CUNYNGUAMES
TRAVELS MIN
TIN BASTURN
CAUCASUS:
DK
503.
A 539567
DUPL
t
end
•OTAZY, in puttin
ANAS
¿
J'A
ME
A
JAMAIS
Waller Charlos Jamos.
毒
​品
​MORRELL BINDER
FRITH
03
INT
HOME Wesindajana trati |østosfri(190
dak kaitomknite zu aktEVA1929999
SILAS WRIGHT DUNNING
LIELDIEŃney makes ad
、.་
JBL
BEQUEST
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
********, ***—
GENERAL LIBRARY
MAGNÍ.
Narratisung itu.
ALLTIMÉAnnui
wait
-hu
DK
511
, сі
са
пат
From the Author
つ
​با اله
OF
MIC
CH.
WA
KASBEC, ABOVE THE PASS OF DARIEL.
[Frontispiece.
TRAVELS
IN THE
EASTERN CAUCASUS,
ON THE
CASPIAN AND BLACK SEAS, ESPECIALLY IN DAGHESTAN,
AND ON THE FRONTIERS OF PERSIA AND TURKEY,
DURING THE SUMMER OF 1871.
BY
Augusters
LIEUT.-GEN. SIR ARTHUR THURLOW CUNYNGHAME,
A
K.C.B., F.R.G.S.,
OFFICER OF THE LEGION OF HONOUR, SECOND CLASS OF THE IMPERIAL
ORDER OF THE MEDJIDIE,
AUTHOR OF "AN AIDE-DE-CAMP'S RECOLLECTION OF SERVICE IN CHINA,'
OF THE GREAT WESTERN REPUBLIC."
ILLUSTRATED
WITH MAPS.
BY HENRY HARDINGE CUNYNGHAME,
ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.
LONDON:
""
"C
AND A GLIMPSE
1872.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
96
S
LONDON:
BRADBURY, EVANS, AND CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.
ΤΟ
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
GEORGE, DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE, K.G., G.C.B., K.P., G.C.M.G.,
IN MEMORY OF DANGERS UNDERGONE IN THE SAME FIELD
DURING THE CRIMEAN WAR,
AND IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF MUCH KINDNESS AND CONSIDERATION,
THIS BOOK, BY PERMISSION, IS
Dedicated.
0
~
#
Dunnin
21
A
b
ه
La C
5-1-42
45134
PREFACE.
THE following pages merely profess to be a record
of summer travel. No pretence is made to give a com-
plete account of the countries passed through, nor to
elaborate theories respecting them. The author has
endeavoured to play the part of an observer, rather than
that of the politician-to relate rather what he has seen
than what he supposes to record facts, not to labour to
account for them. Some information respecting them
will be found here.
A special interest attaches to some of the subjects
which have fallen under the author's observation in this
tour.
The Fortifications on the Black Sea have lately at-
tracted much attention.
With the gradual extinction of the Kalmuck settle-
ments, the last remnants of heathen Idolatry in Europe.
will probably soon disappear.
vi
PREFACE.
The Library at the Armenian convent at Etchmiazin,
on the borders of Persia and Turkey, but recently ren-
dered accessible, will not only throw great light on the
ancient history of Turkey and Armenia, but will no
doubt supply from its very ancient manuscripts new
readings of disputed passages in the Bible.
B
At present the question of ancient village commu-
nities is under keen discussion. A considerable part of
the book is devoted to travel in the villages in the
Caucasus, where some of the most ancient communities
exist. The author, therefore, hopes that those who
are studying such subjects will find in this work
some points of interest, and that the description of the
scene of Shamyl's patriotism and valour will also be
acceptable.
M
But it is to the general reader and lover of travel that
the book is principally addressed. It was written amid
the scenes which it describes-often in waggons, some-
times on horseback, but never in leisure or comfort.
The writer, therefore, begs for indulgence towards his
many faults.
The drawings were executed by his son
on the spot, some in colours and neutral tint, some in pen
and pencil. It is sufficient to mention Mr. Whymper's
name in connection with them to invite attention to
PREFACE.
vii
the admirable treatment they have since received at
his hands.
Should this account excite a desire in any lover of
sport or travel to visit the Caucasus, the author will
feel that his labour has been rewarded; but failing
this, he must hope to render pleasant a few fireside
hours.
In conclusion, he wishes to acknowledge his gratitude
to the Russian military and civil officials, who did so
much to render his tour agreeable, and without whose
assistance it would have been utterly impossible.
PROPOSED ROUTE
LONDON TO COLOGNE
COLOGNE TO VIENNA
VIENNA
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
THE CAMP OF BRUCK —THE AUSTRIAN CAMP OF EXERCISE NEAR
VIENNA
CHAPTER VI.
PESTH AND BASIASCH-THE TERMINATION OF THE RAILWAY ON THE
DANUBE.
CHAPTER VII.
ON THE DANUBE-PASSING THROUGH THE IRON GATES
CHAPTER VIII.
DOWN THE DANUBE TO KALAFAT AND RUSTCHUK.
CHAPTER IX.
TO BUCHAREST, BY GIURGIEVO
•
PAGE
1
4
10
16
22
28
34
40
46
X
CONTENTS.
BUCHAREST, THE CAPITAL OF ROUMANIA
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER XI.
SCHUMLA-OSMAN
PASHA AND THE SULTAN'S TROOPS-REMARKS
UPON THE FORTIFICATIONS
VARNA, ON THE BLACK SEA.
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XIII.
•
STEAMER TO CONSTANTINOPLE-REMARKS REGARDING STEAM COM-
MUNICATION, ETC.
CHAPTER XIV.
CONSTANTINOPLE-THE SERPENT OF BRASS
CHAPTER XV.
ODESSA, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE PORT
CHAPTER XVI.
NICOLAEF SOME ACCOUNT OF THE DOCKS, AND REMARKS UPON THE
PROSPECT OF PRODUCING IRONCLADS, ETC.
SEBASTOPOL AND ITS RUINS .
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CRIMEA-THE JOURNEY FROM YALTA, WITH A FEW WORDS RE-
SPECTING THE PALACE OF LAVADIA, ETC.
•
CHAPTER XVIII.
•
PAGE
49
CHAPTER XIX.
BALACLAVA
THE TARTAR PALACE, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS
STATE DURING THE WAR
59
66
71
75
83
90
95
. 101
106
CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTER XX.
THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN—A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE BATTLE
CHAPTER XXI.
THE FIELDS OF INKERMAN AND THE CAVES, CHAPEL, ETC.
CHAPTER XXII.
KERTCH, WITH REMARKS REGARDING THE RECENTLY ERECTED FOR-
TIFICATIONS
CHAPTER XXIII.
SEA OF AZOF, AND OBSERVATIONS ON TAGANROG
CHAPTER XXIV.
ON THE DON AND THE DON COSSACKS
•
CHAPTER XXV.
ON THE VOLGA, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE BHUDDIST TEMPLE OF
THE KALMUCKS
CHAPTER XXVI.
ASTRAKHAN, AT THE MOUTH OF THE VOLGA.
CHAPTER XXVIII. ·
ASTRAKHAN, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE KREMLIN
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT ON THE WESTERN BANK OF THE VOLGA
-AN ACCOUNT OF THE RELIGIOUS RITES, ETC.
•
•
•
· 140
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE CASPIAN SEA-
SEA-OBSERVATIONS ON ITS DEPTH, AND GENERALLY
REGARDING IT
•
PAGE
112
119
127
134
145
150
154
164
166
xii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXX.
PETROLVKS AND TSURA-THE MARCH INTO DAGHESTAN
CHAPTER XXXI.
FROM TSURA TO GUINIB-THE STRONGHOLD OF SHAMYL, WITH AN
ACCOUNT OF THE ROUTE TO IT
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE FORT OF GUINIB-SHAMYL'S LAST STRUGGLE
CHAPTER XXXIII.
HONSAK AND BODLITH-RECEPTION BY THE GENERALS IN COMMAND
AT THESE STATIONS
CHAPTER XXXIV.
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DEFEAT OF
PRINCE WORONZOFF BY THE CIRCASSIANS
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE FORT OF WEDDEN-THE PRISON
THE PRISON OF THE PRINCESS CHAFCHE-
VADSY
•
•
CHAPTER XXXVI.
FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS-SHOOTING IN THE MOUNTAINS-
IBEX, RED DEER, ETC.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
•
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
. 191
Madag
PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC—A DESCRIPTION OF THIS MAG-
NIFICENT MOUNTAIN
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE CITY OF TIFLIS, THE CAPITAL OF GEORGIA
THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL, GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE CAUCASUS.
PAGE
175
183
200
216
227
234
243
252
257
CONTENTS.
KAJORI—A MOUNTAIN RETREAT FROM TIFLIS
CHAPTER XL.
CHAPTER XLI.
TIFLIS TO ERIVAN-FIRST VIEW OF MOUNT ARARAT
CHAPTER XLII.
ERIVAN-ACCOUNT OF THE FORT-THE MOSQUE-BAZAARS, ETC.
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE CONVENT OF ETCHMIAZIN NEAR MOUNT ARARAT
THE TURKISH FRONTIER-RECEPTION AT SARDARABAT
CHAPTER XLIV.
THE RUSSIAN ARMY
CHAPTER XLV.
FROM ALEXANDROPOL TO BORJOME- REMARKS ON THE
THE FORT OF
ALEXANDROPOL AND THE FORT OF ALHATSHIKH
CHAPTER XLVI.
BORJOME-THE COUNTRY PALACE OF THE GRAND DUKE
·
•
CHAPTER XLVII.
POTI AND ITS RAILWAY-REMARKS UPON THE ROADSTEAD AND RIVER
RION
•
CHAPTER XLIX.
GEORGIA UNDER THE RUSSIANS-ITS DEVELOPMENT, ETC.
CHAPTER XLVIII.
TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS-GENERAL REMARKS UPON-ROUTE
UPON
TO BE CHOSEN, ETC.
CHAPTER L.
•
•
•
Xili
PAGE
262
271
. 292
276
283
299
307
313
319
329
334
xiv
CONTENTS.
SPORTING IN THE CAUCASUS, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE
AND PLACES TO FIND IT
RETURN TO ENGLAND
4
CHAPTER LI.
ON THE BLACK SEA HOMEWARDS
APPENDIX
CHAPTER LII.
CHAPTER LIII.
GAME
PAGE
338
343
350
357
KASBEC
MAP OF CAUCASUS AND DHAGESTAN.
ANCIENT TURKISH BATHS AT PESTH
ROUGH COUNTRY CART, ORSOVA
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
TURKISH AQUEDUCT NEAR MEHADIA
RECEPTION BY MUSHIR PASHA AT SCHUMLA
COLUMN IN THE MOSQUE OF SULIMAN
MALAKOFF
SCUTARI-THE TURKISH BARRACK, HOSPITAL,
BARRACK, HOSPITAL, AND MONUMENT
BRITISH SOLDIERS
THE CITY OF SEBASTOPOL AS IT NOW IS.
STUCK ON A SANDBANK UP THE don
MOONLIGHT, ASTRAKHAN
PASS NEAR GUINIB
THE BRAZEN SERPENT FROM DELPHI, NOW AT CONSTANTINOPLE
(To fuce)
C
PASS NEAR GUINIB
·
SHAMYL'S VILLAGE, GUINIB
TARTAR HOUSE, CHOK
·
•
•
•
·
·
Frontispiece.
•
(To face)
(To face)
•
ΤΟ
(To face)
(To face)
·
PAGE
1
29
35
38
62
70
75
76
96
110
142
152
186
198
199
201
xvi
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
ON RIVER OOR, INKULLUK
A LESGHIAN SOLDIER
PASS OF DARIEL
CONVENT CHURCH NEAR KASBEC
TIFLIS, THE CAPITAL OF GEORGIA
THE MOSQUE AND BATHS AT ERIVAN, WITH MOUNT ARARAT IN THE
BACKGROUND .
A CASTLE NEAR KIRKLISS
TREBIZONDE
QUARANTINE
•
GENERAL MAP--AUTHOR'S ROUTE
T
•
278
PORCH OF THE CHURCH AT ETCHMIAZIN, FOUNDED A.D. 300 (To face) 285
303
345
353
(At the end)
•
PAGE
211
223
244
250
(To face) 257
را / ۲۱
U
OF
13
12
זיין'
E.Weller, Lithag" ·
M KAZBER
VLADI KAUKAS
MOZDOK
R. Terek
all
MI
MED
Dushet
Viru
Inc
Tajor.
Atifa
Samarki
Aragua
Valla.
Nasaou
they
tia.
Talryda
45
TIFLIS
Angst
M. Borbalo
Kur
R. Terek
445
Wilk
„Aliu, Mimoi
Withi
Telavi
ZARN
Military
Grosnaya
Yora R.
duígg
Post Road
osdvishensk
!!!
105
M
mot pou
W
Argun R.
22
Alazon R.
A
4.6
Aseuri
Signagh
MILAN
Atsilams
Violy
ar
Mahasu
16
Veden
HITI
Bodlitha
Mitg
www
Andish
SUR.
Cards
Aksai
Gaill
www V
VANIE
Mooroon
KIZLAR
Inkulluck
Avarsh
Miggin
Vnesapnaya
Clock
3S
www.
Honsai
Hot
20
ZAMIS
ontla
Zakatáli
10
AVAR
Karadat
MA
47
R. Terek
London, John Murray, Albemarle Street.
Gun
R.Sulak (Koisu)
ši päällä,
4.7
MUDDY
Aimake
Girgibil
ZOOMOOK
Tamgoiday
Kafirkurik
Temirkhanshura
Koabacki
RAND
Kois
*!!!
?
Die
Jam
Atlaboo
ZAGUN
Petrolvks
R.Manas
ATMAYUR
Վ
witte
STEAMER - ROUTE
filmite
www
emi
To Astrakhan, 230 Miles
MMY
F
EASTERN CAUCASUS
CASPIAN
زدار بازند
*}}}}!!**
Scale- 1,520,000, or about 24 Eng Miles to linch.
English Miles
20
30
40
Russian Versts, 37 to 1 inch.
Ll
20
30
40
50
www.
in
48
„tillií,
MARAPAN
P
Wwwww
including
DAGHESTAN.
YAYAYAY
Sammantic
Litt
MAP OF THE
aur jill
hiiv/
48
Heights of Mountains.
M: Elborutz 18,572 f
Kazbek, 16,546 „
11 Borbalo 10,801 „
"}
Ararat 16,916 „
13
(M: Blanc)... 15,784
ROUTE FOLLOWED BY THE AUTHOR.
R. Samur
ܐ ܐ ܐ ܐ ܐ ܐ ܐ ؛
Komiss
SEA
ار
DERBEND
w
DEPUN
43
42
MIC
1
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS
AND ON THE
CASPIAN AND BLACK SEAS.
CHAPTER I.
PROPOSED ROUTE.
I DETERMINED to devote the summer of 1871 to travelling.
Various circumstances, including official duties, had for many
past years forbidden me this indulgence. I was anxious, more-
over, to give to my son, who was pursuing his studies at Cam-
bridge, the opportunity of accompanying me, that, by an entire
relaxation during the summer months from his laborious occupa-
tions, he might have a perfect rest of mind, if not of body.
The question arose as to what part of the world we should
visit; we wished to visit a new and untravelled country; while,
at the same time, our absence from home was restricted to the
period of the College vacation.
After mature consideration, we determined that the Caspian
and the Caucasus were perhaps the only fields which would fulfil
these conditions, and which would also afford me the opportunity
of revisiting the Crimea, and of introducing my son to that inte-
resting locality.
Having come to this decision, we had to consider what could
be accomplished in the time allowed to us; so that, on the one
B
26
2
[CHAP. I.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
hand, we might embrace as extended a field as possible in our
expedition, and on the other, that we might devote to each object
and place such an amount of time, as would allow us to take notes
of, and remember any points of interest. It was requisite to
sketch out, not only the general features of our tour, but, with
some detail, the time we could allow for each of the principal
divisions of it, as we could only be abroad from about the middle
of June to the middle of October.
I was inclined to think that with diligence and good health we
could visit Vienna, Bucharest, Varna, Constantinople, then Odessa
and the Crimea, thence the Caucasus, either entering it by
Southern Russia, or direct by Imeretia, and, on our return, we
might visit some of the cities on the southern coast of the Black
Sea. At first sight, many persons would be inclined to think that
in our anticipations we had embraced a field far too extended,
and such as would allow us to do no more than give the most
cursory glance at each country which we entered; but I trust
that the recital of our travels will show that, although we exceeded
our proposed route, yet we successfully accomplished our wishes,
and, although we visited some districts quite unknown to the usual
traveller, and succeeded in finding unvisited ground, even in
Europe, we neither travelled too rapidly, nor were prevented from
being able to impart, after our visit, some of the pleasing impres-
sions which these scenes gave us, while we were passing through
them.
pa
We were well aware that the various languages which we
should meet with, would cause us some difficulties, but not such
as would be insuperable to persons possessing a general know-
ledge of European languages, and some acquaintance with Eastern
ones. I was also anxious that our expenditure should be limited
within reasonable bounds, yet without stinting ourselves of such
advantages as we could properly command. I determined to keep
my
CHAP. I.]
3
PROPOSED ROUTE.
a careful account of every day's journey and expenses, as I con-
sidered this would be both interesting at a future time to our-
selves, and useful to some future traveller. We also hoped to be
successful in bringing home a series of sketches of a country so
little visited as either the Cis or Trans- Caucasus. And if, added
to this, we should be enabled to throw any light upon the sub-
ject of the warlike preparations which Russia was said to be
making on the borders of the Black Sea, an additional interest
would be imparted to our travels.
One difficulty presented itself, which is of an unusual character
in Europe, viz., the almost perfect blank as regards books of in-
formation respecting the Caucasus. It appeared, in this respect,
almost a terra incognita. For although in Murray's handbook
Russia is very exhaustively treated, yet information as regards
the Caucasus is very scanty; indeed, by no means such as would
enable a traveller to work his way through the country by hand-
book alone. This want I desired in some measure to supply; and
for that purpose I propose to add a few tables, containing all the
principal routes, both in Cis and Trans-Caucasus, with their
distances, &c.
The very fact of being unable to procure the above information
was in itself a charm, as unmistakeably proving that even in
Europe there was yet a district little known. This made us the
more desirous of seeking and exploring it; and the result showed
that we were not mistaken.
I will no longer dwell upon our hopes and anticipations, but
will enter upon a brief account of our experiences from the period
of our leaving London until our return.
B 2
(
CHAPTER II.
LONDON TO COLOGNE.
On the evening of Friday the 9th June, we left London, arriv-
ing in Antwerp on the following morning. The solemn beauty
of the magnificent cathedral struck me more on this occasion than
it had ever previously done. The cleanliness of the lower orders
of the people, and their apparent devotion at the service as well
as their earnestness, were especially remarkable. We did not
delay long in Antwerp, as a recent visit to that city had given
both to my son and myself an opportunity of examining its
extensive fortifications.
On that occasion General Reynard had given us every possible
facility of making ourselves acquainted with the whole system of
these works, which may be considered as perfect as any in Europe.
He had personally explained their general features and intention,
and shown the advantages which Belgium expected to derive, in
case of emergency, from the assistance of England. No one who
has not gone somewhat into this subject, or had the opportunities,
which, by permission of the King of the Belgians, were placed
within our reach, can form a due conception of the completeness
of these works, nor of the value which may be set upon them in
case such a complication of circumstances should arise, as was
very nearly brought about by the Emperor of the French, shortly
before the war between Prussia and Austria.
CHAP. II.]
5
LONDON TO COLOGNE.
We arrived in Brussels for a late breakfast, putting up at the
Hôtel de la Poste, the most comfortable hotel in that city.
While we were there, a fearful accident very nearly happened
to a young English lady, who was staying in the hotel with her
family. The window of her sleeping-room, which opened almost
to the floor, overlooked a flat skylight; and having been accus-
tomed in England to walk over thick glass, she, without due
thought or examination, opening the window, fearlessly stepped
out. Tripping very lightly she passed over one or two panes, but
the next gave way under her. With the utmost agility and pre-
sence of mind, she sprang back to the window, and contrived, with
the assistance of her sister, to regain the room. It was wonder-
ful how she escaped being dashed to pieces in the stone hall
beneath.
We remained at Brussels only sufficient time to walk in the
Park, and to admire the steady progress of this rising city, in
which the cleanliness of the inhabitants and of their houses, their
orderly and excellent arrangements, their general kindness to
strangers, the remarkable excellence and moderate charges of
their restaurants, deserve the highest commendation, and certainly
a better fate than that which they narrowly escaped-a junction
with their unfortunate southern neighbour. The majority of the
inhabitants seem well aware that such a junction would have
been very far from conferring upon them the promised
benefits.
We arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle late on Saturday evening.
It
was interesting to observe the number of wounded officers of the
Prussian army, who were seeking their recovery at these waters
and baths; in many instances their wounds were of so serious a
nature as to compel them to resort to the assistance of their
servants to receive their glasses of water from the spring, they
being unable to descend the inconvenient, steep, and winding
6
[CHAP. II.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
stairs which meet the aged as well as the young before they can.
obtain the precious water.
As it was known we were only temporary lodgers, the servants
and porter at the Hotel Nuellens did not give themselves the
trouble to render us much civility; we therefore dined at
Madame Delmar's, where we received the usual kindness and
attention from the amiable old lady who presides over that
establishment.
On Sunday, June the 11th, there was to have been a magnifi-
cent procession at Aix-la-Chapelle, a thanksgiving for the won-
derful victories accorded to the arms of Germany; the weather,
however, was so bad, that the ceremony could not take place.
It was worth while to observe the quiet phlegmatic way in
which the Germans accepted this disappointment, which English
or Frenchmen would have vehemently deplored.
Late in the evening we started for Cologne, and arrived in
time to attend the last evening service at this truly wonderful
and stupendous Cathedral. During the last twenty-five years I
have constantly visited Cologne, and it has always been with the
liveliest feelings of satisfaction and pleasure that I have observed
the gradual but steady progress of its magnificent Cathedral
towards completion. It is said that it will take yet sixteen years
to finish it, and then there can be no doubt but that it will be
the finest Gothic cathedral in Europe, with the single exception,
perhaps, of that of Seville.
I observed many strangers present at this service; amongst
them a gentleman apparently studying his breviary with great
earnestness, and very much to the satisfaction of some soldiers,
who were admiring his devotion. On leaving the Cathedral
I had occasion to pass near this gentleman, when I observed
that the book to which he had devoted such unremitting atten-
tion was an edition of our old friend Bradshaw.
Gal
CHAP. II.]
7
LONDON TO COLOGNE.
Late in the evening we strolled up to the Railway Station, and
I was particularly struck with many points of a military character
connected with the arrangements of the Prussian army.
The
dress both of officers and men was sensible and soldierlike, and
the body of men about to proceed to Berlin were embarked in
the train in a most orderly manner. This body consisted of a
chosen delegation from every Corps in the Service, who have to
represent their respective Regiments at the grand fêtes which
are to take place on the entry of the army into Berlin, in com-
memoration of the late victories.
I may observe, that all the officers, with the exception of the
General Commanding and his immediate staff, travelled in the
second class—there was but little personal baggage, as uniform is
the sole dress of the officers of this army, and so easy and conve-
nient is it in its form, that no dress would be adopted by them-
selves in preference to it. The calm and steady demeanour of
both men and officers, the business-like way in which they per-
formed their duty, could not fail to leave a very satisfactory
impression upon any one acquainted with the profession.
Some of the men who belonged, I was told, to the Army of
Brandenberg, particularly deserved attention. These soldiers are
looked upon as the toughest men in the army: born in a sterile
region, their early life is a continued fight and struggle with
nature. At Gravelotte they are said to have borne the brunt of
the battle for fifteen successive hours; but when, after this severe
exertion, it was given out that their attendance on parade was not
considered requisite, they to a man scouted such unheard of
relaxation, and voluntarily placed themselves in the ranks as
usual. To this principality the Prince Bismarck belongs, and
proud he may be of having sprung from such a race, and proud
they may be of numbering such a remarkable man amongst their
countrymen.
<
8
[CHAP. II.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
Germany deserves the utmost credit for the way in which the
exertions of her warriors were acknowledged, and their sacrifices
rewarded. The organization and tone of her army cannot be
surpassed; the manner in which her commissariat arrangements
were formed and carried into effect cannot be too highly ex-
tolled; a hearty goodwill in the profession appears to pervade
all ranks, and a thoroughly military spirit to reign supreme;
their sober earnestness, devoid of all hurry and confusion or
frivolity, is particularly striking.
The laws of honour, I am informed upon excellent authority,
are preserved with the utmost exactitude; so that no friendship,
I might even say, no relationship, could exonerate an officer from
the obligation to maintain them. This subject deserves and
receives the utmost consideration amongst military men, the
obligation respecting personal honour having, perhaps, more to
do with chivalry in the profession than some may imagine; and
the military regulations on this point stamp a character on a class,
whose chief reward is the high consideration in which it is held
in their country.
Not long since some Polish officers in the Prussian service came
to a mutual agreement, for friendship sake, that they would never
fight a duel amongst themselves; but this coming to the ears of
the King, appeared to him so serious an interference with the
laws of honour, that he directed that every one who had entered
into this compact should quit his service. So strong is the obliga-
tion in Prussia for an officer to preserve his honour, that, if struck
by a civilian, he is compelled, actually obliged, by the military
code, to run his sword through him, whatever may be the future
consequences to himself.
A Prussian officer is bound at all times to appear in uniform.
Even at the Races at Berlin the Emperor is displeased unless the
officers of his army who ride, do so in their undress regimentals,
CHAP. II.]
9
LONDON TO COLOGNE.
and not in a jockey turnout, and, on one occasion, he was dread-
fully annoyed with a young noble who transgressed his wishes in
this particular.
Social position in Prussia would appear to be restricted wholly
to the well-born, and military officers. However intelligent, and
however wealthy, no one, unless nobly born, can rise in the
social scale. This disgusts large numbers of the intelligent and
of those who have made themselves wealthy by their industry,
and must tend to lessen that support to the Throne, which other-
wise they are inclined so cheerfully to give.
Standard examinations, not competitive, seem to be in Prussia
the rule for preferment; every candidate for Government employ,
whether he be noble or not, must undergo them; but, having
passed them, the nobly-born can rise to any eminence in the
state, whereas to one not so born this is almost impossible, but
he must content himself, after passing a most severe examination,
with such a post as a village postmastership, on say fifty pounds a
year, probably for the rest of his days, watching the good fortune
of his nobly-born contemporary, who is rising to the highest
honours in the state.
-
CHAPTER III.
COLOGNE TO VIENNA.
ON Monday the 12th June, we were up by cock-crow, taking
our seats in the train for Munich, at 6 A.м.
We were not required to change our carriages during this
entire distance, which was a pleasant innovation on the usual
annoying changes, common to all continental travelling. I need
scarcely allude to the towns of Coblentz, Mayence, &c., &c.,
which we passed at a rattling pace, except that at each there
was a display of military emblems and banners, and other marks
of rejoicing in honour of the troops who were daily returning in
large numbers from France.
At Aix-la-Chapelle we had witnessed a severe storm, accom-
panied by torrents of rain; this storm was travelling towards the
cast at a rate of about ten miles per hour. We overtook it
at Darmstadt, as we were travelling at the rate of twenty miles;
we accompanied it as far as Munich. On the following day we
overtook it at Salzburg and Linz, and finally again at Vienna.
It was most singular thus to trace, right across Europe, the pro-
gress of a storm-continually overstepping it, by the greater
rapidity of our journey, and then while resting at these cities, to
watch its forward progress in one unvarying course towards the
east.
We arrived at Munich late in the evening, taking up our
quarters in the centre of the town, at the Hotel Maximilian.
CHAP. III.]
COLOGNE TO VIENNA.
11
On the following morning, the first thing we visited was the
beautiful statue of the Protectress of Munich by Schwanthaler.
It is cast in bronze, and does the greatest credit to that renowned
artist. It is upwards of sixty feet high, and so great is the size
of the figure, that it is not difficult to move about in the interior
of its head and this I had done some years before.
We also devoted some hours of the day to visiting the Glypto-
thek and the Pinacothek; we could only pay a cursory visit to
these interesting galleries, as we could not afford to linger in
Europe, when all our desires were centered in the farther East.
I may mention, however, that we visited that most magnificent
Byzantine chapel, so gorgeous and yet so darkly tranquil, which
was one of the most successful conceptions of the artistic King,
to whom so much of the renown of Munich is due. The late
King spent his life in his endeavour to make Munich renowned,
in which no doubt he certainly succeeded to a wonderful ex-
tent. Nothing, however, can compensate for its want of river
communication. To this may be attributed the difficulties he
met with in his endeavours to improve the trade of the city. Had
it rested on the navigable parts of the Rhine or the Danube,
Munich, with half the exertions of the late King, would doubt-
less have become one of the most rising cities in Europe-as
renowned for commerce as it now is for art. The streets in the
new town of Munich are very wide, and so well suited to tram-
ways that I was much surprised not to see any in use.
We left Munich in the evening for Vienna; the magnificent
Alps of the Tyrol shewing grandly on the south side of our
road.
We remained a few minutes at the station nearest to the now
far-famed village of Ober Ammergau. We were informed that a
large number of strangers, and especially English, had already
engaged rooms at fabulous prices, at the village, to witness the
12
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
[CHAP. III.
next representation of the Passion Play, which was to be acted
there twice that month. I cannot quite reconcile to myself the
idea of the representation of so serious a drama, nor the fact that
the man who on Sunday personifies our blessed Saviour, is, on a
week day, to be seen at his usual occupation as a common work-
man; and that he was not even exempt from the conscription, but
was obliged to accompany the army into France as a common
soldier. These facts militate against the reverence which other-
wise might have been felt for his person. But still we were assured
that many persons who attended at this representation were so
deeply affected with the scene that, far from viewing it as an
amusing spectacle, they went away filled with wholesome religious
awe.
We remained only a few hours at Salzburg, as, having pre-
viously visited Ischl, we did not linger to see again its beautiful
scenery.
On our arrival at Linz, on the morning of the 14th June, we
were struck with admiration at the noble Danube. Linz is very
beautifully situated on its banks: it is fortified by a circle of
redoubts built on the neighbouring heights. A fine stone bridge
is in course of erection over the Danube.
Before leaving we had sufficient time to attend a most im-
pressive service in the Cathedral Church in the city, and we were
sensibly impressed with the devotion of the congregation. The
music was wonderfully fine, the church handsomely decorated, and
in excellent taste.
Punctually at 8 A.M. we started down the river, in a very nice
little steamboat for Vienna, preferring the river to the rail, as we
thought our journey would be far more interesting by water, al-
though rather longer in point of time,
We were surprised at the charges on board these Danube
boats, which made us aware that we had now reached the lands of
CHAP. III.]
13
COLOGNE TO VIENNA.
autocratic monopoly, where not only must a profit accrue to the
shareholders of every company, but the State, and the grandees
in the State, must also have their share; and as we passed
through Austria, even in Hungary, we found that this rule held
good; a Grand Duke here, and an Arch-Duke there, generally
standing directly in the road to improvement, and waving his
banner of monopoly in the face of all progress, until enormously
compensated.
The scenery below Linz is very lovely, and not unlike the
Rhine above Cologne; but more sublime, and on a larger scale.
On arriving within four or five miles of Vienna, we were trans-
ferred to a smaller boat; shortly after which we entered a canal,
which has been.constructed to lead almost into the interior of the
city. About 6 P.M. we disembarked on a noble quay.
The buildings which line the new boulevards far surpass in
magnificence anything of the kind in Paris, or any other city
in Europe that I have seen. The improvements generally in
this city, since I visited it in 1848, far exceed anything which I
could have imagined. Very excellent use has been made of the
ground upon which the fortifications formerly stood. In the
place of these old walls and ditches were now erected magnificent
mansions, boulevards, gardens, and splendid buildings. Then
entirely surrounding the old city, and between it and the new
one, fine open spaces, most artistically laid out for the amuse-
ment of all classes of the inhabitants, now exist, allowing a full
current of air to permeate the entire city, giving to the inhabi-
tants, within easy access, the most delightful places of recreation;
and, by the wonderful good taste with which the whole has been
carried out, making Vienna, in my opinion, the most beautiful
city in Europe.
We drove to the Arch-Duke Charles Hotel, situated in the
heart of the old town; but I confess that I think we made a
14
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. III.
mistake, as I would now prefer an hotel on the boulevards, or
in the more open part of the town-the enclosed situation of
the Arch-Duke being in no way compensated by the rooms or
attendance, and certainly not by the bill which met us on our
departure.
The first morning after our arrival, the 15th of June, we spent
in visiting the old city, the Cathedral, &c., &c. We also called
upon his Excellency Lord Bloomfield, her Majesty's ambassador,
who, most kindly, not only expressed his readiness to obtain for
us permission to see anything of interest in Vienna, but presented
us with letters of introduction to Count Kuhn, Minister of War,
who received us most graciously, and was pleased to direct Count
Heller von Hellwald, an officer on the Staff of the Etat Major,
to attend us, with instructions to give us facilities, during our stay
in the capital, to see everything, military or civil, which we might
wish-a mark of consideration for which I endeavoured to express
my gratitude. The Minister of War spoke English exceedingly
well, and seemed to feel pleased that officers of other nations
should take an interest in the military affairs of Austria.
Lieutenant Count Heller de Hellwald is an exceedingly intelli-
gent man, speaking and writing English, and many other foreign
languages, with ease and fluency. He entered the military ser-
vice when very young, and soon after retired from it, in order to
adopt scientific pursuits. On the occasion of the Emperor Maxi-
milian proceeding to Mexico, Count Hellwald was appointed to
his staff in a scientific position, which, when the revolution in
Mexico broke out, he again exchanged for a military one, the
more readily as he saw the Emperor in danger. He gave us many
interesting accounts of his adventurous life in Mexico. He is
now established as a staff officer in the bureau of his Excellency
the Minister of War. We cannot speak in too grateful terms of
his kindness and attention during our stay in Vienna.
CHAP. III.]
15
COLOGNE TO VIENNA.
!
In the evening we went to the Opera, the representation being
Faust and Marguerite. Both in its external appearance, and
in its internal arrangement and decoration, this Opera-house may
be considered the first in the world. We were fortunate in wit-
nessing one of the finest German operas, represented in its parent
country, and language, with every adjunct of actors, scenery, music,
chorus not to be surpassed in talent or scientific management;
while the fact that officers and Government officials are obliged
to attend in their uniforms, or official dresses, adds materially to
the brilliancy of the theatre. His Imperial Majesty appeared in
uniform, on the left hand, and two or more of the Grand Dukes
on the right of the house.
The excellent taste evinced in the ballet is deserving of men-
tion; for although all the wonderful feats in dancing which may
be seen in Paris were carried out in Vienna, yet the whole ap-
peared free from that vulgarity which I have observed at the
French opera.
The Opera had, fortunately for us, been kept open a few days
longer than usual, in consequence of the expected arrival of the
King of Greece.
CHAPTER IV.
VIENNA.
THE morning of the 16th of June we devoted to an inspection
of the great Arsenal, a magnificent and immense building of red
stone, in the new city.
The centre portion in the front is set apart as a sort of Wal-
halla. The entrance hall and staircase are magnificently deco-
rated, and filled with statues, in white marble, of various distin-
guished marshals and generals of the Empire. The upper rooms,
noble in size, are profusely decorated, and painted in fresco with
battle scenes of the old wars with Napoleon; and are also devoted
to the preservation of a most valuable and curious collection of
ancient armour and warlike instruments, the private property of
the Emperor.
The remainder of the building is constructed to hold seven
thousand troops, with workshops for the construction of cannon
and the reparation of small arms, store-houses for guns, limbers,
and waggons, &c., &c. The Austrians, however, would seem to
be somewhat backward in their manufacture of cannon; their
guns are all cast solid, and then bored out. The iron is brought
from Styria, and is said to be of a very superior quality; but I
observed that it was allowed to heat under the process of turning,
thus blunting their tools. We saw some of the newest mitrail-
CĦAP. IV.]
VIENNA.
17
leuse guns, which they had just received, and were commencing
to experiment with. But we were surprised to find that they
apparently were unacquainted with the chilled shot, and many
other modern scientific improvements.
In the afternoon we went, by invitation of the Ambassador, to
dine with him at Baden, about fifteen miles by rail from Vienna.
It is a delightful watering-place, possessing baths and springs,
and is becoming of immense repute, its proximity to Vienna en-
abling the wealthy citizens to reach it with ease after their hours
of business. We returned by a late train to Vienna, where, to
our surprise, we found the platform crowded with richly dressed
officials, who were in attendance to meet the King of Greece.
We now discovered that the King was, with his suite, in the
same train with ourselves.
The 17th June we devoted first to a visit to the Rodolf Caserne,
a very large barrack, constructed to hold about two thousand
men, built very much after the same pattern as the Arsenal. It
is formed into four squares, four stories high, with wide cor-
ridors running round the interior of each building, on cach
story. The plan is simple, and exceedingly convenient. On cach
story, in addition to the rooms for the private soldiers, there are
apartments for officers, and rooms for non-commissioned officers,
cooking and washing-rooms, store-rooms, &c., &c., and I am
bound to say they all appeared clean and kept in good order. In
the cavalry square the horses appeared to be provided with very
lofty and cool stables, and not over-crowded; the ventilation also
was good, a most important point. The same system obtained
here which some years since I observéd to be practised in the
Turkish army; that is, of not removing the litter of the horses
more frequently than once in three or four weeks. Singular
as it may appear, this is not attended with the inconvenience
which might have been expected, and results in a very large saving
C
18
[CHAP. IV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
of straw, diminishing the daily allowance to about four pounds
per horse.
The horses seemed well-bred, rather small, but in cruelly low
condition, which was to be accounted for by the very low ration
which they gave them, and which I understood to be 5 lb. of
corn, 8 lb. of hay, and 4 lb. of straw daily, being, as regards corn
and straw, exactly the half of what we consider a proper ration
for a cavalry horse.
The Austrian soldiers of all arms seemed to be strong men,
but not robust. Their pay is very small indeed, and they are
provided by the Government with only one meal a day, an old
system which is now being exploded in all European armies, and
is retained only, I believe, in Turkey. In their dress the Austrians
appear to have entirely relinquished their ancient national colour,
white. The cavalry are now generally dressed in a blue jacket with
four pockets-a sort of Norfolk jacket; a second jacket or pelisse
is either slung over the left shoulder, or worn, in cold weather,
over the first jacket. They wear loose brick-dust trousers and
Hessian boots, so constructed with a strap and buckle behind
as to enable them either to be drawn over the knees or to be
wrinkled down about the ankles. This combines the most ser-
viceable and the smartest plan I have yet seen, and is well
worthy of being tried and reported upon by our experienced
cavalry officers. Had I been acquainted with this plan when on
service in the Crimea, how gladly would I have availed myself
of it.
The forage cap of this army is simple, neat, and very con-
venient, and can be turned at pleasure into a most comfortable
cap for the night. The dress cap is generally pretty, but by no
means a convenient head-dress. The men in lancer regiments
appear to be too heavily armed; as, in addition to their lance,
they carry a sword, a carbine, and I believe a pistol. The dress
CHAP. IV.]
19
VIENNA.
of the artillery is dark-brown, with very dark-blue trousers, orna-
mented with small red piping; that of the infantry is now blue,
with lightish-blue trousers. The Hungarians wear tight panta-
loons, and boots with very high and exceedingly small heels, like
those recently introduced by ladies into England.
It has been the habit in England to regard service in the
Austrian cavalry as the most agreeable imaginable. This
may possibly at one time have been the case, but if so, it is
certainly now entirely changed. Almost the whole cavalry
force of the empire are now detached in squadrons over every
portion of the country, in all the small, distant, and out-of-the-
way towns and villages, almost universally in billets. With rare
exceptions, there are no cavalry barracks at all in Austria, and
it has been found that the most economical way of feeding the
horses is to keep comparatively few together. This, however,
compels these gaily-dressed officers to content themselves with
the poorest villages as their homes, distant from all society of
their own standing and class, and from much intellectual amuse-
ment and recreation-a plan exceedingly pernicious to the well-
being of the army.
Count Heller took the greatest pains to explain every portion
of the system upon which we desired information, and the officers
were most obliging to us in every way.
On leaving the barracks we took advantage of the carriages on
the tramway to take us to Schönbrunn, the country palace of
the Emperor, and entered the gardens beneath the archway, near
which the great Napoleon so nearly met his death by the hand
of an assassin. The gardens at Schönbrunn are very pretty and
well kept, but I do not consider there is anything particularly
striking about them.
The system of tramways at Vienna is the most perfect insti-
tution of its kind. Fortunately on the boulevards plenty of room
C 2
20
[CHAP. IV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
has been allowed for a wide centre road, with two rows of trees,
and two wide side roads. As the tramways on the boulevards
entirely encircle the city, and also radiate to many of the
suburbs, they afford the greatest imaginable facilities for loco-
motion to every point which can be desired. The carriages are
most comfortable, very low and easy of access; the seats are
ranged on either side, the whole being well covered over to screen
the sun. They are sometimes overcrowded, causing a first-comer
to relinquish his seat to a lady entering the carriage. This
however, in Vienna is the less annoying by reason of its being
almost certain that the person in whose favour it is relinquished
is most agreeable and handsome. The price for seats is ex-
ceedingly moderate, but so nice are these carriages, that although
it is altogether forbidden to officers to make use of the omnibuses
which traverse the city, yet they are freely permitted to use
the tramway carriages. Although this system of locomotion
is so perfect in the wide streets and boulevards of Vienna,
and would be equally so in Munich, or most Hungarian and
Russian towns, I very much doubt its applicability to Paris, or
any of the more crowded parts of London or Dublin.
-
Returning to Vienna by the tramway, we went almost round
the city, and then walked down to the Prater, the Hyde Park of
Vienna. The long drives and sides of the Prater are, at the correct
seasons and hours, filled with the carriages of the nobles and
wealthy people of Vienna; in former days the equipages, though
somewhat barbaric in loose trappings, brass bells, immense buckles,
and gaudy fringes, were exceedingly picturesque. Much of this
has now given way to an imitation of our English style, which
aims at an extreme quietness in the carriages, the liveries, the
harness, &c. Concealed by a belt of trees, but not far from the
entrance to the park, is held a constant fair, for the amusement
of the lower classes. Punchinello, swings and threatres succeed
CHAP. IV.]
VIENNA.
21
Ma
each other in endless variety, and it is most amusing to observe
the interest which they create, especially in the wild people who
visit the capital from the Carpathian mountains, and other distant
portions of this far-spreading empire.
CHAPTER V.
THE CAMP OF BRUCK.
ON the afternoon of Sunday the 18th June, accompanied by
our friend Count Hellwald, we visited the camp at Bruck,
situated about twenty miles from Vienna.
By some error in the notice which the Minister at War had
sent of our intended arrival, the day was mistaken, and General
Prevadowich, commanding the camp at Bruck, was absent in
Vienna; but we were received with every kindness and attention
by his staff officers.
I cannot say that I concur in the general arrangements of this
camp. It consists of a considerable number of very large wooden
huts, or rather barracks, situated very close together-indeed, in
my opinion, most dangerously close, since should one catch fire, I
see no possibility of escape for all those standing to leeward of it.
IIere all the recognized laws in building wooden towns and cities
in Russia and America are entirely set at defiance, and I can-
not believe but that the camp must, ere very long, be destroyed.
Each of these buildings is occupied by 200 soldiers, each soldier
having a comfortable bed or palliasse stuffed with straw and
placed upon a sort of low table of wood. The disadvantage,
however, of this is, that these bedsteads almost entirely fill the
room, and no space is left for the men to move about, or
CHAP. v.]
THE CAMP OF BRUCK.
23
even to eat their meals, which, in wet weather, must be espe-
cially inconvenient. The position of the hospital buildings I
considered very objectionable, situated as they are in the midst of
the lines of the soldiers on duty. Each room contained about fifty
patients, without much ability to separate the different diseases.
Many of the ambulance carriages were very clever, and possessed
great merit.
For the musketry instruction of the army the arrangements
appear very good, and upon some points highly deserving of
imitation; but the distances at which they are instructed to fire
would be considered with us to be very limited.
One part
of the instruction which is adopted is of great value, as it
tests the intelligence of the soldier in a remarkable degree.
At a distance of about 200 yards from the firing shed a trench
is dug, of about 10 or 12 feet deep and about 80 or 100 feet
long; in this the target-holder walks up and down, the target
being the figure of a soldier full size, and so arranged that when
it is held up the feet should be even with the earth. This figure
the target-holder raises up at uncertain places, and moves along
the trench for a prescribed number of seconds, generally about
ten; the marksman, therefore, as soon as he sees it, is com-
pelled to take a quick, though steady aim. Firing thus aţ
an unfixed mark is perhaps more valuable than any other
kind of practice, as it most resembles the actual sharp-
shooting practice in war. The running deer and hog are also
in use, and the first-class shots are permitted to compete in
this practice.
I also saw a small spade with a saw edge, which it was under
consideration to issue to a certain number of the infantry, and
which, in modorn warfare, where so much must and will depend
upon the cover which troops can quickly obtain from their enemy,
may prove of great service. The advisability of its adoption
Y
24
*
TRAVELS [CHAP. V.
IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
deserves consideration; for that army which can most rapidly
create a breastwork, however slight, will possess an immense
advantage over its opponent.
*
The same description of large wooden barracks, for I cannot
call them huts, were also provided as stabling for the cavalry;
and the system which I spoke of at the Rodolf Barracks, re-
garding the manure, was also practised here. The horses, although
well bred, and in many instances very nice little animals, were
here, again, in poor condition, owing, no doubt, to the half-
ration system which, I presume for economical reasons, was
adopted.
On the whole, the camp at Bruck may be looked upon more in
the light of an immense barrack of mixed troops than as a camp
of instruction; but this is an evil from which we are not entirely
free, either at Aldershot or the Curragh. It is one of the greatest
mistakes which any military administration can commit, and is
universally condemned by the combative branches; their voice is
too frequently smothered for economical reasons, but moveable
camps of instruction are now yearly formed in Great Britain.
The sanitary arrangements at Bruck certainly appeared to be
of an inferior order, and the water supply in the camp, so very
requisite, especially in case of fire, appeared most restricted;
for, although a river runs beneath, yet without more perfect
appliances for bringing up the water, it might as well be
miles distant. Avenues of acacia have been largely planted,
which will, no doubt, in a few years give a pleasing ap-
pearance.
There was a large casino in the centre, on the officers' side,
where two most excellent bands were in attendance, alternately
performing. Non-commissioned officers and even soldiers ap-
peared, equally with the officers, to be permitted to obtain
refreshments at the tables. This in an army which has been
-
CHAP. V.]
25
THE CAMP OF BRUCK.
looked upon as so aristocratic as that of Austria, appeared a little
singular. The officers were comfortably lodged, about twenty in
one barrack, their servants in a large broad gallery in the centre;
but here again the risk from fire appeared to me most imminent,
more especially amongst such a smoking generation as these
Germans are. I do not speak from want of experience on this
subject, it having been my lot to have the command, for a period
of five years, of a camp fitted for ten thousand men, where, with
every appliance against fire, and with a well-arranged system for
its instant extinction continually practised, yet occasionally we
had the greatest difficulty to isolate it, and I feel convinced that
had our camp been constructed after the model of Bruck, we
should have been unable to do so.
The main guard at the camp was composed of Hungarian
soldiers. These men are almost invariably handsome, well-
formed men. They appeared well accoutred, but nearly all of
them had in use the high-heeled boots to which I have before
alluded. How they can be supposed to march in these boots I
cannot imagine.
At nine in the evening, after a fair sort of dinner at the camp
restaurant, we started on our return to Vienna, the train being
greatly crowded.
It would be a positive wrong and injustice to quit the subject
of Vienna without alluding to the extreme beauty of the women
of all classes, which far surpasses that of any other city in the
world that I have yet seen. This beauty is by no means confined
to the upper classes of society, far from it. Enter tramways or
theatres, attend garden meetings or music, walk on the boulevards
or the Prater, it is the same thing; the beauty of the women
strikes you at every point. It is accounted for by the great mix-
ture of races in the citizens of Vienna, coming together as they
do from all parts of central Europe. But whatever the cause,
26
[CHAP. V.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
the fact assorts itself, that the women of no city in the world.
can compare in beauty with those of Vienna.
At six o'clock on the morning of the 19th of June, we em-
barked on board a small steamer on the canal which led to the
Danube; and from this vessel, after about one hour's steaming,
we were transferred, with our baggage, to a tolerably comfortable
steamboat of a much larger size, which was to take us to Pesth,
the capital of Hungary. One serious inconvenience to which
passengers are subjected in these vessels is the determination
of the Germans who travel by them to shut all the windows,
thereby excluding every current of air from the cabins; and, in
addition to this, they then cloud themselves and all around them
in a dense atmosphere of tobacco smoke, from which all escape is
impossible. But not only is this habit exercised at all hours of
the day, but even during meals there was no exemption from
this disagreeable practice.
About mid-day we reached the famous fortress of Comorn,
which prides itself upon the enviable fact of having never yet.
succumbed to an enemy, a boast which few other fortresses of
equal magnitude in the world can make. Its outworks did not
appear to realise those conditions of strength which are to be
looked for in modern fortifications, although I understood that
very considerable works had recently been added to it. The
embrasures seemed intended for miniature artillery, and placed
far too close together; the walls of the works also appeared not to
be protected from mortar fire by earthworks, and some of their
outworks seemed to have no defence on their land faces. How-
ever, my remarks must be considered as impressions formed on a
very cursory view, from the deck of a steamer, and as Comorn
has never yet fallen to an enemy, these impressions may not be
justified by the reality.
The passengers on board this vessel were mostly in groups of
CHAP. V.]
27
THE CAMP OF BRUCK.
families, who were proceeding from the city of Vienna to their
country places on the Danube, or the watering Spas lower down
the river. They were especially polite to us English strangers,
although generally I was surprised to remark that they were un-
acquainted with any foreign languages.
CHAPTER VI.
PESTH AND BASIASCH.
ABOUT five o'clock we reached the city of Pesth, on the left
bank of the Danube, and Buda, or Ofen, on the right bank. The
appearance of these cities is really magnificent, from the height
and splendour of the new buildings, the more remarkable when
it is borne in mind that little more than twenty years since.
these cities were almost entirely destroyed by a bombardment,
which was continued without ceasing, the fire raining upon them
from the upper forts for twenty-four hours, a calamity soon after
succeeded by the heaviest floods within the memory of man, the
Danube laying waste all the lower parts of these cities.
The improvements date from the grant of a separate Govern-
ment and Parliament to the Hungarians, from which time a vast
amount of English capital has flowed into this country, assisting in
the development of its great natural resources. Splendid store-
houses and immense hotels line the banks of the Pesth side
of the river. The magnificent suspension-bridge is perhaps the
largest in the world, allowing the ice to pass freely through at
the breaking up of the winter, and so probably preventing all
future inundations. A pair of monstrous lions, one on either
side, command the entrance to the bridge. These were carved
by an Italian artist, and it is said that soon after they were
placed in their positions, it was pointed out to him that he
-
P. 29.
OF
NIV
HENTIC
dagga d*
****
1J35 13 AB3 155 B:
30111111911
BA NÀY ĐƯỢC MỘT HÀNH VẬT L
HIDDE
PROMINE
Attualme
THE ANCIENT TURKISH BATH AT PESTH.
Makw
DARICA
A me and
***
-----
MI
CHAP. VI.]
29
PESTH AND BASIASCH.
:
had omitted the tongues of these animals, which so distressed
him that he threw himself into the Danube and was drowned.
On landing, we took up our quarters at the Hotel Hongria, a
newly-erected very fine building, considerably larger and far
more comfortable and economical than the Hôtel du Louvre at
Paris.
The inhabitants of Pesth excel those of Vienna in their love
of pleasure, making it, as far as their means will allow, the
business of their life; and the laxity of morals in the capital of
Hungary is proverbial even in Austria.
On the morning after our arrival we visited the palace and the
chapel above Buda, admiring the view which was presented
beneath. We then visited the ancient Roman sulphurous baths,
to which additions have been made, but which are probably other-
wise little changed since the days in which the victorious Roman
soldiers luxuriated in them; indeed the large circular bath, now
in daily use by the common people, is said to be in the exact
state in which it was when used by them. In this bath bathers
of both sexes were promiscuously mixed together, many of them
labouring under most painful and ugly looking boils and various
cutaneous affections, for which these waters are said to be most
efficacious. Scantily robed in ragged clothing, these poor people
are allowed from morning till evening to enjoy, without charge,
the luxury of these naturally tepid waters, which give a singular
balm and solace to their sufferings. The cures which are
effected are said to be both astonishing and rapid. Attached to
this are other baths, of a luxurious description, and entirely of
modern construction, fitted up with every conceivable douche
which can be applied to human ailment. These waters are
renowned as being very efficacious for gout and rheumatism.
In a few years Pesth will probably become one of the largest
cities in Europe; it has every condition of position, of mineral
30
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. VI.
and vegetable production within its command which should give
it a considerable trade; and the intelligence of its inhabitants,
together with their present freedom of institutions, and their own
Parliament, bids fair to ensure its success.
On the morning of Thursday, the 22nd, we left Pesth by the
railway for Temesvar. We here travelled second class, and
found the carriages to be fitted up with spring cushions covered
with green leather, and many new improvements seldom obser-
vable in the first-class carriages in England.
A great deal of rain fell, and a large portion of this flat
country was under water. The agricultural wealth of Hungary
would appear enormous. As far as the eye could reach over
this boundless plain, as for hours and hours we travelled on, we
could see crops of grain, Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley,
with occasional interruptions by patches of red chilies and a few
vineyards. Enormous sheds were erected at the railway stations
to shelter this produce when in course of transmission to the
markets of the world. Many flocks of geese were feeding near
the villages, and great numbers of sheep, cattle, and horses were
grazing upon such lands as were not adapted for cercal produc-
tions.
We stayed a short time at Szegedin for dinner, and reached
Temesvar at 5 P.M. Temesvar resembles very closely an American
town, the same kind of wide, unfinished streets, with the same
rough strides towards prosperity. A tramway was already in use
through the principal roads in the town, and preparations going
on for its entire completion. A very considerable river, which
flowed through the town, opened communication with the Danube.
Out of it we saw taken some fine sturgeon, weighing at least
twenty pounds each, as well as large carp and pike.
There was nothing of interest to detain us at Temesvar, and
late in the evening we proceeded on to Basiasch-the termination
CHAP. VI.]
31
PESTH AND BASIASCH.
of the railway-situated on the left bank of the Danube, between
Belgrade, the capital of Servia, and Orsova, the last town in the
dominions of Austria.
We reached Basiasch very early on the morning of the 23rd.
On descending from the train we were seized upon by very wild
Servians in most picturesque dresses. They had small black
hats, with the edges turned up and plumes in front, ornamented
shirts, loose white trousers, coloured cloth bound round their
legs, and sandals fitted with thongs of leather; broad and richly-
worked leather stays, strapped round their bodies, completed
their dress. Most fortunately the interpreter of the Railway and
Steamboat Company, Mr. Sterne, a most intelligent Austrian,
came to our assistance, and we soon found very comfortable
quarters in the Railway Hotel. Mr. Sterne gave us very con-
siderable information regarding the country, and although he
had been neither in Italy nor in England, yet he spoke both
Italian and English remarkably well, in addition to German,
Hungarian, Servian, Wallachian, Spanish, and French.
Being detained at Basiasch waiting for a steamer to proceed
down the river, we employed the day in sketching, in writing
letters, and admiring the picturesque dresses of the inhabitants.
Late in the afternoon a steamer from Galatz arrived, bringing
a large number of passengers from Constantinople and the lower
parts of the Danube, who were generally proceeding to the baths
and watering-places of Germany. The services of Mr. Sterne,
the interpreter, were now called into active operation, especially
to tranquillise a boisterous American, who, possessing no other
money than English bank notes, became perfectly furious on
being obliged to change one into the one-and-eightpenny small
notes current in Austria, and this at a discount to his disad-
vantage of about twenty per cent.
Travellers are often recommended to carry English bank notes
32
[CHAP. VI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
to the Continent, as being more portable than gold, and equally
convertible. This may be sound advice, as far as Western
Europe is concerned, or even in the largest cities in the East;
but in small towns great difficulty, as well as loss, will be met
with in exchanging them, because they are not understood nor
casily recognised as genuine, and the five-pound English note
being seventy times as valuable as the one-guilder Austrian note,
creates much surprise and mistrust in those to whom they are
offered.
We were agreeably surprised by the cleanliness of our rooms
and beds, which at first looked suspicious, from the fact of its
being the first time that we found the upper sheet tacked to the
quilt, which we afterwards found was usual in Hungary and east-
ward, especially in small hotels. At the small hotels in Hungary,
the living is generally very fair, and the charges reasonable.
This is due to the fact that the price of meat averages not more
than threepence a pound; bread is equally reasonable; and
very good wine can be procured at from threepence to sixpence
per bottle.
In conversation with some of the intelligent people I met at
Basiasch, they gave great credit to the English, as being the first
to develop the resources of Hungary. The productive mines of
coal were first opened out at the instigation of the English, and
with their capital, doubtless with the view of obtaining a large
interest for the investment; but it has resulted in immense
benefits to both parties. The engineers on the steamboats and
railways were at first all English. Now, however, that the
natives have been instructed by them, this well paid service has
very naturally been placed in their hands. It is quite evident
that large returns can be obtained for capital judiciously laid
out in Ilungary, whether it be in Pesth itself (which cannot
fail in a few years to become a magnificent and enormous city)
CHAP. VI.]
33
PESTH AND BASIASCH.
or in the country, where the industry in mines, in vineyards,
and in agricultural products is receiving every day greater
development.
3
In the evening, at Basiasch, a few fire-flies displayed their tiny
lights; the first that I had seen in these latitudes, reminding us
that we were approaching the sunny south.
CHAPTER VII.
ON THE DANUBE.
On the morning of the 24th we left Basiasch, embarking in a
very fine steamer for Orsova. The boats on the lower part of the
Danube, although not equal to those on the Hudson and other
large rivers in America, are yet very capacious and well-
appointed. I am, however, bound to add that, in consequence
of the river communication being a government monopoly, the
charges are exceedingly high. The captain and officers, as well
as many of the stewards, are Austrians or Italians, coming prin-
cipally from the island of Lissa and the coast of Dalmatia.
Soon after leaving Basiasch, the scenery on either side of the
river became most lovely, increasing in grandeur until we arrived
within half an hour of Orsova. Here the Danube forces its way
through the lower spurs of the Carpathian mountains, which at
this point are still of considerable altitude; while the channel
being narrowed at this gorge, the stream rushes against the
rocks, scarped on either side in the form of precipitous walls;
high above, the mountains are clothed to their summit with
evergreens, the whole forming a scene so wonderfully beautiful
and varied, that it requires to be seen in order to be realised.
Strictly speaking, the iron gates of the Danube are the rapids
made by the shallow water and dangerous rocks, which occur
soon after leaving Orsova; but the term would seem to be more
CHAP. VII. ]
35
ON THE DANUBE.
applicable to the deep cleft in the mountains formed by some
convulsion of nature or the action of the Danube.
wop wo
Doubtless the present flat land of Hungary was once the bed
of a great lake, dammed up by the Carpathian mountains, until
by some great convulsion of nature the water burst through them.
The Banat of Hungary possesses a soil perhaps unequalled in
the world; and now that improved cultivation is yearly on the
increase, assisted by steam-ploughs, threshing machines, and
other agricultural implements largely imported from England,
it is impossible to calculate the amount of corn which ere
long will be produced in this favoured region, and which through
ROUGH COUNTRY CART, ORSOVA.
the ever-increasing facilities afforded by the new lines of rail,
will be readily transported to the large commercial cities in
the west of Europe, yielding very handsome returns for the
outlay made in this agricultural industry.
The works of Trajan are quite evident on the Servian side of
the river. A road still exists, in many parts cut out of the solid
rock, and where this was rendered impossible by the precipitous
character of the mountain, there are yet visible the traces of the
holes which were pierced in the rock for the beams upon which
D 2
36
[CHAP. VII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
to rest the stages carrying the road.. Just the same method is
now resorted to on the faces of the giant mountains in the
Himalayas.
About 5 P.M. we arrived at Orsova, putting up at a very
comfortable hotel called the King of Hungary. Orsova is most
romantically situated on the Danube, the Servian mountains
ranging along the opposite bank, while the river itself is banked
by a beautiful range of hills covered with timber.
The regularity with which the town is built, indicates its
original character as a military settlement-a frontier post to
guard against attacks from the Turks. So late as 1854 it was
occupied by a Russian force, thus invading the neutrality of
Austria; but the Turks, who own a small fortified island called
New Orsova, a short distance below the town, drove this Russian
force away. This island still contains a Turkish garrison, and
possesses an armament of old-fashioned guns capable of firing
salutes; but so far from being able to resist an attack from the
implements used in modern warfare, the appearance of its for-
tifications and defences would indicate that they would crumble
to pieces in a few hours under a well-conducted bombard-
ment.
The inhabitants of this part of Hungary wear very singular
dresses. The men are clothed in thick sheepskins, worn with
the wool outside, sheepskin caps, linen trousers, woollen leggings,
and sandals. The women wear a bright red handkerchief on
their heads, a handsome embroidered jacket, with black or red
morocco boots. They also carry a most curious belt round their
body, made of coloured cloth, from which, thickly massed
together and reaching to their ankles, are coloured strings or
fringes, principally red. These give them a singular, but espe-
cially at a short distance, a very pleasing appearance. It cannot
be said that either men or women of this country are handsome
CHAP. VII.]
ON THE DANUBE.
37
but in dress they are very picturesque. The common inhabitants
appear very musical, scarcely one but is able to play on some
instrument.
There was a large colony of Roumalis or gipsies encamped
towards the western part of the town. They were wild in dress
and manner. It is said that they had come from the distant
plains of Hindostan, and that they still retain some knowledge of
the language. I endeavoured to prove this by addressing them
in Hindostanee, but the only word they seemed to understand
was "Auret," or woman. They appeared generally very humble
and dejected. On the following day we passed a band of them
encamped by the roadside, inhabiting blackened and tattered tents,
the children until about ten years of age being perfectly naked.
On Sunday the 25th of June we drove over to the baths of
Mehadia, a distance of about ten miles from Orsova. The road
led by the side of a running stream of water through gorges in
the hills, clothed to their summits with bright foliage. About
half-way we passed the remains of an aqueduct, very solidly
built, but now in ruins, which is said to be of Turkish origin.
Mulberry trees and cherry trees lined the road on either side.
These apparently were considered to have no owners, every one
being free to take what fruit he desired. The cherries were now
ripe, and men and boys were gathering them to sell almost for a
song in the neighbouring towns.
At Mehadia there is a very handsome bathing establishment;
the houses built and furnished with much luxury, the gardens
beautifully laid out; but it was an unhappy sight to see the
invalids of all ages and both sexes who so numerously attended
the springs. The character, however, which these waters bear
for curing pulmonary complaints, as well as cutaneous disorders,
stands so high that they are resorted to from far and near.
The dresses which we met with were most interesting and
38
[CHAP. VII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
particularly gay, every Eastern as well as Frank nationality being
here represented.
TRUM
60%
S
H
MUN
MOTNORDERED
TURKISH AQUEDUCT NEAR MEHADIA.
A large number of well-dressed ladies dined at the restaurant.
I do not see why I should criticise the dexterity with which they
ate peas with their knives, or held their forks over-handed like a
pen. We choose to look upon these as vulgarisms, but if this be
the habit of the principal inhabitants of any country, we certainly
have no right to set up laws for their guidance in such particulars.
CHAP. VIL.]
39
ON THE DANUBE.
Before quitting Hungary, I may briefly allude to an industry
which is making much progress in the country, and is receiving
great attention and encouragement in London-the production
of Hungarian wine. The improvement is owing to the plants
being cultivated with more knowledge and care, and the wine
being more carefully prepared. This I believe is principally
due to the influx of clever Germans with capital, who have set
about planting and improving the vineyards after the manner
of those near the Rhine; and as the soil and climate are in no
way inferior, while the value of the land and the price of labour
are considerably less, there is a fair prospect of a large remunera-
tion. The Hungarian wine generally more resembles Burgundy
than Bordeaux, and is of great strength. There are some very
rich white wines, but these are seldom exported, as they are said
not to bear the carriage.
A
CHAPTER VIII.
DOWN THE DANUBE TO KALAFAT.
THE morning of Monday the 26th of June was quite lovely;
the view from my window embraced the Carpathian mountains
with the noble Danube in the foreground. Fishermen were land-
ing large carp, about seven pounds in weight, which were sold for
sixpence apiece. Gaily-dressed peasants were coming into the
town in crowds, carrying baskets of mountain strawberries, fruits,
and other country produce.
Having determined to continue our journey down the Danube,
we secured places on board a steamer called the Marshal Radetsky,
for Rustchuk.
The passengers on board were very interesting: Turks with
their ladies in national costume; Servians in their handsome brown
dress, their belts stuck full of arms; Wallachian officers; Greek
priests with their wives and families; Armenians; in fact every
nation of the east of Europe appeared to be represented. It was
interesting to observe the strides which the Servian youths who
were on board were making towards the customs of the West.
They had not yet entirely divested themselves of the fez, but had
so far modified it as to place a gold band round the red cap, and
occasionally a black peak in front of it.
The boat in which we now found ourselves was not one of the
express boats, which run only twice a week and stop at few places.
CHAP. VIIS.] DOWN THE DANUBE TO KALAFAT.
41
D
Our boat stopped at every town on the Danube, whether Servian
or Wallachian, and went much slower. The table was not nearly
so well supplied, and the sleeping berths were inferior. We,
however, gained the advantage of seeing more of the country,
and the charges scarcely exceeded one half of the express.
In England a gentleman is considered a very fair colloquial
linguist if he can speak three or even two languages, in addition
to his own, with tolerable fluency, but in the east of Europe almost
every one above the rank of a common peasant is able to converse
fluently in at least three languages; and it is of constant occur-
rence to meet men who can speak seven or eight, with three or
four dialects of each of these in addition. These languages
generally embrace Turkish, Greek, Russian, French, Italian,
German, Spanish, and sometimes English, and frequently in
addition Servian, Bulgarian, or Wallachian.
The gentleman whom I was accustomed to sit next to at dinner
spoke seven languages, and all apparently with equal facility. I
had now, to my great satisfaction, no considerable difficulty in
conversing with a large number of my fellow travellers, from
which I had up to this point unfortunately been precluded by my
ignorance of the German language.
It would be bold in me to advocate as a general rule the study
in England of modern languages, in opposition to that of the
classical literature of the ancients; but as a practical man, I
cannot be blind to the fact of the positive advantages that would
accrue from a more general study of the former. When a man
is cast upon his own resources in the world at large, it is most
desirable that he should be able to meet his fellow men in foreign
countries on an equal footing in this respect.
At twenty miles below Orsova we passed the lower rapids of
the Danube, or what are called the lower iron gates; the water,
however, not being very low there was not much to distinguish
:
42
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. VIII.
them from the other parts of the river. On either bank we
observed various remains of Roman architecture, ancient forts, to
dispute or defend the passage of the river; and the buttresses of a
bridge, said to have been built by Trajan, are occasionally to be
seen when the water is sufficiently low.
At about 2 P.M. we reached Torno Severino, where commerce
of all kinds, but especially agricultural industry, appeared to be
making most rapid strides. The town presented many large
buildings recently erected, and it was satisfactory to observe in
the neighbourhood of the jetty an immense collection of agricul-
tural implements of English manufacture. There were at least
thirty large steam threshing machines, ploughs, etc., etc., over
which a Wallachian sentry was keeping guard.
A traveller from the West on board these vessels must be
struck by the systematic idleness of most of the passengers.
There is but one industry which they carry on with unceasing
activity, and that is smoking; but besides this, and an occasional
game of cards, nothing is done beyond conversation. Not a book
of any kind whatever did I see in the hands of a single
passenger during the entire voyage of two days from Orsova to
Rustchuk.
My son employed himself in sketching many of these singular
groups, and it was curious to observe the different way in which
his amusement was regarded by them. The vanity of some was
conspicuous in a desire that he should delineate them with all
their grandeur, while the cleverness of the old Turkish ladies was
evidenced in their endeavour to prevent the evil eye of the Giaour
from falling upon their children.
In the afternoon the weather became more stifling and sultry,
with an overcast sky, portending a storm. These are of constant
occurrence on the Danube, but to strangers they assume a terrible
aspect. Suddenly, and without warning, the wind rose to a
CHAP. VIII] DOWN THE DANUBE TO KALAFAT.
43
hurricane. The sand and dust from the shore darkened the air,
the river became a sea of foam, and the surging of the waves
was quite extraordinary, considering the width of the river, which
was here not more than a quarter of a mile broad. The light-
ning played round the vessel, the thunder was terrific, the rain
descended in floods; the small fishing-boats flew to the banks
for shelter. Our awning was torn to pieces before it could be
folded up, and the passengers, regardless of classes, rushed pell
mell into the main cabin, instantly shut every window, and most
of them began violently to smoke. Could any position be more
disagreeable? The storm outside was infinitely preferable to
this, and putting on my high boots and india rubber cloak, I
took up a solitary position under the lee of the rudder-house, to
witness the storm in all its glory. These storms of rain are of
the utmost advantage to this dry, but naturally productive
country. Followed by the heat of the sun, they cause a magical
effect on the vegetation.
I was amused by an old Servian Jew, a passenger from
Belgrade, who, in the few Spanish words he had at command,
inquired zealously after the Jews in London, but his enquiries
were more especially directed to their riches than to their faith,
and when I told him they were rich, he added, inquiringly, Very
rich? I said, yes, immensely rich; some of them possessed
barrels and barrels full of gold. I never shall forget the pious
way in which he looked up to Heaven, and from the very pit of
his stomach he said, "Good, ah, very good! these Israelites are
then very rich! To God be thanks!"
About six in the evening we reached Kalafat, in Roumania.
This seemed a very rising place. New houses had been built,
boulevards had been laid out, and a progress resembling that of
an American town was everywhere apparent.
Here again a
large number of threshing machines and other agricultural instru-
44
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. VIII.
ments by Shuttleworth, of Lincolnshire, were resting on the bank,
awaiting transmission into the interior.
I here met a smart young Roumanian gentleman, who loudly
expatiated upon the riches of his rising country, stating that they
possessed lands as rich as the Banat of Hungary, and far more
extensive, and that they now had excellent laws, which were
pretty fairly administered. I hinted that possibly Russia might
again covet so much fertility. "Ah! there indeed is the danger,"
he said; "but we look to you English, and not without reason, for
see, when the other day the Russian said he would abrogate the
Treaty of 1856, you English were the only nation that stood in
the gap. No," said he, we are Romans purer than those of
Italy, and our language is purer still. We still retain the traces of
Trajan's noble works in our country, and we will do honour to
our race and parentage." These certainly are noble sentiments,
and it now remains to be seen whether there is sufficient energy
in the youthful state of Wallachia to carry them into execution.
66
Soon after leaving Kalafat on the northern bank, we reached
Widdin on the southern. This was the first large Turkish city
we had yet arrived at. It is strongly fortified, and is situated in
a very commanding position on the river, the banks of which
are low and flat. Numerous minarets rise up in all parts of
the city, and it being just sunset, the cry of the Muezzin from
their summits, inviting the faithful to prayer, faintly sounded in
the distance. This, however, as we reached the landing place,
was drowned in a babel of voices, all loudly vociferating in
recommendation of their several wares.
Some were selling cherries and various other fruits, others
tobacco, and others again Rahath-li-coom,-"the delight of my
soul"-a very delicious sweetmeat, made, it is said, by the ladies
in the Harems from rice and honey. There was also a fat Turk
wielding an enormous cucumber over his head, and occasionally
CHAP. VIII.] DOWN THE DANUBE TO KALAFAT.
45
stroking his beard with it, while he invited the true believers to
test their digestion. The scene was exceedingly picturesque from
the varied and brilliant dresses.
We continued our journey until nightfall, and then stopped for
three hours, during the extreme darkness of the night. The
heat of the cabin was excessive; at the same time the danger of
sleeping near an open window was considerable, as the malaria
of the Danube is notorious. In the month of June, however,
the season is scarcely sufficiently advanced to render it very
hazardous; but when the vegetation is rank and dead in the
latter end of August and September, it is much to be dreaded.
CHAPTER IX.
TO BUCHAREST.
ON the morning of the 27th June, on looking out of the cabin
window, I found that we were passing large marshes on either
side of the river; hundreds of gigantic pelicans waddled through
the mud, raising their sack-like bills as we passed within fifty
yards of them, while other water birds of various species were
flying in flocks, or whistling round the sedgy pools. What a
magnificent country this must be in October or November for
the sportsman !
We next reached Nicopolis, a very picturesque Turkish city,
for at this part of the Danube the Turks have the advantage
in the banks of the stream being high, while on the opposite, or
Roumanian side, the land is flat and marshy. Opposite to Nico-
polis, and on the northern bank, was a wharf without houses; but
still, on the bank, under charge of a sentry, there was a due com-
plement of English agricultural machines.
The difference between the agricultural activity on the two
sides-the Turkish and the Roumanian-was most striking.
While the Turk is still sleeping, the young and recently emanci-
pated country is seizing all the benefits of the natural advantages
at its command. Smart carriages, with well bred horses, drive up
to the yet unfinished wharfs, to convey the bustling passengers
who leave and enter at every landing-place; while on the
CHAP. IX.]
47
TO BUCHAREST.
Turkish side the ancient gilded and painted Araba, with a pair
of oxen, patiently awaits the chance of a few solitary and silent
merchants. The active habits of the people and the progressive
government now enjoyed by these Sclave States on the banks of
the Danube, have made, and are making, a wonderful change in
this part of Europe.
We had a great change of passengers this morning, but I can-
not say much in favour of the beauty of the Danubian ladies.
We had left Vienna too lately, not to be very critical on this
subject.
At about 11 A.M. we reached Rustchuk, which appears exten-
sively fortified. Here some small commercial improvements
appear to be in progress. The terminus of the Varna Railway
is here erected, a building, however, of the humblest preten-
sions.
Discharging such of the passengers as desired to remain in
Turkey, we immediately left for the opposite town of Giurgevo,
where we landed about noon. Here everything was altered;
and strange, indeed, it was, that the opposite sides of the river
should present such a contrast, the one all activity and progress,
the other remaining in a sleepy inactivity.
The Custom House officer, although allowing immense cases,
the property of his friends, to pass without examination, rigidly
enforced a strict examination of our small portmanteaus.
About five in the afternoon we reached Bucharest. We got
upon the top of the omnibus to obtain a better view of the town
as we entered it. On our way we were detained for a short time
by a funeral party; the body lay on its bier, under a magnificent
canopy, highly carved with the figures of angels, the top richly
gilt and painted. The face was exposed, garlands of flowers sur-
rounding it. The features were those of a man about the age of
fifty-five, pensive and expressive.
48
[CHAP. IX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
After some delay we obtained rooms at Fieschi's Hotel, in the
Strada Sanata. The parliament being in session, the city was so
crowded by the delegates from the provinces, and others who
had parliamentary business, that we were deemed fortunate
in obtaining accommodation at any of the hotels in the town.
CHAPTER X.
BUCHAREST.
BUCHAREST, who can describe it? It embodies all the incon-
gruities of the old and the new world; its inhabitants delight to
call it the Paris of the East, and expatiate upon its many points
of resemblance to its Western Sister. The city is said to cover
an equal number of square miles of ground; and, certainly, the
distances from various points are very great. It is composed
of a heterogeneous mass of hurriedly constructed habitations,
every sort of strange room heaped one on the other, as convenience
dictated and in defiance of all rules of architecture: American
shanties interspersed with plaster palaces and log cabins in con-
fusion with buildings begun, half-finished, and relinquished.
Every building in the city is covered with tin, as a protection
against fire; a few of these roofs were painted red or green, but
generally they were bright. Most of the streets remained un-
paved. The shops were overcrowded with the refuse of Birming-
ham and Paris, which the owners highly extolled, and endeavoured
to dispose of at the most exaggerated prices.
The city is said to contain 180,000 inhabitants, and it remains
to be seen whether its new institutions and government, modelled
on the Parisian form, will bring it to a state of prosperity, and
whether it will bear the strain which democracy and republi-
canism are likely to put upon it.
E
50
[CHAP. X.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
These were our first impressions on visiting the city of Bu-
charest, but I desire so far to modify them, as to say that upon a
closer and less hurried examination we found that very consi-
derable improvements were in course of progress near the new
Opera House, in the centre of the city. There the streets are
being paved with granite from Aberdeen, some monster hotels
are being constructed on the newest principles, boulevards are
being laid out in the widest of the streets, and handsome build-
ings erected for academical and similar purposes.
One of our first duties was to pay our respects to Mr. Green,
the Consul-General, by whom we were most kindly and hospitably
received, and who personally presented us to the Minister-at-War,
the Commander-in-Chief, General Floresco, the Maréchal du
Palais, and other gentlemen of distinction. We also formed the
acquaintance of Mr. Slade, the nephew of the late Turkish High
Admiral, who was most attentive and kind to us.
In the afternoon we drove to the Champs Elysées of Bucharest.
On our way we passed through a better part of the city, where
the shops were somewhat improved; yet they appeared to have
but little in them-as in one, nothing was sold but foxes' tails, and
what they could do with such a number I could not imagine.
In this part of the town, many new shops and hotels are in course
of erection. The money at Bucharest is most annoying; no-
thing but an arbitrary nominal coinage exists, called Bucharest
piasters, into which all the money of the neighbouring countries
must be nominally changed, causing at each purchase the utmost
perplexity and inconvenience to strangers.
We hired one of the carriages in the Square, a pretty Vic-
toria, well horsed, and at a very reasonable price; although hired
by the hour, this acts by no means as in other countries, where
hiring by the time insures a crawling pace: here, on the con-
trary, it would seem as if they determined to try and see
CHAP. X.]
BUCHAREST.
51
what was the utmost distance they could accomplish in the
hour.
A curious custom also exists of never informing the coachman
where you desire him to go, and the drivers, in consequence,
neither know nor have occasion to learn the name of a single
street. The instant you step into the Victoria-the usual car-
riage of the country-the driver sets off at a furious pace, pulling
at his horses, who, like the American, go all the faster in conse-
quence: you must then intimate to him where you wish to go,
by giving him, from time to time, at each turning in the road, a
light touch on either shoulder with your cane. A stranger who
is unacquainted with this habit, and equally so with the city
itself, by neglecting this will ere long find himself whirled along,
he knows not whither; and the coachman himself will be equally
surprised at receiving no directions as to his route, until he has
got far out of the city.
At the Chaussée, in Bucharest, on the summer evening, most of
the fashion of the city appear; many of the carriages are hand-
somely turned out, with very well-bred horses; some are profusely
caparisoned with highly-decorated harness, while in others, every
art was resorted to, to see how little harness it was possible to
put on―occasionally consisting of no more than a bridle, a pair
of traces, and reins. The pace at which all the coachmen drive
is most remarkable—it appeared a point of honour with every one
never to go less than twelve miles an hour.
We finished our tour at Hughes' Hotel-here pronounced
Huicks, said to be the best restaurant in the city; we, however,
were not fortunate, for we had a very poor and a very expensive
dinner; and on the following morning our breakfast was worse
and dearer still. The gentlemen of Bucharest are slaves to what
is considered fashionable; and, although it seems to be universally
allowed that Mr. Hughes' restaurant is extortionate and very
E 2
52
[CHAP. X.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
indifferent, yet, as fashion commands, they dare not go else-
where. Mr. Hughes came, some years since, to Bucharest from
Paris, as cook to a wealthy Boyard, and so successful has he been
that he now is said to possess a fine property in France, and is
worth, they say, fifty thousand pounds sterling.
The constant alterations in the climate at Bucharest are most
remarkable and dangerous. At 1 P.M. the thermometer in my
room, which looked northward, was 81 degrees of Fahrenheit,
and by 5 P.M. it had fallen to 50-a difference of 31 degrees in
four hours the night became cold, and the following morning,
though it was in the month of June, was like an English autumn :
by one next day it had again risen to 76. Possibly the climate
may be affected by the Carpathian mountains, which, in a
direct line, are not more than sixty or seventy miles from the city.
On Wednesday morning, the 28th of June, we walked to the
Tcheissmay-ju Gardens: these are prettily laid out, and in the
very centre of the city, and contain an area about equal to
that of St. James's Park.
We also, later in the day, visited the Parliament House, but,
in consequence of the sitting on that day being voted secret, we
could not enter the Chamber itself. In the ante-room, however,
the Consul-General presented us to General Floresco, the
Minister-at-War, and some other persons of distinction, who took
the trouble to come out of the Chamber to receive us, when they
were told that we were there. The view from the old Monastery,
in which from long usage the Parliament sits, is very beautiful,
and shows the great extent of the city of Bucharest.
On the morning of the 29th June, General Floresco called
personally at our hotel, at 7 A.M., and conducted us in his own
carriage to the exercising ground, at the edge of the city, a very
extensive plain, and well adapted to this purpose. Here we were
provided with horses, and rode to meet the troops-a brigade
CHAP. X.]
53
BUCHAREST.
which had been directed to parade in order that I might see a
sample of the army of Roumania.
This brigade consisted of a battery of Field Artillery, two
regiments of Cavalry, and three regiments of Infantry, one of
Chasseurs, one of the Line, and one of Engineers. The term of
enlistment is only for three years, consequently they were com-
posed of very young soldiers, averaging, I was assured, not
more than a year and a half in the service. They performed a
few drill manœuvres, which they executed exceedingly well, the
Artillery especially; indeed it was surprising to see how much
they had acquired in the limited time which they had had for
instruction. The soldiers of the Cavalry seemed to ride with firm
seats, but this is not surprising, as the natives of these plains,
like the Hungarians, may be said to be born in the saddle. The
words of the officers were given in a firm tone of voice, and the
Infantry officers rode very well. At the termination of the review
the troops marched past.
The whole parade was very creditable indeed. The next and
most vital question to be solved is-how this army will conduct
itself in the field and before the enemy. Hitherto it has not
gained many laurels; but when it is considered how few years
have passed since this nation was in a state of the most abject
slavery to the Turk, it is not surprising if they yet require some
years of freedom to give them energy and confidence.
I make these remarks because the want of bravery of the
Roumanian troops has been commented upon pretty freely. It
is said that on the occasion of the last outbreak in Bulgaria
much sympathy was shown for the movement in Roumania, and
that the Turks threatened to cross the Danube. On hearing this
the whole force then in Giurgevo vanished-the officers setting the
example by first leaving their men, and the men following to the
capital. It cannot be expected that a nation ground down by a
54
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. X.
tyrannous rule for years can at once redeem themselves from the
failings which oppression produces, and, probably, until they
have, in conjunction with some well-tried nation, had experience
in war, they will not, in reality, display such Roman virtues as
they now possess by name.
After the parade we visited the Arsenal, which may be said to
be in a state of formation. The machinery had been imported
from Liege. There were five or six batteries of brass twelve-
pounder guns made in France, and some mitrailleuses. The officer
in charge appeared very intelligent, and most interested in his
duties.
At 3 P.M. we were presented at the Palace to T.R.H. the Crown
Prince and Princess of Bucharest. The Crown Prince was very
kind and pleasant, and I hope he may prove equal to the intrigues
of a large portion of the community which he has to govern.
He cannot be considered to rest on a bed of roses, but the great
success of the Germans may go far to assure his position. Sup-
ported, as he naturally would be, by the great influence of the
Germanic Empire, his own subjects, as well as foreign govern-
ments, will be very cautious how they endeavour either by intrigue
or by violence to displace him. His mild manners, however, are
scarcely suited to the rough race over which destiny has called
him to rule. The Princess is possessed of the most charming
manner, in which she greatly resembles the Princess of Wales.
She is exceedingly handsome, and speaks English fluently.
Lad
In the evening we accepted an invitation from Mons. Otto-
tellachanos to a large party or fête, which he was to give to the
Crown Prince, at his country seat, called Mozarilla, about nine
miles from Bucharest. I had the advantage of being taken there
by Sir Robert Dalzell, her Majesty's Consul at Rustchuk, who,
from his long and perfect knowledge of the East, entertained me
very much by his anecdotes on Eastern subjects.
CHAP. X.]
55
BUCHAREST,
+
We arrived at Mozarilla about 9 P.M., driving through the
grounds to a very extensive château. The grounds were laid out
in the English style, by a gardener who was of great repute
in Bucharest, and who had laid out the park above spoken
of, in the city at the Tcheiss-may-ju. The gardens were tastefully
illuminated, and fireworks were added to the entertainment.
The Prince embarked in a sort of flat-bottomed canoe, the
better to witness their effect upon the water. He was accom-
panied by a very handsome lady, attached to the Court; the
boat being managed by one of his staff, who, however, from being
totally unskilled in the art of rowing, very nearly finished the
dynasty, the Prince and his party escaping by a miracle from
being upset into the deepest part of the lake.
The entertainment was concluded by cards, dancing, and
supper. Only married ladies were present, it not being con-
sidered en règle that the unmarried should be present at any
parties or balls, except the few full-dress balls which take place
during the winter in the capital.
It is very difficult for a stranger to dive deeply into the truth
as to the morals of any community on a slight acquaintance he
is apt either, on the one hand, to entertain too high an opinion of
them, or, on the other, from some gossiping anecdotes which may
be related to him, to condemn the whole society en masse.
In
every society scandal has a long tongue, and there are open ears
at all times to receive it. The customs of Bucharest may be
deeply belied; but report says that a strict attention to the mar-
riage vow is rather the exception than the rule.
Although beauty in Bucharest cannot be said to equal that of
Vienna, yet good looks are very general, and to these is added
the charm of most pleasing and captivating manners.
It is allowable by law that a decree of divorce may be obtained
three times during life, an example of which has already been
56
[СНДР. Х.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
given by a certain princess, moving in the highest society. When
reminded that no further chances would be open to her, she
answered, "I beg your pardon; my first marriage was with my
cousin, and consequently was illegal, and does not count at all;
and thus one more opportunity is yet open to me."
Amongst the lower classes great irregularities in this respect
are said to exist; but it must be borne in mind that but one
generation since, the whole community were in a state of serfdom
and slavery, and it can scarcely be expected that an entire regene-
ration of morals should immediately take place. Paris has been
professed as their model, and it is to be seen what will be the
result to this community, in its government and morals, of the
example thus adopted.
Duelling in Bucharest is by no means uncommon. There is a
story of a Jewish gentleman, peaceable in his disposition, but
who was challenged to fight three young Roumanian gentlemen
in succession. The challenged party has the right of priority of
firing. The Jew, most unwillingly, went to the meeting; but,
when there, determined to do the best he could. At the first shot
he hit his opponent exactly on the third button of his coat, upon
which he had steadily kept his eye, and killed him on the spot.
He then did exactly the same with his second opponent; when
the third, seeing what had befallen his predecessors, said he
thought there must be some mistake in all the circumstances of
the quarrel, and begged that differences might be adjusted in an
amicable manner.
The subject of railway communication was creating the greatest
interest in this country. It appeared that, by some unwise and
unfortunate concessions which had been made, a loss to the
country of many millions must result, and it was thought best to
put up with this loss, rather than repudiate any of their engage-
ments, even although they may have been entered into under a
CHAP. X.]
BUCHAREST.
57
fraudulent arrangement, for it is said that bribes and counter-
bribes are by no means uncommon, even between the highest
functionaries in the State.
Until lately great dissatisfaction existed throughout all Rou-
mania in regard to the tenure of land. The Boyards claimed the
entire right of the soil. Had this been insisted on, a revolution
must have occurred. The matter was adjusted by an arrange-
ment that after ten years one-fourth of the land should be in fce
simple the actual property of the occupier. This at first much
alarmed the owners, and they thought they should be ruined, as
they felt that the one-fourth would alone be cultivated, and no
labour would be obtainable to cultivate the remainder. The
result, however, differed widely from their anticipations; for the
tenants now, finding that they had a personal interest in the soil,
not only laboured zealously on their own allotments, but, in addi-
tion, hired the portions which the landlords had retained, and
thus both parties have benefited—a result which, it may be hoped,
will be produced by our recent legislation in Ireland.
The education of the upper classes is now much attended to.
Colleges are being erected for the young men, many of whom
have hitherto been compelled to receive their education in Western
Europe, which is said to engender a distaste for their native
country on their return home.
As far as accomplishments go, the ladies also receive great
attention. In the wealthy families it is the habit to engage
French, Italian, and sometimes English governesses and servants,
and thus a large amount of colloquial knowledge in languages is
secured; and, as they are naturally very quick and apt pupils,
the rapidity with which they acquire it, is quite astonishing. The
geographical position of the country, moreover, renders a know-
ledge of languages almost obligatory, and thus a Roumanian who
has the slightest pretension to a position above that of a peasant
<
58
[CHAP. X.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
can always speak at least two languages besides his own; and in
consequence of the Parisian model which they have adopted, one
of these is generally French; and the other, from the influence of
religious sentiment, is generally Greek.
In character the Wallachians more resemble the Greeks than
any other nation. Like them, they are very quick and clever,
and somewhat cunning, and are accused of being not wanting in
deception. Like them, they have been for generations slaves to
the Mussulman; and it must take many years to produce in
them that freedom of mind which is scarcely to be found in any
country which has not, for generations, had the responsibility of
self-government.
CHAPTER XI.
SCHUMLA.
On the morning of Friday, the 30th June, leaving Bucharest
by rail, we arrived at Giurgevo about 10.30 A.M., had a bad and
dear breakfast at the Bella Vista Hotel, and then crossed over by
a small Turkish steamer to Rustchuk.
The bank on the Turkish side of the Danube dominates consi-
derably the other shore, and a project is in contemplation of
connecting the two by a monster bridge on so high a level as to
allow the largest vessels that navigate the Danube to sail freely
under. This is not likely to be realised for many years, as the
expense would be enormous, with no chance of a fair return for
the outlay.
Bucharest is never likely to become the great high road to
India. Vienna, Pesth, and Belgrade will, ere many years are
passed, very probably be so; for when the rail is finished through
Belgrade and Adrianople direct to Constantinople, it will give an
impetus to the proposed line across Turkey in Asia by Aleppo
and Bagdad; and should this be carried out, and the connecting
link be added from Constantinople to Aleppo, then this direct
land route will be made use of by every one proceeding to the
East Indies. By that time, there is no doubt, the line from
Kurrachee to Mooltan will be completed, giving access to the
Punjaub and the northern portion of India; and probably another
60
[CHAP. XI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
line from Kurrachee through Kattiwar to join the central Indian
line, thereby giving speedy access to Calcutta. The only sea
voyage which will then have to be performed will be on the
Persian Gulf.
In years to come, and when civilisation has made more rapid
strides in Persia and Affghanistan, possibly the road to India
will be entirely by land-that is, through Southern Russia
to Rostow, Stravrapol, Derbent, Bakou, and by the southern
shore of the Caspian, into Affghanistan, Cabul, and Lahore-but
from present appearances, many years must clapse ere we can
look for so great a change in the wild inhabitants who frequent
this line, as to render the idea practicable.
The Turkish town of Rustchuk is very interesting—especially
on a first inspection. The pipe-makers are exceedingly expert,
and are renowned for making those beautiful black bowls for the
pipes, inlaid with silver. One old Turk working a sewing
machine amused us much.
Sir Robert Dalzell, the British consul here, gave us letters of
introduction to Schumla, which were of the utmost service.
Friday being the Turkish Sabbath, I could not be received by
the Pasha of Rustchuk. This I regretted, as he is reported to be
most intelligent, and a man of progress. The greatest attention
was shown to us by Mr. Russell, a civil engineer connected with
the Varna Railroad, a nephew, I believe, of Dr. W. Russell.
On Saturday morning, the 1st of July, we started by rail for
Schumla. This line is in bad repute here, being looked upon as
a job, by which, it is asserted, certain English engineers made
large sums of money, and then sold it to a Belgian company. It
would seem to pay very badly, and to be by no means an enviable
investment; and when the Belgrade line is completed it probably
will have no traffic at all.
The scenery about Tchernavoda is very fine, and a much larger
CHAP. XI.]
SCHUMLA.
61
area of land is now cultivated than when I passed over this
country about thirty years previously.
We remained a few minutes for dinner at Shitan-jik, or
"the
Little Devil," and about 1 P.M. we reached the Schumla road
station. Hiring a carriage we immediately proceeded to the town
of Schumla. On our arrival, we were most kindly and hospitably
received by Réshid Pasha-i. e., General Strecher-who gave us
rooms in his own house, and entertained us during our stay.
General Strecher is by birth a Prussian. In the war of 1855-6,
seeing what he considered a good opening, he took service in the
German branch of the Contingent which we then raised, and in
which, had the war continued, he would certainly have distin-
guished himself. Unfortunately for him, peace was made, and
being in the East, he considered that his best chance of prefer-
ment was to join the Turkish service; but, as he would not
become a renegade to his religion, he has not been engaged
actually as a combative officer, but his very valuable services
have been employed in giving instruction to the artillery. For
many years he was stationed at Erzeroum in Asia, but latterly
a higher field has been opened to his exertions, and he has now
the charge and the instruction of the scientific branches of the
army at the large Camp of Schumla.
In the cool of the evening we drove to the Camp, and presented
ourselves to His Excellency the Mushir Pasha, Abdul Kerim,
Field Marshal in the Sultan's army. We were received with the
highest consideration, pipes and coffee being handed to us in
Oriental fashion, &c.
The Camp was not at the time very full of troops, but the force
of infantry then on parade mustered about four thousand men,
and these the Mushir Pasha directed to be formed into column by
divisions and brigades and to march past-to give me, as he said,
an opportunity of judging how greatly they had improved since
62
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
[CHAP. XI.
I had had the honour of commanding a division of about six
thousand of them, some sixteen years previously.
Echor
!!!!!!
12
RECEPTION BY MUSHIR PASHA AT SCHUMLA.
They are fine, strong, able-bodied men-not very well set up,
according to our acceptation of the term-but possessing all the
qualities requisite for a campaign. They kept well in lines by
grand divisions, and I was much struck by the general improve-
ment in dress, in figure, and in the movement of these troops
since I had served with this army. But I regretted to see that
in their marching they had adopted an exaggerated French swing
of the arms. The distances between the companies were well
preserved, as also between battalions, and the pace correctly
sustained. The music, too, was altogether changed from that of
the old tunes which we remembered on the heights of Sebastopol.
The men were well clothed in stout blue cloth jackets, vests,
CHAP. XI.]
63
SCHUMLA.
and a sort of knickerbockers, gaiters, and blucher boots; and
although the clothing was somewhat worn, yet I perceived no
holes or tatters, and the boots were well laced up. The knapsack
is of cow's hide, and the greatcoat is folded round it, after the
Turkish fashion.
In marching-order the soldier would seem to be too heavily-
laden; but this I believe to be the universal fault with every
army, and I believe that the day will arrive when armies will be
so organised that to every fighting-man will be allotted a mate,
whose sole duty will be that of assisting him in the carriage of
his food, his spare ammunition, &c.
I have dwelt perhaps too minutely on this subject; but I am
well aware that there is felt a great interest at home as to
whether the sick man is really so ill as not to be able to hold his
own against the possible inroads of the Bear of the north; and
the state of his army, therefore, must naturally be a point of
primary consideration.
General Strecher spoke of the rations now served out to the
troops as being very superior to what they were formerly, both in
quality and in quantity, and said that the pay of the men was
seldom in arrears to any considerable amount. As far as I could
learn all the troops are enlisted by conscription, the term of
service being six years-three in the active list and three in the
reserve. Forty pounds is paid to the Government to find a
substitute; but as the entire army is taken from the Turkish
population alone, military service must press very heavily indeed
upon them. An extra tax is levied upon Christians, Jews, and
Armenians in lieu of military service.
The officers of the army are formed from two classes-from
those non-commissioned officers who remain in the army after
their compulsory term of service has expired, and from cadets
brought from the Military College in Pera; but the advancement
64
[CHAP. XI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
of officers is generally considered to be conducted very much by
favouritism. The pay of the lieutenants is very poor indeed.
In addition to clothes and rations, they receive but little more
than two pounds sterling per month, and as they are generally
married men, this barely suffices to keep them above indigence.
Unfortunately while we were at Schumla the cavalry and the
artillery were encamped in the different valleys near the Camp,
for the purpose of refreshing the horses on the young grass, a
custom very usual in the East at this season; we had thus no
opportunity of seeing the whole together, or any manœuvres on a
large scale.
After an interview with the Mushir Pasha we drove through
the Camp, which was kept in a state of the most perfect neatness
and cleanliness; and here again was a wonderful change for the
better; the latrine system, however, appeared very faulty.
We next looked at some of the fortifications. The town of
Schumla is situated in a ravine, between the projecting points of
two high hills; below the town is a vast plain. At present the
apex of one of these mountains is fortified, and four other works
of no great consideration exist in the plain. The plan now about
to be executed is to fortify the point of the other hill, and to
increase the works on the plain by three new ones, and thus the
camp will be fortified by nine distinct works. I confess that I do
not understand the general object; if the camp at Schumla is
held by a very considerable force, this army could move out and
attack the advancing enemy; if it is held by a small one it
would appear by no means difficult for a superior force first
to possess itself of one outwork and then to take the rest in
succession. The Turks seem to be of opinion that the whole
is far from perfect; but they ask, what can be done without
money? and properly to fortify this extended position would cost
an immense sum.
CHAP. XI.]
65
SCHUMLA.
The Turkish Government are now laying down a railroad at
their own cost, from the Schumla road station to the Camp,
which will, when finished, prove a great blessing to the peasantry
of the country, as they will no longer be compelled to give up
the use of their carts for the conveyance of the Government
stores. But why, instead of an expensive railroad made for loco-
motives, did they not lay down a common tramway, which at one
fourth part of the cost, would have answered all their requirements ?
I mentioned this afterwards to the Seraskier Pasha at Constan-
tinople, but he answered that a railway had been decided upon,
which eventually would lead through Adrianople to Constan-
tinople, and that this was the commencement of it. This line,
however, presents such immense natural difficulties, that it would
never be chosen by a railway engineer.
The Turkish soldier still retains the habit of halting and facing
his officer when he salutes, a source of continual detention. It is
singular that this custom has not been altered.
At a very pleasant supper with General Strecher we were
much interested by his account of his services at Erzeroum, and in
the country which lies to the south of it, a large portion of which
he had personally surveyed and mapped.
F
CHAPTER XII.
VARNA.
ON the morning of the 2nd July we drove round Schumla,
visiting first the Tartar quarters, which appeared more orderly
and prosperous than those of the native Turks. I may mention
that after the war in the Crimea about three hundred and fifty
thousand Crim Tartars, who did not care to remain under Russian
rule, either feeling themselves somewhat compromised or from
religious scruples, were imported into Bulgaria or into the
Dobruska. About one hundred and fifty thousand of these poor
people died, some from sickness and many from starvation; but
those that now remain in Schumla and Varna appear to be doing
well, as they are more orderly and neat than the Turks.
About two hundred and fifty thousand Circassians have also
come over, having quitted the Caucasus after the defeat and
capture of Shamyl; but these wild people fared worse than the
Tartars: they killed and ate the oxen which the Government
gave them to till their fields, and they also consumed the seed,
and then being in a starving state they asked for more. It
was stated that nothing could exceed the scenes of horror from
starvation among these wretched people; even worse than those
in Ireland in 1846, or in Persia at the present time.
The country round Schumla is well cultivated, producing fine
crops; but as the farmers will not use manure they are compelled
CHAP. XII.]
07
VARNA.
occasionally to rest the land by letting it lie fallow. Small hills
of manure lie heaped near the artillery barracks, which the
farmers were at liberty to take away, but such is the apathy or
prejudice of this people, that they will not remove that which in
western countries would be eagerly purchased.
On returning we met a Turkish funeral. The body was just
being consigned to the earth. It was carried to the grave in a
coffin, out of which it was then taken and laid in the cold earth
in its burial clothes, the coffin being returned to be used again on
a similar occasion. This custom I had previously observed among
the Chinese.
On the 3rd July we bid adieu to General Strecher, and left
Schumla. We soon passed swamps two or three miles broad.
Nothing could be more easy than to drain this large area of land
and render it fertile. But in Turkey nothing is done that re-
quires energy or outlay. And why expect this to be done when
a thousand more profitable speculations are neglected?
We passed again the well-remembered villages where our
division had been stationed during the war: Pravedy, Devna,
Alladin, etc., etc., etc. And now the unfortunate selection of
these encamping grounds in close proximity to the marshes was
more apparent than ever. Alas! how many British soldiers
now rest here, the victims of fever, ague, and cholera.
How easy it would be to avoid such mistaken selections of
ground by instituting an information department in our army.
Placing an experienced officer at its head, all that would be re-
quired would be to invite information from every officer in Her
Majesty's service who travelled, and as no nation travels more,
and in that nation none so much as military men, such informa-
tion would be most extensive. Carefully selecting, under a good
system, every important point, a tabular framework could be laid
down of everything likely to be useful to a General occupying
F 2
68
[CHAP. XII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
6
any part of the world; and he would thus be enabled to make
choice of places for landing and camping, having regard to wells,
forage for his cattle, sanatory posts, etc., etc. Such knowledge
was entirely wanting to our army when we landed on the shores
of Bulgaria, before invading the Crimea.
We arrived at Varna about 7 P.M., and were received by
the Prussian Consul, who was acting for the British Consul; and
we took up our quarters at the Hôtel d'Angleterre, a poor little
place, with a sharp landlady, and in which we were made to
smart in our persons by the insects, and in our purses by the
charges.
Varna has but little altered since our occupation. The great
fire, at which I remember to have seen Marshal St. Arnaud and
Marshal Lord Raglan, has been the cause of some improvement
in the town. The port is still without any breakwater or other
harbour work. The sultry weather was here as before, but, thank
God, the cholera was not. A Turkish bath was most refreshing
after our journey. The bath building is smaller than that at
Constantinople, but is quite as well conducted.
On the following morning a refreshing dip in the sea
strengthened us for the heat of the day. A very nice bathing
shed has been erected in a convenient position, not far outside
the city walls, which is very much frequented, both by Turks
and Greeks. The natives of the borders of the Black Sea are
wonderful swimmers, and enjoy for hours a recreation so appro-
priate to this climate. The men who commonly bathe in the
harbour have a curious habit of scraping themselves with pieces
of rough bricks and tiles on coming out of the water, which, I
have no doubt, is very healthy for the skin, acting in the same
manner as the friction used in the Turkish baths.
We walked through the town in the morning, and saw Lord
Raglan's house, the French barracks, and the Magazines,—which
CHAP. 69
1
XII.]
VARNA.
were so nearly blown up in the great fire. In the evening we
drove out in company with the Prussian Consul to his country
garden, in which the vines and other fruits were most luxuriant.
He told me that the quality of the grape was excellent, but
that in consequence of there being no one near Varna acquainted
with the art of making wine, nor any proper appliances for its
manufacture, the wine was generally spoilt, and that, although
he had used his best endeavours to form a sort of company, with
some central building at which all the wine in the district might
be properly made, under the superintendence of an experienced
German, and with the proper implements; yet so backward was
the spirit of enterprise, that he had failed to induce any one to
join him. The price of French, German, and other well made
wines in Constantinople is very considerable, and a large profit
therefore, would appear quite certain, if such an undertaking were
well carried out.
From what we saw at Varna, it would appear that Turkey had
not changed very much, and certainly not enough to satisfy Europe.
They have formed superior councils in Constantinople, delegated
from all the provinces, and Christians are admitted to them; but
practically they have no power, as in reality it is only a council
of examination, whose opinion, when recorded, can be accepted
or rejected by the Grand Vizier and the Sultan at pleasure.
The law in the provinces is said to be in a very degraded position
-the judges open to presents; and the very fact of possessing
a new French code acts as a cloak by which they can at any time
cover their judgments.
I enquired what generally were the feelings of the Bulgarian
peasants towards Russia, and was told that they were very much
changed, and that, subjected as they are to the will of the
Turk, yet they feel convinced that under the Russians they
would be more abject still, and with the disadvantage of
70
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
[CHAP. XII.
not being exempted from military conscription as they now
are.
The lower classes in Bulgaria are very ignorant and un-
educated. The middle and higher classes are very intelligent;
many of them attend schools and colleges in Constantinople, and
I was told that the Bulgarians are considered as the most apt
of all the scholars,
Before leaving Varna, I made enquiries as to the price of
meat and bread, and found there was but little difference
between these and our home prices; for although immense quan-
tities of corn are grown in the interior, there is scarcely any means
of transport, and as there is no harbour or wharf in Varna to
screen the shipping, all corn has to be landed in boats, and
the carting nearly equals the cost of its freight to England. At
Varna my son purchased some of the very finest Paris water-
colour brushes, and for next to nothing. How they could have
got there we were at a loss to imagine.
On the 5th July we started by the steamer for Constantinople.
How different was the scene on the bay from that which pre-
sented itself at the time of my embarkation for the Crimea, in
1854. Now six or eight small vessels lay at anchor in the bay;
then, in conjunction with the French, counting men-of-war and
transports, we had eight hundred and fifty ships before the town.
The labour and excitement of that embarkation can never be for-
gotten by any one who held a position of responsibility in it.
Int
p
HOLA MILEST
INTE
IMAG
BURSLA
........
Araining
ルランパ
​SCUTARI. THE TURKISH BARRACK, THE HOSPITAL, AND MONUMENT TO BRITISH
SOLDIERS.
P. 70.
1
UNIV
OF
M
Cho
CHAPTER XIII.
STEAMER TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
THE Vessel in which we embarked for Constantinople was
called the Maximilian. As yet there is no railroad through Bul-
garia, and the Turks would not be over-ready to form one near
this coast, as it might be turned to the advantage of Russia in
case of an advance upon Constantinople. The Austrian steamers
possess a sort of monopoly on this line, which it is surprising the
Turks should allow, as the profits must be enormous. The
charge is sixty-five francs for one night on board, including two
mcals; though the steamer is quite a second-rate vessel in every
way.
The smell on board, resembling that of guano, was overpowering.
There were in crates on deck no less than nine thousand fowls;
cach crate was about five feet long and two feet broad, and con-
tained sixty fowls, No food or water was given to these
unfortunate animals during their detention on board; vainly
did they stretch their necks out, and, with open bills, pant for
water. The ducks, again, seemed to feel it still more, and to be
in great pain. The mate of the ship did not seem to understand
our remarking upon the cruelty towards these poor creatures,
but informed us that not unfrequently five hundred cases
were shipped in a single voyage, containing no less than thirty
thousand fowls, that of course great numbers were suffocated,
ም
71
72
[CHAP. XIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
and that they often carry in addition as many as one thousand
sheep. These are crowded into a comparatively small space
below decks, and as there is not room otherwise, they frequently
put them in layers, one layer standing on the backs of the other.
On their arrival at Constantinople, many are found suffocated,
and when we reflect how much these sheep can bear, they must
suffer greatly in this horrid traffic.
All these sheep are horned, and the method of getting them
on board is singularly barbarous. They are tied together four at
a time by their horns, and being then hoisted up, are allowed to
drop fifty feet into the hold of the ship. But so strong are these
mountain sheep, that they do not break their legs in the fall,
although they are rather stunned by it; the rope running out,
fortunately somewhat checks the violence of their fall. The
market of the immense city of Constantinople must be supplied
with food of all kinds, but it is horrible to think that such
dreadful cruelty should be practised upon
upon these poor animals.
A large portion of the poop-deck was screened off with sails,
etc., etc.; this arrangement being made for the family of a Pasha
who was going to Constantinople, and behind this screen was
located his harem. On entering the vessel the faces of the
ladies were carefully concealed with the yasmak, but when they
had entered their temporary lodging this was removed, and as
a large portion of the partition was nothing but an open grating,
there was no difficulty in observing the whole family, which con-
sisted of about seven very good-looking ladies, who made no
effort to conceal their faces, and one hideous Nubian slave girl,
who took great pains to conceal hers.
The young son of the Pasha was a very good-looking boy,
about nine years of age, who already bore the rank in the army
of Kaima Kam, or major. To the sons of Pashas is frequently
accorded a positive rank in the army, with pay, while they are
CHAP. XIII.]
STEAMER TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
73
yet infants. Such indeed was sometimes the case in England a
century ago, as shown by the well-known anecdote of the nurse,
who, on being asked who was crying in the nursery, answered,
Oh, my lady, it's only the colonel, who is very fractious with
his teeth."
("
On Thursday, the 6th of July, we found ourselves about fifteen
miles from the entrance of the Bosphorus; the morning was
beautifully bright and calm, and I could recognise many of the
well-known hills on which I had been encamped in 1855, when
in command of a Turkish division, lovely and picturesque posi-
tions looking over the Black Sea. We soon ran that distance,
and rounding the castle lighthouse hove-to opposite the health
station of Kavach. Here we left the vessel, and taking a caique
for Therapia, we danced over the waves of the Bosphorus.
Therapia at this season is a cooler and pleasanter place than
Pera, therefore we thought it would be more agrecable to spend
at least a few days there.
The new house on the Bosphorus, built for the summer resi-
dence of the British ambassador, had a most imposing appear-
ance; it is handsome, large, well built, and excellently planned.
Very great credit is certainly due to Sir Henry Elliott, not only
for this success, which I believe was entirely due to himself, but
also for getting the work entirely finished for less than the esti-
mated cost of ten thousand pounds.
The enemy I afterwards met in the Sea of Azof attacked me, but
these choleraic symptoms soon yielded to the skill of Dr. Paul
Hyades, a French physician attached to the service of the new
French Republic. His kindness and attention deserve my
warmest gratitude.
I remained for some days at Therapia, during which time my
son hired a room at the top of the Hotel Pest, in Pera; the view
from his apartment was truly magnificent. Immediately in front
74
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XIII.
was the Bosphorus, the lovely little Maiden Tower in the middle
of the stream, and Scutari in the background; on the right the
Seraglio Palace and old Stamboul, the Golden Horn, etc.; and
on the left the magnificent palace of Dolme Batche, and the
arsenal of Tophane. He enjoyed himself day after day in roam-
ing over the old city, which, though well known to me, was new
to him.
ル
​باد.
I OF
OF I
GERMEER
HE
STEFL/
ampant
LOF
inay
Maunum
THE BRAZEN SERPENT FROM DELPHI, NOW AT CONSTANTINOPLE.
#
P. 75.
MIC
CHAPTER XIV.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
ON Saturday, the 15th of July, I paid my respects to the
Seraskier Pasha, or Commander-in-Chief and Minister-of-War of
His Imperial Majesty's army, at the new War Office in the centre
of Stamboul. After a short general conversation about the army
and the old war, respecting which he gave very guarded opinions,
he showed me the magnificent rooms which had been lately built
for the use of this military department. They had been lavishly
decorated and furnished with the handsomest and softest carpets.
from Smyrna, and the most luxurious sofas and easy chairs from
Paris. Much as I admired the whole, it was exceedingly difficult
for me to divine the use of all this luxury in a military office.
Constantinople, including Pera, is wonderfully altered since the
war. Enormous fires, which have taken place on either side of
the Golden Horn, have swept away square miles of the curious
old wooden houses, which in Stamboul have to a certain extent.
been replaced by more modern buildings of stone. This, how-
ever, does not seem to have been done with any regular order
or system, and consequently there are between these fine build-
ings wide gaps, containing rubbishy looking little shanties,
with rough, horrid roads, and dirty foul wastes in all directions.
In Pera things appear as if they would probably assume a
better position. I hear that a municipal council has been
76
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XIV.
appointed, and if its sittings are conducted without jobbery and
corruption, no doubt excellent results will follow, and Pera with
its immense wealth will become a really fine town. Unfortu-
nately the great fire of 1870 included in its ravages the splendid
building of the British Embassy, the walls of which, however,
are still intact. Sir Henry and Lady Elliott lost almost every
thing they possessed in the burning of the palace.
WWW
COLUMN IN THE MOSQUE OF SULIMAN.
Tramways have already been laid down in the streets of Galata,
in the lower part of the Christian city. In consequence of the
streets being so narrow, they create the greatest danger and con-
fusion; but they have the advantage of acting to a certain extent
-
CHAP. XIV.]
77
CONSTANTINOPLE.
as a counterpoise to the rapacity of the steamboat companies on
the river, in regard to the inconvenience of whose boats too much
cannot be said.
The worry occasioned by the obstinate use of Turkish time has
not been as yet abated, it having been found impossible to induce
the Grand Molah to consent to the adoption of the Christian
computation of time. The Turks count the day from sunset to
sunset, and as the time of sunset changes every day of the year,
it is requisite to make a fresh calculation of time, involving a
fresh setting of watches, every day. Can anything be more
pig-headed than to insist upon retaining so obsolete a custom?
In regard to the appearance and dress of the Turkish ladies,
astonishing modifications have taken place; the thick yasmak
or covering for the face, which years of use have established as
indispensable for old and young, handsome or ugly, has now
given place to a pretty thin pink veil, which is tied under the
most becoming little French hat, and through which their gene-
rally pretty features can be seen, almost as distinctly as ladies' faces
in Western Europe; and their dress is gradually being adapted
to a European style, their boots being now small and high heeled,
and occasionally even fitted with a sort of sham brass spur.
The men seem to have changed also, but not in so marked a
degree, as the changes in their case had preceded those of the
ladies, and may be dated from the period of the destruction of
the Janissaries in the early part of the reign of Mamood. Many
of the Turkish gentlemen of superior station have adopted a
peculiar cleanliness and smartness of appearance, and they are,
with the exception of the fez, scarcely to be distinguished in
appearance from the gentlemen of the West; but the fez,
although somewhat modified in shape and colour, is still worn
by every one whose nationality or service is claimed by the
Sultan.
78
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP, XIV.
In financial recklessness, I believe the Turk far to have
surpassed his former self. They have borrowed and mortgaged
in every conceivable direction. The treasury bonds are held at
fourteen per cent. interest; and, as they have been unable to
meet the payment of the dividends, they have been compelled to
pay compound interest at fourteen per cent. upon it. Still, with
a power of granting concessions of all kinds-railways, harbour
dues, land improvements, drainage, coal mines, and other
minerals, oil duties, stamps, etc., etc.—so great are the natural
resources of this country-so advantageous is its geographical
position-so wonderful its soil, and so excellent its climate—
that they have by no means reached that limit of their powers
of raising money which would cause a national bankruptcy. If,
however, they continue the same course they have pursued since
the war, this result would appear inevitable; but, until that day
arrives, they probably will borrow on, regardless of the future
consequences, and at the most reckless interest, so long as lenders
can be found to supply them with money.
The following interesting and true anecdote was told me in
connexion with the last great Exhibition in England, and
goes far to prove the benefits which our manufacturers have
derived from those Exhibitions.
Before the London Exhibition, the manufacturers and
merchants of Pera and Stamboul held a meeting, at which the
subject of their sending specimens of their goods was discussed.
"Well," they said, "Europe accuses us of lethargy and want of
progress. Let us unite and send to this Exhibition perfect
specimens of our manufactures, in order to show them that we
can do something yet in this our great Eastern capital; that we
still live."
Amongst them was an old and respected Turk, who, after
carefully putting aside his pipe, thus addressed them:-"I am
CHAP. XIV.]
79
CONSTANTINOPLE.
anxious to say a few words to this meeting before it adopts any
final conclusion."
((
"Good, good," was repeated on all sides. "Let us pay atten-
tion to the wise words of our brother, the Hadji.”
Well," said he, "I am an old man, counting more summers
than many of your fathers. I have witnessed all the wonderful
changes which have occurred in this country from a time long
anterior to the reign of Sultan Mamood, and I have never known
any good to result to us from these Frank devices. A presenti-
ment of foreboding evil comes over me, and bitterly, in my
opinion, will you all rue the day on which you gave assistance to
these Giaour inventions."
"O Hadji!" a somewhat more adventurous young man
answered; "we know how you love your religion and your
country, and how justly you hate the Feringhee! In this we
all concur; but, Mashallah, this time we will confound and
astonish him. Am I not a manufacturer of Brussa? And will
I not send such samples of striped cloths and towelling as he
cannot equal! No; he shall not always cast dirt upon our
beards!"
:
"Well, well," said the Hadji; "it used to be considered that
the words of the old were full of wisdom; but times are changed.
God is great! There is no God but God! I hope I may not
see the day on which you will all bitterly repent what I consider
is the utmost want of wisdom-the emanations of pride: beware,
I say, of these cunning Feringhees.”
The council of merchants this time carried out their project
with an energy very different from the usual Turkish apathy
and indifference. Specimens of works in brass, in coffee-cup
holders, in small coverlids, in Brussa cotton-silk mixtures, and in
Brussa bath towelling-an especial manufacture of this city—
were carefully collected, the prices carefully marked on cach;
80
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XIV.
and directions given that on the closing of the Exhibition these
samples should be disposed of.
Thus far all went well. The goods were generally admired,
and all were eventually sold at the prices indicated. The money
was scrupulously paid to the Exhibitors, and the words of the old
IIadji apparently came to naught.
Meeting at the Hummums or bath some time after, the young
merchant addressed the old Hadji in a somewhat contemptuous
tone, saying, "Well, Hadji, what has come of all your prognosti-
cations of evil, resulting from the exposition of our manufactures
in the great London Palace? Have we not made the beards of
the unbelievers grow white with envy ?"
""
"Oh!
answered the old man. "Seed which is sown must
have due time to fructify. Yours has only lately been sown on
Giaour soil. Wait until the year is out, and then we shall sco
the result. I have sad forebodings of evil. I altogether mistrust
these Franks and their cunning ways."
The season passed over. But towards the summer of the
following year there appeared an unusual quantity of Brussa
mixed cotton-silk cloth and towelling in the markets both of Pera
and of Stamboul. The Brussa merchants began to make in-
quiries of cach other as to why they thus flooded the markets to
their own detriment; and, upon comparing notes, they found
that rather less striped picces had been manufactured this year
in Brussa than the last, and, certainly, much less towelling.
But, what was still more remarkable, the prices demanded by
the retail vendors were less than the manufacturers charged.
Mashallah! the secret was out. These cunning Feringhees
had purchased the samples, had imitated them with such perfect
exactness that no difference could be detected. The victory of
machinery over hand labour was complete. The land of coal had
triumphed. Manchester Brussa towelling was selling in Brussa
CHAP. XIV.]
CONSTANTINOPLE.
81
cheaper than Brussa could make it, and the prophecy of the old
Hadji was fulfilled. "Beware of those cunning Feringhees !"
My first visit to Constantinople, was in 1839. Then Turkey
was genuine Turkey-a Frank in the bazaar a rarity-to go into
a mosque a sacrilege to look at a Turkish lady an offence. If
the fine old Turk of that day could but see some of the meta-
morphosed dandies of the present, he would believe that the
ashes of his forefathers had turned in their graves. Since then I
have frequently visited this city, and cach time it was becoming
more Europeanised, and losing its old Oriental character.
Whether Turkey is too sick to recover or not, must be left to
time to determine; but that she is ill-very ill-and that most
of the remedies applied for some years past have not had any
very beneficial effects is beyond doubt. She naturally possesses
great vitality; and is upheld also by the jealousies and fears
of the most powerful nations of Europe; but the Turks are
surely in a poor way, and nothing less than a miracle can make
them a self-reliant and honest nation, or place them on a par
with their European neighbours.
When making preparations for the tour of the Caucasus,
which we expected to be a difficult and somewhat arduous
undertaking, I was presented to Baron Steiger, the chief of the
bureau in Constantinople of the Russian Company in the Black
Sca. Our difficulties consisted principally in our want of know-
ledge of the Russian or Georgian languages; and it was a ques-
tion whether we should take with us an interpreter from
Constantinople, or write to procure one at Poti. Baron Steiger
strongly advised us on no account to go without one, as he said
we actually should be lost in the country-and instanced to us
the fate of an American gentleman whom lately he had been
obliged to rescue at Tiflis, and lead back to Europe.
We, however, were yet uncertain of the necessity of this
G
J
82
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XIV.
measure, being perfectly aware of the consequent expense of it,
and, further, of the loss of freedom and of self-responsibility,
which placing yourself in the hands of a dragoman invariably
engenders. Finally we determined to trust to ourselves—a con-
clusion which we were far from repenting, for there is no doubt
we should otherwise have lost most of the novelty and interest of
the expedition. I, however, must add that colloquially we were
pretty good masters of the French language, otherwise we could
not possibly have succeeded in extricating ourselves from the
difficulties which subsequently surrounded us.
CHAPTER XV.
ODESSA.
ON Tuesday, the 18th of July, we embarked on board the
Russian steam-ship Elbrutz. Previously to our leaving Galata
we were stopped by a custom-house officer, and informed
by his confederate that if I would give him a baksheesh, my
trunks should undergo no examination. This, assisted by a hot
sun, raised my bile. I determined not to comply, and told him
so, when he, seeing, as he expressed it in the Turkish language,
that we were mad Englishmen, thought it best to say no more,
but let us pass by.
Just before we started, I received a visit on board from the
Russian Consul-General Hitsowo, who, hearing that we intended
to visit the Crimea, and perhaps the Caucasus, entirely unsolicited
on our part, brought three or four letters of presentation to his
friends, which he thought might be useful to us, and which event-
ually proved of the greatest service. But this was only one of
the numerous instances, which I shall have occasion to mention,
of the great kindness of every Russian employé. The pains and
personal inconvenience which they are at all times ready to un-
dergo, in order to show courtesy to a stranger visiting their
country, cannot be overrated.
The Elbrutz was a screw merchant-steamer, of about seven
hundred tons, belonging to the great Black Sea Company; she
Q 2
84
[CHAP. XV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
was not very fast, but a comfortable ship. We were provided
each with a large cabin, the more agreeable as the weather was very
hot. We dined while going up the Bosphorus. It was our first
experience of a Russian dinner. We commenced with caviare,
olives, ham, etc., and a nip of brandy; this was followed by soup,
etc., etc. It was fortunate that all this was got over before we
entered the Black Sea, which on this occasion was very angry,
and recalled to us the lines of Lord Byron on this subject,
which, though rather rude, were very appropriate. We
passed, altogether, a most disagreeable night; for although
long use has hardened me to its effects, yet a rough tumbling
sea, in a ship with scarcely more than her ballast in, is most
unpleasant.
Amongst our first-class passengers we had a very fiery French-
man and a hot-headed German: deep and angry were the recri-
minations which passed between them-the Frenchman vowing
that nothing but a march on Berlin would satisfy the vengeance
of France, or remove the bitter hatred which he, in common with
all his countrymen, felt for those Vandals who had dared not only
to desecrate, but to rob fair France of her soil. The German,
excessively vain-glorious of the war, did his best to irritate the
Frenchman, and stated that not only were they ready to meet
the French again, but that, probably before ten years, they
would have overrun Great Britain also, and have made her
disgorge ten times the amount which they extracted from France.
Therefore by this may be seen what agreeable mess companions
we had on this voyage, and how grateful we were when the Black
Sea became somewhat calmer, allowing a corresponding improve-
ment in their digestions.
The Russian Navigation Company is entirely under the auspices
of the Government. It would seem they use it as a means of
fostering the naval skill of the officers of the Russian Navy,
CHAP. XV.]
85
ODESSA.
which certainly is a very good plan in time of peace. The shares
in this company were originally issued at 1507.; they have,
under good management and Government protection, gone up to
6307., and are said steadily to pay the original proprietors about
forty-five per cent. per annum. I am afraid few concerns in
England could be quoted as equally successful.
The upper deck of the Elbrutz was covered with baskets of
the most inviting looking fruits and choice vegetables; and as
each basket was shaded over with a piece of pink gauze, the
appearance was striking and uncommon. I counted four hundred
and sixty baskets, each about two feet across, containing pears,
plums, melons, apricots, and tomatoes.
There was a curious bevy of passengers in the third class-
Jews, Georgians, Armenians, and Crim-Tartars; they all ap-
peared very civil and good-tempered. The captain and officers of
the vessel were most obliging. We were here introduced for the
first time to the habit of continually imbibing hot tea, served up
in tumblers, with sugar and a slice of lemon. I do not know
any beverage more pleasant and inviting in hot weather, or one
which grows more upon a traveller.
On the morning of the 20th July we sighted the light-house,
about five miles south of Odessa, and soon after passed the point
of Picola Fortuna, on which her Majesty's ship Tiger was
stranded in the war, and not being able to be got off, was
captured by a field battery of Russian artillery, drawn up on
the bank, immediately above her. From the position in which
she lay she could not answer the Russian guns, which, there-
fore, leisurely continued to rain shot upon her until she hauled
down her colours.
When we came alongside the wharf an enormously fat
police or sanatory officer took possession of our passports,
registering our names, etc. Military rank appeared to take
86
[CHAP. XV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
precedence of all other claims for attention, and nothing
could exceed the politeness with which the custom-house
officers released us from all embarrassment, and expedited us to
our hotel.
Mounting a strange little carriage, called a drotsky, driven by
a rather ragged and long-bearded old man, we soon reached the
London Hotel, which was well situated, overlooking the harbour
and the sca. The above old man demanded from us exactly four
times his proper fare. He was, however, very well contented on
being paid double. The landlord of this hotel, a Frenchman,
behaved so impertinently, that I was glad to leave his house
for the Hôtel de l'Europe, where we were well treated. I under-
stood afterwards, that this incivility was not unusual on his part,
and that last year, in consequence of his insulting an aide-
de-camp of the Governor-General, he had the option of paying
a heavy fine, or leaving the city. I should consider it safe to
avoid him.
A very magnificent harbour has been formed at Odessa, which
is naturally no more than a roadstead, Large piers of stone
have been built into the sea, especially to screen it from the
south-east. I counted at least three hundred vessels in the
harbour, and many of these of very great size; one or two of no
less than three thousand tons. Experience has shown that a far
greater profit, in proportion, can be realised from the larger
vessels, and these are now regularly used on this line. One of
these very large ships is able to convey to England a cargo of
wheat valued perhaps at twenty or even thirty thousand pounds,
and they can make four or even five trips during the year. A
breakwater, something like that at Plymouth, is also in con-
templation, which will enable five or six hundred vessels to
receive safe berths. The trade in corn is increasing in a won-
derful way at Odessa, in consequence of the lately constructed
CHAP. XV.]
87
ODESSA.
railroads, which bring immense quantities from the interior of
Russia.
As we walked through the streets we saw large buildings, in-
tended originally for houses, but now turned into stores for corn.
Great numbers of men were employed in shifting the grain, to
prevent mildew and damp. I was surprised that no use was
made of the plan adopted in America, at Chicago and elsewhere,
by which the corn is raised by steam power and a species of end-
less wheel, with buckets, directly from the hold of the vessels
into the highest chambers of the store-house, whence it can be
directed into the several rooms or bins at pleasure, by which means
the wheat can be shifted and dried at a trifling expense, com-
pared with that of manual labour. With good management, the
corn might be directed right into the holds of the vessels for ex-
portation. The daily rate of labour for this description of work,
when I was in Odessa, was in my opinion very high indeed; an
able-bodied man received per diem about two and a half or three
roubles, about seven shillings of our money. At the same time
it must be borne in mind that these people are very ignorant, and
somewhat unscrupulous and unruly, and they might, on seeing
these steam-acting warehouses for grain springing up, take the
matter into their own hands and burn them down, a circumstance
not altogether unusual in Russia.
-
The city of Odessa is handsomely situated above the harbour,
which it dominates. It owes much of its importance to the good
administration of the Duc de Richelieu, a French emigré, who
was for a long time its governor, and subsequently to that of
Prince Waronzoff, that enlightened statesman, under whom every-
thing that he undertook prospered. Odessa is wisely not defended
by any fortifications, and to this circumstance it probably owes its
immunity during the last war; for the days of bombarding a
defenceless city are happily past. The natural penalty, which
88
[CHAP. XV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
would in time of war accrue to it, would be that of being closed
as a commercial port by any naval power which had the com-
mand of the sea.
During the last war a battery was erected near the Parade,
and the English guns captured in the Tiger were mounted upon it,
which some unfortunate Russian artillerymen were directed to fire
on the occasion of a salute. The first gun burst, doing much injury
and killing some of the gunners; nevertheless, they were directed
to fire a second gun, which shared the same fate, upon which
they agreed that Russian gunpowder was too strong for English
guns!
The facts afterwards transpired that before the vessel
was deserted, these guns had been rendered useless by being
heated and then cast into the sea, which so injured their temper
that they burst at the first discharge.
Lying on the wharf were a large number of Krupp guns, which
had come by rail from St. Petersburg. They are said to be
destined for the forts which defend Nicolaef and Kertch.
They appeared to be of about eight inches in diameter.
Soon after breakfast, I presented a letter which had been given
to me at Constantinople by Consul-General Hitsowo, to his
Excellency General Conseiller d'Etat Jonace Ottmanstein. No-
thing could exceed the kindness of his reception, and although
he was occupied in writing an important despatch, he paid us
immediate attention, and within two hours he returned my visit,
and gave me a letter of introduction to Admiral d'Arkas, com-
manding the fleot in the Black Soa, who was residing at Nicolacf,
to which place we had stated we were anxious to go on the fol-
lowing day.
G
The few purchases which we made here gave us proof of the
kindness of the people, and it was agreeable to find how widely
they differed from the cheats at Pera and Stamboul. Like
honest people they demanded reasonable prices, without augment-
CHAP. XV.]
89
ODESSA.
………………….
ing them because we were strangers, and gave us every assistance,
which was often very requisite, in consequence of our total
ignorance of the Russian language. Our first day in Russia gave
us most favourable impressions of all classes of her people.
(pattan
Win
CHAPTER XVI.
NICOLAEF.
HAVING heard in England so much of what was being done at
Nicolaef, we determined, although at considerable inconvenience,
to visit it, and see as much as the authorities would allow us.
Shortly after midnight therefore we left Odessa for Nicolaef
in a small Russian steamer called the Argonaut.
By three in the morning of the 21st, we were opposite the
"Kinborn Spit," passing which we entered the river Bug. This
estuary is wide and very shallow, and without great attention to
the numerous buoys which have been carefully laid down, a ship
that drew more than fourteen feet of water would soon run
aground. The channel itself from Kinborn to Nicolaef is about
nineteen feet deep, and is very narrow; before the war it had
been deepened to twenty-four feet; it is of soft mud, and a vessel
drawing twenty, or even twenty-two feet, may easily be forced
through it.
At a distance of seven or eight miles from the landing-place of
Nicolacf we approached three very strong forts, one built on an
island in the centre of the river, and one on either bank; the
fire of each crossing that of the other. A very narrow channel,
well under the fire of their guns, was left open for vessels to pass
up and down the river. Very heavy Krupp guns have been
recently mounted on these forts, and these were said to have
CHAP. XVI.]
91
NICOLAEF.
been tested the previous day with most satisfactory results.
Strong as these forts seemed to be, I believe that they are by
no means impregnable, but I do not think myself justified in
giving here a detailed opinion upon this subject. Above these
forts, the river for about six or seven miles winds con-
siderably, the town of Nicolaef being always within view on
the heights.
The steamer now stopped near to a very long bridge over the
river, laid upon floating punts. Here at anchor lay his Imperial
Majesty's yacht named The Tiger, the machinery for which was
taken from Her Majesty's ship Tiger, that ran ashore below
Odessa during the war.
We called upon Admiral d'Arkas, who, however, could not
receive us till the afternoon, as he was engaged with the Minister
of Marine, who had lately come from St. Petersburg to inspect
the arsenal, and to make arrangements for building some heavy
iron steam rams. In the interim we obtained a very satisfactory
view and sketch of the docks, and were much interested with the
operations of a diver in the channel of the river, which flowed
from the docks into the Bug, from which we could make a
tolerably accurate guess as to the depth of the water. We then
drove into the town.
The great traveller, Dr. Clarke, visited Nicolaef about the year
1809, and he then spoke of it as being about the third city in the
empire. If such was the case, how greatly must many of the
cities of Russia have progressed since that time; for although
Nicolaef may possess qualities which may one day make it a
great city, yet at present it is not much more than a large strag-
gling town.
At two in the afternoon we again called upon Admiral
d'Arkas, a finc, open-hearted sailor, evidently possessing many
of the characteristics of a British seaman. IIe gave us an order
92
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVI.
to see both the arsenal and the docks, placing an intelligent officer
of the navy at our disposal.
The arsenal and dockyards are situated on the banks of the
Ingul, within a quarter of a mile from the junction of that river
with the Bug. The Ingul is here about half a mile broad, and
apparently deep. We saw three large sheds for ship-building,
and a long range of workshops. Two of Nasmyth's steam
hammers were erected, and we were told there was a machine on
a small scale for bending iron plates. We also saw a few cutting
and planing machines, but we were much astonished, after all
that we had heard in London, to see so very little. Many private
yards in England and Scotland possess workshops and machinery
of tenfold the value and extent of anything we saw at Nicolaef,
and there is yet a great deal to be done before these dockyards
can be accounted of much consideration. Comparatively few men
were employed, but this, we were told, was owing to the great
pressure at that time for labour in the neighbouring country
to get in the harvest, which was literally rotting in the fields
for want of hands to gather it, although three or four roubles a
day were being given for such work.
A yacht for the Emperor, built of mahogany, was on the
stocks, but it could not be proceeded with in consequence of the
want of that wood. There was a very large rope-walk, and also
a rocket manufactory, rockets being a very favourite weapon with
the Russians in Asia. The slips for building iron-clads were in
course of construction, and I was told that they hoped to con-
struct twelve vessels after the model of our Abyssinia. They
desire much to do this with Russian iron, forged with Russian
coal, and worked by Russian machinery, but it must be many
years indeed ere they can carry into execution so praiseworthy a
conception.
If the Russians purchase their iron-clads in England, and arc
•
CHAP. XVI.]
93
NICOLAEF.
permitted to sail them through the Bosphorus, then they may
quickly have an iron-clad fleet in the Black Sea, but one cannot
conceive that the Sultan will give permission for so dangerous a
fleet to pass through the Dardanelles and Bosphorus. If they
are to transport each piece in merchant vessels to Nicolaef,
or by railway from St. Petersburg, and then to put these
heavy vessels of war together in the docks on the Ingul, they
would not only cost more money than probably Russia has
at command, but would require an indefinite time for their
completion.
The naval arsenal is completely hidden from the approach by
sea up the river Bug. It is not defended by any fortifications or
guns, but it could not be approached by an enemy on the river
until the forts previously alluded to were captured. In the
model-room we saw the model of the Twelve Apostles, a one-
hundred-and-twenty-gun ship sunk in Sebastopol in 1854.
In the evening we were most hospitably received by the
Consul-General, Mr. Stephens, although he was only recovering
from a very dangerous illness. We were greatly interested by
his wide and extended knowledge of Russia.
On returning to the Argonaut we found the harbour lit up with
blue lights, in compliment to the Minister of War, who was
returning to Odessa in the Imperial yacht Tiger.
On the 22nd of July we returned in the Argonaut to Odessa.
I here think it right to record the extreme kindness of the Russian
officers on board. Although we were perfect strangers to the
captain, yet he volunteered to resign to us the entire use of his
own cabin during the two days that we were in that ship.
Odessa now contains about one hundred and eighty thousand
inhabitants, of whom eighty thousand are said to be Jews.
These latter are very wealthy, and much disliked by the
Christians. During last Easter every Jewish house in the city
94
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVI.
but two was ransacked, and the furniture thrown into the streets:
such was the violent ill-will of the Christians. A large amount
of the landed property in the neighbourhood of Odessa is mort-
gaged to the Jews, who, until lately, were not permitted to possess
land in their own right. It is said that, as a rule, the aristocracy
in Russia are terribly involved in debt. At the death of a father
of a family one-seventh of his property is allotted to his widow,
one-fourteenth to each girl, and the remainder is equally divided
among all his sons.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CRIMEA.
ON Monday, the 24th of July, at 1 P.M., we left Odessa in
the Russian steamer for the Crimea. We steamed out of the
harbour at a rapid rate, passing among the shipping of all nations,
the largest of which was an English merchant steamer of three
thousand five hundred tons burden. She was really a splendid
vessel. She had come from England laden with iron rails, and
was about to return freighted with corn. The original value of
this vessel was said to be about sixty thousand pounds, and her
return cargo in corn was valued at about thirty thousand pounds.
Her profit on this voyage, out and home, was reckoned about
ten thousand pounds. Thus, if she could make three voyages
to the Black Sea in one year, in addition to a voyage or two
nearer home, a very fine return would accrue to her owners.
We had a calm passage across this part of the Black Sea. We
were exceedingly comfortable on board; the Russians appeared
to make it a study to be amiable to strangers, and especially to
Englishmen. There is, however, in these vessels one regulation
which is vexatious, but which is insisted upon with much strict-
ness. The passengers in the saloon are at all times compelled
to sit upright, and are not allowed to lie down upon the couches.
If they do so, they are at once reminded by the stewards that
96
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVII.
they are infringing the regulations. This is particularly vexa-
tious when a person is slightly indisposed by sea-sickness.
Early on Tuesday morning we reached Eupatoria. Here we
landed a few of our passengers, who intended to spend some time
in sea-bathing at this part of the Crimea; for although Eupatoria
is very inferior in point of beauty of scenery to Yalta, or even to
Theodosia, yet it is more healthy and open, possesses a fine strand,
and is infinitely cheaper, and nearer to Odessa. It is much cooler
than Sebastopol. There is nothing remarkable in Eupatoria; but
the town seemed to be more flourishing than in 1854, when a few
days before the battle of the Alma we arrived before it, with the
allied fleets and armies.
About 11
11 A.M. we entered the harbour of Sebastopol.
Scarcely any change existed since the day we left it in 1855.
The town is still one vast ruin, which it would take years of toil
and enormous sums of money to replace in its former grandeur.
Sebastopol, before the occupation in 1855, is said to have con-
tained eighty thousand inhabitants, and now it can scarcely count
eight thousand. Fort Constantine stands proudly on the northern
side; but not one stone remains to indicate the position of
the southern forts, which were many times more extensive
than it.
We visited the Museum, in a new house built by the govern-
ment for General Totleben, and presented by him to the city for
the purpose of a museum; in it are collected some of the most
interesting memorials of the siege.
As our plan was to continue our voyage to Yalta, and return
from thence by the Pass of Thoros and the valley of Baidar, we
had but a short hour now in Sebastopol; and leaving again about
one in the afternoon, we passed the lighthouse at Kamiesh,
the monastery of St. George, and the entrance to the harbour
of Balaclava,
1
Vis
2422
MEN
P. 96.
Bigg
If 112113
John't
B
UN
OF
ル
​PREHNOMINU
AFRUM
PL2333 298BREEDING, LETA
...
GIA™
11
ADUIETE
DIHUPPAD, MARINIRA, KUI MANATHALUMIINITE...
GROOT} **
ME
IP
ABLARITY HILTILJKUM
ADHIBAUERISTEESIAN
TIME l
00012 alim Jiitt
MODER
*
DOT
ATAPAR
OKE T
li
LUNART
ULL
HITH
四方
​ARTURKEY
JULLERIES [E
ANURANIAN
ATRY A
CRET | 90 10022IERAZ
TRIOTS DIG
ANNALLE SALIE
MRCA
THE CITY OF SEBASTOPOL AS IT NOW IS.
PREMATURE SVALAS BERBUATA GU AL
100
1:010-:1
FRODIT
HOMEPISTEELLE
UNIMTIMED ALLLIA
an ntuituskriftal
KUPATANAAMATUTEN 20
WOIN TH
CHAP. XVII.]
97
THE CRIMEA.
We passed the palace of Prince Woronzoff at Alupka. Its
situation is most lovely, particularly from the sea.
The gardens
descending to the water's edge, terraces rising above terraces,
clad with vines interspersed with cypresses, gave a most beautiful
effect, the whole being surmounted with magnificent crags, the
summits of which are probably two thousand five hundred feet high.
A great many handsome houses are now being built near Prince
Woronzoff's, and doubtless before many years are passed every
available point will receive its villa. His Imperial Majesty
appears very fond of the Crimea, and his example will naturally
set the fashion for the members of the aristocracy of Russia to
build country villas there.
While running along the coast, we had a fine view of the
Tchadirdagh, or tent-mountain, so called from its shape; it is by
far the highest land in the peninsula, and has a very striking
appearance.
About 5 P.M. we anchored in Yalta roadstead. There were
very few ships there, and those of the meanest description. We
put up at the Hôtel de Crimea, opposite the landing-place, a very
inferior hotel, where, with the exception of a little German, no
language was spoken but Russian.
We obtained one room between us, with a thin screen dividing
it. Our beds were laid on wooden tressels, which, however, we
were glad to relinquish for the narrow divan sofas. A coverlid
and one sheet each was all that was supplied to us, two sheets
to each bed being never given in Southern Russia; and in the
wilder parts no bed linen whatever can be procured, the traveller
always bringing his own. No towels were given, and the only
washing apparatus provided was one small basin, the size of a
slop-bowl, and this in a climate where the thermometer stands
at ninety degrees in the shade. For this rude accommodation,
the modest sum was demanded of five roubles, or fourteen shillings
II
98
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVII
per day, which, upon a representation of its being too high, was
reduced to twelve shillings. The meals were served à la carte,
and the living was as poor and as dear as the lodging.
The next morning gave us a most lovely view of the mountains
in rear of the town, and a fine sea breeze tempered the heat of
the sun during the whole day.
We paid our respects to Aide-de-Camp General Kotzebue, the
Governor of New Russia, who received us most kindly, and took
great pains to facilitate our journey through the Crimea. He is
the smallest officer I ever saw, wiry, intelligent, and very smart.
He is just seventy years of age, but looks scarcely sixty. He
appeared to live in a moderate retiring way. He was rather vain
of his own powers of endurance, pitying me for being unable to
equal them, on which point I was too polite to contradict him;
but in a five-mile gallop across country, or in the hardship of an
Eastern journey, I felt I could any day show him his match.
I had to procure a carriage to take us to Sebastopol, which a
Tartar, after some trouble, agreed to do for thirty roubles, or four
pounds sterling. Of course, this was a gross overcharge, the posting
being little more than four roubles or twelve shillings; but we had
nothing to do but to submit. I think it is a pity that some police
arrangements in regard to the hire of these carriages are not
made, for in the long run these absurd charges are detrimental to
all the inhabitants; strangers soon find out the localities in
which they are imposed upon, and fewer travellers resort to them.
Had we been as well acquainted, as we afterwards were, with
the Telega or Pericordinia system of travelling, we should without
scruple have taken one of those Russian post carts at once.
In the afternoon we rode to Lavadia, the palace of the Empress,
a pretty country house of no great pretensions; and to Orianda,
the palace of the Emperor, a much larger place, both beautifully
situated in lovely positions on the side of the mountain, with
CHAP. XVII.]
99
THE CRIMEA.
magnificent views of the coast and Black Sea. The chapel at
Lavadia is one of the most chaste and beautiful things I saw
during the whole time I was in Russia. After viewing it we
rode up the hill to a very pretty châlet, where the Empress
has a farm. It is said that Her Imperial Majesty here throws
aside all her royalty, and zealously performs the office of dairy-
maid, thoroughly enjoying her country pleasures and recreations
after the enforced slavery of her high position.
On the road up the hill we met several of the Russian country
carts, made entirely of wood, without the smallest piece of iron
about them. They appeared strong, and well fitted to encounter
the rough mountain roads which they had to travel. Only
bullocks are used in these carts, and they seem to be of the
most patient description, and very obedient to their drivers.
They went on their way about two miles per hour, cheered by
the music of the monotonous creaking of their wheels.
After visiting the cows, which were tended after the English
style, and examining the rest of the Imperial farm, we descended
the hill by a new road which had just been made by order of the
Empress, reaching home after a ride of about four hours.
Not having made a bargain for the hire of the horses, but
having left this to the police officer who was sent with us, four-
teen roubles, or about two sovereigns, were demanded for the
three wretched ponies-another example of the dishonesty of
these people, and of the necessity of settling all prices beforehand,
however contrary this may be to the customs and feelings of an
Englishman. We paid ten roubles for the use of the ponies,
and positively refused to give any more, at which the men were far
from evincing any surprise, but, on the contrary, considered they
had made a very good thing out of us.
As another instance of the exactions imposed upon strangers in
the Crimca, I may mention that on the following night we slept.
H 2
....
....
100
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVII.
at Baidar, and endured a rather unusual quantity of dirt and
vermin, being accommodated in a poor sort of farm-house. They
had nothing to give us but a pot of milk and six eggs, and for
this they were not contented with less than seventeen shillings.
Many reasons no doubt conduce towards these excessive charges.
Few Russians travel except with the intention of spending large
sums of money. In fact, it is only the wealthy who travel at all
for pleasure, and the custom of lavishly dispensing money is much
fostered by the customs of the Court. For instance, in the im-
mense empire over which he reigns, the Emperor is unable to
visit many districts more than once in his life; but it is politic
and requisite that he should leave a good opinion wherever he
goes, and in no way can this be more successfully secured than by
leaving a large sum of money. His presence in Yalta is a perfect
fortune to the householders. He now generally visits Lavadia
and Orianda every year in the autumn, bringing with him about
two hundred persons attached to his court, and remaining about
a month or so. A large number of place-seekers flock to his re-
ceptions, and pit their chances of success against their heavy
expenses. At that time, the not unfrequent charge for a room
in Yalta is twenty roubles, or about £2 15s. per night; and for
the use of a carriage, a small phaeton to attend a reception, I
was informed that from fifty to sixty roubles, or about £6 10s.,
was generally demanded.
This imposes a serious expenditure upon the casual traveller,
who, although he may have been led to expect high prices, is
scarcely prepared for such as these, and yet what can he do but
submit? He cannot sleep in the street, and having come so
far, he argues that it would be a folly to return, without seeing
what he has come to see, and thus he becomes another victim.
CHAPTER XVIII.
SEBASTOPOL.
C
At six a.m. we started en veturino for Sebastopol, having en-
gaged a carriage for two days, on the understanding that we
might loiter on the road, to sketch for as many hours in the day
as we might wish. The distance is eighty-three versts, or about
sixty miles. The carriage was a roomy victoria, said by the
owner to have been built in London, but probably built in
Vienna.
Making our first halt at the village of Alupka, we visited the
palace of Prince Woronzoff. It is very spacious and handsome,
built of green limestone, after a design of the English architect,
Blower. The grounds are perfectly lovely—words can scarcely do
justice to them: deliciously cool marble fountains, which never
cease to play; trellised vine-clad arcades, grottoes, and shaded
walks succeed each other in endless variety. Magnificent rocks and
mountains overhang the gardens, and add grandeur to the whole.
Nor are these grounds entirely for recreation: large and profit-
able vineyards have been planted on the estate, the wine and
brandy from which realise a considerable sum. In my opinion,
however, there is no really good wine made either in the Crimea,
or on the Don, or in the Caucasus. It is said that on an estate
near Massandra, above Yalta, Prince Woronzoff used to make
very excellent Cliquot champagne; but that, having discharged
102
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVIII.
the superintendent, the secret of its manufacture was lost. The
cognac brandy, however, which is also made here, is by no means
a bad imitation of the genuine French article.
There certainly must be some profound secret, or it must
require unusual intelligence, to make wine; for it would seem
that there is no real success except in Spain, France, and Ger-
many.
The villages on this road are almost entirely inhabited by
Tartars. The houses are flat-roofed, and the country bears a
strong resemblance to many parts of the Himalayas. Near
Alupka, at the top of a very steep hill, we saw a signboard, on
which was painted a carriage-skid, practically reminding the
traveller of the danger of descending the hill without using this
article. The idea was clever and useful.
The formation of the peninsula of the Crimea is remarkable.
About three-fourths of the whole consists of an undulating steppe,
similar to the rest of Southern Russia, a very narrow fringe at
the edge of the rivers being devoted to garden purposes, where
rich vineyards, fruit-trees, and all sorts of vegetables profusely
flourish; otherwise it is a corn-growing country, and is entirely
devoid of trees. The remaining fourth part is of an entirely
different character, far more resembling parts of Switzerland than
Russia; hero are rugged mountains of great height, deep valleys,
forest trees, and most picturesque scenery. This latter portion is
of a triangular form, in which Yalta, Alupka, and Batcheserai
are the principal towns. It is on the southern slopes of these
mountains, and facing the sea, that the vineyards have been
planted; they are perfectly sheltered from the northern winds,
and are yearly increasing in importance. The contrast of these
two regions is very striking to the traveller, as he passes from
mountains and fertile valleys to boundless plains entirely devoid
of trees.
CHAP. XVIII.]
103
SEBASTOPOL.
I should prefer remaining at Alupka rather than at Yalta, if
residing for any time in this country.
To the west of Alupka we passed above the valley of Semeis,
amidst fine rocky scenery and pine-clad mountains; while away
to the south is the far-stretching Black Sea, now belying its
name by looking intensely blue and serene.
At Alupka we had our first opportunity of inspecting a regular
Russian posting-carriage. The principal objects aimed at in its
construction are strength and simplicity-the first to bear the
rough roads of the country, the second to enable it to be repaired
in the most out-of-the-way districts. The body resembled that
of a strong-built berlin, slung upon two long poles of elastic wood,
and allowed free play on the axles. The fore and hind wheels
were at a considerable distance apart, connected by a strong
wooden perch; and the heavier the carriage was weighted in the
centre, the easier would be its motion to the travellers. For
simplicity of construction and durability it can scarcely be sur-
passed.
Towards sunset we arrived at the Pass of Thoros, and after a
long ascent passed over into the valley of Baidar. Here we rested
in the wayside house of an old Frenchman, whose poor accom-
modation and heavy charges have been already mentioned.
I observed that at Baidar, as in all villages in the Crimea, the
swallows are freely allowed to build their nests under the eaves
of the roofs. They are much cherished, as they are said to
diminish, to an astonishing extent, the plague of flies, which
otherwise would be most annoying to the inhabitants.
Rising at early dawn, we hurried up our driver, and were soon
on the road. Passing through pleasant scenery and thick brush-
wood copses, where we came across some small roe deer, we
arrived about eight a.m. at the post station above the valley
of Balaclava. This house, as appeared from a notice which
1
104
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XVIII.
still remained painted on it, had been built and occupied as the
head-quarters of the Sardinian army.
We had now reached the field of Balaclava, interesting and
yet so painful in its recollections. What mingled feelings of pride.
and pain arose as I sat upon the hill-side, the site of the Russian
battery, and once again looked upon that field, having immediately
beneath me the very point to which our noble light cavalry charged
into the very jaws of death! On my left were the low mounds,
which, on the morning of that eventful day, I saw taken by the
Russian troops from the Turks who were placed there. And in
front of me the Fiducane hills, which had been occupied by
Russian infantry two days prior to the battle; and in the fore-
ground was the position occupied by the Russian field artillery,
the guns of which, according to the interpretation of the order,
were directed to be captured.
All this country was now in peace and abounding in corn
just reaped; but, in my mind's eye, it was still covered with the
groaning, the dying, and the dead, as I had seen it on that
memorable occasion seventeen years before. There still remained
the profile of the small redoubt, in the ditch of which I saw
poor Nolan's body flung, smashed in a terrible way, and close
to which, Colonel Macdonald's feather was cut from his hat by a
cannon shot, while I was conversing with him.
Again the Russian rifle pits, from which, while riding with Sir
George Cathcart towards the close of the action, a heavy fire was
suddenly opened upon us, which, however, by great good fortune,
we both escaped. Between the redoubts I also saw the very spot
from which poor Morris, that fine swordsman, was carried to the
rear, covered with wounds; and where I heard the remark from
the general of my division, that the charge was magnificent, but
the loss terrible.
Farther, again, to the left was the position of the "thin red
CHAP. XVIII.]
105
SEBASTOPOL.
line," so eloquently described by Mr. Russell, in which Sir Colin
Campbell drew up his few Highlanders to meet and, as it proved,
to repulse a charge of Russian cavalry. There, too, was the field
of the charge of the heavy cavalry, on which I saw the noble
Scarlett so proudly meet and drive back, with his handful of
sabres, a host of Russian cavalry which advanced over the hill
steadily up to his position. Immediately above was the spot from
which was despatched the order for the capture of the guns,
which subsequently created so painful a controversy.
When I looked over this now peaceful field, it appeared like a
dream; but the recollections of that day of strife, the wounds,
and groans, and death, never can be banished from my
remembrance.
CHAPTER XIX.
BALACLAVA.
PROCEEDING on from the field of Balaclava, and through the
Turkish redoubts, we drove into the town of Balaclava. How
deserted it looked; how different from the time when a constant
busy throng crowded its small streets and wharfs; now a few
listless Greeks and Russians loitered in the streets. Where
the gallant Agamemnon rode in the midst of this tiny harbour,
surrounded by countless steamers and ships of all sorts and sizes,
now nothing but two rotting hulls encumbered the basin.
I visited the commandant's house, where I had so often been
kindly received, and saw the old window-sill, where we had so
often chatted of things of the siege, and about which a curious
circumstance occurred. As soon as peace was finally concluded,
a Russian officer walked into the commandant's office, and
stating that the house was his own, asked if he was at liberty
now to remove any personal property which he had left in it. It
was represented to him that long since everything like furniture
had disappeared; but that if he saw anything worth removing
he was at liberty to take it. "Permit me," he replied, "to make
an examination." And forthwith taking from his pocket a chisel
and a hammer, he proceeded to remove the window-sill. His
proceedings were watched with much interest. The wooden
board was soon removed, when putting his hand in and drawing
CHAP. XIX.]
107
BALACLAVA.
out a heavy bag, he said, "Now I am completely satisfied; this
bag has given me countless nights of anxiety. It contains all the
gold, notes, and plate which I possessed. I placed it here for
safe custody the night on which we received the fatal news of
Alma. I could scarcely have believed that it would escape de-
tection. With your permission I will now remove it." This was,
of course, accorded. And placing the bag in his little drotsky,
he drove out of the town.
Although the weather was fearfully hot we climbed to the top
of the crag on which the old Genoese castle was built; we
were accompanied by a soldier who said he had served, at the
time of the war, in the Greek regiment, and had formed one of
the garrison of defence when the town of Balaclava was taken.
This man was doubly interested when I showed him the spot,
near the end of the creek, where Sir Richard Airey and myself
were nearly killed by a shell fired from the fort; and it was
curious to receive his account of the obligation they felt they
were under, if possible, to kill a few of us before they surrendered
the fort, which they knew to be quite untenable.
His account of the capture of this little town was interesting.
He said that the garrison, which only consisted of forty men,
found themselves, in consequence of our flank march, entirely cut
off from Sebastopol, and also saw a very large steamer outside
Balaclava harbour. They, however, determined not to surrender
without a shot. The steamer commenced by firing at them, but
apparently was too close to elevate her guns sufficiently. The
defenders turned the only two small field-pieces they possessed
towards the land, and fired them as soon as they saw some officers
of our staff turn the corner of the rocks. No sooner had they
fired a couple of rounds than a battery of our horse artillery was
unlimbered and brought into action, the fire from which he
described as being so perfect as to decide them at once to give in.
108
[CHAP. XIX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
I perfectly remember the field-guns being brought into action at
the place he described, and saw that the whole account which he
gave must have been entirely correct.
I inquired from this old soldier what rewards he had received
at the end of the war. He then told me that being taken prisoner
as above described, he was taken to Plymouth, in England, where
for a year he was treated with the greatest kindness and generosity,
and rationed sumptuously. That when the war was ended, he
was sent back to Russia, not to the south, but, unfortunately, to
St. Petersburg, from whence, with the greatest difficulty, he
begged his way back to the Crimea. That he was then disbanded
and received nothing, Russia having determined to have no Greek
regiments in her pay. He farther added that he then recom-
menced to farm his little vineyard, which, he said, before the war
had been very profitable, but, he added, "what has now bewitched
it, my lord, I cannot tell, for ever since the war-now nearly
seventeen years-it has scarcely produced any grapes whatever.'
From Balaclava we ascended the hill on the road to Sebastopol,
passing through Kadi-koi. How different now from the scenes
so truthfully depicted in Simpson's sketches! We halted on the
heights to take one look at Lord Raglan's house, which appeared
to have undergone no perceptible change.
Diverging from our direct road we visited the French cemetery.
I pause to say one word on this subject. The Russians have
built a most costly, highly-decorated, and substantial monument
to their dead,—a chapel in the form of a stunted hollow pyramid,
built rather to defy the waste of ages than for external beauty.
The interior, however, is gorgeous; and on slabs of polished black
marble are the names of those illustrious men, who, commanding
her troops, so worthily died in defence of their country. The
French have walled in a large piece of ground, and erected
small mausoleums, each dedicated to a regiment of that army
CHAP. XIX.]
109
BALACLAVA.
which carried on the siege so obstinately and with such terrible
·losses, on which are recorded the names of the leaders of her
troops who fell in victory.
Where is the British record of our hard-won field, of all our
sufferings? Nothing but a few mounds in detached places. No
general memorial that shall stand for ages, and be visited by
posterity. The subject, however, I was informed was under the
consideration of the Foreign and the War Offices; and as it has
now already been thus for seventeen years under consideration,
it may be hoped that ere very long it will receive some satisfactory
solution. Moreover, the Greek custodian who pretended to look
after the English graves was dismissed for irregularity by the
Consul at Kertch some time since, and now no one is either paid
or authorised to attend to these graves.
On the evening of Friday, the 28th July, we found ourselves
at Wetzel's Hotel, in Sebastopol. It was fortunate that we had
telegraphed for rooms, otherwise we should have been reduced to
the necessity of sleeping in our carriage, no uncommon thing at
this the bathing season. We were very well treated at this hotel,
where we remained for four days; and the charges were mode-
rate, a circumstance too exceptional to be left unrecorded.
The weather, however, was exceedingly hot, rendering any
excrtion painful, and exposure somewhat dangerous. The heat
was greater than usually to be met with in the hottest parts of
India, with none of the palliatives to be found there. Neverthe-
less, on Saturday we spent nearly eight hours on horseback,
carefully following up many well-known former footsteps.
About 9 A.M., leaving Sebastopol by the Karabelnaia suburb,
we first proceeded up the Valley of Death, then turned towards
the right attack and followed it to the Redan, and from thence
to the Malakoff tower. Having well examined these interesting.
spots, we rode to the windmill, or old powder magazine, and
110
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XIX.
thence to the field of the battle of Inkerman. The old windmill
appeared unaltered from the time my tent stood within a few
hundred yards of it, in the winter of 1854. While we made
use of it as a powder magazine it caught fire, the top was
burnt off, and little was known of the cool bravery of those who
removed the powder from the burning mill.
MALAKOFF.
por
ر
The farm buildings also were there, where, on the night of
Inkerman, I had seen so many hundred poor fellows, English,
French, Russians, undergoing the most agonising operations,
writhing in their pain. And I recognised the spot near the
large well, with now no sign or record, but under which I full
well know lie hundreds of French corpses, the victims of cholera,
and who were hurriedly interred, even without the customary
CHAP. XIX.]
111
BALACLAVA.
office of straightening their bodies from the attitudes of contor-
tion in which they died; but now all this ground looked so
tranquil, with nothing to disturb it except the presence of a few
young lambs nibbling the somewhat ranker sward.
I looked, too, at the valley where my little tent had been
pitched, and from whence I was roused that foggy November
morning, the day of Inkerman, and where we had crouched
during the fearful storm, when the steamer "Prince" went down
in the Bay of Balaclava. There, too, my kind commander, a
rigid disciplinarian, used to call me at all hours of the night to
visit front, flank, and rear, frequently when the stars were my
only guide. What feelings of thankfulness were now kindled in
my breast when I recalled the numberless instances, on these very
fields, in which I escaped so many dangers.
We now approached the field of Inkerman, of which such
interesting accounts have been written, that I, perhaps, have no
right to intrude another upon my reader; but as the few words I
propose to give relate solely to my personal experiences on that
day, they will not, I trust, be considered entirely inappropriate.
CHAPTER XX.
THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.
Ar the battle of Inkerman my appointment was that of
Quarter-Master General to the first division of the army, com-
manded by the Duke of Cambridge. I was colonel in the army.
From the time of taking up our position on the heights before
Sebastopol, it was my habit to visit carefully each outpost of my
division every night, and also an hour or so before sunrise. At
this time thick brushwood encumbered on all sides the ground on
which we were encamped, and frequently I had no other guide
than the stars, but guided faithfully by them, I never failed to
strike upon the outposts.
Early in the morning of the 5th November, I had as usual
carried out this duty, and paid particular attention to that portion
of our position towards the Tchernaya valley, but had observed
nothing unusual in that direction. About 7 A.M., being in a pro-
found sleep after that fatiguing duty, I was awakened by an
unusually heavy fire of musketry on our right front, or on that
portion of our front held by the 2nd Division. The morning
was misty, and little could be seen in any direction. His Royal
Highness directed me again to visit immediately the outposts of
his division, especially in the direction of the Canrobert redoubt,
the right rear, in respect to which somewhat weak and extended
position he appeared most reasonably to have some anxiety.
CHAP. XX.]
113
THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.
Having mounted one of my ponies I proceeded in that direction,
and finding all quiet there, and having warned the officers in
command to be extremely on the alert, I returned again to the
head-quarters of my division. During this interval the fire in
the right front was increasing in intensity. On returning, and
when near the windmill used as a powder magazine, I met
Colonel Strangways, Royal Horse Artillery, the senior officer of
artillery with the army.
The engagement with the advanced posts of the 2nd Divi-
sion of the army had now assumed a more serious aspect, and
appearances indicated an attack in force. I suggested to Colonel
Strangways, the advisability of sending towards the point of
attack some pieces of heavier calibre than our nine, or even
twelve-pounders, and asked him if he could not send up some
eighteen-pounders, which, after some consideration, he said he
thought he could do. He immediately rode off in the direction
of the artillery reserves, and I proceeded on towards my tent.
As the fate of the action is generally allowed to have depended
very materially on these eighteen-pounder guns, together with the
admirable manner in which they were worked under the com-
mand of Colonel Dickson, I felt no small pleasure in the share
I had in their being sent into action. It is stated in some his-
tories of the war that they were sent up by another officer of the
Royal Artillery. This I cannot deny, but I relate the exact
circumstances concerning them, as they occurred between the
late Colonel Strangways (who was killed four or five hours later)
and myself.
CON
On returning to my tent I found His Royal Highness about to
mount, and take his place with his division, which was then
under arms and proceeding to the front. Mounting one of my
chargers, a thorough-bred Irish horse, but the one of my three
which I selected for the first chance of being killed, and leaving
:
I
114
[CHAP. XX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
my favourite American mare by the tents, I made the observa-
tion to my assistant in my dutics, Captain Butler, that I felt
sure we should have hot work this day. Poor Butler! I never
saw him again alive. He was brother to the Silistrian hero, and
was a brave and excellent officer.
Butler then galloped to the front, while I joined the Staff, pro-
ceeding with His Royal Highness, and accompanying the advance
of the troops. We were then stationed near the Sandbag battery,
our troops firing heavily upon the enemy, then apparently in
retreat. Soon after this, among the bushes towards our left
front, I saw my poor friend Butler lying upon the ground a
corpse.
His Royal Highness and the Staff then took up a position
more generally commanding the division; and here Field-Mar-
shal Lord Raglan, with his Staff, amongst whom I saw Colonel
Strangways, joined His Royal Highness. The fire of shot and
shell soon became very severe, and much of it, whether by
chance or otherwise I could not say, was directed upon the group
of the Field Marshal. Poor Strangways, amongst many others,
was killed, a cannon-shot smashing his thigh; and almost every
officer of our Staff was hit, though none of them very seriously.
Our fire had now been very quick, and it was requisite to
obtain fresh ammunition. I brought a reserve in boxes to the
troops near the Sandbag battery, the Turks who had charge of
the ponies behaving in a noble way. At this time the fire be-
came tremendous; shot and shell devastating our ranks and
doing much injury in the rear, among some light cavalry who
were posted there. While delivering the ammunition I again
came across the dead body of my friend Butler, but by this time
he had been stripped of the best part of his clothes: his boots
and socks were gone, proving to me that since I had left this
spot we had lost and regained this post.
•
-
CHAP. XX.]
115.
THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.
I had again joined His Royal Highness, and advanced with
him and his personal Staff farther to the front; his object ap-
parently being to effect a junction between his division and the
troops of the division on his left. Russian and English dead
literally encumbered the ground. The fire was very hot, and
Colonel Clifton, A.D.C., received a piece of shell in his face.
Finding, however, his eye uninjured, he did not give a second
thought to it; and about this time, I think, His Royal Highness
had a narrow escape, a ball piercing his coat-sleeve.
It was here that I came across a wing of the 20th Regiment,
with my poor friend Dowling with them. About two years pre-
viously I had commanded a battalion of that regiment, and knew
most of the men and officers. Dowling said to me, "Why,
Colonel, all our mounted officers are either killed or wounded;
where shall we go?" Nothing gave me more pleasure than
the honour which by chance was thus conferred upon me of
leading my old regiment in the field. Directing them to form a
good line, I marched them directly upon a Russian battalion, and
halted them when about one hundred yards distant, and directed
them to open fire. Looking from my horse, over the wing of
the 20th, I watched the firing-its effect appeared irresistible.
I felt an additional satisfaction in thus testing the power of our
rifles. Against the advice and opinion of some of the highest and
most celebrated of our officers, the General Commanding-in-
Chief, Lord Hardinge, had been so convinced of the efficacy of
the rifle, in contradistinction to the smooth bore, that he had,
even after war was declared and our troops were already in the
field, changed the whole of the small armament of the Infantry.
I firmly believe that it was to this circumstance that our suc-
cesses, both at Alma and Inkerman, were mainly due, and all
my subsequent conversations on this subject with Russian officers
go far to prove it.
=
J 2
116
[CHAP. XX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
Recent experience has now caused us to look upon the
smooth bore comparatively as a toy; but it must be borne in
mind, that at that time no such experience existed, and that the
only army then armed with the rifle was the army of Shamyl, in
the mountains of the Caucasus, and the militia of Switzerland.
Too much credit cannot be accorded to our Commander-in-
Chief, who, braving public opinion and that of so many tried
officers, took upon himself at this critical juncture to change the
whole armament of the British army.
Not feeling myself justified in remaining longer with the
20th Regiment, I rejoined the head-quarters of my division.
About three weeks later I read in the Times of the death of my
poor friend Captain Dowling, who probably was killed soon after
I left them. About this time I met Sir George Cathcart, who
seemed determined to advance below the Sandbag battery.
Knowing well the locality, I endeavoured to dissuade him from
doing so, as productive, in my opinion, of no benefit; but,
shortly after I had left, he advanced with his Staff, and was
soon after killed, and all his Staff were also either killed
or wounded. I also met the noble Peel on foot, field-glass
in hand his sole inquiries seemed to be for the spot of most
danger.
His Royal Highness having assembled a reserve of Guards,
again led them to the front, supporting the troops of his division
in the Sandbag battery and those of the Second Division. I
imagine that the Russians were about this time preparing their
retreat, being now convinced that they not only could make no
impression on us, but that their losses were frightful. A large
body of French troops, Zouaves, etc., etc., I believe from General
Bosquet's Division, now came up in column, and remained in
this formation, near the ground on which the eighteen-pounder
guns were in position. The Russians covered their retreat by a
CHAP. XX.]
117
THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.
vigorous fire of artillery, the heaviest, I think, I had seen during
the day.
At this time Field-Marshal Lord Raglan, Marshal Canrobert,
His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge, and a large Staff,
were collected near the situation of the eighteen-pounder guns.
The dead and the dying near this spot were in fearful numbers
-French artillerymen, Russian and English soldiers, were
mingled in death in all directions; dreadful were the wounds of
many poor creatures, who as yet could not be sent to the rear.
Our troops now farther advanced, until they arrived under a
heavy fire from the Russians posted on the opposite side of the
Tehernaya, regardless of which they literally pushed the re-
treating Russians over the cliffs of Inkerman; numbers of them
thus perished miserably in the valley beneath.
The troops
were then ordered to return over the field of battle to their several
quarters.
His Royal Highness now directed the energies of his staff-
officers to aid the wounded. How deeply we now regretted that
we had no cacolets, or mule carriages, to assist in this service.
The French, however, not having been deeply engaged, had little
or no occasion for the services of their hospital corps, and
readily placed it at our disposal; and of immense use it was, espe-
cially in the vicinity of the Sandbag battery, from whence we
rescued many a poor friend and enemy, who probably would have
succumbed during the night.
Evening and night coming on, we returned to our tents, and
immediately proceeded to visit the field hospitals. Oh what sad
scenes! no one can realise its horrors but those who have been
there. The poor Russians were brought in and placed in a field
hospital near the mill, attention being paid to their wounds as soon
as possible, the heavy balls of the Minié rifle having given
most ripping wounds.
118
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XX.
Early next morning I proceeded to the field of battle, being
directed to use my best endeavours to discover any wounded men,
and to recover such articles as might be useful to the army
during the coming winter. Here I met the indefatigable corre-
spondent of the Times, Mr. W. Russell, examining minutely the
position, and obtaining all the information which his rapid mind
and pen could in such a magic way place intelligibly before those
countless readers at home, all of whom were deeply interested in
our proceedings. We had not been long there when the Russian
batteries, from the opposite side of the Tchernaya, commanded,
as I afterwards heard, by General Popoff, attracted by our gold
bands, and thinking we were making a survey of their post,
commenced firing shot and shell at Mr. Russell, Colonel Wilbra-
ham, and myself, compelling us to relinquish our search for the
wounded. But for this, many a wounded Russian soldier, whom
we saw crawling towards the Tchernaya on his stomach, would
have been carefully tended in our hospitals.
This, in a few words, is what came under my own observation
on the field regarding the battle of Inkerman. There are many
other interesting circumstances which I could recount, but they
cannot find place in this brief sketch of the day.
Inkerman was a very bloody battle, fought on a confined space
of ground; it frequently assumed the character of a hand-to-
hand encounter with the bayonet, and especially so at the Sand-
bag battery. Here individual acts of heroism were numerous,
and probably there is no action, inclusive of the old Peninsular
campaigns, where the bayonet was more resorted to, or personal
conflicts more frequent.
CHAPTER XXI.
THE FIELDS OF INKERMAN AND ALMA.
I Now return to our ride over the battle-field.
Leaving the
windmill, we rode on towards the position held by the 2nd
Division. I remarked the spot on which I had held my last con-
versation with Colonel Strangways, and also that on which
Colonel Dickson, with such perfect judgment, had placed the
eighteen-pounder guns. Turning thence towards the valley, I
could almost point out the very spot, upon which I had seen my
poor friend Butler's body, and the rising ground from which
Lord Raglan watched the action; next the Sandbag battery,
that scene of strife so nobly won and rewon, and finally held by
the Guards; and farther to the left the line on which I had
halted the wing of the 20th Regiment, and the point at which
Sir George Cathcart had descended to his death. The very
faces of the dying Russian and English soldiers and French
artillerymen came back with force to my mind. I could scarcely
realise that seventeen long years had passed, or believe how
much of the wide globe's surface I had traversed in the interval.
Having minutely examined the whole ground, we rode down
into the Tchernaya valley, and crossing the bridge, after having
examined the aqueduct, we entered the court-yard of the Convent
of Inkerman. We here visited the chapels, cut many centuries
since out of the rock; they are most interesting and curious,
120
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXI.
highly decorated, and furnished with some fairly-executed
pictures of saints. The monks pointed out to us many traces
of the war, the shutters being riddled with rifle-bullets, and also
one twelve-pound shot which, on the day of the battle of Inker-
man, had entered the inner chapel and struck the altar. The
monks were very civil and obliging, heating their samovar and
giving us an excellent cup of hot tea before our departure.
From the convent we had a good view of the channel, cut
both under and on the face of the rock, by the engineer,
Mr. Upton, which, by diverting the waters of the Tchernaya,
enabled the basins of the docks to be replenished with water at
pleasure. We then rode by the side of the harbour into the city.
It was about 5 P.M. when we returned; we had thus spent eight
or nine hours on horseback, under a sun the heat of which the
thermometer registered as one hundred and thirty degrees.
Having made arrangements to visit Batcheserai and the field
of Alma, we started for that purpose at 4 A.M. on the morning of
the 30th July. We had taken the precaution of sending the
ponies we were to ride, with a Tartar attendant, to the Severnaia,
or north side of the harbour, saving thereby a detour of at least
eight or nine versts. Crossing the harbour in a boat of the
Russian Company, placed at our disposal by the kindness of
Captain Skeriatein, a naval officer, who had witnessed the entire
war in Sebastopol, we mounted our little nags at 5 a.m.
B
These ponies were neither goodlooking nor well equipped, but
they proved much better than they looked, and, with the ex-
ception of the punishment inflicted by the miserable saddles,
they carried us well. For the use of the two and our guide, for
the two days, we paid twenty-three roubles, or about three
guineas, and we were told we were fortunate in obtaining them
for that sum.
Our way lay north to the Balbec River, thence three miles up
CHAP. XXI.] THE FIELDS OF INKERMAN AND ALMA.
121
At
its course, we then joined the high road to Batcheserai.
the bridge, three miles up the Balbec, I recognised the turn
in the road which we followed on marching from the Alma, and
the road we took up the hill on the day previously to the flank
march on Balaclava. Reaching the village of Devankoi, we
found the ever-ready samovar, eggs, new milk, etc., etc. Fol-
lowing thence the high road made by Prince Waronzoff, we
arrived at the Khan's Palace at Batchescrai at about 10 A.M.
To those who have no acquaintance with it, I must here give a
short description of the samovar, as I shall have fre quent occasions
to allude to it, owing to its universal use in all parts of Russia.
The samovar is a large brass urn, with a hollow tube down its
centre, and a receptacle below for lighted charcoal, a few lumps
of which are thrown in at the top, and the draught of air
through the centre tube soon sets the lighted charcoal into a
bright glow, causing the water to boil, and, with very slight
attention, keeping it in a boiling state for hours; it is certainly
superior to our urns with an iron heater, which do not retain the
heat more than twenty minutes. I do not, however, consider it,
except in point of economy, so nice as an urn kept heated by a
spirit lamp.
Batcheserai, or the Palace Garden, is the most healthily-
situated town in the Crimea, possessing the purest water in
abundance; and I can readily understand the value set upon its
possession by the former Tartar Khans. On presenting General
Kotzebue's order, we were immediately supplied with handsome
rooms highly furnished in Oriental style. The divans were covered
with velvet cushions embroidered in gold; the walls were
hung with silken tapestry and the ceilings painted in Arabesque
patterns.
After a cheering Turkish bath, in the Oriental Hummum
attached to the palace, and a refreshing mid-day siesta, rendered
122
[CHAP. XXI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
the more agreeable by a long ride in the sun, and by the never-
ceasing murmur of a fountain immediately under our windows,
we were quite prepared for a breakfast furnished from a neigh-
bouring Turkish restaurant. In the afternoon we visited the
ancient halls, the mosque, the gardens and courts. It is most
gratifying to see the care which is bestowed upon their preserva-
tion, and the elegant and correct style in which they are being
redecorated where decayed by age. A full moon rose splendidly
at night, while we were partaking, in the open air, of the hospi-
tality of Colonel Chostak, the Governor of the Palace.
The account which Madame Chostak gave me of the war was
most interesting. She said that on the fact being communicated
to them of our landing at Old Fort, about twenty miles off, they
were not in the least alarmed, feeling certain that within a week
we should be overwhelmed. In a few days, however, our farther
progress caused them some anxiety. Colonel Chostak was with
the troops; and, fearing our advance on the town of Batcheserai,
which was very probable, as it commanded the high road,
Madame Chostak was advised to take refuge with her children in
Sebastopol. She started in her carriage, laden with infants and
household goods. She reached the Balbec at the point I alluded
to, where the road from the Alma joins it. Here her carriage
got entangled with country waggons flying from the villages now
occupied by the allies. She demanded the reason of all this
from a Russian officer, who answered her, "Return for God's
sake while there is yet time to gain home. We have been
entirely defeated in a great action on the Alma. Save yourself
and your children by a timely retreat. The enemy are rapidly
coming on, the roads are encumbered with vehicles, and you will
be overwhelmed first by our flying army and secondly by the
advancing enemy."
Poor lady! although seventeen years had passed, yet the
CHAP. XXI.] THE FIELDS OF INKERMAN AND ALMA.
123
agony of that moment was as vivid in her mind as ever. By
the immense exertions of her servants, they were enabled to clear
the carts and to regain the road home; where, fortunately for
her, though for two years so close to the scene of strife, and even
within hearing of a prolonged fire of musketry, they were not
actually visited by the enemy. But what a sad picture did she
draw of Batcheserai during this period. The Palace was con-
verted into an hospital, with beds for fourteen hundred patients.
Houses in the town were allotted for six thousand wounded, and
certainly not less than forty thousand Russian soldiers now rest
in their graves in the immediate neighbourhood of this small
Tartar town. What an amount of misery do these few words
suggest!
On the next morning, our Tartars being late with our horses,
we did not get fairly into our saddles before 4 A.M. We then
cantered merrily over the turf, in the cool of the morning, for the
field of the Alma. We passed first through the village of Assis,
and, after a ride of about ten miles, we reached the banks of
the Alma river, about a couple of miles above where the action
took place.
Desiring to view the field from the very point upon which I
had myself entered the action, we crossed the river to its northern
bank, and rode over the plain until we arrived at the very spot
on which the 1st Division were put into line. I here remem-
bered that part of the field over which, in our advance, we drove
before us great numbers of jerboa hares, or kangaroos in minia-
ture. Many other circumstances, in each step of our advance
towards the river, came to my mind as we passed over the
very ground on which I had witnessed this terrible death struggle.
I recognised easily one spot in which I escaped as by a miracle
from being blown to pieces by a shell, and another where a
round shot striking the ground rebounded about two feet over His
124
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXI.
Royal Highness's cocked hat, as he was marching at the head of
his Division.
I came upon the corner house where for a few moments I had
rested preparatory to entering the vineyards with the Coldstream
Guards, and calling to mind the point at which they had been
so judiciously re-formed by His Royal Highness's orders, under
cover of a peculiar rise in the southern bank of the river, pre-
paratory to their steady advance up the glacis against the guns.
The heights which the Highlanders mounted were on our left;
and those taken by the French, under cover of the guns of the
fleet, were on our extreme right.
We now rode forward up the gently rising ground until we
arrived at the position occupied as a battery by the most
advanced heavy guns of the Russians, and which on the day
of the action I had entered with the Guards, capturing some
heavy brass ordnance which the Russians in their retreat were
forced to abandon. Farther mounting the hill, we halted where
the 1st Division had formed into line after the action, and where
our horse artillery had unlimbered and fired shell after shell into
the retreating columns of the Russian army. Here I had seen
the glow of pride, mingled with compassion, in the eyes of our
noble Field Marshal after the action.
The sun was now terribly hot. We, however, had no resource
but to press on for Sebastopol, distant about thirty versts, over the
very ground on which we had followed up our beaten enemy.
We thus passed the Katcha river, and again reached the
Balbec; but, before reaching the outworks of Severnaia, we
diverged from our course in order to visit the mausoleum just
finished by Russia in honour of her illustrious defenders.
This I have previously alluded to as a building most solidly
built, gorgeously decorated, and worthy of the nation who
erected it. Outside the building, on a platform overlooking the
CHAP. XXI.] THE FIELDS OF INKERMAN AND ALMA.
125
harbour, is a battery of English guns, captured in the Turkish
redoubts on the morning of the battle of Balaclava, these were
lent by us to the Turks. The graveyard, which is immediately
below, is scrupulously kept, and tastefully laid out, with a hand-
some wall of white stone surrounding it. The first care, there-
fore, of the Russians has been to honour their dead. Sebastopol
yet in ruins, the living are ill sheltered; but to the memory of
the dead, the brave defenders of their country, the highest
honours and the utmost respect has been accorded.
Turning again towards the Severnaia we rode over an open
plain on which two Russian field batteries were at drill exercise.
It was now just 12 at noon. The sun was scorchingly hot-at
least at 130 degrees-but the activity of neither men nor horses
appeared in the least relaxed, nor did they seem to suffer from it.
The powers of endurance both of heat and cold in the Russian
soldier is quite astonishing, and on numberless occasions has
called forth my surprise. In 1855, the Cossacks of Tcherna-
mousky, when on outpost duty in front of Kertch, slept during
the entire winter in the open air. Yet so severe was the weather
that we had nearly four feet of snow on the ground. The sca
in the bay of Kertch was frozen so hard that we were landing
forty-eight pounder guns on sledges, and the thermometer had
descended to zero. Again, on the recent voyages which I have
made on the Black Sea, the Don, and the Caspian, I have
observed both officers and men, as well as passengers, voluntarily
exposed to a most terrific sun all day, with no awning over their
heads, and at night to the cold, sharp air of the pestiferous
marshes, not only without complaint, but apparently as a matter
of usual occurrence.
By half-past 12 we were again in Wetzel's Hotel, the white
stones of the city, reflecting the sun, seemed to be extra heated to
receive us. The thermometer in my room in the shade, and
126
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXI.
looking north, at 5 P.M. was standing at 92, and at 6 the follow-
ing morning at 90 degrees.
A refreshing dip in the sea in the afternoon, at the delightful
bathing houses, re-invigorated us after our morning ride of forty-
five versts under this tropical sun. The bathing at Sebastopol is
quite perfect. Commodious houses are erected; the ladies' portion
being, of course, separated from that of the men.
Both are
spacious, and give plenty of room for swimming without going
into the harbour, which, however, is open to any one who
desires it. The sea is deep and clear. Boys bring balls of
curious blue clay, which they offer for a few pence. It is a sort
of fuller's earth, and acts as soap. It is found in a seam, about
a yard thick, in the hill side, near Inkerman, and is supposed to
impart a softness and beauty to the skin, like the soft mud of the
Nile and the Indus. That from the Nile is said to be sent to
Constantinople in considerable quantities for the use of the ladies
in the harems.
I
CHAPTER XXII.
KERTCH.
On the 1st August we again quitted Sebastopol, taking our
passage in the Russian Company's steamship Mithridates. It
was unfortunate that this ship should have fallen to our lot, as
from her small size, and the dirt, discomfort, and bad feeding on
board, she was universally considered one of the worst on the
line, and with reason, as the sequel proved; for a great number
of passengers were taken ill in the Sea of Azof, and amongst
them the captain himself.
The passengers on board the vessel were, without exception,
most agreeable, imparting information respecting the country
very readily. Most of them spoke French, and many English
also. They were mostly proceeding to Yalta or Theodosia for
the summer bathing, and some few were going on to the Caucasus.
I was greatly indebted to Madame la Baronne Vorefsky for
the information and advice she gave me respecting Tiflis and the
Caucasus generally. This lady's husband had been employed
against Shamyl, and had fallen at his final overthrow in Da-
ghestan. Madame Vorefsky had accompanied him closely in
these campaigns, and described them with an interest which I
was able to realise when I visited the country subsequently.
We reached Yalta that afternoon. The vessel stopped for
three hours, but we did not land. We reached Theodosia, for-
128
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXII.
2
merly called Kaffa, the next morning at 7 o'clock. Kaffa is
finely situated on the margin of the sea, and is yearly increasing
in importance. In 1808 Dr. Clarke stated that it possessed only
fifty families, and that the Russian soldiers were destroying the
town, throwing down the minarets, and tearing down even the
fountains, to obtain the lead for their muskets, which at that
period each soldier in the army had to provide at his own cost.
Arrangements are very carefully made on board these vessels
that the meals should take place during the time that the ships
are in the harbours. By this they obtain two advantages. They
save the dinners of all such passengers as desire to see these towns
during the interval of two hours or so that the vessel remains,
and they furnish no meals to either the incoming or the outgoing
passengers. This mean economy is altogether unworthy of a
great company, who are making already such excessive profits as
to divide more than forty per cent. per annum on the original
shares; but this company, being under the protection of the
government, is, I presume, free from any censorship of the press.
One excellent invention is in use in all these vessels, as well as
in those on the Don, the Volga, and the Caspian. A gigantic
samovar stands on the deck, not far from the funnel. By means
of the steam below, water is kept continually boiling in it, so that
the everlasting calls of many hundred tea-pots are always
answered. The lower class passengers invariably carry their
own tea, sugar, and tea-pots, and these they put in requisition
at all hours of the day. I believe a great deal of good might be
done upon this principle at home, if a samovar were attached in
some public place to a steam factory, with free liberty to any
one in the street to bring their tea-pot. There is no habit which
is more readily acquired than the use of weak tea, and I believe
that a perfect facility of obtaining it hot and palatable would
prove one of the most serious blows the gin-shop ever received.
CHAP. XXII.]
129
KERTCH.
If the idea was taken up by so philanthropic a man as Lord
Shaftesbury, it might meet with some success.
About noon we came in sight of Kertch, the city of Mithridates,
and at one o'clock we passed under the batteries of the fort, which
we used to call St. Paul, but which now is called the Fort of
Kertch. During the second year of the war, I had spent some
months in the occupation of this station, and was acquainted with
every yard of the country. All looked devoid of any change with
the exception of the fort; but here a mighty work had for years
been zealously carried on; and although in passing we could form
but a very general idea of the works, yet they appeared most
formidable. Batteries rose one above another, apparently mounted
with very heavy guns, while immense ditches and covered ways
scamed the face of the hill in every available direction.
The Circassian side of the channel being by nature shallow,
had been improved by art, and many thousand tons of stone had
been thrown in to make such an obstruction as to oblige vessels
even of the lightest draught, entering or leaving the Sea of
Azof, to pass immediately under the formidable batteries of the
fort. A small harbour had also been excavated at the foot of the
hill, and a lighthouse erected, apparently for the purpose of burn-
ing a lime-light, so that on the darkest night the exact position
of any passing boat might be clearly shown to the gunners.
We rounded the point, and lay alongside the wharf. The
town of Kertch appeared much the same as we had left it—the
large quarantine buildings one heap of ruins.
We hired a carriage with the forlorn hope of seeing the fort,
by paying our respects to the general in command. In approach-
ing his residence we passed some of the numerous covered ways,
and entered an outwork, which, although it was evidently ex-
tensively casemated, yet also contained, above ground, barracks
for a very large number of soldiers and officers.
K
130
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXII.
We were not at all surprised when we were informed that the
general in command was not at home, and next that his adjutant
had accompanied him, an answer which of course precluded us
from the least chance of being permitted to see any of the inner
works. We had, however, a very fair view of the outer works, which
were very extensive, and most solidly built, consisting of deep
ditches lined with casemated barracks deeply covered with earth.
To each of these casemates were attached air-shafts. The bat-
teries were not fully armed, nor the embrasures opened out; but
long rows of guns were lying ready to be mounted, apparently
Krupp's guns, of large calibre. Hundreds of artificers, such as
masons and blacksmiths, were busy at work, and we could easily
discover that this outwork, although so much labour was be-
stowed upon it, was as nothing to the inner works, which we
could not enter. The entire hill appeared to have been bur-
rowed into, and made one continued casemated barrack, and
batteries placed at every available position for most powerful
artillery.
The Fort of Kertch looks as if designed in war for a force of
at least ten or twelve thousand men, and appears impregnable.
The works on the land side are not in so forward a condition
as those towards the sea; but, taught by the lesson they received
at Sebastopol, they no longer neglect their land defences.
I regretted that we could not sce more of the interior of this
fort, but we were indeed somewhat astonished that we had seen
so much, enough to give us a very fair idea of what remained to
be explored; and the more so, when we afterwards ascertained
that we had actually seen more than our own Vice-Consul, to
whom the opportunity of even entering the outer fortifications
had never yet been accorded.
The Fort of Kertch has already cost Russia the yearly labour
of two thousand men, many of them skilled artificers, for nine or
CHAP. XXII.]
131
KERTCH.
ten years, at an outlay of two and a half million of roubles yearly,
that is, in all between three and four millions of pounds sterling.
And now let us consider what are the objects of this formidable
work and enormous expenditure. It is asserted that its only
object is to secure the integrity of the Sea of Azof. This it pro-
bably will most effectually do; but looking to the coal mines now
worked near Rostow, and the iron not far distant, I am inclined
to believe that the possibility of securing the safety of an iron-
clad constructing harbour at Kertch is not entirely lost sight of.
Should the Russians possess the control of the Black Sea,
every result they may desire from this work will be gained; but
if any other power possesses it, then Kertch, although it may
secure the granaries of the Sea of Azof, can do little more in
return for the powerful garrison of troops which it must keep in-
active. Moreover, an enemy might effectually seal this fort from all
aggressive movement by a line of torpedoes laid down across its
entrance, and out of the range of fire from the fort: and thus,
however impregnable itself, it could be rendered quite innocuous,
and be compelled to waste its latent energies in forced inactivity.
It is therefore really questionable whether a well-arranged
system of torpedoes, at the entrance of the harbour, would not
have been equally effectual, as the enormous works which
they have erected at so great an expense and such immense
labour.
.
There exists in England a wide-spread opinion that the time
is not distant, when Russia will take the first favourable oppor-
tuity of attacking Turkey, and snatching that valuable and long-
coveted prize, Constantinople; and that her first step towards
this end will be the creation of a powerful fleet of ironclads in
the Black Sea. If such is her secret determination, which is
quite possible, as her counsels lie hid in the breast of one man,
it will be long before she can carry it out, unless, as I before
K 2
132
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXII.
said, she is permitted to procure those vessels elsewhere, and to
pass them in through the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus; for
it must be many years before she can hope to build in the Black
Sea such ironclads as the Turks now possess anchored under
Constantinople.
All the antecedents of the present Emperor indicate that he is
not desirous of entering upon aggressive measures against Turkey,
but that he is bent upon the development of his own country, in
its trade and commerce and its railway communications; but
small events may suddenly cause great changes in the sentiments
and ideas of one man; and where the sole will of an autocrat
guides the movements of a nation, such an alteration may at any
moment cause an entire change of policy. The longer therefore
the possession of these tempting engines of aggression in the
Black Sea is delayed to Russia, the better for the peace of
Europe; and it would in my opinion be most unwise for the
Sultan to consent to their entry into the Black Sea through
the Dardanelles and Bosphorus.
But almost while writing this sentence, I see it reported in the
Times of the 9th of January, that "in compliance with a Russian.
request the Porte has announced its willingness to facilitate their
passage through the Dardanelles, in case a desire to this effect is
expressed by all the signatory powers of the Paris treaty." I
may have formed erroneous opinions, or be badly instructed in
the diplomacy of this subject, but I consider it purely suicidal on
the part of Turkey to grant this permission.
The British Consul at Kertch appeared to deplore his fate in
being cast into this corner of the Crimea, which he described in
the most gloomy terms. He complained that a total estrange-
ment from society was enforced upon him, his few attempts at
cordiality being almost immediately met by a desire to borrow
from him forty or fifty roubles; and as he was not a card player,
CHAP. XXII.]
133
KERTCH.
and could ill afford these requisitions on his slender allowances,
he was compelled to lead a solitary and unsocial life.
We were not sorry to leave Kertch, more especially as the
cholera had begun to show itself in the town in rather a virulent
form, and therefore the least which we might expect would be a
detention in quarantine wherever we went.
CHAPTER XXIII.
SEA OF AZOF.
On the afternoon of the 2nd August we left Kertch for
Taganrog, situated on the northern corner of the Sea of Azof.
We passed through the narrow straits of Yenikale, and by the
town of that name. No military works appear to have been
lately erected here, the fort being in the same state as when we
relinquished it in 1856. Steaming on, we entered the shallow,
turbid, muddy waters of the Sea of Azof. On the opposite coast
is the town of Taman, which suffered severely during the
Russian war. There are some very ancient tombs near at hand,
in one of which a bracelet of pure gold was found of the snake
pattern, precisely similar to those manufactured in India. Beyond
Taman is the country of the Tchernymousky Cossacks, whose
endurance and bravery we had so much occasion to admire in the
Crimea.
This night's voyage proved one of the most disagreeable it
was our fate to endure during our tour. It thundered, light-
ened, and poured with rain during the entire night, while the
deck being dry, and the seams open, the water flooded our
cabin, literally setting afloat what property we had left on the
floor. With the greatest difficulty we obtained the assistance of
the steward, who having in the morning resisted the entry of
my portmanteau into the cabin, now seemed delighted that it
CHAP. XXIII.]
155
SEA OF AZOF.
should be saturated with water and turned into a boat. But
this was by no means the worst evil I had to endure, for,
in common with many other passengers, I was attacked with
choleraic symptoms, and I owe many thanks to a clever physician
from Moscow, Dr. Kobiakoff, a chance traveller, who was good
enough to attend me, and who very soon set me right again, and
who resisted all my attempts to make him accept some fee or
remuneration. He was, he said, on a tour of pleasure, and not
on a professional one.
Early on the morning of the 3rd August, we reached Berdins-
kaia, a large corn emporium in the north of the Sea of Azof. Ships
cannot approach nearer than five or six miles. This town will
ere long be united by rail with Taganrog on the east, and with
Simperopol on the west. The day throughout was most un-
pleasant-rainy and stormy, a very usual circumstance, I am
told, in this sea.
By 7 P.M. we had reached Taganrog, but we had to proceed a
considerable distance within the shipping before we made the
quay. So shallow is the water opposite the city that not unfre-
quently persons can cross on foot to the opposite shore, nearly
twenty versts distant.
We soon found ourselves lodged in an extraordinary sort of
lodging-house, containing large corridors, from which were
bunked off small compartments built in wood, each let by the
night or week, and in which there was no furniture, except a
plain wooden sofa, a table and a couple of chairs, with the
free use of a large samovar ever ready in the passage. We
now began to find how requisite it is, when travelling in
Russia, to conform to the customs of the country, and to be
provided with bedding, inconvenient as it is to be encumbered
with baggage. With great difficulty we induced the proprietor
to supply the deficiency.
136
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXIII.
We were now joined in our travels by a most charming com-
panion, Viscount Figanière, the Portuguese ambassador at St.
Petersburg, whose acquaintance we had made in the Crimea.
He had resided for many years in England, and so perfectly does
he speak our language, that it was impossible to detect that he
was not a native of the north of England. Fortunately for us,
he had also a considerable acquaintance with the Russian lan-
guage. This, and his great kindness on all occasions of diffi-
culty, obtained for us an exemption from much trouble and
vexation during the time we had the pleasure of travelling in
his society.
Katj
It was now requisite to recruit our finances, as no other
opportunity of doing so would occur before reaching Tiflis. For
this purpose I applied to Mr. Yeames, the correspondent of
Messrs. Coutts in Taganrog. He received me very kindly, but
to my surprise he told me that he was quite unacquainted with
the usual method of cashing circular letters, as although he had
been a merchant in Taganrog for twenty years, yet this was the
first occasion upon which he had ever been requested to honour
one of Coutts's circular letters. This circumstance shows how little
this route is frequented by Englishmen.
There appeared to be a large amount of business going on in
Taganrog; all, however, connected with the export of corn, the
staple product of this country; and as this had been the most
productive season which Russia has known for many years, the
price of labour ranged comparatively high, the common field
hands receiving three or four roubles, or between ten and twelve
shillings per day, and in no part of the country that we had yet
been in, did they receive less than eight. The profits to the corn-
grower will be enormous this year, as the failure of the crops
in Western Europe appears to have been commensurate with the
abundance in the East. The farms are enormous in extent.
CHAP. XXIII.]·
137
SEA OF AZOF.
The name of one Russian gentleman was given to me, whose
breadth of land under tillage this year was stated to be no less
than forty thousand acres.
As a counterpoise to the large sum of money which, especially
this winter, will have to be paid by England to Russia for bread-
stuffs, it was satisfactory to see such an enormous collection of
English-made agricultural machinery. Mr. Yeames's premises,
although extensive, were unable to contain all that was sent to
him. Here were rows of Ipswich-made steam engines and
threshing and winnowing machines, and some hundreds of
ploughs. This cannot but have the effect of cheapening the
corn to the hard-working mechanic in England.
Before leaving Taganrog, we visited the house and the room
in which Peter the Great died. A small chapel was fitted up in
the chamber of death. The house was sacred to his memory-
unused and unoccupied, preserved under the care of a pensioned
old officer, exactly as it stood when he resided and died in it.
It was interesting to reflect what immense progress this part of
Southern Russia had made since the days of Peter the Great, both
in extent and general advancement.
In the afternoon we passed by rail to Rostow, situated on the
the river Don. It is a very old city, and the seat of a very
considerable trade, which, in consequence of the recent opening
of the coal mines, and the discovery of iron ore in the
neighbourhood, as well as the general increase of agriculture
ncar the banks of the Don, bids fair to become very much
larger.
We were sorry we could not visit the town of Nova Circas,
in which a large number of Tartars, originally fugitives from
the Caucasus, are now located. They carry on an industry
of working in ornaments of gold and silver, such as we after-
wards saw in the height of its perfection in the mountains of
138
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXIII.
Daghestan. These people not long since discovered a curious and
valuable gold crown, studded with precious stones, said to have
been the crown of the Tartar Khan, who ruled over the country
bordering the Don, before it was conquered and annexed by
Peter the Great.
It now became necessary for us to determine our future move-
ments. Our original intention was to visit Circassia and the
Caucasus. I was most unwilling to be beaten off from it, and yet
great difficulties presented themselves. When I mentioned in
Constantinople that such was my intention, I was warned on
all sides not to carry it into execution at this season. Even
before we left London, experienced persons at the Foreign Office
pointed out its great danger. Of the many evils held out to warn
us the least was fever or ague in the marshy lands of Imeretia.
Finding it, therefore, undesirable to enter this dangerous land
by the front and direct road, I was determined to beat about, and
see if the enemy's flank could not be turned; and the sequel
proved, by perfect success, that it could. Not only was this accom-
plished, but the route we took was in fact the best at this season,
and gave us the opportunity of exploring a part of the country
almost unknown to English travellers. And singularly enough,
the season in which we travelled there, viz., September, proved
the very best in the whole year for making this mountain expe-
dition. We, however, had no means of discovering this beforehand.
No books which we could procure in London gave us the least
clue to it; for, in fact, the information on the Caucasus which
has been as yet published is most meagre.
We were informed at Rostow that by taking a diligence
(which, however, turned out to be no more than a springless
covered waggon) we might reach Tiflis, via Stravapol and Vla-
dicavcas, a journey of eight hundred and sixty-eight versts, over
wild, open steppes, under a fierce sun. This was too much to
CHAP. XXIII.]
139
SEA OF AZOF.
endure on a journey of pleasure. We therefore determined to
adopt the plan of mounting the Don by steamer, crossing by a
short railroad from Kalach to Tsaritzin, on the Volga, and then
descending that river to Astrakhan. By taking a steamer from
that point to Petrolvks or Derbende, about six or seven hundred
versts on the Caspian, we might enter this apparently forbidden
region from the east, as it appeared by general consent (at any
rate at this season), impossible to do so from the west.
CHAPTER XXIV.
ON THE DON.
LATE in the evening of the 4th August we embarked in a
small steamer on the River Don, sleeping that night, and many
subsequent ones, on the couches in our clothes. We were aware
that this being the driest season of the year there would be
but little water in the Don, and that it was more than possible
that we should be much delayed by the vessel continually
grounding. But our voyage turned out more fortunate than
any one in Taganrog or Rostow predicted.
At half-past 6 A.M., we started up the river. Fortunately
there were no other first-class passengers beyond our party of
three, during the entire voyage. This gave us the whole of a very
large saloon cabin to ourselves, but we had nothing but this for
sleeping, eating, washing, etc., etc. On our way up the Don we
made every possible inquiry as to our progress beyond Astrakhan,
but could obtain no information whatever on this subject.
The vessel was literally crammed with second, third, and fourth
class passengers. The whole of the upper deck was given up to
them. Near the funnel was the usual gigantic samovar attached
to the deck, the centre of attraction at all hours; tea-pots all day
long of every size, colour, quality, and substance being replenished
from its capacious dimensions ever boiling hot. It is perfectly
astonishing to observe how much and how long the Russians
CHAP. XXIV.]
ON THE DON.
141
will drink tea, and the dexterity with which they economise
their sugar; breaking off a piece of convenient size they poise
it in their mouths, and sweeten their tea by allowing it to run
past the sugar. This custom must have some advantages, as it is
universally practised. The sugar is generally of excellent quality,
white and hard.
The villages on the river side were entirely built of wood, with
the exception of the churches, which were either of brick or
stone, and covered with iron, painted green. These villages must
be not only very inflammable, but very expensive, as all the wood
used on the Don, and a great deal on the Sea of Azof is, as I
shall hereafter show, brought down the Volga.
Some of the passengers were rough-looking fellows, feeding
themselves upon the coarsest food. The usual dress of the men
was a loose pair of trousers and long boots, with a red cotton
shirt over all, and a small leathern cap. It is by no means an ugly
dress, and when in groups looks very picturesque. The women
are dressed in a poor sort of European costume, thinly clad in
cotton, and neither in dress nor in looks are they at all pre-
possessing.
As we ascended the river we continually saw large quantities
of sturgeon and other fish landed by nets of great strength. The
quantity of sturgeon said to be caught in this river is almost
incredible. Marsh birds of all kinds, herons, pelicans, cormo-
rants, ducks of every variety whirl and flap along the shore, and
the osprey, or fishing eagle, was busy at his prey, while large
flocks of tame geese with no apparent owner were quietly nib-
bling the grass on the margin. Occasionally a Don Cossack would
suddenly present himself on the bank, mounted on a wiry ragged
pony, sitting forward on the pummel of his saddle, so peculiar to
the Easterns, and staring steadily at the vessel until it was out
of sight; and here and there we saw the river guards encamped
142
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXIV.
in small and hastily built huts on the banks, who indicated, by
circular painted wooden disks on long poles thrust into the sand
at shallow places, the various changes which the shifting river
had made in the depth of water. Although our boat was fully
one hundred feet long, she only drew eighteen inches of water;
yet we met with endless detentions from grounding on the
shallows.
ܐ ܀
STUCK ON A SANDBANK UP THE DON.
A:
pomagal satu sem
Every evening as the day closed, we had to take precautions
against the entry of musquitoes into the cabin, for if we neglected
this until the candles were lighted, we knew well what we should
suffer all the night. On board these boats an excellent plan was
adopted, one which I have never seen elsewhere. To each
window was fitted a frame, and stretched across it a piece of fine
wire gauze, allowing the air to pass freely through, but effectually
excluding the musquitoes.
CHAP. XXIV.]
143
ON THE DON.
At Constantina we changed the vessel for one somewhat
smaller and of still lighter draught; but, nevertheless, we met
with great delay from the shallowness of the water. By Monday
evening we had only accomplished two hundred and forty-five
versts out of the total distance of four hundred and ninety-five-
from Rostow to Kalach. That night we spent on a sandbank near
Trimlanskaia, and began to be alarmed lest we should finish the
summer there. It was, therefore, very pleasing to see the good
will with which the men worked to get the vessel off the bank;
for hours and hours these men would toil under a most broiling
sun, up to their waists in the water, hauling and hauling at the
vessel, obeying with alacrity every word of the captain.
While on board this vessel we tried many of the wines of the
Don, but both red and white were of the poorest quality, weak
and rather acid; but they were not inferior to the Crimean
wines, of which, although they are sometimes well spoken of,
none of us had been fortunate enough to obtain a good sample in
the Crimea. Our principal beverage, therefore, became tea, in
the Russian style, very hot, very weak, and with a slice of lemon,
which, after all, in a very hot climate, is perhaps the most
refreshing beverage which can be taken, and it is singular how
the taste and the habit grow upon any one who gives it a trial.
At length on Wednesday morning we made fast to the wharf at
Kalach. Here we left the river, and took the railway for the
Volga.
I must here say a few words concerning those excellent and
noble soldiers, the Don Cossacks, who have made such extensive
settlements on the river. The whole of the vast steppe country
bordering on the River Don has been colonised by the Don Cos-
sacks, to whom very considerable privileges are accorded. To
each soldier and his family an area of ninety acres of land is
granted; for this he pays no rent, but his obligation is to serve
•
144
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXIV.
fifteen years free of pay, out of which three years must be spent
in St. Petersburg, in His Imperial Majesty's Guard. The officers,
in like manner, receive their portion of land, but, of course, to a
much greater extent. To general officers three thousand acres
are allotted. Soldiers are not permitted to sell their land, but
when absent or on service, it is tilled by the members of the
family who remain in the settlement. Each officer and each
soldier is obliged to find his own horse, but an extra compensation
is granted to officers for this purpose.
There are now settled in the vicinity of the Don about eighty
thousand Cossacks in villages and settlements at short distances
from each other. This number includes thirty batteries of
artillery of eight guns each. These military colonists render
excellent service to the empire, and a double benefit is derived:
first, that they bring a boundless steppe into cultivation, and
secondly, their military service is almost free of cost. They are
a very fine body of men, rigidly obedient, full of love for their
Tsar and Russia, hardy, and able to endure heat and cold to an
almost incredible degree, excellent horsemen, active, intelligent,
and trustworthy.
CHAPTER XXV.
ON THE VOLGA.
THE railway station at Kalach stands immediately above the
landing place from the steamers. We took our places for
Tsaritzin, starting at 9 A.M.
One of the principal objects of the construction of the railway
from Kalach to Tsaritzin, connecting the Volga with the Don,
was the transport of the pine timber, which grows in such pro-
fusion on the upper part of the Volga, to the Don and the shores
of the Sea of Azof, where there is literally none. Enormous
quantities of wood, brought down the Volga in rafts, are put upon
this railroad at Tsaritzin, and on their arrival at Kalach are
again built into smaller rafts, fitted for the Don.
The distance between these rivers I do not think exceeds fifty
miles, and at 2 P.M. we arrived at Tsaritzin, a wild straggling
town of little better than wooden shanties, the roads through
which were rough and irregular. Here we came upon the
noble Volga, a magnificent river, which, even at this season of
low water, was at least a mile and a half broad. On the opposite
bank there appeared a fringe of wood some miles deep, and
then, again, the endless steppes of Russia.
The trade on the Volga by steamers is extensive. The engines
are entirely fed with wood, of which there were on the bank
numberless acres of logs ready cut and piled up some ten feet
L
146
[CHAP. XXV.
TRAVELS IN THE FASTERN CAUCASUS.
high, and companies of women, somewhat rough in manners,
were ready in waiting for the steamers, to run it on board
by means of wooden bearers held between two of them. This
river is said to swarm with fish of innumerable descriptions;
but we were warned to be most cautious not to eat any of them,
as it was said that on eating them, especially if followed by
drinking water, an attack of cholera was quite sure to follow.
A steamer was due at 4 o'clock. They only wait for a few
minutes, to exchange passengers and a small amount of cargo,
during which interval they take in as much wood as the female
company of bearers can place on board. We had to wait four
hours; but the accounts in the guide-books of the Volga steamers
led us to expect to be fully repaid by the comfort, convenience,
and grandeur of these vessels. At 7 P.M. the steamer presented
herself; but great was our disappointment, when, instead of
cleanliness, good cabins, and tolerable fare, all turned out to be
squalid, rude, and uncivilised.
The real truth is, Russia has not yet donned the garb of
civilisation—as we accept the term. In its immense population
there may be thirty or forty thousand persons who have travelled,
are highly polished, and thoroughly understand the signification
of this term; but the mass have no conception of the meaning of
the word comfort, or what we consider the necessary conditions of
an easy existence. I sat down in the pent-up hot cabin, which,
with the exception of one small window near the roof, about
twelve inches square, had no light; and I began to wonder how
I could have left all the comforts of home to be freely seeking
so many disagreeables here, to have encountered all the pains,
trouble, fatigue, and expense to find myself in such a situation.
The entire deck was, as usual, crowded with second, third, and
fourth class passengers, or with cargo. The awning on the
bridge was so poor and thin it was but a sun trap. No cabin
CHAP. XXV.]
147
ON THE VOLGA.
was more than six feet by five. There was no saloon at all-
and the smell-oh! oh! Moreover, I was by no means cured.
of the symptoms from which I had suffered on the sea of Azof,
and they were evidently returning. We spent all that night and
the greater portion of the next day in great discomfort. The food
which, with difficulty, we obtained at all, equalled, in all respects,
the accommodation. It is fair, however, to say, that in the hard
days and nights which we underwent subsequently in our tour,
none were of so disagreeable a character as this.
About 3 P.M. we passed the residence of Prince Tumeen
and a very large Mongolian temple. This tribe of Mongolian
Tartars own a very large tract on the west side of the Volga,
about two hundred miles square, and reaching down to Astrakhan.
It is said that they came into this country as settlers about one
hundred years since, being then given the wild tract above
alluded to, portions of which they have carefully cultivated and
improved. Indeed, not long since, when the Government paid
an indemnity on emancipating the serfs, Tumeen received one
hundred thousand roubles; and if, as it is said, his yearly rents
are about equal to the same sum, this Kalmuck chief must be
considered excessively rich.
The Kalmucks living on the side of the river appeared wretched
enough. Their houses consist of a few sticks covered with coarse
canvas, which, on the rising of the river in the spring, they are
compelled to put into their rude boats, and remove into the inner
country. Although these people are in a very humble position,
yet for food they seem not to be so badly off. In the summer
they catch an endless quantity of fish, and in the winter they eat
horses, and dogs, in addition to anything else they can obtain.
They drink large quantities of brick tea, softened by some mare's
milk, of which they are particularly fond.
At about 8 P.M. of the 10th of August we arrived at the
L 2
148
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXV.
city of Astrakhan. The guide-books recommended to us the
Hôtel Russie. Having, with immense difficulty, got our traps
into some tiny droskys, literally in size no bigger than the little
carts sometimes seen in country towns drawn by dogs, we started
off through the town in search of that hotel. The night was very
dark, and our stock of Russian small. After a long and fruitless
search, we decided that our better course would be to drive to
the palace of the Governor, and ask advice as to the most fitting
place to put up at. We were here recommended to proceed to a
sort of hotel lodging-house, called the Hôtel Matchaloff, with
which a subsequent residence of some days' duration made us
very contented. At any rate we rested assured that it was the
best hotel in Astrakhan; and, moreover, that no such hotel as
the Hôtel Russie existed at all. I may mention the prices
at the Hôtel Matchaloff as showing how reasonable the living
in Astrakhan is. For three meals per day, including rooms and
attendance, the charge was only eight shillings each, exclusive of
wine.
On Monday the 14th of August we much regretted that we
were to part company with Viscount Figanière. In him we had
found a most charming companion for nearly a fortnight. Unfor-
tunately he had made engagements in the north of Russia, near
Nijni Novgorod, and therefore was obliged to proceed up the
river Volga to that city. It moreover happened to be the period
of the great fair which is annually held there, one of the most
interesting things of its kind in Europe, but which, in conse-
quence of the new system of railroads and other modern changes,
is beginning to dwindle in its proportions and interests.
Viscount Figanière embarked in a large river steamer called
the Alexander the Second, built in three decks after the model
of one of the Mississippi boats. The Russians universally con-
sidered her perfection; but whether for size, build, or fittings,
CHAP. XXV.]
149
ON THE VOLGA.
she would be considered but a very third-rate affair in America.
He was to take about seven or eight days on his voyage to Nijni
Novgorod. The passage money, exclusive of table, was thirty-
five roubles, or less than five pounds; and the table expenses,
exclusive of wine, might be set down at about three roubles, or
eight shillings, per day. A return voyage on the Volga, from
Nijni Novgorod down the stream to Astrakhan, will generally
take about five days. I mention these points, as they may prove
useful information.
•
It will now be my province to give some account of the city of
Astrakhan; but as I had a great many business letters to write
at this time, I requested my son to help me, and this he has
done in the following brief account.
CHAPTER XXVI.
ASTRAKHAN.
THE city of Astrakhan stands upon an island surrounded by
the waters of the Volga. It is dusty in summer, windy in
autumn, frozen up in winter, and knee-deep in mud in spring.
There are no trees, no pleasant fountains, and no pavements to
the wide rugged roads. The houses are mostly built of wood,
there being but a very few of stone.
One point in Russia that especially strikes the stranger is that
everything is commenced on a large and pretentious scale, and
then badly carried out and half finished. All Russian towns
cover an enormous extent of ground, imperfectly filled. Russian
gardens are frequently wild parks. Russian rooms too frequently
are large barns, and, indeed, I think that Russians generally lay
out plans too vast and too grand for their powers of execution.
Again, Russia is spreading over a vast territory, and wasting
force which might be spent in improvements at home. She is
laying, it is true, the framework of a mighty monarchy; but
when the building will be covered in, no one can foretell. Her
empire would be far more formidable if of half the size and
better developed.
In this rambling, dusty, wooden city there are sixty thousand
inhabitants, of which not ten thousand are Russians. The rest
of the population of Astrakhan is very various; there are Tartars,
!
CHAP. XXVI.]
151
ASTRAKHAN.
Persians, Armenians, Kalmucks, a few Kirghis, etc., etc. Thus
there are many religious persuasions, such as Roman Catho-
lics, Protestants, Lutherans, Greeks, Armenians, Mahometans,
and Buddhists.
It must not be expected that the houses are all neat and tidy`;
they are of good size, but covered with remnants of old paint,
and with broken wooden ornaments, boards patched on to mend
chinks, and over all a sprinkling, or rather coating, of white dust.
A peculiarity exists which deserves notice. In each room in
every Russian house is invariably placed a picture of the Virgin
Mary and Infant Saviour; these vary in value of framing, in
painting and ornament, according to the wealth of the owner.
Sometimes they are exceedingly rich in gilding, and even in
jewels.
A family can be supported very fairly for twenty pounds per
annum in Astrakhan, and the lower class for much less, for they
are contented to eat some black bread and fruits; a large water
melon, one foot in diameter, costs but one penny; or, perhaps,
they will eat cucumbers, either fresh or pickled in salt, with a
little bread. Caviare is considered a treat; it is eaten spread
on bread; and in the winter season they eat salted fish, dried
hard in the sun, which is first steeped in water, and then boiled.
Caviare is the roe of the sturgeon; when fresh, it may be eaten
raw, with salt, just as it comes from the fish. Should you close
your eyes, you may imagine you were eating a raw egg; but it is
usually eaten when it has been smoked. Great quantities are
sent from Astrakhan into Russia.
The Volga is full of fish. It is a noble river, as it flows, with
its strong steady current, through flat lands to the sea, some-
times a mile wide, sometimes two, but always silent, steady, and
strong. As it nears Astrakhan, it divides itself out, and leaves
huge islands, covered with reeds, seldom inhabited by man, but
152
[CHAP. XXVI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
the abode of flocks of wild fowl, and, I may add, swarms of mus-
quitoes. Pelicans fish by the lonely stream. The wild osprey,
or fishing eagle, wheels round over it, looking down with eager
keen glances into the waters. The Volga flows into the Caspian
Sea by sixty mouths occupying a space of one hundred and sixty
miles, and forming more than three times that number of islands
at its mouth.
MOONLIGHT, ASTRAKHAN.
RAY
The sights of Astrakhan are few. The most notable is the
Cremlin, or fort, built in 1550. Within the wall is a cathedral,
built in 1700, apparently upon principles of architecture peculiar
to itself. Opinions must differ whether either the exterior or the
interior may be called handsome. A gold screen, the repairs of
which lately cost 45007., hides the altar. We were shown the
precious jewels, said to be worth 100,000l., and among them
four mitres, varying in value from 5000l. to 25,000l.; also
CHAP. XXVI.]
153
ASTRAKHAN.
croziers of gold, amulets, miniatures, cups set with jewels, and
precious old manuscript books, bound in gold covers set with
diamonds. Baron Humboldt, when he came to Astrakhan, helped
them to value their treasures. The inner sanctuary is miserably
painted, and no woman is permitted to enter there. The priests
were very poorly and plainly dressed.
The next thing we went to see was the old Admiralty House,
in which are two boats, each about thirty feet long, built under
the direction, and partly by the hands, of Russia's greatest
emperor-Peter. By the side of the boats are the rude tools,
with greasy handles, which formed Peter the Great's own work-
basket, just as he left them. The boats are well made; the
planks are pinned together with wood, somewhat ornamented,
but a little wanting in finish.
A considerable space of ground has been given up as arsenal
ground, and formerly large stores of all kinds were housed here;
but, in consequence of the diminution of water in the mouths of
the Volga, it has been found requisite to change the entire site of
the Caspian Naval Arsenal. Bakou has been selected; its posi-
tion is central; and, in all probability, ere very long it will be in
communication, by rail, with Tiflis, as well as Derbent and
Rostow, and thus with Nicolaef and Odessa, and with the Sea
of Azof.
-
The bazaar in Astrakhan is rather poor, principally consisting
of shops and stores kept by Persians. These are great extor-
tioners. The prices which they asked us for some Persian rugs
and common turquoises exceeded those at which they could be
purchased in Bond Street.
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
THE two following days were perhaps as interesting as any
we spent in the south of Russia.
We paid our respects to General Kostenkoff, who has been
placed in command of the Kalmucks, under the title of Guardian-
in-Chief of them and their country. We asked permission of
him to visit one of their settlements, situated on the other side
of the river, about six miles distant. I cannot express how kind
General Kostenkoff was to us, and although ill with the malarious
fever, so common in this country, especially in this month, he
entertained us with a long account of his Mongolian subjects,
showing the greatest interest in them. We found him hard at
work for their benefit. He had given great attention to the
study of their difficult language; had written a grammar
of it;
had taken sketches of the country; had obtained an excellent
survey of it; had taken many interesting photographs of the
people and of their tents, houses of worship, etc., and was trans-
lating the Bible into their tongue. I understood that about
one hundred of them had already been converted to Chris-
tianity.
General Kostenkoff gave directions that we should have every
facility in visiting the settlement alluded to, sending orders that
all should be in readiness to receive us-more especially as a
CHAP. XXVII.]
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
155
person of such distinction as the Portuguese ambassador at their
Court was to head our party.
On the following afternoon, therefore, we left the hotel in the
diminutive droskys before spoken of, and drove down to the
river; there we found a small ferry boat, into which we soon
lifted our carriages, ponies and all, and crossed over the river,
which was here about three quarters of a mile broad. We then
started off at a good pace for the encampment. We passed
some villages, in which the settlers were Mussulmans, who did
not seem well off, but we heard that these men kept a vast
number of horses, trained to draw a sort of Maltese cart, in which
they carry such articles as are required by the inhabitants of the
vast plain country which forms the Cis-Caucasus, such as tea,
sugar, cloths of all kinds, and in fact everything which they can-
not manufacture.
Entering the Mongolian settlement about 4 P.M., we were
met by the Russian official who has immediate command of it,
accompanied by a vast crowd of Kalmucks, who were dressed in
their smartest costumes to receive us. These Mongolian Kalmucks
are a wild nomad tribe, but are partly settled in villages. They
live in most ingeniously-constructed huts made of lattice-work,
which folds up into a very compact form for easier carriage.
When placed in its position, about four pieces form a circle, fully
fifteen feet in diameter; the walls of the tent are about four feet
six inches high; this is surmounted by a sort of crinoline,
which is then covered by thick felt lashed down with a strong
elastic cord made of camel's hair.
Marco Polo, in relating his travels, speaks of the Mongolian
Tartars as using exactly the same description of tent, which they
removed upon strong carriages with a train of bullocks. Colonel
Yule gives in his edition a correct drawing of this tent. The fire
burns in the centre of the tent, and the smoke escapes from a
156
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXVII.
hole in the centre of the roof. Beds with small musquito cur-
tains are placed round the tent, and also the domestic utensils,
such as a large flat wooden trough for washing purposes, a wooden
tea-pot like a pail, about eighteen inches high and six across,
cups of wood turned, and bowls of metal.
We were invited into one of these abodes, and small stools
given us to sit upon. A large company of women were sitting in
a row round the greater portion of the outer circle of the tent.
An elderly lady performed on a sort of guitar. She squatted
herself on the ground, and caused a number of girls to sit round
her. Apparently she struck the notes quite at random; the girls
sang a long low chant, and then the young girls and men danced.
The guitar, made of deal, was shaped like an ancient lute. It
had two catgut strings, tuned one an octave above the other;
the scale was divided into five notes, and both the strings were
struck together. The dancers put their heads on one side, and
moved them about with a sort of toss, looking as conceited as
possible; then they waved their arms about, and swayed their
bodies at the same time, taking short strutting steps. It is difficult
to give an exact description of the dancing of these dwarfish
people, but it much resembled that of absurdly conceited children
-waving their arms, and turning before a looking-glass, to admire
their new dresses.
These Kalmucks were dressed in very bright colours. The
men shave their heads, the women plait their long, coarse black
hair into pigtails, and many of them wear a cap, which in shape
and colour resembles that of the 16th Lancers. A silver bangle
or two ornament their somewhat dirty arms and wrists, and they
generally wear neither shoes nor stockings. The women are far
fewer in numbers than the men, the whole tribe being supposed
to number about one hundred and twenty thousand, of whom
about forty thousand are women. The result is, that the whole
ni
CHAP. XXVII.]
157
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
race is diminishing and dying out, but whether infanticide is here
practised as in China, I could not ascertain, and probably, if it were
so formerly, it is now suppressed. The care and circumspection
used in regard to these people would certainly prevent the crime.
Some time since, the Russians built a few houses for these
people, but having tried the new abodes, the Kalmucks took
counsel, and when the winter came on they burnt the furniture
for firewood, and then retired to live in their own warm huts,
stabling their cattle and horses in the wooden houses. Nor do
I in the least wonder at this, for the huts are the most com-
modious and the most comfortable I have ever seen, and fulfil all
the conditions desirable for a nomad race. So high is the opinion
formed of these huts by the Russian Government, that they have
already adopted them to some extent for their troops in their
far eastern campaigns, and with the very best results. Had we
possessed hut-tents of this kind in the Crimean war, it would
have saved much of the misery endured by our army during the
first winter of our occupation.
We were very curious to know if they could be readily packed
for a march, and on our expressing a desire to see this done, two
dromedaries, with their slow gait and cross-looking faces, were at
once brought forward. They were made to lie down, uttering
the curious cry which they always do on such occasions. The
family to whom the tent belonged, were alone allowed to perform
the process of taking it down and packing it. In a very short
time the roof was stripped, the felt folded up, the light roof was
then released from the walls, in four pieces, which were shut up
after the fashion of umbrellas devoid of their silk. The walls
then collapsed, exactly the same as the cross-bar woodwork which
fits so prettily round flower-pots, and in a very short time-in
less than twenty minutes-the entire tent, with all its contents,
was packed on the camels' backs. The lady to whom it belonged
158
[CHAP. XXVII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
then jumped cross-legged on a wiry little horse and rode off,
leading the two camels by a strong hair rope. She rode extremely
well, and went at least six miles an hour, round and round the
encampment, nothing being shaken or displaced.
Having served a considerable time in Canada, and travelled
much in the west of America, I may observe that I never saw a
tent-hut so well adapted as this in all points—either for a sport-
ing or military expedition-possessing, as it does, the properties
of easy transport, great warmth, plenty of space, and astonishing
durability.
During the musical entertainment, our Kalmuck host offered us
refreshment, which consisted of tea made from the brick tea,
which is sent in this form from China. It is made from the
refuse leaves and stalks of the plant, mixed with sheeps' blood
and then compressed into slab-like bricks. These are frequently
used in money payment for various articles. This tea is served
up rather weak and lukewarm, and is flavoured with mare's
milk somewhat salted. With all our desire to be polite and
amiable, we could not bring ourselves to swallow this compound
after having tasted it. They also use a spirit called Koumiss, a
sort of brandy made by fermentation from the milk of their
mares. Many persons not of this race are excessively partial to
this liquor, which also possesses the advantage of being able to
be dried, in which state it can be carried very readily on a
journey, and be dissolved when required for use; in short, it is a
sort of very highly-condensed milk.
Next they brought a troop of horses on the ground, and
mounting them, set off at a tremendous gallop, right through the
settlement, regardless of whom, or what might be in their way. It
was a curious sight to see these wild fellows dashing at headlong
speed, their dresses flying in the air, and shouting with wild
cries as they struggled to be foremost. The Kalmucks are won-
CHAP. XXVII.]
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
159
derful horsemen, and especially remarkable for their great en-
durance. It is said that it is not at all uncommon for them to
continue the daily habit of riding until they are past eighty years
of age, or indeed up to ninety.
In order to show us more of their customs, they paraded some
combatants for wrestling. These were dressed in stout canvas
drawers reaching to the knee. Having walked round once or
twice, watching each other with a wary look from beneath their
eyebrows, they crouched down, with bent neck and protruded
chin, waiting their opportunity. Quick as lightning they sud-
denly darted in, each seizing the other with his right hand round
his adversary's neck, and with the left firmly grasping the lower
part of his drawers. Then a struggle of sheer strength began.
At the end of about two minutes one was thrown, and both lost.
their temper. By Kalmuck custom the victor would have the
right to kill his vanquished adversary, but this, of course, is not
sanctioned here, and they were separated, being, we were told,
watched for some time, until their angry blood had time to cool.
The Kalmucks generally are very stupid, but some of them are
not bad workmen. Any young man who evinces more than
ordinary capacity is sent to the university. Some of the lowest of
this race show signs of skin diseases such as leprosy—and are
covered with festers. This is caused by their cleaning out the
intestines of fish with their fingers, and being too idle to wash them
afterwards.
Now came a very interesting sight-the religious arrangements.
Entering a wooden enclosure we saw the priest's hut, made in
the same pattern and of the same materials as the tents already
described, but with richer mats on the walls, and more valuable
carpets on the ground. In the centre of the hut was a small
table upon which were placed a wooden tea-pot, a candlestick, and
some spoons, cups, etc., etc. At the back of the tent, a box,
160
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXVII.
covered with Persian carpets, supported a little painted cupboard,
with folding doors in front, in which was placed a small, rough,
hideous wooden doll, clothed in a long, hideous, silk cloak. Alas!
this was the idol which the Llama, or priest of the village, wor-
shipped many times in the day. A little offering of Mongolian
brick tea and a small cup of beans stood before the hideous little
god, and a little silver lotus flower hang in front of him.
We went on towards the temple. It was whitewashed, the
windows and roof, however, being painted green. It was built in
stories, just in the Chinese fashion, and ornamented with work
carved in wood, painted in bright colours. On entering we found
a low ante-room, with a carpet up the centre, on each side of
which squatted five boys dressed in gaudy yellow calico dresses.
This was the choir. The Llama, or priest, was at the upper end,
nearest to the inner chapel. He had a curious painted brass
crown on his head, and in his hand a pair of brass cymbals.
There were two men with silver flageolets, three with polished
sea shells, two with silver-mounted copper trumpets, each eight
feet long, the mouths of which were supported on small tripods,
and two with drums placed vertically on stands, and struck
with a long, curved, elastic drumstick.
On our entrance they all played away together as hard as
they could, and made an awful noise. This was succeeded by a
chant in a low voice from the priest, and at the conclusion of each
sentence he clapped his cymbals; whereupon the drummers
banged on their drums, and sometimes the shells were blown
again. We were informed that this was a prayer for the Czar
specially, and for all kings and sovereigns in general. After this
they wound up with a tremendous blowing of trumpets and shells,
and banging of drums, cymbals, etc.
We then minutely inspected the temple. A table in the centre,
arranged with a clean white cloth, was covered with various
CHAP. XXVII.]
161
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
objects. There were seven gods here in all. Each on that table
had a little umbrella, a little silver pot of silver lotus flowers, a
little cup of beans and a little cup of tea, and round the table
were arranged curious little silk flags, a beautiful embroidered
canopy hanging over all. At one end of this inner temple, on a
box covered with a silk embroidered cloth, stood a high cupboard
divided into six pigeon-holes, in each of which sat a brass gilt
god. Each had a small yellow coat, and before each were offer-
ings of tea and grain. A lamp continually burnt before these
deities, and the odour of perfumed pastilles went up to gratify
them.
Round the walls were pictures of different gods, such as of
War, Medicine, Wealth, etc., and some were hideous, some
smiling, and all allegorically painted as sitting upon the emble-
matic lotus flower. A prayer-wheel stood on each side of the
door; these were wooden drums, about one foot in diameter and
one foot long. They were made to revolve vertically by a leather
strap and a crank, and appeared to be well worn from frequent use.
Prayers were carved around them, and each spin of that wheel
said four prayers. Thus a vast amount of devotional exercise
was gone through without much labour.
I will not pretend to give an account of their religion, for
Buddhism is well known; but I may mention that they have a
most secret calendar (which, however, was shown to us) indi-
cating their lucky and unlucky days.
Their dead they either burn, or expose upon the barren steppes,
or throw into the River Volga; but this last method is forbidden by
the Russian Government. Some few they bury. They prefer the
plan of burning, but, as it is the more expensive, it is not so
frequently practised. When it is, the ashes are carefully pre-
served in a little box like a snuff-box.
The ordinances of the church are kept in books, in a kind of
M
162
[CHAP. XXVII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
Mongolian writing that none but the Llamas understand. We
were told that these people have completely lost the clue to
their religion, so that they have not the remotest idea of the
meaning of what they do. They regularly pay their little con-
tribution to the church, and they come outside the temple, and
worship, bowing their foreheads to the earth. This they do by
long habit; but they know no reason for the act.
Thus we spent a most interesting day, and had seen what few
suppose to exist in Europe, namely, a settlement of Buddhists
retaining their strange religion. My son was so interested that
next day he returned with a young Armenian gentleman, well
acquainted with the Russian language, and made some sketches of
their temple, their tents, etc. When he had finished, the Kal-
muck head of the village came forward, and requested to see
them. Some he held upside down, pretending to understand
them. Both himself and his friends, however, were especially
delighted at, and perfectly understood, the sketch of their chief
god. They then formed a circle round the party, and made a
very pretty speech, which the Armenian gentleman translated,
and in which they informed my son that they considered him an
artist of no mean merit. Poor people-they are harmless and
inoffensive, so much so that they even consider it a crime to kill a
flea! Their weak race is fast dying out, and after them there
will no longer be an idol temple in Europe.
I may here mention that the young Armenian gentleman
who accompanied my son, was not considered in this country a
very extraordinary linguist, and yet, although he was but twenty
years of age, he was acquainted perfectly with Armenian, Russian,
and German, fairly with English and French, and moderately
with Italian, Persian, and Turkish. He belonged to a university
in St. Petersburg.
The facility of acquiring languages possessed by almost every
•
Om
CHAP. XXVII.]
163
THE KALMUCK SETTLEMENT.
gentleman in these countries (a facility so useful where, as in the
mountains of the Caucasus and on the borders of the Black Sea,
many languages and dialects exist) seems to have descended
from the most ancient times; for it is related of Mithridates that
he was able to converse with the ambassadors of no less than
twenty-two foreign countries. This is only to be surpassed by
the case of Cardinal Mezzofanti, whom many years since I had the
honour of meeting in Rome, and who was said to be capable of
conversing in thirty-six languages.
M 2
CHAPTER XXVIII.
ASTRAKHAN.
OUR return was late at night, and at so advanced an hour we
might have had some difficulty in getting across the river, but
General Kostenkoff had kindly directed that the steamer should
be kept waiting at our disposal. This was one of the many
occasions, on which we experienced the civility of high Russian
officials in the far East.
On our landing, the watchmen in the streets stood with long
poles in one hand, while with the other they waved quickly a
small wooden bat, a stone being tied to a string fixed on it, so as
to strike cach side of it alternately. With this primitive rattle
they made a surprising noise. A few men singing and reeling
under the influence of vodka, or corn brandy (the usual liquor
drunk by the common people), staggered home, but otherwise
the ill-lighted streets were almost empty. We took some tea,
and were bold enough to eat some fish, which we were assured
was "horosha," or very good, and after that, we rolled ourselves
in our blankets and slept soundly.
While in the town, we inquired if there were here any mer-
chants from Hindostan, and were told that there had been
formerly, but about six years since the last had left. The fact
is, that formerly the trade between the south of Russia and
India was carried on overland through Persia, but owing to the
CHAP. XXVIII.]
165
ASTRAKHAN.
maladministration of that route and the great facilities afforded
by the way of the Red Sea, all Indian produce is more easily and
more cheaply procured in Russia by the latter route, or by way
of England, than by Persia and the Caspian.
We visited one of the fire-alarm towers, being taken there by
the Governor of the city, a young man of great intelligence. He
gave us an immense deal of information, not only regarding the
Volga and the Caspian, but also respecting the mountains of the
Caucasus and Daghestan, and it was from him that we received
the idea of penetrating that interesting country, hitherto almost
unknown to English travellers. For this and for his great kind-
ness and courtesy we owe him many thanks.
His description of the Salt lakes, at some distance from the
city, was very interesting, and made me regret that we were
unable to visit them. Large salt blocks lie at the bottom of the
lake, and are taken out intact and ready for use. Incredible
quantities are used for curing the sturgeon and other fish caught
in the Volga and the Caspian Sea, and the annual revenue de-
rived by the Government from the lakes, was represented at about
two millions of roubles, or nearly three hundred thousand pounds
sterling.
CC
Before leaving Astrakhan, I must mention the curious love the
inhabitants have for a tiny bird called by them a squerrett."
It is a bird of passage, wintering they say in Persia. It sings
beautifully, but they do not shut it up in cages as we should do,
but in every yard, on the top of a long pole, is erected a little
house, which I discovered to be placed there purposely for the
abode of the squerrett during his sojourn in South Russia.
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE CASPIAN SEA.
•
ON Tuesday morning, the 15th of August, we left the Hôtel
Matchloff on our way to the Caucasus. At the wharf, by the
river side, a very handsome wooden arch was being erected for
the Emperor to pass under when embarking for the Caspian Sea.
I may mention that the Emperor Alexander had determined
to visit this year his possessions in the Caucasus, attended by one
or two of his sons. It was his intention to arrive at Astrakhan at
the beginning of September, and to proceed by the Caspian Sea
to Petrolvks, from thence to visit the lofty mountains of Daghestan,
and passing through the Pass of Dariel, to visit his city of Tiflis,
and from thence by the new railway to Poti; then embarking for
Yalta, in the Crimea, to spend a few quiet weeks at the Empress's
beautiful country palace of Lavadia and his own more splendid
one of Orianda.
At noon we embarked for the Caspian Sea, on board a
comfortable barge, which was exceedingly clean, with good and
civil attendants, and excellent meals at reasonable prices.
Having been especially advised by several Russian gentlemen
on no account to travel without a pillow, we purchased at the
bazaar, before we started, two pillows of good size, and filled
with the softest eider-down feathers, for the sum of twenty-three
shillings.
CHAP. XXIX.]
167
THE CASPIAN SEA.
The journey we were about to make was by the Russians
considered a very hard one. Our project was to go by steam to
Petrolvks; thence, if possible by Daghestan, to the Dariel Pass ;
to visit Elbrutz, and probably the mineral watering-place of
Petigorze; then to Tiflis, and, if we had time, to go further south,
before our embarkation at Poti, from whence we should return
home by Odessa or Constantinople, as circumstances might point
out. The posting would probably be between eight and nine
hundred versts on rough roads, and, no doubt, in carriages
without springs; and for the commissariat we should have to
depend very much upon our own ingenuity and providence. We
therefore laid in a supply of tea, sugar, biscuits, brandy, rice,
barley, chocolate, etc., etc.; and with a small cooking apparatus,
which we had already proved in the Crimea, we hoped to do
very well. We were told that all we should obtain for days
would be black bread, eggs, and milk, and that we should
be compelled to use our diligence in purchasing fowls or
meat wherever opportunities presented themselves; and so it
proved.
Our knowledge of the Russian language was slender in-
deed; but with a slight amount of Turkish, and with a general
knowledge of travelling in wild countries, we felt no doubt what-
ever of being perfectly successful in our journey, although
unaccompanied by an interpreter.
On board the barge we made acquaintance with a most
delightful person, Colonel Michailoff, commanding the 21st
Brigade Imperial Artillery, who spared himself no pains to give
us a complete posting route, and advised us as to the best road
we should take in order to see the most interesting part of
Daghestan.
At 8 P.M. we left the wharf, towed by a very weak and
groaning tug-boat; and then the only two Englishmen in
168
[CHAP. XXIX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
Astrakhan departed.
Tea-drinking and supper-eating was the
order of the evening, for the Russians say when we have nothing
to do it is best to eat and enjoy ourselves. A happy party of
ladies were smoking their cigarettes very comfortably in the
small deck saloon. We had a large number of deck passengers,
particularly some Persian merchants, who were very nice people.
One of them, who was just starting on a journey of a thousand
miles, sat barefooted on a fine Persian mat on deck, smoking a
pipe about a foot long; a large bundle of clothes was behind
him, tied up in a Turkey mat with cord. Near him was a
Persian bag, eighteen inches square, containing his tobacco-
pouch and other necessaries. Above his head a handsome wooden
cage contained his canary bird. A store of six melons, a basin
of water and a jug, a piece of soap and a towel, completed his
baggage. His bed consisted of a thin mattrass covered with
leather, and beside him lay a large, very soft, feather pillow. He
was very civil when addressed, and ended a short conversation,
which I may observe was carried on in dumb show, by making
me a present of some very excellent tobacco. He was a second-
class passenger, but, nevertheless, was evidently a wealthy
Persian merchant. We were much struck by his method of
enticing his canary to sing, which consisted in scratching a key
under its cage against the back of a knife. This method may be
worthy of trial with our birds; with the Persian it was perfectly
successful.
At Astrakhan the Volga is two miles wide, and very deep. It
must be the largest river in Europe, and the volume of water
appeared to me greater than that of the Mississippi. From
Astrakhan it must be about forty miles to the Caspian Sea,
and this distance is yearly increasing owing to the alluvial deposit
brought down from the upper country.
The Volga has at its sixty mouths two or three hundred islands,
•
CHAP. XXIX.]
169
THE CASPIAN SEA.
in which the reedy marshes are inhabited by millions of wild
fowl, pelicans, swans, herons, and ducks innumerable; millions
of musquitoes, also, as I can certify, from having foolishly left
my cabin windows open when I had a lighted candle in my
room. Oh, how I got punished for this! Regardless of the
smothering heat, therefore, I covered my hands in a pair of socks,
and
my head in a napkin, and did my best to defy them.
On the morning of the 16th August we arrived at Berutshia
Kassar, the Wolf's peninsula, so called by the Tartars and
Kalmucks, who also surname it "Pocket-your-things," on
account of the exactions of the Russian custom-house officers.
Here some passengers disembarked; amongst others a lady,
who was superbly dressed in white cashmere beautifully worked.
I felt that she was wise to wear her smart dress, even on board
this dirty steamer; for as she was about to inhabit one of these
sandy islands at the mouth of the Volga, this was the last time,
perhaps, for some years, in which her beautiful clothes could be
seen by her own class in life, or admired by any but the wild
Tartars and Kerghis boatmen.
Here was a large number of small vessels, chiefly used in
transporting timber, (for house-building,) from the Volga, to the
various towns on the borders of the Caspian Sea, the eastern
Caucasus being entirely without trees.
The custom house officers came on board, and expended two
hours in verifying our cargo, as it was a very large and mis-
cellaneous one, consisting of cloth, furniture, cases of pencils,
seltzer water, crockery, everything, in short; for no European
goods, we were told, are as yet manufactured in the Caucasus,
and it is the policy of Russia to cause as much as possible to be
sent from Russia proper to these provinces.
Some very fine sturgeon were shown to us, weighing probably
from thirty to forty pounds each. A passenger bought a somewhat
170
[CHAP. XXIX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
smaller one for one rouble, or about two shillings and eightpence.
The sturgeons of the Caspian grow to a prodigious size; but
the Beluga attain proportions almost incredible, being said to
have been caught fifty-six feet long. In these fish a calculus is
frequently found of a considerable size. Salmon are also said to
be caught in great quantities; but the exact description I could not
ascertain. The value of this fishery amounts annually to about
fourteen millions of roubles, or two million sterling-a proof of the
enormous number of sturgeon yearly caught here. Moreover,
every fish at all undersized is cast again into the Volga.
In like profusion are the ducks, which are caught in nets, and
which, the captain of the vessel assured me, could be purchased
in the early winter for three halfpence cach. He also said that
there were a great number of pheasants in the islands of the
Volga, near this station.
The water was still very shallow, not much more than eight or
nine feet deep, so that it was necessary to proceed twenty
miles further in the barge. By noon we reached Decfutter, or
ten-foot station,. that being the depth of the water. This was
quite out in the Caspian Sea, entirely out of sight of the main-
land, the only land visible being a small island called Chitty
Bagore, or the four hillocks, which was about six miles distant.
The captain told us that in the winter the sea is frozen to a
distance of full twenty miles further out than this, where the
water begins to increase in depth to about twelve or thirteen
feet.
At Deefutter we ran alongside the steamer Kaspi, and trans-
ferred our passengers and cargo. The deck passengers, though
very numerous, yet quickly struggled into their places. Even
rich merchants do not disdain to practise this economy, for I was
shown one who resided at Petrolvks, and was said to be worth a
million of roubles, yet travelled as a deck passenger. This
CHIAP. XXIX.]
171
THE CASPIAN SEA.
gentleman was very much the worse for the quantity of vodka
he had taken.
In Russia the merchants are rated in three classes, and are
permitted to trade accordingly. The first class pay a yearly tax of
four thousand roubles, about five hundred and thirty pounds, and
they are permitted to trade throughout the world; the second class
pay one thousand five hundred roubles, or about two hundred
pounds, and these may only trade over Russia; the third class
pay only three hundred roubles, or about forty pounds, and are
only permitted to trade in their own towns. This system seems
unwise, as tending to restrict the extension of trade, which it
should be the object of the Government to encourage.
Leaving our anchorage at 7 P.M., we steered due south for
Petrolvks. We were assured, as a singular fact, that in recurring
periods of seven years the depth of the water in the Caspian Sea
varies, for seven years increasing gradually by about three feet,
and then for seven years diminishing; nor can any one give a
rational account of this strange phenomenon.
The Caspian Sea is said to be eighty-five feet lower than the
Black Sea, and its water more salt. Its greatest depth is not
more than a few hundred feet. The immense rivers, which cast
such enormous quantities of alluvial deposit into it, no doubt yearly
diminish its area and depth, and probably will, in the course of
ages, entirely fill it up.
The Caspian Sea at this point is about one hundred and sixty
miles broad. There is a wild region towards the north-east,
where the bordering lands are almost a desert, and inhabited only
by wild Turcomans. There is no trade in that direction. The
Russians penetrated for some distance into this country, taking
the opportunity of doing so in the spring of the year, because at
that time the herds of pasturage animals, which constitute the
wealth of the Turcomans, were nourishing their young, so that
172
[CHAP. XXIX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
they could not be driven into the interior of the country, and
thus the Russians were enabled to make advantageous terms with
the wild inhabitants.
Strange as it may appear, this country must have been far
more tranquil and civilised six hundred years ago than it now is,
for Marco Polo seems to have crossed from near the mouth of the
Volga to Bokhara in sixty days; yet to do so at all, at the present
time, is next to impossible.
In the north-eastern bays of the Caspian, where none but
fishermen appear to go, immense quantities of fish are taken,
especially at the mouth of the Ural river, where there is a colony
of the Don Cossacks, and near which seals are said to be very
numerous.
Lower down on the eastern shores of the Caspian there is
some idea of building a small fort, and of making a road
to Khiva and Bokhara; but the great difficulty is the want of
drinking-water, for it is said that for three hundred miles no wells
exist. But it is difficult to believe this, as it is reported that, at
some distance in the interior, there are high hills and forests of
great extent, containing trees of a considerable size. Very little,
however, appears to be known of this country; for the inhabitants
are, perhaps, the wildest and most fanatic in the world. The
Russian troops never proceed this way to their south-eastern
possessions in Central Asia, but invariably by way of Orenberg.
The night between the 16th and 17th August did not belie
the accounts which we had heard of the generally fretful state
of the Caspian Sea. The vessel rolled and pitched most un-
pleasantly, and we did not make more than six miles an hour.
The Caspian Sea is well lighted. There is a floating light near
Chitty Bagore, and another half-way to Petrolvks, and a good
lighthouse at that town; also one on the opposite or Asiatic
coast one at Derbent and at Bakou, at Leukoran, and also on
CHAP. XXIX.]
173
THE CASPIAN SEA.
the island of Assumadah. An endeavour was made to persuade
the Persians to put up a lighthouse at Angelli. They made an
attempt to do this with a few poles, and placed a sort of lantern
on it; but the Persian Government, on finding that the expense
of maintaining this amounted to at least one hundred roubles, or
about fourteen pounds sterling, a year, directed that no such use-
less expenditure should be incurred, and now there is no light-
house on the Persian coast. The steamers, therefore, and all
other vessels must grope their way into this harbour as best
they can.
For many reasons we were sorry that time did not permit
us to visit Derbent or Bakou. At Derbent, I was told, is
to be seen the termination of a wall, after the fashion of the
great wall in China, which formerly divided a considerable portion
of Daghestan, reaching from near Kassi Kamook to Derbent.
Bakou, or the city of the winds, (from the account given to us
by Mr. Gereson, a resident inspector of education,) must be a
most singular place. He told us that about fourteen miles distant
from Bakou are hot springs, called "the eternal fires," which,
until a few years since, were worshipped by a Persian sect of
fire-worshippers, who have now, however, deserted the city.
In this district, wherever a small hole is dug in the earth,
naphtha immediately flows out; and when, some time since, too
large a hole was dug, the naphtha flowed in such quantities that
it could not be stopped. A concession has lately been granted to
a company to work this industry in that district, the profits of
which have already been considerable. These springs of naphtha
are not only found on the land, but they exist also in the sea;
and Mr. Gereson assured me that, upon five or six occasions, in
very calm weather, he had gone out to visit them in a boat, and
that, when the water is very smooth, the naphtha rising to the
surface is easily distinguishable from the sea-water. He had person-
174
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
[CHAP. XXIX.
ally assisted in lighting it, and it burned freely for a time in the
sea. A machine had been invented for pumping this liquid from
the sea into ships, but, from some cause unknown to him, it had
not yet been put into use. These springs appear to have been
well known to the older inhabitants of this district, for Marco
Polo relates that shiploads of oil were taken thence and trans-
mitted to different parts of Armenia and Persia. There are also
very considerable springs on the island of Svatoi, near Bakou,
and again on the island of Chel-li-Ken, south of Krasnouvolsk,
inhabited by Turcomans, on the eastern side of the Caspian Sea.
I may here mention that three steamers regularly traverse the
Caspian, from March until the end of October, once a week,
for an
account of which I must refer to the Appendix.
I name these facts as they may be of service to future travellers,
and are not given in any guide-books that I have met with.
Krasnouvolsk is a fort which the Russians have built on the
eastern side of the Caspian. There is very little trade with the
Turcomans who inhabit this country; but as it is requisite to
supply the troops, who garrison this fort, with European stores,
munitions of war, and clothing, etc., for this purpose the steamer
which I before mentioned has been placed on this line. It is
expensive to Government, having already cost some millions of
roubles. This steamer burns coals brought from the river Don,
costing thirty roubles, or 47., per ton, but stated to possess thirty
per cent. more heating power than Newcastle coals.
CHAPTER XXX.
PETROLVKS AND TSURA.
TOWARDS the afternoon the sea became more tranquil, but yet
with a long roll, which, we were told, was of constant occurrence
in the Caspian Sea. We passed the mouth of the river Terek,
which torrent, rushing through the Pass of Dariel, adds so mate-
rially to the magnificent scenery; and arriving at the fishing
station of Sulah, we came in sight of the town of Petrolvks.
The passengers now began to show themselves on deck, for
hitherto I had been almost the only one not overcome by sea-
sickness, the rolling of the Kaspi having been incessant ever
since we had left Deefutter.
Petrolvks is in latitude 43° north. This, however, does
not give a correct indication of its climate, which is said to be
very mild in winter, the snow seldom lasting more than a fort-
night, whereas in Kertch, on the Black Sea, in the same
latitude, and not more than three hundred miles due west, we
were able in 1855 to land forty-two-pounder guns on the ice in
the bay. Of the cause of this difference in climate I could
receive no explanation. "The eternal fires" at Bakou doubt-
less indicate a subterranean heat, which may produce this effect.
The mountains to the south of Petrolvks appeared high, but those
to the south-west still higher. We gazed upon them with
176
[CHAP. XXX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
much interest as a land little known to travellers, and one which
we were most anxious to enter.
The formalities of landing were very slight, for in this military
country, directly it was ascertained that I bore the rank of a
general officer, every difficulty was removed. We were soon very
fairly lodged in a hotel kept by a retired military officer. We
heard that General Prince Mellikoff, the Governor of Daghestan,
who usually resides at the provincial capital called Temir-han-
Tsura, was at this time in Petrolvks, but was to leave on the
following morning. We therefore deemed it best to pay our
respects to him at once. He received us very kindly, and
directed one of the officers in attendance to prepare for us a
podorogna, or posting order, without which no post-horses are
permitted to be supplied in any part of Russia. We spoke to
him about visiting Guinib. He seemed surprised that we should
know anything about it, and rather recommended that we should
take the lower road under the mountains to Vladicavcas. This
we probably should have done, and thereby have missed by far
the most interesting portion of our whole tour, had we not been
pre-advised by the Governor of Astrakhan and our excellent
friend Colonel Michailoff.
Prince Mellikoff, however, said that if on our arrival at Tsura
we still desired to visit the mountains and Shamyl's last strong-
hold, he would direct that we should be supplied with Cossack
horses, on a small payment, to carry us up to Guinib. We slept
very soundly on our wooden sofas, having, however, been carefully
warned by the daughter of the landlord to see that our window-
shutters were bolted, as otherwise, she said, the mountaineers
might make an inroad upon our effects. This intimation showed
us something of the wild character of the country in which we
had arrived.
The morning of the 18th August was exceedingly hot, to make
<
CHAP. XXX.]
177
PETROLVKS AND TSURA.
up for the storm of the preceding day. Every Russian town
on the coast is provided with a good bathing establishment,
and this town was no exception to the rule. The Russians,
who perhaps, of all people in Europe, might, from their
geographical position and climate, be least expected to excel
in the art of swimming, are generally, on the contrary, great
proficients in this art, it being considered a strong point in their
gymnastic exercises.
We called upon the commandant of the town, Colonel Chob-
lo-Koff, who received us with much kindness, presenting us to
his wife, who spoke French fluently, which he unfortunately did
not. He immediately took great interest in our intended journey
into the interior. They kindly invited us to dinner, and gave us
a most excellent one, the more welcome as we had lately fared
very badly in this respect. We here also made acquaintance
with Captain Polsdoff, who spoke English with ease, and who
had married a daughter of Mr. Rice, of Tiflis, an Englishman,
who had been all his life under the protection and employment
of Prince Waronzoff.
We were much indebted to Captain Polsdoff for his kindness,
and the personal exertions and trouble that he took to assist us.
We also made acquaintance and took tea with his sister and
her charming family of handsome children. Every one must
admire Russian children. They are uncommonly well brought
up, free and affectionate, but exceedingly obedient, handsome,
robust, stout little people, independent, yet very respectful.
We visited the bazaars, which seemed prosperous; and the
town, although quite new, was evidently improving. We were
informed that a few years ago this country was very wild, and
that about three stages on the road to Vladicavcas, little more
than ten years since, both infantry and guns were required to
insure a safe passage under the mountains; but that since the
N
178
[CHAP. XXX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
surrender of Shamyl all had been altered: the mountaincers had
found their best and most profitable policy was peace; and now
at least five hundred arabas-the carts of the country-came
in every week, from the interior, with every description of
produce.
In the bazaars we found a knowledge of the Turkish language,
however slight, very useful; for it strongly resembles the Tartar
language, which is used in this neighbourhood. On leaving the
commandant's house we saw a large shed under charge of a
guard of soldiers, who, however, allowed us to enter and inspect
the imperial carriages for the use of the Emperor in the journey
through the Caucasus. They were about forty in number, and
of all descriptions, from an immense travelling coach for the
Emperor himself, of great strength and size, and fitted with
every regard to convenience, to light wagonettes for mountain
roads.
In the afternoon we made inquiries regarding our post horses
for the following day, and found that it would be impossible to
procure any, General Prince Mellikoff, with his family of
twelve children, relatives, servants, etc., etc., having already
taken thirty-two post horses, and left none behind him. With
the assistance, therefore, of Captain Polsdoff, we made an arrange-
ment to hire a tarantasse and three horses, en veturino; but it
was impossible to persuade the owner, who was to drive us himself,
to start before 8 o'clock on the following morning.
At a quarter before 8 A.M. on the the 19th August we started
on our journey through the Caucasus. The tarantasse, which
was brought to the door of our hotel, was a most curious little
carriage, something in the shape of a boat upon wheels; it had
no pretensions to springs of any kind. Beneath the scat, which
was made of stout rope network, it was well stuffed with
hay. There was no box for the coachman; but here was an
7
CHAP. XXX.]
179
PETROLVKS AND TSURA.
advantage, as there was more room for our luggage, upon which
he sat.
The Russians, from long habit, do not scruple to travel in these
carriages, and seem not to care for springs, the posting-carts in no
part of the empire being fitted with them. General Kamaroff
subsequently told me that on one occasion he was directed to
carry a despatch from Tiflis to the Emperor at St. Petersburg,
a distance, probably, of two thousand versts, or about sixteen hun-
dred miles; that he travelled the whole distance in seven and a
half days and nights in the tarantasse, changing both carriage and
horses at each station. He, however, allowed that he was nearly
dead on his arrival, and that he did not recover for some days.
We soon passed the fort of Petrolvks, and proceeded on a
new piece of road which was being made for the Emperor, who
would pass this way on his first visit to Daghestan. Every
man we now met was armed with a long dagger, and those
on horseback also carried pistols, and in some instances long
rifles also a proof that we had left behind us the civilization
of the West. We observed that each araba carried an extra
felloe and some spokes, to mend their wheels, should occasion
require it.
S
About twelve versts, or nine miles, from Petrolvks, we turned
into a mountain defile towards the south, ascending by a steep
road to the Tartar village of At-la-bou-rag, near to which a
large detachment of soldiers was stationed for the
purpose of
improving the roads. Their tents in shape exactly resembled
the old Roman tents. The scenery here was fine. We looked
through the gorge between the mountains upon the interminable.
plains towards the north, which were added to the empire by
Peter the Great. The Caspian Sea smiled brightly in the
distance; in the immediate foreground stood the village and the
tents of the troops, on the edge of a deep ravine.
T
N 2
180
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXX.
We soon crossed this ridge of hills, and bumping over the
plain beyond, at thirty-five versts from Petrolvks we came to
the town of Kafir-Kurick, situated on the margin of a very
pretty river. The castle of Schamkal-Khan was singularly
situated on an isolated rock.
This was the furthest point within the mountains to which
Peter the Great advanced after he had subjugated all the plain
country and many towns on the banks of the Caspian Sea. The
country a short distance beyond this was only conquered by
Russia twelve years since, in the reign of the present Emperor.
Near this village the primitive method of thrashing out the corn
by oxen attached to sleighs fitted with flint teeth, and of winnow-
ing it with the wind, was still in operation, thrashing and winnow-
ing machines being unknown.
At half-past one we entered the military station of Temir-
han-Tsura, generally called Tsura. This town is situated on a
small but fertile plain, and is surrounded at a distance of five or
six miles by mountains. It has now become the capital city of
Daghostan, the government having lately been changed from a
military to a civil one. It already promises to become of some
importance. There are a good many public buildings, and a
large but ugly church dominates the town. We paid our
respects again to General Prince Mellikoff, and explained to him
that we were most anxious to enter the mountains and visit
Guinib, and, if possible, to proceed from thence to Vladicavcas,
by the mountain pass. The prince directed the chief of his staff
to assist us in our arrangements, and to order Cossack native guards
to attend us, more, as was explained, for honour than for protec-
tion; but he appeared not to remember that at Petrolvks he
had told us he would also direct Cossack horses to be placed at
our disposal, on a small payment, to ride to Guinib. We then
retired to the quarters of Colonel Schxourinnsky, of the État-
11
CHAP. XXX..]
181
PETROLVKS AND TSURA.
major, who made out all the requisite arrangements, and gave
us, what was of more consequence, and as we subsequently found
of more value, a letter of introduction to General Kamaroff,
commanding the fort and district of Guinib.
It was our intention to have sent our telega, or tarantasse,
with our baggage by a circuitous but good road, in charge of a
Cossack; but on the following morning neither the coachman
nor his carriage were to be found. Fearing the dangers from
banditti in the mountains, he had started off, sacrificing the
sum of four roubles, which we owed him, rather than undertake
what he considered so dangerous a journey. We were fortu-
nate enough to secure an extra horse for our baggage, which in
the end proved the more useful plan of the two.
Colonel Schxourinnsky showed us some fine ibex heads, and
also some turoo, which had been shot near to Bodlith, a station we
should pass on our way to Vladicavcas. This determined me to
make strict inquiries as to the large game to be found there. He
placed before us a beautifully executed map of the whole country,
in which huge mountains, with numerous mountain glaciers,
were shown—an almost certain indication that there must be
chamois, ibex, and perhaps makoor to be found there, and pos-
sibly, as they have not been much disturbed, they would not be
difficult of approach. Colonel Michailoff, commandant of ar-
tillery, very kindly requested us to dine with him; and he gave
us some sauterne from Derbent, on the Caspian Sea-a good
wine, but rather strong.
Before leaving, we made some purchases in the bazaar, and
found everything remarkably cheap. We paid only five shillings
and sixpence for a pair of Persian carpet saddle-bags. We here
observed that every shop was provided with the Chinese abacus,
or counting-board, a square frame fitted with wires, upon which
small round balls are made to run freely. These they work with
182
[CHAP. XXX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
the greatest rapidity and correctness; but nothing astonishes them
more than when the sum is worked in the head and told to them
before they can finish it on their own board.
Not far from Temir-han-Tsura is the village of Gunri, birth-
place of the illustrious patriot, Shamyl, so long the defender of
his country against the inroads of the Russians.
CHAPTER XXXI.
FROM TSURA TO GUINIB.
Ar three o'clock our horses came to the hotel, rather sorry-
looking animals, especially for the price we had to pay for their
hire, namely, twenty-four roubles, or 37. 5s. Their owner was a
certain Abdul Kader, a Circassian Tartar, a clever fellow, and
a sharp hand at a bargain, for he took very good care that we
should not start until the money was paid in advance. In
charge of a. Cossack we left the town by the Derbent gate.
The place of our destination, for this night, was called Jem-
Gootai, distant from Tsura about eighteen and a half versts.
The evening was not hot, but we still wore our puggarees,
after the Indian custom, now universally adopted by all travellers
in the East; it is here called a chalma, and consists of a thick
roll of white muslin round our hats. We found to our surprise
that this caused us to be mistaken for Mahomedans, and we were
addressed as the Frank Mussulmans.
..
-
At 8 P.M. we arrived at Jem-Gootai, just in time to save our-
selves from a drenching storm of rain, accompanied by thunder
and lightning. It was dark, but our Cossack soon found the
head man of the village, who showed us into a large but entirely
unfurnished house, with most of the windows broken. We
brought our baggage in, and placed two small boxes one on the
top of the other for a table; then, obtaining the use of a samo-
184
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXI.
var, together with some black bread, eggs, and milk, and using
our small spirit-lamp, we sat down to poached eggs and tea.
Then we spread our rugs upon a very dirty floor, and, in conse-
quence of a greater absence than usual of insects, we slept pretty
soundly. The Mahomedan creed did not prevent the head man
of the village, or our Cossack, from each taking a glass of brandy.
before bidding us good-night.
On the morning of the 21st August we were up by four
o'clock, but we were kept waiting for our horses. At 5 A.M. we
were again in the saddle, and on our road for Girgibil, where we
were to spend the night. I had no cause here to complain of
my saddle, for Colonel Schxourinnsky, knowing how unpleasant the
rcal Tartar saddles are to strangers, had volunteered to lend me
one of his own-a modification of the Tartar, though not quite
Russian; it was extremely well adapted for long rides, and I felt
most grateful to him for his kindness.
Colonel Michailoff warned us that we might expect very diffe-
rent weather in the mountains from what we had been accus-
tomed to during the last three weeks, and advised us to be
prepared with our overcoats and india-rubbers, It was fortu-
nate that we had received this warning, for we had scarcely
started, when thick clouds surrounded us, and a drizzling rain
set in. The storm also of the previous evening had rendered the
roads very slippery; but the baggage being well packed, and the
load not heavy, we made very good progress. The clouds, how、
ever, entirely obscured the views which, from the glimpses we
got of them, we felt sure were very fine. The country was well
cultivated in terraces up the sides of the mountains, evidently
the work of long past ages. Every man that we met was armed
with his long Circassian dagger; the cartridges for his fire-arms
were carried in round cases sewed into the breast of his coat, in
rows of about six or eight on either side the style invariably
CHAP. XXXI.]
185
FROM TSURA TO GUINIB.
adopted in all parts of the Caucasus. Each man wore an enor-
mous papach, or cap of sheep-skin; no one would believe the
size of them—literally the whole skin of one of their small sheep
was used in each cap. Custom, however, does not seem to have
reconciled these people to this preposterous head-gear, for it is
seldom one sees any Circassian who does not frequently remove
his cap and rub his head, thereby showing its evident incon-
venience. They, however, turn it to all sorts of uses, frequently
carrying a large portion of their wardrobe in its crown, employing
it, in fact, as a small portmanteau.
In passing up the last hill before we reached the station, at
which we were to halt, in order to feed ourselves and horses, we
passed a flock of sheep with enormous tails. This race I had
frequently seen in India, where they are called Doombas; but I
had never before seen them in Europe. Their tails were prodi-
gious, containing probably five or six pounds of fat each.
About half-past nine we reached Auchkley, a small village
built on the top of an eminence. Here we found a hospitable
reception from a Tartar and his family, who lent us the use of
his best rooms, and gave us every assistance from his cooking
establishment. By making a noise like the cackling of fowl, and
drawing our finger across our throats, we readily made him
understand that we desired a pair of fowls for dinner, and, as
there were plenty about, we soon procured them. I here saw a
very curious glass jug of opaque white, apparently of old Venetian
make. How such an article could have found its way into this
Tartar village was to me somewhat difficult to comprehend.
In the afternoon we continued our route to Girgibil, leaving the
simple folk well satisfied with our visit.
On ascending the mountain, after leaving the village, a most
lovely view towards the south presented itself. Passing over this
ridge, we descended by a very steep road, and, suddenly turning
186
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXI.
a corner, we came upon a most singularly built village, called
Aimakee. The houses were constructed terrace above terrace;
the roof of the lower one forming a sort of platform at the door
of the one above it, for they all had flat roofs; they rose to a
PASS NEAR GUINIB.
..
considerable height in a narrow and hidden nook in the mountain.
Passing to the bottom of this village, we turned abruptly to the
left, into a cleft in the mountain, pursuing our course in the bed
CHAP XXXI.]
187
FROM TSURA TO GUINIB.
A tang
of a mountain torrent, which the pathway crossed probably fifty
times during our descent. Meanwhile the gorge was, in many
places, not ten feet wide, while the cliffs overhanging us were
apparently nearly a thousand feet high. We followed the wind-
ings of the stream, in this narrow gorge, for about nine versts.
During rain it is exceedingly dangerous to take this short cut,
especially on horseback; for General K told us that, when
once in, it is impossible to get out, excepting by the entrance at
Aimakee or the town of Girgibil, and that the pent-up river
sometimes suddenly (with scarcely any warning, except that of
dark clouds above) rises to a height of eighteen or twenty feet,
sweeping everything before it. It would be difficult to do justice
to the magnificence of the stupendous cliffs which overhang this
mountain path, or properly to describe the grandeur of the
scenery.
The town of Girgibil was, if possible, more singular than that
of Aimakee. It appeared to be built on a succession of mounds,
which possibly were of volcanic formation. A very civil Tartar
seemed delighted to receive us in his house, spreading some
handsome Persian rugs (which he took from a wooden bench,
here called a "sofa ") on couches and on the floor for our use,
supplying us with milk and eggs, and not very black bread, and
giving us the use of our constant friend, a samovar. The fuel
used here was tissek, or dried cows' dung. It is a very poor
substitute for coal or wood; but these are almost unknown in
this country, which, although possessing in all the valleys much
verdure, is destitute of timber.
It was with surprise and pain that we observed here, and at
other places in these mountains, that spitting of blood was very
common, from which we inferred that consumption must be of
frequent occurrence.
The morning of the 22nd August opened with alternate clouds
188
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXI.
and sunshine, adding greatly to the beauty of the scenery, and
indicating that a change had taken place in the weather. The
gardens at Girgibil were very large and luxuriant. Vines,
peaches, apples, walnuts, and mulberry trees were numerous.
We also observed some magnificent sun-flowers, and the hemp
which was grown in some small patches by the roadside was at
least seven or eight feet high.
Shortly after leaving the town, we passed by a bridge over the
river Kara-Suu, or Black River, and took then a course duc
south, up the Koi-Suu, or Village River. The Koi-Suu descended
through a rent in these magnificent mountains, in which there
were curious caverns. The scenery in this portion of the Cauca-
sus is remarkable for its immense rocks and mountain torrents.
In consequence of the rain on the previous night, our horses did
not travel very well. The Turkish horse-shoes, here universally
used, are formed of one flat plate of iron, which covers the sole
of the foot, with the exception of a small hole in the centre;
this renders it excessively difficult for a horse to retain a sure
footing either on rocks or slippery ground.
The women whom we met seldom covered their faces, but
merely turned them on one side. They generally were good-
looking. The skin beneath the eye was usually dyed dark; their
nails had received a reddish hue. They were dressed in most
gaudy colours-red, blue, and yellow. The men had a most deter-
mined and warlike appearance; they were invariably armed,
and their long flowing beards frequently were dyed bright red.
Ilaving passed through the first gorge, we came upon a
grassy plain of land, about three miles long, with a breadth of
three-quarters of a mile, possessing, I believe, every condition of
climate, &c., for a most successful tea-plantation. The soil,
we were informed, is strongly impregnated with iron. The land
itself is nearly free from stones, and numerous rivulets
CHAP. XXXI.]
189
FROM TSURA TO GUINIB.
flow through it; and, at a small expense, a canal from the
river might be formed, which would give a perpetual command
of water. There might be some difficulty at first in regard to
labour, which, however, could be readily imported. Horses and
bullocks, for agricultural purposes, are remarkably cheap. I sce
also that Mr. Freshfield speaks of a plant called Pari, resembling
the tea-plant, of which the natives on the southern side of Mount
Elbrutz make tea. It is probably a kindred plant.
We now threaded a pass where the river was narrowed in its
bed between high rocks, and where, at a comparatively small
expense, the water could be dammed up, and a water power of
immense magnitude could be formed for moving any sort of
machinery. Here we met some handsome Circassians, fully armed
-sword, rifle, dagger, pistol, and poignard. They were dressed
in their long coats and enormous caps, and their beards were
dyed red. They were mounted on shaggy, clean-looking ponics,
and had an impressive appearance. Ten years ago, before the
country was perfectly subdued, it was the habit of all the men to
move about fully armed, as above described; now, however, they
generally discontinue wearing the sword, the rifle, and the pistol;
but the long dagger is invariably still worn by all.
The women do not possess the handsome figures or features of
the men, and this may be accounted for by the abject servitude
in which they are obliged to pass their lives. To the men are
accorded the honour and responsibility of defending their homes;
upon the women devolve, not only all the household labours, but
also the greatest portion of the culture of the fields. The heavy
burdens they are compelled to carry, the exposure to the weather,
and early marriages, make them prematurely bent and old; and it
is from these causes that the noble race of the mountaineers of
Daghestan is said to be degenerating.
Previously to the conquest of this country, the men were
190
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXI.
actively employed in their military services, at every instant
ready to take up arms to defend their hills and valleys from the
incursions of the Russians; but now that this is no longer
required, it is to be hoped that they will, by degrees, take their
duc share of the agricultural and pastoral duties which pro-
perly belong to them.
We joined the large road which led to a handsome girder
bridge over the Koi-Suu; this was of iron, and covered over, with
the sides closed in and loophooled to act as a fortification, the
roof and sides being composed of thin plates of iron. This bridge
was about to be divided into five rooms, temporarily fitted with
glass windows, as the Emperor was to breakfast there on his way
to Guinib. The bridge spanned a wide chasm of immense depth,
through which the river roared in a wild torrent, adding to the
impressive grandeur of the scenery.
Leaving the iron bridge, we continued our course up the river
for about seven versts, when we crossed it by a well-built stone
bridge of a single arch, and at once began the ascent of the
mountain by a road which wound up to the fortress of Guinib.
A plummet could be held over our heads from the impending
rocks three thousand feet above us, on which the fort is built.
The road zigzagged as we gradually approached the fort, the
whole presenting the most singular and inaccessible position that
it is possible to imagine.
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE FORT OF GUINIB.
WE entered the fort of Guinib by a well-protected gateway,
and rode at once to the house occupied by General Kamaroff,
where we presented our letters of introduction. The general
received us with the utmost kindness and every hospitality, gave
us a charming little house on the parade-ground, very nicely
furnished, and prepared for us a most sumptuous dinner, which
was by no means unacceptable after the fatigues and privations
of the last few days. We here tasted some of the far-famed
Kahiti wine, and this of the finest quality, a considerable quantity
having been sent to General Kamaroff direct from the vineyard
near Tiflis to meet the wants of the Emperor and his suite.
General Kamaroff said he had an especial pleasure in receiving
Englishmen, and that he felt quite sure all animosities on either
side, which some years since might have existed, had now been
quite buried in oblivion. Moreover, he remarked that English-
men seldom came and visited them; for the only two upon his
record as having travelled into Daghestan since its occupation by
Russia, previous to the arrival of ourselves, were Colonel Cathcart
and Mr. Raason. We thought this very extraordinary at the
time, but we subsequently heard the same at Honsak and
Bodlith. Certainly the kindness and hospitality of the Russian
officers convinced us that Englishmen, but especially of my pro-
192
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXII.
A
fession, would be received with the utmost cordiality by
them.
There is no part of Daghestan so replete with interest as the
heights of Guinib. It is a huge mountain isolated from all those
around it, and about five thousand feet above the sea. It is about
five miles long by three broad, and possesses a natural castellated
wall of a gigantic type on its northern face, and on the others a
parapet of equally gigantic proportions. On all sides it has a
natural wall, the rocks being scarped directly down, in heights
varying from one thousand to one thousand five hundred feet.
It has only three possible approaches by which man can enter,
and each of these most difficult of access even where no resistance
is offered.
It was in this natural fortress that Shamyl in 1859 made his
last stand against the Russian forces. For thirty years Shamyl,
having placed himself at the head of the Circassian Tartar
tribes, had successfully defied the whole strength and power of
Russia. The cost of this long war to Russia in men and money
had been enormous. Although she had long occupied both
the Cis- and Trans-Caucasus, yet she had never been able to
subdue the intervening mountains; but in her obstinate deter-
mination to do so she had kept during these thirty years in the
Caucasus two hundred and fifty thousand soldiers, on the average.
Only thirty or forty thousand of these had been employed on the
frontiers of Turkey and of Persia; the services of more than
two hundred thousand being devoted exclusively to subjugating
the mountain tribes, and especially those of Daghestan, which
contained the strongest natural positions, and the most warlike and
fanatic tribes under the leadership of the renowned Shamyl. It
is difficult to see the exact reasons which could lead Russia to
expend such enormous sums of money and so many valuable
lives year after year in the struggle for a conquest of that, which
CHAP. XXXII.]
193
THE FORT OF GUINIB.
at best could prove but a barren acquisition; but the determina-
tion of her autocratic ruler, and of the nation generally, forbade
them to relinquish what they had once undertaken, and having
committed themselves to this policy they could not abandon it in
the sight of the numerous hordes in Asia who had been for years
watching the result. Like most mountaineers, the natives were
energetic, ardent, religious, and faithful to their trust; but, more-
over, being Mussulmans and exceedingly fanatic, they carried on
year after year this exhaustive struggle, regarding it as a religious.
war. The mountain tribes formed a sort of republic, each dis-
trict being under its own chief. Shamyl sought to give them
unity by amalgamating them under one head, which was himself;
and by the force of his character he succeeded in so doing. In
this great object he was by no means scrupulous, considering any
measure and any cruelty justifiable, where the danger to Islamism
was imminent.
For nearly thirty years he contrived to keep open his com-
munications, and invariably to get the mountaineers to assist in
his views. At length, driven from the neighbourhood of
Bodlith, with not more than three hundred followers, he obtained
permission from the head of the village to occupy Guinib on
payment, they say, of four hundred roubles. This circumstance
of the payment by Shamyl himself of a sum of money to enter a
position which was supposed to be entirely under his rule proves
the strength of the place, for it was an admission that the few
villagers who resided there could have prevented his entrance.
The Russians, having gained the information that Shamyl had
cluded them in the west, and had entered Guinib, determined
at all hazards to secure him there. A man of wonderful energy
and character, General Prince Baryatinsky had succeeded to the
supreme command in the Caucasus, and he, well knowing the
enormous advantages which would be gained by Russia by a
0
194
[CHAP. XXXII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUSASUS.
termination of the war, and the gratitude and favour which the
Emperor and his country would shower upon him if he was
successful, made the most determined efforts to ensure success.
With this view he surrounded the mountain on all sides with an
enormous force. At the weakest point, where now the fort of
Guinib has been built, Shamyl had erected a strong loopholed
wall, which still exists. The object of the Russian commander
was to draw as large a portion of the force of the enemy as
possible to one point, and with this view, in broad day, two
•battalions resolutely climbed up a mountain road to the wall.
Fully two thousand feet up did these resolute soldiers advance,
almost the whole time under a galling fire from above. Numbers
fell; yet the main body advanced until they reached the wall,
which they at once resolutely assaulted. This assault, although
successful, was purchased at a further loss, in hand-to-hand
conflict, of about two hundred of their numbers, the fanatical
Mussulmans preferring death, with Paradise, to surrender. Sword
and dagger in hand they fell upon the Russians; but the
weight of numbers prevailed, and out of the force of about two
hundred and fifty men, which Shamyl had placed there, more
than one hundred and fifty perished in this noble defence.
There is a fine picture now being exhibited in the Kensington ·
Gallery-by permission of the Emperor of Russia, painted by
Growzinski, of this assault of the fortress of Guinib.
The assault, having been made by day, produced the desired
effect of drawing almost every man of the small force which
Shamyl possessed to this point, leaving the two other passes
almost undefended. In the meanwhile, therefore, two other
bodies of men, scaling the intricate passes in the rear, entered
upon the hill; two companies under Colonel Radetsky mounted
by a path on the north, which it is almost incredible could be
ascended by any soldiers. Shamyl, now surrounded in the
CHAP. XXXII.]
195
THE FORT OF GUINIB.
village, which was in itself undefended, saw that it was im-
possible for him to do otherwise than surrender at discretion.
General Prince Baryatinsky, seating himself upon a rock, received
his brave enemy, now a prisoner of war. The stone on which
he sat has been carefully preserved, a sort of garden-house
having been built over it, and an account of the circumstance
carved upon it.
The joy of the Emperor on receiving the news of these events
can be readily understood, since by this victory, unimportant
though it was in regard to the force of the enemy, he would
probably be enabled ere long to reduce his army in the Caucasus
by one hundred thousand men. Shamyl was sent to St.
Petersburg, and a yearly pension granted him of eight thou-
sand roubles-little more than one thousand pounds sterling.
The way in which Shamyl moved about the country was
very remarkable: he was invariably accompanied by two hun-
dred horsemen, chosen Avarians; one hundred rode before and
one hundred behind, and although these men would have laid
down their lives for him, yet they never perfectly trusted him,
and on no occasion was he ever permitted to be out of their
sight. For, notwithstanding their implicit obedience, yet they
ruled, to a certain extent, independently of him, forming amongst
themselves a sort of parliamentary council.
That Shamyl perfectly understood the reason of his long
success in resisting the power of Russia is clearly shown by his
speech to Cornet Gramoff, who came to arrange the release of
some captured Russian ladies. "You say my roads are bad, and
country is impassable. It is well; I am pleased to hear you speak
as you do. Now you understand how the powerful Tsar, who
will not submit to three kings (this was at the period of the
Crimean War) can still do nothing with me, though he never
ccases to send his armies against me. I do not venture to com-
-
02
196
[CHAP. XXXII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
pare myself to these powerful sovereigns. I am Shamyl, a
common Tartar; but my bad roads, my woods, and my defiles
make me much stronger than a good many monarchs. I ought to
anoint all my trees with oil, and mix my mud with fragrant
honey, so much do they tend to the salvation of my country."
He appears to have been a man of great decision, and to have
hesitated at no cruelty when he considered his commands slighted.
It is said that having captured a large number of Russian officers,
he desired them to have no communication through means of any
artifice with their friends. One day, however, he discovered that
they had received a letter inserted in a loaf of bread; upon which
he directed that ten of them should be put to death, and his
sentence was immediately carried into execution.
Ghazi Mahomet Effendi, the eldest son of Shamyl, whom I
saw at Constantinople, is a very handsome, tall man. He has
now taken up his permanent abode there, the Emperor of Russia
granting him an annual pension of five thousand roubles, or about
eight hundred pounds sterling. His second son has taken service
in the Imperial army. Shamyl himself died last year in St.
Petersburg.
Most interesting accounts are given by the Russian officers of
the difficult and hazardous enterprises in which they had been
engaged in this war. The most disastrous of these was the utter
defeat of a column under Prince Woronzoff, who was directed
by the Emperor to make an advance into the mountains at all
hazards. This expedition was entirely unsuccessful, and nearly
the whole force perished. Shamyl in this success (a more de-
tailed account of which I shall give hereafter) took many pieces
of mountain ordnance, and also the material by which he could
make more.
Upon the parade at Guinib may now be seen sixteen brass
guns and two hundred and forty-four iron shot, taken in the
CHAP. XXXII.]
THE FORT OF GUINIB.
197
assault of Guinib-a puny armament against such a mighty power
as Russia, with her million of soldiers, but suggesting how careful
a nation should be not to get entangled in a mountain warfare
against brave men such as these, whom all the resources of this
mighty empire could not subdue in thirty years.
A singular plan was adopted by these mountaineers which
certainly deserves notice; for not only was their army the first
armed with the rifle, but they adopted a novel kind of screen, by
which they were enabled to advance upon their enemy in much
security. This was composed of tough hides backed by wool,
which they pushed before them, and which resisted most of the
Russian bullets, while it gave good cover to their marksmen. It
is remarkable that a similar screen, but of iron in place of hides,
has lately been invented to cover the advance of our engineers
and sappers, and credit claimed for it as a novel invention.
On the morning of the 23rd of August we had a most charming
ride with General Kamaroff, commanding the district of Guinib,
who kindly lent us his own horses. He first showed us the
fortress, which is very strong, and erected appropriately to the
position; thirty pieces of cannon are mounted on its walls, but,
indeed, without their aid, even if defended with musketry alone
by very moderate troops, it is quite impregnable, and as it
possesses an unlimited supply of excellent water, has large store-
houses replete with all sorts of provisions and fucl, as well as
plenty of ammunition, it is quite impossible that any force the
Tartars can collect together, should possess themselves of it.
The difficulties and cost in the erection of this fort have been
much augmented by the fact that no timber exists in these
mountains within practicable distance; every piece of wood,
therefore, used in the construction of it, or in the houses occupied
by the officers and others, is conveyed from the upper part of the
Volga, through Astrakhan, thence by the Caspian Sea to Petrolvks,
198
[CILAP. XXXII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
from which town it is sent in arabas, or country carts, by the
mountain roads, one hundred and thirty versts up this mountain,
five thousand feet above the sea.
In our ride we came to the village which sheltered Shamyl.
w
SHAMYL'S VILLAGE, GUINIB.
*
The house in which he resided was interesting, together with its
underground vault, in which he confined his prisoners,—a small
hole, into which, at one time, he thrust no less than one hundred
and forty Russian soldiers.
The view from the mountain-top was the grandest thing of the
kind that I had ever seen rugged peaks and noble rocky
mountains as far as the eye could reach, the summits of many
of them being covered with snow. Looking over the naturally
scarped cliff, we saw numerous black vultures of immense size
floating in the air a hundred feet below us. A sort of imperial
CHAP. XXXII.
199
THE FORT OF GUINIB.
SAMPING
throne had been cut in a hillock at the very edge of the rock,
on which was to be erected a scat, from which the Emperor
would be able to overlook the whole range of these majestic
mountains, so lately added to his dominions.
A large village, called Chok, was pointed out to us, which had
GELUZERAK
WWUOTEMERKER.
TARTAR HOUSE, CHOK.
SHEP DEMAN
successfully resisted a Russian attack some few years since,
and had only succumbed after the fall of Guinib. The precau-
tions of war are still in force, the soldiers when they leave
the fort being invariably fully armed, an instance of which
we observed in a party who were proceeding in the district for the
purpose of obtaining forage.
After a pleasant ride of about thirty versts we returned to the
fort, and were again entertained most hospitably by General
Kamaroff. His wife, a Georgian lady, played with a wonderful
perfection upon the pianoforte, and by her charming manner added
in no small degree to the pleasure of the evening.
C
CHAPTER XXXIII.
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
Ar an early hour of the 24th of August we left Guinib. We
proposed to reach Honsak, in the district of Avari, that afternoon
-a distance of fifty-six versts, which, in these mountains, is not
light task to accomplish in one day. But we were spared all
trouble and anxiety by the forethought of General Kamaroff, who
wrote to General Prince Nakashudjee, the commandant of Avari,
to give us all the assistance in his power; their study appeared
to be to enable us to travel with the greatest comfort and the
least expense.
A stranger in a distant mountain land cannot
but feel grateful for such kindness and attention.
Seated in a small regimental two-wheeled cart, drawn by two
stout horses, but without springs, we left the fort, and mounted
the hill to a bridge over a chasm. Here the engineers were
making repairs against the advent of the Emperor. They said
that we positively could not pass; the entire planks of the bridge
had been removed for full fifty yards. But General Kamaroff at
once told them we must, and forming a sort of impromptu
covering, they led the carriage and horses over. One wheel
went through, and one horse partly followed, but some stout
soldiers came to the rescue, and fairly carried the whole vehicle
We then proceeded up the mountain, having a view of
over.
CHAP. XXXIII.]
HONSAK AND BODLITH
201
the defences of the fort as we went out. I observed that the
traverses to the loop-holed wall were formed of loop-holed
WZXXX
WH/BOUL
603
PASS NEAR GUINIB.
musket-proof iron doors, a plan which I have never before seen
adopted. It is simple, and, unless against artillery, I
202
[CHAP. XXXIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
should say very effective, more especially for small mountain
forts.
We passed Shamyl's village, and trotted on to the last turn in
the road to which a wheeled carriage could go. The journey was
not a long one, but was the most painful we had yet had, for we
were not yet broken in to travelling in carts without springs.
Here awaited us horses lent us by the general, and also others
hired to carry our baggage.
After mounting the summit of the hill we passed out of this
natural fortress by a tunnel which the Russians had excavated
through the solid rock, fully two hundred yards in length and
twelve feet high,-on emerging from which a magnificent pano-
rama presented itself to our view. Three valleys concentrated
themselves immediately beneath us, fully 2,000 feet below. We
then followed a winding road which had been cut out of the face
of the mountain, in the sliding treacherous soil, and descended
for about twelve versts, until we arrived at the extraordinary
cleft or gorge of Karadat, where the rocks open, as if cut with a
knife, to a depth of at least five hundred feet, and not more than
ten or twelve feet wide. Through this a small stream ran, in
the bed of which we rode down.
Just before entering the gorge we passed the mouth of a coal-
pit, and although the coal appeared of very inferior quality, yet
it is valuable here, where so little fucl exists; it is sufficiently
good to be used in burning lime, and for other purposes at the
fort of Guinib. There are sure indications that good coal exists
in these mountains, which no doubt will be discovered. Jet of
excellent quality is found in large quantities. It is manufactured
into cartridge cases, which are worn on the breast, as I
have before described. It is here called gargat, and is con-
sidered more fashionable than the mounting of silver. It
takes a beautiful polish. I am informed that where jet
CHAP. XXXIII.]
203
HONSAK AND BODLITHI.
exists extensively, there is no doubt that coal is to be found
also.
We observed with pleasure bushes of sweet briar, and broke
off some branches, relishing the old familiar smell so common in
our own island, but which I had never previously met with in
this latitude.
As soon as we had passed through the cleft of Karadat, we
came upon a small plain, where by the side of the river Koi Suu
were encamped about one thousand wild Tartars. They were
assembled for the purpose of repairing the roads (a work which
is obligatory upon the inhabitants), preparatory to the arrival of
the Emperor. These men formed a rude line, habited in their
long dresses of different colours, every one with a handsome dagger
at his waist. The general inspected them, riding down the line.
Shortly before arriving at the fort of Karadat, we had a
lovely view of the grand saddle mountain, to which I would call
the attention of any artist who may travel in Daghestan.
The fort of Karadat is a strong well-built "tête de pont." It
is built of brick, and is covered with iron. It will hold about
three hundred and fifty men, and has seven
mounted in its towers.
pieces of ordnance
We left Karadat about 3 P.M., and as we had now got to the
confines of General Kamaroff's command, we bade him adieu.
We felt very grateful to him for all he had done for us, for his
kind and hospitable reception, and for the trouble which he had
taken to make our visit agreeable, and, to expedite us on our
journey with every honour.
Leaving the sub-government of Guinib, we entered that of
Avari, passing over the river Avari Koi Suu by a handsome bridge.
This river is generally impassable throughout the year except
by the bridge. Rushing with impetuosity over a rocky bed, it
forms a valuable military barrier against invasion.
204
[CHAP. XXXIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
Every battalion in the Caucasus appears to be on a war-footing,
and to each is accorded a complement of about one hundred
horses, and a proportionate number of waggons, in addition to
which the soldiers of the regiment jointly keep a considerable num-
ber of horses at their own expense. The full details of this institu-
tion I could not perfectly arrive at; but from what I learned it
appeared to me to be a useful onc, enabling the army to take
the field at a moment's notice. These horses and waggons
are attended to and driven by the soldiers, who are thus
rendered at all times capable of performing a duty so useful on
service.
We had not proceeded up the mountain more than five versts,
by an excellent road, when we met the carriage and escort
provided for us by General Prince Nakashudjee, from Honsak,
the head-quarters of his command. The escort was commanded
by a very smart intelligent young native officer, whom we after-
wards had the pleasure of meeting at dinner. We here, there-
fore, dismounted from our Tartar ponies, and entered an ex-
ceedingly comfortable, small, and strongly-built britska, which
was drawn by four horses. Always ascending, we thus continued
for about sixteen versts on our way up the mountain. The road
at places was exceedingly steep, but the horses did not jib or
flinch, and only once at the turn of the road, at the edge of a
precipice, where it was narrowed for repairs, did we encounter
any difficulty. But here the fore-feet of one of our wheel
horses were caught in the splinter bar of one of the leaders, and
the horse was thus dragged for some yards very near to the
edge of the ravine. Quickly, however, the Russian coachman,
a corporal, descended from his box, and having first extricated
the animal, then gave it a good thrashing for its stupidity.
These horses are exceedingly sagacious, and are invariably driven
without blinkers-in my opinion a sensible plan.
CHAP. XXXIII.]
205
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
+
About half way up the mountain we found a considerable
number of natives repairing the roads, preparatory, as usual, to the
arrival of the Emperor; and to encourage them at their work a
piper was playing lustily on the bagpipes. This musical instru-
ment appeared to be formed exactly like those used in Scotland.
I have remarked that mountaincers in all parts of the world
resemble each other in their habits, arms, musical instruments,
and the texture of their clothing.
We had just reached the summit of the mountain, and were
yet thirteen versts from Honsak, when night fell upon us. The
moon luckily was half-full, but the mountain became over-
clouded; thunder and lightning surrounded us. Fortunately,
however, we had passed the dangerous precipices, and our coach-
man pressing on, we reached the fort about 8 P.M., and pro-
ceeding two versts beyond this, we arrived at the residence of
Prince Nakashudjee, general of the district. Nothing could be
kinder than his reception of us. He placed at our disposal two
rooms, fitted with every comfort, and soon after a superb repast
was served up, in which London porter and the best wine of the
vineyard of Kahiti found a place.
Prince Nakashudjee is a native of Georgia. He is a most
agreeable person, possessing pleasing manners, but simple and
soldier-like in his habits. He was not very well acquainted with
French, but his medical officer, one of his guests, spoke fluently
in that language, and readily translated all that was said. The
prince is married to a Spanish lady, a daughter of General
Espinasse, but unfortunately for us, she was then absent at
Petigorse, a mountain sanatorium near Elbrutz, famed for its
mineral waters, to which I propose to advert on a future occa-
sion.
On the following morning, the 25th August, we gave ourselves
a long rest after the fatigues of the preceding days, but when
206
[CHAP. XXXIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
+
breakfast was over, I accompanied Prince Nakashudjee on a visit
to the fort of Honsak. This is entirely a new construction upon
a model which the Russians have instituted for these mountains.
This fort is well built, and possesses many valuable conditions
well adapted to this country. It has excellent flank defences; it
is not of too great an extent, and is easily defensible by a com-
paratively small force. It is built to hold about one thousand five
hundred men, upon what we should call a limited space for that
number. In my opinion, here, as in all the Russian forts in the
Caucasus, sufficient attention has not been paid to the ditches-
one of the most valuable portions of the defence of any fortified
place. This fort is armed with forty pieces of cannon; has
large store-houses, very comfortable barracks, and very good
quarters for the officers, which were being painted and papered
when I was there, showing that even in these distant parts
attention is paid to the comfort of the officers of their army.
The church was not yet built, but the ground had been laid
out, and a fine peal of bells was already erected on wooden
supports in the yard, the Russians being famous as a nation for
their ingenuity and perfection in the art of casting bells.
The great difficulty which is encountered in this district is the
want of fuel, for although the winter is never very severe, yet it
is comparatively long, fires being required for seven months.
The only fuel which they can obtain in this country is turf, to
procure which demands severe labour, and in general it is
brought from great distances. There is no wood in this part of
Daghestan, and coal in any quantity, or of good quality, as I
before said, has not been found. For timber, for building pur-
poses at Ionsak, they do not depend upon the Volga. Fir
timber is cut in the forests not far from Bodlith, about fifty
versts to the west, and is sent down the Avari Koi Suu. It is
stranded near to Karadat; it is used there as well as at IIonsak,
1
G
CHAP. XXXIII.]
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
207
but the enormous difficulties of transport over the mountains
render it inadvisable to use it at Guinib.
We next visited a most beautiful cascade of water not far dis-
tant, where the river Tabot casts itself over a rocky ledge into a
deep ravine, at least three hundred feet below. It is said that
not far below the cascade the infant Mohammedan Prince of
Honsak was by orders of Shamyl thrown over the cliff and
drowned in the surging waters of the river.
A fearful storm broke over us in the afternoon; heavy rain
descended, which on the subsequent days proved of no small
inconvenience to us on our journey, and what was of more
consequence, gave infinite labour and trouble to the natives of
the mountains by the damage done to the road, where in some
instances the labour of weeks was destroyed in a few minutes.
It caused, also, great anxiety to the general in command, in
whose districts the Emperor was about to travel. The afternoon
was spent in taking sketches of the militia Cossacks, and in a
very interesting conversation regarding this singular country
and its people. Here we were shown the sword and holy shirt
of Aboo Moslim, a Mohammedan saint, which is kept in the
Mosque of Honsak. The sword has nothing remarkable in it.
The shirt is covered entirely over with verses of the Koran,
beautifully worked in Arabic characters. This sword and shirt
were carried by the most holy fanatics attached to Shamyl on
any desperate expedition, and had a wonderful effect in inspiring
the bravery of his soldiers. Again we were most sumptuously
entertained, and in compliment to our nationality a liberal allow-
ance of bottled London porter, which here costs five and sixpence
the bottle, was again handed round.
-
On Saturday morning, the 26th of August, we started in
Prince Nakashudjee's carriage for the village of Choke, our
baggage being again sent on before us. We bade farewell to
208
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIII.
:
our kind host, who had evinced such hospitality to us since
we had crossed into his command. We afterwards found
that, knowing we were to proceed by a mountain road to
Wedden, he had sent on, fully fifty miles in advance, a tent,
dinner, and one or two servants to the edge of the lake Ai-si-
lam, or Forelli, the trout lake, so that we should find no incon-
venience from want of shelter in the highlands; for which kind-
ness we could not thank him, as we were not aware of it
when we left him.
G
The roads in Avari were much broken by the rains, occasionally
so much so as to cause us to travel close to the precipices, which
presented themselves on alternate sides, within a few inches of
the carriage wheels. Parapets to these ugly roads existed only
at rare intervals. The rider of the leaders sat on the off-
hand horse, and both he and the coachman seemed most
thoroughly to understand their business. We frequently met
Russian soldiers returning to the fort from turf-cutting in the
mountains, for in this country all these duties, such as cutting
and making hay, are performed by the troops; moreover, they arc
employed in building their own barracks, making roads, and other
works, so that to a very considerable extent the Russian soldier
is self-supporting. We passed many villages deserted by their
inhabitants, for, since the conquest of their country by the Chris-
tians, many
of the proprietors, for religious reasons, have emigrated
to Turkey, retaining an inveterate hatred of their present rulers.
Great care and forethought are used to prevent a rising of the
people, which, although it could not now possibly be successful,
yet would cause much bloodshed and trouble. One only, we
were informed, had taken place, about four years since, in the
neighbourhood of Bodlith. It, however, was very soon suppressed,
and mountain forts were erected and other measures taken to
prevent its recurrence.
CHAP. XXXIII.]
209
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
:
About one o'clock we reached Choke. This village is situated
on the banks of the river Angri Su. Here a bridge was in
course of erection, under the superintendence of a native engineer
officer. It was made of wood, on the lattice girder principle,
with the addition of two trusses in the centre, which I should
consider faulty, as not possessing sufficient strength in so vital a
part. The horses in our carriage had now, without a halt,
brought us a distance of forty-two versts, more than thirty miles,
and over roads in many places in a fearful state, on account of the
previous rain, yet they did not seem in the least tired after their
hard work. We had intended to proceed further that evening,
but were warned not to attempt this, if there should be rain in
the mountains, as there was a certain treacherous mountain torrent,
about half way from Choke to Bodlith, which was not bridged,
and in wet weather would certainly be very dangerous to ford;
the village on its banks, unfortunately, was built on the other
side, so that, if, on arriving at it, prudence should forbid our
attempting to ford it, we should have no shelter for the
night. Under these circumstances, and as the rain continued to
descend in one continuous stream, we determined to put up for
the night in Choke. Anticipating the probability of such an
event, Prince Nakasudjee had sent an order that the best rooms
in the rather poor khan of the place, should be made as clean
and comfortable as possible, that a lamb should be roasted, and
that wine, bread, and fruit should be supplied to us. In addition
to this we got eggs and milk, and turned out an omelet with
perfect success, cooking it over our small spirit lamp; we also
made very fair progress in asking for what we wanted in the
Russian and Tartar languages. We slept on our hard planks
as well as the small pests, everywhere to be found in the East,
would allow us, and rose at five A.M. on the following morning
as usual, to continue our journey to Bodlith.
P
210
TRAVELS. IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIII.
After riding about ten versts we came, near the village of
Mooroom, to the stream alluded to as likely to have impeded us had
we proceeded on the previous evening; although we had now no
difficulty in passing, yet there were evident signs that the evening
before, it had been running in torrents. At the junction of the
river below Mooroom was a singular Tartar bracket bridge. The
centre uniting the two fixed ends was constructed in the form of
a swing bridge, made with flexible wands of wood. The new
Russian road, we were now informed, had in some places been
destroyed; we were thus compelled to take the old Tartar road by
the side of the river. In the end we considered ourselves very
fortunate, as this brought us to some interesting places, which
otherwise we should not have seen. Shortly after leaving
Mooroom we passed a singular natural salt spring, from whence
Shamyl obtained the salt he required for his army, and riding
for a considerable distance on some narrow and dangerous cause-
ways, we passed a village called Khan-ce-dat, our sure-footed
ponies never making a false step. Here we procured some
excellent grapes and peaches from the gardens, which in their
character and mode of cultivation strongly resembled those in the
valleys in Cashmere. A large number of mulberry trees were,
moreover, planted by the roadside, showing that formerly silk-
worms must have been reared extensively in this locality.
Crossing over the river Oor by a Tartar bridge, we arrived
at the Lesghian village of Inkulluk. This is one of the most
curious places I have ever seen; it is partially built in caverns
in the rock, and possesses extraordinary underground streets and
houses. It is very difficult to convey a proper idea of it to the
reader. This town appeared to me to be situated in some of
the wildest scenery of the Caucasus, the inhabitants seemed
strange people; and subsequently, when I mentioned to some
Russian officers my having been there, they seemed surprised
h
CHAP. XXXIII.]
211
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
that we should have penetrated this singular defile. In this
district a curious custom is said to have existed. The son of
the Prince, soon after his birth, was carried from village to
village over the entire of his government or Khanite, and was
M
Pr
ON RIVER OOR, INKULLUK.
suckled by every woman who had a child at her breast.
This custom was supposed to be the means of establishing a
brotherhood between the Prince and his subjects.
On leaving Inkulluk we passed on horseback by a narrow
P 2
212
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIII.
foot bridge, composed of only three planks in width, over a
swiftly running stream, into which one false step would have
precipitated us, and then came in view of the old lines or fortress
within which Shamyl so long resisted the Russians. Perched on
the mountain side, behind the defences, his men, armed with the
heavy rifles in use in these mountains, and far superior to any
arm which the Russians then possessed, leisurely fired at the
advancing troops, and when by their deadly aim they caused
a panic, which was not unfrequent, then dashing from their
fortress down upon the narrow pathways beneath, sword and
dagger in hand, they quickly put to death the alarmed and dis-
organised foe.
The excitement of the sub-officer of the Militia-Cossack escort,
named Ali Galbat, was very great, as he showed us the scenes in
which he had acted a part in some of those actions, and strip-
ping up his sleeves he showed the scars of some fearful wounds
which he had received in one of those encounters on this very
spot.
My ride this day was most painful in consequence of the
Tartar saddle being excessively narrow and small, and made
with a perfectly upright peak and cantle, so that it was almost
impossible to sit upon it, which made me repent not having
brought one of my own, even at the risk of much trouble and
some considerable expense.
Shortly before we arrived at Bodlith, we again crossed the
river Angri-Su by a well-constructed and strongly fortified bridge.
About 11 A.M. we arrived at the residence of General Prince
Chaf-cha-vadsey, who commanded the entire district of the
Lesghians. He was absent on a tour of inspection, but was ex-
pected to return every moment. In the interim we were received.
with great kindness by General Prince Orbeliani, who spoke
French fluently. Exceedingly nice rooms were placed at our
CHAP. XXXIII.]
213
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
disposal, fitted up with handsomely carpeted divans, and on one
side of mine there was an English-made velvet carpet stretched
on the wall, and on this were suspended some remarkably beau-
tiful Circassian arms, such as rifles inlaid with gold, daggers,
pistols, etc.
About an hour after our arrival Prince Chaf-cha-vadsey returned
from Karadat, and welcomed us to his house in a most hospitable
manner. To our great delight, just before dinner our very kind
host of Honsak, General Prince Nakasudjee, also joined us,
having ridden upon one horse that morning from Honsak, about
sixty versts distant, and with the intention of riding the same
horse another sixty versts, namely to Wedden, on the following
morning. There is no doubt but that these Russian general
officers are very hard fellows; for although we pride ourselves on
horsemanship and endurance, yet there are not many of our
generals who would be equal to such hard work as this.
The dinner was handsomely served, and of course in the
Russian style; after which we had a most interesting conversation
regarding the Crimean war, upon which subject the Russian
officers appeared excessively fond of conversing, more especially
with one who had served through the whole of it, although I
met very few of the officers of the army of the Caucasus who
had been employed in the Crimea, for at that time they had
plenty to do in their own country. We also talked a great deal
regarding the Caucasus. Their accounts were most interesting
of the difficulties they had met with in conquering the warlike
Circassians, especially the Lesghians, in the centre of whose
country we then were.
Some curious facts were mentioned regarding the honourable.
way in which these mountaineers keep their word. In the
district of Avari there may be about fifteen assassinations
in a year, chiefly arising from quarrels among these quick-
214
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIII.
tempered men, who are very passionate, and are always armed
at least with a dagger. It not unfrequently happens that
the murderer will himself come and report his crime, having
done which, he will return home and there await his sentence,
when, if it be exile to Siberia, he will personally attend, when
required by the commandant of the district, and will then, pro-
ceeding alone, carry to Temir-han-tsura, the head-quarters of
Daghestan, his own arrest, and personally deliver himself at the
jail. Both General Kamaroff and General Prince Nakasudjee told
me that they had no hesitation in granting the request of these
men to present themselves for punishment, although they knew
their sentence would be that of exile from their dear native
mountain homes; nor had they ever known a single instance in
which the confidence they had reposed in them had been
abused.
The crime of murder, if in a quarrel, and not deliberate,
generally receives very light punishment too light, in my
opinion, being seldom more than expatriation from their villages
for a year or so. The punishments formerly in use seem to have
been barbarous and singular. It is stated that should a woman
kill the murderer of her husband, she was put, with her children,
into a deep pit for three months, and was then married again to
the first man who would marry her. No woman was formerly
permitted to remain a widow more than three months, so great
was the scarcity of the population of the mountains during the
exhaustive wars with the Russians.
Native judges are now appointed to each district, who try and
punish crimes, and award suits, according to ancient native usage
and laws. The whole of the proceedings are written in Arabic.
None of these mountaineers have any written language, but use
commonly the Arabic character. A Russian general took much
pains to endeavour to introduce the Tartar or Turkish character,
CHAP. XXXIII.]
HONSAK AND BODLITH.
215
but I am told without much success, and in my opinion happily
so, for if a new character is to be adopted, surely it would be wise
to introduce the Russian, and by slow steps to obliterate the
numerous native mountain dialects. It is stated that there are
no less than seventy different dialects in the Caucasus; many of
them are by no means derived even from the same roots, and it
would seem ccrtain that, were the European characters adopted
throughout the whole country, no ill-effect could arise which
would not equally do so should they adopt the Turkish or Persian.
The mountaineers are very fond of law. Cases have been
known in which a man has gone twice from Guinib to Tsura, a
distance of about ninety miles, upon a question of twenty copecks,
or about sevenpence of our money.
The women of this country appear to have degenerated con-
siderably since the Russian conquest. Formerly their greatest
pride was to polish their husbands' arms, and to jeer him if he
was not brave in fight; now they seem worn out by toil, de-
jected, and certainly do not possess those personal charms which
are so generally attributed by us to all the Circassian race. Old
legends attribute to Daghestan the honour of being the locality in
which, in ancient days, the Amazons flourished.
R
By the attentions which were showered upon us by General
Prince Chaf-cha-vadsey our stay at Bodlith was rendered most
agreeable, and the interest was quite surprising with which
General Prince Orbeliani translated long conversations from
French into Russian, regarding India and our conquests there,
as well as the whole system of purchase in the British army, our
Crimean campaign, and various political European questions.
Every comfort and luxury attainable was placed at our disposal—
even to Persian insect-powder being placed round our beds, to
ward off any discomfort we might meet with from insects—owing
to which our night's rest was most refreshing.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
ABOUT nine A.M. we left Bodlith. We were rather late in
starting, but in these mountains it was not too hot to ride through
the middle of the day, even in August. There was no day since
we left England more full of interest than this. The first village
which we passed through was named Mahasu: singularly enough,
the last time that I was at a village of the same name it was near
Simla, in the Himalayas, at a very pleasant party with Lord
Elgin, when he related the most interesting anecdotes regarding
his Chinese experiences.
Continuing our journey up the hill, we arrived at the mountain
village, near a camp of Russian soldiers at Tandoo. An escort of
honour, consisting of a naib, or under officer, and two men, had
been ordered to accompany us throughout Daghestan. These men
were mounted on smart little ponies, and were most picturesquely
dressed and armed; their weapons being thickly inlaid with
silver highly embossed and chased, the workmanship of which
would do credit to any of the best shops in London or Paris ;
this is entirely done by native mountaineer workmen, who
reside in a district called Kasi Koomook, the mountains of which
we now saw in the extreme distance, and especially at Koorbachi,
a strong town, situated between high mountains, apparently thirty
or forty miles south of Guinib. Its inhabitants used to call them-
CHAP. XXXIV.]
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
217
selves Franks; they are descended, it is supposed, from certain
workmen, whom the Genoese Republic, when it was in the pleni-
tude of its power, and possessed establishments on the Caspian, had
sent out to utilise the metals found in the mines. Being men of
great skill and industry, they not only kept up their own know-
ledge, but taught the native inhabitants. On the decline of the
Genoese Republic and the spread of the Turks and Tartars, these
men were shut in from the coast and lost in the mountains of the
Caucasus; but, retaining the skill of their ancestors, they kept
up both the beauty of the design and the perfection of its
execution, transmitting it to their descendants of this day.
In Shamyl's wars, he turned the skill of these mountain artists
towards the perfection of the rifle, much to the injury of Russia ;
and while Europe, with all its skilful engineers, its wealth, and
progress, was fighting its battles with the antiquated smooth bore,
these clever people were supplying Shamyl and his army with
excellent rifled firearms. It was probably these men that
Shamyl employed to cast his brass cannon, which we saw on the
parade at Guinib, and also to coin what money was current
within the territory which paid obedience to him. Having no
especial coinage of their own, they imitated with scrupulous
fidelity such foreign coins as they thought most convenient, giving
to each of them, in all integrity, the weight, size, and standard
of the original.
Most of the best workmanship in daggers and arms of all kinds
sold in Tiflis is, I was informed, purchased from Kasi Koomook,
being sent over the mountains, viâ Kahiti, the price being pro-
bably doubled by grasping Armenian shopkeepers.
This craggy range presents, apparently, all the conditions which
an ibex-hunter could desire; and although all my inquiries failed
to obtain satisfactory information on this subject, yet, from the
number of ibex horns I saw in Bodlith, and from other circum-
218
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIV.
stances, I am inclined to believe that a sportsman would be well
rewarded for his trouble and exertion in these mountains. I
do not think that stags would be found there, because there
are no wooded ranges to shelter them. The forests commence
still further to the west and south-west of Bodlith, and in them,
report says, plenty of large game is to be met with.
On reaching the summit of the pass, over the first high moun-
tain after leaving Bodlith, we saw a magnificent snowy range,
about seventy miles distant, in the direction of Kahiti, in which
they said there were plenty of Ourial or wild sheep, and also ibex.
We were here much surprised to see at least fifty Cossack
militia drawn up in line ready to receive us.
This was a very
handsome compliment on the part of General Prince Chaf-
cha-vadsey, as we had expressed a wish, if possible, to see these
Tartar horsemen, so renowned for the skill which they display on
horseback.
I was received on the edge of the mountain by the officer in
command, and rode down the line inspecting both men and
horses. The men were dressed in white or dark clothes, according
to their own pleasure, but all exactly of the same cut and form.
Their arms consisted of a rifle, sword, pistol, and long dagger;
the sword is slung from the shoulder; the rifle is carried in a
case, and is slung over the back; the pistol is always carried
exactly in the centre of the back of the horseman, and is in this
position extremely handy to one accustomed to it; and the long
dagger is ready for instant use in the girdle at his left side. The
cartridge-cases are slipped into plaits sewed in the bosom of the
coat, and the ammunition in them is fitted into beautifully
wrought cases of silver or gilt metal, jet or ivory. These horsemen
of the mountains never carry lances. Their saddles and bridles
were of the usual Tartar type, common from the east of China
as far west as the Crimea, except that the stirrup-irons were
CHAP. XXXIV.
v.]
219
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
tied loosely together under the belly of the horse-an arrangement
which I had never previously observed, but which, as we shall
presently see, very materially assisted them in their feats of
horsemanship.
Filing off from the right of the troop, one half of the horsemen
No
rapidly took position in our front, the remainder in rear.
sooner was this manœuvre completed than those in advance
broke into a wild gallop along the mountain road, and notwith-
standing its narrowness, with a deep precipice on one side, they
tore along in a close thick mélée, some standing on their saddles,
others bending under the bellies of their horses, firing and loading
their pistols and their rifles as they advanced. Arriving at some
tolerably flat ground, these wild horsemen took the opportunity
to throw their sheepskin caps into the air, and wheeling round
picked them up from the ground, leaning from their horses while
at full gallop, repeating this in consecutive wheels dozens of
times.
We were very much struck by these extraordinary feats, sur-
passing all that I had read of them in the accounts of previous
travellers. They seemed regardless of what sort of ground they
went over; stones, rugged holes, ditches, nothing seemed to
interfere with the power with which they commanded their horses,
the firmness of their grasp, or the skill they displayed at these
games. These horsemen frequently leaned over, when at full
gallop, even to pick up stones from the ground; and now became
apparent the reason of their stirrup-irons being tied together, for
the foot being firmly locked in the stirrup, the union of the one
stirrup with the other prevented the body from overbalancing, and
thus these flexible-limbed men were dragged along, as it were,
with their heads downwards. They next made pretence as if
they were defeated, and were using every endeavour to escape
from their vanquishers; when suddenly having drawn them beyond
220
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIV.
a judicious limit, they wheeled round upon their pursuers, and
became in turn the attacking party.
The Tartars are certainly wonderful horsemen, for, although
their saddles are very difficult to mount into, and their horses are
always encumbered with many bags, straps, etc., and generally,
in addition to their arms, they wear heavy coats, yet they mount
their horses, indifferently on either side, with great agility, and
never appear to tire in the saddle. In this description of horse-
manship they far excelled anything of the kind which is practised
in India; for, although in swordmanship, and certainly in the
practice with the lance, the men of Col. Probyn's and Fane's
horse, both of which were under my divisional orders in India,
would far excel them, yet in daring riding or agility the
Lesghians could not be excelled.
-
The best horses are not bred in the mountains, but are pur-
chased near the lake Karaban, near Erivan, on the frontier of
Persia, and are soon trained to mountain use. The best Tartar
saddles are purchased for about twenty roubles, or three
pounds each. Those who are accustomed to ride in them
can use no other, but to anyone else the pain they cause is ex-
cessive. Upon the saddle-tree are set two almost upright pieces
of wood, not more than twelve inches apart, a small pillow
covered with leather is placed on this, the stirrup-leather being
fixed well back; the figure, therefore, is compelled to balance
itself forward, and sits in a vice. The pain endured when
obliged to ride many consecutive hours in this machine no one
can imagine. On removing the pillow, which serves the rider for
his head at night, the saddle makes a very excellent pack-saddle
for the transport of luggage, and, from the arrangement of blankets
beneath it, the horses have seldom or never sore backs.
On arriving at a convenient dell in the mountains, near a
stream, the horsemen all dismounted; and an excellent luncheon,
CHAP. XXXIV.]
221
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
provided by the kind forethought of Prince Orbeliani, was spread
upon the grass. During its preparation mimic games were
enacted by the men, such as shooting their enemies and then
cutting their throats. But their envy seemed aroused at the
sight of my revolver, which seemed to them never to cease its
fire.
us.
I was afterwards exceedingly vexed with myself for an omis-
sion which I made in not inviting the native officer to lunch with
He was a Mahomedan, and in India it would have been
considered rather an insult than otherwise, as no Mussulman
servant will even touch the meat of a Christian. Here, however,
wiser customs prevail; and I deeply regretted that not being well
versed in them I had omitted the usual compliment which is paid
by the Russian officers towards these natives, an omission
which I am much afraid may have given annoyance to this
attentive and noble-looking native Naib.
About two P.M. we reached the Lake of Ai-si-lam, or Forelli,
the trout lake: it is about two miles long by about half a mile wide,
of a winding shape, and very beautifully situated. Having ridden
to the west end of it, we dismounted in front of a tent, which
Prince Nakasudjee had sent for our use from Honsak, about
eighty or ninety versts distant, with his servants to attend
upon us, a good dinner, bedding, etc.
I had brought from London one of Brown's spinning-devils,
which I was anxious to try in the streams and lakes of the
Caucasus. We therefore made inquiries whether we could
procure a boat, and we
were told that one had lately been
brought from Petrolvks in case his Imperial Majesty might
desire to row on the lake. This boat, however, proved to be of
such a cranky build that it was positively dangerous to be in her,
and we were obliged almost by force to keep the man who tended
it, a Russian soldier, sitting at the bottom; for so inexperienced
•
222
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIV.
was he that more than once he was within an ace of upsetting it,
and actually did so when we allowed him to move, which was
not until we were close in shore. I feel confident that his
Imperial Majesty, with the blood of Peter the Great in
his veins, will not trust himself in such a craft. Putting the
soldier-sailor on shore, we launched out into Forelli lake, and
moving parallel to the shore, for about an hour, we tried our
spinning-tackle, but whether for want of wind or on account of
an impending storm, I know not, but nothing looked at our
London devil.
We were told that sudden changes in these mountains were not
uncommon, but we were scarcely prepared, when the clouds
ominously darkened while we were on the lake, and a storm of hail
fell such as I rarely remember to have seen in my life; but I dare
not mention the size of the Caucasian hailstones beyond saying
that I mistook them for small fish jumping out of the water.
Much to the wonder of the natives, on our landing from the
boat, although our clothes were as thin as muslin, not one drop
of rain had come through them; they looked at the inside of our
cloaks, and could scarcely believe their senses when they found
them perfectly dry, while with their woollen coats they were
drenched to the skin. Our well-made thin Macintoshes quite
astonished them; but their consternation at my air pillow knew
no bounds, and when I had shown them the way it was filled, they
one after another played it as a sort of bagpipe for a considerable
portion of the evening.
We shared our dinner with our Naib or native officer. He
was a most charming old man, of the name of Ogli-Ghirik, from
the district of Angessi. He was most attentive to us during the
two days he attended us. These mountaineers, though bigoted
Mussulmans, are not very particular about ceremonies, and
will eat out of the same dish as a Christian; nay, more, if
CHAP. XXXIV.]
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
223
none of their companions are looking, will drink a little fire-
water.
Night now came on.
We had been warned by Prince Orbeliani
of the dreadful cold we should certainly suffer in these mountains,
A LESGHIAN SOLDIER.
and especially by the side of the Lake Forelli. And so it proved;
for in spite of the beds and bedding which he and others of our
kind friends had sent for our use, and although I slept not only
in all my clothes, but also added my coats and cloaks, yet I have
not passed so painful a night since one in the Himalayas, where
224
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIV.
I slept near the summit of a pass thirteen thousand feet high,
where a running stream froze hard during the night. About twelve
of our guards, however, slept outside, wrapped in their cloaks.
and bashlik head-pieces, and apparently without minding the
cold at all.
·
Leaving our tent early in the morning of the 29th of August,
and taking the road to Wedden, we were glad of the sun, much
as we had endeavoured for the last two months to shun this fiery
god. Our old friend Ogli was most attentive to us, for when he
learned that two peasants with their horses, who had carried our
baggage the preceding day, had run off rather than proceed so
far from their own village, he directed one of his own Sowars to
carry all of it on his own horse. The man walked the entire
thirty versts, and his astonishment was great at our presenting
him with a couple of roubles for what to us was a really valuable
and essential service. I was this day mounted upon a very un-
pleasant horse. For the last twenty versts, although we rode by
the side of an ugly precipice, my brute shied at every stone
and stick, each time approaching fearfully near the edge, upon
the newly thrown-up earth; and notwithstanding my having been
accustomed to ride in the most dangerous paths in the Himalayas,
I own I was very uncomfortable all the morning.
It is certainly wonderful what the Russians have effected in
the shape of roads through these mountains, justly considering
them the great means of bringing about the civilization of the
country. Road-making in this country appears to have many
faults, the most obvious of which is that the retaining wall is too
upright, and frequently has no other foundation than the sliding
earth. I cannot but believe that if a clever English engineer,
thoroughly accustomed to mountain-road making, were to offer
his services in the Caucasus they would be gladly accepted, for
the money which is being expended is enormous, and much of it
CHAP. XXXIV.]
225
FROM BODLITH TO WEDDEN.
wasted from want of proper skill. The Emperor is to take this
road next month; and one hundred and eighty horses are to be
in readiness for his thirty carriages at every station; the sum of
three hundred and twenty thousand roubles, or about forty-three
thousand pounds sterling, being allotted to the expense of posting
the Imperial party during their stay in the Caucasus. Before
arriving at Wedden there is a long descent down the mountain,
from which some far-stretching defiles can be seen towards the
north-east. It was in these difficult mountain recesses that the
Russian army suffered so severely at the hands of Shamyl.
In 1852 the Emperor Nicholas wrote peremptory orders to
Prince Waronzoff to attack the Lesghians. In obedience to
this command, but against his own opinion, he advanced with
an army of about five thousand men, into the defiles, giving
orders that a convoy of provisions and munitions of war should
follow him. This convoy was attacked, and three general officers,
forty officers of inferior rank, and every single soldier were killed.
Waronzoff was left in the mountains without provisions or am-
munition. In this strait he had no resource but to cut his way
out, in which feat the sufferings of the troops were most dreadful.
An expert Circassian mountain warrior was concealed behind
every rock, not armed with the black-stocked Russian musket,
but with a deadly Circassian rifle. For some days the Russian
force made but two or three versts per day in their retreat.
General Zedlinsky told me that on one occasion he saw fourteen
men killed in their endeavour to procure a calf for food, and a
cup of water from the river could only be purchased at the risk of
life. At last the Prince, with a small remnant of followers, was
enabled to reach the plain, whence he wrote his despatch to the
Emperor, couched in these terms: "Your Imperial Majesty's
orders have been executed, and your army has perished." I
never could rightly ascertain what was the loss in this fatal
Q
226
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIV.
campaign, but it was scarcely less untoward than that of our
army in Affghanistan, in 1842. In this expedition were employed
Baron Nicolaef, now Governor of the district of Tiflis, also
General Prince Mirsky and General Zedlinsky, from all of
whom I received much kindness and attention at Tiflis.
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE FORT OF WEDDEN.
ABOUT noon we passed the site of the native village Dargi
Vedemmo, which was held for a considerable time by the eldest
son of Shamyl, and defended successfully for seven months against
the repeated attacks of the Russians. It is situated at the
entrance of a gorge of the mountains, and is about two miles
distant from the fort of Wedden, which has been named after it.
It was in this village that the Princess Chafchevadsey and the
Princess Orbeliani were detained, waiting their ransom of forty
thousand roubles, and the release of Shamyl's son. Shortly after
midday we rode into the fort, and were courteously received by
the Princess Errinsoff, in the absence of the General, her husband.
She is a native of Tiflis, is very young; and if these pages ever
meet her eye, I hope I may be pardoned if I am so personal as
to remark that she is very handsome. She possesses a charming
manner, speaks French perfectly, and kindly acted during the
evening as an interpreter to her husband.
Towards the afternoon the prince returned from his inspection,
and made us thoroughly welcome to his house. We spent a very
pleasant afternoon; the whole party seemed to take a great interest
in my son's sketch-book, which by this time was beginning to
assume quite a bulky form, and were delighted to hear the account
Q 2
228
[CHAP. XXXV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
of our progress, the whole of which we had always to go through,
beginning from our start from London.
A desire was always politely expressed to know the object
of our journey. It could not be mercantile, nor in any way re-
late to government affairs; they could scarce bring themselves
to believe that it was purely for the interest of seeing new coun-
trics; but the ladies generally terminated their inquiries by
saying, "Eh bien! les Anglais sont si originaux."
The Russian officers were especially desirous of knowing what
was the reorganisation of the English army, which was making
such a stir in the British parliament, and creating such interest
among continental nations, and whether the abolition of purchase
was not a democratic advance against our old institutions.
The whole system of our army had therefore to be explained,
inclusive of the purchase system; a difficult subject enough even
amongst English officers, and until lately quite misunderstood by
civilians in our own country. It was interesting to see the readi-
ness with which they grasped the various arguments on this
intricate subject.
After an excellent supper, in which London porter or, as I
looked upon it, the champagne of the Caucasus bore its part, we
retired to rest, having bid adieu to Princess Errinsoff, whom we
probably should not see in the morning, as we had arranged to
start very early for Vladicavcas.
The usual family habits of the Russians appear to be to rise
very late in the morning, and soon after to take tea with a simple
biscuit in their bed-rooms, but not a set-down meal as with us. At
one o'clock they dine, commencing their meal by eating, while
standing at a side table, some caviare, sardines, or other salted
provision, generally accompanied by a tiny glass of brandy, after
which they sit down to soup and meat, etc., all of which are
handed round by servants, nothing being carved upon the table;
CHAP. XXXV.]
229
THE FORT OF WEDDEN.
wine is most plentifully served round, and, towards dessert, Lon-
don porter, then all rise with the ladies. About four or five o'clock
in the afternoon, and in fact continually during the day, hot tea
is served up in tumblers, set in stands of filigree silver with sugar,
but no cream or milk. This is exceedingly refreshing, both in
very cold and very hot weather, and a taste for it is most readily
acquired. The supper is not held until about ten o'clock at night;
it is a repetition of the dinner.
As a rule the Russians keep very late hours, seldom retiring
to bed before two or three in the morning, which naturally causes
them to be late risers. Their habits may not be unsuited to the
northern climate of St. Petersburg and Moscow, but are scarcely
adapted to the trans-Caucasus, where the climate is such for the
most part of the year, as to induce persons to adopt the native
habits of rising very early, and taking a siesta during the heat of
the day.
On the morning of the 30th August we left Wedden. The
general had obtained for us the use of an officer's tarantass, and
we hired horses. The distance to Grosnia, where the road by
the base of the mountains joins that from the upper country, is
about thirty versts. We started attended by two Cossacks, and
passed through very beautiful scenery and magnificent forests, by
the side of a fine stream, until we nearly reached the fort of
Asseuri, which is twenty-two versts from Weddon.
The country on the banks of this stream was about the richest
I have ever seen; the largest and most luxuriant hops fes-
tooned the lower trees; while the wild apple-trees, hazel nuts,
vines, and hollyhocks mingling together, added to the natural
richness of the scenery.
During our journey, which was continued at a rapid rate, our
Cossack Tartar guards were relieved every five or six miles by
others who were in stations by the road-side. At cach of these
230
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXV.
posts a stage is erected about twenty feet high, either on high
poles or in trees. It is reached by a ladder, and carefully shel-
tered from the sun. From these the Cossacks watch every one
who approaches, and the relieving escort are always mounted and
ready to start, however fast the traveller may be proceeding.
We now passed some fine-looking country for shooting, and
indeed subsequent inquiries induce me to believe that the best
sport in the Caucasus is to be met with in this district.
We were now well out of Lesghia and Daghestan, and in the
district of the Checkengis. We here struck into the main posting
road in the plains, which joins Petrolvks on the Caspian Sea to
the central town of Vladicavcas, which commands the great pass
of Dariel through the centre of this stupendous range of mountains.
In visiting Daghestan we had made a divergence from the
usual beaten track, but it proved the most interesting portion of
our whole trip. Although this magnificent country is not very
distant from England, no travellers from our shores think of
prolonging their summer tours in this direction; but now that
I have shown the facilities of reaching it, and travelling in it,
and the hospitality we received, I feel sure that many
excursionists who may by chance see these lines will follow our
example, and will not regret that they have done so. To the
geologist and the botanist new fields are open, which would
well repay their labours; and for the artist the stupendous
rocky scenery, wild and grand in the extreme, has no equal in
the world. To us, Daghestan was, but a few weeks since, a terra
incognita, surrounded by mysterious difficulties, respecting which
no information could be obtained; but determination and perseve-
rance overcame them all, and if we have opened a door by which
others may enter, or shown another field for the summer excur-
sion of the long vacation, it will add to the pleasure which we
ourselves derived from our tour,
CHAP. XXXV.]
231
THE FORT OF WEDDEN.
About 4 P.M. we arrived at Grosnia. Having passed through
the town, we made our way to the house of the Commandant. I
sent in my card, and also, as I imagined, my letter of" conduite,”
in order that it might be seen who we were. After some deten-
tion I was shown into the house, and met Colonel Grosman, the
Commandant, who spoke little or no French. He seemed greatly
puzzled by the papers I had sent in; he, however, requested us
to proceed into another room, where we found a gentleman who
was ill on his bed, but who spoke German, and from him my
son, who spoke a little of that language, learned that Colonel
Grosman could make nothing of the papers I had sent in. We
then discovered that in our ignorance of the Russian language
we had given in the passport of the coachman who ran away from
us at Tsura, instead of our own letters. I now produced my
Foreign Office passport and other credentials. They laughed
heartily over the error which I had committed, and we at
once destroyed the coachman's papers, lest it might occur
again.
Colonel Grosman only followed the example of all whom we
had met by offering us every hospitality in his power. We, how-
ever, were tired and travel worn, and considered it best to proceed
at once to the hotel.
Not long after our arrival there, the Police Master presented
himself to take our wishes as to our proceeding on our journey,
and also Lieutenant Waldemar Dimitrioff had been directed by
the Commandant to attend us, on account of his knowledge of
French and English. At first we had thought of starting that
night, but having been informed that we should meet with some
detention at the next station for want of horses, we thought it
better to remain at Grosnia. In the sequel we much regretted
our decision, as it proved the cause of many detentions on the
following day; and although by the special attention of the master
:
232
[CHAP. XXXV.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
of the hotel I slept on his own bed, yet I had no rest during the
whole night from the attacks of the numerous little tormenting
companions which he left to enjoy my company.
At six the next morning we were up and waiting for the
pericordinia, or open cart, which had been provided for us. At
seven it arrived at the door, and although we had stipulated and
paid a small sum to secure no change of carriages, as far as
Nasam, one stage from Vladicavcas, yet the driver informed us
that he had received orders to turn us out of this carriage at the
next stage. We therefore proceeded at once to the master of
the post, who declared that the carriage could not go the whole
distance. We showed him our receipt, in which, however, the
bargain we had made was not inserted. This had evidently been
done either through deceit or negligence, and it was fortunate we
discovered it. We then threatened to appeal at once to the
Commandant, when, seeing we were determined, he gave way
and consented to place his signature to the document, giving the
orders we wished. This detention delayed us an hour.
Before proceeding we purchased about three pounds of beautiful
black grapes in the market for the sum of four copecks, or 14d.
in English money. The market, in general, seemed well supplied,
and at prices exceedingly moderate. The best meat was less
than 3d. per pound, wild boar and venison equally cheap,
pheasants 1s. the pair, partridges 9d., and wild duck 44d., and
bread about 2d. the four-pound loaf.
The driving of the post-boys is apparently most reckless, and
yet they seldom get into any difficulties. In crossing the market-
place at a most furious pace, the half-broken horses being mad
with the noise of the whip, we ran over a pig, the driver
grinning at the dexterity with which he could do this without
upsetting the Telega. I may here mention that the Checkongies
stop their horses by the same noise (phurr-phurr) which is used
CHAP. XXXV.]
233
THE FORT OF WEDDEN.
for that purpose by the Tartars, and universally in Ireland,
but never by the Lesghians.
Before leaving Grosnia we made inquiries as to the general
state of the country and the conduct of the inhabitants im-
mediately below the mountains; from which, a few years since,
parties of mountaineers would suddenly emerge, rob and plunder,
and dash back to their fastnesses, into which no one could pursue
them. We were informed, by an officer stationed there, that now
robberies on the highway seldom occurred, but that they had not
entirely ceased, for even during the last month, three men had
been shot by the camp sentries while they were attempting to
steal the regimental horses at the station.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS.
SOON after leaving Grosnia, a succession of tumuli, evidently
very ancient, came in view on either side of the road. They
closely resembled those which are so numerous at Kertch in
the Crimea, and which when opened have so well rewarded
the searches of the antiquary; none of these, however, seem to
have been disturbed.
On reaching the first station, Al-han-yurt, we saw some
beautiful heads of the royal stag, but the owners did not seem to
prize them much, for they demanded only five shillings each for
them, a proof that they must be common. We also saw a fine
skin of a brown bear, another proof to the sportsman that large
game of the first class cannot be uncommon here. These stag
heads appeared quite as large as any we had killed in the
Himalayas, and very much larger than any I had seen in Scot-
land, and were from the genuine royal stag. On leaving Al-han-
yurt our route lay over an open plain of grass, with low cultivated
hills and brushwood interspersed with marshy ground, while at a
distance of about five miles were lowish mountains covered with
timber, the whole country bearing the peculiar stamp of being
well suited to large game. This country would be perfect for
the Indian sport of pig-sticking, but this has not yet been in-
CHAP. XXXVI.] FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS.
235
troduced. It abounds with wild boars, and, indeed, the pigs
which we saw in the villages, from their wicked appearance, long
snouts, and dark hairy backs, showed that they belong far more
to the wild species, than to their fat chubby relatives in China.
There was a good deal of rain falling in the mountains, which
foreboded bad weather for some days; and so it proved, much to
our discomfort. This indicated the end of the hot summer
season, after which this country is blessed with an autumn which
in no part of the world can be surpassed, and which, in fact, is
the true time to seize upon for travelling through it. Near
each village hundreds of natives were employed in clearing
weeds and grass off the roads, which, however, consisted of
nothing more than a track through the plain.
The Russian settlers appear here to have intermingled with
the natives, which certainly will tend towards improving the
personal appearance of their offspring, the Russians being coarse-
featured in a degree scarcely credible, whereas the Circassians
are generally very handsome men.
Not far from the neighbouring town of Sa-mark-ki I was told
that there is a village called Mick-hai-lof, the vicinity of which
is considered to be the best sporting-ground in this part of the
country. Deer, bears, and wild boar are said to abound there.
The look of this country promises everything an ardent sports-
man could desire.
The usual cost of posting in a common pericordinia, taking
all the different items into account, may be reckoned at about
fourteen roubles for one hundred versts-i.e., 21. for seventy-
five miles, or about 6d. per mile. In private carriages, especially
if with springs, the charge is augmented, because, in consequence
of these carriages being heavier, the postmaster generally orders
more horses to be taken, the decision regarding the number of
horses resting with him. A courier padarogna, or posting order,
236
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXVI.
gives authority to the traveller to insist on no detention what-
ever; but this is only given to high government officers, to
couriers, or in consideration of the payment of double the usual
posting price.
I must now explain of what kind are the post-chaises of Russia.
At every station in the whole of this immense Empire may be
found small open carts, called pericordinias. They are strong
little vehicles, rather small, and entirely without springs. Into
this the sturdy Russian traveller, sometimes with a little hay in
the bottom, frequently without, flings himself, and travels for
days and nights, apparently feeling no fatigue, and quite regard-
less of the horrid jolting for want of springs. Sometimes, but
with great difficulty, a telega, or carriage set upon long wooden
poles, which, to a small extent, act as springs, may be procured,
which renders the journey slightly less unendurable than in the
pericordinia. A carriage with springs, a sort of berlin, may
sometimes be procured in the large towns, but for this an extra
sum is demanded-more than double the usual charge. The
orders of the Postmaster-General require that these post-carts
should be changed at each station or stage, and as it is essential
to those who cannot bear the shaking of these springless carts to
have cords woven into a sort of network to sit or recline on,
I recommend the traveller to use his utmost influence with the
authorities of the town from which he starts, to obtain permission
to select a good telega, and to take it to the farthest limit of his
journey. There will generally be great objections, but if he
perseveres it will be conceded; and when this is done, a paper
should be obtained, stating this fact, otherwise the master of the
post-house at the next station will treat the word of the traveller
with small respect, and turn him out of his telega. In our case
we owe much additional comfort to having taken the precaution
to secure this before starting.
;
CHAP. XXXVI.] FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS.
Continuing our journey towards Vladicavcas, we passed some
military stations, and wherever such was the case, in the
middle of the square or other convenient situation, we invariably
found a gymnasium erected, for the use of the troops as well as
of the young men of the station. These are not finished in the
same expensive way in which we think it requisite to crect them.
in our schools of instruction; for instead of costing thousands, as
with us, they here only cost a few pounds, and yet they possess
all the essential and suitable requisites which I have been ac-
customed to see in our own; and whereas we only have them in
some few large and central stations, the Russians possess them in
every small town where three or four companies of soldiers are
quartered.
We came in the afternoon to the village of Troy-e-taya,
opposite to which is a natural fortress of considerable size,
the most curious I ever saw, with ravelins and bastions
apparently in regular order, and seemingly executed with much
skill. But for its being commanded by higher ground in its
rear, this natural configuration might be mistaken for the work
of man.
237
Shortly before reaching Nasaan we passed through the most
prosperous-looking native Tartar village we had yet seen. It
was in the neatest order, which will, no doubt, give great pleasure
to the discriminating eyes of the Emperor. The last twenty-six.
versts into Vladicavcas were extremely unpleasant. It was dark,
and the weather was rainy, blowing, and very cold, the road also
very rough, and we were heartily glad at nine in the evening to
pass the triumphal arch, which was being erected in honour of
the Emperor, at the entrance of the town.
We fortunately selected the best and most convenient hotel in
the town-the Club House-where we met with every attention
and civility, and where the charges were very moderate, especially
238
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXVI.
when it is remembered that the present exceptional circumstance
of the great influx of strangers to meet his Imperial Majesty
might have been taken advantage of, greatly to augment them.
The hotel was entirely full; but here, as in many large Russian
hotels, there was a strangers' room, common to all travellers, and
free of charge, which on this occasion was unoccupied, and at our
sole disposal. Running our chance of more visitors arriving, we
were only too glad to occupy two of the wooden sofas in this
room, and after supper to lie down as usual on our hard board,
which, by this time, we had become altogether accustomed to, as
we had only had two or three regular beds since leaving Odessa,
more than a month previously.
On Friday, the 1st of September, about the time when hundreds
of partridges were being bagged in Norfolk, we were astir. The
weather was awfully wet, the streets one mass of mud; but we
were compelled to exert ourselves, as we understood that in con-
sequence of the expected arrival of his Imperial Highness the
Grand Duke Michael, the Governor-General of the Caucasus, on
his way from Tiflis to Petrolvks, to meet his brother the Emperor,
an order had been given, that, as he and his suite would require
all the post-horses on the road, private individuals could not
proceed after twelve o'clock on this day. If, therefore, we did
not start before that hour, we might be compelled to remain in
this town for some days. We paid our respects to General
Mellikoff, governor of the district, who received us most kindly,
and said that unless superior orders had been sent from Tiflis,
which he had no reason to anticipate, all our wishes in regard
to post-horses should be accorded, and every facility afforded us.
Like all the general officers whom we met in command in the
Caucasus, we found General Mellikoff a comparatively young
man in the full vigour of health and strength, and evidently a
most intelligent officer.
G
CHAP. XXXVI.]
239
FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS.
We drove through the town, visiting the palace in which the
Emperor was to reside. We saw some of the preparations for
doing him honour; these were to cost the citizens twelve thousand
roubles, to be defrayed by a house tax, but the said citizens
were determined to reimburse themselves for this by charging
strangers the sum of fifteen or twenty roubles per night for their
beds during the time the Emperor might be there. We called
also upon Mr. Upton, who is especially employed by his
Imperial Majesty as architect. He is a son of Mr. Upton the
Englishman who was so long in the Emperor's service, and who
erected the magnificent works at Sebastopol, the docks, water
course, etc., which were destroyed by the allied armies in 1855.
Mr. Upton had resided many years at Petigorse, about two
hundred versts distant, where exist the far-famed natural mineral
springs of the Caucasus. Every description of mineral water is
said to be found in that neighbourhood, in excellence at least
equal to those of any of the springs in Germany or in France. It
is stated by the Russians as a fact, that none which have been dis-
covered in Europe, are wanting in this favoured locality, and the
cures performed by them are said to be almost miraculous; but
although they have not fallen off in repute, yet they are not so much
visited as formerly, owing partly to the facilities which are now
accorded to the Russians to visit the gayer watering-places in
Germany, a permission formerly very difficult to obtain from
the Emperor, and partly to the diminished revenues of the
nobility since the emancipation of the serfs. I regretted extremely
that we had not time to visit Petigorse, as it is so celebrated
throughout Russia. We should also have much liked to have
gone further into the mountains, in the direction of Elbrutz, the
queen of the Caucasus, which is 18,493 feet high, a full and
interesting account of which is given in the valuable and engaging
work lately published by Mr. Freshfield. We should have liked
240
[CHAP. XXXVI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
also to have visited the Kisti, that singular race of people who
inhabit the mountains to the south of Vladicavcas, and who are
said to have possessed in ancient times the virtues of hos-
pitality in so high a degree, that their usages even commanded
them to resign in favour of strangers the most sacred of
domestic rights. In the mountain ranges of their country I am
persuaded that very fine stalking of the large game of the forests
must exist.
Before twelve o'clock an aide-de-camp from General Mellikoff
paid his respects to us at the Club House. He had received direc-
tions that we should be provided with every document and order
requisite to give us facilities in travelling, and allowed to select
the tarantass which we thought the most convenient in the post
house, and that this should be placed at our disposal for the whole
journey; moreover, that an especial letter should be written to
direct every attention to be paid to us on the road.
We were
very grateful for the consideration shown to us by General
Mellikoff, who also expressed his regret that we could not stay to
sec some reviews, which were to take place about a week after-
wards in a camp not many miles distant.
The public room, which we were still compelled to occupy, was
now shared by a Swiss officer and his family.
a Swiss officer and his family. He appeared
much put out with his journey of two days from Petigorse with
his young children, and more especially from being detained for
want of horses, and compelled to share the common room in the
hotel, which was certainly very disagreeable for a lady. In a
friendly but somewhat excited way he expressed his surprise at
our travelling for pleasure and amusement in such a country.
He asked us if we had not comfortable houses at home, or if we
had cross wives, or any other domestic affliction, that we should
be so mad as to seek discomforts here; but when we assured him
that coming for pleasure alone, we felt well repaid for our
CHAP. XXXVI.]
FROM GROSNIA TO VLADICAVCAS.
241
trouble, he said the English were incorrigible,-that we were
accused of being eccentric; but, "Mon Dieu, excuse me," he
added, "to leave England and eat black bread in the Caucasus,
that is nothing short of madness." There is no doubt that the
love of adventure, of seeing foreign and distant countries, and of
sporting which is ingrained in our nation, is seldom understood
or appreciated by foreigners, and is very frequently attributed
by them to some hidden motive which they cannot divine, or to
madness.
When at Odessa we met a gentlemanly Frenchman, who was
describing his travels in the gulf of Finland. He said that by
far the most extraordinary thing he met with, was a company of
Englishmen, who, dressed in flannel knickerbockers and red
shirts, were living in tents on the banks of a river, their whole
amusement consisting in thrashing the water with long rods, and
when they succeeded, which they continually did, in catching
a huge salmon, all they did was scrupulously to weigh it,
and immediately to give it away to the poor people. These
men, he said, were evidently well off; then why, he added, live
this vagabond life, when all the pleasures of Paris were open to
them? We were told by Viscount Figanière that when he
had expressed his intention of leaving St. Petersburg on his
journey south, he was told, "You will meet with nothing but dirt
and discomfort; you had much better stay in your comfortable
home."
Availing ourselves of the permission granted, we carefully
selected a tarantass, or covered pericordinia, which we caused
to be carefully adjusted with matting at the top and back, and
lacing many yards of rope across it for seats, we made it as com-
fortable as possible. Our trouble in sccuring and arranging it
was well repaid. The sequel will show that we took this carriage
many hundreds of versts until we relinquished it at Tiriwilly,
R
242
[CHAP. XXXVI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
on the railway to Poti. Thanking the aide-de-camp for his
attention, and sending our respects to General Mellikoff, we
mounted into our curious vehicle. Before leaving the post-
office, failing to be understood in French, in despair I tried
Hindostani, and to my astonishment a young clerk perfectly
understood me. He, however, answered me in Persian, which
I did not know.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC.
HAVING Secured a supply of tea and sugar and a few small
requisites from a shop that lay near, we started from Vladicavcas
in a downpour of rain, and drove towards the famous pass of
Dariel. Just outside the town we were stopped at a bridge by a
huge bar of wood, painted with the Russian Imperial colours, which
was balanced across the road. Fifty copecks was the toll, and
a receipt was given, which I placed with my other papers.
Vladicavcas is surrounded by high mountains; the scenery in
fine weather is said to be beautiful, but the clouds and mist pre-
vented us from realising this. About ten versts from the town,
the pass commenced to open out, and as the clouds lifted from
the lower hills, the view became very fine. The Terek river,
swollen into a torrent by the continuous rain, was rushing out of it.
We soon after reached the post station of Balta, where we were
told we must wait two hours for horses. On examination, however,
of our letters, things were materially altered, and the horses were
forthcoming at once-a practical demonstration of the value of the
papers which had been given to us. We then galloped furiously to
Lars, a station about sixteen versts up the valley, where we deter-
mined to rest for the night, in order to see the beauties of the
pass by daylight. The postmaster said we must go on at once,
as otherwise he could not furnish us with horses in the morning.
When, however, he saw our letters, he told us we were at liberty
R 2
244
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXVII.
to have horses at any hour we wished. We therefore ordered
them to be ready at 6 A.M.
The mountains on either side of this deep valley frequently
appear as if they entirely closed the pass, rearing their lofty heads
into the sky, and leaving scarce anything but a dark and dismal
cavern, through which the road winds, following the windings of
the impetuous river Terek. In the spring of the year awful
TH
200
PASS OF DARIEL.
avalanches of snow have been known suddenly to descend, sweep-
ing all before them, and destroying any unfortunate traveller that
might chance to be on the road bencath. It is even said that
CHAP. XXXVII.] PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC.
245
three or four versts of this pass have been in an instant entirely
filled with snow many yards in depth.
The post station at Lars was very large and had many rooms
in it, fitted up in the usual rough style common to the whole of
Russia. These might be made very comfortable by bringing a
light mattrass and a pillow, as all Russians do when travelling.
The samovar, plates, cups, etc., are provided at a fixed price;
eggs and milk and black bread could be procured, but everything
else was left to our own resources. In this room, as usual, ver-
min were permitted to linger at pleasure, causing a very painful
and restless night. It is certainly
It is certainly a great discredit to the
Russians, that their hotels, their stations, and their steamers
should be allowed to be overrun by these animals, which a small
amount of cleanliness would entirely banish. In this respect they
are very little superior to their much-despised neighbours the Turks
or the Kalmucks. As regards private houses, I am unable to
speak with any certainty, having had so few opportunities of test-
ing them. Again, in most of the hotels the necessary convenience
of a house is universally left in a very filthy and untidy state,
quite unfit for the meanest person to enter. Much as I admire
many qualities in the Russians, and great as was their kindness
to us, I cannot refrain from speaking the truth on this point; a
point upon which we in England are most particularly sensitive.
We had scarcely entered our room at Lars when a very friendly
Russian officer drove up to the station. He offered us refreshment
of brandy, vodsky, etc., nor was he offended with us at declining it,
but in each case he took it himself. We were astonished at the
quantity of raw spirit which he imbibed, without being in the
least intoxicated; but this indeed frequently excited our surprise
while we were in this country.
During the night there was a continued driving up of carriages,
quite like the old posting days of England, but both the carriages
246
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXVII.
and the road were very different. The Russians generally prefer
travelling by night. They make their carriages as comfortable
as possible, with beds and pillows, and for days and nights they
post on through the wide plains of their country. The habit
continues here in the Caucasus, although the roads constructed on
the edge of ravines and precipices cannot be considered very safe
during the darkness, more especially with the furious driving
universally practised by the Isvostchick or coachman.
The morning of Saturday the 2nd of September broke, pro-
vokingly, with a steady drizzling rain, and thick clouds enveloping
the mountains down to their base. We could not wait for the
chance of its clearing, but hoping it would do so, we determined
to proceed, and, if needs be, content ourselves with seeing the pass
of Dariel and the rushing Terek, although the magnificent moun-
tains, and especially the Kasbec, might be hidden from our view.
At half-past six we were again in our tarantass. This name, I
may here remark, is most appropriately derived from the dance
so called. After driving about six versts we crossed the Terek
by a wooden bridge, and, judging that no more beautiful view of
this gorge would present itself, we stopped the driver to sketch.
He waited patiently for some minutes, when he insisted that he
must go on; this was the time therefore to administer a few
copecks, forty of which, or about one shilling and fourpence,
calmod his impatience.
About half-way to Kasbec we passed the fort of Dariel, so
noted in the wars of the Russians with the mountaineers. Here an
Imperial painted bar of wood across the road barred our progress,
and a corporal demanded something, which from our ignorance
of the Russian language we could not understand. My son going
into the fort met an officer, who when he saw our letters imme-
diately gave directions that we should proceed. In the meantime,
however, it struck me that in the magnitude of this country one
CHAP. XXXVII.] PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC.
247
painted bar, although fifty versts distant from another, might
still have some affinity to it. So I routed out the paper given at
the bridge near Vladicavcas, at the sight of which the corporal
showed much delight, and opened the door free of payment.
The fort of Dariel is not large, but strongly built; it is situated
about half-way down the ravine. It is commanded on all sides
by steep mountains, up the sides of which, however, it would be
extremely difficult for an enemy to draw up cannon. It must be
a dull residence for the officers on duty.
About twelve we arrived at Kasbec station; alas! the magni-
ficent mountain was shut out from our view by tantalising clouds,
which one moment seemed inclined to clear away altogether, and
the next moment enshrouded the mountain in a deeper mantle
than ever.
We determined to remain at Kasbec for at least twenty-
four hours, in the hope that during that time we might get a
glimpse of the mountain. We chanced to be at the station door
when a Russian travelling carriage of huge proportions, and drawn
by eight horses, drove up. Some ladies were sitting outside in
front, smoking their cigarettes, and enjoying the view of the pass,
having placed their servants inside. We got into conversation,
and they were much surprised when they found us to be English-
men, who, they stated, very seldom visited this country. But their
astonishment knew no bounds when we told them we intended to
pass one day or even two in this wild glen, in the bare hope of
beholding the mountain. How eccentric, they exclaimed, that
you should prefer seeing this huge mass covered with snow to the
gay and beautiful Tiflis! We told them that probably our de-
tention would not be long, and that as there was a northerly wind
blowing, we should possibly see the mountain ere nightfall, and
after all reach Tiflis as soon as they would. Both these expecta-
tions were indeed verified; for as we watched from our window
248
[CHAP. XXXVII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
which faced the mountain, just as the moon rose, the clouds for a
few moments disappeared, and the glorious Kasbec, arrayed in
her new white mantle, appeared before us. The sight was truly
sublime; in a few minutes it was gone again. Eventually, in
consequence of the detention of post-horses for the Grand Duke
Michael, and the benefit which we derived from our letters, we
arrived in Tiflis at the same time as the gay party and their large
carriage.
The morning of the 3rd of September broke with most glorious
weather, the northerly wind having dissipated all the clouds.
The morning sun upon Mount Kasbec was the most gorgeous
sight imaginable; the mountain exactly in front of us, where
yesterday had been nothing but a deep mass of impenetrable
clouds, appeared in all its magnificence.
A sketch of this beautiful object by my son was at once
secured, lest an unhappy change of weather, by no means of rare
occurrence in these mountains, should again hide it from our
view. Kasbec is sixteen thousand five hundred and thirty-two
feet above the level of the Black Sea. This mountain is never
entirely free from snow, and it was now covered apparently one-
fourth down. The thermometer in our verandah now stood
below thirty, the rain of the previous day being frozen into ice.
A great change, when so lately it had stood in our rooms at
Sebastopol, even in the morning and evening, at ninety-four and
ninety-five.
On the previous evening we had made arrangements for
the hire of two horses to ride up the mountain as far as the
old Armenian church of Gruizin, which they said would occupy
us about two hours. They demanded for each horse a rouble,
which we agreed to pay. At six this morning they came and
said it was two roubles for each horse. I may mention that a
circumstance of this kind was by no means rare; that when we
CHAP. XXXVII.] PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC.
249
It
answer.
had made a bargain, and they had promised to fulfil it at a
certain time, when that time arrived, and they saw us in a diffi-
culty, they doubled their former demand. Now, in many coun-
tries when they see a stranger in a fix, they impose upon him; and
certainly in the British islands we are not free from this caprice;
but when a bargain is made, I have seldom found in any country
but Russia an increase made at the moment of its fulfilment.
is therefore as well that strangers should know what they are
continually liable to in this respect. Again at seven we asked
for our horses: "In half an-hour you shall have them," was the
We waited this time impatiently; the only reply we
next got to our inquiry was: "Sichas," "sichas," which, trans-
lated, is "directly," "immediately." Our previous experience led
us at once to know that the time of their arrival was now per-
fectly indefinite. Let strangers beware of the word "sichas;" it
is used upon all occasions, and at all times; but the definite
period meant to be represented by "sichas" I could never dis-
cover. Time rolled on, and we had almost given up the ascent
of the base of the Kasbec, when about ten o'clock two small
ponies arrived at the door of the station-house. We crossed the
river Terek, and then passing through a village, where we were
fiercely attacked by some enormous dogs, as large and of some-
what the same breed as those of St. Bernard, we commenced the
ascent of the mountain. In various places we saw quarries of
tolerable slate, but they were badly worked. The Tartars here,
as clsewhere, build the roofs of their houses flat, and cover them
with a coat of earth at least ten or twelve inches thick, which
they occasionally use as gardens, wherein to grow small vegeta-
bles. The Russians, however, in this as in other mountain dis-
tricts which they possess, cover their houses with plates of iron,
no doubt to prevent their being maliciously set on fire.
The inhabitants of this country are the men of Ghuiget. They
250
[CHAP. XXXVII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
arc Armenian Christians, seldom wear arms, and are more docile
than the inhabitants of the northern range of the Caucasus, who
are mostly Mohammedans. Three-quarters of an hour brought
us up to the ancient Armenian church of Gruizin. It is evidently
SVATION
CONVENT CHURCH NEAR KASBEC.
of great antiquity; it is of stone, of most picturesque architecture,
beautifully and elaborately worked in curious arabesque and
other designs. Entrance into the interior of this church was
obtained in a singular manner. Two men, who appeared in some
way to have charge of the premises, fetching a ladder from a
neighbouring building, mounted by it to the roof of the church,
and entering by one of the upper windows, unfastened from
within a very curious and massive old door, thickly studded with
CHAP. XXXVII.]
PASS OF DARIEL AND MOUNT KASBEC.
251
iron. We entered; there was nothing very particular in the
interior, excepting its evident antiquity, and a singularly beauti-
ful pair of silver doors, four feet high by three feet broad, on
which was recorded the life of our Saviour. These were certainly
of great value, and as neither the church nor the neighbouring
buildings appeared to be inhabited, could easily have been carried
away. Doubtless religious veneration protected them. Even the
money-box, which was on the exterior of the church door, was
considered quite safe.
From this ancient church not only is there a splendid view of
the mountain of Kasbec, but also of another mountain farther
west, within a few feet as high, and covered in an equal degree
with snow.
From this position we could fairly trace the way by
which Mr. Freshfield and his companions ascended the mountain,
and could fully appreciate the difficulties which they must have
encountered in that laborious adventure. Having copied the
patterns of some of the ornaments, and having taken another
sketch of Kasbec from this point of view, we again descended.
We had not reached the bottom before the glorious mountain
was again shrouded in thick clouds, and not a vestige of its
snowy summit was to be seen. We were, therefore, exceedingly
fortunate in having remained this day, for, like Mount Blanc in
Switzerland, the summit of Mount Kasbec is frequently invisible
for weeks together.
In consequence of the expected arrival of his Imperial
Highness the Grand Duke Michael this afternoon at Kasbec,
we were detained for post-horses until after he had passed,
the postmaster having been prohibited from granting them for
six hours previous to his arrival. This detention, however, in the
sequel proved of an immense advantage to us in the benefits
which we derived from an interview with the Grand Duke, which
I propose to record in the following chapter.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
Ar 4 p.m. his Imperial Highness the Grand Duke arrived in
an open britska and four, the advance of which we had watched
for the last two miles, proceeding at the furious pace adopted by
all travellers of consequence throughout Russia. His Imperial
Highness descended at the hotel, and whilst the relay of horses
was being prepared, he graciously accorded me an interview.
I was glad to have the opportunity of thanking him for all
the kindness I had received in his government, and for the
hospitality with which we had been treated, as well as for the
facilities of movement which had been at all times extended to
us during our journey. He said that he had received notice of
my intended visit to his government from General Aide-de-Camp
Kutzebut, Governor-General of Bessarabia and the Crimea, as
also from Baron Ignatief, Russian Ambassador at the Court of
the Sultan; that he had expected me to arrive as travellers
usually do, by the way of Poti, in Imeritia, and was astonished
to find me in the heart of the mountains of the Caucasus. He
was delighted, however, to see me, and desired to know where I
had been, and to what part of his government I proposed next to
proceed. He expressed his regret that the obligations I was
under to return home would prevent my being presented to the
CHAP. XXXVIII] THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
253
Emperor, and witnessing the fêtes, reviews, and receptions that
were about to take place. He was pleased to add that he regretted
he could not receive me at his country residence at Borjome, near
Suram, in consequence of his absence; but that if I should pass
by that way, on my return to Europe, he assured me of a kind
welcome and reception from the Grand Duchess. I mention
these facts as a proof of his kindness and good feeling towards
my countrymen, represented, in this case, by myself, an officer of
Her Majesty's army. I expressed my gratitude for the honour
he had done me, and my unwillingness to detain him in a
lengthened interview. He hastily took leave of me, with kind
expressions, and mounting his carriage he started at the usual
furious gallop, attended by half-a-dozen well-mounted Cossacks
flying around him at the same pace. Previous to his leaving I
saw him whisper a few words of command to one of the superior
officers of his staff, who hastily wrote a short order in pencil,
which he left with the master of the station, with directions that
it should be delivered to us immediately after his departure.
This paper being written in Russian we did not understand its
purport and value, but subsequently we found it to contain an
order directing us to have all the advantages of especial govern-
ment couriers; and, consequently, throughout the remainder of
our tour in the government of the Caucasus we always obtained
post-horses without any detention. I need not add that the
honour that he did me was entirely without solicitation on
my part; but I looked upon it as a handsome compliment to my
country and profession. The cold this evening was excessive,
as we were under the influence of the snows of Mount
Kasbec.
:
The post-boy sent with us had just brought the Grand Duke.
He was dressed in a very picturesque but singular costume: a
long brown coat and a hat curiously shaped-very like those re-
254
CHAP. XXXVIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
presented as worn by priests in the days of Queen Elizabeth—
black in colour and square at the top, with a leather belt round
his waist, curiously set round with silver buttons.
One great fault in Russian posting is the time they take in
changing horses. During the period we travelled in the Cau-
casus the most rapid change they made by day was in sixteen
minutes, and by night never under half-an-hour. So much time
is thus lost, as well as in the occasional stoppages to regulate the
harness, that, although they drive very rapidly, a rapid rate of
posting throughout is never secured.
As we had already lost some time, and our days were limited,
we considered it requisite to continue our travelling by night.
Although it was exceedingly dark, and we were not provided
with lamps, our road appeared to be passing some dangerous
precipices; but this seemed to make no difference in the rate of
driving, both the driver and the horses were well acquainted
with the way, and we went down these steep hills with swiftness
and confidence.
Near Milkhetti, once the capital of Georgia, we passed the
fourth toll-bar, paying one rouble and forty copecks, or about
four shillings. We continually passed most curious old stone
churches, most of them built after the same design as that of
Gruizin, but few so highly ornamented in their stonework. The
scenery now very much resembled that of the lower Himalayas,
very luxuriant, but wanting in the grandeur of the upper moun-
tains. The river Adaha accompanied us, rushing over its stony
bed down the pass to join the Kurr. A great deal of agricultural
labour was going on, and on several occasions I saw ploughs at
work with sixteen oxen harnessed to them. All the telegraph-
posts were of iron, English made, and strung with English wire.
The country generally appeared scorched and burned, the effect
of an unusually hot summer, showing that we were prudent in
Gath
CHAP. XXXVII.] THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
255
having chosen the northern route to enter Georgia, otherwise we
should have encountered the full force of the heat of Tiflis, which
is renowned for being the hottest city in the Russian dominions.
Whenever Tiflis is mentioned a remark is made regarding its
great heat, and this year it was considered to have exceeded its
usual high temperature. Near Milkhetti we passed some rocks
with singular chambers cut in them, which had evidently been
formerly inhabited, resembling, to a certain extent, the excavated
chambers at Inkerman, in the Crimea.
About five miles before we reached Tiflis we had a fine view of
the city. The river Kurr, a really noble river, ran through the
plain and thence into the heart of the city. We passed a number
of large waggons heavily laden with merchandise for the north,
chiefly, as I understood, the produce of Persia, carpets, etc., etc.,
for St. Petersburg. These carts were painted in bright and
flowery colours, similar to those bought in our toy-shops. The
dress of the people was gay and curious, and perfectly different
from the dress of those on the other side of the mountains.
Preparations to do honour to his Imperial Majesty appeared on
all sides. A large camp was in course of preparation, triumphal
arches were being erected, etc., etc.
Entering Tiflis we drove at once to the Hôtel de l'Europe and
secured rooms. We here found ourselves surrounded by European
comforts and even luxuries, such as we had not experienced for
many days, and the more appreciable after the hard journey which
we had undergone. At the hotel we were agreeably surprised
to meet many of those friends whose acquaintance we had made
in the earlier portion of our travels in the Crimea. They again
endeavoured to give us every assistance in their power. General
Zedlinsky, commanding a brigade of cavalry, telegraphed to
Prince Mirsky, commanding the army in the trans-Caucasus, and
also to Baron Nicolaef, to inform them that we had arrived; and
256
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXVIII.
we at once received invitations to their country houses, which
were some twelve or fourteen miles distant. Thus the attention
and hospitality which we had received on the northern side of
the Caucasus, began to be repeated on the southern side
also.
OF
什么
​T
Al
//
CHEE
TRONI
WWEEE
CORE
超
​ANOTHE
DN
TIFLIS THE CAPITAL OF GEORGIA
有
​加​起
​遠
​P
957
MIC
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE CITY OF TIFLIS.
THE city of Tiflis is of great extent, and picturesquely situated
beneath high mountains, on the banks of the beautiful and noble
Kurr. It ought to be healthy, as it stands five hundred feet
above the level of the Black Sea. But the heat is excessive in
the summer, owing to its enclosed position shutting out the
mountain breezes. It is also very cold in winter. It suffers from
the disadvantage of having little or no drinking water except
from the river, which is allowed to be polluted with all the filth
of a large city. Although meat and bread are not so dear as
with us, yet their quality is inferior, and the price of European
luxuries and articles of all kinds is so excessive, that living is as
dear in this capital as in London or Paris.
It is divided into quarters, which in their character are totally
distinct in every way. The superior quarter is inhabited by the
dominant Russians, the masters of the country. In the centre of
the city stands the grand opera-house; in the great square the
European shops, hotels, etc. From thence a very handsome
street leads past the Grand Ducal Palace to the post-office, above
which street are numerous well-built houses and public offices.
The Ducal Palace is a handsome and extensive building in the
very best part of the city; attached to it are extensive gardens,
the whole worthy of the high position held by the Governor-
U.
S
بشوید
ا
258
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XXXIX,
General of the Caucasus. The salary of the Grand Duke was
stated to be seventy thousand pounds a year. This is large, yet
by no means excessive for the duties and expenses of his high
position, and the hospitalities expected of him. It is said that he
is exceedingly generous, and expends his whole salary in his
government. In the winter season large public entertainments,
balls, and dinners follow in rapid succession. There is no one
who is not a recipient of his noble hospitality. A museum stands
opposite to the palace. The collection does the greatest credit to
the country, and to its curator, Dr. Gustave Radde; it is very
scientifically arranged. The way in which the wild animals, which
are found in the Caucasus, are grouped, deserves especial com-
mendation, and is well worthy of being copied in much more
extensive museums. Dr. Radde is a most energetic and zealous
professor, wonderfully well acquainted with everything relating to
this country.
Tiflis possesses some fine bridges, especially the one near the
statue of Prince Waronzoff, on the road leading to the German
quarter. Really when all these works are taken into considera-
tion, and the money which Russia must have expended upon this
city, and her numerous recent conquests, we are compelled to
admire her energy, and to respect her for the civilisation which
she is extending to various districts, which for many ages have
been the very centre of anarchy and rapine, while we cherish the
hope that she will wisely confine her energies to conferring upon
these wild countries the blessings of peace and prosperity, and will
not bring down upon herself just retribution by disturbing the
peace of Europe in futile attempts to increase her possessions in
such directions as, the voices of the strongest nations declare,
would be dangerous to the peace of the whole world.
The second or German quarter was formerly granted upon
building conditions to the settlers of that adventurous nation, whose
CHAP. XXXIX.]
259
THE CITY OF TIFLIS.
presence has been of such immense benefit to the progress of
Russia. By degrees they have disposed of much of their property to
the saving Armenian bankers and other wealthy natives. There is,
again, a purely Armenian quarter, where, since the conquest of
this country, they have grown rich and prosperous under a sure
and strong government. There is, also, another quarter in
which persons of all religions and avocations seem to congregate,
Jews, Turks, Persians, and Eastern strangers. Tiflis is already
a very large city, and is yearly on the increase. Its situation on
the globe is very central, and although the communications either
to it or beyond it are not yet developed, yet it is clear that in
time they must be so in the rapid march of civilisation, and that
then Tiflis will become the centre of communication, not only to
the northern part of our possessions in India, but also to the rich
country which lies to the north of the Hindoo Koosh and the
Himalayan range. These may appear to some wild theories, but
I see no reason why the wild tribes of Affghans and Turcomans
and Kerghis should not be brought to see the benefits of civilisa-
tion and commerce, nor why railroads, the great civilisers of man-
kind, should not traverse their plains and valleys as they now do
those of Europe and of India. This, however, can only be accom-
plished by European friendships, and not by jealous wars; and so
far am I from desiring to foment a Russo-phobia, which I believe
common sense is now crying down, that I consider the advances
of that nation into Central Asia are likely to benefit mankind,
and certainly not least so our own nation.
The value of property in this city appears also to augment in
proportion to the city itself. Houses and building lots are worth
double, and in some cases fifty-fold, what they were worth a few
years since. The stability of the government has created such a
sense of security, that I am assured that a square yard of land
in the city, which only a few years ago was worth about three
$ 2
260
[CHAP. XXXIX.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
roubles, now frequently sells for one hundred. Many of the
superior shops and establishments are German, while a good
many are French; but not a single English firm appears to
have been sufficiently adventurous to compete in this field. This
is the more surprising as so large a quantity of English goods are
required, and are imported into this city, which leads me to think
that there is a good opening for any of our fellow-countrymen
who desire to take advantage of it. M. Hervieu, the corre-
spondent of Messrs. Coutts, appears to be doing a large amount of
business, more especially in Parisian modiste articles. They
informed me that we were the only Englishmen who had this
year travelled in the Caucasus.
Tiflis is not fortified. On its north side, are very extensive
arsenals, in which almost all the guns, ammunition, harness, and
clothing required by the troops in the Caucasus are manufactured;
no coal is used, but charcoal only. Even in the last century
Tiflis was noted for its excellence in the manufacture of gun-
powder. In the city are some interesting shops, generally kept
by Armenians, a cunning set, who invariably ask three times as
much as they at last consent to take. They sell many very beau-
tifully worked articles in silver and gold, especially the ornamented
Circassian belts, which are in great repute in Russia; also small
turquoises which they offer in great profusion and at small prices.
The river Kurr or Kuran, which runs through the city, is a noble
and rapid stream. It rises in the mountains on the Turkish frontier,
not very distant from the fort of Alexandropol, and is said to
produce very fine large salmon, which are caught in the spring
season. I was told that they may be freely taken with a live
bait, and that the best place for this sport was some miles above
the city; but I confess that I did not consider what I heard per-
fectly reliable.
The public phaëtons in this town cannot be surpassed by any
CHAP. XXXIX.]
261
THE CITY OF TIFLIS.
city in Europe. They are well and tastefully built, and almost
universally well horsed; the coachmen are as well dressed as
private servants, reflecting great credit upon the authorities who
have charge of this department.
I desire to call the especial attention of strangers to the Survey
Department of the Etat Major, where maps of this country on all
scales can be purchased at very reasonable prices. Their accuracy
is surprising, considering the mountainous character of the country,
and their execution does great credit to the topographical depart-
ment of the army. The city was in a great state of excitement,
preparing for the intended visit of the Emperor; for although his
declared intention was to remain but three days, yet such was
the awe and respect that his presence inspired, that nothing which
could do him honour was neglected. A camp of 15,000 men was
being formed. A palace was being prepared in which to lodge a
brother of the Shah of Persia, who was deputed to pay his re-
spects to him. Every one of consequence in the country made a
point of being present in the capital on this occasion. The
Patriarch of the Armenian church, the head of the Greek, and
of the Roman, etc., etc., were all to be there to do him honour
and reverence.
We paid our respects to the governor of the district, Orloffsky.
We found him full of kindness, with a most winning manner.
He gave us every information relative to the routes in the south,
and towards the Persian frontier, whither we were now pro-
ceeding.
CHAPTER XL.
GEORGIA.
K
HAVING, as I said before, been invited to visit General Prince
Mirsky, commanding the Russian army in the Trans-Caucasus, at
his country residence at Kajori, we hired a very well-appointed
phaëton with four horses for the two days, for which, inclusive of
driver and every other expense, we were to pay the sum of six-
teen roubles, or about 21. 2s. 6d. We left in the afternoon, in
company with Major General Zedlinsky, commanding the cavalry
brigade. Young Prince Sheervasedjee, aide-de-camp to Baron
Nicolaef, the governor of the province, had called upon us in the
morning, and expressed to us the satisfaction which it would give
the governor, if we would visit him at Betanghi, the country-seat
at which he was then residing, situated about seven versts beyond
Kajori.
The road from the city of Tiflis was one continued but well-
graduated ascent, for the entire distance of about fifteen versts.
Kajori stands at an elevation of four thousand four hundred and
fifty feet above the level of the Black Sea, and therefore very
nearly four thousand feet above the city of Tiflis. This will
readily account for the difference of climate, which was very per-
ceptible, although the distance between the two places is not great
We arrived at Kajori about one o'clock, and were at once pre-
❤1
CHAP. XL.]
263
GEORGIA.
sented to all the members of Prince Mirsky's family. It appeared
to us as if we were entering an English family, so much did their
manners and customs resemble our own. Prince Mirsky's only son
is most agreeable and intelligent. Both he and his sisters speak
English in perfection, but otherwise French was, as usual, the
medium of conversation. The leading people of Russia are now
bringing up their families very much according to English prin-
ciples, under English tutors and governesses, and laying aside
that system of French education which for some years past has
been in vogue in that country. They assert that they already
see the benefits arising from this course, in the improved general
morality of society; and it is to be hoped that this is not a mere
compliment. They especially illustrate this by pointing to the
light English literature and comparing it with the French. They
justly observe that the English works are the more amusing,
while at the same time they tend to encourage rather than sub-
vert morality.
General Prince Mirsky appeared a very young man for the
high command which he held over an army of more than two
hundred thousand soldiers, a position only second to that of the
Grand Duke Michael himself. Early in life he was placed by
Prince Waronzoff on his staff, and accompanied him upon many
of the desperate engagements with Shamyl, and to this, as well
as to his talents and agreeable manners and great tact, he justly
owes his rapid elevation. The pay of this high position appeared
very small and incommensurate with the expenditure which it
must entail, being only two thousand pounds per annum; but
fortunately there are other means of rewarding successful generals
in this wide-spreading country, but such as have not been in
vogue with us since the days of Cromwell, viz., by gifts of for-
feited estates, of which kind of property there yet exists a con-
siderable amount in the hands of the government. Some years
264
[CHAP. XL.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
since Prince Mirsky was presented with an estate near Kutais,
which then paid the government about eight hundred roubles per
annum, but which has so increased in value that last year it
paid to Prince Mirsky about twenty thousand. These are lasting
rewards which our general officers can now seldom dream of.
The subject of the abolition of purchase in our army, as well
as its reorganisation, had created as much interest on the southern
side of the Caucasus, as it had in the north, and I was requested
again to explain it in all its bearings, such as have long since been
well known to military men, though so little understood by people
in general, or until lately by the members of the House of Com-
mons; but the subject will no doubt now receive due considera-
tion, as for some years to come it will make itself felt by increased
taxation.
It was very interesting to discuss the state of the Caucasus
during our war with Russia. We certainly at that time had no
idea of the dangerous position which they were in in this country,
and from which they only relieved themselves by sheer determi-
nation and bravery. Shamyl was then (1854) in full force in
Daghestan, and fully occupying the army in the north, and indeed
on all sides of the mountains. In Georgia, and on the confines of
Persia and Turkey, the Mohammedan population were ready to
rise, assisted by their co-religionists over the borders. The
Bashi-Bazooks were already in the field, advancing from the
Turkish states, plundering and murdering as they went in their
daily forays. To meet all these difficulties the Russians are reported
to have had but ten thousand available men in the south; but
putting a bold face on the matter, they promptly attacked the
Turkish army near Alhalkalaky, and after a most obstinate
engagement they defeated them. This was the turning point.
The Turks were besieged in Kars. Those Mussulmans who were
friendly to the Turkish cause saw their danger, and the Caucasian
CHAP. XL.]
GEORGIA.
265
provinces were safe; for although Omar Pasha landed an army
at Sukum Kali, yet so great was the mismanagement of this
expedition, so unfortunate the choice of the landing-place, and so
untoward the result, that the Russians soon saw they had nothing
to fear from that quarter. How different, however, might have
been the fate of that country had we lent our assistance at an
earlier stage on this side of the Black Sea, by sending an army
into Asia, landing it at Trebizonde, advancing by Erzeroum and
Kars, and attacking the Russians near their fort at Alexandropol,
in which we could have compelled them to remain, while we
brought a hornets' nest about their ears in Tiflis and the whole
country from Poti to Batoom! moreover we should have been
assisted by tens of thousands of fanatical Mussulmans; for the
mountaineers in the most warlike parts, such as Daghestan, arc
universally Mohammedan. However, on the whole, I believe
it to be for the best that this did not take place, for, on our
retirement from this country, had we given it to the Turks, a
stagnation in all improvement would have followed; and if we
had endeavoured to retain it ourselves, a constant state of un-
easiness, if not actual strife, would have been produced between
us and Russia, from which the worst of consequences to the whole
world would have resulted.
ind
We were received most hospitably, and dined in company with
General Zedlinsky, who with Prince Mirsky, and also Baron
Nicolaef, were present when Prince Waronzoff's army were
driven out of the mountains near Wedden, and almost annihi-
lated.
In the afternoon we walked to the hill above Kajori, from
which we had a splendid view of the whole range of the Eastern
Caucasus, including the magnificent Kasbec, and, passing from
thence along the range by Kahiti, on the slopes of those moun-
tains which divide the Trans-Caucasus from Daghestan. There is
266
[CHAP. XL.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
a curious old fort at Kajori, the former residence of a bandit
chief.
After breakfast, on the following morning, we bade adieu to
this charming family, who had received us strangers with so
much kindness, and on Friday, the 8th September, we drove on
to visit Baron Nicolaef, at Betanghi. We passed over some un-
cultivated ridges until we reached the edge of the mountains,
when we rapidly descended through a beautiful beech forest, very
similar to those which may be met with in parts of Kent, but of
much greater extent: passing which we drove up to a pleasant
country-house in a lovely garden. This estate was purchased
some years since by the baron, he having been attracted by the
ruined but ancient gardens within it, which he has done wonders
to bring to their former fruitful condition. The estate contains
about fifteen hundred acres of land, the greatest portion of which
is forest. There are some curious old buildings, the remains of
Georgian churches, on the property, in one of which there is the
sculptured figure of a female, supposed to be that of Kamora,
the Queen of Imeritia and Georgia. There is but little doubt
that this country was thickly inhabited in former years, traces of
which are still found in the fruit trees in the forest.
An iron foundry has been instituted not far distant: the work
which they have executed has done them great credit, and is
very low in price. A handsome garden-seat, after a European
model, being cast at the expense of 11. 7s. There are also farms,
at which they manufacture cheese, in imitation of Gruyère, which
are quite equal to the genuine Swiss ones.
Having expressed to Baron Nicolaef an intention of proceeding
south, he gave us every information respecting that country,
the road to Erivan, Mount Ararat, and Alexandropol. He both
telegraphed and wrote to the authorities of all the places which
we were likely to visit, requesting them to show us every attention
CHAP. XL.]
GEORGIA.
267
and assistance, which proved of the utmost advantage to us: indeed,
without this, or the order of the Grand Duke, we afterwards
clearly saw, we should have had many difficulties and detentions.
Having spent a most interesting day at Betanghi with Baron
Nicolaef, who speaks the English language fluently, we left in
sufficient time to reach the bottom of the mountain and enter the
city of Tiflis before nightfall. The distance was considerable,
but with the light carriage, and our four smart horses we soon
reached the top of the hill, from whence rattling through Kajori,
by 7 P.M., we were set down at the Hôtel de l'Europe, after an
interesting excursion of two days. This hotel was by far the
best we had met with since we had quitted Pesth, on the 21st of
June, affording all the comforts, civility, and good cooking of a
European establishment, and very moderate in its charges.
I was sorry that before leaving Tiflis we could not visit the
town and vineyards of Kahiti, whence the wine so famed over the
Caucasus is procured. It is both red and white, and somewhat
resembles Burgundy. It appears to have a good sound body and
flavour, but, to my taste, it is raw and unmade; and, although
on more than one occasion I drank some from the store set aside
for the Emperor, yet I could not but consider it very inferior to
the wines of France and Germany.
The best red Kahiti which we drunk was at Guinib; and the
best white wine, in my opinion, at the Convent of Etchmiazin,
near Ararat. A good deal of wine is made throughout the
Caucasus. It is all consumed in the country, for the Armenians
as well as the Russians are very fond indeed of their bottle: in
fact, there is a story of a certain Prince Chafchevadsey-of which
name, I may mention, there are a great many princes-who was
in the habit of emptying five bottles of wine into one flagon, and
drinking them at a meal. I have no doubt but that the wine of
Kahiti is manufactured into imitations of the wines of France
268
[CHAP. XL.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
and Spain, and also that a great deal of brandy is made in the
Caucasus and also in the Crimea. Although the sherry and the
Madeira sold in Tiflis are very inferior, and the port perfectly
undrinkable, yet the imitation of Cognac brandy is by no means
unsuccessful, though very inferior to the genuine article for which
it is generally sold. It is worthy of notice that the Kahiti wine
was known to the Romans.
Kahiti is connected with one of the most interesting anecdotes
of the war with Shamyl, who, about the year 1856, accom-
panied by about one hundred horsemen, crossed secretly over the
snowy range which divides it from Lesghia, and hid himself and
his men near a Russian camp in the neighbourhood of Kahiti.
At this time the families of the Princes Chafchevadsey and
Orbeliani, consisting of their princesses, their daughters, and
others, were near the camp. In the dead of the night some of
Shamyl's most trusted officers, with about twenty followers,
stealthily passing the line of sentries, entered the tents of the
ladies, whom they seized, lifted them on to their horses, and
succeeded in making their way out of the camp, with these prin-.
cesses, their daughters, French governess, and all; and this so
silently, and so quickly, that the heavy, sleepy Russian guards
only woke up to discover what had been done. Pursuit was
quite in vain; by morning the whole party had reached the
summit of the mountains, and entered Shamyl's territory, and,
within a few days, were transported into the very heart of Lesghia,
to Dargi Vedemmo, and placed under the protection of some
of the principal officers of Shamyl's court, whose attentions to
some of these ladies are said to have been of so gallant a nature
that, on their return to the lower country, maternal cares
were imposed upon them;-how far this may be true, I cannot
say. Long negotiations were set on foot for their release, which
was only eventually accomplished by the payment of 40,000
CHAP. XL.]
269
GEORGIA.
roubles, and the permission to return to Circassia granted to a
younger son of Shamyl, who was being educated at St. Petersburg,
but who not long after died in the mountains, possibly from his
inability to encounter the hardships of a life to which he had long
been unaccustomed. I understood that the husband of Princess
Chafchevadsey was a son of the last King of Georgia,-
George XIII.,-who, feeling how tottering his throne was, and
how incapable of being sustained in its integrity, bequeathed the
sovereignty of his country to the Emperor Paul of Russia.
Kahiti, from its lying somewhat exposed to the sudden in-
cursions of the wary mountaineers, was always a source of anxiety
to the Russians, and numerous expeditions were undertaken from
thence, in one of which fell the husband of Madame La Baronne.
Julie Wrewsky, whose acquaintance I made in the Crimea, as
already related. The internal dissensions of the Georgian nobles
caused the downfall of the country. This was, perhaps, the best
thing that could happen for the ultimate benefit of the inhabitants,
a weak and poor government being replaced by a strong, though,
perhaps, a somewhat despotic one. The nobles themselves,
although somewhat of their own consequence has been absorbed,
are now in a far better position than formerly; and although
they have lost their native sovereign, whose regal descent, it was
said, was proved by each child being born with the royal eagle
marked on its shoulder, yet stability in the government of the
people and a general improvement in their country may com-
pensate them for any loss of dignity they may have undergone
in the absorption of their nation into that of their more powerful
neighbour.
Many of the Georgian women are extremely handsome.
Before marriage every endeavour is made to keep their waists
as thin as possible. This is done by a girdle, which, as they
incrcase in stature, is occasionally removed, when quite insupport-
270
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XL.
able, but which is immediately replaced, after being only very
slightly enlarged. By which means, the bosom being largely
developed, a corresponding increase of admiration in this country
is produced. It is said that this belt was formerly never removed
until the nuptial day, and then only by the dagger of the bride-
groom. Many such ancient customs, which have become obsolete
in the neighbourhood of the capital, are still extant in the moun-
tains and the distant country. It was chicfly from Georgia that
the Turks used to procure the inmates of their harems; and the
Persians and Mussulmans from the North of India are also said
to have made constant requisitions upon the trans-Caucasus for
this object, paying fabulous prices, even up to 20,000 piastres,
for one of these beautiful women. Consequently the Georgian
stock is most largely disseminated throughout all these Mahometan
countries. This source of reinvigoration to the Mussulman race
may now be considered as closed, which leads many to predict
that the degeneracy of races in Persia, Turkey, and Egypt will
increase with rapid strides. To this cause may be traced much
of the hatred of the Mussulmans towards the Russians, whose
victorious advances have put an end to the voluptuous indulgences
which, for so many centuries, the Mahommedans have enjoyed.
CHAPTER XLI.
TIFLIS TO ERIVAN.
In the afternoon of Saturday, the 9th September, we again
mounted into our old friend, the tarantasse. We purchased a
supply of bread, etc., and also some wine, in which we were
thoroughly cheated, and were obliged to throw it away as soon as
our basket was opened. Our destination was now Erivan, for
which we had received every document and letter which could be of
service to us. Mr. Woolwich, the Consul-General of Turkey, had
also written letters to Osman Pasha at Kars, so that if we should be
able to visit that place we might meet with an agreeable reception;
but next to the small dispatch in pencil written by order of the
Grand Duke, we found that a very large document, with an im-
mense red wax scal and signed by Baron Nicolaef, was all power-
ful, and acted as a talisman to all our wishes. We made our way
through the city by the side of the river Kuron to the outskirts
of Tiflis. Here we met a large number of carts and Persian
waggons loaded with fruit and merchandise, such as cotton, silk,
carpets, and tobacco. This Persian trade is fostered by the
Russian Government with much care and assiduity, for I was
informed that goods are allowed to pass in from Persia duty free,
as an inducement to bring then by this route rather than by that
of Trebizonde or through Turkey. We observed that every one
272
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLI.
of these convoys, not excepting even the waggons containing only
water-melons, had a guard of mounted Cossacks armed with rifle,
pistol, sword, etc., etc. We had been furnished with an order
for guards, and had been warned that it was not safe to travel
without them; and had been recommended not to travel at all after
dark, especially near the frontier of Persia. We therefore
thought it better to pass the night at the second stage, at
Talrugda. Subsequently, however, we determined to take our
chance of robbers rather than stop for the night at inconvenient
places, and as we met with no adventures from robbers, we had
no cause to regret our determination. However, on the following
morning we requested the attendance of two Cossacks, which was
at once granted, as a matter of course, the necessity of which
became apparent when we saw every traveller we met thus
escorted. To the mail cart, indeed, was attached a guard of
three heavily armed men, in addition to the courier, who was
bristling with pistols, and we found that every one of these
soldiers had their rifles carefully loaded, ready at a moment's
call, for we were told that highway robberies in this direction
were by no means unfrequent.
The native drivers we found far more sharp-witted and more
quick at understanding us than the Russians. Only on one
occasion had we much difficulty, which was occasioned by the
absence of the post-office official and the inability of the man left
in charge to read the orders of Baron Nicolaef. In all countries.
alike, I have found that the lower a man's position in society the
more tyrannical he becomes when placed in power. Shortly
before we turned due south and quitted the Kuron, that river
was joined by the Aleylka, over which we passed by a narrow
stone bridge of ancient construction. Many of the villages here-
abouts consist of houses constructed entirely under ground, a
hole being left in the earth to enter by. The summer heat
CHAP. XLI.]
273
TIFLIS TO ERIVAN.
P
renders this plan very convenient. A fine new road was in
course of construction to Erivan, which will prove of great ad-
vantage, for, doubtless, when the railway from Poti is completed,
trade will be greatly increased in this direction also.
The country was here sterile, but towards Orguntalon the land
became of better quality, and cultivation increased, corn and
other cereals being produced on an extensive scale. IIere first
we came across a long string of camels-ships of the desert-
they were wending their weary way in the direction of the East,
and, seen from a distance, their regularity of pace and correct
formation made us mistake them for a troop of cavalry. We now
entered some beautifully wooded mountain scenery, the road
winding by the side of a swift-running stream. Here we saw a
beautiful fountain, built of white marble with an inscription upon.
it, evidently of ancient date, and in this shady glen the cool
running water was most agreeable, after the hot drive we had had
over the open plain.
At nightfall we reached the Lake Gotcha, a very considerable
piece of water, being 40 versts long and averaging 18 broad.
An Armenian convent stands on the island, which is annually
visited by the Patriarch from Etchmiazin,. and is renowned for its
hospitalities to strangers. This lake is said to produce large
quantities of fine trout, very much resembling salmon. We pur-
chased two, about five pounds weight each; these had been salted
and dried in the sun, and they resembled in all respects, inclusive
of colour, the very best kippered salmon of Scotland, being cured
exactly in the same way. This fish cost us about 4d. per pound,
which here was considered excessively dear. I have no doubt
excellent trout-fishing could be had in this lake, but no salmon, as
I do not think there is any communication between Lake Gotcha
and the sea. I very much regretted that we could not remain
for some days at Elianofskia, a flourishing Russian settlement on
T
-
274
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
[CHAP. XLI.
its banks, where the station-house appeared better than usual,
and the post-master and others were very civil.
The lake of Gotcha is said to be four thousand feet above the
Black Sea. Some considerable Russian settlements have been
made on its banks, amongst which I may mention that of Tchou-
bouklou, as being apparently very flourishing. Leaving Elianof-
skia, the road was made entirely of pieces of lava, which for miles
was seen cropping up in all directions; as also an endless quantity
of flint, which was so much fused as to resemble masses of
glass when melted in the furnace-evident signs of the volcanic
character of the region. Husbandry hereabouts was carried on
in the rudest manner.
The wheels of the carts were composed of
one solid block of wood. Winnowing the corn was entirely done
by throwing it in the air with a wooden spade, and in lieu of a
threshing-machine they used the primitive sledge, the bottom of
which was set with rows of sharp-pointed flints, suggesting the
idea that many of the flint arrow-heads which are found in
Europe and America, and are supposed to have been manufac-
tured for warlike purposes, may, on the contrary, have been no
other than the flint teeth with which their threshing-sledges were
shod.
We had been travelling all night, and at six A.M. we caught
sight of Mount Ararat, then about sixty-five miles distant. The
morning was bright and clear, and this noble mountain, entirely
disconnected with any range, rose out of the plain in all its
majesty. Not a single cloud rested on its snow-covered head,
upon which the morning sun was reflected with brilliant white-
ness. Although we were subsequently for nearly a week within
sight of this splendid mountain, yet on no other occasion did we
see its summit entirely free from clouds. Mount Ararat is about
17,122 feet high, and although from the fact of no other moun-
tains being near, one might imagine it would impress the mind
-
CHAP. XLI.]
275
TIFLIS TO ERIVAN.
with a greater idea of its immense height, yet such is not the
fact, and although it is 1,362 feet higher than Mount Blanc,
which is 15,760, yet by reason of its peculiar form it does not
appear to be anything like so lofty.
The Cossacks that now attended us appeared to be a sort of
light Persian horsemen, very skilful in their arms and in their
horsemanship, in which respect they somewhat resembled, but by
no means equalled, the Lesghians. They appeared to pride them-
selves upon their activity with the sword; rushing madly to the
front and flanks, they flourished this weapon in circles around
them, making feint to attack an enemy, whereas the Lesghians
depend more upon their rifle, and at close quarters on their trusty
dagger. These Tartars were very quick at understanding our
wishes, yet we found the Turkish and even Hindostani language
of much scrvice, the latter containing many Persian words.
T 2
CHAPTER XLII.
ERIVAN.
ON Monday, the 11th September, after passing over fifteen
versts of the roughest new-made road, pounding over boulders as
big as hat-boxes, our tarantass rattled into the ancient Persian
city of Erivan, now in the hands of the Czar of all the Russias.
An officer, of whom we inquired where we could obtain a lodging,
turned out to be the chief officer of police, and one to whom
especial directions to show us every attention had been given by
the governor, who had gone to Tiflis. He at once mounted a
beautiful white Arab charger, with grand and showy action, and
taking us under his charge, directed the driver to follow him.
We passed through many streets, halting at length in a fine
square, at a large house, at the door of which were two sentries;
here we were invited to alight. The officer of police could not
speak one word of French, and we were at a loss to know if so
much comfort as we saw around us was intended for our use; but
an Armenian gentleman very soon came in, who explained that
the governor of the city was absent, but previous to his departure
he had left word that we should be lodged in his own apartments
in the government house, and that meals should be supplied to us,
for which no recompense should be received during the time it
might please us to remain in Erivan. Such kindness as this
could not be surpassed, but will show what an English officer may
CHAP. XLII.]
277
ERIVAN.
expect when travelling in this country. We were immediately
served with hot tea, after which an immense tray of the most
inviting fruits was presented to us, consisting of magnificent
grapes, peaches, pomegranates, apples, and melons. But the
gentleman who interpreted for us warned us to be careful in
regard to eating much of the fruit, though from previous
experience such a caution was scarcely needed. After we were
somewhat refreshed, two well-appointed phaëtons were brought to
the door, and, accompanied by the acting governor and Major
Bellofsky (the latter of whom spoke French perfectly), we drove
to the citadel. It had undergone very little or no reparation
since it had been taken from the Persians in 1828; the walls,
though somewhat dilapidated and faced with mud, are yet better
than they appear.
The old palace is curious and handsome. The council-chamber
of Zanga Shah is very highly ornamented, in the Persian style;
it consists of a room raised five feet above the level of the court-
yard, but with the whole side, which overlooks the court, con-
structed to be so completely removable, that the room seems to
open into the court itself. An immense heavy drop curtain is
so fixed as to be lowered or raised at pleasure by cords, two pillars
supporting the roof on that side. The interior of the room is highly
painted and gilt; blue and yellow are the predominant colours ; im-
possible flowers, with symmetrical leaves, surround looking-glasses,
which are fixed into the wall; little squares of blue and yellow
glass are placed in the window-frames. Above, on the walls, the
portraits of kings and commanders, with elegant black hair and
mustachios, wear either a conventional frown or a bland mean-
ingless smile, while at each end are battle-pieces, representing
a fight between Persians and Turks, in which not one Persian is
even wounded, while the Turks are represented in every stage of
dismemberment. An immense picture of the presiding Shah is
278
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLII.
painted right in the sky, overlooking the whole, his body as big
as a tower of the fortifications. An alabaster fountain, placed in
the centre of the room, refreshed the ears of the Shah, and of the
grand officers by whom he was surrounded, with the murmur in
which Orientals delight; and in the court below, a large stone
tank, filled to the brim with sparkling water, reflected the bright
paintings, the pillars covered with looking-glass, the portraits
of the Shah, the pictures of his victories and his Persian com-
manders, presenting a curious and interesting repetition of the
scene.
GRE
Passing out by an old door, we entered, through a private entrance,
into the court of the harem, or women's apartments. This was
a long oblong yard, through the centre of which a narrow stream
of water flowed, between rows of trees, which gave a pleasant
shade. This court was now much changed; the little painted
plaster imitation bricks, which had covered the walls, had peeled
off, and showed the inner mud and cow-dung mortar; the rain
had taken much of the paint off the windows and doors. The
court looked draggled and dirty. Soldiers were lodged in the
rooms, where a hundred wives of a Shah had passed their mono-
tonous and unvaried lives. The ground was strewn with bright
green pottery, once the property of these women, and possibly,
if the ground were excavated, ornaments and jewels would be
discovered, which had formerly graced the person of some
favoured wife.
An old mosque adjoins the palace; it must have been hand-
some once, for a large portion of the glazed tiles which covered
it still remain, and are beautifully illustrated by verses of the
Koran, in the Arabic character.
Remounting our carriages, we crossed over the river, by a
bridge which had originally been built by the Persians, and
which had been very well repaired by the Russians. Entering a
////////////
P. 278.
M
OF
با اله
ما
CACÍTEZLEE
COUR
الله
NO
THE MOSQUE AND BATHS AT ERIVAN, WITH MOUNT ARARAT IN THE BACKGROUND.
CHAP. XLIS.]
279
ERIVAN.
garden, which was laid out in straight avenues, and planted
with vines, but now much neglected, we visited a pretty
summer residence, formerly resorted to by the Shah. This also
was illuminated in bright and fanciful designs and colours, and
contained numberless portraits of illustrious statesmen, as well as
of the inmates of the former harems. We here met an Armenian
gentleman, who, in the French language, described to us a
wonderful church, about forty versts distant, which is said to be
of two or more stories, or rather churches, in height. This
church is called Keriwart, and although of considerable size, yet
the whole is said to be cut out of one solid block of black stone,
exceedingly hard to work-I presume, basalt. It was here that
the veritable lance-head, which was said to have pierced our
Saviour, was formerly kept, till it was removed to the Convent of
Etchmiazin, where it is now preserved. During the conversation
with the Armenian gentleman, some parties danced and played;
their instruments were a drum and a discordant clarinet, some-
what resembling a bagpipe; the absence of any air being made
up by the vigour of the performers. An admiring ring of spec-
tators clapped their hands to the music, while two or three men
danced a regular Irish jig. It was no mere attempt at shuffling,
but regular hard dancing; the steps were most elaborate, and
very rapid, and an occasional "hoick" and flourish of the fingers
completed the resemblance.
We next drove into the city. Passing under the covered ways
of a truly Oriental bazaar, we approached the grand mosque.
This is built and decorated much in the same way as that in the
citadel, but with the advantage of being in a very fair state of
repair, both as to the building and its ornaments. It possesses a
minaret of surpassing beauty in shape and colour, which is
also richly ornamented with enamelled porcelain tiles from top to
bottom. In no part of the world that I have visited, not even in
280
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLII.
China itself, have I ever seen one of this peculiar design, or one
more beautiful; for although the porcelain pagoda once existing
at Nankin, but destroyed, since I saw it, by the rebels, was much
higher and larger, yet its form, in my opinion, was not nearly so
graceful. Weeds had already made some slight havoc on the
roof of the dome of the mosque; but when I pointed this out to
the head Imaun, he appeared rather ashamed, and said that they
should be instantly removed. I may mention that this sacred
building contains in its precincts a Mussulman convent, the cells
of the devotees surrounding a large court-yard in front of the
mosque.
We now returned to our comfortable quarters, and partook of
a handsome dinner and excellent wine, provided for us by the
forethought of the absent governor; and, thoroughly tired with
our thirty-six hours' rattle, in addition to the sights we had seen,
we slept soundly on our comfortable beds.
Attended on the following morning by Major Bellofsky, we
made an interesting inspection of the great caravanserai and of
the bazaars, which, differing from those of Constantinople, are
here purely Oriental in their character. We purchased some
small but handsome prayer-rugs at about ten shillings each, and
some carved brass bowls at equally moderate prices. A very
large portion of the bazaar was now untenanted, owing, it was
said, to the absence during the summer of the proprietors of
these shops to their country gardens; but I imagine that Erivan
must have dwindled since the Russian occupation, and that it is
now no longer one of the most considerable of Persian cities. A
large number of its inhabitants, especially the Mahomedans,
have gone to settle where their own creed is professed, either in
Persia or in Turkey. In the bazaar the flaps of bread, commonly
used by all the inhabitants, were being baked. They are five
feet long by two broad, and of a doughy texture. They are
CHAP. XLII.]
281
ERIVAN.
baked in a hot oven, the bottom of which is lined about six
inches deep with small pebbles, which not only retain the heat and
prevent the bread from being burnt, but also give to it a singular
freckled appearance.
This bread costs about an halfpenny per
pound; and as fruit is remarkably cheap, and the poor generally
live upon these two articles, the expense of the maintenance of a
family of six or eight persons may be rated at not more than as
many pence per diem. A large quantity of cotton is grown near
Erivan. This all goes to Moscow, returning from thence in the
shape of Russian manufactured cloth. Very few articles of
English manufacture were to be seen in the bazaars.
Some of the best Persian carpets manufactured in this country
are said to be produced in the private factory of a certain Prince
Risali Kouli, a Persian. This gentleman, who belongs to the
family of the Shah of Persia, is said to have, many years since,
rebelled against his relative, the reigning sovereign. Being un-
successful, he sought the protection of Russia, which she thought
it both convenient and politic to grant, accompanying it with the
gift of a house near the border of Persia, with an income in
money and certain trade advantages equal to one hundred thou-
sand roubles a year. The Prince, exercising Mahomedan rights
and customs, is the happy possessor of a harem containing three
hundred wives; but as idleness is well known to be a sin, and
well-managed industry very profitable, the Prince, in return for
the care and attention he bestows upon his immense female
household, is rewarded by the result of their amusement in the
shape of many hundreds of beautiful Persian rugs yearly, which,
being sold in the markets of northern Russia, increase his revenues
to an extent by no means inconsiderable. He thus combines
pleasure and profit, and entirely within the laws and ordinances
of his religion.
Erivan, as a city, is not considered very healthy; the air is
282
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLII.
said to be occasionally charged with fever, which, perhaps, may
be attributed to the large space of land to the south, rendered
humid by irrigation; this, however, is a necessity, if the inhabi-
tants of this city are to be fed. As a means of protection against
fever, many of the inhabitants dye the top of the head, as well
as their beards and their feet, of a red colour, which, whether
efficacious or not, certainly gives them a very comical appearance.
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE CONVENT.
ON Tuesday, the 12th September, after inspecting certain re-
pairs of the wheels of our carriage, for which, as the vehicle was
the property of the Government, we were not permitted to make
any payment, and having laid in a few stores for our journey,
and among them what was called Cognac brandy, but which
turned out to be very bad rum, we bade adieu to the authorities
of the city, many of whom attended us on our departure. We
were here presented to a Persian gentleman, the chief of his
nation in the city; he was a man of most commanding figure,
of enormous height and size. Major Bellofsky attended us on
horseback, nor would he be persuaded to return until he had
accompanied us fully two miles outside the city of Erivan.
We first passed over the bridge by a cruelly rough road, and
threaded the gardens between very high walls, built to protect
the inmates of the harems from the eyes of gay deceivers. At
the extremity of the environs, and just as we reached the open.
country, a guard of honour of about twenty Cossacks was drawn
up
to receive us. These men were dressed in long white tunics, and
well armed; many of them, in place of the pistol, carried a small
blunderbuss, in size that of a child's toy, but when loaded heavily
with slugs very effective at short distances. These men were well
mounted; their horses, which were generally white, presented a
284
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIII.
curious appearance, in consequence of most of them being capa-
risoned with scarlet baskliks round their necks.
We here changed guards, our city escort returning, the rural
cavalry now surrounding us. No sooner had we got into the
country than the road improved, and we were then driven at a
fast gallop. The Cossacks now dashed in circles around us,
firing their blunderbusses in attack and defence, and with drawn
swords entered into a somewhat dangerous play. I was surprised
to see the dash with which their horses went at full gallop over
the sharp, rocky ground on either side of the road, occasionally
being suddenly pulled upon their haunches with the sharp
Turkish bit. Every three or four miles we passed a picket house,
on the roof of which we always saw an armed Cossack scanning
the plain between us and Mount Ararat.
In about two hours we reached the Armenian Convent of
Etchmiazin, where it was arranged we were to pass the night.
Here we were received by the police-master, post-master, and
other authorities of this convent town, and conducted into the
inner courts, in the centre of the largest of which stood, the
ancient church. We were quite enraptured with its beauty.
Round the quadrangle were the buildings inhabited by the
primate, the archbishop, the monks, also the kitchen, the libraries,
&c., &c.
The convent of Etchmiazin is the principal, and perhaps the
oldest Armenian convent in Europe or Asia, the Armenians in all
parts of the world acknowledging the patriarch who resides there
as the head of their church. It is stated to have been founded
one thousand five hundred years ago. It has undergone from
time to time great vicissitudes, periods of great splendour and
prosperity, and of great depression and poverty. It has been
repaired, retaining, until quite recently, its ancient style. But at
the last considerable repair, only two years since, by a sad fatuity
UNIV
OF
TOT
나
​Willy!
Ampiy
Meme
Sind
LISAKY
SARIO
COME
Himan
MOJE
Zill
PORCH OF CHURCH, ETCHMIAZIN, A.D. 300, NEAR MOUNT ARARAT.
(122
P. 285.
MIC
CHAP. XLIII.]
285
THE CONVENT.
they adopted the Russian modern style, thus the richly carved
tower and belfry remain in red stone, after the beautiful
ancient model, while the remainder is of a totally different
character, greatly to the detriment of the general effect. The
interior of the church is richly painted and gilt in old designs.
The altar is very gorgeous; on it are twelve very well ex-
ecuted pictures of the apostles in oriental alabaster, which
have an exceedingly good effect. There are, also, two very hand-
some pulpits, one of Persian manufacture, of very intricate work,
and supposed to have been presented by the Shah; the other
is known to have been the gift of the Pope of Rome—
Gregory XII.
We were shown an enormous silver urn, very handsome in
pattern, and holding from ten to twelve gallons of consecrated
oil. The consecration of this oil is performed with very great
ceremony, and the quantity is calculated to last for about seven
years. As an especial mark of consideration we were allowed to
see the holiest relics of the convent. The exhibition of these was
accompanied by very curious and holy ceremonics, without which
it was not permitted that they should be taken out of the sanc-
tuary in which they were deposited. Many monks, dressed in
their sacred robes, chanted whilst the superior procecded into an
inner chamber behind the altar, incense burning the while. One
by one the sacred relics were produced from the stone-vaulted
chamber, brought with great care from the altar, and placed upon
a large table covered with a richly embroidered cloth. The first
relic was said to be the actual head of the spear that pierced our
Saviour's side; it is of brass, and certainly appeared to me of
modern workmanship. The second was a piece of Noah's ark,
which was delivered by an angel to the patriarch Jacobus, i.e.,
St. James of Nisibis. It is said that Jacobus resided on this spot,
which is but a few miles distant from the base of Mount Ararat;
286
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIII.
that his constant occupation was that of climbing the mountain,
with a view of obtaining a portion of the ark. He, however, was
never allowed to reach the summit, being miraculously brought
back by night as far as he had gone by day, until an angel, at
length taking compassion upon him, made him a present of the
portion of the timber of the ark which was shown to us in the
convent.
They have here a tradition that no one has ever yet reached
the summit of Mount Ararat. Professor Parrot, Behrens,
Seamour, Rhodzko, Khamkoff, and others are said to have
ascended it, but I very much doubt if any one of them has
reached the summit; at least they positively assert at Etchmiazin
that no one has ever done so. Josephus alludes to the belief that
portions of Noah's ark still existed, and I believe that it is by no
means an uncommon belief that its wreck exists still on the sum-
mit of the mountain. The third relic shown to us was a piece of
the true cross, upon which our Saviour was crucified, and which
is naturally held in the highest estimation. Then followed a few
other holy articles, such as the hands of saints in silver cases,
etc., etc.; but the first three were by far the most highly esteemed
by the brotherhood.
C
Passing out of the church, we carefully examined the beautiful
belfry. It is built of red sandstone in a highly ornamented style,
something resembling the Byzantine. The arches, however, were
carved very similarly to those in some of our old Norman
churches. Near to this tower are the tombs of two archbishops,
well executed in Oriental marble. Here, also, is a handsome
tombstone of white Italian marble, placed by the Honourable
East India Company to the memory of Sir John Macdonald,
envoy from India to Persia, who died in this neighbourhood from
the effects of the climate and over-fatigue. We were now shown
to a suite of rooms most comfortably furnished, and were well
CHAP. XLIII.]
287
THE CONVENT.
supplied with all we could desire, excellent beds and very
generous and hospitable entertainment, for which, when we left
the convent, no remuneration whatever would be accepted, nor
were we allowed to give any recompense whatever excepting a
small gratuity to the poor.
In the evening we were invited to partake of the hospitality of
his eminence the archbishop. He entertained us in his rooms,
and the wine of the country, which was liberally handed to us,
was far better than any I had tasted on the south side of the
Caucasus. There was excellent fruit, particularly muscatel
grapes from a solitary tree of this kind, which grew in the con-
vent gardens.
The Archbishop Kukir Sakiniants was a fine old man, with
handsome features and a mild address; he had been many years
archimandrite of Karasu Bazaar, in the Crimea, but when his
wife was dead, his daughters married, and his sons in various.
professions, he entered upon these sacred duties, and retired to
this somewhat isolated position. We had no opportunity of
being presented to the Patriarch himself, as he had proceeded to
Tiflis to pay his respects to the Emperor.
After supper we returned to our rooms, and it is my pleasing
duty to record that one of the poor servants of the convent
brought to us a Russian bank-note of some value, saying he had
found it lying amongst our small traps. Nothing could induce
him to receive a present of money, which we pressed upon him
in return; the only way, therefore, in which we could reward
this act of honesty was by forcing upon him the acceptance of a
silk scarf, which we insisted upon his taking.
On the following morning we were taken to the library, which
was exceedingly rich in old manuscripts; much care and pains
have been bestowed upon sorting them, and of the greater portion
a list has been printed, describing two thousand five hundred
288
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLITE
Gig
manuscript volumes. Many of these are of immense size and
great bulk, and all are beautifully written on the finest parchment,
almost universally in the Armenian language, evidencing an in-
credible amount of industry and patience. This library is said
in former times to have contained fifteen thousand volumes, but
in the days in which the convent was continually subject to a tax,
first from the Persian, then from the Turk, thousands of these
precious volumes were lost. Not many years since they were
freely given away to strangers, and those who were sufficiently
acquainted with Oriental literature to know their value carried
to Europe many of these precious documents, where they occasion-
ally parted with them at very high prices. The monks presented
us with a copy of their catalogue of the manuscripts already
examined and tabulated, which copy has been deposited in the
Oriental library at Cambridge. They have, under great difficulties,
established a printing-press, from which are now produced works
which do them great credit. The task, however, was Herculean,
for no sooner had they taught some of the natives to work this
press than they demanded enormous wages, and rather than work
for a reasonable sum they preferred eating water melons and
flap bread in the bazaar at a daily expenditure of one
To send to Moscow or St. Petersburg for in-
structed printers was beyond their means. Formerly the
revenues of this convent were derived from twenty-five villages,
of which they were possessors; but on
but on the conquest of
this country by the Russians they were dispossessed of all of
them, with the exception, I believe, of two. It may seem
singular, therefore, when I say that the conquest has been very
much for their benefit. The fact is that the Persian Shah was
in the habit of treating the superior of this convent as a sort
of banker, into whose hands he never paid any money, but,
nevertheless, continually drew money out; thus the chief of the
•
penny.
GAR
CHAP. XLIIL]
289
THE CONVENT.
convent and the monks had the honour of possessing, and the
labour of attending to, these twenty-five villages; but the greater
part of the benefit arising therefrom was absorbed by their rulers.
Since the conquest of this country by Russia their affairs have
assumed more regularity. The Czar has already given them five
villages, and their revenues have gradually risen to eighty thou-
sand roubles a year, and would far exceed that sum were it not
that their charity causes them to lend a ready ear to the applica-
tion of their tenants for a remission of their rents. The expenses
of the convent are very considerable. In addition to the patriarch
and archbishop they have about forty resident monks to provide
for, and they also daily dine all religious travellers who visit
them, frequently numbering one hundred and fifty. They also
maintain in the convent a school of twenty-five boys, who are
instructed by the monks. They state that their consumption is
nearly one small bullock and two sheep daily in the kitchen,
besides large quantities of bread and vegetables, and seventy-five
thousand poods of wood per month, which, on account of all the
forest in the neighbourhood having been destroyed, is now an
article of great expense.
When the Armenian kingdom was
broken up by the invasion of the Tartars this convent suffered
much, and, indeed, was continually plundered and heavily taxed.
Their position, at the base of Mount Ararat, was a sort of neutral
battle-ground between the Persians and the Turks, and which-
ever side was victorious, the convent of Etchmiazin suffered. It
is said to have been enormously wealthy: its rich chalices and
other objects of gold and silver, with the exception of some few
objects which they hid, have been from time to time all plundered.
In 1828, when this country was ceded to Russia, the happy days
of this Christian brotherhood were again in the ascendant. Now
the convent shows evident though gradual signs of regaining
something of its ancient prosperity.
U
290
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIII.
Too much cannot be said in praise of the wonderful strength of
faith which the Armenians possess, for, although their country
was, during many years, overrun by the Mussulman, Turk, and
Persian, and every inducement held out to them to change their
faith, yet nothing could cause them to give up the cross and
assume the crescent. A very intelligent young priest named
Stephane, said to me with fervour, "Our faith, our religion, is
all to us! Kill me, but you cannot rob me of my faith."
The patriarch is elected, as far as I could understand, by the
equal suffrages of the clergy and the laity. They choose thirty
monks to form a synod, from which, when a patriarch dies, three
names are selected, which are placed before the Emperor, out of
whom he makes the final selection. The position of the patriarch
and of the Armenian bishop of a diocese must be very lucra-
tive, although it is not known exactly from what sources their
wealth is derived. Probably a large portion of it is the gift
cither in money or jewels of their congregations, over whom the
Armenian clergy and religion have a very powerful influence.
Some time since, when the daughter of the bishop of Alhaltsikh
was married, it is said that her father gave her immense riches
in dowry, amongst which were bags of oriental pearls.
The union of the Armenian and Catholic churches was once very
earnestly contemplated. The Pope hoped to include in his embraces
at the same time the Greek as well as the Armenian church; but
the recent difficulties of the church of Rome have certainly
tended to a contrary result, as now neither the Greek nor
Armenian church would be inclined to place themselves under
the head of a church, which has met with such misfortunes,
culminating in its entire loss of temporal power and authority.
In the whole course of our tour, there was, perhaps, nothing
which we saw more full of interest than the Armenian con-
vent of Etchmiazin, situated as it is near the base of Mount
CHAP. XLIII.]
291
THE CONVENT.
Ararat, at or near whose summit the three countries, Pussia,
Turkey, and Persia meet. It presents an object word of the
attention of all travellers, and its library cannot be even casually
visited without striking the attention of the most unlearned of its
visitors. We made our arrangements to leave the convent by a
frontier by-road leading to the town and fort of Alexandropol,
having received permission to divert the post-horses requisite for
this journey, for two days, from their proper posting-roads, a
favour for which we felt deeply indebted to the governor.
-
The small town of Etchmiazin contains about eight thousand
inhabitants; it belongs entirely to the convent, is generally
prosperous, and would be more so but for the idleness of its in-
habitants. The country round this district is decidedly un-
healthy; it abounds with fever, caused either by the marshes
between it and the city of Erivan, or by the impurity of the
water. A material alteration for the worse in this respect must
have taken place since the first institution of the convent, for
the oldest histories speak of it as being a resort of those who
studied peace, health, and happiness in this quiet retreat, from the
turbulent and warlike atmosphere which surrounded them. Not
far from Etchmiazin are very large rocks of salt. The trade in
this article is immense; it is of the very best quality, and pro-
duces to the government some million of roubles annually.
IT 2
CHAPTER XLIV.
THE TURKISH FRONTIER.
WE started from the convent at a rattling gallop, the horses,
in fact, all running away. This pace we continued over an easy
road, for almost the whole of this evening's drive. The police naib
with ten Cossacks accompanied us, partly for honour, partly for
protection. We were proceeding to the very verge of the frontiers
of Persia in a very wild country, which we were informed was not
always free from the incursions of lawless men of a wild Kurdish
tribe. At eight we arrived at the fort of Sardarabat, an old and
very considerable mud fortress. It is situated within five or six
miles of the Turkish frontier, from which this district is divided
by a small river called the Arpachi. We were received at the
gate of the town by the venerable priest, robed in a handsome
dress of rich embroidered silk, carrying on a cushion a beautifully
illuminated edition of the Evangelists. Accompanying him was
the head man of the town, with the hoary locks of years, who
presented to us a tray, on which were laid some bread and a small
saucer of salt. We accepted freely the hospitalities of the town,
then for the first time emblematically rendered in bread and salt.
This custom exists among the Arabs, but I had never seen it
practised elsewhere. Crowds of people surrounded our carriage,
having in their hands small plates of grease, cach containing a
lighted wick, as it was now dark. We threaded our way to the
CHAP. XLIV.]
house we were to occupy, lighted by the numerous tapers of these
kind attendants. Hard boards, but well-meant hospitality, were
accorded to us, and a supper of roast fowl, tea, and wine, probably
the best they could produce, with an invitation to take as much
vodskey, or native brandy, as we might desire, was placed freely
at our disposal, without any payment except what we might
choose to bestow upon the attendants.
My knowledge of the Turkish language, imperfect as it was,
here proved of great service to us, as it enabled me to make every
arrangement for the next morning. I diligently questioned the
inhabitants as to the sporting generally, and the large game
in particular. I was told that to the west of Ararat was
to be found the ibex, and still nearer to us
very large
stags; but I do not place entire reliance upon this information,
for I well know that frequently in the kindness of their heart
they state as a fact, that which they know you are desirous of
hearing.
It was no great punishment to rise at four A.M., and thus to
escape the tormentors that infest most of the couches and sofas in
this country. During the process of harnessing our five horses,
the whole started off with the carriage, knocking down and run-
ning over both driver and postilion, and madly galloping through
the town. They were lost in the distance. We had fixed our
baggage so securely that it could not budge, but the small articles,
such as maps, coats, flasks, umbrellas, sticks, etc., gave us tracks
by which we could follow up the vanishing vehicle, which at
length we discovered. Two horses were on the ground, the car-
riage was stuck in an impassable narrow gateway. The drivers
having now come to life, and having got the carriage in an open
plain, proceeded to race it round in gradually diminishing circles
to sober the horses, and we were enabled to jump in, when they
again started off at a furious gallop from the town of Sardarabat,
THE TURKISH FRONTIER.
293
294
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIV.
while five or six Cossacks circling their horses went through, as
usual, a mimic fight around us. Some of these men carried their
long guns in a singular way, but apparently without incon-
venience. They were laid on their saddles under their right
legs, thus, in fact, they sat upon them, a position which onc
would imagine would be painful to them, but which they pre-
served during the whole day; and I presume it was their usual
custom. One of these horsemen carried a lance, the shaft of
which was a beautiful male bamboo, evidently Indian. This
was the only lance I had seen amongst all the native soldiers.
who had accompanied us in the Caucasus. For although the
Cossacks of the plains are armed with a lance, those of the moun-
tain never carry that weapon.
-
The country through which we passed was very rocky, wild,
and quite uncultivated. To use a somewhat Irish expression,
the only sign of life was the tombs of the scanty inhabitants, who,
although so poor while living, are when dead honoured with very
handsome monuments, carved in red sandstone.
About two P.M. we reached the village of Mastera, some forty
versts from Sardarabat. This village belongs to the Armenian
convent of Etchmiazin. Here the ceremony of presenting bread
and salt was again performed. The native villages on this
border frontier, after the vicissitudes they underwent before the
occupation of this country, were left in a state, in many instances,
of sad desolation; they now show signs of regaining prosperity.
The old Armenian churches, which in many instances had fallen
into ruins, are being re-roofed, and wherever a supply of water
can be obtained the ground is tilled. At Mastera a large supply
of corn was being housed for the wants of the winter, and to
meet their rents. This grain was being poured into a siloe, or
circular hole in the earth, beneath which is a cellar lined with
hard cement, impervious not only to water, but even to damp.
CHAP. XLIV.]
295
THE TURKISH FRONTIER.
This being filled in with corn, is then covered with straw, stones,
and earth, and in this manner, when the scourge of war passes
over the land, these siloes are so concealed that they frequently
escape the cager eyes of the cunning and rapacious Bashi
Bazouk. The houses in the villages are most singularly con-
structed, no window or opening is to be perceived on the outside
of them. After entering by a low door, and threading your way
through darkened passages, you enter a large courtyard in the
centre of the building; this, with the exception of a small space in
the middle, is on all sides roofed over. One portion is allotted
to the horses, which are attended to with quite as much care as
the men.
On another side is a handsome divan, with richly
carved stone-built fireplace, and on the other sides are small well-
swept divisions, in which strangers repose themselves after the
fatigues of the journey; but every room in the building is lighted
from above.
After changing our tired horses for four fresh ones, which had
been sent by the kind attention of the governor from Alexan-
dropol, with also a fresh escort of mounted men, we speedily passed
over an undulating country, and at nine P.M. we found ourselves
in a tolerably comfortable inn in the town of Alexandropol,
at a short distance from the far-famed modern fort. The hotel
was kept by an old German and his wife, who appeared to be
thriving their eldest son, in consequence of being a good linguist,
had lately received a place of some emolument in the new rail-
road, which was being constructed from Poti to the metropolis,
Tiflis. Spreading our carpets, as usual, on our wooden stretchers,
we soon buried all these scenes in temporary oblivion.
On the following morning I was waited upon by Colonel
Chafsokoff, who was acting as civil governor. He graciously
inquired in what way he could serve me, and when I told him
that I was anxious, after having seen the town, to proceed
G
296
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIV.
towards Anhaltic, he immediately gave every direction that
horses should be provided for our use. He was accompanied by
the government schoolmaster, who acted as interpreter, having
by his own pains and industry taught himself the French lan-
guage. This gentleman took great trouble in giving us informa-
tion upon various subjects connected with this country; and as an
instance of its cheapness he stated that a household could be
decently maintained with all its requisites on a rouble, or two and
eightpence per day. In the afternoon the acting-governor again
called in his carriage, and drove us round the town. The new
Armenian church is handsome. It is built of three different-
coloured sandstones, red, white, and black, and the union of these
three gives a singular, though not unpleasing effect.
The powerful fortress of Alexandropol is the largest, if not the
only one of consideration, in the Caucasus. It is built on an
eminence commanding an extensive plain, and dominating the
river Arpachi, which divides the Russian from the Turkish
territory. It is said to have cost many millions of roubles. At
its southern extremity is a strong round tower, built of stone, in
which are mounted about sixteen guns. On its northern extremity
is a new work disconnected with the fort itself, but apparently of
much greater strength, with a wide ditch, citadel or central tower,
etc., etc. The fort itself is composed of regular bastions, with a
deep ditch, is casemated and mounted with guns of a very large
calibre. I was unable to obtain exact information as to its arma-
ment, for a mysterious silence was kept on these points, and the
governor being absent I could not obtain permission to visit its
interior works. On the subject of the interior fortifications of
their strong places the Russians are very reticent, in my opinion
wisely, for the day might come when it would be by no means
advantageous that all this should be clearly known. Although
we frequently do take some trouble to gain an insight into the
CHAP. XLIV.]
297
THE TURKISH FRONTIER.
defensive works of our neighbours, so moderate is the amount of
encouragement which is given to those who do so, that it is
extremely probable that we might enter upon a war in this
country, as we have done in many others, without being practically
acquainted either with the country itself, or with the nature of
the defensive works which we should meet within it.
One radical fault, which the fort of Alexandropol appeared
to me to possess, is that the natural ravines around it form
screened approaches, and that from these ravines vast quantities
of stone have been taken for building purposes; by which means
these dangerous approaches have been actually improved for any
enemy ready to take advantage of them.
Passing the Armenian burial-ground, we drove towards the
Turkish frontier. On our road we saw a beautiful mountain
covered with snow, rising out of the plain towards the west,
called Allaquot. The Kurds, a rude people, live in this moun-
tain in the summer, pasturing their sheep; while in winter they
migrate to the wide plains at the foot of Mount Ararat. At the
frontier there is no bridge over the river Arpachi, so that in a
flood there would be no communication: an inconvenient cir-
cumstance, as from the bazaar at Alexandropol a large amount of
goods and useful stores are daily taken into Turkey, the duty
charged on the frontier being by no means excessive, and
averaging not more than five per cent. ad valorem. It is
singular that in this running stream the fish are said to be
poisonous. This is accounted for by its being requisite, for the
sake of the rice cultivation, to dam up the stream above, which
renders the water stagnant and unwholesome; and this may, in
a great measure, account for the fevers which are said to exist in
this country.
G
During our drive through the town we saw three men being
taken as prisoners to the castle. They had been committed for
298
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIV.
the crime of murder, and their sentence was transporation for
life to Siberia. Excepting for the most revolting descriptions of
murder, or very serious political offences, Russians, or indeed
natives of any part of these dominions, are seldom put to death,
exile to Siberia being the usual punishment.
CHAPTER XLV.
FROM ALEXANDROPOL TO BORJOME.
ON Monday morning, leaving the town of Alexandropol, with
four good-looking horses attached to our tarantass, we halted
close to the most considerable of the outworks of the fortress to
regulate some of the harness of the horses. This gave us the
opportunity of examining the ditches of the fort, the flank
defences of which appeared most meagre, the ditch being only
defended by one gun and loopholes for two muskets. The red
stone castle, in the centre, was also a prominent feature for attack,
but would soon probably share the fate of the Malakoff, at
Sebastopol, which it somewhat resembled. On the first day's
bombardment it would have its useless upper story knocked to
pieces. The berme also appeared insufficient, and the construction
of the ditches somewhat defective, for instead of being widened
towards the flanking guns, the scarp and counterscarp are
parallel. The masonry of the fortress itself is exposed to an
extraordinary degree. We then proceeded to an open plain,
apparently flat for many miles, which made it difficult for us to
understand why a position for the fortress should not have been
selected here, in preference to a site intersected by ravines.
In about three hours we reached a village called Baitar, a very
appropriate name for a resting-place. An excellent lunch of roast
chicken was soon cooked for us by our Cossack attendants, in
271
300
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLV.
which we invited the naib to join us. Flaps of bread served
us after the Arab fashion most conveniently for plates, napkins,
and bread itself. The cooking fireplace was very ingenious; a
large earthen pitcher, with a mouth one foot in diameter, was
buried in the ground up to its neck. A hole in its side, six inches
from the bottom, conducted by a stone channel up to the surface
of the ground. To light the fire it was only needful to put in
some straw and chips and gently blow down the channel, when
the fire at once burned up. It could not be put out by wind, and
the meat was nicely roasted over it. Its form caused great
economy of fucl; in short, it was exactly on the same principle as
our newly invented kitchen stoves. To put it out it was only
requisite to stop up the channel, and cover the mouth with an
carthen jar.
The carts laden with corn or merchandise were here invariably
supplied with ropes made of twisted hair. Previous experience
in India had taught me the value of these as far stronger and
more durable than hemp; but I have never seen them adopted.
in Europe.
On leaving Baitar we crossed a branch of the River Arpachi,
near to some Cossack outposts, the charge of this entire frontier
being in the hands of these excellent troops. After about three
hours' drive we entered Troidsky, a Russian settlement, near a
large lake. We were received in a clean house by a charming
old pair of industrious people, where we found every simple re-
quisite we could desire: rezais or quilts of the country in profu-
sion; the ever-ready Samovar with milk, eggs, and black bread
at our command.
Troidsky is a settlement of the Troitses, believers in the Holy
Ghost alone. The men somewhat resemble Germans, but their
women certainly seem to have a Mongolian caste. The dress of
the women is very singular; it is composed of very bright colours,
CHAP. XLV.] FROM ALEXANDROPOL TO BORJOME.
301
such as white, bright red, and bright green, made in a curious
fashion. I understood these people to be called Badnokers, but
from our imperfect knowledge of the language it is possible we
were mistaken.
We left Troidsky at half-past 6 P.M. Although we were by
no means at a high latitude, and the season was not advanced,
yet the weather was exceedingly cold; ice covered the small lake,
and not only the upper but even the lower mountains were white
with snow.
The first village we came to was called Orloffsky, and in three
hours more we reached a village exactly of the same character as
Troidsky, which, I believe, was called Badnoker. A fine moun-
tain called Abool, then covered with snow, overlooks this village.
The Russians say that many deer are found there, but from the
look of the country I have great doubts of this being the fact.
Scarcely had we left this village when we were met by a police
officer in a pericordinia with three horses. He was sent by the
Palcovich, or civil superintendent, of Alhalkalakik to present his
compliments to us, and to place his services at our disposal. I
was really distressed that he should have sent such a distance—
nearly twenty versts-to do us this honour; but it was another
instance, added to the numberless ones already received, of con-
sideration and attention on our journey.
About 2 P.M. we reached Alhalkalakik. A more uninteresting
place I seldom saw; but with the assistance of the Palcovich, or
chief magistrate, we obtained horses almost directly. A gentle-
man, who spoke the French language fluently, interpreted all
our wishes. He was most useful to us, and informed us of the
difficulties we might meet with on the road, and recommended
us to remain for the night at the house of a Turkish Molah, or
Mussulman priest, of the name of Jdhoos Khoon Effendi, at a
curious old Turkish fortress on the upper part of the River Kuron.
302
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLV.
I shall never forget the astonishment of this gentleman when we
related how many weeks we had spent in Russia, the places we
had visited so unfrequented by strangers, and the many hundreds
of versts we had travelled with no knowledge of the Russian
language.
At 3 P.M. we started for Kirkliss and Akhaltsikh. Having
very good horses, we reached Nakalaky in two hours. The
descent to this station, which is situated in the depth of a gorge
between high mountains, was very abrupt. Sending a Cossack
in advance to apprise the Molah of our intended arrival, we
drove into Kirkliss, where, from its secluded position, probably
no Englishman had been for years. The old Molah and his
assistant, Arif Effendi, received us kindly in their rude hospitality.
Here there was no one whatever to interpret for us in the Russian
language; but fortunately Turkish is commonly spoken on the
borders, therefore we managed to obtain all we required, and
also to glean some interesting particulars concerning this curious
and secluded valley. We went over the old castle, situated on a
rock at the confluence of two rivers, and in a position quite im-
pregnable before the days of powerful artillery. A very curious.
stone surmounted the principal doorway, which was richly carved
in ancient characters: we were told these were Kurdish. The
view of the valleys from this castle, at the junction of the rivers
Ardahan and Kuron, was very grand. These rivers are said
to contain quantities of fish, which the number of stone
fishing-traps placed in the river seemed to confirm. They are
represented to be of great size, and possibly may be the salmon
which are stated to be so plentiful at Tiflis, and which, no doubt,
mount the river for breeding purposes. I never saw a river
which appeared more perfect for salmon-fishing: the runs and
pools alternate, to any sportsman's delight.
About three miles from Kirkliss, and just within the Turkish
CHAP. XLV.] FROM ALEXANDROPOL TO BORJOME.
303
frontier, is a town called Kara Kama, where excellent carpets
are made and sold at reasonable prices.
A CASTLE NEAR KIRKLIS.
The Molah's house, although made most welcome to us, was
perhaps the meanest we had yet met in our travels; the
windows devoid of glass, the divan broken and dirty; and we
were so torn by vermin that we were glad to rise with the sun.
The view of the old castle in the morning repaid us well for our
detention; but although I tried the stream patiently with Brown's
kill-devil, yet it was without effect.
304
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLV.
We left the good old notary's house at half-past nine, and
travelled with good horses to Edumulah. Provisions in this
country must be very cheap, as we here saw a sheep killed which
weighed about sixty pounds, and for which we were asked five
shillings and sixpence, or a little more than one penny a pound;
and bread is said to be proportionally cheap. From Edumulah
there is a road branching north direct to Borjome, thus saving a
considerable distance to any one desirous of going either to Tiflis
or to the Black Sea. But as we were anxious to visit Alhaltsikh,
we took a hilly road towards the west, and ere long obtained a
view of this beautiful town, situated on a considerable stream, a
castellated rock dominating the Armenian, the Jewish, as well
as the new Russian quarters. On our arrival we drove to a very
nice station-house; but the acting governor, Colonel Paul Tau-
gren, at once invited us to his house, in the usual kindly manner.
We then accompanied him in a drive through the town and a
visit to the fort, where we called upon a fine old artillery officer,
the commandant, who personally showed us over the fort. It
is in a state to be impregnable from an insurrectionary movement,
but certainly untenable, both from its position and its general
antiquity, against an attack with modern means of war, and
indeed I should very much doubt whether it would not crumble
to pieces by the fire of the heavy guns which have been mounted
upon it. Its position was very picturesque; from its summit we
could discern the woods immediately above the springs of Abastu-
man, about twenty-two versts distant. These mineral waters are
hot, and are considered very valuable in their properties. The
place has lately been put under the control of the physician to the
Grand Duke, and is being gradually converted into an agreeable
summer resort; not perhaps that it is so much cooler, but that
its trees are shady and pleasant, and present a pleasing contrast
to the country which for many days we had travelled over. I
CHAP. XLV.] FROM ALEXANDROPOL TO BORJOME.
305
was told that near Abastuman were to be found plenty of royal
stags; we saw the horns of many, and they appeared precisely
similar to those of the Himalayas, and quite as large; from the
crown of the head to the tip of the point they measured fre-
quently more than forty inches. There were also said to be ibex.
in these mountains. In the fortress is a very handsome stone
chapel, which has a fine gallery in the interior of its dome; this
is now a Christian church, but was formerly a Mahomedan
mosque; in it were some valuable silver-mounted painted tablets,
the property of the regiment stationed here; these are carried with
the troops when they move, and are deposited in the churches of
the towns which they garrison. A large number of sick soldiers
occupied a considerable building; these were the sick of the
Southern Caucasus on their return from the springs of Abastuman.
The commandant begged me to accept the hospitalities of his
house, should we remain in the town. On descending from the
castle we accepted the invitation of Colonel Paul Taugren to his
home, and we were pleased to find that his wife, being partly
of French origin, conversed with precision in that language. We
spent a pleasant evening, when amongst other things she re-
marked, speaking of the education of Russian families of this
period, that they were not content until it embraced a knowledge
of the Russian, English, French, and German languages, which
four must be spoken fluently by everyone in the rising generation
who had the least pretension to education.
We expected our carriage to be ready at an early hour to start
for Borjome; the wheels, being very shaky, had been taken off for
repairs under the promise that they should be finished by the
early morning. We waited an hour and a half, after which we
proceeded into the yard, and measuring those of other government
carriages we selected two pair, which with considerable trouble
we adjusted to our carriage. The postmaster was in dismay at
X
306
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLV.
this novelty; but we caused it to be explained to him that as all
these carriages were government property, it could not make much
difference, as long as the old wheels were in the Caucasus, in
what part of it they should be found, and with the kind assist-
ance of Colonel Taugren the matter was adjusted. About nine
o'clock we got away. Nearly two versts from Akhaltsikh, stands
a handsome monument to the Russian victories over their constant
enemy, the Turk. At about half-past ten we reached Athouri,
a curious old castle commanding the river Kuron. The road
from Edumulah, to which I before alluded, joins in here. We
now took an extra pair of horses, as we had been informed that
the road was bad; but such proved to be by no means the case,
and we should have done far better without them. The scenery
in this beautiful valley began to improve every minute; magni-
ficent mountains, as we threaded the margin of the stream,
appeared to shut out further progress, and fine trees of dark
foliage were a most agreeable change, after the sterile scenery
to which we had lately been accustomed. A great deal of traffic
appears to be carried on by this road, principally on the backs of
pack-horses, of which we saw several droves. Stags are said
to be found in this neighbourhood, and ibex in the mountains.
Trout are also said to be plentiful in the river, and salmon; the
latter of white colour, very large, and not good to eat. On
nearing Borjome, fortunately when only one verst distant, the
tire of one of our new wheels came off and broke in two, which
obliged us to walk the rest of the way. We arrived about two
in the afternoon, and, knowing of no hotel, we put up at the
station-house, obtaining a small and dirty room, a passage in fact
only to some inner rooms beyond, but we were glad to relinquish
our tarantasse for any accommodation, however rude.
CHAPTER XLVI.
BORJOME.
BORJOME is a quiet little retreat in the mountains. The spot
was selected by Prince Waronzoff as a resting-place during the
hot season, and he lived here for some years in a little cottage.
The scenery in which it is placed is very charming: a long
wooden bridge spans the stream in the middle of the town, and
already many stone houses, in addition to a handsome bazaar,
are in course of erection.
The palace of the Grand Duke is well situated and very
handsome; it overlooks the river and the public gardens, which
latter are prettily laid out in the English style, and, surrounded
as Borjome is by magnificent mountains, with the rapid-running
Kuron at their base, it is altogether one of the most beautiful
mountain retreats imaginable. A junction with the railway near
Suram, distant about twenty miles, would place Borjome in easy
communication with the capital, Tiflis. The line would not be
difficult, and would increase the value of property and promote
the growth of the town.
As soon as her Imperial Highness the Grand Duchess heard
of our arrival she sent the marechal of her court to request that
we would visit her, at the same time informing us that rooms.
and entertainment were at our disposal in the house allotted to
X 2
308
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVI.
+
the staff of his Imperial Highness the Grand Duke, during our
stay in Borjome, and commanding us to dine with her on the
following day. Her Imperial Highness, who is daughter of the
Grand Duke of Baden, has the most charming and gracious
manner: she speaks English perfectly, and, at our interview, was
pleased to take the most lively interest in our travels through a
country so seldom visited by travellers from the west of Europe.
After our painful and long journey, the comfortable rooms and
excellent fare thus hospitably placed at our disposal were most
thoroughly appreciated; an easy bed in a large and well-fur-
nished room making up for the hardships of wooden settees and
miserable dirty cabins-an exchange only understood by those
who have been placed in similar circumstances.
The following morning was devoted to rest and reflection upon
our tour, which was now drawing to its close, as, in a few days,
we hoped to be again upon the Black Sea on our return to Europe.
In the afternoon we obeyed her Imperial Highness's commands
to dine: a carriage, arriving at the hour indicated, took us to
the palace. We were rewarded by a very pleasant evening; it
happened to be the jour de fête of the Grand Duchess, and we
were happy to be present to add our felicitations to those of so
many others, who evidently felt the good wishes they expressed.
We met about twenty persons in all, various members of the
household, in addition to five of the royal children. The eldest
son of her Imperial Highness is about fourteen years of age,
and is one of the handsomest and most intelligent boys I ever
met, and the little ones are quite charming. The family comfort
and case which surround everything, although no court etiquette
is omitted, gives an additional charm to this royal circle. The
writing-room of the Duke is furnished in the most perfect oriental
style, somewhat after the council-chamber of the Shah's palace
at Erivan, which has been previously described.
CHAP. XLVI.]
309
BORJOME.
On Thursday, the 21st of September, we mounted again into
our humble little tarantasse. Some repairs had been done to the
tire of the broken wheel, for which the blacksmith demanded
four roubles. The same work would have been done much better
in old England for less than onc. I thought it best, however, to
give him within half a rouble of his demand, which he was only
too delighted to pocket, and we started along the beautiful
mountain road for Suram. A general progress pervades the
whole district. At Suram, the central point at which the roads
from Poti, Tiflis, and Borjome meet, there appeared to be a large
amount of posting, and great activity. At the station-house there
were at least a dozen carriages changing horses, starting or
arriving. The posting road was excellent, and the arrangements
speedy and effective.
Not very far beyond Suram, on the Poti road, we came upon
the new railway: it is now only in course of construction, and is
the first and only one on the eastern side of the Black Sea. It was
agreeable to meet again with some of our own countrymen, and to
hear our own language; for the construction of the line being
undertaken by an English company, almost all the engineers and
foremen of works are of our nation. The line itself was already
completed from Poti to Tilliwill, through a flat marshy forest.
The remainder of the distance to Tiflis is also completed in
detached parts; but it will be long before it is entirely finished, as
in some places difficulties arise from the soil slipping in huge
masses down the mountain sides, rendering it almost impossible
to obtain a solid foundation for a road. This, indeed, constitutes
the main difficulty of constructing roads in the Caucasus.
I may mention that the telegraph posts in the Caucasus are
everywhere complete, and the telegraph in working order, joining
all the principal towns and stations in the country; but I was
surprised to see that iron posts were everywhere being substituted
310
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVI.
for those of wood. Considering that a large portion of this
country is one immense forest, where suitable posts could be easily
cut and erected for thirty pence cach, I cannot understand why
the government should incur so great an expense as to purchase
iron ones from England, which must, I imagine, have each cost
at least as many shillings.
There was nothing particular to remark on the way to Tilliwill,
except the gigantic and luxuriant forest, which extended on all
sides for hundreds of square miles. At Bellagora the postmaster
demanded more than the government price for the horses, and
when asked for brandy he tendered bottles labelled "French
cognac," but which, when we requested he would open one, he at
once confessed to be common rum, and those labelled " Sherry,"
to contain very common wine of the country. I mention this
to put travellers on their guard, as no trust can be placed in these
people, and it is requisite, therefore, at all times to keep a sharp
look out in such matters.
A traveller in this country is compelled to set aside all tra-
ditionary English ideas of a dislike to distrust his fellows. In
self-defence he must practise a certain amount of suspicion; he must
ask beforehand the price of his room and meals; and he must be
suspicious of his bottle, though it be labelled foreign wine.
At about 4 P.M. we reached Tilliwill, the first of the towns in
the low, flat country beneath the mountains. The station-master
was very obliging, giving us the only room at his disposal, the
last we should probably occupy in a station-house, and perhaps
the most dirty we had yet inhabited; but we were very grateful
for it.
Here we bade adieu to our poor old rattling tarantasse, which
had, with sundry repairs, carried us over eight hundred and
ninety-three versts of roads, many of them wild and rough.
It had been a great convenience to be able to retain the use
CHAP. XLVI.]
311
BORJOME.
of this one carriage, instead of being compelled to change it at
every station during this long journey.
The country of Imeritia is perhaps naturally the richest in
the world, the inhabitants claiming for it the original position of
the Garden of Eden. The hills are covered with magnificent
forest trees, of which the most valuable kinds, such as the oak
and the walnut, are very prominent. To the elm trees are
attached luxuriantly growing vines, producing the richest grapes,
which, but for the ignorance or idleness of the inhabitants, would
produce the finest wine. Almost every kind of grain grows
spontaneously, and the valleys throw up the finest pastures. The
mountains are said to produce minerals, of which gold forms by no
means the smallest part; and the golden fleeces, to carry away
which Jason came to the country, are not, even at the present
day, entirely unknown, for in certain places fleeces are now
steeped in unfrequented streams in the mountains, and, after
remaining some considerable time in the hollows and eddies
beneath the water, are carefully washed, when particles of gold in
no inconsiderable quantities are shaken from them.
The
On the morning of the 22nd September, we were up at five,
the time stated for the departure of the train being 6 A.M.
clever waiter so hurried our departure as to cause us to forget
the change in payment of our account. Running across a
common of wet grass, we reached the station, among a crowd of
passengers, shortly before the time named for the departure of
the train. The ticket-clerk, however, [had not arrived, nor
did he appear until after the hour named for departure; and
then he stated that it was very hard to be disturbed at his
early tea. This, of course, caused much confusion and delay,
more especially as a multitude of cheques and counter-cheques,
the delight of small officials, were insisted upon. The guards
were dressed in a sort of military uniform, well buckled in at
312
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVI.
the waist. They gave themselves great airs, forbidding the very
smallest of portmanteaus to enter a carriage, but freely allowing
the most enormous sack. The carriages were very comfortable;
they were made in France, but upon the American car system—
containing washing-rooms, in which, however, there was no water.
At seven we started. The line is smooth, and appears firm.
The iron rails are brought from Belgium; the superintending
workmen and the machinery are English.
We passed through an immense forest, rank with vegetation,
and profusely luxuriant, but marshy and damp. In small
cleared spots the Indian corn grew freely; enormous vines in the
midst of the forest encircled the largest trees. With lofty
mountains on either side, at a distance of fifteen or twenty
miles, this close-wooded scenery continued until we reached the
town and port of Poti.
We came with certainty to one conclusion, that it was very
fortunate we had adopted in our journey the Caspian route, and
that we had travelled from the north through the Caucasian moun-
tains; for had we merely taken the rail from Poti, and returned
by the same route, which we were constantly recommended to
do, we should have lost all the interesting scenery and the
pleasant incidents which I have endeavoured to describe in the
previous chapters.
CHAPTER XLVII.
POTI AND ITS RAILWAY,
ABOUT half-past eleven we reached the terminus of the railway
at Poti, which is on the north side of the river Rion, and, having
hired a small boat and transferred our effects into it, we crossed
over to the town on the south side. Here we unfortunately
selected Jacob's hotel. We afterwards ascertained that we
should have done better had we gone to the Caucase. The rail-
way has already made a great change in the value of property at
Poti. That which was a few years since perfectly valueless now
bears a high price, and had Poti anything of a harbour there
can be no doubt but that it would soon become a large city. The
river Rion, which is by no means a large one, has a bar across
its mouth, which is so shallow that the breakers are at all times.
seen upon it, preventing entry or departure when there is any
wind and sea.
Every exertion should have been made by Russia to obtain
possession of the port of Batoum, about sixty miles to the south,
which is still in the hands of Turkey. If Russia, in the days of
Nicholas, had not bent all her thoughts on grasping conquest,
but had turned them to the development of commerce, possessing
such a magnificent territory as the Trans-Caucasus, she could,
I believe, have persuaded Turkey to surrender, either in exchange
or for direct payment, the harbour of Batoum, the natural
314
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. (CHAP. XLVII.
formation of which renders it capable of being casily im-
proved, so as to allow vessels of considerable size and tonnage to
enter at all times. But instead of this, Russia attempted by
force of arms to ruin Turkey, which in the sequel has thrown
back her own development. However, as regards Batoum it
may not even now be too late; and surely to endeavour peace-
ably to make some arrangement with Turkey to obtain this port,
which is of so much less value to her than to Russia, would be wiser
than to alarm her by expending large sums of money on warlike
preparations at Nicolaef, or on an ironclad steam fleet in the
Black Sea. Should Russia possess Batoum, she could easily con-
struct a railroad about fifteen or twenty miles inland to join that
which has been finished from Poti, and thus be in the posses-
sion of certain communications with the sea at all times. No
amount of expenditure can make Poti a port of certain entry. It
would be dangerous, therefore, to count too much upon the future
greatness of Poti, when so dangerous a rival as Batoum lies so
close to it.
The railway to Tiflis was, I understand, first undertaken by an
English company, which after some time got into difficulties, and
it was then proceeded with by a French company, which again in
its turn had to give place to another English one, which now,
with the assistance of the Russian government, bids fair to
complete it. A notice of the completion of the rail from
Poti to Tiflis has since appeared in the Times (October, 1872).
A large number of soldiers are placed at the disposal of the
engineers on working pay, which is very low, varying from a
small quantity of extra bread to sixpence per diem. The soldiers,
I was told, complained of this poor pay, and said that in many
instances their officers kept a portion of it; but I believe the
truth is that by the arrangements of their service a considerable
share of their working pay is placed in a regimental chest, for the
CHAP. XLVII.]
POTI AND ITS RAILWAY.
315
benefit of those who are performing military duties, whilst their
comrades do the work of artisans, etc., etc.-a very fair arrange-
ment. The native labourers generally were represented as both
weak and idle, and far inferior to our navvies.
The artisans also may be said to be far inferior to ours. A bet
was made that an English carpenter would, in twelve hours, do
more work at oak-post making than four native carpenters. They
commenced at six A.M. In ten hours and a half the Englishman
had finished thirty-four posts, the four natives having done only
thirty-one, and seeing they had no chance the latter gave in;
and thus upon the whole, although the English work at much
higher prices, yet they may be looked upon as not so expensive
as the natives, who are uncertain, and whose work is certainly
inferior.
It seems rather doubtful whether the railway will be a success
as an investment. The expense of constructing it will be enor-
mous. The sliding nature of the soil in the mountains through
which it passes will certainly cause much outlay and trouble;
and although doubtless when trade is shut off the common roads
it must adopt the rail, yet there are limits to this; for should the
expense of transit be increased, the Persian trade may then to a
large extent adopt the line of Erzeroom and Trebizonde, and thus
avoid the Russian territory entirely, which would cause a con-
siderable injury to Tiflis, as well as to the country generally.
Here, therefore, is the danger, for already the sum demanded for
two second-class tickets equals the price of posting the same dis-
tance for two persons in one carriage; and if the price of freight
should be charged in the same proportion, there will be no
encouragement given to this thrifty people to make use of the
rail in preference to the road.
The sickness amongst the English employed on the railway
works is indeed terrible; the low marshy lands of Imeritia,
316
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVII.
encumbered with forests, are a very hot-bed of fever, and a very.
large number are compelled every season to give in and return
home. Twenty-three engineers and sixteen artisans had died
during the last three years.
The natives generally are well behaved, and are as a rule much
afraid of our workmen ; but occasionally robberies, and even with
violence, are committed. A railway pay clerk told us that about
three weeks previously, his house had been broken into by a party
armed with swords. They were tempted by the knowledge of
his having a large sum of money for the purpose of paying off
certain workmen who were returning to England. Immediately
that the party had forced his door open, he fired his revolver at
the first man, and shot him in the stomach, and he fell forward
on the table; the rest then dashing on, threw a blanket over the
head of the clerk, and then searched every corner for the roubles.
In the meantime, a friend who was sleeping in the adjoining
room, was awakened by the sound of the pistol, and jumping up
rushed out of the house calling loudly for assistance. This
alarmed the robbers, who made off hastily, and without discover-
ing the money which had been hid in the stove pipe.
Poti on the whole is a most disagreeable, feverish place, with
nothing worthy of notice; it is so low that the Black Sea, although
close, cannot be seen from any part of the town. The swamps
which surround it throw out most dangerous fogs and agues, and
the houses are infested by noxious vermin, the most impure of
which are so common that the residents keep a wash ready
prepared to purify themselves from their attacks.
On the morning of our departure, I saw a fine brown bear skin
amongst the baggage of an Imeritian gentleman. I inquired
if he was a sportsman and had killed the animal. He said he
was very fond of the chase, and killed plenty of ducks and phea-
sants, and also quails; "but bears and wild boars I do not go
C
CHAP. XLVII.]
317
POTI AND ITS RAILWAY.
near, for they might kill me. When I want their skins or tusks
I buy them, for that is much safer."
The Imeritians seem a poor and mean-spirited race, other-
wise they would have made a better defence, and would not have
allowed their country to fall under the yoke of the stranger.
Although Mount Elbrutz is so far inland, yet owing to its
great height it can frequently be seen from Poti. On this
occasion, however, the weather was unfortunately too clouded
and overcast to enable us to see it.
•
On the 24th September we entered a small steamer of very
light draught of water, which was to take us over the bar of
the river Rion and convey us to Batoum, where we should be
again transferred into one of the Russian Company's steam-ships
for conveyance to Constantinople. Our boat was named to sail
at ten o'clock; but in consequence of the examination of pass-
ports and police formalities, it was two P.M. before we left the
quay. While we were waiting the departure of the boat, we
were surprised to see our friend and fellow-traveller, Viscount
Figanière, who, hearing we were in Poti, had sought us out. He,
however, could not accompany us on our visit to the southern
shores of the Black Sea, but came to bid us farewell before he
started by the northern shores on his return to St. Petersburg.
He told us that when he left us at Astrakhan, he ascended the
Volga to Nijni-Novgorod, and made a most interesting inspection
of the fair; but learning that the best time for travelling in the
mountains of the Caucasus was the autumn, and rather repenting
his not having accompanied us, he again descended the river and
arrived a second time at Astrakhan. Thence he followed the
exact route we had taken, but much more rapidly, until he
arrived at Tiflis; and hearing on the road, from some railway
engineers, that we were but a short distance in advance, he
found us, just as we were actually on board and on the point of
318
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVII.
departure. He had accomplished the whole tour from Petrolvks
through Daghestan and the Dariel to Tiflis and Poti in sixteen
days. Holding the position of ambassador, he had been furnished
with a courier-padarogna-without which so rapid a journey
would have been simply impossible. We compared notes as far
as the few minutes of his stay on board would permit. He was
most interested with our accounts of what he had not seen-
Erivan, Mount Ararat, and the Convent of Etchmiazin.
CHAPTER XLVIII.
TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS.
We had now been thirty-seven days in the Caucasus, during
which time we had travelled 1340 versts. We had traversed
Daghestan and the Lesghian mountains almost from one end to
the other—a country scarcely known more than by name in
Europe. We had seen some of the most magnificent scenery
and some of the highest mountains in the world, and the view of
Ararat and Kasbec was enough to repay us for our toil, and to
console us for our want of time to visit Elbrutz. I believe it
would have been difficult to have seen more than we did during
the period we were in the country, nor did any circumstances
cause us to regret the line of travel which, in a great measure,
chance and good fortune had caused us to pursue.
Before
leaving, therefore, this beautiful and interesting country, I will
here add a few remarks on travelling in it, hoping that they may
be of use to any future traveller in a country so little known.
Four questions embody the usual inquiries of persons contem-
plating this tour. First, What is the best season of the year for
it? Secondly, What is the best route to enter the country by?
Thirdly, What time is required? and, Fourthly, What is the
expense? I could myself obtain no satisfactory answers to these
questions either in England or at Constantinople. I was told
that in summer the heat of Tiflis was insupportable, and the
320
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVIN.
forests of Imeritia, through which we must pass, so deadly, that
it was impossible to travel through them without danger of fever.
But to reach the country by northern routes was a mystery which
no one that I met could unravel.
Having now accomplished this feat, and having gained no
little experience, I have no hesitation in saying, in answer to
these questions, first, that the late summer or autumn is the best
season; secondly, that the route by the Caspian and Petrolvks is
the best entrance; thirdly, that the college vacation of four
months is sufficient for a rapid, but not too hurried tour; and,
fourthly, that the expense is not greater than for the same time
in any other part of Europe. I have formed these opinions on the
following grounds :-First, during the summer, when the heat in
Tiflis and the Crimea is quite unbearable, the weather in the
mountain ranges of Lesghia and in all Daghestan is delightfully
cool and agreeable. The mountains, covered with perpetual snow,
temper the atmosphere of the whole country and render travelling
during the hottest part of the day not only bearable but pleasant.
The autumn has, moreover, other advantages. The sky is
generally clearer and more free from rain than in the spring, so
that the views are more distinct and the rivers are not rendered
difficult or impassable; it is also the best season for large game
shooting. Secondly, the route by the Caspian is the best, because
it enables the traveller to see a good deal of Southern Russia
and the Crimea, a point of great interest to an Englishman, also
a large portion of the Cossack country on the Don, the Volga,
the singular city of Astrakhan, and the Caspian Sea; besides
enabling him to enter at once upon the mountain ranges of
Daghestan-the most interesting portion of the country-without
previous exposure to the enormous heat of the Trans-Caucasus
or the fevers of the forests of Imeritia. Thirdly, that four months
are sufficient to take a fair view of the country, I trust the previous
CHAP. XLVIII.] TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS.
321
chapters have demonstrated, including, as they do, a visit to Con-
stantinople and the Crimea. A more lengthened period would,
doubtless, be preferable, as it would give an opportunity of
visiting the springs of Petigorse, and Mount Elbrutz, and,
perhaps, Bakoo, or of making a run into Persia. In that case
I should recommend the traveller to start in May and to proceed
by Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and Northern Russia, then pass-
ing down the Volga to reach Astrakhan about the end of July ;
thence by the Caspian to Petrolvks, and thus to give up August
and September to Daghestan and the Cis-Caucasus, including a
visit to Petigorse and Elbrutz, and then passing through the Dariel
Pass at the beginning of October, to give that month and possibly
November to the Trans-Caucasus or southern side of the moun-
tains, and thence to return viâ Poti and the Crimea to Odessa.
Fourthly, that the cost of such a tour need not exceed what
would be required in any other part of Europe, is proved by our
own case, for although we enjoyed every comfort to be obtained,
yet the expenses of each, from the time of leaving England to
our return a period of one hundred and twenty-four days—
amounted to only £136 8s. 3d.
This kind of information travellers are generally very unwilling
to impart; but I consider it a valuable detail, and one without
which many men might be deterred from entering upon a tour
somewhat novel in its character. We invariably went to the
best hotels, and travelled in the best steamboats, and very seldom
in the second class on railroads; in posting we never took less
than three horses, and occasionally five.
The Caucasus being so little known, I trust it will not be con-
sidered tedious if I give some further general information as
regards travelling in that country and in Southern Russia.
In Daghestan the only satisfactory way of travelling is on
horseback; and arrangements could certainly be made either in
Y
322
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVIII.
Petrolvks or in Temir-han-Tsura to hire horses by the month. I
must, however, impress upon the stranger the necessity of exer-
cising the utmost vigilance in recording his bargain on paper, in
presence of some of the authorities before starting. On reaching
Grosnia, posting will be preferable for the rest of the stay in the
Caucasus, and if he could there purchase a strong and sound
tarantasse with a hood, I should recommend him to do so. It will
then be left to his own inventive genius to improve its comforts,
by means of rope scats, etc. This carriage he will eventually
part with, probably at Tiflis, and, it may be hoped, without very
considerable loss. If the intention is to remain any time.
in the mountains, for the purpose, for instance, of following
large game, then a small tent should form part of the equi-
page; in any case, however, a strongly-made English saddle
should be taken, and also a strong basket containing a few
tin plates, cups, and a saucepan or two, teapot, etc., with a
supply, in a separate well-made box, of preserved soup-
Liebig and preserved vegetables, chocolate, all in a concentrated
form, and a supply of Cognac. Sugar, macaroni, and rice can be
procured in the villages, and tea should be bought, from time to
time, in the larger towns,
G
Some simple medicines arc on no account to be forgotten, espe-
cially a supply of quinine; and, if a considerable stay in the
wilder parts is contemplated, it is desirable to know that the bread
is unleavened, and therefore a small supply of English baking-
powder and some slight instruction as to using it before starting,
would be of great service. A supply of knicknacks, especially
if they be of steel ware, for small presents, may occasionally
smooth the way to obtain what even money would fail to purchase.
In regard to bedding, it must be borne in mind that throughout
Russia everyone carries with him, as a standing rule, a good-
sized soft pillow, and generally his bedding also. The usual
CHAP. XLVIII.]
TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS.
323
comforts of home must be ignored, and a good-sized macintosh
cloak and a thick rug be adopted; and if, in addition to this, a
pair of Indian drawers, as a substitute for sheets, and a Persian
carpet for a mattress are taken, everything that is requisite, and
that can be carried without great impediment, will be at hand.
In the majority of the hotels in Southern Russia, except in the
capital cities, neither sheets nor towels are supplied-the charge
for the apartment does not include them; and if asked for, even
on payment, they are not always forthcoming. For baggage I
recommend two strong portmanteaus, with strong linen bags to
cover them, and with loops to enable them to be attached together
and slung over the baggage horse. A strong cotton umbrella and
a macintosh sheet must not be omitted.
Tweed or light woollen clothing should always be used; and I
should observe that an easy blue cloth frock coat and dark
trousers will be useful articles of dress, resembling the costume.
worn by the Russians on occasions of hospitality, when the
shooting coat, which is adopted at all times by some of our tra-
vellers, would not be understood; and, as the Russians invariably
dress in uniform, they might justly consider it a slight, were no
other costume used at dinner than the rough shooting coat.
In all hotels a large samovar is placed in a position of easy
access, a trifling charge being made for its use; and the usual
practice is for every one to possess his own tea and teapot, and to
purchase for himself the bread or biscuit he requires for his early
breakfast. At the posting-houses, generally, no regular dinner
can be procured, the food for this must be brought or purchased
as best you can—a little black bread, with milk and eggs, can
usually be bought, but even these not always. The samovar is
universally to be had, and the only furniture is a hard wooden
couch, a table, and some common chairs. For this reason, there-
fore, it is requisite at all times to be prepared with a supply of
Y 2
324
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVIII.
tea, sugar, bread, or good biscuits, and any other luxuries that
may be considered desirable; the strong travelling basket above
recommended will carry these.
I need not impress upon anyone, who knows what travelling is,
the benefits he will derive from ingratiating himself with the
authorities, or how useful good letters of recommendation may
prove to him; or, again, the absolute necessity there is for the
constant exercise of the virtue of patience. I consider the Russians
to be the best-tempered nation in the world, and the readiest to
help strangers. The lower classes are dull, inactive, and very
unintelligent, and sometimes with them it is by no means a bad
plan to pretend to lose one's temper, which, so far from making
them lose theirs, has generally the effect of quickening and
sharpening their movements. The Circassians and also the
Georgians are entirely different, and will sometimes resent a
slight injury with the dagger. The Turks, on the other hand,
if you show anger will set you down as a foreign madman, and
will leave you to help yourself in your difficulties.
In travelling the utmost amount of patience will sometimes be
called into requisition, on account of detentions in regard to
post-horses. The word, "Sichas-Sichas," directly" "in-
stantly," will be again and again repeated, meaning anything or
nothing. The traveller may see many carriages arrive subse-
quently to his own, and get supplied with horses before him;
these may, possibly, have government orders, but, in any case,
his best method is to be diplomatic and court the favour of the
postmaster; but if he can obtain special letters, by all means let
him do so.
66
J
Russian gentlemen generally possess their own travelling car-
riages, which they keep for the especial purpose of posting. This
carriage is a strong britzka, fixed upon long poles or perches-the
longer and more springy these poles are the casier the carriage
CHAP. XLVIII.]
325
TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS.
rides. But for those who do not possess their own, the post pro-
vides carts. These are of two kinds-the tarantasse, a cart fitted
on pliant poles, and sometimes with a cover, and the pericodinia,
an open cart, resembling the half of a large barrel cut longitudi-
nally, and fixed strongly on to the wheels. They are much rougher
than any private carriage, because they are much shorter and, there-
fore, have less spring on their poles, or perches. As the perico-
dinia must be changed at every stage, a low shifting seat might
rudely be arranged to be used with any cart, since these carts have
no seat provided, a network of rope being generally substituted;
but it is very troublesome to have to renew this at cach stage.
This or any other substitute for springs must, however, entirely
depend upon the intelligence of the traveller. No one could
believe how little inventive power the Russians possess. They
seem perfectly incapable either of invention or improvement in
machinery, and for mechanism of all kinds they depend upon
western Europe. As a proof of this I may adduce the fact,
that scarcely ever has a patent been taken out by any Russian.
Yet it is a singular fact that they are very conceited, and imagine
that no nation can excel them in the arts and sciences.
The horses are all taught to travel without blinkers. They
perfectly understand the commands of the driver by voice, and
generally three horses are harnessed abreast. Travellers are
sometimes specially permitted to take post-horses off the regular
line, and keep them for one or more days' journey, but such a
permission is very exceptional. In addition to the modes of
travelling above spoken of, there is another which, however, is
comparatively very expensive, that of hiring from the govern-
ment a special carriage and courier. This costs about five times
as much as the common posting, and is seldom employed except
by large families going to or returning from the mineral waters
or other summer excursions.
-
326
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVIII.
I have entered somewhat into detail upon the above
subject in consequence of the great difficulties which we at
first met with from a want of knowledge respecting it. As
regards a knowledge of the Russian language it is possible
to travel without it, but I do not conceal the fact that it is
far more agrecable to be accompanied by an interpreter. Το
travel without a considerable fluency in French I consider would
be very irksome, if not impossible, for with the exception of His
Imperial Highness the Grand Duke we met no Russian between
Petrolvks on the Caspian and Tiflis who could converse in the
English language, and although we made every endeavour in
London before starting to procure a Russian and English vocabu-
lary, we were unable to do so. Surely some one acquainted with
both languages will supply this deficiency.
At present there is but one railroad in the Caucasus, that from
Poti to Tiflis. About one-third of the entire distance, or about
seventy miles, was at that time completed and open for traffic.
Since our return the whole has been completed and opened. Other
lines are in contemplation, and when any of them are finished
an immense assistance will be afforded to the traveller; and these
magnificent mountains will no longer remain unvisited and un-
known. As for hotels in southern Russia I may say they are
inferior to all others in Europe. They are dirty to an incredible
degrec, and none of the rooms are fitted with the commonest
articles of bed-room furniture. If after a dusty drive you desire
to wash, a dirty waiter will bring a basin the size of a sugar
bowl, and a ewer the size of a cream-jug, and holding one in
cach hand, he offers to pour a few drops over your fingers, with
which apology for a wash you are expected to be satisfied. As
far as my experience goes, there is not a bathing tub in southern
Russia, while every hotel swarms with little animals that cause
you to remember the sleepless nights you were compelled to
CHAP. XLVIII.]
327
TRAVELLING IN THE CAUCASUS.
endure. The cuisine universally is of the most indigestible kind,
compelling the traveller to depend in a great measure upon tea
and biscuits. The charges in most of the hotels are excessive,
and sometimes extortionate. The servants are a very bad lot,
lazy, very dirty, and prompt to tell lies; and few can imagine
how uncleanly they are, until they have been compelled to depend
upon their services. I wish I could write more favourably, but
I am bound to say the truth, and 'painful experience (excepting
at the Hôtel de l'Europe at Tiflis, which has all the qualities
of a good hotel) have forced these facts upon me. Railroads
and communication with the people of western Europe, will no
doubt gradually cure a great many of these evils, as soon as they
become perceptible to the bulk of the educated community itself.
There is no nation in the world who can bear discomforts of
travel and rough it so well as the Russians. Long habit has no
doubt reconciled them to this, but when they are shown how
casily these evils may be remedied by a small amount of industry
and circumspection, and how valuable is the practice of cleanli-
ness and decency, they no doubt will follow the more polished
countries, where these virtues are so highly esteemed and uni-
versally practised.
As I am very desirous that this volume should be found useful
in smoothing the path to future travellers, I have added in an
appendix certain posting tables, most of which I have selected, as
far as the regular posting roads existed, from the Imperial Post-
ing Guide. In respect to the other roads the distances and posting
fees are given according to the prices paid by us.
It might be argued, that where a postal guide exists I need
not trouble my readers with these extracts; but it must be borne
in mind that the guide is in the Russian language, and that it
is exceedingly difficult to find any one with sufficient patience to
assist the traveller in translating the names of all these posting
328
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLVIII.
stations, and also to do, what he assuredly could not travel
without doing, carefully write out every station, and its dis-
tance on the line he intended to take. This labour of some
hours was kindly undertaken for me by Mr. Rice, and I was
very grateful to him for it; it proved of inestimable value to us
when paying for our horses, or calculating our time and dis-
tances; and I cannot but believe it will prove equally useful to
other travellers,
CHAPTER XLIX.
GEORGIA UNDER THE RUSSIANS.
THE rise in the value of property in the government of the
Caucasus, within the last few years, is quite extraordinary.
Land, which in Tiflis was sold some years since by the acre, is
now sold by the yard, the yard now realising the former price of
the acre.
After the occupation of the country by the Russians, the
Georgians could not understand or appreciate the good fortune
which made everything belonging to them positively their
own, and, like all Orientals, being more ready to imitate the
vices than the virtues of their masters, they entered into all
sorts of extravagancies, the cost of which could only be met by the
sacrifice of their fortunes and their lands. Their wives also, not
content with their former rich and beautiful costumes, were
fain to adopt those of Parisian modistes; and good Madame
Bott was ready enough to indulge them, and supply them with
articles at her own prices, on the simple condition of their hus-
bands countersigning their orders. When the day of reckoning
arrived, then their fair lands, once so wild and valueless, were
sacrificed to their debts of folly, and, by their extravagance,
Madame has been enabled to return to Paris, to live, it is said,
in luxury, and even magnificence; her splendid silver plate and
Oriental salvers and goblets being the envy of all beholders.
330
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIX.
Besides this, very large tracts of land were confiscated for
rebellion, and were either sold for the benefit of the State or
were presented to deserving officers; and thus, after the last great
war, the stability of the Government being insured, trade in-
creasing, and Shamyl conquered, the value of land increased with
astonishing rapidity.
Glady
Besides the lands in the Trans-Caucasus, I may mention the
vast tracts north of the mountains, especially those on the Kuban
river, which are reported to be of prodigious luxuriance. This
country used to be continually ravaged by the Circassians,
but now that tranquillity prevails, these lands are being cul-
tivated, and repay most bountifully the labour bestowed upon
them.
Again, near Taman, on the straits of Yenikali, great natural
riches have been discovered-in coal mines as well as naphtha
springs. Neither of these are as yet fully developed, but they
will no doubt, ere long, be rendered most profitable.
Towards Stravapol, and in the vicinity of Vladicavcas, as-
tonishing progress is being made in agriculture. Prince Mirsky
informed me that his brother this year refused fifty thousand
roubles for an estate which, two years previously, he had pur-
chased for twenty-five thousand.
As regards commercial pursuits, the French in Tiflis have long
taken the lead, and, singularly enough, although there are
no foreign goods more in request than those from England,
yet I do not know of a single English mercantile house in the
country.
The walnut wood trade, which is very extensive-the forests of
Imeritia in the neighbourhood of Poti abounding in beautiful
timber of this kind, has been monopolised by the French, who
have turned it to great profit in their fabrics at Marseilles,
shaving the walnut wood into fine vencers.
The intelligent and
CHAP. XLIX.] GEORGIA UNDER THE RUSSIANS.
331
industrious Monsieur Hervieu, the correspondent of Messrs.
Coutts, is reported to be rapidly making a noble fortune.
Of course, speculations by foreigners occasionally meet with
discouragement, as Mr. R., an élève of Prince Waronzoff, and son
of the builder of the beautiful palace at Alupka, in the Crimea,
can testify. He was induced, after some persuasion, to set up
a steam saw-mill in Tiflis. He brought out many artificers
from home, made contracts for supplying sawn timber, and,
through his command of machinery, it was clearly seen that the
market was falling into his hands. But, alas, one bright sum-
mer morning his visions of wealth, together with his mill,
vanished into thin air. The native sawyers, taking alarm, and
fearing their occupation would be gone, determined on the
destruction of the mill. A small box of matches soon rendered
it a thing of the past. The sawyers returned to their saw-pits,
and Mr. R. was deprived in a few minutes of the profits of a
long and laborious life.
In addition to the products of the country, such as silk, cotton,
tobacco, and wine—all of which are increasing immensely—the
metals, such as silver, copper, and iron are receiving much atten-
tion; and morcover a considerable trade in horses is springing up
those bred in Georgia within the Russian territory are said to
possess as fine blood as any in Persia, or indeed in Arabia; and
those from the Kuban, which are principally for draught, are
extremely docile as well as hardy. I should think from what I
have seen of the horses from the frontiers of Persia that a profit-
able speculation might be made by purchasing them for the
English market, and taking them home in the vessels which now
carry out iron for the railroads to that country. This I believe
to be by no means so difficult an enterprise as might be imagined.
The native population of the mountains in Lesghia and all
Daghestan has probably decreased in number since the Russian
332
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. XLIX. ·
conquest in 1858, a great many of the Mahomedans having
elected to emigrate to Turkey, taking up their residence near
Varna and other places in Bulgaria; so great indeed has this
exodus been, that it has been computed, and I believe upon good
authority, that more than five hundred thousand have emigrated
into Turkey alone. This cannot be on account of the exactions
of the Russian Government, for no country can be more lightly
taxed, the only direct impost being that of one rouble, or about
two shillings and eightpence, upon each house or family. The
road service, the only one they are compelled to give gratuitously,
is the only obligation which can be considered heavy and
oncrous; but as road-making is a perfect passion with the
Russians, and is carried to an extraordinary extent in this moun-
tainous country, it forms a very painful burden upon the
inhabitants.
Otak
I believe that there are still many parts of the Western Cau-
casus into which the Russians have as yet not penetrated; to call
this country, however, unconquered would be an error, and yet it
would be incorrect to consider the inhabitants under perfect sub-
jection, since even now the troops cannot march through parts of it.
The fact is that the natural fortresses, such as mountains, ravines,
and crags possess, if possible, greater capabilities of defence in the
country west of Elbrutz than even in Daghestan; and it is possible
that Russia, after the heavy experience of thirty years' war in the
Caucasus, may deem it wiser to let circumstances take their
course, in the reasonable hope that trade may gradually accom-
plish in silence that which the sword could only effect after
an immense loss of blood and treasure, and a vast amount of
misery.
I related to some Russian officers the policy we pursued in the
East under similar circumstances, where we have used our best
endeavours to keep out of mountain wars, such as those with the
CHAP. XLIX.]
333
GEORGIA UNDER THE RUSSIANS.
fanatical Swat and Bonair tribes, exemplifying our policy, to
their great amusement, by saying that in India we had a rich fruit
with a very hard shell;-I alluded to the fine plains of India,
bounded by her rugged line of mountains, and that we contented
ourselves by fattening on the fruit, and leaving the shell as much
as possible alone, adding that, whenever we meddled with the
latter, we were quite sure to regret it.
As regards the question of the advances of Russia on Constan-
tinople I do not believe there is much danger of this-at least for
the present. Russia is now using every endeavour to perfect her
system of railroads, and consolidate her outlying provinces.
Moreover, there is a large party, especially in the north, who do
not view the annexation of Constantinople with any pleasure or
satisfaction. They fear that St. Petersburg, like Turin to Rome,
would have to give place to the beautiful and charmingly-situated
Queen of the Bosphorus, and that the interests of old Russia in
the more sterile north would be postponed to those of the
luxuriant and fruitful south. But still I think it behoves the
Turk to keep a cautious eye in a northern direction, and certainly
not to facilitate the approaches of his ancient enemy by placing
any temptation in his path, as, for example, by permitting iron-
clads made at St. Petersburg, or purchased from foreign countries,
to pass the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus into the Black Sea.
P
CHAPTER L.
THE RUSSIAN ARMY.
:
THE armies of Russia are supposed in peace time to consist of
thirty-three thousand officers, and eight hundred thousand men ;
in war time of forty thousand officers and one million two hundred
thousand men. Of this army about one-tenth is artillery, and
one-fortieth pioneers. This seems an enormous force; but taking
into consideration the size of the Russian dominions, and the uses
to which the troops are put, the numbers do not appear excessive.
The countries in which certain of these troops are stationed secm
in a measure fixed, and neither regiments nor officers are, like
ours, continually shifting. The Russian army, in addition to
being at all times prepared for war, is also always employed upon
military works, and thus the government, in return for feeding
and clothing their soldiers, and a trifle for daily pay, gain the
work which otherwise would cost them a very considerable outlay.
The soldiers of the army of the Caucasus are employed as
masons, sawyers, carpenters, blacksmiths, painters, bricklayers;
they make their own clothing as tailors and as shoemakers; they
collect their own forage as haymakers, bring in from the forest on
their own carts, and with their own horses, the wood they con-
sume, and the turf which they have cut and collected. Thus
this army is almost entirely independent of civil labour. Their
military exercises are by no means neglected or lost sight
CHAP. L.]
THE RUSSIAN ARMY.
335
of in their civil employments; but the entire time of the soldier
is not divided, as in most European armies, between learning war
and enjoying pleasure, and the civilian artisan has not been
taught to think that the rights of civil labour are invaded by the
soldier being trained to do things for himself.
The present
term of service to a conscript is eight years, and very few
soldiers re-engage. This comparatively short service is not
approved of by the officers, who complain, like ours, that they
lose their best men just when they become most efficient soldiers,
and that the government have thus a double loss, losing both
good soldiers and good artificers. The country generally, however,
must gain immensely by having each year nearly one hundred.
thousand young men distributed throughout it, who for the last
eight years have been taught obedience, habits of order, and
industry, and instructed in some particular trade, able also at any
moment to turn out and strengthen their armies, should the
occasion for their services arise.
It is very difficult to state the numbers of the Russian troops in
the Caucasus at the present time, accounts differing by many
thousands; but I am inclined to believe they may amount to
about one hundred and fifty thousand men, and, in addition, they
have a large number of Cossacks on the Kuban, and a very large
number of native militia all over the country, which latter act as a
sort of military police-a prodigious army for the size and present
position of this country; but as they consider it requisite still to
build forts, barracks, and other public works, and employ their
military labour for this purpose, this large force represents both
army and public workmen.
The private soldiers of the army are paid at the same rate as
the soldiers in other parts of Russia, but the officers receive about
one half more, and consequently the service to them is much
more popular in the Caucasus.
336
[CHAP. I.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
In the distribution of decorations the Russians are considered
by some to be too lavish, lessening their consideration by their
profuseness. I, however, only met but one instance in which a
pretence to despise them was evinced; and their general appre-
ciation appears from the fact that the Russians wear their
decorations more frequently than we do, among whom they are
more sparingly distributed.
In order not to offend the religious prejudices of the Mahom-
edans, when considered worthy of the Cross of St. George, or
other Christian decoration, they give them their choice as to the
form in which it shall be made, whether a cross or a medal, a
plan which might be followed with advantage in the case of our
Mahomedan troops in the East.
And now let me state in a few words the opinions I formed
upon the Russians themselves. The Russians whom we met
were of three distinct classes; first, the military officers and Civil
Government officials; secondly, the middle-class shopkeepers,
hotel keepers, and lower Government officials; and lastly, the
extreme lower class, such as horsekeepers, drotzky drivers, and
tarantasse post-boys. The first class I consider to be the
most agreeable, hospitable, and pleasant foreigners I have ever
met. The second class are servile to their superiors, or
those who they think stand in estimation with their superiors;
somewhat overbearing to any whose resentment they consider
there is no cause to fear; avaricious in their demands upon
a stranger, and not always anxious to assist him.
The third class are, I consider, on the whole the lowest class
of peasantry that I have met with in Europe; they seem more
coarse in their manners, more slavish in their address, and possess
less intelligence than any people I have yet met with; indeed,
the dull stupidity of the lower order of Russians is quite remark-
able; at the same time I think it but fair to add that I believe
CHAP. L.]
337
THE RUSSIAN ARMY.
the Russian peasant to be the best-tempered man alive—nothing
seems to put him into ill-humour, nothing to excite him; but if
by chance such should occur, in a very short time he again
relapses into his former docile and phlegmatic state.
In the above remarks, great allowance must be made for our
want of knowledge of their language and customs. This was
entirely neutralised with the first class by the medium of French
and a general habit of good breeding, but it naturally acted as a
bar to much intercourse with the two others. The lower-class
Russians appear resolute and very persevering, slavishly obedient
to their superiors, and very patriotic-qualities most valuable in
war. The qualities of the upper classes, as regards bravery and
perseverance, I need not dwell upon-by the British army they
are universally recognised and admired; every one who served
in the Crimean campaign considered it an honour to be arrayed
against such heroic enemies.
As regards the peasant class of Georgia and the Tartars gene-
rally, they are infinitely quicker and more intelligent, but possess
many other qualities, which render it desirable that too much
dependence should not be placed upon them.
Z
CHAPTER LI.
SPORTING IN THE CAUCASUS.
I CANNOT leave the Caucasus without alluding to the subject
of sporting; but I recommond all those who do not take a very
lively interest in this matter to skip over the few following pages.
Upon this subject I must own that I failed to elicit such full
and satisfactory information as I endeavoured to obtain.
Sporting in the Caucasus may be divided into four heads-
stalking in the highest mountain ranges for the ibex; stalking
in the somewhat lower ranges and in the mountain forests for
the royal stag; tracking the smaller deer, or having both them
and the wild boar driven; and lastly, small game shooting in all
its branches.
Stalking in a wild mountain range, as in the Caucasus or
in the Himalayas, is full of difficulty and labour; but the re-
collection of the most moderate success gives years of delight
and satisfaction, quite beyond the comprehension of a sportsman
who has never had the opportunity of entering into it. Driving
the forest for the smaller deer or wild boar can seldom, if ever,
be enjoyed at home, and therefore, from its novelty, will fre-
quently afford great pleasure; and small game shooting, with the
immense success which it is sure to meet with in these countries
if well managed, will cause astonishment and delight to those
CHAP. LI.]
339
SPORTING IN THE CAUCASUS.
who have been accustomed at home to slave for five or six hours
before they could obtain as many brace of birds.
As regards, then, the ibex, from the diligent inquiries which I
made, and from the number of horns which I saw at Bodlith and
its vicinity, I am inclined to believe that they exist in considerable
numbers in that neighbourhood, especially in the mountain ranges
about fifty or one hundred miles to the south. This country is
in the heart of Daghestan, and comprises a snowy range of
immense altitude, and well suited to them. Some may also be
found to the south of Borjome and the south of Erivan, not far
from Mount Ararat. It is not quite the same animal as the
Himalayan ibex, but is somewhat smaller.
The Royal Stag or red deer I know to exist near to the west
of Bodlith, which is the Lesghian district, and here Englishmen
would, I have every reason to believe, be received with every
attention by the natives and by the superior Russian officers.
The information I received from Grosnia makes me feel certain
that royal stags in large numbers are also to be found still farther
towards the forests of the west, and to the south of Wedden;
but they are here obtained not by the legitimate and difficult art
of stalking, but by surrounding a large district of country and
shooting them on their runs; and this plan, I believe, is followed
in the wooded districts about Borjome and Elbrutz. I was in,
formed that San-Clauda, near Bo-chook, about sixty versts
distant from Bodlith, was looked upon as vory good ground.
The smaller deer and wild boar are to be found in immense
quantities in all the wooded ranges, near Grosnia, Nichailoff, and
from thence towards the south of Wedden, also on the western
side of the River Terek, and, in short, in all the wooded part of
Circassia. Small game shooting is to be met with throughout
the whole of the grounds at the base of the mountains, but the
best district for this sport, I believe, would be Grosnia, and from
Z 2
340
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS. [CHAP. LI.
thence to Vladicavcas, where partridges, woodcocks, and hares
are very numerous, and snipes and ducks swarm by thou-
sands.
I have not alluded to bears, for although they certainly exist
in large numbers, yet from the appearance of these immense
forests, there must be the greatest uncertainty in the prosecution
of this sport. Neither have I spoken of tigers, which are met
with, but rarely, near Lenkoran; but to go there in the hope of
shooting them would probably end in a loss of time. Pheasants,
I am told, exist in great numbers on the Kuban, on which river
the Don Cossacks have lately made extensive settlements from
Stravopol towards Taman. I look, therefore, upon Bodlith as a
good base from which a start should be made for large game
shooting, and Grosnia as the place in which arrangements could
best be made, either for beating the forests for decr or wild boar,
or as a starting point for small game shooting.
Borjome, and the neighbourhood of his Imperial Highness's
summer palace, must be looked upon as a royal proserve for the
Grand Duke and his Imperial friends.
To a person entering the Caucasus by Poti there might be a
temptation to linger in the woods and marshes of Imeritia,
where exist such perfect cover for woodcocks and wet jeels for
ducks; and, moreover, the traveller would meet with many
English gentlemen employed in the railway, who would be sure
to give him their best assistance, but he must always bear in
mind the deadliness of the climate, and that very extensive woods,
though they no doubt shelter an enormous amount of game, yet
greatly increase the difficulty of obtaining them.
A sportsman bent upon stalking should not reach Bodlith later
than the beginning of August; thus he would obtain two months
sport in the highest mountains, whose summits are perpetually
covered with snow. Circumstances, then, would dictate to him
CHAP. LI.
341
SPORTING IN THE CAUCASUS.
the
proper time to descend upon Grosnia for smaller sport, and
by leaving the Caucasus in the late autumn, by way of Astrakhan,
a lover of duck shooting, prepared to rough it on the small
islands at the mouth of the River Volga, might kill such an
amount of wild fowl as would probably satisfy him for the rest of
his life.
With regard to fishing I obtained even less reliable information
than with regard to shooting. I could meet no one who really
practised the art. If it be true that there is a description of
salmon existing in the Kuron, no doubt they are to be caught, if
not with flies, certainly with bait, and if they are of the size
mentioned, namely, from forty to sixty pounds, they could not
fail to give very great sport. This fish may be a description of
the Marseer, found in the Punjaub in India, and if so, a fisher-
man need not despise them. I can have no doubt about the fine
large trout in Lake Gotcha, because we bought and eat some,
and found them very good. So far back as the time of Marco
Polo they are described as existing there, but whether they are in
the rivers Kuron and Terek, or not, I failed to make out, although
I tried hard to obtain sound information, and whether they will
take fly or bait was quite beyond my power of discovery.
The above information on sporting must be taken for what it is
worth, and as the result of such imperfect information as I was
able to clicit on this subject. The real truth is, that sporting,
as we accept it, especially large game shooting, is not well
understood. In that country few people will undergo the hard-
ships and privations which Englishmen will voluntarily accept
to secure what most foreigners consider so disproportionate a
reward.
It is important to remark that constant vigilance must be exer-
cised both in regard to arms and ammunition, and as little
dependence as possible placed upon anyone in respect of taking
342
[CHAP. LI.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
charge of either of them. Under proper management I do not
believe any difficulties with the authorities would arise with regard
to the possession of gunpowder, provided it were packed in proper
cases, and not concealed from their knowledge. Indeed it might
be desirable frequently to ask them to take charge of it.
In regard to carrying arms of defence, probably no occasion
would arise for their use; but it is as well to remember that the
whole people of the Caucasus are always armed, and it would be
wise to adopt the habit of carrying a small revolver and a decr
knife on a belt in the most convenient position round the waist.
I now return to our departure from the Caucasus by the way
of the Black Sea.
CHAPTER LII.
ON THE BLACK SEA, HOMEWARDS.
EMBARKED in the small river steamer, we had an uncom-
fortable rolling passage to Batoum. The native gentlemen, Per-
sians and Turks, strewed the deck in the most helpless confusion,
showering invectives on the troubled Euxine. At 6 P.M. we
ran into the harbour of Batoum, the first Turkish town on its
eastern side. This is one of the most lovely-looking places on
the face of the globe. The town, which stands on a neck of land,
is composed of houses of the Eastern type, interspersed with the
high minarets of mosques. The background displays the most
lovely green-wooded hills, rising one behind the other, until they
blend into magnificent mountains tipped with snow, the points of
which are so curiously shaped as to give them a most picturesque
appearance. Batoum cannot properly be said to have a harbour,
as it is in a measure open to the north; but had the Turkish
Government the smallest amount of energy, they might, at a
comparatively small expense, make this one of the best harbours
in the Black Sea.
At Batoum we had a narrow escape of a quarantine of ten
days, which Turkey had established against the Caucasus and the
Sea of Azof, in consequence of the cholera existing at Kertch.
This quarantine was interrupted in the following singular way、
About a week before our arrival, Mr. Wilkinson, the British
344
[CHAP. LII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
consul, landing from Poti, was put in quarantine in a tent on the
sca-shore, under the protection of guards. During the night his
carpet-bag was cut open, and a portion of his wearing-apparel
purloined. The property was traced into the town of Batoum.
Mr. Wilkinson at once appealed to the authorities, and, in con-
junction with the Russian officials, who were also annoyed by the
quarantine regulation, demanded that as infected goods had gone
into the town, so the whole town, equally with himself, should
now be placed in quarantine. This common-sense argument
was unanswerable, and as he pressed it, the only resource
which the Turkish authorities had, was to enfranchise the Cauca-
sus for the time being; and thus, by this lucky accident of the
plunder of the consul's carpet-bag, we escaped being detained for
at least ten days in a wretched tent on the shores of the Black
Sea, with armed guards around us, ready and willing to shoot us
if we broke bounds.
why
Batoum is said to be as feverish and unhealthy as it is beauti-
ful, owing to the woods, the rain, and the want of ventilation. It
is the nearest sca-port town to the fort of Kars, to which, it is
said, there are no roads for arabas or carts, but only a horse track,
over rugged mountains. Possibly this was the reason that Omer
Pasha, when he made a descent on the coast, landed at Sookum-
kali rather than at Batoum. Could he have reached the be-
leaguered city from this place, he might have been able to raise
the siege, and have saved Kars and its defenders (among them
General Williams and Colonel Lake) from falling into the hands
of Russia. We had no time to walk on shore, nor any occasion
to regret it, for Batoum, like most Turkish towns, is, I under-
stand, more picturesque from the outside than interesting from
within.
C
On the following morning we found ourselves anchored oppo-
site the town of Trebizonde. The situation in which this town is
CHAP. LIL]
345
ON THE BLACK SEA, HOMEWARDS.
QUATRE
G
placed, and the scenery which surrounds it, are nearly as beauti-
ful as Batoum, but without the disadvantage of being so un-
healthy. The castle is built on a ridge of rocks, which bisects
the city, the ditch of the fortress being formed into very beautiful
み​た
​TREBIZONDE,
and luxuriant gardens. The view from the placid deep-green sea
is very lovely, walls of rock backing the town. On landing, we
found that the streets were kept cleaner than those of any Turkish
town I have yet met with. The bazaars were very interesting
and curious, and larger than is usual in cities of this size. The
shops are principally kept by Armenians-a race whose only
bounds to extortion are the means of gratifying it. There is a
great deal of trade in Trebizonde, much of which comes through
Turkey from Persia. The articles of export are silk, tobacco,
wool, cotton, etc. Trebizonde is only an open roadstead, subject
346
[CHAP. LII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
in the winter to a very heavy surf in the bay. There is reported
to be fine shooting in the neighbourhood, plenty of snipe and
woodcock, and large game in the hills. Thousands of fat quails
were exposed alive in the bazaar for sale, at about fifteen shillings
the hundred. I have heard that Trebizonde is noted in the
proper season for small oysters of a delicious flavour, which are
sent even to Tiflis to contribute to the magnificent winter enter-
tainments of his Imperial Highness the Grand-Duke.
By the afternoon we were again at sea, and the next morning
found us at Ordu, a town of much the same character, but smaller
than Trebizonde. We remained here only an hour, hoisting in
such cargo as was ready.
Trade is increasing yearly in the maritime towns on the south
of the Black Sea; and whereas some two years since scarcely a
boat-load of exports could be found for freight in any of these
towns, now three very large steamers weekly ply along this coast
for freight, and readily obtain it.
We next touched at Karasund, which is said to be a more
healthy town than any on the coast. It is pretty, but less
wooded.
Late in the evening we reached the bottom of the deep bay
in which Samsoon is situated, and anchored opposite that town.
None of these towns arc fortified in a manner worth mentioning,
nor could they withstand an ironclad gun-boat for half an hour.
On Wednesday morning we got early coffee and went to visit
Samsoon, promising ourselves a treat, in the curious Eastern
bazaars, which this large town would, we thought, certainly possess.
We had scarcely passed a dozen houses, when the great calamity,
which this city had not very long before undergone, became appa-
rent. The entire old part of this town, with all its bazaars, baths,
and mosques, had been burnt to the ground, and so complete
appeared to have been the destruction, that not one single build-
CHAP. LII.]
ON THE BLACK SEA, HOMEWARDS.
347
ing within the entire inner line had been left; in fact, the whole
town was destroyed, with the exception of its suburbs. Steps
were being taken to rebuild it, lines of shops being laid out, and
already a portion of the new bazaar is built, but not yet occupied;
but at the pace at which the Turk progresses, it must be some
years before Samsoon thoroughly recovers from this severe
visitation.
About noon we again proceeded, and being steadied by fore
and aft sails, we calmly rode over the somewhat troubled sea.
The vessel we were in was very slow and very dirty, the steward
having no conception of the meaning of cleanliness; the cooking
was filthy and greasy to a degree, quite beyond all my former
experiences, and the horrid cabbage soup, floating with grease,
was not made more inviting by the addition of salted cucumbers.
We had a considerable number of second-class passengers of
divers classes, nations, languages, and dress; also of third and
fourth we had about a hundred. They amused themselves the
whole day in playing cards; and I regret to say that the pre-
scribed prayers amongst the Mussulmans at sun-down, were no
longer so strictly practised as they formerly used to be.
We passed the evening of this day at Sinope, renowned in 1854
for the destruction of the Turkish fleet by the Russians; upon
which occasion, I understand, that the horizontal firing of shells
from guns was for the first time carried out in war, causing such
speedy havoc to the wooden walls of Turkey. It is a memorable
place, especially to those whose recollections carry them back
with personal interest to the days of the Crimean campaign; for
Sinope, now so quict and neglected, made a great stir in the world
at that time.
Near Sinope are coal-mines, the coal of which is said to be
very far superior to the best from Newcastle; they have as yet
been very little worked, and are probably one of those sources of
348
[CHAP. LII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
wealth to which the Turk proposes to apply, when his last credit
in the European market is receding from his view.
The whole coast on the southern side of the Black Sea varies
in scenery between lovely forests, farms, and gardens. The coast
of southern Italy nowhere surpasses it in beauty, and as a whole
by no means equals it. Nature has been prolific in her gifts to
this region, which to a certain extent have been taken advantage
of by man; but what this country might become, with greater
industry and capital, it is impossible to surmise.
It was not our fate to have a perfectly calm passage to Con-
stantinople. A strong breeze now set in from the north-west,
which sent a heavy swell along the coast. On Friday morning,
the 29th of September, we were very slowly pursuing our way,
hoping to cat our Michaelmas goose that evening in the Bos-
phorus. We certainly did enter the Straits that night, but
it was too late to get pratiquc, the guns from the forts warning
us to anchor, which we were compelled to do at the entrance of
the Straits.
-
We had now, therefore, made the entire circuit of the Black
Sca. We had left Constantinople on the 18th of July for Odessa,
from thence we coasted, touching at every harbour, to Kertch,
and after our tour by the Don, the Caspian, the Caucasus, and
Mount Ararat, embarking at Poti, we visited every town on the
southern coast.
On Saturday morning, the 30th, we ran down the Bosphorus
and took up our position between the beautiful Seraglio Point and
Galata. It being imperative for us to be in England before the
10th of October, we took immediate steps for this purpose. We
had intended to return by Varna and Vienna, as the speediest way
home; great, therefore, was our consternation on learning at the
office that a quarantine was now established in Europe against
Turkey, and that, were we to proceed by Varna, we should be
CHAP. LII.]
349
ON THE BLACK SEA, HOMEWARDS.
obliged to spend at least seven days in a wretched tent by the sca
shore. We therefore determined, if possible, to catch the Trieste
boat, which was named to sail that very morning at ten o'clock. It
was now nine, and during this hour our letters had to be sought
in Galata, money obtained for our passage, etc. Thus, for once,
we blessed the unpunctuality invariable in Turkey. By diligence
we completed all, and were on board the "Diana" by 11 A.M.
As we rowed up to the vessel, the custom-house officer, ever on
the alert, touched the gangway of the ship at the same moment
as ourselves, and required us to return to the custom-house, with
all our baggage. We perfectly understood the whole affair, and
when the boatman whispered "backsheesh," we thought it more.
politic to comply than fight the question; his ready slipper was
in the bow of his boat, and on our slipping into it a piece of
silver, which he pretended not to see, he at once vanished.
CHAPTER LIII.
RETURN TO ENGLAND.
It was with extreme regret that I felt compelled to stay so
short a time in Constantinople, as I had desired to express my
thanks to all those who had done us so much service--in forward-
ing letters concerning us to the authorities in the Caucasus, and
in many other ways showing us attention and kindness. In the
sequel, however, it was most fortunate for us that we left; for
had we gone up into Pera, and taken up our lodgings in that
part of the city, as we had at first intended, most probably we
should have been within the cordon that was instituted against
cholera, which was raging there, and should have been detained
for a month.
On Saturday, the 30th of September, we lifted anchor and
glided from amongst the shipping in the Bosphorus, and rounded
the beautiful Seraglio Point, probably seeing it for the last time.
The memories of bygone days flashed upon my mind, when thirty-
four years before, this queen of citics first opened on my view.
I then approached it at sunrise in my little yacht, which I had
sailed more than a thousand miles. Then everything was Oriental
-the people, their buildings, their manners, their ideas, all were
purely Turkish—and we Franks were looked upon as a set of un-
clean dogs, whose presence was sanctioned only because we were
useful. The bazaars then were truly Eastern, and in my opinion
CHAP. LIII.]
RETURN TO ENGLAND.
351
the city much pleasanter. The Turks are possessed of many noble
qualities, and the Greek and Jewish element was not then so
much in the ascendant.
The Austrian Lloyd passenger-boats are most comfortable,
and although the passage-money to Trieste, which was nearly
fourteen pounds for five days, was rather high, yet the food and
attendance and comfort we met with, were so good as not to be
dearly purchased.
We met on board a very pleasant set of passengers, most of
them intelligent merchants from Constantinople. Among them
was an American gentleman of the name of Hamlyn, the Principal
of Roberts's College, near to Roumali Hissa, on the Bosphorus,
who had a fund of anecdotes about Turkey and the Turks, which
resembled those of the "Arabian Nights," recalling in his stories
the old days of the Janissaries, of Sultan Mustapha and the mur-
dered Selim, and many strange and interesting histories of bygone
Turkish days. He was on his way to America, to endeavour to
procure the means of putting a finishing stroke to the great
work at which for years he had been labouring. After incessant
trouble with the Sublime Porte, and many years of wearying
importunities, he had at length obtained a Firman to build the
college. Again, after some years of anxiety and worry, it was
only under the moral pressure of Admiral Farragut and his big
guns that he was able to proceed and carry the Firman into
execution, which resulted in a noble building, on a fine site,
above the Bosphorus, which was finished at a cost of about
twenty thousand pounds. It is a wonderful establishment for
the East, is now in good working order, and already counts
one hundred and forty boarders, consisting of some Turks, many
Bulgarians, Greeks, etc., etc.
Mr. Hamlyn was now proceeding to America in the hope of
obtaining a sum equal to that which he had already expended, for
352
[CHAP. LIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
the purpose of founding a library and two or three professor-
ships, and although the sum is so large, yet he entertained very
strong hopes of success, for, as he stated, America has no lack
of generous, far-secing, and sympathising men, and, indeed,
he might have added of very wealthy ones also.
The last voyage of the Diana had been to Alexandria. The
account given by one of the lieutenants of the vessel, who had
been many times through the Suez Canal, was anything but
satisfactory. He said that although more than twenty-two feet
of water may now exist, it is only in the exact centre of the
canal, so that two ships of that draught cannot pass each other,
excepting at certain points especially provided for their doing so,
which of itself causes great delays, and that the wash of the
wave from the motion of the ships was certainly doing great
injury to the banks, while the accumulation caused by the
blowing of the sand of the desert was causing, continually, an
enormous outlay to keep it clear. The cost of this great work
was, I understand, far larger than is generally supposed, and
cannot be put at less than twenty millions sterling.
We passed through the Dardanelles during the night, and the
next morning found us in the Archipelago, almost at the spot.
where, in 1839, I had seen the Turkish fleet desert from the
service of the Sultan Mahmood, and give themselves up to
Mehemet Ali of Egypt. It was on that occasion my fortune to
sail through the Turkish fleet, in my little cutter the Ariel on my
way to Smyrna, and to be the first to communicate the intelli-
gence to our consul there.
By four in the afternoon of the 1st October, we reached the
island of Syra. It being Sunday, everything on land appeared
to be dressed out in holiday costume, but as we were in
quarantine, we were not permitted to land.
The town of Syra appeared very much increased, since last
CHAP. LIII.]
353
RETURN TO ENGLAND.
10
I visited it about sixteen years since; indeed, to have almost
doubled its size. I was told that every Greek merchant, in
whatever part of the world he may reside and carry on his
business, yet feels it incumbent upon him to possess a house in
Syra; thus this island, which in point of fact is nothing more than
a barren rock, possesses a city of great wealth and importance.
By the following morning, we were passing Cape Matapan,
and towards the afternoon we coasted by the harbour of Navarino
a fatal name for Turkey,—where, in consequence of her ob-
stinacy, she first commenced her retrograde career.
PR
AN A.
1-4058
PURCATION
ács chambre uşa
gullt
ང་་་
O
→y
QUARANTINE.
We anchored next morning at Corfu-our yellow flag flying to
denote that we were forbidden communication. The town ap-
A A
גי
354
[CHAP. LIII.
TRAVELS IN THE EASTERN CAUCASUS.
peared in no way changed since I was stationed there thirty years
previously; I recognised every house. The fortifications, which
we had assisted to build with so much toil and so great an outlay,
lay in ruins destroyed at the command of diplomacy, when, at
the fiat of Lord Palmerston, we surrendered the island to the
Greeks.
There appeared to be very little shipping of a commercial
haracter in the harbour. There was an ironclad Greek Govern-
ment vessel, which I was told was first purchased by a company
of filibusters to assist the rebellion in Crete against Turkey,
but on the failing of that attempt, it was bought by the Greek
Government to prevent its being turned to more dangerous uses.
There were two or three other Greek men-of-war steamers, and a
yacht, which was said to be owned by a Mulatto gentleman.
The King and Queen of Greece, and many other members of
the royal family, were residing at the summer palace, where for-
merly we had enjoyed many a pleasant pic-nic.
We despatched some unfortunate students, who came as pas-
sengers upon a visit to their relations in Corfu, to the small
lazaretto island in the bay, where the quarantine regulation of
the island doomed them to pass eleven days of their short vaca-
tion from college.
On Thursday, the 5th of October, we at last arrived at Trieste.
We lost no time in starting off for London, and passing rapidly,
far too rapidly, by Venice, Verona, Milan and Turin, and being
the last party that ever crossed the Alps by the Mont Cenis
Mountain Railroad, we travelled viâ Dijon to Paris. Nor had
we much time to examine the destruction caused by the Com-
munists, for in twelve hours more we found ourselves again in
London, exactly four months from the time of our departure.
In the foregoing pages I have attempted to describe our
journey exactly as it occurred, and I trust this account of it may
h
CHAP. LIII.]
355
RETURN TO ENGLAND.
prove useful to any of my countrymen who may follow in our
steps, as I feel that had we, before we started, possessed some
of the information which I have given above, we should have
been saved much trouble and anxiety.
My record of our journey, and my son's sketches, afforded us
a great deal of amusement and occupation; and we have the
pleasure of feeling that we did not spend in idleness the college
vacation of the summer of 1871.
A A 2
NAMES OF PLACES VISITED AND DATES.
Aug. 1. Sebastopol.
2. Kertch.
3. Taganrog.
4. Rostow.
5-8. The Don.
· 9. Tsaritzin.
10-15. Astrakhan.
16-17. The Caspian.
18. Petrolvks.
19. Temir-han-Tsura.
20. Jem Gootai.
21. Girgibil.
22-23. Guinib.
24-25. Honsak.
26. Choke.
27. Bodlith.
28. Aisilam.
29. Wedden.
30. Grosnia.
31. Vladicavcas.
June 9. Left London.
10. Aix-la-Chapelle.
11. Cologne.
12. Munich.
13. Salzburg.
14-18. Vienna.
19-21. Pesth.
22. Temesvar.
23. Basiasch.
24-25. Orsova.
26. Widdin.
27-29. Bucharest.
30. Rustchuk.
July 1. Schumla.
2-4. Varna.
5. Black Sea.
6-13. Therapia.
14-17. Pera.
18. Bosphorus.
19. Black Sea.
20. Odessa.
21. Nicolaef.
APPENDIX.
22-24. Odessa.
25-26. Yalta.
27. Baidar.
28-29. Sebastopol.
30. Batcheserai.
31. Sebastopol.
Sept. 1. Lars.
2. Kasbec.
3. Mehketi.
4-6. Tiflis.
7. Kajora.
8. Tiflis.
9. Near Kuron.
10. Fontanka.
358
APPENDIX.
Sept.11. Erivan.
12. Etchmiazin.
13. Sardarabat.
14—15. Alėxandropol.
16. Troidskey.
17. Kirkliss.
18. Alhaltshik.
19-20. Borjome.
21. Tilliwill.
22-23. Poti.
24. Batoum.
25. Trebizonde.
26. Karasunde.
Tiflis-
1. Sagaulou
2. Tagloudja
3. Algitka
4. Salaglinskaia
5. Zor Arch
6. Novo Akstifa
7. Ousantalon .
8. Ustiboulakskaia
9. Tchourousani
10. Deligan
11. Tchoubouklou
12. Elinofska
13. Akti
14. Fontanka
15. Eiliarskaia
16. Erivan
•
Sept. 27. Samsunde.
28. Jamboli.
29. Sinope.
30. Constantinople.
Oct. 1. Dardanelles.
POST ROADS.
1. FROM TIFLIS TO ERIvan.
2. Cape Matapan.
3. Corfu.
4. Lissa.
5-6. Trieste.
7. Venice.
8. Turin.
9. Paris.
10. London.
•
Versts.
12
12
224
201
14
12
17
18
19
191
271
122/
153
12
171
15
Total 266
APPENDIX.
359
Tiflis-
1. Allchekti
2. Nitch-bis
3. Akal-kalaki
4. Gori
5. Gagarep
* 6. Suram
7. Ponksk
8. Malit
9. Belogor
+ 10. Tilliwill
11. Simonetti
12. Kutais .
Suram-
2.-FROM TIFLIS TO KUTAIS.
1. Samokeraia
2. Borjome
3. Starmakoff
4. Athouri
5. Alhaltshick
6. Abastuman
Tiflis-
1. Saganlou
2. Tagloujir
3. Algitka
4. Salaglinskaia
5. Zor-Arch
§6. Novo Akstifa
7. Gasanskaia
8. Taouskaia
•
4
•
3.--FROM TIFLIS TO BAKOU ON THE CASPIAN.
Versts.
20
13 village.
18
""
211 town.
25 station.
22 station.
131/
15/1/
17
""
21 railroad.
19
18
-K
32011
4
14
13
12
13
20 fort.
231
99
Versts.
12
12
221
20/1/
14
12
12
161
"9
* From Suram the road branches to Borjome.
+ From Kiliwill the railroad is now open to Poti-distance about 100 versts.
Summer residence of the Grand Duke, and mineral waters.
§ Here branches the road to Erivan.
360
APPENDIX.
9. Dzekamskaia
10. Tchamkori
11. Kara-Erskaia
12. Eliazawetpol
13. Kurakskaia
14. Kurgouloultchai
15. Mingitsavouri
16. Tchemaklinskaia
17. Arabskaia
18. Pousiants-aiskaia
19. Goktchaiskaia
20. Karamarianskaia
21. Kululinskaia
22. Ach-sou
23. Tchara-dilskaia
*24. Schemaka
25. Adji-daraia
26. Muraja
27. Nagi Kapi
28. Dgegi
•
29. Naglemerinkskaia
30. Arbaa
31. Saraiskaia
32. Bakou
4. Kasafjurt.
5. Tach Ketchu.
6. Tchelko-zawodsk
7. Tchedrin
8. Tcherwlena
4.-FROM PETROLVKS TO VLADICAVCAS.
Petrolvks---
1. Koun-ter Kali
2. Temirgoi
3. Tchis-zurt
•
•
Versts.
22
22
1710
281
174
13
""
201
21
*Here branches the road to Lenkoran.
""
Versts.
19
small town
village
""
""
village
""
21 1/
9/1
17
19
19
20
13/14
15
161
17/0
211
13
21
17
18
121
15 1/2
131
17/1/
12/1/
11
171/
171
5161
APPENDIX.
361
9. Nicolaef
10. Petropawlow
*11. Grosnia.
12. Alkan-zurt
13. Samarka
14. Sleptskowka
15. Naz-ran.
16. Vladicavcas
Vladicavcas-
1. Balta
2. Lars.
3. Kasbec.
4. Kobi.
5. Goudavouri
6. Mleti
7. Para-navouri .
8. Anan-ouri.
9. Doushet
10. Tchilkan
11. Mchketi
12. Tiflis
My body
•
·
Versts.
•
9 village
21
14
12
20
23
19
25
5.-FROM VLADICAVCAS TO TIFLIS.
1
305
Versts.
12/1/
16
""
town
village
""
""
Tartar village
town
2063
station
18/1/20
181
14 telegraph
18
18/
21
16 town
17/3/20
4
6. FROM VLADICAVCAS TO ROSTOW AND TO PETIGORSE.
3
14 village
4
20
city
Vladicavcas-
1. Kautichefskaia
2. Sredui Alchavulskaia
3. Mahomet Simslofskaia
4. Mosdok
5. Pawlodolskaia
* At Grosnia joins the mountain road by Temir-han-Tsura and Guinib.
Versts.
20
20
20
24
14
362
APPENDIX.
6. Ekaterino-gradskaia
7. Prokladnaia
8. Soldatskaia
9. Haro Pawlofskaia
* 10. Giorgewsk
Giorgewsk
Lisogorsa
Petigorse
11. Alexandria
12. Souko Padruskaia .
13. Sablinskaia
14. Alexandrouskaia
15. Kalinofskaia
16. Sergeefskaia
17. Bazowaia Balka .
18. Staro Marefskaia
19. Stravopol.
20. Rouskaia
21. Moskofskaia
22. Douskaia
23. Besofsasnaia
24. Predgadnaia.
25. Medwejinskaia
26. Letnitskaia
•
27. Pechano Kopskaia
28. Spedno Egolinskaia
29. Grisnioukwskaia
30. Merkoulofkaia
31. Novo-Protopopskaia
32. Kagolnitskaia
33. Makrabotstaiskaia
34. Machinskaia
35. Aksaiskaia
36. Gorbikofskaia
37. Rostow
•
•
•
18
17
Versts.
181
201
14
19
263
121
18
161
26/1/1
201
181
211
211
21
131
15
201
21
23
24
223
25
27/1/20
16
21
22
18
18
17
10
7
17
7111
From Giorgowsk a road branches to the mineral springs of Petigorse.
APPENDIX.
363
7.-FROM ERIVAN TO NACHIT-CHEVAN.
Erivan-
1. Agamzali
2. Kama-liy
3. Dawa-loa
4. Sa-da-rau
5. Batch-Narachen
6. Ku-wrak
7. Beyuk Duzii
8. Nachit-chevan
Erivan
1. Eiliarskaia
2. Fontanka
3. Akti .
4. Elenofska
5. Tchoubouklou
*6. Deligan
7. Gamscthemain
8. Karaklis
9. Amanli
10. Arh-Boulov
11. Alexandropol
8.-FROM ERIVAN TO ALEXANDROPOL, via THE DELIGAN POST
ROUTE.
•
Erivan-
1. Etchmiazin
2. Sardarabat
·
•
•
•
Versts.
13
15
182
18 3/4
221
223
1432
18
1431
•
*Here branches the road to Tiflis.
Versts.
15
17/1/
12
15/1/
12/
271
HN HN HE
17/1/
181
Total 198
9.—FROM ERIVAN TO BORJOME, BY THE TURKISH FRONTIER.
Versts.
17
25
20
214
192
364
APPENDIX.
3. Talim
4. Mastera
5. Sunagal
6. Alexandropol
7. Shistepper.
Madd
8. Troidskey
9. Alhalkalaky
10. Nakalaky
11. Kirkliss
12. Edumulah
13. Alhalshik
14. Athouri
15. Starnakof
16. Borjome
Arbat-
1. Soumgait
2. Kiliazi.
3. Kidizze
4. Kizil Bouroun
5. Diwitchi
6. Welweli.
7. Kouba
8. Koudatskaia .
9. Talaminskaia
10. Derbeno Koularskaia
11. Arab-Archkaia
12. Derbent
13. Mamed Kalsa
14. Dgemi Kent
15. Kai Kent
16. Deslagar
•
•
·
•
•
10. FROM ARBAT TO KOUBA, DERBENT, TEMIR-HAN-TSUra, and
PETROLVKS.
·
•
Versts.
32
23
10
30
20
25
45
18
7
16
24
20
13
12
Total 337
·
Versts.
11
28
22/1/
141
171/
211/2
21/1/20
21/1/
211
12
11/1/0
14/1/
18/1/0
15
16
24
APPENDIX.
365
17. Goubdenskaia
18. Karabdachent
19. Paraoul
20. Temir-han-tsura
*21. Koumterkale
22. Petrolvks
Temir-han-tsura-
1. Musli Mauld
Bon-ghu
2. Jem Gootai
Ver-knee
Duranghey
Auchkley
Aimakee
3. Girgibil
Giorgioskimosk
11. THE MOUNTAIN ROAD FROM TEMIR-HAN-TSURA TO GUINIB AND
GROSNIA.
M
•
4. Guinib
5. Karadat
6. Honsak
7. Choke
8. Bodlith.
9. Aisilam or Lake Forelli
10. Wedden
11. Assuri
+12. Grosnia.
·
Versts.
15
16
•
162
22
25
22
Total 407
Versts.
3
972☺a
6
7
9
9
13
28
29
42
24
32
30
22
31*
Total 312
*From Koumterkale branches the road to Vladicavcas.
+ At Grosnia the regular post road from Petrolvks on the Caspian Sea to Vladi-
cavcas is joined.
366
APPENDIX.
V
12. FROM SEMACHA TO LENKORAN.
Semacha-
1. Tchailinskaia
2. Koubalinskaia
3. Pachalinskaia
4. Adgi Kaboulskaia .
5. Karasinskaia
6. Saliani
7. Dgesran Bergi
8. Prisiblinskaia
9. Kizil Agatch
10. Koumbasinskaia
11. Lenkoran .
•
•
From Petrolvks to Grosnia
From Grosnia to Vladicavcas
From Vladicavcas to Tiflis
to Erivan.
From Tiflis
From Erivan to Alhalkalaky
From Alhalkalaky to Borjome.
From Borjome
to Tilliwill
From Tilliwill
to Poti (per rail)
Versts.
19
171
13
•
25
24/1/
201
33
35
TOTAL DISTANCES TRAVELLED IN THE CAUCASUS.
17
16
19
Total 239
Versts.
347
100
207
257
220
110
96
100
Total 1,437
Astrakhan
Petrolvks
Derbent
Bakou
APPENDIX.
Steamers leave Astrakhan every Tuesday during the summer
months, and return on the Thursday or Friday fortnight, and they
touch at the following places as nearly as possible on the days
specified :-
P
•
Tuesday.
Thursday.
Friday.
Saturday, and
remain Sunday.
Monday
Tuesday.
Lenkoran
Angeli (in Persia)
Astrabad (id est, Assmadah) Wednesday.
THE END.
367
There is also a steamer once a week from Bakou to Kras-
mouvolko, on the coast immediately opposite, which performs the
passage in about twenty-four hours.
It is stated that the railroad is now (October, 1872) completed and
opened from Tiflis to Poti.
BRADBURY, EVANS, AND CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.
50°
Pesth
Szegeding
45°
Nensohl
Belgrade
40°
Tsrestolchova Sandomirg
Craeow
Granit
20°
Kieltse Zavikhost
Zavikhost Piaski
R. Theiss
Arad
GrosWinden
HUNGARY
Temeswar
Semen ria
Eperies
T
Klausenburgh.
Ivangorod
Pulavy
Lublin
Widdin
R.
Hermanstadt
Krasnystal
Zamosts!
R.
Zolkier
Karstsburgh.
Marosk
Janube
25
Lemberg
Czernowi
Bovel
Shumla
Pinsko
MO
Rovno
Orsova.
WALL A G H I A,
O
Bukharest
TRAVELS.
The Author's Roufe is shewn thus
Rutschuk
Jassy
Roming
Adrianople
Varna
GENERAL MAP
TO ILLUSTRATE
SIR ARTHUR CUNYNGHAME'S
o Volochist
V I A
Kozhets
。Kamienetz
Kalughieri
Liodripol
CONSTANTINOPL
Galatz
R.Pripet
Belai
Novgorod
Volinsla
Jitomi
oselitza
Here there
||**ing
Orgeie
Kishine f
Bender
Tirespol
Tags
Month
Skewiray
Ismael
- m
y to get quote of out why we
de à qui t
form. "They " up as a prom
Akerman
is tong the art the age
an and all va map.
>
L
L
L
L
is of
and the
face paper on popular a
3/0
Seskatari
ΚΙ
Balta
R. Dniester
ja + de
T
Mosporus
Livoper
Brazlar
Odessa
Tehernigof
Kief
B
Ananief
Nicolaef
Mot
L
Beliza
Elizavetgrad
Oliopol
Adjiamca
E
Gorodnia
R.Des
oselez
Alexandria
R. Dnieper
Perchop G
Nikologief
Sevastoj
A
Konotop
VRESOU
Iekaterinoslav
erop
Balaklara
rement chuk
Nikopol
Kherson
R. Dnieper
Eupatoria
Bad
M
Palta
tupka
K
Sinub
Y
35 Orel
35°
Valla
Poltava
Fin
exer
Obojar
Inge
ang dengan b
Yeni Kale
Kertcho
Stratt
Elets
吧​?
EZOF
S
Kursk
Kharkoff
Elds
Belgorod
Voronejs
E
Taganr
Novo Te
R. Donets
A.Kab
A
40°
Pavlovsko
A
royskaia
Irusherled
Koslof
Griazi
ZE MIX
Trebizond
40°
Tambof
∙Don
VOISKA
STRY OF THE
R. Don
Batoum
с
Stavropo
ONS KA
ON
Kalatch
Erzeroum
Poti
Maran
SSA
E
凶
​FROM
Atkarske
Kars
R.Vol
S
Tsaritsin
U
heorghievsk
(
Echmiadzin,
D
Gori
T
Saratof
R.
R
Tiflis
Luma
S
R. Terek
GH
Mladikavkaz
Dariel
Erivan
R. Kur
Mt Ararat
R. Volg
varu
Astrakhan
E
K
Kuma R
T
Gue
50°
HA
ib
Uralsk
N
Petroloks
Derbend
or Laik
R. Ural
Home Verne tos vt -
component one the trend of the reported the wo
J
ܤܝܝ ܫ ܐ . ܕܚܫ
en
Bakoo
A
Orer
50°
legate de ple de a d
Meetro
• ve yerga -
River
ADAT
—
Ural
50°
45°
40°
55
J & C. Walker.
با اله
N
OF
1
1
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GRADUATE LIBRARY
Sym
OCT-2-3-1974
3
DATE DUE
MAY V • 1997
:
man kan j
Ive
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
HAZA
3 9015 03680 8486
DO NOT REMOVE
OR
MUTILATE CARD