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# I

A FLY ON THE WHEEL,
How I HELPED TO GOVERN INDIA.
BY
LIEUT.-COL. THOMAS H. LEWIN,
AUTHOR of “wild TRIBEs of THE souTH-WESTERN FRONTIER,”
“HANDBook of THE TIBETAN LANGUAGE,”
ETC. ETC. ETC.
L O N T) O N :
W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE,
PALL MALL. S.W.
1885.
(All rights rese rved.)
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
THE OATH . º e º ſº g - 4. e © From tispiece
MAP OF THE CHITTAGONG DISTRICT . º º te º * e 1
THE SLAUGHTER-House. AT CAwNPoRE & tº e - & g 8
NATIVE SoLDIER THRowN FROM THE PARAPET . o º º . 15
NANY SAHB's SERVANTs hanged s e e g - . 25
SONTHAL HARVEST DANCE . º * º & g e tº . 124
NoACOLLY PoEICE BOATs & 165
CHANDRAGUNA . tº 278
A. KUMI MAIDEN . te tº e º º º e e 305
SIRTHAY º tº º e tº - & . 433
MAP OF DEMAGREE º
A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER I.
LOOKING BACK.
1857–58.
I HAVE arrived at the midmost stage of life; and
now, before quitting the table-land of maturity and
striking down to the lower level of old age, I am
minded to look back, while I am still able to gaze at
the past, with vision undimmed by age or infirmity.
I come of old Kentish stock, who for three genera-
tions had sent sons to India ; and therefore it was a
natural start in life when one of my Indian uncles
obtained for me a cadetship in the East India Com-
pany's service, and I was in due course started out
with a dozen other youngsters, my college-mates from
Addiscombe, bound for Calcutta, on the 9th September
1857, the year of the Indian Mutiny.
We had heard rumours in England, before starting,
of insurrection in Bengal, but the disturbance was
thought to be local, and not of general importance ;
and after the final wrench from home ties, and the
l
2 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
quick ensuing superlative wretchedness of sea-sickness,
we reached the Mediterranean, our youthful minds
much elated with the sense of our own individuality,
and troubled only by insatiable appetites; sea and
sky, present and future, alike undimmed by any fleck
of cloud, any presage of evil omen.
At Malta, however, serious news awaited us, news
that struck home to our boyish hearts, and brought
us face to face with the stern realities of life and
death. The province of Bengal was in a flame of
revolt from end to end ; the entire Bengal army was
in open mutiny; and, what stirred us most, the batch
of cadets which had preceded us to Bengal by a few
months only, young fellows we had all known, and
with whom we had played cricket within the year—
they, our schoolfellows, had been surprised and mas-
sacred at Allahabad, as they sat at mess. The know-
ledge and fear of death as a thing possible to ourselves
had hitherto been unknown to us; but now it came
very near as we realised the dreadful scene. The
cheerful mess-table, with its lights, and white cloth
sparkling with silver and wine ; and then in a flash
the windows filled with the black threatening faces
and murderous eyes of the mutineers, as they sur-
rounded the mess-house, from which not one of the
poor lads escaped alive. The fun of our voyage was
gone. The glories and wonders of Alexandria and
Cairo; the crossing of the pathless desert sands,
strewn with skeletons of animals and shapeless masses
of rock, over which we jolted heavily in our mule-
drawn vans ; the dry burning heat' of the Red Sea
and the moist clinging warmth of the Indian Ocean
and Ceylon ; the strange new human creatures that
LOOKING BACK. 3
swarmed round the ship, importunate for alms, as
we stopped for coaling : all passed before our eyes
like a dream, as obstacles and delays in our now
tedious journey. The fever had seized us; the desire
to fight, the wish for vengeance was in our blood.
We wanted one thing only—to reach quickly the land
where our comrades and friends had so treacherously
been murdered.
It was a relief when at last the low, muddy banks
of the Hoogly came in view. The pilot climbed on
board, and we slowly steamed up the river and
dropped anchor off the City of Palaces. I even now
shudder to recall the chill feeling of loneliness and
home-sickness with which I sought the bare, cheerless
room assigned to me in the cadets’ quarters in Fort
William. Alone in a strange land; my fellow pas-
sengers had scattered and gone their respective ways
on landing; my fellow cadets even, had found friends
to meet them, while I went alone to the Fort Adju-
tant, to report my arrival, and inquire to what regi-
ment of the Bengal army I was likely to be posted.
“Army l—regiment l” was the reply. “There is
no Bengal army; it is all in revolt. You will be sent
off to the front at once, and perhaps attached to some
Queen’s regiment. Provide yourself with a camp-
bedstead and a chillumchee, and wait for orders.”
I saluted and left the presence of my superior
officer, deeply pondering as to the possible nature
and qualities of a “chillumchee,” but not venturing
to inquire further. However, I must obey orders;
so with some misgivings I entrusted myself to some
palanquin-bearers, who jogged off with me to the
bazaar, whence I returned triumphant, with my chil-
1 *
4 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
lumchee, or brass washing-basin, borne helmet-fashion
on the head of a dusky porter, who followed in the
wake of my novel conveyance. The bedstead I
did not purchase, grudging the expense out of my
slender purse. z
Next morning I learnt that I and four other
cadets were to proceed to Chinsurah, to join Her
Majesty's 34th Regiment, which was under orders
for Cawnpore. We were each allowed 150 lbs.
weight of luggage; and I ruefully parted with the
rest of my belongings, which I did not see again for
a year and a half.
On reaching Chinsurah and reporting myself to
the Adjutant of the 34th, I was posted to C company,
and the same day we were booked by railway to
Raneegunge, and marched to a standing camp. There,
two other cadets and myself were allotted an empty
tent, and, rolling ourselves up in our cloaks, we lay
down on the bare ground and slept profoundly.
From Raneegunge, I set off with a lieutenant and
fifteen men of the 34th Regiment, by horse-dák, in
wretched jolting vehicles. The order was given for
the men to load their rifles, and we pushed on
night and day, changing horses every ten miles. At
Benares we joined forces with a detachment of the
82nd Regiment, and, leaving our horse-dàks, we
proceeded in bullock-wagons.
I engaged a servant at Benares, who added much
to my comfort, and at Allahabad I had the satisfac-
tion of drawing my first pay—my last, too, for many
months—and invested promptly the greater part of
it in the purchase of a pony. -
I had found the slow, dusty progress of the bullock-
IOOKING BACK, 5
train most weary and monotonous, and one evening,
to beguile the tedium of the way, I rashly displaced
the driver of my wagon and determined to try my
hand at driving the quiet-looking beasts. There was
no driving-seat, the driver having to squat on the
pole to which the oxen were yoked. I seated myself
accordingly, and sought to apply the simple means I
had seen the driver use to increase our speed. It
looked so easy, to screw the tail round a bit and give
a gentle dig with the goad. I had no difficulty in
setting them going ; but, alas ! it was the old story
of the salt-mill over again. I had no power to stop
them. Away went the heavy wagon, swaying and
groaning in the ruts of the road. The lieutenant
from the wagon in front turned in astonishment to
see what had happened ; but I, luckless charioteer,
had enough to do clinging to the pole, where I with
difficulty kept my seat. The road lay along a steep
embankment, and, checked by the wagon in front,
down the slope my bullocks plunged, dragging me
and the wagon after them. Shouts filled the air as we
left the track, and I, thrown from my uneasy perch,
clung on for dear life underneath the pole, with the
great wheels thundering on either side of me, while
in front lay the deep precipitous chasm of a water-
course, in which we seemed doomed to end our
career. To my inexpressible relief, the beasts seemed
to object like myself to this conclusion, and wisely
stopped short on the brink, while I hastened to recall
the driver, and, much crestfallen, lay down meekly
inside the wagon, sore with kicks and bruises, and
fully convinced that I had no vocation for driving
bullocks.
6 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
The driver resumed his place, and we were soon
jogging along again on the right track, and with the
bullocks' bag of bran for a pillow, and all the wraps
I could muster to keep out the cold night air,
I made myself as comfortable as circumstances
allowed. It was all so strange and new. In the
dim light of the swinging oil-lamp I could see my
sword and revolver hanging to the wagon-tilt over
my head, along with the wood-pigeon which I had
shot just before dark, while at the far end of the
wagon, the dusky form of my servant squatted
motionless on my solitary portmanteau. Outside the
stars shone brightly, throwing a pale light on the
gloomy jungle and waving trees, which formed a
black wall on either side of our long train of wagons.
All was silent, save for the groaning of the heavy
lumbering vehicles, and the guttural sounds by which
the drivers cheered and urged on the patient oxen, or
an occasional order given among the soldiers who
guarded our train. So short a time it seemed since
I was in England, among the dear familiar faces ;
and now how changed, how strange | But it was
best not to encourage such thoughts, and, resolutely
knocking out the ashes of the pipe which had recalled
them, and, closing the heavy canvas curtain of the
cart, I betook myself to sleep.
When I awoke it was early morning, and the cart
was standing still. I pulled aside the curtain and
looked out.
The long line of dusty-tilted wagons had halted
in a quiet stretch of white sandy road; the drivers
were squatting together in groups, smoking and
warming themselves round a small fire which they had
1,00KING BACK. 7
lit from straw and wayside rubbish; while the great
white oxen, who had toiled so patiently through the
night, stood sleek and silent, munching their chaff.
All was quiet, strangely quiet, in fact ; for where
were all the soldiers ? I jumped out, buckling my
sword and revolver hastily round my waist, and
sought my comrades. We had halted near a group
of low whitewashed huts, built native-fashion, with
closed court-yard. At the main entrance stood the
stump of a large tree, round which our men were
grouped, their excited gestures and low voices
showing that something unusual had occurred. I
walked hastily towards a group of my brother
officers, who stood near the mouth of an old well.
“What is it 2 ” I asked. “Where are we ???
The answer startled me by the cold intensity of
its tone. “We are at Cawnpore, and this is the
Slaughter-house !”
It is twenty-six years now since I stood beside
that well, and saw the mass that lay down in the
darkness, which I knew to be the bodies of my
countrymen and women. Clothes and other rubbish
had been thrown down after the thin covering of
earth which the first relay of soldiers sent to relieve
Cawnpore had thrown over the poor bodies, and to
us it seemed that we saw the actual white-clothed
women and children who had been thrown into that
dark pit. The shock remains with me, a never-
to-be-forgotten horror.
The court-yard was about forty feet square, with
numerous small rooms opening off it. It was still
strewn with shreds of clothing, leaves of books, and
Some human hair. On the walls were splashes of
8 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
blood and marks of sword-cuts, many so low down
On the walls that they must have been aimed at little
children, or at poor crouching women shrinking from
the blows.
º
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“WE ARE AT CAWNPORE, AND THIS IS THE SLAUGHTER-House "
Is it possible to wipe out the memory of that fatal
15th of July 1857, when, with the sounds of the
British guns on their ears telling of help near at

LookING BACK. 9
hand, these hapless helpless ones were ruthlessly
slaughtered? Outside, the English soldiers anxiously
pressing on to help, fighting against fearful odds,
ten to one against them; inside, two butchers, Mahom-
medans by religion, told off to their ghastly work.
The doors were shut; two were enough against
those helpless, starving, unarmed people. Presently
one wretch came out to get a fresh sword, his
weapon being blunted, returning quickly to complete
his task. After another interval the blood-stained
butchers reappeared, carrying two wounded children,
leaving behind them no living thing. Shall these
two die also P Alas ! there is no mercy; and the
Nana's emissary, standing at the door, orders the
executioners to dash out their brains against the
old tree, so that not one may escape. The English
troops under General Havelock came too late. There
was no help for the dead.
The horror of this place laid hold on us all,
soldiers and officers, most of us newly arrived from
England. The men clustered together, swearing
deep oaths of vengeance against the whole race of
those who were guilty of such atrocities. I had
never before seen men stirred by strong passion, their
faces white and set, and their eyes gleaming with fierce
blood-eagerness, Who can wonder if the revenge
taken was stern and pity was scanty Inside the
slaughter-house, kicked into a dark corner, lay a
Bible (I have it beside me now), dirty and blood-
stained. In it was written the name Anthony
Dickson Home, and the words, “Read Psalm lvi.
J. E. H.” I turned to the Psalm and read, “And they
cried unto God, and there was none to help them.”
10 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Next morning I went to see General Wheeler's
entrenchment, where our folk made their first stand.
It was wonderful they had held out so long. The
place was literally riddled by shot and shell, and
had been ill-chosen for defence. Poor things poor
things | - .
We marched slowly on, and camped close to the
town of Cawnpore. Tents were provided for us by
the Commissariat department, and here we waited for
the rest of the regiment, which arrived rapidly in
small detachments.
Sir Colin Campbell, with the main army, had
pressed on to relieve the beleaguered garrison at
Lucknow, leaving General Windham, of Crimean
renown—“Redan Windham,” as he was called—at
Cawnpore, with a small but daily growing force, to
guard the bridge of boats over the Ganges, and main-
tain communications with Allahabad.
Windham's task would have been comparatively
easy as far as the rebels were concerned, as they were
fully occupied at Lucknow ; but he was threatened
in flank by a formidable foe—the native army of the
State of Gwalior, which sided against us, and, 10,000
strong, was now said to be on the point of attacking
our position at Cawnpore.
General Windham's force to oppose this attack
may have numbered, all told, some 1,500 men. It
was made up of small parties like that with which I
had arrived, drafts from the 34th, 82nd, and 88th
Regiments, and from the Rifle Brigade, which had
been pushed up from Allahabad as fast as possible.
There was also a small contingent of Madras troops,
under General Carthew, with four 9-pounder guns
1,OOKING BACK. 11
manned by Madrasees, and two 9-pounders with
English gunners. This small force was encamped
on the glacis of an entrenchment, or tète du pont,
which had been thrown up hurriedly on the river-
side to protect the bridge of boats.
On the 17th of November, General Windham
marched his whole force out and took up a fresh
position some few miles nearer Gwalior, where the
road crosses the Ganges canal. Here we remained
quiet until the 26th, when we fell in before daybreak
for the attack. We ate what was left from the last
night's rations, drank some hot tea, and then marched
in the dark across the canal bridge into the open
country beyond, not knowing where we were going
or what we were going to do, but with a growing
feeling that we should soon see fighting. We
marched along cheerily in the excitement of this
thought for some two miles, when the day began
to break, and the band was heard to play at the head
of the column.
“We shall be at 'em directly,” muttered the
weather-beaten captain who commanded my com-
pany. “The General would never play the music
were we not in sight of the enemy.”
Presently we halted, and “ the music ’’ marched
to the rear, and with the 88th Connaught Rangers
leading, on we marched again. Bang went a heavy
gun, and over our heads came the whizz of a round
shot, a greeting from the enemy. The details of
General Windham's engagement are well known.
What follows here is taken from my diary, and is
given as the purely personal experiences of a young
lad of eighteen, recording his first fight.
12 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
º
I felt my heart jump as the shot rushed past, and
watched my neighbours, tightening my waist-belt as
I saw them do. I recalled all that I had been told of
the sensations of others, and our old Major's dictum,
that “in going into battle we are all of us frightened,
but we don’t all of us show it,” so I resolved not to
show it. The Colonel now gave a loud command, in
obedience to which our left wing moved rapidly off
to the left. Bang went and ther gun. This time
they had got the right range, and the round shot
tore through our column, knocking over two or
three poor fellows. The cries of strong men in
agony are very dreadful to hear; but there was no
time to think, or to offer help.
“Extend into skirmishing order to the left l”
Away we went, extending our line, but at the
same time rushing on at the double, advancing on
our unseen foe. In front was a high bank, and, as
our long line of men clambered up and over it, a
small bugler-boy at my side fell forward.
“Hold up, my lad,” said I, stretching out my
hand to help him to climb.
Great God the boy was dead. Without a sign
or cry he had fallen on his face, and as I raised him
the blood welled forth from his mouth on to the green
earth. “Forward ' " was the cry, while the bullets
hissed through the air so close and quick that death
seemed certain. The flask at my side was smashed
by a ball, and men began to drop right and left as
we ran forward.
But now we saw our enemy. In front of us
stretched a broad Sandy plain, and some five hundred
yards off, on the further side, were hundreds of dark
LOOKING BACK. 13
men in red coats, looking like toy soldiers in the clear
distance, who ran hither and thither, with little puffs
of white smoke breaking out at intervals along their
line. It was a curious spectacle.
The noise of the musketry was tremendous. I
heard someone say that the enemy were retiring,
and still we pressed on. Suddenly there was a cry
of “Cavalry | cavalry | Form square ’’ and hur-
riedly our scattered cºmpanies formed themselves
into square, the front ranks kneeling with fixed
bayonets, while the men behind them kept up the
fire.
“Reserve your fire, men l’ shouted the Colonel;
and as he spoke, out of a field of high mustard or
Sugar-cane, I know not which, came a mass of horse-
men, urging their horses at full speed straight on to
the square. Surely, I thought, this means annihi-
lation.
“Stand firm, my lads !” came the Colonel's voice.
“Ready l’” Then, after a slight pause as the cavalry
neared us, “Fire | ?”
When the smoke cleared, there lay many men and
horses on the ground, and the rest were scattered
and flying right and left of us. Then on again,
advancing in skirmishing order, till we arrived tired
and breathless at a wall, where we were allowed a brief
respite. Some fifty or sixty of us stood behind the
wall, regaining our breath, and surveying ruefully the
ground on the other side, where for a few hundred
yards it was literally swept by three of the enemy's
guns, busily served, as we could see, under cover of
Some mud huts beyond. Clearly, those guns had to
be taken, for their fire, passing over our heads, raked
14 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
heavily the main body of the troops ; but our men
did not like the job.
“Here comes the Colonel,” said a man beside me;
and looking back, I saw Colonel Simpson of “ours”
on his grey horse crossing the plain. For a moment I
thought he was down, as a well-aimed round shot
fell right between his horse's legs, raising a cloud of
dust ; but on he rode safely, and was soon with the
rest of us under the wall. *The officers clustered
round for orders.
“Rally the men,” he said. “Those guns must be
taken, and there is no time to lose.”
Away went the officers down the line. Then with
a cheer and a long breath, off we went from our
friendly shelter into the iron hailstorm of grape-shot
and bullets. No matter who fell ; on, on with a
rush,_and the guns were ours
After this we got scattered. No one seemed to
know what was to be done next. I followed those
about me, and found myself in a village. A shot from
the houses killed one of our men.
“I see the beggar !” shouted a soldier, and the
house was quickly surrounded. There was a cry of
“Here he is ” answered by the yet fiercer demand
from the men outside, “Don’t kill him 1" and the poor
wretch was thrown from the parapet or roof of the
house on to the glittering bayonets fixed to receive
him. - -
“Damn it all, men, don’t be cowards !” shouted
the Adjutant. “Kill, but don’t torture.”
We now got into order to retreat on our old
quarters, whence we had set out in the early morning.
Weary, and thirsty, and exhausted by the heat, I
LOOKING BACK. 15
saw four or five men struggling for a mouthful of
muddy water in a roadside puddle.
Great talk had we young cadets over the day's
doings, as with infinite zest we fought our battle over
again. Chief among the incidents of the day was the
cavalry charge, and much did we admire the bravery
of the dusky officer who had led his men right up to
the muzzles of our guns, paying forfeit with his life.
º|
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“THE Poor wFETCH WAS THRow N FROM THE PARAPET.”
We reached our camp between four and five in the
afternoon, and at six o'clock I lay down in my clothes
dead tired, and thankful that it had not fallen to my
lot to go on picquet duty, as some of my less fortu-
nate comrades were required to do.
At six o'clock the next morning we were paraded,
and stood on our stiff, weary legs until ten o'clock,

16 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
waiting with piled arms while General Windham
reconnoitred the enemy's movements. Soon after
ten the sound of guns reached us as they attacked
our position, and the 88th and 82nd Regiments
moved off to the left, leaving us, the 34th, to hold
some mud houses, to skirmish to the front, and to try
and pick off some of the enemy's gunners. .
We left our camp standing, and I cast a lingering
look on the tent that contained all my worldly belong-
ings, which, alas ! I never saw again. The time went
on, and the grape and musketry fell thick among us,
not doing much harm, until at midday came the
order to retreat, and it gradually dawned upon us
that we were getting the worst of it. A rumour
spread that the Nana Sahib had joined the enemy
with 25,000 men, against which force we were power-
less. So we marched back through the deserted
streets of Cawnpore, catching a glimpse here and
there of some affrighted native scuttling away for
bare life, and reached the entrenchments as night
fell. A handful of biscuits and some rum and water
were served out for supper, and we slept on the ground
rolled up in our cloaks, each man at his post. I was
restless from an intense feeling of dirt and discomfort.
Never had I remained unwashed for so long a time ;
but why think of washing, with barely enough water
to drink?
In the early morning we were marched out by
companies, and piled arms under some trees just
beyond the glacis of the entrenchment. We were to
have another hard day, it was said. Very soon came
the command in a hoarse whisper, “Fall in Stand
to your arms l’ And off we marched, to occupy and
LOOKING BACK. 17
dispute the passage of the main roads leading to the
entrenchment. My regiment was stationed close by
the bridge over a small stream, beyond which lay
the church of Cawnpore—or, rather, its walls, for the
church had been plundered and wrecked during the
first defence under General Wheeler.
Company after company defiled right and left
along the bank, and we comprehended that the stream
was to be our line of defence, and this bridge the key
of the position. On the far side of the stream extended
a wide sandy plain, with no cover but the church
walls, and some mud huts, and clumps of trees at
about 800 yards' distance, among which we could see
figures moving. We were soon employed in making
a barricade across the bridge-way by means of broken
carts, with planks, railings, or whatever we could lay
our hands on. I and some others were carrying the
wheel of a cart to add to the obstruction, when whiz"
a round shot came into the midst of us, and we fell
about like a heap of wooden soldiers. I staggered to
my feet again, much surprised at finding myself alive,
and even more astonished that none of my comrades
were hurt. We had been knocked over by the rushing
wind of the shot, which must have passed right
through the midst of us. Among the distant trees
we could see the enemy's guns, which thenceforth
kept up a steady fire on our position, and we
Watched the round shot as sometimes, after striking
the ground, they came hopping towards us like lively
cricket-balls. - .
“Arrah! the playful little warmints they hops
about like St. Patrick's pig in a thunderstorm,”
quoth an Irishman who was sitting close by under
** *. 2
& “ſ -
18 . A FLY ON THE WHEEL,
cover of a mud wall; when crash came one of the
“varmints” through the wall, knocking him head
over heels, and breaking his fire-lock “all to
Smithereens,” as he expressed it, but without doing
him any further injury. The fire grew hotter as the
day wore on, and we on the bridge were ordered to
lie down, while two Madras guns were brought up to
return the fire, without much effect in checking that
of our opponents.
Towards four o'clock we began to get the worst of
it, and being largely out-numbered, our small force
was driven in on both flanks. The enemy now came
pouring down, and occupied the church on our left,
where they brought a gun to bear on the bridge at
close quarters, loading with grape, pushing the gun
out round the corner to fire, and drawing it back to
reload under cover. From the church, from the
houses, from every available cover, the fire concen-
trated on the bridge, while our men replied with
spirit, although we had many casualties. Three of
our subalterns were hit, one killed. The noise of the
firing, the shouts and cries, were terrible. The men,
so long exposed to this terrific fire, began to waver.
“They are surrounding us !” came the cry.
“Never mind, my boys | " cried the Colonel.
“We’ve got to keep this bridge, if we die for it !”
and he, standing up in the midst of the shower of
bullets, lit a cheroot as quietly as if he had been at
home. I admired that man, and he certainly gave
us new courage. The hardest sort of fighting is
to stand still and be shot at. One can fight or fire,
but to do nothing is a severe ordeal for nerve and
courage.
LOOKING BACK. 19
Our surgeon had established himself under cover
of a mud wall hard by, and was tending the wounded
as calmly as if he were in Netley Hospital. The
Brigadier, General Carthew, was brought in to have
his wound dressed, just as I was helping to carry one
of our poor fellows who had been badly hit. I ran
off to fetch water for him, glad to have anything
active to do, instead of waiting passively among the
bullets.
It was getting towards sundown when we got
orders to retire to the entrenchment. An English-
man does anything better than retreat, and when
the order to fall back was given, most of the men
ran for it; but they had held a difficult position
under heavy and deadly fire during the whole weary
day, and this disorderly retreat was covered by a
small party of officers, non-commissioned officers,
and a few of the best men. Fortunately, our oppo-
nents were not inclined for close quarters, and we all
reached the fort in safety. How any of us survived
that storm of death on the bridge is still a mystery to
me, and the feeling of finding myself alive and unhurt
that night was little short of ecstasy. In our regiment
alone we had three officers killed and eight wounded,
with a heavy list of killed and wounded among the
I(leIl. -
We had been thirty-six hours without food,
and we further learnt that our camp of the previous
day had been plundered and burnt, so for myself and
many others the clothes we stood in formed all our
possessions.
That night Sir Colin Campbell, with a few of his
staff officers, galloped across the bridge of boats
- 2 *
20 . A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
into the entrenchment. He had got news of our
disaster, and had hurried forward in advance of the
main body of the force, with which he had just re-
lieved the garrison of Lucknow. A hearty cheer we
gave him as he rode in, bringing with him the pro-
mise of succour, and reviving our drooping spirits
with fresh hope of victory.
On the 29th of November the enemy opened fire
on the bridge of boats with a battery of heavy guns;
but Sir Colin Campbell's horse artillery silenced them
from the Lucknow bank of the river, and soon the
van of the main army crossed the river to our en-
trenchment, bringing the ladies and children rescued
from Lucknow.
I went round to the hospital that evening to see
some of the wounded of my company, and hoping to
be of service. I found there a young officer of our
regiment, for whom I had felt a strong friendship.
He had been hit in the side, the ball passing through
the liver, and he lay there dying. He knew no one,
but tossed restlessly on the narrow hospital cot, while
his Madras servant sat at the foot crying, and flapping
away the flies in a helpless manner. Poor lad I he
was but eighteen, tall, dark, and handsome ; but
there was no help for him. I smoothed back his
hair and arranged his pillows, while he muttered
something about “Fix bayonets and come on l’”
As I left him, full of sorrow for his untimely fate, a
man on a neighbouring bed cried out to me, “For
God s sake, Sir, ask the doctor to do something for
me ! This is hell torment l”
I spoke to the doctor, who glanced hastily round.
“Oh, that fellow there. He 'll be dead in an hour
LOOKING BACK. - 21
or so. I can do nothing for him. He is shot through
the stomach, poor fellow, and must suffer dread-
fully.” -
Yet another fine young soldier close at hand lay
dying, shot through the chest. He was not suffering,
it seemed, yet knew he was going. As I stood behind
him, he said to the comrade who supported him,
“Give my love to my dear wife, Jack, and say”—
here he raised his arm—“say that I died for old
England, and I’d do the same again.”
I left the hospital full of sad thoughts. Evidently
men still could willingly die for their country, and
suffer gladly for her sake. It was strange to think
that only a few months before I had slept quietly in
my white college bed, while now I was thankful to
sleep on the bare ground, with a pistol for my pillow.
Four hours' sleep at a stretch was all I could take ; at
the expiration of this time it was my duty to visit our
sentries and see that all were on the alert. We lived,
for the most part, on hard biscuit and rum and water,
standing, marching, running, and fighting in the
broiling sun ; but by way of compensation, I had a
wonderful appetite and perfect health, enjoying the
mere fact of existence the more, perhaps, from the
uncertainty of life from day to day.
Our late opponents, the Gwalior Contingent, con-
sisted of four companies of artillery, two of cavalry,
and seven regiments of infantry, in all about seven
thousand men. To these must be added the soldiers
of the various native regiments which had mutinied
in and about Cawnpore, together with a considerable
auxiliary force furnished by the Rana of Jhansi, the
whole body, amounting to little short of twenty
22 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
thousand men, nominally under command of the
Nana Sahib, but actually directed by a much abler
soldier, Tantia Topee. . . . . *
To oppose this force, Sir Colin Campbell had five
thousand infantry, six hundred cavalry, and thirty-
five guns, and at the head of this little army he
issued forth from the entrenchments on the 6th of
December, attacked, and completely defeated them.
We who had been fighting under General Windham
were left behind to recuperate after our late hard-
ships, and it was with feelings of the profoundest
satisfaction that we saw our enemies routed. Our
regiment now moved out of the fort and took up
quarters in the Masonic Hall, a large building some
thirty feet high by a hundred and fifty long, where,
before these troubles “the Craft” had carried on their
mysteries. A large hole in the roof, made by a round
shot, afforded perhaps too much ventilation, for the
nights were cold; but after our recent hardships we
were more than content, and thought the accommo-
dation palatial.
. It was with truly thankful hearts that we fell in
for church parade on Christmas Day, and well do I
recall the cheerful strains of the band playing “Hark
to the merry Christchurch bells,” as the Colonel
walked through our open ranks making his inspec-
tion. The message of “Peace and good-will towards
men " was read to us by the white-robed clergyman
in the roofless church, whence, a short time previous,
the rebels had trained their guns on to the bridge,
and I gazed curiously on the blackened and shot-torn
walls of the building, which I had last seen filled
with the dusky, red-coated enemy, and sending forth
LOORING BACK. 23
volleys of fire and smoke. After the service, I, with
two or three more, went to the corner round which
they had slewed on us that accursed 9-pounder
gun. The marks of its wheels still showed plainly
on the ground.
A few days later I was officer in charge of the
guard when four natives were hanged. The gallows
was prepared for them close by the dreadful slaughter-
house, and they met their death calmly ; but it was
a terrible sight. This was the first time I had done
regular guard-duty, and I had hardly got settled
into my quarters in the guard-room, when two of
my men appeared to claim a “footing,” to drink
my health, which I had to pay out of my slender
purse.
We rested a fortnight at Cawnpore, recruiting our
strength, getting new clothes, and making ready for
a fresh start, and the end of January saw us on our
way to Lucknow, where the rebels still mustered in
great force. My regiment, the 34th, was directed
to occupy Bunnee, a village midway on the road
between Cawnpore and Lucknow, to furnish guards
for convoys of prisoners, and keep open Sir Colin's
communication with the rear.
Shortly after our arrival, great excitement was
created in our camp by the body of one of the men
being brought in dead, and horribly mutilated. He
had loitered behind to get water during the march,
and had been taken by the villagers and tortured to
death. This incident still further excited the
ferocity of our soldiers, and a number of the
swore to give no quarter to any native who sh
fall into their hands.


24 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Convoy after convoy arrived and was pushed
on to the Alumbagh, before Lucknow, bearing pro-
visions and siege materials to the main army. Some
of the bullock trains extended over three miles in
length. In one I counted fourteen hundred camels
and nine hundred carts. It seemed strange that so
long and so scantily-guarded a procession could pass
unmolested; but, save by an occasional and easily-
repelled raid of a few horsemen, no attempt was
made by the enemy to cut off our supplies.
Towards the end of February, Sir Colin Campbell,
having collected sufficient stores in the fortified camp
at the Alumbagh, proceeded to send out flying
columns to right and left, with a view to dispersing
the scattered parties of the enemy, and concentrating
the whole nest of hornets in Lucknow, where he
hoped to strike a final blow and end the cam-
paign.
The 34th Regiment was detailed to form part of one
of these columns under command of Sir Hope Grant,
consisting of two batteries of horse artillery, the
9th Lancers, a wing of the 7th Hussars, and the
38th and 53rd Regiments, in all about three thousand
men. We moved straight into the country, going
north-west, without regard to roads, our baggage
being carried by camels, crossing broad sandy plains,
or treading a wide path through fields of standing
COTI),
Our first day's march of twenty-five miles under
a broiling sun, was somewhat trying, and as on the
ºllowing day we did twenty-three more, it became
ent that we had some definite aim in view, and
not making a mere reconnaissance. Rumour



LOOKING BACK. 25
had it that we were in pursuit of the infamous Nana
Sahib, the cavalry having been sent forward, and
when at evening we reached the strongly fortified
town of Futtehpore, we found that rumour for once
was right.
The Nana narrowly escaped capture, having been
there the night before. We only succeeded in taking
his baggage, containing papers and valuable jewels,
and two of his confidential servants, but the
Fs
======s=s
* *: º såsås
=#s;
===sºsºs:
Ess= s:==
“HIS SERVANTs werE HANGED.”
villain himself escaped us. His servants were
hanged, and the fort blown up when we left next
morning.
The column now moved on by easy marches to-
wards Futtehghur, searching on the way any villages
where the insurgents could have found shelter, and
destroying defences or fortifications that might be
turned against us.










26 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
On one occasion, when we were searching for
rebels, I had a narrow escape. I went into a house
through a dark entry, where was piled a heap of
brushwood, over which I trod, passing to the court-
yard beyond. Finding the house empty, I returned
and idly prodded the brushwood with my sword
as I passed over it. To my amazement, the whole
mass uprose, and a sepoy came at me with fixed
bayonet. I parried with my sword, and firing my
revolver with my left hand, shot him through the
body. I silenced my remorse for so doing by the
reflection that it was only a question of his life or
mine. Ç
We met with but little resistance. At one place
only, the fortified village of Meahgunge, the enemy
mustered in force and made a stand. We took the
place, with a loss of only one killed and five wounded,
but the mutineers suffered severely, being cut up in
their retreat by our cavalry. r
Among the prisoners were found two who had in
their possession articles of European clothing. Our
men, in consequence, jumped at the conclusion that
these had been concerned in the late massacre at
Cawnpore, and got completely out of control, giving
vent to their pent-up feelings of revengful ferocity.
The officers, after trying vainly to bring the men to
order, had the prisoners, half dead, forcibly taken
from them by an armed guard.
After this we marched steadily back to Lucknow,
and rejoining the main army late in the day, after a
long and tedious march, attacked the rebels posted
in the gardens and houses near the Alumbagh. The
fighting was not at close quarters, and our skir-
f,OOKING BACK. . 27
mishers had no difficulty in driving the enemy before
them.
When our regiment at last halted and piled arms,
I saw the General and his staff riding towards a
large turreted house a short way off, and wishing to
see as much as possible of what was going on, I
followed. In front was a long high wall, and making
for a gap, I stood spell-bound by the sight which
broke upon my gaze.
We were standing on the summit of a hill, and
below, spread out like a panorama, lay the city of
Lucknow, and the army of the rebels. Far away,
perhaps a mile beyond the gardens and groves of
trees that filled the middle distance, glittered the
domes and palaces of the King of Oude. Nearer to
us, like a fringe to the city, were swarms of dusky
natives, dressed for the most part in white, working
like bees at the entrenchments, while here and there
the sharply-cut shadow of embrasures, or the muzzle
of a gun caught the eye. -
To our right rose the fantastic pile of the Martinière
College, thickly manned by red-coated sepoys. From
this college the ground rose with an unbroken slope
to the turreted house, from the roof of which the
General was surveying the position through his
glasses. The house was a pleasure-house belonging
to the King of Oude, and called by him “Dil-
khusha,” or Heart's Delight, in front of which our
men speedily began to throw up earthworks.
Far down the valley came a puff of white smoke,
followed immediately by the roar of a round shot,
which passed over my head and killed a horse
picqueted behind me—a visiting-card from our ad-
28 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
versaries on taking up our new position. At sunset
our regiment marched up to the rear of the Dil-
khusha to bivouac for the night. Some of the
officers' servants came up, and I looked anxiously
for mine, hoping he might bring with him a cloak
or some of my belongings. We had been fourteen
hours without food, and night fell and the stars
came out, and still no signs of rations, nor even the
shelter of my familiar tent. So with inward grumbles
I lay down on the stone steps of the Dilkhusha and
fell asleep.
“Oh blessed sleep !” as Sancho Panza says.
“God’s blessing on the man who invented sleep.
It fills the hungry, and covers the weary as with a
mantle.” But I was soon roused up.
“Eh—what ? A night attack 2 °
“No ; two tots of regimental rum.”
“Thanks, thanks, good Corporal ” and with one
gulp I swallowed the welcome draught, and with a
sigh of contentment sank back on my stony couch.
The morning found me full of cramp, but consider-
ably rested by my sound sleep. We now settled into
camp life, and the second siege of Lucknow com-
menced. There was plenty to do for all. For five
consecutive nights I was on duty, sometimes at the
Dilkhusha, sometimes on picquet over the artillery
park of siege guns. Such guns ! My head fitted
easily into a howitzer.
The enemy's round shot began to fall with un-
pleasant frequency into the camp. At night one
pitched some two feet from my tent, killing a native
servant who was asleep there. It is easy to write or
to read about round shot, but it is difficult to convey
LOOKING BACK. 29
the extreme sense of discomfort and uncertainty ex-
perienced when, lying dead tired on one's bed, one
hears a mass of iron, weighing eighteen pounds or
more, come hurtling through the air with a grim inde-
terminateness of destination. To sleep is difficult.
On the 9th of March the Martinière was taken by
assault. Our regiment did not take part in the
attack. Sir Colin told our Colonel, who was eager
to join, that no regiment better deserved a front
place, but that one regiment must remain to guard
the camp, and in view of the smallness of our
numbers, only four hundred strong, he was obliged
to detail us for this duty. So we looked on as
spectators at the attack, and a very pretty spectacle
it was.
When the order was given to advance, the 42nd
and 93rd Highlanders gave a cheer, sprang over the
entrenchments, and under a heavy fire went straight
at the enemy's works. With the Highlanders went
a Punjaub regiment, who raced them neck and neck,
and looked quite as fine fellows as the Scotsmen. As
they stormed the earthworks, the rebels abandoned
their first line of defence, but held very obstinately a
second line of entrenchment thrown up in rear of the
Martinière, till they were driven out at the point of
the bayonet, with heavy loss on both sides.
I was on inlying picquet, and ought, of course, to
have remained in camp ; but at eighteen years of age
curiosity is a powerful agent, and the excitement was
too much for me. I secretly saddled my old white
mare, and with the saice holding on by my stirrup,
I made for the Martinière, which had just been taken.
I rode as fast as possible over the open ground, pro-
30 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
voking a personal salute of a couple of round shot
from some attentive sepoy gunner, and, on reaching
the building, I left my horse with the saice, and
quickly made my way to the roof of the house, where,
from a high pinnacle or turret, I had a splendid view
of all that was going On.
Underneath my turret the roof formed a broad flat
terrace, and here was Sir Colin Campbell with his
staff, consulting maps, despatching orderlies, watching
and directing the fighting, field-glasses in hand. I
had my pinnacle to myself, as Sir Colin would come
no higher, the great altitude making him too giddy
to stand there. -
Below I could see the Highlanders slowly fighting
their way, driving the rebels from a number of mud
huts in front, while on the right the Punjaubees and
a company of one of the Highland regiments were
running as hard as they could go towards a very
strong earthwork, swarming with sepoys, and pro-
tected by two heavy guns. It was a nasty-looking
place, with a deep ditch in front, and flanked by
bastions. I saw the enemy crowding towards the
left of their work, to meet the attack of our main
column, and not seeming to see or suspect the
advance of the Punjaubees, who were hidden
from them by some trees and houses, and who
evidently were bent on a flank movement in sur-
prise.
For a time I lost sight of them; but soon they
came again in view on the extreme right, clambering
down into the ditch, and up the steep parapet on the
other side, quite unnoticed. Then, with a cheer, they
rushed down the inner face of the work, taking their
LOOKING BACK. 31
opponents unawares. There was some sharp hand to
hand fighting, and I saw men fall right and left; but
the rebels gave way, as our main column attacked the
face of the work, and were soon in full flight towards
the city.
I found now that my excitement and involuntary
shouts of jubilation at the success of our side had
drawn on me the unwished-for attention of the
Commander-in-Chief; so, with all possible speed, I
flew down the slender staircase, and across the little
bridge that led to my lofty perch, and, remounting
my nag, made the best of my way back to camp. As
I rode off I saw the tall form of a staff officer occu-
pying my late post of vantage, and congratulated
myself on escaping a wigging.
Next day the attack was pushed still further. The
Ghoorkas captured Banks’ Bungalow on the left,
while General Outram stormed and took the Se-
cunder Bagh, with a terrible slaughter of the
enemy.
Other and more able writers have written the
history of the Sepoy War, so that I shall confine
myself to relating such scenes as came under my
personal observation, or in which I took active
part.
Our regiment moved on with the rest of the army,
furnishing guards and doing auxiliary duty, but seeing
no actual fighting for the time being.
I had the misfortune to break my sword, and had
previously lost my revolver at Meahgunge, so that
when, on the 18th of March, our regiment was
warned to lead the assault on the Kaisa Bagh for
the next day, I found myself in a somewhat defence-
32 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
less condition. Fortunately for me, the Kaisa Bagh,
having been heavily shelled on the two previous days,
was taken by accident that very night. A small party
of our men effected an entrance through the wall of
an unguarded part of the enceinte, and, as our force
poured in through the breach, the enemy fled panic-
stricken, and on the next day commenced to evacuate
the city, taking with them their guns and stores.
Why they should have been permitted this honour-
able retreat was a mystery to the army, as we were
ready and able to cut off and destroy them, having
with us a splendid body of cavalry, and an enthusi-
astic spirit among all concerned.
For two or three days a great deal of private
looting went on, for, in spite of strict orders, it was
almost impossible to prevent the soldiers straying
into the city. I met one man carrying under his
arm what looked to my ignorant eyes like a French
ormolu clock, studded with bits of coloured glass,
which he had found in the private apartments of the
King of Oude. It turned out to be made of pure
gold, set with jewels of large value. Many stories
were told of lucky plunder, and some (both officers
and men) were rumoured to have realised large sums
by such fortunate finds. Soon, however, prize agents
were appointed, and the gates guarded day and night,
when plundering rapidly became more difficult and
much less profitable.
Our regiment was quartered in the Kaisa Bagh, a
pleasure-garden of the King of Oude, and here, the
day after the capture, was a scene of extraordinary
confusion and wanton destruction. It was a vast
square garden, walled all round, with handsome florid
LOOKING BACK. 33
gateways, or rather, gate-houses. Two sides of the
enclosure were flanked by gorgeous summer palaces,
containing saloons for music and dancing, while
throughout the grounds were scattered marble kiosks
and fountains of most elaborate workmanship.
In all parts of the gardens we found heaps of costly
things that had been destroyed by the rebels during
their occupation. Large plate-glass mirrors and
valuable china smashed to atoms ; silks and rich
Indian fabrics torn and burnt; guns and rifles, with
barrels bent and stocks broken ; furniture and pre-
cious knicknacks thrown about in disordered heaps.
The buildings had all been lavishly and magnificently
furnished with a strange medley of gorgeous Indian
products, tawdry French gilding, and ill-assorted
coloured prints and pictures. Everything, without
exception, had been injured or destroyed.
I took up my quarters in a small white marble
pavilion, at the corner of the great saloon in the
centre of the gardens. This saloon was also of white
marble, with gilded domes, hung round with a fringe
of small golden bells, which tinkled pleasantly in
the morning breeze, while the many-coloured tame
pigeons thronged round the fountain outside, learning
too late their altered condition as they were knocked
over by our hungry men. -
These gardens would have been a paradise to us,
but for the swarms of mosquitoes which devoured
us by night. Against this enemy we had no defence.
I took the first favourable opportunity of visiting
the Residency, which had been so heroically defended
in the first siege by its small English garrison, and
where had died “Henry Lawrence, who tried to do
3
34 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
his duty,” as his simple tomb-stone, erected later,
records. Here also my own cousin had lost his
life, gallantly serving his guns in the Cawnpore
battery, till, like many another brave fellow, he fell
at his post.
The walls of that Residency, pitted by balls and
shattered by cannon shot, are, to my mind, the
grandest monument of the supremacy of our race
that India furnishes.
Not for long were we permitted to sojourn in
kings' palaces at Lucknow. The end of the month
saw us once more on the road, with that delightful
ignorance of destination or intention, which struck
me throughout as one of the most curious features
of the campaign. -
Our start was made in a secret and sudden manner, ,
for we were aroused from our sleep at one in the
morning, and marched off straightway into the dark-
ness, as if on mighty mission bent. To my reluctant
arms were entrusted the Queen's colours—reluctant
because the honour involved walking for miles along
the dusty road, carrying a heavy weight, instead of
jogging along comfortably on my pony with my fellow
officers. However, there was no escape, and I toiled
along in the heat until midday, when a halt was
called, and I went off with my company on outlying
picquet duty. At sundown we were relieved by
another company, and I found a welcome shelter
for the night in a curtained palanquin, a certain
number of which accompanied each regiment for the
transport of sick and wounded.
The weather was growing very hot, the ther-
mometer often marking 100° in the shade, and
LOOKING BACK. 35
marching now became a great toil. The object of
our expedition, it transpired, was to succour some
of our countrymen who were shut up in the fort of
Azimghur, and sorely pressed by the rebels. We
had but one skirmish with the enemy during this
march, when we took two guns and killed over a
hundred of our now disorganized opponents. Our
own loss was slight, but a nephew of General Havelock
was shot in the affair.
While our main body thus advanced to Azimghur,
to attack and disperse the rebels, who, under Koer
Sing, had invested that place, three companies of
ours (of which mine was one), were detailed to
strengthen the garrison of Joumpore, and to take up
our quarters there for the hot weather.
We reached Jounpore at the beginning of May,
and were most hospitably received and entertained
at breakfast by two officers, who were in garrison at
the fort, with a detachment of Madras Infantry.
Only those who have been upon the war-path can
realise the luxurious feeling of physical comfort
which pervades the human frame, when, after months
of hardship and privation, one comes again in
contact with a real white-clothed, civilized, square
meal of well-cooked food, served in a comfortable
room, with pleasant hosts, and plenty of leisure to
discuss it. Not that we had fretted about the absence
of these comforts; but, as the proverb says, “The dog
in the kennel barks at the fleas; the dog who is a
hunting does not feel them.” -
We were assigned quarters in some empty bunga-
lows in the vicinity of the fort, and quickly subsided
into the ordinary humdrum life of an Indian station.
3 *
36 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
A new character now, however, appeared on the
scene—the Divisional Pay-master, and a hard master
he proved to be. We had been living, it seemed, upon
credit, and he now called upon us to square accounts.
To my credit I found had been placed a sum of
one hundred and eighty rupees for each month since
I reported myself in Calcutta ; but against me was a
heavy score for daily rations that I, too often, had
never seen, and a monthly charge of fifty rupees for
a Government tent, occupied by me certainly for not
half the time, and rarely, if ever, alone. There was
a further charge of forty-three rupees a month for
cart-hire for the conveyance of my modest kit ; so
that, after paying my servant, and counting up the
advances that I had from time to time received to
purchase clothes, horse, fire-arms, and the necessaries
of life, I found, not only that I had nothing to receive,
but that I was actually a considerable sum in debt to
Government.
The tent and transport charges now ceased, and I
had only to pay a monthly charge of fifteen rupees
to Government for the two rooms I occupied while
at Jounpore. But, on the other hand, I found it
necessary to employ and pay four servants, viz. a
khitmutgar, or table-servant, at ten rupees; a bearer,
or house-servant, at six rupees; and a saice and a
grass-cutter at four rupees each, besides four more
monthly to the regimental bheestee, or water-carrier;
so that my small income was barely sufficient for my
actual needs, even without the burden of debt to
start with.
It was now the middle of May, and the heat began
to be intense, the thermometer often reaching 104°
LOOKING BACK. 37
in the house. The men suffered terribly, perhaps
from the reaction after the hardships and excite-
ment of the campaign. But, from whatever cause,
the fact remains that, whereas, while in the field
the cases of sun-stroke were extremely rare,
now, in comfortable summer quarters, with nothing
to do, the men went down in numbers. In a
few weeks we lost fourteen by solar apoplexy
alone; a mysterious ailment, that slew swiftly and
silently, making no sign of its coming. A man
was hale and well in the morning and buried at
sundown.
There was but little to do. I rose daily at six
o'clock for parade, and, after inspection and drill,
mounted my pony and rode off to the station bath,
or “gossip corner,” as it was rightly termed. The
road was beautifully smooth, and bordered with
green grass, that invited a canter. A double
avenue of acacias cast their shadow on either side
of the way, the long feathery foliage swaying
gently in the morning breeze. Groups of natives
passed me, going towards the town ; fat, white-clad
attorneys and office clerks, who salaamed respectfully
to the Sahib ; or at times, wild-looking, dusty vil-
lagers from a distance, going to market, or bound
for the judge's court to plead their causes. The
judge-Sahib will not, however, be ready to dispense
justice at so early an hour ; he, like the rest of us,
is bound for the bath-house, the white walls of which
gleam pleasantly through the trees. Horses and
buggies, with attendant saices, congregate outside,
while their masters disport themselves within. Here,
in twelve feet of cool green water, are performed
38 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
manifold feats of agility ; diving through small cane
hoops, fetching up eggs from the gleaming white
floor of the bath, or riding tournaments in the water,
seated astride “mussocks,” or inflated goat-skins.
A cup of fragrant coffee and a cigar accompanied the
leisurely toilet; then home to breakfast before the air
grew too hot to be pleasant for the ride back. This
was perhaps the pleasantest episode in the twenty-four
hours. After breakfast, I worked hard with a moon-
shee, preparing for the rigorous examination in the
vernacular, which must be passed before I had any
chance of staff employ.
In June the rainy season set in (my first rains),
and struck me with all the charm of novelty. The
whole face of the country was changed as if by magic
in a single night. Every hollow became a pool, each ..."
rivulet widened into a stream, while the river itself
swelled and spread out into a tumbling, turbulent
lake of muddy water. One day the whole land
was brown and athirst, parched and dry, and every
living thing seemed gasping for water; then the
clouds gathered and spread, the flood-gates opened
with a sound of many waters, and in a few hours
the earth was green, and young shoots were springing,
while tiny frogs came hopping in every direction, and
beautiful scarlet insects showed themselves, glowing
in more than Solomon's glory.
The officers of the Madras regiment proved to be
very good fellows, and I especially liked their Cap-
tain, a man of the old East India Company’s service,
and not a Queen's officer. I listened open-eared to
all his stories, which he found pleasure in telling
to the “griffin,” as a new-comer was politely called.
LOOKING BACK. 39
Out in India, for want of rank distinctions, men
amuse themselves with making differences. “Il y a
des degrès en tout,” as the French judge observed,
when M. Dumas modestly said, “If I were not in
the city of Corneille, I should style myself ‘homme
de lettres.’” So the Queen’s regiments thought
themselves a degree above the Company's service,
while the Company's civil servants treated all military
folk “de haut en bas,” and the Bengal Presidency
considered itself in all things superior to Madras or
Bombay. So, even in a tiger story, my friend the
Captain prefaced his account by saying,
“My first tiger was a Madras tiger, so perhaps
you, being a Bengal officer, may view him with preju-
diced eyes; but when I was stationed in my own
Presidency, some years ago, one special Madras tiger
made himself the terror of the neighbourhood, de-
vouring goats, sheep, and cows, and even women
and children. I often beat about with my gun in
the vicinity, hoping to get a shot at him ; but he was
of a cautious nature, and I entirely failed to surprise
him. At last, one day, he fairly turned the tables and
surprised me. I was out by myself, carrying only a
single-barrelled rifle, hoping for a stray shot at a deer,
when, suddenly emerging from a patch of thick
jungle, I found myself standing on the border of a
Smooth grassy glade, in the centre of which lay the
tiger, close beside the carcass of a bullock he had
just slain. He was crouched beside his prey ; his
head raised, and his fierce eyes, glowing with
bright yellow light, steadily fixed upon me. I
stood stock still for a while, feeling considerably
taken aback, and reflecting rapidly what I had better
40 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
do. But the tiger thought more rapidly than I,
and before I had come to any conclusion, the great
beast rose and bounded off swiftly through the
tangled jungle. I confess to feeling much relieved,
for a single barrel single-handed was a heavy risk at
such close quarters. I walked across to where the
dead bullock lay, and was admiring the manner in
which the tiger had neatly severed the jugular vein,
when I heard a crackling in the bushes behind me.
I turned round, every sense on the alert, and sharp-
ened by the thrill of danger. I could see now a
head, now a gleam of yellow stripes. By Heaven
it was the tiger who was hunting me ! He was
walking round and round in a narrowing circle,
imprisoning me on the grass-plot where I stood, and
evidently was only waiting the moment when he could
take me unawares and make his spring. As he paced
round and round, I faced him, turning as he turned,
with my rifle ready for my one shot. I was sure I
could hit him ; but it was absolutely necessary for
my safety that my shot should also kill. My life or
his was on the venture. I do not know for how long
we turned in this way in silent watchfulness, perhaps
not for longer than five minutes; I cannot tell. To
me it seemed an eternity. But at last the brute stood
still and faced me, as if to consider what next. I felt
that he was gathering himself up to spring. It was
now or never; and, steadily raising my rifle, I aimed
between his flaming eyes and fired. The next moment
I rushed up to my fallen enemy, shouting wildly,
“Hurrah dead for a ducat dead l’ It was my
first tiger, or I should never have been so rash as to
approach even a dead tiger without pausing to reload.
f,OOKING BACK. 41
I was full of triumph and pride as I stood beside
him, measuring with my eye the length of his
body as he lay stretched on the ground. Judge
of my terror and amazement when my victim lifted
up his head, cast on me one terrible glance, and
then scampered off into the jungle. I must have
stunned him only with my bullet ; but I am not
ashamed to acknowledge that, as he made off on
one side, I hastily decamped in the opposite direc-
tion, and never stopped till I arrived safely at my
own quarters.”
This story thrilled my young ears, and I dreamt of
doughty deeds with wild beasts, and daily sought the
Captain's society, to learn more of his adventures by
flood and field, and all things belonging to an Indian
life.
I was just nineteen, and found serious cause for
anxiety in the tardy growth of my moustache; for
what should I say to the little sister at home, who
wrote, “I suspect you are a hero now, and will soon
come home and envelop dear mother thickly in a
maze of whisker and moustaches.”
Jounpore was in the centre of an indigo district.
The planters were hospitable fellows, and I paid a
pleasant visit to one whose acquaintance I had made
at a little race-meeting which we got up at the close
of the rains. I rode over one Saturday, after the
afternoon parade, and reached Bukshepore, some eight
miles distant, about sundown. I found the house
pleasantly situated in a flat, well-timbered country,
and my new friend at the door awaiting my arrival.
Inside, things had a strange aspect, the doors and
windows all loop-holed, and most of the openings
42 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
built up breast-high with unburnt bricks and mud ;
but the dinner was good, and the state of the house
was explained by my host when dinner gave place to
brandy-pani and cheroots.
“At this time last year,” said he, “I was living
here quietly enough with two friends—planters like
myself—thinking more of our indigo than of the
military difficulties of the Bengal officials. The
papers reached us, and we read one morning of
disturbances at Benares, as we sat in the verandah
after breakfast smoking a cigar before going to work.
Benares was not so far off, and we speculated
vaguely if the movement would spread to our part
of the country. As luck would have it, I strolled
round to the back of the house to get a light for my
cigar, and was coming leisurely back, when my eye
was caught by a dust and a glitter in the distance.
I called my friends to come quickly, and in a few
moments we made out that the grove was full of
soldiers, and that they were advancing towards the
house. On they came in their scarlet coats, deploying
into skirmishing order as they gained the open ground.
They were the mutineers from Benares, on their way
to join Koer Sing. There was no time to lose. With
one accord we rushed to the stables, clapped saddles on
our horses, and rode off just as the sepoys opened fire.
They continued banging away at our retreating forms,
and we never drew bridle till we were well out of
range. We then paused for a while, and looked rue-
fully back at the house, where we had breakfasted so
peacefully an hour since. I had just had up a lot of
new furniture from Calcutta, together with wine and
stores of European provisions, and I had left four
1,OOKING BACK. 43
thousand rupees in my cash-box. Now we saw the
red-coats walking about in the verandah, where we
so lately had sat smoking our cigars, and as we
watched, a curl of smoke puffed out of my bedroom
window, and we knew the work of destruction had
begun. Hard lines, was it not ?”
I went over my friend's factory the next day, and
was duly instructed in the art of indigo-making, which
seemed simple enough. What struck me most was
the store-room, an immense warehouse filled with
cakes of indigo three or four inches square, looking
for all the world like Windsor soap. The brown
coating is caused by some exudation which takes
place in the drying process, hiding the rich purple
colour beneath the efflorescence.
On the 1st of October we left Jounpore to join the
head-quarters at Azimghur, where a small brigade
was forming under the command of our Colonel, to
sweep up the scattered embers of the rebellion in
that part of the country. My planter friend gave
me a small old pall tent, which I had patched up
into serviceable condition, and which rendered me
independent of the Government tentage, and, being
absolutely my own, gave me privacy.
On reaching Azimghur, we found the small force
all ready and eager to start ; so, being joined the
next day by the Jath Horse, some four hundred
strong, we set forth on our travels once again. For
the next few weeks my journal contains simply
records of marching and countermarching, destroying
forts, dispersing or preventing any collection of armed
men, but nothing of interest. The rebellion was
practically dead.
44 A FT.Y ON THE WHEEL.
Many of the village strongholds that we visited
might have been troublesome, had they been well
defended. One place, called Tandah, struck me as
very original in its fortification. It was built in a
square, with bastions at the corners, the walls of sun-
baked mud, some twenty feet high by twenty-four
feet thick. The interior was filled with a dense
thicket of thorny bamboo, impossible to penetrate
save by one hidden tortuous path leading to the
central stronghold, a masonry keep, well loop-holed,
and surrounded by a ditch fifteen feet deep.
A large comet was visible each night on this march
from Azimghur into Oude, looking grandly beautiful
against the clear dark blue of the sky. Before we
started I heard that I had been posted as a Lieutenant
to the 31st Native Infantry, and was to join as soon
as practicable. This regiment was one of the few
corps which had remained faithful to their colours.
It was stationed at Saugor, in Bundlecund, far away
in Central India. Our Colonel, however, held out no
hope of my being allowed to join before the end of
the year. *rs. “
On the 2nd of November we held a solemn full-
dress parade, when the Queen's proclamation of
amnesty to the rebels was read, and the assumption
of the direct sovereignty of India was proclaimed.
A royal salute was fired, and three cheers given.
The Indian Mutiny was at an end, and good old
“John Company” was no more.
45
CHAPTER II.
CENTRAL INDIA.
1859.
THE beginning of the year 1859 saw me on my way
to join my own regiment, the 31st Bengal Native
Infantry. .*
Ibade adieu to many kind friends and comrades
in Her Majesty's 34th Regiment at Fyzabad, to which
city our wanderings had finally led us, and took my
way alone with my servants to Futtehpore, where I
fell in with a detachment of the 31st, which had come
there on treasure escort, and was halting for a time
before returning to Saugor.
On my way I visited Cawnpore, where we had
passed through such stirring scenes. Even in so
short a time the place had greatly changed. The
house of the massacre had been demolished, the well
filled up, and a tablet was being prepared to the me-
mory of the unfortunate ones who lay buried there.
I revisited with the greatest interest the old posi-
tions, and identified the places where we had fought
—the bridge which we had held all day under that
tremendous fire, and the Masonic Hall in which we
46 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
found such comfortable quarters after our hardships.
The hole in the roof, through which the morning sun
used to stream in and awaken me, had been repaired.
The wall near the bridge, where the surgeon had
tended his wounded, had been pulled down. Even
the friendly tree which had sheltered me from the
fierce hail of bullets was felled ; but I patted his
stump with grateful feelings, and cut off a chip as a
remembrance of that day.
On the 13th of January 1859, our detachment
marched for Saugor. Some commissariat doolies, or
palanquins, accompanied the party, and I occasion-
ally varied the tedium of the journey by a ride in one
of them. The bearers kept up a strange monotonous
chant as they carried me along, which may be trans-
lated thus—
Who is this we carry here P Hinda ka tinda |
A Sahib very big, we fear. Hinda ka tinda |
Alack he is a heavy one; weighing very many stone.
Surely ’tis an elephant. Hinda ka tinda |
Let us drop him in the mud, drop him with a heavy thud.
Oh but he'd be angry then, and would beat us all, my men.
Come then, let us trot along; run along, jump along;
Singing merrily our song, Hinda ka tinda! Hinda ka tinda
On the march we met a Sikh regiment, who were
going to our late quarters at Futtehpore, and I was
most kindly entertained by the officers, after the
hospitable custom of the country. The Sikhs were
extremely fine-bodied and handsome men. Many of
them wore polished circlets of steel, sharp-edged,
around which their many-folded turbans were twisted,
and when at Sundown the men were amusing them.
selves with games in the cool of the evening, I learnt
CENTRAL INDIA. 47
H-y
how these were used. The sharp-edged disc was
thrown quoit-fashion, skimming through the air, and
at a distance of two hundred yards these men planted
their discs very accurately in a tree trunk. The missile
in its flight took first a slight upward curve, and then
swooped down with a slant upon the object aimed at.
A deadly weapon indeed to descend upon an unwary
head ' Afterwards a war-dance was performed, to
the music of drums and a sort of clarionet, the sound
of the latter instrument closely resembling that of
the Highland bag-pipes. The dance was executed
with great animation, time and rhythm being well
marked, and the effect was enhanced by the dancers
occasionally breaking out into a rough martial chorus,
clashing their swords the while. As I gazed on this
strange scene—the circle of Orientals, in loose flowing
robes, with their long dark hair and hooked noses—
my imagination ran back to the old Jewish history,
and I seemed to see the Israelites on their jour-
ney through the desert, under their great captain,
Moses.
We passed through Banda on January 18th. M 2
the magistrate in charge, like many another, had nar-
rowly escaped on the outbreak of the Mutiny. When
the storm burst, he was the only European left in
Banda, the other residents having already sought
refuge in Futtehpore. The Nawab of Banda, al-
though at heart in sympathy with the mutineers, yet
preserved to the last an appearance of loyalty.
M had been warned that a rising was immi-
ment, and went to the Nawab to exhort him to use
all possible influence to quiet the people. Even
as they sat talking, there reached them a murmur
48 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
from the town without, swelling into a shout as the
tumult came nearer. A dead silence fell in the room,
and on looking up M saw that the Nawab was
smiling. He knew then that his only hope lay in
prompt action; so, drawing his revolver, he seized the
Nawab by the collar and placed the muzzle against
his forehead.
“Is a carriage likely to be soon ready for me to
depart 2 ” he asked quietly.
“Yes, yes, Sahib ; one is now ready,” vociferated
the affrighted attendants.
“Then we will go at once.” - -
Without relaxing his grasp, they emerged from
the palace, and the immense mob outside hushed
their clamour, in terror for the life of their Nawab,
and in amazement at the daring of this solitary
Englishman. -
“Now,” said M to the Nawab, “tell them
that if I hear a hoot or an insult, or if any man's
hand is raised against me, that moment will be your
last !”
The Nawab entered the carriage with him, and
they drove off, no one daring to interfere. At twelve
miles from the city, M had a horse waiting for
him in case of a sudden emergency ; so here he
left the Nawab, politely thanking him for the
pleasure of his company, and rode off unharmed to
Futtehpore. •
On the 25th we halted at Chutterpore, and in the
afternoon, as I was strolling round with my gun,
hoping for a wild duck or any small addition to our
scanty larder, I found myself in immediate proximity
to a sort of parliament or general assembly of the
CENTRAL INDIA. 49
largest and most human-like monkeys I had ever
beheld. There were at least two hundred of them,
great “lungoors,” some quite four feet high, the jetty
black of their faces enhanced by a fringe of snowy
whisker. With sparkling vivacious eyes, black hands
and feet, and long sweeping black tails, they made
an imposing spectacle. I walked slowly towards them
as they sat under a group of trees, expecting them to
decamp on my near approach. None of them stirred,
however, or showed any sign of fear. I then shouted
and threw a stone amongst them, but at this they
only began to gibber and show their gleaming white
teeth at me. I thought it, therefore, better and more
polite, not to say more politic, to take my departure
without further disturbance, and accordingly I left
the council to their deliberations.
The road from Chutterpore rose steadily as we
pursued our way. We were gradually ascending to
the central table-land of Greater India. Such a road
as it was, strewn with boulders, varying from the size
of a sheep to that of a man's fist, and so steep that it
was a wonder to see how the patient bullocks dragged
their loads over it.
On gaining the plateau at the top of the pass,
the nature of the country was quite changed
from that which we had left behind us. We now
traversed wide flat plains thickly overstrewn with
boulders, and bounded on either hand by low hills,
showing darkly blue in the evening distance. The
rocks and stones were clothed with a beautiful sort
of lichen which lent a general warm purple hue to the
foreground, while the broad disc of the setting sun
deepened all the tints, until the country seemed to glow
4
50 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
blood-red. As our long line wound along to the
camping ground the lines rang in my ears—
Rest, rest, for ever rest, spread over brow and breast,
Our face is towards the West—the purple land.
By the beginning of February, I had settled down
at Saugor, with my regiment, one of the two Bengal
native regiments which remained loyal during the
Mutiny. When the rebellion broke out at Saugor, the
31st, although a Poorbea regiment of the same stamp as
the rest, turned out to a man and beat the mutineers
out of the station. The explanation of this curious
fact could not be attributed to any special influence
of their English officers, for as good, and better, had
been murdered by the natives under their command,
giving their lives in the vain attempt to maintain the
allegiance of their men. The secret lay, I fancy, in
the exceptional ability of the two senior native officers,
men of the bluest Hindu blood, true Brahmins, and
to their influence over the regiment the loyalty of the
men was mainly due. The regiment was almost
entirely composed of high-caste Hindus, and only
those who have lived among these people can realise
the power caste has over them, especially when
combined with force of character. -
Sewbakus Awusty, one of these two native officers
(who afterwards became aide-de-camp to the Governor-
General), was subadar-major of the regiment, and
the other officer, Ramdeen Tewary, who was his
closest friend, was senior jemadar of the regiment.
Both, mentally, were strong men, who had the courage
Df their opinions, and were formed to influence their
fellows. It was through my subsequent friendship
with both these men that I was able to gain a closer
CENTRAL INDIA, 51
insight into the springs of native character, and also
to attain a much higher proficiency in, and familiarity
with, the language, than I could otherwise have
hoped for. Circumstances threw me greatly into
their society, and Ramdeen Tewary initiated me into
all the mysteries of Indian wrestling, club play, and
gymnastics.
Of the English officers of the corps, none specially
commanded my respect or admiration. The two
seniors were old Indians of the most pronounced
type, steeped in that atmosphere of moral Oriental
enervation which consumed so many of the previous
generation in India; cognizant of only the worst side
of native character; fussy, luxurious, and weak.
One really great officer the regiment had possessed
—Henry Norman ; but he had quickly emancipated
himself from the weary monotony of regimental life,
and had been translated to the happy hunting grounds
of Staff employ, whither all energy and talent in
India inevitably tended.
The Adjutant was a high-minded gentlemanly
soldier ; and if the loyalty of the regiment had de-
pended on him, he would have implicitly believed in
the fidelity of his men, in spite of all evidence to the
contrary, and would have been shot down at his post,
as many a brave fellow was in those days.
I found the routine of regimental life very dull
work after the late stirring and eventful campaign,
and particularly resented being put to learn my drill
all over again, standing in the ranks firelock in hand,
with a Brahmin on either side of me. This was
sufficiently mortifying to one who had commanded
and drilled a full company of Europeans, but the
4 *
52 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
most unbearable part to me was that my rank-fellows
thought it necessary to eat largely before encounter-
ing the fatigues of the parade-ground, and in the
heat of martial exercise, they literally stank of garlic
to such a degree, that my shuddering and unregenerate
nature almost sank under the appalling effluvium.
Part of my duty was to take charge occasionally
of the fort guard. This fort was a most picturesque
place, situated on the banks of a large lake, the waters
of which laved its walls. On one hand, the shores
were closely covered by a crowd of Hindu temples
with gilded pinnacles and long white stairways graded
to the water’s edge. Beyond these lay the native
town, the roof-lines broken here and there by
groups of trees, feathery palms, and shining, long-
leaved bananas, becoming gradually lost in a long
stretch of purple moorland, which was bounded on
the horizon by a range of low jungle-clad hills.
Looking down from the high windows of the fort
into the clear lake, I could see great turtles the size
of a small dining-table, with here and there a green-
brown alligator, disporting themselves in the water.
Morning and evening and at noon, or at any other
time or season when it pleased or amused the
priests, there came from the temples of the gods
all manner of strange sounds—clanging of many
cymbals, the clashing of bells, or the scream of the
conch-shell trumpet by which evil spirits were af-
frighted ; truly a noisy worship, and not the con-
templative “cultus” one associates with the great
name of Brahma.
Shortly after my arrival the bachelors of the station
gave a ball, at which, of course, I attended—my first
CENTRAL INDIA. 53
ball since leaving England. I had hitherto associated
the word “ball” with an entertainment in which a
large number of pretty young girls played the chief
part, and men were in the minority. Here the
dancing men, or men who fain would have danced,
abounded, but the ladies were, for the most part,
matrons no longer young, and the two spinsters of
the station were so deeply engaged, that a youngster
like myself had no chance of a turn. The Brigadier-
General commanding at Saugor was himself an old
bachelor, and quite an original in his way. He headed
the ball-committee, and was enthusiastic in promoting
amusements of all sorts. His anger was great against
the advocates of temperance, and one day at mess he
burst out fiercely at an officer who ventured to sug-
gest that for men in the army, subject to the Indian
climate, total abstinence even might be advantageous,
“Pooh, pooh, my good Sir. God bless me ! a glass
of good sherry, Sir where's the harm in a glass of
good sherry P” Then warming to his subject, he took
a higher flight. “A glass of really good sherry,
Sir, why it brightens the eye, -er—er, it—er lightens
the heart, and makes a man look well in the eyes of
his mistress!”
The Brigadier was pleased to issue an order that
no officer should appear in any place of public resort
save in uniform, and this decree caused much grum-
bling and many attempts were made to evade it. One
evening, at the Band-stand, where the usual evening
gossip was going on, under cover of the strains of the
regimental band, the Brigadier was present, and on
the alert to see if any disregarded his orders. It was
a warm evening, and his eye soon caught sight of an
54 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
individual dressed in the thin black alpaca coat which
takes the place of broadcloth in India. Moved by
an uneasy conscience, this person abandoned the pro-
menade and hurried down a bye-way to avoid the
chief's eagle glance. Away went the Brigadier to
his Brigade-Major, and on getting within hailing
distance, vociferated, “Gully Gully! take care, Sir!
have a care, Sir! my God, Sir! there 's an alpa-a-a-ca
about !” .
Good old Brigadier, peace be to his memory !
Many a good game of racquets have I played with
him, and many a round oath has rolled harmlessly
about my ears when I played badly.
My turn as officer of the fort guard used to come
round pretty frequently. The duty was solitary
enough, but I did not dislike it on that account. I
used to make up my bundle and march off with my
bull terrier “Grabby” into our temporary exile.
I utilised the enforced leisure thus afforded by
studying the language, in which I daily gained greater
proficiency. When evening came, Grabby roused
himself to remind me that it was time to amuse him
a little, and as the sun sank in the west, off we went :
past the guard-room filled with lounging soldiers ;
past the great heaps of shot and shell, stored-up
munitions of war, which set one wondering when and
under what circumstances those quiet-looking black
balls would take wings of fire and smoke, and speed
forth on their errands of death; past the old fortified
gateway, whose ancient magnificence recalled the
days of the forgotten Indian Rajahs, whose castles we
now occupy with our men and guns; past the native
sentinel who saluted stiffly, and so on to the native
CENTRAL INDIA. 55
town, and down the narrow street which skirted the
lake. -
In the doorways of the squalid mud houses, each
streaked on the lintel with sacred red paint, men sat
smoking the hubble-bubble, while here and there a
woman, with a lean dusky child astride on her hip,
would shrink back and draw her scarlet “doputta.”
over her face as I passed by. Sometimes I would
encounter a line of commissariat bullocks conveying
grain up to the fort, and experienced much difficulty
in inducing Grabby to pass these horned monsters; or
great, red, and terrible pariah dogs would pounce
forth as if to make a meal of my terrier, and I had
to come to the rescue with a well-aimed kick or two,
while the natives gazed in tranquil amazement at the
activity of the “sahib.”
My boatman would usually be found smoking
peacefully in the bosom of his family. When I
appeared the family fled in every direction, as if I
were a wild beast, while the man approached me
with a lowly Salaam, and led the way to a dangerous-
looking long dug-out canoe, in which he paddled out
to fetch my English boat, lying moored at a little dis-
tance in the lake. On one occasion, while seated on
the low parapet of the ghaut, awaiting his return,
my attention was arrested by the proceedings of a
strange-looking person who was employed in crawling
on his hands and knees around a small shrine close
by. This devotee was clothed in dirty saffron-coloured
garments, and being likewise adorned with a thick
coat of white ashes, streaked here and there with
Vermilion, he had somewhat the appearance of a
clown at a circus.
56 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
“O reverend one, how many times are you going
round P’’
“Five hundred, Sahib.”
“Why are you performing this rite ”
“On account of my great sins. Mohabir be
merciful to me !” Here he nearly tumbled over
Grabby, who, much perturbed at these unusual pro-
ceedings, was investigating his legs.
The shrine was a mean-looking little building,
containing an image of the elephant-headed god,
Ganesha, or as the people here call it, Mohabir.
Both the image and the shrine were plentifully be-
smeared with vermilion, which looked unpleasantly
like fresh blood.
When my boat at length arrived, after a slight
demonstration of unwillingness on Grabby's part, we
would take our places and slowly pull away from the
shore out into the glassy stillness of the deep lake.
From the native town the cry of the Muezzin could
be heard as the twilight closed in, calling from the
Mohammedan mosque, “Great is God . To prayer |
To prayer l’’. And quickly following, as if the Hindu
deities were jealous of this invocation, came an in-
fernal clamour of clashing brazen cymbals, booming
of gongs, braying of conch-shell trumpets, and
bellowing of horns, proclaiming that in these temples
also, men sought for and worshipped “the unknown
od.”
g Early in the month of March 1859, intelligence
was received that the rebel chief, Tantia Topee,
commanding the remnants of our old enemies, the
Gwalior Contingent, had been driven southward, and
was in the Saugor district at Rathghur, some thirty
CENTRAL INDIA. 57
miles distant. Our Brigadier accordingly marched
out with all the men he could muster, and I accom-
panied him, in command of a detachment of the 31st
Native Infantry.
Our first march was a hurried and long one, the
Brigadier's object being to surprise the rebels before
they could get notice of his approach. Oh, how tired
I was on that march I walking until my blistered
feet compelled me to mount my pony; then falling
asleep as I rode along, and waking with a start and
a frenzied clutch at the mane, in the very act of
tumbling off.
Towards midnight we halted for a short time, and
flinging our wearied limbs on the hard but friendly
bosom of mother earth, we took literally forty winks,
rousing up to repeat the march, the halt, and the hasty
doze, till the early dawn showed in the east, and we
halted to camp. -
As might have been anticipated in this wonderful
country, where whispered rumour flies like the tele-
graph, the rebels got wind of our approach, so our
thirty miles' march was of no avail; but we were up
and away before dawn the next morning, and while
it was yet dark we found ourselves on the banks of
a river. My pony not being sure-footed, I led him
through, wading bare-foot, and cutting myself a good
deal with the sharp stones of the river-bed. It was a
Strange scene. Against the dim sky-line moved the
mighty silhouettes of a line of elephants carrying the
tents, while, in the stream below, the wagon-drivers
made terrific hubbub in getting their beasts through
the dark water. Then, as the dawn broke, I saw the
long scarlet line of our irregular cavalry, like a
58 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
brilliant-coloured snake pushing its sinuous way
through the green fields ahead of the column.
As an officer commanding a detachment, I found
myself during this expedition far higher in the social
scale than I was wont to be. Hitherto in my cam-
paigning I had been accustomed to regard Brigadiers
and Brigade-Majors as bright particular stars, far
above my humble subaltern sphere; but here, thanks
to my command, and also to the kind-heartedness of
the Brigadier, I messed with the head-quarters' staff,
and found them all very genial and pleasant.
The officers of the Queen's regiment which ac-
companied the expedition gave themselves great airs,
not associating with the rest of us, nor even inviting
the Brigadier himself to their mess, because, forsooth,
we were “Company’s” men. I had already met
with this sort of feeling during the siege of Lucknow,
and then, as on this occasion, it struck me as remark-
able, seeing that the officers of both services are drawn
from the same class of men in England, and receive
precisely the same sort of education. -
Our vain pursuit of Tantia Topee and his band
lasted over a week, we marching as hard as we
could go, and daily expecting to come up with
them. I do not myself think we had ever any
chance of overtaking them, on account of the long
train of baggage and ammunition-carts which accom-
panied us, and the slow pace of the bullocks which
drew both carts and guns. The British soldier,
moreover, no matter what the urgency of the expe-
dition, must be fed on wheaten bread, with rations
of beef and rum, all of which had to be carried
about with us; while the enemy marched without
CENTRAL INDIA. 59
luggage or impedimenta, save what each man could
carry on his back, trusting for their food to the
country they might be in. Further, about half their
number were mounted on ponies, and went ride and
tie with their comrades, so that our heavy lumbering
pursuit amounted almost to a joke.
At last, Tantia Topee was reported to be encamped
on the top of a hill, from which vantage ground
he quietly watched our movements. We halted
about eighteen miles from his camping-ground, and
report said that a combined movement with General
Napier on the other side of the hill was in course
of projection. Of course the heads of affairs only
knew what was doing, and we waited in patient
ignorance till we were warned for a night's march
on the 11th of March.
Having had my dinner, and seen that all was in
readiness for a start, I lay down to sleep while I
might. I was wakened by my orderly. The moon
Was shining brightly overhead, gleaming white on the
long lines of the men as they fell into rank, and con-
trasting strangely with the red glare of the camp-
fires, which always blaze up brightly just before a
start, in a final conflagration of odds and ends. This
Was to be the grand combination movement ; but this
also, like our manifold previous detours, was fruitless.
We marched thirty-two miles, only to find that our
foe had again escaped us, and I sincerely wished he
might feel as tired as we did.
After this effort, the Brigadier left the bullock-
guns in the fort at Kirwai, and I and my detachment
Were left behind to guard them, while the column
moved off again on their wild-goose chase.
60 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
I now solaced myself with sport, and was fairly
successful in shooting some of the antelopes which
abounded in the vicinity. The “kala harin,” or black
buck, is a beautiful creature, with a white belly, and
head, neck, legs and back of a rich dark brown,
shading into black. On his head he carries proudly
two spiral annulated horns, attaining in some instances
to a length of twenty-six inches. The doe is smaller,
without horns, and lighter, a sort of reddish fawn-
colour, shading into white underneath. They are
hunted either in the usual method by stalking, when
there is any sort of cover, or the hunter makes his
approach by lying down flat in a native cart, of
which they do not seem apprehensive. There is
also a third method, which I preferred personally,
which is to ride round the herd on a steady pony,
in ever-narrowing circles, till within reach of a
hundred yards shot. At the sound of the first shot
they bound with one accord all four feet in the air,
and then rush off so fast into the hazy distance that
a second shot produces little or no effect.
When the Brigadier finally relinquished the pur-
suit of Tantia Topee, we returned to Saugor, and I
shortly afterwards successfully passed the first, or
colloquial, examination in Hindustani. I found no
difficulty in this, as for months past I had been in
the habit of talking to every native I could meet,
and had acquired considerable fluency of expression.
In April my regiment changed its quarters to
Calpee, while I was detailed with two companies on
detachment duty to Hamirpore, parting from the
main body at Chutterpore. I marched off in all the
dignity of my first independent command, and halted
CENTRAL INDIA, 61
the detachment at a comparatively early hour that
evening, as the weather was sultry and unsettled,
and my Jemadar, Ramdeen Tewary (the fine fellow
of whom I have already spoken as keeping the men
true in the Mutiny), opined that we ought to make
ready for the coming “tuphan,” or tempest. It was
oppressively hot, not a breath of air was stirring ; but
clouds were gathering ominously on the horizon,
heralding the coming storm.
We hurriedly pitched the tents, driving in the
pegs as firmly as possible, and cutting trenches out-
side to carry off the rain and prevent the men's
bedding being flooded; for of course all slept on the
ground. The earth from the trenches was banked
up against the sides of the tents to keep out the
wind. In my own little tent, whither I repaired
after seeing my men all settled, I found that extra
precautions had been taken to render all secure.
The tent-ropes were tied to bushes or boughs of
trees, and these had been buried about a foot under
ground. This, my servant explained to me, was
much safer than to trust to tent-pegs in a storm ; for
if there was much rain the pegs became loosened, and
were liable to be drawn out by the strain of the wind,
while with the ropes thus bushed it would take an
elephant to draw them.
I just looked round my little habitation to see that
all was snug—my gun safely tied to the tent-pole,
and my boxes raised by big stones under the corhers,
to guard them from the night attacks of the all-
devouring white ants—and then I went out again,
with a vague feeling of impending disaster.
The spectacle without was grand but ominous.
62 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
From the north-west a canopy of dark indigo-
coloured clouds, shot here and there with red-brown
réflets, was rapidly approaching us, mounting higher
and higher in the heavens. There was still no wind,
and no living thing was to be seen moving, save one
stray crow, which was hurriedly and uneasily seeking
shelter. Presently there was a slight rustling in
the tree-tops, and my cheek was fanned as with the
breath from a furnace. But how shall I describe
what followed P A mighty wall, hundreds of feet
high, of dark brown dust, extending right and left
as far as eye could see, advanced upon us. It
impressed one with an indescribable feeling of help-
lessness and terror. Darker and darker grew the
air, though one could still see the bright sun shining
overhead ; it chilled one’s blood to think that we
must enter and be submerged by that advancing
gloom. With a mighty roar, as of floods let loose,
the tempest was upon us. I stood fascinated. The
tall trees bowed down as the fury of the storm-wind
touched them, the air was filled with thick dust,
with leaves, sticks, small stones, and even branches
wrenched from the living trees. My bearer seized
me by the arm. “Come in, Sahib; come inside the
tent. It is not good to look out on the tempest; it
might anger the evil spirits that walk therein if
they saw you watching them.”
A darkness that might be felt, and that no lamp
could illumine, shrouded our camp. The wind
roared and yelled. It was a hurricane. My little
tent stood bravely; but soon cries of distress reached
me from the men's quarters, and darting out from my
shelter into the hurly-burly, I found that one of the
CENTRAL INDIA. 63
tents had been blown away. It was not possible to
do anything while the storm lasted, so all hurriedly
sought refuge in the still standing tent and waited
till the fury of the tempest should be spent. Before
very long a steady gale replaced the violence of the
hurricane, and a heavy rain fell, accompanied by
thunder and lightning; then this too passed, and the
air became delightfully cool; the sun showed again in
glory setting in the west, leaving behind him a sur-
passingly grand pageant of piled-up beds of orange
and golden clouds with fiery edges too bright to look
upon, and scattered wreathes of rosy red with streaks
of amber and pale green sky between, fading into a
tender pale primrose, as the stars came out, like silver
spangles in the dark blue overhead. The thoughts
of all now joyfully turned towards dinner. Damages
were soon repaired, fires lighted, pots put on to boil,
peacocks began to cry in the jungles, and partridges
to call to each other in the fields, every bird and
insect fell to making a joyful noise, for the storm that
was over and gone. I sat down at my tent-door to
enjoy a pipe, with the feeling of comfort which
follows the relief from violence, when Jemadar Ram-
deen Tewary stepped up to me with a very grave
face, and saluting, said, “Sahib, the cholera is in our
camp!”
A sad night followed, wrestling against a worse foe
than the tempest. First one poor fellow and then
another was stricken by the dire disease, and before
morning two lay dead. We did all that could be
done for them, applying mustard poultices and hot
fomentations, and giving doses of opium and ginger,
Having no doctor with us, I felt keenly the respo



64 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
bility, as all came to me for advice and assistance.
But no human aid was of any avail against the
terrible disease.
Early the next morning as I was taking a few
moments’ rest after the troubled night, I was roused
by a deputation from my men. I had intended halt-
ing during the day where we were, to burn or bury
the dead, but the men had been frightened by the
events of the previous night, and insisted that the
cholera demon had ridden into our camp on the wings
of the storm, and unless we moved our camp forthwith
we were all dead men.
Putting aside the question of the demon (although
Ramentour Panday averred that he had himself seen
the evil one ride into our camp on a white pony,
scattering ashes, just when the tent was blown down)
—putting aside this difficult question, I made no ob-
jection to an immediate start, as we should thus no
doubt run less risk of further infection. By midday
all was ready, and we moved on, a crestfallen company,
bearing our dead with us.
We halted for the night in a grove of trees in the
vicinity of a large village. I strictly forbade any
communication with the villagers for twenty-four
hours, until we saw if any fresh cases would occur.
Here the bodies of our dead comrades were duly
burnt, and their obsequies performed by men of their
own caste, I, of course, not interfering in any way
with their religious ceremonies.
As no further sickness showed itself, I ventured to
accept an invitation to dinner, sent me in due form by
the Thannadar of the village. I was at first doubtful
Nat rank of life was indicated by the word “Than-



CENTRAL INDIA. 65
nadar,” and whether it would be consistent with my
dignity to accept his invitation; but curiosity, and the
wish to add to my stock of information in regard to
native life and manners, prevailed, and I went.
My host's name was Muhammed Syud Khan, of
Bareilly, in Rohilcund. He received me at the gate
of his dwelling, and conducted me inside with many
demonstrations of polite welcome, to which I re-
sponded as far as my limited acquaintance with the
forms of Eastern etiquette would permit.
He then led me by the hand to a raised dais at the
further end of a long low room, where were spread a
rich carpet and some cushions. Here I was seated,
and supplied with a “gurgurie" or water pipe, while
a small tray of sweetmeats was handed round.
As we waited for dinner, my host, by way of show-
ing me his importance, his zeal, or his ability, busied
himself with hearing and deciding several small cases
of larceny and assault. Then a report was made to
him about a woman who had fallen down a well, and
it seemed doubtful whether it was an accident or a
case of suicide. I listened attentively, but being
ignorant of the civil administration of the country I
preserved a judicious silence, and smoked my “hubble-
bubble” with all possible gravity.
Presently the dinner was served, and as it came in
on a succession of small plates, each borne by a sepa-
rate servitor, the operation was imposingly lengthy.
There were pullaos, curries of various sorts, fresh
chutney, kabobs, fruit, and half a score of other
dishes—all very nice. I was much disappointed that
my host requested me with all politeness to eat, but
did not himself sit down to eat with me. He smiled,
5
66 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
bowed, expressed himself honoured by my desire, but
would, however, content himself with the pleasure of
attending to my wants.
I had been warned that it would be well to take
with me my customary beverage, and had accordingly
gone provided with a bottle of beer and my large
pewter mug. All my proceedings had been closely
observed by a crowd of retainers, who remained at
the lower end of the apartment during the meal, and
the interest culminated when I quaffed a deep draught
from my glittering tankard, and suppressed murmurs
of “Wagh' wagh I’’ ran through the room. The
only strong drinks known by the lower orders
are our English spirits and a coarse strong spirit
which they distil from rice, and I doubt not but that
they imagined I had poured down my throat a quart
of raw alcohol, hence the murmurs of admiration at
the strength of the “foreign devil’s ” head
After dinner was over, the “Tehsildar ’’ or Govern-
ment revenue collector, and the “Moonsiff’’ or Small
Cause Court judge, dropped in, and were introduced
to me in due form. The conversation turned chiefly
on the strange manners and customs of the English.
I was asked, “Do the English eat kite's flesh, or
camels, or monkeys P” and “Do the gentlemen
of the Queen's household ride sideways on their
horses?” -
I explained that our little island did not possess
kites, camels, or monkeys, but with regard to the
equitation of Her Majesty's household I failed to
convince them. - -
“Why,” said the Moonsiff, who was evidently re-
garded as a great authority on all matters of etiquette,
CENTRAL INDIA. 67
“is it not true that the Queen herself rides side-
ways?”
I admitted that this was so.
“Then,” said he, conclusively, “ of course the
Emirs must do so also ; to do otherwise would be
indeed indelicate.” -
After a time a couple of nautch girls were ushered
in and commenced dancing and singing before
us, and their monotonous current of song flowed
on interminably, until in very weariness I took
leave of my host, and giving a small present to
the dancers, I sought the quiet seclusion of my
tent.
It is a common thing among these people for a
nautch to go on for twelve or fourteen hours at
a stretch—one girl relieving another. The spectators
sit, or rather squat, round, placidly chewing betel-
nut and smoking for hours together, with apparently
endless satisfaction, although to European taste both
the singing and dancing of these girls is not only
uninteresting but even disgusting.
I could not help thinking, as I took leave of my
polite host and his smiling companions, how different
would have been my reception among them a few
months back, during the Mutiny, when, as I after-
wards learnt, a poor English fugitive had been hacked
to pieces close to this very village, and his naked and
mutilated body dragged through the streets. Now
we bowed and smiled at each other, I with my knife
and pistol under my garments, and my orderly, Ram
Gholam, close by with his sword ; for, as he had said
On Setting out, “One can never be too careful in
dealing with Mussulmen.” It was this mutual distrust
5 *
68 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and suspicion of the various races in India which
enabled us to conquer in the Mutiny. Had all com-
bined against us, the English rule must have been
annihilated.
The native opinion of Englishmen has been thus
summarized. They regard us as an unclean people
who eat cow and pig, and whose common beverages
are intoxicants; as a species of curious devil, gifted
with much brute courage and some human percep-
tions of an elementary nature, such as the love of
justice, the power of making money, and the like—-
creatures not altogether evil but most unaccountable,
whose presence in India must be endured as an
ordinance of Providence or a scourge of Fate.
I was awakened early on the morning after the
dinner with the Thannadar by the preparations for
our last day's march into Hamirpur. There was the
familiar sound of the men striking tents, and the
strange grumbling gurgle of the camels protesting
against their loads.
The camel is, I think, of all domestic animals the
most offensive. It is ugly to look upon, it is full of
strange fierce noises, its odour is foetid, and it has,
moreover, a fiendish trick of spitting in the face of
any person objectionable to it. As a beast of burden
it is only valuable on dry and Sandy ground, for if
driven loaded on wet or slippery places, its great
cushioned feet fly sprawling from under it, and it lies
prostrate and helpless.
I rose reluctantly and dressed. The faint morning
light scarcely showed in the glare of the camp-fires,
round which stood the men, belted and buttoned for
the march. I swallowed a hasty cup of tea, the
CENTRAL INDIA. 69
bugle sounded, and by evening we were settled into
our new quarters at Hamirpur.
I found myself the occupant of one-seventh part
of a large tumble-down bungalow, the other tenants
being officers of a detachment of Her Majesty's
48th Regiment and of the half-battery of artillery,
which, with my men, made up the garrison of the
place.
My new comrades soon introduced me to the plea-
sures of the station, foremost among which was the
bathing in the river Betwa. We rode off on our ponies,
five white-faced men among the crowd of dusky fel-
low-creatures, who scowled or salaamed according to
their mood as we passed through the crowded bazaar,
where the merchants spread their wares—cloth and
grain and heaps of golden green melons. I looked
with interest at one Alexander (Ram Jan) the copper-
Smith, who with his apprentices was clinking away
vigorously, hammering into shape an image of the
great goddess Kali. A little further on, a man,
plentifully sprinkled over with white ashes, sat on the
ground in the midst of an array of brass pots, squat-
ting before a pot-bellied image of “Maha Dev,” the
great god, clanging away with two cymbals in an
ecstacy of devotion.
We plunged into the cool green river as the sun
threw its level setting beams into our eyes. What
a delight it was, like a shoal of young porpoises, to
wallow in the clear water, diving, floating, lying
on our backs, looking up into the far-off blue sky,
with here and there a fleecy speck of floating cloud—
then a long breath and down, down, into pellucid
river depths, to open your eyes and look around,
70 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
like Schiller's diver! The most noticeable subaque-
ous feature that I was able to discern was my own
legs looming large and white in the dark-green
beneathness. Ah! what was that P A dark mass
twines around my leg. Horror! I strike up to the
surface with quick convulsive strokes, mindful of
alligators, to find nothing worse than a yard or two
of river weed round my ankle. Then, dressing
quietly, we walked our ponies home, calling by the
way at the canteen to take a glass of beer and drink
to the health of our good queen Wic., who provided
so well for her soldiers in the far East.
This season of rest and recuperation at Hamirpur
lasted for only one month, by the end of which time
I was again under marching orders in pursuit of one
Bajawul Singh, a rebel leader.
My detachment numbered fifty tried soldiers, and
in addition to these, Captain S , who commanded
as senior officer, had with him about two hundred of
a raw police levy. S- was a very Scotch man,
and a good fellow into the bargain. He had served
for ten years but was still Lieutenant, being only
Captain by courtesy. -
Our first march was to Bewar, a dreary place,
where the heat was so intense that I felt quite glad
we had no thermometer wherewith to measure our
discomfort. -
We next halted at Raat, and here I was occupied
in resting after the march, when S burst into
my tent, exclaiming, “They have come !”
“Who have come 2 " I replied, testily, for flesh is
weak, and I was hungry and tired.
“Why, Bajawul Singh and all his men, about a
CENTRAL INDIA. 71
thousand strong. They have been driven by our
troops from the other side, and are now within fifteen
miles of us. What is more, we must attack them
to-night, before they learn the smallness of our
force.”
We started in pursuit once more, but the fifteen
miles proved misleading information. We marched
all night and halted in the early morning near a vil-
lage, where we hoped to gain more exact tidings
of the enemy's whereabouts.
Presently a scout came in to report that Bajawul
Singh had actually been close by, but that on hearing
of our proximity he had hastily decamped.
The manner in which S-- paid his scouts struck
me as original and characteristic. If any man brought
in a really valuable and reliable piece of intelligence,
a large bag of rupees was placed before him, into
which he was allowed to thrust one hand and take
for his reward as many rupees as he could clutch,
literally a handful of silver. It was amusing to
watch the diverse expressions of countenance with
which the men approached the bag. Some pounced
upon it greedily ; others came up with an off-hand
don't-care manner; and others again would seem
bashful and shy at this novel manner of payment.
On the night of the 13th of June a note came
from the officer commanding a detachment of Madras
troops at Joorum, twenty miles off, saying that the
enemy were close by, at a place called Bagora.
“Weel,” said S , relapsing into broad Scotch in
his excitement, “A'm no a mon o’ mony worrds, but
a think we’ve just trapped these tods the noo!”
I was extremely glad that there seemed some
72 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
chance of a successful termination to our hitherto
fruitless expedition; but my ardour was somewhat
cooled on finding that we must start instanter, it
being then 8 o'clock P.M., and the rain falling in
torrentS.
“Never say die, my lad,” said S.––. “Three
things in India kill a man, a hot sun, a hot supper,
and a love trouble. We have none of these to contend
with, so let's be off!”
Down went the tents, and down came the rain.
In half an hour's time we were wet to the skin, plod-
ding on through the mud and the darkness, but more
than ever determined to put an end to the author of
our woes—the iniquitous Bajawul Singh.
I rode my pony, as he was clever at avoiding the
cracks and holes which made this part of the country
dangerous in the dark. We marched on wearily till
2 o'clock in the morning, when the men became so
discontented that S-- began seriously to think of
halting and letting them camp.
Accordingly, we piled arms, while a horseman was
sent to Joorum asking the officer commanding there
for news. We were all glad of a rest, and I curled
myself up in my cloak, under a tree, and was soon
sound asleep.
“Sahib, Sahib, the Captain Sahib sends his salaam,
and he is going to move on.” Thus spoke my saice,
shaking me by the arm, and I arose wet and aching.
The grey dawn was streaking the sky as we prepared
to start after our two hours' rest.
“Here,” said S , handing me an open letter,
“was I not right to hurry up?”
The letter was from Joorum, and stated that not
CENTRAL fMDIA. 73
*
only were the rebels close by, but that they were
making themselves comfortable, building huts, and
cooking their food. This it was clear could not be
allowed. What I must we go wet and supperless
while the accursed Bajawul Singh had a hot meal
and a dry pillow 7
As we moved on the rain ceased, and S--
pointed out to me the hill at Bagora where the enemy
were encamped, and, sure enough, two or three small
columns of blue smoke were rising straight up in the
still morning air, showing that our foes were even
then preparing that breakfast of the enjoyment of
which we hoped to deprive them. We reached
Joorum at seven in the morning, and found there a
company of the Madras Rifles and a detachment of
Madras Cavalry.
A council of war was held, and our course of action
speedily determined. Then, a swallowing of scalding
cups of tea, accompanied by some knobs of hard
biscuit, and with a hasty buckling on of revolvers
we were off again. .
I led the advance with my men, having the guide
fastened to me by a rope. The cavalry were to make
a detour right and left to take the enemy in flank.
Our guide seemed cool and composed enough in his
post of danger, for the leading man of a column is
pretty sure to be knocked over by the first volley.
He walked quietly in front of me, scrutinizing the
path and kicking the stones as he went. Presently,
as we entered a thick overhanging jungle, he stopped,
and pointed out the fresh footprint of a man who, he
said, must have just gone in front of us, running.
Running meant bearing tidings of our coming, so
74 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
there was evidently no time to lose, and we too pushed
on at the double, and in a few moments firing began
on both sides, we advancing as we fired, and the
enemy retiring as fast as possible.
On we went, running and panting, up precipitous
rocky paths, through the beds of watercourses,
scratched and torn by the thorns of cane and bamboo,
bleeding and bruised from heavy falls ; but with all
our haste we found on reaching their main position
nothing but their deserted fires, not even their
dinners had been left behind |
We had killed two of their rear-guard and,
happily, lost none of our men. -
We returned to Joorum in the afternoon. The Ma-
drasees, both officers and men, were much exhausted;
but S-- and I, with our Bengal party, prided our-
selves on showing no fatigue, although I may confess
that I felt well nigh extenuated, and would have
given all my worldly goods for a bottle of beer.
There was, I need hardly say, no beer in that thirsty
land. All supplies were finished, and at the rate at
which we moved about there seemed small chance of
replenishing our stock of luxuries, for we seemed
daily to get further and further from civilization.
We did not abandon our pursuit of the rebels,
but, co-operating with the Divisiónal Police at
Alipura, dispersed the band. The Police Com-
mandant, with a party of his men, succeeded in
cutting off from the rest of his companions a hand-
somely mounted and armed horseman, who, finding
himself isolated, leaped his horse into a clump of
brushwood on some broken ground difficult of access,
and holding his long silver-mounted matchlock in
CENTRAL INDIA. 75
one hand so as to guard his left side, and with his
sword in his right, he struck an attitude, and called
after his flying comrades, “What, brothers! will you
desert me 2 Come back l come back l and we will
make these dogs of Feringhis eat dirt l’” He called
in vain, poor fellow, and as he could not well be
taken, he had to be shot as he stood. This man was
a brother of Bajawul Singh, and his arms, sword,
matchlock, and dagger were very handsomely orna-
mented.
His death completed the discomfiture of the band,
some of whom joined the following of a higher class
of leader, one Desput Singh, a very popular outlaw, a
sort of Robin Hood among these people. Desput was
descended from the great Raja, Chutter Saal (founder
of the Bundlecund dynasty), and had quarrelled with
the British Government, before the Mutiny broke
out, on some question of his own independence,
claiming the power of life and death over his people.
He confined his depredations to the rich, befriending
the poor, robbing only rich usurers, tax collectors,
and unpopular Rajas; so that he had the sympathy
and protection of all the country folk, and was alto-
gether a more formidable antagonist than Bajawul
Singh, who was only a vulgar freebooter.
I was now sent with my men to Jeitpur, where
there was a Government Treasury, in charge of which
I found a Bengal civilian, who was much relieved
by the advent of military protection. He had been
living for some time past in a highly-fortified condi-
tion, prepared, if necessary, to stand a siege. He
inhabited the Treasury, and was surrounded day
and night by a cordon of matchlock-men whom he
76 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
entertained at his own expense. He habitually
carried a short thick cudgel attached to his wrist by
a cord, so that when he came to shake hands with
me he had to disengage himself, with much difficulty
and labour, from his stick. -
While we were at Jeitpur I had a brush with
Desput Singh, who had encamped on a hill not far
off, called the Black Mountain. My friend the Assis-
tant Magistrate produced his maps, and we marked
out a bee-line to take through the jungle, as by
experience I had found all roads and paths were
watched. We kept the attack a profound secret up
to the moment of starting, only sending a letter to
the officer commanding a Madras regiment at Pipera,
on the other side of the hill, to be ready to intercept
them in case we drove them down his way.
We made a good march and reached the place at
dawn. They fired a volley at us over a rough breast-
work of stone, which had been thrown up at the
entrance of their camp ; but we climbed this defence,
killing or dispersing the defenders. We captured some
men and horses and a quantity of provisions in the
camp ; but their legs were fleeter than ours, and after
a few hours of ineffectual pursuit we abandoned the
chase, and returned to Jeitpur.
I learnt subsequently that the Madras detachment
had never stirred from Pipera, and further, that the
rebels had taken the exact road I had indicated in
sending information of our attack. Desput's band
numbered five hundred strong. I kept for myself
one of the horses we had taken ; the rest of the
booty was sold, and the proceeds divided among
the men.
CENTRAL INDIA, 77
In July I was relieved at Jeitpur by a company
of the Shahjehanpur levy, commanded by a Sikh
gentleman, holding what was at that time, for a
native, the unique position of Captain in our army.
His name was Golab Singh, a brother of the Sikh
Sirdar, Shere Singh. He was a handsome man, and
wore handsome weapons. His sword, he said, had
belonged to one of the Ameers of Scinde; it was a
beautiful weapon, the blade all engrailed and dama-
scened with gold, and bearing an inscription in the
Persian character: the hilt was of silver gilt, and
studded with jewels. Making over charge to this
gentleman, I set out with my detachment for Calpee,
where the regiment was waiting for us to join, before
taking up fresh quarters at Shahjehanpur.
Insect life in India has its curiosities, and at
Calpee I was much interested in watching the awful
fate that befell a fat, round, whitey-brown grub, which
lay in the middle of my path, panting as if in trouble,
resembling much a greasy Hindu shop-keeper who
had been despoiled by the rebels. To this hapless
one approached, with hop, step and jump, a fine,
slender, piratical-looking fly, with gauzy wings and
elongated body, clad, as it were, in green mail.
With ominous hum and much twittering of antennae,
the creature stood for a moment eyeing his victim ;
and then, bestriding the quivering carcass, he dragged
it wriggling to a small hole in the ground, down
which he retreated backwards, pulling the poor grub
after him, like an Ogre to his den.
On reaching Shahjehanpur we were surprised and
gratified by a most enthusiastic reception being ac-
corded to us, as one of the two loyal regiments of the
78 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
late Bengal army. The band of Her Majesty's 82nd
met us and played us into the station, where the men
were assigned most comfortable quarters, and the
European inhabitants vied with each other in hospi-
tality to the officers of our corps.
I and a brother sub. agreed to chum together, as
Government found quarters for the men only, and
we united our resources in the purchase of an estate
Our domain comprised three mud huts and a small
tope of mango trees, not too far from the parade-
ground. We promptly ejected two large scorpions
and a larger black snake, who were the previous
tenants; my chum took possession of one hut, I of
another, and the third was shared by our servants.
All was done to our new abodes that broom and
whitewash could effect, and it was with feelings of
proud satisfaction that we assumed occupancy as
proprietors. We were to pay the modest price of
our purchase by instalments from our monthly pay.
IMy friend was wakened early one morning by
being dragged unceremoniously out of bed by his
head | Being a man of prompt action, he at once
knocked down his native servant who had taken this
liberty. Indignation changed to a gentler feeling on
seeing erect upon the bed he had left a large cobra
with expanded hood, from whose deadly bite he had
been saved by his servant’s presence of mind.
One of our men—a madman, I think—was confined
soon after our arrival at Shahjehanpur, for seditious
and mutinous language. He was promptly arrested,
having openly incited his comrades to rebel as other
regiments had done; but the Colonel simply directed
him to be dismissed the regiment. I was astonished
OENTRAL INDIA. 79
at this leniency; but our Adjutant informed me that
it was thought advisable, as otherwise the scoundrel
would have had to be tried by court-martial, and the
prestige of the regiment would have suffered.
I worked hard at Hindustani, to qualify for the
higher standard examination, and had for my in-
structor the old regimental moonshee, an excellent
old gentleman, full of old-fashioned politeness, and
replete with legendary lore. Our lesson would pro-
ceed something in this wise—
“Good-morning, Moonshee Jeel ” ... •
“Hazrat Salaamet ! It is a very fair morning,
God be praised l’”
“Pray take a seat. Shall we resume the perusal
of the ‘Bagh-o-Bahar,’ or will you take the ‘Gu-
listan' first P’’
“Whichever your Highness desires; but the
‘Gulistan' is perhaps best, since it is more diffi-
cult.” -
“Perhaps, Moonshee, you would first relate to me
that history of Abraham, which you alluded to the
other day, when we discussed the affinities between
Christianity and the faith of Islam.”
So, after a little hesitation, my respected teacher
proceeded to relate the following story:—
“Father Abraham was once going upon a journey.
He halted on the banks of a river to make his ablu-
tions and to pray. As he did so he saw a melon
floating down the stream, and being very hungry, he
reached forth his hand, took the melon from the
water, and ate it. After he had eaten the fruit, he
thought in his heart, “I have committed a great sin;
I have eaten this melon without the permission of the
80 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
owner. This is surely the road to become a thief.'
So, to obtain forgiveness for his transgression, Abra-
ham went to the village which was on the other side
of the river, and began to wander about crying out,
‘Whoever has a melon-garden on the banks of the
river, let him inform me.’ But all the people thought
him mad, and paid no heed to him. At last the
Zemindar of the village, who was sitting at his
threshing-floor, heard him, and called out, saying,
‘What word is this 2° So holy Father Abraham
related how he had eaten the melon, and how he
now hungered for forgiveness. Then the Zemindar
answered, “Of a surety it is my melon that you
have eaten, and I shall consent to forgive you, on
one condition only. I have a daughter whose eyes
and hands and feet are all awry, and whose body
also is misshapen. If you will marry her, then I will
grant you my forgiveness.’ Abraham bowed his
head meekly and answered, ‘I will accept and marry
your daughter.' But when he had married her, he
found her very handsome, and with no defect what-
ever. Her name was Sara.”
“O Moonshee Jee!” I exclaimed, “this is much
better than reading for examination. Besides, your
language is so flowing and elegant, that I feel sure it
is extremely beneficial for me to listen to you. You
do not mind my writing down your story; and can
you think of another such a one?”
The old moonshee stroked his white beard, and
looked at me with a twinkle in his eye, as if saying
to himself, “You are young—very young.” Still,
flattery is sweet, and human nature prevailed, for it is
pleasant to relate stories to an appreciative audience.
CENTRAL INDIA. 81
“Sahib,” he continued, “we have a proverb that
‘Too sweet words leave a bitter taste,’ so do not
flatter your servant any more ; but, if you wish it, I
will tell you another small story, on the understand-
ing that your studies shall begin immediately it is
finished.
“An old man with his old wife and their son
were sitting together in the jungle. They were
miserably poor, having, indeed, only one piece of
cloth to cover the three of them ; and so it came to
pass that, at the hour of prayer, one of them put on
the cloth and performed devotional exercises, while
the other two hid their nakedness by burying them-
selves up to the waist in the earth. One day his
Highness Moses happened to pass by, and seeing the
Sorry plight of these poor ones, he stopped and asked
them why they did not all pray together ? Where-
upon they all three made petition that he would, in
his kindness, grant them two more chuddars, so that
all three might pray at once. Having heard their
petition, His Highness Moses represented to Allah
that, ‘To thy slaves in the jungle, two sheets are
Wanting for purposes of prayer.’ Whereupon the
order came, ‘To those three are given three wishes;
what each one wishes, that shall be.’ His Highness
Moses explained accordingly to these poor ones the
orders of the Almighty, and then proceeded on his
Way. Then said the old wife to her husband, ‘If
you are disposed to be kind, then I shall wish to
become young again '; and she became so, as at the
age of fourteen or fifteen years. Now at this moment,
the Governor of the province came by, hunting in
that direction, and seeing the beautiful young girl,
82 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
he became enamoured of her, and placing her in a
palanquin he carried her off to his dwelling. The
husband then said to his son, “O my son, that
wicked woman was glad at being taken away by the
Governor ; say you, therefore, “O Allah grant
that she may become a pig l’’’ The boy said, and
it was so. Then the palanquin-bearers who were
carrying the woman said among themselves, ‘This
is not a woman in the palki. Hark the noise, kush !
kush kuh ! It is a devil l’ So saying, they dropped
the palanquin and ran off. Then the pig, having got
out, ran back through the jungle and rejoined the
old man and the boy ; and when they saw the pig
they became sorry, and made supplication, “O Allah!
that she may return to her human form again l' So
the old woman returned to her original shape. After
some days Highness Moses was again passing that way,
and he saw from afar off that one old man, wearing
a sheet, was praying, and the two others were buried
in the ground up to the waist. Having seen this, he
made supplication, “O Allah! these unfortunates have
not then got their sheets P’ The answer came, ‘O
Moses I have fulfilled the desires of these three
persons.’ Highness Moses then went to them, and
having heard their story, he put his hand to his
mouth and became thoughtful, and said, “Allah is
great Allah is all-powerful I Who shall tell His
praise? Al humd-ul-Allah ara-bil-ahl-min ''”
The 8th of October was the festival of the Ram
Leila, a Hindu festival held in commemoration of the
taking of Ceylon (or as they call it Lunka), by a
popular hero, since deified, of course, Raja Ram
Churn. On this day, an enormous image is set up, a
CENTRAL INDIA. 83
presentment of Ravan, King of Ceylon, the oppo-
nent of Ram Churn. This image is treated much as
boys at home treat Guy Fawkes, being pelted and
abused by the vulgar till sundown, when it is
finally blown up with gunpowder, burnt, and made
an end of. -
It was a wonderful spectacle to watch. The
people, thick as ants on a disturbed nest, crowded
around the enormous black demon-faced image, which
towered above them to the height of twenty feet or
more, with straddling legs and threatening arms.
Just such a scene as might have been when Elijah
saw the worshippers of Baal cutting themselves
with knives and crying “O Baal, hear us!”
Thanks to my good friend the moonshee's instruc-
tion, I successfully passed my examination in the
native language, and became eligible for Staff employ.
I wished to give up regimental life, which was in
no way suited either to my tastes or my ambition,
but before seeking any fresh employment I took
a year's leave to England “on private affairs.”
I parted regretfully from my chum J , with
whom I had shared the mango tope (which we had
christened the groves of Blarney), and with whom I
had formed a deep and lasting friendship. We ex-
changed souvenirs, and I left with him my faithful
bull-terrier “Grabby,” the companion of so many
lonely hours.
84 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER III.
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE.
1861–62.
AT the beginning of 1861, I was back again in Cal-
cutta, after a short but most invigorating interval of
furlough in England. •.
In returning to India I had resolved to avoid, if
possible, going back to regimental duty. I had
found the close subordination of military life unbear-
able; it seemed, indeed, like going back to school
again, with a commanding officer in place of the
master. I had learned what there was to learn of
practical infantry soldiering; I knew my drill
thoroughly, and could handle either a company or a
battalion respectably in the field. I was acquainted
with the internal economy of both native and Euro-
pean regiments, knowing how the men were
equipped and fed, and how the accounts were kept.
I longed now for some fresh field of action, some
outlet for energy and individuality, where I might
think and act on my own responsibility, and not be
merely a cog in a fighting machine.
With this end in view I set to work busily to look
up all personal or family friends who might have a
word of advice or goodwill for me in this emergency,
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 85
and after a few weeks of waiting I was successful in
obtaining an appointment as Adjutant and second-
in-command of one of the newly raised police batta-
lions, with which Government was supplementing the
native army. These battalions were, in fact, native
regiments, in all but the name; for they performed no
police functions, save the keeping of the public peace,
and were drilled, armed, and regulated in the same
way as regular troops. I was indebted for this ap-
pointment to the good offices of a connection of my
family, Mr. Arthur Grote, from whom I have always
received great kindness.
The second battalion of military police, to which
I was appointed, was stationed at Rampur Bauleah,
the centre of the great Bengal indigo industry ; and
here, as in so many other parts of India, the great spasm
of the Mutiny had dislocated old commercial arrange-
ments, and caused friction between employers and
employed. Hence came disturbances and breaches of
the peace, between English indigo-planters with their
servants on the one hand, and the native cultivators
on the other, which rendered necessary the presence
of the military police battalion with which my lot
WaS CaSt. -
The cultivation of the indigo plant had been for
many years a source of large profit to the English
merchants in Calcutta. Their custom was to buy a
comparatively small plot of land, on which they set
up a factory and built a house for their agent, trust-
ing to the surrounding peasants for the plant, which
Was grown in large quantities, in consideration of
certain moneys paid in advance by the so-called
indigo-planters.
86 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
So long as indigo fetched a high price in the market
this was a very good arrangement for both parties;
but when from various causes the price fell, then the
system no longer answered, and the native cultivators
refused to sow indigo when they could get better
prices for their corn, mustard, or other produce.
Hence arose many disputes, ill blood, enmity, and at
length open riots, the planters enforcing and the natives
refusing the old terms. Things went so far that the
planters, in defiance of right or justice, commenced
ploughing and sowing the fields where their indigo
had been wont to grow ; but at this the owners of the
land banded themselves together, armed with clubs,
to resist the oppression, and my police were sent to
keep order in the district. .
By the middle of March I had fairly settled to my
new duties. The battalion was about six hundred
strong—a very mixed lot of men, Hindus, Mussul-
mans, and Sikhs, of various sorts, but all fairly drilled
and disciplined. .
Soon after my arrival an event occurred which
aroused me to a lively sense of the wildness of the
country in which I dwelt. At a short distance from
the mat huts which formed the police barracks were
a few hovels, occupied by some villagers who
carried on a small cultivation in the vicinity. One
morning, while the men-folk were away at their
work, a leopard quietly entered one of these huts,
and seizing by the arm a child six years old, was
walking off with it, when its mother and grandmother
coming to the rescue, caught the poor little crea-
ture by both its legs. Then ensued a horrible scene,
the great cat Snarling, and the poor human creatures
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 87,
screaming, till some of my police, hearing the noise,
came shouting to the spot. On this alarm, the leopard
struck the poor mother senseless to the ground with
one blow of its paw, and, counting the grand-dam as
naught, carried off the child into the jungle. The
police pursued, and forced the creature to abandon
its prey; but the unfortunate child died the same
night.
On the 24th of May our loyal community was un-
usually full of life and gaiety in honour of the Queen's
birthday. The Rajshaye Volunteer Cavalry, nearly
all of them indigo-planters, mustered in great force
to celebrate the occasion by a full-dress parade, and
afterwards, in Anglo-Saxon fashion, to dine with the
Commandant at his house, the Burra Koti; this was
the largest house in the district, and occupied, of
course, by the largest and most influential indigo-
planter, who was also the Commandant of the
corps.
I was one of the guests at this great celebration,
and having neither liking nor capacity for wine equal
to the occasion, I heartily wished I could have emu-
lated the example of my own grandfather under
similar circumstances. He, when serving in India,
used to have beside him a cut-glass sherry decanter
filled with golden-brown toast and water, and in this,
unremarked and unchallenged, he pledged his friends
and yet kept his head.
“India is a fine country,” sagely remarked my
neighbour at dinner (an Irishman), as the fun waxed
furious ; “India is just the finest country in the world.
But a pack of young fellows come out here, and they
eat and they drink, and they drink and they eat, and
3.
88 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
then they die ; and then they write home to their
friends that the climate has killed them l’”
A ball followed the dinner, at which the gentlemen
numbered thirty-eight and the ladies eight, and, great
powers what a tyrannical minority they proved
It was at Rampur Bauleah that I had the satisfac-
tion of killing my first tiger, winning my spurs in
sport, as it were. I made one in a party of four.
We had heard of a tiger skulking round, dangerously
near human habitations, and killing a cow at a village
some ten miles distant. We set off with six elephants,
and for the first day we ineffectually beat the neigh-
bouring jungles, without catching a glimpse of the
beast; so we camped for the night in the hut of a
friendly villager, and early in the morning we again
mounted our behemoths and went forth in slow
pursuit. -
For some hours we plodded through the dry nullah
and long grass, still unsuccessfully, until I began to
feel very tired of this so-called sport. The afternoon
sun of the day before had burnt my neck and hands
till they felt raw, and the continuous joltings of the
elephant had rendered every joint stiff. Suddenly the
shout “Bagh bagh ' " (tiger! tiger!) roused me, and
put new life into our party. We pushed on as fast as
our elephants could go, sending a pad-elephant out
to turn the tigress from a field of corn for which
she was making. We left our second pad-elephant
in the rear, to head the beast back if we should
over-run her in the ardour of our pursuit.
I had just turned my elephant in order to beat a
patch of jungle on the left when there was a shot,
and a fierce ough I ough from the tigress, showing
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 89
that she was hit. I pressed on, and coming to an
open space in the jungle, I met the beast face to face,
as I may say, crossing the open from cover to cover,
and bleeding from a wound in the shoulder. I took
as cool an aim as I could manage, but it was more by
good luck than good guidance that I hit the animal
in the head, rolling her over for all the world like a
shot hare. She rolled down into a small watercourse,
whence we extricated the striped carcass and bore it
home triumphantly.
Snakes abounded at Rampur Bauleah, and I had
there an opportunity of practically testing the powers
of a snake-charmer, which I had hitherto somewhat
doubted. One morning, while sitting in the verandah,
I heard a sound much resembling the noise made by
bagpipes, and presently, as it came nearer, I descried
a strange-looking figure coming towards me, play-
ing on a curious double pipe. His hair was long
and matted in elf locks, like strips of thick felt, and
he carried over his shoulder a long springy bamboo,
from either end of which depended a reddish-yellow
bag.
“Salaam, Sahib l’” he said.
“Who are you, and what do you want?”
“Hazoor! your servant, is a charmer of serpents,
and desires to exhibit his skill for your amusement.”
This seemed to me a favourable opportunity for
testing the pretensions of these persons, and I pro-
posed to the man certain conditions under which he
should work, promising him a liberal reward if he
were successful in capturing a poisonous snake
within a certain distance of my bungalow. After
some demur he assented to my proposal, stipulating
90 A Ff,Y ON THE WHEEL.
only that if he failed, he should receive half the pro-
mised sum of money.
Accordingly, I first had him stripped naked, and
assured myself absolutely that he had no snake con-
cealed about his person. I examined his hair, searched
in the folds of his dress, and even looked inside the
gourd-pipe. He was then allowed to resume his
garments; but I kept a close watch upon him, not
allowing him to approach his reddish-yellow bags,
which contained baskets, and doubtless also tamed
snakes. After this examination he was told to begin
his performance, and so, taking his pipe and accom-
panied by me, he began his peregrinations, playing
his doleful wild music the while.
First he searched the house, then the small piece
of garden in front thereof, after which he turned
towards the cook-house, and my servants' huts which
lay a short distance in the rear. Midway between
these huts and my bungalow was a small weedy patch
of rose-garden, and towards this patch he first
directed his steps, making wails and groans issue
from his pipe, and keenly peering about as he went ;
not a corner seeming to escape his eye. Suddenly
he left off playing and commenced an exhortation in
an unknown tongue, the purport of which might be
gathered from the varying tones of his voice, running
through a gamut as it were—coaxing, exhorting,
commanding, threatening. Then he ceased speaking,
and fixing his eyes upon a spot among the rose-
bushes, he recommenced playing on his pipe. Slowly,
very slowly he drew nearer and nearer, his pipe
keeping up a very soft monotonous droning sound,
when—whish l with a plunge and a dart he thrust
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 91
his arm into the grass and drew forth a wriggling
cobra !
I gave him his reward; but as I had still a doubt
lurking in my mind as to whether he might not have
placed his snake where we found it, I tempted him
with another reward to catch for me one which had
often been seen, and was known to reside behind my
bearers’ house. Thither we accordingly went, and
the same incantations recommenced, when I saw to
my astonishment, as he swayed to and fro, playing on
his pipe, a snake slowly raise its head from beside a
ditch or gutter which ran behind the servants' houses.
In an instant he caught it by the neck and jerked it
out among the crowd of native on-lookers, who fled
precipitately on every side as the snake fell in their
midst. The snake-charmer then caught the creature,
and forcing open its jaws, passed a fold of his turban
into its mouth and round the two poison-fangs which
lay in the upper part of the mouth, tearing them out
with a dexterous jerk. He then spat down the
snake's throat and deposited it in his bag. As he
did so I noticed that his thumb was bleeding.
“Have you been bitten ?” I inquired in some
trepidation, as I did not desire a tragic outcome of
my curiosity.
“Yes, Sahib,” he replied calmly; “the last snake
was a vicious one, and it has bitten me. But there
is no danger,” he added, extracting from the recesses
of his mysterious bag a small piece of white stone.
This he wetted and applied to the wound, to which
it seemed to adhere. He then took a piece of some
other curious substance from the bundle, put it to
his forehead, and drew an imaginary line with it
92 A FLY on THE wheet.
round the wrist of the injured hand. This com-
pleted the treatment, and he apparently suffered no
inconvenience or material hurt. I was thus effectu-
ally convinced that snake-charming is a real art, and
not merely clever conjuring, as I had previously
imagined. These so-called snake-stones are well-
known throughout India; when applied to a snake-
bite the stone appears to adhere to the wound, by
some sort of capillary attraction, I suppose. It is
placed afterwards in milk, where it discharges the
poison which has been absorbed into it, and thus
becomes cleansed and again fit for use. The milk,
it is said, turns colour and becomes corrupt.
I still felt unsettled in my work, and seized the
opportunity offered by Government to all officers in
the old East India Company’s Service, to exchange
to a Queen's regiment, hoping thus to be sent to
China, where war was then going on, and so eventually
to return to England. I therefore volunteered for
general service, and after some delay was appointed a
lieutenant in the 104th Regiment, although retaining,
for the time being, my police command. .
Towards the close of the year some disturbances
occurred in the adjacent district of Pubna, and I was
sent thither, with a strong detachment of the bat-
talion, to preserve the public peace.
I found Pubna the quietest of small stations, the
European society being limited to the magistrate in
charge of the district, who was a Bengal civilian of
sporting proclivities, and the surgeon. The latter
gentleman was distinguished by his bulk. He
weighed twenty stone, and was one of the largest
and most good-natured men I have ever met. No
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE, 93
horse could carry him, no carriage contain him, so
he daily mounted by a ladder a very stout and docile
elephant, and thus made his professional rounds.
The country round offered rare opportunity for
sport, and was good both for shooting and for
riding. The neighbouring indigo-planters were, as
a rule, good shots and good pig-stickers, and most
hospitably inclined into the bargain.
Shortly after my arrival, the magistrate and I
arranged to go together to Dilura, an indigo fac-
tory about twenty miles distant, where the manager,
Mr. P , was the best spear in the country side,
and his good wife the best hand at pastry. We
had also a warrant out against an outrageous female
tiger, whose tyrannous and carnivorous behaviour
had caused the villagers in those parts to present a
petition of complaint, requesting the Court to make
an order
We were hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs.
P , and early on the following morning we rode
off, a party of four, in search of pig, our host quoting
gaily the distich—
From tusk of boar, though hurt be sore,
There is not much to fear;
But horn of hart, though light the smart,
Will bring thee to thy bier.
We were provided with three horses apiece, to
allow for hard running or accident. Each man
carried a spear heavily weighted with lead at the
butt-end, the point being shaped like a laurel leaf.
Our servants followed, leading the spare horses and
carrying fresh spears, and with them came a crowd
of beaters armed with sticks and drums.
94. A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
We beat through the fields and coverts for some
two hours, without finding anything save quail, which
rose, here a bird and there a bird, as our horses pushed
breast-high through the crops. Suddenly, as we
were walking our nags through a tall field of mustard,
our host stopped and raised his hand in warning.
We joined him quickly, and saw on the ground a
hemispherical heap of dry grass and mashed stalks,
with just a sprig of fresh green on the top.
“The old gentleman is at home,” said P ;
“see his card outside,” pointing to the green stalks
outside the lair ; and with that he plunged his spear
into the heap. Ough Humph 1 Humph Out
rushed a tumultuous boar, straight between my
horse's legs. My nag gave a tremendous leap into
the air ; but I stuck to him, and in another moment
we were off in pursuit as fast as our horses could
go, racing for first spear. On we went, through high
grass, over rough ground full of holes, trusting to
our horses' Sureness of foot. Down, down plunged
the boar into a deep ravine. With a rush down and
a scramble up, we followed him, but the veteran,
turning with admirable tactics, charged us on the
opposite side as we came up, with such vigour that
the first horseman rolled back into the nullah. The
second spearman quickly followed, delivering his
thrust with so much energy that he could not with-
draw the spear, but had to leave it quivering in the
boar's body. My turn came next ; but as I thrust
at him, the beast jumped and caught my foot in his
mouth, biting the toe of the boot completely through,
but fortunately inflicting no further injury.
The boar was now hard hit and could run no far-
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 95
ther; so, choosing a piece of broken rocky ground, he
stood there at bay in the midst of a clump of bushes.
Every bristle stood erect ; his small eyes gleamed
with fury, and as he champed his teeth the foam flew
on to his dark hide, and, mingling with his blood,
gave him a most formidable appearance. -
Wainly we tried to get at him. The ground was
so bad, and his position so well chosen, that not one
of the horses would face the savage rush with which
he met any attempt at approach.
At length we rode at him together, one from each
side, and thus gave him the final stroke. He died
bravely, fighting to the last. A large boar, thirty-
four inches and a half high at the shoulder, with a
fine pair of keen curved white tusks, and so heavy
that it took four men to lift him. Truly a most
game and courageous animal, and fully bearing out
Shakspeare's description in “Venus and Adonis”—
On his broad back he hath a battle set
Of bristly pikes, that ever threat his foes.
His eyes like glow-worms shine when he doth fret ;
His snout digs sepulchres where'er he goes;
Being moved, he strikes whate'er is in his way,
And whom he strikes his cruel tuskes slay.
His brawny sides, with hairy bristles armed,
Are better proof than thy spear's point can enter;
His short thick neck cannot be lightly harmed;
Being ireful, on the lion he would venture.
The thorny bramble and embracing bushes
As fearful of him part, when through he rushes.
We had more good sport, killing a couple of pigs;
neither of them, however, made so gallant a stand
as the first one, until at last a most unfortúnate
incident put an end to the day's sport.
96 A FLY ON TEIE WHEEL.
While we were in pursuit of a fine boar, a native
who was at work in a field hard by, saw the hunt
approaching, and ran to hide himself in the ditch
which bordered his field. As ill luck would have it,
the angry hunted beast entered this very ditch in his
flight, and coming upon the crouching man, fell upon
him, and with repeated tusk-strokes literally cut the
poor fellow to ribands before we could come up to
his assistance. We did all we could ; but one of
the main arteries must have been severed, for he bled
to death in a very short time. -
This sad accident cast a gloom over our party, and
we returned to the house much downcast.
On my return to Pubna, I received official notice
that the military police was to be disbanded, and a
civil police established on an entirely new footing.
I had to decide whether to return to regimental
life or to become a real policeman, and weighed the
matter carefully in my own mind.
Should I “become a dog for the bone's sake,”
as the old proverb has it P But the bone was a good
bone, and several of my friends had already thrown
in their lot with the new dispensation, so I decided
to do the same. .
I returned with my detachment to Rampur Bauleah
in April, sailing down the Ganges in native boats,
and soon had my hands full of work in making up
all the books and regimental accounts, preparatory
to the disbandment of the corps.
A terrible tornado visited the district before I left,
culminating, or rather centred, at Gadagari, some
eighteen miles from the station of Rampur Bauleah.
Three villages were entirely destroyed, and over three
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 97
hundred human beings killed, besides heavy losses
in flocks and herds.
I had to go out to the relief of the poor folk, and
the sight was indeed awe-inspiring. A regular path-
way had been clean swept by the storm, and upon this,
for at least five miles, not a stick was left standing
—every house, every tree razed from the ground, as
if a raging fire had swept along. Fish had been
taken up by the fury of the wind out of a small
lake in the vicinity, and strewn broadcast over the
fields, accompanied by a shower of mud. Only about
twenty per cent. of the inhabitants along this track
of the storm escaped alive. A man's dead body was
found jammed in the cleft of a tree eight feet from
the ground ; others were missing altogether. Only
those survived who had had the presence of mind to
throw themselves flat on their faces when the storm
came. One man told me how he had been forcibly
lifted off the ground by the wind, and then as vio-
lently dashed down again. I found the air deadly with
noxious emanations from the dead carcases of cattle,
and many people were suffering from fever and want
of food. The district magistrate did what lay in
his power to help, and many of the sick were sent
into the Government Hospital at Rampur Bauleah,
but the distress notwithstanding was very great.
At the end of April I was appointed District
Superintendent of Police, on a salary of five hundred
rupees monthly, which was exactly double my regi-
mental pay as Lieutenant. I was directed to proceed
Without delay, and assume charge of the police in
the district of Bhaugulpur. The military police
battalion to which I had been attached was ordered
7
98 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
to march to Patna, under charge of the Commandant,
there to be disbanded. I accordingly took leave
of my friends, and of the men I had commanded,
and made the best of my way to my new quarters,
assuming charge of the Bhaugulpur police early in
May.
The first noteworthy circumstance that struck me
in the place, was finding the worship observed of
an Englishman who had been revered and deified by
admiring natives. This was a new and refreshing
point of view, after having for the past five years
considered my countrymen only as the hunters or
the hunted, fighting either to save their own lives
or take those of others.
He was long dead, this good Englishman ; but in
bygone years, when our Government assumed charge
of the Bhaugulpur District, he had been the first
representative of the East India Company; and so
well, so wisely had he exercised his power, that after
his death the natives built a shrine to his memory,
and worshipped as a god the memory of Cleveland
Sahib.
I found the duties of the new police scarcely yet
defined, and travelled about the district trying to
learn what was doing. I was camping one evening
in the vicinity of a village, when I was called upon to
try and condemn to death a very hardened criminal.
A respectable-looking native came to me as I sat
smoking my evening pipe. His clothing was rent,
and dust was upon his head, sure signs of woe.
“Protector of the poor l’’ he cried, prostrating
himself at my feet, “help thy most unworthy and
wretched slave An unblest and evil-minded alli-
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 99
gator has this day devoured my little daughter. She
went down to the river to fill her earthen jar with
water, and the evil one dragged her down and has
devoured her. Alas ! she had on her gold bangles.
Great is my misfortune !”
Other villagers came up and confirmed the man’s
story. This alligator, it appeared, had become the
terror of the neighbourhood, haunting the bathing-
places, and seizing on any living thing that came
within reach of his ugly jaws. Like the tiger, alli-
gators habitually avoid human beings; but once
they taste blood, they rival the striped man-eater in
cunning and ferocity.
I had often before seen the mud banks of the
Ganges bordered, as it were, with the sprawling hand-
prints of the great saurians; and once during very
hot weather I had sighted, and carefully concealed
myself from, a great alligator wandering across coun-
try, probably in search of a pool, his own having
dried up. I watched him out of sight, waddling
slowly, with ungainly lurching gait, crashing through
the dry reeds and grass. From my lurking-place I
could have dropped a stone on him as he passed, his
Small, dull, malignant eye gleaming from under his
mud-caked hide ; but I had never hitherto been the
death of an alligator, and the present opportunity
was a good one. So, dismissing the villagers, I sat
myself down to excogitate a plan for the circumven-
tion of the foe.
Boyish books of adventure recurred to me, in
which one favourite hero, I remembered, had stunned
his victim by a discharge from a powerful galvanic
battery; another had laid an artful mine of gun-
7 *
100 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
cotton; while a third had concealed a charge of
powder in a floating bait. A floating bait ! The
very thing for this greedy monster. “Hi! Cha-
prasil Go and procure for me two very strong
fish-hooks.”
“Hazoor! this poor place possesses no worker in
iron.”
I explained, however, that the hooks I must have;
so presently a man was brought over from another vil-
lage two miles distant, who, constructing for himself
an impromptu forge, in a grove of mango trees close to
my camp, soon hammered out and tempered a couple
of rough hooks, strong enough to hold a shark.
Meanwhile, the villagers informed me that there
was no further sign of the alligator ; probably he was
lurking in some hole in the bank, gorged by his dread-
ful meal on the poor child, a portion of whose garments
had been found floating among the river weeds.
At daybreak the next morning all were astir, and
curiosity was rife among the dusky crowd who
followed me to the water's edge. Silently they
followed, for an enemy was being approached; fear-
fully they went, for rumour had it that this alligator
was no alligator, but a devil. Here, however,
was a real live Sahib, and all the village knew that
the Sahibs were white devils of a most powerful
description.
The river rolled down its yellow turbid flood,
tinged by the faintly golden light of the early day.
A slight morning breeze ruffled the tops of the
feathery palms, while the crowd of villagers, each
close-wrapped in his white sheet against the chill of
the morning air, seemed like a company of spectres
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 101
flitting with naked noiseless tread over the Sandy
ground. • *
I had devoted a fat duck to the honourable post of
decoy-bait, and the bird quacked in an uneasy, pro-
testing manner as we went along. Under each wing
I had firmly attached a strong hook, to which was
fastened a stout cord buoyed at intervals by fisher-
men’s net floats.
Having reached a high bank under which the alli-
gator was said to lurk, I cautiously approached the
water's edge and loosed the struggling bird, which
sailed away down the current, flapping and quacking
just over the enemy's den. .
For a few moments we watched it in breathless
expectation; then two long smooth waves in the dark
current parted before a snouted head ; there was a
splash and a swirl in the pool, and the duck had
disappeared. -
The line now began to run out at a rate that kept
all hands alert. What a hubbub and a shrieking !
What yells and execrations! The parents of the
poor child, who had been seated on the ground at a
short distance wailing and muttering curses on the
alligator, caught the excitement and joined actively
with the rest. The rope had been made fast to the
stump of a tree, and all hands tugged at it, paying
out the slack and pulling in whenever the strain of
our fairly-hooked fish was eased. Once the beast
made for his hole under the bank and tried to Sulk,
but he was soon routed out from this refuge by
repeated pokes of long bamboo poles, and at last I
had the satisfaction of seeing the soft yellow white
skin over his heart as he wallowed helpless in shallow
102 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
water. His mighty tail still circled dangerously,
lashing the water into foam with tremendous force,
until I shot him in the head ; immediately a dozen
spears were thrust into him, and his hideous, ungainly
carcass was hauled to shore in triumph.
I could not restore the poor child to her parents;
but I had avenged them on her destroyer, and I think
that the recovery of the gold bangles, which were
found in the animal’s stomach, afforded them consider-
able consolation.
At Bhaugulpur I frequented the swimming bath
most assiduously, and, shortly after my arrival in the
station, I there made the acquaintance of the judge,
Mr. S--, somewhat unceremoniously.
The bath was in close contiguity to this gentle-
man's house, and his custom was to array himself in
bathing-drawers in his own bed-room, and then,
throwing a dressing-gown over his shoulders, he
would walk ponderously (being a heavy weight) to
the bath-house, where, instead of entering by the door,
he took a nearer way by plunging head foremost
through a small window which opened on to his
grounds. It was a favourite amusement of his, thus
to surprise any unsuspecting acquaintance with a
ducking.
I, who had never met this gentleman in my life,
was quietly enjoying the cool bath one morning, and
floating lazily on the water, when an enormous white
body projected itself suddenly through the window
on top of me, and proceeded, to my great indignation,
to hold me down under water. Being myself of a
Somewhat irascible temperament, I at once retaliated
by punching the offending body with all my might,
TÉIE INDIAN POf ICE SERVICE. 103
and we rose to the surface panting, puffing, and
glaring wrathfully at each other. I had been mis-
taken for a friend, and did not appreciate the greeting
of amity!
I was inordinately fond of bathing and diving, and
from this latter amusement I contracted an abscess
in the ear, which for a week gave me the most in-
tolerable pain. I could neither eat nor sleep, and
thought I should go distracted, having never before
been ill in my life.
Towards the end of May I was ordered to go to
Mozuffurpur, and there to organize and introduce the
new system of civil police, pending the arrival of
the Commandant of my old military battalion, who
was busy at Patna disbanding the corps, and for
whom I was to act as locum tenens. I was glad of
the opportunity, feeling that the work to be done
would give me fuller knowledge in my own special
district, when it should be deemed fit to give me a
district of my own.
The new Bengal police system was one of the many
reforms introduced by Her Majesty's Government on
taking over India from the Honourable John Com-
pany.
Under the old system, the magistrate of the district,
a Bengal civilian, was the head of the district police.
The force usually consisted of a few score of Bur-
kundazes, as they were called, who were stationed at
the different Thannahs—each station being in charge
of a Thannadar or Police Darogah. The Darogah
Worked directly under and with the magistrate, re-
porting crime and sending up cases for trial, or
making inquiries as directed. He was responsible to
104 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the magistrate only, just as the magistrate himself
was responsible to Government, for the good order
and well-being of his district.
By the new regulations, the police throughout the
whole province of Bengal was now constituted a
distinct and separate department, directed by an
Inspector General of Police, who had his central
office in Calcutta, with Deputy-Inspectors in charge
of divisions, and District Superintendents under them
again, over each district.
The Burkundazes of the old police were either
pensioned off, or incorporated with the new force;
fresh rules and regulations were issued, and, in a
word, a great new machine was constructed for the
repression of crime. Like other machines, it did
not at first work quite smoothly, and perhaps the
most fruitful source of dissension (which has since
been remedied) was the making district police
superintendents independent of the district magis-
trateS.
Most of the new superintendents were, like myself,
young military men, entirely without experience in
criminal investigation, and not inclined to subordinate
themselves voluntarily to the civilian magistrates in
charge, for the two services had from time imme-
morial been antagonistic and jealous one of the other.
As a natural consequence, the magistrates were
prejudiced against the system from the commence-
ment, and viewed its officers with disfavour and
suspicion.
At MoZuffurpur I made a full investigation of the
police records, and extracted therefrom some curious
information. I found that dacoity (that is to say,
THE INDIAN POf ICE SERVICE. 105
robbery with violence) was generally brought home
to the offender by means of the so-called voluntary
confessions of one or more of the band ; but the
devices to which the police had recourse to procure
confession were often extremely ingenious if not par-
ticularly humane.
They would fill the nose and ears with cayenne
pepper; stop the circulation of the blood with tight
ligaments; suspend their victim head downwards in
a well; and, in cases of great obstinacy, immerse re-
peatedly in the water until insensibility (but not
death) was produced. These were a few of the
feathers from the wing of justice in dealing with
criminals. A few minor amenities were observed in
dealing with women and children, such as hanging
them up by the hair or suspending them by a cord
tied to their thumbs.
In the old golden age, when it was usual for a
police Darogah to leave a handsome fortune to his
heirs, there was no difficulty about money. In a
difficult case, where evidence was wanting, money
would be well spent in suborning a witness or two.
“Hal” the magistrate would say, “The case is defi-
cient in evidence. Remanded for a fortnight.” And
as the police officers were judged mainly by the suc-
cess of their criminal inquiries, and a man's promo-
tion depended on his proving his cases, it happened
usually that at the end of a fortnight the requisite
evidence was forthcoming.
All we, brand-new military superintendents, set to
Work to bring about a different state of things. Full
of zeal and destitute of experience, thinking more of
drill and discipline than of detecting and punishing
106 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
crime, we were very new brooms indeed. The old
functionaries of police in the districts assigned to us,
disgusted at the wholesale changes, and hating the
very names of drill and uniform, for the most part
resigned, while the police stations were hastily filled
with batches of raw recruits, or by men from the old
disbanded military battalions, who were ill fitted for
the intricate and complicated investigations of crime
among the acute criminals of Bengal.
Great also was the difference between the aspect of
a magistrate on the bench, trying a case which had
been directed by his own police, and that of the same
functionary called upon to decide in one brought for-
ward by the new system of investigation. Sternness
and judicial severity in the latter case were apparent
in every wrinkle of the magisterial brow, a demeanour
fully sufficient to indicate to the witnesses what the
Sahib's views might be; consequently, evidence which
had in the first instance been given firmly and clearly
to the police officer would quaver and shake, waver
and be wanting, under the dread glance of the pre-
siding magistrate.
It was astonishing what accuracy of statement was
now required from plaintiffs. They must be acquainted
fractionally with the weight, size, and shape of each
article of their property which had been abstracted,
even if weeks, or perhaps months, had elapsed since
the theft, otherwise the plaint was dismissed.
I struggled hard to keep both heart and temper in
the seemingly hopeless task of putting new wine into
old bottles, and was at length rewarded for my efforts
by an approving letter from the Inspector-General of
Police, and the intimation that I had been appointed
THE INDIAN POLICE SERVICE. 107
permanently as District Superintendent of Hazari-
bagh. So making over charge of the Mozuffurpur
police office to my quondam Commandant, who arrived
from Patna early in July 1862, I set off for my new
appointment. -
108 A FLY on THE wheet.
CHAPTER IV.
HAZARIBAGH.
1862–63.
I PERFORMED the journey to Hazaribagh by palki-
dák, travelling by night as well as by day. One
morning I woke with the sound of a hammer in my
ears. I put my head out to see what it might mean.
The dim grey dawn was breaking, barred with
streaks of darker cloud, and the rain poured down
steadily.
“Ohé! where are we? What is this noise of
hammering, O unblessed ones P”
“Your Highness, behold! There in front of us
lies Hazaribagh. We have gone bravely the whole
night through, and trust that we may be considered
worthy of your favour.”
This was a hint at “baksheesh,” which indeed they
deserved, poor fellows.
“Yes, but why do we stop? and what is this
hammering noise P”
“We stop, Hazoor, on account of the stream,
which the heavy rain has caused to rise above the head
of a man; and while we waited for the water to go
down, Ram Dhyan, my brother, was repairing a stay
HAZARIBAGH. 109
in the palki, which has given way during the night's
travel.” - - -
I sent a man across the stream, swimming, to carry
a letter to Major B–, my new chief, the Deputy
Commissioner of Hazaribagh; for this was a non-
regulation district, a happy Eden where the Bengal
civilian had not as yet intruded, and where an army-
officer could still be a magistrate and head of a
district. as
I was very hungry, and ached much from the
jolting of a night's travel. “Bothersome little tor-
rent l” thought I, as I went down to the water's
edge, fourteen feet deep, and running like a mill-
sluice. Nothing for it but patience, commingled
with hunger, for I had eaten nothing for sixteen
hours.
The day wore on, and at length my eyes were
gladdened by the sight of my messenger returning.
Soon he reached the opposite bank, and arranging
carefully a bundle on his head, proceeded to swim
across. Precious bundle ! What might it not con-
tain 2 My anxiety was intense as I watched his
efforts. Ah ! the stream is too strong—he will be
swept down. The bundle must be wetted or lost !
Confound the fellow ! he is not worth his ears full of
water. No ; he recovers himself, and all is well.
Gravely he approaches me, dripping from his swim.
“The Major Sahib sends his Salaam, and this letter,
and this bundle.”
What a pie O pie, accompanied as thou
Wast by two bottles of pale ale, even at this distance
of time, I regard thee as a green spot in memory's
Waste | .
110 A FLY ON THE WHEEL's
Major B–’s note was most kind. He bade me
welcome, and offered me a share of his house and
table. Strange, this esprit de corps / Here, as from
one soldier to another, I had a kindly and hospitable
reception, such as no civilian had ever accorded to
me, and, dweller in tents and dāk-bungalows as I
had been, I felt my heart warm as if coming at last
to a home.
My pleasant anticipations were fully realised. I
found in Major B , not only a chief, anxious for
the good of all those under him, but also a warm
personal friend, who did all in his power, both to
make me comfortable, and to put me in full posses-
sion of my work and responsibilities.
I was most anxious to learn all that I could of the
place and people among whom my lot was cast, and
to this end, although the rainy season was then at
its height, I started off, as soon as I could get to-
gether the necessary camp equipage, to visit every
police station in the district. -
After inspecting and making myself known to my
police, I returned to the station. Her Majesty's 77th
Regiment was then quartered at Hazaribagh, and the
officers of the regiment courteously made me an
honorary member of their mess, a convenience which
I much appreciated.
Curious and droll were the stories which freely
circulated after dinner. Yankee yarns were not
such household words with us in those days as they
are at present, and the opinions of one Ethan Spike
were received with all the applause their narrator
could desire.
He was required to serve as a juryman, this
FIAZARIBAGH. 111
Ethan, and the criminals on trial were a German
and a negro.
“‘Mr. Spike, Sir,’ said the judge, ‘have you
formed any opinion for or against the prisoners?’
“‘Not pertickler agin the Jarmin,’ says I, “but
I hate niggers eZ a gineral principle, and I shall go
for hangin' this here white-woolled cuss, whether he
killed his man or no.'
“‘Do you know the natur of an oath P’ the clerk
he axed me. -
“‘I orter,’ sez I; ‘I’ve used enough on 'em. I
begun to swear when I was only about able to
toddle.”
“‘That’ll do,” sez the clerk. Sez he, “You can
go home. You won’t be wanted in this here case.’
“‘But, sez I, ‘you Mister, you can’t hang that
nigger unless I’ve sot on him. I’m a reg’lar jewry-
man, you know, drawed out of the box by the selekt
man, and I’ve allus had a hankerin' to hang a nigger.
Now, when a merciful dispensatory seems to hev
purwided one for me, you sez I shan’t sit on him 2'
And then I reg’lar blew up. ‘Is this your free
Institootions P’ sez I ; ‘is this your boaste 9
Here someone hollered out, “Silence in the Court. '
“‘The Court be * I did not finish that re-
mark, for a couple of constables took a holt of me,
and in the twinkling of a bed-post I was shoved out
downstairs and into the street.”
The next story was given as a personal adventure
by a grave-looking man who was attached to the
77th as Interpreter. He belonged to the Company's
Service, and had served many years in India.
“When I was recovering from a bad illness,” he
112 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
said, “some few years ago, I was ordered by the
Calcutta doctors to take a month's trip to the Sand
Heads, at the mouth of the Hooghly, for change of
air. So one fine morning I got myself on board
the pilot brig ‘Arcturus,’ and at once sought my
berth and fell asleep, fatigued by the unusual
exertion. -
“I slept a long time; so that when I at length
awoke, and crawled up on deck, we were fast getting
out to the Sand Heads, and the land showed blue
and hazy behind us. The weather looked ugly, and,
with a falling barometer, the captain was anxious to
get well away from land before nightfall.
“Towards evening, the wind freshened into a
regular gale, and by midnight the gale had increased
to a hurricane. Strangely enough the tumult and
tossing of the elements seemed quite to invigorate
me, and I sat lashed in a chair, which was secured
midships to the cabin skylight, enjoying the grand
spectacle of a great storm at sea.
“A tremendous sea was running, and we hove to,
with one small sail close reefed. The wind blew the
white crests of the waves into the air, driving them,
in the form of Salt stinging, sleet, across the deck.
The vessel laboured heavily, and from time to time
would dip her bows right under, taking on board a
great green Sea.
“‘You had better go below, Sir; this is no place
for invalids,' said the captain ; and even as he spoke
a terrific blast struck the ship, throwing her on her
beam-ends, where she lay unable to right herself. I
hastily undid the lashings which bound me to my
chair, and crawled to the higher side of the deck,
HAZARIBAGH. 113
where I secured myself again by tying a rope
round my waist.
“‘Cut away the masts l’ roared the captain, and
his order was promptly carried out; the thud of the
axes could hardly be heard for the fearful shrieking
of the wind and the swish of the yeasty surges
which seethed past us in the dark.
“With a crash the mainmast fell heavily over into
the sea, and to my horror and despair I went with
it, the rope which I had bound fast round my waist
being attached to the mast. Whether anyone saw
me go I know not ; before I had time to cry out
the ship was receding from my sight, and I was
struggling in the boiling waters to gain a place on
the mast, where I soon made myself fast by means of
the fatal rope, and managed to maintain my position,
although nearly drowned by the spray which inces-
Santly washed over me. Presently, as the further
end of the mast rose on the top of a wave, I thought
I could distinguish against the faint light of the
sky a round black object like a man's head; and
on gesticulating and shouting violently to attract
attention, I soon found that it really was a com-
panion in misfortune, who was also observing
me, and soon began to wriggle himself along the
mast in my direction. He was one of the seamen
of the brig, a man named Williams, who had been
washed overboard when the vessel heeled over, and
had fortunately gained the mast when it fell into the
Sea, - *
“The wind fell as the day dawned, after we had
passed a long and dreary night exposed to the fury
of the waves. There was no sign of the ship any-
8
114 A FLY ON THE WEIEEL.
where ; but as we anxiously scanned the horizon we
saw a low purple line that might be land.
“‘It looks like Saugor Island,’ said Williams,
‘and if so, there are stockades built there on purpose
for castaways like ourselves, where we shall find pro-
vision, and shelter from the tigers which abound in
the sandy swamps.’
“The wind was fortunately in the right quarter,
and the land grew so near that Williams proposed
to swim ; but I had neither strength nor nerve for
such an attempt. Not to be daunted, he took in his
mouth one of the many ends of rope which hung to
our mast, and said he would try a bit of towing in
order to get to shore more quickly. Hardly had he
slid off the mast than he gave a cry of joy. He stood,
and the water barely reached to his shoulders. So
he waded along, guiding the mast, until I joined him,
and we proceeded together through the shallow water,
filled with thankfulness at feeling the solid ground
once more under our feet.
“The shore was not an attractive one. We were
hungry and exhausted, and the sun beat down on
us with terrible power. We started off in search of
one of the stockades of which my companion had
heard, and as we went he drew my attention to
a vulture which was perched on the branch of a
tree, and was attentively watching something in the
jungle beneath.
“‘There is some dead animal there,' said Williams,
‘and I am so sharp-set, I think I must go shares
with the vulture.’ He went off to see, and I sat
down wearily to wait his return, feeling that I could
go no farther.
HAZARIBA GHe 115
“Presently I saw him coming towards me, creeping
as stealthily as he could, and making signs of terror.
“‘For God's sake, Sir,’ he cried, “get up and
come quickly. Yonder’s a great tiger eating some-
thing, and I think he saw me !'
“I struggled to rise ; but it was no use, my
limbs refused to carry me.
“‘You go on, Williams, and save yourself. I
cannot stir an inch farther, tiger or no tiger.’
“I was stopped by the expression of Williams's
face; and following the direction of his affrighted
glance, I saw the tiger stealthily following us at a
distance of about a hundred yards.
“‘Run, my lad | There is no need to sacrifice
two lives.’
“‘No, Sir,’ said the brave fellow, ‘I can’t leave
you that way. I have neither kith nor kin, while
you, Sir, have a wife and little 'uns. I’ve heard tell
of a dodge, and I’ll try it now.’
“I could not restrain him, and to my horror he
turned and walked straight at the tiger. The animal
looked uneasy and retreated a few paces, lashing his
sides angrily with his tail, then rose to his full height
before crouching to spring. I shut my eyes, ex-
pecting to hear the death-cry of the rash fellow, and
giving myself up also for lost; but no cry came, and
I looked again.
“Lo | Williams had turned his back on the tiger,
and was fixedly gazing on the beast, with his head
between his legs, and in this remarkable position he
again slowly advanced, walking backwards. This un-
precedented method of attack discomfited the tiger,
who, after looking uneasily for a moment at the
8 *
116 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
strange object advancing towards him with uncouth
noises, gave a roar of disappointed anger and vanished
into the jungle. Williams sank exhausted to the
ground, but rallied himself as I approached.
“‘Lord, Sir, this be mortal dry work I had my
heart in my mouth, I do assure you.’
“Terror lent me strength, and we made off to-
gether with all possible speed, glancing fearfully
behind us from time to time, as some rustling in the
jungle made us fancy our enemy was still in pursuit,
and it was with deep thankfulness that we gained the
stockade, and entering, barred the door. Then I
remember no more for a time, as I sank down in a
deep swoon. When I came to myself, the evening
breeze was sighing round the stockade, and a chill
mist was rising ghost-like from the jungle. I looked
round for Williams, and soon espied him lying in a
corner dead drunk, a large empty bottle labelled
‘Rum ' beside him. The small stock of provisions
he had left untouched.
“Poor fellow ! this imprudence cost him his life.
Fever fastened on him, and although I did my ut-
most to save him, he quickly succumbed; and three
days afterwards, when I was discovered and rescued
by those in charge of the stockades, my only com-
panion was a corpse.” *
These evenings at the mess formed a welcome inter-
lude after my day's work ; for I had plenty to do in
introducing and Organizing the new police. New
forms, new returns, new methods of account-keeping,
had to be introduced, and required endless explana-
tion and supervision ; the old burkundazes had to
be dismissed and new men enlisted and drilled,
HAZARIBAGH. 117
clothed and disciplined; whilst I had, in addition, to
acquire an accurate knowledge of the written Persian
character, in which all the reports were made, besides
endeavouring to pick up the still more intricate dia-
lects of the Kols and Sonthal tribes who inhabited the
Hazaribagh district in great numbers.
When the pleasant cold weather came, I arranged
with the Deputy Commissioner to make a joint tour
of inspection in the district, and we started in
December, with full camp equipage.
Tents in India are many in form and size, and in
purchasing one for myself I was much exercised to
decide among their various merits. There was the
great double-poled tent, used by our soldiers during
the Mutiny, cool and spacious inside, but heavy and
cumbrous to carry ; the simple pall tent, such as the
friendly planter at Joumptir had given me; the single-
poled tent, and the béchoba, or tent without a pole;
and finally, there was the “Swiss cottage '' tent, on
which I decided, as it had the advantage of being
divisible into two compartments, with, in addition,
a small bathing-room, and large outer flaps which
served as shelter for my servants. I hired also a
professional tent-pitcher, or kilassee, and purchased
various articles of camp furniture of the multum in
parvo order.
We travelled by easy stages, enjoying the cool
mornings and the immunity from office work. Our
way lay through level cultivated fields, interspersed
With an occasional thicket of bamboo, and as we rode
along, followed by my police sowars, we chatted
pleasantly of old England, and compared our experi-
ences during the late Mutiny.
s
|
118 A Fily ON THE WHEEL.
“One picture remains on my memory,” said
Major B , “a scene during the Sonthal Insur-
rection in these parts in 1856. We had had a sharp
bout with the rebels, and had put them to rout. I
had got separated somehow from my party, and
reined in my horse at the edge of a wood to look
round for my men. Before me lay a field of trampled
corn, the ripe ears stained here and there with blood,
or flattened under the weight of a dead body.
“I heard a rustle on my right, where some of the
corn was still standing, and saw a young man, a
fugitive Sonthal. He was dark, almost black in
colour, nearly naked, with wild, matted elf-locks
hanging over his face. With one hand he cautiously
pushed aside the corn; in the other he grasped his bow
and arrows. He was followed by a woman bearing
a child in her arms, and an old man; these were
probably his wife, son, and father. I watched them
silently, hoping they might make good their escape,
when a rushing sound announced the arrival of a
horseman. The fugitives hastily hid themselves as
he appeared, a native soldier, in gay uniform,
cantering through the field, the scarlet pennon on
his lance all draggled and dark with blood. For a
moment I thought he would go by without seeing
them. But no ; some movement caught his eye, and
with a yell he checked his horse. Wheeling round,
still at a hard gallop, he passed his spear through the
body of the younger Sonthal. With a graceful turn
of his wrist he withdrew the lance, and the man fell
dead; but as he cantered heedlessly off, a sudden fury
seized the old father, who grasped the dead man's
bow, and sent a shaft from it straight between the
HAZARIBAGH. 119
horseman’s shoulders, rolling him also over on the
ground. The whole thing was over in less time
than it takes to tell it ; but it impressed me greatly,
and even now I seem to see it, as I stood, a silent and
unwilling spectator, at the edge of the wood.”
We halted a couple of days at Chatra, where in
1858 the mutineers were worsted after a very stiff
fight with Rattray's Sikhs. The Mahunt of Chatra
is the head of the Sikh religion in this part of the
country, whither the faith of Guru Nanak (which pre-
vails throughout the Punjaub) has travelled and found
votaries and an abiding place. Here is strictly ob-
served the ritual of the sacred book, the “Grunth.”
The high-priest must not marry, but adopts a boy as
a “cheyla” or spiritual son, who inherits his sacred
office and his worldly wealth. The holy man, with
whom we had a ceremonious interview, was a young
fellow of not more than nineteen years of age, whose
spiritual father had died about two years previously.
The district offered fine opportunities for sport.
There were plenty of partridges, hares, and such-like
Small game, while deer of all sorts and big black
bears were also common. On one occasion I killed a
large hyaena, which surprised me by the enormous
size and power of its teeth and jaws, breaking with
one bite the stock of a gun. Wolves, too, were very
plentiful and destructive, in spite of a liberal head-
money paid by Government, and they committed cruel
outrages on the inhabitants. They were more cun-
ning and ferocious than tigers, and many painful
incidents were recorded against them. One that was
reported to me at Burhee by my police, struck me as
extraordinarily shocking.
120 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
A poor woman was walking home with her two
little children, having taken her husband's dinner to
him in a field where he was working. One child she
held in her arms, while the other toddled along hold-
ing her dress. A great wolf sprang from the thicket,
seized the child by her side, and carried it off into the
jungle. The distracted mother laid her infant on the
grass, and pursued the robber with shrieks and stones,
till a cry behind made her turn—a second wolf was
bearing off the babe.
Another anecdote I recorded which shows the
astonishing power of combined attack often displayed
by these dangerous beasts. Two men were returning
home by a jungle path after attending a neighbouring
market. One of them stopped for a moment to adjust
his load, and on again proceeding found his way
barred by a large wolf, which, however, did not seem
inclined to attack him. He shouted to his companion,
and stooped to pick up stones to frighten away the
animal. As he did so, a second wolf sprang on him
from behind; and had not his friend, who fortunately
was armed with a spear, come up quickly on hearing
his cries, he must have been killed. Between them
they killed one of the wolves, and the other made off.
This camp life made me acquainted with all manner
of expedients for procuring food. One day we
camped on the bank of a small stream, and our men
got us a dish of capital fish, by damming up the outlet
to a pool and throwing therein the leaves and bark
of some tree, which had the effect of stupefying
the fish. They floated in great numbers on the
surface of the pool, and were in no way injurious
when we came to eat them. While the men were
HAZARIBAGH. - 121
thus employed, I amused myself in feeding an ant-
lion, a curious small creature with a formidable
name, but with a body not larger than a flea. There
were scores of them in the sand, their dwelling-
places indicated by small funnel-shaped depressions,
at the apex of which the insect lay in ambush for any
ant or other small game which might chance to pass by.
If any such unwary one strayed near the treacherous
margin of these declivities, it was at once assaulted
by a tiny shower of sand from the unseen foe; and
should this attack cause it to lose its foothold and
slip downward, there was no hope of escape. The
miniature lion flirted forth volley after volley of
bewildering sand-grains, till he could seize his victim
and drag him into his den. After an interval the
Sapless carcass, sucked dry, would be ejected with a
flip from the hole, and the small ogre would readjust
his trap for the next comer.
We visited the great pilgrim road which lay to the
extreme north of the district, along which passed
crowds of devotees on their way to the holy place
Deoghur, where an annual gathering takes place in
February. A conducting and directing priest headed
each company of pilgrims, who shouted as they passed
us “Bhum ! Bhum Byjnath !”
This camp life was further made pleasant to me by
a visit from my brother, who came from England to
See me. Major B–— had returned to head-quarters,
and my brother and I continued our peregrinations
together. He was much interested in my strange
Surroundings, and often strolled off alone to see
the country and its people whilst I was occupied with
other matters. One evening, towards sunset, I had
-122 A Fily ON THE WHEEL.
finished my work and went out to look for him. I
had with me my single-barrelled rifle, on the chance
of seeing any deer, and sauntered along hoping to
meet him on his way back to dinner. About half a
mile from camp I heard a rustling among some
“bair” bushes on my left; thinking that probably
it was a cow from the village, I turned and peered
through the bushes. There I saw a fine black bear,
making his supper on the bair-berries which grew
plentifully there, and of which these animals are
inordinately fond. .
I at once cocked my rifle, and without reflecting
on the probable failure of a single ball, I aimed
through the leaves at his shoulder and rashly fired.
With a grunt and a plunge out he came, tearing
through the bushes, rearing on his hind legs, and
angrily looking round for his assailant. I had a
short glimpse of his white teeth and cavernous red
mouth, and then, remembering that I had an empty
gun and no knife with me, I turned and fled. I had
no idea before that I could run so fast; but the fierce
and vengeful gumph and growl at my heels was a
great incentive to speed. A man with two legs is,
however, no match for a bear with four; and I should
have probably felt the ardour of Bruin’s hug, had not
my headlong flight brought me to a deep and precipi-
tous cliff, down which I tumbled, and lay for a while
half-stunned by the fall, but rejoicing at my deliver-
ance: for the bear, whether it was that he was hard
hit and could not follow me, or that I vanished from
sight with a suddenness that he could not compre-
hend, certain it was that he retired to his jungle, and
I reached camp with fortunately no broken bones. We
HAZARIBAGH. 123
went out after him better armed the day following, but
although we found a slight track of blood for a short
distance, it soon became lost in the thick under-
wood.
Early in February we pitched our camp in a large
mango grove near the village of Kusmar, where was
a shrine of the blood-loving goddess Kali. Here had
lately been enacted a curious tragedy.
Five of the villagers of Kusmar had an enemy, a
common foe, resident in a neighbouring village, and
they agreed together to put an end to him. So one
day an opportunity presented itself, and they caught
their man in the jungle; and after taking council
together, they determined that, since he must die,
they might as well have the enormous merit of offer-
ing a human sacrifice to Kali. That goddess had not
tasted blood for a number of years, not, as a matter
of fact, since those disturbing English Sahibs began
to rule. So they took the poor creature, washed
him, perfumed him, dressed him in a saffron-coloured
robe, with garlands of flowers round his neck, and
then cut off his head before Kali, close by the ground
we had chosen for our camp. Three of these fellows
had been hanged; the other two had escaped into the
jungle, and there led a sylvan life as robbers and out-
laws. The escapade which had brought them under
my notice was of recent date and of an unusually
risky character ; for, meeting the clerk of the district
magistrate, ambling quietly along the high road on
his fat pony, and bearing important official docu-
ments, they knocked him out of his saddle and stripped
him to the skin. This ill-timed jest brought them
again prominently under police attention, and they
124 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
were accordingly tracked down and brought to
justice.
This part of the Hazaribagh district was closely
studded with Sonthal villages. They are an abori-
ginal people, dwellers in wild and hilly places, having
language, customs, and religion wholly different from
their Aryan conquerors the Hindoos.
Their dances were also peculiar and characteristic,
and offered many points of difference to the usual
nautch. At Kusmar a dance was performed in my
honour by the villagers which gave me the opportunity
of studying its peculiarities. First advanced with
measured steps a weazened old man, carrying a drum
nearly as big as himself, under the burden of which
he vainly strove to impart dignity to his bearing. He
was followed by a long shuffling string of Sonthal
women of all ages, sizes, and shapes, who proceeded
with a flat-footed and ungraceful shuffle, holding each .
other's hands. After an heroic struggle to make a
salaam to me, in which the big drum vindicated itself
and came out victorious, the leading drummer passed
on, and, joining the rank and file of those who closed
the procession took his post with them on the left, to
make music for the corn-dance of the harvest
festival. -
About two hundred women then formed themselves
in rows of twenties, swaying backwards and forwards
like a field of corn in the wind, and singing monoto-
nously as the throb of the drum rose and fell. All
were dark and swarthy in complexion, and although
the shapes of the younger women were graceful,
their faces, when visible, were not prepossessing.
The old women, who seemed most thoroughly to
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HAZARIBAGH. 125
enter into the spirit of the dance, were truly hideous
to look upon. One old dame I could have sworn was
in someone else’s skin. So loosely did the integu-
ment clothe her shrunken body, that one felt, had a
slit been made at the top, it would have fallen from
her like a garment. All wore necklaces of small red
beads strung in many rows, which enhanced the
blackness of the skin, whilst on wrist and ankle heavy
carved pewter bangles covered them six inches broad.
Some of the more distinguished elderly ladies wore,
attached to these bangles, small silver bells, and all
wore the universal “sari,” a long piece of home-spun
cotton cloth, with one end twisted round the loins and
falling to the ankles, while the other end was brought
up over the head and shoulders, whence it depended
in not ungraceful folds. The hair was taken lightly
back off the forehead, and twisted up at the left
side of the head, with fastenings of scarlet worsted
and tufts of many colours.
The first dance ended, there was a pause, when an-
other leader entered clad in a breech-cloth. He too
was old and battered, but wild-looking withal, and
with grey bristly hair that gave his head the appear-
ance of a blasted heath. Having salaamed deeply,
he signified that another band of women had arrived,
and desired permission to join in the festival. I
graciously assented, and after a short delay, the second
procession entered headed by a flute-player, a swarthy
old man of portentous gravity, whose whole attention
was devoted to his instrument, from which he elicited
sounds of the weirdest and most doleful description.
The lines of women now swayed to and fro in an
indescribable manner, the heavy pewter anklets clank-
126 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
ing with the rhythmic motion of the dancers' feet, and
their white drapery flowing gracefully as they saluted
the new comers. These quickly took their places
with the rest, and the dance recommenced in earnest.
The women, old and young, were ranged according
to age, the old crones on the right, passing down in
order to small girls of five or six years old on the
left of the lines.
There were now fifteen rows of dancers advancing,
retiring, swaying, and treading the measure with
their clanking feet. In front of each row male
musicians played drum, flute, and cymbals, while
leaping in the air and performing various monkey-
like contortions. The old men of the village walked
round and round the phalanx of women, keeping
palsied time to the measure of the dance, and one
old anatomy had strings of bells tied to his sharp
withered shanks.
The drums were of various shapes and sizes. They
were made of earthenware with wolf-skin stretched
across. Some were semi-spheres like kettle-drums;
others were long and cylindrical, tapering to the two
ends. The exterior protection to the earthenware
was made of twine, twisted and woven in strange
patterns, and daubed with streaks of vermilion. The
patriarch and director of the assembly stood in the
midst, leaning on a staff, with long grizzled locks
floating over his shoulders as he chaunted the
harvest song.
There was also a clown or funny-man, who stood
beside the patriarch and shot forth jests between
strophe and antistrophe, yet reserving sufficient
energy to lead the chorus with fit and proper em-
HAZARIBAGH. 127
phasis. From time to time he appeared before my
chair and favoured me with choice, but unfortunately
incomprehensible morceaua, rushing back with re-
newed energy to posture and prank before the rows
of dancers, to whom he sang with wondrous accom-
panying waves of leg and arm. The final measure
of the dance imitated cutting the corn, and was
specially pretty, I entertained the whole party with
sweetmeats and strong waters, which I left them to
enjoy while I sought refuge from the hum and clatter
in the quiet of my tent.
128 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER V.
HAZARIBAGH (continued).
1863–64.
“SAHIB | Sahib l’ droned my bearer. A pause
ensued, during which I slept vigorously and answered
not a word. -
“Sahib l’’ he reiterated, taking possession of one
of my feet and proceeding to put a sock thereon.
“Oh bother l’” I replied. “Jao go away ! There
is no kutcherry (office) this morning.”
Another pause, during which I regain possession
of my foot and try to persuade myself that I am not
awake. Alas! my persevering domestic captures the
other foot, and I feel that I must rouse myself.
“Sahib, the Daroga has come.”
“Tell him to go away again.”
“He says his business is urgent and deserves
attention.” - - -
“Well, well, don't bother. Fetch the chillumchee
and some water, and order ‘chota hazaree.’”
So, after a good sponging of cold water and a cup
of tea, I am ready for an interview with the Daroga,
my head police-officer in the neighbourhood, Rahmun
Khan by name, Mussulman by religion, and Pathan
by caste. In he came, bearded and shawled, his
HAZARIBAG.H. 129
tulwar slung to his side, and an old-fashioned flint-
locked pistol in his girdle; an oldish man, with a grave
expression of face and piercing dark brown eyes.
His beard had been some days neglected, as witness
the grey showing at the roots; but he ordinarily
dyed it, first with indigo and then with the red
mehdi root, together producing the jet black colour
which it usually showed. .
“ Khodawunda, Salaam
“Salaam, Daroga Sahib | What is your news?”
“Your Highness, I have intelligence that Ragwa
Karmali, who robbed the Depti-Kampshner's writer,
is in a village about fifteen miles from here. The
bringer of tidings awaits your pleasure outside the
tent. His name is Nimai, and he is a wood-cutter
of that village.”
“What do you think is his motive in giving infor-
mation ?”
“Ragwa wishes to marry Nimai’s daughter, whether
he will or no, and although he is a poor man, yet he
would preserve his honour.”
“Yes ; and get the reward for Ragwa's capture
also, eh, Daroga P”
“What shall your slave reply 2 The wise man
does not speak of all he does, but does nothing that
cannot be spoken of P’’ -
The next question was how to capture the villain.
The Daroga was in favour of commissioning Nimai's
daughter to drug him, in which condition he could
easily be taken. I represented, however, that this
expedient was not only dangerous, but contrary
to law; we arranged, therefore, to try a surprise.
There was no use setting off with a large party,
| y,
9
130 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
as Ragwa would be sure to hear of it from some
of his scouts; so I charged the Daroga to be ready
at nightfall, with three of his best men, to accom-
pany me. -
“We will start to-night, after the moon has gone
down, so have all ready and say nothing. The secret
of two is a good secret,” I added ; “the secret of
three is nobody’s secret, so keep Nimai quiet and out
of the way.”
“My Lord, be it upon my head and eyes | * So
saying, he departed.
My orders were faithfully carried out. Nimai's
information proved correct. We surprised and cap-
tured Ragwa in his sleep, and had him safely hand-
cuffed and locked up in a granary, before 6 o'clock
the next morning.
My tents had followed us, and were pitched and
ready before I had finished my work. I had to remain
a day or two, to collect evidence and arrange for the
witnesses attending before the magistrate at head-
quarters. .
The day had passed quickly and busily away, and
the moon was sinking in yellow haze by the time my
dinner was over, and I strolled out to the men’s
camp-fire to congratulate my good old Daroga, and
have a chat with him about the old stories and
legends in which his soul delighted. He rose at my
approach, bidding the men pile on more wood, and
bring a fresh bundle of rice-straw for the Sahib to
sit upon.
“ Khair! Well,” said I, “I think, Daroga Sahib,
that our little capture was very well managed. I
will take care that you and your men are rewarded,
HAZARIBA.G.H. 131
That Ragwa was a dangerous miscreant. I hope
none of you got hurt in the struggle.”
“No, Sahib. He tried to knife me, but Asadullah
here caught his arm in a trice.”
“Well, well ; it was a good business, and Nimai
shall have his blood-money when I return to Hazari-
bagh. But now for pleasanter things. Who will sing
me a song or tell me a story P”
“May it please you,” said the Daroga, “Shaikh
Jaffer is a singer of incomparable merit, and he will
doubtless be proud to exhibit his proficiency.”
Here Shaikh Jaffer modestly disappeared behind
his comrades, but was pushed again to the front,
complimented, and encouraged, and after many ex-
cuses about his “ owl-like voice not being worthy to
be heard,” and difficulties on the score of accom-
paniment, he briefly recited the “Kulma,” or pro-
fession of faith, by way of prelude, and started off in
a high falsetto, “Ah! ay—y ! ai—u !” with pro-
longed quavering. “Oh come to me !”—grand shake
here in crescendo—“Come, come, flower of my heart;
beauty is a flower that lasts but a day !”
“Eh—ah !” from the Daroga, as one experienced
in such matters.
“Beauty, alas ! is a frail flower. The beauty of
woman endureth but a season, and then fades away
like a plucked lotus. Come, then ; come, now ! We
are young, and we have love.”
“Ai–yi !” ejaculates the Daroga, with an em-
phatic clap of his hands, and a glance round the
circle, as if ratifying the singer's sentiments with his
entire approval. I also applauded, hoping the song
was at an end. But no; like the salt-mill in the
9 *
132 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
fairy-tale, which endlessly grinds salt at the bottom
of the sea, so Shaikh Jaffer, once set a-going, warmed
to his work, and continued his high quaverings in
endless contortions, until fortunately, in his ſervour,
he extended his leg too far and burnt it slightly in
the fire, which turned his “ Ai’s ” into another channel,
and gave my ears relief.
I took advantage of the pause to ask the Daroga
to tell us a story. He acquiesced more readily than
I expected.
“Your servant, Sahib, recalls at this moment but
one story, and that is about His Highness Suleiman
(Solomon), the son of Daoud (David), and the hoo-
poes, showing why these birds wear a crown.
“Solomon the King sat in his treasure-house and
beheld all his wealth and precious things which lay
before him. Behold ! there was silver and gold in
plenty, even as stones, and cedar-wood like the syca-
mores of the vale in abundance. Yea; cunning work
was there in gold and silver, in brass and in iron,
with woven stuffs of crimson, blue, and purple, and
the walls of the house were garnished with precious
stones and gold, even the gold of Parvaim.
“One thing above all was precious in the eyes of
the great King, next to his signet, the insignum of
wisdom; he valued it even unto the worth of half
his kingdom. It lay before him now at his feet.
Only a small square carpet, glowing with colours,
like as the sign-bow of the heavens, or the hues
of the flowers in Paradise, or the tints of the forests
under the Ocean. In length this carpet was six cubits
and in breadth six cubits, six cubits every way as it
lay before the King. It was bordered with work of
£IAZARIBAGH. 133
the flowers of lilies and of pomegranates, and the
centre of each flower was a gem of great price,
worth a king's ransom.
“Now, as the King gazed thereon, the sounds of
the harps and psalteries came faintly from the Temple,
the Holy Place, stirring the air of the treasure-
chamber, and making it rich with floating waves of
melody. And the King communed with himself and
said, “Werily, by the goodness of Hiram, King of
Tyre, many of these precious things have been
gathered together. It would be fitting that I see
him and we talk together.’
“And Solomon summoned the slaves of his house-
hold and commanded, “Gather me this carpet to-
gether and spread it upon the house-top.’ So they
gathered it, and the King reclined thereon ; and lo!
a great wind came, even a mighty wind, and the
carpet rose and went upon the wind, and ascended
up from the house-top, passing from the sight of the
beholders. And they stroked their beards, placing
the finger of astonishment in the mouth of wonder-
ment, and saying, ‘God is great, and mighty is the
King, even King Solomon, the son of David I'
“Now it came to pass, as Solomon journeyed
through the air, that the sun burned with a great
heat, and the King was sorely oppressed, as from a
flame of fire. He thought upon the shady gardens
and fountains of Jerusalem, and as he did so, Shrik-
nad, the King of the Vultures, swooped near and
made obeisance. Then said Solomon, ‘Summon now
thy servants, and cause them to shade me with their
broad wings, for the summer heat consumeth me.”
And Shriknad replied, “O my lord thy servant is
134 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
grieved that he cannot help you in this matter, for
the vultures are gathered together at a carcass, and
will not leave it.’
“Then the King saw that he was mocked, and he
was wroth with Shriknad, and cursed him, saying,
‘Lo you, now, thy head and the heads of thy race
shall be defenceless and bare to the sun, even as the
naked rock, and the heat shall pursue thee, and where
the sun beats most fiercely, there shall be thy abiding-
place l’
“And Shriknad shrivelled within himself, and
became as nothing before the wrath of the great
King, and the feathers fell from his head and neck
till he became hideous to look upon, and his wings
failed him from shame and fear, and he fell to the
ground. º
“Yet a little while passed, and a flock of hoopoes
came gaily fluttering by, and they saw that the King
was consumed by heat. Then Luli, their leader,
said, ‘My brothers, it is not meet that the great
King should faint with the heat whilst we feel it not.
Let us hasten to do him service, and that right gladly,
that the King's heart may be turned to his servants.’
So the hoopoes banded themselves together, flying
above King Solomon, and with their wings they
sheltered him from the sun, even unto his journey’s
end. Then Solomon was glad, and called to Luli,
saying, “Truly thou hast well done, and I am, pleased
with thee and thy fellows. Now, whatsoever thou
shalt ask of me I will give it.’ And the hoopoes
bowed themselves before the King, and said, ‘O
Light of the World ! if thy servants find favour in
thy sight, grant that we may have crowns of gold
HAZARIBAGH. 135
upon our heads and upon our children's heads for
ever, so that all may know that we have served the
mighty King.’
“And Solomon bowed his head, and said, ‘Let it
be so.’ And it came to pass that on each bird’s head
there sprang up a tiny golden crown, which glittered
and sparkled in the sunshine, and was very fair to
look upon. So the hoopoes went forth from before
the King, rejoicing greatly. *
“Now the noise of this thing spread abroad among
the children of men, and the lust of gain was in their
hearts; and every man's hand was against the hoopoes
for the sake of their crowns, and the slaughter was
very great. Then with sad hearts they gathered
together to take council about this thing which had
befallen them.
“Then spoke Babek, a long-tailed bird, well
stricken in days, “Hearken, O hoopoes | There was
once a poor man who had a white elephant, which
he loved as his own son. Now the Raja of that
country heard of that elephant, and of the many
wonderful qualities which it possessed, and he said
that if he did not become its owner he would die of
grief. He therefore sent for the man and for his
elephant, and spoke unto him, “What is the price of
this elephant of elephants? Speak | My liver is
perishing with longing to possess the beast of beasts.
What wilt thou take for it P ''
“‘“Perfume of the Atmosphere ! ” returned the
poor man, with seven thousand Salaams, “my ele-
phant is my mother and my father, my child and my
children’s children. By the eye-lashes of Indra, I
will take nothing on earth for my elephant.”
136 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
“‘“So be it,” said the protector of the poor. “No-
thing shalt thou have, since it is thy wish. Slaves,
lead the elephant to the royal stables, and dismiss
this man with many kicks. So shall he have even
more than he asks.” See, then, O hoopoes, how
wisely the Raja came out of this difficult matter.
Let us, then, go and lay our case before Raja Sulei-
man, that he may decide for us.” Then Luli, the
leader of the hoopoes, having scratched his head and
adjusted his double crown of gold, said, “O birds,
Babek has spoken wisely. I am reminded of a
monkey I once saw sitting in the forest cracking
nuts. At last he came to an obdurate one. He
tried it broadways, he tried it longways, he tried it
every way, but the nut remained as before. “This
is a very hard nut to crack,” said the monkey.
Babek, however—may his tail never be less l—has, I
think, cracked the nut of our difficulty. Let us
consult the wisdom of the great Raja, even Raja
Suleiman.’
“So they went before him. Then said Solomon,
‘What will ye, O hoopoes?' And they told him
how the hand of every man was against them by
reason of their crowns. - -
“Then said the King, “O foolish ones | I foresaw
that this would come upon you, even on the day you
made petition, on the day of the sun-shielding.’
“Then he smiled and waved his hand, and the
golden crowns changed, and became as feathers that
are of gold, but still are feathers, and no gain to any
man. So the hoopoes departed rejoicing, and praising
the goodness and the wisdom of Solomon, the son of
David.”
HAZARIBAGH. 137
I thanked the Daroga for his story, and retired to
my tent, having no mind for further vocal melody,
but far into the night I was dreamily conscious of
Shaikh Jaffer's shakes and quavers. - -
On returning to Hazaribagh, I found an unwel-
come summons from my Colonel, calling upon me
to rejoin my regiment, the 104th, as there was a
lack of officers. I had no mind to return to the dull
monotony of regimental life, and therefore submitted
to Government a respectful application to be per-
mitted to join the Bengal Staff Corps, and reported
my action in the matter to the Colonel of my regi-
ment, waiting meanwhile for further orders.
As the rainy season set in, the criminals of the
district roused themselves to greater activity, hoping,
doubtless, to escape pursuit owing to the difficulty of
travelling. But
Naught cared this body for wind and weather,
When youth and I lived in 't together;
and I rode sometimes forty miles a day, investigating
and following up serious cases of murder and robbery.
There were hitches and difficulties also with the police,
and cases of insubordination and mutiny requiring
immediate repression and punishment. I was fairly
successful in my work, taking prisoner sixteen out of
a band of forty miscreants who had been committing
serious highway robberies on the Grand Trunk Road,
sixty miles of which I had to patrol and keep in safety
for travellers. -
On this expedition it was necessary to travel with
extreme secrecy. I started off with only ten of my
best men, all well armed. We went on foot, and,
138 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the better to escape observation, I wore native clothes
during the three weeks we were out, and fared in all
respects like One of my own men, eating rice and
chupatees, and marching an average of sixteen miles.
a day. Our final march, when we closed on the
band was one of twenty-five miles. We carried no
tent, but slept each night where we could, often
under a tree in the jungle.
I returned to Hazaribagh in high spirits, for we
had not only taken sixteen, but learnt the names of
many more of the outlaws.
I greatly enjoyed riding quietly back after the cap-
ture, in spite of the torrents of rain that fell without
intermission. The whole adventure seemed like a
dream. The night marches through dense jungle;
the surroundings of men's houses in the early grey
dawn; the scuffles, fightings; the denials and search-
ings; and the patter-patter of the rain, which was
a never-failing monotonous accompaniment of the
whole expedition. I carried no luggage save a
bundle of absolute necessaries; and one evening,
when the rain was unusually heavy, in order to keep
my one suit of outer garments from being absolutely
soaked, I took off all mythings, wrapping each article
up in big leaves, and sat with only a waist-cloth on,
the rain pouring down on my bare head and shoulders
like a heavy shower-bath. But the rain brightened
and refreshed the land, which bloomed out into myriad
beauties. Insect life, too, was busy, and I often
amused myself watching the tiny creatures. A green
leaf seemingly taking a walk ; chameleons darting
about with changeful hue ; or an important cocked-
hatted beetle, which occupied its time in propelling
HAZARIBAGH. 139
pellets of cow-dung, standing on its head and
working with its hind legs.
My friendly superior officer, Major B–, greeted
me warmly when I reached the station, and congratu-
lated me on the success of our little foray.
My efforts at keeping order and promoting honesty
had not always so pleasant a termination. One
morning early I received a hurried note from a high-
placed Government official, to say that a burglary
had been committed during the night and his wife's
jewels stolen. He asked me to investigate the case
fully and at once, with a view to the recovery of the
property and the punishment of the thief.
I proceeded accordingly to the house. The lady
herself was in bed and could not see me, but her ayah
informed me that the jewels had been kept, with some
silver spoons, in a box under the bed occupied by
her master and mistress, she herself sleeping in a
Small bath-room opening on the bed-room, and in the
same apartment two pet dogs also passed the night.
The box had been found in the morning empty
beside the bed, and showed signs of having been
forced open by some sharp-pointed instrument.
I thoroughly examined the premises, and set spies
in the bazaar with curious results. In the first place,
I found that the dogs had not barked, but passed a quiet
night. It was true that the iron gauze outside the
pantry window had been cut away, but no marks of
violence or footsteps were visible outside, while in the
bushes near, one of the police discovered a stout pair
of Scissors freshly broken, the points of which fitted
into the marks on both box and window. On search-
ing the house of the chief goldsmith in the bazaar
140 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the jewels were found in his strong-box. I pointed
out to him the serious position in which he was placed
by this discovery, and he then stated that the jewels
were sold to him by the lady's ayah, who, in her turn,
on being threatened with the law, confessed that she
had sold them by her lady's own orders. The result
was an unpleasant one to communicate to the lady's
husband. It appeared that, being heavily in debt and
afraid of her husband, she had sold the jewels, and
tried to cover their absence, which he would be sure
to note, by a pretended robbery. They shortly after
left the district and I saw them no more. .
The remnants of the band I had attacked, with
their leader, a brave, clever scoundrel, named Jherria
Rajwar, were still at large, and one day I spent an
hour vainly in trying to elicit information against
them from a poor wretch whose house had been plun-
dered ; the only answers he returned to my queries
being, “Ah! but I fear much, Sahib l’’ or, “They
will be sure to come back and kill me if I say any-
thing”; and lastly, “I am very poor, my lord; they
have taken all !” To explain this last plaintive
remark, I should add that the custom among the old
police had been to exact a handsome gratuity from
anyone who had been robbed, in default of which the
sufferer was made to suffer more by long journeyings,
tedious attendances, and providing food for the police
during their protracted investigations, than by the
original loss. So the poor man feared that I too.
meant to plunder him.
At last I spied his wife with a child in her arms
peeping at me from an inner room, so I said in a
loud voice, “Ah! they beat your little boy, the
HAZARIBAGH. 141
scoundrels l’” The wife emerged a little from her
obscurity to listen. “And you say they assaulted
your wife, and made her show her face—the villains!”
“It is false | Who said so?” And with this out
came the wife, forgetting alike both fear and poverty,
and indignantly told me all she knew.
The robbers it appeared had, as their custom was,
tied up their faces in cloths to avoid recognition ;
but the woman averred, and her husband did not
contradict her, that the leader of the robbers was
Jherria Rajwar. -
Jherria Rajwar, therefore, must be hunted down.
I collected all the evidence I could, and made a careful
list of the missing property, and set to work. The
task was no easy one. He was a convicted dacoit, .
who had been released when the mutineers broke
open the prison gates at Gya, and made a general jail
deliverance. When order was restored he continued
living in the jungle as an outlaw, subsisting by rob-
bery, and only occasionally visiting his native village,
which was situated on the outskirts of the district, in
a hilly gorge near the Sacred place known as the
Dripping Well.
I had to approach this locality very cautiously, in
order to gain information of his whereabouts; so
under pretence of returning to Hazaribagh, we left
the village where the robbery had been committed,
and after marching for some hours till daylight was
spent, we took to the jungle and camped for the
night.
As we lay under some trees, rolled in our blankets,
a great black bear came grubbing for food close by.
It was bright moonlight, and I watched his proceed-
142 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
ings for some time without stirring, not wishing to
attract his attention ; but my men soon became aware
of the unwelcome visitor, and raised the cry, “A
bear, a bear !”
“Ahil bap-ré bap! Oh, my father go and drive
him away !” said a timorous voice from under a
blanket close by. e
On this Rahmut-ullah Khan, a fine young Mussul-
man, who formed one of my party, arose, and seizing
a large two-handled sword, with measured steps
approached the bear, addressing the animal as he
advanced.
“Ah! dastardly robber of honey, the skin of whose
father is my sitting-place | Oh! white-livered son of a
pig’s mother l will you dare to abide my coming P”
Now, whether it was the gleaming sword which he
brandished in a flashing circle round his head, or
the torrent of abuse, which scared Mr. Bruin, I
know not; certain it is, that the bear gazed for a
moment, grunting uneasily, and then turned and fled.
Camp life has its unexpected luxuries as well as its
hardships. I remember on this occasion a memorable
bath, when on returning one morning to our camping-
ground after a long and fruitless walk under a hot sun,
I found my men had scooped out for me in the soft
white sand of a clear streamlet an oval hollow, large
enough to lie in at full length, and here the pure cool
spring water, filled with sunlight and shimmering
reflections of green leaves, seemed to bring new life
into my wearied limbs. I lay there with my face
only out of the water, watching the bright dragon-
flies dance hither and thither round the gnarled trunk
of an old semul tree, among whose roots my bath
HAZARIBAGH. 143
was made ; while out and beyond, through the green
boughs, was the intense blue of a cloudless Indian
sky, telling of the glare and heat without and giving
additional zest to the shady coolness of the streamlet.
The breakfast which followed was equally delightful
in its way. Rice of snowy whiteness, boiled to a turn,
and served on a large platter of green leaves; a cake
of unleavened bread, hot and crisp off the wood
embers; chutney made of fresh pepper and lemon-
rind, some fruit, and a glass of sweet fresh milk.
We were getting hot in our pursuit of Jherria
Rajwur, and hoped to surprise him by a night attack.
I had learnt from a cow-herd that he was in the im-
mediate vicinity of the Dripping Well of Mhaka with
fifteen of his men, and we approached with caution,
our party only numbering nine, including myself.
It was dark, and we lay down to rest for a few
hours before attacking him.
“What hour is it, Rahmut Khan P’’
“Your highness, I cannot exactly say, as there
are no clocks in the wilderness; but I believe it to be
exactly midnight.”
“Why do you say exactly P”
“Because at that time of night only, does the air
flow with even freedom through both of a man's
nostrils.”
I essayed this new mode of time-measurement, and
found truly that I did breathe equally through both
my nostrils; so we agree that it is probably midnight.
Our movements had been speedy, and we were within
a mile of the robber's lair ; still, great caution was
needed, as they might have heard of our coming, and
be on the look out,
144 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
“They would all be asleep now, Sahib, under
ordinary circumstances; but with the rumour that
your honour is out, you may be sure they will keep
a good guard. We ought not to reach the Dripping
Well until the morning star shows himself there,”
pointing to the eastern sky. . .
Before us lay a long range of low rocky hills,
clothed from base to crown with thick jungle mixed
with large forest trees, which stretched east and west
as far as the eye could see, save for a break in the
line just in front of us. Here the range suddenly
fell in height, sweeping back in a great amphitheatre.
The foot of the hills was belted with thick brush-
wood, through which we had to pass before reaching
the well. We could almost follow with the eye the
track along which our path would lie, until the steep
ascent was closed by a perpendicular wall of rock,
curving round in a semi-circle to where a large
peepul tree marked the gully up which the path led
to a natural terrace above. Here was situated a small
cave, whence, out of the heart of the rock, welled
forth, crystal-clear, the spring which gave the place its
name of the Dripping Well. The spot was held sacred
by the inhabitants of the village of Mhaka, whose
dwellings were dimly discernible at the foot of the
hills. The spring never dried up, even in the hottest
season, and its waters were famed for the cure of all
sorts of sickness and disease.
Here had collected the remnants of the nest of
robbers which had for so long harassed the district.
The rascals had with great astuteness confined their
depredations to distant forays, or to robberies com-
mitted on strangers and wayfarers, and by so doing
HAZARIBAG.H. 145
had preserved the goodwill of the country people in
the vicinity, who doubtless benefited by the plunder,
and who supplied them with food and helped to
screen them from too pressing inquiries.
Acting on Rahmut Khan's advice, we remained
quiet for another three hours, and then, the morning
star having taken up the required position, we looked
to our arms and cautiously made for the pass leading
to the Dripping Well.
On commencing the steep ascent, one of the con-
stables, who was somewhat corpulent and short of
breath, took to puffing and groaning in a manner
which threatened to frustrate all our precautions. I
therefore pulled his ears heartily, and bade him stay
behind.
We crept along so quietly that we gained the
terrace before any alarm was given, and came
in sight of the great tree, underneath which
Smouldered the embers of a fire. Then there was
a shout, and, as we rushed in, a number of recum-
bent figures sprang up from around the fire, and
two flashes with sharp reports told us they were
armed.
There was a scramble and a scurry, and catch who
catch can. I followed a man who had been lying a
little apart from the rest, and Rahmut Khan followed
me. The fellow tried to bolt along the terrace, but
we were too quick for him, and cut off his retreat
that way. He then faced up the cliff, but with a
quick rush I caught him by the leg. He turned on
me, and with a wrench and a twist sent me heavily
down on to the rocks. I was stunned by the fall;
and when I came to myself I found I was lying by
- 10
146 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the spring, with aching head and bruised shoulders,
and a wet cloth round my temples.
Three of the robbers had been captured, and sat
sullenly on the ground, each man's right thumb being
tightly bound with small cord to his neighbour's left,
and their legs tied in like manner. A villager or
two, from Mhaka, disturbed by the noise, had come
up, and stood with some of my men looking at the
dead body of one of the robbers which lay at their
feet.
“Well, Rahmut Khan,” I asked, “ have we taken
Jherria P”
“No, Sahib,” answered the Darogah, “the villain
has, I fear, again escaped us. But I settled the man
who threw you.”
“My lord,” said one of the villagers, pointing to
the dead man, “this is Jherria Rajwar !”
This expedition did much to check highway rob-
bery, which had hitherto been conducted openly and
with violence, even along the Grand Trunk Road,
and in spite of police patrol. But I had still to deal
with another class of criminals, who first drugged and
afterwards robbed their victims.
Their mode of proceeding was ingenious. An in-
sinuating and seemingly harmless wayfarer would
join himself to a band of pilgrims, asking permission
to do so, being solitary and afraid of robbers. He
was seemingly a Brahmin, wearing the sacred thread
and taking direction of the cooking, with an assump-
tion that could only belong to the priestly class. For
a few days all would go well, but one night, after
camping in a lonely place, all the party after supper
would fall into an unaccountable stupor. The insinu-
HAZARIBA.G.H. 147
ating Brahmin had drugged the food, and they are
fortunate if on awaking they find even the clothes
remain to them on their backs. -
In October, I undertook a thorough inspection of
the Grand Trunk Road, with a view to making it safer
for travellers; and as the Government executive
engineer was bent on a similar errand of inspection,
with respect to the bridges and metalling, we joined
forces and travelled together in a dāk carriage.
From Hazaribagh to Burhee we were drawn by
relays of men, who tugged the vehicle along; but
at Burhee we struck the Trunk Road, and became
dependent for locomotion on the dāk horses, which
were kept at post-stages along the whole length
of the road by contractors, who undertook the
conveyance of passengers and goods up and down
country. These horses, as might be expected, were
of a soured and evil disposition, their faith in human
nature gone, having indeed but one fixed idea—the
determination not to drag a dāk carriage.
It was a curious sight to see the contractor and his
grooms start our carriage. The horses were blind-
folded in their stable, and in this condition were
inveigled into the shafts. As soon as they recog-
nised what had happened to them they commenced
jibbing, and were only induced to reverse this process
by forcibly backing the carriage, and thus making
them believe that we wished to proceed in the con-
trary direction. They would then dash madly for-
ward at a gallop, urged on by the driver to top
speed; at this pace they were kept, if possible, for
the seven miles which intervened between the posting
stations,
10 *
148 - A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
We halted from time to time at the dāk bunga-
lows, which a beneficent Government had established
at intervals along the road, where we cooked our
meals by means of a portable Soyer's magic stove.
The bungalow servant, who usually cooked for tra-
vellers, watched our proceedings with admiration and
awe, keeping as near the door as possible, in case the
evil spirit confined in our conjuring apparatus should
escape control. On one occasion, when my compa-
nion spilt some spirits of wine and a blue flare-up
ensued, there was a regular stampede among the
on-lookers, who fled precipitately, invoking the
protection of Allah.
We ascended Parisnath, a sacred mountain situated
in the Hazaribagh district, which is the resort of pil-
grims from far and wide. My companion had to
report on a scheme which was then under considera-
tion for establishing here a sanitorium for Europeans,
the hill being of considerable altitude and within
comparatively easy reach from Calcutta.
On the way, we passed through a mighty flight of
locusts, in such numbers that the earth was shadowed
for twenty minutes, as if by a dark thunder-cloud.
Their legs and bodies were red with black articula-
tions, and metallic black-striped wings. It was an
awe-inspiring sight, this host of insects; one felt that,
had they chosen to settle on a man, their millions
of small powerful jaws would soon make an end of
him.
My friend Major B–, the Deputy-Commissioner,
with whom I had worked so amicably, had gone on
leave, and I did not find his successor so pleasant to
deal with. A new assistant magistrate had also been
HAZARIBA.G.H. 149
posted at Burhee, who seemed to regard all police
and police superintendents as his natural enemies. I
had never met this gentleman; but because I sent
for some natives to take down their depositions in a
robbery case, instead of myself riding some thirty
miles to their various houses, he reported me to
Government for having grossly infringed the law,
and asked the High Court at Calcutta to authorise
my trial for having illegally confined these persons.
The matter was referred to the Commissioner of
the Division for orders; but in the meantime the
natives were quick to notice and take advantage of
difference of opinion among their rulers, and I very
soon found my authority weakened. “What can
your Sahib do?” asked a man whom my constables
arrested for drunken brawling, “the magistrate Sahib
will protect me. Look to yourself.” And, in truth,
it was woe to the policeman who was brought before
that functionary.
In the East, where to bear false witness is the
usual condition of things, it sufficed for the magis-
trate in authority to show any bias against the police
and criminal investigation became paralysed. My
policemen were afraid to act, for fear of the false
charges which were sure to be brought against them,
and the heavy sentences which were as sure to follow.
With the departure of my kind friend Major B
my luck seemed to desert me, and an unfortunate
occurrence which happened about this time still
further depressed my fortunes.
My assistant, Mr. E——, had gone out by my
orders to investigate a case of robbery, and a man
whom he had arrested died suddenly while in
150 - A Fi, Y ON THE WHEEL.
custody. The relatives of the deceased accused
Mr. E. of being concerned in the man's death,
in having incited the police to administer the
flogging under which he died. This was a terribly
serious matter, and I at once proceeded to investigate
it thoroughly. After a long inquiry, I came to the
conclusion that although Mr. E–— had been grossly
negligent in his supervision of the police under his
charge, yet he had no personal cognizance of the
illegalities which had been committed. There was,
however, no doubt that the man's death had been
hastened, if not actually caused, by the violence to
which he had been subjected.
The case was to be heard and decided upon by
the Deputy Commissioner; so I wrote demi-officially
to my Deputy Inspector-General, giving him an out-
line of the case, and saying that I would report fully
in official form as soon as the magisterial decision had
been given. I did not report at once officially in my
own department, hoping that at the trial things might
prove more favourable for poor E , who had not
a sixpence in the world if he lost his appointment;
and, remembering the proverb, “A bad wound
heals, but a bad name kills,” I did not wish until it
became absolutely necessary to report the charge of
murder against him. At any rate, I acted according
to my lights; and so, doubtless, did the Deputy
Commissioner, who brought the whole matter to the
notice of Government, commenting most unfavourably
on E 's conduct, and doubtless on mine also, for
I was thunderstruck one morning at receiving an
official letter from the Secretary to the Government
of Bengal, characterising my conduct as evasive and
IIAZARIBAGH. 151
untrustworthy, and stating further that, in the opinion
of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, I was unfit to
hold charge of a district.
I replied at once, respectfully but firmly setting
forth my own views of the case, and I concluded my
letter by saying that, should my explanation be
deemed unsatisfactory on this the first time that any
action of mine had been disapproved, I begged to
tender my resignation of the Service.
It seemed hard to receive so sharp and sweeping a
reprimand, after such unsparing efforts as I had made
for the good of the district committed to my charge.
At the worst, it was an error of judgment, which
would not have occurred but for the known hostility
of the civil servants, which prevented any consulta-
tion with them on district matters. Poor E––
was dismissed, and I saw him afterwards in London
literally starving.
It is an old adage, “Kick a man when he's
down,” and, the Deputy Commissioner of Hazaribagh
having been so successful in his attack, his sub-
ordinate, the Assistant Magistrate at Burhee, thought
he would try his hand at a throw with the hated
policeman. His first complaint, as to my illegal
action in summoning witnesses, brought him only a
sharp rap over the knuckles, in the shape of a com-
munication from the Commissioner of the Division,
saying that the tone of his letter was most objection-
able. Smarting under this rebuke, and still further
embittered against me, he issued peremptory orders
for me to appear and give evidence before him in
a case which I had investigated, but where the
evidence of my subordinates was quite sufficient.
152 A FLY ON THE WEIEEL.
Having received orders to visit the southern part
of my district, I replied expressing my regret at not
being able to appear in person, but that I would
reply by post to any questions he might wish to put.
On this the gentleman issued a formal warrant for
my arrest ! I at once placed the matter in the hands
of higher authority, and the young official's warrant
being quashed, he applied for leave on private affairs.
While I was waiting for the decision of Govern-
ment, I sought to divert my thoughts from the cares
which oppressed me, by going out against the outlaws
in the southern part of my district, hoping to make
a clearance of them there as I had done in the north.
He who measures oil gets some on his fingers, and
the worry and trouble which had come upon me
having told on my health, I found it a relief to leave
the society of my fellows and enjoy the solitude of
camp life. How delightful it was, instead of dining
decorously at mess in formal dress, to sit in my little
square tent and partake of a tender joint of the kid
that but yesterday had been tethered to one of the
tent-pegs, while the chickens destined for the cutlets
and soups of my to-morrow’s dinner clucked and
cackled from a basket hard by. Whilst I dined,
some villagers outside smoked a friendly “chillum ”
of tobacco with my Saice and his attendant grass-
cutter. They were Sonthals come to give me news of
a bear or a deer, for the Sonthals are the great hunters
of these parts, and are almost the only natives that
are not afraid of the wolves, sweeping the jungles
in great hunting parties of two and three hundred,
killing whatever happens to come in their way, even
the big black bear if they chance to start one. It
HAZARIBAGH. 153
takes five or six of their number to manage him, for
while the bear pursues one of their number the others
follow on either side, striking at him with the small
axe which each man carries, and diverting his attention
from one to another until they manage to cripple or
kill the beast. No one man is a match for the great
black bear, unless armed with a double-barrelled rifle.
The bear, in attacking a man, always aims at the face
with his great claws, and I have seen some horrible
cases of disfigurement; but he is naturally a peace-
able beast, and I will do him the justice of saying
that he rarely, if ever, makes an unprovoked attack.
The Sonthals live chiefly on the proceeds of the
chase, their wives cultivating the land in small
patches for food. They are a manly race, and I had
a criminal case to investigate on this occasion which
was sufficiently striking to record here.
A young Sonthal, a fine handsome young fellow,
standing six feet high, wished to marry, but unfor-
tunately lacked the money to furnish the indispensable
wedding feast. The natural Sonthal mode of earning
money, of course, occurred to him, and so he waited
and watched, searching the jungles early and late,
until he slew a tiger and could claim the Government
reward of ten rupees. Then the much-wished-for
marriage was celebrated, with all the magnificence
that ten rupees could afford, with much beating of
drums, blowing of flutes, and libations of the juice
of the “mowa.”
The ceremony being concluded, the newly-wedded
pair settled down to their joint life, she to cultivate
the ground near her husband's hut, and he to hunt.
One day, returning early from hunting, he saw a
154 - A Fily ON THE WHEEL.
man, a former and, he feared, a favoured rival, stand-
ing talking with his wife. He concealed his suspicion
at the time, but the next day, instead of hunting as
usual, he returned after a short time and concealed
himself in a tree which commanded the path to his
house.
Soon the lover appeared, and glancing round cau-
tiously, entered the house. The husband waited for
a while, then, descending from the tree, grasped his
spear, and going stealthily to his house, surprised and
killed with one blow the two guilty ones. His wife
he buried decently, with a groan and a sigh. He
then cut off his rival's head, and casting the body to
the pigs and dogs, he carried the head to the nearest
magistrate, recounted what had happened, and re-
quested to be hanged. He was imprisoned for life.
While I was still out in the district, the orders of
Government reached me. My resignation was not
accepted, but I was removed from the Hazaribagh
district and Ordered to take over charge of Noa-
colly in Southern Bengal. This involved not only
change of scene, but complete change of language.
In Hazaribagh all the work of the district was carried
on in Urdu, with which language I was thoroughly
acquainted; while at Noacolly the whole population
spoke and wrote Bengali, which I accordingly should
have to master, if I wished to do any work to my own
satisfaction.
I was sorry to leave Hazaribagh. I knew the
whole district like a familiar face, and had grown
much attached to my men and they to me. There
was quite a scene at parting. My favourite, Rahmut
Khan, and the old Lieutenant Panchkowrie, besought
HAZARIBAGH. - 155
with tears to be allowed to follow my fortunes, and
many of the others crowded round, wishing to go
with me. What could I say to them P. We were all
but as pawns on the great Government board, moved
hither and thither as best suits the game of our
masters the governors.
I travelled as far as Calcutta with my brother, who
was bound for England after his visit to me. At a
dāk-bungalow on our road we fell in with two German
missionaries, both of them quite young, who had come
out to join the Ranchee Mission. Ranchee is the dis-
trict adjoining Hazaribagh, and the Moravian Mission
there is the only thoroughly successful work of the
sort that I have met in India. The missionaries have
addressed themselves, not to the Hindoos, but to the
Kols and Sonthals, the aboriginal and simpler races,
and count their converts by hundreds and thousands.
These two German lads, who had left home and
country to give their lives to work among the heathen,
were the kindest-hearted and most ingenuous of young
recruits. They dined with us, and were full of wonder
at the various new edibles presented for their con-
sumption. Green peas were a novelty in their experi-
ence, and brandy they described as “a precious but
breath-taking cordial.” We parted with mutual good
wishes.
It was on New Year's Day 1864 that I bade
farewell to my brother on board the good ship “City
of Dublin,” homeward bound, while I turned my
own face southward, to start life afresh in my new
district of Noacolly. -
156 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER WI.
NOACOLLY.
1864–65.
I LEFT Calcutta in a small coasting-steamer which
plied between Bengal and Burmah, touching at
Chittagong, the nearest port to my new district,
Noacolly.
The passage across the Bay of Bengal was pleasant
enough, the steamer having but one other passenger,
a clever, amusing young fellow, who entertained me
much with stories of his varied experiences. His had
been indeed a chequered career. Starting first as a
scholar at the École Militaire, at Boulogne ; then at
a public school in England ; afterwards out to Aus-
tralia, where he served in the mounted police, rising
to be a Lieutenant, when he left the corps to go to
the diggings, making and losing a fortune there,
like many another. When news of the Mutiny
reached him, he came to India, and served through-
out the campaign in the volunteer cavalry, under
“Hashed Richardson,” so called on account of the
many sabre-cuts he had received. Finally—if any-
thing could be final with such a character—he got
work as sub-editor to one of the Calcutta daily
NOACOLLY. 157
papers, and, his health having suffered from the
desk-work, he was taking a sea-voyage for change of
air. I parted company with him on reaching Chit-
tagong, where I had to transfer bag and baggage into
small boats in order to land. I had brought my
favourite mare from Hazaribagh, and as she could
not be taken in the boats, she was lowered into the
water and swam to shore.
I was received at Chittagong by my confrère, the
police superintendent of that place, a curious old
withered, sun-browned stick of a man, with a fine
expanse of shirt-collar, and a grey stubble of hair
of equal length covering head and face alike. He
invited to meet me at dinner, the first night after
my arrival, the Captain of a French barque which was
lying at anchor in the river, a pleasant, excitable little
Frenchman, who entertained us much by his volu-
bility. During the evening the conversation turned
on the delicate question of French versus English
courage, and he told us a story, which we were not
slow to perceive was autobiographic.
“Attendez done un peu. Hear me,” he said. “I
will tell you a leetle history of a Frenchman who
was afraid of noting ; no, not of the great Devil
himself. There was once, not long ago, a fire im-
mense at Penang ; and this leetle Frenchman, he
lived there with his old wife, and they have eighteen
children. Mon Dieu ! she was a powerful woman.
Mais helas !”—raising his hand—“the bon Dieu, he
have take her | Well, well, hear me. The fire was
hot ; sacr-r-r-6-6-6-6 nom l—excuse me, gentlemans;
it was as hot as a thousand devils, and it have burn
twenty shops, thirty shops, and the Counsellor Presi-
158 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
dent, what you call Governor-General, he is there,
and all the officers of artillerie, and many brave Eng-
lishmans, and they all do their possible to extinguish
the fire. But stay ; the leetle Frenchman he see on
a platform, right over the hottest part of the fire, five
large jars of water, that would contain perhaps fifty
gallons each, and an old beam goes to reach this
platform. Pr-r-r-rou ! the leetle Frenchman is on
the beam, and he runs over, although the under part
is burning, and quickly he empties all the jars. Ah,
he was out of breath, and the people all say, ‘Retire
yourself quick, quick retire yourself and he
runs ; and just as he pass over the beam, cr-r-r-ack
it is broken. But he save himself on his feet, and les
officiers say, ‘Sacré ! it is a brave leetle man l’ And
is it not enough? But no. The Chinamen they say
in English—for many China boy there know English,
Sare, quite well—they say, ‘ Run, run, quick, for
here are barrels of gunpowder in the cellar !” And
the Counsellor-General he say, “A willing man here!’
But all keep quite silent. Then the leetle Frenchman
he spring up and say, ‘I will go,' and the President
Counsellor shake him, Sare, by the hand, and say,
‘Come, my brave l’ And the President Counsellor
he go down on the floor on his chin, and the leetle
Frenchman he take his hands, and down he go into
the cellar, and hand up one, two, tree barrel of the
powder, and all shout, and say, ‘Well done !” After
some time comes a letter, Number 504 of the Council,
with fine words, and say, ‘Here is a Government
ship ; the leetle Frenchman shall command her.’
But he is very independent and has a hot head. He
cannot bow to the subordination, and he keep his own
NOACOLLY. 159
ship. He write to Government and say, ‘No,
We rose, glass in hand, and saluted the leetle
Frenchman as a “brave,” and drank to his health,
and to the undaunted valour of all Frenchmen.
I heard afterwards that this man, Captain Martin
by name, had on one occasion been attacked in his
bed by forty Malays. He received a cut on the
head, another on the shoulder, a wound in the back,
a stab on the elbow, and two big gashes in the
thigh ; but, in spite of all, he got hold of a big
stick, killed three of the Malays, took two of them
prisoner, and put the rest of the party to flight.
Then, fearing lest they should return and, in his
helpless condition, torture and murder him, he
opened a barrel of gunpowder, put it between his
knees, and sat smoking cigars till morning, fully
determined that, if they did return, he would blow
them, with himself, into the air.
When I met him, he commanded and owned the
barque “Onega,” from Penang to Calcutta, and had
put into the port of Chittagong for a cargo of rice.
With all my heart I wished him success and “bon
voyage!”
I was two days coasting along shore in a native
boat going from Chittagong to Noacolly, without
much consciousness of my surroundings, owing to the
disastrous effect which sea-travelling usually has upon
me; but at last we hauled up into a creek in the
Island of Sidhi, at the mouth of the river Meghna,
to wait for the bore, or tidal wave, which is very
dangerous to the unwary traveller.
I went on shore at once with my two dogs, Eshkee
160 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and Grabby, and found to my surprise that the ground
was covered with short crisp turf, and a shrub which
looked like English holly, but which I afterwards
found to be the Dilwaria ilicifolia of tidal swamps;
but the effect was delightfully English and home-
like, and gave me a pleasant impression of my new
district.
We waited till the tide turned, and the bore swept
by, an impetuous wave some four feet high, and
following in its foamy wake, we soon reached Noa-
colly. I reported my arrival to the magistrate, and
assumed charge of my new duties on the 19th of
January.
I soon found that there was plenty to be done, the
whole of the district police being still on the old
footing, the reforms and alterations of the past year
having been apparently unheeded in this small sleepy
hollow.
I had seen many dull Indian stations, but for
steady and persistent dulness Noacolly surpassed
them all. The English society consisted of the civil
surgeon and his wife, and the magistrate, who was
unmarried. The only available residence for me
was a small thatched bungalow, in close proximity
to the station cemetery and facing a large tank,
which was reported by the natives to be haunted;
truly a dreary abode.
My police clerk, an educated Bengali, whose duty
it was to copy my official letters, proved to be a
cultured individual. His colloquial English was also
characterised by much originality of expression. He
one day inquired of me if Her Majesty Queen Victoria
were comely in appearance ; and on my gravely
NOACOLLY. 161
rejoining that she was indeed beautiful, he replied,
“Yes, Sir, I understand ; a moonbeam of pretty."
“Hardly so beautiful as that, Baboo.”
“Sir, in the pictures she is a notorious beauty,
with a bob in her nose.”
“A what, Baboo P” I demanded.
“A bob, Sir, a ring. I have read in Milton, and
also I have read the fine Shackspear.”
At this I could not refrain from smiling, which
the Baboo took somewhat amiss, taking his departure
with the remark, “Sir, your laf make my inward
soul ashamed.”
My fellow-countrymen were not only few in
number, but most unsociable in disposition, and I
saw so little of them, that I at length began even to
think in the native tongue.
The magistrate in charge was of an imperious and
most unaccommodating disposition, and I did not
desire to see much of him. An occasional planter
would show an unkempt head of hair and beard in
the station; but I fell back for companionship chiefly
on the doctor, and, not many weeks after my arrival,
I succeeded in luring him forth with me on a tour of
inspection through the district.
Very different now were my surroundings from
those of Hazaribagh. Here were no delights of
camp life, of riding, or of sport ; but the change
was pleasant from its very contrast with previous
experiences.
We set off, with a small fleet of boats, to navigate
the mighty river Meghna, to which the Ganges is
but a child. Here at his mouth Father Meghna is
twenty miles broad, with islands on his breast as
11
162 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
large as English counties, and a great tidal bore
which made a daily and ever-varying excitement.
Twice in the twenty-four hours the whole volume of
the down-pouring river was met and opposed by the
incoming tide of the Indian Ocean, which rolled it
back on itself in a mighty wave, whose roaring foamy
crest, some miles in length, varied from three to
twelve feet in height, according to the strength and
direction of the wind. In deep water, it passed
merely as a large rolling billow ; but in the shallows,
it rushed along, roaring like a crested and devouring
monster, before which no small craft could live.
While the tide ebbed, the river ran out tranquilly to
the sea; but with the advent of the bore, the current
changed, and rushed upwards at a rate of at least ten
miles an hour.
A curious police case turned on this peculiarity of
the river. Two men, from causes which I need not
particularise, were bitter enemies. One of them was
an agriculturist on the island of Sundeep ; the other
was leaseholder of the ferry from that island to the
mainland. The ferryman lived in a small house
near the river's bank, and, with the help of a hired
servant, carried people to and from Noacolly. The
distance across was over three miles, and the passage
was dangerous for those who were unacquainted with
the mud-banks, which at low tide lay bare in mid-
stream. To this person's house, one afternoon, came
his enemy, accompanied by his daughter and a gay
party of guests, bound for a wedding-feast at Noa-
colly. The ferryman saw them coming, and hastily
despatched his servant, who ordinarily rowed the
ferry-boat, on an errand to a village at some distance,
NOACOLLY. 163
The party arrived, and demanded to be conveyed
across the river.
“My servant is away,” answered the ferryman,
“and I will not serve you or yours. There is the
boat; if you can row, take it and go across."
They took it and went. Half-way across the boat
stuck in a mud-bank, and remained there with her
living freight till the terrible wave overwhelmed
them. The ferryman, who had known that the bore
was coming, was tried for his life, but was acquitted,
as it was shown that, with skilful rowing, there
would have been just time to get across ; but doubt-
less he knew that these hapless ones, not knowing
the banks, must needs be lost, and he was in his
heart a murderer.
I found the boat-travelling a lazy lotus-eating sort
of existence, with the pleasant soft South wind
rustling through the feathery bamboo foliage on the
bank, while the plash of our oars fell in lulling
cadence, and the bright reflections from the water
danced and quivered on the woven cane roof of the
boat. The day slipped by as insensibly as the even
course of our boat on the river, or as the gliding
ever-changing procession of the green banks we
passed; now it was a village, with the women coming
down to fetch water, under the spreading shade of
the mango trees; then a grove of slender-shafted
areca palms, or a glimpse of the golden-green plumes
of the cocoa-nut, which here, within sniff of the
ocean, throve wonderfully. How soft and tender
the hue of the young rice, thrown into relief by a
dark background of the indigo plant. Occasionally
a fisherman's boat would range up beside ours,
11 *
164 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and we amused ourselves by inspecting and bar-
gaining for his silvery commodities. Even the vicis-
situdes of the weather had their own peculiar charm,
for it was by no means always fair. Great towering
banks of cloud, blue-black with strangled wrath,
would rise swiftly up from the horizon against the
wind, and, coming nearer and nearer, our eyes
would turn with agonies of apprehension to the cook-
boat, bravely struggling on in the distance, as we
neared the haven where we would moor till the storm
was past.
Always late was that ill-fated craft, always behind-
hand and behind time; and yet each occupant thereof,
from “ Khansamah Jee,” the table-servant, down to
the youngest boatman on board, would firmly main-
tain, like Mr. Micawber of immortal memory, that
they had “only fallen back for a spring,” and could
overhaul the Sahib's boat whenever it might be
needful to do so. If I ventured to point out that it
would be pleasing to have dinner served somewhere
within two hours of the time it was ordered, and
suggested that the cook-boat should start ahead of
mine, in order that it might prepare for our arrival,
my servant invariably answered me by a long tirade
against the “manji,” or head boatman of the cook-
boat. This unfortunate man, he said, was a pig for
obstinacy—of low extraction, and ignorant of polite
manners, and he alone was the cause of the delay.
If I rejoined that I would deal with the “manji,”
another argument prevailed, for he then fell back
upon the impregnable position that it was impossible
to start earlier, as his pots required cleaning. This
line of argument generally resulted in my defeat,
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NOACOLLY. 165
I had brought with us in tow a small jolly-boat,
and, while waiting for dinner, the doctor and I often
went for a sail in the cool of the evening. Merrily
we spanked along before the fresh salt breeze, the dogs
lying contentedly in the bows, as the boat flew along
at a tremendous pace, until I brought her up under
the lea of some small fishing-boat, lying at anchor
and waiting for the ebb, whose dark crew gazed with
astonishment at the two Sahibs with white faces and
whiter shirts, who lay, pipe in mouth, at the bottom
of the strangely-rigged foreign boat.
All the native boats are without keels, and can
therefore only sail before the wind, so that our Eng-
lish method of navigation was an astonishment, and,
as my old “manji” remarked, it was a wonder to him
that we could sail at all, as our boat transgressed
every principle of boat-building that he had collected
during thirty years experience of the river.
On the back tack we would sometimes find our-
selves in a quandary, the strong tide and a contrary
wind proving too much for us, so that we had to take
to the oars, which was slow work. One evening, even
this last resource failed us, for one of the oars snapped
short in my hand, and we were left helpless. Tack
after tack we made, with no perceptible effect, for
what way we gained by the sail we lost by the cur-
rent. The sun had set, and the swift-falling Eastern
darkness was fast closing round us. There was no-
thing for it but to anchor under a mud-bank and
wait for the turn of the tide, not getting back to the
big boat and our dinner till after nine o’clock.
The large police-boat in which we travelled was
by no means an uncomfortable dwelling-place. It
166 A FIY ON THE WHEEL.
was one of the six or eight Government guard-boats,
employed to patrol the river Meghna and its tribu-
taries for the suppression of smuggling, and also
to keep open communication between head-quarters
and the outlying police-posts. The whole district
being covered by a great net-work of small streams,
all communicating with the great estuary of the
Meghna, a great deal of illicit salt manufacture was
carried on, which it was part of my duty to check.
The guard-boats were manned by crews of twelve
oarsmen, under command of the steersman, or
“manji,” as he was called. They resembled a Roman
galley, with a thatched cottage occupying the after
part of the boat. This cottage was formed by cane
mats bound to a bamboo framework, upon the roof
whereof sat the “manji”, who directed the course of
the boat by means of a great oar, shipped rudder-
fashion. The interior accommodation consisted of a
bed-place, much infested by cockroaches, and a small
sitting-room, which held two chairs, a table, and my
harmonium.
One morning, while sitting on my bed, I saw a
cockroach emerge from the darkness of a sheltering
cranny, and proceed to divest himself of his outside
covering. He shuffled off his shiny brown coat, and
emerged as white as Snow. It was curious to see
the tender and Solicitous way in which he handled
his old clothes, and the careful delicacy with which
he extracted his antennae from their old casings.
He looked very naked and forlorn after the opera-
tion, and, much as I loathed his race, I could not find
it in my heart to scrunch so defenceless a creature.
But a worse fate awaited him. To this innocent,
NOACOLLY. 167
white-garbed one, tittuping gaily through the open
window, entered a consequential insect, known as
the ichneumon fly, very brave in bright steely-blue
armour, looking as if burnished afresh for the occa-
sion. Round my apartment he went, poking into
dark corners, entering the depths of my harmonium,
and taking a careful survey of each crevice in the
floor. A very detective among the insect tribe, this
fellow ! I thought my new-born friend was doomed;
Steely-blue, however, seemed not to notice him, but
poked about until, behind my waste-paper basket, he
saw something move, plunged for it, and there found
a big bloated cockroach, old in villainy. Doubtless he
tapped him on the shoulder with a “Come on, my
boy ; you ’re wanted l’ for a more crestfallen and
despairing aspect no culprit ever presented than this
cockroach, when led forth from behind the basket.
The little blue knight conducted his captive daintily
by one of his antennae, the cockroach following in a
dazed and stupid manner. Having brought him out
into the light, away tripped Steely-blue to look for
a lock-up, or place of safe keeping, the delinquent
meantime, strange to say, making no attempt to
escape, but remaining quietly in the place and atti-
tude in which he was left. Back came Steely-blue
again, seizing an antennae, and walking to a crevice
in the floor, down which he went backwards, dragging
the helpless victim, twice his own size, after him.
The “manji” told me afterwards that, in that dark
recess, Steely-blue performs a magic incantation,
which renders the cockroach torpid, and enables him
to lay an egg in its body. Having thus provided
board and lodging for his progeny, he gaily flits away
168 A Ff.Y ON THE WHEEL.
in search of other victims. This, however, I cannot
vouch for. All I know is that, after an interval,
Steely-blue reappeared and flew away. My new-born
friend, meanwhile, foolishly endeavoured to crawl into
a cranny by the open window, and, being extremely
weak after his metamorphosis, fell into the river, and
was swiftly carried out of sight.
After inspecting some of the outlying police
stations, we reached Dhunnia Munnia, where we
received an invitation from a European landowner
to visit him and have some sport.
This landowner was a Frenchman, whose father
had occupied for many years the post of chief clerk
to the magistrate of the Noacolly district, and in that
capacity had managed, who shall say how, to amass a
very large fortune, owning before his death some
thousands of acres of land in that part of the country.
His sons were educated in France, and the gentleman
we were about to visit was the least favoured of his
three sons. The elder brothers had been left the
bulk of the property, while the youngest came in
merely for five or six villages, which afforded him a
rental of about six hundred pounds a year. He was
unmarried, and possessed by the fixed idea that to
kill tigers and hunt wild pigs was the Summum bonum
of existence. He had no desire to see Europe again,
but lived a lonely life on his own estate, keeping six
elephants, and possessing the best battery of English
guns that money could buy.
Accordingly, on the 6th of March, we moored our
boat to the sandy “chur,” an alluvial island in the
middle of the river, where a family of the best-bred
Bengal tigers were said to reside, subsisting for the
NOACOLLY. 169
most part on wild pig, with which the island abounded,
or varying their diet by an occasional foray into the
mainland. A bullock had been purchased for four
rupees, and the poor animal was tethered in a likely
place among the long grass which covered the chur,
growing in many places to a height of over ten feet.
The next morning our scouts reported that the
bullock had been killed during the night and the
carcass dragged away. Word was sent to our host,
and his elephants were soon descried swimming across
the river. The mahouts, or elephant drivers, managed
the passage very cleverly, standing on the backs of the
great beasts as they swam, and shifting and balancing
themselves with their every movement.
The elephant swims with the whole of his body
under water save just the tip of his trunk, through
which he breathes, and which is elevated two or three
inches above the surface. The mahouts, therefore,
standing on the backs of the animals, had the appear-
ance of walking or wading through shallow water,
although the arm of the river they crossed was
both wide and rapid. Elephants swim slowly, but
they are practically untirable, and can swim for
hours without fatigue. One instance came to my
knowledge, where two elephants with their mahouts
were caught by the tidal wave in crossing the Meghna.
Surprised in mid-stream, one mahout was swept away
and drowned, but the other managed to cling to the
rope round his animal’s neck, and, with the two ele-
phants under his charge, remained for seven hours
in the water without touching bottom, the tide having
swept them up the estuary, and the current preventing
them making much way.
170 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
The mahout guides his elephant through the water
by the pressure of his feet and toes, or by touching
his head with a stick. As our host's elephants swam
to us at Dhunnia Munnia one of the great beasts
turned over on his side, with a swirl and a splash,
the mahout nimbly changing his position, and stand-
ing on the upturned flank. This, they said, was the
animal's play; but it seemed dangerous sport for its
rider, in a deep rapid river abounding in alligators.
When the elephants had safely crossed, and their
howdahs, which had been brought over by boat, were
properly adjusted on their backs, we mounted and
proceeded to beat the “chur.”
On reaching the place where the decoy-bullock had
been tethered the previous night, the traces of the
kill were manifest, and we had no difficulty in follow-
ing the trail through the long grass till we came on
its carcass, already half eaten by the tiger, but still
showing plainly the crushing effect of the death-blow.
The neck of the animal had been broken and the head
twisted round, jaw-bone and shoulder-blade both
having been Smashed by the terrible onslaught.
There were plenty of footprints, or “pugs,” as they
call the spoor of tiger, round the carcass, and the
head mahout pronounced him to be a royal tiger, that
is to say, one of the largest size and best breed for
pluck and endurance. We went on beating through
the tall “sunn "grass, which seemed capable of hiding
any quantity of game in its dense cover. Each man
stood up on his howdah with rifle at the “ready.”
Suddenly, one of the elephants cocked his ears and
trumpeted, with the clear metallic clang which denotes
danger.
f{OACOLLY. 171
“The tiger is afoot,” shouted our host ; “there
spoke Sundri, my best elephant. She never trumpets
for nothing.”
The doctor, who was in front, fired, and a tremen-
dous roar showed that his ball had told.
“Push on, push on, follow up !” shouted the
Frenchman. But the more haste the worse speed,
for we over-went our tiger, and paused in a small
nullah, looking vainly for his pug in its sandy bed.
After a short consultation, we determined to beat
along the nullah, an elephant on each bank and one
in the bed of the watercourse. This last post fell
to me, and, as I rode along the nullah, scrutinizing
the grass on either side with the closest vigilance, I
leant forward for a moment, to give some directions
to the mahout, when the words were frozen on my
lips by the expression of the man's face and his atti-
tude, as he lay huddled up on the neck and behind
the ears of his elephant, pointing, without saying a
word, to the side of the nullah.
I turned sharply, and there on the high bank close
by, and on a level with my face, I saw the tiger. At
this point, the sides of the stream were precipitous,
and the animal's head was literally not five yards
from my own. Life was in the balance. The beast
was glaring silently at me, with a ferocity of expres-
sion that curdled my blood, and I felt that the least
movement on my part would cause him to spring.
As I looked, I saw the corners of his mouth curl
in a fierce snarl, the sure precursor of action; and,
Swiftly dropping my gun, I fired at a venture, the
mahout at the same time urging the elephant forward
at full speed. No sound followed the report of my
172 A Ff.Y ON THE WHEEf.
gun, and when we turned, and all met at the spot, we
found the tiger lying quite dead, the ball in its brain.
As my host remarked, “She was so close, my dear
fellow, that you could not very well have missed
her.”
We had some pleasant days' sport together; but
duty soon recalled me to Noacolly, where my police
reported to me that the house of a lonely old usurer
had been broken into and a total clearance made of
all his possessions.
I proceeded at once to the spot, but could learn
little from the old man, who seemed thoroughly
dazed and heartbroken by his losses, and the night
following he committed suicide by hanging himself
to a tree at the back of his house.
Somewhat depressed by this untoward ending to
my inquiry, I returned to Noacolly, where I was
soon prostrated by my first attack of Indian fever,
brought on by exposure in this marshy and malarious
district. My illness was not rendered lighter by a
letter which I received from the magistrate, informing
me that I was accused of having tortured the wretched
old man till he died, with a view to extorting money
from him. The accusation, which was contained in
an anonymous letter, went on to say that, having thus
caused the man's death, I directed my subordinates
to hang the body on a tree and report the case as one
of suicide. I replied to the magistrate that I was
anxious for the most complete and searching inquiry
to be made, but I was too weak and ill at the time to
trace out personally my slanderer, and I heard no
more of the matter.
I had often read tales of ghouls and vampires,
NOACOLLY. 173
pseudo-dead men who walked among the living, suck-
ing their blood to maintain their grisly existence; and
the following true record would almost justify the
belief in such monsters. I was informed that a
wealthy zemindar, named Luckhi Churn, who resided
at Mynda, on the road to Luckhipúr police station, was
commonly reputed to be a vampire. He was said to pay
men to let him suck their blood, opening a vein, and
imbibing the fluid through a small reed, with the
belief that by so doing he improved his own health.
After some inquiry, I found a man who professed to
have been thus operated upon. He showed me a
small scar on his arm, from which, he assured me,
the zemindar had sucked his blood till he was quite
weak, in consideration of a present of four rupees.
No fewer than two persons were said to have died
from their love of rupees and the zemindar's un-
natural appetite, and the records of the criminal
court bore witness to the fact of his having twice
been charged with having thus caused death.
The first time he was committed for trial at the
sessions on a charge of murder, but was acquitted
for lack of evidence. On the second occasion the
magistrate inquired into the case, but dismissed it as
not proven ; but the zemindar was reported to have
spent money lavishly in suborning the witnesses.
Probably he found his taste too expensive for
modern times, as he was not brought up again to
my knowledge. The truth of the charge against
him was, however, fully believed by the people at
large.
With the hot weather, in April, a terrible epidemic
of cholera smote the district, and there was scarcely
174 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
a native house but had its dying or dead inmates.
In one house in the bazaar there dwelt a native
pleader of the magistrate's court, who retired to rest
at night with six living members of his family. In
the morning he alone was alive, the rest had all died
of cholera. In a single night he had lost his wife
and their two children, his mother, and his sister.
The men of my police fell into a state of abject
terror, and I had great difficulty in keeping any heart
in them. One constable, a lad of nineteen, died in
my arms while I was speaking to him, telling him
to hope: even as I spoke, his breathing became
hurried, his muscles twitched, and his body was
agitated, as if striving to keep the spirit within its
fleshy bounds, and then, suddenly, a great and solemn
change hushed the poor frame to stillness. He was
gone; died of exhaustion, after fighting through the
acute stage of the malady. The scourge continued
to claim its daily tale of victims, in spite of all our
efforts to check it, until the rains set in, when, with
the first heavy showers in May, it abated as rapidly
as it had come. It had been a trying time, and I
gladly betook myself to my boats, for a little much-
needed rest after the pressure and anxiety were
OVer’.
I was bound first of all for the island of Sundeep,
where my police were in trouble with some smugglers.
A descent had been made upon a village there, in
order to seize a depôt of illicit salt which had been
stored there for export. The smugglers had resisted
the seizure, and in the struggle a poor little child had
been trampled to death.
The relatives placed the child’s body on a bier, and
NOACOLLY. 175
bore it along, followed by a long procession of
mourners, to the magistrate's court-house at Noa-
colly, weeping, wailing, tearing their garments, and
calling for vengeance on the bloodthirsty policemen
who had murdered the innocent child.
Poor policemen! Many and unjust were the accu-
sations brought against them ; above all, in these first
days of their organization. The hand of every
criminal, or would-be criminal, was against them;
the thief, the usurer, the oppressor of his neighbour,
the receiver of stolen goods, besides darker mis-
creants, who lived by violence and murder—all
united against the common foe. No accusation was
too vile, no motive too base to be imputed to those
who ventured to do the thankless work of upholding
law and order. Anonymous letters usually conveyed
the sting ; but often, as in the present instance, the
attack was boldly made, and would be supported by
any requisite number of witnesses. *
The weather was very hot, and I slept on deck in
a swing-cot slung from the mast. This cot was made
of coarse tent-cloth stretched over a frame of bamboo,
made with side-pieces which, when raised, sheltered
and concealed the occupant. It was invented by a
friend of mine in Hazaribagh, who was a mighty
hunter, and had devised this ambush, so that he might
be slung up in a tree when watching for tiger or bear.
It was very restful lying thus, listening to the plash
of the oars and the monotonous chant of the twelve
TOWel’S.
Goom! goom goom alatoon goom
Lal kirani Sahib bhag marara.
Sahib bagh mara mararey.
176 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Which might be translated,
Pull away lads, cheerily oh!
The red-haired English gentleman killed a tiger;
Oh, he killed a tiger very handsomely
I am not red-haired. I believe the pre-historic
Sahib thus commemorated was a Mr. Simpson, for-
merly magistrate of the district, and who was known
throughout Bengal as “Red Simmy,” to distinguish
him from a brother civilian of the same name, who
was called “Black Sim.”
Far away behind us on the river followed the
cook-boat, with Ramtuhul, my khitmutgar, sitting
disconsolate on the roof, speculating anxiously on the
wrath to come when the cook-boat should arrive late
with the dinner cold ! &-
Most refreshing was it, in the fiery heat of noon,
to slice the top off a cocoa-nut and drink the tumbler-
ful of cool acidulated water which it contained.
The river navigation was no easy matter for the
inexperienced traveller. In addition to the tidal
wave, which I have already mentioned, the district
was subject to cyclonic storms of incredible violence,
fortunately lasting for a very short time, but which
often caused much destruction. These storms were
heralded by the appearance above the horizon of
clouds known to the native boatmen by the name of
“lady's eyebrows,” so called from their being curved
in a narrow black arched wisp, and these most surely
foretold the approach of a tornado.
The native “manjis,” who manage the boats, know
all the storm-signals and mud banks and detours
of the mighty stream, so that an accident rarely
occurs. If, however, the storm comes on too rapidly
NOACOLLY. 177
to allow the boat to gain the shelter of the banks,
there ensues a hard struggle for life.
On one occasion I was thus caught in mid-stream,
and a most unpleasant experience it was. The
“manji” lost his head at the approach of danger, and
fell on his knees, knocking his head against the deck,
and invoking “Allah '' with loud cries. The boat,
having no keel, rocked and rolled like a pudding-basin
on the waves—and such waves | almost like mid-ocean,
owing to the force of the wind and the width of the
river. I had to take the helm myself, and “huroosh ’’
the men on, or we should have assuredly gone down.
On arriving at Sundeep, I made a careful inquiry,
but could find no evidence to justify the charge of
murder against the police, as the child had evidently
been accidentally crushed to death ; so in June I
returned to Noacolly, and made my report to the
magistrate, feeling much better for the change of air
and scene.
One morning, as I was sitting at breakfast, a great
yellow dog rushed in at the open door, and made a
lunge at me. Fortunately, my faithful bull-terrier
Grabby, who had been lying dozing at my feet, flew
at the intruder and diverted the attack, giving me
time to get my gun, which stood ready loaded close at
hand. I carefully inspected, Grabby, but could find
no mark of bite or scratch upon him ; but my other
dog, Eshkee, must have met the strange dog before he
Came to my room, as in about a month's time she
showed signs of rabies. The first symptoms appeared
While I was once more out on a tour in the boats,
when Eshkee, usually the meekest of quadrupeds,
suddenly fell upon her friend and companion Grabby,
12
178 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
with obvious desire to devour him. Again and again
she repeated the unprovoked onslaught, to Grabby's
intense dismay, looking miserably ashamed of herself,
after the frenzy had subsided, but apparently unable to
control her canicidal impulses. As the days went on
the attacks grew worse, and she flew at one of the
boatmen, and even pursued my bearer, Munbodh,
causing him to climb the mast in a swift agony of
apprehension. She was still always amenable to my
voice, and I tied her up, hoping that it was not
really madness ; but no rope would hold her.
Slowly and patiently she gnawed it quite through,
although we used a half-inch rope for the purpose.
Twice in one night she thus released herself, and a
scene of dire confusion ensued on board of my small
craft, the boatmen jumping head-foremost into the
water, while I had to go out in my night-shirt, with
bare legs, in order to secure her. Once she took my
hand into her mouth, as if to bite it, but dropped it
when I reproached her. In a day or two the biting
and tearing humour left her, and she grew very weak,
and at last died licking my hand.
Poor dear doggieſ my bonnie, faithful, affectionate
companion Grabby seemed to share my anxiety,
and be conscious that there was something amiss.
In the last days he, for the first and only time,
deserted his nightly position at the foot of my bed,
going out to where Eshkee was tied up, and lying
gravely watching her, in a mystified and sympathetic
manner. He missed his familiar friend, and we were
both very lonely for a time after her death.
Government had issued an order to the magistrates
throughout Bengal, that all starving and ownerless
NOACOLLY. 179
curs should be destroyed by the police, to avoid infec-
tion by rabies. A great fuss was made about this at
the time by the native press, and some stress was
laid upon the inhumanity of their English rulers;
but in point of fact the Bengalis as a race are not
kind to dumb beasts. They drive their bullocks and
horses with large sores on their backs, in which mag-
gots breed and at which crows may peck. They over-
load their small donkeys until the poor creatures' hind
legs are bent crosswise; it is customary with them to
carry bundles of live fowls head-downward ; and if
a bird with valuable plumage be caught in a snare,
it is a common thing to pluck out a feather, and with
it poke out the creature's eyes, in order that its
fluttering may not injure the lustre of the feathers.
And yet this order of Government made a great
stir among these merciful folk, and many were the
complaints of English cruelty in destroying poor
harmless dogs.
Insect life was very busy in the hot weather, and
I was much interested in watching the formations of
tiny cells and hummocks on the various shelves and
joists in my cabin, the parent flies providing a
goodly store of dead spiders for the youthful grub's
consumption.
I noticed also a new description of ant, which I had
not met with before, called by the natives the “fire-
ant,” on account of the burning sensation caused by
its sting; it was chiefly remarkable in my eyes for
the way in which it threw itself down from a height,
descending to the ground by means of a slender
silken thread, which it emitted from its body, after
the manner of a spider.
12 *
180 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
One morning, a fine lively python, measuring four-
teen feet long, was brought to me for sale ; but
snakes were too numerous in the neighbourhood for
one to have any wish to augment their number by
purchase. I shall never forget the shock I received
one morning when, on pushing open the door of my
bath-room, which was ajar, a cold heavy snake fell
from above on to my naked shoulders; the beast had
coiled himself on the top of the half-open door, and
my push brought him down with a run. He was as
much astonished as myself, and glided off quickly,
while I retired hastily to call my bearer, and arm
myself with a stick. We killed him afterwards
among the water-pots in the bath-room ; he was a
veritable cobra, with the spectacle-marked hood, but
a young one, not measuring quite three feet long.
Deaths from snake-bite were very frequent in the
district, and the natives affirmed that some of the
water-snakes were more deadly than the cobra.
Printed instructions were issued by Government, and
distributed at all the police stations, giving directions
for treatment, and bottles of ammonia were also
provided to be used as antidote in such cases.
My neighbour and official superior, the magistrate
of Noacolly, did not improve on further acquaintance.
I found him to be a most discourteous and ungentle
man, even from the first day of my arrival in the
district. The bungalow which had been allotted to
me stood in the same garden, or compound, as the
Government Circuit-house, occupied at that time by
the magistrate, but not belonging to him, and the road
to my bungalow ran through this garden, passing very
close to the Circuit-house. Unfortunately, the great
NOACOLLY. 181
man was walking in the grounds when my stores and
heavy baggage arrived in bullock-carts, and he per-
emptorily ordered the drivers to go back, saying that
no carts should pass that way, and that, if I wanted
my boxes, my servants could carry them in on their
heads. The cases were some of them very heavy,
and, as this was the only road leading to my house,
I naturally took a different view ; and, judging that
the public road was intended for public use, I sallied
forth to reassure my servants, who were somewhat
daunted by this magisterial prohibition ; and, if
necessary, to see the goods brought in myself.
The magistrate had left a “chaprasi,” charged to
stop the road, and this underling, “dressed in a little
brief authority,” allowed himself to be exceedingly
impertinent to me, and attempted to lay forcible
hands on my carts. Him, therefore, I promptly
dismissed, with a harmless kick & posteriori, and
triumphantly bore in my convoy. The next morning
the magistrate summoned me before him judicially
as a culprit, and fined me fifty rupees for assault.
I, on my side, reported the whole matter to the
higher powers, and subsequently had much satisfac-
tion when an official reprimand arrived, remitting the
whole of my fine, and charging the magistrate with
irregularity and ill-will in the performance of his
functions. Thus the matter ended; but there never
Was any cordiality between us, and I had to be care-
ful not to give him an opportunity against me, which
he would have been sure to take advantage of
In the month of July the rainy season was at its
height, and the great river came out in flood, sub-
merging the district for many miles round. My boats
182 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
had no need then to follow the creeks and canals
which intersected the country, but could boldly row
over the rice-fields, as I visited the different villages
and police stations, which were always built on rising
ground.
The ordinary boat of the district, called “khunda,”
was simply a large canoe made from the hollowed-out
trunk of a tree. Some of these canoes were sur-
prisingly large, holding from ten to twelve people, but
they were necessarily narrow, and therefore somewhat
crank, although the people of the country were per-
fectly safe and at home in them. These boats were
made from trees growing in the forest beyond British
limits, on the frontiers of the adjacent district of
Chittagong. -
I occupied my spare time at Noacolly in compiling
a “Police Officer's Manual,” in the vernacular, being
a résumé, in brief and easy form, of the law relating
to and regulating the ordinary duties of the police.
This manual was accepted, and afterwards published,
with the sanction of my own department, for general
use in Bengal.
I also had the tardy satisfaction of receiving a com-
plimentary letter from Government, thanking me for
my exertions in Hazaribagh ; and this letter was
shortly afterwards followed by orders transferring me
from Noacolly to the charge of the larger and more
important district of Chittagong.
I commenced with joy to pack up my belongings.
I had nothing to regret in leaving Noacolly, save
the use of a very fine library, the munificent gift
of a neighbouring planter to the little station-school,
where I had browsed happily upon many authors
NOACOLLY. - 183
not included in my previous school or college
curriculum. Here for the first time I met with
Steele and Addison, Rabelais and Sir Thomas Browne,
Charles Lamb and De Quincey, greatest master of
English prose. Here also I found and laid to heart
the four great maxims of the philosopher Epicurus,
viz., “(1) The pleasure which produces no pain is to
be embraced; (2) the pain which produces no plea-
sure is to be avoided ; (3) that pleasure is to be
avoided which prevents greater pleasure or produces
a greater pain; (4) that pain is to be endured which
averts a greater pain or secures a greater pleasure.”
Fortified by this antique philosophy, I definitively
abandoned the drinking of beer!
184 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER VII.
CHITTAGONG.
1864–65.
I ARRIVED safely off Chittagong on the 15th of
October 1864, after an uneventful journey down the
big river Meghna and along the sea-coast beyond.
We waited, just before leaving the river, at a place
called Bamni, until the “bore” boomed past, and
then pushed out to sea, coasting along until the
mouth of the river Karna-phuli was reached, a short
distance up which stream lay the port of Chittagong.
Rarna-phuli, being translated, means an “ear-
flower " or ear-ring. Tradition has it that a wife of
a Mahommedan governor of the place dropped a
valuable ear-ring in the river, and was drowned in
attempting to recover it. This, however, was long
ago, before the English “raj,” and when the Moghul
dynasty held Chittagong as the extreme northern
outpost of the empire. The aboriginal name of the
river is the Kynsa-khyoung.
We rowed up to Chittagong with the rising tide.
Before us, in the clear morning light, lay innumerable
groups of small low-lying hills, which were backed
by more lofty ranges in the distance, all well wooded
but scarcely rising to the dignity of mountains,
CHITTAGONG. 185
I was travelling for the last time in one of my
cumbrous cottage-like Noacolly police-boats, and, as
the flowing tide swept us up stream, the rowers sang
some improvised stanzas of farewell, each verse
ending with a vigorous chorus of “Goom alatoon
goom.”
As we approached the town and port of Chitta-
gong, the tall masts of European-rigged vessels rose
outlined against the sky. These were one or two
English and American barques loading with rice, as
also sundry brigs, rigged English fashion, but owned
and sailed by native residents of the port.
The inhabitants of Chittagong had been ship-
owners and ship-builders for many a long year, ever
since their first settlement at the place as a colony of
sea-going pirates, who were the scourge and terror
of the Bay of Bengal; and I could see here and
there along the shore, as we passed along, the
ship-building yards and slips, showing that the old
seafaring traditions of the place still lived.
The town lay chiefly along the river's bank, on the
northern shore. The houses of the natives were
uniformly constructed of mats tied to a timber frame-
Work, which was raised on an earthen platform some
three feet high, each house being surrounded by its
OWn small grove of fruit trees, among which the
graceful foliage of the cocoanut-palm was prominent.
Behind the native town rose numerous small grassy
hills, each topped by a white bungalow. The Euro-
pean population, consisting of Government officials,
planters, and rice-merchants, all dwelt on these hills,
the low-lying lands being liable to floods, and, conse-
quently, unhealthy. The district of Chittagong,
186 A FiX ON THE WHEEL.
indeed, was by no means a favourite station among
officials, although extremely picturesque in Scenery,
and possessing a comparatively cool climate, as it was
undoubtedly at that time a very hot-bed of malarious
fever. -
The hills and sea-board of Chittagong, until the
rise and consolidation of British power, were formerly
the battle-ground upon which several races struggled
for supremacy. Indigenous hill-tribes, Burmese,
Portuguese, and Mahommedans, all preceded us as
masters of the country, and each had left behind
traces of their rule.
Bernier, in his travels, gives an interesting account
of this part of India during the reign of Aurungzebe
(A.D. 1668). The kingdom of Arracan, of which
Chittagong was then the advanced post or border-
town, was at that time a refuge for bad characters,
runaway slaves, and criminals from the Portuguese
settlements in India; and as the kings of Arracan
lived in constant dread of the advancing tide of Mos-
lem conquest, they deported thither all suspicious or
inconvenient adventurers whom they wished to get
rid of. In this way was established at Chittagong a
colony of Portuguese adventurers, who were given
free grants of land, and little by little acquired the
sole use and quasi-sovereignty of the port, and from
thence as head-quarters they pursued, unchecked, a
career of rapine and piracy. Their light vessels
scoured the neighbouring seas, entering the rivers on
the Bengal sea-board, often carrying their devasta-
tions forty miles up the country. They would surprise
and carry away captive the whole population of a
village on market day, or at times when the inhabi-
CHITTAGONG. 187
tants were assembled for the celebration of a marriage
or other festive occasion. These captives the pirates
either kept for their own service or sold as slaves to
the Portuguese of Goa, Ceylon, or St. Thomas, with
whom they were in communication. The chief depôt
for this nefarious traffic was the island of Galles, near
Cape das Palmas.
To deliver Bengal from this tyranny, the Emperor
Aurungzebe at length ordered an expedition to be
undertaken against the pirates, under the command
of Shaista Khan, the Governor of Lower Bengal.
In this, the Emperor was doubtless actuated by
ulterior designs of aggrandisement in the direction
of Arracan, to the king of which country the pirate
horde of Chittagong professed a nominal allegiance.
It was not practicable to attack Chittagong by land,
owing to the number of canals and rivers which
intersect that part of the country, while the admitted
naval superiority of the pirates rendered it still more
difficult to deliver an effectual attack from the sea.
It therefore occurred to Shaista Khan to solicit the
co-operation of the Dutch, whose rising power in the
Indian seas, as well as the rivalry existing between
that nation and the Portuguese, rendered it likely
that they would readily lend themselves to his views.
With this object, therefore, Shaista Khan sent an
envoy to the General Commandant at Batavia, to
negotiate on certain conditions for the joint subjuga-
tion and occupation of Chittagong and conquest of
Arracan. The Governor of Batavia lent a willing
ear to these proposals, as affording an opportunity of
depressing Portuguese influence in the East, and at
once despatched two ships of war to Bengal, for the
188 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
purpose of facilitating the passage of the Moghul
troops to Chittagong.
In the meantime, Shaista Khan had collected a
large number of vessels and made open preparations
for the expedition, at the same time sending threaten-
ing messages to the freebooters at Chittagong.
“The Emperor Aurungzebe,” he said, “is fixed
in the resolution of chastising the King of Arracan,
and a Dutch fleet, too powerful to be resisted, is at
hand. If you are wise, your personal safety and the
care of your families will now engross your attention.
You will quit the service of the King of Arracan
and enter that of Aurungzebe. In Bengal, you shall
have as much land allotted to you as you may deem
necessary, and your subsidy shall be double that
which you at present receive.”
When this monition reached them, the pirates were
in serious difficulties at home, having unluckily killed
one of the principal officers of the King of Arracan,
and whether struck by terror of the punishment
awaiting them for that crime, or moved by the pro-
mises and threats contained in Shaista Khan's com-
munication, certain it is that their leaders were seized
by a panic, and embarking in great precipitation, they
sailed over to Bengal and placed themselves and their
families in the hands of Shaista Khan. They were
received by that astute diplomatist with great show of
honour and cordiality, money without stint was given
to them, and accommodation provided for their fami-
lies in the town of Dacca; then, with their aid, he
attacked and made himself master of both the island
of Sundeep, at the mouth of the Ganges, and of the
port and district of Chittagong.
CHITTAGONG. 189
Meanwhile, the two Dutch ships of war made their
appearance at the rendezvous ; but Shaista Khan,
thanking the commanders for their friendly inten-
tions, informed them, much to their dissatisfaction,
that they were too late, and that he had now no
need of their assistance ; whereupon the Dutch with-
drew in high dudgeon. -
In regard to the Portuguese pirates, Shaista Khan
treated them not as he had promised, but as they
perhaps deserved. He had drawn the chief men
among them away from Chittagong, and had them
and their families in his power; the occasion for their
services having ceased, he no longer considered it
necessary to fulfil his promises, and suffered month
after month to elapse without giving them their
subsidy, declaring them to be traitors, who had basely
betrayed the prince whose bounty they had enjoyed,
and that they were therefore unworthy of respect or
honour.
In this manner the Mohammedans extinguished
the power of the Arracanese, and subdued to their
dominion the Portuguese settlement at Chittagong.
Their rule lasted until the English took possession
of the place on the downfall of the Moghul dynasty.
We occupied the country in peace and quietness
until the year 1823, when dissensions arose between
the English authorities at Chittagong and their
neighbours the Arracanese, which culminated in the
War of 1824, and the subsequent annexation to the
British dominions of the fertile province of Arracan.
Some time after my arrival at Chittagong, in
searching among the old records of the Commis-
sioner's office, I met with two interesting documents,
190 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
which set forth pretty clearly the final act of the
controversy previous to the declaration of war.
The first in order was a letter from the Rajah of
Arracan to the Chief of Chittagong, and bore date
the 21st June 1787. It ran thus :—
Our territories are composed of five hundred and sixty
countries, and we have ever been on terms of friendship, and
the inhabitants of other countries willingly and freely trade
with the countries belonging to each of us.
A person named Kyoty, having absconded from my authority,
has taken refuge in your territory. I did not, however, pursue
him with a force, but sent a letter of friendship on the subject,
desiring that Kyoty might be given up to me. You, considering
your own power and the extent of your possessions, refused to
send him to me. -
I also am possessed of an extensive country, and Kyoty, in
consequence of his disobedient conduct, and the strength and
influence of my good fortune, was defeated and fled. T)omcan
Chukma and Kiccopa Lies, Marrung, and others, inhabitants
of Arracan, have now absconded and taken refuge in the moun-
tains within your borders, and from thence commit depredations
on the people belonging to both our countries. They have,
moreover, murdered an Englishman at the mouth of the boun-
dary river Naf, and stolen all he had belonging to him.
Hearing of all this, I am come to your boundaries with an
army in order to seize these people, who have deserted their
country, and disobediently exercise the profession of robbers.
It is not proper that you should give asylum to them, or to
the other Mughs who have from time to time absconded from
Arracan, and you will do right to drive them out of your
country, in order that our friendship may remain perfect, and
the road of travellers and merchants be made secure.
If, however, you do not drive them from your country and
give them up, I shall be under the necessity of seeking them
out with an army, in whatever part of your territories they
may be.
I send this letter by Mahommed Wassene. Upon receipt of
it, either drive my subjects out of your country, or if you mean
to grant them an asylum, return me an answer immediately.
CHITTAGONG. 191
The foregoing letter is sufficiently explicit. The
fugitives in question were probably chiefs of clans,
and their expulsion from British territory would have
been tantamount to driving out a whole tribe, besides
being contrary to our well-considered custom of
affording shelter and protection to all who seek it in
our territory, until any fault or crime committed by
such fugitives has been duly inquired into or recog-
nized by us. The letter of the Rajah of Arracan
was covered or strengthened by a broad umbrageous
missive from his suzerain, the King of Burmah,
against whom we eventually declared war.
His Majesty of the Golden Foot wrote in a fine
large style, which carried with it, even in the mere
perusal, a sense of comfort and support, marching
in epic periods with a roll as of deep-toned gongs
and barbaric clash of cymbals. It was conceived as
follows :-
Letter from Turbumah, Principal of the Burmese, and for-
Warded by his orders, through the head person in charge of the
Arracan country.
I am Lord of a whole people and of one hundred and one
Countries, and my titles are, Rajah Chatterdary (sitting under
a canopy) and Rajah Suruj Banshi (descendant of the Sun);
I hold in my subjection many princes; gold, silver, and jewels
are the Ordinary produce of my country, and in my hand is the
instrument of war, that, like the lightning from heaven
humbles and subdues my adversaries. My troops require
neither injunctions nor commands, and my elephants and
horses are without number; in my service are ten elders
learned in the Sacred Writings, and one hundred and four
Priests, whose wisdom is not to be equalled; agreeably to the
learning and intelligence of these wise ones, I execute and dis-
tribute justice among my people, so that my mandates, like the
lightning, suffer no resistance or control. My subjects are
°ndowed with virtue and the principles of justice, and refrain
192 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
from all immoral practices; and I am as the sun, blessed with
the light of wisdom to discover the secret designs of men.
Whoever is worthy to be called a Rajah is merciful and just
towards his people. Thieves, robbers, and disturbers of the
peace have at length received the punishment due to their
crimes, and now the word of my mouth is dreaded as the light-
ning from heaven. I am as a great sea among two thousand
rivers and many streamlets; I am as the Mountain Shankru
mentioned in Holy Writ, surrounded by forty thousand hills,
and in like manner my authority extends itself over one hun-
dred and one Rajahs. Moreover, ten thousand Rajahs pay
daily attendance at my Durbar, and my country excels every
country in the world. My palace, as the heavens, studded with
gold and precious stones, is revered more than any other place
in the universe; my occupations resemble those of the chief
angels. And I have written unto all the provinces of Arracan,
with orders to forward this letter safely to Chittagong, formerly
subject to the Moghul Rajah, by whom the country was culti-
wated and populated, and who erected twenty-four hundred
places of public worship, and made four and twenty tanks.
Previous to my accession to the throne, my country was sub-
ject to other Rajahs, who had indeed the title of Chatterdary,
who erected places of worship, and appointed priests to
administer the rites of religion to people of every denomina-
tion. At that period, however, the country was ill-governed,
previous to the accession of Rajah Serytumah Chaka, who
governed with justice and ability, and his wisdom was as a
shining light, and the people happy under his administration.
He was also favoured with the friendship of the religious men
of the age, one of whom, by name Buddha, resorted to his place
of residence, and was solicited by the Rajah to appoint someone
for the purpose of instructing him in religious rites. Thaw-
hmarey was accordingly appointed, agreeably to the Rajah’s
requisition. At this time it rained from heaven, gold, silver,
and precious stones, which were buried underground, in charge
of the said priest, whose house also was of gold and silver work-
manship, to which the people resorted to worship the deity; and
the Rajah kept a large establishment of servants and slaves at
the temple, for the service of travellers and passengers, and his
time was occupied in studying the five books. He always re-
CHITTAGONGe 193
frained from immoral practices, and from deeds interdicted by
his religion, and his priests abstained from the flesh of geese,
pigeons, hogs, and fowls. Wickedness and theft, adultery,
falsehood and intoxication, were unknown at that time.
I also, in like manner, preserve a line of conduct and religion
similar to the above; but, previous to my conquest of Arracan,
the people were as Snakes, wounding men, a prey to enmity and
disorder, and in some parts there were eaters of the flesh of
men, and wickedness prevailed amongst them, so that no man
relied upon his neighbour.
At this time, one Bāddha Dutta, otherwise called Serrybote
Thakoor, came down to the country of Arracan, and instructed
the people and the beasts of the field in the principles of re-
ligion and rectitude, and, according to his word, the country
was governed for a period of five hundred years, so that peace
and good-will subsisted amongst men. Agreeably hereto is the
tenour of my conduct, and the government of my people; and,
as there is an oil, the product of a certain spot in the earth, of
exquisite flavour, so is my dignity and power above that of all
other Rajahs; and Jafboo, the high-priest, having consulted
with others of the same class, represented to me, on the 15th
of the month Praso, 1148, saying, “Do you enforce the laws
and customs of Serrybote Thakoor,” which I accordingly have
done, and have, moreover, erected places of divine worship, and
have conformed myself strictly to the laws of Serytumah
Chaka, governing my people with lenity and justice.
Now, as the country of Arracan lies contiguous to Chittagong,
if a treaty of commerce were established between me and the
English, perfect unity and alliance would ensue from such
engagements. I, therefore, have submitted it to you that the
merchants of your country should resort hither for the purpose
of purchasing pearls, ivory, and wax, and that in return, my
people should be permitted to resort to Chittagong for the
Purpose of trafficking in such commodities as the country may
afford; but, as the Mughs residing in Chittagong have devi.
ated from the principles of religion and morality, they ought
to be corrected for their errors and irregularities according to
the written laws, insomuch as those invested with power will
suffer eternal punishment in case of any deviation from their
religion and laws; but whoever conforms his conduct to the
13
194 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
strict rules of piety and religion will hereafter be translated to
heaven.
I have accordingly sent four elephant's tusks, under the
charge of thirty persons, who will return with your answer to
the above proposals, and offers of alliance and friendship.
These letters were received by the Chief of Chitta-
gong during the administration of Lord Cornwallis
as Governor-General of India. They were followed
up almost immediately by the entrance into British
territory of an army, under the orders of the Rajah
of Arracan. The Chief of Chittagong, in the same
month, wrote to the Governor-General, reporting the
incursion, and stating that he had declined to respond
to the overtures of alliance until this armed force was
withdrawn. At the same time, he reported that, in
his opinion, the refugees should be driven from
British territory; and he further added that the
fugitives were undoubtedly persons of consequence,
and subjects of the Rajah of Arracan.
Previous to this, as long before as the year 1777,
it appears from a letter, dated 31st of May of that
year, from the Chief of Chittagong to the Honourable
Warren Hastings, then Governor-General, that some
thousands of hill-men had come from Arracan into
Chittagong limits, having been offered encouragement
to settle there by a Mr. Bateman, who appears to
have been the chief Government official in the district
at that period.
Migrations of this description had evidently been
a long-standing grievance with the Burmese autho-
rities. Macfarlane's “History of British India,”
(p. 355), records that in 1795 a Burmese army of
five thousand men pursued some rebellious chiefs,
CHITTAGONG. 195
or, as they were called, robbers, into English terri-
tory. These chiefs, who had thus sought refuge
within our limits, were eventually given up to the
Burmese, and two out of the three were put to death
with atrocious tortures.
Up to 1809, disputes of this sort continued to
occur on the frontiers of Chittagong; but the organ-
ized forays into our territory consequent thereon,
apparently passed without active resistance until
the year 1823, when a rupture ensued, leading
to the war of 1824, and the eventual annexation of
Arracan.
The foregoing disquisition is necessary, as it will
explain much that afterwards occurred, during my
subsequent residence in the Chittagong district and
on the frontier. I will now return to my own per-
Sonal narrative. -
From the first, I conceived a great liking for my
new district, and by the end of the year I had com-
fortably settled down in the saddle, with reins well
in hand, so far as concerned the police work of the
district. Socially, as well as officially, I found the
change from Noacolly to Chittagong delightful. To
be rid of my Noacolly magistrate alone was a weight
of many tons lifted from my soul; he, from the first,
had done his utmost to make life unpleasant to
me, whereas at Chittagong I was received by both
Commissioner and magistrate in the most friendly
manner, while I was invited by the chaplain of the
station to share his house, until such time as I could
find a convenient dwelling of my own.
The parson’s house, like those of all the other
European residents, was set on a hill, from whence one
13 *
196 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
commanded a charming view of the river, and of the
adjacent country. Far away to the south stretched
a broad green plain, interspersed with mango and
palm groves, through which wound the silver reaches
of the Karna-phūli; while to the east rose range after
range of blue hills, said to be inhabited by wild and
savage tribes, of whom I learnt much more later on.
To the west and south-west lay the great Indian
Ocean, whence daily, at sunset, came a refreshing
breeze, which often wafted with it up the river some
white-winged ship, full of English faces, to remind
one of the old country so far away. -
Shortly before my arrival, the district had suf-
fered from a fearful hurricane, which had rolled in
upon the coast an enormous storm-wave, destroying
the crops, and rendering the land salt and unfit
for cultivation. Its chief force, however, had ex-
pended itself about Calcutta, and we read of roofs
whirled into the air; of great ships, a thousand and
fifteen hundred tons burden, being carried bodily
into the middle of rice-fields, or sunk at their moor-
ings, while the very crows were dashed to death
against the walls of houses. Now, however, all was
calm and peaceful ; the cold weather was setting in,
and with pleasant anticipations, I commenced pre-
parations for the annual tour of inspection, when I
hoped to see for myself what my new district was
like.
The first piece of official work I was called upon
to do was the preparation, at the Commissioner's
request, of a scheme for the fortification and defence
of the post and station of Chittagong. This I duly,
and with much thought, prepared and submitted ;
CHITTAGONG. 197
and it was, I doubt not, with equal care, read, doc-
ketted, and pigeon-holed, as many thousands of other
schemes annually are. At any rate, I heard no more
of it, and ten years afterwards the port was as
defenceless as it was on my arrival there.
I had still, in some mysterious manner, been
allowed to remain an officer in Her Majesty's 104th
Regiment. My application for permission to join
the Staff Corps had at least the effect of producing a
cessation of my Colonel's mandates to join ; but I
now received an official letter from the officer com-
manding the regiment, informing me that, unless I
passed the examination in drill and other subjects,
prescribed by regulation, my name, which stood first
on the list for promotion to the rank of Captain,
would be passed over, and I should be superseded
by a junior officer.
A threat of this description, which might be
viewed with equanimity later in life, assumes por-
tentous dimensions when one is beginning the race;
and I accordingly at once, and with urgency, applied
for leave of absence, to proceed to Calcutta and ap-
pear before the examining board at Fort William.
I had no fears about passing, as I had never allowed
my knowledge of drill or military duties to become
rusty, having always before my eyes the contingency
of a compulsory return to regimental duty. Pending
the receipt of a reply to my application, I determined
to visit the northern part of my district.
My friend the chaplain had been called upon to
celebrate a marriage at Comillah, the next district
beyond Noacolly, he being the nearest available
clergyman ; so we bore each other company as far
198 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
as the river Fenny, the northern boundary of the
Chittagong district, where I bade him farewell, and
returned by easy stages along the coast, visiting the
different police stations along the road, and ac-
quiring all the information I could as to people and
places. -
I had been specially enjoined to pay a visit to
Sita-khūnd, the fountain of the goddess Sita, a holy
place much resorted to by pilgrims, and where the
goddess was said to manifest herself not unfrequently
to devout worshippers. This sacred spot was situ-
ated about mid-way in the Nizampore hills, a coast
range which ran parallel to the sea for a considerable
distance. The road to the shrine ascended by easy
sloping terraces, which had been cut with some skill
and considerable labour in the hill-side. I rode up
these, accompanied by two of my servants, one car-
rying a gun, the other my sketch-book, in lazy Indian
fashion.
At the foot of the ascent we passed a sacred stone,
thickly daubed with vermilion, on which was carved
the effigy of Hanumán, the monkey-god. The dwell-
ing of the Mahunt, or chief priest, was situated
about half-way up the mountain. He was, in fact,
the proprietor of the shrine, and made a very hand-
some income from the offerings of the faithful.
Here were numerous time-worn temples, their roofs
overgrown with moss and waving grasses. Within
each of these stood a “phallus,” the emblem of
creative power as embodied in Brahma, being an
upright black stone, strewn with the white flowers
of the chumeli, and Scarlet madun blossoms.
The Mahunt did not deign to receive my salu-
CHITTAGONG. - 199
tations. His servant was busily employed in the
verandah of the priestly residence, scouring his
pastor's dinner-service of brazen platters and silver
cups, and he informed me that His Holiness was
engaged in worship, and could not be disturbed.
A stream of cool clear water was carried in front of
the house, in troughs formed by lengths of the
betel palm, split in half, and supported on rough
trestles of unhewn logs. The spring had been
diverted from its course far up the hill to do service
here.
The remainder of the ascent being practicable
only on foot, I abandoned my pony, and com-
menced mounting flight after flight of brick stairs
which led up the mountain-side, a thousand in
number, with landings here and there where the
wayfarer might stay awhile to take breath, and look
out on the beautiful landscape which lay beneath and
around.
Glittering in the morning sun shone the sea, with
Some native fishing-boats floating idly on the calm
water; inland a broad expanse of forest land,
broken here and there by clearings and corn-fields,
and dotted with sparsely-scattered homesteads and
moving specks of men and cattle. The bright
green of the young springing rice-crops was flecked
now and again by some silver pool catching the light
like an upturned eye. From the densely-wooded
valley below came the sound of a woodman's axe,
with the occasional crow of a jungle-cock, and once I
heard a barking-deer call. Across the valley to the
right rose an almost perpendicular hill, its whole side
one tangle of long creepers and dense undergrowth,
200 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
save just at the centre, and here a gap showed a
pathway which led across the face of the cliff. As
I gazed at this gap, a striped hyaena passed slowly
along a faintly-outlined track, quite unconscious
that he was observed. -
Up, up, up we went, climbing the apparently
endless succession of well-worn steps, slippery in
places where some mountain-rill ran bubbling hastily
across the path, to plunge into the black gulf of the
gorge below. Sometimes our way lay under over-
hanging crags, bald and grey, but plumy at their
base with grass and fern, until at last the brick
stairway ended abruptly, and the road ran along
comparatively level ground, through tall grass ten
feet high, which formed an archway overhead, until
we stopped before a low vaulted building, of dark
and gloomy aspect, whence issued forth strange
sounds of groaning and hissing, while at the same
moment a hot blast struck our faces as from the
throat of a furnace. It was the fountain of Sita
My men now urgently besought me not to enter
this fearful place, averring that, as we were unac-
companied by a priest, the consequences might be
disastrous. However, as I told them, I certainly
had not toiled up so long an ascent merely to go
back again, and I intended to see whatever was to
be seen ; so, without more ado, I entered the low
arched doorway, and they followed me in great
trepidation. Before us lay a gloomy inner chamber,
in which a red glow fitfully came and went. It
certainly was an uncanny place, and, to a super-
stitious mind, full of terror. We entered the inner
room, and saw before us an opening in the floor of
CHITTAGONG. 201
perhaps twenty feet square, where was a black pool
of water, out of which leaped and danced lambent
tongues of flame. The up-springing of these bright
yellow flames from the water was accompanied by
the groaning, bubbling, and roaring sounds which
had previously disquieted my attendants.
As we stood gazing at the mysterious spectacle,
the sounds suddenly increased with an ominous
and volcanic intensity, while at the same moment a
violent clamour broke out in another part of the
building, a noise of great gongs throbbing and
booming. On this my men fled for their lives.
I pursued my investigations to the adjoining room,
where I found a priest who was busily engaged
in banging a great frame hung with bronze bells.
In answer to my interrogatories, he informed me that
this was certainly the most sacred place in Lower
Bengal, but confessed that the deity appeared only on
rare occasions, and was never visible to anyone save
the holy Mahunt himself, who was specially favoured.
I took another look at the pool. The lambent flames
reminded me of the tongues of fire which descended
on the Apostles at Pentecost. They were doubtless
caused by inflammable gases rising through the
water ; but I could not understand how these gaseous
emanations were ignited, as the flames appeared
and disappeared intermittently, and there was no
steam-vapour. My men exhibited an altogether
remarkable alacrity in going down the mountain.
After concluding my official inspection of the
different police stations along the road, I returned to
the parsonage at Chittagong, which had now been
shut up uninhabited for more than a week, and found
202 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
that the place had been taken possession of by an
army of fleas. I entered the dining-room unsuspi-
ciously, and after a short interval, found the lower
part of my white trousers become quite black with
the creatures swarming upon them. It required un-
limited sweeping and much sprinkling of tobacco-
water before I could re-occupy my old quarters.
The proverb says, “Know a man by his books,”
and it seems to me that a glance at the daily corre-
spondence of an Indian official is an equally true
index of his avocations. Here, as a sample, is a
list of the letters which I found awaiting me on my
return :—1. Letter from the head partner of my
agency firm in Calcutta, offering hospitality should I
visit the City of Palaces. 2. From the sub-editor
of a Calcutta daily paper, sending a remittance for
articles contributed. 3. From the private secretary
of the Inspector-General of Police, asking how I liked
my new district. 4. From Police-Inspector Rozario,
reporting a large illicit salt manufacture at the
mouth of the Pheni river. 5. Anonymous letter,
accusing one of my police officers of taking a bribe.
6. Police report of the burning of a planter's bunga-
low by incendiaries. 7. Letter from the Inspector-
General as to the equipment of the police with boots.
8. From the same, authorising the purchase of the
police yacht “Foam.” 9. From the music-shop at
Calcutta, sending some violoncello strings and music.
10. From the Babu at the Inspector-General's office,
forwarding one hundred rupees, accruing from the
sale of the “Constable’s Manual.” 11. From a
German merchant resident at Calcutta, asking for
information as to the prospects of tea-culture in the
CHITTAGONG. 203
Chittagong district. Beside these, about thirty
English and vernacular missives relating to police
work, and the ever-welcome English mail.
The Commissioner of the Division, who resided at .
Chittagong, was a good violinist, and there were
besides in the station two other fiddlers, one, the
Assistant Magistrate, and the other, Assistant to the
Commissioner. This last was a worthy half-caste
gentleman, a lineal descendant of the Portuguese
pirates, with a very black face, surrounded by a
fringe of very fine white whisker. All that was
needed to complete the quartett was a bass viol;
and I was incited, nay, commanded, by my official
superior, to undertake this instrument. I therefore
procured a violoncello from Calcutta, and for many
days devoted every spare moment to ploughing my
weary way through the rudiments, until at last I
attained sufficient efficiency to attend the musical
Séances as an enthusiastic but weak-kneed member of
the quartett.
“Remember, Lewin,” said the Commissioner, “if
you come to a passage you can't play, don't get con-
fused, but just sway away upon G’’; and not only
in those quartetts, but also in after life, I have
remembered my friend's counsel, and been content to
“sway away on G.”
In December, I got my leave for a month, and
went to Calcutta to pass my examination for the
captaincy. I was specially anxious to reach Calcutta
quickly, as I had received a letter from my old
Shahjehanpore friend and comrade J , informing
me that he was returning from furlough in England,
and would arrive in Calcutta just about the same
--º-º-
204 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
time as I hoped to be there. Curiously enough,
it so fell out that the small coasting steamer in
which I travelled passed the great P. & O. steamer
which had my friend on board as we entered the
Hooghly. The large ocean steamer was waiting for
the tide to rise, and there was my old comrade
waving a salutation from the quarter-deck. We
landed about the same time, and together repaired
to the Club, where we shared the same room. How
glad we were to meet again, and what yarns we spun
together until unearthly hours in the morning. Poor
fellow ! Fortunate, perhaps, it was for us both, that
no shadow of his after fate, and my unhappy connec-
tion with it, dimmed our happy intercourse.
I read hard in Calcutta for a fortnight at such
book-lore as was required for the examination, and
then I went before the examining board, and, after
due sifting, was eventually declared to be a fit and
proper person to command a company in one of Her
Majesty's regiments. This end accomplished, I
returned with all speed to my duties at Chittagong.
My friend J obtained the appointment of Per-
sonal Assistant to the Inspector-General of Police, a
position of confidence and considerable responsibility,
but for which his high character and great abilities
rendered him peculiarly fit.
In the spring of 1865 I started on my second
journey in the Chittagong district, determined, as far
as possible, to see men and things with my own eyes,
and not through the dirty spectacles of the native
officials who hang on to the skirts of every English
officer in India ; so, leaving behind me clerks, ser-
vants, clothes and “square" meals, I shouldered my
CHITTAGONG. 205
rifle, and, with a suit of grey flannel and a pair of soft
yellow bootees, I set forth on foot one fresh early
morning in January on my tour of inspection. I was
accompanied by a Mugh interpreter named Sadu, and
his boy Apo, the latter carrying my revolver and
hunting-knife.
An interpreter was necessary, for as yet I was only
able to speak Hindustani and Bengali, while to the
south of Chittagong one soon passed beyond the
limits of these tongues and entered the zone of Bur-
mese-speaking people, not to mention the hill-dwellers
on the borders of civilization, who are “salvage”
men speaking unknown tongues.
“Le Superflu, chose très necessaire,” as Voltaire
says, was rigorously excluded from my outfit. My
baggage consisted of the clothes I stood up in, and
besides, only a white lawn shirt, a crimson silk waist-
cloth, a tooth-brush, a towel, a piece of soap, and a
comb, which, made up into One Small bundle, was
easily carried by Sadu.
With these slight impedimenta, I now passed a
most delightful time in the jungle ; for the secret of
true happiness, either in life or in travelling, is not
to burthen oneself with unnecessary luggage. Now
and again I would come upon a police station, and
then great would be the consternation, bustle, and
skurry, at the unexpected advent of the strange new
“Sahib,” whose intentions and disposition were as
yet alike unknown quantities, and who, by thus
dropping, as it were, from the clouds upon the peace-
ful constable, evinced uncomfortable vigilance ; or we
would pass the night in a Mugh village, by some
clear swift-flowing jungle stream, where I clothed
206 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
myself in the full white lawn shirt and crimson
waist-cloth (a costume quite de rigueur, and worn as
full dress by the best-bred men in that part of the
country), and sitting on the solid black plank floor of
a Mugh house, would endeavour to converse with,
and reciprocate the civilities of, my hospitable hosts.
Again, I would find myself floating on a river in a
boat made of basket-work, the very corracle of our
British ancestors, while round me closed a mighty
primaeval forest, the enormous trees, thickly hung
with orchids, veiled with grey moss, and strangled
by snake-like creepers, meeting overhead in leafy
canopy and matted with the spring growth of the
cane. Here, in the heart of the land, was a great
dismal swamp, and hither herds of wild elephants
resorted in the cold weather, coming down from their
hill fastnesses to enjoy the luxury of a mud bath—a
wild weird place, worthy in its savage grandeur to be
the haunt of the mammoth or iguanodon. Another
day I can recall the march through the jungle, where
the sun was shut out by the outspread arms of forest
giants; there was little undergrowth, only long sway-
ing creepers, with here and there the exquisite bloom
of some rare orchid, while the ground was thickly
covered in places with monkey-cups, the husks of
monster acorns. There was a silence, a great still-
ness, no sound of any beast or bird, nothing but the
cracking of the dead sticks under the feet of our
party, moving along in Indian file through the wood-
land. -
We often did twenty miles in the day's march,
Sadu carrying my double gun and Apo the bundle.
There was apparently little game in the district ; the
CHITTAGONG. 207
only birds I met with were some Muthūra pheasants,
beautiful birds with scarlet wattles and fine blue-black
plumage, which I shot among the low jungle near
the coast.
I visited and was hospitably received by all sorts
and conditions of men. One tribe, however, the
Rúmi, were unattractive, and I declined to remain a
night in their village, being disgusted by the sight of
a half-skinned dog which was hung up in process of
preparation for the pot, and which, I was informed
by Sadu, had been killed for my dinner ; I therefore
pleaded a pressing engagement and took to the
jungles once more. These Kūmis were nearly
naked, the men wearing only a breech-cloth of the
scantiest description, and in their ears flat discs of
brass, the excessive weight of which dragged down
the lobes, making holes of the bigness of a crown.
piece.
Another and more pleasing tribe was the Tsak, or
Chakma, and in their village I halted a couple of
days. I was housed in the guest-house, a building
which was apparently used as a sort of club by the
males of the village, wherein they congregated to
smoke and chat when the day's work was done. They
were the jolliest folk imaginable, always laughing and
merry. Immense was the interest excited by my
breech-loading gun, and when I fired off the six
chambers of my revolver in rapid succession, the
applause and satisfaction knew no limits. It was at
once proposed that I should become a public bene-
factor by killing an elephant, for the flesh of an ele-
phant, they said, would supply the whole village with
food for months. I had never seen a wild elephant,
208 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and, with the courage bred by ignorance of danger,
I rashly assented.
Accordingly in the evening I sallied forth on the
adventure, accompanied by Apo, who carried my gun,
and by a Tsak, a cunning hunter, named Hla-pwa-thu
(by interpretation, “he who issues forth beautiful”),
and to whom, I was informed, fear was unknown.
Scouts had been sent out the day before to get news
of a herd and to make preparations. A small bamboo
platform had been constructed, some twelve feet high,
commanding a view of a small pool to which the
elephants resorted at night to bathe.
I felt somewhat doubtful as to the result of my
expedition, this being my first attempt at this kind of
game, and it was not without misgivings that I took
my seat on the frail structure where I was to lie in
ambush. It was ten o'clock at night, and very cold;
the small platform, at a height of twelve feet from
the ground, creaked and shook as I seated myself,
followed by my two attendants, and settled down,
miles away from all things and people civilized, in an
unknown forest, waiting for behemoth to come to
bathe.
We sat thus for some hours, and very uncomfort-
able hours they were; Apo, of course, promptly went
to sleep, and I would willingly have followed his
example, but had the cramp so badly that I could not
manage it.
Suddenly, the unpronounceable one quietly laid
his hand on my arm and pointed to something in the
darkness. Yes! there they were. My first wild
elephants! dimly discernible in the dusk and gloom of
the star-light. There were five of them, and I felt
CHITTAGONG., 209
vaguely glad that there were no more : first came a
big tusker, then two smaller elephants, and lastly
a female with a young one. I waited breathlessly,
until I got what I thought was a fair aim at the ear
of the tusker, and then I fired. Bang! Off crashed
four of the elephants like a tornado through the
jungle, while the tusker remained standing as if
stunned. At that moment, the wretch Apo, who had
awakened at the noise of the gun, cried out “He’s hit!
he’s hit !” and thereupon, his attention being directed
to us by this outcry, the diabolical tusker rushed
straight at our frail platform. I saw his great trunk
rear itself up in the air, and then, crash! everything
went into chaos. I and the guns, with Apo and the
unpronounceable one, were scattered to the four
winds. We fell, fortunately, among thick high grass,
which grew close and rank immediately behind
the spot where we had made our ambush, and to
this circumstance we probably owed our lives. We
lay in the grass as we fell, without moving an eye-
lash, and the tusker, after venting his wrath by
demolishing the platform, departed “grommeling.”
I was badly bruised by the fall, and one of the
guns was broken ; Apo had cut his head, and the
fearless hunter confessed that on this occasion only
his heart had turned to water ; and so, for that
time at least, our hunting ended, and I returned to
my duties at Chittagong.
English capital at this period poured into the
Chittagong district in the shape of tea investments.
Large tracts of waste jungle-land were offered for
sale by Government on very easy terms, and tea-
gardens sprang into existence on every side. This
14
210 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
sudden influx of European energy into the district
could not take place without considerable friction
with the natives, who claimed rights of pasturage,
wood-cutting, and the like, in the waste lands, the fee
simple of which had been disposed of by Government,
and ill-feeling was thus engendered between the
natives and planters, which manifested itself chiefly
in that most vindictive and troublesome of crimes,
incendiarism. It was so easily done, caused so much
injury, and was so difficult of detection, that many
cases occurred; and I can vouch by personal experi-
ence that no form of police investigation is so trouble-
some and difficult as an inquiry into a case of
al’SOIl.
I was asked, about this time, whether I wished to
be removed to a better or a more healthy district,
Chittagong having an unenviable reputation for fever,
but I replied in the negative. I had hitherto had
good health, my work interested me, and there was
also, I thought, probable openings in the Chittagong
district not to be found elsewhere; the far-away blue
hills of the south-west frontier seemed to beckon me,
and my appetite for jungle adventure, and the free
wild life of the wilderness, had been whetted by my
late trip to the south.
I had found that at least one-half of my dis-
trict was peopled by men and women of a like
nature to myself, I mean those of Burmese origin
and the hill tribes ; they were pleasanter to deal
with, more manly, more easy to understand, than the
cringing, cowardly, lying, litigious Bengalis who
formed the population of almost any other district in
Lower Bengal that I could hope to get. The Bur-
CHITTAGONG. 211
man, or Mugh, was a fellow-creature, without caste
prejudices, with a noble religion, with whom I could
eat, drink, and make fellowship ; the Chittagong
Bengali was like a fox with a cross of the cat—not a
man and a brother for me by any means. But
although I had no desire to be transferred from
Chittagong to any other district, I would gladly have
exchanged my police appointment for some other work
affording more scope for energy, more outlook for
ambition. The police department, I found, was a cul-
de-Sac—once a policeman, always a policeman ; and I
applied to Colonel Phayre, the Chief Commissioner of
British Burmah, seeking employment in the Burmese
Commission, not, however, with much hope of success,
as an appointment in India at that time was rarely to
be obtained save through the usual channels of
patronage and promotion.
In June of this year I had my first experience of
the local fever and ague which had gained for the
Chittagong district so unenviable a notoriety, and
having been prostrated for two days, was advised by
the doctor to try change of air. I therefore deter-
mined to visit Cox's Bazaar, the head-quarters of the
southern sub-division, situated on the coast about a
hundred miles south. I wondered vaguely who Mr.
Cox might have been, who had given his name to the
place; but my head being very dizzy, from large and
repeated doses of quinine, I postponed the considera-
tion of this to a future occasion.
In the small police yacht, which was at my disposal,
I found great solace and contentment. She was yawl
rigged, with two large comfortable cabins, pulling
six sweeps a side, for river-work. In this boat, the
14 *
212 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
“Foam,” I made arrangements for my trip, and,
leaving Chittagong on the 11th of June, sailed and
rowed along by devious inland channels, striking
behind islands, and circumventing mighty Father
Neptune by all means in our power until, on the 17th
of the same month, we arrived at the Bazaar of Cox.
Mr. Cox, I now ascertained, was a primaeval
magistrate, who had founded the settlement many
years before, in the reign of Warren Hastings.
It was a quaint timber town, quite different in
appearance to the mat and mud structures of Bengal.
The houses were all built solidly, with a platform and
framework of massive teak beams—the floors of stout
planks, and the roofs of carved wood-work with a
palm-leaf thatch.
In dress, habits, and religion the inhabitants were
as unlike Bengalis as the houses were unlike Bengali
dwellings. A light-hearted race were the Mughs of
Cox's Bazaar, taking life cheerfully. They had no
idea of hard work, or labour of any sort, save fishing
and trading in ships, and passed their time when on
land sauntering about, clad in bright-coloured silks,
smoking small rolls of tobacco, with a flower in the ear
and a smile on the lip. Feastings innumerable went
on, consisting of saucers of fish, with highly-seasoned
vegetable condiments, and a back-ground of rice ;
this, with flirting, praying, and the attendance of
dramatic performances, made up their daily round.
The men probably worked hard when away from
home on the sea, whether as fishermen or traders ;
but certainly when on shore they did nothing more
than what I have stated. Their women seemed to
enjoy perfect freedom of action. They went unveiled,
CHITTAGONG. 213
and conversed freely with friends and acquaintances
with much propriety, buying, selling, and guiding
household affairs. The elders among them were
treated with great respect. The younger ones
carried dainty umbrellas, and were curious in the
arrangement of the single rich silken petticoat which
was the universal feminine wear. Their glossy black
hair, fastened in a knot behind, was adorned with
sprays of orchid and other gay-coloured blossoms.
Even in the measurement of time they were
original and peculiar. The night was divided into,
first, children's bed-time, from eight to ten ; then
old folks' bed-time, from ten to eleven ; and lastly,
young folks' bed-time, from eleven to twelve. During
this last hour the young people were left free from
the restraint of the presence of their elders, and this
was, par eacellence, the time for courting. -
The night after my arrival at Cox's Bazaar, I was
invited to attend a Burmese “poi,” or dramatic
representation, given by a troop of strolling actors.
It was scarcely dark when I left the “Foam,”
moored in the creek, and proceeded to the theatre,
which was simply a large tent or awning, pitched
on a grassy sward on the outskirts of the town.
On reaching the spot, I took possession of the
chair which had been respectfully placed in a good
position for the “Sahib's ’’ accommodation, and looked
around. It was a curious scene. The whole area
Was closely packed with spectators, men, women,
and children, all sitting on the ground, all smoking
long rolls of fresh tobacco, and all intensely interested
in the drama, which was in course of performance
when I arrived.
214 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
The pole supporting the centre of the awning was
wreathed with garlands of green leaves and flowers.
The stage occupied one entire side of the area, and
being simply a stretch of grass, was, of course, on
a level with the spectators. The proscenium was
marked off by a long row of strange-looking masks
hanging pendant from a suspended bamboo ; there
were grotesque human faces, masks of devils, grin-
ning and glaring, heads of bears and horses, and
even detached arms and legs were hung here and
there. The whole row was kept in wavy, jerking
motion by a man who sat on one side puffing a cigar,
and gently pulling a string, one end of which was
attached to the bamboo from which the masks were
suspended, and the other to his toe. The slow move-
ment of his foot gave the masks a fantastic jiggity-jig,
that lent a weird life to the long line of heads that
glared upon the audience. -
The orchestra was on the left of the stage, and
consisted mainly of drums. These were placed in a
large circle, a regular family of tom-toms, from the
big bummer, used to emphasize a male chorus,
down to the smallest tenor drums, upon which love-
songs were accompanied. One active performer
marshalled the whole of this battalion, and in his
concentrated activity brought to mind the local
proverb, “On the day of the wedding the mother-
in-law is like a pea in a brass plate ’’; so our chef
d'orchestre sprang hither and thither at his drums,
never resting a moment.
In the centre of this charmed circle sat a virtuoso,
who had a divided responsibility. Sometimes he
performed upon a clapper of white wood, with which
CHITTAGONG. 215
he intercalated passages of asperity and rage; at
others he devoted himself in a dreamy manner to
the evoking of wails from an instrument that had
affinities with both clarionet and trumpet, and which
I felt convinced was the “shawm " of Biblical
memory. There were besides two flute players.
When I took my seat, the stage was in possession
of the basso profundo, who, in the character of a
Chinese monarch, accompanied by six of his courtiers
(all smoking cigars), walked in the gardens of his
palace, and lamented the sad, sad infatuation of his
daughter, the Princess A-hla, for a penniless scamp,
whose name and attributes I failed to arrive at. The
courtiers intoned between whiles a chorus of sympa-
thetic condolence, taking furtive pulls at their cigars
to keep them alight. The monarch himself stooped
to light his weed at one of the foot-lights, which
were cotton wicks burning in small earthen saucers
of cocoanut-oil, when the good-looking scamp entered
with much humility, and in dumb-show entreated
the forgiveness of the irate monarch. Here occurred
a grand opportunity for orchestral display, in which
the Shawm specially distinguished itself. A duo
followed, which culminated in the angry parent
tearing the flower from the scamp's ear and chasing
him off the stage.
The next scene disclosed the beautiful princess,
who with two female attendants had fled from the
paternal roof, and was now supposed to have lost
her way in a forest peopled by ogres of the most
carnivorous description. The lament of the princess,
who was an extremely pretty girl, was quite pathetic,
and when she sank down on the grass, overcome
216 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
with fatigue and anguish, the audience was carried
away with sympathy. Now, of course, the lover
entered on the scene, accompanied by a faithful
henchman, who was evidently the comic man of the
piece, judging by the sallies with which he convulsed
the audience, and I have no doubt that the play came
to a happy conclusion at some period before dawn ;
but as the leisurely proceedings which I have nar-
rated had already occupied some two hours in per-
formance, and it was “old folks' bed-time,” I
sought the refuge of my mosquito-curtains on board
the “Foam.”
While at Cox's Bazaar I received a visit from a
wealthy Mugh merchant, a resident of the place,
named Chyn-hla-phaw, who carried on a consider-
able trade between Calcutta and Burmah. He had
a fair colloquial knowledge of Hindostani, acquired
during his trading operations, and I seized the oppor-
tunity to discuss with him the subject of Buddhism,
the national religion of Burmah, as well as of the
Burmese inhabitants of British territory, who are
known to us under the generic name of Mughs. He
was a pithy man, full of apothegms, such as, “The
prison is shut night and day, yet it is always full,”
or “The pleasure of doing good is the only one that
never wears out.” I have found, indeed, more true
and sincere religious feeling among Buddhists than
among any other Eastern people.
The contrast between Buddhism and Hinduism is
wonderfully clear and sharp-edged, and I wondered
whether it is from the character of the people that a
religion takes its colour, or if the faith moulds its
votaries. As I talked with my friend Chyn-hla-
CHITTAGONG. 217
phaw, a saying of Carlyle's recurred to my mind :
“Hast thou considered that thought is stronger than
artillery parks, and models the world, like soft clay ?
also how the beginning of all thought worth the name,
is Love, and the wise head never yet was without
the generous heart.”
The religion of the Brahmans is a gloomy one ;
how can it indeed be otherwise, when the large
majority of the Hindu race is trodden under foot
by the governing caste of priests. The Brahmans
have a finger in everything ; in marriage feasts, at
funerals, in all fasts and festivals, the priest must
be fed and feed, no matter what the cost. The
ritual, too, is grotesque and melancholy, while the
comparatively low intellectual position and seclusion
of the female sex must tend to sadden still further
the lives of millions.
Among the Buddhists no such religious tyranny
exists. The priesthood is open to all ; indeed, at
Some period in life almost every man becomes a
priest, it may be only for a week, it may be for long
years, as the profession can be entered into or left
at will. The present King of Burmah, for instance,
wore the yellow robe of the priesthood before he was
called to the throne. If a young man is disappointed
in love, he assumes the garb of the priest, and carries
the alms-bowl, shaves his head, and learns long
prayers. The repentant robber finds a refuge in the
temple, and may there purify himself by a life of
self-abnegation. Every morning the “phoon-gyee,”
clad in his yellow robe, and carrying his alms-bowl,
solemnly walks through the streets. He speaks to
no one, looks neither to the right nor left ; but the
218 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
bowl is none the less speedily filled with his day's
food, and were it not so he would have to remain
hungry. It is considered an act of high merit to
minister to the men who have turned their backs
upon the world, and abjured its pleasures in order to
attain deliverance from desire, and the “phoon-
gyee’s ” bowl is never left empty.
Benevolence is esteemed the greatest of virtues,
and to do no harm to any living creature is the cardinal
maxim of Buddhism. “Receive your thoughts as
guests but your desires as children.”
One dogma is held alike by both Buddhist and
Hindu, the doctrine of the transmigration of souls.
Both alike thus seek the solution of that most difficult
problem of humanity—the reason for the great dif-
ference in our respective lots ; why one to honour
and another to dishonour ; why One to health and
happiness and another to sickness and misery. The
Brahman has adroitly turned the great question into
an engine of Sacerdotal oppression, declaring that
none could hope to attain deliverance save by a strict
observance of ceremonial law.
Buddhism is a revolt against this tyranny. Buddha
formulated the great principle of universal benevo-
lence and equality, and taught that future happiness,
together with ultimate deliverance, was to be ob-
tained, not by slaying animals in sacrifice, or feeding
multitudes of Brahmans, but by the practice of
individual charity, truth, honesty, and purity. If
a man does well in this body, he will have another
existence of a higher grade ; riches, happiness, and
long life will then be his portion in this world ; and
if he continue in well-doing through a series of exis-
CHITTAGONG. 219
tences, he will rise in the scale of individual souls
to a superhuman state of felicity, attaining in rare
instances even to absorption into the Divine Essence
—a loss of individuality, it is true, but an inde-
scribable and incomparable gain in bliss. This
crowning state is called Nirvana.
I submitted to Chyn-hla-phaw that the population
of the world was continually increasing in numbers,
and asked him what was his theory as to the new
souls—whence did they come. He accounted for it
by saying that there was a world of inferior spirits,
who were subject to temptation and fall even as
human beings were, and that to the wrong-doers
among these was assigned an earthly probation. We
held long converse together, and parted with mutual
esteem; and thus began a friendship which I am glad
to say continued undiminished as long as I remained
in India.
I took the “Foam ” out to sea next evening. It
was beautifully calm, with a soft breeze from the
south, and very dark. The sea in places shone
bright with phosphorescent light, like latent moon-
shine stored in ocean. The wind was favourable ; I
had finished my official inspection of Cox's Bazaar,
I had bathed on the white sands, and eaten of the
oysters for which the place was famous, and now gave
the word to Abdúl Manjee, who had the helm, to put
her head towards Chittagong.
I got back to Chittagong on the 27th of June.
We came up the river on the flood, and on arriving
abreast of the jetty, I gave the order to “let go.”
The chain rattled and rumbled out of the hawse-hole,
and then, from the shadow of the great black wooden
220 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
jetty, my boat shot out, manned by four policeman in
blue shirts and scarlet turbans, with my fat, oily
Bengali Court Inspector weighing down the stern.
He brought a large budget of letters—there is no
rest for the official; so I mounted my grey pacing
pony, which was waiting for me at the stairs, and
swiftly ambled through the town up to my small
bungalow on the hill-top, with its walls of matting
brightly varnished, and wood framework all painted
sea-green, which I called home.
I had to rise early every morning at Chittagong, in
order to attend parade and superintend the drilling of
my men. I do not know why, but early rising had
.* always been a trial to me from my school-days down
to my late campaigning in the Mutiny. I liked it
none the better now that I had no commanding officer
to ordain when I should get out of bed ; but I had
to get up none the less for that. I have always
wondered at the smug self-complacency of the early-
riser. Why should a person arrogate virtue to him-
self simply because his capacity for sleep is limited,
the simple fact being that some sleep fast while others
sleep slowly. I am a slow sleeper; and, indeed, have
always regarded my abandonment of military life
proper as materially adding to my length of days, by
enabling me to take such periods of repose as are
demanded by exhausted nature. In the primary
geological formations no trace of man's existence has
been discovered, and, in like manner, the earlier hours
of the morning are an eocene period unfit for the
sustentation of humanity.
Rising thus somewhat unwillingly, one fine clear
morning at six o'clock, I solaced myself by the view
CHITTAGONG. 221
of the blue distant hills, with fleecy cloud lines
floating here and there on their summits; they seemed
to lay a spell upon me and to beckon me towards them.
The hill country for the most part lay beyond the
limits of the Chittagong district, and therefore out-
side my legitimate sphere of action ; but perhaps the
charm was none the less on that account, omne igno-
tum pro magnifico. There was an English officer in
charge of this undefined hill territory, and I had
occasionally met him on his visits to Chittagong; but
he seemed strangely unaware of his opportunities,
speaking of the hills as hateful, and seeming to know
little and care less about their inhabitants. His
head-quarters were situated at Chandragúna, a day's
journey up the river, just at the junction of the hills
with the plains. All the hill country to the south of
the river Karna-phūli was practically unknown, and
much of it had never been visited by Europeans. I
collected with avidity all the stories I could hear of the
wild tribes, the Kūkis, Shendús, Mrüngs, and others,
who dwelt on our borders and traded in our frontier
marts, and who occasionally made forays into British
territory for the purpose of taking heads and obtain-
ing slaves. I found, however, that little reliable
information was obtainable ; the only people who
visited the unknown country being the wood-cutters,
who banded themselves together each year in the
cold weather, and went up the river to fell the larger
and more valuable timber in the forests of the inte-
rior. They were acquainted only with the tribes
who were nominally under British control ; while of
the Kūkis, Lūshais, Shendüs, and other independent
tribes they spoke with bated breath, recounting fables
222 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
evidently unworthy of credence, stories of men with
tails and villages built in trees—a host of improba-
bilities.
What little I did hear, however, more and more
fed the longing which had seized me to go and see for
myself. I had a long talk with the Commissioner on
the subject, and he, after hearing all I had to say,
was disposed to back me in making an expedition to
the hills ; and, having thus assured myself of his
support, I submitted a formal application to the head
of my own department, setting forth my intention of
travelling in the hills during the approaching cold
season, and asking for a small grant of money to buy
presents and defray the expenses of the journey.
The Commissioner of the division was a very good
friend to me in private, beside supporting me offi-
cially. He was in many ways a remarkable man,
and in our talks and walks together I learned much
from him. He was a true Liberal in politics.
“Do not be misled,” said he, “by the so-called
aristocracy of Conservatism. A Liberal is just as
ready as the bluest Conservative to give his life for
Queen or country; he does not simply by being a
Liberal desire the downfall of the Bench of Bishops,
or a communism of property. The true Liberal, in
fact, has but one cardinal dogma ; he believes in the
perfectibility of the human race. The advocacy of
mere outward equality is a bar to all true progress,
but liberty full and absolute there must be for each
one to rise according to individual merit. I recognise
in my manhood no inferiority to the manhood of
another. I give place to the Lieutenant-Governor of
Bengal, for he is now my official superior; but I may be
CHITTAGONG. 223
one day myself the Governor of a province. A Peer
of the United Kingdom has the better of me in many
things, and I grudge him not his advantages, for the
road is open to all. There is George Campbell of our
Indian Civil Service, his uncle raised himself from
being a small Scottish lawyer to be Lord Chancellor
and Peer of the realm. Liberty, and the right of
each one to do his best, that is the true creed of a
Liberal.”
Thanks to the good offices of this kind friend, the
Inspector-General of Police authorised me to expend
a certain sum in the purchase of presents for the
wild folk; and I was given to understand, demi-
officially, that I might go into the hills for ten days
or so, but that no official sanction could be accorded
to my expedition. In other words, if I went at all
it was strictly at my own risk.
I was glad, however, to obtain permission on any
terms, and accordingly at once commenced my pre-
parations for the journey. I laid in a stock of scarlet
broadcloth, glass beads of divers colours, brass rings,
bracelets of lac and tinsel very beautiful to behold,
not forgetting sundry cases of strong liquor. I was
told by the Bengali wood-cutters, to whom I have
before alluded, that the hill-men were great drinkers,
and hard-headed to boot ; so I took with me some
bottles of spirits of wine, which I hoped would floor
the strongest head among them. I also borrowed a
couple of elephants to carry my baggage, and ordered
for my own convenience a folding bed, consisting of
a stretcher of canvas, with a framework for mosquito
curtains ; a camp-chair of iron and canvas, with a
small folding table, and the necessary cooking pots
224 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and pans, completed my equipment. The whole was
divisible into coolie loads, as I was informed that after
leaving the plains and entering the hilly country
beyond I should have to abandon my elephants.
We had a farewell music party at the Commis-
sioner's the night before my departure, when we
played Weber’s “Der Freyschutz,” arranged as a
quartett ; and at early dawn of the following morn-
ing I started on my expedition into the unknown
country towards which I felt myself so irresistibly
impelled.
225
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SHENDUS.
1865–66.
I HAD pondered long and deeply over my plans, and
had determined to strike south-east. To the north
and north-east of Chittagong lay an uninteresting
country, the greater portion being “regulation dis-
tricts” of the province of Bengal, and the remainder,
ruled by the Tipra Rajah, was for the most part
scrub-jungle, sparsely inhabited, with broad plains
overgrown with high “sunn " grass. To the east, I
might have followed the course of the river Karna-
phuli, which had its source far away in the Lushai
hills; but on the border was stationed the Superin-
tendent of Hill Tribes, who would probably ask
what was my business in his jurisdiction. After a
careful study of such maps as were available, I had
arrived at the conclusion that by going some distance
southwards and then striking east I should get across
to Burmah, perhaps, if I went far enough, to China.
It seemed clear, at least, that by this route I should
strike the head-waters of rivers running into Burmah,
and so attain to an unknown country where no Euro-
pean had hitherto penetrated. These cogitations,
however, I kept carefully locked within my own
15
226 A FLY ON THE WHEEL,
breast, knowing full well that exploration or dis-
covery formed no part of the duty of the “perfect
policeman.” All I wanted was to get loose in the
hills, after which, “Vogue la galère’—we should
See what we should see.
It was on the 14th of November 1865 that I set
forth on my expedition. I was accompanied by two
native servants, besides an escort of six policemen,
under the command of a staunch old Punjabi sergeant
named Fyzullah Khan, who had attached himself to
my fortunes, following me from Hazaribagh. We
had two elephants to carry the baggage, which was
severely limited in quantity. I trusted for food to
the supplies of the country which we were about to
traverse ; the bulkiest part of the baggage was the
two bales of presents for the hill people, and these
being the sinews of war were specially looked after,
and packed carefully before anything else on the back
of the largest elephant.
I marched south, following the line of my police
stations, in order to have the advantage of good roads
as far as possible before plunging into the forest, and
on the 20th of November I reached Manikptir, the
last village at which I should camp in the plains. By
this time we had done six days of steady marching,
and the whole party was consequently in good walk-
ing case. Little by little I had discovered and left
behind all superfluous articles of clothing or equip-
ment which my escort had brought with them, and
my party was now absolutely in the lightest marching
order; this was the more necessary as at Manikpār
we had to abandon the elephants, our baggage being
conveyed, after that, either on the backs of coolies or
THE SHENDUS. 227
in boats, as circumstances might direct. I had dis-
carded my small tent at the outset, leaving it behind
on the second day’s march as superfluous, and I now
still further reduced my outfit, confining my table
equipage to one iron pot, a frying-pan, and two tin
plates, with a knife and fork.
On leaving Manikpár and entering the hills the
scenery became wilder and more beautiful, and I
experienced a growing sensation of delight at having
at last cast loose from civilized man. How joyful
was the thought that a few days more of travel
would place me beyond reach even of the post, and
that consequently, by no possibility could I be recalled
from my journey.
Our route lay by a narrow hill-stream, along
which we poled our way in dug-out canoes, until, on
the 29th of November, I reached a village of the
Mrúng tribe, and there halted to gain information
and arrange for a change of transport.
The worthy Roaja, or village head-man, politely
offered me the hospitality of his house; but I pre-
ferred being independent, and camped on the banks
of the small stream below. The weather was cloud-
less and beautiful, so that I had no need of shelter,
and my escort being some of them bigoted Hindus,
objected to occupying quarters in a Mráng village,
alleging that by so doing they would be defiled. So
I encamped on a sand-bank beside the small stream
up which we had come, and which sped by on its
bright rapid course to the plains, the water tumbling
and foaming, fringed at the brink with plumy fern
and wet moss sparkling like emeralds, and bottomed
With sun-flecked stones that looked purple and golden
15 +
228 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
in the dancing light. A little lower down the stream
lay a labyrinth of great gray boulders and hummocks
of rock, which must have been rolled down from the
hills above on angry days of flood and fury. Here I
established myself, spreading my mat and rugs under
a tree, while the faithful Toby, my Mugh cook,
occupied himself not far off in preparing my dinner.
Poor Tobyl his feelings were sorely outraged by
the uncivilized proceedings of the last few days, for,
be it known, he had been to Calcutta, and had even
served as a scullion at Government House, so that he
flattered himself he really did know the correct
manner in which things should be done. Now the
present wild and barbarous mode of travelling was
quite beyond his experience. In the first place, he
had been limited to two pots; this was a misfortune,
but, as I pointed out to him, it offered great oppor-
tunities of distinction, and would enable him to show
(as I believed) that he could do more with two pots
than any other cook with a whole batterie de cuisine.
Mollified by this compliment, he retired pacified for
the moment, but shortly afterwards returned with
expostulation written in every lineament.
“Sahib I am I expected to cook this animal for your
dinner P”
He held in his hand a fine fat frog which, together
with some rice and vegetables, had been sent by the
Roaja for our consumption. I had to compound
with Toby by requesting that the frog might be
cooked for me, in the correct way, by one of the
hill-men. -
I ate this frog along with young fern-tops and
Some plantain shoots, by way of vegetables, and
THE SHENDUS. 229
found it by no means unpalatable. The Roaja
promised me a gecko-steak the next day, a gecko
being a large sort of lizard; but of this I said nothing
to Toby.
My cook’s proper patronymic was Tobé-dhun, but
I called him Toby for short, in English fashion. In
like manner my sergeant's name, Fyz-āllah Khan,
was abbreviated, first to Fyzullah, and finally to
Fuzlah.
In the afternoon the worthy Roaja came to pay
me a ceremonious visit, accompanied by certain elders
of his village, and for their delectation I at once pro-
duced a bottle of spirits of wine, which was duly
handed round, in improvised cups formed by cutting
off joints of a small bamboo, and was pronounced a
powerfully good liquor.
The drinking of spirits of wine possessed one ad-
vantage for me, that, being colourless, I was able to
help myself freely from a black bottle full of pure
water, and so drink fair with my guests and yet keep
my head clear.
It was of importance for me to propitiate this
Mrüng Roaja, as my next march lay across the hills,
the stream offering no further water-way. Now, in
order to cross the hills, it was necessary to have a
guide, and also to get eight or ten coolies to carry the
baggage. I therefore smoothed down the Roaja to
the utmost extent of my ability, discovering indeed,
finally, that he and I were actually related to each
other. It happened in this wise.
“Respected Roaja, may I inquire your name 2 ”
“My friendly name (may your journey be pros-
perous!) is Twekam Tongloyn.”
230 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
“This is most strange! Have any of your tribe
ever crossed the great black water?”
“No ; why does the Sahib ask this question ?”
“Because my name is the same as yours, and we
must, therefore, be of the same clan.”
Incredulity on the part of the Roaja; the elders
look puzzled. -
“What may be the friendly name of the Sahib 2"
With dignity. “My name is Urbut Tongloyn
(Herbert Tom Lewin).”
Sensation. We exchange pipes in token of the
bond between us. More spirits of wine.
This strange and wonderful coincidence gave rise
to a long ethnological discussion, in which Roaja
Twekam-Tom-Lewin favoured me with the following
piece of old-world history.
“God made the trees and the waters, the animals
and the creeping things first of all. He made them
very well, for he was a great artificer. In one thing
only he made a mistake, for in first moulding the
alligator he forgot the legs, and the result was a great
snake. Now this snake conceived it to be a grievous
wrong, in that he had been made without legs, and
he determined, therefore, to vex God as much as lay
in his power; so he lay in the jungle and watched.
Long and carefully he watched, until he saw that
God was about to complete his work by making a
man and a woman. He fashioned them from fine
clay from the river's bank; but it was a long and
difficult job, and the work could not be completed
within the space of one sun. So every night, when
God slept, the Snake crept forth from the jungle and
destroyed all the work which had been done during
THE SHENDUS. 231
the day. On the morrow, when God woke up, he
was very angry; but so it happened again, for God
must sleep, and whenever he did so, the snake acted
maliciously as before.
“God was now much puzzled. At last, after great
consideration, he determined to construct a guardian
who should watch while he slept ; and so he set to
work and made a dog, and at night when the Snake
came as before, to do evil, the dog barked and
frightened it away ; for God made the dog to sleep
with only one eye. So now God was able to com-
plete the man and the woman. He finished the man
first, and the woman, who was last made, narrowly
escaped destruction, for the dog was busy eating a
bone and only just barked in time. This is the reason
why the women are of a timid disposition to this day.
The snake, however, still keeps up its enmity, and it
is while God sleeps that men die ; the snake carries
them off, and although the dogs still bark and howl,
the Snake has got used to their noise, and is not
frightened any more.” “It is a pity,” added the
Roaja, naively, “that God sleeps so much ; for,
otherwise, we should live much longer.”
The next morning I paid my return visit to
Twekam Roaja in his village, where I was received
with all honour. A clean cane mat was spread for
me on the platform in front of the Roaja's house,
and here I was regaled with small cups of a spirit
which the villagers distilled themselves from rice.
After an interval I was conducted into the house,
where a rough but not unpalatable meal of burnt
pig and rice had been prepared by the Roaja's wife,
which she and her daughter served to me upon
232 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
small wooden platters, with plantain-leaves by way
of table-cloth. I noticed, in the privacy of family
life to which I was then admitted, the women laid
aside the breast-cloth usually worn, performing the
household work with only one small petticoat round
their loins.
After dinner we adjourned to the outer platform
once more, and the villagers entertained me with a
dance, which was performed on the smooth open
space in front of the Roaja's house. The music was
made by a kind of reed-band. Each performer held
a gourd, into which was fitted a long reed stopped
with one hole, and each player emitted his single
note when his turn came, as in the Russian horn-
bands. Little boys blew on the tenor reeds, while
full-grown men gave out the deeper notes, which
required more breath and power, the gourds acting
as reservoirs to contain the wind. At intervals a
low sonorous note was interpolated by a gong, the
whole uniting in a slow and plaintive but not inhar-
monious concert.
The dance was performed by young men only,
dressed up for the occasion, with feathers in their
hair, and holding spears and axes; the perform-
ance throughout was conducted with silent gravity,
and was of interminable length. The time was
marked by bending the knees in cadence. Oc-
casionally the dancers would pause and execute
small oscillatory movements, bending their bodies
from side to side, after which the solemn circling
recommenced. It was not a cheerful or hilarious
performance by any means. Smoking and con-
..versation went on unchecked among the spectators,
THE SHENDUS. 233
and once or twice small cups of spirit, and some
leaves of dried tobacco for smoking, were handed
round by the women. I noticed that some of the
small naked children who squatted round the circle
of dancers held lizards in leash as play-things, and
while we sat smoking on the platform, a tame
“bim-raj,” or king-crow, came fluttering from the
house and settled on the Roaja's head, Saluting him
with great affection. A kindly, natural people on
the whole, my intercourse with whom strengthened
my feelings of jubilation at having for a time
escaped from the plains and the dwellers therein. I
had no difficulty now in arranging with the Roaja
as to my starting next day. He offered to act as
guide himself, and promised the services of his
villagers to carry the baggage.
Accordingly, we set off the next morning, and
from early dawn until sundown we traversed un-
known distances, sometimes following a wild ele-
phant track along the ridge of a hill, at others
cutting a path through the close-growing stems of
bamboo jungle, or painfully pushing along through
acres of lofty grass, eight and ten feet high, giving
One a sensation as of a bewildered ant in a hay-
field.
Once we had to descend the perpendicular face
of a precipice, notching holes for our feet, and using
the long hanging creepers as guide-ropes. The
danger here was to those who went first, for my
Bengali policemen, being unused to this sort of
travel, and being, moreover, thoroughly uneasy and
frightened at the descent, moved so clumsily that
great stones were dislodged, and fell rattling down
234. A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
on the heads of the foregoers. Clinging like a
lizard to the cliff, one could not get out of the way;
so, when a stone ſell, there was nothing for it but
to duck one's head, hunch one's shoulders, and take
the blow as best could be. One thing was made
plain to me by that day's march—the Bengali
escort was useless, and I decided to send them back
to Chittagong as soon as an opportunity of doing so
presented itself.
I was very tired after my first real hill-march,
and, what with the fatigue, exposure, and unusual
diet combined, I felt rather feverish. Among all
my discomforts, I found consolation in the thought
that I had, at any rate, accomplished my desire.
There we were at last, far away from civilization,
on the banks of a new river, which the Roaja
informed me was the Rigray Khyoung, or, as the
Bengalis called it, the Sungă River, which flowed
to the sea through the territory of a potentate styled
the Bohmong. Now, as Roaja Twekam owed alle-
giance to this chief, he was somewhat uneasy in his
mind lest his having guided me across the hills
should be taken amiss. But, as the Bohmong was
a tributary of the British Government, I did not
anticipate that he could actively resent the Roaja's
action, or oppose my advance through his terri-
tory, although I learned that he viewed with
great disfavour the entry of any European into his
country.
One comfort was that, by crossing the hills on
foot as I had done, we struck the Sungă River a
couple of days’ journey above the Bohmong's resi-
dence, so that, before he could receive tidings of
THE SHENDUS. 235
my incursion, I hoped to be away and beyond his
jurisdiction.
On the 2nd of December 1865, I bade farewell to
my friendly namesake, the Roaja. I pledged him in
a loving-cup, and cheered his heart by promises of
support in the event of the Bohmong annoying him ;
and, animated by a reminder of our relationship, he
took his departure, with a yard of scarlet broad-cloth,
two pairs of bracelets, and two shillings for himself,
while a shilling each and a glass of spirits of wine
per head made his men equally happy.
Our camp was beautifully situated on a bend in
the higher waters of the Sungá. The river lay
spread out before us in a dark, mirror-like sheet,
streaked here and there by delicate silvery wind-
flaws, like lines of frost-work on the water. The
banks rose steeply with over-hanging rocks, plumy
with fern and bamboo, and backed by giant trees
festooned with creepers and orchids. From the turn
of the river below, the breeze bore to our ears the
roar of the water as it broke into foamy rapids.
My men dispersed themselves along the shore,
seeking to add to our scanty provender by tickling
fish under the stones, just like boys after trout in
England, producing, however, only ugly creatures
Something like eels, without scales, and of a mottled
brown and black colour, with white bellies.
The faithful Toby viewed this novel description of
fish with a mournful shake of the head, as who should
Say, “Alas! what evil fate brings such comestibles
to the pot of a well-ordered cook l’’
I sent Fuzlah with an interpreter to the nearest
Village down stream, to arrange for boats and obtain
236 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
information, while I smoked a reflective pipe, specu-
lating how soon we should get beyond British terri-
tory, and what manner of country and people I should
find behind the range of hills which lay to the
east. On thinking matters over I wished I had
brought with me a better assortment of presents:
money, I found, was of comparatively little value ;
but gaudy-coloured ear-rings, in shape of a trun-
cated cone to thrust through the lobe of the ear, were
the universal hill wear, and small hand-mirrors and
wooden cheroot-holders would be greatly prized.
However, one has always to buy one's experience.
I began to suspect that I had acted wisely in bring-
ing my violin. At the Mrüng village I had given
great satisfaction by joining in their concert, and I
promised myself the delight and admiration of future
music parties ; for, although my performance was
extremely elementary, the instrument was novel, and
much appreciated by the hill-folk. Fuzlah and the
interpreter returned after an hour, bringing with
them some canoes which they had hired at a Kümi
village below the rapids, at the reasonable rate of
two-pence per diem, and I practised for some time
how to sit balancing oneself in the stern of a dug-out,
and at the same time steer with the paddle.
Fuzlah reported that we had struck the Sungú too
high, and that it was now necessary for us to descend
the stream, a day's journey, to where a small tribu-
tary, the Ramakri Khyoung, entered the main river;
ascending this small stream we should find a hill
path which led across the water-parting to the river
Koladan, whose waters flow down to Akyab in the
Arrakan province of British Burmah.
THE SEIENDUS. 237
Next day, therefore, we started early, reaching
Ramakri Khyoung a little before sundown, after a
hard day's paddling, in which I took my share.
We had to shoot the rapids at the commencement of
the day's journey, and this experience was certainly
most vividly enjoyable—like a gallop on a fiery and
spirited horse.
The boat slipped quietly along at first through
the glassy stretches of the upper water, the speed
of the current gradually increasing until the water
seemed to crinkle longitudinally, and in front we
could hear a rushing, roaring sound, which increased
in volume as we sped along. The swift, strong
stream now became filled with threatening rocks,
breaking and fretting the river into creamy foam ;
not always, however, showing themselves on the
surface, but sometimes lying dangerously hidden
beneath the water, their presence only to be recog-
nised by the practised eye of the steersman, who tells
of the hidden danger by the colour and humpiness of
the water. Like a swift bird the canoe flies on, now
entering a narrow gorge filled with tumbling turbu-
lent billows, foam-crested, roaring, through which
winds a narrow yellow water-path ; one felt the
mad sweep of the current bearing us on irresistibly
to unforeseen events. The men paddled and yelled
like demons, and the steersman played his part
right manfully. With sudden swift turn of the
wrist he sends the boat twirling under the over-
hanging trees of the bank, where in a swift-running
side-eddy he avoids the thunderous swoop of mid-
river fury, then, calling on the paddler at the bow,
the canoe is headed out into the mad tumble of the
238 A FLY ON TEIE WHEEL.
final flurry. Bang! she jumps on the shoulder of a
dark hidden rock, plunging off again immediately
at an angle of nearly forty-five degrees, down an
inclined plane of water, and taking in a good prow
full, passes swiftly into the calm water below the
rapid. Here all give vent to their pent-up feelings
by screeches of victory; and we turn to watch the
progress of the boats which follow. •
It was a glorious time—a new sensation—the
poetry of motion; one flew, as it were, on bird's
wings amid the mighty rush and roar of the torrent;
each moment was a climax; and I should indeed
have felt proud had I been able to sit at the stern
and take her through ; nay, more, I determined that
some day I would make the venture. Mind and
body alike were aroused to the greatest activity,
accuracy of judgment and quick decision being
absolutely necessary, every moment bringing forth
fresh and unlooked for difficulties which had to be
met and surmounted at peril of one's life. The
excitement, while it lasted, was intense; and our
after gleeful gratulation proportionately keen.
The villagers from whom we had hired the canoes,
and who also furnished the steersmen, took up a
position of vantage on the bank, and watched the
“ashiang’” (master), as they called me, handle a
paddle for the first time, joining in the cheers as
each canoe successfully accomplished the passage.
I was more vexed than I can tell at my inability
to speak the tongue of these people. I had, it is true,
learned sufficient to give a few orders, but when it
came to a real palaver I had to trust to an inter-
preter ; and this was very galling to me. It was
THE SHENDUS. 239
detestable and unendurable to be, as it were, minus
ears and tongue, and I determined to mend the
situation as quickly as was humanly possible.
Before starting up the Ramakri Khyoung I
decided to send back my escort of Bengali constables,
who, I found, were quite useless for hill-travelling;
they grumbled at carrying even the smallest portion
of their own baggage ; they were acquainted neither
with the people nor the language ; and they had no
powers of endurance. I found them prostrated by
a slight attack of fever, or by any of the pains and
aches incidental on real hard work, and, moreover, in
case of actual danger, I firmly believed they would
run away. So I resolved to dispense with their
further attendance, and at the same time I took
advantage of their departure to communicate with
the Commissioner of Chittagong. I sent them back
by boat, entrusting to them a full report of all that I
had done and what I intended to do, as far as my
intentions could be formulated, or as far as I thought
expedient. I had left with me Sergeant Fuzlah,
true as steel, and the faithful Toby, who clave unto
me, although I offered him a passage back with the
escort. I also retained two Mugh interpreters from
Cox's Bazaar, whom I had hired for the journey.
We suffered many things on our march across the
hills from the Sungú to the Pee Khyoung, an
affluent of the Koladan River; sometimes we waded
knee-deep in water, sometimes myriads of leeches
feasted on our blood, making their way to the flesh
through the thickest and closest coverings; or we
pushed our way painfully through thickets of enor-
mous stinging-nettles, whose sting was proportionate
240 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
to their size; but still ever onwards, until we
reached a village on the other side of the water-
parting, and I drank at last of the water of another
country.
I halted here only for one night, as the inhabi-
tants were very timid, and the place so poor as
with difficulty to provide food for my small party.
The villagers seemed weighed down with mistrust
and suspicion of their kind ; they lived in constant
dread of attack by hostile neighbours, and with a
view to defence they had constructed a strange and
quite original stronghold in a lofty tree. Here, at a
height of perhaps sixty feet from the ground, in a
strong fork of the tree, they had built a bullet-
proof house, of thick rough-hewn logs, loop-holed in
the sides and floor, which might contain some twenty
people. Access to this fortalice was only to be
gained in Robinson Crusoe fashion, by a series of
ladders, which were afterwards drawn up. It was
houses such as this, I suppose, that gave rise to the
tales I had heard in Chittagong, of hill-tribes who,
like monkeys, lived habitually in trees.
On the 7th of December we safely reached
Dalakmay, a village on the Koladan, consisting of
about fifty houses inhabited by Arracanese British
subjects, and at that time the extreme frontier
village of Arracan. Here the ROaja, or head-man
of the village, was suspicious of my intentions, and
declined an interview. He furnished me, however,
with food, on payment considerably above value,
and, to ascertain what manner of man I was, sent
to interview me a Burmese doctor, by name Khilu,
who had a great local reputation for wisdom. I
THE SHENDU.S. 241
did my best to reassure the doctor, telling him
where I came from, and that my object was
merely to go up the river and see the country.
On his part, Mr. Khilu begged respectfully to
assure me, that if I did go up the river I should
never come down again, as my head would be
cut off and set on a pole by the Shendús, whom
he described as a predatory and powerful tribe
living beyond British limits, who feared neither
man nor devil, and who, by perpetual forays to
obtain slaves, kept the whole frontier in perpetual
terror. To this I smiled and responded nothing, save
to beg the good offices of Khilu in getting a boat.
At Dalakmay also I found strongholds prepared,
in which the inhabitants could find shelter in the
event of an attack by the dreaded Shendús; these
refuges, however, were of a different fashion from
the tree-fort of the Pee Khyoung. Broad rafts
were made by tying large bundles of bamboos
together, and on this basement, comfortable houses
of mat were built, so that in troublous times they
had merely to push off into the stream, which
here ran broad and deep, and they were secure
from their enemies; for the Shendās, being moun-
tain men, could neither swim nor manage a boat.
I learned that not far from Dalakmay was a
range of hills called Kyouk-pandong, the summit
of which formed a large level plateau, where existed
the ruins of a large city, relics of some bygone
dynasty. Dr. Khilu assured me that he had
himself seen the ruins of temples there, sur.
rounded by fruit-trees such as only grow near the
habitations of men; but, he added, “No one lives
16
242 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
there now, Save the ogres (rakas) and spirits of
the woods (nats). The great king lived there
longer than long ago.” -
The plateau was said to be ten or twelve miles
long, and was situated at an altitude of four thou-
sand feet. What an admirable site for a European
sanatorium ! This, however, was no district of
mine, and I had no leisure for archaeological research.
My object was to reach the Blue Mountain, marked
as such on the Government maps, in a territory
described as “unsurveyed and unknown,” but
inhabited by a race called Shendús.
The worthy villagers of Dalakmay, perceiving
my anxiety to get on, naturally made an oppor-
tunity of my necessity, fleecing me handsomely for
food and boat-hire before I was permitted to de-
part. At length, after much diplomacy, it was
arranged that Khilu the Wise should convoy me
up stream to the village of Yuong, a Kûmi chief
of influence, after which it was expressly covenanted
that my blood was to be on my own head, and
that no blame was to attach to the village of
Dalakmay or its head-man, no matter how untoward
my fate.
The appearance of Dr. Khilu, as he entered my
boat the morning of our departure to afford me
support and guidance, was truly imposing. Clad
in a skirted vest of black satin, with a waist-cloth
of dark purple silk, shot with black, his grizzled
top-knot encircled by a rope of the finest white
muslin, he presented a striking contrast to my
own weather-beaten and travel-stained appearance.
From his neck depended a silver chain, from which
THE SHENDUS. 243
hung tweezers and other toilet implements, while
under his arm he bore a straight Burmese sword
richly ornamented, and so we set forth together
in a dug-out, with much majesty.
As we rowed along he entertained me with
various short ensamples of his professional skill.
For instance, he had extracted from the stomach of
one man the skin of a buffalo, which had caused
great suffering, and must eventually have caused
the death of the patient. I asked how it got there,
and was gravely assured that an opposition “medi-
cine man’” had caused its entry with evil intent.
“My wisdom, however, was superior to his,”
Dr. Khilu remarked with self-complacency. “I
quickly procured its ejection. I have, indeed, fre-
quently extracted even worms from the brain.”
He knew very little, I found, beyond his charms
and incantations, or at any rate would communicate
nothing of importance; he may perhaps have had
some knowledge of simples, and certainly possessed
a good modicum of assurance and native cunning.
We reached Yuong's village at midday, and
were well received by him. I shortly stated my
wishes, and he, on his side, requested that I would
remain a day or so at his village, in order that
the omens might be consulted. To this I readily
consented, as the place and the people were alike
a new book for me, and intensely interesting.
Yuong belonged to the Kāmi tribe. The tribal
name, Kāmi, is derived from “Kū,” a hand, and
“mi,” a man; meaning, probably, the handy men—
men neat and adroit with their hands, not to say
light-fingered. But this name of Kûmi has been
16 #
244 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
transmogrified by the Arracanese (who speak an
old form of Burmese, probably the orginal form)
into Khwá-mi, i.e. “dog-men,” in allusion to the
tribal custom of wearing a narrow breech-cloth,
worn round the waist and tucked between the legs,
leaving a long pendant queue like a dog's tail; or
it might also have had reference to the habit of
eating dog, which is prevalent among them. I
questioned my host Yuong as to the flavour of
dog, and he pronounced it a most delicate dish.
“The dog,” he said, “must be young and of one
colour, if possible black; parti-coloured dogs are
tough, as a rule. The animal should be taken for
killing when just weaned from the mother, then
nourish him well for a fortnight on rice and butter,
and he will be in prime condition. On the day
of the feast let him eat as much boiled rice and
curd as he is able, and, as he swallows the last
mouthful, kill him cleverly by a blow with a club
behind the ears; the rice he has newly eaten forms
an admirable stuffing.”
Yuong much desired to prepare for me a mess of
dog after the foregoing fashion; but although I
affected omnivorousness, and lectured Toby roundly
upon his lack of adventure in regard to new viands,
yet one must draw the line somewhere, and I drew
it at dog. The village of Yuong was situated on
the banks of the Koladan, the houses all being
built of bamboo and thatched with palm-leaf. The
floor of the chief's house was raised some eight feet
from the ground, having an open gallery or verandah
in front, facing the river. Trophies of deer's horns
hung on the main posts, and some dark blue home-
THE SHENDUS. 245
spun cloth, in process of manufacture, was fixed in a
small hand-loom at the end of the verandah. The
woman who had been weaving stepped aside to give
me passage as I went up the ladder; water was
wanted in the house, and she was going to fetch it
from the river, carrying on her back, suspended by
a grass band over her forehead, a large cane basket,
containing six enormous bamboo tubes, which served
as water-pails. Another woman, just at the door,
was washing some brass plates, while underneath the
platform, on the ground below, the pigs grumphed
and disputed for the scraps of food which fell, with
the dirty water, through the open-work of the
bamboo flooring.
On entering the house I was conducted to a seat
of honour, on a mat at the further end of the apart-
ment, and some rice-spirit was produced, the Burmese
name of which was “arak,” from which comes the
English arrack and the old rack-punch of the time of
the Regency. The house consisted of one great hall
or common room, with the chief's sleeping-place,
raised bed-fashion, in a warm corner near the fire.
The hearths, of which there were two, one at either
end of the big hall, were made of earth trodden
down into a square frame of rough logs; over the
furthest hearth, by an iron hook, hung a mighty
Crock, in which something was simmering ; it might,
I thought, be—dog
The walls were of bamboo matting set double,
With a space of four inches between the inner and
Outer wall, giving coolness in summer and warmth
in winter. Over the hearth by the chief's sleeping-
place, was suspended a large trophy of horns and
246 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
skulls. I looked to see if among them were any
human skulls; but there were only spoils of the
chase—horns of guyal, bison and deer, skulls of
bear and wild boar. In the corner, by the bed's
head, stood two old flint muskets and a sheaf of
spears. Yuong was at first somewhat reserved ;
but, after hearing all I had to say, he consented to
send me on my way as far as the village of Teynwey,
the chief of the Kyaws, who, he said, was on friendly
terms with many Shendā chiefs, and could, if he
chose, assist me materially. He, Yuong, knew
nothing of the Shendús. I found afterwards that
this last statement was untrue.
After arranging with Yuong I returned to my
boat at the water's edge to sleep ; but, before retir-
ing for the night, I smoked a pipe with Khilu, who
favoured me with more curious information as to
his medical practice. The Kūmis, he said, were an
ignorant and barbarous people, unacquainted with
the first principles of healing, and their medicine
men quite unable to deal with devils or any of the
higher branches of the art. To sores or wounds they
applied poultices of pounded rice or warm earth ;
for headaches the temples of the sufferer were cau-
terised with a red-hot knife, or bitten until the blood
flowed; while for colic or indigestion their remedy
was abstinence from food, and the application of a
hot “dao" (a broad knife) over a wet cloth to the
ailing part.
“All cases of epidemic disease,” said Dr. Khilu,
“as your honour doubtless knows, are demoniacal;
and for these the Kūmis' only remedy is flight.
They abandon their sick to die in the villages, and
THE SHENDUS. 247
take to the hills, camping out and changing their
locality day by day. Should a neighbouring village
be attacked, it is placed in rigorous quarantine, no
intercourse between its inhabitants and the outer
world being allowed, on pain of death. The unin-
fected villages are thoroughly purified. This,” con-
tinued Khilu, “has been taught them by me.”
Lying old man the custom of quarantine has
existed for ages among all hill races.
“Yes. It is effected by an exorcism of a powerful
nature. A monkey is caught, and killed at the
entrance to the village by dashing it on the ground,
so as to avoid spilling its blood. The threshold of
each house is then swept with the dead monkey's
tail, after which some of its blood, mingled with dust,
is smeared on the lintel of each door. This is gene-
rally effective.” -
On the 14th of December I reached the village of
the Kyaw chief Teynwey. This village was strongly
fortified, being in close proximity to the Shendü
country, a sort of terrain neutre, the fusing point,
as it were, between our tribes and the independent
clans. The news of my coming had preceded me ;
for Teynwey himself, with a numerous following,
came to the river's bank to receive me on landing.
Teynway was an elderly man, perhaps sixty years
old; he was attired in the peculiar fine home-spun
plaid cloth which is manufactured only by the
Shendā women, and is specially reserved for the
apparel of chiefs. In the turban which was twisted
round his grey top-knot he wore an aigrette, or
plume, of the fine long-shafted tail-feathers of the
“bim-raj,” or king-crow. Both his dress and
248 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
physiognomy bespoke him of different race to Yuong,
although I found there were many Kümis perma-
nently domiciled in the Kyaw village.
I was received with much apparent kindliness, and
Teynwey conducted me with some formality up to
his village, where a separate house was assigned for
me and my followers.
This village I found especially interesting, being
the first really fortified place I had met with in
my hill travels. It contained fifty-four houses,
and was situated on the top of a hill about five
hundred feet high, looking down on the river,
which flowed below in a narrow and somewhat
rocky channel. The place was unapproachable on
three sides, owing to the steepness of the hill
scarp, and was besides surrounded by a strong
stockade of unhewn logs, having a frieze or topping
of bamboo spikes some feet in length; round the
stockade, at intervals, were look-out places and
stations for firing. The sole entrance was by a stepp
winding path leading to triple doors of strong he'vn
timber plank three inches thick. It was altogether
a formidable defensive position, the only weak point
being, that the houses, built of bamboo thatched
with palm-leaves, could easily be set on fire by
rockets or fire-tipped arrows. I soon ensconced
myself in my temporary abode, to the door of which
Teynwey himself conducted me, there taking his
leave. I was evidently regarded with much curi-
osity, a European being, I found, an unknown
animal in those parts.
Yuong brought to see me a Shendā chief, the head
of a small village community in the vicinity, and I
THE SHENDUS. 249
need hardly say that I regarded him with the
keenest interest, as being the first man I had seen of
the nation I had struggled so many days to arrive
at. He was accompanied by four Shendú women,
and could speak no language save his own. He
wore the distinctive Shendii head-dress, the turban
being wound into a lofty horn-like projection over
the forehead. I inquired the origin of this singular
head-dress, and was informed as follows:
“In the ancient days, in times of old, the squirrel
and the horned owl had a dispute, and the squirrel
lost his temper and bit the owl on the head, so that
he became all bloody and assumed a frightful aspect.
The squirrel became so terrified at this that he fled
for his life, and the owl devoured all the young
squirrels. Now one of our chiefs observed this inci-
dent, and pondered thereon; then came to him God's
messenger, the tiger, and told him that what he had
seen was an instruction. So since that time the
Shendti tribes wear their hair high on the forehead,
like the horns of the owl; and when they go to war
they bind scarlet cloth on their turbans, so that, like
the owl, they may take heads.”
The Shendú women were quite different in
appearance to those of other tribes. The hill women
I had hitherto seen were remarkable for the scanti-
ness of their clothing, it being rare to see a skirt
lower than the knee; but these Shendú women
Covered their bosoms with a decent chemise and
Wore long petticoats of clean home-spun, while over
their shoulders hung handsome robes of the Shendú
plaid. Their hair, also, was neatly done in bands on
either side of the face, and knotted behind. Alto-
250 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
gether the impression left on my mind was that
they were a higher race than the ordinary hill people.
Their features, I especially noted, were not of the
pronounced Mongolian type that characterised all
other hill races that I had seen ; these Shendā
women, indeed, as far as features went, might have
been Portuguese half-castes from Chittagong.
I presented the chief's wife with a friendly offering,
in the shape of some gay-coloured beads and a small
pocket mirror. She accepted my present with a
gracious smile, and returned the civility by drawing
from her breast a small gourd, which she solemnly
handed to me. I inquired what was to be done
with this; was I to keep it P. Yuong explained
that this was an act of great favour; the gourd con-
tained the lees, or tobacco-water, from the bottom
of the small hookah which each woman smoked, and
this water was considered a great preservative of the
teeth and gums. It was expected that I should take
some of the filthy stuff into my mouth, and retain
the same for some time, returning the gourd to its
owner with due acknowledgments. Truly, a most
unpleasant custom. It was my ardent wish, how-
ever, to reach the Shendú country, and I could
not, therefore, stick at trifles; so, with inward
loathings and a smiling face, I conformed to the
requirements of politeness.
On handing the old Shendā a cup of spirits,
he would not be persuaded to touch it until the
women who accompanied him had first partaken,
and they also required polite pressing before they
would taste the liquor. These were all small signs,
but still I noted them as not unimportant indices
THE SHENDUS. 251
of the character and status of the people whose
acquaintance I sought. There was to be a grand
feast and solemn council in the evening, when I
was expected to set forth the objects of my journey,
and when the future action of Teynwey would be
decided. At about 8 P.M., therefore, I adjourned
to the chief's house. I had not far to go, as the
small house which had been assigned for my re-
ception was in close proximity to Teynwey's pre-
mises. The feast I found had already commenced,
with its usual concomitants of dancing and drinking.
The music was rude but forcible; there were any
number of drums, and an instrument resembling
a guitar, which was thrummed with a sort of “plec-
trum ” of bamboo, fastened to the thumb of the
player. The instrument had frets, so that there
was some attempt to produce tune, but rhythm was
of course the great feature of the music.
The dance was performed by men only, about
twenty in number, who marched slowly round in
a circle in measured processional time. The leader
held in his hand a brazen-hilted “dao,” adorned
with a flowing tuft of goat's hair dyed scarlet; the
other dancers also bore weapons of various descrip-
tions. The dance thus proceeded : one step, a
pause; two more steps, all the dancers sank down
on their hams, rising again in time to the music ;
another step, then cut a caper, and so on, da capo.
At the urgent request of Teynwey, who had been
informed of my eminent musical ability, I put in
an ad libitum accompaniment with voice and fiddle.
After a short time passed thus, Teynwey led me
to an adjoining room, where the solemn business
252 A FIY ON THE WHEEL.
of drinking was being accomplished. Here was a
double row of enormous earthen pots filled with
“khoung” a sort of sweet, slightly-intoxicating
beer, made from millet-seed, which is the universal
beverage on all festive occasions in the hills.
Beside each pot sat a drinker, who imbibed the
fluid through a reed as we should take sherry
cobbler. Here, on a fine mat spread near an open
window, we seated ourselves, pipes were lit and
the palaver commenced. During the afternoon it
appeared that sundry experiments in divination
had been tried, by the inspection of the entrails
of the animals killed for the feast, and by the
breaking of eggs, at which Dr. Khilu had assisted
on my behalf, and the omens were reported to be
very favourable.
Teynwey therefore informed me that he would
assist me to the utmost of his power, and it was
arranged that, after due sacrifice to the spirits and
solemn oath of friendship and alliance between
me and the Kyaws had been made, an embassy
should be despatched to Kheynūng, the nearest
Shendú chief of importance, asking him to come
and escort me to his village. I tried hard to
induce Teynwey to allow me to accompany the
embassy to Kheynäng, without further delay; but
this, he assured me, was impracticable, as my entry
into the Shendú country without permission would
be deemed an act of hostility. At any rate, nor
guide nor coolies would be forthcoming, so I had
no choice but to await the course of events.
That night I got no rest, for the village was the
head-quarters of biting creatures, who made night
THE SHENDUS. 253
hideous; so early the next morning I beat a
hurried retreat to the river's bank, where the vil-
lagers speedily ran up a small bamboo hut for me,
and another for my followers.
In the afternoon Teynwey, Yuong, and a num-
ber of other persons of consideration, came down
from the village to the river-side where I now dwelt,
and together we swore a solemn oath of friendship.
The ceremony was performed in this wise. A young
“guyal” heifer was thrown down, and its neck
firmly fastened to a stake which was firmly driven
into the ground, the two ends of the cord by which
the animal was bound were held, one by me and
the other by Teynwey and his followers. The Kámi
chief Yuong, who was a clever man and cunning
in divination, officiated as high-priest, keenly and
critically watched by the opposition practitioner
Dr. Khilu.
Yuong took in one hand the brazen-hilted “dao’’
decorated with scarlet goat's hair, and in the other
held a brass cup containing arrack. From the
cup he took a mouthful of liquor and blew it out
in spray over the sacrifice, then another mouthful
over me, and a third over Teynwey and his com-
pany; then raising high his right hand he invoked
the spirits of the air and water, at the same time
plucking out some of the prostrate animal's hair
and scattering it to the wind. After these pre-
liminaries, with two or three vigorous strokes of
the “dao" he severed the animal's head from its
body, and, taking some of the warm blood on his
forefinger, smeared it on my forehead and on my
bare feet, as also to Teynwey and the others who
254 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
had taken part in the sacrifice, invoking at the
same time the wrath of the spirits on the head
of him who should be untrue or unfaithful in the
affair to which we had set our hands.
The slaughtered animal was quickly skinned,
dismembered, and its flesh divided among the par-
ticipants, to be cooked and eaten at their pleasure.
Not content with this, Teynwey cut up the liver
into small pieces, and each one of us had perforce
to eat a bit—raw. This being done I retreated
to my shanty, and took a sip of brandy, the
raw flesh having nauseated me, and then sat down
to solace myself with a little music on the fiddle.
The messengers to Kheynūng were to depart
that same day; but still, make what despatch they
would, I found I should have to wait a fortnight
at least for their return. Accordingly, I resigned
myself to the inevitable delay, and made up my
mind, meanwhile, to explore the country in the
vicinity. I took sweet counsel with my fiddle,
and decided that, so long as I eventually obtained
access to the Shendú country, the fortnight's in-
action, although irksome and tedious, was not of
any real consequence. Teynwey and his people
seemed simple and sincere, while the solemn func-
tion just gone through was, I thought, a guarantee of
the chief's good faith. Thus I mused as I bowed
arpeggios on the violin, singing “The blue hills'
secret shall yet, shall yet be mine,” when suddenly
I received a blow which knocked me into the air,
and I fell over on my side in a sickening agony
of pain.
I had been sitting cross-legged on a shawl, with
THE SHENDUS. 255
my back turned to the low door of the hut, occupied
with my fiddling, when a bullet entered, and
striking me a little below the hip, passed down
the whole length of my thigh, coming out just
above the knee. The gun had been fired by one
of the hill-guides who had brought me across the
hills to the Koladan, and who instantly decamped
into the jungle. Whether the shot was accidental,
or whether the chiefs had determined to prevent
my going any farther, is doubtful. My servant
Toby saw the man strolling by the door of my
hut, and stooping down to look in, but merely
thought he was attracted by the music ; then the
report of the gun was heard, and the man bolted.
I was in great pain, and thought my last hour
had come. Fuzlah and Toby hurried up lamenting,
and with some assistance carried me down to
Yuong's boat, which lay moored at the water's
edge, and having procured rowers by offers of
liberal payment, the canoe was soon bearing me
rapidly down the river on the way to Akyab. I
confess I thought I had not an hour to live, for
I had seen the wound, and it seemed to me im-
possible that the ball could have traversed the whole
length of my thigh without severing some artery,
in which case I must inevitably bleed to death.
I remember vividly how I lay at the bottom of
the small dug-out canoe, in a pool of my own fast-
flowing blood, filled with bitter anger at such an
unforeseen and impotent termination to my journey.
It was very hard, I thought, to die thus; and so
all things slipped away and I became unconscious,
I suppose, from loss of blood,
256 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
When I again opened my eyes, I cannot tell how
long after, I was much astonished to find myself still
in the flesh. I was very weak, and the atrocious
pain in my leg reminded me of what had happened;
but the bleeding had stopped, and the disappoint-
ment in my heart was the worst pain of the two.
It seemed so ignominious to be beaten in this way.
However, there was no help for it, and I lay, still
uncertain of my life, with the good Toby weeping at
my head, and Sergeant Fuzlah, forward in the boat,
urging the rowers to greater exertion. I know not
how the time passed, it seemed all a tangled, feverish
dream; but I know that three days had somehow
elapsed, when I heard a friendly English voice hailing
my canoe, and Fuzlah responding. It turned out
to be Major M , the Superintendent of Police at
Akyab, who was out on duty on the lower reaches
of the river Koladan, and who learned, with infinite
surprise, that a wounded and unknown fellow-
countryman was in the small boat coming from the
head-waters of the river.
I had eaten nothing for three days, save a little
rice, and I was very weak, and unable to explain my
appearance ; but I began now to hope that I might
live, taking comfort from the mere sight of an English
face, and the sound of an English voice. In a few
hours we reached Akyab, where I was lifted out
of the boat, and carefully and kindly conveyed to
Major M 's house. Here the doctor came, and
put me to infinite torture by probing my wound ;
he shook his head and pronounced my escape to be
wonderful. No bones, it appeared, had been broken,
and the small arteries, which had been cut by the
THE SEIENDUS. - 257
passage of the bullet, had staunched themselves by
contracting during the time I had lain still in the
canoe. He said that a more lengthy flesh-wound
was seldom seen ; probed me again; considered it
remarkable that the knee had escaped fracture ;
pointed out to Major M-- how the track of the
ball had followed certain anatomical conditions
existing in the limb ; and then bade me be of good
cheer, as the case was most interesting, and in a
few days I should have strong food.
And so it passed. I got well with astonishing
rapidity, becoming endowed with an appetite of
superhuman voracity, and in a short time could
hobble, or rather hop, about on one leg, well on the
Way to convalescence. -
Meanwhile, Sir Arthur Phayre, Chief Commis-
sioner and Father of the Province, arrived at Akyab
on a tour of inspection, and, having listened to my
story with kindly interest, asked whether I felt
inclined to renew the attempt to gain admission to
the Shendú country. It is needless to say that I
jumped at the opportunity, and it was speedily
arranged that I and Major M should go forth
together, and make another effort to explore the
unknown country. This time we were to move
under the aegis of Government ; that is to say, my
previous proceedings were duly reported to the
Government of Bengal, and on the recommendation
of Sir Arthur Phayre, the sanction of the Lieutenant-
Governor was accorded to this fresh attempt. I also
received demi-official letters from my friend the
Commissioner of Chittagong, who said very kind and
flattering things in respect of my doings, and urged
17
258 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
me on to fresh exertion. The new expedition, there-
fore, set forth under the most favourable auspices.
I had been wounded on the 15th of December, 1865,
and reached Akyab at midday on the 20th; on the
5th of January 1866, although my wound was still
open, and my leg somewhat stiff, I had yet suffi-
ciently recovered to make a fresh start.
Sir Arthur Phayre, who took a great interest in
the expedition, himself accompanied us for the first
two hundred miles, and we reached Dalakmay on
the 12th of January. Here he bade us farewell,
and Major M-- and I continued our journey
towards the Shendii country. The Chief Commis-
sioner entirely concurred in my view, that the
injury inflicted on me had been accidental, or at any
rate that Teynwey and his people had no part in it;
treachery, if treachery there were, came from the
Bohmong, the Chittagong potentate, whose subject
the man was who had fired the shot. Our present
expedition, therefore, was entirely a friendly one,
and we took with us only a very small escort.
By the 18th of January we reached once more
the village of Teynwey, whence I had not long
before taken so hurried a departure. The old chief
received me with astonishment, stroking and feeling
my body with much solicitude, being clearly of
opinion that, if I was not dead, I ought to be. My
wound, in truth, had healed with wonderful rapidity;
and this speedy convalescence was attributable
mainly to the simple abstinent life which I had led
for so many weeks previous to the accident. No
bread, no beer, no butter, no flesh save an occasional
chicken; a dish of rice, and sometimes fish, with
THE SHENDUS. 259
constant exercise in the open air, was evidently
uninflammatory diet; but still I felt deeply thankful
that matters had turned out so fortunately, and that
there I was once more at Teynwey's, sitting with
Major M--, discussing the chances pro and con
of our journey, as we smoked a pipe together after
a frugal meal of eggs and rice.
The river flowed below, dark green, with eddying
ripples, and beyond rose the hills, tier upon tier,
thickly clothed with jungle. The small dug-out
canoes in which we had travelled up stream lay
moored on the sandy shore, and there was the faith-
ful Toby searching in the stern of the boat which he
had occupied, to find a pod or two of red pepper
wherewith to flavour his dinner-pot.
We found at Teynwey's that my messengers had
returned from the Shendú country, bringing with
them the son of the chief Kheynūng, by name
Aylong, who had been sent by his father to inter-
view me, in response to my previous friendly
messages. After considerable haggling with Aylong
as to the number of red cloths, brass vessels, and
strings of beads which should be paid to Kheynāng
by way of “footing,” on our part, all was at length
satisfactorily arranged, and the indispensable final
ceremony of the Oath was gone through, in which
Major M-- joined. The following morning we
resumed our onward journey, bound for the village
of Kheynūng, a Shendú chief who ruled over a
village containing, perhaps, a hundred houses, and
through whose mediation we hoped to proceed still
farther on our voyage of discovery.
A curious trait now became noticeable in the
17 º'
260 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Shendā character. The men, six in number, who
composed Aylong's party, evinced a horror of water;
not only did they avoid ablution, and drink as little
as possible of the element, but no amount of persua-
sion would induce them to set foot in a boat. Major
M—— and I therefore went by water in our canoes,
while the Shendüs plunged into the apparently
pathless jungle, to reappear, however, towards sun-
down, at our first camping-ground, many miles up
the river.
I became great friends with the young chief
Aylong and his friend and henchman Yitchee ; they
were never weary of examining me and my belong-
ings; my clothes, my writing materials, my pipe, my
arms, and my general comportment, were all subjects
of the closest interest and observation to them.
The difference in the colour of our respective skins
seemed much to exercise their minds. Aylong would
take my hand and nurse it, stroking it and saying,
Apah, apah-floh, “It is good, it is fair; ” or would
pass the rough and sun-burned article to Yitchee,
who in his turn would examine it with much
curiosity. We were evidently the first white men
they had seen.
My tobacco being exhausted, Aylong gave me
some from his own pouch. This was a most welcome
gift, tobacco being pretty much the same all the world
OWeI’.
Our first day's journey lay up the Koladan River,
until we reached the Sulla Khyoung, a smaller
stream, which ran into the big river from the east.
We ascended this tributary for some distance, until
sundown, when we camped at a place where the
THE SHENDUS. 261
Shendās told us we should have to leave the boats
and commence to march by land. Our coolies, men
from Teynwey's village, quickly ran up rough shelter
huts of split bamboo and plantain leaves for them-
selves, while Major M-- and I slept in our canoes.
The following morning early, we hauled up the
boats and concealed them in the underwood by the
side of the stream, which was here somewhat deep,
to avoid their being stolen or meddled with by other
wayfarers, and by sunrise we set out on our journey.
The forest through which we took our way was
dark and gloomy, the trees were very lofty, with com-
paratively little undergrowth. There was no living
thing to be seen, not even a bird or a monkey; no
Sound broke the deep melancholy stillness of the
woodland, save occasionally the far-off note of the
bell-bird, a chime like that of a deep sweet bell in
the recesses of the forest, or the heavy thud of some
large acorn-like fruit tumbling to the ground. -
The party was headed by Yitchee, who led us
through the apparently pathless labyrinth of the
forest with undeviating accuracy; it seemed almost as
if he moved by instinct, and yet now and again some
mark or other slight indication would show that he
was pursuing a predetermined path. His guidance
must have been rendered more difficult by the fre-
quent wild elephant tracks which meandered every-
where through the forest, and, judging by the marks
and droppings, these animals must have been very
Ill!IOleI’OUIS,
We marched perhaps fifteen miles in a north-
easterly direction, as far as I could judge by the sun,
and by the moss, which always grows thickest on the
262 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
north side of the trees, and then we halted, camping
in the forest for the night. The next morning the
march was resumed. Hour after hour we tramped
along, now in sun, now in shade, until, about two
in the afternoon, we suddenly espied three strange
Shendās coming from the opposite direction ; one
of these carried a spear, while the other two men
were armed with flint-lock muskets bearing the
English Tower-mark. They also carried powder-
horns made from the horns of the guyal or hill bison,
beautifully inlaid, and ornamented with silver and
ivory. These strangers halted, and entered into
conversation with Aylong, inquiring who we were
and whither we were going. They were informed
that we were bound on a friendly visit to the village
of the chief Kheynūng, Aylong's father ; and they,
on their side, gave us to understand that they were
the Scouts or advance guard of a large party of
Shendtis, under another chief, and that we could
not be allowed to proceed without his orders.
This unforeseen incident occasioned much parley-
ing, until at last it was arranged that Aylong, with
two of his men, should go forward to the hostile
chief, and if possible come to terms with him. On
this our hill coolies began to chatter and put down
their loads, being evidently uneasy in their minds.
After a short interval Yitchee, Aylong's henchman,
returned, and told us that the advancing party num-
bered some four hundred men, and that, as ill-luck
would have it, they were out on the war-path ; he
thought there might be difficulties, and being himself
unarmed, he asked me to lend him a weapon of some
sort. I accordingly handed him my silver-hilted
THE SHENDUS. 263
sword, a relic of the Indian Mutiny, retaining for my
own protection a Ghurkha hunting-knife and a
revolver. I never saw my sword again for the space
of two years, when it was faithfully returned by
Yitchee through the Akyab authorities.
Old Teynwey himself, who had accompanied us,
seemed somewhat alarmed, and, pulling me by the
sleeve, made signs that we had better retreat. On
looking back, I saw that the coolies had taken up
their loads again, and were running off as fast as
they could in the direction we had lately come.
Having come thus far, Major M and I could
not make up our minds to go back again without
good reason, and we signified as much to Teynwey.
Presently we heard the Shendús calling for Aylong
in the jungle—so he apparently had fled!
At this juncture Yitchee cautiously approached,
and invited me by signs to accompany him into the
jungle, and on my shaking my head and pointing to
my companions, he leaped quickly away and disap-
peared in the forest.
Old Teynwey, who stuck by us to the last very
manfully, now entered into earnest expostulation
with the strangers; he spoke quickly and with vehe-
mence, and once he took the hand of one who seemed
to be the leader, and lifted it to his forehead with a
motion of entreaty. The strangers, however, pre-
served a grim and taciturn demeanour, eyeing us
fixedly, and replying to Teynwey only in mono-
syllables. After a little while Teynwey ceased
entreating, and without another word turned and
quietly retreated after his coolies, who had long
ago disappeared on the back-track, carrying with
264 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
them all our possessions—food, raiment, ammunition,
presents, &c. - -
Matters now began to look really unpleasant.
Here we were, alone in an unknown forest, confronted
by five unfriendly strangers, who had at their backs,
in the dim recesses of the forest, four hundred more
of the same kidney. We were six in number: there
were Major M-- and myself, M--'s two orderlies,
and Sergeant Fuzlah, all well armed, and the faithful
Toby, my cook, who valiantly carried in his right
hand a large toasting-fork.
We now began to see men moving in the jungles
round us, and four of the Shendús went quietly
behind a tree, where the observant Sergeant Fuzlah
followed them, and reported that they had primed
their guns from the long powder-horns they wore at
their waists. -
Major M-- and I consulted together hurriedly;
we were alone, without an interpreter, and conse-
quently without any means of communicating with
these people and explaining to them the friendliness
of our intentions or the enormity of their conduct.
Their object was evidently to capture us, alive if
possible, dead if it must be, but in any case to
plunder us of all we had ; and yet it seemed almost
impossible to give up our enterprise when we were
on the very threshold of success. It was heart-
breaking.
As we were thus conversing, I saw one of the
Shendús from behind a tree deliberately raise his
piece and cover my companion M--. Sergeant
Fuzlah, with admirable promptitude, raised his rifle
and covered that particular Shendii, who thereupon
THE SHENDUS. 265
lowered his gun, and scratched his head in an attitude
of embarrassment. At the same time a hideous old
grey-bearded Shendá, who, with smiles and gestures
(reminding one of the old nursery rhyme respecting
Mrs. Bond and her ducks, “Dilly, dilly, dilly, come
and be killed ”), had been inspecting the rifle of one
of M–—'s orderlies, with a quick jerk attempted to
wrest it away. There was no longer the faintest
doubt as to their intentions, and I said to my friend
M——, “Fate is against us, my boy. We shall be
surrounded and disarmed if we stay here much
longer.”
M— gave the order to make ready, and with
levelled guns, but without firing, we slowly retreated.
Seeing our threatening attitude, the Shendús at once
took cover, and whether it was that they feared to
expose themselves, or whether they had orders to take
us alive, I know not, but no shot was fired. We, on
our side, had no desire to commence hostilities or to
Waste our ammunition, so we slowly retired, presenting
a firm front with levelled guns.
“Sahib,” said Fuzlah, “they are outflanking us.”
And so it was, for on our right and left we saw
through the trees the figures of Shendús swiftly
running.
A little further on, the jungle grew more dense,
and we availed ourself of this cover to run also, as
fast as we could. I soon found, however, that my
leg pained me a good deal, and I began to doubt my
powers of continued flight.
Yet a little further, and we came to the baskets
containing our baggage, which had been abandoned
by the coolies in their flight. There, alas! I saw on
266 A FLY ON THE wheel.
the ground my cherished meerschaum, my beloved
fiddle, and my diary full of sketches and notes of
travel. Alack, alack! no time had we to stay, but
the provident Fuzlah stooped as we passed and
carried off my long “choga,” or dressing-gown,
which lay along the ground.
A short distance further, and the sound of shots
reached our ears in front. Our enemies had over-run
us in their eagerness and were attacking the coolies,
content, I suppose, with the certainty of taking us
afterwards. We held a hurried council of war. Per-
sonally, I was obliged to confess that I could go no
farther, as my leg began to feel like lead and was
very painful; accordingly, we turned off sharp to
the right, and within a hundred yards we found a
hollow surrounded and covered with dense under-
growth. Into this we all crept, crouching like hunted
beasts, with the determination at least to sell our
lives as dearly as possible.
Major M-- had throughout the journey been
accompanied by a small pet dog belonging to his wife,
who was away in England, and this small animal
now proved a source of great danger. Dropping shots
were heard occasionally, in the distance, but else all
was silent, and we began to hope that we had been
overlooked, when suddenly the sound of voices was
heard in the wood ; the Shendās were calling to each
other, and evidently searching for us. We looked at
one another, and preserved a deathly silence. I could
hear my own heart beating. One felt that in a few
moments the end, whether by lead or cold steel,
would arrive.
There was a rustling in the bushes above us, and
THE SHENDUS. 267
we grasped our weapons. M ’s cursed little dog
gave a low growl. I had my knife out at once to cut
her throat, but M--, who was very soft about the
little beast, huddled her up into the breast of his coat
and silenced her there. By the mercy of God we
were not discovered ; the searchers passed on, the
shots ceased, the shouting died away, and as the day
darkened to its close a mighty forest stillness fell
on all. Slowly, like a great peace, night came on
and we still possessed our lives.
Now and again we could hear the wild elephants
trumpeting as they came down to their feeding-
grounds, and once the air was stirred by the deep
roar of a tiger. Soon the moon began to rise, and
we agreed that it would be well to follow the path, if
we could find it, and return to the boats under the
shelter of night. Cautiously we emerged from our
hiding-place, and in Indian file took our way in the
direction whence only that morning we had come.
What a long time ago it seemed !
The jungle seemed to grow denser and darker, and
the path came to an end; but still we struggled on,
hoping against hope. Thorns tore our flesh or held
us fast ; great creepers twined in a tangle round our
limbs and detained us; at times our passage was
barred by some close thicket through which we had
to force our way, now creeping, now pushing, now
falling ; caught by the hair and strangled by the
neck; yet still we struggled on. At one place
M——'s hat was knocked off his head by a branch,
and in the darkness we could not find it again. What
a long interminable nightmare it was; but still we
toiled on, on. Even if we were off the path, still
268 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
every step we took removed us, as we hoped, from
the neighbourhood of the marauders who had caused
our disaster.
At last, bruised and worn out, we came to a stand
from sheer exhaustion. In front of us rose a lofty
hill, and we felt unfit to face the ascent; so climbing
a short distance up the slope, to get above the
malaria of the low-lying jungle, we lay down, all six
of us, on the ground, and I soon fell into a dreamless
slumber with my head upon a stone. My last recol-
lection was that my good Fuzlah carefully tucked
round me the old “choga,” which he had rescued
from the baggage and had carried all through the
night wrapped round his waist.
When the morning dawned I woke with a start,
and for the moment I hardly realised where I was;
but soon came the bitter remembrance that we had
failed in our enterprise, and were fugitives in the
great trackless wilderness that surrounded us.
We arose, braced ourselves up and buckled our-
selves in. My leg felt very stiff and numb, but I
hoped that the warmth of exercise might mend this.
Major M-- lamented the loss of his hat during the
wanderings of the night, and tried to improvise a
head-covering with some leaves. We were hungry,
but there was nothing to eat; thirsty were we, but
there was no water. The question now was what
course to pursue; to descend into the valley filled
with our pursuers seemed suicidal, for they doubt-
less were making diligent search for the prize which
had escaped their grasp. We determined, then, to
ascend the hill-range which lay in front of us, and,
if possible, strike the river Koladan, which, according
THE SHENDUS. 269
to our calculations, lay on the other side ; there, we
thought, it would be easy to construct a raft and
float down to Teynwey's village.
Accordingly we set our faces at that hill, and
ascending, soon found ourselves entangled in a dense
jungle of bamboo, through which we had to cut a
way, taking it by turn to lead and hew a path through
the tough stems with my “kukri,” which here proved
of great service. The sun rose higher and higher,
and M—, being without a hat, suffered terribly
from the heat. I was filled with anxiety lest he
should be prostrated with sunstroke, which would
have been a fearful addition to our troubles. How-
ever, we made a sort of sombrero for him of plantain
leaves, which was better than the bough with which
he had previously tried to shield his head, and then,
encouraging each other with the hope that we should
soon see the Koladan, we pushed on bravely.
For five mortal hours we toiled up that hill, until
at length, parched and breathless, we gained the
summit. I saw Fuzlah, who was leading, sit down
wearily, and then I too, on reaching the top, sank
down in dismay, for before us lay, not the hoped-for
valley of the Koladan, but another hill, and beyond
that more hills, but no sign of a river. We had evi-
dently mistaken the lie of the country, and matters
began to look very serious. We had no food, but
that could be endured for some time yet, and at the
worst we could fall back on M--'s dog, which still
faithfully followed his master's wanderings. What
We could not do without, was—drink ; it was impos-
sible to preserve reason or life without water, and no
drop had passed our lips for twenty-four hours,
270 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
As I sat there, all parched and aching with thirst,
what visions crossed my mind! I recalled the long
reaches of the Koladan, with the morning breeze,
cool and perfume-laden, wooing the placid dark-green
water until it dimpled into smiles. I thought of
India, that thirsty land, and realised the devotion
with which all Easterns regard water; how their many
religions all unite in the necessity for ablution, how
their poetry sparkles with crystal fountains, how the
digging of a well gives a title to salvation, and how
appalling to dying men was the mockery of the
mirage, the Fata Morgana of the desert. Ah what
would I not then have given for one small cup of
water |
I was roused from my reverie by Toby, who came
dragging after him the succulent stem of a wild
plantain tree, and by mashing and squeezing the
pulpy fibre of this we managed to obtain a small
quantity of fluid, which, together with some of the
fruit, we divided among us.
From where we sat on the hill-top we had a grand
view of the Shendā country ; range upon range of
hills rose up blue in the distance, while here and
there to the south we could discern the Sulla
Khyoung, which we had quitted so hopefully two
days before, winding like a silver thread in the valley
below.
We had neither strength to breast the ranges which
lay in front of us, nor resources wherewith to bribe
the tribes to the east ; water alone was what we now
wanted, water at any cost. We resolved, then, to
retrace our steps and make for the Sulla Khyoung,
keeping a good look out to avoid the Shendās; so
THE SHENDU.S. - 271
once more we turned on the backward track. We
had gone but a little distance, when I heard a loud
crashing noise in front.
“What is it 2 ” I asked.
One of M---'s orderlies replied, “A tiger, Sahib ;
here he was lying, and I nearly stepped on him. I
think he must have been asleep.”
Bah! what is a tiger! The valley below into which
we were going was full of human tigers.
“Push on, cautiously, for your lives.”
I could walk better now that our path lay down-
hill ; but my wound not being yet quite closed, the
leg began to drag and felt rather numb. I did not,
therefore, lead the advance, but followed behind
Major M--, one of whose orderlies went in
front.
Suddenly I saw M- and the orderly go down on
their faces as if they were shot; I crouched down
also, as did the rest of the party, and then, cautiously
crawling forward on my belly, and peering through
the grass, I saw three Shendús who barred the path.
One of them was sitting in the fork of a tree with
his gun over his knee; the two others stood beneath.
They were evidently on the watch.
We all crouched hiding in the long grass, and
looked at each other. What was to be done P. We
could wait until darkness came on, and then sur-
prise the picquet. It might be done silently, and we
were two to one ; but from the lowland we heard the
sound of many voices. Our way was closed here, for
the time at any rate; so we again turned back, and
painfully re-ascended the hill until we reached a shady
thicket, where we concealed ourselves. Soon the
272 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
voices in the valley grew louder; there was laughing
and cheering, then the sounds grew fainter and died
away; the enemy were probably returning to their
homes. -
After nightfall we cautiously descended ; the
hostile picquet was gone, although under the tree
where we had seen the man sitting there still
smouldered the embers of their watch-fire. A
little further on, and we reached a stream which
ran right athwart our course, and in which I buried
my whole face, drinking deeply. Here we halted for
at least an hour, quenching the thirst that had con-
sumed us; and by the time we moved on again it
was very dark, and a thick fog came up the valley,
confusing us greatly as to the bearings which we
had taken in the morning. We pushed on, however,
in what we thought to be the direction of the Sulla
Rhyoung. The ground seemed to fall lower and
lower, the trees to grow larger, and the jungle darker
and more gloomy, as we proceeded.
It was growing late, we were chilled to the bone,
and very hungry, and at last agreed to halt in a
small hollow, shut in on every side, so that we could
make a fire to warm ourselves without much risk
of discovery, a fire which might also serve to scare
away the beasts which we could hear from time to
time moving in the jungle around us. I was very
young in woodcraft then, and our sole chance of
making a fire lay in four wax matches which I for-
tunately had in my pocket. We collected a small
heap of sticks and leaves, but they were damp from
the mist, and three out of the four precious matches
were expended in vain. How carefully we coaxed
THE SHENDUS. - 273
and manoeuvred with the last one; fortunately, this
time we were successful, and at length a cheerful
small flame brightened the dark hollow where we
had sheltered ourselves.
The question for consideration now was, how
long could we hold out without food in our wan-
derings P And it was then and there determined
that, faute de mieuw, we would eat the dog the next
night. Even poor M himself, in spite of his
affection for the “wee beastie,” gave way before
the necessities of the case, and agreed to sacrifice
his favourite.
Our native followers began to grow very de-
spondent, with the exception of Fuzlah, who,
throughout our difficulties presented a front of
cheerful but dogged determination. As true as
steel was Sergeant Fuzlah, and yet with a soft
heart for those he loved. Poor Toby wept copiously,
bitterly declaring that he was born with a black-
ened forehead, that his fate was evil, and that he
should never, never see his home again. He still
bore as his weapon of offence and defence the stout
kitchen-fork to which I have before alluded.
Our fire began to grow low from want of dry fuel,
and at last it went out and all was dark. No sound
then broke the chill stillness of the night, except the
patter of the dew-drops falling thick from the leafy
canopy above us, and an occasional scream from a
wild elephant away in the forest.
When the morning came we girded up our loins,
and a somewhat hot discussion arose as to the proper
direction to be pursued. Major M and all the
others were of one mind; they desired to go down-
18
274 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
wards, following the lie of the land, until they struck
the Sulla Khyoung, by following which, M
reasoned and the remainder concurred, that we must
eventually reach the Koladan.
I have never been able to account for my beha-
viour at this juncture, but I doggedly refused
to follow this course, and avouched my firm
belief that our safety lay in following a directly
contrary direction; and so we parted, they going
downward, while I and Fuzlah, who stuck by
me, went the other way. Wonderful to relate, I
had not gone thirty yards through the jungle,
when I stepped out upon a clearly-defined well-
trodden pathway, which was evidently the road
by which our coolies had fled, and along which our
enemies had returned when we heard them passing.
This was, indeed, a providential discovery, and
hastily despatching Fuzlah to recall M-- and the
rest of the party, we were soon progressing along
the new-found track.
We had not gone far when a feeble voice called to
us from the bushes. It was a servant of M--'s
who had fled along with the coolies, and not being
able to keep up with them in their headlong flight,
had hidden himself away in the jungle, and would
probably have died there had we not passed by ; for,
in addition to his sufferings from hunger and thirst,
he had been attacked by fever, and could now hardly
drag himself along. We supported the poor wretch
between us as best we could. He said that, after he
had concealed himself in the jungle, some two hun-
dred armed Shendús had passed by in swift pursuit
of the coolies, and that shortly after he had heard
THE SHENDUS. 275
cries and musket-shots. The Shendās returned the
next day by the same path, but in larger num-
bers, perhaps four hundred in all; they carried
packages, and had some prisoners bound with
them, and seemed in high glee, talking and laughing
together. -
At about one o'clock in the day we reached the
Sulla Khyoung, at the place where we had originally
disembarked; but to our great discomfiture not a
boat was to be seen, all had been removed from the
place where we had hidden them. After searching
a while we at length discovered one boat, which had
floated a little distance down the stream and was
stranded on the opposite bank. The stream was here
deep, and darkly suggestive of alligators, but there
* was no time for hesitation, and before long we had
secured the small dug-out canoe which was fortu-
nately unharmed. Only one paddle could be found, so
we had to make oars for ourselves, of pieces of split
bamboo put crosswise in a slit stem of the same
useful plant; and at length, with much thankful-
ness of heart, we seated ourselves in the boat and
pushed off.
My previous practice in steering proved now
of good service, for none of the party had the
least idea of steering with a paddle ; but it was not
Without misgivings that I took my seat in the stern,
as I thought of the great rapids in the Koladan,
through which I had to guide our somewhat cranky
craft.
We found on shore near the landing-place some
handfuls of rice, probably spilled from one of our
own baskets, and this we munched with a little
18 #
276 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
water, and felt much the better for it ; and so we
left the shore and paddled away with infinite thank-
fulness. -
Soon we shot out of the Sulla Khyoung into the
broad sunlight of the great river, and I could hear
the roar of the rapids in the reach below. Mentally
I pulled myself together, as it were, commending
myself to the good God who had hitherto so merci-
fully protected us; for I felt so exhausted and weak
that, if we came to grief in the rapids, I knew I must
go under. After all we had gone through, now
came the reaction, and my leg felt cold, numb, and
lifeless as a piece of wood. However, I hurooshed
my crew and determined to send her at it with a
rush.
The roar grew louder, the river became streaked
in parallel lines shooting downwards, the banks
flew past. The critical moment was approaching ;
on ahead I could see a howling, tumbling, foamy
waste of tossing water. I stood up to take my bear-
ings; right down the centre went a pathway of com-
paratively green water. I settled down again into
my place with a “Pull all, for your lives,” and
with a firm quick turn of the paddle I sent her head
into it.
Whish over great smooth shoulders of water
and dark down-sucking eddies that came and went,
like a flash we went ; the men cheered and paddled
like demons, there was a rush and a roar, we took
in a little water, and then, more by good luck than
good management, we found ourselves floating in
comparatively smooth water below, slipping on
rapidly to Teynwey's village, where food and
THE SHENDUS. 277
friendly faces awaited us; and our souls were filled
with a great peace and contentment, for we could
at length call our lives our own.
Major M and I gripped each other's hand
with full hearts as we stepped out of the boat; and
thus ended my unsuccessful effort to explore the
blue hills of the Shendā country.
278 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
CHAPTER IX.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG.
1866–67.
* ..." Tº E-
E-ºf -º
CHANDRAGUNA,
MY HEAD-QUARTERS IN THE CHITTAGONG
HILL TRACTS.
LookING back at the events of those past few weeks,
I felt deeply thankful to God for my preservation
throughout so many dangers. Death, possibly by
torture or slavery, would certainly have been our
lot had we been captured by the Shendās; but, in
spite of the failure of the expedition, I thought, and
still think, that our lack of success was attributable
more to ill-luck than to mismanagement.


THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 37%)
The Shendús, who acted as our guides, were of a
clan which was at feud with the village whence came
the party which we met in the forest, and this party
was at the time out on a marauding expedition when
we unluckily fell in their way. On the part of the
Shendās from Kheynāng's, who had sworn friendship
with us, I felt sure that there was neither collusion
nor treachery. I had eaten with them ; laughed,
drunk, and smoked in their company ; We Were
friends, in fact, and they had more to gain than to
lose by our safe conduct. It will also be remem-
bered that, when about to seek safety in flight,
Yitchee invited me to accompany him, and he must
subsequently have been at considerable trouble to
effect the restoration of the valuable sword which I
had lent him, and which, had he been dishonest, he
would most certainly have retained. -
That chapter, however, was closed, and at Akyab
I remember how strange everything seemed, after
all the excitement and rough adventure of forest life,
to find oneself once more safe and sound among
English people, putting on clean linen, and sitting at
meat like Christian men.
I telegraphed to Chittagong for my police yacht,
the “Foam,” to be sent round to Akyab, in order
that I might return by sea to my district. The
open air life I had been living for so many weeks,
the constant change of scene, combined with the
severe bodily exercise, had prevented my taking
much thought hitherto. We had lived au jour le
jour in truly animal fashion ; but now, with my face
turned towards Bengal again, I speculated somewhat
ruefully as to how the police work of my district
280 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
had gone on during my long absence, and what my
Inspector-General would have to say on the subject.
Akyab is one of the most beautiful and picturesque
spots I have ever seen. It is situated in a lovely
land-locked bay, the distant shores of which are
backed by the blue hills, the fastnesses of the
Khyens. The houses of the European residents,
built along a sea-shore which stretches in miles of
white sand, remind one more of an English watering-
place than of an Indian station. The natives of the
place are, by a large majority, Buddhist in faith and
Burman by race, and I found them a bright cheery
people, contrasting favourably with the sullen bigotry
of the ordinary Mahommedan, or the caste prejudices
of the Hindus of Lower Bengal.
I now regretfully bade adieu to my friend and
comrade, Major M--, and to other kind and
hospitable fellow-countrymen at Akyab ; and the
16th of February 1866 saw me on board the
“Foam,” coasting along pleasantly enough under
easy sail, bound for Chittagong. I lounged on the
deck, in the shadow of the great mainsail, gazing
at the white coast-line with the blue hills beyond,
and listening to Abdul Manji, the yacht’s sailing-
master, a good specimen of the Chittagong Mussal-
man, who related to me the astonishing adventures
which I had, it would seem, encountered, according
to the stories current among the natives during my
absence.
“Yes, Sahib,” said Abdul, “Sherban Ali, the
cloth-merchant, who you know lives near the mosque
in the Burra Bazaar, told me all your wonderful
adventures some time ago. We heard how you had
THE HILL TRACTs of CHITTAGONG. 281
disguised yourself as a Cabul merchant, and, having
dyed your face and hands, got access to the King of
the Shendús, who, however, discovered you to be an
Englishman, and ordered you to be impaled. This,
however, could not be true. Inshallah you black-
ened the king's face instead, so Sergeant Fuzlah
tells me.”
I looked forward, and saw Fuzlah smoking a
peaceful hookah and yarning away to the boatmen
in the bows, while Toby sat by on the broad grin.
Abdul continued :
“And we heard how you made your escape from
the king's village, and fortified yourself in the valley,
holding out for weeks against all his soldiers, and
finally making your escape by swimming the river
at night. Allah-t-allah It was wonderful But,
my lord, Fuzlah will not admit that you all had to
eat dog. Do the people there live on dog, Sahib P
Khair It is well. Your honour's fortune is great,
for the day I left Chittagong the Lord Sahib from
Calcutta arrived in a steamer, and is waiting to
confer a dress of honour upon your Highness.”
This was news indeed. The Lord Sahib was, of
course, the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, who was
on tour, and although Abdul's “dress of honour”
was all nonsense, still, at this juncture, a personal
interview with the head of the Bengal Government
might help much to smooth my rugged Inspector-
General, and might even bring me into the sunshine
of official notice.
I reached Chittagong on the 19th of February,
and was received with open arms by my kind friend
the Commissioner, who at once despoiled me of my
282 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
later diaries, which, together with the letters he had
previously received from me, he hastily sent off for
the perusal of His Honour the Lieutenant-Governor
of Bengal, who was lying off the port of Chittagong
in a Government vessel. -
In the afternoon we visited the great man, and I
was accorded a very favourable reception ; after which
I returned, well pleased and much relieved that I had
escaped censure in undertaking such an expedition
on my own responsibility.
I telegraphed to England to give my home-people
tidings of my safe return (a telegram of a few words
from Chittagong to England at that time cost £5 8s.
and was five days in transit); and then settled down
again in my little bungalow on the hill-top, and re-
sumed my routine duties as before, enlivened by the
evening game of racquets, in which all the station
indulged, and by occasional music at the judge's or
Commissioner's house.
In the “Calcutta Gazette” for March I saw myself
promoted to the rank of Captain in Her Majesty's
104th Regiment, and on the same page found my
appointment, by the Bengal Government, to officiate
as Superintendent of Hill Tribes in the Chittagong
Hill Tracts. This last appointment was entirely due
to the kind offices of the Commissioner, who, having
been directed to prepare a scheme for the better
administration of the hills, had recommended me as
fittest for the post in question.
In the official letter which conveyed the Govern-
ment Sanction to my appointment, the Lieutenant-
Governor expressed some doubts as to whether I
had the training necessary to deal properly with the
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 283
somewhat intricate revenue and land settlement
questions that frequently cropped up on the border ;
but the Commissioner guaranteed my ability, and
promised a close supervision of my work, which
disposed of the difficulty.
I took charge of my new appointment on the 15th
of April, being vested by Government with the full
powers of a magistrate in criminal work, besides
the necessary authority for the trying of civil and
revenue cases, and the Commissioner lent me his
own small river steamer to convey me and my
belongings to my new district. -
Chandraguna, then the head-quarters of the Hill
Tracts, is situated eighty miles from Chittagong up
the river, just on the borders of the regulation dis-
trict of Chittagong. The Superintendent’s bungalow,
provided rent-free by Government, was built on a
Small hill, overlooking the broad reaches of the river
Karna-phuli to the west and south, and backed on
the east and north by high jungle-clad hills, grading
backward higher and higher to unknown distances.
The house was small, containing only a sitting-room
and a bed-room, with bath and store-room; the situa-
tion was beautiful, and it was my delight to sit and
Work at a table in the verandah with all this new and
lovely scenery spread out before me. The ground
outside the verandah was carpeted thick with the
mimosa (sensitive plant), while at the corner of the
bungalow there grew a fine pomegranate tree, which
Was, when I arrived, covered with scarlet blossoms.
A little lower down the hill was the kutcherry, or
court-house, where the administration of justice was
carried on ; and here also, under a police guard, was
284 A Fly ON THE WHEEL's
deposited the Government treasure-chest, in which
were kept the revenues of the State. Lower still,
on the banks of the river, stood ten or twelve shops,
dignified by the name of “The Bazaar,” and close
by were the mud huts of the police barracks. Here
there were quartered some fifty men in reserve, who
were employed from time to time to relieve the
garrisons of the three frontier guard-posts, which
were situated in different parts of the hills, and
which were maintained to repel the incursions of the
independent frontier tribes.
I soon settled into the saddle and began to catch
a good hold on my work, mindful always of the adage,
“For him who does things at the proper time, one
day is worth three.” So I did all things as far
as possible by rule. I rose generally at 6 A.M., took
a cup of tea with some fruit, and then studied
Burmese for an hour; after this I opened my letters
and heard and gave orders on all police reports.
At 10 A.M. I went to kutcherry, to hear such cases
as came on for trial, such as suits for rent or the
recovery of debts, divorce cases and family disputes.
There seemed to be little vulgar crime in the Hills,
but I was much troubled by low Bengali attorneys,
who were attracted to the district by the ignorance
and simplicity of the hill people, and who set them-
selves to foment litigation and promote disputes.
The hill folk proper, I found, did not have recourse
to the English courts if they could possibly avoid
it; in the first place, because the majority of them
did not understand Bengali, which had been fixed
as the court language, and secondly, to avoid the
expense of employing an attorney and of paying
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 285
the Government stamp fees, both of which were
required in all cases at that time. I resolved before
long that, with the assistance of the Commissioner,
things should be altered in regard to legal proce-
dure.
After kutcherry I had to drill my policemen;
in this I was ably assisted by my old friend Fuzlah,
whose transfer to this district I had been able to
arrange along with my own, and who now blossomed
forth in all the dignity of a sub-inspector orjemadar,
to which grade he had been promoted in recognition
of his services during the Shendū expedition. I
also had the assistance of another good soldier,
named Ruldro Khan, who had served through the
Mutiny as a havildar in Rattray’s Sikhs, and who
afterwards, on entering the police, had attached
himself to my fortunes, following me from Noacolly.
Both he and Fuzlah were tried soldiers, tho-
roughly trained in drill and discipline; but the rest
of the Hill Tract Frontier police were for the most
part a poor lot of men, chiefly consisting of Bengalis,
quite unfit for any work demanding a stout heart,
and who, if it came to fighting, would probably show
unanimity in running away. There were, it is true,
a sprinkling of Manipuris among them, who, if pro-
perly trained, made good soldiers, but the value of
these men was materially lessened by the rigidity
of their caste prejudices.
After inspecting and drilling the men I usually
Walked through the bazaar, to hear any complaints,
after which I paid a visit to the Government ele-
phants, of which there were six attached to the
district, There were at that time no roads in the
286 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Hill Tracts, and travelling was usually done either
by boat or on foot, through the jungles or along
the beds of streams, and for this latter work the
assistance of elephants was indispensable. -
I was pleased to find myself already known to
the hill people under the name of Hurbut Tongloyn,
my old acquaintance Twekam Tongloyn of the
Matamori, with whom I had foregathered on my
way to the Koladan, having published abroad his
relationship.
I had not been long at work in my new appoint-
ment when the rainy season set in, and I then
learnt, for the first time, the full delights of the
rains in a hill country. Fungi sprang up on my
boots in the night; if my books were left un-
tended for a couple of days, they became plentifully
garnished with blue mould ; while my poor violon-
cello resolved himself into his elemental parts, all
his glue gave way, and I found him lying in his
case in pieces. As a set-off, with the advent of the
monsoon, fevers and other forms of sickness cleared
off, and with a refreshingly lower grade of tempera-
ture we quickly attained a comparatively clean bill
of health. The Hill Tracts, in truth, were not a
healthy abiding place, and although afterwards I
got acclimatized, and grew to love the country very
much, yet at first I was subject to frequent attacks
of lassitude and low spirits, feeling myself percep-
tibly growing older, and, although I was but seven
and twenty, my head was thickly sprinkled with
grey hair.
Little by little I made myself theoretically ac-
quainted with my small kingdom, and I now looked
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 287
forward anxiously to the coming cold weather, when
I hoped to travel about, and make the acquaintance
of the people of the Hill Tracts.
During the rains all locomotion perforce ceased,
the rivers being in flood and the country impassable,
and I utilised this quiet time to study Burmese,
which was the vernacular of the majority of the hill
people. I agreed fully with the local proverb, “No
speech, no knowledge,” and was rewarded by finding,
as the weeks went on, that I could understand and
speak the language fairly well. -
My charge, the district known as the Chittagong
Hill Tracts, is situated between 21° 13' and 23° 47'
north latitude, and 91° 46' and 92° 49' east longi-
tude, containing an area of nearly 7,000 square
miles, and a population, as ascertained by the census
of 1872, of 63,054 souls. The district is bounded
on the north by the independent state of Hill Tipra,
on the south by the Akyab district, and on the west
by the Regulation district of Chittagong. The
eastern boundary was at that time undefined, but
might be considered as extending just so far as
British influence could make itself felt.
The district itself was divided into three parts:
(1) the southern division, subject to the Bohmong,
a chief of Burmese extraction; (2) a central tract
inhabited chiefly by the Chakma tribe, under the
regency of their chief's widow, the Rani Kalindi,
the heir, her grandson, being still a minor; and (3)
the northern portion, inhabited by Burmese-speaking
clans, with a sprinkling of immigrants from the
Tipra district, who paid annual tribute to our Go-
vernment through a Burmese chief known as the
288 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Mong Raja. North, south, and west of the district
we had no trouble, our boundaries being conter-
minous, either with British districts, or with coun.
tries subject to British influence; but to the east
were the independent tribes known to us as Kūkis,
but more properly to be called by their own generic
title of Lushai. They were a numerous and aggres-
sive people, offshoots of the mighty Singpho horde
which stretches from Assam, between China and
Burmah, as far as the Shan country, near Siam in
the south, and of which my old enemies the Shendús
were also a branch. -
These Lushai were the standing problem which
embarrassed all local administration ; they con-
tinually raided into the Hill Tracts, attacking and
plundering the inhabitants, burning the villages,
slaying the men, and carrying off the women and
children into slavery. This had gone on for years,
until the fear of these inroads had at last established
a broad tract of depopulated and deserted country,
lying like a zone between us and the Lushais, ex-
tending from north to South in a breadth of perhaps
fifty miles.
The nearest Lushai chief, named Rutton Poia, had
been attacked and his village burnt by a British
retaliatory expedition under Major Raban, in 1861.
Since then various small raids had been made, which,
however, we were unable to bring home to the per-
petrators; so that between ourselves and the Lushais
a hollow peace might be said to prevail. The situa-
tion, in fact, was strained, and hostilities might break
out at any moment.
There had been two Superintendents of Hill Tracts
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 289
before my time. The first one, Captain M , Was
known locally as the “pugla Sahib,” the mad master;
but, mad or not, he had made his mark, and his
exploits still lived in the memories of the people.
Amongst other things, he once pursued a party of
Lushai raiders, and caught them red-handed ; they
out-numbered his small party as five to one, but he
at once attacked and put them to flight, killing two
of the raiders with his own hand, and rescuing the
captives whom they were carrying away. On another
occasion he had himself lowered from the top of a
lofty cliff which overhung the foaming rapids of
Burkhul, on the Karna-phuli River, and then swam,
or rather was hurled down the rapids, emerging
safely, to the astonishment of the hill people, about
half a mile down stream. These and other feats of
personal courage and physical ability had given him
great popular reputation, but had not given satisfac-
tion to his official superiors, and he was consequently
removed to make room for my predecessor. This
gentleman, bred and brought up in the strict school
of regulations, law and legal procedure, proved, I
believe, too square for the very round hole of the
Tracts, and so he also was removed, and I was put
in on trial.
Not long after my appointment to the Hills I
received a letter from Colonel (now Sir Arthur)
Phayre, Chief Commissioner of British Burmah,
whom I had met at Akyab, informing me that he
had sent in my name to the Government of India for
appointment as Superintendent of Hill Tribes on the
Koladan. This unsolicited favour was very flattering
to me, and I at once wrote thanking him and accepting
19
290 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the appointment. This I did because I preferred
Burmah to Bengal, and also because the Burmese
appointment would be a permanent one, while my
post in the Chittagong Hill Tracts was at that time
only temporary. I was not sure, moreover, whether
the climate of the Chittagong Hills would suit me;
for during the few months I had been there I had
felt languid and weak, while my old wound troubled
me a good deal, small abcesses having formed near
the place of exit of the bullet. The doctors assured
me that no bone was injured, and that no splinter had
been left behind, so that these unfavourable symp-
toms could only be ascribed to climatic influence.
Eventually, however, the question was settled by
the Bengal Government declining to let me go to
Burmah, at the same time appointing me permanently
as Deputy Commissioner and Political Agent of the
Hill Tracts of Chittagong, on an increased salary.
About this time, also, I was admitted as a Captain
into the Bengal Staff Corps, and ceased to belong to
Her Majesty's 104th Regiment.
My friend J–—, with whom I had chummed in old
days at Shahjehanpore, still kept up a correspondence
with me. He had lately married a sweet young
wife, and was holding his old appointment as Personal
Assistant to the Inspector-General of Police in
Calcutta.
I had not long to wait for my first news of the
Lushais, for on the 7th of July it was reported that
a band of them had entered British territory, and cut
up three villages belonging to the Bohmong, in the
hills south of Chandraguna ; a detachment of the
same party also plundered and burnt another village,
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 291
nearer to me on the Kaptai, a small affluent of the
Karna-phuli. They killed four villagers, and carried
off into captivity no less than eighty persons. This
raid occurred at a very unusual time, in the height of
the rainy season, when the difficulties of hill travel-
ling were greatly increased, and when the Lushais,
like other hill folk, should have been employed in
cultivation.
I started at once on foot, with a party of police,
in pursuit of the marauders, but could find no trace
of them, they having made their dash and retired
as swiftly and secretly as they had come. The
exposure, however, that I underwent, and the
anxiety of this fruitless pursuit, the sleeping out in
the forest amid heavy rain, combined with scanty
food and severe fatigue, brought on a sharp attack
of fever, by which I was prostrated for some
time.
The difficulty of adequately defending the long
line of frontier, consisting as it did of hundreds of
miles of pathless forest, weighed upon my mind
greatly at this time, and I found myself day and
night reflecting upon the problem. There seemed
but two alternatives: we might either, at a great
cost, send a punitive expedition and destroy the
villages of the raiders; or we ought to strengthen
our cordon of police posts, and establish an efficient
line of defence along the whole frontier. Either of
these courses would entail great additional expense
on Government, and as the standing paradox was to
obtain security without increase of expenditure, I
thought it unlikely that either of my alternatives
would be acceptable to my superiors.
19, #
292 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
What other way, then, was open to me? This
was the subject of my reflections; this cud I chewed
and re-chewed, ruminant. The main point was
evidently to obtain some influence over these
Lushais. My predecessor, Captain M , had gained
great renown by his lucky surprise of their raiding
party, and he was currently reported among them
to be invulnerable to shot or steel. Could they be
brought to consider this quality as one generic to the
race of Hill Superintendents 2
Now, in my somewhat miscellaneous reading, I
had come across an account of the conjurer Robert
Houdin's experiences among the Arabs. The
French Government had brought him over to
Algiers to undertake a contest with the native
marabouts, and he had been completely successful in
establishing a reputation as a mighty magician.
Among other tricks I remembered one in which he
had permitted an Arab to fire a loaded gun at his
breast; the gun contained a marked bullet, which
was immediately afterwards produced by Houdin
from between his teeth.
I was pretty quick with my fingers, and deter-
mined, if possible, to reproduce this trick among the
Lushais, being quite sure that, if successful, my
renown would transcend even that of the famous
Captain M g • *
It was not long before the wished-for occasion
presented itself. At the end of September I went
on a visit to the village of Ishan Dewan, one of the
headmen of the Chakma tribe, which was situated
close to our most advanced police post of Kassalong,
a long day's journey from my head-quarters up the
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 293
Karna-phuli. The main object of my visit was to
meet some Lushai messengers who had been sent to
me by our old enemy Rutton Poia, and, if it could
be managed, I intended to accompany them back
across the frontier and pay a visit to the chief in his
own village.
The Lushai “karbaris '' (literally “men of busi-
ness”) duly arrived, and met me at Kassalong. In
their interview with me they stated that Rutton
Poia was anxious to maintain the friendly relations
at present existing between us, and trusted that his
people might be permitted to trade, as heretofore,
at our frontier markets. He wished also to assure
me that he had had nothing to do with the late raid
on the Bohmong's villages. I listened patiently to
all they had to say, and then replied that, as the
matters they referred to were of the highest import-
ance, it was necessary for me to see their chief
personally. Would he meet me at Kassalong 2 Im-
possible. Then I would myself go to him. After
some demur this was at length agreed to.
Ishan Dewan did all he could to dissuade me
from the enterprise, reminding me that it was not so
long ago that Rutton Poia had murdered, or caused
to be murdered, a sergeant and two of our frontier
policemen, who had been sent on a friendly message
to his village. I meant going, however, and told
Ishan that, although there might be danger to a
policeman, there could be none to an official of my
exalted position.
I ordered Jemadar Fuzlah, with twenty of my
best men, fully armed, to accompany me, and the
next morning we started in dug-out canoes on our
294 - A FLY ON THE WEIEEL.
journey up stream. About six miles from Kassa-
long we reached the Burkhul rapids, a grand tumble
of water ; here it was that my predecessor, Captain
M—, had been let down from a lofty over-hanging
crag, which towered a hundred feet or more above the
roaring water, to take his perilous swim. Truly a
bold and dare-devil feat
The Lushai “karbaris,” like my old friends the
Shendús, would not trust themselves in boats, but
went on foot. My boats were paddled by some
of Ishan Dewan's Chakmas, who accompanied me
much against the grain, being in fear of their
lives; I was, however, compelled to employ them to
manage the boats, as I found to my astonishment
that the hill police were, for the most part, unused
to rowing, and quite unable to steer a canoe. We
dragged our boats painfully through the rapids,
having often to work waist-deep in the water ; but
above was smooth and easy going, so that we paddled
along without further interruption, until towards
sunset we reached Utanchatra, where we found the
Lushais awaiting our arrival, they having travelled
on foot through the forest.
Here we drew our boats on to the great flat rocks
which formed the bed and banks of the river, and
camped for the night. The Chakma boatmen
lighted a fire on a sandy place by the side of the
river, and the bright flames irradiated a small zone
of the surrounding forest, throwing into denser
blackness the depths of wood and stretches of dark
water that lay beyond. Our dinner, such as it was,
was speedily despatched, and the men, tired with
their day's work, were soon stretched sleeping round
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 295
the fire or in the boats. No sound broke the still-
ness of the night, save the lapping of the water
against the side of my boat, where I lay smoking a
final pipe, and thinking of the day's journey.
I thought of our start in the grey dawn, when the
mist was still floating in white wreaths upon the
river ; then how, as the sun rose in the heavens, my
men warmed to their work and paddled with a will,
making the canoe jump again and the hills re-echo
with their hill cry, the “hoia.” Suddenly all would
hush, and a whisper be passed back to the Sahib that
a deer was within shot, drinking at the margin of
the stream ; or of the troop of monkeys to be seen
gambolling in the branches of the overhanging trees,
some drinking at the water's edge from out the
hollows of their tiny hands, while a few hundred
yards further off a fine jungle-cock strutted in the
morning sun.
Midday, perhaps, was the least pleasant time in
the twenty-four hours, for then all creatures were
silent, all had withdrawn to the shade and shelter of
the forest; only the large black forest-flies were out,
settling on one without a sound, and with the soft-
ness of a piece of cotton wool, the first sign of their
presence being a sting as of a lancet-thrust. Once,
with a clack of wings like some aerial machine, the
great hornbill passed over our heads, to or from his
nest, where doubtless he had left his mate sitting
on the eggs, duly plastered up with mud, leaving
only room for her beak to receive the nourishment
he brought her. The natives will not keep the
large bill of this bird in their houses, although they
will eat its flesh. The bill they believe to cause
296 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
discord in families and to promote quarrels between
husband and wife.
Then came the evening with its chorus of frogs
and the shrill horn of the mosquito, while the sun
westering in golden stretches of light made the river
a path of glory. As twilight fell, I remember, an old
tree we passed on the bank was full of fire-flies, who
sent forth a beautiful silvery radiance, making the
whole tree beat, as it were, in pulses of light, fading
and flashing. -
The next morning early we left our boats, and
followed a jungle-path leading towards a lofty range
of hills some ten or twelve miles distant, on the top
of which was situated Rutton Poia's village. Our
path for some distance lay over low-lying undulating
ground, crossing occasionally a rivulet, or passing
through dense forest jungle ; then it rose on a hill
spur, winding up over boulder-covered slopes, among
huge trees thickly hung with creepers and orchids,
until at length it narrowed into a close, rocky defile.
Here for a little space we halted, to allow the
“karbaris” who guided us to parley with two wild-
looking Lushai Scouts, who, each armed with an old
fire-lock, were posted on the summit of a towering
rock which commanded the path. Then we passed
on again, until at last the path came out on to a sheer
precipice several hundred feet in depth, along the
face of which the path was led, by a sort of bamboo
ladder resting on wooden piles, driven firmly into
crevices in the rock. A very awkward and shaky
pathway I found it for my booted feet, and I
was heartily glad when I arrived safely at the
other side, where we reached a long grassy slope
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 297
which led to the summit of the hill. On reaching
the end of the ascent we were confronted by a crowd
of forty or fifty Lushais, armed with guns and
spears, and presenting a somewhat truculent and
offensive aspect. I took no notice whatever of these
persons, recalling the hill proverb: **
If you go into a strange river take in your flags;
If you enter a strange village, take the strut out of your
walk;
or better still, as my hill servant quoted:
In your own village crow and be a cock; but when
You’re in another, you must be a hen.
I sat down on the grass to recover breath after the
somewhat stiff pull up the hill, and the “karbaris.”
went on to communicate to the chief, Rutton Poia,
the advent of his unlooked-for visitor.
The Lushais held aloof, regarding us in surly,
scowling fashion ; nor would they respond to any
friendly overtures on the part of my men. I ordered
Fuzlah to see that our retreat was not cut off ; but
inwardly I reflected, with some disquietude, how easy
it would be to catch us like rats in a trap, by simply
breaking down the bamboo ladder not far below. I
gazed upon the Lushais with much curiosity, as they
were, with the exception of the “karbaris,” the first
fair sample of the race which had come before me.
They were well-made muscular men, of somewhat
dark complexion, and with a surly, forbidding cast of
countenance. Their clothing consisted of one long
home-spun mantle or sheet of cotton cloth, some-
times white with a blue transverse stripe, or of a
dark-blue fabric, the stripe being crimson or yellow ;
underneath this they were in puris naturalibus.
298 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Their straight black hair was bound in a knot upon
the nape of the neck. Some of the youngest and
best-looking of the braves had small bunches of
brilliant-coloured feathers, crimson, blue, and yellow,
stuck ear-ring fashion through the lobe of the ear.
About half of them carried guns, which, as far as I
could make out, were all Tower-marked old flint-lock
muskets of King George III.'s time ; some of these
had been re-stocked and handsomely painted in red,
black, and yellow. Two or three among them, I
noticed, wore the handsome guyal powder-horns
which I had previously seen among the Shendās;
and some smoked pipes made of bamboo and lined
with copper, similar to one with which Yitchee had
presented me.
After a short interval, the “karbaris’ returned,
and intimated that Rutton Poia would receive me
individually ; but that, on account of the fears of the
women and children in his village, he was unable to
admit my armed escort, who would have to remain
outside. This did not admit of argument ; so, after
a brief consideration, I ordered my men to camp
where they were, placing a sentry on the bamboo
bridge, and then, taking with me Fuzlah and my hill
boy Adupah, who was useful as an interpreter, I set
forth to the village, preceded by the “karbaris.”
The Lushai village lay before me, a confused mass
of houses thickly scattered over the hill-side, and
nearly all on different levels. The village was sur-
rounded by a palisade of enormous logs, as thick as
the leg of an elephant and ten feet high. The
entrance lay through a stockaded passage, thickly
studded with downward-pointing bamboo spikes, and
THE HITIL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 299
defended by two heavy doors of rough-hewn timber, so
thick as to be practically fire and bullet proof. On
passing through the passage, I found the stockade
was lined with men in readiness to repel any attack.
Evidently these Lushais were a suspicious race,
accustomed to treacherous dealing.
The village itself was built on no fixed principle,
each householder having apparently placed his
dwelling where it seemed best to himself. There
was, however, the semblance of a main street, and
down this we solemnly walked, preceded by the
“karbaris,” towards an isolated building standing in
the centre of the village, which, they informed me,
was the guest-house, where I was to be lodged.
Opposite to this was Rutton Poia's abode, a large
barn-like structure, a hundred and fifty feet long by
forty broad, raised on a low platform about four feet
from the ground. It was thatched with wild-palm
leaves, and its entrance adorned with long lines of
skulls, buffalo, pig, and deer, over the doorway.
I looked anxiously to see if I could distinguish
any human heads among the trophy, but could see
none. This I considered a favourable sign, for I had
been informed that the heads of the unfortunate
policemen who had been killed here, not more than a
year ago, were hanging up over the chief's doorway,
and I drew a favourable augury from the fact that
they had been removed out of regard for my preju.
dices.
Another hopeful circumstance was that the village
was thronged with women and children, all crowding
out to look at the strange white man, for I knew
that in case of danger the women and children were
300 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
first of all hidden away. These females were stout-
legged and not uncomely, clad in the scantiest of blue
skirts round the hips, the upper part of the body
being shrouded in the national home-spun sheet. All
children under ten were, without any exception,
naked. -
I was shown up the ladder into the guest-house, a
one-roomed dwelling, with walls of bamboo mat,
raised on a high platform, to which one mounted by
a sloping log cut in steps.
I asked when it would be convenient for the chief
to see me, and was informed that the moment had
not yet arrived, as Rutton Poia had sent out to
summon some of the neighbouring chiefs, but that
I was to be formally introduced to the family circle
on the following day. This information I extracted
from one of the “karbaris,” who was affable and
fairly communicative, and who had evidently been
told off to attend upon me and keep me in a good
humour, as he devoted himself exclusively to my
service.
Towards sundown some food arrived for us from
the chief's house; a rough and barbaric mess of
seethed pig's flesh and rice, garnished with greasy
capsicums. Some rice and other uncooked food had
been sent to my men outside the village, as I ascer-
tained from Fuzlah, whom I sent out to reassure
the party and see that the sentries were properly
posted. -
I was somewhat troubled by the inquisitiveness of
the boys and young men of the village, who climbed
up perpetually to peep into the guest-house. For hours
together eyes glistened through every crack in the
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 301
walls, giving one an uncomfortable sensation; but as
the evening came on they retired, and we were left
alone for the night. To prevent surprise I had
undertaken to watch until midnight, while Fuzlah
and Adupah would share the remainder of the night-
watch, keeping guard while I slept.
I had brought with me a soft quilted “rezai'' to
sleep on, and, with a rug wrapped round me, and
sword and pistol under my head, I lay and thought
long and deeply upon my line of action on the
IOOO!"I’OW.
The position was not altogether a pleasant one,
and caused me to cogitate much upon the nature of
fear, and to wish that timidity or nervousness could
be excised by a surgical operation from the characters
of those who did not desire these emotions. I have
found through life that, although one can always force
one’s body to do the right thing at the right time,
yet that to eliminate nervousness from the mind is a
much more difficult matter. An old Swedish story
came into my head as I lay there thinking upon the
curious inequalities of disposition which we call
cowardice.
When Charles Gustavus, King of Sweden, was
besieging Prague, a peasant of most extraordinary
and portentous visage demanded admission to the
royal service, offering, by way of qualification, to
devour a whole hog in His Majesty's presence. The
celebrated old General Königsmarck was standing by
the King at the time, and he, although a soldier of
proved courage, was rather superstitious. Regarding,
therefore, this astounding offer of the peasant as
something “uncanny,” he remarked to the King
302 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
that the man was probably a sorcerer, and should be
burnt. -
“Sire l’” said the peasant, highly incensed at such
uncalled for interference, “if Your Majesty will
make that old man take off his sword and his spurs,
I will eat him immediately, before I commence on
the hog.”
This terrible threat, combined as it was with a
preternatural expansion of the hideous peasant's
jaws, had such an effect on the old General that he
forthwith fled, never stopping until he reached his
own quarters, where he continued shut up in a
melancholy and desponding frame of mind, brought
on by disgust at himself for having given way to
panic. It is the unknown and the mysterious which
produce the mental tumult which we call fear.
Omne ignotum pro magnifico.
During the early part of the night the sounds of
rough chanting, accompanied monotonously by a drum,
reached us from the chief's house; but soon all was
silent, and the village seemed wrapped in slumber,
save a guard of two or three Lushais, who lounged
smoking by the chief's door. It was a novel posi-
tion: on a hill-top two thousand feet or more above
the sea, everything different from my customary
surroundings; climate, scenery, scents and sounds,
all different, all new. I had no desire to sleep, and
Fuzlah also seemed disinclined for slumber and gladly
drew towards the fire at my invitation to have a chat.
He was of opinion that the Lushais were a murderous-
looking lot of scoundrels, and that what we ought to
have done was to have brought fifty more of our
men and burnt down the whole village. Then we
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 303
talked of our Shendā adventure, and this led to his
own previous life, and he recounted many things of
wars and stratagems, when as a comparatively young
man he had served as a soldier under the Maharaja
of Cashmere, at Gilghit. Insensibly my attention
wandered. I had so much to think of in the present
that I could not give heed just then to the past : so
Fuzlah soon wrapped himself in his rug and went to
sleep.
About eleven o'clock a stealthy step came up the
ladder, and the “karbari” put his sly head in at the
door. Finding my eye upon him, he smiled vaguely
and went away again ; probably he had come to see
that we were doing no mischief.
At midnight I roused Fuzlah and tried to sleep
myself. I had, however, seemingly scarcely closed
my eyes when I was awakened by an extraordinary
noise, something between a bull’s bellow and a rail-
way whistle. What was it? We started to our feet,
and Fuzlah and I were looking to our arms when
Adupah said, “It is only the guyal calling, Sahib
Look, the dawn is just breaking, and they are open-
ing the village gates for the beasts to go out to
pasture.”
These guyal were beautiful creatures, with broad
fronts, sharp wide-spreading horns, and mild, melan-
choly eyes. They were the indigenous wild cattle
of the hills, domesticated by these equally wild
Lushais; all day long they were allowed to wander
untended, feeding on the leaves and grass in the
jungles, but returning always each to his master's
house at night, to receive a handful of salt, of which
they are immoderately fond. The Lushais make no
304 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
use of the milk, regarding that fluid, indeed, as an
unclean excrement; but they would slaughter a
guyal occasionally, on high days and holidays, for
the sake of the flesh, which is esteemed a great
delicacy among them.
A little after sunrise the “karbari,” with two or
three other Lushais, came to say that Rutton Poia
would receive me; accordingly, accompanying them,
I entered the low, dark door of the chief's house.
Inside, I found myself in a long, low room, where,
although the hour was so early, numbers of men
were assembled, sitting along the wall with their
backs against the mat, smoking, while down the
centre of the room was the inevitable line of huge
earthen pots full of hill beer, and at each pot two
drinkers sucking up the liquor through reeds.
Making our way through this crowd, who did not
incommode themselves by moving out of the way
too much, we passed on to the further end of the
room, where, in a small partitioned recess with a
window looking out over the hills, sat Rutton Poia,
with sundry other chiefs. -
I looked at the chief with considerable curiosity,
and he at me with, I daresay, equal interest. He
was a small, dark, athletic man, with a melancholy
cast of countenance and large, stern eyes; he wore
no ornament or insignia of his rank, save that
his mantle was of a finer texture than the ordinary
home-spun worn by other Lushais. On my coming
the chief and those who were with him made no
motion of welcome ; but the “karbari” showed me
a mat, where I and my two attendants seated our-
selves. A pause ensued, during which the chiefs
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THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 305
Mºr
sat like so many brown images, each wrapped
round in his mantle. Inwardly I fumed greatly
at the rough incivility of these barbarians ; but
I had not come all this distance in order to lose my
temper, so I restrained myself and endeavoured to
assume a brown-image-like aspect, as like that of
the chief as possible.
At length Rutton Poia grunted. The “karbari”
translated this sound by saying that the chief wished
to know why I had brought a formidable party of
armed men to his village. I replied that my men
were armed in order to defend themselves from the
dangers of the road ; but that, having reached
Rutton Poia’s village, I had now no need of arms,
as my presence showed. I requested that the chief
would dispose of the contents of a bale which I had
brought with me. The said bale was quickly opened
and the contents, consisting of scarlet cloth, cotton
sheeting, beads, looking-glasses, &c., were carried off
by the chief's retainers; but Rutton Poia and the
rest of them still sat like brown images.
“I am glad to hear,” said I, “that Rutton Poia
disclaims all participation in the outrages which have
recently been committed in my country to the south;
and I have come here in consequence, to confirm the
friendship between us.”
No reply. Some brass cups containing a strong
spirit were handed round.
“The prevention of such occurrences is my
duty,” I continued; “or, when not preventible, we
can punish our enemies, and Rutton Poia knows that
what I say is true.”
This was a side shot at the chief personally; for I
20
306 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
knew that he had been himself in command of the
party which was so effectually routed by my prede-
cessor, Captain M On this, Rutton Poia took
a big gulp of spirits, and then addressed a remark
to the interpreter. I noticed that he stuttered in
speaking, but whether this was through nervousness
or habit I could not tell. I hoped he was nervous.
“The chief says that Captain M was a magi-
cian. Is it true that he had a charm against shot
and steel ?”
“All Sahibs,” I rejoined impressively, “are alike
gifted with this power by Government on their
taking charge of the Hill Tracts. If you have a
gun handy I can easily prove this to you.”
On a sign from Rutton Poia a gun was brought ;
the chiefs communed with each other in low tones,
the drinkers left their pots, and a crowd of heads
peeped over the partition. -
“Now,” I said, “charge that gun.” The “kar-
bari” carefully put in a measure of powder. “Now a
bullet.” He was putting in the bullet when I stopped
him—“Stay ! let me see the bullet.” It was
handed to me. “Lend me a knife.” One of the
chiefs produced a knife, and I proceeded to cut a
cross on the bullet; then, raising it up so that all
could see the mark, I said: “You would all recognise
that bullet again ** Murmurs of assent. “Then
see, I take that bullet and I place it in the gun,
thus; then I ram it home in this manner. Now,
prime the gun.”
It was a heavy flint-lock musket; the “karbari”
carefully primed it. Rutton Poia rose and carefully
examined the priming.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 307
“Now,” said I, “fire at my chest.” The
“karbari” hesitated.
“Do as the Sahib tells you,” said Rutton Poia.
I covered my eyes and face with my arm, and the
“karbari,” at a distance of about ten yards, took a
careful aim and fired. I staggered for a moment, as
if receiving a shock, and then, putting my hand to my
mouth, from between my teeth I took the marked
bullet.
“Is that the ball that was in the gun?” I asked
calmly, handing it to Rutton Poia. The excitement
was intense. The chiefs were now all standing, and
the bullet was rapidly passed from hand to hand
amidst exclamations of astonishment. It was
indeed the marked ball !
We resumed our seats. Conversation among the
Lushais now became vivid ; their immobility had
disappeared.
At last one big fellow, Vanlula I think was his
name, got up and began to make a speech. I need
not further describe the pow-wow which followed;
suffice it to say, that by 4 o’clock that afternoon I
was on my way back to the boats, having contracted
a solemn alliance, offensive and defensive, with
Rutton Poia and his allied chiefs, the compact
having been duly ratified by the sacrifice of a guyal,
with the proper ceremonies, and sealed by infinite
potations.
Skilled magicians, I suppose, are never nervous,
or it is, at any rate, part of their profession to appear
imperturbable ; but I confess that, as I lay in my
canoe on my way down stream, it was with a shiver
of excitement that I recalled the scene at the Lushai
20 +
308 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
village, and thought of the moment when I changed
the pewter bullet of the Lushai and substituted for
it a waxen ball carefully blackleaded outside, accord-
ing to Professor Houdin's receipt, which I had pre-
pared before starting, and which was of course
mashed to pieces in the gun when rammed home,
while I concealed the marked bullet under the base
of my thumb. When the “karbari” was about to fire
at me, I covered my face with my arm to keep the
powder and pieces of wax out of my eyes, the same
movement enabling me to pass the bullet into my
mouth, whence I was of course able to produce it
after the explosion. I went straight down the river,
stopping only one day at Chandraguna, and reached
Chittagong on the 24th October 1866, being anxious
to report what I had done to the Commissioner.
He was much amused and interested at my
adventure, but advised me to hold my tongue about
it officially, as Government would certainly not
approve of what I had done in contracting engage-
ments to assist a Lushai chief, and my irregular
proceedings might incur severe censure if officially
reported. I accordingly said no more about the
matter; but I determined, none the less, that as long
as I remained in the Hills I would loyally perform
my part of the compact, and would help Rutton
Poia and his clan against their savage neighbours, as
far as lay in my power, I must add that they too,
on their side, did faithfully observe their engage-
ments, and to the last day of my service in the Hills
they remained true to the alliance we had con-
tracted. -
I remained a fortnight with my friend the Com-
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 309
missioner in Chittagong, both for the sake of the
change of air, as also to consult him about the various
reforms which I wished to introduce in the Hill
Tracts.
I had previously received a present from the Mong
Raja, in the shape of the slave-boy Adupah, who had
accompanied me to Rutton Poia's. This lad had
been pledged to the Raja, when quite a child, as
security for debt. Of course on his conveyance to
me all claim on him was at an end, and he became a
free agent. I mention his manumission as illustrating
the curious custom of debt-slavery which prevails, I
believe, among all Turanian races, and which I found
in force in the Hill Tracts.
If a man wished to borrow money he deposited
as security a son or daughter, whose services were
taken as payment of interest for the debt, and the
release of whom was dependent on the repayment of
the original loan.
I know that these debt-servants were, as a rule,
well treated, and the custom being very ancient and
universal, required to be tenderly dealt with.
The hill proverb said : “A thorn under the flesh
is unendurable, so it is to have a relative in slavery.”
My predecessor had regarded the custom with
abhorrence, as slavery pure and simple; and when-
ever an instance came within his knowledge he at
Once released the debtor servant, much to the loss
and wonder of the creditor, who vainly explained
that the arrangement was made by mutual consent,
and that they had no wish to depart from ancient
custom. No; they were informed that slavery was
contrary to English law, and that their debts could
310 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
be sued for in court. Most of the creditors preferred
letting the debt go; for at that time our courts
were not resorted to or esteemed in the Hills. The
better class of hill men depended entirely on this
custom to supply their household with domestic
servants, there being no system of hired service,
although the debtor servant system really came to
much the same thing in the end. The Mong Raja,
for instance, informed me that he had personally
suffered great inconvenience ; my predecessor, it
appears, had released his whole household, so that
for some time the house-work had to be done by
the Raja's wife and daughters.
The country, in fact, was not ripe for so sudden
and great a social change as was here involved.
Had our courts really been resorted to by the people
at large, the old system would have lapsed of itself;
but as a matter of fact I was the only judicial officer
in the whole district ; the court language also
(Bengali), was incomprehensible to the majority of the
people, so that to thousands of men and women living
far away in nooks and crannies of the hills, English
law and justice were practically unknown.
The real rulers of the Hill Tracts were undoubtedly
the chiefs, and they, I found, were highly suspicious
and jealous of any infringement on their power and
prerogatives. My proper place, they considered,
was to remain an ornamental representative of
Central Government. But this, of course, was not
my view.
I liked my work more and more, feeling somehow
that I was fit for it, and heartily glad to have got
out of the Police into more congenial employment ;
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 311
but I soon found that, with the best intentions for
the good of the people, it was impossible to govern
actively without raising up enemies on every side.
I was not satisfied to see things run in the old
grooves, but where I perceived a fault, an error, or
an abuse, I attacked it boldly, and took no rest
until the thing was altered. This course, unfor-
tunately, pleased no one: not the people, for they,
like sheep, were contented to be shorn, so only that
they might tread the accustomed ways, following
ancient customs: not the wrong-doers or abusers of
power, naturally ; for who is it that can endure
being put in the wrong P And finally, Government
did not like a stirring up of mud; they desired peace,
quiet, and economy, and new brooms found no favour
in Calcutta.
Petitions and complaints against my administration
began to pour in, but I was nobly supported by the
Commissioner, who believed in me, and sympathised
with my somewhat Utopian schemes; so that at first
I had merely the trouble of replying to the allega-
tions of the different petitioners, and showing that
they had nothing substantial to complain of. I may,
perhaps, briefly state here what was the position in
the Hills at the time, and what were the reforms
which I desired so ardently to introduce.
First, our relations with the independent frontier
tribes, Lushai, Shendü, and others, were very un-
satisfactory. We had no direct dealings with them,
nor were we able to prevent or punish the periodic
raids which they made into British territory for the
purpose of obtaining slaves and booty.
It was necessary to make our cordon of police
312 A Ffly ON THE WHEEL.
posts thoroughly effective, in order to repel force by
force; also, if possible, friendly relations should be
entered into with the more powerful of the inde-
pendent chiefs, as in one instance I had already done.
Sooner or later, I felt sure that Government would
have to undertake a punitive expedition against the
more aggressive of the tribes. “First the stick
and then the sugar-stick,” is a golden maxim in
dealing with wild races.
Next, there was the status and authority of our
own subsidiary chiefs to be considered, those who
dwelt in British territory and owned allegiance to the
British Government. There were, as I have stated,
only three of these chiefs, viz. the Bohmong in the
south, the Rani Kalindi in the centre, and the Mong
Raja to the north. These chiefs had hitherto exer-
cised paramount authority throughout the hills,
keeping all power, profit, and information in their
own hands, and, with a view to maintaining their
position, they had hitherto opposed all efforts of the
Government representative to introduce any change
whatever into the administration.
It was plain that, unless I were content to be
the merest shadow of authority, I must convince
them that my power was greater than theirs.
Now the outward symbol, as well as the inward
basis of the chief's authority, was the collection of
taxes from the inhabitants of the hills. Their chief
source of revenue was a poll-tax, so much a head from
each adult person. This kind of tax has ever and
always been obnoxious to men in general, and in
the present instance the system of taxation was
rendered still more hateful, its inconveniences being
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 313
exaggerated by the ignorance of the British Govern-
ment as to local custom.
The three great chiefs above-named farmed the
revenue, each paying a lump sum to Government,
and collecting through sub-agents, to whom they
leased the right of collection in different villages.
Our officials, before the appointment of a separate
Superintendent of Hill Tracts, had recognised this
system of sub-letting, and accorded to it the legal
status of ownership ; hence arose another species of
slavery, for go where he would each hill man was
still the chattel of some petty sub-farmer of revenue,
and was bound to pay him head-money and do him
service, on pain of being sold up or otherwise
punished by order of the courts.
In meddling with this system I felt that I should
raise up a cloud of enemies, as who indeed does not
who dares to attack a “vested interest P” But
still, the system was radically wrong, and there
could be no substantial improvement in the well-
being of the people until some amendment was made
in this.
After long, consultation with the Commissioner,
we at length decided that the best thing to do was
for me to go to Calcutta, and personally lay the
whole matter before the Lieutenant-Governor, with
Whose sanction alone any radical alterations in the
existing revenue system could be made.
Accordingly I repaired to Calcutta, and submitted
to the head of the Bengal Government my scheme for
the administration, fiscal and political, of the Chitta-
gong Hill Tracts; this, although it involved some
immediate increase of expenditure, would, I felt sure,
314 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
promote in the long-run the welfare of the people,
and aid in developing the resources of the country.
While in Calcutta I stayed with my friend J 2
who, with his young wife, seemed as happy as
possible. His marriage, indeed, appeared to have
turned out well, although I was puzzled by it at the
time, as he had always been a cynic and scoffer at
things matrimonial. We passed a very pleasant time
together, recalling old scenes of the Mutiny, when
we had served as boys together ; and I left him
without any foreboding of the heavy trouble so near
at hand.
315
CHAPTER X.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG (continued).
1867. -
One can do without mankind, but not without a friend.”
Hill Proverb.
A GREAT sorrow overshadowed my life, at the
beginning of the year 1867—the loss of my dear
friend J–, under circumstances so painful to
myself that it left a scar, which the many years
since passed have failed altogether to obliterate.
Hardly had I returned to the Hills, after my trip
to Calcutta, when the news of a fresh Lushai in-
cursion into the Bohmong’s territory called me a
hundred miles away from my head-quarters, and
absorbed all my time and attention. Two villages
had been attacked, eleven persons killed, and thirty-
five carried away into slavery. The enemy, as usual,
came and went like a fox to a hen-roost, vanishing
before any news of their presence could reach me.
There was nothing to be done in the way of
retaliation, as I had neither men nor authority; but
I established a strong outpost, hoping thus to guard
against future outrage in that quarter.
On returning to my quarters at Chandraguna, I
316 A Fily ON THE WHEEL.
found that I had been favoured in my absence by
a visit of inspection from one Major B–, Deputy
Inspector-General of Police, who had been deputed
to overhaul my office, and report on my doings
generally. This officer had put up at my house,
and having completed his perquisitions, had departed
before my return. -
I smiled when I heard his name, for J–– and I
had often laughed over a ludicrous, but somewhat
cruel, practical joke we had played him, in a little
love affair of which we had been cognizant; but I
thought his visit of inspection very unusual and
sudden, as notice is always, in such cases, given
beforehand to the officer chiefly concerned.
However, I had nothing to conceal or to fear, and
I troubled myself little about the matter. How
very different would have been my feelings, had I
known then what I learnt afterwards, that poor
J–— had written to me, warning me that Major
B— was coming in no friendly spirit, to spy out
my doings, and bidding me put my house in order.
In my absence Major B–– had possessed himself
of this, my private letter, and forwarded it to the
Inspector-General, saying it had been enclosed to
him with an official return from my office.
But of all this I knew nothing, not even the
existence of such a letter, until One morning, a short
bitter note came from J–, saying that my care-
lessness had been the cause of his ruin, and bidding
me fare as well as I could with that weight on my
conscience. The following day came a telegram to
say he was dead, it was feared by his own act.
The shock was terrible. I racked my brain in
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 317
vain, trying to imagine how I could have been con-
cerned in this tragedy, until the following letter
enlightened me. *
The Inspector-General has asked me to send you a line about
poor J–’s sudden and sad end.
You will probably have received a letter from J himself,
telling you that his note to you had been placed in the hands
of the Inspector-General. In consequence it was arranged that
J—— should retire from his appointment as Personal Assistant
to the Inspector-General. He was, however, to remain in his
quarters until his resignation had been sent in, and his leave,
for which he proposed to apply, had appeared in orders.
On the evening of Friday last, J–— put his wife in her
carriage and sent her off to a ball, and after reading for an
hour or so he went to bed.
When Mrs. J returned, about 1 A.M., she found her hus-
band insensible from the effects of a strong dose of chloroform,
applied in a sponge-bag to his nose and mouth. Her cries
soon brought assistance, and medical aid was speedily available ;
but it was too late. J–— had taken some chloroform the
day before, as he was not feeling well, and was naturally much
depressed, but, on the earnest solicitation of his wife, had
promised not to resort to it again.
The Inspector-General is satisfied that the return of the
note, which has been the origin of all this trouble, was purely
accidental.
How could I think it accidental, knowing as I
did the bitter grudge B–– had harboured against
both J–— and myself for years past, and that he
would be glad to have a chance of retaliating on us.
I was full of bitterness and soreness of heart, and
strove hard to bring it home to him. I laid the
whole matter before the Commander-in-Chief, de-
manding an inquiry; but there was not evidence
enough to bring, the case to a court-martial, and it
was never satisfactorily cleared up, although privately
318 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
his conduct was condemned by all who knew him.
He, too, now is dead.
My poor friend's death haunted me like a shadow
by night and by day, Waking or sleeping; and I
threw myself into my work with renewed and
feverish zeal, striving to forget. But of course my
health suffered, and I had frequent attacks of fever,
with enlargement of the spleen, and but for the
kindness and care of my good Commissioner Y--
at Chittagong, who had me nursed and cared for
in his own house, and who strove to cheer me and
to win me back to my enthusiasm for my work
among the hill folk, I do not think I should have
pulled through.
They were the simplest, the most kindly folk,
these hill people; truthful, and capable of strong
attachments; having also a great appreciation of
straight and even-handed justice. I found them
ground down by ignorant, narrow-minded chiefs;
harassed by litigious, lying Bengali usurers, and
oppressed by the constant dread of Lushai or Shendú
raids.
Many of them were Buddhists, but the rest had
a sort of vague natural religion, a belief in spirits
of air and water, of hostile demons warring in storm
and sickness, but nothing to guide or help them in
their daily lives. They needed schools, they needed
religious teaching, they needed simple, upright
dealing, and protection for their lives and their
belongings. These needs I set myself to supply,
but the obstacles first to be overcome were by no
means insignificant.
To begin with, there was the hitherto supreme
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 319
power of the hereditary chiefs, who indeed paid
tribute to our Government, but who stood entirely
between us and the people. They were very jealous
of their authority, and I quickly recognised that I
must either gain their co-operation or set them
entirely aside, if I wished to reach the people. The
stick or the sugar-stick—for them the choice—but
by one or the other, or by both, I intended to rule.
Foremost among these chiefs ranked the Bohmong,
who ruled over the southern half of my district.
Buddhist by faith, Burmese by tongue, he oppressed
and tyrannized over the people at will; not stopping
even at murder, when he thought it necessary in
order to gain an object or confirm his power. He
acted with impunity, for who should bear witness
against So great a one P
Sometimes detailed accounts reached me of some
evil deed; but when I tried to call witnesses to prove
it, all would deny having any knowledge of the
occurrence, and I would hear afterwards that they
had been told that, if a word escaped them, they and
their families would be rooted out and driven away
in a night, while rumour would say it was simply
another Lushai raid.
I had no police worth the name to help me in
the detection and punishment of crime. The men
under me were simply a frontier guard, and of no
use whatever even in the simplest inquiry.
I tried first to conciliate the Bohmong and gain
his confidence, I visited him, talked with him, con-
sulted and argued with him, but in vain. He eluded
my visits as often as he could, and sent me presents,
which I declined, pleading our Government prohibi-
320 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
tion. When I did see him, he smiled and nodded
assent to all I said, but he did as little and hid as
much as he was able.
I could get no tangible proof of his evil-doing,
although it was known throughout the country; and
of course I could get no help or countenance from
the authorities without proof positive. But I pro-
mised myself that I would one day be even with this
old fox.
I had a small police post in the Bohmong's village
at Bundrabun, where he resided. This post, which
served to keep open communication between
head-quarters and the southern guard-posts, had
been established much against his will. I counted
on the police officer in charge of this post to give
me reliable information about the Bohmong's doings
and designs. I soon found, however, that I learnt
nothing of importance, while the chief seemed to
direct his plans with a singular knowledge or
prescience of my own movements, and even of my
intentions. .
At length I learnt that my policemen had been
suborned, and that not only my personal movements,
but also all letters and despatches to the southern
outposts, which passed through Bundrabun, were
submitted to the Bohmong, and systematically
opened, read, and re-sealed in his presence ; the
post-bag being carried by the police havildar direct
to his house. This, if proved, was a clear offence
against the law; and I laid my plans carefully to
bring it home to the offender.
Accordingly I one day detained the post-runner
until past midday, under pretext of having to send
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 321
an important dispatch, and then gave him, in his
bag among others, a large letter sealed conspicuously
and marked urgent, containing orders to my senior
jemadar in the south.
It was a long day's journey across country,
through the jungle, from my head-quarters at Chan-
draguna to Bundrabun, and I calculated that the
runner would reach the chief's village at nightfall.
The bag would be taken from him by the police
and brought to the Bohmong for his usual inspec-
tion, and, arriving so late, would, in all probability,
be left with him for the night. -
I kept my own counsel till nearly sundown, when
I summoned Fuzlah.
“Fuzlah, take four of the best men and get ready
a boat to cross the river.”
“Are we to be armed, Sahib P”
“Yes, carbines and twenty rounds of ammunition.
Light marching order. Take no food, but eat a
good meal before starting. We have to go all night.
Be ready in half an hour, and let all shut their
mouths.”
Fuzlah saluted and left me, and in less than an
hour later our little party was safely landed on the
other side of the river, and marching in the twilight
for Bundrabun.
It was a long and weary march. The path was
not very good, and the darkness became oppressive,
as the moon had not risen, and our way lay for the
most part through dense forest. We stumbled
along, splashing through swampy ground, or wading
through mud and water, as we crossed the bed
of some small stream. Once we made a detour,
21
322 . A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
to avoid a village where the post-runner was
usually relieved, and once I halted for an hour to
reSt.
It was about 3 o'clock in the morning when we
halted on the banks of the Sungu river, on the other
side of which, dark and silent, lay the sleeping
village of Bundrabun.
“Fuzlah, do you know where the ferryboat is?
It should be here.”
“No, Sahib. At nightfall it is always hauled up
on the land on the other side. Shall I shout and
wake the ferryman P”
“Be silent. Not a word above a whisper. One of
us must swim for the boat.”
Quickly one of the men divested himself of his
accoutrements and upper garments, and silently
swam away in the darkness.
We waited anxiously. Five minutes, ten minutes
—and no boat appeared. I could risk waiting no
longer, for the morning star had risen, and the
village would soon be stirring. So we all swam
across, making several journeys for clothing, arms,
and ammunition, which had to be carried on our
heads. We had just accomplished our last swim
when my first emissary appeared.
“I have been a long time, Sahib, but I could not
bring the boat, as the paddles had been removed,
and I was searching for them.”
“Hush | not a word. Forward ' "
We moved on swiftly and silently, with unshod
feet, to the police station.
“Go in, Fuzlah, and without noise bring out
the havildar, Warn him briefly that I know all,
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 323
and that his only hope lies in submission and full
confession. Order the others to remain quiet in the
house.”
Secret and summary action was necessary. Firstly,
because the havildar was a hill man, and he and his
relatives were subjects of the Bohmong; secondly,
because unless I carried out my plan Swiftly and
thoroughly the chief would frustrate all inquiry
by causing a timely disappearance of my witnesses.
Fuzlah reappeared shortly, bringing with him the
havildar, much agitated. I did not stop to ask
questions, but ordered Fuzlah to bring him with
us, and at once led the way to a gloomy thicket
hard by. Here we paused, and I deliberately
drew out my revolver, and, gazing sternly at the
havildar, I slowly cocked it and took aim at his
head.
The man fell down, caught hold of my feet, begging
for mercy, and confessed all he knew. The post-
bag was at the Bohmong’s, beside his head, with the
letters opened. The havildar had himself taken it
to the chief, and had been sent away when the
Bohmong found the large sealed letter marked
urgent. He saw the seal broken before he left.
This was enough to act upon.
“Jemadar Fuzlah, fall the men in. Fix bayonets,
left turn, quick march 1”
Dawn was breaking as we threaded our way
through the silent street of the big village towards
the chief's house. Heads were popped out here and
there, and inquiries made as to who we were and
what we wanted.
I led straight for the Bohmong’s house, swiftly
21 *
324 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and silently, then rushed up the ladder, leaving my
men at the foot, and so across the entrance platform
and into his sleeping-room. The bag was there
at his head, the letters open and scattered about
beside him. In a moment I had him and the bag
both out on the platform, where my men joined me.
It was a strange scene, lit up by the first rays of
the morning sun. The platform, with the astonished
chief, surrounded by my five policemen with fixed
bayonets, myself bare-legged, with pointed revolver,
clad in country home-spun, all wet and dripping,
muddy and torn, after our night's travel and swim
across the river. Below us a surging crowd of
muttering villagers, among whom some spears began
to show. We had the wall of the house against our
backs, so could not be surrounded.
Presently there was a stir and drawing back
among the crowd, and the chief's brother arrived,
puffing and blowing with the unusual haste he had
used, and with a big umbrella held over his head.
I briefly but audibly explained to him that it was
necessary for me to take away the Bohmong as my
prisoner to the guard-house, and that any attempt
at a rescue, or violence on the part of the people
would cause his death.
The crowd rolled back murmuring, and I con-
veyed my prize with all speed to the police guard-
house. Here, in the face of everybody, I proceeded
to try the case as a magistrate, formally recording
the evidence, and calling on the chief for his defence.
A great family council was forthwith held, and
the Bohmong humbled himself before me, making
submission, and promising that, if I would overlook
THE HIT,L TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 325
this offence, he would for the future be entirely
guided by my advice. But I was inexorable ; the
majesty of the law must be vindicated.
The culprit then pleaded that he had not himself
broken the seal, but his Dewan had opened the
Government letter. I took down this statement,
which was corroborated by the chief's brother.
“Fuzlah, arrest the Dewan.”
The Dewan, a near relative of the Bohmong's,
was therefore arrested, and a quarter of an hour later
was on his way down stream to Chittagong, closely
guarded, to await there my coming.
After this I relented somewhat, and presently we
came to an agreement. The Dewan was to be the
Scapegoat, the Bohmong consenting to bear witness
against his servant and to give him up to me for
punishment in the face of his people.
Further, the Bohmong himself being an old man,
would resign the administration of affairs into the
hands of his brother, and seek the rest and repose he
so much needed in a religious life.
After this I took boat to Chittagong, where I had
an interview with the Dewan, informing him that his
masters had sacrificed him to save themselves, and
pointing out that his only hope of my protection lay
in his making a full disclosure of all he knew. So I
completed my chain of evidence, and the overthrow
of my enemy was complete.
Not without cost, however ; and the price I paid
for my success was a bad attack of fever and ague,
brought on by the fatigue of the night march, the cold
swim across the river, with the subsequent excite-
ment, which prevented my drying my Wet clothes.
326 A Ffly ON THE WHEEL.
The new Bohmong was loyal to me, as he owed
me his kingdom and feared to lose it like his brother
if he offended. Thus matters were peaceably settled
in the south. ;
There remained to be dealt with the Rani Kalindi,
who ruled over the central portion of the Hill Tracts,
and the Mong Raja to the north. The latter poten-
tate had from the first evinced a friendly disposition,
and I apprehended no difficulty with him ; but the
Rani was an old widow woman, swayed and directed
by interested advisers, and her attitude remained
persistently hostile during the whole term of my
residence in the Hill Tracts.
The first attempt she made was in the Kutcherry,
or Law Court, sending up test cases and then appeal-
ing against my decisions, first to the Commissioner at
Chittagong and afterwards to the High Court at
Calcutta.
I was very careful, however, with my work, and
when doubtful always postponed decision till I could
refer to my friend the Commissioner, so that she
failed to catch me tripping in the performance of my
official duties.
Next a very harassing mode of attack was adopted,
and one much in favour in the East. Anonymous
petitions were sent to Calcutta, charging me with all
sorts of crimes, and were returned to me by the
Bengal Government for any reply or remark I might
wish to offer. This was sufficiently annoying, but I
had at first no difficulty in refuting groundless
accusations.
But constant dropping will, as all know, wear away
even a stone, and by persistent complaints an impres-
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 327
sion was gradually set up that something must
be wrong. The continual fire of anonymous letters
and petitions had been disregarded, but at length
the Lieutenant-Governor received a petition duly
signed by seven leading hill men, containing formal
charges against me of various sorts of injustice and
oppression.
On receipt of this the Lieutenant-Governor wrote
to the Commissioner at Chittagong, directing him to
proceed at once to my head-quarters, and make a
rigorous inquiry into the facts alleged in the petition
and into my administration generally.
I confess that I felt deeply hurt and mortified at
the time, and betook myself in high dudgeon to
Chittagong, there to await the result, and to show
by my absence that I had no wish to influence or
alarm those who desired to bear witness against me.
The Commissioner repaired to my head-quarters
and summoned before him the men whose names were
affixed to the petition ; but these testified that they
had made no complaint and signed no petition, and
that the writing of their names was a forgery. Many
counter petitions were put in to the Commissioner,
professing the entire contentment of the hill people
with my rule, and among these I was glad to hear
of one from the new Bohmong, Momphru, who now
reigned in his brother's stead, while the Mong Raja,
Keo-ja-syne, made a long journey in order personally
to request the Commissioner that I might not be
removed from the Hills.
The upshot of the matter was that the Commis-
sioner wrote to congratulate me on the result of his
inquiry, saying that he should report favourably to
328 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Government on the good work I was doing in the
Hill Tracts.
Yet another kind message I had from the Lushai
chief, Rutton Poia, who sent two karbaris to me with
the following curious invitation:—“The chiefs hear
that you are at enmity with the great Lord Sahib in
Calcutta. If this be the case, they invite you to
come into their country. Each of the chiefs will
give you a house from each of their villages, and men
will flock to you on account of your being proof
against bullets. Come to us, brother. You will be
a great chief.”
Truly a generous offer; and had the inquiry ended
otherwise than it did, I do not feel sure that I should
not have shaken off the dust of civilization and
accepted the offer.
As it was, however, I thanked the chiefs cordially
for their kindness, and assured them that there was
no enmity between me and the great Lord Sahib, but
on the contrary he had graciously been pleased to
approve my work and strengthen my hands. I
should, however, never forget the goodness of their
hearts towards me.
As a result of the inquiry I was promoted to a
higher grade, and also received a letter thanking
me for my services; and I vainly flattered myself
that I had done with the Rani's persecutions. But
having failed in her attack on my honour, she next
directly assailed my life.
I had attended the great Maha-muni fair, a gather-
ing of a religious character, which was ceremoniously
observed by the hill people every year. I was tired,
over-tired, in fact; and although I went to bed early
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 329
I could not sleep. I got up after a time to try and
light a pipe, but could find no matches, and my Ser-
vants were all away in their own quarters some
distance below my hill-top. The kutcherry, with its
treasure-chest, guarded by a sentry, was about two
hundred yards distant, and my bungalow was com-
pletely isolated. The weary hours dragged on slowly
as I lay tossing, trying to compel the sleep that would
not come. As I lay in bed I could see through the
open doorway, in clear weather, the sky-line of the
distant forest and the stars sparkling above; but this
night was dull, and the square frame of the door
leading from my sleeping-room into the verandah was
mistily outlined in grey, as the moon shone fitfully
through the clouds.
I had lost count of time as I lay drowsily looking
at this grey square, and wondering vaguely what
might be the round black knob which seemed to form
part of the door-jamb, when the appearance of a
second black knob close beside the first roused all my
faculties. In an instant I was vividly awake, for I
knew that the knobs represented two men silently
peering into the darkness of my chamber.
One thinks quickly in moments of extreme danger,
and I speedily decided what to do. Fortunately my
room was absolutely dark, and they could see nothing
of me. Grasping the loaded revolver which I always
kept under my pillow at night, I slid noiselessly out
of bed, on the side furthest from the window, and
watched cautiously.
There was a whispered conference, and the door-
Way was filled by the dark shapes of four men, their
Spears glinting in the faint moonlight. They were
330 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
evidently discussing who should enter first. At last
one came in and crept stealthily to the near side of
the bed. I heard the thud of his knife striking at
my empty place; and then I could stand it no longer,
but let drive at him with my pistol, and with a yell
jumped for the assassins.
There was a helter-skelter and rush as I discharged
my revolver after the cowardly ruffians; then the
guard came running up, and my servants appeared,
and there was great jabber and confusion. Someone
was wounded, for we found two spears thrown aside
and followed blood tracks into the dense jungle
behind my house; but they got clear off, and I never
discovered who had been concerned in the attack. I
heard enough to know that it was instigated by the
Rani, but not enough to bring the charge home to
her.
For some time afterwards I had a sentry in the
verandah of the house while I slept, until, by the
advice of my friend the Mong Raja, I turned my
bedroom into a holy place, where deeds of blood were
impossible, by enshrining there a fine image of Buddha
with which he presented me. This sacred object I
set up on a pedestal, and under its protection I slept
for the future in Safety.
It was by invitation of the Mong Raja that I had
visited the Maha-muni fair, which was a remarkable
gathering of its sort, both on religious and social
grounds, showing the hill folk in a favourable light.
The temple or shrine of Gautama Buddha was built
on neutral ground, at a place mid-way between the
hills and plains. At the annual festival thither
flocked the hill folk to worship, and crowds of Ben-
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 331
gali shopkeepers, with keen eyes to business, came to
dispose of such wares as were sure to attract the
fancy of the simple natives.
I arrived the day before the gathering and pitched
my tent in a mango-grove. The temple hard by
was a square, domed, whitewashed building, with a
door on each side, opening on to a corridor, which
ran round the entire building. In the centre was a
dark domed chamber, in which was set up a gigantic
gilt image of Gautama, full forty feet high, in a
sitting posture. Before the image burned a row of
Small oil lamps, and close by was a frame of bells;
these were jangled by any intending worshipper, to
give notice to the image of his presence and devotional
intent.
The Bengali traders arrived the night before the
festival, and hastily erected small booths of bamboo
matting, where early in the morning they spread out
their wares. Sweetmeat sellers were there, as at all
fairs in all countries ; stalls of copper and brass-
work; shops for the sale of flaring cloths and bright-
coloured kerchiefs of cheap cotton and silk fabric;
sham jewellery; pan, betel-nut, and tobacco, and
everything likely to please the hill folk, were spread
out in tempting abundance.
The pilgrims arrived generally by villages, each
community dressed in gala attire and preceded by a
drummer. The maidens were clad in home-spun
skirts of dark blue bordered with scarlet, and white
breast-cloths barred with chocolate and red, also of
home manufacture. They wore silver or coral chains
round their necks, and orchid blossoms stuck coquet-
tishly in the long hollow, truncated, silver cones
332 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
which most of them wore through the lobe of the
ear. The girls loved flowers, and the young men
would rise before dawn and go far into the woods to
seek the graceful sprays of white, lilac, or orange-
coloured orchid bloom, which was the favourite
adornment of their sweethearts.
Each party was in charge of one or two elders of
their people; but there were undoubtedly many more
young folk than old at the gathering. The girls of
each party kept together as they marched, and
laughed gaily as they came within sight of the glories
of the fair. -
Each party on arrival deposited their baskets under
some convenient tree, where they intended to take up
their abode during the festival; and then proceeded
at once to make obeisance before the great image of
Gautama in the shrine.
Afterwards came a stroll among the shops. There
are no shops in the hills, and the Bengali traders
drove a roaring trade. Great was the demand for
yellow candles and crackers for the night season,
when the fun grew fast and furious. Red thread,
strings of beads, cheap fiddles, snowy muslins, and
gay kerchiefs, all found a ready sale. A peep-show
with views of Delhi and Calcutta afforded infinite
delight; while an ourang-outang from the Straits,
exhibited as a wild man of the woods, proved a great
commercial success.
Sometimes a purchase would be negotiated re-
quiring a certain discretion and reserve, when the
presence of “those impudent lads” was eluded or
openly deprecated. Long meshes of black or dark
brown hair could be obtained by those whose locks
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 333
were scanty, and was worn plaited along with the
natural hair to augment its quantity. Those who
could not afford hair bought thick strands of plaited
silk or black mohair for a similar purpose. The
wearing of artificial hair seems a well nigh universal
custom. The Chinese lengthen their pig-tails in this
manner, while on the borders of Tibet the custom
prevails among both men and women. I remember
once hearing the remark made by a Tibetan on a
passing girl, “She is young ; she does not yet wear
deputy-hair.”
There seemed great freedom among the young
people at the fair, but all within the bounds of
decorum. Sweethearts wandered hand in hand,
stopping first at the sweetmeat stall, then at the
shop where was sold betel and pan. This last was
more important a purchase than might be guessed by
the uninitiated, for in the hills the presentation of the
innocent green pan-leaf with betel-nut and spices
inside, accompanied by a certain flower, is a declara-
tion of love. If the spice is placed in one corner,
with a peculiar turn of the leaf, it signifies “Come
away with me.” The addition by the girl of a touch
of turmeric outside conveys a negative ; while a piece
of charcoal thrust inside the leaf is tantamount to a
Scornful dismissal.
As the day wore on lovers became bolder, and the
mute pleading of the pan-leaf was discarded in favour
of voice and flute. The girls once more banded
themselves together and sang—
The hills stretch in long ranges,
In long ranges ordered by God.
The cockscomb and the marigold, O maidens, do not sow.
334 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
The hills stretch in long ranges,
Ranges driven by God’s hand.
The cockscomb and the marigold, even if you sow,
O maidens, do not wear them,
Or your hearts will die away;
As cockscomb and marigold wither, your hearts will pine
away.
Sad and plaintive was the air, but as it died away
the young men in chorus shouted back merrily—
A dweller on the mountain is the bumble-bee ;
He lives in a dead bamboo.
All alone lives the bumble-bee ;
A gay young bachelor is he, all alone on the hill side.
All give the “hoia” or hill “Jödel.” Then, with
preliminary trill, a solo begins, as some melancholy
swain would seek to sway his mistress' heart by
intoning a more doleful ditty.
A flock of birds I see flying,
But one bird is left alone,
All alone, sitting on a high tree.
A crowd of men I see paddling,
But one man sits alone,
All alone without a companion.
The singer pauses for a while in his song and rends
the air with the wailing of his flute. Then readjust-
ing his turban, and putting his hand behind his ear,
he again uplifts his voice in yet more touching
strains.
From afar I see the waters of the Kynsa river
Flowing white in the valley.
What good have I from gazing at its waters ?
Some other will bathe therein.
From afar off gazing I see a lovely maiden;
White and fair is she.
What good have I from gazing at her beauty P
Some other will obtain her love,
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 335
Thus song answered song, and the day wore on
till dusk, when all thronged to the corridor of the
temple; and all was heat and confusion as the crowd
circled round the shrine bearing each one a lighted
taper. All night long from dusk till dawn they
made carnival, letting off crackers, and trying to
blow out each other's candles. -
For three days the charivari continued almost with-
out intermission, till on the morning of the fourth
day signs of departure became manifest. One after
another the booths closed, as the lucky shopkeeper
who had sold all his wares made up his accounts,
and made ready for his journey home.
Outside the temple a number of yellow-robed
priests showed themselves, each sitting under the
shade of an enormous umbrella, stuck in the ground,
telling their beads or reading solemnly from some
palm-leaf manuscript. To them came the villagers,
as each community assembled, to receive a final
benediction before leaving the grove.
Beside each reverend father was dug a small hole
in the earth, into which each worshipper put an
offering in the shape of a silver or copper coin. Over
the hole was placed a small tripod formed by pieces
of fresh-split bamboo twined round with green leaves
and flowers. From the tripod extended a pure
white thread, which was passed round the shoulders
of the whole party seeking a blessing, and ter-
minated in the hands of the priest, who, with shaven
crown and yellow robe, stood in the centre of the
group.
Slowly the holy man pours water over the tripod as
he mutters a formula ; slowly he passes the thread
386 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
round the impatient group ; slowly he extends his
hands to pronounce the benediction.
“Hasten, my Lord Priest, the boat is waiting,”
exclaims some saucy young maiden, who is instantly
hushed and rebuked by her elders. So in turn each
party is blessed and dismissed, and quiet falls upon
the shrine for yet another year, while the priests
and their acolytes collect together the candle ends
and small forgotten pieces of property left by the
faithful.
It was a pleasant mirthful gathering, and I re-
flected much, as I returned to my own quarters, on
the loss or gain which civilization brings. These
people thought no shame of their human nature,
with its loves and passions, and yet in all simplicity
preserved their modesty and self-respect. I had
often heard of the vicious excesses and drunken
debauchery of Savage races, and for aught I know
this may be the case on the coast of Africa or New
Guinea ; but here in the Hill Tracts, throughout the
three days’ carnival I had not seen one drunken man
nor witnessed any discourtesy to a woman. They
seemed an honest kindly people, happy in their homes
and in their simple Buddhist faith, and I doubted
much if they had anything to gain from the introduc-
tion of European ideas. The Lushais and Shendús
were made of different stuff and needed very different
dealing with.
The wily Bengali múktears, or attorneys, were the
bane of the Hill Tracts, and I never relaxed in my
efforts to banish them from the country. Soon
after the fair I had the pleasure of finding good
cause for shipping the last three of them out of
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 337
my district. As a matter of course they petitioned
against me, both to the Commissioner and afterwards
to Government ; and in the report I was called on to
make in consequence, I did not spare them. I pointed
out how they lived on the ignorance and weakness of
the hill folk, stirring up strife and fomenting litiga-
tion ; how they strove to weaken the authority of
Government by inciting to appeals against my orders,
merely on grounds of legal quibbles and misrepresen-
tations. I also let it be publicly known that, if any
hill man thought a decision or order of mine was
wrong or unjust, I was content to have it referred
to the Commissioner ; but that I should consider as
a grave offence any trying to get the better of me
by legal subterfuge.
I found personal influence the only way of deal-
ing with these simple people. The legal code and
the Government were merely names without mean-
ing to them, too vague and too remote to influence
their daily life. The man they could see and hear,
whom they could please or displease, love or hate,
he was for the time being their chief and their king.
The crafty Bengalis took our laws and used them
as direct engines for oppression and extortion. If
the crop of a hill man failed, or he wished for money
to pay for the marriage of his daughter, he would
borrow from a Bengali money-lender twenty or thirty
rupees. This would be obligingly lent to him at the
rate of five per cent. a month, or sixty per cent. a
year. The hill men are honest, and would continue
to pay this heavy interest until, with much toil, they
had collected and were ready to pay off the principal
of the debt. - -
22
338 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Then what followed ? I will give a not uncommon
case. The hill man presents his money. “Very
good, my friend,” says the usurer. “See now, I
destroy your bond.” So saying, he tears up truly an
old bond, but not the hill man's bond. The poor
man can neither read nor write, but goes home happy
that the debt is paid and he is a free man again.
The Mahajun bides his time, and then appears in
court with his bond, and files a suit for debt against
the hill man, whom we will call Nilchunder, for
money borrowed with compound interest and costs,
and a summons is accordingly granted against the
said Nilchunder to appear and defend the suit.
On the day appointed for hearing the case, the
usurer lies in wait for the arrival of Nilchunder in
his boat ; then, hastening to greet him with effusion,
and with a face and voice full of concern, says, “My
dear friend, how truly I grieve that through an error
you have had this trouble and this unnecessary
journey. There is no need for you to appear. Give
me your summons, and I will put matters right with
the Sahib, while you go and eat and drink at my
house.”
So the poor fly goes to eat and drink, while the
wily spider goes to court, where the case is duly
called, and Nilchunder not appearing, a decree ea.
parte is given for the whole amount sued for.
The Mahajun hospitably entertains his victim and
speeds his homeward departure, giving no word or
sign of his business till the time for appeal has gone
by and the decree is made absolute. Then the
storm bursts on the head of the luckless hill man,
who finds himself loaded with an overwhelming debt,
.*
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 339
which he has never incurred, and can never hope to
discharge ; and so he becomes practically the
Mahajun's slave for the term of his natural life.
The above is no fancy sketch. I have known even
worse cases than this. And I was, indeed, happy
when the Government listened to my urgent appeal
and sanctioned the following proposals :—
“No middle-man or attorney to be allowed to
act in hill cases.
“No stamps to be required in certain cases, thus
reducing the price of justice (i.e. costs) to a minimum.
“The legal interest recoverable on debt not to
exceed 12 per cent. per annum, and a limit of time
to be set beyond which no debt could be recovered.”
I felt this was real progress, making the English
court of justice not only attainable but attractive;
no longer to be regarded by the hill people as a great
engine of oppression, but rather as a shield and
bulwark between them and injustice or extortion.
The dwellers in the Hill Tracts of Chittagong
might roughly be classed under two headings: the
Khyoung-tha, or children of the river; and the Toung-
tha, or children of the hill.
The former, as their name signifies, lived near the
river, and were experts in water-craft. They were
for the most part of Arracanese descent and spoke
that language, of which Burmese is a modern off-
shoot. They followed the Buddhist religion and
Customs.
The Toung-tha shunned and feared the river, and,
like the Shendús, could not sail a boat. I consider
them to be autocthenous tribes, springing originally
from the great Singpho horde, and speaking cognate
22 *
340 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
dialects of the same speech. They were less nume-
rous than the Khyoung-tha, and numbered about
13,000 souls, of whom 5,000 were Bunjogis, Pan-
khos and Mros, under the Bohmong’s protection, and
4,000 Tipras under the Mong Raja. The Khyoung-
tha comprised about 36,000 Mughs under the Boh-
mong, 28,000 Chakmas who acknowledged the Rani
Ralindi as chief, and the Mong Raja's clan of perhaps
3,000 people.
The tribute or head-money paid to the chiefs was
from four to eight rupees yearly for each family,
according to the number of adults. Unmarried men,
priests, and widows were exempt from this tax.
Every adult was also liable to be called upon to
work for the chief gratuitously three days in the
year, and an offering of firstfruits was expected
from the head of each family.
Each village had its Roaja or head-man, who was
chosen, as a rule, by his fellow-villagers as their
representative. This Roaja collected the poll-tax,
but was himself exempt from paying it; he decided
all petty disputes and cases which were not suffi-
ciently important to be taken to the chief; and on
him devolved the responsibility of carrying out all
executive orders. The title “Roaja” comes from
“roa,” a village, and “tcha” or “ja,” to eat: there-
fore “roa-ja” would be “the man who eats (or lives
by) the village.”
Although nominally Buddhists, I found that the
Khyoung-tha also observed the nature-worship, which
was the religion of the wilder Toung-tha-bowing
and making Sacrifice to the spirits of wood and
stream. But in every village the Buddhist “khiong,”
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 341
or temple, was to be found, built of bamboo and mats
in the smaller villages, and of solid planks and teak
timber posts in the larger communities. Inside
was an image of Gautama, made of alabaster or gilt
wood, in front of which were placed the daily offer-
ings of fruit and flowers, the worshippers removing
their turbans, knocking their foreheads on the ground,
and making reverential genuflections.
On the walls of the temple hung a number of
small black boards, the tablets on which the village
boys are taught to read and write, should the priest
be sufficiently instructed himself to impart this know-
ledge.
Anyone may become a priest; but I did not find
that the profession was a popular one among these
simple hill folk. Many a one shaved his head and put
on the yellow robe for a time; but permanently to live
on alms, to profess celibacy, and forego all merriment
and secular gratification, did not suit their tempera-
ment, as the Buddhist priest takes his religion very
much in earnest.
The raised platform in front of the Khiong is the
general place of evening resort, whither the elders of
the community repair to smoke together and chat,
while on the smooth swept plot of ground below
them the boys play at their favourite game of “kon-
yon.” The konyons are large flat disc-like nuts, in
colour resembling horse-chesnuts. One nut is set on
edge, and to project his konyon catapult-fashion with
the middle finger of the left hand, and triumphantly
to “nick” the adversary, causes unmixed joy to the
player's heart.
Every year before the cultivating season com-
342 A FLY on THE WHEEL.
mences, the ceremony of “shiang pruhpo ’’ (which
corresponds to our confirmation) takes place. The
boys of the village on attaining the age of eight or
nine years are clad in yellow garments, and, with
shaven heads, sit in a circle before the priest. In
front of each boy is a small oil-lamp burning, which
is kept trimmed and bright by the sponsor, or nearest
male relative, who attends, each on his postulant.
Reverently the boys join their hands, bow their fore-
heads to the ground, and make the responses after
the holy father professing their faith. When the
ceremony is concluded, they remain for seven days
in the temple, dressing and living like priests; during
this time are supposed to be engaged in religious
meditation, and indulging in no frivolous pastimes.
Marriages are contracted early, but never before
the age of seventeen. The young man chooses a girl
he would like to marry, and if his parents concur, an
envoy is sent to the girl’s family. The ambassador
arrives by boat, and calls aloud saluting the inmates
of the house, “Oga-tsal A boat has come to your
landing-place. May it be fastened P”
The girl’s parents generally have a shrewd notion
of what is coming, and if they are favourably inclined
the envoy is requested to make fast his boat and enter
the house. As he goes in he asks, “Are the supports
of the house firm P” If the answer returned is, “The
house is old; its supports are weak,” he knows that
there are difficulties to be overcome. The entrails of
a fowl are then examined, and eggs are broken for
omens. Dreams are also anxiously looked for by the
female relatives of both parties, and are interpreted
according to recognised formulae. An astrologer may
THE HIf,L TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 343
be called in, by whose aid the stars are consulted,
and a favourable day is chosen for the wedding.
Invitations are issued by sending a letter accom-
panied by a small gift. To send a notification of the
ceremony without sending a gift would be regarded
as most mean and unworthy.
When the marriage-feast is prepared, pigs and fowls
are slaughtered, vegetables and rice are cooked in
various ways, and bottles of fiery “arak,” or rice
spirit, are made ready by the dozen. -
On the day appointed the bridegroom arrives at
the bride's village, with a numerous following and
much noise. The bride's relations bar his entrance
with crossed bamboos, and over this barrier he must
drink a cup of spirits and pay a forfeit before he
is allowed to proceed. Should there be many rela-
tives the way will be thus barred three or four
times before he reaches the house of his betrothed.
Then the ceremony is performed. A new-spun
cotton thread is wound round the man and girl.
A priest mumbles some holy sentences, and, with
crossed hands full of cooked rice, administers alter-
nate mouthfuls to bridegroom and bride. In the pre-
sence of all their friends and neighbours they take
each other for better or for worse, the little finger of
the man's right hand being crooked with the woman's
left. Then the new husband and wife bow down and
make reverence before their elders, knocking their
foreheads on the ground. They are then seated
side by side, and the nearest relatives knot their
garments together, and all present place before them
goodwill offerings and presents.
Divorce is uncommon among these people; but in
344 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
cases of infidelity or incompatibility of temper the
chiefs have power to dissolve marriage.
I remember well the first divorce case that came
under my notice. It occurred while I was on a
visit to the Mong Raja, with whom and with whose
family I formed ties of sincere and mutual esteem
and friendship.
I was sitting with the Raja on the raised platform
in front of his house, drinking tea in the cool of the
evening. Suddenly our peaceful, silent smoking
was disturbed by a young and very pretty girl,
with flowers in her hair and silver ornaments on
neck and arms, who rushed up the ladder and threw
herself at the Raja's feet in a passion of tears.
After her ascended slowly, one by one, a number
of villagers wrapped in their long home-spun mantles,
who quietly sat down on the platform to the right
and left of the chief. The Raja smoked on silently,
until the woman’s sobs had grown somewhat less
violent, when he remarked quietly, “Weeping is
good for women.”
A few more puffs of fragrant tobacco, and as the
sobbing still continued, he added with solemnity,
“Three conditions are to be avoided. First, not to
be able to weep ; second, to weep without knowing
for why ; third, to weep too much.”
The last condition was pronounced with impressive
distinctness, and an assenting murmur went round
the assembly. The girl raised her head.
“My father! I cannot live with Tawngey. I hate
him | ?”
“What has he done P Has he beaten you ?”
“No ; he has not beaten me. That I should not
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 345
have minded. He suspects me. He watches me,
and I will not endure it. I demand to be divorced.
Oh, my father, be it on your head ”
“Tawngey, come forward, thou son of foolishness
What is this I hear 2 ”
Tawngey appeared, slinking shamefacedly from
the depths of the crowd. First making a lowly
obeisance, he sat down before the chief.
“My lord,” said Tawngey, “I saw her flirting
with——” - -
“It is false—it is false ! ” vehemently cried the
girl, dashing away her tears. “I went with the
other girls to draw water at the stream, and Adui's
sweetheart Pawthee came and began laughing, and
so we splashed him with the water. Then this
man ’’ (pointing with concentrated scorn at the
wretched Tawngey) “this man was spying behind
a tree, and he came and dragged me by the arm
and abused me before them all. I have never
suffered such shame. Release me, O my father
I will not live with him.”
Here she again prostrated herself at the Raja's
feet. A dead silence ensued, broken only by the
girl’s sobs. Tawngey looked as though he wished
the earth would swallow him, but he said not a word.
Suddenly the Raja spoke again and gave orders.
“O you and you” (naming two or three elders
among the spectators) “take away these two wicked
ones, who disobey the holy law. Strip them of all
their clothes, save one cloth only to the woman,
and shut them up together in the great empty
guest-house. In the morning I will hear them
again. Enough I have spoken.” -
346 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
So the young couple were hustled off, and shut
up in a bare empty house, with but one garment
between them. The night was very cold, and as I
pulled my thick wadded quilt over my shoulders
before going to sleep, I admired the shrewd wisdom
of the Raja.
In the morning, when their clothes were handed
in to them, and the door was opened to conduct
them before the chief, they quietly slipped away
hand in hand, and departed peaceably to their own
abode.
All love stories did not end so happily as this
one, unfortunately, and a case of murder that came
before me disclosed a genuine tragedy.
One Bupia, a young man of the Chakma tribe,
loved a girl of his own village whose name was
Shoniamala. Her mother was dead, and she lived
with her father and brother. This last was named
Hiradhan. Bupia loved the girl: they had known
each other from childhood, and he followed her every-
where, feeling happiness only in her society, and
rendering her the hundred little services which a
lover might do — filling her water-bamboos at the
stream, helping her at “juming” time, and when she
went to gather fire-wood. But he was poor, and
could not give the forty rupees which Shoniamala's
father demanded for his daughter's hand.
For two years Bupia tried vainly to get together
this money ; but ill-luck attended his efforts, and
at last he asked the girl to elope with him. Poor
young things I will give the deposition made to
me by the brother Hiradhan, to show the result of
their rashness.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 347
“Last Friday, when I came home from work, my
father asked me, saying, ‘Where is your sister 2
She went forth to fetch water from the stream, but
has not yet returned, although the time is long
since. See also where is that fellow Bupia, who
always follows her about. He may know where she
is. Or if he is also gone, then he has taken her
away.'
“So I went and sought for her by the stream,
but she was not there ; and I sought for Bupia,
but he was not to be found. So I was full of
anger, and called together some young men, my
friends, and together we went off in search of my
sister. * -
“We went fast but silently through the forest,
and in the valley below we saw them. Bupia went
first, and my sister followed holding his hand, and
they were laughing together and did not hear us.
Then I became enraged, and ran at Bupia and cut at
him with my ‘dao.’ He leaped swiftly aside, and
the blow fell on my sister, and the blow cut her
through the side. She said only, “Oh brother l’
and then fell dead. Then I was frightened and ran
away.”
It is customary in elopements for the young men
of the village to go in pursuit of runaway couples.
If they are caught, the girl is asked if she leaves her
home voluntarily, and if so, the matter is settled by
surety being taken for the payment of the money
asked by the father, or less, if it is held to be
excessive. If the lover has no means, and is thought
to have behaved in an underhand and dishonourable
manner, he is sometimes beaten ; but the murder
348 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
committed by Hiradhan was quite beyond custom,
and because he was seized by an ungovernable fit of
rage. He was hanged for the crime.
Under the new rules the people began to have
much more frequent recourse to my court, and all
manner of cases came up for decision. In questions
of social matters, such as divorce or infringement of
local customs, I always referred the cases to a
village jury ; but when they came under the penal
code I had to decide myself.
Juming disputes often arose, one village against
another, both desiring to jum the same tract of
jungle, and these cases were very troublesome to deal
with. The juming season commences about the
middle of May, and the air is then darkened by
the smoke from the numerous clearings.
This appellation of “juming ” is given to the
system of cultivation which is universally followed
by all hill tribes in India, from the Himalayas to the
furthest point of Siam. A suitable spot is selected,
by choice on the breezy shoulder of some hill; the
undergrowth is cut and the smaller trees felled, the
large forest trees being left standing, on account of
the labour required to cut them down. A spot
covered with a growth of bamboo is considered the
best, as the bamboo ash is a good fertiliser, and the
ground is easily cleared.
When all is cut, the mass is left to dry in the
sun, and then heaped up and fired. The villagers
stand round the clearing with long bamboo sticks to
beat back the flames and prevent them spreading
to the forest. But if a high wind comes, their
efforts are occasionally vain, and then is to be seen
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 349
that grandest and most awful of all spectacles—a
forest fire.
When the firing of the débris is successfully
accomplished, the larger logs and pieces of wood
are dragged to the side to make a fence against the
raids of wild animals. Nothing more is done till
the rains set in, when cultivation proper begins. As
soon as the sky is seen to grow black with clouds,
every village is left empty, and young and old, men,
women, and children, may be seen climbing up-hill
to the jums. Each one carries a dao, and a small
bamboo basket slung at the hip, which contains a
mixture of the seeds of rice, cotton, maize, and
cucumber. '.
Before long comes the muttering of the thunder
and the welcome patter of the first drops of rain.
A moist coolness strikes upon the skin, and with a
sudden swoop the rushing rain-wind flutters leaves
and garments, whilst from every lusty throat rings
out, clear and light, again and again, the gay
“Hoia 1" or hill-call.
To work, to work | Welcome is the wetting.
It is esteemed a bad omen not to be thoroughly
soaked on the day of sowing the seed. This sowing
is a simple process. First a hasty dig with the
square end of the dao, then a handful of mixed seed
is placed in the hole, and the earth thrown over.
When the sowing is completed, house or rather
hut-building is the next care. The materials have
previously been collected and laid ready, and until
the harvest has been garnered each family will live
on its jum, weeding the young crops by day, and
defending them by night from the beasts that
350 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
would fain come to feed on the fresh-springing green
tops.
The dao is the national weapon, and serves all
purposes, both in-doors and out, from peeling fruit
and vegetables to building a house or digging a field,
with equal ease. It is simply a broad, pointless knife,
about eighteen inches long, square and flat at the end
and narrow at the haft ; it has a wooden handle six
inches in length, and is worn without a scabbard.
The fighting dao is similar in shape, but longer,
and usually worn with a sheath. Like the agri-
cultural weapon, it follows a strange obtuse curve,
which gives it a somewhat hump-backed appearance.
In both the blade is sharpened on one side only, so
that two cuts only can be given—one from the right
shoulder down to the left foot, the other from the
left foot up to the right shoulder. In the unskilled
hands of a European the weapon is apt to turn
round, often inflicting serious wounds on the striker;
but used by a hill man, it deals a stroke of wonderful
power.
The jum-house is built entirely of bamboo, the
hearth being ingeniously and simply formed by
binding together four rough logs in a hollow square,
which is filled up with earth well beaten down, and
smoothed over with clay. On this a fire is at once
kindled, and an offering made to the spirit of the
place, whose favour and protection are sought for
the coming harvest-time, and for the well-being of
the cultivators.
The fire is kindled by means of a fire-stick, or
piece of bamboo a foot long split in halves. A nick
of one-eighth of an inch is cut in the silicious outer
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 351
cuticle of the bamboo. This cut is deepest in the
centre, just piercing through to the inner part of
the wood. A slip of the flexible outer covering,
about two feet long, is fitted to the exact size of
the nick, and drawn backwards and forwards rapidly
in the groove by the operator with ever-increasing
velocity, until Smoke shows itself, and a sort of
incandescent dust collects inside the fire-stick. This
dust is carefully placed among chips and dry moss,
and blown upon until it is nursed gently into a flame.
This somewhat tedious method of fire-kindling was
nearly discarded before I left the Hills in favour
of Swedish matches, and doubtless will soon be a
custom of the past.
The seeds in the jum rapidly put forth their fruit
and ripen for harvest. First the maize comes to
maturity in July ; then melons and cucumbers
ripen, and finally, in September, rice and cotton
are harvested. The rice is at once beaten from the
ear on a threshing-floor in the jum, and is then
packed in straw, and carried down to be stored in
the village granary.
The crop is usually good, but the method is a
very wasteful one. Putting aside the loss of trees,
which is great, the land once jumed must lie fallow
for eight years, in order that the undergrowth may
yield the necessary amount of ashes for fertilising.
Thus it happens that, when all the land in the
vicinity of a village has been exhausted by juming,
the whole community has to migrate to a fresh
place ; and to this necessity may be traceable the
impermanence of all hill-dwellings and the restless
nature of the people.
352 - A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Houses on the hills are invariably constructed of
bamboo, with centre-posts of unhewn timber. The
walls and floors are of bamboo matting ; the roof
and framework of bamboo stems, and the thatch
itself is often composed of bamboo leaves and
twigs, although for this purpose the broad leaf of
the “krük patur,” a species of dwarf palm, is
deemed preferable. The whole structure is tied
together by cordage of split cane, not a nail or
piece of metal being employed.
It is difficult to over-estimate the importance of
the bamboo in the domestic economy of the hills.
It is used for pipe-bowls, for fish-traps, for torches,
for baskets, for drinking-cups, platters, and pillows,
for ladders, for looms, for umbrellas, for a hundred
purposes, mats to sit and sleep on, and sticks
wherewith to cudgel an adversary. It is the veritable
staff of life to the hill man; and one tribe, the Riang
Tipras, have gone further still, for “thereof he maketh
him a god, and falleth down and worshippeth it.”
353
CHAPTER XI.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG (continued).
1867–68.
“WHY do the Khyoung-tha wear their hair like
women,” I asked, “in a coil at the nape of the
neck 2 ** .
I was on a visit to the new Bohmong, Momphru,
who reigned peaceably in his brother's stead at Bun-
drabun, and was my most devoted friend. .
“My tribe is from Arracan,” he replied. “Long
ago, before the time of the English Sahibs, when the
Moghuls ruled in Chittagong, my ancestors lived on
the Koladan river and owed allegiance to the King of
Arracan. Now, the King of Burmah had a quarrel
with the King of Arracan, and called together all the
wise men to consult them how he best might subdue
his enemy. Then one skilled in magic art rose up
and said, ‘ I alone will go to the King of Arracan
and will subdue him, if so it be ordered.’ And
the King of Burmah made answer, “It is ordered.’
So the wise man went alone to Arracan, and gave
out that he was a fugitive before the face of the
King of Burmah, because that cruel monarch
had ordered him to turn all the houses of Burmah
into gold and he had refused to do so. “I could
23
3.54 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
have done it easily,’ he added, “but the King
was greedy and cruel, and I would not do it for
his order.” When the King of Arracan heard this,
he made much of the wise man, and assigned to him
a house and slaves, and gave him an allowance for his
daily subsistence and greatly favoured him. Now
the wise man gained great influence over the King of
Arracan, by flattering him and promising to make
him invincible in war, both him and also his people.
“‘Let us begin with the city,” said the King.
‘First make my royal dwelling-place invulnerable.’
“‘That is most just,” replied the wise man; ‘for
how should you go forth to conquer, or make great
adventures, save from a prosperous and secure city.
But your walls, O King, have been constructed
without reference to the laws of magic art. They
must be levelled and then rebuilt, when I will deposit
a powerful charm at each of the four corners.”
“So the King ordered that it should be done even
as the wise man said. So the strong walls were
demolished, and he performed incantations at the four
cardinal points, and the charm was so strong that the
hearts of the people turned to water and cowardice
prevailed. Then he filed the King's teeth, and
changed the shape of the people's spoons, and ordered
every man to wear his hair knotted in the nape of the
neck; there was no end to the malicious things which
he did.
“At last he proclaimed that he was going to per-
form a solemn incantation, so that the walls should be
rebuilt by magic. And for this purpose he must shut
himself up in his house, and none must disturb his
meditations until he should give them leave. Then
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 355
he went into his house, and put rice in a pot and
sprinkled it with water until it sprouted, and in the
night time he fled away to his master the King of
Burmah.
“Day by day the King of Arracan sent to inquire
for his friend the wise man, on whose advice he had
come to lean in all things, and day by day grew more
disquieted when the answer came back, ‘The doors
are shut.” At last, he called his guards, and they broke
open the door and came and told the King, ‘Lo! my
lord, we found no one, and the wise man must have
been personated by an evil spirit, for the rice was
sprouting in the pot ; no man hath eaten thereof for
many days.”
“And even while the King stood astonished, won-
dering at these things, there came a shout in his ears,
for the King of Burmah had arrived; and he slew the
King of Arracan, destroying his city, and carrying
his family away into captivity. And the men of his
tribe, who were my forefathers, fled away into these
hills ; and it is owing to that magician's wicked
incantations that our young men are not so brave as
others are, and we must still wear our hair knotted,
like women, in the nape of the neck.”
“This is, indeed, strange,” I replied; “but where-
fore not break the charm by cutting short your hair
even as mine is short P You must find long hair
troublesome to keep clean.”
“Our tribe has never cut its hair, Sahib ; and that
we are troubled by lice in our hair is also due to that
cursed magician. One day, shortly after his arrival
in Arracan, the King's head began to itch con-
sumedly, and he called his chief wife, saying, “My
23 *
356 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
life! bring hither thy comb, for my head feels as if
a ground dog (jackal) were burrowing therein.' So
the Queen took the comb and combed the King's
head, and after some search she found a small insect,
such as never before had been seen in Arracan.
“Then the King sent for his chief boatman, for
the prime minister, and for the Queen's head waiting-
woman, and they all inspected the insect; but none of
them had seen its like before. So the doctors and
astrologers were called, and they cast its horoscope;
but the stars were silent, and it was pronounced to
be not a native of Arracan.
“The King then caused a golden box to be made,
in which the insect was shut up and hung at the head
of the ladder leading to the royal palace, so that
all might see it; and the King made a proclamation
that whosoever should satisfactorily explain the
nature and origin of this noxious creature should
have the hand of the King's daughter in marriage.
“The Burmese magician came and said, ‘Truly I
can call someone who will explain this mystery.” So
he called a Rakus, one of those horrible ogres who
roam on the other side of the wall which surrounds
the world, which will never be thrown down till the
last day; and the Rakus took the form of a hand-
some young man and presented himself before the
King.
“‘This insect is called thyn,’ O King. ‘It comes
from Burmah. It inhabits the heads of Bengali
traders who go between Burmah and Chittagong.’
“Then the King caused inquiry to be made, and
found that a Bengali trader had come with the
magician from Burmah.
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 357
“‘Seize and search that merchant,’ commanded
the King ; and search being made, many similar
creatures were found upon him, and he was bound
and cast into a den of serpents, while the Princess
was married to the ogre.
“After a few days the Rakus besought the King's
permission to take his wife and depart to his own
country. So they set forth, the Princess being
richly provided with silver and gold, and also ac-
companied by a guard of honour.
“Now the Rakus did not care for silver and gold.
He longed for human flesh, and it was many days
since he had tasted any and he was very hungry.
Each day when they halted he would go for a stroll
in the jungle, accompanied by one or two of the
guard, and each evening he returned alone, saying
his companions had been lost or devoured by wild
beasts.
“At length, all the guard were devoured but
two ; and the poor Princess, having observed what
had passed, became filled with fear. So when the
last two men went into the woods with her hus-
band she secretly followed them and witnessed their
unhappy end. Swiftly she fled back again in an
agony of fear, and soon the steps of the cursed
Rakus were heard returning alone. She knew her
turn would come next. Falling on her knees before
a small image which her mother had given her, she
prayed, “O sacred Buddha' if thy servant has
been chaste and observant of her religious duties,
grant that this sacred lamp from my father's kingdom
may encircle and protect me.’
“In a moment, just as the Rakus was entering the
358 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
tent, the Princess became small and was contained in
the lamp. Wainly the Rakus clawed at it with his
cruel bloodstained fingers, and hammered it with
stones, until in a rage he tossed it into the river
which ran hard by, and departed howling to his own
place.
“Now this river ran close by the village of my
forefathers, and towards evening a young prince, an
ancestor of my own, came to fish with a casting-
net, and at the very first haul he brought up the
lamp.
“‘This will do very well for my temple,’ said he,
for it was a valuable lamp. So he took it home and
laid it beside his head when he went to sleep. And
in the night the Princess came out of the lamp and
swept the house, arranging everything as a good wife
should, after which she re-entered the lamp. And
when the Prince awoke he was surprised to find that
his room had been tended and swept. And this same
thing happened for a second and a third night, and
the Prince could not understand how it might be.
He therefore thrust a needle under his thumb-nail,
in order that the pain might keep him awake and
he should see what fairy served him. About mid-
night the Princess stepped out of the lamp and began
to busy herself with household cares; quickly he
seized her and held her that she should not return to
the lamp; and they were married and lived happily
ever after. But the lice brought by the wicked
magician's follower increased and multiplied, and
fastened on our heads, even as if we had been worth-
less Bengalis ; and never afterwards could they be
banished from our land.”
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 359
My visit to the Bohmong at Bundrabun having
ended satisfactorily, I bethought myself of a visit of
thanks which I owed to the Mong Raja, who had
given me the guardian image of my bed-chamber,
and who wished to entrust to me the care and edu-
cation of his son. I went the whole way, some thirty-
five miles, walking barefoot, and wearing the dress
of the hill folk.
On reaching Maniksari, the chief's village, I was
lodged in a large room in the Raja's own house,
which was ordinarily used by him as a place of
assembly or to transact business in. This was a
mark of great and special favour, as no Englishman
had hitherto been thus admitted into family intimacy,
and on my previous visit I had lived in a small tent.
As far as possible I adopted the dress and customs
of the country on this and similar occasions, with a
ceremonial garb for the assemblies and evening
gatherings, consisting of a rich crimson silk waist-
cloth, Snowy white cambric over-shirt, and a turban
of white silk with a flower stuck in it, sitting on a
mat bare-foot and cross-legged.
Some of the customs were not altogether delightful,
and my resolution to conform was sometimes sorely
tried. On the present occasion, being an honoured
guest, my dinner was prepared under the Rani's own
Supervision, and when it was served she herself
pressed me to eat, and even selected and offered me
with her own slender fingers certain specially choice
and delicate morsels.
I had courageously consumed cane tops, bamboo
shoots, with divers unknown comestibles, when my
hostess appeared, smiling with hospitable intent, and
360 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
bearing in her hand a small brass cup, which she
placed before me. It contained four large white
grubs, delicately fried in oil, and one of these she
kindly took between finger and thumb and offered to
my shuddering lips. I forced a somewhat ghastly
smile of thanks, and bolted the creature ; but while
endeavouring to assure her of my appreciation, out-
raged humanity rebelled, and I retired hastily, to
save my reputation for good manners. These large
grubs, or maggots, are found under the bark of
decaying trees, and are esteemed a great delicacy.
At the Raja's request I had agreed that his young
son, Narabadi, should come and live with me, and
that I would superintend his education, and treat
him as my own son. I left Maniksari, taking the
boy with me, and marched to the river Huldah, a
tributary of the Karna-phuli. Here my boat was
waiting for me, and embarking, we rowed slowly
down to the greater river.
The evening was lovely, and I lay on a mat on
the roof of the boat, smoking and talking to Nara-
badi, and enjoying the coolness, and beauty of the
scene around us. My bearer Sonarutton brought
me a piece of live charcoal for my pipe, and in doing
so looked up at the sky with an exclamation ; and
then, removing his turban, he made a lowly salu-
tation.
“What is it P” I asked.
“It is the new moon, Sahib. One must always
salute the new moon if one wishes for good luck.”
It was curious to find here also the old super-
stition among this primitive people. I looked up
and saw the faint silver crescent outlined against the
THE HIf, L TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 361
turquoise-blue of the evening sky, and wondered
what I should wish for. I had power, position, money
enough for my needs, and influence sufficient to carry
out the work to which I had set hand and heart.
But health—ah, there was the rub So I saluted my
lady moon, and wished most earnestly that I might
have health and strength for the task I had before me.
I had to go down the river to Akyab to see after
clerks for my office. The Bengali baboos having all
resigned when they found the petitions and com-
plaints against me had failed in their ends, I had
obtained permission to go to Akyab in search of
good Burmese clerks, as, thanks to the English
educational system, many were to be found there.
I also intended to visit and consult with my con-
frère, the Superintendent of the Arracan Hill Tribes,
and to arrange if possible to unite our chain of fron-
tier posts, and so get an effective police patrol without
break along the entire frontier.
I went by the coasting steamer from Chittagong,
and paid a most pleasant and successful visit to
Akyab, meeting many old acquaintances, and among
them my comrade Major M , and his little dog,
which we were so near eating in the Shendú country.
Having satisfactorily arranged business matters and
engaged my clerks, I determined to walk back to
Chittagong along the coast.
The rains were at their height, and as there were
rivers and swamps on the way, I determined to do
the journey native fashion, barefoot. I was quite
inured to this, the perfection of progress in a wild
country without roads, and the freedom and sure-
footedness I had acquired by the absence of heavy
362 A FLY on THE wheel.
English boots amply repaid me for the pain I had
at first endured before my feet got hardened.
I was accompanied by Narabadi, the Mong Raja's
son, and my slave boy Sonarutton, with one other
servant. Our road lay chiefly by the sea-coast, along
the white sands, which were fringed for miles by one
grand continuous line or border of lofty casuarina
trees.
At night we found lodging in native huts; but the
daily march was arduous in the extreme, the mono-
tonous flat smoothness of the sands stretching for
miles and miles without any break, after the pleasing
undulating variety of our hill travelling, made the
feet ache terribly. By the time I reached Cox's
Bazaar, after a three days' march of over forty miles,
my feet were so swollen, and my skin where it had
been exposed was so burnt and blistered by the heat,
that I was heartily glad to hire a native boat and
make the rest of the way to Chittagong by water.
On returning to Chandraguna, I was pleasantly
surprised to find two large boxes with presents and
supplies from England. Great was the excitement
among my hill friends, and quite a crowd assembled
at my house to see the opening of these mysterious
cases, each article as it was extracted eliciting rounds
of applause and exclamations of wonderment. I
promptly opened two or three bottles of milk-punch,
and we all drank the health of my mother who had
sent out these good things.
The Chakma Dewan, Ishan Chunder, who was
present, carried off triumphantly a tin of bacon and
a pot of jam which I presented to him ; the head
officer of my police (a Portuguese gentleman named
THE HIf,L TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 363
De Rosario) was made happy with a tin of haddocks;
while Narabadi rejoiced greatly over some barley-
sugar and a deer's-foot cheroot-holder. He desired
me to convey to my mother his respectful thanks in
the following terms :
“Atsak hrey-ji, phie khang-ji; atsak ta khoung
hrey-li-ji de lak ma ka,” &c., which, being inter-
preted, meant, “May your years be extended and
no misfortune befall you ; may your prosperity
increase, and may each grain of your sowing bring
forth a hundredfold.”
In Bengal the sensation most keenly felt by an
Englishman is that he is an alien in a foreign land;
but among the hill folk one is among fellow-creatures.
Wherever I went among the people, I was hospitably
entertained, fed, and fêted ; in return I kept open
house for all who came to see me.
I devoted all my spare time to acquiring the
different languages and dialects spoken in my
district, being strongly impressed with the idea that
no true justice can be done through an interpreter,
and that the only key to the thoughts and customs
of the people lies through their language.
In the Chittagong Hill Tracts there were spoken
no fewer than four distinct languages. With the
first of these, Burmese, I was now fairly acquainted;
Bengali I knew before coming to the Hills, and so
mastered the Chakma tongue, which is practically the
same with the introduction of local words. The
Tipra and Lushai languages were quite distinct, and
difficult to acquire.
I had parted with all my Bengali “baboos” save
one, and the people could now understand the
364 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
working of justice in the court-house, or kutcherry,
my Burmese clerks being in sympathy with them and
understanding their customs.
Towards the end of the year 1867 the frontier
became much disturbed, and I moved up, with all
available fighting men at my disposal, to our most
advanced frontier stockade at Kassalong. I felt
more and more convinced that the chronic state of
irritation which existed among the border tribes
could not, without danger, be allowed to continue,
and that, sooner or later, the Government must be
driven to offensive as well as defensive measures.
The violent and cruel Lushais saw in a pacific
policy only fear or cowardice, and would only be
convinced of our power by stringent reprisals.
Rutton Poia's tribe alone stood staunchly by their
alliance with me, and gave me frequently private
information which enabled me to frustrate intended
or attempted raids on our territory.
During my stay at Kassalong I embraced every
opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the
Lushais, who freely resorted to our market, and
learnt all I could concerning their language and
customs. They have a curious tradition concerning
their genesis, which I heard from one of the principal
karbaris of the Sylu tribe.
“Our ancestors,” said he, “came originally out of
a cave in the hills. This cavern may be seen at
the present day near Van Huilen's village among
the Burdaia clan. Strange noises are heard to issue
therefrom, and no one willingly approaches the spot.
“At the first we had a great chief whose name
was Tlandrokpa. He married God's daughter and
THE HILL TRACTs of CHITTAGONG. 365
was a very powerful chief. To prepare for the mar-
riage all the animals were summoned to clear a road
through the jungle by which to bring the bride home.
“At that time, which was longer than long ago,
all living things spoke with one language, and all the
animals obeyed the call except the sloth, his cousin
the huluq monkey, and the earth-worm ; therefore
it is that to this day these animals are ashamed and
hide themselves, not loving the sunlight.
“Then there were great festivities. Tlandrokpa
gave Patien (God) his great gun ; one can hear the
sound of it often when it thunders, that is when
Patien goes out hunting up there.
“Some time after the wedding Tlandrokpa quar-
relled with Patien, and was conquered by means of
the great gun and its fire. And the earth took fire
and burnt with a great heat, and the whole race of
men would have been consumed; but Patien’s
daughter counselled us, and we came towards the sea,
where there was much water, and so our ancestors
saved their lives.
“Here in the new country, there was great scarcity
of food, for at that time men did not eat flesh ; but
at last, by reason of great hunger, they began to kill
and eat the animals. Then the creatures spoke and
begged for mercy in such pitiful words that it was
hard to slay them, until at last Patien's daughter
besought her father, and he took from the animals
their power of speech. Since then food has been
plentiful among us. This we have heard from our
ancestors.”
The Lushais resemble in many points our own
Highlanders. Their chiefs wear mantles woven of a
366 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
red and blue tartan ; their music resembles that of
the bagpipes, with a gourd reservoir instead of the
skin bag; they are split up into clans, which are
often at feud one with another, and they cement
friendship and foment strife by free indulgence
in an ardent spirit closely resembling Highland
whiskey.
Their chiefs are chosen from one ancient strain of
royal blood ; but it does not therefore follow that
every chief’s son shall succeed his father. He must
first show himself worthy to be a leader before men
will follow him. Although his rule may be set aside,
the scion of a chief's house (or “Lal,” as he is called)
is held sacred as being of semi-divine origin, and
must not be ill-treated or killed. The chief directs
in war, and must be the first to attack and the last
to retreat. -
Once, in Rutton Poia's village, I noticed a drunken
Lushai rudely push the chief out of his way. Rut-
ton Poia said nothing, but gathered his mantle closer
around him and continued his conversation with me.
“What is this P’” I asked ; “do you not punish
disrespect in your followers ?”
“Disrespect!” he exclaimed, “why the man is
drunk and incapable of disrespect But putting
his condition aside, here all are equal. On the war-
path, or in the chase, if he did not obey me he would
die; but here is as in his own house.”
If any man is in want, he walks into the chief's
house and takes what he needs. “He is a chief.”
they say, “and will receive plenty more gifts. All
we have is his ; SO also his goods are ours. Who
should give to us if our chief does not?”
THE HILL TRACTs of CHITTAGONG. 367
For public purposes, such as feast days, receptions,
the entertaining of guests, &c., the chief sends for
anything that may be required to whoever has it.
His house is built for him and his land cultivated by
the unpaid labour of his followers.
The chief's house is a sanctuary, where all criminals
may take refuge. Even the avengers of blood, pur-
suing a murderer red-handed, may not pass beyond
the threshold with arms in their hands. But by thus
seeking refuge under the chief's roof-tree the fugitive
becomes ipso facto the chief's slave. He has other
slaves also of those taken in war ; by them he sends
orders and messages, their authorization being the
chief's own spear, which represents his sign manual.
A piece of red cloth attached to the spear means
“blood,” a small piece of cane attached means
“beating,” and if to the same is added a piece of
capsicum, then an offender knows that his punish-
ment will be hot and pungent. Two pieces of
bamboo tied crosswise accompanying the spear is a
demand for black mail, the number of head of
cattle required being indicated by bends in the bam-
boo ; if the cross-piece be burned or charred with
fire at one end, great danger and urgency are
denoted. This last token is like the old token of the
fiery cross on the Scottish border ; it admits of no
delay, and must be responded to by men fully armed,
even if they have to go through the forest by torch-
light. -
In the house of a chief there is always drinking
going on. The “seepah " or “khoung '' (both names
being given to the hill beer made from millet-seed) is
either sucked up through reeds direct from the great
368 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
earthen jars, or drawn off into mighty horns or great
brazen bowls, by means of a syphon formed of two
reeds jointed with lac and resin, and thence ladled out
to the drinkers by a gourd spoon. Should there be an
extraordinary gathering of guests, auxiliary cups are
quickly manufactured from the joints of a bamboo.
My interpreter, Ramoni, who had formerly been a
slave in Rutton Poia’s house, and whose freedom was
granted at my request, gave me a very graphic
account of an expedition he had made with the chief
into British territory. The raid was directed on the
Bengali villagers of Cachar.
“The Bengali men,” said Ramoni, “all ran away,
except those whom we were able to spear. The
young women and children also tried to escape, but
we caught most of them. We killed all the men we
met with, except healthy young lads of fifteen and
under; these, with women of not more than thirty or
thirty-five years, were tied by the thumbs, their arms
being bound behind them. The women were kept
together by a cord passed through the lobe of their
ears; if the hole in the lobe were not large enough,
it had to be widened by a knife or skewer.
“On the return journey one of the women sank
down from exhaustion and could go no farther, her
feet and ankles being much swollen. The chief halted,
and after a short consultation, he said to me, ‘Go,
Ramoni, and spear her. I will stand by and see that
you do it properly.' I felt much afraid, for I had
never killed a human creature, and I was only seven-
teen years old.
“When the girl saw me approaching her with the
spear in my hand she fell a-weeping and caught at
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 369
my feet and my garments, entreating me. Then my
heart beat and my head became giddy, so that I said
to the chief, ‘I cannot do it.’
“‘Dog, and son of a slave!’ replied he ; “never
again call me by the name of father l’ And all the
young men of the war party laughed and jeered at
me, saying they would tell the maidens in our village
how brave I was, and would ask them to make a
petticoat for me.
“Then I shut my eyes and rushed at her with my
spear, but the blow was ill-directed; and Rutton
Poia snatched the weapon from my hands and killed
the girl with one blow. “Here,' said he, giving me
back my spear with the blood on it, ‘lick this to
strengthen your heart.’
“The blood of Bengalis is very salt,” added
Ramoni; “but since then I have not been afraid to
spear anyone.”
When going out on a foray the Lushais take with
them as food, yam and rice pounded together, and
rammed down into tubes of bamboo. On this meagre
sustenance they can march enormous distances. They
are very cunning in their strategy, sending out
spies, and keeping their main body in ambush. On
the only occasion when they surprised and destroyed
one of my outposts they did so by means of a decoy.
Late at night a loud knocking was heard at the
gate of the stockade, and voices called out that
a village of the Khyoung-tha, distant some four
miles, had been attacked by a party of Lushais,
and prayed for assistance. The guard promptly
got under arms, and headed by the Jemadar, went
off in the darkness to succour the distressed
24
370 A FIY ON THE WHEEL.
village, leaving only a few men to guard the
stockade. . -
As soon as the main body of the defenders were at
a safe distance, the Lushais came out of their hiding-
place and escaladed the stockade, killing my men,
carrying off the women and children into captivity, and
taking the heads of the slain with them as trophies.
It is to this latter practice that the Lushais owe their
name, “Lu” meaning head, and “sha,” to cut; so
that “Lushai" would signify a “decapitator.” The
generic name of the whole nation is “Dzo.”
It is customary for young men on their first expe-
dition to eat a piece of the heart or liver of a slain
enemy, in order to confirm their courage. When
successful in a foray, they are careful not to wash the
blood-stains from their hands until they return home.
On nearing their own village, they are met by the
women and old men, who escort them to their houses
with triumphant songs, beating of gongs, and blowing
of reed pipes. A guyal, or two or three pigs will be
slaughtered, jars of beer broached, and for two or
three days the whole village is given up to rejoicing
and feasting.
They are, however, on the whole, a grave and
silent people, doubtless heedful of the old proverb,
“My son, if you be wise, open first your eyes, then
your ears, and last of all your mouth ; ” for the
Lushai sleeps, hunts, and Smiles with his mouth
closed. This habit undoubtedly prevents the admis-
sion of cold air and consequent tooth-ache and early
loss of teeth. Also there is among them no croup,
no teething disorders, nor lung diseases.
From early childhood they are taught to close the
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 371
jaws and cover the head and face with their mantle
while sleeping, in order to avoid the damp air and
malaria of night. The Lushais, like most hill-
dwellers, are a hardy and healthy race, and suffer
mainly from disorders brought on by hard drinking.
Cholera (which they call “the foreign sickness”)
and small-pox were unknown among them until
the year 1861, when the former was introduced
among them by some Bengali captives taken in a
raid.
The contagion spread rapidly, infecting village
after village and causing dire consternation. Men
attacked with the terrible malady, in many instances,
blew out their brains rather than endure the pain of
the disease and their inevitable desertion by all their
relatives. Thanks, however, to this inhuman practice
of deserting the sick and dying, the disease died out
after slaying its thousands, and has not since re-
appeared.
In ordinary cases of death, all the relatives of the
dead man are called together, and a big feast is held.
The corpse is attired in a fine mantle, and placed in a
sitting posture, with his weapons near him, and is thus
addressed by the eldest male relative : “Brother
you have a long journey before you ; eat.” Then he
places food before the body, and the dead man's pipe
is filled and placed in his hand, while all present bid
him farewell.
On the second day, when all the guests have well
drunken, the corpse is placed in a hollow tree by way
of coffin and buried in the jungle. Among some of
the tribes the curious custom prevails of drying the
bodies of their chiefs or great men, over a slow fire,
24 *
372 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
first sheathing them in pith, and then hanging them
up on a tree.
In the Howlong clan, the body thus dried is hung
from the rafters of the house for seven days, and
during this period the widow must sit underneath the
corpse spinning. On no account must she quit the
spot, not even to take food, being dependent for her
nourishment during this period of mourning on the
kind offices of her relatives.
I found the idea of my position as a government
official conveyed but a vague impression to the minds
of these uncivilized people ; so I took my standing
among them as a chief, paramount in the district,
but subject to a yet greater white chief in Calcutta.
I had obtained permission from Government to
move my head-quarters from Chandraguna to
Rangamati, a more central spot, a day's journey
nearer the frontier, and I determined to test my
position as chief, in the local fashion, by calling
on all the Toung-tha in the vicinity to build me a
house.
Accordingly I sent messages to all the Pankhos,
Mros, and Bunjogi villages for twenty miles round,
saying that I was moving from Chandraguna to
Rangamati, and desired a house to live in there. I
further informed them that numerous jars of beer
and three pigs were waiting the consumption of those
who laboured. e
Within a week some three hundred men had set to
work with a will, and built me a large house, Lushai
fashion, on the spot I had selected. It was built en-
tirely of bamboo, except the posts, which were huge
logs of unhewn timber, and the floor, which was con-
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 373
structed of small saplings about two inches in diameter
laid lengthwise.
The position of my new head-quarters was quite
central. It was situated on a bend of the river
Karna-phuli, which at this place makes a sort of loop.
I had the land thus enclosed cleared from jungle.
At the narrow part of the bend I placed the police
barracks, thus defending the small peninsula from
land attack, while the river, which was here very
deep, protected the other three sides of the new
settlement. My own house was placed on a lofty
cliff overhanging the river, and commanding a beauti-
ful and extended view on all sides. I named my new
abode “Barn House,” but had hardly settled myself
comfortably in it when I had to start off again in
hot haste for the jungles. - -
My new frontier police patrols had kept the dis-
trict free from raids for many months; but I
now got tidings from Rutton Poia that a party
of the Howlong clan had started on the war-path,
and might be expected to raid in the Southern Hill
Tracts.
This timely information enabled me, by a rapid
jungle march, to cut in between the marauders and
the Bohmong’s villages which were threatened, and,
finding their plans discovered, they retreated without
doing any harm. I followed their trail with my
police for two days, but was unable to catch any of
the party.
During this expedition I camped out with my
party, sleeping under the trees at night; and I was
struck by a peculiar custom of the hill men who ac-
companied us as coolies. They carefully notched the
374 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
tree under which they intended to sleep, in upward
nicks with their daos. I thought they were doing
this in idleness at first, but at dawn I observed them
reversing the process and notching the tree down-
wards, and inquired the meaning. They explained
to me that by notching the tree upwards, the dew
which falls during the night is absorbed by the leaves,
and consequently does not drip on those who lie be-
neath; and that it was necessary to reverse the nicks
in the morning in order to appease the wood spirits
and avert misfortune.
Another interesting and useful piece of woodcraft
I also learnt on this journey. Our road lay due
south along a lofty hill range, and our camping-ground
at night being far from any stream, we could find no
water. On this one of my hill men took his dao, and
with two sharp cuts severed a piece, about two yards
long, of one of the many creeping plants which swing
from branch to branch and from tree to tree in wild
luxuriance all through these forests, and holding this
up perpendicularly, about half a pint of clear water
trickled out. The water did not come unless a piece
of the creeper were cut right out, the air seeming
to stop the flow if the plant were simply cut through.
Our only captive this time was a huluq monkey,
a shy little beast, very rarely seen or caught. They
have black fur with white breasts, and go about
usually in pairs, swinging from branch to branch
with incredible agility, and making the forest re-
sound with their strange cachinnatory cry. They
walk erect on the ground, generally holding one
long arm in the air, ready to grasp a bough if they
are disturbed. They are wild creatures, and cannot
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 375
be domesticated unless taken as sucklings, as they
pine and die in captivity.
I grew quite attached to the one we now caught.
It was curiously human in appearance, the hands
and nails specially so. He slept at night lying at
full length with one arm under his head as a pillow.
He grew very tame, feeding on fruit and grain
from my hand, and croodling in a most sympathetic
manner if I pretended to be in trouble. His great
delight was to accompany me in my walks, going up-
right and hand in hand with me in friendly fashion.
I missed him much when he died of lung disease
about six months later.
The Rani Kalindi remained as irreconcilable as
ever, and when a new Commissioner was appointed
at Chittagong, in place of my good friend Y , she
took advantage of the occasion to send her grandson
and heir on a special mission to Calcutta, renewing
all her old complaints, and again seeking my dismissal.
She feared my increasing influence would diminish
her power, and spent a considerable sum in providing
her grandson with a suitable retinue and hiring advo-
cates, accompanied by whom he presented himself
before the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
The ground now taken was that the late Commis-
sioner had been my friend and partizan, and that no
One had ventured to complain to him; but that if an
impartial inquiry were held, crowds of the unfortunate
and oppressed hill men would come and bring for-
ward their complaints. -
A fresh inquiry was accordingly held at Chittagong
by the new Commissioner, who carefully sifted the
evidence, and ended by requesting me to return to
376 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
my district, as he could discover nothing prejudicial
to me except, perhaps, that “the Regulations" were
not sufficiently observed. The sacred Regulations!
How was it possible to fit them on such very irregular
subjects as I had to deal with?
On my return to Rangamati I found messengers
were awaiting me at Kassalong, from Savunga, the
head chief of the great Sylu clan of the Lushais,
who wished to meet and confer with me... I was
greatly rejoiced, as, if I could only gain a hold on this
clan, I might hope for peace, both on the northern
frontier of my district and also in Cachar.
I therefore received the messengers graciously, and
tried to arrange an interview with their chief. There
were difficulties to contend with, as small-pox had
broken out in the Hill Tracts, and the Lushais have
such a terror of this disease that there was no chance
of the chief venturing on British territory while the
epidemic lasted; and at length I settled to go out a
two days’ journey into the forest beyond the frontier,
and meet him on neutral ground.
The Sylu messengers told me that, three years
before, my predecessor had been visited by some
messengers from Savunga's village, and he, being
desirous of cultivating friendly relations with the
chief, had sent by the hands of the messengers
a bank note, which was worth many rupees. Desi-
rous of testing its value, the men showed it to a
Bengali shopkeeper in the bazaar, who speedily
offered them salt, beads, and salt fish to about a
quarter of its value, which they accordingly accepted
in its place and carried to Savunga. On reaching the
chief's village, the messengers reported what they
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 377
had done. “How?” said Savunga. “The Sahib gave
you a magic piece of paper, and you have sold it *
Cut them down!” So the luckless ones were
slain.
The karbaris asked me to give them a magic letter
that could be turned into money, such as had been
given before, and I promised I would give it to the
chief himself when we met. So I provided myself
with a bank note, and, taking with me thirty of my
best men, in case of treachery, I set off to meet the
chiefs.
After camping in the evening, I took a quiet stroll
with only a small walking-stick in my hand, when,
without any sound of warning, a magnificent tiger
slowly and majestically passed across the small
stream up which I was proceeding. He did not
appear to see me, and feeling much relieved as he
passed out of sight, I thought it wiser to return to
Camp. -
Savunga himself failed to appear at the rendez-
vous; but he sent some minor chiefs as his repre-
sentatives, and with them I went through the usual
formula of oath swearing, making them presents of
cloth, beads, &c. They wanted gunpowder and bank
notes, but these I refused, as Savunga had not come
personally. I mistrusted them indeed, altogether,
and put no faith in their oaths and protestations.
They seemed to me simply to have come seeking for
presents, not in any good faith.
To carry out my character of a hill chief, I deter-
mined this year to cultivate my jum at Rangamati;
and in May, I and my servants set to work and cleared
about half an acre of land. It was no child's play,
378 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
but very hard work, and my hands got terribly
blistered in the operation.
With the first rain I sowed my crop of grain,
cucumbers, and melons, hoping that I might enjoy
the fruit of my labour. Unfortunately I forgot that
every hill man lives on his jum, with wife and chil-
dren, weeding the young crop, whereas I had not only
neither helpmate nor olive-branches, but was also
constantly on the move, looking after all the irons I
had in the fire; in consequence the fowls of the
air devoured my seed, and I had to content myself
with a scanty cotton crop.
I made an effort about this time to introduce silk
culture, and for this purpose obtained a stock of
cocoons from Assam. Silk fabrics were much prized
among the wealthier sort of people, and raw silk was
imported from Calcutta and woven into very beau-
tiful fabrics at Cox's Bazaar and its immediate
vicinity. The attempt failed, however ; either the
worm did not thrive, or the people could not
manage it properly. I was more successful in the
introduction of improved varieties of grain and
cotton seed, the latter in particular being eagerly
taken by the people.
I was now on good and cordial terms with all the
chiefs of my district, excepting always the ever-
truculent and irreconcilable Rani and her Bengali
advisers. She, however, was silenced, at any rate
for the time, as her last costly petition had again
resulted only in strengthening my hands and bringing
me the sunshine of official praise, both from my
immediate superior, the Commissioner of Chittagong,
and also from the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. I
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 379
nad worked hard, and the praise and sympathy
accorded gave me fresh courage for my somewhat
arduous undertakings.
I had on hand a comprehensive scheme for the re-
settlement of the revenue system, which required
very tender handling, touching as it did the influence
and income of the leading men in the Hills. This I
felt bound to see through personally, if possible, as
I feared a stranger to my hill friends might involun-
tarily do them injustice.
Next I had to complete the establishment of
the new head-quarters at Rangamati, removing the
police barracks, the courts, the treasury, and the
bazaar, forty miles further up the river from Chan-
draguna; and although my own house was built for
me voluntarily in recognition of chiefship, the build-
ing of the further state accommodation was no small
undertaking.
I had also set on foot primary schools at different
central places ; and no slight pressure was required
to induce the people to send their children for instruc-
tion. I entered into negotiation with the Mission in
Calcutta, hoping to obtain the services of a mis-
sionary, and being willing to pay half his salary
myself, as I felt convinced that there was a wide
field for religious effort among the simple nature-
worshippers. The Buddhists I did not propose to
interfere with.
My great desire was to help the people to raise
themselves without introducing the evils of European
civilization among them. But it was a difficult task.
Living, as they did, a hazardous care-driven life ;
each chief set against his neighbour ; each clan
380 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
against the other; their arms of offence and defence
alike inefficient; their ambition but shortsighted self-
interest ; their habits of life little removed from the
wild creatures in the woods surrounding their vil-
lages: how long would it take to bring them to
a knowledge of better things? However, the future
can never be inquired into, and I could only act for
the best in the space of time I was with and among
them.
A party of Toung-tha visited me in September,
bringing their offering of firstfruits—rice, melons,
and cucumbers, with some bottles of arrack. I
regaled them to their satisfaction with “Turkish
delight '' and English rum, and by special request
exhibited my small galvanic battery. This little
instrument was regarded as the highest manifesta-
tion of magic art and added greatly to my reputation.
One of my visitors, with much misgiving, but more
curiosity, laid hold of the handles, while I worked
the wheel. And then what moaning and contortions
ensued, followed by much rubbing of hands and
elbows, while those who had not tried the experiment
were convulsed with laughter at their comrade's dis-
comfiture, until their own turn came for groaning.
The climax of astonishment was reached when I
placed a rupee in a brass bowl of water, and announced
that whoever could hold the handle of the machine
in one hand and take the rupee out of the water with
the other should have it for his own. The other
handle of the machine I placed in the bowl, and, of
course, as soon as a hand touched the water the
fingers doubled up and failed to grasp the coveted
rupee. The discomfiture and surprise of even the
THE HILL TRACTS OF CHITTAGONG. 381
most resolute among them was comical in the extreme,
and I laughed till I was tired.
“L’homme propose, mais Dieu dispose,” and towards
the close of the year my health failed me completely,
and I was advised that I must go for a year's leave
to England if I wished to do any more work.
I set my affairs in the best order I could, and on
the 10th of January went up the river to Kässalong,
to send friendly words of farewell to Rutton Poia,
and to personally assure his karbaris that I should
certainly return to the Hills after a short absence, and
also to make a parting inspection of the police out-
post. *
I landed, and sat writing in my small mat hut
inside the fort on the river's bank, when suddenly the
walls and roof began to shake violently. I thought
that probably an elephant had got loose, and was
amusing himself by pulling down my house, so ran
out hastily ; but there was no elephant to be seen. I
gazed about me in some bewilderment. The bank was
high, and commanded a considerable stretch of forest
land on the opposite side of the river; and as I looked,
the solid earth moved as if a wave were sweeping
along beneath its crust, while the great trees bowed
down and swayed their arms wildly, as though smitten
by a mighty wind. But the air was perfectly still, and
I knew it was a heavy shock of earthquake. In my
district all houses were built of bamboo and mat,
and suffered little or no damage; but the disturbance
did much mischief in other parts of Bengal.
I paid one more visit to the Mong Raja ; but this
was perforce a hasty one, owing to severe dysentery
and repeated attacks of fever. My parting from him
382 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and his people was very affecting, the women crying,
and the men touching my feet and holding my gar-
ments. -
“Do not leave us,” they cried. “We shall never
see your face again. Why must you go 2" .
I was greatly concerned, for the kindly simple fol
were very near my heart. I felt that my efforts for
their welfare had not been in vain ; and I resolved
that if it pleased God to restore my health I would
soon return to my work among them.
383
CHAPTER XII.
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION.
1871–72.
I WAS absent on leave for nearly two years, and on
my return to Calcutta, in January 1871, I learnt that
the south-western frontier was in a very disturbed
condition, and I was requested by Government to
return to my post in the Hill Tracts with all possible
speed. There had been two raids during my absence,
both upon the territory of the Bohmong, and both
committed by the Shendās; with these two excep-
tions, the Hill Tracts had been at rest. My friends
the Lushais, however, considered that their compacts
with me left them quite free to attack other dis-
tricts ; and so, uniting their forces, they had com-
mitted a series of forays of the most aggravated
character in the neighbouring district of Cachar,
killing several Europeans, and carrying off Mary
Winchester, the little daughter of a planter, with
many other British native subjects, into captivity.
Before leaving Calcutta, I had interviews with
both the Governor-General (Lord Mayo) and the
Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, and learnt that a
punitive expedition was to be despatched at the
384 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
end of the year against the Lushais. Lord Mayo's
minute upon the subject, which I afterwards saw,”
very admirably condenses the situation and the
causes which led up to it, as follows :-
It is with great reluctance that I have to express the opinion
that it will be necessary to send, in the ensuing cold weather,
an armed force into the country of the Lushais. The cruel
raids that have been made for some years past upon various
parts of our territory, more especially on the tea-gardens in the
Cachar district, and the very unsuccessful and inefficient means
which have hitherto been taken for the protection of our
frontier, together with the partial mismanagement and want of
success which has attended almost everything we have done,
doubtless imparted to these savages the impression that we are
either unable or unwilling to take active measures and to punish
the perpetrators of such crimes. Having expressed this opinion,
it will be necessary to consider first what the character of the
expedition is to be, and, second, the mode and means by which
it is to be carried out.
I cannot think that the expedition ought to partake of the
character of those which have from time to time been under-
taken on the North-Western frontier for the chastisement of a
particular tribe or clan. It does not appear that whole villages
or tribes take part in these Lushai attacks, and it is difficult to
trace particular raids to any particular tribes, the Howlongs,
the Sylus, or others. This state of things renders the precise
object of the expedition rather difficult to define. It would be
impossible to send a force into the Howlong country, for in-
stance, with orders to burn right and left, destroy villages and
root up crops, a course which might be justifiable if we were
punishing an Akkazai or Waziri village. I therefore agree with
the Lieutenant-Governor, and am opposed to any measure of
pure retaliation; if our advance into the country is met with op-
position, our opponents must, of course, be severely punished;
but besides this, it will be necessary to give the expedition a
definite object, and here lies the difficulty. The restoration of
the captives might be one; the infliction of a fine on certain
* Hunter's Life of Lord Mayo, vol. i. p. 230,
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 385
villages - whose inhabitants took part in the raids would be
another; the carrying off of hostages as pledges of good
behaviour, a third; the surrender of undoubtedly guilty
parties, such as leading chiefs, and others who were known to
have taken part in the raids, a fourth; the immediate destruc-
tion of any village, with the surrounding crops, which offered
any resistance, a fifth; but the main object would be to endea-
vour to enter into relations of a permanent character with the
Savages; to make them promise to receive into their villages
from time to time native agents of our own ; to show them the
advantages of trade and commerce, and to demonstrate to them
effectively that they have nothing to gain and everything to
lose by placing themselves in a hostile position towards us.
With this view it will be necessary that the expedition should
be attended as much as possible by chiefs belonging to friendly
tribes, and such use must be made of their people and followers
as the circumstances of the case admit. I am not disposed to
hamper the present enterprise with the task of making a road,
as has been proposed, from Cachar to Chittagong; the success
of such an undertaking is very doubtful, and some objection
has been taken as to its policy. A road of this kind must be
protected, and if its construction was resented by the tribes it
would be a perpetual source of anxiety and expense. On the
other hand, if the road can be made with the consent and by
the assistance of the tribes it would probably be easily con-
structed and kept open at a small cost and at little risk .
The expedition must not be looked upon as a campaign, for no
formidable resistance is anticipated; it should be looked upon
more as a military occupation and visitation of as large a
portion of the Lushai districts as possible for the purpose of
punishing the guilty where they can be traced, but more parti-
cularly for showing these savages that there is no part of their
hills to which our armed forces cannot penetrate.
I confess to having felt very glad that the Govern-
ment had come to this determination, for I had eaten
much dirt at the hands of the Lushais for some time
past in carrying out the conciliatory and defensive
policy which had been hitherto prescribed. The
25
386 A FLY ON THE WHEEL,
expedition, in my opinion, might have been avoided,
had discretionary powers been granted to the district
officers to follow and punish all raiders found cross-
ing the frontier; it would have been comparatively
easy to deal with our enemies thus in detail, and
quite in accordance, moreover, with their own cus-
toms: but to attack them en masse by a military
occupation of their country was a very big thing
indeed, and would cost a large sum of money.
However, better this enormous cudgel than the
perpetual sugar-stick which my unwilling hands
had previously administered ; and so, having re-
ceived my instructions, by the month of February
I was once more back at Rangamati, with the reins
in my hands as of yore.
It warmed one’s heart to see again all the fami-
liar faces. I had a grand reception, and the stream
of my visitors did not cease for at least a fortnight.
I built out a gallery of bamboo from the summit
of the lofty cliff behind Barn House, overhanging
the river, and commanding a beautiful view. Here
was always a cool breeze, if such a thing were any-
where to be found, and here regularly, at a little
before sundown, fine mats were spread, and with a
big pillow to lean upon, I took my seat cross-legged,
and prepared to smoke and chat with such of the
hill people as might look in. My servants handed
round cigars and a silver dish full of betel and
pán to all who came, and my gallery speedily
became the popular lounge, where I gained much
valuable local information, and heard stories and
legends by the score. At seven my servant Nuru-
din brought me a glass of Sherry and announced
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 387
dinner, which was the signal for the break up of the
party.
Nurudin entered my service first in an inferior
capacity at Chittagong ; but when I was appointed
Hill Superintendent, all my servants except the
faithful Toby refused to accompany me into the
wilderness, for the place and its inhabitants had a
bad name with the plainsmen. Nurudin, how-
ever, at last took his courage with both hands,
and, disregarding the warnings and entreaties of
friends and relatives, followed my fortunes to
Chandraguna, and served me faithfully until the
close of the Lushai expedition. I then, as a reward
for his fidelity, obtained for him the appoint-
ment of Bazaar Jemadar on the frontier, for which,
indeed, he was well fitted. I had previously avenged
myself upon his family by marrying him to a hill
wife, and he became quite habituated to the coun-
try, attaining a fair knowledge of the Lushai
language.
Meantime, at Rangamati I had not been idle in
making preparations for the expedition. I arranged
for guides and interpreters, and settled what coolies
should be furnished by each tribe. I also communi-
cated darkly with Rutton Poia, and assured myself
of the stability of his alliance. Having made these
arrangements, I was again summoned to Calcutta by
the authorities, and in the month of May attended a
conference there, to settle administrative details for
the coming expedition. It was arranged that two
columns should enter the Lushai country, one from
Cachar on the north, the other from Chittagong on
the south, and, if possible, the commanding officers
25 +
388 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
of the two columns were to effect a junction in the
Lushai country.
I was to act as Political Officer in subordination
to the General commanding the Southern column,
while the Deputy Commissioner of Cachar was to
accompany the Northern column in a similar capacity.
Lord Mayo was very kind to me, and, in an interview
I had with him, he listened with much interest to my
account of the Hills and their people; and when I
took leave of him, he desired me to do my utmost
to promote the ends of the expedition, promising me
that in case of success he would see that my services
were adequately rewarded.
My frontier police were now increased in numbers,
and their arms and general equipment improved;
additional European assistants were placed at my
disposal;-in short, rough things began to be made
smooth in the Hill Tracts.
At the close of the conference, I was directed to
proceed to Sylhet, to see the Deputy Inspector-
General of Police there, who was in command of a
recruiting depôt for my Hill Tract Corps and the
Cachar Frontier Police, and to arrange with him
questions of detail in reference to their pay and equip-
ment. My journey thither presented no difficulties.
I was given a special train from Calcutta to Kushtea
on the Ganges, and a free passage in the Government
steamer which plied thence to Dacca ; there I struck
the regular line of steamers plying to Assam, and
after a monotonous voyage up the mighty Brahma-
putra, I was landed at the village of Chatak, where
the small stream leading to Sylhet and Cachar de-
bouches into the main river. From Chatak I hired
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 389
a boat, which conveyed me to Sylhet, and having
there concluded my business with the Deputy In-
spector-General, and arranged matters to our mutual
satisfaction, I returned as quickly as possible to
Chatak, hoping to catch a return steamer from
Assam to Dacca.
I took up my temporary quarters in a small mat
house with a mud floor, and having discussed a
meagre repast of rice, eggs, and water, I gazed
anxiously up the great river, hoping to see in the
distance the black funnel of the expected steamer.
To my right lay the beautiful blue ranges of the
Khasia Hills, their flanks streaked here and there
with white lines, where the torrents foamed down to
the plains in a mad leap of four thousand feet.
There was no sign of the steamer, so I took a walk
about the place—the small aggregation of mud huts
called Chatak,
On the outskirts of the village, close to the great
river, I discovered a ruined temple, or shrine, Sacred
to the goddess Kali, and, looking curiously into the
dark interior, was somewhat startled at seeing a
ghostly figure sitting silently near the central altar.
It was a “fakir,” or religious mendicant, nearly
naked, as far as I could distinguish in the dim light,
Smeared from head to foot with white ashes, while
streaks of added vermilion gave the face a ghastly
grotesqueness.
The following dialogue ensued between us :
“Salutation! holy one. Why are you sitting alone
in the Mother's temple?”
“Sahib, I am seeking wisdom.”
“What wisdom, Maharaj?” No reply.
390 A Ff.Y ON THE WHEEL.
“I do not speak lightly. I also am a seeker after
knowledge; even so, although my face is white and
I wear the garments of the Sahib-log. I salute
always all seekers after light. What wisdom,
Maharaj?”
“I am repeating ‘muntras' (charms). To-night
I have to wrestle with the dead. I ask you not to
interrupt me.”
“I will leave you; but first tell me, father, before
I go, what will you do to-night?”
“When I have sufficiently strengthened my
muntra, I go to the grave of a boy, and, by the
force of that charm, the dead one will arise and
come forth. Then shall I wrestle with him. If I
overcome him, I shall gain the wisdom I require ;
but if otherwise, I must go into the grave.”
“Enough, O Maharajal May you be successful l’’
On inquiring at the village, I was informed that
this fakir was a very holy man indeed, and that he
had been alone in the temple for a week. The
villagers placed food at the door, but had never
ventured to disturb the meditations of the eerie
occupant of the building. The steamer came down
in the course of the afternoon, so I was prevented
from learning the result of his undertaking.
On reaching Dacca, I was hospitably received by
a friend, and forwarded the next day in a com-
fortable “budgerow,” or pleasure-boat, reaching
Comillah, the head-quarters of the Tipra district,
the same evening. Here I put up for a couple of
days, at the house of the English agent of the Tipra
Raja, telegraphing to Chittagong for horses to be
sent out for me. My host kindly furnished me with
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 391
horses for the first thirty miles of my return
journey, and a walk of fifteen more brought me to
the banks of the Pheni River, the boundary between
Tipra and Chittagong. Here I had hoped to find a
horse-dak laid for me from Chittagong; but a mighty
rain had fallen, the floods were out, and the roads
impassable for quadrupeds ; so, as I had often done
before, I had to trust to my own legs, and slipping
off shoes and stockings, Nur-u-din and I trudged
for three days, a distance of sixty miles, through
mud and pelting rain to Chittagong, where I arrived
somewhat fatigued and considerably washed out.
On reaching Rangamati, I worked hard drilling
the Frontier Battalion, as the Hill Tract Police were
now styled, collecting information, and making
arrangements generally for the coming campaign;
but my health began to fail, and doubts would now
and then assail me as to whether I should be able
to remain much longer in my beloved hills. My
violoncello shared my depression, and fell to pieces
from the damp.
They gave me now another assistant, and an
officer was sent to act under me in charge of the
Frontier Battalion. I received also complimentary
letters from Government officials as to “the essential
services.” I should be able to render, and “the
prospective advantages” which would accrue to me.
In short, the quiet corner of the world where I had
ruled so peacefully began to pass rapidly into the
glare of publicity, and the process was not a
pleasant one.
In July I completed and sent in to Government
a collection of the proverbs current among the Hill
392 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Tribes, which I had been engaged in making for
some time. Many of these proverbs were delight-
fully quaint and characteristic; but what was most
forcibly brought home to me in making this com-
pilation was, that even the widest differences of race
and manners, of language and religion, are after all
Only superficial distinctions, and that underneath
lies very much the same nature common to all
humanity. Numbers of these proverbs were the
common property of the world, the same thoughts,
under a slightly different dress, being found among
the most dissimilar races, Asiatic or European. The
only explanation of this is, I think, that the proverbs
of even the most civilized people date from the
earliest periods of their history, and represent the
time and feelings of pristine simplicity; for our crust
of civilization, of artificial culture and convention-
ality, is, after all, very superficial: “scratch the
Western and you will find the natural man
beneath.” g
All was now hurry and bustle as the months wore
on, and the time approached for military operations
to commence. I had to visit the Bohmong and
arrange for the frontier posts in his country being
taken over and garrisoned by his people during the
campaign, as the Frontier Battalion would be wanted
to the last man, to keep open communications,
furnish baggage guards, and act as Scouts. No
Sooner had I returned from Bundrabun than I had
to set out to the other extremity of the District to
consult with the Mong Raja what was the maximum
number of coolies for the expedition that could be
Squeezed out of his people. I lived as much as
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 393
possible in my boat on the river, in order to
avoid the jungle malaria, which I found myself less
and less able to withstand.
The campaign commenced on the 8th October
1871, by the arrival, as agant couriers, of the Deputy
Commissary-General and the Assistant Quarter-
master-General, who overwhelmed me with questions
upon every conceivable subject connected with the
country and its inhabitants, and who, having in
twenty-four hours pumped me dry, set forth to the
frontier to see for themselves what there was to
be seen.
On the 28th of October I went down to Chitta-
gong to meet General Brownlow, who was to
command the right column. I donned full uniform
to receive him, not wishing to lose my caste as a
military man in his eyes. He was a gentlemanly,
refined-looking man, in the prime of life, with a
genial smile and a kindly blue eye, which occasion-
ally shot forth an eagle gleam, that to an enemy or
an offender might seem ugly. I liked him, and
thought that I should have no difficulty in working
under his command.
I had been desired to write demi-official reports
of all that transpired to the private secretary of Lord
Mayo; but I undertook to do so much against my
inclination, as it was an invidious task, and I ran
the risk of inadvertently saying something which
might offend either General Brownlow or the Bengal
Government.
In November I assumed my position as Political
Officer with the right column, and made over charge
of my dear Hill Tracts to a Bengal civilian, a very
394 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Irish man, who inspired me with no confidence
whatever.
The Lushai expeditionary force was to assemble at
Kassalong before entering the enemy's country, and
thither I accordingly repaired. I had previously
sent word to Rutton Poia not to be alarmed at any
warlike preparations he might hear of, as I would
guarantee his safety and that of his tribe, if they were
true to our alliance. I had great hopes of utilising
him and his men as intermediaries in recovering the
captives from the Howlong tribe. The expeditionary
force slowly assembled at Kassalong, coming by
steamer from Calcutta to Chittagong, and thence by
boats to the frontier. The 2nd Ghurkha Regiment,
commanded by Colonel H. Macpherson, arrived first
on the scene; splendid little fellows they were, with an
equally fine body of officers, quite a corps d'élite.
I sent on my assistant, Mr. Crouch, with one hun-
dred and fifty men of the Frontier Battalion to build
a stockade and clear a camping-ground for the troops
at Demagree, close to Rutton Poia’s village.
Rutton Poia himself, with two minor chiefs, came
in on the 12th of November and gave in his adhe-
sion to our cause, offering all the assistance in his
power. I introduced him to General Brownlow with
all due form, whom he asked to pay a visit to his
village when opportunity served, which the General
good-naturedly promised to do.
The great difficulty of the campaign, it was evi-
dent, would be the commissariat. All supplies had
to be drawn from Chittagong, being carried from
there by boat to Demagree, on a river broken in its
upper course by frequent rapids.
THE LUSHAI ExPEDITION. 395
The Khyoung-tha contingent of coolies sent by the
hill chiefs now began to assemble; their chief employ-
ment would be to manage the dug-out canoes carrying
supplies in the upper river. The small Ghurkhas,
true hill men, like the Toung-tha or the Lushais, were
utterly unable to manage a canoe; indeed, as we
soon ascertained, some among them could not even sit
in a dug-out without upsetting it.
On the 16th of November, the General, Colonel
Macpherson, and I started from Kassalong to Dema-
gree, in separate canoes, each manned by four hill men.
We passed the night in our boats at Utan Chatra, and
here I found some turtle eggs in the sand, which
were not unacceptable at our frugal mess. We
arrived the next day at Demagree, and were delighted
to find a good stockade built and a large area of ground
cleared for the accommodation of the troops. This
had been well and quickly done by the men under
Mr. Crouch's orders, to whom the General expressed
his satisfaction.
A Lushai look-out station was discovered close to
the Demagree falls, where the river came tumbling
through a gorge into a large rocky basin; a cradle
of cane, rigged up in a lofty tree on the heights,
commanding a view far down the Karna-phuli. The
night of our advance party arriving there, the Lushais
had tried their vigilance by throwing stones into the
camp, but otherwise they had been undisturbed. I
had sent out Scouts into the Lushai country beyond,
and they now reported that the Lushais were in force
on the Sahjuk stream (a northern tributary of the
Karna-phuli), and were preparing to resist our ad-
Vance.
396 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
The men were set to work preparing a timber slide
up the Demagree falls, as, when once we had passed
onward, every ounce of food would have to be
dragged up the fall, which was of no great height,
perhaps twenty feet.
On the 22nd of November the General visited
Rutton Poia's village in accordance with his promise;
he started early, taking a company of the 2nd Ghur-
khas as escort, and I accompanied him to act as
interpreter. The village was situated on the range
of hills east of our camp at a distance of three miles;
and midway on the road the chief met our party and
conducted the General to the village, where we break-
fasted on provisions which we had brought with us,
and were regaled with hill beer. A guyal also was
killed in honour of the visit, and two basketsful of the
flesh were sent to camp for our consumption.
General Brownlow and his staff returned in the
afternoon, but I remained at the village for the
night, as Rutton Poia wished me to assist at a great
council of his friends and relatives, which was to
be held there, to decide the course which the clan
should take during the coming contest.
There was accordingly a big talk and a correspond-
ing drink. Rutton Poia's desire was to maintain a
benevolent neutrality; but this I assured him would
not be allowed, and I pictured the ferocity of the
General in unspeakable terms. The difficulty seemed
to be that if Rutton Poia and his clan should take an
active part in our favour, the hostile tribes on the
retirement of the expedition would destroy him root
and branch.
I promised that at the close of the campaign he
THE LIUSHAI EXPEDITION. 397
should have a detachment of police in his village, if
he desired it; and by judiciously waving in the back-
ground the wrath of General Brownlow, he finally
consented to act with us. For the present, I under-
took to leave fifteen men to guard the chief's village,
as an open sign of British support, while he and his
clan agreed to afford full and loyal assistance in
whatever way it might be needed during the cam-
paign.
At the close of our long and animated conference,
which lasted far into the night, Rutton Poia's wife
brought her young son, a boy of about ten years old,
and solemnly placed his two hands folded between
mine, in token of his recognition of me as protector
and suzerain.
On returning to Demagree and reporting what had
passed to the General, he expressed himself satisfied,
and took the opportunity to say that, as my place
for the future would be with him at the front, it
would be necessary to appoint another officer to
superintend the work of the hill coolies, and he pur-
posed appointing Captain Hood to that duty. I
accordingly assembled the head men of the coolie
contingent and harangued them in their own tongue,
directing them to work loyally under Captain Hood,
and to pay the same respect and obedience to his
orders as they would to my own.
We had something of a scare in camp a few days
later, for news came that a large party of the enemy
had occupied the river in rear of us, with a view
to cutting our line of supplies and communication.
The hill coolies at Utan Chatra (half-way between
Demagree and Kassalong) had struck work, and talked
398 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
of returning to their homes, for the Khyoung-tha
feared the very name of Lushai, and even a report of
being cut off would create a panic. The news
reached camp at nightfall, and an hour or so later I
was on my way, with twenty men of the Frontier
Battalion, to see what was really the truth of the
matter. There was no moon, and we had a narrow
squeak for it in the rapids, one of the boats being
upset and four rifles lost; but no further damage was
done, and at daybreak I reached Utan Chatra.
My first care was to reassure the hill coolies, who
after a while calmed down and departed with a con-
voy for Demagree. On inquiry I found that a party
of armed men, said to be Lushais, had certainly been
seen crossing the river by a ford a few miles down
stream only the day before, and on going to the spot
I soon found a trail. We followed the traces of the
party through the jungle for two hours, until we
came to a spot where they had halted and cooked
food. Here on the ground some rice was discovered
which had been spilt, and this on inspection proved to
be our own commissariat rice, easily distinguishable
from the hill grain; therefore, as none of our grain
stores had been plundered, the party could not have
been Lushais, and were probably some of our own
coolies, who had absconded with their rations.
Leaving my Subadar, Mahomed Azim, to follow the
trail farther, I returned to Demagree.
The chief Wanpoia came in on the 2nd of Decem-
ber, and gave in his adhesion to our cause. He
reported that the Sylus were killing and eating their
guyals, and would most certainly oppose our advance.
He, like Rutton Poia, made an attempt to get a guard
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 399
for his own village, alleging that at the close of the
expedition he and his would be eaten up by the Sylus
and Howlongs for taking our side. I promised him
that a strong guard should be left at Demagree when
the campaign was over, which would protect him if
necessary.
I was much worried by the hill coolies, who would
do nothing without my personal orders; and none of
the officers of the expedition knowing the language,
I had not a moment's rest.
Our force was now augmented by the arrival of the
27th Punjaub Infantry, who had marched from Kassa-
long to Demagree through the jungle. It did one's
heart good to see so fine a body of men come down
the hill into camp, marching, like our Highland regi-
ments, to the music of the pipes. They gave the
“Pathan scream ” as they entered camp—a strange
noise that stirred the blood as if for fighting.
The captives, whose recovery was one of the main
objects of the expedition, were for the most part in
the hands of the Howlong tribe, between whom and
us interposed the Sylus, and it was clearly desirable
to secure the neutrality, if not the amity, of this latter
tribe, if it were in any way possible to do so; they
were, however, so suspicious and unapproachable
that all my efforts had hitherto failed. It therefore,
became necessary to obtain the services of someone
who would act as intermediary, and with this view,
on the 8th of December, I went to the village of a
small chief named Lengura, who was own brother to
one of the principal Sylu chiefs, but who, from ill-
luck or incapacity, was a person of comparative
insignificance. To my disappointment, I found the
400 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
village deserted ; but my men in routing about dis-
covered a pig, two guyals, and fifty maunds of un-
husked grain, so it was plain that the inhabitants'
departure was only temporary. I therefore left a
party in ambush, and towards nightfall was lucky
enough to capture the chief Lengura himself, who
returned to look for the guyal.
I spent a long time in endeavouring unsuccessfully
to secure his assistance ; he remained obstinately
deaf to all proposals, even casting on the ground at
my feet the money which I offered in exchange for
his pigs and guyal. After a day or two of close con-
finement he at length consented to act as our ambas-
sador, and accordingly I despatched him to the village
of a Sylu chief named Vanlula, which was within
easy distance of our camp, authorising him to say
that if our advance towards the Howlong country
were unopposed we would not harm the Sylu tribe.
In the evening I strolled in the same direction
which Lengura had gone, towards Vanlula's village,
hoping to gain admission ; but I had not advanced
far up the slope when a ball came whistling close by
my head, and I therefore accepted the hint and
returned to camp.
The head-quarters now moved up from Demagree,
and occupied a fresh camp on the Sahjuk stream close
to Vanlula's village. The General was not at all
well; but this was not surprising, as the hill climate
is very trying until the constitution becomes inured
to it. -
It was a remarkable sight at the close of a march
to see the speedy and dextrous manner in which the
hill men and the Ghurkhas would, in the twinkling of
THE LUSHAI ExPEDITION. 401
an eye, convert a dusky forest glade into a comfortable
village. At sundown we would halt in some secluded
glen; the arms were piled, and in a few moments the
air would be filled with the cutting of dao and kukri ;
the tangle of jungle would be cleared ; huts
built, thatched with leaves and walled with split
bamboos; fires lighted, and everyone within “a
measurable distance ’’ of comfort in less than half an
hour. There was not a tent of any sort with the
whole force; every ounce of dead weight that could
be carried was brought along in the shape of either
food or ammunition. For houses we depended on
our enemies, and in their default we were able to run
up very cosy shanties ourselves.
On the 13th of December Lengura returned, and
informed me that no less than five of the Sylu head-
men with their followers were assembled at Wanlula's,
and that, in reply to the message which he had
conveyed from me, they had desired him to request
that the expedition should at once leave the country:
on this condition only would they treat with us or
assist in recovering the captives; if we advanced any
farther they would attack us. Foolish folk! I re-
warded Lengura, and communicated his intelligence
to the General, whose practical reply was the issue
of orders to attack Vanlula's village the following
morning.
The advance was made in two parties under cover
of the morning mist. The right attack under Major
MacIntyre of the 2nd Ghurkhas was a feigned one;
and while the enemy’s attention was thus engaged,
the main body of the 2nd Ghurkhas, under Colonel
Macpherson, crested the hill on which the village was
26
402 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
built, and, charging with the bayonet, took the place
at a rush.
The enemy bolted, leaving one man dead, and
carrying away with them two or three more dead and
wounded. At the very first shot fired Vanlula set
fire to his village, which was almost wholly consumed
before we got possession of it ; among the burnt
houses we established ourselves as best we might,
and scouts were sent out to ascertain the enemy's
movements. They returned at sunset, reporting that
the Sylus had retreated northward, leaving signs of
a precipitate flight in the shape of various articles
dropped along the road and a dead body abandoned
in the retreat. Among other things was found a coat
belonging to a man of the Frontier Battalion who
had been killed by the Lushais a year before; also a
basket and other small things of Bengali workman-
ship. From this evidence we deduced that the Sylus
had been concerned in the raids upon British territory
which had caused the expedition ; this in some mea-
sure explained their persistent mistrust and hostility
towards us.
The General was still far from well, to the regret
of all, for he was a true leader of men, and gained the
confidence of everyone who was brought in contact
with him; but his indisposition was not allowed to
interfere with the work of the expedition, and he
marched on foot and directed everything just the
same as before.
It was determined to form a provision depôt at
Vanlula's, and parties were sent out in all directions,
to search for and bring in such hidden stores of grain
and other comestibles as were discoverable, it being
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 403
necessary to utilise, as far as practicable, the re-
sources of the country.
My position as a diplomatist began to cause me
considerable anxiety, for how was it possible to
recover the captives, or to enter into relations of a
friendly character with the Sylus, if they absolutely
declined all intercourse with us and confined them-
selves to a sullen hostility. Rutton Poia, who was
with me, was apparently on bad terms with them, as
neither he nor any of his men could be prevailed
upon to undertake an embassy. Moreover, we de-
pended for our food chiefly on supplies from Chitta-
gong, which had to be brought many weary miles
before reaching us. What should be done if, as
seemed probable, the enemy retired before us, burning
everything save the standing crops, and carrying
with them their live-stock and other comestibles 2
I went out in the early morning of December 19th
to think over some new plan; but sitting on the hill-
top, some two thousand feet high, so beautiful was
the sight before me that for the moment I forgot all
my perplexities, and could only rejoice in the grandeur
of the landscape spread out below.
The sun had just risen out of a wilderness of deli-
cately purpled peaks, which stretched towards the
east, and a keen cold breeze from thence seemed to
whisper a message of defiance from our enemies,
whose villages, perched like eyries on many an un-
known hill-top, could be clearly seen all around.
The whole Sylu country lay within striking distance
of our position, no less than six large villages being
within a day's march. Beyond these lay the How-
longs, living on still loftier heights, never trodden by
26 %
404 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
English feet, an undiscovered country, range upon
range stretching far away in the distance, even to the
confines of China.
Every valley around was filled with fleecy white
mist, which, like soft snowy wool, hid all beneath it,
and out of this, rose craggy eminences covered
sparsely with forest trees, while here and there, in
the morning sun, some Sylu clearing gleamed golden
with ripe corn. The far-off horizon was bounded by
a clearly defined dark purple range of hills, perhaps
twenty miles distant, and as the sun rose the mist
came pouring over this ridge and through the clefts of
the range like some gigantic Ocean, another deluge
dashing its waves in foamy cataract on an affrighted
world. So real did this seem to me for the moment
that I found myself thinking that had this white
foam been water, between me and death there could
have been but a short five minutes.
The climate, now that we had got up on the
heights, was simply delicious, and the General's
health began to mend rapidly. The air was bracing
and dry, developing one's appetite to an alarming
extent, the more so as from Dan to Beersheba all
was barren. After my usual solitary life in the hills,
I found the gay sociability of camp life very pleasant
and much enjoyed the daily change and adventure,
the nightly camp-fire with its round of song and story.
We were somewhat harassed by attempts on the
part of the Lushais to cut our line of communication.
One day they laid an ambush for the party bringing
the mail, and shot one of our Ghurkhas; but they did
not escape scatheless, for our men promptly retaliated
and killed two of their assailants.
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 405
On the 21st of December Colonel Macpherson
assaulted and took the village of Lal Hlira. We
watched the attack with much interest through field-
glasses, the village being on the next range of hills,
three or four miles off as the crow flies. There was
a great deal of firing, and the General was much
relieved when Macpherson telegraphed by flag-signal
that the attack had been made without any loss on
our side, although the enemy had suffered, and large
stores of grain had been captured.
At the same time, Major MacIntyre, with another
detachment, was busy to the northward, where he
burnt two villages and destroyed fifty-six granaries.
One of these villages was strongly stockaded, but
was abandoned by the Sylus without any serious
attempt at defence. Some cattle also were captured,
which proved a welcome addition to the commissariat.
I meanwhile busied myself in endeavouring to
communicate with the Sylus. Conversations were
sometimes held between us, across a valley, by shout-
ing. The burden of my song was always, “Make
submission, and we will cease from troubling you”;
but I received no satisfactory reply, nor was any
result attained.
Christmas Day was observed in camp in true
English fashion. General Brownlow invited all
the officers of the advanced column to dine with
him, and to our great astonishment, among other
good things, a miraculous plum-pudding graced the
board. I obtained the recipe afterwards from Major
East, Assistant Quartermaster-General, who had
evolved the same from his inner consciousness, as
follows: one pot of marmalade, one pot of black-
406 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
currant jam, some guyal suet, and a sufficiency of
biscuit pounded fine, together with a tablespoonful
of essence of ginger ; the whole boiled for two hours,
and served with a few spoonfuls of burning brandy.
Result, beatific
The next day we moved forward and occupied
the village of the Sylu chief, Van Hnoya, meeting
with no opposition. This village was a large one,
consisting of about three hundred houses, and
was remarkable for having in its vicinity a large
sacrificial altar of curiously carved stone, decked
with a varied collection of the skulls of the different
animals which had been offered thereon. I could
find no human skulls among them.
Soon after our entry into Van Hnoya's village,
the villages of Van Kunga and Van Hnuna, which
were in sight, were set on fire by their inhabitants.
I had sent on a party of picked men, and some of
Rutton Poia's Lushais, to parley with them, and
prevent this useless destruction ; but in vain.
Day after day passed by as we pursued our
course, marching farther and farther into the
bowels of the land, until by the end of the month
we had reached the great Towrang Tlang range,
where the General hoped to obtain some tidings of
the other column. The enemy always pursued the
same unsatisfactory tactics ; they fought as little as
possible, but burned their villages on our approach,
retiring with all they could carry. They hailed us
out of the jungle one day, saying, “Do not destroy
our grain.”
“Let your chiefs come in, then,” I rejoined,
“and make submission.”
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 407
“No, no, no,” was the reply. “Go your ways ;
leave our country. We have nothing for you but
powder and ball, and plenty of that.” Brave words
these ! but nothing else.
At the General’s request I caused proclamations
to be prepared, written in Burmese and Bengali,
setting forth that our object in invading the country
was to effect the release of certain of Her Majesty's
subjects, who were held in captivity by the Lushais,
and inviting the tribes to send emissaries to treat
with us. These proclamations were left, nailed up
in conspicuous positions, at every place we visited ;
but as the Lushais could neither read nor write, I
did not anticipate much effect from this step, unless
their curiosity should induce them to employ some
literary captive to investigate the mysterious magic
papers which the invaders were sowing broadcast
about the country. Otherwise, the proclamations
would certainly be regarded as magical formulae,
intended to bring disease and pestilence among the
people, and would be looked upon merely as an addi-
tional incentive to hostility.
One of our little Ghurkha soldiers was caught,
while out scouting, in a Lushai deer-trap. The
trap consisted of a stout young tree bent down as a
springe, with a loop outspread. Into this loop the
man unwittingly thrust his foot, and was at once
jerked high into the air, kicking lustily. His
comrades soon set him free by cutting the thong
which held him, and he escaped with the fright and
a bad sprain.
The weather grew colder and colder, the nights and
mornings being truly Chrismatic ; but the general
408 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
health of the force was good, in spite of a very
limited scale of diet.
On the 2nd of January the General and I ascended
the Towrang range, hoping to discern some sign of
General Bourchier's column ; but we gained nothing
by our climb, save a grand view of the surrounding
country. Sylu Savung, the largest village of the Sylu
tribe, and the residence of their head chief, Savunga,
lay in full view not more than ten miles off, sepa-
rated from us only by a deep valley, which was
curiously intersected by the head-waters of three
rivers, two of which ran northwards to Cachar, and
the third bent south to join the Karna-phuli river.
Far away to the east we saw the villages of the
Howlongs, while about eight miles to the north lay
the strongly-stockaded village of Lal Ngora, eldest
son of Savunga, which the General determined to
attack and destroy.
The following day, therefore, Captain Battye of
the 2nd Ghurkhas, with two companies of that
regiment, was sent to reconnoitre in the direction
of Lal Ngora's village, and reported that it was
held in force by the enemy, who apparently meant
fighting.
The next day the attack was made by the whole
of Colonel Macpherson’s regiment, and the place
taken by storm. Major MacIntyre led the assault,
and was the first man over the stockade. We lost
one Ghurkha killed, and nine wounded. Captain
Battye also was slightly wounded in the attack.
The village was burnt and a large quantity of grain
destroyed.
That night the Sylus approached our camp in the
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 409
darkness and held a parley with me. They said
that their head chief Savunga wished to come in
immediately with a peace-offering of elephants’ tusks.
I replied that he might do so with safety, but that
until he did, the progress of the expedition would
not be stayed. I added that their villages and crops
would be spared if no resistance were offered.
Rutton Poia was with me during this nocturnal
colloquy, and he promptly suggested that, if Savunga
came in, it would be wise to chop off his head and
put it on a pole. So much for Lushai faith ! No
wonder they were suspicious. We halted all the next
day to see if anything would come of this overture,
but the Sylus still made no sign.
We advanced upon Savunga's village on the 6th
of January. The road was very difficult, being
blocked by huge boulders, and leading ever up and
down, first along a ridge, then plunging down a
thousand feet into a valley, where we waded and
stumbled for an hour or more along the bed of
a torrent, then up once more to the heights, and
SO OIle
On arriving at a “jum,” or clearing, within about
nine hundred yards of a small outlying village, we
saw that it was filled with armed men, and the
General thought this a favourable opportunity for
showing the Lushais the force of our guns, which
had hitherto not been employed. Fifty Ghurkhas
were sent forward skirmishing straight to the front,
while the mountain-battery (of which Colonel James
Hills was the commandant) was directed to open fire
over their heads. The small seven-pounder steel
guns, unscrewed into two pieces, had been painfully
410 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
carried along on the shoulders of coolies; but now ^.
they were quickly put together, and in an incredibly
short space of time were making beautiful shell-
practice at the village, which was crowded with
armed Lushais.
Having never seen a big gun fired before, the
enemy’s consternation was great, and as the first
shell burst over their heads all scattered helter-
skelter, abandoning the village, and fleeing for their
lives in all directions.
“It is wonderful l’’ remarked Rutton Poia.
“You fire one gun out of another. No one could
withstand it.”
On mounting to the village, we found that the
enemy had prepared for us an artful avalanche of
rocks, which was to have swept the path leading up-
wards; and also a goodly store of spears, arrows,
and other missiles, to be hurled upon our devoted
heads ; but they had reckoned without our seven-
pounders, and their designs came to naught.
The same day some of my men, whom I had sent
out scouting into the jungle, in the vain hope that
they might capture some Sylu man who would serve
as envoy, discovered and brought in to me four fine
gongs of Chinese workmanship.
The next morning, early, the great village of Sylu
Savung burst into flames. The encounter of the day
before had apparently convinced the Sylus that they
had no chance against us in fighting ; and on the
11th of January we occupied the site of their chief
village without any further opposition.
There was now but one village of the Sylu tribe
left standing, that of Lal Jika, the youngest son of
THE LUSHAI ExPEDITION. 411
Savunga ; all the rest had been burned by their own
inhabitants, or taken by us. This tribe, therefore,
might be considered as subjugated, and we accord-
ingly turned our attention next to the recovering
of the captives from the Howlongs, whose villages
were now in full view, and within striking distance.
The Government of India had been pressing the
General to avoid any unnecessary destruction of
villages or crops, although, I confess, I could not
see how this could be avoided, or what could have
been done other than what had been done. Still,
the Governor-General's wishes were law, and I deter-
mined, at the General's request, to undertake a peace-
ful embassy to the Howlongs before the first blow
should be struck against them.
I started, therefore, on the 13th of January,
taking with me Rutton Poia and his Lushais,
together with an escort of fifty Ghurkhas, bound for
the nearest Howlong village, which was plainly
visible from our camp. As we drew near, the inha-
bitants of the village discovered our approach, and,
to my dismay, followed their usual procedure and set
fire to the place.
Rutton Poia looked very grave at this unmis-
takeable declaration of hostility, and forthwith
declined to proceed any farther, saying that the
only method of peaceful approach to the Howlongs
was by the rear. He proposed that we should at
once return to Savunga's, whence he would pass by
a long detour to the south, and only thus be able
to gain access to Benkuia and Sangbúnga, the two
brothers who ruled the Howlong tribe. This pro-
posal involved much delay ; but I saw no other
412 A Fly ON THE WHEEL.
course, and, to my regret, we had to return to
Sylu Savung, and report the failure of our mission
to General Brownlow.
Much against his inclination, the General agreed
to halt at Sylu Savung, while Rutton Poia set off
on his roundabout journey, accompanied by Subadar
Mahomed Azim, one of the most intelligent officers
of the Frontier Battalion.
The chief was directed to inform the Howlongs
that the only basis upon which we would treat
with them was the unconditional release of all the
captives, together with free access for ourselves to
the Howlong country; otherwise we should attack.
We had then to await the result ; and, indeed, both
officers and men needed rest, for, although the
campaign was not very arduous as far as fighting
was concerned, still enormous distances had been
traversed over the roughest ground, the soldiers
carrying heavy weights in the shape of clothing and
ammunition. Hard fare also had been our portion
in this savage and inhospitable country, the English
officers, for instance, having subsisted on a diet of
chapatis, tinned mutton, and rum. The General
himself fared no better than the rest of the force,
and the general health of all began to suffer from
want of change in the diet.
There was no grumbling, however, unless the
universal and heart-felt aspiration to make an end
of the business could be construed into a complaint.
While awaiting the result of Rutton Poia's mission,
the General turned his attention to the last remaining
village of the recalcitrant Sylus, who had as yet made
no sign of substantial submission. This was, as I
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 413
have said, the village of Lal Jika, youngest son of
the chief Savunga, and here, if anywhere, the tribe
might be expected to show fight.
General Brownlow, having reconnoitred the place
and determined upon his course of action, delivered
the attack on the 21st of January. We started at
8.30 A.M. to avoid the mists of the early morning,
and marching along, at one o'clock found our road
stopped by a stockade. While the guns were being
got up, an extension was made by both flanks to
turn the enemy's position, perceiving which, the
Lushais let fall about our ears an avalanche of rocks
and stones which they had in readiness, but which
fortunately did little damage. They then abandoned
the stockade and retreated to their village.
Our advance was continued, and at a distance of
seven hundred yards, Colonel Hills' small seven-
pound rifled guns opened fire with shell and shrapnel.
This made a clearance of the Lushais, who fled in
dismay before these new and terrible projectiles, and
we occupied the place without loss. It was a strong
position, most elaborately stockaded, and, but for
the guns, we must have suffered severely in cap-
turing it.
Having destroyed the crops and granaries in the
vicinity, we returned to our camp at Sylu Savung.
Here I was met by the glad tidings that my am-
bassador, Rutton Poia, had effected the release of
Mary Winchester, and had delivered the child into
the keeping of Colonel Tytler, of the 4th Ghurkhas,
who commanded at Demagree, by whom she had been
despatched to Calcutta vid Chittagong.
Mary Winchester was described as being a pretty
414 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
child of about six years old, fair complexioned, with
hazel eyes and European features. The officer who
was sent by Colonel Tytler to take her over from
Rutton Poia, found the little maid sitting on the
log platform of the chief's house, having for clothing
only a blue rag round her loins, and with a pipe in
her mouth, issuing sententious commands to a troop
of small boys who were disporting themselves before
her.
She appeared, during her long stay with her kid-
nappers, to have altogether forgotten the English
language; but on the officer fumbling in his pocket,
and demanding whether she would like to have a
sweetie, her memory at once responded to this
ancient and familiar question, and she held out her
hand, showing that she understood what had been
said. -
She was duly made over to her friends in Cal-
cutta, and from there was sent to Scotland, where I
believe her father's relatives resided. Ten years
afterwards her name appeared among the list of
those who had creditably passed an examination at
the Royal Moray College. It was curious to con-
sider that, but for a chain of unlikely events, she
might have been the bride of some dusky Lushai
chief, wearing a scanty kirtle and an amber neck-
lace
Further, I was informed that the chief Rutton
Poia, having succeeded so far in his embassy, had
departed with all speed to the Northern Howlongs,
whose villages now confronted us, and he particularly
requested that we would abstain from hostilities, as
otherwise his safety might be jeopardised.
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 415
The General chafed like a caged lion at this
forced inaction, which he was compelled to endure;
for it would have been but poor satisfaction to
undertake a military promenade through the How-
long country, as we had already done through Sylu-
land, and then to have to retire without recovering
the remainder of the captives; and as, moreover, I
had pledged my faith to Rutton Poia, it was agreed
to wait for one week more before entering the
Howlong territory.
A night or two afterwards, as we were sitting in
the General's hut playing a rubber after dinner,
we heard two shots fired in quick succession, fol-
lowed by the scream of a wounded man; then more
shots, sharp and quick, as our men fired in reply.
The whole encampment was astir in a moment, like
a disturbed ants’ nest. The hum of voices and the
clank of hastily-donned accoutrements were heard on
all sides.
We found that the Lushais had stolen up through
the jungle, under cover of the darkness, and had
shot one of our sentries, sending a charge of slugs
into his chest at twenty paces distance, and then
had promptly scuttled off. Our poor fellow was
badly hurt, and at the time it was believed that
medical aid could do nothing to save him.
Returning to the hut, we could not resume the
rubber, but smoked an angry pipe, grieved at the loss
of a good soldier in so cowardly a fashion. I may add
here, however, that the little Ghurkha, who was shot
through the lungs, did not die of his wound, his life
being saved by the unwearied attention and skill of
Dr. Allen, the medical officer of the 2nd Ghurkhas ;
416 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
but, as they say in the East, the lad’s “kismet ’’ was
bad, for he had no sooner recovered from the charge
of slugs in his lungs, than he was attacked by
cholera, and died before the end of the year.
The conversation running on night attacks, General
Brownlow related some of his experiences of that
kind on the North-Western Frontier.
During the Ambeyla campaign he had been be-
leaguered one starlight night by countless Afghans,
who yelled and fought for six hours, in their endea-
vour to turn him out of a small breastwork of loose
stones held by a picquet of his old regiment, the
20th Punjaub Infantry, about one hundred strong.
The position, on a commanding knoll, was a good
one, and the enemy dashed themselves against it in
vain, being driven back time after time with much
loss. After one of the most determined of these
... onslaughts there was a lull and a silence, which was
broken by a voice close to the picquet proposing a
suspension of hostilities and a song. The object was
probably to gain time to carry off the killed and
wounded; but most of the men of the 20th happened
to be Pathans, and the incident was so much to their
taste that they broke into a shout of applause and
begged the General to give the order “Cease firing,”
which he accordingly did.
Then from behind his sheltering rock the Bajowrie
(for he gave his name and clan as well as a pledge to
enlist in the 20th at the close of the campaign)
immediately began a wild weird song of love and
war, that indicated the throat and lungs as well as the
heart of a free-born mountaineer. He had no sooner
ended than two young Afridis of the regiment sprang
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 417
on to the parapet of the breastwork, and sitting out-
lined against the sky, a target for a thousand match-
locks, replied in a duet of equal sound and melody,
not a shot being fired at them.
As the last words of the song died on their lips
they jumped back under cover, with the plaudits of
both sides, and the promise of the Order of Merit
as a reward for their music and their valour.
A few playful remarks of mutual defiance were
followed by the warning from without that it was
time to resume business, and emphasised by a storm
of bullets and renewed attacks that lasted until day-
light, when the enemy withdrew, and the exhausted
picquet was relieved and returned to its bivouac
below. º
This same outpost, known to history as the “Crag
picquet,” and on which the safety of the whole camp
depended, was twice subsequently carried by the
enemy sword in hand, and on each occasion its cap-
ture and recapture cost the British force upwards of
a hundred killed and wounded, Sir Neville Chamber-
lain (the General Commanding), and Colonel Hope,
of the 71st Highlanders, being among those who were
badly hit in the last of these Homeric contests.
Our Lushai opponents, however, were not of this
kidney, but like the mosquito, although contemptible,
they were annoying. On another occasion they came
creeping up the hill-side to the house where I was
sleeping, and fired through the floor (the house being
raised on piles, Lushai fashion), without, however,
doing any harm. The campaign, we hoped, would
be finished in three weeks' time, for after the expira-
tion of the week for which I had stipulated, the
27
418 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
General intended to take a stretch out with a flying
column, severing for the time being his communication
with the rear.
General Bourchier, who commanded the left
column, had set out from Cachar at the same time as
the right column left Kassalong, and we had hoped
ere this to have seen or heard some signs of his
advance. Even if a junction could not have been
effected, it would have cleared our brains, topographi-
cally speaking, to have opened communication with
the other column. The country between us was un-
known and unmapped, and it was impossible to say
what distance apart we might be.
To tell the truth, as the days dragged their slow
length along, we all became very ill-tempered. A
soldier can endure anything better than inaction, and
here, waiting at Sylu Savung, there was nothing to
do, nothing to see, nothing to read, nothing to eat;
there was not even any news.
Our clothes were worn threadbare; our boots were
in holes; the shanties we lived in were bitterly cold,
and the ground on which we lay at night was so hard
that sleep was impossible ; even the songs at evening
were hushed in mournful silence, and the last good
story had been told. So, faute de mieuw, the
whole camp began to look sourly upon the political
officer to whose cursed diplomacy this deplorable con-
dition of things was attributable ; the Government,
in letters from Calcutta, began to cavil at the delay
in carrying out the objects of the expedition; and
even General Brownlow (worst blow of all) began to
regret that he had yielded to my representations.
I had, at any rate, acted according to the best of
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 419
my judgment, although success alone could justify
my course, bringing with it the sunshine of official
approbation and the star-shine of decoration on manly
breasts. Surely the desire of “the moth for the
star’’ is as nothing compared with that of the soldier
for his bit of ribbon, and the monarch who first
invented this mode of distinction must have been a
keen observer of the weaknesses of human nature.
For a leg lost in battle, a metal cross! the services of
a lifetime repaid amply by a bit of tinsel frippery;
and so long as a king has a yard of ribbon left he
will always find men of the best and bravest sort
ready to give their lives in exchange.
The end of the week came at length, and the
General would wait no longer, nor, indeed, could I
avouch that diplomacy had not received a fair trial.
Nothing more was heard of Rutton Poia, and there
remained now only the argument of the sword.
We started with our faces set against the How-
longs on the 12th of February 1872. Our small
force consisted of three hundred Ghurkhas, with the
two mountain guns and half a company of Sappers.
The path descended first some 2,300 feet into the
valley of the Dalesari stream ; then rose for 1,300
feet, leading along a ridge for some distance ; then
another plunge of 1,000 feet into the bed of another
hill-stream, whence a final ascent of 1,600 feet
brought us out on to a rolling upland—the country
of the Howlongs. - -
When we had to march long distances through
water it was my custom to go barefoot. This was at
first regarded by the officers of the force merely as
eccentricity, but experience, hard stones, muddy
27 ±
420 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
water, and long marches combined, proved potent
arguments in favour of surefootedness versus shoe-
leather, and convinced many of the expediency of
following my example. -
We camped for the night soon after our final
ascent, and the next morning Captain East, our
Assistant Quartermaster-General, and I went out
together reconnoitring; after proceeding some dis-,
tance we saw on some rising ground to our left the
smoking ruins of a village, which, in due course, had
been burnt by its inhabitants on our advance the day
before. The knoll on which the village had stood,
however, was now crowded with Lushais, and on our
hailing them a friendly dialogue ensued. To my
infinite satisfaction, they professed a desire for peace,
and said that their chiefs were quite willing to release
the captives. “Go then,” I said, “fetch your chiefs;
let them bring the captives and arrange matters.
We will do you no harm then.”
Returning to camp, we reported the occurrence to
the General, who was as pleased as we were at the
turn things seemed likely to take. Our force moved
on, however, in spite of fair words, to a village
called Chongmama, to the east of which, at a distance
of two days' march, lay the villages of Benkuia and
Sangbúnga, the head chiefs of the Howlong tribe,
and within easy striking distance of four other
large villages, aggregating, perhaps, a thousand
dwellings.
We found in the jungles round Chongmama nume-
rous huts, which had been erected by the burnt-out
Sylus, with stores of grain and other things. These
we carefully left untouched, as sufficient punishment
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 421
had been inflicted on that tribe. It was ascertained
from the Howlongs that General Bourchier's column
was distant about four days’ journey to the east; our
General, therefore, abandoned all hope of effecting a
junction, or even communicating with the left column,
as we were at the extreme end of our tether and
lofty ranges of hills intervened.
On the 15th the General sent out two reconnoi-
tring parties: one under Major MacIntyre, which
returned after some hours with full information as to
the roads and passes northwards ; the second party,
under Captain Battye, went east, and soon after sent
back a messenger to the General, reporting that a mile
below camp was a stream, the passage of which was
barred by large bodies of armed Lushais. Were
they to force the passage or not ? The General
ordered the party to return, and sent me down to
parley with the enemy. I found the ford guarded
by Benkuia's men, that being the direct road to the
chief's village. I bade them go and fetch their chiefs
quickly, and that I would be personally responsible
for their safety. In my own mind I felt convinced
that Rutton Poia's embassy by the rear had been suc-
cessful, and that the Howlongs meant to submit;
their own innate treachery, however, made them sus-
picious of us.
That night, as I lay asleep in my hut, a voice came
to me out of the darkness, close to my head.
“Thangliena!” (Lushai paraphrase of Tom Lewin)
“Thanglienal Is it peace P”
I made no reply. The voice continued—
“The great chiefs will be at the Tuldung stream
to-morrow at dawn, but you must come alone, without
422 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
9
any soldiers.’
you hear?”
“I hear,” I replied, groping for my revolver, and
cautiously emerging from my shelter to hold further
parley with the mysterious speaker, but there was
nothing. All was silent, and there was only the dark
night and the keen wind, with the sound of my own
men snoring. The messenger, a Lushai, evidently
had crept past our sentries, done his errand, and was
gone ; so I lit a pipe, and sat down to think over the
situation.
I knew that the General would object to my going
alone to the meeting as proposed, for if it should turn
out to be a ruse, and I were captured and carried off as
a hostage by the Lushais, the last state of things would
be worse than the first. Again, if I went to the
rendezvous with a body of soldiers, the chiefs would
suspect treachery and probably would not appear.
However, I had been successful before, in my
dealings with the hill men, even when I had no
avenging force at my back; and now my necessity
was greater, for I had my policy to justify. The mere
thought of failure was insupportable. My whole expe-
rience led me to believe that these people could not
understand or realise a complex governing machine
like ours. They needed personal dealing, personal
authority, personal promises. After all, I had played
with my life for much smaller stakes, so I deter-
mined to go.
In the early morning, before the camp was well
awake, I set off down the hill path leading to the
Tuldung; after going about half a mile I heard a
sound behind me, and glancing round, found that I
A pause; then—“Thangliena! do
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 423
was followed by an armed Lushai; a little farther on,
another man issued from the jungle and joined the
first, then another, until at last I was followed by ten
or twelve of the Howlongs.
I took no notice whatever of my following, but
marched steadily on; down went the path, steeper
and steeper, until at length I reached a black slow-
flowing stream, the Tuldung. Across this a rough
bridge had been thrown by felling a large tree, the
trunk of which lay across from bank to bank a dis-
tance of eighteen or twenty feet. On the opposite side
of the stream the ground rose again abruptly, and I
saw standing there tier on tier of Lushais, in serried
crowd, armed with guns and bristling with spears.
My heart was beating a good deal faster than it
should have done ; but there was only one course
possible, so I tightened my belt with a hitch and went
on steadily over the bridge. The passage of that
narrow slippery tree-trunk across the deep dark
stream, with the rows of strange hostile faces looking
down on me, I shall never forget.
As I reached the other side, a venerable white-
bearded Lushai met me and took me by the hand;
two other men, bearing light canes, made a passage
for us through the crowd, striking the people, and
chiding them back, and so I was led to the chiefs.
They were sitting in a circle, a little distance back
from the stream, in a small forest glade, and around
them surged myriads of Lushais ; the jungle was
like an ants' nest. As I was led forward by my
white-bearded conductor, there was a cry from the
crowd of “Thangliena | Thangliena' "
The chiefs rose and received me, I inquired which
424 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
was Sangbinga; he came forward, and in an agitated
manner put his own gun into my hands, while his
brother, Benkuia, took a short sword from his waist
and hung it about my neck. Fortunately I had on
me some valuable arms, a sword and a silver-mounted
dagger taken long before in the Mutiny, and these I
presented gravely as return gifts. Then we seated
ourselves.
I felt inexpressibly relieved; they were evidently
in a great fright, so I consequently ceased to be ner-
vous. The game was won; the campaign was at an
end.
I was able to speak some Lushai myself, and the
the chief’s “karbaris” were acquainted with bazaar
Bengali, so I had little difficulty in communicating to
Sangbúnga and his brother the terms on which alone
peace could be concluded. It was necessary, I told
them, first that they should give up all British sub-
jects whom they held captive, or account for them,
according to lists which I had in my possession; also
free and friendly access to their villages both now
and in future must be granted to us; and further, I
required them to take a solemn oath to abstain from
making any raids in future upon British territory.
If they complied with these conditions our force
would be withdrawn.
After some consultation, the chiefs replied that
they had heard my words with satisfaction, and that
their desire was to have peace. They promised to
send a definitive answer to my demands on the
morrow. - -
Just at that moment I heard the tramp, tramp of
our Ghurkhas coming down the path on the other
THE LUSHA1 EXPEDITION. 425
side of the stream, and some of the Lushais ran up
shouting that the soldiers were coming. For a mo-
ment a look passed round the circle, just a glint of
the eyes, which gave me a cold feeling down my back.
But I explained that the soldiers would not cross the
stream, and had probably been sent by the great
General Sahib to escort me back; and so we parted
with many expressions of amity and good will.
On my return to camp I had infinite pleasure in
reporting to the General all that had passed, and he,
with the generosity which is his chief characteristic,
after expressing his satisfaction at the turn matters
had taken, was so good as to say that he left the entire
management of the affair in my hands. This was
just what I desired, for by personally concluding a
treaty with the Howlongs, backed by an avenging
force, I felt that my influence would be greatly en-
hanced in any future dealings I might have with
them after the expedition was over.
On the 18th of February I swore the indispensable
oath by blood and steel with the Howlong chiefs, and
they presented to Government a peace-offering of
elephant tusks, home-spun cloth, guyals, &c.; and the
day following the first instalment of captives was sent
in, with the promise that the rest, who were scattered
in distant villages, should be collected and delivered
up as soon as possible. -
The camp now swarmed with picturesque Lushais,
men, women, and children, bringing for sale eggs,
fowls, cloths, pipes, and other local wares, and gazing
with infinite curiosity on their quondam enemies.
In accordance with our newly-made agreement, the
General at once despatched a detachment of Ghurkhas
426 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and an officer of the Survey Department, to visit the
village of Benkuia and others in the neighbourhood,
and thus assert our right of free entry. The Survey
officer took with him the necessary instruments to
map the country that was to be visited.
Everyone was in high good humour, for the
expedition was practically concluded, having gained
nearly all the ends which had been proposed for it.
But alas ! our sunshine was soon heavily clouded,
for on the 18th of February the news reached camp
that the Governor-General, Lord Mayo, had been
assassinated while visiting the Andaman Islands.
We could hardly realise it. Nothing else was
spoken of ; nothing else filled the thoughts of all.
The remembrance of this cruel deed, the outcome
of a madman’s vindictive broodings, rose at every
moment to dash the satisfaction which we should
otherwise have experienced in the successful con-
clusion of the campaign.
The General issued a Brigade Order on the
subject, and it is not too much to say that the
brief but sorrowful notification found an echo in
the heart of every man in the command. It was,
indeed, the Governor-General’s own campaign,
determined on and watched over by himself, and,
only the week before, our General had received
a kindly telegram from Lord Mayo, personally con-
gratulating him and his force on the success which
had attended their efforts.
Except for this misfortune, all went well with us.
The Sylus came in and made terms, delivering up
their captives (for they too had some), and swearing
perpetual amity. They had suffered heavily, they
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 427
said, and were now afraid that, when the expedition
withdrew, they would be attacked and broken up by
the Howlongs. This fear of theirs was soon after
confirmed, as Benkuia sent word to me that he had
expelled all fugitive Sylus from his country, and
that, if we desired it, he would forthwith attack
Savunga.
The detachment which had gone to Benkuia's vil-
lage returned on the 22nd, having been received with
effusion in all the Howlong villages they had visited.
Provisions of all sorts had been profusely supplied
to them, and they had even been serenaded at night
with sweet music.
There was nothing to detain us any longer, and
accordingly, the whole force returned to Demagree,
whence the General made a demonstration against
the Southern Howlongs, forcing them also to give
up some captives, and to make submission; and this
ended the campaign.
The outward appearance of the whole force at the
conclusion of our work was eminently ridiculous,
emulating, indeed, the plight of Billy Barlow, who,
as the song records, had but one boot and one shoe.
Many had purchased cloth from the Lushais, and
made themselves garments of home-spun, of curious
cut, while rags and tatters were the order of the day
with the majority.
The General was, on the whole, favourably im-
pressed by our late enemies, the Lushais, and
expressed his opinion in a despatch as follows :
The Lushai will bear comparison with most eastern races in
physique, natural intelligence and character; their thews and
sinews and their well-turned limbs indicate health and freedoul
428 A Ff.Y ON THE WHEEL.
from want or excessive toil; their faces indicate a happy genial
disposition without any expression of cruelty or want of
courage.
What struck me most among them was the con-
tentment and well-being of their lives, as compared
with the feverish anxieties of civilized life. In-
voluntarily I contrasted their ignorant happiness
with our own laboured learning, and their simplicity
with the vices which are to be found in even the
most polished European society.
They occupy a country of wood and dale, having
an almost Italian climate. Every man is equal ; the
chiefs only having rule in matters relating to the
general good ; indeed, should a chief attempt to
enlarge his authority, he is speedily brought to his
senses by the desertion of his people, who at once
seek some less ambitious leader.
They cultivate the earth sufficiently for their
wants, and, with less labour than a Bengali peasant
undergoes in a month, they can raise enough food
for a year. Bound are they by no code of laws,
for the chief end of law is to secure property, and
they have none which they fear to lose, nor do they
desire more ; for them, therefore, to submit to laws
would be to undergo an obligation with no prospect
of reward.
They require no knowledge other than what they
have ; they know how to sow and when to reap ;
they have their own pharmacopoeia of simples, herbs
and roots; their women weave warm cloth ; and
cunning are the snares by which they entangle all
sorts of animals, few be there that escape the pot.
In a word, they know what is necessary for their
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 429
happiness and well-being ; to know more than this
would make them unhappy.
Ignorance is the happiness of the poor. We
English people are like some good old country dame
with a turn for doctoring, who is always trying to
force her nostrum down people's throats. With us,
civilization is the antidote for all earthly ills, and to
all with whom we come in contact we preach dili-
gently the gospel of chimney-pot hats and Poor Law
Boards, forgetting that these things, like all else in
this world, have a genesis and slow progression of
their own, which must be painfully followed from
the beginning. * *
No Oriental race can be pitch-forked to the
august altitude which we have ourselves attained,
and neither competitive examinations, nor School
Boards, nor Municipal Government, nor Ilbert Bills,
are sufficient to alter the laws of Nature, which,
depend upon it, will prevail unto the end—even to
the end of the Liberal or all other Governments.
Well enough of digression. The campaign was
ended, and the last days of March saw the General
and all his officers on their way to Chittagong, en
route for Calcutta. I had been so closely connected
with them all for the last four months, that I felt
rather solitary when I bade them all good-bye,
and prepared to resume charge of my own duties
as Deputy-Commissioner of the Chittagong Hill
Tracts.
The results of those four months may be summed
up very briefly: We had recovered Mary Winchester,
and released from captivity upwards of one hundred
British subjects ; two powerful tribes had been
480 A FLY ON THE WHEREL.
*.
effectually subjugated, and twenty of their villages
which had offered resistance had been destroyed,
while the principal chiefs of those tribes had per-
sonally tendered their submission, and entered into
solemn engagements with us for future good be-
haviour. These were no inconsiderable results to
have attained, and it was probable that the frontier
would, in consequence, have peace for some years to
come—might, indeed, be permanently pacificated, if
the effects of the present expedition were fostered
and allowed to take root in men's minds, instead of
dying away, as they certainly would if we merely
withdrew to our old position again ; but of this I
shall speak more presently. -
The General was pleased to speak highly of my
services during the campaign. He has given me
permission to quote his letters, and, as these pages
are mainly written for my children and my friends,
I may, perhaps, be forgiven for thus publishing my
own praises. I have this further excuse, that these
pleasant words of praise were my sole reward ; and,
as not only the leading officers in the expedition
were either decorated or promoted at the close of
the campaign, but the political officer with the left
column, who held a precisely similar position to
myself, received the Star of India for his services,
many of my friends thought and said that the
omission of my name in the roll of honour must
have arisen from some fault of omission or com-
mission on my part. I crave indulgence, therefore,
and, as I have faithfully set down the admonitions
and rebukes which from time to time have fallen to
my share, so now I venture to record the words of
THE LUSHAI EXPEDITION. 431
kindness and approbation which were accorded by
the General under whom I served. -
General Brownlow's despatch, reporting to Govern-
ment the results attained by the expedition under
his command, contained the following paragraph :
Political and military considerations have been so mixed up
in the conduct of this expedition that, though I have been com-
pelled to refer a good deal to the former, the very able civil
officer with whom I have been associated, in endeavouring to
carry out the objects of Government, will submit in his own
department a full report, showing the important part he has so
successfully played. It is due to Captain Lewin's strong per-
sonal influence over these tribes, his knowledge of their
language and habits, added to his patience and sagacity in
dealing with them, that a single chief submitted or a single
captive was recovered. In expressing my thanks and acknow-
ledgments for the assistance I have received from him, I am
bound to record my belief that, if he were located with two or
three hundred men for the next year on the Demagree range,
while the impression of our power and the friendliness of our
intentions are still fresh, he would bring the Sylus and the
Howlongs into the same relations with us as Rutton Poia and
his men, to the permanent pacification of at least a portion of
this frontier.
The remarks of the Indian Press also upon the
expedition gave the public impression at the time.
I record one extract only, from the “Observer,” a
Calcutta paper of high repute :
About the middle of February, when General Bourchier's
column was reduced to four hundred, and General Brownlow's
to a still smaller number of fighting men, not a single blow
had been struck against the most powerful and numerous of all
the tribes the Expedition had been directed to operate against,
viz. the Howlongs; who, having burned their villages and
removed their herds and other property beyond the reach of
our troops, were awaiting them in armed array in the passes
and ravines that led to their country. -
4.32 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
General Brownlow did not attempt the conquest of this tribe;
he had neither troops nor time to do so, and General Bourchier,
by detouring so far to the east as he had done, put it out of
his power to co-operate effectually or at all with the Chittagong
column. -
Now this quandary, and quandary it certainly was, would
have been altogether obviated had the Chittagong column been
originally made so much the stronger of the two that one
portion of it could have pushed east into the Howlong country,
while the other was advancing northwards beyond Savunga.
As things turned out, the Howlongs did send in their submis-
sion, or, at least, professions of amity, but even that much they
would not have consented to but for the influence over them,
not of our columns, but of a political officer, Captain Lewin–
but for whose tact and good luck on the occasion, both the
columns would have had to return to quarters with the satis-
faction of knowing that they had left the work of the Expedi-
tion unfinished, and perhaps so much so that another expe-
dition to reduce the Howlongs would still be a necessity.
The military commanders did their work well, but assuredly
it was the political officer with the Right Column who gave to
the Expedition its claim to be considered to have completely
effected all that had been expected of it.
So much for my own justification. Had Lord
Mayo lived to see the successful conclusion of the
campaign which he himself inaugurated, doubtless
he would have remembered the words of encourage-
ment and promise which he vouchsafed to me. But
it has been well said: “Truly I am an unprofitable
servant. I have done that which it was my duty
to do.”
433
CHAPTER, XIII.
CONCLUSION.
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SIRTHAY.
“THE HOUSE WHICH MY FRIENDS THE LUSHAIS HAD BUILT FOR ME
º
wAs constructED of ROUGH UNHEWN LOGs.’
IT was pleasant on the breezy heights above Dema-
gree, with the slumberous murmur of the bees around
me, and the odour of the wild thyme floating in the

28
434 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
air, to lie on a soft couch of husked-rice straw, in the
shadow of an old “jum ” house, looking far away out
over the winding reaches of the river, which wound
like a silver ribbon through the valleys below. A
beautiful azure and black butterfly came for a moment
and settled on the stock of my rifle, which lay beside
me, and then flew away, scared by the approach of
some Lushais who came, grunting up the path with
their loads, in true hill fashion.
All things are finite, from the softest and most
rosy-hued dawn to the longest and most wearisome of
nights. The expedition was over ! I had said farewell
to the General and bade adieu to the officers of the 2nd
Ghurkhas, pleasant fellows, with whom I had served
for so many weeks; and now, far away on the white-
gleaming reaches of the Karna-phuli I could see the
boats which were carrying them all away, down
stream to Chittagong, leaving me once more alone in
my hill solitudes. * ,
It was time, indeed, to have done with campaign-
ing, for the heat was growing apace, and the sun beat
down so fiercely that the ground grew too hot for even
the hard and horny feet of the hill men; the glossy
dark-coated guyals sought the shelter of the densest
thickets, moaning to each other in sympathetic anguish
at the torment of the forest flies; the smaller hill-
streams had begun to threaden from the heat, sadly
straitening their finny tenants, so that the shallows
swarmed with fish, and many a savoury mess was to
be obtained by roaming along the sandy banks at
night armed with a torch and a dao, with which
latter weapon effective chops could be made at the
unsuspecting fry.
CONCLUSION. 435
Not long, however, was I allowed to indulge in
idleness or idyllic retrospection, being speedily sum-
moned to Calcutta, where a council was held to decide
on future frontier policy in regard to the Lushais.
The campaign was the talk of the moment in Cal-
cutta, and I made many acquaintances in consequence
when I went there in April 1872. General Brownlow
was specially good to me, and lost no opportunity of
praising my services and enhancing their value.
He was my ideal of a true English gentleman, and
I took a great enthusiasm for him; not, assuredly,
because he spoke well of me, but because he always
thought of others first and of himself last. I consi-
dered, and do still consider it, a great piece of good
fortune to have served under his command. With
a rough and domineering or even an unsympathetic
commander I could not have worked so well; there-
fore, indirectly, whatever good work I did in the
campaign was mainly due to my General.
The opinions I had formed as to our future frontier
policy were given very flattering consideration by the
Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. I returned to the
hills with orders to establish a permanent post at
Demagree under an English officer; and for this pur-
pose Lieutenant Gordon was appointed my additional
assistant.
He and I returned to Chittagong together on the
25th of April, and at once proceeded to Rangamati,
where I resumed charge of my own district, setting
out immediately afterwards for Demagree to intro-
duce him to his new work. We had no time to lose,
for the rains were expected to set in at any moment;
before we left Kassalong the monsoon burst upon us,
28 #
436 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and the river came down in flood with a rush and a
roar, giving us uncommonly hard work to get along.
The current was so rapid in places that our boats
made head against it with great difficulty ; every
little rapid became a foaming torrent, into which
Gordon and I had to step waist-deep, with our men,
to haul the boats through. At night, to make
our case worse, we were attacked by swarms of sand-
flies, creatures so minute that they penetrated the
finest mosquito-curtains, and whose bite was so
venomous as to cause sores. The only way to
baffle these small but malignant enemies was either
to adopt the native mode, and muffle oneself from
head to foot in a thick cotton mantle, or to sleep
in the smoke of a sort of ants’ nest, which was
plentiful in the jungle, a piece of which if lighted
would burn slowly, giving out an aromatic fume
which was abhorrent to the sand-flies. In either case
success was only partial, and the result was a restless
and disturbed night, with the bright stars overhead,
their light partially defining the dim hill ranges, while
the monotonous roar of the rushing river smote the
ears in never-ceasing reverberation.
In olden times I used to think of these hills as
beckoning me eastward ; now, how many and varied
had been my experiences among them, how unfore-
seen the events which had occurred. Truly nothing
occurs but the unexpected.
At Demagree I chose the site for our new perma-
ment post, and made the necessary arrangements for
the men's food. I was the better able to do this
as I had in hand a considerable quantity of surplus
stores, left behind by the expedition. From this
CONCLUSION. 437
stock, also, I was glad to be able to befriend the
Sylus, who, in consequence of the havoc we had
wrought with their granaries, were now hard pressed
for food.
I paid a visit to my friend Rutton Poia in order to
introduce Lieutenant Gordon to him. We found the
chief in fine feather: his power and importance had
been wonderfully increased by the part he had played
in the recent campaign, and he consequently beamed
as upon a benefactor. -
There being no adequate accommodation for the
rainy season, I did not propose to remain myself or
to leave Gordon at Demagree, but intended moving
up there permanently in October or November.
Having put matters in order, therefore, and left a
strong guard over the stores and munitions, we re-
turned to Rangamati. This little station was now
quite gay and lively, as compared with the time when
I had lived there alone like the bumble-bee. Now
there was Gordon, who was Assistant-Commissioner,
together with Messrs. Knyvett, Crouch, and Bignell,
who had been appointed to the Frontier Battalion
under my command. It was strange to think that
not so long ago I cut my way through the dense
forest growth that then clothed the ground where our
houses now stood, while a flourishing bazaar occupied
the site of my old “jum.” The formerly jungle-clad
hills around were gradually becoming soft sweeps of
grass whereon cattle grazed, while the country was
thickly dotted with small homesteads and cultivated
fields. My mission in the country evidently was to
act as pioneer; for, having established this comfort-
able settlement at Rangamati, I was now, during the
438 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
ensuing cold weather, to move forward to Demagree
and there undertake the same work again.
The Lushai expedition had whitened my head and
brought me much ill-health ; the doctors strongly
advised my seeking change of air by a voyage to
England, or at any rate that I should apply for some
other district, but I could not tear myself away from
my dear hills, where the work became more and more
absorbingly interesting.
This was, in truth, a wonderful year for me.
Almost every measure of reform or improvement
which I had advocated was sanctioned by Govern-
ment. Chiefest among these measures, was the per-
mission to advance Small sums (aggregating, however,
£4,000) to the hill people, as loans with which to
purchase ploughs and cattle, and so enable them once
and for ever, as I hoped, to abandon their old nomadic
system of “jum ” culture and to settle down to own,
and hold land, as permanent cultivators. This move-
ment, if successful, bade fair to change the face of the
country and to permanently ameliorate the condition
of the people.
Numbers of our quondam enemies, the Sylus,
came in to visit me, for my name had become great
in Lushai-land: they called me father, and named
children “Thangliena” after me, it being, as they
averred, a name of power and good fortune. I
thought sometimes of King David's psalm, “A
people whom I have not known serve me . . . as
soon as they heard of me they obeyed me; but the
strange children dissembled . . . the strange chil-
dren failed and trembled in their hill forts”; and I
thanked God, very humbly and sincerely, in that
CONCLUSION. 439
He had strengthened my hands and prospered my
work.
The cold weather came on apace, and we began to
prepare for action. Lieutenant Gordon, with Mr.
Bignell, and a strong detachment of the Frontier.
Battalion, were sent to take charge of the Bohmong's
country to the south; this part of the district was
chiefly subject to raids from the Shendās, who came
from the Arracan hills, and they, having been un-
scathed by the expedition, would probably be as
“peart” as ever. Mr. Crouch went to take command
of the Demagree post, while Mr. Knyvett remained
in charge at Rangamati. For myself, Government
had directed that a thorough exploration should be
made of the Southern Frontier, and had directed me,
if possible, to lay down a line which might serve in
future as the boundary from Demagree to Arracan.
For this purpose, a special officer of the Survey De-
partment had been deputed to accompany me and
map the country through which we passed, it being
entirely unknown and said to be uninhabited.
I took with me fifteen picked men, well armed,
and ten hill coolies to carry our food. The Govern-
ment Surveyor, on his part, moved with a guard of
military police and a number of coolies to carry his
baggage and heavy surveying implements. Alto-
gether his party numbered ninety souls.
My own notion was to do the journey as light as
possible, in rough frontier fashion, our only road
being the wild elephant tracks; but much against my
judgment, the party was increased in numbers until
it reached the above unwieldy dimensions.
We set forth accordingly at the end of November,
440 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
and dragged this weary tail after us for nearly a fort-
night, until the Government Surveyor decided that
his instruments could be conveyed no farther, and,
as food was running short, and he had succeeded in
mapping a very considerable extent of hitherto unsur-
veyed country, he determined to return to Demagree.
On the 17th of December 1872 I parted company
from my companion and plunged joyfully into the
pathless solitudes of the primeval forest, the home
of the tiger, the rhinoceros, and the wild elephant.
Once we lost our way, and our food supply ran dan-
gerously low ; once a tiger steadily followed our small
party for two days and two nights, mewing round the
camp in the darkness like a gigantic cat, but not
otherwise molesting us. . •
Christmas Day dawned upon us through the gleam
of interlacing branches and tangled underwood, seven
days’ journey at least from any human habitation.
My Christmas dinner consisted of boiled rice and
spring water, with sundry unknown roots and berries;
my tobacco fortunately held out, or I should have
indeed deemed my lot a hard one, for there is no
slavery like that of the votary of nicotine.
We marched one hundred and fifty miles through
absolutely unknown country: here and there we met
with great cleared spaces in the jungle, the elephant's
parlour, pillared by enormous forest trees, and the
ground as smooth and well-beaten as a threshing-
floor. Here Behemoth had made his sport, for hard
by, great trees were uprooted and crushed, the
branches being thrown hither and thither as by a
gale of wind, while the earth showed great tusk
marks and the print of huge rolling sides.
CONCLUSION. 441
One morning, as we marched along, a large rhino-
ceros trotted playfully in front of us for some distance,
and on another occasion a monster snake, full twenty
feet long and as thick as my thigh, slid his slow
gleaming bulk across our path.
We slept on the ground every night under the
trees, and a very hard bed Mother Earth afforded.
In camping out thus, I generally found it impos-
sible to sleep later than three or four in the morning;
either the increase of cold at that hour, or the turn-
ing of night towards day, brought back consciousness,
and one sat up and gathered together the embers of
the dying fire, shuddering at the dense sea of mist
and darkness and the unknown unknowable forest
that beleaguered us round.
Sometimes in our day’s march, which averaged
about twenty miles, we had to pass along the edge
of, or to scale, precipices, where a downward look
meant vertigo and destruction, and at evening we
had only our rice and roots to comfort us; but at
length the journey was successfully accomplished,
and that portion of the frontier roughly demar-
cated. - -
We reached our southernmost outpost at Chima,
in the Bohmong’s country, and thence to Gordon's
head-quarters on the Sungu river, arriving very
worn and ragged, with prodigious appetites. After
inspecting Gordon's posts, and arranging matters
with him, I returned by river, viá Chittagong, to
Demagree as fast as possible, and settled down once
more to my work there. -
The Lushais now resorted in crowds to the small
bazaar which had been established at Demagree.
442 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
Here my faithful servant Nurudin had, on my
recommendation, been appointed Jemadar, or trade
superintendent, on a salary of £60 a year. His
future was thus secured, and his fidelity well merited
the reward, the more so as he was in every way
fitted for the post.
My mother had sent him out from England a
double-barrelled gun, with good store of ammunition,
as a reward for faithfully following me through the
campaign, and a few days after receiving the present
he brought me a carefully-penned missive, which he
begged me to forward to his honoured patroness.
It ran as follows:
MADAM,
With most respect and humble submission I beg to
acknowledge the receipt of your favourable reward of one
musket and seven hundred ammunitions. For this I am much
thankful to you the kindness which is always awarded me by
you and my master I shall be remembrance in my life.
(Signed) NURUDIN.
My experience during the campaign had added
greatly to my knowledge of the Lushai language,
and I occupied my leisure in preparing a hand-book
of dialogues in that tongue, with a large vocabulary,
which was afterwards printed and published by
Government.
My residence at Demagree opened out quite a
round of fresh occupations. At one time it would
be a Lushai chief, with a score of followers, who
came to pay a visit to Thangliena, and who would
sit drinking silently, with no apparent intention of
ever removing himself; or there were the hundred
and one questions to be attended to, concerning the
CONCLUSION. 443
drill, discipline, food, and equipment of my small
force.
The food question was, in truth, the greatest
difficulty I had to contend with, for the Lushai
villages in the neighbourhood had no surplus for
sale, and consequently everything required for the
sustenance of my garrison of one hundred and fifty
men had to be brought in boats from Chittagong, a
distance of one hundred and eighty miles. Then there
was the hospital, where I, poor physician, had to pre-
scribe for fifteen or twenty sick men, until later on,
when, much to my relief, Government sent us a
native doctor. ‘.
Beside all this, there were trees to fell, ground
to clear, and houses to build, together with twelve
elephants to superintend ; not to mention the writing
and, more tedious still, the copying out of the copious
official reports upon every sort of subject which were
required by Government, such as frontier policy,
codification of law, vaccination, revenue settlement,
education, survey, &c.
All sorts of curious cases came to me for decision.
A girl fell at my feet one day, and sued for a
divorce because, she said, her husband beat her
mother every morning. But perhaps the most
original and difficult case which came before me
for decision was as follows.
I was walking up and down one evening, taking
exercise in front of the mat house which sheltered
me at Demagree, watching some of my men playing
at quoits, when of a sudden there appeared a fugi-
tive, like Man Friday coming to Crusoe. Bare-
headed, bare-footed, with his clothes in disorder,
444 A FLY ON THE wher:L.
one of the Frontier Battalion soldiers approached,
running for his life. He was a simple, good-natured
fellow, who had been sent to carry letters to the
outpost on Sirthay Tlang, the hill-range above.
Demagree. This was his story: -
“Sahib, I was going along with the letters”—
here the quoits were abandoned, and a crowd of
listeners pressed around us—“I was going along
with the letters which I had received from your
highness, and had reached the small water-fall half-
way up the hill, where I stopped to drink. After
I had drunk I proceeded on my way; but I had
not gone above a musket-shot, when a great tiger
came out and stood in the path. Then I feared for
my life ; and the tiger stood, and I stood, and we
looked at each other. I had no weapon but my
kukri (a Ghurkha knife), and the Government letters.
So I said, ‘My Lord Tiger, here are the Government
letters, the letters of the Homble Kumpny Bahadur
(the Honourable East India Company), and it is
necessary for me to go on with them.” The tiger
never ceased looking at me, and when I had done
speaking he growled, but he never offered to get
out of the way. On this I was much more afraid,
so I kneeled down and made obeisance to him ; but
he did not take any more notice of that either, so at
last I told him that I should report the matter to
the Sahib, and I threw down the letters in front of
him, and ran here as fast as I was able. Sahib, I
now ask for your justice against that tiger.”
This was a new mode of stopping Her Majesty's
mails, so I sent out a party to prepare a trap for My
Lord Tiger. It was most unreasonable behaviour
CONCLUSION. 445
on his part, for, as my men said, we never interfered
with him. This stoppage of the road was a declara-
tion of war, and we killed him not long afterwards.
The Chittagong Hill Tracts proper, of which
Rangamati was the head-quarters, were managed
during my absence very ably by Mr. Knyvett, the
Superintendent of Police, who was vested by
Government with the powers of a magistrate for
the purpose ; while the Bohmong’s country, or, as
it was now called, the Sungu Sub-Division, was in
charge of Lieutenant Gordon. The whole, how-
ever, was under my charge, and required constant
supervision. •.
I had formed a high opinion of the little Ghurkhas,
who, under Colonel Macpherson, had done the fight-
ing of the expedition, and I obtained permission
to send to Nepal and get emigrants from there to
colonise my frontier wastes. These Ghurkha colonies
were established on the Myani river, a northern
affluent of the Karna-phuli, and early in 1873 I set
out from Demagree to visit them, and see how the
settlement was progressing.
The country where these villages were located had
previously been uninhabited, through fear of the
marauding Lushais, and my idea had been to establish
there good stockaded villages of courageous, stiff-
necked people like the Ghurkhas, who should serve
as a buffer between the Mong Raja's territory and
the independent Lushai tribes to the east.
As I poled up the Myani, my dug-out canoe was
brought to a standstill in a somewhat novel and
unexpected fashion. A wild elephant (a big tusker)
was taking a bath, and filled up the whole of the
446 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
small stream with his huge body. Now the water
was too shallow for us to effect a retreat with any
speed, so that, had we insulted him in any way, he
could easily have caught and punished us. I had
with me, moreover, only a light double gun, which
was of doubtful efficacy against such a mountain of
flesh. There was nothing for it, therefore, but to
wait patiently until His Majesty had concluded his
ablutions, when he solemnly stalked up the bank
into the forest and we were able to pursue our
journey.
That same day I witnessed another equally curious
and unusual spectacle. The banks of the stream
rose on either hand, high and steep, the margin,
however, affording a pleasant, passable path. I had
got out of the boat to stretch my legs, and, more
from idle curiosity than any other reason, I climbed
the steep slope on the right to see what sort of
country lay on the other side of it.
As my head topped the bank, I found myself
looking into a small, grassy, basin-like clearing, on
the opposite slope of which, facing me in the sun,
lay a most beautiful tigress, with two small cubs
tugging lustily at her teats. It was a fascinating
sight, and fortunately, as the sun shone right into
her eyes, I was able to observe it at my leisure.
Presently the two little ones left off sucking, and
began to play in the most graceful and fantastic
manner possible, until the sound of my boatmen
singing, as they poled the boat up-stream, put an end
to my enjoyment, and I retired as quietly as I had
come, lest Madame might resent the intrusion on her
domestic privacy. -
CONCLUSION. 447
I stopped for breakfast at a small Tipra settle-
ment on the bank, on the chance of getting some
milk or eggs, and as I rested for a while in the head-
man's house, a beautiful ribbon-snake, of the most
vivid grass-green, slender and long like a whip-lash,
slowly wound its way through the bamboo of the
roof over our heads. The good man informed me
that it was quite harmless, and was never disturbed,
as it was thought to bring good luck to the house
which it visited.
After inspecting the Ghurkha settlements, and
also visiting some villages of Tipra immigrants who
had settled under their wing, I made my way to the
camp of my friend Captain Hood, the Superin-
tendent of Government Kheddas—in other words,
“Elephant-Catcher Extraordinary to Her Majesty”
—who was out, in pursuance of his function, and
from whom I had received an invitation to share in
his sport.
The wild elephant is found in all the remoter
valleys of the Hill Tracts, in herds of from thirty
to forty, or, where food is plentiful, in still larger
numbers, and once every two or three years the
Khedda Superintendent organizes a big hunt to
catch elephants, which are afterwards tamed and
broken for the Government service.
The males seldom exceed nine or, in rare in-
stances, ten feet in height. Twice round an
elephant's foot gives the measure of his height.
They are said to live to the age of one hundred
and fifty years in a wild state, but no hill man that
I ever met could remember to have seen a dead wild
elephant. Probably when their powers fail them
448 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
they retire to die in some very secluded spot. The
domesticated elephant does not, as a rule, live more
than eighty years.
There was an abundance of elephants in the
forests at the head of the Myani river, and on my
way to join Captain Hood we fell in with a herd
of the great beasts. They were walking calmly
along the ridge of a hill, the females and calves in
advance, with the tuskers as rear-guard. When we
came in sight they halted, and I did the same,
expecting that they would disperse and fly, as wild
animals generally do at the sight of man ; but
instead of doing so, the herd huddled together, and
a large, solemn tusker came to the front with up-
lifted trunk and flapping ears, charging us without
more ado, and scattering my party hurriedly down
the slope. •
The only way to escape from an elephant who
charges, if you have not got a heavy rifle with which
to stop him, is to run down-hill, for if you attempt
to run up-hill he has you in a moment, but down-hill
his bulk baffles him, and he must perforce move with
caution.
The herd which we thus met had probably been
previously disturbed by Hood's scouts, for elephants
do not usually seek the heights at that season, but
keep to the valleys and streams from November to
April, mounting to the high lands in May, to visit
the salt licks, and to avoid the flies and ticks which
render the forest uninhabitable during the rainy
SeaSOIl.
I once went out elephant-hunting with Rutton
Poia, and, as the Americans say, we had a high old
CONCLUSION. 449
time, so high, indeed, that I was thankful when it
was over. The Lushai mode of elephant-hunting
consisted in surrounding the animal, perhaps about
fifty of us in a circle, and then blazing away to the
centre. The consequence was that the bullets flew
about as in a general action. We killed the elephant,
it is true ; but two of the Lushais were wounded,
one with a bullet, the other by a chance spear-thrust,
and the wonder was that at least half of us were not
left on the field. I had no intention of repeating
this experience, but hoped with the Government
Khedda to see a hunt of a different sort.
I joined Captain Hood just in time to witness the
drive. His scouts had found a herd of about thirty
elephants in one of the lateral valleys, and had placed
men all round to keep them, if possible, undisturbed.
At the mouth of the valley the khedda had been
constructed, and to drive the herd into this was the
object in view. The khedda was an ingenious sort
of trap; a thin fence of bamboo was first constructed,
in shape like a fan, extending outwards (at its broadest
part being, perhaps, four miles wide), but, as this
fence narrowed in, it increased in size and strength,
changing from split bamboos to whole bamboos, and
so on, until at length it became a stout fence or pali-
sade of young tree-trunks. At the narrowest end,
where the two sides of the fan approached to a point,
the khedda was constructed. This was a great circle
of some fifty yards in diameter made of stout tree-
trunks set close side by side, end on, in the earth,
buttressed outside with supports, the whole being
firmly bound together and fastened with withes of
tough, green cane. Inside the khedda a deep ditch
29
450 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
was dug, so as to prevent the elephants, once caged,
from approaching the fence to destroy it. An
entrance was left, four yards in width, above which
hung a heavy portcullis garnished on the inner side
with sharp bamboo spikes, which could be dropped
into place at the critical moment by cutting a rope.
The fan-shaped or funnel-like fence which led up to
the khedda grew weaker as it receded from the
khedda, because the elephants do not try to break
through it until it narrows and they become
thoroughly terrified; before this, should they stray to
the right or left, and reach the fence, their delicate
sense of smell tells them that the hand of their enemy,
man, has been at work there, and they recoil, suspi-
cious of traps, and so go on inevitably to the khedda.
An elephant's power of scent is, indeed, wonderful:
Hood told me that he had known wild elephants to
get the wind of his tame ones at a distance of two
miles.
At early dawn thirty men had been sent to the
head of the valley by a détour, with orders to drive
the herd down to the khedda; fifty more were spread
out right and left, in ones and twos, along the funi-
cular fence; while Hood and myself, with his best
men and the trained elephants, were in reserve at the
khedda.
As the Sun rose, all preparations had been com-
pleted, and far away up the valley we heard the
shouts of the men, mingled with the noise of shots
and drums, as they drove the herd down on us.
Slowly the noise drew nearer, the men on the right
and left along the fence taking up the shout as the
elephants passed them ; closer and yet closer came
CONCLUSION. 451
the din, rising at last to an infernal uproar, and as I
peered out cautiously from behind the tree where I
was stationed I saw the herd approaching.
In front of all came a huge tusker, who seemed
to dominate the whole herd, so large was he. They
pushed forward in hot haste until they reached the
main stockade, and here, for a moment, they hesitated.
The noise, the shouts, the explosions of fire-arms,
were redoubled; the leader turned, trumpeting with
uplifted trunk, as if conscious of his danger, but the
smaller elephants hurried timorously past him,
entered the stockade, and, after a slight hesitation,
he followed them. In a moment, Hood cut the cord,
and down fell the portcullis. How many had entered
the khedda it was for the moment impossible to say,
but five of the herd had been left outside, in Hood's
anxiety to secure the tusker, and these now bolted to
the right where I was posted on the other side of the
fence; in their mad rage they charged the strong
fence, and smashed it down as if it had been made
of reeds, seeing which I and two of the khedda men,
who were just outside, bolted for our lives. One of
the men, unfortunately for himself, ran in the direc-
tion which the elephants followed in their flight, but
immediately perceiving his mistake, he threw himself
sideways into a clump of high grass on the left. I
thought he had escaped; alas! no. The hinder-
most female, who had her calf trotting beside her,
put out her trunk and scented the poor fugi-
tive ; another moment, and she had trampled his
life out.
The excitement became intense. Such a noise !
such a Babel of tongues the Screaming of ele-
29 #
452 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
phants, the reports of guns, the shouting of men,
all mingled in one infernal charivari. The khedda
was surrounded by men, some holding spears, others
fire-brands, whose duty it was to prevent the more
adventurous of the captive elephants from approach-
ing or injuring the khedda. The big tusker made
several attempts to descend into the inner ditch in
order to pull down the stockade, but was driven back
by lighted fire-brands and the firing in his face of
blank charges of powder.
The sun was now westering, and the process of
tying-up commenced: an operation that to me, as
one of the uninitiated, seemed by far the most dan-
gerous part of the business.
The tame elephants entered the enclosure, each
bearing two men on her back, one of whom guided
the tame elephant, and engaged the attention of the
wild one which was to be tied, while the other man
slipped off behind and dexterously tied together the
hind legs of the newly-caught creature. The most
combative and largest of the wild elephants were the
first selected to be thus disabled; the smaller ones were
attended to afterwards. The magnificent tusker was
accordingly first tied, and when thus hampered was
led out of the enclosure between two tame elephants
(another pushing him from behind when necessary),
and was securely picketed with strong ropes to two
great trees in the vicinity. It was a wonderful sight,
and one never to be forgotten. Night set in before the
work of tying up was concluded, for it was necessary
to secure safely each captured elephant before the
men were permitted to rest from their labours; but
when all was over, Hood expressed himself as satis-
CONCLUSION. 453
fied with the result, having obtained twenty-one fine
elephants.
The next morning we went to look at the captives,
chief among whom was the majestic tusker aforesaid,
evidently the king of the herd. Some food had been
given him, grain and plantain shoots, but he would
have none of it. There he stood, swaying his body
backwards and forwards with a restless never-ceasing
movement, looking thoroughly untameable.
“Don’t go too near him,” said Hood, “he is still
dangerous, I think.” -
As the words left his lips, the elephant seized the
stem of a plantain-tree which had been given him
for food, and hurled it at us with surprising force.
Fortunately neither of us were struck, and we
retired promptly to a more respectful distance. This
grand creature, I afterwards learned, refused all
food, and finally starved himself to death, but never
gave in
Captain Hood intended making another khedda,
and subsequently captured nine more elephants; but
I could remain with him no longer, and returned with
all speed to Demagree, having to superintend the
establishment of the new stockaded post on Sirthay
Tlang, the hill-range in the immediate vicinity of our
new settlement.
I had found by the experience gained during the
last rains that the valleys were only healthy during
the colder season of the year, and I was consequently
anxious to move as many of my men as possible to
the heights. - -
Demagree itself was very picturesquely and conve-
niently situated, and was well calculated to serve as a
454 A Fi, Y ON THE WHEEL.
depôt and storehouse of provisions, which could thus
far be brought by water. The river Karna-phuli here
breaks through a hill-range by a narrow gorge of
black rock, over which it foams, in two small falls,
down to a still basin of clear green water of about
half a mile in circumference.
The hills, which rise in long ranges to the east,
Hull s # Falls Aſtlls
Jung/e MAP
DE M A G R E E .
trending north and south, shielded the place from the
cold winds, while the level shores of the basin offered
facilities for building. On the south-western side of
the basin a bed of rock deflected the river, causing it
to make a bend, and thus to form a small peninsula
surrounded on three sides by deep water ; a strong



CONCLUSION. 455
stockade across the neck of this peninsula rendered
it an easily-defensible position, and here, conse-
quently, were placed the police barracks, hospital, and
provision depôt. My own house was built on a small
eminence outside the stockade, commanding a good
view of the bazaar on the north side of the pool,
whence a path ran steeply up the Sirthay Tlang, a
lofty peak of the Ohepoom range, where I proposed
building a strong stockade, together with a house for
myself. Here, also, I hoped eventually to establish
the head-quarters of the Frontier Administration,
Demagree serving as a trading centre and a place of
disembarkation and storage.
I had some time previously intimated to Rutton
Poia that I desired to have a house built for me on
Sirthay Tlang, and the men of his tribe had speedily
constructed there a rough but comfortable house, in
Lushai fashion, where I intended passing the rainy
season. Accordingly, in the month of May, I moved
up to my eyrie and took up my abode on Sirthay
Tlang.
It was curious what a difference was made in one's
comfort by a rise in altitude of a thousand feet or so.
At Demagree I had been overpowered by the heat
and devoured by sand-flies, while at Sirthay I had to
clothe myself warmly and keep the doors shut. The
house which my Lushai friends had constructed for
me was made of rough unhewn logs, plastered outside
with mud, and the walls inside covered with bamboo
matting, very comfortable in its way, but decidedly
savage. This was afterwards christened Uncle Tom's
Cabin by my assistants, and was dear to me, not
so much as a dwelling, but as an emblem of diplo-
456 A FLY ON THE WHEEL,
matic triumph and recognition of chiefship by the
Lushais.
I must needs confess, however, that the wind
whistled at times very keenly on my lonely hill-top,
and I gazed enviously at the crested falcon which
perched on a dead tree near the house, wishing that
I had a warm suit of feathers like his, instead of
some thin old English garments which kept out
neither wind nor weather. I missed also the care
and attention of my servant Nurudin, who was at
the Demagree bazaar as Superintendent.
My household, which consisted almost entirely of
hill-men, became demoralized without the major-domo
Nurudin; they lost my clothes, they broke my lamps,
they dropped my concertina into the river, so that I
was never able to play on it again; and, as a crown-
ing misfortune, they selected a fine conical black
rock, and from the back of one of the elephants
they dropped upon it the box containing my stock
of wine and beer, newly arrived from Calcutta. -
Just two days before I moved up to Sirthay I had
received by post a cookery book, from the study of
which I promised myself both pleasure and profit.
The keen air of Sirthay also gave me a fine appetite;
but, alack' my faithful cook took this opportunity
for going on leave, while his hill-deputy came to me
smiling, with the intelligence that the bottom of my
best saucepan had burned itself out, and that the
store of potatoes and Onions was entirely exhausted.
“Allah Akbar!” I said, “who can struggle against
Fate?” So, after a month's comfortless sojourn on
the mountain, I returned to . Demagree, where, at
any rate, one could keep dry. It was most cool and
CONCLUSION, 457
pleasant at Sirthay, but as the rains gathered power
the clouds literally filled my house, everything be-
coming as wet as if I had inhabited a cavern at the
bottom of the sea. It was impossible, with the rain
falling in sheets, to get about much, so I occupied
my time in putting into Burmese Professor Max
Müller's translation of the “Dharma-pada: the Path
of Wisdom or Virtue.” This I afterwards had printed
for distribution among the Khyoung-tha of the Hill
Tracts, by whom its sententious philosophy was
highly appreciated.
I busied the men in planting a thick cactus hedge
along the stockade at Demagree, and also, whenever a
break came in the rain, I practised them in rifle-
shooting. It was as well to be prepared for any
emergency. Small parties of Lushais frequently
visited me during the rains, bringing presents,
such as fresh vegetables from their “jums,” the leg
of a wild pig, or a quarter of venison. I was able
by this time to converse with them pretty freely, and
amused myself by collecting from their lips a variety
of stories and legends. These visits involved, of
course, the consumption of much drink, and I devised
a plan whereby I was able to hob-nob with them to
their heart's content, for while they drank undiluted
rum I quaffed freely from a decanter of toast and
water. The necessary appearance of roystering was
preserved, and all parties were pleased.
I moved up again to the heights of Sirthay Tlang
as soon as the rains abated somewhat of their fury,
for the loneliness and wild grandeur of the place had
a strange attraction for me. I carried with me two
Lushai cats, and treated (unsuccessfully) for a parrot,
458 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
feeling it necessary to preserve the “Crusoe’’ ensemble
as much as possible.
I remember one afternoon standing on the verge
of a mighty brown rock that crowned the hill close
to my house on Sirthay; I knew that beneath me the
valley fell in a sheer dip of hundreds of feet, but
instead of the usual fair woodland landscape, there
rose up, striking me dumbly in the face, a mighty
wall of grey mist, blotting out earth and sky alike.
Piled up to heaven, and stretching far away on either
hand, it rose before one, dim, white, mysterious, and,
as if possessed of an individuality of its own, there
would come now and again a slow uneasy movement
in the white mass, as if something were stirring in
its folds, like a snake in its coils. One could not
look long enough; “Krey ma wak,” as the hill folk
say. The sight was fascinating, and gave one an
impulse to spring out into the soft white fleece. And
this mist would pass away as quickly as it came.
That same evening it was quite clear, and there was
a glorious sunset; so I Scrambled down a neighbour-
ing ravine, and watched the rushing torrent cast its
masses of topaz-coloured water over the dark rocks,
foaming, raging, roaring, and tumbling headlong
down, with such an uproarious outpouring of living
strength, that I shouted aloud in sympathy with
the wild water.
The day was dying peacefully as I climbed back
to my cabin. The light faded away off the far-away
purple hills in the Howlong country, lingering last,
for one tender moment, on the scarped Scaur of the
great Mui Fang Tlang, the range of hills which had
stood between the right column and the column
CONCLUSION. 459
commanded by General Bourchier. Far down below
in the valley twinkled a light from the dwelling of
Some Savage householder, and on the evening air
floated the mournful wailing cry of the guyal, as they
slowly wound their way home from the woodland to
their master's house, where a handful of salt awaited
them. I sat long, looking eastward, dreaming of
fresh explorations, new adventures (dreams never,
alas ! to become realities), until nightfall compelled
me to seek the warmth of the cheerful wood fire
which I found burning on my earthen hearth in true
Lushai fashion. *
I had much at heart a plan for inducing the prin-
cipal Sylu and Howlong chiefs to accompany me to
Calcutta, there to pay their homage to the great ones
of Government and to see the glories of the metro-
polis, and I had to this end frequently thrown out
feelers while conversing with chiefs who came to
See Iſle.
It was, however, no easy task: the entire igno-
rance and simplicity of the Lushai mind freed them
from the inducements which would influence men in
general. What, indeed, had they to gain? and had
they not their lives to lose P. In asking them to place
their lives and liberties in my hands, to undertake
what in their eyes would be a long and perilous
journey to a foreign country, over unknown “lakes,”
and in strange and wonderful steam-vessels, it was
perhaps hardly to be expected that they would readily
lend their ears to the voice of the charmer. Still, I
lost no opportunity of urging the idea upon the
attention of such chiefs as came to visit me.
One day, the chief Saipoiya, a leader and influen-
460 A Fily ON THE WHEEL.
tial man among the Southern Howlongs, came to see
me with a numerous following, and to him I forth-
with propounded my scheme in glowing colours: he
would receive presents from the Governor-General;
he would see such wonders as none of his ancestors
had ever seen or ever dreamed of ; and, moreover, he
would be quite safe, for, as I pointed out, his brother-
in-law, Rutton Poia, had agreed to go, and this he
would not have done unless assured of safety. All
this and much more I pressed upon the chief, who
was evidently much tempted by the proposal. His
followers, however, did not at all relish the idea, and
a wily old karbari put forward the views of the oppo-
sition, in logical form, as follows:—
“It is true, and we believe all you say, Thang-
liena; we have known you for a long time, and
your tongue is straight. Your words are very good
words, but it is wise to look at both sides of a matter.
Is it not so?” .
A murmur of assent from all, in which I joined.
“You say,” continued the karbari, “that the Big
Chief in Calcutta, the Gubnor Gendel, is more
powerful than you are. Is that the case?”
“Yes,” I replied. “He is very great; certainly
more powerful than I am.” -
“Well, then,” rejoined the karbari, “suppose he
orders Saipoiya to be speared P” Sensation.
It is needless to say that Saipoiya did not go to
Calcutta. He took leave of me, asseverating that,
although he was indeed my brother, yet he was
no relation of Lord Northbrook's, and would not,
therefore, visit his village. I had many such inter-
views to go through, and arrangements to make with
CONCLUSION. 461
the authorities at the other end; for I had set my
nets on as large a scale as possible, and wished to take
with me to Calcutta a fairly representative troop of
my wild men. If one had to play the part of show-
man it was well at least to have a good show.
I had to arrange so that the chiefs should remain as
short a time in Calcutta as was compatible with their
seeing everything and being seen by those in autho-
rity there; for, should the health of any member of
the party suffer, I should have been personally
responsible to the tribe, and should have to compen-
sate his relatives with blood-money, for the lea: talionis
prevailed to an alarming extent amongst my barbaric
friends.
After a good deal of manoeuvring I at length
started for Chittagong accompanied by seven chiefs
with a select number of followers, the party number-
ing altogether twenty-seven. From Chittagong we
went by steamer to Calcutta, the journey being per-
formed without any noteworthy incident, save that I
was struck by the impassivity of the Lushais, their
astonishment, if they felt any, being expressed by an
apparent increase in the stolidity of their demeanour.
Throughout the journey they steadily maintained an
attitude of suspicion, which chiefly manifested itself
by a pertinacity of attachment to myself, never
allowing me to be out of their sight. .
On arriving at Calcutta, tents had been pitched for
the accommodation of the party on the “maidaun " or
large grassy plain which forms the lungs, as it were,
of the city; and I had hoped to take up my quarters
at the Club hard by, in my usual fashion ; so, after
putting them in a carriage at our place of disembark-
462 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
ation, under charge of Nurudin, I was entering
another vehicle myself, when I felt my coat-tails
firmly clutched from behind; turning, I found the
chiefs, who refused to return from following after me.
Wainly I expostulated, and explained what was pro-
posed for their comfort; but the fear of Lord North-
brook was upon them, the great white chief who was
more powerful than I, and they would not let me go.
Another tent, therefore, was pitched for me in their
camp, and I remained with them during their stay in
Calcutta. -
They went in due course to pay their homage
to the Lieutenant-Governor, as the head of the
Bengal Government, to whom they gravely bowed
as to an equal, presenting him with the usual
offerings of elephants' tusks and home-spun cloth.
They objected, however, to visiting Lord North-
brook, and were not taken there.
The magnificence of the City of Palaces did not
apparently impress them, nor the dwelling of the
Lieutenant-Governor, palatial as it was, although a
solid silver sofa, supported by silver lions, which
occupied a conspicuous place in the drawing-room
of Belvedere, held their attention for a brief space.
Two of them lost themselves in the streets one
evening, and were brought back late at night by
a friendly policeman, much to the relief of the
remainder of the party, who had become very
silent and depressed through fear of Lord North-
brook. After this they never wandered far from
the tents, unless under my charge, or with Nurudin.
They slept very little, but sat together in the
tent, talking and smoking far into the night. On
CONCLUSION, 463
the whole, the balance of their minds inclined in
favour of their own hill-tops, where there were no
mosquitoes (the plague of Calcutta), and where the
ceaseless jostling of strange men troubled them not.
They were shot disturbed by the crowd of idlers
which daily thronged our camp to gaze at them ;
perhaps because this was in accord with their own
customs, for in the Lushai villages I was mobbed
to death, and never enjoyed a moment's privacy.
Once, and once only, were they roused to enthu-
siasm, and that was when I took them a mile at full
speed on a fiery, snorting locomotive engine, which
was placed at my disposal for the purpose by the
Traffic-Manager of the East India Railway. This
fairly frightened the dignity out of them, and when
safely arrived on the earth again, they shook their
heads, confessing that the power and wisdom of the
Sahibs was altogether wonderful.
They remained in Calcutta a fortnight, and then
departed to their hills, under the charge of Nurudin,
laden with a variety of presents and purchases. They
were well pleased with their visit, and more than
well pleased that it was safely over, and they bade
me farewell with effusion, begging me to follow
them with all speed. Doubtless, in after ages
tradition will hand down the wonders seen by these
chiefs when they went with Thangliena to visit the
Lord Sahib in Calcutta.
This visit of the Lushai chiefs to offer their
homage personally to our Government formed a
fitting sequel and, as I regarded it, a culmination
of the Lushai incident. To the Calcutta idlers
who came to stare at the wild men encamped on
464 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the “maidaun,” they seemed but a handful of bar-
barians, with unkempt hair, clad in curious tartans,
and armed with strange weapons; but to me, who
had lived among them, and knew the nature of these
men, and the authority wielded by them among their
own people, it seemed a wonderful thing that I should
ever have succeeded in persuading them to trust
their lives in my hands. -
Honest fellows they were, and true, in their own
wild way. I never saw them or their hills again,
for the Home Government refused to sanction the
proposals made by the Government of India for the
reconstitution of the Frontier administration, and I
saw no chance of being able to carry out efficiently
the work on which I had set my heart, to which I
had pledged my faith, and for which I had worked
So long.
I think, also, I was out of spirits, as I certainly
was out of health. The life which I had led in the
hills was one involving the extremest hardship and
personal responsibility. Without friends, without
society, and (until the last year or so) without the
companionship of a fellow-countryman, and now,
added to this, the lack of any recognition of my
services, filled me with such a chill sense of dis-
appointment, that I felt it impossible to renew work
on the old terms.
I had disregarded the doctor's advice at the end
of the Lushai campaign, in order to complete and
consolidate the effects of the expedition ; but I could
hold up no longer, being really ill ; and so, once
more, somewhat weary and broken, I returned to
England, and, a few years later, left the service,
CONCLUSION. 465
with the honorary rank of Lieutenant-Colonel, and
a pension of £190 a year.
Looking back now, with the wider philosophy
which years have given, I can see that the Indian
Government is perhaps wise in not encouraging
individual effort. A public servant's idiosyncrasy
must not be too strongly developed, even for the
good of those under his charge. Things may go
better for a time—for his time—but the difficulty
of replacing such an officer, when removed by death
or promotion, is an insuperable objection. A high
Indian official once brusquely but pertinently re-
marked in my hearing, “We don't want personal
influence ; we want men who will obey orders.”
Talleyrand’s maxim, Surtout point de zèle, is,
perhaps, too cynical as applied to our Indian
bureaucracy; but a zeal that involves the outlay
of Government money, and risks lives that may
have to be avenged, is to be deprecated rather than
encouraged. I knew and loved my hill people. I
lived among them and was their friend. They
admitted me into their homes and family life as few
Englishmen have been admitted. I ate with them,
talked with them, played music at their feasts, and
joined in their hunting expeditions. They concealed
no thoughts from me ; I had their confidence. They
gave me their sons to educate, and invited me to the
marriage-feasts of their daughters. I was ready to
spend and be spent in their service. But, after all,
I was only “a fly on the wheel”; they were not my
people. I did but represent and make known to
them the impartial justice, the perfect tolerance, and
the respect for personal freedom which characterise
30
466 A FLY ON THE WHEEL.
the British rule in India, gaining for it the respect
of all creeds and all classes, and making it, in spite
of many blunders, misunderstandings, and mistakes,
the strongest and wisest Government, since the old
Roman Empire, that this world has known.
Look not mournfully into the Past. It comes not back
again.
Wisely improve the Present. It is thine.
Go forth to meet the shadowy Future without fear and with
a manly heart.
T1BIE END.
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