- º º º - - º º | s - º - - º - - - - - RNAL - A. JOU 1. - - - - - - o F THE - - - - - VOYAGES AND TRAVELS OF A CORPS OF DISCOVERY, - usines ºne commasp of capt. Lewis and capt. cLARKE of The ARMY of T & E tº NITRD $1 ATFs, FROM - - rite vovira of ºne River arrssover ºn Rovch riſk IN 2°ERIoR P4. Rº's or worrºr A ºf a RIC.: 76 THE PACIFIC OCEAN, puri Ng THE YEARs 1804, 1805 & 1806. . - - Conºra. In 1 Nº An authentic relation of the most interesting transactions - during the expedition,-A description of the country, And an account of its inhabitants, soil, climate, curiosities and vegetable and animal productions. - BY PATRICK. G.4SS, - o NE of THE PER so Ng EMP Loy En r N THE EXPE prºr tex. - . wr ºr tº: - GEOGRAPHICAL AND EXPLANATORY NOTES BY THE PUBLISHER. - --- - - ſcopy-RIGHT SEcºRED Accorn 1 No to LAw.] . - - - - - PITTSBURGAſ, - - - - PRINTEp by zapok cºaster, Fon DAVID M'KEEHAN, PUBLISHER ANb fºopx1EToR..........! 807. - - - - 01STRICT OF PENNSY VANIA, so wº - - - - - (L. S.) Bertº . E IT REMEMBERED, That on he cleventh day of April in the thirty-first year of he independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1807, David M. Kºchºn, of the said District, hath deposited in this Office, the Title of a Book the - Kight whereof he claims as Proprietor in the words. following, to wif : - - * A Journal ºf the voyages and Travels of a corps ºf Discovery, under the command of Capt. Lewis and Cat - Clarke of the Army of the United States, from the mouth - of the river Missouri through the interior parts of North America to the facific Ocean, during the years 1804, 1803 and 1806. Containing an authentic relation of the most in teresting transactions during the expedition,--A description of the country, And an account of its inhabitants, soil, cli- - mate, curiosities, and vegetable and animal productions— By Patrick Gaº, one of the persons employed in the Expe. dition. With Geographical and Explanatory Notes by the Publisher.” - - | > In Conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, intitled, “ An Act for the Encou- ragement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Anthors and Pro- prietors of such Copies during the Times therein mentioned” And also to the Act, entitled “An Act ºupplementary to Act, entitled, “An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such Copies during the Times therein mentioned,” and extending the Benefits thereof to - the Arts of designing, engraving, and etching histo- rical and other Pºints.” D. CALD WELL, Clerk ºf the ºrieſ of Pennºniº. - PREFACE By THE PUBLISHER. --- OF the various publications which unite amuse- ment and information, few can be justly held in higher estimation than the Journals and Narratives of Travellers and Voyagers : and in our own highly favoured country, the diffusion of general knowledge, the enterprizing spirit of the people, their commer- cial pursuits and habits of emigration, render such works particularly valuable and interesting ; while the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free A- merican, by amplifying and embellishing the scenes presented to its view, enjoys the choicest luxuries of the entertainment they are calculated to afford. If it is conceded that discoveries made in North America are more important to the people of the United States than those made elsewhere, it will not be difficult to shew that none could have been made of so much importance to them in any part of the world as in the large tracts of country through which the late expedition, under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, passed. For if we take a view of the different discoveries and settlements pre- viously made, we will find that those tracts through which the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and their branches flow, commonly called unknown regions, were the only parts remaining unexplored, which could be considered valuable. iy - FRIEFACE. The first discovery of the Western World by Europeans of which we have any authentick ac- counts, being near the southern extremity of North America, drew, as might be expected, their atten- tion to that quarter ; and the rage which this grand discovery excited for other enterprizes of the same nature ; the avidity, with which avarice was stimu- lated to seize the precious metals, known to exist in those parts; the means held out for gratiſying am- bition ; and the prospects of a lucrative commerce, with many other objects and considerations tended largely to extend them; while the diminution of the Northern Continent to a narrow isthmus, and its large gulphs, bays and rivers, furnished and facilita- ted the means of exploring it. The spirit of enter- prize, however, was not confined to the southern extremity; but extending itself to the climates con- genial with those which it had left, and connecting with its researches the planting of colonies, impor- tant discoveries were made along the Atlantic coast. In the mean time the project of discovering a north- west passage to the East Indies led the boldest naval commanders of Europe through the inland seas, bays and straights of the north ; and at length produced surveys of the shores of the Pacific. To these dis- coveries, and those occasionally made during the set- tlement of the country within the limits of the Uni- ted States, and in Canada, the Hudson's Bay com- pany, though not famed for enterprize added some- thing to the stock of general information, and by their establishments aided others in their enterprizes. Mr. Hearne under the direction of this company, in an expedition, which lasted from the 7th of Decem- ber 1770 to the 30th of June 1772, proceeded from Prince of Wales’ Fort, on the Churchhill river in latitude 53d, 47 1-2m, north, and longitude 94d. 7 1-2m. west of Greenwich, or 19d, west of Phila- delphia, to the mouth of the Coppermine river, PREFACE. Y which according to some accounts is in latitude 72d. north and longitude 119d. west from Greenwich, or 44d. west of Philadelphia; but is laid down by others to be in latitude about 69d. north, and longitude 112d, west from Greenwich or 37d. west from Phi- ladelphia. Whatever the confined views and con- tracted policy of the Hudson's Bay Company may, however, have omitted in the way of discovery, the enterprize and perseverance of the Canadian traders, sometime since united under the name of the North West Company, have amply supplied. Prior to the year 1739 they had extended their discoveries and establishments along the numerous lakes and rivers situated north of that high tract of country which divides the Mississippi and Missouri waters from those which run towards the north and east, to with- in a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the summer of this year Mr. M'Kenzie made a voyage from Fort Chepewyan on the lake of the Hills in la- titude 58d.: 40m, north, and longitude 110d. Som. west from Greenwich or 35 d. 22 m. west from Phi. ladelphia, by the way of the Slave river, Slave lake, and a river by which this lake discharges its waters (since called M'Kenzie’s river) to the mouth of that river, where it falls into the North sea, in latitude 69d. 14 m. north and longitude 135d, west from Greenwich, or 59 d. 52m, west from Philadelphia. He again in the year 1793 penetrated from an esta- blishment on the Peace river in latitude 56d. 9m. wich, or 41d. 27m, west from Philadelphia, to the Pacific ocean in latitude 52d 24 m. north, and longi- tude 128d. 2m, west from Greenwich, or 52d 54 m. west from Philadelphia. - - - By the discoveries alluded to, and those occasion- arly made during the rapid settlement of the Country and the progress of enterprize, the principal divisions º and longitude 1 17d. 35 m. west from Green- h; ºf this Northern Continent has been explored and be A 2. º PREFACE. some known. The line separating these from the parts which remained unexplored and unknown, may be considered as commencing at the Pacific ocean in latitude about 38d. north, and running along the high lands and mountains between the waters which fall into the gulphs of California and Mexico and those which fall into the Missouri river, and continuing in that direction to the Mississippi; thence up that ri- wer to the source of its highest north western branch; thence along the high tract of country which divides the waters of the Missouri from those which fall into Hudson's Bay and the North sea; from whence it will continue across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific ocean in latitude about 52d, north. To the south of this general division line, the known coun- tries will be Old and New Mexico and a part of Louisiana; to the southeast, West and East Florida; to the east, the United States; to the northeast, Ca- nada, the Labrador country, part of New South Wales and of other countries round Hudson’s Bay; and to the north, part of New South Wales, New North Wales, the Athabasca and other countries containing the establishments of the Hudson’s Bay and North West Companies, and those explored by Hearne and M'Kenzie : leaving unknown and unexplored (except so far as the surveys made by navigators of the coast of the Pacific, and the imperfect ac- counts of traders who have ascended the Missouri have furnished information) all that large interme- diate tract, containing in breadth about 1000 miles: and in length in a direct line, about 1800 miles, and by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers nearly twice that distance. This tract from its situa- tion may be supposed to contain the chief part of those lands in the great western division of the conti- ment of North America fit for tillage : and this cir- cumstance will therefore in a special manner claim the attention of an agricultural people, render more PREFACE. vii. interesting a description of them, and attach addi- tional value to the history of the country. It will not be forgotten that an immense sum of treasure has been expended in the purchase of this country, and that it is now considered as belonging to the United States. Here at no distant period settlements may be formed; and in a much shorter term than has elapsed since the first were made in America, from which hath arisen a great, powerful and independent nation, the posterity of the present inhabitants of the Union may unfurl the standard of independence on the plains of the Missouri and Columbia. / With respect to the accuracy of the relations given in the following pages, it may be necessary to inform those readers not acquainted with the fact, that the principal object in sending out the expedition was to gain some correct account of the country : and that this might be done more effectually, and the infor- mation collected, preserved with more certainty, it was enjoined upon the several persons belonging to the corps, who were considered capable, to keep journals, and every necessary information and as- sistance given them for that purpose: these journals were also from time to time compared, corrected and any blanks, which had been left, filled up, and una- voidable omissions supplied. By thus multiplying the journals, revising and correcting them, the chances of securing to the country a true account of the progress of the expedition and of the disco- veries which should be made, especially should the party be attacked and defeated by the savages or meet with any other disasters in their hazardous enter- prize, were also multiplied. The following is an extract of a certificate deliver- ed by Captain Lewis to Mr. Gass, dated St. Louis 10th Oct. 1806. - - * As a tribute justly due to the merits of the said * Patrick Gass, I with chearfulness declare, that the viii PREFACE. º * º ample support, which he gave me, under every difficulty ; the manly firmness, which he evinced on every necessary ogcasion; and the fortitude with which he bore the fatigues and painful suſ. ferings incident to that long voyage, intitles him to my highest confidence and sincere thanks, while it eminently recommends him to the consideration and respect of his fellow citizens.” In determining the form in which the work should appear, the publisher had some difficulty. Two plans presented themselves. The one was to preserve the form of a daily journal (in which the original had been kept) and give a plain description of the coun- try and a simple relation of occurrences equally in- telligible to all readers; leaving to every person an opportunity of embellishing the scenes presented to him in his own way. The other plan was to more fully digest the subject, make the narrative more general, and assuming less of the journal form and style, describe and clothe the principal parts of it as his fancy might suggest. However far the lat- ter might have been proper had a foreign country been the subject, and the principal object of the publication, mere amusement, many objections oc- curred to it in the present case ; and rendered the former the most eligible, especially as by it the climate and face of the country will be more satis- factorily described. And Mr. Gass having declared that the beauties and deformities of its grandest scenes were equally beyond the power of description, no attempts have been made either by him or the publisher to give adequate representations of them. The publisher hopes that the curiosity of the reader will be in some degree gratified; that the information furnished will not be uninteresting; and that some aid will be furnished those who wish to acquire a Geographical knowledge of their country. 26th March, 1807. º º º JOURNAL er tº:- 190page; and (Itautiff or a CORPS OF DISCOVERY. JOURNAL. -º- CHAP. 7. ON Monday the 14th of May 1804, we left eur establishment at the mouth of the river du Bois or Wood river, a small river which falls into the Mississippi, on the east side, a mile below the Mis- souri, and having crossed the Mississippi proceeded up the Missourion our intended voyage of discovery, under the command of Captain Clarke. Captain Lewis was to join us in two or three days on our passage.” * The confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers is in latitude about 38 degrees and forty minutes north, and in longitude 92 degrees and an half west of London, or 17 and a third west of Philadelphia. The town of St. Louis is 14 miles below the mouth of the Missouri on the west side of the Mississippi; and Cahokia about 4 or 5 miles lower down on the east side. The longitude of these places is nearly the same with that of the mouth of the river St. Lºuis at the west end of lake Superior in 46 degrees 45 minutes north latitude; about 2 degrees west of New Or- leans in latitude 30 degrees north, and the same number of degrees east of the most western point of Hudson's Bay, in latitude about 59 degrees north : So that a line drawn from New Qrleans to Fort Churchhill, at the mouth of Churchhill river on the west side of Hudson's Bay, would Pass very near the mouth of the Missouri and the west end ºf lake Superior. - 12 JOURNAL. The corps consisted of forty-three-men (including Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, who were to com. mand the expedition) part of the regular troops of the United States, and part engaged for this parti- cular enterprize. The expedition was embarked on board a batteau and two periogues. The day was showery and in the evening we encamped on the north bank six miles up the river. Here we had leisure to reflect on our situation, and the nature of our engagements: and, as we had all entered this service as volunteers, to consider how far we stood pledged for the success of an expedition, which the government had projected; and which had been un- dertaken for the benefit and at the expence of the Union: of course of much interest and high expec- tation. The best authenticated accounts informed us, that we were to pass through a country possessed by nu- merous, powerful and warlike nations of savages, of gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous and cruel; and particularly hostile to white men. And fame had united with tradition in opposing mountains to our course, which human enterprize and exertion would attempt in vain to pass. The determined and resolute character, however, of the corps, and the confidence which pervaded all ranks dispelled every emotion of fear, and anxiety for the present; while a sense of duty, and of the honour, which would at- tend the completion of the object of the expedition; a wish to gratify the expectations of the government, and of our fellow citizens, with the feelings which novelty and discovery invariably inspire, seemed to insure to us ample support in our future toils, suſ- fering and dangers. - on the 15th we continued our voyage. It rained in the morning; but in the afternoon we had clear weather, and encamped at night on the north side of the river, JOURNAL. tº Wednesday 16th. We had a fine pleasant morn- ing; embarked early, and at 2 o'clºck in the after- noon arrived at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A number of the inhabitants came to see us. This is an old French village; in the country around which, a number of Americans have settled. We remained at St. Charles until the 21st, where Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under a salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which we returned with three more and a discharge of three guns. This evening was showery, and we again en- camped on the north side of the river. Thesday 22nd. We continued our voyage; passed Bonum creek on the south side, and having made fifteen miſes, encamped at the Cliffs on the north side of the river. Here we were visited by some Indians. Wednesday 23rd. At 6-o'clock in the morning we proceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather. Passed the mouth of the Osage” river on the south side, about a mile and an half below the Tavern Cove, a noted place among the French traders. One mile above this is the Tavern Creek. We encamped this evening on the south side of the river, and had our arms and ammunition inspected. Thursday 24th. We continued our voyage, and encamped at night on the south side. This day our boat turned in a ripple, and nearly upset. Friday 25th. We proceeded three miles and passed a creek on the south side, called Wood river; the banks of the river are here high and the land rich : arrived at St. Johns, a small French village situated on the north side, and encamped a quarter of a mile above it. This is the last settlement of white people on the river. * Perhaps Little Osage. - B 14 JOURNAL. Saturday 26th. This morning two of our people set out by land with a couple of horses. At seven we embarked and had loud thunder and heavy rain; passed Otter creek on the north side, and encamp- ed near its mouth. Sunday 27th. We passed Ash creek where there are high cliffs on the south side, and at five in the afternoon arrived at the mouth of Gaskenade river. On the south side one of our party killed a deer. We encamped for the night on an island opposite the mouth of Gaskenade river. This is a very handsome place,—a rich soil and pleasant country : Monday 28th. Our provisions and stores were put out to air and dry, and several of our men sent out to hunt. One of them killed a deer. The rºouth of the Gaskenade river is 157 yards wide. Tuesday 29th. Seven men were sent out to hunt; six of whom returned. We waited here until 5 o'clock P. M. for the man, who had not come in, and then proceeded three miles, passed Deer creek on the south side, and encamped a short distance above it on the same side. A periogue and eight men had been left for the hunter who had not returned. Wednesday 30th. After experiencing a very disa- greeable night, on account of the rain, we continued our voyage at seven o’clock A. M. and passed a cove where there were high cliffs on the north side oppo- site an island, called Mombran’s tavern. At twelve we had a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with hail; passed a creek called Rush creek, on the north side; and four miles further, Mud creek on the same side. Here the soil is good, with cotton wood, syca- more, oak, hickory, and white walnut ; with some grape vines, and an abundance of rushes. We halted and encamped at Grindstone creek on the south side of the river. Thursday 31st. We were obliged to remain at this encampment all day, on account of a strong wind JOURNAſ. 15 from the west. An Indian man and a squaw came down the river with two canoes, loaded with fur and peltry, and remained with us all night. Some of our hunters went out and killed a deer. Friday 1st June, 1804. Before daylight we em- barked and proceeded on our voyage ; passed Big Muddy creek on the north side; and on the oppo- site side saw high banks. Two and an half miles higher up, we passed Bear creek; and at 4 o'clock P. M. arrived at the Osage river; where we remain- ed during the evening and the next day. The Osage river is igy yards wide at its confluence with the Missouri, which, at this place, is 875 yards broad. The country on the south side is broken, but rich : and the land on the other of a most excellent quality. The two men who went by land with the horses came to us here: they represented the land they had pass- ed through as the best they had ever seen, and the timber good, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, hickory and black walnut. They had killed in their way five deer. The periogue left at the mouth of Gaskenade river came up with the man, who had been lost. Here our hunters went out and killed three deer. The Osage nation of Indians live about two hundred miles up this river. They are of a large size and well proportioned, and a very warlike people. Our arms and ammunition were all inspected here and found in good order. Sunday 3rd. Captain Lewis, with one of the men went out and killed a deer. At five in the aſternoon we embarked, and having proceeded six miles, en- camped at the mouth of Marrow creek on the south side. - Monday 4th. Three hunters went out this morn- ing. We continued our voyage, and during the day broke our mast by steering too close to the shore. In the evening we encamped on the south side, near 16 JOURNAL. lead mines; when our hunters canne in with seven deer. Tuesday 5th. We passed Mine creek on the south side, and Little Goodwoman creek on the north : also the creek of the Big Rock. We met two French- men in two canoes laden with peltry; passed a high cliff of rocks on the south side, and encamped on the north side. The land about this place is good and well timbered. - On the 6th we passed Saline creek on the south side ; and on the 7th the river of the Big Devil on the north; and Big Goodwoman’s creek on the same side, where we encamped. Friday 8th. We embarked and proceeded five miles, when we met four canoes loaded with fur and peltry : and passed the Mine river on the south side, which is 150 yards wide. The land here is also good and well timbered. Saturday 9th. We passed the Prairie of Arrows and Arrow creek on the south side.f. This is a beautiful country and the land excellent. The Mis- souri here is only 300 yards wide, and the current very strong. Three miles further we passed Black- bird creek on the north side, and encamped. This day going round some drift wood, the stern of the boat became fast, when she immediately swung round, and was in great danger; but we got her of without much injury. Sunday 10th. We proceeded five miles and passed a creek called Deer-hick creek on the north side; and three miles further the Two Charlottes on the same side. The mouths of these two rivers are very near each other: the first 70 and the other 100 yards wide. We encamped on the south side of the river - + Prairies are natural meadows, or pastures, without trees and covered with grass. JOURNAL. 17 at a prairie, and remained there the whole of the next day, the wind blowing too violent for us º proceed. Tuesday 12th. We set out early, and proceeded until five o'clock in the afternoon, when we met. five periogues loaded with fur and Pelty from the Sioux nation of Indians. We remained with the people to whom these periogues belonged all night; and got from them an old Frenchman, whb could speak the languages of the different nations of. Indians up the Missouri, and who agreed to go with us as an interpreter. - - - Wednesday 13th. We proceeded early on our yoy- age; passed a small creek on the north side in a long bend of the river, and encamped at the mouth of Grand river on the North side. This is as hand- some a place as I ever saw in an uncultivated state. Thursday 14th. At five o’clock in the morning we continued our voyage. The river having risen du- ring the night was difficult to ascend. At noon we passed some Frenchmen from the Poenese or Ponis nation of Indians, where they spent the last winter. In the evening we passed Snake creek on the north side and encamped on the same. Friday 15th. We renewed our voyage at five in the morning, and had very rapid water. There is a beautiful Prairie on the south side and the land high. Mulberries are in great abundance almost all along the river. We encamped on the north side, opposite an old Indian village. - Saturday 16th. Three men went out this morning to look for timber to make oars, but could find none suitable. On their return we continued our voyage; had cloudy weather and rapid water all day and en- camped on the north side. Sunday 17th. This morning was clear and at five we renewed our voyage. Having proceeded about a mile we halted to get timber for oars; and while we remained here to make them our hunters came in - B 2 - 18 JOURNAL, and brought with them a handsome horse, which they had found astray. They also brought a bear, which they had killed. Monday 188h. We remained here all day; and our hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south side there is high land and a long prairie; on the north the land is level and well timbered, with ash, sugar tree, black walnut, buck-eye, cotton wood and some other timber. Tuesday 19th. We passed Tabo creek on the south side, and a small creek on the north ; and encamped on the south side opposite a small lake about two miles distant. Wednesday 20th. At five in the morning we conti- nued our voyage, passed Tiger creek, a large creek that flows in from the north, and encamped on an is- land. The land along here is good on both sides of the river. On the 21st we had rapid water, and for about a mile had to warp up our boat by a rope. A creek cal- led Du Beau or Du Bois, falls in on the south side behind an island. We encamped in the evening on the south side. - Friday 22nd. It rained hard from four to seven in the morning, when we continued our voyage. About 12, one of our men went out and killed a large bear. We encamped at a handsome prairie on the south side opposite a large creek, called the Fire-prairie, and which is 60 yards wide. Saturday 23rd. We set out at five in the morning ; at 12 the wind blew so strong down the river that we were unable to proceed, and we encamped on an island and inspected the arms and ammunition.-- Captain Clarke went out with one of the men and did. not return this evening- - Sunday 24th. We had a fine morning, embarked at five and pursued our voyage : at nine Captain Clarke came to us and brought with him two deer JOURNAL. 19 and a bear. We passed a creek on the south side called Depie. At 12 we stopped to jirk our meat, and again proceeded at two : passed a creek on the north side and encamped on the south bank of the river.” Monday 25th. The morning was ſoggy and at see ven o'clock we pursued our voyage. The river here is narrow with high land on the south side. We pas- sed a creek on the south side called Labenile, and en- camped on an island. - Tuesday 26th. We embarked and set out at five o'clock in the morning ; passed a creek on the south side, called Blue-water. This afternoon we had some difficulty in passing a sandbar, the tow-rope having broke; but by the exertions of those on board, the boat was brought to shore without injury. We en- camped on the south side on a point at the confluence of the Canzan, or Kanzas river with the Missouri. It was agreed to remain here during the 27th and 28th where we pitched our tents and built bowers in front of them. Canzan or Kanzas, is 230 yards and a quarter wide, and navigable to a great distance. Our hunters kil- led 4 deer, and a young wolf, and caught another a- live. In the afternoon of the 29th we again pro- ceeded on our voyage, and encamped on the north side of the river. Saturday 30th. The day was clear and we conti- nued our voyage ; found high land on both sides of the river; and passed a large creek on the north side, called Platt, fifty yards wide. We broke our mast and encamped on the south side, where there were the most signs of game I ever saw. Sunday 1st, July, 1804. We set out at five in the morning, and having advanced 12 miles, encamped on Jirº is meat cut into small pieces and dried in the sun ºr by a fire. The Indians cure and preserve their meat in this way without salt, - 20 JOURNAL. an island opposite a prairie on the south side of the river. Monday 2nd. At sunrise we continued our voy- age, and met a quantity of drift wood which was carried down the stream ; this morning we passed a creek on the south side and encamped on the north opposite an old French village and fort, but all vacant. Tuesday 3d. We proceeded again at five, and continued our voyage until 12, when we stopt at an old trading place on the south side of the river. There we found a grey horse; but saw no appearance of any persons having lately encamped at that place. Wednesday 4th. We fired a swive! at sunrise in honour of the day, and continued our voyage ; passed a creek on the north side, called Pond creek, and at one o’clock stopt to dine. One of our people got snake bitten but not dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voyage, passed a creek on the north side, which we called INDEPENDENCE, encamped on the north side at an old Indianvillage situated in a hand- some prairie, and saluted the departing day with ano- ther gun. - Thur. 5th. We proceeded on our voyage at five in the morning; and found the land high on the south side. We went through a large bend full of sand bars where we had some difficulty in passing ; and en- camped on the south side at high prairie land. Friday 6th. We set out early this morning ; had a fine day, and made a good day’s voyage : and en- camped on the south side at Whipperwell creek. Saturday 7th. At an early hour we proceeded on our voyage; passed a high handsome prairie on the north side, and killed a wolf and a large wood rat on the bank. The principal difference between it and the common ratis, its having hair on its tail. Sunday 8th. We were under way this morning be- fore day light. The river here is crooked and nar- row. At one we came to a large island, with only a JOURNAL. 2 : small stream on the north side which we went up. A large creek called Nadowa flows in from the north ; and on this side we encamped. - Monday 9th. Early this morning we continued Out voyage. It rained hard till 12 o'clock. We passed a Creek on the south side, called Wolf creek. The man that was snake bitten is become well. We en- camped on the south side. - - Zilesday 10th. We set out early this morning and had a fair day and fair wind. There is a hand- some prairie on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on the north side- Wed, 11th. We also embarked early this morning; passed a creek on the north side, called Tarico, and halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha on the south side of the river. Seven hunters went out to day and two of them brought in five deer. Here we found another horse on the bank of the river, sup- posed to have been left by a hunting party last winter. Two of our men, who had gone to hunt on the south side of the river, did not return at night. Thursday 12th. We remained here this day, that the men, who were much fatigued, might take some rest. The hunters, who had remained on the south side of the river all night, came in, but had killed no- thing. Two more went to hunt on the north side and killed two deer. - Friday 13th. We were early under way this morn- ing with a fair wind. The day was fine. We passed a creek on the north side, and having made 20 miles and an half, encamped on a large sand bar. Saturday 14th. At day break it began to rain and continued until seven when it abated, and we set for- ward: but in a short time a gust of wind and rain came on so violent, that all hands had to leap into the water to save the boat. Fortunately this storm did not last long, and we went on to a convenient place and landed. Here we continued two hours and then 22 JOURNAL. proceeded. We saw some elk, but could not kill any of them ; passed a river on the north side, called Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the south side. Sunday 15th. We got under way at six o'clock; passed a creek on the south side ; and gathered some ripe grapes. There is high land and prairies on this side. Captain Clarke and two men went by land. At the head of an island, called Elk island, we found some pummice stone among the drift wood. We passed a creek on the south side, called Na-ma-ha, and encamped on the same. Afºnday 16th Early in the morning we proceeded on our voyage opposite a prairie ; had a fine day and fair wind, and passed a long island, above which is a place where the bank has slipped into the river. There are high rocky cliffs on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north : on which side we en- camped. The river here is two miles wide with ra- pid water. Two of our hunters met us here with two deer. Tuesday 17th. We remained here all day; and one of our hunters killed three deer. Wednesday 18th. Early this morning we prosecu- ted our voyage with a fair wind and pleasant weather. This is the most open country I ever beheld, almost one continued prairie. Two of our hunters went by land with the horses as usual. On the south side we passed high handsome banks or bluffs;of red and blue strata; * found some iron ore here, and encamped on the south side, where one of the hunters brought us two deer. Thursday 19th. At sun rise we renewed our voy- age, and passed a number of sand bars, and high land on the south side. Where we halted for dinner we * By Bluffs in the Western Country is understood high steep banks, which come close to and are washed at their base by the rivers. *OURNAL. 23 found a great quantity of cherries, called by some choak-cherries. We encamped for the night on an island of Willows. Friday 20th. We embarked early; passed high yellow banks on the south side and a creek, called the Water-which-cries, or the Weeping stream, op- posite a willow island, and encamped on a prairie on the south side. Saturday 21st. We set out early. It rained this morning but we had a fine breeze of wind. There are a great many willow islands and sand-bars in this part of the river. At nine the wind fell, and at one we came to the great river Platte, or shallow river, which comes in on the south side, and at the mouth is three quarters of a mile broad. The land is flat about the confluence. Up this river live three nations of Indians, the Otos, Panis and Loos, or Wolf In- dians. On the south side there is also a creek, called Butterfly creek. Sunday 22nd. We left the river Platte and proceed- ed early on our voyage, with fair weather. There is high prairie land on the south side, with some timber on the northern parts of the hills. We came nine miles from the mouth of Platte river, and landed on a willow bank. The hunters killed five deer and caught two beaver. - - Monday 23rd. Six men were sent out to make oars; and two to a nations of Indians up the Platte river, to inform them of the change of government in this country, and that we were here ready to treat with them. We hoisted a flag, and sent them another. Qur people were all busily engaged in hunting, making oars, dressing skins, and airing our stores, Provisions and baggage. We killed two deer and caught two beaver. Beaver appear plenty in this part of the country. - 24 JOURNAL. We continued here to the 27th.-On the 24th there were some showers; but during the remainder of the time there was clear weather. Our people were generally employed as before. The hunters killed five more deer; and the two men returned from the Indian village, without finding any of the natives, JOURNAL. 2 5 CHAP. If. Friday 27th. This forenoon we were engaged in loading the boats and preparing to start. At 12 we proceeded with a fair wind, and pleasant weather; went twelve miles, and encamped on a handsome prairie on the south side. Saturday, 28th. We set out early; had a cloudy morning: passed some beautiful hills and prairies, and a creek called Round-Knob creek, on the north side; and high bluffs on the south. We encamped. on the north side. Here two of our hunters came to us, accompanied by one of the Oto Indians. . Sunday, 29th. We embarked early, and continued eur voyage. One of our Frenchmen went with the Indian to bring more of them to meet us at some convenient landing place. At 12 one of our hunters came in with a deer and some elk meat. We re- newed our voyage at 3, passed a bank, where there was a quantity of fallen timber, and encamped on the north side. - Monday 30th. Our grey horse died last night. We set out early, and the hunters met us with a deer. At 9 we came to some timber land at the foot of a high bluff and encamped there in order to wait for the Indians. At the top of the bluff is a large hand- some prairie, and a large pond, or small lake about two miles from camp on the south side of the river. Two of our hunters went out and killed an animal, called a prarow, about the size of a ground hog and nearly of the same colour. It has a head similar to that of a dog, short legs and large claws on its fore feet; some of the claws are an inch and an half long. Our hunters again went out, but did not return this day. - C 26 JOURNAL, Tuesday 31st. One of our men went to visit some traps he had set, and in one found a young beaver, but little hurt and brought it in alive. In a short time he went out again and killed a large buck. Two other hunters came in about 12, who had killed two deer; but lost the horses. One of them with two other persons were sent out to hunt them, who re- turned at dark without finding them; and supposed they had been stolen by the Indians. Wednesday 1st Aug. 1804. Three of our men again went out to hunt the horses, but returned without them. They brought a deer, and two of our other hunters killed two more. Thursday 2nd. Some hunters went out this morn- ing; and two of them returned with the horses and an elk they had killed. The others brought in two large bucks and a fawn. The Indians we expected came at dark; but our Frenchman was not with them. We supposed he had been lost. This place we named Council-Bluff, and by observation we found to be in latitude 41 d. 17 m, north. Friday 3rd. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a council with the Indians, who appeared well pleased with the change of government, and what had been done for them. Six of them were made chiefs, three Otos and three Missouris. We renewed our voyage at 3 o'clock; went six miles and encamped on the south side ; where we had a storm of wind and rain, which lasted two hours. - Saturday 4th. We were early under way this morning, and had a fair day. We passed a creek on the south side, which came out of ponds. One of our men went out this morning and did not re- turn: another came to us and brought a deer. We encamped on the south side. - Sunday 5th, We set out early, but a storm of rain and wind obliged us to stop two hours. It then clear- JOURNAI. º ed and we continued our voyage; passed prairies on both sides, and encamped on the north side. The river here is very crooked and winding. To arrive at a point only 370 yards from this place, the pas- sage by water is twelve miles. - Monday 6th. We proceeded at an early hour this morning, after a stormy night of wind and rain : passed a creek on the north side, at the back of an island, called Soldiers creek; and encamped on the south side. Tuesday 7th. We set out early this morning and continued our voyage till 12, when four of our peo- ple were dispatched to the Oto nation of Indians at- ter the man who had not returned on the 4th, with orders to take him, dead or alive, if they could see him. There is no timber in this country, except some cotton wood and willows in the bends of the river. All the high land is a continued prairie. We encamped on the north side. The musquetoes here are very numerous, and troublesome. - Wednesday 8th. We embarked early, passed a small river on the north side, called Little Sioux. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. One of the hunters killed a pelican on a sand bar, and Captain Lewis killed another, very large. We encamped on the north bank. In the bag under the bill and neck of the pelican, which Captain Lewis killed, we put five gallons of water. Thursday 9th. The fog was so thick this morning, that we could not preceed before 7, when we went on under a gentle breeze, and having advanced eleven miles, came to a place where the river by cutting through a narrow neck of land, reduced the distance fifteen miles. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt and killed a small turkey. We en- camped on the south side, where we found the mus- quetoes very troublesome. *y 19th. We embarked early, passed high 23 JOURNAL, yellow banks on the south side, and encamped on the north. - Saturday 11th. A storm came on at three o’clock this morning and continued till nine ; notwithstand- ing which, we kept under way till ten, when we came to a high bluff, where an Indian chief had been buri- ed, and placed a flag upon a pole, which had been set up at his grave. His name was Blackbird, king of the Mahas ; an absolute monarch while living, and the Indians suppose can exercise the power of one though dead. We encamped in latitude 42d, 1 m. 3s. 3, as ascertained by observation. - Sunday 12th. We embarked and got under way before day light. The musketoes last night were worse than I ever experienced. We went round a bend, of eighteen miles, the neck of which was only 97.4 yards across; passed high bluffs of yellow clay on the south side of the river and low land on the north ; and encamped on a sand island. Monday 13th. We proceeded this morning with a fair wind; and at 2 landed on a sandy beach, near the Maha village, on the south side of the river. A ser- geant and one man were sent to the village, who did not return this day. Tuesday 14th. The sergeant and man returned from the village ; but they had found no Indians there. Some of our hunters went out but killed no- thing. Game appears scarce here. While at this place we provided ourselves with a new mast. Wednesday 15th. Captain Clarke and ten of the party went to the Maha creek to fish, and caught 387 fish of different kinds. We discovered smoke on the opposite side of the river, and four men crossed to see if any of the Mahas or Sioux Indians were there ; but could not discover any. There had been fire there some days, and the wind lately blowing hard had caused the fire to spread and smoke to rise. We continued at this place until the 20th. Captain Lewis JOURNAL. 29. went with a party of twelve men tº fish and took 709 fish, 167 of which were large pike. The fish here are generally pike, cat, sun perch and other common fish, What we caught were taken with trails or brush nets. On the 18th the party who had been sent in pursuit of the man who had been absent since the 4th, returned with him, and eight Indians and a Frenchman; but left our Frenchman behind who had gone out to hunt the horses. On the 19th a council was held with these Indians, who appeared to wish to make peace with all nations. This day sergeant Floyd became very sick and re- mained so all night. He was seized with a complaint somewhat like a violent colick. Monday 20th. Sergeant Floyd continued very iſ. We embarked early, and proceeded, having a fair wind and fine weather, till 2 o’clock, when we landed for dinner. Here sergeant Floyd died, notwithstand- ing every possible effort was made by the command- ing officers, and other persons, to save his life. We went on about a mile to high prairie hills on the north side of the river, and there interred his remains in the most decent manner our circumstances would admit; we then proceeded a mile further to a small river on the same side and encamped. Our com- manding officers gave it the name of Floyd’s river; to perpetuate the memory of the first man who had fallen in this important expedition. . Tuesday 21st. We set out early; passed handsome pale coloured bluffs, willow creek and the Sioux ri- wer on the north side : and having come upwards of 20 miles, encamped on the south side. Wednesday 22nd. We proceeded early upon our voyage; passed bluffs on the south side, where there is copperas, allum and ore of some kind; also passed a creek. The high land on the south side for nine or ten miles runs close to the river, where there are 36 JOURNAL. cedar bluffs of various colours. We encamped cº- the north side. Thursday 23d. We proceeded early this morning with a fair wind. The river here becomes more straight than we had found it for a great distance be- low. Captain Clarke and one of the men killed a deer and a buffaloe, and some of the men were sent to dress and bring the buffaloe to the boat. We stop- ped at a prairie on the north side, the largest and handsomest, which I had seen. Captain Clarke cal- led it Buffaloe prairie. The men having returned, we again went on ; but the wind changed and we were obliged to halt for the present. While we were detained here we saited two barrels of buffaloe meat. At five in the evening we proceeded some distance and encamped on the south side. - Friday 24th. This morning was cloudy with some rain. Captain Clarke went by land. We passed cedar bluffs on the north side, a part of which were burning ; and there are here to be found mineral substances of various kinds. There is also a quanti- ty of small red berries, the Indian name for which in English means rabbit berries. They are handsome small berries and grow upon bushes about 10 feet high. Capain Ciarke came to us and had killed two elk and a fawn, we passed a creek called White-stone creek; landed and remained here all night to jirk our Ameat. - - Saturday 25th. Two of our men last night caught nine catfish, that would together weigh three hun- dred pounds. The large catfish are caught in the Missouri with hook and line. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke went to see a hill on the north side of the river where the natives will not or pretend that they will not venture to go, and say that a small peo- ple live there, whom they are afraid of. At 11 o'clock, the gentlemen not having returned, we set sail with a gentle breeze from the S. E. passed black JOURNAL. s bluffs on the south side, and Continued on nine miles and encamped. Two of our hunters came in who had killed a large elk, Captains Lewis and Clarke did not return this evening. - Sunday 26th. Some of the men went out to dress and bring in the elk. About 10 o'clock Captain Lºw- is and Captain Clarke with the party accompanying them came to camp. ; but had not been able to disco- wer any of those small people. The hill is in a hand- some prairie : and the party saw a great many buffa- loe near it. About 11 we renewed our voyage and passed some timber land on the south side; and black and white bluffs on the same side, we encamped on the north side opposite a creek called Pettit-Ark, or Little-bow. - - Monday 27th. Got under way at sunrise, and pas- sed white bluffs on the south side. At 2 we stopped for dinner, and an Indian of the Mahas nation, who lives with the Sioux came to us here, at the mouth of the Sacque river; and while we remained here two more came in. A sergeant with our old French- man and another man went with two of the Indians to their camps, and the other went with us in the boat. We encamped on a sand beach on the north side. - Tuesday 28th. We set forward early. The day was pleasant, and a fair wind from S. E. At 8 we halted for breakfast, when our young Indian left us to go to his camp at a handsome praiſie, gently rising from the river on the north side; a small distance above which are beautiful groves of Cotton wood on both sides of the river. About 12 one of the perio- gues run against a snag which broke a hole in it. We then crossed to the south side to mend the periogue, and to wait to receive the Indians we expected ; and landed a little below some high bluffs. Our camp is in a wide bottom, in which are large elm and oak trees, - - 32 JOURNAL. Wednesday 29th. At 8 o’clock last night a storm of wind and rain came on from the N. west, and the rain continued the greater part of the night. The morning was cloudy with some thunder. We are generally well supplied with Catfish, the best I have ever seen. Some large ones were taken last night. In the afternoon the men who had gone to the In- dian camp returned and brought with them sixty Indians of the Sioux nation. They encamped for the evening upon the opposite shore, and some corn and tobacco were sent over to them. The sergeant who had gone to their camp informed me that their lodges, forty in number, are about nine miles from the Missouri on the Sacque river. They are made of dressed buffaloe and elk skins, painted red and white, and are very handsome. He said the women are homely and mostly old ; but the young men likely and active. They killed a dog as a token of friend- ship. One of our men killed a deer. - Thursday 30th. A foggy morning, and heavy dew. At nine o’clock the Indians came over the river. Four of them, who were musicians, went backwards and forwards, through and round our camp, singing and making a noise. After that ceremony was over they all sat in council. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke made five of them chiefs, and gave them some small presents. At dark Captain Lewis gave them a grained deer skin to stretch over a half keg for a drum. When that was ready they all assembled round some fires made for the purpose : two of them beat on the drum, and some of the rest had little bags of undressed skins dried, with beads or small pebbles in them, with which they made a noise. These are their instruments of musick. Ten or twelve acted as musicians, while twenty or thirty young men and boys engaged in the dance, which was continued during the night. No Squaws made their appearnce among this party. JOURNAſ. 33 Friday 31st. A clear morning. The Indians re- mained with us all day, and got our old Frenchman to stay and go with their chief to the city of Wash- ington. Some of them had round their necks strings of the white bear's claws, some of the claws three inches long. 34 JOURNAL. CHAP. III. Saturday 1st Sefit. 1804. We renewed tour voyage early; passed high bluffs on the south side, and high prairie land on the north ; on this side, the hills come close to the river; and are so near on both sides, as not to be more than two miles from each other. During last night we had hard wind and some rain, which continues to fall occasionally during the day.— About 1 o'clock we passed a rich prairie on the south side, and encamped on the north side, at the lower end of an island. - - - Sunday 2nd. At 1 o'clock last night we had hard thunder, lightning and rain, which continued about two hours. We set out early in the morning, along the north side of the island: there is handsome prai- tie land on the south. Three of our men went on the island to hunt. When we landed for breakfast we heard several guns fired on the island, and saw six elk swimming across the river about a mile above where we had halted. Two of our men went up and killed one of them ; those on the island killed three. bout twelve, the wind blew so hard down the river, that we could not proceed, and we landed on the north side, where there is an extensive prairie. It was cloudy and rained till 4 when it cleared up. We remained here for the night and dried our meat. On the bank opposite our camp is an ancient fortifi- cation or breastwork, similar to those which have been occasionally discovered on the western waters. The two ends run at right angles to the river, and the outside, which is 2500 yards in length, parallel to it: there is no breastwork thrown up next to the ri- JOURNAL. - 35 wer, the bank as is supposed, serving as a sufficient defence on that side.* Monday 3d. We set out early, and had a clear day : passed yellow bluffs on the north side and a small creek, called Plumb creek. Here the river turns at right angles to the left, till it eaches the hills on the south side, then winds gradually to the right. There is no timber in this part of the country ; but contin- ued prairie on both sides of the river. A person by going on one of the hills may have a view as far as the eye can reach without any obstruction, or inter- vening objest; and enjoy the most delightful pros- pects. During this day’s voyage we found the hills on the opposite sides of the river generally not more than two miles apart, and the river meandering through them in various directions. We encamped on the south side. Tuesday 4th. We proceeded early on our voyage, passed a creek on the south side about 30 yards wide, * The description of this Breastwork corresponds exactly with the accounts given of numerous antient fortifications discovered in the Western Country, which are known and represented to be generally of an oblong form, situate on streng and well chosen ground, and contiguous to water. These works from the examinations which have been made, are supposed to have been erected more than 1000 years ago; or 700 befºre the discovery of Americaby Columbus. They *ppear to have existed about the same period, throughout ºil, or the greateripart of that vast tarct of Country bounded by the Alleghany Mountains on the east and the Rocky Mountains on the west, and including the most favourable latitudes of North America. Perhaps some have been found east of the Alleghany Mountains. Have numerous antient *ations, more civilized and disposed to labour than any of the modern Indian tribes, inhabited this Country And have these fortifications been their humble substitutes for the walled and fortified Cities of the old world in remote ages Or, has this been the Roman Empire of the New world and has it been destrºyed by other hordes of barbarians, ** fierce and cruel as those who destroyed that of the old 36 JOURNAL. called Paint ereek; and high yellow bluffs on the same side. About a mile and an half further we passed another creek on the same side 50 yards wide, called White-paint creek; and yellow bluffs on the north side. About four miles higher up, we passed a river, on the south side, 152 yards wide, called Rapid-water river : Up this river the Poncas nation of Indians lived not long since. We encamped on the south side among some cedar trees. Wednesday 5th. We set sail early this morning with a fair wind, and had a clear day. We passed a long island covered with timber, and three men went to hunt on it. On the north side are yellow bluffs, out of which issue several beautiful springs. Opposite the head of the island, on the south side, flows in a river, called Pania river; and about three miles higher up, on the north side, a creek, called Goat creek. On the hills above this creek we saw some goats or antelopes, which the French call cab- rea. About 4 we encamped on an island, where we made and put in a new mast. The three men, who went to hunt on the long island killed a deer and an elk; and two more went out from camp and killed another deer and an elk, both young. Thursday 6th. We set out early and had a cloudy morning: passed a handsome bottom prairie on the north side; at the upper end of which is a grove of cotton wood, and a long range of dark coloured bluffs on the south side. About 9 o'clock it began to rain and we had strong wind ahead. There are a great number of sand bars, and we had much difficulty in getting along. We encamped on the north side and one of our men killed two deer. - *iday 7th. We set sail early, and had a clear day: passed high prairie land on both sides; but there is some cotton wood on the low points in the bottoms. On the south side we found a scaffold of meat neatly dried. This had been left by one of our men, who JOURNAL. 37 had gone out on the 26th of last month to hunt the horses, and supposing we had got a distance ahead, proceeded up the river several days jºurney, before he discovered his error. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with some of the men went to view a round knob of a hill in a prairie, and on their return killed a prairie dog, in size about that of the smallest spe- cies of domestic dogs. - Having understood that the village of those small dogs was at a short distance from our camp, Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with all the party, except the guard, went to it; and took with them all the kettles and other vessels for holding water; in order to drive the animals out of their holes by pouring in water; but though they worked at the business till night they only caught one of them. Saturday 8th. We proceeded early on our voyage, and had a clear day and fair wind from the S. E. Passed the bed of a creek without water. At 9 I went out with one of our men, who had killed a buffa- loe and left his hat to keep of the vermin and beasts of prey; but when we came to the place, we found the wolves had devoured the carcase and carried off the hat. Here we found a white wolf dead, supposed to have been killed in a contest for the buffaloe. We passed high bluffs on the south side and burnt prairie on the north. We encamped on an island covered with timber; and having a number of buffaloe on it. Captain Lewis who had been out with some of the men hunting informed us he had passed a trading house, built in 1796. This day we killed two buſa- -loe, a large and a small elk, a deer and two beaver. Sunday 9th. We set out early, and passed twº small creeks on the north side, high bluffs on the south, and at 1 o'clock landed for dinner at a smal creek on the south side. One of our hunters brougº in a deer and two fawns. This day we saw seve gangs or herds, of buffaloe on the sides of the hill. 38 JOURNAL. - One of our hunters killed one, and Captain Clarke's black servant killed two. We encamped at sunset on the south side. Monday 10th. We had a foggy morning, but mo- ved on early ; passed high bluffs on the north side, and saw some timber in the bottom on the south side. At 12 we came to black sulphur bluffs on the south side. On the top of these bluffs we found the skel- eton or back bones of a fish, 45 feet long, and petri- fied : part of these bones were sent to the City of Washington. One of our sergeants discovered a large salt spring about a mile and an half from the river. A hunter went up the bank and killed an elk. We left a periogue for the men who were dressing the elk, and proceeded up the north side of the river two miles, when we were obliged to return on ac- count of sand bars, and to take the south side. Here we saw eight elk swimming the river, and had seen a great many buffaloe during the day. We encamped on an island and killed one buffaloe. Tuesday 11th. We set sail before day light with a fair wind; passed an island covered with timber, and high hills and prairie on both sides of the river. At 1 o'clock it began to rain. We saw some person coming down the river on horseback, when we came to land and found it was the man who had preceded us with the horses. He had left one of the horses that had failed. We now had only one horse left. This man had been absent 16 days, and his bullets being expended, he subsisted 12 days almost wholly on grapes. The hills here come close to the river on both sides. One of the men went by land with the horse, and we continued our voyage, until night, though it rained very hard; and encamped on the south side. Captain Clarke with two or three of the men who had gone out to hunt, killed two elk, four deer and one porcupine. Wednesday 12th. We set out as usual and had a JOURNAL. 39 cloudy day; passed a long range of black bluffs on the south side, and an island covered with timber, which is all the timber that can be seen from this place. The country round is all hills and prairie. Captain Clarke, myself and another went out to hunt, and did not return till after dark. The boat had much difficulty in passing on account of the sand bars and strong current, and did not make to day more than four miles. Thursday 13th, Four beaver were taken last night. We set sail early ; the morning was cloudy with some rain and wind ahead; passed a creek and a long range of bluffs on the south side. Some of our men went out to hunt; but did not return this evening. We encamped on the north side. Friday 14th. We proceeded as yesterday, and with the same kind of weather, Had considerable difficulty in getting along, on account of the shallow- ness of the river; all hands in the water dragging the boat. At 8 we halted for breakfast, and the men who went to hunt yesterday came in, and had only killed a porcupine. Three beaver were caught last night. The musketoes are as troublesome as they have been any time in summer. We passed black bluffs on the south side, and an island with timber on it. Passed a creek on the same side and encamped on it. The man who had gone by land with the horse came to us here; had killed a hare. Captain Clarke killed a goat or antelope. Saturday 15th. A cloudy morning. We contin- ued our voyage early, and passed a creek on the sºuth side and black bluffs on the north. Passed White river on the south side; one of the men and myself went up it to examine the country, and encamped about twelve miles from the mouth, where * is 150 yards broad. We found good bottoms on this creek; but timber scarce, and none upon the country with small horns and long tails. The tail of - - JOURNAL. - - - hills. The current and colour of the water are much like those of the Missouri. Sunday 16th. We set out for the boat across the hills, on the tops of which are level plains with a great number of goats and buffaloe on them. Came to the head waters of a creek and kept down it a S. E. course, and on our way killed three deer. We proceeded on to its mouth, which I computed to be 1.4 miles from that of the White river. Ha- ving found the boat had passed we proceeded up the river, and came to a handsome bottom, where our people had encamped to dry the provisions and stores. In our absence the men had killed some deer and two buffaloe. Monday 17th. As the weather was fair we remain- ed here during the day. Captain Lewis and some men went out to bunt, and killed thirteen common, and two black-tailed deer ; three buffaloe and a goat. The wild goat in this country differ from the com- mon tame goat, and is supposed to be the real ante- Hope. The black-tailed, or mule deer have much larg- er ears than the common deer and tails almost without hair, except at the end, where there is a bunch of black hair. There is another species of deer in this one which we killed was 18 inches long. One of our men caught a beaver, and killed a prairie wolf— These are a small species of wolves, something larg- er than a fox, with long tails and short ears. Tuesday 18th. We continued our voyage; the day was clear and pleasant: passed some timber land on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north ; also an island and a great number of sand bars. Yes- terday captain Lewis while hunting killed a bird not common in the states: it is like a magpie and is a bird of prey. This day we killed eleven deer and a wolf, and halted and encamped on the south side of the river in order to jirk our meak - - journal. 4: - Hºdnesday 19th. We set out early and had a clear day passed large bottoms on both sides ºf the river covered with timber. We saw some buffaloe swim- ming the river and killed. two of them, T here Is an island here, opposite which a river flows in on the north side. This river is formed of three, which - unite their waters just above its mouth : and imme- diately above the confluence is a crossing place, cal- led the Sioux-crossing-place of the three rivers. At the upper end, a creek, called Elm creek, connes in on the south side, and two miles above another creek called Wash creek, falls in on the same side. About two miles further we passed another creek called Night creek where we encamped on the south side. Three black tailed deer were killed this day. Thursday 20th. We renewed our voyage at an early hour, and had a clear day and fair wind. Pas: sed handsome rising prairies on the north side, and bottoms covered with timber on the south side. Two of the men with the horse went across the neck of the Long, or Grand bend, which we were obliged to go round with the boat, a distance of 30 miles. At 1 o'clock we stopped for dinner, and Captain Lewis - and one of the men went to hunt, Captain Clarke had gone out in the morning. At 2 we proceeded again on our voyage, and passed a long chain of bluffs on the north side, of a dark colour. From these and others of the same kind the Missouri gets its muddy colour. The earth of which they are composed dissolves like sugar; ºvery rain washes down great quantities of it, and the rapidity of the stream keeps it mixing and afloat in the water, until it reaches the mouth of the Mississippi. We encamp- ed at 7 o'clock on a sand beach on the north side. Here Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and the other man joined us. They had killed two goats and two deer. At 1 o'clock at night, the bank where we ere stationed began to fall so much, that we were - D 2 43 JOURNAL. obliged to rouse all hands, and go on a mile and cross the river before we could again encamp. Friday 21st. We set out early, the day was clear, and we proceeded on four miles along bluffs on the south side, when we came to the termination of the Grand bend, about a mile from the place of our en- campment on the 19th–We again went on, having black bluffs on the south and a handsome bottom on the north side ; and beyond these a cedar bottom on the south side and bluffs on the north ; passed a creek on the south side, called Tyler's creek; and encamped on the north side. Saturday 22nd. We embarked early in a foggy morning, saw some timber on the south side and high plains on the north. About 3 o'clock we pas- sed cedar island, one of the Three-Sisters, where Mr. Lucelle had built a fort of cedar. The space picketed in is about 65 or 70 feet square, with centry boxes in two of the angles. The pickets are 13 1-3 feet above ground. In this square be built a house 45 1-2 by 32 1-2 feet, and divided it into four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in, one to be used as a common hall and the other for a family house. Here the two men came to us with the horse. They had killed a white wolf and some deer. We proceed- ed on, passed a creek, and islands of the three sisters: and an old Indian camp, where we found some of their dog-poles, which answer for setting poles. The reason they are called dog-poles, is because the Indians fasten their dogs to them, and make them draw them from one camp to another loaded with skins and other articles.” We encamped on the north side. * Mr. Mackenzie speaking of the Knisteneaux, a numer- ous nation of Indians spread over a vast extent of country extending south westerly from the coast of Labrador, ºrth of the St. Laurence and its Lakes and the Lake Winnipic, JOURNAL. 43. - Sunday 23rd. We went on early, and had a clear morning; passed some timber on the north side and high land on the south ; also a creek on the north side called Smoke creek; passed Elk island, a hand- some bottom on the north side covered with timber and barren hills on the south. At six in the evening we saw four Indians on the south side and encamped on the north. Three of the Indians swam over to us: they belonged to the Sioux, and informed us that there were more of their nation not far distant. We sent them over the river again. One of our men killed an antelope. Monday 24th. We set sail early with fair weather, and passed a small creek on the south side. About 3 o'clock the man who had gone by land with the horse came to us, and informed us that he had gone that morning on an island to kill elk, and that º he was there the Indians had stolen the horse. He had killed three elk, and the periogues remained behind to bring on the meat. We saw five Indians on the bank, but we could not understand each other. We cast anchor to wait for the periogues; one of which having came up, we went on to the mouth of the Tin- ton or Teeton river, where we anchored about 100 yards from the shore on the south side. The guard and cooks only landed, the rest slept in the boat. The five Indians remained with us all night. We had a Frenchman aboard a periogue, who understood and could speak a little of the Sioux language. The Indians gave us to understand the chiefs would come to-morrow, and that if their young men had taken east of Elk river, south of the Lake of the Hills, and west, sºuth and east of James's Bay and the southern part of Hudson's Bay, says, “ In the winter when the waters are frozen, they make their journies, which are never of any greatlength, with sledges drawn by dogs.” General History of the Fur Trade. 44 JOURNAL. - the horse, they would have him given up. These Indians are a band of the Sioux, called the Tinton or Teeton-Band. - Tuesday 25th. We stayed here to wait for the In- dians, who were expected to arrive, and at 10 o’clock they came, about 50 in number. The commanding officers made three of them chiefs and gave them some presents. Five of them came on board and re- mained about three hours. Captain Clarke and some of our men in a periogue went ashore with them ; but the Indians did not seem disposed to permit their return. They said they were poor and wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clarke insisted on coming to the boat; but they refused to let him, and said they had soldiers as well as he had. He told them his soldiers were good, and that he had more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty such nations in one day. After this they did not threaten any more, and said they only wanted us to stop at their lodge, that the women and children might see the boat. Four of them came aboard, when we pro- ceeded on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in the middle of the river. The Indians re- mained with us all night. Wednesday 26th. We set out early, and proceeded on four miles. The bank of the river on the south side was covered all the way with Indians; and at 10 o’clock we met the whole band, and anchored about 100 yards from the shore. Captain Lewis, the chiefs, and some men went on shore, the Indians were peaceable and kind. After some time Capt. Lewis returned on board, and Capt. Clarke went on shore. When the Indians saw him coming they met him with a buffaloe robe, spread it out and made him get into it, and then eight of them carried him to the council house. About an hour after some of them came for Captain Lewis, and he landed; and eight of them carried him to the council house in the same JOURNAſ. 45 manner, they had carried Captain Clarke. They killed several dogs for our people to. feast on, and spent the greater part of the day in eating and sº ing. At night the women assembled, and danced till it o'clock: then the officers came on board with two chiefs, who continued with us until the morning: Thursday 27th. We remained here all day. Capt. Lewis, myself and some of the men went over to the Indian camp. Their lodges are about eighty in num- ber, and contain about ten persons each; the greater part women and children. The women were emi- ployed in dressing buffaloe skins, for clothing for themselves and for covering their lodges. They are the most friendly people I ever saw ; but will pilfer if they have an opportunity. They are also very dirty : the water they make use of, is carried in the paunches of the animals they kill, just as they are emptied, without being cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various kinds; I had never seen any thing like some of these dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how they were made.- - About 15 days ago they had had a battle with the Mahas, of whom they killed 75 men and took 25 women prisoners, whom they have now with them. They promised to Capt. Lewis that they would send the prisºners back and make peace. - About 3 o'clock we went aboard the boat accom. panied with the old chief and his little son. In the evening Captain Clarke and some of the men went over, and the Indians made preparations for a dance. At dark it commenced. Captain Lewis, myself and sºme of our party went up to see them perform. Their band of musick, or orchestra, was composed of about twelve persons beating on a buffaloe hide, and shaking small bags that made a rattling noise. They had a large fire in the centre of their Camp : ºn one side the women, about 80 in number, formed in a solid column round the fire, with sticks in their 46 JOURNAL. hands, and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed, tied on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the fire, rising and failing on both feet at once; keep- ing a continual noise, singing and yelling. In this manner they continued till 1 o'clock at night, when we returned to the boat with two of the chiefs. On coming aboard, the periogue run across the bow of the boat and broke the cable. All hands were roused to row the boat ashore; the chiefs called aloud, and a number of the warriors came to our assistance, but we did not need it : the circumstance, however, shewed their disposition to be of service. This un- fortunate accident lost to us our anchor. Friday, 28th. This morning we dragged the river all round where the boat lay, but could not find the anchor. At 9 o'clock we made preparations to sail; some of the chiefs were on board, and concluded to go some distance with us. When we went to shove off, some of the Indians took hold of the rope and would not let it go. This conduct had like to be attended with bad consequences, as Captain Lewis was near giving orders to cut the rope and to fire on them. The chiefs, however, went out and talked with them : they said they wanted a carrot of to- bacco, and that if we gave that we might go. The tobacco was given them, and we went of under a gentle breeze of wind. We passed high land on the north side and bottom on the south. We proceeded 4 miles, and then saw an Indian following us along the beach, when Captain Lewis went in a periogue and brought him on board. He informed us that 300 more Indians had come to their camp, and de- sired we should stop and talk with them. We did not then stop, but proceeded on, and he remained on board. We passed a fine bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bare hills on the south. We made two large stones serve the purpose of an JOURNAL. 47 anchor, and at sunset anchored for the night, near a small sand-bar in the middle of the river. While I was at the Indian camp yesterday they yoked a dog to a kind of car, which they have to haul their baggage from one camp to another ; the nation having no settled place or village, but are al- ways moving aboutit The dogs are not large, much resemble a wolf, and will haul about 70 pounds each. # It appears that these people, (in some respects reºm- bling the wandering-Arabs) are an unsettled, ferocious, blood-thirsty race, and have been great destroyers of the Algonquin nation, who inhabit the country about lake Su- perior. Mr. M'Kenzie states the following circumstance, * Within three miles of the last portage” (a place near lake Superior) “is a remarkable rock, with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, notwithstanding its lakes, rivers and rocks, it was not inaccessible to their ene- ºtes.” General History of the Fur Trade. 48 JOURNAL. crºp. ry. - Saturday 29th. We set sail early and had fair weather ; passed a handsome bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bluffs on the south. We saw several Indians on the south side walking up the shore; spoke to them and found they were some of those we left yesterday. There were one or two of the chiefs with them. They requested us to give them a carrot of tobacco for the chiefs of the other band to smoke. We sent them two carrots to a sand bar, where they could get it; but told them we should not go on shore again, untill we came to the nation of the Aricaris, commonly called Ricka- rees, Rickrees, or Rees. The Missouri is very shal- low at this time and full of sand bars. We passed an old village on the south side, where the Rickarees lived five years ago, and raised corn in the bottom, around the village. We encamped on a sand beach on the south side of the river. Sunday 30th. We set out early in a cloudy morn- ing ; passed black buffs on the south side, and hand- some bottom prairie on the north; saw an Indian on the shore, and the chief we had on board spoke to him. He said he wished to come on board and go with us to the Rees; but we did not take him. The wind was fair and we made 9 miles by 10 o’clock. We saw a great number of Indians coming down to the river on the south side. We stopt for breakfast about 200 yards from the shore; then proceeded a- bout a mile ; near to the place where the Indians were encamped on the south side ; we halted and spoke to them and then went on under a fine breeze of wind. A short time before night, the waves ran very - - -- - - - - JOURNAL. 49 - - - - - high and the boat rocked a great deal, which so a aimed our old chief, that he would not go any * ºne, we encamped on the north side. . Mºnday 1st Oct 1804. We early continued Qut voyage, the morning was cloudy but the wind fair and we sailed rapidly. At 9 we passed the river De Chien, or Dog river; a large river that comes in on the south side. A short distance above this river, the sand bars are so numerous, that we had great difficulty to get along : and encamped on one in the middle of the river. There were some French tra- dets on the other bank of the river, and one of them came over and remained with us all night. Tuesday 2nd. We set sail before day light. A Frenchman came on board, who could speak English. He mentioned it as his opinion, that we should see no more Indians, until we should arrive at the nation of Rees. We passed a range of black bluffs on the north side and a large bottom on the south, where there was some timber on the bank of the river. About 2 o'clock we discovered some Indians on the hills on the north side, and one of them came down to the bank and fired a gun; the object or intention we did not well understand, but were ready to meet an attack. We passed black bluffs on the south side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to the Indian, who said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole band, and that there were 20 lodges of them. We told him we had seen two of their chiefs. and given them a flag and medal. We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped on a sand bar in the middle of the river. - º 3rd. The morning was cloudy, and * * fell. The land is high on both sides of the liver. About 12 o'clock the wind began to blow so hard down the stream, that we were unable to bo ceed, and we halted under some high bluffs, where. - - - - - E. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 50 JOURNAL. - driftwood was plenty. At 3 we continued our voy- age; passed a long range of dark coloured bluffs on the south side and bottom, with some timber, on the north. We encamped on the south side. Thursday 4th. We set out early ; but were obliged to return to the place where we halted yesterday at 12 and to take the other side of the river; the water was so shallow and sand bars so numerous. At 9 o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see us, when we stopped for breakfast. We informed him that we were not traders, that we had seen his chief and told him all we had to say. We proceeded on, passed a creek on the south side, called Teel creek, and encamped on the upper part of an island. Friday 5th. This morning there was a white frost; the day clear and pleasant. About 11 we saw some goats swimming the river, when one of our hunters ran up the shore and killed four of them, and we took them into the boat and periogues as they floated down. We passed a creek on the north side, called Hidden creek, and high black bluffs on the south side.” Some of our hunters having gone on an island to hunt scared a prairie wolf into the river, which we killed. We passed a creek on the south side called White Goat creek and encamped on the north side. Saturday 6th. We continued our voyage early, and had a clear day; passed bluffs on the south side and a bottom covered with timber on the north. About il we passed a handsome bottom, where a band of the Rees lived last winter. They had left a number of round huts covered with earth, some of their water * To prevent mistakes, owing to the very winding course of the river, Starboard side and Larboard side were made use of in the original journal, instead of north side and south side; during the remainder of the voyage up the Missou- ri ; but have been changed to north side and south side, as being better understood, and sufficiently representing the general course of the river. JOURNAL. * 5 craft made of buffaloe hides, and some garden truck, such as squashes. We proceeded on and passed a small creek on the south side; a handsome bottom on the north; and encamped on a sand beach on the north side. - Sunday 7th. We set forward early and had a clear day : passed a willow bottom on the south side, and a creek on the north. At the beginning of some tim- ber land we passed a small river on the south side, called Cer—wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is not so sandy as the Missouri, and the water is clear, with a deep channel. At the mouth of this river is a wintering camp of the Rickarees of 60 lodges. We saw two Sioux Indians on the north side, gave them some meat and proceeded on. We passed an island, on which Captain Clarke and one of the men went to hunt and killed a deer and a prarow. We encamped on the north side opposite the head of the island. Monday 8th. The morning was pleasant and we set out early : passed high land on the south side and bottom on the north. The river here is very shal- low and full of sand bars. We passed a run on the south side called slate run. Two of our hunters went out to some timber land on the north side to look for game. At 12 we came to a river on the south side, 120 yards wide, called the Marapa, where we halted for dinner. The hunters came up, but had killed no- thing. We passed a long range of hills on the north side; about two miles from the Marapa we passed a creek 25 yards wide; and about four miles further came to an island, where one band of the Rickarees live, and encamped at the upper end. Tuesday 9th. The day was stormy, and we re- mained here Preparing to hold a Council with the * Captain Lewis with some of the men went down to their lodges, and were used very kindly and and friendly. Two Frenchmen five with them, one to trade and the pther to interpret. them some presents. - - - - - - - - - - - 52 JOURNAL, - - -- - - - - - Wednesday 10th. This day I went with some of the men to the lodges, about 60 in number. The follow- ing is a description of the form of these lodges and the manner of building them. In a circle of a size suited to the dimensions of the intended lodge, they set up 16 forked posts five or six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another. Against these poles they lean other poles, slanting from the ground, and extending about four inches above the cross poles: these are to receive the ends of the upper poles, that support the roof. They next set up four large forks, fifteen feet high, and about ten feet apart, in the middle of the area; and poles or beams between these. The roof poles are then laid on extending from the lower poles across the beams which rest on the middle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney. The whole is then covered with willow branches, ex- cept the chimney and a hole below to pass through. - On the willow branches they lay grass and lastly clay. - At the hole below they build a pen about four feet wide and projecting ten feet from the hut ; and hang - - - a buffaloe skin, at the entrance of the hut for a door. This labour like every other kind is chiefly perform- ed by the squaws. They raise corn, beans and tobac- co. Their tobacco is different from any I had before seen : it answers for smoking, but not for chewing. On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat, with two squaws in a buffaloe skin stretched on a frame made of boughs, wove together like a crate or basket for that purpose. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a Council with the Indians, and gave Thursday 11th. A clear day. We waited for an answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they came, and brought some corn, beans and squashes, which they presented to us. The chief said he was glad to see us, and wished our commanding officers JOURNAL. 53 would speak a good word for them to the Mandans ; for they wanted to be at peace with them. These are the best looking Indians I have ever seen. At , o'clock P. M. we proceeded on our voyage; passed a creek on the south side 20 yards wide and a hand- some bottom covered with timber. Having made about four miles, we came to the second Village of the Rickarees, situated in a prairie on the south side. They had the American flag hoisted which Captain Lewis gave them yesterday. Their lodges are similar to those in the first village, and the same, or perhaps more, in number. They are the most cleanly Indians I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the most friendly and industrious. We anchored about 50 yards from shore, and sent a periogue over the river for wood. We all slepton board except the cooks, who went on shore to prepare provisions for the next day. Friday 12th. We had a pleasant morning, and re- mained here the forenoon to hear the chief of this village speak. Last night the Indians stole an axe from our cook, which of course in some degree di- minished our confidence, and Jessened the amicable character we had conceived of them. At 9 o'clock Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and myself went to the 2nd Village, and talked with its chief: then to the third Village, about half a mile beyond a small creek, and talked with the chief of that Village; and got some corn and beens from them. The third vil- lage is nearly of the same size of the second, and has in it a great number of handsome and smart women and children: the men are mostly out hunting. A- bout 12 we left the village and proceeded on our voy- age. One of the natives agreed to go with us as far as the Mandans. We encamped on the north side. After dark we heard some person hallooing on the opposite shore; and a periogue went over and brought an Indian and two squaws, who remained with us all night. E 2 54 JOURNAL. Saturday 13th. We proceeded on early and had a cloudy day ; passed Pond river on the north side, about 50 yards wide. One of the squaws went on with us. At 12 it rained some, and we halted to hold a court martial. At 2 continued our voyage, and did not get landing until after dark, the bank was so high and steep on one side and the water so shallow on the other. We encamped on the north side. Sunday 14th. We had a cloudy morning and some rain. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a bottom covered with timber on the south side and low ground covered with willows on the north ; pass- ed a creek and black bluffs on the south side and en- camped on the north. It rained slowly during the whole of the day. - Monday 15th. It rained all last night, and we set out early in a cloudy morning. At 7 we saw a hunt- ing party of the Rickarees, on their way down to the villages. They had 12 buffaloe-skin canoes or boats laden with meat and skins; besides some horses that were going down the bank by land. They gave us a part of their meat. The party consisted of men, wo- men and children. At 8 we went on again ; passed a fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north side, and naked hills on the south. About 10, we, saw another party of hunters, who asked us to eat and gave us some meat. One of these requested to speak with our young squaw, who for some time hid herself, but at last came out and spoke with him. She then went on shore and talked with him, and gave him a pair of ear-rings and drops for leave to come with us; and when the horn blew for all hands to come on board, she left them and came to the boat. We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped at dusk on the north ; where there was a party of In- dians about 30 in number. Our squaw remained with this party: They gave us some meat and ap- peared very glad to see us. journ AL. 55 - - - - Tuesday 16th. We early renewed our Voyage 3 and had a clear morning, passed a creek on the south side. The timber is more plenty than it has been for a considerable distance down the river. The sand bars, gave us a great deal of trouble, and much retarded our progress. In the evening a short time before We encamped, we met with another hunting party of the Rickarees. They had a flock of goats, or ante- opes, in the river, and killed upwards of forty of them. Captain Lewis, and one of our hunters went out and killed three of the same flock. We encamped on the south side. This day we saw more than an hundred goats. - Wednesday 17th. We renewed our voyage early, and had a clear morning. Last night eight of the In- dians came over to see us, brought us some meat and remained all night. Captain Lewis, gave them some presents this morning. At half past ten the wind blew so hard down the river that we were obliged to halt. A four we proceeded on with the assistance of the toy line, though the wind still continued against us, and having made about two miles, encamped on the south side. Several hunters went out this day and killed six deer: one of them did not join us at night. - Thursday 18th. We had a clear pleasant morning with some frost. We set sail early, and a hunter Went up each shore. Having proceeded two miles we met a couple of Frenchmen in a canoe, who had been up at the Mandan nation hunting, and met with a party of that nation, who robbed them of their alºis, ammunition and some fur which they had; and there. fore they had to return down the river; but, meet- ing us, went back in hopes of recovering their pro- perty. We passed a small river, on the south side called Cannon-bail river. Several hunters went out here. We passed a creek on the north side, called Fish creek, on which I killed a deer. At night we encam- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 56 º JOURNAL. ped on the south side, and all the hunters came in ; having killed six deer, four goats and a pelican. Friday 19th. Early this morning we renewed our voyage, having a clear day and a fair wind : pas- sed a creek on the south side. While out hunting yesterday I saw about three hundred goats, and some buffaloe. Deer are not so plenty here as lower down the river, but elk, buffaloe and goats, are very numerous. Four hunters went out to day and in the evening returned with 7 deer and three elk. We en- camped on the north side. Saturday 20th. We were early under way this morning, which was very pleasant. Two hunters went out and at breakfast time brought a deer to the boat ; when four more went out. We passed a creek on the north side, about 20 yards wide ; bot- tom covered with timber on both sides, and a small river on the south side opposite the lower point of an island. At the upper end we passed bluffs on the south side and bottom on the north. We, this day, saw a number of buffaloe, and goats on the sides of the hills. We encamped on the south side, and our hunters came in having killed 14 deer, a goat and a wolf; and one of them wounded a large white bear. Sunday 21st. We had a disagreeable night of sleet and hail. It showed during the forenoon, but we proceeded early on our voyage, passed bottom on the south side and hills on the north. We also passed a smail river on the south side called Chischeet river; and encamped on the south side. Two of the hunters, who had gone out in the morning came in, and had kiſſed a buffaloe and an otter. Monday 22nd. Some snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy and cold. We embarked early and went on. At 9 we saw 11 Indians of the Sioux nation coming down from the Mandans, who, not- withstanding the coldness of the weather, had not an article of clothing except their breech-clouts. At 1 JOURNAL. 57 encamped at night on the south side. Tuesday 23rd. Some snow again fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. At 8 it began to snow, and continued snowing to il, when it ceased. We passed the place where the Frenchmen had been robbed but no Indians could be seen. The hills here distance down it; and there are fine large bottoms on both sides covered with cotton wood. We en- - camped on the south side where we found a great quantity of rabbit berties. Three hunters were out to day, but killed nothing. - - - - - - - - - - - - o'clock the day became clear and pleasant and we are further from the river than they are for some - 53 º JOURNAL CHAP. W. - Wednesday 24th. We set out early in a cloudy morning. At 9 it began to rain and continued to rain for an hour. At 12 we came to a hunting party of the Mandan nation of Indians, and remained with them untill 2 and then continued our voyage. There were three lodges of these Indians on an island, which has been cut of the Grand Bend, a short distance below the Mandan village. We encamped on the north side. Five of the Indians came to us, and our Indian went over with them and returned in the morning. - Thursday 25th. The morning was pleasant, and we set sail early with a fair wind. Passed a beautiful bottom on the south side, and hills on the north. A great many of the natives, some on horseback and some on foot appeared on the hills on the north side, hallooing and singing. At 2, we stopped for dinner, and as we could not get our boat to shore on the north side, the water being shallow, our Indian was sent over to them. In the afternoon we passed a bottom covered with timber on the north side and hills on the south, and encamped on the north side. ere our indian returned accompanied by one of the Mandans. Friday 26th. We set out early and had a clear morning ; passed a large Willow bottom on the south and high land on the north side. The Mandan Indian left us early in the morning. At 10, we came to a hunting party of the Mandans, consisting of men, women and children. There was an Irishman with them, who had come from the North West Compa- pany of traders. We remained here an hour, and then proceeded. A number of the Indians kept JOURNAL. - 59 - along the shore opposite the boat all day, on the south side, on which side we encamped. Some of them remained with us to 12 at night and then returned to their village. Saturday 27th. The morning was clear and plea- sant and we set out early. At half past seven we arrived at the first village of the Mandans, and halted about two hours. This village contains 40 or 50 lodges built in the manner of those of the Rickarees. These Indians have better complexions than most other Indians, and some of the children have fair hair. We passed a bluff on the south side with a stratum of black resembling coal. There is a bottºm on the north side, where the second Mandan village is situ- ated. We went about a mile above it, and encamped in the same bottom, for the purpose of holding a council with the natives. This place is 1610 miles from the mouth of the river du Bois, where we first embarked to proceed on the expedition. There are about the same number of lodges, and people, in this village as in the first. These people do not bury their dead, but place the body on a scaffold, wrapped in a buffaloe robe, where it lies exposed.* - Sunday 28th. The day was clear, and we remain- ed here; but could not sit in council, the wind blew so violent. Monday 29th. We had again a clear day, and some of the principal men came from each village of the Mandans, from the Watasoons, Sioux, and one from the Grossventers; and all sat in council toge- ther. At 11 o’clock, when the Council met, a shot was fired from our bow piece, and the commanding officers took the chiefs by the hand. Captain Lewis, through an interpreter, delivered a speech; gave a suit of clothes to each of the chiefs and some articles * See MacKenzie’s account of the funeral rites of the ºnisteneaux, in his General History of the Fur Trade. 60 JOURNAL. for their villages. He also sent a suit to the chief of the Grossventers. At three o’clock another gun was fired at the breaking up of the council, and they all appeared satisfied. Captain Lewis gave an iron mill to the Mandan nation to grind their corn, with which they were highly pleased. - Tuesday 30th. We remained here to know the answer of the Indians. The day was clear and plea- sant. At 10, Captain Lewis with a party of our peo- ple, and an Indian or two, went about 6 miles up the river to view an island, in order to ascertain whether or not it would suit for winter quarters. At 5 P.M. they returned and were of opinion that it was not an eligible place. Wednesday 31st. A pleasant morning. We re- mained here also to day, the Indians having given no answer. At 12, Captain Clarke and some of the men went down to the village, and the chief gave 9 or 10 bushels of corn, and some buffaloe robes. Thursday 1st Wow. 1804. At 3 o'clock P. M. we returned down the river, to look for a place where we could fix our winter quarters. At dark we had descended 9 miles, and came to a bottom covered with cotton wood, where we encamped. - Friday 2nd. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the men, went up to the first village of the Mandans, who gave us some corn. Captain Clarke and the rest of our party, having dropt half a mile lower down the river, began to clear a place for a camp and fort. We pitched our tents and laid the foundation of one line of huts. Saturday 3rd. A clear day; we continued build- ing, and six men went down the river in a periogue to hunt. They will perhaps have to go 30 or 40 miles before they come to good hunting ground.— The following is the manner in which our huts and fort were built. The huts were in two rows, con- taining four rooms each, and joined at one end form- JOURNAL. 61 ing an angle. When raised about 7 feet high a floor of puncheons or split plank were laid, and govered with grass and clay : which made a warm loſt. The upper part projected a foot over and the roofs were made shed-fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not inclosed by the huts we intend to picket. In the angle formed by the two rows of huts we built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores. Ahout the 16th, the weather became very cold, and the ice began to run in the river. We sent a French- man down to enquire about the hunters and perio- gue. He and one of the hunters returned to the fort, having left the periogée and the rest about 30 miles below. The Frenchman was sent down again with a rope, and returned by land. On the 19th the hunters came up with the periogue loaded with the meat of about thirty deer, eleven elk and some buffaloe. In the cold weather we moved into the huts, though not finished. From the 20th to the 27th we had fine pleasant weather, and on the evening of the latter finished the roofs of our huts. These were made of puncheons split out of cotton wood and then hewed. The cotton wood resembles the lombardy poplar, and is a light soft wood. The largest trees are in thickness about eighteen inches diameter. On the night of the 27th the snow fell seveninches deep, and the 28th was stormy. Thursday 29th. This day was clear, but cold. We went to unrig the boat, and by an accident one of the sergeants had his shoulder dislocated. The 30th the weather continued the same. Early in the morn- ing of this day we saw an Indian on the opposite side of the river, and brought him over. He inform- ed us, that, a few days ago, eight of his nation were out hunting, and were attacked by a party of the Sioux tribe, who killed one and wounded two more ; and also carried off their horses. Captain Clarke cº JOURNAL. - and twenty-three men immediately set out with an intention of pursuing the murderers. They went up to the first village of the Mandans, but their way. riots did not seem disposed to turn out. They sug- gested the coldness of the weather ; that the Sioux Were 99 far gone to be overtaken; and put off the expedition to the spring of the year. Captain Clarke and his party returned the same evening to the ſort. We have been daily visited by the Indians since we came here. Our fort is called Fort Mandan, and by observation is in latitude 47. 21. 32, 8.* * The course of the Missouri, and distances of places on it appear to be very erroneously laid down upon the maps of Louisiana generally. On these the villages of the Mandans are placed in about 43 1-2 degress of north latitude and 112 1-2 of west longitude from Greenwich. This would place them about 500 miles nearer the mouth of the Colum- bia on the Pacific ocean, than the month of the Missouri. supposing the mouth of the Columbia to be about 124 de- grees west of London. But the nearest practicable route from the Mandan villages to the mouth of the Columbia, according to Captain Clarke's estimate, places them 335 miles nearer the mouth of the Missouri than that of the Columbia; and by the route actually taken by the expedi- tion to the mouth of the Columbia, they are 900 miles nearer the mouth of the Missouri. By Captain Lewis's observations these villages are in lati- tude 47. 21. 32, 8, and according to Mr. Mackenzie, Mr. Thompson astronomer to the North West company, in the year 1798, determined the northern bend of the Missouri to be in latitude 47. 32, north, and longitude 101 25 west. Now this is probably near the longitude of the Mandanvil- lages; for as it appears by the above statement, and by 0- ther observations of Captain Lewis nearer the mouth of the Missouri, that the course up the river is, for a considerable distance, nearly due west, and afterwards nearly due north, the difference of longitude and latitude, between the mouth of the Missouri and the point, wher; Mr. Thompson toºk his observations, may be added together, in estimating the distance : and this will give about 3 i-2 degrees of latitude ind 9 degrees of longitude making in the whole iſ 1-2 de- grees, which from the very meandring course of the Mis- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAL, 63. - º 1st December, 1804. The day was plea- sent, and we began to cut and carry pickets to coin- ºplete our ſort. One of the traders from the North West Company came to the fort, and related that the Indians had been troublesome in his way through. An Indian came down from the first Mandan village, and told us that a great number of the Chien or Dog nation had arrived near the village. - Sunday 2nd. The day was pleasant, and the snow melted fast. A party of the Chien Indians with some of the Mandans came to the fort: they appeared ci- vil and good natured. The 3rd 4th and 5th were moderate and we carri- ed on the work; but the 6th was so cold and stormy, we could do nothing. In the night the river froze - over, and in the morning was covered with solid ice an inch and an half thick. ºriday ſº. A clear cold morning. At 9 o'clock, the Big-white head chief of the first village of the Mandans, came to our garrison and told us that the buſ loe were in the prairie coming into the bottom. Captain Lewis and cleven more of us went out im- mediately, and saw the prairie covered with buffaloe - and the Indians on horseback killing them. They killed 30 or 40 and we killed eleven of them. They shoot them with bows and arrows, and have their horses so trained that they will advance very near and suddenly wheel and fly of in case the wºunded buffaloe attempt an attack. ºrday gº. In our hunt of yesterday, two men had their feet frost-bitten. Captain Clarke and ano- ther party went out though the cold was extreme, - souri, may be suficient to include 1610 miles of it, is uſe. ºnce from the mouth to the villages. In the map ºf North - - America included in the Atºs accompanying Pinkerton's Geography, published in 1804, this part of the Missou: º- Peº's pretty accurately laid down; but in the map of Loui- ºna in the same set it is equally erroneous with any other. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 54. JOURNAL. to hunt the buffaloe; and killed nine and a deer. One man got his hand frozen, another his foot; and some more got a little touched. Two men encamped out to take care of the meat. Sunday 9th. Captain Lewis and twelve more of us, went down to the bottom where the two men were taking care of the meat. We found some buffaloe had come into the woods, and we killed ten of them and a deer. Having dressed them we leaded four horses with meat and sent them with some of the party to the fort: Captain Lewis and the rest of us encamped out, and had tolerable lodging with the assistance of the hides of the buffaloe we had killed. Monday 10th. After breakfasting on marrow bones, Captain Lewis and four of us set out for the fort. Four hunters and another man to keep camp remained out. On our return we met one of our men, who said that a party had gone down with the horses for more meat. This day was very cold : an experi- ment was made with proof spirits, which in fifteen minutes froze into hard ice. In the evening two of our hunters came in with the horses, but had killed nothing. Five encamped out. Zºuseday 11th. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thinking the weather too cold to hunt, sent men down to the camp to bring up the remainder of the meat, and orders for the hunters to return. The hunters came in at dark. They had killed four buffaloe, and had dressed two of them. The cold was so severe they could do nothing with the other two. Wednesday 12th. We all remained at the garrison, the weather being intensely cold. We made three small sleds to haul in the meat with. Thursday 13th. The weather this day, began to be more moderate. Two hunters went out and killed two buffaloe. One came in, and he and some of the men went out and brought in the meat. Priday 14th. This day was more moderate, and JOURNAL. 65 | light snow showers fell. Captain Clarke and four- ºn men went out to hunt; and took the three sleds with them. In the evening five of them returned. Captain Clarke and the other 9 encamped out, and killed two deer. The snow fell about three inches deep. Saturday 15th. A cloudy day. Some of the natives paid us a visit, and brought presents of meat to the commanding officers. About 1 o'clock Captain Clarke and his party returned, but had killed nothing more. The buffaloe were gone from the river. Some slight showers of snow fell during the day. Sunday 16th. A clear cold day; I went up with some of the men to the 1st and 2nd village of the Mandans, and we were treated with much kindness. Three of the traders from the N. W. Company came to our fort, and brought a letter to our commanding officers. They remained with us all night. The object of the visits we received from the N.W. Com- pany, was to ascertain our motives for visiting that country, and to gain information with respect to the change of government.* * The North West Company was first formed in the winter of 1783–4, by the merchants of Canada, engaged in the fur trade, uniting their interests. The concern was divided into sixteen shares, without any capital being depo- sited; each party furnishing his proportion of the articles necessary for carrying on the trade. After a severe struggle and rival º with others engaged in the trade, in the year 1787 more partners were admitted, the shares ex- tended to twenty and the establishment, which was no more than an association of commercial men agreeing among themselves to carry on the fur trade, founded on a more solid basis. This and Hudson's Bay Company, have engrossed and carry on almost the whole of the fur trade in that extensive country, situated between Hudson's Bay, the Rocky mountains, and that high tract of country, west of lake Superior, which seperates º southern from the northern * 2 66 JOURNAL. Monday 17th. This was a cold clear day, and we all remained in the garrison. A sled was fitted up for one of the N. W. traders to return in. In the evening one of the natives came down and told us the buffaloe were again come to the river. Tuesday 18th. A very cold day. Six of us went out to look for the buffaloe; but could see nothing but some goats. At 9 we returned and found the men from the N. W. Company had set out on their return, notwithstanding the severity of the weather. Wednesday 19th. This was a more pleasant day and we began to set up the pickets. The 20th, and 21st, were quite warm and pleasant, and we advanced with our work. Saturday 22nd. The weather continued clear, plea- sant and warm. A great number of the natives came with corn, beans and mockasins to trade, for which they would take anything—old shirts, buttons, awls, knives and the like articles. Sunday 23rd. The weather continued pleasant, and we proceeded in our operations in setting up the pickets. Monday 24th. Some snow fell this morning; about 10 it cleared up, and the weather became pleasant. This evening we finished our fortification. Flour, dried apples, pepper and other articles were distribu- ted in the different messes to enable them to celebrate Christmas in a proper and social manner. Tuesday 25th. The morning was ushered in by two discharges of a swivel, and a round of small arms by the whole corps. Captain Clarke then presented waters: and have factories, forts, and trading establish- ments on the Winnipic, Assiniboin, Sturgeon, Saskatchi- wine, Elk, and most of the other great lakes and rivers, which communicate with or discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay, and the North sea. It is said some change has since taken place in the establishment of the North West Company. JOURNAL. 67 to each man a glass of brandy, and we hoisted the American flag in the garrison, and its first waving in fort Mandan was celebrated with another glass- The men then cleared out one of the rooms and commenced dancing. At 10 o’clock we had another glass of brandy, and at 1 a gun was fired as a signal for dinner. At half past 2 another gun was fired, as a notice to assemble at the dance, which was continu- edin a jovial manner till 8 at night; and without the presence of any females, except three squaws, wives to our interpreter, who took no other part than the amusement of looking on. None of the natives came to the garrison this day; the commanding officers having requested they should not, which was strictly attended to. During the remainder of the month we lived in peace and tranquility in the garrison, and were daily visited by the natives. - 38 JOURNAL. CHAP. VI. Tuesday 1st. Jan. 1805. Two shot were fired from the swivel, followed by a round of small arms, to welcome the New year. Captain Lewis then gave each a glass of good old whiskey ; and a short time after another was given by Captain Clarke. About 11 o’clock one of the interpreters and half of our people, went up, at the request of the natives, to the village, to begin the dance; and were followed some time after by Captain Clarke, and three more men. The day was warm and pleasant. Captain Lewis in the afternoon issued another glass of whis- key ; and at night Captain Clarke and part of the men returned from the village, the rest remained all night. Wednesday 2nd. Some snow fell this morning. The men, who remained at the village last night, re- turned. Captain Lewis, myself and some others went up to the second village and amused ourselves with dancing &c. the greater part of the day. In the evening we in general returned and a great number of the natives, men, women and children, came to see us, and appeared highly pleased. This day I discovered how the Indians keep their horses during the winter. In the day time they are permitted to run out and gather what they can ; and at night are brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and fed upon cotton wood branches: and in this way are kept in tolerable case. Thursday 3rd. From this to the 13th, the wea- ther was generally very cold; but our hunters were frequently out. One of them killed a beautiful white hare. These animals are said to be plenty. We killed a small buffaloe, 3 elk, 4 deer and two or - - - - JOURNAL. 69 three wolves. Three of the hunters going to a dis- tance down the river, killed nothing for two days, but a wolf, which they were obliged to eat; and said they relished it pretty well, but found it rather tough. A number of the natives being out hunting in a very cold day, one of them gave out on his return in the evening , and was left in the plain or prairie covered with a buffaloe robe. After some time he began to recover and removed to the woods, where he broke a number of branches to lie on, and to keep his body of the snow. In the morning he came to the fort. with his feet badly frozen, and the officers undertook his cure. Sunday 13th. A clear cold day. A number of the natives went down the river to hunt with our men. In the evening one of our interpreters and another Frenchman who had gone with him to the Assiniboins for fur returned. They had their faces so badly frost bitten that the skin came off; and their guide was so badly froze that they were obliged to leave him with the Assiniboins. This nation lives near the Rocky Mountains, and about 90 miles from ſort Mandan.* Monday 14th. Some snow fell this morning. Six more hunters went out to join those with the natives. In the evening one of the hunters that first went out, returned. They had killed a buffaloe, a wolf and two porcupine; and one of the men had got his feet so badly frozen that he was unable to come to the fort. During the 15th, and 16th, the weather was warm, * It is presumed, no part of the great chain of Rocky Mountains comes as near as 90 miles to fort Mandan; but it is not improbable that there may be a mountain, connected with them, which runs a considerable distance eastward alºng the great dividing ridge; and on some maps a moun- tain is laid down running east and west, south of the Assini- ºn river and lake, which would appear tº be not more than 90 or 100 miles from the Mandan villages. ºg JOURNAL. and the snow nyelted fast. Horses were sent for the lame man, and he was brought to the ſort his feet were not so had as we had expected. On the 17th, it became cold ; the wind blew hard from the north, and it began to freeze. ºriday 18th. Clear cold weather. Two of our hun- ters returned, and had killed four deer, four wolves and a prarow. Two men belonging to the N. W. company, who stay at the Grossventers village, came to the ſort. They say this animal which the French call aprarow, or brarow, is a species of the badger. Saturday 19th. Two men were sent with horses for meat, to the hunters’ Camp, which is thirty miles down the river. - Sunday 29%. I went up with one of the men to the villages. They treated us friendly and gaveus victuals. After we were done eating they presented a bowl ſui to a buffaloe head, saying “eat that.” Their super- stitious credulity is so great, that they believe by using the head well the living buffaloe will come and that they will get a supply of meat, Mºnday 21st. A clear cold day. Our hunters re- turned to the ſott, and brought with them three horse load of Venison and eſ: tº meat. - The weather on the 22nd and 23rd. was Wºrm, and - we commenced cutting the ice from about our craft, in order to get them out of the river. The snow ſell about three inches deep. Zºº, 24%. A cold day. Some of our hunters went out, but killed nothing. ºf 25th. All hands were employed in cutting away the ice, which we find a tedious business. Sºday 26th. A pleasant day and all hands em- ployed in cutting wood, to make charcoal. We have a blacksmith with us, and a small set of blacksmith tools. The blacksmith makes war-axes, and other axes to cut ºood ; which are exchanged with the natives for corn, which is of great service to us as we could not bring much with us. - - - - - - - - - ſovº AL. - on the ºth, and 28th. the weatºr became much more settled, wºrm and pleasant than it had been for sometime. ... - - - - Tºday 29th. We attemped another plan for get- ing our water craſ disengaged from the ice: which was to heat water in the boats, with hot stones ; but in this project we ſailed, as the stones we found would not stand the fire, but broke to pieces. Wednesday 30th. I went up the river and found another kind of stones, which broke in the same man- ner: so our batteaux and periogues remained fast in the ice. Thursday 31st. Some snow felt last night. Five hunters went out with two horses in the morning the wind blew and was cold, towards the middle of the day the weather became moderate, and the aſternoon was pleasant. ºriday 1st. Feb. 1805. A cold day. About 11 our hunters came home, but had killed nothing. One of the men at the fort went out a short distance, and killed a small deer. On the next day he went out and killed another deer. This and the third were cold. ſºonday 4th. A fine day. Captain Clarke and 18 more went down the river to hunt. We proceeded ºn 20 miles and could see no game. - Tuesday 5th. We proceeded on to some Indian camps and there we killed three deer. The next day e went on to more Indian camps and killed some deer. On the 7th, we encamped in a bottom on the south side of the Missouri, and the next day turned out to hunt. We killed 10 elk and 18 deer, and re- mained there all night. On the 9th, we built a pen to secure our meat from the wolves, which are very numerous here ; and in the evening went further down and encamped. The next morning we set out on our return towards the fort; and killed some elk ºnd deer in our way. On the 12th. we arrived at the º and found that one of our interpreter's wives - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 72 JOURNAL -- - had in our absence made an apprºos to our number. On the 13th, we had three horses shod to bring home our meat. - Thursday 14th. Four men set out early with the horses and sleds to bring home out meat; and had gone down about 25 miles when a party of Indians (they did not know of what nation) came upon them and robbed them of their horses one of which they gave back, and went off without doing the men any further injury. The same night the men came back and gave information of what had happened. At midnight Captain Lewis called for twenty volunteers who immediately turned out. Having made our ar- rangements, we set out early accompanied by some Indians ; and having marched thirty miles encam- ped in some Indian huts. Saturday 16th. We renewed our pursuit early, and had a cold morning. Having proceeded twelve miles we discovered fresh smoke arrising at some old camps, where we had hid some meat before when Captain Clarke was down; and therefore advanced with caution. Having arrived at the place we found the savages were gone ; had destroyed our meat, burnt the huts and fled into the plains. This mor- ning the Indians, who had come down with us and one of our men whose feet had been a little frozen, returned home. We hunted the 17th and 18th and got a good deal of meat which we brought to a place where some more had been secured: The 19th we loaded our sleds very heavy, and fifteen men drew one and the horse the other, which was a small one. On the next day we arrived at the fort much fatigued, ºursday 21st. Some rain fell to day, the first that has fallen since November. In the evening the weather became clear and pleasant. Ariday 22nd, Was a fine day and we again began to cut away the ice, and succeeded in getting out one of the periogues. Journ AL, 73 Saturday 23rd. We had fine pleasant weather, and all hands were engaged in cutting away the ice from the boat and the other periogue. At 4 o’clock in the afternoon we had the good fortune to get both free from the ice ; and in the three following days suc- ceeded in getting them all safe upon the bank. On the 27th we made preparations for making perio- gues to pursue our voyage in. . . Thursday 28th. Sixteen of us went up the river about six miles, where we found and cut down trees for four canoes. While we were absent an express arrived from the Rickarees village with news that the Sioux had declared war against us, and also against the Mandans and Grossventers. They had boasted of the robbery of the 14th at the Rickarees village in their way home, and that they intended to massacre the whole of us in the spring. By this express we therefore found out that it was the Sioux who had taken the horses from our men. Friday 1st. March, 1805. The same party en- camped out to make the canoes, and continued until six were made. On the 20th. and 21st, we carried them to the river about a mile and an half distant : There I remained with two men to finish them, and to take care of them, until the 26th, when some men came up from the fort, and we put the canoes into the water. As the river bad risen there was some water between the ice and the shore. We got three of them safe to the fort; but the ice breaking before the other three were got down, so filled the channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of the way by land. On the 27th we put one of the canoes into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry. We found they would not carry as much as was expected, and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along. The remainder of the month º, JOURNAL. and the information we received relative to several arms. Though we could furnish a sufficient number we were employed in preparing our craft for a re- newal of our voyage. Monday 1st Afril 1805. As our large boat was to return immediately to St. Louis, the whole of our craft was put into the water. A considerable quan- ty of rain fell this day; the first of any consequence that had fallen here for six months. The 2nd, was a fair day but windy. On the 3rd the weather was fine and pleasant. Some boxes were made in which it was intended to have packed skins of different ani- mals, which had been procured in the country, to he sent down in the batteaux. Thursday 4th. A fine clear day. We packed the boxes full of skins, buffaloe robes, and horns of the Mountain ram, of a great size for the president; and began to load the boat. - Friday 5th. This was a clear day and the wind blew hard and cold from the N. W. We took all our goods, stores and baggage out, divided and put them aboard our craft, that we might be ready to continue our voyage. If this brief Journal should happen to be preser- yed, and be ever thought worthy of appearing in print: some readers will perhaps expect, that, after our long friendly intercourse with these Indians, a- mong whom we have spent the winter; our ac- quaintance with those nations lower down the river other nations, we ought to be prepared now, when we are about to renew our voyage, to give some ac- count of the fºr sea of the Missouri; and entertain them with narratives of feats of love as well as of of entertaining stories and pleasant anecdotes, we do not think it prudent to swell our Journal with them; as our views are directed to more useful in- formation. Besides, as we are yet ignorant of the dangers, which may await us, and the difficulty of JOURNAL, ſº escape, should certain probable incidents occur, it may not be inconsistent with good policy to keep the Journal of as small and portable a size as ciſ- cumstances will make practicable. It may be obser- yed generally that chastity is not very highly esteem- ed by these people, and that the severe and loath- some effects of certain French ſhrincińles are not un- common among them. The fact is, that the women are generally considered an article of traffic and in- dulgencies are sold at a very moderate price. As a proof of this I will just mention, that for an old to- bacco box, one of our men was granted the honour of passing a night with the daughter of the head- chief of the Mandan nation. An old bawd with her punks, may also be found in some of the villages on the Missouri, as well as in the large cities of poº lished nations, - 76 JOURNAL. & H.A.P. P.I.I. - Saturday 6th. The day was clear and pleasant. This morning we heard that some of the Rickarees had come up to the Mandan villages. Our interpre- ter and some of the men were sent over to ascertain the truth of the report; and we were detained all day waiting their return. - Sunday 7th. The men returned and four of the Rickarees with them. The commanding officers held a conversation with these Indians; and they concluded that some of them would go down in the boat from their village to St. Louis. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon we left fort Mandans in good spirits. Thirty one men and a woman went up the river and thirteeen returned down it in the boat. We had two periogues and six canoes, and proceeded about four miles, and encamped opposite the first Mandan vil- lage, on the North side. Monday 8th. We set out early and had a clear day. The wind blew hard from the N. W. At 12 the word was passed from a canoe in the rear that it was sinking, when we halted in front and Captain Ciarke went back to see what was the matter. This forenoon we passed two villages of the Grossventers, or Big-belly's nation of Indians on the South side and a small river on the same side called Cutteau or Knife river. The canoe which had been in distress, came up, and had received little damage except wetting some powder on board. The woman that is with us is a squaw of the Snake nation of Indians, and wife to our interpreter. We expect she will be of service to us, when passing through that nation. In the afternoon we passed very high bluffs on the South side ; one of which had lately been a burning JOURNAE, £7 vulcano. The pumice stones lay verythick around it, and there was a strong smell of sulphur.” We came about fourteen miles and encamped on the North side. Tuesday 9th. We set out early, and had a fine day; about 1 o'clock we passed a party of Grossventers hunting: made about twenty-two miles and encam- ped on the North side. Wednesday 10th. We proceeded again early, and had rapid water and a great many sand-bars; but a fine pleasant day. Having proceeded about nineteen miles we encamped on the North side. Thursday 11th. We got under way early, had a fine clear pleasant day, and went on very well. We saw some Indians on the South side, but did not speak with them. We came about twenty-one miles and encamped on the North side. Friday 12th. Another fine day. We set out early as usual. About 8 we came to the mouth of the Little Missouri, a handsome small river that comes in on the South side where we halted and took breakfast. The river is very properly called the Little Missouri, for it exactly resembles the Missouri in colour, cur- rent and taste.f. It was thought adviseable to remain here the remainder of the day, and air our loading. Some hunters went out and killed a deer, and Cap- * “Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused a strong sulphu- reous stench.” Mackenzie’s Voyage. These appearances were near the eastern side of the Rocky mountains where they were crossed by Mr. Mac. º party; and in about lat. 56, North, and long. 120. est. † The maps of Louisiana place the Mandan villages West of the little Missouri; whereas it is ascertained by this expedition to be 92 miles higher up the Missouri than the Mandans, - G 2 - - - - º, 78 3OURNAL. - - - - - - - tain Clarke killed a hare, which was now changing - - - its colour from white to grey. . . Saturday 13th. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind; but our small canoes could not bear the sail. Some of the party caught some beaver, and some Frenchmen who were out trapping caught 7 of them. We passed a large creek on the South side, called Onion creek. We came 23 miles and encamped on the North side, where we found a wild goose nest on a tree about 60 feet high. One of the men climbed the tree and found one egg in the nest, Sunday 14th. We started early as usual, and had a fine morning. As we were setting out a black dog came to us, and went along, supposed to have belong- ed to a band of the Assiniboins, who had been en- camped near this place a few days ago. We passed a hill resembling a large haystack, all but about 10 feet of the top which was as white as chalk. The hills in general are much higher here than lower down the river; but the bottoms much the same. In theaſternoon we passed a creek, called after our inter- preter, Sharbons creek. He had been, before, this far up the Missouri, and no white man any further, that we could discover. We made 16 miles and encamp- ed in a handsome bottom on the North side. Monday 15th. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind; set forward early as usual, and went on very well. Passed a large creek on the North side, called Goat-pen creek. We saw a number of buffaloe and two bears on the bank of the river. After going 23 miles we encamped on the South side. Tuesday 16th. We had a clear pleasant day; and in the early part of it, a fair gentle wind. Captain Clarke went out and killed a Cabre or Antelope, the same kind of an animal, which we before called a goat. The wind became flawy and the sailing bad. After making 18 miles we encamped on the South side in a point of woods called the Grand point. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAL. side, and found that some rain had fallen during the blew so hard down the river, we were obliged to lie to good whetstones—or hones could be made- I also saw where a hill had been on fire, and pumice Iſºdnesday 17th. We proceeded on early as usual with a fair wind. The day was fine and we made good way. Passed a beautiful plain and two large creeks on the North side, and another creek on the South. We saw a great many but aloe and elk on - the banks. At 1 o'clock we halted for dinner, when two men went out and in a few minutes killed 2 buf- faloe. We made 26 miles and encamped on the South day, where we encamped, though there was none where we had been. Thursday 18th. The men caught some beaver, and killed a wild goose. The morning was fine and we went on very well until 1 o'clock, when the wind for 3 hours, after which we continued our voyage. This day Captain Clarke went by land and met us in the afternoon on the bank with an elk and a deer. We came about 14 miles and encamped in a good harbour on the North side, on account of the wind, which blew very hard all night accompanied with some drops of rain. Friday 19th. A cloudy morning, with high wind. We did not set out until the next day. While we lay here, I went out to the hills, which I found very high, much washed by the rain, and without grass. I saw a part of a log quite petrified, and of which stone around it. There is a great quantity of hysop. in the vallies. We killed an elk and some wild gºese, and caught some beaver. Saturday 2014. We set out again and had a cold disagreeable morning ; rapid water and a strong wind. Some of the canoes took in a good deal of water ; and we made but 6 miles, when we were obliged again to lie too, on account of the wind, and to dry our loading. While we lay here we killed - 39 - JOURNAE,. three elk and got a number of Geese eggs out of their nests, which are generally built on trees. Sunday 21st. We proceeded on early ; and had a fine clear morning, but cold : there was a sharp frost. We saw a great number of elk, buffaloe and deer on both sides of the river. About 12 the wind again rose and was disagreeable, but we continued our voy- age. Two of our hunters went out this afternoon and caught three young buffaloe calves. We passed a small river called White Clay river on the North side and having gone 15 miles encamped on the South side. - - Monday 22nd Before day light we continued our voyage; passed a beautiful bottom on the North side, covered with game of different kinds. The wind was unfavourable to day, and the river here is very crooked. We came about 14 miles, then encamped on the South side and caught some beaver. Tuesday 23rd. We set out early and had a fine day; but the wind was ahead and we were obliged to lie too about three hours. We went 15 miles and en- camped on the North side. Captain Clarke killed 3 piacktailed deer and a buffaloe calf. Wednesday 24th. This was a clear day, but the wind blew so hard down the river we could not pro- ceed. While we lay here some of the men went to see some water at a distance which appeared like a river or small lake. In the afternoon they returned, and had found it only the water of the Missouri, which had run up a bottom. One of the men caught six young wolves and brought them in, and the other men killed some elk and deer. Thursday 25th. We set out as usual and had a fine day; but about 11 were obliged to halt again the wind was so strong ahead. Captain Lewis and four men set off by land from this place to go to the river Jaune, or Yellow Stone river, which it is believed is not very distant, I remarked, as a singular circum- JOURNAL. 81 stance, that there is no dew in this Country, and very little rain. Can it be owing to the want of timber 2 At 5 o'clock in the afternoon, we renewed our voy- age; and having this day advanced about 13 miles, encamped on the South side. Friday 26th. A fine day. We set out early, and having proceeded 10 miles came at 12 o'clock to the mouth of the Jaune and halted : Captain Lewis and his party had not arrived. I went up the point about 9 miles, where there are the most beautiful rich plains, I ever beheld. I saw a large pond or lake- Captain Clarke while I was absent measured both rivers ; and found the breadth of the Missouri to be 337 yards of water, and 190 of a sand beach; total 527 yards. That of the Yellow Stone river 297 yards of water and 561 of sand; total 858 yards. The mouth of this river is 1883 miles from the mouth of the Missouri; 278 from Fort Mandan and 186 from the mouth of Little Missouri. The river Jaune is shallow, and Missouri deep and rapid. In the evening Captain Lewis with his party joined us; and had brought with them a buffaloe calf, which followed them 7 or 8 miles. We killed a number of calves, and found they made very good weal. There are a great many signs of beaver in this part of the country. We encamped on the point all night. - - Saturday 27th. About 9 o'clock in the ſorenoon we renewed our voyage. The day was fine, but on ac- count of a strong wind we were obliged at 1 to halt, till 4, when we again went on ; and having this day made 8 miles, encamped on the North side. Sunday 28th. We set out early, had a fine day and went on very well. About 9 we halted for breakfast under very high bluffs on the North side. About 15 miles above the Yellow Stone river, the banks on the Missouri are not so high as below it, and the sand bars are more in the middle of the river. We came - 32 JOURNAL. - - - - - - - - 24 miles and encamped on the North side in a hand- some bottom. The bottoms here are not so large, and have less timber on them than those below the Jaune. Monday 29th. We again set out early, had a clear morning and went on at a good rate. This forenoon we passed some of the highest bluffs I had ever seen ; and on the top of the highest we saw some Mountain sheep, which the natives say are common about the Rocky mountains. These were the first we had seen, and we attemped to kill some of them but did not succeed. Captain Lewis, and one of the men, travel- led some distance by land and killed a white bear— The natives call them white, but they are more of a brown grey. They are longer than the common black bear, and have much larger feet and talong. We went 25 miles and encamped on the bank of a small river, which comes in on the North side about 70 yards wide. - Tuesday goth. We embarked at sunrise; had a fine morning and went on very well. We passed through a handsome Country, with a rich soil, and the prairies rising beautifully on both sides of the river. We went 24 miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Lewis killed a large elk here. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAL. 83 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - CHAP. VIII. - - - - - - - Wednesday 1st. May, 1805. We set out early in a cool morning ; and went on till 12 o'clock, when the wind rose so high, that our small canoes could not stand the waves. We made only 10 miles this day. Thursday 2nd. At day break it began to snow; and the wind continued so high, we could not proceed until the afternoon. While we lay here our hunters went out and killed some buffaloe and deer. They found some red cloth at an old Indian camp, which we suppose had been offered and left as a sacrifice; the Indians having some knowledge of a supreme be- ing and this their mode of worship. The snow did not fall more than an inch deep. At four we set out, went six miles, and encamped on the North side in a beautiful bottom. morning, though very cold and disagreeable, and a severe frost. The snow and green grass on the prai- ries exhibited an appearance somewhat uncommon. - - The cotton wood leaves are as large as dollars, not- - - 5 withstanding the snow and such hard frost. We passed a small river on the north side called the 2000 mile river. About a mile above we passed a large creek on the South side, called Porcupine creek– We came this day about 20 miles and encamped on the North side. a --- - - - Saturday ºf This day was one pleasant: in - - - - - the forenoon we passed a cree on the South side, about 40 yards wide. The river has been more straight for two or three days than it was before ; the bottoms larger and more timber on them. We went about eighteen miles and encamped on the North side. One of the men became sick this mor- ning and has remained so all day. Friday 3rd. We proceeded on our voyage this *4 - JOURNAL. - unday 5th. The morning was fine with some white frost. During this day the country appeared beautiful on both sides of the river. We went six- teen miles and encamped on the North side. The sick man has become better. Here we killed a very largel rown bear, which measured three feet five inches round the head ; three feet eleven inches round the neck; round the breast five feet lo; inches ; the length eight feet 73 inches; round the middle of the fore leg 23 inches; and his talons four inches and three eights of an inch. Mºnday 6th. We set sail with a fair wind and pleasant weather. At 12 a few drops of rain fell, but it soon cleared up. We passed a river on the South side about 200 yards wide ; but the water of this river sinks in the sand on the side of the Missouri. We went twenty-six miles and encamped on the South side. Tuesday 7th. We again set out early and went on very well till, 12 when it began to blow hard, and being all under sail one of our canoes turned over. Fortunately the accident happened near the shore; and after haſting three hours we were able to go on again. Having this day made sixteen miles we en- camped on the South side. Wednesday 8th. We were again very early under way in a cloudy morning ; about 12 some rain fell: at 2 we passed a handsome river on the North side about 200 yards wide called Milk river. There is a good deal of water in this river which is clear, and its banks beautiful. Out distance this day was about twenty-seven miles, and we encamped in a beautiful bottom on the South side. - Thursday 9th. We proceeded on early and had a fine day. The country on both sides begins to be more broken, and the river more crooked. At 1, we passed a creek on the South side, and having made about 25 miles we encamped at the mouth of a creek JOURNA. 3 * on the North side, called by the name of Warner's creek. Ariday 10th. We set out early in a fair morning; but having gone five miles were obliged to halt and lye by during the day, on account of hard wind. Some small showers of rain occasionally fell. Here we killed some deer and buffaloe and took some beaver. Saturday 11th. The morning was fine, we started at the usual hour : at 1 passed a small creek on the South side. This day we saw several great gangs of buffaloe, and other game in plenty. One of the men killed another large brown bear, about the size of the one lately killed. We came seventeen miles and encamped on the South side. Sunday 12th. We early renewed our voyage and had a pleasant morning ; passed some hills on the North side, covered with pine and cedar, the first timber of any kind we have seen on the hills for a long time. At 1 we halted for dinner and a violent storm of wind then arose, which continued until night when some rain fell. Our distance this day only 13.3 miles. Monday 13th The weather continued stormy, and some few drops of rain fell. At 1 P. M. we embarked ; passed three creeks, one on the North side and two on the South ; went seven miles and encamped in a large bottom. - - Tuesday 14th. There was some white frost in the morning, we proceeded on early ; passed black hills close to the river on the South side and some covered with pine timber at a distance. About 12 the day became warm. Banks of snow were seen lying on the hills on the North side. This forenoon we passed a large creek on the North side and a small river on the South. About 4 in the afternoon we passed another small river on the South side near the mouth of which some of the men discovered a 86 JOURNAL. large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill it. They fired at it; but having only wounded it, it made battle and was near seizing some of them, but they all fortunately escaped, and at length suc- ceeded in dispatching it. These bears are very bold and ferocious ; and very large and powerful. The natives say they have killed a number of their brave men. The periogues having gone ahead, while the people belonging to the canoes were dressing the bear, a sudden gust of wind arose, which overset one of the periogues before the sail could be got down. The men who had been on board, turned it again and got it to shore, full of water. It was im- mediately unloaded and the cargo opened, when we found a great part of the medicine, and other articles spoiled Here we encamped, having come to day 18 # miles. Wednesday 15th. We remained here all day to dry our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy and unfavourable for the purpose, and some rain fell. Thursday 16th. This was a fine day, and by 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had all our articles dry and on board again. At that time we proceeded on our voyage; passed high barren hills on both sides of the river, with only a few pine trees on them. We advanced seven miles and encamped in a hand- some bottom on the South side where there are a number of old Indian huts. Friday 17th. The morning was fine and we em- barked early. The hills here come very close to the river on both sides, and have very little timber on them. They are very high and much washed. There are some of them, which at a distance resem- ble ancient steeples. We passed two rivers one on each side. During the whole of this day’s voyage the Missouri was very handsome, and about 300 yards wide. We made 20+ miles and encamped on the South side. - JOURNAL. 37 Saturday 18th. A cloudy morning. We proceeded as usual. The country much the same as yesterday; until about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became more extensive on both sides of the river. There is still a small quantity of pine timber on the hills. We had some showers of rain in the forenoon; hail in the afternoon; and a fine clear evening. We went nineteen miles and encamped on the South side op- posite an island. - - Sunday 19th. The morning was foggy and there was some dew. The river is handsome and the country mountainous. We made 20% miles and en- camped on the North side in a small bottom. Monday 20th. We set sail early and had a fine morning. Passed a creek on the south side and about 11 came to the mouth of the Muscle-shell river, a handsome river that comes in on the South side. The water of the Missouri is becoming more clear. We here spent the remainder of the day, having come seven miles. Captain Lewis had an observation here, which gave 47°. 00. 24. North latitude : and Cap- tain Clarke measured the rivers. The Missouri here is 222 yards wide, and the Muscle-shell 110 yards. The water of the latter is of a pale colour, and the current is not rapid; its mouth is 660 miles above Fort Mandans. Tuesday 21st. We proceeded on early and had a fine morning ; towards the middle of the day the wind blew hard ; but we went on very well for 20 miles, and encamped on a sand-beach on the North side. - Wednesday 22nd. A cloudy morning. The wind blew so hard this morning, we did not get under way until 9 o'clock. The forenoon was cold and disa- greeable, but the afternoon became more pleasant. We killed a brown bear and some other game on ºn Way. Having gone 16 miles we encamped on the North side. - ge JOURNAL. Thursday 23rd. The morning was clear with * white frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We passed two creeks, one on each side of the river : and two islands which are not common. There are very few between these and fort Mandans, not more than six or eight. In the evening we killed a large bear in the river; but he sunk and we did not get him.” We went 28 miles and encamped. Friday 24th. There was again some white frost this morning. We embarked early ; passed a large creek on the North side and a beautiful island close on the southern shore. At the head of the island, came in another creek on the South side. The bot- tom of the river, and sand-bars have become much more gravelly than we found them at any place lower down. The water is high, rapid and more clear. At dinner time a party was sent out to bring the meat of some animals that had been killed at a dis- tance. Here we left two canoes to wait for them and proceeded on. We passed a creek on the North side, and having made 244 miles encamped on the South side. The hills are near, on both sides of the river, and very high. Saturday 25th. We waited here in the morning until the canoes came up ; and about 7 proceeded on our voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We passed two creeks opposite to each other on the op- posite sides of the river. About 12 we passed a bot- tom on the North side with one solitary tree on it, upon which there was an eagle’s nest. The bot- toms here are very small. As we went on this aſ- ternoon some of the party killed three of what the French and natives call mountain sheep ; but they wery little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns and feet. They are of a dun colour except on the * It is said that bears, beavers, otters and such animals will sink unless shot dead. - JOURNAL, º belly and round the rump, where they are white. The horns of the male are very large; those of the female small. They have a fine soft hair. Captain Clarke calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer. The hills here are very high and steep. One of our men in an attempt to climb one had his shoulder dislocated ; it was however replaced without much difficulty. These hills are very much washed in general: they appear like great heaps of clay, washing away with every shower; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any of them. This evening we passed an island all prairie except a few trees on the upper end of it. We went 18 miles and encamped on the South side. Sunday 26th. We set out early in a fine morning, and passed through a desert country; in which there is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men kil- led a male, which had horns two feet long and four inches diameter at the root.” We passed two creeks * “The Ibex resembles the goatin the shape of itsbody; but differs in the horns which are much larger. They are bent backwards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted that there is a knot added every year. There are some of these found if we may believe Bellonius, at least two yards long. The ibex has a large black beard, is of a brown colour, with a thick woven coat of hair. There is a streak of black runs along the top of the back; and the belly and back of the thighs are of a fawn colour. It is a native of the Alps, the Pyrenees, and mountains of Greece; extremely swift and capable of running with ease along the edges of preci- pices, where even the Wolf or the Fox, though instigated by hunger, dares not pursue it.” - - Goldsmith. such is the description given of the Ibex ; but which to us does not appear to suit the animal found about the *ocky mountains called the mountain Ram. From whº H 2. 90 JOURNAL. this forenoon on the North side; and in the evening: one of the men killed a buffaloe. At dark we came to large rapids, where we had to unite the crews of two or three canoes, to force them through. It was sometime after night before we could encamp. We at length, after having gone twenty-one miles en- camped on the South side in a small grove of timber, the first we had seen during the day. we have before heard of that animal, and from Mr. Gass’s verbal description, we are led to believe, that it much more nearly resembles the wild sheep, called the Muñon or Musmon, to be found in the uncultivated parts of Greece, Sardinia, Corsica and in the desart of Tartary; and which is thought to be the primitive race and the real sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be ex- actly the same ; of which we find the following description. “The Mufflon, or Musmon, though covered with hair, bears a stronger similitude to the Ram than to any other animal; like the Ramit has the eyes placed near the horns; and its ears are shorter than those of the goat: it also re- sembles the Ram in its horns, and in all the particular con- tours of its form. The horns also are alike ; they are of a white or yellow colour; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish colour tinctured with yellow ; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general colour of the hair over the body is of a brown, approaching to that of the red deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are of a white tinctured with yellow. The form upon the whole seems more made for agility and strength than that of the com- mon sheep; and the Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, and maintain itself either by force or swift- ness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank it among the deer kind, than the sheep. But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that entirely distin- guishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns. In some these are seen to grow to a surpri- zing size; many of them measuring, in their convolu- tiºns, above two ells long” - &oldº- Journ AI, sº Monday 27th. We have now got into a country which presents little to our view, but scenes of bar- renness and desolation; and see no encouraging pros- pects that it will terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting she country we have passed. From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quantity of timber; in many places very rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful. From the confluence of the river Platte with the fissouri to the Sterile desert we lately entered a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in general be called good second rate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountainous, rocky or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much expo- sed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of coun- try and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends it is under- stood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cotton wood and willows are frequent in the bottoms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and consists of large prairies or plains the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colours. The views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening wavy ridges, until by their dis. tance they fade from the sight; large rivers and *cºms in their rapid course, winding in various - - - - - - - - - - - - - 32 JOURNAL. meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow along the waters intersecting the landscapes in differen: directions, dividing them into various forms, at length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the buffaloe, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent objects, which compose the extensive prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the beholder. - - The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large and during high water mostly overflowed. There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windings but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the buffa- loe and other animals; some of the buffaloe roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning until 8 o’clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult water, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; no- thing but barren mountains on both sides of the ri- ver, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the purpose, and made out to get enough of drift wood to cook with. Tuesday 28th. We set sail early, had a fine morn- ing, and proceeded on through this desert country un- till about 4 o’clock P. M. when we came to a more pleasant part. We made twenty-one miles and en- samped on the North side. Wednesday 29th. We proceeded on early and had a fine morning ; passed two rivers, one on each side- At 12 it became cloudy and began to rain. We journai. as went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome grove of timber on the South side. It rained a little all the afternoon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. Last night about 12 o'clock a buffaloe swiming the river happened to land at ºne of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two guns, but not so as to render them useless. He then went straight on through the men where they were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came along to day we passed a place where the Indians had driven above an hundred head of buffaloe down a pre- sipice and killed them. Thursday 30th. The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in close on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are as black as coal and some white as chalk. We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained a little all day; we went on slow and encamped ear- ly on the North side, in a small bottom with some cotton wood, having proceeded on eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills. Friday 31st. We embarked early in a cloudy morning ; passed through a mountainous country, but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buſ- faloe in our way. About 11 o’clockit began to rain slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it cleared up. We passed some very curious cliffs and rocky peaks, in a long range. Some of them 200 feet high and not more than eight feet thick. They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so numerous that they appear like the ruins of an an- tient city. We went 17 miles and encamped at the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side, Saturday 1st June, 1805. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more handsome country, than for some days past. It appears more level and there are - - - 94 journal. . ome good bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large ; also a number of beautiful small islands covered with cotton wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yesterday our men killed three of them, that had remarkable large horns; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on the North side about 11 o’clock. The water is not so rapid to day as usual, but continues high. In the afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide, and several small islands. We went 24 miles and encamped on a small island. Sunday 2nd. We embarked early in a fine morn- - ing. The hills come close on the river, but are not so high nor so broken, as we found them a short dis- tance lower down. This forenoon we passed two creeks, one on each side, and several islands cover- ed with cotton wood; but there is not a stick of tim- ber to be seen any where upon the hills. Some of the hunters killed a brown bear in a small bottom on the south side, and having come 18 miles we encam- ped just above the bottom on the same side, at the mouth of a large river. Monday 3rd. We crossed over to the point be- tween the two rivers and encamped there. The com- manding officers could not determine which of these rivers or branches, it was proper to take ; and there- fore concluded to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the South branch, and a serjeant and two more up the North. The parties went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch rapid with a great many islands and the general course South West. The other party reported the North branch as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North branch is 186 yards wide and the South 372 yards. The water of the South branch is clear, and that of the North muddy. About a mile and an half up the point from the confluence, a handsome small river - journal. falls into the North branch, called Rose river. Its water is muddy, and the current rapid. Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude at the point, which gave 479. 24. 12. North latitude. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke were not yet satisfied with res- pect to the proper river to ascend. Tuesday 4th Captain Lewis with six men went up the North branch, to see if they could find any certain marks to determine whether that was the Missouri or not; and Captain Clarke myself and four others went up the South branch, for the same pur- pose with regard to that branch. About eight miles above the confluence, the South branch and the small river which falls into the North branch, are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful - spring where we refreshed ourselves with a good drink of grog; and proceeded on through the high plains. Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which are in abundance, and some short grass. We went on about thirty miles and found the river still exten- ding in a South West direction. We saw a moun- tain to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared to run East and West, and some spots on it resem- bling snow. In the evening we went towards the river to encamp, where one of the men having got down to a small point of woods on the bank, before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he-bear, and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards from him, but the bank there was so steep we could not get down to his assistance ; we, however, fired at the animal from the place where we stood and he went off without injuring the man. Having got down we all encamped in an old Indian lodge for the night. - Wednesday 5 h. Some light showers of rain ſell in the night, and the morning was cloudy. When preparing to set out we discovered three bears ce- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - so journal. ming up the river towards us; we therefore halted a while and killed the whole of them. About 7 we set out along the plains again, and discovered the mountain South of us covered with snow, that had fallen last night. When we had gone about 11 miles we saw a large mountain to the West of us also co- wered with snow. This mountain appeared to run from North to South, and to be very high. The bear- ing of the river is still South West, Captain Clarke thought this a good course for us to proceed on our voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again. We went about 15 miles and struck the small river about 20 miles from its mouth. Here we killed some elk and deer and encamped all night. There is a great deal of timber in the bottoms of this little ri- ver, and plenty of different kinds of game. In these bottoms I saw the stalks of a plant resembling flax in every particular. Thursday 6th. We proceeded down the small river and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we went on the plains again, which we kept on till we came to the point in the evening. Captain Lewis and his party had not returned. Some light rain fell this afternoon. - - Friday 7th. It rained all day: Captain Lewis and party did not return. Saturday 8%. A fine cool morning. About 10 o'clock A. M. the water of the South river, or branch, became almost of the colour of claret, and remained so all day. The water of the other branch has the appearance of milk when contrasted with the water of this branch in its present state. About 4 in the afternoon Captain Lewis and his party came to camp. They had been up the North branch about 60 miles, and ſound it navigable that distance; not so full of islands as the other branch and a greater quantity of timber near it and plenty of game, which is not the £ºse on the South branch. Its bearing something - - - - - - - - - - - north of west a considerable distance, and then tº the south of west. The party while out killed 18 deer and some elk. From the appearance of the river where they left it to return, they supposed it might be navigable a considerable distance further. They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards the north : it was not covered with snow like those we had seen. Both these rivers abound in fish; and we caught some of different kinds, but not large. About five o’clock in the afternoon the weather be- came cloudy and cold, and it began to rain. The officers concluded that the south branch was the most proper to ascend, which they think is the Missouri. º: other they called Maria's river. At dark the rain ceased. Sunday 9th. A fine morning. It was thought adviseable to leave the large periogue here and part of the stores and baggage, and some of the men were engaged in digging a case to bury them in. The wa- ter of the Missouri changed this morning to its for- mer colour. The day was fine, but the wind blew hard from the northwest. One of the men killed an excellent fat buffaloe. There is a quantity of goose- berry and choak-cherry bushes on the point, and alsº some rabbit berries. Monday 10th. We hauled our large periogue oa an island in the mouth of Maria's river, and covered it over with brush. We then began to examine and assort our effects to see what would be least wanted and most proper to leave ; but about two it began te rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the evening we loaded the rest of the craft, and left the remainder of our stores and baggage to be buried, consisting of corn, pork, flour, some powder and lead, and other articles amounting to about one thousand pounds weight. - - I * 8 JOURNAL. Tuesday lith. A fine day. Captain Lewis and four men set out this morning to go to the moun- tains, which we had discovered towards the west. The rest of the party were engaged is burying the baggage and goods which had been left, and prepar- ing to start the following morning. jou RNAſ. 93. - CHAP. IX. Wednesday 12th. The morning was fine; we set out from the mouth of Maria's river, and went on very well. In the forenoon we passed 12 islands. At 1 o’clock the weather became cloudy and threat- ened rain; at 2 there was a light shower, and the day became clear. We passed three islands this af. ternoon and some handsome bluffs on both sides of the river. We went 18 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the north side, where we killed 2 elk and some deer. Thursday 13th. We set out early in a fine morn- ing. Some dew fell last night. We passed a large treek on the south side, called Snow creek. The water of the river is very clear and the current very rapid. We passed a number of islands covered with timber; but there is none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went 14 miles and encamped og the south side. Friday 14th. We embarked early, and the morn- ing was pleasant. About 7 o'clock A. M. we passed a place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears, and had left a note directing us where to find them. About 2 one of Captain Lewis's men met us, and informed us that the falls were about 20 miles above; and that Captain Lewis and the other three men, were gone on to examine what the distance was above the falls, before we could take the water again. We went 10 miles and encamped on a small bottom on the south side. Saturday 15th. We proceeded on as usual, but had the most rapid water, I ever saw any craft taken through. At noon we stopped at the mouth of a º *O C RNAſ, creek on the south side called Strawberry creek, handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point above, there is a great quantity of strawberry, goose- berry and choak-cherry bushes; and there appears to be a good deal of small cotton-wood on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon we passed red bluffs on both sides of the river, and at night came to a large rapid which we did not venture to pass so late ; and therefore encamped below on the north side, after going 12 miles. Sunday 16th. In the morning all hands were en- gaged in taking the canoes over the rapid about a mile in length, which having accomplished they re- turned and took up the periogue, where we halted to examine another great rapid close ahead. One man had been sent on last night to Captain Lewis, to find out what discoveries he had made. We remain- ed here some time, and a few of the men went out to hunt. About noon Captain Lewis and the party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Cap- tain Lewis had been up the falls 15 miles above the first shoot or pitch, and found the falls continue all that distance, in which there were 5 different shoots 40 or 50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid wa- ter between them. As we found the south side the best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and un- loaded our craft. We then had to take the empty sanoes to the side we had left, and to tow them up. ºy a line about a mile, in order to get them up tº the mouth of a small river on the south side, as a more convenient place to take them up the bank. This business was attended with great difficulty as well as danger, but we succeeded in getting them all over safe. Monday 17th. Part of the men were employed in taking the canoes up the small river about a mile and aa half; and some engaged in making small wag- gons to haul she canoes and loading above the falls. JOURNAL. 101. Captain Clarke and 4 men went to view and survey our road to the place where we were to embark above, the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beautiful sulphur spring rises out of the banks of as strong sulphur water as I have ever seen, Qn the bottoms of this small river and also on the Missouri is a great quantity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat, which we had with us. In the evening the men got the canoes to a proper place to take them upon land. Tuesday 18th. The periogue was hauled out of the water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a place for depositing more of our baggage. About 12 the two hunters came in, and could find no elk, but killed 10 deer. In the evening we compleated our waggons, which were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary quality; but it is expected they will answer the purpose. Wednesday 19th. A fine day, but the wind very high. Three hunters set out for Medicine river, a large river above the falls, which comes in on the north side, to hunt for elk. We finished the burying place, so that we will be ready to start as soon as Capt. Clarke returns. All our people are making mockasons to go through the prairie. Thursday 20th. A cloudy morning : four hunters went out to kill some fat buffaloe. About 4 o’clock one of them came in for men to carry the meat to camp; as they had 14 down ready to butcher. We went out about a mile and an half, and brought in a load, leaving three men to dress the rest. Captain Clarke and his party returned, having found a to- erable good road except where some draughts cross- edit. They had left their blankets and provision ºthe place where they expect we will again ens- ºlº I 2 102- JOURNAL. Friday 21st. This morning was also fine, but there was a high wind. The remainder of the meat was brought in, and one of the men killed 2 deer. Saturday 22nd. All hands, except two and the in- terpreter and his wife, set out through the prairie with one canoe on a waggon loaded heavy with bag- gage. We went on slowly as our axletrees were weak 3, and about 12 o'clock one of them broke; when we had to halt and put in a new one. This accident happened at a draught where there was some willow, and we put in an axletree of that ; which I believe is the best this country affords for the purpose. It was late in the evening before we got to the intended place of embarkation on the river. - . Sunday 23rd. The morning was cloudy. When I awoke this morning I found a material difference between the river and country here and below the falls. Here the river is wide and the current gentle. There are three small islands at this place and some timber on the banks, but not much, and what is there is cotton-wood and willow. The banks are very low, and the country rising in plains a considerable dis- tance on both sides of the river; and far off moun- tains covered with snow on both sides and ahead. Two of the men and myself remained with Captain Lewis here to assist him in putting together his iron boat, the rest went back for another load. The iron boat-frame is to be covered with skins and requires a quantity of thin shaved strips of wood for lining. In the forenoon we put the frame together, which is 36 feet long, 4} wide, and 2 feet 2 inches deep. In the afternoon Capt. Lewis and one of the men went down to Medicine river, which is about two miles distant; to see whether the three men sent there to hunt had procured any elk skins. In the evening they found one of the hunters, and encamped with him all night. - JOURNAL. 103 Monday 24th. In the morning Capt. Lewis came up to our Camp- We found it very difficult to pro- cure stuff for the boat. The two men which Captain Lewis had left in the morning came to our camp in the afternoon, but had seen nothing of the other two hunters. In the evening there was a very heavy shower of rain; at night the weather cleared up, and the men arrived with two more canoes. The two hunters which Capt. Lewis could not find, had killed some buffaloe below the mouth of the Medicine river, where one remained, and the other had gone across to the camp below the falls again, but had ſound no clº. - * Tuesday 25th. A cloudy morning. The men went back for more canoes and baggage ; and one went down to the hunter’s camp below Medicine river to bring him up in a canoe. Another went up the river to look for elk. When he had gone about three miles, he was attacked by 3 brown bears, that were near devouring him; but he made his escape by running down a steep bank into the water. In this adventure he fail, injured his gun, and hurt one of his hands; therefore returned to camp. One of the men and myself went over to an island to look for stuff for the canoe, but could find nothing but bark, which perhaps will answer. We killed two elk en the island. There is in the bottoms a great quantity of spear-mint and currant bushes. Also multitudes of blackbirds. The musquitoes are very trouble- some, though the snow is on the mountains so near. In the evening the two men came up the river with a quantity of good meat and 100 pounds of tallow. Wednesday 26th. A fine morning. Two hunters went up the river, and myself and another went over the river to collect bark; where a great gang of buf- faloe came near us, and we killed 7 of them. In the evening the men returned over the plains with two more canoes and baggage. One man fell very sick, LC-4 - JOURNAL. and Captain Lewis had to bleed him with a penknife, having no other instrument at this camp. Captain Clarke measured the length of this portage accu- rately and found it to be 18 miles. He also mea- sured the height of the falls, and found them in a distance of 17 miles 362 feet 9 inches. The first great pitch 98 feet, the second 19 feet, the third 47 feet 8 inches, the fourth 26 feet; and a number of small pitches, amounting altogether to 362 feet 9 inches. Thursday 27th. A fine day. The men went back for the remaining canoe and baggage. The sick man is become better. This morning some elk came close to camp and we killed two of them. In the afternoon a dreadful hail storm came on, which iast- ed half an hour. Some of the lumps of ice that fell weighed 3 ounces, and measured 7 inches in circum- ference. The ground was covered with them, as white as snow. It kept cloudy during the evening and some rain fell. At night the two hunters that went up the river returned. They had killed while out 9 elk and 3 bears. - Zºriday 28th. A fine morning. There are but 6 persons now at this camp, but all busy about the boat; some shaving skins, some sewing them together; and some preparing the wood part. Saturday 29th. We had a very hard gust of wind and rain in the morning ; but a fine forenoon after it. Captain Lewis and a hunter went down the river about 7 miles, to see a very large spring which rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side. In the afternoon there was another heavy shower of rain, and after it a fine evening. Captain Lewis came to camp, but drenched with rain. Sunday 30th. A fine morning, and heavy dew, which is very rare in this country. The men with the canoe and baggage did not return, as we ex- gected. JOURNAL. ſº; Jºday 1st July, 1805. A fine day. In the aſ- ternoon, Captain Clarke and the men came with all the baggage except some they had left six miles back. The hail that fell on the 27th hurt some of the men very badly. Captain Clarke, the interpre- ter, and the squaw and child, had gone to see the spring at the falls; and when the storm began, they tºok shelter under a bank at the mouth of a run ; but in five minutes there was seven feet water in the run ; and they were very near being swept away. They lost a gun, an umbrella and a Surveyor’s com- pass, and barely escaped with their lives, Tuesday 2nd. A fine morning. The Surveyor's sompass, which had been lost was found to day. The men went out for the baggage which had been left on the way, and got in with the whole of it, and canoes safe. In the evening, the most of the corps crossed over to an island, to attack and rout its monarch, a large brown bear, that held possession and seemed to defy all that would attempt to besiege him there. Our troops, however, stormed the place, gave no quarter, and its commander fell. Our army returned the same evening to camp without having suffered any loss on their side. - Wednesday 3rd. A fine morning. I was so enga- ged with the boat, that I had not visited the falls. 1. therefore set out with one of the men to day for that purpose. I found the 2nd pitch the most beautiful, though not the highest. About a mile below the up- per pitch, the largest and most beautiful spring rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side that I ever beheld. We had a light shower of rain. During this excursion I saw more buffaloe than I had seen in any-day previous: we killed 7 of them before we returned to camp. We also saw 25 wolves in one rang or pack. ºursday 4th. A fine day. A part of the men were i86 JOURNAL. busily engaged at the boat, and others in dressing: skins for clothing, until about 4 o’clock in the af. ternoon, when we drank the last of our spirits in ce- lebrating the day, and amused ourselves with dan- cing till 9 o'clock at night, when a shower of rain fell and we retired to rest. Priday 5th. A fine morning. All the men, ex- rept five of us who were engaged at the boat, went to hunt; at night they came in and had killed seve- ral buffaloe and some cabres or antelopes. Saturday 6th. As many of the hands as could find room to work were engaged at the boat; and four went down the river to hunt buffaloe, in order to get their skins to cover our craft. This was a beautiful and pleasant day. Sunday 7th. The morning was fine. The hunters had remained out all night. In the evening some few drops of rain fell ; and the hunters came in ; but had not had good luck, the buffaloe being nost- ly out in the plains. At night we got our boat fin- ished, all but greasing ; and she was laid out to dry. Monday 8*. Again we had a fine morning, and a number of the party went out to hunt. In the evening they all came in, and had killed but three buffaloe, a deer and a cabre; and caught a small animal almost like a cat, of a light colour. Yester- day one of the men caught a small squirrel, like a ground squirrel, but of a more dun colour, and more spotted. We finished the boat this evening, having covered her with tallow and coal-dust. We called her the Experiment, and expect she will answer our purpose. - Tuesday 9th. A fine morning, and heavy dew. In the ſorenoon we loaded our canoes, and put the Ex- periment into the water. She rides very light but leaks some. In the aſternoon a storm of wind, with some rain came on from the north west, and we had again to unload some of our canoes, the waves ran sº - JOURNAL. 107 high. After the storm we had a fine evening. The tailow and coal were found not to answer the pur- pose ; for as soon as dry, it cracked and scaled off, and the water came through the skins. Therefore for want of tar or pitch we had, after all our labour, to haul our new boat on shore, and leave it at this lace. - Wednesday 10th. A fine cool morning. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thought it would be best to make two canoes more, if we could get timber large enough. So Captain Clarke and 10 men set out in search of it. Some of the hunters having seen large timber about 20 miles up the river, the canoes were sent on loaded, and a party went by land; the distance that way being only 6 or 7 miles. If timber is found the canoes are to unload and return for the remainder of the baggage. Captain Lewis, myself and nine men staid to take the boat asunder and bury her; and deposited her safely under ground. Captain Lewis had an observation at 12 which gave 479.3 10 N. Latitude. In the afternoon I went out to see if there were any buffaloe near, but found none : they appear to have all left the river. On the bank of a run where there are high rocks, I found a great quantity of sweet gooseberries, all ripe. Thursday 11th. We continued here waiting for the return of the canoes until 2 o’clock; then four of us went out and killed a buffaloe and brought in part of the meat. The canoes did not come back this evening. Friday 12th. A fine morning. Myself and three of the men went up the river to assist Captain Clarke's party. In our way we passed a small bot- tom on the north side of the river, in which there is an old Indian lodge 216 feet in circumference. Here we saw some wild pigeons and turtle doves. Having gone about 7 miles we found Captain Clarke's party, who had cut down two trees and ta. 198 JOURNAL. ken off logs for canoes, one 25 and the other 30 feet in length. The canoes had returned to our old camp, where Captain Lewis was. Saturday 13th. A fine day, but high wind. Cap- tain Lewis came up here, accompanied by the squaw. He informed us that the canoes had started with all the baggage from the former encampment, which we had called White-bear camp. The mus- quitoes are very troublesome. This evening the canoes were finished except the putting in some knees. Sunday 14th. A fine morning. About 11 o’clock the men came up with the canoes and baggage. The distance by water was found to be 22 miles, and by land only 6 miles. In the afternoon some rain fell but we continued to work at the canoes, and finished them ready for loading. 3OURNAL. -109 CHAP, X. Monday 15th. After a night of heavy rain, we had a pleasant morning, and loaded the canoes. About 11 o’clock we set out from this place, which we had called Canoe camp; had fine still water, and passed some handsome small bottoms on both sides of the river. We also passed a handsome river on the south side about 100 yards wide, which seemed to have its source in a large mountain on the same side. The snow appears to have melted from all the mountains in view. The country around is composed of dry plains, with short grass. We passed two small creeks, one on each side of the river; made 26 miles, and encamped on the north side. Tuesday 16th. We embarked early and had a fine morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on a- head to the mountain to take an observation. We passed the channel of a river on the south side with- out water, about 60 yards wide. We had fine water until about 1 o’clock, when we came within about two miles of the mountain; when the water became more rapid; but the current not so swift as below the fails. At this place there are a number of small islands. One of our men has been taken unwell. In the af. ternoon we continued our voyage, and the water con- tinued very rapid. We got about 3 miles into the first range of the Rock mountains, and encamped on the north side of the river on a sand beach. There is some fine timber on the mountains, but not much in this part. There are great hills of solid rock of a dark colour. This day we went about 20 miles. Wednesday 17th. We set out early, and the morn- ing was fine and pleasant. At 8 o’clock we came to K 1 10 JOURNAL. Captain Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the river, and took breakfast. We had here to join the crews of two canoes together, to go up the rapids which were about half a mile long. The Missouri at this place is very narrow. At the head of these rapids a fine spring comes in on the south side, which rises about a quarter of a mile from the river; and has a good deal of small cotton-wood and willows on its banks. There is also another spring below the rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river. We proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or peaks of these mountains are 700 (perhaps some nearly 1200) feet high, all rock; and though they are almost perpendicular, we saw mountain sheep on the very tops of them. We saw few other ani- mals to day. The general breadth of the river is 100 yards. We went 11 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the north side. - Thursday 18th. The morning was fair and we proceeded on early : passed Clear-water river on the north side about 50 yards wide, rapid and shallow. There are a great quantity of currants all along the liver on both sides in the small bottoms. At break- fast time Captain Clarke with three men went on a- head. About 11 we got through the higher part of the mountains, and to where there is less timber and the rocks not so large. In the forenoon we passed two small creeks on the north side, and in the after- noon a small river on the same side; above the mouth of which we got a deer skin, that Captain Clarke's man had hung up, The country continues much the same. We made 20 miles this day. Friday 19th. A fine morning. At 9 we came to high parts of the mountains, which had a good deal of pine, spruce and cedar on them, and where there were not so many rocks; but no timber in the bot- toms except some small willows. About 1 o'clock JOURNAL. 11. we had thunder, lightening and rain, which conti- nued an hour or two, and then the weather became lear. This afternoon we passed parts of the moun- ºins, that were very high, and mostly of solid rock of a light colour. The mountains are so close on the river on both sides that we scarcely could find room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped ºn the south side. After night some rain ſell. Saturday 20th. We had a fine morning, and em- barked early. About 8 we got out of the high part of the mountains, and came to where they are lower and not so rocky ; and where there are the finest currants I ever saw of different kinds, red, yellow and black : the black are the most pleasant and p3- latable. There is also a good portion of timber on the mountains ail along this part. We killed an elk in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain Clarke had left on the bank with a note, informing us he would pass the mountain he was then on, and wait for the canoes. We passed a small creek on the south side, and about 2 o’clock came to a level plain on the north side, from which we saw a strong smoke ising, and supposed it was from a fire made by Capt. Clarke. The river is very crooked in general, and here is a great bend to the southeast; and in the af- ternoon it turned so far that our course was north ºf east. We proceeded on through a valley between two mountains, one of which we passed, and the other is in view ahead. We went 15 miles and en- camped at the mouth of a small run on the south side. - Sunday 21st. We set out at sunrise and had a pleasant morning ; passed some middling high hills on the river, and rocks of a red purple colour; also two small creeks one on each side. There are a few pines on the hills. At noon our course began to change more to the southwest again ; the wind blew very hard and some drops of rain fell. In the after- - - - - - - - - - - - | 12 JOURNAL. - - noon we passed through a ridge, where the river is very narrow; and close above a large cluster of small islands, where we had some difficulty to get along, the water being so much separated. We went 15 miles and an half and encamped on the south side, on a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters killed a fine deer. Monday 22nd. We embarked early, the weather being pleasant: passed some fine springs on the southern shore, and a large island near the northern : On the south side the country is level to a good dis- tance, but on the north the hills come close to the liver. At breakfast our squaw informed us she had been at this place before when small. Here we got a quantity of wild onions. At half past 9, we pro- ceeded on again ; passed a large island at noon; and in the afternoon, more islands : and came to a place where Captain Clarke and his party were encamped. They told us they had seen the same smoke, which we had discovered a few days ago, and found it had been made by the natives, who they supposed had seen some of us, and had fled, taking us for enemies. We went 17 miles and an half and encamped on an island; where we found the musquitoes very bad. We saw to day several banks of snow on a mountain west of us. - - Zuesday 23rd. A cloudy morning. We embarked early, and at the same time Captain Clarke and four men went on again to endeavour to meet with some of the natives. We had rapid water, and passed a - - - - - great number of islands. Capt. Clarke and his men killed four deer and a cabre, and left the skins and meat on the shore, where we could easily find them. The course of the river all day was nearly from the south, through a valley of 10 or 12 miles wide. The mountains are not so high not so rocky, as those we passed. Large timber is not plenty, but there are a great quantity of steal shrubs and wiłławs. We - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAſ 113 - - - - -- passed a small river on the south. side, and some banks of very white clay. We encamped on an island, having made 24 miles. Wednesday 24th. The morning was fine, and we early prosecuted our voyage; passed a bank of very red earth, which our squaw told us the natives use for paint. Deer are plenty among the bushes, and one of our men killed one on the bank. We continued through the valley all day: Went 19 miles and en- camped on the north side. Thursday 25th. We embarked and proceeded on at the usual time, in a fine morning ; we passed a beautiful plain on the north side, and at 2 o’clock we came to the entrance of another chain of mountains; where we took dinner and again went on. Passing through this chain we ſound some difficult rapids, but good water between them. This chain of mountains are not so high, nor so rocky as those we passed be- fore. Six very fine springs rise on the southern shore, about four miles above the entrance of this range. We went 16 miles and encamped on the north side. - Friday 26th. The morning was fine and we conti- nued our course through the mountains. There are some cedar and spruce trees on the shores; but very little of any kind on the mountains. About 11 o’clock we got through this range into a valley : About 2 came to a large island and halted on it for dinner. A rattle-snake came among our canoes in the water, of a kind different from any I had seen. It was about two feet long, of a light colour, with small spots all over. One of our hunters went on ahead in the morning, and at this place killed 4 deer. While we remained here it became cloudy and some rain ſell. At 4 o'clock we proceeded on through the valley; passed a creek on the south side, and having gone 8 miles and an half encamped on the same side, where a small mountain comes in to the river, - O K - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 114 Journ AL. Saturday 27th. We continued our voyage early, and had a pleasant morning ; proceeded on, and at 9 o'clock got through the small mountain. At the entrance of the valley, a branch of the Missouri comes in on the south side, about 60 yards wide; the current rapid but not very deep. Here we took breakfast, and having proceeded on a mile, came to another branch of the same size. There is very lit- tle difference in the size of the 3 branches. On the bank of the north branch we found a note Captain Clarke had left informing us, he was ahead and had gone up that branch. We went on to the point, and, as the men were much fatigued, encamped in order to rest a day or two. After we halted here, it began to rain and continued three hours. About 12 o’clock Capt. Clarke and his men came to our encampment, and told us they had been up both branches a consi- derable distance, but could discover none of the na- tives. There is a beautiful valley at these forks; and a good deal of timber on the branches, chiefly cotton-wood. Also currants, goose and service ber- ries, and choak-cherries on the banks. The deer are plenty too; some of the men went out and killed several to day. Capt. Clarke was very unwell and had been so all last night. In the evening the weather became clear and we had a fine night. Sunday 28th. As this was a fine day, the men were employed in airing the baggage, dressing skins and hunting. Capt. Clarke still continued unwell. Our squaw informed us, that it was at this place she had been taken prisoner by the Grossventers 4 or 5 years ago. From this valley we can discover a large moun- tain with snow on it, towards the southwest; and ex- pect to pass by the northwest end of it. Capt. Lewis had a meridian altitude here, which gave 45° 22 34 .5 north latitude. We also remained here the 29th, which was a fine day, and the men chiefly JOURNAL. 115 employed in the same way. Capt. Clarke is getting better. Tuesday 30th. We left our encampment at the forks, and proceeded on about 7 o'clock A. M. up the north branch. This branch is about 60 yards wide and 6 feet deep, with a rapid current. We passed a number of islands. The valley continued on the south side all this day; but the spur of a mountain, about 5 or 6 miles from the forks came in close on the north side with very high cliffs of rocks. We encamped where it terminated, having made 13 miles and an half. Wednesday 31st. We set out early, and had a fine cool morning with dew. Last night Capt. Lewis went on ahead, and the canoes being unable to get on to him, he was obliged to encamp out alone in this howling wilderness. We passed a small creek this morning on the south side, which empties into the river, through 2 or 3 mouths, on account of its being much dammed up by the beaver, which are very plenty. At breakfast time we came up to Capt. Lewis; and having made 17 miles and three quar- ters, encamped on an island. Thursday 1st August, 1805. We set out early in a fine morning and proceeded on till breakfast time; when Capt. Lewis, myself and the two interpreters went on ahead to look for some of the Snake Indians. Our course lay across a large mountain on the north side, over which we had a very fatiguing trip of about Il miles. We then came to the river again, and found it ran through a handsome valley of from 6 to 8 miles wide. At the entrance of this valley, which is covered with small bushes, but has very little tim- ber, we killed two elk and left the meat for the canoes to take up, as the men stood much in need of it, have ing no fresh provisions on hand. We crossed a small creek on the noyth shore, and encamped on the same side, 1, 16 JOURNAL, Friday 2nd. The morning was fine and we went on at sunrise, proceeded 4 or 5 miles and crossed the river. In the middle of the day it was very warm in the valley, and at night very cold; so much so that two blankets were scarce a sufficient cover- ing. On each side of the valley there is a high range of mountains, which run nearly parallel, with some spots of snow on their tops. We killed a deer ; went about 24 miles and encamped on the south side. - Saturday 3rd. A fine cool morning. We left a note for Capt. Clarke, continued our route along the valley; and passed several fine springs that issue from the mountains. Currants and service berries are in abundance along this valley, and we regaled ourselves with some of the best I had ever seen. We went about 22 miles and encamped. The night was disagreeably cold. Sunday 4th. At sunrise we continued our march, in a fine morning ; went about 6 miles when we came to a fork of the river; crossed the south branch and from a high knob discovered that the river had forked below us, as we could see the timber on the north branch about 6 or 7 miles from the south and west branches. We therefore crossed to the north branch, and finding it not navigable for our canoes, went down to the confluence and left a note for Capt. Clarke directing him to take the left hand branch. We then went up the north branch about 10 miles and encamped on it. - Monday 5th. This morning Capt. Lewis thought it would be best for me and one of the interpreters to go over to the west branch, and remain there, un- til he and the other should go higher up the north, cross over in search of Indians and then go down and join us. At night they came to our camp, but had not seen any of the natives, nor any fresh signs. - JOURNAL. 117 Tuesday 6th. We started early to go down to the point to see if the canoes had come up that far, and came upon the north branch about 2 miles above it. Here we discovered that the people in the canoes had not found the note, and with great difficulty, had proceeded 5 or 6 miles up the north branch. In their return down one of the canoes was overturned ; a knapsack, shot-pouch and powder-horn lost, and all the rest of the loading wet. We got down to the forks about 12 o'clock, put all our baggage out to dry, and encamped for the night. Some hunters went out and killed 3 deer. Wednesday 7th. We remained here during the forenoon, which was fair and clear, and where Capt. Lewis took a meridian altitude, which made the lati- tude of this place 45° 2 53 north. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we were ready to continue our voyage. In the evening a heavy cloud came up, and we had hard thunder with lightening and rain. We went on 7 miles and encamped on the north side, when the weather cleared, and we had a fine night. The canoes came 62 miles and three quarters while we were out. Thursday 8th. We proceeded on early and had a pleasant morning. The west branch which we went up is about 30 yards wide, and the south, which we passed, about 15 yards. Three hunters went by land to day, and at noon had killed 2 deer and a goat or cabre. The river is very crooked in this valley. The hunters again went out in the afternoon and killed 2 deer more. There are no buffaloe in this part of the country, and other game is not plenty. We went this day 19 miles. We found out the reason why Capt. Clarke did not get the note left at the point, which was that a beaver had cut down and dragged off the poie, on which I had fixed it. 118 JOURNAL. Friday 9th. We set out at sunrise, and had a fine morning with some dew; proceeded on till 9 o'clock when we halted for breakfast. Here one of the hun- ters came to us who had been out since the morning the canoes went up the north branch by mistake, and who had that morning preceded them by land. Here also Captain Lewis and three men started to go on a- head; and at 10 we proceeded on with the canoes. The river is narrow and very crooked, and the val- - ley continues about the same breadth. There is some timber on the mountain on the south side, and white earth or rocks appearing through the pines. At noon we halted for dinner, and hauled out one of the canoes, which had sprung a leak and caulked her. This morning our commanding officers thought proper that the Missouri should lose its name at the confluence of the three branches we had left on the 30th ultimo. The north branch, which we went up, they called JEFFERson ; the west or middle branch, MADIsox ; the south branch, about 2 miles up which a beautiful spring comes in, GALLATIN and a small river above the forks they called Philosoſhy. Of the 3 branches we had just left, they called the north Wisdom, the south Philanthroſy, and the west or mid- die fork, which we continued our voyage along, re- tained the name of JEFrenson. We went 14 miles and encamped on the south side. Our two hunters killed but one goat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - JOURNAL. lº CHAP. XI. Saturday 10th. We set out early in a fine morn- ing, and proceeded on through the valley, until breakfast time, when we came to a place where the river passes through a mountain. This narrow pas- sage is not more than a quarter of a mile in length. At the upper end another valley commences, but not so wide as the one below. There is no timber in the lower end of this valley; and the river very crooked, narrow, and in some places so shallow, that we were obliged to get into the water and drag the canoes along. At 1 o'clock we halted to dine, when ashower of rain came on with thunder and lightening, and continued an hour, during which some hail fell. Two hunters were out to day and killed but one deer. We came 13 miles and encamped on the North side. Here the valley begins to be more extensive. Sunday 11th. This morning was cloudy and we did not set out until after breakfast. Three hunters were sent out and we proceeded on about 3 miles, when we came to a large island, which is 3000 miles from the river Du Bois at the mouth of the Missouri. We therefore called it 3000 mile Island. We took up the South side of it, and had difficulty in passing the water being shallow. About 2 some rain fell.– Our hunters killed 3 deer and a goat. We went 14 miles and encamped on the North side. Monday 12th. We proceeded on at the usual time, and three hunters were again sent out. A few drops of rain fell to day. Our hunters killed 4 deer; and after making 12 miles we encamped on the North side. - - Tºday 13th. A cloudy morning. We set out i 20 JOURNAL. early, through rapid water; the river being crooked and narrow, and passed a small creek on the south side. The weather was cold during the whole of this day. We went 16 miles and encamped in a beauti- ful plain on the South side. Wednesday 14th. The morning was clear and cold. We embarked after breakfast; passed a small creek on the north side and a beautiful valley on the same side. Timber is very scarce, and only some few scattering trees along the river. Our hunters came in at noon, who had been out all day yesterday: they had killed 5 deer and a goat. There are a few deer and goats in this part of the country; and otter and beaver in plenty along the river, but no other kind of game that we could discover. There are some fish in the river and trout of a large size, and of the black kind. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side where we had great difficulty in procuring a suffi- cient quantity of wood to cook with. - Thursday 15th. We had a fine morning and pro- ceeded on about 8 o’clock. Having gone 2 miles, we came to the entrance of a mountain, where Captain Lewis and his party on the second day after their de- parture had taken dinner; and had left 4 deer skins. At the entrance of the mountain there are two high pillars of rocks, resembling towers on each side of the river. The mountains are not very high and do not approach so near the river as some we have pass- ed; they are about a quarter of a mile distant, and the river meanders along between them through the bushes and is not more than 20 yards wide, and about a foot and a half deep. The water is very cold, and severe and disagreeable to the men, who are frequent- ly obliged to wade and drag the canoes. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side. Friday 16th. We did not set out till after breakfast, and while here one of the men went out and killed a fine buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the journal. *2 . ºver is very narrow, crooked and shallow. This morning we passed a place where the hills come close to the river for a short distance, and then open on each side of a small valley, which, on account of the great quantity of service berries in it, we called Ser- Vice-berry valley. We passed over a rapid of about a quarter of a mile, and encamped on the South side. having come 15 miles. Saturday 17th. A fine morning. We proceeded on about 2 miles, and discovered a number of the natives, of the Snake nation, coming along the bank on the South side. Captain Lewis had been as far as the waters of the Columbia river and met them there. We continued on about two miles further to a place where the river forks, and there halted and encamped, after much fatigue and difficulty. The water is so shallow that we had to drag the canoes, one at a time, almost all the way. The distance across from this place to the waters of the Columbia river is about 40 miles, and the road or way said to be good. There were about 20 of the natives came over with Captain Lewis and had the same number of horses. Here we unloaded the canoes, and had a talk with the Indians ; and agreed with them that they should lend us some of their horses to carry our baggage to the Columbia river. Sunday 18th. A fine morning. We bought three horses of the Indians. Captain Clarke and 11 more, with our interpreter and his wife, and ail the Indians set out at 11 o'clock to go over to the Columbia- The Indians went for horses to carry our baggage, and we to search for timber to make canoes for des. cending the Columbia. We proceeded up the north branch which is the largest and longest branch of Jefferson river, through a handsome valley about 5 miles wide. In this we found a number of springs and small branches, but no timber. There is plenty ºf grass and clover, and also some flax all along it. I. - 122 JOURNAL. The Indians all except 5 went on ahead. We tra. velled 15 miles and encamped close on the branch which is about 5 yards wide. Here we killed two small deer. The country all around is very moun- tainous, with some few pine trees on the mountains. At three o’clock this afternoon there was a violent gust of wind, and some rain fell. In about an hour the weather became clear, and very cold, and continu- ed cold all night. - Monday 19th. A fine morning, but cold. We proceeded on at 8 o’clock along the valley for six miles, when the hills came more close on the branch, which here divides into three parts or other small branches, and two miles further the principal branch again forks, where the mountains commence with a thick grove of small pines on our left, and large rocks on our right. At 1 o'clock we dined at the head spring of the Missouri and Jefferson river, about 25 miles from the place, where we had left the canoes, and from which the course is nearly west. About 5 miles South of us we saw snow on the top of a moun- tain, and in the morning there was a severe white frost: but the sun shines very warm where we now are. At three o’clock we proceeded on, and at the foot of the dividing ridge, we met two Indians coming to meet us, and who appeared very glad to see us. The people of this nation instead of shaking hands as a token of friendship, put their arms round the neck of the person they salute. It is not more than a mile from the head spring of the Missouri to the head of one of the branches of the Columbia. We proceeded on through the mountain ; passed some fine springs and encamped about 36 miles from our camp, where. the canoes are. Here we were met by a number of the natives. * Tuesday 20th. A fine cool frosty morning. We set out early and travelled about 4 miles, to a village of the Indians on the bank of a branch of the Colum- JOURNAL. 123 bia river, about ten yards wide and very rapid. At this place there are about 25 lodges made of. willow bushes. They are the poorest and most miserable nation I ever beheld ; having scarcely any thing to subsist on, except berries and a few fish, which they contrive by some means, to take. They have a great many fine horses, and nothing more ; and on account of these they are much harassed by other nations. They move about in any direction where the berries are most plenty. We had a long talk with them, and they gave us very unfavourable accounts with respect to the rivers. From which we understood that they were not navigable down, and expect to per- form the rout by land. Here we procured a guide, and left our interpreters to go on with the natives, and assist Captain Lewis and his party to bring on the baggage. - Captain Clarke and our party proceeded down the river with our guide, through a valley about 4 miles wide, of a rich soil, but almost without timber- There are high mountains on both sides, with some pine trees on them. We went about 8 miles and en- camped on a fine spring. One of our men remained behind at the village to buy a horse, and did not join us this evening. Five of the Indians came and stay- ed with us during the night. They told us that they were sometimes reduced to such want, as to be obliged to eat their horses. Wednesday 21st. About 7 o'clock in the morning we continued our journey down the valley, and came to a few lodges of Indians where our guide lives. We remained here about two hours, during which time a number of Indians passed us, going to fish. We proceeded on the way the Indians had gone; and one of our men went with them to the fishing place. The valley becomes very narrow here, and a large branch of the river comes in a short distance below. Here we had to ascend high ground, the :34 JOURNAL. bottom is so narrow ; and continued on the high ground about six miles when we came again to the river, where a fine branch flows in, the valley 4 or 5. miles wide. In this branch we shot a salmon about 6 pounds weight. We travelled 20 miles this day, and encamped at a place where the mountains come close to the river. In the valley through which we passed and all along the river, there are cherries, currants and other small fruit. The man who had remained behind at the first village and the other who had gone with the Indians to their fishing place, both joined us here. The Indians gave them five salmon to bring to us: and he that had stayed for a horse, brought one with him. At this place the river is about 70 yards wide. - Thursday 22nd. The morning was fine, with a great white frost. We began our journey at 7 o'clock; and having travelled about a mile, crossed a branch of the river. Here the mountains come so close on the river, we could not get through the nar- rows, and had to cross a very high mountain about 3 miles over, and then struck the river again, where there is a small bottom and one lodge of the natives in it, gathering berries, haws and cherries for winter food. We soon had to ascend another large moun- tain, and had to proceed in the same way until we crossed 4 of them, when we came to a large creek, where there is a small bottom and 3 lodges of Indians. Three of our men having gone through the bottom to hunt, came first upon the lodges which greatly alarmed the unhappy natives, who all fell a weeping and began to run off; but the party coming up with the guide relieved them from their fears. They then received us kindly and gave us berries and fish to eat. We remained with them about two hours and gave them some presents. Those of the natives, who are detached in small parties, appear to live bet- ter, and to have a larger supply of provisions, than JOURNAL. 125 those who live in large villages. The people of these three lodges have gathered a quantity of sun- flower seed, and also of the lambs-quarter, which they pound and mix with service berries, and make of the composition a kind of bread , which appears capable of sustaining life for some time. On this brºad and the fish they take out of the river, these people, who appear to be the most wretched of the human species, chiefly subsist. They gave us some dried salmon, and we proceeded down the river; but with a great deal of difficulty: the mountains being so close, steep and rocky. The river here is about 40 yards wide, and a continual rapid, but not deep. We went about 15 miles to day, and encamped on a small island, as there was no other level place near. Game is scarce, and we killed nothing since the 18th ºut one deer ; and our stock of provisions is ex- hºusted. ºriday 23rd. We proceeded down the river through dreadful narrows, where the rocks were in some pla– ºes breast high, and no path or trail of any kind. This morning we killed a goose, and badly wounded a large buck in the water. One of our sergeants is very unwell. We went on 3 miles, when Captain Clarke did not think proper to proceed further with the horses, until he should go forward and examine the pass. So we halted on a small flatt and break- fasted on some fish the natives had given us. Cap- tain Clarke, our guide, and three men then went on. Another Indian who had come on from the last In- dian camp remained with us. We had yet seen no timber large enough to make canoes. Two of the hunters went in search of the buck, which had been wounded; and the rest staid at the camp to fish. In the afternoon the men came in from hunting the wounded deer, but could not find him. They killed three prairie hens, or pheasants. At night the sergeant who had been sick, became better. We 2 L 126 JOURNAL. caught some small fish in the night. The natives take their fish by spearing them ; their spears for this purpose are poles with bones fixed to the ends of them, with which they strike the fish. They have but four guns in the nation, and catch goats and some other animals by running them down with horses. The dresses of the women are a kind of shifts made of the skins of these goats and mountain sheep, which come down to the middle of the leg. Some of them have robes, but others none. Some of the men have shirts and some are without any. Some also have robes made of beaver and buffaloe skins; but there are few of the former. I saw one made of ground hog skins. Saturday 24th. We had a pleasant morning and some of the men went out to hunt. The river at this place is so confined by the mountains that it is not more than 20 yards wide, and very rapid. The moun- tains on the sides are not less than 1000 feet high and very steep. There are a few pines growing on them. We caught some small fish to day, and our hunters killed 5 prairie fowls. These were all we had to subsist on. At 1 o'clock Captain Clarke and his party returned, after having been down the river about 12 miles. They found it was not possible to go down either by land or water, without much risk and trouble. The water is so rapid and the bed of the river so rocky, that going by water appeared im- practicable ; and the mountains so amazingly high, steep and rocky, that it seemed impossible to go along the river by land. Our guide speaks of a way to sea, by going up the south fork of this river, getting on to the mountains that way, and then turning to the south west again. Captain Clarke therefore wrote a letter to Captain Lewis, and dispatched a man on horseback to meet him; and we all turned back up the river again, poor and uncomfortable enough, as Journal. 27 we had nothing to eat, and there is no game. We proceeded up about 3 miles, and supperless went to rest for the night. Sunday 25th. We set out early and had a fine morning; passed the Indian camp, where they gave as a little dried salmon, and proceeded back again over the mountains. Some hunters went on ahead and about 4 o’clock we got over the four mountains, and encamped in the valley. Two men went to hunt, and all the rest to fish. We soon caught as many small fish as made, with two salmon our guide got from some Indians, a comfortable supper. At dark our hunters came in and had killed but one beaver. Monday 26th. We had again a pleasant morning ; and four hunters went on early ahead, and one man to look for the horses. We breakfasted on the bea- yer and a salmon, which had been saved from supper the preceding evening. The man, who had gone for the horses, having returned without finding them, 4 or 5 more went out, and our guide immediately ſound them. We then about 10 o’clock, proceeded on to the forks, where we found our hunters; but they had killed nothing. So we went up to a small village of the natives, got some fish from them, and lodged there all night. Tuesday 27th. A fine morning with frost; and eight of us went out to hunt. I observed some flax growing in the bottoms on this river, but saw no ckover or timothy, as I had seen on the Missouri and Jefferson river. There is a kind of wild sage or byssop, as high as a man’s head, full of branches and leaves, which grows in these bottoms, with shrubs of different kinds. In the evening we all came in again, and had killed nothing but a fish. We got some more from the natives, which we subsisted on. We lodged here again all night, but heard nothing from Captain Lewis. Wednesday 28th. The morning again was pleasant, 128 - JOURNAL. and I went on to the upper village, where I found Captain Lewis and his party buying horses. They had got 23, which with 2 we had, made in the whole 25. I then returned to our camp, a distance of 15 miles, and arrived there late. I found the wea- ther very cold for the season. Thursday 29th. There was a severe white frost. this morning. Captain Clarke and all the men except- myself and another, who remained to keep camp and prepare packsaddles, went up to Captain Lewis's camp. While I lay here to day, one of the natives shewed me their method of producing fire, which is somewhat curious. They have two sticks ready for the operation, one about 9 and the other 18 inches long : the short stick they lay down flat and rub the end of the other upon it in a perpendicular direction for a few minutes ; and the friction raises a kind of dust, which in a short time takes fire. These people make willow baskets so close and to such perfection as to hold water, for which purpose they make use of them. They make much use of the sunflower and lambs-quarter seed, as before mentioned; which with berries and wild cherries pounded together, compose the only bread they have any knowledge of or in use. The fish they take in this river are of excellent kinds, especially the salmon, the roes ºf which when dried and pounded make the best of sºp. - Friday 30th. We remained here all day, and in the evening the whole of the corps came down with in a mile of our camp, and remained there all night, being a good place for grass. Saturday 31st. They all came down to our camp, and we proceeded on with 27 horses and one mule. Our old guide after consulting with the rest of the Indians, thought it was better to go along the north side of the Columbia, than on the south side. We therefore proceeded down, the same way Captain - JOURNAL Izº Clarke had been before, 30 miles, and then turned up a creek that comes in from the north, and encamped on it about 3 miles and an half from the mouth. Two hunters had gone on ahead this morning, and at night joined us, having killed one deer. The first cost of the articles, which had been given for each horse, did not amount to more than from three to five dollars; so that the whole of thern only cost about one hundred dollars. - 130 JOURNAL. Cº. 4 P. K.I.Z. - - Sunday 1st Scºt. 1805. We set out early in a fine morning, and travelled on nearly a west course. We found here the greatest quantity and best ser- vice berries, I had ever seen before ; and abundance of choak-cherries. There is also a small bush grows in this part of the country, about 6 inches high, which bears a bunch of small purple berries. Some call it mountain holly ; the fruit is of an acid taste. We are much better supplied with water than I ex- pected ; and cross several fine springs among the mountains through which we pass. At noon some rain fell, and the day continued cloudy. About the middle of the day Capt. Clarke’s blackman’s feet be- came so sore that he had to ride on horseback. At 3 o'clock we came to a creek, where there was fine grass and we halted to let our horses eat. There are a great number of fish in this creek. After we halted the weather became cloudy, and a considerable quan- tity of rain fell. We therefore concluded to remain where we were all night, having come this day 18 miles. Our hunters killed a deer, and we caught 5 fish. Monday 2nd. The morning was cloudy. We set out early; proceeded up the creek, and passed some part closely timbered with spruce and pine. We went on with difficulty on account of the bushes, the narrowness of the way and stones that injured our horses feet, they being without shoes. In the fore- noon we killed some pheasants and ducks, and a small squirrel. In the afternoon we had a good deal of rain, and the worst road (if road it can be called) that was ever travelled. The creek is become JOURNAL, 131 - . small and the hills come close in upon the banks of it, covered thick with standing timber and fallen trees; so that in some places we were obliged to go up the sides of the hills, which are very steep, and -- - - then down again in order to get along at all. In go: ing up these ascents the horses would sometimes fall backwards, which injured them very much ; and - - one was so badly hurt that the driver was obliged to leave his load on the side of one of the hills. In the low-ground there are most beautiful tall strait pine trees of different kinds, except of white pine. Game is scarce; and a small quantity of dried salmon, which we got from the natives is almost our whole stock of provisions. A son of our guide joined us to day and is going on. We went 13 miles and encamp- ed; but some of the men did not come up till late at night. Tuesday 3rd. The morning of this day was cloudy and cool. Two men went back with a horse to bring on the load, which had been left behind last night; and we breakfasted on the last of our salmon and waited their return. Two hunters, were sent on a- head, and on the return of the two men, who had been sent back, we pursued our journey up the creek, which still continued fatiguing almost beyond description. The country is very mountainous and thickly timbered; mostly with spruce pine. Having gone nine miles we halted for dinner, which was composed of a small portion of flour we had along and the last of our pork, which was but a trifle – Our hunters had not killed any thing. We staid here about two hours, during which time some rain fell and the weather was extremely cold for the Sea- son. We then went on about 3 miles over a large mountain, to the head of another creek and encamp- - JOURNAL. high; and which probably prevent the fish from coming up. Here we encamped and met with the hunters. Tuesday 1st July, 1806. We had a fine morning. and remained here to rest ourselves and horses after the severe fatigue of coming over the mountains, and some hunters went out. The Indians still continue with us. Here the party is to be separated; some of us are to go straight across to the falls of the Mis- souri and some to the head waters of Jefferson river, where we left the canoes. At the falls we expect to be subdivided, as Capt. Lewis, myself and four or five men intend to go up Maria's river as far as the 50th degree of latitude; and a party to remain at the falls to prepare harness and other things necessary for may also take a party and go down the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow-stone river. In the afternoon our hunters good order. Wednesday 2nd. We continued here during this day, which was fine and pleasant, fixing our loading and making other arrangements for our separation. One of our hunters went out and killed two deer.— The mºsquitoes are very troublesome at this plane. hauling our canoes and baggage over the portage— Perhaps Capt. Clarke, who goes up the river here, came is, and had killed twelve deer, most of them in - - - - - - - - . - - - - --- - - - C/H.A.P. X_{ſ 1}. - - - Zhursday 3rd. We had again a fine morning collected our horses and set out. Captain Lewis and his party went down Clarke's river, and Captain Clarke with the rest of the party went up it. All the natives accompanied Captain Lewis. We proceed- ed on down Clarke's river about 12 miles, when we came to the forks; and made three rafts to carry ourselves and baggage ºver. The river here is about 50 yards wide, and very beautiful. We had to make three trips with our rafts, and in the evening got all over safe ; when we moved on up the north branch, which is out way over to the falls of the Missouri, and after travelling a mile and an half encamped for the night. Two hunters went out and killed three deer. The musketoes are worse here than have known them at any place, since we left the old Maha village on the Missouri. This north branch of the river is called by the natives Isquet-co-qual-la, which means, the road to the buffaloe.” Friday 4th. We had a beautiful morning and waited here some time in order to have a morning hunt, as our guides intend to return, and we wish to give 'em a plentiful supply of provisions to carry - them back over the mountains. While our hunters * The rout taken by Captain Lewis and his party is the direct road to the falls of the Missouri, mentioned in Cap- - - tain Clarke's letter; that taken by Captain Clarke and his party leads to the head waters of the main branch of the Mis- souri, which they ascended in their outward bound voyage. hich is a considerable distance south of the direct and w - - - --- - course from the fºlls to the crossing place of the great chain ºf Rocky Mountains. - - - JOURNAL. 2.35 were out a young Indian came to our camp, who had crossed the mountains after us. At ko o'clock out hunters came in, but had not killed any thing. We were, however, able to furnish them with two deer and an half, from those that were killed yesterday. We then gave them some presents and took a friend- ly leave of them - and it is but justice to say, that the whole nation to which they belong, are the most ſiendly, honest and ingenuous people that we have seen in the course of our voyage and travels. After taking out farewell of these good hearted, hospitable and obliging sons of the west, we proceeded on up isquet-co-qual-la through a handsome prairie of about 10 miles, after which the hills come close on the river, on both sides, and we had a rough road to pass. Having made 18 miles we encamped for the night : where the country is very mountainous on both sides of the river, which runs nearly east and west, and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide. Saturday 5th. We had another beautiful morning, set out early and proceeded on the same course as yesterday through a rough country, with a number of branches or small streams flowing from the bills. We killed one deer, and about 11 o’clock came to a valley three quarters of a mile wide, all plains, where we halted to dine and to let our horses feed. The hills upon each side are handsomely covered with timber of the fir kind. While we rested here one of our hun- ters killed a cabre or antelope. At 1 o'clock we pro- ceeded on again up the valley. When we had gone about nine miles we came to and crossed a river, about 35 yards wide, which flows in with a rapid cur- rent from some snow topped mountains on the north, where the valley is two or three miles wide. Having gone about four miles further we came to the head of the valley, where the hills come close upon the river for two miles. After we had passed these nar. rows we came to another large and beautiful valley 236 JOURNAL. four or five miles wide, and all plains, except some timber on the river banks. In the evening we en- camped on the bank of a handsome creek which comes in from the north, a bold stream of 15 yards wide. Sunday 6th. We had a fine clear morning with some white frost, and renewed our journey early : saw a great many service berries, not yet ripe, and some flax which grows on these plains. Having gone about seven miles we crossed a north branch of the Co-qual-la-isquet, which is 40 yards wide and was mid-rib deep on our horses, with a rapid current. About seven miles up the valley we passed a beauti- ful small lake; where the river and road leaves the valley, and bears towards the northeast between two hills not very large. We kept up the river, through a small brushy valley about the eighth of a mile wide, for a mile and an half, and then halted for dinner. Here our two hunters came to us, and had killed a deer. We keep two men out every day hunting. In this small valley there is a considerable quantity of cotton wood timber; and the musketoes are very troublesome. At 1 o’clock we proceeded on, passed a number of handsonse streams which fall into the river, and a number of old Indian lodges. As we advance the valley becomes more extensive, and is all plain. At night we encamped on a beautiful creek, having travelled twenty five miles. Our hun- ters killed four deer to day. Monday 7th. We had a wet night, and a cloudy morning. Continued our journey early along the valley, which is very beautiful with a great deal of cloverin its plains. Having gone about five miles, we crossed the main branch of the river, which comes in from the north ; and up which the road goes about five miles further and then takes over a hillto- wards the east. On the top of this hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We jourts AL. 237 - - passed over tº ideº and struck a small stream, which we at first thought was of the head waters of the Missouri, but found it was not. Here we halted for dinner, and after staying three hours, proceeded on four miles up the branch, when we came to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri and Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring the waters of which run into the Missouri. We then kept down this stream or branch about a mile ; then turned a north course along the side of the dividing ridge for eight miles, passing a number of small streams or branches, and at 9 o'clock at sight encamped after coming thirty two miles. Tuesday 8th. The morning was pleasant with - some white frost. We started early and proceeded ºn nearly north ; saw several deer, cabre and wolves in the plains, and after going three miles and an half passed torrent creek, a large creek that runs into Medicine river. Shortly after we passed this creek we went of the path or trail, travelled straight across the plains, and in about fifteen miles struck Medicine - river, close above the forks where we halted for din- ner ; and one of our hunters killed a deer and a cable. In the afternoon we proceeded down Medi- cine river nine miles; and having come in the whole to day twenty eight miles encamped for the night; and found the musketoes very troublesome. Wednesday 9th. A cloudy morning. We set out early to go down the river ; but had not proceeded far until it began to rain, and we halted at some old Indian lodges, where we took shelter. In an hours time the rain slackened, and we proceeded on ; but had not gone far before it began to rain again, and the weather was very cold for the season. At noon we came up with our hunters, who had killed a large buffaloe; so we halted and some of us went and dressed it, and brought in the best of the meat which was very good. We encamped here and kay - - - 233 JOURNAL. by during the afternoon as the rain continued during the whole of it. - Thursday 10th. At dark last evening the weather cleared up, and was cold all night. This morning was clear and cold, and all the mountains in sight were covered with snow, which fell yesterday and kast night.” At 8 o’clock we started down the river, and in the course of the day our hunters killed five deer, two elk and a bear. The road was a very mud- tly after the rain. The country on both sides is com- posed of beautiful plains ; the river about 80 yards ºde and tolerably straight, with some cotton wood timber on its banks; and plenty of game of different kinds ranging through the plains. Having made 24 miles we encamped for the night. - Friday 11th. This was a fine morning and we set out early to cross the point, and having gone eight miles, came to the Missouri at the Bear islands, nearly opposite our old encampment. Here our hunters, in a short time, killed five buffaloe ; and we saved the best of the meat; and of the skinsmade two canoes to transport ourselves and baggage across the river. The buffaloe are in large droves about this place. Saturday 12th. Again a fine morning. We went out to collect our houses and found that ten of them were missing. I then set out to look for them, went seven miles up Medicine river, where I found three of them and returned to camp. Two more went to hunt for them, and the rest of us crossed the river in our new craft which we find answer the purpose very * It will not be a subject of surprize that snow should fall here in the middle of summer, when the elevation of this part of the country, which divides the eastern from the wes- tern waters, is taken into view. Every person will be able to comprehend, that no small degree of elevation, above its mouth, will be sufficient to give so rapid a course to the Missouri for upwards of 3000 miles, even supposing there were no great falls or cataracts. JOURNAL, 233 well. At night one of the men returned without finding the lost horses. - - Sunday 13th. The morning was pleasant, and we moved about a mile up to our old encampment; opened a deposit we had made here and found some things spoiled; and the otherman that went to look for the horses not being returned we remained here all day airing and sunning the baggage and stores. The musketoes torment us very much, and the wolves con- tinually how night and day around our camp. Monday 14th. There was a pleasant morning.— We staid here also to day ; and the musketoes con- tinued to torment us until about noon, when a fine breeze of wind arose and drove them, for a while away. We deposited the most valuable part of our baggage and stores on a large island so that if the Indians came they would not get it. Tuesday 15th. We had pleasant weather. One of our men started to go down to the other end of the portage, to see if the periogue was safe, which we had left there; and in the aſternoon the man who had gone after the horses returned unsuccessful; but as he saw some fresh Indian signs he supposes they were stolen and taken back over the dividing ridge. Capt. Lewis therefore concluded to take fewer men and horses with him than he had intended on his excursion up Maria's river. In the evening the man who had started to go to the other end of the portage, returned without being there. A white bear met him at Willow creek, that so frightened his horse, that he threw him off among the feet of the animal; but he fortunately (being too near to shoot) had sufficient presence of mind to hit the bear on the head with his gun; and the stroke so stunned it, that it gave him time to get up a tree close by before it could seize him. The blow, however, broke the gun and rendered it useless ; and the bear watched him about three hours and went away; when he came 246) JOURNAL. down, caught his horse about two miles distant and returned to camp. These bears are very numerous in this part of the country and very dangerous, as they will attack a man every opportunity. Wednesday 16th. There was a fine morning. We collected our horses, of which Capt. Lewis took six and left four to haul the canoes and baggage over the portage; and then started to go up Maria's river with only three hunters. We continued here to repair our waggons or truckles to transport the baggage and ca- noes on when the men with them should arrive- The musquitoes are still very troublesome. When Capt. Lewis left us, he gave orders that we should wait at the mouth of Maria’s river to the 1st of Sept. at which time, should he not arrive, we were to proceed on and join Capt. Clarke at the mouth of the Yellow-stone river, and then to return home; but informed us, that should his life and health be pre- served he would meet us at the mouth of Maria’s river on the 5th of August. -- Thursday 17th. We had a pleasant day, and high wind; which drives away the musquitoes and relieves us from those tormenting insects. Friday 18th. There was another pleasant day, and I went down with three of the men to the lower end of the portage to examine the periogue and deposit there, and found all safe. We took some tobacco out of the deposit, covered up all again, until the party should arrive with the canoes, and returned to camp. Saturday 19th. The weather continues pleasant and most of the men are employed in dressing skins, as we have got all ready for crossing the portage as soon as the canoes arrive. The musquitoes were very troublesome to day. At 3 o'clock in the after- noon a sergeant and nine men arrived at our camp with the canoes and some baggage. They inform- ed me that they had a good passage over the moun- tains to the Missouri; and on their way saw a boil- - - - JOURNAL, 24 ing-hot spring, which in twenty-five minutes would boil meat put into it quite well and fit for eating.— This spring is on the head waters of Wisdom river. They had got to the canoe-deposit on the 8th instant and found every thing safe : the whole party then came down to the forks at the mouth of Jefferson river; where Capt. Clarke with ten men and the in- terpreter left them and went up Gallatin’s river in order to cross over to the Jaune, or Yellow-stone ri- wer. They had plenty of provisions all the way. In the evening we hauled the canoes out to dry. Sunday 20th. We had a fine day; but the mus- quitoes were very bad. We concluded to stay here all day, as the men, who had come with the canoes, were fatigued ; and in the evening tried our horses in harness and found they would draw very well. Monday 21st. A pleasant morning. One of the men went out for the horses; and the rest of us put two canoes on the waggons, and moved them forward by hand some distance, when the man returned with- out finding the horses. Two more then went out to look for them, and at noon came back without finding them. In the afternoon some more men went to look for them, who at night returned also without seeing anything of them ; and we lay where the canoes were all night. - - Tuesday 22nd. We had a fine morning. Eight of us started in various directions to look for the horses, and in a short time two of the men found them; harnessed them in the waggons and moved on about four miles, when one of the axletrees broke; and they returned to the river to mend it. Myself and one of the men did not return till dark, and then came to the place where the canoes were upon the plains, with some of the men. Here a heavy shower of rain came on with thunder and lightening; and we re- mained at this place all night. - 242. JOURNAL. Wednesday 23rd. There was a pleasant morning after the rain ; and I went with the man who came with me last night, and joined the party at the river. They had repaired the waggons and put on two more canoes; one of which was very large and gave us a great deal of trouble, as we could not make axletrees out of the willow that would stand more than six or eight miles. At 5 o'clock we got to Willow creek, and encamped for the night ; and made a new axle- tree. In our way to day one of the men cut his leg very bad with a knife, which so lamed him that he had to ride in one of the canoes. Thursday 24th. This was a cloudy morning. I was very much indisposed last night and am yet very unwell. I therefore staid at this camp, and the par- ty went back for two more canoes. About 3 o'clock one of the waggons with a canoe arrived; and the party with it; having let the horses feed a while, and taken dinner, they proceeded on to Portage river. About an hour after they started a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, came on, and lasted about an hour and an half. Af- ter this we had a fine evening, and a little before sunset the other waggon with a canoe arrived ; when we encamped for the night. The man who cut his leg is still very lame and continues at this camp. ºriday 25th. This was a fine morning with a re- ry heavy dew. The party set out early to Portage river with the canoe ; and in a short time the men with the other waggon came back; I was by this time so much recovered as to be able to return with the party for another canoe; which is all we will bring over, as the other is very heavy and injured: and we expect that the five small ones with the peri- ogues will be sufficient to carry ourselves and bag- gage down the Missouri. About 2 o’clock the wag- gons met at Willow creek, when we had another very heavy shower of rain accompanied with thunder and JOURNAL. 243 Iightning. At 3 o'clock we set out with both the waggons and 2 canoes to Portage river ; it rained on us hard all the way, and the road was so muddy that the horses were not able to haul the loads, without the assistance of every man at the waggons. At night we arrived at Portage river, and then had four canoes there safe. Saturday 26th. The morning was cloudy. Eight of us went back to Willow creek for the other canoe, and the rest of the party were employed in taking down the canoes and baggage to the lower end of the portage, where the periogue had been left. It rain- ed very hard all night, which has made the plains so muddy, that it is with the greatest difficulty we can get along with the canoe; though in the even- ing, after a hard day’s labour, we got her safe to Portage river, and the men run her down to the low- er landing place, where we encamped. A few drops ºf rain fell in the course of the day. JOURNAL. Cº. XXIV. Sunday 27th. In a fine clear pleasant morning, myself and one of the men crossed the river with the horses, in order to go by land to the mouth of Maria's river: the rest of the party here are to go by water. We proceeded on through the plains about twenty miles, and in our way saw a great many buffaloe. We then struck Tansy or Rose river, which we kept down about ten miles and encamped. The land along this river is handsomely covered with Cotton wood timber and there is an abundance of game of differ- ent kinds. In our way we killed a buffaloe and a goat. The wolves in packs occasionally hunt these goats, which are too swift to be run down and taken by a single wolf. The wolves having fixed upon their intended prey and taken their stations, a part of the pack commence the chace, and running it in a circle, are at certain intervals relieved by others. In this manner they are able to run a goat down. At the falls where the wolves are plenty, I had an oppor- tunity of seeing one of these hunts. Monday 28th. The morning was fine and pleasant, and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In our way we killed six goats or antelopes and seven buffaloe; and about one o'clock came to the point at the mouth of Maria’s river, where we met with the party who had come down from the falls by water, and who had just arrived; and also unexpectedly with Captain Lewis and the three men who had gone with him. They had joined the party descending the liver this forenoon, after riding one hundred and twenty miles since yesterday morning, when they had a skirmish with a party of the Prairie JOURNAL. º 45 Crossventres, or Bigbellied Indians who inha- bit the plains up Maria's river ; of which they gave the following account. On the evening of the 36th Captain Lewis and his party met with eight of those Indians, who seemed very friendly and gave them two robes. In return Captain Lewis gave one of them, who was a chief, a medal ; and they all con- tinued together during the night; but after break of day the next morning, the Indians snatched up three of our men's guns and ran off with them. One Indian had the guns of two men, who pursued and caught him, and one of them killed him with his knife; and they got back the guns. Another had Captain Lewis's gun, but immediately gave it up. The party then went to catch their horses, and found the Indians driving them off; when Captain Lewis shot one of them, and gave him a mortal wound ; who notwithstanding returned the fire, but without hurting the Captain. So our men got all their own horses, but one, and a number of those belonging to the Indians, as they ran offin confusion and left every thing they had, Our men then saddled their horses, and made towards the Missouri as fast as possible; after Captain Lewis had satisfied himself with res- pect to the geography of the country up Maria's ºver- - - We this day took the articles out of the place of deposit, and examined the large red periogue we left here, and found it too rotten to take down the river. We therefore took what nails out of it we could, left our horses on the plains and proceeded down the river. About the time we started, a heavy gust of rain and hail accompanied with thunder and light- ning came on and lasted about an hour, after which we had a cloudy wet afternoon, and in the evening we encamped about twenty five miles below the forks. Tuesday 29th. Early in a cloudy morning we com- menced our voyage from the mouth of Maria’s river; X 2 246 JOURNAL. and the current of the Missouri being very swift, we went down rapidly. At noon we saw some Ibex or Bighorns at the entrance of a range of high rough hills; and we halted and killed two of them. Having dined we proceeded on again, and in ºur way, during the afternoon, killed seven more of these mountain sheep. There are few other animals in this range of high country. In the evening we encamped opposite the mouth of Slaughter river, and Captain Lewis had four of those animals skeletonized, to take with him to the seat of Government of the United States. A considerable quantity of rain fell in the course of the day. - Wednesday 30th. We embarked early in a cloudy morning with some rain. In our way through this high range of mountains, we killed four more of the large horned animals, two buffaloe, two beaver and a bear. - The water of the river is very thick and muddy, on account of the late falls of rain, which wash those clay hills very much. We went down the river up- wards of 70 miles to day, and encamped on a prairie island. Heavy rain fell at intervals during the day. Thursday 31st. We set out early, though it con- tinued at intervals to rain hard ; about 10 o’clock we saw a great gang of elk on a small island, where we halted and in a short time killed fifteen of them. We took the skins and the best parts of the meat, and pro- ceeded. At noon we halted to dine, and had then a very heavy shower of rain. We also killed another of the Large horned animals or mountain sheep- We remained here about an hour, then proceeded on, and will soon be clear of this range of high rough country. In our way this afternoon, we killed two mule and twelve other deer, and two beaver. Though the afternoon was wet and disagreeable, we came 70 miles to day. - Friday 1st Aug. 1806. We embarked early in a JOURNAL. 24? wet disagreeable morning, and in a short time saw a large brown or grizly bear swimming in the river, which we killed, and took on board ; passed the mouth of Muscle shoal river ; and at noon halted to dine at some old Indian lodges. Captain Lewis being afraid, from the dampness of the weather, that the skins he had procured of these big-horned ani- mals would spoil, thought it adviseable to stay here this afternoon and dry them by a fire in these old lodges : and some of the men went out to hunt. A- bout an hour after we landed here, a large bear came so close to our camp, that one of the men shot and killed it from our fire. In the evening our hunters came in and had killed several deep. The afternoon was cloudy with some rain ; and having made a fire and put the skins to dry with two men to attend them, made our arrangements for the night. Saturday 2nd. This was a fine clear morning, and Captain Lewis thought it best to stay here to day also and dry all our baggage, as it was become damp and wet. Two hunters were sent on in a canoe to hunt; and in the course of the day we got every thing dry and ready to set out the next morning. Sunday 3rd. We had a fine morning, and at 6 o'clock got under way and proceeded on. Having gone ten miles we came up with the hunters who had killed twenty four deer. We went on very rapid- ly and saw great gangs of elk feeding on the shores, but few buffaloe. At sunset we encamped having gone 73 miles. Monday 4th. This was another pleasant day and we proceeded on early. One of the small canoes with two hunters did not come up last night. We left another small canoe with some hunters behind and proceeded on. We went very rapidly, and in our way killed a buffaloe, an elk, and some deer. At five o'clock we passed the mouth of Milk river, which was very high and the current strong. Having pro- ceeded 88 miles we encamped fer the night. 2 is JOURNAL. Zuesday 5th. Last night was cloudy and thunder was heard at a distance. About midnight the small canoe we left yesterday came floating down with the current, and would have passsdusifour centinel had not hailed it: the hunters in it killed a bear and two deer. This morning was also cloudy, and we halted here till noon in expectation that the other canoe would come down ; but there was then no appearance of it; and we began to suspect it had passed in the night. The forenoon had become clear and pleasant, and at noon we got under way. As we went on we killed a very fat buffaloe and some deer; and two hunters who went on ahead in the morning killed two very large brown bears. At sunset we encamped and at dark a violent gust of wind and rain came ºn with thunder and lightening, which lasted about an hour ; after which we had a fine clear night. Wednesdny 6th. We embarked early, and had a fine morning, but high wind. At 12 o'clock the wind blew so violent that it became dangerous to go on, and we halted ; and some of the men went out and shot a large buck, but not dead and he got into the river; when two of them pursued in a canoe and caught him. Having remained here three hours, we again went on until night and encamped. We have yet seen nothing of the two hunters who had been left behind in the small canoe. Thursday 7th. The morning was cloudy, and we set out early, after a very heavy shower of rain which fell before day light. We proceeded on very well- and about 4 o’clock arrived at the mouth of the Yellow Stone river. We found that Captain Clarke had been encamped on the point some time ago, and had left it. We discovered nothing to inform us where he was gone, except a few words written or traced in the sand, which were “ W. C. a few miles further down on the right hand side.” Captain Lewis having left a few lines for the two meu in the canoe, JOURNAL. 249 to inform them, if they are still behind, where we were gone, we continued our voyage. At night we encamped after coming above 100 miles; and though dark, killed a fat buffaloe at the place of our encamp- ment. Friday 8th. We had a fine clear cool morning with some white frost; proceeded on early and in a short time past one of Captain Clarke’s camps. At ºne o'clock we halted to repair the periose, and to dºess some skins to make ourselves clothing. The muséuitoes are more troublesome here than at any place since we left the falls of the Missouri. A par- ty of men went out to hunt and killed some elk and deer ; the rest were employed in dressing deer and cabre skins. Saturday 9th. This was another fine day; and moº of the men were employed as yesterday; and in making small oars for our canoes. Two of them went over the river and killed an elk aud a deer. Sunday 10th. We had a fine morning and were employed in repairing the periogue and dressing skins, until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we got the periogue completed, loaded our craft, and at ſout o'clock proceeded on to the mouth of White-earth river, and encamped opposite it on the same bottom, where we encamped on the 21st April 1805. In the afternoon some drops of rain fell; and the musqui- toes here were very bad indeed. Monday 11th. The morning was pleasant; and we set out early ; passed Captain Clarke's encamp- men; of the night of the 8th Instant, and proceeded on to the burnt bluffs, where we saw a gang of elk feeding. The canoes were then sent to shore with a party of men to endeavour to kill some of them ; and we proceeded on with the periogue. In about half a mile further we saw another gang ; when we halted and Captain Lewis and one of the men went ºut after them. In a short time Captain Lewis re; 25e JOURNAL. turned wounded and very much alarmed ; and order- ed us to our arms, supposing he had been shot at by Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I went out with three men to reconnoitre and examine the bush- es, which are verythick at this place, and could see no Indians; but after some time met with the man who went out with Captain Lewis, and found on in- quiry that he had shot him by accident through the hips, and without knowing it pursued the game- Having made this discovery we returned to the peri- ouge; examined and dressed Captain Lewis's wound; and found the ball, which had lodged in his overalls. The canoes having come down, we proceeded on, after dressing two elk that had been killed at this place, and passed an encampment which Captain Clarke had left in the morning. We found a note here informing us, that the Indians had stolen all the horses which he had sent with a serjeant and party, from Yellow Stone river, and that the serjeant with the party came down in skin canoes and met him at this place. We then proceeded on some distance and encamped. - Tuesday 12th. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded on. Captain Lewis is in good spirits ; but his wound stiff and sore. Having gone about nine miles we met with two men on the river trapping and hunting. Captain Lewis gave them some ammuni- tion, and directions with respect to the river above. They informed us that Captain Clarke and party had passed them yesterday at noon. We proceeded on and at 10 o’clock overtook Captain Clarke and his party, all in good health. The two men with the small canoe, who had been some time absent, came down and joined at the place where we met with the two strangers : and now, (thanks to God) we are all together again in good health, except Captain Lewis, and his wound is not dangerous. After the Corps were seperated among the mount JOURNAL. 251 tains, as before mentioned, Captain Clarke's party proceeded on to the Canoe deposit, near the head of the main branch of the Missouri (called Jefferson’s river) and having descended with the canoes to the mouth of the branch, which they called Gallatin, Cap- Clarke with ten men left those, who were to take down the canoes to the falls; travelled three days up Gallatin’s river towards the south, when they crossed a ridge and came upon the waters of the Jaune or Yellow-stone river. Having gone about 100 miles down this riverby land they made two canoes, and Cap- tain Clarke having sent off a sergeant and three men with the horses to the Mandan villages, went down himself with six other men by water. On the second day after the sergeant and his party had started for the Mandan villages, the Indians stole the whole of the horses, and the party were obliged to descend the river in skin canoes. Captain Clarke’s party in their rout had found game plenty of different kinds, buf- faloe, elk, deer, beaver, otter and some other animals. They also found the Yellow-Stone river a pleasant and navigable stream, with a rich soil along it; but timber scarce. We here took the men on board, and left the buf- faloe canoes. At night we encamped on a sand beach, as the musketoes are not so bad there as in the woods. Wednesday 13th. After a stormy night of wind and rain we set out early in a fine morning; about nine o'clock passed the Little Missouri and went on very well during the whole of the day. In the evening those in some of the small canoes, which were ahead, saw Indians, who fled before they could speak to them. At night we encamped opposite an old win- tering village of the Grossventres, which had been deserted some time ago. - Thursday 14th. The morning of this day was plea- sant, and we embarked early. In a short time we 252 JOURNAL. arrived near to our old friends the Grossventres and Mandans ; and fixed our encampment in a cen- tral position, so as to be most convenient to the diſ. ferent villages. The inhabitants of all the villages appeared very glad to see us, and sent us presents of corn, beans and squashes. Friday 15th We had a fine clear pleasant morn- ing, and continued here all day, to ascertain whether any of the chiefs would go down with us or not.— They had to hold councils among themselves, and we had to wait for their answers. The two hunters we left up the river came down, staid with us here, and got one of our party to join in partnership with them, and to return up the rivers Missouri and Jaune to hunt. Saturday 16th. There was a fine cool day; and we yet remained here, waiting an answer from the na- tives. Some of these Indians are very kind and oblig- ing; furnishing us with corn, beans and squashes; but there are others very troublesome, and steal whenever they have an opportunity. Yesterday and to-day, they stole several knives and spoons; and three powder horns, and two pouches, filled with ammunition. In the afternoon the chief, called the Big-White, concluded to go down with us, and we agreed to stay until 12 o'clock to-morrow ; that he might have an opportunity to get ready for his voyage and mission. The Commanding Officers gave discharges to the man who agreed to return with the hunters up the river, and the interpreter; who intends settling among these Indians, and to whom they gave the blacksmith’s tools; supposing they might be useful to the nation. They also gave a small piece of ord- nance to the Grossventers, which they appeared very fond of. - Sunday 17th. There were some flying clouds this raorning, and the weather was cold for the season. - journal. 253 - The two strange hunters, with the man who, had re- ceived his discharge and was to go up the river with them, went on early. We lashed our small canoes together, two and two, as we expect they will be more steady this way and carry larger loads. At noon we dropped down to the village of the Big- White: and he, his wife and a child, with Geesem the interpreter for the Big-White, his wife and two chil- dren embarked in two of our canoes to go to the United States. We proceeded on at two o'clock; the wind was high, and river rough ; and in the evening we encamped having descended about twenty miles. Monday 18th. We set out early in a cloudy morn- ing, and the wind high. At 10 o’clock we killed two deer, when we halted for an hour and cooked some venison. In the evening we encamped, and some of the men went out and killed five or six more deer. Tuesday 19th. This was a cloudy windy morning, and the water so rough, that our small canoes could not safely ride the waves: so we remained here and several of the men went out to hunt. We do not go on so rapidly as we did higher up the river : but having lashed our small canoes together, we go on very safe and can make fifty or sixty miles a day Captain Lewis is getting much better and we are all in good spirits. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon the wind ceased, and we proceeded on, and met with our hunters on the bank, who had killed six elk and eleven deer. We took the meat on board, proceeded on, and encamped on a sand-beach. Wednesday 20%. We embarked early after a heavy gust of wind and rain, and proceeded on very weli. The forenoon was cloudy, without rain ; and in the afternoon the weather became clear and pleasant.— We went about seventy miles, and encamped; where we found the musketoes very troublesome. Thursday 21st. We proceeded on early and had a fine morning. At 16 * we arrived at the first 254 JOURNAL. village of the Rickarees, and halted. In our way here we met three Frenchmen in a canoe; one of them a young man, who formerly belonged to the North West Company of traders, wished to go with us to the United States; which our Commanding Officers consented to and he was taken on board one of our canoes. When we halted and landed at the villages, the natives generally assembled, and Cap- tain Clarke held a council with them; when they de- clared they would live in peace with all nations; but that their chiefs and warriors would not go to the United States at present, as they had sent one chief already, and he had not returned. There are also a great many of the Chien, or Dog nation encamped here, in large handsome leather lodges; and who have come to trade with the Rickarees for corn and beans, for which they give in exchange buffaloe meat and robes. They are a very silly superstitious peo- ple, Captain Clarke gave one of their chiefs a medal, which he gave back with a buffaloe robe, and said he was afraid of white people, and did not like to take any thing from them : but after some persuasion he accepted the medal, and we left them.” Here a Frenchman joined us to go to St. Louis, who was in the service of the Commanding Officers; and we dropped down to the village on the island, and en- camped for the night. * We think that some further proof is mesessary to esta: blish the weakness and superstition of these Indians. Had the chief persevered in his rejection of the medal, we, in- stead of thinking him silly and superstitious, would have been inclined to the opinion, that he was the wisest Indian on the Missouri. JOURNAL. 25.5 CHAP, XXV. Friday 22nd. There was a cloudy wet morn- ing, after a night of hard rain, and we stayed at this village to 12 o'clock. The natives used us friendly and with kindness; gave us corn and beans with other articles; but none of them would go down with us. At noon we got under way; and having proceeded twelve miles the weather became clear, and we halted to dry our baggage, which got very wet last night. At four o’clock we again went on, and had a fine passage till night when we encamped. Saturday 23rd. We set out early in a fine moºn- ing, but the wind was high ; and we went on very well till near noon, when the wind blew so hard that we had to halt, and were detained about four hours. Three hunters went on ahead by land, and when we had overtaken them they had killed two elk and some deer, and we halted to take in the meat. Here we had a very heavy shower of rain, which detained us another hour. We encamped at night and found the musketoes very troublesome. - Sunday 24th. We had a fine morning, and went on very well till noon, when the wind rose and blew so strong that we were obliged to halt. Having lain by three hours we again proceeded, but did not go far before we were obliged on account of the wind, again to stop, and encamp for the night. Monday 25th. The morning was again pleasant, and we proceeded on early, having sent forward two small canoes with five men to hunt. When we had gone twelve miles, we came to the mouth of the Chi- en river, where we halted and staid till noon, for the purpose of taking an observation. Some of the men 256 JOURNAL. went out to hunt, and while we remained here, killed three small deer. At half past 12 o'clock we pro- ceeded on again, and in a short time overtook our canoes with the hunters, that had gone on ahead, and killed three deer. In the evening we encamped in a handsome bottom, and a hunter killed another deer. Tuesday 26th. We set out early, and had a pleasant morning ; passed Teeton river, but saw no signs of the Teeton band of the Sioux nation. In the evening we passed Landselle’s fort; but found no persons in- habiting it. At dark we encamped after coming about sixty miles. - Wednesday 27th. We again had a pleasant day and embarked early : proceeded on till we came to the upper end of the Great-bend, and there stopped to hunt.” As our hunters saw no game, we in a short time continued our voyage round the bend; at the lower end of which we killed an elk. As we were passing an island we saw a gang of buffaloe feeding on it; when we halted and killed three of them, and encamped on the island for the night. - Thursday 28th. We had another pleasant day; * In a former geographical note (pa. 62) we stated that the place where Mr. Thompson, Astronomer to the North West Company, took his observations in the year 1798 to ascertain the latitude and longitude of the northern bend of the Missouri, was near the longitude of the Mandanvillages. If what Mr Thomson cºed the northern bend is the same with what Mr Gass calls the great bend (of which there appears little doubt) the longitude of the Mandan villages ºil be between two and three degrees west of the northern, or great bend; or in about longitude 104 degrees West of London, 29 degrees west of Philadelphia, 11 12 degrees west of the mouth of the Missouri, and nearly 20 degrees east of the mouth of the columbia. This will still shew the great errors of those maps of Louisiana, which place the Mandan villages 20 degrees west of the longitude of the confluence of the Missºuri and Mississippi; and less than 12 degrees east of that of the mouth of the Columbia. - JOURNAL. 257 - - - embarked early, and proceeded on till about 11 o'clock, when we arrived at Pleasant camp, and halt- ed. We left this camp on the 18th September 1804. The Commanding Officers wishing to procure and take down with them the skeletons of some mule deer, and cabre; and knowing that there were but few of those animals lower down the river, continued here the remainder of the day, and sent out six or eight hunters; who returned at night without finding any of the wished for animals, but killed some fat buffaloe and common deer. Friday 29th. The smorning was cloudy and some hunters went on ahead very early ; while weamused ourselves till 10 º’clock gathering plumbs, of which, there is great abundance at this place. We then went on, and passed White river on the south side. The Missouri here is very full of sand bars and shoals, and we find difficulty in getting along. About 2 o'clock we halted to kill some buffaloe, but were unsuccessful, and we proceeded, till evening, and en- camped. - - - Saturday 30th. We had a pleasant morning, and went on early, three hunters starting ahead. We killed some buffaloe and elk in our way, and about 2 o’clock met a band of the Teetons, fifty or sixty in number, and halted on the opposite side of the river as we did not wish to have any intercourse with them. Here we waited for three hunters, who were behind ; and during our stay eight or nine of the Indians swam to a sand bar about sixty yards from us, and we found that they were the same ras- cals, who had given us trouble as we went up. We could not converse with them, but one of our men understanding the language of the Ponis, of which they understood some words; we through him let them know that we wanted to have nothing to do with them ; and that if they troubled us, we would kill every one of them. They then withdrew, and - - Y 2 ass journal. - - the whole party left the river and went off to the hills. Our three hunters returned, and we proceeded on, and in the evening encamped on a sand bar in the river. Sunday 31st. There was a cloudy morning, after a disagreeable night of wind and hard rain. We set out early ; went on very well all day, and in the even- ing encamped, where we found the Musketoes very troublesome. , Monday 1st Sºft. 1806. This was a fine pleasant day and we set out early, and about 10 o’clock met nine of the Yonktin band of the Sioux nation of In- dians on the south side of the river. We halted and gave them some corn, and then proceeded on with an unfavourable wind. At night we arrived at out encampment of the 31st of August 1804, where we held a treaty with a band of the Sioux nation, and en- camped for the night. Tuesday 2nd. We had a fine morning, but high wind; set out early, and went on till noon, when we halted, and some men went out and killed two fine fat - - - buffaloe cows; and brought in the best of the meat. The musketoes are very troublesome. We again started and went on about two miles, when the wind blew so violent that we had to encamp for the night, on a large sand bar, where the musketoes are not se bad, as where there are woods or bushes. Wednesday 3rd. In a pleasant morning we got early under way, and went very well all day. A- bout 5 o'cloak in the afternoon, we met a Mr. Aird, a trader, who was going up the Missouri, and we en- camped with him. At sunset a violent gust of wind and rain, with thunder and lightning came on and lasted two hours. Thursday 4th. There was a cloudy morning. We exchanged some corn with Mr. Aird for tobaccº, which our party stood much in need of; and his party, having lost a boat load of provisions in their JOURNAL. 25.9 - way up, wanted the corn. We then proceeded on till we came to our old camp near the Maha village, where we halted to dry our baggage, which got very wet last night, and remained all night. The natives are all out in the plains. Friday 5th. This was a fine morning, and we early embarked, and went on very well, till night, when we encamped on a sand bar, where the mus- ketoes were very troublesome. Saturday 6th. We set out early, in a fine morn- ing, saw a number of pelicans, and about 8 o’clock a gang of elk, when some hunters went out but re- turned without killing any. At 11 o'clock we met a barge belonging to a Mr. Shotto, of St. Louis, loaded with merchandize, for the purpose of tra- ding with the Sioux nation of Indians. We got some spirituous liquors from this party the first we had tasted since the 4th of July 1805, and remained with them about three hours ; sent some hunters a head and proceeded on till about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we halted and waited for the hun- ters at the place agreed on to meet them, but they did not come in and we encamped for the night. Sunday 7th. We had a pleasant morning. The hunters not having come in we left a canoe, with directions to wait till 12 o'clock for them; and pro- seeded on. About 9 o'clock we met with our hun- ters, but they had not killed any thing; and at 11 halted to hunt and wait for the canoe. In a short time we killed three elk and brought in the meat; and the canoe having come up we proceeded on, and at sunset encamped. The musquitoes are not so troublesome as they were some time ago. Monday 8th. We again had a pleasant morning; and proceeded on early ; at 10 o’clock we passed council bluffs where we held the first council with the Ottos on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of August 1804, - and in the evening encamped on a small island, ha- wing gone on very well during the day. 60 journal. Tuesday 9th. We embarked early and in a short time passed the mouth of the great river Platte; went on very well all day, and at night encamped on a sand beach opposite the Bald-pated prairie. Wednesday 10th. We had a pleasant morning, embarked early and went on very well. At 4 o’clock P. M. we met a periogue with four men, going to trade with the Loups or Wolf Indians, who live up the river Platte. We remained with these men a- bout an hour, got some whisky from them, and then continued our voyage. In a short time we met another periogue and seven men, going to trade with the Mahas, who live on the Missouri. We staid some time with these men, then proceeded and at night encamped on a willow island. Thursday 11th. We set out early ; and had a cloudy morning, and light showers of rain during the forenoon. At two in the afternoon we stopped to hunt, and soon killed two deer and a turkey : then proceeded on and at sunset encamped on an island. Friday 12th. The morning was fine and we again embarked early. In half an hour we met two periogues going up to trade; staid with them a short time and went on. About an hour after we met with a Mr. M'Clelland in a large boat with twelve men going up to trade with the Mahas. Our com- manding officers were acquainted with Mr. M'Clel- land, and we halted and remained with him all day, in order to get some satisfactory information from him, after our long absence from the United States. He, and two Frenchmen who were with him had severally instructions from the government to make inquiry after our party; as they were beginning to be uneasy about us. Saturday 13th We had a pleasant morning af- ter some rain that fell yesterday, and again proceed- ed on early with unfavourable wind. At 10 we hai- ted to hunt, staid about three hours and killed four - - JOURNAL. 26.1 deer. We then continued our voyage to sunset and encamped. We had a few musketoes, but they were not so bad as we had found them higher up the river. - Sunday 14th. In a fine morning we proceeded on early and went very well, until 3 o'clock when we met three large batteaux loaded with merchandize, - going up to different nations of Indians for the pur- pose of trade. The people in them were very glad to seeus, and gave us some whiskey, pork, and biscuit. We remained with them two hours and again went on. We killed five deer on the bank to day as we floated down ; and saw a fine young horse. At sun- set we encamped on a small island. Monday 15th. The morning was pleasant and we embarked early. In a short time we killed a fine large elk ; at 11 o’clock passed the Kanzon river, and encamped at sunset. Tuesday 16th. This was another pleasant day. We proceeded on early, and at 9’clock met a large periogue with eight men, going to trade with the Ponis nation of Indians on the river Platte about seventy or eighty miles from its mouth. At 11 we met a batteaux and two canoes going up to the Kano- was nation, who live on a river of the same name. We halted with them a while, then proceeded on, and at sunset encamped on an island. Wednesday 17th. We went on early and had a pleasant day, but very warm. One of our party last night caught a large catfish, supposed to weigh 100 pounds. We got a great many papaws on our way to day: a kind of fruit in great abundance on the Missouri from the river Platte to its mouth ; and also down the Mississippi. About 11 o'clock we pas- sed through a bad part of the river, where it was so filled with sawyers that we could hardly find room to pass through safe. About two in the afternoon we met a large keel-boat, commanded by a Captain 262 JOURNAL. M“Clanen, loaded with merchandize and bound to the Spanish country by the way of the river Platte. He intended to go by land across the mountain, and get the Spaniards to bring their gold and silver on this side, where he could take his goods and trade with them. He had fifteen hands, an interpreter and a black. He intends to discharge his men on this side of the mountain, and to get some of the Ponis, who live on the river Platte to accompany him to the Spanish country. Mr. M'Clanen gave all our party as much whiskey as they could drink, and a bag of biscuit. Some of the men were sent on ahead in two small canoes to hunt, and we encam- ped here for the night. Thursday 18th. We gave Mr. M'Clanen a keg of corn; took our leave of him and proceeded on. ºn a short time, passed the mouth of the river Grand, and soon after overtook the hunters, who had not killed any thing. We continued our voyage all day without waiting to hunt; gathering some papaws on the shores, and in the evening encamped on an island. The 19th, was a fine day, and at day light we continued our voyage ; passed the mouth of Mine river; Saw several turkeys on the shores, but did not delay a moment to hunt: being so anxious to reach St. Louis, where, without any important oc- gurrence, we arrived on the 23rd and were received with great kindness and marks of friendship by the inhabitants, after an absence of two years, four months and ten days. FIVIS, C- ſº - Ga $8, º G-a- - - - - - - - - - (~~~ - - - - - - - - - -- - -