**
TP
910
.E14
ESTABLISHED
1838
B 429451
UNIVERSAL
COLOR CARD
EATON CLARK COMPANY
WINDSOR
DETROIT
3648

:
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN LIBRARIES
UNIVERSAL COLOR CARD
For a long time it has been evident that Dye Color Cards were a source of
trouble for the Garment Dyer. It was hard for him to get more than one card,
and some of these cards were not of the right character to show his trade, due
to the fact that they were usually shown on some very highly finished material,
and dyed up with very brilliant acid colors. Many times this gave the customer
the impression that when redyed work came back it would possess the same
brilliancy and life as shown on the Sample Card. As a rule the Dyer would
have a garment to redye of such material that it would be almost impossible to
obtain this brilliancy of shade. In order to remedy this difficulty about two
years ago we started distributing Color Cards showing Union Dyes on three
fabrics, namely-wool, cotton and silk in the same bath, and in selling these
colors to the trade two cards were given with each order, so that the Dyer and
the Front Office would both have the same Color Card. This plan proved very
satisfactory, and since that time we have placed two other cards in the hands of
our customers, making a total collection of sixty different Union Colors on three
fabrics.
We believe this Universal Card will overcome the above mentioned diffi-
culties. We have assembled sixty-four Union Colors, and are showing them on
silk cloth. While all these colors will dye wool, silk and cotton the same shade
in the same bath, the majority of the garments to be redyed today are silk; thus
our choice of silk fabric for this card. We intend to distribute gratis one Uni-
versal Card to all of the job dyers in the United States and Canada using these
sets of dyes, and give each one the privilege of buying a limited additional
number at our actual manufacturing cost. Of course, we expect to benefit by
the sale of our Dyestuffs, but we also believe we will be rendering the trade a
real service by supplying these cards. This will allow the garment dyeing trade
not only to have one of these cards in their dye house and different branch
offices, but will also allow them to supply one to each of their drivers. These
colors are all numbered consecutively, which will make it possible to use a num-
bering system if one does not want to use the names listed in identifying the
color desired.
DIRECTIONS-All of the following Dyes color wool, cotton
and silk the same shade in one bath, with the
addition of common salt only.
EATON - CLARK CO.
204 Woodward Ave.
Branch-Windsor, Ont.
Detroit, Mich.
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN LIBRARIES
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Methods of Dyeing
1838
JUJU
ESTABLISHED
WINDSOR
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GENERAL LIBRARY
EATON-CLARK CO.
DETROIT
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910
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Methods of Dyeing
Dyeing
There are several classes of dyes suitable for re-dyeing garments, etc. We
will enumerate a few of them and point out their different uses.
Acid Colors. These are used mainly on pure wools and pure silks.
There are two classes of Acid Colors-Sulphuric Acid Dyes and Acetic Acid
Dyes. The Sulphuric Acid Dyes dye wool or silk with the addition of Sul-
phuric Acid. The Acetic Acid Dyes dye wool or silk with the addition of
Acetic Acid. Some of these Acetic Acid Colors, however, dye with the
addition of common salt only. These latter types are known sometimes as
Neutral Dyeing Wool Colors. However, the majority of them will dye silk
as well. The Sulphuric Acid Wool Colors are used principally for dyeing
Wool; some of them, however, will also dye silk. There are two methods by
which a job dyer may use Acid Colors on mixed fabrics. He can use an Acid
Dve and dye his wool or silk, and remove his material from the bath, rinse,
and then put them in a bath of Direct Dyes. This method is known as Cross
Dyeing. The other method is to mix Neutral Wool Colors and Direct
Colors in one bath, which is known as Union Dyeing.
This class of Dyestuffs will dye cotton,
(with the exception of Celanese,) with the
Some of them will dye the wool; the majority
They are to be recommended for re-dyeing
Direct Cotton Colors.
silk and the artificial silks
addition of common salt only.
of them, however, only stain it.
straight cotton material.
Basic Colors. These are a class of Dyestuffs of a different family than
the Acid or Direct Colors. As a rule they have a very high color value,
but very poor fastness to light, hot pressing, and washing. They are used
principally by the garment dyers for topping. They have the property of
fastening themselves onto cotton which has already been dyed with a Direct
Dye. They will also dye silk and wool if they are used with a small amount
of Acetic Acid. When great brightness is desired on cotton which has not
previously been dyed, it can be produced by first treating the cotton in a
bath of Tannic Acid and Tartar Emetic, and then giving the cotton a bath in
a Basic Color. However, they are not very fast, but in certain classes of work
they are quite necessary.

Union Dyes.
These are the ultimate dyes for garment re-dyeing.
The use of Union Dyes is increasing every year. There are only a few of the
older dyers in this country today who are using Acid Dyes either in a cross
dyeing process or in a neutral dyeing process. The bulk of the dyers have
found that by using Union Dyes, time and money can be saved, and possibly
at times the brilliancy of the work may not be as great as if some other method
had been used, but it seems that customers are perfectly satisfied. A good
many dyers have told us when we offered them Union Colors that they were
able to make them, themselves. We knew this to be a fact, but we also knew
that it took them some time to make them, and it was a lot of trouble. A great
many dyers have admitted this fact, and when once converted to Union Dyes
we do not believe it is possible to get them back to the older methods.
Directions for Dyeing
Scouring.
All goods must be thoroughly cleaned before dyeing.
It is a good idea if there are oil or grease spots on the garments to dry clean
them first. If these spots are not removed they are bound to cause trouble
later. Care must be used if they are washed with soap and alkali to see that
all this material is removed from the garments; otherwise you will get uneven
dyeing, poor penetration, and your colors will be dull and they will rub. A
good grade of Olive Oil Soap or a soft Cocoanut Oil Potash Soap should be
used with one of the modified alkalies if your water is very hard. However,
care must be taken in the use of soda, especially with silks.
Stripping. It is sometimes found necessary to strip the old color off
before re-dyeing. Some dyers use a weak soda bath for loosening this color;
others use a hot soap and ammonia bath; most dyers use a standard stripper.
There are several types of stripper on the market, with some of which it is
necessary to add Acetic Acid, while others work with the addition of no
acid whatsoever. Care must be taken in stripping, and you must also be
very careful that all the stripping material is rinsed from the goods before
putting them in the dye bath. If the stripper is not removed from the goods.
you can usually smell it. There are certain Blues which will strip down to a
White, but on exposure to air the blue will redevelop and appear on the
fabric. There is no good method at the present time that we know of to
overcome this trouble.
Faded Goods.
There are two classes of faded goods into which
the job dyer runs; those in which the dye has faded, and those that are burnt.
The faded goods in which only the dye is affected can be overcome by stripping.
However, if the goods are burnt this means that the character of the fibre has
been changed, and that the burnt goods will have a greater affinity for the
dyestuff than the part that was not exposed to the sun. About the only remedy
for a burnt piece of material is to dye it black.


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Directions for Dyeing with Union Dyestuffs
After the goods have been suitably prepared for dyeing, the dye bath can
be made up. Dissolve the dye in boiling hot water or as near the boiling point
as possible. Be very sure that your dye is all dissolved, and then add it to your
dye kettle. The temperature of the dye bath should be about 150° F. when
your goods are immersed. After your goods are in the bath, twenty pounds
of common salt should be added for every hundred pounds of goods. Care
should be taken that these goods are thoroughly "wet out," otherwise you will
not get good penetration. If your goods consist of silk and cotton it is not.
necessary to bring them above the boiling point, as these two fabrics will
dye just below the boiling point. However, if there is wool to be dyed, the
bath should be brought to the boil and boiled until the wool has acquired the
desired shade; then allow the goods to stand below the boil for fifteen minutes
with occasional stirring, which will fill up any cotton that is in the material.
It is impossible to state the amount of dye to use. This is learned from ex-
perience. As a general rule, Pinks, Yellows, Tans and Grays require less.
than one pound of dye for one hundred pounds of goods. Golden Browns,
Light Blues, Light Greens and Scarlets require about two pounds of dye.
Navy Blues, Dark Blues, Dark Greens, Seal Browns, Chocolate Browns and
Dark Reds require about four pounds. The majority of the Union Blacks
require five pounds. Of course, all these figures are based on dyeing white.
material. If you have a shade already on the material you will use even less
dye. It is better to use too little dye than too much, because it is always easy
to add more dye if you find your goods are not coming out dark enough. In
testing for shade, while your goods are still in the bath, you will find that cotton
material when wet is considerably darker than when dry. There is less differ-
ence in the color of silk when wet and when dry, while wool is practically
the same shade wet or dry.
Hints on Dyeing Union Blacks
It would seem that the dyeing of Union Blacks would be much more simple than
dyeing with colors. However, through experience, it has been found that
Blacks cause the garment dyer as much trouble if not more than any other
color. There are several reasons which cause these troubles. Sometimes it is
the dye used and sometimes it is the material. If you are using a Jet Black
and your material is white or Dark Blue, if you did your dyeing carefully you
would not have any trouble. If you were dyeing a red or brown, a Jet Black,
you would find that when your job was done it would appear to have a red or
brown cast to it. This can be eliminated sometimes by adding a little Union
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Dark Green to your bath. The Green will tend to counteract the red. Some-
times it seems impossible to get a Jet shade of Black on a piece of Blue or Green
material. In this case one should use a touch of Orange with their Black.
This Orange will tend to neutralize the blue and green. Some Job Dyers have
both a Blue Black and a Jet Black, and separate their work, dyeing their reds
and browns with a Blue Black, and then adding their Blues and Greens,
strengthening their bath with Jet Black.
One of the common troubles in dyeing Blacks is bronzing. This appears to
be a brown cast on the surface of the goods. It is seldom noticed on cottons,
but appears more often on silk and wool. This is caused by too much dye or
prolonged boiling. When this happens you will find that it can be removed
by immersing the garment in a weak bath of Sal Soda or Soda Ash. This
will remove the surplus dye, and you will find the bronze disappears at the
same time.
If you are dyeing lots of Black it pays to keep a standing bath, adding more
salt, water and dye every day. However, we do not advise you to keep this
bath standing too long. It should be cleaned out about every ten days, other-
wise it will deteriorate.
Directions for Dyeing with Acid Dyestuffs
Sulphuric Acid Colors.
The goods should be prepared for Acid
Dyeing the same as for Union Dyeing. Dissolve your dye in sufficient
water, and add to a bath which will not crowd your garments too much.
Immerse your garments in the bath; add ten pounds of Glauber Salt and two
and one-half pounds of Sulphuric Acid 66% Beaume. Gradually bring your
goods to the boil and boil until your garments have the desired shade, or until
your bath is exhausted. It is a good plan to work your garments in the bath
for a short time before adding the Acid, as by this method you get a better
penetration in the seams and more even dyeing, then remove from the bath, cool,
rinse and extract.
Acetic Acid Colors.
Prepare the bath the same as for Sulphuric
Acid dyeing. For every one hundred pounds of garments add ten pounds
of Glauber Salt, and three pounds of Acetic Acid. The majority of the
Acetic Acid colors will dye without the addition of any Acid, but you
get a faster color and quicker dyeing if you use Acetic Acid.
Cross Dyeing. If your garments contain a certain amount of
cotton and you have dyed them with Sulphuric or Acetic Acid Wool Colors,
they can then be rinsed out and added to a bath containing the corresponding

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shade of Direct Color. In this bath you should have about ten pounds of
Glauber Salt or Common Salt. Keep your bath just below the boil until your
cotton has absorbed the Direct Dye; then remove, cool, rinse, and extract.
Neutral Dyeing Wool Colors.
These should be dyed the same
as the Acetic Acid Colors, with the exception that no Acid is necessary
in the bath; merely ten pounds of Glauber Salt to every one hundred pounds
of material.
The most widely used of these Neutral Dyeing Wool Colors are Victoria
Navy Blue and Sulphon Cyanone. These are dark blues which are on the
market in a variety of shades from a green cast to a red cast. They are especially
recommended for covering faded material. Care should be exercised in using
these blues and the salt should not be added until the goods have been in the
bath at least fifteen minutes, otherwise your dyeing would be uneven. Acid
should never be used under any consideration, except possibly in exhausting
the bath. A good many garment dyers make their own Union Navy by
adding Diazine Black or Direct Navy Blue to this class of colors. Some of
them, however, dye the wool first and then immerse them in a bath of one of
these Direct Navy Blues.
Directions for Dyeing with Direct Dyestuffs
For every one hundred pounds of cotton or silk material use twenty pounds
of Common Salt and the required amount of dye. Enter the goods at about
180° Fahrenheit, and work around the boiling point for fifteen to twenty
minutes. Remove your garments, cool, rinse and extract.
Directions for Dyeing with Basic Colors
Mordanting Vegetable Fibres. Make up a bath using 2% to 5%
of Tannic Acid on the weight of the material. Immerse your goods
and let stand for a few hours or over night. The temperature should be
between 140° and 160° Fahrenheit. Extract and treat in a cold bath with
1% to 3% of Tartar Emetic. Remove your material, rinse well, and dye in a
bath containing 1% to 2% of Acetic Acid. Enter cold, bringing your tem-
perature slowly to 140° Fahrenheit. Care must be taken or you will get un-
even dyeing.
Topping.
Remove your goods from the Direct Dye Bath and add them
to a bath containing Basic Dye with about 1% Acetic Acid. Slowly bring
the temperature from 90° to 140° Fahrenheit. The Direct Dye will act as a
mordant for the Basic Color on the vegetable fibre.
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Directions for Using Slipper Dyes
Before dyeing silk and satin slippers they should be thoroughly dry cleaned
and spotted. Dissolve about one-half teaspoonful of the Spirit Color in an
ounce of Wood Alcohol. When the color is dissolved add about one-half
teaspoonful of glycerine and about a teaspoonful of water. Your dye is then
ready for application to the slipper.
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Directions for Using Develop Black
Make a concentrated solution of this Black in boiling hot water and apply
to the clean slipper; allow the slipper to stand about five minutes; wipe off
any surplus moisture, then apply Hydrogen Peroxide. Allow to stand until
your slippers are dry; then take a stiff bristle brush and rub over the whole
slipper. The greatest sheen can be produced on the satin if it is wiped with
a rag containing a little Paraffine Oil or Petrolatum.
EATON-CLARK COMPANY
Cleaners and Dyers Supplies
204 Woodward Avenue
Branch: 524 Arthur St., Windsor, Ont.
Detroit, Mich.

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UNIVERSAL COLOR CARD
Union Light Blue BB
Union Pink G
Union Seal Brown
Union Brilliant Green B
Union Deep Black O
Union Golden Brown B
Union Scarlet
Union Green C
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
Union Orange G
Union Brilliant Blue B
Union Violet RB
Union Steel Gray
Union Light Navy Blue
Union Garnet M
Union Brown MA
Union Chocolate
2

17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
UNIVERSAL COLOR CARD
Union Bright Green
Union Yellow G
Union Bright Cardinal
Union Navy Blue
Union Turquoise M
Union Nile Green M
Union Strawberry M
Union Terra Cotta M
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
Union Ecru M
Union Emerald Light Green M
Union Mahogany M
Union Steel Blue M
Union Khaki M
Union Cherry M
Union Cream M
Union Orchid M
3

33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
UNIVERSAL COLOR CARD
Union Emerald Green M
Union Chinese Orange M
Union Gray M
Union Tan M
Union Bright Crimson M
Union Golden Brown M
Union Violet M
Union Henna M
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
Union Poudre Blue S
Union Dark Green S
Union American Beauty S
Union Sky Blue S
Union Jade Green S
Union Midnight Blue S
Union Old Gold S
Union African Brown S
4

49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
UNIVERSAL COLOR CARD
Union Yellow S
Union Mulberry S
Union Pacific Blue S
Union Heliotrope S
Union Burnt Orange S
Union Night Green S
Union Tan S
Union Flame S
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
Union Old Rose S
Union Taupe S
Union Russet S
Union Peach S
Union Copenhagen Blue S
Union Ecru S
Union Peacock Blue
Union Lilac S
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