plane, from their sources to their mouths, water is forcă over
them by the power of gravitation, till it arrives at a level with
other surrounding water, and is thereby prevented from de-
scending further. Now in the movement of water, along its
downward passage, many considerations arise.
First, if water were made to pass downward thro' a straight
duct or channel, whose lateral and vertical sides were perfectly
smooth, so that no friction could exist between the water and
the trough or duct that containd it, there would be no eddy
formd along its sides for the water would all of it have a straight
forward, and downward movement.
But as the bottom and edges of streams are rough and un-
even, very frequent obstructions to water occur. Places so ob-
structed, are the eddies or partial eddies, so commonly observº-
ble in streams of running water.
If an observer stands on the bank of a creek, during a time of
high water, where there is much irregularity and unevenness of

PHILOSOPHY OF RUNNING WATER. 123
its bottom, he will see in some places, that the water is nearly
motionless—in others, a whirling round of the water-in others,
a retrograde or up stream motion. Under all the circumstan-
ces of these several appearances of the water, those places that
are the most quiet, approach nearest to the most perfect eddies.
Wherever a bend in a creek occurs, the water, by an oppos:
ing bank, is ſored to take a new direction, passing downward,
along on its inclind, though uneven bottom. The opposing
bank stops a portion of the flowing waters, and causes them to
turn back, along the shore of the creek, producing, thereby, a
section of inactive waters, between those of the downward and
and those of the upward course.
Again, if a lateral stream of water flows into a creek, similar
or nearly so in magnitude, the two partially opposing currents
form an eddy in the upper angle of the two, and an eddy of
less magnitude, is also formd in the angle of the two, on the
lower side of the lateral stream.
When water passes over a reef of rock, that traverses entire-
ly across the stream, like a mill dam, the central waters or cur.
rent cannot well form an eddy immediately below the reef, on
account of its impetuous movement—though laterally, towards
the banks, partial quietness of the water may exist.
If an obstacle, as a rock or other body, protrude in the cur-
rent of a creek, so high that water is forcd around it, instead of
running over it, an eddy is formd immediately below it, in mag-
nitude according to the size of the obstacle.
-$º-
CHAPTER XXI.
Mode of searching for Gold in California.
Rock gold, or that which is disseminated in dust or fine par-
ticles amongst quartz rock, being so rare in California, but little
attention is paid to searching for it in such situations.

124 MODES OF SEARCHING FOR GoLD.
Mode of Searching for the First Variety.
The miner, in prospecting for the first variety, or dry ravine
gold, selects a situation where, judging from the appearance of
the hills, or the slope of the ravine likely to contain gold, it may
be found most abundant. He commences his excavation at
the center of the ravine, by digging downward till he arrives in
most cases at the rock on which the deposit was made, which
varies from 2 to 10 or 15 feet in depth. He then prospects out-
ward toward the hills till he arrives at the line of deposit, in ease
any deposit there exists. -
After having found a lead of gold, he excavates upward and
downward the ravine, being careful whilst progressing along, to
watch the several meanderings of the lead, which are likely to
occur even in very short distances. - - - -
The miner never need belong at a loss to determine whether
there be gold in the place where he is prospecting. If gold ex-
ists only in moderate quantities, the pick will generally detect
it by occasionally throwing out into view pieces of gold, even
when they are quite small. In digging in dry ravines, the min-
er, after having arrivil within a few inches of the rock where he
expects to find gold, tries the earth by washing some of it. If
he finds no gold, all of the earth above this place is thrown
away as useless. He then continues to dig downward, trying
the dirt at short intervals, till he finds gold in his washings. He
then is careful to save and wash all of the remainder that lies
above the rock, and even to pick off a few inches from the top
of some rocks that are loose and open enough to receive gold
in some of their crevices, carefully saving and washing the
whole. - -
In some instances in dry ravines, where slate rock occurs, it
is decomposd into clay, to a considerable depth, from the vast
amount of time elapsd since it has been placd in its present
situation. Where such decomposition has occurd, it is useless
to penetrate downward into it, in search of gold, as the gold was
deposited most generally in a strong iron deposit, previous to
the decomposition of the rock. This strong iron deposit is
forma of soluble iron, amongst which the gold is mechanically
entangld and there held, unless the iron becomes again soluble
MoDEs or sea RCHING FOR G &LB. 125
and leaves the gold to settle down by gravitation into the de-
composd rock below. Cases of the second solubility of the iron
do not often occur in dry ravines.
Mode of Searching for the Second Variety.
It is more difficult to point out a successful mode of search-
ing for gold of the second variety than either of the other two.
Yet notwithstanding the difficulties attending it, some hints may
be given, useful to the miner, who has previously become in
some degree acquainted with the philosophy of running water
and the nature of tertiary deposits.
Those creeks of intermediate size between dry ravines, and
the large rivers flowing down from the mountains, though dry
or nearly so at some seasons of the year, are powrful in times
of heavy rains or the rapid melting of snows, as is evident from
the position of some heavy rocks in those streams, which none
other agent, but the powrºof a mighty stream could have placd
there.
In prospecting for gold in those creeks, the miner may select
a position which he judges to be the channel of the creek, or
that portion of it where the greatest powr of water is exerted,
and commence digging downward, till he arrives at the rock
over which various tertiary sediment has ſlowd, and if he finds
the coarse gravel and sand through which he passes, entirely
down to the rock, cleanly washd of alluvium, he may fairly con-
clude that he is in the current of that stream, or where the water
passes with greates force. In those situations, he rarely finds
gold, or if he does, it is in sparing quantities.
If upon arriving at the rock, he finds a cross reef or ledge
rock, rising one foot or more above the rocks downward stream
from his position, he may then prospect outward either way
toward the banks of the creek, keeping close to the rock on
the lower side, till he arrives a little outward from the cur-
rent where the waters formd an eddy, as denoted by a mixture
of alluvium with the sand and gravel of the creek. In those
situations, he may expect to find gold. If he finds gold in such
a locality, he may prospect outward toward the banks of the
creek, till he has exhausted the whole deposit.


A 26 MODES OF SEARCHING FOR GOLD.
As the tilted rocks of the gold district have universally one
course, and as creeks meander across them in nearly every pos.
sible direction, there are chances in many places for reefs of
rocks to traverse the beds of creeks, directly along their channels.
Under such circumstances, but little gold has been deposited.
If the miner cotinues his search along the creek downward, till
he arrives at a bend in it, where the water is ſored over such
reefs, a little outward from the channel, gold is often found in
great abundance—watching carefully whilst excavating the earth
in such places, to prospect the lower side of any reefs that may
be found there.
If a rock of several feet in hight traverse crosswise the whole
width of a creek, so that the only passage for the water of the
stream is over it, like the fall of a mill-dam, its force seldom al-
lows gold to be deposited near to it. But a short distance be-
low, where the first quiet waters occurd, gold may be found in
lateral and central pockets and little basin-shapd hollows of the
rock at the bottom of creek deposits.
Again, if a rock project from any portion of the stream, so
high that water cannot run over it but is forcd around it, an eddy
is in such case formd immediately below it, in which situation
gold may be expected to be found.
In some situations, along some of the creeks, as at Sullivan's
camp, on one of the tributaries of the St. Waukeen, the slate
rock, on which the gold was deposited, has since been decom-
posd to a considerable depth below the tertiary deposit. It
would seem that a second solubility of the iron deposits had
taken place, and liberated the gold to settle down into the de-
composd rock. In such situations, the miner continues to pros-
pect downward, as long as he finds gold abundant enough to
reward his labors. -
Creek-washd gold is sometimes found higher up in the banks
from the current of creeks than the experiencil miner is aware
of, but the man acquainted with the appearance of creek-worn
pebbles is never at a loss to determine the agent that placd them
there—and if, in such situations, he finds rounded, creek worm
pebbles, he may conclude that the pebbles and gold also were
deposited there by water. In such cases, it becomes the miner

MODES OF SEARCHING FOR GOLD. 127
to examine the bearing and level of the creek above such place,
and see if the creek may not some day have formal an eddy
there, and deposited its various contents. If, still higher up in
the bank, he finds gold entirely angular, he may conclude that it
has slidden down from the hill above.
Another thing to be observd by the miner, relative to creek-
gold, is, that in prospecting up and down creeks for gold,—he
carefully observe where a level expanse is formd at the foot of a
cascade. Near the head of such expanse, between the cascade
above, and the next one below, he will find gold more abund-
ant than toward the lower end of such expanse.
In searching for eddies of creeks, where the greatest amount
of gold is often deposited, the miner should bear in mind that
eddies forma in time of freshets, are most likely to contain the
most and heaviest gold, from the fact that much power is re-
quird to move heavy gold, and tertiary sediment.
Mode of searching for the Third Variety.
To obtain a knowledge of prospecting for bar gold, requires
also a knowledge of the philosophy of running waters—yet
gold is prospected with less difficulty in the bars of large rivers
than creek-gold. -
As the bar gold is very light and thin, it is subject to the va-
rious freaks of running water, in which it is mechanically sus-
pended, during times of freshets. In prospecting therefore, for
gold along the bars of rivers, the principal thing to be attended
to, is the formation of eddies along those streams, which, if the
edges of the water were straight and unbroken, through the
length of a bar, would also be formal along in straight lines but
a short distance from shore, or outer edge of the water. These
eddies are the intermediate line between the downward current
of the stream, and the retrograde or upward movement of the
water along the shore, where water is nearly in a quiescent
state. -
But as the edges of streams are rough and uneven, the ed-
dies are also formid uneven. Hence, a deposit of gold in those
eddies, is not straight, but varies according to the unevenness of
the shore, -

128 MODES OF SEARCHING FOR GOLD.
Such a line of quiet water, is the only deposit of bar gold
which is likely to be richest, near the heads of bars.
The best method of prospecting for bar gold, is to commence
an excavation, a short distance out from the water of the river,
near the head of a bar, digging downward but a short distance
among the sand and gravel, occasionally washing the earth—
And if gold is found, progress toward and from the river, till the
richest depositis found. Then change the course upward and
downward the river, and continue to prospect as long as gold
is abundant enough to pay for working.
As this gold is subject to subsequent removals by every
succeeding freshet, it never gets deeply embedded in any
solid tertiary deposits, Hence, it is most usually found among
loose sand and gravel, near the surface, -
This search should be made when the water of rivers is quite
low, which time is also best in searching for the other two vari-
eties. - -
If along a line of bar deposit, a rock is found protruding high
—gold may be expected more abundant immediately below it,
than elsewhere.
To those searching for gold along the bars of rivers, it was at
first, not a little surprising to learn that but little gold was de-
posited toward the center of the stream—but on reflection,-it
will be seen that the water is too violent to admit floating gold
to come to rest in such situations. -
- -
CHAPTER xxii.
- . . . .
Cost of transporting Goods from the several embarkadaries, to the mines-Price of
Merchandize in the mines–Cost of Provisions—Price of Medical Services—Ad-
ministration of Justice—Manner of spending the Sabbath. - -
- - - -
From the two principal embarkadaries upon the St. Wau-
keen and Sacramento rivers of California, provisions and minº

PRICES AT THE MINES. 129
ing implements are transported to the seat of mining operations
at exorbitant costs.
On passing up to the mines from a place calld Stocton, upon
the St. Waukeen, our company hird a teamster to carry our
goods and implements, for which we paid him, for one wagon
load, more than fourteen hundred dollars, rated at 30 cents per
pound. Afterwards during the summer, goods were carrid on
pack mules at a somewhat less cost. It may also be added,
that conveyances were got up for the accommodation of pas-
sengers between Stocton and the mines, a distance of 70 or 80
miles, at a charge of 2 ounces of gold dust for each passenger,
which, according to its yalue in California, is worth $32.
From Sacramento city, the present head of navigation upon
the Sacramento river, similar prices are chargd for the transpor-
tation of goods into that quarter of the mining district.
The price of merchandize at the mines is quite dissimilar to
prices in the States. Tea, best, per pound, is worth from $2 to
$4. Common sizd frying pans at $8. Tin pans, a large size,
at $8 apiece. India rubber elastic cots at $50 to $75 each.
Calf-skin shoes, per pair, at $8, and boots at $16. An ordinary
article of ax-helve at $3. Lumber, scarce, at $2 perft. Pint
tin cups at $1.50 each. Coarse sheeting, 50 cents per yard.
The cost of provisions ranges somewhat as follows. Flour
is worth, per pound, from 75 cts, to $1. Pork, per pound, $1.
Beans are sold by the pound, at $1 per pound. Rice, per lb.,
624 cents. Light bread, per loaf of one pound, $1. Beef, 25
cents the pound. Potatoes are sold by the pound, at 50 cents.
Green peas preservd in air-tightjars, per pint, $4. Onions, per
pound, $2. Public meals, $2.
Medical services are likewise high, in the mining district.
Each visit, near to patient, is 1 oz. of gold, or $10. If a week's
attendance is requird, no reduction upon eam isit is made.
For extracting a tooth, $10 is chargd. Very ºvagant prices
are chargd for distant visits. -
In relation to the administration of justicºe mining dis-
trict, wherever a sufficient assemblage of minº exists to be
9

130 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE, ETC.
thought worthy of judicial attention, an alcalda or justice of the
peace is appointed, who presides over the judiciary department,
with almost as unlimited sway as an emperor. And although
in addition to an alcalda, a sheriff is appointed to a permanent
office, and cases are almost universally tried by a jury, which
is summond by the sheriff, yet they are generally selected of a
stamp congruous to the feelings of the alcalda. From the de-
cisions, no appeal can ever be made, whether right or wrong.
I would likewise remark, that decisions are very apt to be made
against the party having the most gold, and especially if one of
the parties is rather low in circumstances. Such a state of ju-
dicial dispensation may seem somewhat objectionable, at first
thought, but when we reflect, that where no legislation exists,
lynch law is the only mode of dispensing justice, to which men
can well resort, and this is so terrific in its consequences of
criminal justice, that rogues tremble in view of its administra-
tion. Much more civility and less theft exists in the mines than
might at first be supposd.
The costs of legal services may be arrangd somewhat as fol-
lows: Alcaldas, for each suit, 1 oz. To the sheriff, 1 oz. To
each juryman, half an ounce of gold,—and legal pleadings are
often enormous, even to $100 for the service of an hour or two.
The several foregoing costs of transportation, price of mer-
Ghamdize, costs of provisions and medical services, are very of.
ten increasd or diminishd, according to location, distance, or dif-
ficulty of transporting, and also the season of the year.
There is a consideration, likewise, in relation to spending the
Sabbath amongst the gold mines of California.
The reader may greatly wonder what is the mode of spend-
ing the Sabbath there, when I say to him, that the Sabbath ap-
pears as silent as the house of mourning. Seldom is a man.
seen with his implements in his hands, laboring for gold. All
around is quiet, except now and then a few horsemen are pass-
ing from one little town to another, for purposes best known to
themselves. What, then, is the wonderful employment or idle
condition of miners upon that day ! Alas! every public tent
through the whole mining region is resorted to for gambling-
MANNER OF SPENDING THE SABBATH. 131
In each of these tents, stands from one to four or six monte ta-
bles, around which, miners of all classes assemble to risk their
fortunes. These tables are arrangd with small or large sums of
money, by one or more persons, according to the ability of the
person or persons that establish them, The sums of money so
arrangd are calld banks, or monte banks. On opposite sides of
the table, sit two men, who manage the affairs of the bank, and
deal the cards by which the fate of bettors is determind. This
game at cards is carrid on from morning till night, and often
through the following night till twilight breaks upon them, with
the stillness and quiet of a religious assemblage,


DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA.
—-º-º-º-º-º-º-; Gºes” –
CHAPTER XXIII.
Alta or Upper California with respect to Agriculture—Climate and Health of Alta
California-Navigation of its two principal Rivers—Some of the principal Towns
of Alta California—Its Bays and Harbors.
It can hardly be imagind, how the business of agriculture
can be earrid on successfully in a country circumstancq like
Upper California. In the mountainous portions, grain can not
do well without resort to irrigation, and this, from extreme cost,
can not well be done on an extensive scale.
The low country of the great valley of the St. Waukeen and
Sacramento, is not unfrequently inundated a month or two, dur-
ing the latter part of the winter, which renders passages from
one part of the valley to another by land, entirely impracticable,
and although along the borders of those two large rivers, and to
some distance outward from them, there is a good soil, yet it is
well known to farmers, that wheat will not live but a few days,
entirely immersd in water—so that the wheat crop could never
be depended upon as a safe investment.
Along the borders of these rivers, in some places, the native
grasses are of a tolerable growth. Outward toward the base of
the mountain, the earth becomes so dry during the summer,
that vegetation is entirely dried up. It however arrives at ma-
turity, at a stinted growth. I have seen native oats growing
upon the plains of the great valley. These also are not very
enormous in size. Notwithstanding, they for awhile furnish
good grazing for the roaming cattle of the country, upon which,
and the short bunch grass growing upon some of the hills, they

DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNtA. 133
become very ſat during the summer. But as the grasses of the
country are of so stinted a growth, farmers cannot live in crowd-
ed communities, as in the States, but at distances of from 10 to
20 miles apart. Locations of this kind are calld ranches, or
rancheros, and farmers so living often own several hundred head
of cattle and horses. -
The climate of California, of which I shall next speak, varies
considerably in different parts of the country, according to its
distance from the ocean or from the Neveda mountains, or the
unevenness of the surface of the country.
In the mountain district of the Neveda range, the climate
was describd in the geography of that portion of California.
Lower down and westward, along the great valley, the cli-
mate is milder, through the whole of the year. I believe the
large rivers of the valley are not frozen during the winter, and
the weather in summer is quite warm. Thus far from the axis
of the Neveda mountains eastward, to the two great rivers
westward, during the summer season, the sky is serene, and
and the stars and planets shine with great splendor.
No dew falls in that part hitherto describd, during the hottest
season of the year, and travelers may lie upon the ground with-
out exposure from the unhealthiness of a damp ground and a
moist atmosphere.
Farther outward, and along the coast, the country is much of
the time during the year, coverd with fogs, which render it un-
pleasant, and in some measure unhealthy. The town of Sam
Francisco, most of the year, is envelopd in a thick fog, during
much of the night and the following day, till 10 or 11 o'clock,
after which time the wind becomes of sufficient strength to clear
away the fog, which often renders the remainder of the day un-
pleasant. This town, from the almost continued dampness of
the atmosphere, and the unavoidable use of mineralizd water,
can hardly be considerd a healthy place. Dysentery and fever
seems to be the prevalent disease.
I had nearly forgotten an idea which I now recollect to have
heard, relating to the dryness and purity of the atmosphere of
California. It has been said that the flesh of animals may be

134 DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA.
hung up in the open atmosphere, till it becomes perfectly pre-
servd by drying, without salt, and during such process, no an-
noying insects ever disturbit—and also, that a man would never
die there, except by being dried up. -
It is true, that the Spaniards have a mode of preserving the
flesh of the ox, by cutting it into very small strips, and hanging
it upon strings cut from the raw hide, where it is exposd to the
heat of the sun. In this way, meat could be preservd in any of
the States, but if it be left in large masses, and so circumstancă
that any part of it is kept from drying immediately on the out-
side, the green fly, an insect common to that country as well as
the States, is presently found to be a loathsome intruder.
When I left the mining district for the valley, on my way to
San Francisco, on the 13th of October, I saw eight or ten ves-
sels lying at Stocton, and at the head of Suisan bay, three or
four more, and at the head of Pablo bay, six or seven more.
These, with ten or twelvelying at Sacramento city, and as many
more scatterd along the two rivers and in the several bays, add-
ed to about 130 which I counted in the harbor of San Francis-
co, on my arrival there, will make about 175 vessels within the
country of California. Most of the vessels lying in the harbor
of San Francisco, were inactive, for want of help to work them.
The business of transportation upon the two rivers, St. Wau-
keen and Sacramento, I believe to be as profitable as any that
is attended to in California. When I left, two small steamers
wore constantly plying between San Francisco and Sacramento
city, and another was being put together at Suisan bay, for the
navigation of the St. Waukeen. More busines at present is
dºse upon the rivers by launches, a small vessel of only one
mast, than by any other vessel. These are more easily man-
agd than large ships, along the intricate windings of those ex-
tremely crooked rivers, but so soon as a sufficient number of
steainers can be obtaind for the business of the rivers, other
means of transportation will in a great degree cease.
That portion of Alta California, where at present men's con-
geptions are most vivid, and where at every corner, pass or axe-

DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA. 135
me, the lively turn of the foot is seen, and where men's views
and feelings to-morrow will not be what they are to-day, and
where also the sight of the golden streams from the Neveda
mountains produce electrical shocks upon all persons, whose
hearts are tund to chant the new and animating lays of later
scenes of better days, and where nearly all of the “Elephant.”
in his varied and portentous displays, is seen—may be com-
prisd within the small tract of country, over which the waters of
the two principal rivers, Sacramento and St. Waukeen, flow.
Along these waters, are several newly laid out towns, together
with some of ancient Mexican date.
SAN FRANcisco is situated upon a side hill, on the south side
of the bay of the same name. Its inhabitants were reckond,
on the first of November, '49, at 25,000, though six months be-
fore there were scarcely 5000. Such has been the rapid pro-
gress of San Francisco. The town is 10 or 12 miles within
the entrance of the bay from the ocean.
At the head of Pablo bay, is a newly laid out town, calld
BENETIA. It lies on the north side of the strait between Pablo
bay and Suisan bay. This strait will doubtless bear the name
of Benetia. The town will ultimately be a pleasanter one than
San Francisco. One mile east of Benetia, upon the same side
of the strait, the United States have establishd an arsenal.
At the head of Suisan bay, is a new town calld WESTERN
New York. This town lies on the south side of the waters
of the bay, upon a flat piece of ground, at the lower confluence
of the Sacramento and St. Waukeen. The deita between the
upper and lower confluence, is about 20 miles in length. New
York, situated as it is, will command the business of both
rivers, and if it is lucky enough to avoid being inundated once
a year, will ultimately be a place of considerable importance.
At the present head waters of navigation for the St. Wau-
keen, upon a slough about three miles distant from the river, is
a town calld Stocton, the principal embarkadary for the south
division of the mining district. This town is situated on low,
flat ground, which rises but little above the waters of the river,
at lowest stages. When the country around is overflowd with

136 DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA.
water, this town must necessarily suffer much inconvenience
therefrom.
The last town which I shall here mention, is Sacramento
city. Like Stocton, it is situated at the present head waters of
the Sacramento river. It serves as the principal embarkadary
for the northern mining region, as Stocton does for the south,
and from this place, provisions and implements are carrid to all
parts of the northern mining region. The place is more than
half as large as San Francisco, and is fast improving.
Before closing the subject of California, a few remarks con-
cerning its bays and harbors may not be uninteresting.
The BAY of SAN FRANCIsco is nearly surrounded by high .
hills, with a narrow entrance from the ocean, and now and then
an island is interspersa, to hide the scenery of its waters from
the hills contiguous to the town of San Francisco. It is large
enough to contain the shipping of the whole world, and its wa-
ters are not of inconvenient depth for anchorage.
Next above this, lies PABLo BAY, or BAY of ST. PAUL. It is
inferior in size, but ships can anchor in any part of it, and lie at
all times with a tolerable degree of safety.
At the head of Pablo bay, commences SUISAN BAY, which ex-
tends upward to the delta that divides the two rivers, Sacra-
mento and St. Waukeen. The waters of this bay are so shoal
that vessels have difficulty in sailing over it, except directly
along its channel.
The distances across the several bays are as follows. From
San Francisco to Pablo bay, is about 10 miles, and through
Pablo bay to Suisan bay, is 40 miles, and Suisan bay differs
but little from 50 miles in length, from Benetia to New York,
at the head of the bay. -

HOMEWARI) B0DNI).
—“sº -------4---
CHAPTER XXIV.
Scenes on the Pacific Ocean—Difficulty of reaching the harbor of Panama, by sail
ships.-Arrival at Panama–The town of Panama, and its inhabitants—Passage
across the isthmus, to Chagres.
ArtER a stay in California of a little more than five months,
I took my departure for home by way of the ocean, on board a
sail ship bound for Panama, the 21st day of October, 1849. As
there is often a difficulty in getting out of the bay of San Fran-
cisco into the ocean, with sail ships, on account of a strong
wind that is much of the time blowing through the straits east-
ward from the ocean, and the dense fog that envelops the sea,
at the entrance of the bay, we were detaind nearly two days
before we could pass the straits into the ocean.
Our passage from San Francisco to Panama, was accom-
plishd in 40 days, a distance of about 4000 miles, tho' along the
coast, it would not much exceed 3500. This passage was con-
siderd by the master of the vessel, as expeditious as is common
upon waters of as little wind as is not unfrequently witnessd
upon the Pacific ocean.
Whilst on my passage from Oregon last spring, to Californ-
ia, I saw a short distance from ship, a whale, in an attempt at
running a race with us. He kept along in a parallel course
with the ship, one or two miles, and then left us. Ship-mas-
ters say they will outrun the fleetest ship.
But we saw on our passage from San Francisco to Panama,
but few of the monsters of the deep, so often describdin histo-

{38 HOMEWARD BOUND.
ry and romance, although this coast is the place to which whale-
men resort. At a distance from ship, we saw now and then a
few whales, spouting the briny waters high into the atmosphere
—and then again, a shoal of porpoises surrounding the ship—
some of which, our sailors caught with their hooks and lines—
The flesh of the porpoise is of a reddish color, and coarse, but
tolerably pleasant to eat. -
The dolphin is a small fish of only two or three feet in length
—and has the power of changing its color. The flesh is said
to be poisonous in some degree, and is therefore not good for
food. These fish are shy and hard to take, except by strata-
gem,
Our captain is an old whaleman, and his vessel was fitted
out from Nantucket, for that purpose. On our way south-he
one day took 4 or 5 men into a whale-boat, and started out from
the vessel in pursuit of some black fish we saw at a short dis-
tance from us. We had not watchd him long before we saw
him returning with a large black fish in tow of his whale boat.
He presently came along side, and down the halyards were let
—to haul the monster upon deck-and in a few minutes,
was seen stretchd athwart the ship, a giant fish, weighing about
2500 pounds,-out of which, was obtaind 4 barrels of oil.
This was a specimen of whaling on a small scale. The fish
here caught, was a species of whale, and was organizd similar-
ſy. A few inches from the end of his snout, upon the top of
it, was a valve, about 3inches square, out of which, the animal
spouts,
After tossing and rolling about upon the wide Pacific, till I
was utterly tird of my situation, we at length arrivd at the out-
or confines of Panama bay, on Monday, Nov. 26. Although this
bay is more than 100 miles wide at the entrance, yet it is so sit-
uated, that most of the year, there is a wind from the Caribbe-
an sea, blowing across the continent outward from the harbor
of Panama, which renders an entrance into it slow and difficult.
We, however, after tacking the ship the tedious number of 10
times, arrivd in safety at the harbor of Panama, on the evening
of Friday, Nov. 30. -
Our arrival at Panama, was an epoch of satisfaction to me.

HOMEWARD BOUND. 139
as well as my fellow passengers, after having experiencil so
many days of monotony upon the ocean.
The anchorage for ships is inconveniently situated from
town, being nearly 3 miles distant.
After having arrivd at the town, and wanderd over it some-
what, I found it to be located upon a rock, formd of successive
layers of apparent lava. But as my opportunity of examining
it was scanty, I could not well determine its character. The
town wears a dilapidated appearance, from its extreme age, and
a want of attention to repairs. Many of the houses are large—
and three stories high, with broken down roofs, and with grass
growing out of every corner, and upon the roofs. They have
the oddity of being built partly of bricks, and partly of stone.
intermingld together in the body of the walls. They have win.
dows arrangd similar to windows in houses of the states, but
without sash or glass, being left entirely open. No chimneys
are built to any of the houses, and cooking is done with small
portable furnaces, or a fire is built upon the ground, between 2
small rocks set up edgewise, so as to contain the fuel. In the
cooking apartments, an arrangement is made for the escape of
the smoke at the top of the room, so that it may not communi-
cate with their dining or sitting rooms.
The town, previous to the gold excitement of California, was
in a great measure, vacant of inhabitants, and large and com-
modious rooms may have been hird for the small sum of 121-2
cents per day. The streets are mostly narrow, but they are tol-
erably well pavd, and are washd nearly every day for 3-4 of
a year, from the all copious fountain of the heavens above. No
drays or coaches are seen to mar the beauty of the streets, and
grass is seen growing even in the middle of the streets, and
along its sidewalks. This was once a populous town, but now
—like most other Spanish towns along the western coast of
America, is seen the marks of imbecility, indifference and de-
cay. They have a small market or two, to which all classes in-
discriminately, resort for their daily support. The town next to
the bay is walld around, upon which, a few cannon were plaed
for its former defense.
The inhabitants speak the Spanish language. They are

140 HOMEWARD BOUND.
aleanly in dress, plain in their manners, and familiar in their
conversation. They are unassuming in their style, and liberal
in their hospitalities.
I am inclind to think the character of the American Spanish
has hitherto been misrepresented. During my stay in Californ-
ia, I was located among that people, and I ever found them wil-
ling to part with half their last meal to feed a hungry man. Al-
though the Spanish ladies are almost universally meat washers,
yet their is a want of taste in their dress, it being loosely, though
not fantastically adjusted about their persons. In their behav-
ior their sitting and reclining postures have an unchaste appear-
ance, though this may arise from want of proper training.
The width of the isthmus from Panama across to the bay of
Darien, is not much different from 50 miles—but by the way of
the old Panama road to Chagres, the distance is about 64
miles. Through this route the present emigration passes.—
From Panama, there is a portage of about 24 miles, to Cruses,
a town of about 150 houses, at the present head waters of the
Chagres river. There is also, another town of similar import-
ance, about 5 miles below, upon the Chagres river, callel Gor-
gona. To this town, also, there is a road which leads off from
the Cruses road about half way distant from Panamato Cruses.
The present Cruses road is probably of as ancient date as the
town of Panama. It has once been pavd, and a tolerably good
road for pack animals to pass, but too marrow to admit of carri-
ages. Across the portage, the country is uneven, though not
mountainous, and much of the way, the road is cut through
hills of soft rock. At present, the pavement is almost all broken
up, and the road is muddy and disagreeable to pass, much of the
year, even with pack animals. Most of the property that now
passes that road, is carrid upon the backs of native citizens,—
though horses or mules can be hird at either end of the rout for
the transportation of property.
The houses of Cruses and Gorgoma, and also a few scattering
houses along the portage, are made of Bamboo, a reed which
grows very tall, but small in size. These reeds are set upon
the ends, and firmly crowded together to the size of the requird
wall. At the corners of these walls, are set posts of sufficient

HOMEWARD BOD ND. 141
strength to support the roofs, which are thatchd of the cocoa
leaf. After the roofs are completed, no rains can penetrate
them. The slender appearance of these houses, seems to be a
proof that no tornados or heavy winds exist along the isthmus,
—and some families live in tenements of nothing but a roof
placd upon posts in the form of a Dutch barrack.
The remainder of the way from Cruses to Chagres, is down
the Chages river—a stream of considerable importance in time
of high watar, though not of sufficient depth to admit of the
navigation of any but small class steamboats, in times of com-
mon stages of the river.
The country across the isthmus truly indicates a want of yan-
kee enterprise. No agricultural interests are resorted to for the
support of the inhabitants. All appears drear, and the country
is thickly coverd with low, leaſy kinds of timber, heavily laden
much of it, with vines of various kinds, pending their branches
near to the ground. Now and then, however, along the way is
seen a small opening or lawn, where a few cattle are grazing-
and these of the thriftiest kind-indicating the advantages
which might be derivd from the improvement of the soil upon
the isthmus, -
—£33333- -
-
- - - - -
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CHAPTER XXV.
-
Town of Chagres-Its inhabitants—Trip to New Orleans—Thence up the Missis-
sippi to St. Louis—Arrival home. -
CHAGREs is a town of some over 150 houses, situated on the
South American side, at the mouth of the Chagres river. The
houses are like those of Gorgona and Cruses, many of which
appear to be of considerably ancient date. The ground upon
which the town stands, is of but little elevation above the wa-
ters of the river, and it seems that it must inevi ºly become in-
Rundated, should a strong wind continue to blow a considerable

142 HOMEWARD BOUND.
time from off the Caribbean sea. This town, as also Gorgona,
Cruses and Panama, belongs to the republic of New Grenada.
Bogota is the capital of this republic, and is situated interior,
several hundred miles to the south of Chagres. An entrance to
the mouth of the Chagres river, by sail ships, is often attended
with the danger of being wreckd on the beach. Hence, a steam-
er is kept at the harbor for the conveyance of passengers from
them, at a distance of 2 miles, where they are obliga to anchor.
At the entrance of the river and contiguous to the town, upon
a projecting eminence, is an old, dilapidated fort, with a large
number of brass cannon scatterd about upon the walls. There
appear to be a few soldiers strolling about the fort, but with a
total indifference to the attention which a ſort requires for its re.
quisite abilities, in an emergency.
The inhabitants of Chagres have more of negroes and negro
blood in them than the citizens of Panama, Cruses or Gorgona,
but they are of similar stamp with their neighbors in that part
of America, and speak the same language. The females dress
much in lawns and other light clothing, as is most suitable for
the climate. The religion here, and mostly throughout this part
ºf the country, is Roman Catholic.
The bells of the churches are generally hung in the windows,
or outside, near the ground, at their entrances. The cross-bar
on which they are hung, often contains two bells, so that the
ringing of them is frequently done by two persons, in quite a
a ludicrous manner. The mode of ringing is performd by each
person's taking a small hammer or stick, and striking upon the
outside of the bells, keeping time with each other, similar to the
beating of two drummers.
Saturday, Dec. 8th-Embarkd on board brig Major East-
land, bound to New Orleans, and arrivá there, Thursday, De-
cember 20th. Our trip was a tolerably short and pleasant one,
for the season of the year. We experiencă no storm upon the
Caribbean sea, nor any through the Gulf of Mexico. Nothing
of importance was experiencq on the way, to change the mono-
tony.
On the 21st, I left New Orleans by steamboat, for St. Louis,
HOMEWARD BOUND. 143
a distance of 1200 miles by water, though probably not much
exceeding 600 direct. The old towns of Natchez and Vicks-
burg are in a decayd condition. Memphis appears to be the
most thriving town between New Orleans and St. Louis.
Monday, Dec. 31st, I found myself at the St. Louis levee,
after struggling with floating ice for a day or two, the latter part
of the distance. I left St. Louis, Jan. 2d, 1850, and arrivd at
Knox co., Ill., Jan. 8th, having been gone from home, one year,
mine months and five days.
On my arrival at home, I found my friends in a state of
health, though many deaths in town had occurd during my ab-
sence, and the place had exceedingly improvd.
A few remarks appendant to the foregoing, in relation to tra-
veling expenses, may be of use to those desirous to go to Cali-
fornia, by the way of the oceans and the isthmus. At present,
the arrangement for running steamers between San Francisco
ind Panama, is, to leave each place for the other, but twice each
month, which is on the 1st and 20th. Sail ships are also run-
ning between the two places with frequency. Prices of pas-
sage, the fall of 1849, between the two places, were $300 cabin,
$150 steerage. On board sail ships, $150 cabin, and $75
steerage. An arrangement from Chagres to New York, by the
way of New Orleans and Havana, is made by the U. S. Mail
Ship Company, for carrying passengers, so that passengers can
leave Chagres on the 28th of each month, at $150 cabin, $125
forward, and $80 steerage. This state of things will not last
long, before there will be a sufficient amount of competition for
the speedy accommodation of all who wish to go to California.

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