T
33
3

ARTES
1837
SCIENTIA
VERITAS
LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
PLURIBUS UNUM
TUED
QUAERIS PENINSULAM AMOENAM\"
CIRCUMSPICE

H Edridge del
LIBRAR
OF THE
SITY OF M
MICHIGA
MM. Park
Publicid daril à 1700 by G. Nicol Pall Mall.
O
T. Dickinson foulp
TRAVELS
960
کے
34
IN THE
INTERIOR DISTRICTS OF AFRICA:
PERFORMED UNDER THE
DIRECTION AND PATRONAGE
OF THE
AFRICAN ASSOCIATION,
IN THE
YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797.
By MUNGO PARK, SURGEon.
egens Libyæ deserta peragro. Virg.
FOURTH EDITION.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND-ROW,
ST. JAMES'S, FOR THE AUTHOR;
AND SOLD BY G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS
TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.
1800.
TO THE
NOBLEMEN AND GENTLEMEN,
ASSOCIATED FOR THE PURPOSE OF EXPLORING
THE
INTERIOR REGIONS OF AFRICA,
THIS
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS
ON THAT CONTINENT,
PERFORMED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE,
IS,
WITH ALL HUMILITY,
INSCRIBED,
BY THEIR FAITHFUL
AND OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT,
April 10th, 1799.
a
MUNGO PARK.
$
PREFACE.
THE
HE following Journal, drawn up
from original
minutes and notices made at the proper moment
and preserved with great difficulty, is now offer-
ed to the Public by the direction of my noble
and honourable employers, the Members of the
African Association. I regret that it is so little
commensurate to the patronage I have received.
As a composition, it has nothing to recommend
it, but truth. It is a plain, unvarnished tale;
without pretensions of any kind, except that it
claims to enlarge, in some degree, the circle of
African geography. For this purpose, my ser-
vices were offered, and accepted by the Associa
tion; and, I trust, I have not laboured altogether
in vain. The work, however, must speak for
itself; and I should not have thought any pre-
liminary observations necessary, if I did not
consider myself called upon, both by justice and
gratitude, to offer those which follow.
a 2
viii
PREFACE.
Immediately after my return from Africa, the
acting Committee of the Association,* taking
notice of the time it would require to prepare an
account in detail, as it now appears; and being
desirous of gratifying, as speedily as possible,
the curiosity which many of the Members were
pleased to express concerning my discoveries,
determined that an epitome, or abridgment of my
travels, should be forthwith prepared from such
materials and oral communications as I could
furnish, and printed for the use of the Associa-
tion; and also, that an engraved Map of my
route should accompany it. A memoir, thus
supplied and improved, was accordingly drawn
up
in two parts, by Members of the Association,
and distributed among the Society: the first, con-
sisting of a narrative, in abstract, of my travels,
* This Committee consists of the following Noble-
men and Gentlemen; Earl of Moira, Lord Bishop of
Landaff, Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, President of the
Royal Society; Andrew Stewart, Esq. F. R. S. and
Bryan Edwards, Esq. F. R. S. Concerning the original
institution of the Society itself, and the progress of dis-
covery, previous to my expedition, the fullest informa-
tion has already been given in the various publications
which the Society have caused to be inade.
PREFACE.
ix
by Bryan Edwards; Esq.; the second, of Geo-
graphical Illustrations of my progress, by Major
James Rennell, F. R. S. Major Rennell was
pleased also to add a Map of my route, con-
structed in conformity to my own observations
and sketches, freed from those errors, which the
Major's superior knowledge, and distinguished
accuracy in geographical researches, enabled him
to discover and correct.
Availing myself therefore, on the present
occasion, of assistance like this, it is impossible
that I can present myself before the Public, with-
out expressing how deeply and gratefully sensible
I am of the honour and advantage which I derive
from the labours of those Gentlemen; for Mr.
Edwards has kindly permitted me to incorporate,
as occasion offered, the whole of his narrative
into different parts of my work; and Major
Rennell, with equal good will, allows me to
embellish and elucidate my Travels, with the
Map beforementioned.
Thus aided and encouraged, I should deliver
this volume to the world, with that confidence of
a favourable reception, which no merits of my
X
PREFACE.
1
own could authorize me to claim; were I not
apprehensive that expectations have been formed
by some of my subscribers, of discoveries to be
unfolded, which I have not made, and of won-
ders to be related, of which I am utterly ignorant.
There is danger that those who feel a disappoint-
ment of this nature, finding less to astonish and
amuse in my book, than they had promised to
themselves beforehand, will not even allow me
the little merit which I really possess. Painful
as this circumstance may prove to my feelings,
I shall console myself under it, if the distin-
guished persons, under whose auspices I entered
on my mission, shall allow that I have executed
the duties of it to their satisfaction; and that they
consider the Journal, which I have now the honour
to present to them, to be, what I have endeavour-
ed to make it, an honest and faithful report of my
proceedings and observations in their service,
from the outset of my journey to its termination.
M. P.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Author's Motives for undertaking the Voyage-his
Instructions and Departure-arrives at Fillifree, on
the Gambia River-proceeds to Vintain.-Some Account
of the Feloops.-Proceeds up the River for Jonkakonda
-arrives at Dr Laidley's.-Some Account of Pisania,
and the British Factory established at that Place.—The
Author's Employment during his Stay at Pisania-bis
Sickness and Recovery-the Country described—prepares
to set out for the Interior
CHAPTER II.
page I
Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and
Mandingoes.-Some Account of the Trade between the
Nations of Europe and the Natives of Africa by the Way
of the Gambia, and between the Native Inhabitants of
the Coast and the Nations of the interior Countries-
their Mode of selling and buying, &c.
CHAPTER III.
21
The Author sets out from Pisania-bis Attendants-reaches
Findey.-Story related by a Mandingo Negro.-Pro-
ceeds to Medina, the Capital of Woolli.-Interview with
the King.-Saphies or Charms.-Proceeds to Kolor.-
Description of Mumbo Jumbo-arrives at Koojar-
wrestling Match.-Crosses the Wilderness, and arrives
at Tallika, in the Kingdom of Bondou.
p. 42
$
xii
CONTENTS.
J
CHAPTER IV.
Some Account of the Inhabitants of Tallika.-The Author
proceeds for Fatteconda-Incidents on the Road.-Crosses
the Neriko, arrives at Koorkarany-reaches the River
Falemé-Fishery on that River-proceeds along its Bank
to Naye or Nayemow-crosses the Falemé and arrives
at Fatteconda.-Has an Interview with Almami, the
Sovereign of Bondou.-Description of the King's Dwel-
ling-has a second Interview with the King, who begs
the Author's Coat.-Author visits the King's Wives-
is permitted to depart on friendly Terms.-Journey by
Night-arrives at Foag.-Some Account of Bondou and
p. 67
its Inhabitants the Foulabs.
CHAPTER V.
Account of Kajaaga.-Serawoollies-their Manners and
Language.-Account of Joag.-The Author is ill treated,
and robbed of half of his Effects, by Order of Batcheri,
the King.-Charity of a female Slave.-The Author is
visited by Demba Sego, Nephew of the King of Kasson,
who offers to conduct him in safety to that Kingdom.-
Offer accepted.-The Author and his Protector, with a
numerous Reținue, set out and reach Samee, on the Banks
of the Senegal.-Proceed to Kayee, and crossing the Se-
negal, arrive in the Kingdom of Kasson.
p. 93
CHAPTER VI.
Arrival at Teesee.-Interview with Tiggity Sego, the
King's Brother—the Author's detention at Teesee-some
Account of that Place and its Inhabitants-Incidents
which occurred there.-Rapacious Conduct of Tiggity
Sego towards the Author on his Departure.—Sets out for
Kooniakary, the Capital of the Kingdom.-Incidents on
the Road, and Arrival at Kooniakary.
p. IIa
CONTENTS.
xiii
CHAPTER VII.
The Author admitted to an Audience of the King of Kasson,
whom he finds well disposed towards him.-Incidents
during the Author's Stay at Kooniakary.- Departs thence
for Kemmoo, the Capital of Kaarta.-Is received with
great Kindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades
him from prosecuting his Journey, on Account of approach-
ing Hostilities with the King of Bambarra.-The Author
determines, notwithstanding, to proceed; and the usual
Routes being obstructed, takes the Path to Ludamar, a
Moorish Kingdom.-Is accommodated by the King with
a Guide to Farra, the frontier Town of the Moorish
Territories; and sets out for that Place, accompanied by
three of the King's Sons, and 200 Horsemen.
CHAPTER VIII.
p. 127
Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy.-Some Account of
the Lotus.-A Youth murdered by the Moors-interest-
ing Scene at his Death.-Author passes through Simbing.
-Some Particulars concerning Major Houghton.-
Author reaches Farra-Situation of the surrounding
States at the Period of his Arrival there, and a brief
Account of the War between Kaarta and Bambarra.
P. 147
CHAPTER IX.
Some Account of Jarra, and the Moorish Inhabitants.--
The Author applies for, and obtains Permission from Åli,
the Moorish Chief or Sovereign of Ludamar, to pass
through his Territories.-Departs from Farra, and
arrives at Deena-ill treated by the Moors.-Proceeds
to Sampaka—finds a Negro who makes Gunpowder.-
Continues his Journey to Samee, where he is seized by
some Moors who are sent for that Purpose by Ali-Is
xiv
CONTENTS.
conveyed a Prisoner to the Moorish Camp at Benowm,
on the Borders of the Great Desert.
CHAPTER X.
page 167
Various Occurrences during the Author's Confinement at
Benowm-is visited by some Moorish Ladies.-A Fune-
ral and Wedding.-The Author receives an extraordi-
nary Present from the Bride.-Other Circumstances
illustrative of the Moorish Character and Manners.
}
CHAPTER XI.
P. 190
Occurrences at the Camp continued.—Information collected
by the Author concerning Houssa and Tombuctoo; and
the Situation of the latter.-The Route described from
Morocco to Benowm. The Author's Distress from
Hunger.-Ali removes his Camp to the Northward.—
The Author is carried Prisoner to the new Encampment,
and is presented to Queen Fatima.-Great Distress
from the Want of Water.
P. 207
CHAPTER XII.
Containing some further miscellaneous Reflections on the
Moorish Character and Manners.-Observations con-
cerning the Great Desert, its Animals, wild and domes-
tic, &c. &c.
p. 224
CHAPTER XIII.
Ali departs for Jarra, and the Author allowed to follow
him thither. The Author's faithful Servant, Demba,
is seized by Ali's Order, and sent back into Slavery.-Ali
returns to his Camp, and permits the Author to remain
at Farra, who, thenceforward, meditates his Escape.
-Daisy King of Kaarta, approaching with his Army
CONTENTS.
XV
towards Farra, the Inhabitants quit the town, and the
Author accompanies them in their Flight.-A Party of
Moors overtake him at Queira.-He gets away from
them at Daybreak:-is again pursued by another Party,
and robbed; but finally effects his Escape. p. 242
CHAPTER XIV.
The Author feels great Joy at his Deliverance, and pro-
ceeds through the Wilderness, E. S. E.; but finds his
Situation very deplorable.—Suffers greatly from Thirst,
and faints on the Sand-recovers, and makes another
Effort to push forward.—Is providentially relieved by a
Fall of Rain.-Arrives at a Foulah Village, where he is
refused Relief by the Dooty; but obtains Food from a poor
Woman.-Continues his Journey through the Wilder-
ness, and the next Day lights on another Foulah Village,
where he is hospitably received by one of the Shepherds.
-Arrives on the third Day at a Negro Town called
Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra.
CHAPTER XV.
p. 263
The Author proceeds to Wassiboo-is joined by some fugi-
tive Kaartans, who accompany him in his Route through
Bambarra.-Discovers the Niger.-Some Account of
Sego, the Capital of Bambarra.—Mansong, the King,
refuses to see the Author, but sends him a Present.-
Great Hospitality of a Negro Woman.
CHAPTER XVI.
P. 277
Departure from Sego, and Arrival at Kabba.—Description
of the Shea, or vegetable Butter Tree.-The Author
and his Guide arrive at Sansanding.-Behaviour of the
Moors at that Place.-The Author pursues his Journey
to the Eastward.-Incidents on the Road.-Arrives at
xiv
CONTENTS.
Modiboo, and proceeds for Kea; but obliged to leave his
Horse by the Way.-Embarks at Kea in a Fisherman's
Canoe for Moorzan; is conveyed from thence across the
Niger to Silla.-Determines to proceed no further East-
ward.-Some Account of the further Course of the Niger,
and the Towns in its Vicinage, towards the East. p. 300
CHAPTER XVII.
The Author returns Westward-arrives at Modiboo, and
recovers his Horse-finds great Difficulty in travelling,
in consequence of the Rains, and the overflowing of the
River;-is informed that the King of Bambarra had
sent Persons to apprehend him :-avoids Sego, and pro-
secutes his fourney along the Banks of the Niger.-In-
cidents on the Road.-Cruelties attendant on African
Wars.-The Author crosses the River Frina, and ar-
rives at Taffara.
p. 325
CHAPTER XVIII.
Inhospitable Reception at Taffara.-A Negro Funeral at
Sooba.-The Author continues his route through several
Villages along the Banks of the Niger, until he comes to
Koolikorro.-Supports himself by writing Saphies-
reaches Maraboo-loses the Road; and after many dif-
ficulties arrives at Bammakoo.-Takes the Road for
Sibidooloo-meets with great Kindness at a Village called
Kooma;-is afterwards robbed, stripped, and plundered
by Banditti.-The Author's Resource and Consolation
under exquisite Distrese.-He arrives in Safety at
Sibidooloo.
P. 347
CHAPTER XIX.
Government of Manding.-The Author's Reception by the
Mansa, or chief Man of Sibidooloo, who takes Measures
for the Recovery of his Horse and Effects.-The Author
CONTENTS.
xvii
removes to Wanda;-great Scarcity, and its afflicting
Consequences.-The Author recovers his Horse and
Clothes-presents his Horse to the Mansa; and prosecutes
his Journey to Kamalia-some Account of that Town.-
The Author's kind Reception by Karfa Taura, a Slatee,
who proposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry Season,
with a Caravan of Slaves.-The Author's Sickness, and
Determination to remain and accompany Karfa. p. 365
CHAPTER XX.
Of the Climate and Seasons.-Winds.-Vegetable Pro-
ductions.-Population.-General Observations on the
Character and Disposition of the Mandingoes; and a
summary Account of their Manners and Habits of Life,
their Marriages, &c.
p. 385
CHAPTER XXI.
The Account of the Mandingoes continued.--Their Notions
in respect of the Planetary Bodies, and the Figure of the
Earth. Their religious Opinions, and Belief in a Fu-
ture State.-Their Diseases and Methods of Treatment.
-Their Funeral Ceremonies, Amusements, Occupations,
Diet, Arts, Manufactures, &c.
p. 405
CHAPTER XXII.
Observations concerning the State and Sources of Slavery
in Africa.
CHAPTER XXIII.
p. 428
Of Gold-dust, and the Manner in which it is collected.-
Process of washing it.—Its Value in Africa.—Of Ivory.
-Surprise of the Negroes at the Eagerness of the Euro-
peans for this Commodity.-Scattered Teeth frequently
picked up in the Woods.-Mode of Hunting the Elephant.
xviii
CONTENTS.
-Some Reflections on the unimproved Sate of the Coun-
try, &c.
P. 445
CHAPTER XXIV.
Transactions at Kamalia resumed.-Arabic MSS. in Use
among the Mahomedan Negroes.-Reflections concerning
the Conversion and Education of the Negro Children.-
Return of the Author's Benefactor, Karfa.-Further
Account of the Purchase and Treatment of Slaves.-Fast
of Rhamadan, how observed by the Negroes.-Author's
Anxiety for the Day of Departure.-The Caravan sets
out-Account of it on its Departure, and Proceedings on
the Road, until its Arrival at Kinytakooro.
CHAPTER XXV.
P. 466
The Coffle crosses the Fallonka Wilderness.-Miserable
Fate of one of the female Slaves;-arrives at Sooseeta;
-proceeds to Manna.-Some Account of the Jalonkas.--
Crosses the main Stream of the Senegal.-Bridge of a
singular Construction.-Arrives at Malacotta.-Re-
markable Conduct of the King of the Faloffs.
CHAPTER XXVI.
p. 490
The Caravan proceeds to Konkodoo, and crosses the Falemé
River.-Its Arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, and Tam-
bacunda.-Incidents on the Road.-A matrimonial Case.
-The Caravan proceeds through many Towns and Vil-
lages, and arrives at length on the Banks of the Gambia.
-Passes through Medina, the Capital of Woolli, and
finally stops at Findey.-The Author, accompanied by
Karfa, proceeds to Pisania-Various Occurrences pre-
vious to his Departure from Africa,—takes his Passage
in an American Ship.-Short Account of his Voyage to
Great Britain by the Way of the West Indies. p. 514
The following AFRICAN WORDS, recurring very
frequently in the course of the Narrative, it is
thought necessary to prefix an Explanation of
them for the Reader's convenience.
Mansa. A king or chief governor.
Alkaid. The head magistrate of a town or province,
whose office is commonly hereditary.
Dooty. Another name for the chief magistrate of a town
or province: this word is used only in the interior
countries.
Palaver. A court of justice; a public meeting of any
kind.
Bushreen. A mussulman.
Kafir. A Pagan native; an unbeliever.
Sonakee. Another term for an unconverted native; it
signifies one who drinks strong liquors, and is used
by way of reproach.
Slatees. Free black merchants, who trade chiefly in
slaves.
Coffle or Cafila. A caravan of slaves, or a company of
people travelling with any kind of merchandize.
Bar. Nominal money: a single bar is equal in value
to two shillings sterling, or thereabouts.
Minkalli. A quantity of gold, nearly equal in value to
ten shillings sterling.
Kowries. Small shells, which pass for money in the
Interior.
Korree. A watering-place, where shepherds keep their
cattle.
XX
EXPLANATION OF AFRICAN WORDS.
Bentang.. A sort of stage, erected in every town, an-
swering the purpose of a town hall.
Baloon. A room in which strangers are commonly
lodged.
Soofroo. A skin for containing water.
Saphie. An amulet or charm.
Kouskous. A dish prepared from boiled corn.
Shea-toulou. Vegetable butter.
Calabash. A species of gourd, of which the Negroes
make bowls and dishes.
Paddle. A sort of hoe used in husbandry.
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100
71
12
13
17
16
17
16
15
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Kanan
Buxar
I.St Louis
Mouth of the Senegal
Bieurt
15
Cape
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Whirlpool
Portudal or Sali
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or
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The distance
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414
Gambia River
is about 4 days Journey
Cacheo R.
Warang
Bissao I.
Sorcerers I
Boolam
Bissagos
& Shoals
Islands
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Ghinala
River Nunez
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the R. Grande
FOULAHS
13
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17
16
15
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Tambaoura
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Tifsheet Saft Mine
6
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JINBALA GUINBALA
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Extent of the Mandinga
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B
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Silla, End of M! Park's Expedition
Modibo
A
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MANTANA:
Canibals.
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MANDING
Bola
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Kenytakooro
Village
3
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Head
J
A L
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of the
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Mandinga Town
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of
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intains
Kaniaba
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Bammakoo
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​222
Kankaru
Joliba River
or
Niger
ASSE 1
Head of
the Niger
extends along
Tenya
Kooro
D
GUINEA
TEEMBOO
6
8
9
Rennell 5 April 1798.
10
Published according to Act of Parliam
K
O
Mountains seen by M. Park
N
G
Parallels
these
The blue line shews
the common boundary of
the Moors and Negroes
The double line of dots, coloured Red, shews M Parks Route.
The Track out has a continued Red line: homeward, a broken line.
AA MT Park's intended route from Kooniakary;
BB from Kemmoo; in both of which he was disappointed.
CCCC Routes reported to M Park.
DD Route of Mefs's Walt & Winterbottom.
*Places whose Latitudes were taken.
4
3
2
14
BAEDOO
The ROUTE
of MR MUNGO PARK,
from Pisania on the River Gambia,
to Silla,on the River Joliba,or Niger;
With his return by the Southern Route,
to Pisania.
Compiled from MPark's Observations,
Notes, & Sketches,
By J.Rennell.
10
20
30
40
50 60
12
IL
50
80
70
Geographic Miles
200
British Miles
90
700
200
4
5
6
8
10
Days Tournies
10
J.Walker Sculp
0
2
2
15
TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
The Author's Motives for undertaking the
Voyage-bis Instructions and Departure-
arrives at Fillifree, on the Gambia River
-proceeds to Vintain.-Some Account of
the Feloops.-Proceeds up the River for
Jonkakonda-arrives at Dr. Laidley's.-
Some Account of Pisania, and the British
Factory established at that Place.-The
Author's Employment during his Stay at
Pisania-bis Sickness and Recovery-the
Country described-prepares to set out for
the Interior.
Soon after my return from the East Indies
in 1793, having learnt that the Noblemen
and Gentlemen, associated for the purpose
of prosecuting Discoveries in the Interior of
Africa, were desirous of engaging a person
B
Q
TRAVELS IN THE
}
+
to explore that continent, by the way of the
Gambia river, I took occasion, through
means of the President of the Royal Society,
to whom I had the honour to be known, of
offering myself for that service. I had been
informed, that a gentleman of the name
of Houghton, a Captain in the army, and
formerly Fort-Major at Goree, had already
sailed to the Gambia, under the direction
of the Association, and that there was
reason to apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice
to the climate, or perished in some contest
with the natives; but this intelligence,
instead of deterring me from my purpose,
animated me to persist in the offer of my
services with the greater solicitude. I had
a passionate desire to examine into the pro-
ductions of a country so little known; and
to become experimentally acquainted with
the modes of life, and character of the
natives. I knew that I was able to bear
fatigue; and I relied on my youth, and the
strength of my constitution, to preserve me
from the effects of the climate. The salary
which the Committee allowed was suffi-
ciently large, and I made no stipulation
for future reward. If I should perish in
m
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
3
my journey, I was willing that my hopes
and expectations should perish with me;
and if I should succeed in rendering the
geography of Africa more familiar to my
countrymen, and in opening to their am-
bition and industry new sources of wealth,
and new channels of commerce, I knew that
I was in the hands of men of honour, who
would not fail to bestow that remuneration
which my successful services should appear
to them to merit. The Committee of the
Association, having made such inquiries as
they thought necessary, declared themselves
satisfied with the qualifications that I pos-
sessed, and accepted me for the service;
and with that liberality which on all oc-
casions distinguishes their conduct, gave me
every encouragement which it was in their
power to grant, or which I could with pro-
priety ask.
It was at first proposed that I should ac-
company Mr. James Willis, who was then re-
cently appointed Consul at Senegambia, and
whose countenance in that capacity it was
thought might have served and protected
me; but Government afterwards rescinded
his appointment, and I lost that advantage.
B 2
4
TRAVELS IN THE
The kindness of the Committee, however,
supplied all that was necessary. Being
favoured by the Secretary of the Association,
the late Henry Beaufoy, Esq. with a recom-
mendation to Dr. John Laidley (a gentle-
man who had resided many years at an
English factory on the banks of the Gambia),
and furnished with a letter of credit on him
for £200, I took my passage in the brig
Endeavour, a small vessel trading to the
Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, com-
manded by Captain Richard Wyatt, and I
became impatient for my departure.
My instructions were very plain and con-
cise. I was directed, on my arrival in
Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger,
either by the way of Bambouk, or by such
other route as should be found most con-
venient. That I should ascertain the course,
and, if possible, the rise and termination of
that river. That I should use my utmost
exertions to visit the principal towns or cities
in its neighbourhood, particularly Tom-
buctoo and Houssa; and that I should be
afterwards at liberty to return to Europe,
either by the way of the Gambia, or by such
other route, as, under all the then existing
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
5
circumstances of my situation and prospects,
should appear to me to be most advisable."
We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22d
day of May, 1795. On the 4th of June, we
saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the
coast of Africa; and on the 21st of the same
month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty
days, we anchored at Jillifree, a town on
the northern bank of the river Gambia, op-
posite to James's Island, where the English
had formerly a small fort.
The kingdom of Barra, in which the town
of Jillifree is situated, produces great plenty
of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade
of the inhabitants is in salt; which com-
modity they carry up the river in canoes as
high as Barraconda, and bring down in
return Indian corn, cotton cloths, elephant's
teeth, small quantities of gold dust, &c.
The number of canoes and people constantly
employed in this trade, make the King of
Barra more formidable to Europeans than
any other chieftian on the river; and this
circumstance probably encouraged him to
establish those exorbitant duties, which
traders of all nations are obliged to pay at
entry, amounting to nearly £20, on every
6
TRAVELS IN THE
vessel, great and small. These duties, or
customs, are generally collected in person
by the Alkaid, or Governor of Jillifree, and
he is attended on these occasions by a
numerous train of dependants, among whom
are found many who, by their frequent in-
tercourse with the English, have acquired a
smattering of our language; but they are
commonly very noisy, and very trouble-
some; begging for every thing they fancy
with such earnestness and importunity, that
traders, in order to get quit of them, are
frequently obliged to grant their requests.
On the 23d we departed from Jillifree,
and proceeded to Vintain, a town situated
about two miles up a creek on the southern
side of the river. This place is much re-
sorted to by Europeans, on account of the
great quantities of bees-wax which are
brought hither for sale: the wax is col-
lected in the woods by the Feloops, a wild
and unsociable race of people; their country,
which is of considerable extent, abounds in
rice; and the natives supply the traders,
both on the Gambia, and Cassamansa rivers,
with that article, and also with goats and
poultry, on very reasonable terms. The
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
7
honey which they collect is chiefly used by
themselves in making a strong intoxicating
liquor, much the same as the mead which
is produced from honey in Great Britain.
In their traffic with Europeans, the
Feloops generally employ a factor, or agent,
of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little
English, and is acquainted with the trade of
the river. This broker makes the bargain;
and, with the connivance of the European,
receives a certain part only of the payment;
which he gives to his employer as the whole;
the remainder (which is very truly called
the cheating money) he receives when the
Feloop is gone, and appropriates to him-
self, as a reward for his trouble.
The language of the Feloops is appro-
priate and peculiar; and as their trade is
chiefly conducted, as hath been observed,
by Mandingoes, the Europeans have no in-
ducement to learn it. The numerals are as
follow;
One
Enory.
Two
Sickaba, or Cookaba,
Three
Sisajee.
Four
Sibakeer.
8
TRAVELS IN THE
Footuck.
Footuck-Enory.
Five
Six
Seven
Eight
Nine
Ten
| | | | |
Footuck-Cookaba.
Footuck-Sisajee.
Footuck-Sibakeer.
Sibankonyen.
On the 26th we left Vintain, and con-
tinued our course up the river, anchoring
whenever the tide failed us, and frequently
towing the vessel with the boat. The river
is deep and muddy; the banks are covered
with impenetrable thickets of mangrove;
and the whole of the adjacent country ap-
pears to be flat and swampy.
The Gambia abounds with fish, some
species of which are excellent food; but
none of them that I recollect are known in
Europe. At the entrance from the sea,
sharks are found in great abundance; and
higher up, alligators, and the hippopotamus
(or river horse) are very numerous. The
latter might with more propriety be called
the river-elephant, being of an enormous
and unwieldy bulk, and his teeth furnish
good ivory. This animal is amphibious, with
short and thick legs, and cloven hoofs; it
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
9
feeds on grass, and such shrubs as the banks
of the river afford, boughs of trees, &c.
seldom venturing far from the water, in
which it seeks refuge on hearing the ap-
proach of man. I have seen many, and
always found them of a timid and inof-
fensive disposition.
In six days after leaving Vintain, we
reached Jonkakonda, a place of considerable
trade, where our vessel was to take in part
of her lading. The next morning, the
several European traders came from their
different factories to receive their letters,
and learn the nature and amount of the
cargo; and the Captain dispatched a mes-
senger to Dr. Laidley to inform him of my
arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morn-
ing following, when I delivered him Mr.
Beaufoy's letter, and he gave me a kind
invitation to spend my time at his house
until an opportunity should offer of pro-
secuting my journey. This invitation was
too acceptable to be refused, and being
furnished by the Doctor with a horse and
guide, I set out from Jonkakonda at day-
break on the 5th of July, and at eleven
o'clock arrived at Pisania, where I was
10
TRAVELS IN THE
1
accommodated with a room, and other con-
veniencies in the Doctor's house.
Pisania is a small village in the King of
Yany's dominions, established by British
subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited
solely by them and their black servants. It
is situated on the banks of the Gambia,
sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white
residents, at the time of my arrival there,
consisted only of Dr. Laidley, and two
gentlemen who were brothers, of the name
of Ainsley; but their domestics were nume-
rous. They enjoyed perfect security under
the king's protection, and being highly
esteemed and respected by the natives at
large, wanted no accommodation or com-
fort which the country could supply; and
the greatest part of the trade in slaves,
ivory, and gold, was in their hands.
Being now settled for some time at my
ease, my first object was to learn the Man-
dingo tongue, being the language in almost
general use throughout this part of Africa;
and without which I was fully convinced
that I never could acquire an extensive
knowledge of the country or its inhabitants.
In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
11
Dr. Laidley, who, by a long residence in
the country, and constant intercourse with
the natives, had made himself completely
master of it. Next to the language, my
great object was to collect information con-
cerning the countries I intended to visit.
On this occasion I was referred to certain
traders called Slatees. These are free black
merchants, of great consideration in this
part of Africa, who come down from the
interior countries, chiefly with enslaved
Negroes for sale; but I soon discovered
that very little dependance could be placed
on the accounts which they gave; for they
contradicted each other in the most im-
portant particulars, and all of them seemed
extremely unwilling that I should prosecute
my journey. These circumstances increased
my anxiety to ascertain the truth from my
own personal observations.
In researches of this kind, and in observ-
ing the manners and customs of the natives,
in a country so little known to the nations
of Europe, and furnished with so many
striking and uncommon objects of nature,
my time passed not unpleasantly; and I
began to flatter myself that I had escaped
12
TRAVELS IN THE
the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans,
on their first arrival in hot climates, are
generally subject. But, on the 31st of July,
I imprudently exposed myself to the night
dew, in observing an eclipse of the moon,
with a view to determine the longitude of
the place the next day I found myself
attacked with a smart fever and delirium ;
and such an illness followed, as confined
me to the house during the greatest part of
August. My recovery was very slow but
I embraced every short interval of conva-
lescence to walk out, and make myself
acquainted with the productions of the
country. In one of those excursions, having
rambled farther than usual, in a hot day, I
brought on a return of my fever, and on
the 10th of September I was again confined
to my bed. The fever, however, was not so
violent as before; and in the course of
three weeks I was able, when the weather
would permit, to renew my botanical ex-
cursions; and when it rained, I amused
myself with drawing plants, &c. in my
chamber. The care and attention of Dr.
Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate my
sufferings; his company and conversation
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
13
beguiled the tedious hours during that
gloomy season, when the rain falls in tor-
rents; when suffocating heats oppress by
day, and when the night is spent by the
terrified traveller in listening to the croak-
ing of frogs, (of which the numbers are
beyond imagination,) the shrill cry of the
jackall, and the deep howling of the hyæna;
a dismal concert, interrupted only by the
roar of such tremendous thunder as no per-
son can form a conception of but those who
have heard it.
The country itself being an immense
level, and very generally covered with
woods, presents a tiresome and gloomy uni-
formity to the eye; but although nature
has denied to the inhabitants the beauties
of romantic landscapes, she has bestowed
on them, with a liberal hand, the more
important blessings of fertility and abun-
dance. A little attention to cultivation
procures a sufficiency of corn; the fields
afford a rich pasturage for cattle; and the
natives are plentifully supplied with excel-
lent fish, both from the Gambia river and
the Walli creek.
The grains which are chiefly cultivated
*
14
TRAVELS IN THE
are Indian corn, (zea mays); two kinds of
bolcus spicatus, called by the natives soono
and sanio; bolcus niger, and bolcus bicolor;
the former of which they have named bassi
woolima, and the latter bassiqui. These,
together with rice, are raised in consi-
derable quantities; besides which, the in-
habitants, in the vicinity of the towns and
villages, have gardens which produce onions,
calavances, yams, cassavi, ground-nuts, pom-
pions, gourds, water melons, and some other
esculent plants.
I observed likewise, near the towns,
small patches of cotton and indigo. The
former of these articles supplies them with
clothing, and with the latter they dye their
cloth of an excellent blue colour, in a man-
ner that will hereafter be described.
In preparing their corn for food, the
natives use a large wooden mortar called a
paloon, in which they bruise the seed until
it parts with the outer covering, or husk,
which is then separated from the clean corn,
by exposing it to the wind; nearly in the
same manner as wheat is cleared from the
chaff in England. The corn thus freed from
the husk, is returned to the mortar, and
}
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
15
རྣ
1
beaten into meal; which is dressed variously
in different countries; but the most com-
mon preparation of it among the nations of
the Gambia, is a sort of pudding, which
they call kouskous. It is made by first
moistening the flour with water, and then
stirring and shaking it about in a large
calabash, or gourd, till it adheres together
in small granules, resembling sago. It is
then put into an earthen pot, whose bottom
is perforated with a number of small holes ;
and this pot being placed upon another,
the two vessels are luted together, either
with a paste of meal and water, or with
cow's dung, and placed upon the fire. In
the lower vessel is commonly some animal
food and water, the steam or vapour of
which ascends through the perforations in
the bottom of the upper vessel, and softens
and prepares the kouskous, which is very
much esteemed throughout all the countries
that I visited. I am informed, that the same
manner of preparing flour, is very generally
used on the Barbary coast, and that the
dish so prepared, is there called by the same
name. It is therefore probable, that the
16
TRAVELS IN THE
Negroes borrowed the practice from the
Moors.
For gratifying a taste for variety, ano-
ther sort of pudding, called nealing, is some-
times prepared from the meal of corn; and
they have also adopted two or three dif-
ferent modes of dressing their rice. Of
vegetable food, therefore, the natives have
no want; and although the common class
of people are but sparingly supplied with
animal food, yet this article is not wholly
withheld from them.
Their domestic animals are nearly the
same as in Europe. Swine are found in the
woods, but their flesh is not esteemed :
probably the marked abhorrence in which
this animal is held by the votaries of Ma-
homet has spread itself among the Pagans.
Poultry of all kinds (the turkey excepted)
is every where to be had. The Guinea fowl
and red partridge, abound in the fields;
and the woods furnish a small species of
antelope, of which the venison is highly
and deservedly prized.
Of the other wild animals in the Man-
dingo countries, the most common are the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
17
hyæna, the panther, and the elephant.
Considering the use that is made of the
latter in the East Indies, it may be thought
extraordinary, that the natives of Africa
have not, in any part of this immense con-
tinent, acquired the skill of taming this
powerful and docile creature, and applying
his strength and faculties to the service of
man. When I told some of the natives that
this was actually done in the countries of
the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn,
and exclaimed, Tobaubo fonnio! (a white
man's lie.) The Negroes frequently find
means to destroy the elephant by fire arms;
they hunt it principally for the sake of the
teeth, which they transfer in barter to those
who sell them again to the Europeans. The
flesh they eat, and consider it as a great
delicacy,
The usual beast of burthen in all the
Negro territories is the ass. The applica-
tion of animal labour to the purposes of
agriculture is no where adopted; the
plough, therefore, is wholly unknown, The
chief implement used in husbandry is the
hoe, which varies in form in different dis-
C
18
TRAVELS IN THE
}
tricts; and the labour is universally per-
formed by slaves.
On the 6th of October the waters of the
Gambia were at the greatest height, being
fifteen feet above the high-water mark of
the tide; after which they began to subside;
at first slowly, but afterwards very rapidly ;
sometimes sinking more than a foot in
twenty-four hours: by the beginning of
November the river had sunk to its former
level, and the tide ebbed and flowed as
usual. When the river had subsided, and
the atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace,
and began to think of my departure; for
this is reckoned the most proper season for
travelling the natives had completed their
harvest, and provisions were every where
cheap and plentiful.
Dr. Laidley was at this time employed
in a trading voyage at Jonkakonda. I wrote
to him to desire that he would use his
interest with the slatees, or slave merchants,
to procure me the company and protection
of the first coffe (or caravan,) that might
leave Gambia for the interior country; and
in the mean time I requested him to pur-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
19
chase for me a horse, and two asses. A few
days afterwards the Doctor returned to
Pisania, and informed me that a coffe
would certainly go for the interior, in the
course of the dry season; but that as many
of the merchants belonging to it had not
yet completed their assortment of goods,
he could not say at what time they would
set out.
As the characters and dispositions of
slatees, and people that composed the cara-
van, were entirely unknown to me, and as
they seemed rather averse to my purpose,
and unwilling to enter into any positive
engagements on my account; and the time
of their departure being withal very uncer-
tain, I resolved on further deliberation, to
avail myself of the dry season, and proceed
without them.
Dr. Laidley approved my determination,
and promised me every assistance in his
power, to enable me to prosecute my jour-
ney with comfort and safety.
This resolution having been formed, I
made preparations accordingly. And now,
being about to take leave of my hospitable
friend, (whose kindness and solicitude con-
C 2
·
20
TRAVELS IN THE
tinued to the moment of my departure,*)
and to quit, for many months, the countries
bordering on the Gambia, it seems proper,
before I proceed with my narrative, that I
should, in this place, give some account of
the several Negro nations which inhabit
the banks of this celebrated river; and the
commercial intercourse that subsists be-
tween them, and such of the nations of
Europe as find their advantage in trading
to this part of Africa. The observations
which have occurred to me on both these
subjects will be found in the following
Chapter.
* Dr. Laidley, to my infinite regret, has since paid the
debt of nature. He left Africa in the latter end of 1797,
intending to return to Great Britain by way of the
West Indies; and died soon after his arrival at Bar-
badoes.
1
+
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
21
CHAPTER II.
Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the
Foulabs, and Mandingoes.-Some Account
of the Trade between the Nations of Europe
and the Natives of Africa by the way of the
Gambia, and between the native Inhabitants
of the Coast and the Nations of the interior
Countries-their Mode of selling and buy-
ing, &c.
THE natives of the countries bordering on
the Gambia, though distributed into a great
many distinct governments, may, I think,
be divided into four great classes; the
Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and the
Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the
religion of Mahomet has made, and con-
tinues to make, considerable progress; but
in most of them, the body of the people,
both free and enslaved, persevere in main-
taining the blind but harmless superstitions
of their ancestors, and are called by the
Mahomedans kafirs, or infidels.
22
TRAVELS IN THE
Of the Feloops, I have little to add to
what has been observed concerning them
in the former Chapter. They are of a
gloomy disposition, and are supposed never
to forgive an injury. They are even said to
transmit their quarrels as deadly feuds to
their posterity; insomuch that a son con-
siders it as incumbent on him, from a just
sense of filial obligation, to become the
avenger of his deceased father's wrongs. If
a man loses his life in one of those sudden
quarrels, which perpetually occur at their
feasts, when the whole party is intoxicated
with mead, his son, or the eldest of his sons
(if he has more than one), endeavours to
procure his father's sandals, which he wears
once a year, on the anniversary of his
father's death, until a fit opportunity offers
of revenging his fate, when the object of
his resentment seldom escapes his pursuit.
This fierce and unrelenting disposition is,
however, counterbalanced by many good
qualities they display the utmost gratitude
and affection towards their benefactors ;
and the fidelity with which they preserve
whatever is intrusted to them is remarkable
During the present war they have, more
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
23
than once, taken up arms to defend our
merchant vessels from French privateers;
and English property, of considerable value,
has frequently been left at Vintain, for a
long time, entirely under the care of the
Feloops; who have uniformly manifested
on such occasions the strictest honesty and
punctuality. How greatly is it to be wished,
that the minds of a people so determined
and faithful, could be softened and civi-
lized, by the mild and benevolent spirit of
Christianity!
The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active,
powerful, and warlike race, inhabiting great
part of that tract which lies between the
river Senegal, and the Mandingo States on
the Gambia; yet they differ from the
Mandingoes, not only in language, but
likewise in complexion and features. The
noses of the Jaloffs are not so much de-
pressed, nor the lips so protuberant, as
among the generality of Africans; and
although their skin is of the deepest black,
they are considered by the white traders,
as the most sightly Negroes in this part of
the Continent.
They are divided into several independent
24
TRAVELS IN THE
states or kingdoms; which are frequently
at war either with their neighoburs, or with
each other. In their manners, superstitions,
and government, however, they have a
greater resemblance to the Mandingoes (of
whom I shall presently speak) than to any
other nation; but excel them in the manu-
facture of cotton cloth; spinning the wool
to a finer thread, weaving it in a broader
loom, and dying it of a better colour.
Their language is said to be copious
and significant; and is often learnt by
Europeans trading to Senegal. I cannot say
much of it from my own knowledge; but
have preserved their numerals, which are
these.
One
Wean.
Two
Yar.
Three
Yat.
Four
Yanet.
Five
Judom.
Six
Judom wean.
Seven
Judom Yar.
Eight
Judom Yat.
Nine
Judom Yanet.
Ten
Fook.
Eleven
Fook
aug wean, &c.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
25
The Foulahs (or Pholeys), such of them
at least as reside near the Gambia, are
chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft
silky hair, and pleasing features. They are
much attached to a pastoral life, and have
introduced themselves into all the king-
doms on the windward coast as herdsmen
and husbandmen, paying a tribute to the
sovereign of the country for the lands which
they hold. Not having many opportunities
however during my residence at Pisania,
of improving my acquaintance with these
people, I defer entering at large into their
character, until a fitter occasion occurs,
which will present itself when I come to
Bondou.
The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to
speak, constitute in truth, the bulk of the
inhabitants in all those districts of Africa
which I visited; and their language, with
a few exceptions, is universally understood,
and very generally spoken, in that part of
the continent. Their numerals are these:*
* In the Travels of Francis Moore the reader will
find a pretty copious vocabulary of the Mandingo
language, which in general is correct.
26
TRAVELS IN THE
*
One
Killin.
Two
Foola.
Three
Sabba.
Four
Nani.
Five
Looloo.
Six
Woro.
Seven
Oronglo.
Eight
Nine
Ten
Eleven
Sie.
Conunta.
Tang.
Tan ning killin, &c.
They are called Mandingoes, I conceive,
as having originally migrated from the in-
terior state of Manding, of which some
account will hereafter be given; but, con-
trary to the present constitution of their
parent country, which is republican, it ap-
peared to me that the government in all
the Mandingo states, near the Gambia, is
monarchical. The power of the sovereign
is, however, by no means unlimited. In all
affairs of importance, the king calls an
assembly of the principal men, or elders, by
whose councils he is directed, and without
whose advice he can neither declare war,
nor conclude peace.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
27
In every considerable town there is a
chief magistrate, called the Alkaid, whose
office is hereditary, and whose business it is
to preserve order, to levy duties on tra-
vellers, and to preside at all conferences in
the exercise of local jurisdiction and the ad-
ministration of justice. These courts are
composed of the elders of the town (of free
condition), and are termed palavers; and
their proceedings are conducted in the open
air with sufficient solemnity. Both sides of
a question are freely canvassed, witnesses
are publicly examined, and the decisions
which follow generally meet with the ap-
probation of the surrounding audience.
As the Negroes have no written language
of their own, the general rule of decision
is an appeal to ancient custom; but since
the system of Mahomet has made so great
progress among them, the converts to that
faith have gradually introduced, with the
religious tenets, many of the civil insti-
tutions of the Prophet; and where the
Koran is not found sufficiently explicit,
recourse is had to a commentary called
Al Sharra, containing, as I was told, a
complete exposition or digest of the Ma-
28
TRAVELS IN THE
homedan laws, both civil and criminal,
properly arranged and illustrated.
This frequency of appeal to written laws,
with which the Pagan natives are necessa-
rily unacquainted, has given rise in their
palavers to (what I little expected to find
in Africa) professional advocates, or ex-
pounders of the law, who are allowed to
appear and to plead for plaintiff or defend-
ant, much in the same manner as counsel
in the law courts of Great Britain. They
are Mahomedan Negroes who have made,
or affect to have made, the laws of the Pro-
phet their peculiar study; and if I may
judge from their harangues, which I fre-
quently attended, I believe that in the
forensic qualifications of procrastination and
cavil, and the arts of confounding and per-
plexing a cause, they are not always sur-
passed by the ablest pleaders in Europe.
While I was at Pisania a cause was heard
which furnished the Mahomedan lawyers
with an admirable opportunity of display-
ing their professional dexterity. The case
was this an ass belonging to a Serawoolli
Negro (a native of an interior country near
the river Senegal) had broke into a field of
:
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
29
corn belonging to one of the Mandingo
inhabitants, and destroyed great part of it.
The Mandingo having caught the animal
in his field, immediately drew his knife and
cut its throat. The Serawoolli thereupon
called a palaver (or in European terms,
brought an action) to recover damages for
the loss of his beast, on which he set a high
value. The defendant confessed he had
killed the ass, but pleaded a set off, insisting
that the loss he had sustained by the ravage
in his corn, was equal to the sum demanded
for the animal. To ascertain this fact was
the point at issue, and the learned advocates
contrived to puzzle the cause in such a
manner, that after a hearing of three days,
the court broke up without coming to any
determination upon it; and a second pala-
ver was, I suppose, thought necessary.
The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are
of a mild, sociable, and obliging disposition.
The men are commonly above the middle
size, well shaped, strong, and capable of
enduring great labour; the women are
good-natured, sprightly and agreeable. The
dress of both sexes is composed of cotton
cloth, of their own manufacture; that of
لوم
30
TRAVELS IN THE
1
the men is a loose frock, not unlike a sur-
plice, with drawers which reach half way
down the leg; and they wear sandals on
their feet, and white cotton caps on their
heads. The womens' dress consists of two
pieces of cloth, each of which they wrap
round the waist, which hanging down to
the ancles answers the purpose of a petti-
coat the other is thrown negligently over
the bosom and shoulders,
This account of their clothing is indeed
nearly applicable to the natives of all the
different countries in this part of Africa; a
peculiar national mode is observable only
in the head dresses of the women.
Thus, in the countries of the Gambia,
the females wear a sort of bandage, which
they call falla. It is a narrow stripe of
cotton cloth, wrapped many times round,
immediately over the forehead. In Bondou
the head is encircled with strings of white.
beads, and a small plate of gold is worn in
the middle of the forehead. In Kasson,
the ladies decorate their heads in a very
tasteful and elegant manner, with white
sea-shells. In Kaarta and Ludamar, the
women raise their hair to a great height by
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
31
the addition of a pad (as the ladies did for-
merly in Great Britain), which they deco-
rate with a species of coral, brought from
the Red sea by pilgrims returning from
Mecca, and sold at a great price.
In the construction of their dwelling
houses the Mandingoes also conform to the
general practice of the African nations on
this part of the continent, contenting them-
selves with small and incommodious hovels.
A circular mud wall about four feet high,
upon which is placed a conical roof, com-
posed of the bamboo cane, and thatched
with grass, forms alike the palace of the
king, and the hovel of the slave. Their
household furniture is equally simple. A
hurdle of canes placed upon upright stakes,
about two feet from the ground, upon which
is spread a mat or bullock's hide, answers
the purpose of a bed: a water jar, some
earthen pots for dressing their food, a few
wooden bowls and calabashes, and one or
two low stools, compose the rest.
As every man of free condition has a plu-
rality of wives, it is found necessary (to
prevent, I suppose, matrimonial disputes)
that each of the ladies should be accom-
32
TRAVELS IN THE
modated with a hut to herself; and all the
huts belonging to the same family are sur-
rounded by a fence, constructed of bamboo
canes, split and formed into a sort of wicker-
work. The whole inclosure is called a sirk,
or surk. A number of these inclosures, with
narrow passages between them, form what
is called a town; but the huts are generally
placed without any regularity, according to
the caprice of the owner. The only rule
that seems to be attended to, is placing the
door towards the south-west, in order to
admit the sea breeze.
In each town is a large stage called the
Bentang, which answers the purpose of a
public hall or town-house; it is composed
of interwoven canes, and is generally shel-
tered from the sun by being erected in the
shade of some large tree. It is here that all
public affairs are transacted and trials con-
ducted; and here the lazy and indolent
meet to smoke their pipes and hear the
news of the day. In most of the towns the
Mahomedans have also a missura, or mosque,
in which they assemble and offer up their
daily prayers, according to the rules of the
Koran.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
33
In the account which I have thus given
of the natives, the reader must bear in
mind, that my observations apply chiefly
to persons of free condition, who constitute,
I suppose, not more than one-fourth part
of the inhabitants at large; the other three-
fourths are in a state of hopeless and here-
ditary slavery; and are employed in culti-
vating the land, in the care of cattle, and in
servile offices of all kinds, much in the same
manner as the slaves in the West Indies.
I was told, however, that the Mandingo
master can neither deprive his slave of life,
nor sell him to a stranger, without first
calling a palaver on his conduct; or, in
other words, bringing him to a public trial:
but this degree of protection is extended
only to the native or domestic slave. Cap-
tives taken in war, and those unfortunate
victims who are condemned to slavery for
crimes or insolvency, and, in short, all those
unhappy people who are brought down
from the interior countries for sale, have no
security whatever, but may be treated and
disposed of in all respects as the owner
thinks proper. It sometimes happens, in-
deed, when no ships are on the Coast, that
D
34
TRAVELS IN THE
a humane and considerate master, incor-
porates his purchased slaves among his
domestics; and their offspring at least, if
not the parents, become entitled to all the
privileges of the native class.
The preceding remarks, concerning the
several nations that inhabit the banks of
the Gambia, are all that I recollect as
necessary to be made in this place, at the
outset of my journey. With regard to the
Mandingoes, however, many particulars are
yet to be related; some of which are neces-
sarily interwoven into the narrative of my
progress, and others will be given in a
summary, at the end of my work; together
with all such observations as I have col-
lected on the country and climate, which I
could not with propriety insert in the re-
gular detail of occurrences. What remains
of the present Chapter will therefore relate
solely to the trade which the nations of
Christendom have found means to establish
with the natives of Africa, by the channel
of the Gambia; and the inland traffic which
has arisen, in consequence of it, between
the inhabitants of the Coast, and the nations
of the interior countries.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
35
The earliest European establishment on
this celebrated river was a factory of the
Portugueze; and to this must be ascribed
the introduction of the numerous words of
that language which are still in use among
the Negroes. The Dutch, French, and
English, afterwards successively possessed
themselves of settlements on the Coast;
but the trade of the Gambia became, and
continued for many years, a sort of mono-
poly in the hands of the English. In the
travels of Francis Moore, is preserved an
account of the Royal African Company's
establishments in this river, in the year
1730; at which time James's factory alone
consisted of a governor, deputy governor,
and two other principal officers; eight
factors, thirteen writers, twenty inferior
attendants and tradesmen; a company of
soldiers, and thirty-two Negro servants,
besides sloops, shallops, and boats, with
their crews; and there were no less than
eight subordinate factories in other parts of
the river.
1
The trade with Europe, by being after-
wards laid open, was almost annihilated;
the share which the subjects of England at
D 2
36
TRAVELS IN THE
's
this time hold in it, supports not more than
two or three annual ships; and I am in-
formed that the gross value of British ex-
ports is under £20,000. The French and
Danes still maintain a small share, and the
Americans have lately sent a few vessels to
the Gambia by way of experiment.
The commodities exported to the Gambia
from Europe consist chiefly of fire-arms and
ammunition, iron ware, spirituous liquors,
tobacco, cotton caps, a small quantity of
broad cloth, and a few articles of the manu-
facture of Manchester; a small assortment
of India goods, with some glass beads, amber,
and other trifles: for which are taken in
exchange slaves, gold-dust, ivory, bees-wax,
and hides. Slaves are the chief article, but
the whole number which at this time are
annually exported from the Gambia by
all nations, is supposed to be under one
thousand.
Most of these unfortunate victims are
brought to the Coast in periodical caravans;
many of them from very remote inland
countries; for the language which they
speak is not understood by the inhabitants
of the maritime districts. In a subsequent
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
37
part of my work I shall give the best infor-
mation I have been able to collect concern-
ing the manner in which they are obtained.
On their arrival at the Coast, if no immedi-
ate opportunity offers of selling them to
advantage, they are distributed among the
neighbouring villages, until a slave ship
arrives, or until they can be sold to black
traders, who sometimes purchase on specu-
lation. In the meanwhile, the poor wretches
are kept constantly fettered, two and two
of them being chained together, and em-
ployed in the labours of the field: and I am
sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well
as harshly treated. The price of a slave
varies according to the number of purchasers
from Europe and the arrival of caravans
from the interior; but in general I reckon,
that a young and healthy male, from 16 to
25 years of age, may be estimated on the
spot from £18. to £20. sterling.
The Negro slave merchants, as I have
observed in the former Chapter are called
Slatees; who, besides slaves, and the mer-
chandize which they bring for sale to the
whites, supply the inhabitants of the mari-
time districts with native iron, sweet smell-
38
TRAVELS IN THE
ing gums and frankincense, and a commo-
dity called Shea-toulou, which literally trans-
lated, signifies tree-butter. This commodity
is extracted, by means of boiling water,
from the kernel of a nut, as will be more
particularly described hereafter it has the
consistence and appearance of butter; and
is in truth an admirable substitute for it.
It forms an important article in the food of
the natives, and serves also for every do-
mestic purpose in which oil would otherwise
be used. The demand for it is therefore
very great.
In payment of these articles, the maritime
states supply the interior countries with
salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as I
frequently and painfully experienced in the
course of my journey. Considerable quan-
tities of this article, however, are also sup-
plied to the inland natives by the Moors;
who obtain it from the salt-pits in the Great
Desart, and receive in return corn, cotton
cloth, and slaves.
In thus bartering one commodity for
another, many inconveniences must neces-
sarily have arisen at first from the want of
coined money, or some other visible and
D
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
39
determinate medium, to settle the balance,
or difference of value, between different
articles; to remedy which, the natives of
the interior make use of small shells called
kowries, as will be shewn hereafter. On
the Coast, the inhabitants have adopted a
practice which I believe is peculiar to them-
selves.
In their early intercourse with Euro-
peans, the article that attracted most notice
was iron. Its utility, in forming the instru-
ments of war and husbandry, made it pre-
ferable to all others; and iron soon became
the measure by which the value of all other
commodities was ascertained. Thus a cer-
tain quantity of goods of whatever denomi-
nation, appearing to be equal in value to a
bar of iron, constituted, in the trader's
phraseology, a bar of that particular mer-
chandize. Twenty leaves of tobacco, for
instance, were considered as a bar of tobacco;
and a gallon of spirits (or rather half spirits
and half water), as a bar of rum; a bar of
one commodity being reckoned equal in
value to a bar of another commodity.
As, however, it must unavoidably happen,
*
40
TRAVELS IN THE
that according to the plenty or scarcity of
goods at maiket in proportion to the de-
mand, the relative value would be subject
to continual fluctuation, greater precision
has been found necessary; and at this time,
the current value of a single bar of any
kind is fixed by the whites at two shillings
sterling. Thus a slave, whose price is £15.
is said to be worth 150 bars.
In transactions of this nature, it is obvious
that the white trader has infinitely the ad-
vantage over the African, whom, therefore,
it is difficult to satisfy; for, conscious of
his own ignorance, he naturally becomes.
exceedingly suspicious and wavering; and
indeed so very unsettled and jealous are the
Negroes in their dealings with the whites,
that a bargain is never considered by the
European as concluded, until the purchase
money is paid, and the party has taken
leave.
Having now brought together such ge-
neral observations on the country, and its
inhabitants, as occurred to me during my
residence in the vicinage of the Gambia, I
shall detain the reader no longer with
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
41
introductory matter, but proceed, in the
next Chapter, to a regular detail of the
incidents which happened, and the reflec-
tions which arose in my mind, in the course
of my painful and perilous journey, from
its commencement, until my return to the
Gambia.
ļ
1
42
TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER III.
The Author sets out from Pisania —his At-
tendants--reaches Findey,-Story related
by a Mandingo Negro.- Proceeds to
Medina, the capital of Woolli.-Interview
with the King-Saphies or Charms.-
Proceeds to Kolor.-Description of Mumbo
Jumbo-arrives at Koojar-wrestling
Match.-Crosses the Wilderness, and ar-
rives at Tallika, in the Kingdom of Bondou.
ON
On the 2d of December, 1795, I took my
departure from the hospitable mansion of
Dr. Laidley. I was fortunately provided
with a Negro servant, who spoke both
the English and Mandingo tongues. His
name was Johnson. He was a native of
this part of Africa; and having in his
youth been conveyed to Jamaica as a slave,
he had been made free, and taken to Eng-
land by his master, where he had resided
many years; and at length found his way
back to his native country. As he was
-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
43
known to Dr. Laidley, the Doctor recom-
mended him to me, and I hired him as my
interpreter, at the rate of ten bars monthly,
to be paid to himself, and five bars a month
to be paid to his wife, during his absence.
Dr. Laidley furthermore provided me with
a Negro boy of his own, named Demba;
a sprightly youth, who, besides Mandingo,
spoke the language of the Serawoollies, an
inland people (of whom mention will here-
after be made), residing on the banks of
the Senegal; and to induce him to behave
well, the Doctor promised him his freedom
on his return, in case I should report favour-
ably of his fidelity and services. I was fur-
nished with a horse for myself, (a small,
but very hardy and spirited beast, which
cost me to the value of £7. 10s.) and two
asses for my interpreter and servant. My
baggage was light, consisting chiefly of
provisions for two days; a small assort-
ment of beads, amber, and tobacco, for the
purchase of a fresh supply, as I proceeded :
a few changes of linen, and other necessary
apparel, an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a
magnetic compass, and a thermometer;
together with two fowling pieces, two
}
44
TRAVELS IN THE
pair of pistols, and some other small ar-
ticles.
A free man (a Bushreen or Mahomedan),
named Madiboo, who was travelling to the
kingdom of Bambarra, and two Slatees, or
slave merchants of the Serawoolli nation,
and of the same sect, who were going to
Bondou, offered their services as far as they
intended respectively to proceed; as did
likewise a Negro named Tami, (also a
Mahomedan,) a native of Kasson, who had
been employed some years by Dr. Laidley
as a blacksmith, and was returning to his
native country with the savings of his
labours. All these men travelled on foot,
driving their asses before them.
Thus I had no less than six attendants,
all of whom had been taught to regard me
with great respect; and to consider that
their safe return hereafter, to the countries
on the Gambia, would depend on my pre-
servation.
Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs. Ainsley,
with a number of their domestics, kindly
determined to accompany me the two first
days; and, I believe, they secretly thought
they should never see me afterwards.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
45
We reached Jindey the same day, having
crossed the Walli creek, a branch of the
Gambia, and rested at the house of a black
woman, who had formerly been the chère amie
of a white trader named Hewett; and who,
in consequence thereof, was called, by way
of distinction, Seniora. In the evening we
walked out to see an adjoining village,
belonging to a Slatee named Jemaffoo
Mamadoo, the richest of all the Gambia
traders. We found him at home; and he
thought so highly of the honour done him
by this visit, that he presented us with a
fine bullock, which was immediately killed,
and part of it dressed for our evening's
repast.
The Negroes do not go to supper till
late; and in order to amuse ourselves while
our beef was preparing, a Mandingo was
desired to relate some diverting stories; in
listening to which, and smoking tobacco,
we spent three hours. These stories bear
some resemblance to those in the Arabian
Nights Entertainments; but, in general,
are of a more ludicrous cast. I shall here
abridge one of them for the reader's amuse-
ment.
46
TRAVELS IN THE
"Many years ago (said the relator),
the people of Doomasansa (a town on the
Gambia), were much annoyed by a lion,
that came every night, and took away some
of their cattle. By continuing his depre-
dations, the people were at length so much
enraged, that a party of them resolved to go
and hunt the monster. They accordingly
proceeded in search of the common enemy,
which they found concealed in a thicket;
and immediately firing at him, were lucky
enough to wound him in such a manner,
that, in springing from the thicket towards
the people, he fell down among the grass,
and was unable to rise. The animal, how-
ever, manifested such appearance of vigour,
that nobody cared to approach him singly;
and a consultation was held, concerning
the properest means of taking him alive;
a circumstance, it was said, which, while it
furnished undeniable proof of their prowess,
would turn out to great advantage, it being
resolved to convey him to the Coast, and sell
him to the Europeans. While some persons
proposed one plan, and some another,
an old man offered a scheme. This was,
to strip the roof of a house of its thatch,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
47
and to carry the bamboo frame (the pieces
of which are well secured together by
thongs), and throw it over the lion. If,
in approaching him, he should attempt to
spring upon them, they had nothing to do
but to let down the roof upon themselves,
and fire at the lion through the rafters.
This proposition was approved and
adopted. The thatch was taken from the roof
of a hut, and the lion-hunters, supporting
the fabric, marched courageously to the field
of battle; each person carrying a gun in
one hand, and bearing his share of the roof
on the opposite shoulder. In this manner
they approached the enemy: but the beast
had by this time recovered his strength;
and such was the fierceness of his counte-
nance, that the hunters, instead of pro-
ceeding any further, though it prudent to
provide for their own safety, by covering
themselves with the roof. Unfortunately,
the lion was too nimble for them; for,
making a spring while the roof was setting
down, both the beast and his pursuers were
caught in the same cage, and the lion de-
voured them at his leisure, to the great as-
tonishment and mortification of the people
48
TRAVELS IN THE
of Doomasansa; at which place it is dan-
gerous even at this day to tell the story; for
it is become the subject of laughter and de-
rision in the neighbouring countries, and
nothing will enrage an inhabitant of that
town so much as desiring him to catch a
lion alive."
About one o'clock in the afternoon of the
gd of December, I took my leave of Dr.
Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode
slowly into the woods. I had now before
me a boundless forest, and a country, the
inhabitants of which were strangers to civi-
lized life, and to most of whom a white
man was the object of curiosity or plunder.
I reflected that I had parted from the last
European I might probably behold, and
perhaps quitted for ever the comforts of
Christian society. Thoughts like these
would necessarily cast a gloom over the
mind, and I rode musing along for about
three miles, when I was awakened from
my reverie by a body of people, who came
running up and stopped the asses, giving
me to understand that I must go with them
to Peckaba, to present myself to the King
of Walli, or pay customs to them. I endea-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
49
voured to make them comprehend that the
object of my journey not being traffic, I
ought not to be subjected to a tax like the
Slatees, and other merchants, who travel
for gain; but I reasoned to no purpose.
They said it was usual for travellers of all
descriptions to make a present to the King
of Walli, and without doing so I could not
be permitted to proceed. As they were
more numerous than my attendants, and
withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to
comply with their demand, and having pre-
sented them with four bars of tobacco, for
the king's use, I was permitted to continue
my journey, and at sunset reached a village
near Kootacunda, where we rested for the
night.
In the morning of December 4th, I passed
Kootacunda, the last town of Walli, and
stopped about an hour at a small adjoining
village to pay customs to an officer of the
King of Woolli: we rested the ensuing
night at a village called Tabajang; and at
noon the next day (December 5th) we
reached Medina, the capital of the King of
Woolli's dominions.
The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by
E
50
TRAVELS IN THE
Walli on the west, by the Gambia on the
south, by the small river Walli on the north-
west, by Bondou on the north-east, and
on the east by the Simbani wilderness.
→
The country every where rises into gentle
acclivities, which are generally covered with
extensive woods, and the towns are situated
in the intermediate valleys. Each town is
surrounded by a tract of cultivated land,
the produce of which, I presume, is found
sufficient to supply the wants of the inha-
bitants; for the soil appeared to me to be
every where fertile, except near the tops
of the ridges, where the red iron stone
and stunted shrubs sufficiently marked the
boundaries between fertility and barrenness.
The chief productions are cotton, tobacco,
and esculent vegetables; all which are
raised in the valleys, the rising grounds
being appropriated to different sorts of
corn.
The inhabitants are Mandingoes; and,
like most of the Mandingo nations, are
divided into two great sects, the Mahome-
dans, who are called Bushreens, and the
Pagans, who are called indiscriminately
Kafirs (unbelievers) and Sonakies (i. e. men
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
51
who drink strong liquors.) The Pagan
natives are by far the most numerous, and
the government of the country is in their
hands; for though the most respectable
among the Bushreens are frequently con-
sulted in affairs of importance, yet they are
never permitted to take any share in the
executive government, which rests solely
in the hands of the Mansa, or sovereign,
and great officers of the state. Of these,
the first in point of rank is the presumptive
heir of the crown, who is called the Far-
banna; next to him are the Alkaids, or
provincial governors, who are more fre-
quently called Keamos. Then follow the
two grand divisions of freemen and slaves*;
of the former, the Slatees, so frequently
mentioned in the preceding pages, are con-
sidered as the principal: but in all classes,
great respect is paid to the authority of
aged men.
of
On the death of the reigning monarch,
his eldest son (if he has attained the age
manhood) succeeds to the regal authority.
If there is no son, or if the son is under the
* The term which signifies a man of free condition,
is Horia; that of a slave, Jong.
E 2
52
TRAVELS IN THE
age of discretion, a meeting of the great
men is held, and the late monarch's nearest
relation (commonly his brother), is called
to the government, not as regent, or guar-
dian to the infant son, but in full right,
and to the exclusion of the minor. The
charges of the government are defrayed by
occasional tributes from the people, and by
duties on goods transported across the
country. Travellers, on going from the
Gambia towards the interior, pay customs
in European merchandize. On returning,
they pay in iron and shea-toulou: these
taxes are paid at every town.
Medina* the capital of the kingdom, at
which I was now arrived, is a place of con-
siderable extent; and may contain from
eight hundred to one thousand houses. It
is fortified in the common African manner,
by a surrounding high wall built of clay,
and an outward fence of pointed stakes and
prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected,
and the outward fence has suffered con-
siderably from the active hands of busy
*Medina in the Arabic signifies a city; the name is
not uncommon among the Negroes, and has probably
been borrowed from the Mahomedans.
INTERIOR OF africa.
53
housewives, who pluck up the stakes for
firewood. I obtained a lodging at one of
the king's near relations, who apprized me,
that at my introduction to the king, I must
not presume to shake hands with him. It
was not usual, he said, to allow this liberty
to strangers. Thus instructed, I went in
the afternoon to pay my respects to the
sovereign; and ask permission to pass
through his territories to Bondou. The
king's name was Jatta. He was the same
venerable old man of whom so favour-
able an account was transmitted by Major
Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat
before the door of his hut: a number of
men and women were arranged on each
side, who were singing and clapping their
hands. I saluted him respectfully, and in-
formed him of the purport of my visit. The
king graciously replied, that he not only
gave me leave to pass through his country,
but would offer up his prayers for my safety.
On this, one of my attendants, seemingly
in return for the king's condescension,
began to sing, or rather to roar, an Arabiç
song; at every pause of which, the king
himself, and all the people present, struck
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their hands against their forehead, and
exclaimed, with devout and affecting so-
lemnity, Amen, amen !* The king told me
furthermore, that I should have a guide
the day following, who would conduct me
safely to the frontier of his kingdom. I then
took my leave, and in the evening sent the
king an order upon Dr. Laidley for three
gallons of rum, and received in return great
store of provisions.
December 6th, early in the morning, I
went to the king a second time, to learn if
the guide was ready. I found his majesty
sitting upon a bullock's hide, warming him-
self before a large fire; for the Africans are
sensible of the smallest variation in the
temperature of the air, and frequently com-
plain of cold when a European is oppressed
with heat. He received me with a bene-
volent countenance, and tenderly entreated
* It may seem from hence that the king was a Ma-
homedan; but I was assured to the contrary. He
joined in prayer on this occasion probably from the mere
dictates of his benevolent mind; considering perhaps
that prayers to the Almighty, offered up with true de-
votion and sincerity, were equally acceptable, whether
from Bushreen or Pagan.
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
55
me to desist from my purpose of travelling
into the interior; telling me, that Major
Houghton had been killed in his route, and
that if I followed his footsteps, I should
probably meet with his fate. He said that
I must not judge of the people of the eastern
country by those of Woolli: that the latter
were acquainted with white men, and re-
spected them; whereas the people of the
east had never seen a white man, and
would certainly destroy me. I thanked the
king for his affectionate solicitude, but told
him that I had considered the matter,
and was determined, notwithstanding all
dangers, to proceed. The king shook his
head, but desisted from further persuasion;
and told me the guide should be ready in
the afternoon.
About two o'clock, the guide appearing,
I went and took my last farewell of the
good old king, and in three hours reached
Konjour, a small village, where we deter-
mined to rest for the night. Here I pur-
chased a fine sheep for some beads, and my
Serawoolli attendants killed it with all the
ceremonies prescribed by their religion:
part of it was dressed for supper: after
$6
TRAVELS IN THE
which a dispute arose between one of the
Serawoolli Negroes and Johnson, my inter-
preter, about the sheep's horns. The for-
mer claimed the horns as his perquisite, for
having acted the part of our butcher, and
Johnson contested the claim. I settled the
matter by giving a horn to each of them.
This trifling incident is mentioned as intro-
ductory to what follows: for it appeared
on enquiry that these horns were highly
valued, as being easily convertible into port-
able sheaths, or cases, for containing and
keeping secure certain charms or amulets
called saphies, which the Negroes constantly
wear about them. These saphies are prayers
or rather sentences, from the Koran, which
the Mahomedan priests write on scraps of
paper, and sell to the simple natives, who
consider them to possess very extraordinary
virtues. Some of the Negroes wear them
to guard themselves against the bite of
snakes or alligators; and on this occasion
the saphie is commonly inclosed in a snake's
or alligator's skin, and tied round the ancle.
Others have recourse to them in time of
war, to protect their persons against hostile
weapons; but the common use to which
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
57
these amulets are applied, is to prevent or
cure bodily diseases; to preserve from hun-
ger and thirst; and generally to conciliate
the favour of superior powers under all the
circumstances and occurrences of life. *
In this case it is impossible not to admire
the wonderful contagion of superstition;
for, notwithstanding that the majority of
the Negroes are Pagans, and absolutely
reject the doctrines of Mahomet, I did not
meet with a man, whether a Bushreen or
Kafir, who was not fully persuaded of the
powerful efficacy of these amulets. The
truth is, that all the natives of this part of
Africa consider the art of writing as bor-
dering on magic; and it is not in the doc-
trines of the Prophet, but in the arts of the
magician, that their confidence is placed.
It will hereafter be seen that I was myself
lucky enough, in circumstances of distress,
to turn the popular credulity in this respect.
to good account.
On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and
slept at a village called Malla (or Mallaing);
* I believe that similar charms or amulets, under the
names of domini, grigri, fetich, &c. &c. are common in
all parts of Africa.
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TRAVELS IN THE
and on the 8th about noon I arrived at Kolor,
a considerable town; near the entrance
into which I observed, hanging upon a tree,
a sort of masquerade habit, made of the
bark of trees, which I was told on enquiry
belonged to MUMBO JUMBO. This is a
strange bugbear, common to all the Man-
dingo towns, and much employed by the
Pagan natives in keeping their women in
subjection; for as the Kafirs are not re-
stricted in the number of their wives, every
one marries as many as he can convenient-
ly maintain; and as it frequently happens
that the ladies disagree among themselves,
family quarrels sometimes rise to such a
height, that the authority of the husband
can no longer preserve peace in his house-
hold. In such cases, the interposition of
Mumbo Jumbo is called in, and is always
decisive.
This strange minister of justice (who is
supposed to be either the husband himself,
or some person instructed by him), disguised
in the dress that has been mentioned, and
armed with the rod of public authority, an-
nounces his coming (whenever his services
are required) by loud and dismal screams in
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
59
}
the woods near the town. He begins the
pantomime at the approach of night; and
as soon as it is dark he enters the town,
and proceeds to the Bentang, at which all
the inhabitants immediately assemble.
It may easily be supposed that this exhi-
bition is not much relished by the women;
for as the person in disguise is entirely un-
known to them, every married female sus-
pects that the visit may possibly be intended
for herself; but they dare not refuse to
appear when they are summoned; and
the ceremony commences with songs and
dances, which continue till midnight, about
which time Mumbo fixes on the offender.
This unfortunate victim being thereupon
immediately seized, is stripped naked, tied to
a post, and severely scourged with Mumbo's
rod, amidst the shouts and derision of the
whole assembly; and it is remarkable, that
the rest of the women are the loudest in
their exclamations on this occasion against
their unhappy sister. Daylight puts an end
to this indecent and unmanly revel.
December 9th. As there was no water
to be procured on the road, we travelled
with great expedition until we reached
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TRAVELS IN THE
Tambacunda; and departing from thence
early the next morning, the 10th, we reached
in the evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly
the same magnitude as Kolor. About noon
on the 11th we arrived at Koojar, the fron-
tier town of Woolli, towards Bondou, from
which it is separated by an intervening
Wilderness of two days' journey.
The guide appointed by the King of
Woolli being now to return, I presented
him with some amber for his trouble: and
having been informed that it was not pos-
sible at all times to procure water in the
Wilderness, I made inquiry for men who
would serve both as guides and water-bearers
during my journey across it. Three Ne-
groes, elephant hunters, offered their ser-
vices for these purposes, which I accepted,
and paid them three bars each in advance,
and the day being far spent, I determined
to pass the night in my present quarters.
The inhabitants of Koojar, though not
wholly unaccustomed to the sight of Euro-
peans (most of them having occasionally
visited the countries on the Gambia) beheld
me with a mixture of curiosity and reve-
rence, and in the evening invited me to see
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
61
a neobering, or wrestling match, at the
Bentang. This is an exhibition very com-
mon in all the Mandingo countries. The
spectators arranged themselves in a circle,
leaving the intermediate space for the wrest-
lers, who were strong active young men,
full of emulation, and accustomed I suppose
from their infancy to this sort of exertion.
Being stripped of their clothing, except a
short pair of drawers, and having their skin
anointed with oil, or shea butter, the com-
batants approached each other on all fours,
parrying with, and occasionally extending
a hand for some time, till at length one of
them sprang forward, and caught his rival
by the knee. Great dexterity and judg-
ment were now displayed; but the contest
was decided by superior strength; and I
think that few Europeans would have been
able to cope with the conqueror. It must
not be unobserved, that the combatants
were animated by the music of a drum, by
which their actions were in some measure
regulated.
The wrestling was succeeded by a dance,
in which many performers assisted, all of
whom were provided with little bells, which
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TRAVELS IN THE
were fastened to their legs and arms; and
here too the drum regulated their motions.
It was beaten with a crooked stick, which
the drummer held in his right hand, occa-
sionally using his left to deaden the sound,
and thus vary the music. The drum is
likewise applied on these occasions to keep
order among the spectators, by imitating
the sound of certain Mandingo sentences:
for example, when the wrestling match is
about to begin, the drummer strikes what
is understood to signify ali ba see,—sit all
down; upon which the spectators immedi-
ately seat themselves; and when the com-
batants are to begin, he strike amuta amuta,
-take hold, take hold.
In the course of the evening I was pre-
sented, by way of refreshment, with a liquor
which tasted so much like the strong-beer
of my native country (and very good beer
too,) as to induce me to inquire into its
composition; and I learnt, with some de-
gree of surprise, that it was actually made
from corn which had been previously malted,
much in the same manner as barley is malted
in Great Britain: a root yielding a grate-
ful bitter, was used in lieu of hops, the name
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
63
of which I have forgot; but the corn which
yields the wort, is the holcus spicatus of
botanists.
Early in the morning (the 12th,) I found
that one of the elephant hunters had ab-
sconded with the money he had received
from me in part of wages; and in order to
prevent the other two from following his
example, I made them instantly fill their
calabashes (or gourds) with water, and
as the sun rose I entered the Wilderness
that separates the kingdoms of Woolli and
Bondou.
We had not travelled more than a mile
before my attendants insisted on stopping,
that they might prepare a saphie, or charm,
to insure us a safe journey. This was done
by muttering a few sentences, and spitting
upon a stone, which was thrown before us
on the road. The same ceremony was re-
peated three times, after which the Negroes
proceeded with the greatest confidence;
every one being firmly persuaded that the
stone (like the scape goat) had carried with
it every thing that could induce superior
powers to visit us with misfortune.
We continued our journey without stop-
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TRAVELS IN THE
ping any more until noon, when we came
to a large tree, called by the natives Neema
Taba. It had a very singular appearance,
being decorated with innumerable rags or
scraps of cloth, which persons travelling
across the Wilderness had, at different times,
tied to the branches; probably, at first, to
inform the traveller that water was to be
found near it; but the custom has been so
greatly sanctioned by time, that nobody now
presumes to pass without hanging up some-
thing. I followed the example, and suspen-
ded a handsome piece of cloth on one of the
boughs; and being told that either a well,
or pool of water, was at no great distance, I
ordered the Negroes to unload the asses, that
we might give them corn, and regale our-
selves with the provisions we had brought.
In the mean time I sent one of the elephant
hunters to look for the well, intending if
water was to be obtained, to rest here for
the night. A pool was found, but the water
was thick and muddy, and the Negro dis-
covered near it the remains of a fire recently
extinguished, and the fragments of provi-
sions; which afforded a proof that it had
been lately visited, either by travellers or
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
65
banditti. The fears of my attendants sup-
posed the latter; and believing that robbers
lurked near us, I was persuaded to change
my resolution of resting here all night, and
proceed to another watering place, which
I was assured we might reach early in the
evening.
We departed accordingly, but it was
eight o'clock at night before we came to
the watering place; and being now suffi-
ciently fatigued with so long a day's journey,
we kindled a large fire, and lay down, sur-
rounded by our cattle, on the bare ground,
more than a gun-shot from any bush; the
Negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns
to prevent surprise.
I know not indeed that any danger was
justly to be dreaded, but the Negroes were
unaccountably apprehensive of banditti, du-
ring the whole of the journey. As soon
therefore as daylight appeared, we filled
our soofroos (skins) and calabashes at the
pool, and set out for Tallika, the first town
in Bondou, which we reached about eleven
o'clock in the forenoon (the 13th of De-
cember). I cannot, however take leave of
Woolli, without observing that I wasevery
F
4
66
TRAVELS IN THE
where well received by the natives; and
that the fatigues of the day were generally
alleviated by a hearty welcome at night;
and although the African mode of living
was at first unpleasant to me, yet I found,
at length, that custom surmounted trifling
inconveniences, and made every thing pala-
table and easy.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
67
CHAPTER IV.
Some Account of the Inhabitants of Tallika.
-The Author proceeds for Fattecmda-
Incidents on the Road.-Crosses the Neriko,
arrives at Koorkarany-reaches the River
Falemé-Fishery on that River-proceeds
along its Bank to Naye or Nayemow—
crosses the Falemé and arrives at Fatte-
conda.-Has an Interview with Almami,
the Sovereign of Bondou.-Des ription of
the King's Dwelling-has a second Inter-
view with the King, who begs the Authɔr's
Coat.-Author visits the King's Wives—
is permitted to depart on friendly Terms.—
Journey by Nigh-arrives at Joag.-
Some Account of Bondvu and its Inwabi-
tants the Foulabs.
TALLIKA, the frontier town of Bondou
towards Woolli, is inhabited chiefly by
Foulahs of the Mahomedan religion, who
live in considerable affluence, partly by fur-
nishing provisions to the coffles, or caravans,
F 2
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TRAVELS IN THE
:
that pass through the town, and partly
by the sale of ivory, obtained by hunting
elephants; in which employment the young
men are generally very successful. Here, an
officer belonging to the King of Bondou
constantly resides, whose business it is to
give timely information of the arrival of
the caravans; which are taxed according
to the number of loaded asses that arrive
at Tallika.
I took up my residence at this officer's
house, and agreed with him to accompany
me to Fatteconda, the residence of the king,
for which he was to receive five bars; and
before my departure I wrote a few lines to
Dr. Laidley, and gave my letter to the
master of a caravan bound for the Gambia.
This caravan consisted of nine or ten people
with five asses loaded with ivory. The large
teeth are conveyed in nets, two on each side
of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up
in skins, and secured with ropes.
December 14th. We left Tallika, and
rode on very peaceably for about two miles,
when a violent quarrel arose between two
of
my fellow-travellers, one of whom was
the blacksmith, in the course of which they
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
69
bestowed some opprobrious terms upon
each other; and it is worthy of remark,
that an African will sooner forgive a blow,
than a term of reproach applied to his an-
cestors : ""
"Strike me, but do not curse my
mother," is a common expression even
among the slaves. This sort of abuse, there-
fore, so enraged one of the disputants, that
he drew his cutlass upon the blacksmith,
and would certainly have ended the dis-
pute in a very serious manner, if the others
had not laid hold of him, and wrested the
cutlass from him. I was obliged to interfere,
and put an end to this disagreeable business,
by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, and
telling the other, who I thought was in the
wrong, that if he attempted in future to
draw his cutlass, or molest any of my at-
tendants, I should look upon him as a robber,
and shoot him without further ceremony.
This threat had the desired effect, and we
marched sullenly along till the afternoon,
when we arrived at a number of small
villages scattered over an open and fertile
plain; at one of these called Ganado we
took up our residence for the night: here
an exchange of presents and a good supper
A
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TRAVELS IN THE
terminated all animosities among my at-
tendants; and the night was far advanced
before any of us thought of going to sleep.
We were amused by an itinerant singing
man * who told a number of diverting
stories, and played some sweet airs, by
blowing his breath upon a bowstring, and
striking it at the same time with a stick.
December 15th. At davbreak my fellow-
travellers, the Serawoollies, took leave of
me, with many pravers for my safety.
About a mile from Ganado, we crossed a
considerable branch of the Gambia, called
Neriko. The banks were steep, and covered
with mimosas; and I observed in the mud a
number of large muscles, but the natives do
not eat them. About noon, the sun being
exceedingly hot, we rested two hours in the
shade of a tree, and purchased some milk
and pounded corn from some Foulah herds-
men, and at sunset reached a town called
Koorkarany, where the blacksmith had
some relations; and here we rested two
days.
* These are a sort of travelling bards and musicians,
who sing extempore songs in praise of those who employ
them. A fuller account of them will be given hereafter.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
71
Koorkarany is a Mahomedan town, sur-
rounded by a high wall, and is provided
Here I was shewn a
with a mosque.
number of Arabic manuscripts, particularly
a copy of the book before mentioned called
Al Shara. The Maraboo, or priest, in whose
'possession it was, read and explained to me
in Mandingo, many of the most remarkable
passages; and in return I shewed him
Richardson's Arabic grammar, which he
very much admired.
On the evening of the second day (Dec.
17th) we departed from Koorkarany. We
were joined by a young man who was tra-
velling to Fatteconda for salt; and as night
set in we reached Dooggi, a small village
about three miles from Koorkarany.
Provisions were here so cheap that I
purchased a bullock for six small stones of
amber; for I found my company increase
or diminish according to the good fare they
met with.
Dec. 18th. Early in the morning we
departed from Dooggi, and being joined by
a number of Foulahs and other people, made
a formidable appearance; and were under
no apprehension of being plundered in the
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TRAVELS IN THE
woods. About eleven o'clock one of the
asses proving very refractory, the Negroes
took a curious method to make him tract-
able. They cut a forked stick, and putting
the forked part into the ass's mouth, like
the bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller
parts together above his head, leaving the
lower part of the stick of sufficient length
to strike against the ground, if the ass
should attempt to put his head down.
After this, the ass walked along quietly,
and gravely enough, taking care, after some
practice, to hold his head sufficiently high
to prevent the stones or roots of trees from
striking against the end of the stick, which
experience had taught him would give a
severe shock to his teeth. This contrivance
produced a ludicrous appearance, but my
fellow-travellers told me it was constantly
adopted by the Slatees, and always proved
effectual.
In the evening we arrived at a few scat-
tered villages, surrounded with extensive
cultivation; at one of which, called Buggil,
we passed the night in a miserable hut,
having no other bed than a bundle of corn
stalks, and no provisions but what we
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
73
brought with us. The wells here are dug
with great ingenuity, and are very deep. I
measured one of the bucket-ropes, and found
the depth of the well to be 28 fathoms.
Dec. 19th. We departed from Buggil,
and travelled along a dry, stony height,
covered with mimosas, till mid-day; when
the land sloped towards the east, and we
descended into a deep valley, in which I
observed abundance of whin-stone, and
white quartz. Pursuing our course to the
eastward, along this valley, in the bed of
an exhausted river course, we came to a
large village, where we intended to lodge.
We found many of the natives, dressed in a
thin French gauze which they called Byqui;
this being a light airy dress, and well cal-
culated to display the shape of their persons,
is much esteemed by the ladies. The man-
ners of these females, however, did not
correspond with their dress; for they were
rude and troublesome in the highest degree;
they surrounded me in numbers, begging
for amber, beads, &c.; and were so vehe-
ment in their solicitations, that I found it
impossible to resist them. They tore my
cloak, cut the buttons from my boy's clothes,
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and were proceeding to other outrages, when
I mounted my horse and rode off, followed
for half a mile by a body of these harpies.
In the evening we reached Soobrudooka,
and as my company was numerous, (being
fourteen) I purchased a sheep, and abun-
dance of corn for supper; after which we
lay down by the bundles, and passed an
uncomfortable night in a heavy dew.
Dec. 20th. We departed from Soobru-
dooka, and at two o'clock reached a large
village situated on the banks of the Falemé
river, which is here rapid and rocky. The
natives were employed in fishing in various
ways. The large fish were taken in long
baskets made of split cane, and placed in a
strong current, which was created by walls
of stone built across the stream, certain open
places being left, through which the water
rushed with great force. Some of these
baskets were more than 20 feet long, and
when once the fish had entered one of them,
the force of the stream prevented it from
returning. The small fish were taken in
great numbers, in hand-nets, which the
natives weave of cotton, and use with great
dexterity. The fish last mentioned are
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
75
about the size of sprats, and are prepared
for sale in different ways; the most com-
mon is by pounding them entire as they
come from the stream, in a wooden mortar,
and exposing them to dry in the sun, in large
lumps, like sugar loaves. It may be sup-
posed that the smell is not very agreeable;
but in the Moorish countries to the north of
the Senegal, where fish is scarcely known,
this preparation is esteemed as a luxury,
and sold to considerable advantage. The
manner of using it by the natives is, by dis-
solving a piece of this black loaf in boiling
water, and mixing it with their kouskous.
I thought it very singular, at this season
of the year, to find the banks of the Falemé
every where covered with large and beau-
tiful fields of corn; but on examination I
found it was not the same species of grain
as is commonly cultivated on the Gambia;
it is called by the natives Manio, and grows
in the dry season; is very prolific, and is
reaped in the month of January. It is the
same which, from the depending position
of the ear, is called by botanical writers
bolcus cernuus.
On returning to the village, after an
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TRAVELS IN THE
¡
excursion to the river side, to inspect the
fishery, an old Moorish shereeff came to
bestow his blessing upon me, and beg some
paper to write saphies upon. This man
had seen Major Houghton in the kingdom
of Kaarta, and told me that he died in the
country of the Moors.
I gave him a few
sheets of paper, and he levied a similar tri-
bute from the blacksmith; for it is custo-
mary for young Mussulmen to make presents
to the old ones, in order to obtain their bles-
sing, which is pronounced in Arabic, and
received with great humility.
About three in the afternoon we conti-
nued our course along the bank of the
river, to the northward, till eight o'clock,
when we reached Nayemow: here the hos-
pitable master of the town received us
kindly, and presented us with a bullock. In
return, I gave him some amber and beads.
Dec. 21st. In the morning, having agreed
for a canoe to carry over my bundles, I
crossed the river, which came up to my
knees as I sat on my horse; but the water is
so clear, that from the high bank, the bot-
tom is visible all the way over.
About noon we entered Fatteconda, the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
77
capital of Bondou; and in a little time
received an invitation to the house of a re-
spectable Slatee for as there are no public
houses in Africa, it is customary for stran-
gers to stand at the Bentang, or some other
place of public resort, till they are invited to
a lodging by some of the inhabitants. We
accepted the offer; and in an hour after-
wards, a person came and told me that he
was sent on purpose to conduct me to the
king, who was very desirous of seeing me im-
mediately, if I was not too much fatigued.
I took my interpreter with me, and fol-
lowed the messenger till we got quite out
of the town, and crossed some corn fields;
when suspecting some trick I stopped, and
asked the guide whither he was going.
Upon which he pointed to a man sitting
under a tree at some little distance; and
told me that the king frequently gave audi-
ence in that retired manner, in order to
avoid a crowd of people; and that nobody
but myself and my interpreter must ap-
proach him. When I advanced, the king
desired me to come and sit by him upon
the mat; and after hearing my story, on
which he made no observation, he asked if
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I wished to purchase any slaves, or gold:
being answered in the negative, he seemed
rather surprised; but desired me to come
to him in the evening, and he would give
me some provisions.
This monarch was called Almami; a
Moorish name, though I was told that he
was not a Mahomedan, but a Kafir, or
Pagan. I had heard that he had acted to-
wards Major Houghton with great unkind-
ness, and caused him to be plundered. His
behaviour, therefore, towards myself at this
nterview, though much more civil than I
expected, was far from freeing me from
uneasiness. I still apprehended some dou-
ble dealing; and as I was now entirely in
his power, I thought it best to smooth the
way by a present; accordingly I took with
me in the evening, one cannister of gun-
powder, some amber, tobacco, and my um-
brella: and as I considered that my bundles
would inevitably be searched, I concealed
some few articles in the roof of the hut
where I lodged, and I put on my new blue
coat, in order to preserve it.
All the houses belonging to the king and
his family are surrounded by a lofty mud.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
79
wall, which converts the whole into a kind
of citadel.
The interior is subdivided into
different courts. At the first place of en-
trance I observed a man standing with a
musket on his shoulder; and I found the
way to the presence very intricate, leading
through many passages, with centinels placed
at the different doors. When we came to
the entrance of the court in which the king
resides, both my guide and interpreter,
according to custom, took off their sandals;
and the former pronounced the king's name
aloud, repeating it till he was answered from
within. We found the monarch sitting upon
a mat, and two attendants with him. I
repeated what I had before told him con-
cerning the object of my journey, and my
reasons for passing through his country.
He seemed, however, but half satisfied.
The notion of traveling for curiosity, was
quite new to him. He thought it impossi-
ble, he said, that any man in his senses
would undertake so dangerous a journey,
merely to look at the country, and its
inhabitants however, when I offered to
shew him the contents of my portmanteau,
and every thing belonging to me, he was
!
1
80
TRAVELS IN THE
個
​H
convinced: and it was evident that his
suspicion had arisen from a belief, that every
white man must of necessity be a trader.
When I had delivered my presents, he
seemed well pleased, and was particularly
delighted with the umbrella, which he re-
peatedly furled and unfurled, to the great
admiration of himself and his two attend-
ants; who could not for some time com-
prehend the use of this wonderful machine.
After this I was about to take my leave,
when the king, desiring me to stop a while,
began a long preamble in favour of the
whites; extolling their immense wealth,
and good dispositions. He next proceeded
to an eulogium on my blue coat, of which
the yellow buttons seemed particularly to
catch his fancy; and he concluded by en-
treating me to present him with it; assuring
me, for my consolation under the loss of it,
that he would wear it on all public occa-
sions, and inform every one who saw it, of
my great liberality towards him. The re-
quest of an African prince, in his own domi-
nions, particularly when made to a stranger,
comes little short of a command. It is only
a way of obtaining by gentle means, what
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
81
he can, if he pleases, take by force; and as
it was against my interest to offend him by
a refusal, I very quietly took off my coat,
the only good one in my possession, and
laid it at his feet.
In return for my compliance, he pre-
sented me with great plenty of provisions,
and desired to see me again in the morn-
ing. I accordingly attended, and found
him sitting upon his bed. He told me he
was sick, and wished to have a little blood
taken from him; but I had no sooner tied
up his arm, and displayed the lancet, than
his courage failed; and he begged me to
postpone the operation till the afternoon,
as he felt himself, he said, much better than
he had been, and thanked me kindly for
my readiness to serve him. He then ob-
served, that his women were very desirous
to see me, and requested that I would favour
them with a visit. An attendant was or-
dered to conduct me; and I had no sooner
entered the court appropriated to the ladies,
than the whole seraglio surrounded me;
some begging for physic, some for amber;
and all of them desirous of trying that great
African specific, blood-letting. They were
G
82
TRAVELS IN THE
A
10 or 12 in number, most of them young
and handsome, and wearing on their heads
ornaments of gold, and beads of amber.
They rallied me with a good deal of
gaiety on different subjects; particularly
upon the whiteness of my skin, and the
prominency of my nose. They insisted that
both were artificial. The first, they said,
was produced when I was an infant, by
dipping me in milk; and they insisted that
my nose had been pinched every day, till
it had acquired its present unsightly and
unnatural conformation. On my part, with-
out disputing my own deformity, I paid
them many compliments on African beauty.
I praised the glossy jet of their skins, and
the lovely depression of their noses; but
they said that flattery, or (as they empha-
tically termed it) boney-mouth, was not
esteemed in Bondou. In return, however,
for my company or my compliments (to
which, by the way, they seemed not so
insensible as they affected to be), they pre-
sented me with a jar of honey and some fish,
which were sent to my lodging; and I was
desired to come again to the king a little
before sunset.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
83
I carried with me some beads and writing
paper, it being usual to present some small
offering on taking leave: in return for
which, the king gave me five drachms of
gold; observing, that it was but a trifle,
and given out of pure friendship; but
would be of use to me in travelling, for
the purchase of provisions. He seconded
this act of kindness by one still greater;
politely telling me, that though it was cus-
tomary to examine the baggage of every
traveller passing through his country, yet,
in the present instance, he would dispense
with that ceremony; adding, I was at
liberty to depart when I pleased.
Accordingly, on the morning of the 23d,
we left Fatteconda, and about eleven o'clock
came to a small village, where we deter-
mined to stop for the rest of the day.
In the afternoon my fellow travellers in-
formed me, that as this was the boundary
between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dan-
gerous for travellers, it would be necessary
to continue our journey by night, until
we should reach a more hospitable part of
the country. I agreed to the proposal, and
hired two people for guides through the
G 2
84
TRAVELS IN THE
woods; and as soon as the people of the
village were gone to sleep (the moon shin-
ing bright) we set out. The stillness of the
air, the howling of the wild beasts, and the
deep solitude of the forest, made the scene
solemn and impressive. Not a word was
uttered by any of us, but in a whisper; all
were attentive, and every one anxious to
shew his sagacity, by pointing out to me
the wolves and hyænas as they glided, like
shadows, from one thicket to another. To-
wards morning, we arrived at a village
called Kimmoo, where our guides awakened
one of their acquaintances, and we stopped
to give the asses some corn, and roast a
few ground-nuts for ourselves. At day-
light we resumed our journey, and in the
afternoon arrived at Joag in the kingdom
of Kajaaga.
Being now in a country, and among a
people, differing in many respects from
those that have as yet fallen under our ob-
servation, I shall, before I proceed further,
give some account of Bondou (the territory
we have left), and its inhabitants, the
Foulahs, the description of whom I pur-
posely reserved for this part of my work.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
85
Bondou is bounded on the east by Bam-
bouk; on the south-east, and south, by
Tenda, and the Simbani Wilderness; on
the south-west, by Woolli; on the west,
by Foota Torra; and on the north, by
Kajaaga.
The country, like that of Woolli, is very
generally covered with woods, but the land
is more elevated, and towards the Falemé
river, rises into considerable hills. In native
fertility the soil is not surpassed, I believe,
by any part of Africa.
From the central situation of Bondou,
between the Gambia and Senegal rivers, it
is become a place of great resort; both for
the Slatees, who generally pass through it,
in going from the coast to the interior
countries; and for occasional traders, who
frequently come hither from the inland
countries, to purchase salt.
These different branches of commerce
are conducted principally by Mandingoes
and Serawoollies, who have settled in the
country. These merchants likewise carry
on a considerable trade with Gedumah,
and other Moorish countries, bartering corn
and blue cotton clothes for salt; which
}
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TRAVELS IN THE
they again barter in Dentila and other
districts for iron, shea-butter, and small
quantities of gold-dust. They likewise sell
a variety of sweet smelling gums packed
up in small bags, containing each about a
pound. These gums, being thrown on hot
embers, produce a very pleasant odour, and
are used by the Mandingoes for perfuming
their huts and clothes.
The customs, or duties on travellers, are
very heavy; in almost every town an ass
load pays a bar of European merchandize;
and at Fatteconda, the residence of the
king, one Indian baft, or a musket, and
six bottles of gunpowder, are exacted as
the common tribute. By means of these
duties, the King of Bondou is well supplied
with arms and ammunition; a circumstance
which makes him formidable to the neigh-
bouring states.
The inhabitants differ in their com-
plexions and national manners from the
Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom
they are frequently at war.
Some years
ago the King of Bondou crossed the Fa-
lemé river with a numerous army, and
after a short and bloody campaign totally
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
87
defeated the forces of Samboo, King of
Bambouk, who was obliged to sue for peace,
and surrender to him all the towns along
the eastern bank of the Falemé.
The Foulahs in general (as has been
observed in a former Chapter) are of a
tawny complexion, with small features,
and soft silky hair; next to the Mandin-
goes they are undoubtedly the most con-
siderable of all the nations in this part of
Africa. Their original country is said to
be Fooladoo (which signifies the country
of the Foulahs); but they possess at present
many other kingdoms at a great distance
from each other: their complexion, how-
ever, is not exactly the same in the different
districts; in Bondou, and the other king-
doms which are situated in the vicinity of
the Moorish territories, they are of a more
yellow complexion than in the southern
states.
The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of
a mild and gentle disposition, but the un-
charitable maxims of the Koran have made
them less hospitable to strangers, and more
reserved in their behaviour than the Man-
dingoes. They evidently consider all the
88
TRAVELS IN THE
t
Negro natives as their inferiors; and when
talking of different nations, always rank
themselves among the white people.
Their government differs from that of
the Mandingoes chiefly in this, that they
are more immediately under the influence
of the Mahomedan laws; for all the chief
men (the king excepted) and a large majo-
rity of the inhabitants of Bondou, are Mus-
sulmen, and the authority and laws of the
Prophet, are every where looked upon as
sacred and decisive. In the exercise of
their faith, however, they are not very in-
tolerant towards such of their countrymen
as still retain their ancient superstitions.
Religious persecution is not known among
them, nor is it necessary; for the system
of Mahomet is made to extend itself by
means abundantly more efficacious. By
establishing small schools in the different
towns, where many of the Pagan as well
as Mahomedan children are taught to read
the Koran, and instructed in the tenets of
the Prophet, the Mahomedan priests fix a
bias on the minds, and form the character
of their young disciples, which no accidents
of life can ever afterwards remove or alter.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
89
Many of these little schools I visited in my
progress through the country, and observed
with pleasure the great docility and sub-
missive deportment of the children, and
heartily wished they had had better instruc-
tors, and a purer religion.
With the Mahomedan faith is also in-
troduced the Arabic language, with which
most of the Foulahs have a slight acquaint-
ance. Their native tongue abounds very
much in liquids, but there is something
unpleasant in the manner of pronouncing
it. A stranger on hearing the common
conversation of two Foulahs, would imagine
that they were scolding each other. Their
numerals are these:
One
Two
Go.
Deeddee.
Three
Tettee.
Four
Nee.
Five
Jouee.
Six
Seven
Eight
Nine
Jego.
Jedeeddee.
Je Tettee.
Je Nee.
Ten
Sappo.
+
90
TRAVELS IN THE
The industry of the Foulahs, in the oc-
cupations of pasturage and agriculture, is
every where remarkable. Even on the
banks of the Gambia, the greater part of
the corn is raised by them; and their herds
and flocks are more numerous and in better
condition than those of the Mandingoes;
but in Bondou they are opulent in a high
degree, and enjoy all the necessaries of life
in the greatest profusion. They display great
skill in the management of their cattle,
making them extremely gentle by kindness
and familiarity. On the approach of night,
they are collected from the woods, and
secured in folds, called korrees, which are
constructed in the neighbourhood of the
different villages. In the middle of each
korree is erected a small hut, wherein one
or two of the herdsmen keep watch during
the night to prevent the cattle from being
stolen, and to keep up the fires which are
kindled round the korree to frighten away
the wild beasts.
The cattle are milked in the mornings
and evenings: the milk is excellent; but
the quantity obtained from any one cow
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
91
is by no means so great as in Europe. The
Foulahs use the milk chiefly as an arti-
cle of diet, and that, not until it is quite
sour. The cream which it affords is very
thick, and is converted into butter by stir-
ring it violently in a large calabash. This
butter, when melted over a gentle fire, and
freed from impurities, is preserved in small
earthen pots, and forms a part in most of
their dishes; it serves likewise to anoint
their heads, and is bestowed very liberally
on their faces and arms.
But although milk is plentiful, it is
somewhat remarkable that the Foulahs,
and indeed all the inhabitants of this part
of Africa, are totally unacquainted with
the art of making cheese. A firm attach-
ment to the customs of their ancestors,
makes them view with an eye of prejudice
every thing that looks like innovation.
The heat of the climate and the great
scarcity of salt, are held forth as unan-
swerable objections; and the whole pro-
cess appears to them too long and trou-
blesome, to be attended with any solid
advantage.
92
TRAVELS IN THE
Besides the cattle, which constitute the
chief wealth of the Foulahs, they possess
some excellent horses, the breed of which
seems to be a mixture of the Arabian with
the original African.
1
INTERIOR OF africa.
98
CHAPTER V.
Account of Kajaaga - Serawoollies
Manners and Language.-Account of Joag.
The Author is ill treated, and robbed of
half of his Effects, by Order of Batcheri,
the King-Charity of a female Slave.-
The Author is visited by Demba Sego,
Nephew of the King of Kasson, who offers
to conduct him in safety to that Kingdom.
-Offer accepted.—The Author and his
Protector, with a numerous Retinue, set
out and reach Samee, on the Banks of the
Senegal.-Proceed to Kayee, and crossing
the Senegal, arrive in the Kingdom of
Kasson.
THE kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I was
now arrived, is called by the French, Gal-
lam; but the name that I have adopted
is universally used by the natives. This
country is bounded on the south-east and
94
TRAVELS IN THE
south by Bambouk; on the west by Bondou
and Foota Torra; and on the north by the
river Senegal.
The air and climate are, I believe, more
pure and salubrious than at any of the set-
tlements towards the coast; the face of
the country is every where interspersed
with a pleasing variety of hills and vallies;
and the windings of the Senegal river,
which descends from the rocky hills of the
interior, make the scenery on its banks very
picturesque and beautiful.
The inhabitants are called Serawoollies,
or (as the French write it) Seracolets.
Their complexion is a jet black: they are
not to be distinguished in this respect from
the Jaloffs.
The government is monarchical; and the
regal authority, from what I experienced
of it, seems to be sufficiently formidable.
The people themselves, however, complain
of no oppression; and seemed all very
anxious to support the king, in a contest
he was going to enter into with the sove-
reign of Kasson. The Serawoollies are
habitually a trading people; they formerly
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
95
carried on a great commerce with the
French, in gold and slaves, and still main-
tain some traffic in slaves with the British
factories on the Gambia. They are reckoned
tolerably fair and just in their dealings, but
are indefatigable in their exertions to ac-
quire wealth, and they derive considerable
profits by the sale of salt, and cotton cloth, in
distant countries. When a Serawoolli mer-
chant returns home from a trading expedi-
tion, the neighbours immediately assemble to
congratulate him upon his arrival. On these
occasions the traveller displays his wealth
and liberality, by making a few presents to
his friends; but if he has been unsuccess-
ful, his levee is soon over; and every one
looks upon him as a man of no understand-
ing, who could perform a long journey, and
(as they express it) bring back nothing but
the hair upon his head.
Their language abounds much in gut-
turals, and is not so harmonious as that
spoken by the Foulahs; it is, however,
well worth acquiring by those who travel
through this part of the African continent;
it being very generally understood in the
kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, Ludamar,
96*
TRAVELS IN THE
{
and the northern parts of Bambara. In all
these countries the Sera woollies are the
chief traders. Their numerals are,
One
Bani.
Two
Fillo.
Three
Sicco.
Four
Narrato.
Five
Karrago.
Six
Toomo.
Seven
Nero.
Eight
Sego.
Nine
Kabbo.
Ten
Twenty
Tamo.
Tamo di fillo.
We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of
this kingdom on the 24th of December;
and took up our residence at the house of
the chief man, who is here no longer
known by the title of Alkaid, but is called
the Dooty. He was a rigid Mahomedan,
but distinguished for his hospitality. This
town may be supposed, on a gross compu-
tation, to contain two thousand inhabitants.
It is surrounded by a high wall, in which
are a number of port holes, for musquetry
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
97
to fire through, in case of an attack. Every
man's possession is likewise surrounded by
a wall; the whole forming so many dis-
tinct citadels; and amongst a people unac-
quainted with the use of artillery, these
walls answer all the purposes of stronger
fortifications. To the westward of the town
is a small river, on the banks of which the
natives raise great plenty of tobacco and
onions.
The same evening Madiboo the Bushreen,
who had accompanied me from Pisania,
went to pay a visit to his father and mother,
who dwelt at a neighbouring town called
Dramanet. He was joined by my other
attendant the blacksmith; and as soon as
it was dark, I was invited to see the sports
of the inhabitants, it being their custom on
the arrival of strangers, to welcome them
by diversions of different kinds. I found a
great crowd surrounding a party who were
dancing by the light of some large fires to
the music of four drums, which were beat
with great exactness and uniformity. The
dances, however, consisted more in wanton
gestures, than in muscular exertion or
graceful attitudes. The ladies vied with
H
!
98
TRAVELS IN THE
each other in displaying the most voluptu-
ous movements imaginable.
December 25th. About two o'clock in
the morning a number of horsemen came
into the town, and having awakened my
landlord, talked to him for some time in
the Serawoolli tongue; after which they
dismounted, and came to the Bentang on
which I had made my bed. One of them
thinking that I was asleep, attempted to
steal the musket that lay by me on the
mat; but finding that he could not effect
his purpose undiscovered, he desisted; and
the strangers sat down by me till daylight.
I could now easily perceive, by the coun-
tenance of my interpreter, Johnson, that
something very unpleasant was in agita-
tion. I was likewise surprised to see Ma-
diboo and the blacksmith so soon returned.
On inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed
me that as they were dancing at Dramanet,
ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, king
of the country, with his second son at their
head, had arrived there, inquiring if the
white man had passed; and on being told
that I was at Joag, they rode off without
stopping. Madiboo added, that on hearing
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
99
}
this, he and the blacksmith hastened back
to give me notice of their coming.-
Whilst I was listening to this narrative,
the ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo
arrived; and coming to the Bentang, dis-
mounted and seated themselves with those
who had come before, the whole being
about twenty in number, forming a circle
round me, and each man holding his mus-
ket in his hand. I took this opportunity
to observe to my landlord, that as I did
not understand the Serawoolli tongue, I
hoped, whatever the men had to say, they
would speak in Mandingo. To this they
agreed; and a short man, loaded with a
remarkable number of saphies, opened the
business in a very long harangue, inform-
ing me that I had entered the king's town
without having first paid the duties, or
giving any present to the ki 3. and that,
according to the laws of the country, my
people, cattle, and baggage, were forfeited.
He added, that they had received orders.
from the king to conduct me to Maana,*
* Maana is within a short distance of the ruins of
Fort St. Joseph, on the Senegal river, formerly a French
factory.
H 2
*
3
*
"
100
TRAVELS IN THE
the place of his residence; and if I refused
to come with them, their orders were to
bring me by force; upon his saying which,
all of them rose up and asked me if I was
ready. It would have been equally vain
and imprudent in me to have resisted or
irritated such a body of men; I therefore
affected to comply with their commands,
and begged them only to stop a little until
I had given my horse a feed of corn, and
settled matters with my landlord. The
poor blacksmith, who was a native of Kas-
son, mistook this feigned compliance for a
real intention, and taking me away from
the company, told me, that he had always
behaved towards me as if I had been his
father and master; and he hoped I would
not entirely ruin him, by going to Maana;
adding, that as there was every reason to
believe a war would soon take place be-
tween Kasson and Kajaaga, he should not
only lose his little property, the savings of
four year's industry, but should certainly
be detained and sold as a slave, unless his
friends had an opportunity of paying two
slaves for his redemption. I saw this rea-
soning in its full force, and determined
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
101
to do my utmost to preserve the blacksmith
from so dreadful a fate. I therefore told
the king's son that I was ready to go with
him, upon condition that the blacksmith,
who was an inhabitant of a distant kingdom,
and entirely unconnected with me, should
be allowed to stay at Joag till my return: to
this they all objected; and insisted, that as
we had all acted contrary to the laws, we
were all equally answerable for our conduct.
I now took my landlord aside, and giving
him a small present of gunpowder, asked
his advice in so critical a situation: he
was decidedly of opinion that I ought not
to go to the king: he was fully convinced,
he said, that if the king should discover
any thing valuable in my possession, he
would not be over scrupulous about the
means of obtaining it. This made me
the more solicitous to conciliate matters
with the king's people; and I began by
observing, that what I had done did not
proceed from any want of respect towards
the king, nor from any wish to violate his
laws, but wholly from my own inexperience
and ignorance, being a stranger, totally
unacquainted with the laws and customs
102
TRAVELS IN THE
of their country: I had indeed entered the
king's frontier, without knowing that I was
to pay the duties beforehand, but I was
ready to pay them now: which I thought
was all they could reasonably demand. I
then tendered them, as a present to the
king, the five drachms of gold which the
King of Bondou had given me this they
accepted, but insisted on examining my
baggage, which I opposed in vain. The
bundles were opened; but the men were
much disappointed in not finding in them
so much gold and amber as they expected:
they made up the deficiency, however, by
taking whatever things they fancied; and
after wrangling and debating with me till
sunset, they departed; having first robbed
me of half my goods. These proceedings
dispirited my people, and our fortitude was
not strengthened by a very indifferent
supper, after a long fast. Madiboo begged
me to turn back; Johnson laughed at the
thoughts of proceeding without money, and
the blacksmith was afraid to be seen, or
even to speak, lest any one should discover
him to be a nasive of Kasson. In this dis-
position we passed the night by the side of
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
103
a dim fire, and our situation the next day
was very perplexing: it was impossible to
procure provisions without money, and I
knew that if I produced any beads or am-
ber, the king would immediately hear of it,
and I should probably lose the few effects
I had concealed. We therefore resclved to
combat hunger for the day, and wait some
favourable opportunity of purchasing or
begging provisions.
Towards evening, as I was sitting upon
the Bentang, chewing straws, an old female
slave, passing by with a basket upon her
head, asked me if I had got my dinner. As
I thought she only laughed at me, I gave
her no answer; but my boy, who was sit-
ting close by, answered for me; and told
her, that the King's people had robbed me
of all my money. On hearing this, the
good old woman, with a look of unaffected
benevolence, immediately took the basket
from her head, and shewing me that it con-
tained ground nuts, asked me if I could eat
them, being answered in the affirmative,
she presented me with a few handfuls, and
walked away, before I had time to thank
her for this seasonable supply. This trifling
104
TRAVELS IN THE
circumstance gave me peculiar satisfaction.
I reflected with pleasure on the conduct of
this poor untutored slave, who, without
examining into my character or circum-
stances, listened implicitly to the dictates
of her own heart. Experience had taught
her that hunger was painful, and her own
distresses made her commiserate those of
others.
The old woman had scarcely left me,
when I received information that a nephew
of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo King
of Kasson, was coming to pay me a visit.
He had been sent on an embassy to Bat-
cheri, King of Kajaaga, to endeavour to
settle the disputes which had arisen be-
tween his uncle and the latter; but after
debating the matter four days without suc-
cess, he was now on his return; and hear-
ing that a white man was at Joag, in his
way to Kasson, curiosity brought him to see
me. I represented to him my situation
and distresses; when he frankly offered
me his protection, and said he would be
my guide to Kasson (provided I would set
out the next morning), and be answerable
for my safety. I readily and gratefully
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
105
accepted his offer; and was ready, with my
attendants, by daylight on the morning of
the 27th of December.
My protector, whose name was Demba
Sego, probably after his uncle, had a nu-
merous retinue. Our company at leaving
Joag, consisted of thirty persons and six
loaded asses; and we rode on cheerfully
enough for some hours, without any re-
markable occurrence, until we came to a
species of tree, for which my interpreter,
Johnson, had made frequent inquiry. On
finding it, he desired us to stop; and pro-
ducing a white chicken, which he had pur-
chased at Joag for the purpose, he tied it
by the leg to one of the branches, and then
told us we might now safely proceed, for
that our journey would be prosperous.
This circumstance is mentioned merely to
illustrate the disposition of the Negroes,
and to shew the power of superstition over
their minds; for although this man had
resided seven years in England, it was
evident that he still retained the prejudices
and notions he had imbibed in his youth.
He meant this ceremony, he told me, as
an offering, or sacrifice, to the spirits of
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the woods: who were, he said, a power-
ful race of beings of a white colour, with
long flowing hair. I laughed at his folly,
but could not condemn the piety of his
motives.
At noon we had reached Gungadi, a
large town, where we stopped about an
hour, until some of the asses that had fallen
behind came up. Here I observed a num-
ber of date trees, and a mosque built of
clay, with six turrets, on the pinnacles of
which were placed six ostrich eggs. A little
before sunset we arrived at the town of
Samee, on the banks of the Senegal, which
is here a beautiful, but shallow river, mov-
ing slowly over a bed of sand and gravel.
The banks are high, and covered with
verdure; the country is open and culti-
vated; and the rocky hills of Felow and
Bambouk, add much to the beauty of the
landscape.
December 28. We departed from Sa-
mee, and arrived in the afternoon at Kayee,
a large village, part of which is situated
on the north, and part on the south side
of the river. A little above this place is
a considerable cataract, where the river
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
107
flows over a ledge of whin-stone rock, with
great force: below this, the river is remark-
ably black and deep; and here it was pro-
posed to make our cattle swim over. After
hollooing, and firing some muskets, the
people on the Kasson side observed us, and
brought over a canoe to carry our baggage.
I did not, however, think it possible to get
the cattle down the bank, which is here
more than forty feet above the water; but
the Negroes seized the horses, and launch-
ed them one at a time, down a sort of
trench or gully, that was almost perpen-
dicular, and seemed to have been worn
smooth by this sort of use. After the ter-
rified cattle had been plunged in this man-
ner to the water's edge, every man got
down as well as he could. The ferryman
then taking hold of the most steady of the
horses by a rope, led him into the water,
and paddled the canoe a little from the
brink; upon which a general attack com-
menced upon the other horses, who find-
ing themselves pelted and kicked on all
sides, unanimously plunged into the river,
and followed their companion. A few boys
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swam in after them; and by laving water
upon them when they attempted to re-
turn, urged them onwards; and we had
the satisfaction in about fifteen minutes,
to see them all safe on the other side. It
was a matter of greater difficulty to ma-
nage the asses: their natural stubbornness
of disposition made them endure a great
deal of pelting and shoving before they
would venture into the water; and when
they had reached the middle of the stream,
four of them turned back, in spite of every
exertion to get them forwards. Two hours
were spent in getting the whole of them
over; an hour more was employed in trans-
porting the baggage; and it was near
sunset before the canoe returned, when
Demba Sego and myself embarked in this
dangerous passage-boat, which the least
motion was like to overset. The king's
nephew thought this a proper time to have
a peep into a tin box of mine, that stood in
the fore part of the canoe; and in stretch-
ing out his hand for it, he unfortunately
destroyed the equilibrium, and overset the
canoe. Luckily we were not far advanced,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
109
1
and got back to the shore without much
difficulty; from whence, after wringing the
water from our clothes, we took a fresh
departure, and were soon afterwards safely
landed in Kasson.
}
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CHAPTER VI.
Arrival at Teesee.-Interview with Tiggity
Sego, the King's Brother-the Author's
Detention at Teesee-some Account of that
Place and its Inhabitants-Incidents which
occurred there. - Rapacious Conduct of
Tiggity Sego toward the Author on his
Departure.-Sets out for Kooniakary, the
Capital of the Kingdom.—Incidents on the
Road, and Arrival at Kooniakary.
WE no sooner found ourselves safe in
Kasson, than Demba Sego told me that
we were now in his uncle's dominions, and
he hoped I would consider, being now out
of danger, the obligation I owed to him,
and make him a suitable return for the
trouble he had taken on my account by a
handsome present. This, as he knew how
much had been pilfered from me at Joag,
was rather an unexpected proposition; and
I began to fear that I had not much im-
proved my condition by crossing the water;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
111
but as it would have been folly to complain,
I made no observation upon his conduct,
and gave him seven bars of amber, and
some tobacco; with which he seemed to be
content.
After a long day's journey, in the course
of which I observed a number of large loose
nodules of white granite, we arrived at
Teesee on the evening of Dec. 29th, and
were accommodated in Demba Sego's hut.
The next morning he introduced me to his
father Tiggity Sego, brother to the King
of Kasson, chief of Teesee. The old man
viewed me with great earnestness, having
never, he said, beheld but one white man
before, whom by his description I imme-
diately knew to be Major Houghton. I
related to him, in answer to his inquiries,
the motives that induced me to explore the
country. But he seemed to doubt the truth
of what I asserted; thinking, I believe, that
I secretly meditated some project which I
was afraid to avow. He told me, it would
be necessary I should go to Kooniakary,
the residence of the king, to pay my re-
spects to that prince; but desired me to
come to him again before I left Teesee.
+
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7
1
In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped;
and a general alarm being given, every
person that had a horse rode into the woods,
in the hopes of apprehending him; and
Demba Sego begged the use of my horse
for the same purpose. I readily consented;
and in about an hour they all returned with
the slave, who was severely flogged, and
afterwards put in irons. On the day fol-
lowing (Dec. 31.) Demba Sego was ordered
to go
with twenty horsemen to a town in
Gedumah, to adjust some dispute with the
Moors, a party of whom were supposed to
to have stolen three horses from Teesee.
Demba begged, a second time, the use of
my horse; adding, that the sight of my
bridle and saddle would give him conse-
quence among the Moors. This request
also I readily granted, and he promised to
return at the end of three days. During
his absence I amused myself with walking
about the town, and conversing with the
natives, who attended me every where
with great kindness and curiosity, and sup-
plied me with milk, eggs, and what other
provisions I wanted, on very easy terms.
Teesee is a large unwalled town, having
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
113
no security against the attack of an enemy,
except a sort of citadel, in which Tiggity
and his family constantly reside. This
town, according to the report of the natives,
was formerly inhabited only by a few Fou-
lah shepherds, who lived in considerable
affluence, by means of the excellent mea-
dows in the neighbourhood, in which they
reared great herds of cattle. But their pro-
sperity attracting the envy of some Man-
dingoes, the latter drove out the shepherds,
and took possession of their lands.
The present inhabitants, though they
possess both cattle and corn in abundance,
are not over nice in articles of diet; rats,
moles, squirrels, snakes, locusts, &c. are
eaten without scruple by the highest and
lowest. My people were one evening in-
vited to a feast given by some of the towns-
men, where, after making a hearty meal of
what they thought fish and kouskous, one
of them found a piece of hard skin in the
dish, and brought it along with him, to
shew me what sort sort of fish they had
been eating. On examining the skin, I
found they had been feasting on a large
snake. Another custom still more extraor-
I
1
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dinary is, that no woman is allowed to eat
an egg. This prohibition, whether aris-
ing from ancient superstition, or from the
craftiness of some old Bushreen who loved
eggs himself, is rigidly adhered to, and no-
thing will more affront a woman of Teesee
than to offer her an egg. The custom is the
more singular, as the men eat eggs without
scruple in the presence of their wives, and
I never observed the same prohibition in
any other of the Mandingo countries.
The third day after his son's departure,
Tiggity Sego held a palaver on a very ex-
traordinary occasion, which I attended;
and the debates on both sides of the ques-
tion displayed much ingenuity. The case
was this. A young man, a Kafir, of consi-
derable affluence, who had recently married
a young and handsome wife, applied to a
very devout Bushreen, or Mussulman priest,
of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies
for his protection during the approaching
war. The Bushreen complied with the
request; and in order, as he pretended, to
render the saphies more efficacious, en-
joined the young man to avoid any nuptial
intercourse with his bride for the space of
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
115
six weeks. Severe as the injunction was,
the Kafir strictly obeyed; and without
telling his wife the real cause, absented
himself from her company. In the mean
time it began to be whispered at Teesee,
that the Bushreen, who always performed
his evening devotions at the door of the
Kafir's hut, was more intimate with the
young wife than he ought to be. At first,
the good husband was unwilling to suspect
the honour of his sanctified friend, and one
whole month elapsed before any jealousy
rose in his mind; but hearing the charge
repeated, he at last interrogated his wife
on the subject, who frankly confessed that
the Bushreen had seduced her. Hereupon
the Kafir put her into confinement, and
called a palaver upon the Bushreen's con-
duct. The fact was clearly proved against
him; and he was sentenced to be sold into
slavery, or to find two slaves for his re-
demption, according to the pleasure of the
complainant. The injured husband, how-
ever, was unwilling to proceed against his
friend to such extremity, and desired rather
to have him publicly flogged before Tiggity
Sego's gate. This was agreed to, and the
$
I 2
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TRAVELS IN THE
sentence was immediately executed. The
culprit was tied by the hands to a strong
stake; and a long black rod being brought
forth, the executioner, after flourishing it
round his head for some time, applied it
with such force and dexterity to the Bush-
reen's back, as to make him roar until the
woods resounded with his screams. The
surrounding multitude, by their hooting
and laughing, manifested how much they
enjoyed the punishment of this old gallant;
and it is worthy of remark, that the number
of stripes was precisely the same as are en-
joined by the Mosaic law, forty, save one.
As there appeared great probability that
Teesee, from its being a frontier town,
would be much exposed, during the war,
to the predatory excursions of the Moors
of Gadumah, Tiggity Sego had, before my
arrival, sent round to the neighbouring
villages, to beg or to purchase as much
provisions as would afford subsistence to
the inhabitants for one whole year, inde-
pendently of the crop on the ground, which
the Moors might destroy. This project was
well received by the country people, and
they fixed a day on which to bring all the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
117
provisions they could spare to Teesee, and
as my horse was not yet returned, I went,
in the afternoon of January 4th, 1796, to
meet the escort with the provisions.
It was composed of about 400 men,
marching in good order, with corn and
ground nuts in large calabashes upon their
heads. They were preceded by a strong
guard of bowmen, and followed by eight
musicians or singing men. As soon as
they approached the town, the latter began
a song, every verse of which was answered
by the company, and succeeded by a few
strokes on the large drums. In this manner
they proceeded, amidst the acclamations of
the populace, till they reached the house
of Tiggity Sego, where the loads were
deposited; and in the evening they all
assembled under the Bentang tree, and
spent the night in dancing and merriment.
Many of these strangers remained at Tee-
see for three days, during which time I was
constantly attended by as many of them
as could conveniently see me; one party
giving way to another, as soon as curiosity
was gratified.
On the 5th of January an embassy of ten
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people belonging to Almami Abdulkader,
King of Foota Torra, a country to the
west of Bondou, arrived at Teesee; and
desiring Tiggity Sego to call an assembly
of the inhabitants, announced publicly their
king's determination, to this effect: "That
unless all the people of Kasson would em-
brace the Mahomedan religion, and evince
their conversion by saying eleven public
prayers, he (the King of Foota Torra)
could not possibly stand neuter in the pre-
sent contest, but would certainly join his
arms to those of Kajaaga." A message of
this nature, from so powerful a prince, could
not fail to create great alarm; and the in-
habitants of Teesee, after a long consulta-
tion, agreed to conform to his good pleasure,
humiliating as it was to them. Accord-
ingly, one and all publicly offered up eleven
prayers, which were considered a sufficient
testimony of their having renounced Pa-
ganism, and embraced the doctrines of the
Prophet.
It was the 8th of January before Demba
Sego returned with my horse; and being
quite wearied out with the delay, I went
immediately to inform his father, that I
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
119
should set out for Kooniakary early the
next day. The old man made many fri-
volous objections; and at length gave me
to understand, that I must not think of de-
parting, without first paying him the same
duties he was entitled to receive from all
travellers; besides which, he expected, he
said, some acknowledgment for his kind-
ness towards me. Accordingly, on the
morning of the 9th, my friend Demba,
with a number of people, came to me, and
said that they were sent by Tiggity Sego
for my present, and wished to see what
goods I had appropriated for that purpose.
I knew that resistance was hopeless, and
complaint unavailing; and being in some
measure prepared, by the intimation I had
received the night before, I quietly offered
him seven bars of amber, and five of to-
bacco. After surveying these articles for
some time very coolly, Demba laid them
down, and told me, this was not a present
for a man of Tiggity Sego's consequence,
who had it in his power to take whatever
he pleased from me. He added, that if I
did not consent to make him a larger offer-
ing, he would carry all my baggage to his
120
TRAVELS IN THE
:
father, and let him choose for himself. I
had no time for reply; for Demba and his
attendants immediately began to open my
bundles, and spread the different articles
upon the floor, where they underwent a
more strict examination than they had done
at Joag. Every thing that pleased them,
they took without scruple; and amongst
other things, Demba seized the tin box,
which had so much attracted his attention
in crossing the river. Upon collecting the
scattered remains of my little fortune after
these people had left me, I found that, as at
Joag, I had been plundered of half, so here,
without even the shadow of accusation, I
was deprived of half the remander. The
blacksmith himself, though a native of Kas-
son, had also been compelled to open his
bundles, and take an oath that the different
articles they contained were his own ex-
clusive property. There was, however, no
remedy; and having been under some ob-
ligation to Demba Sego for his attention
towards me in the journey from Joag, I
did not reproach him for his rapacity, but
determined to quit Teesee at all events
the next morning. In the meanwhile, in
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
121
order to raise the drooping spirits of my
attendants, I purchased a fat sheep, and
had it dressed for our dinner,
Early in the morning of January 10th,
therefore, I left Teesee, and about mid-
day ascended a ridge, from whence we had
a distant view of the hills round Koonia-
kary. In the evening we reached a small
village, where we slept, and departing
from thence the next morning, crossed in
a few hours a narrow but deep stream
called Krieko, a branch of the Senegal.
About two miles farther to the eastward,
we passed a large town called Madina;
and at two o'clock came in sight of Jumbo,
the blacksmith's native town, from whence
he had been absent more than four years.
Soon after this his brother, who had by
some means been apprized of his coming,
came out to meet him, accompanied by a
singing man he brought a horse for the
blacksmith, that he might enter his native
town in a dignified manner; and he de-
sired each of us to put a good charge of
powder into our guns. The singing man
now led the way, followed by the two bro-
thers; and we were presently joined by
-
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TRAVELS IN THE
a number of people from the town, all of
whom demonstrated great joy at seeing
their old acquaintance the blacksmith, by
the most extravagant jumping and singing.
On entering the town, the singing man
began an extempore song in praise of the
blacksmith, extolling his courage in having
overcome so many difficulties; and con-
cluding with a strict injunction to his
friends to dress him plenty of victuals.
When we arrived at the blacksmith's
place of residence, we dismounted and fired
our muskets. The meeting between him
and his relations was very tender; for these
rude children of nature, free from restraint,
display their emotions in the strongest
and most expressive manner. Amidst these
transports, the blacksmith's aged mother
was led forth, leaning upon a staff. Every
one made way for her; and she stretched
out her hand to bid her son welcome.
Being totally blind, she stroked his hands,
arms, and face, with great care, and seemed
highly delighted that her latter days were
blessed by his return, and that her ears
once more heard the music of his voice.
From this interview I was fully convinced,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
123
that whatever difference there is between
the Negro and European in the confor-
*mation of the nose and the colour of the
skin, there is none in the genuine sym-
pathies and characteristic feelings of our
common nature.
During the tumult of these congratula-
tions, I had seated myself apart, by the side
of one of the huts, being unwilling to in-
terrupt the flow of filial and parental ten-
derness; and the attention of the company
was so entirely taken up with the black-
smith, that I believe none of his friends
had observed me. When all the people pre-
sent had seated themselves, the blacksmith
was desired by his father to give them some
account of his adventures; and silence be-
ing commanded, he began; and after re-
peatedly thanking God for the success that
had attended him, related every material
occurrence that had happened to him from
his leaving Kasson to his arrival at the
Gambia; his employment and success in
those parts; and the dangers he had escaped
in returning to his native country. In the
latter part of his narration, he had fre-
quently occasion to mention me ; and after
1
124
TRAVELS IN THE
}
many strong expressions concerning my
kindness to him, he pointed to the place
where I sat, and exclaimed, affille ibi siring,
"see him sitting there." In a moment all
eyes were turned upon me; I appeared like
a being dropped from the clouds; every
one was surprised that they had not ob-
served me before; and a few women and
children expressed great uneasiness at be-
ing so near a man of such an uncommon
appearance. By degrees, however, their
apprehensions subsided; and when the
blacksmith assured them that I was per-
fectly inoffensive, and would hurt nobody,
some of them ventured so far as to exa-
mine the texture of my clothes; but many
of them were still very suspicious; and
when by accident I happened to move my-
self, or look at the young children, their
mothers would scamper off with them with
the greatest precipitation. In a few hours,
however, they all became reconciled to me.
With these worthy people I spent the
remainder of that, and the whole of the
ensuing day, in feasting and merriment;
and the blacksmith declared he would not
quit me during my stay at Kooniakary,
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
125
for which place we set out early on the
morning of the 14th of January, and ar-
rived about the middle of the day at Soolo,
a small village three miles to the south
of it.
As this place was somewhat out of the
direct road, it is necessary to observe, that
I went thither to visit a Slatee, or Gambia
trader, of great note and reputation, named
Salim Daucari. He was well known to
Dr. Laidley, who had trusted him with
effects to the value of five slaves, and had
given me an order for the whole of the
debt. We luckily found him at home, and
he received me with great kindness and
attention.
It is remarkable, however, that the King
of Kasson was, by some means, immediately
apprized of my motions; for I had been
at Soolo but a few hours, before Sambo
Sego, his second son, came thither with a
party of horse, to inquire what had pre-
vented me from proceeding to Kooniakary,
and waiting immediately upon the king,
who, he said, was impatient to see me.
Salim Daucari made my apology, and pro-
mised to accompany me to Kooniakary the
126
TRAVELS IN THE
.
same evening: we accordingly departed
from Soolo at sunset, and in about an hour
entered Kooniakary. But as the king had
gone to sleep, we deferred the interview
till next morning, and slept at the hut of
Sambo Sego.
My interview with the king, and the in-
cidents which occurred to me in the king-
doms of Kasson and Kaarta, will be the
subject of the ensuing Chapter.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
127
CHAPTER VII.
The Author admitted to an Audience of the
King of Kasson, whom he finds well dis-
posed towards him.—Incidents during the
Author's stay at Kooniakary.-Departs
thence for Kemmoo, the Capital of Kaarta.
-Is received with great Kindness by the
King of Kaarta, who dissuades him from
prosecuting his Journey, on Account of
approaching Hostilities with the King of
Bambarra.-The Author determines, not-
withstanding, to proceed; and the usual
Routes being obstructed, takes the Path to
Ludamar, a Moorish Kingdom.-Is accom-
modated by the King with a Guide to Farra,
the frontier Town of the Moorish Territo-
ries; and sets out for that Place, accompa-
nied by three of the King's Sons, and 200
Horsemen.
ABOUT eight o'clock in the morning of
January 15, 1796, we went to an audience
of the king (Demba Sego Jalla); but the
128
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crowd of people to see me was so great,
that I could scarcely get admittance. A
passage being at length obtained, I made
my bow to the monarch, whom we found
sitting upon a mat, in a large hut: he ap-
peared to be a man of about sixty years of
age: his success in war, and the mildness.
of his behaviour in time of peace, had much
endeared him to all his subjects. He sur-
veyed me with great attention; and when
Salim Daucari explained to him the object
of my journey, and my reasons for passing
through his country, the good old king
appeared not only perfectly satisfied, but
promised me every assistance in his power.
He informed me that he had seen Major
Houghton, and presented him with a white
horse; but that after crossing the kingdom
of Kaarta, he had lost his life among the
Moors; in what manner he could not in-
form me. When this audience was ended
we returned to our lodging, and I made up
a small present for the king, out of the few
effects that were left me; for I had not
yet received any thing from Salim Daucari.
This present, though inconsiderable in it-
self, was well received by the king, who
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
129
sent me in return a large white bullock.
The sight of this animal quite delighted my
attendants; not so much on account of its
bulk, as from its being of a white colour ;
which is considered as a particular mark of
favour. But although the king himself
was well disposed towards me, and readily
granted me permission to pass through his
territories, I soon discovered that very great
and unexpected obstacles were likely to
impede my progress. Besides the war which
was on the point of breaking out between
Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told that the
next kingdom of Kaarta, through which
my route lay, was involved in the issue;
and was furthermore threatened with hosti-
lities on the part of Bambarra. The king
himself informed me of these circumstances;
and advised me to stay in the neighbour-
hood of Kooniakary, till such time as he
could procure proper information respect-
ing Bambarra, which he expected to do in
the course of four or five days, as he had
already, he said, sent four messengers into
Kaarta for that purpose. I readily sub-
mitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo,
to stay there till the return of one of those
K
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messengers. This afforded me a favourable
opportunity of receiving what money Salim
Daucari could spare me on Dr. Laidley's
account. I succeeded in receiving the value
of three slaves, chiefly in gold dust; and
being anxious to proceed as quickly as pos-
sible, I begged Daucari to use his interest
with the king to allow me a guide by the
way of Fooladoo, as I was informed that
the war had already commenced between
the Kings of Bambarra and Kaarta. Dau-
cari accordingly set out for Kooniakary on,
the morning of the 20th, and the same
evening returned with the king's answer,
which was to this purpose; that the king
had, many years ago, made an agreement
with Daisey, King of Kaarta, to send all
merchants and travellers through his domi-
nions; but that if I wished to take the
route through Fooladoo, I had his permis-
tion so to do; though he could not, consist-
ently with his agreement, lend me a guide.
Having felt the want of regal protection in
a former part of my journey, I was unwil-
ling to hazard a repetition of the hardships
I had then experienced, especially as the
money I had received was probably the last
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
131
supply that I should obtain; I therefore
determined to wait for the return of the
messengers from Kaarta.
In the interim, it began to be whispered
abroad that I had received plenty of gold
from Salim Daucari; and on the morning
of the 23d, Sambo Sego paid me a visit
with a party of horsemen. He insisted upon
knowing the exact amount of the money I
had obtained; declaring, that whatever the
sum was, one half of it must go to the
king; besides which, he intimated that he
expected a handsome present for himself,
as being the king's son; and for his attend-
ants, as being the king's relations. The
reader will easily perceive, that if all these
demands had been satisfied, I should not
have been overburthened with money; but
though it was very mortifying to me to
comply with the demands of injustice, and
so arbitrary an exaction, yet, thinking it
was highly dangerous to make a foolish
resistance, and irritate the lion when within
the reach of his paw, I prepared to submit;
and if Salim Daucari had not interposed,
all my endeavours to mitigate this oppres-
sive claim would have been of no avail.
K 2
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TRAVELS IN THE
+
Salim at last prevailed upon Sambo to ac-
cept sixteen bars of European merchandize,
and some powder and ball, as a complete
payment of every demand that could be
made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson.
January 26th, in the forenoon, I went to
the top of a high hill to the southward of
Soolo, where I had a most enchanting pro-
spect of the country. The number of towns
and villages, and the extensive cultivation
around them, surpassed every thing I had
yet seen in Africa. A gross calculation
may be formed of the number of inhabi-
tants in this delightful plain, by consider-
ing, that the King of Kasson can raise four
thousand fighting men by the sound of his
war drum. In traversing the rocky emi-
nences of this hill, which are almost desti-
tute of vegetation, I observed a number of
large holes in the crevices and fissures of
the rocks, where the wolves and hyenas
take refuge during the day. Some of these
animals paid us a visit on the evening of
the 27th; their approach was discovered by
the dogs of the village; and on this occa-
sion it is remarkable, that the dogs did not
bark, but howl in the most dismal manner.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
133
The inhabitants of the village no sooner
heard them than, knowing the cause, they
armed themselves; and providing bunches
of dry grass, went in a body to the inclo-
sure in the middle of the village where the
cattle were kept. Here they lighted the
bunches of grass, and, waving them to and
fro, ran hooping and hallooing towards the
hills. This manoeuvre had the desired effect
of frightening the wolves away from the
village; but on examination, we found that
they had killed five of the cattle, and torn
and wounded many others.
February 1st. The messengers arrived
from Kaarta, and brought intelligence that
the war had not yet commenced between
Bambarra and Kaarta, and that I might
probably pass through Kaarta before the
Bambarra army invaded that country.
Feb. 3d. Early in the morning, two
guides on horseback came from Kooniakary
to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta.
I accordingly took leave of Salim Daucari,
and parted for the last time from my fel-
low-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind
solicitude for my welfare had been so con-
spicuous; and about ten o'clock departed
134
TRAVELS IN THE
#
from Soolo. We travelled this day through
a rocky and hilly country, along the banks
of the river Krieko, and at sunset came to
the village of Soomo, where we slept.
Feb. 4th. We departed from Soomo,
and continued our route along the banks
of the Krieko, which are every where well
cultivated, and swarm with inhabitants.
At this time they were increased by the
number of people that had flown thither
from Kaarta, on account of the Bambarra
war. In the afternoon we reached Kimo, a
large village, the residence of Madi Konko,
governor of the hilly country of Kasson,
which is called Sorroma. From hence the
guides appointed by the King of Kasson
returned, to join in the expedition against
Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th, before
I could prevail on Madi Konko to appoint
me a guide to Kaarta.
Feb. 7th. Departing from Kimo, with
Madi Konko's son as a guide, we continued
our course along the banks of the Krieko
until the afterhoon, when we arrived at
Kangee, a considerable town. The Krieko
is here but a small rivulet; this beautiful
stream takes its rise a little to the eastward
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
135
of this town, and descends with a rapid and
noisy current until it reaches the bottom
of the high hill called Tappa, where it
becomes more placid, and winds gently
through the lovely plains of Kooniakary ;
after which, having received an additional
branch from the north, it is lost in the
Senegal, somewhere near the falls of Felow.
Feb. 8th. This day we travelled over a
rough stony country, and having passed
Seimpo and a number of other villages,
arrived in the afternoon at Lackarago, a
small village which stands upon the ridge
of hills that separates the kingdoms of
Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of the
day we passed many hundreds of people
flying from Kaarta, with their families and
effects.
Feb. 9th. Early in the morning, we
departed from Lackarago, and a little to
the eastward came to the brow of a hill,
from whence we had an extensive view of
the country. Towards the south-east were
perceived some very distant hills, which
our guide told us were the mountains of
Fooladoo. We travelled with great diffi-
culty down a stony and abrupt precipice,
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TRAVELS IN THE
and continued our way in the bed of a dry
river course; where the trees, meeting over
head, inade the place dark and cool. In
a little time we reached the bottom of
this romantic glen, and about ten o'clock
emerged from between two rocky hills,
and found ourselves on the level and sandy
plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a
Korree, or watering-place, where, for a few
strings of beads, I purchased as much milk
and corn-meal as we could eat; indeed
provisions are here so cheap, and the shep-
herds live in such affluence, that they
seldom ask any return for what refreshments
a traveller receives from them. From this
Koorree, we reached Feesurah at sunset,
where we took up our lodging for the
night.
Feb. 10th. We continued at Feesurah
all this day, to have a few clothes washed,
and learn more exactly the situation of
affairs before we ventured towards the
capital.
Feb. 11th. Our landlord, taking advan-
tage of the unsettled state of the country,
demanded so extravagant a sum for our
lodging, that suspecting he wished for an
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
137
opportunity to quarrel with us, I refused to
subunit to his exorbitant demand; but my
attendants were so much frightened at the
reports of approaching war, that they re-
fused to proceed any farther, unless I could
settle matters with him, and induce him to
accompany us to Kemmoo, for our protec-
tion on the road. This I accomplished with
some difficulty, and by a present of a blanket
which I had brought with me to sleep in,
and for which our landlord had conceived
a very great liking, matters were at length
amicably adjusted, and he mounted his horse
and led the way. He was one of those
Negroes who, together with the ceremonial
part of the Mahomedan religion, retain all
their ancient superstitions, and even drink
strong liquors. They are called Johars, or
Jowers, and in this kingdom form a very
numerous and powerful tribe. We had no
sooner got into a dark and lonely part of
the first wood, than he made a sign for us
to stop, and taking hold of a hollow piece
of bamboo, that hung as an amulet round
his neck, whistled very loud, three times.
I confess I was somewhat startled, thinking
it was a signal for some of his companions
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TRAVELS IN THE
1
to come and attack us; but he assured me
that it was done merely with a view to
ascertain what success we were likely to
meet with on our present journey. He then
dismounted, laid his spear across the road,
and having said a number of short prayers,
concluded with three loud whistles; after
which he listened for some time, as if in
expectation of an answer, and receiving
none, told us we might proceed without
fear, for there was no danger. About noon
we passed a number of large villages quite
deserted, the inhabitants having fled into
Kasson to avoid the horrors of war. We
reached Karankalla at sunset; this for-
merly was a large town, but having been
plundered by the Bambarrans about four
years ago, nearly one half of it is still in
ruins.
Feb. 12th. At daylight we departed from
Karankalla, and as it was but a short day's
journey to Kemmoo, we travelled slower
than usual, and amused ourselves by col-
lecting such eatable fruits as grew near the
road side. In this pursuit I had wandered
a little from my people, and being uncer-
tain whether they were before or behind
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
139
me, I hastened to a rising ground to look
about me. As I was proceeding towards this
eminence, two Negro horsemen, armed with
muskets, came gallopping from among the
bushes on seeing them I made a full stop;
the horsemen did the same; and all three
of us seemed equally surprised and con-
founded at this interview. As I approached
them their fears increased, and one of them,
after casting upon me a look of horror, rode
off at full speed; the other, in a panic of
fear, put his hand over his eyes, and con-
tinued muttering prayers until his horse,
seemingly without the rider's knowledge,
conveyed him slowly after his companion.
About a mile to the westward, they fell in
with my attendants, to whom they related
a frightful story: it seems their fears had
dressed me in the flowing robes of a tre-
mendous spirit: and one of them affirmed,
that when I made my appearance, a cold
blast of wind came pouring down upon him
from the sky, like so much cold water.
About noon we saw at a distance the capi-
tal of Kaarta, situated in the middle of
an open plain, the country for two miles
round being cleared of wood, by the great
ľ
:
140
TRAVELS IN THE
consumption of that article for building
and fuel, and we entered the town about
two o'clock in the afternoon.
We proceeded, without stopping, to the
court before the king's residence; but I
was so completely surrounded by the gazing
multitude, that I did not attempt to dis-
mount, but sent in the landlord and Madi
Konko's son, to acquaint the king of my
arrival. In a little time they returned, ac-
companied by a messenger from the king,
signifying that he would see me in the
evening; and in the mean time, the mes-
senger had orders to procure me a lodging,
and see that the crowd did not molest me.
He conducted me into a court, at the door
of which he stationed a man, with a stick
in his hand, to keep off the mob, and then
shewed me a large hut, in which I was to
lodge. I had scarcely seated myself in this
spacious apartment, when the mob entered ;
it was found impossible to keep them out,
and I was surrounded by as many as the
hut could contain. When the first party,
however, had seen me, and asked a few
questions, they retired, to make room for
another company; and in this manner the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
141
hut was filled and emptied thirteen diffe-
rent times.
A little before sunset, the king sent to
inform me that he was at leisure, and
wished to see me. I followed the mes-
senger through a number of courts sur-
rounded with high walls, where I observed
plenty of dry grass bundled up like hay, to
fodder the horses in case the town should
be invested. On entering the court in which
the king was sitting, I was astonished at
the number of his attendants, and at the
good order that seemed to prevail among
them they were all seated; the fighting
men on the king's right hand, and the
women and children on the left, leaving a
space between them for my passage. The
king, whose name was Daisy Koorabarri,
was not be distinguished from his subjects
by any superiority in point of dress; a
bank of earth, about two feet high, upon
which was spread a leopard's skin, con-
stituted the only mark of royal dignity.
When I had seated myself upon the ground
before him, and related the various circum-
stances that had induced me to pass through
his country, and my reasons for soliciting
142
TRAVELS IN THE
*
his protection, he appeared perfectly satis-
tified; but said it was not in his power at
present to afford me much assistance; for
that all sort of communication between
Kaarta and Bambarra had been interrupted
for some time past; and as Mansong, the
King of Bambarra, with his army, had
entered Fooladoo in his way to Kaarta,
there was but little hope of my reaching
Bambarra by any of the usual routes, inas-
much as, coming from an enemy's country,
I should certainly be plundered, or taken
for a spy. If his country had been at peace,
he said, I might have remained with him
until a more favourable opportunity offered;
but, as matters stood at present, he did not
wish me to continue in Kaarta, for fear
some accident should befal me, in which
case my countrymen might say that he had
murdered a white man. He would there-
fore advise me to return into Kasson, and
remain there until the war should termi-
nate, which would probably happen in
the course of three or four months; after
which, if he was alive, he said, he would
be glad to see me, and if he was dead, his
sons would take care of me.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
143
This advice was certainly well meant on
the part of the king; and perhaps I was to
blame in not following it; but I reflected
that the hot months were approaching,
and I dreaded the thoughts of spending
the rainy season in the interior of Africa.
These considerations, and the aversion I
felt at the idea of returning without having
made a greater progress in discovery, made
me determine to go forwards; and though
the king could not give me a guide to Bam-
barra, I begged that he would allow a man
to accompany me as near the frontiers of
his kingdom as was consistent with safety.
Finding that I was determined to proceed,
the king told me that one route still re-
mained, but that, he said, was by no means
free from danger; which was to go from
Kaarta into the Moorish kingdom of Lu-
damar, from whence I might pass, by a cir-
cuitous route, into Bambarra. If I wished
to follow this route, he would appoint people
to conduct me to Jarra, the frontier town
of Ludamar. He then inquired very parti-
cularly how I had been treated since I had
left the Gambia, and asked in a jocular way
how many slaves I expected, carry home
to
}
144
TRAVELS IN THE
with me on my return. He was about to
proceed, when a man mounted on a fine
Moorish horse, which was covered with
sweat and foam, entered the court, and
signifying that he had something of im-
portance to communicate, the king imme-
diately took up his sandals, which is the
signal to strangers to retire. I accordingly
took leave, but desired my boy to stay
about the place, in order to learn some-
thing of the intelligence that this mes-
senger had brought. In about an hour
the boy returned, and informed me that
the Bambarra army had left Fooladoo, and
was on its march towards Kaarta; that the
man I had seen, who had brought this in-
telligence, was one of the scouts or watch-
men employed by the king, each of whom
has his particular station (commonly on
some rising ground) from whence he has
the best view of the country, and watches
the motions of the enemy.
In the evening the king sent me a fine
sheep; which was very acceptable, as none
of us had tasted victuals during the day.
Whilst we were employed in dressing sup-
per, evening prayers were announced; not
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
145
by the call of the priest, as usual, but by
beating on drums, and blowing through
large elephants' teeth, hollowed out in such
a manner as to resemble bugle horns; the
sound is melodious, and, in my opinion,
comes nearer to the human voice than any
other artificial sound. As the main body
of Daisy's army was, at this juncture, at
Kemmoo, the mosques were very much
crowded; and I observed that the disciples
of Mahomet composed nearly one half of
the army of Kaarta.
Feb. 13th. At daylight I sent my horse-
pistols and holsters as a present to the king,
and being very desirous to get away from
a place which was likely soon to become
the seat of war, I begged the messenger to
inform the king, that I wished to depart
from Kemmoo as soon as he should find it
convenient to appoint me a guide. In about
an hour the king sent his messenger to
thank me for the present, and eight horse-
men to conduct me to Jarra. They told
me that the king wished me to proceed
to Jarra with all possible expedition, that
they might return before any thing deci-
sive should happen between the armies of
L
146
TRAVELS IN THE
"
Bambarra and Kaarta; we accordingly de-
parted forthwith from Kemmoo, accom-
panied by three of Daisy's sons, and about
two hundred horsemen, who kindly under-
took to see me a little way on my journey.
"
ན
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
147
CHAPTER VIII.
Journey from Kemmoo to Funing kedy.-
Some Account of the Lotus.-A Youth
murdered by the Moors-interesting Scene
at his Death. -Author passes through Sim-
bing.-Some Particulars concerning Major
Houghton.-Author reaches Jarra-Situ-
ation of the surrounding States at the Period
of his Arrival there, and a brief Account of
the War between Kaarta and Bambarra.
N
On the evening of the day of our depar-
ture from Kemmoo, (the king's eldest son
and great part of the horsemen having re-
turned) we reached a village called Marina,
where we slept. During the night some
thieves broke into the hut where I had de-
posited my baggage, and having cut open
one of my bundles, stole a quantity of beads,
part of my clothes, and some amber and
gold, which happened to be in one of the
pockets. I complained to my protectors,
but without effect. The next day (Feb. 14,)
L 2
148
TRAVELS IN THE
was far advanced before we departed from
Marina, and we travelled slowly, on account
of the excessive heat, until four o'clock in
the afternoon, when two Negroes were
observed sitting among some thorny bushes
at a little distance from the road. The
king's people, taking it for granted that
they were runaway slaves, cocked their
muskets, and rode at full speed in different
directions through the bushes, in order to
surround them, and prevent their escaping.
The Negroes, however, waited with great
composure until we came within bowshot
of them, when each of them took from his
quiver a handful of arrows, and putting
two between his teeth and one in his bow,
waved to us with his hand to keep at a dis-
tance; upon which one of the king's people
called out to the strangers to give some
account of themselves. They said that
66
they were natives of Toorda, a neigh-
bouring village, and had come to that place
to gather tomberongs." These are small
farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and
delicious taste, which I knew to be the
fruit of the rhamnus lotus of Linnæus. The
Negroes shewed us two large baskets full,

i
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
149
which they had collected in the course of
the day. These berries are much esteemed
by the natives, who convert them into a
sort of bread, by exposing them for some
days to the sun, and afterwards pounding
them gently in a wooden mortar, until the
farinaceous part of the berry is separated
from the stone. This meal is then mixed
with a little water, and formed into cakes;
which, when dried in the sun, resemble in
colour and flavour the sweetest ginger-
bread. The stones are afterwards put into
a vessel of water, and shaken about so as
to separate the meal which may still adhere
to them this communicates a sweet and
agreeable taste to the water, and with the
addition of a little pounded millet, forms a
pleasant gruel called fondi, which is the
common breakfast in many parts of Luda-
mar, during the months of February and
March. The fruit is collected by spreading
a cloth upon the ground, and beating the
branches with a stick.
The lotus is very common in all the
kingdoms which I visited; but is found in
the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of
Kaarta, Ludamar, and the northern parts
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TRAVELS IN THE
of Bambarra, where it is one of the most
common shrubs of the country. I had ob-
served the same species at Gambia. The
leaves of the desert shrub are, however,
much smaller; and more resembling, in
that particular, those represented in the
engraving given by Desfontaines, in the
Mémoires de l'Académie Royale des Sci-
ences, 1788, p. 443.
As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also
in the Negro kingdoms, and as it furnishes
the natives of the latter with a food resem-
bling bread, and also with a sweet liquor,
which is much relished by them, there can
be little doubt of its being the lotus men-
tioned by Pliny, as the food of the Lybian
Lotophagi. An army may very well have
been fed with the bread I have tasted, made
of the meal of the fruit, as is said by Pliny
to have been done in Lybia; and as the
taste of the bread is sweet and agreeable,
it is not likely that the soldiers would
complain of it.
We arrived in the evening at the village
of Toorda; when all the rest of the king's
people turned back except two, who re-
mained with me as guides to Jarra.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
151
Feb. 15th. I departed from Toorda, and
about two o'clock came to a considerable
town called Funingkedy. As we approach-
ed the town the inhabitants were much
alarmed; for, as one of my guides wore a
turban, they mistook us for some Moorish
banditti. This misapprehension was soon
cleared up, and we were well received by
a Gambia Slatee, who resides at this town,
and at whose house we lodged.
Feb. 16th. We were informed that a
number of people would go from this town
to Jarra on the day following; and as the
road was much infested by the Moors, we
resolved to stay and accompany the travel-
lers. In the meantime we were told, that
a few days before our arrival, most of the
Bushreens and people of property in Fu-
ningkedy had gone to Jarra, to consult
about removing their families and effects
to that town, for fear of the approaching
war; and that the Moors, in their absence,
had stolen some of their cattle.
About two o'clock, as I was lying asleep
upon a bullock's hide behind the door of
the hut, I was awakened by the screams of
women, and a general clamour and confu-
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TRAVELS IN THE
sion among the inhabitants. At first I
suspected that the Bambarrans had actually
entered the town; but observing my boy
upon the top of one of the huts, I called to
him to know what was the matter. He
informed me that the Moors were come a
second time to steal the cattle, and that
they were now close to the town. I mounted
the roof of the hut, and observed a large
herd of bullocks coming towards the town,
followed by five Moors on horseback, who
drove the cattle forward with their muskets.
When they had reached the wells, which
are close to the town, the Moors selected
from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts,
and drove them off at full gallop. During
this transaction, the townspeople, to the
number of five hundred, stood collected
close to the walls of the town; and when
the Moors drove the cattle away, though
they passed within pistol-shot of them, the
inhabitants scarcely made a shew of re-
sistance. I only saw four muskets fired,
which, being loaded with gunpowder of
the Negroes' own manufacture, did no
execution. Shortly after this I observed a
number of people supporting a young man
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
153
upon horseback, and conducting him slowly
towards the town. This was one of the
herdsmen, who, attempting to throw his
spear, had been wounded by a shot from
one of the Moors. His mother walked on
before, quite frantic with grief, clapping
her hands, and enumerating the good qua-
lities of her son. Ee maffo fonio, (he never
told a lie) said the disconsolate mother, as
her wounded son was carried in at the
gate-Ee maffo fonio abada (he never told
a lie; no, never.) When they had conveyed
him to his hut, and laid him upon a mat,
all the spectators joined in lamenting his
fate, by screaming and howling in the most
piteous manner.
After their grief had subsided a little, I
was desired to examine the wound. I found
that the ball had passed quite through his
leg, having fractured both bones a little
below the knee: the poor boy was faint
from the loss of blood, and his situation
withal so very precarious, that I could not
console his relations with any great hopes
of his recovery. However, to give him a
possible chance, I observed to them that it
was necessary to cut off his leg above the
*
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TRAVELS IN THE
knee. This proposal made every one start
with horror: they had never heard of such
a method of cure, and would by no means
give their consent to it; indeed they evi-
dently considered me as a sort of cannibal
for proposing so cruel and unheard of an
operation, which in their opinion would
be attended with more pain and danger
than the wound itself. The patient was
therefore committed to the care of some
old Bushreens, who endeavoured to secure
him a passage into Paradise, by whispering
in his ear some Arabic sentences, and de-
siring him to repeat them. After many
unsuccessful attempts, the poor Heathen at
last pronounced, la illah el allah, Mahamet
rasowl allabi,* and the disciples of the Pro-
phet assured his mother that her son had
given sufficient evidence of his faith, and
would be happy in a future state. He died
the same evening.
Feb. 17th. My guides informed me, that
in order to avoid the Moorish banditti, it
was necessary to travel in the night; we
accordingly departed from Funingkedy in
* There is but one God, and Mahomet is his Prophet.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
155
i
the afternoon, accompanied by about thirty
people, carrying their effects with them into
Ludamar, for fear of the war. We travelled
with great silence and expedition until
midnight, when we stopped in a sort of
inclosure, near a small village; but the
thermometer being so low as 68°, none of
the Negroes could sleep on account of the
cold.
At daybreak on the 18th, we resumed
our journey, and at eight o'clock passed
Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar,
situated in a narrow pass between two
rocky hills, and surrounded with a high
wall. From this village Major Houghton
(being deserted by his Negro servants, who
refused to follow him into the Moorish
country) wrote his last letter with a pencil
to Dr. Laidley. This brave but unfortu-
nate man, having surmounted many diffi-
culties, had taken a northerly direction, and
endeavoured to pass through the kingdom
of Ludamar, where I afterwards learned
the following particulars concerning his
melancholy fate. On his arrival at Jarra,
he got acquainted with certain Moorish
merchants who were travelling to Tisheet
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(a place near the salt pits in the great
Desert, ten days' journey to the northward)
to purchase salt: and the Major, at the
expence of a musket and some tobacco,
engaged them to convey him thither. It
is impossible to form any other opinion on
this determination, than that the Moors
intentionally deceived him, either with re-
gard to the route that he wished to pursue,
or the state of the intermediate country
between Jarra and Tombuctoo. Their in-
tention probably was to rob and leave him
in the Desert. At the end of two days he
suspected their treachery, and insisted on
returning to Jarra. Finding him persist in
this determination, the Moors robbed him
of every thing he possessed, and went off
with their camels; the poor Major being
thus deserted, returned on foot to a water-
ing place in possession of the Moors, called
Tarra. He had been some days without
food, and the unfeeling Moors refusing to
give him any, he sunk at last under his
distresses. Whether he actually perished
of hunger, or was murdered outright by
the savage Mahomedans, is not certainly
known; his body was dragged into the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
157
woods, and I was shewn at a distance,
the spot where his remains were left to
perish.
About four miles to the north of Simbing,
we came to a small stream of water, where
we observed a number of wild horses: they
were all of one colour, and galloped away
from us at an easy rate, frequently stopping
and looking back. The Negroes hunt
them for food, and their flesh is much
esteemed.
About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large
town situated at the bottom of some rocky
hills. But before I proceed to describe the
place itself, and relate the various occur-
rences which befel me there, it will not be
improper to give my readers a brief recital
of the origin of the war which induced me
to take this route; an unfortunate deter-
mination, the immediate cause of all the
misfortunes and calamities which afterward
befel me. The recital which I propose to
give in this place, will prevent interruptions
hereafter.
This war, which desolated Kaarta soon
after I had left that kingdom, and spread
terror into many of the neighbouring states,
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TRAVELS IN THE
arose in the following manner. A few
bullocks belonging to a frontier village of
Bambarra having been stolen by a party
of Moors, were sold to the Dooty, or chief
man, of a town in Kaarta. The villagers
claimed their cattle, and being refused sa-
tisfaction, complained of the Dooty to their
Sovereign, Mansong, King of Bambarra,
who probably beheld with an eye of jea-
lousy the growing prosperity of Kaarta,
and availed himself of this incident to de-
clare hostilities against that kingdom.
With this view he sent a messenger and
a party of horsemen to Daisy, King of
Kaarta, to inform him that the King of
Bambarra, with nine thousand men, would
visit Kemmoo in the course of the dry sea-
son; and to desire that he (Daisy) would
direct his slaves to sweep the houses, and
have every thing ready for their accommo-
dation. The messenger concluded this in-
sulting notification by presenting the king
with a pair of iron sandals; at the same
time adding, that " until such time as Daisy
had worn out these sandals in his flight, he
should never be secure from the arrows of
Bambarra."
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
159
Daisy, having consulted with his chief
men about the best means of repelling so
formidable an enemy, returned an answer
of defiance, and made a Bushreen write in
Arabic, upon a piece of thin board, a sort
of proclamation, which was suspended to a
tree in the public square; and a number
of aged men were sent to different places
to explain it to the common people. This
proclamation called upon all the friends of
Daisy to join him immediately; but to such
as had no arms, or were afraid to enter into
the war, permission was given to retire
into any of the neighbouring kingdoms;
and it was added, that provided they ob-
served a strict neutrality, they should al-
ways be welcome to return to their former
habitations; if, however, they took any
active part against Kaarta, they had then
broken the key of their huts, and could
never afterwards enter the door." Such
was the expression.
This proclamation was very generally
applauded but many of the Kaartans,
and amongst others the powerful tribes of
Jower and Kakaroo, availing themselves of
the indulgent clause, retired from Daisy's
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dominions, and took refuge in Ludamar and
Kasson. By means of these desertions,
Daisy's army was not so numerous as
might have been expected; and when I
was at Kemmoo, the whole number of ef-
fective men, according to report, did not
exceed four thousand; but they were men
of spirit and enterprize, and could be de-
pended on.
On the 22d of February (four days after
my arrival at Jarra), Mansong, with his
army, advanced towards Kemmoo; and
Daisy, without hazarding a battle, retired
to Joko, a town to the north-west of Kem-
moo, where he remained three days, and
then took refuge in a strong town called
Gedingooma, situated in the hilly country,
and surrounded with high walls of stone.
When Daisy departed from Joko, his sons
refused to follow him, alledging that "the
singing-men would publish their disgrace,
as soon as it should be known that Daisy
and his family had fled from Joko without
firing a gun." They were therefore left
behind with a number of horsemen to de-
fend Joko; but, after many skirmishes, they
were totally defeated, and one of Daisy's
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
161
sons taken prisoner; the remainder fled to
Gedingooma, which Daisy had stored with
provisions, and where he determined to
make his final stand.
Mansong, finding that Daisy was deter-
mined to avoid a pitched battle, placed a
strong force at Joko to watch his motions,
and separating the remainder of his army
into small detachments, ordered them to
over-run the country, and seize upon the
inhabitants, before they had-time to escape.
These orders were executed with such
promptitude, that in a few days the whole
kingdom of Kaarta became a scene of de-
solation. Most of the poor inhabitants of
the different towns and villages, being sur-
prised in the night, fell an easy prey; and
their corn, and every thing which could be
useful to Daisy, was burnt and destroyed.
During these transactions, Daisy was em-
ployed in fortifying Gedingooma: this town
is built in a narrow pass between two high
hills, having only two gates, one towards
Kaarta, and the other towards Jaffnoo: the
gate towards Kaarta, was defended by Daisy
in person; and that towards Jaffnoo, was
committed to the charge of his sons. When
M
162
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i
the army of Bambarra approached the town,
they made some attempts to storm it; but
were always driven back with great loss;
and Mansong, finding Daisy more for-
midable than he expected, resolved to cut
off his supplies, and starve him into sub-
mission. He accordingly sent all the pri-
soners he had taken, into Bambarra, and
having collected a considerable quantity of
provisions, remained with his army two
whole months in the vicinity of Gedin-
gooma, without doing any thing decisive.
During this time he was much harassed by
sallies from the besieged; and his stock of
provisions being nearly exhausted, he sent
to Ali, the Moorish King of Ludamar, for
two hundred horsemen, to enable him to
make an attack upon the north gate of the
town, and give the Bambarrans an oppor-
tunity of storming the place. Ali, though
he had made an agreement with Mansong
at the commencement of the war, to afford
him assistance, now refused to fulfil his
engagement; which so enraged Mansong,
that he marched part of his army to Fu-
ningkedy, with a view to surprise the camp
of Benowm; but the Moors having received
•
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
163
intelligence of his design, fled to the north-
ward; and Mansong, without attempting
any thing farther, returned to Sego. This
happened while I was myself in captivity
in Ali's camp, as will hereafter be seen.
As the King of Kaarta had now got quit
of his most formidable antagonist, it might
have been hoped that peace would have
been restored to his dominions; but an ex-
traordinary incident involved him, imme-
diately afterward, in hostilities with Kasson;
the king of which country dying about that
time, the succession was disputed by his
two sons. The younger (Sambo Sego, my
old acquaintance) prevailed; and drove
his brother from the country. He fled to
Gedingooma; and being pursued thither,
Daisy, who had lived in constant friendship
with both the brothers, refused to deliver
him up; at the same time declaring that he
would not support his claim, nor any way
interfere in the quarrel. Sambo Sego, elated
with success, and proud of the homage
that was paid him as sovereign of Kasson,
was much displeased with Daisy's conduct,
and joined with some disaffected fugitive
Kaartans in a plundering expedition against
M 2
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him. Daisy, who little expected such a
visit, had sent a number of people to Joko,
to plant corn, and collect together such
cattle as they might find straying in the
woods, in order to supply his army. All
these people fell into the hands of Sambo
Sego, who carried them to Kooniakary, and
afterwards sent them in caravans, to be sold
to the French at Fort Louis, on the river
Senegal.
This attack was soon retaliated ; for
Daisy, who was now in distress for want
of provisions, thought he was justified in
supplying himself from the plunder of
Kasson. He accordingly took with him
eight hundred of his best men, and march-
ing secretly through the woods, surprised,
in the night, three large villages near
Kooniakary, in which many of his traitor-
ous subjects, who were in Sambo's expe-
dition, had taken up their residence; all
these, and indeed all the able men that fell
into Daisy's hands, were immediately put
to death.
After this expedition, Daisy began to
indulge the hopes of peace; many of his
discontented subjects had returned to their
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
165
2.
allegiance, and were repairing the towns
which had been desolated by the war; the
rainy season was approaching; and every
thing wore a favourable appearance, when
he was suddenly attacked from a different
quarter.
The Jowers, Kakaroos, and some other
Kaartans, who had deserted from him at
the commencement of the war, and had
shewn a decided preference to Mansong
and his army during the whole campaign,
were now afraid or ashamed to ask for-
giveness of Daisy, and being very powerful
in themselves, joined together to make war
upon him. They solicited the Moors to
assist them in their rebellion (as will appear
hereafter) and having collected a consi-
derable army, they plundered a large village
belonging to Daisy, and carried off a num
ber of prisoners.
Daisy immediately prepared to revenge
this insult; but the Jowers, and indeed
almost all the Negro inhabitants of Luda-
mar, deserted their towns and fled to the
eastward; and the rainy season put an end
to the war of Kaarta, which had enriched
*
166
TRAVELS IN THE
a few individuals, but destroyed the happi-
ness of thousands.
Such was the state of affairs among the
nations in the neighbourhood of Jarra, soon
after the period of my arrival there. I
shall now proceed, after giving some de-
scription of that place, with the detail of
events as they occurred.
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
167
CHAPTER IX.
Some Account of Farra, and the Moorish
Inhabitants.—The Author applies for, and
obtains Permission from Ali, the Moorish
Chief or Sovereign of Ludamar, to pass
through his Territories.-Departs from
Jarra, and arrives at Deena-ill treated
by the Moors-Proceeds to Sampaka-
finds a Negro who makes Gunpowder.
Continues his Journey to Samee, where be
is seized by some Moors who are sent for
that Purpose by Ali-is conveyed a Pri-
soner to the Moorish Camp at Benowm, on
the Borders of the Great Desert.
pose
THE town of Jarra is of considerable ex-
tent: the houses are built of clay and stone
intermixed; the clay answering the pur-
of mortar. It is situated in the Moorish
kingdom of Ludamar; but the major part
of the inhabitants are Negroes, from the
borders of the southern states, who prefer
a precarious protection under the Moors,
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TRAVELS IN THE
which they purchase by a tribute, rather
than continue exposed to their predatory
hostilities. The tribute they pay is consi-
derable; and they manifest towards their
Moorish superiors the most unlimited obe-
dience and submission, and are treated by
them with the utmost indignity and con-
tempt. The Moors of this, and the other
states adjoining the country of the Negroes,
resemble in their persons the Mulattoes of
the West Indies to so great a degree, as not
easily to be distinguished from them; and
in truth, the present generation seem to be
a mixed race between the Moors (properly
so called) of the North, and the Negroes
of the South; possessing many of the worst
qualities of both nations.
Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as
distinguished from the inhabitants of Bar-
bary, from whom they are divided by the
Great Desert, nothing farther seems to be
known than what is related by John Leo,
the African; whose account may be abridged
as follows:
Before the Arabian Conquest, about the
middle of the seventh century, all the in-
habitants of Africa, whether they were
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
169
descended from Numidians, Phoenicians,
Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, or Goths,
were comprehended under the general name
of Mauri, or Moors. All these nations
were converted to the religion of Mahomet,
during the Arabian empire under the Ka-
liphs. About this time many of the Numi-
dian tribes, who led a wandering life in the
Desert, and supported themselves upon the
produce of their cattle, retired southward
across the Great Desert, to avoid the fury
of the Arabians; and by one of those tribes,
says Leo, (that of Zanhaga) were disco-
vered and conquered the Negro nations on
the Niger. By the Niger, is here undoubt-
edly meant the river of Senegal, which in
the Mandingo language is called Bafing, or
the Black River.
To what extent these people are now
spread over the African continent it is
difficult to ascertain. There is reason
to believe, that their dominion stretches
from West to East, in a narrow line or
belt, from the mouth of the Senegal (on
the northern side of that river) to the
confines of Abyssinia. They are a subtle
and treacherous race of people; and take
170
TRAVELS IN THE
!
every opportunity of cheating and plun-
dering the credulous and unsuspecting Ne-
groes. But their manners and general
habits of life will be best explained as in-
cidents occur in the course of my narrative.
On my arrival at Jarra, I obtained a
lodging at the house of Daman Jumma, a
Gambia Slatee. This man had formerly
borrowed goods from Dr. Laidley, who
had given me an order for the money, to
the amount of six slaves; and though the
debt was of five years standing, he readily
acknowledged it, and promised me what
money he could raise. He was afraid, he
said, in his present situation, he could not
pay more than two slaves' value. He gave
me his assistance however in exchanging
my beads and amber for gold, which was a
more portable article, and more easily con-
cealed from the Moors.
The difficulties we had already encoun-
tered, the unsettled state of the country,
and, above all, the savage and overbearing
deportment of the Moors, had so completely
frightened my attendants, that they de-
clared they would rather relinquish every
claim to reward, than proceed one step
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
171
farther to the eastward. Indeed the danger
they incurred of being seized by the Moors,
and sold into slavery, became every day
more apparent; and I could not condemn
their apprehensions. In this situation, de-
serted by my attendants, and reflecting that
my retreat was cut off by the war behind
me, and that a Moorish country of ten
days' journey lay before me, I applied to
Daman to obtain permission from Ali, the
chief or sovereign of Ludamar, that I might
pass through his country unmolested, into
Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman's
slaves to accompany me thither, as soon as
such permission should be obtained. A
messenger was dispatched to Ali, who at
this time was encamped near Benown; and
as a present was necessary, in order to in-
sure success, I sent him five garments of
cotton cloth, which I purchased of Daman,
for one of my fowling pieces. Fourteen
days elapsed in settling this affair; but, on
the evening of the 26th of February, one
of Ali's slaves arrived with directions, as he
pretended, to conduct me in safety as far
Goomba; and told me I was to pay him
one garment of blue cotton cloth for his
172
TRAVELS IN THE
attendance. My faithful boy observing that
I was about to proceed without him, re-
solved to accompany me; and told me, that
though he wished me to turn back, he never
had entertained any serious thoughts of de-
serting me, but had been advised to it by
Johnson, with a view to induce me to return
immediately for Gambia.
Feb. 27th. I delivered most of my papers
to Johnson, to convey them to Gambia as
soon as possible, reserving a duplicate for
myself, in case of accidents. I likewise left
in Daman's possession a bundle of clothes,
and other things that were not absolutely
necessary; for I wished to diminish my
baggage as much as possible, that the
Moors might have fewer inducements to
plunder us.
Things being thus adjusted, we departed
from Jarra, in the forenoon, and slept at
Troomgoomba, a small walled village, in-
habited by a mixture of Negroes and Moors.
On the day following (Feb. 28th) we reach-
ed Quira; and on the 29th, after a toilsome
journey over a sandy country, we came
to Compe, a watering place belonging to
the Moors; from whence on the morning
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
178
following, we proceeded to Deena, a large
town, and, like Jarra, built of stone and
clay. The Moors are here in greater pro-
portion to the Negroes than at Jarra. They
assembled round the hut of the Negro where
I lodged, and treated me with the greatest
insolence: they hissed, shouted, and abused
me; they even spit in my face, with a view
to irritate me, and afford them a pretext
for seizing my baggage. But, finding such
insults had not the desired effect, they had
recourse to the final and decisive argument,
that I was a Christian, and of course that
my property was lawful plunder to the
followers of Mahomet. They accordingly
opened my bundles, and robbed me of every
thing they fancied. My attendants finding
that every body could rob me with impu-
nity, insisted on returning to Jarra.
The day following (March 2d) I endea-
voured, by all the means in my power, to
prevail upon my people to go on; but they
still continued obstinate; and having reason
to fear some further insult from the fanatic
Moors, I resolved to proceed alone. Accord-
ingly the next morning, about two o'clock,
I departed from Deena. It was moonlight;
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TRAVELS IN THE
but the roaring of the wild beasts made it
necessary to proceed with caution.
When I had reached a piece of rising
ground about half a mile from the town, I
heard somebody halloo, and looking back,
saw my faithful boy running after me. He
informed me, that Ali's man had gone back
to Benowm, and that Daman's Negro was
about to depart for Jarra; but he said he
had no doubt, if I would stop a little, that
he could persuade the latter to accompany
us. I waited accordingly, and in about an
hour the boy returned with the Negro;
and we continued travelling over a sandy
country, covered chiefly with the asclepias
gigantea, until mid-day, when we came to a
number of deserted huts; and seeing some
appearances of water at a little distance, I
sent the boy to fill a soofroo; but as he was
examining the place for water, the roaring
of a lion, that was probably on the same
pursuit, induced the frightened boy to re-
turn in haste, and we submitted patiently
to the disappointment. In the afternoon
we reached a town inhabited chiefly by
Foulahs, called Samamingkoos.
Next morning (March 4th) we set out
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
175
for Sampaka; which place we reached about
two o'clock. On the road we observed
immense quantities of locusts: the trees
were quite black with them. These insects
devour every vegetable that comes in their
way, and in a short time completely strip
a tree of its leaves. The noise of their ex-
crement falling upon the leaves and withered
grass, very much resembles a shower of rain.
When a tree is shaken or struck, it is asto-
nishing to see what a cloud of them will
fly off. In their flight they yield to the
current of the wind, which at this season
of the year is always from the north-east.
Should the wind shift, it is difficult to
conceive where they could collect food, as
the whole of their course was marked with
desolation.
Sampaka is a large town, and when the
Moors and Bambarrans were at war, was
thrice attacked by the former; but they
were driven off with great loss, though the
King of Bambarra was afterwards obliged
to give up this, and all the other towns as
far as Goomba, in order to obtain a peace.
Here I lodged at the house of a Negro who
practised the art of making gunpowder.
176
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He shewed me a bag of nitre, very white,
but the crystals were much smaller than
common. They procure it in considerable
quantities from the ponds which are filled
in the rainy season, and to which the cattle
resort for coolness during the heat of the
day. When the water is evaporated, a
white efflorescence is observed on the mud,
which the natives collect and purify in such
a manner as to answer their purpose. The
Moors supply them with sulphur from the
Mediterranean; and the process is com-
pleted by pounding the different articles
together in a wooden mortar. The grains
are very unequal, and the sound of its ex-
plosion is by no means so sharp as that
produced by European gunpowder.
March 5th. We departed from Sampaka
at daylight. About noon we stopped a little
at a village called Dangali; and in the
evening arrived at Dalli. We saw upon
the road two large herds of camels feeding.
When the Moors turn their camels to feed,
they tie up one of their fore legs, to prevent
their straying. This happened to be a feast
day at Dalli, and the people were dancing
before the Dooty's house. But when they
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
177
were informed that a white man was come
into the town, they left off dancing, and
came to the place where I lodged, walking
in regular order, two and two, with the
music before them. They play upon a sort
of flute; but instead of blowing into a hole
in the side, they blow obliquely over the
end, which is half shut by a thin piece of
wood: they govern the holes on the side
with their fingers, and play some simple
and very plaintive airs. They continued to
dance and sing until midnight: during
which time I was surrounded by so great a
crowd, as made it necessary for me to sa-
tisfy their curiosity, by sitting still.
March 6th. We stopt here this morning,
because some of the townspeople, who were
going for Goomba on the day following,
wished to accompany us; but in order to
avoid the crowd of people which usually
assembled in the evening, we went to a
Negro village to the east of Dalli, called
Samee, where we were kindly received by
the hospitable Dooty, who on this occasion
killed two fine sheep, and invited his friends
to come and feast with him.
March 7th. Our landlord was so proud
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178
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of the honour of entertaining a white man,
that he insisted on my staying with him
and his friends until the cool of the evening,
when he said he would conduct me to the
next village. As I was now within two
days' journey of Goomba, I had no appre-
hensions from the Moors, and readily ac-
cepted the invitation. I spent the forenoon
very pleasantly with these poor Negroes:
their company was the more acceptable, as
the gentleness of their manners presented
a striking contrast to the rudeness and bar-
barity of the Moors. They enlivened their
conversation by drinking a fermented liquor
made from corn; the same sort of beer that
I have described in a former chapter; and
better I never tasted in Great Britain.
In the midst of this harmless festivity, I
flattered myself that all danger from the
Moors was over. Fancy had already placed
me on the banks of the Niger, and presented
to my imagination a thousand delightful
scenes in my future progress, when a party
of Moors unexpectedly entered the hut,
and dispelled the golden dream. They
came, they said, by Ali's orders, to convey
me to his camp at Benowm. If I went
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
179
peaceably, they told me I had nothing to
fear; but if I refused, they had orders to
bring me by force. I was struck dumb by
surprise and terror, which the Moors ob-
serving, endeavoured to calm my apprehen-
sions, by repeating the assurance that I had
nothing to fear. Their visit, they added,
was occasioned by the curiosity of Ali's
wife, Fatima, who had heard so much about
Christians, that she was very anxious to see
one: as soon as her curiosity should be
satisfied, they had no doubt, they said, that
Ali would give me a handsome present, and
send a person to conduct me to Bambarra.
Finding entreaty and resistance equally
fruitless, I prepared to follow the messen-
gers, and took leave of my landlord and
his company with great reluctance. Accom-
panied by my faithful boy (for Daman's
slave made his escape on seeing the Moors),
we reached Dalli in the evening; where we
were strictly watched by the Moors during
the night.
March 8th. We were conducted by a
circuitous path through the woods to Dan-
gali, where we slept.
March 9th. We continued our journey,
N 2
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and in the afternoon arrived at Sampaka.
On the road we saw a party of Moors, well
armed, who told us that they were hunting
for a runaway slave; but the townspeople
informed us, that a party of Moors had at-
tempted to steal some cattle from the town
in the morning, but were repulsed; and,
on their describing the persons, we were
satisfied that they were the same banditti
that we had seen in the woods.
Next morning (March 10th) we set out
for Samamingkoos. On the road we over-
took a woman and two boys, with an ass:
she informed us that she was going for Bam-
barra, but had been stopped on the road by
a party of Moors, who had taken most of
her clothes, and some gold from her; and
that she would be under the necessity of
returning to Deena till the fast moon was
over. The same evening the new moon
was seen, which ushered in the month
Rhamadan. Large fires were made in dif-
ferent parts of the town, and a greater
quantity of victuals than usual dressed upon
the occasion.
March 11th. By daylight the Moors
were in readiness; but as I had suffered
:
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
181
much from thirst on the road, I made my
boy fill a soofroo of water for my own use;
for the Moors assured me that they should
not taste either meat or drink until sunset.
However, I found that the excessive heat of
the sun, and the dust we raised in travel-
ling, overcame their scruples, and made my
soofroo a very useful part of our baggage.
On our arrival at Deena, I went to pay my
respects to one of Ali's sons. I found him
sitting in a low hut, with five or six more
of his companions, washing their hands and
feet, and frequently taking water into their
mouths, gargling, and spitting it out again.
I was no sooner seated, than he handed me
a double-barreled gun, and told me to dye
the stock of a blue colour, and repair one
of the locks. I found great difficulty in
persuading him that I knew nothing about
the matter. However, says he, if you cannot
repair the gun, you shall give me some
knives and scissars immediately; and when
my boy, who acted as interpreter, assured
him that I had no such articles, he hastily
snatched up a musket that stood by him,
cocked it, and putting the muzzle close to
the boy's ear, would certainly have shot
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•
him dead upon the spot, had not the Moors
wrested the musket from him, and made
signs for us to retreat. The boy, being
terrified at this treatment, attempted to
make his escape in the night; but was pre-
vented by the vigilance of the Moors, who
guarded us with strict attention; and at
night always went to sleep by the door of
the hut, in such a situation that it was
almost impossible to pass, without stepping
upon them.
March 12th. We departed from Deena
towards Benowm, and about nine o'clock
came to a Korree, whence the Moors were
preparing to depart to the southward, on
account of the scarcity of water; here we
filled our soofroo, and continued our jour-
ney over a hot sandy country, covered with
small stunted shrubs, until about one o'clock,
when the heat of the sun obliged us to stop.
But our water being expended, we could
not prudently remain longer than a few
minutes to collect a little gum, which is an
excellent succedaneum for water; as it keeps
the mouth moist, and allays, for a time, the
pain in the throat.
About five o'clock we came in sight of
}
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
183
1
Benowm, the residence of Ali. It presented
to the eye a great number of dirty looking
tents, scattered without order, over a large
space of ground; and among the tents ap-
peared large herds of camels, cattle, and
goats. We reached the skirts of the camp,
a little before sunset, and, with much en-
treaty, procured a little water. My arrival
was no sooner observed, than the people
who drew water at the wells threw down
their buckets; those in the tents mounted
their horses; and men, women, and chil-
dren, came running or galloping towards
me. I soon found myself surrounded by
such a crowd, that I could scarcely move;
one pulled my clothes, another took off
my
hat, a third stopped me to examine my
waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called out,
la illa el allah Mahamet rasowl allahi,* and
signified, in a threatening manner, that I
must repeat those words. We reached at
length the king's tent, where we found a
great number of people, men and women,
assembled. Ali was sitting upon a black
leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from
his upper lip; a female attendant holding
* See page 154•
藏
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up a looking glass before him. He appeared
to be an old man, of the Arab cast, with a
long white beard; and he had a sullen and
indignant aspect. He surveyed me with
attention, and inquired of the Moors if I
could speak Arabic: being answered in the
negative, he appeared much surprised, and
continued silent. The surrounding at-
tendants, and especially the ladies, were
abundantly more inquisitive: they asked a
thousand questions; inspected every part
of my apparel, searched my pockets, and
obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, and
display the whiteness of my skin: they
even counted my toes and fingers, as if they
doubted whether I was in truth a human
being. In a little time the priest announced
evening prayers; but before the people de-
parted, the Moor who had acted as inter-
preter, informed me that Ali was about to
present me with something to eat; and look-
ing round, I observed some boys bringing a
wild hog, which they tied to one of the tent
strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill
and dress it for supper. Though I was very
hungry, I did not think it prudent to eat
any part of an animal so much detested by

J.C.Barrow del: from a Sketch by M.Park
A VIEW of ALI'S TENT at the CAMP of BENOWM.
JMills raup
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
185
the Moors, and therefore told him that I
never eat such food. They then untied the
hog, in hopes that it would run immediately
at me; for they believe that a great enmity
subsists between hogs and Christians; but
in this they were disappointed; for the
animal no sooner regained his liberty, than
he began to attack indiscriminately every
person that came in his way, and at last
took shelter under the couch upon which
the King was sitting. The assembly being
thus dissolved, I was conducted to the tent
of Ali's chief slave, but was not permitted
to enter, nor allowed to touch any thing
belonging to it. I requested something to
eat, and a little boiled corn, with salt and
water, was at length sent me in a wooden
bowl; and a mat was spread upon the sand
before the tent, on which I passed the night,
surrounded by the curious multitude.
At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants,
came on horseback to visit me, and signi-
fied that he had provided a hut for me,
where I would be sheltered from the sun.
I was accordingly conducted thither, and
found the hut comparatively cool and
pleasant. It was constructed of corn stalks
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set up on end, in the form of a square, with
a flat roof of the same materials, supported
by forked sticks; to one of which was tied
the wild hog before mentioned. This animal
had certainly been placed there by Ali's
order, out of derision to a Christian; and
I found it a very disagreeable inmate, as
it drew together a number of boys, who
amused themselves by beating it with sticks,
until they had so irritated the hog that it
ran and bit at every person within its
reach.
I was no sooner seated in this my new
habitation, than the Moors assembled in
crowds to behold me; but I found it rather
a troublesome levee, for I was obliged to
take off one of my stockings, and show them
my foot, and even to take off my jacket and
waistcoat, to show them how my clothes
were put on and off: they were much de-
lighted with the curious contrivance of
buttons. All this was to be repeated to
every succeeding visitor; for such as had
already seen these wonders, insisted on
their friends seeing the same; and in this
manner I was employed, dressing and un-
dressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
187
noon to night. About eight o'clock, Ali
sent me for supper, some kouskous and salt
and water, which was very acceptable, be-
ing the only victuals I had tasted since
morning.
I observed that, in the night, the Moors
kept regular watch, and frequently looked
into the hut, to see if I was asleep, and if
it was quite dark, they would light a wisp
of grass. About two o'clock in the morn-
ing, a Moor entered the hut, probably with
a view to steal something, or perhaps to
murder me; and groping about, he laid his
hand upon my shoulder.
shoulder. As night visitors
were at best but suspicious characters, I
sprang up the moment he laid his hand
upon me; and the Moor, in his haste to
get off, stumbled over my boy, and fell with
his face upon the wild hog, which returned
the attack by biting the Moor's arm. The
screams of this man alarmed the people in
the King's tent, who immediately conjec-
tured that I had made my escape, and a
number of them mounted their horses, and
prepared to pursue me.
I observed upon
this occasion that Ali did not sleep in his
own tent, but came galloping upon a white
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horse from a small tent at a considerable
distance: indeed, the tyrannical and cruel
behaviour of this man made him so jealous
of every person around him, that even his
own slaves and domestics knew not where
he slept. When, the Moors had explained
to him the cause of this outcry, they all
went away, and I was permitted to sleep
quietly until morning.
March 18th. With the returning day
commenced the same round of insult and
irritation: the boys assembled to beat the
hog, and the men and women to plague the
Christian. It is impossible for me to de-
scribe the behaviour of a people who study
mischief as a science, and exult in the mise-
ries and misfortunes of their fellow-crea-
tures. It is sufficient to observe that the
rudeness, ferocity, and fanaticism, which
distinguish the Moors from the rest of man-
kind, found here a proper subject whereon
to exercise their propensities. I was a
stranger, I was unprotected, and I was a
Christian; each of these circumstances is
sufficient to drive every spark of humanity
from the heart of a Moor; but when all of
them, as in my case, were combined in the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
189
same person, and a suspicion prevailed
withal, that I had come as a spy into the
country, the reader will easily imagine that,
in such a situation, I had every thing to
fear. Anxious, however, to conciliate fa-
vour, and, if possible, to afford the Moors
no pretence for ill treating me, I readily
complied with every command, and pati-
ently bore every insult; but never did any
period of my life pass away so heavily:
from sunrise to sunset, was I obliged to
suffer, with an unruffled countenance, the
insults of the rudest savages on earth.
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เ
CHAPTER X.
Various Occurrences during the Author's Con-
finement at Benowm-is visited by some
Moorish Ladies.-A Funeral and Wed-
ding.-The Author receives an extraordi-
nary Present from the Bride. — Other
Circumstances illustrative of the Moorish
Character and Manners.
THE Moors, though very indolent them-
selves, are rigid task-masters, and keep
every person under them in full employ-
ment. My boy Demba was sent to the
woods to collect withered grass for Ali's
horses; and after a variety of projects con-
cerning myself, they at last found out an
employment for me; this was no other than
the respectable office of barber. I was to
make my first exhibition in this capacity in
the royal presence, and to be honoured with
the task of shaving the head of the young
prince of Ludamar. I accordingly seated
myself upon the sand, and the boy, with
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
191
some hesitation, sat down beside me. A
small razor, about three inches long, was
put into my hand, and I was ordered to
proceed; but whether from my own want
of skill, or the improper shape of the instru
ment, I unfortunately made a slight incision
in the boy's head, at the very commence-
ment of the operation; and the King ob-
serving the awkward manner in which I
held the razor, concluded that his son's head
was in very improper hands, and ordered
me to resign the razor, and walk out of the
tent. This I considered as a very fortunate
circumstance; for I had laid it down as a
rule, to make myself as useless and insig-
nificant as possible, as the only means of
recovering my liberty.
March 18. Four Moors arrived from
Jarra with Johnson my interpreter, having
seized him before he had received any inti-
mation of my confinement; and bringing
with them a bundle of clothes that I had
left at Daman Jumma's house, for my use
in case I should return by the way of Jarra.
Johnson was led into Ali's tent and exa-
mined; the bundle was opened, and I was
sent for, to explain the use of the different
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7
articles. I was happy, however, to find that
Johnson had committed my papers to the
charge of one of Daman's wives. When I
had satisfied Ali's curiosity respecting the
different articles of apparel, the bundle was
again tied up, and put into a large cow-skin
bag, that stood in a corner of the tent. The
same evening Ali sent three of his people
to inform me, that there were many thieves
in the neighbourhood, and that to prevent
the rest of my things from being stolen, it
was necessary to convey them all into his
tent. My clothes, instruments, and every
thing that belonged to me, were accordingly
carried away; and though the heat and
dust made clean linen very necessary and
refreshing, I could not procure a single shirt
out of the small stock I had brought along
with me. Ali was however disappointed,
by not finding among my effects the quan-
tity of gold and amber that he expected;
but to make sure of every thing, he sent
the same people, on the morning following,
to examine whether I had any thing con-
cealed about my person. They, with their
usual rudeness, searched every part of my
apparel, and stripped me of all my gold,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
193
amber, my watch, and one of my pocket
compasses: I had fortunately, in the night,
buried the other compass in the sand; and
this, with the clothes I had on, was all that
the tyranny of Ali had now left me.
The gold and amber were highly grati-
fying to Moorish avarice, but the pocket
compass soon became an object of supersti-
tious curiosity. Ali was very desirous to be
informed, why that small piece of iron, the
needle, always pointed to the Great Desert;
and I found myself somewhat puzzled to
answer the question. To have pleaded my
ignorance, would have created a suspicion
that I wished to conceal the real truth from
him; I therefore told him, that my mother
resided far beyond the sands of Sahara, and
that whilst she was alive the piece of iron
would always point that way, and serve as
a guide to conduct me to her, and that if
she was dead it would point to her grave.
Ali now looked at the compass with re-
doubled amazement; turned it round and
round repeatedly; but observing that it
always pointed the same way, he took it
up with great caution and returned it to
me, manifesting that he thought there was
O
>
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something of magic in it, and that he was
afraid of keeping so dangerous an instru-
ment in his possession,
March 20th. This morning a council of
chief men was held in Ali's tent respecting
me: their decisions, though they were all
unfavourable to me, were differently related
by different persons. Some said that they
intended to put me to death; others that I
was only to lose my right hand; but the
most probable account was that which I
received from Ali's own son, a boy about
nine years of age, who came to me in the
evening, and, with much concern, informed
me that his uncle had persuaded his father
to put out my eyes, which they said resem-
bled those of a cat, and that all the Bush-
reens had approved of this measure.
father, however, he said, would not put the
sentence into execution until Fatima the
queen, who was at present in the north,
had seen me.
His
March 21st. Anxious to know my de-
stiny, I went to the king early in the morn-
ing; and as a number of Bushreens were
assembled, I thought this a favourable op-
portunity of discovering their intentions.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
195
I therefore began by begging his permis-
sion to return to Jarra; which was flatly re-
fused: his wife, he said, had not yet seen me,
and I must stay until she came to Benowm,
after which I should be at liberty to depart;
and that my horse, which had been taken
away from me the day after I arrived, should
be again restored to me. Unsatisfactory as
this answer was, I was forced to appear
pleased; and as there was little hopes of
making my escape, at this season of the year,
on account of the excessive heat, and the
total want of water in the woods, I resolved
to wait patiently until the rains had set in,
or until some more favourable opportunity
should present itself;-but hope deferred
maketh the heart sick. This tedious procras-
tination from day to day, and the thoughts
of travelling through the Negro kingdoms
in the rainy season, which was now fast
approaching, made me very melancholy;
and having passed a restless night, I found
myself attacked, in the morning, by a smart
fever. I had wrapped myself close up in
my cloak, with a view to induce perspira-
tion, and was asleep when a party of Moors
entered the hut, and with their usual
0 2
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rudeness pulled the cloak from me. I made
signs to them that I was sick, and wished
much to sleep; but I solicited in vain: my
distress was matter of sport to them, and
they endeavoured to heighten it by every
means in their power. This studied and
degrading insolence, to which I was con-
stantly exposed, was one of the bitterest
ingredients in the cup of captivity; and
often made life itself a burthen to me. In
those distressing moments I have frequent-
ly envied the situation of the slave; who,
amidst all his calamities, could still possess
the enjoyment of his own thoughts; a hap-
piness to which I had, for some time, been
a stranger. Wearied out with such conti-
nual insults, and perhaps a little peevish
from the fever, I trembled lest my passion
might unawares overleap the bounds of
prudence, and spur me to some sudden act
of resentment, when death must be the
inevitable consequence. In this perplexity,
I left my hut, and walked to some shady
trees at a little distance from the camp,
where I lay down. But even here, persecu-
tion followed me; and solitude was thought
too great an indulgence for a distressed
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
197
Christian.
I
Ali's son, with a number of
horsemen, came galloping to the place, and
ordered me to rise and follow them.
begged they would allow me to remain
where I was, if it was only for a few hours
but they paid little attention to what I
said; and after a few threatening words,
one of them pulled out a pistol from a leather
bag, that was fastened to the pummel of his
saddle, and presenting it towards me, snap-
ped it twice. He did this with so much
indifference, that I really doubted whether
the pistol was loaded; he cocked it a third
time, and was striking the flint with a piece
of steel, when I begged them to desist, and
returned with them to the camp. When
we entered Ali's tent, we found him much
out of humour. He called for the Moor's
pistol, and amused himself for some time
with opening and shutting the pan; at
length, taking up his powder horn, he fresh
primed it; and turning round to me with a
menacing look, said something in Arabic,
which I did not understand. I desired my
boy, who was sitting before the tent, to in-
quire what offence I had committed; when
I was informed that having gone out of the
<
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+
camp without Ali's permission, they sus-
pected that I had some design of making
my escape; and that, in future, if I was seen
without the skirts of the camp, orders had
been given that I should be shot by the first
person that observed me.
In the afternoon the horizon, to the east-
ward, was thick and hazy, and the Moors
prognosticated a sand wind; which accord-
ingly commenced on the morning follow-
ing, and lasted, with slight intermissions,
for two days. The force of the wind was
not in itself very great: it was what a sea-
man would have denominated a stiff breeze;
but the quantity of sand and dust carried
before it, was such as to darken the whole
atmosphere. It swept along from east to
west, in a thick and constant stream, and
the air was at times so dark and full of sand,
that it was difficult to discern the neigh-
bouring tents. As the Moors always dress
their victuals in the open air, this sand fell
in great plenty amongst the kouskous: it
readily adhered to the skin, when moistened
by perspiration, and formed a cheap and
universal hair powder. The Moors wrap a
cloth round their face to prevent them from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
199
inhaling the sand, and always turn their
backs to the wind when they look up, to
prevent the sand falling into their eyes.
About this time, all the women of the
camp had their feet, and the ends of their
fingers, stained of a dark saffron colour. I
could never ascertain whether this was done
from motives of religion, or by way of orna-
ment. The curiosity of the Moorish ladies
had been very troublesome to me ever since
my arrival at Benowm; and on the evening
of the 25th (whether from the instigation
of others, or impelled by their own ungo-
vernable curiosity, or merely out of frolic,
I cannot affirm) a party of them came into
my hut, and gave me plainly to understand
that the object of their visit was to ascer-
tain, by actual inspection, whether the rite
of circumcision extended to the Nazarenes,
(Christians,) as well as to the followers of
Mahomet. The reader will easily judge of
my surprise at this unexpected declaration;
and in order to avoid the proposed scrutiny,
I thought it best to treat the business jocu-
larly. I observed to them, that it was not
customary in my country to give ocular de-
monstration in such cases, before so many
200
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?
beautiful women; but that if all of them
would retire, except the young lady to
whom I pointed (selecting the youngest
and handsomest), I would satisfy her curio-
sity. The ladies enjoyed the jest, and went
away laughing heartily; and the young
damsel herself to whom I had given the
preference (though she did not avail her-
self of the privilege of inspection), seemed
no way displeased at the compliment; for
she soon afterwards sent me some meal and
milk for my supper.
March 28th. This morning a large herd
of cattle arrived from the eastward; and
one of the drivers, to whom Ali had lent
my horse, came into my hut with the leg
of an antelope as a present, and told me
that my horse was standing before Ali's
tent. In a little time Ali sent one of his
slaves to inform me, that, in the afternoon,
I must be in readiness to ride out with him,
as he intended to shew me to some of his
women.
· About four o'clock, Ali, with six of his
courtiers, came riding to my hut, and told
me to follow them. I readily complied.
But here a new difficulty occurred: the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
201
Moors, accustomed to a loose and easy dress,
could not reconcile themselves to the ap-
pearance of my nankeen breeches, which they
said were not only inelegant, but, on ac-
count of their tightness, very indecent; and
as this was a visit to ladies, Ali ordered my
boy to bring out the loose cloak which I
had always worn since my arrival at Be-
nowm, and told me to wrap it close round
me. We visited the tents of four different
ladies, at every one of which I was presented
with a bowl of milk and water. All these
ladies were remarkably corpulent, which
is considered here as the highest mark of
beauty. They were very inquisitive, and
examined my hair and skin with great at-
tention; but affected to consider me as a
sort of inferior being to themselves, and
would knit their brows, and seem to shud-
der, when they looked at the whiteness of
my skin. In the course of this evening's
excursion, my dress and appearance afforded
infinite mirth to the company, who galloped
round me as if they were baiting a wild
animal; twirling their muskets round their
heads, and exhibiting various feats of acti-
vity and horsemanship, seemingly to display
រ
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their superior prowess over a miserable
captive.
The Moors are certainly very good horse-
men. They ride without fear; their sad-
dles, being high before and behind, afford
them a very secure seat; and if they chance
to fall, the whole country is so soft and
sandy, that they are very seldom hurt.
Their greatest pride, and one of their prin-
cipal amusements, is to put the horse to his
full speed, and then stop him with a sudden
jerk, so as frequently to bring him down
upon his haunches. Ali always rode upon
a milk-white horse, with its tail dyed red.
He never walked, unless when he went to
say his prayers; and even in the night, two
or three horses were always kept ready
saddled, at a little distance from his own
tent. The Moors set a very high value upon
their horses; for it is by their superior fleet-
ness, that they are enabled to make so many
predatory excursions into the Negro coun-
tries. They feed them three or four times
a day, and generally give them a large quan-
tity of sweet milk in the evening, which
the horses appear to relish very much.
April gd. This forenoon a child, which
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
208
had been some time sickly, died in the
next tent; and the mother and relations
immediately began the death howl. They
were joined by a number of female visi-
tors, who came on purpose to assist at this
melancholy concert. I had no opportu-
nity of seeing the burial, which is gene-
rally performed secretly, in the dusk of the
evening, and frequently at only a few yards
distance from the tent. Over the grave,
they plant one particular shrub; and no
stranger is allowed to pluck a leaf, or even
to touch it; so great a veneration have they
for the dead.
April 7th. About four o'clock in the
afternoon, a whirlwind passed through the
camp, with such violence that it overturned
three tents, and blew down one side of my
hut. These whirlwinds come from the
Great Desert, and, at this season of the
year, are so common, that I have seen five
or six of them at one time. They carry up
quantities of sand to an amazing height,
which resemble, at a distance, so many
moving pillars of smoke.
The scorching heat of the sun, upon
a dry and sandy country, makes the air
204
TRAVELS IN THE
1
insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of
my thermometer, I had no means of form-
ing a comparative judgment; but in the
middle of the day, when the beams of the
vertical sun are seconded by the scorching
wind from the Desert, the ground is fre-
quently heated to such a degree, as not to
be borne by the naked foot; even the Negro
slaves, will not run from one tent to ano-
ther, without their sandals. At this time
of the day, the Moors lie stretched at length
in their tents, either asleep, or unwilling to
move; and I have often felt the wind so
hot, that I could not hold my hand in the
current of air which came through the cre-
vices of my hut, without feeling sensible
pain.
April 8th. This day the wind blew from
the south-west, and in the night there was
a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with
thunder and lightning.
April 10th. In the evening the Tabala,
or large drum, was beat to announce a wed-
ding, which was held at one of the neigh-
bouring tents. A great number of people
of both sexes assembled, but without that
mirth and hilarity which take place at a
INTERIOR OF AFRICA
205
ง
Negro wedding: here was neither singing,
nor dancing; nor any other amusement
that I could perceive. A woman was beat-
ing the drum, and the other women joining
at times like a chorus, by setting up a shrill
scream; and at the same time, moving their
tongues from one side of the mouth to the
other, with great celerity. I was soon tired,
and had returned into my hut, where I was
sitting almost asleep, when an old woman
entered, with a wooden bowl in her hand,
and signified that she had brought me a
present from the bride. Before I could re-
cover from the surprise which this message
created, the woman discharged the contents
of the bowl full in my face. Finding that
it was the same sort of holy water, with
which, among the Hottentots, a priest is
said to sprinkle a new married couple, I
began to suspect that the old lady was ac-
tuated by mischief, or malice; but she gave
me seriously to understand, that it was a
nuptial benediction from the bride's own
person; and which, on such occasions, is
always received by the young unmarried
Moors as a mark of distinguished favour.
This being the case, I wiped my face, and
206
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sent my acknowledgments to the lady. The
wedding drum continued to beat, and the
women to sing, or rather whistle, all night.
About nine in the morning, the bride was
brought in state from her mother's tent,
attended by a number of women, who car-
ried her tent, (a present from the husband)
some bearing up the poles, others holding
by the strings; and in this manner they
marched, whistling as formerly, until they
came to the place appointed for her resi-
dence, where they pitched the tent. The
husband followed, with a number of men
leading four bullocks, which they tied to
the tent strings; and having killed another,
and distributed the beef among the people,
the ceremony was concluded.
I
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
207
CHAPTER XI.
Occurrences at the Camp continued.—Infor-
mation collected by the Author, concerning
Houssa and Tombuctoo; and the Situation
of the latter.-The Route described from
Morocco to Benowm.-The Author's Dis-
tress from Hunger.-Ali removes his Camp
to the Northward.-The Author is carried
Prisoner to the new Encampment, and is
presented to Queen Fatima.-Great Dis-
tress from the Want of Water.
ONE whole month had now elapsed since
I was led into captivity; during which time,
each returning day brought me fresh dis-
tresses. I watched the lingering course of
the sun with anxiety, and blessed his even-
ing beams as they shed a yellow lustre
along the sandy floor of my hut; for it was
then that my oppressors
my oppressors left me, and allowed
me to pass the sultry night in solitude and
reflection.
About midnight, a bowl of kouskous with
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1
some salt and water was brought for me
and my two attendants; this was our com-
mon fare, and it was all that was allowed
us, to allay the cravings of hunger, and
support nature for the whole of the follow-
ing day: for it is to be observed, that this
was the Mahomedan Lent; and as the
Moors keep the fast with a religious strict-
ness, they thought it proper to compel me,
though a Christian, to a similar observance.
Time, however, somewhat reconciled me
to my situation: I found that I could bear
hunger and thirst better than I expected;
and at length, I endeavoured to beguile the
tedious hours, by learning to write Arabic.
The people who came to see me, soon made
me acquainted with the characters; and I
discovered, that by engaging their attention
in this way, they were not so troublesome
as otherwise they would have been: indeed,
when I observed any person whose counte-
nance I thought bore malice towards me, I
made it a rule to ask him, either to write
in the sand himself, or to decipher what I
had already written; and the pride of shew-
ing his superior attainments, generally in-
duced him to comply with my request.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
209
April 14th. As Queen Fatima had not
yet arrived, Ali proposed to go to the north,
and bring her back with him; but as the
place was two day's journey from Benowm,
it was necessary to have some refreshment
on the road; and Ali, suspicious of those
about him, was so afraid of being poisoned,
that he never eat any thing but what was
dressed under his own immediate inspec-
tion. A fine bullock was therefore killed,
and the flesh being cut up into thin slices,
was dried in the sun; and this, with two
bags of dry kouskous, formed his travelling
provisions.
Previous to his departure, the black peo-
ple of the town of Benowm came, according
to their annual custom, to shew their arms,
and bring their stipulated tribute of corn
and cloth. They were but badly armed;
twenty-two with musquets, forty or fifty
with bows and arrows; and nearly the same
number of men and boys, with spears only:
they arranged themselves before the tent,
where they waited until their arms were
examined and some little disputes settled.
About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed
quietly from Benowm, accompanied by a
P
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few attendants. He was expected to return
in the course of nine or ten days.
April 18th. Two days after the depar-
ture of Ali, a Shereef arrived with salt, and
some other articles, from Walet, the capital
of the kingdom of Biroo. As there was no
tent appropriated for him, he took up his
abode in the same hut with me. He seemed
to be a well informed man, and his ac-
quaintance both with the Arabic and Bam-
barra tongues, enabled him to travel, with
ease and safety, through a number of king-
doms; for though his place of residence was
Walet, he had visited Houssa, and had lived
some years at Tombuctoo. Upon my in-
quiring so particularly about the distance
from Walet to Tombuctoo, he asked me if
I intended to travel that way; and being
answered in the affirmative, he shook his
head, and said, it would not do; for that
Christians were looked upon there as the
devil's children, and enemies to the Prophet.
From him I learned the following particu-
lars; that Houssa was the largest town he
had ever seen that Walet was larger than
Tombuctoo; but being remote from the
Niger, and its trade consisting chiefly of
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211
salt, it was not so much resorted to by
strangers: that between Benowm and Walet
was ten days' journey; but the road did not
lead through any remarkable towns, and
travellers supported themselves by purchas-
milk from the Arabs, who keep their herds
by the watering-places: two of the days'
journies was over a sandy country, with-
out water. From Walet to Tombuctoo was
eleven days more; but water was more plen-
tiful, and the journey was usually performed
upon bullocks. He said there were many
Jews at Tombuctoo, but they all spoke
Arabic, and used the same prayers as the
Moors. He frequently pointed his hand to
the south-east quarter, or rather the east
by south; observing, that Tombuctoo was
situated in that direction; and though I
made him repeat this information, again
and again, I never found him to vary more
than half a point, which was to the south-
ward.
April 24th. This morning Shereef Sidi
Mahomed Moora Abdalla, a native of Mo-
rocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded with
salt. He had formerly resided some months
at Gibraltar, where he had picked up as
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much English, as enabled him to make
himself understood. He informed me, that
he had been five months in coming from
Santa Cruz; but that great part of the
time had been spent in trading. When I
requested him to enumerate the days em-
ployed in travelling from Morocco to Be-
nowm, he gave them as follows:—to Swera,
three days; to Agadier, three; to Jiniken,
ten; to Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneig, five;
to Zeeriwin-zeriman, five; to Tisheet, ten;
to Benowm, ten; in all fifty days: but tra-
vellers usually rest a long while at Jiniken
and Tisheet; at the latter of which places
they dig the rock salt, which is so great an
article of commerce with the Negroes.
In conversing with these Shereefs, and
the different strangers that resorted to the
camp, I passed my time with rather less
uneasiness than formerly. On the other
hand, as the dressing of my victuals was
now left entirely to the care of Ali's slaves,
over whom I had not the smallest control,
I found myself but ill supplied, worse even
than in the fast month; for two successive
nights they neglected to send us our accus-
tomed meal, and though my boy went to a
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
213
small Negro town near the camp, and
begged with great diligence from hut to
hut, he could only procure a few handfuls
of ground nuts, which he readily shared
with me. Hunger, at first, is certainly a
very painful sensation; but when it has
continued for some time, this pain is suc-
ceeded by languor and debility; in which
case, a draught of water, by keeping the
stomach distended, will greatly exhilarate
the spirits, and remove for a short time
every sort of uneasiness. Johnson and Demba
were very much dejected. They lay stretch-
ed upon the sand, in a sort of torpid slum-
ber; and even when the kouskous arrived,
I found some difficulty in awakening them.
I felt no inclination to sleep, but was af-
fected with a deep convulsive respiration,
like constant sighing; and, what alarmed
me still more, a dimness of sight, and a ten-
dency to faint when I attempted to sit up.
These symptoms did not go off until some
time after I had received nourishment.
We had been for some days in daily
expectation of Ali's return from Saheel
(or the north country) with his wife Fa-
tima. In the meanwhile Mansong, King
}
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TRAVELS IN THE
}
of Bambarra, as I have related in Chapter
VIII. had sent to Ali for a party of horse to
assist in storming Gedingooma. With this
demand Ali had not only refused to comply,
but had treated the messengers with
great
haughtiness and contempt; upon which
Mansong gave up all thoughts of taking
the town, and prepared to chastize Ali for
his contumacy.
Things were in this situation when, on
the 29th of April, a messenger arrived at
Benowm with the disagreeable intelligence
that the Bambarra army was approaching
the frontiers of Ludamar. This threw the
whole country into confusion; and in the
afternoon Ali's son with about twenty horse-
men arrived at Benowm. He ordered all
the cattle to be driven away immediately,
all the tents to be struck, and the people to
hold themselves in readiness to depart at
daylight the next morning.
April 30th. At daybreak the whole camp
was in motion. The baggage was carried
upon bullocks, the two tent poles being
placed one on each side, and the different
wooden articles of the tent distributed in
like manner; the tent cloth was thrown
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
215
over all, and upon this was commonly placed
one or two women; for the Moorish women
are very bad walkers. The king's favourite
concubines rode upon camels, with a saddle
of a particular construction, and a canopy
to shelter them from the sun. We pro-
ceeded to the northward until noon, when
the king's son ordered the whole company,
except two tents, to enter a thick low wood,
which was upon our right. I was sent along
with the two tents, and arrived in the even-
ing at a Negro town called Farani: here
we pitched the tents in an open place, at
no great distance from the town.
The hurry and confusion which attended
this decampment, prevented the slaves from
dressing the usual quantity of victuals; and
lest their dry provisions should be exhausted
before they reached their place of destina-
tion, (for as yet none but Ali and the chief
men knew whither we were going,) they
thought proper to make me observe this
day as a day of fasting.
May 1st. As I had some reason to sus-
pect that this day was also to be considered
as a fast, I went in the morning to the
Negro town of Farani, and begged some
216
TRAVELS IN THE
provisions from the Dooti, who readily sup-
plied my wants, and desired me to come to
his house every day during my stay in the
neighbourhood. These hospitable people
are looked upon by the Moors as an abject
race of slaves, and are treated accordingly.
Two of Ali's household slaves, a man and
a woman, who had come along with the
two tents, went this morning to water the
cattle from the town wells, at which there
began to be a great scarcity. When the
Negro women observed the cattle approach-
ing, they took up their pitchers and ran
with all possible haste towards the town,
but before they could enter the gate, they
were stopped by the slaves, who compelled
them to bring back the water they had
drawn for their own families, and empty it
into the troughs for the cattle. When this
was exhausted, they were ordered to draw
water until such time as the cattle had all
drank; and the woman slave actually broke
two wooden bowls over the heads of the
black girls, because they were somewhat
dilatory in obeying her commands.
May gd. We departed from the vici-
nity of Farani, and after a circuitous route
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
217
through the woods, arrived at Ali's camp
in the afternoon. This encampment was
larger than that of Benowm, and was situ-
ated in the middle of a thick wood about
two miles distant from a Negro town, called
Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali,
in order to pay my respects to Queen Fa-
tima, who had come with him from Saheel.
He seemed much pleased with my coming ;
shook hands with me, and informed his
wife that I was the Christian. She was a
woman of the Arab cast, with long black
hair, and remarkably corpulent. She ap-
peared at first rather shocked at the thought
of having a Christian so near her: but when
I had (by means of a Negro boy, who spoke
the Mandingo and Arabic tongues) an-
swered a great many questions, which her
curiosity suggested, respecting the country
of the Christians, she seemed more at ease,
and presented me with a bowl of milk ;
which I considered as a very favourable
omen.
The heat was now almost insufferable;
all nature seemed sinking under it. The
distant country presented to the eye a dreary
expanse of sand, with a few stunted trees
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TRAVELS IN THE
and prickly bushes, in the shade of which
the hungry cattle licked up the withered
grass, while the camels and goats picked off
the scanty foliage. The scarcity of water
was greater here than at Benowm. Day
and night the wells were crowded with cat-
tle, lowing and fighting with each other to
come at the troughs: excessive thirst made
many of them furious; others, being too
weak to contend for the water, endeavoured
to quench their thirst by devouring the black
mud from the gutters near the wells; which
they did with great avidity, though it was
commonly fatal to them.
This great scarcity of water was felt se-
verely by all the people of the camp, and
by none more than myself; for though Ali
allowed me a skin for containing water,
and Fatima, once or twice, gave me a small
supply, when I was in distress, yet such was
the barbarous disposition of the Moors at
the wells, that, when my boy attempted to
fill the skin, he commonly received a sound
drubbing for his presumption. Every one
was astonished that the slave of a Christian
should attempt to draw water from wells
which had been dug by the followers of the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
219
Prophet. This treatment, at length, so
frightened the boy, that I believe he would
sooner have perished with thirst, than at-
tempted again to fill the skin; he therefore
contented himself with begging water from
the Negro slaves that attended the camp;
and I followed his example; but with very
indifferent success; for though I let no op-
portunity slip, and was very urgent in my
solicitations, both to the Moors and the
Negroes, I was but ill supplied, and fre-
quently passed the night in the situation of
Tantalus. No sooner had I shut my eyes,
than fancy would convey me to the streams
and rivers of my native land: there, as I
wandered along the verdant brink, I sur-
veyed the clear stream with transport, and
hastened to swallow the delightful draught;
-but alas! disappointment awakened me;
and I found myself a lonely captive, perish-
ing of thirst amidst the wilds of Africa!
One night, having solicited in vain for
water at the camp, and being quite feverish,
I resolved to try my fortune at the wells,
which were about half a mile distant from
the camp. Accordingly, I set out about
midnight, and being guided by the lowing
220
TRAVELS IN THE
of the cattle, soon arrived at the place;
where I found the Moors very busy draw-
ing water. I requested permission to drink,
but was driven away with outrageous abuse.
Passing, however, from one well to another,
I came at last to one where there was only
an old man and two boys. I made the same
request to this man, and he immediately
drew me up a bucket of water; but, as I
was about to take hold of it, he recollected
that I was a Christian, and fearing that his
bucket might be polluted by my lips, he
dashed the water into the trough, and told
me to drink from thence. Though this
trough was none of the largest, and three
cows were already drinking in it, I resolved
to come in for my share; and kneeling
down, thrust my head between two of the
cows, and drank with great pleasure, until
the water was nearly exhausted, and the
cows began to contend with each other for
the last mouthful.
In adventures of this nature, I passed the
sultry month of May, during which no
material change took place in my situation.
Ali still considered me as a lawful prisoner;
and Fatima, though she allowed me a larger
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
221
quantity of victuals than I had been accus-
tomed to receive at Benowm, had as yet
said nothing on the subject of my release.
In the meantime, the frequent changes of
the wind, the gathering clouds, and distant
lightning, with other appearances of ap-
proaching rain, indicated that the wet sea-
son was at hand; when the Moors annually
evacuate the country of the Negroes, and
return to the skirts of the Great Desert.
This made me consider that my fate was
drawing towards a crisis, and I resolved to
wait for the event without any seeming un-
easiness; but circumstances occurred which
produced a change in my favour, more sud-
denly than I had foreseen, or had reason to
expect. The case was this: the fugitive
Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Luda-
mar, as I have related in Chapter VIII.
finding that the Moors were about to leave
them, and dreading the resentment of their
own sovereign, whom they had so basely
deserted, offered to treat with Ali, for two
hundred Moorish horsemen, to co-operate
with them in an effort to expel Daisy from
Gedingooma; for until Daisy should be
vanquished, or humbled, they considered
222
TRAVELS IN THE
}
that they could neither return to their na-
tive towns, nor live in security in any of
the neighbouring kingdoms. With a view
to extort money from these people, by means
of this treaty, Ali dispatched his son to Jarra,
and prepared to follow him in the course of
a few days. This was an opportunity of
too great consequence to me, to be neglect-
ed. I immediately applied to Fatima (who,
I found, had the chief direction in all affairs
of state), and begged her interest with Ali,
to give me permission to accompany him to
Jarra. This request, after some hesitation,
was favourably received. Fatima looked
kindly on me, and, I believe, was at length
moved with compassion towards me. My
bundles were brought from the large cow-
skin bag that stood in the corner of Ali's
tent, and I was ordered to explain the use
of the different articles, and shew the me-
thod of putting on the boots, stockings, &c.;
with all which I cheerfully complied, and
was told that, in the course of a few days,
I should be at liberty to depart.
Believing, therefore, that I should cer-
tainly find the means of escaping from Jarra,
if I should once get thither; I now freely
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
223
indulged the pleasing hope that my cap-
tivity would soon terminate; and happily
not having been disappointed in this idea,
I shall pause, in this place, to collect and
bring into one point of view such observa-
tions on the Moorish character, and country,
as I had no fair opportunity of introducing
into the preceding narrative.
I
224
TRAVELS IN THE
1
1
CHAPTER XII.
Containing some further miscellaneous Re-
flections on the Moorish Character, and
Manners.-Observations concerning the
Great Desert, its Animals, wild and do-
mestic, &c. &c.
THE Moors of this part of Africa, are di-
vided into many separate tribes; of which
the most formidable, according to what was
reported to me, are those of Trasart and Il
Braken, which inhabit the northern bank of
the Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah,
Jafnoo, and Ludamar, though not so nume-
rous as the former, are nevertheless very
powerful and warlike; and are each go-
verned by a chief, or king, who exercises
absolute jurisdiction over his own horde,
without acknowledging allegiance to a com-
mon sovereign. In time of peace, the em-
ployment of the people is pasturage. The
Moors, indeed, subsist chiefly on the flesh of
their cattle; and are always in the extreme
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
225
of either gluttony or abstinence. In con-
sequence of the frequent and severe fasts
which their religion enjoins, and the toil-
some journies, which they sometimes under-
take across the Desert, they are enabled to
bear both hunger and thirst with surprising
fortitude; but whenever opportunities occur
of satisfying their appetite, they generally
devour more at one meal, than would serve
an European for three. They pay but little
attention to agriculture; purchasing their
corn, cotton-cloth, and other necessaries,
from the Negroes, in exchange for salt,
which they dig from the pits in the Great
Desert.
The natural barrenness of the country is
such, that it furnishes but few materials for
manufacture. The Moors however contrive
to weave a strong cloth, with which they
cover their tents; the thread is spun by
their women, from the hair of goats; and
they prepare the hides of their cattle, so as
to furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, and
other articles of leather. They are likewise
sufficiently skilful, to convert the native
iron, which they procure from the Negroes,
into spears and knives, and also into pots
Q
226
TRAVELS IN THE
for boiling their food; but their sabres and
other weapons, as well as their fire-arms
and ammunition, they purchase from the
Europeans, in exchange for the Negro slaves
which they obtain in their predatory excur-
sions. Their chief commerce of this kind
is with the French traders, on the Senegal
river.
The Moors are rigid Mahomedans, and
possess, with the bigotry and superstition,
all the intolerance of their sect. They have
no mosques at Benowm, but perform their
devotions in a sort of open shed, or inclosure
made of mats. The priest is, at the same
time, schoolmaster to the juniors. His pupils
assemble every evening before his tent;
where, by the light of a large fire made of
brush-wood and cow's dung, they are taught
a few sentences from the Koran, and are
initiated into the principles of their creed.
Their alphabet differs but little from that
in Richardson's Arabic Grammar. They
always write with the vowel points. Their
priests even affect to know something of
foreign literature. The priest of Benowm
assured me, that he could read the writings
of the Christians: he shewed me a number
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
227
of barbarous characters, which he asserted
were the Roman alphabet; and he produced
another specimen, equally unintelligible,
which he declared to be the Kallam il Indi,
or Persian. His library consisted of nine
volumes in quarto; most of them, I believe,
were books of religion; for the name of
Mahomet appeared, in red letters, in almost
every page of each. His scholars wrote their
lessons upon thin boards; paper being too
expensive for general use. The boys were
diligent enough, and appeared to possess a
considerable share of emulation; carrying
their boards slung over their shoulders,
when about their common employments.
When a boy has committed to memory a
few of their prayers, and can read and write
certain parts of the Koran, he is reckoned
sufficiently instructed; and with this slen-
der stock of learning, commences his career
of life. Proud of his acquirements, he sur-
veys with contempt the unlettered Negro;
and embraces every opportunity of display-
ing his superiority over such of his country-
men, as are not distinguished by the same
accomplishments.
The education of the girls is neglected
Q 2
228
TRAVELS IN THE
altogether: mental accomplishments are
but little attended to by the women; nor is
the want of them considered by the men as
a defect in the female character. They are
regarded, I believe, as an inferior species of
animals; and seem to be brought up for no
other purpose, than that of administering
to the sensual pleasures of their imperious
masters. Voluptuousness is, therefore, con-
sidered as their chief accomplishment, and
slavish submission as their indispensable
duty.
The Moors have singular ideas of femi-
nine perfection. The gracefulness of figure
and motion, and a countenance enlivened
by expression, are by no means essential
points in their standard: with them, corpu-
lence and beauty appear to be terms nearly
synonymous. A woman, of even moderate
pretensions, must be one who cannot walk
without a slave under each arm to support
her; and a perfect beauty is a load for a
camel. In consequence of this prevalent
taste for unwieldiness of bulk, the Moorish
ladies take great pains to acquire it early
in life; and for this purpose, many of the
young girls are compelled by their mothers
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
229
to devour a great quantity of kouskous, and
drink a large bowl of camels' milk every
morning. It is of no importance, whether
the girl has an appetite or not; the kouskous
and milk must be swallowed; and obedience
is frequently enforced by blows. I have
seen a poor girl sit crying, with the bowl
at her lips, for more than an hour; and her
mother, with a stick in her hand, watching
her all the while, and using the stick with-
out mercy, whenever she observed that her
daughter was not swallowing: this singular
practice, instead of producing indigestion
and disease, soon covers the young lady with
that degree of plumpness, which, in the eye
of a Moor, is perfection itself.
As the Moors purchase all their clothing
from the Negroes, the women are forced to
be very economical in the article of dress.
In general, they content themselves with a
broad piece of cotton cloth, which is wrap-
ped round the middle, and hangs down like a
petticoat, almost to the ground: to the upper
part of this, are sewed two square pieces,
one before, and the other behind, which
are fastened together over the shoulders.
The head-dress, is commonly a bandage of
230
TRAVELS IN THE
!
cotton cloth, with some parts of it broader
than others, which serve to conceal the face
when they walk in the sun; frequently, how-
ever, when they go abroad, they veil them-
selves from head to foot.
The employment of the women varies,
according to their degrees of opulence.-
Queen Fatima, and a few others of high
rank, like the great ladies in some parts of
Europe, pass their time chiefly in conversing
with their visitors, performing their devo-
tions, or admiring their charms in a looking
glass. The women of inferior class employ
themselves in different domestic duties.
They are very vain, and talkative; and
when any thing puts them out of humour,
they commonly vent their anger upon their
female slaves, over whom they rule with
severe and despotic authority; which leads
me to observe, that the condition of these
poor captives is deplorably wretched. At
daybreak, they are compelled to fetch water
from the wells, in large skins called girbas;
and as soon as they have brought water
enough to serve the family for the day, as
well as the horses (for the Moors seldom
give their horses the trouble of going to the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
231
wells), they are then employed in pounding
the corn, and dressing the victuals. This
being always done in the open air, the slaves
are exposed to the combined heat of the
sun, the sand, and the fire. In the intervals,
it is their business to sweep the tent, churn
the milk, and perform other domestic offices.
With all this they are badly fed, and often-
times cruelly punished.
The mens' dress, among the Moors of
Ludamar, differs but little from that of the
Negroes (which has been already describ-
ed,) except that they have all adopted that
characteristic of the Mahomedan sect, the
turban; which is here universally made of
white cotton cloth. Such of the Moors as
have long beards, display them with a mix-
ture of pride and satisfaction, as denoting
an Arab ancestry. Of this number was Ali
himself; but among the generality of the
people, the hair is short and bushy, and
universally black. And here I may be per-
mitted to observe, that if any one circum-
stance excited among them favourable
thoughts towards my own person, it was
my beard; which was now grown to an
enormous length, and was always beheld
232
TRAVELS IN THE
with approbation or envy. I believe in my
conscience, they thought it too good a beard
for a Christian.
The only diseases which I observed to
prevail among the Moors, were the inter-
mittent fever, and dysentery: for the cure
of which, nostrums are sometimes admini-
stered by their old women; but, in general,
nature is left to her own'operations. Men-
tion was made to me of the small-pox, as
being sometimes very destructive; but it
had not, to my knowledge, made its appear-
ance in Ludamar while I was in captivity.
That it prevails, however, among some
tribes of the Moors, and that it is frequently
conveyed by them to the Negroes in the
southern states, I was assured, on the au-
thority of Dr. Laidley; who also informed
me, that the Negroes on the Gambia prac-
tise inoculation.
The administration of criminal justice, as
far as I had opportunities of observing, was
prompt and decisive. For, although civil
rights were but little regarded in Ludamar,
it was necessary, when crimes were com-
mitted, that examples should sometimes be
made. On such occasions, the offender was
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
233
brought before Ali, who pronounced, of his
sole authority, what judgment he thought
proper. But I understood that capital pu-
nishment was seldom or never inflicted, ex-
cept on the Negroes.
Although the wealth of the Moors con-
sists chiefly in their numerous herds of
cattle; yet, as the pastoral life does not
afford full employment, the majority of the
people are perfectly idle, and spend the day
in trifling conversation about their horses,
or in laying schemes of depredation on the
Negro villages.
The usual place of rendezvous for the
indolent, is the King's tent; where great
liberty of speech seems to be exercised by
the company towards each other; while in
speaking of their chief, they express but one
opinion. In praise of their sovereign, they
are unanimous. Songs are composed in his
honour, which the company frequently sing
in concert; but they are so loaded with
gross adulation, that no man but a Moorish
despot, could hear them without blushing.
The king is distinguished by the fineness.
of his dress; which is composed of blue
cotton cloth, brought from Tombuctoo, or
234
TRAVELS IN THE
t
ค
white linen or muslin from Morocco. He
has likewise a larger tent than any other
person, with a white cloth over it; but, in
his usual intercourse with his subjects, all
distinctions of rank are frequently forgotten.
He sometimes eats out of the same bowl
with his camel driver, and reposes himself,
during the heat of the day, upon the same
bed. The expences of his government and
household are defrayed by a tax upon his
Negro subjects, which is paid by every
householder, either in corn, cloth, or gold
dust; a tax upon the different Moorish
Korrees, or watering places, which is com-
monly levied in cattle; and a tax upon all
merchandize which passes through the king-
dom, and is generally collected in kind. But
a considerable part of the king's revenue
arises from the plunder of individuals. The
Negro inhabitants of Ludamar, and the tra-
velling merchants, are afraid of appearing
rich; for Ali, who has spies stationed in the
different towns, to give him information
concerning the wealth of his subjects, fre-
quently invents some frivolous plea for seiz-
ing their property, and reducing the opulent
to a level with their fellow citizens.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
235
Of the number of Ali's Moorish subjects,
I had no means of forming a correct esti-
mate. The military strength of Ludamar
consists in cavalry. They are well mounted,
and appear to be very expert in skirmishing
and attacking by surprise. Every soldier
furnishes his own horse, and finds his ac-
coutrements, consisting of a large sabre, a
double barrelled gun, a small red leather
bag for holding his balls, and a powder horn
slung over the shoulder He has no pay,
nor any remuneration but what arises from
plunder. This body is not very numerous,
for when Ali made war upon Bambarra, I
was informed that his whole force did not
exceed two thousand cavalry. They consti-
tute, however, by what I could learn, but a
very small proportion of his Moorish sub-
jects. The horses are very beautiful, and
so highly esteemed, that the Negro princes
will sometimes give from twelve to fourteen
slaves for one horse.
Ludamar has for its northern boundary,
the Great Desert of Sahara. From the best
inquiries I could make, this vast ocean of
sand, which occupies so large a space in
Northern Africa, may be pronounced almost
236
TRAVELS IN THE
destitute of inhabitants; except where the
scanty vegetation which appears in certain
spots, affords pasturage for the flocks of a
few miserable Arabs, who wander from one
well to another. In other places, where the
supply of water and pasturage is more
abundant, small parties of the Moors have
taken up their residence. Here they live,
in independent poverty, secure from the
tyrannical government of Barbary. But the
greater part of the Desert, being totally
destitute of water, is seldom visited by any
human being; unless where the trading
caravans trace out their toilsome and dan-
gerous route across it. In some parts of this
extensive waste, the ground is covered with
low stunted shrubs, which serve as land-
marks for the caravans, and furnish the
camels with a scanty forage. In other parts
the disconsolate wanderer, wherever he
turns, sees nothing around him but a vast
interminable expanse of sand and sky; a
gloomy and barren void, where the
eye finds
no particular object to rest upon, and the
mind is filled with painful apprehensions of
perishing with thirst. "Surrounded by this
dreary solitude, the traveller sees the dead
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
237
bodies of birds, that the violence of the
wind has brought from happier regions; and
as he ruminates on the fearful length of his
remaining passage, listens with horror to
the voice of the driving blast; the only
sound that interrupts the awful repose of
the Desert."*
The few wild animals which inhabit these
melancholy regions, are the antelope and
the ostrich; their swiftness of foot enabling
them to reach the distant watering-places.
On the skirts of the Desert, where water is
more plentiful, are found lions, panthers,
elephants, and wild boars.
Of domestic animals, the only one that
can endure the fatigue of crossing the De-
sert, is the camel. By the particular con-
formation of the stomach, he is enabled to
carry a supply of water sufficient for ten or
twelve days; his broad and yielding foot, is
well adapted for a sandy country; and by
a singular motion of his upper lip, he picks
the smallest leaves from the thorny shrubs
of the Desert as he passes along. The camel
is, therefore, the only beast of burthen
employed by the trading caravans, which
*
Proceedings of the African Association, Part I.
238
TRAVELS IN THE
traverse the Desert in different directions,
from Barbary to Nigritia. As this useful
and docile creature has been sufficiently
described by systematical writers, it is un-
necessary for me to enlarge upon his pro-
perties. I shall only add, that his flesh,
though to my own taste dry and unsavoury,
is preferred by the Moors to any other;
and that the milk of the female is in uni-
versal esteem, and is indeed sweet, pleasant,
and nutritive.
I have observed that the Moors, in their
complexion, resemble the Mulattoes of the
West Indies; but they have something un-
pleasant in their aspect, which the Mulattoes
have not. I fancied that I discovered in the
features of most of them, a disposition to-
wards cruelty, and low cunning; and I
could never contemplate their physiognomy,
without feeling sensible uneasiness. From
the staring wildness of their eyes, a stranger
would immediately set them down as a
nation of lunatics. The treachery and ma-
levolence of their character, are manifested
in their plundering excursions against the
Negro villages. Oftentimes, without the
smallest provocation, and sometimes, under
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
239
the fairest professions of friendship, they
will suddenly seize upon the Negroes' cat-
tle, and even on the inhabitants themselves.
The Negroes very seldom retaliate. The
enterprizing boldness of the Moors, their
knowledge of the country, and, above all,
the superior fleetness of their horses, make
them such formidable enemies, that the
petty Negro states which border upon the
Desert, are in continual terror while the
Moorish tribes are in the vicinity, and are
too much awed to think of resistance.
Like the roving Arabs, the Moors fre-
quently remove from one place to another;
according to the season of the year, or the
convenience of pasturage. In the month of
February, when the heat of the sun scorches
up every sort of vegetation in the Desert,
they strike their tents, and approach the
Negro country to the south; where they
reside until the rains commence in the
month of July. At this time, having pur-
chased corn, and other necessaries from the
Negroes, in exchange for salt, they again
depart to the northward, and continue in
the Desert until the rains are over, and that
240
TRAVELS IN THE
#
part of the country becomes burnt up and
barren.
way
This wandering and restless of life,
while it inures them to hardships, strength-
ens, at the same time, the bonds of their
little society, and creates in them an aver-
sion towards strangers, which is almost in-
surmountable. Cut off from all intercourse
with civilized nations, and boasting an ad-
vantage over the Negroes, by possessing,
though in a very limited degree, the know-
ledge of letters, they are at once the vainest
and proudest, and perhaps, the most bigotted,
ferocious, and intolerant of all the nations
on the earth; combining in their character,
the blind superstition of the Negro, with the
savage cruelty and treachery of the Arab.
It is probable that many of them had
never beheld a white man, before my arrival
at Benowm but they had all been taught
to regard the Christian name with incon-
ceivable abhorrence, and to consider it nearly
as lawful to murder a European, as it would
be to kill a dog. The melancholy fate of
Major Houghton, and the treatment I ex-
perienced during my confinement among
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
241
them, will, I trust, serve as a warning to
future travellers to avoid this inhospitable
district.
The reader may probably have expected
from me a more detailed and copious account
of the manners, customs, superstitions, and
prejudices, of this secluded and singular
people; but it must not be forgotten, that
the wretchedness of my situation among
them, afforded me but few opportunities of
collecting information. Some particulars,
however, might be added in this place; but
being equally applicable to the Negroes to
the southward, they will appear in a sub-
sequent page.
R
242
TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XIII.
Ali departs for Farra, and the Author allowed
to follow him thither.-The Author's faith-
ful Servant, Demba, seized by Ali's Order,
and sent back into Slavery.-Ali returns to
his Camp, and permits the Author to remain
at Farra, who, thenceforward, meditates
his Escape.-Daisy, King of Kaarta, ap-
proaching with his Army towards Jarra,
the Inhabitants quit the Town, and the
Author accompanies them in their Flight.-
A Party of Moors overtake him at Queira.
-He gets away from them at Day-break:
—is again pursued by another Party, and
robbed; but finally effects his Escape.
HAVING, as hath been related, obtained
permission to accompany Ali to Jarra, I
took leave of Queen Fatima, who with much
grace and civility, returned me part of my
apparel; and the evening before my depar-
ture, my horse, with the saddle and bridle,
were sent me by Ali's order.
1
243
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
Early on the morning of the 26th of May,
I departed from the camp of Bubaker, ac-
companied by my two attendants, Johnson
and Demba, and a number of Moors on
horseback; Ali, with about fifty horsemen,
having gone privately from the camp du-
ring the night. We stopped about noon at
Farani, and were there joined by twelve
Moors riding upon camels, and with them
we proceeded to a watering-place in the
woods, where we overtook Ali and his fifty
horsemen. They were lodged in some low
shepherds' tents near the wells. As the
company was numerous, the tents could
scarcely accommodate us all; and I was
ordered to sleep in the open space, in the
centre of the tents, where every one might
observe my motions. During the night,
there was much lightning from the north-
east; and about daybreak a very heavy
sand-wind commenced, which continued
with great violence until four in the after-
noon. The quantity of sand which passed
to the westward in the course of this day,
must have been prodigiously great. At
times it was impossible to look up; and the
cattle were so tormented by the particles
·
Ꭱ Ꮮ
244
TRAVELS IN THE
lodging in their ears and eyes, that they
ran about like mad creatures. and I was in
continual danger of being trampled to death
by them,
n
May 28th. Early in the morning the
Moors saddled their horses, and Ali's chief
slave ordered me to get in readiness. In a
little time the same messenger returned,
and taking my boy by the shoulder, told
him in the Mandingo language, that " Ali
was to be his master in future;" and then
turning to me, "the business is settled at
last (said he); the boy, and every thing but
your horse, goes back to Bubaker; but you
may take the old fool (meaning Johnson the
interpreter) with you to Jarra." I made
him no answer; but being shocked beyond
description at the idea of losing the poor
boy, I hastened to Ali, who was at break-
fast before his tent, surrounded by many of
his courtiers. I told him (perhaps in rather
too passionate a strain,) that whatever im-
prudence I had been guilty of, in coming
into his country, I thought I had already
been sufficiently punished for it, by being
so long detained; and then plundered of all
my little property; which, however, gave
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
245
me no uneasiness, when compared with
what he had just now done to me. I ob-
served, that the boy which he had now
seized upon, was not a slave, and had been
accused of no offence: he was indeed one of
my attendants; and his faithful services in
that station, had procured him his freedom:
his fidelity and attachment had made him
follow me into my present situation; and
as he looked up to me for protection, I could
not see him deprived of his liberty, without
remonstrating against such an act, as the
height of cruelty and injustice. Ali made
no reply, but with a haughty air and malig-
nant smile, told his interpreter, that if I
did not mount my horse immediately, he
would send me back likewise. There is
something in the frown of a tyrant which
rouzes the most secret emotions of the heart:
I could not suppress my feelings; and for
once entertained an indignant wish to rid
the world of such a monster.
Poor Demba was not less affected than
myself; he had formed a strong attach-
ment towards me, and had a cheerfulness
of disposition, which often beguiled the
246
TRAVELS IN THE
{
in
tedious hours of captivity: he was likewise
a proficient the Bambarra tongue, and pro-
mised on that account to be of great utility
to me in future. But it was in vain to
expect any thing favourable to humanity,
from people who are strangers to its dic-
tates. So having shaken hands with this
unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with
his, assuring him, however, that I would do
my utmost to redeem him, I saw him led
off by three of Ali's slaves, towards the
camp at Bubaker.
When the Moors had mounted their
horses, I was ordered to follow them; and
after a toilsome journey through the woods,
in a very sultry day, we arrived in the after-
noon at a walled village, called Doombani;
where we remained two days, waiting for
the arrival of some horsemen from the
northward.
On the 1st of June, we departed from
Doombani towards Jarra. Our company
now amounted to two hundred men, all on
horseback; for the Moors never use infan-
try in their wars. They appeared capable
of enduring great fatigue; but from their
{
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
247
total want of discipline, our journey to Jarra
was more like a fox-chase, than the march
of an army.
At Jarra, I took up my lodging at the
house of my old acquaintance, Daman Jum-
ma; and informed him of every thing that
had befallen me. I particularly requested
him to use his interest with Ali, to redeem
my boy, and promised him a bill upon Dr.
Laidley, for the value of two slaves, the
moment he brought him to Jarra. Daman
very readily undertook to negotiate the bu-
siness; but found that Ali considered the
boy as my principal interpreter, and was
unwilling to part with him, lest he should
fall a second time into my hands, and be
instrumental in conducting me to Bambarra.
Ali therefore put off the matter from day
to day; but withal told Daman, that if he
wished to purchase the boy for himself, he
should have him thereafter, at the common
price of a slave; which Daman agreed to
pay for him, whenever Ali should send him
to Jarra.
The chief object of Ali, in this journey
to Jarra, as I have already related, was to
procure money from such of the Kaartans
248
TRAVELS IN THE
as had taken refuge in his country. Some
of these had solicited his protection, to avoid
the horrors of war; but by far the greatest
number of them were dissatisfied men, who
wished the ruin of their own sovereign.
These people no sooner heard that the Bam-
barran army had returned to Sego without
subduing Daisy, as was generally expected,
than they resolved to make a sudden attack,
themselves upon him, before he could recruit
his forces, which were now known to be
much diminished by a bloody campaign,
and in great want of provisions. With this
view, they solicited the Moors to join them,
and offered to hire of Ali two hundred horse-
men; which Ali, with the warmest profes-
sions of friendship, agreed to furnish, upon
condition that they should previously supply
him with four hundred head of cattle, two
hundred garments of blue cloth, and a con-
siderable quantity of beads and ornaments.
The raising this impost, somewhat per-
plexed them; and in order to procure the
cattle, they persuaded the king to demand
one-half the stipulated number from the
people of Jarra; promising to replace them
in a short time. Ali agreed to this proposal,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
249
and the same evening (June 2d) the drum
was sent through the town; and the crier
announced, that if any person suffered his
cattle to go into the woods, the next morn-
ing, before the king had chosen his quota
of them, his house should be plundered,
and his slaves taken from him. The people
dared not disobey the proclamation; and
next morning about two hundred of their
best cattle were selected, and delivered to
the Moors: the full complement was made
up afterwards, by means equally unjust and
arbitrary.
June 8th. In the afternoon, Ali sent his
chief slave to inform me, that he was about
to return to Bubaker; but as he would only
stay there a few days, to keep the approach-
ing festival (Banna Salee), and then return
to Jarra, I had permission to remain with
Daman until his return. This was joyful
news to me; but I had experienced so many
disappointments, that I was unwilling to
indulge the hope of its being true, until
Johnson came and told me that Ali, with
part of the horsemen, were actually gone
from the town, and that the rest were to
follow him in the morning.
250
TRAVELS IN THE
1
4
June 9th. Early in the morning, the
remainder of the Moors departed from the
town. They had, during their stay, com-
mitted many acts of robbery; and this
morning, with the most unparalleled auda-
city, they seized upon three girls, who were
bringing water from the wells, and carried
them away into slavery.
The anniversary of Banna Salee, at Jarra,
very
well deserved to be called a festival.
The slaves were all finely clad on this
occasion, and the householders vied with
each other in providing large quantities of
victuals, which they distributed to all their
neighbours, with the greatest profusion:
hunger was literally banished from the
town; man, woman, and child, bond and
free, all had as much as they could eat.
as
June 12. Two people, dreadfully wound-
ed, were discovered at a watering-place, in
the woods; one of them had just breathed
his last, but the other was brought alive to
Jarra. On recovering a little, he informed
the people, that he had fled through the
woods from Kasson; that Daisy had made
war upon Sambo, the king of that country;
had surprised three of his towns, and put
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
251
+
all the inhabitants to the sword. He enu-
merated by name, many of the friends of
the Jarra people, who had been murdered in
Kasson. This intelligence made the death-
howl universal in Jarra, for the space of
two days.
L
This piece of bad news, was followed by
another, not less distressing. A number of
runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta on the
14th, and reported that Daisy, having re-
ceived information concerning the intended
attack upon him, was about to visit Jarra.
This made the Negroes call upon Ali for
the two hundred horsemen, which he was
to furnish them, according to engagement.
But Ali paid very little attention to their re-
monstrances; and at last plainly told them,
that his cavalry were otherwise employed.
The Negroes, thus deserted by the Moors,
and fully apprised that the king of Kaarta
would shew them as little clemency, as he
had shewn the inhabitants of Kasson, re-
solved to collect all their forces, and hazard
a battle, before the king, who was now in
great distress for want of provisions, should
become too powerful for them. They there-
fore assembled about eight hundred effective
252
TRAVELS IN THE
men in the whole; and with these they
entered Kaarta, on the evening of the 18th
of June.
June
19. This morning the wind shifted
to the south-west; and about two o'clock
in the afternoon we had a heavy tornado,
or thunder squall, accompanied with rain,
which greatly revived the face of nature,
and gave a pleasant coolness to the air.
This was the first rain that had fallen for
many months.
As every attempt to redeem my boy had
hitherto been unsuccessful, and in all pro-
bability would continue to prove so, whilst
I remained in the country; I found that
it was necessary for me to come to some
determination concerning my own safety,
before the rains should be fully set in; for
my landlord, seeing no likelihood of being
paid for his trouble, began to wish me
away; and Johnson, my interpreter, refus-
ing to proceed, my situation became very
perplexing. If I continued where I was, I
foresaw that I must soon fall a victim to
the barbarity of the Moors; and yet if I
went forward singly, it was evident that I
must sustain great difficulties, both from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
253
the want of means to purchase the neces-
saries of life, and of an interpreter to make
myself understood. On the other hand, to
return to England without accomplishing
the object of my mission, was worse than
either. I therefore determined to avail my-
self of the first opportunity of escaping,
and to proceed directly for Bambarra, as
soon as the rains had set in for a few days,
so as to afford me the certainty of finding
water in the woods.
Such was my situation, when, on the
evening of the 24th of June, I was startled
by the report of some muskets close to the
town, and inquiring the reason, was in-
formed that the Jarra army had returned
from fighting Daisy, and that this firing
was by way of rejoicing. However, when
the chief men of the town had assembled,
and heard a full detail of the expedition,
they were by no means relieved from their
uneasiness on Daisy's account. The deceit-
ful Moors having drawn back from the con-
federacy, after being hired by the Negroes,
greatly dispirited the insurgents; who, in-
stead of finding Daisy with a few friends con-
cealed in the strong fortress of Gedingooma,
254
TRAVELS IN THE
had found him at a town near Joka, in the
open country, surrounded by so numerous
an army, that every attempt to attack him
was at once given up; and the confederates
only thought of enriching themselves, by
the plunder of the small towns in the neigh-
bourhood. They accordingly fell upon one
of Daisy's towns, and carried off the whole
of the inhabitants; but lest intelligence of
this might reach Daisy, and induce him to
cut off their retreat, they returned through
the woods by night, bringing with them the
slaves and cattle which they had captured.
June 26th. This afternoon, a spy from
Kaarta, brought the alarming intelligence,
that Daisy had taken Simbing in the morn-
ing, and would be in Jarra some time in the
course of the ensuing day. A number of
people were immediately stationed on the
tops of the rocks, and in the different pas-
sages leading into the town, to give early
intelligence of Daisy's motions, and the
women set about making the necessary
preparations for quitting the town as soon
as possible. They continued beating corn,
and packing up different articles, during the
night; and early in the morning, nearly
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
255
one half of the townspeople took the road
for Bambarra, by the way of Deena.
Their departure was very affecting the
women and children crying; the men sullen
and dejected; and all of them looking back
with regret on their native town, and on
the wells and rocks, beyond which their
ambition had never tempted them to stray,
and where they had laid all their plans of
future happiness; all of which they were
now forced to abandon, and to seek shelter
among strangers.
June 27th. About eleven o'clock in the
forenoon, we were alarmed by the centinels,
who brought information that Daisy was on
his march towards Jarra, and that the con-
federate army had fled before him without
firing a gun. The terror of the townspeople
on this occasion is not easily to be describ-
ed. Indeed, the screams of the women and
children, and the great hurry and confusion
that every where prevailed, made me sus-
pect that the Kaartans had already entered
the town; and although I had every reason
to be pleased with Daisy's behaviour to me
when I was at Kemmoo, I had no wish to
expose myself to the mercy of his
army,
256
TRAVELS IN THE
horse
who might, in the general confusion, mis-
take me for a Moor. I therefore mounted
my horse, and taking a large bag of corn
before me, rode slowly along with the towns-
people, until we reached the foot of a rocky
hill, where I dismounted, and drove
my
up before me. When I had reached the
summit, I sat down, and having a full view
of the town, and the neighbouring country,
could not help lamenting the situation of
the poor inhabitants, who were thronging
after me, driving their sheep, cows, goats,
&c. and carrying a scanty portion of pro-
visions, and a few clothes. There was a
great noise and crying every where upon
the road; for many aged people and chil-
dren were unable to walk, and these, with
the sick, were obliged to be carried, other-
wise they must have been left to certain
destruction.
About five o'clock we arrived at a small
farm, belonging to the Jarra people, called
Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and
Johnson employed in filling large bags of
corn, to be carried upon bullocks, to serve
as provisions for Daman's family on the
road.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
257
June 28th. At daybreak, we departed
from Kadeeja; and, having passed Troon-
goomba, without stopping, arrived in the
afternoon at Queira. I remained here two
days, in order to recruit my horse, which
the Moors had reduced to a perfect Rosi-
nante, and to wait for the arrival of some
Mandingo Negroes, who were going for
Bambarra in the course of a few days.
On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I
was tending my horse in the fields, Ali's
chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira,
and took up their lodging at the Dooty's
house. My interpreter, Johnson, who sus-
pected the nature of this visit, sent two boys
to overhear their conversation; from which
he learnt that they were sent to convey me
back to Bubaker. The same evening, two
of the Moors came privately to look at my
horse, and one of them proposed taking it
to the Dooty's hut, but the other observed
that such a precaution was unnecessary, as
I could never escape upon such an animal.
They then inquired where I slept, and re-
turned to their companions.
All this was like a stroke of thunder to
me, for I dreaded nothing so much as
S
258
TRAVELS IN THE
confinement again among the Moors; from
whose barbarity I had nothing but death to
expect. I therefore determined to set off
immediately for Bambarra; a measure which
I thought offered almost the only chance of
saving my life, and gaining the object of my
mission. Icommunicated the design to John-
son, who, although he applauded my resolu-
tion, was so far from shewing any inclination
to accompany me, that he solemnly protested,
he would rather forfeit his
wages, than
go
any farther. He told me that Daman had
agreed to give him half the price of a slave
for his service, to assist in conducting a coffle
of slaves to Gambia, and that he was deter-
mined to embrace the opportunity of re-
turning to his wife and family.
Having no hopes therefore of persuading
him to accompany me, I resolved to proceed
by myself. About midnight I got my clothes
in readiness, which consisted of two shirts,
two pair of trowsers, two pocket-handker-
chiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a hat,
and a pair of half boots; these, with a
cloak, constituted my whole wardrobe.-
And I had not one single bead, nor any
other article of value in my possession, to
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
259
purchase victuals for myself, or corn for my
horse.
About day break, Johnson, who had been
listening to the Moors all night, came and
whispered to me that they were asleep.
The awful crisis was now arrived, when I
was again either to taste the blessing of
freedom, or languish out my days in capti-
vity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead,
as I thought on the dreadful alternative,
and reflected, that, one way or the other,
my
fate must be decided in the course of
the ensuing day. But to deliberate, was to
lose the only chance of escaping. So taking
up my bundle, I stepped gently over the
Negroes, who were sleeping in the open
air, and having mounted my horse, I bade
Johnson farewell, desiring him to take par-
ticular care of the papers I had entrusted
him with, and inform my friends in Gambia
that he had left me in good health, on my
way to Bambarra.
I proceeded with great caution; survey-
ing each bush, and frequently listening and
looking behind me for the Moorish horse-
men, until I was about a mile from the
town, when I was surprised to find myself
S 2
260
TRAVELS IN THE
in the neighbourhood of a Korree, belonging
to the Moors. The shepherds followed me
for about a mile, hooting, and throwing
stones after me; and when I was out of their
reach, and had begun to indulge the pleas-
ing hopes of escaping, I was again greatly
alarıned to hear somebody holla behind
me; and looking back, I saw three Moors
on horseback, coming after me at full speed;
whooping and brandishing their double-
barrelled guns. I knew it was in vain to
think of escaping, and therefore turned back
and met them: when two of them caught
hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the
third, presenting his musket, told me I must
go back to Ali. When the human mind
has for some time been fluctuating between
hope and despair, tortured with anxiety, and
hurried from one extreme to another, it
affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the
worst that can possibly happen: such was
my situation. An indifference about life,
and all its enjoyments, had completely be-
numbed my faculties, and I rode back with
the Moors with apparent unconcern. But
took place much sooner than I had
any reason to expect. In passing through
a ch
nge
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
261
some thick bushes, one of the Moors ordered
me to untie my bundle, and shew them the
contents. Having examined the different
articles, they found nothing worth taking
except my cloak, which they considered as
a very valuable acquisition, and one of them
pulling it from me, wrapped it about him-
self. This cloak had been of great use to
me; it served to cover me from the rains
in the day, and to protect me from the
musketoes in the night; I therefore ear-
nestly begged him to return it, and followed
him some little way to obtain it; but with-
out paying any attention to my request, he
and one of his companions rode off with
their prize. When I attempted to follow
them, the third, who had remained with
me, struck my horse over the head, and pre-
senting his musket, told me I should pro-
ceed no further. I now perceived that these
men had not been sent by any authority to
apprehend me, but had pursued me solely in
the view to rob and plunder me. Turning
my horse's head therefore once more to-
wards the east, and observing the Moor
follow the track of his confederates, I con-
gratulated myself on having escaped with
262
TRAVELS IN THE
***
my life, though in great distress, from such
a horde of barbarians...!!
I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor,
than I struck into the woods, to prevent
being pursued, and kept pushing on, with
all possible speed, until I found myself near
some high rocks, which I remembered to
have seen in my former route from Queira
to Deena: and directing my course a little
to the northward, I fortunately fell in with
the path.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
263
(
CHAPTER XIV.
The Author feels great Joy at his Deliverance,
and proceeds through the Wilderness; but
finds his Situation very deplorable.—Suf-
fers greatly from Thirst, and faints on the
Sand:-recovers, and makes another Ef-
fort to push forward.-Is providentially
relieved by a Fall of Rain.-Arrives at a
Foulab Village, where he is refused Relief
by the Dooty; but obtains Food from a poor
Woman.-Continues his Journey through
the Wilderness, and the next Day lights on
another Foulab Village, where he is hos-
pitably received by one of the Shepherds.—
Arrives on the third Day at a Negro Town
called Wawra, tributary to the King of
Bambarra.
T
It is impossible to describe the joy that
arose in my mind, when I looked around
and concluded that I was out of danger.
I felt like one recovered from sickness;
264
TRAVELS IN THE
I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness
in my limbs; even the Desert looked plea-
sant; and I dreaded nothing so much as
falling in with some wandering parties of
Moors, who might convey me back to the
land of thieves and murderers, from which
I had just escaped.
I soon became sensible, however, that my
situation was very deplorable; for I had no
means of procuring food, nor prospect of
finding water. About ten o'clock, per-
ceiving a herd of goats feeding close to the
road, I took a circuitous route to avoid being
seen; and continued travelling through the
Wilderness, directing my course, by com-
pass, nearly east-south-east, in order to
reach, as soon as possible, some town or
village of the kingdom of Bambarra.
A little after noon, when the burning
heat of the sun was reflected with double
violence from the hot sand, and the distant
ridges of the hills, seen through the ascend-
ing vapour, seemed to wave and fluctuate
like the unsettled sea, I became faint with
thirst, and climbed a tree in hopes of see-
ing distant smoke, or some other appear-
ance of a human habitation; but in vain :
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
265
ક્
nothing appeared all around but thick un-
derwood, and hillocks of white sand.
About four o'clock, I came suddenly upon
a large herd of goats, and pulling my horse
into a bush, I watched to observe if the
keepers were Moors or Negroes. In a little
time I perceived two Moorish boys, and
with some difficulty persuaded them to ap-
proach me. They informed me that the
herd belonged to Ali, and that they were
going to Deena, where the water was more
plentiful, and where they intended to stay,
until the rain had filled the pools in the
Desert. They shewed me their empty water-
skins, and told me that they had seen no
water in the woods. This account afforded
me but little consolation; however, it was
in vain to repine, and I pushed on as fast
as possible, in hopes of reaching some water-
ing-place in the course of the night. My
thirst was by this time become insufferable;
my mouth was parched and inflamed; a
sudden dimness would frequently come over
my eyes, with other symptoms of fainting;
and my horse being very much fatigued, I
began seriously to apprehend that I should
perish of thirst. To relieve the burning
+
266
TRAVELS IN THE
pain in my mouth and throat, I chewed the
leaves of different shrubs, but found them
all bitter, and of no service to me.
A little before sunset, having reached the
top of a gentle rising, I climbed a high tree,
from the topmost branches of which I cast
a melancholy look over the barren Wilder-
ness, but without discovering the most dis-
tant trace of a human dwelling. The same
dismal uniformity of shrubs and sand every
where presented itself, and the horizon was
as level and uninterrupted as that of the
sea.
Descending from the tree, I found my
horse devouring the stubble and brushwood
with great avidity; and as I was now too
faint to attempt walking, and my horse too
much fatigued to carry me, I thought it but
an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I
should ever have it in my power to perform,
to take off his bridle and let him shift for
himself; in doing which I was suddenly
affected with sickness and giddiness; and
falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of
death was fast approaching. "Here then,
CC
CC
(thought I,) after a short but ineffectual
struggle, terminate all my hopes of being
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
267
"useful in my day and generation here
"must the short span of my life come to
"an end."-I cast (as I believed) a last
look on the surrounding scene, and whilst
I reflected on the awful change that was
about to take place, this world with its en-
joyments seemed to vanish from my recol-
lection. Nature, however, at length resumed
its functions; and on recovering my senses,
I found myself stretched upon the sand,
with the bridle still in my hand, and the
sun just sinking behind the trees. I now
summoned all my resolution, and deter-
mined to make another effort to prolong
my existence. And as the evening was
somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far
as my limbs would carry me, in hopes of
reaching (my only resource) a watering-
place. With this view, I put the bridle on
my horse, and driving him before me, went
slowly along for about an hour, when I per-
ceived some lightning from the north-east;
a most delightful sight; for it promised
rain. The darkness and lightning increased
very rapidly; and in less than an hour I
heard the wind roaring among the bushes.
I had already opened my mouth to receive
{
268
TRAVELS IN THE
the refreshing drops which I expected; but
I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand,
driven with such force by the wind, as to
give a very disagreeable sensation to my
face and arms; and I was obliged to mount
my horse, and stop under a bush, to prevent
being suffocated. The sand continued to fly
in amazing quantities for near an hour, after
which I again set forward, and travelled
with difficulty, until ten o'clock. About
this time I was agreeably surprised by some
very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by
a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time
the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted, and
spread out all my clean clothes to collect
the rain, which at length I saw would cer-
tainly fall. For more than an hour it rained
plentifully, and I quenched my thirst, by
wringing and sucking my clothes.
There being no moon, it was remarkably
dark, so that I was obliged to lead my horse,
and direct my way by the compass, which
the lightning enabled me to observe. In
this manner I travelled, with tolerable ex-
pedition, until past midnight; when, the
lightning becoming more distant, I was
under the necessity of groping along, to the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
269
no small danger of my hands and eyes.
About two o'clock my horse started at
something, and looking round, I was not a
little surprised to see a light at a short dis-
tance among the trees, and supposing it to
be a town, I groped along the sand in hopes
of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other ap-
pearances of cultivation, but found none.
As I approached, I perceived a number of
other lights in different places, and began
to suspect that I had fallen upon a party of
Moors. However, in my present situation,
I was resolved to see who they were, if I
could do it with safety. I accordingly led
my horse cautiously towards the light, and
heard by the lowing of the cattle, and the
clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, that it
was a watering-place, and most likely be-
longed to the Moors. Delightful as the
sound of the human voice was to me, I re-
solved once more to strike into the woods,
and rather run the risk of perishing of hun-
ger, than trust myself again in their hands;
but being still thirsty, and dreading the
approach of the burning day, I thought it
prudent to search for the wells, which I
expected to find at no great distance. In
270
TRAVELS IN THE
this pursuit, I inadvertently approached so
near to one of the tents, as to be perceived
by a woman, who immediately screamed
out. Two people came running to her assist-
ance from some of the neighbouring tents,
and passed so very near to me, that I thought
I was discovered; and hastened again into
the woods.
About a mile from this place, I heard a
loud and confused noise somewhere to the
right of my course, and in a short time was
happy to find it was the croaking of frogs,
which was heavenly music to my ears. I
followed the sound, and at daybreak arrived
at some shallow muddy pools, so full of
frogs, that it was difficult to discern the
water. The noise they made frightened my
horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet,
by beating the water with a branch until
he had drank. Having here quenched my
thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning
being calm, I soon perceived the smoke of
the watering-place which I had passed in
the night; and observed another pillar of
smoke east-south-east, distant 12 or 14
miles. Towards this I directed my route,
and reached the cultivated ground a little
}
INTERIOR OF AFRICA,
271
before eleven o'clock; where seeing a num-
ber of Negroes at work planting corn, I
inquired the name of the town; and was
informed that it was a Foulah village, be-
longing to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now
some doubts about entering it; but my horse
being very much fatigued, and the day
growing hot, not to mention the pangs of
hunger which began to assail me, I resolved
to venture; and accordingly rode up to the
Dooty's house, where I was unfortunately
denied admittance, and could not obtain
even a handful of corn either for myself or
horse. Turning from this inhospitable door,
I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiv-
ing some low scattered huts without the
walls, I directed my route towards them;
knowing that in Africa, as well as in Eu-
rope, hospitality does not always prefer the
highest dwellings. At the door of one of
these huts, an old motherly-looking woman
sat, spinning cotton; I made signs to her
that I was hungry, and inquired if she had
any victuals with her in the hut. She imme-
diately laid down her distaff, and desired
me, in Arabic, to come in. When I had
seated myself upon the floor, she set before
$
272
TRAVELS IN THE
me a dish of kouskous, that had been left
the preceding night, of which I made a
tolerable meal; and in return for this kind-
ness I gave her one of my pocket-hand-
kerchiefs; begging at the same time, a
little corn for my horse, which she readily
brought me.
Overcome with joy at so unexpected a
deliverance, I lifted up my eyes to heaven,
and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude,
I returned thanks to that gracious and boun-
tiful Being, whose power had supported me
under so many dangers, and had now spread
for me a table in the Wilderness.
Whilst my horse was feeding, the people
began to assemble, and one of them whis-
pered something to my hostess, which very
much excited her surprise. Though I was
not well acquainted with the Foulah lan-
guage, I soon discovered that some of the
men wished to apprehend and carry me
back to Ali; in hopes, I suppose, of receiv-
ing a reward. I therefore tied up the corn;
and lest any one should suspect I had ran
away from the Moors, I took a northerly
direction, and went cheerfully along, driv-
ing my horse before me, followed by all the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
273
boys and girls of the town. When I had
travelled about two miles, and got quit of
all my troublesome attendants, I struck
again into the woods, and took shelter under
a large tree; where I found it necessary to
rest myself; a bundle of twigs serving me
for a bed, and my saddle for a pillow.
I was awakened about two o'clock by
three Foulahs, who, taking me for a Moor,
pointed to the sun, and told me it was time
to pray. Without entering into conversation
with them, I saddled my horse and conti-
nued my journey. I travelled over a level,
but more fertile country, than I had seen
for some time, until sunset, when, coming
to a path that took a southerly direction, I
followed it until midnight, at which time
I arrived at a small pool of rain-water, and
the wood being open, I determined to rest
by it for the night. Having given my horse
the remainder of the corn, I made my bed
as formerly but the musketoes and flies
from the pool prevented sleep for some time,
and I was twice disturbed in the night by
wild beasts, which came very near, and
whose howlings kept the horse in continual
terror.
T
274
TRAVELS IN THE
July 4th. At daybreak I pursued my
course through the woods as formerly; saw
numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and os-
triches; but the soil was more hilly, and
not so fertile as I had found it the preceding
day. About eleven o'clock I ascended an
eminence, where I climbed a tree, and dis-
covered at about eight miles distance, an
open part of the country, with several red
spots, which I concluded were cultivated
land; and directing my course that way,
came to the precincts of a watering place,
about one o'clock. From the appearance of
the place, I judged it to belong to the Fou-
lahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a
better reception than I had experienced at
Shrilla. In this I was not deceived; for one
of the shepherds invited me to come into
his tent, and partake of some dates. This
was one of those low Foulah tents in which
there is room just sufficient to sit upright,
and in which the family, the furniture, &c.
seem huddled together like so many articles
in a chest. When I had crept upon my
hands and knees into this humble habita-
tion, I found that it contained a woman and
three children; who, together with the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
275
shepherd and myself, completely occupied
the floor. A dish of boiled corn and dates
was produced, and the master of the family,
as is customary in this part of the country,
first tasted it himself, and then desired me
to follow his example. Whilst I was eating,
the children kept their eyes fixed upon me;
and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce
the word Nazarani, than they began to cry,
and their mother crept slowly towards the
door, out of which she sprang like a grey-
hound, and was instantly followed by her
children. So frightened were they at the
very name of a Christian, that no entreaties
could induce them to approach the tent.
Here I purchased some corn for my horse
in exchange for some brass buttons; and
having thanked the shepherd for his hospi-
tality, struck again into the woods. At sun-
set, I came to a road that took the direction
for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for
the night; but about eight o'clock, hearing
some people coming from the southward, I
thought it prudent to hide myself among
some thick bushes near the road. As these
thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I
found my situation rather unpleasant; sitting
T2
276
TRAVELS IN THE
in the dark, holding my horse by the nose,
with both hands, to prevent him from neigh-
ing, and equally afraid of the natives without,
and the wild beasts within. My fears, how-
ever, were soon dissipated; for the people,
after looking round the thicket, and perceiv-
ing nothing, went away; and I hastened
to the more open parts of the wood, where
I pursued my journey E. S. E. until mid-
night; when the joyful cry of frogs induced
me once more to deviate a little from my
route, in order to quench my thirst. Having
accomplished this, from a large pool of rain
water, I sought for an open place, with a
single tree in the midst, under which I made.
my bed for the night. I was disturbed by
some wolves towards morning, which indu-
ced me to set forward a little before day;
and having passed a small village called
Wassalita, I came about ten o'clock (July
5th,) to a Negro town called Wawra, which
properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this
time tributary to Mansong, King of Bam-
barra.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
277
CHAPTER XV.
The Author proceeds to Wassiboo-is joined
by some fugitive Kaartans, who accompany
him in his Route through Bambarra.-Dis-
covers the Niger.-Some Account of Sego,
the Capital of Bambarra.-Mansong, the
King, refuses to see the Author, but sends
him a Present.-Great Hospitality of a
Negro Woman.
WAWRA is a small town surrounded with
high walls, and inhabited by a mixture of
Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants
employ themselves chiefly in cultivating
corn, which they exchange with the Moors
for salt. Here, being in security from the
Moors, and very much fatigued, I resolved
to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty
welcome from the Dooty, whose name was
Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bul-
lock's hide, and slept soundly for about two
hours. The curiosity of the people would
not allow me to sleep any longer. They had
278
TRAVELS IN THE
seen my saddle and bridle, and were as-
sembled in great number to learn who I
was, and whence I came. Some were of
opinion that I was an Arab; others insisted
that I was some Moorish Sultan; and they
continued to debate the matter with such
warmth, that the noise awoke me. The
Dooty (who had formerly been at Gambia)
at last interposed in my behalf, and assured
them that I was certainly a white man; but
he was convinced, from my appearance, that
I was a very poor one.
In the course of the day, several women,
hearing that I was going to Sego, came and
begged me to inquire of Mansong, the king,
what was become of their children. One
woman, in particular, told me that her son's
name was Mamadee; that he was no Hea-
then, but prayed to God morning and even-
ing, and had been taken from her about
three years ago, by Mansong's army; since
which she had never heard of him. She
said, she often dreamed about him; and
begged me, if I should see him, either in
Bambarra, or in my own country, to tell
him, that his mother and sister were still
alive. In the afternoon, the Dooty examined
3
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
279
*1
the contents of the leather bag, in which I
had packed up my clothes; but finding
nothing that was worth taking, he returned
it, and told me to depart in the morning.
**
July 6th. It rained very much in the
night, and at daylight I departed, in com-
pany with a Negro, who was going to a town
called Dingyee for corn; but we had not
proceeded above a mile, before the ass upon
which he rode kicked him off, and he re-
turned, leaving me to prosecute the journey
by myself.
I reached Dingyee about noon; but the
Dooty and most of the inhabitants had
gone
into the fields to cultivate corn. An old
Foulah, observing me wandering about the
town, desired me to come to his hut, where
I was well entertained; and the Dooty,
when he returned, sent me some victuals for
myself, and corn for my horse.
July 7th. In the morning, when I was
about to depart, my landlord, with a great
deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a
lock of my hair. He had been told, he said,
that white mens' hair made a saphie, that
would give to the possessor all the knowledge
of white men. I had never before heard of
289
TRAVELS IN THE
1
so simple a mode of education, but instantly
complied with the request; and my land-
lord's thirst for learning was such, that, with
cutting and pulling, he cropped one side of
my head pretty closely; and would have
done the same with the other, had I not
signified my disapprobation, by putting on
my hat, and assuring him, that I wished to
reserve some of this precious merchandize
for a future occasion.
I reached a small town called Wassiboo,
about twelve o'clock, where I was obliged
to stop until an opportunity should offer of
procuring a guide to Satilé, which is distant
a very long day's journey, through woods
without any beaten path. I accordingly
took up my residence at the Dooty's house,
where I staid four days; during which time
I amused myself by going to the fields with
the family to plant corn. Cultivation is
carried on here on a very extensive scale;
and, as the natives themselves express it,
hunger is never known." In cultivating
the soil, the men and women work together.
They use a large sharp hoe, much superior
to that used in Gambia; but they are
obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their
"C
INTERIOR OF AFRICA,
281
arms with them to the field. The master,
with the handle of his spear, marks the field
into regular plats, one of which is assigned
to every three slaves.
On the evening of the 11th, eight of the
fugitive Kaartans arrived at Wassiboo.-
They had found it impossible to live under
the tyrannical government of the Moors,
and were now going to transfer their alle-
giance to the King of Bambarra. They
offered to take me along with them as far
as Satilé; and I accepted the offer.
July 12th. At daybreak we set out, and
travelled with uncommon expedition until
sunset: we stopped only twice in the course
of the day; once at a watering-place in the
woods, and another time at the ruins of a
town, formerly belonging to Daisy, called
Illa-Compe (the corn town). When we ar-
rived in the neighbourhood of Satilé, the
people who were employed in the corn fields,
seeing so many horsemen, took us for a
party of Moors, and ran screaming away
from us. The whole town was instantly
alarmed, and the slaves were seen, in every
direction, driving the cattle and horses to-
wards the town. It was in vain that one of
282
TRAVELS IN THE
our company galloped up to undeceive
them: it only frightened them the more;
and when we arrived at the town, we found
the gates shut, and the people all under
arms. After a long parley, we were per-
mitted to enter; and, as there was every
appearance of a heavy tornado, the Dooty
allowed us to sleep in his baloon, and gave
us each a bullock's hide for a bed.
July 13th. Early in the morning we
again set forward. The roads were wet and
slippery, but the country was very beauti-
ful, abounding with rivulets, which were
increased by the rain into rapid streams.
About ten o'clock, we came to the ruins of
a village, which had been destroyed by war
about six months before and in order to
prevent any town from being built there in
future, the large Bentang tree, under which
the natives spent the day, had been burnt
down; the wells filled up; and every thing
that could make the spot desirable, com-
pletely destroyed.
About noon, my horse was so much fa-
tigued that I could not keep up with my
companions; I therefore dismounted, and
desired them to ride on, telling them, that
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
283
I would follow as soon as my horse had
rested a little. But I found them unwilling
to leave me: the lions, they said, were very
numerous in those parts, and though they
might not so readily attack a body of people,
they would soon find out an individual: it
was therefore agreed, that one of the com-
pany should stay with me, to assist in driv-
ing my horse, while the others passed on to
Galloo, to procure lodgings, and collect
grass for the horses before night. Accom-
panied by this worthy Negro, I drove my
horse before me until about four o'clock,
when we came in sight of Galloo; a consi-
derable town, standing in a fertile and beau-
tiful valley, surrounded with high rocks.
As my companions had thoughts of set-
tling in this neighbourhood, they had a fine
sheep given them by the Dooty; and I was
fortunate enough to procure plenty of corn
for my horse. Here they blow upon ele-
phants' teeth when they announce evening
prayers, in the same manner as at Kemmoo.
Early next morning, (July 14th,) having
first returned many thanks to our landlord
for his hospitality, while my fellow-travel-
lers offered up their prayers that he might
284
TRAVELS IN THE
never want, we set forward; and about three
o'clock arrived at Moorja; a large town, fa-
mous for its trade in salt, which the Moors
bring here in great quantities, to exchange
for corn and cotton-cloth. As most of the
people here are Mahomedans, it is not al-
lowed to the Kafirs to drink beer, which
they call Neo-dollo (corn spirit,) except in
certain houses. In one of these I saw about
twenty people sitting round large vessels of
this beer, with the greatest conviviality;
many of them in a state of intoxication.
As corn is plentiful, the inhabitants are very
liberal to strangers: I believe we had as
much corn and milk sent us by different
people, as would have been sufficient for
three times our number; and though we
remained here two days, we experienced no
diminution of their hospitality.
On the morning of the 16th, we again
set forward, accompanied by a coffle of
fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for
Sansanding. The road was particularly ro-
mantic, between two rocky hills; but the
Moors sometimes lie in wait here to plun-
der strangers. As soon as we had reached
the open country, the master of the salt
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
285
coffle thanked us for having staid with him
so long, and now desired us to ride on. The
sun was almost set before we reached Dat-
liboo. In the evening we had a most tre-
mendous tornado. The house in which we
lodged, being flat roofed, admitted the rain
in streams; the floor was soon ankle deep,
the fire extinguished, and we were left to
pass the night upon some bundles of fire
wood, that happened to lie in a corner.
July 17th. We departed from Datliboo;
and about ten o'clock passed a large coffle
returning from Sego, with corn hoes, mats,
and other household utensils. At five o'clock
we came to a large village, where we in-
tended to pass the night; but the Dooty
would not receive us. When we departed
from this place, my horse was so much fa-
tigued that I was under the necessity of
driving him, and it was dark before we
reached Faninboo, a small village; the
Dooty of which no sooner heard that I was
a white man, than he brought out three old
muskets, and was much disappointed when
he was told that I could not repair them.
July 18th. We continued our journey ;
but, owing to a light supper the preceding
286
{
TRAVELS IN THE
F
night, we felt ourselves rather hungry this
morning, and endeavoured to procure some
corn at a village; but without success. The
towns were now more numerous, and the
land that is not employed in cultivation
affords excellent pasturage for large herds
of cattle; but, owing to the great concourse
of people daily going to and returning from
Sego, the inhabitants are less hospitable to
strangers.
My horse becoming weaker and weaker
every day, was now of very little service to
me: I was obliged to drive him before me
for the greater part of the day; and did not
reach Geosorro until eight o'clock in the
evening. I found my companions wrang-
ling with the Dooty, who had absolutely
refused to give or sell them any provisions ;
and as none of us had tasted victuals for the
last twenty-four hours, we were by no means
disposed to fast another day, if we could
help it. But finding our entreaties without
effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell
asleep, from which I was awakened, about
midnight,with the joyful information“ kinne-
nata” (the victuals is come.) This made the
remainder of the night pass away pleasantly;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
287
and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our
journey, proposing to stop at a village called
Doolinkeaboo, for the night following. My
fellow-travellers, having better horses than
myself, soon left me; and I was walking
barefoot, driving my horse, when I was met
by a coffie of slaves, about seventy in num-
ber, coming from Sego. They were tied
together by their necks with thongs of a
bullock's hide, twisted like a rope; seven
slaves upon a thong; and a man with a
musket between every seven. Many of the
slaves were ill conditioned, and a great
number of them women. In the rear came
Sidi Mahomed's servant, whom I remem-
bered to have seen at the camp of Benowm:
he presently knew me, and told me that
these slaves were going to Morocco, by the
way of Ludamar, and the Great Desert.
In the afternoon, as I approached Doo-
linkeaboo, I met about twenty Moors on
horseback, the owners of the slaves I had
seen in the morning; they were well armed
with muskets, and were very inquisitive
concerning me, but not so rude as their
countrymen generally are. From them I
learned that Sidi Mahomed was not at
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288
Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-
dust.
When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo, I was
informed that my fellow-travellers had gone
on; but my horse was so much fatigued that
I could not possibly proceed after them.
The Dooty of the town, at my request, gave
me a draught of water, which is generally
looked upon as an earnest of greater hospi-
tality; and I had no doubt of making up
for the toils of the day, by a good supper
and a sound sleep: unfortunately, I had
neither one nor the other. The night was
rainy and tempestuous, and the Dooty li-
mited his hospitality to the draught of
water.
July 20th. In the morning, I endea-
voured, both by entreaties and threats, to
procure some victuals from the Dooty, but
in vain. I even begged some corn from one
of his female slaves, as she was washing it
at the well, and had the mortification to be
refused. However, when the Dooty was
gone to the fields, his wife sent me a hand-
ful of meal, which I mixed with water, and
drank for breakfast. About eight o'clock,
I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
289
stopped a few minutes at a large Korree;
where I had some milk given me by the
Foulahs. And hearing that two Negroes
were going from thence to Sego, I was
happy to have their company, and we set
out immediately. About four o'clock, we
stopped at a small village, where one of the
Negroes met with an acquaintance, who
invited us to a sort of public entertainment,
which was conducted with more than com-
mon propriety. A dish, made of sour milk
and meal, called Sinkatoo, and beer made
from their corn, was distributed with great
liberality; and the women were admitted
into the society; a circumstance I had never
before observed in Africa. There was no
compulsion; every one was at liberty to
drink as he pleased: they nodded to each
other when about to drink, and on setting
down the calabash, commonly said berka,
(thank you). Both men and women ap-
peared to be somewhat intoxicated, but
they were far from being quarrelsome.
Departing from thence, we passed seve-
ral large villages, where I was constantly
taken for a Moor, and became the subject
of much merriment to the Bambarrans ;
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who, seeing me drive my horse before me,
laughed heartily at my appearance.-He
has been at Mecca, says one; you may see
that by his clothes: another asked me if my
horse was sick; a third wished to purchase
it, &c.; so that I believe the very slaves
were ashamed to be scen in my company.
Just before it was dark, we took up our
lodging for the night at a small village,
where I procured some victuals for myself,
and some corn for my horse, at the mode-
rate price of a button; and was told that I
should see the Niger (which the Negroes
call Joliba, or the great water), early the
next day. The lions are here very nume-
rous: the gates are shut a little after sunset,
and nobody allowed to go out. The thoughts
of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the
troublesome buzzing of musketoes, prevent-
ed me from shutting my eyes during the
night; and I had saddled my horse, and was
in readiness before daylight; but, on account
of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait
until the people were stirring, and the gates
opened. This happened to be a market-day
at Sego, and the roads were every where
filled with people carrying different articles
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
291
to sell. We passed four large villages, and
at eight o'clock saw the smoke over Sego.
As we approached the town, I was fortu-
nate enough to overtake the fugitive Kaar-
tans, to whose kindness I had been so much
indebted in my journey through Bambarra.
They readily agreed to introduce me to the
king; and we rode together through some
marshy ground, where, as I was anxiously
looking around for the river, one of them
called out, geo affilli, (see the water); and
looking forwards, I saw with infinite plea-
sure the great object of my mission; the
long sought for, majestic Niger, glittering
to the morning sun, as broad as the Thames
at Westminster, and flowing slowly to the
eastward. I hastened to the brink, and,
having drank of the water, lifted up my
fervent thanks in prayer, to the Great Ruler
of all things, for having thus far crowned
my endeavours with success.
The circumstance of the Niger's flowing
towards the east, and its collateral points,
did not, however, excite my surprise; for
although I had left Europe in great hesita-
tion on this subject, and rather believed that
it ran in the contrary direction, I had made
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such frequent inquiries during my progress,
concerning this river; and received from
Negroes of different nations, such clear and
decisive assurances that its general course
was towards the rising sun, as scarce left any
doubt on my mind; and more especially as
I knew that Major Houghton, had collected
similar information, in the same manner.
Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I
had now arrived, consists, properly speaking,
of four distinct towns; two on the north-
ern bank of the Niger, called Sego Korro,
and Sego Boo; and two on the southern
bank, called Sego Soo Korro, and Sego See
Korro. They are all surrounded with high
mud walls; the houses are built of clay, of
a square form, with flat roofs; some of
them have two stories, and many of them
are whitewashed. Besides these buildings,
Moorish mosques are seen in every quarter;
and the streets, though narrow, are broad
enough for every useful purpose, in a coun-
try where wheel carriages are entirely un-
known. From the best inquiries I could
make, I have reason to believe that Sego con-
tains altogether about thirty thousand inha-
bitants. The King of Bambarra constantly
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
293
resides at Sego See Korro; he employs
a great many slaves in conveying people
over the river, and the money they receive
(though the fare is only ten Kowrie shells
for each individual) furnishes a consider-
able revenue to the king, in the course of a
year. The canoes are of a singular con-
struction, each of them being formed of the
trunks of two large trees, rendered concave,
and joined together, not side by side, but
end ways; the junction being exactly across
the middle of the canoe: they are therefore
very long and disproportionably narrow,
and have neither decks nor masts; they are,
however, very roomy; for I observed in
one of them four horses, and several people,
crossing over the river. When we arrived
at this ferry, with a view to pass over to that
part of the town in which the king resides,
we found a great number waiting for a
passage; they looked at me with silent
wonder, and I distinguished, with concern,
many Moors among them. There were
three different places of embarkation, and
the ferrymen were very diligent and expe-
ditious; but, from the crowd of people, I
could not immediately obtain a passage;
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་
and sat down upon the bank of the river,
to wait for a more favourable opportunity.
The view of this extensive city; the nume-
rous canoes upon the river; the crowded
population, and the cultivated state of the
surrounding country, formed altogether a
prospect of civilization and magnificence,
which I little expected to find in the bosom
of Africa.
I waited more than two hours without
having an opportunity of crossing the river;
during which time the people who had
crossed, carried information to Mansong
the King, that a white man was waiting
for a passage, and was coming to see him.
He immediately sent over one of his chief
men, who informed me that the king could
not possibly see me, until he knew what
had brought me into his country; and that
I must not presume to cross the river with-
out the king's permission. He therefore
advised me to lodge at a distant village, to
which he pointed, for the night; and said
that in the morning he would give me fur-
ther instructions how to conduct myself.
This was very discouraging. However, as
there was no remedy, I set off for the village;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
295
where I found, to my great mortification,
that no person would admit me into his
house. I was regarded with astonishment
and fear, and was obliged to sit all day with-
out victuals, in the shade of a tree; and the
night threatened to be very uncomfortable,
for the wind rose, and there was great ap-
pearance of a heavy rain; and the wild
beasts are so very numerous in the neigh-
bourhood, that I should have been under
the necessity of climbing up the tree, and
resting among the branches. About sunset,
however, as I was preparing to pass the
night in this manner, and had turned my
horse loose, that he might graze at liberty,
a woman, returning from the labours of the
field, stopped to observe me, and perceiving
that I was weary and dejected, inquired
into my situation, which I briefly explained
to her; whereupon, with looks of great com-
passion, she took up my saddle and bridle,
and told me to follow her. Having con-
ducted me into her hut, she lighted up a
lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and told
me I might remain there for the night.
Finding that I was very hungry, she said
she would procure me something to eat.
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She accordingly went out, and returned in
a short time with a very fine fish; which,
having caused to be half broiled upon some
embers, she gave me for supper. The rites
of hospitality being thus performed towards
a stranger in distress, my worthy benefac-
tress (pointing to the mat, and telling me I
might sleep there without apprehension)
called to the female part of her family, who
had stood gazing on me all the while in
fixed astonishment, to resume their task of
spinning cotton; in which they continued
to employ themselves great part of the
night. They lightened their labour by
songs, one of which was composed extem-
pore; for I was myself the subject of it. It
was sung by one of the young women, the
rest joining in a sort of chorus. The air
was sweet and plaintive, and the words, lite-
rally translated, were these." The winds
"roared, and the rains fell.-The poor
"white man, faint and weary, came and
"sat under our tree. He has no mother
"to bring him milk; no wife to grind his
"corn. Chorus. Let us pity the white man;
"no mother has he, &c. &c."—Trifling as
this recital may appear to the reader, to a
}
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
297
person in my situation, the circumstance
was affecting in the highest degree. I was
oppressed by such unexpected kindness;
and sleep fled from my eyes. In the morn-
ing I presented my compassionate landlady
with two of the four brass buttons which
remained on my waistcoat; the only recom-
pence I could make her.
July 21st. I continued in the village all
this day, in conversation with the natives,
who came in crowds to see me; but was
rather uneasy towards evening, to find that
no message had arrived from the king; the
more so, as the people began to whisper,
that Mansong had received some very un-
favourable accounts of me, from the Moors
and Slatees residing at Sego; who it seems
were exceedingly suspicious concerning the
motives of my journey. I learnt that many
consultations had been held with the king,
concerning my reception and disposal; and
some of the villagers frankly told me, that
I had many enemies, and must expect no
favour.
July 22d. About eleven o'clock, a mes-
senger arrived from the king; but he gave
me very little satisfaction. He inquired
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particularly if I had brought any present;
and seemed much disappointed when he
was told that I had been robbed of every
thing by the Moors. When I proposed to
go along with him, he told me to stop until
the afternoon, when the king would send
for me.
July 23. In the afternoon, another mes-
senger arrived from Mansong, with a bag
in his hands. He told me, it was the king's
pleasure that I should depart forthwith from
the vicinage of Sego; but that Mansong,
wishing to relieve a white man in distress,
had sent me five thousand Kowries,* to
enable me to purchase provisions in the
course of my journey: the messenger added,
that if my intentions were really to proceed
to Jenné, he had orders to accompany me
as a guide to Sansanding. I was, at first,
puzzled to account for this behaviour of the
* Mention has already been made of these little shells.
(p. 39) which pass current as money, in many parts of
the East-Indies, as well as Africa. In Bambarra, and
the adjacent countries, where the necessaries of life are
very cheap, one hundred of them would commonly pur-
chase a day's provisions for myself, and corn for my
horse. I reckoned about two hundred and fifty Kowries,
equal to one shilling.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
299
king; but from the conversation I had with
the guide, I had afterward reason to believe
that Mansong would willingly have admit-
ted me into his presence at Sego; but was
apprehensive he might not be able to pro-
tect me, against the blind and inveterate
malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His
conduct, therefore, was at once prudent and
liberal. The circumstances under which I
made my appearance at Sego, were un-
doubtedly such as might create in the mind
of the king, a well warranted suspicion that
I wished to conceal the true object of my
journey. He argued, probably, as my guide
argued; who, when he was told, that I had
come from a great distance, and through
many dangers, to behold the Joliba river,
naturally inquired, if there were no rivers
in
my own country, and whether one river
was not like another. Notwithstanding this,
and in spite of the jealous machinations of
the Moors, this benevolent prince thought
it sufficient, that a white man was found in
his dominions, in a condition of extreme
wretchedness; and that no other plea was
necessary to entitle the sufferer to his
bounty.
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4
CHAPTER XVI.
Departure from Sego, and Arrival at Kabba.
-Descripton of the Shea, or vegetable
Butter Tree.-The Author and his Guide
arrive at Sansanding-Behaviour of the
Moors at that Place.-The Author pursues
his Journey to the Eastward.-Incidents
on the Road.-Arrives at Modiboo, and
proceeds for Kea; but obliged to leave his
Horse by the way.-Embarks at Kea in a
Fisherman's Canoe for Moorzan; is con-
veyed from thence across the Niger to Silla.
-Determines to proceeds no further East-
ward. Some Account of the further Course
of the Niger, and the Towns in its Vici-
nage, towards the East.
BEING, in the manner that has been rela-
ted, compelled to leave Sego, I was conducted
the same evening to a village about seven
miles to the eastward, with some of the in-
habitants of which my guide was acquainted,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
301
and by whom we were well received.* He
was very friendly and communicative, and
spoke highly of the hospitality of his coun-
trymen; but withal told me, that if Jenné
was the place of my destination, which he
seemed to have hitherto doubted, I had un-
dertaken an enterprize of greater danger
than probably I was apprized of; for, al-
though the town of Jenné was, nominally,
a part of the King of Bambarra's dominions,
it was in fact, he said, a city of the Moors;
the leading part of the inhabitants being
Bushreens, and even the governor himself,
though appointed by Mansong, of the same
sect. Thus was I in danger of falling a
second time into the hands of men who
would consider it not only justifiable, but
meritorious, to destroy me; and this reflec-
tion was aggravated by the circumstance
that the danger increased, as I advanced in
my journey; for I learned that the places
beyond Jenné were under the Moorish in-
fluence, in a still greater degree than Jenné
* I should have before observed, that I found the
language of Bambarra, a sort of corrupted Mandingo.
After a little practice, I understood, and spoke it with-
out difficulty.
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itself; and Tombuctoo, the great object of
my search, altogether in possession of that
savage and merciless people, who allow no
Christian to live there. But I had now ad-
vanced too far to think of returning to the
westward, on such vague and uncertain in-
formation, and determined to proceed ; and
being accompanied by the guide, I departed
from the village on the morning of the 24th.
About eight o'clock, we passed a large town
called Kabba, situated in the midst of a
beautiful and highly cultivated country;
bearing a greater resemblance to the centre
of England, than to what I should have
supposed had been the middle of Africa.
The people were every where employed in
collecting the fruit of the Shea trees, from
which they prepare the vegetable butter,
mentioned in former parts of this work.-
These trees grow in great abundance all
over this part of Bambarra. They are not
planted by the natives, but are found grow-
ing naturally in the woods; and, in clearing
wood land for cultivation, every tree is cut
down but the Shea. The tree itself, very
much resembles the American oak; and the
fruit, from the kernel of which, being first
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
303
dried in the sun, the butter is prepared, by
boiling the kernel in water, has somewhat
the appearance of a Spanish olive. The
kernel is enveloped in a sweet pulp, under
a thin green rind; and the butter produced
from it, besides the advantage of its keeping
the whole year without salt, is whiter,
firmer, and, to my palate, of a richer flavour
than the best butter I ever tasted made from
cows' milk. The growth and preparation
of this commodity, seem to be among the
first objects of African industry in this and
the neighbouring states; and it constitutes
a main article of their inland commerce.
We passed, in the course of the day, a
great many villages, inhabited chiefly by
fishermen ; and in the evening about five
o'clock arrived at Sansanding; a very large
town, containing, as I was told, from eight
to ten thousand inhabitants. This place is
much resorted to by the Moors, who bring
salt from Beeroo, and beads and coral from
the Mediterranean, to exchange here for
gold-dust, and cotton-cloth. This cloth
they sell to great advantage in Beeroo, and
other Moorish countries, where, on account
of the want of rain, no cotton is cultivated.
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J
I desired my guide to conduct me to the
house in which we were to lodge, by the
most private way possible. We accordingly
rode along between the town and the river,
passing by a creek or harbour, in which I
observed twenty large canoes, most of them
fully loaded, and covered with mats, to pre-
vent the rain from injuring the goods. As
we proceeded, three other canoes arrived,
two with passengers, and one with goods.
I was happy to find, that all the Negro in-
habitants took me for a Moor; under which
character I should probably have passed
unmolested, had not a Moor, who was sitting
by the river side, discovered the mistake,
and setting up a loud exclamation, brought
together a number of his countrymen.
When I arrived at the house of Counti
Mamadi, the Dooty of the town, I was sur-
rounded with hundreds of people, speaking
a variety of different dialects, all equally
unintelligible to me. At length, by the
assistance of my guide, who acted as inter-
preter, I understood that one of the spec-
tators pretended to have seen me at one
place, and another at some other place;
and a Moorish woman, absolutely swore
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
305
that she had kept my house three years at
Gallam, on the river Senegal. It was plain
that they mistook me for some other person;
and I desired two of the most confident, to
point towards the place where they had seen
me. They pointed due south; hence I
think it probable that they came from Cape
Coast, where they might have seen many
white men. Their language was different
from any I had yet heard. The Moors now
assembled in great number; with their
usual arrogance, compelling the Negroes
to stand at a distance. They immediately
began to question me concerning my reli-
gion; but finding that I was not master of
the Arabic, they sent for two men, whom.
they call Ilbuidi (Jews,) in hopes that they
might be able to converse with me. These
Jews, in dress and appearance, very much
resemble the Arabs; but though they so far
conform to the religion of Mahomet, as to
recite, in public, prayers from the Koran,
they are but little respected by the Negroes:
and even the Moors themselves allowed,
that though I was a Christian, I was a better
man than a Jew. They, however, insisted
that, like the Jews, I must conform so far
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as to repeat the Mahomedan prayers; and
when I attempted to wave the subject, by
telling them that I could not speak Arabic,
one of them, a Shereef from Tuat, in the
Great Desert, started up and swore by the
Prophet, that if I refused to go to the mosque,
he would be one that would assist in carry-
ing me thither. And there is no doubt but
this threat would have been immediately
executed, had not my landlord interposed
in my
behalf. He told them, that I was the
king's stranger, and he could not see me ill
treated, whilst I was under his protection.
He therefore advised them to let me alone
for the night; assuring them, that, in the
morning, I should be sent about my busi-
ness. This somewhat appeased their cla-
mour; but they compelled me to ascend a
high seat, by the door of the mosque, in
order that every body might see me; for
the people had assembled in such numbers
as to be quite ungovernable; climbing upon
the houses, and squeezing each other, like
the spectators at an execution. Upon this
seat I remained until sunset, when I was
conducted into a neat little hut, with a
small court before it; the door of which
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
307
Counti Mamadi shut, to prevent any person
from disturbing me. But this precaution
could not exclude the Moors. They climbed
over the top of the mud-wall, and came in
crowds into the court, in order, they said,
to see me perform my evening devotions, and
eat eggs. The former of these ceremonies,
I did not think proper to comply with ; but
I told them I had no objection to eat eggs,
provided they would bring me eggs to eat.
My landlord immediately brought me seven
hen's eggs, and was much surprised to find
that I could not eat them raw; for it seems
to be a prevalent opinion among the inha-
bitants of the interior, that Europeans sub-
sist almost entirely on this diet. When I
had succeeded, in persuading my landlord
that this opinion was without foundation,
and that I would gladly partake of any
victuals which he might think proper to
send me; he ordered a sheep to be killed,
and part of it to be dressed for my supper.
About midnight, when the Moors had left
me, he paid me a visit, and with much ear-
nestness, desired me to write him a saphie.
"If a Moor's saphie is good, (said this hos-
pitable old man), a white man's must needs
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be better." I readily furnished him with
one, possessed of all the virtues I could
concentrate; for it contained the Lord's
prayer. The pen with which it was written
was made of a reed; a little charcoal and
gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a
thin board answered the purpose of paper.
July 25th. Early in the morning, before
the Moors were assembled, I departed from
Sansanding, and slept the ensuing night at
a small town called Sibili; from whence,
on the day following, I reached Nyara, a
large town at some distance from the river,
where I halted the 27th, to have my clothes
washed, and recruit my horse. The Dooty
there has a very commodious house, flat
roofed, and two stories high. He shewed
me some gunpowder of his own manufac-
turing and pointed out as a great curiosity,
a little brown monkey, that was tied to a
stake by the door, telling me that it came
from a far distant country, called Kong.
July 28th. I departed from Nyara, and
reached Nyamee about noon. This town is
inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, from the king-
dom of Masina. The Dooty (I know not
why), would not receive me, but civilly
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
309
sent his son on horseback, to conduct me to
Modiboo; which he assured me was at no
great distance.
We rode nearly in a direct line through
the woods; but in general went forwards
with great circumspection. I observed that
my guide frequently stopped, and looked
under the bushes. On inquiring the rea-
son of this caution, he told me that lions
were very numerous in that part of the
country, and frequently attacked people tra-
velling through the woods. While he was
speaking, my horse started, and looking
round, I observed a large animal of the
camelopard kind, standing at a little dis-
tance. The neck and fore legs were very
long; the head was furnished with two
short black horns, turning backwards; the
tail, which reached down to the ham joint,
had a tuft of hair at the end. The animal
was of a mouse colour; and it trotted away
from us in a very sluggish manner: moving
its head from side to side, to see if we were
pursuing it. Shortly after this, as we were
crossing a large open plain, where there
were a few scattered bushes, my guide, who
was a little way before me, wheeled his
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horse round in a moment, calling out some-
thing in the Foulah language, which I did
not understand. I inquired in Mandingo
what he meant ; Wara billi billi, a very large
lion, said he; and made signs for me to
ride away.
But my
horse was too much
fatigued so we rode slowly past the bush,
from which the animal had given us the
alarm. Not seeing any thing myself, how-
ever, I thought my guide had been mistaken,
when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to
his mouth, exclaiming, Soabah an allahi,
(God preserve us!) and to my great sur-
prise, I then perceived a large red lion, at
a short distance from the bush, with his head
couched between his fore paws. I expected
he would instantly spring upon me, and
instinctively pulled my feet from my stir-
rups, to throw myself on the ground, that
my horse might become the victim, rather
than myself. But it is probable the lion
was not hungry; for he quietly suffered us
to pass, though we were fairly within his
reach. My eyes were so riveted upon this
sovereign of the beasts, that I found it im-
possible to remove them, until we were at
a considerable distance. We now took a
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
311
circuitous route, through some swampy
ground, to avoid any more of these disa-
greeable rencounters. At sunset we arrived
at Modiboo; a delightful village on the
banks of the Niger, commanding a view of
the river for many miles, both to the east
and west. The small green islands (the
peaceful retreat of some industrious Fou-
lahs, whose cattle are here secure from the
depredations of wild beasts), and the ma-
jestic breadth of the river, which is here
much larger than at Sego, render the situ-
ation one of the most enchanting in the
world. Here are caught great plenty of
fish, by means of long cotton nets, which
the natives make themselves; and use
nearly in the same manner as nets are used
in Europe. I observed the head of a cro-
codile lying upon one of the houses, which
they told me had been killed by the shep-
herds, in a swamp near the town. These
animals are not uncommon in the Niger;
but I believe they are not oftentimes found
dangerous. They are of little account to
the traveller, when compared with the
amazing swarms of musketoes, which rise
from the swamps and creeks, in such num-
312
TRAVELS IN THE
P
1
bers as to harass even the most torpid of
the natives; and as my clothes were now
almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared
to resist their attacks. I usually passed the
night, without shutting my eyes, walking
backwards and forwards, fanning myself
with my hat; their stings raised numerous
blisters on my legs and arms; which, to-
gether with the want of rest, made me very
feverish and uneasy.
July 29th. Early in the morning, my
landlord observing that I was sickly, hurried
me away; sending a servant with me as a
guide to Kea. But though I was little able
to walk, my horse was still less able to carry
me; and about six miles to the east of
Modiboo, in crossing some rough clayey
ground, he fell; and the united strength
of the guide and myself, could not place him
again upon his legs. I sat down for some
time, beside this worn-out associate of my
adventures; but finding him still unable to
rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and
placed a quantity of grass before him. I
surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting
on the ground, with sympathetic emotion;
for I could not suppress the sad apprehen-
:
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
313
sion, that I should myself, in a short time,
lie down and perish in the same manner of
fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding,
I left my poor horse; and with great reluc-
tance followed my guide on foot, along the
bank of the river, until about noon; when
we reached Kea, which I found to be no-
thing more than a small fishing village. The
Dooty, a surly old man, who was sitting by
the gate, received me very coolly; and when
I informed him of my situation, and begged
his protection, told me, with great indiffe-
rence, that he paid very little attention to
fine speeches, and that I should not enter
his house. My guide remonstrated in my
favour, but to no purpose; for the Dooty
remained inflexible in his determination.
I knew not where to rest my wearied limbs,
but was happily relieved by a fishing canoe
belonging to Silla, which was at that mo-
ment coming down the river. The Dooty
waved to the fisherman to come near, and
desired him to take charge of me as far as
Moorzan. The fisherman, after some hesi-
tation, consented to carry me; and I em-
barked in the canoe, in company with the
fisherman, his wife, and a boy. The Negro,
314
TRAVELS IN THE
who had conducted me from Madiboo, now
left me; I requested him to look to my horse
on his return, and take care of him if he
was still alive, which he promised to do.
Departing from Kea, we proceeded about
a mile down the river, when the fisherman
paddled the canoe to the bank, and desired
me to jump out. Having tied the canoe to
a stake, he stripped off his clothes, and dived
for such a length of time, that I thought
he had actually drowned himself, and was
surprised to see his wife behave with so
much indifference upon the occasion; but
my fears were over when he raised up his
head astern of the canoe, and called for a
rope. With this
With this rope he dived a second
time; and then got into the canoe, and or-
dered the boy to assist him in pulling. At
length, they brought up a large basket,
about ten feet in diameter, containing two
fine fish, which the fisherman (after re-
turning the basket into the water), imme-
diately carried ashore, and hid in the grass.
We then went a little farther down, and
took up another basket, in which was one
fish. The fisherman now left us, to carry his
prizes to some neighbouring market; and
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
315
the woman and boy proceeded with me in
the canoe, down the river.
About four o'clock we arrived at Moor-
zan, a fishing town on the northern bank;
from whence I was conveyed across the
river to Silla, a large town; where I remain-
ed until it was quite dark, under a tree,
surrounded by hundreds of people. But
their language was very different from the
other parts of Bambarra; and I was inform-
ed that in my progress eastward, the Bam-
barra tongue was but little understood, and
that when I reached Jenné, I should find
that the majority of the inhabitants spoke
a different language, called Jenné Kummo
by the Negroes; and Kalam Soudan, by the
Moors.
With a great deal of entreaty, the Dooty
allowed me to come into his baloon, to avoid
the rain; but the place was very damp, and
I had a smart paroxysm of fever, during the
night. Worn down by sickness, exhausted
with hunger and fatigue; half naked, and
without any article of value, by which I
might procure provisions, clothes, or lodg-
ing; I began to reflect seriously on my
situation. I was now convinced, by painful
1
316
TRAVELS IN THE
experience, that the obstacles to my fur-
ther progress were insurmountable. The
tropical rains were already set in, with all
their violence; the rice grounds and swamps,
were every where overflowed; and, in a few
days more, travelling of every kind, unless
by water, would be completely obstructed.
The Kowries which remained of the King
of Bambarra's present, were not sufficient
to enable me to hire a canoe for any great
distance; and I had but little hopes of sub-
sisting by charity, in a country where the
Moors have such influence. But above all,
I perceived that I was advancing, more and
more, within the power of those merciless
fanatics; and from my reception both at
Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive
that, in attempting to reach even Jenné
(unless under the protection of some man
of consequence amongst them, which I had
no means of obtaining), I should sacrifice
my life to no purpose; for my discoveries
would perish with me. The prospect either
way was gloomy. In returning to the Gam-
bia, a journey on foot of many hundred
miles, presented itself to my contemplation,
through regions and countries unknown.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
317
Nevertheless, this seemed to be the only
alternative; for I saw inevitable destruction
in attempting to proceed to the eastward.
With this conviction on my mind, I hope
my readers will acknowledge, that I did
right in going no farther. I had made every
effort to execute my mission in its fullest
extent, which prudence could justify. Had
there been the most distant prospect of a
successful termination, neither the unavoid-
able hardships of the journey, nor the dan-
gers of a second captivity, should have
forced me to desist. This, however, neces-
sity compelled me to do; and whatever may
be the opinion of my general readers on
this point, it affords me inexpressible satis-
faction, that my honourable employers have
been pleased, since my return, to express
their full approbation of
my conduct.
Having thus brought my mind, after
much doubt and perplexity, to a determi-
nation to return westward; I thought it
incumbent on me, before I left Silla, to col-
lect from the Moorish and Negro traders,
all the information I could, concerning the
further course of the Niger eastward; and
the situation and extent of the kingdoms in
1
318
TRAVELS IN THE
its vicinage; and the following few notices
I received from such various quarters, as
induce me to think they are authentic.
Two short days' journey to the eastward
of Silla, is the town of Jenné, which is situ-
ated on a small island in the river; and is
said to contain a greater number of inhabi-
tants than Sego itself, or any other town in
Bambarra. At the distance of two days
more, the river spreads into a considerable
lake, called Dibbie (or the dark lake), con-
cerning the extent of which, all the infor-
mation I could obtain was, that in crossing
it, from west to east, the canoes lose sight
of land one whole day. From this lake,
the water issues in many different streams,
which terminate in two large branches, one
whereof flows towards the north-east, and
the other to the east; but these branches
join at Kabra, which is one day's journey
to the southward of Tombuctoo, and is the
port or shipping-place of that city. The
tract of land which the two streams encircle,
is called Jinbala, and is inhabited by Ne-
groes; and the whole distance, by land,
from Jenné to Tombuctoo, is twelve days'
journey.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
319
From Kabra, at the distance of eleven
days' journey, down the stream, the river
passes to the southward of Houssa, which
is two days' journey distant from the river.
Of the further progress of this great river,
and its final exit, all the natives with whom
I conversed, seem to be entirely ignorant.
Their commercial pursuits seldom induce
them to travel further than the cities of
Tombuctoo and Houssa; and as the sole
object of those journies is the acquirement
of wealth, they pay but little attention to
the course of rivers, or the geography of
countries. It is, however, highly probable
that the Niger affords a safe and easy com-
munication between very remote nations.
All my informants agreed, that many of the
Negro merchants who arrive at Tombuctoo
and Houssa, from the eastward, speak a dif-
ferent language from that of Bambarra, or
any other kingdom with which they are
acquainted. But even these merchants, it
would seem, are ignorant of the termination
of the river, for such of them as can speak
Arabic, describe the amazing length of its
course in very general terms; saying only
that they believe it runs to the world's end.
320
TRAVELS IN THE
The names of many kingdoms to the
eastward of Houssa, are familiar to the inha-
bitants of Bambarra. I was shewn quivers
and arrows of very curious workmanship,
which I was informed came from the king-
dom of Kassina.
On the northern bank of the Niger, at a
short distance from Silla, is the kingdom
of Masina, which is inhabited by Foulahs.
They employ themselves there, as in other
places, chiefly in pasturage, and pay an
annual tribute to the King of Bambarra,
for the lands which they occupy.
To the north-east of Masina, is situated
the kingdom of Tombuctoo, the great ob-
ject of European research; the capital of
this kingdom being one of the principal
marts for that extensive commerce which
the Moors carry on with the Negroes. The
hopes of acquiring wealth in this pursuit,
and zeal for propagating their religion, have
filled this extensive city with Moors and
Mahomedan converts; the king himself,
and all the chief officers of state are Moors;
and they are said to be more severe and in-
tolerant in their principles than any other
of the Moorish tribes in this part of Africa.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
321
I was informed by a venerable old Negro,
that when he first visited Tombuctoo, he
took up his lodging at a sort of public inn,
the landlord of which, when he conducted
him into his hut, spread a mat on the floor,
and laid a rope upon it; saying " if you are
"a Mussulman you are my friend, sit down;
"but if you are a Kafir, you are my slave;
"and with this rope I will lead you to mar-
"ket." The present King of Tombuctoo
is named Abu Abrahima; he is reported to
possess immense riches. His wives and
concubines are said to be clothed in silk,
and the chief officers of state live in consi-·
derable splendour. The whole expence of
his government is defrayed, as I was told,
by a tax upon merchandize, which is col-
lected at the gates of the city.
The city of Houssa, (the capital of a large
kingdom of the same name, situated to the
eastward of Tombuctoo,) is another great
mart for Moorish commerce. I conversed
with many merchants who had visited that
city; and they all agreed that it is larger,
and more populous, than Tombuctoo. The
trade, police, and government, are near-
ly the same in both; but in Houssa, the
:
Y
!
322
TRAVELS IN THE
Negroes are in greater proportion to the
Moors, and have some share in the go-
vernment.
Concerning the small kingdom of Jinbala,
I was not able to collect much information.
The soil is said to be remarkably fertile,
and the whole country so full of creeks and
swamps, that the Moors have hitherto been
baffled in every attempt to subdue it. The
inhabitants are Negroes, and some of them
are said to live in considerable affluence,
particularly those near the capital; which
is a resting-place for such merchants as
transport goods from Tombuctoo to the
western parts of Africa.
To the southward of Jinbala, is situated
the Negro kingdom of Gotto, which is said
to be of great extent. It was formerly di-
vided into a number of petty states, which
were governed by their own chiefs; but
their private quarrels invited invasion from
the neighbouring kingdoms. At length a
politic chief, of the name of Moossee, had
address enough to make them unite in hosti-
lities against Bambarra; and on this occa-
sion he was unanimously chosen general;
the different chiefs consenting for a time to
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
328
act under his command. Moossee imme-
diately dispatched a fleet of canoes, loaded
with provisions, from the banks of the lake
Dibbie up the Niger, towards Jenné, and
with the whole of his army pushed forwards
into Bambarra. He arrived on the bank
of the Niger opposite to Jenné, before the
townspeople had the smallest intimation of
his approach; his fleet of canoes joined him
the same day, and having landed the pro-
visions, he embarked part of his army, and
in the night took Jenné by storm. This
event so terrified the King of Bambarra,
that he sent messengers to sue for peace,
and in order to obtain it, consented to de-
liver to Moossee a certain number of slaves
every year; and return every thing that
had been taken from the inhabitants of
Gotto. Moossee, thus triumphant, returned
to Gotto, where he was declared king, and
the capital of the country is called by his
name.
On the west of Gotto, is the kingdom of
Baedoo, which was conquered by the pre-
sent king of Bambarra about seven years
ago, and has continued tributary to him
ever since.
Y 2
324
TRAVELS IN THE
West of Baedoo, is Maniana; the inha-
bitants of which, according to the best in-
formation I was able to collect, are cruel
and ferocious; carrying their resentment
towards their enemies, so far as never to
give quarter; and even to indulge them-
selves with unnatural and disgusting ban-
quets of human flesh.
I am well aware that the accounts which
the Negroes give of their enemies, ought to
be received with great caution; but I heard
the same account in so many different king-
doms, and from such variety of people, whose
veracity I had no occasion to suspect, that
I am disposed to allow it some degree of
credit. The inhabitants of Bambarra, in
the course of a long and bloody war, must
have had frequent opportunities of satisfy-
ing themselves as to the fact; and if the
report had been entirely without founda-
tion, I cannot conceive why the term Ma
dummulo (man eaters), should be applied
exclusively to the inhabitants of Maniana.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
325
CHAPTER XVII.
The Author returns Westward-arrives at
Modiboo, and recovers his Horse-finds
great Difficulty in travelling, in consequence
of the Rains, and the overflowing of the
River;—is informed that the King of Bam-
barra had sent Persons to apprehend him ;
avoids Sego, and prosecutes his Journey
along the Banks of the Niger.—Incidents
on the Road.-Cruelties attendant on Afri-
can Wars.-The Author crosses the River
Frina, and arrives at Taffara.
HAVING, for the reasons assigned in the
last Chapter, determined to proceed no far-
ther eastward than Silla, I acquainted the
Dooty with my intention of returning to
Sego, proposing to travel along the southern
side of the river; but he informed me, that,
from the number of creeks and swamps on
that side, it was impossible to travel by any
other route than along the northern bank;
and even that route, he said, would soon be
326
TRAVELS IN THE
impassable, on account of the overflowing
of the river. However, as he commended
my determination to return westward, he
agreed to speak to some one of the fisher-
men to carry me over to Moorzan. I ac-
cordingly stepped into a canoe about eight
o'clock in the morning of July goth, and
in about an hour was landed at Moorzan.
At this place I hired a canoe for sixty Kow-
ries, and in the afternoon arrived at Kea;
where, for forty Kowries more, the Dooty
permitted me to sleep in the same hut with
one of his slaves. This poor Negro, perceiv-
ing that I was sickly, and that my clothes
were very ragged, humanely lent me a large
cloth to cover me for the night.
July 31st. The Dooty's brother being
going to Modiboo, I embraced the oppor-
tunity of accompanying him thither, there
being no beaten road. He promised to carry
my saddle, which I had left at Kea when
my
horse fell down in the woods, as I now
proposed to present it to the king of Bam-
barra.
We departed from Kea at eight o'clock,
and about a mile to the westward observed,
on the bank of the river, a great number of
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
327
earthen jars, piled up together. They were
very neatly formed, but not glazed; and
were evidently of that sort of pottery which
is manufactured at Downie (a town to the
west of Tombuctoo), and sold to great ad-
vantage in different parts of Bambarra. As
we approached towards the jars, my com-
panion plucked up a large handful of herb-
age, and threw it upon them; making signs
for me to do the same, which I did. He
then, with great seriousness, told me that
these jars belonged to some supernatural
power; that they were found in their pre-
sent situation about two years ago; and as
no person had claimed them, every traveller
as he passed them, from respect to the in-
visible proprietor, threw some grass, or the
branch of a tree, upon the heap, to defend
the jars from the rain.
Thus conversing, we travelled in the most
friendly manner until, unfortunately, we
perceived the footsteps of a lion, quite fresh
in the mud, near the river side. My com-
panion now proceeded with great circum-
spection; and at last, coming to some thick
underwood, he insisted that I should walk
before him. I endeavoured to excuse myself,
328
TRAVELS IN THE
。
by alleging that I did not know the road;
but he obstinately persisted; and after a few
high words and menacing looks, threw down
the saddle and went away. This very much
disconcerted me; but as I had given up all
hopes of obtaining a horse, I could not think
of encumbering myself with the saddle;
and taking off the stirrups and girths, I
threw the saddle into the river. The Nęgro
no sooner saw me throw the saddle into the
water, than he came running from among
the bushes where he had concealed himself,
jumped into the river, and by help of his
spear brought out the saddle, and ran away
with it. I continued my course along the
bank; but as the wood was remarkably
thick, and I had reason to believe that a lion
was at no great distance, I became much
alarmed, and took a long circuit through
the bushes to avoid him.
About four in the afternoon I reached
Modiboo, where I found my saddle. The
guide, who had got there before me, being
afraid that I should inform the king of his
conduct, had brought the saddle with him
in a canoe.
While I was conversing with the Dooty,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
329
and remonstrating against the guide for
having left me in such a situation, I heard
a horse neigh in one of the huts; and the
Dooty inquired, with a smile, if I knew who
was speaking to me? He explained himself,
by telling me that my horse was still alive,
and somewhat recovered from his fatigue;
but he insisted that I should take him along
with me; adding, that he had once kept a
Moor's horse for four months, and when the
horse had recovered and got into good con-
dition, the Moor returned and claimed it,
and refused to give him any reward for his
trouble.
August 1st. I departed from Modiboo,
driving my horse before me; and in the
afternoon reached Nyamee, where I re-
mained three days; during which time it
rained without intermission, and with such
violence, that no person could venture out
of doors.
Aug. 5th. I departed from Nyamee;
but the country was so deluged, that I was
frequently in danger of losing the road, and
had to wade across the savannahs for miles
together, knee deep in water. Even the
corn ground, which is the driest land in the
330
TRAVELS IN THE
!
country, was so completely flooded, that
my horse twice stuck fast in the mud, and
was not got out without the greatest dif-
ficulty.
In the evening of the same day I arrived
at Nyara, where I was well received by the
Dooty; and as the 6th was rainy, I did not
depart until the morning of the 7th; but
the water had swelled to such a height, that
in many places the road was scarcely passa-
ble; and though I waded breast deep across
the swamps, I could only reach a small vil-
lage called Nemaboo, where, however, for
an hundred Kowries, I procured from some
Foulahs, plenty of corn for my horse, and
milk for myself.
Aug. 8th. The difficulties I had expe-
rienced the day before, made me anxious.
to engage a fellow-traveller; particularly as
I was assured, that, in the course of a few
days, the country would be so completely
overflowed, as to render the road utterly
impassable; but though I offered two hun-
dred Kowries for a guide, nobody would
accompany me. However, on the morning
following, (August 9th,) a Moor and his
wife, riding upon two bullocks, and bound
י
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
331
for Sego with salt, passed the village, and
agreed to take me along with them; but I
found them of little service; for they were
wholly unacquainted with the road, and
being accustomed to a sandy soil, were very
bad travellers. Instead of wading before
the bullocks, to feel if the ground was solid,
the woman boldly entered the first swamp,
riding upon the top of the load; but when
she had proceeded about two hundred yards,
the bullock sunk into a hole, and threw both
the load and herself among the reeds. The
frightened husband stood for some time
seemingly petrified with horror, and suf-
fered his wife to be almost drowned before
he went to her assistance.
About sunset we reached Sibity; but
the Dooty received me very coolly: and
when I solicited for a guide to Sansanding,
he told me his people were otherwise em-
ployed. I was shewn into a damp old hut,
where I passed a very uncomfortable night;
for when the walls of the huts are softened
by the rain, they frequently become too
weak to support the weight of the roof. I
heard three huts fall during the night, and
was apprehensive that the hut I lodged in
1
332
TRAVELS IN THE
would be the fourth. In the morning, as I
went to pull some grass for my horse, I
counted fourteen huts which had fallen in
this manner, since the commencement of
the rainy season.
It continued to rain with great violence
all the 10th; and as the Dooty refused to
give me any provisions, I purchased some
corn, which I divided with my horse.
Aug. 11th. The Dooty compelled me
to depart from the town, and I set out for
Sansanding, without any great hopes of
faring better there than I had done at Si-
bity; for I learned, from people who came
to visit me, that a report prevailed, and
was universally believed, that I had come
to Bambarra as a spy; and as Mansong
had not admitted me into his presence, the
Dooties of the different towns were at liber-
ty to treat me in what manner they pleased.
From repeatedly hearing the same story, I
had no doubt of the truth of it; but as
there was no alternative, I determined to
proceed, and a little before sunset I arrived
at Şansanding. My reception was what I
expected. Counti Mamadi, who had been
so kind to me formerly, scarcely gave me
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
333
welcome. Every one wished to shun me;
and my landlord sent a person to inform
me, that a very unfavourable report was
received from Sego concerning me, and
that he wished me to depart early in the
morning. About ten o'clock at night
Counti Mamadi himself came privately to
me, and informed me, that Mansong had
dispatched a canoe to Jenné to bring me
back; and he was afraid I should find
great difficulty in going to the west coun-
try. He advised me, therefore, to depart
from Sansanding before daybreak; and
cautioned me against stopping at Dig-
gani, or any town near Sego.
Aug. 12th. I departed from Sansanding,
and reached Kabba in the afternoon. As I
approached the town, I was surprised to
see several people assembled at the gate;
one of whom, as I advanced, came running
towards me, and taking my horse by the
bridle, led me round the walls of the town;
and then pointing to the west, told me to
go along, or it would fare worse with me.
It was in vain that I represented the dan-
ger of being benighted in the woods, ex-
posed to the inclemency of the` weather,
A
334
TRAVELS IN THE
3
and to the fury of wild beasts. "Go along,"
was all the answer; and a number of
people coming up, and urging me in the
same manner with great earnestness, I
suspected that some of the king's messen-
gers, who were sent in search of me, were
in the town; and that these Negroes, from
mere kindness, conducted me past it, with
a view to facilitate my escape. I accord-
ingly took the road for Sego, with the
uncomfortable prospect of passing the night
on the branches of a tree. After travelling
about three miles, I came to a small village
near the road. The Dooty was splitting
sticks by the gate; but I found I could
have no admittance; and when I at-
tempted to enter, he jumped up, and with
the stick he held in his hand threatened to
strike me off the horse, if I presumed to
advance another step.
At a little distance from this village (and
farther from the road), is another small one.
I conjectured, that being rather out of the
common route, the inhabitants might have
fewer objections to give me house room for
the night; and having crossed some corn
fields, I sat down under a tree by the well.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
335
Two or three women came to draw water;
and one of them perceiving I was a stran-
ger, inquired whither I was going. I told
her I was going for Sego, but being be-
nighted on the road, I wished to stay at
the village until morning; and begged
she would acquaint the Dooty with my
situation. In a little time the Dooty sent
for me, and permitted me to sleep in a large
baloon, in one corner of which was con-
structed a kiln for drying the fruit of the
Shea trees it contained about half a cart-
load of fruit, under which was kept up a
clear wood fire. I was informed, that in
three days the fruit would be ready for
pounding and boiling; and that the but-
ter thus manufactured, is preferable to that
which is prepared from fruit dried in the
sun; especially in the rainy season; when
the process by insolation is always tedious,
and oftentimes ineffectual.
Aug. 13th. About ten o'clock I reached
a small village within half a mile of Sego,
where I endeavoured, but in vain, to pro-
cure some provisions. Every one seemed
anxious to avoid me; and I could plainly
perceive, by the looks and behaviour of the
336
TRAVELS IN THE
&
inhabitants, that some very unfavourable
accounts had been circulated concerning
me. I was again informed, that Mansong
had sent people to apprehend me; and the
Dooty's son told me I had no time to lose,
if I wished to get safe out of Bambarra. I
now fully saw the danger of my situation,
and determined to avoid Sego altogether.
I accordingly mounted my horse, and tak-
ing the road for Diggani, travelled as fast
as I could, until I was out of sight of the
villagers, when I struck to the westward,
through high grass and swampy ground.
About noon, I stopped under a tree, to con-
sider what course to take; for I had now no
doubt but that the Moors and Slatees had
misinformed the king respecting the object
of my mission, and that people were abso-
lutely in search of me, to convey me a pri-
soner to Sego. Sometimes I had thoughts
of swimming my horse across the Niger,
and going to the southward for Cape Coast;
but reflecting that I had ten days to travel
before I should reach Kong, and afterward
an extensive country to traverse, inhabited
by various nations, with whose language
and manners I was totally unacquainted,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
337
I relinquished this scheme, and judged, that
I should better answer the purpose of my
mission, by proceeding to the westward
along the Niger, endeavouring to ascertain
how far the river was navigable in that di-
rection. Having resolved upon this course;
I proceeded accordingly; and a little before
sunset arrived at a Foulah village called
Sooboo, where, for two hundred Kowries,
I procured lodging for the night.
Aug. 14th. I continued my course along
the bank of the river, through a populous
and well cultivated country. I passed a
walled town called Kamalia,* without stop-
ping; and at noon rode through a large
town called Samee, where there happened
to be a market, and a number of people
assembled in an open place in the middle
of the town, selling cattle, cloth, corn, &c.
I rode through the midst of them without
being much observed; every one taking
me for a Moor. In the afternoon I arrived
at a small village called Binni, where I
agreed with the Dooty's son, for one hun-
dred Kowries, to allow me to stay for the
*There is another town of this name, hereafter to
be mentioned.
Ꮓ
338
TRAVELS IN THE
night; but when the Dooty returned, he
insisted that I should instantly leave the
place; and if his wife and son had not
interceded for me, I must have complied.
Aug. 15th. About nine o'clock I passed
a large town called Sai, which very much
excited my curiosity. It is completely sur-
rounded by two very deep trenches, at about
two hundred yards distant from the walls.
On the top of the trenches are a number of
square towers; and the whole has the ap-
pearance of a regular fortification. Inquir-
ing into the origin of this extraordinary
entrenchment, I learned from two of the
townspeople the following particulars
which, if true, furnish a mournful picture
of the enormities of African wars. About
fifteen years ago, when the present King
of Bambarra's father desolated Maniana,
the Dooty of Sai had two sons slain in
battle, fighting in the king's cause. He
had a third son living; and when the king
demanded a further reinforcement of men,
and this youth among the rest, the Dooty
refused to send him. This conduct so en-
raged the king, that when he returned
from Maniana, about the beginning of the
1.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
339
rainy season, and found the Dooty pro-
tected by the inhabitants, he sat down be-
fore Sai, with his army, and surrounded
the town with the trenches I had now seen.
After a siege of two months, the towns-
people became involved in all the horrors
of famine; and whilst the king's army were
feasting in their trenches, they saw with
pleasure, the miserable inhabitants of Sai
devour the leaves and bark of the Bentang
tree that stood in the middle of the town.
Finding, however, that the besieged would
sooner perish than surrender, the king had
recourse to treachery. He promised, that
if they would open the gates, no person
should be put to death, nor suffer any in-
jury, but the Dooty alone. The poor old
man determined to sacrifice himself, for
the sake of his fellow-citizens, and imme-
diately walked over to the king's army,
where he was put to death. His son, in
attempting to escape, was caught and mas-
sacred in the trenches; and the rest of the
townspeople were carried away captives,
and sold as slaves to the different Negro
traders.
About noon I came to the village of
Z 2
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TRAVELS IN THE
;
Kaimoo, situated upon the bank of the
river; and as the corn I had purchased
at Sibili, was exhausted, I endeavoured to
purchase a fresh supply; but was informed
that corn was become very scarce all over
the country; and though I offered fifty
Kowries for a small quantity, no person
would sell me any. As I was about to de-
part, however, one of the villagers (who
probably mistook me for a Moorish she-
reef) brought me some as a present; only
desiring me in return, to bestow my bless-
ing upon him; which I did in plain Eng-
lish, and he received it with a thousand
acknowledgments. Of this present I made
my dinner; and it was the third successive
day that I had subsisted entirely upon raw
corn.
In the evening I arrived at a small vil-
lage called Song, the surly inhabitants of
which would not receive me, nor so much
as permit me to enter the gate; but as
lions were very numerous in this neigh-
bourhood, and I had frequently, in the
course of the day, seen the impression of
their feet on the road, I resolved to stay
in the vicinity of the village. Having
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
341
collected some grass for my horse, I accord-
ingly lay down under a tree by the gate.
About ten o'clock I heard the hollow roar
of a lion at no great distance, and attempted
to open the gate; but the people from within
told me, that no person must attempt to
enter the gate without the Dooty's permis-
sion. I begged them to inform the Dooty
that a lion was approaching the village, and
I hoped he would allow me to come within
the gate. I waited for an answer to this
message with great anxiety; for the lion
kept prowling round the village, and once
advanced so very near me, that I heard him
rustling among the grass, and climbed the
tree for safety. About midnight the Dooty
with some of his people, opened the gate,
and desired me to come in. They were
convinced, they said, that I was not a Moor;
for no Moor ever waited any time at the
gate of a village, without cursing the inha-
bitants.
Aug. 16th. About ten o'clock I passed
a considerable town, with a mosque, called
Jabbee. Here the country begins to rise
into hills, and I could see the summits of
high mountains to the westward. I had
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TRAVELS IN THE
very disagreeable travelling all this day, on
account of the swampiness of the roads; for
the river was now risen to such a height,
as to overflow great part of the flat land on
both sides; and from the muddiness of the
water, it was difficult to discern its depth.
In crossing one of these swamps, a little to
the westward of a town called Gangu, my
horse being up to the belly in water, slipt
suddenly into a deep pit, and was almost
drowned before he could disengage his feet
from the stiff clay at the bottom. Indeed,
both the horse and his rider were so com-
pletely covered with mud, that in passing
the village of Callimana, the people com-
pared us to two dirty elephants. About
noon I stopped at a small village near Ya-
mina, where I purchased some corn, and
dried my papers and clothes.
The town of Yamina, at a distance, has
a very fine appearance. It covers nearly
the same extent of ground as Sansanding;
but having been plundered by Daisy, King
of Kaarta, about four years ago, it has not
yet resumed its former prosperity; nearly
one half of the town being nothing but a
heap of ruins: however, it is still a consi-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
343
derable place, and is so much frequented
by the Moors, that I did not think it safe
to lodge in it; but, in order to satisfy my-
self respecting its population and extent, I
resolved to ride through it; in doing which
I observed a great many Moors sitting upon
the Bentangs, and other places of public
resort. Every body looked at me with asto-
nishment; but as I rode briskly along, they
had no time to ask questions.
I arrived in the evening at Farra, a walled
village; where, without much difficulty, I
procured a lodging for the night.
Aug. 17th. Early in the morning I pur-
sued my journey, and at eight o'clock passed
a considerable town called Balaba; after
which the road quits the plain, and stretches
along the side of the hill. I passed in the
course of this day the ruins of three towns;
the inhabitants of which were all carried
away by Daisy, King of Kaarta, on the
same day that he took and plundered Ya-
mina. Near one of these ruins I climbed a
tamarind tree, but found the fruit quite
green and sour; and the prospect of the
country was by no means inviting; for the
high grass and bushes seemed completely
344
TRAVELS IN THE
to obstruct the road, and the low lands were
all so flooded by the river, that the Niger
had the appearance of an extensive lake. In
the evening I arrived at Kanika, where the
Dooty, who was sitting upon an elephant's
hide at the gate, received me kindly; and
gave me for supper, some milk and meal;
which I considered (as to a person in my
situation it really was) a very great luxury.
Aug. 18th. By mistake, I took the wrong
road, and did not discover my error until I
had travelled near four miles; when coming
to an eminence, I observed the Niger con-
siderably to the left. Directing my course
towards it, I travelled through long grass
and bushes, with great difficulty, until two
o'clock in the afternoon; when I came to
a comparatively small, but very rapid river;
which I took at first for a creek, or one of
the streams of the Niger. However, after
I had examined it with more attention, I
was convinced that it was a distinct river:
and as the road evidently crossed it (for I
could see the pathway on the opposite side),
I sat down upon the bank, in hopes that
some traveller might arrive, who would give
me the necessary information concerning
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
345
the fording place; for the banks were so
covered with reeds and bushes, that it would
have been almost impossible to land on the
other side, except at the pathway; which,
on account of the rapidity of the stream, it
seemed very difficult to reach. No travel-
ler, however, arriving, and there being a
great appearance of rain, I examined the
grass and bushes, for some way up the bank,
and determined upon entering the river con-
siderably above the pathway, in order to
reach the other side before the stream had
swept me too far down. With this view I
fastened my clothes upon the saddle, and
was standing up to the neck in water, pul-
ling my horse by the bridle to make him
follow me, when a man came accidentally
to the place, and seeing me in the water,
called to me with great vehemence to come
out. The alligators, he said, would devour
both me and my horse, if we attempted
to swim over. When I had got out, the
stranger, who had never before seen a Eu-
ropean, seemed wonderfully surprised. He
twice put his hand to his mouth, exclaiming
in a low tone of voice, “God preserve me!
who is this?" but when he heard me speak
346
TRAVELS IN THE
the Bambarra tongue, and found that I was
going the same way as himself, he promised
to assist me in crossing the river; the name
of which he told me was Frina. He then
went a little way along the bank, and called
to some person, who answered from the
other side. In a short time, a canoe with
two boys, came paddling from among the
reeds: these boys agreed for fifty Kowries,
to transport me and my horse over the river,
which was effected without much difficulty;
and I arrived in the evening at Taffara, a
walled town; and soon discovered that the
language of the natives was improved, from
the corrupted dialect of Bambarra, to the
pure Mandingo.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
347
CHAPTER XVIII.
Inhospitable Reception at Taffara.-A Negro
Funeral at Sooba.-The Author continues
his Route through several Villages along
the Banks of the Niger, until he comes to
Koolikorro.-Supports himself by writing
Saphies reaches Maraboo - loses the
Road; and after many difficulties arrives
at Bammakoo.-Takes the Road for Sibi-
dooloo-meets with great Kindness at a
Village called Kooma; -is afterwards
robbed, stripped, and plundered by Ban-
ditti.-The Author's Resource and Conso-
lation under exquisite Distress.-He arrives
in Safety at Sibidooloo.
ON
N my
my arrival at Taffara, I inquired for
the Dooty, but was informed that he had
died a few days before my arrival, and that
there was, at that moment, a meeting of the
chief men for electing another; there being
some dispute about the succession. It was
probably owing to this unsettled state of
348
TRAVELS IN THE
き
​the town, that I experienced such a want
of hospitality in it; for though I informed
the inhabitants that I should only remain
with them for one night, and assured them
that Mansong had given me some Kowries
to pay for my lodging, yet no person in-
vited me to come in; and I was forced to
sit alone, under the Bentang tree, exposed
to the rain and wind of a tornado, which
lasted with great violence until midnight.
At this time the stranger, who had assisted
me in crossing the river, paid me a visit,
and observing that I had not found a lodg-
ing, invited me to take part of his supper,
which he had brought to the door of his
hut; for, being a guest himself, he could
not, without his landlord's consent, invite
me to come in. After this, I slept upon
some wet grass in the corner of a court.
My horse fared still worse than myself; the
corn I had purchased being all expended,
and I could not procure a supply.
Aug. 20th. I passed the town of Jaba,
and stopped a few minutes at a village
called Somino, where I begged and obtained
some coarse food, which the natives prepare
from the husks of corn, and call Boo. About
>
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
349
two o'clock I came to the village of Sooha,
and endeavoured to purchase some corn
from the Dooty, who was sitting by the
gate; but without success. I then requested
a little food by way of charity, but was told
he had none to spare. Whilst I was exa-
mining the countenance of this inhospitable
old man, and endeavouring to find out the
cause of the sullen discontent, which was
visible in his eye, he called to a slave who
was working in the corn-field at a little
distance, and ordered him to bring his hoe
along with him. The Dooty then told him
to dig a hole in the ground; pointing to a
spot at no great distance. The slave, with
his hoe, began to dig a pit in the earth; and
the Dooty, who appeared to be a man of a
very
fretful disposition, kept muttering and
talking to himself until the pit was almost
finished, when he repeatedly pronounced
the words dankatoo (good for nothing);
jankra lemen (a real plague); which expres-
sions I thought could be applied to nobody
but myself; and as the pit had very much
the appearance of a grave, I thought it pru-
dent to mount my horse, and was about to
decamp, when the slave, who had before
350
TRAVELS IN THE
}
gone into the village, to my surprise, re-
turned with the corpse of a boy about nine
or ten years of age, quite naked. The
Negro carried the body by a leg and an
arm, and threw it into the pit with a sa-
vage indifference, which I had never be-
fore seen. As he covered the body with
earth, the Dooty often expressed himself,
naphula attiniata (money lost); whence I
concluded that the boy had been one of his
slaves.
Departing from this shocking scene, I
travelled by the side of the river until sun-
set, when I came to Koolikorro; a consi-
derable town, and a great market for salt.
Here I took up my lodging at the house of
a Bambarran, who had formerly been the
slave of a Moor, and in that character had
travelled to Aroan, Towdinni, and many
other places in the Great Desert; but turn-
ing Mussulman, and his master dying at
Jenné, he obtained his freedom, and settled
at this place, where he carries on a consi-
derable trade in salt, cotton-cloth, &c. His
knowledge of the world had not lessened
that superstitious confidence in saphies and
charms, which he had imbibed in his earlier
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
852
years; for when he heard that I was a Chris-
tian, he immediately thought of procuring
a saphie; and for this purpose brought out
his walba, or writing board; assuring me,
that he would dress me a supper of rice, if
I would write him a saphie to protect him
from wicked men. The proposal was of too
great consequence to me to be refused; I
therefore wrote the board full, from top tọ
bottom, on both sides; and my landlord, tọ
be certain of having the whole force of the
charm, washed the writing from the board
into a calabash with a little water, and
having said a few prayers over it, drank
this powerful draught; after which, lest a
single word should escape, he licked the
board until it was quite dry. A saphie
writer was a man of too great consequence
to be long concealed: the important infor-
mation was carried to the Dooty, who sent
his son with half a sheet of writing-paper,
desiring me to write him a naphula saphie
(a charm to procure wealth). He brought
me, as a present, some meal and milk;
and when I had finished the saphie, and
read it to him with an audible voice, he
seemed highly satisfied with his bargain,
1
352
TRAVELS IN THE
and promised to bring me in the morning
some milk for my breakfast. When I had
finished my supper of rice and sa't, I laid
myself down upon a bullock's hide, and
slept very quietly until morning; this being
the first good meal and refreshing sleep that
I had enjoyed for a long time.
Aug. 21st. At daybreak I departed from
Koolikorro, and about noon passed the vil-
lages of Kayoo and Toolumbo. In the after-
noon I arrived at Maraboo; a large town,
and, like Koolikorro, famous for its trade
in salt. I was conducted to the house of a
Kaartan, of the tribe of Jower, by whom I
was well received. This man had acquired
a considerable property in the slave trade;
and from his hospitality to strangers, was
called, by way of pre-emine ce, Jatee (the
landlord); and his house was a sort of public
inn for all travellers. Those who had money
were well lodged, for they always made him
some return for his kindness; but those who
had nothing to give, were content to accept
whatever he thought proper; and as I could
not rank myself among the monied men, I
was happy to take up my lodging in the
same hut with seven poor fellows who had
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
353
come from Kancaba in a canoe. But our
landlord sent us some victuals.
Aug. 22d. One of the landlord's ser-
vants went with me a little way from the
town to shew me what road to take; but,
whether from ignorance or design I know
not, he directed me wrong; and I did not
discover my mistake until the day was far
advanced; when, coming to a deep creek, I
had some thoughts of turning back; but as,
by that means, I foresaw that I could not
possibly reach Bammakoo before night, I
resolved to cross it; and leading my horse.
close to the brink, I went behind him, and
pushed him headlong into the water; and
then taking the bridle in my teeth, swam
over to the other side. This was the third
creek I had crossed in this manner, since I
had left Sego; but having secured my notes
and memorandums in the crown of my hat,
I received little or no inconvenience from
such adventures. The rain and heavy dew
kept my clothes constantly wet; and the
roads being very deep, and full of mud,
such a washing was sometimes pleasant,
and oftentimes necessary. I continued tra-
velling, through high grass, without any
A a
354
TRAVELS IN THE
beaten road, and about noon came to the
river; the banks of which are here very
rocky, and the force and roar of the water
were very great. The King of Bambarra's
canoes, however, frequently pass these ra-
pids, by keeping close to the bank; persons
being stationed on the shore with ropes.
fastened to the canoe, while others push it
forward with long poles. At this time,
however, it would, I think, have been a
matter of great difficulty for any European
boat to have crossed the stream. About
four o'clock in the afternoon, having altered
my course from the river towards the moun-
tains, I came to a small pathway, which
led to a village called Frookaboo, where I
slept.
Aug. 23d. Early in the morning I set
out for Bammakoo, at which place I arrived
about five o'clock in the afternoon. I had
heard Bammakoo much talked of as a great
market for salt, and I felt rather disappoint-
ed to find it only a middling town, not quite
so large as Marraboo: however, the small-
ness of its size, is more than compensated
by the riches of its inhabitants; for when
the Moors bring their salt through Kaarta
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
355
or Bambarra, they constantly rest a few
days at this place; and the Negro merchants
here, who are well acquainted with the value
of salt in different kingdoms, frequently
purchase by wholesale, and retail it to great
advantage. Here I lodged at the house of
a Sera-Woolli Negro, and was visited by a
number of Moors. They spoke very good
Mandingo, and were more civil to me than
their countrymen had been. One of them
had travelled to Rio Grande, and spoke very
highly of the Christians. He sent me in the
evening some boiled rice and milk. I now
endeavoured to procure information con-
cerning my route to the westward, from a
slave merchant who had resided some years
on the Gambia. He gave me some imper-
fect account of the distance, and enumerated
the names of a great many places that lay
in the way; but withal told me, that the
road was impassable at this season of the
year: he was even afraid, he said, that I
should find great difficulty in proceeding
any farther; as the road crossed the Joliba
at a town about half a day's journey to the
westward of Bammakoo; and there being
no canoes at that place large enough to
1
A a 2
356
TRAVELS IN THE
receive my horse, I could not possibly get
him over for some months to come. This
was an obstruction of a very serious nature;
but as I had no money to maintain myself
even for a few days, I resolved to push on,
and if I could not convey my horse across
the river, to abandon him, and swim over
myself. In thoughts of this nature I passed
the night, and in the morning consulted
with my landlord how I should surmount
the present difficulty. He informed me that
one road still remained, which was indeed
very rocky, and scarcely passable for horses;
but that if I had a proper guide over the
hills to a town called Sibidooloo, he had no
doubt, but with patience and caution, I
might travel forwards through Manding.
I immediately applied to the Dooty, and
was informed that a Jilli Kea (singing man)
was about to depart for Sibidooloo, and
would shew me the road over the hills.
With this man, who undertook to be my
conductor, I travelled up a rocky glen about
two miles, when we came to a small village;
and here my musical fellow-traveller found
out that he had brought me the wrong road.
He told me that the horse-road lay on the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
857
other side of the hill, and throwing his drum
upon his back, mounted up the rocks, where
indeed no horse could follow him, leaving
me to admire his agility, and trace out a
road for myself. As I found it impossible
to proceed, I rode back to the level ground,
and directing my course to the eastward,
came about noon to another glen, and dis-
covered a path on which I observed the
marks of horses' feet: following this path,
I came in a short time to some shepherds'
huts, where I was informed that I was in
the right road, but that I could not possibly
reach Sibidooloo before night. Soon after
this I gained the summit of a hill, from
whence I had an extensive view of the coun-
try. Towards the south-east, appeared some
very distant mountains, which I had for-
merly seen from an eminence near Marra-
boo, where the people informed me, that
these mountains were situated in a large and
powerful kingdom called Kong; the sove-
reign of which could raise a much greater
army than the King of Bambarra. Upon
this height the soil is shallow; the rocks
are iron-stone and schistus, with detached
pieces of white
quartz.
358
TRAVELS IN THE
4
A little before sunset, I descended on the
north-west side of this ridge of hills, and
as I was looking about for a convenient
tree, under which to pass the night (for
I had no hopes of reaching any town), I
descended into a delightful valley, and soon
afterwards arrived at a romantic village
called Kooma. This village is surrounded
by a high wall, and is the sole property of a
Mandingo merchant, who fled hither with
his family during a former war. The ad-
jacent fields yield him plenty of corn, his
cattle roam at large in the valley, and the
rocky hills secure him from the depreda-
tions of war. In this obscure retreat he is
seldom visited by strangers, but whenever
this happens, he makes the weary traveller
welcome. I soon found myself surrounded
by a circle of the harmless villagers. They
asked me a thousand questions about my
country; and, in return for my informa-
tion, brought corn and milk for myself,
and grass for my horse
horse; kindled a fire in
the hut where I was to sleep, and appeared
very anxious to serve me.
Aug. 25th. I departed from Kooma, ac-
companied by two shepherds, who were
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
359
going towards Sibidooloo. The road was
very steep and rocky, and as my horse had
hurt his feet much in coming from Bam-
makoo, he travelled slowly and with great
difficulty; for in many places the ascent
was so sharp, and the declivities so great,
that if he had made one false step, he must
inevitably have been dashed to pieces. The
shepherds being anxious to proceed, gave
themselves little trouble about me or my
horse, and kept walking on at a consider-
able distance. It was about eleven o'clock,
as I stopped to drink a little water at a ri-
vulet (my companions being near a quarter
of a mile before me), that I heard some
people calling to each other, and presently
a loud screaming, as from a person in great
distress. I immediately conjectured that a
lion had taken one of the shepherds, and
mounted my horse to have a better view of
what had happened. The noise, however,
ceased; and I rode slowly towards the
place from whence I thought it had pro-
ceeded, calling out; but without receiving
any answer. In a little time, however, I
perceived one of the shepherds lying among
the long grass near the road; and though
".
360
TRAVELS IN THE
}
I could see no blood upon him, I concluded
he was dead. But when I came close to him,
he whispered me to stop; telling me that
a party of armed men had seized upon his
companion, and shot two arrows at himself,
as he was making his escape. I stopped to
consider what course to take, and looking
round, saw at a little distance a man sit-
ting upon the stump of a tree: I distin-
guished also the heads of six or seven more,
sitting among the grass, with muskets in
their hands. I had now no hopes of escap-
ing, and therefore determined to ride for-
ward towards them. As I approached them,
I was in hopes they were elephant hunters;
and by way of opening the conversation,
inquired if they had shot any thing; but
without returning an answer, one of them
ordered me to dismount; and then, as if
recollecting himself, waved with his hand
for me to proceed. I accordingly rode
past, and had with some difficulty crossed
a deep rivulet, when I heard some body
holloa; and looking behind, saw those I
had taken for elephant hunters, running
after me, and calling out to me to turn
back. I stopped until they were all come
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
361
up; when they informed me that the King
of the Foulahs had sent them on purpose
to bring me, my horse, and every thing
that belonged to me, to Fooladoo; and
that therefore I must turn back, and go
along with them. Without hesitating a
moment, I turned round and followed
them, and we travelled together near a
quarter of a mile, without exchanging a
word; when coming to a dark place of
the wood, one of them said, in the Man-
dingo language," this place will do ;" and
immediately snatched my hat from my
head. Though I was by no means free
of apprehension, yet I resolved to shew as
few signs of fear as possible, and therefore
told them, that unless my hat was returned
to me, I should proceed no further. But
before I had time to receive an answer,
another drew his knife, and seizing upon
a metal button which remained upon my
waistcoat, cut it off, and put it into his
pocket. Their intentions were now ob-
vious; and I thought that the easier they
were permitted to rob me of every thing, the
less I had to fear. I therefore allowed them
to search my pockets without resistance,
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TRAVELS IN THE
and examine every part of my apparel,
which they did with the most scrupu-
lous exactness. But observing that I had
one waistcoat under another, they insisted
that I should cast them both of; and at
last, to make sure work, stripped me quite
naked. Even my half boots (though the
sole of one of them was tied on to my foot
with a broken bridle-rein), were minutely
inspected. Whilst they were examining
the plunder, I begged them, with great
earnestness, to return my pocket compass;
but when I pointed it out to them, as it
was lying on the ground, one of the ban-
ditti, thinking I was about to take it up,
cocked his musket, and swore that he would
lay me dead upon the spot, if I presumed to
put my hand upon it. After this, some of them
went away with my horse, and the remain-
der stood considering whether they should
leave me quite naked, or allow me some-
thing to shelter me from the sun. Huma-
nity at last prevailed: they returned me
the worst of the two shirts, and a pair of
trowsers; and, as they went away, one of
them threw back my hat, in the crown
which I kept my memorandums; and this
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
363
:
was probably the reason they did not wish
to keep it. After they were gone, I sat for
some time, looking around me with amaze-
ment and terror. Which ever way I turned,
nothing appeared but danger and difficulty.
I saw myself in the midst of a vast wilder-
ness, in the depth of the rainy season; naked
and alone; surrounded by savage animals,
and men still more savage. I was five
hundred miles from the nearest European
settlement. All these circumstances crowd-
ed at once on my recollection; and I con-
fess that my spirits began to fail me. I
considered my fate as certain, and that I
had no alternative, but to lie down and
perish. The influence of religion, however,
aided and supported me. I reflected that
no human prudence or foresight, could
possibly have averted my present suffer-
ings. I was indeed a stranger in a strange
land, yet I was still under the protecting
eye of that Providence who has conde-
scended to call himself the stranger's
friend. At this moment, painful as my
reflections were, the extraordinary beauty
of a small moss, in fructification, irresis-
tibly caught my eye. I mention this to
と
​364
TRAVELS IN THE
ap-
shew from what trifling circumstances the
mind will sometimes derive consolation;
for though the whole plant was not larger
than the top of one of my fingers, I could not
contemplate the delicate conformation of its
roots, leaves, and capsula, without admira-
tion. Can that being (thought I), who plant-
ed, watered, and brought to perfection, in this
obscure part of the world, a thing which
pears of so small importance, look with un-
concern upon the situation and sufferings
of creatures formed after his own image?
-surely not! Reflexions like these, would
not allow me to despair. I started up, and
disregarding both hunger and fatigue, tra-
velled forwards, assured that relief was at
hand; and I was not disappointed. In a
short time I came to a small village, at the
entrance of which I overtook the two shep-
herds who had come with me from Kooma,
They were much surprised to see me; for
they said, they never doubted that the
Foulahs, when they had robbed, had mur-
dered me. Departing from this village, we
travelled over several rocky ridges, and at
sunset, arrived at Sibidooloo; the frontier
town of the kingdom of Manding.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 5
365
CHAPTER XIX.
Government of Manding.-The Author's Re-
ception by the Mansa, or chief Man of Sibi-
dooloo, who takes Measures for the Recovery
of his Horse and Effects.-the Author re-
moves to Wonda;-great Scarcity, and its
afflicting Consequences.-The Author re-
covers his Horse and Clothes-presents
his Horse to the Mansa; and prosecutes
his Journey to Kamalia-some Account
of that Town.-The Author's kind Re-
ception by Karfa Taura, a Slatee, who
proposes to go to the Gambia in the next
dry Season, with a Caravan of Slaves.-
The Author's Sickness, and Determination
to remain and accompany Karfa.
THE town of Sibidooloo is situated in a
fertile valley, surrounded with high rocky
hills. It is scarcely accessible for horses,
and during the frequent wars between the
Bambarrans, Foulahs, and Mandingoes, has
never once been plundered by an enemy.
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TRAVELS IN THE
When I entered the town, the people ga-
thered round me, and followed me into the
baloon; where I was presented to the Dooty
or chief man, who is here called Mansa,
which usually signifies king. Nevertheless,
it appeared to me that the government of
Manding was a sort of republic, or rather
an oligarchy; every town having a parti-
cular Mansa, and the chief power of the
state, in the last resort, being lodged in
the assembly of the whole body. I related
to the Mansa, the circumstances of my
having been robbed of my horse and ap-
parel: and my story was confirmed by the
two shepherds. He continued smoking his
pipe all the time I was speaking; but I
had no sooner finished, than taking his
pipe from his mouth, and tossing up the
sleeve of his cloak with an indignant air,
"sit down (said he), you shall have every
thing restored to you; I have sworn it:"
-and then turning to an attendant, "give
"the white man (said he) a draught of
66
cc
water; and with the first light of the
morning, go over the hills, and inform
"the Dooty of Bammakoo, that a poor
"white man, the King of Bambarra´s
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
367
stranger, has been robbed by the King of
"Fooladoo's people."
I little expected, in my forlorn condition,
to meet with a man who could thus feel for
my sufferings. I heartily thanked the Mansa
for his kindness, and accepted his invita-
tion to remain with him until the return of
the messenger. I was conducted into a hut,
and had some victuals sent me; but the
crowd of people which assembled to see
me, all of whom commiserated my mis-
fortunes, and vented imprecations against
the Foulahs, prevented me from sleeping
until past midnight. Two days I remained
without hearing any intelligence of my
horse or clothes; and as there was at
this time a great scarcity of provisions,
approaching even to famine, all over this
part of the country, I was unwilling to
trespass any farther on the Mansa's gene-
rosity, and begged permission to depart to
the next village. Finding me very anxious
to proceed, he told me that I might go as
far as a town called Wonda, where he hoped
I would remain a few days, until I heard
some account of my horse, &c.
I departed accordingly on the next morn-
368
TRAVELS IN THE
"
ing of the 28th, and stopped at some small
villages for refreshment. I was presented
at one of them with a dish which I had
never before seen. It was composed of
the blossoms or antheræ of the maize,
stewed in milk and water. It is eaten only
in time of great scarcity. On the goth, about
noon, I arrived at Wonda; a small town
with a mosque, and surrounded by a high
wall. The Mansa, who was a Mahome-
dan, acted in two capacities; as chief ma-
gistrate of the town, and schoolmaster to
the children. He kept his school in an
open shed, where I was desired to take
up my lodging, until some account should
arrive from Sibidooloo, concerning my
horse and clothes; for though the horse
was of little use to me, yet the few clothes
were essential. The little raiment upon me
could neither protect me from the sun by
day, nor the dews and musketoes by night:
indeed, my shirt was not only worn thin,
like a piece of muslin, but withal was so
very dirty, that I was happy to embrace an
opportunity of washing it; which having
done, and spread it upon a bush, I sat down
naked, in the shade, until it was dry.
Į
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
369
Ever since the commencement of the
rainy season, my health had been greatly
on the decline. I had often been affected
with slight paroxysms of fever; and from
the time of leaving Bammakoo, the symp-
toms had considerably increased. As I was
sitting in the manner described, the fever
returned with such violence, that it very
much alarmed me: the more so, as I had
no medicine to stop its progress, nor any
hope of obtaining that care and attention
which my situation required.
I remained at Wonda nine days; during
which time I experienced the regular re-
turn of the fever every day. And though
I endeavoured as much as possible to con-
ceal my distress from my landlord, and fre-
quently lay down the whole day, out of his
sight, in a corn field; conscious how bur-
thensome I was to him and his family, in a
time of such great scarcity; yet I found
that he was apprized of my situation; and
one morning, as I feigned to be asleep by
the fire, he observed to his wife, that they
were likely to find me a very troublesome
and chargeable guest; for that, in my pre-
sent sickly state, they should be obliged,
B b
→
370
TRAVELS IN THE
for the sake of their good name, to main-
tain me until I recovered, or died.
The scarcity of provisions was certainly
felt at this time most severely by the poor
people, as the following circumstance most
painfully convinced me. Every evening,
during my stay, I observed five or six wo-
men come to the Mansa's house, and receive
each of them a certain quantity of corn. As
I knew how valuable this article was at this
juncture, I inquired of the Mansa, whether
he maintained these poor women from pure
bounty, or expected a return when the har-
vest should be gathered in. "Observe that
boy, said he, (pointing to a fine child,
about five years of age); "his mother has
“sold him to me, for forty days' provision
"for herself, and the rest of her family. I
"have bought another boy in the same
66
manner." Good God, thought I, what
must a mother suffer, before she sells her
own child! I could not get this melancho-
ly subject out of my mind, and the next
night, when the women returned for their
allowance, I desired the boy to point out
to me his mother, which he did. She was
much emaciated, but had nothing cruel or
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
371
savage in her countenance; and when she
had received her corn, she came and talked
to her son, with as much cheerfulness as if
he had still been under her care.
Sept. 6th. Two people arrived from Sibi-
dooloo, bringing with them my horse and
clothes; but I found that my pocket com-
pass was broken to pieces. This was a great
loss, which I could not repair.
Sept. 7th. As my horse was grazing
near the brink of a well, the ground gave
way, and he fell in. The well was about
ten feet diameter, and so very deep, that
when I saw my horse snorting in the water,
I thought it was impossible to save him.
The inhabitants of the village, however,
immediately assembled, and having tied
together a number of withes,* they lowered
a man down into the well, who fastened
those withes round the body of the horse;
and the people, having first drawn up the
man, took hold of the withes, and to my
surprise pulled the horse out with the great-
est facility. The poor animal was now re-
duced to a mere skeleton, and the roads
* From a plant called kabba, that climbs like a vine
upon the trees.
B b 2
372
TRAVELS IN THE
p
:
}
were scarcely passable, being either very
rocky, or else full of mud and water; I
therefore found it impracticable to travel
with him any farther, and was happy to
leave him in the hands of one who I thought
would take care of him. I accordingly pre-
sented him to my landlord; and desired him
to send my saddle and bridle, as a present,
to the Mansa of Sibidooloo; being the only
return I could make him, for having taken
so much trouble in procuring my horse and
clothes.
I now thought it necessary, sick as I was,
to take leave of my hospitable landlord. On
the morning of Sept. 8th, when I was about
to depart, he presented me with his spear,
as a token of remembrance, and a leather
bag to contain my clothes. Having con-
verted my half boots into sandals, I travel-
led with more ease, and slept that night at
a village called Ballanti. On the 9th, I
reached Nemacoo; but the Mansa of the
village thought fit to make me sup upon
the camelion's dish. By way of apology,
however, he assured me the next morning,
that the scarcity of corn was such, that he
could not possibly allow me any. I could
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
373
not accuse him of unkindness, as all the
people actually appeared to be starving.
Sept. 10th. It rained hard all day, and
the people kept themselves in their huts,
In the afternoon, I was visited by a Negro,
named Modi Lemina Taura, a great trader,
who, suspecting my distress, brought me
some victuals; and promised to conduct me
to his house at Kinyeto the day following.
Sept. 11th. I departed from Nemacoo,
and arrived at Kinyeto in the evening; but
having hurt my ankle in the way, it swelled
and inflamed so much that I could neither
walk, nor set my foot to the ground, the
next day, without great pain. My landlord
observing this, kindly invited me to stop
with him a few days; and I accordingly
remained at his house until the 14th; by
which time I felt much relieved, and could
walk with the help of a staff. I now set
out, thanking my landlord for his great care
and attention; and being accompanied by
young man, who was travelling the same
way, I proceeded for Jerijang, a beautiful
and well cultivated district, the Mansa of
which is reckoned the most powerful chief
of any in Manding.
374
TRAVELS IN THE
}
On the 15th, I reached Dosita, a large
town, where I stayed one day on account of
the rain; but continued very sickly, and was
slightly delirious in the night. On the 17th,
I set out for Mansia, a considerable town,
where small quantities of gold are collected.
The road led over a high rocky hill, and my
strength and spirits were so much exhaust-
ed, that before I could reach the top of the
hill, I was forced to lie down three times,
being very faint and sickly. I reached Man-
sia in the afternoon. The Mansa of this
town had the character of being very in-
hospitable; he however, sent me a little corn
for my supper, but demanded something in
return; and when I assured him that I had
nothing of value in my possession, he told
me (as if in jest), that my white skin should
not defend me, if I told him lies. He then
shewed me the hut wherein I was to sleep;
but took away my spear, saying that it
should be returned to me in the morning.
This trifling circumstance, when joined to
the character I had heard of the man, made
me rather suspicious of him; and I privately
desired one of the inhabitants of the place,
who had a bow and quiver, to sleep in the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
375
same hut with me. About midnight, I
heard somebody approach the door, and
observing the moonlight strike suddenly
into the hut, I started up, and saw a man
stepping cautiously over the threshold. I
immediately snatched up the Negro's bow
and quiver, the rattling of which made the
man withdraw and my companion looking
out, assured me that it was the Mansa him-
self, and advised me to keep awake until
the morning. I closed the door, and placed
a large piece of wood behind it; and was
wondering at this unexpected visit, when
somebody pressed so hard against the door,
that the Negro could scarcely keep it shut.
But when I called to him to open the door,
the intruder ran off, as before.
Sept. 16th. As soon as it was light, the
Negro, at my request, went to the Mansa's
house and brought away my spear. He told
me that the Mansa was asleep, and lest this
inhospitable chief should devise means to
detain me, he advised me to set out before
he was awake; which I immediately did;
and about two o'clock reached Kamalia, a
small town, situated at the bottom of some
rocky hills, where the inhabitants collect
376
TRAVELS IN THE
gold in considerable quantities. The Bush-
reens here live apart from the Kafirs, and
have built their huts in a scattered manner,
at a short distance from the town. They
have a place set apart for performing their
devotions in, to which they give the name
of missura, or mosque; but it is in fact no-
thing more than a square piece of ground
made level, and surrounded with the trunks
of trees, having a small projection towards
the east, where the Marraboo, or priest,
stands, when he calls the people to prayers.
Mosques of this construction are very com-
mon among the converted Negroes; but
having neither walls nor roof, they can only
be used in fine weather. When it rains, the
Bushreens perform their devotions in their
huts.
On my arrival at Kamalia, I was con-
ducted to the house of a Bushreen named
Karfa Taura, the brother of him to whose
hospitality I was indebted at Kinyeto. He
was collecting a coffle of slaves, with a view
to sell them to the Europeans on the Gam-
bia, as soon as the rains should be over. I
found him sitting in his baloon surrounded
by several Slatees, who proposed to join the

JC. Barrow del, from a sketch by M Park.
A VIEW of KAMALIA.
Publipril Jan 1.1799, by G. Nicol Pall Mal
WC Wilson outp
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
377
coffle. He was reading to them from an
Arabic book; and inquired, with a smile, if
I understood it? Being answered in the
negative, he desired one of the Slatees to
fetch the little curious book, which had been
brought from the west country. On open-
ing this small volume, I was surprised and
delighted, to find it our Book of Common
Prayer; and Karfa expressed great joy to
hear that I could read it: for some of the
Slatees, who had seen the Europeans upon
the Coast, observing the colour of my skin
(which was now become very yellow from
sickness), my long beard, ragged clothes,
and extreme poverty; were unwilling to
admit that I was a white man, and told
Karfa, that they suspected I was some Arab
in disguise. Karfa, however, perceiving
that I could read this book had no doubt
concerning me; and kindly promised me
every assistance in his power. At the same
time he informed me, that it was impossible
to cross the Jallonka wilderness for many
months yet to come, as no less than eight
rapid rivers, he said, lay in the way. He
added, that he intended to set out himself
for Gambia as soon as the rivers were ford-
378
TRAVELS IN THE
able, and the grass burnt; and advised me
to stay and accompany him. He remarked,
that when a caravan of the natives could
not travel through the country, it was idle
for a single white man to attempt it. I
readily admitted that such an attempt was
an act of rashness, but I assured him that
I had now no alternative; for having no
money to support myself, I must either beg
my subsistence, by travelling from place to
place, or perish for want. Karfa now looked
at me with great earnestness, and inquired
if I could eat the common victuals of the
country; assuring me he had never before
seen a white man. He added, that if I
would remain with him until the rains were
over, he would give me plenty of victuals
in the meantime, and a hut to sleep in ;
and that after he had conducted me in safety
to the Gambia, I might then make him
what return I thought proper. I asked
him, if the value of one prime slave would
satisfy him. He answered in the affirma-
tive; and immediately ordered one of the
huts to be swept for my accommodation.
Thus was I delivered, by the friendly care
of this benevolent Negro, from a situation
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
379
truly deplorable. Distress and famine press-
ed hard upon me; I had, before me, the
gloomy wilds of Jallonkadoo, where the
traveller sees no habitation for five succes-
sive days. I had observed at a distance,
the rapid course of the river Kokoro. I had
almost marked out the place, where I was
doomed, I thought, to perish, when this
friendly Negro stretched out his hospitable
hand for my relief.
In the hut which was appropriated for
me, I was provided with a mat to sleep on,
an earthen jar for holding water, and a
small calabash to drink out of; and Karfa ·
sent me from his own dwelling, two meals
a day; and ordered his slaves to supply me
with fire-wood and water. But I found
that neither the kindness of Karfa, nor any
sort of accommodation, could put a stop to
the fever which weakened me, and which
became every day more alarming. I en-
deavoured as much as possible to conceal
my distress; but on the third day after my
arrival, as I was going with Karfa to visit
some of his friends, I found myself so faint
that I could scarcely walk, and before we
reached the place, I staggered, and fell into
380
TRAVELS IN THE
a pit from which the clay had been taken to
build one of the huts. Karfa endeavoured
to console me with the hopes of a speedy
recovery; assuring me, that if I would not
walk out in the wet, I should soon be well.
I determined to follow his advice, and con-
fine myself to my hut: but was still tor-
mented with the fever, and my health con-
tinued to be in a very precarious state, for
five ensuing weeks. Sometimes I could
crawl out of the hut, and sit a few hours in
the open air; at other times I was unable
to rise, and passed the lingering hours in a
very gloomy and solitary manner. I was
seldom visited by any person except my
benevolent landlord, who came daily to in-
quire after my health. When the rains be-
came less frequent, and the country began
to grow dry, the fever left me; but in so
debilitated a condition, that I could scarcely
stand upright, and it was with great diffi-
culty that I could carry my mat to the
shade of a tamarind tree, at a short distance,
to enjoy the refreshing smell of the corn-
fields, and delight my eyes with a prospect
of the country. I had the pleasure, at length,
to find myself in a state of convalescence;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
381
towards which the benevolent and simple
manners of the Negroes, and the peru-
sal of Karfa's little volume, greatly con-
tributed.
In the meantime, many of the Slatees
who resided at Kamalia, having spent all
their money, and become in a great mea-
sure dependent upon Karfa's hospitality,
beheld me with an eye of envy, and in-
vented many ridiculous and trifling stories
to lessen me in Karfa's esteem. And in
the beginning of December, a Sera-Woolli
Slatee, with five slaves, arrived from Sego:
this man too, spread a number of malicious
reports concerning me; but Karfa paid no
attention to them, and continued to shew
me the same kindness as formerly. As I
was one day conversing with the slaves.
which this Slatee had brought, one of them
begged me to give him some victuals. I
told him I was a stranger, and had none to
give. He replied, "I gave you victuals
"when you was hungry. Have you forgot
"the man who brought you milk at Kar-
"rankalla? But (added he, with a sigh)
"the irons were not then upon my legs!" I
เ
382
TRAVELS IN THE
1
immediately recollected him, and begged
some ground nuts from Karfa to give him,
as a return for his former kindness. He
told me that he had been taken by the
Bambarrans, the day after the battle at
Joka, and sent to Sego; where he had been
purchased by his present master, who was
carrying him down to Kajaaga. Three more
of these slaves were from Kaarta, and one
from Wassela, all of them prisoners of war.
They stopped four days at Kamalia, and
were then taken to Bala, where they remain-
ed until the river Kokoro was fordable, and
the grass burnt.
In the beginning of December Karfa pro-
posed to complete his purchase of slaves;
and for this purpose, collected all the debts
which were owing to him in his own coun-
try. And on the 19th, being accompanied
by three Slatees, he departed for Kancaba,
a large town on the banks of the Niger;
and a great slave-market. Most of the
slaves, who are sold at Kancaba, come from
Bambarra; for Mansong, to avoid the ex-
pence and danger of keeping all his pri-
soners at Sego, commonly sends them in
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
383
small parties, to be sold at the different
trading towns; and as Kancaba is much
resorted to by merchants, it is always well
supplied with slaves, which are sent thither
up the Niger in canoes. When Karfa de-
parted from Kamalia, he proposed to return
in the course of a month; and during his
absence I was left to the care of a good old
Bushreen, who acted as schoolmaster to the
young people of Kamalia.
Being now left alone, and at leisure to
indulge my own reflections; it was an op-
portunity not to be neglected of augment-
ing and extending the observations I had
already made, on the climate and produc-
tions of the country; and of acquiring a
more perfect knowledge of the natives,
than it was possible for me to obtain in the
course of a transient and perilous journey
through the country. I endeavoured like-
wise to collect all the information I could,
concerning those important branches of
African commerce, the trade for gold, ivory,
and slaves. Such was my employment, du-
ring the remainder of my stay at Kamalia;
and I shall now proceed to lay before my
384
TRAVELS IN THE
1
t
readers the result of my researches and
inquiries; avoiding, as far as I can, a repe-
tition of those circumstances and observa-
tions, which were related, as occasion arose,
in the narrative of my journey.
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
385
1
CHAPTER XX.
Of the Climate and Seasons. -Winds.
Vegetable Productions. Population.-
General Observations on the Character and
Disposition of the Mandingoes; and a
summary Account of their Manners and
Habits of Life, their Marriages, &c.
THE whole of my route, both in going and
returning, having been confined to a tract
of country bounded nearly by the 12th and
15th parallels of latitude, the reader must
imagine that I found the climate in most
places extremely hot; but no where did I
feel the heat so intense and oppressive as
in the Camp at Benown, of which mention
has been made in a former place. In some
parts, where the country ascends into hills,
the air is at all times comparatively cool;
yet none of the districts which I traversed,
could properly be called mountainous.
About the middle of June, the hot and
Cc
386
TRAVELS IN THE
sultry atmosphere is agitated by violent
gusts of wind (called tornadoes), accom-
panied with thunder and rain.
rain. These
usher in what is denominated the rainy
season; which continues until the month
of November. During this time, the diur-
nal rains are very heavy; and the prevail-
ing winds are from the south-west. The
termination of the rainy season, is like-
wise attended with violent tornadoes; after
which the wind shifts to the north-east,
and continues to blow from that quarter,
during the rest of the year.
When the wind sets in from the north-
east, it produces a wonderful change in the
face of the country. The grass soon be-
comes dry and withered; the rivers sub-
side very rapidly, and many of the trees
shed their leaves. About this period is
commonly felt the harmatton, a dry and
parching wind, blowing from the north-
east, and accompanied by a thick smoky
haze; through which the sun appears of
a dull red colour. This wind, in passing
over the great desert of Sahara, acquires
a very strong attraction for humidity, and
parches up every thing exposed to its
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
387
current. It is, however, reckoned very
salutary, particularly to Europeans, who
generally recover their health during its
continuance. I experienced immediate
relief from sickness, both at Dr. Laid-
ley's, and at Kamalia, during the harmat-
tan. Indeed, the air, during the rainy sea-
son is so loaded with moisture, that clothes,
shoes, trunks, and every thing that is not
close to the fire, become damp and mouldy;
and the inhabitants may be said to live in
a sort of vapour bath: but this dry wind
braces up
the solids, which were before re-
laxed, gives a cheerful flow of spirits, and
is even pleasant to respiration. Its ill ef-
fects are, that it produces chaps in the lips,
and afflicts many of the natives with sore
eyes.
Whenever the grass is sufficiently dry,
the Negroes set it on fire; but in Luda-
mar, and other Moorish countries, this
practice is not allowed; for it is upon the
withered stubble that the Moors feed their
cattle, until the return of the rains. The
burning the grass in Manding exhibits a
scene of terrific grandeur. In the middle
of the night, I could see the plains and
Cc 2
888
TRAVELS IN THE
mountains, as far as my eye could reach,
variegated with lines of fire; and the
light reflected on the sky, made the hea-
vens appear in a blaze. In the day time, pil-
lars of smoke were seen in every direction;
while the birds of prey were observed ho-
vering round the conflagration, and pounc-
ing down upon the snakes, lizards, and
other reptiles, which attempted to escape
from the flames. This annual burning
is soon followed by a fresh and sweet ver-
dure, and the country is thereby rendered
more healthful and pleasant.
Of the most remarkable and important
of the vegetable productions, mention has
already been made; and they are nearly
the same in all the districts through which
I passed. It is observable, however, that
although many species of the edible roots,
which grow in the West India Islands, are
found in Africa, yet I never saw, in any
part of my journey, either the sugar-cane,
the coffee, or the cocoa tree; nor could I
learn, on inquiry, that they were known to
the natives. The pine-apple, and the thou-
sand other delicious fruits, which the indus-
try of civilized man (improving the bounties
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
389
of nature), has brought to such great perfec-
tion in the tropical climates of America, are
here equally unknown. I observed, indeed,
a few orange and banana trees, near the
mouth of the Gambia; but whether they
were indigenous, or were formerly planted
there by some of the white traders, I could
not positively learn. I suspect that they were
originally introduced by the Portuguese.
Concerning property in the soil; it ap-
peared to me that the lands in native woods,
were considered as belonging to the king,
or (where the government was not monar-
chical) to the state. When any individual
of free condition, had the means of culti-
vating more land than he actually. pos-
sessed, he applied to the chief man of the
district, who allowed him an extension of
territory, on condition of forfeiture if the
lands were not brought into cultivation by
a given period. The condition being ful-
filled, the soil became vested in the pos-
sessor; and, for aught' that appeared to
me, descended to his heirs.
The population, however, considering
the extent and fertility of the soil, and the
ease with which lands are obtained, is not
May
390
TRAVELS IN THE
very great, in the countries which I visited.
I found many extensive and beautiful dis-
tricts, entirely destitute of inhabitants; and
in general, the borders of the different
kingdoms, were either very thinly peopled,
or entirely deserted. Many places are like-
wise unfavourable to population, from be-
ing unhealthful. The swampy banks of
the Gambia, the Senegal, and other rivers
towards the Coast, are of this description.
Perhaps, it is on this account chiefly, that
the interior countries abound more with
inhabitants, than the maritime districts;
for all the Negro nations that fell under
my observation, though divided into a
number of petty independent states, sub-
sist chiefly by the same means, live nearly
in the same temperature, and possess a
wonderful similarity of disposition. The
Mandingoes, in particular, are a very
gentle race; cheerful in their dispositions,
inquisitive, credulous, simple, and fond of
flattery. Perhaps, the most prominent de-
fect in their character, was that insurmount-
able propensity, which the reader must have
observed to prevail in all classes of them, to
steal from me the few effects I was possessed
t
}
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
391
of. For this part of their conduct, no com-
plete justification can be offered, because
theft is a crime in their own estimation;
and it must be observed, that they are not
habitually and generally guilty of it towards
each other. This, however, is an important
circumstance in mitigation; and, before we
pronounce them a more depraved people
than any other, it were well to consider
whether the lower order of people in any
part of Europe, would have acted, under
similar circumstances, with greater honesty
towards a stranger, than the Negroes acted
towards me. It must not be forgotten, that
the laws of the country afforded me no pro-
tection; that every one was at liberty to rob
me with impunity; and finally, that some
part of my effects were of as great value.
in the estimation of the Negroes, as pearls
and diamonds would have been in the eyes
of a European. Let us suppose, a black
merchant of Hindostan to have found his
way into the centre of England, with a box
of jewels at his back; and that the laws of
the kingdom afforded him no security; in
such a case, the wonder would be, not that
the stranger was robbed of any part of his
392
TRAVELS IN THE
riches, but that any part was left for a second
depredator. Such, on sober reflection, is the
judgment I have formed concering the pil-
fering disposition of the Mandingo Negroes
towards myself. Notwithstanding I was
so great a sufferer by it, I do not consider
that their natural sense of justice was per-
verted or extinguished: it was overpowered
only, for the moment, by the strength of a
temptation which it required no common
virtue to resist.
On the other hand, as some counterba-
lance to this depravity in their nature,
allowing it to be such, it is impossible for
me to forget the disinterested charity, and
tender solicitude, with which many of these
poor heathens (from the sovereign of Sego,
to the poor women who received me at dif-
ferent times into their cottages, when I was
perishing of hunger) sympathized with me
in my sufferings; relieved my distresses
and contributed to my safety. This ac-
knowledgment, however, is perhaps more
particularly due to the female part of the
nation. Among the men, as the reader
must have seen, my reception, though ge-
nerally kind, was sometimes otherwise. It
;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
393
varied according to the various tempers
of those to whom I made application.
The hardness of avarice in some, and
the blindness of bigotry in others, had
closed up the avenues to compassion:
but I do not recollect a single instance of
hardheartedness towards me in the wo-
men. In all my wanderings and wretch-
edness, I found them uniformly kind and
compassionate; and I can truly say, as my
predecessor Mr. Ledyard, has eloquently
said before me; "To a woman, I never
"addressed myself in the language of de-
66 cency and friendship, without receiving
"a decent and friendly answer. If I was
hungry, or thirsty, wet, or sick, they did
"not hesitate, like the men, to perform a
66
66.
(6
· generous action. In so free, and so kind
a manner did they contribute to my relief;
"that if I was dry, I drank the sweetest
draught, and if hungry, I eat the coarsest
morsel with a double relish."
66
It is surely reasonable to suppose, that
the soft and amiable sympathy of nature,
which was thus spontaneously manifested
towards me, in my distress, is displayed by
these poor people as occasion requires, much
more strongly towards persons of their own
394
TRAVELS IN THE
nation and neighbourhood, and especially
when the objects of their compassion are
endeared to them by the ties of consan-
guinity. Accordingly, the maternal affec-
tion (neither suppressed by the restraints,
nor diverted by the solicitudes of civilized
life) is every where conspicuous among
them; and creates a correspondent return
of tenderness in the child. An illustration
of this has been given in p. 69.
"Strike
me," said my attendant," but do not curse
my mother." The same sentiment I found
universally to prevail, and observed in all
parts of Africa, that the greatest affront
which could be offered to a Negro, was to
reflect on her who gave him birth.
It is not strange, that this sense of filial
duty and affection among the Negroes,
should be less ardent towards the father
than the mother. The system of polygamy,
while it weakens the father's attachment,
by dividing it among the children of diffe-
rent wives, concentrates all the mother's
jealous tenderness to one point, the protec-
tion of her own offspring. I perceived with
great satisfaction too, that the maternal so-
licitude extended not only to the growth
and security of the person, but also, in a
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
395
}
certain degree, to the improvement of the
mind of the infant; for one of the first
lessons in which the Mandingo women in-
struct their children, is the practice of truth.
The reader will probably recollect the case
of the unhappy mother, whose son was mur-
dered by the Moorish banditti, at Funing-
kedy, p. 153. Her only consolation, in her
uttermost distress, was the reflection that
the poor boy, in the course of his blameless
life, had never told a lie. Such testimony,
from a fond mother, on such an occasion,
must have operated powerfully on the youth-
ful part of the surrounding spectators. It
was at once a tribute of praise to the de-
ceased, and a lesson to the living.
The Negro women suckle their children,
until they are able to walk of themselves.
Three years
years nursing is not uncommon; and
during this period the husband devotes his
whole attention to his other wives. To this
practice it is owing, I presume, that the fa-
mily of each wife is seldom very numerous,
Few women have more than five or six chil-
dren. As soon as an infant is able to walk,
it is permitted to run about with great free-
dom. The mother is not over solicitous to
396
TRAVELS IN THE
preserve it from slight falls, and other
trifling accidents. A little practice soon
enables the child to take care of itself, and
experience acts the part of a nurse. As
they advance in life, the girls are taught to
spin cotton, and to beat corn, and are in-
structed in other domestic duties; and the
boys are employed in the labours of the
field. Both sexes, whether Bushreens or
Kafirs, on attaining the age of puberty, are
circumcised. This painful operation is not
considered by the Kafirs, so much in the
light of a religious ceremony, as a matter
of convenience and utility. They have, in-
deed, a superstitious notion that it contri-
butes to render the marriage state prolific.
The operation is performed upon several
young people at the same time; all of whom
are exempted from every sort of labour, for
two months afterwards. During this period,
they form a society called Solimana. They
visit the towns and villages in the neigh-
bourhood, where they dance and sing, and
are well treated by the inhabitants. I had
frequently, in the course of my journey,
observed parties of this description, but
they were all males. I had, however, an
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
397
opportunity of seeing a female Solimana, at
Kamalia.
In the course of the celebration, it fre-
quently happens that some of the young
women get married. If a man takes a fancy
to any one of them, it is not considered as
absolutely necessary, that he should make
an overture to the girl herself. The first
object is to agree with the parents, concern-
ing the recompence to be given them, for
the loss of the company and services of
their daughter. The value of two slaves is
a common price, unless the girl is thought
very handsome; in which case, the parents
will raise their demand very considerably.
If the lover is rich enough, and willing to
give the sum demanded, he then communi-
cates his wishes to the damsel; but her con-
sent is by no means necessary to the match;
for if the parents agree to it, and eat a few
kolla-nuts, which are presented by the suitor
as an earnest of the bargain, the young lady
must either have the man of their choice,
or continue unmarried, for she cannot after-
wards be given to another. If the parents
should attempt it, the lover is then autho-
rized, by the laws of the country, to seize
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TRAVELS IN THE
upon the girl as his slave. When the day
for celebrating the nuptials is fixed on, a
select number of people are invited to be
present at the wedding: a bullock or goat
is killed, and great plenty of victuals dressed
for the occasion. As soon as it is dark, the
bride is conducted into a hut, where a com-
pany of matrons assist in arranging the
wedding dress, which is always white cot-
ton, and is put on in such a manner as to
conceal the bride from head to foot. Thus
arrayed, she is seated upon a mat, in the
middle of the floor, and the old women place
themselves in a circle round her. They then
give her a series of instructions, and point
out, with great propriety, what ought to be
her future conduct in life. This scene of
instruction, however, is frequently inter-
rupted by girls, who amuse the company
with songs and dances, which are rather
more remarkable for their gaiety than deli-
cacy. While the bride remains within the
hut with the women, the bridegroom de-
votes his attention to the guests of both
sexes, who assemble without doors, and by
distributing among them small presents of
kolla-nuts, and seeing that every one par-
L
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
399
takes of the good cheer which is provided,
he contributes much to the general hilarity
of the evening. When supper is ended, the
company spend the remainder of the night
in singing and dancing, and seldom separate
until daybreak. About midnight, the bride
is privately conducted by the women into
the hut which is to be her future residence;
and the bridegroom, upon a signal given,
retires from his company. The new married
couple, however, are always disturbed to-
wards morning by the women, who assem-
ble to inspect the nuptial sheet (according
to the manners of the ancient Hebrews, as
recorded in Scripture), and dance round it.
This ceremony is thought indispensably
necessary, nor is the marriage considered
as valid without it.
The Negroes, as hath been frequently
observed, whether Mahomedan or Pagan,
allow a plurality of wives. The Mahome-
dans alone, are by their religion confined to
four; and as the husband commonly pays a
great price for each, he requires from all of
them the utmost deference and submission,
and treats them more like hired servants,
than companions. They have, however, the
1
400
TRAVELS IN THE
management of domestic affairs, and each
in rotation is mistress of the household, and
has the care of dressing the victuals, over-
looking the female slaves, &c. But though
the African husbands are possessed of great
authority over their wives, I did not observe,
that in general they treat them with cruelty;
neither did I perceive that mean jealousy
in their dispositions, which is so prevalent
among the Moors. They permit their wives
to partake of all public diversions, and this
indulgence is seldom abused; for though the
Negro women are very cheerful and frank
in their behaviour, they are by no means
given to intrigue: I believe that instances
of conjugal infidelity are not common.
When the wives quarrel among themselves,
a circumstance which, from the nature of
their situation, must frequently happen, the
husband decides between them: and some-
times finds it necessary to administer a little
corporal chastisement, before tranquillity
can be restored. But if any one of the la-
dies complains to the chief of the town, that
her husband has unjustly punished her, and
shewn an undue partiality to some other of
his wives, the affair is brought to a public
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
401
trial. In these palavers, however, which are
conducted chiefly by married men, I was
informed that the complaint of the wife, is
not always considered in a very serious
light; and the complainant herself, is some-
times convicted of strife and contention,
and left without remedy. If she murmurs
at the decision of the court, the magic rod
of Mumbo Jumbo soon puts an end to the
business.
The children of the Mandingoes are not
always named after their relations; but
frequently in consequence of some remark-
able occurrence. Thus, my landlord at
Kamalia, was called Karfa, a word signi-
fying to replace; because he was born short-
ly after the death of one of his brothers.
Other names are descriptive of gooi or bad
qualities; as Modi," a good man;" Fadibba,
"father of the town," &c.: indeed the very
names of their towns have something de-
scriptive in them; as Sibidoolso, "the town
of ciboa trees;" Kenneyetoo, "victuals here;"
Dosita," lift your spoon." Others seem to
be given by way of reproach, as Bammakoo,
"wash a crocodile ;" Karrankalla, "no cup
to drink from, &c." A child is named, when
D d
402
TRAVELS IN THE
it is seven or eight days old. The ceremony
commences by shaving the infant's head;
and a dish called Dega, made of pounded
corn and sour milk, is prepared for the
guests. If the parents are rich, a sheep or
a goat is commonly added. The feast is
called Ding koon lee, "the child's head
shaving." During my stay at Kamalia, I
was present at four different feasts of this
kind, and the ceremony was the same in
each, whether the child belonged to a Bush-
reen or a Kafir. The schoolmaster, who
officiated as priest on those occasions, and
who is necessarily a Bushreen, first said a
long prayer over the dega; during which
every person present took hold of the brim
of the calabash with his right hand. After
this, the schoolmaster took the child in his
arms, and said a second prayer; in which
he repeatedly solicited the blessing of God
upon the child, and upon all the company.
When this prayer was ended, he whispered
a few sentences in the child's ear, and spit
three times in its face; after which he pro-
nounced its name aloud, and returned the
infant to the mother. This part of the cere-
mony being ended, the father of the child
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
403
divided the dega into a number of balls, one
of which he distributed to every person pre-
sent. And inquiry was then made, if any
person in the town was dangerously sick,
it being usual, in such cases, to send the
party a large portion of the dega; which is
thought to possses great medical virtues.*
Among the Negroes every individual,
besides his own proper name, has likewise
a kontong, or surname, to denote the family
or clan to which he belongs. Some of these
families are very numerous and powerful.
It is impossible to enumerate the various
kontongs which are found in different parts
of the country; though the knowledge of
many of them is of great service to the tra-
veller; for as every Negro plumes himself
upon the importance, or the antiquity of his
clan, he is much flattered when he is ad-
dressed by his kontong.
Salutations, among the Negroes to each
other, when they meet, are always observ-
ed; but those in most general use among
the Kafirs, are Abbe haeretto-E ning seni,
* Soon after baptism, the children are marked in dif-
ferent
parts of the skin, in a manner resembling what is
called tattowing in the South-sea Islands.
Dd 2
404
TRAVELS IN THE
!
Anawari, &c. all of which have nearly
the same meaning, and signify, are you well,
or to that effect. There are likewise salu-
tations which are used at different times of
the day, as E ning somo, good morning, &c.
The general answer to all salutations, is to
repeat the kontong of the person who salutes,
or else to repeat the salutation itself, first
pronouncing the word marhaba, my friend.
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
405
CHAPTER XXI.
The Account of the Mandingoes continued.-
Their Notions in respect of the Planetary
Bodies, and the Figure of the Earth.-
Their religious Opinions, and Belief in a
Future State.-Their Diseases and Me-
thods of Treatment.-Their Funeral Cere-
monies, Amusements, Occupations, Diet,
Arts, Manufactures, &c.
THE Mandingoes, and I believe the Ne-
groes in general, have no artificial method
of dividing time. They calculate the years
by the number of rainy seasons. They por-
tion the year into moons, and reckon the
days by so many suns. The day, they di-
vide into morning, mid-day, and evening;
and further subdivide it, when necessary,
by pointing to the sun's place in the Hea-
vens. I frequently inquired of some of them,
what became of the sun during the night,
and whether we should see the same sun,
or a different one, in the morning: but I
}
406
TRAVELS IN THE
found that they considered the question
as very childish. The subject appeared to
them, as placed beyond the reach of human
investigation: they had never indulged a
conjecture, nor formed any hypothesis about
the matter. The moon, by varying her
form, has more attracted their attention.
On the first appearance of the new moon,
which they look upon to be newly created,
the Pagan natives, as well as Mahomedans,
say a short prayer; and this seems to be the
only visible adoration which the Kafirs offer
up to the Supreme Being. This prayer is
pronounced in a whisper; the party hold-
ing up his hands before his face: its purport
(as I have been assured by many different
people) is to return thanks to God for his
kindness through the existence of the past
moon, and to solicit a continuation of his
favour during that of the new one. At the
conclusion, they spit upon their hands,
and rub them over their faces. This seems
to be nearly the same ceremony, which
prevailed among the Heathens in the days
of Job.*
Great attention, however, is paid to the
* Chap. xxxi. ver. 26, 27, 28.
$
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
407
changes of this luminary, in its monthly
course; and it is thought very unlucky to
begin a journey, or any other work of con-
sequence, in the last quarter. An eclipse,
whether of the sun or moon, is supposed to
be effected by witchcraft. The stars are
very little regarded; and the whole study of
astronomy appears to them as a useless pur-
suit, and attended to by such persons only
as deal in magic.
Their notions of geography, are equally
puerile. They imagine that the world is
an extended plain, the termination of which
no eye has discovered; it being, they say,
overhung with clouds and darkness. They
describe the sea as a large river of salt water,
on the farther shore of which is situated a
country called Tobaubo doo; "the land of
the white people." At a distance from To-
baubo doo, they describe another country,
which they allege is inhabited by canni-
bals of gigantic size, called Koomi. This
country they call Jong sang doo," the land
"where the slaves are sold." But of all
countries in the world their own appears to
them as the best, and their own people as
the happiest; and they pity the fate of other
408
TRAVELS IN THE
nations who have been placed by Providence
in less fertile and less fortunate districts.
Some of the religious opinions of the
Negroes, though blended with the weakest
credulity and superstition, are not unworthy
attention. I have conversed with all ranks
and conditions, upon the subject of their
faith, and can pronounce, without the small-
est shadow of doubt, that the belief of one
God, and of a future state of reward and
punishment, is entire and universal among
them. It is remarkable, however, that, ex-
cept on the appearance of a new moon, as
before related, the Pagan natives do not
think it necessary to offer up prayers and
supplications to the Almighty. They repre-
sent the Deity, indeed, as the creator and
preserver of all things; but in general they
consider him as a Being so remote, and of
so exalted a nature, that it is idle to imagine
the feeble supplications of wretched mortals
can reverse the decrees, and change the
purposes of unerring Wisdom. If they are
asked, for what reason then do they offer
up a prayer on the appearance of the new
moon; the answer is, that custom has made
it necessary: they do it, because their fathers
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
409
did it before them. Such is the blindness
of unassisted nature! The concerns of this
world they believe, are committed by the
Almighty to the superintendance and direc-
tion of subordinate spirits, over whom they
suppose that certain magical ceremonies
have great influence. A white fowl, sus-
pended to the branch of a particular tree;
a snake's head, or a few handfuls of fruit,
are offerings which ignorance and supersti-
tion frequently present, to deprecate the
wrath, or to conciliate the favour, of these
tutelary agents. But it is not often that
the Negroes make their religious opinions
the subject of conversation: when interro-
gated, in particular, concerning their ideas
of a future state, they express themselves
with great reverence, but endeavour to
shorten the discussion by observing-mo o
mo inta allo, "no man knows any thing
about it." They are content, they say, tɔ
follow the precepts and examples of their
forefathers, through the various vicissitudes
of life; and when this world presents no
objects of enjoyment or comfort, they seem
to look with anxiety towards another, which
they believe will be better suited to their
410
TRAVELS IN THE
natures; but concerning which they are.
far from indulging vain and delusive con-
jectures.
The Mandingoes seldom attain extreme
old age. At forty, most of them become
gray haired, and covered with wrinkles;
and but few of them survive the age of fifty-
five, or sixty. They calculate the years of
their lives, as I have already observed, by
the number of rainy seasons (there being
but one such in the year); and distinguish
each year by a particular name, founded on
some remarkable occurrence which hap-
pened in that year. Thus they say the year
of the Farbanna war; the year of the Kaarta
war; the year on which Gadou was plun-
dered, &c. &c.; and I have no doubt that
the year 1796, will in many places be dis-
tinguished by the name of Tobaubo tambi
sang,
"the year the white man passed;" as
such an occurrence would naturally form
an epoch in their traditional history.
But notwithstanding that longevity is
uncommon among them, it appeared to me,
that their diseases are but few in number.
Their simple diet, and active way of life,
preserve them from many of those disorders,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
411
which embitter the days of luxury and idle-
ness. Fevers and fluxes are the most com-
mon, and the most fatal. For these, they
generally apply saphies to different parts of
the body, and perform a great many other
superstitious ceremonies; some of which
are, indeed, well calculated to inspire the
patient with the hope of recovery, and divert
his mind from brooding over his own dan-
ger. But I have sometimes observed among
them, a more systematic mode of treatment.
On the first attack of a fever, when the pa-
tient complains of cold, he is frequently
placed in a sort of vapour bath: this is done
by spreading branches of the nauclea orien-
talis upon hot wood embers, and laying the
patient upon them, wrapped up in a large
cotton cloth. Water is then sprinkled upon
the branches, which descending to the hot
embers, soon covers the patient with a cloud
of vapour, in which he is allowed to remain
until the embers are almost extinguished.
This practice commonly produces a profuse
perspiration, and wonderfully relieves the
sufferer.
For the dysentery, they use the bark of
different trees reduced to powder, and mixed
*
412
TRAVELS IN THE
with the patient's food; but this practice is
in general very unsuccessful.
The other diseases which prevail among
the Negroes, are the yaws; the elephantiasis;
and a leprosy of the very worst kind. This
last mentioned complaint appears, at the
beginning, in scurfy spots upon different
parts of the body; which finally settle upon
the hands or feet, where the skin becomes
withered, and cracks in many places. At
length, the ends of the fingers swell and
ulcerate; the discharge is acrid and fetid;
the nails drop off, and the bones of the fin-
gers become carious, and separate at the
joints. In this manner the disease continues
to spread, frequently until the patient loses
all his fingers and toes. Even the hands
and feet are sometimes destroyed by this
inveterate malady, to which the Negroes
give the name of balla jou,“ incurable.”
The Guinea worm is likewise very com-
mon in certain places, especially at the
commencement of the rainy season. The
Negroes attribute this disease, which has
been described by many writers, to bad
water; and allege that the people who
drink from wells, are more subject to it
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
413
than those who drink from streams. To
the same cause, they attribute the swelling
of the glands of the neck (goitres), which
are very common in some parts of Bam-
barra. I observed also, in the interior coun-
tries, a few instances of simple gonorrhoea ;
but never the confirmed lues. On the
whole, it appeared to me that the Negroes
are better surgeons than physicians. I found
them very successful in their management
of fractures and dislocations, and their
splints and bandages are simple, and easily
removed. The patient is laid upon a soft
mat, and the fractured limb is frequently
bathed with cold water. All abscesses they
open with the actual cautery; and the dress-
ings are composed of either soft leaves, Shea
butter, or cows' dung, as the case seems, in
their judgment, to require. Towards the
Coast, where a supply of European lancets
can be procured, they sometimes perform
phlebotomy; and in cases of local inflam-
mation, a curious sort of cupping is prac-
tised. This operation is performed by
making incisions in the part, and applying
to it a bullock's horn, with a small hole in
the end. The operator then takes a piece
414
TRAVELS IN THE
of bees-wax in his mouth, and putting his
lips to the hole, extracts the air from the
horn; and by a dexterous use of his tongue,
stops up the hole with the wax. This me-
thod is found to answer the purpose, and in
general produces a plentiful discharge.
When a person of consequence dies, the
relations and neighbours meet together,
and manifest their sorrow by loud and dismal
howlings. A bullock or goat is killed for
such persons as come to assist at the fune-
ral; which generally takes place in the
evening of the same day on which the party
died. The Negroes have no appropriate
burial places, and frequently dig the grave
in the floor of the deceased's hut, or in the
shade of a favourite tree. The body is dress-
ed in white cotton, and wrapped up in a
mat. It is carried to the grave, in the dusk
of the evening, by the relations. If the
grave is without the walls of the town, a
number of prickly bushes are laid upon it,
to prevent the wolves from digging up the
body; but I never observed that any stone
was placed over the grave, as a monument
or memorial.
Hitherto I have considered the Negroes
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
415
chiefly in a moral light; and confined my-
self to the most prominent features in their
mental character: their domestic amuse-
ments, occupations, and diet; their arts and
manufactures, with some other subordinate
objects, are now to be noticed.
Of their music and dances, some account
has incidentally been given in different
parts of my Journal. On the first of these
heads, I have now to add a list of their
musical instruments, the principal of which
are, the koonting, a sort of guitar with
three strings;—the korro, a large harp, with
eighteen strings;-the simbing, a small
harp, with seven strings;—the balafou, an
instrument composed of twenty pieces of
hard wood of different lengths, with the
shells of gourds hung underneath, to in-
crease the sound;—the tangtang, a drum,
open at the lower end; and lastly, the tabala,
a large drum, commonly used to spread an
aların through the country. Besides these,
they make use of small flutes, bowstrings,
elephants' teeth, and bells; and at all their
dances and concerts, clapping of hands ap-
pears to constitute a necessary part of the
chorus.
416
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1
With the love of music is naturally con-
nected a taste for poetry; and, fortunately
for the poets of Africa, they are in a great
measure exempted from that neglect and
indigence, which in more polished coun-
tries commonly attend the votaries of the
Muses. They consist of two classes; the
most numerous are the singing men, called
Filli kea, mentioned in a former part of my
narrative. One or more of these may be
found in every town. They sing extem-
pore songs, in honour of their chief men, or
any other persons who are willing to give
"solid pudding for empty praise.” But a
nobler part of their office is to recite the
historical events of their country: hence, in
war, they accompany the soldiers to the
field; in order, by reciting the great actions
of their ancestors, to awaken in them a
spirit of glorious emulation. The other
class are devotees of the Mahomedan faith,
who travel about the country, singing
devout hymns, and performing religious
ceremonies, to conciliate the favour of the
Almighty; either in averting calamity, or
insuring success to any enterprize. Both
descriptions of these itinerant bards are
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
417
much employed and respected by the people,
and very liberal contributions are made for
them.
The usual diet of the Negroes is some-
what different in different districts; in ge-
neral, the people of free condition breakfast
about daybreak, upon gruel made of meal
and water, with a little of the fruit of the
tamarind, to give it an acid taste. About
two o'clock in the afternoon, a sort of hasty
pudding, with a little Shea butter, is the
common meal; but the supper constitutes
the principal repast, and is seldom ready
before midnight. This consists almost uni-
versally of kouskous, with a small portion
of animal food, or Shea butter, mixed with
it. In eating, the Kafirs, as well as Maho-
medans, use the right hand only.
The beverage of the Pagan Negroes, are
beer and mead; of each of which they fre-
quently drink to excess. The Mahomedan
converts drink nothing but water. The
natives of all descriptions take snuff, and
smoke tobacco; their pipes are made of
wood, with an earthen bowl of curious
workmanship. But in the interior coun-
tries, the greatest of all luxuries is salt. It
Ee
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TRAVELS IN THE
would appear strange to an European, to
see a child suck a piece of rock-salt, as if
it were sugar. This, however, I have fre-
quently seen; although, in the inland parts,
the poorer class of inhabitants are so very
rarely indulged with this precious article,
that to say a man eats salt with his victuals,
is the same as saying, he is a rich man. I
have myself suffered great inconvenience
from the scarcity of this article. The long
use of vegetable food, creates so painful a
longing for salt, that no words can suf-
ficiently describe it.
The Negroes in general, and the Man-
dingoes in particular, are considered by
the whites on the Coast as an indolent and
inactive people; I think, without reason.
The nature of the climate is, indeed, unfa-
vourable to great exertion; but surely a
people cannot justly be denominated habi-
tually indolent, whose wants are supplied,
not by the spontaneous productions of na-
ture, but by their own exertions. Few
people work harder, when occasion re-
quires, than the Mandingoes; but not
having many opportunities of turning to
advantage the superfluous produce of their
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
419
335
labour, they are content with cultivating as
much ground only, as is necessary for their
own support. The labours of the field give
them pretty full employment during the
rains; and in the dry season, the people
who live in the vicinity of large rivers, em-
ploy themselves chiefly in fishing. The
fish are taken in wicker baskets, or with
small cotton nets; and are preserved by
being first dried in the sun, and after-
wards rubbed with Shea butter, to pre-
vent them from contracting fresh mois-
ture. Others of the natives employ them-
selves in hunting. Their weapons are bows
and arrows; but the arrows in common use
are not poisoned.* They are very dexte-
rous marksmen, and will hit a lizard on a
The
* Poisoned arrows are used chiefly in war.
poison, which is said to be very deadly, is prepared
from a shrub called koona (a species of echites), which
is very common in the woods. The leaves of this
shrub, when boiled with a small quantity of water,
yield a thick black juice, into which the Negroes dip
a cotton thread; this thread they fasten round the
iron of the arrow, in such a manner that it is almost
impossible to extract the arrow, when it has sunk be-
yond the barbs, without leaving the iron point, and
the poisoned thread, in the wound.
•
E e 2
420
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tree, or any other small object, at an amaz-
ing distance. They likewise kill Guinea-
fowls, partridges, and pigeons, but never
on the wing. While the men are occupied
in these pursuits, the women are very dili-
gent in manufacturing cotton cloth. They
prepare the cotton for spinning, by laying
it in small quantities at a time, upon a
smooth stone, or piece of wood, and roll-
ing the seeds out with a thick iron spindle;
and they spin it with the distaff. The
thread is not fine, but well twisted, and
makes a very durable cloth. A woman,
with common diligence, will spin from six
to nine garments of this cloth in one year;
which, according to its fineness, will sell
for a minkalli and a half, or two minkallies
each.** The weaving is performed by the
men. The loom is made exactly upon the
same principle as that of Europe; but so
small and narrow, that the web is seldom
more than four inches broad. The shuttle
is of the common construction: but as the
thread is coarse, the chamber is somewhat
larger than the European.
* A minkalli is a quantity of gold, nearly equal in
value to ten shillings sterling.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
421
The women die this cloth of a rich and
lasting blue colour, by the following simple
process the leaves of the indigo when
fresh gathered, are pounded in a wooden
mortar, and mixed in a large earthen jar,
with a strong ley of wood ashes; chamber-
ley is sometimes added. The cloth is steeped
in this mixture, and allowed to remain until
it has acquired the proper shade. In Kaarta
and Ludamar, where the indigo is not plen-
tiful, they collect the leaves, and dry them
in the sun; and when they wish to use.
them, they reduce a sufficient quantity to
powder, and mix it with the ley as before
mentioned. Either way, the colour is very
beautiful, with a fine purple gloss; and
equal, in my opinion, to the best Indian or
European blue. This cloth is cut into va-
rious pieces, and sewed into garments, with
needles of the natives' own making.
As the arts of weaving, dying, sewing,
&c. may easily be acquired, those who ex-
ercise them are not considered in Africa as
following any particular profession; for al-
most every slave can weave, and every boy
can sew. The only artists which are distinct-
ly acknowledged as such by the Negroes,
7
422
TRAVELS IN THE
4
and who value themselves on exercising
appropriate and peculiar trades, are the
manufacturers of leather and of iron. The
first of these, are called Karrankea (or as
the word is sometimes pronounced Gaun-
gay). They are to be found in almost every
town, and they frequently travel through
the country in the exercise of their calling.
They tan and dress leather with very great
expedition, by steeping the hide first in
a mixture of wood-ashes and water, until
it parts with the hair; and afterwards by
using the pounded leaves of a tree called
goo, as an astringent. They are at great
pains to render the hide as soft and pliant
as possible, by rubbing it frequently between
their hands, and beating it upon a stone.
The hides of bullocks are converted chiefly
into sandals, and therefore require less care
in dressing than the skins of sheep and
goats, which are used for covering quivers
and saphies, and in making sheaths for
swords and knives, belts, pockets, and a
variety of ornaments. These skins are com-
monly dyed of a red or yellow colour; the
red, by means of millet stalks reduced to
to powder; and the yellow, by the root
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
423
of a plant, the name of which I have for-
gotten.
The manufacturers in iron are not so
numerous as the Karrankeas; but they ap-
pear to have studied their business with
equal diligence. The Negroes on the Coast
being cheaply supplied with iron from the
European traders, never attempt the manu-
facturing of this article themselves; but in
the inland parts, the natives smelt this use-
ful metal in such quantities, as not only to
supply themselves from it with all necessary
weapons and instruments, but even to make
it an article of commerce with some of the
neighbouring states. During my stay at
Kamalia, there was a smelting furnace at a
short distance from the hut where I lodged,
and the owner and his workmen made no
secret about the manner of conducting the
operation; and readily allowed me to exa-
mine the furnace, and assist them in break-
ing the iron stone. The furnace was a
circular tower of clay, about ten feet high,
and three in diameter; surrounded in two
places with withes, to prevent the clay from
cracking and falling to pieces by the vio-
lence of the heat. Round the lower part,
424
TRAVELS IN THE
on a level with the ground (but not so low
as the bottom of the furnace, which was
somewhat concave), were made seven open-
ings, into every one of which were placed
three tubes of clay, and the openings again
plastered up in such a manner that no air
could enter the furnace, but through the
tubes; by the opening and shutting of which
they regulated the fire. These tubes were
formed by plastering a mixture of clay and
grass round a smooth roller of wood, which
as soon as the clay began to harden was
withdrawn, and the tube left to dry in the
sun. The iron-stone which I saw was very
heavy, and of a dull red colour, with greyish
specks; it was broken into pieces about the
size of a hen's egg. A bundle of dry wood
was first put into the furnace, and covered
with a considerable quantity of charcoal,
which was brought, ready burnt, from the
woods. Over this was laid a stratum of
iron-stone, and then another of charcoal,
and so on, until the furnace was quite full.
The fire was applied through one of the
tubes, and blown for some time with bel-
lows made of goats' skins. The operation
went on very slowly at first, and it was
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
425
some hours before the flame appeared above
the furnace; but after this, it burnt with
great violence all the first night; and the
people who attended put in at times more
charcoal. On the day following the fire
was not so fierce, and on the second night
some of the tubes were withdrawn, and the
air allowed to have freer access to the fur-
nace; but the heat was still very great, and
a bluish flame rose some feet above the
top of the furnace. On the third day from
the commencement of the operation, all the
tubes were taken out, the ends of many of
them being vitrified with the heat; but the
metal was not removed until some days
afterwards, when the whole was perfectly
cool. Part of the furnace was then taken
down, and the iron appeared in the form of
a large irregular mass, with pieces of char-
coal adhering to it. It was sonorous; and
when any portion was broken off, the frac-
ture exhibited a granulated appearance, like
broken steel. The owner informed me that
many parts of this cake were useless, but
still there was good iron enough to repay
him for his trouble. This iron, or rather
steel, is formed into various intruments, by
426
TRAVELS IN THE
being repeatedly heated in a forge, the heat
of which is urged by a pair of double bel-
lows, of a very simple construction, being
made of two goats' skins; the tubes from
which unite, before they enter the forge,
and supply a constant and very regular
blast. The hammer, forceps, and anvil, are
all very simple, and the workmanship (par-
ticularly in the formation of knives and
spears) is not destitute of merit. The iron,
indeed, is hard and brittle; and requires
much labour before it can be made to an-
swer the
purpose.
Most of the African blacksmiths are ac-
quainted also with the method of smelting
gold, in which process they use an alkaline
salt, obtained from a ley of burnt corn-stalks
evaporated to dryness. They likewise draw
the gold into wire, and form it into a va-
riety of ornaments, some of which are
executed with a great deal of taste and
ingenuity.
Such is the chief information I obtained,
concerning the present state of arts and
manufactures in those regions of Africa
which I explored in my journey. I might
add, though it is scarce worthy observation,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
427
that in Bambarra and Kaarta, the natives
make very beautiful baskets, hats, and other
articles, both for use and ornament, from
rushes, which they stain of different colours;
and they contrive also to cover their cala-
bashes with interwoven cane, dyed in the
same manner.
In all the laborious occupations above
described, the master and his slaves work
together, without any distinction of supe-
riority. Hired servants, by which I mean
persons of free condition, voluntarily work-
ing for pay, are unknown in Africa; and
this observation naturally leads me to con-
sider the condition of the slaves, and the
various means by which they are reduced
to so miserable a state of servitude. This
unfortunate class are found, I believe, in all
parts of this extensive country, and consti-
tute a considerable branch of commerce,
with the states on the Mediterranean, as
well as with the nations of Europe.
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TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XXII.
Observations concerning the State and Sources
of Slavery in Africa.
A STATE of subordination, and certain
inequalities of rank and condition, are ine-
vitable in every stage of civil society; but
when this subordination is carried to so
great a length, that the persons and ser-
vices of one part of the community are en-
tirely at the disposal of another part, it may
then be denominated a state of slavery;
and in this condition of life, a great body
of the Negro inhabitants of Africa have
continued from the most early period of
their history; with this aggravation, that
their children are born to no other inhe-
ritance.
The slaves in Africa, I suppose are nearly
in the proportion of three to one to the free-
men. They claim no reward for their ser-
vices, except food and clothing; and are
treated with kindness, or severity, accord-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
429
ing to the good or bad disposition of their
masters. Custom, however, has established
certain rules with regard to the treatment
of slaves, which it is thought dishonourable
to violate. Thus, the domestic slaves, or
such as are born in a man's own house, are
treated with more lenity than those which
are purchased with money. The authority
of the master over the domestic slave, as I
have elswhere observed, extends only to
reasonable correction; for the master can-
not sell his domestic, without having first
brought him to a public trial, before the
chief men of the place.* But these restric-
tions on the power of the master, extend
not to the case of prisoners taken in war,
nor to that of slaves purchased with money.
All these unfortunate beings are considered
as strangers and foreigners, who have no
* In time of famine, the master is permitted to sell
one or more of his domestics, to purchase provisions for
his family; and in case of the master's insolvency, the
domestic slaves are sometimes seized upon by the cre-
ditors; and if the master cannot redeem them, they are
liable to be sold for payment of his debts. These are
the only cases that I recollect, in which the domestic
slaves are liable to be sold, without any misconduct or
demerit of their own.
{
430
TRAVELS IN THE
right to the protection of the law, and
may be treated with severity, or sold to a
stranger, according to the pleasure of their
owners. There are, indeed, regular mar-
kets, where slaves of this description are
bought and sold; and the value of a slave in
the eye of an African purchaser, increases
in proportion to his distance from his native
kingdom: for when slaves are only a few
days' journey from the place of their nati-
vity, they frequently effect their escape;
but when one or more kingdoms intervene,
escape being more difficult, they are more
readily reconciled to their situation. On
this account, the unhappy slave is frequent-
ly transferred from one dealer to another,
until he has lost all hopes of returning to
his native kingdom. The slaves which are
purchased by the Europeans on the Coast,
are chiefly of this description; a few of them
are collected in the petty wars, hereafter to
be described, which take place near the
Coast; but by far the greater number are
brought down in large caravans from the
inland countries, of which many are un-
known, even by name, to the Europeans.
The slaves which are thus brought from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
431
the interior, may be divided into two dis-
tinct classes; first, such as were slaves from
their birth, having been born of enslaved
mothers; secondly, such as were born free,
but who afterwards, by whatever means,
became slaves. Those of the first descrip-
tion, are by far the most numerous; for
prisoners taken in war (at least such as are
taken in open and declared war, when one
kingdom avows hostilities against another)
are generally of this description. The com-
paratively small proportion of free people,
to the enslaved, throughout Africa, has
already been noticed; and it must be ob-
served, that men of free condition, have
many advantages over the slaves, even in
war time. They are in general better
armed, and well mounted; and can either
fight or escape, with some hopes of success;
but the slaves, who have only their spears
and bows, and of whom great numbers are
loaded with baggage, become an easy prey.
Thus, when Mansong, King of Bambarra,
made war upon Kaarta (as I have related
in a former Chapter), he took in one day
nine hundred prisoners, of which number
not more than seventy were free men. This
432
TRAVELS IN THE
account I received from Daman Jumma,who
had thirty slaves at Kemmoo, all of whom
were made prisoners by Mansong. Again,
when a freeman is taken prisoner, his friends.
will sometimes ransom him, by giving two
slaves in exchange; but when a slave is
taken, he has no hopes of such redemption.
To these disadvantages, it is to be added,
that the Slatees, who purchase slaves in the
interior countries, and carry them down to
the Coast for sale, constantly prefer such as
have been in that condition of life from
their infancy, well knowing that these have
been accustomed to hunger and fatigue, and
are better able to sustain the hardships of a
long and painful journey, than free men;
and on their reaching the Coast, if no op-
portunity offers of selling them to advan-
tage, they can easily be made to maintain
themselves by their labour; neither are they
so apt to attempt making their escape, as
those who have once tasted the blessings of
freedom.
Slaves of the second description, gene-
rally become such by one or other of the
following causes, 1. Captivity. 2. Famine.
3. Insolvency. 4. Crimes. A freeman may,
✡
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
433
}
by the established customs of Africa, be-
come a slave, by being taken in war. War
is, of all others, the most productive source,
and was probably the origin of slavery; for
when one nation had taken from another,
a greater number of captives than could
be exchanged on equal terms, it is natural
to suppose that the conquerors, finding it
inconvenient to maintain their prisoners,
would compel them to labour; at first,
perhaps, only for their own support; but
afterwards to support their masters. Be
this as it may, it is a known fact, that pri-
soners of war in Africa, are the slaves of
the conquerors; and when the weak or un-
successful warrior, begs for mercy beneath
the uplifted spear of his opponent, he gives
up at the same time his claim to liberty;
and purchases his life at the expence of his
freedom.
In a country, divided into a thousand
petty states, mostly independent and jealous
of each other; where every freeman is ac-
customed to arms, and fond of military
achievements: where the youth who has
practised the bow and spear from his in-
fancy, longs for nothing so much an oppor-
Ff
434
TRAVELS IN THE
P
tunity to display his valour, it is natural to
imagine that wars frequently originate from
very frivolous provocation. When one na-
tion is more powerful than another, a pre-
text is seldom wanting for commencing
hostilities. Thus the war between Kajaaga
and Kasson was occasioned by the detention
of a fugitive slave: that between Bambarra
and Kaarta by the loss of a few cattle.
Other cases of the same nature perpetually
occur, in which the folly or mad ambition
of their princes, and the zeal of their reli-
gious enthusiasts, give full employment to
the scythe of desolation.
The wars of Africa are of two kinds,
which are distinguished by different ap-
pellations that species which bears the
greatest resemblance to our European con-
tests, is denominated killi, a word signify-
ing "to call out," because such wars are
openly avowed, and previously declared.
Wars of this description in Africa, com-
monly terminate, however, in the course
of a single campaign. A battle is fought,
the vanquished seldom think of rallying
again; the whole inhabitants become panic
struck; and the conquerors have only to
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
435
bind the slaves, and carry off their plunder
and their victims. Such of the prisoners
as, through age or infirmity, are unable
to endure fatigue, or are found unfit for
sale, are considered as useless; and I
have no doubt are frequently put to death.
The same fate commonly awaits a chief,
or any other person who has taken a very
distinguished part in the war. And here
it may be observed that, notwithstand-
ing this exterminating system, it is sur-
prising to behold how soon an African
town is rebuilt and repeopled. The cir-
cumstance arises probably from this; that
their pitched battles are few; the weakest
know their own situation, and seek safety
in flight. When their country has been
desolated, and their ruined towns and vil-
lages deserted by the enemy, such of the
inhabitants as have escaped the sword, and
the chain, generally return, though with
cautious steps, to the place of their nativity;
for it seems to be the universal wish of
mankind, to spend the evening of their days
where they passed their infancy. The poor
Negro feels this desire in its full force. To
him no water is sweet but what is drawn
Ff2
436
TRAVELS IN THE
from his own well; and no tree has so cool
and pleasant a shade as the tabba tree* of
his native village. When war compels him
to abandon the delightful spot in which he
first drew his breath, and seek for safety in
some other kingdom, his time is spent in
talking about the country of his ancestors;
and no sooner is peace restored than he
turns his back upon the land of strangers,
rebuilds with haste his fallen walls, and
exults to see the smoke ascend from his
native village.
The other species of African warfare is
distinguished by the appellation of tegria,
"plundering or stealing." It arises from a
sort of hereditary feud, which the inhabi-
tants of one nation or district bear towards
another. No immediate cause of hostility
is assigned, or notice of attack given; but
the inhabitants of each watch every oppor-
tunity to plunder and distress the objects of
their animosity by predatory excursions.
These are very common, particularly about
the beginning of the dry season, when the
labour of the harvest is over and provisions
* This is a large spreading tree (a species of sterculia)
under which the Bentang is commonly placed.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
437
are plentiful. Schemes of vengeance are
then meditated. The chief man surveys
the number and activity of his vassals, as
they brandish their spears at festivals; and
elated with his own importance, turns his
whole thoughts towards revenging some
depredation or insult, which either he or
his ancestors may have received from a
neighbouring state.
Wars of this description are generally
conducted with great secrecy. A few re-
solute individuals, headed by some person
of enterprise and courage, march quietly
through the woods, surprise in the night
some unprotected village, and carry off the
inhabitants and their effects, before their
neighbours can come to their assistance.
One morning, during my stay at Kamalia,
we were all much alarmed by a party of
this kind. The king of Fooladoo's son,
with five hundred horsemen, passed secretly
through the woods, a little to the southward
of Kamalia, and on the morning following
plundered three towns belonging to Madi-
gai, a powerful chief in Jallonkadoo.
The success of this expedition encouraged
the governor of Bangassi, a town in Fooladoo,
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TRAVELS IN THE
to make a second inroad upon another part
of the same country. Having assembled
about two hundred of his people, he passed
the river Kokoro in the night, and carried
off a great number of prisoners. Several
of the inhabitants who had escaped these
attacks, were afterwards seized by the Man-
dingoes, as they wandered about in the
woods, or concealed themselves in the glens
and strong places of the mountains.
These plundering excursions, always pro-
duce speedy retaliation; and when large
parties cannot be collected for this purpose,
a few friends will combine together, and
advance into the enemy's country, with a
view to plunder, or carry off the inhabi-
tants. A single individual has been known
to take his bow and quiver, and proceed in
like manner. Such an attempt is doubtless
in him an act of rashness; but when it is
considered that in one of these predatory
wars, he has probably been deprived of his
child, or his nearest relation, his situation
will rather call for pity than censure. The
poor sufferer, urged on by the feelings of
domestic or paternal attachment, and the
ardour of revenge, conceals himself among
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
439
the bushes, until some young or unarm-
ed person passes by. He then, tyger-like,
springs upon his prey; drags his victim into
the thicket, and in the night carries him off
as a slave.
When a Negro has, by means like these,
once fallen into the hands of his enemies,
he is either retained as the slave of his con-
queror, or bartered into a distant kingdom;
for an African, when he has once subdued
his enemy, will seldom give him an oppor-
tunity of lifting up his hand against him at
a future period. A conqueror commonly
disposes of his captives according to the
rank which they held in their native king-
dom. Such of the domestic slaves as appear
to be of a mild disposition, and particularly
the
young women, are retained as his own
slaves. Others that display marks of dis-
content, are disposed of in a distant coun-
try; and such of the freemen or slaves, as
have taken an active part in the war, are
either sold to the Slatees, or put to death.
War, therefore, is certainly the most gene-
ral, and most productive source of slavery;
and the desolations of war often (but not
always) produce the second cause of slavery,
440
TRAVELS IN THE
famine; in which case a freeman becomes a
slave to avoid a greater calamity.
Perhaps, by a philosophic and reflecting
mind, death itself would scarcely be consi-
dered as a greater calamity than slavery;
but the poor Negro, when fainting with
hunger, thinks like ESAU of old; "behold I
"am at the point to die, and what profit
“shall this birthright do to me?" There
are many instances of free men voluntarily
surrendering up their liberty to save their
lives. During a great scarcity which lasted
for three years, in the countries of the
Gambia, great numbers of people became
slaves in this manner. Dr. Laidley assured
me that, at that time, many free men came
and begged, with great earnestness, to be
put upon his slave-chain, to save them from
perishing of hunger. Large families are
very often exposed to absolute want; and
as the parents have almost unlimited autho-
rity over their children, it frequently hap-
pens, in all parts of Africa, that some of the
latter are sold to purchase provisions for the
rest of the family. When I was at Jarra,
Daman Jumma pointed out to me three
young slaves which he had purchased in
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
441
this manner. I have already related another
instance which I saw at Wonda; and I was
informed that in Fooladoo, at that time, it
was a very common practice.
The third cause of slavery, is insolvency.
Of all the offences (if insolvency may be so
called), to which the laws of Africa have
affixed the punishment of slavery, this is
the most common. A Negro trader com-
monly contracts debts on some mercantile
speculation, either from his neighbours, to
purchase such articles as will sell to advan-
tage in a distant market, or from the Euro-
pean traders on the Coast; payment to be
made in a given time. In both cases, the
situation of the adventurer is exactly the
same. If he succeeds, he may secure an
independency. If he is unsuccessful, his
person and services are at the disposal of
another; for in Africa, not only the effects
of the insolvent, but even the insolvent
himself, is sold to satisfy the lawful demands
of his creditors.*
*When a Negro takes up goods on credit from any
of the Europeans on the Coast, and does not make pay-
ment at the time appointed, the European is authorized,
by the laws of the country, to seize upon the debtor
442
TRAVELS IN THE
The fourth cause above enumerated, is
the commission of crimes, on which the laws
of the country affix slavery as a punishment.
In Africa, the only offences of this class are
murder, adultery, and witchcraft; and I am
happy to say, that they did not appear to me
to be common. In cases of murder, I was
informed, that the nearest relation of the
deceased had it in his power, after convic-
tion, either to kill the offender with his
own hand, or sell him into slavery. When
adultery occurs, it is generally left to the
option of the person injured, either to sell
the culprit, or accept such a ransom for
him, as he may think equivalent to the in-
jury he has sustained. By witchcraft, is
himself, if he can find him; or if he cannot be found, on
any person of his family; or, in the last resort, on any
native of the same kingdom. The person thus seized on,
is detained while his friends are sent in quest of the
debtor. When he is found, a meeting is called of the
chief people of the place, and the debtor is compelled to
ransom his friend by fulfilling his engagements. If he
is unable to do this, his person is immediately secured
and sent down to the Coast, and the other released. If
the debtor cannot be found, the person seized on is
obliged to pay double the amount of the debt, or is him-
self sold into slavery. I was given to understand, how
ever, that this part of the law is seldom enforced.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
448
ineant pretended magic, by which the lives
or healths of persons are affected: in other
words, it is the administering of poison.
No trial for this offence, however, came
under
my observation while I was in Africa;
and I therefore suppose that the crime, and
its punishment, occur but very seldom.
When a free man has become a slave by
any one of the causes before mentioned, he
generally continues so for life, and his
children (if they are born of an enslaved
mother) are brought up in the same state
of servitude. There are however a few in-
stances of slaves obtaining their freedom,
and sometimes even with the consent of
their masters; as by performing some singu-
lar piece of service, or by going to battle,
and bringing home two slaves as a ransom ;
but the common way of regaining free-
dom is by escape; and when slaves have
once set their minds on running away, they
often succeed. Some of them will wait for
years before an opportunity presents itself,
and during that period shew no signs of
discontent. In general, it may be remarked,
that slaves who come from a hilly country,
and have been much accustomed to hunting
444
TRAVELS IN THE
and travel, are more apt to attempt their
escape, than such as are born in a flat coun-
try, and have been employed in cultivating
the land.
Such are the general outlines of that
system of slavery which prevails in Africa;.
and it is evident, from its nature and extent,
that it is a system of no modern date. It
probably had its origin in the remote ages
of antiquity, before the Mahomedans ex-
plored a path across the Desert. How far
it is maintained and supported by the slave
traffic, which, for two hundred years, the
nations of Europe have carried on with the
natives of the Coast, it is neither within
my province, nor in my power, to explain.
If my sentiments should be required con-
cerning the effect which a discontinuance
of that commerce would produce on the
manners of the natives, I should have no
hesitation in observing, that, in the present
unenlightened state of their minds, my opi-
nion, is, the effect would neither be so ex-
tensive or beneficial, as many wise and
worthy persons fondly expect.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
445
CHAPTER XXIII.
Of Gold-dust, and the Manner in which it is
collected.-Process of Washing it.—Its
Value in Africa.-Of Ivory.-Surprise of
the Negroes at the Eagerness of the Euro-
peans for this Commodity. Scattered
Teeth frequently picked up in the Woods.—
Mode of Hunting the Elephant.—Some
Reflections on the unimproved State of the
Country, &c.
THOSE valuable commodities, gold and
ivory (the next objects of our inquiry) have
probably been found in Africa from the
first ages of the world. They are reckoned
among its most important productions in
the earliest records of its history.
It has been observed, that gold is seldom
or never discovered, except in mountainous
and barren countries: Nature, it is said,
thus making amends in one way, for her
penuriousness in the other. This, however,
is not wholly true. Gold is found in con-
446
TRAVELS IN THE
siderable quantities throughout every part
of Manding; a country which is indeed
hilly, but cannot properly be called moun-
tainous, much less barren. It is also found
in great plenty in Jallonkadoo (particularly
about Boori), another hilly, but by no means
an infertile country. It is remarkable, that
in the place last mentioned (Boori), which
is situated about four days' journey to the
south-west of Kamalia, the salt market is
often supplied, at the same time, with rock-
salt from the Great Desert, and sea-salt from
the Rio Grande; the price of each, at this
distance from its source, being nearly the
same; and the dealers in each, whether
Moors from the north, or Negroes from
the west, are invited thither by the same
motives, that of bartering their salt for
gold.
The gold of Manding, so far as I could
learn, is never found in any matrix or vein,
but always in small grains, nearly in a pure
state, from the size of a pin's head, to that
of a pea; scattered through a large body of
sand or clay; and in this state it is called
by the Mandingoes sanoo munko," gold pow-
der." It is, however, extremely probable,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
447
by what I could learn of the situation of
the ground, that most of it has originally
been washed down by repeated torrents
from the neighbouring hills. The manner
in which it is collected, is nearly as follows:
About the beginning of December, when
the harvest is over, and the streams and tor-
rents have greatly subsided, the Mansa, or
chief man of the town, appoints a day to
begin sanoo koo, "gold washing ;" and the
women are sure to have themselves in rea-
diness by the time appointed. A hoe, or
spade, for digging up the sand, two or three
calabashes for washing it in, and a few quills
for containing the gold dust, are all the im-
plements necessary for the purpose. On the
morning of their departure, a bullock is
killed for the first day's entertainment, and
a number of prayers and charms are used
to ensure success; for a failure on that
day, is thought a bad omen. The Mansa
of Kamalia, with fourteen of his people,
were, I remember, so much disappointed
in their first day's washing, that very few
of them had resolution to persevere; and
the few that did, had but very indifferent
success; which indeed is not much to be
448
TRAVELS IN THE
i
wondered at; for instead of opening some
untried place, they continue to dig and
wash in the same spot where they had dug
and washed for years; and where, of course,
but few large grains could be left.
The washing the sands of the streams is
by far the easiest way of obtaining the gold-
dust; but in most places the sands have
been so narrowly searched before, that un-
less the stream takes some new course, the
gold is found but in small quantities. While
some of the party are busied in washing the
sands, others employ themselves farther up
the torrent, where the rapidity of the stream
has carried away all the clay, sand, &c. and
left nothing but small pebbles. The search
among these is a very troublesome task. I
have seen women who have had the skin
worn off the tops of their fingers in this
employment. Sometimes, however, they
are rewarded by finding pieces of gold,
which they call sanoo birro, " gold stones,"
that amply repay them for their trouble. A
woman and her daughter, inhabitants of
Kamalia, found in one day two pieces of
this kind; one of five drachms, and the
other of three drachms weight. But the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
449
most certain and profitable mode of wash-
ing is practised in the height of the dry
season, by digging a deep pit, like a draw-
well, near some hill which has previously
been discovered to contain gold. The pit
is dug with small spades or corn hoes, and
the earth is drawn up in large calabashes,
As the Negroes dig through the different
strata of clay or sand, a calabash or two of
each is washed, by way of experiment;
and in this manner the labourers proceed,
until they come to a stratum containing
gold; or until they are obstructed by rocks,
or inundated by water. In general, when
they come to a stratum of fine reddish sand,
with small black specks therein, they find
gold in some proportion or other, and send
up large calabashes full of the sand, for the
women to wash; for though the pit is dug
by the men, the gold is always washed by
the women, who are accustomed from their
infancy to a similar operation, in separating
the husks of corn from the meal.
As I never descended into any of these
pits, I cannot say in what manner they
are worked under ground. Indeed, the si-
tuation in which I was placed, made it
Gg
450
TRAVELS IN THE
necessary for me to be cautious not to in-
cur the suspicion of the natives, by examin-
ing too far into the riches of their country;
but the manner of separating the gold from
the sand, is very simple, and is frequently
performed by the women in the middle of
the town; for when the searchers return
from the valleys in the evening, they com-
monly bring with them each a calabash or
two of sand, to be washed by such of the
females as remain at home. The operation
is simply as follows:
A portion of sand or clay (for gold is
sometimes found in a brown coloured clay),
is put into a large calabash, and mixed with
a sufficient quantity of water. The woman,
whose office it is, then shakes the calabash
in such a manner, as to mix the sand and
water together, and give the whole a rota-
tory motion; at first gently, but afterwards
more quick, until a small portion of sand
and water, at every revolution, flies over
the brim of the calabash. The sand thus
separated, is only the coarsest particles
mixed with a little muddy water. After
the operation has been continued for some
time, the sand is allowed to subside, and
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
451
the water poured off; a portion of coarse
sand, which is now uppermost in the cala-
bash, is removed by the hand, and fresh
water being added, the operation is re-
peated until the water comes off almost
pure. The woman now takes a second
calabash, and shakes the sand and water
gently from the one to the other, reserving
that portion of sand which is next the bot-
tom of the calabash, and which is most
likely to contain the gold. This small
quantity is mixed with some pure water,
and being moved about in the calabash, is
carefully examined. If a few particles of
gold are picked out, the contents of the
other calabash are examined in the same
manner; but, in general, the party is well
contented, if she can obtain three or four
grains from the contents of both calabashes.
Some women, however, by long practice,
become so well acquainted with the nature
of the sand, and the mode of washing it,
that they will collect gold, where others
cannot find a single particle. The gold
du. is kept in quills, stopt up with cot-
ton; and the washers are fond of display-
ing a number of these quills in their hair.
M
५
Gg 2
452
TRAVELS IN THE
>
Generally speaking, if a person uses com-
mon diligence, in a proper soil, it is sup-
posed that as much gold may be collected
by him in the course of the dry season, as
is equal to the value of two slaves.
Thus simple is the process by which the
Negroes obtain gold in Manding; and it
is evident, from this account, that the coun-
try contains a considerable portion of this
precious metal; for many of the smaller
particles must necessarily escape the ob-
servation of the naked eye; and as the
natives generally search the sands of
streams at a considerable distance from
the hills, and consequently far removed
from the mines where the gold was origi-
produced, the labourers are sometimes but
ill paid for their trouble. Minute particles
only, of this heavy metal, can be carried by
the current to any considerable distance;
the larger must remain deposited near the
original source from whence they came.
Were the gold-bearing streams to be traced
to their fountains; and the hills from
whence they spring properly examined,
the sand in which the gold is there depo-
sited would, no doubt, be found to contain
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
453
particles of a much larger size ;* and even
the small grains might be collected to con-
siderable advantage by the use of quicksil
ver, and other improvements, with which
the natives are at present unacquainted.
Part of this gold is converted into orna-
ments for the women; but, in general, these
ornaments are more to be admired for their
weight, than their workmanship. They are
massy and inconvenient, particularly the
ear-rings, which are commonly so heavy ast
to pull down and lacerate the lobe of the
ear; to avoid which they are supported by
a thong of red leather, which passes over
the crown of the head from one ear to the
other. The necklace displays greater fancy;
and the proper arrangement of the different
beads and plates of gold, is the great crite-
rion of taste and elegance. When a lady of
* I am informed, that the gold mine, as it is called,
in Wicklow, in Ireland, which was discovered in the
year 1795, is near the top, and upon the steep slope, of
a mountain. Here, pieces of gold of several ounces
weight were frequently found. What would have
been gold-dust two miles below, was here golden
gravel; that is, each grain was like a small pebble in
size, and one piece was found which weighed near
twenty-two ounces troy.
454
TRAVELS IN THE
consequence is in full dress, her gold orna-
ments may be worth altogether, from fifty
to eighty pounds sterling.
A small quantity of gold is likewise em-
ployed by the Slatees, in defraying the
expences of their journies to and from the
Coast; but by far the greater proportion
is annually carried away by the Moors in
exchange for salt, and other merchandize.
During my stay at Kamalia, the gold col-
lected by the different traders at that place,
for salt alone, was nearly equal to one hun-
dred and ninety-eight pounds sterling; and
as Kamalia is but a small town, and not
much resorted to by the trading Moors,
this quantity must have borne a very small
proportion to the gold collected at Kancaba,
Kancaree, and some other large towns. The
value of salt in this part of Africa is very
great. One slab, about two feet and a half
in length, fourteen inches in breadth, and
two inches in thickness, will sometimes
sell for about two pounds ten shillings
sterling, and from one pound fifteen shil-
lings, to two pounds, may be considered as
the common price. Four of these slabs are
considered as a load for an ass, and six for
I
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
455
a bullock. The value of European mer-
chandize in Manding varies very much,
according to the supply from the Coast, or
the dread of war in the country; but the
return for such articles is commonly made
in slaves. The price of a prime slave when
I was at Kamilia, was from nine to twelve
minkallies, and European commodities had
then nearly the following value:
18 gun flints,
48 leaves of tobacco,
20 charges of gunpowder,
A cutlass,
one minkalli.
A musket, from three to four minkallies.
The produce of the country, and the dif-
ferent necessaries of life, when exchanged
for gold, sold as follows:
Common provisions for one day, the
weight of one teelee-kissi (a black bean,
six of which make the weight of one min-
kalli;)—a chicken, one teelee-kissi
sheep, three teelee-kissi-a bullock, one
minkalli-a horse, from ten to seventeen
minkallies.
- a
The Negroes weigh the gold in small
balances, which they always carry about
them. They make no difference in point of
456
TRAVELS IN THE
$
}
value, between gold dust and wrought gold.
In bartering one article for another, the
person who receives the gold, always weighs
it with his own teelee-kissi. These beans
are sometimes fraudulently soaked in Shea-
butter, to make them heavy; and I once
saw a pebble ground exactly into the form
of one of them; but such practices are not
very common.
Having now related the substance of
what occurs to my recollection concern-
ing the African mode of obtaining gold
from the earth, and its value in barter, I
proceed to the next article, of which I'
proposed to treat, namely, ivory.
Nothing creates a greater surprise among
the Negroes on the sea coast, than the ea-
gerness displayed by the European traders
to procure elephants' teeth; it being ex-
ceedingly difficult to make them compre-
hend to what use it is applied. Although
they are shewn knives with ivory hafts,
combs, and toys of the same material, and
are convinced that the ivory thus manufac-
tured, was originally parts of a tooth, they
are not satisfied. They suspect that this
commodity is more frequently converted
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
457
in Europe, to purposes of far greater im-
portance; the true nature of which is studi-
ously concealed from them, lest the price
of ivory should be enhanced. They cannot,
they say, easily persuade themselves, that
ships would be built, and voyages under-
taken, to procure an article, which had no
other value than that of furnishing handles
to knives, &c. when pieces of wood would
answer the purpose equally well.
Elephants are very numerous in the in-
terior of Africa, but they appear to be a
distinct species from those found in Asia.
Blumenbach, in his figures of objects of
natural history, has given good drawings of
a grinder of each; and the variation is
evident. M. Cuvier also has given, in the
Magazin Encyclopedique, a clear account of
the difference between them. As I never
examined the Asiatic elephant, I have
chosen rather to refer to those writers,
than advance this as an opinion of my own.
It has been said, that the African elephant
is of a less docile nature than the Asiatic,
and incapable of being tamed. The Negroes
certainly do not at present tame them; but
when we consider that the Carthaginians
458
TRAVELS IN THE
}
had always tame elephants in their armies,
and actually transported some of them to
Italy in the course of the Punic wars; it
seems more likely that they should have
possessed the art of taming their own ele-
phants, than have submitted to the expence
of bringing such vast animals from Asia.
Perhaps, the barbarous practice of hunting
the African elephants for the sake of their
teeth, has rendered them more untractable
and savage, than they were found to be in
former times.
The greater part of the ivory which is
sold on the Gambia, and Senegal rivers, is
brought from the interior country. The
lands towards the Coast are too swampy,
and too much intersected with creeks and
rivers, for so bulky an animal as the ele-
phant to travel through, without being dis-
covered; and when once the natives discern
the marks of his feet in the earth, the whole
village is up in arms. The thoughts of
feasting on his flesh, making sandals of his
hide, and selling the teeth to the Europeans,
inspire every one with courage; and the
animal seldom escapes from his pursuers;
but in the plains of Bambarra and Kaarta,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
459
and the extensive wilds of Jallonkadoo, the
elephants are very numerous; and, from
the great scarcity of gunpowder in those
districts, they are less annoyed by the
natives.
Scattered teeth are frequently picked up
in the woods, and travellers are very dili-
gent in looking for them. It is a common
practice with the elephant, to thrust his
teeth under the roots of such shrubs and
bushes as grow in the more dry and elevated
parts of the country, where the soil is shal-
low. These bushes he easily overturns, and
feeds on the roots, which are, in general,
more tender and juicy than the hard woody
branches, or the foliage; but when the teeth
are partly decayed by age, and the roots
more firmly fixed, the great exertions of
the animal, in this practice, frequently
causes them to break short. At Kamalia I
saw two teeth; one, a very large one; which
were found in the woods, and which were
evidently broken off in this manner. In-
deed it is difficult otherwise to account for
such a large proportion of broken ivory, as
is daily offered for sale, at the different
factories; for when the elephant is killed
460
TRAVELS IN THE
}
in hunting, unless he dashes himself over a
precipice, the teeth are always extracted
entire.
There are certain seasons of the year
when the elephants collect into large herds,
and traverse the country in quest of food
or water; and as all that part of the coun-
try to the north of the Niger, is destitute
of rivers, whenever the pools in the woods
are dried up, the elephants approach to-
wards the banks of that river. Here they
continue until the commencement of the
rainy season, in the months of June or July;
and during this time they are much hunted
by such of the Bambarrans as have gun-
powder to spare. The elephant hunters
seldom go out singly: a party of four or
five join together; and having each fur-
nished himself with powder and ball, and a
quantity of corn-meal in a leather bag, suf-
ficient for five or six days provision, they
enter the most unfrequented parts of the
wood, and examine with great care every
thing that can lead to the discovery of the
elephants. In this pursuit, notwithstanding
the bulk of the animal, very great nicety
of observation is required. The broken
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
461
branches, the scattered dung of the animal,
and the marks of his feet, are carefully in-
spected; and many of the hunters have, by
long experience and attentive observation,
become so expert in their search, that as
soon as they observe the footmarks of an
elephant, they will tell almost to a certain-
ty at what time it passed, and at what dis
tance it will be found.
When they discover a herd of elephants,
they follow them at a distance, until they
perceive some one stray from the rest, and
come into such a situation as to be fired
at, with advantage. The hunters then ap-
proach with great caution, creeping amongst
the long grass, until they have got near
enough to be sure of their aim. They then
discharge all their pieces at once, and throw
themselves on their faces among the grass.
The wounded elephant immediately applies
his trunk to the different wounds, but be-
ing unable to extract the balls, and seeing
nobody near him, becomes quite furious,
and runs about amongst the bushes, until by
fatigue and loss of blood he has exhausted
himself, and affords the hunters an op-
portunity of firing a second time at him,
1
462
TRAVELS IN THE
by which he is generally brought to the
ground.
The skin is now taken off, and extended
on the ground with pegs, to dry; and such
parts of the flesh as are most esteemed, are
cut up into thin slices, and dried in the sun,
to serve for provisions on some future occa-
sion. The teeth are struck out with a light
hatchet, which the hunters always carry
along with them; not only for that purpose,
but also to enable them to cut down such
trees as contain honey; for though they
carry with them only five or six days pro-
visions, they will remain in the woods for
months, if they are successful; and support
themselves upon the flesh of such elephants
as they kill, and wild honey.
The ivory thus collected, is seldom
brought down to the Coast by the hunters
themselves. They dispose of it to the itine-
rant merchants, who come annually from
the Coast with arms and ammunition, to
purchase this valuable commodity. Some
of these merchants will collect ivory in the
course of one season, sufficient to load four
or five asses. A great quantity of ivory is
likewise brought from the interior, by the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
463
1
slave coffies; there are, however, some Sla-
tees, of the Mahomedan persuasion, who,
from motives of religion, will not deal in
ivory nor eat of the flesh of the elephant,
unless it has been killed with a spear.
The quantity of ivory collected in this
part of Africa, is not so great, nor are the
teeth in general so large, as in the countries
nearer the Line: few of them weigh more
than eighty, or one hundred pounds; and,
upon an average, a bar of European mer-
chandise may be reckoned as the price of a
pound of ivory.
I have now, I trust, in this and the pre-
ceding Chapters, explained with sufficient
minuteness, the nature and extent of the
coinmercial connection which at present
prevails, and has long subsisted, between
the Negro natives of those parts of Africa
which I visited, and the nations of Europe;
and it appears, that slaves, gold, and ivory,
together with the few articles enumerated
in the beginning of my work, viz. bees-wax
and honey, hides, gums, and dye woods,
constitute the whole catalogue of exportable
commodities. Other productions, however,
have been incidentally noticed as the growth
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of Africa; such as grain of different kinds,
tobacco, indigo, cotton-wool, and perhaps a
few others; but of all these (which can
only be obtained by cultivation and labour),
the natives raise sufficient only for their
own immediate expenditure; nor, under
the present system of their laws, manners,
trade and government, can any thing far-
ther be expected from them. It cannot,
however, admit of a doubt, that all the rich
and valuable productions, both of the East
and West Indies, might easily be natu-
ralized, and brought to the utmost perfec-
tion, in the tropical parts of this immense
continent. Nothing is wanting to this end,
but example, to enlighten the minds of the
natives; and instruction, to enable them to
direct their industry to proper objects. It
was not possible for me to behold the won-
derful fertility of the soil, the vast herds of
cattle, proper both for labour and food, and
a variety of other circumstances favourable
to colonization and agriculture; and re-
flect, withal, on the means which presented
themselves of a vast inland navigation,
without lamenting that a country, so abun-
dantly gifted and favoured by nature, should
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
465
remain in its present savage and neglected
state. Much more did I lament, that a
people of manners and dispositions so gentle
and benevolent, should either be left as they
now are, immersed in the gross and uncom-
fortable blindness of pagan superstition, or
permitted to become converts to a system
of bigotry and fanaticism; which, without
enlightening the mind, often debases the
heart. On this subject many observations
might be made; but the reader will pro-
bably think that I have already digressed too
largely; and I now, therefore, return to
my situation at Kamalia.
S
Hh
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TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XXIV.
Transactions at Kamalia resumed.-Arabic
MSS. in Use among the Mahomedan Ne-
groes.-Reflections concerning the Conver-
sion and Education of the Negro Children.
Return of the Author's Benefactor,
KARFA. Further Account of the Purchase
and Treatment of Slaves.-Fast of Rha-
madan, how observed by the Negroes.-
Author's anxiety for the Day of Departure.
The Caravan sets out-Account of it on
its Departure, and Proceedings on the
Road, until its arrival at Kinytakooro.
THE schoolmaster, to whose care I was
entrusted during the absence of Karfa, was
a man of a mild disposition, and gentle
manners; his name was Fankooma; and
although he himself adhered strictly to the
religion of Mahomet, he was by no means
intolerant in his principles towards others
who differed from him. He spent much of
his time in reading; and teaching appeared
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
467
to be his pleasure, as well as employment.
His school consisted of seventeen boys,
most of whom were sons of Kafirs; and
two girls, one of whom was Karfa's own
daughter. The girls received their instruc-
tions in the day time, but the boys always
had their lessons by the light of a large fire
before daybreak, and again late in the
evening; for being considered during their
scholarship, as the domestic slaves of the
master, they were employed in planting
- corn, bringing fire-wood, and in other ser-
vile offices, through the day.
Exclusive of the Koran, and a book or
two of commentaries thereon, the school-
master possessed a variety of manuscripts,
which had partly been purchased from the
trading Moors, and partly borrowed from
Bushreens in the neighbourhood, and copied
with great care. Other MSS. had been pro-
duced to me at different places in the course
of my journey; and on recounting those I
had before seen, and those which were now
shewn to me, and interrogating the school-
master on the subject, I discovered that the
Negroes are in possession (among others),
of an Arabic version of the Pentateuch of
Hh 2
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TRAVELS IN THE
Moses, which they call Taureta la Moosa.
This is so highly esteemed, that it is often
sold for the value of one prime slave. They
have likewise a version of the Psalms of
David (Zabora Dawidi); and, lastly, the
book of Isaiah, which they call Lingeeli la
Isa, and it is in very high esteem. I sus-
pect, indeed, that in all these copies, there
are interpolations of some of the peculiar
tenets of Mahomet, for I could distinguish
in many passages the name of the Prophet.
It is possible, however, that this circum-
stance might otherwise have been accounted
for, if my knowledge of the Arabic had
been more extensive. By means of those
books, many of the converted Negroes have
acquired an acquaintance with some of the
remarkable events recorded in the Old
Testament. The account of our first pa-
rents; the death of Abel; the deluge; the
lives of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; the
story of Joseph and his brethren; the his-
tory of Moses, David, Solomon, &c. All
these have been related to me in the Man-
dingo language, with tolerable exactness,
by different people; and my surprise was
not greater on hearing these accounts from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
469
the lips of the Negroes, than theirs, on
finding that I was already acquainted with
them; for although the Negroes in general
have a very great idea of the wealth and
power of the Europeans, I am afraid that
the Mahomedan converts among them,
think but very lightly of our superior at-
tainments in religious knowledge. The
white traders in the maritime districts, take
no pains to counteract this unhappy preju-
dice; always performing their own devo-
tions in secret, and seldom condescending
to converse with the Negroes in a friendly
and instructive manner. To me, therefore,
it was not so much the subject of wonder,
as matter of regret, to observe, that while
the superstition of Mahomet has, in this
manner, scattered a few faint beams of
learning among these poor people, the pre-
cious light of Christianity is altogether
excluded. I could not but lament, that
although the Coast of Africa has now been
known and frequented by the Europeans
for more than two hundred years, yet the
Negroes still remain entire strangers to the
doctrines of our holy religion. We are
anxious to draw from obscurity the opinions
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TRAVELS IN THE
and records of antiquity, the beauties of
Arabian and Asiatic literature, &c.; but
while our libraries are thus stored with the
learning of various countries, we distribute
with a parsimonious hand, the blessings of
religious truth, to the benighted nations of
the earth. The natives of Asia derive but
little advantage in this respect from an in-
tercourse with us; and even the poor Afri-
cans, whom we affect to consider as barba-
rians, look upon us, I fear, as little better
than a race of formidable but ignorant
heathens. When I produced Richardson's
Arabic grammar to some Slatees on the
Gambia, they were astonished to think that
any European should understand, and write
the sacred language of their religion. At
first, they suspected that it might have
been written by some of the slaves carried
from the Coast; but, on a closer examina-
tion, they were satisfied that no Bushreen
could write such beautiful Arabic; and one
of them offered to give me an ass, and six-
teen bars of goods, if I would part with
the book. Perhaps, a short and easy intro-
duction to Christianity, such as is found
in some of the catechisms for children,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
471
elegantly printed in Arabic, and distributed
on different parts of the Coast, might have
a wonderful effect. The expence would be
but trifling; curiosity would induce many
to read it; and the evident superiority which
it would possess over their present manu-
scripts, both in point of elegance and cheap-
ness, might at last obtain it a place among
the school books of Africa.
The reflections which I have thus ven-
tured to submit to my readers on this impor-
tant subject, naturally suggested themselves
to my mind, on perceiving the encourage-
ment which was thus given to learning,
such as it is,) in many parts of Africa. I
have observed, that the pupils at Kamalia
were most of them the children of Pagans;
their parents, therefore, could have had no
predilection for the doctrines of Mahomet.
Their aim was their children's improve-
ment; and if a more enlightened system
had presented itself, it would probably have
been preferred. The children, too, wanted
not a spirit of emulation; which it is the
aim of the tutor to encourage. When any
one of them has read through the Koran,
and performed a certain number of public
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TRAVELS IN THE
prayers, a feast is prepared by the school-
master, and the scholar undergoes an exa-
mination, or (in European terms,) takes out
his degree. I attended at three different
inaugurations of this sort, and heard with
pleasure, the distinct and intelligent answers
which the scholars frequently gave to the
Bushreens, who assembled on those occa-
sions, and acted as examiners. When the
Bushreens had satisfied themselves respect-
ing the learning and abilities of the scholar,
the last page of the Koran was put into his
hand, and he was desired to read it aloud:
after the boy had finished this lesson, he
pressed the paper against his forehead, and
pronounced the word Amen; upon which
all the Bushreens rose, and shaking him
cordially by the hand, bestowed upon him
the title of Bushreen.
When a scholar has undergone this exa-
mination, his parents are informed that he
has completed his education, and that it is
incumbent on them to redeem their son, by
giving to the schoolmaster a slave, or the
price of a slave, in exchange; which is
always done, if the parents can afford to do
it; if not, the boy remains the domestic
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
478
slave of the schoolmaster until he can, by
his own industry, collect goods sufficient to
ransom himself.
About a week after the departure of
Karfa, three Moors arrived at Kamalia
with a considerable quantity of salt, and
other merchandize, which they had obtain-
ed on credit, from a merchant of Fezzan,
who had lately arrived at Kancaba. Their
engagement was to pay him his price when
the goods were sold, which they expected
would be in the course of a month. Being
rigid Bushreens, they were accommodated
with two of Karfa's huts, and sold their
goods to very great advantage.
On the 24th of January, Karfa returned
to Kamalia with a number of people, and
thirteen prime slaves which he had pur-
chased. He likewise brought with him a
young girl whom he had married at Kan-
caba, as his fourth wife, and had given her
parents three prime slaves for her. She
was kindly received at the door of the ba-
loon by Karfa's other wives, who conducted
their new acquaintance and co-partner into
one of the best huts, which they had caused
474
TRAVELS IN THE
}
to be swept and white-washed, on purpose
to receive her.*
My clothes were by this time become so
very ragged, that I was almost ashamed to
appear out of doors; but Karfa, on the day
after his arrival, generously presented me
with such a garment and trowsers, as are
commonly worn in the country.
The slaves which Karfa had brought
with him were all of them prisoners of war;
they had been taken by the Bambarran
army in the kingdoms of Wassela and
Kaarta, and carried to Sego, where some
of them had remained three years in irons.
From Sego they were sent, in company
with a number of other captives, up the
Niger in two large canoes, and offered for
sale at Yamina, Bammakoo, and Kancaba;
at which places the greater number of the
captives were bartered for gold-dust, and
the remainder sent forward to Kankaree.
Eleven of them confessed to me that they
had been slaves from their infancy; but
* The Negroes white-wash their huts with a mixture
of bone-ashes and water, to which is commonly added
a little gum.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
475
the other two refused to give any account
of their former condition. They were all
very inquisitive; but they viewed me at
first with looks of horror, and repeatedly
asked if my countrymen were cannibals.
They were very desirous to know what
became of the slaves after they had crossed
the salt water. I told them, that they were
employed in cultivating the land; but they
would not believe me; and one of them
putting his hand upon the ground, said
with great simplicity," have you really got
"such ground as this, to set your feet upon?”
A deeply rooted idea, that the whites pur-
chase Negroes for the purpose of devouring
them, or of selling them to others, that they
may be devoured hereafter, naturally makes
the slaves contemplate a journey towards
the Coast with great terror; insomuch that
the Slatees are forced to keep them con-
stantly in irons, and watch them very close-
ly, to prevent their escape. They are com-
monly secured, by putting the right leg of
one, and the left of another, into the same
pair of fetters. By supporting the fetters
with a string, they can walk, though very
slowly. Every four slaves are likewise
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fastened together by the necks, with a strong
rope of twisted thongs; and in the night,
an additional pair of fetters is put on their
hands, and sometimes a light iron chain
passed round their necks.
Such of them as evince marks of discon-
tent, are secured in a different manner. A
thick billet of wood is cut about three feet
long, and a smooth notch being made upon
one side of it, the ankle of the slave is bolted
to the smooth part by means of a strong
iron staple, one prong of which passes on
each side of the ankle. All these fetters
and bolts are made from native iron; in
the present case they were put on by the
blacksmith as soon as the slaves arrived
from Kancaba, and were not taken off until
the morning on which the coffle departed
for Gambia.
In other respects, the treatment of the
slaves during their stay at Kamalia, was
far from being harsh or cruel. They were
led out in their fetters every morning, to
the shade of the tamarind tree, where they
were encouraged to play at games of hazard,
and sing diverting songs, to keep up their
spirits; for though some of them sustained
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
477
the hardships of their situation with amaz-
ing fortitude, the greater part were very
much dejected, and would sit all day in
a sort of sullen melancholy, with their eyes
fixed upon the ground. In the evening,
their irons were examined, and their hand
fetters put on; after which they were con-
ducted into two large huts, where they
were guarded during the night by Karfa's
domestic slaves. But notwithstanding all
this, about a weeek after their arrival, one
of the slaves had the address to procure a
small knife, with which he opened the rings
of his fetters, cut the rope, and made his
escape: more of them would probably
have got off, had they assisted each other;
but the slave no sooner found himself at
liberty, than he refused to stop, and assist
in breaking the chain which was fastened
round the necks of his companions.
As all the Slatees and slaves belonging
to the coffle were now assembled, either at
Kamalia, or some of the neighbouring vil-
lages, it might have been expected that we
should have set out immediately for Gam-
bia; but though the day of our departure
was frequently fixed, it was always found
478
TRAVELS IN THE
expedient to change it. Some of the people
had not prepared their dry provisions;
others had gone to visit their relations, or
collect some trifling debts; and, last of all,
it was necessary to consult whether the day
would be a lucky one. On account of one
of these, or other such causes, our depar-
ture was put off, day after day, until the
month of February was far advanced;
after which all the Slatees agreed to re-
main in their present quarters, until the
fast moon was over. And here I may re-
mark, that loss of time, is an object of no
great importance in the eyes of a Negro.
If he has any thing of consequence to per-
form, it is a matter of indifference to him
whether he does it to-day or to-morrow,
or a month or two hence: so long as he
can spend the present moment with any
degree of comfort, he gives himself very
little concern about the future.
The fast of Rhamadan was observed with
great strictness, by all the Bushreens; but,
instead of compelling me to follow their ex-
ample, as the Moors did on a similar occa-
sion, Karfa frankly told me that I was at liber-
ty to pursue my own inclination. In order,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
479
however, to manifest a respect for their reli-
gious opinions, I voluntarily fasted three days,
which was thought sufficient to screen me
from the reproachful epithet of Kafir. Dur-
ing the fast, all the Slatees belonging to the
coffle assembled every morning in Karfa's
house, where, the schoolmaster read to them
some religious lessons, from a large folio vo-
lume, the author of which was an Arab, of
the name of Sheiffa. In the evening, such of
the women as had embraced Mahomedanism
assembled, and said their prayers publicly
at the Misura. They were all dressed in
white, and went through the different
prostrations, prescribed by their religion,
with becoming solemnity. Indeed, during
the whole fast of Rhamadan, the Negroes.
behaved themselves with the greatest meek-
ness and humility; forming a striking con-
trast to the savage intolerance and brutal
bigotry, which at this period characterize
the Moors.
When the first month was almost at an
end, the Bushreens assembled at the Misura,
to watch for the appearance of the new
moon; but the evening being rather cloudy,
they were for sometime disappointed, and
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TRAVELS IN THE
a number of them had gone home with a
resolution to fast another day, when on a
sudden this delightful object showed her
sharp horns from behind a cloud, and was
welcomed with the clapping of hands, beat-
ing of drums, firing muskets, and other
marks of rejoicing. As this moon is rec-
koned extremely lucky, Karfa gave orders
that all the people belonging to the coffe
should immediately pack up their dry pro-
visions, and hold themselves in readiness;
and on the 16th of April, the Slatees held
a consultation, and fixed on the 19th of the
same month, as the day on which the coffle
should depart from Kamalia. This resolu-
tion freed me from much uneasiness; for
our departure had already been so long de-
ferred, that I was apprehensive it might
still be put off until the commencement of
the rainy season; and although Karfa be-
haved towards me with the greatest kind-
ness, I found my situation very unpleasant.
The Slatees were unfriendly to me; and
the trading Moors, who were at this time.
at Kamalia, continued to plot mischief
against me, from the first day of their
arrival. Under these circumstances, I
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
481
✔
reflected, that my life in a great measure
depended on the good opinion of an indi-
vidual, who was daily hearing malicious
stories concerning the Europeans; and I
could hardly expect that he would always
judge with impartiality between me and
his countrymen. Time had, indeed, re-
conciled me, in some degree, to their mode
of life; and a smoky hut, or a scanty sup-
per, gave me no great uneasiness; but I
became at last wearied out with a constant
state of alarm and anxiety, and felt a pain-
ful longing for the manifold blessings of
civilized society.
On the morning of the 17th, a circum-
stance occurred, which wrought a conside-
rable change in my favour. The three
trading Moors, who had lodged under Kar-
fa's protection, ever since their arrival at
Kamalia, and had gained the esteem of
all the Bushreens, by an appearance of
great sanctity, suddenly packed up their
effects, and, without once thanking Karfa
for his kindness towards them, marched
over the hills to Bala. Every one was as-
tonished at this unexpected removal; but
the affair was cleared up in the evening,
I i
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TRAVELS IN THE
by the arrival of the Fezzan merchant from
Kancaba (mentioned in p. 473); who as-
sured Karfa, that these Moors had bor-
rowed all their salt and goods from him,
and had sent for him to come to Kamalia,
and receive payment. When he was told
that they had fled to the westward, he
wiped a tear from each eye with the sleeve
of his cloak, and exclaimed, "these shir-
"rukas (robbers) are Mahomedans, but
"they are not men; they have robbed me
"of two hundred minkallies." From this
merchant, I received information of the
capture of our Mediterranean convoy by
the French, in October 1795-
April 19th. The long wished-for day
of our departure was at length arrived;
and the Slatees having taken the irons from
their slaves, assembled with them at the
door of Karfa's house, where the bundles
were all tied up, and every one had his
load assigned him. The coffle, on its de-
parture from Kamalia, consisted of twenty-
seven slaves for sale, the property of Karfa
and four other Slatees; but we were after-
wards joined by five at Maraboo, and three
at Bala; making in all thirty-five slaves.
1
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
488
The free men were fourteen in number,
but most of them had one or two wives,
and some domestic slaves; and the school-
master, who was now upon his return for
Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took
with him eight of his scholars, so that the
number of free people and domestic slaves
amounted to thirty-eight, and the whole
amount of the coffle was seventy-three.
Among the freemen were six Jilli keas
(singing men), whose musical talents were
frequently exerted either to divert our fa-
tigue, or obtain us a welcome from strangers.
When we departed from Kamalia, we were
followed for about half a mile, by most of
the inhabitants of the town, some of them
crying, and others shaking hands with their
relations, who were now about to leave
them; and when we had gained a piece of
rising ground, from which we had a view
of Kamalia, all the people belonging to the
coffle were ordered to sit down in one place,
with their faces towards the west, and the
townspeople were desired to sit down in
another place, with their faces towards
Kamalia. In this situation, the school-
master, with two of the principal Slatees,
Ii 2
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་
having taken their places between the two
parties, pronounced a long and solemn
prayer after which, they walked three
times round the coffle, making an im-
pression in the ground with the ends of
their spears, and muttering something by
way of charm. When this ceremony was
ended, all the people belonging to the
coffe sprang up, and without taking a for-
mal farewell of their friends, set forwards.
As many of the slaves had remained for
years in irons, the sudden exertion of walk-
ing quick, with heavy loads upon their
heads, occasioned spasmodic contractions
of their legs; and we had not proceeded
above a mile, before it was found necessary
to take two of them from the rope, and
allow them to walk more slowly until we
reached Maraboo, a walled village, where
some people were waiting to join the coffle.
Here we stopt about two hours, to allow
the strangers time to pack up their pro-
visions, and then continued our route to
Bala, which town we reached about four in
the afternoon. The inhabitants of Bala, at
this season of the year, subsist chiefly on
fish, which they take in great plenty from
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
485
the streams in the neighbourhood. We re-
mained here until the afternoon of the next
day, the 20th, when we proceeded to Wo-
rumbang, the frontier village of Manding
towards Jallonkadoo. As we proposed
shortly to enter the Jallonka Wilderness,
the people of this village furnished us with
great plenty of provisions; and on the
morning of the 21st, we entered the woods
to the westward of Worumbang. After
having travelled some little way, a consul-
tation was held, whether we should con-
tinue our route through the Wilderness, or
save one day's provisions by going to Kiny-
takooro, a town in Jallonkadoo. After de-
bating the matter for some time, it was
agreed that we should take the road for
Kinytakooro; but as that town was a long
day's journey distant, it was necessary to
take some refreshment. Accordingly every
person opened his provision bag, and brought
a handful or two of meal, to the place where
Karfa and the Slatees were sitting. When
every one had brought his quota, and the
whole was properly arranged in small gourd
shells, the schoolmaster offered up a short
prayer; the substance of which was, that
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TRAVELS IN THE
God and the holy Prophet might preserve
us from robbers and all bad people, that our
provisions might never fail us, nor our limbs
become fatigued. This ceremony being
ended, every one partook of the meal, and
drank a little water; after which we set
forward (rather running than walking),
until we came to the river Kokoro, a branch
of the Senegal, where we halted about ten
minutes. The banks of this river are very
high; and from the grass and brushwood
which had been left by the stream, it was
evident that at this place, the water had
risen more than twenty feet perpendicular,
during the rainy season. At this time it
was only a small stream, such as would
turn a mill, swarming with fish; and on
account of the number of crocodiles, and
the danger of being carried past the ford
by the force of the stream in the rainy sea-
son, it is called Kokoro (dangerous). From
this place we continued to travel with the
greatest expedition, and in the afternoon
crossed two small branches of the Kokoro.
About sunset we came in sight of Kinyta-
kooro, a considerable town, nearly square,
situated in the middle of a large and well
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
487
cultivated plain: before we entered the
town we halted, until the people who had
fallen behind came up. During this day's
travel, two slaves, a woman and a girl be-
longing to a Slatee of Bala, were so much
fatigued, that they could not keep up with
the coffie: they were severely whipped, and
dragged along until about three o'clock in
the afternoon, when they were both affected
with vomiting, by which it was discovered
that they had eaten clay. This practice is
by no means uncommon amongst the Ne-
groes; but whether it arises from a vitiated
appetite, or from a settled intention to de-
stroy themselves, I cannot affirm. They
were permitted to lie down in the woods,
and three people remained with them until
they had rested themselves; but they did
not arrive at the town until past midnight;
and were then so much exhausted, that the
Slatee gave up all thoughts of taking them
across the woods in their present condition,
and determined to return with them to Bala,
and wait for another opportunity.
As this was the first town beyond the
limits of Manding, greater etiquette than
usual was observed. Every person was
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TRAVELS IN THE
ordered to keep in his proper station, and we
marched towards the town in a sort of pro-
cession, nearly as follows. In front, five or
six singing men, all of them belonging to
the coffle; these were followed by the
other free people; then came the slaves
fastened in the usual way by a rope round
their necks, four of them to a rope, and a
man with a spear between each four; after
them came the domestic slaves, and in the
rear the women of free condition, wives of
the Slatees, &c. In this manner we pro-
ceeded, until we came within a hundred
yards of the gate; when the singing men
began a loud song, well calculated to flatter
the vanity of the inhabitants, by extolling
their known hospitality to strangers, and
their particular friendship for the Mandin-
goes. When we entered the town we pro-
ceeded to the Bentang, where the people
gathered round us to hear our dentegi (his-
tory); this was related publicly by two of
the singing men: they enumerated every
little circumstance which had happened to
the coffle; beginning with the events of
the present day, and relating every thing,
in a backward series, until they reached
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
489
Kamalia. When this history was ended,
the master of the town gave them a small
present; and all the people of the coffle,
both free and enslaved, were invited by
some person or other, and accommodated
with lodging and provisions for the night.
490
TRAVELS IN THE
1
CHAPTER XXV.
The Coffle crosses the Jallonka Wilderness.-
Miserable Fate of one of the female Slaves;
-arrives at Sooseeta;-proceeds to Manna.
-Some Account of the Jallonkas.-Crosses
the main Stream of the Senegal.-Bridge
of a singular Construction.-Arrives at
Malacotta.-Remarkable Conduct of the
King of the Faloffs.
WE
E continued at Kinytakooro until noon
of the 22d of April, when we removed to a
village about seven miles to the westward;
the inhabitants of which being apprehen-
sive of hostilities from the Foulahs of Foola-
doo, were at this time employed in con-
structing small temporary huts among the
rocks, on the side of a high hill close to the
village. The situation was almost impreg-
nable, being every where surrounded with
high precipices, except on the eastern side,
where the natives had left a pathway suffi-
cient to allow one person at a time to ascend.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
491
1
Upon the brow of the hill, immediately over
this path, I observed several heaps of large
loose stones, which the people told me were
intended to be thrown down upon the Fou-
lahs, if they should attempt the hill.
At daybreak, on the 23d, we departed
from this village, and entered the Jallonka
Wilderness. We passed, in the course of
the morning, the ruins of two small towns,
which had lately been burnt by the Foulahs.
The fire must have been very intense; for
I observed that the walls of many of the
huts were slightly vitrified, and appeared
at a distance as if covered with a red var-
nish. About ten o'clock we came to the
river. Wonda, which is somewhat larger
than the river Kokoro; but the stream was
at this time rather muddy, which Karfa
assured me was occasioned by amazing
shoals of fish. They were indeed seen in
all directions, and in such abundance, that
I fancied the water itself tasted and smelt
fishy. As soon as we had crossed the river,
Karfa gave orders that all the people of the
coffle should in future keep close together,
and travel in their proper station: the
guides and young men were accordingly
492
TRAVELS IN THE
placed in the van, the women and slaves in
the centre, and the free men in the rear.
In this order, we travelled with uncommon
expedition, through a woody, but beautiful
country, interspersed with a pleasing variety
of hill and dale, and abounding with par-
tridges, guinea-fowls, and deer, until sun-
set; when we arrived at a most romantic
stream called Co-meissang. My arms and
neck having been exposed to the sun during
the whole day, and irritated by the rubbing
of my dress in walking, were now very
much inflamed and covered with blisters;
and I was happy to embrace the opportu-
nity, while the coffle rested on the bank of
this river, to bathe myself in the stream.
This practice, together with the cool of the
evening, much diminished the inflamma-
tion. About three miles to the westward
of the Co-meissang we halted in a thick
wood, and kindled our fires for the night.
We were all, by this time, very much fa-
tigued; having, as I judged, travelled this
day thirty miles; but no person was heard
to complain. Whilst supper was preparing,
Karfa made one of the slaves break some
branches from the trees for my bed. When
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
493
we had finished our supper of kouskous,
moistened with some boiling water, and
put the slaves in irons, we all lay down to
sleep; but we were frequently disturbed in
the night by the howling of wild beasts;
and we found the small brown ants very
troublesome.
1
16
April 24th. Before daybreak the Bush-
reens said their morning prayers, and most
of the free people drank a little moening (a
sort of gruel), part of which was likewise
given to such of the slaves as appeared least
able to sustain the fatigues of the day. One
of Karfa's female slaves was very sulky,
and when some gruel was offered to her,
she refused to drink it. As soon as day
dawned we set out, and travelled the whole
morning over a wild and rocky country, by
which my feet were very much bruised ; and
I was sadly apprehensive that I should not
be able to keep up with the coffe during
the day; but I was, in a great measure,
relieved from this anxiety, when I observed
that others were more exhausted than my-
self. In particular, the woman slave, who
had refused victuals in the morning, began
now to lag behind, and complain dreadfully
494
TRAVELS IN THE
·
of pains in her legs. Her load was taken
from her, and given to another slave, and
she was ordered to keep in the front of the
coffle. About eleven o'clock, as we were
resting by a small rivulet, some of the people
discovered a hive of bees in a hollow tree,
and they were proceeding to obtain the
honey, when the largest swarm I ever be-
held, flew out, and attacking the people of
the coffle, made us fly in all directions. I
took the alarm first, and I believe was the
only person who escaped with impunity.
When our enemies thought fit to desist
from pursuing us, and every person was
employed in picking out the stings he had
received, it was discovered that the poor
woman abovementioned, whose name was
Nealee, was not come up; and as many of
the slaves in their retreat had left their
bundles behind them, it became necessary
for some persons to return, and bring them.
In order to do this with safety, fire was set
to the grass, a considerable way to the
eastward of the hive, and the wind driving
the fire furiously along, the party pushed
through the smoke, and recovered the bun-
dles. They likewise brought with them
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
495
poor Nealee, whom they found lying by
the rivulet. She was very much exhausted,
and had crept to the stream, in hopes to
defend herself from the bees by throwing
water over her body; but this proved in-
effectual; for she was stung in the most
dreadful manner.
When the Slatees had picked out the
stings as far as they could, she was washed
with water, and then rubbed with bruised
leaves; but the wretched woman obsti-
nately refused to proceed any farther; de-
claring, that she would rather die than walk
another step.
As entreaties and threats
were used in vain, the whip was at length
applied and after bearing patiently a few
strokes, she started up, and walked with
tolerable expedition for four or five hours
longer, when she made an attempt to run
away from the coffle, but was so very weak,
that she fell down in the grass. Though
she was unable to rise, the whip was a
second time applied, but without effect;
upon
which Karfa desired two of the Slatees
to place her upon the ass which carried our
dry provisions; but she could not sit erect;
and the ass being very refractory, it was
496
TRAVELS IN THE
1
}
found impossible to carry her forward in
that manner. The Slatees however were
unwilling to abandon her, the day's journey
being nearly ended; they therefore made
a sort of litter of bamboo canes, upon which
she was placed, and tied on it with slips of
bark this litter was carried upon the heads
of two slaves, one walking before the other,
and they were followed by two others, who
relieved them occasionally. In this manner
the woman was carried forward until it was
dark, when we reached a stream of water,
at the foot of a high hill called Gankaran-
Kooro; and here we stopt for the night,
and set about preparing our supper. As
we had only eat one handful of meal since
the preceding night, and travelled all day
in a hot sun, many of the slaves, who had
loads upon their heads, were very much
fatigued; and some of them snapt their
fingers, which among the Negroes is a sure
sign of desperation. The Slatees imme-
diately put them all in irons; and such of
them as had evinced signs of great despon-
dency, were kept apart from the rest, and
had their hands tied. In the morning they
were found greatly recovered.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
497
April 25th. At daybreak poor Nealee
was awakened; but her limbs were now
become so stiff and painful, that she could
neither walk nor stand; she was therefore
lifted, like a corpse, upon the back of the
ass; and the Slatees endeavoured to secure
her in that situation, by fastening her hands
together under the ass's neck, and her feet
under the belly, with long slips of bark; but
the ass was so very unruly, that no sort of
treatment could induce him to proceed with
his load; and as Nealee made no exertion
to prevent herself from falling, she was
quickly thrown off, and had one of her legs
much bruised. Every attempt to carry her
forward being thus found ineffectual, the
general cry of the coffle was, kang-tegi,
kang-tegi, “cut her throat, cut her throat;"
an operation I did not wish to see perform-
ed, and therefore marched onwards with
the foremost of the coffle. I had not walked
above a mile, when one of Karfa's domestic
slaves came up to me, with poor Nealee's
garment upon the end of his bow, and ex-
claimed Nealee affeeleeta (Nealee is lost.)
I asked him whether the Slatees had given
him the garment as a reward for cutting
K k
498
TRAVELS IN THE
her throat; he replied, that Karfa and
the schoolmaster would not consent to
that measure, but had left her on the
road; where undoubtedly she soon perish-
ed, and was probably devoured by wild
beasts.
The sad fate of this wretched woman,
notwithstanding the outcry before men-
tioned, made a strong impression on the
minds of the whole coffle, and the school-
master fasted the whole of the ensuing day,
in consequence of it. We proceeded in deep
silence, and soon afterward crossed the river
Furkoomah, which was about as large as
the river Wonda. We now travelled with
great expedition, every one being appre-
hensive he might otherwise meet with the
fate of poor Nealee. It was however with
great difficulty that I could keep up, although
I threw away my spear, and every thing
that could in the least obstruct me. About
noon we saw a large herd of elephants, but
they suffered us to pass unmolested, and in
the evening we halted near a thicket of
bamboo, but found no water; so that we
were forced to proceed four miles farther,
to a small stream, where we stopt for the
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
499
night. We had marched this day, as I
judged, about twenty-six miles.
April 26th. This morning two of the
schoolmaster's pupils complained much of
pains in their legs, and one of the slaves
walked lame, the soles of his feet being very
much blistered and inflamed; we proceeded,
notwithstanding, and about eleven o'clock
began to ascend a rocky hill called Boki-
Kooro, and it was past two in the afternoon
before we reached the level ground on the
other side. This was the most rocky road
we had yet encountered, and it hurt our
feet much. In a short time we arrived at a
pretty large river called Boki, which we
forded it ran smooth and clear, over a bed
of whinstone. About a mile to the west-
ward of the river, we came to a road which
leads to the north-east towards Gadou, and
seeing the marks of many horses' feet upon
the soft sand, the Slatees conjectured that
a party of plunderers had lately rode that
way, to fall upon some town of Gadou;
and lest they should discover, upon their
return, that we had passed, and attempt to
pursue us by the marks of our feet, the coffe
was ordered to disperse, and travel in a loose
Kk 2
500
TRAVELS IN THE
manner through the high grass and bushes.
A little before it was dark, having crossed
the ridge of hills to the westward of the
river Boki, we came to a well called cullong
qui (white sand well), and here we rested
for the night.
April 27th. We departed from the well
early in the morning, and walked on, with
the greatest alacrity, in hopes of reaching
a town before night. The road, during the
forenoon, led through extensive thickets of
dry bamboos. About two o'clock we came
to a stream called Nunkolo, where we were
each of us regaled with a handful of meal,
which, according to a superstitious custom,
was not to be eaten until it was first moist-
ened with water from this stream. About
four o'clock we reached Sooseeta, a small
Jallonka village, situated in the district of
Kullo, which comprehends all that tract of
country lying along the banks of the Black
river, or main branch of the Senegal. These
were the first human habitations we had
seen, since we left the village to the west-
ward of Kinytakooro; having travelled in
the course of the last five days, upwards of
one hundred miles. Here, after a great
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
501
deal of entreaty, we were provided with
huts to sleep in; but the master of the vil-
lage plainly told us that he could not give
us any provisions, as there had lately been
a great scarcity in this part of the country.
He assured us, that before they had gathered
in their present crops, the whole inhabitants
of Kullo had been for twenty-nine days
without tasting corn; during which time,
they supported themselves entirely upon
the yellow powder which is found in the
pods of the nitta, so called by the natives, a
species of mimosa; and upon the seeds of
the bamboo cane, which, when properly
pounded and dressed, taste very much like
rice. As our dry provisions were not yet
exhausted, a considerable quantity of kous-
kous was dressed for supper, and many of
the villagers were invited to take part of
the repast; but they made a very bad re-
turn for this kindness; for in the night
they seized upon one of the schoolmaster's
boys, who had fallen asleep under the Ben-
tang tree, and carried him away. The boy
fortunately awoke before he was far from
the village, and setting up a loud scream,
the man who carried him, put his hand
502
TRAVELS IN THE
upon his mouth, and ran with him into the
woods; but afterward understanding that
he belonged to the schoolmaster, whose
place of residence is only three day's jour-
ney distant, he thought, I suppose, that he
could not retain him as a slave without the
schoolmaster's knowledge; and therefore
stripped off the boy's clothes, and permitted
him to return.
April 28th. Early in the morning we de-
parted from Sooseeta, and about ten o'clock
came to an unwalled town called Manna;
the inhabitants of which were employed in
collecting the fruit of the nitta trees, which
are very numerous in this neighbourhood.
The pods are long and narrow, and con-
tain a few black seeds enveloped in the fine
mealy powder before mentioned; the meal
itself is of a bright yellow colour, resem-
bling the flour of sulphur, and has a sweet
mucilaginous taste: when eaten by itself it
is clammy, but when mixed with milk or
water, it constitutes a very pleasant and
nourishing article of diet.
The language of the people of Manna, is
the same that is spoken all over that exten-
sive and hilly country called Jallonkadoo.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
503
Some of the words have a great affinity to
the Mandingo, but the natives themselves
consider it as a distinct language: their
numerals are these,
One
Kidding.
Two
Fidding.
Three
Sarra.
Four
Nani.
Five
Soolo.
Six
Seni.
Seven
Soolo ma fidding.
Eight
Soolo ma sarra.
Nine
Soolo ma nani.
Ten
Nuff.
The Jallonkas, like the Mandingoes, are
governed by a number of petty chiefs, who
are, in a great measure, independent of each
other they have no common sovereign;
and the chiefs are seldom upon such terms
of friendship as to assist each other, even
in war time. The chief of Manna, with a
number of his people, accompanied us to
the banks of the Bafing, or Black river (a
principal branch of the Senegal) which we
crossed upon a bridge of bamboos, of a very
I
504
TRAVELS IN THE
L
singular construction. The river at this
place is smooth and deep, and has very little
current. Two tall trees, when tied together
by the tops, are sufficiently long to reach
from one side to the other; the roots rest-
ing upon the rocks, and the tops floating in
the water. When a few trees have been
placed in this direction, they are covered
with dry bamboos, so as to form a floating
bridge, with a sloping gangway at each
end, where the trees rest upon the rocks.
This bridge is carried away every year by
the swelling of the river in the rainy season,
and is constantly rebuilt by the inhabitants
of Manna, who, on that account, expect a
small tribute from every passenger.
In the afternoon we passed several vil-
lages, at none of which could we procure a
lodging; and in the twilight we received
information that two hundred Jallonkas had
assembled near a town called Melo, with a
view to plunder the coffle. This induced us
to alter our course, and we travelled with
great secrecy until midnight, when we ap-
proached a town called Koba. Before we
entered the town, the names of all the
people belonging to the coffle were called
JC Duren, del, on a cheech by M Park
4

A VIEW OF A BRIDGE OVER THE BATING OR BLACK RIVER.
Engraved by R. C. Wilson
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
505
over, and a freeman and three slaves were
found to be missing. Every person im-
mediately concluded that the slaves had
murdered the freeman, and made their
escape. It was therefore agreed that six
people should go back as far as the last
village, and endeavour to find his body, or
collect some information concerning the
slaves. In the meantime the coffle was
ordered to lie concealed in a cotton field
near a large nitta tree, and nobody to speak
except in a whisper. It was towards morn-
ing before the six men returned, having
heard nothing of the man or the slaves.
As none of us had tasted victuals for the
last twenty-four hours, it was agreed that
we should go into Koba, and endeavour to
procure some provisions. We accordingly
entered the town before it was quite day,
and Karfa purchased from the chief man,
for three strings of beads, a considerable
quantity of ground nuts, which we roasted
and eat for breakfast: we were afterwards
provided with huts, and rested here for the
day.
About eleven o'clock, to our great joy
and surprise, the freeman and slaves, who
506
TRAVELS IN THE
:
had parted from the coffle the preceding
night, entered the town. One of the slaves,
it seems, had hurt his foot, and the night
being very dark, they soon lost sight of the
coffle. The freeman, as soon as he found
himself alone with the slaves, was aware
of his own danger, and insisted on putting
them irons. The slaves were at first rather
Th
unwilling to submit, but when he threatened
to stab them one by one with his spear,
they made no further resistance; and he
remained with them among the bushes until
morning, when he let them out of irons,
and came to the town in hopes of hearing
which route the coffle had taken. The in-
formation that we received concerning the
Jallonkas, who intended to rob the coffle,
was this day confirmed, and we were forced
to remain here until the afternoon of the
goth: when Karfa hired a number of people
to protect us, and we proceeded to a village
called Tinkingtang. Departing from this
village on the day following, we crossed a
high ridge of mountains to the west of the
Black river, and travelled over a rough
stony country until sunset, when we arrived
at Lingicotta, a small village in the district
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
507
of Woradoo. Here we shook out the last
handful of meal from our dry provision
bags; this being the second day (since we
crossed the Black river) that we had tra-
velled from morning until night, without
tasting one morsel of food.
May 2d. We departed from Lingicotta;
but the slaves being very much fatigued, we
halted for the night at a village about nine
miles to the westward, and procured some
provisions through the interest of the school-
master; who now sent forward a messenger
to Malacotta, his native town, to inform his
friends of his arrival in the country, and to
desire them to provide the necessary quan-
tity of victuals to entertain the coffe for
two or three days.
May 3d. We set out for Malacotta, and
about noon arrived at a village, near a con-
siderable stream of water which flows to
the westward; here we determined to stop
for the return of the messenger which had
been sent to Malacotta the day before; and
as the natives assured me there were no
crocodiles in this stream, I went and bathed
myself. Very few people here can swim;
for they came in numbers to dissuade me
508
TRAVELS IN THE
from venturing into a pool, where they
said the water would come over my head.
About two o'clock the messenger returned
from Malacotta; and the schoolmaster's
elder brother being impatient to see him,
came along with the messenger to meet
him at this village. The interview between
the two brothers, who had not seen each
other for nine years, was very natural and
affecting. They fell upon each other's neck,
and it was sometime before either of them
could speak. At length, when the school-
master had a little recovered himself, he
took his brother by the hand, and turning
round, "This is the man" (said he, point-
ing to Karfa) “who has been my father in
Manding; I would have pointed him out
"sooner to you, but my heart was too
"full."
66
We reached Malacotta in the evening,
where we were well received. This is an
unwalled town; the huts for the most part
are made of split cane, twisted into a sort
of wicker-work, and plastered over with
mud. Here we remained three days, and
were each day presented with a bullock
from the schoolmaster; we were likewise
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
509
well entertained by the townspeople, who
appear to be very active and industrious.
They make very good soap, by boiling
ground nuts in water, and then adding a
ley of wood ashes. They likewise manufac-
facture excellent iron, which they carry to
Bondou to barter for salt. A party of the
townspeople had lately returned from a
trading expedition of this kind, and brought
information concerning a war between Al-
mami Abdulkader, King of Foota Torra,
and Damel, King of the Jaloffs. The events
of this war soon became a favourite subject
with the singing men, and the common
topic of conversation in all the kingdoms
bordering upon the Senegal and Gambia;
and as the account is somewhat singular, I
shall here abridge it for the reader's infor-
mation. The King of Foota Torra, inflamed
with a zeal for propagating his religion,
had sent an embassy to Damel, similar to
that which he had sent to Kasson, as related
in page 118. The ambassador, on the pre-
sent occasion, was accompanied by two of
the principal Bushreens, who carried each
a large knife, fixed on the top of a long
pole. As soon as he had procured admission
1
510
TRAVELS IN THE
into the presence of Damel, and announced
the pleasure of his sovereign, he ordered
the Bushreens to present the emblems of
his mission. The two knives were accord-
ingly laid before Damel, and the ambassador
explained himself as follows: "With this
r
knife, (said he) Abdulkader will conde-
"scend to shave the head of Damel, if
"Damel will embrace the Mahomedan
faith; and with this other knife, Abdul-
CC
kader will cut the throat of Damel, if
"Damel refuses to embrace it :-take your
"choice." Damel coolly told the ambas-
sador that he had no choice to make: he
neither chose to have his head shaved, nor
his throat cut; and with this answer the
ambassador was civilly dismissed. Abdul-
kader took his measures accordingly, and
with a powerful army invaded Damel's
country. The inhabitants of the towns and
villages filled up their wells, destroyed their
provisions, carried off their effects, and
abandoned their dwellings, as he approach-
ed. By this means he was led on from
place to place, until he had advanced three
days' journey into the country of the Jaloffs.
He had, indeed, met with no opposition;
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
511
but his army had suffered so much from the
scarcity of water, that several of his men
had died by the way. This induced him
to direct his march towards a watering
place in the woods, where his men, having
quenched their thirst, and being overcome
with fatigue, lay down carelessly to sleep
among the bushes. In this situation they
were attacked by Damel before day break,
and completely routed. Many of them were
trampled to death as they lay asleep, by the
Jaloff horses; others were killed in attempt-
ing to make their escape; and a still greater
number were taken prisoners. Among the
latter, was Abdulkader himself. This ambi-
tious, or rather frantic prince, who, but a
month before had sent the threatening mes-
sage to Damel, was now himself led into his
presence, a miserable captive. The beha-
viour of Damel, on this occasion, is never
mentioned by the singing men, but in
terms of the highest approbation; and it
was indeed, so extraordinary, in an African
prince, that the reader may find it difficult
to give credit to the recital. When his
royal prisoner was brought before him in
irons, and thrown upon the ground, the
512
TRAVELS IN THE
magnanimous Damel, instead of setting his
foot
upon his neck, and stabbing him with
his spear, according to custom in such cases,
addressed him as follows. Abdulkader,
(C
"answer me this question. If the chance
"of war had placed me in your situation,
"and you in mine, how would you have
"treated me?" "I would have thrust my
66 spear into your heart," returned Abdul-
kader with great firmness; " and I know
"that a similar fate awaits me." "Not so,
(said Damel) my spear is indeed red with
"the blood of your subjects killed in battle,
" and I could now give it a deeper stain,
66
66
by dipping it in your own; but this
"would not build up my towns, nor bring
"to life the thousands who fell in the woods.
"I will not therefore kill you in cold blood,
"but I will retain you as my slave, until I
perceive that your presence in your own
66
66
66
kingdom will be no longer dangerous to
your neighbours; and then I will consi-
"der of the proper way of disposing of you."
Abdulkader was accordingly retained, and
worked as a slave, for three months; at the
end of which period, Damel listened to the
solicitations of the inhabitants of Foota
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
513
Torra, and restored to them their king.
Strange as this story may appear, I have
no doubt of the truth of it; it was told me
at Malacotta by the Negroes; it was after-
wards related to me by the Europeans on
the Gambia; by some of the French at
Goree; and confirmed by nine slaves, who
were taken prisoners along with Abdulka-
der, by the watering place in the woods,
and carried in the same ship with me to
the West Indies.
LI
514
TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Caravan proceeds to Konkadoo, and
crosses the Falemé River.- Its Arrival
at Baniserile, Kirwani, and Tambacunda.
-Incidents on the Road.A matrimonial
Case. The Caravan proceeds through
many Towns and Villages, and arrives at
at length on the Banks of the Gambia,-
passes through Medina, the Capital of
Woolli, and finally stops at findey. —
The Author, accompanied by Karfa, pro-
ceeds to Pisania. - Various Occurrences
previous to his Departure from Africa-
takes his Passage in an American Ship.-
Short Account of his Voyage to Great
Britain by Way of the West Indies.
N
On the 7th of May, we departed from
Malacotta, and having crossed the Ba lee,
65
Honey river," a branch of the Senegal,
we arrived in the evening at a walled town
called Bintingala; where we rested two
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
515
days. From thence, in one day more, we
proceeded to Dindikoo, a small town situated
at the bottom of a high ridge of hills, from
which this district is named Konkadoo," the
country of mountains." These hills are
very productive of gold. I was shewn a
small quantity of this metal, which had
been lately collected: the grains were
about the usual size, but much flatter than
those of Manding, and were found in white
quartz, which had been broken to pieces
by hammers. At this town I met with a
Negro, whose hair and skin were of a dull
white colour. He was of that sort which
are called in the Spanish West Indies Albi-
nos, or white Negroes. The skin is cada-
verous and unsightly, and the natives con-
sidered this complexion (I believe truly) as
the effect of disease.
May 11th. At daybreak we departed
from Dindikoo, and after a toilsome day's
travel, arrived in the evening at Satadoo,
the capital of a district of the same name.
This town was formerly of considerable
extent; but many families had left it in
consequence of the predatory incursions
of the Foulahs of Foota Jalla, who made
L12
516
TRAVELS IN THE
it a practice to come secretly through the
woods, and carry off people from the corn-
fields, and even from the wells near the
town. In the afternoon of the 12th, we
crossed the Falemé river, the same which
I had formerly crossed at Bondou in my
journey eastward. This river, at this sea-
son of the year, is easily forded at this
place, the stream being only about two
feet deep. The water is very pure, and
flows rapidly over a bed of sand and gra-
vel. We lodged for the night at a small
village called Medina, the sole property of
a Mandingo merchant, who, by a long
intercourse with Europeans, has been in-
duced to adopt some of their customs. His
victuals were served up in pewter dishes, and
even his houses were built after the fashion
of the English houses on the Gambia.
May 13th. In the morning, as we were
preparing to depart, a coffle of slaves be-
longing to some Serawoolli traders, crossed
the river, and agreed to proceed with us to
Baniserile, the capital of Dentila; a very
long day's journey from this place. We
according set out together, and travelled
with great expedition, through the woods,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
517
until noon; when one of the Serawoolli
slaves dropt the load from his head, for
which he was smartly whipped. The load
was replaced; but he had not proceeded
above a mile before he let it fall a second
time, for which he received the same punish-
ment. After this he travelled in great pain
until about two o'clock, when we stopt to
breathe a little, by a pool of water, the day
being remarkably hot. The poor slave was
now so completely exhausted that his master
was obliged to release him from the rope,
for he lay motionless on the ground. A
Serawoolli therefore undertook to remain
with him, and endeavour to bring him to
the town during the cool of the night; in
the meanwhile we continued our route, and
after a very hard day's travel, arrived at
Baniserile late in the evening.
One of our Slatees was a native of this
place, from which he had been absent three
years. This man invited me to go with
him to his house; at the gate of which his
friends met him, with many expressions of
joy; shaking hands with him, embracing
him, and singing and dancing before him.
As soon as he had seated himself upon a
518
TRAVELS IN THE
mat, by the threshold of his door, a young
woman (his intended bride) brought a little
water in a calabash, and kneeling down be-
fore him, desired him to wash his hands:
when he had done this, the girl with a tear
of joy sparkling in her eyes, drank the
water; this being considered the greatest
proof she could give him of her fidelity and
attachment. About eight o'clock the same
evening, the Serawoolli, who had been left
in the woods to take care of the fatigued
slave, returned and told us that he was dead:
the general opinion, however, was that he
himself had killed him, or left him to perish
on the road; for the Sera woollies are said
to be infinitely more cruel in their treat-
ment of slaves than the Mandingoes. We
remained at Baniserile two days, in order to
purchase native iron, Shea-butter, and some
other articles for sale on the Gambia; and
here the Slatee who had invited me to his
house, and who possessed three slaves, part
of the coffle, having obtained information
that the price on the Coast was very low,
determined to separate from us, and remain
with his slaves, where he was, until an
opportunity should offer of disposing of
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
519
them to advantage; giving us to under-
stand that he should complete his nuptials,
with the young woman before mentioned,
in the mean time.
May 16th. We departed from Banise-
rile, and travelled through thick woods
until noon, when we saw, at a distance,
the town of Julifunda, but did not approach
it; as we proposed to rest for the night at
a large town called Kirwani, which we
reached about four o'clock in the after-
noon. This town stands in a valley, and
the country, for more than a mile round it,
is cleared of wood, and well cultivated. The
inhabitants appear to be very active and
industrious, and seem to have carried the
system of agriculture to some degree of per-
fection; for they collect the dung of their
cattle into large heaps during the dry
season, for the purpose of manuring their
land with it at the proper time. I saw
nothing like this in any other part of
Africa. Near the town are several smelt-
ing furnaces, from which the natives obtain
very good iron. They afterwards hammer
the metal into small bars, about a foot in
length and two inches in breadth, one of
520
TRAVELS IN THE
which bars is sufficient to make two Man-
dingo corn hoes. On the morning after our
arrival, we were visited by a Slatee of this
place, who informed Karfa, that among
some slaves he had lately purchased, was
a native of Foota Jalla; and as that coun-
try was at no great distance, he could not
safely employ him in the labours of the
field, lest he should effect his escape. The
Slatee was therefore desirous of exchanging
this slave for one of Karfa's, and offered
some cloth and Shea-butter, to induce
Karfa to comply with the proposal, which
was accepted. The Slatee thereupon sent
a boy to order the slave in question to bring
him a few ground nuts. The poor creature
soon afterwards entered the court in which
we were sitting, having no suspicion of
what was negotiating, until the master
caused the gate to be shut, and told him
to sit down. The slave now saw his danger,
and perceiving the gate to be shut upon
him, threw down the nuts, and jumped over
the fence. He was immediately pursued
and overtaken by the Slatees, who brought
him back, and secured him in irons, after
which one of Karfa's slaves was released
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
521
and delivered in exchange. The unfortu-
nate captive was at first very much dejected,
but in the course of a few days his melan-
choly gradually subsided; and he became
at length as cheerful as any of his compa-
nions.
Departing from Kirwani on the morning
of the 20th, we entered the Tenda Wilder-
ness of two days' journey. The woods were
very thick, and the country shelved towards
the south-west. About ten o'clock we met
a coffle of twenty-six people, and seven
loaded asses, returning from the Gambia.
Most of the men were armed with muskets,
and had broad belts of scarlet cloth over
their shoulders, and European hats upon
their heads. They informed us that there
was very little demand for slaves on the
Coast, as no vessel had arrived for some
months past. On hearing this, the Sera-
woollies, who had travelled with us from
the Falemé river, separated themselves and
their slaves from the coffle. They had not,
they said, the means of maintaining their
slaves in Gambia, until a vessel should ar-
rive; and were unwilling to sell them to
disadvantage; they therefore departed to
1
522
TRAVELS IN THE
the northward for Kajaaga. We continued
our rout through the Wilderness, and tra-
velled all day through a rugged country,
covered with extensive thickets of bamboo.
At sunset, to our great joy, we arrived at
a pool of water near a large tabba tree,
whence the place is called Tabba-gee, and
here we rested a few hours. The water at
this season of the year is by no means plen-
tiful in these woods; and as the days were
insufferably hot, Karfa proposed to travel
in the night. Accordingly, about eleven
o'clock, the slaves were taken out of their
irons, and the people of the coffle received
orders to keep close together; as well to
prevent the slaves from attempting to es-
cape, as on account of the wild beasts. We
travelled with great alacrity until daybreak,
when it was discovered that a free woman
had parted from the coffle in the night:
her name was called until the woods re-
sounded; but no answer being given, we
conjectured that she had either mistaken
the road, or that a lion had seized her un-
perceived. At length it was agreed that
four people should go back a few miles to a
small rivulet, where some of the coffe had
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
523
had stopt to drink, as we passed it in the
night; and that the coffle should wait for
their return. The sun was about an hour
high before the people came back with the
woman, whom they found lying fast asleep
by the stream. We now resumed our jour-
ney, and about eleven o'clock reached a
walled town called Tambacunda, where we
were well received. Here we remained
four days, on account of a palaver which
was held on the following occasion: Modi
Lemina, one of the Slatees belonging to the
coffle, had formerly married a woman of
this town, who had borne him two chil-
dren; he afterwards went to Manding,
and remained there eight years, without
sending any account of himself, during all
that time, to his deserted wife; who, seeing
no prospect of his return, at the end of three
years had married another man, to whom
she had likewise borne two children. Le-
mina now claimed his wife; but the second
husband refused to deliver her up; insist-
ing that by the laws of Africa, when a man
has been three years absent from his wife,
without giving her notice of his being alive,
the woman is at liberty to marry again.
524
TRAVELS IN THE
After all the circumstances had been fully
investigated in an assembly of the chief
men, it was determined that the wife
should make her choice, and be at liberty
either to return to the first husband, or
continue with the second, as she alone
should think proper. Favourable as this
determination was to the lady, she found
it a difficult matter to make up her mind,
and requested time for consideration: but
I think I could perceive that first love would
carry the day. Lemina was indeed some-
what older than his rival, but he was also
much richer. What weight this circum-
stance had in the scale of his wife's affec-
tions, I pretend not to say.
On the morning of the 26th, as we de-
parted from Tambacunda, Karfa observed
to me that there were no Shea trees farther
to the westward than this town. I had col-
lected and brought with me from Manding
the leaves and flowers of this tree; but they
were so greatly bruised on the road that I
thought it best to gather another specimen
at this place. The appearance of the fruit
evidently places the Shea tree in the natural
order of sapotæ, and it has some resem-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
525
blance to the mudhuca tree, described by
Lieutenant Charles Hamilton, in the Asiatic
Researches, Vol. I. p. 3oo. About one
o'clock we reached Sibikillin, a walled vil-
lage, but the inhabitants having the cha-
racter of inhospitality towards strangers,
and of being much addicted to theft, we
did not think proper to enter the gate. We
rested a short time under a tree, and then
continued our route until it was dark, when
we halted for the night by a small stream
running towards the Gambia. Next day
the road led over a wild and rocky country,
every where rising into hills, and abound-
ing with monkeys and wild beasts. In the
rivulets among the hills, we found plenty of
fish. This was a very hard day's journey,
and it was not until sunset, that we reached
the village of Koomboo, near to which are
the ruins of a large town formerly destroyed
by war. The inhabitants of Koomboo, like
those of Sibikillin, have so bad a reputation,
that strangers seldom lodge in the village;
we accordingly rested for the night in the
fields, where we erected temporary huts for
our protection, there being great appear-
ance of rain.
526
TRAVELS IN THE
May 28th. We departed from Koomboo,
and slept at a Foulah town about seven
miles to the westward; from which on the
day following, having crossed a consider-
able branch of the Gambia, called Neola
Koba, we reached a well inhabited part of
the country. Here are several towns within
sight of each other, collectively called
Tenda, but each is distinguished also by
its particular name. We lodged at one of
them called Koba Tenda, where we remain-
ed the day following, in order to procure
provisions for our support in crossing the
Simbani woods. On the goth we reached
Jallacotta; a considerable town, but much
infested by Foulah banditti, who come
through the woods from Bondou, and steal
every thing they can lay their hands on. A
few days before our arrival, they had stolen
twenty head of cattle, and on the day fol-
lowing made a second attempt; but were
beaten off, and one of them taken prisoner.
Here, one of the slaves belonging to the
coffle, who had travelled with great diffi-
culty for the last three days, was found
unable to proceed any farther: his master
(a singing man) proposed therefore to
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
527
exchange him for a young girl, belonging to
one of the townspeople. The poor girl was
ignorant of her fate, until the bundles were
all tied up in the morning, and the coffe
ready to depart; when, coming with some
other young women to see the coffle set
out, her master took her by the hand, and
delivered her to the singing man. Never was
a face of serenity more suddenly changed
into one of the deepest distress: the terror
she manifested on having the load put upon
her head, and the rope fastened round her
neck, and the sorrow with which she bade
adieu to her companions, were truly affect-
ing. About nine o'clock, we crossed a large
plain covered with ciboa trees (a species of
palm), and came to the river Nerico, a
branch of the Gambia. This was but a
small river at this time, but in the rainy
season it is often dangerous to travellers.
As soon as we had crossed this river, the
singing men began to vociferate a particu-
lar song, expressive of their joy at having
got safe into the west country, or, as they
expressed it, the land of the setting sun. The
country was found to be very level, and the
soil a mixture of clay and sand. In the
528
TRAVELS IN THE
afternoon it rained hard, and we had re-
course to the common Negro umbrella, a
large ciboa leaf, which being placed upon
the head, completely defends the whole
body from the rain. We lodged for the
night under the shade of a large tabba tree,
near the ruins of a village. On the morn-
ing following, we crossed a stream called
Noulico, and about two o'clock, to my infi-
nite joy, I saw myself once more on the
banks of the Gambia, which at this place
being deep and smooth, is navigable; but
the people told me that a little lower down,
the stream is so shallow that the coffles fre-
quently cross it on foot. On the south side
of the river opposite to this place, is a
large plain of clayey ground, called Toombi
Toorila. It is a sort of morass, in which
people are frequently lost, it being more
than a day's journey across it. In the after-
noon we met a man and two women, with
bundles of cotton cloth upon their heads.
They were going, they said, for Dentila, to
purchase iron, there being a great scarcity
of that article on the Gambia. A little
before it was dark, we arrived at a village
in the kingdom of Woolli, called Seesu-

INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
529
kunda. Near this village there are great
plenty of nitta trees, and the slaves in pass-
ing along had collected large bunches of
the fruit; but such was the superstition of
the inhabitants, that they would not permit
any of the fruit to be brought into the vil-
lage. They had been told, they said, that
some catastrophe would happen to the place,
when people lived upon nittas, and neglect-
ed to cultivate corn.
June 2d. We departed from Seesukunda,
and passed a number of villages, at none
of which was the coffle permitted to stop,
although we were all very much fatigued:
it was four oclock in the afternoon before
we reached Baraconda, where we rested
one day. Departing from Baraconda on
the morning of the 4th, we reached in a few
hours Medina, the capital of the King of
Woolli's dominions, from whom the reader
may recollect I received an hospitable re-
ception in the beginning of December,
1795, in my journey eastward.* I imme-
diately inquired concerning the health of
my good old benefactor, and learnt with
great concern that he was dangerously ill.
* Vide page 53.
M m
530
TRAVELS IN THE
As Karfa would not allow the coffle to stop,
I could not present my respects to the king
in person; but I sent him word, by the
officer to whom we paid customs, that his
prayers for my safety had not been unavail-
ing. We continued our route until sunset,
when we lodged at a small village a little
to the westward of Kootakunda, and on the
day following arrived at Jindey; where,
eighteen months before, I had parted from
my friend Dr. Laidley; an interval, during
which I had not beheld the face of a Chris-
tian, nor once heard the delightful sound of
my native language.
Being now arrived within a short distance
of Pisania, from whence my journey origi-
nally commenced, and learning that my
friend Karfa was not likely to meet with
an immediate opportunity of selling his
slaves on the Gambia; it occurred to me
to suggest to him, that he would find it for
his interest to leave them at Jindey, until a
market should offer. Karfa agreed with me
in this opinion; and hired, from the chief
man of the town, huts for their accommo-
dation, and a piece of land on which to
employ them, in raising corn, and other
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
531
provisions for their maintenance. With
regard to himself, he declared that he would
not quit me until my departure from Africa.
We set out accordingly, Karfa, myself, and
one of the Foulahs belonging to the coffle,
early on the morning of the 9th; but al-
though I was now approaching the end of
my tedious and toilsome journey; and ex-
pected in another day, to meet with coun-
trymen and friends, I could not part, for
the last time, with my unfortunate fellow-
travellers, doomed, as I knew most of them
to be, to a life of captivity and slavery, in
a foreign land, without great emotion.
During a wearisome peregrination of more
than five hundred British miles, exposed to
the burning rays of a tropical sun, these
poor slaves, amidst their own infinitely
greater sufferings would commiserate mine;
and frequently, of their own accord, bring
water to quench my thirst, and at night
collect branches and leaves to prepare me
a bed in the Wilderness. We parted with
reciprocal expressions of regret and be-
nediction. My good wishes and prayers
were all I could bestow upon them; and it
afforded me some consolation to be told,
M m 2
532
TRAVELS IN THE
that they were sensible I had no more to
give.
My anxiety to get forward admitting of
no delay on the road, we reached Tenda-
cunda in the evening, and were hospitably
received at the house of an aged black fe-
male called Seniora Camilla, a person who
had resided many years at the English fac-
tory, and spoke our language. I was known
to her before I had left the Gambia, at the
outset of my journey; but my dress and
figure were now so different from the usual
appearance of an European, that she was
very excusable in mistaking me for a Moor.
When I told her my name and country,
she surveyed me with great astonishment,
and seemed unwilling to give credit to the
testimony of her senses. She assured me
that none of the traders on the Gambia,
ever expected to see me again; having
been informed long ago, that the Moors of
Ludamar had murdered me, as they had
murdered Major Houghton. I inquired for
my two attendants, Johnson and Demba,
and learnt, with great sorrow, that neither
of them was returned. Karfa, who had never
before heard people converse in English,
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
533
listened to us with great attention. Every
thing he saw seemed wonderful. The fur-
niture of the house, the chairs, &c. and
particularly beds with curtains, were objects
of his great admiration; and he asked me
a thousand questions concerning the utility
and necessity of different articles; to some
of which I found it difficult to give satis-
factory answers.
On the morning of the 10th, Mr. Robert
Ainsley, having learnt that I was at Ten-
dacunda, came to meet me, and politely
offered me the use of his horse. He informed
me that Dr. Laidley had removed all his
property to a place called Kaye, a little
farther down the river, and that he was then
gone to Doomasansa with his vessel, to pur-
chase rice; but would return in a day or
two. He therefore invited me to stay with
him at Pisania, until the Doctor's return.
I accepted the invitation, and being accom-
panied by my friend Karfa, reached Pisania
about ten o'clock. Mr. Ainsley's schooner
was lying at anchor before the place. This
was the most surprising object which Karfa
had yet seen. He could not easily compre-
hend the use of the masts, sails, and rigging;
534
TRAVELS IN THE
nor did he conceive that it was possible, by
any sort of contrivance, to make so large
a body move forwards by the common force
of the wind. The manner of fastening to-
gether the different planks which composed
the vessel, and filling up the seams so as to
exclude the water, was perfectly new to
him; and I found that the schooner with
her cable and anchor, kept Karfa in deep
meditation the greater part of the day.
About noon on the 12th, Dr. Laidley
returned from Doomasansa, and received
me with great joy and satisfaction, as one
risen from the dead. Finding that the
wearing apparel which I had left under his
care was not sold or sent to England, I lost
no time in resuming the English dress;
and disrobing my chin of its venerable in-
cumbrance. Karfa surveyed me in my
British apparel with great delight; but re-
gretted exceedingly that I had taken off
my beard; the loss of which, he said, had
converted me from a man into a boy. Dr.
Laidley readily undertook to discharge all
the pecuniary engagements I had entered
into since my departure from the Gambia,
and took
my
draft
upon the Association for
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
535
the amount. My agreement with Karfa
(as I have already related), was to pay him
the value of one prime slave; for which I
had given him my bill upon Dr. Laidley,
before we departed from Kamalia: for, in
case of my death on the road, I was unwil
ling that my benefactor should be a loser.
But this good creature had continued to
manifest towards me so much kindness,
that I thought I made him but an inade-
quate recompence, when I told him that he
was now to receive double the sum I had
originally promised; and Dr. Laidley as-
sured him that he was ready to deliver the
goods to that amount, whenever he thought
proper to send for them. Karfa was over-
powered by this unexpected token of my
gratitude, and still more so, when he heard
that I intended to send a handsome present
to the good old schoolmaster, Fankooma, at
Malacotta. He promised to carry up the
goods along with his own; and Dr. Laidley
assured him, that he would exert himself
in assisting him to dispose of his slaves to
the best advantage, the moment a slave
vessel should arrive. These, and other in-
stances of attention and kindness shewn him
536
TRAVELS IN THE
by Dr. Laidley, were not lost upon Karfa,
He would often say to me," my journey
"has indeed been prosperous !" But, ob-
serving the improved state of our manufac-
tures, and our manifest superiority in the
arts of civilized life, he would sometimes
appear pensive, and exclaim with an invo-
luntary sigh, fato fing inta feng, "black
"men are nothing." At other times, he
would ask me with great seriousness, what
could possibly have induced me, who was
no trader, to think of exploring so miserable
a country as Africa? He meant by this to
signify that, after what I must have witness-
ed in my own country, nothing in Africa
could in his opinion deserve a moment's
attention. I have preserved these little
traits of character in this worthy Negro,
not only from regard to the man, but also
because they appear to me to demonstrate
that he possessed a mind above his condition:
and to such of my readers as love to con-
template human nature in all its varieties,
and to trace its progress from rudeness to
refinement, I hope the account I have
given of this poor African will not be un-
acceptable.
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
537
No European vessel had arrived at Gam-
bia for many months previous to my return
from the interior; and as the rainy season
was now setting in, I persuaded Karfa to
return to his people at Jindey. He parted
with me on the 14th with great tenderness;
but as I had little hopes of being able to
quit Africa for the remainder of the year, I
told him, as the fact was, that I expected
to see him again before my departure. In
this, however, I was luckily disappointed;
and my narrative now hastens to its con-
clusion; for on the 15th, the ship Charles-
Town, an American vessel, commanded by
Mr. Charles Harris, entered the river. She
came for slaves, intending to touch at Goree
to fill up and to proceed from thence to
South Carolina. As the European mer-
chants on the Gambia, had at this time a
great many slaves on hand, they agreed
with the Captain to purchase the whole of
his cargo, consisting chiefly of rum and
tobacco, and deliver him slaves to the
amount, in the course of two days. This
afforded me such an opportunity of return-
ing (though by a circuitous route) to my
native country, as I thought was not to be
538
TRAVELS IN THE
neglected. I therefore immediately engaged
my passage in this vessel for America; and
having taken leave of Dr. Laidley, to whose
kindness I was so largely indebted, and my
other friends on the river, I embarked at
Kaye on the 17th day of June.
Our passage down the river was tedi-
ous and fatiguing; and the weather was
so hot, moist, and unhealthy, that before
our arrival at Goree, four of the seamen,
the surgeon, and three of the slaves had
died of fevers. At Goree we were detain-
ed for want of provisions, until the begin-
ning of October.
The number of slaves received on board
this vessel, both on the Gambia, and at
Goree, was one hundred and thirty; of
whom about twenty-five had been, I sup-
pose, of free condition in Africa; as most
of them, being Bushreens, could write a
little Arabic. Nine of them had become
captives in the religious war between Ab-
dulkader and Damel, mentioned in the latter
part of the preceding Chapter; two of the
others had seen me as I passed through
Bondou, and many of them had heard of
me in the interior countries. My conver-
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
539
sation with them, in their native language,
gave them great comfort; and as the sur-
geon was dead, I consented to act in a
medical capacity in his room for the re-
mainder of the voyage. They had in truth
need of every consolation in my power to
bestow; not that I observed any wanton
acts of cruelty practised either by the master,
or the seamen, towards them; but the mode
of confining and securing Negroes in the
American slave ships, (owing chiefly to the
weakness of their crews,) being abundantly
more rigid and severe than in British ves-
sels employed in the same traffic, made
these poor creatures to suffer greatly, and
a general sickness prevailed amongst them.
Besides the three who died on the Gambia,
and six or eight while we remained at
Goree, eleven perished at sea, and many of
the survivors were reduced to a very weak
and emaciated condition.
In the midst of these distresses, the ves-
sel, after having been three weeks at sea,
became so extremely leaky, as to require
constant exertion at the pumps. It was
found necessary, therefore, to take some of
the ablest of the Negro men out of irons,
540
TRAVELS IN THE
and employ them in this labour; in which
they were often worked beyond their
strength. This produced a complication of
miseries not easily to be described. We
were, however, relieved much sooner than
I expected; for the leak continuing to gain
upon us, notwithstanding our utmost exer-
tions to clear the vessel, the seamen insisted
on bearing away for the West Indies, as
affording the only chance of saving our
lives. Accordingly, after some objections
on the part of the master, we directed our
course for Antigua, and fortunately made
that island in about thirty-five days after
our departure from Goree. Yet even at
this juncture we narrowly escaped destruc-
tion; for on approaching the north-west
side of the island, we struck on the Diamond
Rock, and got into St. John's harbour with
great difficulty. The vessel was afterwards
condemned as unfit for sea, and the slaves,
as I have heard, were ordered to be sold for
the benefit of the owners.
At this island I remained ten days; when
the Chesterfield Packet, homeward bound
from the Leeward Islands, touching at St.
John's for the Antigua mail, I took my
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
541
passage in that vessel. We sailed on the
24th of November; and, after a short but
tempestuous voyage, arrived at Falmouth
on the 22d of December: from whence I
immediately set out for London; having
been absent from England two years and
seven months.
THE END.
A VOCABULARY
OF THE
MANDINGO LANGUAGE.
ABOVE, santo.
Ascend, silli.
Absent, inteegée; (literally, | Asleep, sinouta.
"not here.")
Assist, maquoi.
Abuse, v. anenni.
Axe, terang.
Add, akeejee.
Afraid, silantee.
Back, ko.
Afternoon, oora.
Bad, jou.
Air, fonio.
Bag, bota.
Alike, beakillin.
Barter, v. fallan.
rally," nobody's child.")
Alive, a beegee, (is here.)
All, bea.
Always, toomotoma.
And, ning.
Angry, jusu bota; (literally,
"the heart comes out.")
Angel, melika.
Bastard, janka ding; (lite-
Beads, connoo.
Beard, bora.
Beat, v. agossi.
Bees, leekissi.
Bed, larong.
Arm, boulla; (the same for Beer, dolo; (the same for
hand.)
Arrived, footata.
Arrow, binni,
strong liquor of any kind.)
Before, neata; (“within
"sight.”)
544
A VOCABULARY OF
Behind, kofi.
Belly, konno.
Big, awarata.
Bind or tie, asceti.
Bird, cono.
Bite, v. keeng.
Black, fing.
Blood, jollie.
Blue, fingma; (blackish.)
Boil, v. fagee.
Bone, cooloo.
Book, kittāba,
Borrow, la.
Bottom, joo.
Bow, kalla.
Boy, kea ding; (literally,
"male child.")
Brave, fattee.
Bread, munko.
Break, v. affära; (the same
word signifies" to kill,"
or" to destroy.")
Breasts, sonjoo.
Bring, insambo.
Cat, neancon.
Catch, v. amuta.
Chest or coffer, koonio.
Child, ding; (if very young,
dingding.)
Cloth, fauno.
Cold, ninno.
Come, na.
Coming, abenāli.
Completely, betiki.
Cook, v. tabbee.
Corn, neo.
Country, doo.
Cow, nessee moosa.
Crowd, n. setima.
Cry, v. akumbo.
Cunning, n. a. kissee.
Cut, v. tegi.
!
Danger, torro.
Dark, dibbie.
Daughter, ding moosa; (li-
terally, "female child.")
Day, teelee.
Brother, ba-ding-kea; (lite- | Dead, asāta.
rally, mother's male Deep, adoonta.
child.")
Burn, v. ageni.
Buy (or sell), saun.
Call, v. akilli.
Carry, asambo.
Desist, attoo.
Dew, combi.
Die, v. sa.
Dirt, no.
Disease, jankra.
Dispute, degama.
THE MANDINGO LANGUAGE.
545
Dog, woola.
Door, da; (this is a word
of very extensive use, be-
ing applied to whatever
opens and shuts.)
Down, ad. dooma.
Dream, v. sibota.
Dream, n. s. siba.
Drink, v. ameen.
Dry, (arid) ajāta.
Ear, toola.
Earth, (soil) banko.
Earth, (globe) banko kang.
East, teelee bo; (" sunrise.")
Eat, adummo.
Elephant, samma.
Empty, fing tigee; (“no-
"thing here.")
Enough, keyento.
Entertain, (a guest) fanda.
Expert, cumering; ("ac-
❝tive, clever, &c.")
Eye, nea.
Fear, v. seelan.
Feather, tee; (it signifies
also, hair, and wool.)
Female, moosa.
Fever, candea.
Few, do.
Fight, v. akilli.
Fill, afundi.
Finger, boulla konding.
Fire, deemba.
Fish, yeo.
Flesh, sooboo.
Food, kinnee.
Fool, fooring.
Foot, sing; (signifies also
"the leg.")
Forget, neănata.
Free, borca.
Fresh, kinde; (signifies also,
healthy.)
Friend, barrio.
Fruit, eree ding; (“child
"of the tree.")
Full, affata.
Face, (the same as for the Give, insong.
eye.)
Fall, v. bui.
Far off, jangfata.
Fast, v. soong.
Fat, keng.
Father, fa.
N n
Glad, lata.
Go, v. ta,
God, alla.
Gold, sanoo.
Good, bettie,
Great, baa.
546
A VOCABULARY OF
Grass, bing.
Gray', aquèta.
Guard, v. tenkoong.
Half, tella.
Handsome, aniniata.
Hang up, deng.
Hate, v. akoong.
He, etti.
Head, koon.
Hear, moi.
Idle, nare.
Increase, aboonia.
Industrious, sayāta.
1
1
Interpret, konno sor; (lite-
rally, to pierce the belly.)
Iron, nega.
Island, jouio.
Jump, v. soun.
Kill, affăra.
King, mansa.
Heart, jusu.
Heaven, santo; (the Maho-
medan Negroes common-
ly say, iljinna.)
Heavy, acooliata.
Hell, johaniba.
Hen, soosee moosa.
Herb, jambo..
Here, jang.
Hide, n. goolo.
Hill, konko.
Hog, lea.
Hole, dinka.
Honey, lee.
Horn, bini.
Horse, soo.
1.
Knife, moora.
Know, alla.
Lamp, fitina.
Laugh, v. jilli.
Lend, infoo.
Lie (down), v. la jang.
Lie (falsity) fonio.
Lift, achicka.
Lightning, sanfata.
C
Lion, jatta; (in the interior
countries, wara.)
Little, miessa.
Long, jang.
Look, v. affille.
Lose, afeele.
Hot, candiata.
House, boong.
Hungry, konkola,
I, inta.
Lost, affeeleeta.
Love, v. konic.
Make, v. dada.
Male, kea.
THE MANDINGO LANGUAGE,
547
Man (homo) me..
Man (vir) fato.
Many, sitimata.
Market, loe.
Master, marree,
Mat, basso. V
Meet, v. beng.
Middle, taima.
Now, seng.
Oil, toulou.
Obtain, sutto.
Old, accottata.
Only, kinsing.
Open, v. yelli.
Out of, banta.
<
*
Milk, nunno.
Milk, v. beetee.
Mine, pr. talem.
Money, naphula; (it signi-
fies also merchandize, or
any effects of value.)
Month, korro; (the same
word signifies the moon.)
Morning, somo.
Mother, ba.
Mouth, da.
Narrative, dentigi.
Name, atto.
Pain, deeming.
Paper, coitoos
|
Pass, v. tambi.
Pass, atambita; (gone by.).
Pay, v. jo.
Pen, kalla.
People, molo.
Pierce, sor.
Pity, v. dimi..
Pleasure, di.
Pleasant, adiāta.
Plenty, asiata..
Poor, doiata..
T
Near (nigh), munjang; (not Present (gift), boonia.
far.)
Neck, kang.
Never, abada.
Night, sooton.
No, inta; (literally, is,net.)
Noon, teelee kooniata; (lite-
rally, the sun over head.).
North, saheel. Aro
Nose, noong.
|
Promise, v. moindee.
Proud, teelingabalia;` (lite-
rally, strait bodied.)
Pull, asabba's en
Push, aneury.
Put down, alondi. Janč
Quarrel, quiāta.yp
Quick, catàba.. nad pea?
548
A VOCABULARY OF
Quiet, dea.
Quiver, n. s. toong.
Rain, sangee; (literally,
water from above.) ..
Rat, ninee.
Read, akarra.
{
!
Seat, serong.
See, eager.
Send, kee.
Separate, atulla.
Shake, jiggi jiggi.
Shame, māla.
Shew, aita.
Red, woolima.
Ship, caloon.
Release, affering; (untie.)
Short, sutta.
Rest, lo.
Shut, tou.
Restore, serrat.
Sick, mun kinde.
Return, v. n. ascita.
Side, carra.
Ripe, mota.
Silent, dering.
Rise, v. wooli.
Silver, cody.
River, ba; (the same as for Sing, jilli; (the same -to-
mother.)
Road, seelo,
Rob, boitāca.
Rock, kooro.
dance.)
Sister, ba ding moosa; (mo-
ther's female child.)
Rope, julie.
Rotten, accorata.
Row, v. ajah.
Run, boorie.
Sad, doi.
Sit, see.
Sky, sang.
Slave, jong..
Sleep, v. sinoo.
Smell, v. soomboola,
Smoke, seisee.
Snake, sau.
Safe, torro inteegee; (lite- Something, fenke.
Son, ding kea; (male child.)
rally, no danger.)
Salt, ko.
Sand, kini kini.
Sandals, samata.
Say, affo.
Sea, babagee.
"
Soon, sang sang: (now
now.)
Sour, accoomiata.
South, boulla ba; (literally,
the right hand.)
THE MANDINGO LANGUAGE.
549
Speak, akummo.
Tongue, ning.
Spear, tamba.
Touch, v. ma.
Spin, v. a. worondi.
Town, kunda.
Spoon, dosa.
Trade, v. feeree.
Star, lolo.
Tree, eree.
Steal, soonia.
True, tonia.
Stink, v. n. kassa.
Stone, birro.
Stop, munia.
Stranger, leuntong.
Strike, abooti.
Sun, teelee.
Swear, kolli.
Sweet, teemiäta.
Swell, foonoo.
Swim, noo.
;
Sword, fong.
Tail, finnio.
Thief, soon.
Thin, feata; (slender.)
Think, meira.
Thirst, mindo.
Thread, bori.
Throw, fy.
Thunder, sangfata. (In con-
tradistinction to lightning,
it is Kallam Alla, (Arab.)
"the voice of God.")
Tie, v. asseetee.
To-day, bee.
To-morrow, sinny.
|
Trust, v. la.
Turn, aelima.
Understand, moi.
Until, häning.
Walk, tāma.
War, killi.
Wash, v. coo.
Water, gee.
Weary, umbatata.
Weep, akussi.
Weigh, simang.
Well, n. a. awa.
Well, n. s. cullong.
West, teelee gee.
Wet, sinunta.
What, mun.
Where, minto.
White, qui.
Who, jema.
Why, munkang.
Wind, n. funnio.
Wolf, soolo.
Woman, moosa.
Wilderness, woolla.
1
·550
A VOCABULARY OF.
4XT
Yes, awa.
Yesterday, koona.
*
nounced; when joined to
any other word, it is ee.
You, eeta,when simply pro- | Young, juna.
The following QUESTIONS and ANSWERS may be useful
in the West Indies.
Do you understand Mandingo? - ee Mandingo kummo moi?
I understand it,
I do not understand you,
柔
​Come hither,
ya moi.
ma moi.
nā nā re.
+
Is your Father or Mother living? - ee fa, ou ec bã abeegee?
alive,
dead,
abeegee.
asāta.
Have you any brothers or sisters? - ee bã ding abeegee ?,
Where are they?
Are they in Africa?
Are they on board the ship?
Point them out.
What is the matter with you?
Are you in health?
I am sick.
Shew me your tongue.
Give me your hand.
Are you hungry?
I am hungry.
Are you thirsty?
I am thirsty.
I am not hungry.
I am not thirsty.
Does your head ach?
+
biminto?
abbe fato fing doo?
abbe Tobaubo Caloon o konno?
aitanna.
mun bela?
ko ee kinde ?
mun kinde.
ee ning aitanna.
ee boulla adima.
konkolabinna?
konkolabinna.
mindolabinna ?
?
عمر
the same word repeated.
konko inteegee.
mindo inteegee.
ee koon bideemina ?
THE MANDINGO LANGUAGE.
551
It does ach.
It does not ach.
bideemina.
intadeeming.
Does your stomach pain you? - ee konno bideemina ?
Do you sleep well?
Are you feverish ?
Do not be afraid.
There is no danger.
Drink this medicine.
It will do you good.
koo ee sinoo betiki?
acandeata?
kanna seelan.
torro inteegee.
ning borri ameen.
aee kissi.
Printed by W. Bulmer and Co,
Cleveland Row, St. James's.

SOUND NU
DONC
LATE
THIS BOOK
FORMS PART OF THE
ORIGINAL LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
BOUGHT IN EUROPE
1838 TO 1839
BY
ASA GRAY