FORBES & WILSON'S
PLAN OF
EDINBURGH.
ONE SHILLING PLAIN
ONE SHILLING & SIXPENCE COLOD
PUBLISHED BY FORBES & WILSON
92 PRINCES STREET EDINBURGH.
Tappan Presbyterian Association
LIBRARY.
Presented : HON. D. BETHUNE DUFFIELD.
From Library of Rev. Geo. Duffield, D.D.
▲ ALA ¿ ¿
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FORBES & WILSON'S
GUIDE
TO
EDINBURGH
WITH NOTES AND REFERENCES
TO ITS
Antiquities.
EDINBURGH FORBES & WILSON, 92 PRINCES STREET,
AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS,
Gift
Tappan Prest, Asser.
3-21-1933
DA
890
E 3
FT
FORBES & WILSON'S
GUIDE THROUGH EDINBURGH.
Ir is generally acknowledged that the City of Edinburgh,
capital of Scotland, is, beyond every other town in the three.
kingdoms, superior in point of situation, architecture, and ro-
mantic grandeur. And if the Visitor is favoured with fine
weather, and a clear sky, when he first enters the town, he can-
not but be filled with wonder and delight. At every turn, and
in whichever way he may look, he is struck with amazement at
the great effects of combined nature and art.
If he enters Edinburgh from the Railway Terminus, as is
most probable, he lands directly in the centre of the great
valley which divides the Old and New Towns, and upon
reaching Princes Street from the Waverley Bridge, the pictur-
esque appearance of the masses of old and ricketty houses,
heaped together in wonderful confusion on the south side of
the City, with the Castle towering up high above all else to the
west, and the Calton Hill filling up the eastern vista, together
with the squares of regular and beautifully-built houses on
either side, all combine to create astonishment and delight in
the mind of the stranger, and he retires to his hotel in the firm
belief that a treat of no little magnitude is in store for him
as soon as he is prepared to enjoy it.
Edinburgh has a sprinkling of every thing in it. It has an
impregnable Castle,-a Royal Palace, in which the greatest
"sight" of all, is that which you take at the venerable and an-
4
tiquated female guides, whose ancient lore concerning Rizzio's
Blood, and Queen Mary's short Bed-stead, forms a very great
attraction indeed,-A host of Hospitals, or Charity Schools,
built in styles of grandeur and architectural effect, more to
serve the purpose of monuments to the memory of the founders,
than the comfort and previous mode of living of the recipients
of their bounty. It has its High Schools and Normal Schools,
Royal Infirmary, Royal Scottish Academy, Club-Houses,
Cathedrals, splendid Banks, University, magnificent Churches,
and dirty Cowgate, to all of which the Visitor will be led in ro-
tation by our dividing the town into a series of walks, which
will prevent him from getting into confusion, or going over the
same ground twice unnecessarily.
The Old Town is built on the summit of a ridge extending
from the Castle in the extreme west, to the Palace of Holyrood
on the east, laying at the foot of Arthur Seat and Salisbury
Crags. The New Town is built on a second parallel ridge,
extending an equal distance, and so is the southern part of the
Old Town; these three ridges are connected by means of
closes, Bridges, and Earthen Mound. These closes open on
either side of the High Street, which runs in a direct line from
the Castle to Holyrood Palace, the houses of which were once
the abodes of the highest and greatest in the land, but a single
glimpse into the interior of one of them, will soon satisfy the
curiosity of the Stranger, and suggest the great propriety of the
former inmates having removed to the more aristocratic-looking
dwellings which form the present "West End" of Edinburgh.
The New Town is bounded on the east by the picturesque
Calton Hill, on the summit of which is a PILLAR to the
memory of LORD NELSON, a ROYAL OBSERVATORY,
and one or two monuments of smaller note, such as
DUGALD STEWART'S, and PROFESSOR PLAYFAIR'S.
The grand architectural feature, however, is the unfinished
NATIONAL MONUMENT, twelve pillars only of which are
erected. Some, indeed the majority of visitors, esteem its pre
5
sent ruinous state far more romantic, viewed from Princes
Street, than the finished building would be. George Street
crowns the summit of the New Town; it is a magnificent
street, nearly three quarters of a mile long, with a beautiful
square at each end. On the south side of it, runs Princes
Street, a very fine terrace, a mile in length, and commanding
the best view of the Castle, the Garden Terraces, the Earthen
Mound, and back of the Old Town. On the north side of
George Street extend parallel streets and terraces on gradually
receding levels towards the river Forth. The style of the New
Town architecture is a wonderful improvement upon that of
the Old, both with regard to external beauty and internal
comforts. The streets are wide and spacious, including even
the back and cross streets, and the very lanes of the New Town
are as wide as some of the principal thoroughfares in the East
End of the English Metropolis.
We will now proceed to divide the town into Three Walks,
any of which can be accomplished with the utmost ease, and
but little fatigue.
WALK THE FIRST.
As most of the visitors to Edinburgh take up their quarters
in one or other of the Hotels in Princes Street, we will start
from the foot of the Earthen Mound, previous to which we
would suggest that he enjoy the very fine views to be had of
the Castle; The Old Houses, towering one above the other to
the height of seven or eight flats or stories, at the top of which
people are supposed to be born, live, and die, without ever
coming down to see what's at the bottom;-The Free Church
College, built in the Elizabethan style, looking more like a
gaol than a College, albeit, occupying the best site for a public
building that can be had in Edinburgh; The Bank of Scot-
land, situate on the brow of the hill, a piece of architecture
6
very heavy in appearance, but which it is said cost £75,000.
And then a mass of old houses again meets the eye, which, for
picturesque and novel appearance, is beyond all praise, espe-
cially is it to be admired, when, as almost every room has a
separate tenant, a light is to be seen in each window, display-
ing in the evening an amount of illumination very effective
indeed, and suggests to the mind of the beholder, the scenic
effects of Vauxhall, or the Surrey Zoological Gardens, when
Danton treats the cockneys to the "Siege of Badajos,” or some
other similar pyrotechnic entertainment. The view terminates
with a jutting point of Arthur's Seat, flanked by a lively view of
the Coast of North Berwick, "the Law," or high hill, looming
in the distance.
THE ROYAL INSTITUTION, is built upon piles, the ex-
pense of which process alone was £1,600, and over the north-
ern pediment is the statue of Her Majesty Queen Victoria,
sculptured by the eminent Mr Steel, the stone taken from Craig
Leith Quarry, from which the best part of the New Town has
been built. In this Building several Societies meet. The
Gallery for the use of Artists, containing casts from the An-
tique, &c. is free to the public, and deserves an hour's inspec-
tion. During the months of Feburary, March, and April, the
Exhibition of paintings by the Royal Scottish Academy, is held
here, in which the pictures of living Artists only are permitted
to be exhibited.
At the top of the Mound we turn to the right, and, passing
the Free Church College, ascend a steep hill and speedily reach
the Esplanade fronting the entrance to the Castle.
Here we
advise the Visitor to shut his eyes, and not re-open them until
his guide has safely landed him on the uppermost battery of
the Castle, otherwise the splendid view to be had therefrom' will
not be half enjoyed, in consequence of its being broken by being
seen from so many lower points. He will then open his eyes upon
a scene unsurpassed, by any, we might say, in the world; stretch-
ing out directly under and before him are the beautiful gardens
uniting hill and valley, and having the Glasgow Railway inter-
secting them from left to right; then PRINCES STREET,
and the whole of the New Town at a glance. Then the inter-
vening patches of country laying betwixt the town and the lively
RIVER FORTH, which winds its serpent-like course away to
the left, and is lost to sight among little pleasant dots of islands
at Queen's Ferry, beyond which it again expands, and finally
winds itself into almost nothing at STIRLING, a distance of 48
miles by water-a pleasant yet tedious sail. Away to the right
is the SCOTT MONUMENT, CALTON HILL, HIGH
SCHOOL, and finally THE BAY itself, at the mouth of which
may be seen the curious BASS ROCK, and on a clear day the
ISLE OF MAY can even be distinguished. To the left is St.
JOHN'S CHAPEL, as fine a sample of Gothic Architecture
as any Edinburgh can boast of; after glancing at which the eye
lands at once upon a Palace in the shape of DONALDSON'S
HOSPITAL, laying quite to the left, just without the precincts
of the town. Every body allows this to be the most princely
building in Scotland. It was founded by a Printer, who be-
queathed £210,000 sterling for the maintenance and educa-
tion of 200 poor girls and boys. It was designed by Playfair,
in the Elizabethan style of architecture. It is quadrangular,
and each side measures equally 270 feet; towers flank each
corner, whilst a fine tower, terminating with an Ogee roof, sur-
mounts the principal entrance to the south; altogether it is a
chef-d'œuvre in Elizabethan Architecture, and not to be sur-
passed. A little beyond lie the Corstorphine hills, from which
a fine view of Edinburgh and surrounding country can be
had.
The Regalia is the next object of interest; it is contained in
the Crown Room situated in the Square, and may be seen by
order of the City Chamberlain. Multitudes crowd daily to see
this popular exhibition; it consists of the CROWN, SCEPTRE, and
SWORD of STATE, with numerous other regal ornaments the
curious history of which is recounted by the antique attendant,
8
whose strange dress overawes country clodpoles into deep and
solemn silence, as he proceeds with the description. In the
south-east corner of the Square is situated the room in which
James the Sixth of Scotland, only son of Mary Queen of Scots,
was born. The view from the window of the southern and eastern
part of the town is worthy of observation. Crossing the draw-
bridge, on leaving the Castle, to the left, overlooking the gardens,
stands Chantrey's statue of the Duke of York, certainly not the best
work of the artist. We now descend into the LAWNMARKET,
the upper part of the High Street; to the left is Victoria Hall,
the place of meeting of the General Assembly of the Church of
Scotland, which generally sits in the month of May, and, during
the remainder of the year, is used as one of the City Churches.
It is a fine building, and the spire, 240 feet in height, acts as
such, not only for VICTORIA HALL, but also for the FREE
CHURCH COLLEGE, when viewed from Princes Street, not
an unnecessary adjunct to the latter, which sadly wants some-
thing of an elevating character. Nearly opposite to the left is an
old building, once the private Chapel of Mary of Guise. To the
right, standing on the brow of the hill, is the Gothic edifice ST
JOHN'S FREE CHURCH, the minister of which, the Rev. Dr
Guthrie, is one of the most popular preachers, and also one of the
originators of the Ragged Schools. Continuing, and lower down
to the right, is GEORGE THE FOURTH'S BRIDGE, before
crossing which, we will visit the HOUSE OF PARLIA-
MENT and St GILES' CATHEDRAL, beside them are,
the COUNTY HALL, THE ADVOCATES' LIBRARY, the
WRITERS to the SIGNET'S LIBRARY, the COURT of EX-
CHEQUER and JUSTICIARY, and THE UNION BANK,
formerly called SIR WILLIAM FORBES & Co. ST. GILES'
CATHEDRAL is the largest Church in the town; it is 161 feet
in height, surmounted by an imperial crown of open arched
stone-work of great beauty, in the centre of which is a set of
musical bells, played every lawful day from 12 to 1. The date
of its antiquity is somewhat obscure, some speak of A, D, 854,
:
·
:
9
others later still, name 1200 or 1300. The present patrons ar
the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Council. In one of th
Churches, (for there are three,) is the throne set apart for the
Sovereign, and generally used by the Lord High Commissioner
during the sittings of the General Assembly of the Church of
Scotland.
THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE is in the south-west corner
of the Square, now used as the OUTER HOUSE of the Court of
Session, and during the sitting of which, the Advocates and
other Members of the Law, may be seen in their Wigs and
Gowns solemnly perambulating on the look-out for briefs.
This hall is 122 feet long, with a beautiful arched roof of Oak,
and a stained-glass window, representing Blind Justice, with a
pair of properly-adjusted scales in her hand. Several statues
grace the hall; among which are those of Lord Melville by
Chantrey, and Forbes of Culloden by Roubilliac. Close at hand,
and free of access, are the Advocates' Library and the Writers
to the Signet's Library. We now proceed along George the
Fourth's Bridge, on which, to the right, stands the HIGH-
LAND and AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, the
emblematical device in front of which is sculptured in stone by
that eminent and highly-gifted sculptor, Alexander Handyside
Ritchie, Esq., from whose studio have emanated some of the
most magnificent pieces of sculpture-work which now adorn
the New Town of Edinburgh. Half-way across the Bridge,
running below at right angles, visitors can enjoy a peep at
the Cowgate from a distance, which we advise them always to
do, otherwise a closer inspection spoils the picturesque effect
created by the strong contrast. Turning the right hand corner
of the Bridge, we now walk down the Candlemaker-Row and
issue into the GRASSMARKET, which Sir Walter Scott has
more than once rendered famous by some of his historical and
romantic sketches. It was here where the "Porteous Row" was
concluded, and there stood the Gibbet on which many crim-
inals made their exit from this world. We now proceed
10
up the steep ascent of the Vennel, and arrive at the gates of
George Heriot's Hospital. Jingling Geordie' as James VI.
used to term him, was a Jeweller in London, and amassed a
very large fortune whilst connected with the Court at that
period, in the character of money-lender,-it was completed in
1660, at a cost of £27,000, from a design o Inigo Jones. 180
boys are here accommodated and educated; only sons of decay-
ed Burgesses are eligible, but now, out-door Schools connected
with the Hospital are increasing rapidly, educating some thou-
sands of children annually. It is interesting to visit the in-
terior, especially at 'feeding time,' and an order is easily procur-
ed of one of the Magistrates who are Governors. Other two
Hospitals stand directly opposite, the one with the ship-vane
is GEORGE WATSON'S, and the other is the MERCHANT
MAIDEN HOSPITAL, both intended to benefit the offspring
of decayed Merchants.
We now proceed to the east end of Lauriston, and walking
along Teviot Row we arrive at South College Street, at the foot
of which we turn to the left and suddenly come upon a front
view of the EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY, a magnificent
rectangular building, the result of the united efforts of Robert
Adam, and W. H. Playfair; the huge pillars are each one solid
stone. The Library contains about 80,000 volumes, free of
access to the matriculated Students. The Museums of Natural
History and Anatomy are each worthy of a visit; there is also
an Agricultural Museum. The reputation of this College is de-
servedly of the highest, many of our greatest men have been
educated here. As a School for Medicine, it stands unrivalled,
and its present Professor, Mr Goodsir, holds the highest position
as an Anatomist. Lower down, and turning to the left, is the
ROYAL INFIRMARY, founded by Provost Drummond. It is
a great acquisition to the Students of Medicine, who "walk the
Hospitals" under the guidance and tuition of our best Professors.
Continuing our course northward, we proceed down the South
Bridge, scarcely perceptible as such, in consequence of the sides
11
being built up with houses. The Tron Church stands in a square
to the left, at the Junction of the North and South Bridges.
The spire was destroyed once during the great fire, which de-
vastated a very large portion of the High Street in 1824. It
was then composed of wood and covered with lead. We again
proceed, and continuing our course down the bridges, we have
a very interesting view of the Railway operations at the base
of the North Bridge. Directly facing us is a square building
(surmounted by a dome, with a clock thereto at each of the
corners,) called the REGISTER OFFICE. It is a very impos-
ing building, and has a very fine effect from the North Bridge:
In front is the Statue of His Grace The " Iron Duke," from
the studio of Steele. Directly opposite is the THEATRE
ROYAL, with a miserable exterior, although comfortable and
handsome interior. It was formerly under the management of
the late Veteran W. H. Murray, a name celebrated in Histrionic
Annals, and at present is well managed by Lloyd. We have
now concluded Walk the first, which leaves the visitor once
more in Princes Street, from whence we started.
WALK THE SECOND.
Leaving the Register Office, the building at the eastern ex-
tremity of Princes Street, we proceed towards the Calton Hill,
passing along Waterloo Bridge, which gives the Visitor again
a peep at the abodes of the lower denizens of "Auld Reekie.”
On the right, surmounted by the Royal Arms, is the STAMP
OFFICE, and further on is the POST OFFICE, a
a very
inferior
building, and by no means equal in accommodation to the
wants of the public; directly opposite is the WATERLOO
NEWS ROOMS, where, for the nominal charge of one penny,
visitors have ready access to all the metropolitan and provincial
newspapers. We now pass through the centre of a church-
yard, built up on each side by blank walls, through which the
entrance to Edinburgh was cut. To the left is the CAL-
12
TON CONVENING ROOMS, and further on we ascend
the stairs leading to the CALTON HILL. Ascending
the first flight, we turn round to examine the Gaol, and
beyond it Bridewell. Continuing straight forward, the Visitor
will at once be struck with the panoramic view which will
slowly open upon him. To the left is a pile of houses rising
one above another in picturesque confusion, and which, by the
way, well merits an evening visit when the shades of night
produce lights in almost every window, giving a very fine
stage effect. Then comes the northern part of the New Town,
with the long and irregularly-built Leith Walk, continued to
the Port of Leith, the River Forth, Inch Keith, the Coast and
Hills of Fife, and, away to the left, the view is bounded
by the Bay and Berwick-Law. Upon reaching the summit,
we at once proceed to NELSON'S MONUMENT, reached
by a short avenue close to the pillar. At the very door alone
the view is beyond all description, but upon paying the small
fee to the obliging, spirited, and enterprising occupant, who
has an entire host of entertaining, and interesting novelties,
among which are the interesting views of the apartments of
Her Majesty at Windsor Castle, &c., awaiting the Visitor upon
his descent; the magnificence and grandeur of the various views
which are gained as the Visitor gradually ascends, are indeed
a full reward for the considerable amount of fatigue experi-
enced in climbing up the interior; indeed, to say the truth, one
feels rather queer, after continuing for some time the everlast-
ing tread-mill step after step until your knees and feet at last
keep going on the same as ever, only, you lose all perception of
the fact, until you come to the first light, when you give a faint
cheer, imagining it to be the top, but it only brings you to the
base of the pillar on the roof of the house. However, the stair.
case, like every thing else, has an end, or rather a top and bottom,
and when you emerge out of the Cabin-door at the top,
you are perfectly struck with the unparalleled beauty,
variety, and extent of the prospect before and around you:
13
Most Visitors have indeed great difficulty in tearing themselves
away from it, so seldom do they encounter such an amount of
variegated scenery at one view.
We think the descent is the most distressing, the legs and
feet have it all their own way, and after a time, you find it is
of no use trying to control their motions; you lose count, your
brain swims, and you know nothing at all about it, until you
discover yourself investigating the pastry and other edibles
below. Here we leave the Visitor for a few minutes in the
hands of Mrs Ker, whose kindness and attention are only
equalled by her good humour. Various dioramas, cycloramas,
panoramas, and dissolving views, all of a most interesting and
entertaining character, are to be seen and enjoyed, and the
Visitor leaves with the impression that NELSON'S MONU-
MENT is decidedly one of the best places of resort to the
Edinburgh Tourist. The fee of admission to the Monument,
with the Camera Obscura, Solar Microscope, Magnificent
Telescope, and Queen's Apartments at Windsor, together with
the view from the top of the column is one shilling. Directly
on the summit of the hill, stands the ROYAL OBSERVA-
TORY, over which presides Professor Smith, ably assisted by
Mr Wallace. Herein is contained the finest instruments of
the kingdom, an inspection of which is truly interesting, and,
although it is not open to the public, yet Professor Smith is at
all times willing to allow scientific parties the entrée to the
establishment. The uncouth and shapeless tower at the south-
west corner, was one of a series which were intended to assist
in giving the Calton Hill a fortified appearance, but which
was subsequently and very properly abandoned, such a scheme
by no means harmonising with the peaceful and scientific
operations proposed to be carried on within the building.
Passing along the southern side of the National Monument,
we eventually reach the descending road which overlooks the
HIGH SCHOOL OF EDINBURGH;-this is decidedly one
of the finest classical buildings of which Edinburgh can boast.
14
It consists of a centre and two wings, the centre forms a temple
of the Grecian Doric Order, having a hexastyle portico towards
the south, the columns of which are of the same proportions
as the temple of Theseus at Athens; the wings are rectangu-
lar, of two stories in height, at each end are Doric Lodges, in
one of which the Janitor resides. In the large hall which
occupies the centre, the Annual Examination and Distribution
of Prizes take place. The design was by Hamilton, and the
expense £30,000. Turning to the left at the entrance to the
High School Playground, which is about two acres in extent,
we reach BURN'S MONUMENT. Proceeding down Regent
Road we take the first turning to the right called Abbey Hill,
and proceeding its entire length, we find ourselves at the foot
of the CANONGATE, at the extreme end of which we finally
arrive at HOLYROOD PALACE, now the only respectable
residence Scotland can offer Royalty. It is a quadrangular
edifice, with an open central court, surrounded by a piazza of
open arches. The Royal Arms may be observed sculptured
on stone over the entrance and directly underneath the Clock.
On the south side of the Building are shown by an antiqua-
ted female, the apartments once occupied by Queen Mary, and
in which various exhibitions daily take place, most interesting
indeed to the lovers of the marvellous, who are deeply inter-
ested in the blood of Rizzio, pointed out by the atten-
dant, as having survived the renewal of the floor several times,
with sundry gloves, spears, swords, and other warlike imple-
ments, together with an unauthenticated portrait of Mary.
which the Old Woman considers the most precious relic in
the Palace, but in which few genuine antiquaries have any
faith. It is utterly useless for us to attempt competition with
our ancient female friend, in describing the various "Lions"
of this part of Holyrood. She is replete with stories
of all kinds, to question which, it is indeed dangerous to
try. The Gallery, in which are the anything but genuiue
15
looking portraits, is now used as a Hall for the Election of
Scottish Representative Peers.
On the southern side are the modern apartments, one of
which is the Hall of Audience, which George IV. used for his
Levees and Drawing-rooms in 1822. Wilkie's portrait of His
Majesty hangs there. This Hall is used by His Grace the Lord
High Commissioner during the sittings of the General Assem-
bly in May. The Marquis of Breadalbane also has a suite of
apartments in the Palace. Adjoining the Palace on the east
side are the ruins of THE CHAPEL ROYAL, or ABBEY
OF HOLYROOD, founded by King David I. and once of
very great extent, and wealth. Charles I. was here crowned
in 1633. The roof which was far too heavy, fell-in in
1768, and very considerably damaged the building. Several
of our Scottish Kings and Queens lie within the precincts, the
resting places of which are pointed out by the attendant.
Leaving the Royal Residence, we turn to the left and issue
into what is called the Queen's Park, from which we enjoy a
fine and uninterrupted view of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury
Crags; to those who are fond of a healthy climb up the moun
tain sides, the view from the top amply rewards their labours,
those again who prefer to take it more easily and yet desire to
enjoy the view, can take advantage of the Queen's Drive round
the hill, which embraces an amount of magnificent scenery un-
paralleled. ST. ANTHONY'S WELL is situated a little
way up the hill, where congregate groups of little ragged urch-
ins, each vying with the other to gain the patronage of the
Visitor in drinking of the somewhat muddy waters of this
celebrated Well;-higher up still stand the ruins of ST. AN-
THONY'S CHAPEL, now fast approaching entire demoli-
tion; the site commands an extensive view of Leith and the
Forth, as well as the old town of Edinburgh. We would
caution all Visitors, ascending to the top, against the wily pro-
fessors of Thimble-rigging; if they once allow themselves to be
carried away by their mode of play, they will infallibly lose
복
​16
their money, and be laughed at for their simplicity. Every one
of the respectable looking gentry, who hover around the profess-
or with his board and pea, are accomplices, especially the stout
gentleman, who asks the stranger to hold his umbrella, aud
who is generally loudest in declaiming against them. Leaving
the Queen's Park we retrace our steps until we arrive at the foot
of the CANONGATE, passing up which, we arrive at the
CANONGATE KIRK, close to which is the OLD TOL-
BOOTH PRISON, which is still used for the confinement of
prisoners: Attached to the wall may still be seen a stone pillar
called the Whipping Post. In the churchyard close by, lie
many Geniuses of former ages. Higher up on the left stands
MORAY HOUSE, built in 1688, and since, the scenes of
bloody engagements. It was at first the residence of the
Moray family, but is now converted into Trinity House or
Hospital. As we gradually ascend the Canongate, the visitor
will have ample opportunities of seeing the lower classes who
inhabit the mansions of the departed great, principally down
the wynds and closes leading from the main thoroughfare. On
either side is Leith Wynd and St. Mary's Wynd, the abodes of
the "old clo" gentry. Higher up at the right corner where
the street suddenly widens into the High Street, stands JOHN
KNOX'S HOUSE; in front is an effigy, representing Knox
preaching. Going back, and turning to the left we descend
Leith Wind, which will enable the Visitor to see one of those
narrow places of abode, and yet give him plenty of elbow-room
wherein to walk and breathe; at the foot, on the ground now
occupied by the Railway, formerly stood TRINITY CHURCH,
and close by stood also TRINITY HOSPITAL, now trans-
ferred to Moray House in the Canongate. Traversing the
road leading under the Railway, we wend our way below the
Waterloo-Arch, and find ourselves in LEITH STREET;
turning to the left of which, and ascending to the top, we
once more find ourselves at the Register Office, where we leave
the Visitor, with the intention of again acting as Cicerone, to
17
WALK THE THIRD.
We start this time at the SCOTT MONUMENT, an elegant
and elaborate piece of Gothic Architecture in the form of a
cross or spire; it is 190 feet in height, with a spiral stair-case
leading to within a few feet of the top, and commanding a
magnificent birds-eye view of Edinburgh and its vicinity.
The foundation stone was laid with Masonic Honours on the
15th of August 1840, which happened to be the anniversary of
Sir Walter Scott's natal day. The Monument is from the
design of the unfortunate George Kemp, who did not live to
see the realization of his gorgeous ideas. The statue was design-
ed and executed by Mr John Steel, R.S.A. Proceeding up St.
David Street, we enter St. Andrews Square, one of the earliest
Squares built in the New Town. It is now principally occupied
by Banks, and Public Offices. At the South West corner is situ-
ated the Western Bank of Scotland, a plain and substantial
building, but rather top-heavy. In the exactly opposite corner
is the NATIONAL BANK of SCOTLAND, a plainer building
still, especially when compared with the BRITISH LINEN
COMPANY'S BANK, a narrow building, but the magnificent
pillars surmounted by emblematical collossal figures, give it a
splendid appearance from the other side of the Square; the fi
gures are from the studio of Handyside Ritchie Esq. whose name
we have already referred to, in connection with some of the
finest architectural features of Edinburgh. In a recess adjoin-
ing, stands the ROYAL BANK of SCOTLAND, an imposing
building, formery used as the Excise Office for Scotland. In
front stands a bronze statue of the Earl of Hopetoun, successor
to Sir John Moore, as Commander-in-Chief of the British
Army. Next to the Royal Bank, in the Square, stands Doug-
las' Hotel, the best and most aristocratic Hotel in Edinburgh,
with a reputation known all over England. In the North
West corner is the Office of the United Deposit Insurance
18
Company. The principles upon which this office are based, are
becoming more and more popular every day, and are more
suited to the means of a certain class, than any other office.
In this house was born Henry, Lord Brougham. In the centre
of the Square surrounded by pleasant gardens, open only to
the residents in the Square, stands a very handsome Corin-
thian Pillar, taken from the Column of Trajan at Rome. It
is 136 feet high, with a spiral stair-case leading up to the
statue of HENRY LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE; it
is not however open to the public. We now proceed along
one of the finest streets in the World, viz. GEORGE STREET,
it is nearly a mile in length, and at the West end is erected
ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, surrounded by a Cupola, intend-
ed, we presume, as a bad St. Paul's of London. The COM-
MERCIAL BANK is a little way on the left from St. And-
rew Square, a very extensive building, gorgeously fitted up in
the interior, and open to the inspection of strangers during
Bank hours. It has a Corinthian Portico, at the top of the
pediment of which, is a Sculptural representation, designed and
executed by Handyside Ritchie Esq., and may be considered
one of his best efforts. Further on, on the same side is, the
MUSEUM of THE SCOTTISH ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY.
At the opposite corner stands the beautiful building of the
EDINBURGH and GLASGOW BANK, designed by David
Bryce. In the centre of the street stands Chantrey's bronze
STATUE of GEORGE IV.-looking down to that of Her
Majesty Queen Victoria, on the top of the Royal Institution.
A short distance on the left is the Piazza of the ASSEMBLY
ROOMS and MUSIC HALL; these are principally used for
the Monthly Assemblies, got up by the Directors, as well as
for Public Meetings, Political and Social; proceeding west-
ward, we come to the bronze STATUE by Chantrey of WIL
LIAM PITT; and at length reach CHARLOTTE SQUARE,
one of the most elegant in Edinburgh; traversing the right-
side of it, we turn down Glenfinlas Street, and enter the princely
19
region of MORAY PARK, AINSLIE PLACE, DOUNE
TERRACE, &c. We first enter Ainslie Place, the houses of
which are regularly and beautifully built. We next pass through
Great Stuart Street, and enter Randolph Crescent, wherein is a
rookery of considerable size; to the right, a few yards brings
us to the DEAN BRIDGE, the view from which is both ex-
tensive and grand. ST. BERNARDS' WELL, with a Statue
of Hygeia, may be seen below, a place of morning resort for
those who believe in the efficacy of its waters, the taste of which
is something similar to that of rotten eggs; the Dean bridge
consists of four arches of 90 feet span each, and 120 feet from
the level of the "Water of Leith," a miserable stream which
runs directly below. Returning to Randolph Crescent, and pas-
sing through Ainslie Place, we turn into Moray Park or Place,
the Belgravia of Edinburgh. Here the Visitor may pause and
wonder at the difference of the Wynds and Closes in the Old
Town, once the residence of the ancestors of those who now
dwell in those splendid mansions. It was but a step from the
ridiculous to the sublime, that which they took in crossing
the Valley which separates the Old from the New Town.
Keeping to the left of Moray Place, we turn into Doune Ter-
race, from the windows of which a very picturesque view is ob-
tained of the Fife coast, and the Firth of Forth. Gloucester
Place follows Doune Terrace, and then we pass into the Royal
Circus, beyond which, to the left, we enjoy a peep of ST. STE-
PHEN'S CHURCH, with a Square tower, from a design by
Playfair. Turning to the right, we ascend the rather steep hill.
called Howe Street, at the top of which commences these
beautiful Terraces before referred to, as sloping gradually to-
wards the sea. HERIOT ROW looks towards the south with
beautiful gardens intervening between it and Queen Street,
the latter raised considerably higher, having a splendid front
view of the Coasts of Fife, and the River Forth. Turning to
the left, we come to the PHYSICIAN'S HALL, sometime ré-
moved from the present site of the Commercial Bank of Scot-
20
land in George Street: statues of Esculapius and Hippocrates
adorn the portico, with Hygeia surmounting the whole;
these are also from the hands of Handyside Ritchie, Esquire.
Continuing our walk, we pass the Hall of the United Presby.
terian Church, wherein their Synod hold their Annual Meetings.
During the remainder of the year, this Hall is let out for Public
Meetings, Concerts, Entertainments, &c. A little further on
proceeding along York Place, we at length reach ST. PAUL'S
EPISCOPAL CHURCH, a magnificent place of Worship, de-
signed by Elliot; to the right hand is Broughton Street, in which
stands ST. MARY'S ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, the
principal worshipping place of that body, the exterior is not
particularly fine, but the interior is beautifully fitted up, and
possesses as fine an organ as any in Edinburgh. Close at hand,
overlooking the whole length of Leith Walk, stands a build-
ing now called the ADELPHI THEATRE, used as a Chapel
in former times, perhaps with less success than it now is as a
Theatre. Traversing Leith Walk a small way, we turn to the
right, and ascend that part of the Calton Hill called Blenheim
Place, leading to the Royal Terrace, from whence the Visitor
has another view of the Coast, Port of Leith, and adjacent
scenery. The houses on this Terrace are magnificently built,
regular, and chaste; the Terrace continues round in the shape
of an elongated crescent, embracing Carlton Terrace and Re-
gent Terrace, which ends on the other side of the hill, close to
the High School of Edinburgh.
Retracing our steps to Leith Walk, we soon reach Leith
Street, and turning into Princes Street, we regain the Register
Office, and terminate the pleasant labours of a Cicerone.
The accompanying notes of the Antiquities of Edin-
burgh, will be found very useful to those who feel interested
in the ancient history of " Auld Reekie.”
REFERENCES
ΤΟ
FORBES & WILSON'S
PLAN OF EDINBURGH.
EXPLANATION.-The Intended Improvements are Coloured Pink-the Existing
Buildings are printed in Black-the Public Buildings are distinguished by
a deeper Black—the Antiquities are referred to by Figures and Letters on
the Map, and explained as follows:-
REFERENCES TO THE ANTIQUITIES OF EDINBURGH.
No.
1. House in which Allan Ramsay, the poet, and his son, the
painter, resided (Castlehill).
2. Duke of Gordon's House (Castlehill).
3. Palace and Oratory of Mary of Lorraine, Queen of James V.
The Marquis of Argyll's house is in Elliots Close, Castlehill.
4. Site of the Weigh House (High Street).
Oliver Cromwell's house is in Brodie's Close, 304 Lawnmarket.
5. Site of "Burns' Tavern," in which many of the poet's convivial
meetings were held, Libberton's Wynd, (now Geo. IV.
Bridge.)
6. Site of the Old Tolbooth (Heart of Mid-Lothian) and City
Guard-House.
7. Site of Ancient Tolbooth, now of the Advocates' and Writers to
the Signet Libraries.
8. Site of Old Fish-Market.
9. Lord Roystone's House stood here.
10. City Guard-House; and, behind it, Bell's Wynd, in which an
old hospital stood, called Maison Dieu.
Queen Mary was confined, after her defeat at Carberry Hill,
in a house which formerly stood immediately to the west of
the Tron Church.
Earl of Eglinton's house is in Stamp Office Close, west side.
11. No. 177 High Street, now Macgregor's Coach-office; here the
signature of the Treaty of Union between England and Scot-
land was completed.
12. The house in which Sir Walter Scott, Bart. was born, stood
here (North College Street).
13. Site of the old Flesh and Poultry Market.
14. Site of the house in which Darnley was murdered (behind the
Infirmary); and, a little to the west, is the site of the Kirk of
Field.
22
15. Mary's Chapel, (instituted in 1505.)
16. Blackfriars' Wynd, in which Napier of Merchiston and other
remarkable Characters resided; and at the bottom of it, the
house of the Archbishop of St. Andrews, inhabited in succes-
sion by Beaton, Sharpe, &c. In the close west of this, an
ancient house, in which the Abbot of Melrose, Sir George
Mackenzie, and Lord Strichen, successively resided.
17. Scottish Mint (Cowgate).
18. House of John Knox, and site of the first Nether-bow Port.
John Knox was buried in the Parliament Close, a few feet in
front of Charles the Second's statue. The Regent Moray is
buried in the Old hurch; and the great Marquis of Montrose,
in the vestry-room of the High Church, where his escutcheon
yet remains.
19. Paul's Work (South of Regent Bridge), and House of Correction.
20. Site of the Monastery of the Blackfriars, founded by Alex-
ander II., A.D. 1230.
21. Nether-bow Port.
22. Cistertian Nunnery, dedicated to St. Mary.
23. Butchers' Stalls, ianged along the street here, in 1637.
24. Priory of St. Mary of Placentia stood here-hence the name of
The Pleasance,
25. Old Playhouse; and (nearly opposite) at the head of New Street,
was the Banking-house of Douglas, Heron, and Company; the
house of Lord Kaines; and a little down, that of Lord Hailes.
26. Regent Moray's house (now occupied as a Paper Warehouse).
In the garden behind is a beautiful Thorn, planted by Queen
Mary; and a Summer-house, in which the Treaty of Union
between England and Scotland was, in part, signed; the inter-
ruption of the Mob compelled the Commissioners to desist,
and the signature was completed, under night, in a Cellar (now
Macgregor's Coach Office, 177 High Street).-See No. 11 on
the Plan.
27. Former Town House of the Gordon Family.
28. Seton House, the residence of the Earls of Wintoun, stood here.
(See "The Abbot.") Its ruins were removed in 1770.
The house in which Gay wrote the Beggar's Opera, is opposite
Queensberry House, one door up, and still remains. See
Scot's Magazine, vol lxxiv. p. 84.
Queensberry House, Canongate, is in the County of Dumfries.
An act was passed to this effect, to enable the Duke to dis-
charge his duty as Lord Lieutenant of Dumfries, and at the
same time to live in Edinburgh,-his residence in the capital
being necessary as one of the Commissioners of the Parliament.
29. The Tower of Holyrood, in which Rizzio was murdered.
30. St. Ninian's Chapel stood here (corner of Waterloo Place). The
houses on the chapel grounds are in Stirlingshire, Parish of
St. Ninians.
23
31. First house built on the general plan of the New Town, 1773,
and occupied by the publishers of the Waverley Novels, previous
to their removal to 41 St. Andrew Square.
32. Gabriel's Road, (ride Peter's Letters, vol. ii. p. 197.) and a little
east of it, the site of Dingwall's Castle.
33. Antiquarian Society first met in this house, which was then the
residence of the Earl of Buchan.
34. Residence of David Hume, a few years before he died, (St.
Andrew Square)-his previous residence was in the Old Town,
at the back of James' Court.
35. Lord Brougham was born here.
(St. Andrew Square)
A Old Excise Office (Cowgate).
B (Brown Square.) In this house resided Henry Lord Viscount
Melville, after him Lord Succoth, and afterwards the Earl of
Traquair's family.
C Bristo Port or the Society Port.
D Once the residence of Lord Ross.
M
E Potterrow Port.
F The house in which Dr Blair lived.
G Formerly the residence of Lord Minto, now converted into a
Surgical Hospital.
H Formerly the Meal Market.
I The Exchange formerly here (Parliament Square).
K Site of the Coal Market.
L Site of an Observatory built by Colin Maclaurin, the first in Scot-
land (College Street).
M St. Mary's Port and Cowgate Port.
N Formerly the house of the Marquis of Tweeddale.
( Leith Wynd l'ort.
P Smollet, the novelist, lodged here with his Sister, during a visit
to Edinburgh (head of St. John Street).
Q Site of the Duke of Roxburghe's house.
R Tennis Court. About 1580 a Theatre here, in which "His
Majesty's Servants" from London, performed during the re-
sidence of the Duke of York in Holyrood.
S Queen Mary's Bath.
T Window of the Castle from which King James VI. of Scotland,
and I. of England, was lowered by Queen Mary.
(Near Arthur's Seat) Muschat's Cairn, mentioned in "Heart of
Mid-Lothian."
V W X (Portsburgh and Canongate). The three houses in which
Burke and Hare perpetrated their murders.
24
MEMORANDA RELATING TO THE ANTIQUITIES OF
EDINBURGH.
First town wall built 1450, (coloured green.) Previous to the erection of
the Cowgate, this wall, being in contact with the houses which form
the narrow lanes from the High Street, closed them up at the bottom;
having thus no outlet or thoroughfare, they were termed "Closes."
Cowgate built about the year 1500. For many years the residence of the
fashionables of the day.
Second town-wall built after the battle of Flodden, 1513, (coloured
brown)—the farther extension of it in 1622, coloured blue.
The boundary of the North Loch, defending the town on that side, pre-
vious to being drained, is marked out, and coloured blue.
Canongate, the principal abode of the church-men and nobility, in the
reign of James V., and for some time subsequently.
In many of the wynds from the High Street, the inscriptions "Blissit be
the Lord in al his giftis," &c., over the door-ways, distinguish build-
ings, which once were either religious edifices or houses of the
nobility. These Bible extracts were supposed by the superstitious,
to exercise a powerful protection over them.
In 1679, the Duke of York, (afterwards James VII.) resided in Holyrood,
which was completed, in its present state, about that time; and,
along with him, Mary of Modena, his duchess, and the Princess
Anne, her daughter, afterwards Queen. Abont 1681, the Parish
Church of Holyrood was made a Chapel Royal by the Duke of York;
under whose auspices, also, the building of the North Bridge, and
laying the streets with pavement, was first contemplated.
Since the erection of the Cowgate, in 1500, little addition was made to
the extent of the town, until the falling of a house, in 1751, gave
rise to an inspection of the state of the old houses, many of which
were ordered to be demolished. This was followed by a plan for
various improvements, of which the Royal Exchange was the first
(begun in 1755); then the North Bridge, in 1763.
In October 1767, the foundation-stone of the first house on the general
plan of the New Town was laid (See 31.) Brown Square and
George Square, also built about this time, each of them for some
time the most fashionable parts of the town.
Allan Ramsay's Shop, bookseller and poet, was at the north end of the
Luckenbooths, and one door up.
Lord Pitfour's house was 333 Luckenbooths, and was the last in the Old
Town, strictly so called, occupied by a family of title or fortune.
Milton House, Canongate, was the house in which the Duke of Cumber-
land held his Council of War before marching.north to fight Prince
Charles at Culloden.

SOLA SALA PA
Those Improvements which have not yet been completed are engraved
in the Map in outline only.
Objects of Interest in Edinburgh.
...
* my remata
Edinburgh Castle...
Free.
Scottish Regalia............... Order from Council Chambers.
St. Giles' Cathedral.
The Parliament House
The Advocates' Library
The Signet Library
John Knox's House
Holyrood Palace and Chapel
The College and Museum
Surgeons' Museum
Heriot's Hospital
Royal Institution, Earthen Mound
Top of Scott Monument
The Calton Hill
...
tam Y chi đội nón bài thơ bộ ban
Top of Nelson's Monument, &c.
Donaldson's Hospital
....
………….
Moray Place.
Scottish Antiquarian Museum………….
British Linen Company's Bank..…………………
The Queen's Drive round Arthur's Seat.
Botanic Gardens
Zoological Gardens
Hawthornden (on Wednesdays).
Roslin Chapel and Castle
One Shilling.
Order.
Magistrate's Order.
Free.
..
Free.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Gratuity.
Do.
···
Sixpence.
Free.
Threepence.
Governor's Order.
Order.
Free.
Free.
One Shilling.
Free.
Gratuity.