Badaus
UNIVERSITY MUSEUM,
G
420
C77
1818




Plate I.
CAPT:JAMES COOK, F.R.S.
UNIL
OF
WICH

S
James Cook
A VOYAGE
ΤΟ
: THE PACIFIC OCEAN;
UNDERTAKEN BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FOR MAKING DISCOVE-
RIES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE; PERFORMED UNDER THE DIREC-
TION OF
CAPTAINS COOK, CLERKE, AND GORE,
IN THE YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, 1780.
COMPILED FROM
THE VARIOUS ACCOUNTS OF THAT VOYAGE HITHERTO PUBLISHED.
Embellished with forty elegant Engravings.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
PHILADELPHIA:
PUBLISHED BY ROBERT DESILVER, NO. 110 WALNUT STREET
J. Maxwell, printer.
1818.


Museums hibe
Bradshaw H. Serales
mennial hihary
4. 18-1933
CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
-
BOOK I.
Captains Cook and Clerke appointed to the Resolution and Discovery
Preparations for the voyage--Occurrences preceding their setting sail
Departure of the Resolution Proceeds to Teneriffe-Some accounts of
the Island, inhabitants, &c.-Junction with the Discovery at the Cape
of Good Hope-Passage through Prince Edward's Islands- Arrival at
Christmas Harbour-The Coast of Kerguelan's Land explored— Arrival
at Van Diemen's Land-Interview with the Natives—Their persons,
dress, behaviour, and habitations- Arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound
-Intercourse with the natives-Particulars of the horrid massacre of
the Adventure's boat crew-Curious remarks on the inhabitants, coun-
try, &c.-Departure from New Zealand.
BOOK II.
Behaviour of the two New Zealand Youths-The Island of Mangeea with
its inhabitants described_Visit and behaviour of Mourooa-Disposition
and manners of the Mangeeans—Wateeoo discovered Mess. Gore,
Burney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on shore- Account of their re-
ception—Omai's meeting and astonishing adventure with his country-
men-Remarks concerning Wateeoo-Departure from it-Otakootaia
or We-noa-ette visited-Singularity in the natives of Hervey's Island
-Submarine grotto at Palmerston's Island-Arrival at the Friendly
Isles-Amiable character of the natives--Propensity to thieving-Of
their persons-- Transactions with them-Expedient to prevent their de-
predations--Opinions of the Islanders of a volcano-Entertainments ex-
hibited by the English and natives-Mode of shaving, &c. Visit of Pou-
laho, the king--Poulaho's inanimate Viceroy--Offering to deprecate
death-Mourning ceremonies-Sentiments concerning the soul-
Future state-Their language, &c.
c.
BOOK III.
Island of Toobouai discovered- Arrival at Otaheite-Omai's reception-
Otaheite visited by the Spaniards—Their attempts to depreciate the cha-
racter of the English-Interview with Waheiadooa, the chief of Tiaraboo
-Omai's imprudentconduct-Poultry and cattle left on the Island-Cap-
tain Cook admitted into a council of the chiefs-Reflections on a human
sacrifice-Heevas described-Girls dressed to bring a present-Man-
ner of preserving the body of a dead chief-Riding on horseback-Mock
fight between two war canoes—A curious medical operation-Otoo's art
-Omai's war canoe-Naval power, &c.

iv
CONTENTS.
BOOK III. CONTINUED.
Arrival at Taloo in Eimeo—Visit from Maheine-Goats stolen-Expedi-
tion with a party across the Island-Methods used in recovering the
goats -Island described - Arrival at Huaheine-Omai's harangue in
the assembly of chiefs-Omai's establishment here—Theft detected and
punished-Omai's behaviour at parting-Remarks on his conduct and
character Account of the two New Zealanders-Arrival at Ulietea-
Three marines desert-Conspiracy of the natives—Remarks on the
Ulieteans-Description and state of the Island-Description of Otaheite
-Natives and manners-Religion and Peculiarities- Navigation, &c.
-Christmas Isle discovered-Distress of two seamen--Island described
Three Islands discovered-Anchor at Atooi-Excursion-Customs
-Visit Oneeheow-Customs, &c.
BOOK IV.
Curious marine phenomena—Arrival at Nootka Sound--Intercourse with
the natives—Description of their persons--Their colour--Common dress
and ornaments--Occasional dresses, and monstrous decorations of wood-
en masks--Their general dispositions—Songs-Musical instruments--
Their eagerness to possess iron and other metals--Manner of building
their houses—Their furniture and utensils--Wooden images--Their
employments--Food, and manner of preparing it-Weapons-Manu-
factures and mechanic arts--Carving and painting—Canoes--Imple-
ments for fishing and hunting--Iron tools, and remarks on their method
of procuring that metal.
BOOK IV. CONTINUED.
Departure from Samganoodha--Death of Mr. Anderson-Most westerly
point of America named Cape Prince of Wales—The ships anchor in a
bay on the eastern extremity of Asia-Behaviour of the natives, the
Tschutski, to their visitors-Interview with some of them—Their wea-
pons-Persons-Ornaments-Clothing-Winter and Summer habita-
tions-Dogs—The ships cross the Strait to the coast of America-Ap-
pearance of the horizon indicating the vicinity of Ice-Prodigious fields
of ice- The situation of Icy Cape-Imminent danger of the two ships-
Sea-horses killed, and eaten-Those animals described-Flocks of birds
indicating land to the north-Observations on the formation of the ice-
Fruitless
attempt to weather Cape North- The prosecution of the voy-
age deferred to the ensuing year.

INTRODUCTION.
-
ALTHOUGH Great Britain cannot vaunt of being an early
stoop to the spirit of discovery, but in that respect must give
place to the Dutch, yet it may with truth be asserted that she
has since far surpassed them, even in their own track. In
the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, some spirited enterpri-
ses were undertaken; but afterwards, the spirit of discovery,
seemed to have totally subsided, till about the year 1741,
when by the command of his late majesty, a voyage was
undertaken under the direction of captain Middleton, for
discovering a North-west passage through Hudson's Bay.
In 1746, two ships were fitted out by subscription for the
same purpose, under the command of captains Smith and
Moor. But it was reserved for his present majesty, by that
munificence and patronage, which every liberal pursuit meets
with from him, to open friendly communications, with some
recesses of the globe, hitherto unexplored. - Captain, (now
admiral) Byron, with the ships Dolphin and Tamar, in 1764
-6; Wallis and Carteret, with the Dolphin and Swallow, in
1766—9; and Cook, with the Endeavour, in 1768–71, and
with the Resolution and Adventure, in 1772–5, carried on
a plan of discovery, which it was the purpose of the present
voyage to finish.
The intimate connexion between these voyages, render it
very necessary, to state as shortly as possible, the objects ac-
complished by the preceding voyages, and how far the inten-
tion of the present one has been answered.
In general, it may be premised, that the universal object
of all the voyages of the present reign, was to explore the vast
ocean, which extends through the whole Southern Hemis-
phere; as the result of all the researches which had hitherto
been made might be justly considered as obscure traditions,
bold fictions, and plausible conjectures; that these five differ-
ent circumnavigations have answered a better purpose, is
visible from the following observations.
Falkland's Islands in the South Atlantic ocean were barely
known to exist before Anson, and so erroneous was even his
idea of them, that he considered Pepys' Island and Falkland's
Isles to be different places; there can be no doubt that they
are the same,
from Byron and M'Bride's joint testimony:
and of them we have as exact charts, as of the coasts of Great

vi
INTRODUCTION.
Britain itself. Besides this, the discovery of Sandwich Lands,
the most southerly point yet known, and the certain accounts
we have of the Isle of Georgia, are all to be attributed to
Cook. Sir John Narborough gave us very imperfect accounts
of Magalhaen's Straits, but captains Byron, Wallis and Car-
teret, have furnished us with very accurate acounts of its
coast, harbours, headlands, bays, islands, tides, soundings,
and currents, which are a very valuable acquisition, and
should deter any future adventurers from steering that course,
especially when a much safer entrance may be had to the
Pacific ocean, by doubling Cape Horn; this navigation cap-
tain Cook has clearly shown, is by no means attended with
such danger as might be suspected from the hardships and
distresses which Anson and Pizarro suffered there; and that,
wholly owing to the season in which they were obliged to ha-
zard it. But they have not only rendered the access to the
Pacific ocean more easy, but have made us acquainted with a
far greater part of its contents.
of its contents. As the Spanish navigators
had no further design, than to get a passage to the Moluccas
and other Spice Islands, they never steered further westward,
by deviating from their track, except accidentally, and if then
they fell in with any islands, or made any discoveries, little
benefit was derived from them, their accounts being so inac-
curate as sometimes to occasion a question if such places ex-
isted. Indeed, the vast quantity of territory annexed to the
Spanish crown, and the many rich mines never wrought, ren-
dered new acquisitions by no means to be coveted; so that,
except the annual Manilla and Acapulco ship, they seldom
attempted to steer across the vast gulf which separates Asia
from America.
Other navigators in thitse seas, generally followed the
Spanish track: as indeed, their sole business there, was either
for the purpose of commerce or hostilities with them. It is
probable then, that after passing Terra del Fuego, they would
hold a northerly course to the uninhabited island of Juan
Fernandes, and thence sail along the American coast from
Chili to California, but they would either return to the At-
lantic by the same course, or steer the track of the Phillipine
galleons, as trade or rapine could be benefited by no other.
In latter years, the enterprising Dutch have made some more
certain and effectual researches in the southern latitudes of
this ocean. In 1642 Tasman's voyage will ever be remem-
bered, for the discoveries he made in a circuit, reaching
from a high southern latitude, so far north as New Guinea.

INTRODUCTION.
vii
Le Maine and Schouton in 1616, and Roggiuein in 1772,
crossing the south tropic, traversed this ocean, from Cape
Horn to the East Indies. But even the discoveries they
made, can only be considered as a proof how much might be
done. If they discovered a coast, they often declined to land;
or if they ventured, their inquiries and observations were so
futile, as not to satisfy common curiosity, much less philoso-
phical inquiry
While we thus must allow the Dutch to have been our
harbingers, it is also to be observed, that we afterwards went
beyond them even in their own track. And now successively
his majesty's ships have penetrated into the obscurest recesses
of the south Pacific ocean, will appear from a recital of their
various and extensive operations, which have adjusted the
geography of so considerable a part of the globe.
The several lands, mentioned to have been discovered by
preceding navigators, whether Spanish or Dutch have been
diligently sought after; and most of those which appeared
to be of any consequence, found out and visited; when every
method was put in practice to correct former mistakes, and
supply former deficiencies. Thus, the famous Tierra Aus-
tralia del Espiritu Santo, which was always considered a part
of a southern continent, captain Cook has defined its true po-
sition and bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides.
But besides perfecting the discoveries of their predecessors,
our late navigators have added a long catalogue of their own,
to enrich geographical knowledge. By repeatedly traversing
the Pacific ocean, within the south tropic, a seeming endless
profusion of habitable spots of land was found. Islands in-
terspersed through the amazing space of eighty degrees of
longitude, either separately scattered, or grouped in numer-
ous clusters; and such ample accounts have we received, both
of them and their inhabitants, that, to make use of the cap-
tain's own words, we have left little more to be done in that
part.
Byron, Wallis, and Carteret all contributed towards in-
creasing our knowledge of the isles in the Pacific ocean,
within the limits of the southern tropic; but how far that
ocean extended to the west, by what lands it was bounded on
that side, and the connexions of those lands with the former
discoveries, remained unknown, till captain Cook, after his
first voyage, brought back a satisfactory decision to these
questions. With wonderful skill and perseverance, amidst
.
perplexities, difficulties and dangers, he traced this coast al-

viii
INTRODUCTION.
most two thousand miles, from the 38 deg. of south latitude,
across the tropic, to its northern extremity, within 10 deg.
and a half of the equinoctial, where it joined the land, already
explored by the Dutch, which they have denominated New
Holland. Tasman's discoveries in the last century is now
completed by captain Cook, and we are fully acquainted with
the circumference of this vast body of land, which is justly
computed to be one fifth of the globe.
Although Tasman was the first discoverer of New Zealand,
yet
the small portion of it along which he sailed, rendered
his account of it so imperfect, that it was the general opinion
of geographers, that New Zealand was part of a southern
continent, running north and south from the 33 deg. to the 64
deg. of south latitude. Captain Cook having spent six months
in this country in 1769 and 70 has fully explored it, and all
its coasts; so that from his accounts, as well as that of other
visiters, it is established to be no part of a continent, but
containing the largest islands, hitherto discovered in the
southern hemisphere.
Again, captain Cook has put beyond doubt, that there is no
junction between New Holland, and New Guinea, as he
sailed through between them. Though Mr. Dalrymple and
others had discovered some traces of such a passage, yet
the
uncertainty of its practicability, as well as the importance of
the discovery, may be judged of, by reflecting that Mons.
Bougainville in 1768, rather than attempt such a passage,
sailed ninety leagues about, while reduced to feed on seal
skins from the yards and riggings, for want of provisions.
For a similar discovery to the preceding, we are indebt-
ed to captain Carteret; viz. that the land named by captain
Dampier New Britain, consists of two large and several
smaller islands, through which, by Sir George's Channel, is
a much better and shorter passage, whether from the east-
ward or westward, than round all the islands and lands to
the northward.
Byron, Wallis, and Carteret were principally employed in
exploring the south Atlantic, and knew no more of the south
Pacific than accidentally occurred in the direct tract they
held: and as captain Cook's main object in his first voyage
was to observe the transit of Venus at Otaheite, his anxiety to
be there in proper time, preventing his visiting that part of
the south Pacific, where the riches and mine of discovery
was supposed to exist. To put an end to all conjectures on
this matter, captain Cook was sent out with the Resolution
a

INTRODUCTION,
ix
and Adventure, in 1772, on the most enlarged plan of dis-
covery hitherto attempted, viz. to circumnavigate the globe
in high southern latitudes, and carefully to examine every
corner of the south Pacific, at once to determine, whether a
southern continent existed in any accessible part of the south-
ern hemisphere.
In attending captain Cook in this second voyage together
with his preceding one, we have the greatest certainty to
conclude, that many extensive continents and islands men-
tioned by former navigators, were either large fields of ice,
or existed only in the chimerical heads of the pretended dis-
coverers.
It has been, by many, considered as an unanswerable argu-
ment; that a southern continent is necessary to preserve the
due equilibrium; but from the thorough knowledge of the
greater part of the southern hemisphere, of which we are now
possessed, we may with certainty aver, that the equilibrium of
the earth is maintained, although the vast track of sea sailed
through, leaves no proportion for an equal quantity of land.
Thus though some preceding navigators have annexed
more land to the known globe, than captain Cook, to him be-
longs the honour of disclosing the extent of sea covering its
surface. To conclude our observations on this subject, we
shall make free with his own words: “I had now made the
circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitude, and traversed
it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for there
being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach
of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, I had not
only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made
there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very little to be
done in that part. Thus I Aatter myself, that the intention
of the voyage has, in every respect, been fully answered; the
southern hemisphere sufficiently explored; and a final end put
to the searching after a southern continent, which has, at
times, engrossed the attention of some of the maritime pow-
ers for near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory
amongst geographers of all nations.
From the general sketch we have already given of the pre-
ceding voyages, it is evident that, though the utmost acces-
sible extremities of the southern hemisphere had been visited,
yet our own had not; and it remained a question, how far a
northern passage between the Atlantic and Pacific ocean was
practicable, either by sailing westward round North Ameri-
.ca, or eastward round Asia.
a
VOL. I.
B

INTRODUCTION.
Could such a passage be effected, it would greatly shorten
passages to Japan, China, and the East Indies in general. But
all the attempts for this purpose proved ineffectual.*
Notwithstanding the insuperable bars which these different
navigators had experienced, the obtaining a northerly passage
was an object so desirable, that it was determined to bring
the matter to a certainty, by sending out captain Cook once
more on this important errand. Thus was this valuable com-
mander again called to expose himself to new toils and dan-
gers, in the service of mankind, although, after what he had
already done, he might have enjoyed himself at home, in
ease and plenty, without any imputation of sloth.
The various operations proposed were so new and exten-
sive, that they can best be judged of from the following in-
structions, under which he sailed: -
By the commissioners for executing the office of lord high admiral of Great
Britain and Ireland, &c.
Secret Instructions for captain fames Cook, commander of his
majesty's sloop the Resolution.
WHEREAS the earl of Sandwich has signified to us his ma-
jesty's pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find out
a northern passage by sea, from the Pacific to the Atlantic
ocean; and whereas we have, in pursuance thereof, caused
his majesty's sloops, Resolution and Discovery, to be fitted,
in all respects, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the pur-
pose above mentioned, and, from the experience we have
had of your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, ,
have thought fit to intrust you with the conduct of the pre-
sent intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to
command the first mentioned sloop, and directed captain
Clerke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for
his further proceedings. You are hereby required and di-
rected to proceed with the said two sloops directly to the
Cape of Good Hope, unless you shall judge it necessary to
stop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary islands, to
take in wine for the use of their companies; in which case
you are at liberty to do so, taking care to remain there no
longer than may be necessary for that purpose.
* The principal of these attempts were made by, 1st, Cabot, in 1496, who
discovered Newfoundland and the Labradore coast; 2d, Frobisher, in 1576;
3d, James and Fox, in 1631; 4th, Wood, in 1676; 5th, Middleto, fitted out
by government, in 1741; 6th, captains Smith and Moore, by a private so-
ciety, in 1746; lastly, lord Mulgrave, in 1773.

INTRODUCTION
xi
On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to re-
fresh the sloops' companies, and to cause the sloops to be
supplied with as much provisions and water as they can con-
veniently stow.
You
are, if possible, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by
the end of October, or the beginning of November next, and
proceed to the southward in search of some islands said to
have lately been seen by the French, in the latitude of 48°
O south, and about the meridian of Mauritius. In case you
find those islands, you are to examine them thoroughly for
a good harbour; and upon discovering one, make the neces-
sary observations to facilitate the finding it again; as a good
port, in that situation, may hereafter prove very useful, al-
though it should afford little or nothing more than shelter,
wood, and water. You are not, however, to spend too much
time in looking out for those islands, or in the examination
of them, if found, but proceed to Otaheite, or the Society
Isles, (touching at New Zealand in your way thither, if you
should judge it necessary and convenient,) and taking care
to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the
sloops' companies the refreshments they may stand in need of,
before
you prosecute the further object of these instructions.
Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you
are to land Omai at such of them as he may choose, and to
leave him there.
You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands
such part of the presents with which you have been supplied
as you shall judge proper, reserving the remainder to distri-
bute among the natives of the countries you may discover in
the northern hemisphere; and having refreshed the people be-
longing to the sloops under your command, and taken on
board such wood and water as they may respectively stand
in need of, you are to leave those islands in the beginning of
February, or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then
proceed in as direct a course as you can to the coast of
New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude
of 45° O north; and taking care in your way thither, not to
lose
any
time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you
may fall in with, unless you find it necessary to recruit your
wood and water.
You are also, in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to
touch upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the west-
ern continent of America, unless driven thither by some un-
avoidable accident; in which case you are to stay no longer
there than shall be absolutely necessary, and to be very care-

xii
INTRODUCTION
ful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabi-
tants or subjects of his Catholic majesty. And if, in your
further progress to the northward, as hereafter directed, you
find any subjects of any European prince or state upon any
part of the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not
to disturb them, or give them any just cause of offence, but,
on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friendship.
Upon your arrival in the coast of New Albion, you are to
put into the first convenient port to recruit your wood and
water, and
procure refreshments, and then to proceed north-
ward along the coast, as far as the latitude of 65°, or further,
if you are not obstructed by lands or ice; taking care not to
lose
any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any
other
account, until you get into the before-mentioned latitude of
65° where we could wish you to arrive in the month of June
next. When you get that length you are very carefully to
search for, and to explore, such rivers or inlets as may ap-
pear to be of a considerable extent, and pointing towards Hud-
son's or Baffin's Bay; and if, from your own observations, or
from any information you may receive from the natives,
(who there is reason to believe are the same race of people,
and speak the same language, of which you are furnished
with the vocabulary, as the Esquimaux,) there shall appear
to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water passage
into the afore-mentioned bays, or either of them, you are, in
such case, to use your utmost endeavours to pass through
with one or both the sloops, unless you shall be of opinion
that the passage may be effected with more certainty, or with
greater probability, by smaller vessels; in which case you are
to set up the frames of one or both the small vessels with
which you are provided, and, when they are put together,
and are properly fitted, stored, and victualled, you are to des-
patch one or both of them, under the care of proper officers,
with a sufficient number of petty officers, men, and boats, in
order to attempt the said passage; with such instructions for
their rejoining you, if they should fail, or for their further
proceedings, if they should succeed in the attempt, as you
shall judge most proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find
it more eligible to pursue any other measures than those
above pointed out, in order to make a discovery of the before-
mentioned passage, (if any such there be,) you are at liberty,
and we leave it to your discretion to pursue such measures
accordingly.
In case you shall be satisfied that there is no passage
through to the above-mentioned bays sufficient for the pur-

INTRODUCTION,
xuli
poses of navigation, you are, at the proper season of the year,
to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtschat-
ka, or wherever else you shall judge more proper, in order
to refresh your people, and pass the winter; and, in the spring
of the ensuing year 1778, to proceed from thence to the north-
ward, as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in
further search of a northwest passage from the Pacific ocean
into the Atlantic ocean or North Sea; and if, from your own
observation, or any information you may receive, there shall
appear to be a probability of such a passage, you are to pro-
ceed as above directed: and, having discovered such passage,
or failed in the attempt, make the best of your way back to
England, by such route as you may think best for the im-
provement of geography and navigation; repairing to Spit-
head with both sloops, where they are to remain till further
orders.
At whatever places you may touch in the course of your
voyage,
where accurate obseryations of the nature hereafter
mentioned have not already been made, you are, as far as
your time will allow, very carefully to observe the true situa-
tion of such places, both in latitude and longitude; the varia-
tion of the needle; bearings of head lands; height, direction,
and course of the tides and currents; depths and soundings
of the sea; shoals, rocks, &c.; and also to survey, make charts,
and take views of such bays, harbours, and different parts of
the coast, and to make such notations thereon, as may be
useful either to navigation or commerce.
You are also care-
fully to observe the nature of the soil, and the produce there-
of; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; the fishes
that are to be found in the rivers or upon the coast, and in
what plenty; and, in case there are any peculiar to such
places, to describe them as minutely, and to make as accurate
drawings of them, as you can; and, if
any metals,
minerals, or valuable stones, or any extraneous fossils, you
are to bring home specimens of each; as also of the seeds of
such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to those
places, as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to
our secretary, that proper examination and experiments may
be made of them. You are likewise to observe the genius,
temper, disposition, and number of the natives and inhabitants,
where you find any; and to endeavour, by all proper means,
to cultivate a friendship with them; making them presents of
such trinkets as you have on board, and they may like best;
inviting them to traffic; and showing them every kind of ci-
vility and regard; but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer
you find
а

xiv
INTRODUCTION.
yourself to be surprised by them, but to be always on your
guard against any accidents.
You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take pos-
session, in the name of the king of Great Britain, of conve-
nient situations in such countries as you may discover, that
have not already been discovered or visited by any other
European power; and to distribute among the inhabitants
such things as will remain as traces and testimonies of your
having been there; but if you find the countries so discover-
ed are uninhabited, you are to take possession of them for
his majesty, by setting up proper marks and inscriptions, as
first discoverers and possessors.
But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several
emergencies may arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not
particularly to be provided for by instructions beforehand,
you are, in all such cases, to proceed as you shall judge most
advantageous to the service on which you are employed.
You are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for
our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of
the surveys and drawings you shall have made; and upon
your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to
this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your
proceedings in the whole course of your voyage; taking care,
before
you
leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and
petty officers the log-books and journals, they may have kept,
and to seal them up for our inspection; and enjoining them,
and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been,
until they shall have permission so to do: and you are to di-
rect captain Clerke to do the same, with respect to the offi-
cers and crew of the Discovery.
If any accident should happen to the Resolution in the
course of the voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding
any further, you are, in such case, to remove yourself and
,
her crew into the Discovery, and to prosecute your voyage
in her; her commander being hereby strictly required to re-
ceive you on board, and to obey your orders, the same, in
every respect, as when you were actually on board the Reso-
lution: and in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise,
to carry the instructions into execution, you are to be careful
to leave them with the next officer in command, who is here-
by required to execute them in the best manner he can.
SANDWICH
Given under our hands the
C. SPENCER.
6th day of July, 1776.
H. PALLISER.
By command of their Lordships.
PH. STEPHENS.
}

INTRODUCTION.
ху
Government, now heartily in earnest, neglected no step which
might tend to promote the object in view. In 1745, a law
had passed offering a donation of 20,000l. to the discoverer
of a northern passage through Hudson's Bay, in which his
majesty's ships were excluded. This was now extended to
any ship belonging to his majesty, or any of his subjects, and
the restriction to Hudson's Bay cancelled, bearing that the
discoverer of a passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pa-
cific ocean in any direction, or parallel of the northern hemis-
phere, should be entitled, &c. As also a reward of five thou-
sand pounds, to any ship that should approach to within 1° of
the north pole. In the beginning of summer 1776, captain
Pickersgill was appointed commander of the armed brig the
Lion, and ordered to proceed to Davis's Straits, to protect
the British fishers; and in order to facilitate captain Cook's
expedition, to proceed up Baffin's Bay, and make such charts
and take such views of the several bays, harbours, &c. as
might be useful to navigators and others; and to be careful
to return in the fall of the year. Pickersgill failed in execu-
ting his commissions, and in March following lieutenant
Young was appointed to succeed him.
As the object of this voyage is immediately connected with
that of captain Cook, we have annexed a summary of his in-
structions, dated March 13th, 1777.
“That as the Resolution and Discovery had been sent out
under the command of captain Cook, to attempt the discovery
of a northern passage, by sea, from the Pacific to the Atlan-
tic ocean, and to run up as far as the 65° of north latitude,
,
and there, and as far north as he judged it proper, carefully
to search for such rivers or inlets as might appear to him
pointing towards Baffin's or Hudson's bay, or the north
seas; and to attempt a passage by these if possible: so, on
the other hand, you are to proceed to Baffin's Bay, and care-
fully to explore the western shores thereof, and if an inlet or
river is discovered seemingly pointing towards the Pacific
ocean, you are to attempt navigating the same; and if not, en-
deavour to return to England once this year.
”
But this expedition was of no service; Young was found
more calculated to assist in the glory of a victory, than ex-
plore icy mountains.
On examining these instructions, it may be questioned,
why captain Cook was not directed to commence his search,
before he arrived at 650? Why not examine Hudson's Bay,
on our side of America? Why was the western sea of John
de Fuca in latitude 47° and 48°; the Archipelago of St. La-

xvi
INTRODUCTION.
a
zarus of admiral de Fonte from 50° to 55°; and the rivers
and lakes to the northeastward, neglected? It may easily be
shown that these pretended discoveries are mere fictions, and
that the orders, not to begin his search before the 65º of
north latitude was founded upon a thorough knowledge of
the coast southward of that point.
Captain Middleton, the commander of the expedition in
Hudson's Bay, in 1741, and 42, had entertained a notion of
the probability of discovering a passage to the Pacific, and
in search of it had proceeded further north than any of his
predecessors; but he found it utterly impracticable. Mr.
.
Dobbs, however, the patron of the enterprise, upon the infor-
mation of some of Middleton's officers, ventured to accuse
him of misrepresenting facts, and that from his own accounts
of an inlet running westward in latitude 65° or 66° it was
evident he had not taken proper pains. To be at a point upon
this, he prevailed upon a society of merchants and gentlemen
to fit out the Dobbs and California to investigate this very
inlet, having previously got the 20,000l. premium established.
But this voyage abundantly established captain Middle-
ton's opinion; for the supposed straits was found to be a fresh
water river. So high had expectation been raised in favour
of this supposed passage, that notwithstanding the failure of
this expedition, it was still considered as attainable. Two
places were mentioned as the most probable, the one Ches-
terfield or Bowden's inlet, in latitude 63° or 64°, the other
Repulse Bay in latitude 67°, This last the committee who
directed the enterprise, declared to be impracticable, upon
the testimony of Mr. Ellis, the commander of the Dobbs,
and some of his officers; and the former had been fully ex-
plored, and traced 170 miles up the country, to a large lake
from whence it takes its rise, in two different voyages by
captain Christopher, in the sloop Churchill, in the
and 62.
Besides these sea voyages, the matter is much elucidated
by the journey of Mr. Hearne, who was sent out by the Hud-
son's Bay company to travel over land, as far as the Copper
Mine river, which had been much spoken of by Mr. Dobbs
and other favourers of the scheme. He set out in Decem-
ber 1770, from fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill's River
lat. 589 50', and his transactions are preserved in his written
journal. It is much to be wished that this journal were pub-
lished, as it contains a very dismal account of the wretched
situation of the miserable inhabitants of that part of the globe.
His general course was to the northwest. In June 1771,
years 1761

INTRODUCTION.
Xvii
when at a place called Conge Catha wha Chaga, he deter-
mined by two good observations, that this place is situated
24° 2' west longitude of Churchill River, and in 68° 46 north
lat tude. On the 13th of July he reached Copper Mine River;
and contrary to the idea he had been led to form of it, found
it scarcely navigable for a canoe. Without entering particu-
larly into the account Mr. Hearne gives of this river, it is
sufficient for our purpose to mention, that he found it by no
means navigable for the smallest vessels, and impossible to
be made so.
On our general chart, the particular situation
of this river, as well as the country in general, through which
Mr. Hearne passed, is accurately laid down. In fine, Mr.
Hearne's travelling 1300 miles before he arrived at the sea,
makes it clear that the continents of North America stretches
from Hudson's Bay, at least that distance to the northwest,
while his most westerly distance from Hudson's Bay was
about 600 miles; and the Indians who attended him as guides
were convinced that there existed a vast track of continent,
stretching on in the same direction. What we have now
mentioned, being sufficiently known to the first lord of the
admirality, was a good reason for his ordering captain Cook
to commence his search in latitude 65°, and not more to the
southward. But if there are any, who are still inclined to
think it should have begun earlier, we beg leave to recom-
mend to them a perusal of the Spanish voyages, particularly
that on the coast of America, in 1775, published by Mr.
Danes Barrington. In the general sketch we have now given
of the present and preceding voyages, a pretty distinct idea
may be formed, of what was intended to be done, and what
was really accomplished—- The benefits arising from them
may be enumerated as follows:
1. All visionary speculators and schemers, such as Buffon,
Campbell, and de Brosses, will find few votaries to support
their airy fanciful dreams of treasures and paradises in these
seas, as captain Cook has sufficiently investigated what is and
what is not to be found there; so, many impracticable under-
takings which would probably have taken place, will be en-
tirely prevented.
2. But unprofitable searches will not only be discouraged,
but the distresses and inconveniencies attending the naviga-
tion of these seas, in a great measure prevented. The exact
situation of the different islands are properly laid down; rocky
shores, perplexing currents, dangerous shoals, and narrow
straits accurately described: besides many other advantages,
to enumerate which, it would be necessary to transcribe great
VOL. I.
C

xviit
INTRODUCTION.
part of the journals of our several commanders. By thus
lessening the danger of these voyages, a scene of commerce
comes in view, that in a course of years will probably come to
such a height as is impossible for us at present to have any
conception of; nay, in our own day, it is highly probable that
some speedy advances will be made to form some commer-
cial establishments in the south Pacific; at least, if we do not,
we have taught the Russians and Spaniards some important
lessons in the skin-trade, and otherwise, which they will not
fail to improve.
3. The valuable accessions which human knowledge has
made by the continued plan of discovery carried on in the
present reign, cannot fail to distinguish Britain as taking the
lead in the most arduous enterprises, for the benefit of man-
kind. And were no real benefit to accrue to us, either in this
or a future age, as mentioned in the preceding article, cer-
tainly no greater scope was ever given to the dignified exer-
cise of the powers of the human mind, particularly in the
astronomical lines.
4. It is commonly observed, that acquisitions in one sci-
ence, are generally followed by acquisitions in other branch-
es; so here, the discovery of so many new places on the
globe presents to our view fresh objects of science. Upon
the report of any common sailor, much information may be
obtained; but when we consider that in these voyages,
the
labours of some of the most eminent men of the times are
united, we must be satisfied that every thing new and valu-
able throughout the wide extent of their researches are col-
lected and recorded. It is necessary here to mention that in
his second voyage, captain Cook was accompanied by sir
Joseph Banks; the obligations which (if we may use the ex-
pression) science lies under to this great man, cannot be bet-
ter expressed, than in the words of Mr. Wallis, which we
beg leave to transcribe.
* That branch of natural knowledge which may be called
nautical astronomy, was undoubtedly in its infancy, when
these voyages were first undertaken. Both instruments and
observers, which deserved the name, were very rare; and so
late as the year 1770, it was thought necessary, in the appen-
dix to Mayer's Tables, published by the Board of Longitude,
to state facts, in contradiction to the assertions of so cele-
brated an astronomer as the abbe de la Caille, that the alti-
tude of the sun at noon, the easiest and most simple of all
observations, could not be taken with certainty to a less quan-

INTRODUCTION.
xix
tity than five, six, seven, or even eight minutes.* But those
who will give themselves the trouble to look into the astro-
nomical observations made in captain Cook's last voyage, will
,
find that there were few, even of the petty officers, who could
not observe the distance of the moon from the
sun, or a star,
the
most delicate of all observations, with sufficient accuracy. It
may
be added, that the method of making and computing
observations for finding the variation of the compass is better
known, and more frequently practised by those who have
been on these voyages, than by most others. Nor is there,
perhaps, a person who ranks as an officer, and has been con-
cerned in them, who would not, whatever his real skill may
be, feel ashamed to have it thought that he did not know how
to observe for, and compute the time at sea; though, but a
short while before these voyages were set on foot, such a
thing was scarcely ever heard among seamen; and even first
rate astronomers doubted the possibility of doing it with suf-
ficient exactness.”+
* The Abbe's words are. “Si ceux qui promettent une si grande pre-
cision dans ces fortes de methodes, avoient navigue quelque temps, ils au-
roient vu souvent, que dans l'observation la plus simple de toutes, qui est
celle de la hauteur du soleil a midi, deux observations, munis de bons quar-
tiers de reflexion, biens rectifies, different entr'eux, lorsqu'ils observent
chacun a part, de 5'6'7'&8'.-Ephemer. 1755—1765. Introduct. p.
32."
It must be however mentioned, in justice to M. de la Caille, that he
attempted to introduce the lunar method of discovering the longitude, and
proposed a plan of calculations of the moon's distance from the sun and
fixed stars; but, through the imperfection of his instruments, his success was
much less than that method was capable of affording. The bringing it
into general use was reserved for Dr. Maskelyne, our astronomer royal.
See the preface to the tables for correcting the Effects of Refraction and
Parallax, published by the Board of Longitude, under the direction of Dr.
Shepherd, plumian professor of astronomy and experimental philosophy
at Cambridge, in 1772.
+ In addition to Mr. Wallis's Remark, it may be observed, that the pro-
ficiency of our paval officers in taking observations at sea must ultimately
be attributed to the great attention paid to this important object by the
Board of Longitude at home; liberal rewards having been given to ma-
thematicians for perfecting the Lunar Tables, and facilitating calculations;
and to artists for constructing more accurate instruments for observing,
and watches better adapted to keeping time at sea. It
It appears, therefore, ,
that the voyages of discovery, and the operations of the Board of Longi-
tude, went hand in hand; and they must be combined, in order to form a
just estimate of the extent of the plan carried into execution since bis ma-
jesty's accession, for improving astronomy and navigation. But, besides the
establishment of the Board of Longitude on its present footing, which has
had such important consequences, it must also ever be acknowledged that
his present majesty has extended his patronage to every branch of the
liberal arts and useful sciences. The munificent present to the Royal
Society for defrayipg the expense of observing the transit of Venus--the

INTRODUCTION.
"The number of places at which the rise and times of flow-
ing of tides have been observed, in these voyages, is very
great; and hence an important article of useful knowledge is
afforded. In these observations, some very curious and even
unexpected circumstances have offered themselves to our
consideration. It will be sufficient to instance the exceed-
ingly small height to which the tide rises in the middle of the
great Pacific ocean; where it falls short, two-thirds at least,
of what might have been expected from theory and calcula-
tion."
« The direction and force of currents at sea, make also an
important object. These voyages will be found to contain
much useful information on this head; as well relating to seas
nearer home, and which, in consequence, are navigated every
day, as to those which are more remote, but where, notwith-
standing, the knowledge of these things may be of great ser-
vice to those who are destined to navigate them hereafter.
To this head also we may refer the great number of experi-
ments which have been made for inquiring into the depth of
the sea, its temperature, and saltness at different depths, and
in a variety of places and climates.”
“An extensive foundation has also been laid for improve-
ments in magnetism, for discovering the cause and nature of
the polarity of the needle, and a theory of its variations, by
the number and variety of the observations and experiments
which have been made, both on the variation and dip, in al-
most all parts of the world. Experiments also have been
made, in consequence of the late voyages, on the effects of
gravity, in different and very distant places, which may serve
to increase our stock of natural knowledge. From the same
source of information we have learned, that the phænomenon,
usually called the aurora borealis, is not peculiar to high
northern latitudes, but belongs equally to all cold climates,
whether they be north or south.”
institution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture-the magnificent
apartments allotted to the Royal and Antiquary societies, and to the Royal
Academy at Somerset Place--the support of the Garden of Exotics at
Kew, to improve which, Mr. Mason was sent to the extremities of Africa
--the substantial encouragement afforded to learned men and learned
works, in various departments; and particularly, that afforded to Mr. Her-
schell, which has enabled him to devote himself entirely to the improve-
ment of astronomy; these, and many other instances which might be enu-
merated, would have greatly distinguished his majesty's reign, even if he
had not been the patron of those successful attempts to perfect geography
and navigation by so many voyages of discovery.

INTRODUCTION.
XX1
72
But perhaps no part of knowledge has been so great a
gainer by the late voyages, as that of botany. We are told*
that, at least, twelve hundred new plants have been added to
the known system; and that very considerable additions have
been made to every other branch of natural history, by the
great skill and industry of sir Joseph Banks, and the other
gentlement who have accompanied captain Cook for that
purpose.
To captain Cook himself, we are indebted for another im-
provement, which was the general health of his crew, during
his long voyages, and that may be observed particularly in
every passage of the succeeding volumes. Another good ef-
fect of these voyages, and that not the least of them, is the
opportunity they have afforded of studying human nature in
various situations both interesting and uncommon. However
secluded from the rest of mankind any tribe may appear to
be at this time, yet if any traces remain of a quondam ac-
quaintance with any sect or race, by history or our own ob-
servation, there cannot be seen uncultivated nature. And in
this state the islands contiguous to the continent of Asia
seem to be. But our enterprising discoverer had occasion
to observe, in the center of the Pacific ocean, tribes of fellow
creatures hitherto unknown; their manners, customs, religion,
laws, their every thing, the production of nature and neces-
sity. What a soil for philosophical inquiry!
On the one hand, our admiration is raised, in observing
their songs, their dances, their games, their processions, and
on the other, our detestation in observing them feed on hu-
man flesh.
The scholar and antiquarian consider it as a valuable ac-
quisition to discover some relique of Roman or Grecian
workmanship; but how much more is not curiosity awakened,
in observing the ingenious inventions of our newly discovered
friends in the Sandwich Isles! What rusty collection of an-
tiques can vie with the valuable addition made by Cook to
sir Ashton Lever's repository? And the expense of all his
three voyages does not exceed the expense of digging out
* See Dr. Shepherd's Preface, as above.
+ Dr. Solander, Dr. Forster and his son, and Dr. Sparman. Dr. Forster
has given us a specimen of the botanical discoveries of his voyage in the
Characteres Generum Plantarum, &c. and much curious philosophical
matter is contained in his Observations made in a Voyage round the World.
Dr. Sparman, also, on his return to Sweden, favoured us with a publica-
tion, in which he expatiates on the advantages accruing to natural history,
to astronomy, geography, general physics, and uavigation, from our South
Sea voyages.

xxii
INTRODUCTION.
the buried contents of Herculaneum. In a nation so far ad-
vanced in refinement as this, the contrast must be very
stri-
king, and to trace the transition from barbarism to civility
truly pleasing
The philosopher will find a new field of discussion opened
for him, in what may be termed the natural history of the
human species. For example, the question concerning the
existence of giants is now determined; as upon the joint tes-
timony of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, we are assured that
the inhabitants of a district bordering on the north side of the
strait of Magalhaens, considerably exceed the bulk of man-
kind in stature.
No subject can be more entertaining than to trace the va-
rious migrations of those who first peopled the globe. It was
formerly known, that the Asiatic nation, called the Malayans,
traded considerably in the Indies, not only on the side of
Asia, but also on the African coast, particularly to Mada-
gascar. But we are indebted to captain Cook for the infor-
mation, that the same nation, who are also called Phænicians,
visited, made settlements, and founded colonies at different
islands and places at vast distances from one another, and
that extending from the east side of Africa to the west side
of America, a space, including above half the circumference
of the globe; this he demonstrates, by the surest of all proofs,
viz. the affinity of language.
Connected with this, we shall mention a very important
benefit resulting from these discoveries, viz. the effectual an-
swer we have now to give those cavillers against the Mosaic
account of peopling the earth; the vicinity of the two conti-
nents of Asia and America is fully established,
When the recesses of the globe are investigated in order to
promote general knowledge, and not with a prospect of en-
larging private dominion; when we traverse the globe to visit
new tribes of our fellow creatures, as friends, wishing to learn
their existence, for the express purpose of bringing them with-
in the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve their
wants, by communicating to them our superior attainments;
the voyages projected by his gracious majesty George the
Third, and carried into execution by captain Cook, have not,
it is presumed, been entirely useless.. Some rays of light
must have been darted on the Friendly Society, and Sand-
wich islands, by our repeated intercourse with them. Their
stock of ideas must naturally be enlarged, and new materials
must have been furnished them for the exercise of their rea-
son, by the uncommon objects we exhibited to them.

INTRODUCTION.
xxiit
Convinced, by comparing themselves to their English visit-
ers, of their extreme inferiority, they will probably endea-
,
vour to emerge from it, and to rise nearer to a level with those
,
who left behind them so many proofs of their generosity
and humanity. The useful animals and vegetables introdu-
ced amongst them will certainly contribute to the comforts
and enjoyments of life.
When Great Britain was first visited by the Phænicians,
the inhabitants were painted savages, much less civilized
than those of Tongataboo, or Otaheite; and it is not impossible,
but that our late voyages may, in process of time, spread the
blessings of civilization amongst the numerous islanders of
the south Pacific ocean, and be the means of abolishing their
abominable repasts, and almost equally abominable sacrifices.

be
ald

AN ACCOUNT
OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK:
INCLUDING MANY PARTICULARS NOT MENTIONED IN THE LIFE PUBLISHED
BY AUTHORITY.
a
Embellished with an elegant Engraving of him, copied from the medal struck by the
Royal Society.
JAMES Cook was born at Marton, in Cleveland, a village
about four miles from Great Ayton, in the county of York,
and was christened there, as appears from the parish register,
November 3, 1738. His father, whose name was likewise
James, was a day labourer to Mr. Mewburn, a very respect-
able farmer, and lived in a small cottage, the walls chiefly of
mud, as was generally the case at that time in the northern
part of the kingdom. In the year 1730, when our navigator
was about two years old, his father removed with his family
to Great Ayton, and was employed as a hind by the late
Thomas Scottowe, Esq.; having the charge of a considerable
farm in that neighbourhood known by the name of Airyholm.
As the father continued long in that trust, captain Cook
was employed in assisting him in various kinds of husbandry
suited to his years, until the age
of 13. At that period he
was put under the care of Mr. Pullen, a schoolmaster, who
taught at Ayton, where he learned arithmetic, book-keeping,
&c. and is said to have shown a very early genius for figures.
About January, 1745, at the age of 17, his father bound him
apprentice to William Saunderson for four years, to learn the
grocery and haberdashery business, at Snaith, a populous
fishing town about ten miles from Whitby; but after a year
and a half's servitude, having contracted a very strong pro-
pensity to the sea, (owing probably to the maritime situation
of the place, and the great number of ships almost constant-
ly passing and repassing within sight, between London,
Shields, and Sunderland,) Mr. Saunderson was willing to in-
dulge him in following the bent of his inclination, and gave
цр his indentures. While he continued at Snaith; by Mr.
Saunderson's account, he discovered much solidity of judg-
VOL. I.
D

Xxvi
LITE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
ment, and was remarkably quick in accounts. In July 1746,
he was bound apprentice to Mr. J. Walker of Whitby, for the
term of three years, which time he served to his master's full
satisfaction. He first sailed on board the ship Freelove,
burthen about 450 tons, chiefly employed in the coal trade
from Newcastle to London. In May,
In May, 1748, Mr. Walker
ordered him home to assist in rigging and fitting for sea a
fine new ship, named the Three Brothers, about 600 tons bur-
den. This was designed as a favour to him, as it would greatly
contribute to his knowledge in his business. In this vessel
he sailed from Whitby in the latter end of June. After two
coal voyages, the ship was taken into the service of govern-
ment, and sent as a transport to Middleburgh to carry some
troops from thence to Dublin. When these were landed,
another corps was taken on board, and brought over to Liver-
pool. From thence the ship proceeded to Deptford, where
she was paid off in April 1749. The remaining part of the
season the vessel was employed in the Norway trade.
In the spring, 1750, Mr. Cook shipped himself as a seaman,
on board the Maria, belonging to Mr. John Wilkinson of
Whitby, under the command of captain Gaskin. In her he
continued all the year in the Baltic trade. Mr. Walker is
of opinion he left this ship in the winter, and sailed the fol-
lowing summer, viz. 1751, in a vessel belonging to Mr. Stock-
ton; but neither the ship's name, nor that of the owner, is
now remembered by Mr. Walker. Early in February, 1752,
Mr. Walker sent for him, and made him mate of one of his
vessels, called the Friendship, of about 400 tons burden. In
this station he continued till May or June, 1753, in the coal
trade. At that period Mr. Walker made him an offer to go
commander of that ship; but he declined it; he soon after left
her at London, and entered on board his majesty's ship Eagle,
a frigate of 28 or 30 guns, “having a mind,” as he express-
ed himself to his master, “ to try his fortune that way." Not
long after, he applied to Mr. Walker for a letter of recom-
mendation to the captain of the frigate, which was readily
granted. On the receipt of this he got some small preferment,
which he gratefully acknowledged, and ever remembered.
Some time after, the Eagle sailed with another frigate on a
cruise, in which they were very successful. After this Mr.
Walker heard no more of Mr. Cook, until August, 1758,
when he received from him a letter, dated Pembroke, before
Louisburgh, July 30, 1758, in which he gave a distinct ac-
count of our success in that expedition, but does not say
what station he then filled.
a

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
Xxvii
He received a commission as lieutenant, on the first day of
April, 1760;-and soon after gave a specimen of those abili-
ties which recommended him to the commands which he ex-
ecuted so highly to his credit, that his name will go
down to
posterity as one of the most skilful navigators which this
country hath produced.
In the year 1765, he was with sir William Burnaby on the
Jamaica station; and that officer having occasion to send des-
patches to the governor of Jucatan, relative to the logwood-
cutters in the bay of Honduras, lieutenant Cook was selected
for that employment: and he performed it in a manner which
entitled him to the approbation of the admiral. A relation
of this voyage and journey was published in the year 1769,
under the title of “Remarks on a Passage from the River
Balise in the Bay of Honduras to Merida, the capital of the
province of Jucatan in the Spanish West Indies, by lieuten-
ant Cook," in an 8vo pamphlet.
To a perfect knowledge of all the duties belonging to a sea
life, Mr. Cook had added a great skill in astronomy. In the
year 1767, the Royal Society resolved, that it would be
pro-
per to send persons into some part of the South seas, to ob-
serve the transit of the planet Venus over the Sun's disk;
and by a memorial delivered to his majesty they recommend-
ed the islands of Marquesas de Mendoza, or those of Rot-
terdam or Amsterdam, as the properest place then known for
making such observation. To this memorial a favourable
answer was returned, and the Endeavour, a ship built for the
coal trade, was put in commission, and the command of her
given to lieutenant Cook. But before the vessel was ready
to sail, captain Wallis returned from his voyage, and pointed
out Otaheite as a place more proper for the purpose of the
expedition, than either of those mentioned by the Royal So-
ciety. This alteration was approved of, and our navigator
was appointed by that learned body, with Mr. Charles Green,
to observe the transit.
On this occasion lieutenant Cook was promoted to be cap-
tain, and his commission bore date the 25th of May, 1768.
He immediately hoisted the pendant, and took command of
the ship, in which he sailed down the river on the 30th
of July. In this voyage he was accompanied by Joseph
Banks, Esq. since sir Joseph, and Dr. Solander. On the
13th of October he arrived at Rio de Janeiro, and on the 13th
of April, 1769, came to Otaheite, where the transit of Venus
was observed in different parts of the island. He staid there
until the 13th of July, after which he went in search of seve-

xviii
LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
a
ral islands, which he discovered. He then proceeded to New
Zealand, and on the 10th of October 1770, arrived at Batavia,
with a vessel almost worn out, and the crew much fatigued,
and very sickly. The repairs of the ship obliged him to con-
tinue at this unhealthy place until the 27th of December, in
which time he lost many of his seamen and passengers, and
more in the passage to the Cape of Good Hope, which place
he reached on the 15th of March, 1771. On the 14th of
April he left the Cape, and the 1st of May anchored at St.
Helena, from whence he sailed on the 4th, and came to anchor
in the Downs on the 12th of June, after having been absent
almost three years, and in that time had experienced every
danger to which a voyage of such a length is incident, and in
which he had made discoveries equal to those of all the na-
vigators of this country, from the time of Columbus to the
present. The narrative of this expedition was written by Dr.
Hawkesworth, which as the facts contained in it have not
been denied, nor the excellence of the composition disputed,
has certainly been treated with a degree of severity, which,
when every thing is considered, must excite the astonishment
of every reader of taste and sensibility.
Soon after captain Cook's return to England, it was resol-
ved to equip two ships to complete the discovery of the
southern hemisphere. It had long been a prevailing idea,
that the unexplored part contained another continent, and a
gentleman,* whose enterprising spirit has not met with the
encouragement he deserved, had been very firmly persuaded
of its existence. To ascertain the fact was the principal ob-
ject of this expedition; and that nothing might be omitted
that could tend to facilitate the enterprise, two ships were
provided, furnished with every necessary which could pro-
mote the success of the undertaking. The first of these ships
was called the Resolution, under the command of captain
Cook; the other, the Adventure, commanded by captain Fur-
Both of them sailed from Deptford on the 9th of
April, 1772, and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the
30th of October. They departed from thence on the 22d of
November, and from that time until the 17th of January, 1773,
continued endeavouring to discover the continent, when they
were obliged to relinquish the design, observing the whole
sea covered with ice from the direction of southeast, round
by the south to west. They then proceeded into the South
seas, and made many other discoveries, and returned to the
neaux.
* Alexander Dalrymple, Esq.

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
xxix
other person
Cape of Good Hope on the 21st of March, 1774, and from
thence to England, on the 14th of July; having, during three
years and eighteen days (in which time the voyage was per-
formed,) lost but one man,* by sickness, in captain Cook's
ship; although he had navigated through all the climates
from 52° north, to 71° south, with a company of an hundred
and eighteen men.
The relation of this voyage was given to the public by cap-
tain Cook himself, and by Mr. George Forster, son of Dr.
Forster, who had been appointed by government to accom-
pany him for the purpose of making observations on such na-
tural productions as might be found in the course of the na-
vigation. That published by captain Cook has generally been
ascribed to a gentleman of great eminence in the literary
world; but if the testimony of onet who was on board the
ship, and who made an extract from the Journal in its rude
uncorrected state, may be relied on, there seems no reason
to ascribe the merit of the work to
any
than he
whose name it goes under.
The want of success which attended captain Cook's attempt
to discover a southern continent, did not discourage another
plan being resolved on, which had been recommended some
,
time before. This was no other than the finding out a north-
west passage, which the fancy of some chimerical projectors
had conceived to be a practicable scheme. The dangers
which our navigator had twice braved and escaped from,
would have exempted him from being solicited a third time
to venture his person in unknown countries, amongst desert
islands, inhospitable climates, and in the midst of savages: but,
on his opinion being asked concerning the person who would
be the most proper to execute this design, he once more re-
linquished the quiets and comforts of domestic life, to engage
in scenes of turbulence and confusion, of difficulty and dan-
ger. His intrepid spirit and inquisitive mind induced him
again to offer his services; and they were accepted without
hesitation. The manner in which he had deported himself
on former occasions, left no room to suppose a fitter man
could be selected. He prepared for his departure with the
utmost alacrity, and actually sailed in the month of July, 1776.
* This was a consumption terminating in a dropsy. Mr. Pattern sur-
geon of the Resolution, observed that this man began so early to complain
of a cough and other consumptive symptoms which had never left him, that
his lungs must have been affected before he came on board.
+ Mr. Hodges.

XXX
LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
A few months after his departnre from England, notwith-
standing he was then absent, the Royal Society voted him sir
Godfrey Copley's gold medal, as a reward for the account
which he had transmitted to that body, of the method taken
to preserve the health of the crew of his ship; and sir John
Pringle, in an oration pronounced on the 30th of November,
observed “how meritorious that person must appear who had
not only made the most extensive, but the most instructive
voyages; who had not only discovered, but surveyed vast
tracts of new coasts; who had dispelled the illusion of a terra
australis incognita, and fixed the bounds of the habitable
earth, as well as those of the navigable ocean in the southern
hemisphere; but that, however ample a field for praise these
circumstances would afford, it was a nobler motive that had
prompted the society to notice captain Cook in the honour-
able manner which had occasioned his then address.” After
descanting on the means used on the voyage to preserve the
lives of the sailors, he concluded his discourse in these terms:
“ Allow me then, gentlemen, to deliver this medal, with his
unperishing name engraven upon it, into the hands of one
who will be happy to receive that trust, and to hear that this re-
spectable body never more cordially, nor more meritoriously,
bestowed that faithful symbol of their esteem and affection.
For if Rome decreed the civic crown to him who saved the
life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due to that man,
who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your trans-
actions the means by which Britain may now, on the most dis-
tant voyages, save numbers of her intrepid sons, her mariners;
who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to
the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire of their
country?”
It will give pain to every sensible mind to reflect, that this
honourable testimony to the merit of our gallant commander
never came to his knowledge. While his friends were
waiting with the most earnest solicitude for tidings concern-
ing him, and the whole nation expressed an anxious impa-
tience to be informed of his success, advice was received
from captain Clerke,* in a letter dated at Kamtschatka, the
8th day of June, 1779; advising, that captain Cook was kill-
ed on the 14th of February, 1779.
* Captain Clerke went midshipman with captain Cook in his first voy-
age, and was appointed by him a lieutenant on the death of Mr. Hicks,
who died about three weeks before the ship arrived in England.

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
xxxi
Captain Cook was a married man, and left several chil-
dren behind him. On each of these his majesty has settled a
pension of 25l. per annum, and 200l. per annum on his
widow. It is remarkable, if true as reported, that captain
Cook was god-father to his wife; and at the very time she
was christened declared that he had determined on the union
which afterwards took place between them.


TO THE MEMORY
OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,
THE ABLEST AND MOST RENOWNED NAVIGATOR THIS OR ANY OTHER
COUNTRY EVER PRODUCED.
а
He raised himself, solely by his merit, from a very obscure
birth, to the rank of post captain in the royal navy, and
was,
unfortunately, killed by the savages of the island of Owyhee,
on the 14th of February 1779; which island, he had not long
before discovered, when prosecuting his third voyage round
the globe.
He possessed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications
requisite for his profession and great undertakings; together
with the amiable and worthy qualities of the best men.
Cool and deliberate in judging: sagacious in determining:
active in executing: steady and persevering, in enterprising,
from vigilance and unremitting caution: unsubdued by la-
bour, difficulties, and disappointments: fertile in expedients:
never wanting presence of mind: always possessing himself,
and the full use of a sound understanding.
Mild, just, but exact in discipline: he was a father to his
people, who were attached to him from affection, and obedia
ant from confidence.
His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity rendered him
so entirely master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles
were surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations be-
came easy, and almost safe, under his direction.
He explored the southern hemisphere to a much higher la-
titude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents
than frequently befall those who navigate the coasts of this
island.
By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare
of his ship’s company, he discovered and introduced a sys-
tem for the preservation of the health of seamen in long voye
ages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious: for in his se-
cond voyage round the world, which continued upwards of
VOL. I.
E

*xxiv
TO THE MEMORY OF
three years, he lost only one man by distemper, of one hun-
dred and eighteen, of which his company consisted.
The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to
mankind in general; and particularly to be deplored by every
nation that respects useful accomplishments, that honours
science, and loves the benevolent and amiable affections of
the heart. It is still more to be deplored by this country,
which may justly boast of having produced a man hitherto
unequalled for nautical talents; and that sorrow is further
aggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived
of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, in-
deed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not
deserved. For, actuated always by the most attentive care
and tender compassion for the savages in general, this excel-
lent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kind treat-
ment, to dissipate their fears, and court their friendship;
overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently inter-
posing, at the hazard of his life, to protect them from the
sudden resentment of his own injured people.
The object of his last mission was to discover and ascer-
tain the bounderies of Asia and America, and to penetrate
into the Northern ocean by the northeast cape of Asia. .
Traveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this
great master in his profession; whose skill and labours have
enlarged natural philosophy; have extended nautical science;
and have disclosed the long concealed and admirable arrange-
ments of the Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at
the same time, the arrogance of mortals, in presuming to ac-
count, by their speculations, for the laws by which he was
pleased to create it. It is now discovered beyond all doubt,
that the same Great Being, who created the universe by his
fiat, by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise,
without a corresponding southern continent--and it does so!
" He stretches out the north over the empty place, and hang-
eth the earth upon nothing."-70b, xxvi. 7.
If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary
man have not discovered a new world, they have discovered
seas, unnavigated and unknown before. They have made
us acquainted with islands, people, and productions, of which
we had no conception. And if he has not been so fortunate
as Americus to give his name to a continent, his pretensions
to such a distinction remain unrivalled; and he will be rever.
ed, while there remains a page of his own modest account of
his voyages; and as long as mariners and geographers shall

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.
XXXV
be instructed, by his new map of the southern hemisphere, to
trace the various courses and discoveries he has made.
If public services merit public acknowledgments; if the
man who adorned and raised the fame of his country is de-
serving of honours, then captain Cook deserves to have a
,
monument raised to his memory, by a generous and grateful
nation.
Virtutis uberrimum alimentum est honos.
VAL. MAXIMUS, lib. 2. cap. 6.


A VOYAGE
ΤΟ
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK I.
-
Captains Cook and Clerke appointed to the Resolution and Discovery
Preparations for the voyage--Occurrences preceding their setting sail-
Departure of the Resolution-Proceeds to Teneriffe-Some account of
the Island, inhabitants, &c.-Junction with the Discovery at the Cape
of Good Hope-Passage through Prince Edward's Islands - Arrival at
Christmas Harbour The Coast of Kerguelen's Land explored- Arrival
at Van Diemen's Land-Interview with the Natives—Their persons,
dress, behaviour, and habitations- Arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound
-Intercourse with the natives-Particulars of the horrid massacre of
the Adventure's boat crew-Curious rernarks on the inhabitants, coun-
try, &c.-Departure from New Zealand.
-
On the 10th of February, 1776, captain Cook went on
board his majesty's sloop the Resolution, and hoisted the
pendant, having received a commission to command her the
preceding day. The Discovery, of three hundred tons, was,
at the same time, prepared for the service, and captain
Clerke appointed to the command of her. It may be neces-
sary to observe, that captain Clerke had been captain Cook's
second lieutenant on board the Resolution, in his second
voyage round the world. .
These two ships were then equipping in the dock at Dept-
ford, for a voyage to make farther discoveries in the Pacific
ocean, under the direction of captain Cook.
The Resolution was hauled into the river on the 9th of
March to complete her rigging, and take in stores and pro-
visions for the voyage. Both ships, indeed, were abundantly

38
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
supplied with every thing requisite for a voyage of such du-
ration. We sailed on the 29th of May, and arrived the next
day at Long Reach, where our powder and shot, and other
ordnance stores were received.
On the 8th of June, while we lay in Long Reach, we had
the satisfaction of a visit from the earl of Sandwich, sir Hugh
Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, to examine
whether every thing had been completed pursuant to their
orders, and to the convenience of those who were to embark.
They honoured captain Cook with their company to dinner
on that day; and were saluted on their coming on board,
and on their going ashore, with seventeen guns and three
cheers.
To convey some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of
Otaheite, and of the other islands which we might happen
to visit, his majesty commanded some useful animals to be
taken out. On the 10th we took on board a bull, two cows
with their calves, and some sheep; with hay and corn for
their support. We were also furnished with a sufficient quan-
tity of our valuable European garden seeds, which might add
fresh supplies of food to the vegetable productions of our
newly discovered islands.
Both the ships, by order of the board of admiralty, were
amply supplied with an extensive assortment of iron tools
and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and intercourse
with the inhabitants of such new countries as we might dis-
With respect to our wants, nothing was refused us
that might be conducive to health, comfort, or convenience.
Those at the head of the naval department were equally
solicitous to render our voyage of public utility; accordingly
we received on board, the next day, a variety of astronomical
and nautical instruments, which the board of longitude in-
trusted to captain Cook and Mr. King, his second lieutenant;
they having engaged to supply the place of a professed ob-
servator. The board, likewise, put into their possession the
time-keeper, which captain Cook had earried out in his last
voyage, and which had performed so well. It was construct
ed by Mr. Kendal, and was a copy of Mr. Harrison's.
Another time-keeper, and the same assortment of astrono-
mical and other instruments, were put on board the Dis-
covery, for the use of Mr. William Bailey, a diligent and
skilful observator, who was engaged to embark with captain
Clerke.
Mr. Anderson, surgeon to captain Cook, added to his pro-
fessional abilities a great proficiency in natural history. He
cover.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
39
had already visited the South-sea islands in the same ship,
and enabled the captain to enrich his relation of the preced-
ing voyage with remarks of use and value.
Though several young men, among the sea officers, were
capable of being employed in constructing charts, drawing
plans, and taking views of the coasts and head-lands, Mr.
Webber was engaged to embark with captain Cook, for the
purpose of supplying the defects of written accounts, by tak-
ing accurate and masterly drawings of the most memorable
scenes of our transactions.
The necessary preparations being completed; captain
Cook received orders to proceed to Plymouth, and to take
the Discovery under his command. In consequence of which,
he ordered captain Clerke to carry his ship also round to
Plymouth.
The Resolution, with the Discovery in company, sailed
from Long Reach on the 15th of June, and anchored at the
Nore the same evening. The Discovery proceeded the next
day in obedience to captain Cook's order, and the Resolution
remained at the Nore, till captain Cook, who was then in
London, should join her.
It being our intention to touch at Otaheite and the Society
Islands, it had been determined to carry Omai back to his
native country: accordingly captain Cook and he set out from
London early on the 24th, and reached Chatham between
ten and eleven o'clock, where they dined with commissioner
Proby, who afterwards ordered his yacht to convey them to
Sheerness, where the captain's boat was waiting to take
them on board the Resolution.
Though Omai left London with some degree of regret,
when he reflected upon the favours and indulgences he had
received; yet, when mention was made of his own islands,
his eyes sparkled with joy. He entertained the highest ideas
of this country and its inhabitants; but the pleasing prospect
of returning home, loaded with what would be deemed in-
valuable treasures there, and of obtaining a distinguished
superiority among his countrymen, operated so far as to sup-
press every uneasy sensation; and when he got on board the
ship, he appeared to be quite happy.
Omai was furnished, by his majesty, with quantities of
every article that were supposed to be in estination at Ota-
heite. He also received several presents from lord Sandwich,
Mr. Banks, and many others. Every method had, indeed,
been employed, during his abode in England, and at his de-
parture, to make him the instrument of conveying to his

40
À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
countrymen, an exalted opinion of British greatness and ge-
nerosity.
About noon on the 25th we weighed anchor, and made
sail for the Downs, with a gentle breeze at northwest by
west. At nine the same day we anchored, with the North
Foreland bearing south by east, and Margate Point south-
west by south.
On the 26th, at two o'clock, we weighed, and stood round
the Foreland; and at eight o'clock the same morning anchor-
ed in the Downs. Here captain Cook received two boats on
board, which had been built for him at Deal; and the next
day, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we got under sail, but
the breeze soon died away, and we anchored again. At ten
o'clock the same night we weighed again, and proceeded
down the channel.
We anchored at Plymouth Sound on the 30th at three
o'clock in the afternoon. The Discovery arrived there three
days before. We saluted admiral Amherst, whose flag was
flying on board the Ocean, and he returned the compliment.
We were employed on the 1st and 2d of July in replacing
the water and provisions we had expended, and in receiving
on board a supply of port wine. On the 8th captain Cook
received his instructions for the
voyage,
and
an order to pro-
ceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution; with
directions also to leave an order for captain Clerke to follow
him, as soon as he should join his ship, he being at that time
in London.
The officers and men on board the Resolution (including
marines) were one hundred and twelve, and those on board
the Discovery were eighty.
On the 10th of July the proper persons came on board;
and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of last month.
The petty officers and seamen received also two months
wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter is custo-
mary; but the payment of what was due to the superior of-
ficers, was in consideration of our peculiar situation, to enable
us to defray the expense of furnishing ourselves with neces-
saries for a voyage of such uncommon duration.
In the morning of the 11th, captain Cook delivered into
the hands of Mr. Burney, first lieutenant of the Discovery,
captain Clerke's sailing orders; a copy of which he also left
with the commanding officer of his majesty's ships at Ply-
mouth, to be delivered to the captain on his arrival. In the
afternoon we weighed with the ebb, and got out beyond all
the shipping in the Sound, where we were detained most of

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
41
the following day. At eight o'clock in the evening, we
weighed again, and stood out of the Sound, with a gentle
breeze at northwest by west.
Soon after we came out of Plymouth Sound, the wind came
more westerly, and blew fresh, which obliged us to ply down
the channel; and we were not off the Lizard till the 14th at
eight in the evening.
On the 16th at noon, the light-house of St. Agnes, on the
isles of Scilly, bore northwest by west, distant about seven
or eight miles; and on the 17th and 18th, we were off
Ushant.
On the 19th we stood westward till eight o'clock in the
morning, when the wind shifted, and we tacked and stretched
to the southward; here we beheld nine sail of large ships,
which we supposed to be French men of war.
On the 22d,
at ten in the morning, we saw cape Ortegal about four
leagues distant.
We had calm weather on the 22d and 23d, and on the
afternoon of the 24th, we passed cape Finisterre, with a fine
,
gale at north-northeast. Captain Cook determined to touch
-
at Teneriffe, to get a supply of hay and corn for the subsist-
ence of his animals on board, as well as the usual refresh-
ments for ourselves. We saw Teneriffe on the 31st of July,
at four in the afternoon; and at day-light on the first of
August, we sailed round the east point of that island and
anchored on the south side, in the road of Santa Cruz, about
eight o'clock, in 23 fathoms water.
There were riding in this road a French frigate, two
French brigantines, an English brigantine, and fourteen sail
of Spanish ships.
Immediately after we had anchored, we received a visit
from the master of the port, who asked the ship's name,
Upon his retiring, captain Cook sent an officer ashore, to
present his respects to the governor, and ask his permission
to take in water, and to purchase such articles, as were
thought necessary. The governor very politely complied with
captain Cook's request, and sent an officer on board to com-
pliment him on his arrival. In the afternoon captain Cook
waited upon him, accompanied by some of his officers; and
before he returned to his ship, bespoke some corn and straw,
ordered a quantity of wine, and made an agreement for a
supply of water.
The road of Santa Cruz is situated on the southeast side
of the island, before the town of the same name. It is said
to be the principal road of Teneriffe for shelter, capacity, and
VOL. I.
F

42
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
the goodness of its bottom. The water to supply the ship-
ping, and for the use of the inhabitants of Santa Cruz, is
derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, which is con-
veyed into the town in wooden troughs. As these troughs
were at this time repairing, fresh water was extremely scarce.
From the appearance of the country about Santa Cruz, it
might naturally be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren spot;
we were convinced, however, from the ample supplies we re-
ceived, that it not only produced sufficient to supply its own
inhabitants, but also enough to spare for visiters. Though
wine is the chief produce of the island, beef may be had at
about three-pence sterling a pound: the oxen, however, are
small, lean, and boney. Sheep, goats, hogs, and poultry, may
be had on terms equally reasonable. A great variety of fruits
are to be had in plenty, as pears, figs, grapes, mulberries,
musk melons, &c. besides others that were not then in sea-
son. The pumkins, potatoes, and onions which grow here,
are excellent.
Indian corn is produced on this island, and is sold at about
three shillings and sixpence per bushel: the fruits and vege-
tables are, in general, very cheap. Though the inhabitants
are but indifferently supplied with fish by the adjoining seas,
they are engaged in a considerable fishery on the coast of
Barbary, and the produce of it sells at a very moderate
price.
Teneriffe is certainly a more eligible place than Madeira,
for ships to touch at which are bound on long voyages; but
the wine of the latter is infinitely superior to that of the for-
mer: the difference of their prices is almost as considerable
as their qualities, for the best Teneriffe wine was sold for
twelve pounds a pipe, whereas a pipe of the best Madeira
was worth considerably more than double that sum.
Behind the town of Santa Cruz, the country rises gradu-
ally to a moderate height; afterwards it continues to rise
south-westward towards the celebrated pic of Teneriffe. But
we were much disappointed in our expectations with respect
to its appearance.*
The island, eastward of Santa Cruz, appears perfectly
barren. Ridges of high hills run towards the sea, between
which are deep vallies, terminating at mountains that run
across and are higher than the former.
In Sparto's History of the Royal Society, page 200, &c. is an account of a jour-
ney to the top of the pic of Teneriffe. A modern traveller, viz. the Chevalier de
Borda, who measured the height of this mountain in August 1776, makes it 12340
English feet.

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
43
On the 1st of August in the afternoon, Mr. Anderson
(captain Cook's surgeon) went on shore to one of these val-
lies, intending to reach the top of the remoter hills, but time
would not permit him to get farther than their foot. The
lower hills produce great quantities of the euphorbia cana-
riensis. The people on the spot imagine its juice to be so
caustic as to erode the skin; but Mr. Anderson convinced
them to the contrary, by thrusting his finger into a plant full
of it. The inhabitants dry the bushes of the euphorbid, and
carry them home for fuel. Santa Cruz, though not large, is
a well built city. Their churches have not a magnificent ap-
pearance without, but they are decent and tolerably hand-
some within. Almost facing the stone pier, which runs into
the sea from the town, is a marble column, lately erected,
enriched with human figures which reflect honour on the
statuary.
On the 2d of August, in the afternoon, Mr. Anderson and
three others hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna, about
the distance of four miles from Santa Cruz. They arrived
there between five and six in the evening, but the sight of it
did not reward us for our trouble, as the roads were very
bad, and our cattle but indifferent. Though the place is ex-
tensive, it hardly deserves to be dignified with the name of
a city. There is some good houses, but the disposition of
the streets is very irregular. Laguna is larger than Santa
Cruz, but much inferior to it in appearance.
The road from Santa Cruz to Laguna, runs up a steep
barren hill; but lower down, we saw some fig trees and corn
fields. The corn, however, is not produced here without
great labour, the ground being greatly encumbered with
stones. Nothing else presented itself, deserving notice, ex-
cept a few aloe plants in flower on the side of the road.
The laborious work in this island is chiefly performed by
mules, horses being scarce, and reserved for the use of the
officers. Oxen are also much employed here. Some hawks
and
parrots were seen, which were natives of the island; as
also the sea-swallow, sea-gulls, partridges, swallows, canary-
birds, and black-birds. There are also lizards, locusts, and
three or four sorts of dragon flies.
Mr. Anderson was informed, by a gentleman of acknow-
ledged veracity, that a shrub is common here, agreeing ex-
actly with the description given by Linnæus of the tea-shrub,
as growing in China and Japan. It is considered as a weed,
and large quantities are rooted out of the vineyards every
year. The Spaniards, however, who inhabit the island, some-

44
À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
times make use of it, and ascribe to it all the qualities of the
tea imported from China.
The same gentleman mentioned to Mr. Anderson another
botanical curiosity, which is called the impregnated lemon. It
is a distinct and perfect lemon inclosed within another.
A certain sort of grape growing here, is deemed an ex-
cellent remedy in phthisical complaints. The air and climate
are remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted to afford
relief in such complaints. By residing at different heights in
the island, it is in the power of any one to procure such a
temperature of air as may be best suited to his constitution.
He
may
continue where it is mild and salubrious, or he may
ascend till the cold becomes intolerable. No person, it is
said, can live comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular
height of the pic, after the month of August. Smoke con-
tinually issues from near the top of the pic, but they have
had no earthquake or eruption since 1704, when the port of
Garrachica was destroyed, being filled up by the rivers of
burning lava that flowed into it; and houses are now built,
where ships formerly lay at anchor.
The trade of Teneriffe is very considerable, forty thousand
pipes of wine being annually made there; which is consumed
in the island, or made into brandy, and sent to the Spanish
West Indies. Indeed the wine is the only considerable ar-
ticle of the foreign commerce of Teneriffe; unless we reckon
the large quantities of filtering stones brought from Grand
Canary.
The race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards
discovered the Canaries, are no longer a distinct people, hav-
ing intermarried with the Spanish settlers; their descendants,
however, may be known, from their being remarkably tall,
strong, and large boned. The men are tawny, and the women
are pale. The inhabitants in general of Teneriffe are de-
cent, grave, and civil; retaining that solemn cast which dis-
tinguishes those of their country from others. Though we
are not of opinion that our manners are similar to those of
the Spaniards, yet Omai declared, he did not think there was
much difference. He said, indeed, that they did not appear
to be so friendly as the English; and that their persons near-
ly resembled those of his countrymen.
Having got our water and other articles on board, we
weighed anchor on the 4th of August, quitted Teneriffe, and
proceeded on our voyage.
On the 10th, at nine o'clock in the evening, we saw the
island of Bonavista bearing south, dis tant about a league,
1

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
45
un-
though we then thought ourselves much farther off, but it
soon appeared we were mistaken; for, after hauling to the
eastward, to clear the sunken rocks that lie near the south-
east point of the island, we found ourselves close upon them,
and barely weathered the breakers. Our situation was, for
some minutes, so very alarming, that captain Cook did not
chuse to sound, as that might have increased the danger
without any possibility of lessening it.
Having cleared the rocks, we steered between Bonavista
and the island of Mayo; intending to look into Port Praya
for the Discovery, as captain Cook had told captain Clerke
that he should touch there. At one o'clock we saw the rocks
southwest of Bonavista, bearing southeast, distant three or
four leagues.
On Monday the 12th, at six o'clock in the morning, the
isle of Mayo bore south-southeast, distant four or five
leagues. We sounded, and found ground at sixty fathoms.
At the distance of three or four miles from this island, we
saw not the least appearance of vegetation; nothing presented
itself to our view, but that lifeless brown, so common
in
wooded countries under the torrid zone.
During our continuance among these islands, we had
gentle breezes of wind; varying from the southeast to east,
and some calms. On the 13th, at nine o'clock in the morn-
ing, we arrived before Port Praya, in the island of St. Jago,
where two Dutch East India ships and a small brigantine
were at anchor. The Discovery not being there, we did not
go in, but stood to the southward.
We lost the northeast tradewind the day after we left
the Cape de Verde islands; and on the 30th, got that which
blows from the southeast. The wind, during this interval,
was principally in the southwest quarter. It generally blew
a gentle breeze, but sometimes fresh, and in squalls. We had
few calms, and those of short duration. Between the latitude
of 12º and of 7° north, the weather was very gloomy, and
frequently rainy; insomuch, that we were enabled to save as
much water as filled the greatest part of our empty casks.
Every bad consequence is to be apprehended from these
rains, and the close sultry weather accompanying them. Com-
manders of ships ought carefully to purify the air between
decks with fires and smoke, and to oblige the people to
change their clothes at every opportunity. These necessary
precautions were strictly observed on board the Resolution
and Discovery; and we enjoyed the advantage of it, having
fewer sick than on either of captain Cook's former voyages.

46
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Our ship, however, was very leaky in all her upper works.
The sultry weather had opened her seams so wide, that the
rain-water passed through as it fell. The officers in the gun-
room were driven from their cabins, by the water that came
through the sides, and hardly a man could lie dry in his bed.
The caulkers were employed to repair these defects, as soon
as we got into fair settled weather; but captain Cook would
not trust them over the sides while we were at sea.
On the 1st of September, we crossed the equator, in the
longitude of 27° 38' west, and passed the afternoon in per-
forming the old ceremony of ducking those who had not
crossed the equator before. On the 8th, we were a little to
the southward of Cape St. Augustine. We proceeded on our
voyage, without any remarkable occurrences, till the 6th of
October. Being then in the latitude of 35° 15' south, longi-
tude 7° 45' west, we alternately met with light airs and
calms for three successive days. For some days before we
had seen albatrosses, and pintadoes, and we then saw three
penguins. In consequence of this we sounded, but found no
ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We
shot a few birds; one of which was a black petrel, about the
size of a crow.
In the evening of the 8th, a bird, which the sailors call a
noddy, settled on our rigging, and was taken. It was larger
than a common English blackbird, and nearly of the same
colour, except the upper part of the head, which was white.
It was web-footed, had black legs and a long black bill.
Though it is said these birds never venture far from land,
we knew of none nearer our station than Gough's or Rich-
mond island, which could not be less than one hundred
leagues. But, as the Atlantic Ocean, southward of us, has
been but little frequented, there may possibly be more islands
than we know of. A fresh gale from the northwest succeed-
ed this calm weather, which continued two days. After-
wards we had variable light airs for about twenty-four hours,
when the northwest wind returned, and blew fresh. On the
17th we saw the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 18th, an-
chored in Table-Bay, in four fathoms water.
After receiving the usual visit from the master-attendant
and the surgeon, captain Cook sent an officer to baron Plet-
tenbugh, the governor, and saluted the garrison with thirteen
guns, and was complimented, in return, with the same num-
ber. Two French East-India ships were in the bay, the one
outward, and the other homeward bound.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
47
After having saluted, captain Cook went on shore, accom-
panied by some of his officers, and waited on the governor,
the lieutenant-governor, the fiscal, and the commander of the
troops. These gentlemen received captain Cook with the
greatest civility; and the governor, in particular, voluntarily
promised him every assistance that the place afforded. Be-
fore captain Cook returned on board, he ordered fresh meat,
greens, &c. to be provided every day for the ship's company.
On the 22d we fixed our tents and observatory; the next
day we began to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order
to discover whether the watch had altered its rate. The
caulkers were set to work to caulk the ship; and captain
Cook had concerted measures for supplying both ships with
such provisions as were wanted; and, as the several articles
for the Resolution were got ready, they were immediately
conveyed on board.
The homeward-bound French ship sailed for Europe on
the 26th, and by her we sent letters to England. The next
day the Hampshire East-India ship from Bencoolen, anchor-
ed in the bay.
On the 31st of October, it blew excessively hard at south-
east, and continued for three days. The Resolution was the
only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging
her anchors.
The storm ceased on the 3d of Nov. and on the 6th, the
Hampshire sailed for England, in which captain Cook sent
home an invalid. On the 10th, in the morning, the Discovery
arrived in the bay. She sailed from Plymouth on the 1st of
August, and would have been with us a week sooner, had
not the late gale of wind blown her off the coast. Captain
Clerke, on his passage from England, lost one of his marines,
by falling over board. No other accident happened among
his people, and they arrived in perfect health. The next day,
the Discovery wanting caulking, captain Cook sent all his
workmen on board her, and lent every other assistance to
the captain to expedite his supply of provisions and water.
Having, by the governor's permission, taken our cattle on
shore, on the night preceding the 14th, some dogs got in
amongst the sheep, forced them out of the pen, killed four,
and dispersed the rest. We recovered six of them the next
day, but among those which were missing were two rams,
and two of the finest ewes in the whole flock. Though the
Dutch frequently boast of the police at the Cape, yet the cap-
сар-
tain's sheep evaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's officers
and people. At length, after much trouble and expense, by

48
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCLAN.
employing some of the lowest fellows of the place, we re
covered all but the two ewes. One of the rams, however,
was so miserably torn by the dogs, that we thought he would
never recover.
Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, very obligingly of-
fered to make up this loss, by giving captain Cook a Spanish
ram, out of some he had sent for from Lisbon; but the cap-
tain declined the offer, thinking it would equally answer his
purpose to take with him some of the Cape rams: in this,
however, the captain was mistaken. Mr. Hemmy had en-
deavoured to introduce European sheep at the Cape; but all
his attempts were frustrated by the obstinacy of the country
people, who highly esteem their own breed, on account of
their large tails; the fat of which sometimes produces more
money than the whole carcass besides. Indeed, the most re-
markable thing in the Cape sheep is the length and thickness
of their tails, which weigh from ten to fifteen pounds.
While the ships were repairing for the prosecution of our
voyage, Mr. Anderson, and some of our officers, made an
excursion, to take a survey of the neighbouring country.
Mr. Anderson relates their proceedings to the following
effect:
In the forenoon of Saturday the 16th of November, he and
five others, set out in a wagon, to take a view of the coun-
try. They crossed the large plain to the eastward of the
town, which is entirely a white sand, resembling that which
is commonly found on beaches. At five in the afternoon they
passed a large farm-house, some corn-fields and vineyards,
situated beyond the plain, where the soil appeared worth cul-
tivating. At seven they arrived at Stellenbosh, a colony, in
point of importance, next to that of the Cape.
The village stands at the foot of the range of lofty moun-
tains, about twenty miles to the eastward of Cape-Town, and
consists of about thirty houses, which are neat and clean: a
rivulet, and the shelter of some large oaks, planted at its first
settling, form a rural prospect in this desert country. There
are some thriving vineyards and orchards about the place,
which seem to indicate an excellent soil, though perhaps
much
may be owing to the uncommon serenity of the air.
At this season of the year, Mr. Anderson could find but
few plants in flower, and insects were very scarce.
He and
his companions left Stellenbosh the next morning, and soon
arrived at the house they had passed on Saturday; Mr.
Cloeder, the owner of which, having sent them an invitation
to visit him, they were entertained by this gentleman with
a

À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
49
great politeness and hospitality. They were received with a
band of music, which continued playing while they were at
dinner; which, in that situation, might be reckoned elegant.
In the afternoon they crossed the country, and passed some
large plantations. In the evening they arrived at a farm
house, which is said to be the first in the cultivated tract
called the Pearl. Here they had a view of Drakenstein, the
third colony of this country, which contains several little
farmas or plantations.
Plants and insects were as scarce here as at Stellenbosh,
but there was a greater plenty of shrubs, or small trees, na-
turally produced, than they had before seen in the country.
On Tuesday the 19th, in the afternoon, they went to see a re-
markable large stone, called by the inhabitants the Tower
of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond. It stands upon the top
of some low hills, and is of an oblong shape, rounded on the
top, and lying nearly south and north. The east and west
sides are nearly perpendicular. The south end is not equal.
ly steep, but its greatest height is there; whence it declines
gently to the north part, which they ascended, and had a very
extensive prospect of the whole country.
The circumference of this stone is about half a mile, as
they were half an hour walking round it, including allowan-
ces for stopping and a bad road. Its height seems to equal
the dome of St. Paul's church. Except some few fissures,
it is one uninterrupted mass of stone. The stone is of that
sort which mineralogists call Saxum Conglutinatum.
On the 20th, in the morning, they set out from the Pearl,
and going a different road, passed through an uncultivated
country to the Tyger Hills, where they beheld some toler-
able corn-fields. About noon they stopped in a valley for
refreshment, where they were plagued with a vast number of
musquitoes; and, in the evening, arrived at Cape Town.
On Saturday the 23d, we got the observatory, clock, &c.
on board. From the result of several calculations and obser-
vations, we had reason to conclude, that the watch, or time-
piece, had performed well all the way from England.
Captain Cook fearing a second disaster, got his sheep and
other cattle on board as soon as possible. He also increased
his stock by purchasing two bulls, two heifers, two stone-
horses, two mares, two rams, some ewes and goats, some poul-
try, and some rabbits.
Both ships being supplied with provisions and water suffi-
cient for two years and upwards, and every other necessary
VOL. I.

50
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
article, and captain Cook having given captain Clerke a copy
of his instructions, we repaired on board in the morning of
the 30th. A breeze sprung up at the southeast, at five in
the afternoon, with which we weighed and stood out of the
bay; at nine it fell calm, and we anchored. At three o'clock
the next morning we weighed and put to sea, with a light
breeze at south, but did not get clear of land till the 3d of
December in the morning.
On Thursday the 5th, a squall of wind carried away the
mizzen topmast of the Resolution, but we had another to
replace it.
On the evening of the 6th, being then in the lati-
tude of 39° 14' south, and the longitude of 23° 56' east, we
observed several spots of water of a reddish hue. Upon ex-
amining some of this water that was taken up, we perceived
a number of small animals, which the microscope discovered
to resemble cray-fish.
We continued to the southeast, followed by a mountainous
sea, which occasioned the ship to roll exceedingly, and ren-
dered our cattle troublesome. Several goats, especially the
males, died, and some sheep. We now began to feel the cold
in a very sensible degree.
On Thursday the 12th, at noon, we discovered land ex-
tending from southeast by south, to southeast by east. We, at
length, discovered it to be two islands. That which lies most
to the south, appeared to be about fifteen leagues in circuit,
and the most northerly one about nine leagues in circuit.
We passed at an equal distance from both islands, and could
not discever either tree or shrub on either of them. They
seemed to have a rocky shore, and, excepting the southeast
parts, a ridge of barren mountains, whose sides and summits
were covered with snow.
These two islands, and four others more to the east, were
discovered by captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, French
navigators, in January 1772, on their passage from the Cape
of Good Hope to the Phillippine Islands. As they have no
names in the French chart of the southern hemisphere, cap-
tain Cook named the two we now saw Prince Edward's
Islands, and the other four by the name of Marion's and
Corzet's Islands.
We had now in general, strong gales and very indifferent
weather. After leaving Prince Edward's Islands, we shaped
our course to pass to the southward of the four others, to get
into the latitude of the land discovered by monsieur de Ker-
guelen,

A VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
51
Captain Cook had received instructions to examine this
island, and endeavour to discover a good harbour. On the
16th we saw numbers of penguins and divers, and rock-weed
floating in the sea; and on the 21st we saw a very large seal.
The weather was now very foggy, and as we hourly expected
to fall in with the land, our navigation was both dangerous
and tedious.
On the 24th, at six in the morning, the fog clearing away
a little, we saw land, bearing south southeast, which we after-
wards found to be an island of considerable height, and about
three leagues in circuit. We soon after discovered another
of equal magnitude, about one league to the eastward; and
between these two, some smaller ones. In the direction of
south by east, another high island was seen. We did but
just weather the island last mentioned: it was a high round
rock, named Bligh's Cape. Captain Cook supposed this to
be the same that monsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of
Rendezvous; but he knew nothing that could rendezvous at
it but the fowls of the air, for it was certainly inaccessible to
every other animal.
The weather beginning to clear up about eleven, we tacked,
and steered in for land. At noon we were enabled to deter-
mine the latitude of Bligh's Cape to be 48° 29' south, and its
longitude 68° 40'. We passed it at three o'clock, with a fresh
gale at west.
Presently after we clearly saw the land, and at four o'clock
it extended from southeast to southwest by south, distant
about four miles. The left extreme, which captain Cook judged
to be the northern point of this land, called in the French
chart of the southern hemisphere Cape Francois, terminated
in a high perpendicular rock; and the right one in a high in-
dented point.
Towards the middle of the land there appeared to be an in-
let; but on our approaching it, we saw it was only a bending on
the coast; we, therefore, bore up to go round Cape Francois.
Having got off the cape, we observed the coast to the south-
ward, much indented by points and bays, and, therefore, fully
expected to find a good harbour. We soon discovered one,
into which we began to ply; but it presently fell calm, and
we anchored in forty-five fathoms water: the Discovery also
anchored there soon after. Mr. Bligh, the master, was order-
ed to sound the harbour; who reported it to be safe and com-
modious.
Early on the morning of the 25th we weighed, and having
wrought into the harbour, we anchored in eight fathoms wa-
a

52
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ter. The Discovery got in at two o'clock in the afternoon; when
captain Clerke informed us, that he had with difficulty escap-
ed being driven on the south point of the harbour, his anchor
having started before he could shorten in the cable. They
were therefore obliged to set sail, and drag the anchor after
them, till they had room to heave it up, when they perceived
that one of its palms was broken off.
Immediately after we had anchored, captain Cook ordered
all the boats to be hoisted out, and the empty water-casks to
be got ready. In the mean time he landed, to search for a
convenient spot where they might be filled, and to observe
what the place afforded.
He found vast quantities of penguins, and other birds, and
seals on the shore. The latter were not numerous, but so
insensible of fear, that we killed as many as we chose, and
made use of their fat and blubber to make oil for our lamps,
and other purposes. Fresh water was exceedingly plentiful;
but not a single tree or shrub was to be discovered, and but
little herbage of any kind; though we had flattered ourselves
with the hope of meeting something considerable growing
here, having observed the sides of some of the hills to be of
a lively green. Before captain Cook returned to his ship,
he ascended a ridge of rocks, rising one above another, ex-
pecting, by that means, to obtain a view of the country; but
before he had reached the top, so thick a fog came on, that
it was with difficulty he could find his way down again. To-
wards the evening we hauled the seine at the head of the
harbour, but caught no more than half a dozen small fish; nor
had we any better success the next day, when we tried with
hook and line. Our only resource, therefore, for fresh
pro-
visions, was birds, which were innumerable.
Though it was both foggy and rainy, on Thursday the 26th,
we began to fill water, and to cut grass for our cattle, which
we found near the head of the harbour. The rivulets were
swelled to such a degree, by the rain that fell, that the sides
of the hills, bounding the harbour, appeared to be covered
with a sheet of water.
The people having laboured hard the two successive days,
and nearly completed our water, captain Cook allowed them
the 27th of December as a day of rest, to celebrate Christ-
mas. In consequence of which, many of them went on shore,
and made excursions into the country, which they found de-
solate and barren in the extreme. In the evening one of them
presented a quart bottle to captain Cook, which he had found
on the north-side of the harbour, fastened with some wire to
a

Plate ?
Shuhe J
OF
A View of CHRISTMAS HARBOUR. in KERGELEN'S LAND.
12
CH


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
A
53
a projecting rock. This bottle contained a piece of parch-
ment, with the following inscription:
Ludovico XV.Galliarum
rege, et d* de Boynes
regi a Secretis ad res
maritimas annis 1772 et
1773.
а
It is evident, from this inscription, that we were not the
first Europeans who had visited this harbour. Captain Cook
supposes it to have been left by monsieur de Boisguehenneu,
who went on shore the 13th of February 1772, the day that
monsieur de Kerguelen discovered this land; but the captain
appears to be for once mistaken; for how could monsieur de
Boisguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an inscription
which commemorates a transaction of the following year.
Captain Cook as a memorial of our having been in this har-
bour, wrote on the other side of the parchment as follows.
Naves Resolution
et Discovery
de Rege Magnæ Britanniæ,
Decembris 1776.
He then put it again into the bottle, accompanied with a
silver two-penny piece of 1772, covered the mouth of the bottle
with a leaden cap, and placed it the next morning in a pile
of stones, erected for that purpose on an eminence, near the
place where it was first found. Here captain Cook displayed
the British flag, and named the place Christmas-Harbour, it
being on that festival we arrived in it.
It is the first inlet that we meet with on the southeast side
of Cape Francois, which forms the north side of the harbour,
and is the northern point of this land. The situation sufficiently
distinguishes it from any other inlets; and, to make it still
more remarkable, its south point terminates in a high rock,
perforated quite through, forming an appearance like the
arch of a bridge. The head of the harbour lies open to only
two points of the compass, and these are covered by islands
in the offing, so that a sea cannot fall in to hurt a ship. It is
high water here about ten o'clock at the full and change days,
and the tide rises about four feet.
In the afternoon, captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King,
his second lieutenant, went upon Cape Francois; expecting
from this elevation to have had a view of the sea coast, and
* The d is probably a contraction of the word Domine.

54
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
a
a
the islands lying off it. But they found every distant object
below them hid in a thick fog. The land even with them, or of
a greater height was visible enough, and appeared exceedingly
naked and desolate; except some hills to the southward, which
were covered with snow. When they returned to the ship,
they found her unmoored, and ready to put to sea; but we
did not weigh anchor till five o'clock the next morning.
As soon as the ships cleared Christmas Harbour, which
was on Sunday the 29th, we steered along the coast in a
southeast direction; and notwithstanding for some time past,
fogs had prevailed more or less every day, we had a fine
breeze at northwest, and clear weather. Though we kept
the lead constantly going, we seldom struck the ground with
a sixty fathom line.
About eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which
captain Cook named Cape Cumberland. It is situated about
a league and a half from the southmost point of Christmas
Harbour; and between them is a bay with two arms. Off
Cape Cumberland, is a small but high island, on the top of
which, is a rock somewhat like a sentry-box, which occasioned
our giving it that name. Two miles farther to the eastward
lie
group of other small islands, between which and Sentry-
box Island we sailed, the channel being a full mile broad, and
forty fathoms deep, having sounded with a line of that length.
Having passed through this channel, we discovered a bay
running in three leagues to the westward, which is formed by
Cape Cumberland to the north, and a promontory to the
south. This the captain named Point Pringle, in compli-
ment to sir John Pringle, president of the Royal Society.
The bottom of the bay is named Cumberland's Bay.
To the southward of this a fifth bay is formed, which was
named White Bay, on account of some white sands or rocks
in the bottom. There are also several lesser bays or coves,
which appeared to be sheltered from all winds. Off the south
point, several rocks raise their heads above water, and
pro-
bably there are many others that do not.
Thus far we had steered in a direction parallel to the coast,
and at no time more than two miles from it. We observed.
the beach to be sandy, and frequently swarming with birds,
but all along retaining the same barren and naked appearance.
Having kept on our larboard bow, the land which we first
discovered off Cape Francois, in the direction of south 53°
east, we took for an island, and expected to find a passage
between it and the main; but we found it to be a peninsula,
joined to the rest of the coast by a low isthmus. The bay
a
а

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
55
formed by this peninsula, captain Cook named Repulse Bay.
The northern point of the peninsula was named Howe's Fore-
land, in honour of lord Howe.
On our approach to it, we discovered a number of rocks
and breakers, and two islands to the eastward of it, which at
first seemed but one. About noon, we were in the middle of
,
the channel, having steered betwixt the island and the fore-
land when our latitude we found to be 48° 51' south. The
coast is but low and crowded with sea-birds. The land is
pretty high and of a rocky substance. Some seals were ob-
served upon the beaches.
Having cleared the rocks and islands before-mentioned, we
found the sea before us, to be chequered with sea-weeds,
which we were sensible were fast to the bottom. A great
depth of water is sometimes found on such shoals; notwith-
standing of which, the tops of some rocks nearly touched the
surface of the water. This makes it dangerous to sail over
them without examining them. We endeavoured to avoid
them, by sailing through the channels whereby they were se-
parated. The sea was as smooth as a mill-pond, and we
kept the lead continually going, yet never struck the ground,
even with a line of sixty fathoms. Having run in this man-
ner for an hour, we discovered a large rock even with the
water, amidst a bed of weeds; this was sufficiently alarming,
to make us take every precaution to avoid danger.
We were now about eight miles to the southward of Howe's
Foreland, across the mouth of a large bay. In this bay are
several rocks, low islands, and beds of sea-weed, but their
appeared to be winding channels between them.
We were
so much embarrassed with these shoals, that we hauled off
to the eastward in hopes of extricating ourselves from our
difficulties; but this plunged us into greater, and we found it
absolutely necessary to secure the ships, if possible before
night, especially as the weather was hazy, and a fog was ap-
prehended.
Observing some inlets to the southwest of this, captain
Clerke was ordered to lead in for the shore, as his vessel
drew less water than the Resolution; this he attempted, by
running over the edges of some shoals, having from ten to
twenty fathoms water; which so soon as he passed, he had no
ground, at the depth of fifty fathoms. About five o'clock in
the evening, captain Clerke made the signal for discovering
a harbour, in which we got to a safe anchor in a little time
thereafter, at about half a mile distant from the shore.

56
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
We were scarce settled when the wind blew very strong;
it however continued fair, and the fogs being dispersed, we
got a good view of the country round. Mr. Bligh the master
of captain Cook's vessel, was ordered ashore with two boats,
to survey the upper part of the harbour, and look out for
wood.
He also desired captain Clerke to send his master, to sound
the channel south of the small isles, and went himself in his
own boat, accompanied by Mr. Gore and Mr. Bailey, and
landed on the north point, to see what discovery could be
made from thence.
From the highest hill over the point, they had a pretty
good view of the sea-coast, as far as Howe's Foreland. It is
much indented, and several rocky points seemed to shoot out
from it, with coves and inlets of unequal extent.
One of the
latter, the end of which they could not see, was disjoined
from that in which the ships were at anchor, by the point
they then stood upon. A great many small islands, rocks,
and breakers appeared scattered along the coast, as well to
the southward as to the northward; and they saw no better
channel to get out of the harbour, than by the one through
which they had entered it.
While captain Cook and Mr. Bailey were making these ob-
servations, Mr. Gore encompassed a hill, and joined them at
the place where the boat was attending for them. There
was nothing to obstruct their walk, except some craggy pre-
cipices; the country being if possible more barren and deso-
late than that about Christmas Harbour. With regret he ob-
served, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of
any sort, and if he had left any, they must have perished. In
the little cove, where their boat was waiting for them, (which
,
captain Cook called Penguin Cove, from the immense num-
ber of those birds appearing there,) is a fine river of fresh
water, which we could approach without difficulty. Some
large seals, shags, and a few ducks, were seen here: and Mr.
Bailey had a glance of a very small land-bird, but it flew
away among the rocks and they lost it.
They got on board at nine, and Mr. Bligh returned soon
after: he reported that he had been four miles up the har-
bour probably near the top of it; he found its direction to be
southwest; its breadth near the ships about a mile, but nar-
rower farther up. He found the country very rocky, and
very little verdure of any kind. Penguins and other birds
were seen in great numbers.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Next morning we put to sea; captain Cook having named
the harbour Port Palliser. It is situated 49° 3' south lati-
tude, and 69° 37' east longitude, and lies about five leagues
southeast of Howe's Foreland.
At four leagues distance, they perceived a round hill like
a sugar loaf, which was named Mount Campbell; a low point,
beyond which no land was to be seen, bore southeast at about
twenty miles distance; we were then two leagues from shore.
The land is low and level. The mountains end about five
leagues from the low point, leaving a great extent of low land,
on which Mount Campbell is situated. These mountains
seem to be composed of naked rocks, whose summits were
covered with snow; and nothing but sterility was to be seen
in the vallies.
At noon we perceived low land, opening off the low point
just mentioned in the direction of south-southeast. It proved
to be the eastern extremity of this land, and was named Cape
Digby. The shore forms one great bay from Cape Digby
to Howe's Foreland; which produces a vast quantity of sea-
weed, of that sort which Mr. Banks distinguishes by the name
of fucus giganteus. Though the stem of this weed is not
much thicker than a man's thumb, some of it grows to the
amazing length of sixty fathoms.
We observed a small bending in the coast, about one
o'clock, on the north side of Cape Digby, for which we steer-
ed intending to anchor, which, finding impossible, we stretch-
ed forward, to make what further observations we could that
night. The coast, from Cape Digby, trends nearly south-
west by south to a low point, to which captain Cook, in
honour of her majesty, gave the name of Point Charlotte.
Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the direction of south-
southwest half west, is a pretty high projecting point, which
was called Prince of Wales's Foreland; and six leagues be-
yond that, in the same direction, and in latitude of 70° 544
south, and the longitude of 70° 13' east, is the most southerly
point of the whole coast, which he distinguished by the name
of Cape George, in honour of his majesty.
Between Point Charlotte and the Prince of Wales's Fore-
land, we discovered a deep inlet, which was called Royal
Sound; and advancing to the south, we saw another inlet into
the Royal Sound, on the southwest side of the Prince of
Wales's Foreland. On the southwest side of the Royal
Sound, all the land to Cape George, consists of elevated hills,
gradually rising from the sea, to a considerable height; they
were naked and barren, and their summits capt with snow.
VOL. I.
H

58
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
а
Not a vestige of a tree or shrub was to be seen. Some of
the low land about Cape Digby seemed to be covered with
a green turf, but a considerable part of it appeared quite
naked. Penguins and other oceanic birds, were numerous on
the beaches, and shags innumerable kept flying about our
ships.
Anxious to get the length of Cape St. George, in order to
be certain whether it was the most southerly point or not,
we stretched to the south, with all the sail we could carry; ;
but the wind shifting, we found it impossible to proceed in
that direction, and stood away from the coast.
At this time Cape George bore south 53° west, distant
about seven leagues. We observed no land to the south of
it, except a small island, that lies off the pitch of the cape;
and a southwest swell which we met, when we brought the
cape
to bear in this direction, almost convinced us, that there
was no more in that quarter.
The French discoverer imagined Cape Francois to be the
projecting point of a southern continent. The English have
discovered that no such continent exists, and that the land in
question is an island of small extent, which, from its sterility,
might properly be called the Island of Desolation; but captain
Cook was unwilling to rob monsieur de Kerguelen of the
honour of its bearing his name.
Mr. Anderson, who, during the short time we lay in
Christmas harbour, lost no opportunity of searching the
country in every direction, relates the following particulars:
No place (says he) hitherto discovered in either hemis-
phere, affords so scanty a field for the naturalist as this steril
spot. Some verdure, indeed, appeared, when at a small dis-
tance from the shore, which might raise the expectation of
meeting with a little herbage; but all this lively appearance
was occasioned by one small plant, resembling saxifrage,
which grew upon the hills in large spreading tufts, on a kind
of rotten turf, which if dried might serve for fuel, and
was the only thing seen here that could possibly be applied to
that
purpose.
Another plant, which grew to near the height of two feet,
was pretty plentifully scattered about the boggy declivities:
it had the appearance of a small cabbage when it has shot
into seeds. It had the watery acrid taste of the antiscorbutic
plants, though it materially differed from the whole tribe.
When eaten raw, it was not unlike the New Zealand scurvy-
grass; but when boiled, it acquired a rank flavour. At this
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
59
time, none of its seeds were ripe enough to be brought home,
and introduced into our English kitchen gardens.
Near the brooks and boggy places were found two other
small plants, which were eaten as sallad; the one like garden
cresses, and very hot; and the other very mild: the latter is
,
:
a curiosity, having not only male and female, but also andro-
gynus plants. Some coarse grass grew pretty plentifully in a
few small spots near the harbour, which was cut down for
our cattle.
In short, the whole catalogue of plants did not
exceed eighteen, including a beautiful species of lichen and
several sorts of moss. Nor was there the appearance of a tree
or shrub in the whole country.
Among the animals, the most considerable were seals,
which were distinguished by the name of sea-bears; being
the sort that are called the ursine seal. They came on shore
to repose and breed. At that time they were shedding their
hair, and so remarkably tame, that there was no difficulty in
killing them.
No other quadruped was seen; but a great number of
oceanic birds, as ducks, shags, petrels, &c. The ducks were
somewhat like a widgeon, both in size and figure; a con-
siderable number of them were killed and eaten: they were
excellent food, and had not the least fishy taste.
The Cape petrel, the small blue one, and the small black
one, or Mother Carey's chicken, were not plenty here; but
another sort, which is the largest of the petrels, and called
by the seamen Mother Carey's goose, is found in abundance.
This petrel is as large as an albatross, and is carnivorous, feed-
ing on the dead carcasses of seals, birds, &c.
The greatest number of birds here were penguins, which
consist of three sorts. The head of the largest is black, the
upper part of the body of a leaden-gray, the under part white,
and the feet black; two broad stripes of fine yellow descend
from the head to the breast; the bill is of a reddish colour,
and longer than in the other sorts. The second sort is about
half the size of the former. It is of a
It is of a blackish gray on the
upper part of the body, and has a white spot on the upper
part of the head. The bill and feet are yellowish. In the
third sort, the upper part of the body and throat are black,
the rest white, except the top of the head, which is orna-
mented with a fine yellow arch, which it can erect as two
crests.
The shags here were of two sorts, viz. the lesser cormo-
rant, or water crow, and another with a blackish back and a
a

60
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
a
white belly. The sea-swallow, the tern, the common sea-gull,
and the Port Egmont hen, were also found here.
Large flocks of a singular kind of white bird flew about
here, having the base of the bill covered with a horny crust.
It had a black bill and white feet, was somewhat larger than
a pigeon, and the flesh tasted like that of a duck.
The seine was once hauled, when we found a few fish about
the size of a small haddock. The only shell-fish we saw here,
were a few limpets and muscles.
Many of the hills, notwithstanding they were of a mode-
rate height, were at that time covered with snow, though
answering to our June. It is reasonable to imagine that rain
must be very frequent here, as well from the marks of large
torrents having rushed down; as from the appearance of the
country, which, even on the hills, was a continued bog or
swamp.
The rocks consist principally of a dark blue and very
hard
stone, intermixed with particles of glimmer or quartz. Some
considerable rocks were also formed here from a brownish
brittle stone.
Having left Kerguelen's land, captain Cook steered east
by north in order to proceed to New Zealand, according to
his instructions, for the purpose of taking in wood and water,
and hay for the cattle; of which last article our stock was
now considerably reduced. The 31st of December our lon-
gitude by observation of the sun and moon, was 72° 33' 36"
east; and on the first day of the year 1777 we were in the
latitude of 58° 41' south, longitude 76° 50' east. Till the
third of January the weather was tolerably clear, with fresh
gales from the west and southwest; but now the wind veered
to the north, and continued in that quarter eight days; during
which, though there was at the same time a thick fog, we ran
upwards of three hundred leagues, chiefly in the dark; the
sun, indeed, sometimes made its appearance, but very rarely.
.
On the 7th captain Cook dispatched a boat with orders to
captain Clerke, fixing their rendezvous at Adventure Bay, in
Van Diemen's Land, if the ships should happen to separate
before they arrived there; however, we had the good fortune
not to lose company with each other. On Sunday the 12th,
the northerly winds were succeeded by a calm, which was
soon followed by a southerly wind. Our latitude was now
48° 40' south, longitude 110° 26' east. The wind blew from
the south a whole day, and then veering to the west and
northwest, brought on some fair weather,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
61
They continued their course to the eastward without in-
terruption, till the nineteenth, when the fore-topmast of the
Resolution went by the board, and carried the main-top-
gallant-mast with it; this occasioned some delay in refitting.
The wind continued westerly, and though it blew very fresh,
the weather was notwithstanding clear. In the morning of
the 24th, we discovered Van Diemen's Land bearing to-
wards the northwest. Our latitude being at noon 43° 47'
south; longitude 137° east. Captain Cook gave the name of
the Eddystone to a rock that lies about a league to the east-
ward of Swilly Isle or Rock, on account of its striking re-
semblance to Eddystone light-house. These two rocks may,
even in the night, be seen at a considerable distance, and are
the summits of a ledge of rocks under water. On the north-
east side of Storm Bay, are some creeks that seem tolerably
sheltered; and if this coast was carefully examined, several
good harbours would most probably be found.
About noon on the 26th a breeze sprung up which deter-
mined us to anchor in Adventure Bay, for the purpose of
watering, &c. which was found could not be wanted till our
arrival at New Zealand. The ships therefore stood in for
the Bay, and anchored in a sandy bottom, in twelve fathoms
water, at the distance from shore of about three quarters of
a mile.
After anchoring, captains Cook and Clerke went ashore in
the boats, to look out for the most commodious place for
procuring the necessary supplies. Wood and water they
found could be procured easily, but grass, which was prin-
cipally needed, was coarse and bad. The next morning cap-
tain Cook detached two parties under the conduct of lieu-
tenant King, to the east side of the bay to cut wood and
grass, some marines attending them as a guard, though none
of the natives had yet appeared. He also sent the launch to
provide water for the ships, and afterwards paid a visit to
the parties thus employed.
The seine was drawn in the evening, and at one haul, a
great quantity of fish was taken: after which, all hands re-
turned on board, to be ready for sailing, when the wind
should permit.
As this however did not happen, the next day was em-
ployed for cutting down spars for the ships. We were sur-
prized in the afternoon with a visit from some of the natives:
eight men and a boy approached us from the woods, with
the greatest confidence, none of them having weapons, but
one, who held in his hand a stick, about two feet long, point-
a

62
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
ed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no orna.
ments, unless we consider as such some large punctures or
ridges on different parts of their bodies, some in straight,
and some in curved lines. They were of the common sta-
ture, but slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair,
which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea; but
they had not remarkably thick lips nor flat noses; on the con-
trary, their features were far from being disagreeable. They
had pretty good eyes, and their teeth were tolerably even,
but very dirty. Most of them had their hair and beards
smeared with a red ointment; with which some also had their
faces painted.
Every present made to them they received without any
appearance of satisfaction. When some bread was given, as
soon as they understood it was to be eaten, they either re-
turned it, or threw it away, without even tasting it. They
also refused some fish, both raw and dressed; but on giving
some birds to them, their behaviour indicated a fondness for
such food. Captain Cook had brought two pigs ashore, with
a view to leave them in the woods; but the instant these
came within reach of the savages, they seized them, as a dog
would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them
off immediately; with no other intention, as could be per-
ceived, but to kill them. Being desirous of knowing the use
of the stick before mentioned, captain Cook, by signs, pre-
vailed upon one of them to show him. This
savage
piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the distance of
about 20 yards. On repeated trials, however, he was always
wide from his object. Omai, to show them the superiority of
our weapons, then fired his musket at it; which alarmed
them so much, that they fled into the woods with great pre-
cipitation.
Immediately after they had retired, captain Cook ordered
the two pigs, one a male and the other a female, to be car-
ried about a mile within the woods, and he himself saw them
left there, taking care that none of the natives should observe
what was passing. He also intended to have left a young bull
and a cow, besides some goats and sheep; but he soon re-
linquished that design, being of opinion that the natives
would destroy them; which he supposed would be the fate of
the pigs, if they should chance to find them out.
swine soon become wild, and are fond of being in the woods,
it is probable that they were preserved. The other cattle
could not have remained long concealed from the savages, as
they must have been put into an open place.
set
up a
a
But as

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
63
We were prevented from sailing on the 29th by a dead
calm, which continued the whole day. Captain Cook, there-
fore, sent parties on shore to cut wood and grass, as usual;
and he accompanied the wooding party himself. Soon after
our landing, about twenty of them joined us, one of whom
was distinguished not only by his deformity, but by the drol-
lery of his gesticulations, and the seeming humour of his
speeches, which, however, we could not understand. Those
whom we now saw differed in some respects, particularly in
the texture of the hair, from the natives of the more north-
erly parts of this country, whom captain Cook met with in
his first voyage. Some of our present company had a slip of
the kangooroo skin round their ancles; and others wore round
their necks some small cord, made of fur. They seem not to
value iron, but were apparently pleased with the medals and
beads that were given them. They did not even appear to
know the use of fish-hooks, though it is more than probable,
that they were acquainted with some method of catching fish.
Their habitations were little sheds or hovels built of sticks,
and covered with bark. Evident signs appeared of their
sometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees,
which had been hollowed out by fire; and the marks of fire
near their habitations, and near every heap of shells, were in-
dubitable proofs that they did not eat their food raw.
Captain Cook on leaving the wooding party, went to the
grass cutters, and having seen the boats loaded with hay,
returned on board. He had just quitted the shore, when seve-
ral women and children appeared, and were introduced to
lieutenant King, by the men who accompanied them. These
females wore a kangooroo skin (in the shape as it came from
the animal) tied over their shoulders, and round the waist.
Its only use seemed to be, to support their children when
carried on their backs; for it did not cover those parts which
modesty directs us to conceal; their bodies were black, and
marked like those of the men with scars. Some of them had
their hair completely shaved; others on the one side only;
while the rest of them had all the upper part of the head
shorn close, having a circle of hair all round, something like
the tonsure of the Roman ecclesiastics. Many of the chil-
dren had fine features, and were thought pretty, but the
women in general, were far from handsome. Some of our gen-
tlemen paid their addresses to them, accompanied with large
presents, which were rejected with great disdain; whether
from a sense of virtue, or fear of displeasing their men, is
not certain. That the husbands did not relish this gallantry,

64
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
that may
was clear, from their behaviour on the occasion. Captain
Cook's reflections on this circumstance we shall give in his
own words. This conduct of Europeans among savages, to
their women, is highly blameable; as it creates a jealousy in
their
men,
be attended with consequences, fatal to
the success of the common enterprize, and to the whole
body of the adventurers, without advancing the private pur-
pose of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of
his wishes. I believe it has been generally found among un-
civilized people, that where the women are easy
of
access,
the men are the first to offer them to strangers; and that
where that is not the case, neither the allurements of pre-
sents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have
the desired effect. This observation, I am sure will hold
good, through all the parts of the south sea where I have
been.
During our continuance in Van Diemen's Land, we had
either light airs from the east, or calms: we therefore lost
little or no time by touching on this coast.
This land was
discovered in November 1642, by Tasman, who gave it the
name of Van Diemen’s Land. Captain Furneaux touched at
it in March 1773. It is the southern point of New-Holland,
which is by far the largest island in the known world, and
almost deserves the name of a continent. The land is diver-
sified with hills and vallies, and well wooded.
well wooded. The only
wind to which Adventure Bay is exposed, is the northeast:
and, upon the whole, this may be considered as a very safe
road. Its latitude is 43° 21' 20" south, and its longitude 147°
29' east.
Mr. Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution, employed him-
self in examining the country during our continuance in
Adventure Bay. His remarks on the inhabitants and their
language, and his account of the natural productions of the
country, are to the following purport:
There is a beautiful sandy beach, about two miles long,
at the bottom of Adventure Bay, formed to all appearance
by the particles which the sea washes from a fine white
sandy stone. This beach is very well adapted for hauling a
seine. Behind it is a plain, with a brackish lake, out of which
we caught, by angling, some bream and trout. The
The parts
adjoining the bay are mostly hilly, and are an entire forest
of tall trees, rendered almost impassable by brakes of fern,
shrubs, &c. The soil on the flat land, and on the lower part
of the hills, is sandy, or consists of a yellowish earth, and in
some parts of a reddish clay: but farther up the hills, it is of
a
a
а.


OF
mich
UNIC
Plate 2.
F.Shallus Engraver 90 Jouth Third s Philad:
A MAN and WOMAN OF VAN DIEMENS LAND.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
65
a
a gray tough cast. This country, upon the whole, bears ma-
ny marks of being very dry, and the heat appears to be
great. No mineral bodies, nor stones of any other kind than
the white sandy-stone, were observed by us; nor could we
find any vegetables that afforded subsistence for men. The
forest trees are all of one kind, and generally quite straight:
they bear clusters of small white flowers. The principal plants
we observed were wood-sorrel, milk-wort, cudweed, bell-
flower, gladiolus, samphire, and several kinds of fern. The
only quadruped we saw distinctly was a species of opossum,
about twice the size of a large rat. The kangooroo, found
farther northward in New-Holland, may also be supposed to
inhabit here, as some of the inhabitants had pieces of the
skin of that animal,
The principal sorts of birds in the woods are brown hawks
or eagles, crows, large pigeons, yellowish paroquets, and a
species which we called motacilla cyanea, from the beautiful
,
azure colour of its head and neck. On the shore were seve-
ral gulls, black oyster catchers, or sea-pies, and plovers of a
stone-colour.
We observed in the wood, some blackish snakes that were
pretty large, and we killed a lizard which was about fifteen
inches long and six round, very beautifully clouded with yel-
low and black.
Among a variety of fish we caught some large rays,
nurses, leather jackets, bream, soles, flounders, gurnards, and
elephant-fish; besides a sort which we did not recollect to
have seen before, and which partakes of the nature both of a
round and a flat fish. Upon the rocks are muscles and other
shell-fish; and upon the beach we found some pretty Medu-
sa's heads. The most troublesome insects we met with,
were the musquitoes, and a large black ant, whose bite in-
flicts extreme pain.
The inhabitants seemed mild and cheerful, with little of
that wild appearance that savages in general have. They are
almost totally devoid of personal activity or genius, and are
nearly upon a par with the wretched natives of Terra del
Fuego. They display, however, some contrivance in their
method of cutting their arms and bodies in lines of different
directions, raised
above the surface of the skin. Their indif-
ference for our presents, their general inattention, and want
of curiosity, were very remarkable, and testified no acuteness
of understanding. Their complexion is a dull black, which
they sometimes heighten by smutting their bodies, as we
supposed, from their leaving a mark behind on any clean
VOL. I.
I

66
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
substance. Their hair is perfectly woolly, and is clotted with
grease and red ochre, like that of the Hottentots. Their
noses are broad and full, and the lower part of the face
pro-
jects considerably. Their eyes are of a moderate size, and
though they are not very quick or piercing, they give the
countenance a frank, cheerful, and pleasing cast. Their teeth
are not very white, nor well et, and their mouths are too
wide: they wear their beards long, and clotted with paint.
They are, upon the whole, well proportioned, though their
belly is rather protuberant. Their favourite attitude is to
stand with one side forward, and one hand grasping across
the back the opposite arm, which, on this occasion, hangs
down by the side that projects.
Near the shore in the bay, we observed some wretched
constructions of sticks covered with bark; but these seemed
to have been only temporary, and they had converted many
of their largest trees into more comfortable and commodious
habitations. The trunks of these were hollowed out to the
height of six or seven feet, by means of a fire. That they
sometimes dwell in them was manifest, from their hearths
in the middle made of clay, round which four or five per-
sons might sit. These places of shelter are rendered durable,
by their leaving one side of the tree sound, so that it con-
tinues growing with great luxuriance.
That the natives of Van Diemen's Land originate from the
same stock with those who inhabit the northern parts of
New-Holland, seems evident. Though they differ in many
respects, their dissimilarity may be reasonably accounted for,
from the united considerations of distance of place, length of
time, total separation, and diversity of climate.
As the inhabitants of New Holland seem all to have sprung
from one common source, there is nothing very peculiar in
them; for they greatly resemble the savages of the islands
of Tanna and Manicola. There is even some reason for sup-
posing, that they may originally have come from the same
place with all the natives of the Pacific Ocean: for, of about
ten words which we found means to get from them, that
which is used to express cold, is very similar to that
of New Zealand and Otaheite; the first being mallareede,
the second makka'reede, and the third ma'reede. The remain-
der of our scanty vocabulary of Van Diemen's Land is as
follows: viz.
Quadne,
Eve'rai,
a woman.
the eye.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIE OCEAN.
67
Muidje, the nose.
Ka'my, the teeth, mouth, or tongue.
Lae'renne, a small bird, living in the woods here.
Koy'gee, the ear.
Teegera, to eat.
No'onga, elevated scars on the body.
Toga'rago, I will go, or I must be
,
gone.
It will probably be found, upon a diligent inquiry, and an
accurate comparison drawn from the affinity of languages,
that all the people from New-Holland, eastward to Easter
Island, are of the same extraction.
On the 30th of January, in the morning, we weighed
anchor with a light westerly breeze, from Adventure Bay.
Soon after we had put to sea, the wind became southerly,
and produced a perfect storm; but veering in the evening to
the east and northeast, its fury began to abate. This wind
was attended with an almost intolerable heat, which, how-
ever, was of so short a continuance, that some of our com-
pany did not perceive it.
In the night, between the 6th and 7th of February, one of
the Discovery's marines fell overboard and was drowned.
On the 10th, in the afternoon, we descried the coast of New-
Zealand, at the distance of eight or nine leagues. We then
steered for Cape Farewell, and afterwards for Stephen's
Island; and, in the morning of the 12th, anchored in Ship
Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound. We soon after landed many
empty water casks, and cleared a place for two observatories.
In the mean time several canoes came along side of our
ships; but very few of those who were in them would ven-
ture on board. This shyness appeared the more extraordi-
nary, as captain Cook was well known to all of them; and as
one man in particular among the present group, had been
treated by him with distinguished kindness during a former
voyage. This man, however, could not by any means be pre-
vailed on to come aboard. We could only account for this
reserve by supposing, that they were apprehensive of our
revenging the death of captain Furneaux's people who had
been killed here. But, upon captain Cook assuring them of
the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not
molest them on that account, they soon laid aside all appear-
ance of suspicion and distrust. The next day we pitched two
tents, and erected the observatories, in which Messrs. King
and Bailey immediately commenced their astronomical ope-
rations. Two of our men were employed in brewing spruce

68
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
;
ing
a
beer; while others filled the water casks, collected grass for
the cattle, and cut wood. Those who remained on board
were occupied in repairing the rigging, and performing the
necessary duty of the ships. A guard of marines was ap-
pointed for the protection of the different parties on shore,
and arms were given to all the workmen, to repel all attacks
from the natives, if they had been inclined to molest us; but
this did not appear to be the case.
During the course of this day, many families came from
various parts of the coast, and erected their huts close to our
encampment. The facility with which they build these tem-
porary habitations, is remarkable. They have been seen to
erect above twenty of them on a spot of ground, which was
covered with plants and shrubs not an hour before. Captain
Cook was present when a number of savages landed, and
built a village of this kind. They had no sooner leaped from
the canoes, than they tore up the shrubs and plants from the
ground they had fixed upon, or put up some part of the fram-
of a hut. While the men were thus employed, the women
took care of the canoes, secured the provisions and utensils,
and gathered dry sticks, to serve as materials for a fire. These
huts are sufficiently calculated for affording shelter from the
rain and wind. The same tribe or family, however large,
generally associate and build together; so that their towns and
villages are usually divided by palisades into separate dis-
tricts.
We received considerable advantage from the natives com-
ing to live with us; for, every day, some of them were oc-
cupied in catching fish, a good share of which we generally
procured by exchanges. Besides fish, we had other refresh-
ments in abundance. Scurvy-grass, celery, and portable soup,
were boiled every day with the wheat and pease; and we had
spruce beer for our drink. Such a regimen soon removed all
seeds of the scurvy from our people, if any of them had con-
tracted it. But indeed, on our arrival here, we had only two
invalids in both ships.
We were occasionally visited by other natives besides those
who lived close to us. Their articles of traffic were fish, cu-
riosities, and women; the two first of which were speedily
disposed of, but the latter did not come to a good market, as
our crew had conceived a dislike to them. Captain Cook ob-
serves upon this occasion, that he connived at a connexion
with women, because he could not prevent it; but that he
never encouraged it, because he dreaded its consequences.
Among our occasional visiters was a chief called Kahoora,


OF
lor
UNIL
PIPA:
The INSIDE of a HIPPAH, in NEW ZEELAND

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
69
terms.
who headed the party that cut off captain Furneaux's people.
He was far from being beloved by his countrymen, some of
whom even importuned captain Cook to kill him, at the same
time expressing their disapprobation of him in the severest
A striking proof of the divisions that prevail among
these people occurred to us; for the inhabitants of each vil-
lage, by turns, solicited our commodore to destroy the other.
Captain Cook, on the 15th, went in a boat to search for
grass, and visited the hippah, or fortified village, at the south-
,
west point of the island of Motuara. He observed no inha-
bitants at this village, though there were evident marks of its
having been lately occupied; the houses and palisades being
in a state of good repair. Not the smallest vestige remained
of the English garden-seeds which had been planted at this
hippah in 1773, during captain Cook's second voyage. They
had probably been all rooted out to make room for buildings;
for, at the other gardens then planted, we found radishes,
onions, leeks, cabbages, purslain, potatoes, &c. Though the
natives of New Zealand are fond of the last mentioned root,
they had not planted a single one, much less any of the other
articles we had introduced among them.
Early in the morning of the 16th, the captains Cook and
Clerke, and several of the officers and sailors, accompanied by
Omai and two New Zealanders, set out, in five boats, to col-
lect fodder for the cattle. Having proceeded about three
leagues up the Sound, they landed on the east side, where
they cut a sufficient quantity of grass to load the two launches.
On their return down the Sound, they paid a visit to Grass
Cove, the place where captain Furneaux's people had been
massacred. They here met with captain Cook's old friend
Pedro, who is mentioned by him in the history of his second
voyage. He, and another New Zealander, received them on
the beach, armed with a spear and patoo, though not without
manifest signs of fear. Their apprehensions, however, were
quickly dissipated by a few presents, which brought down to
the shore two or three others of the family.
During the continuance of our party at this place, the com-
modore, being desirous of inquiring into the particular cir-
cumstances relative to the massacre of our countrymen, fixed
upon Omai as an interpreter for that purpose, as his language
was a dialect of that of New Zealand. Pedro, and the other
natives who were present, none of whom had been concerned
in that unfortunate transaction, answered every question with
out reserve. Their information imported, that while our
people were at dinner, some of the natives stole, or snatched

70
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIG OCEAN.
from them, some fish and bread, for which offence they re-
ceived some blows: a quarrel immediately ensued, and two
of the savages were shot dead, by the only two muskets that
were fired; for, before a third was discharged, the natives
rushed furiously upon our people, and being superior in num-
ber destroyed them all. Pedro and his companions also
pointed out the very spot where the fracas happened, and
the place where the boat lay, in which a black servant of
cap-
tain Furneaux had been left to take care of it.
According to another account, this negro was the occasion
of the quarrel; for, one of the natives stealing something out
of the boat, the black gave him a violent blow with a stick.
His countrymen hearing his cries at some distance, imagined
he was killed, and immediately attacked our people, who, be-
fore they could reach the boat, or prepare themselves against
,
the unexpected assault, fell a sacrifice to the fury of the ex-
asperated savages.
It is probable, both these accounts were true; as it is natu-
ral to suppose, that while some of the natives were stealing
from the man who had been left in the boat; others of them
might be taking the same liberty with the property of our
people who were on shore. But all agree, that there was no
premeditated plan of bloodshed; and that if the thefts had
not been too hastily resented, no mischief would have hap-
pened.
With regard to the boat, some said, that it had been pulled
to pieces and burnt, while others asserted, that it had been
carried off by a party of strangers.
Our party continued at Grass Cove till the evening, and
then embarked to return to the ships. They had scarcely left
the shore, when the wind began to blow violently at north-
west, so that it was not without great difficulty that they could
reach the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till
the next morning, and it was very fortunate that they got on
board then, for soon afterwards a perfect storm arose. To-
wards the evening, however, the wind veering to the east,
brought on fair weather. On Tuesday the 18th, Pedro and
his whole family came to reside near us. The proper name
of this chief was Matahouah; but some of captain Cook's
people had given him the appellation of Pedro in a former
voyage. On the 20th we had another storm, of less dura-
tion than the former, but more violent; in consequence of
which, both our ships struck their yards and top-masts. These
tempests are frequent here; and the nearer the shore, the
more sensible are their effects,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
On Friday the 21st, a tribe or family of about thirty per-
sons came from the upper part of the sound to visit us. Their
chief was named Tomatongeauooranuc: he was about the
age
of forty-five, and had a frank, cheerful countenance; and,
indeed, the rest of his tribe were, upon the whole, the hand-
somest of all the New Zealanders that captain Cook had ever
seen. By this time upwards of two-thirds of the natives of
Queen Charlotte's Sound had settled near us, numbers of
whom daily resorted to the ships, and our encampment on
shore; but the latter was most frequented, during the time
when our people there were making seal blubber; for the sa-
vages were so fond of train oil, that they relished the very
dregs of the casks, and skimmings of the kettle; and consi-
dered the pure stinking oil as a most delightful feast.
When we had procured a competent supply of hay, wood,
and water, we struck our tents, and the next morning, which
was the 24th, weighed out of the Cove. But the wind not
being so fair as we could have wished, we were obliged to
cast anchor again near the Isle of Motuara. While we were
getting under sail, Tomatongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and
many others of the natives, came to take leave of us. These
two chiefs having requested captain Cook to present them
with some hogs and goats, he gave Tomatongeauooranuc two
pigs, a boar and a sow: and to Matahouah two goats, a male
and female, after they had promised not to destroy them.
As for the animals, which captain Furneaux had left here,
captain Cook was now told, that they were all dead; but he
was afterwards informed, by the two New Zealand youths
who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular chief, had in
,
his possession many cocks and hens, besides a sow.
Before we had been long at anchor near Motuara, several
canoes, filled with natives, came towards us, and we carried
on a brisk trade with them for the curiosities of this place.
In one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom Omai immedi-
ately pointed out to captain Cook, and solicited him to shoot
that chief: he also threatened to be himself his executioner,
if he should ever presume to pay us another visit. These
menaces of Omai had so little influence upon Kahoora, that
he returned to us the next morning, accompanied with his
whole family. Omai, having obtained captain Cook's permis-
sion to ask him to come on board, introduced him into the
cabin, saying, " There is Kahoora, dispatch him." But, fear-
ing perhaps that he should be called upon to put his former
threats in execution, he instantly retired. He soon, however,
returned; and perceiving that the chief was unhurt, he ear-

72
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
а
nestly remonstrated to captain Cook on the subject, saying,
that if a man killed another in England, he was hanged for it;
but that Kahoora had killed ten, and therefore justly deser-
ved death. These arguments, however plausible, had no
weight with our commodore, who desired Omai to ask the
New Zealand chief, why he had destroyed captain Furneaux's
people? Kahoora, confounded at this question, hung down
his head, folded his arms, and seemed in expectation of im.
mediate death, but, as soon as he was assured of safety, he
became cheerful. He appeared, however, unwilling to an-
swer the question which had been put to him, till after re-
peated promises that no violence should be offered to him.
He then ventured to inform us, that one of the natives having
brought a stone-hatchet for the purpose of traffic, the person
to whom it was offered took it, and refused either to return it,
or give any thing in exchange; upon which the owner of it
seized some bread by way of an equivalent; and this gave
rise to the quarrel that ensued. He also mentioned, that he
himself, during the disturbance, had a narrow escape; for
musket was levelled at him, which he found means to avoid
by skulking behind the boat; and another man, who happened
to stand close to him, was shot dead. Upon which Kahoora
attacked Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded the party,
who defended himself with his hanger, with which he
the chief a wound in the arm, till he was overpowered by supe-
riority of numbers. Mr. Burney, whom captain Furneaux dis-
patched next day with an armed party in search of his people
who were missing, had, upon discovering the melancholy
proofs of this catastrophe, fired several vollies among the na-
tives who were still on the spot, and were probably partaking
of the horrid banquet of human flesh. It was reasonable to
suppose that this firing was not ineffectual; but upon inquiry
it appeared, that not a single person had been killed, or even
hurt, by the shot which Mr. Burney's people had discharged.
Most of the natives we had met with, expected that cap-
tain Cook would take vengeance on Kahoora for his concern
in the massacre; and many of them not only wished it, but
testified their surprise at the captain's forbearance and mo-
deration. As the chief must have known this, it was a mat-
ter of astonishment that he so often put himself in the power
of our commodore. His two last visits, in particular, were
made under such circumstances, that he could not have flat-
tered himself with a prospect of escaping, had the captain
been inclined to detain him; and yet, when his first fears, on
being questioned, had subsided, so far was he from entertain-
gave

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
73
a
а
a
ing uneasy sensations, that, on seeing in the cabin a portrait
of a New Zealander, he desired that his own likeness might
be taken, and sat till Mr. Webber had finished his portrait,
without the smallest token of impatience. Captain Cook ad-
mired his courage, and was pleased with the confidence
which he reposed in him; for he placed his whole safety in
the uniform declarations of the captain, that he had always
been a friend to the natives, and would continue in the same
sentiments till they gave him reason to behave otherwise:
that he should think no more of their barbarous treatment of
our countrymen, as that transaction had happened long ago;
but that, if they should ever venture to make a second attempt
of that kind, they might rest assured of meeting with an ad-
equate punishment.
Before our arrival in New Zealand, Omai had expressed
a desire of taking one of the natives with him to his own
country. He soon had an opportunity of gratifying his incli-
nation, for a youth named Taweiharooa, the only son of a
deceased chief, offered to accompany him, and took up his re-
sidence on board. Captain Cook caused it to be made known
to him and all his friends, that if the youth departed with
us, he would never return. This declaration, however, had
no effect. The day before we quitted the Cove, Tiratoutou,
his mother, came to receive her last present from Omai;
and the same evening she and her son parted, with all the
marks of the tenderest affection. But she said she would
weep no more, and faithfully kept her word; for the next
morning when she returned to take her last farewell of Ta-
weiharooa she was quite cheerful all the time she remained
on board, and departed with great unconcern. A boy of
about ten years of age accompanied Taweiharooa as a ser-
vat; his name was Kokoa. He was presented to captain Cook
by his own father, who parted with him with such indiffer-
ence, as to strip him, and leave him entirely naked. The
captain having in vain endeavoured to convince these people
of the great improbability of these youths ever returning
home, at length consented to their going.
The inhabitants of New Zealand seem to live under con-
tinual apprehensions of being destroyed by each other; most
of their tribes having, as they think, sustained injuries from
some other tribe, which they are ever eager to revenge:
and
it is not improbable, that the desire of a good meal is fre-
quently a great incitement. They generally steal upon the
adverse party in the night, and if they chance to find them
unguarded, which is seldom the case, they kill every one
VOL. I.
K

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
without distinction, without sparing even the women and
children: when they have completed the inhuman massacre,
they either gorge themselves on the spot, or carry off as
many dead bodies as they can, and feast on them at home,
with the most horrid acts of brutality. If they are discovered
before they have time to execute their sanguinary purpose,
they usually steal off again, and sometimes they are pursued
and attacked by the adverse party, in their turn. They never
give quarter, or take prisoners, so that the vanquished must
trust to flight alone for safety. From this state of perpetual
hostility, and this destructive mode of carrying it on, a New-
Zealander derives such habitual vigilance and circumspec-
tion, that he is scarce ever off his guard: and, indeed, these
people have the most powerful motives to be vigilant, as the
preservation of both soul and body depends on it: for it is a
part of their creed, that the soul of the man whose flesh is
devoured by his enemies, is condemned to an incessant fire;
while the soul of him whose body has been rescued from
those that slew him, as well as the souls of those who die a
natural death, ascend to the mansions of the gods. Captain
Cook having asked them, whether they eat the flesh of such
friends as had lost their lives in war, but whose bodies had
been prevented from falling into the enemy's hands, they
answered in the negative, and expressed their abhorrence of
the idea.
Their ordinary method of disposing of their dead, is to
commit their bodies to the earth; but when they have more
of their slain enemies than they can conveniently eat, they
throw them into the sea. There are no morais, or other
places of public worship among them; but they have priests,
who pray to the gods for the success of their temporal af-
fairs. The principles of their religion, of which we know but
little, are strongly instilled into them from their infancy. We
observed a remarkable instance of this in a youth, who ab-
stained from eating during the greatest part of the day,
merely on account of his hair being cut, though every me-
thod was practised that could induce him to change his re-
solution. He said that the eatooa, or deity, would kill him
if he eat any thing on that day. Towards the evening, how-
ever, his religious scruples gave way to the importunate cra-
vings of appetite, and he eat, though sparingly.
Notwithstanding the divided state in which these people
live, travelling strangers, whose designs are honourable, are
well received and entertained; but it is expected that they
will remain no longer than their business requires. It is thus

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
75
2
many fabu-
that a trade for green tale, which they call poenammoo, is
carried on. They informed us, that none of this stone is to
be found, except at a place which bears its name, near the
head of Queen Charlotte's Sound. We were told
lous and improbable stories concerning this stone, one of
which is, that it is originally a fish, which they strike with a
gig in the water, and having tied a rope to it, drag it to the
shore, to which they fasten it, and it afterwards hardens into
a stone. As it is fished out of a large lake, it is probable that
it
may be brought from the mountains, and deposited in the
water, by means of the torrents. This lake is called by the
inhabitants Tavai Poenammoo, or the water of green talc.
The New Zealanders have adopted polygamy among them; ;
and it is common for one man to have two or three wives,
The women are ripe for marriage at an early age; and those
who are unmarried, find difficulty in procuring subsistence.
These people seem perfectly contented with the small de-
gree of knowledge they possess, for they make no attempts
to improve it. They are not remarkably curious, nor do new
objects strike them with much surprise, for they scarce fix
their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, being a great
favourite with them, would sometimes attract a circle about
him; but they listened to his speeches with very little eager-
ness. On our inquiring of Taweiharooa, how many ships,
resembling ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's
Sound, or in its neighbourhood, he gave us an account of
one entirely unknown to us. This vessel, he said, had put in-
to a harbour on the northwest coast of Teerawitte, a few
years before captain Cook arrived in the sound in the En-
deavour. He further informed us, that the captain of her,
during his continuance here, had cohabited with a female of
the country, who had born him a son that was still living.
He also mentioned, that this ship first introduced the vene..
real disease among the natives of New Zealand. This dread-
ful disorder is now but too common among them. The
only method they put in practice as a remedy, is to give the
patient the use of a kind of hot bath, produced by the steam
of certain green plants placed over hot stones.
Taweiharooa's intelligence induced us to believe, that a ship
had really been at Teerawitte previous to captain Cook's ar-
rival in the Endeavour, as it corresponded with what the
captain had formerly heard; for, towards the latter end of
1774, some of the natives informed him of a ship's having
put into a port on the coast of Teerawitte.

76
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
We had another piece of information from Taweiharooa,
importing that there are here snakes and lizards of an enor-
mous size. The latter were described by him as being eight
feet long, and equal to a man's body in circumference. He
said that they burrow in the ground; that they sometimes
seize and devour men, and are killed by making fires at the
mouths of their holes. We could not misunderstand him with
respect to the animal; for in order to show us what he meant,
he drew, with his own hand, very good representations of a
lizard and snake on a piece of paper.
The longitude of Ship Cove, by lunar observations, is 1740
25' 15'' east; its latitude 41° 6' south,
Though much has been said concerning this country and
its inhabitants, in the accounts of captain Cook's two former
voyages, yet the remarks of Mr. Anderson, being the result
of accurate observations, must not be considered as altogether
superfluous. They are as follow:
About Queen Charlotte's Sound, the land is uncommonly
mountainous, rising immediately from the sea into large hills.
At remote distances are vallies, terminating each towards the
sea in a small cove, with a pebbly or sandy beach, behind
which are flat places, where the natives usually build their
huts. This situation is the more convenient, as a brook of
fine water runs through every cove, and empties itself into
the sea.
a
The bases of these mountains towards the shore, are con-
stituted of a brittle yellowish sandy stone, which acquires a
bluish cast where it is laved by the sea. At some places it
runs in horizontal, and, at others, in oblique strata. The
mould or soil by which it is covered resembles marle, and is,
in general, a foot or two in thickness.
The luxuriant growth of the productions here, sufficiently
indicates the quality of the soil. The hills, except a few to-
wards the sea, are one continued forest of lofty trees, flour-
ishing with such uncommon vigour, as to afford an august
prospect to the admirers of the sublime and beautiful works
of nature.
This extraordinary strength in vegetation is, doubtless,
greatly assisted by the agreeable temperature of the climate;
for, at this time, though answering to our month of August,
the weather was not so warm as to be disagreeable; nor did
it raise the thermometer higher than 66º. The winter also
seems equally mild with respect to cold; for in the month
which corresponds to our December, the mercury was never
lower than 48%, the trees at the same time retaining their

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
verdure, as if in the height of summer. It is supposed their
foliage remains, till pushed off in spring by the succeeding
leaves.
Though the weather is generally good, it is sometimes
windy, with heavy rain; which, however, is never excessive,
and does not last above a day. In short, this would be one
of the finest countries on earth, were it not so extremely hilly;
which, supposing the woods to be cleared away, would leave
it less proper for pasturage than flat land; and infinitely less
so for cultivation, which could never be effected here by the
plough.
The large trees on the hills are principally of two sorts.
One of them, of the size of our largest firs, grows nearly after
their manner. This supplied the place of spruce in making
.
beer; which we did, with a decoction of its leaves fermented
with sugar or treacle; and this liquor was acknowledged to
be little inferior to American spruce-beer. The other sort of
tree is like a maple; and often grows very large, but is fit only
for fuel; the wood of that, and of the preceding, being too
heavy for masts, or yards, &c.
A great variety of trees grow on the flats behind the
beaches: two of these bear a kind of plum, of the size of
prunes;
the one, which is yellow, is called karraca, and the
other, which is black, called maitao; but neither of them
had a pleasant taste, though eaten both by our people and
the natives.
On the eminences which jut out into the sea, grows a spe-
cies of philadelphus, and a tree bearing flowers almost like
myrtle. We used the leaves of the philadelphus as tea, and
found them an excellent substitute for the oriental sort.
A kind of wild celery, which grows plentifully in almost
every cove, may be reckoned among the plants that were
useful to us; and another that we used to call scurvy-grass.
Both sorts were boiled daily with wheat ground in a mill,
for the people's breakfast, and with their pease-soup for din-
ner. Sometimes also they were used as sallad, or dressed as
greens. In all which ways they are excellent; and, together
with the fish, with which we were amply supplied, they
formed a most desirable refreshment.
The known kinds of plants to be found here are bind-weed,
night-shade, nettles, a shrubby speedwell, sow-thistles, vir-
gin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, crane’s-bill,
cud-weed, rushes, bulrushes, flax, all-heal, American night-
shade, knot-grass, brambles, eye-bright, and groundsel; but
the species of each are different from any we have in Europe.

78
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
There are a great number of other plants, but one in par-
ticular deserves to be noticed here, as the garments of the
natives are made from it. A fine silky flax is produced from
it, superior in appearance to any thing we have in this coun-
try, and perhaps as strong. It grows in all places near the sea,
and sometimes a considerable way up the hills, in bunches or
tufts, bearing yellowish flowers on a long stalk.
It is remarkable, that the greatest part of the trees and
plants were of the berry-bearing kind; of which, and other
seeds, Mr. Anderson brought away about thirty different
sorts.
a
a
The birds, of which there is a tolerable good stock, are
almost entirely peculiar to the place. It would be difficult
and fatiguing to follow them, on account of the quantity of
underwood, and the climbing plants; yet any person, by con-
tinuing in one place, may shoot as many in a day as would
serve seven or eight persons. The principal kinds are large
brown parrots, with gray heads, green parroquets, large
wood-pigeons, and two sorts of cuckoos. A gross-beak, about
the size of a thrush, is frequent; as is also a small green bird,
which is almost the only musical one to be found here; but his
melody is so sweet, and his notes so varied, that any one
would imagine himself surrounded by a hundred different sorts
of birds, when the little warbler is exerting himself. From
this circumstance it was named the mocking-bird. There
are also three or four sorts of smaller birds, and among the
rocks are found black sea-pies with red bills, and crested
shags of a leaden colour. About the shore there are a few
sea-gulls, some blue herons, wild ducks, plovers, and some
sand-larks. A snipe was shot here, which differs but little
from that of Europe.
Most of the fish we caught by the seine were elephant-fish,
mullets, soles, and flounders; but the natives supplied us with
a sort of sea-bream, large conger-eels, and a fish of five or
six pounds weight, called a mogge by the natives. With a
hook and line we caught a blackish fish, called cole-fish by
the seamen, but differing greatly from that of the same name
in Europe. We also got a sort of small salmon, skate, gur-
nards, and nurses. The natives sometimes furnished us with
hake, paracutas, parrot-fish, a sort of mackarel, and leather-
jackets; besides another, which is extremely scarce, of the
figure of a dolphin, a black colour, and strong bony jaws.
These, in general, are excellent to eat; but the small salmon,
cole-fish, and mogge, are superior to the others. Great quan-
tities of excellent muscles inhabit among the rocks; one sort

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
79
of which exceeds a foot in length. Many cockles are found
buried in the sand of the small beaches; and, in some places,
oysters, which though very small, have an excellent flavour.
There are also periwinkles, limpets, wilks, sea-eggs, star-fish,
and some beautiful sea-ears, many of which are peculiar to
the place. The natives also furnished us with some excellent
cray-fish.
Insects here are not very numerous; we saw some butter-
flies, two sorts of dragon flies, some small grasshoppers, se-
veral sorts of spiders, some black ants, and scorpion-flies in-
numerable, with whose chirping the woods resounded. The
sand-fly, which is the only noxious one, is very numerous
here, and is almost as disagreeable as the musquitoe. The
only reptiles we saw here, were two or three sorts of inoffen-
sive lizards.
In this extensive land, it is remarkable that there should
not even be the traces of any quadruped, except a few rats,
and a kind of fox-dog, which is kept by the natives as a do-
mestic animal.
They have not any mineral deserving notice, but a green
jasper or serpent-stone, of which the tools and ornaments of
the inhabitants are made. This is held in high estimation
among them; and they entertain some superstitious notions
about the mode of its generation, which we could not com-
prehend: they say it is taken from a large river far to the
southward; it is disposed in the earth in detached pieces like
flints, and, like them, the edges are covered with a whitish
crust.
The natives, in general are not so well formed, especially
about the limbs, as the Europeans, nor do they exceed them
in stature. Their sitting so much on their hams, and being
deprived, by the mountainous disposition of the country, of
using that kind of exercise which would render the body
straight and well proportioned, is probably the occasion of the
want of due proportion. Many of them, indeed, are perfectly
formed, and some are very large boned and muscular: but
very few among them were corpulent.
Their features are various, some resembling Europeans,
and their colour is of different casts, from a deepish black to
an olive or yellowish tinge. In general, however, their faces
are round, their lips rather full, and their noses, (though not
flat) large towards the point. An acquiline nose was not to
be seen among them: their eyes are large, and their teeth are
commonly broad, white, and regular. The hair, in general,
is black, strong and straight; it is commonly cut short on the

80
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
hinder part; and the rest tied on the crown of the head. Some,
indeed, have brown hair, and others a sort that is naturally
disposed to curl. The countenance of the
young
is generally
free and open; but, in many of the men, it has a serious or
sullen cast. The men are larger than the women; and the
latter are not distinguished by peculiar graces, either of form
or features.
Both sexes are clothed alike; they have a garment made
of the silky flax already mentioned, about five feet in length,
and four in breadth. This appears to be their principal ma-
mufacture, which is performed by knotting. Two corners of
this garment pass over the shoulders, and they fasten it on
the breast with that which covers the body: it is again fas-
tened about the belly with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes
they cover it with dog-skin or large feathers. Many of them
wear coats over this garment, extending from the shoulders
to the heels. The most common covering, however, is a
quantity of the sedgy plant above-mentioned, badly manufac-
tured, fastened to a string, and thrown over the shoulders,
whence it falls down on all sides to the middle of the thighs.
When they sat down in this habit, they could hardly be dis-
tinguished from large gray stones, if their black heads did
not project beyond their coverings.
They adorn their heads with feathers, combs of bone or
wood, with pearl shell, and the inner skin of leaves. Both
men and women have their ears slit, in which are hung beads,
pieces of jasper, or bits of cloth. Some have the sceptum of
the nose bored in its lower part, but we never saw any or-
nament wore in that part; though a twig was passed through
it by one of them, to show that it was occasionally used for
that purpose.
Many are stained in the face with curious figures, of a
black or dark blue colour; but it is not certain whether this
is intended to be ornamental, or as a mark of particular dis-
tinction: the women are marked only on their lips and chins;
and both sexes besmear their heads and faces with a greasy
reddish paint. The women also wear necklaces of shark's
teeth, or bunches of long beads; and a few of them have
small triangular aprons, adorned with feathers or pieces of
pearl shells, fastened about the waist with a double or treble
set of cords.
They live in the small coves already mentioned, sometimes
in single families, and sometimes in companies of perhaps
forty or fifty. Their huts, which are in general most mise-
rable lodging places, are built contiguous to each other. The

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
81
best we saw was built in the manner of one of our country
barns, and was about six feet in height, fifteen in breadth,
and thirty-three in length. The inside was strong and regu-
lar, well fastened by means of withes, &c. and painted red
and black. At one end it had a hole serving as a door to
creep out at, and another considerably smaller, seemingly for
the purpose of letting out the smoke. This, however ought
to be considered as one of their palaces, for many of their
huts are not of half the size, and seldom are more than four
feet in height.
They have no other furniture than a few small bags or
baskets, in which they deposit their fishing-hooks and other
trifles. They sit down in the middle round a small fire, and
probably sleep in the same situation, without any other cover-
ing than what they have worn in the day.
Fishing is their principal support, in which they use differ-
ent kinds of nets, or wooden fish-hooks pointed with bone;
but made in so extraordinary a manner, that it appears asto-
nishing how they can answer such a purpose.
Their boats consist of planks raised upon each other, and
fastened with strong withes. Many of them are fifty feet
long. Sometimes they fasten two together with rafters, which
they call a double canoe: they frequently carry upwards of
thirty men, and have a large head, ingeniously carved and
painted, which seems intended to represent a man enraged.
Their paddles are narrow, pointed, and about five feet long.
Their sail, which is very little used, is a mat formed into a
triangular shape.
They dress their fish by roasting, or rather baking them,
being entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. It is thus they
also dress the root of the large fern-tree, in a hole prepared
for that
purpose; when dressed, they split it, and find a gela-
tinous substance within, somewhat like sago powder. The
smaller fern-root seems to be their substitute for bread, be-
ing dried and carried about with them, together with
great
quantities of dried fish, when they go far from their habita-
tions.
When the weather will not suffer them to go to sea, mus-
cles and sea-ears supply the place of other fish. Sometimes,
but not often, they kill a few penguins, rails, and shags, which
enable them to vary their diet. Considerable numbers of their
dogs are also bred for food; but they depend principally on
the sea for their subsistence, by which they are most bounti,
fully supplied.
VOL. I.
L

82
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
They are as filthy in their feeding as in their persons, which
often emit a very offensive effluvia, from the quantity of
grease about them, and from their never washing their clothes:
their heads are plentifully stocked with vermin, which they
sometimes eat. Large quantities of sting train oil, and blub-
ber of seals, they would eagerly devour. When on board the
ships, they not only emptied the lamps, but actually swallow-
ed the cotton with equal voracity. Though the inhabitants of
Van Diemen's Land would not even taste our bread, these
people devoured it with the greatest eagerness, even when it
was rotten and mouldy.
In point of ingenuity, they are not behind any uncivilized
nation under similar circumstances: for, without the assis-
tance of metal tools, they make every thing by which they
procure their subsistence, clothing, and warlike weapons,
with neatness, strength, and convenience. Their principal
mechanical tool is formed in the manner of an adze, and is
made of the serpent-stone or jasper; their chissel and gouge
are furnished from the same material, though they are some-
times composed of black solid stone. Carving, however, is
their masterpiece, which appears upon the most trifling things:
the ornaments on the heads of their canoes, not only display
much design, but execution. Their cordage for fishing lines
is not inferior to that of this country, and their nets are equal-
ly good. A shell, a bit of flint, or jasper, is their substitute
for a knife; and a shark's tooth, fixed in the end of a piece of
wood, is their auger. They have a saw made of some jagged
fishes teeth, fixed on a piece of wood nicely carved: but this
is used for no other purpose than to cut up the bodies of those
whom they kill in battle.
Though no people are more ready to resent an injury, yet
they take every opportunity of being insolent, when they ap-
prehend there is no danger of punishment; whence it may
be
concluded that their eagerness to resent injuries, is rather
an effect of a furious disposition than genuine bravery. They
are naturally mistrustful and suspicious, for such as are
strangers never venture immediately to visit our ships, but
keep at a small distance in their boats, observing our motions,
and hesitating whether they should risk their safety with us.
They are to the last degree dishonest, and steal every thing
within their reach, if they suppose they can escape detection;
and, in trading they seem inclined to take every possible ad-
vantage; for they never trust an article out of their hands for
examination, and seem highly pleased if they have overreach-
ed
you in a bargain.
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
83
Such conduct indeed is not surprising, when it is consider-
ed that there appears to be but little subordination, and few,
if any, laws for the punishment of transgressors. No man's
authority extends beyond his own family; and when they join,
at any time, for mutual defence or safety, those among them
who are most eminent for valour and prudent conduct, are
directors.
Their public contentions are almost perpetual, for war is
their principal profession, as appears from their number of
weapons, and their dexterity in using them. Their arms are
spears, patoos, and halberts, and sometimes stones, the first
are from five to thirty feet long, made of hard wood and
pointed. The patoo is about eighteen inches long, of an
elliptical shape, with a handle made of wood, stone, &c. and
appears to be their principal dependence in battle. The hal-
bert is about five or six feet in length, tapering at one end
with a carved head, and broad or flat, with sharp edges at
the other.
Before the onset, they join in a war song, keeping the ex-
actest time; and, by degrees, work themselves into a kind of
frantic fury, accompanied with the most horrid distortions
of their tongues, eyes and mouths, in order to deter their
enemies. To this succeeds a circumstance that is most hor-
rid, cruel, and disgraceful to human nature, which is mang-
ling and cutting to pieces (even when not perfectly dead) the
podies of their enemies; and, after roasting them, devouring
their flesh with peculiar pleasure and satisfaction.
It might naturally be supposed, that those who could be
capable of such excess of cruelty, must be totally destitute of
every human feeling; and yet they lament the loss of their
friends in a manner the most tender and affectionate. Both
men and women, upon the death of their relations or friends,
bewail them with the most miserable cries; at the same time
cutting large gashes in their cheeks and foreheads, with
shells, or pieces of flint, till the blood flows copiously, and
mixes with their tears. They also carve a resemblance of an
human figure, and hang it about their necks, as a memorial
of those who were dear to them. They also perform the ce-
remony of lamenting and cutting for joy, at the return of a
friend who has been some time absent.
The practices of the fathers, whether good or bad, their
children are, at an early age, instructed in; so that you
find
a child of either sex, of the age of nine or ten years, able
to imitate the frightful motions and gestures of the men.
They also sing, and with some degree of melody, the tradi-

84
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tions and actions of their forefathers, with which they are
immoderately delighted, and pass much of their time in
these amusements, accompanied sometimes with a kind of
flute.
Their language is neither harsh nor disagreeable. What-
ever qualities are requisite to make a language musical, ob-
tain to a considerable degree in this, if we may judge from
the melody of their songs. It is not, indeed, so comprehen-
sive as our European languages, which owe their perfection-
to long and gradual improvement.

A VOYAGE
TO
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK II.
-
Behaviour of the two New Zealand Youths—The Island of Mangeea with
its inhabitants described - Visit and behaviour of Mourooa-Disposition
and manners of the Mangeeans-Wateeoo discovered-Mess. Gore,
Burney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on shore- Account of their re-
ception-Omai's meeting and astonishing adventure with his country-
men-Remarks concerning Wateeoo-Departure from it-Otakootaia
or Wenooa-ette visited-Singularity in the natives of Hervey's Island
-Submarine grotto at Palmerston's Island - Arrival at the Friendly
Isles-Amiable character of the natives—Propensity to thieving-Of
their persons-Transactions with them-Expedient to prevent their de-
predations-Opinions of the Islanders of a volcano-Entertainments ex-
hibited by the English and natives-Mode of shaving, &c. Visit of Pou-
labo, the king-Poulaho's inanimate Viceroy--Offering to deprecate
death-Mourniug ceremonies-Sentiments concerning the soul-
Future state-Their language, &c.
IN the morning of the 25th of February, we left the
Sound, and made sail through Cook's Straits. On the 27th,
Cape Palliser bearing west about seven leagues distant, we
had a fine gale, and steered towards the northeast. As soon
as we had lost sight of land, our two young New Zealanders
heartily repented of the adventurous step they had taken.
Though we endeavoured, as far as lay in our power to sooth
them, they wept, both in public and private; and gave vent
to their sorrows in a kind of song, which seemed to express
their praises of their country and people, from which they
were now, in all probability, to be for ever separated. They
continued in this state for several days, till at length, the

86
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
agitation of their minds began to subside, and their sea-
sickness, which had aggravated their grief, wore off. Their
lamentations then became less and less frequent; their native
country, their kindred and friends, were gradually forgotten,
and they appeared to be firmly attached to us.
On the 28th at noon, being in the latitude of 41° 17' south,
and in the longitude of 177° 17' east, we tacked about, and
stood to the southeast, with a gentle breeze at east-north-
east, which afterwards veered to northeast, in which point
the wind remained two days, sometimes blowing a fresh gale
with squalls and rains. On the 2d of March it shifted to
northwest, and afterwards to southwest, between which
point and the north it continued to blow, sometimes very
moderately, and at other times a strong gale. With this wind
we steered northeast by east and east, with all the sail we
could carry, till Tuesday the 11th, when it veered to north-
east and southeast; we then stood to the north and the south-
east, as the wind would permit, till the 16th, when having a
gale from the north, we stood to the east. The next day we
proceeded to the northeast; but, as the wind frequently
veered to east and east-north-east, we often made no better
than a northerly course. The hopes, however, of the wind
coming more southerly, or from the westward, a little with-
out the Tropic of Capricorn, encouraged the commodore to
keep this course. It was indeed necessary that we should run
all hazards, as our proceeding to the north this summer, in
prosecution of the principal object of the expedition, entirely
depended on our having a quick passage to Otaheite, or the
Society Isles.
We crossed the Tropic on the 27th, the wind, for a con-
siderable time before, having remained almost invariably
fixed at east-south-east. In all this run, we observed nothing
could induce us to suppose we had sailed near any land, ex-
cept occasionally a tropic bird. In the latitude of 34° 20',
longitude 1990, we passed the trunk of a tree, which appear-
ed much weather-beaten, and was covered with barnacles.
On the 29th, as we were standing to the northeast, the Dis-
covery made the signal of seeing land. We soon found it to
be a small island, and stood for it till the evening, when it
was at the distance of two or three leagues. The next morn-
ing, at day break, we bore up for the west side of the island,
and saw several people wading to the reef, where, as they
observed the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. But
others, who soon appeared, followed her course; and some of
them assembled in small bodies, making great shouts.
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
87
as
Upon our nearer approach to the shore, we saw many of
the natives running along the beach, and, by the assistance of
our glasses, could perceive that they were armed with long
spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs
of threatening, or, as some of us supposed, with invitations
to land. Most of them were naked, except having a kind of
girdle, which was brought up between their thighs; but some
of them wore about their shoulders pieces of cloth of various
colours, white, striped, or checkered; and almost all of them
had about their heads a white wrapper, in some degree re-
sembling a turban. They were of a tawny complexion, rc-
bust, and about the middle size.
At the same time, a small canoe was lanched from the
farther end of the beach; and, a man getting into it, put off
with a view to reach the ship. On this, the captain brought
to, that he might receive the visit; but the man's resolution
failing, he soon returned towards the beach, where, after
some time, another man joined him in the canoe; and then
they both paddled towards the ship. They stopt short, how-
ever, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed
them in the Otaheite language, in some measure quieted
their apprehensions. They then came near enough to take
some beads and nails; which were tied to a piece of wood,
and thrown into the canoe. They seemed afraid to touch
these things, and put the piece of wood aside, without unty-
ing them. This however might arise from superstition; for
Omai said, that when they saw us offering them presents,
they asked something for their Eatooa, or god. He also, per-
haps improperly, put the question to them, whether they
ever eat any human flesh? which they answered in the nega-
tive, with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of
them whose name was Mourooa, being asked how he came
by a scar on his forehead, answered, that it was in conse-
quence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of
an island, which lies towards the northeast, who sometimes
came to invade them. They afterwards took hold of a rope.
Still, however, they would not venture on board, but told
Omai, that their countrymen had given them this caution, at
the same time directing them to inquire, whence the ship
came, and the name of the captain. Their chief, they said,
was called Orooaeeka. Upon our inquiring the name of the
island, they told us it was Mangya, or Mangeea, to which
they sometimes added nooe, nai, naiwa.
Mourooa was lusty, but not very tall; his features were
agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less so; for he

88
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
made several droll gesticulations, which indicated both good
nature, and a share of humour. He also made others, which
seemed of a serious kind, and repeated some words with a
devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope; which
was probably to recommend himself to the protection of
some divinity. His colour was nearly of the same cast with
that common to the more southern Europeans. The other
man was not so handsome. Both of them had strong, strait
hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head
with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles, which were a sub-
stance made from the morus papyrifera, in the same manner
as at the other islands in this ocean. It was glazed like the
sort used by the natives at the Friendly Islands; but the cloth
on their heads was white, like that which was found at Ota-
heite. They had on a kind of sandals, made of a grassy sub-
stance interwoven, and probably intended to defend their feet
against the rough coral rock. Their beards were long; and
the inside of their arms, from the shoulders to the elbow,
and some other parts, were punctured or tatooed, after the
manner of the natives of almost all the other islands in the
South sea. The lobe of the ears was pierced, or rather slit,
and to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife
and some beads, which had been given to them; and the
same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of
human hair loosely twisted hanging about his neck. The
canoe they came in was not above ten feet long, and very
narrow, but both strong and neatly made. The fore part had
a flat board fastened over it, and projecting out, to prevent
the sea getting in or plunging. The lower part was of white
wood; but the upper part was black, and their paddles were
made of wood of the same colour; these were broad at one
end, and blunted, and about three feet long. It had an up-
right stern, five feet high, which terminated at the top
in
kind of fork. They paddled indifferently either end of the
canoe forward.
As soon as the ships were in a proper station, captain
Cook sent out two boats to endeavour to find a convenient
place for landing. In one of them he went himself, and had
no sooner put off from the ship, than the two men in the
canoe paddled towards his boat; and when they were come
along-side, Mourooa, without hesitation, stept into her.
Omai, who was with the captain, was desired to inquire of
the islander where we could land; upon which he directed
us to two places. But we soon observed with regret, that
the attempt at either place was impracticable, on account of
a

Plate 5.
Challur nr.
OF
Nn
AMAN of MAYGDA.
AWOMAN of EA00.
MICH


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
89
a
the surf, unless at the risk of having our boats destroyed.
Nor were we more successful in our search for anchorage,
as we could find no bottom till within a cable's length of the
breakers, where we met with from forty to twenty fathoms
depth, over sharp rocks of coral.
While we thus reconnoitred the shore of Mangeea, the
natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. Mourooa,
who still remained in the boat with captain Cook, thinking, ,
perhaps, that this warlike appearance deterred us from land-
ing, commanded them to retire. As many of them complied,
we imagined, that he was a person of some consequence: in-
deed, if we did not misunderstand him, he was brother to
the king of the island. Several of them, instigated by curi-
osity, swam from the shore to the boats, and came on board
them without reserve. We even found some difficulty in
keeping them out, and could scarce prevent their pilfering
whatever they could lay their hands upon. At length, when
they observed us returning to the ships, they all left us ex-
cept Mourooa, who, though not without manifest indications
of fear, accompanied the commodore on board the Resolu-
tion. The cattle and other new objects that he saw there did
not strike him with much surprise; his mind, perhaps, being
too much occupied about his own safety, to allow him to at-
tend to other things. He seemed very uneasy, and gave us
but little new intelligence, and therefore, after he had con-
tinued a short time on board, captain Cook ordered a boat to
carry him towards the land. In his way out of the cabin,
happening to stumble over one of the goats, he stopped, look-
ed at the animal, and asked Omai what bird it was; but not
receiving an immediate answer from him, he put the same
question to some of the people who were upon deck. The
boat having conveyed him near the surf, he leaped into the
water, and swam ashore. His countrymen, eager to learn
from him what he had seen, flocked round him as soon as he
had landed; in which situation they remained when we lost
sight of them. We hoisted in the boat as soon as she return-
ed, and made sail to the northward. Thus were we obliged
to leave this fine island unvisited, which seemed capable of
supplying all our necessities. It is situate in the longitude of
101° 53' east, and in the latitude of 21° 57' south.
Those parts of the coast of Mangeea which fall under our
observation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, against
which a heavy surf is continually breaking. The island is
about five leagues in circumference, and though of a mode-
rate and pretty equal height, may be seen in clear weather at
a
а
VOL. I.
M

90
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
the distance of ten leagues. In the interior parts, it rises into
small hills, whence there is an easy descent to the shore,
which, in the southwest part is steep, though not very high,
and has several excavations made by the dashing of the
waves against a brownish sandy-stone, of which it consists.
The descent here abounds with trees of a deep green, which
seem to be all of one sort, except nearest the shore, where
we observed numbers of that species of dracæna found in the
woods of New Zealand. The shore, on the northwest part,
terminates in a sandy beach, beyond which the land is broken
into small chasms, and has a broad border of trees which re-
semble tall willows. Farther up, on the ascent, the trees were
of the deep green above-mentioned, which some of us ima-
gined to be the rima, intermixed with cocoa-palms, and a
few other sorts. Some trees of a higher sort were thinly
scattered on the hills, the other parts of which were either
covered with something like fern, or were bare, and of a
reddish colour. The island, upon the whole, has a pleasing
appearance, and might, by proper cultivation, be made a very
beautiful
spot.
The natives appearing to be both numerous and well fed,
it is highly probable, that such articles of provision as the
island produces are found in great abundance. Our friend
Mourooa informed
us,
that they had no hogs nor dogs,
though they had heard of both those animals; but that they
had plantains, taro, and bread fruit. The only birds we ob-
served, were some terms, noddies, white egg-birds, and one
white heron.
The language of the Mangeeans is a dialect of that of
Otaheite; but their pronunciation is more guttural. They
resemble the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Marquesas in
the beauty of their persons; and their general diposition also
seems to correspond with that of the firstmentioned people;
for they are not only lively and cheerful, but are acquainted
with all the lascivious gesticulations practised by the Ota-
heiteans in their dances. We had likewise reason to suppose,
that they have similar methods of living: for, though we had
not an opportunity of seeing many of their habitations, we
observed one house near the beach, which, in its mode of
construction, differed little from those of Otaheite. It appear-
ed to be seven or eight feet high, and about thirty in length,
with an open end, which represented an ellipse, or oval,
transversely divided. It was pleasantly situated in a grove.
These people salute strangers by joining noses, and taking
the hand of the person whom they accost, which they rub

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
9.1
with some force
upon
their mouth and nose. It is worthy of
remark, that the inhabitants of the Palaos, New-Philippine,
or rather Caroline Islands, though at the distance of near
1500 leagues from Mangeea, have a similar method of salu-
tation.
We quitted Mangeea in the afternoon of the 30th of
March, and proceeding on a northerly course, we again dis-
covered land on the 31st, at the distance of nine or ten
leagues. The next morning we were abreast of its north
end, within four leagues of it. It now appeared to us to be
an island nearly of the same extent with that which we had
just left. Another island, much smaller, was also descried,
right ahead. Though we could soon have reached this, we
preferred the larger one, as being most likely to furnish food
for the cattle. We therefore made sail to it; but there be-
ing little wind, and that unfavourable, we were still about
two leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the succeeding morn-
ing. The commodore, soon after despatched three armed
boats, under the command of Mr. Gore, his first lieutenant,
in search of a landing place and anchoring ground. Mean-
while we plied up under the island with the ships. As our
boats were putting off, we saw several canoes coming from
the shore, which repaired first to the Discovery, as that ship
was the nearest. Not long after three of these canoes, each
conducted by one man, came along side of the Resolution.
They are long and narrow, and are supported by outriggers:
the head is flat above, but prowlike below; and the stern is
about four feet high. We bestowed on our visiters some
knives, beads, and other trifles; and they gave us some
cocoa-nuts, in consequence of our having asked for them;
but they did not part with them by way of exchange, as they
seemed to have no idea of barter or traffic. One of them,
after a little persuasion, came on board; and the other two
soon followed his example. They appeared to be perfectly
at ease, and free from all apprehension. After their depar-
ture, a man arrived in another canoe, bringing a bunch of
plantains as a present to captain Cook, who gave him, in
return, a piece of red cloth and an axe. We were afterwards
informed by Omai, that this present had been sent from the
king of the island. Soon after, a double canoe, containing
twelve of the islanders, came towards us. On approaching
the ship, they recited some words in concert, by way of
ehorus, one of them first giving the word before each repeti-
tion. Having finished this solemn chant, they came along-
side and asked for the chief. As soon as captain Cook had.
a

92
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
made his appearance, a pig and some cocoa-nuts were con-
veyed into the ship; and the captain was also presented with
a piece of matting, by the principal person in the canoe, when
he and his companions had got on board.
These new visiters were introduced into the cabin, and
conducted to other parts of the ship. Though some objects
seemed to surprise them, nothing could fix their attention.
They were afraid to venture near the cows and horses, of
whose nature they could form no conception. As for the
sheep and goats, they gave us to understand, that they knew
them to be birds. It is a matter of astonishment, that human
ignorance could ever make so ridiculous a mistake, as there
is not the smallest resemblance between any winged animal
and a sheep or goat. But these people seemed uracquainted
with the existence of any other terrestrial animals, than
hogs, dogs, and birds; and as they saw that our goats and
sheep were very different from the two former, they absurdly
inferred, that they must belong to the latter class, in which
they knew there was a great variety of species. Though
the commodore bestowed on his new friend what he sup-
posed would be the most acceptable present, yet he seemed
somewhat disappointed. The captain was afterwards inform-
ed that he eagerly wished to procure a dog, of which kind of
animals this island was destitute, though the natives knew
that the race existed in other islands of the Pacific ocean.
Captain Clerke had received a similar present, with the same
view, from another man, who was equally disappointed in
his expectations.
The islanders whom we had seen in these canoes were
in general of middle stature, and not unlike the Mangeans.
Their hair either flowed loosely over their shoulders, or was
tied on the crown of the head; and though in some it was
frizzled, yet that as well as the straight sort, was long.
Some of the young men were handsome. Like the inha-
bitants of Mangeea, they wore girdles of glazed cloth, or
fine matting, the ends of which were brought between their
thighs. Their ears were bored, and they wore about their
necks, by way of ornament, a sort of broad grass, stained
,
with red, and strung with berries of the night-shade. Many
of them were curiously marked or tatooed from the middle
downwards, particularly upon their legs; which made them
appear as if they wore boots. Their beards were long, and
they had a kind of sandals on their feet. They were frank
and cheerful in their deportment, and very friendly and
good natured.
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
93
Lieutenant Gore returned from his excursion in the after-
noon, and informed captain Cook, that he had examined the
west side of the island, without being able to find a place
where the ships could ride in safety, or a boat could land, the
shore being bounded by a steep coral rock, against which a
continual surf broke with extraordinary violence. But as
the inhabitants seemed extremely friendly, and as desirous
of our landing as we ourselves were, Mr. Gore was of opi-
nion, that they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the
boats beyond the surf, such articles as we were most in need
of. As we had little or no wind, the delay of a day or two
was of small consideration; and therefore the commodore
resolved to try the experiment the next morning. We ob-
served, soon after day-break, some canoes coming towards
the ships; one of which directed its course towards the
Resolution. There were in it some cocoa-nuts and plantains,
and a hog, for which the natives demanded a dog from us,
refusing every other thing that we offered by way of ex-
change. Though one of our gentlemen on board had a dog
and a bitch, which were great nuisances in the ship, and
which might have served to propagate a race of so useful an
animal in this island, yet he could not be prevailed upon to
part with them. However, to gratify these people, Omai
gave them a favourite dog he had brought from Great Bri-
tain; with which acquisition they were highly pleased.
The same morning, which was the 3d of April, captain
Cook detached Mr. Gore with three boats, to make trial of
the experiment which that officer had proposed. Two of the
natives, who had been on board, accompanied him; and Omai
served as an interpreter. The ships being a full league from
the island when the boats put off, and the wind being incon-
siderable, it was twelve o'clock before we could work up to
it. We then perceived our three boats just without the surf,
and an amazing number of the islanders on the shore abreast
of them. Concluding from this, that lieutenant Gore, and
others of our people, had landed, we were impatient to know
the event. With a view of observing their motions, and be-
ing ready to afford them such assistance as they might occa-
sionally require, the commodore kept as near the shore as
was consistent with prudence. He was convinced, however,
that the reef was a very effectual barrier between us and our
friends who had landed, and put them completely out of the
reach of our protection. But the natives, in all probability,
were not so sensible of this circumstance as we were. Some of
them, now and then, brought a few cocoa-ruts to the ships,
a

94
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
and exchanged them for whatever was offered them. These
occasional visits diminished the captain's solicitude about
our people who had landed; for, though we could procure
no intelligence from our visiters, yet their venturing on
board seemed to imply, that their countrymen on shore had
made no improper use of the confidence reposed in them.
At length, towards the evening, we had the satisfaction of
seeing the boats return. When our people got on board, we
found that Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Burney, and
Omai, were the only persons who had landed. The occur-
rences of the day were now fully reported to the commodore
by Mr. Gore. Mr. Anderson's account of their transactions,
which was very circumstantial, and included some ob-
servations on the island and its inhabitants, was to the fol-
lowing purport:
They rowed towards a sandy beach, where a great num-
ber of the natives had assembled, and came to an anchor at the
distance of a hundred yards from the reef. Several of the
islanders swam off, bringing cocoa-nuts with them; and Omai
gave them to understand, that our people were desirous of
landing. Soon after, two canoes came off; and to inspire
the natives with a greater confidence, Mr. Gore and his
companions resolved to go unarmed, and to run the hazard
of being treated well or ill.
Our conductors,' says Mr. Anderson, watching atten-
tively the motions of the surf, landed Mr. Burney and
myself, who were in the first canoe, safely upon the reef. An
islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an inten-
tion to support us in walking over the rugged rock to the
beach, where several of the others met us, holding the
green boughs of a species of mimosa in their hands, and
saluted us by joining their noses to ours.
Mr. Gore and
Omai were landed from the second canoe.
'A great crowd flocked with eager curiosity to look at us;
and would have prevented our proceeding, had not some,
who seemed to have authority, dealt blows, with little dis-
tinction among them, to keep them off.
them, to keep them off. We were then led
up an avenue of cocoa-palms, and soon came to a number of
men, arranged in two rows, and armed with clubs, which
they hold on their shoulders, much in the same manner as
we rest a musket. After walking a little way among these,
we found a person who seemed a chief, sitting on the
ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triangu-
lar fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polished
handle of black wood, fixed to one corner.
Jp his ears were

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
95
large branches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed for-
ward. But he had no other mark or ornament, to distin-
guish him from the rest of the people; though they all obey-
ed him with the greatest alacrity. He either naturally had,
or at this time put on a serious, but not severe countenance;
and we were desired to salute him, as he sat, by some peo-
ple, who seemed of consequence,
We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs,
and came to a second chief, who sat fanning himself, and
ornamented as the first. He was remarkable for his size,
and uncommon corpulence, though to appearance not above
thirty. In the same manner, we were conducted to a third
chief, who seemed older than the two former, and though
not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He also was
sitting, and adorned with red feathers; and after saluting
him as we had done the others, he desired us both to sit
down, which we were very willing to do, being pretty well
fatigued with walking up, and with the excessive heat we
felt, amongst the vast crowd that surrounded us.
'In a few minutes, the people were ordered to separate;
and we saw, at the distance of thirty yards, about twenty
young women, ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers,
engaged in a dance, which they performed to a slow and
serious air, sung by them all. We got up, and went for-
ward to see them; they continued their dance, without pay-
ing the least attention to us. They seemed to be directed by
a man who served as a prompter, and mentioned each mo-
tion they were to make. But they never changed the spot,
as we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at rest,
this exercise consisted more in moving their fingers very
nimbly, at the same time holding their hands in a prone po-
sition near their face, and now and then also clapping them
together. Their motions and song were performed in such
exact concert, that it should seem they had been taught with
great care; and probably they were selected for this cere-
mony, as few of those whom he saw in the crowd equalled
them in beauty. In general, they were rather stout than
slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck,
and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather
fuller, than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much
alike; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each counte-
nance expressed a degree of complacency and modesty, pe-
culiar to the sex in every part of the world; but perhaps
more conspicuous here, where nature presented us with her
productions in the fullest perfection, unbiassed in sentiment

96
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
by custom, or unrestrained in manner by art.
Their shape
and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their dress con-
sisted only of a piece of glazed cloth, fastened about the
waist, and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in many
we had an opportunity of observing every part. This dance
was not finished, when we heard a noise, as if some horses
had been galloping towards us; and on looking aside, we
saw the people armed with clubs, who had been desired, as
we suppose, to entertain us with the sight of their manner of
fighting. This they now did, one party pursuing another
who fled.
· As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to the
chiefs was now at an end, we began to look about for Mr.
Gore and Omai: and, though the crowd would hardly suffer
us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much
incommoded by the people as we had been, and introduced
in the same manner to the three chiefs. Each of these ex-
pected a present; and Mr. Gore gave them such things as
he had brought with him from the ship, for that purpose.
After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, he in-
formed the chiefs with what intention we had come on shore;
but was given to understand, that he must wait till the next
day, and then he should have what was wanted.
They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from
each other; and every one of us had his respective circle, to
surround and gaze at him. For my part, I was, at one time,
,
above an hour apart from my friends; and when I told the
chief, with whom I sat, that I wanted to speak to Omai, he
peremptorily refused my request. At the same time, I
found the people began to steal several trifling things which
I had in
my pocket: and when I complained to the chief of
this treatment, he justified it. From these circumstances, I
now entertained apprehensions, that they had a design to de-
tain us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of
a disposition so savage, as to make us anxious for the safety
of our persons; but it was, nevertheless, vexing to think, we
had hazarded being detained by their curiosity. In this situa-
tion, I asked for something to eat; and they readily brought
me some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a sort of sour pudding,
which was presented by a woman.
And on my complaining
much of the heat occasioned by the crowd, the chief him-
self condescended to fan me, and gave me a small piece of
cloth, which he had round his waist.
Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was,
I mentioned my suspicions to him; and to put it to the test,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
97
<
a
whether they were well founded; we attempted to get to the
beach. But we were stopt, when about half-way, by some
men, who told us, that we must go back to the place we had
left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the same
apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional
reason for being afraid; for he had observed, that they had
dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now
heating; and he could assign no other reason for this, than
that they meant to roast, and eat us, as is practised by the
natives of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to ask
them the question; at which they were greatly surprised,
asking, in return, whether that was a custom with us? Mr.
Burney and I were rather angry that they should be thus
suspected by him; there having, as yet been no appearances,
in their conduct towards us, of their being capable of such
brutality.
In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the
day, being sometimes together, and sometimes separated,
but always in a crowd; who, not satisfied with gazing at us;
frequently desired us to uncover parts of our skin; the sight
of which commonly produced a general murmur of admira-
tion. At the same time, they did not omit these opportuni-
ties of rifling our pockets; and, at last, one of them snatched
a small bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in a sheath by
his side. This was represented to the chief, who pretended
to send some persons in search of it. But, in all probability,
he countenanced the theft; for, soon after, Omai had a dag-
ger
stolen from his side, in the same manner, though he did
not miss it immediately.
" Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or
that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendship,
when we expressed a desire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this
time, they brought some green boughs, and sticking their
ends in the ground, desired we would hold them as we sat.
Upon my urging our business again, they gave us to under-
stand, that we must stay and eat with them; and a pig that we
saw soon after lying near the oven, which they had pre-
pared and heated, removed Omai's apprehensions of being
put into it himself; and made us think it might be intended
for our repast. The chief also promised to send some peo-
ple to procure food for the cattle; but it was not till late in
the afternoon, that we saw them return with a few plantain-
trees, which they carried to our boats.
In the mean time, Mr. Burney and I attempted again to
go to the beach; but when we arrived, found ourselves
a
VOL. I.
N

98
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
I had ga-
a
watched by the people, who seemed to have been planted
there for that purpose: for, when I tried to wade in upon the
reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged me
back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which they
required me to throw down again; and, on my refusal, they
made no scruple to take them forcibly from me.
thered some small plants; but these also I could not be per-
mitted to retain; and they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which
he had received as a present on coming ashore. Omai said,
we had done wrong in taking up any thing; for it was not the
custom here to permit freedoms of that kind to strangers,
till they had, in some measure, naturalized them to the
country, by entertaining them with festivity two or three
days.
Finding that the only method of procuring better treat-
ment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went
up again to the place we had left; and they now promised,
that we should have a canoe to carry us off to our boats,
after we had eaten of a repast which had been prepared
for us.
Accordingly, the second chief before-mentioned, having
seated himself upon a low broad stool of blackish hard wood,
tolerably polished, and directing the multitude to make a
pretty large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable
number of cocoa-nuts were now brought, and, shortly after,
a long green basket, with a sufficient quantity of baked plan-
tains to have served a dozen persons. A piece of the young
hog that had been dressed, was then set before each of us,
of which we were desired to eat. Our appetites, however,
had failed, from the fatigue of the day; and though we did
eat a little to please them, it was without satisfaction to
ourselves.
It being now near sun-set, we told them it was time to
go on board. This they allowed; and sent down to the beach,
the remainder of the victuals that had been dressed, to be
carried with us to the ship. We found a canoe ready to put
us off to our boats, which the natives did with the same cau-
tion as when we landed. They put us on board the boats,
with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions, which
they had brought; and we rowed to the ships, very well pleased
that we had at last got out of the hands of our troublesome
masters.'
The restrained situation of these gentlemen gave them very
little opportunity of observing the country: for they were
seldom a hundred yards from the place where they had been
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
99
а
introduced to the chiefs, and consequently were confined to
the surrounding objects. The first thing that attracted their
notice was the number of people, which must have been at
least two thousand. Except a few, those who had come on
board the ships were all of an inferior class; for a great num-
ber of those that our gentlemen met with on shore, had a su-
perior dignity of demeanour, and their complexion was much
whiter. In general, they had their hair, which was long and
black, tied on the crown of the head. Many of the young
men were perfect models in shape, and of a delicate com-
plexion. The old men were, many of them corpulent; and
they, as well as the young, had a remarkable smoothness of
skin. Their general dress consisted of a piece of cloth wrap-
ped about the waist, but some had pieces of mats, most cu-
riously variegated with black and white, formed into a kind of
jacket without sleeves; while others wore conical caps made
of the core of a cocoa-nut, interwoven with beads. In their
ears, which were pierced, they hung pieces of the membrane-
ous part of some plant, or stuck there some odoriferous flow-
er. The chiefs, and other persons of rank, had two little balls,
with a common base, made of bone; which they hung round
their necks with a small chord. Red feathers are here con-
sidered as a particular mark of distinction; for none but the
chiefs, and the young women who danced, assumed them.
Some of the men were punctured all over the sides and back,
and some of the women had the same ornament (if it de-
serves that name) on their legs. The elderly women had
their hair cropped short, and many of them were cut all over
the fore part of the body in oblique lines. The wife of a chief
appeared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had
been presented to her husband; she suckled the infant much
after the same manner of our women. Another chief intro-
duced his daughter, who was young, beautiful and modest.
No personal deformities were observed in either sex, except a
few individuals who had scars of broad ulcers remaining on
the face and other parts.
Many of the natives were armed with spears and clubs,
the latter of which were generally about six feet long, made
of a hard black wood, neatly polished. The spears were form-
ed of the same wood, simply pointed, and were in general
twelve feet long; but some were so short as to seem intended
for darts.
They preserved their canoes from the sun under the shade
of various trees. Our gentlemen saw eight or ten of them,
all double ones; that is, two single ones fastened together by
a

100
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
rafters lashed across. They were about four feet deep, and
in length about twenty feet, and the sides were rounded with
a plank raised upon them. Two of these canoes were curi-
ously stained all over with black, in innumerable small figures,
as triangles, squares, &c. and were far superior to any thing
of the kind Mr. Anderson had ever seen at any other
island in the South sea. The paddles were almost elliptical,
and about four feet long.
Most of the trees observed by Mr. Anderson, were cocoa-
palms, some species of hibiscus, a sort of euphorbia, and many
of the same kind he had seen at Mangeea. The latter are
tall and slender, resembling a cypress; and are called by the
natives etoa. He also saw a species of convolvulus, and some
treacle mustard; besides which there are doubtless other
plants and fruit-trees which he had not an opportunity of see-
ing. The soil, towards the sea, is nothing more than a bank
of coral, generally steep and rugged, which though it has
probably been for many centuries exposed to the weather, has
suffered no further change than becoming black on its sur-
face. The reef or rock, with which the shore is lined, runs
to different breadths into the sea, where it resembles a high
steep wall: it is of a brownish colour, and nearly even with
the surface of the water; and though its texture is rather po-
rous, it is capable of withstanding the washing of the surf
which constantly breaks upon it.
.
Though the landing of our gentlemen was the means of en-
riching the narrative of the voyage with the preceding parti-
culars, the principal object in view was partly unattained; for
we scarce procured any thing worth mentioning from the
island.
It was mentioned, that Omai was sent upon this ex-
pedition; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's interpreter,
was not the only service he performed this day. He was
asked by the natives a great many questions concerning our
people, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms we used:
and, according to the account he gave to captain Cook, his
answers were not a little upon
the marvellous. Our country,
he told them, had ships as large as their island; on board
which were instruments of war (describing our guns) of such
dimensions, that several people might sit within them; and
that one of them was sufficient to crush the whole island at
one shot. This led them to ask what sort of guns were on
board captain Cook's ships. He said, that though they were
but smali in comparison with those he had described, yet,
with such as they were, they could with the greatest ease,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
101
a
a
oven.
and at the distance the ships were from the shore, destroy the
island, and kill every soul in it. They then inquired by what
means this could be done, and Omai explained it as well as
he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in
his pocket. These he produced: the balls, and the gun-pow-
der that was to set them in motion, were submitted to inspec-
tion; and, to supply the defects of his description, an appeal
was made to the senses of the spectators. The multitude
had been formed, as before mentioned, into a circle. This
furnished Omai with a convenient stage for his exhibition.
In the centre of this, the small quantity of gun-powder col-
lected from his cartridges, was properly disposed upon the
ground, and set on fire by a piece of burning wood from the
The sudden blast, and loud report, the mingled flame
and smoke, that instantly succeeded, filled the whole assem-
bly with astonishment. They no longer doubted the tremen-
dous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that
Omai had said.
If it had not been for the terrible idea they conceived of
the ship's guns, from the specimen of their mode of operation, ,
it was thought they would have detained the gentlemen all
night. For Omai assured them, that if he and his compa-
nions did not return on board the same day, they might ex-
pect that the captain would fire upon the island. And as the
ships stood in nearer the land in the evening, than they had
done any time before, of which they were observed to take
great notice, they probably thought that this formidable attack
was meditating; and therefore they suffered their guests to
depart; in the expectation, however, of seeing them again on
shore next morning. But captain Cook was too sensible of
the risk they had already run, to think of repeating the expe-
riment.
This island, though never before visited by Europeans, had
actually other strangers residing in it. Omai, when he land-
ed with Mr. Gore, found amongst the crowd, three of his
own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. At the dis-
tance of about 200 leagues from those islands, an immense
unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched sea-boats as
their inhabitants are known to make use of, and fit only for a
passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meet-
ing, at such a place, so accidentally visited by captain Cook's
people, may well be looked upon as one of those unexpected
situations, with which the writers of feigned adventures love
to surprise their readers, and which when they really happen
in common life, deserve to be recorded for their singularity.

102
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
SC
mer.
It may be imagined, with what surprise and satisfaction
Omai and his countrymen engaged in conversation. Their
story is very affecting. Twenty persons of both sexes, had
embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the
neighbouring island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising,
they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the for-
Their intended passage being a very short one, their
stock of provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. The
hardships they suffered, while driven by the storm they knew
not whither, are not to be conceived. They passed many
days without any thing to eat or drink. Worn out by famine
and fatigue, their numbers gradually diminished. Four men
only survived, when the canoe overset; and then the perdi-
tion of these seemed inevitable. However, they kept hang-
ing by its side, during some of the last days, till Providence
brought them in sight of the people of this island, who imme-
diately sent out canoes, and brought them ashore. Of the
four thus saved, one was since dead. The other three, who
lived to give this account of their almost miraculous trans-
plantation, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met
with; and they were so well satisfied with their present situ-
ation, that they refused the offer made to them at Omai's
request, of giving them a passage to their native islands.
The similarity of manners and language had more than na-
turalized them to this spot; and the fresh connexions they
had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have
broken off, after such a length of time, sufficiently account for
this refusal. They had arrived upon this island at least
twelve years ago.
"The landing,' says captain Cook, of our gentlemen on
this island, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate cir-
cumstance. It has proved the means of thus bringing to our
knowledge a fact, not only very curious, but very instructive.
The application of the above narrative is obvious. It will
serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of specu-
lative reasoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and in
particular, how the islands of the South sea, may have been
first peopled; especially those that lie remote from any inha-
bited continent or from each other.'
According to Omai's account of what he learned in con-
versation with his three countrymen, the manners of those
islanders, their method of treating strangers, and their gene-
ral habits of life, are much like those that prevail at Otaheite,
and its neighbouring isles. Their religious ceremonies and
opinions are also nearly the same. From every circumstance,
6
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
103
indeed, it is indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo sprang
originally, from the same stock, which has spread itself so
wonderfully all over the immense extent of the South sea.
One would suppose, however, that they put in their claim to a a
more illustrious extraction: for Omai said, that they digni-
fied their island with the appellation of Wenooa no te Eatooa,
that is, a land of gods; esteeming themselves a sort of divini-
ties, and
possessed with the spirit of Eatooa. This wild en-
thusiastic notion Omai seemed much to approve of: observing,
that there were instances of its being entertained at Otaheite;
but that it was universally prevalent among the inhabitants
of Mataia, or Osnaburg island. Omai, and our two New-
Zealanders perfectly understood their language, which was
pretty much the same as that at the other islands. Any pe-
culiarities in it cannot be pointed out, as the memorandum
book, in which Mr. Anderson had put down a specimen of
it, was stolen by the natives.
Having failed in procuring any supplies of consequence in
Wateeoo, and the easterly swell having carried the ships to
some distance from the island, on the night of the 3d of
April; early next morning captain Cook steered for the island
which he had discovered three days before.
About ten o'clock next morning they got up to it, and
Mr. Gore was immediately dispatched with two boats, to
look out a landing place, and procure provender for the cattle.
Though a reef surrounded the land here, as at Wateeoo, and
a considerable surf broke against the rocks, our boats no
sooner reached the west side of the island but they ventured
in, and Mr. Gore and his attendants arrived safe on shore.
Captain Cook seeing they had so far succeeded, sent a small
boat to know if further assistance was required. She waited
to take in a lading of the produce of the island, and did not
return till three o'clock in the afternoon: being cleared, she
was sent again for another cargo; the jolly boat was also dis-
patched upon the same business, with orders for Mr. Gore
to return with the boats before night, which orders were punc-
tually observed.
The supply obtained here was about two hundred cocoa-
nuts for ourselves, and for our cattle some grass, and a quan-
tity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa-trees, and the
pandanus.
This island lies about three or four leagues from Wateeoo,
the inhabitants of which call it Otakootaia. It is in the latitude
of 19° 15' south and the longitude of 20° 37' east, and is
supposed not to exceed three miles in circuit.

104
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
This island is entirely destitute of water. Cocoa-palms
were the only common trees found there, of which there were
several clusters, and great quantities of the wharra, or pan-
danus. There were also the callophillum, suriana, with a few
other shrubs; also a sort of bind-weed, treacle-mustard, a
species of spurge, and the morinda citrifolia; the fruit of
which is sometimes eaten by the natives of Otaheite. Omai,
who landed with the party, dressed some of it for their dinner,
but they thought it very indifferent.
A beautiful cuckoo, of a chesnut brown, variegated with
black, was the only bird seen amongst the tress; but, upon
the shore, were a small sort of curlew, blue and white herons,
some egg-birds, and great numbers of noddies.
One of the company caught a lizard running up a tree;
though small, it had a most forbidding aspect. Many of
another sort were also seen. Infinite numbers of a kind of
moth, elegantly speckled with black, white and red, frequent-
ed the bushes towards the sea. Some other sorts of moths
and pretty butterflies were seen.
At this time there were no fixed inhabitants upon the island;
but we discovered a few empty huts, which convinced us of
its being, at least, occasionally visited. Monuments, consist-
ing of several large stones, were also erected under the shade
of some trees: there were also some smaller ones, with which
several places were inclosed, where we supposed their dead
had been buried. We found in one place a great many
cockle-
shells, of a particular sort, finely grooved, and larger than
the first; from which it was conjectured, that the island had
been visited by persons who sometimes feed on shellfish. Mr.
Gore left some nails and a hatchet in one of the huts, for
the use of those who might visit the island in future.
The boats being hoisted in, we made sail again to the
northward, resolving to try our fortune at Hervey's Island,
which was discovered by captain Cook in 1773, during his
last voyage. We got sight of it about day-break in the morn-
ing of the 6th, at the distance of about three leagues. We
approached it about eight o'clock, and observed several ca-
noes coming from the shore towards the ship. We were ra-
ther surprised at this circumstance, as no traces or signs of
inhabitants were seen when the island was first discovered:
this, indeed, might be owing to a brisk wind that then blew,
and prevented their canoes venturing out.
Advancing still towards the island, six or seven double ca-
noes immediately came near us, with from three to six men
in each of them. At the distance of about a stone's throw

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
105
a
from the ship they stopped, and it was with difficulty that
Omai prevailed on them to come alongside; but they could
not be induced to trust themselves on board. Indeed, their
disorderly behaviour did not indicate a disposition to trust us,
or to treat us well. They attempted to steal some oars out
of the Discovery's boat, and struck a man for endeavouring
to prevent them. They also cut away a net containing meat,
which hung over the stern of that ship, and at first would not
restore it, though they afterwards permitted us to purchase it
from them. Those who were about the Resolution, behaved
equally disorderly and daring; for, with a sort of hooks made
of a long stick, they openly endeavoured to rob us of several
things, and actually got a frock belonging to one of our people.
It appeared that they had a knowledge of bartering, for they
exchanged some fish for some of our small nails, of which they
were extravagantly fond, and called them goore. Pieces of
paper or any other trifling article that was thrown to them,
they caught with the greatest avidity; and if what was thrown
fell into the sea, they immediately plunged in to swim after it.
Though the distance between Hervey's Island and Wa-
teeoo is not very great, the inhabitants differ greatly from
each other, both in person and disposition. The colour of the
natives of Hervey's Island is of a deeper cast, and several of
them had a fierce savage aspect, like the natives of New Zea-
land, though some were fairer. Their hair was long and
black, either hanging loose about their shoulders, or tied in a
bunch on the top of the head. Some few, indeed, had it crop-
ped short, and, in two or three of them, it was of a red or
brownish colour. Their clothing was a narrow piece of mat,
bound several times round the lower part of the body, and
passing between the thighs. We saw a fine cap of red feathers
lying in one of the canoes, and some among them were orna-
mented with the shell of a pearl-oyster, polished and hung
about the neck.
The mode of ornament so prevalent among the natives of
this ocean, of puncturing or tatooing their bodies, not one of
them had adopted; but though they were singular in this re-
spect, their being of the same common race is not to be doubt-
ed. Their language more resembled the dialect of Otaheite,
than that of Mangeea or Wateeoo. Like the natives of those
islands they inquired from whence we came, whither bound,
the ship's name, the name of our chief, and the number of
men on board. Such questions as we proposed to them they
very readily answered. They informed us, among other
things, that they had before seen two large ships, like ours,
a
VOL. I.
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106
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
but had not spoken to them as they passed. These were,
doubtless, the Resolution and Adventure. They acquainted
us that the name of their island was Terouggemou Atooa;
and likewise, that they were subject to Teervatooeah, king
of Wateeoo.
Their food, they said, consisted of cocoa-nuts, fish, and
turtle; being destitute of dogs and hogs, and the island not
producing bread-fruit or plantains. Their canoes (near thirty
of which appeared one time in sight) are tolerably large, and
well built, and bear some resemblance to those of Wateeoo.
We drew near to the northwest part of the island about
one o'clock. This seemed to be the only part where we could
expect to find anchorage, or a landing-place for our boats.
Captain Cook immediately dispatched lieutenant King, with
two armed boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast. The
boats were no sooner hoisted out, than our new visiters sus-
pended their traffic with us, pushing for shore as fast as pos-
sible, and came no more near us.
The boats returned at three o'clock, and Mr. King inform-
ed captain Cook, that he could find no anchorage for the
ships; and that the boats could advance no farther than the
outer edge of the reef, which was almost a quarter of a mile
from the dry land: that a number of the natives came upon
the reef, armed with clubs and long pikes, meaning, as he
supposed, to oppose his landing; though, at the same time,
they threw cocoa-nuts to our people, and requested them to
come on shore; and, notwithstanding this seeming friendly
treatment, the women were very active in bringing down a
fresh supply of darts and spears.
Captain Cook considered that, as we could not bring the
ships to an anchor, the attempt to procure grass here, would
be attended with delay and danger. Being thus disappointed
in all the islands after our leaving New Zealand, and having,
from variety of circumstances, been unavoidably retarded in
our progress, it was in vain to think of doing any thing this
year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere from
which we were then so far distant, though it was then the
season for our operations there. Thus situated, it was neces-
sary to pursue such measures as appeared best calculated to
preserve our cattle, and save the stores and provisions of the
ships; the better to enable us to prosecute our northern dis-
coveries, which could not now commence till a year later than
was intended.
If we could fortunately have procured a supply of water
and grass, at any of the islands we had lately visited, captain
,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
107
Cook intended to have stood back to the south, till he had
got a westerly wind. But, without such a supply, the certain
consequence of doing this, would have been the loss of the
cattle, before it was possible for us to reach Otaheite, with-
out gaining a single point of advantage respecting the grand
object of our voyage.
The captain, therefore, determined to bear away for the
Friendly Islands, where he knew he could be well supplied
with every thing he wanted: and, it being necessary to run
night and day, he ordered captain Clerke to keep a league
ahead of the Resolution; because his ship could best claw off
the land, which we might possibly fall in with, in our
passage.
We steered west by south, with a fine breeze. Captain
Cook proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa,
thinking we might, perhaps, have provision enough for the
cattle, to last till we should arrive at that island. But the
next day, about noon, those faint breezes that had so long
retarded us, again returned; and we found it necessary to
get into the latitude of Palmerston's and Savage Islands,
which captain Cook discovered in 1774, that, in case of ne-
cessity, recourse might be had to them.
In order to save our water, captain Cook ordered the still
to be kept at work a whole day; during which time we pro-
cured about fifteen gallons of fresh water.
These light breezes continued till Thursday the 10th,
when the wind blew some hours fresh from the north, and
north-northwest. In the afternoon we had some very heavy
rain, attended with thunder squalls. We collected as much
rain-water as filled five of our puncheons. When these
squalls had blown over, the wind was very unsettled, both in
strength and in position, till the next day at noon, when it
fixed at northwest, and north-northwest, and blew a fresh
breeze,
We were thus persecuted with a wind in our teeth, and
had the additional mortification to find those very winds
here, which we had reason to expect farther south. At day
break, however, on the 13th, we perceived Palmerston's
Island, bearing west by south, at the distance of about five
leagues; but did not get up with it till the next morning, at
eight. Captain Cook then dispatched three boats from the
Resolution, and one from the Discovery, with a proper of-
ficer in each, to search for a convenient landing-place; we
being now under an absolute necessity of procuring here

108
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
nuts.
some provender for our cattle, or we must certainly have lost
them.
What is called Palmerston's Island, consists of a group
of
small islets, about nine or ten in number, connected together
by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in a circular direction.
The boats first examined the most south-easterly islet; and,
not succeeding there, ran down to the second, where they
immediately landed. Captain Cook then bore down with the
ships, till we were abreast of the place, where we kept stand-
ing off and on, there being no bottom to be found to anchor
upon. This, however, was of no material consequence, as
there were no human beings upon the island, except the party
who had landed from our boats.
At one o'clock one of the boats returned, laden with scur-
vy-grass and young cocoa-trees, which was, at this time, a
most excellent repast for our animals on board. A message
was also brought from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party
upon this expedition, acquainting us that the island abounded
with such produce, and also with the wharra-tree and cocoa-
In consequence of this information, captain Cook re-
solved to get a sufficient supply of these articles before he
quitted this station, and accordingly went on shore in a small
boat, accompanied by the captain of the Discovery. The
island does not exceed a mile in circumference, and is not
elevated above three feet beyond the level of the sea. It con-
sisted almost entirely of a coral sand, with a small mixture of
blackish mould, which appeared to be produced from rotten
vegetables.
This poor soil, is, however, covered with the same kinds
of shrubs and bushes as we had seen at Otakootaia or
Wonooa-ette, though not in so great variety. We perceived
a great number of man of war birds, tropic birds, and two
sorts of boobies, which were then laying their eggs, and so
exceedingly tame as to permit us to take them off their nests,
which consist only of a few sticks loosely put together. These
tropic birds differ essentially from the common sort, being of
a beautiful white, slightly tinged with red, and having two
long tail feathers of a deepish crimson. Our people killed a
considerable number of each sort, which, though not the most
delicate kind of food, were highly acceptable to us, who had
been a long time confined to a salt diet. We saw plenty of
red crabs creeping about among the trees; and caught several
fish, which, when the sea retreated, had been left in holes upon
the reef.
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
109
At one part of the reef, which bounds the lake within, al-
most even with the surface, there was a large bed of coral,
which afforded a most enchanting prospect. Its base, which
was fixed to the shore, extended so far that it could not be
seen, so that it appeared to be suspended in the water. The
sea was then unruffled, and the refulgence of the sun exposed
the various sorts of coral, in the most beautiful order; some
parts luxuriantly branching in the water; others appearing
in vast variety of figures; and the whole greatly heightened
by spangles of the richest colours, glowing from a number of
large clams, interspersed in every part. Even this delightful
scene was greatly improved by the multitude of fishes, that
gently glided along, seemingly with the most perfect secu-
rity. Their colours were the most beautiful than can be ima-
gined; blue, yellow, black, red, &c. far excelling any thing
that can be produced by art. The richness of this submarine
grotto was greatly increased by their various forms; and the
whole could not possibly be surveyed without a pleasing
transport, accompanied, at the same time, with regret, that a
work so astonishingly elegant should be concealed in a place
so seldom explored by the human eye.
Except a piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach,
no traces were discoverable of inhabitants having ever been
here; and probably that may have been drifted from some
other island. We were surprised, however, at perceiving
some small brown rats on this island; a circumstance, per-
haps, not easily accounted for, unless we admit the possibility
of their being imported in the canoe, of which we saw the
remains.
The boats being laden, captain Cook returned on board,
leaving Mr. Gore and his party to pass the night on shore, to
be ready for business early the next morning.
The 15th, like the preceding day, was spent in collecting
subsistence for the cattle, consisting principally of tender
branches of the wharra-tree, palm-cabbage, and young cocoa-
nut-trees. A sufficient supply of these having been procured
by sun-set, captain Cook ordered all the people on board:
but, having very little wind, he determined to employ the
next day, by endeavouring, from the next island to the lee-
ward, to get some cocoa-nuts for our people: for this pur-
pose, we kept standing off and on all night; and, about nine
o'clock in the morning, we went to the west side of the islands,
and landed from our boats with little difficulty. The people
immediately employed themselves in gathering cocoa-nuts,
which we found in the greatest plenty; but it was a tedious

110
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
operation to convey them to our boats, being obliged to carry
them half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water.
Omai, who accompanied us, presently caught with a scoop-
net, as many fish as supplied the party on shore for dinner,
besides sending a quantity to each ship. Men of war, and
.
tropic-birds, were found here in abundance; so that we fared
most sumptuously. In these excursions to the uninhabited
islands, Omai was of the greatest service to us. He caught
the fish, and dressed them, as well as the birds we killed,
after the fashion of his country, with a dexterity and cheer-
fulness that did him honour. Before night, the boats made
two trips, and were each time heavy laden: with the last,
captain Cook returned on board, leaving his third lieutenant,
Mr. Williamson, with a party, to prepare another lading for
the boats against the next morning.
Accordingly, captain Cook dispatched them about seven
o'clock, and, by noon they returned laden. No delay was
made in sending them back for another cargo, with orders
for all to be on board by sun-set. These orders being punctu-
ally obeyed, we hoisted in the boats, and sailed to the west-
ward, with a light air from the north.
The islet we last came from is somewhat larger than the
other, and almost covered with cocoa-palms. The other
pro-
ductions were the same as at the first islet. On the beach
were found two pieces of board, one of which was rudely
carved, and an elliptical paddle. These were, perhaps, a part
of the same canoe, the remains of which we had seen on the
other beach, the two islets being within half a mile of each
other. There were not so many crabs here as at the last
place, but we found some scorpions and other insects, and a
much greater number of fish upon the reefs. Among the rest
were some beautiful large spotted eels, which would raise
themselves out of the water, and endeavour to bite their pur-
suers. There were also snappers, parrot-fish, and a brown
spotted rock-fish, notglarger than a haddock, so tame, that it
would remain fixed, and gaze at us. If we had been really in
want, a sufficient supply might easily have been had, for thou-
sands of the clams stuck upon the reef, many of which
weighed two or three pounds. There were also some other
sorts of shell fish; and, when the tide flowed, several sharks
came with it, some of which were killed by our people; but
their presence rendered it, at that time, unsafe to walk in the
water.
Mr. Williamson and his party, who were left on shore,
were much pestered in the night with musquitoes. Some of

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
111
them shot two curlews, and saw some plovers upon the
shore; one or two cuckoos, like those at Wenooa-ette, were
also seen.
The islets comprehended under the name of Palmerston's
Island, may be said to be the summits of a reef of coral rock,
covered only with a thin coat of sand; though clothed with
trees and plants, like the low grounds of the high islands of
this ocean.
Having left Palmerston's Island, we steered west, in order
to
proceed to Annamooka. We had variable winds, with
squalls, some thunder, and much rain. The showers being
very copious, we saved a considerable quantity of water;
and, as we could procure a greater supply in one hour by
the rain, than by distillation in a month, we laid the still
aside, as being attended with more trouble than advantage.
The heat, which had continued in the extreme for about a
month, became much more disagreeable in this close rainy
weather, and we apprehended it would soon be noxious. It
is, however, remarkable that there was not then a single per-
son sick on board either of the ships.
We passed Savage Island, which captain Cook discovered
in 1774, in the night between the 24th and 25th; and on the
28th, about ten o'clock in the morning, we saw the islands to
the eastward of Annamooka, bearing north by west about
five leagues distant. We steered to the south, and then haul-
ed up for Annamooka. At the approach of night, the weather
being squally, with rain, we anchored in fifteen fathoms
water.
We had scarcely anchored, when two canoes paddled to-
wards us, and without hesitation came along-side. They bar-
tered with us for nails, some cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, bread-
fruit, and plantains, which they had brought along with them.
Towards evening, we had a short visit from another canoe:
so eager were they to get possession of a few of our most
trifling articles, that they considered the trouble and danger
of paddling from Komango, at that time five miles distant,
as a matter of no moment.
Next morning at four o'clock, lieutenant King was dis-
patched by captain Cook, with two boats, in order to procure
refreshments, and made the signal to weigh at five, to pro-
ceed to Annamooka.
At day-break, we had a visit from six or seven canoes,
which brought with them, some fowls, two pigs, several large
wood-pigeons, small rails, some violet-coloured coots, be-
sides fruits and roots of various kinds, for which we gave

112
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
them in exchange, beads, hatchets, nails, &c. They had vari-
ous other articles of commerce, but captain Cook had given
particular orders, that we should purchase no curiosities, till
the ships were supplied with provisions, except by his per-
mission.
Mr. King's party returned about noon, having been treated
with great civility at Komango. The chief of the island
Tooboulangee, and another, named Taipa, came on board
with Mr. King. They presented a hog to the captain, and
promised him more next day. Mr. King procured seven
hogs, some fowls, and a quantity of fruits and roots; with
some grass for our animals. They reported, that from any
observations they could make, the inhabitants were not nu-
merous; their huts were very indifferent, and almost joined
to one another.
The boats being aboard, we stood for Annamooka; and,
, ,
having little wind, we intended to go between Annamooka-
ette*, and the breakers at the southeast; but, on drawing
near, we met with very irregular soundings, which obliged
,
us to relinquish the design, and go to the southward. This
carried us to leeward, and we found it necessary to spend
the night under sail. It was dark and rainy, and we had the
wind from every direction. The next morning, at day-light
we were farther off than we had been the preceding evening;
and the wind was now right in our teeth.
We continued to ply, to very little purpose, the whole day;
and, in the evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water;
the west point of Annamooka bearing east-northeast, four
miles distant. Tooboulangee and Taipa, agreeable to their
promise, brought off some hogs for captain Cook: we obtain-
ed others, by bartering, from the different canoes that follow-
ed us, and a large quantity of fruit. It is remarkable, that
those who visited us from the islands, on that day, would
hardly part with any of their commodities to any one but
captain Cook.
At four the next morning, captain Cook ordered a boat to
be hoisted out, and the master to sound the west side of An-
namooka. When he returned, he reported, that he had sound-
ed between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found
ten and twelve fathoms depth of water; that the place was
very well sheltered from winds; but that no fresh water was
to be had but at a considerable distance inland, and that, even
there, it was neither plentiful nor good. For this very suf-
* Little Annamooka.


с.
OF
Plate 6.
сн.
F. Shallur se
Ол VIEWe at . Ажлмоокл.а )

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
113
ficient reason, captain Cook resolved to anchor on the north
side of the island, where, in his last voyage, he had found a
convenient place for watering and landing.
Though not above a league distant, we did not reach it till
about five o'clock in the afternoon, being retarded by the
quantity of canoes that crowded round the ships, laden with
abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Several of
these canoes, which were double, had a large sail, and carried
between forty and fifty men each. Several women too ap-
peared in the canoes, incited, perhaps, by curiosity to visit
us; though they were as earnest in bartering as the men,
and
used the paddle with equal skill and dexterity. We came to
an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the island extending
from east to southwest, about three quarters of a mile dist-
ant. Thus captain Cook resumed the station, which he had
occupied when he visited Annamooka three years before;
and probably where Tasman, who first discovered this island,
anchored in 1643.
The next day, during the preparations for watering, cap-
tain Cook went ashore, in the forenoon, accompanied by
captain Clerke and others, to fix on a place for setting up
the observatories; the natives having readily granted us per-
mission. They showed us every mark of civility, and accom-
modated us with a boat-house, which answered the purpose
of a tent. Toobou, the chief of the island, conducted captain
Cook and Omai to his house, situated on a pleasant spot in
the centre of his plantation. It was surrounded with a grass
plot, which he said was for the purpose of cleaning their feet,
before they entered his habitation. Such an attention to
cleanliness we had never observed before, wherever we had
visited in this ocean; though we afterwards found it to be
very common at the Friendly islands. No carpet in an Eng-
lish drawing-room could be kept neater, than the mats which
covered the floor of Toobou's house.
While we were on shore, we bartered for some hogs and
fruits; and when we arrived on board, the ships were crowd-
ed with the natives. As very few of them came empty hand-
ed, we were speedily supplied with every refreshment.
In the afternoon, captain Cook landed again, with a party
of marines; and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state,
were sent on shore with him. Having settled every thing to
his satisfaction, he returned to the ship in the evening, leav-
ing Mr. King in command upon the island. Taipa was now
become our trusty friend, and in order to be near our party,
had a house carried a quarter of a mile, on men's shoulders,
a
a
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114
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
and placed by the side of the shed which our party oc-
cupied.
Our various operations on shore began the next day. Some
were busied in making hay, others in filling our water-casks,
and a third party in cutting wood. On the same day, Messrs.
King and Bailey began to observe equal altitudes of the sun,
in order to get the rate of our time-keepers. In the evening,
Taipa harangued the natives for some time; but we could
only guess at the subject, and supposed he was instructing
them how to treat us, and advising them to bring the produce
of ihe island to market. His eloquence had the desired effect,
and occasioned us to receive a plentiful supply of provisions
the next day.
On the 4th of May, the Discovery lost her small bower
anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks.
On the 6th, a chief whose name was Feenou, visited us
from Tongataboo: Taipa introduced him to us as king of all
the Friendly isles. We were now informed that a canoe had
been immediately dispatched to Tongataboo with the news
so soon as we arrived, and this occasioned his coming to An-
namooka. The officer on shore also informed us, that all the
,
natives were ordered out to meet him, immediately upon his
arrival, who saluted him by bowing their heads as low as his
feet, the soles of which they touched with the palm of each
hand, and afterwards with the back part. He had also seven
or eight fine handsome women with him, which we were told
were his wives. We could not suppose to be any thing less
than a king, a personage received with such extraordinary
marks of respect. Captain Cook received a present from him
of two fish, which he sent on board by one of his attendants;
and in the afternoon, the captain went to pay a visit to this
great man. So soon as he landed, Feenou came up to him.
He appeared to be about thirty years of age, and was re-
markably tall and thin; his features were more of the Euro-
pean cast than any we had seen in the Friendly isles. As
captain Cook perceived he was not the man whom he re-
membered to have seen during the former voyage in the cha-
racter of the king, after the first salutation, he questioned him
on that point; when Taipa, with great eagerness replied, that
he was the sovereign of no less than one hundred and fifty-
three islands. In a short time, our grand visiter accompa-
nied us on board, attended by five or six servants. Captain
Cook made them a few acceptable presents, and entertained
them in such a manner, as he thought would be most agree-
able. The captain accompanied them ashore in his own boat,
towards evening, when Feenou ordered three hogs to be
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
115
conveyed into the boat, as a return for the presents he had
received. At this time we were told of an accident, which
may tend to convey some idea of the unbounded authority
which the chiefs exercise over the inferior rank of people.
While Feenou was on board the Resolution, all the natives
were ordered, by an inferior chief, to retire from the post we
occupied. Some of them, however, having ventured to re-
turn, he beat them most unmercifully with a large stick.
One of them, in particular, received so violent a blow on the
side of his face, that the blood gushed from his mouth and
nostrils; and after lying motionless for some time, he was
removed from the place in convulsions. The person who
gave the blow, on being told that he certainly had killed the
man, only laughed at the circumstance; and, indeed, it was
very
evident that he did not grieve for what had happened.
We had afterwards the satisfaction of hearing that the poor
sufferer was out of danger.
The bottom where the Discovery lay, being very rocky
and uneven, captain Clerke determined to shift it farther to
the westward. The next day (May the 7th) he gave
orders
to weigh the stream anchor, and heave short upon the best
bower; but the united force of the whole ship's company was
not able to purchase it, the cable having got foul of a rock;
they waited till slack water, when the ships would tend to the
ebb tide, and probably clear it; but at eleven the cable parted.
The recovery of this cable caused an infinite deal of trouble,
as it had got in a hole between the rocks, and could only be
seen when the water was perfectly smooth; but at last, after a
number of unsuccessful trials, they were lucky enough to
weigh it. This day, and the next also, Feenou dined with
captain Cook, attended by Taipa, Toobou, and some other
chiefs. None but Taipa, however, was permitted to sit at
table, or even to eat in his presence. This etiquette greatly
pleased captain Cook; for before Feenou arrived, he had com-
monly more visiters than he inclined; as his table frequently
overflowed with people of both sexes. For the women of the
Friendly isles have the privilege of eating with the men,
which is not the case at Otaheite.
We had frequent occasion to observe the dexterity which
these people possess at pilfering: the very chiefs at times
practised a little. Having, before the arrival of Feenou, had
a large junk axe stolen out of the ship, which we could im-
pute to none but the natives, the captain complained to him,
and required he would use his authority to get it restored;
he immediately gave orders for that purpose, and before dir-
a

116
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ner was finished, it was brought us aboard: such was the ex-
plicit obedience paid to his commands. On the 9th of May
one of them was detected carrying out of the ship, the bolt
belonging to the spun-yarn winch, which he had carefully
concealed under his clothes. For this offence captain Cook
sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, and to be confined
till he paid a hog for his liberty. Though, after this circum-
stance, we were troubled with no more thieves of rank, their
servants or slaves were constantly employed in this dirty bu-
siness; and they received a flogging with as much seeming
indifference as if it had been on the main-mast. When any
of them were caught in the act of thieving, instead of inter-
ceding in their behalf, their masters would often advise us to
kill them. This being a punishment we were not fond of in-
flicting, they usually escaped without any kind of punishment:
they were alike insensible of the shame and torture of corpo-
ral chastisement. At length, however, captain Clerke con-
trived a mode of treatment, which we supposed had some
effect. Immediately upon detection, he ordered their heads to
be completely shaved, and thus pointed out as objects of ridi-
cule to their countrymen, and put our people upon their guard,
to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of
their thefts.
Feenou was so fond of our company, that he dined on board
every day, though he did not always partake of our fare. On
the 10th his servants brought him a mess, which had been
dressed on shore, consisting of fish, soup, and yams; cocoa-
nut liquor had been used instead of water, in which the fish
had been boiled or stewed, (perhaps in a wooden vessel with
hot stones) and it was carried on board on a plantain leaf.
Captain Cook tasted of the mess, and was so well pleased
with it, that he afterwards ordered some fish to be dressed in
the same way; but, though his cook succeeded tolerably well,
it was much inferior to the dish he attempted to imitate.
Having, in a great measure, exhausted the island of almost
every article of food, on Sunday the 11th of May, we re-
moved from the shore the observatories, horses, and other
things that we had landed; intending to sail as soon as the
Discovery should have found her best bower anchor. Fee-
nou hearing that the captain intended to proceed to Tonga-
taboo, earnestly intreated him to alter his plan; expressing as
much aversion to it, as if, by diverting him from it, he wish-
ed to promote some particular interest of his own. He
warmly recommended a group of islands called Hapaee, ly-
ing to the northeast; where, he assured us, we could be ea-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
117
a
sily and plentifully supplied with every refreshment: and even
offered to accompany us thither in person. In consequence
of his advice, Hapaee was made choice of; and as it had not
been visited by any European ships, the surveying it became
an object to captain Cook.
On Tuesday the 13th, captain Clerke's anchor was happily
recovered; and on the morning of the 14th we got under sail,
and left Annamooka.
Though this island is somewhat higher than the other
small islands that surround it, yet it is lower than Mangeea
and Wateeo; and even those are but of a moderate height.
The shore, where our ships lay, consists of a steep, rugged,
coral rock, about nine or ten feet high, except two sandy
beaches, which are defended from the sea by a reef of the
same sort of rock. In the centre of the island there is a salt-
water lake, about a mile and a half in breadth, round which
the ground rises with a gradual ascent, and we could not trace
its having any communication with the sea.
On the rising
parts of the island, and especially towards the sea, the soil is
either of a blackish loose mould, or a reddish clay; but there
is not a stream of fresh water to be found in any part of the
island.
The land here is well cultivated, except in a few places;
and, though some parts appear to lie waste, they are only left
to recover the strength exhausted by constant culture; for we
often saw the natives at work upon these spots, in order to
plant them again. Yams and plantains form their principal
plantations; many of which are very extensive, and inclosed
with fences of reed about six feet high. Fences of less com-
pass were often seen within these, surrounding the houses of
the principal people. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees are
interspersed without any regular order, but principally near
the habitations of the natives. The other parts of the island,
especially towards the sea, and round the lake, are covered
,
with luxuriant trees and bushes; among which there are a
great many mangroves and faitanoo trees. All the rocks and
stones about the island are coral, except in one place, to the
right of the sandy beach, where there is a rock of about twen-
ty-five feet in height, of a calcareous stone, and of a yellow-
ish colour; but, even here, some large pieces are to be seen
of the same coral rock as that which composes the shore.
We sometimes amused ourselves in walking up the coun-
try and shooting wild ducks, resembling our widgeon, which
are very numerous on the salt lake, as well as on the pool
where we procured our water. We found, in these excursi-

118
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ons, that the inhabitants frequently deserted their houses to
repair to the trading place, without entertaining the least sus-
picion that strangers would take away or destroy any pro-
perty that belonged to them. From this circumstance it
might be supposed, that most of the natives were sometimes
collected on the beach, and that there would be no great dif-
ficulty in forming an accurate computation of their number;
but the continual resort of visiters, from other islands, ren-
dered it impossible. However, as we never saw more than a
thousand persons collected at one time, it may be reasonably
supposed, that there are about twice that number
upon
the
island.
In the direct tract to Hapaee, whither we were now bound,
to the north and northeast of Annamooka, a great number
of small isles are seen. Amidst the rocks and shoals adjoin-
ing to this group, we were doubtful whether there was a
free passage for ships of such magnitude as ours, though the
natives sailed through the intervals in their canoes: therefore,
when we weighed anchor from Annamooka, we steered to
go to the westward of the above islands, and north north-
west towards Kao and Toofoa, two islands remarkable for
their
great height, and the most westerly of those in sight.
Feenou, with his attendants, remained in the Resolution till
about noon, and then entered the large sailing canoe, which
had brought him from Tongataboo, and stood in amongst
the cluster of islands, of which we were now abreast.
They are scattered, at unequal distances, and most of them
are as high as Annamooka. Some of them are two or three
miles in length, and others only half a mile. Many of them
have
steep rocky shores like Annamooka; some have reddish
cliffs; and others have sandy beaches, extending almost their
whole length. In general they are entirely clothed with
trees, among which are many cocoa palms, each having the
appearance of a beautiful garden placed in the sea. The serene
weather we now had contributed greatly to heighten the scene;
and the whole might convey an idea of the realization of
some fairy land. It appears that some of these islands have
been formed as Palmerston's island was supposed to have
been; for one of them is now entirely sand, and another has
but a single bush or tree upon it.
In the afternoon, about four o'clock, we steered to the
north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard. We intended
to have anchored for the night, but it arrived before we could
find a place in less than fifty fathoms water; and we rather
chose to spend the night under sail, than come to in such a
depth.
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
119
In the afternoon, we had been within two leagues of Too-
foa, and observed the smoke of it several times in the day.
There is a volcano upon it, of which the Friendly islanders
entertain some superstitious notions, and call it Kollofeea,
saying it is an Otooa, or divinity. We were informed that it
sometimes throws up very large stones, and the crater is com-
pared to the size of a small islet, which has not ceased smo-
king in the memory of the inhabitants; nor have they any
tradition that it ever did. We sometimes saw the smoke from
the centre of the island, even at Annamooka, the distance of
at least ten leagues. We were told that Toofoa was but thin-
ly inhabited, but that the water upon it was excellent.
At daybreak, on the 15th, we were not far from Koa,
which is a large rock of a conic figure; we steered to the pas-
sage between Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at
southeast. About ten o'clock Feenou came on board, and
.
continued with us all day. He brought with him a quantity
of fruit and two hogs; and in the course of the day, several
canoes came to barter quantities of the former article, which
was very acceptable to us, as our stock began to be low. At
noon, our latitude was 19° 49' 45' south, and we had made
seven miles of longitude from Annamooka. After having
passed Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks, and there be-
ing but little wind, it was attended with some difficulty to
keep clear of them. Having passed this reef, we hauled up
for Neeneva, a small low isle in the direction of east north-
east from Footoha, in hopes of finding an anchorage, but
were again disappointed; for notwithstanding we had land
in
every direction, the sea was unfathomable. We plainly
in the course of this night, flames issuing from the vol-
cano upon Toofoa. .
At daybreak on the 16th, we steered, with a gentle breeze
at southeast, for Hapaee, which was now in sight; and per-
ceived it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above
the water. At nine o'clock we saw it plainly forming three
islands, nearly equal in size; and soon after a fourth, appear-
ed to the southward of these, as large as any of the others.
Each of the islands appeared to be of a similar height and
appearance, and about six or seven miles in length. The
most northern of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the
third Lefooga, and the fourth Hoolaiva; but they are all four
included under the general name of Hapaee.
By sunset we got up with the northernmost of these isles,
where we experienced the same distress for want of anchor-
age that we did the two preceding evenings; having another
saw,

120
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
night to spend under sail, with land and breakers in
every
di-
rection. Feenou, who had been on board all day, went for-
ward to Hapaee in the evening, and took Omai with him in
the canoe. He was not unmindful of our disagreeable situ-
ation, and kept up a good fire the whole night, by way of a
landmark.
At the return of day-light, on the 17th, being then close
in with Foa, we perceived it was joined to Haanno, by a
reef running from one island to the other, even with the sur-
face of the sea. Captain Cook dispatched a boat to look for
anchorage; and a proper place was found, abreast of the reef
which joins Lefooga to Foa, having twenty-four fathoms
depth of water. In this station, the northern point of Ha-
paee
bore north 16° east. We were not above three quarters
of a mile from the shore; and, as we lay before a creek in the
reef, it was convenient landing at all times.
As soon as we had anchored, we were surrounded by a
multitude of canoes, and our ships were presently filled with
the natives. They brought with them hogs, fowls, fruit, and
roots, which they exchanged for cloth, knives, beads, nails,
and hatchets. Feenou and Omai having come on board,
early in the morning, in order to introduce captain Cook to
the people of the island, he soon accompanied them on shore
for that purpose.
The chief conducted the captain to a hut situated close to
the sea-beach, which was brought thither but a few minutes
before for his reception. In this, Feenou, Omai, and captain
Cook, were seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, ap-
peared fronting them on the outside; and they also seated
themselves. Captain Cook being asked how long he intended
to stay, answered five days. Taipa was, therefore, ordered
to sit by him, and declare this to the people. He then ha-
rangued them in words nearly to the following purport, as
we afterwards were informed by Omai. He exhorted both
old and young, to look upon captain Cook as a friend who
meant to continue with them a few days; and that, during his
stay among them, they would not steal any thing from him,
or offend him in any other manner. He informed them, that
it was expected they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c.
to the ships; for which they would receive in exchange, such
articles as he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had delivered
his address to the assembly, Feenou left them; on which cap-
tain Cook was informed by Taipa, that it was necessary he
should make a present to Earoupa, the chief of the island.
The captain being not unprepared for this, gave him such

Plate 7
E Shalias for
05
OF
The RECEPTION of CAPTAIN COOK, in HAPJEE
hier



Plate &
CAN
Shallas so
UNIK
OF
A BOXING-MATCH in ILAPAEE.
PICH

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
121
articles as far exceeded his expectation. This liberality crea-
ted similar demands from two chiefs of other isles who were
present, and even from Taipa himself. Soon after he had
made the last of these presents, Feenou returned, and express-
ed his displeasure with Taipa for suffering me to be so lavish
of my favours.
favours. But this
But this was, doubtless, a finesse, as he cer-
tainly acted in concert with the others.
Feenou now resumed his seat, ordering Earoupa to sit by
him, and harangue the people as Taipa had done, which he
did nearly to the same purpose. These ceremonies over, the
chief, at the captain's request, conducted him to three stag-
nant pools of what he called fresh water; in one of which the
water was indeed tolerable, and the situation convenient for
filling our casks. On his return to his former station he found
a baked hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be con-
veyed on board for his dinner. He invited Feenou and his
friends to partake of the repast, and they embarked for the
ship, though none but himself sat down with us at table.
Dinner being over the captain conducted them on shore; and,
before he returned, received, as a present from the chief, a
fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. We had a plentiful
supply of provisions, for in the course of the day, we got, by
bartering with the natives, about twenty small hogs, together
with a large quantity of fruit and roots.
On Sunday the 18th, early in the morning, Feenou and
Omai, who now slept on shore with the chief, came on board,
to request captain Cook's presence upon the island. He ac-
companied them, and upon landing, was conducted to the
place where he had been seated the preceding day, and where
he beheld a large concourse of people already assembled.
Though he imagined that something extraordinary was in
agitation, yet he could not conjecture what, nor could Omai
give him any information.
Soon after he was seated, about an hundred of the natives
appeared, and advanced, laden with yams, plantains, bread-
fruit, cocoa-nuts, and sugar canes; their burdens were depo-
sited on our left. A number of others arrived soon after,
bearing the same kind of articles, which were collected into
two piles on the right side. To these were fastened two pigs,
and half a dozen fowls; and to those upon the left, six pigs
and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself before the articles
on the left side, and another chief before those on the right;
they being it was supposed, the two chiefs who had procured
them by order of Feenou, who was as implicitly obeyed here,
Q
VOL. I.

122
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
as he had been at Annamooka, and who had probably laid this
tax upon the chiefs of Hapaee for the present occasion.
When this munificent collection of provisions was placed
in order, and advantageously disposed, the bearers of it join-
ed the multitude, who formed a circle round the whole. Im-
mediately after, a number of men, armed with clubs, entered
this circle or area; where they paraded about for a few mi-
nutes, and then one half of them retired to one side, and the
other half to the other side, seating themselves before the
spectators. Presently after, they successively entertained us
with single combats; one champion from one side challenging
those of the other side, partly by words, but more by ex-
pressive gestures, to send one of their party to oppose him.
The challenge was in general accepted; the two combatants
placed themselves in proper attitudes, and the engagement
began, which continued till one of them yielded, or till their
weapons were broken. At the conclusion of each combat, the
victor squatted himself down before the chief, then immedi-
ately rose up and retired. Some old men, who seemed to
preside as judges, gave their plaudit in a very few words;
and the multitude, especially those on the side of the conque-
ror, celebrated the glory he had acquired in two or three
loud huzzas.
This entertainment was sometimes suspended for a short
space, and the intervals of time were filled up with wrestling
,
and boxing matches. The first were performed in the method
practised at Otaheite, and the second differed very little
from the English manner. A couple of stout wenches next
stepped forth, and without ceremony, began boxing with as
much dexterity as the men. This contest, however, was but
of short duration; for in the space of half a minute, one of
The victorious heroine was applauded by
the spectators in the same manner as the successful combat-
ants of the other sex. Though we expressed some disappro-
bation at this part of the entertainment, it did not hinder two
other females from entering the lists, who seemed to be spi-
rited girls, and, if two old women had not interposed to part
them, would probably have given each other a good drubbing.
At least three thousand spectators were present when these
combats were exhibited, and every thing was conducted with
the most perfect good humour on all sides; though some of
the champions, of both sexes, received blows which they
must have felt the effect of for some time after. The diver-
sions being finished, the chief informed captain Cook that the
provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai; and
a
it
up.
them gave

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
A :
123
that those on our left (making about two thirds of the whole
quantity) were intended for him, and that he might suit
his own convenience in taking them on board.
Four boats were loaded with the munificence of Feenou,
whose favours far exceeded any that captain Cook had ever re-
ceived from the sovereigns of any of the islands which he
had visited in the Pacific ocean. He, therefore, embraced the
first opportunity of convincing Feenou that he was not insen-
sible of his liberality, by bestowing upon him such commodi-
ties as he supposed were most valuable in his estimation.
Feenou was so highly pleased with the return that was made
him, that he left the captain still indebted to him, by sending
him two large hogs, some yams, and a considerable quantity
of cloth.
Feenou having expressed a desire to see the marines per-
form their exercise, captain Cook ordered them all ashore on
the morning of the 20th of May. After they had
.
gone
through various evolutions, and fired several vollies, which
seemed to give pleasure to our numerous spectators, the
chief, in his turn, entertained us with an exhibition, which
was performed with an exactness and dexterity, far surpass-
ing what they had seen of our military maneuvres. It was a
kind of dance, performed by men, in which one hundred and five
persons were engaged; each having an instrument in his hands,
resembling a paddle, two feet and a half long, with a thin
blade and a small handle. With these instruments various
flourishes were made, each of which was accompanied with
a different movement, or a different attitude of the body. At
first, the dancers ranged themselves in three lines, and so
changed their stations by different evolutions, that those who
had been in the rear came into the front. At one part of the
performance they extended themselves in one line; afterwards
they formed themselves into a semi-circle, and then into two
square columns.
During the last movement, one of them
came forward and performed an antic dance before captain
Cook, with which the entertainment ended.
The music that accompanied the dance was produced by
two drums, or rather hollow logs of wood, from which they
forced some varied notes by beating on them with two sticks.
The dancers, however, did not appear to be much assisted or
directed by these sounds; but by a chorus of vocal music, in
which all the performers joined. Their song was rather melodi-
ous, and their corresponding motions were so skilfully execu-
ted, that the whole body of dancers appeared as one regu-
lar machine. Such a performance would have been applauded
a

124
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
not
even on an European theatre. It far exceeded any attempt
that we had made to entertain them; insomuch, that they
seemed to plume themselves on their superiority over us.
They esteemed none of our musical instruments except the
drum, and even thought that inferior to their own. They
held our French horns in the highest contempt, and would
pay
the smallest attention to them either here or at any
other of the islands.
To give them a more favourable opinion of the amusements
and superior attainments of the English, captain Cook order-
ed some fire-works to be prepared; and, after it was dark, ex-
hibited them in the presence of Feenou and a vast multitude
of people. They were highly entertained with the perform-
ance in general; but our water and sky-rockets, in particular,
astonished them beyond all conception. They now admitted
that the scale was turned in our favour.
This, however, only served as an additional stimulus to
urge them to proceed to fresh exertions of their singular dex-
terity. As soon as our fire-works were ended, a succession
of dances, which Feenou had prepared for our entertainment,
began. A band of music, or chorus, consisting of eighteen
men, seated themselves before us, in the centre of a circle
formed by the numerous spectators. About four or five of
the performers had each pieces of large bamboo, from three
to six feet in length, each played on by one man, who held it
almost vertically; the upper end of which was open, but the
other closed by one of the joints. They kept constantly stri-
king the ground, though slowly, with the close end, and thus
produced a variety of notes, according to the different lengths
of the instruments, but all were of the bass, or hollow kind;
which was counteracted by a person who struck nimbly a
piece of the same substance, split, and lying upon the ground;
furnishing a tone as acute as the others were grave and
lemn. The whole of the band (including those who perform-
ed
upon the bamboos) sung a slow soft air, which so finely
tempered the harsher notes of the instruments, that the most
perfect judge of the modulation of sweet sounds could not
avoid confessing the vast power, and pleasing effect, of this
simple harmony.
The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour,
twenty women entered the circle. Most of them had upon
their heads garlands of the crimson flowers of the China
rose, or others; and many of them had ornamented their
sons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of nicety
about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turn-
SO-
per-

Plato
AR
059
935
w
see
M
OF
UNIL
A NIGHT DANCE by WOMEN in HAPAEE.


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
125
a
ing their faces towards it, and began by singing a soft air, to
which responses were made by the chorus in the same tone;
and these were repeated alternately. All this while, the wo-
men accompanied their song with several very graceful mo-
tions of their hands towards their faces, and in other direc-
tions at the same time, making constantly a step forward,
and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fix-
ed. They then turned their faces to the assembly, sung some
time, and retreated slowly in a body, to that part of the cir-
cle which was opposite the hut where the principal specta-
tors sat. After this, one of them advanced from each side,
meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing
their progress round, till they came to the rest. On which,
two advanced from each side, two of whom also passed each
other, and returned as the former; but the other two remain-
ed, and to these came one, from each side, by intervals, till
the whole number had again formed a circle about the chorus.
Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker
measure, in which they made a kind of half turn by leaping,
and clapping their hands, and snapped their fingers, repeat-
ing some words in conjunction with the chorus. Toward the
end, as the quickness of the music increased, their gestures
and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexte-
rity; and some of their motions, perhaps, would, with us,
be
reckoned rather indecent; though this part of the perform-
ance, most probably, was not meant to convey any wanton
ideas, but merely to display the astonishing variety of their
movements.
To this grand female ballet, succeeded a variety of other
dances, in which the men bore a principal part. In some of
these, the dancers increased their motions to a prodigious
quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder,
with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight,
would suppose they ran a risk of dislocating their necks.
Their discipline was admirable, and in no instance was more
remarkable than in the sudden transitions they so dexterous-
ly made, from the ruder exertions and harsh sounds, to the
softest airs and most gentle movements.* The place where
* The editor here inserts a note, in which he gives an extract from the
« Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses," to show the near resemblance between
the songs and dances of the Caroline islanders, at an immense distance in
the North Pacific ocean, and those of the Friendly islanders, and other in-
habitants of the Southern Pacific; whence he deduces the idea of their be-
ing all derived from one common stock. We shall bere, once for all, ob-
serve, that various other extracts from these Letters are interspersed, to
show the same conformity in language, religion, manners, &c. &c.

126
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
these dances were performed, was an open space among the
trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed
round the inside of the circle.
This dance being ended, after a considerable interval, twelve
other men advanced, placing themselves in double rows,
fronting each other. On one side was stationed a kind of
prompter, who repeated several sentences, to which
responses
were made by the performers and the chorus. They sung
and danced slowly; and gradually grew quicker, like those
whom they had succeeded.
The next who exhibited themselves were nine women, who
sat down opposite the hut where the chief had placed him-
self. A man immediately rose, and gave the first of these
women a blow on the back with both his fists joined. He
treated the second and third in the same manner; but when
he came to the fourth, he struck her upon the breast. Upon
seeing this, a person instantly rising up from among the
crowd, knocked him down with a blow on the head, and he
was quietly carried away. But this did not excuse the other
five women from so extraordinary a discipline; for they were
treated in the same manner by a person who succeeded him.
When these nine women danced, their performance was twice
disapproved of, and they were obliged to repeat it again.
There was no great difference between this dance and that of
the first women, except that these sometimes raised the body
upon one leg, and then upon the other, alternately, by a sort
of double motion.
Soon after, a person unexpectedly entered, making some
ludicrous remarks on the fire-works that had been exhibited,
which extorted a burst of laughter from the crowd. We had
then a dance by the attendants of Feenou; they formed a
double circle of twenty-four each, round the chorus, and
joined in a gentle soothing song, accompanied with the mo-
tions of the head and hands. They also began with slow
movements, which gradually became more and more rapid,
and finally closed with several very ingenious transpositions
of the two circles.
The two last dances were universally approved by all the
spectators. They were perfectly in time, and some of their
gestures were so expressive, that it might justly be said, they
spoke the language that accompanied them. Though the
concourse of people was pretty large, their number was much
inferior to that assembled in the forenoon, when the marines
performed their exercise. At that time many of our gentle-
men supposed there might be present five thousand persons,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
127
or upwards; but captain Cook supposes that to be rather an
exaggerated account.
The next day, which was the 21st of May, captain Cook
made an excursion into the island of Lefooga, on foot, which
he found to be, in some respects, superior to Annamooka, the
plantations being not only more numerous, but also more ex-
tensive. Many parts of the country, near the sea, are still
waste, owing perhaps to the sandiness of the soil; but in the
internal parts of the island, the soil is better; and the marks
of considerable population, and of an improved state of cul-
tivation, are very conspicuous. Many of the plantations are
inclosed in such a manner, that the fences, running parallel
to each other, form spacious public roads. Large spots, co-
vered with the paper mulberry-trees, were observed; and the
plantations in general, were abundantly stocked with such
plants and fruit-trees as the island produces. To these the
commodore made some addition, by sowing the seeds of
melons, pumpkins, Indian corn, &c. At one place was a
house, about four times as large as the ordinary ones,
with
an extensive area of grass before it, to which the people pro-
bably resort on some public occasions. Near the landing-
place we observed a mount, two or three feet high, on which
stood four or five little huts, wherein the bodies of some
persons of distinction had been interred. The island is but
seven miles in length; and its breadth, in some places, is not
above three miles. The east side has a reef, projecting con-
siderably, against which the sea breaks with great violence.
It is a continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa,
which is but half a mile distant; and, at low water, the na-
tives can walk upon this reef from one island to the other.
The shore is either a sandy-beach or a coral rock.
When the captain returned from his excursion, and went
on board, he found a large sailing canoe fastened to the stern
of the Resolution. In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom
the commodore had seen, during his last voyage, at Tonga-
taboo, and who was then supposed by him to be the king of
that island.* He could not be prevailed upon to come on
board, but continued sitting in his canoe with an air of un-
common gravity. The islanders called him Areekee, which
signifies king; a title which we had not heard any of them
give to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them
* In captain Cook's narrative of that voyage, the name of this chief is
said to be Koha-gee-too Fallangou, which is totally different from Latoo-
liboula. This may perhaps be accounted for by supposing one to be the
name of the person, and the other the description of his rank or title.
a

128
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
had appeared to be. Latooliboula remained under the stern
till the evening, and then departed. Feenou was on board
the Resolution at that time, but neither of these chiefs took
the smallest notice of the other.
The next day, some of the natives stealing a tarpaulin and
other things, captain Cook applied to Feenou, desiring him
to exert his authority, for the purpose of getting them re-
stored; but this application was of no effect. On the 23d, as
we were preparing to leave the island, Feenou and his prime-
minister Taipa, came along-side in a canoe, and informed us
that they were going to Vavaoo, an island situate, as they
said, about two days sailing to the northward of Hapaee.
They assured us, that the object of their voyage was to pro-
cure for us an additional supply of hogs, besides some red-
feathered
caps for Omai to carry with him to Otaheite; and
desired us not to sail till their return, which would be in four
or five days; after which, Feenou would accompany us to
Tongataboo. Captain Cook consented to wait the return of
this chief, who immediately set out for Vavaoo. On the 24th,
a report was industriously spread about by some of the
islanders, that a ship resembling ours had arrived at Anna-
mooka since we left it, and was now at anchor there. It was
also reported that Toobou, the chief of that island, was has-
tening thither to receive these new visiters. After inquiry,
however, it appeared that this report was totally void of
foundation. It is difficult to conjecture, what purpose the
invention of this tale could answer, unless we suppose it was
contrived with a view of getting us removed from one island
to the other.
On Sunday the 25th, captain Cook went into a house where
a woman was dressing the eyes of a child, who seemed blind.
The instruments used by this female oculist were two sien-
der wooden probes, with which she brushed the eyes so as to
make them bleed. In the same house he found another wo-
man shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth, stuck into
the end of a stick: she first wetted the hair with a rag dipped
in water, and then making use of her instrument, took off the
hair as close as if a razor had been employed. Captain Cook
soon after tried upon himself one of these remarkable instru-
ments, which he found to be an excellent substitute. The
natives of these islands, however, have a different method of
shaving their beards, which operation they perform with two
shells; one of which they place under a part of the beard, and
with the other, applied above, they scrape, off that part: in
this manner they can shave very close, though the process is
a
a

Plate 70.
Shallus se.
SIDE
SEET
POULAELO, KING of the TRZENDLY ISTANDS.
AN OPPOSSUM see VOL. I. page 65.
ICH
Os
UNIE


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
129
rather tedious. There are among them some men who seem
to profess this trade: for it was as common for our sailors to
go ashore to have their beards scraped off after the mode of
Hapaee, as it was for their chiefs to come on board to be
shaved by our barbers.
Captain Cook finding little or nothing of what the island pro-
duced was now brought to the ships, determined to change his
station, and to wait Feenou's return in some other anchoring
place, where we might still meet with refreshments. We ac-
cordingly, on the 26th, made sail to the southward along the
reef of the island, and having passed several shoals, hauled
into a bay, that lies between the north end of Hoolaiva, and
the south of Lefooga, and there anchored. We had no sooner
cast anchor, than Mr. Bligh, master of the Resolution, was
sent to sound the bay where we were now stationed; and
captain Cook, accompanied by lieutenant Gore, landed on the
southern part of Lefooga, to look for fresh water, and exam-
ine the country. On the west side of the island, they observ-
ed an artificial mount of considerable antiquity, about forty
feet high, and measuring about fifty feet in the diameter of
its summit. At the bottom of this mount was a stone four-
teen feet high, two and a half thick, and four broad, hewn
out of coral rock; and they were informed by the islanders,
that not more than half its length was seen above ground.
They called it Tangata Areekee;* and he said it had been
set up, and the mount raised, in memory of one of their
kings. On the approach of night, the captain and Mr. Gore
returned on board, and Mr. Bligh came back from sounding
the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms
water, with a bottom principally of sand.
Lefooga and Hoolaiva are separated from each other by a
reef of coral rocks, dry at low water. Some of our gentle-
men, who landed in the last mentioned island, found not the
smallest mark of cultivation, or habitation upon it, except a
single hut, in which a man employed to catch fish and turtle
resided. It is remarkable that it should remain in this deso-
late condition, since it communicates so immediately with
Lefooga, which is so well cultivated. The west side of it
has a bending, where there seems to be good anchorage; and
the east side has a reef, as well as Lefooga. Uninhabited as
Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount has been raised upon it, equal
in height to some of the surrounding trees.
* Tangata, in the language of these people is man; Areelee, king.
VOL. I.
R

130
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
On Tuesday the 27th, at break of day, the commodore
made the signal to weigh; and as he intended to attempt, in
his way to Tongataboo, a passage to Annamooka, by the
southwest, among the intermediate isles, he sent Mr. Bligh
in a boat to sound before the ships. But before we got under
sail, the wind became so variable and unsettled, as to render
it unsafe to attempt a passage with which we were so little
acquainted; we therefore lay fast and made the signal for the
master to return.
Captain Cook had now an opportunity of discovering that
Feenou was not the king of the Friendly Islands, but only a
subordinate chief:* for that title, it appeared, belonged to
Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, whose residence was at Tongataboo,
and who now came under the stern of the Resolution, in a
large sailing canoe. It being my interest,' says the captain,
as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men,
without inquiring into the validity of their assumed titles, I
invited Poulaho on board, as I understood he was very de-
sirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome guest; for he
brought with him as a present to me, two good fat hogs;
though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give
weight in rank or power, he was certainly the most eminent
man in that respect we had seen; for, though not very tall he
was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless with corpulence.
He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair,
and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk
of the people.'
Poulaho appeared to be a sedate sensible man. After he
had seen every object on deck, and asked many pertinent
questions, the captain desired him to walk down into the
cabin. To this some of his attendants objected; observing,
that if he were to do so, it must happen, that people would
* By a prudent regulation in their government,' says captain Cook,
the natives have an officer over the police, or something like it. This
department, when we were amongst them, was administered by Feenou;
whose business, we were told it was, to punish all offenders, whether against
the state, or against individuals. He was also generalissimo, and com-
manded the warriors, when called out upon service; but, by all accounts
this is very seldom. The king frequently took some pains to inform us of
Feenou's office; and, among other things, told us that if he himself should
become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I understood by this
expression of being a bad man, was, that if he did not govern according
to law or custom, Feenou would be ordered, by the other great men, or by
the people at large, to put him to death. There should seem to be no
doubt, that a sovereign, thus liable to be controlled, and punished for an
abuse of power, cannot be called a despotic monarch.'

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
131
а
walk over his head, which could not be permitted. To ob-
viate this, the captain gave them to understand, that no one
should presume to walk on that part of the deck which was
over the cabin. Whether this would have satisfied them was
far from appearing; but the king himself, less scrupulous,
waved all ceremony, and walked down without any stipula-
tion. He sat down with them to dinner; but eat little, and
drank less. When he arose from the table, he desired the
captain to accompany him ashore. Omai was asked to be of
the party; but he had formed the closest connexion with
Feenou, with whom (as the strongest proof of it) he had ex-
changed names, and he was too faithfully attached to him,
to show any attention to his competitor. He, therefore, ex-
cused himself. The captain, in his own boat, attended the
king ashore; having first made him presents that surpassed
his expectations; in return for which, Poulaho ordered two
more hogs to be sent on board. The chief was then carried
out of the boat by his own subjects, on a board resembling
a handbarrow, and immediately seated himself in a small
house near the shore. He placed the captain at his side; and
his attendants formed a semicircle before them, on the out-
side of the house. An old woman sat close to the chief, with
a kind of fan in her hand, to prevent his being incommoded
by the flies. The various articles which his people had pro-
cured by trading on board the ships, being now displayed
before him, he attentively looked over them all, inquired
what they had given in exchange, and at length ordered every
thing to be returned to the respective owners, except a glass
bowl, which he reserved for himself. Those who brought
these things to him, first squatted themselves down before
him, then deposited their purchases, and instantly rose and
retired. They observed the same ceremony in taking them
away; and not one of them presumed to speak to him stand-
ing. His attendants, just before they left him, paid him obei-
sance, by bowing their heads down to the sole of his foot,
and touching it with the upper and under side of the fingers
of each hand. Captain Cook was charmed with the decorum
that was maintained on this occasion, having scarce seen the
like any where, even among the more civilized nations, .
When the captain arrived on board, he found the master
returned from his expedition, who informed him, that as far
as he had proceeded, there was a passage for the ships, and
tolerable anchorage; but that towards the south and south-
east, he observed numerous shoals, breakers, and small isles.
In consequence of this report, we relinquished all thoughts

132
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
of a passage
that
way; and being resolved to return to Anna-
mooka by the same route which we had so lately experienced
to be a safe one, we should have sailed the next morning,
which was the 28th, if the wind had not been unsettled. Pou-
laho came early on board, bringing a red-feathered cap as a
present to captain Cook. These caps were greatly sought af-
ter by us, as we knew they would be highly valued at Ota-
heite: but not one was ever brought for sale, though very
large prices were offered; nor could a person in either ship
make himself the proprietor of one, except the two captains
and Omai. They are composed of the tail-feathers of the
.
tropic bird, intermixed with the red feathers of the parroquet;
and are made in such a manner as to tie on the forehead
without any crown, and have the form of a semicircle, whose
radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But the best idea of
them will be conveyed by Mr. Webber's representation of
Poulaho, ornamented with one of these caps or bonnets. The
chief left the ship in the evening; but his brother, whose name
also was Futafaihe, and some of his attendants, remained all
night on board.
On the 29th, at day-break, we weighed with a fine breeze
at east-north-east, and made sail to the westward, followed
by several sailing canoes, in one of which was Poulaho the
king, who getting on board the Resolution, inquired for his
brother, and the others who had continued with us all night.
We now found that they had stayed without his permission,
for he gave them such a reprimand as brought tears from
their eyes: however, he was soon reconciled to their making
:
a longer stay; for on his departure from the ship, he left his
brother and five attendants on board. We were also honour-
ed with the company of a chief named Tooboueitoa, just then
arrived from Tongataboo; who, as soon as he came, sent
away
his canoe, declaring that he and five others who came
with him, would sleep on board; so that captain Cook now
had his cabin filled with visiters. This inconvenience he the
more willingly endured, as they brought with them plenty of
provisions as presents to him, for which they met with suita-
ble returns.
In the afternoon the easterly wind was succeeded by a fresh
breeze at south-south-east. Our course being now south-
south-west, we were obliged to ply to windward, and barely
fetched the northern side of Footooha by eight o'clock in the
evening. The next day we plied up to Lofanga, and got
soundings under the lee or northwest side, in forty fathoms
water; but the bottom being rocky, and a chain of breakers
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
133
lying to leeward, we stretched away for Kotoo, expecting tu
find better anchorage there. It was dark before we reached
that island, where finding no convenient place to anchor in,
we passed the night in making short boards. On the 31st,
at day-break, we stood for the channel which is between
Kotoo and the reef of rocks lying to the westward of it; but
on our approach we found the wind insufficient to lead us
through. We therefore bore up on the outside of the reef,
and stretched to the southwest till near twelve o'clock, when
perceiving that we made no progress to windward, and be-
ing apprehensive of losing the islands while we had so many
of the natives on board, we tacked and stood back, and spent
the night between Footooha and Kotoo. The wind now blew
fresh, with squalls and rain; and during the night, the Reso-
lution, by a small change of the wind, fetching too far to the
windward, was very near running full upon a low sandy isle,
named Pootoo Pootooa, encompassed with breakers. Our
people having fortunately been just ordered upon deck, to
put the ship about, and most of them being at their respec-
tive stations, the necessary movements were performed with
judgment and alertness; and this alone preserved us from
destruction. The Discovery being astern, incurred no danger.
This narrow escape so alarmed the natives who were on
board, that they were eagerly desirous of getting ashore: ac-
cordingly, on the return of day-light, a boat was hoisted out,
and the officer who commanded her was ordered, after land-
ing them at Kotoo, to sound for anchorage along the reef that
projects from that island. During the absence of the boat,
we endeavoured to turn the ships through the channel be-
tween the reef of Kotoo and the sandy isle; but meeting with
a strong current against us, we were obliged to desist, and
cast anchor in fifty fathoms water, the sandy isle bearing east
by north, about the distance of one mile. Here we remained
till the 4th of June, being frequently visited by the king, by
Tooboueitoa, and by people who came from the neighbour-
ing islands to traffic with us. Mr. Bligh was, in the mean-
time, dispatched to sound the channels between the islands
situate to the eastward; and captain Cook himself landed on
Kotoo, to take a survey of it. This island, on account of
the coral reefs that environ it, is scarcely accessible by boats.
Its northwest end is low; but it rises suddenly in the middle,
and terminates at the southeast end in reddish clayey cliffs.
It produces the same fruits and roots with the adjacent
islands, and is tolerably cultivated, though thinly inhabited.
It is about two miles in length. While the commodore was

134
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
walking all over it, our people were occupied in cutting grass
for the cattle; and we planted some melon seeds. On our
return to the boat, we passed by some ponds of dirty brack-
ish water, and saw a burying place, which was considerably
neater than those of Hapaee,
We weighed in the morning of the 4th, and with a fresh
gale at east-southeast, made sail towards Annamooka, where
we anchored the next morning, nearly in the same station
which we had so lately occupied. Captain Cook soon after
went on shore, and found the islanders very busy in their
plantations, digging up yams for traffic. In the course of the
day, about two hundred of them assembled on the beach, and
traded with great eagerness. It appeared that they had been
very diligent during our absence, in cultivating; for we now
observed several large plantain fields, in places which in our
late visit, we had seen laying waste. The yams were now
in the highest perfection; and we obtained a good quantity
of them in exchange for iron. Before the captain returned on
board, he visited the several places where he had sown melon
and cucumber seeds; but found, to his great regret, that most
of them had been destroyed by vermin; though some pine-
apple plants, which he had also left, were in a thriving con-
dition.
On Friday the 6th, about noon, Feenou arrived from Va-
vaoo,
and informed us that several canoes, laden with hogs
and other provisions, had sailed with him from that island,
but had been lost in the late tempestuous weather, and every
person on board of them had perished. This melancholy tale
did not gain much credit with us, as we were by this time
sufficiently acquainted with the character of the relater. The
truth perhaps was, that he had been unable to procure at
Vavàoo the expected supplies; or if he had obtained any
there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way
back, and where he must have heard that Poulaho had come
to visit us: who, therefore, he knew would, as his superior,
reap all the merit and reward of procuring these supplies,
without having had any participation of the trouble. The in-
vention, however, of this loss at sea was not ill imagined, for
we had lately had very stormy weather. On the succeeding
morning, Poulaho and some other chiefs arrived; at which
time captain Cook happened to be ashore with Feenou, who
now appeared to be sensible of the impropriety of his con-
duct, in arrogating a character which he had no just claim
to; for he not only acknowledged Poulaho as sovereign of
Tongataboo and the adjacent isles, but affected to insist much

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
135
sence.
a
on it. The captain left him and went to pay a visit to the
king, whom he found sitting with a few of the natives before
him, but great numbers hastening to pay their respects to
him, the circle increased very fast. When Feenou approach-
ed, he placed himself among the rest that sat before Poulaho
as attendants on his majesty. He at first seemed to be some-
what confused and abashed; but soon recovered from his agi-
tation. Some conversation passed between these two chiefs,
who went on board with the captain to dinner; but only Pou-
laho sat at table. Feenou, after having made his obeisance
in the usual mode, by saluting the foot of his sovereign with
his head and hands, retired from the cabin; and it now ap-
peared that he could neither eat nor drink in the king's pre-
On the 8th, we weighed anchor, and steered for Tongata-
boo, with a gentle breeze at northeast. We were accompa-
nied by fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels belonging to the
islanders, every one of which outran the ships. The royal
canoe was distinguished from the rest by a small bundle of
grass, of a red colour, fastened to the end of a pole, and fix-
,
ed in the stern of the canoe in the same manner as our ensign
staffs. At five in the afternoon we descried two small islands
at the distance of four leagues to the westward; one was
called Hoonga Hapaee, and the other Hoonga Tonga. They
are situated in the latitude of 20° 36' south, about ten leagues
from the western point of Annamooka. According to the
information of two islanders who had been sent on board by
Feenou as pilots, only five men resided on Hoonga Hapaee,
and Hoonga Tonga had no inhabitants. We still proceeded on
a southwest course, and on the 9th saw several little islands,
beyond which Eooa and Tongataboo appeared. We had
.
at this time twenty-five fathoms water, the bottom consisted
of broken coral and sand, and the depth gradually decreased
as we approached the above-mentioned small isles. Steering
by the direction of our pilots, for the widest space between
those isles, we were insensibly drawn upon a large flat, on
which lay innumerable rocks of coral, below the surface of
the sea. Notwithstanding our utmost care and attention to
avoid these rocks, we were unable to prevent the ship from
striking on one of them: nor did the Discovery, though be-
hind us, keep clear of them. It fortunately happened that
neither of the ships stuck fast, nor sustained any damage.
We still continued our course, and the moment we found a
place where we could anchor with any degree of safety, we
came to; and the masters were dispatched with the boats to

136
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
sound. Soon after we had cast anchor, several of the natives
of Tongataboo came to us in their canoes; and they, as well
as our pilots, assured us that we should meet with deep wa-
ter further in, free from rocks. Their intelligence was true;
for about four o'clock the boats made a signal of having
found good anchoring ground. We therefore weighed and
stood in till dark, when we anchored in nine fathoms water,
with a clear sandy bottom. During the night we had some
rain; but early in the morning, the wind becoming southerly,
and bringing on fair weather, we weighed again, and worked
towards the shore of Tongataboo. While we were plying up
to the harbour, the king continued sailing round us in his
canoe; and at the same time there was a great number of
small canoes about the ships. Two of these not getting out
of the way of his royal vessel, he ran quite over them with
the greatest unconcern. Among those who came on board
the Resolution, was Otago, who had been so useful to cap-
tain Cook when he visited Tongataboo in his last voyage;
and one Toobou, who had at that time, attached himself to
captain Furneaux. Each of them brought some yams and a
hog, in testimony of friendship; for which they received a
suitable return.
We arrived at our intended station about two o'clock in
the afternoon of the 10th of June. It was a very convenient
place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo on the southeast,
and two little isles on the east and northeast. Here both our
ships anchored over a sandy bottom, where the depth of wa-
ter was ten fathoms. Our distance from the shore exceeded
a quarter of a mile.
We had not long been at anchor off Tongataboo, when cap-
tain Cook landed on the island accompanied by some of the
officers and Omai. They found the king waiting for them on
the beach, who conducted them to a small neat house near
the woods, with an extensive area before it, and told the cap-
tain that it was at his service during his continuance on the
island. Before they had been long in the house, a large cir-
ele of the natives assembled before them, and seated them-
selves the area. A root of the kava plant being brought
to the king, he commanded it to be split in pieces, and distri-
buted to several people, of both sexes, who began to chew
it, and soon prepared a bowl of their favourite liquor. Mean-
while, a baked hog, and a quantity of baked yams were pro-
duced, and divided into ten portions. These shares were
given to some of those who were present, except one,
which
remained undisposed of, and which was probably reserved
a
upon the

Plate 11.
Tholl Sc.
TL
POULAHO, KING of the FRIENDLY ISLANDS, DRINKING KAVA.
JO


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
137
for the king himself. The liquor was next served out; and
the first cup being brought to his majesty, he ordered it to
be given to a person who sat near him: the second was also
brought to him, which he kept; the third was given to cap-
tain Cook; but their mode of preparing the liquor having
given him a distaste for it, it was brought to Omai. The
remainder of it was distributed to different people; and one
of the cups being carried to Poulaho's brother, he retired
with this, and with his share of provisions. Some others
also withdrew from the circle with their portions, because
they could neither eat nor drink in his majesty's presence:
but there were others of an inferior rank, of both sexes, who
both eat and drank before him. Soon afterwards the
greater
part
of them went away, carrying with them what they had
not ate of their share of the feast. It is worthy of remark,
that the servants who distributed the meat and the kuva, de-
livered it sitting, not only to the king, but to the others.
Captain Cook, before he returned on board, went in search
of a watering-place, and was conducted to some ponds, in
one of which the water was tolerable, but it was at some dis-
tance inland. Being informed that the small island of Pan-
gimodoo, near which the ships were stationed, could better
supply this important article, he went over to it the next
morning, and found there a pool containing fresher water
than
any he had met with among these islands. This pool
being extremely dirty, he caused it to be cleaned; and here
it was that we filled our water-casks. The same morning a
tent was pitched near the house which the king had assigned
for our use. The horses, cattle, and sheep, were then land-
ed, and a party of marines stationed there as a guard. The
observatory was set up at an inconsiderable distance from
the other tent; and Mr. King took up his residence on shore
to direct the observations, and superintend all other neces-
sary business. A party was occupied in cutting wood for
fuel
, and planks for the ships: and the gunners were appoint-
ed to conduct the traffic with the inhabitants, who flocked
from all parts of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and
other articles, insomuch that our land station resembled a
fair, and our ships were remarkably crowded with visitants.
Feenou residing in our neighbourhood, we had daily proofs
of his opulence and generosity, by the continuance of his
valuable donations. Poulaho was equally attentive to us in
this respect, as scarcely a day passed without his favouring
us with considerable presents. We were now informed that
a person of the name of Mareewagee was of very high rank
a
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138
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEÁN.
in the island, and was treated with great reverence; nay, if
our interpreter Omai did not misunderstand his inforiners,
that he was superior to Poulaho himself, but that, being ad-
vanced in years, he lived in retirement, and therefore was
not inclined to pay us a visit. This intelligence exciting the
curiosity of captain Cook, he signified to Poulaho his inten-
tion of waiting upon Mareewagee; and the king having agreed
to accompany him, they set out the next morning in the pin-
nace, captain Clerke joining them in one of his own boats.
They proceeded to the eastward of the little isles which form
the harbour, and then turning towards the south, entered a
spacious bay, up which they rowed about three miles, and
landed amidst a great concourse of people, who received
them with shouts and acclamations. The crowd instantly
separated that Poulaho might pass, who took our gentlemen
into a small enclosure, and changed the piece of cloth he
wore for a new piece, very neatly folded. An old woman as-
sisted in dressing him, and put a large mat over his cloth.
Being now asked where Mareewagee was, he said, to the
great surprise of the gentlemen, that he was gone down to
the ships. However, he requested them to accompany him
to a malaee, or house of public resort; and when they came
to a large area before it, he seated himself in the path, while
they at his desire walked up to the house, and sat down in
the front. After waiting a little while, they repeated their
inquiries, by the medium of Omai, whether they were to be
introduced to Mareewagee? but receiving no satisfactory an-
swer, and being inclined to suspect that the aged chief was
purposely concealed from them, they returned to their boats
much piqued at their disappointment. It afterwards appear-
ed that Mareewagee had not been there; and that in this af-
fair, some gross mistakes had been made, Omai either hav-
ing been misinformed, or having misunderstood what was told
him concerning the old chief.
The place our gentlemen went to was a very pleasant vil-
lage, delightfully situated on the banks of the bay or inlet,
where most of the principal persons of the island reside.
Each of these has his house in the midst of a small planta-
tion, with a kind of out-houses, and offices for servants. These
plantations are neatly fenced round, and in general have only
one entrance, which is by a door fastened on the inside with
a prop of wood. Between each plantation there are public
roads and narrow lanes. A considerable part of some of
these enclosures is laid out in grass plots, and planted with
such things as seem less adapted for use than for ornament.
In such other plantations as were not the residence of per-
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
139
sons of high rank, every article of the vegetable produce of
the island was in great plenty. Near the public roads are
some large houses with spacious grass-plots before them,
which were said to belong to the king, and are probably the
places where there public meetings are held.
On Friday the 13th, about twelve o'clock, Mareewagee
came within a small distance of our post on shore, attended
by a great number of people of all ranks. In the course of
the afternoon, the two captains, and others of our gentlemen,
accompanied by Feenou, went ashore to visit him. They
found a person sitting under a tree, with a piece of cloth
about forty yards long, spread before him, round which
numbers of people were seated. They imagined that
this was the great personage, but were undeceived by
Feenou, who informed them, that another, who was sit-
ting on a piece of mat, was Mareewagee. To him they
were introduced by Feenou; and he received them very
graciously, and desired them to sit down by him. The chief,
who sat under the tree, was named Toobou, whom we shall
for the future call Old Toobou, to distinguish him from his
namesake, who has been already mentioned as captain Fur-
neaux's friend. Both he and Mareewagee were venerable in
their appearance. The latter was slender in his person, and
seemed to be near seventy years
of
age.
Old Toobou was
somewhat corpulent, and almost blind from a disorder in his
eyes: he was younger than Mareewagee. Captain Cook not
expecting on this occasion to meet with two chiefs, had
brought on shore a present for one only: this, therefore, he
was obliged to divide between them; but, as it happened to
be considerable, both of them appeared to be satisfied. Our
party now entertained them about an hour with the perform-
ance of two French horns and a drum: but the firing off of
pistol that captain Clerke had in his pocket, seemed to
please them most. Before our gentlemen took their leave of
the two chiefs, the large piece of cloth was rolled up,
and
presented to captain Cook, together with a few cocoa-nuts.
The next morning Old Tooubo came on board to return the
captain's visit: he also visited captain Clerke; and if our for-
mer present was not sufficiently considerable, the deficiency
was now supplied. In the mean time Mareewagee went to
see our people who were stationed on shore; and Mr. King
showed him whatever we had there. He was struck with ad-
miration at the sight of the cattle; and the cross-cut saw ri-
vetted his attention. Towards noon Poulaho came on board,
bringing with him his son, who was about twelve
years
of
age.
He dined with captain Cook; but the son, though present,

140
A. VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
was not permitted to sit down with him. The captain found
it very convenient to have him for his guest; for, whenever
he was present, (which was frequently the case), every other
native was excluded from the table, and few of them would
continue in the cabin: whereas, if neither he nor Feenou were
on board, the chiefs of inferior rank were very importunate
to be of the dining party, or to be admitted at that time into
the cabin, which became consequently very much crowded.
The king was soon reconciled to our cookery, and was fond
of our wine. He now resided at the malaee near our tent,
where he this evening entertained our people with a dance,
in which he himself, though so corpulent and unwieldy, en-
gaged.
On the 15th, captain Cook received a message from Old
Tooubo, importing that he was desirous of seeing him on
shore. He and Omai accordingly waited on that chief, whom
they found sitting, like one of the ancient patriarchs, under
the shade of a tree, with a large piece of cloth, the manufac-
ture of the islands, spread out before him. He desired them
to place themselves by him; after which he told Omai, that
the cloth, with some cocoa-nuts and red feathers, constituted
his present to captain Cook. The latter thanked him for the
donation, and asked him to go on board with him. Omai be-
ing sent for by Poulaho, now left the captain, who was inform-
ed by Feenou, that young Fattafaihe, the king's son, desired
to see him. He immediately obeyed the summons, and found
the young prince and Omai seated under a canopy of fine
cloth, with a piece of a coarser kind, seventy-six yards long,
and seven and a half broad, spread before them and under
them. On one side was a quantity of cocoa-nuts; and on the
other a large boar. A multitude of people sat round the
cloth, and among them was Mareewagee, with other persons
of rank. The captain was requested to seat himself by the
prince; and then Omai informed him that he had been instruct-
ed by Poulaho, to tell him, that as his majesty and the cap-
tain were friends, he hoped that his son Fattafaihe might be
comprehended in this friendship; and that the captain, as a
testimony of his consent, would accept of the prince's pre-
sent. Captain Cook readily agreed to this proposal, and invi-
ted them all to dine with him on board. Accordingly, the
young prince, Old Toobou, Mareewagee, three or four sub-
ordinate chiefs, and two old ladies of high rank, accompanied
the commodore to the ship. Mareewagee was dressed in a
.
new piece of cloth, with six patches of red feathers on the
skirts of it. This dress was probably made on purpose
for
this visit; for as soon as he arrived on board, he put it off

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
141
and presented it to captain Cook. When dinner was served
up
not one of them would even sit down, or eat a morsel of
any thing, as they were all taboo, they said; which word,
though it has a comprehensive meaning, generally signifies
that a thing is prohibited. Why they were thus restrained at
present, was not accounted for. Having made presents to
them all, and gratified their curiosity by showing them every
part of the ship, the captain conducted them ashore. When
the boat had reached the land, Feenou and several others
immediately stepped out; and the young prince following
them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid the
heir apparent the same obeisance which the king was accus-
tomed to receive; and when Old Toobou, and one of the old
ladies had honoured him with the same marks of respect,
he
was suffered to land. After this ceremony, the old people
stepped out of the boat into a canoe, which was waiting to
convey them to their place of residence. Captain Cook was
pleased at being present on this occasion, as he was thus fur-
nished with the most convincing proofs of the supreme dig-
nity of Poulaho and his son. By this time, indeed, he had
gained some certain information with regard to the relative
situation of several of the chiefs. He now knew that old Too-
bou and Mareewagee were brothers. Both of them were
men of very considerable property, and in high estimation
,
with the people. Mareewagee, in particular, had obtained
the honourable appellation of Motooa Tonga, which implies
father of Tonga, or of his country. We also now understood
that he was the king's father-in-law, Poulaho having espoused
one of his daughters, by whom he had young Fattafaihe; so
that Mareewagee was grandfather to the prince. As for Fee-
nou he was one of the sons of Mareewagee, and Tooboueitoa
was another.
Captain Cook, on his landing, found Poulaho in the house
adjoining to our tent, who immediately made him a present
of a quantity of yams and a hog. Towards evening a number
of the islanders came, and having seated themselves in a cir-
cle, sung in concert with the music of bamboo-drums, which
were placed in the centre. Three of them were long ones,
and two were short. With these they struck the ground end-
wise. There were two others that lay side by side on the
ground, one of which was partly split; on these a person con-
tinued beating with two sticks. They sung three songs
while
the captain stayed; and the entertainment lasted, after he left
them, till ten o'clock. They burned the leaves of the wharra
palm for a light.
а

142
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
In the mean time, Mr. Anderson, with several others,
made an excursion into the country, which furnished him
with observations to the following effect: Westward of the
tent, the country for about two miles is entirely uncultivated,
though covered with trees and bushes growing naturally with
the greatest vigour. Beyond this a pretty large plain extends
itself, on which are cocoa-trees, and some small plantations.
Near the creek, which runs west of the tent, the land is per-
fectly flat, and partly overflowed every tide by the sea.
When the water retires, the surface is seen to consist of co-
ral rock, interspersed with holes of yellowish mud; and near
the edges, where it is rather more firm, are vast numbers of little
openings, whence issue innumerable small crabs, which swarm
upon the spot, but are so very nimble, that, when approach-
ed, they instantaneously disappear, and baffle all the dexterity
of the natives who endeavour to catch them. At this place
is a work of art, which testifies some degree of ingenuity
and perseverance: on one side is a narrow causeway, which
gradually increasing in breadth, rises with a gentle ascent to
the height of ten feet, where its breadth is five
paces,
the
whole length being about seventy-four paces. Adjacent to
this is a kind of circus, thirty paces in diameter, about one
or two feet higher than the causeway that joins it; and in the
middle of this circus some trees are planted. On the oppo-
site side another causeway descends, which is partly in ru-
ins, and not above forty paces in length. The whole is built
of large coral stones, with earth on the surface, which is
overgrown with shrubs and low trees. From its decaying in
several places, it is probably of some antiquity. It seems to
be of no service at present, whatever may have been its use
in former times. All the intelligence concerning it, that Mr.
Anderson could procure from the natives was,
that it was
called Etchee, and belonged to the king.
In the morning of the 16th captain Cook and Mr. Gore
took a walk into the country; in the course of which they
met with an opportunity of seeing the whole process of mak-
ing cloth, the principal manufacture of these islands, as well
as of many others in the South Sea. An account of this ope-
ration, as performed here, may not improperly be subjoined.
The manufacturers, who are of the female sex, take the slen-
der stalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which rarely
grows more than seven feet in height, and about the thick-
ness of four fingers. From these stalks they strip the bark,
and
scrape off the exterior rind; after which the bark is roll-
ed
up,
and macerated for some time in water; it is then

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
143
a
a
beaten with a square instrument of wood, full of coarse
grooves, but sometimes with a plain one. The operation is
often repeated by another person; or the bark is folded seve-
ral times, and beat longer, which is probably intended to close
rather than divide its texture. It is then spread out to dry;
the pieces being from four to six or seven feet in length, and
about half as broad. These pieces are joined by smearing
part of them with the glutinous juice of a berry called tooo;
and, after being thus lengthened, they are placed over a large
piece of wood, with a sort of stamp, composed of a fibrous
substance laid beneath them. The manufacturers then take a
bit of cloth, and having dipped it in a juice expressed from
the bark of a tree called kokka, rub it briskly over the piece
that is making. This leaves upon the surface a dry gloss,
and a dull brown colour; and the stamp makes at the same
time a slight impression. Thus they proceed, joining and
staining by degrees, till a piece of cloth of the requisite
length and breadth is produced. They generally leave a bor-
der, about a foot broad, at the sides, and rather longer at the
ends, unstained. If any parts of the original pieces have holes,
or are too thin, they glue spare bits upon them till their thick-
ness equals that of the rest. Whenever they are desirous of
producing a black colour, they mix the juice of the kokka
with the soot procured from an oily nut called dooedoce.
They assert, that the black cloth, which is usually most
glazed, makes a cold dress; but the other, a warm one.
The commodore and Mr. Gore, meeting with Feenou on
their return from their excursion, took him and another chief,
on board to dinner; which being served up, neither of them
,
would eat a morsel, alleging that they were taboo avy;
but
when they found, that, in dressing a pig and some yams, no
avy (water) had been made use of, they both sat down, and
eat very heartily, and drank some wine, on being assured
that there was no water in it. From this circumstance we
inferred, that they were at this time, for some particular
reason, forbidden to use water; or that perhaps they did not
like the water we then used, it being taken out of one of the
places where the islanders bathed.
The following day, which was the 17th, was fixed upon by
Mareewagee for giving a grand haiva, or entertainment, at
which we were all invited to attend. Before the temporary
hut of this chief, near our land station, a large space had
been cleared for that purpose. In the morning, vast num-
bers of the natives came in from the country, every one of
whom bore on his shoulder a long pole, at each end of

144
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCLAN.
pro-
which a yam was suspended. These poles and yams being
deposited on each side of the open space, or area, formed
two large heaps, decorated with small fish of different kinds.
They were Mareewagee's present to the captains Cook and
Clerke. The necessary preparations being made, the
islanders began, about eleven o'clock, to exhibit various
dances, which they call mai. The band of music at first
consisted of seventy men as a chorus, amidst whom were
placed three instruments that we called drums, though they
did not much resemble them. They are cylindrical pieces of
wood from three to four feet in length, some of them twice
as thick as a man of ordinary size, and some not so large.
They are entirely hollow, but close at each end, and open
only by a chink, about the breadth of three inches, running
nearly the whole length of the drums. By this opening, the
rest of the wood is hollowed; which must be an operation
of some difficulty. This instrument is called by the natives
naffa; and having the chink turned towards them, they sit
and beat vigorously upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of
wood, as thick as the wrist, and about a foot in length; by
which means a rude, but loud and powerful sound, is
duced. They occasionally vary the strength and rate of
,
their beating; and likewise change the tones, by beating to-
wards the end, or in the middle of the instrument.
There were four ranks, of twenty-four men each, in the
first dance. These held in their hands a small thin wooden
instrument, above two feet in length, resembling in its shape
an oblong paddle. With these instruments, which are called
pagge, they made many different motions, such as pointing
them towards the ground on one side, and inclining their
bodies that way at the same instant; then shifting them to
the opposite side in the same manner; passing them with
great quickness from one hand to the other, and twirling
them about with remarkable dexterity, with various other
maneuvres. Their motions, which were slow at first, quick-
ened as the drums beat faster; and they repeated sentences
the whole time in a musical tone, which were answered by
the chorus; but, in a short time, they all joined, and ended
with a shout. After a cessation of a few minutes, they be-
gan as before, and continued with short intervals, upwards of
a quarter of an hour; and then the rear-rank dividing,
moved slowly round each end, met in the front, and formed
the first rank; during which time the whole number conti-
nued to recite sentences. The other ranks successively did
the
same,
till that which was foremost became the rear; and
a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
145
a
this evolution did not cease till the last rank regained its
former situation. A much quicker dance, though slow at
first, was then begun, and they sung for ten minutes, when
the whole body in a two-fold division retreated, and then
advanced, forming a kind of circular figure, which concluded
the dance; the chorus retiring, and the drums being removed
at the same time.
In the second dance there were forty men as a chorus,
with only two drums; and the dancers, or rather actors, con-
sisted of two ranks, the foremost of which had seventeen
persons, and the other fifteen. Feenou was in the middle of
the first rank, which is considered, on these occasions, as the
principal place. They danced and repeated sentences, with
very short intervals for half an hour, sometimes slowly, and
at other times quickly, with the highest degree of exactness
and regularity. Towards the close, the rear-rank divided,
came round, and occupied the place of the front, which af-
terwards resumed its pristine situation. This dance being
finished, the drums were taken away, and the chorus retired,
as in the preceding dance.
Three very large drums were now brought in, and seventy
men served as a chorus to the third dance. This consisted
of two ranks, of sixteen men each, having young Toobou at
their head, who was splendidly ornamented with a kind of
garment covered with red feathers. These persons danced,
sung and twirled the pagge, so as to meet with the continued
applause of the spectators, who were particularly pleased
with a motion in which they held the face aside, as if
ashamed, with the pagge before it. The hindermost rank
closed before the front one, which soon after resumed its
place, as in the first and second dances: then beginning
again, they formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each
end of the area, and left the ground in a great measure clear.
Two men rushing in at that instant, began to exercise the
clubs which they make use of in battle. They first twirled
them in their hands, and made circular strokes before them
with great quickness, managing with such skill, that though
they stood close to each other, they never interfered. They
shifted the clubs, with uncommon dexterity, from one hand
to the other; and, after some time, kneeled down and made
various motions, tossing up their clubs in the air, and catch-
ing them as they fell. They then retired as hastily as they
had entered. They had pieces of white cloth about their
heads, fastened at the crown with a wreath of foliage round
their foreheads: and, that they might be free from all in-
VOL. I.
T

146
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
cumbrance, they had only a very small piece of cloth tied
round the waist. A man, armed with a spear, then rushed
in, and put himself in a menacing attitude, as if he intended
to strike with his weapon at one of the people in the crowd;
at the same time bending the knee a little, and trembling as
if it were with fury. He continued in this position near a
.
minute, and then moved to the other side, where, having
stood in the same posture, he hastily retreated from the area.
During all this time, the dancers who had divided them-
selves into two parties, continued to repeat something slowly;
and they now came forward, and joined again, concluding
the dance with general applause. This dance was probably
considered as a capital performance, as some of the princi-
pal people were engaged in it; one of the drums being beat
by Futtafaihe, the king's brother, another by Feenou, and
the third by Mareewagee himself.
In the fourth and last dance, there were forty men as a
chorus, with two drums. The performers were sixty men,
arranged in three rows, having twenty-four in front. Before
they commenced, we were entertained with a preliminary
harangue,
in which the whole number made responses to an
individual speaker. They recited sentences alternately with
the chorus, and made with the pagge many quick motions.
They divided into two parties, with their backs to each
other; formed again, shifted their ranks (as in the preceding
dances), divided, and retreated, being succeeded by two men
who exercised their clubs as before, after whom came two
others; the dancers in the mean time repeating in their
turns with the chorus: they then advanced, and terminated
the dance.
These amusements continued from eleven o'clock till near
three. The number of islanders who attended as spectators,
together with those who were round the trading-place at the
tent, or straggling about, amounted to at least ten thousand,
all within the compass of a quarter of a mile. If we had
understood what was spoken in this entertainment, we might
probably have gained much information with regard to the
genius and customs of these people. Though the spectators
constantly applauded the different motions, when well made,
a considerable share of the pleasure they received, seemed
to arise from the sentimental part, or what the performers
recited. However, the mere acting part well deserved our
notice, on account of the extensiveness of the plan, the va-
riety of the motions, and the exact unity, ease,
and
grace-
fulness, with which they were performed.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
145
a
In the evening we were entertained with the bomai, or
night-dances, on a large area before the temporary dwelling-
place of Feenou. They continued three hours; during which
time about twelve of them were performed, nearly in the
same manner as those at Hapaee. In two of them, which
were performed by women, a party of men came and form-
ed a circle within theirs. In another, which consisted of
twenty-four men, many motions that we had not before seen,
were made with the hands, and met with great applause. .
The music was once changed in the course of the evening:
and, in one of the dances, Feenou himself appeared at the
head of fifty men: he was well dressed in linen, and some
small pictures were hung round his neck.
Though the whole entertainment was conducted with beta
ter order than could reasonably have been expected, yet our
utmost care and attention could not prevent our being plun-
dered by the natives, in the most daring and insolent man-
ner. There was scarcely any thing which they did not en-
deavour to steal. They once, in the middle of the day, at-
tempted to take an anchor from off the Discovery's bow; but
without effect. The only violence of which they were guilty,
was, the breaking the shoulder-bone of one of our goats; in
consequence of which he died soon after. On Wednesday
the 18th, an islander got out of a canoe into the Resolution,
and stole a pewter-bason; but being detected, he was pur-
sued, and brought alongside the ship. Upon this occasion,
three old women in the canoe made loud lamentations over
the prisoner, beating their faces and breasts with the palms
of their hands in a very violent manner, but without shed-
ding a tear. This mode of expressing sorrow occasions the
mark which most of these people bear on the face, over their
cheek-bones; for the repeated blows inflicted by them on this
part, abrade the skin, and cause some blood to flow out;
and when the wound is recent, it looks as if a hollow circle
had been made by burning. On some occasions, they cut
this part of the face with an instrument.
The same day captain Cook bestowed some presents on
Mareewagee, in return for those which had been received
from that chief the preceding day; and as the entertainments
then exhibited called upon us to make some exhibition in re-
turn, he ordered all the marines to go through their exer-
cise, on the spot where the late dances had been performed;
and, in the evening, some fire-works were also played off at
the same place. The king, the principal chiefs, and a vast
multitude of people, were present. The platoon firing seem-

148
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ed to please them; but, when they beheld our water-rockets,
they were filled with astonishment and admiration. They
did not much regard the fife and drum, or French-horns,
that were playing during the intervals. Poulaho sat behind
every one, no person being permitted to sit behind him;
and that his view might receive no obstruction, none sat im-
mediately before him; but a lane, as it were, was made by
the spectators from him, quite down to the space allotted for
playing off the fire-works.
While the natives were in expectation of this evening ex-
hibition, they engaged for the greatest part of the afternoon,
in wrestling and boxing. When a person is desirous of
wrestling, he gives a challenge by crossing the ground in a
kind of measured pace, and clapping smartly on the elbow
joint of one arm, which is bent, and sends forth a hollow
sound. If no opponent steps forth, he returns and sits down;
but if an antagonist appears, they meet with marks of the
greatest good nature, generally smiling, and deliberately ad-
justing the piece of cloth that is fastened round the waist.
They then lay hold of each other by his cloth, and he who
succeeds in drawing his opponent to him, instantly endea-
vours to lift him upon his breast, and throw him on his back;
and if he can turn round with him in that position two or
three times, before he throws him, he meets with great ap-
plause for his dexterity. If they are more equally matched,
they quickly close, and attempt to throw each other by en-
twining their legs, or raising each other from the ground;
in which struggles they display an extraordinary exertion of
strength. When one of them is thrown, he immediately re-
tires; while the conqueror sits down for near a minute, then
rises and goes to the side from which he came, where the
victory is proclaimed aloud. After sitting for a short time,
he rises again, and challenges; and if several antagonists
appear, he has the privilege of choosing which of them he
,
pleases to engage with: he may also, if he should throw his
competitor, challenge again, till he himself is vanquished;
and then the people on the opposite side chant the song of
victory in favour of their champion. It frequently happens,
that five or six rise from each side, and give challenges toge-
ther; so that it is not uncommon to see several sets engaged
on the field at the same time. They preserve great temper
in this exercise, and leave the spot without the least dis-
pleasure in their countenances. When they find that they
are too equally matched, they desist by mutual con-
sent; and if it does not clearly appear which of them has

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
119
had the advantage, both sides of them proclaim the victory,
and then they engage again. But no one, who has been
vanquished, is permitted to engage a second time with his
conqueror.
Those who intend to box, advance sideways, changing
the side at every pace, having one arm stretched out before,
the other behind; and holding in one hand a piece of cord,
which they wrap closely about it, when they meet with an
opponent. This is probably intended to prevent a disloca-
tion of the hand or fingers. Their blows are dealt out with
great quickness and activity, and are aimed principally at
the head. They box equally well with either hand. One of
their most dexterous blows is, to turn round on the heel, just
after they have struck their adversary, and to give him ano-
ther pretty violent blow with the other hand backward. In
boxing-matches, unless a person strikes his antagonist to the
ground, they never sing the song of victory; which shows,
that this diversion is less approved among them than wrest-
ling. Not only boys engage in both these exercises; but it
not unfrequently happens, that little girls box with great
obstinacy. On all these occasions they do not consider it as
any disgrace to be overcome; and the vanquished person sits
down with as much indifference as if he had never engaged.
Some of our people contended with them in both exercises,
but were generally worsted.
Captain Cook intending to leave behind him some of the
animals he had brought, thought proper to make a distribu-
tion of them before his departure. He therefore, on the
19th, assembled the chiefs before our house, and marked out
his intended presents to them. To the king he gave a bull
and a cow; to Mareewagee, a cape ram and two ewes; and
to Feenou a horse and a mare. He instructed Omai to tell
them, that no such animals existed within several months' sail
of their island; that we had brought them, with a great de-
gree of trouble and expense, for their use; that, therefore,
they ought not to kill any of them till they had multiplied
considerably; and finally, that they and their posterity ought
to remember, that they had received them from the natives
of Britain. Omai also explained to them their respective
uses, as far as his limited knowledge in such points would
permit him. The captain had intended to give old Toobou
two or three goats; but finding that chief indifferent about
them, he added them to the share of Poulaho. It soon ap-
peared, that some of the natives were dissatisfied with the
allotment of our animals; for the next morning, two of our
a

150
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
turkey-cocks, and one kid, were missing. Our commodore
being determined to get them restored, seized on three
canoes that were alongside the ships; then went on shore,
and having found his majesty, his brother, Feenou, and
some other chiefs in our house, he immediately appointed a
guard over them, and intimated to them, that they must
continue under restraint, till not only the turkeys and the
kid, but the other things of which we had been plundered at
various times, were restored to us. They assured him, that
the things in question should all be returned; and then sat
down to drink kava, with an appearance of unconcern. Soon
afterwards, an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to us.
Some armed natives, in the mean time, began to assemble be-
hind the house; but they dispersed when a part of our guard
marched against them; and the chiefs at the instigation of
the commodore, gave orders that no more should appear.
When he invited them to dine with him on board, they
readily, consented. Some of them having afterwards ob-
jected to Poulaho's going, he rose up immediately, and de
clared that he would be the first man. Accordingly, the
chiefs went on board with captain Cook, and remained in the
ship till near four o'clock. He then conducted them ashore;
and, not long after, the kid and one of the turkeys were
restored to him. On their promising that the other turkey
should be brought back the next morning, he released both
them and the canoes.
Captain Cook now walked out with Omai, with a view of
observing how the natives in our neighbourhood fared; for
this was the usual time of their meals. He found that they
were, in general, ill supplied; a circumstance not to be won-
,
dered at, since most of the yams, and other provisions that
they brought with them, were disposed of to us; and they
were unwilling to return to their own habitations, while they
could
procure any sustenance near our post. That particular
part of the island, where our station was, being uncultivated,
there were none of the natives who had a fixed residence
within half a mile of us. Those therefore who were at our
post, were obliged to live under trees and bushes, or in tem-
porary sheds; and the cocoa-trees were stripped of their
branches, for the purpose of erecting huts for the chiefs.
,
Omai and the captain, in the course of their walk, found
six or seven women at supper together, two of whom were
fed by the others. On their asking the reason of this cir-
cumstance, the women replied, taboo mattee. Upon further
inquiry it appeared, that one of them, about two months be-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
151
fore, had washed the corpse of a chief, on which account
she was not allowed to handle any food for five months; and
that the other had performed the same office to the dead
body of a person of inferior rank, and was therefore under
a similar restriction, though not for so long a space.
On Saturday the 21st, early in the morning, Poulaho came
on board, to invite captain Cook to a haiva or entertainment,
which he designed to give the same day. He had already
had his head besmeared with red pigment, in order to com-
municate a red colour to his hair, which was naturally of a
dark brown. The captain, after breakfast, attended him to
the shore, and found the islanders very busy in two places,
fixing, in a square and upright position, four very long posts,
at the distance of near two feet from each other. They af-
terwards filled up with yams the space between the posts;
and fastened sticks across, from one post to another, at the
distance of every four feet, to prevent the posts from sepa-
rating, by the weight of the inclosed yams, and also to as-
cend by. As soon as the yams had reached the summit of
the first posts, they continued to fasten others to them, till
each pile was thirty feet or more in height. They placed
on the top of one of the piles two baked hogs; and on the
top of the other, a living one; and they tied another by the
legs half-way up. The facility and despatch with which
these two piles were raised, was remarkable. After they had
completed them, they accumulated some other heaps of yams,
and also of bread-fruit, on each side of the area; to which a
turtle, and a great quantity of excellent fish, were added.
The whole of this, with some red feathers, a mat, and a
piece of cloth, composed the king's present to captain Cook,
About one o'clock the mai, or dances, were begun. The first
of these very nearly resembled the first that was performed
at Mareewagee's entertainment. The second was conducted
by young Toobou; and in this, four or five women were in-
troduced, who equalled the men in the exactness and regu-
larity of their motions. Near the end, the performers di-
vided, in order to leave room for two champions who
exercised their clubs. In the third dance, which was the
last, two other men, with clubs, exhibited their skill and
activity. The dances were succeeded by boxing and wrestling;
and one man entered the lists with a kind of heavy club,
made from the stem of a cocoa-leaf, but could meet with no
opponent to engage him in so rough a diversion. Towards
the evening, the bomai, or night-dances, began, in which the
king himself, apparelled in English manufacture, was a per-

152
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
former: but neither these, nor the dances in the day-time,
were so capital as those of Feenou, or Mareewagee.
The commodore, in order to be present the whole time,
dined on shore. Poulaho sat down with him, but neither eat
nor drank, which was owing to the presence of a female,
who had been admitted, at his request, to the dining party,
and who, as we were informed in the sequel, was of supe-
rior rank to himself. This lady had no sooner dined, than
she walked up to Poulaho, who applied his hands to her feet;
after which she retired. He immediately dipped his fingers
into a glass of wine, and then all her attendants paid him
obeisance. At his desire some of our fire-works were played
off in the evening; but being damaged, they did not answer
the expectations of the spectators.
No more entertainments being expected on either side, and
the curiosity of the populace being in a great degree satis-
fied, most of them deserted us the day after Poulaho's
haiva. Still, however, we had thieves among us, and had
continual instances of their depredations.
Some of the officers of both ships, who had made an ex-
cursion into the interior parts of the island, returned the 22d
of June in the evening, after an absence of two days. They
had taken their muskets and necessary ammunition with them,
besides several small articles of the favourite commodities;
the whole of which the natives had the dexterity to steal
from them, in the course of their short journey. Inconve-
nient consequences were likely to have attended this affair;
for when our plundered travellers returned, they employed
Omai, without consulting captain Cook, to complain to the
king of the treatment they had received. He, not knowing
how the captain would proceed in this affair, and apprehend-
ing that he might again lay him under restraint, set off early
the next morning, and Feenou followed his example; so that
not a chief of authority now remained near us. The captain
was offended at this business, and reprimanded Omai for
having presumed to interfere in it. This reprimand induced
him to endeavour to bring back his friend Feenou, and he
succeeded in his negotiation, by assuring him that no vio-
lent measures would be pursued to oblige the natives to re-
turn what they had stolen. Trusting to this declaration,
Feenou came back in the evening, and was favourably re-
ceived. Poulaho also favoured us with his company next
day.
Upon this occasion the two chiefs very justly observed to
captain Cook, that, whenever any of his people wanted to


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A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
153
take an excursion into the country, they ought to be made
acquainted with it, that they might order proper people to
attend them, to prevent such outrages. And, had this pre-
caution been taken, it is not to be doubted but that a man
and his property would have been as safe here, as in other
parts of the more civilized world. Though the captain did
not afterwards endeavour to recover the articles taken upon
this occasion, the whole of them were returned, through the
interposition of Feenou, except one musket, and a few other
insignificant articles. By this time also, we recovered the
tools and other matters, that had been stolen from our work-
imen.
On Wednesday the 25th of June, two boats, which captain
Cook had sent in search of a commodious channel to sea, re-
turned. The commanders of them reported, that the chan-
nel to the north, through which he came in, was imminently
dangerous, being full of coral rocks; that there was a good
channel to the eastward, though contracted in one place, by
the small islands; consequently a westerly wind would be
necessary to get through it. We had now recruited our
ships, and repaired our sails, and had little more to expect
of the produce of the island; but as an eclipse of the sun
was to happen on the 5th of July, the captain determined to
stay till that time, to have a chance of observing it.
Having now some leisure before us, captain Cook and a
party
of
us, accompanied by Poulaho, set out the next morn-
ing in a boat, for Mooa, a kind of village, where he, and
the other men of consequence usually reside. Rowing up
the inlet, we saw fourteen canoes fishing in company; in one
of which was Poulaho's son. They had then taken some
fine mullets, about a dozen of which they put into our boat.
They showed us their whole method of fishing, which ap-
peared to be an effectual one.
Taking leave of the prince and his fishing party, we were
rowed to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had
done before, when we went to see Mareewagee. As soon
as we got on shore, we were conducted to one of Poulaho's
houses; which though tolerably large, seemed to be his pri-
vate place of residence, and was situated within a plantation.
The king seated himself at one end of the house, and those
who came to visit him sat down in a semicircle at the other
end. A bowl of kava was immediately prepared for us, and
,
directions were given to bake some yams. While these
were getting ready, some of us, together with a few of the
a
VOL. I.
U

154
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
king's attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, went to take
a view of a fiatooka, or burying-place, at a small distance
from the habitation. It belonged to the king, and consisted
of three largish houses, situated on a rising ground, with a
small one not far off, all ranged longitudinally. The largest
of the three first was the middle house, which was placed in
a square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about
three feet. The other houses were placed on little mounts.
On the floors of these houses, as also on the tops of the
mounts, were fine loose pebbles; and the whole was enclosed
by large flat stones of coral rock. One of the houses was open
on one side, and two wooden busts of men, rudely carved,
were within it. We inquired of the natives who followed
us (but durst not enter here) what these images were; who
informed us, that they were memorials of some chiefs who
had been buried there, and not meant as the representatives
of any deity. Such monuments, it is presumed, are seldom
raised; for these appeared to have been erected many ages.
We were informed that dead bodies had been buried in
each of these houses, but no marks of them were to be dis-
tinguished. The carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which
had been driven ashore on their coast, was deposited in one
of them. On the rising ground was a grass-plot, on which
different large trees were planted; among which were seve-
ral of those called etoa. They greatly resemble the cypress,
and had a very solemn effect. A row of low palms was also
planted near one of the houses.
After refreshing ourselves with some provisions, which
we had brought from our ships, we took a pretty large cir-
cuit into the country, attended by one of the king's minis-
ters, who would not suffer any of the rabble to follow us,
and obliged those whom we met upon our progress to sit
down while we were passing; a mark of respect due only to
their sovereigns. The greatest part of the country was cul-
tivated, and most of their plantations fenced round. Some
parts, indeed, lay fallow, and others in a state of nature; the
latter afforded large quantities of timber.
We found many public and weH-beaten paths leading to
different parts of the island. Travelling here was, indeed,
very commodious, the roads being excellent, and the coun-
level. We were conducted to several pools and springs
of water, but they were, in general, either brackish or
stinking.
In the dusk of the evening, we returned from our walk,
and found our supper in readiness. It consisted of some
a
try level.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
A
155
fish and yams, and a baked hog, in which all the culinary
arts of the island had been displayed. There being nothing
to amuse us after supper, we lay down to sleep, according to
the custom of the country, on mats spread upon the floor,
and had a covering of cloth. The king, who became happy
with wine and brandy which we had brought, also slept in
the house, as did several others of the natives. Before day-
break, they all rose, and entered into conversation by moon-
light. As soon as it was day, they dispersed different ways,
but it was not long before they all returned, accompanied by
several of their countrymen.
While they were preparing a bowlof kava, captain Cook went
to pay a visit to Toobou, captain Furneaux's friend, who had a
house not far distant, which for size and neatness was hardly
exceeded in the place. Here also we found a company pre-
paring a morning draught. The chief made a present to the
captain of a living hog, and one that was baked; also a quan-
tity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. Returning to the
king, we found him and his attendants drinking the second
bowl of kava. That business being performed, be informed
Omai that he was going to perform a mourning ceremony,
called tooge, in memory of a son who had been some time
dead, and desired us to accompany him. Naturally expect-
ing to see somewhat new or curious, we readily complied
with the request.
The king stepped out of the house, attended by two old
women, and put on a new clothing, over which were placed
an old ragged mat, which might probably have served his
grandfather upon a similar solemn occasion. His attendants
were habited in the same manner, excepting that, in point of
antiquity, none of their mats could vie with that of their
master. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by eight
or ten persons in the same uniform, each of them having
likewise a green bough about his neck. Poulaho, who held
his bough in his hand till he approached the place of ren-
dezvous, then also put it about his neck. We now entered a
small inclosure, wherein was a neat house, and a man sitting
before it. As the company entered they took the branches
from their necks, and threw them away. The king seated
himself, and the others sat before him in the usual manner.
By the arrival of other persons, the circle increased to up-
wards of an hundred, principally old men, all dressed in the
manner above described. The company being assembled, a
large root of kava was produced by one of the king's ser-
vants, and a capacious bowl that would contain ave or six

156
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
,
gallons. Many persons now began to chew the root, and the
bowl was filled with liquor up to the brim. Others were em-
ployed in making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The first
cup that was filled, being presented to the king, he ordered
it to be given to another person; the second was also pre-
sented to him, and he drank it; the third was offered to cap-
tain Cook. Afterwards a cup was given to several others,
till the liquor was exhausted; and though not half the com-
pany partook of it, no one appeared in the least dissatisfied.
Each cup, as it was emptied, was thrown upon the ground,
whence it was taken up, and carried to be filled again. All
,
this time the chief, and his whole circle, sat with a great
deal of gravity, hardly speaking a syllable to each other.
All this while we were in expectation of seeing the mourn-
ing ceremony begin, when to our great surprise, as soon as
the kava was drank out, they all rose up and dispersed; and
Poulaho informed us he was now ready to attend us to the
ships.
We had sometimes seen the drinking of kava at other
islands, but no where so frequent as here. The kava is a
species of pepper, which they esteem a valuable article, and
cultivate for this purpose, carefully defending the young
plants from any injury; and it is usually planted about their
houses. It does not often exceed the height of a man, though
they are sometimes seen much higher. It has large heart-
shaped leaves, and jointed stalks.
Only the root of the kava is used at the Friendly Islands:
after being dug up, it is given to the servants, who, breaking
it in pieces, scrape the dirt off, and each chews his portion,
which he afterwards spits into a piece of plantain leaf. Those
who are to prepare the liquor, collect these mouthfuls toge-
ther and deposit them in a large wooden bowl, adding a suffi-
cient quantity of water to make it of a proper strength. It is
then well mixed up with the hands, and wrung hard, in order
to make it productive of as much liquid as possible.
About a quarter of a pint of this beverage is usually put
into each cup. It has no perceptible effect upon these people
.
who use it so frequently; but on some of ours, it operated
like our spirits, occasioning intoxication, or rather stupefac-
tion.
The mourning ceremony being over, we left Mooa, and
set out on our return to the ships. Rowing down the inlet,
we met with two canoes returning from fishing. Poulaho or-
dered them to approach him, and took from them every fish
and shell. He afterwards stopped two other canoes, search-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
157
а
ed them, and found nothing. He gave us some of the fish,
and the rest were sold by his servants on board the ship.
Proceeding down the inlet, we overtook a large sailing canoe,
when every person on board her sat down till we had passed;
even the man who steered, though he could not possibly
manage the helm, but in a standing posture.
Having been informed by Poulaho and others, that there
was some good water at Onevy, a small island about a league
off the mouth of the inlet, we landed there in order to taste
it, and found it to be extremely brackish. This island is quite
in a natural state, and only frequented as a fishing place;
having nearly the same productions as Palmerston's Island.
When we returned to the ship, captain Cook was informed
that every thing had been quiet during his absence; not a
single theft having been committed: of which Feenou and
Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the ma-
nagement of his countrymen in the captain's absence, boasted
not a little. This evinces what power the chiefs have when
they are inclined to execute it; which is not often to be ex-
pected; for whatever was stolen from us was generally con-
veyed to them.
The next day six or eight of the natives assaulted some of
our people who were sawing planks; in consequence of which
they were fired on by the sentry; one of them was supposed
to be wounded, and three were taken. The latter were con-
fined till night, when they were punished and set at liberty.
After this their behaviour was very decent and circumspect;
occasioned, as we imagined, by the man being wounded: for
till this time, they had only heard of the effect of fire-arms,
but now they had felt it. We were not mistaken in our con-
jecture, for Mr. King, and Mr. Anderson, in an excursion
they took into the country, met with the very man, and found
indubitable marks of his having been wounded with a mus-
ket-ball.
Nothing worthy of notice happened at the ships for two
days; we shall therefore fill up that interval with an account
of Mr. Anderson's excursion above-mentioned. On Mon-
day the 30th of June, Mr. King and he, accompanied Fut-
tafaihe as visiters to his house, which is not far from that of
his brother Poulaho, at Mooa. Soon after they arrived, a
largish hog was killed, which was effected by repeated strokes
upon the head. The hair was then curiously scraped off
with the sharp edge of pieces of split bamboo, and the en-
trails taken out by the same simple instrument. Previous to
this, an oven had been prepared, which is a large hole dug

158
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
in the earth, the bottom of which is covered with stones,
about the size of a man's fist, which are made red hot by
kindling a fire over them; then they wrap up some of these
stones in leaves of the bread-fruit tree, with which they filled
the hog's belly; stuffing in a quantity of leaves to prevent
their falling out, and thrusting a plug of the same kind in
the anus. This being done the carcass was placed upon some
sticks laid across the stones, and covered with plantain
leaves. The earth was afterwards dug up all round; and the
oven being thus effectually closed, the operation of baking
required no further aid.
They afterwards amused themselves by walking about the
country, but saw nothing remarkable, except a fiatooka of
about thirty feet high. At a small distance there was a num-
ber of etoa-trees, on which were vast quantities of Ternate
bats, making a most horrible noise. Not having their mus-
kets at that time, they could not kill any of them, but some
,
taken at Annamooka, measured almost a yard, when the
wings were extended.
On their return to Futtafaihe's house, the baked hog was
produced, accompanied with some cocoa-nuts, and several
baskets of baked yams. The person who prepared the hog
in the morning, now cut it up in a very masterly manner,
with a knife made of split bamboo. Though the weight of
it was at least fifty pounds, the whole was placed before
them; when they took a small part, and desired the rest
might be partaken of by the people sitting round. Futtafaihe
could hardly be prevailed upon to eat a morsel.
Dinner being ended, they went with him and his attend-
ants, towards the spot where Poulaho's mourning ceremony
was performed. They saw nothing but a kind of continua-
tion of the same solemn rites, by way of condolence. Upon
inquiring upon whose account it was now transacted, they
were informed that it was in memory of a chief who had long
since died at Vavaoo; that they had practised it ever since,
and should continue to do so for a considerable length of
time to come.
They were entertained in the evening with a pig for sup-
per, dressed like the hog, and like that, accompanied with
yams and cocoa-nuts. When the supper was over, a large
quantity of cloth was brought for them to sleep in; but they
were disturbed in their repose by a singular instance of lux-
ury, in which their men of consequence indulge themselves;
that of being thumped or beat while they are asleep. Two
women, who sat by Futtafaihe, performed this operation,
a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
159
which they call tooge, tooge, by striking his body and legs
with both fists, till he fell asleep, and with some intervals,
continued it the whole night. The person being fast asleep,
they abate a little of the strength and briskness of the beat-
ing; but if they observe any appearance of his awakening,
they resume it. In the morning they were informed that
Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went alternately
to sleep. Such a practice as this, in any other country, would
be supposed to be destructive of all rest; but here it
operates
like an opiate, and strongly shows what habit may effect.
They set out with Futtafaihe the next morning, and walk-
ed to the point, down the east side of the bay. The country
all along this side appeared to be well cultivated, but not so
much enclosed as at Mooa. They found that in travelling,
Futtafaihe exercised a power, which showed the great au-
thority the principal men are invested with. To one place he
sent for fish, and to another for yams; and his orders were as
readily obeyed, as if he had been absolute master of all the
people's property.
They crossed the bay in the evening to their station, in a
canoe procured by Futtafaihe, by exercising his authority in
calling to the first that appeared; he had also a large hog at
this place, and wanted them to accept of a bundle of cloth;
but the boat being small, they objected; and he ordered it to
be taken to them the next day. Thus ends Mr. Anderson's
account of this excursion.
Captain Cook had prolonged his stay at this island on ac-
count of the approaching eclipse; but on looking at the mi-
crometer, (on the 2d July) he found some accident had hap-
pened to it, and that it was rendered useless till repaired;
which could not be done before the time it was intended to
be used. We therefore got on board this day, all the cattle
and other animals, except those that were destined to remain.
The captain designed to have left a turkey-cock and hen,
but two hens being destroyed by accident, and wishing to
carry the breed to Otaheite, he reserved the only remaining
pair for that purpose. .
We took up our anchor the next day, and moved the ships
behind Pangimodoo, to be ready for the first favourable wind
to take us through the narrows. The king who was of our
company one day at dinner, I observed took particular no-
tice of the plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer
of
one, either of pewter or earthen ware. He chose the first;
and then began to tell us the several uses to which he in-
tended to apply it. Two of them are so extraordinary, that

160
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
He was
a
I cannot omit mentioning them. He said that whenever he
should have occasion to visit any one of the other islands, he
would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a sort
of representative in his absence, that the people might pay it
the same obeisance they do to himself in person.
asked what had been usually employed for this purpose be-
fore he got this plate; and we had the satisfaction of learning
from him, that this singular honour had been conferred on a
wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. The other ex-
traordinary use to which he meant to apply it in the room of
his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said that when
any thing was stolen, and the thief could not be found out,
the people were all assembled together before him, when he
washes his hands in water in this vessel; after which it was
cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced, one after
another, and touched it in the same manner that they touch
his foot when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty person
touched it, he died immediately upon the spot; not by vio-
lence, but by the hand of providence; and if any one refused
to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that he was the
man. In the morning of Saturday the 5th of July, the day
of the eclipse, the weather was cloudy, with some showers
of rain. About nine o'clock the sun broke out at small inter-
vals, for about half an hour, but was totally obscured just
before the beginning of the eclipse. The sun again appeared
at intervals till about the middle of the eclipse; but was seen
no more during the remainder of the day, so that we could
not observe the end. This disappointment was the less to be
lamented, as the longitude was sufficiently determined by lu-
nar observations.
The eclipse being over, we packed up the instruments, and
every thing was conveyed on board. None of the natives
having taken any care of the three sheep allotted to Maree-
wagee, the commodore ordered them to be carried back to
the ships. He was apprehensive that if they had been left
there, they would probably be destroyed by dogs. These
animals did not exist upon the island in 1773, when the com-
modore first visited it; but there is now a plenty of them;
partly from the breed left by him, and partly from some im-
ported from an island called Fejee. At present, however, the
dogs have not got into any of the Friendly Islands, except
Tongataboo.
Mr. Anderson has given us the following description of
this island. Amsterdam, Tongataboo, or Tonga (as it is
sometimes called by the natives) is about twenty leagues in

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
161
circumference, rather oblong, though broadest at the east
end, and its greatest length is from east to west. The south
shore is straight, consisting of coral rocks of about eight or
ten feet high, terminating perpendicularly, except in some
few places, where there are sandy beaches. The west end is
about five or six miles broad, and has a shore like that of the
south side; but the north side is environed with shoals and
islands; and the east side is, most probably like the south.
This island may with propriety be called a low one. The
only eminent part, to be observed from a ship, is the south-
east point, though many gentle rising and declining grounds
are perceivable by those who are on shore. Though the ge-
neral appearance of the country does not exhibit that beauti-
ful kind of landscape, produced by a variety of hills and val-
lies, rivulets and lawns, yet it conveys an idea of the most
exuberant fertility. The surface at a distance, seems entirely
clothed with trees of various sizes: but the tall cocoa-palms
raise their tufted heads high above the rest, and are a noble
ornament to any country that produces them. The boogoo,
which is a species of the fig, is the largest sized tree upon
the island; and the most common bushes and small trees on
the uncultivated spots, are the pandanus, the faitanoo, several
sorts of hibiscus, and a few others.
The climate of Tongataboo, from the situation towards
the tropic, is more variable than in countries far within that
line; though that might perhaps be occasioned by the season
of the year, which was now the winter solstice. The winds
,
are generally from some point between south and east. The
wind, indeed, sometimes veers to the northeast, or even
northwest, but never continues long, nor blows strong from
thence, though often accompanied with heavy rain, and close
sultry weather.
The vegetable productions are never so much affected, re-
specting the foliage, as to shed it all at once; but
every
leaf
as it falls, is succeeded by another, which causes the appear-
ance of universal spring.
A coral rock appears to be the basis of the island, that be-
ing the only sort that presents itself on the shore. There was
not the appearance of any other stone, except some small
blue pebbles about the fiatookas, and the smooth black stone,
of which the natives make their hatchets; and these have,
perhaps, been brought from other islands in the neighbour-
hood. Though in many places, the coral projects above the
surface, the soil is in most parts, of a considerable depth.
VOL. I.
X

162
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
In cultivated places, it is generally of a loose black colour,
seemingly produced by the rotten vegetables.
The principal of the cultivated fruits in this island, are
plantains, of which they have fifteen varieties; the jambu,
and the eevee; the latter being a kind of plum; and vast
quantities of shaddocks, as often found in a natural state as
planted.
Of yams there are two sorts; one black, and so large as to
weigh from twenty to thirty pounds; the other white and
long; seldom exceeding a pound in weight. There is a large
root called capee; another like our white potatoes, called
mawhaha; the taloo, and the jeejee.
They have vast numbers of cocoa-nut trees, and three
other sorts of palms. One is called beeoo, growing almost as
high as the cocoa-tree, and having very large leaves, plaited
like a fan. The other is a kind of cabbage-tree, much re-
sembling the cocoa, but rather thicker. A third sort is called
,
ongo ongo; it seldom grows higher than five or six feet.
Plenty of excellent sugar cane is cultivated here; also gourds,
bamboo, turmeric, and a species of fig, called matte; but the
catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large to be enume-
rated.
There are no quadrupeds in this island, but hogs, dogs,
and a few rats. Fowls of a large breed are domesticated
here.
Among the birds are parrots, and parroquets, cuckoos,
king-fishers, and a bird of the thrush kind, of a dull green
colour, which is the only singing bird we could find here;
but it compensates in a great degree for the want of others,
by the force and melody of its voice.
Among the other land birds are rails, about the size of a
pigeon, of a variegated gray colour; a black sort with red.
dish eyes; large violet coots, with red bald crowns; two
sorts of fly-catchers; a small swallow; and three sorts of pi-
geons.
Of water-fowl, are the ducks seen at Annamooka; tropic
birds; blue and white herons; noddies; white terns, a new
species of a leaden colour; a small bluish curlew; and a large
spotted plover.
Among the animals of the reptile, or insect tribe, are sea-
snakes (though often seen on shore), about three feet long,
with alternate black and white circles; some scorpions, and
centipedes: also green guanoes, about eighteen inches long,
and two smaller sorts. Here are some beautiful moths and

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
163
butterflies, and some very large spiders; together with others,
making in the whole, about fifty different sorts of insects.
Though the sea abounds with fish, the variety is less than
might be imagined: those in the greatest plenty are mullets,
silver-fish, old-wives, parrot-fish, soles, leather-jackets, albi-
cores, bonnetoes, eels like those about Palmerston's Island,
rays, a sort of pike, and some devil-fish.
There are an endless variety of shell-fish about the reefs
and shoals; among which are the hammer oyster, a large in-
dented oyster, and many others; but none of the common
sort; a gigantic cockle; panamas; cones; pearl-shell oysters,
;
&c. Also several sorts of sea-eggs; many curious star-fish;
crabs; cray-fish; &c. and several sorts of sponge.
Though we were now ready to sail, we had not sufficient
daylight to turn through the narrows; the morning flood
falling out too early, and the evening flood too late. We were
therefore under a necessity of waiting two or three days,
unless we should be fortunate enough to have a leading wind.
This delay gave us an opportunity to be present at a pub-
lic solemnity, to which the king had invited us, and which
was to be performed on the 8th. He and all the people of
consequence repaired to Mooa on the 7th, where the solem-
nity was to be exhibited. Several of us followed them the
next morning. Poulaho had informed us that his son was
now to be initiated into certain privileges; one of which was,
that of eating with his father; an honour he had not hitherto
enjoyed.
About eight o'clock in the morning we arrived at Mooa,
where we found the king with a number of attendants sitting
before him, within a small dirty enclosure. They were, as
usual, busied in preparing a bowl of kava. As this was not
liquor for us, we went to pay a visit to some of our friends,
and to observe what preparations were making for the cere-
mony, which was soon expected to begin.
About ten o'clock, the people assembled in a large area
before the malaee, or great house. At the end of a road,
opening into the area, stood several men with spears and
clubs, incessantly reciting short sentences, in mournful ac-
cents, which conveyed an idea of distress. This was con-
tinued about an hour; during which time many people came
down the road, each having a yam tied to the middle of
a pole, which they laid down before those who continued
repeating the sentences. At length the king and prince ar-
rived, and seated themselves upon the area; and we were
requested to sit down by them, to take off our hats, and to

164
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
untie our hair. The bearers of the yams having all entered,
each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it
over their shoulders. They afterwards formed themselves
into companies of ten or twelve each, and marched across
the place with a rapid pace, each company headed by a man
who had a club or spear, and defended on the right by se-
veral others, armed with different weapons.
About two
hundred and fifty persons walked in the procession, which
was closed by a man carrying on a perch a living pigeon.
Omai was desired by captain Cook to ask the chief where
the
yams were to be carried, with so much solemnity; but he
seemed unwilling to give us the information we required;
some of us, therefore, followed the procession, seemingly
contrary to his inclination.
They stopped before a morai or fiatooka of one house stand-
ing upon a mount, about a quarter of a mile from where
they first assembled. Here they deposited the yams, and
gathered them into bundles; but for what purpose, we could
not possibly learn. Our presence seeming to give them of-
fence or uneasiness, we quitted them and returned to Pou-
laho, who advised us to amuse ourselves by walking about,
as nothing would be done for a considerable time. The fear
of losing the sight of any part of the ceremony, prevented
our being long absent. When we returned to the king, he
desired captain Cook to order the boat's crew not to presume
to stir from the boat, for every thing would very soon be
taboo; and if any one of our people, or of their own, should
be seen walking about, they would certainly be knocked down
with clubs; nay mateed; that is, killed. He also informed us
that we could not be present at the ceremony; but that we
should be placed in such a situation as to be able to see every
thing that passed. Our dress was particularly objected to,
and we were told, that to qualify us to be present, we must
be naked as low as the breast, and our hats taken off, and our
hair untied. Omai readily agreed to conform to these re-
quisites, and immediately began to strip; but other objections
were then started, and he was excluded equally with our-
selves.
Not relishing this restriction, the captain stole out to see
what might now be going forward. Very few people, how-
ever, were to be seen, except those who were dressed to at-
tend the ceremony; some having in their hands small poles,
about four feet in length, to the under part of which were
fastened two or three other small sticks, about six inches
long. These men were going towards the morai. Captain
а

Plate 73.
COME AVERE
TIT
Enim bu Frane Jallus 12.2.0. Jouth Third Plurium
THE MATCHLE a CEREMONY in HONOUR of the KINGS SON in L.ON CATABOO
OF
UNIL
W
ICH


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
165
Cook took the same road, and was frequently stopped by
them, all crying out taboo. However, he ventured to go for-
ward till he came in sight of the morai, and of the people
sitting before it. He was now strongly urged to go back,
and not knowing what might be the consequence of a refusal, ,
he complied. He had observed that those who carried the
poles, passed the mora; and guessing from this circumstance
that something was transacting beyond it, he had some
thoughts of advancing, by making a round for this purpose;
but he was so narrowly observed by three men, that he had
no opportunity of putting his design in execution. In order
to shake off these fellows, he returned to the malaee, where
he had parted from the king, and afterwards made an elope-
ment a second time; but he instantly met with the same three
men, who had doubtless received instructions to watch him.
He paid no attention to them, till he came within sight of
the king's principal fiatooka or morai; before which a great
number of people were sitting, being those whom he had
just before seen pass by the other morai, from which this
was but a little distant. Seeing that he could observe the
proceedings of this company from the king's plantation, he
repaired thither, accompanied by several of his people.
The number of persons at the fiatooka, continued increasing
for some time; and at length, they quitted their sitting pos-
ture, and marched off in procession. They walked in pairs,
every pair carrying between them, one of the small poles on
their shoulders. We were informed, that the small pieces of
sticks, fastened to the poles, were yams; it is therefore pro-
bable, that they were meant to represent this root emblemati-
cally. The hindmost man of each couple placed one of his
hands to the middle of the pole, as if it were not strong enough
to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all
seemed to bend, as they proceeded. This procession consist-
ed of one hundred and eight pairs, and principally men of
rank. Having seen them all pass, we repaired to Poulaho's
house, and saw him going out. We were not permitted to
follow him; but were immediately conducted to the place al-
lotted to us, behind a fence adjoining the area of the fiatooka,
where the yams had been deposited in the morning.
Arriving at our station, we saw two or three hundred peo-
ple, sitting on the grass, near the end of the road opening into
the area of the morai; and others were continually joining
them. At length, arrived a few men, each carrying some
small poles and branches, or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree.
As soon as they appeared, an old man seated himself in the
,

166
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
road, and pronounced a long oration in a serious majestic
tone. He then retired, and the others advancing to the mid-
dle of the area, began to erect a small shed or hut; employ-
ing for that purpose the materials already mentioned. Their
work being finished, they all squatted down for a moment
before it, then rose up, and joined the rest of the company.
Poulaho's son arrived soon after, preceeded by four or five
men After them appeared about twelve or fourteen women
of the first rank, advancing slowly in pairs, each pair carry-
ing between them a narrow piece of white cloth, about two
or three yards in length. They approached the prince, squat-
ted down before him, and wrapped some of the pieces of the
cloth around his body; they then rose up, and retired in the
same order, to some distance on his left, where they seated
themselves. Poulaho now made his appearance, preceded
by four men, walking two and two abreast, and sat down on
his son's left hand, at a small distance from him. The young
prince then quitted his first position, and seated himself under
the shed, with his attendants; many others placed themselves
on the grass before this royal canopy. The prince sat facing
the people, with his back to the morai. Three companies of
about ten or a dozen men in each, started up from among the
crowd, soon after each other, and running hastily to the op-
posite side, sat down for a few seconds; and then returned, in
the same manner, to their former stations. To them succeed-
ed two men, each having a small green branch in his hand,
who rose and advanced towards the prince, sitting down, for
a few seconds, three different times as they approached; and
retired in the same manner, inclining their branches to each
other as they sat. Afterwards two others repeated the same
ceremony.
The grand procession which marched from the other morai,
now began to come in. As they entered the area, they pro-
ceeded to the right of the shed, and having prostrated them-
selves on the grass, deposited their pretended heavy bur-
thens, (the poles), and faced round to the prince. They then
rose up and retired in the same order, closing their hands
with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves along
the front of the area. While this numerous band were en-
tering, and depositing their poles, three men who sat with
the prince, continued pronouncing separate sentences, in a
mournful melancholy tone.
A profound silence then ensued for a short time, after
which a man who sat in the front of the area, began a kind
of oration, during which, at several different times, he broke

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
167
yams.
one of the poles which had been brought in. Having con-
cluded his oration, the people sitting before the shed, sepa-
rated to make a lane, through which the prince and his at-
tendants passed, and the assembly closed.
Satisfied with what they had already seen, some of our
party now returned to the ships; but captain Cook and some
more of the officers remained at Mooa, to see the conclusion
of the solemnity, which was not to be till the day following.
The small poles which had been brought by those who
walked in procession, being left on the ground, after the
crowd had dispersed, the commodore examined them, and
found that to the middle of each, two or three small sticks
were tied, as has been related. They were probably intended
as only artificial representations of small
Our supper, consisting of fish and yams, was got ready
about seven o'clock. The king supped with us,
and drank so
freely of brandy and water, that he retired to bed with a
sufficient dose. We continued the whole night in the same
house with him and his attendants.
All except Poulaho himself, rose at day-break; soon after
which, a woman, one of those who generally attended upon
the chief, came in, and sitting down by him, immediately
began the same operation which had been practised upon
Futtafaihe, tapping or beating gently with her clinched fists,
on his thighs. This instead of adding to his repose, had the
contrary effect, and he awoke.
Captain Cook and Omai now paid a visit to the prince,
who had parted from us early the preceding evening; for he
did not lodge with the king, but in apartments of his own,
at some distance from his father's house. We found him
with a circle of boys, about his own age, sitting before him;
and an old man and woman. There were others of both
sexes employed about their necessary affairs, who probably
belonged to his household.
We then returned to the king, who had a crowded levee
before him, consisting principally of old men. While a bowl
of kava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, smoking hot,
were introduced; the greatest part of which fell to our share,
for these people, especially the kava drinkers, eat very little
in a morning
We afterwards walked out and visited several other chiefs;
all of whom were taking their morning draught, or they had
already taken it. Returning to the king, we found him asleep
in a retired hut, with two women tapping or striking on his
breach. About eleven o'clock he arose again, and ate some
a
a
a

168
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
fish and yams, and again lay down to sleep. We now left
him, and waited on the prince, with a present of cloth, beads
and other articles. There was a sufficient quantity of cloth
to make him a complete suit, and he was immediately clad
in his new habiliments. Proud of his dress, he first went to
exhibit himself to his father, and then conducted captain
Cook to his mother, with whom were about a dozen other
women of a very respectable appearance. Here the prince
changed his apparel, and made captain Cook a present of
two pieces of the cloth which had been manufactured in the
island.
It was now about noon, when by appointment, the captain
repaired to the palace to dinner; which was soon after served
up, and consisted of two pigs and some yams. The drowsy
monarch was roused to partake of what he had appointed
for our entertainment. Two mullets, and some shell-fish,
were introduced as if intended for his separate portion. But
he added it to our fare, sat down with us, ,
and made a very
hearty meal.
Dinner being over, we were informed that the ceremony
would soon begin, and were strictly enjoined not to venture
out. The commodore had resolved however, to peep no lon-
ger from behind the curtain, but if possible, to mix with the
actors themselves. With this view he walked towards the
morai, the scene of the solemnity. He was frequently de-
sired to return, but he paid no regard to the admonitions he
received, and was permitted to pass on. When arrived at
the morai, he saw a number of men seated on the side of the
area. A few were also sitting on the opposite side, and two
men in the middle, with their faces turned to the morai.
When captain Cook had got into the midst of the first com-
pany he was desired to sit down, which he accordingly did.
Where he sat, there were lying a number of small bundles,
composed of cocoa-nut leaves, and fastened to sticks made
into the form of handbarrows. All the information he could
get concerning them was, that they were taboo. From time
to time, one or another of the company turned to those who
were coming to join us, and made a short speech, in which
we remarked that the word areekee (king), was generally
mentioned. Something was said by one man that produced
loud bursts of laughter from all around; others of the speak-
ers were also much applauded. The captain was frequently
desired to leave the place; but at length, finding him deter-
mined to stay, they requested him to uncover his shoulders,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
169
as theirs were. This he readily complied with, and then
they no longer seemed uneasy at his presence.
The prince, the women, and the king, at length appeared,
as they had done the preceding day. The prince
being placed
under the shed, two men, each with a piece of mat, came,
repeating something in a very serious strain, and put them
about him. The people now began their operations, and dif-
ferent companies ran backward and forward across the area,
as in the former day. Presently afterwards, the two men in
the middle of the area, made a short speech, and then the
whole company rose up, and placed themselves before the
shed in which the prince, and three or four men were seated.
One of the company who seemed very desirous of obliging
captain Cook, procured him such a situation, that if he could
have made use of his eyes, nothing could have escaped him.
But it was necessary to have a demure countenance and
downcast looks.
The procession soon after arrived, as on the preceding
day; a pole, with a cocoa-nut leaf plaited round the middle
of it, being carried on the shoulders of every two persons.
These were deposited with the same ceremonies as on the
day before. After this succeeded another procession, com-
posed of men who brought baskets, made of palm-leaves,
such as are generally used by this people to carry provisions
in. A third procession followed, in which a variety of small
fish, each placed at the end of a forked stick, were brought
An old man, who sat on the prince's right hand, without the
shed, received the baskets; each of which he kept in his
hand, making a short speech or prayer; then laying that aside,
he called for another, repeating the same kind of
proceeded in this manner till he had gone through the whole
number of baskets. Two men, who till this time, had in their
hands green branches, and were seated on the left, received
the fish one by one, as they were presented to them on the
forked sticks. The first fish they laid down on their right,
and the second on their left. The third being presented, a
stoutish man, who was seated behind the other two, endea-
voured to seize it, as did also the other two at the same
time. Thus every fish was contended for; but the man be
.
hind, on account of his disadvantageous situation, got only
pieces: for he never quitted his hold till the fish was torn
out of his hand. What the others got, were laid on the right
.
,
and left. At last the person behind got possession of a whole
fish, the other two not even touching it. Upon this, the word
mareeai, (very good), was pronounced in a low voice through
prayer; he
VOL. I.
Y

70 A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
a
out the whole crowd. It appeared that he had now done all
that was expected from him; for he did not contend for the
other fish. The persons who brought in these baskets and
fish, delivered them sitting; and in the same manner, the
poles carried in the first procession, had been placed upon
the ground. At the close of the last procession, there was
some speaking or praying by different persons. Then on a
signal being given, we all rose up, ran several paces, and sat
down, with our backs to the prince. The commodore was
requested not to look behind him; but he was not discour-
aged by this injunction, from facing about. The prince had
now turned his face to the morai, and from that moment he
was admitted to the honour of eating with his father, and a
piece of roasted yam was presented to each of them for that
purpose.
Soon after, we all turned about, forming a kind of semicir-
cle before the prince, and leaving an open space between us.
Presently some men advanced towards us, two and two,
bearing large poles upon their shoulders, waving their hands
as they proceeded, and making a noise like singing. When
they came near us, they made a show of walking quick, with-
out advancing a single step. Several men armed with large
sticks, immediately started from the crowd, and ran towards
the new visiters, but they instantly made off, having thrown
down the poles from their shoulders. The others attacked
the poles, and having beat them most unmercifully, returned
to their places. The former as they ran off, gave the chal-
lenge used here in wrestling; and in a short time, some lusty
fellows came from the same quarter, repeating the challenge
as they approached. These were resisted by a company who
arrived at that instant from the opposite side. Both parties,
however, returned to their own quarter, after having paraded
about the area for some minutes. Afterwards for the space
of half an hour, wrestling and boxing-matches succeeded.
Speeches were then delivered by two men, who seated them-
selves before the prince, with which the solemnity ended,
and the whole assembly broke up.
In vain did we endeavour to find out the purport of the
solemnity, calted Natche. All the answer we received to our
inquiries was taboo; which as has been already observed, is
applied to many things. There was a mysterious solemnity
in the whole transaction; and from the manner of performing
it, as well as the place where it was performed, it was evi-
dent that there was a mixture of religion in the institution.
Upon no occasion had they regarded our dress and deport

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
171
occasion.
ment; but now it was required, that our hair should flow
about our shoulders, that we should be uncovered to the
waist, sit cross-legged, and have our hands locked together.
It should be observed also, that none but the chief people
and those who were concerned in the ceremony, were ad-
mitted to assist in the celebration of it. All these circum-
stances evidently pointed out that they supposed themselves
acting under the inspection of a Supreme Being upon this
From the above account of the present natche, it may be
considered as merely figurative. The few yams which were
seen the first day, could not be meant as a general contribu-
tion; and it was intimated to us, that they were a portion
consecrated to the Otooa or Divinity.
We were, however, informed, that in the space of three
months, there would be represented a more important so-
lemnity; on which occasion the tribute of Tongataboo,
Hapaee, Vavaoo, and all the other islands, would be brought
to the chief, and more awfully confirmed, by sacrificing ten
human-victims from amongst the people. A horrid solemnity
indeed! On our inquiring into the occasion of so barbarous a
practice, we were informed that it was a necessary part of
the Natche, and that if omitted, the Deity would destroy
their king
The day was far spent before the breaking up of the as-
sembly; and as we were at some distance from the ships,
we were impatient to set out from Mooa. Taking leave of
Poulaho, he pressed us earnestly to stay till the next day, in
,
order to be present at a funeral ceremony. The wife of
Mareewagee, his mother-in-law, had lately died; and on ac-
count of the natche, her corpse had been carried on board a a
canoe in the lagoon. Poulaho told captain Cook that when
he had paid the last offices to her, he would attend him to
Eooa; but if he did not chuse to wait, that he would follow
him thither. We would gladly have seen this ceremony had
not the tide been now favourable. The wind too, which had
been very boisterous, was now moderate and settled. Be-
sides, we were informed the funeral ceremonies would con-
tinue five days, which, as the ships lay in such a situation
that we could not get to sea at pleasure, was too long a time
to stay. The captain, however, assured the king, that if he
did not immediately sail, he would visit him again the next
day. Whereupon we all took leave of him, and arrived at
our ships about eight o'clock in the evening.

172
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
While the commodore was attending the natche at Mooa,
he ordered the horses, bull, and other cattle, to be brought
thither, thinking they would be safer there, than at a place
that would be in a great measure deserted the moment after
our departure. Besides, we had left with our friends here,
a young English boar and three young English sows. They
were exceedingly desirous of them, naturally supposing that
they would greatly improve their own breed, which is but
small. Feenou also got two rabbits from us, a buck and a
doe, from which young ones were produced before we sailed.
If the cattle succeed, the acquisition to these islands will be
great; and as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horses
will be extremely useful.
We weighed anchor on the 10th, about eight o'clock in the
morning, and with a steady gale run through the channel,
between the small isles called Makahaa and Monooafai. The
flood, at first, set strong in our favour, till leading up to the
lagoon, where the eastward flood meets that from the west.
This, with the indraught of the lagoon and of the shoals before
it, occasions strong riplings and whirlpools. Besides these dis-
advantages, the depth of the channel exceeds the length of a
cable; consequently there can be no anchorage, except close
to the rocks, in forty and forty-five fathoms water, where a
ship would be exposed to the whirlpools. The captain,
therefore, abandoned the design he had formed of coming to
an anchor, when we were through the narrows, and after-
wards of making an excursion to see the funeral. He rather
chose to be absent from that ceremony than to leave the ships
in so dangerous a situation. We plied to windward between
the two tides, till it was near high water, without either
gaining or losing an inch, when we suddenly got into the
influence of the eastern tide, where we expected the ebb to
run strong to the eastward in our favour. It proved, how-
ever, very inconsiderable. Convinced that we could not get
to sea before it was dark, we anchored under the shore of
Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water. The Discovery
dropped anchor under our stern; but drove off the bank be-
fore the anchor took hold, and did not recover it till about
midnight.
Afer remaining in this station till eleven o'clock the next
day, we weighed and plied to the eastward. At ten o'clock
at night we weathered the east end of the island, and stretch-
ed away for Middleburg, or Eooa (as the inhabitants call it)
where we anchored about eight o'clock the next morning, in

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
173
forty fathoms water; being nearly the same place where the
captain took his station in 1773, when he named it English
Road.
As soon as we had anchored, Taoofa the chief, and seve-
ral of the natives, visited us on board, and seemed rejoiced
at our arrival. This Taoofa had been captain Cook's Tayo
when he was here in 1773, and therefore they were not
strangers to each other. The captain accompanied him on
shore in search of fresh water, the procuring of which was
the chief object that brought him to Eooa. He had heard
at Tongataboo of a stream here, which ran from the hills into
the sea; but this was not the case at present. He was con-
ducted to a brakish spring, among rocks, between low and
high water mark. When they perceived that we did not
approve of this, we were shown a little way into the island; ,
where, in a deep chasm, we found some excellent water;
which, though attended with some trouble, might be convey-
ed to the shore by means of spouts or troughs that might be
provided for that purpose; but rather than undertake that
tedious task, the captain contented himself with the supply
the ships had received at Tongataboo.
Before he returned on board, he began a traffic for hogs
and yams. Of the former, we could not procure many;
but of the latter plenty. At this island we landed the ram
and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed, and com-
mitted them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed delighted
with his charge. It was, perhaps, a fortunate circumstance
that Mareewagee, to whom they had been given, as before
related, slighted the present; as Eooa had no dogs upon it at
present, it seemed to be a fitter place for the rearing of sheep
than Tongataboo.
While we were lying at anchor, this island had a very dif-
ferent aspect from any that we had lately seen, and formed a
most pleasing landscape. It is the highest of any we had
seen since we left New-Zealand, and from its top,
,
which
ap-
pears to be almost flat, declines gradually towards the sea.
The other isles, which form this cluster, being level, the eye
cannot discover any thing except the trees that cover them;
but here the land rising gently upwards, presents an exten-
sive prospect, where groves of trees, in beautiful disorder,
are interspersed at irregular distances. Near the shore, it is
quite shaded with a variety of trees, among which are erect-
ed the habitations of the natives; and to the right of where
we were stationed, was one of the most extensive groves of
cocoa-palms that we had ever seen.

174
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
In the afternoon of the 13th, a party of us ascended the
highest part of the island, a little to the right of our ships,
to have a perfect view of the country. Having advanced
about half way up, we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and
sides of which were clothed with trees. We found plenty
of coral till we approached the summits of the highest hills;
the soil near the top is, in general, a reddish clay; which, in
many places, is very deep. On the most elevated part of
the island we saw a round platform supported by a wall of
coral stones.
Our conductors informed us, that this mount
had been raised by the direction of their chief; and that they
met there, occasionally, to drink kava. They called it Etchee;
by which name an erection was distinguished which we had
seen at Tongataboo. At a small distance from it was a
spring of most excellent water; and about a mile lower down,
a stream, which we were told ran into the sea when the
rains were copious. We also discovered water in several
small holes; and supposed that plenty might be found by
digging:
From this elevation we had a complete view of the whole
island, except a small part to the south. The southeast
side, from which the hills we were now upon are not far dis-
tant, rises with great inequalities, immediately from the sea;
so that the plains and meadows lie all on the northwest side,
which being adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with
plantations, form a most delightful landscape in every point
of view. While captain Cook was surveying this enchanting
prospect, he enjoyed the pleasing idea, that some future na-
vigators might, from the same eminence, behold these mea-
dows stocked with cattle, brought by the ships of England;
and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose,
exclusive of all other considerations, would sufficiently
prove that our voyages had not been useless. We found, on
this height, besides the plants common on the neighbouring
isles, a species of acrosticum, melastoma, and fern-tree.
All, or most of the land on this island, we were told, be-
longed to the chiefs of Tongataboo; the inhabitants being
only tenants or vassals to them. This seemed, indeed, to be
the case at all the neighbouring isles, except Annamooka,
where some of the chiefs seemed to act with some kind of
independence. Omai, who was much esteemed by Feenou
and many others, was tempted with the offer of being ap-
pointed a chief of this island, if he would continue among
them; and he seemed inclinable to have accepted the offer,
had he not been advised to the contrary by captain Cook,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
175
a
though not because he thought he would do better for him-
self in his native isle.
Returning from our country excursion, we heard that a
party of the natives, in the quarter where our people traded,
had struck one of their own people with a club, which frac-
tured his skull, and afterwards broke his thigh with the same
instrument. No signs of life were remaining, when he was
carried to a neighbouring house, but in a short time he re-
covered a little. On our desiring to know the reason of such
severity, we were informed that he had been discovered in
an indelicate situation with a woman who had been taboo'd.
We soon understood, however, that she was no otherwise
taboo'd than by belonging to another person, who was supe-
rior in rank to her gallant. We discovered from this circum-
stance how these people punish such infidelities. But the female
sinner, as we were informed, has a much milder punishment
for her misdemeanour, and only receives a remonstrance and
a very slight beating.
Captain Cook the next morning planted a pine-apple, and
sowed the seeds of melons, and other articles in the chief's
plantation. He had reason, indeed, to suppose that his en-
deavours of this kind would not be fruitless; for a dish of
turnips was this day served up at his dinner, which was the
produce of the seeds he had left here in 1773.
The captain having fixed upon the 15th for sailing, Taoofa
pressed him to stay a little longer, in order to receive a pre-
sent which he had prepared for him. His intreaties, toge-
ther with the daily expectation of receiving a visit from
some of his friends at Tongataboo, induced him to defer his
departure. The next day he received from the chief the
present, consisting of two little heaps of yams, and a quan-
tity of fruit, which seemed to be collected as at the other
isles. On this occasion the greatest part of the inhabitants
of the island had assembled; and, as we had many times
experienced on such numerous meetings among their neigh-
bouring islanders, it gave no small trouble to prevent their
pilfering. Cudgelling, wrestling, and boxing, were exhibited
for our entertainment; and in the latter, combatants of both
sexes engaged. The diversions were intended to have been
finished with the bomai, or night-dance; but an accident hap-
pened that either put a total stop to it, or at least prevented
our staying on shore to see it. One of our people was sur-
rounded by twenty or thirty of the natives, some of whom
knocked him down, stripped him, and carried off all his
clothes. Hearing of this, the commodore seized two canoes,

176
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
and a large hog; and insisted on the chief's not only causing
the apparel to be restored, but also on the offenders being
delivered up to him. Taoofa seemed greatly concerned at
what had happened, and took the necessary steps to satisfy
him. The people who were assembled were so alarmed at
this affair, that most of them immediately fled. However,
when they were informed that the captain meant to take no
other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. One of
the delinquents was soon delivered up to him, and a shirt
and a pair of trowsers restored. The remainder of the stolen
goods not coming in before the evening, the commodore was
obliged to leave them, in order to go aboard; the sea run-
ning so high, that it was extremely difficult for the boats to
get out of the creek even with day-light, and would be at-
tended with much more danger in the dark. He came ashore
again the next morning, bringing with him a present for
Taoofa, in return for what he had received from him. Being
early, there were but few people at the landing place, and
even those few not without their fears and apprehensions;
but on the captain's desiring Omai to assure them that we
did not mean to injure them; and having restored the canoes
and released the offender who had been delivered up to him,
they resumed their usual cheerfulness, and a large circle
was presently formed, in which the chief and the principal
men of the island took their respective places.
The remainder of the clothes were at length brought in,
but, having been torn off the man's back by pieces, they were
not thought worth carrying on board. Taoofa shared the
present he had received with three or four other chiefs, re-
serving only a small part for himself This donation so far
exceeded their expectation, that a venerable old chief told
the captain they were not deserving of it, considering how
little he had received from them, and the ill treatment one
of his people had met with. Captain Cook continued with
them till they had emptied their bowl of kava; and then,
after paying for the hog which he had taken the day before,
returned on board, in company with Taoofa, and one of
Poulaho's servants, by whom he sent a piece of bar iron, as a
parting mark of his esteem for that chief, that being as valu-
able a present as any he could possibly make.
We weighed soon after, and with a light breeze at south-
east, stood out to sea, when Taoofa, and some other natives,
left us. We found on heaving up the anchor, that the cable
had been much injured by the rocks. Besides this, we ex-
perienced that a most astonishing swell rolls in there from

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
177
the southwest. Presently, we observed a sailing canoe en-
tering the creek before which we had anchored our ships.
A few hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men,
came off to us; for having but very little wind, we were
still at no considerable distance from the land. We were
informed by these men, that the sailing canoe which we had
seen arrive, had brought directions to the people of Ecoa to
furnish us with hogs; and that the king and the other chiefs
would be with us in the space of two or three days. They
requested, therefore, that we would return to our former
station. There was no reason to doubt the truth of this in-
formation; but being now clear of the land, it was not a suf-
ficient inducement to bring us back, especially as we had
already a sufficient stock of provisions to last us in our pas-
sage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we received a
large quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange for nails, &c.
and added considerably to our supply of hogs. Finding
that we would not return, these people left us in the even-
ing, as did some others, who had come off in two canoes, with
cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, to barter for what they could
get; their eagerness to possess more of our commodities in-
ducing them to follow us out to sea, and to continue their
intercourse with us even to the last moment.
We have now taken leave of the Friendly Islands and
their inhabitants; after a cordial intercourse with the latter
for between two and three months. Some differences, in-
deed, occasionally happened, on account of their natural pro-
pensity to thieving, though too frequently encouraged by the
negligence and inattention of our people. These differences,
however, were never attended with any fatal consequences;
and few belonging to our ships parted from their friends
without some regret.
'The time employed among the natives of the Friendly
Islands,' says captain Cook, was not thrown away. We
expended very little of our sea provisions; subsisting in ge-
neral
upon the produce of the islands while we staid; and
carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient
to last till our arrival at another station where we could de-
pend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have
had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good
people, by leaving several very useful animals among them;
and, at the same time, those designed for Otaheite, received
fresh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. Upon the
whole, therefore, the advantages we received by touching
VOL. I.
2

178
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
here were very great; and I had the additional satisfaction
to reflect, that they were received, without retarding one
moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage;
the season for proceeding to the north being, as has been al-
ready observed, lost before I took the resolution of bearing
away for these islands.'
'
Iron tools are the best articles for traffic here. Axes,
hatchets, nails of all sizes, knives, rasps, and files, are much
demanded. Red cloth, white and coloured linen, looking-
glasses and beads are also in great estimation; but of the
latter, those which are blue are preferred to all others,
especially the white ones. A hog might, at any time, be
purchased by a string of large blue beads: it should, never-
theless, be observed, that articles, merely ornamental, may
be highly esteemed at one time and disregarded at another.
On our first arrival at Annamooka, the people were unwil-
ling to take them in exchange for fruit; but, when Feenou
arrived, his approbation of them brought them into vogue,
and stamped them with the value above mentioned.
In return for the commodities just enumerated, all the re-
freshments that the islands produce may be procured. The
yams produced by the Friendly Islands are excellent, and
when grown to perfection, preserve well at sea; but their
pork, plantains, and bread-fruit, are inferior in quality to the
same articles at Otaheite.
Good water is scarce in these islands. It may be found,
indeed, in all of them, but not to serve the purposes of na-
vigators; for either the situations are too inconvenient, or
the quantities too inconsiderable. Whilst we lay at anchor
under Kotoo, we were informed that there was a stream of
water at Kao, which ran from the mountains into the sea, on
the southwest side of the island. This intelligence may
probably deserve the attention of future navigators.
We must include, under the denomination of Friendly
Islands, not only the group at Hapaee, but also those which
have been discovered to the north, nearly under the same
meridian, as well as some others under the dominion of Ton-
gataboo, which is the capital and seat of government.
From the best information we could receive, this archipe-
lago is very extensive. One of the natives enumerated one
hundred and fifty islands, and Mr. Anderson procured all
their names. Sixty-one of them are marked upon our chart
of the Friendly Islands, and upon the sketch of the harbour
of Tongataboo. Keppel's and Boscawen's Islands, two of
captain Wallis's discoveries in 1765, are doubtless compre-
hended in Mr. Anderson's list.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
179
But the most considerable of all the islands that we heard
of in this neighbourhood, are Aamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee;
each of which is larger than Tongataboo; but it does not
appear that any European has ever yet seen any one of
them,
Hamoa lies two days sail northwest from Vavaoo. It is
said to be the largest of all their islands; affords harbours
and good water, and produces, in abundance, all the articles
of refreshment that are found at the places we visited.
Poulaho frequently resides upon this island; and the people
here are in high estimation at Tangataboo.
Feejee lies in the direction of northwest by west, abou
three days sail from Tongataboo. It abounds with hogs,
dogs, fowls, and such fruits and roots as are to be found in
any of the others, and is much larger than Tongataboo; but
not subject to its dominion, as the other islands of the
archipelago are. Feejee and Tongataboo often engage i
war against each other, and the inhabitants of the latter are
often so much afraid of this enemy, that they bend the body
forward, and cover the face with their hands, to express the
sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men. This is,
indeed, no matter of surprise, for those of Feejee have ren-
dered themselves formidable by their dexterity in the use of
bows and slings; but more so by their savage practice of
eating such of their enemies as they kill in battle.
It has been insisted on, that extreme hunger first occa-
sioned men to feed on human flesh; but where could be
the inducement for the Feejee people to continue the practice
in the midst of plenty? It is held in detestation by the in-
habitants of Tangataboo, who seemed to cultivate the friend-
ship of their savage neighbours of Feejee through fear;
though they occasionally venture to skirmish with them on
their own territory, and carry off large quantities of red
feathers as trophies. When a profound peace reigns between
the two islands, they have frequently intercourse together;
though it is probable they have not long been known to each
other; or, it might be supposed that Tongataboo and its
neighbouring islands, would before this time have been sup-
plied with a breed of dogs, which are numerous at Feejee,
and were not brought to Tongataboo, when captain Cook first
visited it in 1773.
The colour of the natives of Feejee was, at least, a shade
darker than that of the inhabitants of the other Friendly
Islands. We saw one of the natives of Feejee, who had his
left ear slit, and the lobe so stretched, that it almost ex-

180
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tended to his shoulder; which singularity had been observed
by captain Cook at other islands of the South Sea, during
his second voyage. The Feejee men were much reverenced
here, not only on account of their power and cruelty in war,
but also for their ingenuity; for they greatly excel the in-
habitants of Tongataboo in workmanship. Specimens were
shown us of their clubs and spears which were ingeniously
carved. We were also shown some of their beautifully
chequered cloth, variegated mats, earthen pots, and other
articles, all of which displayed a superiority in the exe-
cution.
Feejee, as has been already mentioned, is three days sail
from Tongataboo; these people having no other method of
discovering the distance from island to island, but by men-
tioning the time required for the voyage in one of their
canoes. That this might be ascertained with some precision,
captain Cook sailed in one of their canoes, and by repeated
trials with the log, found that she went close hauled, in a
gentle gale, seven miles in an hour. He supposed from this,
that they will sail, with such breezes as in general blow in
their seas, seven or eight miles an hour on an average. Each
day, however, is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours;
for when they talk of one day's sail, they mean no more
than from the morning to the evening, or ten or twelve hours
at the most. From the morning of the first day till the even-
ing of the second, is, with them, two days sail. In the day
they are guided by the sun, and in the night by stars.
When these are obscured, they can only have recourse to
the points from whence the winds and waves come upon the
vessel. If at that time the winds and waves should shift,
they are quite bewildered, often missing their intended port,
and being never heard of more. The story of Omai's coun-
trymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, convinces us,
how-
ever, that those who are not heard of, are not always lost.
The harbour and anchoring place of Tongataboo is supe-
rior to any we have met with among these islands, as well
from its great security as its capacity, and goodness of bot-
tom. The risk we ran in entering it from the north, should
caution every future commander from attempting that pas-
sage again, especially with a ship of burden, since that by
which we left it may be pursued with greater ease and
safety.
Though the harbour of Tongataboo has the preference, its
water is exceeded in goodness by that of Annamooka, and
yet
this cannot be reckoned good. Tolerable water may, ne-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
181
vertheless, be procured, by digging holes near the side of
the pond. Besides, Annamooka being nearly in the centre
of the group, is the best situated for procuring refreshments
from the others. There is a creek in the reef on the north
side of the island, wherein two or three ships may lie se-
curely.
Those who are desirous of having a more particular de-
scription of the Friendly islands, must have recourse to the
chart, where every thing is delineated as accurately as cir-
cumstances would permit. To the same chart, recourse may
also be had for tracing the several stations of the ships and
their route.
What may have been here omitted concerning the geogra-
phy of these islands, will be found in the history of captain
Cook's last voyage*; to which narrative the reader is re-
ferredt for such particulars as he had then observed. At
present, we shall only relate such interesting circumstances,
as either were omitted in that account, or were imperfectly
and incorrectly represented.
After living among them between two and three months,
it is reasonable to expect that we should be able to clear up
every difficulty, and to give a tolerably good account of their
manners, customs, and institutions, civil as well as religious;
particularly as we had a person with us, who, by understand-
ing their language as well as ours, might be enabled to act
as an interpreter. But Omai was not qualified for that task.
Unless we had before us the object or thing concerning
which we wanted information, we found it difficult to obtain
a competent knowledge from his explanations. Omai was
certainly more liable to make mistakes than we were; for,
having no curiosity, he never troubled himself with making
remarks; and when he attempted to explain matters to us,
his ideas were apparently so limited, and probably differed.
so much from ours, that his confused accounts, instead of
instructing often only perplexed Besides,
could seldom find a person among the natives who had both
the ability and inclination to give us the information we re-
quired. And many of them, we observed, appeared offend-
ed at being asked what they, perhaps, deemed frivilous
questions. At Tongataboo, where we continued the longest,
our situation was likewise unfavourable; being in a part of
the country where, except fishers, there were but few in-
*Cook's Voyage, Vol. 1. p. 211. 213.
+Ibid. p. 213. 225.
us.
we

182
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
habitants. With our visiters, as well as with those we visited,
it was always holiday; so that we could not observe what was
really the domestic way of living among the natives. That
we could not, therefore, in this situation, bring away satisfac-
tory accounts of many things, is not the least surprising.
Some of us, indeed, endeavoured by diligent observation, to
remedy those disadvantages; and we are indebted to Mr.
Anderson for a considerable share of what information we
obtained.
The Friendly Islanders seldom exceed the common sta-
ture, (though some here were above six feet in height) and
are strong and well proportioned. Their shoulders are, in
general, broad; and we saw several who were really hand-
some, though their muscular disposition rather conveyed the
idea of strength than of beauty. Their features are so various,
that unless it be by a fulness at the point of the nose, which
is common, it is impossible to fix any general likeness by
which to characterise them. On the other hand, many genu-
ine Roman noses, and hundreds of European faces, were seen
amongst them. They have good eyes and teeth; but the lat-
ter are neither so well set, nor so remarkably white as among
the Indian nations. Few of them, however, have that uncom-
mon thickness about the lips, so frequent in other islands.
The women are less distinguished from the men by their
features, than by their general form, which seems destitute
of that strong fleshy firmness that appears in the latter.
Though the features of some are very delicate, and a true
index of their sex, laying claim to a considerable share of
beauty and expression, yet the rule is not, by any means so
general as in many other countries. This is generally, how-
ever the most exceptionable part; for the bodies and limbs of
most of the females are well proportioned; and some, abso-
,
lutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the most re-
markable distinction in the women, is the uncommon small-
ness and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in com-
petition with the finest in Europe.
The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown;
but several of the men and women have a true olive com-
plexion; and some of the last are even a great deal fairer;
which is probably the effect of being less exposed to the sun;
as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the principal people,
seems to be the consequence of a more indolent life. It is
also amongst the last, that a soft clear skin is most frequently
observed. Amongst the bulk of the people, the skin is more
commonly of a dull hue, with some degree of roughness, es-
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
183
pecially the parts that are not covered; which, perhaps, may
be occasioned by some cutaneous disease. We saw a man
and boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly
white. Such have been found amongst all black nations; but
I apprehend that their colour is rather a disease, than a na-
tural phenomenon.
Upon the whole, however, few natural defects or defor-
mities are to be seen among them; though we observed two
or three with their feet bent inwards. Neither are they ex-
empt from some diseases. Vast numbers of them are affected
with the tetter or ringworm, which leaves whitish serpentine
marks behind it. But they have another disease of a more
mischievous consequence which is also very frequent, and
appears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers, dis-
charging a thin, clear pus, some of which had a very viru-
lent appearance, particularly on the face. Some, however,
appeared to be cured of it, and others mending; but it was
generally attended with the loss of the nose, or a considera-
ble part of it. It being certainly known, and even acknow-
ledged by themselves, that the natives were subject to this
disease before they were visited by the English, it cannot be
the effect of venereal contagion, notwithstanding the similari-
ty of the symptoms; unless we adopt a supposition, that the
venereal disorder was introduced here by our people in 1773.
It certainly was amongst them at this time; for soon after we
arrived there, some of our people received the infection; and
captain Cook had the mortification to learn from thence, that
all the care he took in 1773, to prevent the communication of
this dreadful disease, had proved ineffectual. They do not
seem, however, to regard it much; and as we did not see
many instances of its destroying effects, perhaps the climate,
and the way of living of these people, may abate its viru-
lence. Two other diseases are common among them; one of
which is a firm swelling, which affects the legs and arms; the
other is a tumour in the testicles, which sometimes exceed
the size of the two fists. In other respects they are remark-
ably healthy, not a single person having, during our stay,
been confined to the house by any kind of sickness. Their
strength and activity are, in every respect, answerable to their
muscular appearance; and they exert both, in such a manner,
as to prove that they are as yet little debilitated by the nu-
merous diseases that are the natural consequence of indo-
lence.
The graceful mein and firmness of step with which they
walk, are obvious proofs of their personal accomplishments.
a

184
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
They consider this as a thing so necessary to be acquired,
that their laughter was excited when they saw us frequently
stumbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities in
walking
Their countenances very remarkably express the abundant
mildness, or good nature, which they possess; and are en-
tirely free from that savage keenness which marks nations in
a barbarous state. One would, indeed, be apt to fancy that
they had been bred up under the severest restrictions, to ac-
quire an aspect so settled, and such a command of their
pas-
sions, as well as steadiness in conduct. But they are at the
same time, frank, cheerful, and good-humoured; though
,
sometimes, in the presence of their chiefs, they put on a de-
gree of gravity, and such a serious air, as becomes stiff and
awkward, and has an appearance of reserve.
Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced, from the
friendly reception all strangers have met with, who have
visited them. Instead of offering to attack them openly, or
clandestinely, as has been the case with most of the inhabi-
tants of these seas, they have never appeared in the smallest
degree hostile; but on the contrary, like the most civilized
people, have courted an intercourse with their visiters, by
bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations
in a sort of friendship. Perhaps no nation in the world traf-
fic with more honesty and less distrust. We could always
safely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them
about, one to another; and they put the same confidence in
us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods were
re-exchanged with mutual consent and good-humour. Upon
the whole, they seem possessed of many of the most excel-
,
lent qualities that adorn the human mind; such as industry,
ingenuity, perseverance, affability, and perhaps other virtues
which our short stay with them might prevent our observ-
ing:
The only defect sullying their character, that we know of,
is a propensity to thieving; to which we found those of all
ages,
and both sexes addicted, and to an uncommon degree.
It should, however, be considered that this exceptionable
part of their conduct seemed to exist merely with respect to
us; for in their general intercourse with one another, I had
reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not happen more fre-
quently (perhaps less so), than in other countries, the dis-
honest practises of those worthless individuals are not sup-
posed to authorise any indiscriminate censure on the whole
body of the people. Great allowances should be made for

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
185
men, and
the foibles of these poor natives of the Pacific ocean, whose
minds were overpowered with the glare of objects, equally
new to them, as they were captivating: Stealing amongst the
civilized and enlightened nations of the world, may well be
considered as denoting a character deeply stained with mo-
ral turpitude, with avarice unrestrained by the known rules
of right, and with profligacy producing extreme indigence,
and neglecting the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly
and other islands which we visited, the thefts so frequeatly
committed by the natives, of what we had brought along
with us, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They
seemed to arise solely from an intense curiosity, or desire to
possess something which they had not been accustomed to
before, and belonging to a sort of people so different from
themselves. And perhaps, if it were possible, that a set of
beings, seemingly as superior in our judgment, as we are
in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be doubted,
whether our natural regard to justice would be able to re-
strain many from falling into this error.
The hair of these islanders is, in general, thick, straight,
and strong; though some have it bushy or frizzled. The na-
tural colour appears to be black, but many of the
some of the women, stain it of a brown or purple colour; and
a few give it an orange cast. The first of these colours is
produced by applying a sort of plaster of burnt coral mixed
with water, the second by the raspings of a reddish wood,
mixed into a pouitice, and laid over the hair; and the third
is said to be the effeet of turmeric root.
They are so whimsical in their fashions of wearing their
hair, that it is difficult to say which is most in vogue. Some
have none on one side of the head, while it remains long on
the other side; some have only a part of it cut short; others
have parted with the whole, except a single lock on one side.
Some permit it to grow to its full length, without any of these
mutilations. The women usually wear it short. The beards
too are cut short; and both sexes strip the hair from their
arm-pits. The men are stained with a deep blue colour from
the middle of the beliy, to half way down the thighs. This
is effected with a flat bone instrument, full of fine teeth,
which by a stroke of a bit of stick, introduces the juice of
dooe dove into the skin, by which means indelible marks are
made. Lines and figures are thus traced, which in some are
very elegant. The women have only some small lines thus
imprinted, in the inside of their hands. As a mark of dis-
tinction, their kings are exempted from this custom. The
a
a
VOL. I.
A a

186
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
men are not circumcised, but rather supercised; the operation
consists in cutting off only a piece of the foreskin at the
up-
per part, which is thus rendered incapable of ever covering
the glands. They have no other aim in this operation, and
only practise it from a notion of cleanliness.
The dress of both sexes is the same; consisting of a piece
of cloth or matting, about two yards in breadth, and two
yards and a half in length. It is double before, and like a
petticoat, hangs down to the middle of the leg. That part of
the garment which is above the girdle, is plaited into several
folds, which extended, is sufficient to draw
up
and
wrap
round
the shoulders. This, as to form, is the general dress; but the
fine matting, and long pieces of cloth, are worn only by the
superior class of people. The inferior sort are contented
with small pieces, and very often have only a covering made
of leaves of plants, or the maro, a narrow piece of cloth, or
matting, like a sash. They pass this between the thighs and
round the waist. It is seldom used but by the men, in their
haivas, or grand entertainments, they have various dresses,
which, though the same in form, are embellished, more or
less, with red feathers.
Both men and women occasionally defend their faces from
the sun with little bonnets, made of various sorts of materials.
The ornaments worn by those of either sex, are the same.
Those which are most common, are necklaces, made of the fruit
of the pandanus, and various sweet smelling flowers, known by
the general name of kahulla. Others consist of small shells,
sharks' teeth, the wing and leg-bones of birds, &c. all which
are pendant upon the breast. In this manner they often wear
a polished mother-of-pearl shell, or a ring on the upper part
,
of the arm; rings of tortoise shells on the fingers; and several
of these, joined together, formed into bracelets on the wrists.
Two holes are perforated in the lobes of the ears, in which
they wear cylindrical bits of ivory, of the length of three
inches, introduced at one hole, and drawn out of the other;
or bits of reed, filled with a yellow pigment. This appears
to be a fine powder of turmeric, which the women rub all over
their bodies, in the same manner as the European ladies use
their dry rouge upon their cheeks.
Personal cleanliness is their delight, to produce which, they
bathe frequently in the ponds. Though the water has an in-
tolerable stench in most of them, they always prefer them to
the sea; and they are so sensible that their skin is injured
with salt water, that when they are obliged to bathe in the
sea, they have fresh water poured over them to wash off its
a

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
187
bad effects. They are extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut oil; a
great quantity of which they pour upon their head and
shoulders, and rub the body all over with a smaller quan-
tity.
The domestic life of these people is neither so laborious
as to be disagreeable, nor so free from employment as to suf-
fer them to degenerate into indolence. Their country has
been so favoured by nature, that the first can scarcely occur;
and their disposition appears to be a sufficient bar to the last.
By this fortunate concurrence of circumstances, their neces-
sary labour seems to yield, in its turn, to their amusements
and recreations, which are never interrupted by the thoughts
of being obliged to recur to business, till they are induced
by satiety to wish for that transition. The employment of
the women is not difficult; and is generally such as they can
execute in the house. The making of cloth is entirely en-
trusted to their care; the process of which manufacture has
been already described. Their cloth is of different degrees
of fineness: the coarser kind does not receive the impres-
sion of any pattern; but of the finer sort, they have various
patterns, differently coloured. The cloth, in general, is able to
resist water for some time; but that which has the strongest
glaze, is the least liable to be penetrated by that fluid.
Another manufacture, which is also consigned to the wo-
men, is that of their mats, which excel those of most other
countries, both with respect to their texture and their beauty.
Of these mats there are seven or eight different sorts, which
they either wear or sleep upon; and many are merely orna-
mental. The last are principally made from the tough, mem-
braneous part of the stock of the plantain-tree; those that
they wear, are generally composed of the pandanus; and the
coarser kind, on which they sleep, are formed from a plant
called evarra. There are several other articles of less im-
portance that employ their females; as combs, of which they
make great quantities; and small baskets made of the same
substance as the mats, and others composed of the fibrous
husk of the cocoa-nut, either interwoven with beads, or plain;
all which are finished with extraordinary neatness and taste.
The province of the men is, as might reasonably be expect-
ed, far more laborious and extensive than that of the other
sex. Architecture, boat-building, agriculture, and fishing, are
the principal objects of their care. As cultivated roots and
fruits form their chief subsistence, they find it necessary to
practise husbandry, which they have brought by their dili-
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188
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
plantains, they dig small holes for their reception, and after-
wards root up the surrounding grass. The instruments used
by them for this purpose are called hoo; and are nothing more
than stakes of various lengths, flattened and sharpened to an
edge at one end; and the largest ones have a short piece fix-
ed transversely, by means of which they press the implement
into the ground with the foot. When they plant the two
above-mentioned vegetables, they observe such particular ex-
actness, that which every way you turn your eyes, the rows
present themselves complete and regular.
The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees are dispersed about
without any order; and when they have arrived at a certain
height, give them little or no trouble. The same may be said
of another large tree, which produces a roundish compressed
nut, called eefee; and of a smaller tree bearing an oval nut,
with two or three triangular kernels. The kappe is in gene-
ral planted regularly, and in large spots; but the mawhaha is
interspersed among other things, as are also the yams and
jeejee. Sugar-cane is usually in small spots, closely crouded.
The mulberry of which the cloth is made, is kept very clean,
and has a good space allowed for it. The pandanus is com-
monly planted in a row, close together, at the sides of the
fields.
They display very little taste or ingenuity in the construc-
tion of their houses. Those of the lower class of people are
wretched huts, scarce sufficient to shelter them from the
weather. Those of the better sort are larger, as well as more
commodious and comfortable. A house of a middling size
is of the following dimensions, viz.about twelve feet in height,
twenty in breadth, and thirty in length. Their houses are,
properly speaking, thatched roofs or sheds, supported by
rafters and posts. The floor is raised with earth smoothed,
and covered with thick matting. Some of their habitations
are open all round; but the major part of them are enclosed
on the weather side with strong mats, or with branches of
the cocoa-nut tree, plaited or interwoven with each other. A
thick mat, about three feet broad, bent into a semicircular
form, and placed edgeways, with the ends touching the side
of the house, encloses a sufficient space for the master and
mistress to sleep in. The rest of the family sleep upon any
part of the floor, the unmarried men and women lying apart
from each other. If the family is large, there are little huts
adjoining, in which the servants sleep. Their whole furniture
consists of some wooden stools, which serve them for pil-
lows; baskets of different sizes, in which they put their combs,
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
189
a
fish-hooks, and tools; two or three wooden bowls, in which
they make kava; some cocoa-nut shells, a few gourds, and a
bundle or two of cloth.
They are very skilful in building their canoes, which, in-
deed are the most perfect of their mechanical productions.
The double ones are made sufficiently large to carry about
fifty persons, and sail at a great rate. Upon them they gene-
rally fix a hut or shed, for the reception of the master and
his family. They are made of the bread-fruit tree, and the
workmanship is extremely neat. They appear on the out-
side as if they were composed of one solid piece; but upon
closer inspection, they are found to consist of a great num-
ber of pieces, which fit each other exactly, and by means of
a ledge on the inside, are secured together with cocoa-nut
line. The single canoes are furnished with an outrigger.
The only tools which they make use of in the construction
of these boats, are hatchets, or adzes, of a smooth black
stone; augers, made of shark's teeth; and rasps, composed of
the rough skin of a fish, fastened on flat pieces of wood.
The same tools are all they have for other works, except
shells, which serve them for knives. Their cordage is made
of the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, which, though not above
ten inches long, they plait about the size of a quill, to what-
ever length is required, and roll it up in balls; from which
the ropes of a larger size are made, by twisting several of
those together. Their fishing lines are as strong and even as
our best cord. Their small hooks consist entirely of pearl-
shell; but the large ones are only covered with it on the back:
and the points of both are, in general, of tortoise-shell. With
the large hooks they catch albicores and bonnetos, by putting
them to a bamboo-rod, about twelve feet long, with a line of
the same length. They have also numbers of small seines,
some of which are of the most delicate texture.
Their musical reeds or pipes, which resemble the syrinz
of the ancients, have eight or ten pieces placed parallel to
each other, most of which are of unequal lengths. Their flutes
are made of a joint of bamboo, about eighteen inches long,
and are closed at both ends, having a hole near each end,
and four others; two of which, and only one of the first, are
used by them in playing. They close the left nostril with the
thumb of the left hand, and blow into the hole at one end
with the other nostril. The fore finger of the right hand is
applied to the lowest hole on the right, and the middle finger
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190
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
only three notes, they produce a pleasing, though simple,
music. Their naffa, or drum, has been already described.
Their warlike weapons are clubs, curiously ornamented,
spears, and darts. They also make bows and arrows; but
these are intended for amusement, such as shooting at birds,
and not for the purposes of war. Their stools, or rather pil-
lows, are about two feet long, but only four or five inches in
height, and near four in breadth, inclining downwards towards
the middle, with four strong legs and circular feet; the whole
composed of brown or black wood, neatly polished, and some-
times inlaid with ivory. They likewise inlay with ivory the
handles of fly-flaps; and with a shark's tooth, shape bones
into figures of men, birds, &c.
Their vegetable diet principally consists of plantains, co-
coa-nuts, bread-fruit, and yams. Their chief articles of ani-
mal food are hogs, fish, and fowls; but the common people
frequently eat rats. Their hogs, fowls, and turtle, however,
seem to be only occasional dainties, reserved for persons of
rank. Their food is, in general, dressed by baking, as at
Otaheite; and they make, from different sorts of fruit, seve-
ral dishes, which are very good. They sometimes boil their
fish in the green leaves of the plantain-tree, which serves as
a bag to hold both fish and water: having tied them up, they
wrap them again in three or four other leaves, and place
them upon stones heated for the purpose: when they are suf.
ficiently done, they not only eat the fish, but drink the liquor
or soup. They are not very cleanly either in their cookery,
or their manner of eating. Their usual drink at their meals
is water or cocoa-nut milk, the kava being only their morn-
ing beverage. The food that is served up to the chiefs, is
generally laid upon plantain-leaves. The king, at his meals,
.
was commonly attended upon by three or four of the natives,
one of whom cut large pieces of the fish, or of the joint,
another afterwards divided it into mouthfuls, and the rest
stood by with cocoa-nuts, and whatever else he might hap-
pen to want. We never observed a large company sit down
to a sociable meal, by eating from the same dish. The wo-
men are not excluded from taking their meals with the men;
but there are certain ranks that are not allowed either to eat
or drink together. This distinction begins with his majesty,
but we know not where it ends.
They rise at day-break, and retire to rest as soon as it be-
comes dark. They, for the most part, sleep also in the day
time, when the weather is very hot. They are fond of asso-
ciating together; in consequence of which, it is not uncom-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
191
a
mon to find several houses empty, and the possessors of them
assembled in some other house, or upon some convenient
spot in the neighbourhood, where they relax themselves by
conversation and other amusements. Their private diver-
sious chiefly consist of dancing, singing and music. When
two or three women snap their fingers, and sing in concert,
it is called oobai; but when there are more, they form seve-
ral parties, each of which sings in a different key, which con-
stitutes an agreeable melody, and is termed heeva or haiva.
The
songs are generally accompanied with the music of their
flutes. The dances both of the men and women, are per-
formed with an ease and grace which are difficult to be de-
scribed.
We could not determine with precision, whether their mar-
riages were rendered durable by any kind of solemn contract:
it is certain, however, that the major part of the people con-
tented themselves with one wife. The chiefs, indeed, com-
monly have several women, though there was only one who
(as we thought) was considered in the light of mistress of
the family. Though female chastity seemed to be held in
little estimation, not a single breach of conjugal fidelity hap-
pened, to our knowledge, during our whole continuance at
these islands; nor were the unmarried women of rank more
liberal of their favours. But there were great numbers of a
very different character.
The concern shown by these islanders for the dead, is a
strong proof of their humanity. Besides the tooge, which
,
we have mentioned before, and burnt circles and scars, they
strike a shark's tooth into their heads till the blood flows
considerably, beat their teeth with stones, and thrust spears
not only through their cheeks into their mouths, but also into
the inner part of their thighs, and into their sides. The more
painful operations, however, are only practised when they
mourn the death of those who were most nearly connected
with them. When one of them dies he is wrapped up in mats
and cloth, and then interred. The fiatookas seem to be ap-
propriated to the chiefs and other persons of distinction, as
their burial places; but the inferior people have no particular
spot set apart for their interment. It is uncertain what part
of the mourning ceremony follows immediately afterwards;
but there is something besides the general one which is con-
tinued for a considerable time, the funeral of Mareewagee's
wife being attended with ceremonies of five days duration.
They seem to consider death as a great evil, to avert which,
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192
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
during his second voyage, first visited these islands, he ob-
served that many of the natives had one or both of their
little fingers cut off; of the reason of which mutilation he
could not then obtain a satisfactory account. But he was
now informed, that they perform this operation when they
are afflicted with some dangerous disorder, which they im-
agine may bring them to the grave. They suppose that the
little finger will be accepted of by the Deity, as a kind of
propitiatory sacrifice sufficiently efficacious to procure their
recovery. In cutting it off, they make use of a stone hatchet.
There was scarcely one person in ten who was not thus mu-
tilated; and they sometimes cut so close, as to encroach up-
on that bone of the hand which joins the amputated finger.
It is also common for the lower class of people to cut off a
joint of their little finger, on account of the sickness of the
chiefs to whom they respectively belong.
W n the rigid strictness with which they perform their
mourning and religious ceremonies is considered, it might be
expected, that they endeavoured thereby to secure to them-
selves eternal happiness; but their principal object regards
things merely temporal; for they have apparently little con-
ception of future punishment for sins committed in the
pre-
sent life. They believe, however, that they meet with just
punishment upon earth; and, therefore, put every method in
practice to render their divinities propitious. They admit a
plurality of deities, all of them inferior to Kallafootonga, who
is a female, and the supreme author of most things,
residing in the heavens, and directing the wind, rain, thunder,
&c. They are of opinion, that when she is much displeased
with them, the productions of the earth are blasted, many
things consumed by lightning, and themselves afflicted with
sickness and death; but that when her anger abates, every
thing is immediately restored to its former state. Among
their subordinate deities, they mention Futtafaihe, or Foota-
fooa, who has the administration of the sea, and its produc-
tions; Toofooa-boolootoo, god of the clouds and fog; Talleteboo,
Mattaba, Tareeava, and others. The same system of religion
does not extend all over the Friendly Islands; the supreme
deity of Hapaee, for instance, being called Alo Alo. They
entertain very absurd opinions relative to the power and va-
rious attributes of these beings, who, they suppose, have no
farther concern with them after death. They have, however,
juster sentiments respecting the immortality and immaterial-
ity of the soul; which they call life, the living principle, or
an Otooa, that is, a divinity. They imagine, that immediately
they say

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
193
a
after death, the souls of their chiefs are separated from their
bodies, and go to a delightful region called Boolootoo, the god
of which is named Gooleho. By this Gooleho they probably
personify death. His country, according to their mythology,
is the general repository of the dead; and those who are once
conveyed thither, are no more subject to death, but feast on
all the favourite productions of their native soil, with which
this blissful abode is plentifully furnished. As for the souls
of people of an inferior class, they are supposed by them to
suffer a kind of transmigration; or are eaten up (they say) by
a bird called loota, which walks upon the graves with that
intent.
They do not worship any visible part of the creation, or
any thing made by their own hands. They make no offerings
of dogs, hogs, and fruit, (as is the custom at Otaheite), unless
emblematically. But there seems to be no reason to doubt
of their offering up human sacrifices. Their fiatookas, or mo-
rais, are in general, burying grounds and places of worship:
some of them, however, appeared to be appropriated only to
the former purpose; but these were small, and greatly infe-
rior to the rest.
We are very little acquainted with their form of govern-
ment. A subordination, resembling the feudal system of our
ancestors in Europe, is established among them; but of its
subdivisions, and the constituent parts, we are ignorant.
Though some of them informed us that the king's power is
unbounded, and that he has the absolute disposal of the lives
and properties of his subjects; yet the few circumstances that
offered themselves to our observation, contradicted, rather
than confirmed, the idea of despotic sway. Mareewagee,
Feenou, and Old Toobou, acted each the part of a petty so-
vereign, and not unfrequently counteracted the measures of
the king. Nor was his court superior in splendour to those
of Old Toobou and Mareewagee, who next to his majesty,
were the most potent chiefs in these islands; and, next after
them, Feenou appeared to stand highest in rank and authority.
But, however independent on the king the principal men may
be, the inferior people are totally subject to the will of the
chiefs to whom they severally belong,
The island of Tongataboo is divided into numerous dis-
tricts, each of which has its peculiar chief, who distributes
justice, and decides disputes, within his own territory. Most
of these chieftains have estates in other islands, whence they
procure supplies. The king, at stated times, receives the pro-
duct of his distant domains at Tongataboo, which is not only
VOL. I.
в b

194
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
the usual place of his residence, but the abode of most per-
sons of distinction among these islands. Its inhabitants fre-
quently call it the Land of Chiefs, and stigmatize the subor-
dinate isles with the appellations of Lands of Servants.
The chiefs are stiled by the people lords of the earth, and
also of the sun and sky. The royal family assume the name
of Futtafaihe, from the god distinguished by that appellation,
who is probably considered by them as their tutelary patron.
The king's peculiar title is simply Tooee Tonga. The order
and decorum observed in his presence, and likewise in that
of the other chiefs, are truly admirable. Whenever he sits
down, all the attendants seat themselves before him, forming
a semicircle, and leaving a sufficient space between them and
him, into which no one, unless he has particular business,
presumes to come. Nor is any one suffered to sit, or pass
behind him, or even near him, without his permission. When
a person wishes to speak to his majesty, he comes forward,
and having seated himself before him, delivers in a few words
what he has to say; then, after being favoured with an an-
swer from his seat, unless he is to receive an order; in which
case he rises from his place, and seats himself cross-legged*
before his majesty. To speak to the king standing, would
here be considered as a glaring mark of rudeness.
None of the most civilized nations have ever exceeded
these islanders in the great order and regularity maintained
on every occasion, in ready and submissive compliance with
the commands of their chiefs, and in the perfect harmony
that subsists among all ranks. Such a behaviour manifests
itself in a remarkable manner, whenever their chiefs harangue
a body of them assembled together, which frequently hap-
pens. The greatest attention and most profound silence are
observed during the harangue; and whatever might have
been the purport of the oration, we never saw a single instance,
when any one of those who were present showed signs of
his being displeased, or seemed in the least inclined to dispute
the declared will of the speaker.
It is a peculiar privilege annexed to the person of the king,
not to be punctured, nor circumcised, or rather supercised, as
all his subjects are. Whenever he walks out, all who meet
him must sit down till he has passed. No person is suffered
to be over his head; but on the contrary, all must come under
his feet. The method of doing homage to him, and the other
* It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of captain King,
that this posture is peculiar to the men; for the females always sit with
both their legs thrown a little on one side.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
195
any sort.
chiefs, is as follows: the person who is to pay obeisance,
:
squats down before the great personage, and bows the head
down to the sole of his foot, which he taps or touches with
the under and upper side of the fingers of each hand; then
rising up, he retires. We had reason to think, that his ma-
jesty cannot refuse any one who is desirous of paying him
this homage, which is called by the natives moe moea; for the
people would frequently think proper to show him these marks
of submission when he was walking; and he was on those oc-
casions obliged to stop, and hold up one of his feet behind
him, till they had performed this respectful ceremony. This,
to so corpulent and unwieldy a man as Poulaho, must have
been painful and troublesome; and we have sometimes seen
him endeavour, by running, to get out of the way, or to reach
a convenient place for sitting down. The hands, after having
been thus applied, become, in some cases, useless for a little
time; for, till they are washed, they must not touch food of
This prohibition, in a country where water is far
from being plentiful, would be attended with inconvenience,
if a piece of any juicy plant, which they can immediately
procure, being rubbed over the hands, did not serve for the
purpose of purification. When the hands are in this situa-
tion, they term it taboo rema; the former word generally sig-
nifying forbidden, and the latter implying hand. When the
taboo is incurred, by doing homage to a person of rank, it
may thus easily be washed off: but, in several other cases, it
must continue for a certain period. We have often seen wo-
men, who have been taboo rema, not fed by themselves, but by
others. The interdicted person, after the limited time has
elapsed, washes herself in one of their baths, which are, in
,
general, dirty ponds of brackish water. She then waits upon the
sovereign, and, after having paid the customary obeisance,
takes hold of his foot, which she applies to her shoulders,
breast, and other parts: he then embraces her on both shoul-
ders, and she immediately retires, purified from her unclean-
ness. If it be always necessary to have recourse to his majesty
for this purpose (of which we are not certain, though Omai
assured us it was) it may be one reason for his travelling very
frequently from one island to another.
The word taboo has a great latitude of signification. They
call human sacrifices tangata taboo; and when any particular
;
thing is prohibited to be eaten, or made use of, they say it is
taboo. They informed us, that, if the king should go into a
,
house belonging to one of his subjects, that house would in
consequence become taboo, and could never be again inhabit.

196
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ed by the owner of it; so that, wherever his majesty travels,
there are houses peculiarly assigned for his accommodation.
At this time Old Toobou presided over the taboo; that is, if
Omai did not misunderstand those who gave him the intelli-
gence, he and his deputies had the inspection of all the pro-
duce of the island, taking care that each individual should
cultivate and plant his quota, and directing what should, and
what should not, be eaten. By so prudent a regulation, they
take effectual precautions against a famine; sufficient ground
is employed in raising provisions; and every article is secur-
ed from unnecessary consumption.
When we take into consideration the number of islands of
which this state consists, and the distance at which some of
them are removed from the seat of government, attempts to
throw off the yoke of subjection might be apprehended. But
they informed us, that this circumstance never happens. One
,
reason of their not being thus embroiled in domestic commo-
tions may be this; that all their principal chiefs take up
their
residence at Tongataboo. They also secure the dependence
of the other isles, by the decisive celerity of their operations;
for if a seditious and popular man should start up in any of
them, Feenou, or whoever happens to hold his office, is im-
mediately dispatched thither to put him to death; by which
means they extinguish an insurrection while it is yet in em-
bryo.
The different classes of their chiefs seemed to be nearly as
numerous as among us; but there are few comparatively
speaking, that are lords of extensive districts of territory. It
is said, that when a person of property dies, all his posses-
sions devolve on the sovereign; but that it is customary to
give them to the eldest son of the deceased, with this condi-
tion annexed, that he should provide out of the estate, for the
other children. The crown is hereditary; and we know, from
a particular circumstance, that the Futtafaihes, of which fa-
mily is Poulaho, have reigned in a direct line, for the space
of at least one hundred and thirty five years, which have
,
elapsed between our present visit to these islands, and Tas-
man's discovery of them. Upon our inquiring of them,
whether any traditional account of the arrival of Tasman's
ships had been preserved among them till this time; we found,
that this history had been delivered down to them from their
ancestors, with great accuracy: for they said that his two ships
resembled ours, and also mentioned the place where they had
lain at anchor, their having continued but a few days, and
their quitting that station to go to Annamooka; and, for the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
197
a
purpose of informing us how long ago this affair had happen-
ed, they cummunicated to us the name of the Futtafaihe who
reigned at that time, and those who had succeeded him in
the sovereignty, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth monarch
since that period.
It might naturally be imagined, that the present sovereign
of the Friendly Isles had the highest rank of any person in
his dominions. But we found it to be otherwise; for Latoo-
libooloo, who has been already mentioned, and three women,
are superior, in some respects to Poulaho himself. These
great personages are distinguished by the title of Tammaha,
which implies a chief. When we made inquiry concerning
them, we were informed that the late king, father to Poulaho,
left behind him a sister of equal rank, and older than himself;
that she, by a native of Feejee, had a son and two daughters;
and that these three persons, as well as their mother, are of
higher rank than the king. We endeavoured to discover the
reason of this pre-eminence of the Tammahas, but without
effect. The mother, and one of her daughters, named Tooee-
la-kaipa, reside at Vavaoo. The other daughter, called Mon-
goula-kaipa, and Latoolibooloo the son, dwell at Tongataboo.
Mongoula-kaipa is the lady who has been mentioned as having
dined with captain Cook on the 21st of June. Latoolibooloo
was supposed, by his countrymen, to be disordered in his
At Eooa, or Middleburg, they showed us a consider-
able quantity of land, which was said to be his property; and
we saw there a son of his, a child, who was honoured with
the same title that his father enjoyed.
The language of these islands bears a striking resemblance
to that of New Zealand, of Otaheite, and the Society Isles.
The pronunciation of these people differs, indeed, in many
instances, from that both of Otaheite and New Zealand; but
notwithstanding that, a great number of words are either very
little changed or exactly the same. The language, as spoken
by the Friendly Islanders, is sufficiently copious to express all
their ideas; and, besides being tolerably harmonious in com-
mon conversation, is easily adapted for the purposes of mu-
sic. They have terms to signify numbers as far as a hundred
thousand, beyond which they either would not, or could not,
reckon.
The latitude of that part of Tongataboo where our obser-
vatory was erected, which was near the middle of the north
side of the island, was, according to the most accurate obser-
vations, 21° 8' 19'' south; and its longitude was 184° 55' 18''
east.
senses.
a

198
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
The tides are more considerable at the Friendly Islands,
than at any other of Captain Cook's discoveries in this ocean,
that are situate within either of the tropics. At Annamooka
the tide rises and falls about six feet upon a perpendicular.
At Tongataboo it rises and falls four feet and three quarters,
on the full and change days; and three feet and a half at the
quadratures.

A VOYAGE
TO
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK III.
Island of Toobouai discovered-Arrival at Otaheite-Omai's reception
Otaheite visited by the Spaniards—Their attempts to depreciate the cha-
racter of the English-Interview with Waheiadooa, the chief of Tiaraboo
-Omai'simprudent conduct--Poultry and cattle lefton the Island-Cap-
tain Cook admitted into a council of the chiefs-Reflections on a human
sacrifice-Heevas described-Girls dressed to bring a present-Man-
ner of preserving the body of a dead chief-Riding on horseback-Mock
fight between two war canoes—Manner ofconducting the war-Acurious
medical operation-Otoo's art-Omai's war canoe-Naval power, &c. 3
а
We had now taken our final leave of the Friendly Islands.
On the 17th of July, at eight o'clock in the evening, Eooa
bore northeast by north, distant three or four leagues. The
wind blew a fresh gale at east. We stood to the south, till after
six o'clock the next morning, when, from the same direction,
a sudden squall took our ship aback; and before we could
trim the ships on the other tack, the main-sail and the top
gallant sails were considerably torn.
On the 19th and 20th, the wind kept between the south-
west, and southeast; then it veered to the east, northeast,
and north.
We stretched to the east-southeast, without meeting with any
thing remarkable, till the 29th, at seven o'clock in the even-
ing, when we had a very heavy squall of wind from the north.
We were, at this time, under single-reefed top-sails, courses,
and stay-sails. Two of the latter were almost demolished
by the wind, and it was with the utmost difficulty that we
saved the other sails. This squall being over, we saw seve-

200
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ral lights moving about on board the Discovery; whence wo
conjectured that something had given way; and, the next
morning, we perceived that her main-topmast had been lost.
Both wind and weather remained very unsettled till noon,
when the latter cleared up, and the former settled in the north-
west quarter. Our latitude was now 28° 6' south, and our
longitude was 198° 23' east. We saw some pintado birds,
which were the first we had seen, since we left the land.
At noon, on the 31st, captain Clerke made a signal to speak
with captain Cook; and afterwards informed him, that the
head of the mainmast had sprung, and in such a manner, as
to render the rigging of another topmast extremely danger-
ous; that he must therefore rig something lighter in its place.
He further informed him, that he had lost his maintop-gal-
lant-yard; and had not another on board, nor a spar to make
one. Captain Cook sent him the Resolution's spritsail top-
sail-yard, which supplied this want for the present. The next
day, by getting up a jury topmast, on which he set a mizen-
topsail, he was enabled to keep way with the Resolution.
We steered east-northeast, and northeast, without meeting
with any remarkable occurrence till the morning of the 8th
of August, at eleven o'clock, when land was observed bear-
ing northeast, about nine or ten leagues distant. At first it
appeared like so many separate islands; but, as we approach-
ed, we found it was all connected, and formed one and the
same island. We steered directly for it with a fine gale, and,
at half past six in the afternoon, it extended from north by
east, to north-northeast, distant three or four leagues.
At daybreak, the next morning, we steered for the north-
west side of the island, and as we stood round its southwest
part, we saw it guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending, in
some places, at least a mile from the land, and a high surf
breaking upon it. As we drew near, we saw people walking
or running along shore, on several parts of the coast, and, in
a short time after, when we had reached the lee-side of the
island, we saw two canoes lanched, in which were about a do
zen of men, who paddled towards us.
In order to give these canoes time to come up with us, as
well as to sound for anchorage, we shortened sail, and at the
distance of half a mile from the reef, we found from forty to
thirty-five fathoms water. The canoes, after having advanc-
,
ed within pistol shot of the ships, suddenly stopped. Omai
was desired, as was usual on such occasions, to endeavour
to prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no
arguments could induce them to trust themselves within
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
901
a
our reach. They often pointed eagerly to the shore with
their paddles, at the same time calling to us to go thither; and
many of their people who were standing upon the beach,
held up something white in their hands, which we construed
as an invitation for us to come to land. We could easily
have accomplished this, there being good anchorage without
the reef, and an opening in it, through which the canoes had
passed, which had no surf upon it. But the captain did not
chuse to risk the advantage of a fair wind, in order to exam-
ine an island, that appeared to be but of little consequence.
We required no refreshments, if wehad been certain of meet-
ing with them there, and therefore, after making several un
successful attempts to prevail upon these people to come near
us, we made sail to the north, and left them; having first
learned that the name of their island was Toobouai. It is
situated in the latitude of 23° 25' south; and in 210: 37' east
longitude.
The greatest extent of this island, in any direction, is not
above five or six miles. Small, however, as it appears, there
are hills in it of a considerable elevation; at the foot of which,
is a narrow border of flat land, extending almost all round it,
bordered with a white sand beach. The hills are covered
with herbage, except a few rocky cliffs, with patches of trees
interspersed to their summits. This island, as we were in
formed by the men in the canoes, is plentifully stocked with
hogs and fowls; and produces the several kinds of fruits and
roots that are to be met with at the other islands in this
neighbourhood.
From the conversation we had with those who came off to
us, we discovered that the inhabitants of Toobouai speak the
Otaheite language: an indubitable proof that they are of the
same nation. Those whom we saw in the canoes, were a
stout copper-coloured people; some wearing their hair (which
was straight and black) flowing about the shoulders, and others
having it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their
faces were roundish and full, but the features flat; and their
countenances expressed a degree of natural ferocity. Their
covering was a piece of narrow stuff wrapped round the
waist, and passing between the thighs; but some of those
whom we beheld upon the beach, were completely clothed in
white. Some of our visiters in the canoes, had their necks
ornamented with pearl-shells; and one of them continued
blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed, of about two
feet long, was fixed; he began in a long tone, without any
variation; and afterwards converted it into a kind of musi.
VOL. I.
G C

202
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
cal instrument. Whether the blowing of the conch, portend.
ed any thing, we cannot say, but we never found it the mes
senger
of
peace.
The length of their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet,
and they rose about two feet above the surface of the water,
as they floated. The fore-part projected a little; the after-
part rose to the height of two or three feet, with a gradual
curve, and like the upper part of the sides, was carved all
over. The rest of the sides were ornamented with flat white
shells curiously disposed. There were eight men in one of
the canoes, and seven in the other. They were conducted
with small paddles, whose blades were almost circular; and,
they sometimes paddled with the two opposite sides so close
together, that they appeared to be but one boat; the rowers
occasionally turning their faces to the stern, and pulling that
way, without paddling the canoes round. Seeing we were
determined to leave them they stood up, and repeated some-
thing aloud; but we knew not whether they were expressing
their enmity, or friendship. It is certain, however, that they
had not any weapons with them; nor could we with our glas-
ses discover, that those on shore were armed.
Leaving the island, we steered to the north with a fresh
gale, and at day break on the 12th, we perceived the island of
Maitea. Otaheite appeared soon after; the point of Ohei-
tepeha bay bearing west, about four leagues distant. We
steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to
draw some refreshments from the southeast point of the
island, before we proceeded to Matavai, where we expected
our principal supply. We had a fresh gale till two o'clock in
the afternoon; when, at about a league from the bay, the wind
suddenly died away. About two hours after, we had sudden
squalls with rain, from the east. About nine o'clock, we were
obliged to stand out, and spend the night at sea.
When we came near the island, several canoes came off to
the ship, each conducted by two or three men. But, as they
were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them,
nor they of him. They did not even seem to perceive that
he was one of their countrymen, although they conversed
with him for some time. At length, a chief whom I had
known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who
chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or
four more persons all of whom knew Omai, before he embark-
ed with captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was
nothing either tender or striking in their meeting. On the
contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both
a

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
203
sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin,
opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave
him a few. This being presently known, ainongst the rest of
the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned,
and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now
begged that they might be tayos (friends) and exchange names.
Omai accepted the honour and confirmed it with a present of
red feathers; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a
hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not
the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had he
not shown to them his treasure of red feathers, which is the
commodity in greatest estimation at the island, I question
much whether they would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut
upon him. Such was Omai's first reception among his coun-
trymen. I own, I never expected it would be otherwise; but
still I was in hopes, that the valuable cargo of presents, with
which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him,
would be the means of raising him into consequence, and of
making him respected, and even courted, by the first
persons
throughout the extent of the Society Islands. This could
not but have happened, had he conducted himself with
any
degree of prudence. But, instead of it, I am sorry to say,
that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those
who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by
every designing knave.
The important news of red feathers being on board our
ships, having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day
had no sooner begun to break next morning, than we were
surrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people
bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first, a quantity of
feathers, not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit,
would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But,
as almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of
this precious article of trade, it fell in its value above six
hundred per cent. before night. However, even then, the
balance was much in our favour; and red feathers continued
preserve their superiority over every other commodity.
Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unless they re-
ceived an axe in exchange; but nails, beads, and other trinkets,
which, during our former voyages, had so great a run at this
island, were now so much despised, that few would deign to
look at them.
In the morning of the 13th, captain Cook came to anchor
in a bay called Oheitepeha. Soon after, Omai's sister came
on board to see him; and the captain was happy to observe,
to

204
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
that much to the honour of each, their meeting was marked
with expressions of the most tender affection. After this
moving scene, Omai and the captain went ashore. Here the
attention of the former was soon drawn to an old woman, the
sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had
bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy. The captain left
him with the old lady, encircled by a number of people, in
order to
go
and take a view of a house and cross erected by
the Spaniards. When he returned, he found Omai holding
forth to a large company; and it was with some difficulty he
could be got away to accompany the captain on board. Cap-
tain Cook, it seems, had found from the natives, that two
Spanish ships from Lima had twice put into Oheitepeha bay,
since his last visit in 1774. They had left some hogs, dogs,
goats, a bull, and a ram, on shore. The first time they came,
they built a house, and left four men behind them, carrying away
four of the natives. In about ten months the same ships returned,
bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died
at Lima, After a short stay, they took away their own people,
but left the house standing. This was situated at a small dis-
tance from the beach. The wooden materials of which it was
composed, seemed to have been brought, ready prepared, to set
up occasionally; for all the planks were numbered. It was
divided into two small rooms; and, in the inner one, were a
bench, a table, a bedstead, some old hats, and other trifles, of
which the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the
house itself, which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a
shed having been built over it. There were scuttles all round,
which served as air-holes: and perhaps they were also meant
to fire from, with muskets, if ever it should be found neces.
sary. At some distance, stood a wooden cross, on the trans-
verse part of which was cut
CHRISTIS VINCIT.
And on the perpendicular part was
CAROLUS III. IMPERIT. 1774.
On the other side of the post, captain Cook took care to pre-
serve the memory of the prior visits of the English, by in-
scribing
GEORGIUS TERTIUS Rex,
Annis 1767,
1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.
Near the foot of this cross was the grave of the commo-
dore of the two ships, who died here, while they lay in
the bay, the first time. The Spaniards seemed to have taken
great pains to ingratiate themselves with the inhabitants, who

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
205
on every occasion, mentioned them with the strongest ex-
pressions of esteem and veneration. The former, however,
did not succeed in their attempts to depreciate the character
of the English. One of the four persons whom they left
behind, and whom the natives called Mateema, made himself
very popular. He took uncommon pains to study their lan-
guage, that he might be enabled to impress their minds with
the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish mon-
archy, and make them think meanly of the English. He even
went so far as to assure them, that we no longer existed as
an independent nation; that Pretane was only a small island
which they (the Spaniards) had entirely destroyed; and that
as for captain Cook, they had met with him at sea, and with a
few shot, had sent his ship, with every soul in her, to the
bottom. All this, and many other improbable falsehoods,
did the Spaniards make this people believe. But, if Spain
had no other views, in this expedition, than to depreciate the
English, she had better have kept her ships at home; for
captain Cook's return to the island (which, in course, was
quite unexpected) was considered as a complete refutation of
all that Mateema had said.
Waheiadooa, sovereign of Tiaraboo, (which was the name
of this part of the island) was now absent. However, he
soon after sent a message to notify his arrival, and to desire
that the captain would visit him ashore. This was not the
same person, though of the same name, with the chief, whom
captain Cook had seen here during his last voyage; but his
brother, a boy about ten years old, who had succeeded on the
death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months before,
and was now under the tutorage of a chief, named Etorea.
The celebrated queen Oberea was dead. Accordingly,
Omai and the captain prepared to make him a formal visit.
On this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends,
dressed himself: not after the English fashion, nor that of
Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any
country upon earth; but in a strange medley of all that he
was possessed of. There was nothing remarkable in this in-
terview, except the information which captain Cook receiv-
ed, that the Spaniards, when they visited the island, had de-
sired the chiefs not to suffer him to enter Oheitepeha Bay, if
he should return again, for that the island belonged to them.
But the person, says captain Cook, who addressed me
with this information, assured me, that they were so far from
paying any regard to this request, that he was authorised
now to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo
a

206
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
to me, and every thing in it; which marks very plainly, that
these people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating
themselves to present circumstances. At length, the young
chief was directed, by his attendants, to come and embrace
me; and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we
exchanged names. The ceremony being closed, he and his
friends accompanied me on board to dinner.
Omai had prepared a maro, composed of red and yellow
feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole
island, and considering where we were, it was a present of
very great value. I said all that I could to persuade him
not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on board till an
opportunity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with his own
hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and fi-
delityof his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would serve
him, but to carry it ashore, on this occasion, and to give it
to Waheiadooa, to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to
its being added to the royal maro. He thought by this ma-
nagement, that he should oblige both chiefs; whereas he high-
ly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the most conse-
quence to him, without gaining any reward from the other.
What I had foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the maro
himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers;
not the twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent
present.
On the 19th, captain Cook received from the young chief,
,
a present of ten or a dozen of hogs, some cloth, and a quan-
sity of fruit. In the evening, we exhibited some fire-works,
,
which both pleased and astonished the numerous spectators.
Some of our gentlemen, in their walks, discovered, as they
thought, a Roman Catholic chapel. They described the
.
altar which they said they had seen, and every other consti-
,
tuent part of such a place of worship. They mentioned,
however,
that two persons who had the care of it, would not
permit them to go in; on which account the captain imagined
they were mistaken, and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it
himself. The supposed chapel happened to be a toopapaoo,
in which the body of the late Waheiado lay, in a kind of
state. It was in a pretty large house, enclosed with a low
palisade. The toopapuoo was remarkably neat, and resem.
bled one of those little awnings over their large canoes. It
was hung and covered with cloths and mats of a variety of
colours, which had a beautiful effect. One piece of scarlet
broad cloth of the length of four or five yards, appeared con-
spicuous among the other ornaments; which had probably
a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
207
a
been received as a present from the Spaniards. This cloth,
and some tassels of feathers, suggested to our gentlemen the
idea of a chapel; and their imagination supplied whatever else
was wanting to create a resemblance; hearing that the Spa-
niards had visited this place, might also operate on their
minds upon this occasion, and add to the probability of its
being a chapel. Small offerings of fruits and roots seemed
to be daily made at this shrine, some pieces being now quite
fresh. These were deposited on a kind of altar, which stood
without the palisades; within which we were not permitted
to enter. Two men constantly attended here, both night and
day; as well to watch over the place, as to dress and undress
the toopapaoo. When captain Cook went to survey it, the
cloth and its appendages were rolled up; but, at his request,
the two attendants placed it in order, but not till after they
had dressed themselves in clean white robes. The chief,
we were informed, had been dead about twenty months.
Having provided a fresh supply of water, and finished all
our necessary operations, on the 22d we brought off our ani-
mals from shore, and made ready for sea. While the ships
were unmooring, Omai and captain Cook landed, in the
morning of the 23d, to take leave of the young chief. While
,
they were with him, one of those persons, whom they call Ea-
toos, from a persuasion that they possess the spirit of the di-
vinity, presented himself before them. He had all the appear-
ances of insanity about him, and his only covering was a
quantity of plantain leaves wrapped round his waist. He ut-
tered what he had to say in a low, squeaking voice, so as
hardly to be understood. But Omai said he perfectly com-
prehended him, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to
accompany captain Cook to Matavai, an expedition which he
had never known that he intended, nor had the captain ever
made such a proposal to him. The Eatooa also predicted,
that the ships would not arrive that day at Matavai. In this,
however, he was mistaken; though appearances, at that time,
favoured his assertion, as there was not a single breath of
wind in any direction. While he was delivering his prophe-
cy, a heavy shower of rain came on, which occasioned all to
run for shelter, except himself, who appeared to disregard
it. He continued squeaking about half an hour, and then re-
tired. No attention was paid to what he uttered, though
some of the natives laughed at him.
Captain Cook asked the chief, whether he was an Earee
or a Towtow? The answer he received was, that he was
taata eno, that is, a bad man. And yet, notwithstanding

208
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
this, and the little notice taken of the mad prophet, supersti-
tion so far governs the natives, that they absolutely believe
such
persons to be possessed with the spirit of the Eatooa.
Omai seemed to be well instructed concerning them. He
said, that during the fits, with which they are seized, they
know nobody, and that if any one of them is a man of pro-
perty, he will then give away every moveable he possesses,
if his friends do not put them out of his reach; and, when he
recovers, he seems not to have the least remembrance of
what he had done during the time the fit was upon
him.
Soon after the captain got on board, a light breeze spring-
ing up at east, we got under sail, and the Resolution anchor-
ed, the same evening, at Matavai bay; but the Discovery
did not get in till the next morning; consequently the man's
prophecy was half fulfilled.
On the 24th of August, captain Cook left the bay of
Oheitepeha, and in the evening anchored in Matavai bay, in
another part of the island, whence he expected his principal
supply. Here he and Omai had an interview, on shore,
with Otoo, the king of the whole island. Omai, says the
captain, had prepared himself for this ceremony, by dressing
himself in his very best clothes, and behaved with a great
deal of respect and modesty. Nevertheless, very little no-
tice was taken of him. Perhaps, envy had some share in
producing this cold reception. He made the chief a present
of a large piece of red feathers, and about two or three
yards of gold cloth; and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a
gold laced hat, some tools, and, what was of more value
than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers, and one
of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands.
After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the
whole royal family, accompanied me on board, followed by
several canoes, laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity
sufficient to have served the companies of both ships for a
week. Each of the family owned, or pretended to own, a
part; so that I had a present from every one of them; and every
one of them had a separate present in return from me; which
was the great object in view. Soon after, the king's mother,
who had not been present at the first interview, came on board
bringing with her a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she
divided between me and Omai. For although he was but little
noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained
the knowledge of his riches, than they began to court his
friendship. I encouraged this as much as I could; for it
was my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
209
all my European animals at this island, I thought he would
be able to give some instruction about the management of
them, and about their use. Besides, I knew, and saw,
that
the farther he was from his native island, he would be the
better respected. But, unfortunately, poor Omai rejected
,
my advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a manner,
that he soon lost the friendship of Otooa, and of every other
person of note in Otaheite. He associated with none but
vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder
him. And, if I had not interfered, they would not have left
him a single article worth carrying from the island. This
necessarily drew upon him the ill-will of the principal chiefs;
who found that they could not procure, from any one in the
ships, such valuable presents, as Omai bestowed on the low-
est of the people, his companions.
Captain Cook was next engaged in landing the poultry,
with which he was to stock the island. They consisted of a
peacock and hen, a turkey-cock and hen, a gander and three
geese, a drake and four ducks. All these he left at Oparre,
in the possession of Otoo; and the geese and ducks began to
breed before he sailed. At Oparre, he found a gander,
which the natives said was the same that captain Wallis had
given Oberea ten years before; several goats; and the Span-
ish bull; which latter could have been of no use, if captain
Cook had not arrived; as the Spaniards had left no cows
ashore. Probably, they died in their passage from Lima.
Captain Cook sent three cows to this bull; and the bull which
he himself had brought, with the horse and mare, and sheep,
he put ashore at Matavai. He likewise planted a piece of
ground with several articles, very few of which he believed
the natives would ever look after. Some melons, potatoes,
and two pine-apple plants, were in a fair way of succeeding,
before he left the place. He also planted several shaddock
trees, which he had brought from the Friendly islands.
These, he thought, could hardly fail of success, unless their
growth should be impeded by the same premature curiosity,
which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheite-
peha. A number of the natives got together, to taste the
first fruit it bore; but, as the grapes were still sour, they con-
sidered it as little better than poison, and it was unanimously
determined to tread it under foot. In that state, Omai found
it by chance, and was overjoyed at the discovery: for he had
a full confidence, that if he had but grapes, he could easily
make wine. Accordingly, he had several slips cut off from
the tree, to carry away with him; and the remainder of it
D d
VOL. I,

210
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
was pruned, and put in order. Perhaps, becoming wise by
Omai's instructions, they may now suffer the fruit to grow to
perfection, and not pass so hasty a sentence upon it again.
As captain Cook intended to continue here a considerable
time, we set up our two observatories on Matavai point;
and adjoining to them, two tents were pitched, for the re-
ception of a guard, and of such people as might be left on
shore, in different departments. The command at this sta-
tion was entrusted to Mr. King; who also attended the as-
tronomical and other observations. While we remained here,
the crews of both ships were occupied in many necessary
operations. The Discovery's main-mast was carried ashore,
and made as good as it had ever been before. Our sails and
water-casks were repaired; both our ships were caulked; and
the rigging was completely overhauled. We likewise in-
spected the bread that we had on board in casks, and found
that but little of it was damaged.
At Matavai, captain Cook renewed his intercourse with
all his old friends, whose names are recorded in his account
of his second voyage; and, while there, one of the natives,
whom the Spaniards had carried with them to Lima, paid
him a visit. Though not to be distinguished, in appearance,
from the rest of his countrymen, he had not forgot some
Spanish words. Among them the most frequent were,
Sennor; and when a stranger was introduced to him, he did
not fail to rise up and accost him as well as he could.
We also found here, says captain Cook, the young man
whom we called Oedidee, but whose real name is Heeteheete.
I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him
back in 1774; after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New
Zealand, Easter island and the Marqueses, and being on
board my ship, in that extensive navigation, about seven
months. He was at least as tenacious of his good breeding,
as the man who had been at Lima; and yes, Sir, or if you
please, Sir, were as frequently repeated by him, as si Sennor,
was by the other. Heeteheete, who is a native of Bolabola,
had arrived in Otaheite, about three months before, with no
other intention, that we could learn, than to gratify his curi-
osity, or perhaps, some other favourite passion: which are,
very often, the only objects of the pursuit of other travelling
gentlemen. It was evident, however, that he preferred the
modes, and even garb, of his countrymen, to ours. For
though I gave him some clothes, which our Admiralty Board
had been pleased to send for his use to which I added a
chest of tools, and a few other articles, as a present from
si

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
211
myself), he declined wearing them after a few days. This
instance, and that of the person who had been at Lima, may
be urged as a proof of the strong propensity natural to man,
of returning to habits acquired at an early age, and only in-
terrupted by accident. And, perhaps, it may be concluded,
that even Omai, who had imbibed almost the whole English
manners, will, in a very short time after our leaving him,
like Oedidee, and the visiter of Lima, return to his own na-
tive garments.
In the morning of the 27th, a man from Oheitepeha in-
formed us that two Spanish ships had anchored in that bay
the preceding night; and to confirm this intelligence, he pro-
duced some coarse blue cloth, which, he said, he had got out
of one of the ships. He further said, that Mateema was in
one of the ships; and that they would come to Matavai in
two or three days. These, and some other circumstances,
which he mentioned, gave the story so much the appearance
of truth, that the commodore despatched lieutenant William-
son, in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha bay; and in the mean
time, both our ships were put in a posture of defence. For
though England and Spain were at peace when he left England,
he did not know but that a different scene might, by this
time, have opened. Upon inquiry, however, we had reason
to imagine, that the relater of the story had imposed upon
us; and this was put beyond all doubt, when Mr. Williamson
returned the day following, who made his report to captain
Cook, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no
ships were there at present, nor had any been there since we
left it. The people of this part of the island, where we now
were stationed, told us, indeed, at first, that it was a fiction
invented by those of Tiaraboo. But what view they could
have, we could not conceive, unless they supposed that the
report would induce us to quit the island, and thus deprive
the inhabitants of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might
otherwise reap from our ships remaining there; the natives
;
of the two parts of the island being inveterate enemies to
each other. Since we arrived at Matavai, the weather had
been unsettled till the 29th; before which day we were un-
able to get equal altitudes of the sun for ascertaining the go-
ing of the time-keeper. The caulking and other repairs of
the ships were also retarded by the same cause. In the
evening of this day, the islanders made a precipitate retreat,
both from our land station, and from on board the ships.
We conjectured that this arose from their knowing that some
theft had been committed, and apprehending punishment

212
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
upon that account. At length, we became acquainted with
the whole affair. One of the surgeon's mates had made an
excursion into the country to purchase curiosities, and had
taken with him four hatchets for the purpose of exchange.
Having been so imprudent as to employ a native to carry
them, the fellow took an opportunity of running off with so
valuable a prize. This was the reason of the sudden flight,
in which Otoo himself, and all his family, had joined; and it
was with difficulty that the captain stopped them, after fol-
lowing them for the space of two or three miles. As he had
determined to take no measures for the recovery of the
hatchets, that his people for the future might be more upon
their guard against such negligence, every thing quickly re-
sumed its former tranquillity.
The next morning, some messengers arrived from Eimeo,
with intelligence, that the people of that island were in arms;
and that Otoo's partizans there had been obliged by the op-
posite party to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between
the two islands, which began in 1774, had partly subsided
ever since. A formidable armament had sailed soon after
captain Cook left Otaheite in his last voyage; but the male-
contents of Eimeo had made so gallant a resistance that the
fleet had returned without success; and now another expedi-
tion was deemed necessary. On the arrival of these messen-
gers,
the chiefs assembled at Otoo's house, where the captain
actually was at that time, and had the honour of being ad-
mitted into their council. One of the messengers opened the
business with a speech of considerable length, the purport of
which was to explain the situation of affairs in Eimeo, and
to excite the Otaheitean chiefs to arm on the occasion. This
opinion was opposed by others who were against commencing
hostilities; and the debate was for some time, carried on with
great order and decorum. At length, however, they became
very tumultuous, and the captain began to expect that their
meeting would conclude like a Polish diet. But the contend-
ing chiefs cooled as fast as they grew warm, and order was
speedily restored. In the end, the party for war prevailed;
and it was resolved, though not unanimously, that a strong
force should be sent to Eimeo. Otoo said very little during
the whole debate. Those of the council, who were inclinable
for war, applied to the captain for his assistance; and all of
them were desirous of knowing what part he would take.
Omai was sent for to act as interpreter; but, as he could not
be found the captain being under a necessity of speaking for
himself, told them, as well as he could, that as he was not

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
213
perfectly acquainted with the dispute, and as the natives of
Eimeo had never given him the least cause of offence, he
could not think of engaging in hostilities against them. With
this declaration, they either were, or appeared to be satisfied.
The council was then dissolved; but before the captain re-
tired, Otoo desired him to come again in the afternoon, and
bring Omai with him.
A party of us accordingly waited upon him at the appoint-
ed time; and he conducted us to his father, in whose presence
the dispute with Eimeo was again discussed. The commo-
dore being very desirous of effecting an accommodation,
sounded the old chief on that subject, but he was deaf to any
such proposal, and fully determined to carry on hostilities.
On our inquiring into the cause of the war, we were inform-
ed, that several years ago, a brother of Waheiadaoo of Ti-
araboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the desire of Maheine, a po-
pular chief of that island, to be their king; but he had not
been there many days, before Maheine having caused him to
be put to death, set up for himself, in opposition to Tierata-
boonooe, nephew of the deceased, who now became the law-
ful heir, or perhaps had been appointed, by the people of
Otaheite, to succeed to the government on the death of the
other.
Towha, who is related to Otoo, and chief of the district
of Tettaha, and who had been commander in chief of the ar-
mament sent against Eimeo in 1774, happened not to be at
Mattavai at this time, and therefore, was not present at these
consultations. It appeared, however, that he was no stranger
to what was transacted; and that he entered into the affair
with great eagerness and spirit. For, on the first of Septem-
ber, a messenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo, that he
had killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, with the view
of imploring the assistance of the deity against Eimeo. This
ceremony was to be performed at the great morai, at Atta-
hooroo; and Otoo's presence was necessary on the occasion.
Captain Cook was desirous of being present at this solemni-
ty, and therefore proposed to Otoo, that he might be permit-
ted to accompany him. To this the king readily consented;
and they immediately set out in the captain's boat, with his
old friend Potatou, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Webber, while
Omai followed them in a canoe. In their way they landed
upon a small island, lying off Tettaha, where they found
Towha and his attendants. After a little conversation between
the two chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed
himself to the captain, soliciting his assistance. When he
a

214
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
а.
excused himself, Towha seemed displeased; thinking it ra-
ther extraordinary, that one who had constantly declared
himself the friend of their island, should now refuse to fight
against its enemies. Before they parted, Towha gave to Otoo
two or three red feathers, tied up in a tuft; our party then re-
embarked, having taken on board a priest who was to assist
at the solemnity.
As soon as they landed at Attahooroo, which was about
two o'clock, Otoo desired that the sailors might be ordered
to continue in the boat; and that captain Cook, Mr. Ander-
son, and Mr. Webber, would take off their hats as soon as
they should come to the morai, to which they immediately
proceeded, attended by numbers of men, and some boys; but
not one woman was present. They found four priests, with
their assistants, waiting for them. The dead body or sacri-
fice, was in a small canoe, that lay on the beach, fronting the
morai. Two of the priests, with several of their attendants,
were sitting by the canoe; the others at the morai. Our
company stopped at the distance of twenty or thirty paces
from the priests. Here Otoo placed himself; our gentlemen,
and a few others, standing by him, while the majority of the
people were removed at a greater distance.
The ceremonies now commenced. One of the attendants
of the priests brought a young plantain-tree, and laid it down
before the king. Another approached, bearing a small tuft of
red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the cocoa-nut husk,
with which he touched one of Otoo's feet, and afterwards
retired with it to his companions. One of the priests who
were seated at the morai, now began a long prayer; and at
particular times, set down young plantain-trees, which were
placed upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, an islander,
who stood by the officiating priest, held in his hands two
bundles, in one of which, as we afterwards found, was the
royal maro; and the other, if we may be allowed the expres-
sion, was the ark of the Eatooa. The prayer being finished,
the priests at the morai, with their assistants, went and sat
down by those who were upon the beach, carrying the two
bundles with them. They here renewed their prayers, during
which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at various
times, from off the dead body, which, being wrapped up in
cocoa-leaves and small branches, was now taken out of the
canoe, and laid upon the beach. The priests placed them-
.
selves around it; some standing, and others sitting; and one,
or more of them, repeated sentences for about ten minutes.
The body was now stripped of the leaves and branches, and

A VOYAGE TO TIIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
215
a
placed parallel with the sea-shore. Then one of the priests,
standing at the feet of the corpse, pronounced a long prayer,
in which he was occasionally joined by the others, each of
them holding a tuft of red feathers in his hand. During this
prayer, some hair was pulled off the head of the intended
sacrifice, and the left eye was taken out; both which being
wrapped up in a green leaf, were presented to the king; who,
however, did not touch them, but gave to the man who pre-
sented them, the tuft of red feathers which he had received
from Towha. This, with the eye and hair, was taken to the
.
priests. Not long after his majesty sent them another piece
of feathers. In the course of this last ceremony, a king-
fisher making a noise in the trees, Otoo turned to captain
Cook, saying, “That is the Eatooa;' and seemed to consider
it as a favourable prognostic.
The corpse was then carried a little way, and laid under a
tree; near which were fixed three thin pieces of wood vari-
ously carved. The bundles of cloth were placed on a part
of the morai; and the tufts of red feathers were laid at the
feet of the dead body, round which the priests stationed
themselves; and our gentlemen were now permitted to go as
near as they pleased. He who seemed to be the chief priest
spoke for about a quarter of an hour, with different tones
and gestures; sometimes appearing to expostulate with the
deceased; at other times, asking several questions; then mak-
ing various demands, as if the dead person either had power
himself, or interest with the deity, to engage him to grant
such requests; among which he desired him to deliver Eimeo,
Moheine its chief, the women, hogs, and other things of the
island, into their hands; which was, indeed, the express ob-
ject of the sacrifice. He then prayed near half an hour, in
a whining tone, and two other priests joined in the prayer, in
,
the course of which a priest plucked some more hair from
the head of the corpse, and put it upon one of the bundles.
The chief priest now prayed alone, holding in his hand the
feathers received from Towha. Having finished, he gave
them to another priest, who prayed in like manner; then all
the tufts of feathers were placed upon the bundles of cloth,
which concluded the ceremony at this place.
The dead body was now carried to the most conspicuous
part of the morai, with the feathers and the two bundles of
cloth, while the drums beat slowly. The feathers and bundles
were laid against the pile of stones, and the body at the foot
of them. The priests having again seated themselves round
the corpse, renewed their prayers, while some of their as-

216
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
sistants dug a hole about the depth of two feet, into which
they threw the victim, and covered it over with stones and
earth. While they were committing the body to the grave, a
,
boy squeaked aloud, upon which Omai said to captain Cook,
that it was the Eatooa. A fire having been made in the mean
time, a lean half starved dog was produced, and killed by
twisting his neck. The hair was then singed off, and the en-
trails being taken out, were thrown into the fire, where they
were left to be consumed; but the kidney, heart, and liver,
were only roasted, by being put on heated stones; and the
carcass of the dog, after being rubbed over with the blood,
was, with the liver, &c. laid down before the priests, who
were seated round the grave, praying. They for some time
uttered ejaculations over the dog, while two men, at inter-
vals, beat very loud on two drums; and a boy screamed, in
a loud shrill voice, three times. This, they said, was to
invite the Eatooa to feast on the banquet that they had pro-
vided for him. When the priests had finished their prayers,
the body, heart, liver, &c. of the dog, were placed on a
whatta, or scaffold, about six feet in height, on which lay
the remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had
been lately sacrificed. The priests and attendants now gave
a kind of shout, which put an end to the ceremonies at pre-
sent. The evening being arrived, our gentlemen were con-
ducted to a house belonging to Potatou, where they were
entertained, and lodged for the night. Having been inform-
ed, that the religious rites were to be renewed the next morn-
ing, they would not quit the place while any thing remained
to be seen. Some of them repaired to the scence of action
early in the morning; and, soon afterwards, a pig was sacri-
ficed, and laid upon the same scaffold with the others. About
eight o'clock, Otoo took our party again to the morai, where
the priests, and a great multitude of people, were by this
time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place where
they had been deposited the preceding evening; the two
drums were in the front of the morai, and the priests were
stationed beyond them. The king placed himself between
the drums, and desired captain Cook to stand by him.
The ceremony of this day began with bringing a young
plantain-tree, and laying it at his majesty's feet. A prayer
was then repeated by the priests, holding in their hands se-
veral tufts of red feathers, and also a plume of ostrich
feathers, which the commodore had presented to Otoo on
his first arrival. When the priests had ended the prayer, they
changed their station, and placed themselves between our

Plate 14.
O rutuludegradeel
F. Jhullus.se
OF
CATIUMAN SACRIFICE in a MORAI in OTAHEITE
Pich


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
217
gentlemen and the morai. One of them, the same who had
performed the principal part the preceding day, began an-
other prayer, which continued near half an hour. During
this prayer, the tufts of red feathers were put, one by one
upon the ark of the Eatooa. Not long after, four pigs were
produced, one of which was immediately killed, and the three
others were taken to a neighbouring stye.
One of the bundles was now untied: and it was found to
contain the maro, with which the Otaheiteans invest their
kings. When taken out of the cloth, it was spread on the
ground, at full length, before the priests. It is a girdle about
fifteen feet in length, and one foot and a quarter in breadth,
and is probably put on in the same manner as the common
maro, or piece of cloth, used by these islanders to wrap round
the waist. It was ornamented with yellow and red feathers-
but principally with the former. One end of it was border-
ed with eight pieces, about the size and figure of a horse;
shoe, whose edges were fringed with black feathers. The
other end was forked, having the points of various lengths.
The feathers were ranged in two rows, in square compart-
ments, and produced a pleasing effect. They had been first
fixed upon some of the cloth of the island, and then sewed
to the upper end of the pendant which captain Wallis had
left flying on shore, the first time of his arrival at Matavai.
The priests pronounced a long prayer, relative to this part of
the ceremony; and after it was ended, the badge of royalty
was folded
up
with great care,
and put into the cloth. .
The other bundle, which we have already mentioned, un-
der the name of the ark, was next opened, at one end; but
our party were not permitted to approach near enough to
examine its mysterious contents. The intelligence they ob-
tained respecting it, was, that the Eatooa, (or rather what is
supposed to represent him) was concealed in it. This sacred
repository is composed of the twisted fibres of the husk of
the coacoa-nut; and its figure is roundish, with one end con-
siderably thicker than the other.
The pig that had been killed was by this time cleaned,
and its entrails taken 'out. These happened to have many
of
those convulsive motions, which frequently appear in differ-
ent parts, when an animal is killed; and this was considered
as a very favourable omen to the intended expedition. After
being exposed for some time, the entrails were carried and
laid down before the priests. While one of them prayed,
another closely inspected the entrails, and continued turning
them gently with a stick. Having been sufficiently examin-
VOL. I.
Еe

218
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ed, they were then thrown into the fire. The sacrificed pig,
and its liver, heart, &c. were now put upon the scaffold where
the dog had been deposited; and then all the feathers, except
the ostrich plume, being closed in the ark, an end was put to
the whole solemnity.
Four double canoes remained upon the beach, all the morn-
ing, before the place of sacrifice. A small platform, covered
with palm-leaves, fastened in mysterious knots, was fixed on
the fore-part of each of these canoes; and this also, is called
a morai.' Some plantains, cocoa- nuts, bread-fruit, fish, and
other articles, lay upon each of these naval morais. The na-
tives said, that they belonged to the Eatooa, and that they
were to attend the feet that was to be sent out against Ei-
meo.
The unfortunate victim, offered on this occasion, was, to
appearance, a middle-aged man, and was one of the lowest
class of the people. But it did not appear, that they had fixed
upon him on account of his having committed any particular
crime, that deserved death. It is certain, however, that they
usually select such guilty persons for their sacrifices, or else,
vagabonds, who have no visible way of procuring an honest
livelihood. Our gentlemen having examined the body of
the unhappy sufferer, now offered up to the object of these
people's worship, observed, that it was bloody about the head
and face, and much bruised upon the right temple, which de-
noted the manner in which he had been killed. And they
were informed, that he had been knocked on the head with a
The wretches who are destined to suffer on these
occasions, are never previously apprized of their fate. When-
ever any one of the principal chiefs deems a human sacrifice
necessary, on any great emergency, he fixes upon the victim,
and then dispatches some of his trusty servants, who fall upon
him suddenly, and either stone him to death, or beat out his
brains with a club. The sovereign is next acquainted with
it, whose presence is said to be absolutely requisite at the
solemn rites that follow; and, indeed, on the late occasion,
Otoo bore a capital part. The solemnity itself is termed
Poore Eree, or the prayer of the chief; and the victim is call-
ed Taata taboo or consecrated man.
The morai, where the late sacrifice was offered, is always
appropriated for the burial of the king of the whole island, and
likewise of his family and some other persons of distinguish-
ed rank. It differs little, except in extent, from the common
morais. Its principal part is a large oblong pile of stones,
about thirteen feet in height, and contracted towards the top,
stone.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
219
with a quadrangular area on each side, loosely paved with
pebbles, under which the bones of the chiefs are deposited.
Not far from the end nearest the sea, is the place of sacrifice,
,
where is a very large whatta, or scaffold, on which the offer-
ings of fruits, and other vegetables, are placed; but the ani-
mals are laid on a smaller one, and the human sacrifices are
interred under the pavement. There are several reliques
scattered about the place, such as small stones raised in va-
rious parts of the pavement, some with bits of cloth fastened
round thein, others entirely covered with it; and, upon the
side of the large pile, fronting the area, are a great number
of pieces of carved wood, in which their gods are supposed to
reside occasionally. There is a heap of stones, at one end
of the large scaffold, with a sort of platform on one side. On
this they deposit all the skulls of the human sacrifices, which
they take up after they have remained under ground for some
months. Just above them, many of the carved pieces of
wood are placed; and here the maro, and the other bundle,
which was supposed to contain the god Ooro, were laid dur-
ing the celebration of the late solemn rites.
It is probable that, this barbarous custom of offering hus
man victims, prevails in all, or most of the islands of the Pa-
cific Ocean, however distant from each other some of them
may be. And though we should suppose, that not more than
one person is sacrificed at one time, either at Otaheite, or
other islands, yet these occasions, in all probability, occur
so frequently, as to make a terrible havock of the human
species; for captain Cook reckoned no less than forty-nine
skulls of former victims, lying before the morai, at Attahooroo
and as none of those skulls appeared to have suffered any
considerable change, or decay, from the weather, it may be
inferred, that but a short time had elapsed, since these vic-
tims had been offered. This horrid practice, though no con
sideration whatever can make it cease to be detestable,
might, perhaps, be thought less detrimental, in some res
pects, if it contributed to impress any awe for the Deity,
or veneration for religion, upon the minds of the spectators.
But this was so far from being the case on the late occasion,
that though a vast multitude of people had assembled at the
morui, they showed very little reverence for what was transa
acting. And Omai happening to arrive, after the ceremo
nies had began, many of the islanders thronged round him,
and were engaged, for the remaining part of the time in maka
ing him recount some of his adventures; to which they listeni-
ed with great eagerness of attention, regardless of the soa

220
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
а
lemn offices which their priests were then performing. In-
deed, the priests themselves, except the one who sustained
the principle part, either from their being familiarized to
such objects, or from their reposing no great degree of con-
fidence in the efficacy of their religious institutions, maintain-
ed very little of that solemnity which is necessary to give to
acts of devotion their proper effect. Their habit was but an
ordinary one; they conversed together with great familiarity;
and the only attempt they made to preserve decorum, was
by exerting their authority to prevent the populace from en-
croaching on the very spot where the rites were performed,
and to suffer our gentlemen, as stangers, to come forward.
They were, however, very candid in the answers which they
gave to any interrogatories that were put to them, with re-
gard to this inhuman institution. And, particularly, on
being asked, what was the design of it, they replied, that it
was an ancient custom, and was highly agreeable to their
god, who came and fed
upon
the sacrifices; in consequence
of which, he granted their petitions. It was then objected,
that he certainly did not feed on these, as he was neither ob-
served to do it, nor were the bodies of the sacrificed animals
soon consumed; and that as to the corpse of a human victim,
they prevented his feeding on that, by interring it. In an-
swer to these objections, they gave it as their opinion, that
he came in the night, invisibly, and fed only on the soul, or
immaterial part, which (these people say) remains about the
place of sacrifice, till the carcase of the victim is totally wast-
ed by putrefaction.
Human sacrifices is not the only barbarous custom that
still prevails amongst the inhabitants of Otaheite, though, in
many other respects, they have emerged from the brutal man-
ners of savage life. Besides cutting out the jaw-bones of
their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about with
them as trophies, they, in some measure, offer up their bo-
dies to the Eatooa. Soon after an engagement, in which they
have come off victorious, they collect all the dead, and bring
them to the morai, where, with great form and ceremony,
they dig a large hole, and bury them all in, as so many offer-
ings to their divinities.
They treat, in a different mannner, their own chiefs that
fall in battle. Their late king, Tootaha, Toubourai-tamaide,
and another chief, who were all slain in an engagement with
those of Tiaraboo, were brought to the morai at Attahoo-
There the priests cut out their bowels before the
great altar; and their dead bodies were afterwards interred
roo.


ICH
OF
INIL
Plate 7.5.
Shallus Sc.
MINDAUK
M
mentalitatealta
MEAMUA KUFARINTERESANTE
A DANCE
in OTAHEITE.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
221
in three different places, near the great pile of stones above
mentioned; and the common men, who lost their lives in the
battle, were all buried in one hole, at the foot of the same
pile. This was performed the day after the battle, with
much
pomp and formality, amidst a numerous concourse of
people, as a thanksgiving offering to the deity, for the victo-
ry they had obtained the preceeding day. The vanquished, in
the mean time, had taken refuge in the mountains, where
they remained upwards of a week, till the fury of the vic-
tors began to abate. A treaty was then set on foot by which
it was agreed, that Otoo should be proclaimed king of the
whole island; and the solemnity of investing him with the
muro, or badge of royalty, was performed at the same morai,
with great magnificence.
At the close of the very extraordinary scene exhibited at
the morai, our party embarked about twelve o'clock, in order
to return to Matavai; and, in their way, paid a visit to Tow-
ha, who had continued in the little island, where they met
him the preceding day. Some conversation about public af-
fairs passed between Otoo and him; and the latter entreated
captain Cook, once more, to join them as an ally, in their war
against Eimeo. By his positive refusal he entirely lost the
good opinion of this chief.
Before they separated, he interrogated our gentlemen con-
cerning the solemnity, at which they had been present; and
asked, particularly, if it answered their expectations; what
,
opinion they entertained of its efficacy; and whether such acts
of worship were frequent in their own country? They had
been silent during the celebration of the horrid ceremony;
but, as soon as it was completed, freely expressed their sen-
the subject to Otoo, and his attendants; conse-
quently captain Cook did not conceal his detestation of it, in
this conversation with Towha. Exclusive of the barbarity
of the bloody custom, he urged the unreasonableness of it,
alledging that such a sacrifice, instead of making the Eatooa
propitious to their nation, would excite his vengeance; and
that, from this very circumstance, he concluded, that their
intended expedition against Maheine would be unsuccess-
ful. This was proceeding to great lengths upon conjecture;
but there was little danger of being mistaken; for, respecting
war, there were three parties in this island, one violent
for it, another perfectly indifferent about it; and the third
avowed supporters of Maheine, and his cause. Under these
circumstances, it was not probable that such a plan of milita-
ry operations would be settled, as could insure success. Omai
timents upon
this

222
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
acted as interpreter, in conveying the captain's sentiments to
Towha, on the subject of the late horrid sacrifice; and he
supported his arguments with such spirit, that the chief ap-
peared to be extremely angry; especially, on being informed,
that if he had taken away the life of a man in England, as he
had done here, his rank would not have protected him from
an ignominious death. Upon this, he exclaimed, maeno!
maeno! (vile! vile!) and would not hear a syllable more about
it. Many of the natives were present at this debate; particu-
larly the attendants and servants of Towha; and when Omai
mentioned the punishment that would in England be inflicted
upon the greatest man, if he dared to kill the meanest servant,
they listened very attentively: and, perhaps, on this subject, ,
they thought differently from their master.
Leaving Towha, our gentlemen proceeded to Oparre, where
Otoo solicited them to pass the night. They landed in the
evening; and, on their way to his habitation, had an oportu-
nity of observing how these people amuse themselves, in their
private heevas. They saw about a hundred of them sitting in
a house; in the midst of whom were two women, and an old
man behind each of them, beating gently upon a drum; and
the women, at intervals, singing with great softness and deli-
cacy. The assembly were very attentive, and seemed, as
it were, absorbed in the pleasure the music gave them; few
of them taking any notice of the strangers, and the performers
never once ceasing. When the party arrived at Otoo's house,
it was almost dark. Here they were entertained with one of
their public heevas, or plays, in which his three sisters re-
presented the principal characters. This they call a heeva raa,
and no person is suffered to enter the house or area, where it
is exhibited. This is always the case, when the royal sisters
are the performers. Their dress, on this occasion, was tru-
ly elegant and picturesque, and they acquitted themselves in
a very distinguished manner; though some comic interludes,
wherein four men were the performers, seemed to afford great-
er entertainment to the audience, which was numerous. The
captain and his companions proceeded, the next morning, to
Matavai, leaving Otoo at Oparre; but his mother, sisters, and
many other women, attended the captain on board, and Otoo
followed a short time after.
While Otoo and captain Cook had been absent from the
ships, they had been sparingly supplied with fruit, and had
not many visitors. After their return, we had abundance of
company and provisions. On the 4th, a party of us, among
whom was Otoo, dined ashore with Omai, who provided

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
223
a
excellent fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, and puddings,
Dinner being over, captain Cook accompanied Otoo back to
his dwelling, where he found all his servants busy; in getting
a quantity of provisions ready for him. Amongst other arti-
cles, there was a large hog, which they killed in his presence,
There was also a large pudding; the whole process in mak-
ing which the captain saw. It was composed of bread-fruit,
plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus-nuts, each rasped, scrap-
ed, or beat up very fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of
the juice of cocoa-nut-kernels, was put into a kind of wooden
tray. The other articles, hot from the oven, were put into
this vessel; together with some hot stones, in order to make
the contents firmer. Three or four persons were employed
in stiring up the several ingredients, till they were perfectly
incorporated, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to
oil; and the whole mass, at last, was nearly of the consisten-
су
of a hasty-pudding. The hog being baked, and the pud-
ding being made, they, together with two living hogs, some
bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts were sent on board the captain's
ship in a canoe, followed by him and all the royal family.
А young ram, of the Cape-breed, that had been lambed,
and carefully brought up on board captain Cook's ship, was
killed by a dog the following day. This was the more to be
regretted, as it was the only one of that breed that we had;
and only one of the English breed was now remaining.
On the 7th, in the evening, we exhibited some fire-works
before a vast concourse of people, some of whom were high-
ly entertained, but the greater number were much terrified
with the exhibition; insomuch, that they could hardly be pre-
vailed on to keep together, to see the whole of the entertain-
ment. What concluded the business, was a table-rocket. It
flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in an in-
stant; even the most resolute amongst them now fled with
precipitation.
On the 8th of September, a party of us dined with our
former ship-mate, Oedidee, on fish and pork. The hog
weighed about thirty pounds; and it may be worth mention-
ing, that it was alive, dressed, and brought upon the table,
within the hour. We had but just dined, when Otoo came,
and asked me, if my belly was full? On my answering in
the affirmative, he said, 'Then come along with me.' I ac-
cordingly went with him to his father's, where I found some
employed in dressing two girls with a prodigious quantity of
fine cloth, after a very singular fashion. The one end of
each piece of cloth, of which there were a good many, was

224
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
held up over the heads of the girls, while the remainder was
wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits. Then the
upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground,
over the other, so far as to bear resemblance to a circular
hoop-petticoat. Afterward, round the outside of all, were
wrapped several pieces of differently coloured cloth, which
considerably increased the size; so that it was not less than
five or six yards in circuit, and the weight of this singular
attire was as much as the poor girls could support To each
were hung two taames or breast-plates, by way of enrich-
ing the whole, and giving it a picturesque appearance. Thus
equipped, they were conducted on board the ship, together
with several hogs, and a quantity of fruit, which, with the
cloth, was a present to me from Otoo's father. Persons, of
either sex, dressed in this manner, are called atee; but I be-
lieve, it is never practised, except when large presents of
cloth are to be made. At least, I never saw it practised
upon any other occasion; nor, indeed, had I ever such a pre-
sent before; but both captain Clerke and I had cloth given to
us afterward, thus wrapped round the bearers.
The next day, captain Cook received a present of five hogs,
and some fruit from Otoo; and one hog, and some fruit from
each of his sisters. Other provisions were also in great
plenty. Great quantities of mackarel had been caught here
by the natives, for two or three successive days; some of each
were sold on board the ships.
Otoo was equally attentive to supply our wants, and con-
tribute to our amusement. On the 10th, he treated a party
of us at Oparre, with a play. His three sisters were the per-
formers, and their dresses were new and elegant, much more
so than we had met with in any of these islands.
The principle object, however, that the captain had now
in view, in going to Oparre, was to see an embalmed corpse,
near the residence of Otoo. On enquiry, says he, I found
it to be the remains of Tee, a chief well known to me, when
I was at this island, during my last voyage. It was lying
in a toopapaoo, more elegantly constructed than their com-
It was in a pretty large house, enclosed with a
low palisade. It resembled one of those little houses, or
awnings, belonging to their large canoes. When we arrived
at the place, the body was under cover, and wrapped up in
cloth, within the toopapuoo; but, at my desire, the man who
had the care of it, brought it out, and laid it upon a kind of
bier, in such a manner, that we had as full a view of it as we
could wish; but we were not allowed to go within the pales
mon ones.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
225
that enclose the toopapaoo. After he had thus exhibited the
corpse, he hung the place with mats and cloth, so disposed
as to produce a very pretty effect. We found the body not
only entire in every part; but what surprised us much more,
was that putrefaction seemed scarcely to be begun, as there
was not the least disagreeable smell proceeding from it;
though the climate is one of the hottest, and Tee had been
dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration
that had happened, was a shrinking of the muscular parts
and eyes: but the hair and nails were in their original state,
and still adhered firmly; and the several joints were quite
pliable, or in that kind of relaxed state which happens to per-
sons who faint suddenly. Such were Mr. Anderson's re-
marks to me, who also told me, that on his enquiring into
the method of effecting this preservation of their dead bodies,
he had been informed, that soon after their death, they are
disembowelled, by drawing the intestines, and other viscera,
out at the anus; and the whole cavity is then filled or stuffed
with cloth introduced through the same part; that when any
moisture appeared on the skin, it was carefully dried up,
and
the bodies afterward rubbed all over, with a large quantity
of perfumed cocoa-nut oil; which, being frequently repeated,
preserved them a great many months; but, that, at last, they
gradually moulder away. This was the information Mr.
Anderson received; for my own part, I could not learn any
more about their mode of operation, than what Omai told me,
who said, that they made use of the juice of a plant which
grows amongst the mountains, of cocoa-nut oil; and of fre-
quent washing with sea-water. I was also told, that the bo-
dies of all their great men, who die a natural death, are pre-
served in this manner; and that they expose them to public
view for a very considerable time after. At first, they are
laid out every day, when it does not rain; afterwards the in-
tervals become greater and greater; and, at last, they are sel-
dom to be seen.
We quitted Oparre in the evening, leaving Otoo, and all
the royal family. The captain saw none of them till the 12th;
when all, except the chief himself, honoured him with a visit.
He was gone, they said, to Attahooroo, to assist at another
human sacrifice, sent by the chief of Tiaraboo to be offered
up at the morai. This second instance, within so short a pe-
riod, was a melancholy proof, that the victims of this bloody
superstition are very numerous amongst this humane people.
The captain would have been present at this sacrifice also,
had he been earlier informed of it, but now it was too late.
a
a
VOL. I.

226
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
For the same reason, he omitted being present at a public
transaction, at Oparre, the preceding day, when Otoo, with
great solemnity, restored to the adherents of the late king
Tootaha, the lands and possessions, of which, after his death,
they had been deprived.
Ótoo returned the next evening, from exercising the most
disagreeable of his royal duties; and, the next day, being ho-
noured with his company the captains Cook and Clerke,
mounted on horseback, and rode round the plain of Matavai,
to the astonishment of a vast train of spectators. Once or
twice before this, Omai had, indeed, attempted to get on a
horse; but he had as often fallen off, before he could contrive
to seat himself properly; this was, therefore, the first time
they had seen any body on horseback. What the captains
had begun, was repeated daily, by one or another of our peo-
ple; and yet the curiosity of the natives continued unabated.
After they had seen the use that was made of these animals,
they were greatly delighted with them; and we were of opin-
ion, that they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness
of other nations, than all the novelties that their European
visitors had carried amongst them.
The next day, Etary, or Olla the god of Bolabola, remov-
ed from the neighbourhood of Matavai, to Oparre, attended
by several sailing canoes. Otoo, we were told, did not ap-
prove of his being so near our station, where his people
could more conveniently invade our property. Otoo, it must
be acknowledged, took every prudent method to prevent
thefts and robberies; and it was principally owing to his re-
gulations, that so few were committed. He had erected
small house or two behind our post; and two others near our
tents, between the river and the sea. Some of his own peo-
ple continually kept watch in all these places; and, as his fa-
ther usually resided on Matavai Point, we were,
in a man-
ner, surrounded by them. They not only defended us in the
night from thieves, but they had an opportunity of observing
every thing that passed in the day; and were ready to receive
contributions from such girls, as were privately connected
with our people, which was usually done every morning; so
that the measures he had taken to secure our safety, answer-
ed the more essential purpose of enlarging his own profits.
Otoo acquainted captain Cook, that his presence was re-
quired at Oparre, where an audience was to be given to the
great personage from Bolabola, and begged he would accom-
pany him thither. The captain readily consented, expecting
to meet with something deserving his notice. Accordingly,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
227
they set out on the 16th, attended by Mr. Anderson. No-
thing, however, occurred, that was interesting or curious.
Etary and his followers presented some coarse cloth and
hogs to Otoo, with some ceremony, and a set speech. After
this, a consultation was held between them and some other
chiefs, about their expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at first,
disapproved of it; but his objections were at length over-rul-
ed. It appeared, indeed, the next day, that it was too late
to deliberate upon this business; for in the evening, a mes-
senger arrived with intelligence, that there had been some
skirmishes, but that the loss or advantage, on either side,
was inconsiderable.
Captain Cook, Mr. Anderson, and Omai, in the morning
of the 18th, went again to Oparre, accompanied by Otoo;
taking with them the sheep which the Captain intended to
leave upon the island. They consisted of an English ram
and ewe, and three Cape ewes; all which he made a present
of to Otoo. All the three cows had taken the bull, he there-
fore thought it adviseable to divide them, and carry some to
Ulietea. With this view, he ordered them to be brought
before him, and proposed to Etary, that if he would have
his bull with Otoo, he should have this, and one of the cows.
To this proposal, Etary, at first started some objections; but
at last, agreed to it; however, as the cattle were putting into
the boat, one of the Etary's followers opposed the making
any change whatever.
The captain, upon this, suspecting that Etary had agreed
to the arrangement, for the present, only to please him, drop-
ped the idea of an exchange; and finally determined to leave
them all with Otoo; whom he strictly enjoined not to suffer
them to be removed from Oparre, till he should have got a
stock of young ones; which he might then dispose of to his
friends, or send to the neighbouring islands.
This matter being settled, our gentlemen left Etary and
his party, and attended Otoo to another place, not far distant,
where they found the servant of a chief, waiting with a hog,
a pig, and a dog, as a present from their master to the king.
These were delivered with the usual ceremonies, and an
harangue, in which the speaker inquired after the health of
Otoo, and of his principal people. This compliment was re-
echoed in the name of Otoo, by one of his ministers; and
then the dispute with Eimeo was formally discussed. The
deputies of this chief were advocates for prosecuting the war
with vigour, advising Otoo to offer a human sacrifice on the
occasion. A chief, who constantly attended the person of

228
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Otoo, opposed it, seemingly with great strength of argument.
The captain was now confirmed in his opinion, that Otoo
never entered heartily into the spirit of this war.
He re-
ceived repeated messages from Towha, urging him to has-
ten to his assistance.
Having dined with Otoo, our party returned to Matavai,
leaving him at Oparre. This day, and the 19th, we were
very sparingly supplied with fruit. Otoo being informed of
this, he and his brother, who had particularly attached him-
self to captain Clerke, came from Oparre, with a large sup-
ply for both ships. All the royal family came the next day
with presents, so that we now had more provisions than we
could consume.
Our water being all on board, and every thing put in order,
the captain began to think of quitting the island, that he
might have a sufficient time for visiting others in this neigh-
bourhood. We therefore removed our observatories and in-
struments from the shore, and bent the sails.
Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to inform
captain Cook, that the war canoes of Matavai, and of three
other districts, were going to join those belonging to Oparre,
and that part of the island; and that there would be a gene-
ral review there. The squadron of Matavai was soon after
in motion; and after parading for some time about the bay,
assembled ashore, near the middle of it. Captain Cook now
went in his boat to take a survey of them.
What they call their war canoes, which are those with
stages, on which they fight, amount to about sixty in number;
there are nearly as many more of a smaller size. The cap-
tain was ready to have attended them to Oparre; but the
chiefs soon after formed a resolution, that they would not
move till the next day. This appeared to be a fortunate de-
lay, as it afforded him an opportunity of getting some insight
into their manner of fighting. He therefore desired Otoo to
give orders, that some of them should go through the ne-
cessary maneuvres. Two were accordingly ordered out in-
to the bay; in one of which, Otoo, captain Cook and Mr.
King, embarked; and Omai went on board the other. When
we had got sufficient sea-room, we faced, and advanced upon
each other, and retreated by turns, as quick as our rowers
could paddle. During this, the warriors on the stages flou-
rished their weapons, and played a hundred antic tricks,
which could answer no other end, in our judgment, than to
work up their passions, and prepare them for fighting. Otoo
stood by the side of our stage, and gave the necessary orders,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
229
a
a
when to advance, and when to retreat. In this, great judg-
ment, and a quick eye, combined together, seemed requisite,
to seize every advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving
any advantage to the adversary. At last, after advancing and
retreating to and from each other, at least a dozen of times,
the two canoes closed, head to head, or stage to stage; and,
after a short conflict, the troops on our stage were supposed
to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai and his asso-
ciates. At that very instant, Otoo, and all our paddlers leap-
ed over-board, as if reduced to the necessity of endeavouring
to save their lives by swimming.
If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval
engagements are not always conducted in this manner. He
told us, that they sometimes begin with lashing the two ves-
sels together, head to head, and then fight till all the warri-
ors are killed, on one side or the other. But this close com-
bat, I apprehend, is never practised, but when they are de-
termined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other must
happen; for all agree, that they never give quarter, unless it
be to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next
day.
The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in
their natives. We never heard of a general engagement on
land; and all their decisive battles are fought on the water.
If the time and place of conflict are fixed upon by both par-
ties, the preceding day and night are spent in diversions and
feasting. Toward morning they launch the canoes, put every
thing in order, and with the day begin the battle, the fate of
which generally decides the dispute. The vanquished save
themselves by a precipitate flight; and such as reach the
shore, fly with their friends, to the mountains; for the victors,
while their fury lasts, spare neither the aged, nor women,
nor children. The next day, they assemble at the morai, to
return thanks to the Eatooa for the victory, and to offer up
the slain as sacrifices, and the prisoners also, if they have any.
After this, a treaty is set on foot; and the conquerors, for
the most part, obtain their own terms; by which particular
districts of land, and, sometimes, whole islands, change their
owners. Omai told us, that he was once taken a prisoner by
the men of Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he and
some others would have been put to death the next day, if
they had not found means to escape in the night.
As soon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his
suit of armour, mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and
was paddled all along the shore of the bay; so that every one

230
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
had a full view of him. His coat of mail did not draw the
attention of his countrymen so much as might have been
expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of it before
and there were others again, who had taken such a dislike to
Omai, from his imprudent conduct at this place, that they
would hardly look at any thing, however singular, that was
exhibited by him.
Otoo, and his father, came on board, in the morning of
the 22d, to know when captain Cook proposed sailing. For
hearing that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, he had
informed them, that he should visit that island on his pas-
sage to Huaheine; and they proposed to accompany him,
and that their fleet should sail at the same time, to reinforce
Towha. Being ready to take his departure, he submitted to
them the appointment of the day; and the Wednesday fol-
lowing was determined upon; when he was to receive on
board Otoo, his father, mother, and the whole family. These
points being agreed on, the captain proposed immediately
setting out for Oparre, where all the fleet was to assemble
this day, and to be reviewed.
As captain Cook was getting into his boat, news arrived
that a treaty had been concluded between Towha and Ma-
heine, and Towha's fleet had returned to Artahooroo. From
this unexpected event, the war canoes, instead of rendez-
vousing at Oparre, were ordered to their respective districts.
Captain Cook, however, followed Otoo to Oparre, accom-
panied by Mr King and Omai. Soon after their arrival, a
messenger arrived from Eimeo, and related the conditions
of the peace, or rather truce, it being only for a limited time.
The terms being disadvantageous to Otaheite, Otoo was se-
verely censured, whose delay, in sending reinforcements, had
obliged Towha to submit to a disgraceful accommodation.
It was even currently reported, that Towha, resenting the
treatment he had received, had declared, that immediately
after captain Cook's departure, he would join his forces to
those of Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo. This called upon
the
captain to declare, that he was determined to espouse the
interest of his friend; and that whosoever presumed to attack
him, should experience the weight of his displeasure, when
he returned to their island.
This declaration, probably, had the desired effect, and, if
Towha did entertain any such hostile intention at frst, we
heard no more of the report. Whappai, the father of Otoo,
highly disapproved of the peace, and censured Towha for
concluding it. The old man wisely considered, that captain
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
231
a
Cook's going with them to Eimeo, might have been of sin-
gular service to their cause, though he should not interfere
in the quarrel. He therefore concluded, that Otoo had acted
prudently in waiting for the captain; though it prevented his
giving that early assistance to Towha which he expected.
While we were debating on this subject at Oparre, a mes-
senger arrived from Towha, desiring the attendance of Otoo
the next day, at the morai in Attahooroo, to return thanks to
the Gods for the peace he had concluded. Captain Cook
was asked to attend; but being much out of order, he chose
rather to decline it. Desirous, however, of knowing what
ceremony might be exhibited on so memorable an occasion
he sent Mr King and Omai to observe the particulars, and
returned to his ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three
sisters and several other women.
" At first,' says captain Cook, 'I thought that this nume-
rous train of females came into my boat with no other view
than to get a passage to Matavai. But when we arrived at
the ship, they told me, they intended passing the night on
board, for the express purpose of undertaking the cure of
the disorder I complained of; which was a pain of the rheu-
matic kind, extending from the hip to the foot. I accepted
the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them upon the cabin
floor, and submitted myself to their directions. I was de-
sired to lay myself down amongst them. Then, as many of
them as could get round me, began to squeeze me with both
hands, from head to foot, but more particularly on the parts
where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack,
and
my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after un-
dergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was
glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave
me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to
another rubbing down before I went to bed; and it was so
effectual that I found myself pretty easy all the night after.
My female physicians repeated their prescription the next
morning, before they went ashore, and again, in the evening
when they returned on board; after which, I found the pains
entirely removed; and the cure being perfected, they took
their leave of me the following morning. This they call
romee; an operation which; in my opinion, far exceeds the
flesh-brush, or any thing of the kind that we make use of
externally. It is universally practised amongst these Island-
ers; being sometimes performed by the men, but more gen-
;
erally by the women. If at any time, one appears languid
and tired, and sits down by any of them, they immediately
a

232
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
begin to practise the romee upon his legs, and I have always
found it to have an exceedingly good effect.
On Thursday the 25th of September, Otoo, Mr. King, and
Omai, returned from Attahooroo; and Mr. King gave a
narrative of what he had seen to the following effect. At
sunset, we embarked in a canoe, and left Oparre. About
nine o'clock we landed at that extremity of Tettaha, which
joins to Attahooroo. The meeting of Otoo and Towha, I
expected, would be interesting. Otoo and his attendants
seated themselves upon the beach, near the canoe in which
Towha sat. He was then asleep; but being awakened, and
Otoo's name mentioned to him, a plantain-tree and a dog
were immediately laid at Otoo's feet; and several of Towha's
people came and conversed with him. After I had been for
sometime seated close to Otoo, Towha neither stirring from
his canoe, nor saying any thing to us, I repaired to him. He
asked me if Toote was displeased with him; I answered, No;
I
and that he was his taio; and that I was ordered to go to
Attahooroo, to let him know it. Omai then entered into a
long conversation with this chief; but I could not gather any
information from him. On my returning to Otoo, he desired
that I should go to eat, and then to sleep; in consequence of
which Omai and I left him. On questioning Omai on that
head, he said, Towha was lame, and therefore could not stir;
but that Otoo and he would soon converse together in pri-
This was probably true; for those we left with Otoo
came to us in a little time; and about ten minutes after, Otoo
himself arrived, when we all went to sleep in his canoe.
The ava was the next morning in great plenty. One man
drank to such excess that he lost his senses, and appeared
to be convulsed. He was held by two men, who busied them-
selves in plucking off his hair by the roots. I left this spec-
tacle to see a more affecting one. It was the meeting of Towha
and his wife, and a young girl, who was said to be his daugh-
ter. After the ceremony of cutting their heads, and dischar-
ing plenty of blood and tears, they washed, embraced the
chief, and seemed perfectly unconcerned. But the young
girl's sufferings were not yet concluded. Terridiri (Oberea's
son) arrived; and she, with great composure, repeated those
ceremonies to him which she had just performed on meeting
her father. Towha having brought a war canoe from Eimeo
I enquired if he had killed the people belonging to her; and
was informed, that there was not a person in her when she
was captured
vate.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
233
a
About ten or eleven o'clock we left Tettaha, and landed
close to the morai of Attahooro early in the afternoon.
Three canoes lay hauled upon the beach, opposite the morai,
having three hogs in each. We expected the solemnity would
have been performed the same afternoon; but nothing was
done, as neither Towha nor Potatou had joined us. A chief
came from Eimeo, with a small pig, and a plaintain tree,
which he placed at Otoo's feet. They conversed sometime
together, and the Eimeo chief often repeating the word
Warry, Warry, (false,) Otoo was probably relating to him
what he had heard, and the other contradicted it.
The next day, Towha and Potatou, with seven or eight
large canoes, arrived, and landed near the morai. Several
plantain-trees were brought to Otoo, on behalf of different
chiefs. Towha remained in his canoe. The ceremony was
commenced by the principle priest who brought out the maro,
wrapped up, and a bundle of a conic shape. These were
placed at the head of what I supposed to be a grave. Then
three priests sat down, at the other end of the grave; having
,
with them a plantain-tree, a branch of some other kind of tree,
and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut-tree.
The priests separately repeated sentences; and at intervals,
two, and sometimes all three, chanted a melancholy ditty,
very little attended to by the natives. This kind of recitative
continued near an hour. Then, after a short prayer, the
chief priest uncovered the maro, and Otvo rose up and wrap-
ped it about him, holding in his hand a bonnet, composed of
the red feathers of the tropic bird, mixed with other blackish
feathers. He stood opposite the three priests, who continued
their prayers for about ten minutes; when a man rising sud-
denly from the crowd, said something ending with heiva!
and the crowd echoed back to him three times Earee! The
company then repaired to the opposite side of a large pile
of stones, where is the king's morai; which is not much un-
like a large grave. Here the same ceremony was again per-
formed, and ended with three cheers. The maro was now
wrapped up, and ornamented by the addition of a small piece
of red feathers.
The people now proceeded to a large hut, near the morai,
where they seated themselves in solemn order. An oration
was then made by a man of Tiaraboo, which ended in about
ten minutes. He was followed by a man of Attahooroo;
Potatou spoke next, and with much more fluency and grace
than any of them. Tooteo, Otoo's orator, exhibited after him,
and then a man from Eimeo. Some other speeches were
a
a
VOL.I.

34
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
made, but not attended to. Omai said, that the substance
of their speeches recommended friendship, and not fighting;
but as many of the speakers expressed themselves with great
warmth, there were, perhaps, some recriminations and pro-
testations of their future good intentions. In the midst of
their harangues, a man of Attahooroo rose up having a sling
fastened to his waist, and a large stone upon his shoulder. .
After parading for about fifteen minutes in the open space,
and chanting a few short sentences, he threw the stone down.
This stone, together with a plantain-tree that lay at Otoo's
feet, were, at the conclusion of the speeches, carried to the
morai; one of the priests, and Otoo with him, saying some-
thing upon the occasion.
Returning to Oparre, the sea breeze having set in, we were
obliged to land, and had a pleasant walk from Tettaha to
Oparre. A tree, with two large bundles of dried leaves sus-
pended upon it, pointed out the boundary of the two districts.
We were accompanied by the man who had performed the
ceremony of the stone and sling. With him Otoo's father
held a long conversation, and appeared extremely angry. He
was enraged,
as I understood, at the part which Towha had
taken in the Eimeo business.
From what can be judged of this solemnity, as related by
Mr. King, it had not been only a thanksgiving, as Omai told
us, but rather a confirmation of the treaty. The grave, men-
tioned by Mr. King, appears to be the very spot where the
celebration of the rites began, when the human sacrifice was
offered, at which captain Cook was present, and before which
the victim was laid. It is here also, that they first invest the
kings with the maro. Omai, who had seen the ceremony
when Otoo was made king, described the whole solemnity,
when we were here; which is nearly the same as that now
described by Mr. King; though perhaps, upon a very differ-
ent occasion. The plantain-tree is always the first thing in
troduced in all their religious ceremonies, as well as in all
their public and private debates; and probably, on many oth-
er occasions. While Towha was at Eimeo, he sent one or
more messengers to Otoo every day. Every messenger, at
all times, carried a young plantain-tree in his hand, which he
laid at the foot of Otoo, before he mentioned his errand; then
seated himself before him, and related the particulars of his
message. When two men are in such high dispute that blows
are expected to ensue, if one should lay a plantain-tree before
the other, they both become cool, and proceed in the argu-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
235
ment without further animosity. It is, indeed, the olive
branch of these people upon all occasions.
As our friends knew that we were upon the point of sail-
ing, they all paid us a visit on the 26th, and brought more
hogs with them than we wanted; for, having no salt left to
preserve any, we had fully sufficient for our present use.
Captain Cook accompanied Otoo, the next day, to Oparre;
and before he left it, took a survey of the cattle and poultry,
which he had consigned to his friend's care. Every thing
was in a promising way; and seemed properly attended to.
Two of the geese, as well as two of the ducks, were sitting;
but the pea-hen and turkey-hen had neither of them begun
to lay. He took four goats from Otoo, two of which he in-
tended to leave at Ulietea; and to reserve the other two for
the use of any other islands he might touch at in his passage
to the north.
'A circumstance,' says captain Cook, 'which I shall now
mention, will show, that these people are capable of much
address and art, to gain their purposes.
. Amongst other
things, which, at different times, I had given to this chief,
was a spying-glass. After having it in his possession two or
three days, tired of its novelty, and probably, finding it of
no use to him, he carried it privately to captain Clerke, and
told him, that as he had been his very good friend, he had
got a present for him, which he knew would be very agree-
able. But,' says Otoo, you must not let Toote know it,
because he wants it, and I would not let him have it. He
then put the glass into captain Clerke's hands; at the same
time, assuring him, that he came honestly by it. Captain
Clerke, at first, declined accepting it; but Otoo insisted
upon
it, and left it with him. Some days after, he put captain Clerke
in mind of the glass; who, though he did not want it, was yet
desirous of obliging Otoo; and thinking that a few axes would
be of more use at this island, produced four to give him in
return. Otoo no sooner saw this than he said, 'Toote offered
me five for it.'—'Well,' says captain Clerke, 'if that be the
case, your friendship for me shall not make you a loser, and
you shall have six axes.' These he accepted; but desired
again, that I might not be told what he had done.
Our friend Omai got one good thing, at this island, for
the many good things he gave away. This was a very fine
double sailing canoe, completely equipped, and fit for the sea.
Some time before, I made up for him a suit of English co-
lours; but he thought these too valuable to be used at this
time; and patched up a parcel of colours, such as flags and
a

236
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which he spread
on different parts of his vessel, all at the same time; and
drew together as many people to look at her, as a man of war
would, dressed, in an European port. These streamers of
Omai were a mixture of English, French, Spanish, and Dutch,
which were all the European colours that he had seen. When
I was last at this island, I gave to Otoo an English jack and
pendant, and to Towha a pendant; which I now found they
had preserved with the greatest care.
'Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of cloth
and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but
much better, at Otaheite, than at any of the Society Islands;
insomuch, that they are articles of trade. Omai would not
have behaved so inconsistently, and so much unlike himself,
as he did, in many instances, but for his sister and brother-
,
in-law, who, together with a few more of their acquaintance,
engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than
to strip him of every thing he had got. And they would, un-
doubtedly, have succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put
a stop to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his
property into my possession. But even this would not have
saved Omai from ruin, if I had suffered these relations of his
to have gone with, or to have followed us to, his intended
place of settlement, Huaheine. This they had intended; but
I disappointed their further views of plunder, by forbidding
them to show themselves in that island, while I remained in
the neighbourhood: and they knew me too well not to comply.
On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me, that
,
he had
got a canoe, which he desired I would take with
me,
and carry home, as a present from him to the Earee rahie
no Pretane; it being the only thing, he said, that he could
send, worth his majesty's acceptance. I was not a little
pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude. It was a
thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the
least hint about it; and it showed, that he fully understood
to whom he was indebted for the most valuable presents that
he had received. At first, I thought, that this canoe had
been a model of one of their vessels of war; but I soon found,
that it was a small ivahah, about sixteen feet long. It was
double, and seemed to have been built for the purpose; and
was decorated with all those pieces of carved work, which
they usually fix upon their canoes. . As it was too large for
me to take on board, I could only thank him for his good in-
tention, but it would have pleased him much better, if his
present could have been accepted.

À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
237
a
The frequent visits we had lately paid to this island,
seem to have created a full persuasion, that the intercourse
will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by
Otoo, to request, in his name, the Earee rahie no Pretane, to
send him, by the next ships, red feathers, and the birds that
produce them; axes; half a dozen musquets, with powder
;
and shot; and, by no means to forget horses.
When these people make us a present, it is customary for
them to let us know what they expect in return; and we find
it convenient to gratify them; by which means our presents
come dearer to us than what we get by barter. But, being
sometimes pressed by occasional scarcity, we could have re-
course to our friends for a supply as a present, when we could
not get it by any other method. Upon the whole, therefore,
this way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as to the
natives. Captain Cook, in general, paid for each separate ar-
ticle as he received it, except in his intercourse with Otoo.
His presents were so numerous, that no account was kept be-
tween him and the captain. Whatever he asked for, if it
could be spared, the captain never denied him, and he always
found him moderate in his demands.
Captain Cook would not have quitted Otaheite so soon as
he did, if he could have prevailed on Omai to fix himself
there. There was not even a probability of our being better
supplied with provisions elsewhere, than we continued to be
here, even at the time of our leaving it. Besides, such a
friendship and confidence subsisted between us and the in-
habitants, as could hardly be expected at any other place; and,
it was rather extraordinary, had never been once interrupted
or suspended by any accident, or misunderstanding; nor had
there been a theft committed, worthy of notice. It is proba-
ble, however, that their regularity of conduct resulted from
their fear of interrupting a traffic, which might procure them
a greater share of our commodities, than they could obtain
by plunder or pilfering. This point, indeed, was, in some
degree, settled at the first interview with their chiefs, after
our arrival. For captain Cook declared then to the natives,
in the most decisive terms, that he would not suffer them to
rob us, as they had formerly done. Omai was singularly
useful in this business, being instructed by the captain to
point out to them the happy consequences of their honest
conduct, and the fatal mischiefs that must attend a deviation
from it. But the chiefs have it not always in their power to
prevents thefts; they are often robbed themselves; and com-
plain of it as the worst of evils. The most valuable things

238
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
that Otoo received from captain Cook, were left in the cap-
tain's possession till the day before we sailed; Otoo declaring
at the same time, that they were no where so safe. From
the acquisition of new riches, the inducements to pilfering
must certainly have increased; and the chiefs are sensible of
this, from their being so extremely desirous of having chests.
The few that the Spaniards left amongst them are highly
prized; and they were continually asking us for some. Cap-
tain Cook had one made for Otoo, the dimensions of which
were eight feet in length, five in breadth, and about three in
depth. Locks and bolts are not considered as a sufficient se-
curity; but it must be large enough for two people to sleep
upon, and consequently guard it in the night.
It may appear extraordinary, that we could never get any
distinct account of the time when the Spaniards arrived, the
time they stayed, and when they departed. The more we
made inquiry into this matter, the more we were convinced
of the incapability of most of these people to remember, cal-
culate, or note the time, when past events happened; espe-
cially if for a longer period than eighteen or twenty months.
It however appeared, by the inscription upon the cross, and
by the information of the most intelligent of the natives, that
two ships came to Oheitepeha in 1774, not long after captain
Cook left Matavia, which was in May the same year. The
live stock they left here, consisted of one bull, some goats,
hogs, and dogs, and the male of another animal; which we
were afterwards informed was a ram, and was, at this time,
at Bolabola.
The hogs are large; have already much improved the breed
originally found by us upon the island; and, on our late arri-
val, were very numerous. Goats are also in plenty, there being
hardly a chief without some. The dogs that the Spaniards
put ashore are of two or three sorts: if they had all been
hanged, instead of being left upon the island, it would have
been better for the natives. Captain Cook's young ram fell
a victim to one of these animals. We have already mention-
ed the four Spaniards that remained on the island after their
ships left it. Two of these were priests who resided the
whole time in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema rove
about continually, visiting many parts of the island. After
he and his companions had staid ten months, two ships arri-
ving at Oheitepeha, took them aboard, and sailed again in
five days. Whatever design the Spaniards might have had
upon this island, this hasty departure shows they have now
laid it aside. They endeavoured to make the natives believe,

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
239
was ours.
that they still intended to return; and that they would bring
with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and women
who were to settle on the island. Otoo, when he mentioned
this to captain Cook, added, that if the Spaniards should re-
turn, they should not come to Matavai fort, which, he said,
The idea pleased him; but he did not consider
that the completion of it would deprive him of his kingdom,
and his people of their liberties. Though this shows how
easy a settlement might be made at Otaheite, it is hoped that
such a circumstance will never happen. Our occasional visits
may have been of service to its inhabitants, but (considering
how most European establishments are conducted among In-
dian nations) a permanent establishment amongst them would
probably, give them just cause to lament that our ships had
ever discovered it. Indeed, a measure of this kind can hard-
ly ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither answer the
purposes of public ambition, nor of private avarice.
It has been already observed that captain Cook received a
visit from one of the two natives of this island, who had been
taken to Lima by the Spaniards. It is somewhat remarkable
that he never saw him afterwards, especially as the captain
received him with uncommon civility. The captain, however,
supposed that Omai had kept him at a distance from him,
from motives of jealousy, he being a traveller, that in some
degree, might vie with himself. Our touching at Teneriffe
was a lucky circumstance for Omai; who prided himself in
having visited a place belonging to Spain, as well as this man.
Captain Clerke, who had seen the other man, spoke of him
as a low fellow, a little out of his senses; and his own coun-
trymen entertained the same opinion of him. In short, these
two adventurers seemed to be held in little or no esteem.
They had not been so fortunate, indeed, as to return home
with such valuable property as had been bestowed upon Omai;
whose advantages from going to England were so great, that
if he should sink into the same state of insignificance, he has
only himself to blame for it.
a

A VOYAGE
TO
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK III. CONTINUED.
Arrival at Taloo in Eimeo—Visit from Maheine- Goats stolen-Expedi-
tion with a party across the Island-Methods used in Recovering the
Goats -Island described-Arrival at Huaheine-Omai's Harangue in
the Assembly of Chiefs—Omai's Establishment here-Theft Detected
and Punished—Omai's Behaviour at Parting-Remarks on his Conduct
and Character-Account of the two New Zealanders-Arrived at Ulie-
tea-Three Marines Desert-Conspiracy of the Natives—Remarks
on the Ulieteans-Description and State of the Island-Description of
Otaheite-Natives and Manners-Religion and Peculiarities--Naviga-
tion, &c.-Christmas Isle Discovered-Distress of two Seamen-Island
described-Three Islands Discovered—Anchor at Atooi-Excursions-
Customs-Visit Oneeheow-Customs-&c. &c.
On the 30th of September, at day break, after leaving
Otaheite, we stood for the north end of the island of Eimeo.
Omai, in his canoe, arrived there before us, and endeavour-
ed, by taking some necessary measures, to show us the situa-
tion. We were not, however, without pilots having several
natives of Otaheite on board, and among them, not a few
women. Unwilling to rely entirely upon these guides, cap-
tain Cook dispatched two boats to examine the harbour;
when on, a signal being made for safe anchorage, we stood
in with both the ships, and anchored in ten fathoms water.
Talloo is the name of this harbour: it is on the north side
of the island, and in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo.
It runs above two miles between the hills, south, or south by
cast. It is not inferior to any harbour that we have met with

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
241
a
in this ocean, both for security and goodness of bottom. It
has also this singular advantage, that a ship can sail in and
out with the reigning trade-wind. Several rivers fall into it;
one of which is so considerable, as to admit boats a quarter
of a mile up, where the water is perfectly fresh. The banks,
on the sides of this stream, are covered with what the natives
call the pooroo tree, on which they set no value, as it only
serves for firing. So that wood and water may be procured
here with great facility.
The harbour of Parowroah, on the same side of the island,
is about two miles to the eastward, and is much larger with-
in than that of Taloo; but the opening in the reef lies to lee-
ward of the harbour, and is considerably narrower. These
striking defects must give the harbour of Taloo a decided
preference. There are one or two more harbours on the south
side of the island, but they are not so considerable as those
we have already mentioned.
As soon as we had anchored, great numbers of the inhabi-
tants came aboard our ships, from mere motives of curiosity,
for they brought nothing with them for the purposes of bar-
ter: but several canoes arrived, the next morning, from more
distant parts, bringing with them an abundant supply of bread-
fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs, which were exchanged for
beads, nails, and hatchets; red feathers not being so much de-
manded here as at Otaheite.
On Thursday the 2d of October, in the morning, captain
Cook received a visit from Maheine, the chief of the island.
He approached the ship with as great caution and delibera-
tion, as if he apprehended mischief from us, as friends of the
Otaheiteans; these people having no idea that we can be in
friendship with any one, without adopting his cause against
his enemies. This chief was accompanied by his wife, who,
we were told, is sister to Omai, of Otaheite, whose death we
heard of while we remained at this island. Captain Cook
made them presents of such articles as seemed most to strike
their fancy; and, after staying about half an hour, they went
on shore. They returned, soon after, with a large hog, mean-
ing it as a return for the captain's favour; but he made them
an additional present to the full value of it; after which they
went on board the Discovery, to visit captain Clerke.
Maheine, supported with a few adherents, has made him-
self, in some degree, independent of Otaheite. He is between
forty and fifty years of age, and is bald-headed; which, at
that age, is rather uncommon in these islands. He seemed
ashamed of showing his head, and wore a kind of turban to
H h
a
VOL. II.

242
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
conceal it. Whether they considered this deficiency of hair
as disgraceful, or whether they supposed that we considered
it in that light, it is not easy to determine. The latter how-
ever, appears the most probable, from the circumstance of
their having seen us shave the head of one of the natives,
whom we detected stealing. They naturally concluded,
therefore, that this was the kind of punishment inflicted by
us upon all thieves; and some of our gentlemen, whose heads
were but thinly covered with hair, were violently suspected,
by them, of being tetos.
Towards the evening, captain Cook and Omai, mounted
on horseback, rode along the shore. Omai having forbid
the natives to follow us, our train was not very numerous;
the fear of giving offence, having got the better of their cu-
riosity. The fleet of Towha had been stationed in this har-
bour, and though the war was but of short duration, the
marks of its devastation were every where conspicuous. The
trees had lost all their fruit, and the houses in the neighbour-
hood had been burnt, or otherwise destroyed.
Having made every preparation for sailing, we hauled the
ship off into the stream, in the morning of the 6th, intending
to put to sea the next day, but a disagreeable accident pre-
vented it.
We had, in the day time, sent our goats ashore to graze;
and, notwithstanding two men had been appointed to look
after them, one of them had been stolen this evening. This
was a considerable loss, as it interfered with the captain's
views of stocking other islands with these animals: he there-
fore was determined, if possible, to recover it. We receiv-
ed intelligence, the next morning, that it had been conveyed
to Maheine, who was, at that time, at Parowroah harbour.
Two elderly men offered their services to conduct any of
our people to him, in order to bring back the goat. Accord-
ingly the captain dispatched some of his people in a boat,
charged with a message to that chief, and insisted on both
the goat and the thief being immediately given up.
Maheine had, only the day before, requested the commo-
dore to give him two goats; but, as he could not spare them,
without depriving other islands, which had none of these
animals, and was informed that there was two already upon
this, he refused to gratify him. Willing, however, to assist
his views, in this respect, he desired an Otaheite chief, then
present, to beg Otoo, in his name, to convey two of these
animals to Maheine; and, to induce him to comply with this
request, sent to Otoo, by the same chief, a quantity of red

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
243
feathers, equal in value to the two goats that were required.
The commodore expected that Maheine, and all the other
chiefs of the island, would have been perfectly satisfied with
this arrangement; but he was mistaken, as the event clearly
proves.
Little suspecting that any one would presume to steal a
a
second, while the necessary measures were taking to recover
the first, the goats were again put ashore this morning; and a
boat, as usual, was sent for them in the evening. While our
people were getting them into the boat, one was conveyed
away undiscovered. As it was immediately missed, we ex-
pected to recover it without much trouble, as it could not
have been carried to any considerable distance. Several of
the natives set out, different ways, to seek after it; for they
all endeavoured to persuade us, that it must have strayed in-
to the woods; not one of them admitting that it was stolen.
We were, however convinced to the contrary, when we per-
ceived that not one of the pursuers returned; their intention
was only to amuse us, till their prize was safely deposited;
and night coming on, prevented all future search. At this
instant, the boat returned with the other goat, and one of the
persons who had stolen it.
Most of the inhabitants, the next morning, were moved
off, taking with them a corpse, which lay opposite the ship,
on a toopapaoo; and Maheine, we were informed, had retired
to the remotest part of the island. It now plainly appeared,
that a regular plan had been projected to steal what the com-
modore had refused to give; and that, having restored one,
they were determined not to part with the other, which was
a female, and with kid: and the commodore was equally deter-
mined to have it back again; he therefore applied to the two
elderly men, who had been instrumental in recovering the first,
who informed him that this had been taken to a place on the
south side of the island, called Watea, by Hamoa, who was
the chief of that place; but that it would be delivered up
if
he would send for it. They expressed a willingness to con-
duct some of his people to the spot; but, finding that a boat
might go and return in one day, he sent one with two of his
officers, Mr. Roberts, and Mr. Shuttleworth; one to remain
with the boat, if she could not get to the place, while the
other went with the guides, accompanied by some of our peo-
ple. The boat returned late in the evening, when we were
informed by the officers, that, after proceeding in the boat as
far as rocks and shoals would permit, Mr. Shuttleworth land-
ed; and, attended with two marines, and one of the guides,

244
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
proceeded to the house of Hamoa, at Watea; where they
were, for some time, amused by the people who pretended
they had sent for the goat, and that it would soon be produc-
ed. It, however, never arrived; and, night approaching,
Mr. Shuttleworth was obliged to return to his boat with-
out it.
The commodore lamented that he had proceeded so far
in this business, as he could not retreat with credit, and
without giving encouragement to other islanders to rob us
with impunity. Consulting with Omai, and the two old men,
what methods to take, they advised him, without hesitation,
to go into the country with a party of men, and shoot every
person
he should meet with. The commodore did not ap-
prove of this bloody council; but, early the next morning, set
out with thirty-five of his people, accompanied by Omai, one
of the old men, and three or four attendants. He also order-
ed lieutenant Williamson round the western part of the island,
with three armed boats, to meet us.
This party had no sooner landed, than the few remaining
natives fled before us. The first person we met with upon
our march, was in a kind of perilous situation; for Omai, the
instant he beheld him, asked captain Cook if he should shoot
him; so fully was he persuaded, that the advice he had given,
was immediately to be carried into execution. The com-
modore then gave orders, both to him and our guide, to let
it be made known, that it was not our intention to injure,
much less to destroy, a single native. These joyful tidings
soon circulated, and prevented the flight of the inhabitants.
Ascending the ridge of hills, on our road to Watea, we
were informed that the goat had been carried the same way,
and could hardly have passed the hills: we therefore march-
ed
up
in
great silence, expecting to surprise the party who
were bearing off the prize; but when we arrived at the up-
permost plantation, we were told, that the animal we were
in search of, had indeed been kept there the first night, but
had been carried to Watea the next morning. We made no
further enquiry, till we came within sight of Watea, where
we were directed to Hamoa's house, by some people who
also informed us, that the goat was there. We therefore
fully expected to obtain it on our arrival, but when we reach-
ed the house, the people we saw there, denied that they had
ever seen it, or knew any thing concerning it. Hamoa him-
self appeared, and expressed himself to the same effect.
On our first coming to Watea, several men were seen,
running to and fro in the woods, with clubs and darts in

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
245
their hands; and Omai, who ran towards them, had stones
thrown at him. Hence it appeared, that they intended to
oppose any attempt that we might be induced to make, but
on seeing the strength of our party, had given up the design.
We were confirmed in this opinion, by observing that all
their houses were empty.
After collecting a few of the natives together, Omai was
directed to expostulate with them on the absurdity of their
conduct, and tell them that we had received sufficient evi-
dence that the goat was in their possession; and that if it was
not immediately delivered up, we should burn all their hou-
ses and canoes; but, notwithstanding this expostulation, they
persisted in their denial of having any knowledge of it. In
consequence of which, the commodore set fire to six or
eight of their houses, and two or three war canoes, which
were presently consumed. After this, we marched off to
join the boats, which were, at that time, about seven or eight
miles from us; and, in our road, burnt six other war canoes,
without any opposition. On the contrary, many of the na-
tives assisted us; more, perhaps, from fear, than any other
motive. At length Omai, who was at some distance before
us, came back with information, that a multitude of men
were assembled to attack us. We prepared ourselves to re-
ceive them, but instead of enemies, they were petitioners,
with plaintain- trees in their hands, which they laid down
before us, entreating the commodore to spare a canoe that
lay upon the spot, which he readily complied with.
About four o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at Whar-
rarade, where our boats were waiting for us. The district
of Wharrarade belongs to Tiarataboonoue; but this chief,
together with the other principal people of the place, had
fled to the hills; though we made no attack upon their pro-
perty, they being in amity with Otoo. Here we remained
about an hour, in order to rest ourselves, and afterwards
set out for the ships, where we arrived at eight o'clock in
the evening; but no tidings of the goat had, at that time,
been received; and, of course, the operations of the day had
been ineffectual.
Early on Friday morning, the 10th of October, the Captain
dispatched one of Omai's men to Maheine, charged with
this peremptory message, that if he persisted in his refusal
to deliver up the goat, a single canoe should not be left upon
the island; and that hostilities should never cease, while the
stolen animal continued in his possession. That the messen-
ger might perceive that the commodore was in earnest, he

246
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ordered the carpenter, in his presence, to break up three or
four canoes that lay at the head of the harbour. The planks
were, by his direction, taken on board, to serve as materials
for building a house for Omai, at the place where he intend-
ed to reside. The commodore, properly attended, went af-
terwards to the next harbour, where he destroyed seven or
eight more canoes, and returned on board about seven in the
evening. On his arrival; he was informed, that the goat had
been returned about half an hour before; and it appeared,
from good intelligence, that it came from the very place,
where the inhabitants, the day before, declared they knew
nothing about it. But, from the message delivered to the
chief in the morning, he perceived that the commodore was
not to be trifled with.
Thus ended this troublesome and unfortunate business;
equally to be regretted by the natives, and by captain Cook.
He was grieved to reflect, that after refusing to assist his
friends at Otaheite, in the invasion of this island, he should
soon be obliged to engage in hostilities against its inhabitants;
which, perhaps, were more injurious to them than Towha's
expedition.
Our intercourse with the natives was renewed the next
morning; several canoes bringing bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts
to the ships, to barter; whence it was natural to conclude,
that they were conscious they had merited the treatment
they had received; and that the cause of captain Cook's dis-
pleasure being now removed, they apprehended no further
mischief. We weighed, with a breeze, down the harbour,
about nine; but it was so faint and variable, that we did not
get out to sea till noon, when we steered for Huaheine,
Omai attending in his canoe.
At Eimeo, the ships were abundantly supplied with fire-
wood. We did not supply ourselves with this article at
Otaheite, as there is not a tree in Matavai but what is useful
to the inhabitants. We also received here a large supply of
refreshments in hogs, bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts.
There is very little difference between the produce of this
island, and that of Otaheite; but the difference in their wo-
men is remarkable. Those of Eimeo have a dark hue, are
low in stature, and have forbidding features.
The appearance of Eimeo bears not the least resemblance
to that of Otaheite. The latter being a hilly country, has
little low land, except some deep vallies, and the flat border
that almost surrounds it near the sea. Eimeo has steep rug-
ged hills, running in different directions, leaving large vallies

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
247
and gently rising grounds about their sides. The hills, though
rocky, are generally covered with trees, almost to the tops.
At the bottom of the harbour of Taloo, the ground gradu-
ally rises to the foot of the hills; but the flat border on the
sides, becomes quite steep at a small distance from the sea.
This renders it a prospect superior to any thing we saw at
Otaheite. In the low grounds, the soil is a yellowish stiff
mould; on the lower hills it is blacker and looser, and the
stone which composes the hills is of a bluish colour, inter-
spersed with some particles of glimmer. Near the place
where our ships were stationed, are two large stones, con-
cerning which some superstitious notions are entertained by
the natives. They consider them as brother and sister; that
they are Eatooas, or divinities, and that they came from
Ulietea, by some supernatural means.
On the morning that succeeded our departure from Eimeo,
we saw Huaheine extending from south-west by west, to
west by north. At twelve o'clock we anchored in the north-
ern entrance of Owharre harbour, situate on the west side
of the island. Omai, in his canoe, entered the harbour just
before us, but did not land. Tho' many of his countrymen
crowded to see him, he did not take much notice of them.
Great numbers also came off to the ships, insomuch that we
were greatly incommoded by them. Our passengers imme-
diately informed them of our transactions at Eimeo, mul-
tiplying, by ten at least, the number of houses and canoes
that we had destroyed. Captain Cook was not much dis-
pleased at their giving this exaggerated account, as he found
that it made a considerable impression upon all who heard
it; so that he had hopes that it would induce the natives of
this island to treat him in a better manner than they had
done in his prior visits.
Our arrival here,' says captain Cook, brought all the
principal people of the island to our ships. This was just
what I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai;
and the presence of these chiefs, I guessed, would enable
me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. He now seemed
to have an inclination to establish himself at Ulietea; and if
he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing that
plan to bear, I should have had no objection to adopt it. His
father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola, when
they conquered Ulietea, of some land in that island; and I
made no doubt of being able to get it restored to the son in
an amicable manner. For that purpose it was necessary he
should be upon good terms with those who were now masters
a

248
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
of the island; but he was too great a patriot to listen to any
such thing; and was vain enough to suppose, that I would
reinstate him in his forfeited lands by force. This made it
impossible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me
Huaheine as the proper place. I therefore resolved to avail
.
myself of the presence of the chief men of the island, and to
make this proposal to them.
After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to
pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce
this business. Omai dressed himself very properly on the
occasion; and prepared a very handsome present for the
chief himself, and another for his Eatooa. Indeed, after he
had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite,
he behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our
landing drew most of our visitors from the ships; and they
as well as those that were on shore, assembled in a large
house. The concourse of people, on this occasion, was very
great; and, amongst them, there appeared to be a greater
portion of personable men and women than we had ever
seen in one assembly at any one of these new islands. Not
only the bulk of the people seemed, in general, much stouter
and fairer than those of Otaheite, but there was also a much
greater number of men who appeared to be of consequence,
in proportion to the extent of the island; most of whom had
exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs of Wateeoo.
We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I could do noth-
ing till the Earee rahie came; but when he appeared, I found
that his presence might have been dispensed with, and was
not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood at a
little distance from this circle of great men, began with ma-
king his offering to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth,
&c. Then followed another offering, which was to be given
to the gods by the chiefs; and, after that, several other small
pieces and tufts of red feathers were presented. Each article
was laid before one of the company, who, I understood was
a priest, and was delivered with a set speech or prayer,
spoken by one of Omai's friends who sat by him, but mostly
dictated by himself. In these prayers, he did not forget his
friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back.
The Earee rahie no Pretane, Lord Sandwich, Toote, Tatee,
(Cook and Clerke) were mentioned in every one of them.
When Omai's offerings and prayers were finished the priest
took each article, in the same order in which it had been
laid before him, and after repeating a prayer, sent it to the

Plate 16.
Shalhar fecit
流​等​新
​sta
OF
UNIL
CA VIEW of HUAHEINE.
bior


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
249
a
morai; which, as Omai told us, was at a great distance, other-
wise the offerings would have been made there.
These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai
sat down by me, and we entered upon business, by giving
the young chief my present, and receiving his in return; and,
all things considered, they were liberal enough on both sides.
Some arrangements were next agreed upon, as to the manner
of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us; and I pointed out
the mischievous consequences that would attend their rob-
bing us, as they had done during my former visits. Omai's
establishment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs.
'He acquainted them, that he had been carried by us
into our country, where he was well received by the great
King and his Earees, and treated with every mark of regard
and affection, while he staid amongst us; that he had been
brought back again, enriched by our liberality, with a variety
of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen;
and that besides the two horses which were to remain with
him, several other new and valuable animals had been left at
Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient
number for the use of the islands in the neighbourhood. He
then signified to them, that it was my earnest request, in re-
turn for all my friendly offices, that they would give him a
piece of land, to build a house upon, and to raise provisions
for himself and servants; adding, that if this could not be
obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase,
I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him
there.
Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend,
than he actually delivered; but these were the topics I dic-
tated to him. I observed, that what he concluded with, about
carrying him to Ulietea, seemed to meet with the approba-
tion of all the chiefs; and I instantly saw the reason. Omai
had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered himself,
that I meant to use force in restoring him to his father's
lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly and without any
authority from me, on this subject, to some of the present
assembly; who dreamed of nothing less than a hostile inva.
sion of Ulietea, and of being assisted by me to drive the
Bolabola men out of that island. It was of consequence
therefore, that I should undeceive them; and, in order to
this, I signified, in the most peremptory manner, that I nei-
ther would assist them in such an enterprize, nor suffer it to
be
put
in execution, while I was in their seas; and that if
Omai fixed himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced as a
VOL. I.
I i

250
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
friend, and not forced upon the Bolabola men as their con-
queror.
This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of
the council. One of the chiefs immediately expressed him-
self to this effect. That the whole island of Huaheine and
every thing in it, were mine, and that therefore, I might
give what portion of it I pleased to my friend.' Omai, who,
like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond
the present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this; think-
ing, no doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him
enough. But to offer what it would have been improper to
accept, I considered as offering nothing at all, and therefore
I
I now desired, that they would not only assign the particular
spot, but also the exact quantity of land, which they would
allot for the settlement. Upon this, some chiefs, who had
already left the assembly, were sent for; and, after a short
consultation among themselves, my request was granted by
general consent; and the ground immediately pitched upon
adjoining to the house where our meeting was held. The
extent, along the shore of the harbour, was about two hun-
dred yards, and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat
more; but a proportional part of the hill was included in the
grant.
'This business being settled to the satisfaction of all par-
ties, I set up a tent ashore, established a post, and erected
the observatories. The carpenters of both ships were also set
to work, to build a small house for Omai, in which he might
secure the European commodities that were his property.
At the same time, some hands were employed in making a
garden for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, pine-apples,
melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable articles; all
of which I had the satisfaction of observing to be in a flour-
ishing state before I left the island.
'Omai began seriously to attend to his own affairs, and
repented seriously of his ill-judged prodigality while at
Otaheite. He found at Huaheine a brother, a sister, and a
brother-in-law; the sister being married But these did not
plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. I
was sorry, however to discover, that, though they were too
honest to do him any injury, they were of too little conse-
quence in the island to do him any positive good. They had
neither authority nor influence to protect his person or his
property; and, in that helpless situation, I had reason to ap-
prehend that he ran great risk of being stripped of every
thing he had got from us, as soon as he should cease to have
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
251
us within his reach, to enforce the good behaviour of his
countrymen, by an immediate appeal to our irresistible
power.
"A man who is richer than his neighbour is sure to be
envied, by numbers who wish to see him brought down to
their own level. But in countries where civilization, law,
and religion, impose their restraints, the rich have a reason-
able ground of security. And besides, there being, in all
such communities, a diffusion of property, no single indivi-
dual need fear that the efforts of all the poorer sort can ever
be united to injure him, exclusively of others, who are equally
the objects of envy. It was very different with Omai. He
.
was to live amongst those who are strangers, in a great mea-
sure, to any other principle of action besides the immediate
impulse of their natural feelings. But, what was his principal
danger, he was to be placed in the very singular situation, of
being the only rich man in the community to which he was
to belong. And having, by a fortunate connection with us,
got into his possession an accumulated quantity of a species
of treasure, which none of his countrymen could create by
any art or industry of their own; while all coveted a share
of this envied wealth, it was natural to apprehend that all
would be ready to join in attempting to strip its sole pro-
prietor.
• Το prevent this if possible, I advised him to make a pro-
per distribution of some of his moveables to two or three of
the principal chiefs, who, being thus gratified themselves,
might be induced to take him under their patronage, and
protect him from the injuries of others. He promised to
follow my advice; and I heard, with satisfaction, before I
sailed, that this very prudent step had been taken. Not
trusting, however, entirely to the operation of gratitude, I
had recourse to the more forcible motive of intimidation.
With this view, I took every opportunity of notifying to the
inhabitants, that it was my intention to return to their island
again, after being absent the usual time; and that, if I did
not find Omai in the same state of security in which I was
now to leave him, all those whom I should then discover to
have been his enemies might expect to feel the weight of
my resentment. This threatening declaration will, probably,
have no inconsiderable effect. For our successive visits of
late
years have taught these people to believe, that our ships
are to return at certain periods; and while they continue to
be impressed with such a notion, which I thought it a fair
a

252
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
stratagem to confirm, Omai has some prospect of being per-
mitted to thrive upon his new plantation.'
While we remained in this harbour, we carried the bread
on shore to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches
that infested the ship at this time, is almost incredible: the
damage we sustained from them was very considerable; and
every attempt to destroy them proved fruitless. If any kind
of food was exposed for a few minutes, it was covered with
these noxious insects, who soon pierced it full of holes, so
that it resembled an honey-comb. They proved particulary
destructive to birds, which had been stuffed for curiosities,
and were so fond of ink, that they eat out the writing on the
labels, fastened to different articles; and the only thing that
preserved books from their ravages, was the closeness of the
binding, which prevented these devourers from insinuating
themselves between the leaves. According to Mr. Anderson
they were of two sorts, the blatta orientalis, and germanica.
The intercourse of trade and friendly offices, between us
and the inhabitants of Huaheine, was undisturbed, by any
accident, till the evening of the 22d, when one of the natives
found means to get into Mr. Bailey's observatory, and carry
off a sextant, unobserved. Captain Cook was no sooner in-
formed of this theft, than he went ashore, and desired
Omai to apply to the chiefs, to procure restitution. He
accordingly made application to them, but they took no steps
towards recovering the instrument, being more attentive to
a heeva, that was then exhibiting, till the captain ordered
the performers to desist. Being now convinced that he was
in earnest, they began to make some inquiry after the de-
linquent, who was sitting in the midst of them, with such
marks of unconcern, that the captain was in great doubt of
his being guilty, particularly as he denied it. Omai, however,
assuring him that this was the person, he was sent on board
the ship and there confined. This raised an universal ferment
among the assembled islanders, and the whole body fled with
precipitation. The prisoner being examined by Omai, was
with some difficulty brought to confess where he had con-
cealed the sextant, and it was brought back unhurt the next
morning. After this, the natives recovered from their con-
sternation, and began to gather about us as usual. As the thief
appeared to be a shameless villain, captain Cook punished
him with greater severity than he had ever done any former
culprit. Besides having his head and beard shaved, he com-
manded that both his ears should be cut off, and then dis-
missed him.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
253
a
This punishment, however, did not deter him from com-
mitting other offences; for, early in the morning of the 25th,
a general alarm was spread , occasioned, as was reported, by
one of our goats being stolen by this very man; and though,
upon examination, we found every thing safe in that quarter, ,
yet it appeared, that he had destroyed and carried off from
Omai's grounds, several vines and cabbage-plants, and he
publicly threatened to put him to death, and set fire to his
house, as soon as we should quit this place. To prevent his
doing any further mischief, the captain ordered him to be
seized, and confined again on board the ship, with a view of
carrying him off the island; and this intention seemed to give
general satisfaction to all the chiefs. He was a native of
Bolabola; but there were too many of the people here ready
to co-operate with him in all his designs. We had indeed,
always met with more troublesome persons in Huaheine
than in any other of the adjacent islands; and it was only
fear, and the want of proper opportunities, that induced them
to behave better now. Anarchy and confusion seemed to
prevail among them. Their Earee rahie, as we have already
observed, was but a child; and we did not find, that there
was any individual, or any set of men, who held the reigns
of government for him; so that whenever any misunderstand-
ing occurred between us, we never knew, with sufficient
precision, to whom it was necessary to apply, in order to
effect an accommodation, or procure redress.
Omai's house being now almost finished, many of his
moveables were carried ashore on the 26th. Amongst a va-
riety of other useless articles was a box of toys, which, when
exposed to public view, seemed greatly to please the gazing
multitude. But, as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drink-
ing-mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic ac-
commodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would so
much as look at them. Omai himself now began to think
that they were of no manner of use to him; that a baked hog
was more savoury food than a boiled one; that a plantain-
leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter; and that a cocoa-
nut-shell was as convenient a goblet as a black-jack. And,
therefore, he very wisely disposed of as many of these arti-
cles of English furniture for the kitchen and pantry, as he
could find purchasers for, amongst the people of the ships;
and receiving from them in return, hatchets, and other iron
tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the
world, and added more to his distinguishing superiority
a
a

254
À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his
days.
Among the numerous presents bestowed upon him in
England, fire-works had not been omitted; some of which
we exhibited on the evening of the 28th, before a great mul-
titude of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleasure
and apprehension. Those which remained were put in order,
and left with Omai, pursuant to their original destination.
On Thursday the 30th, early in the morning, the Bolabo-
la-man whom we had in confinement, found means to escape
out of the ship, carrying with him the shackle of the bilboo-
bolt that had been put on his leg, which was taken from him
as soon as he arrived on shore, by one of the chiefs, and given
to Omai; who quickly came on board, to inform the captain
that his mortal enemy was again let loose upon him. We
found, upon inquiry, that the centry placed over the prisoner,
and even the whole watch, in that part of the ship where he
was confined, having fallen asleep, he seized the favourable
opportunity, took the key of the irons out of the drawer into
which he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. This
escape convinced the commodore, that his people had been
very remiss in their night-duty; which rendered it necessary
to chastise those who were now in fault, and to establish
some new regulations that might prevent similar negligence
in future. He was pleased at hearing, afterwards, that the
fellow who had escaped, had gone over to Ulieta.
Omai was no sooner settled in his new habitation, than
captain Cook began to think of departing from Huaheine, and
got every thing off from the shore this evening, except a
goat big with kid, and a horse and mare; which were left in
possession of our friend, who was now to be finally separated
from us. We also gave him a boar and two sows of the En-
glish breed; and he had got two or three sows of his own.
The horse had covered the mare during our continuance at
Otaheite; so that the introduction of a breed of horses into
these islands had probably succeeded, by this valuable pre-
'The history of Omai,' says captain Cook, will perhaps
interest a very numerous class of readers, more than any other
occurrence of a voyage, the objects of which do not, in ge-
neral, promise much entertainment. Every circumstance,
therefore, which may serve to convey a satisfactory account
of the exact situation in which he was left, will be thought
worth preserving; and the following particulars are added,
to complete the view of his domestic establishment. He had
а
sent.
a

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
255
a
picked up at Otaheite four or five Toutous, the two Zealand
youths remained with him; and his brother, and some others,
joined him at Hauheine: so that his family consisted already
of eight or ten persons; if that can be called a family, to
which not a single female, as yet, belonged; nor, I doubt,
was likely to belong, unless its master became less volatile.
At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto
himself a wife. The house which we erected for him was
twenty-four feet by eighteen; and ten feet high. It was
composed of boards, the spoils of our military operations at
Eimeo; and in building it, as few nails as possible were used,
that there might be no inducement, from the love of iron, to
pull it down. It was settled, that immediately after our de-
parture, he should begin to build a large house after the
fashion of his country; one end of which was to be brought
over that which we had erected, so as to enclose it entirely
for greater security. In this work, some of the chiefs
pro-
mised to assist him; and if the intended building should co-
ver the ground which he marked out, it will be as large as
most upon the island.
" His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet,
and cartouch-box; a fowling-piece; two pair of pistols; and
two or three swords or cutlasses. The possession of these
made him quite happy; which was my only view in giving
him such presents. For I was always of opinion, that he would
have been happier without fire-arms, and other European
weapons, than with them; as such implements of war, in the
hands of one, whose prudent use of them I had some grounds
for mistrusting, would rather increase his danger than es-
tablish his superiority. After he had got on shore every
thing that belonged to him, and was settled in his house, he
had most of the officers of both ships, two or three times to
dinner; and his table was always well supplied with the very
best provisions that the island produced.
Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon
the outside of his house:
Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777.
Resolution, Fac. Cook, Pr.
Naves
Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.
'On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, I took
the advantage of a breeze, which then sprung up at east, and
,
sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained on
board till the ships were under sail; when, to gratify their
curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then all took

256
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
their leave, except Omai, who remained till we were at sea,
We had come to sail by a hawser, fastened to the shore. In
casting the ship it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the
outer end was left behind, as those who cast it off, did not
perceive that it was broken; so that it became necessary to
send a boat to bring it on board. In this boat Omai went
ashore, after taking a very affectionate farewell of all the
officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till
he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to conceal his tears
failed; and Mr. King who went in the boat, told me that he
wept all the time in going ashore.
It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought
him safe back to the very spot from which he was taken. And
yet, such is the strange nature of human affairs, that it is
probable we left him in a less desirable situation than he was
in before his connexion with us. I do not mean by this, that
because he has tasted the sweets of civilized life, he must
become more miserable from being obliged to abandon all
thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this single
disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages he received
from us, have placed him in a more hazardous situation, with
respect to his personal safety. Omai, from being much ca-
ressed in England, lost sight of his original condition; and
never considered in what manner his acquisitions, either of
knowledge or of riches, would be estimated by his
country-
men at his return; which were the only things he could have
to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on
which he could build either his future greatness or happiness.
He seemed even to have mistaken their genius in this re-
spect; and, in some measure, to have forgotten their customs;
otherwise he must have known the extreme difficulty there
would be in getting himself admitted as a person of rank,
where there is, perhaps, no instance of a man's being raised
from an inferior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems
to be the very foundation of all distinction here, and of its
attendant, power; and so pertinaciously, or rather blindly ad-
;
hered to, that unless a person has some degree of it, he will
certainly be despised and hated, if he assumes the appearance
of exercising any authority. This was really the case, in
some measure, with Omai; though his countrymen were
pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments while we re-
mained amongst them. Had he made a proper use of the
presents he brought with him from England, this, with the
knowledge he had acquired by travelling so far, might have
enabled him to form the most useful connexions. But we

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
257
a
have given too many instances, in the course of our narra-
tive, of his childish inattention to this obvious means of ad-
vancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher,
though ridiculous nature; indeed, I might say, meaner; for
revenge, rather than a desire of becoming great, appeared to
actuate him from the beginning. This however, may be ex.
,
cused, if we consider that it is common to his countrymen.
His father was doubtless a man of considerable property in
Ulietea, when that island was conquered by those of Bola-
bola; and with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine,
where he died, and left Omai, with some other children;
who, by that means, became totally dependent. In this situ-
ation he was taken up by captain Furneaux, and carried to
England. Whether he really expected, from his treatment
there, that any assistance would be given him against the
enemies of his father and his country, or whether he imagi-
ned that his own personal courage and superiority of know-
ledge, would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of
Ulietea, is uncertain; but from the beginning of the voyage,
this was his constant theme. He would not listen to our re-
monstrances on so wild a determination, but flew into a pas-
sion, if more moderate and reasonable counsels were propos-
ed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated and attached to his
favourite scheme was he, that he affected to believe these
people would certainly quit the conquered island, as soon as
they should hear of his arrival at Otaheite. As we advanced,
however, on our voyage, he became more sensible of his er
ror; and by the time we reached the Friendly Islands, had
even such apprehensions of his reception at home, that he
would fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, under Feenou's
protection. At these islands he squandered away much of
his European treasure very unnecessarily; and he was equal-
ly imprudent at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of
making friends, as he had not any intention of remaining
there. At Matavai, he continued the same inconsiderate be-
haviour, till I absolutely put a stop to his profusion; and he
formed such improper connexions there, that Otoo, who was
at first much disposed to countenance him, afterwards open-
ly expressed his dislike of him, on account of his conduct.
It was not, however, too late to recover his favour; and he
might have settled, to great advantage, in Otaheite, as he
had formerly lived several years there, and was now a good
deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable present, of a very
,
large double canoe, we have seen above. The objection to
admitting him to some rank would have also been much les-
Kk
a
VOL. I.

258
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
sened, if he had fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always
find it more difficult to accomplish such a change of state
amongst his countrymen, than a stranger, who naturally
claims respect. But Omai remained undetermined to the
last, and would not, I believe, have adopted my plan of set-
,
tlement in Huaheine, if I had not so explicitly refused to
employ force in restoring him to his father's possessions.
Whether the remains of his European wealth, which, after
all his improvident waste, was still considerable, will be more
prudently used by him, or whether the steps I took, as al-
ready explained, to insure him protection in Huaheine, shall
have proved effectual, must be left to the decision of future
navigators of this ocean, with whom it cannot but be a prin-
cipal object of curiosity to trace the future fortunes of our
traveller. At present, I can only conjecture, that his greatest
danger will arise from the very impolitic declarations of his
antipathy to the inhabitants of Bolabola. For these people,
from a principle of jealousy, will, no doubt, endeavour to
render him obnoxious to those of Huaheine, as they are at
peace with that island at present, and may easily effect their
designs, many of them living there. This is a circumstance,
which, of all others, he might the most easily have avoided.
For they were not only free from any aversion to him, but a
person whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, or
priest, absolutely offered to reinstate him in the property that
was formerly his father's. But he refused this peremptorily;
and to the very last, continued determined to take the first
opportunity that offered, of satisfying his revenge in battle.
To this, I guess, he is not a little spurred by the coat of mail
he brought from England; clothed in which, and in posses-
sion of some fire-arms, he fancies that he shall be invincible.
" Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were
more than overbalanced by his great good nature and docile
disposition. During the whole time he was with me, I very
seldom had reason to be seriously displeased with his gene-
ral conduct. His grateful heart always retained the highest
sense of the favours he had received in England; nor will he
ever forget those who honoured him with their protection
and friendship, during his stay there. He had a tolerable
share of understanding, but wanted application and perse-
verance to exert it; so that his knowledge of things was very
general, and in many instances very imperfect. He was not
a man of much observation. There were many useful
arts,
as weil as elegant amusements, amongst the people of the
Friendly islands, which he might have conveyed to his own;

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
259
where they probably would have been readily adopted, as
being so much in their own way. But I never found that he
used the least endeavour to make himself master of
any one.
This kind of indifference is, indeed, the characteristic foible
of his nation. Europeans have visited them, at times, for these
ten years past; vet we could not discover the slightest trace of
any attempt to profit by this intercourse; nor have they
hitherto copied after us in any one thing. We are not, there-
fore, to expect that Omai will be able to introduce many of
our arts and customs amongst them, or much improve those
to which they have been long habituated. I am confident,
however, that he will endeavour to bring to perfection the
various fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no
small acquisition. But the greatest benefit these islands are
likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be in the animals
that have been left upon them; which, probably, they never
would have got, had he not come to England. When these
multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite,
and the Society Islands, will equal, if not exceed, any place
in the known world, for provisions.
Omai's return, and the substantial proofs brought back
with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer them-
selves as volunteers to attend me to Pretane. I took every
opportunity of expressing my determination to reject all such
applications. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very
ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, being afraid
lest I might be prevailed upon to put others in a situation of
rivalling him, frequently put me in mind, that lord Sandwich
had told him, no others of his countrymen were to come to
England.
If there had been the most distant probability of any ship
being again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought the
two youths of that country home with me, as both of them
were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eld-
est, was an exceedingly well disposed young man, with strong
natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. He
seemed to be very sensible of the inferiority of his own
country to these islands, and resigned himself, though per-
haps with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty
in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached to us,
that he was taken out of the ship and carried ashore by force.
He was a witty, smart boy; and on that account much noticed
on board.
As soon as the boat, in which Omai was conveyed ashore,
had returned, with the remainder of the hawser, to the ship,
we hoisted her in, and stood over for Ulietea without delay.

A A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
.
The next morning, which was the 3d of November, we made
sail round the southern end of that island, for the harbour of
Ohamaneno. We met with variable light airs and calms al-
ternately, so that, at 12 o'clock, we were still at the distance
of a league from the mouth of the harbour; and while we
were thus detained, Oreo, the chief of the island, with his
son and son-in-law, came off to pay us a visit. All the boats
were now hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow, being assisted
by a slight southerly breeze. This soon failing, and being
succeeded by an easterly one, which blew right out of the
harbour, we were obliged to anchor at its entrance, about two
o'clock, and warp in, which employed us till night. We were
no sooner within the harbour, than our ships were surround-
ed with canoes, filled with the natives, who brought a supply
of fruits and hogs, which they exchanged for our commodi-
ties.
The following day, the Resolution was moored close to
the northern shore, at the head of the harbour; and the Dig-
covery along-side the southern shore. Captain Cook, in the
mean time, returned Oreo's visit, and presented that chief
with a red feathered cap from Tongataboo, a shirt, a linen
gown, and a few other things of less value. Oreo, and some
of his friends, then accompanied him on board to dinner.
On Thursday the 6th, the observatories were set up, and
the necessary instruments carried on shore, The two suc-
ceedings days, captain Cook, Mr. King and Mr. Bailey, ob-
served the sun's azimuths, both on shore and on board, with
all the compasses, in order to discover the variation. No-
thing remarkable happened, till very early in the morning of
the 13th, when a marine, named John Harrison, who was
sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with him his
musket and accoutrements. As soon as we gained intelli-
gence which way he had gone, a party was detached in
search of him: but they returned towards the evening, with-
out success. The next day, captain Cook applied to the chief
concerning this affair, who promised to send a party of the
islanders after the fugitive, and gave us hopes
that he should
be brought back in the course of that day. This, however,
did not happen; and we had reason to imagine, that the chief
had taken no steps towards finding him.
We had, at this time, a considerable number of the na-
tives about our ships, and several thefts were committed;
the consequences of which being apprehended by them, very
few of them came to visit us the next morning. Oreo himself
caught the alarm, and fled with his whole family. Captain

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
261
Cook considered this as a good opportunity to insist upon
their delivering up the deserter; and having heard that he
was then at a place called Hamoa, situate on the other side
of the island, he repaired thither with two armed boats, at-
tended by a native. In their way, they met with the chief,
who also embarked with them. The captain, with a few of
his men, landing about a mile and a half írom the spot,
marched up to it, with great expedition, lest the sight of the
boats should give the alarm, and allow the offender sufficient
time to make his escape to the mountains. This precaution
proved unnecessary, for the natives of that part of the island
having obtained information of the captain's approach, were
prepared to deliver up the fugitive. He was found, with his
musket lying before him, seated betwixt two women, who,
the instant that the captain entered the house, rose up to
plead in his vindication. As such proceedings deserved to
be discouraged, the captain, with a stern look, bid them be
gone; upon which they burst into tears, and retired. Paha,
the chief of that district, now came with a sucking pig, and
a plantain tree which he was on the point of presenting to
captain Cook, as a peace-offering; who rejected it, and having
ordered the chief to quit his presence, embarked with Har-
rison in one of the boats, and returned to the ships. After
this, harmony was speedily restored. The delinquent made
no other excuse for his conduct, than that the natives had
enticed him away; which perhaps was in a great measure
true, as Paha, and the two women above mentioned, had
been at the ship the day before his desertion. As he had re-
mained at his station till within a few minutes of the time in
which he was to have been relieved by another, the punish-
ment he received was not very severe.
About a fortnight after we had arrived in Ulietea, Omai
despatched two of his people in a canoe, with intelligence,
that he continued undisturbed by the inhabitants of Hua-
heine, and that every thing succeeded with him, except that
his goat had died in kidding. This information was accom-
panied with a request, that captain Cook would send him
another goat, and also two axes. Pleased with this additional
opportunity of serving his friend, the captain sent back the
messengers to Huaheine on the 28th, with the axes, and a
male and female kid.
On Wednesday the 19th, the commodore delivered to
captain Clerke his instructions how to proceed, in case of
separation, after quitting these islands. The purport of these
instructions was as follows: That, whereas the passage from

262
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
the Society Isles to the northern coast of America was of
considerable length, and, as a part of it must be performed
in the depth of winter, when boisterous weather must be ex-
pected, which perhaps might occasion a separation, captain
Clerke should take all possible care to prevent this; but that,
if the two ships should chance to be separated, he, after
searching for captain Cook, and not finding him in five days,
was to proceed towards the coast of New Albion, and en-
deavour to fall in with it in the latitude of 45°, where he
was to cruise for him ten days; and not seeing him in that
time, was to put into the first convenient harbour, in or to
the north of that latitude, to obtain refreshments, and take
in wood and water: that, during his continuance in port, he
,
was constantly to look out for captain Cook; and if the latter
did not join him before the 1st of April following, he was to
proceed northward to the latitude of 56°, where, at such a
distance from the coast as did not exceed fifteen leagues, he
was to cruize for him till the 10th of May; and not finding
him, was to proceed on a northerly course, and attempt to
discover a passage into the Atlantic ocean, either through
Hudson's or Baffin's bays, as directed by the instructions of
the board of admiralty: that, if he should fail in those en-
deavours, he was to repair to the harbour of St. Peter and
St. Paul in Kamtschatka, and pass the winter there: but that
if he could not procure refreshments at that port, he was at
liberty to go where he should think proper, leaving with thie
governor, before his departure, an account of his destination,
to be delivered to captain Cook on his arrival; and that, in
the spring of the year following (1779) he was to return to
the port above mentioned: that if he then received no fur-
ther orders from captain Cook, so as to justify his pursuing
any other measures than those which were pointed out in the
instructions of the lords of the admiralty, his future pro-
ceedings were to be directed by them; and that, in case of
being prevented, by illness or any other cause, from
carry-
ing these, and the instructions of their lordships into execu-
tion, he was to leave them with the officer who was next in
command.
While we lay moored to the shore, we scrubbed both sides
of the bottoms of our vessels, and also fixed some plates of
tin under the binds. These plates captain Cook received from
the ingenious Mr. Pelham, secretary to the commissioners
for victualling the royal navy, for the purpose of trying
whether tin would succeed as well as copper, in sheathing the
bottoms of ships.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
263
On Monday the 24th, in the morning, the commodore was
informed that two of the Discovery's people, one of whom
was a midshipman, were missing. Not long after'we learned
from the natives, that they had embarked in a canoe the
preceding night, and were now at the other end of the
island. As the midshipman had expressed a desire of con-
tinuing at one of these islands, it was extremely probable
that he and his companion had gone off with that intent.
Captain Clerke therefore, with two armed boats, and a de-
tachment of marines, set out in quest of the fugitives, but
returned in the evening without success. From the conduct
of the islanders, he was of opinion that they intended to con-
ceal the deserters, and with this view had deceived him with
false information, directing him to seek for them where they
could not be found. He was not mistaken; for, the next
morning, intelligence was brought, that the two runaways
were in the Isle of Otaha. These not being the only persons
in the ships who were desirous of remaining at these favour-
ite islands, it was necessary, in order to give an effectual dis-
couragement to any further desertion, to recover them at all
events. Captain Cook therefore determined to go in pursuit
.
of them himself, having observed that the natives seldom
attempted to amuse him with false information. He accord-
ingly set out with two armed boats, accompanied by Oreo
himself. They proceeded, without stopping at any place, till
they came to the eastern side of Otaha, where they put
ashore; and the chief despatched a man before them, with
orders to seize the fugitives, and keep them till the captain
and his attendants should arrive with the boats. But when
they had got to the place where they expected to find them,
they were informed that they had quitted this island, and
gone to Bolabola the preceding day. The captain, not chu-
sing to follow them thither, returned to the ships, with a full
determination to have recourse to a measure, which, he had
reason to believe, would compel the natives to restore them.
On the 26th, soon after break of day, Oreo, with his son,
daughter, and son-in law, having come on board the Reso-
lution, captain Cook resolved to detain the three last, till our
deserters should be delivered
With this view, captain
Clerke invited them on board his ship; and as soon as they
arrived in his cabin, a sentinel was placed at the door, and
the window secured. This proceeding greatly surprised
them; and captain Clerke having explained the reason of it,
they burst into tears, and begged he would not kill them.
He assured them he would not, and that the moment his
up:

264
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
people were brought back, they should be released. This,
however, did not remove their uneasiness, and they bewailed
their fate in silent sorrow. The chief being with captain
Cook when he received intelligence of this affair, immedi-
ately mentioned it to him, imagining that this step had been
taken without his knowledge and approbation. The captain
instantly undeceived him; and then he began to entertain ap-
prehensions with respect to his own situation, and his coun-
tenance indicated the greatest perturbation of mind. But the
captain soon quieted his fears, by telling him, that he was at
liberty to quit the ship whenever he chose, and to take such
steps towards the recovery of our two men, as he should
judge best calculated for that purpose; and that, if he should
meet with success, his friends on board the Discovery should
be released from their confinement: if not, that they should
certainly be carried away with us. The captain added, that the
chief's conduct, as well as that of many of his countrymen, in
not only assisting these two men to make their escape, but in
endeavouring at this very time, to prevail upon others to fol-
low them, would justify any measure that would serve to put
a stop to such proceedings. This explanation of the motives
upon which the commodore acted, seemed to remove, in a
great degree, that general consternation into which Oreo,
and his people who were present, were at first thrown. But,
though relieved from all apprehensions with regard to their
own safety, they were still under the deepest concern for the
prisoners on board the Discovery. Numbers of them went
under the stern of that ship in canoes, and lamented their
captivity with long and loud exclamations. The name of
Poedooa (for that was the appellation of Oreo's daughter)
resounded from every quarter; and the women not only
made a most dismal howling, but struck their bosoms, and
cut their heads with shark's teeth, which occasioned a con-
siderable effusion of blood.
The chief now despatched a canoe to Bolabola, with a
message to poony, king of that island, informing him of
what had happened, and requesting him to seize the two de-
serters, and send them back. The messenger, who was the
father of Oreo's son-in-law Potoe, came to receive captain
Cook's commands before his departure; who strictly en-
joined him not to return without the fugitives, and to tell
Opoony from him, that, if they had left the isle of Bolabola,
he must send canoes in pursuit of them.
The impatient natives not thinking proper to trust to the
return of our people for the release of the prisoners, medi-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
265
tated an attempt, which, if it had not been prevented, might
have involved them in still greater distress. Between five
and six o'clock, captain Cook, who was then on shore, abreast
of the ship, observed that all their canoes, in and about the
harbour, began to move off. He inquired, in vain, for the
cause of this; till our people, calling to us from the Disco-
very, informed us that some of the islanders had seized
captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, as they were walking at a
small distance from the ships. The commodore, struck with
the boldness of this scheme of retaliation, which seemed to
counteract him in his own way, instantly commanded his
people to arm; and in a few minutes, a strong party, under
the conduct of Mr. King, was sent to the rescue of our two
gentlemen. Two arméd boats, and a party under Mr. Wil-
liamson, were despatched at the same time, to intercept the
flying canoes in their retreat to the shore. These detachments
had scarcely gone out of sight, when intelligence arrived that
we had been misinformed; upon which they were immedi-
ately called in.
It manifestly appeared, however, from several corroborat-
ing particulars, that the natives had actually formed the de-
sign of seizing captain Clerke; and they even made no secret
in speaking of it the following day. But the principal part
of their plan of operations was to have laid hold of the person
of captain Cook. He was accustomed to bathe every evening
in the fresh water; on which occasion he frequently went
alone, and always unarmed. Expecting him to go this eve-
ning as usual, they had resolved upon seizing him, and cap-
tain Clerke likewise, if he had accompanied him. But captain
Cock, after confining the chief's family, had taken care to
avoid putting himself in their power, and had cautioned cap-
tain Clerke and the officers, not to go to any considerable
distance from the ships. Oreo, in the course of the afternoon,
asked our commodore, three or four times, if he would not
go to the bathing-place; till at length finding he could not be
prevailed upon, he retired with his people, notwithstanding
all our intreaties to the contrary. Having no suspicion at this
time of their design, captain Cook imagined that a sudden
panic had seized them, which would probably be soon over.
Being disappointed with respect to him, they fixed upon those
who were more in their power. It was a fortunate circum-
stance that they did not succeed in their design, and that no
mischief was done on the occasion; no muskets being fired,
except two or three, to stop the canoes; to which firing, per-
L1
VOL. I.

266
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
haps, captain Clerke and Mr. Gore owed their safety;* for
at that moment, a party of the islanders, armed with clubs,
were marching towards them, but dispersed on hearing the
report of the muskets.
This conspiracy was first discovered by a girl, who had
been brought from Huaheine by one of our officers. She
happening to overhear some of the Ulieteans say, that they
would seize Messrs. Clerke and Gore, she immediately ran
to acquaint the first of our people that she met with. Those
who had been intrusted with the execution of the design,
threatened to put her death, as soon as we should quit Ulie-
tea, for disappointing them. Being aware of this, we con-
trived that the girl's friends should come a day or two after-
wards, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place
where she might remain concealed, till she should find an
opportunity of returning to Huaheine.
On Thursday the 27th, we took down our observatories,
and carried on board whatever we had ashore; we then un-
moored the ships, and moved a little way down the harbour,
where we anchored again. Towards the afternoon, the na-
tives shaking off their apprehensions, gathered round, and on
board our ships as usual; and the unpleasing transactions of
the preceding day seemed to be almost forgotten by both
parties. In the succeeding night the wind blew in hard
squalls, which were accompanied with heavy showers of
rain. In one of these squalls, the cable by which the Reso-
lution was riding at anchor, parted; but as we had another
anchor ready to let go, the ship was quickly brought up
again.
No account of our two fugitives having been received
from Bolabola, Oreo now set out for that island, desiring
captain Cook to follow him the next day with the ships. This
was the captain's intention; but the wind prevented our get-
ting out to sea. The same wind, however, which detained
us in the harbour, brought back Oreo, with the two deserters,
from Bolabola. They had reached Otaha on the night of de-
sertion; but being unable, for the want of wind, to get to any
of the islands lying to the eastward, as they at first intended,
they proceeded to Bolabola, and thence to a little island
called Toobaee, where they were apprehended by Pootoe's
father. As soon as they were brought on board, the three
* It is not improbable that that they were also indebted for their safety
to captain Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired.
We mention this circumstance on the authority of captain King.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
267
a
prisoners in the Discovery were restored to their liberty.
Such was the termination of an affair which had given the
commodore much trouble and vexation.
The wind continuing constantly between the north and
west, kept us in the harbour till Sunday the 7th of Decem-
ber; when at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed and
made sail with a light breeze at the northeast point. During
the preceding week, we had been visited by persons from all
quarters of the island, who afforded us a plentiful supply of
hogs and green plantains, so that the time we remained wind.
bound in the harbour was not totally lost; for green plantains
are an excellent succedaneum for bread, and will keep good
for two or three weeks. Besides being furnished with these
provisions, we also took in plenty of wood and water.
The Ulieteans appeared to be, in general, smaller and
more black than the natives of the adjacent islands, and
seemed also less orderly, which may, perhaps, be owing to
their having become subject to the inhabitants of Bolabola.
Oreo, their chief, is only a kind of deputy of the Bolabolan
monarch; and the conquest seems to have diminished the
number of subordinate chiefs resident among them; they are,
therefore, less immediately under the eye of those whose in-
terest it is to enforce a proper obedience. Though Ulietea
is now reduced to this state of humiliating dependence, it
was formerly, as we were informed, the most eminent of this
group of islands, and was probably the first seat of govern-
ment; for we were told that the present royal family of Ota-
heite derives its descent from that which ruled here before
the late revolution. The dethroned king of Ulietea, whose
name is Ooroo, resides at Huaheine, furnishing, in his own
person, an instance not only of the instability of power, but
also of the respect paid by these islanders to particular fami-
lies of princely rank; for they allow Ooroo to retain all the
ensigns which are appropriated by them to royalty, notwith-
standing his having been deprived of his dominions. We
observed a similar instance of this during our stay at Ulietea,
where one of our occasional visitants was captain Cook's old
friend Oree, late chief of Huaheine. He still maintained his
consequence, and was constantly attended by a numerous
retinue.
Having taken our leave of Ulietea, we steered for Bola-
bola. Our principal reason for visiting this island was, to
procure one of the anchors which had been lost at Otaheite,
by monsieur de Bougainville. This, we were informed, had
been afterwards found by the natives there, and sent by them

268
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
to Opoony, the chief of Bolabola. It was not on account of
our being in want of anchors that we were anxious to get
possession of it; but having parted with all our hatchets, and
other iron tools and implements, in purchasing refreshments,
we were now obliged to create a fresh assortment of trading
articles, by fabricating them from the spare iron we could
find on board, and even the greatest part of that had been
already expended. Captain Cook, therefore, supposed Mons.
de Bougainville's anchor would, in a great measure, supply
our want of this useful material, and he did not entertain a
doubt that Opoony might be induced to part with it.
Oreo, accompanied by six or eight others from Ulietea,
attended us to Bolabola; and indeed, most of the natives,
except the chief, would gladly have taken a passage with us
to England. At sun-set, being off the south point of Bolabola,
we shortened sail, and passed the night making short boards.
On the 8th, at day-break, we made sail for the harbour, on
the west side of the island. The wind being scant, it was
nine o'clock before we were near enough to send away a boat
to sound the entrance.
The master, when he returned with the boat, reported that
the entrance of the harbour was rocky at the bottom, but that
there was good ground within, and the depth of water twen-
ty-five and twenty-seven fathoms; and that there was room
to turn the ships in. Upon this information, we attempted
to work the ships in; but the wind and tide being against us,
we made two or three trips, and found it could not be ac-
complished till the tide should turn in our favour. Where-
upon captain Cook gave up the design of carrying the ships
into the harbour, and embarking in one of the boats, attended
by Oreo and his companions, was rowed in for the island.
As soon as they were got ashore, the commodore was in-
troduced to Opoony, surrounded by a vast concourse of peo-
ple. The necessary formality of compliments being over, he
requested the chief to give him the anchor; and to induce
him to comply with the request, produced the present he in-
tended for him. It consisted of a linen night-gown, some
gauze handkerchiefs, a shirt, a looking-glass, some beads and
toys, and six axes. Opoony, however, refused to accept the
present till the commodore had received the anchor; and or-
dered three persons to go and deliver it to him; with direc-
tions to receive from him what he thought proper in return.
With these messengers we set out in our boats for a neigh-
bouring island, where the anchor had been deposited; but it
was neither so large, nor so perfect, as we expected. By the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
269
mark that was upon it, we found that it had originally weigh-
ed seven hundred pounds; but it now wanted the two palms,
the ring, and part of the shank. The reason of Opoony's re-
fusing captain Cook's present was now apparent; he doubtless
supposed that the anchor in its present state, was so much
inferior to it in value, that when he saw it, he would be dis-
pleased. The commodore, notwithstanding, took the anchor
as he found it, and sent the whole of the present which he at
first intended. This negotiation being completed, the com-
modore returned on board, hoisted in the boats, and made
sail to the north. While we were hoisting in the boats, we
were visited by some of the natives, who came off in three
or four canoes, to see the ships. They brought with them
one pig, and a few cocoa-nuts.
Had we remained there till the next day, we should pro-
bably have been supplied with plenty of provisions; and the
natives would, doubtless, be disappointed when they found
we were gone: but, having already a good stock of hogs and
fruit on board, and not many articles left to purchase more,
we had no inducement to defer the prosecution of our voy-
age.
Oteavanooa, the harbour of Bolabola, situated on the west
side of the island, is very capacious; and, though we did not
enter it, captain Cook had the satisfaction of being informed,
by persons employed by him for that purpose, that it was a
very proper place for the reception of ships.
Towards the middle of this island is a lofty double-peaked
mountain, which appeared to be barren on the east side, but
on the west side, has some trees or bushes. The lower-
grounds, towards the sea, like the other islands of this ocean,
are covered with cocoa-palms, and bread-fruit trees. There
are many little islets that surround it, which add to the num-
ber of its inhabitants, and to the amount of its vegetable pro-
ductions.
Considering the small extent of Bolabola, being only eight
leagues in circumference, it is remarkable that its people
should have been able to conquer Ulietea and Otaha; the
former of which island is, alone, more than double its size.
In each of captain Cook's three voyages, the war which
pro-
duced this great revolution, was frequently mentioned; and,
as it may amuse the reader, we shall give the history of it as
related by themselves.
Ulietea and Otaha had long been friends; or, as the na-
tives emphatically express it, they were considered as two
brothers, whose views and interests were the same. The

270
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
island of Huaheine was also admitted as their friend, but not
in so eminent a degree. Like a traitor, Otaha leagued with
Bolabola, jointly to attack Ulietea; whose people required
the assistance of their friends of Huaheine, against these
united powers. The inhabitants of Bolabola were encouraged
by a prophetess, who predicted their success; and, that they
might rely upon her prediction, she desired a man might be
sent to a particular part of the sea, where, from a great depth,
would arise a stone. He was accordingly sent in a canoe to
the place specified, and was going instantly to dive after the
stone, when, behold, it spontaneously started up to the sur-
face, and came immediately into his hand! All the people
were astonished at the sight; the stone was deemed sacred,
and deposited in the house of the Eatooa; and is still preserv-
ed, as a proof that this prophetess had great influence with
the divinity. Elevated with the hopes of victory, the canoes
of Bolabola attacked those of Ulietea and Huaheine; the en-
counter was of long duration, and notwithstanding the mira-
cle, the Bolabola fleet would have been vanquished, had not
that of Otaha arrived at the critical moment. The fortune of
the day was now turned, and their enemies were totally de-
feated. Two days after, the men of Bolabola invaded Hua-
heine, of which they made themselves masters; it being weak-
ly defended, as most of its warriors were then absent. Many
of its fugitives, however having got to Otaheite, there relat-
ed their lamentable tale. This so affected their own coun-
trymen, and those of Ulietea whom they found in that island,
that they obtained their assistance. They were furnished
with only ten fighting canoes, and with that inconsiderable
force, effected a landing at Huaheine, when dark at night;
and taking the Bolabola men hy surprise, killed many of them,
and dispersed the rest. Thus they again possessed them-
selves of their own island, which now remains independent,
and is governed by its own chiefs. When the united fleets
of Ulietea and Huaheine were defeated, the men of Bolabola
were applied to by their allies of Otaha to be allowed an
equal share of the conquests. This being refused, the allies
broke; and, during the war, Otaha was conquered, as well as
Ulietea, both of which remain subject to Bolabola; the chiefs
by whom they are governed, being only deputies to Opoony,
the king of that island.
Such was their history of the war. It has already been
observed, that these people are extremely deficient in recol.
lecting the exact dates of past events. And, respecting this
war, though it happened but a few years ago, we could only
а

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
271
guess at the time of its commencement and duration, the na-
tives not being able to satify our inquiries with any pre-
cision. The final conquest of Ulietea, which terminated the
war, had been achieved before captain Cook was there in
1769; but it was very apparent that peace had not been long
restored, as marks of recent hostilities having been commit-
ted were then to be seen. By attending to the age of Tee-
reetareea, the present chief of Huaheine, some additional col-
lateral proof may be gathered. He did not appear to be
above ten or twelve years of age, and his father, we were in-
formed, had been killed in one of the engagements.
The Bolabola men, since the conquest of Ulietea and Ota-
ha, are considered as invincible; and their fame is so far ex-
tended, that even at Otaheite, if not dreaded, they are res-
pected for their valour. It is asserted, that they never fly
from an enemy, and that they always are victorious against
an equal number of the other islanders. Their neighbours,
too, ascribe much to the superiority of their god, who, they
believed, detained us by contrary winds at Ulietea.
The estimation in which the Bolabola men are held at
Otaheite, may be gathered from monsieur Bougainville's an-
chor having been sent to their sovereign. The intention of
transporting the Spanish bull to their island, must be ascrib-
ed to the same cause. And they already possessed a third
European curiosity, a male animal brought to Otaheite by
the Spaniards. This animal had been so imperfectly describ-
ed by the natives, that we had been much puzzled to conjecture
what it could be. Some good, however, generally arises out
of evil. When captain Clerke's deserters were brought back
from Bolabola, they told us the animal had been shown to
them, and that it was a ram. If our men had not deserted,
it is probable, we should never have known this.
In consequence of this intelligence, captain Cook, when he
landed to meet Opoony, carried an ewe on shore, of the cape
of Good Hope breed, by which he has probably laid the foun-
dation for a breed of sheep at Bolabola. He also left with
Oreo, at Ulietea, two goats, and an English boar and sow;
so that the race of hogs will be considerably improved at
Otaheite, and all the neighbouring islands; and they will,
perhaps be stocked with many valuable European animals.
When this is really the case, these islands will be unrival-
led in abundance and variety of refreshments for the supply
of navigators. Even in their present state, they are hardly
to be excelled. When the inhabitants are not disturbed by
a
a

272
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
meat.
a
intestine broils, which has been the case for several years
past, their productions are numerous and plentiful.
If we had possessed a greater assortment of goods, and a
proper quantity of salt, we might have salted as much pork
as would have been sufficient to last both ships almost a year.
But we quite exhausted our trading commodities at the
Friendly Islands, Otaheite, and its neighbourhood. Our axes,
in particular, were nearly gone, with which, alone, hogs were,
in general to be purchased. The salt that remained on board,
was not more than requisite for curing fifteen puncheons of
The following process of curing pork has been adopted by
captain Cook in his several voyages. The hogs were killed
in the evening; when cleaned they were cut up, and the bone
taken out. The meat was salted while it was hot, laid so as
to permit the juices to drain from it, till the next morning: it
was then salted again, put into a cask, and covered with pic-
kle. It remained in this situation, four or five days; when it
was taken out and carefully examined; and, if any of it ap-
peared to be in the least tainted, which was sometimes the
case,
it
was separated from the rest, which was repacked,
headed
up, and filled with good pickle. It was again exam-
ined in about eight or ten days time, but there appeared to
be no necessity for it, as it was generally found to be all per-
fectly cured. Bay and white salt, mixed together, answers
the best, though either of them will do alone. Great care
was taken that none of the large blood vessels remained in
the meat; and not too much should be packed together at the
first, salting, lest those pieces which are in the middle should
heat, and hinder the salt from penetrating them. In tropical
climates, meat ought not to be salted in rainy sultry weather.
Europeans having of late, so frequently visited these island-
ers, they may, on that account, have been induced to breed a
larger stock of hogs; knowing that, whenever we come, they
may be certain of receiving what they esteem a valuable con-
sideration for them. They daily expect the Spaniards at
Otaheite, and, in two or three years time, they will doubtless
expect the English there, as well as at the other islands. It
is useless to assure them that you will not return, for they sup-
posé you cannot avoid it; though none of them either know,
or inquire, the reason of your coming. It would, perhaps,
have been better for these people, to have been ignorant of
our superiority, than, after once knowing it, to be abandoned
to their original incapacity. They cannot, indeed, be restor-
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
273
a
ed to their former happy mediocrity, if the intercourse be-
tween us should be discontinued.
It is, in a manner, incumbent on the Europeans to pay them
occasional visits (once in three or four years) to supply them
with those articles, which we, by introducing, have given
them a predilection for. The want of such supplies, may be
severely felt, when it is too late to return to their old imper-
fect contrivances, which they now despise and discard.
When the iron tools, with which we have furnished them,
are worn out, their own will be almost forgotten. A stone
hatchet is now as great a curiosity among them, as an iron
one was seven or eight years ago, and a chissel made of bone,
or stone, is no where to be seen. Spike nails have been sub-
stituted in the room of the latter articles; and they are weak
enough to imagine, that their store of them is inexhaustible,
for they were no longer sought after.
Knives happened, at this time, to be in high estimation at
Ulietea; and axes and hatchets bore unrivalled sway at all
the islands. Respecting articles merely ornamental, these
islanders are as changeable as the most polished European
nations; for, an article which may be prized by them to day,
may, perhaps, be rejected to-morrow, as a fashion or whim
may alter. But our iron implements are so evidently useful,
that they must continue to be high in their estimation. They
would, indeed, be miserable, if they should cease to receive
supplies of what appears necessary to their comfortable ex-
istence; as they are destitute of the materials, and ignorant
of the art of fabricating them.
In our former relations, too much has already been pub-
lished, respecting some of the modes of life, which rendered
Otaheite so pleasing an abode to many of our people; and if
we could add any finishing strokes to that picture, we should
be unwilling to exhibit a view of such licentious manners as
cannot fail to be disgusting.
Having now concluded our account respecting these islands,
which stand so conspicuous in the list of our discoveries, we
refer the reader to the following descriptions, for which we
are indebted to Mr. Anderson.
' After some prefatory remarks, on the accounts of the
successive voyages of captain Wallis, Monsieur de Bougain-
ville, and captain Cook, Mr. Anderson begins to relate such
particulars concerning Otaheite, and its neighbouring islands,
as he was able to procure from Omai, or by conversing with
the other natives.
VOL. I.
Mm

274
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
For the greatest part of the year, the wind blows from be-
tween east-southeast, and east-northeast. It sometimes
blows with considerable force, and is called by the natives
Maaraee. When the wind blows strong, the weather is usu-
ally cloudy, with some rain; but, when it is more moderate,
it is clear, settled, and serene: if the wind should veer to
southeast, or south-southeast, it blows more gently, and is
called Maoai. In December and January, when the sun is
nearly vertical, both the winds and weather are very varia-
ble; but it often blows from west-northwest, or northwest.
This wind is called Toerou; and is usually attended by clou-
dy weather, and sometimes rain. It seldom continues more
than five or six days without interruption; and is the only
wind that will permit the inhabitants of the islands to lee-
ward to visit this in their canoes. If the wind is still more
northerly, it has the different appellation of Era-potaia. The
wind from southwest, and west-southwest, is more frequent
than the former, and is usually gentle, with occasional calms
and breezes; yet it sometimes blows in very brisk squalls.
The weather is then generally cloudy and rainy, with a close
hot air; often accompanied with much thunder and lightning.
It is called by the natives Etoa.
Though the natives have no very accurate knowledge of
these changes, they pretend to have drawn some conclusions
from their effects. When the sea has a hollow sound, and
dashes mildly on the shore, they say it portends good weather;
but if it sounds harshly, and the waves rapidly succeed
each other, the reverse is to be expected.
The southeast part of Otaheite, affords one of the most
luxuriant prospects in the universe. The hills are high, steep
and craggy; but they are covered to the very summits with
;
trees and shrubs; the rocks seeming to possess the property
of producing their verdant clothing. The lower land and
vallies teem with various productions, that grow with exu-
berant vigour, and convey to the mind of the beholders, an
idea, that no country upon earth can vie with this in the
strength and beauty of vegetation; nature has been equally
liberal in distributing rivulets, which glide through every
valley, dividing, as they approach the sea,
into several branch-
es, fertilizing the lands through which they run.
The habitations of the natives are irregularly scattered
upon the flat land; and many of them, along the shore, afford-
ed us a delightful scene from our ships; especially as the sea,
within the reef, is perfectly still, and affords, at all times, a
safe navigation for the inhabitants, who are often seen pas-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
275
a
sing and repassing in their canoes. On beholding these de-
lightful scenes, I have often regretted my inability to trans-
mit such a description of them, as would convey an impres-
sion somewhat similar to what I felt, who have been fortu-
nate enough to have been on the spot. The natural fertility
of the country, combined with the mildness and serenity of
the climate, has rendered the natives so careless in their cul-
tivation, that the smallest traces of it cannot, in many places
discovered, though overflowing with the richest productions.
The cloth plant, and the ava, or intoxicating pepper, are al-
most the only things to which they show
any attention.
The bread-fruit tree is never planted, but springs from the
roots of the old ones, which spread themselves near the sur-
face of the ground. Hence we may observe, that the inhabi-
tants of Otaheite, instead of being under a necessity of plant-
ing their bread, will rather be obliged to prevent its progress;
which is, perhaps, sometimes done, to afford room for a dif-
ferent sort of trees, which may enable them to make some
variety in their food.
The principal of these trees are the cocoa-nut and plantain;
the first of which requires no attention, after it appears a foot
or two above the ground; but the plantain requires some care
in the cultivation; for, about three months after it shoots up,
it begins to bear fruit; during which time it puts
forth
young
shoots, which supply a succession of fruit; the old stocks be-
ing cut down as the fruit is taken off.
The products of the island are more remarkable for their
great abundance than for their variety; and curiosities here
are not very numerous. Among these may be reckoned a
large lake of fresh water, on the top of one of the highest
mountains, at the distance of almost two days' journey. It is
remarkable for its depth, and abounds with eels of an enor-
mous size. This being esteemed the greatest natural curiosity
of the country, travellers who come from other islands are usu-
ally asked, among the
first things, at their return, whether
they have seen it. There is also a small pond of water on
this island, which has a yellow sediment at the bottom. It
has the appearance of being very good, but has an offensive
taste, and often proves fatal to those who drink a quantity of
it; and those who bathe in it, break out in blotches.
On our arrival here, we were struck with the remarkable
contrast between the inhabitants of Tongataboo, and those
of Otaheite; the former being of a robust make, and dark co-
lour, and the latter having a distinguished delicacy and white
That difference, however, did not immediately pre.
ness.

276
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ponderate in favour of the Otaheiteans; and, when it did, it
was perhaps occasioned more by our becoming accustomed
to them; the marks, which had recommended the others, be-
ginning now to be forgotten.
The women, however, of Otaheite, possess all those deli-
cate characteristics, which in many countries distinguish them
from the other sex. The men wear their beards long
here, and their hair considerably longer than at Tongataboo,
which
gave them a very different appearance. The Otaheite-
ans are timid and fickle. They are not so muscular and ro-
bust as the Friendly islanders, arising, perhaps, from their
being accustomed to less action; the superior fertility of their
country enabling them to lead a more indolent life. They
have a plumpness and smoothness of the skin, which, though
more consonant with our ideas of beauty, is far from being
an advantage; and is attended with a kind of languor in all
their motions. This is visible in their boxing and wrestling,
which display only the feeble efforts of children, if compared
to the vigour and activity with which such exercises are per-
formed at the Friendly islands.
As personal endowments are in high estimation among
them, they have various methods of improving them, ac-
cording to their ideas of beauty. Among the Erreos, or
unmarried men, especially those of some consequence, it is
customary to undergo a kind of physical operation, to ren-
der them fair; which is done by continuing a month or two
in the house, wearing a great quantity of clothes the whole
time, and eating nothing but bread-fruit, which they say is
remarkably efficacious in whitening the skin. They also inti-
mate, that their corpulence and colour, at other times, de-
pend upon their food; being obliged, as the seasons vary, to
use different food at different times.
Nine-tenths, at least, of their common diet, consist of ve-
getable food; and the mahee, or fermented bread-fruit, which
is an article in almost every meal, prevents costiveness, and
has a singular effect in producing a coolness about them,
which was not perceivable in us who fed on animal food. To
this temperate course of life, may perhaps be attributed their
having so few diseases among them. Indeed, they mention
only five or six chronic or national disorders; among which
are the dropsy, and the fefai, mentioned as frequent at Ton-
gataboo. This was, however, before the arrival of the Euro-
peans; for we have added a disease to their catalogue, which
;
abundantly supplies the place of all the others, and is become
almost universal; and for which they seem to have no effec-
tual remedy. The priests, indeed, administer a medley of
a

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
277
a
simples, but they acknowledge it never cures them. They
admit, however, that in some few cases, nature alone has ex-
terminated the poison of this loathsome disease, and produc-
ed a perfect recovery. They say also, that those infected
with it, communicate it to others, by handling them, or feed-
ing on the same utensils.
They show an openness, and generosity of disposition, up-
on all occasions. Omai, indeed, has frequently said, that
they exercise cruelty in punishing their enemies, and tor-
ment them with great deliberation; sometimes tearing out
small pieces of flesh from different parts of the body; at other
times, plucking out the eyes, then cutting off the nose; and
lastly, completing the business, by opening the belly. But
this is only on very extraordinary occasions. If cheerfulness
results from conscious innocence, one would imagine their
whole lives had been unsullied with a crime. This, however,
may be rather imputed to their feelings, which, though live-
ly, are never permanent. Under any misfortune, after the
critical moment is past, they never labour under the appear-
ance of anxiety. Care never produces a wrinkle on their
brow; even the approach of death does not deprive them of
their vivacity. I have seen them, when on the brink of the
grave by disease, and when preparing to attack the enemy;
but, in neither of these cases, have I ever observed their
countenances overclouded with melancholy or dread.
Disposed, as they naturally are, to direct their aims to
what will afford them ease or pleasure, all their amusements
tend to excite their amorous passions; and their songs,
with
which they are greatly delighted, are directed to the same
purpose. A constant succession of sensual enjoyment, must
however cloy; and they occasionally varied them to more re-
fined subjects; they chanted their triumphs in war, and their
amusements in peace; their travels and adventures; and the
peculiar advantages of their own island.
This shows that they are immoderately fond of music, and
though they did not relish our complicated compositions, they
were much delighted with the more melodious sounds, when
produced singly, as they, in some degree, resembled the
simplicity of their own. They equally experience the sooth-
ing effects produced by particular kinds of motion; which, in
many cases, will allay any perturbation of mind, as succes-
fully as music. Of this, the following may serve as a re-
markable instance. Walking, one day, about Matavai point,
I saw a man in a small canoe, paddling with such expedition,
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278
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attention. At first, I supposed he had been pilfering from
one of the ships, and was pursued; but he presently repeated
his amusement. He proceeded from the shore to the place
where the swell begins; and, attentively watching its first
motion, paddled swiftly before it, till he perceived it over-
took him, and had acquired sufficient strength to force his
canoe before it, with passing underneath. He then ceased
paddling, and was carried along as rapidly as the wave, till
he was landed upon the beach; when he started from his ca-
noe, emptied it, and went in pursuit of another swell. He
seemed to experience the most supreme delight, while he
was thus swiftly and smoothly driven by the sea. His mind
was so wholly occupied in this business, that, though crowds
of his countrymen were collected to observe our tents and
ships, as being objects that were both rare and curious to
them, he did not notice them in the least. Two or three of
the natives drew near, while I was observing him, and seem-
ed to partake of his felicity; calling out to inform him when
there was an appearance of a favourable swell. This exercise,
which I understand is very frequent among them, is called
ehoroe.
Though the language of Otaheite seems radically the same
as that of New-Zealand and the Friendly islands, it has not
that guttural pronunciation, and is pruned of some of the con-
sonants, with which those dialects abound; which has ren-
dered it, like the manners of the inhabitants, soft and sooth-
ing. It abounds with beautiful and figurative expressions,
and is so copious, that they have above twenty different
names for the bread-fruit; as many for the taro root, and
half that number for the cocoa-nut,
They have one expression corresponding exactly with the
phraseology of the Scriptures, viz. Yearning of the bow-
els. They use it upon every occasion, when affected by the
passions; constantly referring pain from grief, desire, and
other affections, to the bowels, as the seat of it; where, they
imagine, all operations of the mind are also performed.
In the arts, they are extremely deficient; yet they pretend
to perform cures in surgery, which our knowledge in that
branch has not enabled us to imitate. Simple fractures are
bound
up with splints, but, if a part of the bone be lost, they
insert, between the fractural ends, a piece of wood made hol-
low, to supply its place. The rapaoo, or surgeon, inspects
the wound in about five or six days, when he finds the wood
is partly covered by the growing flesh: and, in as many more
days, visits the patient a second time, when it is generally

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
279
а
comptetely covered; and, when he has acquired some strength,
he bathes in the water, and is restored.
Wounds, it is well known, will heal over leaden bullets,
and there are some instances of their healing over other ex-
traneous bodies. But what makes me entertain some doubt
of the truth of this relation, is, that in those cases which fell
under
my observation, they were far from being so dexter-
ous. I was shown the stump of an arm, which had been taken
,
off, that had not the appearance of a skilful operation, after
making a due allowance for their defective instruments. And
I saw a man going about with a dislocated shoulder, some
months after he had received the accident, from their being
unacquainted with a method of reducing it; though it is one
of the simplest operations of our surgery.
Fractures of the spine, they know, are mortal; and they
also know, from experience, in what particular parts of the
body wounds prove fatal. Their physical knowledge seems
yet more limited, because, perhaps, their diseases are fewer
than their accidents. In some cases, however, the priests
administer the juices of herbs; and women afflicted with
after-pains, or other complaints, after child-bearing, use a re-
medy which seems unnecessary in a hot country. Having
heated some stones, they lay a thick cloth over them, covered
with a quantity of a small plant of the mustard kind; and
over them is spread another cloth. On this they seat them-
selves, and sweat profusely to obtain a cure. This method
has been practised by the men, though ineffectually, for the
cure of the venereal lues. It is remarkable, that they have no
emetic medicines here.
A famine frequently happens in this island, notwithstand-
ing its extreme fertility, in which many people are said to
perish. Whether this calamity be owing to the scanty pro-
duce of some seasons, to over-population, or to wars, I have
not been sufficiently informed; but it has taught them to ex-
ercise the strictest economy, even in the times of plenty.
In a scarcity of provision, when their yams and bread-fruit
are consumed, they have recourse to various roots which
grow uncultivated upon the mountains. The patarra, which
is found in great plenty, is first used: it somewhat resembles
a large potatoe, or yam; and, when in its growing state, is
good, but becomes hard and stringy when old. They next
eat two other roots, one of which appears like taro; and then
the ehoee. Of this there are two sorts; one of which
ses deleterious qualities, which requires it to be sliced, and
macerated in water, a night before it is baked for eating. It
a
posses-

280
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
resembles, in this respect, the cassava root of the West-In-
dies; but, in the manner they dress it, has a very insipid taste.
This and the patarra are creeping plants, the latter having
ternate leaves.
A very small portion of animal food is enjoyed by the low-
er class of people, and if at any time they obtain any, it is
either fish, sea-eggs, or other marine productions; for pork
hardly ever falls to their share. Only the Eree de hoi, is
able to afford pork every day; and the inferior chiefs, accord-
ing to their riches, perhaps once a week, a fortnight, or a
month. Sometimes, indeed, they are not allowed that; for,
when the island is impoverished by war, or any other means,
,
a prohibition is granted against the killing of hogs, which
sometimes continues in force for several months, and even
for a year or two. In such an interval, the hogs have mul-
tiplied so fast, that there have been instances of their chang-
ing their domestic state, and becoming wild.
When this prohibition is taken off, the chiefs assemble at
the king's habitation, each bringing with him a present of
hogs. After this, the king orders some of them to be killed,
of which they all partake, and each returns to his own home,
with full permission to kill as many as he pleases for his own
On our arrival here, such a prohibition was actually in
force, at least in those districts under the immediate direc-
tion of Otoo. And, when we quitted Oheitepeha, fearing we
should not have gone to Matavai, he sent a messenger assur-
ing us, that, as soon as the ships arrived there, it should be
taken off. We found it so, but our consumption of them was
so great, that there is very little doubt but it would be laid
on again, immediately after we had sailed. A prohibition is
sometimes extended to fowls.
The ava is chiefly used among the better sort of people, but
this beverage is differently prepared, from that which we saw
in the Friendly islands. Here they pour a small quantity of
water upon the root, and often bake, roast, or bruise the
stalks, without chewing it before it is infused. They also
bruise the leaves of the plant here, and pour water upon them,
as upon the root. It is not drunk in large companies, in that
sociable way which is practised among the people at Tonga-
taboo; but it has more pernicious effects here, owing, perhaps,
to the manner of its preparation; as we saw frequent instan-
ces of its intoxicating powers.
Many of us, who had visited these islands before, were
surprised to find several of the natives, who were remarkable
for their size and corpulency, when we saw them last, now
use.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
281
almost reduced to skeletons; and the cause of this alteration
was universally attributed to the use of the ava. Their skins
were dry, rough, and covered with scales; which, they say,
occasionally fall off, and their skin becomes, in some degree,
renewed. As an excuse for so destructive a practice, they
allege, it is to prevent their growing too corpulent; but it
enervates them exceedingly, and probably shortens the dura-
tion of their lives.
Their meals at Otaheite are very frequent. The first is
about two o'clock in the morning, after which they go to sleep,
the next is at eight; they dine at eleven, and again, as Omai
expressed it, at two, and at five; and they go to supper at eight.
They have adopted some very whimsical customs, in this ar-
ticle of domestic life. The women are not only obliged to
eat by themselves, but are even excluded from partaking of
most of the better sorts of food. Turtle, or fish of the tunny
kind, they dare nor touch, though it is high in esteem; some
particular sorts of the best plaintains, are also forbidden them;
and even those of the first rank are seldom permitted to eat
pork. The children, of both sexes, also eat apart; and the
women usually serve up their own provisions.
In this, and many other customs, relative to their eating,
there is something exceedingly mysterious. On our inquir-
ing into the reasons of it, we were told, it was necessary that
it should be so; and it was the only answer we could receive,
when we interrogated them upon the subject.
They are not so obscure and mysterious in their other cus-
toms respecting the females, especially with regard to their
connexions with the men. When a young man and woman,
from mutual choice, agree to cohabit, the man makes a present
to the father of the girl, of the common necessaries of life, as
hogs, cloth,or canoes; and if he supposes he has not received a
valuable consideration for his daughter, he compels her to leave
her former friend, and to cohabit with a person who may be more
liberal. The man, indeed, is always at full liberty to make a
new choice; or should his consort become a mother, he may
destroy the child; and afterwards either leave the woman, or
continue his connexion with her. But, if he adopts the child,
and permits it to live, the man and woman are then consi-
dered as in the married state; and after that they seldom
separate. A man may, however, without being censured,
join a more youthful partner to his first wife, and live with
both of them.
The custom of changing their conjugal connexions is very
general, and is so common an occurrence, that they mention
VOL. I.
Nn

282
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
it with indifference. The erreoes, or those of the better sort,
who possess the means of purchasing a succession of fresh
connexions, are generally roaming about; and having no
particular attachment, seldom adopt the plan of a settled
cohabitation. And this licentious plan of life is so agreeable
to their disposition, that the most beautiful of both sexes
exhaust their youthful days in practices which would dis-
grace
the most savage tribes.
tribes. These enormities are peculi-
arly shocking in a country, whose general character has, in
other respects, evident traces of the prevalence of humane
feelings. When an erreoe woman brings forth a child, it is
suffocated by applying a cloth to its mouth and nose, which
has been previously dipped in water.
As the women, in such a life, must contribute greatly to
its happiness, it is surprising that they should not only suffer
the most humiliating restraints, with regard to food, but
should be often treated with a degree of brutality, which one
would suppose a man must be incapable of, towards an ob-
ject for whom he had the least affection or esteem. It is,
however, extremely common to see the men beat them most
unmercifully; and unless this behaviour proceeds from jeal-
ousy, which both sexes sometimes pretend to be infected
with, it will be difficult to assign a reason for it. This may the
more readily be admitted as a motive, as I have known many in-
stances, where interest has been rejected for personal beauty;
though even in these cases, they are not susceptible of those
delicate sentiments that result from mutual affection.
Pla-
tonic love is hardly known in Otaheite.
From a notion of cleanliness, the cutting of the foreskin is
a practice adopted among them; and they bestow a reproach-
ful epithet upon those who neglect that operation. When
five or six lads in a neighbourhood are pretty well grown up,
it is made known to a tahoua, by the father of one of them,
The tahoua, attended by a servant, conducts the lads to the
top of the hills; and after seating one of them in a proper
manner, places a piece of wood beneath the foreskin; at the
same time amusing him, by desiring him to look aside at
something which he pretends to see. The
young man's at-
tention being thus engaged, he immediately cuts through the
skin with a shark's tooth, and separates the divided parts;
then, after putting on a bandage, he performs the same ope-
ration on the other lads who attend him.
Five days after they have been thus disciplined, they bathe,
the bandages are removed, and the matter is cleansed away.
When five days more are expired, they bathe again, and are

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
283
recovered; but, as a thickness of the prepuce remains, occa-
sioned by the cutting, they again ascend the mountains with
the tahoua and servant, where a fire is prepared, and some
stones heated; between two of which the prepuce is placed
by the tahoua, and is gently squeezed, in order to remove the
thickness. This done, they return home, adorned with odori-
ferous flowers; and the tahoua is rewarded by the fathers of
the lads, according to their several abilities, with a present
of hogs and cloth; and if their poverty will not permit them
to make a proper acknowledgment, their relations on this
occasion, are expected to be liberal.
Their religious system abounds in singularities, and few
of the common people have a competent knowledge of it, that
being principally confined to their priests, which, indeed, are
numerous. They pay no particular respect to one god, as
possessing pre-eminence; but believe in a plurality of divini-
ties, who have each a plenitude of power.
As different parts of the island, and the other neighbour-
ing islands, have different gods, the respective inhabitants
imagine they have chosen the most eminent, or one who is,
at least, sufficiently powerful to protect them, and to supply
their necessities. If he should not give them satisfaction,
they think it no impiety to change. An instance of this kind
has lately happened in Tiaraboo, where two divinities have
been discarded, and Oraa, god of Bolabola, has been adopted
in their room. They have probably been induced to make
this new choice, because his people have been victorious in
war; and, having, since their new election, been successful
against the inhabitants of Otaheite-nooe, it is solely in puted
to Oraa, who literally fights their battles.
In serving their gods, their assiduity is remarkably conspi-
cuous. The whattus, or offering-places of the morais in
general, loaded with fruits and animals, and almost every
house has a portion of it set apart for a similar purpose. Ma-
ny of them are so rigidly scrupulous in their religious mat-
ters, that they will not even begin a meal, till they have laid
aside a morsel for the eatooa; and we have seen their super-
stitious zeal carried to a most pernicious height in their hu-
man sacrifices, which are, I fear, too frequent. They proba-
bly have recourse to them to avert misfortunes. Their pray-
ers, which they always chant like the songs in their festive
,
entertainments, are also very frequent.
As in other cases so in religion, the women are obliged to
show their inferiority. When they pass the morais, they
must partly uncover themselves, or take an extensive circuit
are,

284
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
to avoid them. Though they do not entertain an opinion,
that their god must be continually conferring benefits, with-
out sometimes forsaking them; they are less concerned at
this, than at the attempts of some inauspicious being to in-
jure them. Etee, they say, is an evil spirit, who delights in
mischief; and to whom they make offerings, as well as to
their divinity. But all the mischiefs they apprehend from
invisible beings, are merely temporal.
As to the soul, they believe it to be both immortal and im-
material; that, during the pangs of death, it keeps fluttering
about the lips; and that it ascends and is eaten by the deity:
that it continues in this state for some time; after which it
takes its passage to a certain place, destined to receive the souls
of men, and has existence in eternal night; or rather in a kind
of dawn, or twilight.
They expect no permanent punishment hereafter, for crimes
committed upon earth; the souls of good and bad men being
indiscriminately eaten by the deity. But they consider this
coalition as a kind of necessary purification before they enter
the regions of bliss; for their doctrine inculcates, that those
who refrain from all sensual connexion with women some
months before they depart this life, pass into their eternal
mansion, without such a previous union, as if, by such an
abstinence, they were sufficiently pure to be exempted from
the general lot.
They have not indeed those sublime conceptions of happi-
ness, which our religion, and, indeed, our reason, teach us to
expect hereafter. Immortality is the only great privilege they
think they shall acquire by death; for they suppose that spirits
are not entirely divested of those passions, by which they
were actuated when combined with material vehicles. Thus,
at a meeting of souls which were formerly enemies, many
conflicts may ensue, which must certainly be ineffectual, as
those who are in this invisible state must be invulnerable.
Their reasoning is similar with regard to the meeting of a
man and his consort. If the husband departs this life first,
the soul of his wife is no stranger to him, on its arrival in
the land of spirits. They renew their former intimacy, in a
capacious building, called Tourooa, where departed souls as-
semble to recreate themselves with the gods. The husband
then conducts her to his separate habitation, where they eter-
nally reside, and have an offspring, which, however is purely
spiritual, as their embraces are supposed to be far different
from those of corporeal beings.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
285
Many of their notions respecting the Deity, are extrava-
gantly absurd. They suppose him to be under the influence
of those spirits, who derive their existence from him; and that
they frequently eat him, though he has power to recreate
himself. They cannot converse about immaterial things,
without referring to material objects to convey their meaning,
and therefore perhaps, they use this mode of expression.
They further add, that, in the tourooa, the deity inquires
whether they mean to destroy him, or not; and their deter-
mination is unalterable. This is not only known to the spirits,
but also to the inhabitants of the earth; for, when the moon
is on its wane, they are supposed to be devouring the eatooa;
and in the proportion that it increases, he is renewing himself:
and the superior, as well as the inferior gods, are liable to
this accident.
Other places, they also believe, are prepared for the recep-
tion of departed souls. Thus they are of opinion, that those
who are drowned in the sea continue there, and enjoy a de-
lightful country, sumptuous habitations, and every thing that
can contribute to their happiness. They even maintain that all
other animals have souls; and even trees, fruit, and stones;
which at their decease, or upon their being consumed or bro-
ken, ascend to the deity, from whom they pass to their des-
tined mansion.
They imagine, that every temporal blessing is derived from
their punctual performance of religious offices. They believe
that the powerful influence of the divine spirit is universally
diffused, and therefore it cannot be a matter of surprise that
they adopt many superstitious opinions concerning its ope-
rations. Sudden deaths, and all other accidents, they suppose
to be effected under the immediate impulse of some divinity.
If a man receives a wound in his toe, by stumbling against
a stone, it is imputed to an eatooa.
In the night, on approaching a toopapaoo, where dead bo-
dies are exposed, they are startled and terrified; as many of
our ignorant and superstitious people are at the sight of a
churchyard, or with the apprehensions of ghosts. They have
implicit confidence in dreams, supposing them to be commu-
nications from their deity, or from the spirits of their friends
who have departed this life, and that those who are favoured
with them can foretel future events: but this kind of know-
ledge is limited to particular persons. Omai pretended to
have these communications. He assured us, that, on the 26th
of July, 1776, his father's soul had intimated to him in a
dream, that he should land somewhere in three days; but he

286
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
was unfortunate in his first prophetic attempt, for we did not
get into Teneriffe till the first of August.
Their dreamers, however, are thought little inferior to
their inspired priests and priestesses, whose predictions are
universally credited; and all undertakings of consequence are
determined by them. Opoony has a particular esteem for
the priestess who persuaded him to invade Ulietea, and always
consults her previous to his going to war. Our old doctrine
of planetary influence, they, in some degree, adopt; and are
sometimes regulated in their public counsels, by the appear-
ances of the moon. If, on its first appearance after the change,
it lies horizontally, they are encouraged to engage in war,
and seem confident of success.
They have strange obscure traditions concerning the crea-
tion. Some goddess, they say, had a lump of earth suspend-
ed in a cord, and, by giving it a swing round, scattered about
several pieces of land, which constituted Otaheite and the
adjacent islands; and that they were all peopled by one of
each sex, who originally fixed at Otaheite; but this only re-
spects their own immediate creation; for they admit of an
universal one before this. Their remotest account extends
to Tatooma and Tapuppa, who are male and female rocks,
and support our globe. These begat Totorro, who was kill-
ed and divided into parts or parcels of land: then Otaia and
Oroo were produced, who were afterwards married, and first
begat land, and then a race of gods. Otaia being killed,
Oroo marries her son, a god, named Teorraha, whom she
orders to create animals, more land, and every kind of food
found upon the earth. She also ordered him to create a sky,
which is supported by men, called Teeferei. The spots ob-
servable in the moon, they say, are groves of a certain tree
a
which once grew in Otaheite, and being accidentally destroy-
ed, some doves carried its seeds thither, where they flourish
at this day.
They have many religious and historical legends; one of
which, relative to eating human flesh, is, in substance, as fol-
lows: A very long time ago, there lived at Otaheite, two
men who were called Taheeai; a name which is now given
to cannibals. They inhabited the mountains, whence they
issued forth, and murdered the natives, whom they afterwards
devoured, and thus prevented the progress of population.
Two brothers, anxious to rid the country of such enemies,
successfully put in practice a stratagem for their destruction.
They lived farther upward than the Taheeai, and were so si-
tuated, that they could converse with them without hazard-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
287
ing their own safety. They invited them to partake of an
entertainment, to which they readily consented. The bro-
thers then heated some stones in a fire, and thrusting them
into pieces of mahee, requested one of the Taheeai to open his
mouth; when one of those pieces was immediately dropped
in, and some water poured after it, which, in quenching the
stone, made a hissing noise and killed him. The other was
entreated to do the same, but, at first declined it, mentioning
the consequences of his companion's eating: but, upon being
assured that the food was excellent, that these effects were
only temporary, and that his companion would soon recover,
he was so credulous as to swallow the bait, and was also
killed.
Their bodies were then cut to pieces, and buried by the
natives, who rewarded the brothers with the government of
the island, for delivering them from such monsters. They
resided at Whapaeenoo, a district in the island, where there
now remains a bread-fruit tree, which was once the property
of the Taheeais. They had a woman who lived with them,
that had two enormous teeth. After they were killed, she
lived at Otaha; and, when she died, she was ranked among
their deities. She did not, like the men, feed upon human
,
flesh, but, from the prodigious size of her teeth, the natives
still call any animal that has large tusks, Taheeai.
This story, it must be acknowledged, is as natural as that
of Hercules destroying the hydra, or of Jack the Giant-kill-
But it does not appear that there is any moral couched
under it, any more than under most of the old fables, which
have been received as truths in ignorant ages. It, however,
was not injudiciously introduced, as serving to express the
detestation entertained here against cannibals. And yet, it
appears probable, from some circumstances, that the natives
of these isles formerly fed upon human flesh. Upon asking
Omai a few questions upon this subject, he resolutely denied
it; though, at the same time, he related a fact within his own
knowledge, which almost establishes such a conjecture.
When the Bolabola men defeated those of Huaheine, many
of his kinsmen were slain: but a relation of his had an oppor-
tunity of being revenged, when the people of Bolabola were
worsted in their turn; and, cutting a piece of flesh from the
thigh of one of his enemies, he broiled and devoured it. The
offering made to the chief, of the eye of the person sacrificed,
appears to be a vestige of a custom that once existed to a
greater extent.
er.
a
a

288
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
The principal characteristics of the sovereign, are the be-
ing invested with the maro, the presiding at human sacrifices,
and the blowing of the conch-shell. On hearing the latter,
every subject is obliged to bring food, in proportion to his
circumstances, to his royal residence. Their veneration for
his name, on some occasions, they carry to a most extrava-
gant height. When he accedes to the maro, if
any
words in
the language are found to have a resemblance to it in sound,
they are immediately changed for others; and, if any man
should be presumptuous enough to continue the use of those
words, not only he, but his whole family, are put to death.
A similar fate attends all those who shall dare to apply the
sacred name of the sovereign to any animal. Whence Omai,
when in England, expressed his indignation, that the names
of prince or princess should be given to our dogs or horses.
But though death is the punishment for taking this liberty
with the name of the sovereign, abuse against his govern-
ment is only punished with the forfeiture of lands and houses,
The sovereign never deigns to enter the habitation of
any of his subjects; in every district, where he visits, he
has houses belonging to himself. And if, by accident, he
should ever be obliged to deviate from this rule, the habita-
tion thus honoured with his presence, together with its fur-
niture, is entirely burnt. When present, his subjects uncover
to him as low as the waist; and when he is at any particular
place, a pole, with a piece of cloth affixed to it, is set up
some conspicuous part near, on which the same honours are
bestowed. To the first part of this ceremony his brothers
are entitled; but the women only uncover to the royal fe-
males.
They are even superstitious in respect to their sovereign,
and esteem his person as almost sacred. To these circum-
stances, perhaps, he is indebted for the quiet possession of
his dominions. Even the people of Tiaraboo admit his claim
to the same honours, though they esteem their own chief as
more powerful, and assert that, should the reigning family
become extinct, he would succeed to the government of the
whole island.
This indeed is probable, as Waheiadooa, exclusive of Tiara-
boo, possesses many districts of Opooreanoo. The extent of
his territories is, therefore, almost equal to those of Otoo;
and his part of the island is more populous and fertile. His
subjects too, have shown their superiority, by frequently de-
feating those of Otaheite-nooe, whom they hold in a con-
temptible light, as warriors: and over whom they might be
in

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
289
easily victorious, if their chief should be inclined to put it to
the test.
The people, exclusive of the Eree de hoi, and his family,
are classed in the following order. The Erees, or powerful
chiefs; the Manohoone, or vassals; and the Teou, or Toutou,
servants or slaves. The men, agreeable to the regular institu.
tion, connect themselves with women of their respective
ranks; but if with one of an inferior class, and she brings forth
a child, it is not only preserved, but is entitled to the rank of
the father; unless he should happen to be an Eree, in which
case the child is killed.
If a woman of condition permits a man of inferior rank to
officiate as a husband, the children they produce are also
killed. And if a Teou be detected in an intrigue with a fe-
male of the royal family, he is punished with death. The
son of the Eree de hoi, at his birth, succeeds his father in ti-
tles and honours; but, if he has no children, the government
devolves to the brother at his death. Possessions, in other
families, descend to the eldest son, who is, nevertheless,
obliged to support his brothers and sisters, and allow them
houses on his estates.
Otaheite is divided into several districts, the boundaries
of which are generally rivulets or low hills; but the subdivi-
sions, by which particular property is ascertained, are point-
ed out by large stones which have continued from generation
to generation. Quarrels are sometimes produced, by the re
moval of these stones, which are decided by battle; each par-
ty claiming the assistance of his friends. But, upon a com-
,
plaint being properly made to the Eree de hoi, he determines
the difference in an amicable manner.
These offences, however, are not common; and property
seems to be as secure here, from long custom, as from the
severest laws in other countries. It is an established
prac.
tice among them, that crimes which are not of a general na-
ture, are left to be punished by the party who is injured, sup-
posing that he will decide as equitably as a person totally un-
concerned: and, long custom having allotted certain punish-
ments for certain crimes, he may inflict them, without being
amenable to any one. If, for instance, any person be detect-
ed stealing, which is usually done in the night, the owner of
the goods stolen may kill the thief immediately. But they
seldom inflict so severe a punishment, unless the property tak-
en is very valuable; such as plaited hair and breast-plates.
When only cloth, or hogs are stolen, and the robber escapes,
if, upon his being afterwards discovered, he engages to re-
VOL. I.
оо

290
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
turn the same number of hogs, and pieces of cloth, he is ac-
quitted of the offence; or, at most, receives a slight beating.
If, in a quarrel, one person should kill another, the friends
of the deceased attack the survivor and his adherents. If
they are victorious, they take possession of the house and
property of the other party; but, if they are vanquished, the
reverse takes place. Should a Manahoone kill the slave of
a chief, the latter seizes the property of the former, who
flies the country. A few months after, he returns, and find-
ing his stock of hogs increased, makes a large present of these,
and other valuable articles, to the Toutou's master, who ge-
nerally considers it as a compensation, and suffers him to re-
possess his premises. But it is not surprising that the kill-
ing of a man should be considered as so trifling an offence,
among a people who do not think it a crime to murder their
own children. On conversing with them concerning such in-
stances of unnatural cruelty, and asking them if their chiefs
were not offended, and did not punish them; they said the
chief had no right to interfere in such cases, every one be-
ing at liberty to do what he pleased with his own child.
Though the people, their customs and manners, and the
productions of the islands in the neighbourhood, may, in ge-
neral, be considered the same as at Otaheite, yet there are a
few differences. In the little island Mataia, or Osnaburgh
island, which lies twenty leagues east of Otaheite, is spoken
a different dialect from that of Otaheite. The men of Ma-
taia also wear long hair; and previous to their fighting,
cover their arm with something beset with shark's teeth, and
their bodies with a skin of fishes, not unlike shagreen. They
are likewise ornamented with polished pearl shells, which
make a refulgent glittering in the sun; and they have a very
large one before, which covers them like a shield.
In the language of Otaheite, there are many words and
phrases very different from those of the islands to the west-
ward of it. It is remarkable for producing, in great abun-
dance, that delicious fruit which we call apples, which are
not to be found in any of the others, except Eimeo. It also
produces an odoriferous wood called eahoi, which is much
esteemed at the other isles. Huaheine and Eimeo produce
more yams than the other islands; and upon the hills at Mou-
rooa, a particular bird is found, which is highly valued for
its white feathers.
Besides the number or cluster of islands, extending from
Mataia to Mourooa, we were informed by the people at
Otaheite, that there was a low uninhabited island, called
a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 291
Mopeeha; and also several low islands, to the northeastward,
at the distance of about two days sail with a fair wind.
At Mataeeva, it is said to be customary, for men to pre-
sent their daughters to strangers who visit that island. The
pairs, however, must lie near each other for the space of five
nights, without presuming to take any liberties. On the sixth
evening, the father entertains his guest with food, and orders
the daughter to receive him, that night, as her husband.
Though the bed-fellow be ever so disagreeable to the stran-
ger, he must not dare to express the least dislike; for that is
an unpardonable affront, and punishable with death. Forty
men of Bolabola, whom curiosity had incited to go to Mata-
eeva, were treated in this manner; one of them having declar-
ed his aversion to the female who fell to his lot, in the hear-
ing of a boy, who mentioned it to the father. Fired with
this information, the Mataeevans fell upon them; but the Bo-
labolans killed thrice their own number, though with the loss of
the whole party except five. These, at first, hid themselves
in the woods, and afterwards effected their escape in a canoe.
The low isles are, perhaps, the farthest navigation perform-
ed by the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society islands.
Monsieur de Bougainville is certainly in an error, when he
says, 'These people sometimes navigate at the distance of
more than three hundred leagues.'* For it is deemed a sort
of prodigy, that a canoe, which was once driven from Ota-
heite in a storm, should have arrived at Mopeeha, though
directly to leeward, at no great distance. Their knowledge
of distant islands is merely traditional; communicated to
them by the natives of those islands who have been acciden-
tally driven upon their coasts.
.
Upon our quitting Bolabola, and taking leave of the So-
ciety islands, on Monday the 8th of December, we steered
to the northward, with the wind between northeast and east;
scarce ever having it in the southeast point, till after we had
crossed the equator. Though a year and five months had
now elapsed since our departure from England, during which
period we had not been, upon the whole, unprofitably em-
ployed. Captain Cook was sensible, that, with respect to
the principal object of his instructions, our voyage might be
considered, at this time, as only at its commencement; and,
therefore, his attention to whatever might contribute towards
our safety and final success, was now to be exerted as it
were anew.
He had with this view examined into the state
of our provisions at the islands we had last visited; and ha-
Bougainville's Voyage Autour du Monde, p. 228.

292 A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC SCEÁN.
ving now, on leaving them, proceeded beyond the extent of
his former discoveries, he ordered an accurate survey to be
taken of all the stores that were in each ship, that, by being
fully informed of the quantity and condition of every ar-
ticle, he might know how to use them to the greatest advan-
tage.
Before we quitted the Society isles, we had taken every
opportunity of inquiring of the natives, whether there were
any islands situate in a northerly or northwesterly direction
from them; but it did not appear that they knew of any: nor
did we meet with any thing by which the vicinity of land
was indicated, till we began, about the latitude of 80 south,
to see boobies, men-of-war birds, terns, tropic-birds, and a
few other sorts. Our longitude, at this time, was 2052 east.
In the night between the 22d and 23d, we crossed the
equinoctial line; and on the 24th, soon after day break, we
discovered land bearing northeast by east. It was found,
upon our making a nearer approach to it, to be one of those
low islands which are so frequently met with in this ocean
between the tropics; that is, a narrow bank of land that en-
closes the sea within. We observed some cocoa nut-trees in
two or three places; but the land in general had a very steril
aspect. At twelve o'clock it was about four miles distant.
On the western side we found the depth of water to be from
forty to fourteen fathoms, over a sandy bottom.
Captain Cook being of opinion that this island would prove
a convenient place for procuring turtle, resolved to anchor
here. We accordingly dropped our anchors in thirty fa-
thoms water; and a boat was immediately despatched to
search for a commodious landing place. When she returned,
the officer who had been employed in this search, reported,
that he found no place where a boat could land: but that fish
greatly abounded in the shoal-water, without the breakers.
Early the next morning which was Christmas-day, two boats
were sent, one from each ship, to examine more accurately
whether it was practicable to land; and, at the same time,
two others were ordered out, to fish at a grappling near the
shore. These last returned about eight, with as many fish
as weighed upwards of two hundred pounds. Encouraged
by this success the commodore despatched them again after
breakfast; and he then went himself in another boat, to view
the coast, and attempt landing, which, however, he found to
be impracticable. The two boats which had been sent out
on the same search, returned about twelve o'clock; and the
master, who was in that belonging to the Resolution, re-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
293
ported to captain Cook, that, about four or five miles to the
northward, there being a break in the land, and a channel
into the lagoon, there was consequently a proper place for
landing; and that he had found off this entrance the same
soundings as we had where we were now stationed. In con-
sequence of this report we weighed, and, after two or three
trips, anchored again over a bottom of fine dark sand, before
a a little island lying at the entrance of the lagoon.
On Friday the 26th, in the morning, the commodore or-
dered captain Clerke to send out a boat, with an officer in it,
to the southeast part of the lagoon in quest of turtle; and
went himself with Mr. King, each in a boat, to the north-
east part. It was his intention to have gone to the eastern
extremity; but the wind not permitting it, he and Mr. King
landed more to leeward, on a sandy flat, where they caught
one turtle, which was the only one they saw in the lagoon.
They waded through the water to an island, where they
found nothing but a few birds. Captain Cook, leaving Mr.
King here to observe the sun's meridian altitude, proceeded
to the land that bounds the sea towards the northwest, which
he found even more barren than the last mentioned isle; but
walking over to the sea-coast, he observed five turtles close
to the shore, one of which he caught: he then returned on
board, as did Mr.King soon afterwards. Though so few
turtles were observed by these two gentlemen, we did not
despair of a supply; for some of the officers of the Discovery,
who had been ashore to the southward of the channel lead-
ing into the lagoon, had had more success, and caught se-
veral.
The next morning, the cutter and pinnace were despatch-
ed, under the command of Mr. King, to the southeast part
of the island, within the lagoon, to catch turtles ; and the
small cutter was sent towards the north for the same pur-
pose. Some of captain Clerke's people having been on shore
all night, had been so fortunate as to turn upwards of forty
turtles on the sand, which were this day brought on board;
and, in the course of the afternoon, the party detached to the
northward returned with half a dozen; and being sent back
again, continued there till we departed from the island, hav-
ing, upon the whole, pretty good success. The day follow-
ing (the 28th) captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. Bailey,
landed on the island situate between the two channels into
the lagoon, to prepare the telescopes for observing the solar
eclipse that was to happen on the 30th. Towards noon, Mr.
King returned with one boat, and eight turtles; seven being
3

294 A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
left behind to be brought by the other boat, whose people
were occupied in catching more; and, in the evening, the
same boat conveyed them provisions and water. Mr. Wil-
liamson now went to superintend that business in the room of
Mr. King, who remained on board, in order to attend the ob-
servation of the eclipse. The next day, the two boats, laden
with turtle, were sent back to the ship by Mr. Williamson,
who, at the same time, in a message to captain Cook, request-
ed, that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had
discovered a landing-place on the southeast side of the is-
land, where the greatest numbers of turtle were caught; so
that, by despatching the boats thither, the trouble of carrying
them over the land (as had hitherto been done) to the inside
of the lagoon, would be saved. This advice was followed.
On Tuesday the 30th, captain Cook, and Messrs. King
and Bailey, repaired in the morning to the small island above
mentioned, to observe the eclipse of the sun. The sky was
overcast at times; but it was clear when the eclipse ended.
In the afternoon, the party who had been employed in catch-
ing turtle at the southeastern part of the island, returned on
board, except a sailor belonging to captain Clerke's ship, who
had been missing for two days. At first, there were twomen
who had lost their way; but happening to disagree with res-
pect to the track that was most likely to bring them to their
companions, they had separated; and one of them found
means to rejoin the party, after an absence of twenty-four
hours, during which he had experienced great distress.
There being no fresh water in the whole island, and not one
cocoa-nut tree in that part of it, he, in order to allay his thirst,
had recourse to the extraordinary expedient of drinking the
blood of turtles, which he killed for that purpose. His me-
thod of refreshing himself, when fatigued, was equally sin-
gular, though he said he felt the good effects of it: he un-
dressed himself, and lay down in the shallow water on the
beach for some time.
How these two men had contrived to lose their way, was
a matter of astonishment. The land over which their jour-
ney lay, from the sea-coast to the lagoon, where the boats
were stationed, did not exceed three miles across; nor was
there any thing that could impede their view; for the coun-
try was level, with a few shrubs dispersed about it; and, from
many parts, the masts of our vessels could be easily dis-
cerned. This, however, was a rule of direction which they
did not think of; nor did they recollect in what part of the
island the ships lay at anchor; and they were totally at a loss
how to get back to them, or to the party they had so care-
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. .
295
lessly straggled from. Considering what strange people the
generality of the sailors are, while on shore, we might, instead
of being much surprised that these two should thus lose them-
selves, rather wonder that no more of the party were mis-
sing
Captain Clerke was no sooner informed that one of the
stragglers was still in this disagreeable situation, than he de-
tached a party in search of him; but neither the man nor the
party having returned, the next morning the commodore or-
dered two boats into the lagoon, to prosecute the search by
different tracks. In a short time after, captain Clerke's de-
tachment returned, with their lost companion; in consequence
of which the boats despatched into the lagoon were called
back by signal. This man's distress must have been far
greater than that of the other straggler's, not only as he had
been lost longer time, but as he was too delicate to drink tur-
tle's blood.
Having some yams and cocoa-nuts on board, in a state of
vegetation, we planted them, by captain Cook's order, on the
small island where he had observed the late eclipse; and some
seeds of melons were sown in another place. The captain
also left on that little isle a bottle, containing the following
inscription:
Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777.
Naves
Resolution, Fac. Cook, Pr.
Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.
On Thursday the 1st of January, 1778, the commodore
sent out several boats to bring on board our different parties
employed ashore, with the turtle which they had caught. It
being late before this business was completed, he thought
proper to defer sailing till the next morning. We procured
at this island, for both ships, about three hundred turtles,
which weighed, one with another, about ninety pounds: they
were all of the green sort, and, perhaps, not inferior in good-
ness to any in the world. We also caught, with hook and
line, a great quantity of fish, principally consisting of caval-
lies, snappers, and a few rock-fish of two species, one with
whitish streaks scattered about, and the other with numerous
blue spots.
The soil of this island (to which captain Cook gave the
name of Christmas island, as we kept that festival here) is,
in some places, light and blackish, composed of sand, the dung
of birds, and rotten vegetables. In other parts, it is formed
of broken coral-stones, decayed shells, and other marine pro-

296
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ductions. These are deposited in long, narrow ridges, lying:
parallel with the sea-coast; and must have been thrown up by
the waves, though they do not reach, at present, within a mile
of some of these places. This seems to prove incontestibly,
that the island has been produced by different accessions from
the
sea, and is in a state of augmentation; the broken pieces
of coral, and likewise many of the shells being too large and
heavy to have been brought from the beach by any birds to
the places where they are now lying. We could not find any
where a drop of fresh water, though we frequently dug for
it. We met with several ponds of salt water, which, as they
had no visible communication with the sea, were probably
filled by the water filtrating through the sand during the time
of high tides. One of the men who lost their way found
some salt on the southeastern part of the island. We could
not discover the smallest traces of any human creature hav-
ing ever been here before us; and, indeed, should any one be
accidently driven on the island, or left there, he would hard-
ly be able to prolong his existence. For, though there are
birds and fish in abundance, there are no visible means of al-
laying thirst, nor any vegetable that would serve as a substi-
tute for bread, or correct the bad effects of an animal diet.
On the few cocoa-nut trees upon the island, we found very
little fruit, and that little not good,
A few low trees were observed in some parts, besides se-
veral small shrubs and plants, which grew in a very languid
manner. We found a sort of purslain, a species of Fida or
Indian mallow, and another plant that seemed, from its leaves,
to be a mesembryanthemum; with two sorts of
grass.
Under
the low trees sat vast numbers of a new species of tern, or
egg-bird, black above, and white below, having a white arch
on the forehead. These birds are somewhat larger than the
common noddy; their eggs are bluish, and speckled with
black. There were likewise many common boobies; a sort
greatly resembling a gannet; and a chocolate-coloured spe-
cies, with a white belly. Men-of-war birds, curlews, plovers,
tropic-birds, petrels, &c. are also to be seen here.
several rats, smaller than ours. There were numbers of land-
crabs, and small lizards.
Christmas island is supposed by captain Cook to be be-
tween fifteen and twenty leagues in circuit. Its form is se-
mi-circular; or like the moon in her last quarter, the two
horns being the north and south points. The west side, or
the small island situate at the entrance into the lagoon, lies
in the longitude of 202° 30' east, and in the latitude of 12 59
nroth.
We saw

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
297
a
Like most of the other isles in this ocean, Christmas island
is surrounded by a reef of coral rock, extending but a little
way from the shore; and further out than this reef, on the
western side, is a bank of sand, which extends a mile into the
sea. There is good anchorage on this bank, in any depth be-
tween eighteen and thirty fathoms. During our continuance
here, the wind generally blew a fresh gale at east by south, or
east; and we had constantly a great swell from the northward,
which broke on the reef in a very violent surf.
Weighing anchor at day-break, on Friday the 2d of Janu-
ary, 1778, we resumed our northerly course, with a gentle
breeze at east and east-southeast, which continued till we ar-
rived in the latitude of 7° 45' north, and the longitude of
205° east, where we had a day of perfect calm. A north-
east-by-east wind then succeeded, which blew faintly at first,
but freshened as we proceeded northward. We daily ob-
served tropic birds, men-of war birds, boobies, &c, and be-
tween the latitude of 10 and 11° north, we saw several tur-
tles. Though all these are considered as signs of the proxi-
mity of land, we discovered none till early in the morning
of Sunday the 18th, when an island appeared, bearing north-
east by east. Not long after, more land was seen, which
bore north, and was totally detached from the former. At
noon, the first was supposed to be eight or nine leagues dis-
Our longitude, at this time, was 200° 41' east, and our
latitude 21° 12' north. The next day, at sun-rise, the island
first seen bore east, at the distance of several leagues. Not
being able to reach this, we shaped our course for the other;
and soon after observed a third island, bearing west-north-
We had now a fine breeze at east-by-north; and, at noon,
the second island, named Atooi, for the east end of which
we were steering, was about two leagues distant. As we
made a nearer approach, many of the inhabitants put off from
the shore in their canoes, and very readily came alongside
the ships. We were agreeably surprised to find that they
spoke a dialect of the Otaheitean language. They could not
be prevailed upon by any intreaties to come on board. Cap-
tain Cook tied some brass medals to a rope, which he gave
to those who were in one of the canoes; and they, in return,
fastened some mackarel to the rope, by way of equivalent.
This was repeated; and some small nails, or pieces of iron,
were given them; for which they gave in exchange some
more fish, and a sweet potatoe; a sure indication of their hav.
ing some notion of bartering, or, at least, of returning one
tant.
west.
VOL, I.
PP

298
À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
present for another. One of them even offered for sale the
piece of stuff which he wore about his waist. These people
did not exceed the ordinary size, and were stoutly made.
Their complexion was brown; and though there appeared to
be little difference in the casts of their colour, there was a
considerable variation in their features. Most of them had
their hair cropped rather short; a few had it tied in a bunch
at the top of the head; and others suffered it to flow loose.
It seemed to be naturally black; but the generality of them
had it stained with some stuff which communicated to it a
brownish colour. Most of them had pretty long beards.
They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did we ob-
serve that they had their ears perforated. Some of them
were tatooed on the hands, or near the groin; and the pieces
of cloth which were worn by them round their middle, were
curiously coloured with white, black, and red. They seem-
ed to be mild and good-natured; and were furnished with no
arms of any kind, except some small stones, which they had
manifestly brought for their own defence; and these they
threw into the sea when they found that there was no occa-
sion for them.
As we perceived no signs of an anchoring-place at this
eastern extremity of the island, we bore away to leeward, and
ranged along the southeast side, at the distance of about a
mile and a half from the shore. The canoes left us when we
made sail; but others came off, as we proceeded along the
coast, and brought with them pigs and some excellent pota-
toes, which they exchanged for whatever we offered to them;
and several small pigs were purchased by us for a six-penny
nail. We passed divers villages; some of which were si-
tuated near the sea, and others further up the country. The
inhabitants of all of them came in crowds to the shore, and
assembled on the elevated places to take a view of the ships.
On this side of the island the land rises in a gentle acclivity
from the sea to the bottom of the mountains, which occupy
the central part of the country, except at one place near the
eastern end, where they rise immediately from the sea; they
seemed to be composed of stone, or rocks lying in horizon-
tal strata. We observed a few trees about the villages; near
which we could also discern several plantations of sugar-
canes and plantains. We continued to sound, but did not
strike ground with a line of fifty fathoms, till we came abreast
of a low point, near the northwest extremity of the island,
where we found from twelve to fourteen fathoms, over a
rocky bottom. Having passed this point, we met with twenty
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
299
fathoms, then sixteen, twelve, and at last five, over a bottom
of sand. We spent the night in standing off and on; and the
next morning, stood in for the land. We were met by se-
veral canoes filled with natives, some of whom ventured to
come on board.
None of the inhabitants we ever met with before in any
other island or country, were so astonished as these people
were, upon entering a ship. Their eyes were incessantly
roving from one object to another; and the wildness of their
looks and gestures, fully indicated their perfect ignorance
with respect to every thing they saw; and strongly marked
to us, that they had never, till the present time, been visited
,
by Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commo-
dities, except iron. This metal, however, they had in all
probability, only heard of, or had perhaps known it in some
inconsiderable quantity, brought to them at a remote period.
They asked for it by the appellation of hamaite, referring
probably to some instrument, in making which iron could be
serviceably employed; for they applied that name to the blade
of a knife, though they had no idea of that particular instru-
ment, which they could not even handle properly. They al-
so frequently called iron by the name of toe, which signifies
a hatchet, or adze. On our showing them some beads, they
first asked what they were; and then, whether they were to
be eaten. But, on their being informed, that they were to be
hung in their ears, they rejected them as useless. They
were equally indifferent with regard to a looking-glass that
we offered them, and returned it for a similar reason. China
cups, plates of earthen-ware, and other things of that kind
were so new to them, that they asked whether they were
made of wood. They were, in many respects, naturally po-
lite, or, at least, cautious of giving offence. Some of them,
just before their venturing on board, repeated a long prayer;
and others, afterwards sung and made various motions with
their hands. On their first entering the ship, they attempted
to steal every thing that they could lay hands on, or rather to
take it openly, as if they supposed that we either should not
resent such behaviour, or not hinder it. But we soon con-
vinced them of their error; and when they observed that we
kept a watchful eye over them, they became less active in
appropriating to themselves what did not belong to them.
About nine o'clock captain Cook despatched lieutenant
Williamson, with three armed boats, to look out for a proper
landing-place, and for fresh water; with orders, that, if he
should find it necessary to land in search of the latter, he
should not allow more than one man to accompany him out

300
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
canoes.
.
of the boats. The very moment they were putting off from
the ship, one of the islanders having stolen a cleaver, leaped
overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened towards the
shore, while the boats pursued him in vain.
The reason of the commodore's order that the crews of the
boats should not go on shore, was, that he might prevent, if
possible, the importation of a dangerous disease into this is-
land, which he knew some of our people now laboured under,
and which we, unfortunately, had already communicated to
other islands in this ocean. From the same motive he com-
manded that all female visitants should be excluded from both
the ships. Many persons of this sex had come cff in their
Their features, complexion and stature were not ve-
ry different from those of the men; and though their coun-
tenances were extremely open and agreeable, few traces of
delicacy were visible either in their faces, or other proporti-
ons. The only difference in their dress, was their having a
piece of cloth about their bodies, reaching from near the mid-
dle almost down to the knees, instead of the maro worn by
the male sex. They were as much inclined to favour us with
their company on board, as some of the men were; but the
commodore was extremely desirous of preventing all con-
nexion, which might, in all probability, convey an irreparable
injury to themselves, and afterwards, through their means,
to the whole nation. Another prudent precaution was taken
by strictly enjoining, that no person capable of communicat-
ing the infection should be sent upon duty out of the ships.
Captain Cook had paid equal attention to the same object,
when he first visited the Friendly isles; but he afterwards
found, to his great regret, that his endeavours had not suc-
ceeded. And there is reason to apprehend, that this will
constantly be the case, in such voyages as ours, whenever it
is necessary that many people should be employed on shore.
The opportunities and incitements to an amorous intercourse
are then too numerous to be effectually guarded against; and
however confident a commander may be of the health of his
men, he is often undeceived too late. Among a number of
men, there are in general to be found some, who, out of
bashfulness, endeavour to conceal their having any venereal
symptoms: and there are others so profligate and abandoned,
as not to care to whom they communicate this disease. We
had an instance of the last remark at Tongataboo, in the
gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on shore,
After knowing that he had contracted this disorder, he con-
tinued to have connexions with different women, who were


Flate 21.
HO
UNIG
Cliamiபாம்
An Offering before CAPTAIN COOK, in Sandwich Islands


Plat 17
JUT
M
OF
CHO
MINS
UN
A MORAX, in AT001.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
301
supposed to have been, till that time, free from
any infection.
His companions remonstrated to him on this scandalous
behaviour without effect, till captain Clerke, being informed
of such a dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered him to
repair on board.
Waiting for the return of our boats, which had been sent
out to reconnoitre the coast, we stood off and on with the
ships. Towards midday, Mr. Williamson came back, and
reported, that he had observed behind a beach, near one of
the villages, a large pond, which was said by the natives to
contain fresh water; and that there was tolerable anchoring-
ground before it. He also mentioned, that he had made an
attempt to land in another place, but was prevented by the
islanders, who, coming down in great numbers to the boats,
endeavoured to take away the oars, muskets, and every
other article which they could lay hold of; and crowded so
thick upon him and his people, that he was under the neces-
sity of firing, by which one man was killed. This unfortunate
circumstance, however, was not known to captain Cook till af-
ter we had quitted the island; so that all his measures were
directed as if no affair of that kind had happened. Mr. Wil-
liamson informed him, that, as soon as the man fell, he was
taken
up and carried off by his countrymen, who then retir-
ed from the boats; but still they made signals for our people
to land, which they declined. It did not appear, that the
natives had the least intention of killing, or even hurting,
any of Mr. Williamson's party; but they seemed to have been
excited by curiosity alone, to get from them what they had,
being prepared to give, in return, any thing that appertained
to themselves.
Captain Cook then despatched one of the boats to lie in the
best anchoring ground; and when she had gained this station,
he bore down with the ships, and cast anchor in twenty-five
fathoms water, over a sandy bottom. The eastern point of
the road, which was the low point already mentioned, bore
south 51° east; the west point, north 659 west; and the
village near which the fresh water was said to be, was one
mile distant. The ships being thus stationed, between three
and four in the afternoon, the captain went ashore with three
armed boats, and twelve of the marines, with a view of ex-
amining the water, and trying the disposition of the inhabi-
tants, who had assembled in considerable numbers on a sandy
beach before the village; behind it was a valley, in which
was the piece of water. The moment he leaped on shore, all
the islanders fell prostrate upon their faces, and continued in
a

302
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
.
that posture of humiliation, till, by signs, he prevailed on
them to rise. They then presented to him many small pigs,
with plantain-trees, making use of nearly the same ceremo-
nies which we had seen practised, on similar occasions, at
the Society and other isles; and a long oration or prayer
being pronounced by an individual, in which others of the
assembly occasionally joined, captain Cook signified his ac-
ceptance of their proffered friendship, by bestowing on them
in return, such presents as he had brought ashore. This
introductory business being ended, he stationed a guard
upon the beach, and was then conducted by some of the
natives to the water, which he found extremely good, and
so considerable, that it might be denominated a lake. After
this, he returned on board, and issued orders that prepara-
tions should be made for filling our water-casks in the morn-
ing; at which time he went ashore with some of his people,
having a party of marines for a guard.
They had no sooner landed, than a trade was entered into
for potatoes and hogs, which the islanders gave
in exchange
for nails and pieces of iron. Far from giving any obstruction
to our men who were occupied in watering, they even assist-
ed them in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and per-
formed with alacrity whatever was required of them. Captain
Cook leaving the command at this station to Mr. Williamson
who had landed with him, made an excursion into the coun-
try, up the valley, being accompanied by Messrs Anderson
and Webber, and followed by a numerous train of natives,
one of whom, who had been very active in keeping the
others in order, the captain made choice of as a guide. This
man, from time to time, proclaiming the approach of our
gentlemen, every person who met them, fell prostrate on the
ground, and remained in that humble position till they had
passed. This, as we were afterwards informed, is their
method of showing respect to their own great chiefs.
We had observed at every village, as we ranged along
the coast in the ships, one or more elevated white objects
resembling pyramids, or rather obelisks; one of which, sup-
posed by captain Cook to be at least fifty feet in height, was
very conspicuous from our anchoring-station, and seemed to
be at a small distance up this valley. To have a nearer view
of it, was the principal motive of our gentlemen's walk. Their
guide was acquainted with their desire of being conducted
to it: but it happened to be in such a situation, that they
could not get at it, the pool of water separating it from them.
However, as there was another of the same kind about half

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
303
a
a
a mile distant, upon their side of the valley, they set out to
visit that. As soon as they reached it, they perceived that
it was situate in a burying-ground, or morai, which bore a
striking resemblance, in several respects, to those they had
seen at Otaheite and other islands in this ocean. It was an
oblong space, of considerable extent, environed by a stone
wall, four or five feet high. The inclosed space was loosely
paved; and, at one end of it, was placed the obelisk or pyra-
mid, called by the natives henananoo, which was an exact
model of the larger one that we had discerned from our ships.
It was about twenty feet in height, and four feet square to
the base! Its four sides were formed of small poles inter-
woven with twigs and branches, thus composing an indiffer-
ent wicker-work, hollow within from the top to the bottom.
It appeared to be in a ruinous state, and had been originally
covered with a thin grayish cloth. On each side of it were
long pieces of wicker-work, termed hereanee, in a condition
equally ruinous, with two poles inclining towards each other
at one corner, where some plantains were placed on a board
fixed at the height of about half a dozen feet. This was
called by the islanders herairemy; and they said, that the
fruit was an offering to their deity. Before the henananoo
were several pieces of wood, carved into some resemblance
of human figures. There was also a stone near two feet in
height, covered with cloth. Adjoining to this, on the out-
side of the morai, was a small shed, which they denominated
hareepahoo; and before it there was a grave, where the re-
mains of a woman had been deposited.
There was a house or shed, called hemanaa, on the further
side of the area of the morai: it was about forty feet in length,
ten or eleven feet in height, and ten in breadth in the middle,
but narrower at each end; though considerably longer, it was
lower than their common habitations. Opposite the entrance
into this house, stood two images near three feet high, cut
out of one piece of wood, with pedestals: they were said to
be Eatooa no Veheina, or representations of goddesses, and
were not very indifferent either in point of execution or dea
sign. On the head of one of them was a cylindrical cap, not
unlike the head-dress at Otaheite, called tomou; and on that
of the other, a carved helmet, somewhat resembling those of
the ancient warriors; and both of them had pieces of cloth
fastened about the loins, and hanging down a considerable
way. There was also, at the side of each, a piece of carved
wood, with cloth hung on it. Before the pedestals lay a
quantity of fern, which had been placed there at different

304
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
times. In the middle of the house, and before the images
just described, was an oblong space, inclosed by an edging
of stone; and covered with shreds of cloth: this was the
grave
of seven chiefs, and was called heneene.
Our gentlemen had already met with so many instances of
resemblance, between the morai they were now visiting, and
those of the islands they had lately quitted, that they enter-
tained little doubt in their minds, that the similarity existed
also, in the rites here solemnized, and particularly in the
horrid oblation of human victims. Their suspicions were
soon confirmed; for, on one side of the entrance into the
hemanaa, they observed a small square place, and another
still smaller; and on asking what these were, they were in-
formed by their conductor, that in one of them was interred
a man who had been sacrificed; and in the other, a hog,
which had also been offered up to the deity. At no great
distance from these, were three other square inclosed places,
with two pieces of carved wood at each of them, and a heap
of fern upon them. These were the graves of three chiefs,
and before them was an inclosed space, of an oblong figure,
called Tangata-taboo by our gentlemen's guide, who declar-
ed to them, that three human sacrifices, one at the funeral of
each chief, had been there buried.
Every appearance induced the commodore to believe, that
this inhuman practice was very general here. The island
seemed to abound with such places of sacrifice as this, at
which he was now present, and which was probably one of
the most inconsiderable of them; being much less conspicuous
than some others which we had observed as we sailed along
the coast, and particularly than that on the opposite side of
the piece of water running through this valley; the white py-
ramid of which, in all probability, derived its colour solely
from the consecrated cloth put over it. In many spots with-
in this burying-ground, were planted trees of the morinda
citrifolia, and cordia sebestina, besides several plants of
with the leaves of which the hemanaa was thatched.
The journey of our gentlemen to and from this morai, lay
through the plantations. Most of the ground was perfectly
flat, with ditches intersecting different parts, and roads that
seemed to have been raised to some height by art. The in-
tervening spaces, in general, were planted with taro, which
grew with great vigour. There were several spots where
the cloth mulberry was planted in regular rows; this also
grew vigorously. The cocoa-trees were in a less thriving
condition, and were all low; but the plantain-trees, though
the etee,


mich
OF
UNIG
Plate 10
F. Shallus.se
A MAN and WOMAN / SANDWICH ISLANDS.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
305
a
a
not large, made a pretty good appearance. Upon the whole,
the trees that are most numerous around this village, are
the cordia sebastina. The greatest part of it is situate near
the beach, and consists of upwards of sixty houses there; but
there may perhaps be near forty more scattered about, to-
wards the morai.
After the commodore, and Messrs Anderson and Webber,
had carefully examined whatever was worthy of notice about
the morai, and the latter had taken drawings of it, and of
the surrounding country, they returned by a different route.
They found a multitude of people collected at the beach,
and a brisk trade for fowls, pigs, and vegetables, going on
there, with the greatest order and decorum. At noon, cap-
tain Cook went on board to dinner, and then sent Mr. King
to take the command of the party on shore. During the
afternoon he landed again, accompanied by captain Clerke,
intending to make another excursion up the country: but,
before he could execute this design, the day was too far ad-
vanced; he therefore relinquished his intention for the present,
and no other opportunity afterwards occurred. Towards sun-
set, he and his people returned on board, after having pro-
cured, in the course of this day, nine tons of water, and
(principally by exchanging nails and pieces of iron) seventy
or eighty pigs, some fowls, plantains, potatoes, and taro
roots. In this commercial intercourse the islanders deserved
our best commendations, making no attempts to cheat us,
either along-side our ships, or on shore. Some of them, in-
deed, as we have already related, betrayed at first a pilfering
disposition; or, perhaps they imagined that they had a right
to all that they could lay their hands upon: but they quickly
desisted from a conduct, which we convinced them, could not
be persevered in with impunity.
Among the various articles which they brought to barter
this day, we were particularly struck with a sort of cloak and
cap, which, even in more polished countries, might be es-
teemed elegant. These cloaks are nearly of the shape and
size of the short ones worn by the men in Spain, and by the
women in England, tied loosely before, and reaching to the
middle of the back. The ground of them is a network,
with the most beautiful red and yellow feathers so closely
fixed upon it, that the surface, both in point of smoothness
and glossiness, resembles the richest velvet. The method of
varying the mixture is very different; some of them having
triangular spaces of yellow and red alternately; others, a sort
of crescent; while some were entirely red, except that they
VOL. I.
29

306
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
a
had a broad yellow border. The brilliant colours of the feath-
ers, in those cloaks that were new, had a very fine effect.
The natives, at first, refused to part with one of these cloaks
for any thing that we offered in exchange, demanding no less
a price than one of our muskets. They afterwards, however,
suffered us to purchase some of them for very large nails.
Those of the best sort were scarce; and it is probable, that
they are used only on particular occasions.
The caps are made in the form of a helmet, with the mid-
dle part or crest, frequently of a hand's breadth. They sit
very
close
upon the head, and have notches to admit the
ears. They consist of twigs and osiers, covered with a net-
work, into which feathers are wrought, as upon the cloaks,
but somewhat closer, and less diversified; the major part
being red, with some yellow, green or black stripes, on the
sides. These caps, in all probability, complete the dress,
,
,
with the cloaks; for the islanders appeared, sometimes, in
both together.
We could not conjecture from whence they obtained such
a quantity of these beautiful feathers; but we soon procured
intelligence respecting one sort; for they afterwards brought
for sale great numbers of skins of a small red species of birds,
frequently tied up in bunches of twenty or upwards, or hav-
,
ing a wooden skewer run through them. At first, those
that were purchased, consisted only of the skin from behind
the wings forwards; but we afterwards obtained many with
the hind part, including the feet and tail. The former in-
stantly suggested to us the origin of the fable of the birds of
paradise being destitute of legs; and sufficiently explained
that particular. The reason assigned by the inhabitants of
Atooi for the custom of cutting off the feet of these birds,
is, that by this practice they can preserve them the more
easily, without losing any part which they consider as valu-
able.
The red-bird of this island, was, according to Mr. Ander-
son, a species of merops, about as large as a sparrow; its
colour was a beautiful scarlet, with the tail and wings black;
and it had an arched bill, twice as long as the head, which,
with the feet, was of a reddish hue. The contents of the
head were taken out, as in the birds of paradise; but we did
not find, that they practised any other mode of preserving
them, than simple drying: for the skins, though they were moist,
had neither a smell nor taste that could give any reason for
suspecting the use of anti-putrescent substances.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
307
a
On Thursday the 22d, we had almost continual rain for
the whole morning. The wind was at southeast, south-
southeast, and south; and the surf broke so high upon the
shore, that our boats were prevented from landing. The
Resolution was not in a very secure situation, there being
breakers within little more than two cables' length from her
stern. The natives, notwithstanding the surf, ventured out
in their canoes, bringing off to our ships, hogs and vegetables,
which they exchanged, as before, for our commodities. One
of their number, who offered some fish-hooks for sale, was
observed to have a very small parcel, fastened to the string
of one of them, which he carefully separated, and reserved
for himself, when he disposed of the hook. When asked
what it was, he pointed to his belly, and intimated something
of its being dead; saying, at the same time, that it was bad,
He was requested to open the parcel, which he did with
great reluctance; and we found that it contained a small thin
piece of flesh, which had to all appearance, been dried, but
was at present wet with salt water. Imagining that it might
be human flesh, we put the question to the producer of it,
who answered, that the flesh was part of a man. Another of
the islanders, who stood near him, was then asked, whether
it was a custom among them to eat their enemies who had
been slain in battle; and he immediately replied in the affir-
mative.
In the afternoon, we had some intervals of fair weather.
The wind then changed to the east and northeast; but, to-
wards the evening, it veered back again to south-southeast.
The rain also returning, continued the whole night, but was
not accompanied with much wind. At seven the next morn-
ing, a northeasterly breeze springing up, captain Cook or-
dered the anchors of his ship to be taken up, with a view of
,
removing her further out. As soon as the last anchor was
up, the wind, veering to the east, rendered it necessary to
make all the sail he could, for the purpose of clearing the
,
shore; so that, before he had good sea-room, he was driven
considerably to leeward. He endeavoured to regain the road;
but having a strong current against him, and very little wind,
he could not accomplish that design. He therefore despatch-
ed Messrs King and Williamson ashore, with three boats,
to procure water and refreshments, sending, at the same
time, an order to captain Clerke, to put to sea after him, if
he should find that the Resolution was unable to recover the
road.

308
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
The commodore having hopes of finding a road, or perhaps
a harbour, at the west end of the island, was the less anxious
about regaining his former station. But as he had sent the
boats thither, he kept as much as possible to windward; not-
withstanding which, at noon, our ship was three leagues to
leeward. As we approached the west end, we found that
the coast rounded gradually to the northeast, without form-
ing a cove or creek, wherein a vessel might be sheltered from
the violence of the swell, which, rolling in from the north-
ward, broke against the shore in an amazing surf: all hopes,
therefore, of meeting with a harbour here soon vanished.
Many of the natives, in their canoes, followed us as we stood
out to sea, bartering various articles. As we were extremely
unwilling, notwithstanding the suspicious circumstance of
the preceding day, to believe that these people were cannibals,
we now made some further inquiries on this subject. A
small instrument of wood, beset with shark's teeth, had been
purchased; which, as it resembled the saw or knife made use
of by the savages of New Zealand to dissect the bodies of
their enemies, were suspected by us to be employed here for
the same purpose. One of the islanders being questioned on
this point, informed us, that the instrument above-mentioned
served the purpose of cutting out the fleshy part of the belly,
when any person was slain. This explained and confirmed
the circumstance before related, of the man's pointing to his
belly. The native, however, from whom we now received
this intelligence, being asked whether his countrymen eat the
part
thus cut out, strongly denied it; but, when the question
was repeated, he showed some degree of apprehension, and
swam off to his canoe. An elderly man, who sat foremost
in the canoe, was then asked whether they eat the flesh; and
he answered in the affirmative. The question being put to
him a second time, he again affirmed the fact; adding that it
was savoury food.
The boats returned about seven o'clock in the evening,
with a few hogs, some plantains and roots, and two tons of
water. Mr. King reported to the commodore, that the
islanders were very numerous at the watering-place, and
had brought great numbers of hogs to barter; but our people
had not commodities with them adequate to the purchase of
them all. He also mentioned, that the surf had run so very
high, that it was with extreme difficulty our men landed, and
afterwards got back into the boats.
On Saturday the 24th, at day-break, we found that our
ship had been carried by the currents to the northwest and

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
309
north; so that the western extremity of Atooi bore east, at
the distance of one league. A northerly breeze sprung up
soon after, and captain Cook expecting that this would bring
the Discovery to sea steered for Oneeheow, a neighbouring
island, which then bore southwest, with a view of anchoring
there. He continued to steer for it till past eleven, at which
time he was at the distance of about six miles from it. But
not seeing the Discovery, he was apprehensive lest some ill
consequence might arise from our separating so far; he there-
fore relinquished the design of visiting Oneeheow for the
present, and stood back to Atooi, intending to cast anchor
again in the road, in order to complete our supply of water.
At two o'clock, the northerly wind was succeeded by calms
and variable light airs, which continued till eleven at night.
We stretched to the southeast, till early in the morning of
the 25th, when we tacked and stood in for Atooi road; and,
not long after, we were joined by the Discovery. We were
utterly unable to regain the road; and by the morning of the
29th, the currents had carried us to the westward, within
nine or ten miles of Oneeheow. Weary with plying so un-
successfully, captain Cook laid aside all thoughts of return-
ing to Atooi, and resumed his intention of paying a visit to
Oneeheow. With this view, he despatched the master in a
boat, to sound along the coast, and search for a landing-place,
and afterwards for fresh water. In the mean time, the ships
followed under an easy sail. The master, at his return, re-
ported, that there was tolerable anchorage all along the coast;
and that he had landed in one place, but could not find any
fresh water.
Captain Cook being informed by some of the natives, who
had come off to the ships, that fresh water might be obtained
at a village which we saw at a little distance, ran down, and
cast anchor before it, about six furlongs from the shore, the
depth of water being twenty-six fathoms. The Discovery
anchored at a greater distance from the shore, in twenty-
three fathoms. The southeastern point of Oneeheow bore
south, 65° east, about one league distant; and another island
which we had discovered the preceding night, named Ta-
hoora, bore south, 61° west, at the distance of seven leagues.
Before we anchored, several canoes came off to us, bringing
potatoes, yams, and small pigs, besides mats. The people
who were in them resembled in their persons the inhabitants
of Atooi; and like them, were acquainted with the use of
iron, which they asked for by the names of toe and hamaite,
readily parting with all their commodities for pieces of this

310
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
metal. Some more canoes soon reached our ships, after they
had come to anchor; but the islanders who were in these had
apparently no other object, than to make us a formal visit.
Many of them came on board, and crouched down
upon
the
deck; nor did they quit that humble posture, till they were
requested to rise. Several women, whom they had brought
with them, remained along-side in the canoes, behaving with
much less modesty than the females of Atooi; and, at inter-
vals, they all joined in a song, which though not very melo-
dious was performed in the exactest concert, by beating time
upon
their breasts with their hands. The men who had come
on board did not continue long with us; and before their
departure, some of them desired permission to lay down locks
of their hair on the deck.
The curious inquiry, whether these islanders were can-
nibals, was this day renewed; and the subject did not arise
from any questions put by us, but from a circumstance that
seemed to remove all doubt. One of the natives who wished
to get in at the gun-room port, was refused; and he then
asked, whether we should kill and eat him, if he should come
in? accompanying this question with signs so expressive,
that we did not entertain a doubt with respect to his meaning.
We had now an opportunity of retorting the question as to
this practice; and a man behind the other, in the canoe, in-
stantly replied, that, if we were killed on shore, they would
not scruple to eat us; not that he meant they would destroy
us for that purpose, but that their devouring us would be the
consequence of our being at enmity with them.
Mr. Gore was sent in the afternoon, with three armed
boats, in search of the most commodious landing-place; be-
ing also directed to look for fresh water when he should get
on shore. He returned in the evening, and reported to cap-
tain Cook, that he had landed at the village above-mentioned
and had been conducted to a well about half a mile up the
country; but that the water which it contained was in too
small a quantity for our purpose, and the road that led to it
was extremely bad. The next day Mr. Gore was sent
ashore again, with a guard, and a party to trade with the
inhabitants for refreshments. The commodore's intention
was to have followed soon afterwards; and he went from the
ship with that design. But the surf had so greatly increased
by this time, that he was apprehensive, if he got ashore, he
should not be able to make his way back again. This cir-
cumstance really happened to our people who landed with
Mr. Gore; for the communication between them and the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
311
a
ships, by our own boats, was quickly stopped. They made a
signal, in the evening, for the boats, which were accordingly
sent; and, in a short time afterwards, returned with some
good salt and a few yams. A considerable quantity of both
these articles had been obtained in the course of the day; but
the surf was so exceedingly high, that the greatest part of
both had been lost in bringing them off to the boats. The
officer and twenty men, not venturing to run the risk of
coming off, remained all night on shore; by which unfortu-
nate circumstance, the very thing happened which captain
Cook, as we have already related, so eagerly wished to pre-
vent, and imagined he had effectually guarded against.
The violence of the surf did not deter the natives from
coming off in canoes to our ships. They brought with them
some refreshments, for which we gave them, in exchange,
some nails and pieces of iron hoops; and we distributed
among the women in the canoes, many pieces of ribbon, and
some buttons, as bracelets. Some of the men had represen-
tations of human figures punctured upon their breasts, and
one of them had a lizard represented. These visitants ac-
quainted us, that there was no chief of this island, but that
it was subject to one of the chiefs of Atooi, whose name was
Teneooneoo. Among other articles which they now brought
off to us, was a small drum, that had a great resemblance to
those of Otaheite.
Between ten and eleven o'clock at night, the wind became
southerly, and the sky seemed to indicate an approaching
storm. In consequence of these threatening appearances,
captain Cook, thinking that we were rather too near
the shore,
caused the anchors to be taken up; and the ships being car-
ried into forty-two fathoms water, came to again in that
more secure station. This, however, proved an unnecessary
precaution; for the wind, not long after, veering to north-
northeast, blew a fresh gale, with squalls, and violent show-
ers of rain. This weather continued for the whole succeed-
ing day, during which the sea ran so high, that all commu-
nication with our party on shore was totally intercepted, and
the islanders themselves would not venture out to the ships
in their canoes. Towards the evening, the commodore sent
the master in a boat to the southeast point of the island, to
try whether he could land in that quarter. He returned with
a favourable report; but it was now too late to send for our
party till the following morning: so that they were obliged
to stay another night on shore. On the appearance of day-
light, a boat was despatched to the southeast point, with or
a

312
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
ders to lieutenant Gore, that, if he could not embark his peo-
ple from the spot where they at present were, he should
march them up to the point. The boat being prevented from
getting to the beach, one of the crew swam off to shore, and
communicated the instructions. After the boat had return-
ed, captain Cook went himself with the launch and pinnace
up to the point, in order to bring off our party from the land.
He took with him three goats, one of them a male, and the
others female; a young boar and sow of the English breed;
and also the seeds of onions, pumpkins, and melons. He
landed, with great ease, under the west side of the point,
where he found his party, in company with some of the na-
tives. To one of these, who assumed some degree of au-
thority over the rest, he gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. He
intended to have left these useful presents at Atooi, if we
had not been so unexpectedly driven from that island.
While our people were employed in filling some water
casks, from a little stream which the late rains had occasion-
ed, captain Cook made a short excursion into the country,
accompanied by the islander above mentioned, and followed
by two others who carried the two pigs. When they had
arrived upon a rising ground, the captain stopped to look
around him, and immediately observed a woman, on the op-
posite side of the valley in which he had landed, calling out
to her countrymen who attended him. Upon this the man
who acted as chief began to mutter something, as if he was
praying; and the two bearers of the pigs continued walking
round the captain all the time, making about a dozen circuits
before the other had made an end of his oration. This strange
ceremony being performed, they proceeded on their walk and
met people coming from all quarters, who upon being called
to by the captain's attendants, fell prostrate on their faces,
till he was out of sight. The ground over which he passed,
though it was uncultivated and very stony, was covered with
plants and shrubs, some of which perfumed the air with the
most delicious fragrance.
Our party who had been detained so long on shore, found,
in those parts of the island which they had traversed, several
salt ponds, some of which had a small quantity of water re-
maining, but others had none. They saw no appearance of
a running stream; and though, in some small wells which
they met with, the fresh water was pretty good, it seemed to
be scarce. The houses of the natives were thinly scattered
about; and it was supposed, that there were not more than
five hundred persons in the whole island.
in the whole island. The method of
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
313
a
living among these people was decent and cleanly. No in-
stance was observed of the men and women eating together;
and the latter seemed in general to be associated in companies
by themselves. The oily nuts of the dooe dooe are burned by
these islanders for lights during the night; and they dress
their hogs by baking them in ovens, splitting the carcasses
through the whole length. Our people met with a sufficient
proof of the existence of the tahoo among them; for one wo-
man was employed in feeding another who was under that
interdiction. Several other mysterious ceremonies were also
observed, one of which was performed by a woman, who
threw a pig into the surf and drowned it, and then tied a
bundle of wood, which she disposed of in the like manner.
The same female, at another time, beat a man's shoulders
with a stick, after he had seated himself for that purpose.
An extraordinary veneration seemed to be paid here to owls,
which they keep very tame. It appeared to be a pretty ge.
neral practice among them, to pull out one of their teeth; and
when they were asked the reason of this remarkable custom,
the only answer they gave was, that it was teeha; which was
also the reason assigned by them for giving a lock of their
hair.
After our water-casks had been filled, and some roots, salt,
and salted fish, had been purchased from the natives, captain
Cook returned on board with all his people, intending to
make another visit to the island the next day. But, about
seven in the evening, the anchor of the Resolution started,
so that she drove off the bank. By this accident, we found
ourselves, at day-break the next morning, which was the 2d
of February, nine miles to the leeward of our last station;
and the captain foreseeing that it would require more time
to regain it than he chose to employ, made the signal for the
Discovery to weigh anchor and join us. This junction was
effected about noon; and both ships immediately directed their
course to the northward, in prosecution of their voyage.
Thus, after we had spent more time in the neighbourhood of
these islands than was necessary to have answered all our
purposes, we were obliged to quit them before we had com-
pleted our stock of water, or procured from them such a
plentiful supply of refreshments as the natives were both able
and willing to have furnished us with. Our ship, however,
obtained from them provisions that lasted at least three
weeks; and captain Clerke, more fortunate than we were, ac-
quired such a quantity of vegetables, as sufficed the Discovery's
people upwards of two months.
VOL. I.
Rr

314
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
The observations which captain Cook was enabled to make
on these islands, combined with those of Mr. Anderson,
whose abilities and assiduity rendered him a very useful as-
sistant on such occasions, are as follow:
The islands in the Pacific ocean, which have been dis-
covered in the course of our late voyages, have been generally
found situate in groups; the single intermediate isles, hitherto
met with, being few in proportion to the rest; though, in all
probability, there are many more of them yet unknown,
which serve as gradations or steps between the several clus-
ters. Of what number this new discovered Archipelago is
composed, must be left to the decision of future navigators.
We observed five of them, whose names are Woahoo, Atooi,
Oneeheeow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The last of these is
a small elevated island, at the distance of about four or five
leagues from the southeast point of Oneeheow. We were
informed that it abounds with birds, which are its sole in-
habitants. We also gained some intelligence with regard to
the existence of a low uninhabited island in the neighbour-
hood, named Tammatapappa. Besides these six, we were
told, that there were some other islands both to the east-
ward and westward. Captain Cook distinguished the whole
group by the name of the Sandwich islands, in honour of
the earl of Sandwich. Those which he saw are situated
between the latitude of 21° 30', and 220 15' north, and be-
tween the longitude of 1990 20', and 201° 30', east.
With respect to Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands,
seen by us, we could get no other information, but that it is
high land, and is inhabited.
Oneeheow, concerning which some particulars have been
already mentioned, lies seven leagues to the westward of our
anchoring place at Atooi, and does not exceed fifteen leagues
in circumference. Yams are its principal vegetable produc-
tion. We procured some salt here, called by the natives
patai, which is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure
both fish and pork; and some salt fish, which we purchased
from them, were extremely good, and kept very well. This
island is chiefly low land, except the part opposite Atooi,
which rises immediately from the sea to a considerable
height; as does also its southeast point, which terminates in
a round hill.
Of Oreehoua we knew no other particulars than that it is
an elevated island, of small extent, lying close to the north
side of Oneeheow,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
315
We shall now proceed to lay before our readers such in-
formation, concerning Atoi, which is the largest of those
we saw, as we are able to collect. From what we observed
of it, it is, at least, ten leagues in length from east to west;
from whence its circumference may nearly be guessed,
though it appears to be much broader at the east than at the
west point. The road, or anchoring place, which our vessels
occupied, is on the southwest side of the island, about two
leagues from the west end, before a village named Wymoa.
As far as we sounded, we found the bank free from rocks;
except to the eastward of the village, where there projects a
shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers. This road is
somewhat exposed to the trade-wind; notwithstanding which
defect, it is far from being a bad station, and greatly superior
to those which necessity continually obliges ships to use, in
countries where the winds are not only more variable, but
more boisterous; as at Madeira, Teneriffe, the Azores, &C.
The landing too is not so difficult as at most of those places,
and, unless in very bad weather, is always practicable. The
water in the neighbourhood is excellent, and may
be
convey-
ed with ease to the boats. But no wood can be cut at any
convenient distance, unless the islanders could be prevailed
upon to part with the few etooa trees (for that is the name
they give to the cordia sebastina) that grow about their vil- .
lages, or a species called dooe dooe, which grows farther up
the country
The land does not in the least resemble, in its general ap-
pearance, any of the islands we have visited within the tropic
of Capricorn; if we except its hills near the centre, which
are high, but slope gradually towards the sea, or lower lands.
Though it presents not to the view the delightful borders of
Otaheite, or the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with
trees,
which at once afford a shelter from the scorching rays
of the sun, a beautiful prospect to the eye, and food for the
natives; yet its possessing a greater portion of gentle rising
land, renders it, in some degree, superior to the above-men-
tioned favourite islands, as being more capable of improve-
The height of the land within, and the number of
clouds which we saw, during the whole time of our continu-
ance, hanging over it, and not unfrequently on the other
parts, seem to indicate that there is a sufficient supply of
water, and that there are some running streams which we
had not an opportunity of seeing, particularly in the deep
vallies, at the entrance of which the villages are, in general,
situated. The ground, from the wooded part to the sea, is
ment.

316
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
covered with an excellent kind of grass, about two feet in
height, which sometimes grows in tufts, and appeared capable
of being converted into abundant crops of fine hay. But on
this extensive space not even a shrub grows naturally.
In the narrow valley leading to the morai, the soil is of a
dark brown colour, rather loose; but, on the high ground, it
is of a reddish brown, more stiff and clayey. It is probably
the same all over the cultivated parts; for what adhered to
most of the potatoes that we purchased, which, doubtless
came from very different spots, was of this sort.
Its quality
however, may be better estimated from its productions than
from its appearance. For the vale, or moist ground, pro-
duces taro, much larger than any we had ever seen; and the
more elevated ground furnishes sweet potatoes, that seldom
weigh less than two or three pounds, and frequently weigh
ten, and sometimes a dozen or fourteen pounds.
Were we to judge of the climate from our experience, it
might be said to be very variable; for according to the
gene-
ral opinion, it was, at this time, the season of the year when
the weather is supposed to be most settled, the sun being at his
greatest annual distance. The heat was now very moderate;
and few of those inconveniences to which many countries
lying within the tropics are subject, either from heat or mois-
ture, seem to be experienced here. Nor did we find
any
dews of consequence; a circumstance which may partly be
accounted for, by the lower part of the country being desti-
tute of trees.
The rock that constitutes the sides of the valley, is a dark
gray ponderous stone; but honey-combed, with some spots
of a rusty colour, and some very minute shining particles in-
terspersed. It is of an immense depth, and seems to be di-
vided into strata, though nothing is interposed; for the large
pieces always broke off to a determinate thickness, and did
not appear to have adhered to those that were below them.
Other stones are, in all probability, much more various than
in the southern islands. For, during the short time we re-
mained here, besides the lapis lydius, we found a species of
a cream-coloured whet-stone, sometimes variegated with
whiter or blacker veins, like marble; and common writing
slate, as well as some of a coarser sort; and the natives
brought us some pieces of a coarse whitish pumice stone.
We also procured a brown sort of hematites, which, from its
being strongly attracted by the magnet, discovered the quan-
tity of metal it contained. What we saw of this was cut ar-
tificially, as were also the slates and whet-stones,
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
317
a
a
Besides the vegetables purchased by us as refreshments,
among which were, at least, five or six varieties of plantains,
the island produces bread-fruit: this, however, seems to be
scarce, as we only saw one tree of that species. There are
also a few cocoa-palms; some yams; the kappe of the Friend-
ly islands, or Virginian arum; the etooa tree, and odorifer-
ous gardenia, or cape jasmine. We met with several trees
of the dooe dooe, that bear the oily nuts, which are stuck up-
on a kind of skewer, and made use of as candles. Our people
saw them used in the same manner at Oneeheow. We were
not on shore at Atooi except in the day time, and then we
observed the islanders wearing these nuts, hung on strings,
round their necks. There is a species of sida, or Indian mal-
low; also the morinda citrifolia, which is here called none; a
species of convolvulus; the ava, or intoxicating pepper,
be-
sides great quantities of gourds. These last grow to a very
large size, and are of a remarkable variety of shapes, which
are, perhaps, the effect of art. Upon the dry sand, about the
village, grew a plant, that had never been seen by us in this
ocean, of the size of a common thistle, and prickly; but bear-
ing a fine flower, greatly resembling a white poppy.
The scarlet birds, which were brought for sale, were ne-
ver met with alive; but we saw one small one, about the size
of a canary bird, of a deep crimson colour. We also saw a
large owl, two brown hawks, or kites, and a wild duck. We
heard from the natives the names of some other birds; among
which were the otoo, or bluish heron, and the torata, a sort
of whimbrel. It is probable that the species of birds are nu-
merous, if we may judge by the quantity of fine yellow, green,
and small, velvet-like, blackish feathers used upon the cloaks,
and other ornaments, worn by these people.
Fish, and other productions of the sea, were, to appear-
ance, not various; as, besides the small mackarel, we only
saw common mullets; a species of a chalky colour; a small
brownish rock-fish, adorned with blue spots; a turtle, which
was penned up in a pond; and three or four sorts of fish salt-
ed. The few shell-fish seen by us were chiefly converted
into ornaments, though they were destitute of the recom-*
mendation either of beauty or novelty.
The only tame or domestic animals that we found here
were hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were all of the same kind
that we met with at the islands of the South Pacific. There
were also small lizards; and some rats, resembling those of
every island which we had hitherto visited.

318
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
The inhabitants of Atooi are of the middle size, and, in
general, stoutly made. They are neither remarkable for a
beautiful shape, nor for striking features. Their visage, par-
ticularly that of the women, is sometimes round, but others
have it long; nor can it justly be said, that they are distin-
guished, as a nation, by any general cast of countenance.
Their complexion is nearly of a nut brown; but some indivi-
duals are of a darker hue. We have already mentioned the
women as being little more delicate than the men in their
formation; and we may add, that, with few exceptions, they
have little claim to those peculiarities that distinguish the sex
in most other parts of the world. There is, indeed, a very
remarkable equality in the size, colour and figure, of the na-
tives of both sexes: upon the whole, however, they are far
from being ugly, and have, to all appearance, few natural de-
formities of any kind. Their skin is not very soft, nor shin-
ing; but their eyes and teeth are, for the most part, pretty
,
good. Their hair, in general, is straight; and though its na-
tural colour is usually black, they stain it, as at the Friendly
and other islands. We perceived but few instances of cor-
pulence, and these more frequently among the women than
the men; but it was principally among the latter, that
person-
al defects were observed; though, if any of them can lay
claim to a share of beauty, it appeared to be most conspicu-
ous amongst the young men.
They are active, vigorous, and most expert swimmers;
leaving their canoes upon the most frivolous occasion, diving
under them, and swimming to others, though at a consider-
able distance. We have frequently seen women, with infants
at the breast, when the surf was so high as to prevent their
landing in their canoes, leap overboard, and swim to the
shore, without endangering their little ones.
They appear to be of a frank, cheerful disposition; and
are equally free from the fickle levity which characterizes
the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the sedate cast which is ob-
servable among many of those of Tongataboo. They seem
to cultivate a sociable intercourse with each other; and, ex-
cept the propensity to thieving which is, as it were, innate in
most of the people we have visited in these seas, they were
extremely friendly to us. And it does no small credit to
their sensibility without flattering ourselves, that when they
saw the different articles of our European manufacture, they
could not refrain from expressing their astonishment, by a
mixture of joy and concern, that seemed to apply the case
as a lesson of humility to themselves; and, on every occasi-
on, they appeared to have a proper consciousness of their

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
319
own inferiority; a behaviour that equally exempts their na-
tional character from the ridiculous pride of the more polished
Japanese, and of the ruder native of Greenland. It was
pleasing to observe with what affection the women managed
their infants, and with what alacrity the men contributed their
assistance in such a tender office; thus distinguishing them-
selves from those savages who consider a wife and child as
things rather necessary, than desirable, or worthy of their re-
gard and esteem.
From the numbers that we saw assembled at every vil.
lage, as we coasted along, it may be conjectured, that the in-
habitants of this island are pretty numerous. Including the
straggling houses, there might perhaps be, in the whole
island, sixty such villages as that near which our ships anchor-
ed; and, if we allow five persons to each house, there would
be, in every village, five hundred or thirty thousand upon
the island. This number is by no means exaggerated, for
there were sometimes three thousand people, at least, collect-
ed upon the beach; when it could not be supposed, that
above the tenth part of the natives were present.
The ordinary dress of both sexes has been already des-
cribed. The women have often much larger pieces of cloth
wrapped about them, extending from just below the breasts
to the hams, and sometimes lower; and several were obsery-
ed with pieces thrown loosely over their shoulders, which
covered the greatest part of the body; but the children when
very young, are entirely naked. They wear nothing upon
the head; but the hair, both of men and women, is cut in va-
rious forms; and the general fashion, particularly among the
latter, is to have it short behind, and long before. The men
frequently had it cut on each side in such a manner, that the
remaining part somewhat resembled the crest of their caps
or hemlets, before mentioned. Both sexes, however, seemed
to be very careless about their hair, and had no combs, nor
any thing of the kind, to dress it with. The men sometimes
twist it into a number of separate parcels, like the tails of a
wig, each about as thick as a finger; though most of these,
which are so long as to reach far down the back, are artifi-
cially fixed upon the head over their own hair.
Contrary to the general practice of most of the islands of
the Pacific ocean, the people of the Sandwich isles have not
their ears perforated, nor do they wear any ornaments in
them.
Both men and women, however, adorn themselves
with necklaces composed of bunches of small black cord, like
our hat-strings, often above a hundred fold; entirely resem.

320
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
bling those we saw worn at Wateeoo, except that, instead of
the two little balls on the middle before, they fix a small
piece of wood, stone or shell, about two inches in length,
with a broad hook, well polished. They have also necklaces
of many strings of very small shells, or of the dried flowers
of the Indian mallow; and they sometimes hang round their
necks a small human figure of bone, about the length of three
inches. The women likewise wear bracelets of a single shell,
pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed, and
neatly polished, fastened together by a string drawn closely
through them; or others of hogs' teeth, placed parallel to each
other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut off,
some of which, formed only of large boar's tusks, are very
elegant. The men sometimes fix on their heads plumes of
feathers of the tropic bird; or those of cocks, fastened round
neat polished sticks, two feet in length; and, for the same
purpose they sew the skin of a white dog's tail over a stick,
with its tuft at the end. They also, not unfrequently, wear
on the head a kind of ornament, of the thickness of a finger
or more, covered with yellow and red feathers, curiously
varied, and tied behind; and on that part of the arm which
is above the elbow, a sort of broad shell-work, grounded
upon net-work.
The men sometimes puncture themselves upon their hands
and near the groin; but frequently we saw no marks
at all; though a few individuals had more of this species of
ornament than we had usually seen at other places, and cu-
riously executed in a great variety of lines and figures, on
the arms and fore part of the body. Contrary to the custom
of the Friendly and Society islands, they do not slit, or cut
off, any part of the prepuce; but have it universally drawn
over the glans, and tied with a string.
There is no appearance of defence, or fortification, near
any of their villages, and the houses are scattered about,
without the least order. Some of these habitations are large
and commodious, from forty to fifty feet in length, and twen-
ty or thirty in breadth; while others of them are contemptible
hovels. Their figure resembles that of hay-stacks; or, per-
haps, a better idea may be conceived of them, by supposing
the roof of a barn placed on the ground, in such a manner,
as to form a high, acute ridge, with two low sides. The
gable at each end, corresponding to the sides, makes these
dwelling-places close all round; and they are well thatched
with long grass, which is laid on slender poles. The en-
trance is made either in the end or side, and is an oblong
or arms,
a

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Plate 20.
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AMAN of the SANDWICH ISLANDS DANCING.
A MAN of the SANDWICH ISLANDS in a MASK.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
321
a
hole extremely low; it is often shut up by a board of planks
fastened together, which serves as a door; but, as it has no
hinges, must be removed occasionally. No light enters the
house except by this opening; and though such close habita-
tions may be comfortable places of retreat in bad weather, they
seem but ill-adapted to the warm climate of this country.
They are kept remarkably clean, and the floors are strewed
with dried grass, over which mats are spread to sit and sleep
on. At one end stands a bench, about three feet high, on
which the domestic utensils are placed. These consist of
ground-shells, which the natives convert into vessels that
serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to contain their
food, and other things; and also of a few wooden bowls and
trenchers of various size.
From what we saw growing, and from what was brought
to market, we have no doubt, that sweet potatoes, taro, and
plantains, constitute the principal part of their vegetable diet;
and that yams and bread-fruit are rather to be considered as
rarities. Of animal food, they appear to be in no want; as
they have great numbers of hogs, which run, without restraint,
about the houses; and, if they eat dogs, which is not al-
together improbable, their stock of these seemed very con-
siderable. The quantities of fishing-hooks found among
them, indicated that they procure a tolerable supply of ani-
mal food from the sea. They have a custom of salting fish,
and likewise pork, which they preserve in gourd-shells. The
salt, which they use for this purpose, is of a reddish colour,
but not very coarse, and seems to be nearly the same with
what our stragglers found at Christmas island. Its colour,
is, doubtless, derived from a mixture of mud at the bottom
of the part where it is formed; for some of it, which had
adhered in lumps, was of a tolerable whiteness.
They bake their vegetable articles of food with heated
stones; and, from the great quantity which we saw dressed
at one time, we imagined, that all the inhabitants of a village
or at least, a considerable number of people, joined in the
use of a common oven. We did not perceive them dress
any animal food at this island; but Mr. Gore's party, as has
been already mentioned, observed that it was dressed at
Oneeheow in the same kind of ovens, which makes it highly
probable that this is also the practice in Atooi; particularly
as we met with no utensil there, that could serve the purpose
of boiling or stewing. The only artificial dish we saw, was
a taro pudding; which, though very sour, was devoured
with avidity by the natives. They eat off a sort of wooden
VOL. I.
SS

322
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
a
trenchers; and, as far as we were enabled to judge from one
instance, the women, if restrained from feeding at the same
dish with the men, as is the custom at Otaheite, are at least,
allowed to eat in the same place near them.
The amusements of these people are various. We did
not see the dances, at which they use the feathered cloaks
and caps; but, from the motions which they made with their
hands, on other occasions, when they sung, we judged that
they were somewhat similar to those we had met with at the
southern islands, though not so skilfully performed. They
had not, among them, either flutes or reeds; and the only
two musical instruments, seen by us, were of an extremely
rude kind. One of them does not produce a melody supe-
rior to that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be
denominated a conic cap inverted, but very little hollowed
at the base, made of a sedge-like plant; the upper part of
which, and likewise the edges, are embellished with beau-
tiful red feathers; and to the point, or lower part, is fixed a
gourd-shell. Into this they put something to rattle, which
is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and
shaking it briskly before the face, at the same time striking
the breast with the other hand. The other instrument was
a hollow vessel of wood, not unlike a platter, combined with
the use of two sticks, on which one of our gentlemen observ-
ed a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about two
feet in length, with one hand, in the same manner as we hold
a violin, and struck it with the other which was smaller, and
resembling a drum stick, in a quicker or slower measure;
beating with his foot at the same time upon the hollow ves-
sel, that lay upon the ground inverted, and thus producing a
tune, that was not disagreeable. The music was accompanied
by the vocal performance of some women,
had
a pleasing effect.
They have great numbers of small polished rods, of the
length of between four and five feet, rather thicker than the
rammer of a musket, with a tuft of long white dog's hair
fixed on the small end. These they probably make use of in
their diversions. We saw a native take one of them in his
hand, and holding it up, give a smart stroke, till it was
brought into an horizontal position, striking the ground with
his foot on the same side, and beating his breast with his
other hand. They play at bowls with pieces of whet-stone
above-mentioned, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but
rounded at the edges and sides, which are very neatly polish-
ed. They have other bowls made of a reddish brown clay,
whose song

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
323
glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a
course dark gray slate. They also use, as quoits, small flat
roundish pieces of the writing slate, scarcely a quarter of an
inch thick.
In the different manufactures of these people, there appears
to be an extraordinary degree of ingenuity and neatness.
Their cloth is made from the morus papyrifera, and doubt-
less, in the same manner, as at Tongataboo and Otaheite; for
we bought some of the grooved sticks with which they beat
it. Its texture, however, though thicker, is inferior to that
of the cloth of either of the places just mentioned; but in
colouring or staining it, the inhabitants of Atooi display a
superiority of taste, by the infinite variety of figures which
they execute. Their colours, indeed, are not very bright
except the red; but the regularity of the figures and stripes is
amazing; for, as far as we know, they have nothing like
stamps or prints, to make the impressions. We had no op-
portunity of learning in what manner they produce their co-
lours, but, besides the variegated sorts, they have some pie-
ces of plain white cloth, and others of a single colour, par-
ticularly light-blue, and dark-brown. In general, the pieces
brought to us were about the breadth of two feet, and four
or five yards in length, being the form and quantity made
use of by them for their common dress, or maro; and even
some of these were composed of pieces sewed together.
They have also a particular sort that is thin, and greatly re-
sembles oil-cloth; and which is either oiled or soaked in some
kind of varnish. They fabricate numbers of white mats,
which are strong, with many red stripes, rhombuses, and
,
other figures interwoven on one side. These, in all probability
occasionally make a part of their dress; for when they of-
fered them for sale, they put them on their backs. They
manufacture others of a coarser sort, plain and strong, which
they spread over their floors to sleep upon.
They stain their gourd-shells neatly with undulated lines,
triangles, and other figures of a black colour. They also
,
seem to be acquainted with the art of varnishing; for some
of these stained gourd-shells are covered with a sort of
lacker; and, on other occasions, they make use of a strong
size, or glutinous substance, to fasten things together. Their
wooden dishes and bowls, out of which they drink their ava,
are of the etooa tree, or cordia, extremely neat and well
polished. They also make small square fans of mat or
wicker-work, with handles of the same, or of wood, tapering
from them, which are curiously wrought with small cords

324
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
а
of hair, and cocoa-nut fibres, intermixed. Their fishing-
hooks are ingeniously made; some of bone, many of pearl-
shell, and others of wood, pointed with bone. The bones
are for the most part small, and consist of two pieces; and
the various sorts have a barb, either on the inside, like ours,
or on the outside; but others have both, the exterior one
being farthest from the point. Of the latter sort, one was
procured, nine inches in length, made of a single piece of
bone; the elegant form and polish of which, could not be
exceeded by any European artist. They polish their stones,
by constant friction, with pumice stone, in water; and such
of their tools as we saw, resembled those of the southern
islanders. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly the
same pattern, and were either formed of a blackish stone, or
of a clay coloured one. They have also small instruments
composed of a single shark's tooth, some of which are fixed
to the fore part of the jaw-bone of a dog, and others to a
thin wooden handle, of a similar shape, and at the other end
there is a bit of string fastened through a little hole. These
serve occasionally as knives, and are probably, used in car-
ving.
The only iron tools seen among them, and which they pos-
sessed before our arrival, were a piece of iron hook, about
the length of two inches, fitted into a wooden handle; and
another edge tool, which we supposed to have been made of
the point of a broad sword. Their having the actual posses-
sion of these, and their being well acquainted with the use
of this metal, inclined some of our people to imagine that we
were not the first European visiters of these islands. But
the
very great surprise which they testified on seeing our
ships, and the perfect ignorance of the use of fire arms, can-
not be reconciled with such an opinion. There are several
means by which such people may obtain pieces of iron, or
acquire the knowledge of the existence of that metal, without
having had an immediate connexion with those nations that
use it. It can scarcely be doubted, that it was unknown to all
the inhabitants of the Pacific ocean, till Magellan led the
way into it; for no navigator, immediately after his voyage,
found any of this metal in their possession; though, in the
course of our late voyages, it has been remarked, that the
use of it was known at several islands, which no former Eu-
ropean vessels had ever, to our knowledge, visited. At all
the places where Mendana touched, during his two voyages,
some of it must have been left; and this would, doubtless,
extend the knowledge of it to all the various islands with
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
325
a
which the people, whom he visited, had any immediate in-
tercourse. It might even have been carried farther; and
where specimens of this valuable article could not be met
with, descriptions might, in some degree serve to make it
known when afterwards seen. The next voyage to the southward
of the equator, in which any intercourse was had with the
people who inhabit the islands of this ocean, was that of Qui-
ros, who landed at Sagittaria, the island of Handsome People,
and at Tierra del Espiritu Santo; at all which places, as well
as at those with which they had any communication, it must
undoubtedly have been made known. To him succeeded, in
this navigation, Le Maire, and Schouten whose connexions
with the natives began much farther to the eastward, and
terminated at Cocos and Horn islands. It is certain, that the
inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society isles, had a knowl-
edge of iron, and purchased it with the greatest avidity,
when captain Wallis discovered Otaheite; and they could on-
ly have acquired this knowledge through the mediation of
those neighbouring islands at which it had been originally
left. They acknowledge, indeed, that this was really the
case; and they have since informed us, that they held it in
such estimation, before the arrival of captain Wallis, that
an Otaheitean chief who had gained possession of two nails,
received no small emolument, by letting out the use of them
to his neighbours for the purpose of boring holes. The na-
tives of the Society islands, whom we found at Wateeoo,
had been driven to that place long after the knowledge and
use of iron had been thus introduced among their country
men; and though, perhaps, they had no specimen of it with
them, they would naturally communicate at that island, by
description, their knowledge of this useful metal. From the
people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey's island might
derive that inclination for it, of which we had sufficient proofs
during our short intercourse with them.
The consideration of these facts will show, how the knowl-
edge of iron has been conveyed throughout the Pacific ocean,
to islands which have never had an immediate connexion
with Europeans; and it may easily be imagined, that, where-
ever the history of it only has been reported, or a very in-
considerable quantity of it has been left, the greater eager.
ness will be shown by the inhabitants to procure plentiful
supplies of it. The application of these particulars, to the
object of our present consideration, is manifest. The natives
of Atooi and Oneeheow, without having ever been visited
by Europeans before us, might have received this metal from

326
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
intermediate islands, situated between them and the Ladrones,
which the Spaniards have frequented almost ever since the
period of Magellan's voyage. Or, if the distant western posi-
tion of the Ladrones, should detract from the probability of
this solution, is there not the American continent to wind-
ward, where the Spaniards had been settled for upwards of
two centuries and a half; during which long space of time,
shipwrecks must frequently have happened on its coasts?
It cannot be deemed surprising, that part of such wrecks,
containing iron, should, by the easterly trade-winds, be oc-
casionally cast upon some of these islands which are dispers-
ed upon this immense ocean. The distance of Atooi from
America, is no argument against this supposition; and even
if it were, it would not destroy it. This ocean is annually
traversed by Spanish vessels, and it is highly probable, that,
besides the accident of losing a mast and its appendages,
casks with iron-hoops and many other things that contain
iron, may fall, or be thrown overboard during so long a pas-
sage,
and thus find their way to land. These are not mere
conjectures; for one of captain Cook's people actually saw
some wood in a house at Wymoa, which he supposed to be
fir: it was worm-eaten, and the natives informed him, that
it had been driven ashore by the waves, and we had their
own express testimony, that they had obtained, from some
places to the eastward, the specimens of iron found among
them.
From this digression (if it can justly be called so) let us
return to the observations made during our continuance at
Atooi. The canoes of these people are commonly about four
and twenty feet in length, and have the bottom, in general,
formed of a single piece of wood, hollowed out to the thick-
ness of an inch, or more, and brought to a point at each end.
The sides are composed of three boards, each about an inch
thick, neatly fitted and lashed to the bottom. The extremities,
both at head and stern, are a little elevated, and both are
made sharp, somewhat resembling a wedge, but they flatten
more abruptly, so that the two side-boards join each other,
side by side, for upwards of a foot. As they seldom exceed
a foot and a half in breadth, those that go single (for they
sometimes join them) have out-riggers, which are shaped
and fitted with more judgment than any we had before seen.
They are rowed by paddles, such as we had generally ob-
served at other islands; and some of them have a light tri-
angular sail, extended to a mast and boom. The
ropes
which
a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
327
they use for their boats, and the small cords for their fishing-
tackle, are strong, and neatly made.
They are by no means novices in the art of agriculture.
The vale ground is one continued plantation of taro, and
some other articles, which have all the appearance of being
carefully attended to. The potatoe-fields, and spots of sugar-
cane, or plantains, on the higher grounds, are planted with
great regularity; but neither these, nor the others, are en-
closed with any fence, unless we consider the ditches in the
low grounds as such; which, it is more probable, are de
signed to convey water to the taro. The great quantity and
excellence of these articles, may perhaps be as much owing
to skilful culture, as natural fertility of soil, which seems
better adapted to them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut
trees; the few we saw of these latter not being in a thriving
state. Notwithstanding the skill in agriculture, the island,
from its general appearance, seemed to be capable of more
extensive improvement, and of maintaining thrice as many
inhabitants as are now upon it; for the greater part of it,
that now lies waste, was apparently as good a soil as those
parts that are cultivated. It must therefore be inferred, that
these people do not increase in that proportion, which would
render it necessary for them to take advantage of the extent
of their island, towards raising a greater quantity of its veg-
etable productions for their maintenance.
Though captain Cook did not see a chief of any note,
there were, however, several, as the islanders informed us,
who reside at Atooi, and to whom they prostrate themselves
as a mark of homage and respect. This prostration, seems
equivalent to the moe moea, paid to the chiefs of the Friend-
ly islands, and is here denominated hamoea, or moe. Whether
they were, at first, afraid to show themselves, or happened
to be absent, we cannot determine; but after the Resolution
had left the island, one of these great men made his appear-
ance, and visited captain Clerke on board the Discovery; he
came off in a double canoe; and, like the sovereign of the
Friendly isles, paid no regard to the small canoes that
chanced to be in his way, but ran against, or over them, with-
out making the least attempts to avoid them. And it was
impossible for these poor people to avoid him, for they could
not then manage their canoes; it being a necessary mark of
their submission, that they should lie
down till he had pas-
sed. His attendants assisted him in getting on board the
ship, and placed him in the gang-way, where they stood round
him, holding each other by the hands; nor would they suffer

S26
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
any one to approach him but captain Clerke himself. He
was a young man, apparelled from head to foot, and was
accompanied by a young woman, who was perhaps his wife.
His name was said to be Tamahano. Captain Clerke having
made him some presents, received from him, in return, a
large bowl, supported by two figures of men, the carving of
which displayed some degree of skill, both with respect to
the design and execution. This bowl used to be filled with
the kava, or ava, (as it is termed at Otaheite, which liquor
is prepared and drunk here as at the other islands of the
Pacific ocean. Captain Clerke could not prevail upon this
chief to go below, nor to move from the spot where his at-
tendants had first placed him. After remaining some time
in the ship, he was carried back into his canoe, and returned
to the island. The following day, several messages were
sent to captain Clerke, inviting him to return the visit on
shore, and giving him to understand, that the chief had pre-
pared a considerable present for the occasion; but the captain
being anxious to get out to sea, and join the Resolution, did
not think proper to accept of the invitation.
The short and imperfect intercourse we had with the na-
tives, did not enable us to form any accurate judgment of
the form of government established amongst them; but, from
the general similarity of customs, and particularly from what
we observed of the honours paid to their chiefs, it seems
reasonable to imagine, that it is of the same nature with that
which prevails in all the islands we had hitherto visited: and,
in all probability, their wars among themselves are equally
frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred, from the number
of weapons which we found in their possession, and from
the excellent order in which they kept them. But we had
proofs of the fact from their own confession; and, as we were
informed, these wars are carried on between the different dis-
tricts of their own island, as well as between it and the neigh-
bouring inhabitants of the isles of Onecheow and Oreehoua.
We scarcely need assign any other cause besides this, to ac-
count for the appearance, before mentioned, of their popula-
tion not being proportioned to the extent of their ground that
is capable of cultivation.
Besides their spears, formed of a fine brownish wood,
beautifully polished, some of which are barbed at one end,
and flattened to a point at the other, they have a kind of wea-
pon which we had never met with before. It somewhat re-
sembles á dagger, and is, in general, about eighteen inches
in length, sharpened at one or both ends, and secured to the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
329
a
a
hand by a string. Its use is to stab in close combat, and it
seems well adapted to that purpose. Some of these may be
.
denominated double daggers, having a handle in the middle,
with which they are the better enabled to strike different
ways. They have likewise bows and arrows; but from their
slender construction, and their apparent scarcity, it is probable
that they never make use of them in battle. The knife or
saw, already mentioned, with which they dissect the dead
bodies of their enemies, may also be ranked among
their
weapons, as they both strike and cut with it when engaged
in close fight. It is a small flat wooden instrument, about a
foot in length, of an oblong shape, rounded at the corners; its
edges are surrounded with shark's teeth strongly fixed to it,
and pointing outwards; and it has generally a hole in the
handle, through which passes a long string, which they wrap
several times round the wrist. We also conjectured, that
they use slings on some occasions; for we procured some
pieces of the hematites or blood stone artificially made of an
oval form, longitudinally divided, with a narrow groove in
the middle of the convex part. To this, the person who had
one of them, applied a thin cord, but would not dispose of
it, though he was not unwilling to part with the stone, which
as it weighed a pound, must prove fatal when thrown with
some degree of force. We likewise saw some pieces of whet-
stone neatly polished, of an oval figure, but somewhat point-
ed towards each end; nearly resembling in shape some stones
seen by captain Cook at New Caledonia in 1774, and made
use of there in slings.
As some of their religious institutions, and their method
of disposing of their dead, strongly indicate an affinity be-
tween the manners of these people and of the natives of the
Friendly and Society islands, we will mention a few parti-
culars that will serve to place this in a striking point of view.
The inhabitants of Tongataboo bury their dead with great
decency, and they also inter thcir human sacrifices; but they
do not, to our knowledge, offer any other animals, or even
vegetables, to their deities. The Otaheiteans do not inter
their dead, but expose them to waste by time and putrefac-
tion, though they afterwards bury the bones; and, this being
it is remarkable that they should inter the entire
bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer up to their
gods, other animals and vegetables; but are far from being
attentive to the condition of the places, where they celebrate
those solemn rites; most of their morais being in a ruinous
state, and showing manifest tokens of neglect. The people of
the case,
VOL. I.
Tt

330
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Atooi, again, bury both their common dead, and their human
sacrifices, as at Tongataboo; but they resemble those of Ota-
heite, in offering vegetables and animals to their gods, and in
the neglected state of their religious places.
The taboo also prevails in Atooi, in its full extent, and
apparently with greater strictness than even at Tongataboo.
For the natives here always, asked with great eagerness,
and
with indications of a fear of offending, whether any parti-
cular thing, which they desired to see, or we were unwilling
to show, was taboo, or (as they pronounced the word) tafoo?
The maia raa, or prohibited articles at the Society islands,
though undoubtedly the same thing, did not appear to be so
rigorously observed by them, except with regard to the dead;
respecting whom we thought them more superstitious than
any of the others were. Theşe, however, are circumstances
concerning which we cannot pretend to speak decisively; and
we shall only observe, to show the similitude in other points
connected with religion, that the tahounas, or priests, seem to
be as numerous here as at the other islands.
But whatever resemblance we might discover between the
general manners of the inhabitants of Atooi and those of
Otaheite, these were less striking than the similarity of lan-
guage. Indeed, the languages of both places may be said to
be almost entirely the same. The people of Atooi, in general,
have neither the strong guttural pronunciation of the New
Zealanders, nor that smaller degree of it, which also dis-
tinguishes the Friendly islanders; and they have not only
adopted the soft mode of the Otaheiteans, in avoiding harsh
sounds, but the whole idiom of their language; making use
of the same affixes and suffixes to their words, and the same
measure and cadence to their songs; at first hearing, indeed,
a stranger may perceive some disagreement; but it should be
considered, that the natives of Otaheite, from their frequent
connexions with the English, had learned, in some measure,
to adapt themselves to our imperfect knowledge of their lan-
guages, by using the most common and even corrupted ex-
pressions in conversation with us; whereas, when they talked
with each other, and used the several parts necessary to pro-
priety of speech, they were hardly at all understood by those
among us, who had made the greatest progress in the know-
ledge of their vocabulary. A list of words was collected at
Atooi, by the indefatigable Mr. Anderson, who embraced
every opportunity of rendering our voyage useful to those
who amuse themselves in tracing the emigrations of the va-
rious tribes that have peopled the globe, by the most convin-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
331
cing of all arguments, that drawn from the coincidence of
language.
How widely has this nation diffused itself, in so many
de-
tached islands, so far distant from each other, in every quar-
ter of the Pacific ocean! We find it from New Zealand in
the south, as far as the Sandwich islands to the northward;
and in another direction, from Easter island to the New
Hebrides; that is, over an extent of sixty degrees of latitude,
or three thousand six hundred miles, north and south; and
eighty three degrees of longitude, or four thousand nine hun-
dred and eighty miles, east and west! How much further,
in either of those directions, its colonies reach, is not known;
but, from what we are already acquainted with, we are au-
thorised in pronouncing it to be the most extensive nation
upon earth, though perhaps, not the most numerous.
If the Sandwich islands had been discovered at an early
period, by the Spaniards, they would doubtless have availed
themselves of so excellent a situation, and have made use of
Atooi, or some other of the islands, as a place of refresh-
ment for the ships, that sail annually between Manilla and
Acapulco. They lie almost midway between the last mention-
ed place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present
their only port in traversing this vast ocean; and it would not
have been a week's sail out of their ordinary route, to have
touched at them. An acquaintance with the Sandwich isles
would also have been equally favourable to our Buccaneers;
who have sometimes passed from the coast of America to
the Ladrones, with a stock of provisions and water scarcely
adequate to the support of life. Here they might always have
met with a plentiful supply, and have been within a month's
sail of the very port of California, which the Manilla ship is
obliged to make. How happy would lord Anson have been,
and what difficulties would he have avoided, had he known
that there was a cluster of islands half way between America
and Tinian, where all his wants might have been effectually
relieved!

A VOYAGE
TO
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK IV. CONTINUED
Curious Marine Phoenomena-Arrival at Nootka Sound-Intercourse withi
the natives- Description of their persons-Their Colour-Common
Dress and Ornaments-Occasional Dresses and monstrous Decorations
of wooden Masks-Their General Dispositions-Songs-Musical Ins-
truments-Their Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals-Man-
ner of Building their Houses-Their Furniture and Utensils-Wood-
en Images-Employments-Food, and Manner of preparing it--Wea-
pons- Manufactures and Mechanic Arts--Carving and Painting-Ca-
noes-Implements for Fishing and Hunting---Iron Tools, and remarks
on their Method of procuring that Metal.
-
The Discovery having joined us, we stood away to the
northward, with a gentle gale from the east. The tides are
so inconsiderable at the Sandwich islands that, with the great
surf breaking against the shore, it was difficult, at all times,
to know whether we had high or low water, or whether it
ebbed or flowed. On the south side of Atooi, a current gene-
rally set to the westward or north-westward. But, when
we were at anchor off Oneeheow, we found a current setting
nearly northwest and southeast; six hours each way. This
was doubtless a regular tide, and the flood appeared to come
from the northwest.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
333
But, to avoid digression, on Saturday the 7th of February,
we were in the latitude of 29° north, and in the longitude of
200° east, the wind veering to southeast. We steered north-
east and east till the 12th, when the wind had veered round
to northeast, and east-northeast. We then tacked and stood
to the northward, being in the latitude of 309 north, and in
the longitude of 2060 15' east. In this advanced latitude and
even in the winter season, we had only begun to feel a sen-
sation of cold in the mornings and evenings; a proof of the
equal and durable influence of the heat of the sun, at all times
to 30° on each side the line. After that, the disproportion is
known to become very great. This must be principally at-
tributed to the direction of the sun's rays, independant of the
bare distance, which is not equal to the effect. On Thursday
the 19th of February, the wind veered to southeast, and we
were again enabled to steer to the east, inclining a little to
the north. On the 25th we reached the latitude of 429
50', and the longitude of 2198 ; when we began to meet with
the rock weed, mentioned in lord Anson's voyage, by the
name of sea-leek, which is generally seen by the Manilla
ships. Sometimes a piece of wood appeared; but if we had
not known that we were near the continent of North America,
we might have supposed, from the few signs of vicinity of
land that we had seen, that we were not within some thou-
sand leagues of any. Since we left the Sandwich islands, we
had hardly beheld a bird or any other oceanic animal.
On the first of March, we had a calm day, which was suc-
ceeded by a wind from the north, with which we stood to
the east, intending to make land. We ought to have been
near it, according to the charts. Such moderate and mild
weather appeared to us extraordinary, when we were so far
north, and so near an extensive continent, at this time of the
year. The season must have been remarkably mild, for Sir
Francis Drake met with very severe cold in this latitude,
even in the month of June.* Viscaino, indeed, who was in
the same part of the world, in the depth of winter, hardly
takes notice of the cold, and mentions a ridge of snowy
mountains, on this coast, as something extraordinary.t
It is a singular circumstance, that we should meet with so
few birds, compared to those we saw in the same latitudes,
to the south of the line. This must either proceed from a
* See Sir Francis Drake's Voyage, in Campbell's Edition of Harris, vol.
i. p. 18.
# Vanega's Hist. of California, vol. ii. p. 229.
a

334
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
scarcity of them, or from a deficiency of resting places.
Hence it may be concluded, that in the southern hemisphere,
beyond 400, the species are much more numerous and the
islands more plentifully scattered, than any where near that
latitude, between the coast of California and Japan.
On the morning of the 2d, during a calm, part of the sea
appeared to be covered with a kind of slime, and some small
sea animals were seen swimming about. Those which were
most conspicuous, were of the gelatinous kind, almost globu-
lar; a smaller sort had a white or shining appearance, and
were in great abundance. Some of the latter were put into
a glass cup, with some salt water; and when in a prone situ-
ation, they appeared like small scales or pieces of silver.
When they swam about, which they did with equal ease in
various directions, they emitted the brightest colours of the
most valuable gems, according to their position respecting
the light; at one time they appeared pellucid, at another, dis-
playing the various tints of blue, from a sapphirine to a vio-
let, mixed with a kind of ruby, and glowing with sufficient
strength to illuminate the glass and water. When the vessel
was held to the strongest light, the tints appeared most vivid;
but almost vanished when the animals subsided to the bot-
tom, and they had then a brownish appearance. By candle-
light, the colour was principally, a beautiful pale green, with
a kind of burnished gloss; and in the dark it faintly exhib-
ited a glowing fire.
They are a new species of oniscus, and were called by
Mr. Anderson, oniscus fulgens; being supposed to be an
animal that contributes to that lucid appearance, often obser-
ved at sea, in the night. Two large birds settled this day,
on the water, near the ship. One was the procellaria maxima;
and the other, of little more than half the magnitude of the
former, appeared to be of the albatross kind. It was larger
than a sea-gull, but resembled it in other respects. About
noon, on the 6th, we beheld two seals, and several whales;
and early the next morning, the long expected coast of New
Albion* was seen, at the distance of ten or twelve leagues,
extending from northeast to southeast. At noon, we were
in the latitude of 449 33' north, and in the longitude of 2359
20' east, and the land about eight leagues distant.
We had now seventy-three fathoms water, over a muddy
bottom, and found ninety fathoms about a league farther off.
The land, which was of a moderate height, appeared to be
So named by Sir Francis Drake.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
335
diversified with hills and vallies, and principally covered with
wood. No very striking object, however, presented itself,
except an high hill, with a flat summit, which bore east from
us at noon. The land formed a point at the northern extreme
which captain Cook named Cape Foul-weather, from the ex-
ceeding bad weather we afterwards met with.
After variable light airs and calms, at eight o'clock in the
evening of the 7th, a breeze sprung up at southwest. We
stood to the northwest, under an easy sail, intending to
range along the coast at day-light. But, the next morning,
at four, the wind having shifted to northwest, it blew in
squalls, with rain. Till near ten o'clock, our course was
northeast; but not being able to make any progress on this
tack, and seeing nothing that had the appearance of an har-
bour, we tacked, and stood off southwest. Cape Foul.
weather, at this time, bore northeast by north, distant about
eight leagues.
In the evening of the 8th, the wind veered to the north-
west, with squalls, hail, and sleet; and, the weather being
hazy and thick, we stood ont to sea till about noon the next
day, when we stood in again for the land, which we saw at
two in the afternoon, bearing east-northeast. In the evening,
the wind veered more to the west, and the weather grew
worse, which obliged us to tack and stand off till about four
the next morning, when we stood in again. In the afternoon,
at four, we discovered the land, which, at six, was about eight
leagues distant. Here we tacked, and sounded, but could
not reach the ground with a line of one hundred and sixty
fathoms. We stood off till near midnight, and then stood in
again. At half past six, the next morning, we were about
three leagues from the land, Seeing nothing like a harbour,
and the weather continuing unsettled, we tacked and stretched
off southwest, having then fifty-five fathoms water.
The land which we approached, when we tacked, is mo-
derately high, but in many places, it rises still higher within.
It is diversified with hills and rising grounds, many of which
are covered with tall straight trees; and others, which were
not so high, grew in spots, like clumps or coppices; but the
spaces between, and the sid
and the sides of the rising grounds, were
clear.
Though, perhaps, as a summer prospect, this might be
very agreeable, yet, at this season, it had an uncomfortable
appearance, the bare grounds along the coast being covered
with snow, which seemed to lie in abundance between the
hills and rising grounds; and in many places, towards the

336
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
very low.
sea, had, at a distance, the appearance of white cliffs. On
the rising grounds, the snow was thinner spread; and farther
inland, there seemed to be none at all. Hence it might, per-
haps, be concluded that the snow which we had seen towards
the sea, had fallen the preceding night, which was indeed,
the coldest we had experienced since our arrival on that coast;
and a kind of sleet sometimes fell.
The coast appeared almost straight in every part, not hav-
ing any opening or inlet, and terminated in a kind of white
sandy beach; though it was imagined by some on board, that
such
appearance was owing to the snow. Each extreme of
the land shot out into a point; the northern one was that
which we had seen on the 7th, and therefore captain Cook
called it Cape Perpetua. Its latitude is 44° 6' north, and its
longitude 235° 52 east. The southern extreme the commo-
dore named Cape Gregory. It lies in the latitude of 43°
30' and in the longitude of 235° 57' east. This point is ren-
dered remarkable, by the land of it rising immediately from
the sea, to a tolerable height, and that on each side of it is
low. We stood off till almost one in the afternoon, and
then tacked and stood in, hoping, in the night, to have the
wind off from the land. We were, however, mistaken, for
at five o'clock, it veered to the west and southwest, which
induced us once more to stand out to sea.
Cape Perpetua now bore northeast by north; and the far-
thest land to the south of cape Gregory, bore south by east,
distant about ten or twelve leagues. Its latitude will there-
fore be 43° 10', and its longitude 235° 55' east. This is
nearly the situation of cape Blanco, discovered the 19th of
January, 1603, by Martine d'Aguilar. It is remarkable that
in this very latitude, geographers have placed a large en-
trance or strait, ascribing the discovery of it to the same na-
vigator; whereas nothing more is mentioned in his voyage,
than his having discovered a large river in this situation,
which he would have entered, but was hindered by the cur-
rents.
The wind was now very unsettled, and blew in squalls,
with snow showers. At midnight, it shifted to west-north-
.
west, and presently increased to a very hard gale, with heavy
squalls, and sleet or snow. We had not a choice now, but
were obliged to stretch to the southward, to get clear of the
This was done under more sail than the ships could
bear with safety, but it was absolutely necessary to avoid the
more imminent danger of being forced on shore. This gale
abated at eight o'clock in the morning of the 13th, and then
coast.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
337
а
a
a
we stood in again for the land. The wind remained at west
and northwest. Storms, breezes, and calms, alternately suc-
ceeded each other, till the morning of the 21st, when a breeze
sprung up at southwest. This being accompanied with fair
weather, we steered northeasterly, hoping to fall in with the
land, beyond where we had been tossed about for the pre-
ceding fortnight. In the evening, the wind shifted to the
westward, and the next morning, about eight o'clock, we be-
held the land at the distance of about nine leagues. Our la-
titude was now 47° 5' north, and our longitude 235° 10' east.
We stood to the north, with a fine breeze, till near seven
in the evening, when we tacked in order to wait for daylight.
We were now in forty-eight fathoms water, and four leagues
from the land, extending from north to southeast; and a small
round hill, which we supposed to be an island, bore north
three quarters east, at the distance of about six or seven
leagues. It seemed to be of a tolerable height, and could but
just be seen from the deck.
There appeared to be a small opening between this sup-
posed island, and the northern extreme of the land; we there-
fore entertained some hopes of finding an harbour; but these
hopes gradually vanished as we drew nearer; and at length,
we were almost convinced, that the opening was closed by
low land. The commodore, for this reason, named the point
of land to the north of it, Cape Flattery. Its latitude is 48
15' north, and its longitude 235° 3' east.
All the land upon this part of the coast, is of a pretty equal
height, is principally covered with wood, and has a very fer-
tile appearance.
In this very latitude, geographers have
placed the pretended strait of Juan de Feca. But nothing of
that kind presented itself to our view, nor is it probable that
any such thing ever existed. We stood to the southward till
midnight, and then tacked, and with a gentle breeze at
southwest steered to the northwest, intending at day-light to
stand in for the land. But, before that time, we had a very
hard gale, with rain, right on shore; instead, therefore, of
running in for the land, we endeavoured to get an offing, or,
at least, to preserve that which we had already got. The
southwest wind, however, did not continue long, for it veered
again to the west before night.
Thus were we perpetually encountering with strong west
and northwest winds. In an evening, the wind would some-
times become moderate, and veer southward; but this was a
certain prelude to a storm, which blew the hardest at south-
south east, and was generally accompanied with rain and sleet.
VOL. I.
U u

338
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
In the course of six hours, it was usually succeeded by a gate
from the northwest, which introduced fair weather. About
nine o'clock in the morning, of Sunday the 29th, we again
saw the land, the nearest part about six leagues distant. We
were now in the latitude of 49° 29' north, and in the longi-
tude of 232° 29' east.
The face of the country was very different from that of the
parts which we had before seen; numbers of lofty mountains
presented themselves to our view, whose summits were co-
vered with snow. The vallies between them, and the land
towards the coast, were covered with high straight trees, that
appeared like a vast forest. A low point was formed, at the
southeast extreme of the land, off which are several breakers,
occasioned by some sunken rocks. It was therefore called
Point Breakers. Its latitude is 49° 15' north, and its longi-
tude 233° 20' east.
The latitude of the other extreme is
about 50°, and the longitude 232º. This last was named
Woody Point. It is high
It is high land, and projects to the south-
West.
Between these two points, a large bay is formed, which the
commodore called Hope Bay; hoping, as he said, to find in
it a good harbour; and the event proved that he was not mis-
taken. As we approached the coast, we saw the appearance
of two inlets; one of which was in the northwest, and the
other in the northeast corner of the bay. We bore up for
the latter, and passed some breakers about a league from the
shore. Half a league without them, we had nineteen and
twenty fathoms water; but after we had passed them, the depth
;
increased to fifty fathoms; and farther in, the ground was un-
fathomable with the greatest length of line.
Though appearances were in our favour, we were not yet
certain that there were any inlets; but, being in a deep bay,
captain Cook resolved to anchor in order to endeavour to get
some water, which we began to be in much need of. As we
advanced, however, the existence of the inlet no longer re-
mained doubtful. About five o'clock, when we reached the
west point of it, we were becalmed for some time. In this
situation, the commodore ordered all the boats to be hoisted
out, in order to tow the ships in. Presently a fresh breeze
sprung up at northwest, with which we stretched up into an
arm of the inlet, which ran in to the northeast.
were again becalmed, and found it necessary to anchor in
eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the land as to be able
to reach it with a hauser. The Discovery was becalmed be-
Here we
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
339
fore she got within the arm, when she anchored in seventy
fathoms water.
As soon as we approached the inlet, we perceived the coast
to be inhabited; and three canoes came off to the ship, at the
place where we were first becalmed; in one of which were
two men, in another six, and in the other ten. Advancing
pretty near us, a person stood up in one of the two last, and
spoke for a considerable time, inviting us, as we supposed by
his gestures, to go ashore; and, at the same time, continued
strewing handfuls of feathers towards us. Some of his com-
panions also threw a red powder in the same manner.
The person who was the orator upon this occasion, was
clothed with the skin of some animal, and held something in
each hand which rattled as he shook it. At length, grown
weary with his repeated exhortations, of which we could not
comprehend a word, he became quiet; and the others, in their
turn, had something to say to us; but their speeches were
neither so long, nor so vehement as that of the other.
The hair of two or three of these people was strewed over
with small white feathers; and that of others, with large ones,
stuck into different parts.
The tumultuous noise having ceased, they lay at a small
distance from the ship, conversing together with much ease
and composure, without showing the least distrust or surprise.
Some of them rose, occasionally, and said something aloud
after the manner of their first harangues; and one, in parti-
,
cular, sung a most agreeable air, accompanied with a great
degree of melody and softness; the word haela being frequenta
ly repeated as the burden of the song.
A breeze springing up soon after, brought us closer to the
shore, when the canoes began to visit us in great numbers;
having had, at one time, no less than thirty-two of th m about
the ship, containing from three to seven or eight persons
each, and of both sexes. Several of them also stood up
and
spake aloud, using the same gestures as our first visiters.
One canoe particularly attracted our observation, by a pecu-
liar head, which had a bird's eye, and an enormous large
beak, planted on it. The person who was in it, and who ap-
peared to be a chief, was equally remarkable for his singular
appearance; having a large quantity of feathers hanging from
his head, and being painted or smeared in a very extraordi-
nary manner. In his hand he had a carved bird of wood, of
the size of a pigeon, with which he often rattled, like the
person before-mentioned, and was equally vociferous in his
harangue, which was accompanied with many expressive ges-

340
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tures. Though our visiters were so peaceable, that they could
not be suspected of any hostile intention, not any of them
could be prevailed upon to come on board. They
were very
ready, however, to part with any thing they had, and re-
ceived whatever we offered them in exchange; but were more
solicitous after iron, than any of our other articles of com-
merce; appearing to be no strangers to the use of that valu-
able metal.
We were followed by many of the canoes to our anchor-
ing-place; and a group, consisting of about ten or a dozen of
them, continued along-side the Resolution the greatest part
of the night. Hence we flattered ourselves, that we were so
comfortably situated, as to be able to get all our wants sup-
plied, and forget the delays and hardships we had experi-
enced, in almost a constant succession of adverse winds and
tempestuous weather, ever since our arrival upon this coast.
Having happily found such excellent shelter for our ships,
in an inlet whose coast appeared to be inhabited by an inoffen-
sive race of people, we lost no time, after coming to anchor,
in searching for a commodious harbour, where we might be
stationed during our continuance in the Sound. Upon this
service, captain Cook sent three armed boats, under the com-
mand of Mr. King; and went himself, in a small boat, on the
same business. He had no difficulty in finding what he
wanted; for on the northwest of the arm, and at a small dis-
tance from the ships, he found a convenient snug cove, per-
fectly adapted to our purpose. Mr. King was also successful,
and found a still better harbour, lying on the northwest side
of the land. It would, however, have required more time to
take the ships thither, than to the cove where the captain had
been; therefore his choice was determined in favour of the
latter situation. But, apprehending that we could not trans-
port our ships to it, and moor them properly, before night
had overtaken us, he thought it prudent to continue where we
were till the next morning.
Plenty of canoes filled with the inhabitants, were about
the ships the whole day; and a reciprocal trade was com-
menced between us, which was conducted with the strictest
harmony and integrity on both sides. Their articles of com-
merce were the skins of various animals; such as bears, sea-
otters, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, martins, and pole-cats.
They also produced garments made of skins; and another
kind of clothing, fabricated from the bark of a tree, or a plant
resembling hemp. Besides these articles, they had bows, ar-
TOWS,
and spears; fish-hooks, and various kinds of instruments;

Plate 26.
き
​AVIEW of SNUG CORNER COVE in PRINCE WILLIAMS SOUND
mic
OF
1


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
341
wooden vizors, representing horrid figures; a sort of woollen
stuff; carved work; beads and red ochre: also several little
ornaments of thin brass and iron, resembling an horse shoe,
which they wear pendant at their noses. They had likewise
several pieces of iron fixed to handles, somewhat resembling
chissels. From their being in possession of these metals, it
was natural for us to infer, that they must either have been
visited before by persons of some civilized nation, or had
connexions with those on their own continent, who had some
communication with them.
Among all the articles, however, which they exposed to sale,
the most extraordinary were human skulls, and hands, with
some of the flesh remaining on them, which they acknow-
ledged they had been feeding on; and some of them, indeed,
bore evident marks of their having been upon the fire. From
this circumstance, it was but too apparent, that the horrid
practice of devouring their enemies, is practised here, as much
as at New-Zealand, and other South-sea islands. For the
various articles they brought, they received in exchange,
knives, chissels, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, pieces of iron
and tin, or any kind of metal. They had not much inclination
for glass-beads, and rejected every kind of cloth.
The next day was employed in hauling the ships into the
cove, where they were moored. We found, on heaving up
the anchor, notwithstanding the great depth of the water, that
rocks were at the bottom. These had greatly injured the
cable, as well as the hausers that were carried out to warp
the ship into the cove; consequently the whole bottom was
strewed with rocks. The ship was now become very leaky
in her upper works; the carpenters were therefore ordered to
caulk her, and to repair any other defects they might dis-
cover.
In the course of this day (the 31st of March) the news of
our arrival brought vast numbers of the natives about our
ships. At one time we counted above a hundred canoes,
each of which, on an average, had five people on board; few
containing less than three; many having seven, eight, or nine;
and one was manned with seventeen. Many of these were
new visiters, which we discovered by their orations and ce-
remonies when they approached the ships.
If they, at first, had apprehended, that we meant to be hos-
tile, their fears were now removed; for they ventured on
board the ships, and mixed with our people with the utmost
freedom and familiarity. We discovered, however, by this
intercourse, that they were as fond of pilfering as any we had

342
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
met with during our voyage: and they were much more mis-
chievous than any of the other thieves we had found; for,
having sharp instruments in their possession, they could, the
instant that our backs were turned, cut a hook from a tackle,
or a piece of iron from a rope.
Besides other articles, we lost several hooks in this man-
ner, one of which weighed between twenty and thirty pounds.
They stripped our boats of every morsel of iron that was
worth taking away, though some of our men were always left
in them as a guard. They were, indeed, so dexterous in ef-
fecting their purposes, that one fellow would contrive to
amuse our people at one end of the boat, while another was
forcing off the iron-work at the other. If an article that had
been stolen, was immediately missed, the thief was easily de-
tected, as they were fond of impeaching each other. But the
prize was always reluctantly given up by the guilty person;
and sometimes compulsive means were obliged to be exercis-
ed for that purpose.
Our ships being safely moored, we proceeded the next
day to other necessary business. The observatories were
taken ashore, and placed upon a rock on one side of the cove,
not far from the Resolution. A party of men was ordered
to cut wood, and clear a place for watering. Having plenty
of pine-trees here, others were employed in brewing spruce-
beer. The forge was also erected to make the necessary
iron-work for repairing the fore-mast, which had one of the
bibs defective, and was otherwise incomplete.
We were daily visited by a considerable number of the na-
tives; and, among them, we frequently saw new faces. They
had a singular mode of introducing themselves on their first
appearance. They paddled, with their utmost strength and
activity, round both the ships; a chief, all this time, stand-
ing up with a spear in his hand, and speaking, or rather
bawling, most vociferously.
Sometimes the face of this orator was covered with a mask,
representing either a human countenance, or that of some
other animal; and, instead of a spear, he had a kind of a rat-
tle in his hand. Having made this ceremonious circuit round
the ship, they would come alongside, and then begin to traf-
fic with us. Frequently, indeed, they would first entertain
us with a song, in which their whole company joined, and
produced a very agreeable harmony. During these visits,
our principal care was to guard against their thievery.
We had, however, in the morning of the 4th of April, a
very serious alarm. Our party, who were employed on shore

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
343
in cutting wood and filling water, observed, that the natives,
in all quarters, were arming themselves in the best manner
they were able; and that those who had not proper weapons,
were collecting sticks and stones. Hearing this, we thought
it necessary to arm also; but being resolved to act upon the
defensive, the commodore ordered all our workmen to repair
to the rock, on which our observatories had been placed, leav.
ing the supposed enemy in possession of the ground where
they had assembled, which was within about a hundred
yards of the Resolution's stern.
Our danger, however, was only imaginary; for these hos-
tile preparations were directed against a body of their own
countrymen, who were advancing to attack them. Our friends
of the Sound, perceiving our apprehensions, exerted their
best endeavours to convince us that this was really the case.
We saw they had people looking out on both sides of the cove,
and canoes were frequently despatched between them and the
main body. The adverse party, on board of about a dozen
large canoes, at length drew up in a line of battle, off the
south point of the cove, a negotiation for the restoration of
peace having been commenced. In conducting the treaty,
several people in canoes passed between the two parties, and
some debates ensued. At length the matter in dispute ap-
peared to be adjusted; but the strangers were not permitted
to approach the ships, nor to have any intercourse or dealings
with us.
a
;
We were probably the occasion of the quarrel; the stran-
gers, perhaps, insisting on having a right of sharing in the
advantage of a trade with us; and our first friends resolving
to engross us entirely to themselves. We were convinced
of this on many other occasions; nay, even among those who
lived in the Sound, the weaker were often obliged to submit
to the stronger party, and were plundered of every thing,
without even attempting to make any resistance.
In the afternoon we resumed our work, and, the next day,
rigged the foremast; the head of which not being large enough
for the cap, the carpenter was ordered to fill
up
the vacant
space. In examining the state of the masthead for this
pur-
pose, both cheeks were discovered to be rotten; insomuch
that there was not a possibility of repairing them. We were
therefore obliged to get the mast out, and to supply it with
new ones.
Thus when almost ready for sea, all our work was to be
done over again, and an additional repair was necessary to
be undertaken, which would require much time to be com-

344
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
pleted. It was, however, fortunate, that these defects should
be discovered, when we were so commodiously situated, as
to be able to procure the materials that were requisite. For,
in the cove where our ships lay, there were some small sea-
soned trees, perfectly adapted for our purpose; and two new
cheeks were immediately made from one of these. In the
morning of the 7th of April, having got the foremast out, we
hauled it ashore, and the carpenters were sent to work upon
it. Some of our lower standing rigging being much decayed,
the commodore embraced the opportunity, while the foremast
was repairing of ordering a new set of mainrigging to be fit-
ted, and the forerigging to be improved.
From our putting into the Sound, till the 7th of April, the
weather had been remarkably fine; but, in the morning of the
8th, the wind blew fresh at southeast, accompanied with hazy
weather and rain; it increased in the afternoon, and in the
evening it blew extremely hard. It came in heavy squalls,
right into the cove, from over the high land on the opposite
shore; and though the ships were well moored, they were in
a dangerous situation.
Though these tempestuous blasts succeeded each other
quickly, they were of short duration, and, in the intervals, we
had a perfect calm. Another misfortune now befel us. On
board the Resolution, the mizen was the only mast that now
remained rigged, with its topmast up. The former was too
defective to support the latter during these squalls, and gave
way at the head, under the rigging. The gale abated about
eight o'clock, but the rain continued, almost without inter-
mission, for several days: during which time, a tent was er-
rected over the foremast, that the carpenters might be ena-
bled to proceed in their labours with some degree of con-
venience.
The natives were not dicouraged, by this bad weather,
from making us daily visits; and, in our situation, such visits
were very acceptable to us. They frequently brought us a
supply of fish, when we were unable to catch any
hook
and line, and we had not a convenient place to draw a net.
The fish they brought us were small cod, and a small kind
of bream, or sardine. On the 11th the mainrigging was fixed
and got over head, notwithstanding the rainy weather; and,
the next day, we took down the mizenmast, the head of which
was so rotten that it dropped off in the slings.
We received a vist, in the evening, from a tribe of natives
whom we had not seen before; and who, in general, made a
better appearance than our old friends. The commodore
with a
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
345
a
conducted them into the cabin, but there was not an object
that demanded their attention; all our novelties were looked
on with indifference, except by a very few, who showed a
certain degree of curiosity. The next day, a party of our
men went into the woods, and cut down a tree, of which a
mizenmast was to be made. The day after it was conveyed
to the place where the carpenters were at work upon the fore-
mast. The wind in the evening, veered to the southeast,
and blew a very hard gale, attended with rain, till eight
o'clock the next morning; at which time it abated, and veer-
ed again to the west.
The foremast being now finished, we hauled it along side;
but, on account of the bad weather, could not get it in till the
afternoon. We were expeditious in rigging it, while the car-
penters were employed on the mizenmast on shore. On the
16th, when they had made considerable progress in it, they
discovered that the tree on which they were at work, was
wounded, owing, it was imagined, to some accident in cut-
ting it down. It therefore became necessary to procure
another tree out of the woods, on which occasion, all hands
were employed about half a day.
During these operations, many of the natives were about
the ships, gazing on with an expressive surprise, which, from
their general inattention, we did not expect. A party of
strangers in seven or eight canoes, came into the cove on the
18th, and after looking at us for some time, retired. We
apprehended that our old friends, who at this time, were more
numerous about us than our new visiters, would not suffer
them to have any dealings with us. It was evident, indeed,
that the neighbouring inhabitants engrossed us entirely to
themselves; and that they carried on a traffic with more
distant tribes, in those articles they had received from us:
for they frequently disappeared for four or five days togeth-
er, and returned with fresh cargoes of curiosities and skins.
Such of the natives as visited us daily, were the most ben-
eficial to us; for after disposing of their trifles, they employ-
ed themselves in fishing, and we always partook of what they
caught. We also procured from them a considerable quantity
of good animal oil, which they brought to us in bladders.
Some, indeed, attempted to cheat us, by mixing water with
the oil; and once or twice, they so far imposed upon us, as
to fill their bladders with water only. But it was better for
us to wink at these impositions, than suffer them to produce
a quarrel; for our articles of traffic chiefly consisted of trifles,
and we found it difficult to produce a constant supply even of
a
VOL. I.
XX

346
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
these: Beads, and such like toys, of which we had some re-
maining, were not highly estimated. Metal was principally
demanded by our visitors; and brass had now supplanted iron,
being sought after, with such eagerness, that before we left
the Sound, hardly a bit of it was to be found in the ships,
except what constituted a part of our necessary instruments.
Suits of clothes were stripped of their buttons; bureaus of
their furniture; kettles, canisters, and candlesticks, all went
to rack; so that our American friends procured from us
a greater variety of things, than any other nation we had
visited.
Having had a fortnight's bad weather, Sunday the 19th
being a fair day we embraced the opportunity of getting up
the top-masts and yards, and of fixing up the rigging. Most
of our heavy work being now finished, the commodore set
out the next morning to survey the sound; and going first to
the west point he discovered a large village, and before it, a
very snug harbour, with from nine to four fathoms water.
The inhabitants of this village, who were numerous, many
of whom the commodore was no stranger to, received him
with great courtesy, every one pressing him to enter his
apartment; for several families have habitations under the
same roof. He politely accepted the invitations, and the hos-
pitable friends whom he visited, testified every mark of civi-
lity and respect.
Women were employed, in many of these habitations, in
making dresses of the bark or plant already mentioned, and
executed their business, much like the inhabitants of New-
Zealand. Others were busy in opening sardines; large shoals
of which we have seen brought on shore, and measured out
to several people, who carried them home, where they per-
formed the operation of curing them, which is done by smoke-
drying them. They are hung up on small rods; at first, about
a foot over the fire; they are then removed higher and higher,
to make room for others. When dried, thy are closely pack-
ed in bales, and the bales covered with mats. Thus they are
preserved till they are wanted; and they are not unpleasant
food. They also cure cod and other large fish in the same
manner; but these are sometimes dried in the open air.
Leaving this village, the commodore prceeded up the west
side of the Sound. For near three miles he saw several
small islands, so situated as to form some convenient harbours,
the depths being from thirty to seven fathoms. About two
leagues within the Sound, on the same side, an arm runs in

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
347
the direction of north-northwest, and another in the same di-
rection about two miles further.
About a mile above the second arm, he found the ruins of
a village. The framings of the houses remained standing, but
the boards or roofs were taken away. Behind this deserted
village is a small plain, covered with the largest pine-trees
that the commodore had ever seen. This was indeed singu-
lar, as most of the elevated ground on this side of the Sound
appeared rather naked.
Passing from this place to the east side of the sound, cap-
tain Cook found what he had before imagined, that it was
an island under which the ships lay; and that many smaller
ones lay scattered on the west side of it. Upon the main land
opposite the north end of our island, the commodore observ-
ed a village, and landed there; but he was not so politely re-
ceived by the inhabitants, as by those of the other village he
had visited. This cold reception was occasioned by one surly
chief, who would not suffer the commodore to enter their
houses, but followed him wherever he went; making expres-
sive signs that he was impatient for him to be gone; captain
Cook attempted, but in vain, to sooth him with presents; for
though he did not refuse them, he continued the same kind
of behaviour. But notwithstanding this treatment from the
inhospitable chief, some of the young women expeditiously
apparelled themselves in their best, assembled in a body, and
gave us a hearty welcome to the village, by joining in an
agreeable song. Evening now drawing on, captain Cook pro-
ceeded for the ships round the north end of the island.
When he returned on board he was informed that in his
absence, some strangers in two or three large canoes had
made a visit to the ships; from whom our people understood
by signs, that they had come from the southeast. They
brought with them several garments, skins, and other articles
which they bartered for some of ours. But the most remark-
able circumstance was, that two silver table spoons were pur-
chased of them by our people, which appeared to be of Spa-
nish manufacture. They were worn round the neck of one
of these visters, by way of ornament.
On the 21st, the mizenmast was got in and rigged, and the
carpenters ordered to make a new fore-topmast, to replace
that which had been carried away. A number of strangers
visited us about eight o'clock the next morning, in twelve
or thirteen canoes. They came from the southward; and when
they had turned the point of the cove, they drew up in a bo-
dy, where they remained about half an hour, at the distance

348
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
We now per-
of two hundred yards from the ships. We imagined at first,
they were afraid to approach; but in this we were mistaken
for they were only making preparations for an introductory
ceremony.
At length they advanced towards the ships, all standing up
in their canoes, and began to sing. Some of their songs were
slow and solemn, in which they were joined by the whole
body; others were in quicker time, and their notes were
regularly accompanied by the motions of their hands their
paddles beating in concert on the sides of the canoes; and
they at the same time, exhibited the most expressive ges-
tures. They remained silent for a few seconds, after the con-
clusion of each song, and then began again, frequently pro-
nouncing the word hooee as a kind of chorus.
Having thus favoured us with a specimen of their music,
with which we were highly entertained for half an hour, they
came nearer the ships and bartered with us.
ceived that some of our old friends from the Sound were
among them, who managed for the strangers in the traffic be-
tween us and them.
These visiters being gone, the captains Cook and Clerke
went with two boats to the village at the west point, where
captain Cook had been two days before, and had observed
that plenty of grass was to be had near it; and it was neces-
sary to get a supply of this for the few remaining goats and
sheep which were still on board. They experienced the same
welcome reception that captain Cook had met with before;
and soon after they were ashore the commodore ordered
some of his people to begin cutting; not imagining that the
natives would object to our furnishing ourselves with what
could not be of any use to them, though essentially necessary
for us. In this however, he was mistaken, for as soon as our
men began cutting the grass, some of the inhabitants would
not permit them to proceed, saying, 'makook, which signified
that we must buy it first.
The commodore, at this time, was in one of the houses; but
hearing of this, he repaired immediately to the field, where
he found about a dozen claimants at different parts of the
grass
that grew on the premises. The commodore treated with
them for it, and having complied with the terms of his pur-
chase, thought we had now full liberty to cut wherever we
pleased. Here he was again mistaken; for he had so liberally
paid the first pretended proprietors, that fresh demands were
made from others; so that it almost appeared that every single
blade of grass had a separate owner; and so many of them

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
349
were to be satisfied, that his pockets presently became empty.
.
When they were however, convinced he had nothing more to
give, they ceased to be importunate and we were permitted
to cut where we pleased, and as much as we pleased.
It is worthy of observation, that we never met with any
uncivilized nation, or tribe, who possessed such strict notions
of their having an exclusive property in the produce of their
country, as the inhabitants of this Sound. They even want-
ed our people to pay for the wood and water that were car-
ried on board. Had captain Cook been present when these
demands were made, he would doubtless have complied with
them; but our workmen thought differently, and paid little or
no attention to such claims. The natives thinking we were
determined to pay nothing, at length ceased to apply. But
they frequently took occasion to remind us, that their esteem
for us had induced them to make us a present of wood and
water.
While they remained at this village, Mr. Webber, who at-
tended the two captains thither, made a drawing of every
thing that was thought curious, both within doors and with-
out. This he was well enabled to do, as he had an excellent
opportunity of inspecting, narrowly, the construction of their
buildings, their furniture, and implements or utensils, as well
as the most striking peculiarities of the modes of living of
the inhabitants. Having, at length, completed all their ope-
rations at this village, the natives and the two captains took
a friendly leave of each other, and we returned to the ships
in the afternoon. The 23d, 24th, and 25th of April were
employed in preparing to put to sea; the sails were bent; the
observatories and other articles removed from the shore;
and both ships put into a proper condition for sailing.
Thus prepared, we intended to have put to sea on the
morning of the 26th, but having both wind and tide against
us, we were under a necessity of waiting till noon; when a
calm succeeded the south-west wind, and the tide, at the same.
time, turning in our favour, we towed the ships out of the
We had variable airs and calms till about four in the
afternoon, when a breeze sprung up, attended with thick
hazy weather.
The mercury in the barometer sunk uncommonly low, and
we had every appearance of an approaching storm from the
southward. In this situation captain Cook hesitated, for a
short time,(as night was then approaching), whether he should
sail immediately, or stay till the next morning. But his
anxiety to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing so
cove.

350
.
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
us.
to pay
good an opportunity of getting out of the Sound, operated
more strongly upon his mind than the apprehension of dan-
ger, and he resolved to put to sea.
We were attended by the natives till we were almost out of
the Sound; some in their canoes, and others on board the
ships. One of the chiefs, who had particularly attached him-
self to the commodore, was among the last who parted from
The commodore, a little time before he went, made him
a small present; for which he received, in return, a beaver-
,
skin of a much superior value. This occasioned him to make
some addition to his present, which pleased the chief so high-
ly, that he presented to the commodore the beaver-skin cloak
which he then wore, and of which he was particularly fond.
Struck with this instance of generosity, and wishing him
not to be a sufferer by his gratitude, captain Cook insisted
upon his acceptance of a new broad-sword, with a brass hilt,
with which he appeared greatly delighted. We were ear-
nestly importuned by the chief, and many of his countrymen,
them another visit; who, by way of inducement, pro-
mised to procure a large stock of skins.
King George's Sound was the appellation given by the com-
modore to this inlet, on our first arrival; but he was after-
wards informed that the natives called it Nootka. The en-
trance is in the east corner of Hope Bay; its latitude is 49",
33' north, and its longitude 233", 12' east. The east coast of
that bay is covered by a chain of sunken rocks; and near the
Sound, are some islands and rocks above water. We en-
tered the Sound between two rocky points, lying east-southeast,
and west north-west from each other, distant about four miles.
The Sound widens within these points, and extends in to the
north-ward at least four leagues.
A number of islands, of various sizes, appear in the mid-
dle of the Sound. The depth of water, not only in the mid-
dle of the Sound, but also close to some parts of its shore, is
from forty-seven to ninety fathoms, or more. Within its cir-
cuit, the harbours and anchoring-places are numerous. The
cove, where our ships anchored, is on the east side of the
Sound, and also on the east of the largest island. It is, in-
deed, covered from the sea, which is its principal recommen-
dation, for it is exposed to the south-east wind, which some-
times blows with great violence, and makes great devastation,
as was but too apparent in many places.
Upon the sea coast the land is tolerably high and level;
but, within the Sound, it rises into steep hills, which have an
xiniform appearance, ending in roundish tops, with sharp

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
351
a
ridges on their sides. Many of these hills are high, and
others are covered to their tops, with the thickest woods.
Some bare spots are to be seen on the sides of some of the
hills, but they are not numerous, though they sufficiently
shew the general rocky disposition of these hills. They have,
indeed, no soil upon them, except what has been produced
from rotten mosses and trees, of the depth of about two feet.
Their foundations are, indeed, nothing more than stupendous
rocks; which are of a gray or whitish cast when exposed to
the weather; but, when broken, are of a bluish gray
colour.
The rocky shores consist entirely of this; and the beaches of
the little coves in the Sound are composed of fragments of
it.
During our stay the weather nearly corrosponded with that
which we had experienced when we were off the coast. We
had fine clear weather, if the wind was between north and
west; but if more to the southward, hazy, accompanied with
rain. The climate appears to be infinitely milder than that
on the east coast of America, under the same parallel of lati-
tude. We perceived no frost in any of the low ground; but,
on the contrary, vegetation proceeded very briskly, for we
saw grass, at this time, upwards of a foot long.
The trees, of which the woods are principally composed,
are the Canadian pine, white cypress, and two or three other
sorts of pine. The two first are in the greatest abundance,
and, at a distance, resemble each other; though they are ea-
sily distinguished on a near view, the cypress being of a paler
green than the other.
In general, the trees grow here with
great vigour, and are of a large size. At this early season
of the year, we saw but little variety of other vegetable pro-
ductions.
About the rocks, and borders of the woods, we saw some
strawberry plants; and raspberry currant, and goose-berry
bushes, all in a flourishing state. There were also a few
black alder-trees; a species of sow-thistle; some crow's foot
with a fine crimson flower, and two sorts of anthericum. We
also met with some wild rose-bushes, just budding; some
young leeks, a small sort of grass, and some water-cresses,
besides a great abundance of andromeda. Within the woods
are two sorts of underwood shrubs, unknown to us, and some
mosses and ferns.
The season of the year did not permit us to acquire much
knowledge of the vegetables of this country; and it was im-
possible, from our situation, to learn much about its animals.
The want of water induced us to enter the Sound at first;
a

352 A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
and the accidents that happened there, though they obliged
us to stay longer than we intended, were unfavourable to our
acquiring any knowledge of this kind. It was absolutely ne-
cessary that every person should be employed in forward-
ing the necessary business of the ships; which was the prin-
cipal object, as the season was advancing, and the success of
the voyage depended upon their diligence in performing their
several tasks. Excursions of
any
kind
were, therefore, ne-
ver attempted.
Lying in a cove, on an island, all the animals that we saw
alive, were two or three racoons, martins, and squirrels:
some of our people, indeed, who landed on the continent, on
the south-east side of the Sound, saw the prints of a bear's
feet, not far from the shore. The only account, therefore,
that we can furnish of the quadrupeds, is taken from the
skins which we purchased of the inhabitants; and these were
sometimes so mutilated in the heads, tails, and paws, that we
could not even guess to what animals they belonged; though
others were either so perfect, or so well known, that they did
not admit of a doubt about them. The most common among
them were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. Bear-skins were
very plentiful, generally of a shining black colour, but not ve-
ry large. The deer skins were not so plentiful, and appear-
ed to belong to what the historians of Carolina call the fal-
low-deer; though Mr. Pennant distinguishes it by the name
of Virginian deer, and thinks it quite a different species from
Their foxes are numerous, and of several varieties;
the skins of some being yellow, with a black tip at the tail;
others of a reddish yellow intermixed with black; and others
of an ash colour, also intermixed with black.
When the skins were so mutilated as to admit of a doubt,
our people applied the name of fox or wolf indiscriminately.
At length, we met with an entire wolf's skin, which was gray.
Here is the common martin, the pine martin, and another of
a lighter brown colour. The ermine is also found in this
country, but is small, and not very common; its hair is not
remarkably fine, though the animal is entirely white, except
about an inch at the tip of the tail. The racoons and squir-
rels are such as are common, but the latter are not as large as
ours, and have a rusty colour extending the whole length of
the back.
We were sufficiently clear with regard to the animals al-
ready mentioned, but there were two others that we could
not, with any certainty, distinguish. One of them, we con-
cluded to be the elk or moose deer; and the other was con-
ours.
a


Plate 22
Shallus fe
W
ICH
OF
UNIL
3T
SD
EGE
CA
A SEA OTTERO

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
353
jectured to be the wild cat or lynx. Hogs, dogs, and goats
have not yet made their appearance in this place. Nor have
the natives any knowledge of our brown rats, to which they
applied the name they give to squirrels, when they saw them
on board the ships.
The sea animals near the coast, are whales, porpoises, and
seals; the latter from the skins we saw, seeming to be of the
common sort. The porpoise is the Phocena. Though the
sea otter is amphibious, we shall consider him as belonging
to this class as living principally in the water. We doubted,
for some time, whether the skins, which the natives sold us
for otter-skins, really belonged to that animal; but, a short
time before our departure, a whole one, just killed, was pur-
chased from some strangers, of which Mr. Webber made a
drawing. It was young, weighing only twenty-five pounds,
was of a glossy black colour, but many of the hairs being tipt
with white, gave it, at first sight, a grayish cast.
The face,
throat, and breast, were of a light brown, or yellowish white;
and, in many of the skins, that colour extended the whole
length of the belly. In each jaw it had six cutting teeth; two
in the lower jaw being exceeding small, and placed without,
at the base of the two in the middle. In these respects, it
differs from those found by the Russians, and also in the out.
er toes of the hind feet not being skirted with a membrane.
There also appeared a greater variety in colour, than is men-
tioned by those who describe the Russian sea otters. It is
most probable, that these changes of colour naturally take
place at the different gradations of life. The very young
ones had brown coarse hair, with a little fur underneath; but
those of the size of the animal just described, had a greater
quantity of that substance. After they have attained their
full growth, they lose the black colour, which is succeeded
by a deep brown. At that period, they have a greater quantity
of fine fur, and very few long hairs. Some, which we supposed
to be older, were of a chesnut brown; and we saw some few
skins that were of a perfect yellow. The fur of these crea-
tures is certainly finer than that of any other animal we know
of; consequently the discovery of this part of North Ame-
rica, where so valuable an article of commerce is to be pro-
cured, ought certainly to be considered as a matter of some
consequence.
Birds are far from being numerous here, and those that
are to be seen are remarkably shy, owing, perhaps, to their
being continually harassed by the natives, either to eat them,
or become possessed of their feathers to be worn as orna-
ху
VOL. I.

354
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
ments.
a
a
a
a
a
There are crows and ravens, not differing in the
least, from those in England: also a jay or magpie; the com-
mon wren, which is the only singing bird we heard; the Ca.
nadian thrush; the brown eagle, with a white head and tail;
a small species of hawk; a heron; and the large crested
American king fisher. There are also some that have not yet
been mentioned by those who have treated on natural his."
tory. The two first are a species of wood-peckers. One is
somewhat smaller than a thrush, of a black colour on the back,
having white spots on the wings; the head, neck, and breast,
of a crimson colour, and the belly of a yellowish olive colour;
whence it might, with propriety, be called the yellow-bellied
wood-pecker. The other is larger and more elegant; the
back of it a dusky brown colour, richly waved with black;
the belly has a reddish cast, with black spots; it has also a
black spot on the breast, and the lower part of the wings and
tail are of a scarlet colour; the upper part blackish. A crim-
son streak runs on each side; from the angle of the mouth, a
little down the neck. The third and fourth are, one of the
finch kind, not larger than a linnet, of a dusky colour, black
head and neck, and white bill; and a sand-piper, of a dusky
brown colour, with a broad white band across the wings, of
the size of a small pigeon. There are also humming birds,
which differ, in some degree, from the numerous sorts al-
ready known of this delicate little animal.
The quebrantahuessos, shags, and gulls were seen off the
coast; and the two last were also frequent in the Sound.
There are two sorts of wild ducks; one of which was black,
with a white head; the other was white, and had a red bill,
but of a larger size. Here are also the greater lumme, or
diver, which are found in our northern countries. Some
swans too, were once or twice seen flying to the northward,
but we are unacquainted with their haunts. On the shores
we found another sand-piper, about the size of a lark, and
not unlike a burre: also a plover, very much resembling our
common sea-lark.
Though the variety of fish is not very great here, they are
more plentiful in quantity than birds. The principal sorts
are the common herring, which are very numerous, though
not exceeding seven inches in length; a smaller sort, which,
though larger than the anchovy, or sardine, is of the same
kind; a silver-coloured bream, and another of a gold brown
colour, with narrow blue stripes. It is most probable that
the herrings, and sardines, come in large shoals at stated sea-
sons, as is usual with those kinds of fish. The two sorts of
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
355
a
breams may be reckoned next to these in quantity; and those
which were full grown weighed about a pound. The other
fish were scarce,
and consisted of a brown kind of sculpin,
such as are taken on the coast of Norway, another of a red-
dish cast; frost fish; a large one, without scales, resembling
the bull-head; and a small brownish cod with whitish spots;
also a red fish, of nearly the same size, which some of our
people had seen in the straits of Magellan; and another some-
what like the hake. Considerable numbers of those fish cal-
led the chimære, or little sea-wolves are met with here.
Sharks also frequent the Sound, the teeth of which many na-
tives had in their posession. The other marine animals are
a small crustated medusa, or blubber; star-fish, small crabs,
and a large cuttle-fish.
About the rocks there is an abundance of large muscles;
also sea-ears; and we often found shells of pretty large plane
chamæ. Also some trochi of two species; a curious murex;
rugged wilks; and a snail. Besides these, there are some
plain cockles and limpets. Many of the muscles are a span
long; in some of which there are large pearls, but they are
disagreeable both in colour and in shape. It is probable that
there is red coral either in the sound or on the coast; large
branches of it having been seen in the canoes of the natives.
The only reptiles observed here, were brown snakes, about
two feet in length, having whitish stripes on the back and
sides; and brownish water lizards. The former are so per-
fectly harmless, that we have seen the natives carry them alive
in their hands. The insect tribe seem to be more numerous.
For though the season for their appearance was only begin-
ning, we saw several different sorts of butterflies, all of which
common: we also found some humble bees; goosberry moths;
a few beetles; two or three sorts of flies, and some musquitoes.
Though we found both iron and copper here, we did not ima-
gine that either of them belonged to this place. We did not
even see the ores of any metal, except a coarse red ochry sub-
stance, used by the natives in painting or staining themselves.
This may, perhaps, contain a small quantity of iron; as may
also a black and white pigment made use of for the same
purpose.
Exclusive of the rock, which constitutes the shores and
mountains, we saw, among the natives, some articles made
of a hard black granite, which was neither very compact, nor
fine grained; also a grayish whet-stone; the common oil-
stone; and a black sort, little inferior to the hone-stone. The
natives were seen to use the transparent leafy glimmer, and
a

356
À VOYAGE TO TIIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a brown leafy or martial sort. They had also pieces of rock
crystal. The two first articles were probably to be obtained
near the spot, as they had considerable quantities of them;
but the latter, it may be supposed, came from a greater dis-
tance, or is extremely scarce; for our visitors would not part
with it without a very valuable consideration.
The stature of the natives is, in general, below the com-
mon standard; but their persons are not proportionably slen-
der, being usually pretty plump, though not muscular. Their
soft fleshiness, however, seems never to swell into corpu-
lence; and many of the older people are rather lean. Most
of the natives have round full visages, which are sometimes
broad, with high prominent cheeks. Above these, the face
frequently appears fallen in, quite across between the tem-
ples: the nose flattens at its base, has wide nostrils, and a
rounded point. The forehead is low, the eyes small, black,
and languishing; the mouth round, the lips thick, and the
teeth regular and well set, but not remarkable for their
whiteness.
Some have no beards at all, and others only a small thin
one upon the point of the chin. This does not arise from an
original deficiency of hair on that part, but from their pluck-
ing it out by the roots; for those who do not destroy it, have
not only considerable beards on every part of the chin, but
also whiskers, or mustaches, running from the upper lip to the
lower jaw obliquely downward.* Their eye-brows are also
scanty and narrow; but they have abundance of hair on the
head, which is strong, black, straight, and lank. Their necks
are short, and their arms are rather clumsy, having nothing
of beauty or elegance in their formation. The limbs, in ali
of them, are small in proportion to the other parts; besides,
they are crooked and ill-formed, having projecting ancles,
and large feet aukwardly shaped. The latter defect seems
to be occasioned, in a great measure, by their sitting so con-
tinually on their hams or knees.
Their colour cannot be properly ascertained, their bodies
being incrusted with paint and nastiness; though when these
have been carefully rubbed off, the skin was little inferior in
whiteness to that of the Europeans, though of that palish cast
which distinguishes the inhabitants of our southern nations.
Some of them, when young, appear rather agreeable, when
* It is a mistaken notion, though espoused by eminent writers, that
American Indians have no beards, See Carver's Travels, p. 224, 225;
Marsden's History of Sumatra, p. 39, 40.

Plate 23.
OF
A MAN and WOMAN of NOOTKA SOUN
ND.
UNIL


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
357
compared to the generality of the people; that period of life
being attended with a peculiar degree of animation; but after a
certain age, the distinction is hardly observable; a remarka-
ble sameness characterizes every countenance, dulness and
want of expression being visibly portrayed in every visage.
The women, in general, are of the same size, colour, and form,
with the men; nor is it easy to distinguish them, as they pos-
sess no natural feminine delicacies. Nor was there a single
one to be found, even among those who were in their prime,
who had the least pretensions to beauty or comeliness.
Their dress, in common, is a flaxen kind of mantle, orna-
mented with a narrow stripe of fur on the upper edge, and
fringed at the lower edge. Passing under the left arm, it is
tied over the right shoulder, leaving both arms perfectly free.
Sometimes the mantle is fastened round the waist by a gir-
dle of coarse matting. Over this is worn a small cloak of the
same substance, reaching to the waist, also fringed at the bot-
tom. They wear a cap like a truncated cone, or a flower-pot,
. a
a
made of very fine matting, ornamented with a round knob,
or a bunch of leathern tassels, having a string passing under
the chin, to prevent its blowing off.
The above dress is common to both sexes, and the men
often wear over their other garments, the skin of some ani-
mal, as a bear, wolf, or sea otter, with the hair outwards; some-
times tying it before, and sometimes behind, like a cloak. They
throw a coarse mat about their shoulders in rainy weather, and
they have woollen garments which are but little used. They
generally wear their hair hanging loosely down; but those
who have not a cap tie it into a kind of bunch on the crown
of the head.
Their dress is certainly convenient, and, were it kept clean,
would not be inelegant; but, as they are continually rubbing
their bodies over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their gar-
ments become greasy, and contract a rancid offensive smell.
The appearance, indeed, of these people, is both wretched
and filthy; and their heads and garments swarm with lice. So
lost are they to every idea of cleanliness, that we frequently
saw them pick off these vermin, and eat them with the great-
est composure.
Their bodies, it has been observed, are always covered
with red paint, but their faces are ornamented with a variety
of colours; a black, a brighter red, or a white colour; the last
of these gives them a ghastly horrible appearance. They
likewise strew the brown martial mica over the paint, which
causes it to glitter. Many of their ears are perforated in the

358
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
stance,
ures.
lobe, where they make a large hole, and two smaller ones
higher up on the outer edge. In these holes are hung bits of
bone, quills fastened upon a leathern thong, shells, bunches
of tassels, or thin pieces of copper. In some, the septum of
the nose is also perforated, and a piece of cord drawn
through it. Others wear, at the same place, pieces of copper,
brass, or iron, shaped somewhat like a horse-shoe, the nar-
row opening receiving the septum, so that it may be pinched
gently by two points, and thus the ornament hangs over the
upper lip. The rings of our buttons were eagerly purchased,
and appropriated to this use. Their bracelets, which they
wear about their wrists, are bunches of white bugle beads,
or thongs with tassels, or a broad black horny shining sub-
Round their ancles they frequently wear leathern
thongs, or the sinews of animals curiously twisted.
Such are their common dresses and ornaments, but they
have some that are used only on extraordinary occasions, such
as going to war, and exhibiting themselves to strangers in
ceremonial visits. Amongst these are the skins of wolves,
or bears, tied on like their other garments, but edged with
broad borders of fur, ingeniously ornamentd with various fig-
These are occasionally worn separately, or over their
common clothing. The most usual head-dress, on these oca
casions, is a quantity of withe, wrapped about the head, with
large feathers, particularly those of eagles, stuck in it; or it is
entirely covered with small white feathers. At the same
time, the face is variously painted, the upper and lower parts
being of opposite colours, and the stroke having the appear-
ance of fresh gashes; or it is besmeared with a kind of fat or
tallow, mixed with paint, formed into a great variety of fig-
ures, somewhat like carved work.
The hair, sometimes, is separated into small parcels, and
tied, at intervals, with thread; and others tie it together be-
hind, after the English manner, and stick in it some branches
of the cupressus thyoides. Thus equipped they have a truly
savage and ridiculous appearance, which is much heightened
when they assume their monstrous decorations. These consist
of a great variety of wooden masks, applied to the face, fore-
head, or upper part of the head. Some of these visors re-
semble human faces, having hair, beards and eye-brows;
others represent the heads of birds, and many the heads of
animals such as deers, wolves, porpoises, and others.
These representations generally exceed the natural size,
and they are frequently strewed with pieces of the foliaceous
mica, which makes them glitter, and augments their defor-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
359
mity. Sometimes they even exceed this, and fix large pieces
of carved work upon the head, projecting to a considerable
distance, and resembling the prow of a canoe.
So much do
they delight in these disguises, that, for want of another
mask, we saw one of them thurst his head into a tin kettle
which he had bought from us.
Whether these extravagant masquerade ornaments are
used on any religious occasion, or in any kind of diversion,
or whether they are calculated to intimidate by their mon-
strous appearance, or as decoys when hunting animals, is
uncertain. But, if travellers, in an ignorant and credulous
age, when more than marvellous things were supposed to
exist, had seen several people decorated in this manner, and
had not approached so near them as to be undeceived, they
would have believed, and have endeavoured to make others be-
lieve that a race of beings existed, partaking of the nature of
man and beast.
Among the people of Nootka, one of the dresses seems
peculiarly adapted to war. It is a thick tanned leathern mantle
doubled, and appearing to be the skin of an elk, or buffalo.
This is fastened on in the ordinary manner, and is so contriv-
ed as to cover the breast quite up to the throat; part of it, at
the same time, falling down to their heels. This garment is,
sometimes, very curiously painted, and is not only strong
enough to resist arrows, but as we understood from them,
even spears cannot pierce it; so that it may be considered as
their completest defensive armour. Sometimes they wear a
sort of leathern cloak, over which are rows of the hoofs of
deer, placed horizontally, and covered with quills, which
on their moving, make a loud rattling noise. Whether
this part of their garb is intended to strike terror in war, or
to be used on ceremonious occasions, is uncertain; but we
saw one of their musical entertainments, which was conduct-
ed by a man habited in this manner, having a mask on, and
shaking his rattle.
Though we cannot view these people without a kind of hor-
ror, when they are thus strangely apparelled, yet when divest-
ed of these extravagant dresses, and beheld in their common
habit, they have no appearance of ferocity in their counte-
nances; but, as has been already observed, they seem to be
of a quiet phlegmatic disposition; deficient in animation and
vivacity, to render themselves agreeable in society. They
are rather reserved than loquacious; but their gravity seems
constitutional, and not to arise from a conviction of its propri-
ety, or to be the result of any particular mode of education;
a

360
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
for, in their highest paroxysms of rage, they have not heat of
language, or significancy of gesture, to express it sufficiently.
The orations which they make on all public occasions
are little more than short sentences, and sometimes only
single words, forcibly repeated in one tone of voice, accom-
panied with a single gesture at every sentence; at the
same time jerking their whole body a little forward, with
their knees bending, and their arms hanging down by their
sides.
From their exhibiting human skulls and bones to sale, there
is little reason to doubt of their treating their enemies with a
degree of brutal cruelty; but, as this circumstance rather marks
a general agreement of character among almost every uncivi-
lized tribe, in every age and country, they are not to be re-
proached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. Their dis-
position, in this respect, we had not any reason to judge unfa-
vourably of. They appear to be docile, courteous, and good-
natured; but they are quick in resenting injuries, notwithstand-
ing the predominancy of their phlegm; and, like all other
passionate people, as quickly forgetting them.
The fits of passion never extended farther than the parties
immediately concerned; the spectators never entering into
the merits of the quarrel, whether it was with any of us,
or among their own people; showing as much indifference, as
if they were wholly unacquainted with the whole transaction.
It was common to see one of them rave and scold, while all
his agitation did not in the least excite the attention of
his countrymen, and when we could not discover the object of
his displeasure. They never betray the least symptom of
timidity upon these occasions, but seem resolutely determin-
ed to punish the insulter. With respect to ourselves, they
were under no apprehensions about our superiority; but if any
difference arose, were as anxious to avenge the wrong, as if
the cause of quarrel had been among themselves.
Their other passions appear to lie dormant, especially their
curiosity. Few expressed any desire or inclination to see or
examine things with which they were unacquainted, and which
to a curious observer, would have appeared astonishing. If
they could procure the articles they knew and wanted, they
were perfectly satisfied; regarding every thing else with great
indifference. Nor did our persons, dress, and behaviour,
(though so very different from their own) or even the size
and construction of our ships, seem to command their admi.
ration or attention.


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The INSIDE of a IIOUSE, in NOOTKA SOUND


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
361
a
Their indolence may, indeed, be a principal cause of this.
But it must be admitted, that they are not wholly unsuscep-
tible of the tender passions, which is evident from their
being fond of music, and that too of the truly pathetic kind.
Their songs are generally slow and solemn; but their music is
less confined than that which is usually found in other rude
nations; the variations being very numerous and expressive,
and the melody powerfully soothing. Besides their concerts,
sonnets are frequently sung by single performers, keeping
time by striking the hand against the thigh. Though solemni-
ty was predominant in their music, they sometimes enter-
tained us in a gay and lively strain, and even with a degree
of pleasantry and humour.
A rattle, and a small whistle, are the only instruments of
music which we have seen among them. The rattle is used
when they sing; but upon what occasions the whistle is used, we
never knew, unless it be when they assume the figures of parti-
cular animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl, or cry.
We once saw one of these people dressed in the skin of a wolf,
with the head covering his own, striving to imitate that animal,
by making a squeaking noise with a whistle he had in his
mouth. The rattles are generally in the shape of a bird, with
small pebbles in the belly, and the tail is the handle. They
have another sort, which resembles a child's rattle.
Some of them displayed a disposition to knavery, and in
trafficking with us, took away our goods without making any
return. But of this we had few instances, and we had abun-
dant reason to approve the fairness of their conduct. Their
eagerness, however, to possess iron, brass, or any kind of
metal, was so great, that when an opportunity presented it-
self, few of them could resist the temptation to steal it. The
natives of the South-sea islands, as appears in many instances,
would steal any thing they could find, without considering
whether it was useful to them or not. The novelty of
the object was a sufficient inducement for them to get pos-
session of it by any means. They were rather actuated by a
childish curiosity, than by a thievish disposition. The inha-
bitants of Nootka, who made free with our property, are en-
titled to no such apology. The appellation of thief is cer-
tainly due to them; for they knew that what they pilfered
from us might be converted to the purposes of private utility,
,
and, according to their estimation of things, was really va-
luable. Luckily for us, they set no value upon any of our
articles, except the metals. Linens, and many other things,
were secure from their depredations, and we could safely
VOL. I.
ZZ

362
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
leave them hanging out all night ashore, without being watch-
ed. The principle which prompted these people to pilfer
from us, would probably operate in their intercourse with
each other. We had, indeed, abundant reason to believe
that stealing is very common amongst them, and frequently
produces quarrels, of which we saw more instances than one.
The only inhabited parts of the Sound seem to be the two
villages already mentioned.
A pretty exact computation of
the number of inhabitants of both might be made from the
canoes that visited our ships, the second day after our ar-
rival. They consisted of about a hundred, which, upon an
average, contained at least five persons each. But, as there
were very few women, old men, children, or youths then
among them, we may reasonably suppose that the number of
the inhabitants of the two villages, could not be less than four
times the number of our visitors; being two thousand in the
whole.
The village which is situated at the entrance of the Sound,
stands on the side of a pretty steep ascent, extending from
the beach to the wood. The houses consist of three ranges
or rows, placed at almost equal distances behind each other,
the front row being the largest; and there are a few strag-
gling houses at each end. These rows are intersected by
narrow paths, or lanes, at irregular distances, passing upward;
but those between the houses are considerably broader.
Though this general disposition has some appearance of re-
gularity, there is none in the respective houses; for every di-
vision made by the paths, may either be considered as one
or more houses; there being no regular separation to distin-
guish them by, either within or without. These erections
consist of very long broad planks, resting upon the edges of
each other, tied in different parts, with withes of pine-bark.
They have only slender posts on the out-side, at considerable
distances from each other, to which they are also fastened,
but there are some larger poles within, placed aslant. The
sides and ends of these habitations are about seven or eight
feet in height, but the back part is somewhat higher. The
planks, therefore, which compose the roof, slant forward, and,
being loose, may be moved at pleasure. They may either
be put close to exclude the rain, or separated to admit the
light in fine weather.
Upon the whole, however, they are most miserable dwel-
lings, and display very little attention or ingenuity in their
construction: for, though the side planks are pretty close to
each other in some places, they are quite open in others. Be-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
363
sides, these habitations have no regular doors, and can only
be entered by a hole, which the unequal length of the planks
has accidentally made. In the sides of the house they have
also holes to look out at, serving for windows; but these are
very irregularly disposed, without attending, in the least, to
the shape or size of them.
Within the habitations, we have frequently a view from
one end to the other of these ranges of building; for, though
there are some appearances of separations on each side, for
the accomodation of different persons or families, they do not
intercept the sight; and generally consist of pieces of plank,
extending from the side to the middle of the house. On the
sides of each of these parts is a little bench, about five or six
inches higher than the rest of the floor, covered with mats,
whereon the family sit and sleep. The length of these benches
is generally seven or eight feet, and the breadth four or five.
The fire-place, which has neither hearth nor chimney, is in
the middle of the floor. One house, in particular, was nearly
separated from the rest by a close partition; and this was the
most regular building of any we had seen.
In it there were
four of these benches, each holding a single family at the cor-
ner; but it had not any separation by boards, and the middle
of the house seemed to be common to all the inhabitants.
The furniture of their houses consists principally of chests
and boxes of various sizes, piled upon each other, at the sides
or ends of the house; in which are deposited their garments,
skins, masks, and other articles that are deemed valuable.
Many of them are double, or the upper ones serve as a lid to
the other: some have a lid fastened with thongs; others, that
are very large, have a square hole cut in the upper part, for
the convenience of putting things in, or taking them out.
They are frequently painted black, studded with the teeth of
animals, or rudely carved with figures of birds, &c. as deco-
rations. They have also square and oblong pails; round
wooden cups and bowls; wooden troughs, of about two feet in
length, out of which they eat their food; bags of matting,
baskets of twigs, &c.
Their implements for fishing, and other things, are hung
up, or scattered in different parts of the house, without any
kind of order, making, in the whole, a perfect scene of con-
fusion; except on the sleeping benches, which have nothing
on them but the mats, which are of a superior quality to those
that they usually have to sit on in their boats.
The irregularity and confusion of their houses is, however,
far exceeded by their nastiness and stench. They not only

364
A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN,
a
dry their fish within doors, but they also gut them there;
which, together with their bones and fragments thrown upon
the ground at meals, occasions several heaps of filth, which
are never removed, till it becomes troublesome from the bulk
to pass over them. Every thing about the house stinks of
train-oil, fish, and smoke; and every part of it is as filthy as
can be imagined.
Notwithstanding all this filth and confusion, many of these
houses are decorated with images; which are nothing more
than the trunks of large trees, of the height of four or five
feet, placed at the upper end of the apartment, with a human
face carved on the front, and the hands and arms upon the
sides. These figures too are variously painted, and make,
upon the whole, a most ridiculous appearance. These ima-
ges are generally called Klumma; but the names of two par-
ticular ones, standing abreast of each other, at the distance of
about three or four feet, were Natchkoa and Matseeta. A
sort of curtain, made of mat, usually hung before them,
which the natives were sometimes unwilling to remove; and
when they did consent to unveil them, they seemed to express
themselves in a very mysterious manner. It seems probable
that they sometimes make offerings to them; for, if we rightly
interpreted their signs, they requested us to give something
to these images, when they drew the mats from before them.
From these circumstances, it was natural for us to suppose
that they were representatives of their gods, or some super-
stitious symbols; and yet they were held in no very extra-
ordinary degree of estimation, for, with a small quantity of
brass, or iron, any person might have purchased all the gods
in the place.
Mr. Webber, in drawing a view of the inside of a Nootka
house, wherein these figures are represented, was interrupted
and hindered from proceeding, by one of the inhabitants.
Thinking a bribe would have a proper effect upon this occa-
sion, Mr. Webber made him an offer of a button from his
coat, which, being metal, immediately operated as it was in-
tended, and he was at liberty to proceed as before. But soon
after he had made a beginning, he was again interrupted by
the same man, who held a mat before the figures. He there-
fore gave him another button, and was suffered again to pro-
ceed. He then renewed his former practice, till Mr. Web-
ber had parted with every single button; and then permitted
him to proceed without any farther obstruction.
The men seem to be chiefly employed in fishing, and kill-
ing animals for the sustenance of their families; few of them

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
365
being seen engaged in any business in the houses; but the
women were occupied in manufacturing their garments, and
in curing their sardines, which they also carry from the ca-
noes to their houses. The women also go in the small canoes,
to gather muscles and other shell-fish. They are as dexter-
ous as the men in the management of these canoes; and when
there are men in the canoes with them, they are paid very lit-
tle attention to on account of their sex, none of the men offer-
ing to relieve them from the labour of the paddle. Nor do
they show them any particular respect or tenderness on other
occasions.
The young men are remarkably indolent; being generally
sitting about, in scattered companies, basking themselves in
the sun, or wallowing in the sand upon the beach, like so
many hogs, without any kind of covering. This disregard
of decency was, however confined, solely to the men. The
women were always decently clothed, and behaved with
great propriety; justly meriting all commendation for a mo-
dest bashfulness, so becoming in their sex. In them it is the
more meritorious, as the men have not even a sense of
shame.
Besides seeing something of their domestic life and em-
ployments, we were enabled to form some judgment of their
disposition and method of living, from the frequent visits re-
ceived from them at our ships, in the canoes; in which we
understood they pass much of their time, especially in the
summer: for they not only eat and sleep frequently in them,
but lie and bask themselves in the sun, as we had seen them
at their village. Their large canoes are, indeed, sufficiently
spacious for that purpose; and are, except in rainy weather,
,
more comfortable habitations than their filthy houses.
Their greatest reliance for food seems to be upon
the
sea,
as affording fish, and sea-animals. The principal of the first
are herrings and sardines, two species of bream, and some
small cod. The herrings and sardines not only serve to be
eaten fresh in their season, but to be dried and smoaked as
stores. The herrings also afford them another grand re-
source for food; which is a vast quantity of roe, prepared in a
very extraordinary manner. It is strewed upon small branches
of the Canadian pine. It is also prepared upon a long sea-grass
which is found, in great plenty, upon the rocks under water.
This caviare is preserved in baskets of mat, and used occa-
sionally, after being dipped in water. It has no disagreeable
taste, and serves these people as a kind of winter-bread.
a

366
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
a
They also eat the roe of some other large fish, that has a
very rancid smell and taste.
The large muscle is an essential article of their food, which
is found in great abundance in the Sound. After roasting
them in their shells, they are stuck upon long wooden skew-
ers, and taken off as they are wanted to be eaten, as they re-
quire no further preparation, though they are sometimes dip-
ped in oil, as a sauce. The smaller shell-fish contribute to
increase the general stock, but cannot be considered as a ma-
terial article of their food.
The porpoise is more common among them as food than
any of the sea-animals; the flesh and rind of which they cut
in large pieces, dry them as they do herrings, and eat them
without farther preparation. They have also a very singular
manner of preparing a sort of broth from this animal, when
in its fresh state. They put some pieces of it in a wooden
vessel or pail, in which there is also some water, and throw
heated stones into it. This operation is repeatedly performed
till the contents are supposed to be sufficiently stewed. Then
fresh stones are put in, and the others taken out, with a cleft
stick, serving as a pair of tongs; the vessel being, for that
purpose, always placed near the fire. This is a common dish
among them, and seems to be a very strong nourishing food.
From these, and other sea-animals, they procure oil in
great abundance, which they use on many occasions, mixed
with other food, as sauce, and frequently sip it alone, with a
kind of scoop made of horn.
They probably feed upon other sea-animals, such as whales,
seals, and sea-otters; the skins of the two latter being com-
mon amongst them: and they are furnished with implements
of all sorts for the destruction of these different animals,
though perhaps, they may not be able, at all seasons, to catch
them in great plenty. No great number of fresh skins were
to be seen while we lay in the Sound.
The land animals, at this time, appeared also to be scarce,
as we saw no flesh belonging to any of them; and though
their skins were to be had in plenty, they might, perhaps,
have been procured by traffic from other tribes.
er tribes. It plainly
appears, therefore, from a variety of circumstances, that these
people are furnished with the principal part of their animal
food by the sea; if we except a few gulls, and some other
birds, which they shoot with their arrows.
Their only winter vegetables seem to be the Canadian pine-
branches, and sea-grass; but as the spring advances, they use
others as they come in season. The most common of these
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
367
were two sorts of liliaceous roots, of a mild sweetish taste,
which are mucilaginous and eaten raw. The next is a root
called aheita, and has a taste resembling liquorice. Another
small, sweetish root, about the thickness of sarsaparilla, is
also eaten raw. As the season advances, they have doubtless
many others which we did not see. For, though there is
.
not the least appearance of cultivation among them, there are
plenty of alder, gooseberry, and current bushes. One of the
conditions, however, which they seem to require in all food,
is, that it should be of the less acrid kind; for they would not
touch the leek or garlic, though they sold us vast quantities
of it, when they understood we liked it. They seemed, in-
deed, not to relish any of our food, and rejected our spiri-
tuous liquors as something disgusting and unnatural.
Small marine animals, in their fresh state, are sometimes
eaten raw; though it is their ordinary practice to roast or
broil their food; for they are absolute strangers to our meth-
od of boiling, as appears from their manner of preparing por-
poise broth; besides, as they have only wooden vessels, it is
impossible for them to perform such an operation. Their
manner of eating corresponds with the nastiness of their
houses and persons; for the platters and troughs, out of which
they eat their food, seem never to have been washed since
their original formation; the dirty remains of a former meal,
being only swept away by a succeeding one. Every thing
solid and tough, they tear to pieces with their hands and
teeth; for though their knives are employed in cutting off the
larger portions, they have not yet endeavoured to reduce
these to mouthfuls by the same means, though so much more
cleanly and convenient. But they do not possess even an
idea of cleanliness, and constantly eat the roots which are dug
from the ground, without attempting to shake off the soil that
adheres to them.
Whether they have any set time for meals, we never cer-
tainly knew; having seen them eat at all hours in their ca-
noes. But, having seen several messes of porpoise broth pre-
paring about noon, when we went to the village, they pro-
bably make a principal meal about that time.
They have bows and arrows, spears, slings, short trun-
cheons made of bone, and a small pick-axe, somewhat re-
sembling the common American tomahawk. Some of the
arrows are pointed with iron, and others with indented bone;
the
spear has usually a long point made of bone. The toma-
hawk is a stone of the length of seven or eight inches; one
end terminating in a point, and the other fixed into a wooden

368
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
handle. This handle is intended to resemble the head and
neck of a human figure; the stone being fixed in the mouth
so as to represent a tongue of great magnitude. To heighten
the resemblance, human hair is also fixed to it. This weapon
is called taaweesh; and they have another weapon made of
stone, which they call seeaik, about ten or twelve inches long,
having a square point.
It may be reasonably concluded that they frequently en-
gage
in close combat, from the number of their stone and
other weapons; and we had very disagreeable proofs of their
;
wars being both frequent and bloody, from the quantity of
human skulls that were offered us for sale.
The design and execution of their manufactures and me-
chanic arts, are more extensive and ingenious than could
pos-
sibly have been expected, from the natural disposition of the
people, and what little progress they had made in civiliza-
tion. The flaxen and woolen garments engage their first
care, as being the most material of those that may be classed
under the head of manufactures. The former are fabricated
from the bark of the pine-tree, beat into a mass resembling
hemp. After being prepared in a proper manner, it is spread
upon a stick, which is fastened to two others in an erect po-
sition. The manufacturer, who sits on her hams at this
simple machine, knots it across, at the distance of about half
an inch from each other, with small plaited threads. Though
it cannot, by this method be rendered so close and firm as
cloth that is woven, it is sufficiently impervious to the air,
and is likewise softer and more pliable,
Though their woolen garments are probably manufactured
in the same manner they have much the appearance of
woven cloth; but, the supposition of their being wrought in a
loom is destroyed by the various figures that are ingeniously
inserted in them; it being very improbable that these people
should be able to produce such a complex work, except im-
mediately by their hands. They are of different qualities;
some resembling our coarsest sort of blankets; and others not
much inferior to our finest sort, and certainly both warmer
and softer.
The wool, of which they are manufactured, seems to be
produced by different animals, particularly the fox and brown
İynx; that from the lynx is the finest, and nearly resembles
our coarser wools in colour; but the hair which also grows
upon the animal being intermixed with it, the appearance of
it is somewhat different when wrought. The ornamental
figures in these garments are disposed with great taste, and

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
369
are generally of a different colour, being usually dyed either
of a deep brown or a yellow; the latter of which, when
new,
equals, in brightness, the best in our carpets.
Their fondness for carving on all their wooden articles,
corresponds with their taste in working figures upon their
garments. Nothing is to be seen without a kind of freeze-
work, or a representation of some animal upon it; but the
most general figure is that of the human face, which is fre-
quently cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous things
already mentioned; and even upon their weapons of bone and
a
stone.
The general design of these figures conveys a sufficient
knowledge of the objects they are intended to represent;
though in the carving very little dexterity is displayed. But,
in the execution of many of the masks and heads, they have
shown themselves ingenious sculptors. They preserve, with
the greatest exactness, the general character of their own
faces, and finish the more minute parts with great accuracy
and neatness. That these people have a strong propensity to
works of this sort, is observable in a variety of particulars.
Representations of human figures, birds, beasts, fish, models
of their canoes, and household utensils, were found among
them in very great abundance,
Having mentioned their skill in some of the imitative arts,
such as working figures in their garments, and engraving, or
carving them in wood; we may also add their drawing them
in colours. The whole process of their whale-fishery has
been represented, in this manner, on the caps they wear.
This, indeed, was rudely executed, but served at least to con-
that though they have not the knowledge of letters
amongst them, they have a notion of representing actions, in
a lasting way, exclusive of recording them in their songs and
traditions. They have also other painted figures, which,
perhaps, have no established significations, and are only the
creation of fancy or caprice.
Though the structure of their canoes is simple, they ap-
pear well calculated for
purpose.
The largest,
which contain upwards of twenty people, are formed of a
single tree. The length of many of them is forty feet, the
breadth
seven, and the depth three. They become gradually
narrower from the middle towards each end, the stern ending
perpendicularly, with a knob at the top. The forepart stretch-
es forwards and upwards, and ends in a point or prow, much
higher than the sides of the canoe, which are nearly straight.
The greatest part of them are without any ornament; some
yince us,
every useful
3 А
VOL. I.

370
A VOYAGO TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
have a little carving, and are studded with seal's teeth on
the surface. Some have also a kind of additional prow,
usually painted with the figure of some animal. They have
neither seats nor any other supporters, on the inside, except
some small round sticks, about half the depth of the canoe.
They are very light, and on account of their breadth and
flatness, swim firmly, without an out-rigger, of which they are
all destitute. Their paddles, which are small and light, re-
semble a large leaf in shape, being pointed at the bottom,
broad in the middle, and gradually becoming narrower in the
shaft; the whole length being about five feet. By constant
use, they have acquired great dexterity in the management
of these paddles; but they never make use of any sails.
For fishing and hunting, their instruments are ingeniously
contrived, and completely made. They consist of nets, hooks,
and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an instrument resembling an
bar. The latter is about twenty feet in length, four or five
inches in breadth, and of the thickness of half an inch. The
edges, for about two thirds of its length, are set with sharp
bone-teeth, about two inches in length; the other third serv-
ing for a handle. With this instrument they attack herrings
and sardines and such other fish as come in shoals. It is
struck into the shoal, and the fish are taken either upon or
between the teeth. Their hooks, which are made of bone
and wood, display no great ingenuity; but the harpoon, which
is used in striking whales, and other sea-animals, manifests
a great extent of contrivance. It consists of a piece of bone,
formed into two barbs, in which the oval blade of a large
muscle shell, and the point of the instrument, is fixed. Two
or three fathoms of a rope is fastened to this harpoon, and
in throwing it, they use a shaft of about fifteen feet long, to
which the rope is fastened; to one end of which the harpoon
is fixed so as to leave the shaft floating, as a buoy upon the
water, when the animal is struck with the harpoon.
We are strangers to the manner of their catching or killing
land-animals, but, it is probable, that they shoot the smaller
sorts with their arrows; and encounter bears, wolves, and fox-
es, with their spears. They have several sorts of nets, which
are perhaps applied to that purpose; it being customary for
them to throw them over their heads, to signify their use,
when they offered them for sale. Sometimes they decoy ani-
mals, by disguising themselves with a skin, and running up-
on all fours, in which they are remarkably nimble; making, at
the same time, a kind of noise, or neighing. The masks, or
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
371
carved heads, as well as the dried heads of different animals,
are used upon these occasions.
Every thing of the rope kind, which they use in making
their various articles, is formed either from thongs of skins,
and sinews of animals, or from the flaxen substance, of which
they manufacture their mantles. The sinews were some-
times so remarkably long, that it was hardly possible they
could have belonged to any other animal than the whale. The
same conjecture may be hazarded with regard to the bones,
of which they make their instruments and weapons.
The assistance they receive from iron-tools contributes to
their dexterity on wooden performances. Their implements
are almost wholly made of iron; at least, we saw but one
chissel that was not made of that metal, and that was only of
bone. The knife and the chissel are the principal form that
iron assumes amongst them. The chissel consists of a flat
long piece, fastened into a wooden handle, A stone is their
mallet, and a bit of fish skin their polisher. Some of these chis-
sels were nine or ten inches in length, and three or four in
breadth; but they were, in general, considerably smaller.
Some of their knives are very large, and their blades are
crooked; the edge being on the back or convex part. What
we have seen among them, were about the breadth and thick-
ness of an iron hoop; and their singular form sufficiently proves
that they are not of European make. These iron tools are
sharpened upon a coarse slate whet-stone, and the whole in
strument is kept continually bright.
Iron is called by the natives seekemaile, a name which they
also give to tin, and other white metals. It being so
common among these people, we were anxious to discover
how it could be conveyed to them. As soon as we arived in
the Sound, we perceived that they had a knowledge of traffic,
and an inclination to pursue it; and we were afterwards con-
vinced that they had not acquired this knowledge from a
cursory interview with any strangers, but it seemed habitual
to them, and was a practice in which they were well skilled.
With whom they carry on this traffic, we cannot ascertain;
for, though we saw several articles of European manufacture,
or such, at least, as had been derived from some civilized
nation, such as brass and iron, it does not certainly follow
that they were received immediately from these nations. For
we never could obtain the least information of their having seen
ships, like ours before, nor of their having been engaged in
commerce with such people. Many circumstances corrobor- .
ate to prove this beyond a doubt. On our arrival, they where
earnest in their inquiries, whether we meant to settle amongst
a
a

372
À VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
them, and whether we were friendly visiters; informing us, at
the same time, that they freely gave us wood and water from
motives of friendship.
This sufficiently proves, that they considered themselves
as proprietors of the place, and dreaded no superiority: for it
would have been an unnatural inquiry, if any ships had been
here before and had supplied themselves with wood and wa-
ter, and ther departed, for they might then reasonably expect
that we should do the same. It must be admitted, indeed,
that they exhibited no marks of surprise at beholding our
ships; but this may, with great propriety, be attributed to
their natural indolence of temper, and their wanting a thirst
of curiosity. They were never startled at the report of a mus-
ket, till they, one day, showed us that their hide dresses
were impenetrable to their spears and arrows; when one of
our people shot a musket ball through one of them that
had been six times folded. Their astonishment at this plain-
ly indicated their ignorance of the effect of fire-arms. This was
afterwards very frequently confirmed, when we used them
to shoot birds, at which they appeared greatly confounded.
And our explanation of the piece, together with the nature of
its operation, with the aid of shot and ball, struck them so
forcibly as to convince us of their having no previous ideas
on this matter.
Though some account of a voyage to this coast, by the
Spaniards, in 1774 or 1775, had arrived in England before
we sailekl, the circumstances just mentioned sufficiently prove
that these ships never had been at Nootka.* It was also
evident that iron would not have been in so many hands, nor
would the use of it have been so well known, if they had se
lately obtained the first knowledge of it.
From their general use of this metal, it probably comes
from some constant source, in the way of traffic, and they
have perhaps been long supplied with it; for they use their
tools with as much dexterity as the longest practice can ac-
quire. The most natural conjecture, therefore, is, that they
trade for their iron with other Indian tribes, who may
have some communication with European settlements upon
that continent, or receive it through several intermediate na-
tions. By the same means they probably obtain their brass
.
Not only the rude materials, but some manufactured arti-
cles, seem to find their way hither. The brass ornaments for
* It bas since appeared, that they were not within two degrees of Noot-
ka, and probably the inhabitants of that place never heard of these Span-
and copper
ish ships.

LA VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
373
noses are made in so masterly a manner, that the Indians can-
not be supposed capable of fabricating them. We are certain
that the materials are European, as all the American tribes are
ignorant of the method of making brass; though copper has
been frequently met with, and, from its ductility, might ea-
sily be fashioned into any shape, and polished. If such arti-
cles are not used by our traders to Hudson's Bay and
Canada, in their traffic with the natives, they must have
| been introduced at Nootka from Mexico; whence, it is pro-
bable, the two silver table spoons were originally derived.
Little knowledge can we te supposed to have acquired of the
political and religious institutions established among these
people. We discovered, however, that there were such men
as chiefs, distinguished by the title of Acweek, to whom the
others are, in some degree, subordinate. But the authority
of each of these great men seems to extend no farther than to
his own family, who acknowledge him as their head. As
they were not all elderly men, it is possible this title may be
hereditary.
Nothing that we saw could give us any insight into their
notions of religion, except the figures already mentioned,
called Kli:mma. These perhaps, were idols; but, as the word
acweek was frequently mentioned when they spoke of them,
we may suppose them to be images of some of their ancestors,
whose memories they venerate. This, however, is all conjec-
ture, for we could receive no information concerning them;
knowing little more of their language than to enable us to
ask the names of things, and being incapable of holding any
conversation with the natives, relative to their traditions, or
their institutions.
Their language is neither harsh nor disagreeable, farther
than proceeds from their pronuncing the k and h with less
softness than we do. As to the composition of their language,
we are enabled to say but little. It may however be infer-
ed, from their slow and distinct method of speaking, that it
has few prepositions or conjunctions, and is destitute of even
a single interjection to express surprise or admiration. The
affinity it may bear to other languages, we have not been able
sufficiently to trace, not having proper specimens to compare
it with; but from the few Mexican words we have procured,
there is an obvious agreement, throughout the language, in
the frequent terminations of the words in 1, tl, or z.
The word wakash was frequently in the mouths of the peo-
ple of Nootka. It seemed to express approbation, applause,
and friendship. Whenever they appeared to be pleased or

374
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
satisfied at any sight or occurrence, they would call out wa-
kash! wakash! It is worthy of remark, that as these peo-
ple so essentially differ from the natives of the islands in the
Pacific Ocean, in their persons, customs, and language, we
cannot suppose their respective progenitors to have belong-
ed to the same tribe, when they emigrated into those places
where we now find their descendants.
We have already mentioned, that we put to sea in the even-
ing of the 26th of April, with manifest indications of an ap-
proaching storm; and these signs did not deceive us. We
had scarce sailed out of the Sound, when the wind shifted
from northeast to southeast by east, and blew a strong gale,
with squalls and rain, the sky being at the same time uncom-
monly dark. Being apprehensive of the winds veering more
to the south, which would expose us to the danger of a lee-
shore, we got the tacks on board, and made all the sail we
could to the southwest. It fortunately happened, that the
wind veered no further towards the south than southeast,
so that, early the next morning, we were entirely clear of the
coast. Captain Clerke's ship being at some distance astern,
the commodore brought too till she came up, and then both
vessels steered a north westerly course. The wind blew
with great violence, and the weather was thick and hazy.
Between one and two o'clock in the afternoon, there was a
perfect hurricane; so that the commodore deemed it exceed-
ingly dangerous to run any longer before it: he therefore
brought the ships to, with their heads to the south. In this
situation, the Resolution sprung a leak, in her starboard quar-
ter, which, at first, alarmed us extremely; but after the water
was bailed out, which kept us employed till midnight, it
was kept under by means of one pump. The wind having,
in the evening, veered to the southward, its fury in some
measure abated; upon which we stretched to the west; but
about eleven, the gale again increased and continued till five
the next morning, when the storm began to moderate.
The weather now clearing up, we were able to see several
leaguès around us, and steered more to the north. At noon,
our longitude was 229° 26' east; and our latitude, 50° 1'
north, we now steered northwest by north, with a fresh gale,
and fair weather. But, towards evening, the wind again
blew hard, with squalls and rain, With this weather, we
continued the same course till the 30th, and when we steered
north by west, intending to make the land, captain Cook re-
gretted that he could not do it sooner, as we were now pas-
spot where the pretended strait of admiral de Fonte
sing the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
375
had been placed by geographers. Though the captain gave no
credit to such vague and improbable stories, he was desi-
ous of keeping the coast of America aboard, that this point
might be cleared up beyond dispute. But he considered that
it would have been very imprudent to have engaged with the
land while the weather was so tempestuous, or to have lost
the advantage of a fair wind by waiting for less stormy
weather. This day at twelve o'clock, our latitude was 53°
22' north, and our longitude 2250 14' east.
On Friday the 1st of May, not seeing land, we steered to
the northeast, having a fresh breeze at south-southeast and
south, with squalls and showers of hail and rain. About sev-
en o'clock in the evening, we descried land, at the distance
of twelve or fourteen leagues. At four the next morning,
the coast was seen from southeast to north by west, the
nearest part of it being five or six leagues distant. At this
time, the northern point of an inlet, or, at least, what appeared
to be one, bore east by south; and from it to the northward,
there seemed to be many bays and harbours along the coast.
At six o'clock, making a nearer approach to the land, we
steered northwest by north; this being the direction of the
coast; and, between eleven and twelve, we passed a cluster
of little islands situate near the continent, to the northward
of the southern point of an extensive bay. An arm of this
bay seemed to extend in towards the north, behind a round
lofty mountain that stands between it and the sea. To this
mountain captain Cook gave the name of Mount Edgecumbe;
and the point of land projecting from it, he called Cape Ed-
gecumbe. The latitude of this cape is 57° 3' north, and its
longitude 224° 7' east. The land, except in some parts close
to the sea, is of a considerable height, abounding with hills.
a
Mount Edgecumbe, which far out-tops all the rest, was en-
tirely covered with snow, as were also the other elevated
hills; but the lower ones, and the flatter spots near the sea,
were destitute of it, and covered with wood.
In our progress to the northward, we found that the coast
from Cape Edgecumbe tended to the north and northeast for
six or seven leagues, and there formed a spacious bay.
There being some islands in the entrance of this bay, the
commodore named it the Bay of Islands. It seemed to branch
out in several arms, one of which turned towards the south,
and may perhaps communicate with the bay on the eastern
side of Cape Edgecumbe, and thus render the land of that
cape an island. On the 3d, at half an hour after four in the
morning, Mount Edgecumbe bore south 54° east; a large in-

376
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
let, north 50° east; and the most advanced point of land to-
wards the northwest, lying under a very lofty peaked moun-
tain, which obtained the appellation of Mount Fair-Weather,
bore north, 32' west. The inlet we named Cross Sound,
having first observed it on the day so marked in our calen-
dar. The southeastern point of this Sound is an elevated
promontory, which we distinguished by the name of Cross
Cape. To the point under the above mentioned peaked
mountain, we gave the name of Cape Fair-Weather. At
noon, this cape was distant twelve or thirteen leagues.
We had now light breezes from the northwest, which con-
tinued several days. We steered to the south west, and west-
southwest, till the morning of the 4th, when we tacked and
stood towards the shore. At twelve o'clock, Mount Fair-
Weather bore north 639 east, and the shore under it was
about a dozen leagues distant. This mount is the highest
of a chain or ridge of mountains, that rise at the north-
western entrance of Cross Sound, and extend towards the
northwest, parallel with the coast. These mountains were
covered with snow, from the higher summit down to the sea-
coast; except a few places, where we could discern trees that
seemed to rise, as it were, from the sea. About five o'clock
in the afternoon, the top of a high mountain appeared above
the horizon, bearing north 60° west, and as we afterwards
found, near forty leagues distant. We supposed that it was
the mount St. Elias of commodore Beering. We saw, in
the course of this day, several porpoisés, seals, and whales;
also great numbers of gulls, and many flocks of birds which
had a black circle about the head, and a black band on the
tip of the tail and upper part of the wings, the rest being
white below and bluish above. We likewise observed a
brownish duck, with a blackish or dark blue head and neck.
As we had light winds, with occasional calms, we pro-.
ceeded but slowly. On the 6th, at midday, the nearest land
was at the distance of about eight leagues. In a northeasterly
direction, there appeared to be a bay, and an island near its
southern point, covered with wood. This is probably the
place where Beering anchored. Southward of the bay (which
captain Cook named Beering's Bay, in honour of its disco-
verer) the ridge of mountains, already mentioned, is inter-
rupted by a plain of several leagues in extent, beyond which
the sight was unbounded. In the afternoon, we sounded, and
found a muddy bottom at the depth of about seventy fathoms.
Soon afterwards, having a light northerly breeze, we steered
to the westward; and, at noon, the next day, we were at the
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
377
a
distance of four or five leagues from the shore. From this
station we could perceive a bay under the high land, with
low wood-land on each side of it. We now found that the
coast trended considerably to the west; and as we had but
little wind, and that chiefly from the westward, we made a
slow progress.
On the 9th, about noon, Mount St. Elias
bore north 30° east, at the distance of nineteen leagues. This
mountain stands twelve leagues inland, in the longitude of
2199 east, and in the latitude of 60° 27' north. It belongs
to a ridge of very lofty mountains, which may be reckoned
a kind of continuation of the former, being
the former, being separated from
them only by the plain before mentioned.
On Sunday the 10th at twelve o'clock, we were about three
leagues distant from the coast of the continent, which extend-
ed from east half north, to northwest half-west. To the west-
ward of the latter direction was an island, at the distance of
six leagues. A point, which the commodore named Cape Suck-
ling, projects towards the northeastern end of this island. The
extremity of the cape is low; but, within it, stands a hill of
considerable height, which is divided from the mountains by
low land; so that the cape, at a distance, has an insular ap-
pearance. On the north side of Cape Suckling is a bay, which
seemed to be extensive, and to be sheltered from most winds.
Captain Cook had some thoughts of repairing to this bay, in
order to stop the leak of his ship, all our endeavours to effect
that
purpose at sea having proved fruitless. We therefore
steered for the Cape; but, having only variable light breezes,
we advanced towards it slowly. Before night, however, we
had approached near enough to see some low land project-
ing from the cape to the northwest: we also observed some
little islands in the bay, and several elevated rocks between
the
cape and the northeastern extremity of the island. As
there appeared to be a passage on each side of these rocks,
we continued steering thither the whole night. Early the
next morning, the wind shifted from northeast to north.
This being against us, the commodore relinquished his de-
sign of going into the bay, and bore up for the west end of
the island. There being a calm about ten o'clock, he em-
barked in a boat, and landed on the island, with a view of
seeing what lay on the other side; but finding that the hills
were at a greater distance than he expected, and that the way
was woody and steep, he laid aside that intention. On a
small eminence near the shore, he left, at the foot of a tree,
a bottle containing a paper, on which the names of our ships,
and the date of our discovery, were inscribed: he also in-
VOL. I.
3 B

378
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
state.
a
closed two silver two penny pieces of English coin, which,
with many others, had been furnished him by Dr. Kaye, now
dean of Lincoln; and, in testimony of his esteem for that
gen-
tleman, he distinguished the island by the name of Kaye's
Island.
This isle does not exceed twelve leagues in length, and its
breadth is not above a league and a half in any part of it.
The southwest point, whose latitude is 59° 49' north, and
longitude 2162 58' east, is a naked rock, considerably ele-
vated above the land within it. There is also a high rock
lying off it, which, when seen in some particular directions,
has the appearance of a ruinous castle. The island termic
nates, towards the sea, in bare sloping cliffs, with a beach
consisting of large pebbles, intermixed in some places with a
clayey sand.
The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or
rock, and are, except in a few parts, in a sort of mouldering
Some parts of the shore are interrupted by small val-
lies and gullies, in each of which a rivulet or torrent rushes
down with a considerable degree of impetuosity; though,
perhaps, only furnished from the snow, and lasting no longer
than till the whole is dissolved. These vallies are filled with
pine-trees; and they also abound on other parts of the island,
,
which, indeed, is covered, as it were, with a broad girdle of
,
wood. The trees, however, are far from being of an extra-
ordinary growth; few of them seeming to be larger than
what a person might grasp round with his arms, and their
general height being forty or fifty feet; so that they would
be of no great service for shipping, except as materials for
making top-gallant masts, and other small things. The pine-
trees appeared to be all of one species; and neither the Ca-
nadian pine, nor cypress, was to be seen.
Upon the edges of the cliffs, the surface was covered with
a kind of turf, about six inches thick, apparently composed of
the common moss; and the upper part of the island had nearly
the same appearance in point of colour; but that which co-
vered it, whatever it was, seemed to be thicker. Among the
trees were some currant and hawberry bushes, a yellow
flowered violet, and the leaves of other plants not yet in
flower, particularly one which was supposed by Mr. Ander-
son to be the heracleum of Linnæus.
A crow was seen flying about the wood; two or three
white-headed eagles, like those of Nootka, were also ob-
served; besides another species equally large, which had a
white breast. The commodore likewise saw, in his passage
from the ship to the shore, a number of fowls sitting on the
a
Х

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
379
a
water, or flying about; the principal of which were gulls, bur-
res, hags, ducks or large petrels, divers, and quebran ahuesses.
The divers were of two sorts; one very large, whose colour
was black, with a white belly and breast; the other of a smaller
size, with a longer and more pointed bill. The ducks were
also of two species; one brownish, with a dark-blue or black-
ish head and neck; the other smaller, and of a dirty black co-
lour. The shags were large and black, having a white spot
behind the wings. The gulls were of the common sort, Aving
in flocks. There was also a single bird flying about, appa-
rently of the gull kind, whose colour was a snowy white, with
some black along part of the upper side of its wings. At
the place where our party landed, a fox came from the verge
of the wood, and eyeing them with little emotion, walked
leisurely on without manifesting any signs of fear. He was
not of a large size, and his colour was of a reddish yellow.
Two or three small seals were likewise seen near the shore;
but no traces were discovered of inhabitants having ever been
in the island.
Captain Cook, with those who accompanied him, returned
on board, in the afternoon, and with a light breeze from the
east, steered for the southwest side of the island, which we
got round by eight o'clock in the evening: we then stood for
the westernmost land that was now in sight. At the northeast
end of Kaye's island stands another island, extending north-
west and southeast about nine miles, to within the same dis-
tance of the northwestern boundary of the bay mentioned be-
fore, to which the appellation of Comptroller's Bay was giv-
Early the next morning Kaye's island was still in sight,
bearing east by south; and, at this time, we were at the dis-
tance of four or five leagues from the main. At noon, the
eastern part of a spacious inlet bore west-northwest, about
three leagues distant. From Comptroller's bay to this point,
which the commodore named Cape Hinchingbroke, the di-
rection of the coast is nearly east and west. Beyond this it
appeared to incline towards the south; a direction very differ-
ent from that which is marked out in the modern charts,
founded on the late discoveries of the Russians; insomuch
that we had some reason to expect, that we should find,
through the inlet before us, a passage to the north, and that
the land to the west and southwest was a group of islands.
The wind was now southeasterly, and we were menaced with
a fog and a storm; and captain Cook was desirous of getting
into some place to stop the leak, before we had another gale
to encounter. We therefore steered for the inlet, which we
en.

380
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
torn.
away, and
gave us a view
had no sooner reached, than the weather became exceedingly
foggy, and it was deemed necessary that the ships should be
secured in some place or other, till the sky should clear up.
With this view we hauled close under Cape Hinchingbroke,
and cast anchor before a small cove, over a clayey bottom, in
eight fathoms water, at the distance of about two furlongs
from the shore.
Soon after we had anchored, the boats were hoisted out,
some to fish, and others to sound. The seine, at the same
time, was drawn in the cove; but without success, as it was
At intervals, the fog cleared
of the neighbouring land. The cape was one league distant;
the western point of the inlet, five leagues; and the land on
that side extended to west by north. Between this point and
northwest by west, we could discern no land. The most
westerly point we had in view on the north shore, was at the
distance of two leagues. Betwixt this point, and the shore
under which our ships now lay at anchor, is a bay about
three leagues deep, on the southeastern side of which are se-
veral coves, and, in the middle, stand some rocky islands.
Mr. Gore was despatched in a boat to these islands, in or-
der to shoot some birds that might serve for food. He had
scarcely reached them, when about twenty natives appeared,
in two large canoes; upon which he returned to the ships,
and they followed' him. They were unwilling, however, to
venture along-side, but kept at a little distance, shouting
aloud, and clasping and extending their arms alternately.
They then began a kind of song, much after the manner of
the inhabitants of king George's or Nootka Sound. Their
heads were strewed with feathers, and one of them held out
a white garment, which we supposed was intended as a token
of friendship; while another,, for near a quarter of an hour,
stood
up in the canoe, entirely naked, with his arms extended
like a cross, and motionless. Their canoes were constructed
upon a different plan from those of Nootka. The frame con-
sisted of slender laths, and the outside was formed of the
skins of seals, or other animals of a similar kind. Though
a
we returned their signs of amity, and endeavoured by the
most expressive gestures, to encourage them to come along-
side, we were unable to prevail upon them. Though some
of our people repeated several of the most common words of
the language of Nootka, such as makook and seekemaile, they
did not appear to understand them. After they had received
some presents that were thrown to them, they retired towards
the shore, intimating, by signs, that they would pay us anoth-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
381
er visit the next morning. Two of them, however, came off
to us in the night, each in a small canoe; hoping, perhaps,
that they might find us all asleep, and might have an oppor-
tunity of pilfering; for they went away as soon as they per-
ceived themselves discovered.
The wind, during the night, blew hard and in squalls, with
rain and thick hazy weather. The next morning, about ten,
the wind becoming more moderate, and the weather in some
measure clearing up, we got up our anchors and made sail,
in order to search for some convenient place where we might
stop the leak, as our present station was too much exposed
for that purpose. Captain Cook at first proposed to have
gone up the bay before which our ships had anchored; but
he was afterwards induced, by the clearness of the weather,
to steer towards the north, further up the great inlet. After
we had passed the northwest point of the above-mentioned
bay, we found that the coast, on that side, inclined to the
eastward. We did not follow it, but proceeded on our course
to the northward, for a point of land which we observed in
that direction.
The Americans who had visited us the preceding day,
came off again in the morning, in five or six canoes; but, as
they did not come till after we were under sail, they were
unable to reach the ships, though they followed us for a con-
siderable time. In the afternoon, before two o'clock, the un-
favourable weather returned, with so thick a haze, that we
could discern no other land but the point just mentioned, off
which we arrived between four and five o'clock, and found it
to be a little island, situate at the distance of about two miles
from the neighbouring coast, being a point of land, on the
eastern side of which we discovered an excellent bay, or
rather harbour. To this we plied up, while the wind blew
in very hard squalls, accompanied with rain. Though, at
some intervals, we could see land in every direction, yet, in
general, there was so great a fog, that we could only per-
ceive the shores of the bay for which we were now steering
In passing the island, we found a muddy bottom, at the depth
of twenty-six fathoms. Not long after, we found sixty and
seventy fathoms, over a rocky bottom, and, in the entrance of
the bay, the depth of water was from thirty to sixty fathoms.
At length, about eight o'clock, we were obliged by the vi-
lence of the squalls, to cast anchor in thirteen fathoms water,
before we had proceeded so far into the bay as the commo-
dore intended; but we thought ourselves fortunate in having
a

382
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
sit us,
the ships already secured, for the night was extremely tem-
pestuous.
Though the weather was so turbulent, the natives were
not deterred from paying us a visit.
paying us a visit. Three of them came
off in two canoes; two men in one, and one in the other, be-
ing the number that each canoe could
carry.
For they were
constructed nearly in the same manner with those of the Es
quimaux, except that in one of them were two holes for two
persons to sit in, and in the other but one. These men had
each a stick, of the length of about three feet, with the large
feathers, or wings of birds, fastened to it. These they fre-
quently held up to us, probably as tokens of peace.
The
treatment these three received, induced many others to vi-
between one and two o'clock the following morning, in
both great and small canoes.
Some of them ventured on
board the Resolution, though not before some of our people
had stepped into their boats. Among those who came on board
was a middle-aged man, who, as we afterwards found, was
the chief. His dress was made of the skin of the sea-otter,
and he had on his head such a cap as is worn by the inha-
bitants of Nootka, embellished with sky-blue glass beads.
He appeared to value these much more than our white glass
beads. Any kind of beads, however, seemed to be in high
.
estimation among these people, who readily gave in exchange
for them whatever they had, even their fine sea-otters' skins.
They were very desirous of iron, but absolutely rejected
small bits, and wanted pieces nine or ten inches long at least,
and of the breadth of three or four fingers. They obtained
but little of this commodity from us, as, by this time, it was
become rather scarce. The points of some of their spears
were of this metal; others were of copper; and a few were of
bone; of which last the points of their arrows, darts, &c.
were formed.
The chief could not be prevailed upon to venture below the
upper deck, nor did he and his companions continue long
on board, While they were with us, it was necessary to
watch them narrowly, as they soon manifested an inclination
for thieving. At length, when they had been three or four
hours along-side the Resolution, they all quitted her and re-
paired to the Discovery, which ship none of them had before
been on board of, except one man, who came from her at this
very time, and immediately returned to her, in company with
the others. As soon as they had departed from our ship,
captain Cook dsepatched a boat to sound the head of the bay;
for, as the wind was moderate at present, he had an intention
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
383
.
of laying the ship ashore, if a proper place could be found
for the process of stopping the leak. Soon afterwards all the
Americans quitted the Discovery, and made their way to-
wards our boat that was employed in sounding. The officer
who was in her, observing their approach, returned to the
ship, and all the canoes followed him. The crew of the boat
had no sooner repaired on board, leaving in her, by way of
guard, two of their number, than several of the natives step-
ped into her; some of whom presented their spears before
the two men, while others loosed the rope by which she was
fastened to the ship, and the rest were so daring as to at-
tempt to tow her away. But the moment they saw that we
were preparing to oppose them, they let her go, stepped out
of her into their own boats, and made signs to us to persuade
us to lay down our arms, being to all appearance perfectly
unconcerned.
This attempt, though a very bold one, was scarce equal to
what they had meditated on board captain Clerke's ship.
The man whom we mentioned before as having conducted his
countrymen from the Resolution to the Discovery, had first
been on board of the latter, where, looking down all the hatch-
ways, and observing no one except the officer of the watch,
and one or two others, he doubtless imagined that she might
be plundered with ease, particularly as she was stationed at
some distance from the Resolution. It was unquestionably
with this intent, that the natives went off to her. Several of
them went on board without the least ceremony, and draw-
ing their knives, made signs to the officer, and the other
peo-
ple upon deck, to keep off, and began to search for plunder.
The first thing they laid hold of was the rudder of one of our
boats, which they immediately threw overboard to those of
their party who had continued in the canoes. But, before
they had time to find another object that struck their fancy,
the ship's crew were alarmed, and many of them, armed with
cutlasses, came upon deck. On observing this, the plunder-
ers all sneaked off into their canoes, with evident marks of
indifference. It was at this time that our boat was occupied
in sounding, as we have already mentioned; and the natives,
without delay, proceeded towards her, after the disappoint-
ment they had met with at the Discovery. Their visiting us
so early in the morning was undoubtedly with a view of
plundering, on a supposition that they should find all our
people asleep.
From the circumstances above related, it may reason-
ably be inferred that these people are not at all acquainted

384
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
with fire-arms. For, if they had known any thing of their
.
effect, they would by no means have ventured to attempt car-
rying off a boat from under a ship's guns, in the face of up-
wards of a hundred men; for most of the Resolution's peo-
ple were looking at them, at the very instant of their making
the attempt. However, we left them as ignorant, in this
par-
ticular, as we found them; for they neither saw nor heard a
musket fired, except at birds.
As we were on the point of weighing anchor, in order to
proceed further up the bay, the wind began to blow as vi-
,
olently as before, and was attended with rain; insomuch that
we were obliged to veer away the cable again, and lie fast.
In the evening, perceiving that the gale did not abate, and
thinking that it might be some time before an opportunity of
getting higher up presented itself, the commodore was deter-
mined to heel the ship in our present station; and, with that
,
view, caused her to be moored with a kedge anchor and
hawser. One of the sailors, in heaving the anchor out of the
boat, was carried overboard by the buoy-rope, and accom-
panied the anchor to the bottom. In this very hazardous
situation, he had sufficient presence of mind to disengage
himself, and come up to the surface of the water, where he
was immediately taken up, with a dangerous fracture in one
of his legs. Early the following morning, we heeled the ship,
in order to stop the leak, which on ripping off the sheathing,
was found to be in the seams. While the carpenters were
employed in this business, others of our people filled the wa-
ter casks at a stream not far from our station. The wind
had, by this time, considerably abated; but the weather was
hazy, with rain. The Americans paid us another visit this
morning: those who came off first, were in small canoes;
others arrived afterwards in large ones. In one of these
great canoes were twenty women and one man, besides se-
veral children.
On Saturday the 16th, towards the evening, the weather
cleared
up, and we then found ourselves encompassed with
land. Our station was on the eastern side of the Sound, in a
place distinguished by the appellation of Snug Corner Bay.
Captain Cook, accompanied by some of his officers, went to
take a survey of the head of it; and they found that it was
sheltered from all winds, and had a muddy bottom at the
depth of from seven to three fathoms. The land near the
shore is low; partly wooden, and partly clear. The clear
ground was covered with snow, but very little remained in
the woods. The summits of the hills in the neighbourhood

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
385
ger
were covered with wood; but those that were at a greater
distance inland, had the appearance of naked rocks, involved
in snow
The leak of the Resolution being at length stopped, we
weighed anchor on the 17th, at four in the morning, and
steered a northwest course, with a gentle breeze at east-
northeast, Soon after we had made sail, the Americans vi-
sited us again, seemingly with no other view than to gratify
their curiosity, for they did not enter into any traffic with us.
When we had reached the northwestern point of the arm
wherein we had anchored, we observed that the flood-tide
came into the inlet, by the same channel through which we
had entered. This circumstance did not much contribute to
the probability of a passage to the north through the inlet,
though it did not make entirely against it. After we had
passed the point just mentioned, we met with much foul
ground, and many sunken rocks. The wind now failed
us,
and was succeeded by calms and variable light airs, so that
we had some difficulty in extricating ourselves from the dan-
that threatened us. At last, however, about one o'clock,
we cast anchor in about thirteen fathoms water, under the
eastern shore, about four leagues to the northward of our last
station. Though the weather, in the morning, had been ve-
ry hazy, it cleared up afterwards, so as to afford us a dis-
tinct view of all the surrounding land, particularly towards
the north, where it appeared to close. This gave us but lit-
tle hope of meeting with a passage that way. That he might
.
be enabled to form a better judgment, captain Cook sent Mr.
Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the northern arm;
and at the same time despatched the master with two other
boats, to survey another arm that seemed to incline towards
the east. Both of them returned at night. The master in-
formed the commodore, that the arm, to which he had been
sent, communicated with that we had last quitted, and that
one side of it was formed by a cluster of islands. Mr, Gore
reported, that he had seen the entrance of an arm, which he
thought, extended a very considerable way to the northeast-
ward, and by which a passage might probably be found. On
the other hand Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, who had ac-
companied Mr. Gore on this occasion gave it as his opinion,
that they saw the head of this arm. The variation of these
two opinions, and the circumstance before mentioned of the
flood-tide entering the inlet from the southward, rendered
the existence of a passage this way extremely uncertain.
Captain Cook therefore determined to employ no more time
3c
VOL. I.

386
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
gave the
in seeking a passage in a place that afforded so small a pros-
pect of success, particularly as the wind was now become fa-
vourable for getting out to sea.
The next morning, about three o'clock, we weighed, and
made sail to the southward down the inlet, with a light north-
erly breeze. We met with the same broken ground as on
the preceding day, but soon extricated ourselves from it.
We were enabled to shorten our way out to sea, by disco-
vering another passage into this inlet, to the southwest of
that by which we entered. It is separated from the other by
an island that extends eighteen leagues in the direction of
southwest and northeast, to which captain Cook
ap-
pellation of Montagu island.
There are several islands in this southwestern channel.
Those which are situate in the entrance, next the open sea,
are elevated and rocky, Those that are within, are low; and
as they were totally free from snow, and covered with wood
and verdure, they were for this reason denominated Green
islands.
The wind at two o'clock in the afternoon veered to the
southwest, and southwest by south, which subjected us to the
necessity of plying. We first stretched over to within the
distance of two miles of the eastern shore, and tacked in
about fifty three fathoms. As we stood back to Montagu
island, we discovered a ledge of rocks; some under water,
and others above the surface. We afterwards met with some
others towards the middle of the channel. These rocks ren-
dering it unsafe to ply during the night, we spent it in stand-
ing off and on, under Montagu island, for the depth of water
was so great that we could not cast anchor. The next morn-
ing, at break of day, we steered for the channel between the
Green islands and Montagu island, which is about two
leagues and an half in breadth. The wind was inconsider-
able the whole day; and, about eight in the evening, we had
a perfect calm; when we let go our anchors at the depth of
twenty-one fathoms, over a muddy bottom, about the distance
of two miles from Montagu island. After the calm had con-
tinued till ten o'clock the succeeding morning, a slight breeze
sprung up from the north, with which we again weighed and
made sail. Having got out into the open sea by six in the
evening, we discovered that the coast trended west by south,
as far as the eye could possibly reach.
The inlet which we had now quitted was distinguished by
captain Cook with the name of Prince William's Sound.
From what we saw of it, it seems to occupy, at least, one de-

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
387
a
gree and an half of latitude, and two degrees of longitude,
exclusive of the branches or arms, with whose extent we are
unacquainted. The natives whom we saw, were in general
of a middling stature, though many of them were under it.
They were square, or strong-chested, with short thick necks,
and large broad visages, which were, for the most part, rather
,
flat. The most disproportioned part of their body appeared
to be their heads, which were of great magnitude. Their
teeth were of a tolerable whiteness, broad, well set, and equal
in size. Their noses had full, round points, turned up at the
ip; and their eyes, though not small, were scarcely propor-
tioned to the largeness of their faces. They had black hair,
which was strong, straight, and thick. Their beards were,
in general, thin, or deficient; but the hairs growing about the
lips of those who have them, were bristly or stiff, and often
of a brownish colour; and some of the elderly men had large
thick, straight beards.
Though for the most part, they agree in the formation of
their persons, and the largeness of their heads, the variety
in their features is considerable. Very few, however, can be
said to be handsome, though their countenance usually indi-
cates frankness, vivacity, and good nature; and yet some of
them showed a reserve and sullenness in their aspect, The
faces of some of the women are agreeable; and many of them,
but principally the younger ones, may easily be distinguished
from the other sex, by the superior delicacy of their features.
The complexion of some of the females, and of the children,
is white, without any mixture of red. Many of the
men,
whom we saw naked, had rather a swarthy cast, which was
scarcely the effect of any stain, as it is not their custom to
paint their bodies.
The men, women, and children of this Sound are all clothed
in the same manner. Their ordinary dress is a sort of close
frock, or rather robe, which sometimes reaches only to the
knees, but generally down to the ancles. It has, at the
up-
per part, a hole just sufficient to admit the head, with sleeves
reaching to the wrist. These frocks are composed of the
skins of various animals, such as the gray fox, racoon, pine-
martin, sea-otter, seal, &c. and they are commonly worn
with the hairy side outwards, Some of the natives have their
frocks made of the skins of fowls, with only the down left on
them, which they glue upon other substances: we also saw one
or two woollen garments, resembling those of the inhabitants
of King George's Sound. At the seams, where the different
skins are sewed together, they are usually adorned with

388
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
fringes or tassels of narrow thongs, cut out of the same skins,
There is a sort of cape or collar to a few of them, and some
have a hood, but the other is the most customary form, and
appears to constitute their whole dress in fair weather. They
put over this, when it is rainy, another frock, made with some
degree of ingenuity from the intestines of whales, or of some
other large animal, prepared with such skill, as to resemble,
in a great measure, our gold-beater's leaf. It is formed so
as to be drawn tight round the neck; and its sleeves extend
down to the wrist, round which they are fastened with a
string. When they are in their canoes, they draw the skirts
of this frock over the rim of the hole in which they sit, so
that the water is prevented from entering. At the same time
it keeps the men dry upwards, for no water can penetrate
through it. It is apt to crack or break, if it is not constantly
kept moist. This frock, as well as the common one made of
skins, is nearly similar to the dress of the natives of Green-
land, as described by Crantz. *
Though the inhabitants of this inlet, in general, do not co-
ver their legs or feet, yet some of them wear a kind of skin
stockings, reaching half way up their thighs. Few of them
are without mittens for their hands, formed from the skins
of a bear's paws. Those who wear any thing on their heads,
resembled, in this particular, the people of Nootka, having
high truncated conical caps, composed of straw, and some-
times of wood.
The hair of the men is commonly cropped round the fore-
heads and neck, but the females suffer it to grow long; and
the greatest part of them tie a lock of it on the crown, while
a few club it behind, after our method. Both the men and
women perforate their ears with several holes, about the out-
er and lower part of the edge, wherein they suspend small
bunches of beads. They also perforate the septum of the
nose, through which they often thrust the quill-feathers of
birds, or little bending ornaments, made of a tubulous shelly
substance, strung on a stiff cord, of the length of three or
four inches, which give them a ridiculous and grotesque ap-
pearance. But the most extraordinary ornamental fashion,
adopted by some of the natives of both sexes, is their having
the under-lip cut quite through length-wise, rather below the
swelling part. This incision frequently exceeds two inches
in length, and either by its natural retraction while the wound
is still fresh, or by the repetition of some artificial manage-
* Crantz's History of Greenland, Vol. I. p. 136-138.
a

Plate 27
Shallas Sc.
BV
OF
UNIL
MAN and WOMAN of PRINCE WILLIAMS SOUND,
MO14


A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
389
a
ment, assumes the appearance and shape of lips, and becomes
sufficiently large to admit the tongue through. This hap-
pened to be the case, when a person with his under lip thus
slit, was first seen by one of our sailors, who immediately
exclaimed, that the man had two mouths; which, indeed, it
greatly resembles. They fix in this artificial mouth a flat,
narrow kind of ornament, made principally out of a solid
shell or bone, cut into small narrow pieces, like teeth, almost
down to the base, or thick part, which, has at each end a pro-
jecting bit, that serves to support it when put into the di-
vided lip; the cut part then appearing outwards. Some of
them only perforate the lower lip into separate holes; on
which occasion the ornament consists of the same number of
distinct shelly studs, the points of which are thrust through
these holes, and their heads appear within the lip, not unlike
another row of teeth under their natural ones. Such are the
native ornaments of these people. But we observed among
them many beads of European manufacture, chiefly of a pale
blue colour, which are hung in their ears, or about their caps,
or are joined to their lip-ornaments, which have a little hole
drilled in each of the points to which they are fastened, and
others to them, till they sometimes even hang as low as the
points of the chin. In this last case, however, they cannot
remove them with such facility; for, with respect to their own
lip-ornaments, they can take them out with their tongue at
pleasure. 'They likewise wear bracelets of beads made of a
shelly substance, or others of a cylindrical form composed of
a substance resembling amber. And they are, in general, so
fond of ornaments of some kind or other, that they fix any
thing in their perforated lip; for one of them appeared with
two of our iron nails projecting like prongs from it; and
another man attempted to put a large brass button into it.
The men often paint their faces of a black colour, and of a
bright red, and sometimes of a bluish or leaden hue; but not
in any regular figure. The women puncture or stain the chin
with black, that comes to a point in each of their cheeks; a
custom similar to which is in vogue among the Greenland fe-
males, as we are informed by Crantz. The bodies of these
people are not painted, which may probably be owing to the
scarcity of materials for that purpose; all the colours which
they brought for sale being in very small quantities. Upon
the whole, we have in no country seen savages who take more
pains than these do to ornament, or rather (as we should
think) to disfigure their persons.

390
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
Their canoes are of two sorts; the one large and open, the
,
other small and covered. We have mentioned before, that
there were twenty women and one man, besides children, in
one of their large boats. Captain Cook having attentively
examined this, and compared its construction with Crantz's
description of the great, or woman's boat in Greenland, found
that they were built in the same mode, with no other differ-
ence than in the form of the head and stern, particularly of
the former, which somewhat resembles a whale's head. The
framing consists of slender pieces of wood; and the outside
is composed of the skins of seals, or other sea animals,
stretched over the wood. The small canoes of these people
are constructed nearly of the same form and materials with
those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders. Some of these,
as we have already mentioned, carry two persons. Their
fore-part is curved like the head of a violin; and they are
broader in proportion to their length, than those of the Es-
quimaux.
Their weapons, and implements for hunting and fishing,
are the same with those used by the Greenlanders and Es-
quimaux. Many of their spears are headed with iron, and
their arrows are generally pointed with bone.
pointed with bone. Their larger
darts are thrown by means of a piece of wood about a foot
long, with a small groove in the middle, which receives the
dart: at the bottom is a hole for the reception of one finger,
which enables them to grasp the piece of wood much firmer,
and to throw with greater force. For defensive armour they
have a sort of jacket, or coat of mail, formed of laths, fasten-
ed together with sinews, which render it very flexible, though
it is so close as not to admit a dart or arrow. It serves only
to cover the trunk of the body, and may, not improperly, be
compared to the stays worn by women.
We had not an opportunity of seeing any of the habitations
of the natives, as none of them dwelt in the bay where our
ships anchored, or where any
of us landed. With respect to
their domestic utensils, they brought, in their canoes, some
round and oval wooden dishes, rather shallow, and others of
a cylindrical form, considerably deeper. The sides consist-
ed of one piece, bent round, after the manner of our ship-
boxes, but thick, and neatly fastened with thongs: the bot-
toms being fixed in with small pegs of wood, Others were
somewhat smaller, and of a more elegant figure, not unlike a
large oval butter-boat, without any handle, but shallower:
these were composed of a piece of wood, or some horny sub-
stance, and were sometimes neatly carved. They had a num.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
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a
a
ber of little square bags, made of the same gut with their ex-
terior frocks, curiously adorned with very small red feathers
interwoven with it, in which were contained several very fine
sinews, and bundles of small cord, made out of them, plaited
with extraordinary ingenuity. They likewise brought some
wooden models of their canoes, chequered baskets, wrought
so closely as to hold water, and a considerable number of
small images, of the length of four or five inches, either of
wood, or stuffed, which were covered with a piece of fur, and
embellished with quill-feathers, with hair fixed on their heads.
We could not determine whether these were intended merely
as children's toys, or were held in veneration, as representing
their deceased friends and relations, and applied to some su-
perstitious purpose. They have many instruments formed
of two or three hoops, or concentrical pieces of wood, hay-
ing a cross-bar fixed in the middle, by which they are held.
To these they fix a number of dried barnacle-shells, with
threads, which, when shaken, produce a loud noise, and thus
serve the purpose of a rattle. This contrivance is probably
a substitute for the rattling-bird at King George's Sound.
It is uncertain with what tools their wooden utensils, frames
of canoes, &c. are made; the only one that we observed
among them being a sort of stone adze, somewhat resembling
those of Otaheite, and other islands of the Pacific ocean.
They have a great quantity of iron knives, some of which are
rather curved, others straight, and some very small ones,
fixed in longish handles, with the blades bent upwards. They
have also knives of another sort, sometimes almost two feet
in length, shaped, in a great measure, like a dagger, with a
ridge towards the middle. They wear these in sheaths of
skins, hung by a thong round their necks, under their robe
or frock. It is probable, that they use them only as weapons,
and that their other knives are applied to different purposes.
Whatever they have, is as well made as if they were pro-
vided with a complete chest of tools; and their plaiting of
sinews, sewing, and small work on their little bags above-
mentioned, may be said to vie with the neatest manufactures
found in any part of the globe. Upon the whole, consider-
ing the uncivilized state of the natives of this Sound, their
northerly situation, amidst a country almost continually co-
vered with snow, and the comparatively wretched materials
they have to work with, it appears, that, with respect to their
,
skill and invention, in all manual operations, they are at least
equal to any other people.

392
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
The food that we saw them eat, was the flesh of some ani-
mal, either roasted or broiled, and dried fish. Some of the
former that was purchased, had the appearance of bear's flesh.
They likewise eat a larger sort of fern-root, either baked or
dressed in some other method. Some of us observed them
eat freely of a substance, which we imagined was the inte-
rior part of the pine-bark. Their drink, in all probability, is
water; for, in their canoes, they brought snow in wooden ves-
sels, which they swallowed by mouthfuls. Their manner of
eating is decent and cleanly, for they constantly took care to
remove any dirt that might adhere to their food; and though
they would sometimes eat the raw fat of some sea animal,
they did not fail to cut it carefully into mouthfuls. Their per-
sons were, to appearance, always clean; and their utensils in
general, were kept in excellent order, as were also their boats.
The language of these people seems difficult to be under-
stood, which is, perhaps, not owing to any confusion or in-
distinctness in their sounds, but to the various significations
which their words bear. For they appeared frequently to
make use of the same word on very different occasions; though
probably, if we had had a longer intercourse with them, this
might have proved to be a mistake on our part. Among the
very few words of their language that Mr. Anderson was
enabled to procure, are the following, viz. aa, yes; keeta, give
me something; tawak, keep it; akashou, what's the name of
that? namuk, an ear ornament; natooneshuk, a sea-otter's
skin; ableu, a spear; yaut, I'll go, or shall I go? keelasbuk,
guts of which they make jackets; naema, give me something
by way of exchange, or barter; whaehai, shall I keep it?
ooonuka, of or belonging to me.
Our knowledge of the animals of this part of the American
continent is entirely derived from the skins that were brought
by the natives for sale. These were principally of bears,
common and pine-martins, sea-otters, seals, racoons, small
ermines, foxes, and the whitish cat or lynx. Among these
various skins, the most common were those of racoons, mar-
tins, and sea-otters, which constituted the ordinary dress of
these people; but the skins of the martins, which were in
general of a far lighter brown than those of Nootka, were
greatly superior to them in point of fineness; whereas those
of the sea-otters, which, as well as the martins, were much
more plentiful here than at Nootka, seemed to be consider-
ably inferior in the thickness and fineness of their fur, though
they far exceeded them with respect to size; and were for
the most part, of the glossy black sort. The skins of seals

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
393
a
and bears were also pretty common; and the former were in
general, white, beautifully spotted with black, or sometimes
simply white; and many of the bears here were of a dark
brown hue.
Besides these animals, there is here the white bear, of
whose skins the natives brought several pieces, and some
complete skins of cubs. There is also the wolverine, or
quickhatch, whose skin has very bright colours; and a larger
species of ermine than the common one, varied with brown,
and having scarcely any black on its tail. The skin of the
head of some very large animal was likewise brought to us,
but we could not positively decide what it was; though, from
the colour and shagginess of the hair, and its not resembling
any land animal, we conjectured that it might be that of the
male ursine seal, or sea-bear. But one of the most beautiful
skins that fell under our observation, is that of a small ani-
mal near a foot in length, of a brown colour on the back, with
a number of obscure whitish specks, the sides being of a blu-
ish ash colour, with a few of these specks. The tail is about
a third part of the length of the body, and is covered with
whitish hair. This animal is doubtless the same with that
which is called by Mr. Stæhlin, in his account of the New
Northern Archipelago, the spotted field-mouse. But whe-
ther it is really of the mouse kind, or a squirrel, we could not
determine, for want of entire skins; though Mr. Anderson
was inclined to imagine that it is the same animal which Mr.
Pennant has described under the appellation of the Casan
marmot. The great number of skins that we observed here,
demonstrates the abundance of the various animals we have
mentioned; but it is somewhat remarkable, that we neither
met with the skins of the moose, nor of the common species
of deer.
With respect to birds, we found here the halcyon, or great
king-fisher, which had fine bright colours; the shag; the white
headed eagle; and the humming-bird, which often flew about
our ships, while we lay at anchor; though it can scarcely be
supposed to live here during the winter, which must be ex-
tremely severe. The water-fowl seen by us were black sea-
pyes, with red bills, such as we met with in New Zealand
and Van Diemen's land; geese; a small sort of duck, nearly
resembling that species we saw at Kerguelen's land; and
another sort with which none of us were acquainted. Some
of our people who went ashore killed a snipe, a grouse, and
some plovers. But though the water-fowl were numerous,
particularly the geese and ducks, they were so shy that it was
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394
A VOY A GE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
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a
scarce possible to get within shot; in consequence of which,
we procured a very inconsiderable supply of them as refresh-
ment. The duck before-mentioned is about the size of the
common wild duck, of a deep black, with red feet, and a short
pointed tail. Its bill is white, tinged towards the point with
red, and has a large black spot, almost square, near its base,
on each side, where it is also somewhat distended. On the
forehead is a large triangular white spot; and on the hinder
part of the neck is one still larger. The colours of the female
are considerably duller than those of the male; and it has
none of the ornaments of the bill, excepting the two black
spots, which are rather obscure.
A species of diver, which seems peculiar to this place, was
observed here. It is equal to a partridge in size, and has a
short, black, compressed bill. Its head, and the upper part
of its neck, are of a brownish black; and the remainder of its
body is of a deep brown, obscurely waved with black, except
the under part, which is totally of a blackish cast, minutely
varied with white. We also found a small land bird, of the
finch kind, about the size of a yellow-hammer; but we
imagined it to be one of those which change their colour with
the season, and with their different migrations. It was, at
this time, of a dusky brown, with a reddish tail; and the sup-
posed male had, on the crown of the head, a large yellow
spot, with some varied black on the upper part of its neck;
but the latter was on the breast of the female.
The fish that were principally brought to us by the natives
for sale, were torsk and halibut, and we caught some scul-
pins about the ship, with star-fish of a purplish hue, that had
sixteen or eighteen rays. The rocks were almost destitute
of shell-fish; and the only other animal of this tribe that was
observed by us, was a reddish crab, covered with very large
spines.
The metals seen by us were iron and copper; both which,
but more particularly the former, were in such abundance, as
to form the point of numbers of their lances and arrows. The
ores which they made use of to paint themselves with, were
a brittle, unctuous, red ochre, or iron ore; a pigment of a
bright blue; and black lead. Each of these seemed to be
very scarce among them.
We observed few vegetables of any kind; and the trees that
chiefly grew about this Sound were the Canadian and spruce
pine, some of which were of a considerable size.
These people must, doubtless, have received from some
more civilized nation, the beads and iron found among them, ,
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
395
We were almost certain, that we were the first Europeans
with whom they had ever had a direct communication; and
it remains only to be determined from what quarter they had
procured our manufactures, by intermediate conveyance.
And it is more than probable, that they had obtained these
articles, through the intervention of the more inland tribes,
either from the settlements about Hudson's bay, or those on
the lakes of Canada; unless we can admit the supposition,
that the Russians, from Kamtschatka, have already extended
their traffic to this distance; or that the natives of their most
easterly Fox islands, carry on an intercourse along the coast
with the inhabitants of Prince William's Sound.
With respect to copper, these people perhaps procure it
themselves, or, at most, it passes to them through few hands;
for, when we offered any of it by way of barter, they used
to express its being in sufficient plenty among them, by point-
ing to their weapons; as if they meant to intimate, that, as
they had so much copper of their own, there was no occasion
for increasing their stock.
If, however, the natives of this inlet are furnished with
European commodities by means of the intermediate traffic
to the eastern coast, it is rather remarkable, that they should
never in return, have supplied the more inland Indians with
some of their sea-otter skins, which would undoubtedly have ap-
peared, at some time or other, in the environs of Hudson's bay.
But that does not appear to be the case; and the only method
by which we can account for this, must be by considering
the very great distance; which, though it might not prevent
European articles of commerce from coming so far, as being so
uncommon, might hinder the skins, which are common, from
passing through more than two or three tribes, who might
make use of them for their own clothing, and send others,
which they reckoned of inferior value, as being of their own
animals, towards the east, till they reach the traders at the
European settlements.
Leaving Prince William's Sound, on Wednesday the 20th
of May, we steered to the southwest, with a gentle breeze;
which was succeeded by a calm at four o'clock the next morn-
ing, and that calm was soon after followed by a breeze from
south west. We continued to stretch to the southwest, and
passed a lofty promontory, in the latitude of 59° 10', and the
longitude of 207° 45'. It having been discovered on prin-
cess Elizabeth's birth-day, captain Cook gave it the name of
Cape Elizabeth. As we could see no land beyond it, we flat-
tered ourselves that it was the westerp extremity of the conti-

396
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
nent; but we were soon convinced that we were mistaken,
fresh land appearing in sight, bearing west-southwest. The
wind had now increased to a strong gale, and forced us to a
considerable distance from the coast. On the 22d, in the af-
ternoon, the gale abated, and we stood for cape Elizabeth;
which, about noon the next day, bore west, distant ten leagues.
New land was then seen, bearing southwest, which, it was
imagined, connected cape Elizabeth with the land we had
seen towards the west.
We stood to the southward till the next day at noon, at
which time we were about three leagues from the coast,
which we had seen on the 22d. In this situation, it formed
a point, that bore west-northwest. More land was disco-
vered, extending to the southward; on which was seen a
ridge of mountains, with summits covered with snow, behind
the first land, which we supposed to be an island, there aps
pearing on it but an inconsiderable quantity of snow. The
latitude of this point of land is 58° 15', and its longitude
207° 42'. And, by what the commodore could gather from
Beering's Voyage and Chart, he supposed it to be what he
called
cape St. Hermogenes. But the account of that voy-
age, as well as the chart, is so extremely inaccurate, that it is
almost impossible to discover any one place, which that na-
vigator either saw or touched at. The commodore, indeed,
was by no means certain, that the bay which he had named
after Beering, was the place where he had anchored.
In the chart above mentioned, a space is here pointed out,
where Beering is supposed to have seen no land. This fa-
voured Mr. Stæhlin's account, who makes cape St. Hermo-
genes, and the land discovered by Beering to the southwest
of it, to be a cluster of islands; and that St. Hermogenes
is
one of those which are destitute of wood. This appeared
to be confirmed by what we now saw; and we entertained
the pleasing hopes of finding here a passage northward, with-
out being under the necessity of proceeding any farther to
the southwest.
By variable light airs and calms, we were detained off the
cape till two o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when a
breeze springing up, we steered along the coast, and per-
ceived that the land of cape St. Hermogenes was an island,
about six leagues in circumference, separated from the coast
by a channel of about one league in breadth. Some rocks
lie above water, a league and a half to the north of this island;
and on the northeast side of the rocks, we had from thirty to
twenty fathoms water.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
397
About noon, St Hermogenes bore southeast, distant eight
leagues; the land to the northwest extending from south half
west to near west. In the last direction, it ended in a low
point, named Point Banks. The ship was at this time, in
the latitude of 58° 41' and in the longitude of 2079 44'.
In this situation, the land was in sight, bearing northwest,
which it was imagined, connected cape Elizabeth with this
southwest land. When we approached it, we saw it was a
group of high islands and rocks, and consequently unconnected
with any other land. From the nakedness of their appear-
ance, they were denominated the Barren Isles: they are sit-
uated in the latitude of 590, three leagues distant from cape
Elizabeth, and five from point Banks.
We intended to have passed through one of the channels
by which these islands are divided, but, a strong current set-
ting against us, we went to the leeward of them all. The
weather, which had been thick and hazy, cleared up towards
the evening, and we perceived a very lofty promontory, whose
elevated summit appeared above the clouds forming two ex-
ceedingly high mountains. The commodore named this
promontory Cape Douglas, in honour of his friend Dr.
Douglas, canon of Windsor. Its latitude is 58° 56', and its
longitude 20610'; twelve leagues from point Banks, and
ten to the westward of the Barren Isles.
The coast seemed to form a large deep bay, between this
point and cape Douglas; which, from our observing some
smoke upon point Banks, received the name of Smoky Bay.
On the 26th, at day-break being to the northward of the Bar-
ren Isles, we perceived more land, extending from cape
Douglas to the north. It consisted of a chain of very high
mountains; one of which, being much more conspicuous than
the rest, obtained the name of Mount St. Augustin.
We were now discouraged at perceiving this land, sup-
posing it to be wholly unconnected with the land off cape
Elizabeth. We also expected to find a passage to the north-
west, between cape Douglas and mount St. Augustin. It
was, indeed, imagined, that the land to the north of
cape
Douglas, consisted of a group of islands, separated by so
many channels, any of which we might have chosen, accor-
ding to the direction of the wind.
Flattered with these ideas, and having a fresh gale at north-
northeast, we stood to the northwest, till eight o'clock,
when we were fully convinced, that what we had supposed
to be islands, were summits of mountains, connected by the
lower land, which we could not perceive at a greater dis-

398
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tance, on account of the haziness of the horizon. This land
was covered wholly with snow, from the tops of the moun-
tains down to the sea-beach; and had, in every other respect,
the appearance of a great continent. Captain Cook was now
fully convinced, that he should discover no passage by this
inlet: and his persevering in the search of it, was more to
satisfy others, than to confirm his own opinion.
Mount St. Augustin, at this time, bore northwest, about
three leagues distant. It is of vast height, and of a conical
figure; but whether it be an island, or part of the continent,
is not yet ascertained. Perceiving that nothing was to be
done to the west, we stood over to cape Elizabeth, under
which we fetched at about five in the afternoon.
Between cape Elizabeth and a lofty promontory, named
Cape Bede*, is a bay, in which there appeared to be two snug
harbours. We stood into this bay, and might have anchor-
ed there in twenty-three fathoms water; but, the commodore
having no such intention, we tacked and stood to the west-
ward, with a very strong gale, accompanied with rain and
hazy weather. The gale abated the next morning, and about
three o'clock in the afternoon, the weather cleared up; cape
Douglas bearing southwest, by west, and the depth of water
being forty fathoms, over a rocky bottom.
The coast from cape Bede, trended northeast by east, with
a chain of mountains inland, in the same direction. On the
coast, the land was woody, and there appeared to be some
commodious harbours. We had the mortification, however,
to discover low land in the middle of the inlet, extending
from north-northeast, to northeast by east; but, as it was
supposed to be an island, we were not much discouraged.
About this time we steered, with a light breeze, to the west-
ward of this low land; as, in that direction, there was no ap-
pearance of obstruction. Our soundings were from thirty to
twenty-five fathoms.
In the morning of the 28th, having but little wind, the
ship drove to the southward; and, in order to stop her, we
dropped a kedge anchor, with an eight inch hawser. But, in
bringing the ship up, we lost both that and the anchor. We
brought the ship up, however, with one of the bowers, and
spent a considerable part of the day in sweeping for them,
but without effect. We were now in the latitude of 59° 51';
.
the low land extended from northeast to southeast, the near-
est part distant about two leagues. The land on the western
shore was distant about seven leagues. A strong tide set to
* This name and that of mount St. Augustio were directed by our cal-
endar.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
399
the southward, out of the inlet; it was the ebb, and ran al-
most four knots in an hour. At ten o'clock it was low wa-
ter. Great quantities of sea-weed, and some drift-wood,
were taken out with the tide. Though the water had be-
come thick, and resembled that in rivers, we were encourag-
ed to proceed, by finding it as salt as the ocean, even at low
water. Three knots was the strength of the flood-tide; and
the stream continued to run up till four in the afternoon.
Having a calm the whole day, we moved with a light
breeze at east, at eight o'clock in the evening, and stood to
the north, up the inlet. The wind, soon after, veered to the
north, increased to a fresh gale and blew in squalls, with
some rain. But this did not hinder us from plying up while
the flood continued, which was till the next morning, at near
five o'clock. We had from thirty-five to twenty-four fa-
thoms water. We anchored about two leagues from the
eastern shore, where our latitude was 60° 8'; some low land,
which we supposed to be an island, lying under the western
shore, distant between three and four leagues.
The weather having now become fair and clear, we could
not see any land within our horizon, when nothing was visi-
ble to obstruct our progress in a northeast direction. But a
ridge of mountains appeared on each side, rising behind each
other without any separation. Captain Cook supposed it to
be low water about ten o'clock, but the ebb ran down till al-
most twelve. Two columns of smoke were now visible on
the eastern shore; a certain sign that inhabitants were near.
We weighed at one in the afternoon, and plied up under
double reefed top-sails, having a strong gale at northeast.
We stretched over to the western shore, intending to have
taken shelter till the gale should cease; but falling suddenly
from forty fathoms water into twelve, and seeing the ap-
pearance of a shoal, we stretched back to the eastward, and
anchored in nineteen fathoms water, under the eastern shore;
the northwest part of which, ended in a bluff point.
On the 30th of May about two o'clock in the morning, we
weighed anchor again, the gale having much abated, but still
continuing contrary. We plied up till near seven, and then
anchored in nineteen fathoms water, under the shore to the
eastward.
Two canoes with a man in each, came off to the ship about
noon, nearly from that part where we had seen the smoke
the day before. It cost them some labour to paddle across
the strong tide, and they hesitated a little before they dared
venture to approach us. One of them was very loquacious,
a

400
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
but to no purpose, for we could not understand a syllable he
said; while he was talking, he kept pointing continually to
the shore, which we supposed to be an invitation for us to go
thither. Captain Cook made them a present of a few trifles,
which he conveyed to them from the quarter gallery.
These people strongly resembled those we had seen in
Prince William's sound both in dress and person: their ca-
noes were also constructed in the same manner. One of our
visiters seemed to have no beard, and his face was painted
of a jet black; the other who was older, was not painted, but
he had a large beard and a countenance like the common
sort of the people in the sound. Smoke was this day seen
upon the flat western shore; whence we inferred, that these
lower spots only are inhabited.
As we weighed when the flood made, the canoes quitted.
us. We stood over to the western shore, with a fresh gale,
and fetched under the point above mentioned. This with the
point on the opposite shore, contracted the breadth of the
channel to about four leagues, through which ran a prodi-
gious tide. It had a terrible appearance, as we were ignorant
whether the water was thus agitated by the stream, or by the
dashing of the waves against sands or rocks. Meeting with
no shoal, we concluded it to be the former, but we afterwards
found ourselves mistaken.
We kept the western shore aboard, that appearing to be
the safest. We had a depth of thirteen fathoms near the
shore, and two or three miles off, upwards of forty. In the
evening, about eight o'clock, we anchored under a point of
land, bearing northeast, distant about three leagues, and lay
there during the ebb.
Till we arrived here, the water retained an equal degree
of saltness both at high and low water, and was as salt as
that which is in the ocean; but now the marks of a river ev-
idently displayed themselves. The water which was taken
up at this ebb, was much fresher than any we had tasted;
whence we concluded that we were in a large river, and not
in a strait which had a communication with the northern seas.
But having proceeded thus far, we were anxious to have
stronger proofs; and therefore in the morning of the 31st we
weighed with the flood, and drove up with the tide, having
but little wind.
We were attended about eight o'clock, by many of the na-
tives, in one large canoe and several small ones. The latter
had only one person on board each; and some of the paddles,
had a blade at each end, like those of the Esquimaux. Men

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
401
women, and children, were contained in the large canoes.
At some distance from the ship, they exhibited on a long
pole, a kind of leathern frock, which we interpreted to be a
sign of their peaceable intentions. They conveyed this frock
into the ship, as an acknowledgment for some trifles which
the commodore had given them.
No difference appeared either in the persons, dress, or ca-
noes of these people, and the natives of Prince William's
Sound, except that the small canoes were not so large as
those of the Sound, and carried only one man.
We bartered with them for some of their fur dresses,
made of the skins of animals, particularly those of sea-otters
martins, and hares: we also had a few of their darts, and a
supply of salmon and halibut. We gave them in exchange
for these, some old clothes, beads, and pieces of iron.
They were already possessed of large iron knives, and
glass beads of a sky blue colour, such as we saw among
the
inhabitants of Prince William's Sound. The latter, as well
as those which they received of us, they seemed to value
highly. But they were particularly earnest in asking for
large pieces of iron, to which they gave the name of goone;
though with them, as well as with their neighbours in the
Sound, one word seemed to have many significations. Their
language is certainly the same; the words ooonaka, keeta, and
waema, and a few others which were frequently used in Prince
William's Sound, were also commonly used by this new tribe.
After passing about two hours between the two ships, they
retired to the western shore.
We anchored at nine o'clock, in sixteen fathoms water, and
almost two leagues from the western shore, the ebb being al-
ready begun. It ran but three knots an hour at its greatest
strength; and fell after we had anchored, twenty one feet
upon a perpendicular. The weather was alternately clear and
misty, with drizzling rain. When it was clear, we perceived
low land between the mountains on the eastern shore, bear-
ing east from the station of the ships, which we concluded
to be islands between us and the main land. We also beheld
low land to the northward, which appeared to extend from
the mountains on one side, to those on the other; and at low
water, large shoals were seen stretching out from this low
land, from some of which we were not far distant. We doubt-
ed from these appearances, whether the inlet did not take
an easterly direction through the above opening; or whether
that opening was only a branch of it, the main channel con-
3 E
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A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tinuing its northern direction. The chain of mountains, on,
each side of it strongly countenanced the latter supposition.
To be satisfied of these particulars, captain Cook despatch
ed two boats; and when the flood tide made, followed with
the two ships: but it being a dead calm, and having a strong
tide, we anchored, after driving about ten miles. At the low-
est of the ebb, the water at and near the surface was perfect-
ly fresh; though retaining a considerable degree of saltness,
if taken above a foot below it. We had this and many other
convincing proofs of its being a river; such as thick muddy
water, low shores, trees, and rubbish of various kinds, float-
ing backwards and forwards with the tide. In the afternoon
we received another visit from the natives, in several canoes
who trafficked considerably with our people, without so much
as attempting any dishonest action.
At two o'clock in the morning of the 1st of June, the mas-
ter who commanded the two boats, returned, informing us
that he found the inlet, or river, contracted to one league in
breadth, and that it took a northerly course through low
land on each side. He advanced about three leagues through
this narrow part, which he found from twenty to seventeen
fathoms deep. While the stream ran down, the water was
perfectly fresh; but it became brackish when it ran up, and
very much so towards high water.
He went ashore upon an island, between this branch and
that to the east, and saw some currant bushes; and some
other fruit trees and bushes that were unknown to him.
About three leagues to the northward of this search, he saw
another separation in the eastern chain of mountains, through
which he supposed it probable the river took a northeast di-
rection; but this perhaps, was only another branch, and the
main channel continued in a northern direction between the
two chains of mountains.
The hopes of finding a passage were no longer entertained;
but as the ebb was spent, and we were unable to return
against the tide, we took the advantage of the latter, to get
a closer view of the eastern branch; in order to determine,
whether the low land on the east, was an island, or not. For
this
purpose we weighed with the first of the flood, and stood
over for the eastern shore. At eight o'clock a breeze sprung
up in an opposite direction to our course so that we despair-
ed of reaching the entrance of the river. The commodore,
therefore despatched two boats, under the command of lieu-
tenant King, to make such observations as might enable us
to form some tolerable idea of the nature of the river,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
403
a
We anchored about ten o'clock, in nine fathoms water.
The commodore observing the strength of the tide to be so
great, that the boats could not make head against it, made a
signal for them to return before they had proceeded half way
to the entrance of the river. The chief knowledge obtained
by this tide's work, was that all the low land, which we im-
agined to be an island was one continued tract from the great
river to the foot of the mountains, terminating at the south
entrance of this eastern branch, which the commodore de-
nominated the River Turnagain. The low land begins again
on the north side of this river, and extends from the foot of
the mountains, to the banks of the great river; forming be-
fore the river Turnagain, a large bay, having from twelve to
five fathoms water.
After entering the bay, the flood set very strong into the
river Turnagain, and the ebb came out still stronger, the
water falling twenty feet upon a perpendicular. From these
circumstances, it plainly appeared, that a passage was not to
be expected by this side river, any more than by the main
branch. But, as the water at ebb, though much fresher, re-
tained a considerable degree of saltness, it is probable that both
these branches are navigable by ships much farther; and that
a very extensive inland communication lies open, by means
of this river and its several branches. We had traced it to
the latitude of 61° 30', and the longitude of 210', which is
upwards of seventy leagues from its entrance, and saw no
appearance of its source.
The time we spent in the discovery of this great river*
ought not to be regretted, if it should hereafter prove use-
ful to the present, or any future age. But the delay, thus oc-
casioned, was an essential loss to us, who had an object of
great magnitude in view. The season was far advanced; and
it was now evident that the continent of North America ex-
tended much farther to the west, than we had reason to ex-
pect from the most approved charts. The commodore, how-
ever, had the satisfaction to reflect, that if he had not ex-
amined this very large river, speculative fabricators of ge-
ography would have ventured to assert, that it had a com-
munication with the sea to the north, or with Hudson's or Baf-
fin's bay to the east; and it would probably have been mark-
ed on future maps of the world, with as much appearance of
precision, as the imaginary straits of de Fuca, and de Fonte.
* Captain Cook having here left a blank, lord Sandwich very judici-
ously directed it to be called Coole's River.

404
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Mr. King was again sent, in the afternoon, with two arm.
ed boats, with orders from captain Cook to land on the south-
east side of the river, where he was to display the flag; and
in his majesty's name, to take possession of the country and
the river. He was also ordered to bury a bottle in the earth,
containing some English coin of 1772, and a paper, whereon
were written the names of our ships, and the date of our
discovery. The ships in the mean time, were got under sail.
The wind blew fresh easterly, but we had not been long un-
der way before a calm ensued; and the flood tide meeting us
we found it necessary to anchor in six fathoms water; the
point where Mr. King landed bearing south, at the dis-
tance of two miles. This point of land was named Point
Possession.
On Mr. King's return, he informed the commodore, that
when he approached the shore, he saw eighteen or twenty of
the natives with their arms extended; an attitude, he sup-
posed, meant to signify their peaceable disposition, and to
convince him that they were without weapons. Seeing Mr.
King and his attendants land, and observing muskets in their
hands, they were alarmed, and requested (by expressive
signs) that they would lay them down. This was immediately
complied with, and then Mr. King and his party were per-
mitted to walk up to them, when they appeared to be very
sociable and cheerful.
They had with them several dogs, and a few pieces of
fresh salmon. Mr. Law, surgeon of the Discovery, happen-
ing to be of the party, purchased one of the dogs, and taking
it towards the boats, immediately shot it dead. At this they
seemed exceedingly surprised; and not thinking themselves
safe in such company, they walked away; but it presently
appeared, that they had concealed their spears and other wea-
pons in the bushes close behind them. Mr. King informed
us, that the ground was swampy, and the soil poor and light.
It however, produced some pines, alders, birch, and willows;
some rose and currant bushes, and a little grass; but there
was not a plant in flower to be seen.
When it was high water we weighed anchor, and with a
faint breeze, stood over to the west shore, where we anchor-
ed early the next morning, on account of the return of the
flood. Presently after we were visited by several of the na-
tives, in canoes, who bartered their skins, and afterwards
parted with their garments, many of them returning perfect-
ly naked. Among others they brought a great quantity of
the skins of white rabbits and red foxes, but only two or

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
405
three of those of otters. We also purchased some pieces of
halibut and salmon. They gave iron the preference to every
thing we offered them in exchange. The lip ornaments were
less in fashion among them than at Prince William's Sound,
but those which pass through the nose were worn frequent,
and in general considerably longer. They had likewise more
embroidered work on their garments, quivers, knife-cases,
and many other articles.
We weighed at half past ten, and plied down the river
with a gentle breeze at south; when by the inattention of the
man at the lead, the Resolution struck, and stuck upon a
bank, nearly in the middle of the river. It is pretty certain
that this bank occasioned that strong agitation of the stream
with which we were so much surprised when turning up the
river. We had twelve feet depth of water about the ship, at
the lowest of the ebb, but the bank was dry in other parts.
When the Resolution came aground, captain Cook made
a signal for the Discovery to anchor. We were afterwards
informed, that she had been almost ashore on the west side
of the bank. About five o'clock in the afternoon, as the flood
tide came in, the ship floated off without sustaining any dam-
age, or occasioning the least trouble. We then stood over
to the west shore, where we anchored in deep water to wait
for the ebb, the wind being still unfavourable to us.
At ten o'clock at night we weighed with the ebb; and
about five the next morning, (the 3d of June,) the tide being
finished, we cast anchor on the west shore, about two miles
below the bluff point. When we were in this station we were
visited by many of the natives, who attended us all the
morning; and indeed, their company was highly acceptable
to us, as they brought with them a quantity of fine salmon,
which they exchanged for some of our trifles. Several hun-
dred weight of it was procured for the two ships, and the
greatest part of it was split, and ready for drying.
The mountains now, for the first time after our entering
the river, were free from clouds, and we perceived a volca-
no in one of those on the western side. Its latitude is 60°
23'; and it is the first high mountain north of mount St. Au-
gustin. The volcano is near the summit, and on that part of
the mountain next the river. It emits a white smoke, but
no fire. The wind continuing southerly, we still tided it down
the river; and on the morning of the 5th, arriving at the
place where we had lost our kedge-anchor, we attempted,
though unsuccessfully, to recover it.
a

406
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Before our departure from this place, we were again visit-
ed by some of the natives, in six canoes, from the eastern
shore. For half an hour they remained at a small distance
from the ships, gazing at them with a kind of silent surprise
without uttering a syllable to us, or to each other. At length
they grew courageous, came along-side, and began to barter
with us; nor did they leave us till they had parted with their
skins and salmon, which were the only articles they had
brought to traffic with.
It may not be unnecessary to remark, that all the people
we have seen in this river, had a striking resemblance, in
every particular, to those who inhabit Prince William's
Sound, but differed most essentially from those of Nootka, as
well in their persons as their language.
The points of their spears and knives are made of iron;
some of the former indeed, are made of copper. Their spears
resemble our spontoons; and their knives, for which they
have sheaths, are of a considerable length. Except these, and
a few glass beads, every thing we saw amongst them was of
their own manufacture. We have already hazarded conjec-
tures from whence they derive their foreign articles. It can-
not be supposed, however, that the Russians have been
amongst them, for we should not then have seen them cloth-
ed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter.
A very beneficial fur trade might certainly be carried on
with the natives of this vast coast; but without a northern
passage, it is too remote for Great Britain to be benefited
by such commerce,
It should however be observed, that al-
most the only valuable skins, on this west side of North
America, are those of the sea otter. Their other skins were
of an inferior quality; and it should be further observed,
that the greater part of the skins, which we purchased of
them, were made up into garments. Some of them, indeed, ,
were in pretty good condition, others old and ragged, and
all of them extremely lousy. But, as skins are used by these
people only for clothing themselves, they, perhaps are not
at the trouble of dressing more of them than they require for
this purpose. This is probably the chief cause of their kil-
ling their animals, for they principally receive their supply
of food from the sea and rivers. But if they were once ha-
bituated to a constant trade with foreigners, such an inter-
course would increase their wants, by acquainting them with
new luxuries: to be enabled to purchase which, they would
become more assiduous in procuring skins; a plentiful supply
of which might doubtless be obtained in this country.

A VOYAGE TO TIIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
407
The tide is very considerable in this river, and greatly as-
sists to facilitate the navigation of it. In the stream, it is
high water between two and three o'clock, on the days of the
new and full moon; and the tide rises between three and
four fathoms. The mouth of the river being in a corner of
the coast, the ocean forces the flood into it by both shores,
which swells the tide to a greater height than at other parts
of this coast.
The ebb tide making in our favour, we weighed, and with
a gentle breeze at southwest, plied down the river. The
flood however, obliged us to anchor again; but about one
o'clock the next morning, we got under sail, with a fresh
breeze, passed the Barren Islands about eight, and at noon
cape St. Hermogenes bore south southeast, about eight
leagues distant. We intended to go through the passage be-
tween the island of that name and the main land; but the
wind soon after failed
us, and we had baffling airs from the
eastward; we therefore, abandoned the design of carrying
our ship through that passage.
We now beheld several columns of smoke on the conti-
nent, northward of the passage, which were probably meant
as signals to attract us thither. The land forms a bay here, a
low rocky island lying off the northwest point of it. Some
other islands, of a similar appearance, are scattered along the
coast between here and point Banks.
About eight in the morning, St. Hermogenes extended
from south half east to south southeast; and the rocks bore
southeast, distant three miles. Here we had forty fathoms
water, and catched several halibut with hooks and lines. We
passed the rocks, and bore up to the southward about mid-
night; and on the 7th, at noon, St. Hermogenes bore north
at the distance of four leagues. The southermost point of
the main land lay north half west, five leagues distant. The
latitude of this promontory is 58° 15', and its longitude 2070
24'. It was named after the day, Cape Whitsunday; and a
large bay, to the west of it, was called Whitsuntide Bay.
The wind, which had been at northeast, shifted to the
southward about two in the afternoon. The weather was
gloomy, and the air cold. At mid-night we stood in for the
land, and at seven o'clock in the morning of the 8th, we
were within four miles of it, and less than two miles from
some sunken rocks bearing west-southwest. Here we an-
chored in thirty-five fathoms water. In standing in for the
coast, we passed the mouth of Whitsuntide Bay, and per-
ceived land all around the bottom of it; therefore the land

408
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIG OCEAN. .
must either be connected, or the points lock in behind each
other: the former conjecture appears to be the most probable.
There are some small islands to the west of the bay. To the
southward the sea coast is low, with projecting rocky points,
having small inlets between them. Upon the coast there was
no wood, and but little snow; but the mountains, at some
distance inland, were entirely covered with snow. We were
now in the latitude of 57° 52 1-2'. The land here forming a
point, it was named Cape Greville. Its latitude is 570 33',
and its longitude 209, 15'. It is fifteen leagues distant from
St. Hermogenes.
The 9th, 10th, and 11th, we had constant misty weather,
with some rain, and seldom had a sight of the coast; we had
a gentle breeze of wind, and the air was raw and cold. We
continued plying up the coast.
In the evening of the 12th, the fog clearing up, we saw
the land about twelve leagues distant, bearing west; and we
stood in for it early the next morning. At noon we were
within three miles of it; an elevated point, which was named
Cape Barnabas, in the latitude of 579 13', bore north-north-
east, at the distance of about ten miles. We could not see the
northeast extreme for the haze, but the point to the south-
west had an elevated summit, which terminated in two
round hills, and was therefore called Twoheaded Point.
This part of the coast is principally composed of high hills,
and deep vallies. We could sometimes perceive the tops of
other hills, beyond those which form the coast, which had a
very barren appearance, though not much incumbered with
snow. Not a tree or bush was to be found, and the land, in
general, had a brownish hue.
We continued to ply, and at about six in the evening, be-
ing about mid-way between Barnabas and Two-headed
point, two leagues from the shore, we had sixty-two fathoms
Here a low point of land was observed, bearing
south 690 west. On the 14th at noon we were in the latitude
56° 49'. The land seen the preceding evening now appeared
like two islands. We were up with the southermost part
of this land the next morning, and perceived it to be an
island, which obtained the name of Trinity Island. Its
greatest extent, in the direction of east and west, is about six
leagues. It has naked elevated land at each end, and is low
towards the middle. Its latitude is 56° 36', and its longi-
tude 205°. It is distant about three leagues from the conti-
nent, between which rocks and islands are interspersed. There
seems nevertheless to be a good passage, and safe anchor-
cape
water,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
409
age. We at first imagined, that this was Beering's Foggy
Island; but its situation is not agreeable to his chart.
In the evening, at eight, we were within a league of the
small islands above mentioned. The westermost point of the
continent, now in view, we called Cape Trinity, it being a
low point facing Trinity Island. In this situation, we stood
up for the island, meaning to work up between that and the
main. In standing over towards the island, we met two men
in a canoe, paddling from thence to the main; instead of ap-
proaching us, they seemed carefully to avoid it.
The wind now inclining to south, we expected it would
certainly be at southeast; knowing, from experience, that a
southeasterly wind was here generally accompanied with a
thick fog, we were afraid to venture between the island and
the continent, lest we should not be able to accomplish our
passage before night, or before the foggy weather came on;
when we should be under the necessity of anchoring, and
lose the advantage of a fair wind. Induced by these reasons
we stretched out to sea, and passed two or three rocky islands
near the east end of Trinity island. Having weathered the
island, we tacked about four in the afternoon, and steered
west southerly with a gale at south-southeast; which veered
to the southeast about midnight, and was attended with
misty rainy weather.
We expected from the course we steered during the night
to fall in with the continent in the morning; and we should
doubtless, have seen it, if the weather had been clear. No
land appearing at noon, and the gale and fog increasing, we
steered west northwest, under such sail as we could haul the
wind with; sensible of the danger of running before a strong
gale, in the vicinity of an unknown coast, and in a thick fog.
It was, however, become necessary to run some risk, when
,
the wind was favourable to us; as we were convinced, that
clear weather was generally accompanied with westerly
winds.
About three in the afternoon land was perceived through
the fog, bearing northwest, about three miles distant. We
instantly hauled up south, close to the wind. The two cour-
ses were soon after split, and we had others to bring to the
yards: several of our sails received considerable damage.
The gale abated, and the weather cleared up about nine;
when we again saw the coast, about the distance of five
leagues. Our depth was a hundred fathoms water.
The fog returned soon after, and was dispersed about
four o'clock the next morning; when we found ourselves, in
VOL. I.
3

410
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
some degree, surrounded by land; the continent, or that
which we supposed to be the continent, some elevated land
bearing southeast, about nine leagues distant. The extreme
of the main, at the northeast, was the point of land seen
during the fog: it was named Foggy Cape, and lies in the
latitude of 56° 31'.
Having had but little wind all night, a breeze now sprung
up at northwest; we stood to the southward with this, in or-
der to make the land plainer, that was seen in that direction.
About nine o'clock, we discovered it to be an island, nine
miles in circumference, in the latitude of 560 10', and the
longitude of 2020 45'. In our chart, it is named Foggy Island;
it being reasonable to suppose, from its situation, that it is
the island on which Beering had bestowed the same appel-
lation. Three or four islands bore north by west; a point,
with pinnacle rocks upon it, bore northwest by west, called
Pinnacle point; and a cluster of islets south-southeast, about
nine leagues from the coast. In the afternoon we had very
little wind, and our progress was inconsiderable.
On Wednesday the 17th, we had gentle breezes between
west and northwest; the weather was perfectly clear, and
the air dry and sharp. The continent, about noon, extended
from southwest to north by east; the nearest part about se-
ven or eight leagues distant, a group of islands lying to the
southwest, about the same distance from the continent.
The weather was clear and pleasant on the 18th, and it
was calm the greatest part of the day. There is, probably, a
continuation of the continent between Foggy cape and Trin-
ity island, which the thick weather hindered us from per-
ceiving.
The commodore having occasion to send a boat to the
Discovery, one of the people aboard her shot a most beau-
tiful bird. It is smaller than a duck, and the colour is black,
except that the forepart of the head is white, behind each
eye, an elegant yellowish white crest arises; the bill and feet
are of a reddish colour. The first we saw of these birds was
to the southward of cape St. Hemogenes; after which we
saw them daily, and frequently in large flocks. We often
.
saw most of the other sea birds, that are usually met with in
the northern oceans; such as shags, gulls, puffins, sheer-wa-
ters, ducks, geese, and swans; and we seldom passed a day
,
without seeing whales, seals, and other fish of great magni-
tude.
We got a light breeze, southerly, in the afternoon, and
steered west, for the channel between the islands and the
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
411
continent. At day break the next morning, we were not far
from it, and perceived several other islands, within those that
we had already seen, of various dimensions. But between
these islands, and those we had seen before, there appeared
to be a clear channel, for which we steered; and at noon, our
latitude was 550 18', in the narrowest part of the channel.
Of this group of islands, the largest was now upon our left,
and is called Kodiak, as we were afterwards informed. The
commodore did not bestow a name upon any of the others,
though he supposed them to be the same that Beering has
named Schumagin's islands.* Islands appeared to the south-
ward, as far as an island could be seen. They begin in the
longitude of 20015' east, and extend about two degrees to
the westward.
Most of these islands are tolerably high, but very barren
and rugged; exhibiting very romantic appearances, and
abounding with rocks and cliffs. They have several bays and
coves about them, and some fresh water streams descend
from their elevated parts; but the land was not embellished
with a single tree or bush. Plenty of snow still remained on
many of them, as well as on those parts of the continent
which appeared between the innermost islands.
By four o'clock in the afternoon, we had passed all the
islands to the south of us. We found thirty fathoms water
in the channel, and soon after we had got through it, the
Discovery, which was two miles astern, fired three guns, and
,
brought to, making a signal to speak with us. Captain Cook
was much alarmed at this; for, as no apparent danger had
been observed in the channel, he was apprehensive, that the
Discovery had sprung a leak, or met with some similar ac-
cident. A boat was sent to her, which immediately returned
with captain Clerke. He informed the commodore, that some
natives, in three or four canoes, having followed the ship for
some time, at last got under his stern; one of whom made
many signs, having his cap off, and bowing in the European
manner. A rope was then handed down from the ship, to
which he fastened a thin wooden box, and after, he had
made some more gesticulations, the canoes left the Discova
ery.
It was not imagined, that the box contained any thing, till
the canoes had departed, when it was accidentally opened,
and found to contain a piece of paper, carefully folded up,
a
on which some writing appeared, which they supposed to
* Decouvertes des Russes, par Muller, p.
262. 277

412
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
be in the Russian language. To this paper was prefixed the
date of 1778, and a reference was made therein to the year
1776. Though unable to decypher the alphabet of the writer,
we were convinced, by his numerals, that others had preced-
ed us in visiting these dreary regions. Indeed the hopes of
speedily meeting some of the Russian traders, must be high-
ly satisfactory to those, who had been so long conversant
with the savages of the Pacific ocean, and those of the con-
tinent of North America.
At first, captain Clerke imagined, that some Russians had
been shipwrecked here; and that, seeing our ships, these un-
fortunate persons were induced thus to inform us of their
situation. Deeply impressed with sentiments of humanity on
this occasion, he was in hopes the Resolution would have
stopped till they had time to join us; but no such idea ever
occurred to captain Cook. If this had really been the case,
he
supposed, that the first step such shipwrecked persons would
have taken, in order to secure relief would have been, to
send some of their people off to the ships in the canoes. He
therefore, rather thought, the paper was intended to com-
municate some information, from some Russian trader, who
had lately visited these islands, to be delivered to any of his
countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, sup-
posing us to be Russians, had brought off the note. Convinc-
ed of this, he inquired no farther into the matter, but made
sail and steered to the westward.
We ran all night with a gentle breeze at northeast; and
the next morning at two, some breakers were seen within us
distant about two miles; others were soon after seen ahead,
and they were innumerable on our larboard bow, and also
between us and the land. By holding a south course, we with
difficulty, cleared them. These breakers were produced by
rocks, many of which were above water; they are very dan-
gerous, and extend seven leagues from land. We got on
their outside about noon, when our latitude was 54g 44/ and
our longitude 1989. The nearest land was an elevated bluff
point, and was named Rock point: it bore north, about eight
leagues distant; the westermost part of the main, bore north-
west; and a high round hill, called Halibut head, bore south-
west, distant about thirteen leagues.
At noon, on the 21st, we made but little progress, having
only faint winds and calms. Halibut head then bore north
24o west; and the island where it is situated called Halibut
Island, extended from north by east to northwest. This
island is seven leagues in circumference, and except the head,

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
413
is very low and barren; several small islands are near it, be-
tween which and the main, there appears to be a passage of
the breadth of two or three leagues.
We were kept at such a distance from the continent, by
the rocks and breakers, that we had a very distant view of
the coast between Halibut island and Rock Point. We could
however, perceive the main land covered with snow; and
particularly some hills, whose elevated tops towered above
the clouds to a most stupendous height. A volcano was seen
on the most southwesterly of these hills, which perpetually
throws up immense columns of black smoke; it is no great
distance from the coast, and is in the latitude of 54. 48', and
the longitude of 1959 45'. Its figure is a complete cone,
and the volcano is at the summit of it remarkable as it
may
appear, the wind, at the height to which the smoke of the
volcano rose, often moved in an opposite direction to what it
did at sea, even in a fresh gale.
Having three hours calm in the afternoon, upwards of an
hundred halibuts were caught by our people, some of which
weighed upwards of an hundred pounds, and none of them
less than twenty. They were highly acceptable to us. We
fished in thirty-five fathoms water, about four miles distant
from the shore; during which time, we were visited by a
man in a small canoe, who came from the large island.
When he approached the ship, he uncovered his head and
bowed, as the other had done the preceding day, when he
came off to the Discovery.
That the Russians had some communication with these
people, was evident, not only from their politeness, but from
the written paper already mentioned. We had now an addi-
tional proof of it; for our new visiter had on a pair of green
cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, under the frock of
his own country. He had with him, a gray fox skin and some
fishing implements: also a bladder, in which was some liquid
which we supposed to be oil; for he opened it, drank a mouth-
ful, and then closed it up again.
His canoe was smaller than those we had seen before,
though of the same construction; like those who had visited
the Discovery, he used the double bladed paddle. His fea-
tures resembled those of the natives of Prince William's
Sound, but he was perfectly free from any kind of paint; and
his lip had been perforated in an oblique direction, though
at that time, he had not any ornament in it. Many of the
words, so frequently used by our visiters in the Sound, were
repeated to him, but he did not appear to understand any of

414
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
them; owing either to his ignorance of the dialect, or our er-
roneous pronunciation.
The weather was mostly cloudy and hazy, till the after-
noon of the 22d, when the wind shifted to the southeast, at-
tended as usual, with thick rainy weather. Before the fog,
we saw no part of the main land, except the volcano, and a
neighbouring mountain. We steered west till seven, when,
fearing we might fall in with the land in thick weather, we
hauled to the southward till two the next morning, and then
bore away west. Our progress was but trifling, having but
little wind, and that variable: at five o'clock in the afternoon
we had an interval of sun-shine, when we saw land, bearing
north 59g west.
On the 24th, at six in the morning, we saw the continent,
and at nine it extended from northeast by east, to southwest
by west; the nearest part four leagues distant. The land to
the southwest consisted of islands, being what we had seen
the preceding night. In the evening, being about the distance
of four leagues from the shore, and having little wind, we
threw out our hooks and lines, but caught only two or three
little cod.
We got an easterly breeze the next morning, and with it,
what was very uncommon, clear weather; insomuch, that we
clearly saw the volcano, the other mountains, and all the
main land under them. It extended from northeast by north,
to northwest half west. Between this point and the islands, a
large opening appeared for which we steered, till land was
seen beyond it; and though we did not perceive that this
land joined the continent, a passage through the opening was
very doubtful; as well as whether the land to the southwest
was insular or continental. Unwilling to trust too much to
appearances, we therefore steered to the southward; when
having got without all the land in sight, we steered west, the
islands lying in that direction.
Three of them, all of a good height, we had passed by
eight o'clock; more were now seen to the westward. In the
afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and afterwards turn-
ed to a mist, the wind blowing fresh at east. We therefore
hauled the wind to the southward till day-break, and then
proceeded on our course to the west.
We derived but little advantage from daylight, the weath-
er being so thick that we could not discover objects at the
distance of a hundred yards; but as the wind was moderate,
we ventured to run. About half an hour after four, the sound
of breakers alarmed us, on our larboard bow; we found

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
415
a
twenty-eight fathoms water, and then twenty-five. We
brought the ship to, and anchored in the last depth; the com-
modore ordering the Discovery, who was not far distant, to
anchor also.
Some hours after, the fog being a little dispersed, we dis-
covered the imminent danger we had escaped. We were
three quarters of a mile from the northeast side of an island,
two elevated rocks were about half a league from us, and
from each other. Several breakers also appeared about them;
and yet Providence had safely conducted the ships through
in the dark, between these rocks, which we should not have
attempted to have done in a clear day, and to so commodious
an anchoring place.
Being so near land, captain Cook ordered a boat ashore,
to examine what it produced. When she returned in the af-
ternoon, the officer who commanded her said, he saw some
grass,
and other small plants, one of which had the appear-
ance of purslain; but the island produced neither trees nor
shrubs.
The wind blew fresh at south, in the night; but in the
morning was more moderate, and the fog, in a great degree
dispersed. We weighed at seven o'clock, and steered be-
tween the island near which we had anchored, and a small
one not far from it. The breadth of the channel does not ex-
ceed a mile, and the wind failed before we could pass through
it; we were therefore obliged to anchor, which we did in
thirty-four fathoms water. Land now presented itself in
every direction. That to the south extended, in a ridge of
mountains, to the southwest; which we afterwards found to
be an island called Oonalashka.
Between this island, and the land to the north, which we
supposed to be a group of islands, there appeared to be a
channel in a northwest direction. On a point, west from the
ship, and at the distance of three quarters of a mile, we per-
ceived several natives and their habitations. To this place
we saw two whales towed in, which we supposed had just
been killed. A few of the inhabitants, occasionally, came off
to the ships, and engaged in a little traffic with our people,
but never continued
with us above a quarter of an hour at a
time. They seemed remarkably shy; though we could readily
discover they were not unacquainted with vessels, similar,
in some degree, to ours. Their manner displayed a degree of
politeness which we had never experienced among any of
the savage tribes.
a

416
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
wafted up
a
About one in the afternoon, being favoured with a light
breeze, and the tide of food, we weighed, and proceeded to
the channel last mentioned; expecting when we had passed
through, either to find the land trend away to the northward;
or that we should discover a passage out to sea, to the west.
For we did not suppose ourselves to be in an inlet of the
continent, but among islands; and we were right in our con-
jectures. Soon after we got under sail, the wind veered to
the north, and we were obliged to ply. The depth of water
was from forty to twenty seven fathoms. In the evening, the
ebb made it necessary for us to anchor within three leagues
of our last station.
We weighed the next morning at day-break, and were
the passage by a light breeze at south; after which
we had variable light airs from all directions. There was,
however, a rapid tide in our favour, and the Resolution
got
through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not equal-
ly fortunate, for she was carried back, got into the race, and
found a difficulty in getting clear of it.
Being now through the channel, we found the land, on
one side tending west and southwest, and that on the other
side to north. This encouraged us to hope, that the conti-
nent had taken a new direction in our favour. Being short of
water, and expecting to be driven about in a rapid tide, with-
out wind sufficient to govern the ship, we stood for a har-
bour on the south side of the passage, but were driven be-
yond it; and that we might not be forced back through the
passage, anchored near the southern shore, in twenty eight
fathoms water, and out of the reach of the strong tide;
though even here it ran five knots and an half in an hour.
In this situation, we were visited by several of the natives
in separate canoes. They bartered some fishing implements
for tobacco. A young man, among them, overset his canoe,
while he was along side of one of our boats. He was caught
hold of by one of our people, but the canoe was taken up by
another, and carried ashore. In consequence of this accident
the youth was obliged to come into the ship, where he was
invited into the cabin, and readily accepted the invitation,
without any surprise or embarrassment. He had on an upper
garment resembling a shirt, made of the gut of a whale, or
some other large sea-animal. Under this, he had another of
the same form, made of the skins of birds with the feathers
on, curiously sewed together; the feathered side placed next
his skin. It was patched with several pieces of silk stuff, and
his cap was embellished with glass beads.

Plate 28.
w
OF
UNIL
)
C
O CANOES of QONALISHKA ().
M
ICH


Plate 20.
E. Shallus So
A MAN and WOMAN of ONALASHKA.
RICH
OF


A. VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
417
a
His clothes being wet, we furnished him with some of our
own, which he put on with as much readiness as we could
have done. From the behaviour of this youth, and that of
several others, it evidently appeared, that these people were
no strangers to Europeans, and to many of their customs.
Something in our ships, however, greatly excited their cu-
riosity; for such as had not canoes to bring them off, as-
sembled on the neighbouring hills to have a view of them.
At low water we towed the ship into the harbour, where
we anchored in nine fathoms water, the Discovery arriving
soon after. A boat was sent to draw the seine, but we caught
only a few trout, and some other small fish. We had not
long anchored, before a native of the island brought another
note on board, similar to that which had been given to cap-
tain Clerke. He presented it to captain Cook; but, as it was
written in the Russian language, neither he, nor any
of
us,
could read it. As it could not be of any use to us, and might
probably be of consequence to others, the commodore re-
turned it to the bearer, accompanied with a few presents; for
which he expressed his thanks, as he retired, by several low
bows.
On the 29th, we saw along the shore, a group of the nam
tives of both sexes, seated on the grass, partaking of a re-
past of raw fish, which they seemed to relish exceedingly.
We were detained by thick fogs, and a contrary wind, till
the 2d of July; during which time we acquired some knowl-
edge of the country, as well as of its inhabitants; the par-
ticulars of which shall be hereafter related.
The harbour is called Samganoodha, by the natives, and is
situated on the north side of Oonalashka, the latitude being
53° 55', the longitude 193° 30'; and in the strait which sepa-
rates this island from those to the north. It is about a mile
broad at the entrance, and runs in about four miles south by
west. It narrows towards the head, the breadth there not ex-
ceeding a quarter of a mile. Plenty of good water may be
procured here, but no wood of any kind,
a
a
VOL. I.
3 G

A VOYAGE
то
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK IV. CONTINUED.
Departure from Samganoodha-Death of Mr. Anderson-Most Westerly
Point of America named Cape Prince of Wales-The ships anchor in a
Bay on the Eastern Extremity of Asia-Behaviour of the natives, the
Tschutski, to their Visiters-Interview with some of them-Their Wea-
pons-Persons-Ornaments--Clothing-Winter and Summer Habita-
tions-Dogs—The Ships cross the Strait to the Coast of America—Ap-
pearance of the Horizon indicating the Vicinity of Ice-Prodigious
Fields of Ice-The Situation of Icy Cape-Imminent Danger of the
two Ships-Sea Horses killed, and eaten-Those Animals described
Flocks of Birds indicating Land to the North-Observations on the For-
mation of the Ice-Fruitless Attempt to weather Cape North-The Pre-
secution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year.
On the 2d of July, we steered from Samganoodha, with a
gentle breeze at south-southeast, to the northward, and met
with nothing to obstruct us in that course. For, on the one
side, the isle of Oonalashka tended southwest; and on the
other, no land was visible in a direction more northerly than
northeast; all which land was a continuation of the same
group of islands that we had fallen in with on the 25th of
the preceding month. That which is situated before Sam-
ganoodha, and constitutes the northeastern side of the
pas-
sage through which we came, is denominated Oonella, and
its circumference is about seven leagues. Another island ly-
ing to the northeastward of it, bears the name of Acootan;
it is considerably superior in size to Oonella, and has in it
some very lofty mountains, which were, at this time, covered

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
419
with snow. It appeared, that we might have passed with
great safety between these two islands and the continent,
whose southwestern point opened off the northeastern point
of Acootan, and proved to be the same point of land that we
had discerned when we left the coast of the continent, the
25th of June, to go without the islands. It is termed Oone-
mak by the natives, and is situate in the longitude of 102°
30' east, and in the latitude of 54° 30' north. Over the cape,
which, of itself, is high land, there is a round elevated moun-
tain, at present covered with snow. This mountain bore east
20 north, at six o'clock in the afternoon; and, two hours af-
terwards, no land was to be seen. Concluding, therefore,
that the coast of the continent had now inclined to the north-
eastward, we steered the same course, till one o'clock the
following morning, when the watch stationed upon deck im-
agined they saw land ahead. Upon this we wore; and for the
space of about two hours, stood towards the southwest; after
which we resumed our course to the east-northeast. At six
we discovered land ahead, at the distance of about five
leagues, bearing southeast. As we advanced we descried
more and more land, the whole of which was connected. At
twelve o'clock, we observed that it extended from south-
southwest to east, the part nearest to us being five or six
leagues distant. Our longitude at this time, was 1950 18'
east, and our latitude 550 21' north. At six in the afternoon
we sounded, and found a bottom of black sand at the depth
of forty eight fathoms. We were now four leagues from the
land; and the eastern part in sight was in the direction of
east-southeast, appearing as an elevated round hummock.
On Saturday the 4th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we
saw the coast from south-southwest, and east by south; and
at intervals, we could discern high land, covered with snow,
behind it. Not long after we had a calm; and being in thirty
fathoms water, we caught, with hook and line, a good num-
ber of excellent cod. At twelve we had an easterly breeze
and clear weather; at which time we found ourselves about
six leagues from the land, which extended from south by
west to east by south; and the hummock, seen the preceding
evening, bore southwest by south, at the distance of nine or
ten leagues. A great hollow swell from the west-southwest-
ward, convinced us, that there was no main land, in that di-
rection, near us. We steered a northerly course till six
o'clock in the afternoon, when the wind veering to the south-
east, enabled us to steer east-northeast. The coast lay in this

420
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
direction, and at twelve o'clock on the following day, was at
the distance of about four leagues.
We made but little progress on the 6th and 7th, as the
wind was northerly. In the evening of the latter day, about
eight o'clock, the depth of water was nineteen fathoms, and
we were three or four leagues from the coast, which on
Wednesday the 8th, extended from south-southwest to east
by north, and was all low land, with a ridge of mountains,
covered with snow, behind it. It is not improbable, that this
.
low coast extends to a considerable distance towards the
southwest; and that those places which we sometimes sup-
posed to be inlets or bays, are nothing more than vallies be-
tween the mountains. This day we put our hooks and lines
over, and caught plenty of fine cod.
On the 9th, in the morning, having a breeze at northwest,
we steered east by north, in order to make a nearer approach
to the coast. At noon, we were at the distance of about two
Jeagues from the land, which was observed to extend from
south by east to east-northeast; being all a low coast, with
points projecting in several places, which from the deck, had
the appearance of islands; but from the mast-head, we saw
that low land connected them. We were now in the longi-
tude of 2010 33' east, and in the latitude of 57° 49' north.
In this situation, our soundings were fifteen fathoms, over a
bottom of fine black sand.
In advancing towards the northeast, we had found that
the depth of water gradually decreased, and the coast trend-
ed more and more northerly. But we observed, that the
ridge of mountains behind it, continued to lie in the same di-
rection as those that were more westerly; so that the extent
of the low land, between the coast and the foot of the moun-
tains, insensibly increased. Both the low and high grounds
were totally destitute of wood; but were apparently covered
with a green turf, the mountains excepted, which were in-
volved in snow.
As we proceeded along the coast with a light westerly
breeze, the water shoaled gradually from fifteen to ten fa-
thoms, though we were eight or ten miles distant from the
shore. About eight o'clock in the evening, a lofty mountain
which had been some time within sight, bore southeast by
east, at the distance of twenty-one leagues. Several other
mountains, forming a part of the same chain, and much far-
ther distant, bore east 30 north. The coast was seen to ex-
tend as far as northeast half north, where it seemed to ter-
minate in a point, beyond which it was both our hope and

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
421
a
expectation, that it would assume a more easterly direction.
But not long afterwards, we saw low land, that extended
from behind this point, as far as northwest by west, where
it was lost in the horizon; and behind it we discerned high
land, appearing in hills detached from each other. Thus the
fine
prospect we had of getting to the northward vanished in
an instant. We stood on till nine o'clock, and then the point
before mentioned was about one league distant, bearing north-
east half east. Behind the point is a river, which, at its en-
trance, seemed to be a mile in breadth. The water appeared
somewhat discoloured, as upon shoals; but a calm would
have given it a similar aspect. It seemed to take a winding
direction, through the extensive flat which lies between the
chain of mountains towards the southeast, and the hills to
the north-westward. It doubtless abounds with salmon, as
many of those fish were seen leaping in the sea before the
entrance, and some were found in the maws of cod that we
had caught. The mouth of this river, which we distinguished
by the appellation of Bristol river, is situated in the longi-
tude of 201° 55' east, and in the latitude of 58° 37' north.
At day break, on the 10th, we made sail to the west-south-
west, with a light breeze at northeast. About eleven o'clock
thinking that the coast towards the northwest terminated in a
point, bearing northwest by west, the commodore steered
for that point having ordered the Discovery to keep ahead.
But, before that vessel had run a mile, she made a signal for
shoal water. At that very time we had the depth of seven
fathoms; and before we could get the head of our ship the
;
other way, we had less than five; but the Discovery's sound-
ings were less than four fathoms. We now stood back to the
northeast, three or four miles; but observing that there was
a strong tide setting to the west southwest, that is towards
the shoal, we brought the ships to anchor in about ten fath-
oms, over a sandy bottom. Two hours after we had cast an-
chor, the water had fallen upwards of two feet; which prov-
ed that it was the tide ebb that came from Bristol river.
In the afternoon, at four o'clock, the wind having shifted
to the southwest, we weighed and made sail towards the south,
several boats being occupied ahead in sounding. Having
passed over the south end of the shoal, in six fathoms water,
we afterwards got into thirteen and fifteen; in which last
depth we let go our anchors again, between eight and nine in
the evening: some part of the chain of mountains, on the
south-eastern shore, being in sight, and bearing southeast
half south; and the most westerly land on the other shore

422
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
tance.
bearing northwest. In the course of this day, we had descried
high land, which bore north 600 west, and which we sup-
posed to be about twelve leagues distant.
We weighed anchor the next morning, at two o'clock, with
a gentle breeze at southwest by west, and plied to windward
till nine, when judging the flood-tide to be now against us,
we anchored in twenty-four fathoms water. At one in the
afternoon, the fog, which had this morning prevailed, dis-
persing, and the tide becoming favourable, we weighed
again, and plied to the south-westward. Towards the even-
ing, the wind was extremely variable, and we had some thun-
der: we had heard none before, from the time of our arrival
on the coast; and that which we now heard was at a great dis-
The wind settling again in the southwest quarter, in
the morning of Sunday the 12th, we steered a northwest
course, and, at ten o'clock, saw the continent. At midday,
it extended from northeast by north, to north-northwest a
quarter west, nine or ten leagues distant. This was found to be
an island to which, on account of its figure, captain Cook gave
the name of Round island. It stands in the latitude of 580 37'
north and the longitude of 200 6 'east, and is seven leagues dis-
tant from the continent. At nine in the evening, having steer-
ed a northerly course to within three leagues of the shore, we
tacked in fourteen fathoms water, the extremities of the coast
bearing east-southeast half east, and west.
The wind now veered to the northwest, and enabled us to
stretch along the shore, till two the next morning, when we
suddenly got into six fathoms water, being then six miles
from the land. After we had edged off a little, our depth of
water gradually increased; and, at twelve o'clock, our sound-
ings were twenty fathoms. Round island, at this t me, bore
north 50 east; and the western extreme of the coast was sev-
en leagues distant, bearing north 169 west. It is an elevated
point, to which the appellation of Calm point was given,
from our having calm weather while we were off it. To the
northwestward of Round island, we discerned two or three
hillocks, which had an insular appearance; and perhaps they
may be islands, for we had but a distant prospect of this par-
ticular part of the coast.
We advanced but slowly on the 14th and 15th, having lit-
tle wind, and, at times, a very thick fog. Our soundings
were from twenty-six to fourteen fathoms; and we had pret-
ty good success in fishing, for we caught plenty of cod, and
some flat fish. On Thursday the 16th, at five o'clock in the
morning, the fog clearing up, we found ourselves nearer the

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
423
shore than we expected. Calm Point bore north 72" east,
and a point about eight leagues from it, in a westerly direc-
tion, bore north 3° east, only three miles distant. Betwixt
these two points, the coast forms a bay, in several parts of
which the land could scarcely be seen from the mast-head.
There is another bay on the northwestern side of the last
mentioned point, between it and a high promontory, which
now bore north 36° west, at the distance of sixteen miles.
About nine o'clock, captain Cook despatched lieutenant Wil-
liamson to this promontory, with orders to go ashore, and
observe what direction the coast assumed beyond it, and what
was the produce of the country; which, when viewed from
the ships, had but a steril aspect. We here found the flood-
tide setting strongly towards the northwest, along the coast.
At twelve o'clock, it was high water, and we cast anchor at
the distance of twelve miles from the shore, in twenty-four
fathoms water. In the afternoon, about five, the tide be-
ginning to make in our favour, we weighed, and drove with
it, there being no wind.
Mr. Williamson, at his return, reported, that he had land-
ed on the point, and, having ascended the most elevated hill,
found, that the most distant part of the coast in sight was
nearly in a northerly direction. He took possession of the
country in the name of his Britannic majesty, and left on the
hill a bottle containing a paper, on which the names of our
ships, and of their commanders, and the date of the disco-
very, were inscribed. The promontory, which he named
cape Newenham, is a rocky point, of considerable height;
and stands in the longitude of 197° 36' east, and in the lati-
tude of 58° 42' north. Over it, or within it, two lofty hills
rise one behind the other; of which the innermost, or east-
ermost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr. William-
son could discern, produces not a single tree or shrub. The
hills were naked; but, on the lower grounds, there grew grass
and plants of various kinds, very few of which were at this
time in flower. He met with no other animals than a doe
and her fawn, and a dead sea-horse or cow that lay upon the
beach. Of the latter animal we had lately seen a consider-
able number.
The coast, as we have already mentioned, assuming a
northerly direction from cape Newenham, that cape
is the
northern boundary of the extensive bay and gulf, situate be-
fore the river Bristol, which, in honour of the admiral, earl
of Bristol, received from the commodore the denomination
of Bristol Bay
Cape Oonemak forms the southern limit of
a

424
Á VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
this bay, and is eighty-two leagues distant, in the direction
of south-southwest, from cape Newenham.
A light breeze arising about eight o'clock in the evening,
and setting at south-southeast, we steered to the northwest,
and north-northwest, round cape Newenham; which, at
twelve the following day, was four leagues distant, bearing
south by east. Our soundings, at this time, were seventeen
fathoms; the most advanced land toward the north bore north
300 east; and the nearest part of the coast was three leagues
and a half distant. During the whole afternoon, there was
but little wind; so that, by ten o'clock in the evening, we
had only proceeded three leagues on a northerly course.
We steered north by west till eight o'clock the next morn-
ing, (Saturday the 18th), when, the depth of water suddenly
decreasing to seven and five fathoms, we brought to, till a
boat from each of our ships was sent a-head to sound, and
then steered to the northeast. At noon, the water was
deepened to seventeen fathoms. Cape Newenham was now
eleven or twelve leagues distant, bearing south 99 east; the
northeastern extremity of the land in sight bore north 66°
east: and the distance of the nearest shore was four or five
leagues. Our present latitude was 59° 16' north. Between
cape Newenham and this latitude, the coast consists of low
land and hills, and seemed to form several bays.
Before one o'clock, the boats ahead displayed the signal
of shoai water. They had, indeed, only two fathoms; and,
at the same time, the ships were in six fathoms water. By
hauling more to the north, we continued nearly in the same
depth till between five and six o'clock, when our boats find-
ing less and less water, captain Cook made a signal to the
Discovery, which was then a-head, to cast anchor, and both
ships soon came to. In bringing up the Resolution, her
cable parted at the clinch, so that we were obliged to make
use of the other anchor. We rode in six fathoms water,
over a bottom of sand, at the distance of four or five leagues
from the continent. Cape Newenham now bore south, six-
teen or seventeen leagues distant, the farthest hills we could
perceive towards the north, bore northeast by east; and there
was low land stretching out from the more elevated land, as
far as north by east. Without this there was a shoal of stones
and sand, dry at half ebb. The two masters having been
sent, each in a boat, to sound between this shoal and the
coast, reported, on their return, that there was a channel, in
which the soundings were six and seven fathoms, but that it
was rather narrow and intricate.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
425
a
a
We attempted, at low water, to get a hawser round the
lost anchor, but we did not then meet with success. How-
ever, being resolved not to leave it behind us, while there was
any prospect of recovering it, we persevered in our en-
deavours; and, at length, in the evening of the 20th, we suc-
ceeded. While we were thus occupied, the commodore or-
dered captain Clerke to despatch his master in a boat to search
for a passage in a southwest direction. He accordingly did
so, but no channel was observed in that quarter; nor did it
appear that there was any other way to get clear of the shoals,
than by returning by the same track in which we had enter-
ed. For though, by following the channel we were now in,
we might perhaps have got further down the coast; and
though this channel might probably have carried us at last
to the northward, clear of the shoals, yet the attempt would
have been attended with extreme hazard; and, in case of ill
success, there would have been a great loss of time that we
could not conveniently spare. These reasons induced the
commodore to return by the way which had brought us in,
and thus avoid the shoals.
The longitude of our present station, by lunar observations,
was 197° 45' 48'' east, and the latitude 50° 37' 30" north.
The most northern part of the coast, that we could discern
from this station, was supposed to be situate in the latitude
of 699. It formed, to appearance, a low point, which re-
ceived the name of Shoal Ness. The tide of flood sets to
the northward, and the ebh to the southward: it rises and
falls five or six feet upon a perpendicular: and we reckon that
it is high water at eight o'clock, on the full and change days.
At three in the morning of the 21st, we weighed anchor
with a gentle breeze at north-northwest, and steered back to
the south, having three boats a-head employed in sounding.
Notwithstanding this precaution, we met with greater diffi-
culty in returning than we had found in advancing; and were
at length under the necessity of anchoring, to avoid the dan-
ger of running upon a shoal that had only a depth of five
feet. While we lay at anchor, twenty-seven Americans, each
in a separate canoe, came off to the ships, which they ap-
proached with some degree of caution. As they advanced,
they hollowed and opened their arms; thereby intimating, as
we understood, their peaceable intentions. Some of them,
at last, came near enough to receive a few trifling articles
which we threw to them. This gave encouragement to others
to venture alongside; and a traffic quickly commenced be-
tween them and our people, who obtained wooden vessels,
VOL. I.
3 H

426
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
bows, darts, arrows, dresses of skins, &c. in exchange for
which the natives accepted what ever we offered them. They
appeared to be the same sort of people, with those we had
met with all along this coast; and they wore in their lips and
noses the same species of ornaments, but were not so well
clothed, and were far more dirty. They seemed to be per-
fectly unacquainted with any civilized nation; they were ig-
norant of the use of tobacco; nor did we observe in their
possession any foreign article, unless a knife may be con-
sidered as such. This, indeed, was nothing more than a
piece of common iron fitted in a handle, made of wood, so as
to serve the purpose of a knife. They, however, so well
knew the use and value of this instrument, that it seemed to
be almost the only article they were desirous of.
The hair of most of them was shaved, or cut short off, a
few locks only being left on one side or behind. They wore,
as a covering for their heads, a hood of skins, and a bonnet,
which was seemingly of wood. One part of their dress,
which we procured from them, was a kind of girdle, made
of skin in a very neat manner, with trappings depending from
it and passing betwixt the thighs, so as to conceal the adjacent
parts. From the use of this girdle, it is probable that they
sometimes go in other respects naked, even in this high
northern latitude; for it can scarcely be supposed that they
wear it under their other clothing. Their canoes were co-
vered with skins, like those we had lately seen; but they were
broader, and the hole wherein the person sits was wider than
in any of those we had before met with. Our boats returning
from sounding appeared to give some alarm, so that they all
departed sooner than perhaps they otherwise would have
done.
We did not get clear of the shoals before the evening of
Wednesday the 22d; and then we durst not venture to steer
towards the west during the night, but spent it off
cape
Newenham. At day break, on the 23d, we stood to the
north-westward, the Discovery being ordered to go a-head.
Before we had proceeded two leagues, our soundings de-
creased to six fathoms. Being apprehensive, that, if we con-
tinued this course, we should meet with less and less water,
we hauled to the south, with a fresh easterly breeze. This
course gradually brought us into eighteen fathoms water, up-
on which we ventured to steer a little westerly, and after-
wards due west, when we at length found twenty-six fathoms.
At noon, on the 24th, our longitude by observation, was 1940
22' east, and our latitude 58° 7' north. About three leagues

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
427
.
to the west of this situation, our soundings were twenty-eight
fathoms; and we then steered west-northwest, the depth of
water gradually increasing to thirty-four fathoms. We should
have steered more northerly had not the wind prevented us.
In the evening of Saturday the 25th, having but little wind,
and an exceedingly thick fog, we let go our anchors in thirty
fathoms; our longitude being, at that time, 191° 37' east, and
our latitude 58° 29' north. About six o'clock the next morn-
ing, the weather in some degree clearing up, we weighed,
and with a gentle breeze at east, steered to the northward,
our depth of water being from twenty-five to twenty-eight
fathoms. After we had proceeded on this course for the
space of nine leagues, the wind veered to the north, so that
we were obliged to steer more westerly. The weather, for
the most part, continued to be foggy, till about twelve o'clock
on the 28th, when we had clear sun shine for a few hours,
during which several lunar observations were made. The
mean result of these, reduced to noon, at which time our lat-
itude was 59° 55' north, gave 1900 6' east longitude, and the
time keeper gave 189° 59'.
Continuing our westerly course, we discovered land at
four in the morning of the 29th, bearing northwest by west,
at the distance of six leagues. We stood towards it till be-
tween ten and eleven, when we tacked in twenty-four fath-
oms, being then a league from the land, which bore north-
northwest. It was the southeastern extreme, and formed a
perpendicular cliff of great height; upon which account cap-
tain Cook gave it the name of Point Upright. It stands in
the longitude of 187° 30' east, and in the latitude of 60° 17'
north. More land was perceived to the westward of this
point; and, at a clear interval, we discerned another portion
of high land, bearing west by south; and this seemed to be
perfectly separated from the other. We here observed an
amazing number of birds, such as guillemots, hawks, &c.
During the whole afternoon we had baffling light winds,
which occasioned our progress to be but slow; and the weather
was not sufficiently clear, to enable us to determine the
extent of the land that was before us. We conjectured that
it was one of the many islands laid down in Mr. Stæhlin's
map of the New Northern Archipelago; and we every mo-
ment expected to descry more of them.
On the 30th, at four o'clock in the afternoon, Point Up-
right was six leagues distant, bearing northwest by north.
A light breeze now springing up at north-northwest, we
steered north-eastward till four the next morning, when the

428
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
wind veered to the east; we then tacked, and stood to the
northwest. The wind, not long after, shifting to the south-
east, we steered northeast by north; and continued this course
with soundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till noon
the following day (August 1). Our latitude at this time, was
60° 58' north, and our longitude was 191° east. The wind
now becoming northeasterly, we first made a stretch of
about ten leagues towards the northwest; and then, as we ob-
served no land in that direction, we stood back to the east
for the space of fourteen or fifteen leagues; and met with a
considerable quantity of drift wood. Our depth of water was
from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms.
On Sunday, the 2d of August, variable light winds, with
showers of rain, prevailed the whole day. In the morning of
the 3d, the wind settling in the southeast quarter, we re-
sumed our northward course. At twelve o'clock our sound-
ings were sixteen fathoms, our latitude was 620 34' north,
and longitude 1920 east.
Between three and four o'clock this afternoon, Mr. Ander-
son, surgeon of the Resolution, expired, after he had linger-
ed under a consumption for upwards of a twelvemonth. He
was a sensible, intelligent young man, and an agreeable com-
panion. He had great skill in his profession, and had ac-
quired a considerable portion of knowledge in other depart-
ments of science. Our readers will doubtless have observed
how useful an assistant he had proved in the course of the
voyage; and if his life had been prolonged to a later period,
;
the public might have received from him many valuable
communications respecting the natural history of the differ-
ent places visited by us. Soon after he had resigned his
breath we discovered land to the westward, at the distance
of twelve leagues. We supposed it to be an island; and the
commodore, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for
whom he had a particular esteem, distinguished it by the
name of Anderson's island. The following day Mr. Law,
surgeon of the Discovery, was removed into the Resolution;
and Mr. Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution,
was appointed to succeed Mr. Law as surgeon of the Dis-
covery.
At three in the afternoon, on the 4th, we saw land extend.
ing from north-northeast to northwest. We steered towards
it till four, when being four or five miles distant from it, we
tacked; and not long afterwards, the wind failing, we let go
our anchors in thirteen fathoms over a sandy bottom, at the
distance of about two leagues from land. Our latitude was

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
429
a
now 64° 27' north, and longitude 1949 18 east. We could,
at intervals, discern the coast extending from east to north-
west, and an island of considerable elevation, bearing west
by north, nine miles distant.
The land before us, which we imagined to be the conti-
nent of America, appeared rather low next the sea; but in-
land, it rose in hills, which seemed to be of a tolerable height.
It had a greenish hue, and was apparently destitute of wood
and free from snow. While our ships remained at anchor, we
observed that the tide of flood came from the eastward, and
set to the westward, till between the hours of ten and eleven,
from which time till two o'clock the next morning, the
stream set to the east, and the water fell three feet. The
flood running both longer and stronger than the ebb, we con-
cluded, that there was a westerly current besides the tide.
On Wednesday the 5th, at ten o'clock in the morning, we
ran down, and soon after, anchored between the island and
the continent in seven fathoms. Not long after we had cast
anchor, captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King and some
other officers, landed upon the island. He hoped to have had
from it a prospect of the coast and sea towards the west; but
in that direction, the fog was so thick, that the view was not
more extensive than it was from our ships. The coast of the
continent seemed to incline to the north, at a low point, na-
med by us Point Rodney, which bore from the island north-
west half west, at the distance of three or four leagues; but
the high land, which assumed a more northerly direction,
was perceived at a much greater distance.
The latitude of this island is 64° 30' north and its longi-
tude is 1939 57' east. It is about twelve miles in circumfe-
rence. The surface of the ground principally consists of large
loose stones, covered in many places with moss and other
vegetables, of which twenty or thirty different species were
observed, and most of them were in flower. But the captain
saw not a tree or shrub, either on the island, or upon the
neighbouring continent. Near the beach where he landed,
was a considerable quantity of wild purslain, long-wort,
pease,&c. some of which he took on board for boiling. He
saw several plovers, and other small birds; a fox was also
seen. He met with some decayed huts, built partly under
ground. People had lately been upon the island; and it is
more than probable, that they often repair to it, there being
a beaten path from one end to the other. At a small distance
from that part of the shore where our gentlemen landed,
they found a sledge, which induced captain Cook to give the
a

430
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
island the appellation of Sledge island. It appeared to be
such a one as is used by the Russians in Kamtschatka, for
the purpose of conveying goods from one place to another
over the snow or ice. It was about twenty inches in breadth,
and ten feet in length; had a sort of rail-work on each side,
and was shod with bone. Its construction was admirable,
and its various parts were put together with great neatness;
some with wooden pins, but for the most part with thongs or
lashings of whalebone, in consequence of which, the captain
imagined that it was entirely the workmanship of the natives.
We weighed anchor at three o'clock in the morning of the
Oth, and made sail to the northwest, with a light breeze from
the southward. Having afterwards but little wind, and that
variable, we made but slow progress; and at eight o'clock in
the evening, finding the ships getting into shoal water, we
anchored in seven fathoms, our distance from the coast be-
ing about two leagues. Sledge island then bore south 51
east, nine or ten leagues distant. Soon after we had let go
our anchors, the weather, which had been misty, cleared up,
and we perceived high land extending from north 400 east
to north 30° west, seemingly disjoined from the coast near
which we lay at anchor, which appeared to extend to the
north-eastward. We at the same time saw an island bearing
north 849 west, at the distance of eight or nine leagues. It
seemed to be of small extent, and was named King's island.
We rode at anchor till eight the next morning, when we
weighed, and steered a northwest course. The weather be-
ing clear towards the evening, we obtained a sight of the
northwestern land, distant about three leagues. We passed
the night in making short boards, the weather being rainy
and misty, and the wind inconsiderable. Between four and
five in the morning of the 8th, we again had a sight of the
northwest land; and not long afterwards, having a calm, and
being driven by a current towards the shore, we thought
proper to anchor in twelve fathoms water, at the distance of
about two miles from the coast. Over the western extremity
is a lofty peaked hill, situate in the longitude of 192° 18'
east, and in the latitude of 65° 36' north. A northeasterly
breeze springing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and made
sail to the southeastward, hoping to find a passage between
this northwest land and the coast, near which we had cast
anchor in the evening of the 6th. But we quickly got into
seven fathoms water, and perceived low land connecting the
two coasts and the elevated land behind it.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
431
Convinced that the whole was a continued coast, we now
tacked, and steered for its northwestern part, near which we
anchored in seventeen fathoms. The weather, at present was
very thick and rainy; but at four the next morning, it clear-
ed up, and enabled us to discern the neighbouring land. A
lofty steep rock or island bore west by south; another island
to the northward of it, and considerably larger, bore west by
north; the peaked hill before mentioned, southeast by east;
and the point that was under it, south 320 east. Under this
hill is some low land, extending towards the northwest, the
extreme point of which was now about one league distant,
bearing northeast by east. Over it, and also beyond it, we
observed some high land, which we imagined was a continu-
ation of the continent.
This point of land, which the commodore distinguished by
the name of cape Prince of Wales, is the western extreme
of all America hitherto known. It stands in the longitude of
1910 45' east, and in the latitude of 650 46' north. We fan-
cied that we saw some people on the coast; and perhaps, we
were not mistaken in our supposition, as some elevations
like stages, and others resembling huts, were observed at the
same place.
At eight o'clock this morning, a faint northerly breeze
arising, we weighed anchor: but our sails were scarcely set,
when it began to blow and rain with great violence, there
being at the same time, misty weather. The wind and cur-
rent were in contrary directions; raising such a sea, that it
often broke into the ship. Having plied to windward, with
little effect, till two o'clock in the afternoon, we stood for the
island which we had perceived to the westward, intending to
cast anchor under it till the gale should abate. But, upon our
nearer approach to this land, we found that it was composed
of two small islands, neither of which exceeded three or four
leagues in circumference. As these could afford us little shel-
ter, we did not come to anchor, but continued to stretch to-
wards the west; and about eight o'clock in the evening, we
saw land extending from north-northwest to west by south,
the distance of the nearest part being six leagues. We stood
on till ten o'clock, and then made a board towards the east,
in order to pass the night.
On Monday the 10th, at break of day, we resumed our
westward course for the land seen by us the preceding even-
ing. At eleven minutes after seven o'clock, it extended from
south 72° west, to north 41° east. Betwixt the southwestern
extremity, and a point bearing west, six miles distant, the
a

432
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
their caps,
coast forms a spacious bay, in which we dropped our anchors
at ten in the forenoon, about two miles from the northern
shore, over a gravelly bottom at the depth of ten fathoms.
The northern point of this bay bore north 43° east; its south-
ern point south 58° west; the bottom of the bay, north 604
west, between two and three leagues distant; and the two
islands that we had passed the preceding day, were at the
distance of fourteen leagues, bearing north 12° east,
While we were steering for this bay, we observed on the
north shore, a village and some people, who seemed to have
been thrown into confusion, or fear, at the sight of our ves-
sels. We could plainly perceive persons running up the coun-
try with burdens upon their shoulders. At this village cap-
tain Cook proposed to land; and accordingly, went with three
armed boats, accompanied by some of the officers. Thirty
or forty men, each of whom was armed with a spontoon, a
bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on an eminence near the
houses; three of them came down towards the shore, on the
approach of our gentlemen, and were so polite as to pull off
and make them low bows. Though this civility
was returned, it did not inspire them with sufficient confi-
dence to wait for the landing of our party; for the instant
they put the boats ashore, the natives retired. Captain Cook
followed them alone, without any thing in his hand; and by
signs and gestures, prevailed on them to stop, and accept
some trifling presents: in return for these, they gave him
two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. The captain
was of opinion, that they had brought these articles down
with them for the purpose of presenting them to him; and
that they would have given them to him, even if they had
expected no return.
They seemed very timid and cautious; intimating their de-
sire, by signs, that no more of our people should be suffered
to come up. On the captain's laying his hand on the shoul-
der of one of them, he started back several paces; in propor-
tion as he advanced, they retreated, always in the attitude of
being ready to make use of their spears; while those on the
eminence, were prepared to support them with their arrows.
Insensibly, the captain, and two or three of his companions,
introduced themselves among them. The distribution of a a
few beads among some of them, soon created a degree of
confidence, so that they were not alarmed, when the captain
was joined by a few more of his people; and in a short time,
a kind of traffic was entered into. In exchange for tobacco,
knives, beads, and other articles, they gave a few arrows,


Plate 30
MICH
OF
UNT
Dn
r 22
Bir
The TSCHUKTSCIII, and their HABITATIONS

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
433
a
a
and some of their clothing; but nothing that our people had
to offer, could induce them to part with a spear or a bow,
These they held in continual readiness, never quitting them
except at one time, when four or five persons laid theirs
down, while they favoured our party with a song and a dance;
and even then, they placed them in such a manner, that they
could lay hold of them in a moment.
Their arrows were pointed either with stone or bone, but
very few of them had barbs; and some of them had a round
blunt point. What use these are applied to, we cannot
say, unless it be to kill small animals without damaging the
skin. Their bows were such as we had observed on the
American coast: their spontoons, or spears, were of iron or
steel, and of European or Asiatic workmanship; and con-
siderable pains had been taken to embellish them with carv-
ing, and inlayings of brass, and of a white metal. Those who
stood with bows and arrows in their hands, had the spear
slung by a leathern strap over their right shoulder. A
leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, served to con-
tain arrows; and some of these quivers were exceedingly
beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was very neat
embroidery, and other ornaments. Several other things, and
particularly their clothing, indicated a degree of ingenuity,
far surpassing what any one would expect to find among so
northern a people.
All the Americans we had seen since our arrival on that
coast, had round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones, and
were rather low of stature. The people among whom we
now were, far from resembling them, had long visages, and
were stout and well made: upon the whole, they appeared
to be a very different nation. No women, nor children of
either sex, were observed, nor any aged persons, except one
man, whose head was bald; and he was the only one who
bore no arms: the others seemed to be select men, and rather
under than above the middle age. The elderly man had a
black mark across his face, which was not perceived in any
others; all of them had their ears perforated, and some had
glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed or-
naments seen about them, for they wear none to the lips: this
is another particular, in which they differ from the Ameri-
cans we had lately seen.
Their apparel consisted of a pair of breeches, a cap, a
frock, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of the
skins of deer, dogs, seals, and other animals, and extremely
well dressed; some with the hair or fur on, and others with-
VOL. I.
31

434
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
out it. The caps were made in such a manner, as to fit the
head
very close: and besides these caps, which were worn by
most of them, we procured from them some hoods, made of
dog-skins, that were sufficiently large to cover both head and
shoulders. Their hair was apparently black, but their heads
were either shaved, or the hair cut close off, and none of
them wore beards. Of the few articles which they obtained
from our people, knives and tobacco were what they set the
most value upon.
The village was composed both of their winter and their
summer habitations; the former are exactly like a vault, the
floor of which is sunk below the surface of the earth. One of
them, which captain Cook examined, was of an oval figure,
about twenty feet in length, and twelve or more in height;
the framing consisted of wood, and the ribs of whales, judi-
ciously disposed, and bound together with smaller materials
of the same kind. Over this framing, a covering of strong
coarse grass was laid, and that again was covered with earth;
so that on the outside, the house had the appearance of a lit-
tle hillock, supported by a wall of stone, of the height of
three or four feet, which was built round the two sides, and
one end.
At the other end of the habitation, the earth was
raised sloping to walk up to the entrance, which was by a
hole in the top of the roof, over that end. The floor was
boarded, and under it was a sort of cellar, in which the
сар-
tain saw nothing but water; at the end of each house was a
vaulted room, which he supposed was a store-room. These
store-rooms communicated, by a dark passage, with the
,
house; and with the open air, by a hole in the roof, which
was even with the ground one walked upon; but they cannot
be said to be entirely below ground; for one end extended to
the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which
was built
up
with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry box,
or tower, formed of the large bones of great fish. .
Their summer huts were of a tolerable size, and circular,
being brought to a point at the top. Slight poles and bones,
covered with the skins of sea-animals, composed the fram-
ing. Captain Cook examined the inside of one: there was a
fire-place just within the door, where a few wooden vess els
were deposited, all very dirty. Their bed-places were close
to the side, and occupied about one halt of the circuit: some
degree of privacy seemed to be observed; for there were se-
veral partitions, made with skins. The bed and bedding
consisted of deer-skins, and most of them were clean and
dry
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
435
About the houses were erected several stages, ten or
twelve feet in height, such as we had seen on some parts
of
the American coast. They were composed entirely of bones,
and were apparently intended for drying their fish and skins,
which were thus placed out of the reach of their dogs, of
which they had great numbers. These dogs are of the fox
kind, rather large, and of different colours, with long soft
hair, that resembles wool. They are in all probability, used
for the purpose of drawing their sledges in winter; for it ap-
pears that they have sledges, as the captain saw many of
them laid up in one of their winter huts. It is likewise, not
improbable, that dogs constitute a part of their food, for se-
veral lay dead, which had been killed that morning.
The canoes of these people are of the same kind with
those of the northern Americans, some, both of the large
and small sort, being seen lying in a creek near the village.
From the large bones of fish, and other sea-animals, it ap-
peared, that the sea furnished them with the greater part of
their subsistence. The country seemed extremely barren, as
our gentlemen saw not a tree nor a shrub. At some distance
towards the west, they observed a ridge of mountains covered
with snow, that had fallen not long before.
At first, some of us supposed this land to be a part of the
island of Alaschka, laid down in Mr. Stæhlin's map before-
mentioned; but from the appearance of the coast, the situ-
ation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longi-
tude, we soon conjectured that it was, more probably, the
country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia,
explored by Beering in the year 1728. In admitting this,
however, without farther examination, we must have pro-
nounced Mr. Stæhlin's map, and his account of the new
northern Archipelago, to be either remarkably erroneous,
even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment
which we would not presume to pass, upon a publication so
respectably vouched, without producing the most decisive
proofs.
After our party had remained with these people between
two and three hours, they returned on board; and, soon after,
the wind becoming southerly, we weighed anchor, stood out
of the bay, and steered to the northeast, between the coast
and the two islands. At twelve o'clock the next day (August
11), the former extended from south 80° west, to north 840
west; the latter bore south 40° west, and the peaked hill,
over cape Prince of Wales bore south 36° east. The lati-
tude of the ship was 67° 51' north, the longitude 1919 19

4.36
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
east; our soundings were twenty-eight fathoms; and our po-
sition nearly in the middle of the channel, between the two
coasts, each being at the distance of about seven leagues.
We steered to the eastward from this station, in order to
make a nearer approach to the American coast. In this
course the water gradually shoaled; and there being very lit-
tle wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth fail-
ing, we were obliged at last to cast anchor in six fathoms;
which was the only remedy remaining, to prevent the ships
driving into more shallow water. The nearest part of the
western land bore west, twelve leagues distant; the peaked
mountain over cape Prince of Wales, bore south 16° west;
and the most northern part of the American continent in
sight, east-southeast; the distance of the nearest part being
about four leagues. After we had anchored, a boat was des-
patched to sound, and the water was found to shoal gradually
towards the land. While our ships lay at anchor, which was
from six to nine in the evening, we perceived little or no cur-
rent, nor did we observe that the water rose or fell.
A northerly breeze springing up, we weighed, and made
sail to the westward, which course soon brought us into deep
water; and, during the 12th, we plied to the northward in
sight of both coasts, but we kept nearest to that of America.
On the 13th, at four in the afternoon, a breeze arising at
south, we steered northeast by north, till four o'clock the
next morning, when, seeing no land, we directed our course
east by north; and between the hours of nine and ten, land
appeared, which we supposed was a continuation of the con-
tinent. It extended from east by south, to east by north; and,
not long afterwards, we descried more land, bearing north
by east. Coming rather suddenly into thirteen fathoms water,
at two in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we
again stood in for the land; which, soon after, we saw, ex-
tending from north to southeast, the nearest part being at
the distance of three or four leagues. The coast here forms
a point, named by us Point Mulgrave, which is situated in
the latitude of 67° 45' north, and in the longitude of 1949
51' east. The land seemed to be very low near the sea,
but
a little farther it rises into hills of a moderate height; the
whole was free from snow, and apparently destitute of wood.
We now tacked, and bore away northwest by west; but, in
a short time afterwards, thick weather with rain coming on,
and the wind increasing, we hauled more to the westward.
A two o'clock the next morning, the wind veered to south-
west by south, and blew a strong gale, which abated towards

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
437
noon. We now stood to the northeast, till six the next
morning, when we steered rather more easterly: in this
run,
we met with several sea-horses, and great numbers of birds;
some of which resembled sand-larks, and others were not
larger than hedge-sparrows. We also saw some shags, so
that we judged we were not far from land; but, having a
thick fog, we could not expect to see any; and as the wind
blew strong, it was not deemed prudent to continue a course
which was most likely to bring us to it. From the noon of
this day (the 16th of August), to six o'clock in the morning
of the following, we steered east by north; a course which
brought us into fifteen fathoms water. We now steered
northeast by east, thinking, by such a course, to increase
our depth of water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoal-
ed to eleven fathoms, which induced us to haul close to the
wind, that now blew at west. About twelve o'clock, both sun
and moon were clearly seen at intervals, and we made some
hasty observations for the longitude; which, reduced to noon,
when the latitude was 70° 33' north, gave 197° 41' east. The
time-keeper, for the same time, gave 1989.
Some time in the afternoon, we perceived a brightness in
the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, usually
called the blink. Little notice was taken of it, from a sup-
position that it was improbable we should so soon meet with
ice. The sharpness of the air, however, and gloominess of
the weather, for the two or three preceding days, seemed to
indicate some sudden change. About an hour afterwards, the
sight of an enormous mass of ice, left us no longer in any
doubt respecting the cause of the brightness of the horizon.
Between two and three o'clock, we tacked close to the edge
of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the
latitude of 70° 41' north, and unable to stand on any farther;
for the ice was perfectly impenetrable, and extended from
west by south to east by north, as far as the eye could reach.
Here we met with great numbers of sea horses, some of
which were in the water, but far more upon the ice. The
commodore had thought of hoisting out the boats to kill
some of these animals; but, the wind freshening, he gave up
the design; and we continued to ply towards the south, or
rather towards the west, for the wind came from that quar-
ter. We made no progress; for, at twelve on the 18th, our
latitude was 70° 44' north, and we were almost five leagues
farther to the east.
We
were, at present, close to the edge of the ice, which
was as compact as a wall, and appeared to be at least ten or

438
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
twelve feet in height; but, farther northward, it seemed to
be much higher. Its surface was exceedingly rugged, and, in
several places, we saw pools of water upon it. We now
stood to the south, and, after running six leagues, shoaled
the water to seven fathoms; but it soon increased to the
depth of nine fathoms. At this time, the weather, which had
been hazy, becoming clearer, we saw land extending from
south to southeast by east, at the distance of three or four
miles. The eastern extremity forms a point, which was
greatly encumbered with ice, on which account it was dis-
tinguished by the name of Icy cape. Its latitude is 70° 29'
north, and its longitude 198° 20' east. The other extreme of
the land was lost in the horizon; and we had no doubt of its
being a continuation of the continent of America. The Dis-
covery being about a mile astern, and to leeward, met with
less depth of water than we did; and tacking on that account,
the commodore was obliged to tack also, to prevent sepa-
ration.
Our present situation was very critical. We were upon a
lee-shore in shoal water; and the main body of the ice to
windward, was driving down upon us. It was evident, that
if we continued much longer between it and the land, it
would force us ashore, unless it should chance to take the
ground before us. It appeared almost to join the land to lee-
ward, and the only direction that was free from it, was to the
south-westward. After making a short board to the north,
captain Cook made a signal for the Discovery to tack, and
his ship tacked at the same time. The wind proved in some
measure favourable, so that we lay up southwest, and south-
west by west.
On Wednesday the 19th, at eight in the morning, the wind
veering to west, we tacked to the northward; and, at twelve,
the latitude was 70° 6' north, and the longitude 196° 42
In this situation, we had a considerable quantity of
drift ice about our ships, and the main ice was about two
leagues to the north. Between one and two, we got in with
the edge of it. It was less compact than that which we had
observed towards the north; but it was too close, and in too
large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. We
saw an amazing number of sea-horses on the ice, and as we
were in want of fresh provisions, the boats from each ship
were despatched to procure some of them. By seven in the
evening, we had received, on board the Resolution, nine of
these animals; which, till this time, we had supposed to be
sea-cows; so that we were greatly disappointed, particularly
east.

A VOYAGE TO TIE PACIFIC OCEAN.
439
some of the sailors, who, on account of the novelty of the
thing, had been feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor
would they now have been disappointed, nor have known the
difference, if there had not been two or three men on board,
who had been in Greenland, and declared what animals these
were, and that no person ever eat of them. Notwithstanding
this, we made them serve us for provisions, and there were
few of our people who did not prefer them to our salt meat.
The fat of these animals is, at first, as sweet as marrow;
but in a few days, it becomes rancid, unless it is salted, in
which state it will keep much longer. The lean flesh is
coarse and blackish, and has a strong taste; and the heart is al-
most as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when melted,
affords a good quantity of oil, which burns very well in
lamps; and their hides, which are of great thickness, were
very useful about our rigging. The teeth or tusks of most
of them were, at this time, of a very small size; even some
of the largest and oldest of these animals, had them not ex-
ceeding half a foot in length. Hence we concluded, that
they had lately shed their old teeth.
They lie
upon
the ice in herds of many hundreds, hud-
dling like swine, one over the other; and they roar very loud;
so that in the night, or when the weather was foggy, they
gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before we could dis-
cern it. We never found the whole herd sleeping, some of
them being constantly upon the watch. These, on the ap-
proach of the boat, would awake those that were next to
them;and the alarm being thus gradually communicated,
the whole herd would presently be awake. However, they
were seldom in a hurry to get away, before they had been
once fired at. Then they would fall into the sea, one over
the other in the utmost confusion; and, if we did not happen,
at the first discharge, to kill those we fired at, we generally
lost them, though mortally wounded.
They did not appear to us to be so dangerous as some
authors have represented them, not even when they were at-
tacked. They are, indeed, more so, in appearance, than in
reality. Vast multitudes of them would follow, and come
close up to the boats; but the flash of a musket in the
pan,
or even the mere pointing of one at them, would send them
down in a moment. The female defends her young one to
the very last, and at the expense of her own life, whether
upon the ice or in the water. Nor will the young one quit
the dam, though she should have been killed; so that, if you
destroy one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in

440
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
the water, holds her young one between her fore fins. Mr.
Pennant, in his Synopsis of Quadrupeds, has given a very
good description of this animal under the name of the Arc-
tic Walrus. Why it should be called a sea-horse, is difficult
to determine, unless the word be a corruption of the Russian
name Morse; for they do not in the least resemble a horse.
It is, doubtless, the same animal that is found in the gulf
of St. Lawrence, and there called a sea-cow. It is certainly
more like a cow than a horse; but this resemblance consists
in nothing but the snout. In short, it is an animal not un-
like a seal, but incomparably larger. The length of one of
them, which was none of the largest, was nine feet four inch-
es from the snout to the tail; the circumference of its body
at the shoulder, was seven feet ten inches; its circumference
near the hinder fins was five feet six inches, and the weight
of the carcass without the head, skin, or entrails, was eight
hundred and fifty-four pounds. The head weighed forty-one
pounds, and a half, and the skin two hundred and five
pounds.
It may not be improper to remark, that, for some days be-
fore this time, we had often seen flocks of ducks flying to
the south. They were of two species, the one much larger
than the other. The larger sort was of a brown colour; and
of the small sort, either the duck or drake was black and
white, and the other brown. Some of our people said
that they also saw geese. This seems to indicate, that there
must be land to the northward, where these birds, in proper
season, find shelter for breeding, and whence they were now
,
on their return to a warmer climate.
Soon after we had got our sea-horses on board, we were,
in a manner, surrounded with the ice; and had no means of
clearing it, but by steering to the southward, which we did
till three o'clock the next morning, with a light westerly
breeze, and, in general, thick, foggy weather. Our sound-
ings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We then tacked
and stood to the northward till ten o'clock, when the wind
shifting to the north, we stood to the west-southwest and
west. At two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice,
and kept along the edge of it, being partly directed by the
roaring of the sea-horses, for we had an exceeding thick fog.
Thus we continued sailing till near midnight, when we got
in among the loose pieces of ice.
The wind being easterly, and the fog very thick, we now
hauled to the southward; and, at ten the next morning, the
weather clearing up, we saw the American continent, extend-
a

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
442
ing from south by east, to east by south; and, at noon,
,
from southwest half south to east, the distance of the near-
est part being five leagues. We were at present in the lati-
tude of 69° 32' north, and in the longitude of 195° 48' east;
and, as the main ice was not far from us, it is evident, that
it now covered a part of the sea; which, a few days before,
had been free from it; and that it extended farther towards
the south, than where we first fell in with it.
During the afternoon we had but little wind; and the mas-
ter was sent in a boat to observe whether there was any cur-
rent, but he found none. We continued to steer for the Ameri-
can land till eight o'clock, in order to obtain a nearer view
of it, and to search for a harbour; but seeing nothing that
had the appearance of one, we again stood to the north, with
a gentle westerly breeze. At this time the coast extended
from southwest to east, the nearest part being at the dis-
tance of four or five leagues. The southern extreme seemed
to form a point, to which the name of cape Lisburne was
given. It is situate in the latitude of 69° 5' north, and in
the longitude of 194° 42' east, and appeared to be tolerably
high land, even down to the sea, but there may be low land
under it, which we might not then see, being not less than
ten leagues distant from it. In almost every other part, as
we advanced to the north, we had found a low coast, from
which the land rises to a moderate height. The coast now
before us was free from snow, except in one or two places,
and had a greenish hue. But we could not discern any
wood upon it.
On Saturday the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the
weather for the most part foggy, with some intervals of sun-
shine. At eight in the evening, we had a calm, which continu-
ed till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sca dashing
against the ice, and had many loose pieces about us. A
light breeze now arose at northeast, and the fog being very
thick, we steered to the south to get clear of the ice. At
eight the next morning, the fog dispersed, and we hauled
towards the west; for the commodore finding that he could
not get to the north near the coast, by reason of the ice, re-
solved to try what could be done at a distance from it; and
as the wind seemed to be fixed at the north, he considered it
as a favourable opportunity.
In our progress to the westward, the water gradually
deepened to twenty-eight fathoms. With the northerly wind
the air was sharp and cold; and we had fogs, sun-shine,
showers of snow and sleet alternately. On the 26th, at ten
VOL. I.
3 K

442
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
in the morning, we fell in with the ice. At twelve, it ex-
tended from northwest to east by north, and seemed to be
thick and compact. We were now, by observation, in the
latitude of 696 36' north, and in the longitude of 1849 east;
and it now appeared that we had no better prospect of getting
to the north here than nearer the shore.
We continued steering to the west, till five in the after-
noon, when we were, in some degree, embayed by the ice,
which was very close in the northwest and northeast quar-
ters, with a great quantity of loose ice about the edge of the
main body. At this time, we had baffling light airs, but the
wind soon settled at south, and increased to a fresh gale,
accompanied with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard,
and stretched to the east, as this was the only direction in
which the sea was free from ice. On Thursday the 27th at
four in the morning, we tacked and stood to the westward,
and at seven o'clock in the evening, we were close in with
the edge of the ice, which lay east-northeast, and west-
southwest, as far in each of those directions, as the eye
could reach. There being but little wind, captain Cook
went with the boats, to examine the state of the ice. He
found it consisting of loose pieces, of various extent, and so
close together, that he could scarcely enter the outer edge
with the boat; and it was as impracticable for the ships to en-
ter it, as if it had been so many rocks. He particularly remark-
ed, that it was all true transparent ice, except the upper sur-
face, which was rather porous. It seemed to be wholly
composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at
For, not to insist on the improbability of such prodig-
ious masses floating out of rivers, none of the productions of
the land were found incorporated, or mixed in it, which
would certainly have been the case, if it had been formed in
rivers, either great or small.
The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the main
body, were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or
five; and the captain judged that the larger pieces reached
thirty feet or more, under the surface of the water. He also
thought it highly improbable, that this ice could have been
the production of the preceding winter alone. He was
rather inclined to suppose it to have been the production of
many winters. It was equally improbable, in his opinion,
that the little that now remained of the summer, could de-
stroy even the tenth part of what now subsisted of this great
mass; for the sun had already exerted upon it the full force
and influence of his rays. The sun, indeed, according to his
sea.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
443
judgment, contributes very little towards reducing these en-
ormous masses. For though that luminary is above the ho-
rizon a considerable while, it seldom shines out for more
than a few hours at a time, and frequently is not seen for
several successive days.
It is the wind, or rather the waves raised by the wind,
that brings down the bulk of these prodigious masses, by
grinding one piece against another, and by undermining
and washing away those parts which are exposed to the surge
of the sea. This was manifest, from the captain's observing,
that the upper surface of many pieces had been partly wash-
ed a way, while the base, or under part, continued firm for
several fathoms round that which appeared above water, like
a shoal round a high rock. He measured the depth of water
upon one, and found that it was fifteen feet, so that the ships
might have sailed over it. If he had not measured this
depth, he would have been unwilling to believe, that there was
a sufficient weight of ice above the surface, to have sunk the
other so much below it. It may thus happen, that more ice
is destroyed in one tempestuous season, than is formed in
several winters, and an endless accumulation of it is prevent-
ed. But that there is constantly a remaining store, will be
acknowledged by every one who has been upon the spot.
A thick fog which came on while the commodore was thus
employed, hastened him with the boats aboard sooner than
he could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. Our
party had killed many, but could not wait to bring them off.
The number of these animals, on all the ice that we had
seen, is really astonishing. We spent the night standing off
,
and on, amongst the drift ice, and at nine o'clock the next
morning, the fog having in some degree dispersed, boats
from each of the ships were despatched for sea-horses; for
our people by this time began to relish them, and those we
had before furnished ourselves with, were all consumed. At
noon, our latitude was 69° 17' north, our longitude 183°
east, and our depth of water was twenty-five fathoms. At
two in the afternoon, having got on board as many sea-
horses as were deemed sufficient, and the wind freshening at
south-southeast, we hoisted in the boats, and steered to the
southwest. But being unable to weather the ice upon this
tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the eastward,
till about eight o'clock; then resumed our course to the
southwest, and were obliged before midnight to tack again,
on account of the ice. Not long after, the wind veering to

444
A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
a
the northwest, and blowing a stiff gale, we stretched to the
southwest, close hauled,
On the 29th, in the morning, we saw the main ice towards
the north, and soon after perceived land bearing southwest
by west. In a short time after this more land was seen
bearing west. It showed itself in two hills resembling islands,
but soon the whole appeared connected. As we made a
nearer approach to the land, the depth of water decreased
very fast, so that, at twelve o'clock, when we tacked, we
found only eight fathoms, being three miles from the coast,
which extended from south 300 east, to north 60° west; the
latter extremity terminating in a bluff point, being one of the
hills mentioned before.
The weather was now very hazy, with drizzling rain; but,
soon afterwards, it cleared up, particularly to the southward,
westward, and northward. This enabled us to have a tolera-
ble view of the coast; which resembles, in every respect, the
opposite coast of America; that is, low land next the sea,
with higher land farther back. It was totally destitute of
wood, and even of snow; but was, probably covered with a
mossy substance, that gave it a brownish hue. In the low
ground that lay between the sea and the high land, was a
lake, extending to the south-eastward farther than we could
As we stood off, the most westerly of the two hills
above mentioned, came open off the bluff point, in a north-
west direction. It had the appearance of an island, but it
might perhaps be connected with the other by low land,
though we did not see it. And if that be the case, there is a
,
two-fold point, with a bay between them. This point, which
is rocky and steep, received the name of cape North. It is
situated nearly in the latitude of 68° 56' north, and in the
longitude of 180° 51' east. The coast beyond it doubtless
assumes a very westerly direction; for we could discern no
land to the northward of it, though the horizon was there
pretty clear. Wishing to see more of the coast to the west-
ward, we tacked again, at two in the afternoon, thinking we
should be able to weather cape North; but finding we could
not, the wind freshening, a thick fog arising, with much
snow, and being apprehensive of the ice coming down upon
us, the commodore relinquished the design he had formed of
plying to the westward, and again stood off shore.
The season was now so far advanced, and the time when
the frost generally sets in was so near, that captain Cook did
not think it consistent with prudence, to make any farther
see.

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
445
attempts to discover a passage into the Atlantic Ocean this
year, in any direction, so small was the probability of suc-
cess. His attention was now directed to the search of some
place, where we might recruit our wood and water; and the
object that principally occupied his thoughts was, how he
should
pass the winter, so as to make some improvements in
navigation and geography, and at the same time, be in a con-
dition to return to the northward the ensuing summer, to
prosecute his search of a passage into the Atlantic.
END OF VOLUME ONE.






1.
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P
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1817
ARTES
SCIENTIA
LIBRARY VERITAS
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
TCEBOR
AM AMENAM
ICE
SS SOOS
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