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BOUGHT IN EUROPE
1838 TO |839
BY
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ARGOLIS,

O R N A M E N T E D SA R C O PH A C US AT E P : D A U R US )
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to
GEORGE EARL OF ABERDEEN K.T.
&c &c. &c
whose PERSONAL RESEARCHES IN GREECE
HAVE EVINCED HIS DESIRE TO ENCOURAGE
THE FURTHER INVESTIGATION OF THAT COUNTRY
THIS WORK CONTAINING
ARGOLIS
IS DEDICATED
BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND AND DEVOTED SERVANT
THE AUTHOR
PRIEFA CE.
THE thirst for information on the subject of those
places which have been celebrated by the Latin his-
torians, has occasioned the most diligent examination of
every part of Italy, yet the supposed difficulty of the task,
has prevented travellers from extending their researches to
the classic ground beyond the Adriatic, so that we are at
present as ignorant of Greece as of the interior of Africa.
Greece differs most essentially from other countries,
and even from Italy, in the infinite number of objects of
_curiosity which it offers to the traveller; not an hour
passes without producing some new source of reflection, and
the road at every turn presents some scene to which the
Poets or the Historians have attached interest, and this
IB
ii RREFACE.
too, generally marked with such precision that the spot
cannot easily be mistaken. Although every nation
changes its character with its government, yet motwith-
standing the lapse of twenty centuries, and so many
revolutions, it is very gratifying to observe, that in Greece
the same physical causes which produced the original dis-
tinction between the inhabitants of neighbouring districts,
still operate with such force, that mo other country affords
so many traces of ancient manners, or recalls so frequently
the recollection of its former inhabitants. Thus Athens
is now the most polished city of Greece; the Eleuthero
Lacomes still retain their independence and aversion to
strangers; the stoutest men are yet to be found at Daulis,
the Acarnanians and Epirots are yet the most lawless;
and if Theseus cut off his hair at Delphi previous to his
journey into Molossia, three thousand years ago, a
stranger who wished to pass undiscovered as a native of
that part of the country would be necessitated to follow his
example at the present day.
There is no part of the world in which primitive manners
can be observed with so little personal danger; there is
º
PREFACE. iii
none which offers an opportunity of witnessing and com-
paring with so much ease the opposite customs of Europe
and Asia; or of changing the scene with such rapidity :
for when the classic traveller is satisfied with the simplicity
of the heroic ages in the mountains of Arcadia, where a
single brass kettle is frequently the only utensil in a
family, he may descend in the course of one hour into
the plain, and, drinking coffee in a cup set with rubies,
realize the splendid visions of the Arabian Nights in the
court of the Pacha of Tripolizza. -
A country composed of an infinite number of promon-
tories, intersected by gulphs, which penetrate to its centre,
cannot fail to abound in picturesque combinations of land
and water; while lofty mountains, which are often co-
vered with snow, produce every variety of scenery
and climate. It would be absurd to compare any other
district with Greece for curious remains of antiquity,
scarcely any city has been named, of which some indica-
tion might not be discovered, whilst works of art are not
Wanting, and here perhaps only can architecture be seen
in its greatest delicacy and purity.
In 2
*
iv. * PREFACE.
To those who delight in natural philosophy, Greece
affords an inexhaustible fund of scientific research and
entertainment, in her mines of gold, silver, and copper,
in her marbles and fossils, and in the richness and variety
of her vegetable productions.
With such inducements it is probable that travellers
would have visited the country more frequently, had they
not been deterred by the real or imaginary dangers of the
enterprize ; the following pages point out where such dif-
ficulties do exist, and the best method of avoiding them ;
the work is also calculated to assist the traveller in finding
the monuments of antiquity, and to inform him where he
may procure lodging, as well as the means of proceeding on
his journey. To those who may consult this volume as
their guide on the road, the advantage of noting every well,
rivulet, mill, or farm-house, though it seem frivolous in
England, will soon be apparent, in a country which does
not abound in water, where every stream has its history,
and where every object assists in determining the direction
to be pursued, when the road is nothing better than a
track frequently interrupted.
PRIEFACE. • V
The first article of necessity in Greece is a Firman,
or order from the Sultan, permitting the traveller to pass
unmolested, and recommending him to the attention of the
Viceroys or Pachas of the Morea, and the neighbouring
provinces. An order for post-horses may be annexed to
this, by which, wherever the post is established, good
horses may be had, nominally free from expence, but
presents ought to be given to the Menzilgis, or postillions,
who attend. This firman should be procured by the am-
bassador at Constantinople, and sent to the Consul or his
agent at the first port where the traveller enters the country.
If this does not arrive, the best method is to be introduced
by the agent to the governor of the town, whether he be
Mollah, Wayvode, Bey, or Aga, and he will give a re-
commendation to his neighbours. If the Pacha be within
reach, his passport, called a Buyrouldi, is absolute within
his territory. These precautions are, however, by no means
essential, for a passport is rarely required, but it is better
to have one in case of difficulty. Money is easily procured
at Salonica or Patrass, where the English have Consuls.
These, if a traveller be properly recommended, will give
letters to their friends and agents in the country. Bills
----ºf '' .
vi PREFACE.
upon Londom or Constantinople, are in great request almost
every where. There is often great difficulty in negociating
bills upon Venice, and even upon Smyrna, whereas it fre-
quently happens that eight per cent. is given for bills upon
Constantinople, if there be any disturbance in Macedonia,
or Thrace, on account of the greater security of thus con-
veying the tribute to the capital. With regard to the
mode of travelling in Greece, carriages not being used in
the south, except by the Pachas, at whose approach the
roads are usually repaired, horses seem the best mode of
conveyance. Some prefer mules, from an idea of their
caution in dangerous or rocky situations, but the horses of
the country are equally accustomed to the roads, and are
not only more docile, but, free from the trick of lying
down in the water with luggage, which is frequently the
practice of the mules. Some would prefer an English saddle,
but a saddle of this sort is always objected to by the owner
of the horse, and not without reason, as from the miserable
condition in which the beasts are kept, the back of the
animal generally becomes quite raw in the course of a few
hours. The best way is, to purchase a saddle of the
country, and arrange the stirrups in a more convenient
PREFACE. vii
manner. A litter might be used, carried between two
mules, and two persons might sit in it: indeed the Turks
of quality are usually possessed of such a vehicle, but they
are rarely seen in the south of Greece, and the bushes
would often subject the traveller in the litter to serious
inconvenience. With regard to the post horses, though
any thing may be done with money, it is rather expected
that a traveller who uses them, should keep the post-road,
and not spend much time in observation. The horses which
are to be hired of the country people, certainly answer all
the purposes of a person who travels for information, but
whether one manner or the other be preferred, the number
of spectators, and the noise and quarrelling of the people
who pack the luggage on the baggage-horses, exceeds all
belief, and is by far the most fatiguing and disgusting
part of the journey. This is repeated every morning,
or as often as the animals are loaded. The only way of
avoiding this, is to purchase as many horses as are wanted,
and to hire a proper number of Greeks or Turks to take
care of them and the baggage. The horses may be
bought for five or six pounds each, and may be sold again
when the tour is at an end. In this manner every one of
viii PREFACE.
the attendants knows, after the first day, what he is to do,
without dispute or noise; the maintenance of the horses
costs a mere trifle, and the traveller will always be able to
get away from any town which is disagreeable to him, at a
moment's warning. It is better to take a fresh guide at
every place, as the roads are sometimes difficult to find, and
fords often change.
It is always better to have a Janissary if he be well re-
commended. He will preside over the rest of the attend-
ants, and precede his employer in all places where ceremony
is necessary. Such a person might be retained for about
fifteen piasters the month, while stationary at any town,
but should have at least a double allowance on a journey,
and is in both instances maintained. Indeed five sequins
per month, a sum equal to fifty shillings, is not too much
for a Turk of this kind, provided he be really active in the
service. This person is either styled the Janissary or the
Sakshish by the natives. Many travellers would prefer
Greeks for this purpose, but while the Turks are masters of
the country, a Turk has always the advantage. A Turk
may easily be found who will walk by the side of a baggage-
PRIEFACE. ix.
horse, and he is certain of performing his engagement with-
out grumbling. The Greeks generally become physically
incapable of undergoing great bodily fatigue, during the
long fasts to which they are condemned by their religion.
It is pretended that a traveller would be better received
in their villages, if he came unattended by a Turk, but ex-
perience often proves the contrary.
Persons of large fortune might think a tattar or courier
necessary, and there can be no doubt that the sending a
person to the place where the traveller intends to sleep on
the following night, would be of great use, as without this
Precaution, it is not unusual to wait four or five hours for
dinner, particularly in the houses of the Archons in large
toWns.
The most necessary article for a traveller is a bed, which
should of course be as portable as possible. A piece of oil-
cloth to cover it, when rolled up in the day, and to place
under it at night, would be useful. A carpet about eight
feet square is of service to sit upon. A knife, fork, spoon,
plate, drinking cup, and some kind of vessel for boiling
C
X PREFACE.
water, seem almost the only necessary additions. A light
umbrella as a shade from the sun would always be found
very agreeable, and would be more serviceable if it were
fitted to an iron spike, by which it might be stuck into the
ground,
Curtains suspended to the sides of the room by cords, are
very useful to exclude insects while the traveller sleeps. If
these be made of silk, and tucked under the bed as soon as
it is made, the night's rest will not be disturbed; many will
prefer mosquito curtains, but they are not to be depended
upon. When a family travels in Greece, it would be ad-
visable to carry a thick curtain, by which a room may be
separated, if necessary, into two parts.
A stranger is sometimes well accommodated in the houses
of the Archons, but as he cannot pay in money for his en-
tertainment, and it is impossible to carry a sufficient number
of presents, which, in case of great kindnesses, might be a
watch or a piece of cloth, or what is most esteemed in
Turkey a bowl or cup, or ewer of cut glass, he often feels
under the necessity of shortening his stay at the place. In
PREFACE. xi
these houses a small present in money should be given to
the servants, particularly to the cook.
When a traveller is lodged at a house where he is per-
mitted to pay his own expences, it is better that such pay-
ment be made in the presence of witnesses, for it frequently
happens, that as a firman orders that every assistance should
be given to the bearer of it, so he might live at the expence
of the province if he pleased, and this gives an opportunity
to the person who entertains a stranger not only of being
twice paid, but of sacrificing the honour of the traveller, and
of extorting whatever sum he pleases from the inhabitants,
under pretence of his maintenance.
This precaution is the more necessary, as the lower order
of people affirm that the practice is frequent, and so artfully
managed, that even those who are aware of the fact will find
some trouble in preventing the imposition. It will often
be found convenient to sleep at small villages, situated near
remarkable ruins. In these places the Janissary or some
Person of the party should begin by announcing that no-
thing shall be taken without payment. A cottage is thus
C 2
xii PREFACE.
easily procured, and is in many respects preferable to the
houses of the Archons. As the people naturally flock to the
place to observe the manners and appearance of the
strangers, it is better to gratify their curiosity and permit
them to remain for some time, sending them away under
the pretence of eating or sleeping, where an excuse is ne-
cessary. On these occasions they frequently bring medals
and gems, which they generally sell at a moderate price, if
the traveller does not appear too anxious to purchase
them.
The Khans or . Inns of the country are often the most
convenient lodging. They are generally supplied with all
the necessaries for refreshment, and the traveller can call for
what he wants without ceremony, for which a regular
written bill is brought at his departure, not so exorbitant as
in private houses. In a Khan no stranger would think of
intruding when a room is preoccupied.
There is frequently a report of thieves in the country, but
their haunts are generally known, and guards may be taken
at the nearest town.
PR.EFACE. xiii
The robbers however usually fly to Zante, Leucadia, or
Cephallonia, if too closely pressed by the Turks, and are
therefore cautious of attacking those whose dress shews that
they are not subjects of the Porte, as such conduct might
subject them to punishment in those islands. This circum-
stance either entirely obviates, or at least very much di-
minishes the danger of meeting banditti. If no resistance
is made, they are said not to ill treat their captives, but
they secure them till a ransom is paid. It is a useful thing
to know that the province in which the robbery is committed
is compelled to restore the money to the sufferer. It may
be necessary to state, that there being very little opportunity
of judging accurately of the real distance between two dif-
ferent places in Greece, time is generally used as the mea-
sure of it. This is taken at the rate of about three miles and
an half an hour, but in some places the mountains, and in
others the plains, necessarily cause great variation in the
actual distance measured by an hour's march. It is scarce
necessary to add, that with a good horse, many of the jour-
nies might be performed in half the time here allowed; but
as the routes here described are all taken from the rate of
xiv PREFACE.
the same horse, it is to be hoped that they are compara-
tively correct. The accounts of places, taken from ancient
authors, are generally given in a literal translation. The
statues are rarely mentioned, and tombs, only when there is
a probability that they were tumuli, as in the heroic ages,
because by a diligent search several of them might yet be
discovered.
The great difficulty of giving any tolerable idea of the
face of a country in writing, and the ease with which a very
accurate knowledge of it may be acquired by maps and
panoramic designs, are sufficient apologies for the in-
troduction of them.
With regard to the volume, though it be only calcu-
lated to become a book of reference, and not of general
entertainment, yet that labour cannot be entirely unin-
n teresting to the scholar, which gives him a faithful
description of the remains of cities, the very existence
of which was doubtful, as they perished before the aera of au-
*
*
thentic history.
PREFACE. XV
&
The principal recommendation of the work is its uti-
lity in facilitating the researches of future travellers, by
affording that local information which it was before im-
possible to obtain.
The good conduct of those who have visited Greece from
motives of curiosity has hitherto procured for the English the
greatest respect, which has been extended in the minds of
the people from individuals to the nation at large, so as to
have occasioned an extravagant notion of the justice of the
British government. This idea subjects the traveller to con-
stant applications from the inhabitants of the towns and vil-
lages through which he passes, who consider him as the re-
presentative of his nation; and as their distresses are often
of such a nature that they might be relieved by one word
from the minister at Constantinople, the traveller would en-
gage heartily in the cause, and take a great deal of useless
trouble, if he were not informed, that neither the minister at
the Porte nor any ministry at home, can ever be brought to
a sense of the vast importance of creating an interest in this
valuable country, the political existence of which they seem
almost to have considered as a romance, while the name
xvi. DRIEFACT.
brings only to their imaginations the history of the gods and
giants, or of the lapithae and centaurs. The folly of such
neglect, in many instances, where the emancipation of a
district might often be obtained by the present of a snuff-
box or a watch at Constantinople, and without the smallest
danger of exciting the jealousy of such a court as that of
Turkey, will be acknowledged when we are no longer able
to rectify the error. We may yet learn to our cost, that in
Greece, ships, sailors, and harbours, may be found by
those who will be at the pains to search for them. In
the mean time the traveller who may imagine he is in
possession of such information as would be of the most es-
sential service to his country, may spare himself the trouble
of communicating it to his government, as well as the
mortification of seeing it rejected. - a
The confusion of the modern with the ancient names of
places in this volume is absolutely unavoidable; they are
however mentioned in such a manner, that the reader will
soon be accustomed to the indiscriminate use of them. The
necessity of applying the ancient appellations to the
different routes, will be evident from the total ignorance
PREFACE. xvii
of the public on the subject of the modern names, which
having never appeared in print, are only known to the few
individuals who have visited the country.
What could appear less intelligible to the reader, or less
useful to the traveller, than a route from Chiome and Zaracca
to Kutchukmadi, from thence to Krabata, to Schoenochorio,
and by the mills to Peali, while every one is in some degree
acquainted with the names of Stymphalus, Nemea, My-
cenae, Lyrceia, Lerna, and Tegea.
ARGOLIS.
ROUTE FROM CORINTH TO CLEONAE.
IN the road between Corinth and Argos is the city of Cleonae, a place
of no great extent. In it is a temple of Minerva and the monuments
of Eurytus and Cteatus. Pausanias. Corinthiaca, 57. Cleonae is 120
stadia distant from Argos, and 80 from Corinth, from the citadel of
which it is visible. It is situated upon a hill which is covered with the
houses, and is very well walled, so that it seems to deserve the
epithet of well built. Strabo. ErkTIMENAx, KAEoNAx. Hom. Il. B. 2.
To avoid the trouble of consulting another volume, which may con-
tain the roads from Corinth, the whole route from that place to Argos
is here given, though it should otherwise commence at Cleonae, which
was the last city of Argolis in the direction of Corinth.
At the distance of 10 minutes from Corinth, the road crosses a ra-
vine and stream. At 20 minutes a second, and soon after a third. At
26 on the right is a great wood of olives extending over the plain to-
ward the Corinthian gulph. At 36 minutes quit the plain crossing
a bridge over a deep ravine, on the left see another bridge and a s
house. Hence ascend by a steep winding path till 40 minutes,
D 2
20 CORINTH TO CLEONAE.
where on the top of the hill are two tumuli on the right, and a stone
quarry on the left. Another steep descent succeeds, till at 45 minutes
the road crosses a bridge over a great ravine and torrent. At 50 the
village of Rachani is seen right.
After another ascent and descent, cross a river running to the
plain of Corinth. At one hour recross the river near the mill of Bu-
jukli, which is on the right at the foot of a mountain. Hence con-
tinuing near the river, with high hills on the left, pass a fountain right,
and at one hour 25 minutes cross again the same river, leavin g a mill
on the left. Ascending through cultivated grounds by the bed of the
torrent, arrive at the village of Omar Tschaousch in one hour and
55 minutes. This village is the most western point of the road from
Corinth to Cleonae, and is about 10 degrees to the westward of a right
line drawn from the former to the latter place. There are some cy-
presses at this village, and on the left is a cultivated valley. The
road lies often in the bed of the torrent. At the distance of two
hours from Corinth pass a mill, and continue in the plain in which
are several villages, till at two hours 25 minutes, the road crosses a
torrent, and in a few minutes after, arrives at the hill on which are the
ruins of the city of Cleonae. The direct road to Argos turns off be-
fore this place to the left, in the plain, at two hours and 12 minutes,
leaving the hill of Cleonae to the right, and a 1&alybea or temporary
village to the left. There are three other villages in the plain, on the
left at a short distance, where a person visiting the ruins of Cleonae
might procure what was necessary. One distant about two miles is
called Agios Basili. There are at Cleonae considerable ruins, but it
CLEONAE. 2I
does not appear that they have as yet been sufficiently examined.
Cleonae may be found by observing that the mountain with a re-
markable summit or table land, which is perhaps that anciently
called Apesas, bears N. 30 W. and the Acrocorinthos N. 65 E. from
the spot uncorrected.
CLEONAE TO TRETUM AND NEMAFA.
There are two roads from Cleonae to Argos, one is shorter, and
used by people on foot. The other by Tretum is also rough, being
carried through mountains, but a wheeled carriage passes without
difficulty. Pausanias. Corinthiaca, 57. Tretum was so called,
because there were several caves in the mountain, as the name imports.
Diodorus Siculus. Book 5.
In the mountains near Tretum, the cave of the Nemean lion is yet
shewn, from which Nemea is not more than fifteen stadia distant.
Pausanias. There was a forest in very ancient times round the den
of the lion. Theocritus, &c.
At 15 minutes from Cleonae is a Khan, called Kortesa, with a
chapel and a fountain ; a path turns off right to Nemea. At 45 mi-
nutes the road crosses a large bridge over a river, which runs at the
foot of the mountains on the left. The road then arrives, after a
gentle descent, at the Derveni, mentioned in the rout from Nemaea to
Mycenae.
22 NEMAEA.
CLEONAE TO NEMAEA... .
Nemaea is situated between Cleonae and Phlius. Strabo.
Cleonae is two hours 30 minutes distant from Corinth. At two
hours 40 minutes from Corinth, keeping the ruins on the left, is a
fount left, and here the road crosses a part of the hill of Cleonae till
two hours 50 minutes, when there is a Metoiki or farm, and some cul-
tivated land. Cross a hill with a church on the left, and arrive at a
tumulus in three hours 30 minutes. Here join the road leading from
Mycenae to Nemaca, which turning to the right, falls into the valley
of Nemaea, between the site of a Theatre on the right, and a fount on
the left, now dry. Arrive at Nemaea in three hours 45 minutes
from Corinth.
NEMAEA OR NEMEA.
The little village of Kutchukmadi, distant about one mile and a
half, is the most convenient habitation near Nemaa.
At Nemaea is the magnificent temple of Jupiter, the roof of which is
destroyed. A grove of cypresses surrounds the temple, Pausa-
mias. Cor. 57.
The ruins of the temple of Jupiter still exist. They consist of
three doric columns, two of which support their architrave. The
temple was about 163 feet three inches long, if there were fourteen
NEMAEA. 2S
columns in the flanks, which Mr. Wilkins supposes. Seeintroduction
to Magna Graecia. *
The breadth of the upper step was 65 feet three inches. There
were six columns in front. Width of the cella 30 feet seven inches.
Length of the temple comprehended between the column of the pro-
naos and posticus 105 feet two inches. Diameters of the columns of
the peristyle five feet 2% inches. Upper diameter of the columns 4 feet
3 inches. Height of the columns 31 feet 10% inches. Capital 2 feet
half an inch. Diameter of columns of pronaos 4 feet 6% inches. Whole
height of entablature 8 feet 13 inches. Height of the three steps
3 feet 6+ inches. General intercolumniation 7 feet half an inch. An-
gular intercolumniation 5 feet 10} inches. These columns being
higher in proportion to their diameters than is usual in the doric order,
lose much of their effect, and the capital is mean. The ruins of the
other columns and the cell are scattered round the three which
remain.
There is at Nemaea the sepulchre of Opheltes, surrounded by a
stone wall, and also the tumulus of Lycurgus, the father of Opheltes.
Pausanias. Corinthiaca, 58. w
There is at present a tumulus near the ruins of the temple of Ju-
piter, and to the south of the columns. Upon it a small Greek
chapel has been erected, in which are the fragments of a small doric
temple. . -
24, NEMAEA.
The fountain is called Adrastea. Pausanias.
It is probable that the water is now lost in a ditch which is near
the columns. The fountain now seen is without water.
Above Nemaea is Mount Apesas. Pausanias.
The only mountain at all observable from the valley of Nemaea is
that of which the summit is a flat or table land. It is therefore pro-
bably Mount Apesas. A peasant called it Strongylo, but no de-
pendance can be placed on such authority. It bears N. 37 E. from
the temple of Jupiter. The view of the ruins given in this work is
taken from the side opposite to that already published by the
Society of Dilettanti, in the “Ionian Antiquities.” -
FROM NEMAEA TOWARD SICYON.
The road pursues the left bank of the brook Nemaea through the
plain. Pass two ruined churches on the left bank. In 15 minutes
cross a bridge over a stream falling into the Nemaea from the left. Here
the river runs in a deep ravine. The table mountain is on the right.
At 20 minutes pass a ruin on the right, and across the river see a
ruined church. At 27, cross another torrent, whence till 30 the road
lies through cultivated land. At 30, cross a bridge over another tor-
rent. Hence descend with a high hill on the left, crossing the river,
| NEMEA. ...'
25
and recrossing it twice at 55 minutes. At one hour 15 minutes, cross
a rivulet from the right. The road changes first to the left, then to the
right, and again to the left bank, before one hour 25 minutes. At
one hour 30 minutes the road crosses to the right bank, and the river
disappears among cultivated grounds. At one hour 45 minutes is a
ruined mill, and at two hours is a fountain. The bed of the river re-
appears, and at two hours 10 minutes is a tumulus, at which the
plain of Sicyon and Corinth commences. The sea is about one hour
distant from the spot.
ROAD FROM NEMEA TO MYCENAE.
Those who return to Tretum in their way to Argos, will see the
ruins of Mycenae to the left, Pausanias. Corinth. 58.
The road from the temple of Jupiter at Nemea to Mycenae lies
along the little plain to the south of the ruins, which terminates in
about ten minutes. It then turns to the left, ascending a gap be-
tween the hills. The descent from this spot is at first steep. In the
hill on the left are several caves, some of which were probably the
haunts of the Nemean lion. One is yet shewn by the peasants, and
is now the fold of many goats and sheep. -
The track afterwards lies along a slope covered with bushes.
At 10 minutes from Nemea a mill and some cottages are observable
about a mile to the left. At 35 minutes, the trackfalls into the direct
P.
26 NEMEA.
road from Corinth to Argos, and turns to the right near a small der-
veni or guard house. There are not always guards at this place; when
there are, it is usual to give them a piastre or two, but they have no
right to demand it from a person with a passport. The road accom-
panies a brook running in the bottom of a very narrow ravine, which,
if Tretum was not a town, might have given origin to the name; it is
also at the distance of 15 stadia from Nemea, which agrees with Pau-
sanias, till at the distance of 50 minutes from Nemea, it becomes a
little more open ; and on an eminence on the right, covered with ar-
butus and other shrubs, is the ruin of an ancient edifice, now known
by the name of Ellenon Lithari. The building of the Greeks. The
vestiges of some fabric, with the remains of a portal with holes into
which bars have been inserted to secure the door, are to be discovered
among the bushes. t
On the left of the road the stream falls into a basin of rock, the
sides of which appear to have been shaped by art. This was probably
an ancient fountain, now the haunt of numerous tortoises. The vil-
lage of Zachari is seen on a hill about a mile on the right. The
country is covered with shrubs.
The wood between Nemea and Mycenae was the chief haunt of the
Nemean lion. Diod. Sic.
At the distance of about eight minutes from the Ellenon Lithari, is
a heap, possibly a tumulus or heroic sepulchre, on a little hill to the
right. At 15 minutes from the Lithari is a derveni, upon a rock to
NEMEA. 27
the left. About seven minutes beyond the derveni are vestiges of
buildings, and the track of wheels is visible in the rock over which the
road is carried. The wheels were placed at about the same distance
from each other as in the carriages of modern times. About half an
hour distant from the Lithari, the road crosses the vestiges of a wall,
and eight minutes after, another, which may have perhaps served as the
boundaries of Nemea and Mycenae. The rocks of this district often
assume the appearance of walls, particularly of that kind of masonry
styled Cyclopian.
After this the glen opens, and the road passes through arable
ground. On the left see a tumulus. The road continues with the
stream, and at 50 minutes from the Lithari is a tumulus on the right.
At 55 minutes a tumulus on the right, and above it more distant is a
ruined chapel, which is in the road from the village of Agios Giorgios
to Argos. One hour from the Ellenon Lithari cross a rivulet, a tu-
mulus left. Enter the plain of Argos, the hills on the right receding.
The village and ruins called Phytai or Phyti right. The summit of
the last is covered with rough rocks, which assume the appearance of
a ruined fortress.
The village of Krabata or Kravata, is about half an hour distant
from the entry of the plain, quitting the main road to Argos, and as-
cending gently to the left. If this track is not perceived, keep on
the great road as far as the Khan, whence Kravata is visible. In the
nearer way several tumuli are seen, and the citadel of Mycenae has a
fine effect, rising between two pyramidal mountains. The whole dis-
F 9
28 KRABATA, MYCENAE.
tance from Nemea to Mycenae or Krabata, is about two hours.
From the Ellenon Lithari to Krabata one hour and 20 minutes. The
whole route might with a good horse be performed in one hour, as no
part of the road is dangerous.
ERABATA. MYCIENAE.
* At Krabata the best lodging is in the Pyrgo or tower, which is ea-
sily distinguished from the huts which are near it. It is the property
of a Turkish gentleman who lives at Nauplia, who will permit
strangers to lodge in it.) The Turk who lately had the care of the
tower is civil and intelligent. The name Krabata implies a bed or
sofa, and from signifying a place of repose, is not unfrequently used
to express an habitation. A stranger who does not take a guide
from Krabata, may easily find the acropolis of Mycenae, by following
the little waterduct which supplies the village, and which passes over
the treasury of Atreus, and near the gate of the lions. Ascending by
this route, in about nine minutes a ruined chapel is seen on the right
of the path, situated on a hillock or tumulus. In it there is a piece of
red marble with a very ancient sculpture, representing the honey-
suckle or lotus ornament, afterwards improved and used in the Ionic
order. On the same marble are sculptured spiral lines, which were
much used as a decoration at Mycenae. The citadels of Nauplia and
Argos are both seen from this spot. In the bed of the torrent below
are the ruins either of a bridge or of an opening in the wall of the city
for the passage of the torrent. This has not been arched, but was
ERAIBATA. MYCENAE. 20
formed by projecting stones, and is of very remote antiquity. The re-
mains of bridges are very rare in Greece. Every thing at Mycenae is
of the most ancient date, for the city was destroyed and depopulated
by the Argives soon after the Persian invasion, (Strabo) about 466 years
before Christ, having existed about 918 years from its foundation by
Perseus in the fourteenth century.
Still pursuing the watercourse, along line of rocks may be observed,
running in a right line nearly north and south, upon the brow of the
hill, ending near the chapel. The walls of the town probably ran
upon this ridge, which has been cut by art, and has the trace of a
gate near the centre. The watercourse next runs over a tumulus,
which is upon the top of the treasury of Atreus.
The town, which was of considerable extent, covered the whole of the
slope down to the torrent, and the opposite ascent to the citadel. The
entrance of the treasury is a little lower down the hill. Two parallel
walls 20 feet 6 inches asunder project from the portal, above which
is a triangular opening, which is usual in the edifices of this city.
The place was probably once closed by a sculptured stone. The front
appears to have been cased with green and red marble, with spiral
and circular ornaments. Near the door observe a semicircular
pilaster and its capital very curiously carved in spiral and zigzag
lines. This capital is given in a miscellaneous plate. The leaves,
which are the lowest ornament, are exactly similar to that represent-
ed by Norden in his View of the Palace of Memnon. In the archi-
trave are holes into which bronze mails have been inserted to Support
30 KRABATA. MYCENAE.
some ornament. The portal is nearly 10 feet wide, and diminishes in
breadth from the foundation upwards. It is about 20 feet high.
Observe in the entrance, and all over the walls of the chamber brass
nails at regular distances very strongly fastened into the stone. These
nails consist of a mixture of copper and tin, in the proportion of 88
to 12. The passage to the chamber is 18 feet deep. It is covered
with two stones, one of enormous magnitude, being 27 feet long,
16 broad, and about 4 thick. The apartment itself consists of a cir-
cular dome in shape like a bee-hive, 47 feet six inches in diameter,
and about 50 in height. This dome is not composed of stones which
form parts of the radii of a circle as in an arch, but is constructed
with horizontal courses, the inside of each stone being curved in
such a manner that the whole has the appearance of a regular vault.
Though a stone is now wanting near the top, the roof seems to be
in no danger of falling. Vaults of this construction are to be found
among the ruins of the ancient cities of Sicily. About three miles
from Noto, in the district of Falconara, is a peninsula covered with
ruins of the ancient city of Macara. Here, in a place called the cita-
del, are buildings covered with large stones placed horizontally, and
having like that of Mycenae internally the appearance of a dome.
The buildings are not more than 26 feet in diameter. They have
been in modern times used as chapels, which made Houel, who
gives the account of these edifices, suppose they were not of remote
antiquity ; but his drawing shews that the vaults were exactly similar
to that of the treasury of Atreus. The external figure is square, but
the roofs are circular. It is singular that as there is a hole above
each door in the Grecian treasury, so the same is remarked by Houel
1&RAIBATA. MYCENAE. 31
in the Sicilian ruins. The place was fortified with rough blocks in
the most ancient manner, which Houel imagines the work of the
Siculi. There are many sepulchres in the rock as well as circular
magazines near these ruins. The same author found in the road from
Militello to Vizzini among the ruins of an ancient city, a square
chamber, beyond which was a second apartment covered with a
vault, the stones of which were all placed horizontally, and as he
says ill hewn and ill constructed, though of great magnitude. It is
to be remarked that the great magazines of corn at Agrigentum are
of exactly the same shape, but are cut in the rock. At Mycenae on
the right a door is seen which has been secured by strong bolts,
diminishing from four feet nine inches to four feet six inches, and
which is the entrance into an inner chamber 27 feet long and 20
broad. The roof and sides of this cavern seem to consist entirely of
crumbling earth without any support, but it is possible both walls
and roof might be found by excavation, though the work would be
dangerous. This door has also a triangular opening above the archi-
trave.
Pausanias mentions this edifice. “Among the ruins of Mycenae
is a fountain named Perseia, and the subterraneous chambers of
Atreus and his sons, in which treasuries their riches were deposited ;
there is also the sepulchre of Atreus and of all those whom AEgisthus
slew at the supper with Agamemnon at his return from Troy.” Corin-
thiaca, 59. It is of little consequence whether these treasuries or ma-
gazines Were erected by Atreus or his predecessors. Atreus was the
greatest of the princes of the Peloponnesus, and the Atridae were
S2 KRABATA. MYCIENAE.
proverbially rich, but the edifices might have been erected before
his time as in the cases of Acrisius, of Proetus, and Minyas. Eurys-
theus, who immediately preceded his uncle Atreus, is said by Diodorus
and others to have concealed himself in a brazen vase when terrified
by the return of Hercules to Mycenae. Apollodorus however, b. 2.
says, that he concealed himself in an urn of brass, which he con-
structed secretly underground, an account which would be perfectly
applicable to a brazen chamber, though it is nonsense when referred
to a Vase. , ºr
This building has not the smallest traces of holes for bolts, nor
sockets for hinges, at the great entrance. The first chamber might
have been both a temple and a tomb. See the chamber of Danae at
Argos, and the inner apartment a treasury; for that has been se-
cured by strong bars. Perhaps the holes in the great architrave
might have held nails, which supported a curtain or veil. Pausanias,
Book 8, Chap. 10. mentions a temple of Neptune Hippius, only pro-
tected by its sanctity and a woollen veil, built by the same Tropho-
nius and Agamedes, who were famous for their skill in erecting trea-
suries and temples, and who actually built the treasury of Minyas at
Orchomenos in Baeotia, and another for king Hyrieus at Delphi.
Pausanias says, “ the treasury of Minyas is one of the wonders of
Greece, a work not yielding in magnificence to any of those in other
countries. It is thus constructed: the walls are all of stone, the
building is of a circular form, the roof is not very much pointed, they
say that the parts of the edifice are proportioned to each other even
to the highest stone.” This passage, and the present existence of the
KRABATA. MYCENAE. 33
edifice it describes at Orchomenos, exactly similar to this at
Mycenae, sufficiently proves that the building at Krabata is what the
Greeks called a treasury. Both Orchomenos and Mycenae were
famous for opulence. Odyssey 3. 305. and Speech of Achilles in the
Iliad. The brass nails which are placed at regular distances
throughout the interior, have not heads, which might have served for
ornament. They consist of 88 parts of copper and 12 of tin.
They must have served to fasten plates of the same metal to the
wall, and the seeming fables of brazen chambers and brazen temples
may be easily explained by this circumstance.
Danae was confined in a similar apartment, as may be proved by the
description given of her chamber at Argos. See Argos. The Thałamóf
of the daughters of Proetus at Tiryns, were probably of the same species.
Treasuries were also used as prisons, for “the Messenians having
taken prisoner Philopaemen,” placed him in a treasury, which was
under ground and without light; it had no door, which seems a curi-
ous circumstance for a treasury, but they placed a large stone so as
to prevent his escape. Plutarch's Life of Philopæmen. Homerſ also
mentions the brazen chamber in the Odyssey, in a manner that makes
it probable he meant a prison.
There was a very ancient temple of Apollo at Delphi, said to have
been built by bees; but this was probably an allusion to the form of
F
34 KRABATA. MYCIENAE.
the hive, like this edifice at Mycenae. This was succeeded by one built
of brass, an idea which must have arisen from the plates of that metal
with which it was covered. On the outside of the treasury is a tumu-
lus of earth, which was probably much higher than it is at present. If
this was ever used as a place of sepulchre, it was on this tumulus that
Electra made the libation of milk in honour of Agamemnon. See
Electra of Sophocles, Speech of Chrysothemis, 26x2tov 1200, woxon; 2x62s.
The sepulchre of Minyas is mentioned immediately after his treasury
by Pausanias.
From the entrance of the treasury the citadel will be perceived,
having the appearance of a mural crown, as mentioned by
Nonnus, B. 41. XTEMMATI TEIXIOENTI IIEPIzozoEIXA MTKHNH2.
KTKAQIION KANONExx.I.
Follow the watercourse, and the gate of the lions will soon be visi-
ble on the right. In the hollow between the treasury and the hill of
the citadel, there was probably a street terminated by a gate toward
the bed of the torrent. .*
At the upper end of this hollow is a hillock, either a tumulus or the
covering of another chamber like the treasury. There were within the
city of Mycenae the tombs of Agamemnon, and of his charioteer
Eurymedon; also that of Teledamus and Pelops; with that of Electra.
That of Clytaemnestra and Ægisthus was without the walls, and at a
little distance from them. Pausanias.
KRATBATA. MYCIENAE. 35
From this tumulus the situation of the great gate of the citadel will
be perceived. When opposite to it, on examining the descent of the
hill to the left, another circular edifice, like the treasury, may be disco-
vered ; but the roof has fallen in as far as the great stone above the
gate, leaving a large circular hollow. The portal is entire, and is
about eight feet wide and 14 feet deep. One of the stones in the side
wall is of that length. The architrave is about 10 feet long.
The walls of the citadel are very curious, being evidently of the
same date with those of Tirynthus. Mycenae, in the tragedy of Her-
cules Furens, is called KYKAoſſEIAN TIOAIN; also KTKAQIION BAOPA. In
Electra. KYKAoſſEIA OrpANIA TEIXH. Again IIOAIXMA IIEPXEQx.
KYKAQIIon IIONON XEPON. Iphigenia in Aulis KTKAOTION OTMEAAx.
Ibid. Hesychius explains GTMEAH by IEPON EAAbox. Mycenae is
stated by Homer well built. Iliad, B. 2. ETKTIMENON IITOAIEOPON.
This might refer to the walls as well as the houses.
Medeon, AEpy, Iaolkos, Cleonae, Athens, and Thebes, have the
same epithet, three of which at least were fortified before the Trojan
war. Thebes particularly, Odyssey, B. 2. l. 263. and Iliad, B. 4.378.
Tiryns and Pheia, Iliad 7. 135. alone on the continent are called
well walled by Homer, yet EYKTIMENON IITOAIEOPON is by Hesiod ap-
plied to that city. Shield of Hercules. Strabo, speaking of Cleonae,
applies Homer's epithet to the walls; and Apollodorus, Book 2. says
that Perseus fortified Tiryns, Mideia, and Mycenae. The gate of the
lions is thus mentioned by Pausanias. “Some parts of the circuit of
the wall of Mycenae remain, as well as a gate, over which are lions.
F 2
36 ERABATA. MYCENAE.
These are said to be the work of the Cyclopes, who built the walls of
Tiryns for Praetus.” Corinthiaca, 59. .**
The gate is situated at the end of a recess about 50 feet deep, com-
manded by projections of the wall, which is in this part composed of
huge blocks of squared stones; but they are often placed exactly one
above another, so that the joints of three or four courses are precisely
in one perpendicular line, which gives a strange and barbarous ap-
pearance to the whole. The architrave consists of a single stone 15
feet long, and four feet four inches high.
The triangular stone, on which the lions are sculptured, is 11 feet six
inches long, nine feet eight inches high, and two feet in thickness. The
sockets about three inches in diameter, which served for the insertion
of the pivots on which the gates turned, are visible in the lower sur-
face of the architrave. The gates folded, and were secured by bars.
Perhaps the portal might be 13 or 14 feet high, if the soil were re-
moved. There is an opening like a window on the left of the gate,
but the stone which once filled it is now lying below.
\ The lions, or more properly lionesses of Mycenae, are the only
existing specimen of the sculpture of the heroic ages, and they are
worthy of particular attention. It is remarkable that they have not
the tails of lions, a circumstance observable also in the sculptures of
Persepolis, where animals very like those of Mycenae are represented
as well as lions which have the tail natural to their species. They
are not highly relieved, but the feet are well indicated. The heads
RRABATA. MYCIENAE. 37
are imperfect, so that it cannot be known which way they turned, or
whether they were seen in front.
The lions have much the appearance of the supporters of an armo-
rial shield, the fore paws being placed on a projecting ornament,
while the hinder feet rest on the architrave of the gate. Between
them is a semicircular pillar, which might be called Doric, but it di-
minishes from the capital to the base, which consists of a double
torus. The echinus of the capital is ornamented with three annulets,
at some distance from each other. The abacus is that of the Doric
order; it supports four balls or circles, which are again surmounted by
a second abacus, similar to the first.
It seems impossible to ascertain the meaning of this curious
device; but on examining the remains of the Mithratic sculptures of
Persia, which, according to Le Bruyn, are executed in the same
manner, some of the symbols bear so near a resemblance to those of
Mycenae, that they may perhaps throw some light on each other, for
the style and the subject are so similar, that it appears as if both
must have had a common origin. Thevenot gives representations of
Sculpture on the rocks of Persia, in which pillars are introduced. One
is a plain cippus supporting a bull's head; another has a flame
issuing from its summit, above which is a ball; and a third has a ball
half seen, rising from its capital.
The lion is a well known symbol of Mithras, and is often repeated
in the Persian sculptures; in fact the priests of that divinity were
$8 - KRABATA. MYCIENAE.
styled lions, (Porphyry) so that we have the pillar, the balls, and the
lions in each country, a circumstance so singular, that it may lead us
to suspect that the figures related to one and the same object. Fire
and water were the two elements revered by the Persians. The ball
represented the sun in the sculpture of that nation, and that sculp-
ture was borrowed from Egypt, Diodorus, B. 2. It is not a little
curious that balls and those spirals which in all hieroglyphics signify
water, are found at Mycenae in the treasury of Atreus, and at Perse-
polis, as may be seen in the collar round the neck of a bull, engraved
by Le Bruyn, and under the feet of some figures upon a tomb, as well
as in the miscellaneous plate. The Spartans and Argives were anci-
ently intimately connected. Tzetzes indeed calls the Argives
Lacedæmonians, and the religious rites of the Spartans were in the
instance of solar worship the same as those of the Persians, for the
Spartans sacrificed horses to the sun on the top of Taygetus, “as was
the custom in Persia.” Pausanias Laconica. They had also at Amyclas
a statue of Apollo, which was absolutely a pillar; and Meursius cites
authors who assert that he was there represented with four hands
and four ears, to which the four balls might have some allusion.
Though Juno was particularly attached to the cities of Sparta,
Argos, and Mycenae, Iliad 4, 52, yet Agamemnon invokes Jupiter,
Minerva and Apollo, not Juno in the Iliad, and Electra addresses the
sun in the opening of the tragedy. Thucydides, Book 1, Chap. 10,
hints that there were no temples at Mycenae, and the solar worship
was in some countries so notoriously without them, that the Persians
burned in derision those of the Greeks. The Cyclopes, to whom the
KRABATA. MYCIENAE. 39
sculpture at Mycenae is attributed, came originally from Syria,
(Scholiast of Euripides) which was a province of Media, Herodotus,
Book 1, where the sun was particularly revered, into Lycia, where
Apollo was equally adored, and from thence emigrated into Europe
with Sthenoboea, a princess of that country, when she came to marry
Proetus, the King of Tiryns; and this might account for the worship
of the sun at Mycenae without difficulty.
It may be added that the Phoenicians also, who traded with the
Argives, Herodotus Book 1, might have introduced the religion of
Asia; but it must be confessed that the whole may be traced to
Egypt, and the similarity of the sculptures in Persia to thoseat Mycenae,
only renders it more probable that the objects represented, such as
pillars, lions, and balls, referred to the same subject, though they are
of much more recent date in Persia; for Diodorus informs us that
Cambyses, who lived in the sixth century before Christ, not only took
ornaments, but even artists from Egypt, to adorn his palace of Perse-
polis; but these artists and ornaments came from Thebes, which the
Egyptians called the city of the Sun. Diodorus, Book 2.
There is no reason why Danaus should not have brought with him |
from Egypt the religion of that country, and the Cyclopes were em-
ployed by Proetus only three generations after the arrival of the new
Colony.
It would be endless to cite the authorities for the connexion of the
Cyclopes with Fire, Vulcan, and the Sun. They were, in fact,
40 KRABATA. MYCENAE.
called the sons of Apollo. The pillars and balls occur frequently in
Egypt. See Denon, who in plate 115, fig. 10, has three pillars, over
each of which is a ball. Fig. 12 has five balls, and fig. 17 the same
number. These circles are common on the heads of winged
figures. At Tentyra and at Apollinopolis, see plates 116 and 120,
where are more pillars surmounted with balls.
Among other conjectures, it may be imagined that the lion was the
national symbol. The Lacedaemonians certainly placed lions upon
their sepulchres, Meursius; and Agamemnon was represented on the
chest of Cypselus, with the head of a lion upon his shield. Pau-
sanias.
Some have also supposed that the four balls signified the united
kingdoms of Mycenae, Corinth, Sicyon, and Achaia ; and others
might imagine they referred to the establishment of the games of
Olympia, Nemaea, the Isthmus, and Delphi. Another conjecture
might be, that the lions represented the two which were destroyed by
Hercules on Mount Cithaeron and at Nemea, but that would refer
them only to the reign of Eurystheus. The triangular form of the
stone above the doors at Mycenae, may also have had a particular
signification; it was certainly a mysterious figure among the Egyp-
tians. Plutarch de Isid. at Osir.
To the south of the gate of the lions, the wall of the citadel is
much ruined. In one part something like a tower is visible, which
being perpendicular, while the curtain inclines a little inward from its
ICRABATA. MYCENAE. 41
base, there remained a projection at the top sufficient to enable an
archer to defend the wall below. The blocks of the superstructure
are in general of great size, while those of the foundation are much
smaller.
This is observable in almost all the very early fortifications of
Greece. Except the gates the whole circuit of the citadel is built of
rough masses of rock, but though rough, they are even yet some-
times found very nicely adjusted and fitted to each other, though the
smaller stones which filled up the interstices have generally disap-
peared. This style of building has usually been termed Cyclopian,
but it certainly appears that the walls of the most ancient cities of
the Peloponnesus, whether attributed to the Cyclopes or not, were of
this construction. Tiryns, and indeed Mycenae, differ from the rest
in the galleries and the gates, so that perhaps the ponderous method
which so much resembles the style of the Egyptians, and of which
the gate of the lions is the best specimen in Europe, is the real Cyclo-
pian, while the remainder of the circuit was erected by the natives.
These fortifications were reputed to be impregnable in ancient
times, for “when the Argives were unable to destroy the walls of
Mycenae, on account of their extraordinary strength, being like those
of Tiryns, the work of the Cyclopes, the inhabitants were forced by
famine to abandon the city. Some went to Cleonae, many into Mace-
donia, and the remainder to Cerynea, in Achaia.” Pausanias. Achaia.
Mycenae was ruined by the Argives after the battle of Ther-
mopylae, in the seventy-eighth olympiad. The Argives over-
G.
42 KRABATA. MYCENAE.
threw the buildings, and the city still remains desolate. Diodor.
Sic. Book 11.
Strabo, who is often very erroneous in his account of Greece, says
that even the ruins of Mycenae were not to be found. Of course he had
not been upon the spot. At an angle of the fortress on the south,
overlooking the ravine and torrent, is a great quantity of broken pot-
tery, both in black varnish and white, with spiral lines of a brown
colour, which seem to have been the favourite ornament at Mycenae.
The southern rampart of the citadel follows the natural irregularities
of the precipice. At the eastern point, the hill is attached by a
narrow isthmus to the mountain. On the isthmus is a fountain of
later date. On the northern side the declivity is also very steep, and
there is a gate, which consists of two stones covered by a third. The
opening is five feet 11 inches wide at the bottom, and five feet four
inches at the top. Above the architrave is a large stone approaching
the form of a triangle, with which the ruin is about 14 feet high. The
gates folded, and were secured by bars. The access to this entrance
was by an artificial terrace, which was completely commanded by
the wall. A curtain nearly in a right line extends from this gate to
that of the lions, and it is very probable that certain holes in the
earth above this wall, which are shewn by the natives as cisterns, are
actually connected with galleries similar to those of Tirynthus. After
entering the gate of the lions, there was a road commanded by a wall
which traversed the hill almost to the opposite side, before it turned
to the summit, so that the place was defended by at least a triple
enclosure.
KRABATA. MYCENAE. 43
On the top are some foundations which appear to be of an age less
remote. Roman coins have been found on the spot. The Roman
general Quintius had an interview with Nabis on the site of Mycenae,
previous to the reduction of Argos. Livy, Book 32, Chap. 39.
Upon the slope of the hill between the treasury of Atreus and the
plain of Argos to the westward, several ruins may be discovered,
which may have been included in the city in its most flourishing state
before the return of the Heracleidae, or have formed part of the Necro-
polis of Mycenae.
In the bed of the torrent which runs below the second treasury, is
one of these foundations. Lower down is another, whence turning
southward over a point of the hill, the remains of a gate almost
buried in earth may be observed.
Proceeding thence toward Krabata, a second gate is seen on the
right of the path. A little further on, is a well, beyond which are the
traces of ancient foundations. Pursuing the same track, on the left
is a garden with fruit trees, watered by a well or cistern. Wells are
generally ancient whenever they are found in Greece. º
The name of Mycenae was probably derived from its situation in a
recess formed by two mountains, and not, as Pausanias imagines,
either from a mushroom or the pommel of a sword. Corinthiaca, 58.
MTXo APTEOz. Odyssey 3, 263.
*#.
G 2
44 HERAEUM.
Between the two mountains behind Mycenae, at a very short
distance from the citadel, in the way to Barbitza, is a large stone,
under which the water rises, which probably occasioned the selection
of this situation by Perseus, who gave his name to the fount.
HERAEUM.
The Heraeum or temple of Juno is situated on the left hand, at the
distance of 15 stadia from Mycenae. Pausanias, Corinthiaca, 59.
Strabo says the Heraeum was 10 stadia from Mycenae, and 40 from
Argos. He also says that the two cities were only 50 stadia apart,
the common property of both. A rivulet called Eleutherion runs by
the side of the road. Pausanias.
This passage is curious, because from the nature of the place no
rivulet could have accompanied the road from Mycenae to the
Heraeum, in the direction of Nauplia, where the ruins might be sup-
posed to exist.
The temple itself is situated on the lower part of Mount Euboea.
The Asterion flows below the temple of Juno, where it is lost in a
chasm. On its banks grows the herb Asterion.
The stream is said to have had three daughters, Euboea, Prosymna,
and Acraea; and from one of these, the mountain which is near the
HERAEUM. 45
temple, was called Acraea, and from Eub Oea, the region in which the
temple is situated, and the place which lies below the temple was
named Prosymna from the third. Pausanias. Corinthiaca.
If it were safe to trust to Strabo, there would be every reason for
thinking that the Heraeum was situated on the foot of the mountain,
in a direct line between Mycenae and Nauplia, for no other hill ap-
proaches the road to Argos, and a place situated 40 stadia from one
city, and 10 from another, while the cities themselves were only 50
stadia apart, must have been in a line between the two. Pausanias
however gives a distance of 15 stadia from Mycenae to the Heraeum,
which allows of a considerable deviation from a right line.
The absolute site of the temple has not yet been discovered. It
has been sought for in vain upon a terrace near a village, on the left
of a line drawn from Mycenae to Nauplia. In all probability there
are some vestiges on the spot wherever it may be. Pieces of columns
of great diameter are found in the plain, at the distance of about one
mile south of Krabata. A search in this direction is however fruit-
less, and the account of it is only given that future travellers may
examine some other quarter. After passing the torrent at the ruined
Cyclopian's bridge, near the treasury of Atreus, there are several indi-
cations of buildings and heaps of stones in the fields.
Proceeding towards Nauplia, the track crosses the bed of a very
little rill, in which are the remains of another ancient bridge, which
46 IHERAEU M.
consisted only of stones of no great magnitude, stretching from one
side to the other; and in the same direction, passing over a little
eminence, on which are the traces of buildings, the bed of an incon-
siderable torrent may be found, terminating in a well, near which lies
the fragment of a column four feet 10 in diameter. Near the well is
a very large heap of stones in the plain, which might be taken for the
Heraeum, and above it on the eminence is another heap, which
might agree with the description of the position of the ancient
temple; but there are no architectural remains or large blocks which
justify the supposition. It is true, however, that the largest columns
disappear in a cultivated plain. At Tegea, nothing is visible of the
great temple but a part of two columns, and the traces of the city and
its walls are vanished.
Pausanias says, “ above the present edifice are the foundations
of the ancient temple, and such ruins as the flames spared.” The
celebrity of the goddess occasioned much splendour in her temple.
On the metopes was represented the birth of Jupiter, the battle of
the Gods and Giants, and the war of Troy. Eupolemus, the Argive,
was the architect.
There is a village called Phyti, bearing N. 37 W. from Mycenae,
situated on the base of the opposite mountain, where there are many
remains, which would justify the idea that the Heraeum was situated
there, did not Pausanias place it on the left of Mycenae. The name
qºrti or ºrtIOx might also seem applicable to the goddess : it was a
MYCENAE TO ARGOS. 47
common title both of Jupiter and Diana. The ruins of Phyti are
worth examining, and, as it is not in a route, that Pausanias says the
Heraeum is on the left hand, it is at least a very equivocal direction.
Phyti is at a distance very well corresponding with that of the
Heraeum from Mycenae. It is of great consequence to observe, that
when Pausanias says the Heraeum is to the left of Mycenae, he is not
describing the route from that city to Argos, which idea has occa-
sioned the fruitless searches on the hill south of Krabata. In Hebrew
the south and the right are synonimous, as well as the left and north.
It is worth examining whether the Greeks had any such usage of
these terms. If they had, there would remain no doubt that Phyti
was the site of the Heraeum.
MYCENAE TO ARGOS.
The road from Mycenae to Argos is thus described. Corinthiaca,
60. To the left of the way is the heroic monument of Perseus. A
little beyond this, on the right, is the sepulchre of Thyestes, on which
is placed a marble ram, in the Argive territory. Proceeding thence,
on the left is a place called Mysia, with a temple of Ceres
Mysia. You next come to the river Inachus, having passed which is
the altar of the sun, and then the gate of Argos, called that of Lucina,
from the neighbouring temple. Pausanias.
48 MYCENAE TO ARGOS.
ROUTE FROM MYCENAE TO ARGOs.
The best road from Mycenae to Argos is that which descending
the hill from Krabata falls into the direct road from Corinth at a
Khan situated about 12 minutes from the village. Something like
the foundation of walls, and six or seven tumuli are observable in the
way.
There is a fount at the Khan supplied by a channel from Kravata.
The Khan is a wretched inn, but in the summer would be the best
lodging, if the tower of Kravata was preoccupied. From the Khan
the bed of a torrent accompanies the road on the left. About four
minutes from the Khan, some foundations are visible on the road. At
seven minutes from the Khan, and 19 from Kravata, there are some
vestiges on the right. At 36 minutes a church seen on the left, and
nearer, at the distance of about 150 yards is a foundation of large
stones, with a fragment of a column about five feet in diameter.
There are other pieces in the vicinity. One or two of them have
been hollowed out as if to be used as oil mills, and it is impossible to
say whether that was not their original destination. The bed of the
torrent from the Khan ends suddenly at these foundations, which
may be about a mile and a half from Mycenae in a direct line. Had
the Heraeum been in this direction, however, Pausanias must have
described it in his route.
MYCENAE TO ARGOS. - 49
One hour from Krabata a road turns off to the left toward a
church, and the village of Pesopode is seen on the right in the
plain.
Having passed the foundations of a church on the right, the road
crosses the bed of a torrent from Pesopode, at the distance of one
hour and 15 minutes from Kravata.
Two minutes after, there is a tumulus on the right, and one
branch of the Inachus.
One hour and 30 minutes from Mycenae is the other branch of the
Inachus, which has rarely any water, but which in this part is so
broad that it requires nearly three minutes to cross it, near the ruins
of a modern bridge of three arches. Callimachus mentions the beau-
tiful waters of the Inachus in his Hymn on the baths of Pallas, but
either he had not seen it, or he must have spoken of its source, for in
the plain when there is any water it is of course muddy, like other oc-
casional torrents.
Having crossed the river, see a farm house and trees on the right.
Sixteen minutes from the bridge are foundations on the right. At
the distance of one hour and 52 minutes from Krabata, is a little
mount, which may be partly natural, and in partan artificial tumulus.
Upon it is a chapel, in which a guard is kept when the plague is at
Corinth, to prevent the entrance of suspected persons.
II
'50 MYCENAE TO NAUIPLIA.
Near it is a well. On the right is a hill projecting from the castle
of Argos, which makes one of the boundaries of the present town, and
may possibly be the Phoronean hill. This journey might probably be
performed in a little more than an hour in the Summer; the time here
given is that required when the plain is wet and the road slippery, in
which case the Greek horses being shod with bar shoes turned up be-
hind, make very little progress, and even stand with great difficulty.
Strabo says twice, that the distance from Argos to Mycenae was only
50 stadia.
MYCENAE TO NAUPLIA, BY BARBITZA AND TIRYNS.
There is a road from Mycenae to Nauplia, which is considerably
longer than that in the plain, by which some Roman ruins of no great
consequence may be seen, but by which more of the country is
examined. The direct road lies in the same plain as the route from
Mycenae to Argos, and affords little matter of interest, excepting the
ruins of Tiryns, which are equally visited in passing through Bar-
bitza.
Quitting the citadel of Mycenae, ascend eastward in a hollow be-
tween two mountains. In five minutes pass the stone under which
the fount of Perseus rises. At 13 minutes pass the traces of a wall
with a little bridge of ancient masonry. This may have been nothing
more than an opening in the wall, but the wall being ruined, it has now
MYCBNAE TO NAUPLIA, 51
the appearance of a bridge, smaller, but of the same nature with that
below the treasury of Atreus.
Here the road turns to the right. In 20 minutes reach a top, on
which pass a tumulus to the right. Descend in a direction nearly
south, having the peaked mountain on the south of Mycenae to the
right. *
A brook runs by the track into a little cultivated plain, surrounded
by mountains. That on the left, is one of the branches of Mount
Arachne, very anciently called Sapyselaton. This was the last of the
mountains on which Clytaemnestra ordered fires to be lighted, as a
sort of telegraph to convey to her the tidings of the destruction of
Troy. They lay in the following order, Lemnos, Athos, Messapius,
Cythaeron, AEgiplanctus, and Arachne. Æschylus. Aga.
In 40 minutes a house left. In 45 minutes a church, Agios De-
metrios. In 48 minutes see on the right the large church of the Panagia.
A fine stream rises and falls under it in a roaring torrent into the
ground.
It is remarkable that such a circumstance was the characteristic of
the Heraeum. But the situation with regard to both Argos and My-
cenae, puts the Panagia quite out of the question. It is surprising,
however, that there is no ancient account of a spring which is so co-
pious and so rarely found in this part of Argolis.
II 2
52 MYCENAE TO NAUPLIA.
It would be interesting to examine the spot. At 48 minutes pass
four heaps right, another on the left, surrounded with stones.
At 55 minutes cross the bed of the rivulet, a circular mount left.
In one hour pass a little castle, on an insulated hill. A cave near it.
At one hour six minutes a chapel, dedicated to St. George, shaded by
a tree. At one hour ten minutes a Roman ruin of brick, an octagonal
temple with niches. On the left a Roman bath of considerable
size. Above this some ruined chapels on the rocks.
About a mile and half to the left is the little village of Barbitza,
above which is a cave in the mountains.
From the Roman ruin proceeding toward Tiryns along the valley of
Barbitza, in five minutes see a heap of stone left. In 15 minutes
enter the bed of the stream, which is here confined in a narrow rocky
glen. In 32 minutes the glen ceases, and the road opens upon the
plain of Argos. The pass itself is called Klissura, a term often ap-
plied in Greece to such situations.
Upon a projecting hill on the right are some ruins. Strabo, speak-
J 9. 8
ing of Nauplia and Tiryns, says, “near Mideia is Prosymna, where is
the temple of Juno.”
Pausanias places Mideia somewhere in this direction, for Tirynthus
lay to the right of the military road from Argos to Epidaurus; but
having returned from Tirynthus to the road, the site of Mideia, which
TIRYNS TO NAUPLIA. 53°
lay to the left, was seen. It was the kingdom of Electryon, the fa-
ther of Alcmene. Pausanias. Argolica.
At about 40 minutes the plain is covered with stones, in a way
which often marks the site of a city in this country.
About 400 yards distant, on the right is a great heap of stones, but
in arable land such hillocks may often have been formed by collecting
the stones for the purposes of tillage. One hour from Barbitza is a
Peribolia, or walled garden on the right, and on a hill left another,
with a white tower or Pyrgo. Soon after pass some villages with
churches, two wells, and the fragment of a column.
At one hour seven minutes are two villages right. In one hour 15
minutes a village right, on the left a great church. Foundations of a
temple right. At one hour 30 minutes from Barbitza, three villages
right. Soon after pass through a village. In one hour 37 minutes a
church on the right; cross a road, a church and heap of stones left
upon a hill. On the left a heap of rocks. Enter a grove of olives,
and in one hour and 40 minutes arrive at Tiryns or Tirynthus, three
hours and 20 minutes from Mycenae, by this circuitous route. The
distance cannot be more than one hour and 30 minutes in a direct
line.
TIRYNS TO NAUPLIA.
From Tiryns to Nauplia the distance is half an hour. At eight
minutes a Vale opens on the left, the sea right and a white house left,
54 TIRYNS.
at 15 minutes another vale left, in it a church and a village, a Pyrgo
also left. Turning to the right by the shore, on the left is the hill and
castle of Palamedi, the citadel of Nauplia. Passing some pretty
gardens and kiosks or summer houses, enter the gates of the city.
There is a cavern in the rock, perhaps one of those ascribed by Strabo
to the Cyclopes, now the tomb of a Turkish Santon.
TIRYNS.
Tiryns is the best specimen of the military architecture of the heroic
ages now existing. Homer calls it the well walled Tirynthus.
Iliad 2. TIPTNOATEIXIOExxAN.
There can be no doubt that the present ruins are those of the cita-
del which existed in the age of the poet. It was built by Praetus,
about the year 1379, B. C. descended through Abas and Lynceus
from Danaus. The fortress is placed upon a small mount not 50 feet
above the level of the plain, though there are some insulated hills in
the vicinity which might have been much more easily defended. The
circuit of the citadel was never larger than at present, as the founda-
tions are perfect. The city of course surrounded the fortress, for the
area is not sufficient to have contained the houses of the inhabitants,
however insignificant the colony might have been.
The sea was probably much nearer in very early times than it is at
present, being nearly 15 minutes distant. Mr. Bryant, without
TIRYNS. 55
having any information on the subject of the existing ruins, asserts
that the plan of Tiryns was taken from the shape of the long ship of
Danaus, and in effect the place bears a strong resemblance to that
figure, the stern placed on the south toward Nauplia, and the head
toward the north.
There were three entrances, one on the east, another on the west,
and a third at the south eastern angle.
The entrance on the east is in tolerable preservation. A sloping
way 15 feet wide ascended from the plain along the eastern and
southern sides of a solid tower about 20 feet Square, and 43 feet in
height, passing at the end of the second side under a gateway com-
posed of tremendous blocks of stone, the architrave being 10 feet six
inches in length.
It seems very probable that there was a triangular stone above the
architrave of this portal, for two pieces, making together a triangle of
about five feet four, by four feet seven, divided perpendicularly are
now lying near the spot. If they have ever been sculptured, one of
the pieces is ruined by time, and the other has the face downward.
The gate was hung upon a large pivot in the centre, which was let
into the architrave and the threshold, so that one of the sides opened
inwards, while the other advanced when a person entered, a convinc-
ing proof of remote antiquity, and the simplicity of the times in which
it was constructed. To the south of this portal is the best Specimen
56 TIRYNS.
of the galleries in the wall, which extend to the south eastern angle.
The wall is generally about 25 feet in thickness, and consists of three
parallel ranks of stones five feet in thickness, which separate two
ranges of galleries, each five feet broad, and in their present state
about 12 feet high. The sides of these galleries are formed by two
courses of stone, and the covering consists of two other horizontal
courses which project till they meet. The roof is pointed when seen
from below, the lower surfaces of the stones being cut in an angle of
about 45 degrees. That part of the gallery which is now uncovered
is about 90 feet in length, and has six openings or recesses toward the
east, one of which is a kind of window or door, which perhaps commu-
nicated with some exterior building which no longer exists in this
place, but of which some foundations appear. The space between
these niches varies from 10 feet six inches to nine feet eight, and the
niches themselves are from five feet six to four feet 10 wide. These
galleries were probably continued round the whole of the citadel, but
they are accessible at present only at the southern part of it, where
the walls are least perfect. w
They were probably the retreat of the garrison in case of a siege,
for there does not appear to have been any opening toward the plain,
as no windows or loop holes remain, which would have been the case
had they been destined to any military purpose. If the inner gallery
received light from the inclosed area, the exterior must still have re-
mained almost dark. The portal at the south eastern angle has
entirely disappeared. It was connected with the eastern gate by an
avenue inclosed between the outer wall and an inner curtain.
TIRYNS. 57
*
There are here, as at Mycenae, some traces of edifices of a later
date, and a cistern upon the top of the citadel. The northern point
of the hill is less elevated than the other, and the wall is generally
composed of stones of less magnitude than those which are em-
ployed in the galleries. -
On the eastern side near the tower, the wall has been entirely de-
stroyed. This is probably the work of the Argives, that the city might
be left entirely defenceless. On the western side there is a smaller
entrance, situated in a recess in the wall. This recess is defended by
a wall which projects in a curve, and of which the foundations only
remain. The gate itself is six feet one inch wide. The whole length
of the citadel does not exceed 220 yards, and the breadth in
the widest part is only 60. Within a few paces of the fortress on
the south is a well. Among the ruins of Tiryns, Pausanias says, the
walls alone remain, which are said to have been the work of the
Cyclopes.
They are built of rough stones, of which each is of such a size, that
a yoke of mules could not draw the least of them.
Originally little ones were inserted, which united the larger stones
better together. Between Tiryns and the sea are the Thalamoi, or
chambers of the daughters of Praetus. Tirynthus was destroyed by
the Argives when they depopulated several of the neighbouring cities,
to increase the number of inhabitants at Argos. Pausanias. Corin-
#hiaca 25.
58 TIRYNS.
Tiryns was totally destroyed like Mycenae about 466 years before
Christ, and two statues were transported from its ruins to Elis. Pau-
sanias. Arcadia. It seems not to have flourished after the return of
the Heracleidae.
It was either built or became first a royal residence in the time of
Praetus, who lived according to the chronology of the marbles, 1379
years before Christ. In the course of the next generation the seat of
government was again removed to Mycenae, and Tiryns of course de-
creased. It has the honour of being the first of all the cities of
Greece mentioned by Homer, as in possession of the art of conveying
thoughts, if not by letters, yet certainly by symbols, which answered
the purpose. Iliad 6, l. 169. Tiryns was for some time the residence
of Hercules, who is sometimes named Tirynthius, from that cir-
Cumstance.
Pliny says that there are some animals which are innocent with
respect to the natives, as is the case with certain small snakes at Ti-
rynthus, which are said to be produced by the earth. Pliny, Nat.
Hist. Book 8, Chap. 59. These serpents are fatal to strangers. Ibid.
Little is known of the Tirynthians, but their immoderate propensity
to laughter. See Voyage d’Anacharsis, who quotes a story from
Athenaeus, Book 6, Chap. 17. -
The Was a place called Sipeia in the vicinity of Tiryns, this was
probably a hill. Herodotus, Book 6, 77.
ARGOS. 59
ARGOS.
The public buildings in the city of Argos were very numerous.
Pausanias says, that arriving at Argos from Mycenae, the gate by which
you enter is called that of Lucina from the neighbouring temple. Of
the Argive temples, that of Apollo Lycius is by far the most
splendid. Corinthiaca, 61.
Here are the sepulchres of Linus, the son of Apollo, and of Psama-
tha, the daughter of Crotopos. Not far distant is the temple of Ne-
macan Jupiter. Proceeding, the sepulchre of Phoroneus is on the right.
Beyond the temple of Nemaean Jupiter is a very ancient temple of
fortune. The next tomb is that of Choria the Bacchanal.
The temple of the hours is not far distant; returning from which are
the statues of the chiefs who besieged Thebes, and a cenotaph of those
Argives who went to Troy. There is also the temple of Jupiter the
Saviour, from which you come to the cell in which the Argive matrons
deplore the death of Adonis. To the right of the entrance of this
temple is that dedicated to the river Cephissus. The water of that
river is supposed to have flowed below this temple, when Neptune
had dried up the bed of the stream. Near the temple of the Ce-
phissus is the head of Medusa sculptured in stone, said to have been
the Work of the Cyclopes. The district behind this is called Criterion.
I 2
60 ARGOS.
Not far distant is the theatre, above which is a temple of Venus. Co-
rinthiaca, 63. Descending from the temple of Venus, and turning
toward the Agora, the monument of Cerdos, the wife of Phoroneus is
seen. Here is a district called Delta. Before this is the altar of
Jupiter Liberator, and near it the monument of Hypermnestra.
Near this is the sepulchre of Talaus, the son of Bias. There is the
temple of Minerva Salpinga, or the trumpet, before which is the tomb
of Epimenides.
The Argives are mistaken in saying that the building of white
marble in the centre of the Agora is a trophy over Pyrrhus, King of
Epirus; it was raised over the spot where his funeral pile was con-
structed, which is indicated by the sculpture of elephants, and the rest
of his military train upon it. There is a temple of Ceres near, with
the shield of Pyrrhus. Not far from the building is a tumulus of
earth, in which they pretend the head of Medusa is buried.
Near the tumulus of the Gorgon is that of Gorgophone, the
daughter of Perseus. Before this tomb is the trophy erected over the
tyrant Laphaes. From this trophy the temple of Latona is not far
distant. To the right of this is the temple of Juno, styled the flowery.
Before the temple of Juno, is the tomb of those women who fell
fighting against the Argives under Perseus.
Opposite to this tomb is the temple of the Pelasgic Ceres, near
which is the tomb of Pelasgus. Having passed the tomb, there is a
ARGOS. 61
cippus of brass, supporting the statues of Diana, Jupiter, and
Minerva. Some pretend that the cippus contains the bones of Tan-
talus.
In the same place is the temple of Neptune Prosclystius, or the in-
undator. Proceeding onward, the sepulchre of Argos is seen. Next
follows the temple of Castor and Pollux. Near this is the temple of
Lucina. Beyond the temple of Lucina is that of Hecate.
In the direct way to the Gymnasium, which is called that of Cylara-
bus, is the tomb of Licymnius, the son of Electryon. Turning from
the Cylarabus and the gate which is near it, is the tomb of Sacadas,
the musician.
In the gymnasium of Cylarabus, is the tomb of Sthenelus, and
that of Cylarabus, and near the gymnasium is the common monument
of those Argives who accompanied the Athenians to Syracuse. From
thence there is a street named Coele, on the right of which is the
temple of Bacchus, and near it the palace of Adrastus, and the tem-
ple of Amphiaraus. Beyond the temple is the monument of
Eriphyle, after which is the temple of Æsculapius and that of
Baton.
Returning from Coele, the monument of Syrnethus is seen. The
Argives have a temple of HEsculapius. There is also a monument of
Deianira. The Argives possess also many other objects of curiosity,
among these is a subterraneous edifice, in which was the Thalamos or
62 ARGOS.
chamber of brass, which Acrisius is said to have built to confine his
daughter, but which Perilaus destroyed. The chamber still exists,
and in it is the monument of Crotopos, and the temple of Bacchus
Cresius, so called because Bacchus buried Ariadne in that place.
Lyceas says, that when the temple was rebuilt, a fictile urn was
found, containing the ashes of Ariadne, which was seen by himself and
many of the Argives.
Near the temple of Bacchus is that of the celestial Venus.
The citadel is called Larissa. Ascending to it is the temple of
Juno Acraea; also that of Apollo, called from the place Deiradiotes,
or upon the ridge. Near this is a temple of Minerva, also a stadium
in which games are held in honour of Nemaean Jupiter and Juno.
In the way to the citadel, is also on the left hand the tomb of the
sons of AEgyptus, whose heads are buried here, as their bodies are at
Lerna. On the highest point of the Acropolis is the temple of La-
rissaean Jupiter, without a roof. Near it is a temple of Minerva,
worthy of notice. Pausanias. Corinthiaca, 63.66.
There were many aqueducts in the lower part of the city of Argos.
Plutarch's Life of Pyrrhus.
Strabo gives some account of Argos. “The greater part of the city
is in the plain. The citadel is called Larissa, and is placed on a
mount tolerably well fortified, on which there is a temple of Jupiter.
ARGOS. 63
Near the city flows the Inachus, a river like a torrent, the sources of
which are in Lyrceius, a mountain of Cynuria in Arcadia. It is a
fiction of the poets that Argos is not provided with water, for the
country is a vale, through which rivers run, and there are also lakes
and marshes; the city too is supplied by means of wells even in the
highest part. The tumulus of Danaus, who built the Acropolis, is in
the centre of the Agora, and is called Palinthos. Strabo. In this
short account, Strabo, who is generally incorrect, makes two
blunders, for Larissa is on a very high and defensible rock, and was
very well walled; also the Inachus, though it may rise in a mountain
called Lyrceius, yet never approaches Cynuria, which last is not a
part of Arcadia, but is, as Strabo afterwards informs us from Thucy-
dides, in the Argive territory, and on the frontier of Laconia.
Pausanias indeed mentions Cynurians in Arcadia, but only as a co-
lony, and evidently a part of the Argive tribe.
The modern Argos is situated exactly on the site of the ancient
city, but the hill of the citadel, the citadel itself, and the Phoronean
hill are now totally deserted.
As Pausanias enters the city from Mycenae, many edifices enume-
rated in his account must have stood in a street which ran from the
eastern extremity of the Phoronean hill or Aspis, and terminated in
the theatre. The theatre yet remains, cut in the natural rock, at the
south eastern extremity of the hill of the Acropolis, so that two
points and the main street between them are clearly ascertained.
64 ARGOS.
The temple of Venus above the theatre is now replaced by a little
chapel, where there is a broken inscription, evidently relating to that
goddess.
The district called Criterion, which was perhaps a suburb, might
have been situated on the foot of the hill of Larissa, but behind the
theatre, and temple of Venus.
The gate Diampares, mentioned by Plutarch, was near the Gym-
nasium, called Cylarabus, and was probably in the eastern part of the
city, for Pyrrhus marching with his army at night from Nauplia
entered at this gate.
The Cylarabis was about three hundred paces from the city, ac-
cording to Livy, Book 34, Chap. 26, but Pausanias does not mention
that it was without the walls. Perhaps it might have been situated
on the spot now occupied by a large mosque and college surrounded
with cypresses.
Argos had walls of the same species with those of Mycenae and
Tiryns; the poets characterize them by the same epithets; indeed they
were so strong that Cleomenes in the Achoean war, was unable to
make any impression upon them. Polybius, Book 2. Seneca also
says, that Argos had Cyclopian towers.
Euripides mentions also at Argos, TEIXEXIN KTKAQIIIoI2, Cyclopian
walls. Iphigénia in Aulis.
ARGOS. 65
In the Troades, AProx. INA TEIXEA AAINA KTKAnnEI orPANIA
NEMONTAI.
On the western side of the hill of the acropolis, these fortifications
may be traced, and on the other side along the base of the hill to the
north of the theatre, another piece of ruined wall is yet discoverable,
on which are some sepulchral inscriptions almost destroyed by time,
The foundations on the western side seem the most ancient.
It is probable only Larissa and the other hill, which was that called
the Phoronean city, Pausanias, were fortified, or even inhabited in
very early times.
There was a strong position in the city named Aspis. Plutarch in
Ahe Life of Pyrrhus. Livy says Argos had two citadels, Book 34,
Chap. 25, and there seems no second situation at all adapted to the
purposes of defence, except the summit of the hill of Phoroneus.
There was a hill called Prona either within the walls or in the neigh-
bourhood of Argos, on which Danaus assembled his associates.
The hill of Phoroneus was the spot on which that chief convened
his followers, and erected the first city, calling it by his own name.
When the acropolis of Larissa was built, the former remained a second
or lower citadel, and the fortress must have been that called
Aspis.
66 ARGOS.
The hill might also have been called Aspis from its shape and ap-
pearance, which is that of a shield.
The summit of this hill is now the site of a chapel. To the south
of this, a little way down the hill, subterraneous passages may be
found, covered like the galleries of Tiryns with approaching stones.
It is possible these may have originally served as cisterns, for they are
at present entirely below the soil. The form is exactly similar to those
in the citadel of Mycenae, and they are like them only at present vi-
sible in places where the upper stones does not unite. There was in
ancient times a palace at Argos, the walls of which were remarkably
strong, and supposed to have been built by the Pelopidae. Euripides
Orestes.
From the Clarabus a street called Coele ran toward the spot
where the Phoronean hill joined the rock of Larissa, under a monastery
curiously perched upon the precipice toward the north east.
The name Coele on the hollow could not so well apply to any other
situation in the city.
At the extremity of this street, must have been a gate, because it
was the natural way to Lyrceia and Orneae, and still continues to be so.
This was probably the gate Deiras, for Pausanias having passed
the temple of Juno Acraea, seems to have turned out of the way to
ARGOS. 67
visit that of Apollo Deiras, for having mentioned the objects near that
temple, he again mentions his return to the direct road to the
citadel.
The western side of Larissa is also too steep to have admitted of an
entrance from the plain, so that it seems at least probable that the
great monastery under the north eastern precipices of Larissa, which is
itself perched on a lofty rock, is upon the site of the temple of Apollo
Deiras, its name alluding to its situation.
This monastery is very curiously placed, and the rock has a cavern
very well adapted to the delivery of those oracles which issued from
the temple of Apollo. Pausanias.
The monastery is also close to the wall, the foundations of which
are visible running in a right line from the acropolis to the gate which
was immediately below it. There is here also space sufficient for the
stadium, which could not have been the case on the hill of Larissa, or
on the western side of it. The brazen chamber of Danaae was of
course erected on the slope of the Phoronean hill, or in that of La-
rissa, for it is described as a subterraneous edifice, in the same words
as the treasury of Atreus, and the two other buildings of the same
description at Orchomenos and Delphi are placed on a steep slope,
for the convenience of the entrance which such a situation affords.
The principal gates seem to have been four in number, but the
great extent of the city must have rendered others necessary.
K 2
68 ARGOS.
The roads from Mantinea, Oenoe, and Lyrceia, fell in at the gate
called Deiras; from the next gate, that of Lucina, the road ran to
the Heraeum and Mycenae, Nemea, Cleonae, and Corinth, as well as
another branch to Phlius and Sicyon.
The next gate was probably that called Diampares, and the road
from it led to Tirynthus and Epidaurus, to Temenos and Nauplia.
The fourth gate was on the south, whence a road to the left led to
Lerna and the Alcyonian lake, and another to Tegea, by way of the
fount of the Erasinus, and the village of Hysies. The acropolis of
Larissa had only one large gate, which must have been on the south, .
the other sides being too steep for a road. On the summit are the
remains of the inner inclosure or curtain of very ancient, but not Cy-
clopian masonry. The form of which can only be understood by
reference to a drawing.
The towers, which make a respectable figure from below, and have
a thūst imposing appearance when first seen on the road from
Sicyon, are of Venetian construction. At the base of one on the
south is a very ancient inscription, apparently containing names,
among which seem to be those of Hippomedon, Adrastos, Dorthago-
ras, and Aristomachus, but it is very imperfectly connected, and one
of the lines only seems to have been written from right to left.
Willoison intimates, that there exists at Argos a very curious in-
scription, and probably alluded to this in the citadel. It deserves a
very Particular examination. Thereisacistern orwell covered with ap-
ARGOS. 69
proaching stones, on the north side of the hill of the citadel, a little
below the wall of the castle. There seem to be no traces of the tem-
ples on the hill, but it commands a magnificent and extensive view
of the gulph, and of the plain of Argos.
The present town of Argos consists of a very large collection of cot-
tages, built in right lines, and generally only one story high. Among
these the houses of the rich Greek archons rise very conspicuously, and
have generally gardens and court-yards, so that the city takes up al-
most as much of the flat ground as the ancient Argos ; though it has
not four thousand inhabitants. The number of houses seems to be in-
creasing rapidly. There are few Turks in the town ; a stranger may
lodge at the house of the archon Blasopoulo, a rich Greek merchant,
with an English protection, who is civil to strangers, and enjoys a
great reputation in the country for integrity. There is a Turkish
school in the town. A stranger should take his Janissary with him
when he walks out at Argos, as the children are troublesome. A
large church at the southern extremity of the town contains the frag-
ments of Ionic columns, and some inscriptions. Near it are two mu-
tilated statues, and in a wall is the trunk of a colossal figure of white
marble, in a costume which appears to be Roman.
One of the Mosques is said to have been erected with blocks
brought from the grove of Æsculapius in Epidauria. Some inscrip-
tions might possibly be found there. The theatre at the south eastern
extremity of the hill of Larissa, yet remains tolerably entire, the seats
being hewn out of the rock. +
70 STYMPHALUS TO AGIOS GIORGIOS.
STYMPHALUS TO AGIOS GIORGIOS.
The ruins of the city of Stymphalus are situated on an abrupt rock
projecting into a lake of the same name in Arcadia. These ruins are
to be found near a village called Chione, consisting of a few houses
placed between the northern shore of the lake Zaracca, and the
southern base of the mountain Zyrie, the ancient Cyllene. The size
of this lake is very much diminished during the summer months.
It is the source of the Erasinus, which after descending into a
chasm now called Katabathron, and by the ancient Arcadians
ZEPEOPON and BAPAOPON; reappears near Argos, 200 stadia, or about
20 miles distant. Strabo, Book 6. As it is not easy to fix the pre-
cise spot where Arcadia terminates, and either Phliasia or Argolis be-
gins, this route will commence from the southern shore of the lake
where the road from Phonea or Pheneos, quits it at a point opposite
to Chione. On leaving the lake, ascend to a place, whence looking
back, is a fine view of the lake and Mount Zyrie.
Hence descending into a little valley, on the left is a fine precipice,
at the foot of which in the plain are the foundations of the walls of
an ancient town.
It is probable that this is the site of the ancient Alea, an Arcadian
city, of which little is known, but of which the coins yet exist. It sent
STYMPHALUS TO AGIOS GIORGIOS. 71
deputies to the general meeting of the cities of Argolis. There was
at Alea a temple of the Ephesian Diana, one of Minerva Alea, and a
third of Bacchus.
These foundations are at the distance of about 15 minutes from the
height which commands the fine view of the lake of Stymphalus. In
20 minutes cross a brook called Xeropotamo or the dry river, a name
so common in Greece, that it is impossible to ascertain whether it be
the usual name of this torrent, or is only applied to it by the guides
from its being frequently without water.
This brook runs toward the right down the plain, and a road which
leads to Tripolizza, the modern capital of the Morea, turns off in the
same direction. There is a village, as the guides say, called
Skoteini, near which the brook passes. It consists of 100 houses, and
is about two hours distant from the ruins last mentioned.
There exist some vestiges of building near the river. In 27 minutes
after, ascending from the little plain, in a gap between the moun-
tains, pass an ancient heap of stones on the left.
At 30 minutes descend. At 35 pass a heap of small stones called
an anathema. The method used by a modern Greek to draw down
curses upon his enemy is this. He takes a quantity of stones and
places them in a heap in a conspicuous part of the road, cursing his
neighbour as he places each stone. As no man is supposed to be
anathematized without having committed some heinous sin, it be-
72 STYMT'HALUS TO AGIOS GIORGIOS.
comes the duty of all good christians to add at least one stone, and
its consequent curse to the heap, so that it often increases to a consi-
derable size. Not far from this is a second anathema. The moun-
tain on the right is called Platani.
At 55 minutes, ascending a little, see on the right of the road
and very near it, a large mount of earth, surrounded and sustained by
a circular wall of rough stones. The wall and the tumulus have been
cut through the centre, from one side to the other. This singular
monument is so like that described by Pausanias as the tomb of
AEpytus mentioned by Homer, that it must at least have been the se-
pulchre of some very remarkable person, if its situation should not be
found to agree with that of AEpytus himself. The excavation is a cu-
rious circumstance, as it must have been made from motives of cu-
riosity. Though the tomb of Æpytus was in Arcadia, and not in
Argolis or Phliasia, yet it was at least near the confines of these coun-
tries, and as it was an object of such curiosity to the ancients them-
selves, it is not improper to give the account which Pausanias has
left us of that monument. “It is a heap of earth of no very great
magnitude, surrounded by a circle of stones.” Pausanias. Arcadica,
Chap. 26.
Having quitted the tumulus, pass a well near a rivulet. Near the
well are some foundations. There is but little cultivation in this part
of the country, which is here an ugly bushy flat, sloping a little
toward the right. At one hour five minutes, pass a tumulus with a
few old oaks, and soon after a chapel left. At two hours 28 minutes
STYMPHALUS TO AGIOS GIORGIOS. 73
pass a dell, and a torrent running to the right. The place is called
Roumariou Langathe, which seems to mean nothing more than the
wood of Arbutus. The continuation of Mount Platani is on the
right, at the distance of more than two miles. The plain of Stympha-
lus extends on the left as far as this spot, but is not seen.
At one hour 39 minutes on a top whence descend, with a fine view
over the plain of Agios Giorgios.
A heap of stones right, the plain and the village of Agios Basili,
bearing S. 68 E. which is the general direction of the whole route.
At one hour 50 minutes a very steep and winding descent, proba-
bly the boundary of Arcadia, which continues, till at two hours 15
minutes, when the road crosses a brook running to the right, the
banks of which are sustained by walls. Here in the plain many
foundations are visible, the road is conducted upon a kind of terrace,
which has been the foundation of the wall of a city of some extent.
This is the site of the city of Phlius, to which there seems to have
been a way from Argos, passing through Lyrceia and Orneae.
Pausamias.
The road by Agios Giorgios is not the shortést from Argos to the
ruins here mentioned, for there is a hollow in the hill on the western
side of Mount St. Basili, toward Schoino Chorio, which must be near
the position of Lyrceia. It is probable that Agis passed by this
route from Phlius into the plain of Argos. Thucydides, Book 5. 58.
L
74. TO AGIOS GIORGIOS.
On the right pass a chapel, and on two low eminences observe frag-
ments which seem to indicate the position of two temples. On the
hill left called Gaureas or Gabrias is a village called Abanitza, near
which some caverns are visible. In the same direction are water
mills. At two hours 20 minutes, observe the ruins of a wall. Hence
a raised causey crosses the plain toward Mount St. Basili. At two
hours 23 minutes another wall. At two hours 27 minutes, leave the
walls of the city which turn off to the left by the foundations of a
chapel. The city seems to have extended almost half across the plain.
At two hours 35 minutes, observe the foundations of a wall, Mount
St. Basili not far distant on the right. At two hours 40 minutes, some
cultivation. Cross a deep rivulet by a ruined bridge. At two hours
47 minutes observe several squared stones on the point of St. Basili.
At two hours 55 minutes see on the left some great stones, which may
have been monuments. At three hours five minutes, pass the founda-
tions of a wall. At three hours 12 minutes, on a projecting point of
St. Basili, observe a wall from the mountain to the torrent. Here is
a little chapel on a mount, dedicated to St. Irene, in which are the ar-
chitectural ornaments of a temple. In the brook is a column which
seems to be Ionic. At three hours 15 minutes, cross a bridge not
arched, but made with an architrave. The brook runs to the left.
At three hours 25 minutes, reach a church dedicated to St. Giorgio.
Over the door is part of a small doric frieze. Here leave the road to
Argos, turning to the left toward the large Greek village of Agios
Giorgios, which is about three hours and 40 minutes from the lake of
Stymphalus. The best house to lodge a stranger at Agios Giorgios,
AGIOS GIORGIOS TO ARGOS. 75
is that of Giorgio Conomopoli, a very civil man, and well known in
this country. The red wine of Agios Giorgios is excellent, and has
more the of the flavour of Burgundy, than the other wines of the
Morea. From Agios Giorgios, Nemea might be visited, but it is at
the distance of more than one hour, so that Kutchumadi is the best
place to lodge a stranger who wishes to examine the ruins of the
temple.
AGIOS GIORGIOS TO ARGOS.
Leaving Agios Giorgios descend a little into the plain. At 22
minutes, cross the bed of a torrent, which runs like all the streams in
the plain of Agios Giorgios into a river anciently known by the name
of Orneae, and which flowing below the walls of Phlius and of Sicyon
falls into the Corinthian Gulph.
Enter a gorge between Mount Sanalipsis on the left, and the mount
and monastery of the Panagia or Virgin, right. The people of the
country talked of a mount called Polyphengos in this direction. The
monastery is very curiously placed on a kind of shelf in the face of a
lofty precipice, and is very difficult of access. This mountain con-
tinues on the right of the road, till 37 minutes. At its base runs a
stream toward the plain of Agios Giorgios. At 45 minutes, pass a
heap of stones. At 50 cross a river and the foundation of a wall,
which seems to have been the boundary of a territory. At 55 cross
another wall of the same nature.
L 2
76 AGIOS GIORGIOS TO ARGOS.
Such double walls at a short distance from each other are very
common in Greece. The walls here mentioned seem to be continued
across the road from Nemaea to Mycenae, see the route, where they
are separated by a space equal to about eight minutes. They may
have formed the boundaries of the jurisdiction of the city of Mycenae.
At one hour observe a foundation on the foot of a hill on the right.
Across a brook which runs toward the north see a fountain. At one
hour 16 minutes pass a heap of stones left. Two minutes after, upon
an ascent, pass a hillock, the soil and stones of which are so deeply
tinged with green by the neighbourhood of copper, that it resembles
a bank covered with verdure. From this point the streams begin to
run toward the south. At one hour 20 minutes five or six anathemas
are scen. On the right are bushy mountains. Some cultivation and
a heap of ruins on a descent to the left toward the valley in which
lies the road between Nemaea and Mycenae.
A torrent also runs in that direction. At one hour 35 minutes as-
cend, a conic hill lies on the left. At 40 on a summit whence descend
in a bushy glen passing many heaps called anathemas.
The track is very dangerous in this part, as it frequently ends at
once in deep chasms, which the rain in the season of violent showers
has occasioned in the earth. At one hour 50 minutes a stream runs
to a mill on the left. Here the road turns a little to the right. At
two hours 14 minutes a brook running from the right, cultivation left.
At two hours 20 minutes another road from Agios Giorgios falls in
on the left, crossing the brook. At two hours 25 minutes the road
AGIOS GIORGIOS TO ARGOS. 77
crosses a stream and valley, falling to the left into the vale near My-
cenae. The road then ascends. At two hours 40 minutes on a top,
the ground falls toward the right, see Argos and Nauplia, the sea, and
the plain. Here a road turns off to the left passing through a village
called Phytai or Phyti at the foot of the hill, into the plain and to
Nauplia. -
The same road passes through Phyti to Krabata and Mycenae. At
two hours 55 minutes observe some very ancient walls on the left near
the road. On a lower part of the mountain on the left near the vil-
lage of Phyti see a large area enclosed with the foundations of ans
cient walls, below which are other ruins. At three hours three mi-
nutes, having descended from the hill, see a ruin across the bed of a
river a little to the left of the road. Ruins which may be those of a
temple left. . This place is about one mile and a half distant from
Mycenae, a measure which accords perfectly with that of 15 stadia
given by Pausanias as the distance between that city and the Heraeum
or temple of Juno. There are two difficulties, however, in fixing
upon this spot, as the site of the Junonium, for Strabo, speaking of
Nauplia observes, that Mount Prosymna, on which was the Heraeum,
is near to Midea, which is near Licymnia, a citadel only 12 stadia dis-
tant from Nauplia, and Pausanias says that the Heraeum lay on the
left of Mycenae, while Phytai is decidedly on the right, if a person at
Mycenae looks toward Argos and the sea, which seems most natural.
The testimony of Strabo, however, is very unsatisfactory, and it
should be repeated, that Pausanias is not describing any route when
he says the Heraeum lies to the left of Mycenae.
78 ARGOS TO TEGEA.
As to the river Asterion mentioned by Pausanias, it might have
been that stream which enters the plain below Mycenae, and turning
toward the west is now lost in the low ground between the khan of
Krebata and the village of Phyti. In three hours 45 minutes reach
the village of Pesopode. At four hours 12 cross the Inachus, then
the torrent Charadrus, and at five hours enter Argos.
ARGOS TO TEGEA.
On the right of the road to Tegea is Mount Lycona, on which are
many cypresses. On the summit of the mountain is erected the tem-
ple of Diana Orthia, and there are also statues of Latona and Diana
in white marble, the works of Polyclitus. Tescending from the
mountain, on the right of the road is another temple of Diana, beyond
which in the same direction is a mountain called Chaon, the foot of
which is covered with fruit trees.
Here the waters of the Erasinus burst forth into an open channel,
deriving their origin from Stymphalus of the Arcadians, in the same
manner as the springs called Rheti, which run into the sea near
Eleusis, flow from the Euripus.
At the spot where the fount of the Erasinus gushes out of the moun-
tain, a feast is held in honour of Bacchus and Pan. Returning to
the road to Tegea on the right of a place called Trochon is Kenchraea.
Descending to a lower place, the ruins of Hysiae are seen, which was
a city of Argolis. Pausanias. The modern route follows.
ARGOS TO TRIPOLITSA. 79
ARGOS TO TRIPOLITSA.
Quit Argos by the road which passes below the theatre, and which
runs in the plain at the foot of the mountains Lycone and Chaon,
which are of no great height. (See the design taken from the acro-
polis of Argos). In one hour arrive at the fount of the Erasinus, which
the road crosses. The river rises on the right, from the rock, and
with such force, that in the space of fifty yards it forms three sepa-
rate streams, each of which turns a mill. A little above the source is
a deep cavern, of which the entrance is nearly blocked up by masses
of rock. The extent of this cavern has not been ascertained, on ac-
count of the number of serpents with which it is said to abound.
Early in October the heat of the cavern was greater than that of the
open air. *
* “The plain of Lerna is at present infested by the same hydra formerly slain by
Hercules, and in fact requires the assistance of the hero as much as ever ; for the
monster has availed itself of its renascent property, and desolates the plain with as
much ferocity as in ancient times. This formidable scourge is really composed of
several very abundant sources, which form the Erasinus, and which in winter, the
Turks, notwithstanding the many dams they have built in order to prevent it, find it
impossible to restrain from flooding the neighbouring lands. The water becoming
stagnant, produces in summer those fevers and other maladies with which the inha-
bitants of the plain are annually afflicted.
“The modern name of the sources is Kephalaria, or the Heads.
8O ARGOS TO TRIPOLITSA.
About two miles beyond the fount of the Erasinus, cross the bed
of a torrent, and turning to the right, ascend from the plain, by a
rough and rocky road. There is a curious passage of Aristotle which
alludes to the nature of the soil and the cultivation of the plain of
Argos. “In the times of Troy, the soil of Argos, as it was marshy,
was able to maintain but a small number ; that of Mycenae was
good, and therefore more valuable. Now the contrary has taken
place from the reason which I have already mentioned. The one has
become barren and altogether dry; and the parts of the other which
Were once, on account of the stagnant water, barren, are now become
productive.” Aristotel Meteor.
This road winds among the hills. At three hours 30 minutes is the
ruin of a khan, near which is abroken column and some squared blocks.
From this khan there is a magnificent view in the direction of the
sea. On the left is Lerna. Mount Pontinus is seen below, and
Nauplia with the gulph. At four hours 45 a khan. Hence the
road runs in a direction nearly west. Pass a small rich valley with
two villages, Agios Giorgios and Araithurea on the right near the
“These particulars serve to explain sufficiently the nature of this water serpent, and
many-headed monster.
* It is likewise to be observed, that as soon as the great heats of summer arrive, the
fevers decrease. Hercules, although partaking in great measure of a human character,
was certainly in some respects an allegorical personification of the sun , but can this
have any reference to the peculiar mode adopted by him of destroying the Hydra?”
This note is taken from the Manuscript Journal of the Earl of Aberdeen.
TEGEA BY STENO TO NAUPLIA. 81
khan. This valley in all probability was the territory of the town of
Hysiae. On the opposite side, ascend by a very steep and zigzag
causeway to a summit, after which there is a descent into the vale of
Tripolizza. The whole time employed in this route is nine hours 15
minutes.
It is possible to perform this journey in less than five hours, with a
very good horse, notwithstanding the hills, but this is not effected
without some risk. By trotting, when the road lies in a plain, about
one hour and thirty minutes may be saved.
TEGEA. IBY STENO TO NAUIPLIA.
From the village called Peali on the site of Tegea, there is another
road passing along the plain of Tripolizza to the village of Steno. The
road described in the last route turns off to the right through an open-
ing in the hills.
Steno is about one hour and 30 minutes from Peali. It is called
Steno, from its situation in a very narrow pass between two high
rocks. From Steno pass the mountains by a descent called the Scala
tou Bey, or the Bey's Causeway, from the Turk who constructed the
road. The scenery is very bold and picturesque. At the bottom of
the Scala is a torrent running to the gulph of Nauplia. On the opposite
side of a glen observe ruins apparently those of a temple, and termed
M *
82 TEGEA TRY STENO TO NAUT'LIA.
Iero by the guides. Soon after this the road joins the great road from
Tripolizza to Argos, crossing it and passing to the south of it at the
khan in the valley.
Hence proceeding down a long rocky slope frequently in the bed
of a torrent, reach a cultivated plain on the coast, a little south of the
mills upon the Alcyonian lake near Lerna.
From the mills now called Mylae, which have given name to the
place, and where, if necessary, a lodging may be found, there is a road
on the beach to Nauplia; but a guide is necessary on account of the
rivers in the way. There is a bridge over one of the outlets of
Lerna.
“Those who go from Lerna to Temenium see the mouth of the
Phrixus. At Temenium is a temple of Neptune and another of
Venus, also a sepulchre of Temenos. Temenos is distant from Nau-
plia, as I think, 50 stadia.” Pausamias Argolica.
The Lernaean marsh lies on the left, formed by the rivers Phrixus
and Erasinus. In the way may be observed certain rocks or stones
nearly on a level with the surface of the sea. The guides call the
place Scala, which implies a port. The ruins of the town and port
of Temenium were probably on that spot. The mills are about two
hours 30 minutes distant from Nauplia.
ARGOS TO LERNA AND MYLAE. 83
ARGOS TO LERNA AND MYLAF.
Consulting the general view from the acropolis of Argos, it will be
seen that the road to the mills or Mylae crosses the river Erasinus at
some distance from its source, which lies on the right, and passes close
to the borders of the Lernaean marsh on the left. In the winter this
route is perhaps impracticable. Pausanias says, “the sea at Lerna
is 40 stadia distant from Argos.” Descending to Lerna, in the way is
the Erasinus. This flows into the Phrixus, and the Phrixus into the
sea, between Temenium and Lerna. To the left of the Erasinus,
about eight stadia distant, is the temple of the Dioscuri. Turning
again into the direct road, cross the Erasinus, and come to the river
Cheimarros, near which is an inclosure of stones. Here it is said that
Pluto descended with Proserpine. Lerna, as I have said before, is at
the sea in the place where the mysteries of Ceres called Lernaea are
celebrated. There is a sacred grove which commences at the mount
Pontinos. This mount does not throw off the rain water from its sides,
but absorbs it. A river flows from it called also Pontinos. On the
summit are the vestiges of the temple of Minerva Saitis.
The foundations of the house of Hippomedon are also visible.
From this mountain a shady grove of platani, runs to the sea be-
tween the river Pontinos, and the waters of Amymone. There is
a temple of Bacchus Saotes. At the fount of Amymone grows a
platanus, under which the Hydra lurked. I saw also the fount of
M 2
84 ARGOS TO TIRYNS.
Amphiaraus and the Alcyonian pool, which is bottomless and perpe-
tually calm. Nero attempted in vain to fathom it, with a rope of the
length of many stadia. It is not more than three stadia in circuit.
The shore is covered with reeds. Pausanias Argolica.
This description is a sufficient guide to the traveller. The fount of
Amymone points out the mount Pontinus near the mills. The tower
on the mount is upon the ruins of the temple of Minerva Saitis. The
Alcyonian pool being now inclosed by a dam turns the mill. The
pool is now covered with weeds, which may have occasioned the idea
of danger which the ancients attached to swimming in it. The fount
of Amphiaraus is probably that near a little chapel on the south of
the pool. About a mile from the mills, upon an elevation in the
marsh, see some trees and a ruined chapel, perhaps the site of the
temple of Ceres.
ARGOS TO TIRYNS.
On the right of the road from Argos toward the country of the
Epidaurians is an edifice of pyramidal form, on which are shields of
the same form as those of the Argives. It is the common sepulchre
of those who fell in the battle between Praetus and Acrisius. Pro-
ceeding onwards, the ruins of Tiryns are seen on the right. Returning
from Tiryns, to the great road, you come to Mideia, which is on the
left. Mideia is now so far ruined, that only the site remains. In the
direct road to Epidaurus is the town of Lessa. Pausanias, Book 2,
LERNA TO HERMAE AND MOUNT PARNON. 85
Chap. 25. For Tiryns see the route from Mycenae to Nauplia. The
modern route is best seen from the top of the citadel of Argos, con-
sulting the plate, by which it will be seen that the bed of the Inachus
is passed in the way.
LERNA TO HERMAE AND MOUNT PARNON.
This is the direct road to Sparta. Pausanias says, “there is
another road by the Sea from Lerna, beside that which goes to Nau-
plia, which leads to a village called Genesium, where is a temple of
Neptune Genesios.” Near this is another village named Apobathmos,
where Danaus landed. Proceeding, thence, after passing Amigrea,
which is a narrow and difficult road, a tract extends on the left by the
sea, abounding in olives and other trees. Ascending from the shore
to the interior of the country, the town of Thyrea is seen, which was
a border town of the Argives and Lacedaemonians. Here are the
tumuli of the Argives and Spartans who fell fighting for the posses-
sion of the country. From the tumuli called Polyandria, you come
to a place called Athena, and another village called Neris, with a
third called Eua, the largest of these villages. In it is the temple of
Rolemocrates.
Above this village is a mountain which is the boundary of the La-
cedaemonians, Argives, and Tegeans. On the confines are Termes of
stone, whence the place is called Hermae. Hence the river Tanus
86 ARGOS TO LYRCEIA AND ORNEAE.
runs from Mount Parnon through the Argive territory into the
Thyreatic Gulph. Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 38. This country is very
little known at present, there being few objects of curiosity. Gene-
sium and the landing place of Danaus were probably both situated
in the valley to the south of the mills.
ARGOS TO LYRCEIA AND ORNEAE.
From the gate of Argos called Diras is a way to Lyrceia, the town
to which Lynceus fled when saved by Hypermnestra, and where he
lighted a torch in token of his safety, which was seen and answered by
his wife from the citadel of Larissa.
The town was once called Lyncea. Lyrceia is about 60 stadia
from Argos, and as many from Orneae. Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 25.
The way to discover the site of Lyrceia is probably that now
leading to the village of Skoino-chorio, about two hours distant from
Argos, and near the banks of the Inachus.
Orneae is in all probability to be found, by pursuing the same di-
rection about two hours beyond Skoino-chorio; the ruins of the tem-
ple of Diana, and that common to all the gods, would probably point
out the place if it were visited. Beyond Orneae are the confines of
the Phliasians and Sicyonians. Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 25.
ARGOS TO MANTINEA. 87.
ARGOS TO MANTINEA.
The road from Argos to Mantinea is not the same as that which
leads to Tegea, but commences at the gate of Argos called Deiras.
In this road is a temple with a double entrance, one toward the east,
and the other toward the west. Proceeding thence, when you have
crossed the torrent called Charadrus, you come to the town called
OEnoe.
Above OEnoe is Mount Artemisium, on the summit of which is the
temple of Diana. In this mountain are certainly the sources of the
river Inachus. Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 25.
The route over the mountain anciently known by the name of
Artemisium, and which lying to the west of Argos, separates Argolis
from Arcadia, having little in itself interesting, and being from the
badness of the road not the accustomed track, has not frequently been
traversed by the strangers who have visited the country. The dis-
tance from Mantinea to Argos seems to be much less than that from
Argos to Tripolizza. Quitting the plain of Mantinea, about fifteen
minutes from the ruins at Palaiopolis, the road ascends a branch of
Mount Artemisium, from which is a fine view looking backward to
the west of Mount Maenala. The road proceeds across a small plain,
in which are the traces of an ancient paved road. On the east side of
88 ARGOS TO NAUPLIA.
this little plain is a village called Tsipiana or Tepyana. From this
village proceed over the great chain of Mount Artemisius, ascending
to a great height by a very steep path, and reaching a cold region
where gooseberries may be observed growing wild. Hence there is a
very difficult descent from the mountain, with a fine view of the
gulph of Argos. Toward the foot of the mountain cross a small
river, and enter the plain of Argos. Artemisium is now called Mallevo.
This route does not require more than three hours. The river is
probably the torrent Charadrus, which flows in a deep bed near the
town of Argos, and joins the Inachus in the plain. The ruins of the
town or castle of OEnoe might probably be discovered in this route.
ARGOS TO NAUT'LIA.
“Nauplia is 50 stadia from Temenium, and Temenium is 26 stadia
from Argos.” Strabo.
This route lies on the shore, running first in a direct line from
Argos to Temenium, which was probably situated on one of those
little indentations of the coast to which roads even yet remain from
that city. They may be observed in the general view from the
acropolis Larissa. This was not a nearer route than that by Tiryns,
it being on account of the curved form of the shore, nearly seven
English miles and an half from Argos to Nauplia.
NAUPLIA. 89
NAUPLIA.
Nauplia, which still retains its ancient name among the Greeks,
and is only corrupted into Anapli and Napoli di Romania by the
Turks and Italians, is a large, and in point of building, one of the
most respectable cities of the Morea, of which, in modern times, it was
accounted the capital. The Pachas formerly resided here, but the
Greeks are said to have bribed them for the greater convenience of
the public to remain at Tripolizza, which is in the centre of the Pe-
loponnesus.
While the town was in possession of the Spaniards or Venetians, it
was their greatest depot of arms, and was defended by a regular ditch
and fortifications toward the land, which yet exist, though in a
neglected state, as does the arsenal, in which the arms and cannon
are said to have become entirely unserviceable.
The houses are generally better than in other towns of Greece.
There are Consuls or Vice-consuls of several nations, but the English,
who are not represented by a British subject, are by no means
popular.
An Armenian, named Petro Agobi, is at present the best person to
assist a traveller.
90 NATUPLIA.
There are two baths in the town, the use of which will be found very
refreshing after a journey. It is better for a stranger to visit these
places when they are not crowded by the inhabitants. The first
apartment has a fire in the centre, and round the walls are several
sofas, or rather beds, which have clean sheets and blankets. Here,
when the bather is stripped, a cotton cloth is wrapped round him, and
he is conducted in wooden pattens through several vaulted rooms,
each hotter than the last, to a chamber, where he is placed upon a
wooden platform about the size of a door, and raised four inches
from the pavement. Here a profuse perspiration is rubbed off by one
of the attendants, who likewise performs the ceremony of cham-
pooing for those who wish it. After this, a bason full of lather is
brought, and the bather is rubbed with a soft brush made of an
oriental plant. He is then left alone with a bowl, with which he
pours upon himself warm or cold water, both which flow near him
into a marble basin. On clapping the hands, the attendant brings a
fresh dress of cotton cloth, which is wrapped round the waist, and
another in the form of a turban is placed on the head. He is then
reconducted to the first apartment, where he is placed between the
sheets, and drinks a cup of coffee while he is drying. It is
said to be perfectly safe to leave any sum of money in the
pockets while bathing, and that no instance of theft ever occurred
at a bath.
Those only who have tried can judge of the wonderfully cleansing
and refreshing effect of this custom.
NAUT'LIA. 91
The vulgar idea of catching cold after it is erroneous. The town
is very well supplied with water. At Nauplia are two or three
mosques. Few Greeks live in the town. The port, which is excel-
lent, is said to be gradually decreasing in depth, and as no method of
clearing out the sand has been taken, boats only can at present lie
close to the shore.
The place is capable of making a very vigorous resistance, if the
batteries were in a proper state. On a little rock at a very short dis-
tance from the shore is a small castle, which in some degree defends
the entrance of the port. It is very difficult to form any idea of the
number of souls in a town where almost the whole population is
Turkish. The people are more barbarous here than in the other towns
of Greece.
Behind the town, on the same peninsula, are the vestiges of the an-
cient city of Nauplia, the walls of which are in some places distin-
guishable from the modern fortifications.
* * . . ſ. . . . . . . . . • : . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Temenium is 26 stadia from Argos. Strabo.
Nauplia, says Pausanias, is 50 stadia from Temenium ; the town is
now deserted.
It was built by Nauplias, the son of Neptune and Amymone. The
remains of the walls exist, also the temple of Neptune, the port, and
the fount Canathus. . .
N 3
*
92 PALAMElDT.
The Argives relate that Juno bathed in this fountain every year.
The fountain is at presentin a very neglected state, and may be found
near the sea between the custom-house and the point. “ Nauplia
was” in later times, “ considered as the port of Argos.” Strabo.
Near Nauplia are caverns, and in them labyrinths are con-
structed, termed Cyclopian. Strabo.
One of these may be that now existing in the garden of a Turk,
not far from the gates of the city, behind a beautiful Kiosk, and now
serving for the tomb of a Santon.
The fortress of Nauplia, now known by the name of Palamedi, is
situated on the summit of a tremendous precipice, as inaccessible on
the north-west, as the rock of Gibraltar, but united to a chain of
heights on the south-east, which would much facilitate the reduction
of the castle itself. : 3.
A stranger would have great difficulty in gaining admission to the
fortress; but the Janissaries affirm, that it does not "contain any
traces of antiquity, so that except a magnificent view of the bay,
littlé is lost by the prohibition. i. . . .
A mosque and the ruinous habitations of the garrison are the ob-
jects most distinguishable from below. The ascent from the town is
by a way which is partly covered, and apparently bomb proof, and
partly by steps carried on the top of walls which follow the projec-
tions of the precipice.
NAUPLIA TO PORT TOLONE. 93
It is said that the magazines constructed in the rock, are so won-
derfully dry that biscuit has been preserved in them for an incredible
number of years. The name of Palamedi may have been taken from
that of the hero Palamedes, who came from Nauplia, Strabo; but it
seems probable that if there was in ancient times a fortress in this si-
tuation, it was named Lycymnia, as Strabo assigns to that place a
distance of 12 stadia from Nauplia, which agrees very well with the
present castle, supposing the road to have ascended the mountain by
such a route as would have made it practicable for horses.
NAUIPLIA TO PORT TOLONE.
Leaving the gate of Nauplia, quit the sea in six minutes. The
rock of Palamedi on the right. The road to Tiryns and Argos, turns
off by the shore. Follow the road to Epidaurus for some time, but
turn off to the right toward the village of Jafferi. In 26 minutes see
a village with a fount and a little church left. A large orange garden
on Peribolia on the right, about a mile distant olive trees. In 35 mi-
nutes a village right upon a hill, a little rocky knoll left. A wall
left, and a chapel right. In 40 minutes a house, and trees left. At
52 minutes another church right. In one hour the village of Jafferi;
and a Pyrgo. A house and trees. right, and a village one mile
distant. On the right also is a very, curious comical rock, under
which is a village, and there is another behind it. A tower one mile
distant left. The plain is two miles wide. Pass a village and ascend
a steep hill by the SCà. w
94. |NAUPLIA TO PORT TOLONE.
On this hill are the ruins of the walls of an ancient castle or town,
not well built, and on the top are traces of the citadel. These ruins
have nothing in themselves worthy the attention of a traveller.
D'Anville places a city called Prosymna in this spot, but that is
evidently an error, for Prosymna was the mountain above the
Heraeum, 15 stadia from Mycenae. See Strabo speaking of Mycenae,
and the passage which misled D'Anville in that author's account of
the neighbourhood of Nauplia. D'Anville has not placed Eione in
his map, but Strabo says it was a sea-port possessed by the Myce-
naeans. The geographer of Anacharsis places Eione near Troezen,
probably because it is mentioned by Homer in the same line with that
city and Epidaurus. Tolone, however, would have been a very conve-
nient port for Mycenae, and any place more distant than Troezen must
have been useless to the Mycenaeans.
Near this, on a rock jutting into the sea, is a ruined monastery.
The view from the ruined citadel is very extensive. On the left be-
low, lies a plain, in which is a large garden with trees. The shore is
sandy, and stretches toward a port now called Drepano, which seems
formed by a long projecting rock of a curved figure, from which the
name is probably derived. D'Anville places a town called Phlius at
the eastern entrance of this port. The entrance of the port of Vivares,
supposed to be Asine, is also seen from this spot.
Beyond Vivares is seen a deep bay with a sandy shore, the territory
of the ancient town of Asine. Beyond this, the promontory of
TOLONE TO NAUIPLIA. 95
Krenidi stretches far out into the sea, terminating in a point called
Korakia.
There is a place called Cheladia near it. Under Korakia is the
island Platia. This part of the coast is little known, there is no ob-
ject of enquiry in this part of Argolis except the town of Asine.
The next islet is called Upsili, and beyond is seen Specie, bearing
S. 24. 20 E. which has a tolerable trading town and several merchant
vessels. The islands of the Argolic Gulph are named Pityusa, Irine,
and Ephyre, by Pliny, Book 4. The first was probably so named
from the number of pines which it produced. Some give to the
nearest rock the name of Haliusa, and others Coronisi; those near the
coast are only insignificant rocks. These objects are on the left of
the prospect. On the right, lies the pretty orange garden of Tolone at
the head of a bay, where the inhabitants of Nauplia come by water
to dance and feast on holydays.
Port Tolone is formed by the main land, and the islet called
Macronesi, on one top of which are the vestiges of a castle, and on
another a monastery. In the island is a little bay, and good water.
The distant point of Malvasia, in the ancient Lacedaemonia, bears
from this spot S. 2. W.
TOLONE TO NAUPLIA.
Returning to Nauplia by another route, descend from the ruins of
the ancient city to the garden of Tolone, thence ascend by a steep
96 NAUPLIA TO LESSA.
path to a hollow in the hills, where at 30 minutes find a little garden
with fig trees and fine water, on a cliff overlooking the sea. There is
a tower here which has been deserted, and the place is named the
Devil's Garden, from an idea that the devil throws stones at the pos-
sessor. The fact is, that the place is so situated that the goats some-
times throw down the loose stones into the garden. Hence ascend
by a rough track over a steep rock, whence see Nauplia, Argos, and
Mount Zyrie or Cyllene in a line N. 27.80. W.
There is a place called Karatone below. Pass on the left a garden t
and tower deserted; also pass a chapel on the left. Soon after see the
conic rock right, mentioned near Jafferi in this route. In one hour 30
minutes from the ruined city reach Laliote, a house and trees. A
road turns off right to the plain. At two hours, keeping in the
mountains, reach a large house with trees, and two chapels and a fine
orange garden. At two hours six minutes reach Naria, a village seen
on the right at the beginning of this route. Reach Nauplia in two
hours 30 minutes. The distance is very small, but the road where
there is any, is dangerously rocky and steep.
NAUPLIA TO LESSA. LYKURIO.
Quitting the gate of Nauplia"in the way to Lykurio or Ligourio,
the rock of Palamedi rises immediately on the right, and the bay with
some pretty gardens on its shore, planned by Hassan Pacha, lies on
the left.
NAUPLIA TO LESSA. LYKURIO. 97
The bay terminates in about six minutes. In 20 minutes, see a
chapel on the left. On the right, over a little insulated rock, a great
orange garden.
On the top of a hill left, see a chapel. At 30 minutes the garden
or Peribolia right, another insulated rock left. A house is visible at
the foot of the pointed hill near Tiryns. On the top of that hill is a
chapel. At 35 is a place called Nairea right, and beyond it is the
village of Mirza. On the left are houses and olives, and a curious
rock like a castle. In 55 minutes ascend a little from the plain, see
right a curious insulated conical rock near the village of Jafferi.
The olive grove ends. In one hour six minutes, enter a village
Katchingri, with a pyrgo or tower right. The road crosses the deep
bed of a torrent. On the right is a small mount. Left is the village
of Chinoparti and a hill.
There is a village called Barberi, and a Palaio Kastro or ruined ci-
tadel right. In one hour 30 minutes, the Kastro is right, distant
about the fourth of a mile, across the deep bed of a torrent. It is
seated on a bold rock, and the walls are of a very ancient masonry.
A small gate remains, but the fortification is inconsiderable in point
of extent. It is now called Agios Adrianos. There seems to have
been an outer and an interior wall of defence, and in the rock is a
large cistern. Both D'Anville and the geographer of the voyage
of Anacharsis place Midea in this situation, but the present
O
98 NAURLIA TO LESSA. LYRURIO.
Rastro could never have been to the left of the high road to Lessa
from Argolis. y
Behind the Palais Castro a monastery is seen. At one hour 38 mi-
nutes there are many tiles and stones in the road. Tiles often indi-
cate the site of ancient cities in Greece. On the right is a castle like
rock, and on the left is another singularly shaped, about three-fourths
of a mile distant. At one hour 50 minutes, is a fount right and an
ascent. Here near a chapel and fig-tree, are some vestiges of
buildings. On the left is the bed of a torrent. The rocks are
composed of pudding stone or breccia. At two hours, a brook
with running water left. A church near Nauplia bears from
this spot S. 79. W. and the mills at the Alcyonian lake are seen
beyond. The chapel near Tiryns bears W. 2. N. Ascend. At
two hours 24 minutes, across a woody dell, see the monastery of
Agios Demetrios left. There is another road to Lykurio, which
passes under the walls of this monastery, and does not fall into
the road described in this route, till it has passed an ancient castle
which is noticed in the way. At two hours 42 minutes reach
the top of the hill, whence the citadel of Argos bears N. 64, W, the
mills S. 88. W.
The road is strewed with broken tiles. Hence a gentle descent to
a valley, filled with low wood, about one mile in breadth. At three
hours heaps of stones. At three hours two minutes, a brook runs
to the right.
NAUPLIA TO LESSA: LYKURIO. 99
Here is a tower of ancient Greek work on the right. The masonry
is irregular, but the angles have a moulding which seems to have been
the style of the era of Epaminondas. r
South of this town, about a mile right, on an insulated hill is a
ruined palaio kastro, commanding the mouth of a glen through which
the brook runs to the sea. It appears of ancient date, from the road,
at three hours 20 minutes. At three hours 40 minutes, another brook
from the left. On the left of this valley see the stony and bare moun-
tain called in very ancient times Sapyselaton, and afterwards Mount
Arachne. Ascend till four hours two minutes, when the road crosses
through a gap between two hills. On the right very near, is a Palaio
Kastro which is worthy of examination. The walls appear to have
been erected in a very advanced period of the arts, and they are almost
perfect.
The entrance is on the side most distant from the road, but it is
possible to climb up by means of the bushes on either side. The
fortress is nearly square, having on the N. E. angle, a quadrangular,
and at each of the others, a circular tower. *
There is a fourth circular tower, in the centre of the S. W. side,
which defended the gate. -
There was here as in all other Greek castles, an outer and an inner
gate, with an interval between them. The passage did not lead
directly into the heart of the fortress, but ran parallel to the curtain
O 2
100 NAUPLIA TO LESSA. LYRURIO.
for some paces, before it turned toward the interior. The base of the
hill on which this castle stands, is not far distant from the Kastro men-
tioned on the right, three hours 20 minutes distant from Nauplia.
Nauplia bears S. 87.W. from this Kastro, and Ligourio S. 83.30. E.
Quitting this fortress, descend among olives. Here are some
vestiges of the ancient road, and on the left is a cave. Many heaps
of stones and traces of walls are observable. On the left is a village,
at four hours 25 minutes, the road crosses a glen, with a brook
running right. Near the brook are the ruins of a chapel on the
right, which seems to have been a temple. Here begins an uneven
valley sloping toward the right, with fields and trees. At four hours
45 minutes, see Ligourio left, situated on an eminence at the other
extremity of the plain. Mount Arachne still continues on the left,
high, uninteresting, and naked.
At four hours 50 minutes, there appéars to have been a tower left
on an eminence.
At five hours, remark a fine precipice right in a glen running
toward the sea at Vivares, which is three hours distant from Li-
gourio.
At five hours 15 minutes, the vale is nearly two miles wide, and the
fields are covered with stones, as they often are in Greece, near the
site of ruined cities. On the right is a fount and church. At five
LYKOURIO. LESSA. 101
hours 25 minutes many heaps of stones. At five hours 30 minutes a
church right, and another called Agia Marina, not far distant left,
with a few houses and a well.
At five hours 34, a road branches off to the left. At five hours 40
minutes, a chapel apparently on the site of a temple right, a bridge
over a stream from Agia Marina. At five hours 48 minutes arrive at
Lykourio or Ligurio.
LYROURIO. LESSA,
Lykourio is a large but rather mean Greek village, occupying the
slope of a hill, once the site of an ancient city, many traces of which
remain, though even the walls are ruined to the foundation. Above
the village, on the summit of the hill is a long line of ancient foun-
dations.
There is also a ruined chapel and a tree surrounded with fragments
of architecture.
The town was not large. The principal gate was probably in a
kind of recess near a well, below which, in the plain, is a large church,
where inscriptions might probably be found. This church is in the
way to Iero. The port of Vivares, probably the ancient Asine, is
three hours distant from Lykourio. The peak of the mountain called
the Oros of Ægina bears S. 87. E. uncorrected, from Lykourio.
102 LYKURIO TO IERO.
LESSA.
Pausanias says, “ in the direct road from Argos and Tiryns to
Epidaurus, is the town of Lessa, in which is the temple of
TMinerva.
“Above Lessa, is Mount Arachne, which was so named in the reign
of Inachus, having been called Sapyselaton till that time. On this
mountain are the altars of Jupiter and Juno, where sacrifices are per-
formed in seasons of extreme drought. At Lessa the Argive territory
joins that of the Epidaurians.”
The church called Agia Marina was probably on the site of an an-
cient temple, for it contains two Ionic columns and their capitals.
Near it there is also the foundation of a building, which appears to
have been a pyramid, the masonry of which is ancient. This is not
the situation of a pyramid mentioned by Pausanias, which was in the
the road between Argos and Tiryns. The size of this was considerable,
perhaps not less than 40 feet square. º
LYKURIO TO IRRO.
From Lykurio descend a little into the plain, in a direction nearly
south. In ten minutes arrive at a village called Pere. At sixteen
IERO. 103
minutes reach a village called Koroni, possibly an ancient name
taken from the Nymph Coronis, the m other of Æsculapius.
Turn toward the left. At 26 minutes, enter a pass between little
rocky hills spotted with mastic bushes. This entrance seems to have
been anciently guarded by two towers, of which the indications are
visible, bearing S. 32 E. from Lykourio. At 31 minutes cross a wall.
At 36, enter a triangular plain, once the site of the sacred grove and
temple of Æsculapius; on the right see two heaps of ruins. At 41
minutes, many vestiges and stone foundations. Cross a brook
running from the left, which passes out of the valley through a glen
toward the south. Here are more traces of ancient buildings and a
temple and portico.
At 46 minutes from Lykourio enter the sacred precinct,
an inclosure once surrounded by a wall or peribolus now ruined.
The place is at present called, as it appears to have been anciently,
Iero.
IERO.
Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 26, says, at Lessa, the country of the Ar-
gives joins that of the Epidaurians. Before you arrive at the city
(Epidaurus) is the territory consecrated to Æsculapius. Pausanias
thus describes the place.
104 - IERO.
A
The grove of Æsculapius is surrounded by mountains. Persons
are not permitted to die, or women to be delivered within the
precinct.
The statue of Æsculapius is made of ivory and gold, and is
about half as large as that of Jupiter Olympius at Athens. It
was executed by Thrasymedes, the son of Arignotus, a Parian. It
was placed over a well that the humidity might preserve the ivory
from cracking.
Beyond the temple is a place where the suppliants of the God
sleep. Near it is a circular edifice of white marble, called Tholos,
worth seeing. In this are the paintings of Pausias. There were
pillars within the precincts; anciently there were many, but in my
time only six remained. -
On these were inscribed the mames both of the men and the women
who had been cured by the god, with an account of their diseases and
the mode of treatment. They were written in the Doric dialect. Apart
from the others is an ancient pillar, which informs us that Hippolytus
dedicated twenty horses to Æsculapius.
In the 'sacred territory of the Epidaurians is a theatre very well
worth seeing. Polyclitus, the incomparable architect, erected this
edifice and the Tholos. Within the grove is the temple of Diana,
and the statue of Epione; also a temple of Venus, that of Themis,
IIERO. 105
and a stadium, which, as is customary among the Greeks, is formed
by a bank of earth.
There is also a fountain, which both for the roof, and its other or-
naments, deserves to be seen. Antoninus, a senator of our time,
erected the bath of Æsculapius, and a temple of the gods called
Epidotae. He also dedicated a temple to Hygeia, AEsculapius, and
the Ægyptian Apollo. He repaired a portico called Cotyos, the roof
of which being only tiled, had fallen in, a distressing circumstance to
women who come there to be delivered. The building was after-
wards consecrated to the use of pregnant women and dying persons.
Above the grove are two mountains, one called Titthion, the other
Cynortium, on which is the temple of the Malean Apollo, which alone
remains of the original construction, for Antoninus erected for the
Epidaurians the other edifices surrounding that temple, as well as the
reservoir of the fountain where the rain water is collected. Pausanias,
Book 2, Chap. 27. Strabo says, that the temple of Æsculapius was
crowded with votive tablets, Book 8, Chap. 15.
The present appearance of the sacred inclosure of AEsculapius may
be learned by consulting the design, and the map of the valley. There
seems to be no habitation in the valley, so that a traveller must lodge
either at Lykurio or Coroni.
The ruins on the left of the entrance of the peribolus, may have
been the portico called Cotyos, which must have been without the
wall. The Roman ruin of brick, consisting of a square building with
P
106 IERO.
semicircular projections on three of its sides, was in all probability a
Sudatorium or warm bath.
Near this Roman ruin, and on the same side of the road, is a mag-
nificent bath or cistern, eight paces, or about 40 feet broad, and
above 100 feet long. The cement still adheres to the walls. On the
right of the road is a smaller bath, but of the same species. Both
these cisterns have the appearance of Greek workmanship with Ro-
man additions or repairs.
Hence a path to the right conducts to the curved extremity of the
stadium, where a double row of upright stones probably points out the
site of a portico.
The stadium seems to have been partly natural and partly a raised
bank, the northern side being supported by an arched passage of
large stones, probably repaired by the Romans.
There are 15 rows of seats. The area is about 18 paces, of about
five feet each in breadth. The length cannot now be determined, as
the lower extremity has entirely disappeared. From the stadium, the
wall of the peribolus runs in a straight line to a ruined chapel at an
angle of the inclosure, passing the foundation of a large edifice.
Not far from the great bath, pursuing the road, on the right observe
among the bushes the vestiges of a temple, probably that of Æscu-
lapius, for the Tholos was near it. This circular edifice, the ruins of
IERO. 107
which are yet discoverable, was at the distance of a few paces toward
the south-west of the temple. From the fragments which exist, the
size of the building may be nearly ascertained. It seems to have
been a circle of about 20 feet in diameter. On some of the blocks
are inscriptions which time and a thick incrustation of lichen have
rendered almost unintelligible, but they relate to the cures effected by
AFsculapius.
Near the Tholos may be found the remains of some most beautiful
sculpture on white marble, which seems to have decorated the cover
of a sarcophagus; it is represented at the top of the title page to this
work. s
On the left of the road is the platform of another temple shaded by
a large tree. The pavement is now about 65 feet long, by 30 wide,
and consists of 18 slabs in length and eight in breadth, each slab
being three feet seven inches by three feet ten. On the nearest point
of the hill to the east, is the foundation of another building. From
this pavement the theatre bears S. 18 E. and is easily distinguished.
Proceeding again along the road which leads from the great bath
toward Damala, on the right observe a kind of terrace which runs “”
the theatre.
In the way cross the deep bed of a torrent, on the bank of which,
opposite the theatre, are the foundations of a large edifice. The
theatre itself is the most perfect of those now existing in Greece, for
P 2
108 IERO.
the seats have suffered very little from time or violence, though the
proscenium, which would have been an invaluable relic, has entirely
vanished.
The annexed design will give an idea of this structure, as well as of
the present appearance of the place. The diameter of the orchestra
is 89 feet. There are at present 55 steps or seats separated from
each other by more than twenty narrow passages, which run in right
lines from the highest to the lowest seat. The steps are also divided
into two flights by a narrow platform, about half way from the top.
The whole is placed in a cavity hollowed for the purpose in the side
of the hill, as may be seen in the view. Each step is a block of stone
one foot three inches high. The seat is a flat surface, one foot two
inches wide, behind which a part of the block, one foot seven in
breadth, is sunk to the depth of about two inches for the reception
of the feet of the spectators on the higher tier. It is not im possible
that some of the ornaments of the proscenium might be discovered by
excavation at this place, as there is a sufficient quantity of earth to
have buried any blocks which might remain.
From the top of the theatre may be observed a species of circular
reservoir, bearing nearly west, which has somewhat the appearance of
a Naumachia.
The sacred inclosure is not large, for it requires only four minutes to
walk from the theatre to the northern wall of the peribolus, crossing
in the way the road from Lycurio to Damala and Poros, on the side
IERO. 109
of which the stone channels are visible which conveyed the water
from the mountain to the baths.
The mountain Titthion or Tittheion might have derived its name
either from its shape, terminating in two summits like a breast, or be-
cause it was the spot where AEsculapius was reared. The hill between
Lykurio and Iero rises into two tops, as may be seen in the general
view of the valley. The mountain however between Iero and Epi-
daurus, is the most remarkable feature of the place, being very
abrupt and pointed. The temple of the Malean Apollo on Mount
Cynortium might possibly be discovered, and some French gentlemen
of Athens were supposed to have seen it. From their account it
seems to have been in the road from Iero toward Damala, over the
mountain. The mountain on which grew the crooked olive which
was twisted by Hercules, Pausanias, Corinthiaca, Chap. 28, must
have been that on the south of Iero, as it was the boundary of the
Asinaeans.
On the top of that mountain is the temple of Diana Coryphaea.
Pausanias. The yellow snakes which were sacred to AEsculapius, and
which are perfectly harmless, are yet found in the country. They
were seldom seen even when they were held in reverence; but an
English traveller, who will probably give to the public an account of
his tour in Epidauria, was so fortunate as to see one, and to examine
its peculiarities.
110 IERO TO EPIDAURUS.
IERO TO EPIDAURUS.
On quitting the sacred precinct of AEsculapius, observe on the
right a tree, under which is a well or fountain, to the water of which is
yet attributed a healing quality. At one minute cross a brook from
the right; on the base of the nearest mountain observe foundations.
In a glen on the right are other vestiges. Cross the courses of two
other rivulets running toward the Argolic Gulph, before five minutes.
The valley which is here narrow and prettily spotted with shrubs,
seems to have been guarded by a stone wall, distant eight minutes
from the peribolus. From these foundations the road descends in a
wild dell, with a stream which runs to the sea at Epidaurus. At 11
minutes another ruined wall. See Mount Arachne on the left. Cross
a perennial brook from the right. The road descends in a very pic-
turesque and romantic glen, overhung with rocks and shaded with
pines, running in a direction about N. W.
At 24 minutes a path falls in from Lykourio through an opening in
the hills to the left. Here the road turns northward, and is entirely
darkened by trees, and the luxuriant foliage of a thick grove of
arbutus. At 27 minutes see a stone foundation, probably that of a
tower to defend the pass. Observe several plants of the Arbutus An-
drachne, called by the Greeks Chrysokomerios, from the golden co-
lour of its branches, which is not so common as that before-men-
IERO TO EPIDAURUS. 111
tioned. A brook accompanies the road. At 43 minutes cultivation
and olives. The wild olives, which often cover the sides of moun-
tains in Greece, bear a small berry, the oil of which is too bitter to
be used for any other purpose than for lamps; it is usually em-
ployed in the lamps of churches, and bears the name of holy oil.
Pausanias says, that “ descending from the grove of Æsculapius
to the city of the Epidaurians, you see a region covered with wild
olives, called Hyrnetho.”
At 53 minutes the dell opens. At one hour see HEgina and the
promontory of Methana. Another road from Lykurio falls in from
the left. At one hour six minutes, cross a stream from the left. The
road is here bordered with myrtles, and the scenery very beautiful.
At one hour 16 minutes the vale is less confined; on the right is some
cultivation. At 22, pretty fields with olives and a village on the left,
under Mount Arachne. Cross a brook from the left. At one hour
44 minutes see a tumulus on the left. There was a place called
Hyrnetho in this situation, with an heroic monument to her memory.
Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 28. Cross another brook from the left, after
which observe ruins of Roman workmanship on the left. Hence the
track runs in a direction nearly east. At one hour 46, another stream,
At one hour 51, cross the rivulet which accompanies the road twice.
At two hours, a cave on the left. Ascend a little hill about 1000
yards from the sea, and at two hours 14 minutes arrive at the little
village of Epidaurus, now pronounced Pidavro by the natives. Not
112 EPIDAURUS.
far from the city was the monument of Melissa. Pausanias, Book 2,
Chap. 28.
IEPIDAURUS.
The chief ornaments of the city of the Epidaurians, says Pausa-
nias, are the precinct of Æsculapius, with statues of the God and of
Epione, in the open air, of Parian marble. Within the walls are the
temples of Bacchus, and the grove of Diana. Also a temple of
Venus. They call that which is situated upon an eminence, on the
promontory at the part, the temple of Juno. In the citadel is a cu-
rious statue of Pallas. Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 29.
The Athenians, who often besieged Epidaurus, on one occasion
constructed a fort on the promontory where the temple of Juno was
situated. They also formed a circumvallation, that no supplies might
reach the city. Xenophon.
The temple of Juno seems to have been situated on a pretty rocky
promontory, which in the design of Epidaurus is seen above a palm
tree. The road to the village now called Piada, passes over the most
distant cape on the left. The modern village does not consist of
more than thirty habitations, divided into two clusters. The people
cultivate the vines with which the plain is now coveréd, as it was in
the time of Homer. Iliad, Book 2. AMIIEAoENT EIIIAAYPON.
EPIDAURUS. 113
Strabo says, that Epidaurus, which was anciently called Epicarus,
from the colony of Carians, who settled there, is situated in a recess
of the Saronic Gulph, and is fifteen stadia in circumference. It is
open on the east. It is surrounded with high mountains, which rise
from the coast, so that it is well defended by the nature of the
situation. Strabo, Book 8, Chap. 15.
Epidaurus does not seem to have been a place of great conse-
quence. The hill on which the city stood is seen in the centre of the
design, and being a peninsula, united by very low land to the conti-
nent, was probably in ancient times defended by a ditch, which ran
from sea to sea. The commentators on Strabo, have been much per-
plexed with an expression which implies that the city was surrounded
by water. It is probable, however, that Strabo had no more than a
general idea of the place, which is almost an island by nature.
The walls are yet visible on many parts of the peninsula, founded
on the verge of the precipice. In the most flourishing times, this
constituted the citadel only of Epidaurus. The site is peculiarly
beautiful, but the air is thought unwholesome in the autumn. Fowls
may be purchased here, and the cottagers willingly give up their
houses to strangers for a small reward. There are usually boats at
anchor, or upon the beach, in which it is easy to pass to Ægina or
Athens. -
This country is but little visited, and is less inhabited than the
other parts of Argolis, though the whole peninsula has been almost
Q
114 EPIDAURUS TO TROEZEN. DAMALA
depopulated in modern times by the incursions of the Mainiote
pirates. The island of Angistri, beyond which is Ægina, and in the
distance the hills of Attica are seen on the left of Epidaurus. On the
right, the promontory of Methana. The vulgar pronunciation of the
name is Pidavro, it being usual both to omit the first letter of a word
and to pronounce both U and B like V.
EPIDAURUS TO TROEZEN. DAMALA.
The territory of Troezen is contiguous to Epidaurus. Pausanias,
Book 2, Chap. 30. This being a most fatiguing journey of nearly
nine hours, might be divided by sleeping at Potamia, which is about
six hours distant. -
Quitting the last houses of the village of Epidaurus, at the end of
a little descent, observe on the right a pavement. In eight minutes
pass in the plain the torrent which accompanies the road from Iero.
At 12 minutes, begin to ascend a very steep and fatiguing road,
bordered with myrtle, arbutus, and various kinds of juniper.
At one hour 20 minutes, reach the top of the pass, which is now
called Trachea or Trachis, probably from its abruptness. At one
hour 38 minutes, reach a small village called Koliates in a fough
valley, with a few patches of cultivation. Mount Trachea still con-
tinuing on the left. At one hour 50, an ugly uneven Valley. At a
village called Hadgimeto or Aginito, situated on the right, across the
EPIDAURUS TO TROEZEN. DAMALA. 115
bed of a torrent is a well. A road falls in here from the right, from
Argos, Lykourio, and Iero, at two hours 15 minutes.
Aginito is said to be three hours distant from Lykourio. At two
hours 18, pass a village called Trachea on the left. Here seem to be
the vestiges of an ancient town, such as the foundations of walls, an
architrave, and at two hours 22, the indications of a small temple.
At the village is a well. After a brook running from the mountain on
the left observe more walls.
Crossing another brook, see a tumulus with ruins on the left. The
country very bushy and green. On the right is a valley, through
which runs a road to a village called Athame or Adami. At two
hours 35 minutes the road to Krenidi branches off to the right. Pass
a tumulus on the right, and at two hours 49, see on an eminence
some vestiges of building. At two hours 55, see foundations and
large blocks left. In a hollow, cross a little brook running from Be-
degni, a village upon the hill left. After passing over two little emi-
nences, cross a brook, whence ascending observe a tumulus on the
right. At another brook, observe on the right the mountains of
Zacunia or Laconia at a great distance.
At three hours 15 minutes, descend from one of the highest emi-
mences of this uneven valley. On the right a very pretty pastoral
valley.
Q 2
116 EPIDAURUS TO TROEZEN. DAMALA.
At three hours 21 minutes ascend, after crossing a brook. Cross
another at 33. At 40, observe the traces of building on the banks of
a brook. Turn to the left, a little east of north, to the village of Ka-
ratcha, at three hours 41 minutes. -
The village of Karatcha, consists of a few huts on a rock between
two rivulets. This place is sometimes without inhabitants. A very
steep track up a rough mountain is a way to the sea, which is not
far distant. It runs nearly east. i
* The traveller should ask, if any inhabitants can be found, the way
to Damala or Potamia, for there is absolutely no path at a little dis-
tance from the village, by which he can be guided in this part of the
route. At three hours 55 minutes, ascending a steep mountain, see
on the left a curious mount, and cistern with an arched passage
under it, in which is a species of table composed of three large
stones. At four hours two minutes cross a pretty brook. At four
hours 12 minutes a fountain. At four hours 55 minutes, after a
tiresome ascent among thorns, which are very troublesome, reach
the top. Looking back see the gulph of Argos near Nauplia.
From this summit is a steep descent. At five hours five minutes,
a stream runs toward the gulph of Athens, and is joined by a second
at five hours 15 minutes, at the base of a very singular conic hill
called Korasa. This seems to have been a castle intended to guard
the pass, but the ruins now visible, appear of modern date. The
.
EPIDAURUS TO TROEZEN. DAMALA. *117
(confines of Troezen and Epidauria might have been here. Cross a
“brook with a fount left. Soon after cross another. At five hours 25,
‘see the beautiful village of Potamia, and on the left the port of Me-
‘thana, descend among pretty shrubs. At five hours 45, cross a stream
from a fountain on the left. At five hours 55 minutes, reach a most
'beautifully clear rapid river, in a romantic glen, with a mill under the
village of Potamia, where several streams unite. Nothing can
‘exceed the beauty of this spot. Hence a steep ascent to Potamia, so
called from its delightful river. Reach the village at six hours ten
minutes. Potamia is a large place for this country, and the houses
have an air of neatness not usually seen, besides having in general
'little gardens, which add to the beauty of the place.
On entering the village, cross abrook, and another on quitting it.
Ascend to a point of the mountain āt six hours 35 minutes, when
the road turns to the right, see the isles of Calauria, Poros, and St.
‘Giorgio. Several other islands are seen on the left. Descend; at six
hours 50, cross a brook. At six hours 55 minutes a mount of stones
or a tumulus right. ‘Cross another brook from the right. The penin-
sula of Methana lies on the left. At seven hours six minutes cross a
hrook. At seven hours 10, three other brooks. At seven hours 20,
descend among trees by a brook, afterwards descend a rocky lill, till
at seven hours 35 minutes cross a rapid river running to the port of
Methana. Observe some foundations and large blocks before eight
hours. At eight hours two minutes see a village about half a mile
118 TROEZEN.
distant on the right upon the hill, and another distant one mile and a
half left, called Palaiourea, situated near the isthmus of Methana.
Cross another brook. At eight hours 13, find a well constructed road
raised upon the foundations of the wall of the city of Troezen, after
which cross a brook. At eight hours eighteen minutes, on a knoll right
is a church of the Panagia Episkopi. Hence pass another brook,
also a river with two mills, an ancient tower, a beautiful orange gar-
den, and at eight hours 40 minutes arrive at Damala. There is no
difficulty in procuring a lodging in the village,
TROEZEN.
In the Agora of the Troezenians is a temple and statue of Diana
the Saviour, in which are the altars of the infernal divinities. Behind
the temple is the monument of Pittheus, upon which are three judg-
ment seats of white marble. The temple of the Muses is not far
distant. Further on is an ancient altar dedicated to Museus.
Hippolytus erected the temple of Diana Lyceia, which is near the
theatre. Before the temple lies a stone called sacred, on which nine
of the citizens of Troezen purified Orestes after the slaughter of his
mother. Not far from the temple of Diana Lyceia are altars dedi-
cated to Bacchus the Saviour. It is said that Pittheus built and or-
namented the temple of Apollo Thearius, which is the most ancient
of all the temples which I have seen, for that of Minerva in the country
TROEZEN. 110
of the Pliocenses in Ionia, and that of the Pythian Apollo in Säfnos,
though very ancient, of a far more recent date than this of the
Troezenians.
In the portico of the Agora are the marble statues of several
women and children, who fled from Athens to Troezen on the inva-
sion of Attica by the Persians. Before the temple of Apollo is a
building called the cell of Orestes, near which is a laurel. The
Troezenians have a fountain called Hippocrene. There is a statue of
Mercury Polygius, to whom Hercules is said to have consecrated his
club, which was made of an olive cut in the Saronian Marsh, and
from which roots miraculously shot forth, so that the tree is shown at
this day. *
The temple of Jupiter the Saviour is also seen. They have a river
called Chrysoroas, which, when no rain had fallen during nine years,
was the only stream of the country which continued to flow.
There is a magnificent precinct dedicated to Hippolytus, the son of
Theseus, with a temple, and a statue of the most ancient workman-
ship. Within the peribolus is a temple of Apollo Epibaterius. Below
the peribolus is a stadium called by the name of Hippolytus, above
which is the temple of Venus the observer, whence Phaedra saw
Hippolytus. * - . .
Here is also the myrtle of which Phædrapierced the leaves with her
broach during her insanity. . . . g
120, * TROEZEN:
There is a tomb of Phaedra not far from that of Hippolytus. There
is a statue of AEsculapius, which the Troezenians call that of Hippo-
lytus.
The house of Hippolytus is also seen. Before the statue of AEscu-
lapius is a fountain called Herculeus, because the spring was
discovered by him. In the Acropoliº is the temple of Minerva
Sthenias. * *
Descending from the acropolis is the temple of Pan, Luterios.
Descending into the country of the Troezenians, you see the temple
of Isis, and above it that of the Acraean Venus. Pausanias, Book 2.
Chap. 31 and 32.
Without the walls of Troezen is the temple of Neptune Phytalmios,
above which is that of Ceres the Lawgiver. Pausanias, Book 2.
This place, now represented by the mean village of Damala, which,
consists of only 45 habitations, was anciently, of considerable extent,
the longest side of the city having been at least one mile in length.
It was probably, like most of the Greek cities, of a form approaching.
to a triangle, having a wall in the plain, from the extremities of which
other fortifications ran up the mountain to the acropolis on a Craggy.
and detached summit, now very prettily spotted with wild olives. The
ascent to it is difficult, and the labour ill repaid by the sight of a
ruined chapel, a Venetian cistern, and an Ionic capital, without any
vestige of the citadel. *. -
TROEZEN. * 121
On entering the walls from the west, the first object is the church of
the Panagia Episkopi on the right, below which seem to be indica-
tions of a stadium, one side of which was natural, and the other a
bank. From the position of this church it is very possibly placed on
the site of the temple of Venus Kataskopia mentioned by Pausa-
nias. It contains at present some remains of antiquity, a column of
grey marble, another of white, and the fragment of a larger column
of the Doric order in the wall, also two pedestals and an inscription.
In the road from this church to Damala, at the distance of about
four minutes, observe on the left three columns, bearing a strong re-
semblance both in form and colour to columns of black basalt. Many
of these are found among the ruins of Troezen. They have been
well cut, into eight flat faces, diminishing upwards, so that being
seven feet one inch in circumference, they measure only six feet nine
at three feet from the base. The faces were at the base about 11
inches, and at the top of the stone only nine inches and a half.
The holes into which brazen or wooden cubes were inserted for
the purpose of uniting the different blocks, are seven inches and a t
half square. They were probably like those of the Propylaea at
Athens, composed of cedar or juniper. It is not impossible that
these columns, which are so much more simple than any others in
Greece, may have been those of the very ancient temple of Apollo
Thearius mentioned by Pausanias. On the western side of the rock,
which seems to have been a citadel, a brook runs in a deep ravine. It
is in all probability the brook Chrysoroas. It now turns two mills.
} IR,
192 TROEZEN TO HERMIONE.
Near this stream is an ancient tower of good masonry, now sur-
mounted by a modern ruin. Observe near it a very fine specimen of
the Carob tree. The brook is about 13 minutes distant from the vil-
lage of Damala. In the way pass a beautiful orange garden on the
left. The houses of Damala have flat roofs, like those in the islands
of the Archipelago, and some of them are not uncomfortable
dwellings. The air is reputed unwholesome, and the Bishop does
not reside there. There is an extensive view from the citadel over the
plain, the Limne, or salt lake, near the gulph of Methana, the promon-
tory or peninsula of Methana, the port of Troezen called Pogon, and
the islands of Calaurea and Poros with its town, AEgina St. Giorgio,
and the distant mountains of Attica. At Damala, and perhaps in the
other parts of this country, a species of thistle is produced, the stalk
of which, stripped of its outer rind, is exceedingly pleasant to the
taste, and is eaten by the inhabitants in the spring. There are se-
veral inscriptions on the walls and ruined churches at Damala. The
small brass coins of Troezen, with the figure of a trident, are not
COII] [I] OI).
TROEZEN TO HERMIONE.
Tausanias says, “those who go by the mountains, toward Her-
mione from Troezen, see the fountain of the river Hylycos, which was
anciently called Taurios, and the stone named after Theseus, because
he took thence the slippers and sword of AEgeus which had been con-
cealed below it. This was before that time called the altar of Jupiter
:
DAMALA TO KASTRI. 123
Sthenios. Near this stone is the temple of the Nuptial Venus, built
by Theseus. From the stone of Theseus the road passing over the
mountains to the temple of Apollo Platanistios, arrives at the village
of the Eileoi, where are the temples of Ceres and Proserpine. On
the coast, on the confines of the Hermionenses and Troezenians is the
temple of Ceres Thermesia, distant not more than 80 stadia from the
Scyllaean promontory.” Pausanias, Corinthiaca.
1DAMALA TO KASTRI.
Leaving Damala cross a brook, and ascend by a steep and winding
path to a monastery on a high rock, where there are a few priests or
papas. Just beyond it is a fountain with a cistern cut out of a co-
lumn. The river Hylycus, of Pausanias, may be the brook which runs
between the monastery and Damala.
Ascending hence the road becomes dangerously steep and winding.
At 35 minutes reach a top. At one hour 14 minutes another top,
whence Hydra and several islands are visible both in the gulph of
AEgina and thatofArgos. At one hour 20 minutes pass an anathema or
heap of stones in the road. Aroad on the left turns off to a place called
Thermisi, on the sea coast opposite the island of Hydra. Hence the
town of Specie bears S. 52. W. Descend toward Kastri. At two
hours observe the port, or Limani of Thermisi on the left. There is
near it a castle on a rock, the ruins are of modern date. The temple
IR 2
124 DAMALA TO KASTRI.
of Ceres Thermesia, mentioned by Pausanias, was probably on the
shore of this port, which was on the confines of the Troezenians and Her-
miomenses. The port seems now shut up by a tongue of sand. Ob-
serve some mills at a distance, bearing about S. 50. W. These are
near the village of Kastri, and on the hill Prona, the site of the city of
Hermione, as it stood in the time of Pausanias. The village of Kastri
is hidden by a projecting hill. See the drawing of the islands visible
in this descent. At two hours 20 minutes a rivulet runs on the right
in a dell below the road. At two hours 45 minutes, see about
N. 15. W. a village called Soukala, in the direction of Mount Ortho-
lithi, which some of the peasants call Ipla, and near the ruined castle
of Chorasa, mentioned in the route from Epidaurus to Troezen. Pass
on the right a great detached stone among the bushes, under which
the shepherds have contrived a fold for their sheep and goats. At
two hours 55 minutes is a large perennial brook called Sororo
Potamo. The road is scarcely passable, and the traveller is much
incommoded by the bushes.
At three hours five minutes arrive in a bushy plain. On a pretty
knoll left, see a ruined house, probably a derveni or guard-house.
Another brook falls in from the right. At three hours 11 minutes,
See a chapel right, containing a few ancient Greek blocks of stone.
Cross a brook near the chapel. These brooks all flow toward the
coast at Thermisi, to which place a road runs from this spot. There
are several indications of ancient buildings in this plain, which may
be about two miles broad.
SCYLLEUM TO HERMIONE. 125
The village now called Eilio, or according to the modern Greek
idiom els to Eilio, the present representative of the village of the
Eileioi or Ilei, mentioned by Pausanias, lies about half a mile right at
three hours 18 minutes. A road runs from this village to the sea at
Thermisi. Pass more vestiges of ancient habitations. At three hours 28
minutes, observe several blocks on the left. A road runs toward Pota-
mia up a valley pointing to Mount Ortholithi. At three hours 45,
descend. On the opposite side of a dell left is a never-failing foun-
tain. At four hours two minutes the country is covered with a forest
of lignumvitae. At four hours 15, enter an uneven vale. Some cul-
tivated grounds and trees at four hours 20 minutes. On the left is a
lime-kiln, and several wine presses, which consistin nothing more than
a small square enclosure or cistern of stone, very roughly constructed
with a little aperture at one of the angles through which the liquor
runs into a vessel placed to receive it. At four hours 30 minutes,
having crossed a little plain bounded on the left by the port, reach
the village of Kastri, the modern representative of the city of Her-
mione. This part of the coast is described by Pausanias.
“Sailing from the Scyllaean promontory toward the city, another
cape is seen, named Bucephalus. Near this are some islands. Of
these, the first called Haliusa, has a port with good anchorage. The
next is called Pityusa, and the third Aristera.
“Having passed these islands, a promontory called Acra projects
from the Continent. The island of Tricana succeeds, and a
126 HERMIONE.
mountain called Buporthmos running into the sea from the Pelo-
ponnesus.
“On this mount are the temples of Ceres and Proserpine and Minerva
Promachorma. Opposite this is an island called Aperopia. Not far
off is Hydrea. These islands lie in a curve from the shore, which runs
from the east toward the west, as far as the temple of Neptune. In
this are ports. There is a cape about seven stadia in length, the
breadth of which is at most three stadia. In this was the ancient
city of the Hermionenses.” Pausanias, Corinthiaca, 34.
HERMIONE.
“The ancient city of the Hermionenses was situated upon a pro-
montory about seven stadia in length, and where largest three
stadia broad. There yet exist some temples on the spot. On
the summit of the promontory is that of Neptune. Ascending
from the sea toward the interior is the temple of Minerva, near
which are the ruins of the stadium, where the sons of Tyndarus were
exercised.
“There is another small temple of Minerva, the roof of which is fallen
in. There is a temple of the Sun and a grove of the Graces. There
is also a cell of Serapis and lsis, surrounded with a wall of large and
selected blocks of Stone.”
HERMIONE. 127
“The city now existing is not quite four stadia distant from the pro-
montory on which is the temple of Neptune, rising from the base to
the top of the hill. This hill called Prona or the summit, is sur-
rounded by a wall. Here are many things worthy of remark. First,
the temple of Venus Pontia, and Limenia, with a beautiful statue of
white marble. There is another temple of Venus, as also two temples
of Thermesian Ceres, one of which is on the confines of Troezen, be-
longing to the villages which yet remain there, and the other in the
city. Near this is the temple of Bacchus Melanaegis. There is also
a cell of Diana Iphigeneia. In that of Westa there is no statue, but
only an altar.
“There are three temples of Apollo, of which the second is called
Pythaea, and the third Horios. The Temple of Fortune, with a co-
lossal statue of Parian marble, is of a more recent date than the
other edifices of the city. Of the two aquaducts one is said to be very
ancient, and never fails, the other was constructed in our own time.”
“The water comes from a town called Pratum. On the summit
of the hill Prona is a temple of Ceres. In a district called
Cthonia is a temple of Clymenos. In the same situation is a
temple of Mars. On the right of Cthonia is a portico called Echo
which repeats the voice three times. Behind Cthonia are three en-
closures of Clymenos, Pluto, and the Acherusian lake, all which are
surrounded with walls of stone. In that of Clymenos is seen a
chasm, through which they say Hercules dragged up Cerber" At
I28 HERMIONE. ISASTRI.
the gate leading to Mases is the temple of Lucina, within the walls
of the city. Pausanias, Corinthiaca, 35 and 36.
Strabo says the inhabitants of Hermione were called Haliei or fish-
ermen, but that the city was not of obscure origin. There is a short
way from Hermione to the infernal regions.
HERMIONE. KASTRI.
Nothing can more clearly shew the impossibility of rendering a
book of routes intelligible by using the modern names only of towns,
villages, and mountains, than the frequent recurrence of the same
term. Hermione is now termed Kastri, so is Delphi, and so are
many other ruined fortifications in the country. Kastri is like Da-
mala, built in the style of the towns of the Archipelago, with flat roofs,
and the houses of that species are usually more commodious and less
liable to injury from rain, than the tiled houses of the continent of
Greece. The walls are built of stone, sometimes covered with stucco.
On these rafters are laid almost in their natural state at short in-
tervals. These are again covered with small bushes resembling
furze, on which gravel is thrown. The platform on the top has
usually an inclination scarcely perceptible, to one of the angles, from
which the rain water is discharged. The method is so simple that the
total exclusion of the water during the most violent showers seems
astonishing, yet the fact is no less true. No care is taken of these
KASTRI. HERMIONE. 129
roofs, and the people walk and hang out their linen to dry upon
them.
The town is entirely modern, and was probably re-peopled from the
islands, after the incursions of those pirates had ceased, which about a
century ago depopulated almost the whole of the Argolic penin-
sula.
The women of Kastri wear a curious veil of yellow cotton, which
being very long, serves the purposes of bonnet, veil, handkerchief, and
lappets at the same time. The population of the town seems rather
increasing. The people speak the Albanian tongue almost ex-
clusively. *
The ruins of the ancient Hermione are to be found upon a long
neck of land stretching into the sea from the modern village of
Kastri. Pausanias says the length of it is seven stadia. From the
lowest part of the village to the summit of the hill, anciently called
Prona, part of which was in the time of Pausanias covered with the
houses of the more recent city, the distance is 1166 yards passing by
the windmills. -
There was a distance of four stadia, or above 800 yards between
the isthmus and the city, as it existed in the second century, so that
the Hermione of Pausanias could not have been a place of great ex-
tent or consequence, as it occupied only the immediate vicinity of
the temple of Juno on the summit of the hill Prona.
S
130 ISASTRI. HERMIONE.
It does not seem easy to account for the removal of the inhabitants
from the promontory to the hill, unless the ancient city, which was a
better situation, had been ruined by some public calamity. This
might have been the invasion at the time when the Argives destroyed
the cities of Mycenae, Nauplia, Tiryns, Mideia, Asine, Hermione, and
as Diodorus adds, Eione. The inhabitants of the new town of Her-
mione, situated on Mount Prona, seem to have been called Haliei or
fishermen, from their occupation. The two bays are still remarkably
abundant in fish. The promontory is a projection from the hill Prona.
The air on the northern side of the hill, is now supposed to be very
pestilential in autumn.
The ruins of the most ancient city consist of the foundations of
walls, which from their appearance may be considered not of a very
early period. On the point are cisterns cut in the rock. The pave-
ment of a considerable temple, perhaps that of Neptune remains'
almost entire. Among the ancient ruins may be observed several
remains of Venetian or Genoese construction. The sea is very deep,
so that large vessels might have lain close to the walls, and the ports
or bays both on the north and south of the peninsula, seem perfectly
secure and land locked. The anchorage is excellent. From the point,
the town of Hydra in the island of that name, bears S. 62. E. The
island on the right of Hydra is by the people termed Hydron, and
some have named it the Burnt Island.
HYDRA. -- 181
HYDRA.
The island of Hydra, which lies opposite to Hermione, is remark-
able as the residence of a very numerous Greek colony, who are go-
verned by one of their own members, at present called Captain
Giorgios, or Giorgaki
This little commonwealth has purchased aspecies of independence
from the Porte, so that by paying a fixed annual tribute they are free
from the oppressive visits of the Captain Pacha and his fleet. The
consequence has been the acquisition of a fleet of 350 fast sailing
vessels of all sizes, and the population has so much increased, that
Hydra is now one of the most considerable towns of the Archipelago.
The astonishing prosperity of a barren rock without a blade of grass
or a stream of water is sufficient to shew what might be done in this
part of the world. The dominion of the Hydriotes now extends over
AEgina, Poros and the neighbouring rocks, and their opulence is such
that they have proposed to purchase the Piraeus from the Athenians.
The Hydriotes were at first jealous, and suspicious of strangers, but
their commerce extending from Odessa in the Black Sea to every part
of the Mediterranean, and even to America, they are now become
more civilized and polished than their neighbours. The Hydriotes
would have willingly placed themselves under the protection of the
English during a rupture with Turkey, and have even offered to emi-
grate to an English colony.
S 2
132 HERMIONE TO MASES AND HALICE.
HERMIONE TO MASES AND HALICE.
Pausanias says, “having proceeded seven stadia on the direct road
to Mases, the road to Halice turns off to the left. Halice is now de-
serted. The road to Halice runs between the hill called Prona and
that which was anciently called Thornax, but now Coccygius. On
the top of this mountain is the temple of Jupiter Coccygius. On
Prona is the temple of Juno. On the base of Mount Coccygium is a
temple of Apollo without doors, roof, or statue. From this spot
those who have quitted the direct road go into that which leads to
Mases. Mases was formerly a town, but is now a port of the Her-
mionenses.” Pausanias, Corinthiaca.
The particulars which the people of Kastri are able to give of this
part of the country are few, and are given here only from the report of
the inhabitants. The town of Kranidi or Krenidi, is one hour 30
minutes distant from Kastri, and consists of six hundred houses. One
hour distant from Krenidi is the village Cheladia, near the sea. Five
hours distant is a village Candia, consisting of ten houses. The point
of Krenidi, which runs out toward Specie, the ancient Tiparenus,
contains a port called Cheli. The Speciotes have a large town, and
carry on a brisk trade. There is a port named Bizati, probably near
the site of Mases in this neighbourhood. The sites of Halice and
Mases must be explored by future travellers.
MASES TO DIDYMI. 133
MASES TO DIDYMI.
From Mases the road to the right leads to the promontory of
Struthuntum, from which a road passes over the mountains to Phila-
norium and Bolei, at the distance of 250 stadia. These Bolei are
heaps of large selected stones. The village of Didymi is twenty
stadia distant from Bolei.
Here are the temples of Apollo, Neptune, and Ceres. Near this is
Asine. Pausanias, Corinthiaca 36.
At Didymo, which exists at present as a village, near a lofty moun-
tain of the same name, is a curious natural cavity in the earth, pro-
duced by the falling of some of the inferior strata, but in so regular a
manner that the spot appears to have been sunk by art, so that some
travellers have mistaken the spot for an ancient work.
At Didymo is an ancient well of a rectangular figure, with a flight
of steps, by which there was a descent to the water. The village
of Didymo is distant three hours from Kastri, in a direction
nearly north, and the mountain of that name is in the same di-
rection. The well was discovered by Mr. Hawkins.
134 DAMALA TO POROS.
ASINE.
Tausanias says, “the ruins of Asine are now seen near the sea.
The Argives ruined the city, and added the country to their own ter-
ritory. They spared however the temple of the Pythian Apollo,
which may yet be seen, and near it is the sepulchre of Lysistratus.”
Pausanias, Corinthiaca 36.
Asime might certainly be found by a diligent search, but this part
of the country, having but few inhabitants and little interesting in
itself, has not at present been well examined.
Strabo says in Book 8, that Asine is near Nauplia; but this expres-
sion is of too undefined a nature to be useful.
DAMALA TO POROS.
Poros is distant one hour and 30 minutes from Damala. The
road lies in the plain, with the port on the left, and rough hills on the
right. At 30 minutes in the road see a church dedicated to Saint
Epiphanius, or perhaps to the Holy Epiphany. From this church
runs a copious stream, which waters a large orange garden. About
halfway between Damala and Poros, is a village called Paphia.
POROS. 135
There is at the ferry a well and a single house. The ferry is about
the breadth of one furlong, so that a boat may easily be obtained
from the opposite side. On the terra firma are many orange and
lemon gardens, which supply the neighbouring country with those
fruits.
POROS.
Pausanias says, “ of those islands which are the property of the
Troezenians, one is so near the Continent, that it is almost possiblé to
walk over to it.”
“It was anciently called Sphaeria, from Sphaerus, the charioteer of
Pelops, who was there entombed. The island was afterwards termed
Hiera or Sacred, from a temple of Minerva Apaturia, erected by
AEthra.” Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 33. Sphaeria can be no other
than Poros, which is very near the Continent, and is distant one hour
SO minutes from Damala. This barren rock is now occupied by a
large and opulent trading town, under the protection of the Hy-
driotes. The island having neither verdure nor trees, has nothing to
recommend it but its situation at one of the entrances of the magni-
ficent port Pogon.
CALAUREIA.
Rausanias says, “Calaurea was exchanged by Apollo for Delphi,
so that the island is now consecrated to Neptune. Within the
136 CALAUREIA.
sacred enclosure of the temple of Neptune is the sepulchre of De-
mosthenes, who is reverenced by the inhabitants of the island.”
Pausanias, Book 2, Chap. 33.
At Poros horses or mules may be hired for the purpose of visiting
Calaurea or Calaureia, which yet preserves its ancient appellation.
There is a narrow neck of sand which connects Poros with Calaurea.
After ascending by a steep and dangerous track, find a little valley in
the mountains, in which at a place now known by the name of Pa-
latia, find the ruins of the temple of Neptune, of which many of the
blocks, part of the walls of the cella, and the pavement remain.
The acropolis of Athens bears from the temple of Neptune in Ca-
laureia N. 36 E. There is a monastery in the island, and near it a
well, the water of which has a purging quality.
Strabo, Book 8, says, “before the port of Troezen, which is called
Pogon, lies the little isle of Calaureia, which is about 30 stadia in cir-
cumference. There was the sanctuary of Neptune.”
Strabo seems as usual to have mistaken the peninsula of Poros, an-
ciently called Sphaeria and Iera, for the island of Calaureia, for Poros
might be about thirty stadia in circuit, whereas Calaureia infinitely
exceeds that measure. This mistake is that of a person who had
never been on the spot, for the port Pogon is formed by only one
island, of which the two divisions united by a narrow slip of land
are called Calaureia and Poros.
TROEZEN TO METHANA. # 137
Strabo repeats twice, that Calaureia is 30 stadia in circuit, and adds,
that it is separated from the Continent by a strait, four stadia in
breadth, a further proof that Poros is the island he alludes to.
TROEZEN TO METHANA.
Pausanias Says, “ descending to that port, which is called Celen-
deris, there is a district called Genethlion, because Theseus was born
there. Before this is a temple of Mars, in the spot where the
Amazons were conquered by Theseus.”
Proceeding to the Psiphaean sea, the olive is seen, which is called
Rachos or distorted, in which the reins of Hippolytus were entangled
when his chariot was overturned.
Not far from this is the temple of Diana Saronia. Pausanias,
Book 2, Chap. 32. This temple of Diana was erected in a low
situation, which had been in very early times called the Phoebaean,
and afterwards the Saronian Marsh. Pausanias.
It is not easy to determine which of the ports of Troezen was near or
at Celenderis, for there is a port Pogon, which is the whole of the sea
included between the island Calaureia and the continent, and there
is in this a neck of land which apparently served as a mole, and
seems to point out the station of the navy of the Troezenians.
138 TROEZEN TO METHANA.
-ºrm
On the western side of the isthmus of Methana, there is also a port
called the Limani, bearing from Troezen N. 12.30.W. now closed by a
sand-bank, into which run all the streams in the vicinity of Troezen.
It seems probable, however, that the tem ple of Diana Saronia was si-
tuated in the marsh which lies at the western extremity of Port
Pogon, where there yet exist the vestiges of a temple. To find this
ruin proceed from Damala toward the western angle of the port. At
15 minutes cross the bed of a torrent from the right, perhaps the Hy-
lycos. The traces of a wall are distinguishable, running along the
road. At 16 minutes a church right. At 35, the port is at a small
distance right. This agrees with the measure given by Strabo of the
distance between Troezen and the sea. He says Troezen, anciently
Poseidonia, is 15 stadia from the sea, Book 8. At 50 minutes reach
the foot of the hills, which form the isthmus of Methana. Here near
the sea, or the Limne, are a few trees, under which are the ruins of a
chapel, probably on the site of the temple of Diana, and with an up-
right column of the Doric order.
On the hill toward Methana is the village of Masomata, and on the
left is another called Tou Pasias, or the Pachas village. The best
way to the peninsula of Methana and its present capital Dara from
Troezen would be across the plain to the village of Palaiourea visible
from Damala, and bearing nearly north. Wéry few strangers have been
seen in this portion of Argolis. There are considerable ruins of the an-
cient city of Methana not far from a village called Dara. The penin-
sula retains its ancient name. It consists chiefly of lofty mountains.
METHANA TO EPIDAURUS. 130
Pausanias says of Methana, “the isthmus, which projects far into
the sea, is a part of the Troezenian territory. In it is a small town
near the sea, called Methana. In it is a temple of Isis. Thirty stadia
distant from the town are warm salt baths. It is not safe to bathe
on the neighbouring coast, on account of the quantity of sea monsters
which infest it. Nine small islands near the continent are called the
islands of Pelops.” Pausanias.
Methana was a fortified place between Troezen and Epidaurus, of
the same name as the peninsula. Strabo, Book 8.
METHANA TO EPIDAURUS.
Quitting the village of Dara in the peninsula of Methana, the track
lies near the western shore of the isthmus. At 20 minutes pass a foun-
tain. At 31 minutes a village called Phallerini in a small circular
plain. At 44, the road passes over a bank of sand, in some places
only four yards broad, which now choaks up the entrance of the
Limani or western port of Troezen. The road continues close to the
sea. At one hour five minutes pass over a promontory. At one
hour 15 minutes a second cape. At one hour 20 minutes reach the
cultivated plain of Lessa, with a village of that name. At one hour
40, cross the beds of two torrents; the village of Lessa is on the left.
At one hour 50 minutes the plain of Lessa terminates.
T 2
140 EPIDAURUS TO PIADA.
On the left is a lofty mountain called by some of the people Ortho-
lithi. At one hour 56 ascend. On the right see a modern tower.
Ascend, till at four hours reach the village of Phanari. At four hours
10 minutes descend from Phanari into a circular plain with vine-
yards, the hills are bare. At four hours 20 minutes see on the right
ruins, now called Palaio Kastro. In the plain are several blocks of
squared stone. At five hours 10 minutes some culture. At six hours
see the village of Kollaki or Koliates, noticed in the route from Epi-
daurus to Troezen in a plain on the left. At six hours two minutes
see Epidaurus from the top of Mount Trachis. At seven hours, after
a very steep descent, reach the plain, and at seven hours 20 minutes
arrive at the village of Epidaurus.
EPIDAURUS TO PIADA.
Quitting the village of Epidaurus or Epidavro, ascend among
pretty bushes, passing a church and a fountain at one hour 15
minutes. At one hour 30 minutes reach the village of Piada, situated
in a pretty plain, one side of which is open to the gulph of Ægina, and
the other on which are the ruins of a Venetian fortress is overlooked
by a part of Mount Arachne.
PIADA TO ANGELO-KASTRO AND AGIANI.
From Piada proceeding toward Corinth, in two minutes cross a
stream which turns a mill on the right. At 20 minutes see a church
AGIANT TO CORINTH. 14:
right, and soon after cross two streams with mills, and enter a small
circular cultivated plain. At two hours 30 minutes, ascend among
olives, to a long narrow plain bounded by low hills. At three hours
12 minutes turn to the right quitting the plain. At three hours 30
minutes pass Angelo Kastro, a large village with a ruined fort upon
a hill. Descend; at four hours pass a well in a long narrow plain
well cultivated. In the centre of this plain see a second well.
At four hours 25 minutes the plain ends. Ascend, till at five hours
25 minute, when arrive at the village of Agiani.
AGIANI TO CORINTH.
The road for one hour from Agiani is exceedingly rugged and
unsafe. At two hours 20 minutes cross the dry bed of a torrent, be-
tween rocky hills. A fine view of the Acrocorinthus is caught in this
route. At three hours 30 minutes arrive at the foot of the Acroco-
rinthus, where are some ancient blocks of stone. Cross a stream,
and leaving Cenchrea far on the right, arrive at Corinth in four hours
and 10 minutes. The time employed in the whole route from Epi-
daurus to Corinth is 11 hours and five minutes. The account is
taken from the journal of Mr. Dodwell, who noted the facts on the
spot.
In the whole of this journey, there is very little worthy of remark,
in point of antiquities. There were the towns or villages of Rhetum,
142 AGIANT TO CORINTH.
Solygia, and Contoporia in the way, and the two ports of Bucephalium
and Piraeus. Perhaps also the town of Tenea mentioned by Strabo,
Book 8, was in this route, but these belong to the Corinthian
territory.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 143
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, WITH OTHER
REMARKS... . .
The upper part of the frontispiece represents the cover of what
appears to have been a sarcophagus of white marble, now lying on
the ground near the ruins of the building called Tholos at Iero, near
Epidaurus. Two small birds, which in the original, perch upon the
flowers, are omitted in the engraving. The crowns are of wild
parsley, pine, and oak, which were bestowed upon the victors at the
Nemean games. It may be necessary to account for the slight man-
ner in which some of the engravings accompanying this work are
executed. It will easily be understood that the expence of the vo-
lume must have been doubled, had they been more nicely finished,
when it is stated that the plate No. 9, which was the work of an artist
of established celebrity, cost the same sum as was expended on two
others of equal dimensions. They are however generally accurate ;
and where they fail, the mistake is noticed in the description.
PLATE II.
Plate 2, is a view of the temple of Jupiter Nemaeus, as it now ap-
pears. On the left is seen a tumulus, which seems to have been that
known by the name of Opheltes.
144 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
On the right upon an cminence a sccond tumulus is distinguishable.
The state of the temple is sufficiently detailed in the account of
Nemea. The brook which rises in this valley, and which is now
nothing more than a ditch near the temple, had the same name as the
place, and divided, as Strabo says, the Corinthian and Sicyonian ter-
ritories.
There was a village called Bembina, in the vicinity of Nemea,
Strabo, Book 8. Mr. Hawkins observes, that at the distance assigned
by Strabo from Nemea is a village still called Klenae, which is the an-
cient Cleonae. This spot is mentioned in the beginning of this
work.
TLATE III.
Plate 3, is a general map of the site of Mycenae from the village of
Krabata to the upper extremity of the acropolis, and including as
much of the uneven part of the country to the south, as serves to shew
the result of a search for the Heraeum in that direction. To the north
of the treasury of Atreus several indications of the plan of houses may
be observed. These are spots so completely covered with stones that
the plough cannot pass through them so that they retain their origi-
nal shape. They were sketched in from the opposite mountain, not
being so observable from the treasury. The engraving of this map is
a very faithful and accurate representation of the original drawing.
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, &c. Y 45
PLATE IV.
Plate 4, is the section and plan of the treasury of Atreus. Its
situation in the slope of the hill will be understood by consulting the
plate. Some have imagined that the pressure of the earth was neces-
sary to the existence of such a dome, but that idea does not appear
correct.
The thickness of the walls, except at the entrance, cannot be ascer-
tained, as the building is perfect, so that the outer face of the stone
nearest the earth is only given by guess. It has been pretended that
the great gate was originally entered by ascending three steps of
stone. The truth of this can only be ascertained by excavation.
PLATE W.
Plate 5, represents the gate of the treasury at Mycenae. In the ar-
chitrave are seen holes here too plainly shewn, into which brass nails
have been driven. On each side of the triangular opening, holes are
visible, which seem to have served for the pins which fastened orna-
ments of stone, probably the pilsaters, and the coating of green mar-
ble ornamented with balls and spirals, which were found buried be-
low, and of which specimens may be seen in the Earl of Elgin's col-
lection.
Uſ
146 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, &c.
The entrance is at the least half buried, when observed from this
point of view, but within much more may be seen. This is perhaps
the only gateway erected in very early times, where the antepa gments
do not consist of separate and appropriate stones, but are merely the
common blocks of the wall cut into three receding faces.
The earth on the sides of the passage to the door conceals some of
the wall to the right and left. In the fore-ground is seen the capital
of a column, or rather semicircular pilaster. This is of coarse
green marble, as is the pilaster itself, which now lies half buried in
the entrance. It is covered with zig-zag and spiral ornaments, exactly
like the capital which is seen more fully detailed in the miscellaneous
plate. It is a very curious fact that the temples of Egypt seem like
the treasury to have been without doors. In the upper part of the
jambs, however in some of the portals, holes intended to receive some
sort of cylindrical bar may be observed, and lower down other holes
by which a door, if it was made to oscillate from the upper bar as a
fulcrum, might be occasionally fastened. Hamilton's Egyptiaca,
page 90. It is rather to be supposed that the bar at the top supported
a veil, and that other bars were placed across the curtain to prevent
the wind from rendering it useless, a practice still common in the
East.
PLATE VI.
Plate 6, represents the interior of the treasury of Atreus. At the
entrance, a figure is seen standing upon the pilaster of green marble
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, &c, 147
before-mentioned. Above the entrance is the enormous block of
Breccia 27 feet in length and 16 in breadth. In the entrance may be
observed the holes into which brass nails have been driven, which are
not extracted without great difficulty. On the left, near the door of
the inner chamber these brass nails are again observable, and they are
in fact continued on all sides as well as to the top of the dome, though
the treasury is too gloomy to afford a view of them. The peasants
pretend that a lamp or some ornament of bronze, was suspended from
the top within the memory of some of the present inhabitants of Kra-
bata, but the story is probably untrue.
The earth is in some parts almost cleared away down to the pave-
ment. At the top is seen a hole, two or three of the stones having
been displaced. The disposition and forms of masonry, particularly
near the door, where it was possible to distinguish the joints, were co-
pied accurately on the spot. In addition to the buildings which are
found in other countries already mentioned, it is to be remarked, that
Norden discovered in Egypt, near the old port of Alexandria, an edi-
fice much resembling the treasury, which he calls a subterraneous
temple. The form is circular, and the roof vaulted. He did not ob-
serve the method of construction. Above the portal is a winged ball.
PLATE VII.
Plate 7, is a representation of several subjects, which, though inte-
resting in themselves, did not seem to merit separate engravings.
U 2
148 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
Several of the objects are easily understood. On the right at the
bottom of the plate are representations of the fragments of bronze
nails, which are found in the interior of the treasury, some of which
are so well fastened, that nothing but the head could be extracted,
and that in a very unsatisfactory state. The general size of the nails
running up the walls of the dome, and which really appear to have
been intended to fasten plates of brass to the stone, is that represented
by the smaller fragments. The larger nail was broken off from the
upper part of the dome, by means of a long pole, and there are pro-
bably many others of the same species. The wedge was also knocked
off in the same manner from the upper part of the building, but from
the darkness of the place its original position or use was not ascer-
tained.
The two specimens of the walls on the top of the citadel of Argos
are not of the most early date, but seem of the second order, having
in each regular horizontal lines of stone at different intervals.
Between these lines the stones are of every shape, and the masonry
perfectly irregular, though they have been fitted to each other with
the greatest nicety. These sketches are given, because it is impos-
sible to describe the stile of building so as to give any idea of its real
effect ; for the early masonry of Greece differs most materially from
the dry stone walls of other countries, yet in a manner which cannot
be explained without a drawing. The capital has been already
mentioned as belonging to a semicircular pilaster of the same green
marble, and with similar ornaments.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 149
The inscription from the Acropolis of Argos is very curious, and is
here given from a copy of it by Mr. Baker. The original is very per-
fect in every part where it is at all legible. It is given without any
comment, as the signification of it would be liable to much dispute.
$ * *
; , . " , , ; ; ; , "t rº ; , , . . ºf .
. . . . .('' '
PLATE VIII.
This plate gives a general.’representation of the situation of the
gate of the citadel of Mycenae. It is here seen at the end of
the recess which must have so materially contributed to its de-
fence. On the left the nearer hill is that of the citadel. The pointed
mountain beyond, is one of those which form the recess from which
it is probable the name of Mycenae was taken. This hill cuts off the
view of the sea, in the direction of Nauplia and Tiryns. The most
distant mountains on the opposite side of the gulph of Nauplia, are
those of Cynuria on the borders of Laconia. At the extremity of the
gulph toward the right is the marsh of Lerna, not visible from so great
a distance. The situation of the mills or Mylae is also distin-
guishable, and the tower above it upon the hill Pontinus mentioned
in page 84. Above this are seen the summits and branches of Mount
Parnon, which form the boundary of Argolis and Arcadia. The hills
stretching to the left are in the country called Cynouria, a part of Ar-
golis, and there is a peninsula belonging to the territory of Thyrea,
beyond which was the country of the Lacedemonians. To the right
of Mount Pontinus observe on the hill the towers of Larissa, the acro-
polis of Argos, under which the monastery is visible and a few houses
150 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
of the city, the rest being concealed by the Phoronean hill. In the
plain the bed of the Inachus is pointed out by a line of trees, on its
banks. In the second distañée on the right, thentumulus upon the
treasury of Atreus is visible, as well as the top of the gate and the tri-
angular opening into that edifice. Below is seen the ruin of a terrace
which seems to have been the site of some considerable structure.
. . . . . / ( ; , " , ; “;
PLATE IX. ...
Plate 9, is a nearer view of the gate of the lions, which shews the
effect of the portal from the entrance of the recess, and gives the stile
of the masonry in a clearer and more detailed manner. -
PLATE X. . . .
Plate 10, is an architectural view of the gate of the lions, every
block of which is here given in its true form and position. The lions
were designed on the spot with all possible care, even as far as the na-
tural fissures of the stone. The lions and the column are sufficiently
relieved. The decomposition of some parts of this lime-stone is so
remarkable, that either the hole in the thigh of the lion on the right,
or that which entirely divides its tail, penetrates entirely through the
block. The three lines on the knees of the lions are accurately
copied. If there be any defect in the representation, it may be
that the pillar is somewhat too small at the base. The height
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, 3.c. 15I
of the shaft of the inverted column is four feet, nine-inches. The
height of the echinus of the capital is 12 inches-one-eighth. The
height of the lower abacus is seven inches two-eighths. The upper
abacus is of the same height, and both together, with the four balls,
are 18 inches one-eighth high. These measures were taken by Mr.
Hawkins, who kindly communicated them. The column diminishes
toward the base in the proportion lieté represented.
PLATE XI. .
Plate 11, is a view of the little postern gate of Mycénêconstructed
with great simplicity. A part of the terrace by which the gate was
approached is here represented. Nothing could be better calculated
for defence than such a position. This part of the wall, as may be
observed on the left of the design, was composed of two or more thick-
messes of blocks, of which the outside only consisted of stones of corſ"
siderable magnitude. The opening of the gate itself does not diminish
sufficiently toward the top in this view, but some measurements are
given in page 42. - -
... ... PLATE:XII. . . . . . . . . .
Plate 12, represents the citadel of Mycenae, as it appears from the
hill a little above the isthmus, which connects it with the mountain
on the eastern side. In this view, the masonry is copied as accurately
152 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
as the distance permitted. The mountain on the left cuts off the view
of Argos from this position. The plain is visible beyond the citadel,
and on the other side of the plain is a part of the chain of Mount
Artemisium.
PLATE XIII.
Plate 13, represents a gate which is on the western side of the hill,
where it slopes from the long ridge of rock above the treasury of
Atreus, down to the plain and village of Krabata. The citadel of
Mycenae, with its mural crown, is seen toward the centre, between
mountains, one of which forms a bold and striking feature. This gate
is mentioned in page 43. It is at present almost buried in the ground,
so that without excavation, it is impossible to say to what species of
building it belonged. The other gate, mentioned in page 43, is still
more covered with soil, but is so similar to this, that a representation
of it would be useless.
PLATE XIV.
Plate 14, represents two specimiens of the walls of Mycenae and of
Tiryns. This design might be thought superfluous, but where so much
is said of Cyclopian masonry, it is better that the reader should un-
derstand precisely what that masonry is. For this purpose, the wall
of Tiryns is selected as giving the best idea of the present state of that
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 153
celebrated fortification. In some instances the little stones yet
remain, though time has rounded off their angles and destroyed in
many places all trace of the nicety with which they were once adapted
to each other. As this fact will probably be disputed by those who
have not narrowly examined these buildings, it is proper to remark
that walls in the present state of those of Tiryns and Mycenae would
be entirely useless, for any person with two stakes might ascend with-
out much difficulty, by thrusting them alternately into the openings,
and using them as steps. The specimen here given of the walls of
Mycenae is not of the most ancient stile, but of the stile succeeding it.
There are also at Mycenae walls of the same character with that given
in this plate, at Tiryns. The hole which now has the appearance of
a loop-hole or window, was probably occasioned by the fall or decay
of the stone which originally filled the opening. The two drawings
were made by Mr. Baker, when the author was on the spot. A scale
of feet is added by that gentleman, without which they would have
been very imperfect.
PLATE XV.
Plate 15, is a plan of Tiryns, of which no description is required.
It is probable that the galleries were continued through a great part
of the walls, if not throughout their entire circuit. Where the walls
are very perfect no entrance is found, so that the internal construc-
tion is only visible where the walls are in a shattered condition, and
fallen blocks have not choaked up the entrance of these passages.
X
154 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
That part of the foundation on the western side, which projects before
a recess in the wall, and a small gate is in a very unsatisfactory state
from its ruinous condition. The tower seems to be a solid mass of
masonry, and never contained any apartment.
PLATE XVI.
Plate 16, represents the only one of the galleries of Tiryns which it
is possible to represent in the present state of the ruins. It is not
easy to say whether it is the outer or inner passage, but certainly in-
dications of other foundations may be discovered on the slope of the
hill. The view assisted by the plan in the miscellaneous plate,
affords all the necessary information on the subject.
PLATE XVII.
Plate 17 is divided into two subjects; the lower division is a sketch
of the entire eastern front of the Acropolis of Tiryns, the masonry of
which was accurately copied on the spot. The ascent to the great gate,
running up two sides of a square tower is here visible in the center of
the drawing. Right of this the wall is ruined to the foundation. On
the left of the great gate observe a species of window which gives
light at present to the gallery represented in Plate 15. To the left of
'the citadel, in the distance are seen the mountains of Cynouria, below
which is the gulph of Argos and the castle in the island off Nauplia.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 155
The town of Nauplia is also visible, and the fortress of Palamediupon
its lofty precipice. On the right of the citadel, in the distance observe
the citadel of Argos.
The upper division of Plate 16, represents the prospect from the
town of Nauplia, and is chiefly intended to give an idea of the city
of Argos as seen from the sea. Above Argos in the distance are ob-
served the Snowy Summits of Mount Zyria, the ancient Cyllene,
spotted with pines. Mount Mallevo, the ancient Artemisius, with its
numerous branches lies immediately behind Argos. The theatre on
the base of the hill of Larissa is just perceptible from Nauplia. The
fountain, said to be that of Juno, mentioned by Pausanias, is now a
very muddy source, to be found between the two pillars of a gate,
on the left of the view in the town of Nauplia. The house with pro-
jecting windows supported by props in the upper story, is that of a
degraded Pacha, and is a good specimen of the town houses of the
upper ranks of people in this country.
PLATE XVIII.
Plate 18, is a view of the Larissa or citadel of Argos from the
Phoronean hill. On the top are the Venetian ruins, generally
placed on ancient foundations where any remained. The wall of
the city of Argos may be traced by foundations running down the hill
in a right line toward the spectator. There was probably a gate in the
hollow in the center of the view, called Deiras. The monastery has
x 2
156 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
been before mentioned as probably on the site of a temple of Apollo
Deiradiotes. To the right of this gate was the stadium. To the
right is the plain of Argos and the foot of Mount Artemisium and
torrent Charadrus. On the left a few of the houses of modern Argos
alſe S661).
PLATE XIX.
Plate 19, gives a general view of the country from the top of one of
the modern towers of Larissa, the citadel of Argos. In the fore-
ground are the ruins of Venetian buildings. The greater part of the
modern fortress consisting of numerous turrets lies behind the specta-
tor. Below the tower on the left lies the present town of Argos, of
which a few of the roofs generally placed in regular and parallel lines
are visible.
From the town numerous roads are seen running toward different
points of the country. The streams Inachus and Charadrus, which
unite in the plain toward the left, have in the design as in reality no-
thing to distinguish them from the roads but that they terminate
without an object. The site of Tiryns and its little hill are marked
above the tower on the left, and the road to that place is seen
crossing the bed of the Inachus in the plain at its junction with the
Charadrus.
This is the road mentioned by Pausanias as the great road to
Dpidaurus, which left Tiryns on the right, while Mideia lay on some
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 157
of the hills on the left. The site of that city might easily be disco-
vered in a morning's ride from Nauplia, and the remains of walls
which were decidedly Cyclopian, would probably well repay the
trouble of the search. Above Tiryns, turning a little to the left is
seen the opening in the hills, between the foot of Mount Arachne
to the left, and the mountains towards Asine on the right, through
which lies the road to Epidaurus and Troezen.
The great expence only attending the engraving, prevented the pro-
longation of this design to the right and left to form a perfect pano-
rama. To the left the plain of Argos might have been seen, stretching
at the foot of hills which almost seem to join Arachne. The
plain is terminated by Mycenae, beyond which is a glen opening
toward Corinth and Nemea, and the village of Phyti might have been
observed, which has been mentioned as the possible site of the
Heraeum.
The want of this view is somewhat compensated by the view from
Mylae, where the relative situations of Argos and Mycenae may be
observed. To the right of Tiryns observe the high rock and fortress
of Palamedi, below which lies the town of Nauplia and the castle
upon a rock in the port. Behind Palamedi is the point of land which
terminates near Port Tolone. Below Nauplia, on the Argive side of
the bay, observe a little indentation of the coast to which roads run
through a village from Argos. This may have been the site of Te-
menium, the ancient port of Argos, a spot pointed out by nature for
that purpose. There is to the right of this, another indenture of the
158 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
coast which may have been near the village of Lerna, and one of
these creeks may have been formed by the Inachus, when after heavy
rains in the mountains its waters reach the sea, while the other was
equally produced by the Erasinus. The marsh of Lerna lies a little
to the right of the last. In this swampy ground is a species of island
somewhat raised above the common level of the soil, but from the
distance not visible in this view. Whether the village of Lerna and
its temple stood on that spot cannot now be easily ascertained, but
there seems no reason for placing Lerna quite close to the place now
called Mylae, on the Alcyonian lake. The marsh of Lerna is sup-
plied by the river Erasinus, which is distinguished by a number of
poplars and other trees which run across the plain from the foot of
Mount Chaon on the right. The poplars at the right of the gulph
close to the shore, mark the position of the Mylae or mills which are
on the Alcyonian pool, and are turned by the copious waters of
Amymone, which burst from the foot of Mount Pontinus, now
distinguished by a tower on the site of a temple of Minerva Saitis.
Here was originally a spot called Triaina, where Neptune planted
his trident. Scholiast on the Phaenissae of Euripides. This Mr.
Bryant says was a beacon. The place makes the supposition plau-
sible, for during the early ages the Carian pirates made such precau-
tions necessary, as Thucydides observes. Beyond Mylae and Mount
Pontinus the vale opens, which may have been the position of Gene-
sium and the place called Apobathmos where Danaus landed. After
this valley, a rough mountain is seen projecting into the sea, over
the point of which lay that narrow road termed by Pausanias
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 159
Anigrata. Beyond this is a building not seen in the engraving, which
serves as a magazine, and below it is a little bay where vessels may
anchor. Then follows a district mentioned by Pausanias as covered
with olives and other trees, and which still retains its character.
Beyond this again lies the country near Thyrea, and the tombs of
the Argives called Polyandria.
The route from Argos to Sparta, leaving Mount Berbena to the
right, has been traversed by Mr. Morritt, who noted the magazine,
with its anchorage, and the district covered with olives. This road
falls into that between Tripolizza and Mistra, near a Khan called
IGrabata. To the right of Lerna, and above the source of the Era-
sinus, the road to Tripolitsa or Tripolizza, the modern capital of the
Morea, is seen ascending the hills. This anciently passed by Hysiae
to Tegea. Had this design been continued to the right, the branches
of Mount Artemisium would have been seen with the ravine by
which the torrent Charadrus descends from that mountain to the
plain of Argos. There is a village named Caparelli in these moun-
tains, said by the people to be two hours distant from Argos, but Mr.
Hawkins observes, that though Caparelli is in the Villaeti or district
of Argos, it is situated in the plain of Mantinea, and consequently
must be at a considerably greater distance. The road to Mantinea
over Mount Mallevo or Artemisium, lies up a rocky ravine, from
which the torrent Charadrus runs. The Inachus flows down a valley
seen from the top of Larissa, passing a village called Schoino-Chorio
in its way. At the village called Pesopode, near this valley, vases of
very ancient pottery are found. There were anciently, as at present,
160 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
several villages in the plain, among which one called Saminthus is
mentioned. Thucydides, Book 5. 58.
The description of the view toward the north from Argos may
assist the traveller when on the spot, though the view be not ex-
tended to that part of the country.
PLATE XX.
Plate 20, is a general view of the gulph of Nauplia, from a tumulus
in the plain, south of the Alcyonian lake, which lies in the foreground
on the left of the design. The weeds on the surface of the water ill
accord with the supposed depth of the pool, but the dam has
increased the extent of the lake beyond its natural limits, and the
margin is by no means deep. On the left is a chapel, near which is
a little fountain gushing out of the rock, probably the fount of
Amphiaraus. Behind this is the base of Mount Pontinus. ... The
fountain of Amymone rises behind the point, and creates the lake,
which supplies the mills with water. The mills which now give the
name of Mylae to the place, are seen on the shore beyond the pool.
The distant castle on a conical hill is that of Argos, anciently called
Larissa. It should be observed, that the mountain is not quite so
lofty nor so peaked as it is here represented. The same may be said
of the mountains above Mycenae, and in general of the whole view,
but the expence of engraving so large a plate is so serious a consi-
deration, that incorrect as this is, there remains no other remedy
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 161
than pointing out the most material deviations from the original.
Under the citadel Larissa lies the town of Argos, and above Argos is
the hill called Aspis, or the hill of Phoroneus. - * .
In the distance above this is seen the Mount Apesas, near Nemea
and Cleonae. The top, which is here circular, should have been flat.
Mycenae is scarcely to be distinguished at the foot of some pointed -
mountains above the hill Aspis on the right. From Mycenae to the
right run the mountains which separate the valley of Birbati from
the plain of Argos, and about half-way between Mycenae and Tiryns
is the spot called Klissura, which is the outlet of that valley. Tiryns
is marked with its little eminence in the plain. In the distance
above it Mount Arachne and its branches are visible. To the right
of this again is Mount Didymo. The castle on the rock in the port
of Nauplia is seen, Nauplia itself and the inaccessible fortress of Pa-
lamedi with its mosque. Proceeding to the right the continent ter-
minates at a point near Port Tolone. The islands are named in the
design. On the terra firma to the right, is seen that pass near the
sea on the foot of the mountain, which the ancients called Anigraa,
and which lay in the way to Cynouria, and by Eua to Sparta.
S PLATE XXI.
The situation of Nauplia has been already shewn. This view is
selected for the purpose of giving the elevation of the rock of Pala-
medi and the way by which it is connected with the town. Several
Y
I62 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
bomb-proof passages are seen running up the base of the hill, after
which steps placed on the top of the walls ascend successively by an
infinite variety of windings and projections to the summit. This view
was taken from the top of a house, on account of the jealousy with
which travellers are watched, and which is peculiar to this spot, for
the Turks seem to have little suspicion of foreigners in other places.
The houses of Nauplia are better built than those of the other towns
of the country. The walls of the ancient town may be traced on the
rocks to the right, and are in some places visible in the design.
PLATE XXII.
Plate 22, is an outline of the view near the valley now called Iero,
or the sacred, once the grove of Æsculapius, from the theatre,
which was one of its principal ornaments, and which is seen on the
left in the fore-ground. About the centre of the view the stadium is
seen in the plain, and to the right of it is the cistern of the great bath,
beyond which are the ruins of a Roman Sudatorium.
To the right of this, under a large tree, the pavement of a temple
may be discovered. Near the curved end of the stadium the foun-
dations of a large edifice are seen, and among the bushes below the
great cistern are found the ruins of the Tholos and a temple. The
torrent which runs by the theatre seems to have supplied a circular
pool, which is distinguished in the design.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 163
PLATE XXIII.
Of the plan of the grove or inclosure of Æsculapius at Iero, it is
sufficient to remark, that the objects at the greatest distance from the
precinct are less correctly placed than those which are near it. It
was of consequence to shew the direction of Lykourio from Iero,
and on this account that place was inserted without regard to its
actual distance. -
PLATE XXIV.
Plate 24, is a view of the site of the ancient city of Epidaurus
from a hill above the cottages of the modern village of Epidavro. The
scene is very pleasing. A few traces of the ancient wall of the city
may be distinguished on the peninsula. The mountains of the pro-
montory of Methana are seen above it. Under a large tree below is
a mutilated figure, perhaps belonging to the sepulchre of the
person represented in a consular robe. The figure leans or sits upon
what appears to have been the cover of a sarcophagus of white
marble. The pointed top of the Oros of Ægina is seen on the left
of the peninsula. Nearer is a part of the island of Angistri, and
beyond this the mountains of Attica. To the left lies a part of the
modern village, and the point over which lies the road to Piada.
Y 2
164 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
TLATE XXV.
The view of the hill on which the citadel of Troezen is supposed to
have stood, and the modern village of Damala, would have presented
nothing worthy of remark, and therefore the view here exhibited is
selected, which is taken from the summit on which once was con-
structed a Venetian fortress. It is much to be doubted if the
Troezenians ever had a citadel upon this spot, and whether the eleva-
tion seen in this design to the left of the church of the Panagia.
Episkopi is not the true site of the fortress of Troezen.
In the hollow between this hill and the church was in all probabi-
lity the stadium. All the brooks of the plain of Troezen run to the
Limani or port on the west, now ruined by a bank of sand. Above
that port are seen the point of Methana, the island of Kira, the pro-
montory anciently called Spiraeum in Epidauria, the Scironian rocks
in Megaris, and above these a mountain which appears like Par-
IłąSSllS.
The plain of Troezen, which is in general well cultivated, lies below
the observer, and is terminated by the hills on the Isthmus of
Methana. To the right of the peninsula the island and the Oros of
AEgina are seen, and beyond these the hills of Attica, beginning with
Hymettus, and stretching down to Sunium.
DFSCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 165
In some trees on the western extremity, or left of port Pogon, is a
column of the temple, which may be that of Diana Saronia. In
Port Pogon, which is formed by the Isle of Calaurea, a curved point
of land is seen, which was perhaps the station of the navy of Troezen.
At the eastern extremity of Port Pogon, observe the town of Poros
and the neck of land which connects that peninsula with the Isle of
Calaurea. The point of the lsle of St. Giorgio, anciently Belbina, is
first caught to the right. Below the highest summit of Calaurea ob-
serve some of the houses of the village of Damala. The torrent
which runs from Troezen toward Methana, and which is usually
taken for that called Chrysorroas, seems, to have changed its course
as the church in the plain has been divided into two parts by the
force of the stream. #
DLATE XXVI.
Plate 26 is given, in order to compensate in some degree for the
want of geographical details in this part of the country ; it was taken
from a station not far from the village now called Eileio, on the road
between Hermione and Troezen. The distant mountains seen across
the Argolic Gulph are those of Laconia, which are lost in a point on
the left near Monembasia.
The island and town of Specie are near the centre, and below the
western point of it, on the terra firma, the mills of the hill of Kastri or
Hermione are distinguishable. On the left of Kastri the port now
166 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
shut up by a neck of sand, and at present called Thermesi, may be
seen. On a rocky mountain near it are vestiges of a castle, which the
people say is of modern construction. The little island near Specie
is now called Specie Poulo.
PLATE XXVII.
Plate 27, is a view of the ports of Hermione separated by the pro-
montory on which stood the most ancient city of the Hermionenses,
and where the pavement of the temple of Neptune may yet be seen.
Some of the houses of Kastri may be seen below the windmills. The
spot whence this view was taken is that on which the second city of
Hermione was built, of which Pausanias speaks.
The island and town of Hydra are seen in this view. The northern
extremity of Hydra is opposite to Cape Skyllo, or the Scyllaean pro-
montory on the terra firma.
PLATE XXVIII.
Plate 28, is a general map of Argolis. The principal angles and
observations by which it was laid down will be easily understood.
The latitudes and longitudes of Athens and Corinth are ascertained
by the French astronomers. The bearing of the Acrocorinthus was
taken from Athens and corrected. The bearing of the peaked moun-
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 167
tain called the Oros of Ægina was also taken, and next the angle be-
tween the Oros and Athens from Corinth. From Athens and the
Oros the top of Mount Hymettus was fixed, and these two points,
which are seen in all parts of the gulph, were of the greatest use in
determining many other stations. The Scyllaean promontory was
determined from Ægina and Hymettus, and Sunium by its bearing
from that Cape and Ægina. Epidaurus was placed by the Oros and
Hymettus, and the citadel of Troezen by the same points. Next the
situation of Argos is obtained by latitude, and it was connected with
Corinth by angles to a peaked summit of Mount Cyllene and the
Mount Apesas near Nemea, visible from both places. Mycenae and
Nauplia were fixed both by latitudes and angles, and the mills near
Lerna were placed by observations on Argos and Nauplia. From
the mills, the angle between Nauplia and the highest point of Specie
was observed, and Specie is likewise fixed by astronomical obser-
vations, all of which agree most perfectly with the angles from the
terra firma. The bearing of Specie was also taken from the point
near Port Tolone, and this point fixed by angles to the mills and
Argos. The situation of Lykourio was ascertained by its bearing
from the Oros of Ægina and the summit of Mount Arachne, and
Mount Arachne was fixed by angles from AEgina and Athens. The
number of lesser and subordinate triangles is infinite, those already
mentioned are sufficient to render the map tolerably authentic.
Angles from the island of Specie would have rendered the southern
coast more perfect, but they were not to be obtained. The coast
therefore from the point opposite Specie to the port of Vivares is only
copied from a Spanish chart, which appeared to be the best outline of
168 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
the country. The same may be said of the coast from the Scyllaeau
promontory toward Thermisi.
The country from Epidaurus to Corinth is also less perfect than the
rest, as it is not laid down from personal observation, and of course
is deficient in those details which will be found to be the chief ex-
cellence of the parts actually surveyed. No detail is attempted near
Didymo or Asine, or in the part called anciently Cynouria, for these
portions are better in their present state than if filled up with
imaginary or fancied mountains. The spaces may be filled up here-
after by future travellers. *
The small scale of the map will by many be thought a defect, but
it was necessary that it should be reduced, in order to come within
the compass of a quarto volume. Having all the details for laying
down the map on any scale, a larger size would have been chosen,
could the paper have been folded more than once, without being
liable to be quickly worn out, even with the most careful usage.
Excepting those instances already mentioned, the whole map is
entirely composed from personal observations. Indeed the maps which
have already been published, of this and every other part of Greece,
seem entirely fabricated by the fancy of the geographer, so that there
was not the least hope of making the labours of others subservient to
the present undertaking. In the maps affixed to the voyage of
Anacharsis, the river running by Alea is made to fall into the
Inachus in the map of Arcadia, and this seems so probable that
it has here been adopted, though it appears from the map of
Argolis by the same author, that the other was a mere fancy.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c. 169
The inaccuracies of the maps of Anacharsis are in many respects
very glaring. The situation of Phlius is marked by Strabo as sur-
rounded by the territories of Sicyon, Argos, Cleonae, and Stymphalus.
Mr. Hawkins observed, that Phlius, the ruins of which still exist near
Agios Giorgios, lies in a direct line between Cleonae and Stymphalus,
and another from Sicyon to Argos, so that Strabo was correct in
saying that it lay between those four towns, yet we see Phlius in the
map of Argolis by M. Barbie du Bocage placed ten miles to the north
of Stymphalus, contradicting both history and fact. D'Anville is
guilty of the same error.
M. du Bocage places a town named Phlius, and by him Phlionte,
on the point of land which forms the port of Drepano; there are not
at present any ruins there. The maps of D'Anville are generally
more correct than any others where ancient geography is concerned.
A mistake occurs on the subject of Tiryns, and a place named by him
Vathia, but of which nothing can be understood. It is possible that
Vathi, or the profound valley, may be a name sometimes used for the
valley of Barbitsa, and that the place named by D'Anville Claustra,
may be the outlet of that valley called Kleisoura, which has a
corresponding signification.
The city of Tiryns is also placed in two different positions, once by
its Greek name, and again as Tirynthus. The mistake between the
islands of Sphaeria and Calauria has been noticed in page 185. The
Pontinus, which D'Anville represents as a river, and the Erasinus are
2.
170 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, &c.
equally ill placed in his map. There was a place called Creopolis
somewhere toward Cynouria, but its situation is not easily fixed.
The ports called Bucephalium and Piraeus seem to have been
nothing more than little bays in the country between Corinth and
Epidaurus. The town called Athenae in Cynouria by Pausanias, is
called Anthena by Thucydides, Book 5. 41.
In general the map of D'Anville will be found more accurate than
those which have been published since his time; indeed the mistakes
of that geographer are in general such as could not be avoided with-
out visiting the country. Two errors of D'Anville may be mentioned,
least the opportunity of publishing the itinerary of Arcadia should
never occur. The first is that the rivers Malaetas and Mylaon, near
Methydrium, are represented as running toward the south, whereas
they flow northwards to the Ladon; and the second is that the Aroa-
nius, which falls into the Erymanthus at Psophis, is represented as
flowing from the lake of Pheneos, a mistake which arises from the
ignorance of the ancients themselves who have written on the subject.
The fact is that the Ladon receives the waters of the lakes of
Orchomenos and Pheneos, but the Aroanius rises at a spot not two
hours distant from Psophis.
APPENDIX.
171
MANTINEA TO ARGOS.
The route from Mantinea to Argos over Mount Artemisium or
Malevo, having been incorrectly given as to time, and being deficient
in detail, the present account of that road was kindly communicated
by Mr. Hawkins.
From the south gate of Mantinea to the entrance of the
plain of Chipiana
To the monastery of Chipiana .
This monastery is by vulgar computation five hours from
Argos and three from Tripolitsa.
From the monastery to the top of the ridge .
Summit to the village of Turniki
Turniki to the foot of the mountain
To the crossing of the river . . . . . . .
From the river across a plain .
To the castle of Argos
hours.
O
O
7:
45
55
:
25
10
2O
This makes the distance between Argos and Tripolitsa nearly the
same, whether the usual road or that passing over Mallevo be taken,
and the ascent of the mountain sufficiently accounts for the pre-
ference commonly given to the road by Hysiae and the fount of the
Erasinus.
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Page Page
Anssitza, village of ------------------ 74 || Amymone, fount of.----- -------------- 83
Acraea, mountain called ------------- --- 45 Anathema, account of.----------------- 7 I
Acrocorinthos -------- º, sº sº an am s m ms tº wº ºs º ºs m sº me 21 | Angistri, island of -------- tº a mº m sº me = m. l 14–163
Acra, promontory called---------------- 125 | Angles------------------------- ----- 107
Acherusian lake ------------------ ---- 127 | Angelo Kastro, village of ------ = • * * * * * * 141
Adrastea, fountain called.-------------- 24 Anigrea---------!------- * * * * * * * * * * 85–159
Adrastus, palage of -------------------- 01 | Apesas, Mount ------ tº m ºn tº sº ºm º ºs m. m. ºn sº ºn m º º 21–24.
Fsculapius, temple of----------- gº ºn m = * * * * 61 | Apobathmos, village of -------------- 85–158
remains of --------------- - 106 || Aperopia, island of-------------------- 126
territory consecrated to------ 103 Apollo, temples of Deiradiotes---------- -. 62
grove of -------------- ---- 104 Horios -------------- 127
statue of------- sº m sº tº m tº twº tºº sm º ºn 104. IEgyptian ------------ 105
bath of ------------------ 105 Epibaterias ----- ----- 1:19
snakes sacred to------------ 109 Lycius ---------- ----' 59
Aºpytus, tomb of ---------------------- 72 Malean----------105–109
ſegisthus, tomb of -------------------- 34 Platanistios.----. ------ 123
AEgyptus, tomb of the sons of ------------ 62 Thearius ------------- 1 18
AEgina, island of ----------- * = m, ºm º º ºs m. ºn 11 1, 112 Pythian.-------------. I 34
Agamemnon, tomb of ------------------ 34 || | at Didymi------------ 133
Agiani, village of.--------------------- 141 | Araithurea, village of ------ • - - - - - - - ----- 80
Agia Marina, a church with Ionic ruins---- 101 | Arachne, Mount:---- * = * * * * * * * * * 51—99—l IO
Agios Adrianos------------------------ 97 Argos, plain of------------------------ 27
Agios Basili, village of.----- *** * * m = * * tº an ºn m. m. 20 town of.------------------ ----- 59
Agios Demetrios, church called ---------- 5 1 theatre of ----------- mº ºn sm: mº m ºn sº º ſº º º 63
monastery called.------. 98 sepulchre of.----- -------------- 67
Agios Georgios, plain of----------------- 73 Aristera, island of-------------------- ... 125
village of ---------- ---- 74 Aristotle on the soil of Argos ------------ 80
Agora, of the Troezenians -------------- I l 8 Artemisium, Mount-----------. -------- 87
Alea, site of.-------------------------- 79 Aspis, strong position called ------------- 65
Alcyonian pool---------------- tº º ºs ims tº sº mº 84, 160 | Asterion, brook and herb-...--------- ----- 44
Amphiaraus, templeof------------------ * | Asine ----------------------- -------- 134,
fount of ---------------- 84, 160 || Athame, or Adami, village of ------------ 115
A d. *
INDEX.
Page
Athena, or Anthena------------------- - 85
Atreus, treasury of.-------------- 29, &c. 145
B.
Bacchus, temples of, at Argos------------ 61
Cresius ---------- 62
Saotes ----------- 83
Melanaegis -------. 127
Barberi, village of---------------------- 97
Barbitza, village of -------------------- 52
Bathi, Bedegni, village of--------- * = &º sº nº ſº ſº | 15
Basili, St. Mount ---------------------- 74.
Baton, temple of.---------------------- {;1
Bembina, village ----- tº sº mº m º ºs ºm º º sº º º ºs º ºs º º | #4,
Bizati, port named -------- ------------ | 32
Bridge, ruins of Cyclopian ------------ 28–45
Bridge, small, traces of------------------ 45
Bolei-------------------------------- T 33
Bucephalus, Cape ------------- tº sº º sº ſº ims tº º sº T 25 .
Bujukli, mill of ------------------ ----- 20
Buporthmos, mountain ----------------- 126
Buryrouldi, passport called -------------- 5
*C.
Calauria, island ------- ------- 117–122–135
Candia, village called ------------------ 131
Canathus, fount called------------------ 91
Caparelli, village ---------------------- 159
Castor and Pollux, temple of ------------- 61
Celenderis, port called--------------- - - - 137
Cephissus, temple of the river------------ 59
Cenchrea----------------- * ſº º º sº º ſº I ſº m ms 141
Ceres, temples of, at Argos -------------- 60
the lawgiver -------- 12O
Mysia -------------- 47
Thermisi------------ 123
Pelasgic ------------ 66
Didymi ----------- - 133
Cerdos, monument of.------- ſº tº º ſº, sº nº m ºi nº mº 60
Charadrus, torrent called -------- 87, S8—l 56
Chaon, Mount ----------------- ** = * * * * 79
Cheimarros, river.----- º º sº ºwn ºn tº º ſº º ºs º ºs º tº -- 88
Page
Cheladia, village called---------------- I 32
Cheladia, place called------------------ 95
Cheli, Port --------------------- ----- 132
Chinoparti, village called---------------- 97
Chione, village called --------- -------- 70
Choria, tomb of ---------------------- 50
Chrysoroas, river------------------ 1 I 9–121
Cleonae -------------------------- 19–21
Clymenus, temple of ------------------ 127
Clytemnestra, tomb of.----------------- 34.
Coele, street called -------------------- 66
Coccygius, hill called ------- sº ºn sº m, s = * * * * * 132
Contoporia, village of------------------ 1432
Corinth------------------------- ----- 19
Cotyos, Portico, called--------- --------- 105
Uriterion, district called -------------. 59–64,
Crotopos, monument of ---------------- 62
i Cteatus, monument of ---------------- 19
Cthonia, district called ---------------- 127
Cylarabus, gymnasium of -------------- 61
tomb of.------------------- 61
Cyclopian walls. See Mycenae, Tiryns, &c.
153, 154
Cymortium, mountain------------------ 105
D.
Damala --------------- -----118–134–164
Danae, brazen chamber of -------------- 67
Danaus, ship of ---------------------- 55
tumulus of --------- * * * * * * * * * 63
| Dara, village called -------------------- 1 38
Daulis ------------------------------ 2
Deianira, monument of ---------------- 61
Deiras, gate called -------------------- 66
Delphi ----------------------- ------- 2
Delta, district called ------------------ 60
Temosthenes, sepulchre of -------------- 136
Terveni, or guard house -------------- 21–26
Diampares, gate called------------------ 62
Diana, grove of ---------------------- 1 12
Tiana, temples of, on Mount Artemisium-- 87
at Iero --------------
INDEX.
Page
Diana, temples of, Coryphea ------- ----- 105
Lyceia -------------- I 18
Orthia -------------- 78
the Saviour --- ------ 1 18
Saronia ---------- 137–164
Didymi or Didymo, village of.----------- 133
Dioscuri, temple of the ---------------- 83
Directions for Travellers -------------- 5–12
Dome, construction of ----------------- 30
Drepano, Port of.---------------------- 94.
E.
Echo, portico called-------------------- 127
Eilio, village called ---------------- 123–125
Electra, tomb of ---------------------- 34
Eleuthero Lacones -------------------- 2
Eleutherion, rivulet called-------------- 44
Ellenon Lithari, edifice called------------ 26
Epidaurus---------------------- -- l l 1, 112
Epidota, temple called.---------------- 105
Ephyre, island called ------------------ 95
Epimenides, tomb of ------------------ 60
Epione, statue of------------------ 104—l 12
Epicarus, ancient name of Epidaurus------ | | 8
Erasinus, source of ------------------ 70-79
Brasinus, river------------------------ 82
Eriphyle, monument of ---------------- 61
Eua, village called -------------------- 85
Euboea, mount------------------------ 44
Eurymedon, tomb of------------------ 34.
Eurystheus, brazen chamber of ---------- 32
Eurytus, monument of-------- - - - - - - - - - - 19
F.
Firman------------------------------ 5
Fortune, temples of, at Argos -----------. 59
at Hermione -------- 127
G.
Galleries, supposed, at Mycenae---------- 4.3
Gate, remains of at Mycenae------------ 43
Gaurias, or Gabrias, mount called -------- 74.
Page
| Genesium, village of ---------------- 85–158
Genethlion, district called-------------- 137
Georgio, St. island of .----------------- 117
Gorgon, tumulus of the---------------- 60
Gorgophone, tumulus of ---------------- 60
Graces, grove of the-------- sº tº sº tº ºm º º sº ---- 126
H.
Haliei, inhabitants of Hermione ---------- I 30
Hadgineto, village of ------------------ 114
Halice ------------------------------ 132
Halyusa, rock called ------------------ 95
Hecate, temple of-...-------------------- 61
Heraeum, or temple of Juno---------- 44—77
Herculeus, fountain called-------------- 120
Herma, place called-------------------- S5
Hermione, city of ------------ 126–128–166
Hermione, site of.--------------------- 124.
Hippocrene, fountain called ------------ I 19
Hippolytus, precinct dedicated to-------- I HQ
stadium called ------------ I 19
Hippomedon, house of.----------------- 83
Hours, temple of the ------------------ 59
Hydra, island of ---------------------- 13]
Hydra of Lerna ----------------- ----- 83
Hydron, island called------------------ I 30
Hygeia, temple of --------- * * * * * tº m ºr m ºn º 105
Hylycos, fountain of the river--------122, 123
Hypermnestra, monument of------------ 60
Hyrieus, treasury of ------------------- 32
Hysiae, ruins of.---- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 78
I.
Jafferi, village of -------------------- 93–97
Janissary ------ * * * * * * * * * * m sº m ºn ºn m m sm º m sº ºn 8
Iero, ruins called ---------------------- 82
Iero of Æsculapius-------------------- 103
1 Inachus, river -------------------- 47–157
branch of the ---------- tº mº m ºn tº º 49
Inscription, curious at Argos-------- 68–149
Irene, island called---------- ---------- 95
Isis, temple of at Troezen-------------- 120
A a 2 nº
INDEX.
Page
Isis, temple of, at Methana ----------- ..-- 139
cell of ------------------------- - 126
Juno, temples of Acraea---------------- 62
the flowery------------ 60
at Prosymna ---------- 52
Jupiter, temples of Coccygius------------ I 32
Larissean ------------ 62
the Saviour ---------- 50
Nemacan ---------- 22–59
Jupiter, Liberator, altar of -------------- 60
K.
Kalybea, or temporary village ------------ 20
Karatcha, village of-------------------- 116
Karatone, place called ------------- ----- 90
Kastri. ------------------------------ 128
Katabathron, chasm called-------------- 70
Katchingri, village of -------------- ---- 97
Kenchraea---------------------------- 78
Khans ------------------------------ 12
Klissura, pass called-------------------- 52
Klenge -------- * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - | 44
Koliates or Kollaki, village called ----114–140
Korasa, hill called -------------- * * * * * * 1 I ()
Korakia, point called ------------------ 95
Koromi, village of.----- .* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 103
Kortesa, khan called ------------------- 2I
Koumariou Langathe ------------------ 73
Krabata, village of ------------------ 27, 28
tower of ------------------ -- 28
khan of---------------------- .1.8
Krenidi, town of---------------------- I 39
Krenidi, promontory of ---------------- 95
Kutchukmadi, village of.------------- 22–75
L.
Laliote ------------------------------ Q6
Larissa, citadel called -------------- 62–155
hºof------------------------ 63
Latona, temple of, at Argos-------------- 60
Lerna ---------- * * * * * * = * * * * * * * 82, 83–158
Lessa, town of ſº º º is ºn ºn m. m. m. ºn sº ºn an ºn as ºn 84–102—I 30
Page
Limani, port called, near Methana-------- I 38
Limani of Thermisi, port called ---------- ! 23
Limne, or salt lake ---------------- 122—l 38
Lions, gate of the, at Mycenae - - - -35, 36–150
Linus, sepulchre of ------- * - - - - - - - - - - - - 50
Litter ------------------------------- 7
Lycimnia, citadel called ---------------- 77
Lycimnius, tomb of -------- ----------- 61
Lycena, mount ---------------------- 78, 79
Lycurgus, tumulus of ------------------ Q3
Lykurio, village of ---------- tº ſº tº º ſº tº ſº tº sº gº sº. 101
Lysistratus, sepulchre of -------------- 134,
Lucina, gate of, at Argos ------------ 47–59
temple of, at Argos-------------- 61
temple of, at Hermione.---------- 128
MI. *
Macronisi, island of-------------------- 95
Maenala, mount ---------------------- 87
Malvasia, point called------------------ 95
Mantinea, route from, to Argos---------- 17 I
Malevo, Mount, see Appendix.
Mars, temple of, at Hermione.-------...-- 127
temple of near Methana---------- 137
Marsh, Lernaean ---------------------- 82
Saronian---------------------- 137
Mases ------------------------------ 133
Masomala, village of ------------------ 138
Melissa, monument of.----------------- 1-12
Mercury, Polygius, statue of ----------- } 10
Metoiki---------------------- ------- QQ
Methana, promontory of.------------ I l 1 — l l 4
Port ------------------------ 1 17
Minerva, temples of, at Argos------------ 62
at Cleonae ---------- 10
Apaturia ---------- 135
at Hermione.------- 126
Saitis-------------- , 83
Stherias------------ | 20
Salpinga ----------- 60
- Promachorma ------- 126
Mideia, site of.----------------- 52—84—157
Page
Page
Mideia, Electryon, King of-------------- 53
Minyas, treasury of.------------------- 32
sepulchre of ------------------ 34
Mirza, village of ---------------------- 97
Monument, curious ---------- ---------- 72
Mules ------------------------------ 6
Museus, altar of ---------------------- 118
Muses, temple of ------------------ ---- 118
Mycenae -------------------- wn tº me sº im, mºs ºn wº 20
name of.---------------------- 43
Mylae, mills of.---------------------- - 82
N.
Names, ancient and modern, confused ----- 16
Nairea, Naria, or Nathia -------------- 96, 97
Nails brass ---------------- --29---I 45---148
composition of ------ tº sº ºn tºº sm ºm º ºs º ºn tº º 30
Naumachia -------- tº ºn tº ºr ºt tº gº ºn ºn ºn ºn tº m = * * *-* * 108
Nauplia -------- we ºn m ºn tº ºn tº its we wºn sm ºn tº * * * * * 89—155
Nemea ------------------------------ 21
position of --------------------- 22
brook called-------------------- 24
Nemean Lion, cave of ------------ 21---25, 26
Neptune, temples of, at Temenium-------- 82
- at Nauplia---------- 91
Hippias ------------ 31
Genesios ---------- 85
Phytalmios -------- 125
Prosclystius -------- 61,
at Didymi---------- 133
at Hermione.-------- 127
Neris, village of ---------------------- 85
O.
GEnoe, town of------------------------ 87
Omar Tsaousch, village of.----------- ---- 20
Orestes, cell of.---------------------- l 19
Ornaments at Mycenae ------------ 28, 29–42
Ornea ------------------------------ S6
Ornca, river--------- ----------------- 75
Oros of Ægina, mountain called ---------- 101
Ortholithi, mount----------------- - 124, 125
Opheltes, sepulchre of ----------- - - -23–143
P.
Palamedi, castle of -------------------- 54.
Palaiopolis, ruins at ----------- tº m m im as ºn m = S7
Palaiourea, village of ------- sm as sº sº sº as * * * * * | | 8
Palaio Kestro ------------- ºn tº º ºr ºt tº sº m º º º 97
Palatia ------------------------------ 136
Pallas, statue of ------------------ ---- 112
Panagia, church of the------------------ 51
Panagia Episkopi, church of the ---- 118–121
Pan Luterios, temple of.--------------- 120
Paphia, village called -------- tº º m ºn ºn ºn ºn tº ºn tº 134,
Peali, village of.----------------------- 81
Pelops, tomb of.----------------------- 34.
Pelasgus, tomb of.------ as ºr me = m, sº sº * * * * * * * * 60
Pere, village of.---------------------- - 102
Pelops, islands of ------ ^ = * * * * * * * * * ----- 139
Perseia, fountain --------------- -31–44–50
Perseus, monument of.----- ---------* -- 47
Pesopode, village of.------- ------------ 49
Phaedra, tomb of ---------------------- 120
Phallerini, village of ------------------ I 30
Phanari, village of.-------------------- 140
Philanorium------------------- ------- 133
Phlius -------------------- ---------- 22
Phoebean, ancient name of the Saronian marsh 137
Phoronean Hill ---------------------- 50
Phoroneus, tomb of-------------------- 59
Phrixus, river -------------------- ---- 82
Phytai, or Phyti, ruins of Heraeum--27---46---77
Pittheus, monument of.----------------- 118
Pityusa, island of --------- ---------95---125
Platani, inountain called---------------- 72
Platia, island of.----------------- ----- 95
Pogon, port of Troezen called ---------- 122
Polemocrates, temple of ---------------- 85
Polyandria, tumuli called --------- ----- 85
Polyphengos, mount, called-------------- 75
Pontinus, mount ---------------------- 8O
Pontinos, river called ------------------ 83
Poros, island called -------------------- 1 1 7
Poros, island of-------- ſº ºn tº m ºn m ſº sº º º 'º º m m ºn my I 35
Pool, Alcyonian -----, ---- ſº tº tº sº tº gº ------ 85
INDEX.
Page Page
Post horses -------------------------- 7 Route from Tolone to Nauplia ---------- 95.
Potamia ------------------------114---116 Nauplia to Lessa and Lykurio -- 96
Pottery, ancient ------------ tº Gº tº tºº sm ºn ºn tº º sm. 42 Lykurio to Iero-------------- 102
Pratum, town of---------------------- 197 Iero to Epidaurus------------ 1 10
Presents----------------------------- 10 Epidaurus to Troezen and Damala 1 14
Proetus, founder of Tiryns-------------- 64. | Troezen to Hermione -------- 122
Prona, hill called---------------------- 65 | Damala to Kastri------------ 123
Proserpine, temple of ------------------ 126 Hermione to Mases and Halice 132
Prosymna----------- sº º º ºs ºs = * * * * * * * * as 44---52 Mases to Didymi------------ 133
Psamatha ------- i. ſſ., ſº tº ſº ºwn tº ſº, ſº is tº º ſº º tº sº º sº ºm º ºs 59 Demala to Poros.------ dº nº sº sº º º 134.
Psiphean Sea ----------------- ------- 137 Troezen to Methana---------- 137
Methana to Epidaurus-------- 139
R. Epidaurus to Piada---------- 1 40
Rachani, village of.------------ tº E tº º ſº tº ºt 20 | Piada to Angelo-Kastro & Agiani 140
Rachos, olive tree so called -------------- 137 | Agiani to Corinth------------ 14]
Rate of travelling----------- * * * * * * * * * * - 13 | Rhetum, village of -------------------- 14, 1
Rocks, like masonry-------------------- 27 -
Robbers?----------------------------- I 3 S. *
Route from Corinth to Cleona------------- 19 | Sacadas, tomb of --------------- * : * : * > . . . . . . . . . ; 61
Cleonae to Tretum and Nemaea-- 21 | Sanalipsis, mount -------------------- 75
Cleona to Nemaea------------ 22 | Santon, tomb of a---------------------- 54
Nemaca toward Sicyon-------- 24 Sapyselaton, ancient name of Mount Arachne
Nemata to Mycense ---------- 25 | 51—98
Mycenae to Argos----------47, 48 || Scala tou Bey, descent called ------------ 8 I
Mycenae to Nauplia, by Barbitza Serapis, cell of.----------------------- 126
and Tiryns -------------- 50 Sicyon, plain of------------------------ 25
Tiryns to Nauplia---------- •= 53 | Sipeia, place so called ------------------ 58
Stymphalus to Agios Giorgios 70 | Skoino-chorio, village of ---------------- 86
Agios Giorgios to Argos.------ 75 Skoteini, village called------------------ 7 1
Argos to Tegea-------------- 78 || Solygia, village of.---------------------- 142
Argos to Tripolitsa ---------- 79 Sororo Potamo, brook called------------ 124.
Tegea by Steno to Nauplia---- 81 | Soukala, village of.------------------ - 124
Argos to Lerna and Mylae ---- 83 Specie, island of.-------------------- 95---166
Argos to Tiryns-------------- 84 || Sphaeria, island called ------------ ------ 135
Lerna to Hermae and Mount | Statue at Epidaurus-------------------- 163
Parnon ----- * ºn tº ºn ºn tº ſº ſº tº ºn as sº 85 | Steno, village of ------ tº sº, º an ºn ºn tº ºn ºn º ºs º- ºr * * * 81
Argos to Lyrceia and Orneae -- 80 | Sthenelus, tomb of ---------- --------- 61
Argos to Mantinea, 87. For cor- Strongylo, mountain called ----- dº º º sº, º ºs º ºs m. 25.
rection of this see Appendix. ºf Stymphalus, ruins of.----------- i. ſ. nº º ſº tº º 7 O
Argos to Nauplia------...---- 88 || Struthuntum, promontory of ----------- ... 133
Argos to Sparta ----------- - 159 Sun, temple of at Hermione.-------------- 126
Nauplia to Port Tolone.----- - 93 Syrnethus, monument of ---------------- 01
Zºº * *
4)
INDEX.
J. G. Barnard. Printer, Skinner Street, London.
Page Page
T. Troezen------ * * * * *m º ºs ºne ºn as sm ºr * * * * * * * * I 18–164
Talaus, sepulchre of.------ * * * * * * * * * * * * º ºr 60 Tsipiana, or Chipiana, village of, 88, & Appendix
Tanus, river-------------------------- 85 | Turniki, village, see Appendix------------ 171
Tatar, or Courier------ m me me ºn an as ºn sm am - - - * * * * 9 Tumuli, of the Argives-------------- ---- 85
Tegea------------------------------ - 78
Teledamus, tomb of.------------------- 34. V
Temenium ------------ tº ſº tº tº ºn tº º ºr 82---91—157 º
Temenos --------------- * * * * * * * * * * * * * 82 Vathi or Bathi
Tenea ---------------- tº ºr iºns tº tº ſº ºn tº * * * * me as 1 42 Venus, temples of, at Argos------- º ºn tº ºn tº mº mº 60
Thalamoi of the daughters of Proetus ----33–57 Acrean -------------- 120
Thearius Apollo, temple of, at Troezen.---- 121 Celestial ------------ 62
Theatre at Iero----------------- ------- 108 Kataskopia ------- --- 121
Theatre at Argos ---------------------- 69 the Observer---------- 119
Theatre, Nemean---------------------- 22 at Tenenos an am us ºn as m sº * * * 82 .
Themis, temple of ------ tº º dº sº º ºs ºn m ºn mº m 'm mº mº 104. at Epidaurus---------- I 12
Tholos, edifice called ------------------ 104 | at Iero -------------- 104
Thermisi ---------------------------- 166 at Hermione.--------- 127
Thornax, mountain anciently called ----- - 132 w Pontia and Limenia---- 127
Thyestes, sepulchre of.--------- -------- 47 esta, cell and altar of.---- as ºn ºn tº me in an ºm sº nº sº ºn m 127
Thyr f Vivares, port of ------ ºn ºne ºn mº m ºn tº sº ºn ------- 94.
hyrca, town o * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 85 Upsili, island of 5
Tiparenus---------------------------- 132 PS111, 1sland Of ------------ ---------- 9
Tiryns ---------------------- 54—154—156
Plan of -------------------- 55---153 W.
galleries--------------------- --- 154 Walls, specimens of, at Argos -------- ---- 148
Titthion, mountain called ----------- --- 105 Tiryns------------ I 52
Tou Pasias, village called---------------- I 38 I Mycenae ---------- 152
Trachea, village called ---------------- * | Well at Didymo ----------------- ----- 133
Trachis, pass called-------------- ------ I 14
Treasury of Atreus ---------------- ---- 29 X.
inner chamber of -------------- 31 | y,
Treasuries used as prisons -------------- 33 Xeropotamo, a name common to torrents-- 71
Treturn------------------------------ 21
name of.--------- tº gº tº ſº tº sº ºn sº ºn tº ºr sma º º 26 Z.
Tricrana, island of.------- jº º º m ºn tº sº ºn tº º sº º sº 125 Zachari, village of ----- mº m ms ºn ºn m ºn tº ſº ºn tº º ſº tº ſº. 26
Triaina-...-------- * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---- 158 Zacunia or Laconia------------ -------- 115
Tripoliza ----------------- sº º º ſº tº * * * * * * 81 || Zaracca, lake called ------ tº mº tº mit tº ºn tº º tº º gº º 70
Trochon, place called ------------------ 78 || Zyrie, mount, the ancient Cyllene-----...-- 70
THE END.
ERRATA.
P. 4, l. 1, for philosophy read history.
— 8, 1, 12, for piasters read piastres.
– 34, for sepulchre read sepulture.
— 42, — fountain read foundation.
— 45, – Cyclopians read Cyclopian.
–47, - synonimous read synonymous-
— 58, - the read there.
– 66, - does read do,
- 66, i. 16, for ou read or, *


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