THR A TAMARET GV 995 H26 1882?10 Hardwick. H 27 The art and skill :t Lawn Tennis. **** ¦ DIFT.30 ARTES ! LIBRARY 1837 VERITAS UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN IPL FLURIOUS WHUN SCIENTIA OF THE TUEBOR 31-QUÆ HIS PENINSULA M-AM CENAM CIRCUMSPICE KWASASA TINT ܬܘ݂ܕ G V 995 H26 18823 § 2. AND ܠܐ ܚ ܐ V KANA Cop MA POR .. 118 LAS * 14: N Le Mal THE ART AND SKILL OF LAWN TENNIS. " gu By B. HARDWICK. 1 16 189 18 GENERAL LIBRARY University of WICHIGAN REPRINTED FROM THE CENTURY MAGAZINE. E. I. HORSMAN, Manufacturer, 80 & 82 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK. * Horsman's New Regulation Tennis Balls For 1882. Extract from the "Spirit of the Times," March 11, 1882. THE NEW TENNIS-BALL.As the opening of the spring season ap- proaches, the question of the balls to be used comes up for consider- ation. The weight and elasticity of the ball govern the force of the stroke. It is therefore most important that the ball used should not vary either in one respect or the other. Last year the National Association wereompelled to adopt an English make, there being absolutely no American makers competing. This year an American manufacturer comes forward and offers a ball equal in every respect to the English make, but at a lower price. Horsman, of New York, has produced, this season, a new ball fully equal to Ayies' and 25 per cent. cheaper. They are of three sorts; 1st, Felt-covered, for grass. These are covered with the best English felt, cemented and sewn. 2d, Cemented, canvas covered, known as the waterproof ball. Some of these should always be on hand, against wet or dewy days, as ordinary felt absorbs so much moisture as to materially increase the weight of the ball. 3d, Uncovered balls. These are the same size and weight as the preceding, and are useful for playing on sand or asphalt. We have carefully weighed and tested these balls, and find them fully equal to the English make, possessing even that mysteri- ous internal rattle which was regarded as the test of Ayres's make. 790 THE ART AND SKILL : OF LAWN TENNIS. BY BENJAMIN HARDWICK. REPRINTED FROM THE CENTURY MAGAZINE, Revised and Corrected by the Author. NEW YORK: PRINTED BY H. C. STOOTHOFF, 72 John Street. E A N R P C BASELINE SERVICE U LINE RIGHT COURT LEFT COURT LEFT COURT NET S NET T BASE RIGHT COURT SERVICE V LINE ดา LIN-E 이 ​Q D LAWN TENNIS. HINTS FOR BEGINNERS-SCIENTIFIC PLAY-LAWS OF THE GAME. A LEVEL piece of turf is the best site for a lawn tennis court, which should be freqnently cut, rolled, and watered. By wear- ing rubber-soled shoes, the player will secure a sure footing, and save the court, since ordinary heels cut the turf. Lay out the court as in the accompanying diagram, the lines being mar- ked with white-wash or paint, or with cord piping fastened. • down with hair-pins. First mark the sides of a parallelogram, A B (twenty-seven feet), B D (seventy-eight feet), which, with the parallel lines D C and C A, form the boundaries of a single court for a two-handed game. Extend A B to EF (thirty-six feet), and C D to G H, and draw the lines F H and E G to indicate a double court for four-handed games. Drive stakes at L and M, midway between E and G and F and H. These are to support the net, L M, which will sag too much in the middle (where it should be three feet high) unless the stakes `are held in position by cords running outward to pegs in the turf. A B and CD are called "base lines." Twenty-one feet from the net, draw the "service lines," NO and P Q. Then draw the center line, I J, and the court is complete for two, three, and four handed games. · 4 (( A few moments' observation of lawn tennis in play enables the novice to understand this simple game. It is another thing to play it well, since proficiency is a matter of natural aptitude and constant practice. For the instruction of persons who have no opportunity of seeing the game in operation, the elementary steps may be accurately indicated with the aid of the diagram. (" server," Where two persons play, one is called "striker-in,” or and the other, "striker-out.” Suppose the server to be play- ing from the side A B R T, he places one foot on, or within, the base line A I, and the other foot without. In this position he strikes the ball with the racket so as to serve it over the net into the corresponding right court, S T Q V, where the striker- out awaits it, behind the service line V Q. The striker-out lets the ball bound once, aud before it reaches the ground a sec- ond time, he must strike it back over the net so it will fall anywhere within A B T R. Now, the server is required to send it back so it will fall anywhere within C D T R, and to do this he may volley" the ball (that is, strike it before it reaches the ground), or strike it after one bound. The ball is sent thus back and forth so long as it is in play, that is, until it twice touch- es the ground, or is struck out of court or into the net, or strikes the person of either player, in which case the ball is said to be "dead." When a service ball strikes the top of the net, yet passes over, it is called a "let," and does not count. A failure to keep the ball in play makes a score for the opponent. A bail is not in play until it has been served as above into the court of the striker-out. A failure to serve within the court of the striker- out is called a "fault." Two successive faults count a score The second ball is served from the left base against the server. line, I B, into the left court, RS VP; and so on from right to left until the game is out. The modern game is counted like ancient tennis. Before either player has scored, the score is called "Love all." The first score, or ace, counts 15; the second, 15 more, or 30 all told; the third, 10 more, or 40; and the fifth scores game. When both sides are 40 at the same time, 10 it is called "deuce"; then two successive scores, on either side, are necessary to win. The first score after deuce is called "ad- vantage." If the next score is in favor of the opponent, then it is deuce again, and so on until one or the other makes two successive scores. In the second game, the striker-out becomes the server, or striker-in. They alternate as servers until one side has won six games, thereby winning the "set." EFH G indicate the boundaries of the court for four-handed games. Partners are right and left. They alternate in serving; and, in striking out, the right partner takes all balls served into the right court, and the left partner takes all balls served into the left court. The partner who is not serving usually plays in near the ser- vice line, toward his own side, or the center, it being better for the server to defend the rear of the court. In three-handed games, it is two against one, the partners playing as in four handed games. We now come to the art of the game. First, as to rackets. No good player cares to use another's racket, or to lend his own, In choosing the racket, many things should be considered. Its weight should be in proportion to the strength of the player. but it by no means follows that a weak player should choose a very light racket. If the regulation balls, manufactured by Ayres, of London, or Horsman, of New York, are used, the racket, or tennis bat, for it is called by either name, should be fourteen to fifteen ounces for a gentleman and twelve to thirteen for a lady. As soon as the game is over, the racket should be fastened in the racket-case, and put away in a dry place, but it should never be placed near a fire. The tennis ball is a very important part of a tennis outfit. Until this year our clubs have been obliged to look to Ayres of London for a first class ball. Horsman of New York has pro- duced for the season of 1882 a new ball, fully equal to the best English make. A player who goes to a store where the best American and 6 English rackets are sold will be not a little puzzled with the various shapes. We prefer the shape adopted by Jeffries of London, and Horsman of New York. Numbers 50 and 30 Rackets, made by the last-named maker, are by far the best Mil Fig. 1.-Underhand Service. bats yet made in America, and in stringing and finish compare favorably with the best English makes. As regards the stringing of a racket, the plain stringing is in most general use, although some prefer a double strung bat; the "knotted" and the "grip" cut the ball, and are no longer used. For play on very wet grass uncovered india rubber balls are preferable to felt covered, unless the felt be saturated with some preparation impervious to water. Balls not so prepared get sensibly heavier, and do not fly nearly so well as when dry. Balls can be cleaned, either by washing with soap and water, or allowed to dry thoroughly and well brushed. 7 There are three ways of serving, the underhand, the overhand, and the high service. For the simple underhand service, grasp the racket in the middle of the handle, and stooping, drop the ball, striking it with the racket full-faced. (Figure 1.) To put "side" on the ball, strike it with the racket nearly horizontal but slightly inclined forward. This will put a right- hand twist on the ball, so that when it bounds it will skew 2771 FORMA Fig. 2.-Overhand Service. toward the striker-out in a very puzzling way. If he is prepared for a straight stroke he must alter his position or play a back- hander. The overhand service (Figure 2) is made with the racket held nearly on a level with the shoulder. To produce a twist, turn the racket nearly face uppermost and drop the ball on to the surface, cutting rather than striking the ball. This will 8 give a strong left-hand twist, so that on striking the ground the ball will bound away from the opponent's right. The same result, to a greater extent, may be produced by the high service. In making it, throw the ball up nearly in a line O C Fig. 3.-High Service. Naz with the right shoulder, and in striking, hold the racket on a slant so that it will strike the ball on the right side (Figure 3). If this stroke is cleverly made, it will cause the ball to swerve while in the air, so strong is the effect of the twist, and when it strikes the ground it will bound outward. 9 There is another, the cut service, now not so frequently used It is played overhand as above, but with the racket slanted to an angle of about thirty degrees. It drives the ball forward with a strong rotatory movement, contrary to its course. The result of this is that when it strikes the ground it rises straight up, and not at the normal angle. It forces the player, who is pre- pared for an ordinary service, to run forward. In returning a service ball, or a ball in play, the player should always endeavor to drive as near the top of the net as possible without cutting into the net. All "lobs" up (to lob a ball is to drive it high above the heads of the players( are bad play unless specially required, as in the case of a forward player, when it is desirable to play over his head. There is a right and a wrong moment for taking a ball. After bounding, it should be struck when its upward momentum is spent and it is about to fall. The reason of this is clear. If the ball is struck on the rise, it will leave the racket at an obtuse angle equal to that of its inci- dence. In other words, it will lob up. The same principle must be borne in mind in taking a "skyer." It will leave the racket at a descending angle equal to that at which it strikes the racket. In fast play, you must take the ball how and when you can. It is better to hold the racket long. But for ordinary forehand play, especially where the driving is not hard the better plan is to hold the racket short and let the stroke be given more from the shoulder than the elbow. 1 There are eight principal strokes at tennis, each of which should be thoroughly mastered. In order to do this, a person anxious to become a good player should practice each separately, having the ball pitched to him at a certain spot, and standing so as to play one particular stroke until it can be played with certainty. Some strokes only occur at rare intervals, and, consequently, unless practiced separately, are never really learned. The first and principal stroke is the fore overhand. For this stroke, hold the racket short, well up to the face, with a 20 147 MIDIES 17 W... In 12 Fig. 4.-Fore Overhand Stroke. AP very slight backward incline (Figure 4). In order to play a ball in this manner, you should stand about eighteen inches to the left of its course, and strike it as it passes you. While it is of the utmost importance to be quick, more misses are made from being too quick than too slow. You should let your racket hover, as it were, a moment before striking. If you do this there will be no force in the stroke except that intended for the ball. When you have to run forward to a ball, recollect to deduct the force of your run from the force of the stroke, or you will strike out of court, and, if you run back, increase the force, as your run will deduct so much from the blow. Try to strike the ball well in the center of the racket. If you hit the wood, it is almost sure to score against you. In making this stroke the left foot should be forward, and the right back. 114 Fore underhand is a stroke made with the racket held at the 11 extreme end of the handle (Figure 5). It is most useful in taking half-volleys, quick services, and long drives. When the play is very fast and the ball is returned close over the net, the ball rises only a few inches after striking the ground. Con- sequently it must be taken underhand, or not at all. In good underhand play the ball should not be lobbed up in the air. Be e AJA 41****4-7 Fig. 5.-Fore Underhand Stroke. sure to turn the elbow well in, and return as close to the top of the net as you can. The high stroke: Where a ball passes over the player, but at a pace that will cause it to fall behind him and within the court, he should play it down just over the net. Such a ball played either at the opponent's feet or in some undefended part A 18 of the court, is almost sure to score. Be careful not to cut into the net. Back overhand (Figure 6): In case a ball twists suddenly, or is returned so quickly that you cannot get to the left of it so as to take it forehand, you must strike backhanded. The difficulty is to get behind the ball in time. The right foot SVEV NWRAK 5319 வா WE Fig. 6.-Back Overhand Stroke. should be well forward and the left back. Turn the body from the waist well to the left, so as to throw its whole weight into the stroke. The racket should be held long or half-handle. If it passes you before you strike the ball will fly to the left and out of the court. By drawing the arms in as the blow is made a very considerable twist may be imparted to the ball. 13 Back underhand (Figure 7), is a stroke given with the right foot forward and the left back. The racket must be held at the extreme end of the handle, and, as in the preceding stroke, turn the body well to the left. C 22 Name an the Fig, 7.-Back Underhand Stroke. One great point in this stroke is to keep the elbow well up at the moment of striking; it should be as nearly as possible over the ball. The result of this is that the ball will not rise over the net more than a couple of feet at the most. This stroke has a tendency to drive the ball to the opponent's left corner, which is always his weakest point, and where he can only reply by a backhanded stroke. Next to the forehand this is, perhaps, the most important stroke in the game. In these two strokes the great science of the game consists. Without them the player is, as it were, half handed, and can only play such balls as come on his right, whereas with them 14 he covers the whole space which his arm can reach on either side. Forward play overhand and underhand: These strokes are required chiefly for volleys and twisting balls For the over- Land, hold the racket short and firm. When the ball is driven At.xy Wid 44 Fig. 8.-Forward Overhand Stroke. Very hard, little more than its own returned momentum is required to send it back over the net. A very telling play in single games, when you are near the net and your opponent is at or near the base line, is to loosen the racket in the hand when the stroke is given. This stops the ball without returning its force, and drops it just over the net, where it falls long before the opponent can get to it (Figure 8). 15 Forward underhand strokes, like back underhand, are the most difficult in the game. They should be played with the elbow forward and well up (Figure 9). The effect of this is to keep the ball from rising, and to return it just over the net. 4ll 4 TILL W AFET www ind Fig. 9.-Forward Underhand Stroke. Nearly all that has been said with regard to the back under- hand applies to this stroke. Except that being played in the front of the player, there is no room to swing the racket unless it is brought down with a semi-circular twist. The elbow, as in the previous stroke, should be well up and nearly over the ball. This stroke is generally used where balls twist so sud- denly that the striker has no time either for a forehand or back handed stroke, and consequently is used to swiftly played balls, requiring very little force to return them. 16 The back stroke is very seldom used. It is a "show" play, and provokes great applause. When a ball twists so suddenly that you cannot get the racket behind it in time, pass the ricket I ehind your back and play as in Figure 10. NORTHEAS BUSE $1712211004 2 SOR ANDRE Fig. 10.-Back Stroke. -Guard and attack must always be in the player's mind, the object being to protect his own court and assail his adversary in a weak point. As to the first: After every stroke, get back to the center of your court; if the play is fast, be near the base line; if it is slow, near the service line. It is always easier to No one can play a get forward to a ball than back to it. forward game without being skillful in volleying. It is a means of attack and defense in which the great beauty of the game co sists. Half-volleys are strokes when the ball is close to the gr und and about to bound or "pitch." There are two styles of volley play, at the net, and on the service line. The first is 筛 ​: :: 17 always played overhand. It is a showy but a dangerous play, except in four-handed games, because it leaves so much of the court unprotected. The answer to it is to pl: y the ball up over the opponent's head where he cannot get it, obliquely across the court out of his reach. Volleying from tl. e surface line is a safer and a much more effective play. At the ervice line, if the ball is not struck hard by the opponent, so as o carry it out of court, it will be approaching the ground, and may be half-vollyed or taken underhand. To do this and to return close over the net is the ne plus ultra of play. Half-volleys have been described by some writers as the stroke of despair. So they may be to an inferior player, but when well played, and i laced, they are almost sure to score. And now as to "placing," which consists in returning the ball to that spot in the court where the oppor ent is not and cannot get. If he is forward, play over his hea 1; if he is near the base line, drop the ball just over the net. Also drive the ball to his right or left, whichever way will make the return most perplexing. A good player will keep his opponent ra- cing from side to side till he tires him out. Thus, if the ball be played so that while striking the ground in the right side of the opponent's court it twists outward, he must go ou of his court to take it. If it be returned with a volley to the almost impossible for him to get there in time. cannot be played away from an opponent, the most embarrass- ing play is to place it at his feet. He must then tep back to take it, and will very likely miss. eft side, it is When a ball Much of the success and all of the elegance of the game depend upon correct attitudes. It is scarcely necessary to ay that the dress should be loose, and the arms and shoulders abs lutely free. The skirt of the dress worn by ladies should be short enongh to allow the feet to be raised in running without danger of tripping. So far as the upper part of the dress is concerned, there should be no straps, bands, or anything that will deduct half an ounce of force from a stroke. The dress should not be I 18 tied tightly back, and above all, French heels should be dis- pensed with. In taking a service, the striker-out should stoop slightly, with the feet a little apart and the knees bent. This enables him to see more clearly what sort of a twist the server is giving the ball, underhand or overhand. If the twist is under- hand, it will swerve toward the striker-in, and he should be ready to play it backhanded. If the twist is overhand, it will pass to his right, and he must be prepared for a run or a long reach. It is as well to pose in front of these balls, and if they have no twist, to play them forward underhand. We would enforce three maxims: (1) Always keep cool; repress any ex- citement, and let there be an imperturbability about you which no good or ill fortune can disturb. Of couse you must move quickly from place to place, but always have your movements well in hand; get there in time and be ready for the ball,—a millionth part of a second in advance is sufficient. Let the stroke and the run be two different movements. (2) Never try to "show off." Play steady strokes until your adversary gives you an opening, and then do your best. Do not try to be always clever. An opportunity for a great stroke does not occur once in six. You cannot always make difficult returns. (3)Do not be in too great a hurry to strike the ball. Watch its pitch, its twist, and its rise, and then strike. Try to save yourself as much running about as possible. If you are a master of backhanded strokes, it will save you many a run to and fro. If your opponent is skillful at twists, be ready to play them as in Figure 8 and 9. In four-handed games, one partner plays forward and the other back. The non-server should stand well to the right or left, so as not to interfere with his partner's service, and come forward to the center of the court the moment the ball is in play. The forward partner should take those strokes that come fairly to him, leaving the others to his partner. He should not be too anxious to volley, but should play these strokes only when it can be done with effect. It cannot be too frequently enforced on 19 the attention of beginners that steady play wins more games than clever play. The player who keeps well back on the base line, and drives hard to the opposite base line, is a more formidable opponent than he looks. In such play a forward partner should not interfere till he can do so with effect. For instance, if he sees both opponents right or both left, he may volley into the unguarded space. This is useful and good play, but to dance about at the net, striking some balls and missing others, is bad play. The back partner should be, as it were, captain of the team, and call out to his partner when to leave a ball or take it. In general, the back player should keep the game going, and carefully return balls. The forward partner should try to puzzle the opponents. In other words, the forward player should be principally occupied with the attack, and the back pyer with the defense. When first introduced, lawn tennis required little more skill than battledore and shuttlecock. The only art practice was to strike as in the original game of tennis, with the racket slanting, so as put "cut" on the ball. This play was soon changed by the introduction of swift service and swift return, which drove the "cutter" to the base line of the court, and rendered cutting impossible. Up to this point the ball had always been taken after its bound, but Mr. Renshaw, of Cheltenham, first introduced the volley at the net. He was tall and possessed a long reach, with which he covered a great part of the net, and, standing close up, he played the balls down into his opponent's court in a manner that rendered their return impossible. Among his opponents was Mr. Lawford. This gentleman was easily defeated by Mr. Renshaw. He was not fully disposed of, however, for he in- vented an answer to Mr. Renshaw's play, partly by tossing the balls over his opponent's head, and partly by oblique, drives across the court out of his reach. Thus science triumphed over volleying at the net, and Mr. Renshaw retired defeated. At the next meeting at Wimbledon, the latter re-appeared with € .. 20 an entirely new play. He volleyed now from the service line. This gave him a great advantage. He had more time to get to the ball and more space to return it in. But if this play is safer in point of position, it is much more difficult of execution. Most of the returns approach the ground, and must be half- volleyed or taken underhand. The other player must judge every return with the nicest aecuracy, and, if possible, so return as to drive his opponent away from the service line. Lawn tennis has now taken its place among favorite Ameri- can sports, and there can be no doubt that it is destined to be the game of the future. If this little brochure should have helped some beginners to avoid the faults incidental to com- mencing a new game, the object of the writer will have been accomplished. RULES OF LAWN TENNIS. The accepted rules of the game are: 1. The choice of sides and the right of serving during the first game shall be decided by toss; provided that if the winner of the toss choose the right to serve, the other player shall have the choice of sides, aud vice versa. The player shall stand on opposite sides of the net; the player who first delivers the ball shall be called the Server, the other the Striker-out. At the end of the first game, the striker-out shall become server, and the server shall become striker-out; and so on alternately in the subsequent games of the set. 2. The server shall stand with one foot outside the base line, and shall deliver the service from the right and left courts alter- nately, beginning from the right. The ball served must drop within the service line, half-court line, and side line of the court which is diagonally opposite to that from which it was served, or upon any such line. 3. It is a fault if the ball served drop in the net, or beyond the service line, or if it drop out of court, or in the wrong court. 21 A fault may not be taken. After a fault, the server shall serve again from the same court from which he served that fault. 4. The service may not be volleyed, i. e., taken before it touches the ground. 5. The server shall not serve until the striker-out is ready. If the latter attempt to return the service, he shall be deemed to be ready. A good service delivered when the striker-out is not ready annuls a previous fault. 6. A ball is returned, or in play, when it is played back, over the net, before it has touched the ground a second time. 7. It is a good return, although the ball touch the net. 8. The server wins a stroke if the striker-out volley the serv- ice; or if he fail to return the service or the ball in-play; or if he return the service or ball in-play so that it drop outside any of the lines which bound his opponent's court; or if he other- wise lose a stroke, as provided by Law 10. 9. The striker-out wins a stroke, if the server serve two con- secutive faults; or if he fail to return the ball in-play; or if he return the ball in-play so that it drop outside any of the lines which bound his opponent's court; or if he otherwise lose a stroke, as provided by Law 10. 10. Either player loses a stroke if the ball in-play touch him or anything that he wears or carries, except his racket in the act of striking; or if he touch or strike the ball in play with his racket more than once. 11. On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called fifteen for that player; on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called thirty for that player; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called forty for that player; and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player; except as below: If both players have won three strokes, the score is called deuce; and the next stroke won by either player is scored ad- vantage for that player. If the same player win the next stroke, he wins the game; if he lose the next stroke, the score is again 22 called deuce; and so on until either player wins the two strokes immediately following the score of deuce, when the game is scored for that player. 12. The player who first wins six games wins a set; ex- cept as below: If both players win five games, the score is called games-all; and the next game vantage game for that player. If the same player wins the next game, he wins the set; if he lose the next game, the score is again called games-all; and so on until either player wins the two games immediately following the score of games-all, when he wins the set. Note-Players may agree not to play advantage-sets, but to decide the set by one game after arriving at the score of games- all. 13. The players shall change sides at the end of every set. When a series of sets is played, the player who was server in the last game of one set shall be striker-out in the first game of the next. THREE-HANDED AND FOUR-HANDED GAMES. The above laws shall apply to the three-handed and four- handed games, except as below: In the three-handed game, the single player shall serve in every alternate game. In the four-handed game, the pair who has the right to serve in the first game may decide which partner shall do so, and the opposing pair may decide similarly for the second game. The partner of the player who served in the first game shall serve in the third; and the partner of the player who served in the second game shall serve in the fourth; and so on in the same order in all the subsequent games of a set or series of sets. The players shall take the service alternately throughout each game; no player shall receive or return a service delivered to his partner; and the order of service and of striking-out once arranged shall not be altered, nor shall the strikers-out change courts to receive the service, before the end of the set. > A 23 CHANGES IN THE LAWS. At the meeting of the United States National Lawn Tennis Association, held in New York May, 1881, the following alter- ations were made in the preceding rules: 1. The balls must now only vary from two and a-half to two and nine-sixteenths inches in diameter, and from one and seven-eighths ounces to two ounces in weight. 2. In matches where umpires are appointed, their decision is final. 3. The server must stand, when delivering the service, "with one foot beyond (i. e., farther from the net than) the base line, and with the other foot within or upon the base line. 4. If the server does not stand as directed in the above law, or if he delivers the service from the wrong court, it is a fault, but, 5. Having served from the wrong court, and so made a fault, he shall deliver the next service from the court from which he should have served before; and, (L 6. It is further provided that a fault may not be claimed after the next service has been delivered." 7. A service, whether good or a fault, so delivered, counts for nothing. 8. A return in which the ball touches the net is still con- sidered good; but if the ball served touch the net, the service, provided it be otherwise good, counts for nothing. 9. No player must touch the net, nor any of its supports, while the ball is in play; nor must they volley the ball before it has passed the net, on penalty of losing the stroke. 10. The umpire, on appeal from either party, before the toss for choice, may direct the players to change sides at the end of every game, if, in his opinion, either side have a distinct advan- tage owing to the sun, wind, or any other accidental cause but if the appeal be made after a match has been begun, the umpire can only direct the players to change sides at the end of every game of the odd and concluding set. 6 Extract from The Spirit of the Times, February 25th, 1882. AMERICAN-MADE RACKETS.—Apròpos of our remarks on rackets last week, and in answer to numerous inquiries from our readers, we take pleasure in stating that the American manufacturer to whom we referred was Mr. E. I. Horsman, of 80 and 82 William Street, New York. Nothing but the wear and tear of several seasons will demon- strate whether the American make is fully equal to the English goods, but contrasting the two, Mr. Horsman's tennis bat appears a firmer and stiffer piece of workmanship, and certainly of superior woods. His prices are fully twenty-five per cent. below any English goods in this market. His numbers 30 and 50 are certainly excellent bats, made exactly on the model of Jeffreys, of London. MR. E. I. HORSMAN, New York. Dear Sir: It is with pleasure we testify to the merits of the lawn tennis equipments received from your house. We find your rackets, balls, &c., equal, if not superior, to anything we have ever used. MR. E. I. HORSMAN, ALBANY, N. Y., March 4th, 1882. Sz : ALBANY TENNIS CLUB, New York. HENRY C. LITTLEFIELD, Dear Sir: The members of the Brooklyn Lawn Tennis Club take great pleasure in testifying to the superior quality of tennis rackets manu- factured by you. A year or two ago it was generally supposed no tennis bat was good unless it bore the stamp of an English maker. Since that time your bats have been introduced into our club, and are now the general favorite. We find the gut used is of snperior quality, and the stringing and general workmanship equal to the best English make. Your prices are much lower than is asked for English rackets of same quality. BROOKLYN, March 1st, 1882. President. Respectfully yours, TENNIS BALLS. I would respectfully call the attention of tennis players to my New Tennis Ball for 1882. I have at last succeeded in producing a ball fully equal to the best English make, and the opinion of all leading players is that it cannot be surpassed. Respectfully, J. BRADLEY, President, C. F. GRANT, Treasurer, BROOKLYN TENNIS CLUB. 2 E. I. HORSMAN. HORSMAN'S AMERICAN INSTITU OF MEDAL Awarded to CELLENCE E.I Horsman, FOR Fine Lawn ennis. NEW-YORK Medal awarded at American Institute Fair, 1880 & 1881. CAME OF TENNIS CELEBRATED For Sale by LAWN TENNIS. 3 145 HORSMAN'S LAWN TENNIS SETS. No. 10.-Set for four Players.-Contains 2 fine inlaid handled Bats, 2 fine cork handled Bats, 12 covered regulation Balls, set of extra finished Poles, best quality Net, 36x4 feet, Boundary Pegs, Lines and Runners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, com- plete in strong box, $35 00. No. 9.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 EXTRA FINE regulation Bats, one dozen regulation Balls, fine set of Poles, best quality Net, 36x4 feet, Boundary Pegs, Lines and Runners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, complete in strong box, $30 00. No. 8.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 improved and superior regulation Bats, 4 covered regulation Balls, best quality Net, 33x4 feet, first quality Poles, Boundary Pegs, Lines and Run- ners, Mallet and Book of Instructions; complete, $25 00. No. 7.-Set for two Players.-Contains 2 STANDARD CLUB BATS of superior quality, 4 covered regulation Balls, best quality Net, 33x1 feet, fine quality Foles, Boundary Pegs, Lines and Run- ners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, complete, $20 00. No. No. 6.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 regulation Bats, 4 covered regulation Balls, superior Net, 33x4 feet, painted port- able Poles, Lines and Runners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, complete in strong box, $20 00. 5.--Set for two Players.-Contains 2 regulation Bats, 4 covered regulation Balls, superior Net, 33x4 feet, painted port- able Poles, Lines and Runners. Mallet and Book of In structions, complete in strong box, $15 00. No. 4.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 regulation Bats, 4 regu- lation Balls, Net, 27x4 feet, portable Poles, Lines and Runners. Mallet and Book of Instructions. complete in strong box, $15 00. No. 8.-Set for two Players.-Contains 2 regulation Bats, 4 regula- tion Balls, Net, 27x4 feet, portable Poles, Lines and Runners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, $10 00. No. 2.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 regulation Bats, 4 Balls, good Net, 24x4 feet, portable Poles, Lines and Runners, Mallet and Book of Instructions, complete in box, $10 00. No. 1.-Set for two Players.-Contains 2 regulation Bats, 4 regula tion Balls, good Net, 24x4 feet, portable Poles, Lines and Run Bers, Mallet and Book of Instructions, complete in box, $6 No. X.-Set for four Players.-Contains 4 strung gut Bats, 1 Balls, portable Poles, Net, 24x3, Lines and Runner, Mallet and Book, complete in box, $6 00. No. A.-Set for the Million.-Consists of 2 cord strung Bats, fold- ing Poles, Net, 3 Balls and Rope, with Instructions, in plain wooden box, $3 50. Nos. 4, 6, 7 and 8 are the most Salable Sets. Horsman's New Regulation Tennis Balls For 1882. Extract from the "Spirit of the Times," March 11, 1882. THE NEW TENNIS-BALL.-As the opening of the spring season ap- proaches, the question of the balls to be used comes up for consider- ation. The weight and elasticity of the ball govern the force of the stroke. It is therefore most important that the ball used should not vary either in one respect or the other. Last year the National Association were compelled to adopt an English make, there being absolutely no American makers competing. This year an American manufacturer comes forward and offers a ball equal in every respect to the English make, but at a lower price. Horsman of New York, has produced, this season, a new ball fully equal to Ayres', and 25 per cent. cheaper. They are of three sorts; 1st, Felt-covered, for grass. These are covered with the best English felt, cemented and sewn. 2d, Cemented, canvas covered, known as the waterproof ball. Some of these should always be on hand, against wet or dewy days, as ordinary felt absorbs so much moisture as to materially increase the weight of the ball. 3d, Uncovered balls. These are the same size and weight as the preceding, and are useful for playing on sand or asphalt. We have carefully weighed and tested these balls, and find them fully equal to the English make, possessing even that mysteri- ous internal rattle which was regarded as the test of Ayres's make. Per doz. No. A, Horsman's Best-Felt covered, Cemented and Sewed......$6.00 No. B, No. C, No. D. 66 66 46 < " 66 46 64 16 Canvas" "Uncovered, 1882 Ball. AYRE'S BEST REGULATION BALL, (for grass). << བ་ Tennis Balls, for Practice. No. 1, Regulation Lawn Tennis Balls, plain…………. 14 66 No. 2, No. 3, 6.00 {Waterproof)……. 4.00 3.00 46 64 .$8.00 $2.00 2.50 fancy.. Felt Covered and Sewed. 400 * * *** Awash Nezaman? A Morsman's No. 50. Standard Club Bat. HORSMAN MAKER Style B. This Bat is fashioned after the most approved English models, made of the best material, and in the most substantial manner. Each No. 50 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces.. No. 50 G, Gents' +6 14 to 15 66 WE OF THE NANAMING E Horsman's No. 30. Match Bat. ROASMAN MAKER 30 Style A. No. 30 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces.. No. 30 G, Gents' 66 14 to 15 66 This Bat has gained great popularity throughout the country. It is fashioned very much after No. 50, but is a trifle plaine: in finish. For good practical use it is unequalled in this country, and compares most favorably with any other make of Bat selling at $5,00. Each $4.50 4.50 NANA .$4,00 4.00 6 1 £ No. 3 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces. 14 to 15 No. 3 G, Gents' Horsman's No. 3. The shape of this bat is preferred by many players. The bowl is smaller than in other Bats, and the handle is longer. Material and stringing is the very best. Black gut is used instead of white. 66 +6 Horsman's Cork Handled Bats. " 66 No. 6 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces.... No. 6 G, Gents' 14 to 15 66 “The Newport Bat.” "" Horsman's Cork Handle, Double Strung. No. 66 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces. No. 66 G, Gents' 14 to 15 Horsman's Inlaid Handle Bats. 66 "" No. 7 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces.. 64 No. 7 G, Gents' 14 to 15 66 f. Horsman's Inlaid Double Strung. "" No. 77 L, Ladies' Bat, 11 to 13 ounces. No. 77 G, Gents' 14 to 15 (6 66 No. 10, Inlaid Handle, fine work…….. No. 20, Extra Inlaid No. 30 "6 Prize Bats. with silver mountings... Practice Bats. No. 2, Popular Bat, well made. 66 S+ No. 1, Favorite Bat, strong and durable... No. 0, Practice No. X 46 ·· (6 46 Bach ..$4.00 4.00 ·· .$5.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 7.00 7.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 C 1 7 Lawn Tennis Shoes. 6343 offel B HORSMAN'S PRIZE MEDAL EXTRA QUALITY SHOES. PAAMO No. 1. Horsman's Best Tennis Shoes. White or Colored Canvas, with Corrugated Rubber Soles. Ladies' sizes.. Boys' 66 Per pair. .$4.50 4.50 Gent's 68 .... 5.00 Ladies' Alligator Shoes.. Gent's 66 66 No. 2. Horsman's Fox-tip Shoes. White or Colored Canvas, with Corrugated Rubber Soles. Men's sizes only...... Per Pair. $3.50 . 1*w* 3.E. Ladies' Alligator Gaiters...... Gents' 64 44 4944 ......$5.00 No. 10, Ladies' Gaiters, White or Colored Canvas, with Corru- gated Rubber Soles. No. 10, Gents' Gaiters, White or Colored Canvas, with Corruga- ted Rubber Soles.... 3.18 6.00 6.50 5.50 $7.50 8.00 Horsman's Lawn Tennis Belts. 6.6 66 (( (6 No. 1, American Web (as represented in cut). No. 15, Single Strap, Nickel Trimmings.... 50 No. 25, Worsted No. 18, American No. 28, worsted CL 66 66 +6 75 75 ....1.00 66 66 66 " Boxwood Mallet.. Maple 66 ... Size. 42x4 feet, best quality .... "L 66 36x4 68 33x4 66 27x4 .66 24x4 * 66 ZUZANE HRISTABAMBILLEN ······· 66 FOR FUTUHIDE COMUN Tennis Poles. Per Pair. No. 1, Portable Ash Poles, (in two sections, with Nickel Plated Ferrules,) Polished and Ornamented.... No. 2, Portable Ash Poles, (with Brass Ferrules), Polished and Ornamented No. 3, Portable Poles, painted, (with Brass Ferrules), Ornaments on top.... No. 4, Portable Poles, painted, (with Brass Ferrules). No. 5, 66 66 66 66 6. 66 HORIAN JOURN D'ble Strap, Fine Leather " 66 66 66 66 "6 ·· Tennis Nets. (IC: 10% Each. 25 cents, 66 .. 66 • $4.50 4.00. 3.00 2.50 2.00 .50 .25 Each. $4.25 3.75 3.00 2.50 1.75 Lawn Tennis Presses. Made of Mahogany and Black Walnut, with Screws for holding $5.00 to $8.00 each. four or six Tennis Bats…….. The Rotary Tennis Court Marker. The best Court Marker made. Suitable for Grass or Asphalte Courts, with directions for use..... ..$3.50 and $5.00 each. $ 32 HORSMAN'S CELEBRATED ARCHERY. jo. 3. 4. 5. No. 1% . 18. 14. No. 12. JS. 19. 234 feet. 1. 66 21 0 0 0 -H Ito. $3. $1. 25. 3 34 3/% Polished Lancewood Bows, Plain Ends. Each. $0 12 15 No. 8 82. 434 9. 5 5% 6 4 (6 66 ... 3% feet.. 66 4 4½ 66 Lancewood Bows, Horn Tipped, with Velvet Handles. Each. | No. $0 75 15. 1 00 16. 1 25 17. 3% feet.... 66 4 66 42* 20 25 10. 30 11. 4% feet.. "" 4 feet.. " 4 5 66 "" 1.0. 21. 5 feet......** 2'. 5¼ "" 14 Fine quality Lancewood Bows, Horn Tipped, Plush Handle. Each. No. $1 00 | 20. 1 25 | 21. 1 50 22. 5 feet.... 66 5½ (6 6 Extra Quality Self Lancewood Bows. Made to Weight. Each. No. • $2 00 | 26.. 2 50 ❘ 27. 3 00 28. 5 feet... 5½ 6 เ $6 5% feet. (6 52 66 6 Lemonwood Bows. Each. No. .$4 25 30. 4 50 | 31. Each. $0 40 50 75 1 25 1 50 ··· 5% feet... 6 .66 Each. $1 50 2.00 2.25 Each. .$2.00 2 25 2 50 Each. .$3 50 3.75 4 50 Each. 4 75 5 00 AGMAN EPÄSA MANO drivetrain an 33 BEVES Lance and Hickory. Beef, Pheasant, Rosewood, Class A. Ch 66 66 66 66 Class A. 66 B... C...... A…... B... C.. 68 Class A... B... C.. Class A. St B.... C..... 1. Two Piece Bows. 66 Ladies', 5 feet long. 6.6 52 Gent's, 5 and 6 feet long.. Ladies' Backed Yews Bows. Gent's Backed Yews. Ladies' Self Yews. Gent's Self Yews. 撼 ​= Each. $5.00 6. 00 7 00 Each. $10 00 7.50 5 00 Each.. $20 00 15 00 10 00 Each. $20 00 15 00 10 00 Each, $40.00 30 00 20 00 si ... 34 CRAWFORDSVILLE, IND., May 10th, 1879. MR. E, I. HORSMAN-My Dear Sir :—I hereby grant you exclusive right to manufacture the MAURICE THOMPSON ARROW. My brother Will and I have tested them in every way. They give a lower tra- jectory and a more rapid rotary motion, and consequently are less affected by wind than any other kind of arrow. Very sincerely, yours, MAURICE_THOMPSON. Maurice Thompson's Club Arrow. Gent's....28 inch... Ladies'...25 66 No. 23. 22. Ladies'...25 2: Horsman's Club Arrows. Beefwood Footings, Solid Steel Tips and Peacock Feathers. Gent's……..28 inch…… 66 46 ** "C "C .. 66 ………… 21. 20. .25 17. 25 inch....Full Nocked. .18. 28 15. 25 16. 28 13. 25 14. 28 10. 21 11. 24 CC (& Horsman's Old Deal Arrrows. Planed out by Hand, Solid Steel Tips and Peacock Feathers. Gent's. Gent's....28 inch... " 66 12. 28 7. 21 8. 24 9. 28 5. 21 6. 24 4. 20" 3. 18 2. 16 0. 15