DP 302 G35 A 582089 ISTORY OF G46 Nlas ISTORY OF GIBRALT 11. INSTITUTIONS ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD ON BOTH SIDES OF THE STRAITS AND A GUIDE BOOK TO THEIR VAINCIPAL PLACES AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST. Tether with a number of interesting anecdotes of events connected with the Rock and useful notes and instructions for the Traveller and the Sportsman. To which is added a resumé of prominent Local Events during the year 1837-a Tido Table for the year 1888-an extensive loca! Directory with Postal and Telegraphic and Tariffs-those for Hackney Carriages and Boats--Lines of Steamers touching at Gibraltar, with their Agents, Fares days of sailing, &c., &c.-Tables of hours of Gunfire, of the Currency, of distances. the neighbourhood, the Institutions, Schools, Amusements, &c, and a qua. ity of other information as useful to Inhabitants as to Visitors A coloured Plate of is attached, with letter-press ex nation-and als of the Colony, &c., a copious Direcy of the Staff tary), Officers of Regiments, Foreign Consuls, Exchange Jmmittee, merce, Sanitary Commissioners, the Managing Board of the Hel. Community, Names and Addresses of Residents in the Town, and advertisements of Lines of Shipping, fessors, Hotels, Agents, Tradesmen, &c., &c. loce Signals nsed at the Station complete roll of Civil Officers Departments Civil and Ǧj- amber of Com- COMPILED BY THE LAT: LIEUT-COLONEL GILBARD, POLI MAGISTRATE, And continued behalf of Mrs. Gilbard, JANUARY, 1998. Price-12 rvn. GIBRALTAR :: SS GARRISON LIBRA... PRINTING EST LISHMENT, 1888. ENTERED AT STATIONER'S HAL.. THE ALMANACK FOR THE BISSEXTILE YEAR 1888. SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY | FRIDAY SATURDAY JANUARY ...... 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 JULY... 8 91011121314 15161718192021 22232425262728 1 2 3 4 AUGUST 567891011 293031 FEBRUARY .... 12131415161718 19202122232425 26 27 28 29 MARCH .... 1 2 3 SEPTEMBER..... APRIL 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11121314151617 18192021222324 25262728293031 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011121314 OCTOBER 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 MAY .... JUNE …………. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9101112 NOVEMBER 13141516171819 20212223242526 2728293031 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011121314 15161718192021 22232425262728 293031 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 12131415161718 19202122232425 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 S 9101112131415 16171819202122 23242526272829 30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213 141516171819 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11121314151617 18192021222324 252627282930 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 DECEMBER 10111213141516 • • 17181920212223 24252627282930 9101112131415 16171819202122 232425262728,29 30 31 .: A POPULAR HISTORY OF GIBRALTAR, ITS INSTITUTIONS, AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD ON BOTH SIDES OF THE STRAITS, AND A GUIDE BOOK TO THEIR PRINCIPAL PLACES AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST. Together with a number of interesting anecdotes of events connected with the Rock and useful notes and instructions for the Traveller and the Sportsman. To which is added a resumé of prominent Local Events during the year 1887 -a Tide Table for the year 1888-an extensive local Directory with Postal and Telegraphic Regulations and Tariffs-those for Hackney Carriages and Boats-Lines of Steamers touching at Gibraltar, with their Agents, Fares, days of sailing, &c., &c.-Tables of hours of Gunfire, of the Currency, of distances in the neighbourhood, the Institutions, Schools, Amusements, &c., &c.—and a quantity of other information as useful to Inhabitants as to Visitors. A coloured Plate of the Signals used at the Station is attached, with letter-press explanation-and also a complete roll of Civil Officers of the Colony, &c., a copious Directory of the Staff and Departments (Civil and Mili- tary), Officers of Regiments, Foreign Consuls, Exchange Committee, Chamber of Com- merce, Sanitary Commissioners, the Managing Board of the Hebrew Community, Names and Addresses of Residents in the Town, and advertisements of Lines of Shipping, local Professors, Hotels, Agents, Tradesmen, &c., &c. COMPILED BY THE LATE LIEUT.-COLONEL GILBARD, POLICE MAGISTRATE, And continued on behalf of Mrs. Gilbard. JANUARY, 1888. Price-12 rvn. GIBRALTAR: GARRISON LIBRARY PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT, 1888. ENTERED AT STATIONER'S HALL. Stephen Spaulding firem, Lowdermilk 2-26-60 S5-4409 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction. HISTORY. Gibraltar-Map, Plan, and History of... (C Description of ... : : PAGE. 1 to 21 21 to 23 24 r Climate ર Rainfall and Water Supply CC Mortality ... ... ... ... : ઃઃ ઃઃ دو دو Population Geology, Botany, &c. Governors of... Trade... Public Buildings, &c. Caves Galleries CC North Front ... «Ε ' tr tr ... ... ... : ... ... Catalan Bay and Bay of Gibraltar Fortifications ... Batteries and Anecdotes of the Siege, &c. Calpe Hunt ... Curiosities of old Orders and Regulations Country in the Vicinity وو وو CC ' tr *. >> The Lines Queen of Spain's Chair Campamento and the road to San Roque San Roque Orange Grove-Carteia : : : ... ... ... The Cork Woods-First and Second Rivers Algeciras ... : : ... 25 27 : ... ... ... : : ... ... : : 28 30 137 33 34 53 54 ... ... : : 60 62 65 ... : 68 76 ... 129 ... " 80 ... 83 85 86 ... 87 90 93 94 ... Los Barrios-Castelar-The Convent (Cork Woods)—Tarifa 96 >> Ximena 97 ... ... ... : : PAGE. 98 : : ... ... 66 ... 108 110 111 114 116 118 119 121 122 126 ... ... Morocco-Ceuta... 53 CC Tangier Tetuan Travelling in Spain وو "" ور CC cr Gibraltar to Ronda, Route :- ... : ... Gaucin and Ronda (description) Ronda to Granada Malaga to Gibraltar ... : ... : ... Gibraltar to Cadiz and round the Neighbourhood Weights, Measures, &c. ... Shooting Expeditions-Casas Viejas….. rr re وو Sierra Bermeja In Morocco Licenses ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... : ... : ... ... ... 127 121 and 155 DIRECTORY. : ... : ... : : PAGE. 138 139 ... 140 id. 141 ... 142 144. 146 ... 147 148 150 ... id. 152 ... : 153 155 id. :: : ... ... ... ... Table of Gun Fire ... Streets and their Spanish names Distances in the neighbourhood Currency ... General Post Office... Rates of Postage ... ... Money Orders and Postal Orders Parcel Post ... Savings Bank ... ... ... ... : : ... : ... Steam Packet Companies-P. and O. Company To Algeciras Other Lines Telegraphs-Government (overland) Eastern Company Local ... ... ... ... ... : : : ... : ... ... ... : Regulations for Gates, Local Permits, Passports, &c. ... : ... : ... : Permits for Shooting in Spain Charges for Horses to hire for trips in the country Mean Time of High Water Port Office ... Boats Aliens : : Truck and Box Carts Guides Hackney Carriages ... Tariff for Market Porters to carry Baskets Signals with coloured plate... Yacht Club Agents, &c. Libraries, Clubs and Institutes Amusements, &c. ... Churches, Hospital, Charities, Schools, &c. Boards, Committees, &c. : Board of Health Justices of the Peace : ... : : : : : : : : : PAGE. 155 id. 156 158 160 161 ... : : : : : : ... ... : id. id. 162 164 167 168 169 171 ... 175 179 id. id. 181 Gibraltar Civil Service Names of Officers of the Garrison, Military and Civil, Royal Navy Estab- lishments and Gunboat, Members of the Principal Public Bodies, Con- suls in Gibraltar and in the neighbourhood Names and Addresses of Residents Chronicle of Events for the year 1887 : : Morocco-Regulations for Travelling and Game Laws, &c. Hotels, Guides, Horses Foreign Ministers at ... ADVERTISEMENTS : 182 192 201 165 165 166 205 3 THE SEAL OF GIBRALTAR GRANTED BY FERDINAND AND ISABELLA, 1502. "When we came To the strait Pass where Hercules ordained The boundaries not to be o'erstepped by man. DANTE. INTRODUCTION. ྋསྐ THE principal part of this present "History of Gibraltar" has been compiled from the most reliable authorities who have written on the subject, and it is hoped that no matter of real value or interest, which can throw any light on its earliest history or its present development, has been omitted; although naturally, it has been necessary to condense a quantity of detail surrounding the history of the famous Rock into a very small compass, which, in a more pretentious publication would receive, as it deserves, a more lengthened notice. The history of the sieges the Rock of Gibraltar has sustained, and more particularly that of the last, the fourteenth or "Great Siege," has been dealt with rather more at length, and many interesting anecdotes introduced in connection therewith; the history of the neighbourhood from the earliest times has been included, and the traveller in these modern days will find that hints for his guidance and information have not been forgotten. Perhaps the greatest merit of this History is that it has so little original: all available authors have been consulted, and their works extensively laid under contribution and largely appropriated; but it is hoped that a frank acknowledgment of these extensive requisitions may plead for forgiveness on this head. The sources of information thus obtained are so reliable that it cannot fail to induce a more general study of the stirring events connected with this grand old monument of which the historical incidents are of a nature so important, and extend back to such remote ages. Even now we venture to say the Rock is as little generally known for the many pages it has filled in history, as it is so often spoken of in connection with heat, insalubrity and barrenness; but those who know it well must render ample justice to the beauty of its situation, its delightful and healthy climate, its good roads, luxuriant gardens and plantations, as shown especially in the beautiful grounds of the Alameda and "The Mount," with their wealth of vegetation in magnificent trees of fir, locust, pepper and olive, and the wild luxuriance of their flowering plants; as to the natural and artificial curiosities everywhere to be seen. In no place or climate can be observed more beautiful tints of sky and water, and the sunset effects over the Spanish hills are as various and beautiful as they are sur- prising. Peeps of beauty and grandeur strike the eye at every turn, and the great Rock ii. itself, over which the Flag of England has waved for nearly two centuries, the sentinel and master of the Mediterranean, how grand! how imposing! Poussin," say the French, "could not paint it; Chateaubriand could not describe it; and, as Burke said, it is is " a post of power, a post of superiority, of connection, of commerce; one which "makes us invaluable to our friends and dreadful to our enemies." It watches over the Mediterranean, the battle sea of Europe, the waters on which commerce first wafted with white winged sails all the art and science that raises us above the savage. How grand the page of history that records the mighty deeds they have witnessed! how beautiful in picture and poetry this blue and sunlit sea stretching itself away like a sleeping lake, between the two continents which now recede gently from each other, but which, it is geographically certain, were formerly united by a deep valley. " but The Moors called the Straits Bab-ez-zakak, the "gate of the narrow passage; narrow as the gulf is we cannot but remember that it divides the land of knowledge, liberty and civilization from the untrodden regions of barbarous ignorance, of slavery, danger and mystery. The history of Gibraltar is well deserving of careful study, and it is hoped that the recital of the events and vicissitudes it has experienced may prove as useful and valuable to the student as it must be interesting and entertaining to the casual reader. The directions for travellers on riding excursions have been very carefully collected, and although expenses, &c., will, no doubt, be found to vary a little, those data given may be relied on. The excursions to be taken from Gibraltar into Andalusia are varied and numerous, and well repay a little trouble and even a little hard-living-not to men- tion the difficulty of the roads, for they are truly iniquitous, as when described by the Moorish poet- rr The valleys are gardens of Eden, but the roads are those of Hell." But if the province is the infierno of the mule and donkey, it is the paradiso of the poet, Ford says-El reino de Andalucia must take precedence over all others in Spain. Here after the fall of the Gothic rule, the Oriental took possession and left the noblest traces of power, taste, and intelligence, which centuries of neglect have not entirely effaced. From here they pushed their conquests over nearly the whole of Spain and from thence they were finally driven out. At the commencement of their dominion the Spaniards were forced by the rapid conquests of the invaders into the Provinces of Asturias, Biscay, &c., where, like the ancient Britons, they maintained a strenuous opposition. By degrees they re-assumed their former discipline and valour while their conquerors declined into luxury and effeminacy; they made excursions from the mountains, recover- ing after many obstinate actions great part of the northern provinces. This success iii. encouraged them to attempt the total rejection of the Moorish yoke. Measures were concerted among the Chiefs to act with union and with vigour. The Infidels were attacked and routed in successive engagements; and the Kingdoms of Asturias, Galicia, Leon, Navarre and Castille erected under different monarchs. Andalusia is the Tarshish of the Bible, where King Soloman sent for apes and peacocks and it was called Tartessus in the uncertain geography of the ancients, who were pur- posely kept mystified by the jealous Phoenician merchants, who had little notion of free trade. Justly did the ancients place their Elysian fields amid these golden orange- groves. This, the sweetest morsel of the Peninsula, has always been the prize and prey of the strong man, no less than the theme of poets; and the Andaluz, from the remotest periods of history, has been more celebrated for social and intellectual qualities than for the practical and industrial. It will be observed that the subject of the Levanter wind has been dealt with in a somewhat lengthy way, but to persons who have remained at Gibraltar for any pro- longed time the subject cannot fail to be of the greatest interest, as its presence or absence has so great an effect on the comfort or otherwise, of residence. The most simple explanation of this disagreeable visitor is given by Edmund Boissier in his 'Voyage Botanique dans le Midi de l'Espagne," 1837, in which an account of Gibraltar is introduced. Speaking of the "band of clouds band of clouds" on the Rock, on the Rock, he says: CC "Its formation is explained by the situation of this mountain, in the midst of waters, "and in a strait often agitated by tempestuous winds," which may be interpreted that the Easterly winds, in their course over the waters of the Mediterranean, become saturated with a considerable quantity of moisture which is precipitated on coming within the influence of the Rock; hence masses of vapour come rolling down the Rock, on the setting in of an Easterly wind, and, in a short time a dense sheet of cloud is formed along nearly the upper half of the Rock, which some times remains for days;-or to explain it in a more scientific way, as given by Professor Froude :-The Levanter has its origin in the well-known physical conditions which lead to the formation of all clouds, and clouds on mountain tops in particular. The currents of the air or mountain slopes divert air in motion, transparent and translucent, although charged with aqueous vapour held in mechanical suspension, into higher levels, or into positions where it finds a lower atmospheric pressure, and immediately the water is precipitated in the form of cloud. The back of the Rock is steep with a sharp slope of 45° reaching nearly to the top so that the East wind, having travelled far and absorbed much moisture, can only proceed. by shooting up and over the Rock or by splitting into two currents running round the North and South ends. IV. That portion of air diverted upwards precipitates its aqueous vapour near the top of the Rock and far beyond-and forms the particularly heavy cloud above described. To leeward the edges of the cloud are broken and melt continuously away whilst to windward it is replenished as fast. Boissier speaks also of another curiosity of Gibraltar, and says that a Spaniard with whom he travelled from Seville to Madrid, asserted that "the Monkeys occupied "the Rock entirely, and were so numerous that no ships could da re approach land with- "out running the risk of being sunk." The intending visitor, however, may be assured that he need have no fear either of the Gibraltar Levanter or Gibraltar Apes; he may find the former occasionally disagree- able, he will find neither dangerous. The History of Gibraltar has been so intimately connected with that of Spain, and more particularly its capture by the English having been a consequence of the political condition of the country and the disputes for its sovereignty, that a short account of the successions to the throne may fitly close our introductory remarks and the more particularly when we recall the fact that for a period of one hundred years Spain en- joyed a succession of political and military triumphs that have, perhaps, never been surpassed in rapidity and completeness for they fill many brilliant pages of History. It presents a marvellous record of rapid and supreme success as quick in its decay as in its culmination. The Moorish dynasty in Spain came to an end during the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella (which was also memorable for the establishment of the Inquisition and the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus), and on the death of Isabella in 1506 Philip, Archduke of Austria, came to Castile in order to take possession of that King- dom as heir to his mother-in-law; but he, dying a short time after, his son Charles V., afterwards Emperor of Germany, became heir to the Crown of Spain, which he assumed in 1517. Never before was accumulated such great power in Europe upon one head as Charles V. inherited. The two momentous marriages-that of Maximilian I. with the hereditary Princess of Burgundy and that of his son, Philip I., with Joanna of Spain, made her son Charles the master of inmense countries, as he had scarcely taken his seat on the Throne of Spain than he was also elected to succeed Maximilian as Emperor of Ger- many in spite of the pretensions of Francis I, King of France. The jealousy between these potentates cost Europe four sanguinary wars. After thirty-nine years of constant wars Charles, in 1556, resigned the Empire to his brother Ferdinand, and bis hereditary v. dominions, Spain, Italy, Flanders and the American possessions to his son Philip II., at which period the Throne of Spain was immensely powerful. Besides that fine and warlike country it governed also in Europe the two Sicilies, the Milanese, the seventeen Provinces of the Low Countries and Franche Compté; in Africa, Tunis and Oran with their territories, the Canaries and some of the Cape Verd Islands; in Asia, the Phillippines, the Islands of Sundi and a part of the Malaccas; in America, the Empires of Mexico and Peru, New Spain, ('hili and almost all the Islands situate between the two countries. The troops of Spain were the first in Europe, her immense fleets covered the seas and the mines of Potosi and Chili, lately opened, were in full vigour and enriched Cadiz with an annual tribute of twenty millions sterling. Philip II. was the master of all these possessions; he had recently married the Queen of England, and the passionate fondness of Mary for a husband who made no return to her affection gave him the command of all the forces of her Kingdom. In his reign Portugal also was added to his sceptre after sanguinary encounters with the partisans of Catherine, Duchess of Braganza, who was in the same degree of affinity to the late King, and this possession included the Portuguese Colonies on the Coasts of Africa, Brazil and the richest Islands of the Indies. The "Invincible Armada" of 130 ships, which so signally failed in its object, was fitted out by him for the conquest of England in 1588 to chastise the Power which was abetting the revolution in Flanders and to crush the spirit of revolt of the Flemings. He died in 1598 after a reign of 43 years, and was succeeded by Philip III., his son by his fourth wife Anna of Austria, who died after a reign of 22 years, and in the following reign of Philip IV., Portugal shook off its bonds by a happily conducted Revolution in 1640, and the Independence of the Netherlands was acknowledged after thirty years of war. In 1665 Philip IV. died and his successor Charles II., being only four years of age, the Queen Dowager, Mary Anne of Austria governed the Kingdom. The King when eighteen years of age married a daughter of Philip, Duke of Orleans, who by her mother was grand-daughter to Charles I. of England; but this marriage producing no issue, on the death of the King which happened in 1700, the succession to the Crown of Spain was contested between Philip, Duke of Anjou, second son of the Dauphin and grandson to Louis XIV., by Maria Teresa, whom the deceased King had in his will named for his immediate successor, and the Archduke Charles of Austria, brother to the Emperor Joseph, when the increasing power of the French Monarchy caused the "Grand Alliance" to be formed between the Maritime Powers to place the crown on the head of the Arch- duke Charles. vi. 啬 ​This occasioned a long and destructive war during which Gibraltar was taken (as is described elsewhere), but the unexpected death of the Emperor Joseph in 1711 entirely changed the political aspect of Europe, for Charles, who had assumed the title of King of Spain, succeeding his brother in the Empire, the idea of maintaining the balance of power in Europe which had procured the Archduke such powerful support against the pretensions of Philip, pointed out the bad policy of suffering the Empire, and the Kingdom of Spain to be again held by the same sovereign. This, together with reverses which had happened to Charles, brought about the peace of Utrecht, which confirmed the Crown of Spain to Philip but stripped it of all those valuable European appendages which had for many years been annexed to that monarchy. Belgium, Naples, Sicily and Milan were resigned to Austria; Sardinia to Savoy, and Minorca and Gibraltar to England. To prevent also the danger apprehended from two kingdoms being possessed by one. Prince of the house of Bourbon, Philip V. solemnly renounced his right to the Crown of France in case the succession should happen to devolve on him, and his brothers, the Dukes of Berri and Orleans, on their parts, renounced all claim to the Crown of Spain. Philip V. died in 1746, and was succeeded by Ferdinand VI., his son by his first Queen, who reigned thirteen years, and dying without issue was succeeded by his half brother Charles III. then King of the two Sicilies. Under his reign the Bourbon family compact of 1761 involved Spain, to its injury, in the war between England and France--and the Great Siege of Gibraltar resulted in failure. Charles IV. ascended the throne in 1788, and at first entered with zeal into the war against the French Republic, but afterwards concluded a discreditable peace, and in 1796 entered into an offensive and defensive alliance with France and declared war against England, which was ended by the peace of Amiens in 1802. In 1803 Spain again declared war against England, and in 1807 Charles concluded a secret treaty with Napoleon respecting the division of Portugal, and 28,000 French soldiers maintained by Spain, marched over the Pyrenees. The family quarrels of the Royal family favoured the plans of Napoleon. Charles received the French as allies and in 1808 resigned the crown in favour of his son Ferdinand, but having retracted his resignation, and the affairs of the Royal family having become wretchedly embroiled Napoleon did not fail to profit by it, naming his brother Joseph, King of Spain, and had it not been for the energetic support of Great Britain the struggle for power could not have lasted long. Thus was brought on the Peninsula War, at the end of which Fer- dinand VII. was seated on the throne, and here we may close our remarks on Spanish history as affecting that of Gibraltar. vii. The origin of the Carlist wars may be summed up in a few words. Don Carlos the brother of King Ferdinand was heir presumptive to the throne, until on the birth of a Royal Princess (afterwards Isabella II.) in 1830, by Maria Christina the fourth wife of Ferdinand, a royal decree rendered the crown hereditary in the female line in default of male heirs, and entirely changed the relations of the Prince to the throne. During a severe illness in 1832 Ferdinand, at the instigation of the friends of Don Carlos, renewed the Salic Law which rendered the throne of Spain hereditary only in the male line, but on his recovery the weak monarch protested that the decree had been extorted from him, and he then declared his daughter to be the only legitimate successor and Don Carlos was banished. Ferdinand died in 1833, having appointed Queen Christina Regent, till his daughter attained the age of 18 years. Don Carlos however claimed the throne in virtue of the Salic Law, although it had been repealed and was never in fact practically in force. Hence the Civil Wars which have so often deluged the fair country with blood, success- ively raised to almost supreme power many men of ambition and energy, and militated most powerfully against any advancement or improvement in the country. We trust that these wars may never be renewed, and that the country, so long torn by internal dissensions, may, under a strong and settled Government, continue in improvement and in the development of its unparalleled resources. The books consulted, on the subject of Gibraltar, to assist in the compilation of the resent History, are the following; of which Ayala's Work, Montero's History, Sayer's History and Ford's Handbook for Spain have been especially laid under contribution : The notes on Sporting in Andalusia have been contributed by Mr. Glassford and Mr. L. Bland, of Gibraltar, and Captain Kelham, H.L.I., and those on Sport in Morocco. " -a very are taken from Colonel Irby's "Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar interesting book to the sportsman and the naturalist. Besides these the author has received the greatest assistance, in local matters, from many gentlemen of the town and neighbourhood, who have been most kind in furnishing information. Ayala's History. Bell's Translation of the same. Montero's Historia de Gibraltar. Sayer's History. Ford's Handbook. Heriot's Historical Sketch of Gibraltar. Dodd's History. James' Straits of Gibraltar. Conolly's History of the Royal Sappers and Miners. Neale's Life of the Duke of Kent. English and Edinburgh Enclyclopædias Madoz's Diccionario Geografico. Carter's Journal from Gibraltar to Malaga. History of the British Colonies. Kelaat's Flora Calpensis. viii. = • -! And for Morocco : Leared's Morocco and the Moors. Hay's Western Barbary. A Winter in Morocco. As in the recital of historical events names of different Sovereigns of Spain have been introduced, it will be useful and instructive to give those contemporary with them. in England and France that a clear idea may be formed of the times when certain events occurred. The period selected for a commencement is about the time when the Spaniards finally wrested Gibraltar from the Moors. SPAIN. 1485 İsabel la Católioa 1550 Carlos V. 1560 Felipe II. ENGLAND. FRANCE. Charles VIII. Francis I. Charles IX. Henry VII. 1515 Fernando de Aragon ... Henry VIII. Edward VI. Elizabeth ... ... Henry II. Charles I. Louis XIV. Anne Louis XIV. George III. George III. Victoria 1644 Felipe IV. 1705 Felipe V. 1760 Carlos III. 1808 Fernando VII. 1840 Isabel II. Louis XV. Napoleon. Louis Philippe. 1 G. J. G. GIBRALTAR Bracon BAY New Mole Spanish Lines (Linea de la Concepcion) Villa San Jose Barrac Sp. Gd Ho. Sp Gd Ho G House Watering Jettys NEUTRAL GROUND Road British Engine H Passport Ho Lines. Gartens FRONT. Base Course NORTH Bayside Jetty. Bayside G Cricket F Trandation Jews Cemetery Hospitals 1.F. Red Old Mole Wharf andy Port Coal Biore Kings Bashop Mogor Gen Trish Tov THE CONV 63300 Casema Barrag rotestant Cathedral Moorish Cas Cartle Ten The Palag Chpre Convent Gardes Porrals Furth Gard Rogged Stan Watering Plaza LF. Green Landing Jumpers Bastion, New Mole Parade Alameda Gardens Slunati Asylu Moon Stand Kennets Cametery Ruins of St Barbara Spr 6 Ho SpGH Rifle Karse Butte Cattle Sheda Blard's Timber Yard Devils Tower Slaughter- Houses Rubbish Shoot SE A Bruce Fav Pwingedly; Middle Hill N E A N Catalan Bay Sigual shis TERRA Charles W Sandy Bay ANIGES Josephs Fourch Bighest Tour Hards lower For Georges Rosia Bay Officer's Bathing Ho ND Windhull Barrack Buernic Vista P. Shingle Pt GIBRALTAR Europa B Scale: 52 Inches to 1 English Statute Mile. Little Europa P 920. 440 630 880. 1100 Bu Bar Green Europu 1320. CQHou Europa Windmill Hill Flatl uffade Bluf Sommere Conge Passage P 1540. Great Europa P 108 rt via. 15 m. 1760. Yards. MED I Blakstrap Bay GIBRALTAR. THE mountain of Gibraltar is situated in 36° 6' 30" N. latitude and 5° 21′ 12″ W. longitude, in the Province of Andalusia, the Tartesides of the Phoenicians, the Iberia of the Greeks, and the Boetica of the Romans. The Vandals called it Vandalia, according to the Archbishop of Toledo, who wrote in the year 1243, and hence Andalusia, the Andaluz of the Moors. Gibraltar is the Mons Calpe of the ancients (Ptoly. lib. 11, cap. 4). "The Mountain of Calpe and column in the inner sea;" from its protruding into the sea from the main land like a bucket ; it was known as one of the Pillars of Hercules, the other being Mount Abyla, Apes Hill in Africa (Monte Almina), and was first known to the Phoenicians; it is referred to and described by both Greek and Roman writers, but there is little doubt that it was not inhabited until the Mohammedan Invasion of Spain, which established an infidel dynasty in that country for upwards of 800 years. On this Rock they first landed, and from here, when the Christian arms had regained supremacy, the last remnant of a glorious empire retired into Barbary. It was possessed successively by the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Visigoths, but was of little value in the infancy of shipping and before a necessity for strongholds occurred. When the Province of Boetica (now Andalusia) fell into the hands of the Car- thaginians, Calpe became of great use and a watch tower was erected thereon from whence the Roman gallies might be observed. Scipio dispossessed the Cartha- ginians of Boetica, and the Romans held that and Calpe till A.D. 412, when at the close of that century the Goths gave the first check to the Roman power, and that division called the Visigoths seized on Ulterior Spain (Trans-Hispania), the Romans being entirely driven out of Spain A.D. 568. The Goths were Arian Christians and built two churches in the neighbourhood of Calpe, one at St. Roque and a chapel or oratory on the mountain itself. This was about the centre of the Middle Hill and was chiefly the resort of those who made pilgrimages of penance. In the year A.D. 710 the Gothic Kingdom which had existed in Spain for three hundred years was distracted by intestine divisions, the nation had become effeminate and were totally neglecting the military discipline of their ancestors, 20 when Count Ilyan, a nobleman of great wealth and influence and Governor of Ceuta the only port in Africa attached to Spain, smarting under a private injury, combined with other discontented chiefs who were ripe for revolt, among them being two sons of the late King-but not being strong enough to oppose their Monarch Roderic, the Count retired into Africa, and acquainting the Emir Mousa the Saracen Governor of the Western Provinces with the divided state of the Empire, promised if he would attempt to dethrone Roderic to assist him with his own interest and that of his friends. Mousa communicated the project to his Sovereign, who agreed to try its practicability and sent over a small detachment of 500 men under Tarif-Abú-Zara in September A.D. 710, to inspect more closely the state of affairs; they embarked at Tangier and landed on the coast near the present town of Tarifa, where finding no opposition they ravaged the neighbouring country and returned laden with spoils. This invader gave his name to the Town of Tarifa. On April 30, 711, the Moorish chief, Tarik-Ibn-Zeyad, landed with an army of 12,000 men at Algeciras from Ceuta, entrenched himself on the heights of Alge- ciras and possessed all the principal points in the Bay. The object of his invasion being of a more serious nature than that of the former expedition he determined to secure communication with Africa by establishing a post on the coast, and preferring the strong natural situation of Mons Calpe sent a detachment there, giving orders to erect a castle on the face of the hill which might answer the original purpose and also cover his retreat in case he should be unfortunate in his future operations. The present Moorish Castle is the remains of this once mag- nificent pile. From this chieftain the Rock took its name, Gebal-Tarik or the Mountain of Tarik, from whence the name Gibraltar. Tarik then marched into the country and surprised many towns, among others Carteia, and finally met the Gothic army under Roderic, King of the Visigoths, near Medina-Sidonia in Andalusia, and a bloody conflict ensued, but the Gothic army being raw and disaffected Tarik at length prevailed, and by this victory was left in possession of the whole kingdom, as he rapidly overran the country. Toledo, the Capital, was sacked, city after city surrendered to him, and ere the year had closed the Moorish dynasty was established. Count Ilyan, the traitor who had betrayed his native country to the ravages of the avowed enemies of the Christian faith met with a just reward at the hands of the Moors; his wife was stoned to death-his son they threw headlong from the top of the castle of Ceuta ; the Count was stripped of all his possessions, and he miserably expired in irons in a fort in the territory of Huesca, near Tarragona. Naturally the Moors attached the greatest importance to the Rock, and the port was greatly frequented as well for the disembarkation of the troops with which they overran the country as by the emigrants from all the Mahometan 3 dominions who came to establish themselves in Spain. One of the Granadian poets thus alludes to it :-"The Mountain of Tarik is like a beacon spreading its rays over the seas, and rising far above the neighbouring mountains. One would say that its face almost reaches the sky and that its eyes are watching the stars in the celestial tracts." There is no doubt that Gibraltar derives its name from a corruption of the two words, Gebal-Tarik, although other derivations have been suggested-Gibel-fath, Mountain of the Entrance, being the key that let the Moors into Spain; Gibel- fetch, Mountain of Victory (Leo Africanus) and Jabal-fath. Of the important events which in the years after the first occupation continually occurred in the district of Gibraltar little is now known, but it is certain they were connected with the frequent revolutions and wars in which Spain was con- tinually engaged with the opposite coast of Africa. In 1086 Gibraltar was in the possession of the Caliph Yusef ben Taxfin, and at this time the Spanish Moors, unable to contend with the forces brought against them by Alfonso of Castille, had implored aid from Africa. This was granted, and a powerful Moslem army was sent into Spain, which meeting the Christians near Badajoz defeated them with immense slaughter of 35,000 men, soon afterwards turning on their weaker brethren from whom they wrested the country. During these strifes Gibraltar was for a time in the possession of both parties. In 1161 the primitive fortifications constructed by Tarik were largely increased by Abd-1-Mumen Ibn Ali, Caliph of the Almohades, who named Gibraltar Jeha- lu-l-Fatch (Mountain of Victory). They became most formidable, and afforded great facilities for succouring the neighbouring towns. In 1309 the Rock was, for the first time, exposed to a regular siege, and taken by Alonzo de Guzman (el Bueno) detached from the Army of Ferdinand IV. of Spain, who was then ineffectually besieging Algeciras, after it had been in the power of the Moors for 598 years. Ferdinand settled the Government of Gibraltar and granted a Municipal Con- stitution to the place by Letters Patent of Privileges issued from Jerez de la Frontera (1310) in order that every means might be employed for encouraging an increase of population for the defence of the Rock and the district belonging to it, for the extreme danger that in those days was incurred by being near the coast, unless in fortified places, in consequence of the continual inroads of the Moors, who plundered the inhabitants and carried away oaptive those they did not murder, caused the district of Gibraltar to be but thinly peopled. By these means Gibraltar became, in fact, an asylum for delinquents and criminals almost of every grade, for by a short residence there, as in other frontier towns, they were exempt from the punishment that elsewhere awaited them. 4 It was retaken by the Moors in A.D. 1333, chiefly on account of the treachery of the Governor who diverted to his own uses the means granted by the King for the maintenance of the Garrison and purchase of arms; for he sold the stores he had charge of to the Moors, but it reverted to the dominion of the Christians in 1462, when the Spaniards wrested it from the Moslem dynasty which was rapidly drifting to its final dissolution. The Moors held Gibraltar altogether for 751 years, and it may be described as their first landing-place in, and their last point of departure from, Europe. Up to this time Gibraltar had sustained eight sieges, and was to sustain many more before it remained finally in the hands of the English Nation. The sieges were:- 1. In 1309.-Taken from the Moors by Alonzo de Guzman. 2. In 1315.-Ismail-ben-Feras, of Granada, besieged Gibraltar unsuccess- fully. 3. In 1333.-Besieged by Abul-Hasar, Sultan of Fez, and taken by starva- tion after a gallant defence of 4 months. 4. In 1333.—Besieged unsuccessfully by Alphonso XI. of Castille, when bat- tering machines of various kinds were used. 5. In 1349.-Besieged again by Alphonso, whose death of the plague in 1350 caused operations to cease. (In 1410, the inhabitants of Gibraltar rose against the Granadian Moors, drove them out of the fortress, and placed themselves under the protection of the Emperor of Morocco, who sent 1,000 horse and 2,000 foot to garrison it. 6. In 1411.-Besieged by Yusuf, King of Granada and taken through star- vation. 7. In 1435.-Besieged unsuccessfully from the sea by Henry de Guzman, Count de Niebla, who was accidentally drowned in the re- treat, his body being placed in a coffin and suspended from one of the turrets of the Barcina, a suburb of the Castle. (Artillery was used against Gibraltar for the first time in this siege.) 8. In 1462.-Taken by the Spaniards under Alonzo de Arcos, Rodrigo Ponce de Leon and John de Guzman, Duke of Medina-Sidonia. Alonzo de Arcos was Alcalde of Algeciras and the result of the enterprise was mainly due to his energy; he was advanced to high honour by the King. The inscription on his tomb in the Carthusian Monastery at Seville is, "Here lies interred the much honoured Alonzo de Arcos, of Tarifa, who recovered Gibraltar from the enemies of our Holy faith. He departed this life in the year 1477 having been a great benefactor to this Holy House." The surrender took place 5 . on 20th August, 1462, Saint Bernard's Day, which Saint became the Patron of Gibraltar, and whose anniversary has been always celebrated accordingly. Gibraltar was occupied and garrisoned by the Duke of Medina Sidonia, but King Henry of Castille lost no time in announcing to the nation his intention of annexing it to the Royal Dominions, and made certain regulations for the increase of its population by annexing to it the district of Algeciras; the whole district, now the Campo of Gibraltar and including the town of Ximena, comprising 29 leagues in circumference. The King visited the city in 1463 and on leaving gave the office of Alcalde of the district to his favourite Bertran de la Cueva, and the lieutenancy of the city to Estevan de Villacreces. In 1465 anarchy prevailed in Spain, and the Infante Don Alonzo, then only 11 years of age, was nominated King by his party, and conferred on the Duke of Medina Sidonia the city and territory of Gibraltar for him and his successors for ever. The Duke immediately laid siege to Gibraltar (the ninth), which was taken after a desperate resistance of fourteen months by Estevan de Villacreces, in June, 1467, and the King having died in 1468 the second Duke was confirmed in its possession by Royal Decree of 1469 by his successor Henry IV., the Sovereign Seigniorial Rights only being reserved. The first care of the Duke of Medina, Don Juan Alonzo, on taking possession of the Castle was to remove the body of his father that had remained suspended in a coffin over the gate of the Barcina. Every inducement was again held out to settlers and special privileges conferred for the aggrandizement of Gibraltar. In 1474 the King died, and was succeeded by Ferdinand and Isabella, who again in 1478 confirmed the gift conferring also on the family the title of Mar- quess of Gibraltar, but Queen Isabella had always entertained an ardent desire to recover the city of Gibraltar and unite it to the Crown of Castille. Utrera was offered to the Duke in exchange but was not accepted. In 1492 the second Duke of Medina Sidonia died, and his son applied to their Majesties for a confirmation of his titles to Gibraltar and its territory, to which he received for reply that on his giving up the city the rest should be confirmed. The Duke refused indignantly, and it was left for thirty-four subsequent years in the possession of the Medina family, being found highly serviceable to the Crown in facilitating the expeditions for the conquest of Melilla in 1497, and other settlements on the coast of Africa. But in 1502, after mature reflection on the part of the Spanish Monarchs, by whom the importance of possessing Gibraltar was fully appreciated, an annexation to the Crown was finally determined on, recourse being had for an explanation of its resumption to the Sovereign Seigniorial Rights reserved, and Gibraltar was annexed to the Crown of Castille being taken possession of with all due solemnity. In 1504 Queen Isabella died at Medina del Campo and Castille was again 6 threatened with revolution, during which Don John de Guzman, Duke of Medina Sidonia, attempted to repossess himself of Gibraltar, which he invested and blockaded for many months (10th siege); but finding there little disposition to surrender he raised the siege, making ample reparation to all within the district. whose property he had injured. The act of restitution, by order of the Queen, was made with particular ceremony; a table covered with monies was placed in the Atarazana (Casemate Square) and there each person received the amount of damage proved to have been sustained. For the conduct of its inhabitants on this occasion Gibraltar received the title of "Most loyal.” At the request of the inhabitants a Coat of Arms was granted to the City, which in consideration of Gibraltar being a fortress and the Key of the Spanish Dominions consisted of a Castle with a Golden Key pendant with the following inscription:"Seal of the Noble City of Gibraltar, the Key of Spain." The Deed of grant, signed by Ferdinand and Isabella, was preserved in the Archives at San Roque. Soon after its surrender Gibraltar was made a penal settlement, and great num- bers of convicts were sent there to assist in extending the fortifications and re- pairing the defences. Their Majesties ordered also large sums to be expended in rebuilding the principal Church, formerly a Mosque : the North side was extended and the Royal Arms engraved thereon besides other additions. The accession of these Monarchs and the consolidation of the Kingdom of Aragon with Castille was the signal for the destruction of the Moorish dynasty in Spain, for in 1489 Ferdinand took the field with 50,000 foot and 12,000 horse, and with this formidable force marched against the enemy. The Moors, whose power had been gradually on the wane, were utterly helpless against such forces. Town after town submitted and in 1491 the great city of Granada was invested by 60,000 men: it surrendered after a most heroic defence the following year, and the banners of Christendom floated from the towers of the Alhambra. In 1609 the last relics of the Moorish race were expelled from Spain; 600,000 of them being forcibly driven out of the provinces; and from Gibraltar in 1610 a fleet of gallies embarked the last of the exiles and cast them destitute on the shores of Africa. The following clause in the Will of Queen Isabella strongly evinces the feel- ing she entertained with respect to the perpetual annexation of Gibraltar to the Royal Crown. It is my will and desire, inasmuch as the City of Gibraltar has been surren- dered by Don Henry de Guzman, has been restored to the Royal Crown, and been inserted among its titles, that it shall for ever so remain: I ask and require of 7 the Kings, my successors, that they may hold and retain the said city for them- selves, and in their own possession; and that no alienation of it, nor any part of it, nor of its jurisdiction, civil or criminal, shall ever be made from the Crown of Castille. Gibraltar was under the dominion of Spain until 1704, not however without witnessing some obstinate struggles, once owing to an attack in 1540 by cor- sairs under Dali Hamat, one of Barbarossa's Captains, who having sailed from Algiers with the bold design of taking the fortress by assault, surprised and pil- laged Gibraltar, and at other times due to internal dissensions. The pirates landed at Europa and overran the city seizing and sending on board the galleys as captives all who came in their way, including several men of rank and wealth, afterwards passing across the Bay and landing at Orange Grove, where they pillaged, murdered or took prisoners all who resisted them. The country along the shore was laid waste, the cattle destroyed and the vineyards burnt. The pirate flotilla was however intercepted at Carthagena by the Spanish fleet and dispersed, 837 Christian captives being liberated. Following the pillage of the city by the corsairs the Emperor Charles V., grandson of Ferdinand, ordered a more complete system of defence to be car- ried out. The Landport Gate was rebuilt and a battery constructed with a deep ditch facing the approach on the land side. In 1552 a celebrated Milan Engineer, Juan Bautiste Calvi, traced out other important works, viz., Charles V. Wall, from Southport Gate to the precipice and another from there to the top of the hill; by the means of these walls the city was entirely enclosed, and approach from the South rendered almost impossible. In 1575 further additions were made by an Italian Engineer, Fratino, and three bastions were built-Santa Cruz (now Jumper's), Rosario at Southport, and another, now the King's Bastion. In 1618 the Old Mole was strengthened and repaired, and in 1620 the Tower de Puerto (New Mole Battery) was renewed and enlarged, at the foot of which was then commenced the New Mole. It was originally intended to defend the entrance to the Bay and give shelter to vessels pursued by the Moors or other enemies, and was an important work, having its separate Governor, artillery and troops. From the Southport Gate the wall was also repaired to the Old Mole, within which was the Arsenal (now Casemate Barracks); this communicated with the Castle, of which it formed a part. In those days the town was composed of the Castle and the three suburbs called Villavieja, Barcina and Turba. The Castle and the first of these joined and formed the old Moorish Town, to which the other two quarters were after- wards added. The Villavieja (Old Town) and Barcina were walled in and had their separate gates and towers for defence. The Turba was open but was also comprised within Charles V. Wall. 8 During the war of the Spanish Succession, which commenced in 1701, Gibraltar was taken after a siege of only three days (11th siege), by a squadron under the command of Sir George Rooke, on July 24, 1704, in co-operation with a land force of 1,800 English and Dutch troops under Prince George of Hesse Darm- stadt, the siege being an afterthought following a repulse at Barcelona: although the works were very strong and mounted 100 pieces of ordnance, well appointed with ammunition and stores, yet the garrison consisted of only 150 men, the in- habitants numbering 6,000 souls. The fortifications at that time on the sea face consisted of those mentioned above, and a strong line wall compassing the town from North to South and terminating at either extremity at the New and Old Moles. On the latter was a tower called Leandro which blew up the day the place was taken. All these works were armed with heavy ordnance, and the line wall mounted with artillery along its whole length. A few hundred yards north of the New Mole was a small bastion also heavily armed (now Little Jumper's). A bombardment of six hours took place on the second day, when 15,000 shots were thrown into the town, and the Garrison surrendered. From that time the English flag has waved triumphantly, although not unmo- lested, over this inestimably important fortress-for the year did not pass away without an attempt to recover by Spain, in conjunction with the French, what was now by common consent allowed to be one of the keys of Europe; the for- tress, then garrisoned by 3,000 men, being attacked by 17,000 Spaniards and French, under the Marquis de Villadarias, a French squadron of 12 ships of the line and 7 frigates; but the attempt, after a six months' siege, was unsuccessful; and this, the 12th siege the fortress had sustained, cost the besiegers 10,000 men. It was during this siege that a party of 500 volunteers, under Colonel Figue- roa, who had ascended the east side of the Rock by a path called the Senda del Pastor, which was shown them by a Gibraltar goatherd named Susarte, and had hidden themselves in St. Michael's Cave, passed over Charles V.'s Wall the next morning, and surprised and put to the sword the Middle Hill Guard, but were overthrown and nearly all killed by the Grenadiers of the Garrison, under Prince Henry of Darmstadt, the promised support from their comrades being, through some jealousy between the French and Spanish commanders, never sent and they having only three rounds of ammunition a man. Foreign writers also say that a breach having been opened in the Landport the Spaniards were only prevented from succeeding by the defection of the French troops. Seventy thousand shot and eight thousand shells were thrown into the Garrison during this siege. The loss of the Garrison was 400 men. On the 19th February, 1706, Gibraltar was made a free port by a special decree of Queen Anne, and in 1713 it was finally ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht in the following terms: 9 Art. X.-The Catholic King doth hereby for himself, his heirs and successors, yield to the Crown of Great Britain the full and entire propriety of the Town and Castle of Gibraltar, together with the Port, fortifications and forts belonging thereto. And he gives up the said propriety to be held and enjoyed absolutely with all manner of right for ever without any exception or impediment whatsoever, but in order to avoid the abuses and frauds which might take place, by the intro- duction of merchandize, the Catholic King wishes and takes for granted that it is clearly understood that the said possession is yielded to Great Britain without any territorial jurisdiction and without any open communication with the surrounding region on the land side. * And in case the possession of Gib- raltar shall hereafter be alienated, it is covenanted that a preference to the entire exclusion of all other pretenders shall be given to the Crown of Spain. * * * * In 1720 Gibraltar seems to have been threatened by the Spaniards. Ceuta had then been besieged for many years by the Moors and a formidable force com- manded by the Marquis de Leda was assembled in Gibraltar bay under pretence of relieving it but with a secret intention of first surprising Gibraltar, for which purpose scaling ladders, &c., had been procured. But the British Ministry had timely notice, and suspecting some attempt dispatched orders te Colonel Kane, commanding at Minorca, to embark a part of his garrison and repair immediately to Gibraltar, which was in a critical condition, having only a garrison of three weak battalions and only 14 days' provisions in the town. His opportune arrival with 500 men, provisions and ammunition changed the aspect of affairs, and the Marquis of Leda sailed for Ceuta. In 1727 the Spaniards once more endeavoured to gain possession of this ancient stronghold, the defences of which had then been increased by the works on the heights above the lower Lines, called Willis's, the extension of the Prince's Lines and the formation of the Inundation from a morass in front of the Grand Bat- tery. The attack, on this occasion, was conducted entirely by land, and having lasted for five months, was ended by peace being concluded between the two countries (13th siege). The Spanish army amounted to 19,270 men, under the Count de las Torres; the Garrison was at first 1,500 men, under General Clay- ton, but was reinforced by 5,481 men under the Earl of Portmore. The Spanish batteries of 92 guns and 72 mortars opening fire in May, discharged 700 shot per hour into the town for fourteen days, to which the Garrison could only reply with 58 guns; 21 on the Grand Battery, 23 on the Old Mole, 9 at Willis's, and 5 from the Moorish Castle, many of them 6-pounders only; indeed the ordnance was of calibre so small that nearly all the guns at Willis's at that time were 6-pounders, and a 3-pounder is spoken of as having inflicted great loss on the enemy; 23 of the guns were dismounted in seven days, but by the end of May the enemy's fire was kept under, and by the beginning of June 100 guns were in 2 10 position and numerous mortars on the heights. When this mass of ordnance opened upon the Spanish batteries so crushing was the fire that not a single gun replied. Early in the day the trenches were a heap of ruins, the parapets were in flames and the magazines blown up. During this siege a conspiracy was detected among some Moors and Jews within the walls, to seize upon the Gates and by a preconcerted arrangement open them to the Spaniards. Two Moors were found guilty, were put to death and afterwards flayed; their skins were then nailed to the gates of the town, a great many pieces being cut out after- wards to send to England. The English fired 52,950 rounds and destroyed 23 mortars and 73 guns of the enemy. During this siege the Spaniards attempted to run a mine into the Rock under Willis's and Queen Anne's batteries which, from their command, had caused the greatest annoyance to the enemy. Taking advantage of a natural cave which would hold about twenty men they commenced their mine, but although it was constantly prosecuted it was never made use of, although the journal of the siege says it was loaded. In the year following this siege great changes and alterations were made in the city, and customs, &c., exclusively Spanish gave way to English and English oc- cupations, few Spaniards remaining but only Jews and Genoese traders. Every available spot on the Rock was fortified, vast sums being expended in escarp- ments and fortifications at Europa and along the sea line. The Franciscan Con- vent on the Line Wall with its beautiful gardens became the residence of the Governor; the Nunnery of Santa Clara, a barrack; the Convent of San Juan de Dios, a store; and that of the Mercenarios, the residence of the Admiral. The treaty of Utrecht in 1713 had confirmed the possession of Gibraltar to the English, but deep and deadly was the resentment in that haughty nation which had extended their conquering arms so far, to see a fortress upon their own shores held and garrisoned by the English. Proposals were constantly made and renewed for its restitution until the outbreak of hostilities again in 1726. In 1715 George I. appears to have suggested to the Court of Spain through the medium of the French Regent, the possibility of the restoration of Gibraltar upon certain conditions, and this was again renewed on the condition of the ac- cession of Philip to the Quadruple Alliance and in 1721 a letter was written by the King touching its restitution upon the footing of an equivalent, Florida being suggested as an exchange, but fortunately the Spanish King obstinately refused to cede any equivalent for the restoration of the Rock, but insisted on his right to its possession, and declined to be shackled by any condition whatever, on which active negotiations ceased. In 1725 the secret treaty was signed at Vienna be- tween Philip and the Emperor, in which the latter pledged his good offices to ob- tain the recovery of Gibraltar, and this alliance brought on the siege of 1727. In the year 1757 Mr. Pitt also conceived the idea of surrendering Gibraltar · 11 * to Spain in order to secure her alliance against France and to recover Minorca, a question mooted before on other occasions but defeated by the general feeling of the country which ran so high that public meetings on the subject were held at which it was proposed to impeach the Ministry for even entertaining the idea as was also the case in 1715 when the possibility of the cession was apprehended by the nation, who clamoured for the maintenance of its valuable possession. It is remarkable that the eyes of the English Cabinet were not open to the importance of Gibraltar. They had witnessed the impatient anxiety of Spain to effect its recovery; they had seen extensive military plans resigned, for one grand object, the subjection of Gibraltar. But although the Ministry depreciated the value of the possession, the people began to form a just estimate of its importance. The gallant defence during the last siege was a military achievement that excited the popular admiration, and Gibraltar became valuable in the eyes of the public when its name was associated with British gallantry and blood. It is not to be forgotten that had it not been for the "people" Gibraltar would now have been the stronghold of some other power. It was the dread of popular indignation that deterred subseque.it Cabinets from bartering with Spain for the restitution of the Rock, the possession of which was spoken of at the time as of questionable advantage to the nation. Bishop Burnet, writing on the subject, says: "It has been questioned by men who understand these matters well, whether our possessing ourselves of Gibraltar and our maintaining ourselves in it so long, were to our advantage or not. It has certainly put us to a great charge and we have lost many men in it; but it seems the Spaniards, who should know the importance of the place best, think it so valuable that they have been at a much greater charge and have lost many more men while they have endeavoured to recover it, than the taking and keeping it has cost us. And it is certain that in war, whatsoever loss on one side occasions a greater loss of men or treasure to the other, must be reckoned as a loss only to the side that suffers most." It is difficult to understand how such a statesman as Mr. Pitt could have been induced to entertain the notion, however important the equivalent advantages to be given in exchange, but it cannot be denied that a very general impression pre- vailed at the time that the value of the fortress had been over estimated; the ex- penses of the place were enormous and constantly increased and the maladminis- tration of the local Government a fruitful source of complaint, virulent pamphlets and articles on the subject being constantly published. There was a hatred of Military Government by persons engaged in commercial pursuits and also dissatis- faction among the military themselves. It is estimated that the emoluments of the Governor for pay and perquisites at the time were more than £20,000 per annum. This was afterwards changed, but as late as the year 1802 the salary of A 12. the Governor, by a pernicious and dangerous system was principally defrayed by the income derived from Wine House Licenses and was computed to amount to £7,000 a year from that source alone. To keep up this artificial revenue and to ease the Imperial treasury every en- couragement was given to the establishment of Public Houses and the sale of wine and spirituous liquors, the consequence of which policy in a crowded and confined garrison was that the soldiers were disorganized, riot and debauchery reigned unchecked and discipline was almost at an end. In 1760 during the Earl of Home's government two Regiments, becoming discontented, formed a plot to massacre their officers, seize the military chest and secure an escape by delivering up the fortress to the Spaniards. The conspirators numbered 730: an accidental quarrel in a wine house disclosed the plot and the ringleaders were punished with a vigorous but necessary and just severity. In 1802 the Duke of Kent was sent to Gibraltar as Governor expressly to put a stop to the abuses which were then rampant. It is said in a journal of the time "the laxity of discipline seems, in time, to have become general among the troops at the fortress and the extent to which it was carried both by officers and men was little short of disgraceful.” An old writer says: "To describe the slovenliness of their appearance, the total want of uniformity in their dress and appointments, the inaccuracy of the move- ments and the unsteadiness of both officers and men is beyond the power of language. The grossest irregularities characterized the bearing of the men when off duty. In the public streets they might be seen by scores in a state of the most disgraceful intoxication, and altogether so clothed as to resemble a roving band of lawless plunderers rather than drilled and organized soldiers." The Duke applied himself at once to the root of the disorder; he reduced the number of wine and spirit houses, which was 90, ultimately by more than one half (thus materially curtailing his own income); he provided occupation and employment for the men and enforced the rules of the service, which were very much as they are at this day, as regards roll-calls, parades, regimental drills, &c. Regimental canteens were established and stringent rules laid down for their guidance, thus forming the commencement of the canteen system in the British Army, and Regimental Schools were also established by him. In this way he re- duced crime and the health of the troops was greatly improved. His efforts for re- form, however, were neither supported by his subordinates in the Garrison nor the authorities at home, while the liquor sellers who had derived so large a profit from selling poison to the troops, and whom he had disestablished, worked on the minds of the soldiers already ripe for mutiny from the radical change which had taken place. This mutiny is described in the public prints of the day as "attributable solely to the cruelty of the Governor and his perpetual interference with the com- 13 fort of the men." As a matter of fact the officers afforded culpable opposition to every plan which had for its object the revival of subordination and control. A general rising was threatened in which the deportation of the Duke was in- tended, some say his assassination; but quarrelling among themselves they rushed to arms and attacked each others' barracks with loss of life. A partial outbreak only took place, which was suppressed chiefly by the firm conduct of a party of the Artillery, who killed three and wounded five of the mutineers; thirteen of the ringleaders were tried and ten condemned to die but only three were executed. Discipline was restored, but the triumph of law and order was not supported by the Government at home, although the troops were in real subordination for three months before the Duke was recalled; reports from the disaffected having reached England and being pressed on the Ministers, the Duke was sacrificed to party feeling, ordered home within a year after his appointment, and refused any en- quiry into his conduct, although that this had earned the esteem and gratitude of the respectable inhabitants of Gibraltar was amply evinced by their remitting to Captain Dodd, his Military Secretary, the sum of 1,000 guineas to purchase a piece of plate as a memento of their attachment to his Royal Highness and their perfect approbation of his conduct during his Government. It is stated that the Duke of York insisted on his brother's recall and enforced it, although it is no- torious that the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.) denounced it as a premium for encouraging mutiny, a measure at once absurd and unjust. The Duke of Kent established a Brewery at Europa in the hope that by the introduction of good malt liquor he should diminish among the troops the use of ardent spirits (hence the Brewery Barracks). We find it recorded in the Garrison Orders of the time that to encourage this Brewery three public houses were licensed for the sale of malt liquor alone, "The Three Light Infantry Men" in Naval Cooperage Lane, "The Three Guns" in Cannon Lane, and "The Three Grenadiers" at the Half-Way House. The result of his good measures for the health of the troops was so successful that it is recorded there were fewer deaths in Gibraltar among the troops by at least one half during his command than there had been in the same space of time for many years before or since. After the departure of the Duke the Rock speedily recovered its former character, fifty additional wine houses were opened for the accommodation of the troops, and Gibraltar again presented an aspect of brutal debauchery. A Gar- rison Order of 1806 speaks of the "shameful drunkenness that had prevailed," and a threat made of parades every two or three hours. Peace lasted in Europe until 1779, when the disturbances in the British Colonies in America revived the hopes of the Spanish Court, which still brooded 14 with a sullen enmity over the loss of Gibraltar and the defeats it had experienced before that fortress; but experience had taught them that some new and more impressive mode of attack must be devised, and the fruitless toil of the employ- ment of land works only, decided them on the necessity for a co-operating attack by sea. In the year 1774 therefore an order was issued throughout all the colleges and military seminaries of Spain that they should suspend all studies but those which had for their object the mode of attack upon fortified places by sea and land. War was again declared, and on the 11th July, 1779, the 14th, or what is best known as the "Great Siege of Gibraltar," by the French and Spaniards, com- menced, which continued until the 12th March, 1783, when the news of the signature of the preliminaries of a general peace reached the Garrison, and General Eliott, the English Governor, and the Dua de Crillon, met amicably on the neutral ground. This was the last siege the Rock of Gibraltar has sustained, and thus, despite the most strenuous efforts of soldiers in the field and of diplo- matists in the Cabinet, the Rock has remained ever since its first capture by them in possession of the English. The following are some interesting particulars of this great siege, which lasted for three years, seven months and twelve days, during which the Garrison and inhabitants were often reduced to the greatest straits from starvation; indeed in January, 1780, had not relief arrived by Rodney's Fleet the Garrison must have surrendered. General George Augustus Eliott was the Governor at the time; he is described as a man of consummate military talents, great energy and indomitable perse- verance-qualities which the memorable events of the war tested to the utmost, and which served to guide the British arms successfully through one of the severest and most protracted sieges on record. Lieut.-General Boyd was Lieut.- Governor, and Major-General de la Motte commanded the Hanoverian Brigade. The Spanish army consisted of 28,332 men, under Don Martin Alvarez de Sotomayor; the French army of 33,038 men, commanded by Baron Falkenstein; the whole under the command of the Duc de Crillon. The Garrison consisted of 5,382 men-Artillery, Engineers and a company of Artificers, 12th, 39th, 56th, 58th and 72d Regiments, and Hardenberg's, Reden's and De la Motte's Hanoverians-and was reinforced in 1780 by 1,052 (73d Highlanders), in March, 1782, by 700 (97th Regiment), and in October, 1782, by 1,600 men (25th and 59th Regiments). The naval force was commanded by Admiral Duff and comprised the "Panther," 60 guns, "Enterprise," 28, "Childers," 14, "Gibraltar," 12, and "Fortune," 15 10. 900 men were landed from this fleet, and did duty on shore as a Naval Brigade under command of Captain Curtis, R.N. It may be noted that the fortifications and magazines had been so neglected since the siege of 1727 that when General Eliott was appointed Governor in 1777 Gibraltar was almost in a state of ruin and decay and indeed almost entirely defenceless, and up to 1778 he was constantly addressing letters to the Ministers at home entreating them to increase the Garrison to give him the power of arming the defences and of forming depôts of provisions in case of siege. Fire was first opened from the Fortress on the 12th September, 1779, the wife of an officer, Mr. Skinner of the Soldier Artificer Company, discharging the first gun to the signal of General Eliott; Britons, strike home. Mrs. Skinner was a relation of the Power family in Gibraltar. In January, 1780, the Garrison was relieved by Admiral Sir G. Rodney. On the 7th June, of the same year, the Squadron was attacked by nine Spanish fire boats, but they were driven off and the boats destroyed, after which a fleet of gunboats was organised by the enemy, carrying each a 26-pounder. They bom- barded the town and barracks nearly every night during the remainder of the siege, and caused great annoyance, the Town being reduced to ruins and the inhabitants being obliged to seek shelter among the rocks at the South for the safety of their lives. On the 12th April, 1781, the Garrison was relieved by an English Fleet under Admiral Darby, at which time the fortress was in the greatest extremity for want of provisions; the ordinary means of sustenance had been almost exhausted; supplies from Barbary were meagre and rarely reached the Garrison; bread was served out under protection of a guard; and roots, reeds, thistles and wild onions were greedily sought after and devoured by the famished inhabitants. The terrible prospect of famine loomed in the future, and to add to the despair was the fear of a general bombardment which had caused the inhabitants to flee to the South and live in huts and tents, abandoning the town and their houses. At this time the Governor made trial what quantity of rice would suffice a single person for 24 hours, and actually lived himself eight days on four ounces of rice per day. During this dreadful time, in spite of every precaution, the merchants managed to conceal their goods and to sell them at exorbitant prices. The relief by Admiral Darby infuriated the besiegers, and a furious bombard- ment was opened by the enemy from 170 guns and 80 mortars for six weeks, 56,000 shot and 20,000 shell being fired into the town. Only seventy men of the Garrison were killed. The town, then deserted by the population, became the prey of the excited troops. The shells, breaking through the buildings and bursting the walls of the stores opened up the large accumulations of spirits, provisions and stores of all descriptions which the greedy merchants had hoarded # 16 waiting till distress should rise prices to an usurious standard. When the sol- diers discovered these secreted hoards, and remembered the suffering and pri- vation they had gone through for want of these very supplies, they gave unbridled license to their resentment and plundered without restraint until the severest measures were put in force to arrest the pillaging. The Governor, learning from spies and deserters and from personal observation that the enemy, confiding in their superior strength and never for a moment sup- posing that the Garrison would venture to risk an offensive movement, left their works weakly defended, while their guards were negligent and listless, determined tó take advantage of the false security into which they were lulled, and to endea- vour to destroy by a bold stroke the whole of their magnificent works in the ad- vanced trenches. Accordingly on the 27th November, 1781, a great sortie was made by the Garrison on the enemy's trenches and batteries. The force consisted of 103 officers and 2,065 men, under General Ross, 72d Regiment. These were formed up on the Red Sands at midnight without any previous warning to the troops; the countersign for the night being "Steady," and steadily indeed they marched to the attack and fell into their appointed places for the assault. The daring enterprise was completely successful, the ardour of the assailants was irresistible, the enemy fled on all sides, abandoning with the utmost precipi- tation the formidable works which it had cost them so much labour and so much blood and treasure to erect. They were completely destroyed, the assailants losing only four men killed, and one officer and twenty-five men wounded. In the enemy's lines 10 thirteen inch mortars and 18 twenty-six pounders were spiked. It is estimated that the construction of these works under fire from the Garrison had cost three millions of money, and the lives of 5,000 men. Never was success more complete. The Pioneers and Artillerymen speedily levelled and destroyed the stupendous parapets; the gabions and platforms were kindled and the fire spread with such rapidity that in half an hour all the lines of approach, communications and traverses were in flames and soon reduced to ashes. The mortars and cannon were spiked and nearly all the magazines exploded. The inactivity of the Spanish cavalry on this occasion has been much commented on. Booth says:-" About 40 of the cavalry did come out of the lines, but upon seeing such superior forces hurried back again as fast as their horses' legs could carry them." The following are the few words in which this splendid exploit is recorded, as taken from the Garrison Orders :-"The bravery and conduct of the whole "detachment, officers, seamen and soldiers on this glorious occasion surpasses the "Governor's utmost acknowledgments." In the same order book Brigadier Ross also begs to thank the Governor for entrusting him with the command, and de- 17 : sires to make a most public avowal of the firm good behaviour of the officers and men on that occasion. Nothing can exceed the splendour of this feat of arms conducted by little over 2,000 men, drawn from a weak and sickly Garrison, on a front of such force and extent, protected by lines and forts which covered it, mounting 135 pieces of heavy artillery, and in presence of an army of 14,000 men encamped at the small distance of a mile and a half from their gates. The result was owing to the per- fect secrecy of all the arrangements and the complete surprise of the enemy. When the troops entered the batteries the written report of the Spanish Coɔm- manding Officer was found in one of the splinter proofs. It stated that nothing extraordinary had happened during the night: an impression slightly premature. General Eliott took no part in the command, although he followed the attack- ing columns from the fortress and was present in the batteries of the enemy. His conduct in thus imperilling his own life, jeopardizing the fate of the fortress and interfering with the responsibility of General Ross, was the subject of some unfavourable comment both at the time and afterwards, and it was reasonably asked, What would have been the consequence had the 14,000 Spanish troops in camp advanced against the place while the sortie was going on? As it was, so paralyzed was the enemy that during the terrific conflagration they stood almost silent spectators of the scene. On the works being repaired they again experienced considerable damage by a continued fire of ied hot shot, proposed by General Boyd, when the whole of the advanced works were again consumed. In the summer of 1782 the batteries in the Galleries were commenced. In September a supreme effort was made by the enemy to reduce the fortress, for which the most extensive preparations had been made both by land and sea. The defence having hitherto been so stubborn, rewards had been offered to the most skilful engineers in Europe for plans to subdue the fortress; that of the Chevalier d'Arçon being accepted, consisting of a combined attack by sea and land upon a scale, so tremendously formidable, and assisted by floating batterics, incombustible and insubmergible, of the most ingenious invention, that it held out a prospect of certain success. A short description of these formidable vessels will be interesting. Ten ships of from 600 to 1,400 tons burden were cut down to the proper proportions, and upwards of 200,000 cubic feet of timber were used in their construction. Each was clad on its fighting side with three successive layers of squared timber, three feet in thickness; within this wall ran a body of wet sand, and within that again was a line of cork soaked in water, to prevent the effects of splinters, the whole being bound together by strong wooden bolts. To protect the crews from shells 3 18 or dropping shot a hanging roof was contrived, composed of strong rope-work netting, covered with wet hides and shelving to prevent the shot from lodging. Not the least remarkable part of these vessels was a plan to prevent combustion. A reservoir was placed beneath the roof from which numerous pipes circulated through the sides of the ship, giving a constant supply of water to every part and keeping the wood thoroughly saturated. Each battery was armed with from eight to twenty heavy brass cannon of new manufacture, with a reserve, and the crews varied in number from 760 to 250. Total, 138 guns and 5,190 men. One large sail propelled each ship. Montero, in his History pays a well-merited compliment to the attitude of General Eliott at this supreme moment. "General Eliott, who beheld the rapid advance of the trenches, the increase of the besieging army commanded by a Chief of great renown, and above all threatened at any moment to be made the target for these machines, the power of which was exaggerated and overwhelmed the imagination with gloomy colours, without hope of speedy succour, and sur- rounded on all sides by enemies, nevertheless remained firm and imperturbable, displaying an activity without limits in renewing his defences and in maintaining the spirit of the Garrison in order to resist to the last extremity." Not a point in the City or on the Rock was left undefended; covered ways were constructed as a means of communication between the batteries-in these the guns were renewed and added to and all damage was repaired by the Garrison who ceaselessly laboured at this most arduous work. The land batteries amounted to 246 guns and mortars, protected by an army of 40,000 men, under the Duc de Crillon; and on the 9th of April, 1782, Gib- raltar was again bombarded by sea and land, commenced by a general discharge of 170 guns from the land batteries. It continued on the 10th, 11th and 12th, 4,000 rounds being fired in each 24 hours. On the 12th the combined fleets of France and Spain arrived in the Bay, consisting of 7 three-deckers, 31 two- deckers, 3 frigates and a number of Xebeques, Bomb Vessels, &c., raising the enemy's naval force to 47 sail of the line, 10 battering ships carrying 212 guns, besides a large number of frigates, xebeques, bomb ketches, gun and mortar boats. On the 13th the whole fleet ranged up to within 900 and 1,200 yards of the sea face in two lines from the King's Bastion northward, and opened fire continuing for eight hours. Upwards of 500 guns were playing at the same time-186 from the land batteries and 142 from the ships of war, besides the battering ships. The Garrison could only bring 96 guns into action, but red hot shot was used by them, upwards of 8,300 rounds and 716 barrels of powder being expended. The effect of the red hot shot exceeded the most sanguine expectations both against the land batteries and the floating batteries. The enemy was entirely defeated and a great number of his ships and all the floating batteries 19 were burnt. Three hundred and fifty-seven prisoners were saved by Captain Curtis, R.N., from the burning ships. But the loss of the enemy was very great; over 2,000 altogether, 1,473 being either killed, wounded or missing from the floating batteries alone; while the loss of the Garrison was only one officer and fifteen men killed, and five officers and sixty-three men wounded. In Spain the news of the failure of the attack was received with consternation and despair, and the countless thousands of spectators, who covered the enemy's camp and the surrounding hills, and who had hurried from all parts of Spain to witness the fall of Gibraltar, returned to their homes disappointed and chagrined. Two French Princes, the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles X., brother to the King of France, and the Duc de Bourbon, besides the Prince of Nassau, were in the Spanish Camp at this time. The bombardment was continued till the end of the month, 1,200 rounds being fired on an average in twenty-four hours. On the 10th October Lord Howe's Fleet of thirty-four sail of the line with six frigates and 31 transports arrived in the Straits, but adverse winds prevented any but a few transports and the "Panther" frigate from reaching the Rock and the rest, being driven by the current, assembled off Marbella. The combined fleets of France and Spain, eighty sail of the line in all, left the Bay to the Eastward in pursuit, but by an able manœuvre Lord Howe avoided battle, slipped round them and anchored off Tetuan, from whence he sent the "Latona" with twelve transports and afterwards the "Buffalo" with the rest of them, which safely reached Gibraltar with their supplies and a reinforcement of 1,600 men, afterwards sailing to the West on his homeward voyage, still pursued by the allied fleets to which he gave battle off Cadiz, afterwards proceeding on his way. The following couplet was current in Spain on this affair:- Entre OO. EE. NN. y SS. Se escaparon los Ingleses. Meanwhile negotiations for peace were proceeding and France offered to give up Martinique and Guadaloupe to England, receiving San Domingo from Spain if Gibraltar were restored to the latter. This proposal was entertained by the Ministry but not by Parliament who saw the unconquerable and absolute re- pugnance of the nation to restore the fortress. At the end of October the camp of the enemy begun to break up, and the shot fired into the Garrison only averaged 250 rounds daily, which gradually decreased, and on the 20th January preliminaries of peace were signed in which Minorca was ceded to Spain in place of Gibraltar, it having been taken by Spain during the siege. 20 The Garrison lost killed and dead of wounds..... 333 Died of sickness, exclusive of those who died of scurvy in 1779 and 1780 536 Discharged, from incurable complaints Discharged, from wounds. Deserted Total…….. 181 138 43 1,231 The Spanish loss is stated by them at 6,000 men, but it must have been larger. The English expended 205,328 rounds and 8,000 barrels of powder, and had fifty-three pieces of ordnance damaged or destroyed; the besieging force, 258,387 rounds of shot and shell. (C 66 This siege cost the Spaniards twelve millions of dollars. On the termination of the siege reciprocal visits were paid to the Spanish works and Gibraltar by General Eliott and the Duc de Crillon, when the Governor ex- amined with particular interest the cave at the Devil's Tower where the enemy had been working to form a mine to blow up the north part of the Rock. The Duke asked the Governor what he thought of the mine, and General Eliott was about to find an answer, but the Duke perceiving his idea by the smile on his countenance prevented him by saying, "Is it not true, General, that that mine was a farce? But in war, as in everything else, we must have amusement, and on that account it was I ordered that Gallery to be made merely to amuse my "soldiers." On the Duke's exploring the Gallery above Farringdon's Battery, which was then about 500 or 600 feet in extent, he turned to his suite and ex- claimed, “These works are worthy of the Romans." On the visit of the Duc de Crillon to the fortress the officers of the Garrison were introduced to him at the Convent, and on the officers of the Artillery being mentioned he said to them, “Gentlemen! I would rather see you here as friends, than on your batteries as enemies, where," he added, you never spared me.' For his services during this remarkable defence General Eliott was rewarded with a pension of £1,500 à year, the Order of the Bath and the thanks of Parliament. The investiture took place on the King's Bastion, where the Governor had stood on the day of the final bombardment. It was not till four years after that tardy justice was due to this great soldier and he was raised to the peerage. The following words were addressed by the Governor to the troops of the Garrison when communicating to them the thanks of their King and country for their defence of Gibraltar :-" And forgive "me, faithful comrades, if I humbly crave your acceptance of my grateful acknow- ledgments. I only presume to ask this favour as having been a constant wit- ness of your cheerful submission to the greatest hardships, your matchless spirit "and exertions, and on all occasions your heroic contempt of every danger. (6 6 ( (C رو The progress of the siege had naturally been followed with the deepest anxiety 21 in England, where the services of the brave defenders were fully recognised. In July, 1782, Lord Melbourne wrote to the Governor, "I am also honoured with "H. M. commands to assure you in the strongest terms that no encouragement *shall be wanting to the brave officers and soldiers under your command. His Royal approbation of the past will no doubt be a powerful incentive to further "exertions. And I have the King's authority to assure you that every distin- guished mark of emulation and gallantry which shall be performed in the course "of the siege by any, even of the lowest rank, will meet with ample reward from "his generous protection and favour." (8 In 1830 the first Charter of Justice was given to the City. A magistracy was established, and the advantage of civil liberty accorded to the inhabitants. Nor have its military interests been neglected; the fortifications, always strong, have been vastly extended and improved, the heaviest ordnance has replaced the lighter guns of former days, and the number has been vastly increased, 440 guns being now in position, while during the great siege the number was about 120 only; also immense stores of supplies and ammunition are constantly maintained in the greatest efficiency. The number of guns will ultimately be reduced by nearly 100, as the smaller artillery is replaced by more powerful weapons. The work of improvement and addition is ever going on military and civilian labourers are employed every day in building new magazines and new batteries, re-arming old ones, and in every way adding to the efficiency and strength of this solitary and war-worn fortress. Ayala says that "the pertinacity with which it is attempted to be rendered impregnable evinces as well the mistrust of the pre- sent possessors as the injustice of still retaining it." Gibraltar may be described as a bold headland promontory jutting insularly into the sea at the entrance of the Mediterranean, and is separated by a ridge from North to South dividing it into two unequal parts. It is a peninsula of oblong form, running nearly due north and south; it is about three miles in length, greatest breadth three-quarters of a mile, and circumference about seven miles. The acreage of Gibraltar, including the North Front, is 1,266 acres, of which over twenty-one acres only (public property) are reserved as garden ground. There are, however, other spots cultivated in private properties and Government quarters. The greater part of the Rock is incapable of cultivation. 22 On the north it is connected with the main land by a low sandy isthmus, 1,500 yards in length (from the Bayside Gate) and from 950 to 1,800 yards in breadth in different parts. On the western side, where the town is built, the slope is gradual in most parts; but the eastern, which faces the Mediterranean, is an inaccessible cliff, bare of vegetation, and forming a series of rugged precipices, broken only in one spot by an immense bank of sand 450 feet in height, the accumulation of many ages, which lies heaped up under the Signal Station-hill. At the northern face the mountain rises, a perpendicular and unbroken cliff, to a height of nearly 1,400 feet, terminating in a narrow plateau crowned with a powerful battery. The guns in this battery, even at this height, were frequently dismounted during the siege. At its extreme height the Rock is marked by three points, viz., at the north, the Rock Gun, or Wolf's Crag, 1,337 feet; in the centre, the Upper Signal Sta- tion, 1,294 feet high; and at the south, Sugar Loaf Hill or O'Hara's Tower, 1,361 feet high; but the greatest height is at a point between the Signal Station and O'Hara's Tower, 1,396 feet. This tower was built by General O'Hara to watch the movements of the Spanish fleet at Cadiz; it was soon afterwards struck by lightning, which completed its inutility. The greatest heights in the neigh- bourhood are Ape's Hill, 2,808 feet; Queen of Spain's Chair, 971 feet. The Rock is composed of compact limestone or grey dense marble, varied by beds of red sandstone and fissures of osseous brecchia, which last resembles in character that found in the limestone rocks of Antibes, Nice, Pisa, and Dalmatia, and contains the bones of various animals, among which Cuvier enumerates the fossil elephant, ox, deer, cave-bear, sheep, horse, ass, snakes, and many others, both of existing and extinct species. Though Gibraltar has traditionally held the title of a barren rock, its floral and vegetable kingdom is sufficiently rich and varied to occupy the attention of bota- nists. The clematis, geranium, aloe and rose run wild, and the myrtle, locust tree, the wide-spreading bella sombra, a great variety of cactus, the vine, fig-trees, olive, almond, orange, and lemon are present in various localities. · There are 456 species of flowering plants and ferns indigenous to the Rock, and forty-four which are introduced; some of them are very curious and beautiful. The town or city consists of two distinct portions, known as North and South, the former being by far the most important, in which is the commercial portion, which is comprised mainly in two parallel streets, Waterport-street and Irish- town, and the lanes connecting them; the abrupt slopes at the back of the town being thickly covered with houses built tier above tier to a height of 250 feet bove the sea; and at the northern extremity of this district is the Moorish Castle 23 with its ancient walls, bearing a silent witness in its battered masonry to the assaults of time and of many famous sieges. It was completed by the Moors in 742 A.D. The South-town is formed by a small collection of houses which stand on the slope of the hill below O'Hara's Tower, and includes Rosia and the New Mole- parade. This suburb is divided from the city by the Alameda-parade and public gardens. The only houses on the East side of the Rock, if we except the Cottage of H. E. the Governor at Europa, are those of the village of Catalan Bay, in which the inhabitants are chiefly fishermen and of Genoese origin. 24 : CLIMATE OF GIBRALTAR. Temperature. Ample testimony is borne by the ancients to the beauty of the climate: Lucan, the poet, speaks of the serenity and perpetual clearness of the sky about Gibraltar, and Pliny, though having given, with laudable partiality, the preference to his native Italy, renders justice to the Southern coast of Spain, and affirms that only can be compared with it. The general character of the climate is very agreeable from November to May, but the remaining five months are hot, and the East wind or Levanter prevails. The mean temperature, taken from an average of twenty-two years, is 62° 13', the maximum heat being in July, 92° 20', and the minimum in February, 32° 6'. The heat in summer is, however, even more oppressive than the thermometer would indicate, owing principally to the want of a free circulation of air, which is prevented by the height and shape of the rock, most of the winds blowing only in certain quarters of the rock, but as a general rule the summer nights are much cooler and not often oppressive, except when a severe black Levanter wind is blowing. The prevailing winds are East and West, or variations of these quarters. When a North wind blows in the winter, which is rather uncommon, it is oftentimes bitterly cold, from passing over the snows of the Sierra Nevada on its route, but no great extreme cold is ever known. The Easterly winds are most prevalent in the summer months, and the Westerly in the winter. The Levanter is most unwholesome; it is usually accompanied by a dense mass of dark cloud which hangs over the rock and dissolves in a clammy and unpleasant moisture. Its presence is quickly recognized by dull pains in the bones, the tongue is parched, and an oppressive languor paralyzes both mind and body. When, after a depres- sing Levanter, the wind suddenly changes, the sensation is one of the greatest relief. What may be called the "manufacture" of the Levanter when an East wind is blowing is very curious to witness. It is best seen from the road in front of the Governor's Cottage, Europa, when, on looking towards the peak of O'Hara's Tower, the beautiful blue sky of the Mediterranean is seen clear and cloudless, but within a short distance of the highest part of the rock clouds are gathering and a black vapour pouring over the summit like smoke from a factory chimney, spreading an inky pall over the town and far over the Bay towards the opposite coasts of Spain. Opinions differ as to whether the Easterly blasts are colder than the Rock, or vicè versá; but that the heavy vapour of the Levanter is due to the 25 condensation of the air on the Rock there can be no doubt. The effect of the East wind on the Bay is extremely curious, where sharp and intermittent gusts prevail by reason of the hill running North and South, so that the flat back receives the Levant winds which reverberate, flying round each end of the Rock with great impetuosity, while the third column of the air mounts over the Rock, and which is by a fourth higher free wind forced down, and meets with the two winds that whirl round the mountain at an equal distance from the ends of the Rock; these form vortices, which are continued in numberless eddies quite to the front of the Bay, so that vessels riding abreast of the town have smart gusts of wind at all points of the compass in the space of half an hour. (This is a description by an old writer). In winter the cold is never excessive, snow falls very seldom, but hail often rattles down, being driven by gusts of wind; ice is a rarity, yet upon the summit of the Rock and on the neutral ground, very early in the morning, it has been as thick as half-a-crown. The Levanter wind when it blows in the winter is often most tempestuous and rages violently for several days, with heavy and copious rains, hence the Portuguese saying- Rain with a Levanter, Makes the stones canter. In the yellow fever years (1813, 1814) the East wind prevailed for seven months out of the twelve. Rainfall and Water Supply. The rainy months are from September to May, and the average fall taken for twenty years is 34.53 inches, but this is subject to very great variations, as in 1841-42 only fifteen inches fell, while in 1855-56 the quantity registered was nearly eighty inches. In 1766, on the last day in January, occurred one of these deluges caused by a tremendous fall of rain, to which places in southern latitudes are often exposed. The torrent from the mountain was so impetuous, carrying with it stones of great size with sand and earth, that it filled up the lower parts of the houses, blocked the streets and prevented the opening of the Sally Ports. More than 50 persons are said to have perished on this occasion. This inundation was deemed an extra- ordinary occurrence, for, as remarked by Portillo, it is an extraordinary quality of this Rock that although its side is sloping and much extended the water often does not reach the town. It appears that the mountain is full of caverns into which the water runs, and is conducted by unknown channels to the sea or to interior deposits not reaching the town nor even the gardens at the foot of the mountain. 26 In 1834 a similar occurrence took place when eleven lives were lost, and on the night of 23d November, 1875, there was also a great flood, and two persons lost their lives, being buried by the fall of a shed in the garden of the Convent, Europa Road. During the dry months of the year the rock is brown, parched, and burnt up, and all vegetation perishes, but with the first showers all this is changed, and the appearance of the rock alters in a few days as if by magic. The grass springs up, the shrubs and trees begin to bud, and the eye, wearied by the heat and dust of summer, is refreshed by the beautiful bright green of the early vegetation ; nowhere is this better seen than on the North Front, where a day or two's rain covers the sandy waste with a beautiful green carpet. The supply of water was, until 1868, entirely dependent on the rainfall; but since the discovery of fresh water on the North Front, and the supply of better tank accommodation, this want is no longer felt, and the benefit is everywhere manifest by the better order of the sewers, drains, &c., which must result in the increased healthiness of the place. Since the constitution in 1865 of a body of Sanitary Commissioners, composed of gentlemen of the town, who give their services gratuitously, assisted by a skilled engineer, the condition of the drainage, cleansing, water supply, paving and lighting has been very materially improved, as also the town itself by constant alterations in the narrow streets, courts, ramps, &c., and by the planting of a con- siderable number of trees which give a grateful shade in the streets from the summer sun. The water from the wells at the North Front and at Southport (Dixon's Well) is pumped into the town into enormous tanks below the Moorish Castle, and also into the Naval tank on the Europa Road, a colossal work with retaining walls of immense thickness. From this immense reservoir a small engine forces the water into two smaller tanks, one on the Engineer Road, the other above Windmill Hill; and from these sources Windmill Hill, Europa, Buena Vista, &c., are supplied. The actual source of the water found at the North Front is a subject of controversy, but it is generally believed to be derived from two sources, the drainage of the opposite Spanish hills, Sierra de Carbonera, and the filtration of surface water through the large area of sand of the North Front. The depth of the clay which retains it must be extremely close to the sea level, as towards the end of the summer the water pumped up has a mixture of sea water which renders it hardly potable. The fact of potable water being present on the North Front is mentioned by Ayala in 1782, who writes: "Wherever in the sand on the Isthmus a well is dug there is found, on a level "with the sea or much higher, excellent good sweet water, pure and light, fit for "drinking and all purposes of cookery." It may be added that constant experiments have been carried out in many parts. 27 of the Rock for the discovery of the best water, and large condensing machinery was erected in 1884 in the Southport ditch, near Ragged Staff, capable of supply- ing a very large quantity of the purest water possible. Mortality. This has hitherto been far above a healthy average, although it seems to be de- pendent neither on the heat nor the rainfall; for some of the most healthy seasons have occurred when the thermometer has been the highest, while in the two years before mentioned, when the greatest extremes of rainfall occurred, no visible effect was produced on the mortality. The rate of mortality has, however, been steadily decreasing in the last few years, as better Sanitary measures are enforced. In 1882 it was 32 per mil.; in 1883, 24; and in 1884 it was reduced to 19. The prevailing diseases are pneumonia, fever, and consumption. The mortality among children is very remarkable, and can only be accounted for by the overcrowding of the poorer houses, neglect of the parents, and insuffi- ciency of proper food. During the virulent fever which visited the Rock in 1804, 5,733 persons died out of a population of 15,000 in a few weeks. The fever again visited the Rock at the end of 1813, when the gates were closed and all business suspended; and again in the following year. Sufficient is known of the symptoms and character of this disease to leave no doubt of its having been the yellow fever of the West Indies. It reappeared again in 1828 when it caused 1,677 deaths, after which the frequent and fatal recurrence of this fever in a climate not remarkably unhealthy attracted the attention of the authorities and a commission of enquiry was established to determine whether the disease was imported or had its origin in local causes. The President and members dis- agreed and no conclusion was arrived at. There is no doubt however that the fever originated in Gibraltar, and that there existed at the time exciting causes within the city numerous enough and of a character to originate malignant fevers. The ventilation of the town was essentially bad, the drains were ill constructed and in no instance trapped, and almost every house had a gaping cesspool beneath it. During the summer masses of accumulated filth were pent up in the sewers, and horribly offensive odours rose from the open gratings. Added to this there was never any regular and sufficient supply of water. Investigations made in 1828 proved that the fever first broke out in a district notoriously filthy. In further proof of the pestilential state of the atmosphere during these epidemics it is mentioned by an eminent physician that a great mortality prevailed at the 1 + 28 same time among animals. In 1865 the Rock was visited by cholera, which swept off more than 500 victims in three months. Since then ample Sanitary precautions have been taken and are carefully carried out by the Sanitary Commissioners. These arrangements, now so complete, for the benefit of the public health form a striking contrast to the way in which these all important matters were dealt with in days gone by, of which the following General Order of 1766 is an amusing instance, although at the present day such an indifferent way of dealing with a great source of public danger would not fail to cause the greatest alarm :-"The General desirous of removing the remaining part of the rubbish in the town, that a free passage may be given for the deluge which may be expected from the usual rains at this time of the year, proposes to employ 100 able volunteers from the several Regiments for that purpose, who are to be free from all other duty during the time they are employed. The General's intention is to contract with these men for the removal of this rubbish to such place as shall be assigned them, for a limited time, for a sum of money to be equally divided amongst them as they are to share equally amongst them as soon as the task is completed, and to see that his neighbour take his share of the work equally with him that the contract may not be broke and the gain lost owing to the negligence or idleness of two or three careless fellows. The General will order the volunteers for this work to be assembled; the task proposed to be done and the sum proposed to be given shall be clearly told them, and they shall be left at full liberty to undertake or refuse the proposal." The general health of the troops is excellent, and there is no place in the world where English soldiers are quartered where a young regiment pulls itself together and is improved so readily. The men are constantly employed, and the sentry work at night is performed in a most clement climate. Rock fever is occasionally prevalent among them, and curiously enough, is more common in the regiments which are quartered in the coolest situations, Europa and Windmill Hill; but the cause is not far to seek the steep hilly road from the town to these places is the cause of the men getting overheated, when hurrying to save the roll call, and the cool air of their destinations, with perhaps their coats thrown open to enjoy it, produces a chill, and that, unless taken in hand at once, is a certain pre- lude to Rock Fever. : Mem.—Avoid sitting in a draught when heated. POPULATION. The population at the end of 1881 was 23,991, including the military; the civil population of 18,381 divided as follows:-Protestants, 1,439; Roman Catholics, 15,275; Hebrews, 1,591; Mahommedans, 59; others, 17. The history of the composition and numbers of the population of Gibraltar 29 merits a somewhat detailed notice. Ayala says that in 1724 the civil population amounted to only 3,000, of which 500 were English, 1,000 Jews, and a large number of Genoese. These persons replaced the inhabitants who had left Gib- raltar on its capture. In 1787 the population amounted to 3,386, of whom 2,100 were Roman Catholics. A census, taken in 1791 when the population was 2,890, contains a declaration that no person can possess a right to enter and re- side in Gibraltar even although a natural born subject of the Crown, without permission of the Governor of the Fortress, and no general right of way to this end has ever been granted. The first Garrison Orders in existence are dated 1720, and the power of the Governor to expel all persons he did not deem desirable was always recognized and exercised, and the Regulations constantly made with reference to the admis- sion and residence of Aliens were based :- 1. On the absence of all right to a residence. 2. The Military expediency to exclude all foreigners. 3. To prevent overcrowding. A census was constantly taken to check the numbers of the population, and in 1812 Military Police were first established, their most important duty being to control the admission of aliens and to check overcrowding which might prove dangerous to the health of the Fortress. These fears had been too well founded, as the Epidemic fever of 1810 carried off more than a tenth of the population, the epidemic being expressly stated to be due to an influx of strangers and foreigners of all nations. This fever appeared again in 1813 and 1814, and in the three years 14,900 people were attacked and 7,070 died. In 1814 the population was 9,633; thus it had more than trebled in 23 years. In the following years continual Proclamations were published to control the admission of aliens and to prevent overcrowding but no actual principle was laid down. In 1822 Lord Chatham, in order to check births of aliens in the Garrison re- fused licenses to marry to any alien males except they left the Garrison. In 1828 the overcrowded town was again devastated by a fearful epidemic, and in the following year it was found that nearly 12,500 people were in Gibraltar on permit. The evil had thus so gained ground that a radical reform of the Permit system was carrried out by the Secretary of State in the following year, and the indis- criminate grant of Permits was entirely forbidden. A Magistrate was appointed to administer fixed rules or principles to regulate the admission, &c., of Aliens 30 and on a census being taken it was found that the native Christian population of Alien origin had more than quadrupled in 16 years, there being a total of 17,000, including 7,000 foreigners. This led to fresh instructions for the revision of all existing Permits and these continued in force until the passing of the present Aliens Order in Council in 1873, before. which, in 1865, the cholera having visited Gibraltar with serious results the complaints of overcrowding were per- sistent and general. To show the grave necessity for the most extreme supervision it may be men- tioned that in 1814 the number of houses was 1,664, the population being 9,633, whilst in 1871, when the population was nearly doubled, the number of houses had diminished by one third. The principles therefore which have governed all enactments in this matter may be shortly stated as follows:- 1. That in this Fortress, containing an exceedingly limited habitable area, no right to residence can be recognized. 2. Therefore no alien can be admitted except to supply the wants of the Gar- rison. 3. Therefore no alien can have any ground of complaint if excluded. 4. That in view of the overcrowded state of Gibraltar and of the limited extent of house accommodation it is absolutely essential that every possible regulation should be made to prevent an increase to the fixed popula- tion by the occurrence of births of children of alien fathers. It is only by such measures, harsh though they may prove occasionally to be, that the population of Gibraltar can be kept within reasonable limits consistent with safety to health. GEOLOGY, BOTANY, AND NATURAL HISTORY. THE Rock is composed of compact limestone or dense grey marble, varied by beds of red sandstone and fissures of osseous breccia. At the base of the pre- cipice which runs about halfway up the mountain on the western side, lies a sloping plain of stratified silicious sand on which the lower part of the town is built. It is called the Red Sands. There is no doubt that Gibraltar has undergone many movements of upheaval and depression, accompanied by violent ruptures of strata, land slips and con- tinual sea action. The beds of limestone must have been formed at the bottom of the sea during the secondary period, as is shown by the marine remains con- 31 tained in them, in a position nearly horizontal; and they were tilted up by some force acting from below, most probably volcanie. This was the first period in the history of the Rock, and in the second fresh beds were deposited round its base, which were again tilted up 19 degrees more than they were at first by a second upheaval. This movement, however, was only partial, and confined to the south- ern portion, and the Rock was broken across-the line of fracture being plainly marked by the gap and ravines between Middle Hill and Rock Gun height. During this epoch the Catalan Bay sands were formed: the wasting action of the sea had formed a cliff and terrace, and on this beds upon beds of sand were deposited, sloping outward, and in one of the numerous changes of level to which the Rock was subjected the whole of these sands were lifted up. They slope against the eastern face at an angle of 80 degrees. During the great earth- quake which destroyed Lisbon, these sands sunk many feet and large pieces of the Rock rolled into the sea. A third upheaval, still further south of Middle Hill, again tilted the beds in that part 19 degrees. The line of division is marked by an indentation to the south of Signal Station Hill. These successive and violent alterations have been instrumental in giving so irregular an outline to Gibraltar, the grand sentinel watch tower of the Mediter- ranean. Hence the Spanish names for it "El Cuerpo " (The Corpse) and "The Crouching Lion," "A guisa de Leon cuando se posa." and these appearances can be easily traced, the former looking South, the latter North. The surface of Europa Point is almost entirely composed of water-worn rock; and at the back, 270 feet above the sea level, is an oyster-bed. The general ap- pearance of the Rock indicates that the whole of it has been submerged subse- quently to the last of the disturbances. No general change of level has taken place probably during the human period, but the elevation must have been instantaneous, as fossil shell-fish are found with both valves adhering, showing the animals must have been alive at the time. The remarkable osseous breccia is found in different parts of the Rock,-in fissures and open caverns. The concretions are calcareous, and inclose the bones of different animals, many of which are of extinct kinds.* The flora and vegetable kingdom of Gibraltar are rich and varied; there are 456 species of flowering plants and ferns indigenous, and 44 which are cultivated and introduced. These are classed as follows:- * Vide "Geology of Gibraltar," by James Smith, Esq., F.G.S., 1844. 32 40 species generally distributed throughout Europe. 58 natives of South Africa. 63 common to Europe and Africa. 147 common to South Europa and Africa. 13 confined to Spain and Barbary. 12 confined to Europe and Asia Minor. One plant only is peculiar to Gibraltar, viz., Iberis Gibralterica. There are few animals on the Rock; of these the rabbits are the most plenti- ful, but there are also foxes and badgers; reptiles are numerous, chiefly lizards, centipedes and snakes, the latter not poisonous. In ancient times wild boar and wolves were known on the Rock. The eagle still builds his nest in the crags near the Signal Station, and many varieties of hawks are common. Wild pigeons breed in great numbers in the caves on the eastern face of the Rock, and there are a few patridges to be seen, most commonly on and about Europa Flats. The monkeys, always associated with the Rock of Gibraltar, are now but few -about twenty in number. They are of the Barbary ape species, and it has long been a matter of discussion how they were transported. The wild and impossible theory of a communication under the sea between Gibraltar and the Barbary coast has been started by some ingenious people, and certain it is that the moun- tain on the other side has been Ape's Hill from immemorial time; but the simple fact seems to be that they were brought over from the opposite coast at different times and increased in numbers, as formerly they were seen in troops gambolling along the precipices. An old paper in the British Museum refers to a great number of those apes being sent into the garrison in 1740, and a poll-tax to which they were subjected. The presence of these monkeys adds another to the many speculations which may be indulged in with regard to the formation of the Rock and its present position. There seems to be no doubt but that in past ages the two continents. of Europe and Asia were connected at their Western extremity. The geological formations of Gibraltar and the opposite coast are identical, limestone in both cases, the neighbouring hills of Spain being of sandstone; monkeys are habitants of Africa, but not of Spain; and as another curious fact the Barbary partridge is found on the Rock but not in Spain, while the red leg partridge so common in Spain is found neither on the Rock or on the Barbary coast. The present family may often be seen on the Western side of the Rock, par- ticularly when the Levant wind is blowing; they rob the gardens when they can, but principally live on the sweet roots of the palmetto. When the water in the catch-pits in different parts of the Rock is exhausted by the summer heats they 33 become very bold in their quest for it, the Signal Station being a safe find as the men provide a supply for them. They also often visit the back of the Governor's Cottage at Europa (but only during a West wind) for the sake of the grape vine at the entrance and the water tank. The men at the Signal Station take notice of their movements, and any youth- ful addition to the family is duly announced in the local paper. They are never molested, although they are very troublesome to the owners of garden ground where they commit extensive depredations, for the policy of England in all her colonies is in their case illustrated to the letter; as Ford says in his " Handbook to Spain, "We do not seek to denationalize the aborigines, whether men or monkeys." " TRADE OF GIBRALTAR. The really palmy days for the trade of Gibraltar, we fear, are gone for ever; for although the commercial transactions are still large and important, they have greatly fallen since the days before the introduction of steam, and the rise was no less sudden than has been the decline. When tranquillity was restored to the Rock after the great siege the town presented a very deplorable aspect; the prin- cipal inhabitants had long since fled, and landed property was of trifling value, but the real owners, encouraged by the Governor, set earnestly at work to rebuild, which gave an impetus to labour, and tranquillity brought with it naturally a revival of commerce. The war commenced in 1793 was highly beneficial to Gib- raltar ; for having a Vice-Admiralty Court the numerous captures made by our cruisers in the Mediterranean and off the coasts were daily brought in, condemned, and both vessels and cargoes sold at public auction. Merchandize of great value was thus disposed of, and at little cost. Moreover a system of privateering was established, whence proceeded transactions highly profitable to those engaged. Money and supplies were also forwarded to the army of the Duke of Wellington in the Peninsular and large profits were made. In 1808 the Revolution in Spain opened to Gibraltar the treasures long heaped up and lying dormant in that extensive country, and being a free port full advantage could be taken of the chance. The total exclusion, at one period, of the British Flag from all Conti- nental ports from the Baltic to the Adriatic, made Gibraltar a grand emporium where apparently was conducted the business of all European nations. Wealth consequently flowed in fast, the value of landed property increased, and the fortunate landholder found himself suddenly wealthy and independent. The titles to lands in Gibraltar were only settled after 1821 during the Government of Lord Chatham, the Commission having been appointed in 1817, for, in consequence of 5 34 the little attention the matter had received from former Governors and the absence of any establishment for carrying on the settlement made under General Bland in 1749, the greatest irregularities had occurred, and most of the titles by which lands and houses were held were either liable to forfeiture or tainted with defects. A revisal was therefore made of the whole and titles were settled on a permanent basis, the former disabilities with respect to Jews and Catholics being altogether removed. In 1822 and 1824 the value of the imports of cotton and woollen manufactures alone amounted to a million and a quarter of money, but from that year the trade declined. The number of shipping has enormously increased, but this is due to the extension of mercantile transactions all through the Mediter- ranean, for formerly in the days of sailing vessels Gibraltar formed the great entrepôt for goods which were intended for distribution not only along the neigh- bouring coasts but to the remotest corners of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea. Now steam and ships of larger tonnage carry cargoes direct to the port of destination without transhipment. Gibraltar, therefore, as a station of commercial importance has declined, but as a coaling station and a port for the protection and convenience of the mercantile marine trading with the Mediterranean, Spain and Morocco, it is more than ever of importance. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. Gibraltar possesses but few public buildings to interest a visitor. The streets are inconveniently narrow, although great improvements have been effected in this matter of late years, and they are still going on, under the careful administration of the Sanitary Commissioners. The Assembly Rooms were erected in 1884-85 by a Company formed in Gibraltar for the purpose, on a site at the north end of the Alameda, granted for the purpose by the War Office on the representations of the Governor, Sir J. M. Adye, who evinced his interest in the provision of a building of this kind by the strong recommendations he made to the Government in favour of the grant. It contains a noble Ball-room, with the necessary retiring rooms; a moveable stage for theatrical performances, concerts, &c.; a restaurant, with the necessary offices, kitchens, &c.; and a rain- water tank of 40,000 gallons. The East wing contains the Lodge Rooms, &c., of the Freemasons of Gibraltar, by whom the enterprise was inaugurated. 35 : CHURCHES, CHAPELS, SYNAGOGUES, &c. Roman Catholic. CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. MARY THE CROWNED appears to have been originally a Moorish Mosque, and by no means an insignifi- cant one, as may be seen by the marble in the buildings and cloisters, and origin- ally, in the Court of Orange Trees, which used to exist before a great part was taken for widening the road; of this Court and the well for watering the trees the recollection alone remains. On the sides are chapels dedicated to illustrious founders. The church was re-modelled and re-built by Ferdinand and Isabella when Gibraltar was annexed to the Crown, when the north side was extended and the Royal Arms engraved thereon: the stone may still be seen on the wall in the inner court. They directed also a large and elevated tower to be constructed wherein were to be placed the bells and clock, but only the principal chapel was completed, for the whole funds were expended in decorating the altar and in or- naments. In 1704 the Church was saved from pillage and zealously defended by the Curate, Padre Juan Romero, a man of sound judgment and true piety who re- mained at Gibraltar when the rest of the inhabitants left rather than submit to foreign dominion; among them many noble families, the Villegas, the Bohorques, the Guzmans, the Benitez, and that of Solis, Lord of "Las Navas." Padre Juan Romero was held in great estimation, his Church was respected and he himself was provided with rations for his maintenance. On the return of peace and opening up of land communications he occupied himself in placing in security the effects of the Church by distributing them as opportunities occurred among persons returning to Spain to be delivered to the clergy of the neighbouring churches. He died in 1723, when other Curates continued the same practice. In this way were conveyed out of the Garrison the Images of the "Virgen de los Dolores," of "Los Remedios," of the "Socorro," the "Christo de la Espi- racion," the "Magdalena," and many others. These were sent out in various ingenious ways, some wrapped in clothes, and some in provision baskets, and a figure of San Josef, too large to be sent in this way, was covered with a cloak and surmounted with a cap, was placed on a horse, supported behind by a rider and was thus borne out of the Garrison in the midst of a company of horsemen. In documents addressed to his Bishop the Curate Romero fully justifies himself from any interested or sordid motives for remaining in Gibraltar, showing that but for his presence the Holy Church of St. Mary would have shared the fate of all the others, and declares that if instead of being captured by the English it had been taken by the Turks or Moors or by the Prince of Darkness himself he would have acted in precisely the same way. 30 In former times, in Gibraltar, were a great number of churches and holy sanc- tuaries, besides four monasteries-three of Friars and one of the Franciscan Nuns of Santa Clara. The religious houses, &c., in 1704, besides the Cathedral Church, were Convent of San Francisco (1480), of la Merced (1581), of San Juan de Dios, Convent of Santa Clara (1587), Churches of Virgen de la Europa, San Juan de Lateran, Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza, San Sebastian, in the Barsina, Virgen del Rosario (Ragged Staff), San Juan de Verde, belonging to the Knights of Malta, Hermitage of los Remedios (Rosia), and a Calvary with many crosses at the Sandpits. The cloisters, formerly of the Convent of Mercedes for the Redemption of Captives, founded in 1581, still remain at Cloister Ramp. CHURCH OF THE SACRED HEART OF JESUS, Castle Road. This new and handsome though unfinished church and the schools adjoining were erected mainly through the constant exertions and energy of the late Vicar Apostolic of Gibraltar, the Right Reverend Dr. Scandella, Bishop of Antinöe, who died in the summer of 1880, and was interred in the church, ST. JOSEPH'S CHURCH, Roger's Road, South. Protestant, CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY. A plain stone building, but commodious, and with pleasing Arabesque orna- mentation in the interior. The doors and windows are of the Moorish horse-shoe shape. It was built during the Governorship of Lord Chatham, who assumed office in 1821; and the Chancel, as at present arranged, was altered in 1880, The fine Organ, the cost of which was defrayed by private subscriptions, was erected at the same time, KING'S CHAPEL. This is part of the chapel of the old Convent, to which it is attached: some of the pillars of the West end and a doorway may still be seen in the coach-houses. It is now used as a Garrison Chapel. The chancel was restored in 1877, chiefly through the exertions of Mrs, Somerset, wife of Lieut.-General E. A. Somerset, C.B., who was in command of the Infantry Brigade from 1873 to 1878, during which time he was Acting Governor for more than two years. The stained glass window was then put in, the cost being raised by private subscriptions, and the beautiful altar cloth is the work of Mrs, Somerset and family, Ayala says, "the 37 i congregation are summoned to this Church by beat of drum, the Governor not "sanctioning the use of bells which disturb and incommode him." SOUTH BARRACK CHAPEL. A Chapel School attached to the South Barracks. ST. ANDREW'S PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, Governor's Parade. WESLEYAN CHURCH. Prince Edward's Road. Jewish Synagogues. One of the principal is on the Line Wall, at the back of Bomb House Lane, and may be known by a splendid date Palm tree in the Court Yard, the waving branches of which are seen over the entrance gate. There are others in the town. The Civil Hospital occupies the site of the hospital of San Juan de Dios, which existed when the Rock was in the hands of the Spaniards. It is in three divisions-Church of England, Roman Catholic, and Hebrew-each under the management of a com- mittee of gentlemen of its persuasion with a Deputy Governor of the Hospital at the head of each. It was inaugurated by General Don in 1815; the buildings, then called the Blue Barracks, previously in a state of ruin, having been fitted up at the expense of the Government, were given up to be used as a Civil Hospital, and in June, 1880, the Foundation Stone of new buildings for its enlargement was laid with great ceremony by General Lord Napier of Magdàla, who, since his first arrival at Gibraltar, as Governor, in 1876, had taken the greatest interest in the well being and improvement of the usefulness of the Institution. The build- ing as now completed is very handsome and commodious, being fitted with every convenience and facility as a medical school. The number of beds is 120. Civil Prison. Is contained within the old walls of the Moorish Castle, and although small is very conveniently arranged and is amply sufficient for its purpose. Commissariat Stores and Offices are in Queen Street; the former are buildings of a most massive and solid description, containing Bakery, Meat and Forage Stores, &c. 38 The Convent, Southport Street, the official residence of the Governor, was formerly a Convent of Franciscan Friars, founded in 1480 and removed to its present position in 1531. It is a plain building, but spacious and commodious, with good reception- rooms. The Ball-room is formed from part of the Old Chapel of the Convent; it has a conveniently arranged alcove at the end where a tasteful little theatre is erected for performances; the drop scene was painted by Major Glass, R.A., in 1880. The Billiard-room is in the new wing erected in 1879. The banqueting- room, built in 1864, is enriched with the shields of arms, flags, mottoes, &c., of illustrious persons connected with Gibraltar, and of all the Governors of the fortress since 1704, executed chiefly by the Military Secretary, Colonel Crealock, from whose designs also the front of the Convent was remodelled, the present entrance Portico built, &c., &c. The stained glass in some of the windows shows the Royal Arms, Arms of Gibraltar, &c., and on panels in the others are emblazoned the arms of illustrious Spanish personages connected with Gibraltar, lists of Moorish Caliphs who pos- sessed it from 711 to 1462, and of Spanish kings who possessed it until 1704. On the panels under the windows are the names of distinguished Spaniards connected with Gibraltar. The beams of the roof are covered with crests and mottoes. The panels of the end doors are made out of the old dining tables mentioned by Drinkwater as having been made from cedar wood thrown on shore from the wrecks of the Spanish vessels engaged in the great attack on the Rock in Septem- ber, 1782, the shot holes, repaired by wooden slips, being very evident. The angels forming the corbels of the roof (designed by Prince Victor of Ho-: henlohe) support shields charged with the monograms of the principal kings and queens of Spain and Great Britain who have possessed Gibraltar. A copy of Winterhalter's picture of her Most Gracious Majesty is a striking object in the room. There are also many interesting paintings of old worthies of the time of the siege, in this hall, besides portraits of some of the late Governors: over the fire place is a portrait of General Eliott, Baron Heathfield of Gibraltar (who was Governor during the Great Siege 1779), an excellent copy from the picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds in the National Gallery. In the Patio or square Court of the Convent, round which the house is built as in most Spanish and Moorish houses, may be seen a wooden statue of General Eliott, cut out of the bowsprit of the Spanish man-of-war "San Juan" taken at Trafalgar, the wood of which seems, unluckily, of a durable nature, as the figure can scarcely be admired as a work of art. The features are of a very elevated cast; the little legs seem by no means equal to the task of sustaining the enor- 39 · mous cocked hat, and the bearing is so excessively military that it has been necessary to prop the great Commander from behind to prevent him from falling backward. There may also be seen specimens of the small ordnance, shot and shell, and a grate for heating shot, used during the siege, and some curious old stone shot found in the Inundation; a handsome bell brought from Europa, supposed to be from the old church there, and two very spirited cartoons executed in black and white on the walls by Captain Marshman, 28th Regiment, in 1870, the subjects being the "Sortie from Gibraltar, 1781," and "The Storming of Badajoz." The garden of the Convent is beautiful and well kept, there being an abundance of water. It has many rare and beautiful trees, the most curious being a Dragon tree said to be more than 1,000 years old, there are also several beautiful date Palms; even in the height of summer heat the grateful shade makes it a most agreeable retreat. There is also within the walls a raised terrace walk, affording a good view over the line wall; of the bay, with its shipping, the entrance of the Straits, and the opposite coasts of Spain and Barbary. Convent of our Lady of Europa, Europa Main-road. It is occupied by sisters of the Institute of our Lady of Loretto, and attached to it is a Young Ladies' Seminary, exceedingly well con- ducted and largely attended. The Court House was constructed in the Governorship of General Don. It is not remarkable for the uniformity of its architecture, although the portico follows the model of the Parthenon. It contains the Law Courts and offices, Library and chambers and offices for the Law Officers of the Colony, and in the North corner the offices of the Crown Land Board and the Receiver of the Revenues. The Exchange, Commercial-square, is the only commercial building in Gibraltar. It is presided over by an Exchange Committee and Chamber of Commerce, elected annually from among the inhabitants, and was founded by voluntary subscription in 1817 during the Governorship of Sir George Don, a bust of whom is over the front: it was publicly opened in August, 1818. It contains auction-rooms, offices, and the commercial library and reading room, to which travellers, especially mercan- tile, are readily admitted. * 40 The Garrison Library, Governor's Parade, will well repay a visit. It is the finest English institution of the kind out of England, and is the property of the Garrison. It was originated in 1793 by Colonel Drinkwater, author of the "History of the Siege." It grew so rapidly that on a representation by the Governor, General O'Hara, to his Royal Highness the Duke of York, then Commander-in-Chief, of the efforts then being made by the officers to obtain a suitable building, his Royal Highness referred the same to Mr. Pitt, who "upon consideration of the use and importance of "such an Institution" granted a sum of money for the erection of the present building, which, with the exception of the new wing, was completed in 1804, from the designs of Lieut.-Colonel Fyers, the Commanding Engineer. The new wing was completed in 1867. The Library contains at the present time nearly 40,000 volumes. The site was originally a garden belonging to the Governor, who had also the esplanade without (Governor's, properly Gunner's Parade) yielding sufficient grass to supply, throughout the year, his own horses and the cattle employed in the publie works.-Ayala. It would puzzle cattle to pick up a meal there now. A small pavilion adjoining, with a reading-room, bar, billiard-room, dressing- room, &c., has lately been opened in connection with the Library. Successive Committees have so improved the property by building houses which produce an annual income, and by the establishment of a Printing Office (where also the Gibraltar Chronicle is published) that the income from these sources renders possible a very small subscription from members. Gavino's Asylum in Prince Edward's Road; founded in 1850 by the Trustees of the late Don Juan Gavino of Gibraltar, who devised all his large property for charitable institutions. It maintains 28 aged paupers and 18 orphans. The Governor's Cottage. A long straggling building on the Mediterranean side of the Rock, beyond Europa-flats. It is used as a summer residence by the Governor of the Fortress, being a very cool and fresh retreat during the hot weather, as it is sheltered from the midday sun by the steep dark cliffs which overhang it, but in winter it is bleak and cold, and exposed to the heavy blasts of the South East storms and the dashing spray broken on the rocks below. A little further on from here the road ends at the Monkey's Cave, where the cliffs rising like walls out of the sea are quite impassable. 41 The Grand Store, Southport Street, includes the offices and stores of the Ordnance Store Depart- ment, contained in roomy and convenient buildings, offices of the Military Pay Department and the Military Chest. It was erected on part of the garden ground appertaining to the neighbouring Franciscan Convent, now the residence of the Governor. The old Armoury at the South end, now the Garrison Recreation Room, the old building being remodelled for the purpose under the auspices of the Governor, Sir J. M. Adye, in 1884, was built in 1790, and probably stands on ground formerly the burying place of the Convent, as a number of skeletons were dug from the foundations, and with the remains, in some instances, Rosaries were found. In 1876 the Armoury was used as a Ball Room for a grand Ball given by the Civil and Military inhabitants of Gibraltar on the occasion of the visit of the Prince of Wales on his return from India, at which his Royal Highness was pre- sent. The adjoining court, covered in and beautifully furnished and decorated, made a grand Reception Room, and the whole entertainment, at which more than 800 people were present, was a great success. Gymnasium. Europa Pass.-Opened in 1872. Besides its classes for athletics it is also used for physical exercises of another kind, most of the Balls and Quadrille Parties of the Non-Commissioned officers of the Garrison being held there. ✰. Lighthouse, Europa-flats, of which the foundation stone was laid by H. M. Queen Adelaide, assisted by the Masonic Order in Gibraltar. It was built nearly on the site of a celebrated chapel or hermitage (our Lady of Europe) in which was an Image of the Virgin held in great veneration throughout the City in the time of the Spaniards. This chapel was adorned and beautified with many costly gifts, par- ticularly silver lamps presented by the commanders of galleys as offerings for suc- cour, who also made provision for a constant supply of oil that a light might be invariably kept before the Holy Image, and this light was a great boon to navi- gators. Prince John Andrew Doria gave a beautiful silver lamp in 1568, having taken five Turkish galleys in the Straits. The chapel appears to have been founded on a Moorish building. A small patch of Moorish pavement shows the site on which the chapel formerly stood. Near to it was a large cistern or tank originally of noble architecture, known as the "Nuns' Well." The lighthouse is a wel- come object to ships making for Gibraltar at night. It was opened in 1811; the light is 150 feet above the sea level, and can be seen for 20 miles. { 6 42 The Lunatic Asylum is erected in a beautiful situation in Witham's Garden at the South and possesses a magnificent view over the Bay and Straits. It was erected by Lord Napier of Magdàla, to accommodate 20 male and 10 female patients, being finally com- pleted and occupied in 1884. The Main Guard, a plain building, with a portico, stands in the Commercial-square. On the ground floor are the Men's Guard-room and the cells, where refractory prisoners may be heard wearing out the panels of the door, their own boots, and the patience of those in charge, oftentimes in the witching hours of night. On the upper story is the Officers' Room, sparely furnished with mouldy and exceedingly curious specimens of the upholsterer's art, for the hire of which the gallant officer who has charge of the safety of the town for his weary tour of daily duty, has to pay a small sum to an enterprising local tradesman. The walls are ornamented by some few drawings of more or less merit, executed in spare moments of visiting sentries and receiving the field officer of the day,-not to mention the visits of sympathising brother officers, with whom it is de rigueur to drop in on the officer on duty, and solace his seclusion with much small talk, in conjunction with the fragrant and noxious weed. Three of these drawings, however, are well worth a more lengthened notice, not only for their own merit, but as the work of Henri Régnault, the most promising French artist of his time, whose genius and brilliant conceptions were lost to the world by his early death, at Buzenval, the last battle fought under Paris, in the Franco-Prussian War. Possessed of great natural abilities, of extreme sensibility, and the most agreeable manners; entirely devoted to his art, in which he was first brought into notice by his winning the Grand Prix de Rome with his picture of "Judith and Holofernes;" his next picture which made a noise in the world, "General Prim heading the Insurrection at Madrid," gained for him the very greatest commendation from all classes of critics, and the most brilliant future was prophesied for him; all agreed him to be the rising French artist of the day. Intending to devote himself, at least for some time, to Eastern subjects for his pencil, he went to Spain, and lingering long at Granada, gained a rich store from the interiors of the brilliant Alhambra; and, passing through Gibraltar, where he became a general favourite and was everywhere a welcome guest, took up his residence in Tangier, where he produced several small pictures of Moorish life and manners, and his great work, "Une Exécution à Tanger," the scene of which is taken from the Alhambra, and the incident from every-day life in Morocco. This picture was exhibited in London at the Inter- national Exhibition in 1871. When war broke out, Henri Régnault left his studio, and throwing on one side 43 his rising fame and brilliant prospects, hastened, at the call of duty, to take his place in the ranks of the defenders of his country, and fell at a sortie from Paris, on the 19th January, 1871. And thus, at the early age of twenty-seven years, the life of Henri Regnault, which had opened with such fair promise, was ended, and his fame only remains in the loving recollection of his many friends, and in a few works of art which are of vivid conception and masterly execution. The drawings in the Main Guard-room, sketched by him in an idle moment, are therefore of almost historical interest, and they have been preserved from injury by the care of an officer of the Garrison, at the request of many of his old com- panions in his own country, for the defence of which he laid down his life. The Market. The present Market was commenced in the summer of 1876, the Foundation Stone having been laid on the 17th April in that year with full Masonic honours, by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, M.W. Grand Master of the Freemasons of England, assisted by the District Grand Lodge of Gibraltar. The occasion of the visit of his Royal Highness was on his return from his Indian tour, and he stayed here for ten days. Major-General Somerset, C.B., was Acting-Governor, and Colonel Baynes, Colonial Secretary of Gibraltar at the time; G. F. Cornwell, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, District Grand Master; Captain Gilbard, Brigade Major, Deputy District Grand Master; and S. Buckle, Esq., Lieutenant R.E., Colonial Engineer, by whom the Market was designed. His Royal Highness the Duke of Connaught was also present on the occasion, he having been attached to the Staff of the Garrison since October in the preceding year. The cost of the Market was estimated at £10,000, to be provided in two portions, as the work of replacing the old inconvenient buildings was gradually effected and the money was appro- priated from the accumulation of Colonial Revenue. It is commodious and well supplied; as all produce must be imported the prices vary much with the time of year, the state of the weather, &c. Meat is brought from Galicia, Southern Spain, and Barbary, the former being by far the best. Barbary also supplies immense quantities of poultry and eggs, the poultry being brought over in long cylindrical baskets of cane-work, open at both ends, but secured by cord-nettings. Of fish there is a reasonable supply; but the tunny, once a source of immense revenue to the coast proprietors, the descendants of the Duke of Medina Sidonia, are now scarce, and caught only in very small numbers. Soles, turbot, John Dory, mackerel, sardines, mullet, both red and grey, gurnard, anchovy, bonito, rangers, and rock cod are still plentiful; but with the exception of the soles, turbot, John Dory, and ranger, the fish is of a very watery flavour. It would appear that tastes have materially changed since the time of the ancients, as Suetonius mentions that the Emperor Vitellius used to have vessels of three . 44 banks of oars constantly employed to fetch the delicate fish of the Straits of Gibraltar.-Muraenarum lactes, a Carpatho usque fretoque Hispanic per navarchos ac triremes petitarum commiscuit. The tunny fishery formerly was of the greatest importanee, and yielded an enormous revenue. It is related that in 1558 110,152 fish were taken, giving a revenue of 800,000 ducats, and the average take of fish was over 100,000 yearly. Many of the watch-towers along the coast were erected as posts of observation for experienced fishermen, whose duty it was to signal the shoals. Fruits and vegetables are both cheap and abundant; and of the former the chief kinds are oranges, melons, bananas, apples, figs and grapes, the muscatel being very fine and in great quantities. During the season, a few pence will pur- chase a feast of these delicious grapes which could not be enjoyed in England for as many shillings. The melons are brought chiefly from Valencia, and lie piled up in pyramidal heaps like shot and shell. They are of two kinds, sweet and water melons. Until the middle of the last century no free market was established in Gibraltar, and many and great were the abuses accordingly. Under the old system, con- tractors were established and a monopoly of all supplies. Only one butcher was allowed in the Garrison, and all importation of live cattle or meat prohibited to the officers, so that they are reported to have been frequently without fresh pro- visions for more than a fortnight. If any officers had had leave granted to them to keep a cow, a goat or a sow, they were forbidden to kill anything without license; and an officer and a chaplain of the Garrison were threatened with a court martial for disobedience, because they had each killed a sucking-pig without leave. These abuses naturally brought remonstrances; and a memorial having been sent home, although at first the Governor would not entertain it, and threatened arrest for insubordination, new Articles of War were sent out, and a free market expressly directed. (C So great was the monopoly established and so stringent the rules, that Captain Preston, of Fowke's Regiment, was tried by a court martial in July, 1746, for buying a turbot for his dinner, when on the Landport Guard, the fisherman having protested that he was bound first to offer it to the Governor. The gist of his defence was necessity has no law." He urged that he had nothing but pease pottage for his dinner, and replied to the Governor's orderly sergeant, and after- wards to the Town Major, that he would keep the fish accordingly, and that he had an equal right to be served at the same time with the Governor in a public market. He declaimed against the injustice and cruelty of stopping all supplies of fresh provisions, and declared that, although he strenuously denied any spirit 45 t of mutiny, he would do the same again as often as he should be in the same necessity. The unfortunate officer gained his dinner, but lost his commission, as he was sentenced to be cashiered. The following appears in General Orders of 1759:- "The fishermen representing to Lord Home that being obliged to bring their fish to the Convent as formerly practised was a hurt to them, orders that they shall not be obliged to bring up their fish as formerly practised. But that they do not sell or dispose of any of their fish before the Governor's servant has bought what may be wanting for his table, and the servant employed for that purpose will have orders to be early at the Market every morning and to acquaint the Officer of the Guard as soon as he ħas bought sufficient." The Jew's Market is held in the Commercial Square, Plaza del Martillo, from auction sales being held there, chiefly of tobacco which may be seen there in huge botas as it comes from America, partly broken open to show the quality of what may be a noxious weed, but which is a necessity of life to the Spaniard. The goods sold at this Market are of great diversity and marvellous cheapness. The Military Prison. A large building with massive walls solidly built, on the edge of Windmill Hill Flats. The Chief Warder is the Superintendent. The Mount, Europa Road. A delightful Villa residence, situated in beautiful flower gardens and with large garden ground and meadows attached. It possesses some noble trees of many kinds, and the peeps from it over the Straits are charming. It is the official residence of the Senior Naval Officer, and from its varied attractions in the shape of fruits, herbs, &c., it is a very favourite resort of the Rock monkeys, who do no little damage during the year. Naval Hospital, large and commodious, built in a square with an open court, containing some beautiful orange-trees and surrounded by piazzas with galleries above. It was built to accommodate 1,000 men. Originally erected for the Navy in case a British Fleet should be stationed in the Mediterranean, it is now the general hos- pital for the whole garrison as well as for seamen, with Pavilions at each wing for the accommodation of the Medical Officers. From the military quarters at 46 Rosia, better known as Misery Hole, a path leads by Camp Bay to the Naval Hospital, and from there the visitor can get through the Buena Vista Barracks, across a slight bridge over a tremendous ravine to Europa Pass, and thence by the Devil's Bowling Green to Europa. In this route the general outline of the scenery is very grand. The Police Office. A handsome building of red brick, with a front colonnade of Gothic arches, but the effect is spoiled by its being attached to other houses (the Public Baths). The rooms and offices are commodious and the house for the Chief of Police joins it. The Registry for Births, Marriages and Deaths is in this building, the Registrar being also Clerk to the Justices. Officers' Racket Court, South Barracks.-Commodious and fitted with every convenience. Recreation Rooms. This important resort for the amusement and occupation of the Military is situated in the Old Armoury, Southport Street and the adjoining premises, which were diverted to their present purpose through the instrumentality of the kind interest and urgent representations of the Governor, Sir J. Miller Adye, in 1883, of the necessity for such a building. Rosia and its Surroundings. Situated below the South Barracks and facing the West, Rosia contains some of the best private residences on the Rock, they being large and commodious, with good gardens attached. It is entirely sheltered from the East wind. The houses belong to the Admiralty. It was the residence of Naval celebrities in old times, before the present official residence of the Senior Naval Officer was devoted to that purpose. Rosia has its bay and mole, with bathing-places for men and officers; and here ships of war receive their supplies from its naval stores and tanks of fresh water, which are very large. Sailors' Home, Engineer-street.-This excellent Institution, supported by voluntary contributions, aided by contributions from the local Government and from the Admiralty, was established mainly through the exertions of Captain Phillimore, R.N., senior naval officer, and the Rev. Canon Addison, Civil Chaplain. The house was 47 partially opened for the reception of seamen on July 25, 1871, in the presence of H. E. the Governor, General Sir William Fenwick Williams, G.C.B., Rear- Admiral Beauchamp Seymour, C.B., and the principal inhabitants of Gibraltar, and was finally completed and opened by H.E. the Governor and Vice-Admiral Sir H. A. Yelverton, K.C.B., on 20th June, 1872. The number of seamen who have made use of the Home since its establishment is very large, the number amounting to more than 25,000, and it is found of incalculable value to the seamen and marines of the Royal Navy on the visits of the Fleets, for in a place like Gibraltar where strangers are jealously excluded and the necessity for ample lodging accommodation does not exist, the Sailors' Home is extensively patronized by those on leave on shore, as many as 150 being sheltered in one night, although only 50 beds can be made up. Soldiers' Institute, Governor's Parade.-A place of rest and recreation for Soldiers; provided with books, papers, games, coffee room, &c. St. Bernard's College, Europa-road, (incorporated with the Immaculate Conception Institute in 1872), was established to provide a commercial, literary, and scientific education for young gentlemen, but, not succeeding as an educational establishment, it is now used as a private house in addition to other residences for some of the clergymen of the Roman Catholic Churches. In the Chapel of this establishment the Image of the Virgin is said to be the identical one taken from the old Chapel of Nuestra Señora at Europa Point. The Theatre Royal. The exterior is plain and without ornament, and the interior approaches some- what inconvenient and narrow; it was for many years the only building in the town where publie entertainments could take place, and by boarding over the Pit Stalls it makes a pretty Ball-room with a convenient Supper-room adjoining. Private Houses. There are a great many excellent private houses in Gibraltar, some of them very large and commodious, more particularly in the business parts of the town -Irish Town and City Mill Lane especially-where they are built with immense stores and cellars, such being absolutely necessary in the palmy days of Gibraltar commerce. One of the best is close to the Main Guard; Connaught House, the property of the Larios family, named after H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, who 48 occupied it; he arrived in the Garrison in the autumn of 1875 and remained for six months, attached to the Adjutant-General's Department of the Staff. His Royal Highness was a Major in the 7th Hussars at the time. The mansion was formerly the old Club House Hotel, but has been very much improved and enlarged. Other members of the Royal Family were also quartered for some time at Gibraltar in a military capacity, H.R.H. Prince George of Cambridge, the Field Marshal Commanding-in-Chief, having arrived here in October, 1838, and in earlier years H.R.H. the Duke of Kent, father of Her Most Gracious Majesty, who returned to Gibraltar as Governor in 1802, was quartered here in 1790 as Colonel of the 7th Royal Fusiliers. The Duke of Cambridge occupied Line Wall House, now the residence of the Major-General commanding the Infantry Brigade. This house was originally the residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Gibraltar, and in it died on the 1st of January, 1830, General Sir George Don, who had been Lieutenant Governor for many years; he was buried in the Cathe- dral, where a monument is erected to his memory. When two Major-Generals at one time had commands in Gibraltar the residence of the second was at Rosia, opposite the Racket Court. Another large and handsome private house is Arengo's Palace in Castle Road, which from its terrace and garden enjoys a magnificent view. The Dockyard. This establishment, situated in the S.W. portion of the Rock and covering about four acres of land, was opened during the last century, and was at one time of great importance. It was here in October, 1805, after the engagement off Trafalgar that several of Lord Nelson's ships arrived to make good defects before sailing for England, the "Victory," conveying the dead hero, being one of them. During the war, towards the end of the last and beginning of the present cen- tury, the Dockyard rendered valuable assistance, the greater part of the supplies for the Fleets then blockading the neighbouring ports being drawn from its stores. Gunboats were constructed, and as appears from correspondence still retained, much work constantly took place relative to the purchase and fitting out and arming of ships captured by ships of war and privateers, to be again used against the enemy; and to damaged ships being made good after being in action, &c. One letter signed by Lord Nelson, dated on board the "Victory" at sea, 2d January, 1805, respecting the disposal of a valuable prize cargo of "Compass timber, captured by one of his ships, is still preserved in the Dockyard as a "" 49 memento. Up to 1833 Gibraltar Dockyard was the principal arsenal for British Fleets in the Mediterranean; in that year peace being assured, and Malta yard having been considerably increased and placed on a more extensive footing, the establishment here was greatly reduced, part of the officers and artificers returning to England, and others being pensioned, only a sufficient staff being retained to meet probable requirements or cases of emergency. In 1842 it was decided to employ convict labour for works in connection with the naval establishment, and with this view H.M.S. "Owen Glendower," a 42 gun frigate, was despatched with 200 convicts on board to construct buildings for the reception of a much larger number. The work was commenced the same year, a portion of the Dock- yard being handed over to Colonel Harding, Commanding Royal Engineer, for the purpose, and when these were completed, as many as 500 convicts occupied the place employed on the public works until 1876, when the Convict Establish- ment was broken up; the hulk "Owen Glendower," which had been the hospital ship for the convicts, being retained as a receiving ship and attached to the yard until the year 1883 when she was disposed of to be broken up; the buildings being turned into workshops and storehouses. It was while dredging operations were being carried out in 1872 to provide a more suitable berth for the hulk near the Camber, that several pieces of heavy wood, which proved to be the flooring of a ship with iron ballast-and shingle ballast on top-were discovered; also eight brass cannon of foreign manufacture, probably Spanish, a quantity of shot and shell of various sizes, hand grenades, grape, several cylindrical pieces of iron with a hole in the centre, supposed to be "carcasses," all evidently the wreck of some ship of war. In hammering off the mud, which was firmly coated, from one of the "r carcasses the substance in the centre ignited and burnt for a quarter of an hour, although the composition of which it was made had probably been submerged for upwards of 100 years. The brass guns, on which no date or marks could be discovered, were afterwards, with the sanction of the Admiralty, distributed, two of them being presented to the Spanish Government to be placed in the naval academy at Ferrol, two being forwarded to the Governor to be placed in the Convert with other relics of the great siege, others being sent to the Admiralty, with specimens of the projectiles, and two retained in the yard. It is supposed from the large size of some of the shot recovered that guns of a much heavier calibre remain embedded in the mud in the vicinity. "" The Dockyard has been greatly improved of late years, and it is now supplied with every requisite for the repair and refit of any of H.M. ships: machinery of the latest type having been sent from England and erected in the different work- shops, at great cost. On several occasions a Dock has been proposed to be built but for various reasons it has never been carried out, and at present it would seem that the intention has been dropped. The New Mole, now under enlargement, was commenced in 1620 but extended 7 50 only for 300 feet; it was built on a natural bed of rock, the end of it being marked by the small square tower. In 1851 the present extension was com- menced; over 700,000 tons of stone, obtained from the quarries on the Rock having already been used to make the foundation and breakwater, a large quantity being still required to complete it, the estimated cost for the whole amounting to £230,000. When finished, the Mole then a quarter of a mile long and about 130 feet broad, will afford valuable shelter in bad weather; the wharfs, contain- ing immense stores for coal, being constructed to withstand any strain, and three of our largest ironclads will find room alongside with perfect safety. Forming part of the Naval Establishment and situated at about ten minutes walk from the Dockyard is The Victualling Yard, Rosia, built in 1808-12 by Mr. Boschetti, a native of Gibraltar. Its magazines contain supplies of provisions and clothing sufficient for a large fleet, and it also possesses a reservoir containing over 6,000 tons of water. The Alameda Gardens, (Alameda-A public promenade with which very few Spanish towns are not pro- vided the name is taken from Alamo, poplar tree.) They are between the North and South towns. Before 1814 this place consisted of a parade-ground. only bearing the name of the Red Sands, but the then Governor, Sir George Don, caused it to be planted in terraces with trees and shrubs, which are now most luxuriant, and astonish the eye by the great profusion of the flowers and vegeta- tion, of which the geraniums are the most noticeable. On the Red Sands the force was drawn up in 1781 during the Great Siege, on the night of the success- ful sortie against the advanced works of the besiegers on the North Front. Beau- tiful walks lead in all directions through the gardens, which form the most attractive feature of Gibraltar, and the favourite resort of the inhabitants, who crowd thither to listen to the music of the military bands which play twice a week during the year. On the Alameda Parade the ceremony of guard mounting and trooping the colour is performed every Thursday morning at 10 o'clock during the cool months. The Gardens have been greatly improved of late years, the lower part, bordering the Main Road, being most tastefully laid out with rock work and highly cultivated with a constant succession of varied and beautiful flowers; they are the subject of constant care on the part of the Colony. At the head of the Heathfield Steps is placed, on a marble pillar, a bust of General Eliott, the defender of the Rock in the Great Siege; and in another part a bust of the Duke of Wellington, on a marble pillar from Lepida. This was erected in 1820, at the cost of a day's pay from all the Garrison, 51 In the Red Sands, on which the Alameda Gardens are, was originally the water conduit of the Moors, the water being conducted by pipes through the town and issuing at the Atarazana (the Arsenal), now the Waterport, for the use of the Galleys. The modern Acqueduct was formed in the time of the Spaniards, bring- ing the water from the reservoirs at the foot of the Red Sands, and was well maintained until comparatively later days; it delivered its water at a Fountain in the Grand Parade, on part of which is now the Commercial Square. At the extreme end of the Red Sands, which began at the present well at Ragged Staff and extended for over 800 yards towards the South, were formerly plantations of trees of delicious fruits of many varieties, and in the midst of them was a chapel under the protection of the Knights of St. John of Malta, and a Calvary with many stations, resting places and crosses, in memory of those over which our Saviour passed for the salvation of mankind. The Signal Station, called El Hacho (the Torch) by the Spaniards, because here were lighted the beacons in case of danger, is situated on the central eminence of the Rock, 1,294 feet above the level of the sea. It consists of a modern barrack and a stone tower, and from it the Straits are watched and the movements of shipping reported. The Straits of Gibraltar commence from Cape Trafalgar and Cape Spartel in the West to Europa Point and Ceuta Point in the East. So extensive is the range of observation from this elevated spot that vessels can be reported, on a calm day, when distant 40 miles from the Rock. The view from here is most noble and extensive. Two seas-the Straits so celebrated and famed in antiquity-bordered by two continents, the elevated Atlas whose head appears to sustain the skies, fill the mind with admiration, as Ayala says. Standing on the summit of one of the Pillars of Hercules we gaze upon the other, Mons Abyla (Almina), only fourteen miles away, Ceuta, the seven peaks of its mountains; the Cuchillos de Siris (heights of Siris) forming with Tarifa the narrowest part of the Straits, Tangier, with its white houses, clear in the sunlight, and Cape Spartel; while on the Spanish side we can observe the opening of the Bay, Cabrita Point; Algeciras, with its forts and Green Island, the heights of Ojen and Samoña, backed by the lofty range of the barren Cuervo, the two rivers cutting the Vega like silver threads, the one Palmones with its salt pans glittering in regular lines, the other Guadar- ranque, on the east bank of which are the hillocks which now only mark the ruins of ancient Carteia, its old watch tower of Carthagena, Orange Grove (Puente Mayorga), a fishing village on the beach, Punta Mala with its jutting rocks, Campamento and San Roque; from whence looking Eastward we see first the Monte Carbonera (Queen of Spain's Chair), with the Lines at its foot, 52 the fishing village of La Tunara on the Eastern Beach, and next the Sierra Ber- meja, behind which rise in majestic grandeur the high mountains of the Serannía de Ronda, towering above the rest, in a cleft of which we can make out Gaucin, the key of the range; while further again to the Eastward we observe Estepona and Marbella on the beach stretching towards Malaga, and Manilba more inland, the view being bounded on this side by the rocky mountains of the Alpujarras and the Sierra Nevada, which overtops them, covered with perpetual streams; while below the visitor sees the whole of the town of Gibraltar laid out as on a map, and the sandy isthmus, with the waves breaking in white crests on its eastern shore; while the little village of Catalan Bay, with its tiny beach, nestles at the foot of the tremendous precipice which almost overhangs it. The sight of the blue waters of the Bay, now so calm and tranquil, with its sleepy old hulks, and the steamers lying alongside them for coal, three or four fussy little steam tugs, and a few faluchos with their white sails, will hardly carry the mind back to that terrible morning in September, now more than a century ago, when the combined French and Spanish fleets advanced from the Orange Grove in support of the battering ships of D'Arçon to the grand attack on the Rock in magnificent array, and from which, before night, they had been driven back defeated, the battering ships being annihilated. On that day, so glorious for the English arms and those who upheld their honour so grandly and with so great success, fifty sail of the line, ten floating batteries, "incombustible and insubmergible," with countless gun and mortar boats, and three hundred smaller crafts, covered the waters of the Bay and ranged themselves in battle against the fortress; assisted on the land side by two hundred and forty-six pieces of cannon, mortars and howitzers, supported by an army of 40,000 men. Try to imagine the scene on the following day, when as the grey morning dawned the sight was so sublimely terrible; masses of shattered wreck, to which were clinging the drowning crews, floated over the troubled waves; groans and cries for help reached even to the walls or were drowned in the thunders of the exploding magazines, while the glaring flames of the burning vessels cast a vivid light over the awful spectacle--when the brave Brigadier Curtis, of the Royal Navy, who had done such good service on all occasions with his vessels and gunboats, was making the most heroic efforts to effect the rescue of hundreds of officers and men, some wounded, who were still on board the blazing batteries, and who were literally dragged from the burning decks by his cool intrepidity. Desperate indeed had been the struggle and great the victory, as viewed by General Eliott from his place on the King's Bastion the contest was at an end and the united strength of two ambitious and powerful nations had been humbled by a straitened garrison of only 6,000 effective men with 96 guns. Surely the visitor will look again and again on the tranquil waters, gleaming in the sunshine, which were once the scene of a conflict so terrible and so glorious. ; 53 A small battery is situated a few feet below the Signal Station, facing the west- ward, from which the morning and evening guns are fired as a notice for the opening and closing of the fortress gates. The Caves. Like all compact limestones, the Rock abounds in caves and fissures. The most celebrated are St. Michael's, and Genista (3) (inland caves or fissures), and Martin's, Fig-tree, Monkey's, and Poca Roca (littoral or sea caves): there is also a remarkable cave, called the Judge's Cave, in the garden of Glenrocky, Europa Pass. Great labour has been expended on the exploration of these caves, and Captain Brome, the late Governor of the military prison, rendered great service to science by his reports on the subject. The largest of these is St. Michael's, 1,100 feet above the sea level; so called, says Portillo, in his Historia manuscrita de Gibraltar, preserved in the Archives of Algeciras, from the similarity of its appearance to that in the mountain Gar- gano del Apulla, where St. Michael is said to have appeared. The entrance is small, but within is a species of lofty hall, 220 feet long, 90 wide and 70 high, supported hy stalactite pillars, which when lighted up has a most beautiful effect, for some of these pillars are thirty, forty and fifty feet in height, and on the top of them arches are formed, so that the whole resembles the interior of a Gothic Cathedral. The natural beauties of this part of the Cave are therefore very great; but from the absolute darkness and from its immense height it is difficult to appreciate its full beauty, more especially as the smoke of the torches, blue lights, &c., from the constant illuminations by parties of travellers has so much obscured the glittering beauties of the petrifactions. The Cave is described by Pomponius Mela, a geographer of the Augustan Age, who says, "This mountain "(Calpe), with wonderful concavities, has its Western side almost opened by a "large cave, which may be penetrated far into the interior." The entrance to it is 1,100 feet above the sea level. From this Cave visits to others may be made but at some personal discomfort as the passages are low and harrow. Explorers have penetrated many hundred of feet into this Cave and have discovered a long series of smaller Caves, but their actual extent is unknown. Ladies, however, need not be afraid of pro- ceeding to the exploration of Leonora's Cave, where from candles only having been used to light up the stalactite pillars are undimmed by smoke, and the descent although a little difficult is not too arduous an undertaking. In all the Caves great quantities of fossil remains, including human skulls, bones and teeth, with flint weapons and pottery have been discovered; among 54 • them bones of goat, ox, ibex, and indeed all kinds of mammals; remains of birds, fish (chiefly tunny) and reptiles; stone axes and daggers, armlets and anklets, worked bone needles, spoons and hair pins; flint knives and chips, querns, rubstones, charcoal; sea shells, shell work, barnacles, and remains of jars and amphora. In one Cave the human remains found were those of thirty-six per- sous. A perfect skeleton was also discovered when excavating above the Moorish Castle, but the miners blew it to pieces. The only metal articles found were a bronze fish hook, used by the ancient Cave-dwellers, probably of the Roman time, a plaque of Limoges work, probably part of some military equipment, and two swords, with globular pommels, mounted with silver. These Caves were evidently used for different purposes, some as habitations, some as places of refuge from danger, and some only as sepulchres. At the present day Caves or hollows similar to those on Windmill Hill Flats are still utilised, for in the neighbourhood of Tetuan, where the rocky district very much resembles Europa Flats, there are numerous small Caves used as workshops by tile makers. The Galleries are the great sight of Gibraltar, and a visit to them should on no account be neglected. There is no excavation in the world, for military purposes, at all approaching them in conception or execution. The long line of gal- leries is pierced at intervals with embrasures blasted out of the rock, from which ragged openings peer the muzzles of the guns. They are divided into two ranges, the upper and lower (Windsor and Union Galleries), the latter being partly under cover and partly open, the upper range containing two magnificent halls, St. George's and Cornwallis'. The upper galleries commence near the Moorish Tower, and following the contour, of the tortuous cliffs of the Rock on its northern face, terminate at a curious prominent peak or pinnacle, the interior of which at the summit has been extensively excavated (St George's Hall) and heavily armed. From here an iron staircase leads to the outside of the pinnacle (The Queen's Look out), from whence a glorious view is obtained. Below this upper line of galleries are others far more vast and wonderful in their construc- tion; these too have been liewn and blasted out of the tough limestone and are of marvellous size and strength. Upwards of 1,350 men could find shelter in them. These magnificent works are not surpassed by any in the world. These galleries are fully armed, and have large magazines attached to them. Their ex- cavation out of the solid rock was commenced during the siege, to bring a flank- ing fire to bear on the approaches to the Rock, by convict labour under Lieut. Evoleth, R.E., assisted by Sergeant Ince. Both were amply rewarded; a large piece of ground was conferred on the first-it is now covered with houses; while The Sergeant received a property near the Queen's Road, still called Ince's Farm. It is said that Sergeant Ince was the originator of the idea of the Galleries, as 55 when on one occasion in public, General Eliott exclaimed, "I would give a thou- "sand dollars to any one who would tell me how to bring a flanking fire on these "works!" (pointing out some very troublesome batteries of the enemy); the Sergeant stepped forward and made his suggestion. The visitor, on obtaining a permit from the Military Secretary's Office, and proceeding to the Moorish Castle Guard, will be taken charge of by a Gunner and conducted through the upper galleries. The lower range can only be visited by a permit from H.E. the Governor himself. The Lower Lines are perhaps the most interesting part of the Rock to a soldier. The means by which a large body of men can be kept under cover and be at once available to man the Lines to repel an assault either on the City or on the Lines themselves show that our ancestors knew what they were about. The Moorish Castle. This was once a stately palace, and a large, strong and magnificent pile of forti- fication before the time of artillery, although even now it is riddled with shot- marks, the honourable scars of the siege. It is one of the oldest Moorish buildings in Spain, supposed to have been commenced by Tarik, but not completed until 742 by Abul Hazez, as the Arabic inscription formerly over the south gate recorded, the translation being as follows:-" Prosperity, and peace to our Sovereign and servant of God, supreme Governor of the Moors, our Sovereign "Abi Abul Hajez, the son of Jesid, supreme Ruler of the Moors, son of our "Sovereign Abi Al-walid, whom God preserve." It consisted formerly of a triple wall, descending to the water side, the Grand Battery and Waterport batteries being built on the site of the lower part, which enclosed an arsenal, where the gallies were built. The Officers' Quarters, Casemate Barracks, now occupy this ground, formerly the English Naval cooperage and store houses; hence Cooperage Lane. The most noticeable feature now remaining is the Torre de Homenage, where the Moorish Governors took the oath of allegiance, a massive square tower in a most commanding position, but the remaining walls and fragments of arches, &c., show at once of what a solid construction it formerly consisted. It is well worth a visit. * Being built in the days of bows and arrows and battering-rams, its thickest walls are consequenly those facing the hill behind it. As gunpowder was invented, the attack came from the present North Front; and as the walls on this side were comparatively thin, its defenders built it up inside with a tough concrete called "tapia," the art of making which seems lost here; and the Tower, as it now stands, is almost solid, a square shaft, in which is a wooden staircase, is the only hollow, with the exception of a deep tank or well which opens from the rooms at the top. • · 56 The staircase leads out on to a terrace running round the north and west faces of the Tower, whence is a splendid view; and on the same level are the only rooms now in the Tower, called the "Moorish General's" rooms, which are very interesting; one of them appears to have been a private Mosque and another the Bath room; a well in the centre of these rooms receives water from the roof. From the first terrace at the entrance of the tower a covered walk may be traced along the battlement to an old Tower below, wrongly described by some writers as an old Mosque. It is used as a Magazine. The north and east faces show many marks of the numerous sieges Gibraltar has sustained. It is said ancient arrow-heads have been found sticking in the tough concrete of which the Tower is built. A great portion of the Castle precincts inside the walls has been devoted to officers' quarters, barracks and married quarters. Inside the walls also is the civil prison, which, although small, is most admirably conducted and kept. It can accommodate forty prisoners, including debtors, for whom rather more ample accommodation is provided. Prisoners are sent here from the Supreme Court, and from the Courts of the Captain of the Port and Police Magistrate, for short sentences. There are a few very interesting remains in existence in Gibraltar, one of which, however, is rather problematical. One of them is the remains of the old Moorish Mosque in the military quarters in Bomb House-lane, about which there is no doubt; and the other, the supposed Chambers of the Inquisition in Horse Barrack- lane-yard, which are said to extend under the Green Market, but of this there is no authentic confirmation. In the Castle itself the old Mosque has quite dis- appeared; in it was an inscription in Arabic, "To the God of Peace, the great "Pacificator; to the eternal God who will be for ever." The Barracks of Gibraltar are many and spacious; they include, in the North district- The Casemate Barracks, Artillery Barracks-Gunner's Parade,* The Town Range Barracks, Hargrave Barracks; * The name was changed to Gunner's instead of Governor's when the Duke of Kent was Governor, in orders of 30th March, 1803, and it was appropriated to the use of the Royal Artillery as a regimental parade. 57 and in the South,— South Barracks, Rosia Barracks, Buena Vista Barracks, Windmill Hill, Europa Barracks, Brewery and Defensible Barracks, Europa Flats, besides casemated barracks along the whole of the Line Wall front, which are chiefly occupied by Artillery, small barracks in the Moorish Castle, and wooden huts, lately erected on the North Front, with all necessary conveniences of mess-room, officers' quarters, &c., to contain one wing of a regiment. There is also a small barrack for a detachment stationed at Catalan Bay, a small village on the eastern side of the Rock, ensconced in a sandy bay and oc- cupied principally by fishermen of Genoese origin. It is doubtful whether any of the present barracks date from the Spanish pos- session, except perhaps the remains of the old barracks at Windmill Hill (Fuze House Barracks). The Town Range and Spanish Pavilion were built in 1772 and 1790: very likely there were Spanish barracks on these sites and the walls may have been partly worked in. The South Barracks were built in 1730 to 1735 to hold 1,200 men. Europa Mess House was built in 1828 as a sanatorium for officers, but it was afterwards found that it was more convenient and advantageous to their recovery to send them to England when steam communication rendered the passage an easy undertaking. The building was empty until the hut barracks were built, and standing by itself obtained the name of Bleak House. The question of the number of cubic feet of air necessary was evidently not con- sidered of much importance in those days. King's Bastion casemates were intended for 800 men, and actually held 1,000 men of the 48th Regiment in the early part of the century. General Boyd laid the foundation stone of this Bastion, and expressed a hope that he might live to see it attacked by the united Fleets of France and Spain; he had his wish during the Great Siege. He died at Gibraltar, and his ashes lie at the foot of the inner wall where his epitaph may be seen. The Gates of Gibraltar, Land Gates-Bayside Barrier, at the entrance of the Causeway into Spain; Landport and Grand Casemate on the North side of the town; and Prince Edward's and Southport Gates on the South side. Close outside the latter in the Main Ditch is the Trafalgar Cemetery, where many of the killed at the glorious victory of Trafalgar lie buried. The Royal Ans of Charles V. of Spain can be 8 + de 58 seen over Southport Gate. It was in his reign that the Arms of Spain received the addition of the Columns of Hercules, with the inscription plus ultra, the new world being then discovered, in contradistinction to the former motto of non plus ultra, no longer corresponding to the already wide-spreading Spanish dominions. Water Gates-Waterport and Old Mole Gates on the North side of the town, and the New Mole and Ragged Staff Gates outside the town. (The Ragged Staff was a badge of the Burgundian Charles V). Southport, Grand Casemates and Waterport Gates were single gates until 1883-4 when double gates were opened in the walls for the convenience of traffic, during the Government of Sir J. M. Adye, whose coat of arms and the Arms of Gibraltar are placed on the new Southport Gate under the Royal Arms. Besides these main gates into the fortress there are gates at the different lines of defences-Europa Pass Gate, Windmill Hill Gates (Jacob's Ladder and Hole in the Wall), and Queen's Road Gate, where the upper wall, built by Charles V., joins the precipice below; Rosia Gate for the use of the Naval Victualling Yard and bathers, and Camp Bay gateway, leading also to a beach for bathing and the Telegraph House, where the shore end of the Submarine Cable is landed. The question is often asked, particularly in the summer months when the even- ings are so beautiful, Why should the gates into Spain not be kept open; there cannot be any military danger to the safety of the place? In reply to this it is only necessary to mention that the material for general and domestic labour in Gibraltar is by no means satisfactory, and that it is absolutely necessary to admit into this confined and crowded town a considerable number of foreigners. The number of persons who come into the town on daily permits amounts to more than 3,000, and the presence of these persons of different nationalities in the nar- row and confined streets of the town until any hour would doubtless be a source of considerable inconvenience, often perhaps also of disturbance. Hence they are obliged to quit at the approach of nightfall, and the result cannot be said to be otherwise than satisfactory. Gibraltar possesses one of the most quiet popu- lations and is one of the most law-abiding places in the British dominions, as its criminal records will testify; and Ayala bears witness to this fact, as follows:- "It was apprehended that amid such diversity of persons of different religions, "customs and interests, quarrels and atrocities would prevail in Gibraltar similar "to those existing in other cities of Spain. But the severity of a Military Gov- ❝ernment has prevented such disorders; for individuals resorting thither being "aware of the certainty of punishment awaiting offences, and that the magistrates "and those in authority cannot be corrupted, find their own security best guaran- "teed by not disturbing that of others; and thus by the effect of good and cer- "tain laws well enforced many years passed without any occurrence of assassina- ❝tion or violent deaths, as are too often seen in smaller places where the inabitants P 59 "C "C "are of uniform manners and religion." Perhaps this might not be the case if the indulgencies granted in 1377 in order to people the place were still in exis- tence. Then it was ordered by the King "that all those who shall proceed to "Gibraltar, and shall be inhabitants or dwellers therein, whether swindlers, thieves, murderers or other evil doers whatsoever, or woman escaped from her husband, shall be freed and secured from the punishment of death, and they "shall neither be threatened nor have injury done to them;" the only exceptions being "traitors to their Lord or breakers of the King's peace, or one who shall "have carried off his Lord's wife; for these shall be punished as they deserve.” Another very important element of good behaviour on the part of the visitors is the power which the authorities possess of keeping out of the Garrison those strangers whom it is not considered desirable to admit, and as that would cer- tainly happen with law breakers, and also that Gibraltar being almost a necessity for the existence of the neighbouring people, they are on their best behaviour when within its walls. Moles and Landing Places. Commencing from the South- Rosia Mole-R.N. landing place for Victualling Yard and for coals for the Garrison. New Mole-In the Dockyard, where coal for ships of the Royal Navy is stored, and the wharf used by her Majesty's men-of-war and transports; landing place for boats of the Royal Navy and yachts. It is 1,100 feet long, and was commenced in 1620 at the foot of the Tower called Puerto, one of the principal fortifications of Gibraltar at that time, and was completed under the directions of Philip IV. in 1660. At the time of the Great Siege it had a circular battery for heavy metal at the Mole head. Ragged Staff Wharf-For disembarking stores for the Garrison, shot, powder, &c.; landing place for her Majesty's vessels, yachts, the Garrison, and for pas- sengers by P. and O. steamers. The Old Mole-On which is the Devil's Tongue Battery. It is 700 feet long and was commenced in 1309, after the capture of Gibraltar from the Moors, to enclose the dockyard for the shelter of shipping and the defence of the port, with a strong tower to prevent the approach of the enemy's vessels. This tower was blown up when the Rock was taken by the English in 1704, when, although the New Mole and fort was first taken, the greatest force was direeted against the Old Mole. Seven launches were destroyed and 300 officers and mem were killed or wounded by the explosion. 60 Waterport Wharf-General landing place from ships in the Bay and for pas- sengers by the steamers plying to Algeciras; also for merchandize. Bayside Jetty-For building materials and heavy goods. Watering Jetty, North Front-For watering ships from the tanks of the Sani- tary Commissioners. The North Front, as the sandy isthmus is called which separates the Rock from the main land, or rather that part of it which belongs to Great Britain, and which forms our advanced posts. Beyond that again is the neutral ground, and then the Spanish. lines. The North Front is reached from the Landport and Waterport Gates by the highway into Spain, which is a causeway with the sea on the left, and an artificial inundation on the right formed, in 1705, from a morass which bounded the foot of the Rock. It covers nine acres in extent, and is intersected by eight transverse ditches, 12 feet deep and a strong palisade; the water is from four to six feet deep. On the North Front are the race-stand and premises, the cricket pavilions, the cemeteries, the commissariat cattle-sheds and slaughter-houses, the laundry, the kennels of the Calpe Hunt, the rifle-ranges, hutments for the accommodation of detachments during the musketry season, some few small dwellings inhabited by soldiers, many stores and yards, and chief among them a large timber and marble yard and saw mill, established by Messrs. Bland, who also manufacture the arti- ficial ice with which the Garrison is supplied. This establishment is a very great boon to Gibraltar, and the inhabitants render grateful thanks for the enterprize which has procured for them a most bountiful supply of this luxury, a necessity indeed during the heat of summer, and at a very reasonable rate; the more so as previously to the establishment of this local emporium, the supplies from Cadiz and other places were very intermittent and uncertain, and usually failed at times of the greatest need. Aerated waters of the best description are also manufac- tured at this establishment. A great deal of stone for building purposes and paving uses in the town is taken from the Rock, in quarries near the Devil's Tower, the limestone there being of a particularly good and close quality, care being taken that the stone is cut away so as to add, by scarping, to the impregnability of the Rock. The Devil's tower is situated on a platform of Rock near these quarries, and is one of two towers which were originally on the North Front; the other, the Mill Tower, near the Western Beach, was destroyed by the fire from the Rock during the siege, being 1,100 yards from the Grand Battery. It was evidently a frontier look-out; the original terminal line of the territory 61 of Gibraltar was just outside the Bayside Barrier, and so along the North of the present road thence to the Eastern Beach; hence this tower was an advanced post or guard station, and doubtless was also used as a beacon and marine signal post or outlook. It was built long before the English occupation, and on the site of an old Moorish tower, most probably by the Genoese, for it is probable that the term Devil's Tower has arisen from some Italian designation indicating its position, referring to " dividing," relative to a boundary or frontier line. There was probably a kind of "enceinte continué" extending from the Eastern to the Western Beach, and the tower might well be required for an outlook, although this opinion has been combated on account of the near neighbourhood of the Rock, so elevated for observation; but very often nothing can be discovered from the top owing to mist and cloud. An instance of this occurred only a few years. ago when a serious invasion of our waters was seen from Catalan Bay but not from the Signal Station. The view of the Rock behind the Tower is magnificently grand, rising, as it does, in perpendicular steeps to a height of 1,400 feet, every point and angle sharply defined in the solid, grey limestone, while about two- thirds of the way towards the summit can be seen the embrasures marking the position of St. George's Hall, at the end of the upper Galleries, which seems to be dangerously placed on a slender pinnacle which it appears almost to overhang. On the North Front also take place the reviews of the troops, the weekly field days and the grand parade on Her Majesty's birthday, when the spectacle is very striking. The first gun of the Royal Salute is fired from the Rock Gun, when the smoke curling upwards in the still air assumes the shape of a Royal Crown (of course), and then the Salute goes down the mountain by the Galleries to Willis' Battery, and afterwards is taken up by the troops on parade. On the shore of the Bay are many ship-building establishments and a large metal foundry, where all required repairs to machinery or iron vessels are well and promptly performed, also a jetty where ships obtain fresh water; and close to our advanced line of sentries are the engine houses of the Sanitary Commissioners where the water from their wells is pumped into the town in ample quantities for all pur- poses, although, most unfortunately, the quality leaves much to be desired. Before the discovery of these deposits of water the inhabitants had only the rain- fall during the winter months to depend on-a most fluctuating source. The North Front is a very great source of comfo:t and relief to the inhabitants of Gibraltar during the summer months. Open on one side to the Mediterranean and on the other to the Bay, every breath of air which blows must cross it, and, in consequence, the eastern beach, as it is called, on the shore of the sea, is a general afternoon resort, where may be seen every sort and variety of basket and pony carriage which serve to take the ladies and troops of children to enjoy the fresh air on the beach, the former employed with their work or books, and the 1 62 latter with the wooden spade and bucket of the regulation pattern for children at the sea-side. From this the eastern beach is known commonly by the name of Margate. A raised esplanade with its band stand has lately been built along the road, as one of the improvements to the North Front. Trees have been planted and walks formed along the main road, and gardens bordering it on both sides have been carefully laid out and planted, and are tended with the greatest care to beautify and ornament this open space for exercise and recreation, and which may be called "the Lungs of the Rock." The whole of the improvements in this part, as in so many other matters during his Government, are due to Lord Napier of Magdàla, who assumed the Government of this Fortress in 1876, and by a happy junction of forces on the part of the Military and Colonial Departments, and the Sanitary Commissioners, his suggestions were carried out with the great- est success, and to the very great advantage of the Gibraltar public. Catalan Bay. A small fishing village at the back of the Rock, in a small sandy bay, to which there is a good road from the North Front Quarries. It is inhabited chiefly by the descendants of Genoese fishermen, and there is also a detachment of soldiers from one of the regiments in the town always quartered there, in a small and convenient barrack; at the back of which is a small Roman Catholic Church. The village is well worth a visit, as the Rock nowhere looks more grand and imposing than the steeps which rise almost perpendicularly behind it. These occasionally remind the villagers of their close proximity in a manner no less practical than dangerous, by tumbling big stones down upon their dwellings, which has sometimes occasioned not a few disasters. During the French invasion many of the inhabitants of San Roque who had sought refuge at Catalan Bay, were victims of a large fall of stone from the cliffs. In 1870 there was a very large landslip, but fortunately on the road near the North Front, so the village escaped; the road was however destroyed, but as the fall happened in the night no lives were lost. In the flood of November, 1875, the little church was completely gutted by the torrent of sand and stones washed from the rocks above, and some of the out-buildings of the barracks were buried, but there were no casualties. The village passed, a path over the sand leads to the next bay (Sandy Bay), from which no further progress can be made. Bay of Gibraltar and Straits. The Bay is nearly eight miles long and more than five broad. The depth in the centre is 110 fathoms, and the tide rises about four feet. In the English part of the waters is the mercantile anchorage, and here are moored the old hulks. 63 for storing coal and other supplies, perhaps equally heating, although not so ne cessary, presided over as late as 1883, when she was sold and broken up and the Guard Station transferred to the Old Mole head, by the Colonial guardship Samarang," an old man-of-war said to have been one of the fleet at the battle of Copenhagen, and in her time considered rather a crack vessel; but tempora mutantur indeed. Captain Marryat, the Naval novelist, is believed to have served in this old vessel. On board her were quarters for the Captain of the Port, the boarding officers, who give pratique to vessels, and the marine police, who, in swift steam launches, patrol the waters after nightfall and "move on " suspicious. loiterers of faluchos and small boats. Among the old hulks was, some years since, the Spanish ship "San Juan," taken at the Battle of Trafalgar, the cabin being shut up as a mark of respect to the memory of the brave Captain Churraca, who, mortally wounded in the battle, died in it. The question of the extent of maritime jurisdiction over the neighbouring waters between England and Spain is no less vexatious and unsettled than that of territorial jurisdiction, Spain maintaining a rigid vigilance over the seaboard in the neighbourhood of the Rock, and revenue boats are constantly on the alert. The captures made by these revenue cruisers are not however confined to smug- gling craft alone. By an unjust and untenable assumption Spain claims the right of jurisdiction over the waters of the Straits within her shores, and she asserts her right to board any vessel under 200 tons that sails within that distance of her coasts. As the Straits are on an average about twelve, and in some places but eight miles in breadth, Spain thus claims the right over more than half these waters, and virtually commands the navigation of the Gut.-(Sayer). The waters of the Bay feel sensibly the strong current setting in through the Straits from the Atlantic at the rate of two and a half miles per hour, which is perceptible 150 miles down to Cape de Gatt. Some have supposed the existence of an under current of denser water which sets outwards and relieves the Mediterranean from this accession of water, in addition to all the contributions of the rivers from the Ebro to the Nile in a coast circuit of 4,500 leagues; as a confirmation of this a Dutch merchant ship, sunk by one broadside. of a French privateer in the middle of the Gut, was cast ashore a few days after, with her cargo of brandy and oil, near to Tangier, twelve miles to the Westward of where she went down; also it has been calculated by Dr. Halley that the evaporation by the sun and by hot drying winds is almost equal to the supply of water; yet, on the whole, the level of the sea remains unchanged, for Nature's exquisite system of compensation knows no waste. The strength of this current renders impossible any reliable soundings in the principal channel through the Straits; but between Gibraltar and Ceuta soundings 64 have been made to the extraordinary depth of 950 fathoms, where a gravelly bottom was found, with broken shells: it may be observed that although the general colour of the waters is the deepest ultramarine, with a singular phos- phorescent luminosity produced by the myriads of infusoria, a green tint indicates soundings, and a deep indigo blue profound depth. The anchorage in the Bay is not very good, and it is much exposed to the South-West winds, which sweep up and down through the funnel of the Straits (twelve leagues in length), while the East wind or Levanter blows in terrible gusts across the waters, raising genuine water spouts, which are whirled along with great violence till they break and disperse. Ayala says, "There are certain conditions by which the duration or change of "the wind may be guessed at with tolerable certainty. When a calm takes place "and the atmosphere is serene the following are signs of an approaching East "wind: a sensible humidity in the air; a pricking in wounds and old sores; "chronic pains returning, and a melancholy and lassitude felt even by the healthy." The East wind will continue at least during the following day, if a cloud, like spreading feathers is observed to pass over the middle of the mountain to the Westward. The sure and agreeable prognostics of a West wind, are the clouds clearing from the coast, the atmosphere beginning to feel dry, valetudinarians feeling better, and the healthy more vigorous. While the Straits continue cloudy in winter, showers from the South-West may be expected; if they clear away it is an indication of a North or North-West wind, fresh and agreeable, and sometimes extremely cold. In the winter due North and South winds last but a short time; the former soon becomes a West wind, and the latter is the precursor of a Levanter, which sometimes continues many days inundating the country with rain. The winds between North-East and South-East are termed Levant winds; those from North-West to South-West West winds; for whatever may be the others outside the Straits on approaching these they assume the characters above mentioned. The East wind, El Levante, is the tyrant of the Straits, while the West wind, El Poniente, is their liberator.-(Ayala). In Montero's history is recounted a curious anecdote which will not be out of place here; the instance occurring after the action of Admiral Saumarez in the Bay, in July, 1801, when the "Hannibal" ran ashore under the guns of the Green Island at Algeciras and had to surrender. A French fleet of four ships under Admiral Linois which had been pursued by the English Admiral, being 65 reinforced by six Spanish vessels under General Moreno and four French ships under Admiral Dumanoir pursued its course to the Westward, when a swift frigate was sent after them from Gibraltar, which reaching the rearmost vessels at the mouth of the Straits, the night being extremely dark, ran between the Spanish ships "Real Carlos" and "San Hermenegildo " and discharging her broadsides at both vessels, passed swiftly on. The two Spanish vessels immediately com- menced action one against the other, and the mistake was only discovered when both were in flames (no distinguishing signals having been arranged by the Admiral). The conflagration could not be arrested and both ships blew up, with the loss of 2,600 men, a greater number than were lost at Trafalgar. A curious relic of old times was discovered in 1884 on the opposite shore of the Straits, under Ape's Hill, in the shape of the remains of a 74 gun English frigate, the "Courageux," which was taken from the French in 1761 off Lisbon and being driven out of Gibraltar in a heavy gale was lost on the opposite coast in December, 1796, with a large portion of her crew. The divers of Messrs. Bland and of Mr. Fortunato of Gibraltar, who were engaged, found her guns lying in almost regular order at the bottom, and several of them, very hand- some brass guns of different size and a mortar, all of French manufacture, were raised and brought to Gibraltar. Fortifications. The fortifications in Gibraltar are amongst the most formidable in the universe, and the value of the Rock to England-doubly so since the introduction of steam into the navies of the world, and hence the necessity of protected coaling stations has induced the Government to maintain the defences in such a state of formid- able perfection as to render the fortress impregnable, and any attack futile. In the times when the bow and arrow, the battering ram and the catapult were the most destructive engines of war that man's ingenuity could invent, its walls and heights withstood successfully the desperate onslaughts of barbarian hordes, and treachery alone opened its gates. In later days when war had become a science, and artillery, with its still unknown power, had thrust aside the rude inventions of our forefathers and established a new system in the art of strategy, this impregnable Rock mocked the united efforts of two great nations to subdue it, though every hostile resource that the skill of the besiegers could devise was employed against it. Ayala, whose history closes in 1780 when the hostilities between Great Britain and Spain had assumed an active character, says: "In the "meantime we may hope that the result of this undertaking against a place so "strongly fortified, but attacked by such powerful forces, may correspond to the "justice of the cause, to the intelligence and activity of the Duke de Crillon, and + 1. 9 66 "to the well known valour of the Spanish troops." He was, however, doomed to disappointment by the result. The natural advantages of the Rock as a fortress are so great, that in 1309 when it was first taken from the Moors by Alonzo de Guzman, the Castilian King, Fernando IV., who hastened personally to take possession of it, on entering it and observing its strength and the peculiarity of its situation, with uplifted hands he gave thanks to Providence for the reduction under his dominion of a Rock and Castle, so important and almost impregnable. When to these conditions. are added the works erected under the most skilled masters of military science in succeeding generations, and which are even now being supplemented by all means necessary for modern requirements the word "impregnable" may truly be fitly employed. On the capture of the Rock by the English in 1701 the fortifications seems to have been as follows :- At the North-end (Willis') the Battery of San Joaquin and the Bastion of San José; at the Landport a covered way and the Fort of San Pablo joining the curtain of the Old Mole which was protected by the Tower of Leandro; then followed the Atarazana or arsenal which anciently formed part of the Castle and then came the old wall which ran along the front to Charles V. Wall, which in two divisions ran up the mountain to the Hacho (Signal Station) where there was a small tower. Between Charles V. Wall and the New Mole were three bastions, Santa Cruz, Nuestra Señora de Rosario and another where Flat Bastion Magazine is now, and a half moon battery on the Red Sands called Bateria de los Reyes. The defence of the New Mole was the Tower of Puerto, now Dockyard Fort, one of the principal fortifications of the place. We do no read of any fortifications further South than this fort, as the Rocks from thence to the East side formed natural defences, except the Old Moorish Tower commanding Europa Point and the Bay beyond. The present fortifications, which are not constructed on any particular system, may be classed under four heads :- 1st. A sea wall, with its system of curtains, flanks, and bastions, extending at broken intervals round the Western base of the Rock with a breakwater to keep off boats and detain them under fire, extending from the New to the Old Mole. This breakwater was commenced in 1846. 2d. Retired batteries, armed with the heaviest ordnance, in commanding posi- tions, but scarcely discernible from the sea, and comparatively safe from the fire of shipping. 3d. The Galleries, excavated out of the solid rock on the north and north-west faces of the mountain, the heavy ordnance in which commands the North Front, neutral ground, part of the Bay and the once formidable lines. 67 4th. Rock casemates and detached casemated batteries, many of them shielded with heavy iron. His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales laid the foundation of the Alexandra Battery, New Mole, in 1876, and in 1859 of one at the Sandpits. Every spot from whence a gun can be brought to bear is occupied by cannon, which oftentimes quaintly peep out of the most secluded nooks, among geraniums and flowering plants, while huge piles of shot and shell, some of enormous size, are stowed away in convenient places screened from an enemy's fire, but all ready for use. At the end of the Great Siege the tiers of batteries and the fortifications generally were, as may be supposed, considerably damaged or thrown down; the town also being little better than a great ruin, the inhabitants being sheltered in caves or under canvas. The work of restoration, therefore, was both extensive and pressing, and this depended in a great part on the company of the Royal Sappers and Miners, who had been formed originally into a military organization on the Rock in 1772, the officers being unable to place any reliance on civil artificers. They were then a total of all ranks of 234, and had done the greatest service during the siege. As an instance of this it may be noted that after the failure of the attack with the battering ships, great repairs were necessary to the Orange Bastion, and in spite of the enemy firing from 800 to 1,000 shot every twenty-four hours, they re-built the whole flank of the Bastion, 120 feet, with solid masonry; a fact scarcely paralleled in any siege. Every encouragement was given to them to work well and assiduously, and no men could have rendered services more in keeping, the works progressing with the greatest diligence. One amusing instance of the indulgencies shown them-they being also struck off all guards, fatigues, and Garrison duties-is related. General O'Hara, to mark his sense of their services, gave them permission to pass to the Neutral Ground and out of Garrison on Sundays and holidays without a written pass or any restraint, even as to dress. It was not uncommon, therefore, for the N.C. Officers and respect- able portion of the privates to stroll about the Garrison or ramble into Spain, dressed in black silk or satin breeches, white silk stockings, and silver knee or shoe buckles, drab beaver hats and scarlet jackets tastefully trimmed with white kerseymere. The Sergeant-Major of the company, Ince, was the original proposer of the Galleries, and carried out their execution. He was promoted Lieutenant in the Royal Garrison Battalion. Two boys of the Soldier Artificers' Company are spoken of very highly as being remarkable for their quick sight, they were employed to be with the work- ing parties and warn the men when the enemy was firing in their direction. It is said that one of them, in the Princess Amelia battery, had been reproving the 68 men for their carelessness in not attending to him, and had just turned his head towards the enemy when he observed the shot coming which had so terrible an effect (see "Batteries.") He (Richmond), as well as two other boys (Brand and Parsons) were possessed of such uncommon quickness of sight as to see the enemy's shot almost immediately after they quitted the gun, and by their vigilance they were the means of saving many valuable lives. Richmond was known by the name of Shell and Brand of Shot. They both died in the West Indies of yellow fever, both Second Lieutenants in the Royal Engineers. The model of Gibraltar, which was destroyed at Woolwich by fire in 1802, and those of the King's Bastion, in polished stone, and of the North Front, which are now at the Rotunda at Woolwich, were the work of these youths, and for which they obtained their commissions. There is a beautiful and exact model of the Rock, in Gibraltar, on a scale of fifty feet to an inch, formed by successive layers of contours, from the survey of Lieutenant Warren, R.E., completed by Sergeant Turnbull and Sappers Williams and McLellan, R.E., in 1865. It was formerly in the Garrison Library, but being now removed to one of the military offices, and therefore not in a convenient situation for exhibition, it is not generally shown to visitors. Batteries, Artillery, &c., WITH ANECDOTES OF OCCURRENCES DURING THE SIEGES, CHIEFLY IN CONNECTION THEREWITH. For Artillery purposes the Rock is divided into eight districts: 1. The Upper, comprising the Rock Gun and Signal Station. 2. North. 3. Lower Lines. 4. Town. 5. Waterport. 6. Rosia. 7. Windmill Hill. 8. Europa. Each of these districts is in charge of a separate Battery of Artillery, except the last two, of which one Battery takes charge, and a Master-Gunner is attached to each district. The batteries on the Old Mole so annoyed the Spanish approaches during the siege, that it was christened by them the "Lengua del Diablo," which latter name is retained by the Sandy Spit near the end of the Mole being still called the Devil's Tongue. 69 Another suggestion, which is not very complimentary to the fair sex, has been made by some commentators, who contend that the name is derived from the wicked scandal supposed to be talked at the Ladies' Bathing Sheds, established near there; but there is no doubt the older derivation is the correct one. The defence from the Grand Battery and covering works is so formidable that the ap- proach was christened "Boca del Fuego" (the mouth of fire). The King's Bastion played an important part in beating off the attacks of the Spanish gun and mortar boats in 1781; it has been re-modelled since then. It is erected on the site of a Bastion first built there in 1575, in constructing which a part of the intervening curtain was removed. In this curtain was a gate of Moorish Architecture of great antiquity, called the Algeciras Gate, solidly built and adorned with rich Arabesque workmanship, among which was conspicuous the "Key," a sure proof of the sentiments of the Moors as to the importance of the Mountain and City of Gibraltar. General Boyd, who so gallantly con- ducted the defence of the Old Bastion, laid the foundation stone of the present one, and now lies in it, his tomb being in the salient of the work. To carry on the work with vigour an opening was made in the sea line which, for the time, rendered the fortress defenceless at that point. A similar opening had been made some years before by a storm, which, being observed by the Duc de Crillon, who commanded at San Roque, he proposed a scheme for an attempt on the Rock. Remembering this, General Boyd always kept an anxious eye upon the gap, but he concealed his fears and would not post any additional guards or picquets there to attract attention, but gave private orders that all the guns and howitzers that could be brought into position on that point, should be so placed. He, how- ever, did not conceal his uneasiness from the Secretary of State, and in urging upon Lord Rochford the necessity of means being furnished for completing the Bastion, he remarked: "There is an idea of glory, My Lord, in the thought of "being killed in defending a breach made by the enemy, but to be knocked o' th' "head in the defence of one of our own making would be a ridiculous death." All the Old Line Wall has been re-modelled, and portions showing the old shot-marks may be seen in rear of the Prince Albert's Front, where the old Zoca Flank and Sally Port from the Commercial Square may still be seen. The old walls are also to be seen at Ragged Staff and Rosia Bay, in rear of the more modern ones. The new Line Wall is in great part a series of splendid casemates, affording comfortable Barracks to the troops who would have to man the works. The districts at the North end of the town still retain traces of the siege of more than a century ago, in anecdotes which have been handed on from gunner to gunner. is 70 1 Thus the Rock Mortar, the highest piece of ordnance on the Rock, is said to have been several times dismounted by the Spanish fire. Just below is the Rock Gun Battery, originally built and armed before there was any road made to it. The Artillery being too impatient to have a gun mounted on the summit of the Rock to wait until the new road was finished, they accordingly determined to drag a twenty-four pounder up the steep, craggy face and, in a few days, with great difficulty and prodigious exertions they were so successful as to get it to the top. This battery played a very important part during the siege, from its very commanding position. From it the first gun is fired of the Royal Salute on Her Majesty's birthday. The Willis' Batteries are a perfect network of defences commanding the Spanish lines and neutral ground. On them fell the brunt of the fire from the Spanish batteries. A story is still told by the Gunners in charge there, of how a shot entered one of the embrasures in the Princess Amelia Battery, and striking four men, cut off seven legs among them. (Drinkwater also alludes to it). In the Church Battery a shell fell and burst on the 22d May and one of the splinters flying for more than 200 yards, struck the apron which covered the touch-hole of the morning gun, on the South Bastion, exploded the priming and fired the gun. In the Union Galleries, leading from the Castle to Willis', a lamentable acci- dent happened in 1830. Experimental practice was being carried on to show the effect of grape shot on the Inundation and road to Bay Side Barrier. A gun was pointed at the target, and the detachment went to the next embrasure, where there was no gun, to see the effect of their shot. The gun was fired, and some burning pieces of wad must have blown back, and somehow ignited the contents of a portable magazine near. The men, with the exception of the one who fired and the one who gave the order to fire, were blown out of the embrasure by the explosion of the portable, on to the Lower Lines and Inundation, fourteen Gun- ners being killed. To increase the vertical fire during the siege, guns sunk in the sand, and then secured with timber at different degrees of elevation, were employed both by the English and Spaniards; thus five 32 pounders were thus employed behind the Old Mole. For the purpose of firing a gun at a great depression into the besiegers' lines a gun carriage was invented by Lieutenant Koehler, R.A., which was found most effective, as out of thirty shots fired at one time, twenty-eight were sent into one traverse in a Spanish battery, 1,400 yards distant. A gun at a great depression may be seen in the back ground of Sir Joshua Reynolds' picture of General Eliott at the Convent. 71 As described by Drinkwater, the gun was fixed on a bed of timber, the under side of which was a plane parallel to the axis of the piece; from this bed im mediately under the centre of gravity projected a spindle eight inches in diameter, and on the axis of this spindle the bed and gun could move round. Thus the gun could be loaded in safety under cover of the merlon by being turned round to lie horizontally across the carriage. It could be depressed to 20° by a common quoin, and by a special arrangement to any number of degrees above 20° and under 70°. To annoy the enemy and alarm the working parties large stones were used, cut to fit the calibre of a 13 inch mortar; a small hole was drilled in the centre, filled with sufficient powder, and they were fired with short fuses, to burst in the trenches. Many of these stone shell are still in the Garrison. • The great length of range and the deep loose sand on which the Spanish lines were thrown up neutralized the effect of the shells as they buried themselves so deeply as to explode without damage. Captain Mercier, 39th Regiment, obviated this evil by suggesting that 54-inch shells with short calculated fuzes should be fired from guns, and this proved most satisfactory. It is the first instance of horizontal firing with shells and calculated fuzes on record. In order to protect the Gunners as much as possible unserviceable guns were laid across the top of the embrasures in many of the works; there being no bomb-proof cover or Gibraltar shields in those days. In 1771 an experiment was made with a pierrier, or stone mortar, cut out of the solid rock with a view of being used against boat attacks, or an attempt to land. It is fully described in Grose's Military Antiquities, App. 20. The in- ventor was named Healy, and Healy's Mortar may still be seen in perfect condition on the road near the Queen's Gate. The rock is 200 yards above the level of the sea, and 400 yards horizontal distance from the Line Wall. Its construction is thus described a plain surface of 45° elevation was first formed; then a centre hole was bored four feet deep, perpendicular to the surface; from the centre a circle was described three feet diameter; holes were then bored all round the circle inclining to the centre, and the partitions between them being cut away, a core of a conical figure was extracted, and the inside chipped and polished until it formed a true parabola. It was first loaded with twenty-seven pounds of powder and 1,470 paving stones and fired by a hollow cane in the centre conveying the fire to a quick-match placed in a copper tube to the charge; about a quarter part of the stones fell over the Line Wall. It was fired a second time with the same success, and a third time with half the quantity of powder and 1,220 stones, when about 200 passed over the Line Wall. It was considered that such fixed weapons might be useful for the defence of a pass or mouth of a harbour, Among other anecdotes of the siege we find the following :- 72 A shell falling in Southport Street blew an old Genoese woman out of the window but did not hurt her beyond bruises. November 24th.-Four Portuguese who had been privately despatched by the Governor to fetch a packet of despatches from Faro returned safe; they had a small boat which was carried on camels over rocks and mountains being permitted by the Moors. They landed it in a creek under Ape's Hill and stole over in the night. During the blockade of the Bay, the "Buck," English privateer, Captain Fag commanding, succeeded in getting in to Gibraltar. At the entrance to the Straits Captain Fag met with three English cutters. The Captain of one of them endea- voured to dissuade him from an attempt to get into Gibraltar, saying that it was impossible. Captain Fag jocosely asked if there was room for a coach and six to get in, and being answered in the affirmative he rolled his quid two or three times and with an audible oath swore he would get in if Beelzebub himself gave chase. A soldier rambling about the town found in the ruins of a house several watches and articles of value, which he carried off, but as every soldier was examined on his return to his bombproof he resolved on a singular expedient to secure his prize. Taking out the wad which served as a tompion to a gun in the King's Bastion, he lodged his booty, tied up in a handkerchief, as far as he could reach within the gun, and then returned the wad to its place. Unfortunately while he was fast asleep the gunboats attacked the town, and this richly loaded gun was one of the first discharged, and with it disappeared all the riches which had been so badly invested. A soldier was killed in the hospital under particularly painful circumstances. Having accidentally broken his thigh he was helpless in bed, when a shell from the mortar boats fell into the ward, and rebounding lodged upon him. The con- valescent and sick in the same room instantly found strength to crawl out on their hands and knees while the fuse was burning; but this unfortunate man was kept down in his bed by the weight of the shell which, exploding, took off both his legs and scorched him in a fearful manner. His last words were expressive of regret that he had not been killed in the batteries. An extraordinary case of a wonderful recovery from fearful injuries occurred to a soldier of the 73d, who was knocked down by the wind of a shell which killed his comrade, and when it burst mangled him in a most dreadful manner. His head was terribly fractured, his left arm broken in two places, one of his legs shattered, the skin and muscles torn off part of his right hand, the middle finger broken to pieces, and his whole body most severely bruised and scorched. He was trepanned the same evening; a few days after the leg was amputated and the 73 other wounds and fractures dressed, and his constitution was so good and nature so powerful that in eleven weeks his cure was completely effected. An extraordinary instance of gallantry and presence of mind occurred at the laboratory adjoining the South Bastion. An Artilleryman (named Hartley) was employed in filling shells with carcass composition and driving fuses into shells one of them by some unaccountable accident took fire in the operation, and al- though he was surrounded with unfixed fuses, loaded shells, composition, &c., with the most astonishing coolness he carried out the lighted shell and threw it where it could do little or no harm; and two seconds had scarcely elapsed before it exploded. If the shell had burst in the laboratory it is almost certain the whole would have been blown up, when the loss in fixed ammunition, fuses, &c., would have been irreparable, exclusive of the damage which the fortifications would have suffered from the explosion and the lives that might have been lost. During the grand attack the furnaces for heating the shot were found to be too few and huge fires were kindled in convenient corners of the streets: these red- hot messengers were found by the enemy a specific decidedly inimical to the con- stitution of the battering ships, and it cannot be said they were administered in homœopathie doses, as 2,000 of them were fired in the first two hours. Alto- gether upwards of 8,000 shot and 716 barrels of powder were fired by the Gar- rison during this attack. ; On the 13th July a soldier of the 73d Regiment declared himself a prophet, and prophesied that within six weeks and six days and six hours the Garrison would be taken and the Governor killed. He was taken to the provost ship there to await the expiration of the time, and then be flogged-no doubt a very effectual way for curing the gift of prophecy-for in those days the punishments were most severe and sentences of the most terrible kind nearly always carried out, justice. being then very little tempered with mercy-for desertion, death by shooting; for robbery, the same by being hanged; while lesser offences were punished with 200, 500, 1,000, and even as many as 1,500 lashes. As an instance of the severity of punishments it is told that during the siege of 1727 a conspiracy having been de- tected among some Moors and Jews in the Garrison to seize upon the Gates and open them to the Spaniards, two of the Moors, the chief agents, were put to death and afterwards flayed, their skins were then nailed to the Gates of the town unti they were cut away in pieces by curious people, to be sent to England. Great misery was caused during the siege by the constant attacks of the gun- boats. In a "C Lady's Journal of the Siege" she mentions how she was driven night after night from place to place, until at length she was compelled to sleep with her children behind the rocks at Europa. Even here she was not safe; one night a round shot struck the stone beneath which she was crouching. The scurvy attained a terrible virulence during the siege, and swept before it 10 74 into destruction ten times more lives than fell from the fire of the enemy. On 11th October, 1780, during a heavy fog, a Dutch dogger was taken by the boats of the British squadron, part of a large Dutch convoy, and carried safely into the Bay. By an almost miraculous stroke of fortune she was laden with lemons and oranges, a freight more valuable at the time than tons of powder. They were immediately served out to the craving sick, and in a few days the salutary effects were apparent, and men who had been hopeless cripples hanging to their crutches returned to duty restored and invigorated. During the extreme scarcity of provisions, a singular mode of hatching chickens was practised by the Hanoverians. The eggs were placed with some cottonwool, or other warm substance in a tin case of such construction as to be heated either by a lamp or hot water; and, by a proper attention to the temperature of heat, the eggs were commonly hatched in the usual time of a hen's sitting. A capon was then taught to rear them: the feathers were plucked from his breast and belly; he was then scourged with a bunch of nettles, and placed upon the young hatch, whose downy warmth afforded such comfort to the bare and smarting parts that he from that period reared them up with equal care and tenderness as though they had been his own offspring. ■ At the time of the relief by Admiral Rodney no fresh meat remained, with the exception of an old cow which was reserved for the sick; a goose sold for £2 and a turkey for £4. A death occurred from actual famine; the fatal incident aroused the people to a sense of the horrors of their future. Wild vegetables kept life in numbers of enfeebled bodies, and the emaciated aspect of others was appalling. Bread was so scarce that the daily rations were served out under protection of a guard, and the weak, the aged and the infirm, who could not struggle against the hungry, impetuous crowd that thronged the doors of the bakeries often returned to their miserable homes robbed of their share. During the destruction of the Spanish batteries at the sortie, General Eliott, most careful that none of the wounded should perish in the flames, went into the works himself to look round, and there found a Captain of the Spanish Artillery dreadfully wounded. He ordered him to be removed to a place of safety, but the Spaniard exclaimed, "No, Sir, no; leave me, and let me perish amid the ruins of "my post!" In a few minutes he expired. (The incident is to be seen depicted in engravings in the Convent corridor and in the Garrison Library.) It was afterwards found that he had commanded the guard of one of the batteries, and that when his men fled he rushed forward into the attacking column, exclaiming, "At least one Spaniard shall die honourably !" and fell at the foot of his post. Two Spanish officers were taken prisoners at the sortie, one, the Baron Von Helmstadt, dangerously wounded in the knee. He died of inflammatory fever after amputation of the leg, to which he was persuaded to consent by the Governor, 75 + as he had before refused, affirming that he was betrothed to a lady to whom he would never offer himself with a mutilated limb, but on the Governor's repre- sentations that his affianced bride would receive him with the more affection for his having gained an honourable wound, he consented to the operation. The private relations between the opposing commanders were as courteous as should be the case between all brave men. On one occasion the Duc de Crillon forwarded some letters which had been brought by the Comte d'Artois for some officers of the Garrison and on his own behalf added a present of fruit, vegetables, game, and ice for General Eliott, who replied with sincerest thanks, but begged to decline all such for the future as by accepting them he had broken through his rule never to receive anything for his private use but to share both plenty and scareity in common with the lowest of his brave fellow-soldiers. When the battering ships were first proved for the attack it was found there was a deficiency of water for preventing the effect of red-hot balls. It was, how- ever, thought lightly of, Don Cayetan Langara pleasantly saying "he would receive "in his breast all the red-hot shot of the enemy." The preparations for this attack were so stupendous that it is stated 1,200 pieces of heavy ordnance were ready for use in the Spanish Artillery park, enor- mous quantities of ammunition and warlike stores were in the magazines, and the reserve of gunpowder alone was reported at 83,000 barrels. Brigadier Curtis was in his pinnace saving officers and men from the burning battering ships, when at the very moment he ran alongside one of the largest it blew up, covering the sea with wreck. A large baulk of timber fell through the floor of the boat, killing the coxswain, wounding other men and starting a large hole in her bottom. Little hope was left of reaching the shore, but the sailors' jackets being stuffed into the aperture the hole was plugged and the gallant men got safe to land. In Spain, King Charles, whose temper was usually so sedate, shared the general ardour and exhibited such eagerness for the success of the enterprise that his first question in the morning was "Is it taken ?" and to the negative he never failed to reply, "It will soon be ours.” In Paris the intelligence of the failure of the great attack was no less unexpected than unwelcome; so certain had the fall of Gibraltar been considered that a drama illustrative of its destruction by the floating batteries was acted nightly to applaud- ing thousands. Sergeant Ince, who superintended the excavation of the Galleries, was appointed in 1796 an Ensign in the Royal Garrison Battalion. One day Mr. Înce was trotting at an easy pace up the Rock to his farm when the Duke of Kent over- taking him observed, "That horse, Mr. Ince, is too old for you." "I like to 76 * " "ride easy, your Royal Highness," was the Subaltern's meek reply. "Right, "but you shall have another more in keeping with your worth and your duties, and soon afterwards the Duke presented him with a valuable steed. The old Overseer, however, was unable to manage the animal, and he rode again to the works in his own quiet way. The Duke, meeting him soon after enquired why he was not riding the new horse, and on being told, and being prayed to take the horse back into his stud again, rejoined, "No, no, Overseer; if you can't ride "him easily, put him in your pocket." The Overseer readily understood and exchanged the beautiful steed for his worth in doubloons. The Spanish Admiral Don Juan de Langara, who was in command of the blockading squadron, was taken prisoner by Admiral Darby, when proceeding to the relief of Gibraltar in the early part of 1781, in an action off Cape St. Vincent, when four Spanish line of battle ships were taken. Don Juan was a prisoner in Gibraltar for some time, and on one occasion, on paying a visit to Admiral Digby on board his flag ship, he was presented to Prince William Henry, afterwards William IV., who was a Midshipman on board. The Prince left the cabin, after some conversation, and when the Admiral was leaving the Royal Midshipman respectfully announced that the boat was ready of which he was in charge, at which the Spanish Admiral astonished, exclaimed, "Well does Great Britain "deserve to possess the Empire of the Seas, when her Princes do not disdain to occupy the most humble appointments in her Navy !" 66 THE CALPE HUNT. THIS is the great institution of Gibraltar, and the reason can be easily understood when the few opportunities for exercise and out-door amusement on the Rock itself are taken into consideration. The noble sport of fox-hunting, so dear to Englishmen, is here maintained in its fullest integrity, and a large and well-con- ducted establishment at the North Front gives accommodation to the huntsman, hounds, and their attendants; the whips are invariably volunteers, officers of the garrison, and, as is mostly the case with volunteers, do their work right well and in a most self-denying manner. Thoroughly imbued with the importance of their position as regards the day's sport, they oftentimes cheerfully give up a chanee of the coming gallop to look after some laggard hound who will not leave the cover. The hunting is of course in Spain, in the neighbourhood of the Rock, the farthest meet being about fourteen miles, and comprises every sort of country except en- closures, for there is no jumping. Plough, cultivation, thick woods, thick coverts, and crags occur in their order, and the riding to a novice seems more than danger- ous; but this feeling soon wears off when he sees the ease and safety with which 77 the little coarse bred Spanish horses get over the ground, and also when he sees very many ladies riding safely and well to the front. The regular hunting season begins in November, as soon as possible after the first rains, but before then, if there has been any moisture, the cubs get a good rattling in the early mornings. In the early part of March the ground becomes too dry and hard to carry scent any longer, and the season ends with a cap for the huntsman, as it begins with one for the servants. Foxes are very plentiful but not straight- running as a rule, and from the nature of the country, which it is impossible to "stop" properly, "Who-hoop!-Gone to ground!" is the common result; not that kills are uncommon, for many brace are brought to hand during the season, some of them after excellent gallops. Coverts are becoming worse and more scarce every year; the Spaniards burn large tracts in the dry season, to clear and plant in the wet, and cultivation is taking the place of the surest "finds." At the instance of some of the landowners, the Spanish authorities occasionally contemplate revoking all permission to hunt in the neighbourhood, but they cannot be said to have any reasonable ground for complaint, as the Hunt has always liberally made good any damage done to sown lands or growing crops, and very often satisfies claims for damage which it has not done. To the damage bill the field-money is applied, and all claims are liberally dealt with and settled through the assistance of an arbitrator at San Roque. It is a pity that the taste for fox-hunting does not extend to the Spanish in- habitants in the neighbourhood, as this would wonderfully smooth the difficulties which occasionally crop up and threaten to spoil sport, and the members of the Hunt would gladly welcome the Spanish officers, gentry, and farmers joining in the sport in friendly rivalry; but in this neighbourhood it meets with little sym- pathy, and retains its exclusively national character, for the Spanish farmers cannot understand why so much expense is incurred and why so much fuss of men and horses is made about an animal which he can, and indeed very often does, get rid of by a pot shot; and therefore the same feeling remains as described by a local poet many years ago :- "The novel sight the Spanish hind amazes, And still he cries, 'Que locos los Ingleses !' not the first time nor the first place where "those mad English" has passed into a proverb. £ The hounds meet twice a week during the season, and it can easily be imagined how great is the relief to these cooped up on the Rock in a day's ride through beautiful scenery and with usually most lovely weather. The very ride to the meet is most exhilarating, as the highway to the greater part of the meets is the Spanish beach, with its gloriously fresh sea breezes. Everybody knows everybody else, while the presence of many of the fair sex gives grace and animation to the 78 ་ * scene. The pack, &c., is kept up by monthly subscription from each regiment and from each member of the staff, departments and civilians who join. Besides this there is a cap of half a dollar field-money, which goes to the damage fund, which averages about £100 a year, but sometimes the amount is larger. The origin of the Calpe Hunt is rather doubtful, there being no authentic nar- rative of its early history on record. It has been asserted, but totally without foundation, that the Calpe hounds are descended in a direct line from the Duke of Wellington's pack, with which the British army hunted during the winter months of the last years of the Peninsular war. So also the Isla de Leon Hunt Club, established by the British garrison of Cadiz, has claimed the honour of having supplied the nucleus round which the Calpe Hunt was formed. It certainly ap- pears from the only documents connected with the Cadiz Club still extant, that, on the breaking up of the garrison, the hounds were presented to the 29th Regiment, in joint ownership with the other regiments quartered on the Rock. The entry in the account and record book of the Isla de Leon Hunt is as follows: "C " April 29, 1814. "It was this day resolved by the remaining Members of the Real Isla de Leon Hunting Club that the hounds shall be offered to the officers of the 29th Regi- "ment who originally subscribed to them and to the officers composing the "Hunting Club now established at Gibraltar." The most reliable particulars as to the antecedents of the Hunt are those trea- sured up in the memories of the oldest inhabitants of the Rock, and they are as follows: In the early part of the present century the Rock swarmed with foxes, and two gentlemen, the Rev. Mr. Mackareth and Mr. Relph, both great sportsmen, used every endeavour to start a pack of foxhounds, and one couple was got out from England. With these two, "Rookwood" and "Ranter," several excellent runs. were obtained up the face of the Rock, notwithstanding the difficult nature of the country. The sport was so undeniable, and the coverts of the neighbourhood having become available by the departure of the French Army of observation, the expansion of the pack quickly followed. Messrs. Lowe, Atkinson, Hobbs, Sewell and others, civil residents in Gibraltar, brought out additional hounds at their own expense, and in 1814 a very respectable pack was established. There was no paid huntsman, and the duties devolved on Mr. Mackareth, a very keen sportman. The originators of the pack now constituted themselves into a club, called the "Civil Hunt," wearing a blue uniform, with silver buttons and the letters "C.H." The hounds were housed at San Roque, partly on account of the difficulty of obtaining suitable accommodation on the Rock, and partly because 79 : of they were nearer their work. At first the Hunt was entirely composed of civilians, Two officers of the but notice of meets was duly sent to the different messes. Garrison were regular attendants, Mr. Templer, Royal Artillery, and Mr. Alderson, It was Royal Engineers, both of them sons of masters of foxhounds at home. impossible, however, to resist the entreaties of the officers, and in 1814 many them became members. The Calpe Hunt was now in flourishing circumstances, the pack was numerous, the fields large and foxes plentiful, and last, but not by any means least, cultivation around was almost unknown. The meets were at- tended by officers of the San Roque and Algeciras garrisons, and a damage-bill had never been heard of. Towards the end of the same year the hunting received a temporary check. An epidemic fever, which had visited Gibraltar in 1813, again made its appearance, and the Spaniards put the Rock in quarantine and established a sanitary cordon at the Lines. Fortunately the hounds were at San Roque and an officer of the Garrison who had been sent there on sick leave before the imposition of the quarantine, was allowed to remain to take charge of them. Meets continued to be held, and were mostly attended by the officers of the British Fleet then lying off Algeciras, under Admiral Fleming, a most enthusiastic sportsman. It was during this season that the hounds brought to bay a large wolf in the Cork Wood, and with the assistance of the gallant Admiral, who was in the thick of the melée, despatched it. With renewed communications hunting revived, but with a difference in the character and constitution of the Hunt. Most of the original civil members had ceased to belong to it, military men had been admitted in large numbers, and the whole management gradually fell into the hands of the officers of the Garrison. The uniform was changed to scarlet, and the hounds were brought in from San Roque, the kennels being built at the North Front under the auspices of the then governor, Sir George Don. The new kennels were built in 1884, the found- ation stone of which was laid by Lady Adye, wife of Sir John Adye, the Gov- ernor, assisted by several young ladies, regular attendants of the Hunting. The Calpe Hounds have existed with varying fortunes, but with an inherent vitality which has brought them safely through the difficulties and dangers which often threatened collapse. The determined antagonism of the Spanish farmers has often found vent in most exorbitant bills, the exchequer has been on the verge of bankruptcy more than once, sickly summers have thinned the pack and reduced its numbers almost to zero; but in its most evil days the Hunt has always found good friends, and the great national sport has held its own in the long run. In December, 1853, as a correspondent describes, "the hard-hearted quarantine having set in like a black frost, and still continuing without much appearance “of a thaw,” the pack was taken across the Straits for a visit to Barbary, and for 80 the first time the soul-spiriting notes of hounds and horn were heard in the land of the Moor. The visitors met with every kindness and attention from the English Minister, Sir John, then Mr. Hay, who made all suitable arrangements for their comfort. The Moorish farmers took the greatest interest in the doings of the Hunt and showed themselves fine sporting fellows. They had good sport, foxes being very plentiful, and on one occasion had a splendid run with a wolf-forty- seven minutes with only one check-the distance traversed being nine miles over a very rough country. The hounds were whipped off in the wooded crags of Cape. Spartel. The hounds are drafts from some of the best packs in England, and there are usually thirty couple in kennel. Puppies born in Gibraltar are difficult to rear, and from the terribly rough nature of the country, constant yearly additions have to be made to the pack, which entails a large drain on the Hunt resources. Any notice of the Calpe Hunt would be incomplete without coupling with it the name of Mr. Richard Holmes, a resident in Gibraltar, who has devoted the whole of his energy and spare time to the hounds, the coverts, the country, and everything connected with the Hunt for many years. Although he has now retired from any part in the management his services will always be gratefully remembered. THE COUNTRY IN THE VICINITY. We must begin by saying that the roads to the different places in the vicinity of the Rock, with the exception of that to San Roque which has been lately put into order, although not quite impassable for wheeled carriages, subject the traveller making use of such conveyances to very great fatigue and inconvenience. A visit to the surrounding country should be paid on horseback, if possible, and excellent hacks are to be obtained from several stables in Gibraltar at a moderate price. We may mention that the boundaries of the Campo of Gibraltar, which was formerly under the jurisdiction of the City of Gibraltar granted to the Duke of Medina Sidonia, were widely extended; running five leagues from East to West, three from North to South and comprising a circuit of twenty-nine leagues. They extended Eastward as far as the River Guadiaro (River of Houses) which also formed on that side the boundary of the Kingdom of Seville. To the Westward they adjoined those of Tarifa, Medina Sidonia, and Alcalá, to the North they met those of the towns of Castellar and Ximena and to the South those of Tarifa and the Straits. In them were also included the boundaries of Algeciras. 81 This extensive district was, formerly, very fertile, its productions chiefly in wine and cattle increasing with the population; its numerous valleys were better adapted for pasture than tillage, and corn was often imported for consumption; on the other hand, its hills produced fine wines in great abundance, which were held in estimation in Italy, France and England. It is somewhat remarkable that the olive was not cultivated in an equal proportion although the soil is well adapted to so valuable a production. First, we will mention the places to which a visit and return can be accom- plished in the day, which must be between morning and evening gunfire. 1. The town of San Roque. 2. The Pine Woods. 3. The Cork Woods, in which are the 2d Venta, the Mill, the Long Stables and the Convent of Almoraima. 4. Castellar. 5. The town of Los Barrios. 6. The town of Algeciras. 7. The Waterfall, four miles from Algeciras. The traveller leaves the fortress, if on horseback, by the Landport Gate, where its narrow winding passage recalls a noteworthy anecdote. In 1624 King Phi- lip IV. of Spain, determined on a tour of inspection through his Southern Pro- vinces, and on reaching Gibraltar, when attempting to enter the place in his carriage, it was found impossible to pass the narrow and tortuous way by which the entrance was to be effected. It was therefore necessary to take the carriage to pieces, and the King entered the Garrison on foot. The nobleman in attend- ance complained in harsh terms to the Governor that it was his duty to have had the entrance widened; to which was replied, to which was replied, "That the entrance was not made "that carriages might come in, but was so constructed that the enemy might be kept out." If in a carriage the Waterport Gate must be the road taken, which afterwards passes over the Glacis, defended by a complete system of military mines, and then over the causeway, 300 yards long, which leads outside the last barrier gate (Bayside) to the North Front. On this Glacis was established a lazaretto for the sick during the scourge of fever; there is now a small hospital for infectious diseases at the North end; and at the corner of the beach was executed in January, 1830, a pirate, Benito Soto, the second mate of the "Defensor de Pedro," a Brazilian brig, ringleader of the mutineers who seized the ship off the coast of Africa, murdering some of the crew who would not join. He then committed piracies on many vessels, scuttling one of them, the bark "Morning Star," with 11 82 English officers, ladies, and soldiers, passengers from Ceylon; but after the departure of the pirate ship the leaks were stopped, and the vessel reached England in safety, when the evidence of the passengers was available against the mutineers. Other ships were burnt and destroyed; the crews in all cases being treated most brutally, and many of them shot or thrown overboard. The pirates, on reaching European waters, ran the vessel on shore near Cadiz and succeeded in landing with their booty; but their conduct was so suspicious that twenty-three of them were arrested, two only making their escape. Of the twenty-three who were brought to trial at Cadiz eighteen were executed, being dragged to the place of execution six of these being beheaded and their heads exposed on the gates, and the rest hanged, drawn and quartered. The ringleader, Benito Soto, was captured at Gibraltar, and after nineteen months in prison at the Moorish Castle he was brought to trial before Sir George Don, at the Admiralty Sessions at the Court House, condemned to death, and hanged four days after. ;; During the Great Siege a line of chevaux-de-frise was fixed by the Corps of Soldier Artificers, from the foot of Landport Glacis, adjoining Waterport, to the sloping palisades on the Causeway across the inundation. Looking back, and to the right and left, it will be seen that the Causeway is most strongly defended, being protected by the fire of the Grand Battery (erected in 1543 on the ruins of the lower part of the first wall of the Moorish Castle, with a deep dry ditch carried close into the body of the Rock), and also by the guns of the Lines, the Galleries and the Old Mole, and would be swept by a terrible storm of shot and shell if occasion should arise. During the siege of 1705 a breach was opened in this battery which was assaulted in 7th February in that year, when the enemy approached nearer to success than they ever did in the later sieges. The Curate Romero relates that on that occasion the place would have fallen had the Spaniards been aware of the alarm and confusion prevailing within, and persevered in their attack "but the French troops," he observes, "jealous of Villadarias and desirous that Marshal Tessé, daily expected, should have the honour of the capture, gave little support to the assault, and were the first to retire, whence arose the great loss that fell on the Spaniards. To the spot reached by them it is certain that no assailants will ever again arrive, in consequence of the numerous batteries since erected, upon which Xerxes himself with all his host would be unable to make any impression." Along the trim and well kept road, bordered with growing trees, with the neatly arranged Camp on the left hand, our advanced line of sentries is reached, facing the bare and barren Neutral Ground, which begins 800 yards from the Bayside Gate. During the Great Siege the enemy's most advanced trench was within 500 yards of the Bayside Gate; rather nearer to Spain than the entrance ་ 83 of Queen Victoria's road. Here, previously to the attack by the fire ships, a most stupendous parallel had been built at which 10,000 men were employed. The line embraced each shore of the isthmus, with a formidable communication or earthwork in front; the epaulement raised entirely of sand bags, ten to twelve feet high, and of proportionate thickness. The Spanish Gazettes give the line as 230 toises, or 1,380 feet, and 1,600,000 sand bags were employed in its erection. On leaving our sentries we pass over a road generally in most excellent disrepair and soon the long line of white stone sentry-boxes indicates the Spanish Lines, into which the traveller enters by a gate, guarded by particularly unprepossessing- looking sentries, whose slouching gait and careless manner of carrying their arms contrasts badly with the smartness of everything military he has left behind him on the Rock. Here are also the Carabineros, whose duty is to examine all car- riages, baskets, and bundles for articles liable to duty. This is done most strictly, but individuals are let off more easily, or how can we account for the groups of men and women whom the traveller will see on parts of the road, packing themselves and each other with cotton and silk goods, tea, small parcels of tobacco, and other contraband articles. These must escape search, or it would not be worth while to run the risk. The sandy isthmus over which the whole of the road between Bayside and the Lines passes, together with the land for nearly two miles beyond, bear unequivocal marks of having once formed the sea bed. The surface, almost entirely composed of sea sand, resembles a little sandy desert, in many parts of which are seen large assemblages of gregarious shells similar to those now in existence in the Bay. A Roman ruin, discovered near Campo in 1845, containing coins of the lower empire, was found covered in one part with layers of these shells several feet below the present surface and nearly six feet above the present level of the sea. This fact appears to be conclusive that the sea had encroached upon the land since the destruction of a Roman town or village and had again receded. This isthmus is in most parts about ten feet about the level of the sea and from the Rock to the level ground at the foot of the Queen of Spain's Chair, where it is lost, its cir- cumference is nearly eight miles. The Lines (Línea de la Concepcion.) During the suspension of hostilities in the siege of 1727, while negotiations long protracted, were proceeding and which resulted in the confirmation of the pos- session of Gibraltar by England by the Treaty of Seville (1729), the Spaniards, under Count Montemar, taking advantage of the large force before Gibraltar re- maining inactive, in order to isolate Gibraltar as much as possible, erected a line of fortifications from the Mediterranean to the Bay, with a strong fort at either end-on the West Fort San Felipe, and on the East Fort Santa Barbara-with 84 parapets eighteen feet thick, faced with stone, between them being places of arms and guard-houses. They were destroyed in 1810 by Colonel Harding, Royal En- gineers, at the request of Spain during their war with France, when the French overran the Campo of Gibraltar and ineffectually besieged Tarifa, the Spanish army, under General Ballesteros, having taken refuge under the guns of Gibraltar and fearing that the French might make a lodgment in the lines, which were very strong. On this occasion Ballesteros received large supplies of money and stores from Gibraltar. On their first erection by Philip V. the British agent at Madrid was instructed to remonstrate against them, but he wrote back in reply, "I was assured if the "whole universe shall fall on the King to make him desist, he would rather let "himself be cut to pieces than consent, since he has maturely considered his "right to the ground and we might as well pretend to Cadiz, in virtue of our treaties, as to the spot where the line was; it was far out of point blank can- non shot which was all we could justly ask." 66 "" When Ferdinand VII. was replaced on his throne by English arms, Ballesteros the Spanish General who had found refuge under our guns, urged upon his master to re-construct these works. General Don therefore said to the Spanish Commandant at Algeciras, "If you begin, I will fire a gun; if that won't do, I “will fire another; and if you persevere you shall have a broadside from the Gal- "leries;" (once called by the Spaniards "los dientes de la vieja," the grinders of the stern old Cerbera.) The destruction of these lines, for which the negotiations were conducted by Sir Colin Campbell, Governor of Gibraltar, was as essential a measure for Gibraltar as it was for the Spaniards, as it then contained a mixed and disaffected population of more than 12,000 persons and merchandize to the value of two millions which could have been easily destroyed by bombardment. They had a formidable armament during the Great Siege; San Felipe had twenty- six guns, Santa Bárbara twenty-three, in addition to the batteries of El Rey, El Principe, La Princesa, and El Infante, fifteen guns between them; besides thirty large mortars on either side to Tunara on the East and Punta Mala on the West. A great deal of the stone was brought into Gibraltar and used in building; the houses at the corner of Gunner's Parade and Engineers Lane, and two large houses in Waterport Street on the right hand side, below the Post Office, being among those erected from this material. On the ruins were erected what was formerly a collection of squalid houses, with two Barracks for the Spanish troops; but within the last two or three years houses of a much better pretension have been erected on the sand, with some cafés, a large church, a market, and a bull-ring; and the place is spreading extensively, the inhabitants now numbering thousands where formerly they were only in hundreds, and the foundations of the old forts still being found most useful 85 . as quarries of cut stone. Several handsome villas have lately been erected. There is also a cock-fighting establishment, which is largely patronized, particu- larly on Sundays. The inhabitants, other than the soldiers, exist on the "crumbs" of the Rock; more than 3,000 of them, from the Lines and San Roque, coming into Gibraltar daily. The town is encompassed with gardens highly cultivated although the soil would not strike a stranger as likely to be fertile. Quantities of vegetables and fruit find their way into Gibraltar from these gardens which extend almost to the foot of the Queen of Spain's Chair (Sierra Carbonera). The origin of the name (which is not known to the Spaniards) is very doubtful. It is said that when the French and Spanish troops were besieging Gibraltar the Queen of Spain took her seat there and vowed she would never move from the spot until she had seen the Spanish flag waving over Gibraltar. There she sat far too long for Majesty and might have been added to the list of the martyrs she had invoked had it not been for the mercy and gallantry of the English Governor, who having heard of the Royal vow, caused the Spanish standard to be waved over the ramparts and so released the Royal lady. We need hardly add the story has no foundation. The "Chair" is 971 feet in height and distant 6,866 yards from the Rock Gun. The cross on the summit was placed there about 1864 by a Jesuit Missionary, Padre Ricardo. These crosses are often placed on elevated situations near towns or villages in remembrance of a mission and are resorted to on stated days; there are crosses at Algeciras and Los Barrios of the same origin. Passing through the Lines to the West, a few minutes' most unsavoury ride brings us to the Western Beach, at low tide a noble stretch of sand; and putting our horse into a canter, scarcely a mile brings us to the turning leading to San Roque; here we leave the sands, and proceeding leisurely, as the road here is not good, reach in another half-mile the village of Campamento, a poor place, but cool in the summer, and consequently many inhabitants of Gibraltar, whose business takes them there daily, have their summer residences at this convenient distance. At the back of the village is a large common where is the polo ground, rented by the Gibraltar Garrison where formerly the Steeple Chase Meeting was held in the early spring, but the cultivation of a great part of the Common has diverted the ground to other uses and the Steeple Chase Meeting is held on the North Front. Occasionally there is capital quail shooting to be had on this common. 86 Proceeding on our way from Campamento we shortly pass on the left hand a summer pavilion, with a delightful garden full of orange and locuot trees, belong- ing to Mr. Francia, of Gibraltar. Dr. Kelaart says that an artificial cave was discovered in this garden, extending a great way into the body of the hill and containing evidences of its former occu- pation by man. A grave was also found, containing several human skeletons, in a perfect state of preservation: there were rude implements, chiefly of stone, buried with them, which are considered to indicate that the remains were those of Phoenicians. Opposite to the gate may be observed the remains of a plain tomb, now rapidly falling to decay; formerly a cross stood beside it-La Cruz del Sardo-it having been the burial place of a Sardinian captain of a merchant vessel who, during the War of Independence, when San Roque was occupied by a French division, approaching too near their lines was attacked and killed by a party sent out to intercept his retreat; his companions erected a stone on the spot, on which was recorded the name and the untimely death of the Sardinian. At the foot of the hill leading to San Roque we see on the left hand a farm, with a flourishing vine- yard on the sunny slope to the stream, belonging to Mr. H. Sprague, United States Consul at Gibraltar; and shortly after, on the opposite side, we pass a cortijo with a large red cross on the front wall, with the remains of two smaller on either side. Popular tradition recounts that a murder was committed there, and the symbol is one of the murder crosses, not uncommon in Spain where the burning heat of the climate keeps the blood at boiling point and the navaja is ever handy. Such crosses may be seen occasionally in the Cork and Marajamboo Woods. But the most reliable accounts agree that the house (known as the Cortijo de tres Cruces or Cortijo de Gambaro) was built by Don Diego Gonzalez, who had the crosses painted on the wall solely as a religious symbol, to invoke Divine pro- tection and as a defence against evil spirits. A very little further on, rather removed from the road on the left hand side, there is a murder cross, "La Cruz "del Padre Ventura," erected in memory of a man of that name of great worth and highly respected, who was hanged by the French on the spot, for withholding some information which they desired to obtain. From this spot we view a large expanse of corn land down the valley to the left, while, on the right, rises the rugged clefts of the Sierra Carbonera, now, alas! for the Calpe Hunt, with every little bit cultivated up to the commencement of the rock ridge at the top; and looking back to the Rock of Gibraltar it appears as an island, the isthmus connecting it with the main land merging into the azure blue of the sea in a very few minutes from here we reach 87 San Roque, the situation of an ancient Hermitage which had always been an object of great veneration to the people of Gibraltar, for when in 1649 an epidemic disease, hav- ing committed great ravages at Cadiz and Seville causing the ruin of these opulent cities, finally reached Gibraltar, all attacked by it fell victims, and as no human skill could arrest its progress recourse was had to the Hermitage to which proces- sions and pilgrimages were successfully made. It was observed that none died who retired to that eminence although attacked by the disease; whence arose the greatest devotion to the Holy Shrine, and the anniversary was celebrated by the people of Gibraltar by a devotional procession and much solemnity. The town was founded in 1704 by the Spaniards after the loss of Gibraltar, and built chiefly from the ruins of the ancient city of Carteia. The account of the building of San Roque, for many years a most important town, and other neighbouring towns is so interesting that it deserves a somewhat lengthened notice. We have seen that but few inhabitants of Gibraltar availed themselves of the provisions of the 5th article of the capitulation when the Rock was taken by the English in 1704. Though the simple form of taking the oath of allegiance to Charles III. would have protected them and their properties from molestation, the citizens, with honourable resolution, preferred to abandon their homes, their comforts and their fortunes rather than submit to a foreign dominion. Thus then the Spanish inhabitants of Gibraltar who, preferring the loss of their possessions and all they held dear, had left the fortress in a body when it fell into the hands of the English, proceeded to form for themselves new dwellings in different parts of the neighbouring Campo. They still considered themselves the representatives of the lost city, whose name and authorities they kept, as also were continued to them, by Royal command, all the privileges they enjoyed in their former city. Thus there may be said to have existed two cities of Gibraltar, one the actual, occupied by the English, and the other the moral, composed of Spaniards who had fled from that city with their archives and title deeds of their properties (Montero). No doubt there was as much lingering hope of again possessing the strong place they had wrested from the Moors in the minds of the Kings of Spain, when they contri- buted to keep up this contradiction, as it may be called, as a wish to soften the bitterness of their loss and to reward their loyalty to the Crown, when they con- erred all their former privileges to their subjects, as if the city had never ceased to be under their dominion, and that the exodus of the inhabitants to other parts. had only been made for reasons of convenience. In 1716 a special Chief Magistrate or Corregidor was appointed by the Spanish Government, together, as declared in the Royal Patent, with a Council, Tribunals, Officers and Gentlemen of the City of Gibraltar, and in all public acts the people 88 of San Roque are still styled "the inhabitants of Gibraltar, residing at San Roque." CC It was to San Roque the greater part of the fugitives proceeded, and encamped near the famous Hermitage which recalled so greatly to their recollection the benefits they had derived in the epidemic of 1649. Soon therefore a village, which afterwards became a town, was there established. Such was the foundation of the present San Roque, a place most convenient as being as near to the Rock as possible, to be well away from its guns; but the inhabitants still treasured the hope of recovering their own again; and this was the reason the town was not built at Rocadillo, a place in every way more suitable (Montero). Some few years afterwards others of the fugitives who had sought the farms and cottages on the banks of the Palmones, gathered together round the Oratory of San Isidro, on the Cortijo de Tinoco, and this was the commencement of Los Barrios. The smallest part of the homeless who had wandered towards old Algeciras. were reunited around the Oratory of the Vírgen de la Palma, and there established a town like the others, which was the foundation of new Algeciras, but both these latter towns were subject to the jurisdiction of San Roque, seat of the Municipal Council of the ancient fortress; and these three populations represented the lost Gibraltar. In due time large churches were erected, and in them found refuge the sacred images removed from the Church of St. Mary at Gibraltar, as has been mentioned in our descriptive notes on that edifice; that of St. Joseph being in the church of Los Barrios, and the venerated image of Jesus of Nazareth in the church at San Roque. San Roque rapidly increased in numbers, and in 1727 they were doubled; Alge- ciras also increased greatly, particularly on account of its port, and in consequence sought partition from the dominion of San Roque, and memorials were laid before the Sovereign to obtain it; these naturally were energetically opposed by San Roque, and for the time the subject was not persevered with, but reopened in 1734 with greater persistency. Älgeciras pleaded the great augmentation of its population, much superior to San Roque, its increasing commerce and the little attention it received from the Council at San Roque. It therefore not only prayed for its ancient extended limits, but that the ancient Ayuntamiento of Gibraltar should be transferred to it. In 1738 the petition of Algeciras was refused by the King, who only conceded the appointment of an Alcalde, nominated by the Corregidor of San Roque, who was to exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction in the city and for one league out- side, subject to the approbation of the Council. In 1755, owing to the increase of Algeciras, it received concession for a sepa- Pate Ayuntamiento; and soon after this division of jurisdiction came a division of territorial rights between the towns.. Algeciras was to be bounded by the Pal- mones River, San Roque by the Guadarranque, and Los Barrios was to possess jurisdiction over the part between the rivers, the other limits of the separate jurisdictions being Tarifa, Alcalá de los Gazules, Castellar and Casares, and such they are to this day. In 1763 San Roque protested against this diminution of her ancient privileges,, but gained only some trifling concessions. In 1808 General Castaños, as General of the Campo, resided chiefly at Algeciras, which he greatly embellished with buildings, and ultimately, in spite of the pro- testations of the people of San Roque, removed the head quarters of the Campo of Gibraltar altogether to Algeciras, in view of the great need of every communi- cation and watchfulness over Ceuta, constantly threatened by enemies; and the Government, on being appealed to, confirmed this resolution on account of the superior importance of the place as a port and a fortress. The headquarters,, therefore, of the Campo of Gibraltar are now at Algeciras. San Roque is situated on an eminence, and is very healthy. The population is: about 8,000. It has a bull-ring, where, during the fair time, a "cuadrilla" of performers takes part in the popular and brutal amusement of bull-fights. It has always been the head-quarters of the different Spanish and French armies engaged in the siege of the Rock. All persons be on the Rock are entitled to: the rights of native Spanish subjects.. Sir George Don, the Governor of Gibraltar in 1826, had his country-house at San Roque, and there are many good residences belonging to inhabitants of the Rock; but the town itself is miserably dull, and only wakes up during the fair time, and at occasional times when the Calpe Hounds meet there, and bring an unwonted concourse of gallant men and fair women to enliven the place.. From San Roque, a ride of about four miles over a rough country and without trees, brings us to the Second Venta, a muleteer's halting-place at the entrance- of the Cork Woods, but neither at this nor at any other places in the Cork Woods can any refreshment be obtained for man, except at the Long Stables, where bread and tortilla can be had, but in all of them stabling and food can be obtained for beast.. There are two roads from San Roque to the Cork Woods; leaving the town by the road passing the bull-ring one bears to the left after crossing the stream at 1.2 90 the bottom and passes by the First Venta the other to the right over the hills at the back of the Duke of Kent's Farm direct: to the Second Venta.. If, instead of turning off to the right to Campamento, on the road to San Roque, the traveller continues along the beach he passes by Punta Mala, which formerly had a large and well armed fort. It was at this point of the Bay their material was landed by the Spaniards; their camp, consisting of two lines, extend- ing from Punta Mala in an oblique direction towards the Queen of Spain's Chair. The hills were then completely covered with trees and brushwood which were cut down in the most lavish manner for the requirements of the camp and siege works, so great were the requirements for the camp; hence the name Sierra Car- bonera. The artillery park was nearer the Bay, close to Punta Mala, a spot which had been selected for its advantages as a landing place for stores, guns, &c. It was here also the allied English and Dutch landed between 3,000 and 4,000 men from Sir George Rooke's squadron, as a land force to operate against Gibraltar when it was taken in 1704. The next village is Orange-grove (Puente Mayorga), a small fishing village, where there is a picturesque bridge over a little river, which, although placid enough in general, yet, when swollen by heavy rains, becomes a torrent, and cuts a path to the sea through the sand, in which at other times it loses itself. Two officers and the driver of their car were drowned here a few years ago. This stream, rising near the Cortijo del Aguila in the Sierra Carbonera on the right hand side of the Malaga road and there called the Cagancha, runs by San Roque and under the new bridge near Francia's garden, where it is joined by another stream, Aguas Dulces, formed from the waters of Castejon or Castellon (the old tower of Carteia), and from thence flows towards the sea under the name of Cachon de Puente Mayorga. From Orange Grove the ride to the 1st Venta over the Carteian Hills is very pleasant and affords some fine views; it is the route usually taken in wet weather or when the beach is bad; but straight on the stretch of beach towards the First River (Guadarranque) is called "The Ladies' Mile." It is usually very good and sound and, with but little traffic there is every temptation for a gallop: so it is scarcely necessary to explain the title. On approaching the Tower on the right hand close to the river, on the eminence called "El Rocadillo" now a farm, the corn grows where once Carteia flourished. Carteia. This famous city of the ancients was founded by the Phoenician Hercules, hence called Melcanth (King's Town) 896 B.C., 3108 A.M. It was enjoyed by 91 them for many years until taken by storm by Hannibal and destroyed (B.c. 220), being a very wealthy city and the capital of a province, having carried on a great trade from Britain, Spain, Africa and many isles and countries with the famous mart of Tyre. According to Justin, Carteia was conquered by the Carthaginians about 2:80 years B.C., being then a rich city and the metropolis of the whole pro- vince. Under them it maintained its trade and commerce as well as its warlike spirit as many of the Carteians accompanied Hannibal to Italy in the second Punic War. It was called by the Greeks Tartessus, and there is very great pro- bability of its having been the identical port of Tarsis to which the fleets of King Solomon resorted, 992 B.C. The wealth of the country seemed to have been very great in those ages, particularly in its rich and inexhaustible mines, the memory of which is preserved in 8th chap. 1st book Maccabees, where the writer is celebrating the acts of the Romans and saying "They had reduced to their "dominion the gold and silver of Spain." Their riches Diodorus Siculus extols greatly, adding that when the Phoenicians first arrived on the coast, having anassed more silver than their ships would hold, they took the lead from off their anchors and capt them with that precious metal. Polybius says that in a mountain not twenty stadii from Carthagena was a mine in which he saw working 40,000 men daily extracting 25,000 drachms of silver for the Romans, and Goropius, a modern antiquary, has ventured to affirm that Andalusia supplied the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans successively with more gold and silver than the Indies furnished to old Spain. Carteia was taken from the Carthaginians by the Romans 200 B.C. and became a Roman colony, where Caius Pompeius retreated when Cæsar gained the memorable battle over Pompey's two sons at Munda, B.C. 45. The Romans were absolute masters of Spain for 620 years till the Goths overran Rome, and the Vandals carried fire and sword into Spain and destroyed the cities. It is probable Carteia was finally destroyed when they broke into Andalusia, A.D. 425. Carteia is described by Ayala as the first colony held by the Romans in Spain, the receptacle of the fleets of the Carthaginians and the Phoenicians, the Court of Argantonius, the frequented emporium of all commercial nations. History records the important part its citizens took in Cæsar's wars, and from Carteia Sextus Pompeius, after the death of Cæsar, marched at the head of six legions. The foundations of the old city have been traced to a spot between Orange Grove and Punta Mala, its Eastern boundary; and statues, coins, cinerary urns, tablets, &c., have been discovered in plenty within that place. In the Town Hall of San Roque may be seen a small but elegantly worked basso-relievo found there. The site was surveyed. in 1630 by Don Micaio Farinas, who reports the Mole. was then almost entire and that it had illustrious ruins of superb edifices standing. In ancient times the mouth of the river must have had very considerable accom- anodation as we read in Livy that Varus, Pompey's Admiral, being defeated by Didius in a naval engagement off the Bay of Gibraltar, retired his fleet within the harbour of Carteia, and across its mouth fixed a number of anchors against which those of Didius' ships who attempted to enter struck, whereby Varus that day saved his whole fleet, consisting of thirty men-of-war, from destruction. Before 1704 the rains of the ancient city were very considerable, but they were used up to build the new houses of the inhabitants of Gibraltar, who left that city on its capture by the English. Remains of the acqueduct which supplied it may, Lowever, still be seen near the Almendral, to the North of San Roque. Strabo says that Carteia was famous for a large purple shell fish which weighed ten pounds and was eagerly sought after by the ancients, as from it was extracted that rich Tyrian dye so prized by the Romans. The old tower on the beach near the first river must not be confounded with the tower of Cartagena, which was of great size, and the ruins of which are still on a hill to the North of the site of the old city. It was simply one of the coast watch towers in the time of Philip III. This watch-tower, of which are several in our neighbourhood, dates from about 1620, forty-four of them being erected along the whole extent of coast from the Easternmost point of the ancient Kingdom of Granada to the borders of the Portuguese territory, comprising an extent of sixty- three leagues. They were erected as a permanent remedy against the inroads of the Turkish corsairs by whom the Mediterranean was infested, and notwithstanding the vigilance of the Spanish naval forces often spread alarm and consternation along its fertile shores, the district of Gibraltar being too often the scene of their insults and depredations. The Ministers of Philip III. therefore resolved to erect these towers from which could easily be seen the light of the fires made by the guards luring the night or the smoke in the daytime, to announce the approach of the enemy and call to arms at the shortest notice all the inhabitants of the coasts, who were by these inroads so constantly exposed to great losses and also to captivity. It may be mentioned that the reign of Philip is particularly remark- able for the expulsion of the last remnants of the Moors from Spain. These were yet numerous, and although most of them pretended Christians they still secretly indulged in the doctrines of the Prophet: the Catholic clergy could ill- brook the appearance in every part of the Kingdom of these infidels, amounting probably to a million of souls, active and intelligent, exercising great skill and industry, by which they would infallibly become in a few years predominant, possibly to the overwhelming of Christianity in the whole Peninsula. After umerous representations from the higher orders of clergy, supported by rc- monstrances from Rome and assisted by the entreaties of his wife, Philip finally determined to expel the whole of the surviving Moors and their descendants from 93 Spain; and in 1610, after a lapse of 900 years from the first arrival of Tarik and his followers, was to be seen at Gibraltar the expulsion of their descendants conducted to Africa by the Spanish Admiral Don Juan de Mendoza. Among the little cluster of houses near the Ferry is one for refrescos, including that beverage particularly dear to Englishmen; and Mariquita, the hostess, is well known for her civil and prompt attention to thirsty souls. The road along the river bank to the right winds at the bottom of the hill of Rocadillo, over the little river (Rio de la Madre Vieja), and across the cultivated plain, almost impassable in wet weather, to the 1st Venta (del Padre Mendez) and from there the traveller passes first the Duke of Kent's Farm (Cortijo de la Fajonera), then observes the sugar mill on the opposite bank of the stream- stream-now used only as a corn mill, the cultivation of the cane not being a success there-and soon reaches the 2d Venta (de Gamez) at the entrance of The Cork Woods Nothing can exceed the beauty of these woods, although now sadly thinned by the charcoal burner, and of late years cut through by the railway; they are a favourite resort of pic-nic parties from the Rock, and in the winter constantly resound with the cherry cry of the Calpe Huntsman, the sound of the horn, aud the deep notes of the hounds, fer through the kindness of Mr. Heredia, of Malaga, many parts are strictly prohibited to shooting parties and consequently foxes are undisturbed. They are many miles in extent and possess every kind of beauty. Open spaces covered with the most springy turf, where it is impossible to resist a gallop; deep ravines thickly wooded, dusky groves, a pleasant retreat from the summer sun, hundreds of sorts of wild flowers and ferns, magnificent old cork trees, very much like the oak in appearance, a resemblance which is further heightened by their bearing acerns, and a broad river at the bottom, all make up a scene which requires te be visited only to be appreciated; and which is quite certain to leave a pleasing recollection for years in the mind of the tra weller. At certain seasons there is good rough shooting in these woods and between the rivers, If, instead of visiting the Cork Woods, the traveller desires to pursue his way to Algeciras he crosses the Guadarranque (River of Mares) in the ferry boat On this river in ancient times hundreds of Reman galleys moved, and here also and at Algeciras the bomb-vessels were built during the great siege. Once on the other side the way is plain to the Second River (Palmones). (The tower between the two rivers is called Entre Rios, and that on the further side of the Palmones, La Almiranta). This river is also crossed in a ferry-boat, and the way is then quite clear to ¿ 94 Algeciras. This town was built by the Moors about the second year of their coming into Spain, and was once a fortress of great magnificence and note, the name Alghezyrah- Al-hadra signifying "the Green Island," is still preserved in the island opposite, "La Isla Verde." It was here that in July, 1801, the English man-of-war "Hannibal," in an action between Admiral Saumarez and the French Admiral Li- nois, ran ashore and was captured. The town was taken by the Spaniards in 1344, during which siege cannon was first used by the Moors, and the English who were assisting the Spaniards, used it after at Cressy. The renowa of King Alonzo who conducted the attack was so great, and more particularly since the battle of Salado where the Moors lost 200,000 men and enormous booty the fame of which victory had spread through Europe, that many renowned Knights and Crusaders were induced to enrol themselves under his banner or assist him in the field with their forces. From Germany there came the Count de Bous; from Italy many Genoese who fought with great valour from France many celebrated warriors, including Gaston de Foix and his brother Roger, and from England Henry Duke of Lancaster, who was wounded beneath the walls by an arrow, Lord Derby and the Earls of Salisbury, Lincoln and Leicester, while the King of Navarre, accompanied by a division of troops, marched forward to the siege in haste. So great was the interest of Europe in the annihilation of the Moorish dynasty. At his death the body of Alonzo was laid in the Cathedral Church of Cordoba. Philip II. when at that city in 1568 had it disinterred that he might view the relics of so famous a predecessor. The Spanish Monarch was scandalized to find the corpse of the hero without a sword. One was brought to be placed by his side. Not that," said Philip, "but mine, for such a King a King's sword only "is fit." From the taking of Algeciras or rather from the battle of Tarifa two years before, may be dated the serious decline of the Mahometan dominton in Spain which from that period began to draw towards its total annihilation. It is said that after the battle of Tarifa the Spaniards found in the camp of the Moors such an immense booty and such astonishing sums of gold and silver as to lower the value of money, and raise that of provisions, all over the kingdom. ; In 1364 it was retaken by the Granada Moors and destroyed. The King of Spain is also King of Algeciras, a remnant of his former greatness, it being one of the keys of the Moors to Spain. Old Algeciras was situated on the South bank of the Rio Miel and remains yet exist in the Torre Villa Vieja (Tower of the Old Town), aud another tower close to the sea, abreast of Isla Verde. The towers are square indicating Moorish origin. 95 The aqueduct still in good order and supplying the town is generally spoken of as having been constructed by the Romans; but Montero says that neither in Algeciras or in the Villa Vieja (Old Town) are any vestiges of Roman occupation and that the aqueduct and the remains of the old walls in the vicinity belonged to the city founded by Tarik and which was re-built and extended by Jusuf Ben Tachfin in 1098. Modern Algeciras was rebuilt by Charles III. in 1760, to be a hornet's nest against Gibraltar, swarming with privateers in war time, and with guarda costas in peace. It is a large place, population about 12,000, but very dull and sleepy -a type of all the towns to be seen in the South of Spain. The land communi- cation from it to the interior is very bad. It is the head quarters of the force stationed over the Campo, as the Spaniards still call the whole country round Gibraltar, and the Commandant is the Governor of the place. The handsome Plaza has a fountain erected by Castaños in 1808, and there is also a church of some interest. The Alameda is prettily laid out and the bull-ring is spacious. The bull-fights here are among the best in Spain. The town itself is of little interest except for its associations and the sieges it has undergone from the Moslem and Christian, but remains of noble aqueducts exist in the immediate vicinity. It is visited from Gibraltar, as a day out from the hot rock in the summer, and for the purchase of gloves, which are good and cheap. An excel- lent luncheon may be obtained at the Fonda de la Marina on the beach, from the windows of which the old Rock, five and a half miles distant across the Bay, appears magnificently grand. • The Waterfall (Las Chorreras), about four miles from Algeciras, is very picturesque, and well worth a visit. It is situated in a ravine of a low spur of the Sierra de la Luna, the distance of the nearest or most Easterly bend of that range from the centre of Algeciras being equal to the distance of the latter from the summit of the Rock-about 30,500 feet on either side. This is a positive fact, although it seems difficult to realise that the Sierra de la Luna, except the nearest point named, is farther from Algeciras than the whole width of the Bay to Gibraltar, plus the distance up the Rock. From Algeciras, the sharp rugged outline of the Rock, assumes the appear- ance which has caused the Spaniards to call it "El Cuerpo," it appearing like a vast human body laid out on its back and covered with a winding sheet like a dead Titan on his funeral pile; the head towards Spain, the chest arched at Middle Hill, the legs rising gently upward to the knees at O'Hara's Tower, and then sloping down till the feet rest on Europa. To the North of Algeciras, in a pic- turesque valley about thirteen miles from Gibraltar, lies the town of Los Barrios. • 譬 ​$6 Los Barrios, Founded by the refugees after the siege of 1704, on the situation of an ancient Hermitage (San Isidro). Only worth visiting on account of the scenery through which the road passes. The church is the only object of interest worthy the attention of the traveller.. Castellar, An old Moorish town and fortress, the latter in good preservation, situated on a great height of bare rugged mountain which rises between the Rivers Hosgar-- ganta and Guadarranque. It has to be reached by a rocky staircase, nearly 2,000 feet high. It remained in the power of the Moors till 1-434 when it was. taken by Juan de Saavedra, Alcalde of Ximena, recovered by them, but again. Be-taken by the same valiant soldier. It is the property of the Duke of Medina Celi. The road from Gibraltar to Castellar (about 18 miles) is through the Cork. Woods, and passes by The Convent of Almoraima. The ancient Convent of Mercenarios called Santo Cristo de la Alinoraiina was: founded in 1603 by Doña Beatriz Ramirez de Mendoza, Countess of Castellar.. It is now a farm-house; but in the Chapel still existing a solemn service is cele-- brated on the 3d of May in each year which is usually well attended by the Gibraltar and country people, who afterwards hold high holiday in the Woods. Alınoraima, in Arabic, signifies payment of fines and the old Moorish tower near the river is said to be the place where fines were collected from those who trespassed on these lands. · Among the places to be visited from Gibraltar, but not within the limits of a day's ride, we inay mention. Tarifa, and Ximena in Spain, and Tangier, Ceuta, and Tetuan, in Barbary.. Tarifa, the Julia Traducta of the Romans, and the most Moorish town of Andalusia, is: about twenty-four miles from Gibraltar. It is the most Southerly point of Europe, being five miles farther South than Europa Point, and two miles than Cabrita Point. It takes its name from Tarif, the Moslem eaptain who first com- menced the conquest of Spain, and was held by the Moors-for 581 years. The ride thither from Algeciras over the mountains is glorious, the views are splendid.. The wild forest through which the Guadalmeci boils and leaps is really magnifi- cent, and fine views of Gibraltar and its beautiful Bay are seen through its leafy xistas.. 97 The town contains some 13,000 inhabitants; its narrow and tortuous streets are enclosed by Moorish walls. The Alameda runs between the town and the sea, and the Alcazar, a genuine Moorish castle, is to the east, just within the walls. "C Tarifa was defended by Alonso de Guzman (El Bueno) in 1232 when the Moors threatened to kill his only son who had fallen into their hands, if he would not surrender the place. Alonso drew his dagger and threw it down, exclaiming, "I should rather they should kill this child, and five others if I had them, than surrender to them a city which my Sovereign has given me to guard!" He retired and the child was put to death; his head was cut off and hurled against the walls for his father to see, on which a cry of horror rang from the soldiers on the battlements: Alonso rushed forth, beheld his son's body, and returning to his childless mother, calmly observed, "I feared that the infidel had gained the City." The window from which he threw the dagger may still be seen in the Alcazar at Tarifa; it is blocked up but may be known by its border of azulejos (Dutch tiles). The site of the murder is marked by a more modern tower, La Torre de Guzman. Las Tarifeñas, or the women of Tarifa, wear the mantilla in the Moorish fashion, with only one eye peeping out; they are the true lions of the place. Tarifa was defended by the English against the attacks of the French under Victor and Laval, in 1811, after the battle of Barrosa. Its real strength consists in the rocky island which projects into the sea, on which is a castle. There is a good lighthouse 135 feet high, and a small sheltered bay. The castle commands the straits, and the small harbour in war time swarmed with gun-boats and pri- vateers; but in any future war, a man-of-war steamer from Gibraltar would render this source of annoyance to commerce an impossibility. Ximena. Ximena, formerly a Roman settlement on the River Hosgarganta, twenty-four miles from Gibraltar, is famous for its Moorish castles and caves. When Crassus took refuge in them during the civil wars of Marius and Sylla, they belonged to one Pachiocus, and when visited by Mr. Conduct they still belonged to one Puchoco, The name is itself Phoenician, and the town is supposed to have been an outpost from Carteia. The Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Angeles is situated at a quarter of a league to the South of the town; it possesses a very ancient image of the Virgin, in stone, which was fortunately discovered buried, most probably by the inhabitants, either when the town fell again into the power of the Moors after the first Christian conquest or even before when they first entered the Peninsula. The city was taken from the Moors in 1431; retaken by them in 1454; but again fell into the power of the Spanish King, Henry IV., in 1456, the Moorish garrison receiving good terms and being escorted in safety to 13 98. the gates of Gibraltar. In order to populate the town great privileges were granted to it, one of them being that a residence of ten months entitled those guilty of homicide to an ample pardon. It was conferred by the King on Don Beltran de Cueva, who sold it to the Duke of Medina Sidonia in 1471. In 1536 a suit was brought for its recovery by the Crown, but it was afterwards abandoned. During the great siege of 1782, two manufactories of shot and shell were established without the town, one on the Hosgarganta and the other on the Guadiaro. The first is in ruins, the second is almost completely extant. The venerated Sanctuary of N. S. de los Angeles is situated at a quarter of a league to the South of the town near the bank of the Hosgarganta, and a Convent of Franciscans was founded there in the 16th century which received in refuge the Nuns of the Santa Clara Convent at Gibraltar in 1704. TRIPS TO BARBARY. Cueta. : This Spanish possession in Africa is the Botany Bay of Spain. It is the Septem Fratres of Mela and the Heptadelphi of Ptolemy. It is situated on a rising ground at the foot of Ape's Hill. The name is a corruption of "Septem," the seven hillocks on which it is built. It is very strongly fortified on the land side. Ceuta is not always to be got at from Gibraltar direct, as there is no regular steam communication, but a Spanish despatch steamer starts regularly daily from Algeciras with Government despatches, mails and passengers for that fortress. The straits are only fourteen miles across between Gibraltar and Ceuta. It was taken from the Moors in 1415, in the reign of King John I. of Portugal, but having a Spanish Garrison in 1640 when the great Revolution took place in Portugal, when John Duke of Braganza found means to drive out the Spaniards, it did not revolt as the rest of the Portugese territory had done but remained in possession of the Spaniards. It is a bishop's see, has a good palace and a noble cathedral. The town is clean and paved in a mosaic pattern. The inhabitants are entirely kept to the Rock, as they dare not venture beyond the fortifications on account of the Moors, their hereditary foes. The number of convicts is usually about 3,000; they are indifferently kept and treated. Ceuta becomes an object of great interest when it is remembered that it was the starting-place of the Moors on their invasion of Spain. Its port also formed the basis of Spain's military operations against Morocco in 1859-60. There are authors: who say that: it was one of the first three cities in the world; the others being Salernum in 99 Italy and Salem in Judea. Ceuta was partly garrisoned by the English in 1810, the permission to do so having been obtained from the Spaniards by persevering negotiations. It was a valuable movement, for Ceuta was then chiefly garrisoned by condemned troops and filled with galley slaves, its works also were miserably neglected and it had only six days provisions. It was therefore at the mercy of the first thousand French who could cross the Straits. To them the possession of the place would have been valuable in many ways, especially in obtaining pro- visions from Rarbary, where their emissaries were exceedingly active. The other Spanish possessions on the coast are Melilla, Peñon de la Gomera, Ahlucemas and Chafarinas, the three first being also convict establishments. Tangier. No traveller should leave the neighbourhood of Gibraltar without crossing the straits and paying a visit to this seaport of Morocco. The sudden transition from the manners and customs of the West to those of Oriental nations which are here to be seen in perfection, is both curious and interesting. The trip to Tangier is perfectly easy as convenient steamers proceed there two or three times a week from Gibraltar, thirty-two miles distant, returning on the next or the following day with cattle and provisions for the troops. At Tangier the foreign Ministers accredited to the Court of the Emperor of Morocco and the foreign Consuls have their residences and only visit the Court occasionally on important diplomatic questions, when the journey is made with great state and ceremony. The personnel of these Legations impart a slightly European tinge to the com- munity of Tangier, but the steep and narrow streets are crowded with magnificent Moors in their picturesque costumes, who stride haughtily through the throng; with Jews, of whom there are great numbers and who may easily be recognised by their peculiar dress; with slaves of every sort of tinged complexion and with the wild-looking men from the Riff Coast, with uncovered heads shaven all but one long lock, by which Mahomet is to pull them up into heaven. These men are the veritable descendants of the old Riff pirates, for whom the Mediterranean was a wide field of operations. The streets are not only steep and narrow but very badly paved, as if placed purposely to make walking over them as difficult as possible. Blondin, who visited the place, left a memorial in the visitor's book of one of the hotels to the effect that it was needless for him to test his balancing powers here," because he was able to say that he had walked both up and down "the the main street of Tangier and had not fallen." The market-place outside the walls is most curious. There may be seen clusters of goat skin tents, with dirty and faded carpets, covered in with the green tops of the spreading cane; caravans of weary camels with enormous loads arrived from the interior, from Fez or Morocco; strings of the pretty little Barbary donkeys patient and uncared for, 100 who have also brought up their heavy burdens; the Arab musician, with his pipe and tom-tom; the snake charmer, with his gleaming eyes and his uncomfortable looking playfellows; the story-teller, with his circle of attentive listeners; the women, closely veiled, sitting in groups, patiently waiting for their lords and masters; Moorish soldiers with their blue cloaks and red peaked caps; the Moorish peasant armed with yataghan and enormously long gun; and among all this motley crowd a few Europeans, imparting the only bit of colour to this curious scene where all the garments, almost without exception, are of a dirty white colour. But the visitor will see all these things far better than we can describe them, so we strongly recommend him not to lose the opportunity. There are some excellent hotels. The principal objects of interest are; the Casba or citadel; the Soko or market-place; the Swedish Consul's garden, within the town; the outside walls, the old Roman bridge and the site of the old Roman city, Tanja Bolea the Tingis of the Romans, where still may be seen the dock gates for the galleys in the arsenal but which the lapse of time has left now at some distance from the sea; the magnificent lighthouse at Cape Spartel maintained by regular contributions from all nations; the lake near the Cape, and the Grind- stone caves. They will all They will all repay a visit. : About three miles from the town, on Mount Washington, are beautiful gardens, where many of the European officials, merchants of Gibraltar, and also rich Moors and Jews, have their summer residences the ride to which is most lovely and should not be omitted. There are also some good country houses on the Marshan, a flat on the heights just outside the Castle. This Marshan is a smooth grassy plain, the top of the promontory on the inner side of which the city is built the side of the promontory farthest from the town is very precipi- tous and overhangs the sea. On the edge of the precipice are a number of excavations from about one to three feet wide and varying in length, hewn in the solid rock; they are generally supposed to have been Phoenician graves; but at present they are frequently used as washing troughs by the Moorish women as after heavy rains they are generally half full. On this plain is a country house of the Grand Shereef of Wazan, Cidy Hadj Abd-Salam, who, as the most direct descendant of the Prophet, is theoretically if not actually, the greatest man in the Mohammedan world. His power is even now very great; on one occasion he quelled a rebellion by his mere presence in the Sultan's camp and he is greatly venerated by the people. His marriage to an English woman a few years ago has invested him with peculiar interest in the eyes of Europeans. He is known to the Spaniards as El Santo, and made great personal efforts in the war of 1859-60 to rouse the fanaticism of the Moors against them. Captain Colville, in his "Ride in Petticoats and Slippers," gives the following story of the Shereef as reliable :- 101 "The story of the manner in which the Shereef obtained his position is a "curious one, and reminds one strongly of that of Jacob and Esau. "The late Shereef had a favourite son. Now it so happened that the son was very fond of playing with a certain ornamental stick belonging to his father. "The old man knew of this peculiarity and being asked on his death bed which "of his sons he would nominate as his successor, replied, "The one that is found "with my stick in his hand.' There chanced to be in the room at the time a "black slave woman who had had a son by the Shereef; she, hearing the dying "man's words, ran off and gave the stick to her son, bidding him keep it. The "stick was found in his possession and he was proclaimed the most direct “descendant of the Prophet." The influence of the Shereef not only extends throughout Morocco but over Algiers, where it is acknowledged by the French authorities and where he has paid visits, at their request, to exert his influence over some turbulent tribes in the interior. Descending from the Marshan and entering the town from the highest point the best view of it is to be had. A narrow paved path leads through a high gateway with a fine pointed arch to the Casba, where is the Bashaw's house, the prison, the old treasury house, and one of the principal mosques. All here is completely shut in; but turning down one of the narrow passages and passing through another gateway which opens on the brow of a steep hill, we come suddenly upon a view of wide extent and surpassing beauty. Beneath and immediately around lies the town, all glistening white under the sun's rays. Here and there among the houses rises the tall minaret of a mosque brilliant with its many coloured mosaic, the broad waving leaves of a palmetto palm or the dark foliage of a fig- tree. The houses are nearly uniform in colour, but the flags of different nations flying from the houses of the Ministers make spots of gay colour standing out clearly against the white of the town, and the beautiful blue of the sky and water of the Bay, the latter bordered with shining yellow sands. Beyond, to the right rise the African mountains shaded with every rich and lovely tint of purple and green and gold, and some white-tipped with everlasting snow; to the left the blue sea of the Straits and the purple mountains of Spain, whilst in the further distance Gibraltar in all its grandeur is plainly visible. All is solemn and quiet, when suddenly from the minaret of the mosque rises the wailing cry of the Muezzin calling the faithful to prayer; and the traveller recognises fully that he is in an unknown country, where all things, from the very foundations of social life to its most insignificant particulars are completely changed. The prison in the Casba is never very full as summary punishments are more in vogue than incarceration. Cutting off a hand or foot is the usual punishment for theft the stump being instantly plunged into boiling pitch to stop the bleed- 102 ing. Flogging is freely employed for minor offences. On nearing the prison the window is at once crowded with unfortunates to beg, as it is believed they are entirely dependent on contributions from their friends and casual visitors for their maintenance, added to the sale of some pretty basket work which they make in prison. The prison for women is a separate but adjoining building. The ride to Cape Spartel is beautiful, the road passing over the Marshan, across the Jews' River at the end, and then by narrow lanes bordering the gardens of many beautiful summer residences of the Ministers and wealthy Moors and Jews (Raven's Rock, the fine house of the English Minister, being very noticeable); after which it continues over the mountains which are clothed with arbutus, gum and other cistuses, laurestina, broom of various kinds, coronilla, red and white heath and myrtle, a perpetual garden of flowers. The views are magnificent. Cape Spartel is a mountain of sandstone (secondary) with iron and limestone, rising abruptly from the sea and opening underneath into vast caverns, the larger of which were consecrated to Hercules. Upon the summit stands the famous lighthouse sending its beneficent warning across the tempestuous ocean to a dis- tance of twenty-five miles. The Millstone Quarries are at Mediana between two and three miles to the South, in vast caverns which have to be entered almost in darkness, and then on reaching the interior the singular blue light diffused through them shows the workmen at their labours. This light is admitted through a large aperture in the side of the cliff facing the sea. The return road from here passes through the Valley of Boubana, where the English troops under Lord Teviott suffered a disastrous defeat on the 3d May, 1664, at the hands of Gaylan the Moorish usurper, during the time of our occupation of Tangier in the time of Charles II. This event is thus quaintly described by Pepys, who was Treasurer of the Commission for managing the affairs of Tangier: "It seems my Lord Teviott's design was to go a mile and a "half out of the town to cut down a wood in which the enemy did use to lie in "ambush. He had sent several spyes; but all brought word that the way was clear, and so might be, for anybody's discovery of an enemy before you are upon "them. There they were all snapt, he and all his officers and about 200 men, "as they say; there being now left in the Garrison but four captains. This "happened the 3d of May last, being not before that day twelvemonth of his entering into his Government there; but at his going out in the morning he "said to some of his officers, Gentlemen, let us look to ourselves, for it was this "day three years that so many brave Englishmen were knocked on the head by "the Moors when Fines made his sally out."" An old map of Tangier shows that the place was strengthened by redoubts erected on the neighbouring hills, "" C 103 they being Fort Charles on the West, supposed to be on the Marshan, Fort Ann to the South and Fort Monmouth to the East, besides a Great Redoubt between Fort Ann and the town, but it was constantly besieged by the Moors. We have said that the streets of Tangier are narrow, dirty and ill-paved, and always crowded with people of different races and of the most curious types. Here the foot-passenger has to look out for himself as the heavily laden camels, mules and donkeys come past with their enormous loads; driven by wild looking creatures with their continual cries of "Arrah-zeed-arrane-mek" (go more, go to your mother) or "Baaluk-Baaluk" (by your leave). The principal street is that from the landing place at the Waterport to the outer market or Soko, passing through two barriers closed by heavy half rotten gates. Between these barriers is an open space occupied by the forges and shops of smiths and on the left a nook where formerly the bluff soldiers of our Charles II. kept guard. In this street is the Great Mosque (no Christian can enter), opposite to which are the offices of the learned Talebs (Moorish scribes); the upper fountain where black slaves scream and squabble as to who shall first fill their antique looking jars, the house of the Belgian Minister, opposite a large bare whitewashed house appropriated to the Franciscan Monks. By the kindness of the owner the beauti- ful little house of the Belgian Minister is shown to visitors during his absence in the afternoon. It is stored with an interesting and valuable collection of Moorish and other curiosities, beautifully kept and arranged with great taste and ingenuity. It has an open central court-yard paved with coloured marbles; a pretty fountain plays in the centre and beautiful flowers and tropical plants are placed around. The streets or rather lanes issuing from this main thoroughfare are tortuous and difficult; on many of the houses may be observed the rude representation of a hand painted in red intended to protect the inmates from the evil eye, in the influence of which the Moors have great belief, considering also that Christians possess it in a great degree. The whole place is well worth seeing and there is nothing more noteworthy than the constant noise in the streets; often there are great religious feasts when the whole people are out of doors and engaged in making as much noise as possible, which generally, what with beggars, itiner- ant musicians, minor rejoicings, &c., the bray of the Rheetah, an instrument somewhat like our flageolet, but with a sound more like a bag-pipe, and the bang of the tebel or Moorish drum, is seldom absent from the streets during the day, while at night the weddings which, except the very poorest, are accompanied with gun-firing and music, produce an extraordinary combination of discordant noises. The bride is taken to her husband's home in procession, in a sort of closed box, fastened on the back of a mule or donkey, the party being preceded by torch bearers; when the most melancholy music accompanying a sort of nasal chant of 104 the friends and relatives, varied by piercing yells, the barking of dogs and the discharge of muskets, make altogether a frightful din which must be extremely unpleasant to the poor bride cooped up within the box, who must be in a most painful position as she sways most insecurely with the movements of the mule over the rough and ill-paved roads. On the Soko, which is before referred to, are the Sanctuary of Seedy Mekhfee, the patron saint of the market-place; the place of public prayer, a long white- washed wall pierced with horseshoe-headed windows looking towards Mecca and in the centre a low tower, having a platform on the top and a small niche below. And near the broad road of the Ambassadors is the Kooba or alcoved tomb of Seedy Mahommed El Hadj the patron saint of Tangier. The Mahommedan burial place is on the hill to the right of the market, and the traveller should be careful to avoid treading on the graves as it is said the souls of the faithful are troubled when an infidel trespasses on their place of rest. The graves are simple mounds of earth all so placed as to point to the Prophet's tomb at Mecca, most of them with a small board at the head; those of the wealthier class being surrounded by a low and whitened wall, whilst here and there is seen an ancient tombstone carved in arabesque-a monument of their formidable ancestors. Low palmetto bushes and some wild vines creeping over a few solitary and blighted fig tress, form the scanty ornaments of the Tangier cemetery. And here on a Friday -the Mahommedan Sabbath-the dark-eyed houris of Tangier are seen, en- veloped in their white haiks and flitting like shrouded ghosts about the tombs over which wailing and lamentations are heard on every side. There is always something new to observe in Tangier. On no account should a visit to the Curiosity Shops be neglected, or to the Stores of Moorish Pottery, for at both places some curious and pretty souvenirs may be obtained of Moorish work; but let the traveller always bear in mind that the first price asked is not what is really meant to be taken, and that a little judicious bargaining will cause a very considerable relief to his pocket. There is excellent partridge and snipe shooting in the country, but not within ten miles of the town; and as there are no houses a shooting party must take everything necessary for camping out-tents and mules, provisions and servants, guides and soldiers. For although these latter gentry do nothing at all for their pay, they serve to show the country people that the party is under the protection of the Emperor and therefore not be interfered with. Tangier, the ancient Tingis, was anciently a great mart of the Phoenicians, who had a colony there. It is accounted one of the oldest cities in Africa and was formerly a very considerable place and the capital of a kingdom. This kingdom was reduced to a Roman province in the reign of Claudius. It was afterwards overran by the Spanish Goths but taken from them by the Saracens in A.D. 722. 105 Tangier has been possessed by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals and by the Mahommedans, who called it on account of its opulence, the second Mecca. s; It was taken from the Moors by the Portuguese in 1473, and in 1652 there was a famous university there. It had also sumptuous edifices and palaces and was immensely strengthened by the Portuguese against the attacks of the Moors but, finding the expense of retaining it to far exceed the advantage they gained by keeping it, as the interior of the country was always closed to them, they yielded it up to England as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, Infanta of Portugal, on her marriage with Charles II. in 1662. But the gift, like the pro- verbial white elephant, caused more trouble than it was worth. Great expectations were formed about Tangier, and it engaged to a large extent the attention of the Government of that period. Pepys, in his Diary, makes frequent mention of the place. A Commission presided over by the Duke of York sat weekly to manage its affairs, and of this Commission Pepys himself was Treasurer. The English found the same fault with it as the Portuguese-it entailed a large garrison with but little profit as a return, not to mention the con- stant attacks of the Moors; so in 1684, Lord Dartmouth, with whom was Mr. Pepys, was sent with a fleet to destroy the mole and harbour and bring away the garrison. This was done, and the town abandoned to the Moors, and in consequence of the destruction of the mole, which extended nearly two thousand feet into the sea (the remains of which are still plainly seen), the harbour has become choked. This mole, which was formed by two arms running out from the shore, was strongly fortified with batteries, and a harbour was formed capable of containing the largest vessels. Lord Dartmouth writes as follows to Mr. Pepys, Jan. 11, 1683-4:-"You "will easily imagine the condition we have beene in, by the ill weather you have "beene witness of where you have beene, but yet, God be thanked, we have strugled in it so farr that the Mole is totally destroyed; very much more than "you will imagine, till you see it." There is now no protection for shipping and even small boats cannot approach the shore within a short distance. There are, however, always plenty of Jewish porters on the beach at the Marina who, without the least hesitation, rush into the water and shoulder the traveller's luggage, and the traveller himself, to dry land. For a lady they are gallant enough to bring a wicker chair, to which she may safely trust herself although her feet are within a very few inches of the sea. A great improvement has been effected lately, viz., the erection of a wooden pier, which, stretching out into the water, is most convenient for those who have an objection to the other primitive mode of landing on a foreign soil. The Bay is well sheltered and the anchorage in the open roadstead is very good, for the • 14 106 coast is not subject to the heavy surf which is such a drawback to all the Southern ports. The rise of tide at Gibraltar, just outside the tideless Mediterranean, is four feet; at Tangier it reaches a height of six feet. On the Mahommedan Feast Days the visitor will have an opportunity of seeing the Lääb el Barood or Powder Play, one of the national customs. This either takes place on the beach outside the town at low tide, or in the Soko. Sixty or seventy Moors and soldiers, picturesquely dressed, well armed and mounted, are divided into parties of some twelve or fourteen at a time, who, starting in a line at a gallop, waving their long guns frantically over their heads and uttering wild cries, race for about a couple of hundred yards and then suddenly pull up and discharge their pieces in all directions. It is one of the strangest spectacles pos- sible. At other times they separate into two parties one in pursuit of the other, and the same thing takes place, the pursued turning round in their saddles to fire. Serious accidents often happen as they are perfectly reckless about the loading of their guns, the powder for which is carried loose in a bag on the horse and ineasured out carelessly with the hand. As part of the preparations for the siege of Gibraltar in 1779 (the original intention of the Spaniards being by a close investment to starve the Garrison into a surrender), they made secret overtures to the Emperor of Morocco to farm his ports of Tetuan, Tangier and Larache, with a view of depriving the Garrison of any supplies from that quarter. The Emperor would not accede to this at the time though from the close blockade the Garrison derived very slender and uncertain supplies from Barbary. The efforts of the English Consul at Tangier, Mr. Logie, were beyond all praise, in providing supplies and procuring a channel for the transmission of despatches; but in 1780, the Spanish Government having exhausted all the efforts of diplomacy to secure a more active alliance with the Emperor, he was induced at last by promises of large money payments to with- draw from his neutrality and he ordered all British subjects to leave his dominions; which order was followed by acts of gross indignity and cruelty to the English in Moorish ports. Mr. Logie himself was attacked, driven from his house and plun- dered, and being obliged to fly, all communication with Barbary was cut off and a valuable channel of intelligence closed up; previously there were many Moors in his pay and as a constant trade was carried on between Barbary and the Spanish camp frequent opportunities were afforded to the spies for making observations and obtaining an insight into the affairs of the army. With the expulsion of the Consul this source of information was destroyed. In those days, as now, the Moors were always friendly to the English and we read in Drinkwater that upon the commencement of the attack of the battering ships on the 13th September, 1782, the Moors at Tangier repaired to their Mosques imploring Heaven on behalf of their Old Allies, and that on receiving accounts of the defeat of the 107 enemy they made public rejoicing and gave every demonstration of their affection for the English nation. For the space it occupies Tangier is a populous town, comprising more than 15,000 inhabitants. The number of Christians is greater than in any other town of the Empire. The climate is very equable and pleasant being protected by the mountain ranges on the South from the scorching heat to which the inland parts of Morocco are exposed. Frost never occurs. The climate is moist as shown by the facility with which iron rusts, but it is less moist than that of Madeira, be- tween which and that of Algiers it holds, in this respect, an intermediate place. It is a very healthy place although the sanitary arrangements are very imperfect, the explanation being that sewer gas is only dangerous when closed up; there being no system of sewers at Tangier the gas escapes harmlessly in the open air. Tangier is of great importance to Gibraltar as providing large supplies of food, comprising beef and mutton, poultry, eggs and game; the chief part of the meat for the troops comes from the interior and is shipped at Tangier, only varied occasionally by beef from Galicia which is of a far better quality. Lord Nelson declared that the possession of Tangier would be necessary to England in case she was at war with a maritime Power, for with Tangier in the hands of an enemy or of an unfriendly Power the difficulties of holding Gibraltar would be greatly increased, as all supplies would have to run the gauntlet of an enemy's ship, supported by the guns of Tangier and Ceuta. When Morocco becomes opened up to European enterprize and capital, the development of its riches, as a possible bountiful corn-grower for Europe, will only be a question of a very short time; for at present not a hundredth part of the available land is cultivated, whilst the soil is capable of any amount of cultivation under a proper system of irrigation through its broad and wide spreading plains. Like Tangier the island of Bombay formed part of the dowry of the Infanta of Portugal, wife of Charles II. Who could then foresee the subsequent value of that small possession or what a focus for the extension of British power it has since become. And although, through mismanagement, Tangier proved to be a worse than useless possession, it is not improbable that had it been retained it also would have become a centre endowed with a like vitality and with a similar power of growth. In that case a land far more accessible than India, with a soil and climate among the most favoured in the world would now be yielding rich returns. Immense tracts which at present lie waste would be used for the growth of cotton; and a strong government would exist in place of an uncertain and op- pressive administration. ། 108 Tetuan is a Moorish town walled all round, eighteen miles from the Straits to the East- ward of Ceuta and six and a half miles from the sea of which Martine is the port. It is not easily reached in this way as there is no harhour or even an available roadstead, when the East wind blows. There is then a dangerous bar-so except when an excursion steamer goes there in the summer months, and only then when the Westerly wind is assured-there is little chance of getting at it from Gibraltar by sea. The ride from Tangier although a long business (forty miles), is well worth doing, as it will give a good idea of the interior of Morocco; and on a fine day, accompanied by a guide and a soldier, the traveller may do it with comfort to himself in about ten hours. In the Jewish quarter the house of Mr. Isaac Ñahon, who speaks English, will be open to him and he will find very comfortable beds and treatment. Tetuan is a much larger and more imposing place than Tangier but it possesses many of its features, only the entire absence of Europeans renders it more interesting as an Oriental study. The streets are very narrow and dirty, but the houses being all flat-roofed and painted white as are also the walls, look clean and bright in the sun. There are several fine mosques here, and Mr. Ñahon is able to obtain permission for a traveller to visit some of the houses of the rich Moors, which opportunity should not be neglected. The Jews in this town are kept in great subjection their quarter being locked up at night and guarded by Moorish soldiers. Tetuan was founded in 1492 by the refugees from Granada, and many of the families still retain the title-deeds of their former estates in Spain and the keys of the doors of their houses, which have long since crumbled into ruin and decay. The city is situated in a verdant valley at the foot of picturesque mountains, the highest of which called Beni Hosmar forms part of the lesser Atlas chain. The river which flows by it is flanked with orange orchards dotted with country houses. A swampy plain extends towards the sea, and through it is a good road six miles long made by the Spaniards during their three years occupation of the place. Tetuan was taken by the Spaniards in their last war with the Moors, 1859, and ransomed by the latter for a sum of £4,000,000, payable by yearly instalments. At Tetuan most of the long guns used by the Moors are made, and a visit to their small workshops where, with indifferent tools and appliances, the workmen turn out good, serviceable and, in some cases, highly, ornamented pieces is very interesting. A good deal of gold embroidery is done at Tetuan, and another industry is the manufacture of brackets, chests and other wood work ornamented with Arabesque painting in brilliant colours; slipper making and other leather work is also car- 109 ried on extensively. There is a Spanish convent at Tetuan but the success of the mission in making converts is the same as that of all missions among Moslems— none whatever (Leared). The road from Tangier to Tetuan does not possess anything very striking in point of scenery for at least three-fourths of the way. The track runs for some distance along the smooth sands of the Bay, then inland and over two small stone bridges. Plains of great extent are crossed which, with proper cultivation, might be made to produce immense quantities of grain; not that it would be of much general use while the present restrictions as to its export are in force in Morocco. A river, dry in summer, but a torrent after the rains, has to be crossed and recrossed and the flowering oleander bushes which fringe its course with crimson have a beautiful effect, as the colour of the flower is of a much darker hue than we are accustomed to in colder climes, and this belt of colour follows the winding of the stream continuously for many miles. Not quite half-way to Tetuan is the Fondak or Caravansary for travellers, 700 feet above the sea level; and near this where a little brook bubbles out from the rocks, the traveller may take his well- earned refreshment under the grateful shade of some fine olive trees. It is the custom with some people to decry Morocco as an arid wilderness, but this usually comes from only having seen it after or during the long summer drought. As a matter of fact it is one of the most fertile countries in the world, as Dr. Leared says, "A fertile waste only waiting for the hand of man to make it productive." The valleys are covered with a rich alluvial deposit, the hills are rounded and alluvial and even the main chain of the Atlas is not abrupt and its valleys are the most fertile in the empire. The road from the Fondak lays through a moun- tain pass extremely rough and rocky; in about an hour Tetuan is seen in the distance but soon disappears. It again appears and remains long in view till the traveller crosses over the stone bridge over the river that flows to the town. It was on this road, about two leages from the Fondak, that the preliminaries of peace were signed in the last war of Spain with Morocco, 1859-60, by Marshal O'Donnell, Duke of Tetuan, and the brother of the Emperor of Morocco, Mulley Abbas, after the sanguinary battle of Gualdras, on 23d March, 1860. The former had advanced from Tetuan with the intention of turning the formidable pass of the Fondak when the road would have been perfectly open to Tangier. The action commenced at a short league from Tetuan near the river and valley of the Guad-el-Ras, the river being the same which at Tetuan goes by the name of the Gual-el-Jelu. The battle was fought over a great extent of ground and resulted in the complete defeat of the Moorish army who fought with the greatest courage and determination. The treaty was signed two days after at the Spanish head quarters. Along the whole route signs of habitation are few and far between, but the few • 1-10 villagers met with in the fields show at once that the traveller is in a land similar in most respects to that with which we are all familiar from the teachings of our earliest youth, while illustrations to old editions of the Bible are brought forcibly to mind. The squalid villages are hedged with cactus and prickly pear, while the palm-tree crops up everywhere in the interior; the heavy ploughs, of the most primitive construction, drawn by the slow, patient oxen who literally "bow their "necks to the yoke;" the ploughmen and labourers armed with a yataghan while the long gun is not far off; and the Moorish mother who, working in the fields, has her infant child constantly within sight laid on a rude cradle formed of two forked sticks, with a covering from the sun-are all thoroughly Eastern. There are no signs of civilization, and the inquiring traveller, moving slowly on his way with his guide and soldier guard in front, cannot fail to wonder that in this age of progress and rapid advancement in everything, a country for which God has done so much and man so little, should still exhibit the peculiarities of centuries long past, and should still want the touch of the vivifying hand of enterprise to raise it to that condition where its natural advantages will, one day, most undoubtedly place it. FROM GIBRALTAR BY THE ROAD. To those to whom time is an object but in a small degree and for whom novelty has a charm, there are several excursions on horseback which may either be undertaken with Gibraltar as a centre, or as a point of departure merely. In either case one thing must be borne in mind-the roads in Spain are very in- different and present few marks of interest beyond the ever-varying, ever-new, and always picturesque scenery which lies, as a rule, on either side-scenery rendered still more attractive by the absence of any active signs of civilization such as are to be met with in other European countries. Everywhere in Spain the traveller cannot fail to remark the absence of trees: few are planted in the country except those which bear fruit or give shade for their Alamedas, for in truth im- mediate profit is the utilitarian standard; whilst to plant timber is a thing of forethought for others and is based on confidence in institutions which will guarantee enjoyment at a distant period: all this in a land where people live from day to day and no one thinks of the mañana, much as he talks about it, is held to be downright folly in theory and practice. In Andalusia, everything and every- body seems overcome with indomitable laziness-the summum bonum seems enfolded in the papelito, and the tinkling of an ox-bell is a complete edition of the "music of the spheres," so far as the Andalusian peasant is concerned. There are some very active realities at the halting-places notwithstanding, and a packet 111 or two of insect-powder will be found useful in correcting any superabundant energy on the part of the bichos. The people as a rule are courteous and kindly in the extreme, and do their best to make their visitors comfortable; they are also exceedingly cleanly in their household linen, however defective their sanitary arrangements may be. Let the traveller remember to be courteous and liberal in using little conventional terms of civility and not begin by ordering and hurrying people about; he will thus be met more than half way and obtain the best quarters and accommodation to be had. (C Cortesia de la boca, macho vale y poco cuesta." Always remember that every Spaniard (be his class what it may) considers himself a caballero, or gentle- man, and therefore your equal. When his self-esteem and personal sensitiveness are once conciliated he is quick to return the compliment and to pay every deference to the judicious stranger by whom he is put in his proper place: all attempt to bully and browbeat is loss of time, for Spaniards are not to be driven by a rod of iron, still less if wielded by a foreigner. When on a riding journey, attend to the provend, for, except in the recognized halting places the larders at the Ventas are generally empty, although the ventero will answer, as in the time of Don Quijote, Hay de todo, "there is everything,' but de lo que Vd. trae " of what you bring with you" must be understood. " The regular muleteers and carriers who ply from fixed places to others make the best guides as these arrieros (arré; arabice, "gee up") are always well acquainted with the state of the roads, fords, &c., &c., &c. The beggars are the plague of Spain and worry and bleed the traveller as effec- tually as the mosquitos. The best reply to their pertinacity is Perdone Vd. por Dios, hermano! "Excuse me, my brother, for God's sake." If this request be gravely said the mendicant gives up hope of coppers, while any other reply, such as a refusal or inattention, only encourages importunity. To sum up, there are drawbacks to travelling on horseback in Andalusia but they are far out balanced by the beauty of the scenery and the novelty of the life. The best time to travel is either in the early spring, when the winter rains have tinted the woods and forests with green, or after the second rains, just before the sun has attained its summer strength. Gibraltar to Ronda.-Twelve Leagues. HOW TO GET THERE. As on a long day's journey everyone is anxious to know how near is the end, it must be borne in mind that all distances are computed by leagues, and that the Spanish league is a very variable measure of distance and entirely dependent on 112 the state of the road. It may roughly be estimated at an hour's ride varying from three to five miles, but this only on very good ground, otherwise it may take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. This is a good thing to remember and will save some disappointment particularly if ladies are of the party. It must also be remembered that while the accommodation for man is very fairly good on this short excursion into Spain, that for beast is as bad as can be, therefore a choice should be made of a good guide who will look after the horses (as no service will be found otherwise) and attend to what he is told; while a water brush for the feet, a sponge and rubber, head collars with ropes, and rugs and rollers for night (of the very oldest as no bedding is to be obtained except chopped straw, and that in sufficient quantity is somewhat expensive) should form an indispensable portion of the travelling kit. They all go on the guide's horse or mule and add but little to the slight baggage necessary for the traveller's comfort. A few nails and a spare fore and hind shoe should not be forgotten, as the road in some places is awful and is likely to tear off the best fastened shoe. The horses being thus provided for a few luxuries may be almost considered indispensable for the rider. If one is fastidious a silver or plated fork will not take up much room, but without fail take salt, soap and tea, the former being coarse and bad at the inns, while nothing is more refreshing after a long slow journey than the "cup that cheers, &c.," and while the coffee in Spain is fair and the chocolate delicious, the tea even where it can be obtained is simply undrinkable. These small articles will not over-burden the wallets which should certainly be carried on the saddle if only to hold a little refreshment for the mid- day halt, as no supplies can be depended on at the Ventas although a feed for the horses is always to be had there. The traveller will not of course have for- gotton the sinews of war, but let him be careful to include among them a number of pesetas and half pesetas, as they will be found most convenient, for, as the Scotchman said of sixpences, "They are canny little dogs and often do the work "of shillings," which saves some money in the end. Well then, all these things having been provided, horses saddled, shoes well looked to and the guide and his horse ready with baggage slung on either side, while the rugs make him a com- fortable seat, the traveller makes his start; early, remember; say at seven o'clock, no later, for to Gaucin he has under ordinary circumstances, an eight hours' ride. If a lady is of the party they will scarcely do it in less, but if not and the guide will push on over the easy places a little over seven hours ought to reach the mountain town. There are two roads to Gaucin from Gibraltar, one by San Roque and thence down the hill on the Eastern side by the Venta de Odon, lying in a valley between the hills, and the road between the Lorca and Alcadezar Crags, leaving the Mara- jamboo Woods on the left, and past the new pueblo of Tesorillo to the Venta de Asebuchal (five hours) where a halt should be made for lunch and to feed the 113 horses, after which the road passes along the valley of the Guadiaro and the Jennal, but after passing along the junction of these two rivers, a ford called the Pasada Real, the line of the Jennal alone is followed by the Venta de los Nogales, along and across the river bed up to the foot of Gaucin Hill. The other road and undoubtedly the best is by the Eastern Beach, over Mar- shall's Bank to the village of Guadiaro (two and a half hours), crossing the river there, when the road lays for a very long distance along the valley and one can jog along to the Venta de los Nogales where the same road is struck to the foot of Gaucin Hill. The midday halt by this route is at the Venta de la Palma (three and a half hours). The state of the river exercises a considerable influence on the choice of routes as in wet weather or after heavy rains that by the Venta de Asebuchal is the one to take as the Guardiaro can be crossed in a ferry-boat higher up than the Pasada Real, which is then most probably dangerously high. From the foot of Gaucin Hill the traveller is distant from the "English Hotel' (Parador de los Ingleses), a little more than an hour's ride over a terrible road. Good accommodation is found there and at moderate charges. For dinner, including country wine, breakfast next morning and some provision for the journey for next day the charges are-Travellers, each 35 rvn.; guide, 10 rvn.; lunch, 6 rvn.; horses, 12 rvn. The traveller will do well to remember that there is a shoeing-forge next door to the "Hotel," for the road for the next day is terrible. "" There are two roads from Gaucin to Ronda, the upper or mountain road by Atajate, the lower by the Cortes Valley. To any one who desires to see magnifi- cent bits of mountain scenery the upper road should be taken to Ronda and the lower from it, the latter being at least a league farther but not such bad going. It is a six hours' ride by the upper road and must all be done at a walk, Atajate being as near as possible half way, but it is scarcely worth while to halt there except to wash out the horses' mouth at the fountain in the village. Ronda is first caught sight of when within an hour and a half off, and the sight is most welcome after the difficult though very grand and impressive ride. There are two hotels in Ronda-one by the bridge, La Posada de Vista Hermosa, an inn of the old Spanish style but very clean and comfortable with good attend- ance; and the other the Fonda Rondeña, a modern house, in the Plaza de los Socorros. We can only speak of the former which is magnificently placed on the very edge of the Tajo, and if the traveller is able to get the room with a balcony hanging directly over the depths he will have an opportunity of gazing to the full, at all hours, on this grand freak of nature which has cleft the rocky wall in so tremendous a chasm. The charges at the bridge Hotel are as nearly as pos- sible the same as at Gaucin, indeed hardly as much, 30 and 10 rvn. instead of 35 and 12 for man and horse. That for the guide, however, is higher, 15 rvr. On leaving Ronda take the lower road by the Cortes Valley, six and a half nu .", 15 114 hours to Gaucin; the river is reached in three quarters of an hour from the start, and half an hour after that the Cueva del Gato is seen. The halting place is at the Ventorillo de Jimera (three hours), shortly after which the river is left and the road passes through scanty woods, and at last we get a little bit of mountain road to Gaucin. It may be added that if time is an object, by leaving Gaucin for Ronda early, say seven o'clock, there will be ample time for the sights of Ronda the same afternoon, and the return journey may be commenced next morning. Two more hints and we have done. The boys at Gaucin and Ronda are most importunate the former with their cry of "Ochavo" "Ochavito " almost a similar meaning to the well-known shibboleth of our neighbourhood "Johnny: Penny "—but moderated in amount; and those of Ronda look upon a stranger as a lawful prey and are importunate and most troublesome. It is a good plan to hire a boy to show the places, arm him with a big stick and warn him that his remuneration will entirely depend on his success in keeping off from the travellers' sacred person the rest of the marauders. Gaucin and Ronda. WHAT TO SEE. Gaucin is most romantically situated in a cleft ridge on the wall barrier to the frontier of Granada, where it crests the height like a watchful sentinel, the moun- tain wall presenting a splendid appearance to the traveller who has reached it from Gibraltar after crossing and re-crossing the oleander fringed Jennal at the foot. The road which scales it is a tremendous ascent by a sort of dislocated staircase in a hanging garden, as beautiful orange groves lie at the foot from which the town is a good hour's ride. In Gaucin, Guzman el Bueno was killed; the Moorish castle, much shattered by an explosion, is worth visiting if only on account of the glorious view where Gibraltar rises, as if from a plain in the dis- tance and the blue Mediterranean and the African coast loom beyond. Height of Gaucin above the sea level 2,050 feet. The ride to Ronda from Gaucin by the upper road threads hill and dale along the edge of precipices and affords many glorious views and the enjoyment of the wildest scenery, the highest point on the road is 3,300 feet above the sea. Here we pass Moorish villages built on heights with Moorish names and half Moorish peasantry, who cultivate every patch of the mountain sides, turning them into hanging gardens and bringing up earth from below in baskets. The natural strength of this country has from time immemorial suggested sites for "hill forts," the type of which is clearly Oriental: they are perched everywhere like eagles' nests on the heights, and are the homes of brave highlanders who formed the raw material of Guerilleros in the struggles of the Peninsula, when the French were constantly beaten back by these sharpshooters. 115 The midday halt is at Atajate, a village after the true Spanish type, and a little more than half-way. The scenery is all on the same grand rocky model, until about a league and a half from Ronda, when that capital of the old Moors first comes into view, nestling in the midst of its vega, and relieved upon an azure blue mountainous background. The town lies on a table land, a gentle descent for the last hour leading to the foot of it. It is of considerable size, famous for fruit, but possessing no buildings of interest, except one old ruin, said to have been a palace of the Moors. In the centre of the town is a bridge dividing the old portion from the new, crossing the Tajo, with several waterfalls underneath, and renowned in the district as a most romantic bit of scenery. On the right stands an old Roman bridge. The bull-ring, originally built for a place of arins, is one of the finest in Spain. Ronda, the Arunda of Pliny, elevated amidst its mountains, enjoys at once the fresh breezes from the sea and the open country; the air is pure and bracing and the mornings and evenings are extremely cool; the town is consequently much resorted to in summer by the parched inhabitants of the hotter districts. Being highly salubrious the longevity of the place is proverbial. It is one of the most picturesque cities in Europe, the Moorish town being divided from the new quarter by the Tajo, a stupendous rent in the mountain, some two hundred feet in width and three hundred and fifty deep; the old town is only accessible from the South by a narrow and difficult ascent guarded by a fort. It was the last stronghold of the Moors in Spain, and taken by surprise by Ferdinand in 1485. The town hangs on a rock girt with the river Guadalvin (the deep stream), called lower down the Guadiaro. Those in search of the picturesque should begin at the old bridge of San Miguel and descend to the mill below. The modern bridge, which is at the other end of Ronda, was built in 1761 by José Martin Aldeguela, who was subsequently dashed to pieces by falling from the parapet into the chasm below. It consists of one noble arch of one hundred and ten feet, with a mean height above the rocky foundation of two hundred and ninety feet. Beneath the pavement of the bridge is the city bride- well where prisoners for short sentences are incarcerated. Looking over the parapet the Moorish mills look like toy cottages and the miller men like white ants. Now descend to the level of the lowest mill, passing out of Ronda by the old castle, and the view from thence, looking up, is unrivalled. The arch across the Tajo hangs some 600 feet above; the river, which, black as Styx, has long struggled heard, but not seen-in its rocky prison, here comes dashing joyously down into life and liberty and the waters boil in the bright burning sun, leaping from rock to rock, until at last they subside into a gentle stream stealing down a fertile valley of flowers and fruit. In the town, visit the Dominican convent, 116 the Moorish towers, La Casa del Rey Moro in the Calle San Pedro, built in 1042 by Al Motadhed, who drank his wine out of jewel-studded goblets made of the skulls of those whom he had beheaded. Here is La Mina de Ronda, a staircase cut in the solid rock down to the river. This, however, is now partly blocked up by rubbish, but some large rooms hollowed out of the rock and looking like dungeons can be seen. The house itself has no traces of antiquity. Descend to the Nereid's Grotto below which was dug by Christian slaves in 1342. The view from the Alameda over the vega, with the mountain panorama to the right, is one of the finest in the world, the gardens themselves being situated on the verge of a perpendicular cliff, whence is an almost sheer descent of nearly 1,000 feet to the level of the valley below. Height of Ronda above the sea level 2,500 feet. Ronda is an intricate old Moorish town. The houses are small, the doors made of the fine Nogal or Walnut which abounds in the valleys. It is the cool summer residence for the wealthy from Malaga, Seville, &c. The bull-ring, with its cells for the bulls and contrivances for letting them in and out, is well worth an examination. The bull-fights take place during the fair-time in May, and as this is the season of the place, charges are generally higher. This fair is for leather, saddlery, embroidered gaiters, garters, mantas, and horses. Excursions may be made to Ronda la Vieja, two leagues North of Ronda, which, being the ancient city, has, as usual, been used up as a quarry for the newer one, and these ruins, considerable in 1747, now scarcely exist, as the Ronda Corporations have been such busy Vandals. In returning to Gibraltar, the lower road by the Cortes Valley, should be taken. It is about one league longer than the upper road, but not so severe. The valley commences about a league from Ronda, the road running for three times that distance along the River Guadiaro and the side of the overhanging mountains. About half an hour's ride from this point where the river is reached, brings the rider to the Cueva del Gato on the right, remarkable for the water from the high ground on the other side having forced its way through the solid rocks, its solitary means of joining the river. The entrance, like a lofty porch, is in the face of a perpendicular cliff and approachable only by climbing over rather precipitous rocks. The acanthus grows in all the crevices of the grey stone and the wild vine and fig tree entwine across the entrance. The peasants say it continues for the space of a league into the mountain; stalactites hang from the lofty roof, and the whole presents a very grand and wild appearance. These caves have often served as a refuge in time of war. The halting-place in the middle of the day is called the Ventorillo de Jimera. This road is only passable with any degree of comfort in dry weather. Ronda to Granada, This may be ridden easily in two days and a half: Campillos forming the sleep- 117 ing-ground on the first day (nine hours' ride), and Loja on the second day (twelve hours' ride, allowing one for baiting). At Loja the railway is reached. Here The halting-place on the road to Campillos is at the Venta del Puerto. Nature, enthroned in her Alpine heights and green-carpeted valleys, has lavished beauty and fertility around: Man alone and his dwellings are poverty-stricken. About half-way on Teba rises up on the right. It was recovered from the Moors in 1323, by Alonso XI. The Salina or Salt Lake, distant two leagues, forms a striking object from Campillos. Antequera lies out of the direct road, but is well worth a visit. It was re- covered from the Moors in 1410 by the Regent Fernando, who gave the city for arms the badge of his military order, La Terraza, the "vase;" (quasi de terrá), the pot of lilies of the Virgin under which the mystery of the divine incarnation was shrouded. It is clean and well built. Ascend the Torre Mocha, with its incongruous modern belfry. The view is striking. In front the Lover's Rock rises out of the plain; and to the right the three conical hills of Archidona. From the Lover's Rock, it is said, a Moorish maiden and a Christian knight, with whom she was eloping, precipitated themselves to avoid falling into the hands of their pursuers. Antequera is the place selected by the proverb, which indicates the tendency (not however particular to Spaniards) of each person to take care of himself. Salga el sol por Antequera, venga lo que viniere, el último mɔno se ahoga (I'll be off for the last monkey is drowned). Leaving the Rock to the left, and passing a pretty olive-grove, the road turns to Archidona, and then winds to Loja, which is as its Arabic name implies, the guardian, the advanced sentinel of the Vega of Granada. The view is most picturesque. The Castle towers from a rock in the middle of the town; below runs the Genil, crossed by a Moorish bridge; while beyond rises the Sierra Nevada with its diadem of snow. Ferdinand and Isabella besieged it in 1488 and took it after thirty-four days siege, very much by the aid of the English archers under Lord Rivers. From Granada to Malaga is also a journey of two days and a half, although only a few hours by train and diligence, Alhama and Loja being the respective halting places, and the sight of the former city, renowned in history, is amply sufficient to compensate for any trouble. Alhama is so called from its baths- Al-hammám (whence our Hummums in Covent Garden). The number of these which existed in the time of the cleanly Romans and Moors is amply evidenced by the frequent recurrence of places called calidas or caldas, hot springs and alhamas. The town, wild and picturesque, is the Ronda of the Alpine districts and is perched on the edge of an awful rent in the hills, round which the River Marchan sweeps. It was the land-key of Granada and its romantic capture in 1482 spread consternation into the Alhambra and paved the way for the final conquest of 118 Granada. The well-known plaintive ballad commencing Ay! de mi Alhama ! which Byron translated, "Woe is me, Alhama!" but it should be "Alas! for my Alhama!" expressed the national lamentation of the Moors. The mineral baths are a short distance from the town: the waters issue out of a dip in the hills in that sort of position so common to warm volcanic springs. They are considered beneficial for dyspepsia and rheumatism. The view of the Tajo from the Convent is striking; Ronda on a smaller scale. From Malaga to Gibraltar. is about two days hardish work. For the most part the return journey is made along the carretera or high road, such as it is. Marbella is the limit of the first day's journey, a pretty town with a pretty name. Queen Isabella is said to have exclaimed when visiting it with her victorious husband, "Que Mar tan bella." It rises amidst groves and gardens backed by the Sierra Blanca, for here verdant hills are called white as azure streams are green. Marbella is frail and fair and like Potiphar's wife, is said to steal raiment- Marbella es bella, no entres en ella : Quien entra con capa sale sin ella. The views from the Alameda are charming. Thirteen miles from Marbella is the hamlet and castle of Munda where the Waterloo of antiquity is supposed to have been fought, when Cæsar (47 a.c.) defeated the sons of Pompey and was left a conqueror without a rival-the world with one master. The exact site is unknown. The next day's ride, still along the high road, brings the traveller to Estepona, the fruit garden from whence Gibraltar derives no inconsiderable portion of its supplies. It was built in 1456 from a ruined Moorish town. On the hills to the left is Manilva, the hedionda or fetid Harrowgate waters of the coast. The spring offends the nose and palate but benefits the stomach. The smell and taste, according to local legends, are attributed to the farewell sigh of a water- devil who, on being expelled by Santiago evaporated with a sulphurous twang. (C Between Marbella and Estepona is the Rio Verde, or Green River. This wild oleander-fringed mountain torrent is translated by Bishop Percy as a gentle river with a willowed shore;" but he could not assuredly have seen it when swollen by heavy rains when it is nearly, if not quite impassable. At Estepona a halt should be made for breakfast and then a ride of seven leagues along the shore of the Mediterranean terminates in Gibraltar. These routes have been dealt with somewhat at length, as being the most picturesque and most likely to give travellers a good idea of Andalusia. 119 Gibraltar to Cadiz. There are two roads-one by Algeciras, Tarifa, Vejer, Chiclana and San Fernando, three short days in all, seven leagues per diem, with Tarifa and Vejer as halting- places for the night; and the other a two days' ride each of eight and a half leagues, by Casas Viejas where the night must be spent, and which is a great shooting-ground for snipe and duck in the season, greatly affected by Gibraltar sportsmen. Vejer is a true specimen of a Moorish town, scrambling up a precipitous em- inence; the Venta lies below near the bridge over the Barbate. A mile inland is the Laguna de Jauda, near which Taric landing from Africa (711) encoun- tered Roderick the last of the Goths, and the result of the battle gave Spain to the Moslem. On the road from Vejer to Chiclana where the tract enters into wild, sandy, aromatic pine-clad solitudes, on the left rises the immortal knoll of Barrosa where less than 4,500 English (among them the 87th, the Eagle Catchers) and Portu- guese, under Graham, after twenty-four hours of intense toil and starvation defeated Victor's army, without the least assistance from the Spaniards 12,000 strong under La Peña aptly described as a fool and a coward. No single stroke was struck that day by Spanish sabre. "Socorros de España tarde o nunca," is a favourite Spanish proverb and amply was it illustrated on that day. Graham thought is necessary to apologize to the Duke of Wellington for the rashness of attacking with his handful, two entire French divisions. Spanish historians either do not mention the English at all in this battle or attribute the ultimate failure of the expedition to raise the Siege of Cadiz, to our retreat. The French say the loss of the Eagles was solely owing to the accidental death of the Ensigns. Chiclana looks pretty from afar, with its white houses, gardens and painted railings; but it is ill-paved, drained and lighted. The air is pure and the baths luxurious. From the hill of Santa Ana is a good panorama: three leagues off, on a hill, basks Medina Sidonia, famous for its sulphur baths; it gives the ducal title to the descendants of Guzman (El Bueno), to whom all the lands lying between the Guardiaro and the Guadalete were granted for his defence of Tarifa, when the Moors put to death his only son who had fallen into their hands, as they had threatened to do if he would not surrender the place. San Fernando is the capital of La Isla de Leon. Salt is the staple, made in the salinas and marshes below, where lie enormous heaps piled up like mountains of rather dirty snow. Gibraltar Round the Neighbourhood. A five days' ride may be taken as follows:-1st day. Gibraltar to Algeciras, 24 hours; Algeciras to Tarifa, 34 hours. + 120 2nd day.―Tarifa to Vejer, 8 hours, including one hour's halt for lunch. 3rd day.-Vejer to Conil, 24 hours; Conil was formerly famous for its tunny fishery; it is one league from Cape Trafalgar whose long, low, sandy lines stretch towards Tarifa. It was off this Cape that the immortal Nelson sealed with his life's blood his country's supremacy over the ocean. On the memorable 21st October, 1805, with twenty-seven small ships of the line and four frigates he engaged the French under Villeneuve and the Spaniards under Admiral Gravina, together thirty-three sail of the line and seven frigates. Nelson was wounded at a quarter before one and died on board his beloved "Victory " at half-past four. The Spaniards fought well at Trafalgar; their noble commander being also mor- tally wounded died soon after Nelson. Almost with his last breath he told the English medical man (Dr. Fellows) that he was going to join Nelson, the "great- "est man the world has ever produced."-Conil to Chiclana, via the battle-field of Barrosa, 4 hours. 4th day.—Chiclana to Medina Sidonia, 3 hours; and thence to Casas Viejas, 3 hours. 5th day.-Cases Viejas to Venta de Polverilla, 6 hours, and thence to the old Rock again, 4 hours. El Convento del Cuervo. This is a twenty-two miles ride, and two days are best taken. Ride out in the afternoon and sleep at Los Barrios, and next day to the Convent, which was built during the reign of Charles V. as a place of penance for monks convicted of heinous crimes. The dungeons may be visited. The ride back to Gibraltar will take about six hours. Finally, a day's journey varies from eight to ten hours' riding and an hour for lunch, and uncommonly hard riding some of it is; but with a good Spanish horse. the traveller will soon cease to be nervous about his route, for it has the endu- rance and the sure-footedness of that other humble and patient animal with which it must be intimately connected in lineage. Let the traveller remember that he will have to "rough" it, and that he will find it difficult to repair damages at any of his halting-places; therefore his travelling equipage, both for horse and man, should be of the best order; let him not be too particular about the food, for "God there sends the meat and the evil one cooks" in most places out of the beaten track; let him not forget a plentiful supply of vermin powder or very strong snuff which will keep off at least a portion of his nightly visitants and with these precautions and a sensibility for enjoyment of the beauties of 121 nature, her rocks and table lands, her woods and rivers, he may bring away from his travels many pleasant recollections of the beauties of Andalusia, for so many years the Paradise of the Moors, whose former greatness is well exemplified by the quaint illustrations they have left of their culture and energy. WEIGHTS, MEASURES. &c. The following details may be useful for travellers by road :- A metro Kilometro Legua (league) Corta legua (short do.) Larga legua (long do) Vara (a yard) Pie (foot) English foot English mile DISTANCE. 1 yard 3 inches, or 1 vara 7 pulgadas. 1,093 yards 2 inches. 5,555 kil. 3 English miles. 3 miles. from 4 to 5 miles. is = 3 pies (feet) 2.782 feet English. 12 pulgadas (inches). 13 Spanish inches. 1,925 Spanish yards. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Arroba Kilo 25 lbs. = 2 lbs. Fanega (straked) of barley 72 lbs. about. do. of wheat 96 lbs. CC (heaped) beans 115 lbs. " tr do. maize 118 lbs. " do. peas (garbanzos) 122 lbs. " : SHOOTING EXPEDITIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. HINTS AND GENERAL DIRECTIONS. For shooting in Spain a license is required; for carrying arms and for sporting ; 16 122 -obtain d through the Spanish Consul from the Civil Governor at Cadiz-the cost is $4 for the licenses, $2 fee at the Consulate, and 3 rvn. for the stamped paper on which the application is made. The stamped paper (papel sellado) can- not be obtained in Gibraltar, but at the Estanco Nacional at Linea, or at any Spanish town. The application must be endorsed by the Alcalde of Linea or San Roque. For form of application see Directory part. Casas Viejas. There are two roads to Casas Viejas generally used by sportsmen. To take the shorter one you must ford the first river opposite Villegas, and follow the road which, passing immediately behind Marcellino, takes you over the hills at the back and crosses the Agua Corto. You then leave Patron's farm and la Cañada del Infierno* on your right, and follow the narrow mountain path until you reach Polvorillo a miserable hovel but the only house you meet on the road after leaving Marcellino (19 miles). A short halt is generally made here for lunch or to rest the baggage animals. The path now leads through a mountainous country intersected by deep watercourses, which constitute the real difficulty of the road -in fact crossing them is sometimes attended with danger-for a few hours rain converts them from almost dry ditches to mountain torrents. The beds of these watercourses are full of large boulders, among which you have to wend your way, and therefore should the water be running smoothly, that is to say, should it be so deep that the boulders do not disturb the surface, it is as well to take the advice of the muleteers and not attempt to cross. Of these dangerous fords there are three, and during heavy rain they rise so rapidly that horsemen have been known to cross the first and when, after vainly trying to ford the second, they turned back they found that the first had also become unfordable. Having crossed the last of these gargantas, as the natives call them, one's troubles are at an end; and in about an hour you descend on to a large plain watered by numerous streams, and you see Casas Viejas lying on a hill on the opposite side. This route is the shortest one and is about forty miles, and can be done on horseback, if unencumbered by luggage, in eight hours.† The baggage animals will, as a rule, take ten hours. This route should not be attempted except in fine weather for the reasons already given; and on no account be persuaded to break the journey and sleep at Polvorillo: it has no decent accommodation, no beds, and swarms with fleas, chinches, &c. * The road thus far can easily be traced on the Hunting Map. A party of officers in 1876 did the distance in six hours. They had never been over the road before and had no guide. 1 123 After or during wet weather the route by Tarifa is the better one. You ride round by Algeciras to Tarifa and stay there the first night; starting early the next morning you follow the high road to Vejer for three hours or perhaps a little more until you arrive close to the small village of Taivilla perched on the side of a hill; here you leave the high road, and bearing a little to your right you pass close under this village, and travelling a little West of North across large plains, intersected here and there by low grassy hills and small streams, you ought to arrive at Casas Viejas in time to have a couple of hours snipe shooting before dusk; to do this however it is advisable to send on the baggage animals an hour or two in advance. A good plan is to stop a few days at Tapatanilla, a little beyond Taivilla, and then go on to Casas Viejas, 12 miles distant, or to the Cortijo Mediana on the Mesa, which is half way between the two places. The ride from Gibraltar to Tapatanilla via Tarifa can be easily done in a day if an early start is made, the distance being about 50 miles. At Tapatanilla, by the side of the diligence road to Vejer, there is a small house known to all the muleteers where fair accommodation can be obtained, also stabling for horses, but it is advisable to take one's own bedding; a soldier's bed tick, easily bor- rowed in Gibraltar, answers admirably as it can be taken empty and filled on the spot with chopped straw. This house is near La Janda and close to the small or, as it is called, Laguna Tarifa where, before the country is flooded by heavy rain, the duck-shooting is excellent, and at the latter lagoon (Tarifa) with perseverance and luck a good many geese may be shot at "flight "`time. As regards "flight-shooting," the cranes come in first, just at sunset, then the duck and last of all the geese which are very late, often not arriving till it is almost too dark to see them. After a few days at Tapatanilla a move is advisable to either the Mesa or Casas Viejas, and at the latter place the Malabrigo, Molino and a soto just below the village are pretty sure to be found full of suipe. The Mediana soto, below the Mesa, is also excellent for snipe, and in the small river near it one is sure to find a few duck and teal. On the tableland of the Mesa late in the year golden plover are found in enormous flocks and are easily "driven," on one occasion thirty-one birds were killed by a right and left into "the brown" of one of these large flights. On the Mesa there are also a few hares and quail, and several flocks of lesser bustard can be seen, but it is almost impossible to get at them. At the Cortijo Mediana, on the edge of the Mesa, there is good accommodation for man and beast, but one's own bedding is a necessity for the fleas are in swarms. 124 1 At Casas Viejas the best-in fact we believe the only-house to put up at is La Posada de Juan Villarba. The place is clean and the host not only most attentive but moderate in his charges. As far as we can recollect the last time we were there he charged 14 rvn. for ourselves and 5 rvn. for our servants and mule-drivers per diem for board and lodging, and 4 rvn. per diem for each mule or horse, giving these two feeds of corn a day. Provisions here are not plentiful, and lack variety, fowls and eggs being the staple articles. You must therefore provide yourself with a fair amount of tinned meats and soups for your lunch, and which often come in as a grateful addition to your dinner; also with rice, coffee, tea, salt, pepper, mustard, &c., sherry, claret, brandy or whisky.* It is also advisable to take a few jars of Hollands, for the use of the drivers; it is not only an economy but a dram administered to them at judicious intervals has a wonderful effect on the pace of the baggage animals. The panniers should be covered with some water-proof stuff, as rain comes on very suddenly sometimes. A guide is not an absolute necessity, but unless one is well acquainted with Spanish it is well to have one, as you are thus enabled to obtain many little comforts such as hot water, a tub, &c., so essential to the comfort of a sportsman and so keenly appreciated after a hard day's work. One word however about guides. Don't let them cater for you at Casas Viejas or anywhere else; they simply double your expenses, buying fowls, &c., from the country people for next to nothing and charging you Gibraltar starvation prices. Leave all this to Vil- larba and you will have no cause to grumble. Drivers and fairly good baggage animals can be obtained at Campamento or San Roque, at a daily charge of 16 rvn. for each driver and 12 rvn. for each horse or mule; in addition to this you have to board and lodge both man and beast; but all the prices given are subject to alterations, being influenced by circumstances too numerous to enter into in this short notice. Thus a good harvest raises the price of horse and mule hire for irregular work, and a bad year raises the price of fowls and eggs. A party of three with a guide or servant can manage comfort- ably with three mules and two drivers, and their expenses ought not to exceed twelve to fourteen shillings each a day, exclusive of what they may pay the guide. The sport is very varied, but snipe shooting is the best; a bag of twenty-eight or thirty couple to one gun being no uncommon result of one day's shooting.† The snipe are found in the marshes, which commencing at the foot of Casas Viejas run Westward towards Vejer. * There is no drink to be obtained in the village except good common country wine (manzanilla) and aguardiente and not always these. + Several bags of fifty couples have been made, and in 1879 an officer of the Rifle Brigade shot forty couples in two hours at Tapat inilla not far from Casas Viejas, 125 In some seasons, about November and December, if the weather has been dry, the snipe shooting is equal to any that can be obtained; but all depends upon the weather, which if wet causes the birds to disperse over the whole country, while if it be dry they remain in the sótos or marshes, and when flushed return almost immediately. Suipe, as a rule, in Andalusia are far more wild than in other countries, which is, no doubt, caused by the nature of the marshes, which often quite dry at the end of summer, are in winter regular lakes, only at their edges affording any resting places for the snipe (Agachadiza), the cover being usually thin and bare. It is as well to take a cazador or professional sportsman with you, not only to show you the favourite haunts of the birds but also to point out the treacherous spots in the marshes, for though these are nearly quite dry in summer, and in winter when flooded afford a firm and secure footing generally, yet there are spots which owing to the presence of springs are really dangerous-fortunately for the sportsman there are but few of these places. On the plains on either side of the marshes you find hares, quail, green and golden plover (Chorlito), and on the grassy hills the lesser bustard (Sison, Fran- colino). This latter is very hard to approach and your only chance is to have them driven towards you, and even then it is difficult to obtain a shot as they fly high. The great bustard (Abutarda) is also found on the plains before the crops are cut, and you must employ the same tactics, but you have a better chance of obtaining a shot as they fly low. The best time is usually at the end of March when the corn is sufficiently high to shelter the guns, but the diversion of bustard driving is rather expensive and often, like the Irishman's pig, they refuse to be driven in the required direction. In August, near Casas Viejas and no doubt at other places, the Spaniards ride down bustards with dogs, continually flushing them till they are exhausted; but probably young birds only are thus caught. They are also said to tire out the red-legged partridge in the same way. In summer, quail (Codorniz) are universally distributed all over the cultivated country; in autumn the best place to shoot them is in the maize fields or rather stubbles. The Andalusia cazadores profess to recognize two kinds of quail, those which are migratory, called "criollas," and those which are resident, and so named "castellanas? In hard winters, more especially when there has been little rain, large quantities of water-fowl are to be found in the lagoons and marshes, and a ride of two or three hours takes one to La Laguna de la Jauda, where occasionally there is most excellent wild goose shooting. For full particulars of this sort of shooting we cannot do better than refer the reader to Lieut.-Colonel Irby's work, "Ornitho- logy of the Straits of Gibraltar." One last word. Remember to take a couple of blankets with you, for the .. 126 nights are cold at Casas Viejas and bed-clothing scanty, but the beds themselves are very comfortable and clean and quite free from troublesome bichos. Ibex Shooting on the Sierra Bermeja, near Estepona. The distance from Gibraltar to Estepona is seven Spanish leagues, equal to twenty-five or thirty English miles. The road for the greater part of the distance is along the Eastern Beach and very uninteresting. On leaving Estepona for the Sierra, two and a half leagues of the way is along a good carriage road, and half a league of mountain foot-path, and you then come to a small village called Ben- najabi (which is not to be found in the Maps of Spain), and here the beaters will be found waiting; arrangements having been made for them at least two days before the arrival of the party, by a letter to José Montesino at Bennajabi; this letter should be written in Spanish and sent via Estepona some days before. From Bennajabi to El Caporal, where the tents are usually pitched, is a distance of about three leagues; the scenery here is magnificent. At El Caporal there is only a small hut occupied by one of the guards or keepers on the estate, the greater part of which is owned by Mr. Thomas Heredia, of Malaga. Mr. Sal- vador Buendiaz, Mr. Heredia's Administrador at Estepona, should be written to beforehand and he will then give instructions to the keepers to be civil to the visitors. El Caporal is situated between two of the mountain spurs and is generally chosen as a camping ground, as a small river passes close by; this river is some- times however difficult to cross and a better camping ground is at a spot higher up the Sierra called La Cueva, where there is a spring of good water, and by camping here the crossing of the river twice a day is avoided. Instead of tents it is better to have a hut built, especially if there are in the party, as there should be, eight guns; the cost of building the hut is not more than what would have to be paid for baggage animals carrying the tents, and the hut itself is preferable to tents in wet weather. It must be borne in mind that nothing except water and wood is to be had either at El Caporal or La Cueva; everything in the way of food, &c., must be taken with the party. A good country wine and aguardiente for the men can be bought cheap at a small bodega, about ten miles from El Caporal. The aguar- diente is the most necessary, as without their glass of it morning and evening, as well as their wine for dinner, the beaters will not work. Bread should be got from Estepona by sending in a messenger on horseback, also fresh beef and mutton, as the ibex when shot is not very palatable. Partridges are occasionally seen, also pheasants, but these latter are strictly preserved. On the lower ground, near Bennajabi, deer and wild boar are to be found. 127 The cost of such a trip should not exceed $5 per day for each gun. José Montesino, at Bennajabi, should in all cases be taken as first beater, as he knows all the Sierra to perfection, having been born at El Caporal, and as a guide from Gibraltar there is no better man than John Hill who knows the country well, having been there on many occasions; he has also this advantage, he is a fair cook. The best season for ibex shooting is about September and October. It must not be supposed that the ibex shooting on these Sierras is all play. Some of the beats necessitate a departure from camp at four a.m., and it will be nine a.m. before the shooting post is reached—that is after five hours hard climb- ing up the mountain. Perhaps the sportsman remains at his post another four or five hours, probably sees no ibex and has another five hours walk down hill, and this, if possible, is even worse than going up. "( Colonel Irby says, "one is amply repaid by the magnificent scenery and the novelty of the affair, but as far as shooting goes it is a failure, and at the lowest "calculation every ibex killed by a Gibraltar party costs over £100"-but of course a great deal depends upon luck, for as many as seven heads have been brought back to Gibraltar by one party after a few days on the Sierra. Anyone who intends trying his luck with the "Cabras Montesas," as the ibex are called by the Spaniards, should provide himself with a pair of light but strong laced up boots, and have rope soles put on to them. The ordinary sole is very liable to bring one to grief, as they have no hold on the slippery rocks. The best gun to use is a double-barrel breech loading smooth bore, with ball cartridge; a rifle is dangerous, as you almost invariably have to shoot in the direction of the advancing beaters. SPORTING IN MOROCCO. As no accommodation can be obtained in the country the traveller must always camp out. Arrangements for guides, tents, baggage animals, food, &c., can be made at any of the Hotels at Tangier. Travelling is attended with more expense and less comfort than in Spain from the total absence of inns, and the necessity therefore for much extra baggage, tents, cooking appliances, &c. At country villages fowls, eggs, butter, milk, and kuskoó-soo, the national diet of Morocco, may be obtained but nothing else. Still $5 a day ought to cover all expenses except for wine and liquors. In Morocco no large game is found within the reach of the European sports- man excepting wild pigs, which are only to be obtained by the battue system of 128 driving the jungle with beaters and dogs, sitting for hours waiting for the chance "boar-hunt;" some- of a shot, a class of amusement dignified by the name of a times where the country is sufficiently open the real sport of pig-sticking can be had. For this sport parties are frequently organised by Sir J. Drummond Hay. the English Ambassador to Morocco, who is himself a "mighty hunter," and kindly extends a liberal invitation to visitors from Gibraltar to join in the sport, which is usually very successful; the Barbary horses being as sure-footed as goats over the rough country. No doubt further in the interior there is other large game; but with the exception of shooting an occasional gazelle and a few pigs, there is no opportunity of using the rifle. The small game shooting is very good; the abundance of Barbary partridges in some districts is miraculous; but when killed they are of little value in a culinary point of view, being more dry and tasteless than the Spanish redleg, now so well known in many parts of England. It is a curious fact that the Barbary partridge is the only species found on the Rock of Gibraltar and is not found on the main- land of Spain, and in the same manner the common red-legged or French partridge, plentiful and resident in Andalusia, is never known to occur on the African side of the Straits. It cannot be explained why it is not found on the Rock of Gib- raltar, as it is to be seen on the Queen of Spain's Chair, and occasionally on the plain below within a couple of miles of the Neutral Ground. The number of snipe in some seasons is very great, especially at Masharal- haddar, where and also at Ras Dowra, Larache, Sharf el Akab, Martine near Tetuan and Esmir near Ceuta as good snipe and wild fowl shooting as may be wished for can be obtained. But it is always uncertain sport, as one day swarms are met with and perhaps on the next day hardly any are to be found. The absence of roads and bridges renders the country in wet weather at times almost impossible to travel over, the tracks becoming a succession of mudholes and the rivers impassable torrents. This, added to the unpleasant certainty of living under canvas during rainy weather, is a great drawback to winter shooting. Another in my opinion insuperable objection to shooting in Morocco is that if any great quantity of game be bagged it has to be thrown away as, unless within twenty miles or so of Tangier, it is useless. The Moors being Mahometans will not eat anything killed by a Christian or infidel; and killing for the mere sake of slaughter does not come within the creed of a real sportsman. In Spain all this is very different, as any one and every one is only too glad to accept of the surplus game. In almost all parts of Morocco rabbits abound; and hares are in places plenti- ful. Woodcocks are sometimes tolerably abundant; quails, of course, are in 129 swarms during migration; and there are a great number of little bustard in the vicinity of Tangier in small flocks, but they are very wild and wary.-(Colonel Irby). SOME CURIOSITIES OF ADMINISTRATION, DISCIPLINE, &c., IN OLDEN DAYS AT GIBRALTAR. from about 1730 TO THE EARLY PART OF THE PRESENT CENTURY. Orders, &c. No asses to carry wadding to any of the batteries, but the men to carry it on their backs. Any donkeys loose in the town are to be the property of the person taking them away, and any straying on the ramparts are to be shot by the sentries. Ships coming into the Bay without showing their colours are to be fired on, and the cost of the shot recovered in the Port dues. No soldier on guard to smoke between first evening gun-fire and midnight. All masons whatsoever are to be employed on the King's works and ou no other; if any are found to have been employed on private works after this order Lord Tyrawley will have every foot of the work done pulled down. A Mr. ordered out of the Garrison for drinking the health of the Pre- tender: if he has not left in two hours he is to be turned out by force. A return of all obnoxious women to be sent to England to be sent to Town Major's Office. Fishermen are only to sell their fish after the servant of the Governor has bought what he requires. No soldiers to play at fives from 1st of June to last day of September. As the cocks at the fountain have been stopped by dirt being put into them designedly, the Governor declares that the first person who is detected in this act shall be tried for his life. Although persons are strictly forbidden to go on the Spanish Glacis, some officers of the Garrison have most courageously stormed the Lines by getting over the wall. The Spanish General is glad the sentry did not shoot them: the Eng- lish General would have been glad if he had as a warning to others. He hopes to hear no more of such school-boyish behaviour which would shame the service of the most unmilitary nation upon earth. ++ 7 17 130 If any dead cat, fowl, rat, broken glass, or dirty water, or filth is found before any person's door he shall be fined a cobb (dollar), and if the neglect cannot be fixed on any one house in particular, that and the one on either side shall pay also. All soldiers and non-commissioned officers that shall act contrary to the Articles of War that have been read to them against profaning the Lord's name and swearing shall pay one shilling for each oath agreeable to the Articles of War, or be obliged to do one day's work for the benefit of his Majesty's Garri- son where he shall be appointed, and whoever shall hear any guilty of the breach of these Orders and not inform the Town Major of the same shall be liable to the same punishment. And that all Bombadiers, Guuners and Mattrosses belonging to the Train be liable to these Orders. Whatever suttler doth not inform against men that swear in their houses con- trary to the Orders given out shall be turned out of town. 1765.-A man of the Regiment having been so wicked and cowardly as to hang himself, in order to put all the disgrace possible on such a heinous action the Commanding Officer is ordered to treat the corpse with the greatest ignominy. No Funeral Service is to be performed; the body is to be hung up by the heels for a certain time and afterwards thrown over the Line Wall like a dog or cat. A hat having becn taken from the Convent by some gentleman who left his own instead, Mr. takes this method that the gentleman may exchange hats if he pleases. [The italics are ours.-ED.] According to the Convention with the Spaniards four deserters having been returned to the Garrison, and the Governor having promised the Spanish General not to inflict the full penalty, it is ordered that one man who had added robbery to his crimes, have a piece of green put in his hat with a paper written, "Traitor "to the King and Country, Religion and a Thief," and the others a piece of yellow on their hats with a paper written, "Traitor to the King, Country and Religion." The men under sentence of the General Court Martial having signified to the General that if he would forgive the remainder of their punishment they would fight like Devils in case the place is attacked; he takes them at their word and liberates them. No gaming to be allowed in Wine Houses, particularly including the games of the Devil-and-the-Taylors and Skuttles. In case of a thick fog in the early morning the barriers at Bayside, Forbes' Guard and Landport are not to be opened till the Spanish Huts can be plainly discovered. All oysters which come from Portugal are to lie in the sea for at least a fort- night before they are brought into the Garrison, as they are found very unwhole- some without this precaution. 131 No billiards to be played after second gun-fire. If any keeper of a billiard table disobeys this Order his table shall be broken to pieces and burnt on the public parade. If sentries are attacked by bullocks in the streets or on the Line Wall, they are to retire into an embrasure or get upon the parapet; but they are not to fire inconsiderately. A Royal Salute is to be fired on laying the foundation stone of the King's Bastion, and the workmen are to be employed from gun-fire to gun-fire, including Sundays, until the work is finished. No officer or soldier for duty is to carry an umbrella. One hundred dollars reward offered for discovery of the infamous theft of drawing the charges and stealing the powder from eighteen guns and howitzers; a practice as unsoldierlike as scandalous, the punishment for which is death. When passing an officer a soldier is to put up his hand gracefully to his head, looking the officer respectfully in the face. A loose ball and a charge of powder in a cane is to be issued to each man on guard to save their cartridges. The loose ball to be carried in the cock of their hats. On account of the scarcity of flour soldiers are not to have their hair powdered till further orders. Yesterday a soldier when bathing with several of his comrades had the audacity to swim and desert; sentries are to fire on any soldier swimming beyond 50 yards if he does not return when ordered back. It having been brought to notice that the Provost Sergeant at the Moorish Castle does not inflict upon prisoners the whole of the punishment awarded, it is hereby ordered and directed that in future when any part of the punishment is not inflicted by him he shall receive the remainder himself. Inhabitants are to be permitted to be in the streets of the town or on the road to the New Mole or South Barracks till nine o'clock without a light. After nine o'clock they are not allowed to be out without a light, and no inhabitant is to be out after ten o'clock without having a permit as well as a light. There will be a patrol of inhabitants at night to prevent robberies; they will have permits from the Town Major. The military patrols will not interrupt them but will assist them in apprehending robbers or housebreakers whenever it shall be necessary. Officers and Non-Commissioned Office's commanding guards are frequently to send out patrols through the day with their arms unloaded to kill every dog they see going about the streets. 132 } Whenever any boys are observed throwing squibs or firing powder they are immediately to be taken to the next officer's guard and whipped by the drummers at the discretion of the officer. The skeleton of a soldier, supposed a deserter, was yesterday discovered at the foot of the Rock so much broke to pieces and otherwise disfigured that there remain no marks to distinguish the Corps he belonged to except the letters J. Y. on his stockings. Any of the Corps who have lost a man, &c., &c. It having been reported to the Governor from Spain that some officers from the Garrison who attempted lately to land on the Spanish shore made use of very indecent and improper assertions on that occasion, it is the Governor's positive orders that no officer shall for the future presume to approach the Spanish shore in boats or otherwise. No person whatever to do anything to fruit trees or others that can injure them in the smallest degree to prevent their bearing fruit or affording a comfort- able shade. ? It being represented to the Governor that the soldiers have got a method of disposing of their necessarys which they call "fighting a cock," it is his positive orders that this practice be discontinued, and that in the barrack room where such necessarys are disposed of the soldiers belonging to that room shall pay for such necessary. The General to his great surprise met an officer coming from Spain with a large straw hat, and to add to the burlesk figure an officer riding behind him. The General forbids any such indecency and will not allow Port liberty to any officer dressed in an unmilitary manner. For the future should any officer's servant desert when absent from the Regi- ment such officer shall be obliged to replace him with a good recruit or pay five pounds for the non-effective. If any man is drunk when for exercise on the South Parade he is not to be sent to the black hole but marched a prisoner to the parade. The Drum Major to take the cat out to exercise. 1773.-The Governor finds it necessary on account of the riots and disorders which happened yesterday expressly to forbid all further horse racing. For the instruction of the officers of this Garrison who may have thought it right to punish soldiers for every neglect of duty, a little treatise in the form of a Regimental Court Martial will soon be published from which they will learn that a sentry box and a shower of rain can justify a sentry who was guilty of what has hitherto been looked on as a most notorious breach of military duty. 1739.-No sentry or person is to fire at any dog but kill them by stabbing or otherwise. 133 The Governor recommends it to the Commanding Officers of Regiments to give directions that the cartridges may not be made too large for firing at exercise or reviews, some barrels of firelocks having split in firing. Samuel Lewis being appointed Executioner for the Garrison the Governor orders that no person whatever offer any abuse to the said Lewis, and whoever shall at any time abuse him either by throwing stones, striking or upbraiding him on account of the said employment shall be punished with the utmost severity. Notwithstanding the Governor's late order against persons abusing the Execu- tioner, some soldiers and others have thrown stones at him, broke his head and abused him in a gross manner. Whoever shall be found, &c., the Governor will order such person to be whipt severely by the said Executioner. No person whatever is to be suffered to go on the Line Wall or ramparts in a night gown, night cap, or binyan on any pretence whatever, and all sentries are to turn off such as shall attempt to come near their posts in any of the said dresses without distinction of persons. Whereas several fishermen instead of bringing their fish to the public markets steal the best kind into town for particular people, the Governor orders that no fisherman be allowed to hawk or sell fish anywhere but at the public market, and whoever shall discover any fishermen bringing fish into the town is to secure such fisherman and whatever fish he has about him shall be forfeited. The Governor expects that for the future no person living in this Garrison send out any letter, parchment or any other thing to Spain through Landport without first acquainting him and obtaining his leave. Whatever butcher shall dare to disobey an order in the least tittle the Captain of the Main Guard will immediately confine all the butchers if he cannot fix it on one. No oysters to be permitted to come into town or suffered to be sold in the boats at Waterport, it having been found very prejudicial to the men's health. As many complaints are made to Lord Tyrawly of the women of the Garrison, and those even by their own husbands, such as leaving them and living with other men and other infamous practices, all such men having such complaints against their wives to give in their names to the Town Major. of the It is the General's order that Edmund Regiment be put upon the gibbet at the top of the hill as a mark of ignomony for his abominable wickedness in disobedience of the laws of God by putting himself to death. Punishments. Margaret Doe, by sentence of a General Court Martial, for making a disturb- ance in her quarters and cutting the throat of Alexander Stewart; three hundred 134 lashes by the drummers; one hundred every other day at Landport, the Parade, and Waterport, and afterwards with a rope round her neck, to be drummed out of the Garrison. Six men condemned to death for desertion were led to the place of execution; two were there reprieved, and the remainder drew lots for their lives; the death lot falling to James Jewett of Brigadier Clayton's Regiment, he was shot to death. A Bombadier, by sentence of a Court Martial, reduced to serve as a Mattross and to receive three hundred lashes with a cat with nine tails, for playing the Quack and giving opium pills to a soldier contrary to orders; but recommended to mercy on account of his long service of upwards of forty years. Four soldiers were shot on Windmill Hill in September, 1757, for desertion; in presence of the whole Garrison. A Corporal tried for desertion and sentenced to serve for the rest of his life in the corps for protection of Botany Bay. The criminal John of the Regiment to be executed at guard mount- ing to-morrow at the store house where he committed the robbery with a label on his breast on which is to be wrote the word "Plunderer;" the body to remain hanging till sunset. Private Thomas to receive 1,000 lashes with a cat of nine tails; the last fifty of which are to be given by the hands of the common hangman between Southport and Waterport; he is afterwards to be drummed out of the Garrison with a halter about his neck. The Governor orders this prisoner to be brought to the Grand Parade, there to receive as much of the above punishment as he is able to bear at one time and the rest afterwards. Confinement to the Bread and Water Room or to the Bomb Shell Privates A B and C D are to be executed to-morrow between ten and eleven · o'clock, and Private E F of the same Regiment is to receive 200 lashes under the gallows (as the above prisoners are hanging) of the 400 he is sentenced to receive. All sentinels who do not call out "All's well" every half minute shall be punished with 200 lashes. The officers of all guards are to punish soldiers for neglect of duty by tying their neck and heels or posting them extraordinary. Miscellaneous. Previous to 1788 all the guns of the Garrison were fired on the King's birth- day. In that year fifty guns were fired and twenty-one for the Queen. Christmas Day, 1773.-Parole: I wish you a merry Christmas. 135 New Year's Day, 1774.-I wish you a happy new year. Queen's birthday, 1803.-Parole: God bless. Countersign: The Queen. G.O.-When the bounty money is paid all good soldiers will take this oppor- tunity of paying their debts and it is recommended to all volunteers to apply at least half of their bounty money for that purpose. In 1799 extra bread was substituted for the ration of butter. In 1800 cow-pox inoculation was introduced as a substitute for the small-pox; the advantage being that the disorder produced by it is not contagious. In the same year 30,000 lemons and eighty arrobes of onions were issued to the troops at one time on account of the scurvy. The queue is to be fixed to the hair of the head, but when an officer's hair is not long enough for this purpose he may be allowed to fix the queue otherwise till his hair is sufficiently long, but this is not to continue longer than two months on any account. Major Count de Courten of Rolls' Regiment named President of a Board of Survey on bread reported to be of short weight-(a very appropriate Regiment for the purpose!—ED.) The General has ordered Mr. Raleigh to give a cob to the man of the Re- ment who stopped the villian of the Regiment with a bag of stolen rum upon his back as a reward for his having done his duty so well. Several officers of the Garrison having communicated observations and hints to the Governor which have proved and others may prove very advantageous to the King's service, officers of every rank are desired to communicate any remark which appears to them useful. The Governor assures thein such beneficial dis- coveries shall be publicly acknowledged at a proper time. The road to the Signal Station was commenced in 1749 by men sentenced by Court Martial to corporal punishment. For 50 to 100 lashes one day's work, 100 to 200 lashes two days and so on. 1756.—The Sergeant-Major of that Regiment the Captain belongs to who is appointed President of a Garrison Court Martial is to attend the said Court and write the proceedings. Lieutenant A B and Lieutenant C D tryed at the late General Court Martial for a breach of the Article of War are found mutually guilty of a breach of the first clause and ordered by the Court to ask pardon of each other in the presence of Major-General ———, and that Mr. A B, appearing to be the first aggressor do first ask pardon. The Chaplains of the different Corps that attend the funerals are not to suffer the corpse to be buried when the grave is not at least six feet deep, and in a more #1 A 136 particular manner sailors that are buried without coffins, and they are desired to see the grave properly filled up. The Board assembled to decide as to, Whether a sentinel quitting his post before he was relieved or found sleeping on his post should be punished by run- ning the gauntlett or be whipped at his post, according to the constant practice of the Garrison ever since the same has been in possession of the English.-Re- solved-That running the gauntlett is a punishment which cannot be inflicted in this Garrison for want of twigs and by reason of the duty of the Garrison being very hard. An Orderly Sergeant is to attend regularly on the Moor who is Secretary to the Alcalde of Tetuan to prevent the sailors or soldiers abusing him or the rest of his countrymen now in town. 1720.—A review of all the English inhabitants to be made on in the Court before the Convent and afterwards of all Spaniards and Genoese able to bear arms that they may be enrolled in case of service. As no robberies can be committed but may be discovered by the Sergeants and Corporals they are to pay for all if the offenders shall not be discovered. No one to suffer any person to stand at their doors or go into the streets that has marks of the small pox. No mackrel to be suffered to come into town. All guards to rest and beat a march to the keys. Town Guard excepted. No woman to beat a soldier; the first that doth shall be whipped and turned out of town. 1726. For the convenience of quarters the Regiments of Pearce, Mark Kerr, Egertons and Bissett that are in barracks to put three men in a bed and as many beds in a room as possible to be removed this morning. If any horses are found on the hill to-morrow the Governor will order out a party to kill them. Any man who has the misfortune to be killed is to be buried by the guard where it happens and his clothes to be sent to his Regiment. Curiosities of Drill, G.O.-On a general parade of more than one regiment the Garrison Quarter- Master will give the line of battle. G.O.-Officers at guard-mounting will bring their espantoons to a half recover and come to the rightabout together upon a flam and not upon the ruffle, which will be previous to it. (The terms are meant for certain beats on the drum. The espantoon for officers was done away with in 1786). 137 Governors, Lieutenant-Governors, and Commandants of the Fortress of Gibraltar. FROM ITS ACQUISITION BY THE ENGLISH UP TO THE PRESENT TIME. Major-General Ramos Colonel Elliott c General Stanvix c..... Colonel Congreve c H. R. H. the Prince of Hesse Lord Portmore. 1704 General O'Hara* 1795 ... 1705 1706 Major General Sir T. Trigge Major-General Barnett* c... 1801 1802 1706 1711 H. R. H. the Duke of Kent.. General Fox 1802 to 1820 .... 1804 1713 General Drummond 1806 Colonel Cotton c 1716 ... General Sir Hew Dalrymple….. 1806 Lieut.- Lieut.-Colonel Bowes c.... 1719 General Drummond 1808 4. Governors Major Elington c... 1719 General Sir J. Cradock.. 1809 Brigadier-General Kane c... 1720 General Sir Colin Campbell*.. 1810 Colonel Hargrave c 1722 General Smith .... .... 1814 General Clayton c....... 1728 General Sabine.... 1730 General Columbine General Clayton c... 1739 General Hargrave c General Sir George Don* General the Earl of Chatham General Sir George Don*...... Lieut.-General Sir W. Houston Colonel C. Mann 1820 to 1836 1825 1831 Lieut.- 1835 ... Governors General Bland 1748 Major-General Sir A. Woodford 1835 Lord George Beauclerc c 1751 Colonel Sir C. F. Smith, R.E. 1838 Colonel Herbert c.. 1752 Lieut.-General Sir A. Woodford 1839 General Braddock c ... General Fowkes Lord Tyrawly 1754 General Sir R. T. Wilson............ 1843 General Sir R. Gardiner 1848 1756 Colonel C. Ward, R.E c 1855 .... Earl of Panmure c...... 1757 • General Sir J. Fergusson 1855 · Lord Home* 1758 Lieut.-General Sir W. J. Codrington 1859 Colonel Tovey c 1761 Lieut.-General Sir R. Airey, G.C.B.. 1865 General Parslow General Sir W. F. Williams of Kars, Bart., General Cornwallis General Irwine c General Cornwallis General Boyd c... General Elliott... 1762 G.C.B. 1870 1766 1767 Major-General E. A. Somerset, C.B. (act.) 1875-76 General Lord Napier of Magdàla, G.C.B., 1769 G.C.S.I..... .1876-82 1777 General O'Hara c... 1787 Major-General D. Anderson (act.)…….. .1877-78 General Sir J. M. Adye, G.C.B. 1883 General Sir R. Boyd* 1791 General Sir Henry Clinton 1794 General Hon. Sir E. A. Hardinge, K.C.B., C.I.E. 1886 General Rainsford c 1794 .. Commandant. * Died and buried at Gibraltar. In 1839 the appointment of Lieutenant-Governor was abolished. 18 138 " Table of Gun Fire. Most useful to those riding into Spain who do not wish to be left out in the cold, as all gates are afterwards shut for the night. Morning Evening Morning Evening H. M. H. M. н. M. H. M. JANUARY مد 5 6 15 5 35 JULY 10 5 3 50 8 0 10 6 15 5 40 10 3 50 7 55 15 6 20 5 45 15 4 0 7 55 222 20 6 20 5 50 20 4 0 7 50 25 6 20 5 55 25 4 0 7 45 31 6 10 6 0 31 4 10 7 40 FEBRUARY...……………………… 5 6 10 6 5 AUGUST 5 4 10 7 35 10 6 10 6 10 10 4 10 7 30 15 6 0 6 15 15 4 25 7 25 222 20 6 0 6 20 20 4 25 7 20 25 6 0 6 25 25 4 25 7 15 28 5 40 6 30 31 4 40 7 5 MARCH 5 5 40 6 35 SEPTEMBER 5 4 40 6 55 ....... 10 5 40 6 35 10 4 40 6 50 15 5 20 6 40 15 4 50 6 40 20 5 20 6 45 20 4 50 6 35 25 31 APRIL هد 5 10 10 10 10 10 20 6 50 25 4 50 6 30 0 6 55 30 5 0 7 OCTOBER ОСТОВЕЕ.......... 5 5 5 5 0 5 10 5 10 10 10 5 6 20 6 10 5 6 5 15 4 40 7 10 15 5 15 6 0 20 4 40 7 15 20 5 15 5 50 25 4 40 7 15 25 5 15 5 45 30 4 15 7 20 31 5 30 5 40 MAY 5 4 15 7 25 NOVEMBER 5 10 4 15 7 30 10 15 4 0 7 35 15 20 4 0 7 40 20 10 10 10 10 5 30 5 35 5 30 5 30 5 45 5 25 5 45 5 25 25 4 0 7 45 25 5 45 5 25 31 3 45 7 50 30 6 0 5 JUNE.... 5 3 45 7 55 DECEMBER 5 6 0 5 ~~~ 20 20 10 3 45 7 55 15 3 45 20 3 45 25 3 45 30 3 50 ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞¬ 10 6 5 20 8 0 15 6 8 0 0 8 0 બી) 20 6 25 6 31 6 15 10 10 10 In 5 25 1 5 5 30 5 5 30 5 35 NIGHT. At half-past 9 o'clock throughout the year. 139 English Names of Streets in Gibraltar and their Abecasis' Passage Arengo's Lane Cloister Ramp ... ... ... ... local equivalents. Benzimbra's Lane Boschetti's Ramp Crutchett's, or Portuguese Town College Lane Cornwall's Parade Commercial Square... Castle Street City Mill Lane Church Street • ... • ... Castle Ramp Civil Hospital Ramp Cannon, and Gunner's Lane Casemates Square Devil's Gap Engineer Lane Fountain Ramp ... Fraser's Ramp Flat Bastion Road Governor's Street Governor's Parade George's Lane Gowland's Ramp Hargrave's Parade King's Yard Lane Lime Kiln Road Lime Kiln Gulley Library Garden Library Ramp ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 3 ... ... : ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Line Wall ... ... ... ... Market Lane Rodger's Ramp Market Street Parliament Lane Prince Edward's Ramp Prince Edward's Road Paradise Ramp Serruya's Lane Serfaty's Passage Serruya's Ramp Southport Street Turnbull's Lane Tuckey's Lane Town Range ... Victualling Office Lane Waterport Street Willis' Road ... ... ... ... ... :. : ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Callejon de la Pasciega. Callejon de Chiappi. Callejon del Moro. Callejon del Tio Pepe. La Calera. Los Baños de Scotto. Callejon de Risso. Plaza de las Verduras. Calle las Siete Revueltas. Plazuela del Martillo. Calle Comedias. Calle de la Iglesia. Calle del Castillo. Cuesta del Hospital. Detrás de la Iglesia. La Esplanada. Escalera del Monte. Calle Ingenieros. Callejon de la Fuente. Escalera de Benoliel. Cuesta de Mr. Bourne. Calle Cordoneros. Plaza de Artilleros. Calle Vicario el Viejo. Callejon del Hospicio. Plazuela de los Artificios. Callejon de la Paloma. Callejon de Dolores Corbe. Callejon de Segui. Huerta Riera. Callejon del Balali. Las Murallas. Callejon de la Carnicería. Calle de la Policía. Calle de la Fonda de los Masones. Cuesta de Cárlos Maria, Cuesta de Sandunga. Escalera de Cardona. Los Espinillos. Calle Peligro. Callejon de Bobadilla. Escalera de Maqui. Calle Puerta Nueva. Detrás de los Cuartos. Callejon del Jarro. Calle Cuarteles. Callejon del Perejil. Calle Real. Buena Vista. : 1 : ! 140 Miles. Furl. 4 1 5 3 4 Table of Distances in the Neighbourhood. From the Convent, Gibraltar, to Landport Guard re སྒྱུ ' ☺ ☺ ઃઃ ་ to Spanish Lines to Campamento to Orange Grove to San Roque .... to First Pine Wood to Malaga Gardens to Second Pine Wood to First Venta (Venta del Padre Mendez)……. to Duke of Kent's Farm (Cortijo de la Fajonera) to Second Venta (Venta de Gamez) to The Convent (Convento de la Almoraima) 4 6 0 77 2 7 ON Q10 O 2 5 CC ર CC to Long Stables (Venta de Gualquehigo)……. to Los Barrios ઃઃ CC 34 CC re ઃઃ CC << k cr to Castellar to Algeciras to Algeciras across the Bay to Tarifa to Second Tower Eastern Beach to Ximena... From San Roque to First Pine Wood From San Roque to First Venta From First Pine Wood to Second Pine Wood From Second Pine Wood to Second Venta First Venta to Second Venta......... ORDER IN ... Currency of Gibraltar. COUNCIL 2D MAY, 1881. GOLD AND SILVER. SILVER. 8 9 76 14 0 14 4 12 0 18 2 10 0 5 2 24 2 8 24 પેહ 1 2 2 1 2 3 2 2 2 5 Pesetas (commonly called a dollar). 50 Centimos (half peseta). (quarter peseta). GOLD. 100 Pesetas. 50 CC 2 CC 25 ' 1 ઃઃ 10 ፡፡ 5 CC Value in Pesetas. re 25 2 Escudos-peso duro, or hard dollar. 1 ' 10 *2 Escudos (commonly called Gold 1 dollar piece) 5 1} Doce CC re or or 16 25 (commonly called a dollar). 25 (commonly called Doblon de Isabel) *4 Escudos (commonly called Gold 2 dollar piece)... -or half dollar. 3 Reals of Plate, or dollar. t BRONZE.-10 centimos; 5 centimos; 2 centimos; 1 centimo. NOTE.-Tradesmen and shopkeepers receive in payment all gold and silver coins which are current in Spain. Also British coins at the rate usually of 25 Pesetas (or 5 dollars) to the £1; and 4 shillings, or 48 pence, to the 5 Peseta piece, commonly called a dollar. One Penny is practically equal to 10 centi- mos, and 1 shilling to 125 centimos. The 100, 50, 10 and 5 Peseta Gold Pieces have not yet been coined by the Spanish Government. * Are practically out of circulation. 141 Calculations are also commonly made in Reals de Vellon, 20 of which are equal to a dollar of 5 pesetas ; also in an imaginary coin called Reals de Plate, 12 of which are supposed to be equal to one dollar (or ŏ pesctas). The following table expresses the relative value of coins used in computation : Dollar. 1 Pesetas. 5 Reals de Plate or Gibraltar Reals (imaginary). 12 Reals de Vellon. 20 Pence. 48 Farthings. 192 Centimos. 500 N.B.-British currency is not a legal tender, and the £1 sterling fluctuates in value, but it is usually estimated at 25 pesetas or 5 dollars, and 4 shillings are equal to 5 pesetas or a dollar. General Post Office. The Gibraltar Post Office became a Colonial Department on the 1st January, 1886, having up to that date been under the control of the General Post Office, London. Gibraltar is a member of the "General Postal Union," and letters addressed to Union Countries are chargeable with the rates of postage fixed by the Postal Union Convention of Paris, June, 1878. Unpaid letters are charged double postage on delivery. Insufficiently paid letters are charged double the deficiency of the unpaid rate. All postage must be prepaid by Gibraltar Postage Stamps. The fee for registration is 2d. without distinction of destination. The sender of a registered article may obtain an acknowledgment of its delivery by paying, in advance, a fixed fee of 24d. in addition to the ordinary registration fee and postage. The Post Office is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. on week days, and from 7 to 10 a.m. and 4 to 6 on Sundays. Stamps of all kinds can be obtained in the Telegraph Office from 6 to 9 p.m. Correspondence for the United Kingdom. p.m. Correspondence for the United Kingdom is forwarded daily in a closed mail to London, via Spain and France. The mail is despatched from Gibraltar at 8:30 a.m. and reaches London on the fifth day, occupying 4 days and 9 hours in its transit; a letter posted in Gibraltar on Monday morning is delivered in London on Friday night, and in the provinces on Saturday morning. In the other direc- tion, closed mails for Gibraltar are despatched from London twice daily, at 7:45 a.m. and 8.30 p.m., which reach Gibraltar about 3:30 p.m. on the fifth day, occupying respectively 4 days, 7 hours and 45 minutes and 4 days and 19 hours in their transmission. The evening despatch from London is received in Gibraltar at the same time as the morning despatch of the following day. Letters for the United States of America, West Indies, the States of South America, Canada, &c., are forwarded, vid London, in the closed mail, unless any other route is specified on the address. Correspondence for the European States. Correspondence for the European States is forwarded daily in the general mail for Spain, despatched from Gibraltar at 8:30 a.m. Correspondence for the East. Correspondence for Malta, Egypt and places Eastward of Suez, including Australia and New Zealand, is forwarded weekly by P. and O. steamers. Correspondence for Malta can be forwarded viâ Spain and France, but the time occupied in transit by this route is on an average eight days. 1 142 Ship Mails. Ship mails for England as well as the ports of Spain, Portugal, France, Malta and Egypt are made up at the Post Office and despatched by merchant steamers on every eligible occasion. Mails for Tangier and the Barbary ports are despatched by every opportunity; and letters for Tetuan or the ports of Western Barbary, sent in the mail to Tangier, are despatched thence to destination by courier. Letters forwarded to Union Countries by ship mail are charged the Union rate. Letters forwarded to the ports of Western Barbary by ship mail are charged 1d. per oz. Morocco Postal Service. An express Postal Courier Service, under the control of the Gibraltar Government, is working between Tangier, Larache, Rabat and Casablanca. The Time Table is as follows:- UP. Leave rr Casablanca Rabat << Larache Monday, 6 o'clock evening. Tuesday, 4 Thursday, 10 re rr morning. Arrive Tangier Friday, 8 CC re Friday, 6 o'clock evening. Saturday, 4 Monday, 10 Tuesday, 8 '' re morning. CC DOWN. Leave Tangier «Ε Larache