A 888,447
DA
625
.358
!

F MICHIGAN ·
OF
MICHIGAN
30
IVERSITY
NIVERSITY
ARTES
TEN
JHI LIB
JOURNAL
OF
A VISIT TO ENGLAND
IN
1883
BY
BHAGVAT SINH JEE,
THAKORE SAHEB OF GONDAL.
Bombay:
PRINTED AT THE
EDUCATION SOCIETY'S PRESS, BYCULLA.
1886.
DA
تا
40


1934
PREFACE.
THE following pages are presented to the reader
not from a wish to strut out as an author before
the public, but simply to satisfy the desire of
numerous friends, both European and Native,
who have repeatedly asked me to place the
manuscript copy of my Diary in the hands of the
printer. The Diary relates to matters more of
personal than of general interest, and does not
pretend to supply any new information to the
1 public. It is only, as its name implies, a bare
record of things seen by me from day to day
during a hurried tour of six months' duration,
with a few remarks here and there, which will be
taken for what they are worth. In this place
iv
PREFACE.
I must not forget to express my sense of obliga-
tions to my friend Colonel G. E. Hancock, who
was my companion and cicerone, and whose
cheerful disposition, tact, and kindness added
greatly to my enjoyment.
BHAGVAT SINH JEE.
Gondal, December 1885.
JOURNAL.
16th April.
I left Gondal at 6-30 a.m. with Major Hancock,
and reached my old rooms at the Rajkumar
College at 9 a.m. Some of the Kuvers came out
to receive me, and welcomed me very kindly.
It happened to be a holiday, so I saw a great
deal of my friends. They all dined with me
at one o'clock, after which some of the Kuvers
made farewell speeches. I was much touched
by the kindness shown to me by these old friends
with whom I had lived for many years. I did
not know till then that I had so stro, a hold
on their affection. I briefly replied to the
juvenile orations of my friends. In the evening
I went out riding, and spent some time with
Mr. Kavasji Desai.
17th April.
Early in the morning I called on Colonel and
Mrs. Barton. Then I spent a couple of hours
I
2
Journal of the
with Mr. Selby, paid a farewell visit to my
mother, and left Rajkot at 3-30 p.m. with Major
Hancock for Chotila. We arrived there about
sunset, went for a short walk, and visited the
Thana. I afterwards wrote letters till bed-time.
18th April.
We left Chotila at 6 a.m. for Wadwan, get-
ting there at about nine o'clock. I breakfast-
ed with the Thakore Saheb of Chuda, and at
4-15 p.m. we left for Bombay. We saw many
friends by the way-Mr. and Mrs. Beaman at
Ahmedabad; Colonel Warden, and Captain and
Mrs. Sadler at Baroda; Messrs. Uttamram,
Jamiatram, Jagannath, and Dajibhai came to
see me at Surat; and at Bulsar, Baldevji of
Dharampore came to greet me with a band,
which woke up everybody in the train.
19th April.
We reached Bombay at 9 o'clock in the
morning, and were glad to get there after our long
and rather tedious journey. The tedium, how-
ever, was very much relieved by the picturesque
scenery we were passing through. From
Ahmedabad to Bulsar the whole aspect present-
Chief of Gondal.
3
ed a very gay and lively appearance. We were
passing through a wide expanse of living verdure,
for everything around us looked fresh and green
in spite of the approach of the hot weather.
All this was in striking contrast with the dry and
barren view of the country from Rajkot to
Ahmedabad. And the scenery of the tracts
between Bulsar and Bombay was a happy mix-
ture of both. After breakfast we drove to the
shops to get measured for outfits for the
voyage. In the evening we drove up to Malabar
Hill, whence I saw the sea and the whole of
Bombay for the first time. It was all very
grand and beautiful. I had a panoramic view of
the urbs prima in Indis as they call it, and much
admired it. We called upon Mr. and Mrs.
Kemball and Colonel Hancock, who live in a very
pretty bungalow upon the hill overlooking the
sea.
20th April.
In the early morning we drove up to Malabar
Hill to play lawn-tennis at the Ladies' Gym-
khana. Afterwards we went to see Colonel Han-
cock, who showed us some of his recent paint-
4,
Journal of the
ings. We then drove back by another road
giving a fine view of Back Bay. Major Hancock
would like to see all the cocoanut trees cut
down for the better ventilation of the town, but
I think that would spoil the view, besides being
a somewhat costly operation in compensating
the owners. We drove down to the Apollo
Bunder in the afternoon, passing all the new
public buildings and Prince of Wales' statue by
the way. The buildings are magnificent. In the
evening we went to Wilson's Circus, which was
most amusing. A beautiful black horse jumped
over two others standing together, and trotted
over a number of white bars very neatly. After
that a mule came in, belonging to the clown,
which nobody could ride. This mule 'Barney
seemed to understand everything that his master
said to him. A young lady then rode a bareback-
ed horse all round the circus, jumping on and off
several times, and flying through paper hoops
in a most wonderful way. After that an athlete
performed some wonderful feats of strength on
three horizontal bars. He seemed to perform
the tricks without any trouble at all. Next came
Chief of Gondal.
5
a flying clown! He wore a belt round his waist
to which was attached a rope passing through
a pulley over a moveable bar. This swung round
the circus with him as he rode a horse, until it
was pulled by the people in the centre, which
lifted him up into the air, when he performed all
sorts of antics and made us laugh very much.
Four beautiful Arab horses then came in and
danced all round the circus. They afterwards
jumped hurdles and reared up on their hind legs
when told to do so. A large cage, full of African
lions, was then brought in. A man went into
the cage and made them jump through burning
hoops and over fireworks. They got very angry,
and some day they might turn upon the man and
kill him for his cruelty. This part of the per-
formance was not at all interesting, and nobody
seemed to like it. For a creature, however train-
ed and disciplined it may be, will hardly change
the nature it has imbibed with its mother's milk.
The natural disposition of a creature remains
with it till death, as the saying goes. It would
perhaps be well for this man to desist from prac-
tising tricks which may one day cost him his life.
6
Journal of the
21st April.
Major Hancock and I went by the early train
to Bhandup, and rode from Bhandup to see the
Vehar and Tulsi lakes which supply Bombay
with water. The lakes are very beautiful; and
I admired very much the skill and energy which
have secured for Bombay the rich water-supply
they yield. I have long desired to supply Gondal
in a similar way with water to be brought through
pipes from some place higher up the Gondali
river. We afterwards rode to Thana and
called upon Mr. Candy. We rested there for
about an hour, and then came back by a fast
train to Bombay. The country round Thana
is very mountainous.
mountainous. We went for a drive
towards Colaba in the evening. We passed by
the marble statue of the Queen-Empress, which
looks very nice, although it is not very much
like the photographs I have seen of her. After
dinner we went to see Macbeth acted at the
Gaiety Theatre. Mr. Arthur Elliot acted the
part of Macbeth splendidly, but I was dis-
appointed with Miss Pomeroy's performance of
Lady Macbeth. The scene where Banquo's ghost
Chief of Gondal.
7
appears, and the scene where Lady Macbeth is
walking in her sleep, appeared to me to be the
best. The meeting of the witches was absurdly
done. It was more ludicrous than anything else.
22nd April.
Mr. Adamji Peerbhai, a very rich merchant,
called for me at sunrise. I was very happy to
see him, he being a native of Dhoraji, in the
Gondal State, where he owns some property.
He drove me round by Malabar Hill and Breach
Candy to see his bungalows. He very kindly
offered to lend me one on my return. In the
evening we drove to see Government House and
the garden at Parel. Afterwards we went to
the Victoria Gardens. Neither of those gardens
seemed so nice or fresh to me as my own gardens
are at Gondal. The animals in the Victoria
Gardens looked very miserable, and were suf-
fering from the heat and dust. I think that the
ground all round their cages should be watered
frequently to keep them cool, and that their
cages should be better kept. The zoological
section of the garden is very meagre, and does
not seem to receive the attention it deserves.
8
Journal of the
The collection is very poor and unworthy of the
Capital of Western India. It should be supple-
mented from all parts of the Presidency.
23rd April.
We went to see the Prince's Dock at 7
a.m. Capt. Russell, the Dock Superintendent,
kindly showed us everything. First of all we
went over the S. S. Clifton, which had been
on fire two nights before. All the middle of the
ship was burnt away. It must be very terrible.
to have such a fire at sea. We then walked all
round the Dock and saw many large steamers
discharging their cargoes by means of hy-
draulic cranes, which can be fixed anywhere
alongside of the ship, and which lift enormous
weights quite easily. There is a 100-ton crane
which was just going to lift a steam yacht
for the Nawab of Janjira out of the S. S.
Clan Cameron, weighing twenty tons, and put
it in the water just as if it was a cockleshell.
We saw the large iron bridge over the Dock
gates revolve on its centre to let the ships pass
through without anybody touching it. This
is done by hydraulic pressure working in oppo-
Chief of Gondal.
9
site directions, but the bridge looks as if it
moved by magic. We visited the engine house
and had the machinery explained to us. It is
astonishing to see such heaps of merchandise
stored away in large warehouses with apparently
so little trouble. Until this system was intro-
duced it is difficult to understand how such
enormous packages were moved about. The
railway runs right down to the Dock, so that
there is every convenience available. In the
evening we went to Major Strutt's bungalow to
see the working of the electric light. There
were all sorts of pretty lamps, into each of which
two electric wires passed and were connected
with a little loop of platinum wire. As the elec-
tricity passes through this loop of platinum, it
raises it to a white heat, which causes it to give
out a splendid light. The electricity turned on
and off like gas. Two of the lamps were under
water, where they looked like little electric fish,
and another was in the middle of the fountain,
and looked very pretty there. I admired the
light very much. Some day I should like to
have it in my new palace at Gondal. Major and
10
Journal of the
Mrs. Strutt were very kind. There was a large
party, and several ladies played the piano and
sang to us. I enjoyed the evening very much.
Our visit was instructive, inasmuch as it brought
home to my mind the fact that the beginnings
of great things are always small. The little
electric experiments which I had seen perform-
ed in our College Laboratory were here seen
carried to an extensively practical and useful
result. What can labour and perseverance not
achieve in these days of scientific research!
24th April.
We drove up to play lawn-tennis at the Ladies'
Gymkhana before breakfast. At one o'clock I
went to Vuccino's studio to be photographed. I
think the pictures were successful, and that my
friends and relations will be pleased with them.
In the evening we drove down to the Apollo
Bunder. It was pleasant and cool: and there
we saw many people coming to enjoy the sea-
breeze.
25th April.
We visited the Crawford Market in the morn-
ing, and ascended the Clock tower, from which
Chief of Gondal.
11
we got a bird's-eye view of Bombay. I think
this is a very convenient centre from which to
obtain a most beautiful and extensive view of
the whole island. The bright and variegated
colours of the different costumes worn by the
surging populace all round the locality were very
enchanting. There were several commodities
in the market which I had not seen before. One
can buy almost anything there. The flowers,
fruits and vegetables were beautifully arranged
in their respective stalls, and everything looked
so nice and orderly. At one o'clock we went to
see the Mint. This was the most interesting
thing I saw in Bombay. First of all we saw the
weighing room, where there are large scales to
weigh the bullion received with great nicety.
The weight of a piece of paper even turned the
scale. We then saw the bullion room, and
afterwards the melting room, where the silver is
cast into bars of the requisite thickness after
having been assayed. Next we saw a series of
rollers between which the bars are passed until
they are exactly the thickness of a rupee. We
then saw the punching room, where the rupees
12
Journal of the
are punched out, and then the weighing room,
where each rupee is weighed by automatic
machines. These are ingenious contrivances
which drop the rupees into different troughs
according as they are under weight or over
weight or correct. The correct rupees are then
put into a machine which turns up the edges a
little (in order to make them receive a full im-
pression from the dies). This machine passes
out the rupees very rapidly, about a hundred in a
minute, I should think. Major Hancock says that
he should like to receive his pay like that! The
rupees are then heated in a furnace and then
thrown into a bath of sulphate of copper, which
turns them white. They are then put under the
dies to receive the requisite impressions. The
stamping machines are very powerful. Many dies
get broken, so they have to make spare ones in
the mint. They are stamped from steel ones in
another room under a tremendous press. The
rupees that are overweight are put in another
machine where they are slightly filed. Every-
thing is beautifully managed, and they easily
turn out a lakh of rupees a day. I must not forget
Chief of Gondal.
13
to mention Col. White, who kindly explained to
us all the processes. Here I could notice with
admiration how keenly the advantages of divi-
sion of labour were appreciated. Some of the
machines are so very ingeniously constructed
that no amount of unassisted human labour can
perform-and perform nicely-the work turned
out by these contrivances. The automatic
machines for weighing rupees, however, require
some improvement. They seem to do their work
more slowly than could be done by a labourer of
average energy. We then went to see the
Times of India printing press. There were
several different kinds of printing machines,
which must be seen to be understood. They
consist chiefly of a system of rollers to ink the
types and to apply the paper to them. The
ruling machines were very neat. This press is
worked by steam, and turns out all sorts of job
work, including different kinds of fancy printing.
They manufacture their own types, and all their
arrangements show great enterprise. The
printing press is a great boon, thanks to the
genius that first invented it. If I wanted a
14
Journal of the
Sanskrit manuscript of moderate size copied, the
amanuensis at Gondal would charge me five or
six rupees for a copy. If the same MS. be put
in the hands of a competent printer, he will strike
out several copies of it in no time, the cost of
each copy not probably exceeding eight annas!
So the printing press is a marvel of success.
and enterprise. In the evening we drove to see
the Government House and the Battery at
Malabar Point. It was cool and pleasant there,
and the views were beautiful. In the evening
I went to see a native play, which was not quite
up to the mark.
26th April.
We played lawn-tennis on the Hotel tennis.
courts before breakfast. I wrote letters after-
wards. In the evening we drove down to the
Fort to see the proofs of my photographs, and
afterwards to the Apollo Bunder to hear the
Band. As a large number of native ladies and
gentlemen seem to gather here, I think it would
not be amiss if the band played some native
tunes at intervals. I intend to have a trained
Goanese Band at Gondal, which will cater for the
Chief of Gondal.
15
amusement of the people on certain days by
discoursing English as well as native music,
which is more familiar to their ears.
27th April.
We drove to the Ladies' Gymkhana to
play lawn-tennis in the morning. At three
o'clock we embarked on board the S. S.
Cathay. I have enjoyed my visit to Bombay
very much. It is one of the largest emporiums
in the world. The stately piles of its buildings,
the activity at its harbour, and the business-like
visage of its inhabitants, bear witness in silent
eloquence to its prosperity. It is a grand inter-
national exhibition in itself. For, I believe, we
can see here people from all parts of the globe.
The only thing I have not liked in Bombay is
the peculiarly bad odour issuing from the open
gutters. I don't suppose that my olfactory
nerves are more acutely sensitive than those of
anybody else! But in spite of this little fault,
which is not past remedy, I must bid it a friendly
adieu for the present, and I shall fondly look
forward with pleasure to coming to it again.
When the anchor was hauled and the steamer
16
Journal of the
began to move, I could not but think that 'at
each remove' the receding shores of Bombay
were 'dragging a lengthening chain' of fondness
and affection. For although to see Europe
was a dream of my life, and the present trip
was undertaken at my own desire, it was very
painful to be torn, even temporarily, from
my own country, to which I am fondly attached.
As we proceeded, the façade of magnificent
buildings on the Bombay coast ceased to
appear, and we found ourselves in the midst.
of a watery plain with which I was acquainted
only on the map. This being my first ex-
perience of the sea, I was somewhat appre-
hensive as to whether the voyage would be
agreeable to me. But happily all my fears on
this score proved groundless. For when I saw
most of my fellow-passengers suffering from
giddiness and sea-sickness as they call it, I was
immensely enjoying the sportiveness of the
billows all round. It is wonderful to behold how
the mariners
go their
way on a trackless sheet of
water. Our steamer, which was our home for
the nonce, looked like an islet in motion-or
Chief of Gondal.
17
a floating hamlet. For although we were going
farther and farther from the land, we had all the
comforts and conveniences of a land life. These
rendered our voyage very pleasant, otherwise it
would have been very monotonous and weari-
some. The Captain and his men are very care-
ful in ministering to the wants of the first-class
passengers. Every officer or servant on board
has his assigned work, which he does with the
regularity of a clock, without interfering with
that of any one else. I very much admire the
order prevailing among the crew.
3rd May.
After a calm and uneventful passage from
Bombay (except a slight scare of fire one even-
ing in the Bar room) we arrived at Aden about
8 a. m. on the 3rd of May. Its appearance
from a distance was a great relief to most of us.
For despite the pleasantness of the voyage, and
the comforts and luxuries provided for us on
board, we could not but feel at times that we
were in some sort prisoners confined within the
wooden walls of the steamer. To those who
are in the habit of taking daily exercise it is no
}
2
18
Journal of the
small hardship to be thus confined. Even a
temporary break in the unvaried sound of the
engine and in the monotony of the sight all
round was hailed with delight. The steamer
anchored outside the light ship, and left again
at noon, so we only just had time to land on
terra firma, and drive up to see the tanks and
the public buildings near the road through the
cantonments of Aden. The tanks are very
curious. They consist of a series of large ex-
cavations in the bed of a ravine leading from the
mountains. Where the nature of the rock is
porous they are lined with masonry. Some of
them are forty or fifty feet deep, and hold an
immense quantity of water. Rain falls very
seldom in Aden, but a fall of 4 or 5 inches is
quite sufficient to fill the tanks. About thirteen
years ago, I am told, a fall of 7 inches flooded
the whole town, and caused a great deal of
damage. The first view of Aden from the main
pass is very striking. The white houses with
their flat roofs look very cool and quaint, but the
place is really very hot in spite of its nearness
to the sea. The hills are all barren; Aden would
Chief of Gondal.
19
look very pretty indeed if they were covered
with vegetation. I was amused to see the
troops of Somalis on the road with woolly heads
exposed to the sun without any kind of covering.
Nature has made their skulls much thicker than
those of ordinary humanity, thus rendering them
proof against sunstroke. There were also strings
of camels bringing supplies from the interior of
Arabia. The Arabs ride these without any
saddles, resting their feet on the camel's neck,
and looking quite at home upon them! We saw
a drove of Aden sheep. They are very curious-
looking creatures, with double tails, and a sort
of pouch under their chins. We then went to
Cowasji's Reading Room to see the latest tele-
grams. There was no news of any importance
about India. As Aden is an entrepôt of trade,
and under the jurisdiction of the Governor of
Bombay, several Parsi and Hindu adventurers-
the latter chiefly from Kattywar - have come.
here to try their fortune.
7th May.
We reached Suez soon after 9 a.m. We felt
extremely hot while going up the Red Sea (a
20
Journal of the
misnomer, for the water of the sea was as blue
as the firmament overhead). There was nothing
of interest that met our eyes in this long pas-
sage of about 1,400 miles, except a barren
rock sometimes on one coast and sometimes.
on the other, and shoals of flying-fish glittering
on the waves and sustaining themselves in the
air for a certain length of time. There was a
great change of climate in the Gulf of Suez, and
it has been quite cold ever since. Had time
permitted, I would have gladly undertaken a
hurried trip to the Pyramids, which are known
for their size and antiquity and great historic
renown.
8th May.
We entered the Suez Canal quite early, and
passed Ismalia about 2 o'clock. We anchored
for the night in the Canal. It is one of the
greatest monuments of modern engineering
skill. Several attempts were made in ancient
times to cut a canal through this narrow strip of
land, but they all failed. The accomplishment.
of this gigantic work was reserved for Baron de
Lesseps, who planned it and carried it out suc-
Chief of Gondal.
21
cessfully, to the gratitude and admiration of
the whole commercial world. He has opened a
highway to India, and has been instrumental
in giving a great impetus to trade in general.
But I must say there is much room for improve-
ment still. Steam drags are required to be con-
stantly at work to clear away the ever-falling
sand. The passage is extremely tedious, and
the steamer moves not faster than a snail. The
weather is oppressively and, I should say, un-
bearably hot. Everything was dry and un-
interesting. Had I known this before, I would
certainly have preferred to continue my journey
via Brindisi with many of my fellow-passengers,
with whom it was a pleasure to make acquain-
tance, and from whom I parted with a pang, not
unmixed afterwards with envy. For I really
envied their good lot in avoiding the Canal,
which awfully disgusted me. I hope somebody,
with a stretch of ingenuity, will hit upon a plan
to render the road more pleasant and agreeable
to the passengers. We reached Port Said
early next morning.
22
Journal of the
9th May.
I went on shore at Port Said with Major
Hancock and some of the other passengers.
We visited a number of shops, but I only bought
a few photographs of different parts of the Canal
to put into my album. We also visited the
public garden, and one or two of the cafés,
where they hold theatrical performances. We
saw all sorts of strange people in the streets,
Frenchmen and Russians and Turks, besides
many Greeks and Egyptians. It seems to be
a sort of meeting place for all nations. The
town, however, looks very dirty and dreary,
and I am not at all favorably impressed with
its appearance. I was glad when our vessel
steamed out of the port.
12th May.
We reached Malta at about 7 p.m. It com-
mands a very beautiful harbour. We went on
shore at once with a large party of fellow-
passengers. We first drove through fortifica-
tions to the Post Office. Malta struck me for
the first time as something different from an
Oriental city. The streets no doubt are very
Chief of Gondal.
23
steep and narrow, but they are well paved and
are kept thoroughly clean. We visited the prin-
cipal shops and saw some of the best specimens
of Maltese jewellery, which is very fine and deli-
cate, something like Delhi work. A great many
ornaments are made of coral, but I do not much
admire these. The horses used for hackney
carriages, unlike those I had seen at Bombay
and other intermediate stations,
stations, were very
big but not good looking. At 8 o'clock we
went to the Opera and heard a piece called
Traviata. The Opera House is a very handsome
building, and very nicely decorated. I liked the
music although I could not understand it, and
I thought the dresses worn by the singers were
beautiful. We had to hurry off before the end
of the piece to rejoin the steamer. This island
forms a naval station of the English, in whose
possession it has been since the year 1800.
Its central position in the Mediterranean makes
it of paramount importance, both for trade and
war. I am sorry that, owing to the lateness of
the hour, I could not see its churches, its forts,
its markets, and such other places of interest,
24
Journal of the
for which the town is noted. Our steamer
sailed soon after midnight.
16th May.
We arrived at Gibraltar by 10 a. m., and
anchored just inside the harbour. The view
from the deck was very imposing, and the for-
tress looked like a huge giant set to guard
"the entrance of the Mediterranean" and to
laugh to scorn all attempts of foes to assail
his impregnable position. It required no proof
to convince me that the rock is justly styled
the "Pillar of Hercules" in ancient history. We
went on shore as soon as possible, and just
drove to see the market. It is very commo-
dious and well arranged. I saw many new
kinds of fruits and vegetables there. Oranges
and lemons were very fine and plentiful, and I
saw olives for the first time sold by the handful
to the people, who seemed to be very fond of
them. I saw many new kinds of geraniums and
fuchsias for the first time. We bought a few
yellow roses, and then drove out beyond the
barriers to see the Spanish lines and the other
side of the rock of Gibraltar. It is
is very curious
Chief of Gondal.
25
to see the big guns peeping out of the preci-
pices. We had no time to visit the galleries, or
I should have liked to do so. We then visited
some shops and bought some photographs.
We also telegraphed to England our expected
arrival at Plymouth on the 20th,-two or three
days earlier than we had at first anticipated.
We passed the public gardens on our way back
to the ship. They are very pretty. I admire
the whole place more than Malta, which is hot.
It is so green and beautiful. It belongs to the
English, who took it nearly two centuries back,
and still hold it by right of conquest.
steamer moves very slowly between this narrow
strait, which is unusually troublesome at this
time of the year. For some distance both the
African and the Spanish shores are visible.
While crossing the Bay of Biscay we experienced
very rough weather. The steamer began to roll
in a frantic way. At one moment it ascended
the crest of a mountain-like wave, and the next
moment it descended into an abyss of foam.
Many of my fellow-passengers being sea-sick
were confined to their cabins. But fortunately I
The
3
26
Journal of the
was not in the least affected.
On the contrary,
I was enjoying the rough sublimity of the ocean,
musing all the while what a mighty power Nep-
tune wields when in his own free element.
The sea became less stern and violent as we
neared the British shore.
20th May, Sunday.
We reached Plymouth at 5, and landed at
about 8 a.m. I felt ineffable delight at landing
on shore after a somewhat tedious journey by
water for twenty-four days. Our sea voyage was
very interesting at certain points. But human
Butth
nature is seldom content with the sameness of
objects, however nice they may be, and eagerly
craves for a change. It is a well-known fact that
the human mind, unless it be systematically
trained and restrained, is always restless and
unsteady, like a fly which sometimes lights on a
good thing and sometimes on a bad one-never
clinging either to the one or to the other with-
out creating new desires which in turn need be
satisfied. Such being the case, it is no wonder
that I was overjoyed at setting my foot on the
renowned country which it was my long cherish-
79
ľ
I
Chief of Gondal.
27
ed desire to see.
What had hitherto passed
before my imagination like phantasmagoria be-
came hard realities tested by optical experience.
After clearing our luggage we went to the Duke
of Cornwall Hotel, which is close to the railway
station. We then walked out to the Hoe, which
is the public park of the town and a sort of
promenade, where all the people of Plymouth
seem to congregate. I liked this place very
much indeed. Everything was nice and orderly,
and the groups of children playing here and there
were simply charming. In the afternoon we went
for a drive to the head of the harbour up to the
point where it is crossed by a very lofty suspen-
sion bridge. This bridge is cleverly constructed,
for it spans the wide estuary without any prop
in the middle. The resources at the command
of human intellect are boundless. There is no
limit of which we can say "Thus far you will go
and no further!" We plucked a number of wild
flowers-violets and wild geraniums, and others.
of which I did not know the names. It was a
bright sunshiny afternoon, and I enjoyed the
excursion very much. The back-water of the
28
Journal of the
harbour is full of old men-of-war, which are now
used as store-ships. It seemed curious to see
them all inland. Plymouth seems to be a very
large place, including several small villages which
used to be quite separate. The first town I saw
in England has left a very favourable impression
on my mind. I hope it is a good earnest of what
I am to see hereafter. If all the places I am
going to see be as good and pretty as the one
I am now in, I think all the troubles and incon-
veniences of a distant journey will be amply
rewarded.
21st May.
,,
We left for London by the 8-35 train, arriving
at Paddington at 3 p.m. This was my first
experience of an English railway. I find the
train here running much faster than trains in
India. Everybody appears to be doing his
own work, and the word "business
it were stamped on his face. No idlers are
to be found lounging about the place and
interfering with other people's duties. We
drove at once to the Albemarle Hotel. After
taking some tea we went for a walk up Bond
seems as
Chief of Gondal.
29
Street and through the Burlington Arcade. The
shops are very attractive. I bought a few trifles,
and made a note of several other things which
I should like to buy later on. A great many people
seemed to remark my dress. It was a novelty
to most of them, and it would have afforded me
great amusement to hear their criticisms on it.
I could not exactly make out whether their smile
was indicative of their approval or disapproval.
But in matters of dress every individual has his
own idiosyncrasies, to which he is partial As
tastes and judgments differ, difference in cos-
tumes must continue to exist. And a nation
adopts a particular dress more in conformity
with the exigencies of the climate than with
anything else. At any rate it was pleasing to
be told that the peculiarity of my dress had made
me for a time the cynosure of all eyes. Mr.
Percy FitzGerald visited us in the evening. I was
pleased to see him and to talk with him of Gon-
dal. We played a game of whist after dinner.
22nd May.
Immediately after breakfast we drove to the
India Office in a Hansom cab to call upon Sir
1
L
30
Journal of the
Owen Burne, Mr. Gerald FitzGerald, and Mr.
Maitland, the Private Secretary of Lord Kim-
berley, Secretary of State for India. Sir Owen
Burne was very kind and friendly, and a day is
to be fixed soon for me to interview Lord Kim-
berley, and to attend the Royal Levée. The India
Office is a handsome building. The apartments
are well furnished and decorated, and they are
shown to visitors at a certain time on Fridays,
on application to the porter. In the afternoon we
drove out to see Mr. Macnaghten, my College
Preceptor, driving back along the Parks.
I am
already much astonished at the size of London,
but I think I like the country best. For the town,
though the metropolis of the British Empire,
is very smoky and sooty. Wipe your face or
furniture now and again, and in a couple of hours
you will see your kerchief tinged with soot.
This, combined with the unceasing din and rattle
that fill one's ears all day long, is likely to
confuse a stranger used to a more quiet life.
But as yet my experience of the place is very
limited. And I must wait for some time longer
before pronouncing my judgment on the largest
Chief of Gondal.
31
and the richest city in the world. In the even-
ing we went to see "A Trip to the Moon" at
H. M.'s Theatre. We took Jamadar Ali, my
Arab servant, and he was even more pleased
than I was at the beauty of the performance.
The imaginary scenery of the moon and the
snow ballet were quite exquisite. The dancing
of the principal Ballet girls upon the tips of their
toes was good, and was loudly applauded by the
audience. I have never seen a real snow-storm
yet, but that shown on the stage among the
icebergs looked very grand and beautiful. The
comic singing was very spirited, and a great
many amusing jokes were made at the expense
of the present Government. The government
of the moon is supposed to be carried on in a
glass palace, and they never give the king a
moment's rest. They are not supposed to know
what love is until they catch the complaint from
their earthly visitors, who arrive there in an
enormous projectile shot from a large cannon.
The consequent scenes and confusion are most
amusing. The scenic effects were beautiful, but
the piece itself was not very instructive, inasmuch
1
32
Fournal of the
as it did not give a stranger like myself any
insight into the social life of the people. This
is one of my principal objects in view in attend-
ing the different theatres. The stage is the
best place to study the habits and customs of
the people and learn the degrees in which the
principles of morality are respected by different.
sections of the community. The piece was
amusing on the whole, the attempts made to
caricature the present administration being
well received.
23rd May.
We went down to Epsom to see the Derby in
the Royal Train with the Prince of Wales, start-
ing from Victoria at one o'clock. We had good
places in the grand stand in company with the
Thakur Saheb of Morvi and other friends, and
had a fine view of the race. This, I believe, is
one of the grandest race-meetings in the country.
The value of the stakes sometimes amount to
half a lakh of rupees or more. The people take
so keen an interest in this annual tamasha that
the whole town empties itself to witness it. The
importance of the event has been recognised by
「
Chief of Gondal.
33
Parliament, which has more than once taken a
holiday in honour of the Derby Day. Such being
the case, I am glad my arrival in London was so
opportune. The race was won by a horse styled
St. Blaise. He was not one of the favourites, so
most of the bookmakers lost money, and we saw
two or three welshers mobbed in the crowd.
It was a beautiful day for the race, and we had
a fine view of the surrounding country from the
hill. The crowd of spectators was very dense.
I never saw such a large concourse of people,
though, to my mind, an Indian crowd looks
more picturesque with the variety of its bright
colours. They all seemed to be very much
excited, and they made a great noise over the
betting transactions. We did not go to see any
of the entertainments in the booths and other
places on the Downs, because it was so hot and
dusty there, but I saw the steam merry-go-round
and large swings at work from a distance. In
this respect there was little difference between
English and Indian holiday-making. All
the people seemed very merry, and to be
making the most of the great holiday. We
4.
34
Journal of the
got back in the Royal Train about 6 o'clock.
The road we had to pass through was extremely
dusty, and I wonder why the authorities do not
think of laying the dust, which is a great nuisance
to the passengers. That such a thing should
pass unnoticed in England was a matter of sur-
prise to me. This interferes greatly with the
enjoyment of the scenery, which is otherwise
very pretty. The railings were lined in many
places by the village people, who cheered the
Prince as he passed by.
24th May.
We went to see Covent Garden Market in the
carly morning. It is an immense place,-full of
fruits and vegetables of every description. I saw
some magnificent grapes and peaches, and
bought some strawberries and cherries to taste
for the first time. They were very delicious
indeed. I bought a few flowers. The flower-
girls make up their beautiful bouquets very
quickly. I admired the white ones the most,
especially those made for brides to carry at their
weddings. We drove down to South Kensington
in the afternoon to see the Fisheries Exhibition.
Chief of Gondal.
35
This was a grand International Exhibition under
the patronage of the Queen-Empress, the Prince
of Wales, and other scions of royalty and nobi-
lity. The great characteristic of the English
nation is that whenever the welfare of their people
is concerned they will turn out to a man and
give their minds to the development of such
resources and industries as are most conducive
to the support of a constantly increasing popu-
lation. Being a piscivorous nation it is their in-
terest to see that the natural wealth of their rivers
and seas is saved from pollution, that their
meals are rendered more palatable, wholesome,
and economical, and that the condition of the
fishermen is improved. These appeared to be
the avowed objects of the promoters of the
Exhibition. The exhibits were from all parts of
the world. I was much interested in them. The
Life-boat division and department, where models
of new inventions for steering ships by double
rudders were exhibited, was worth seeing. It
was gratifying to see that India was well repre-
sented. I was also much struck with the
specimens of boats and nets from China. Some
36
Journal of the
of the nets were almost as fine as spider's webs.
After seeing this exhibition we went to pay
some official visits. We found nobody at home
except Sir Barrow Ellis, who spoke to me very
kindly. We passed some very fine buildings
near the Albert Hall-indeed we see many such
whichever way we go, so that I am wondering
whether I shall ever have time to see them all.
25th May.
We drove out after lunchcon to continue our
official visits and afterwards drove along the
Thames Embankment to the General Post Office
to see the Indian mails sorted, and to see the
working of the Postal Telegraph Office. There
are upwards of 1,200 young men and girls
employed in receiving and despatching telegrams
by means of a very ingenious instrument which
writes the messages at the rate of 200 words a
minute! This is done by means of a paper
tape, which is perforated in a certain way to
mean the letters of the alphabet. This causes
certain dots and dashes to be registered on
another slip of paper at the other end where the
message is read off. We also saw the pneumatic
i
Chief of Gondal.
37
tube arrangement by which a number of written
messages are despatched at once to different
parts of London. We also saw the engine-room
and the batteries which supply the electricity to
work the instruments. In the Post Office
the receipt of letters during the last half hour
before six was very curious to witness. They
came in shoals, and yet by 8 o'clock the Post
Office was empty, and all sent on their way!
There is an army of sorters, and the whole thing
is simply a matter of system and discipline.
We visited the office for disciphering "blind'
letters, and saw some very curious phonetic ad-
dresses. All the officials were exceedingly kind
and obliging, and I was much astonished to hear
that Mr. Fawcett, the Head of the whole depart-
ment, was quite blind! He must be wonder-
fully clever to be able to organise everything so
well nevertheless. I think it is not uncommon
that when one is destitute of a certain organic
faculty, the loss is not only made good, but, in
some cases, it is more than counterbalanced by
the increased power of some other senses. /
Nature seeks her own equilibrium.] Mr. Fawcett
38
Journal of the
must be a prodigy of retentive memory. For he
has much to do with figures, which he can deal
with even more accurately than any of the experts
in the full enjoyment of their organ of sight.
In the evening we went to an "At home" at
Mr. Gerald FitzGerald's in Eccleston Square,
where I was introduced to Lord Northbrook, the
late Governor-General of India, and now holding
a very responsible position under the Ministry.
I also saw here our quondam Governors, Sir
Seymour FitzGerald and Sir Richard Temple,
whom I knew before, and whom I was very glad
to meet at this social gathering, at which many
other great men were present.
26th May.
The morning turned out to be wet, or we were
to have seen the trooping of colours from Lord
Northbrook's residence. As this was put off we
went to see the Soho Bazaar and the Crystal
Palace Bazaar, where I made a few purchases. I
noted with interest that the English have adopt-
ed the Indian word "Bazaar" for many of their
markets. This is the result of their contact
with India. I trust they will have a greater
Chief of Gondal.
39
liking for the people than for their language,
for I feel sure that India's days of happiness
will not come until they have that liking. For
the present, and broadly speaking, the rulers
and the ruled seem to live together like oil
and water, without wasting much sympathy
on each other's part. This is very much to
be deplored. One of the best remedies that
suggests itself to me is that 'the rulers should
feel with the people, that they should throw
off their reserve, and instead of standing aloof
mix with them more freely than heretofore. The·
beginning should be made by the rulers, and,
from the knowledge I have of my countrymen,
I can assure any pessimist that their efforts will
be met half way. In the afternoon we paid some
more official visits, returning afterwards to the
Great Western Hotel, where we now intend to
reside. In the evening we attended a reception
at the Foreign Office. It was a very brilliant
gathering. The entrance hall over the double
staircase was decorated very gorgeously. Beauti-
ful plants and flowers were arranged all over it,
which added greatly to the beauty of the scene.
1
10
Journal of the
The galleries and staircase were thronged with
notables in full-dress costumes. From the top
of the stairs it was like a fairy scene. A band
played at the foot of the stairs, and every one
looked bright and happy. Some of the ladies
wore magnificent sets of diamonds. After
After pass-
ing through the rooms, the Thakore Saheb of
Morvi and I were presented to T. R. H. the
Prince and Princess of Wales. The Prince
kindly spoke a few words to us both.
I was
highly pleased at this reception.
27th May.
We went to the Zoological Gardens in the
morning, taking the Jamadar with us, to see all
the animals. There is a large collection of
animals from all parts of the world. They are
beautifully cared for. They all looked more or
less in their natural element, excepting the
wolves, who seemed timid and terrified. The
birds have built nests and made themselves
quite at home in their enclosures. I was much
amused to hear the laughing bird from Australia
laugh quite loudly. I was also amused at the
seals, who sat up in chairs, dived off a high plat-
Chief of Gondal.
41
form, kissed their keeper, and went through a
variety of other tricks in the water. They caught
pieces of fish with great alacrity. From their
appearance one can scarcely imagine their
activity. The insect house was very interesting.
There are glass-cases full of chrysalis and the
insects which come out of them. There are
some very extraordinary reptiles in the same
house, and some very pretty birds, including the
beautiful Birds of Paradise. It was a nice
warm day, so the giraffes and the rhinoceroses
and the hippopotami were all out basking and
enjoying themselves. Wherever we go we are
attracted by some sort of creature which we
never saw before. Here we see all sorts of
lions and tigers, who show their true temper at
feeding time; the monkey house affords great
amusement to the spectators; antelopes, zebras,
bears, reindeers, hyenas, and many curious beasts
of prey are all to be seen here. The aviary is
the most charming part of the collection.
saw the eagle, the ostrich, the flamingo, and
many other birds for the first time. All these
creatures, from the smallest to the biggest,
I
5
42
Journal of the
require the greatest care and attention. The
arrangement is capital. This institution gives
great facilities to students of Natural History.
If one were to spend his life-time in travelling
all over the globe he would not be able to see
so many sorts of animals as he sees here brought
together in one place. However warm an ad-
mirer I am of this interesting institution I can-
not but question the propriety of confining beasts
and birds of the jungle for our personal pleasure.
Man calls himself the lover of liberty, and yet he
is prone to restrain the freedom of the lower
creatures simply for his own amusement. On
the same principle I am doubtful whether man
is justified in encaging pretty birds of the forest,
which are at their best when set at large. I
passed the evening in the company of Mr. and
Mrs. Cleaver in Kilburn.
28th May.
We attended a Royal Levée at St. James's
Palace at 2 o'clock, where we were presented to
H. R. H. the Prince of Wales. Such presenta-
tions are considered equivalent to being present-
ed to the Queen. A great many officers of high
Chief of Gondal.
43
rank were presented at the same time. The
rooms of the palace were very handsomely de-
corated with pictures and satin papers of scarlet
and gold. It is an old royal residence, though
since the great fire of 1809 it has been almost
entirely rebuilt. The Royal Levées are always
held here, and on these occasions the road is
thronged with densely packed masses of spec-
tators. We afterwards went to call upon Lord
Salisbury, Sir Richard Temple, Mr. Andrew
Cassells, and some other high officials. In the
evening we went for a walk in Hyde Park. The
trees there are very beautiful and the walks well
laid out. I hope to examine this park more
closely on some other occasion.
29th May.
We drove to the Admiralty at Whitehall, the
official residence of Lord Northbrook, at 10
o'clock, to see the trooping of the colours. It
was a very fine sight to see the Household troops
passing in review order and going through
the other evolutions laid down for trooping the
colours. I admired the horses and brilliant
uniforms exceedingly. The men marched very
44
Journal of the
steadily, and the band played just as well whilst
marching as it did whilst standing still. Lord
Northbrook was very kind, and I am glad he
gave me the opportunity of seeing the review so
comfortably. We afterwards drove to the
India Office and finished our official visits.
We also called at Marlborough House, Bucking-
ham Palace, and Gloucester House, to write
our names in the Royal visiting books. These
are very magnificent buildings. Marlborough
House is an old historical palace, erected
for the use of the first Duke of Marlborough.
It is now the property and residence of the
Prince of Wales. Buckingham Palace is a large
quadrangular building. It is the summer resi-
dence of Her Majesty the Queen-Empress. A
large ball-room is attached to the Palace, where
State balls are held. We attended a State
ball there in the evening. The magnificence of
the rooms and of the costumes, both of gentle-
men and ladies, greatly struck me. I particularly
admired also the diamonds worn by the Princess
of Wales. The Thakore Saheb of Morvi and
I were given seats close to the Royal party, and
Chief of Gondal.
45
interest. We
watched them dancing with great interest.
afterwards followed the diplomatic procession
into the supper room.
After supper the Prince
and Princess of Wales spoke very graciously to
I was much
many of the people near them.
struck with the grace and kindness of their
manners. The gold plate displayed against the
wall in the centre of the supper room was
"brilliantly lighted up, and looked very magni-
ficent. We afterwards wandered through the
rooms and saw the historical pictures. The
wele Palace and its surroundings form the
grandest sight that I have ever seen.

30th May.
n the morning we went down to Hyde Park
Corner to see the Coaching Club drive round
the Park. The scene was interesting and
imposing. As this is the fashionable drive, we
could see before us long files of elegant equi-
pages with handsome teams and costly trappings,
mostly occupied by ladies in their best dresses.
The first coach contained the Prince of Wales
and other celebrities. There were some of the
Royal Family on the second coach also. I
16
Journal of the
admired the horses of the last coach the most.
They were coal black, like those ridden by the
Household Cavalry. I also saw some very
handsome horses in Rotten Row, a part of
which is exclusively reserved for riders. I like
the dark brown horses best, but I saw some
very pretty ones of other colours. At 3 P.M.
we called upon Lord Kimberley, and then w
to the Horse-show at Islington. The jumping
the horses was very amusing. One pony, name
Little Queen, cleared a five-barred gate an
everything else in splendid style. I sho
like to purchase her if I can. In the even
we went to see "Much ado about Nothing
the Lyceum Theatre. Henry Irving and M
Ellen Terry took the chief parts. The whole
piece was wonderfully done, and the scene in the
church where the hero is accused and swoons
upon the altar was most impressive. I wish
there were more Shakesperian plays for me to
see. Having read them beforehand I under-
stand them, and enjoy them more than I do
plays that are strange to me. I had read a
good deal about Mr. Irving as an actor,

Chief of Gondal.
4.7
and so I was glad to see him in the per-
formance.
31st May.
We occupied the morning in writing Indian
letters. In the afternoon we drove to Hamp-
stead to see Major Stace's children. Hamp-
stead is a very pretty place, and we had a fine
view of London from the hill. In the evening
we went to the Adelphi Theatre to see "Storm-
beaten," the dramatic version of Mr. Buchanan's
book, "God and the Man." Some of the scenes
inthe Arctic regions were very well depicted,
but the acting was not so good as we expected.
The sensational parts were overdrawn, and thus
became ridiculous. I like the book much better
than the play.
1st June.
We walked up to the Grosvenor Library in the
morning, looking at the shops by the way. I
saw many beautiful things, and I am making a
list of those I wish to buy. In the afternoon
we went to the Aquarium, where all sorts of
amusements, especially acrobatic performances,
afford great attraction to the people. Our chief
48
Journal of the
object in visiting the place this evening was to
see the Broncho Horses performing tricks.
Some of the tricks performed by these horses
from Colorado were very good, such as opening
and shutting a box, and taking out a handker-
chief, which they passed from one to another.
They fetched and carried like dogs, and played
see-saw, and rolled a barrel up and down an
inclined plane in an amusing way. The horses
themselves were very ugly, and I did not think
the performance better than in Cook's Cirous
in Bombay. We afterwards saw some perform-
ing pigeons go through some easy tricks, and
we saw a very fat lady dance on a tight rope
which we hoped would break! Such acrobatic
feats, however, are not new to me. I have
witnessed more extraordinary manoeuvres on
the rope performed in India by almost naked
rope dancers, who give their performances in
the streets, depending upon the gratuitous help
of a copper piece or two from the spectators.
They are simple creatures, their wants are few,
and they are satisfied with little. If they learn
to attach a little more value to their skill and
Chief of Gondal.
49
try to imitate their professional brothers in
England, in giving their performances in closed
doors, and in a little more outwardly refined
fashion, then, I think, they would probably earn
more money than they are doing at present, and
would be better thought of. We afterwards went
down to Richmond by the underground railway.
There was a great crowd, and Major Hancock
and I had to stand up in the carriages for the
first part of the way. They were so quick in
getting off the train that I was nearly left be-
hind at one of the stations. Mrs. Hancock
received us very kindly at Richmond. She is
a kind old lady, and talked to me kindly about
India. Richmond is a lovely place. The view
from the Star and Garter Hotel is exquisite.
It is a small town on the right bank of the
Thames-a favorite summer resort of the Lon-
doners. I would much rather live there than
in London, and I hope we shall move there later
on in the summer. We went for a short stroll
in Richmond Park and saw some deer. The
large expanse of green grass overshadowed by
hundreds of fine trees looks very beautiful.
50
Journal of the
2nd June.
We went for a walk in the morning up
Oxford Street to make a few purchases. In the
afternoon we drove out to Wimbledon to join a
Garden Party given by some friend of Major
Hancock named DeVas. We called upon Sir
Bartle Frere on the way. He has a large
house and garden on the road between Putney
and Wimbledon. We walked round the gardens
and were kindly received by Sir Bartle and
Lady Frere. At Wimbledon we played lawn
tennis all the afternoon in a lovely garden over-
looking the Vale of Surrey and the Epsom
Downs, where the great races, the 'Derby' and
the 'Oaks,' take place annually. The evening
we passed in the company of Mr. and Mrs.
Conway, who are also old friends of Major
Hancock. Major Hancock's two eldest sons
from Haileybury and his two eldest daughters
were also there. So we were a merry party,
and played games after dinner.
3rd June, Sunday.
In the morning we walked across Hyde Park
to see the Albert Memorial. Here on a high
Chief of Gondal.
51
marble pedestal sits the bronze gilt figure of
Prince Albert. It is surrounded by sculptural
figures representing the industries of all nations.
These are beautifully carved, and form a fit
memento of the great and good prince in whose
honour this memorial has been erected. In the
afternoon we drove to see Battersea Park,
which is very extensive, and has been laid out at
enormous cost. Our chief object in going there
was to see the Home for lost dogs, but the place
was shut. So we must go another day to
see it.
4th June.
Immediately after breakfast we walked to
Marylebone baths to see Major Hancock's boys
show off their swimming feats. They behaved
just like the seals in the Zoological Gardens, and
seemed to enjoy the water just as much. I
also saw a younger boy learning to swim. He
was supported by an India-rubber band at the
end of a pole held by a man at the side who
played him like a fish! It seems to be a capital
way to learn to swim, and I should like to have
some lessons later on. I think that there ought
52
Journal of the
I am
to be a swimming bath like this one in the Raj-
kumar College at Rajkot. Swimming is a very
useful art in more respects than one.
afraid it is getting out of fashion with the rising
generation in India. It is therefore very neces-
sary that the taste for it should be cultivated
wherever possible. Some people suppose that
swimming is a self-acquired art, needing no
master. I don't quite agree to this. As it is
an art, it should be systematically learnt like all
other arts, and the rules laid down in some of the
treatises on swimming might with advantage
be adopted anywhere. We afterwards drove to
the British Museum, which contains a most ex-
tensive collection of curiosities, specimens con-
nected with art and science, a huge library
containing innumerable books and ancient ma-
nuscripts, and a beautiful zoological collection.
I was chiefly delighted with the birds and the
birds' nests. The Birds of Paradise and the
humming birds of which I had read were here.
They are the prettiest creatures that I have ever
seen.
Most of the other Natural History speci-
mens have been transferred to the South Ken-
Chief of Gondal.
53
sington Museum, where we must go to see them.
In the afternoon we went to Ealing to see some
friends, and in the evening to St. James's
Theatre to see a piece called 'Impulse.' It was
one of the best pieces I have yet seen on an
English stage. It was very amusing, and
delighted me exceedingly.
5th June.
In the morning we walked across the Park
to the South Kensington Museum, which is a
valuable collection of models and specimens
relating to art and education, and contains also
an interesting collection of paintings. I was
very much interested in the machinery and
musical instruments. There was so much else
to see that I must go there again another day.
In the afternoon I went with Major Hancock's
children to Madam Tussaud's Wax-work Exhibi-
tion. Here was a collection of life-like figures
made of wax. The works are very good indeed.
I admired the figure called the 'present fashion'
more than any of the others.
It was very
curious to see the different fashions of so many
centuries grouped together in the same place.
54
Journal of the
(
I visited the Chamber of Horrors' as they call
it, but I did not see anything deserving the
epithet. It contains casts of executed criminals,
but for all this the chamber did not present me
the least ghastly appearance. I spent the
evening with Mr. Syud Mahomed, a Judge of
the High Court in Bengal, whose acquaintance
I made on board ship, and whom I like very
much.
6th June.
I wrote Indian letters all the morning. In
the afternoon we went to a Lawn-tennis party
given by Sir Barrow Ellis, where I met several
old Indian acquaintances. The gardens are
pretty, but the tennis was bad, and the young
lady who was my partner could not play a bit !
In the evening we went to a Reception at the
Marchioness of Salisbury's. The rooms were
very crowded, and we were about an hour passing
through. It was rather fun to watch the crush.
Lord Salisbury spoke to me very kindly, and
plenty of people stopped to admire me, or
rather my jewels, which amused me a good
deal.
Chief of Gondal.
55
7th June.
We went down by a special train to see the
Race for the Gold Cup at Ascot. It rained a
little in the morning, but the afternoon was fine,
and we had a good view of the race from the
Royal Stand. Only four horses started. Dutch
Oven was the favourite, and looked much the
handsomest, but an ugly French horse named
Tristan took the lead about half way round and
won pretty easily. Such are the freaks of for-
tune. In matters of gain and loss, success and
failure, chance indeed plays a prominent part.
Presumption or over-confidence avails naught.
It was very pleasant walking about in the Pad-
dock and in the Royal Enclosure. The Prince
and Princess of Wales drove up the course in
State just before the commencement of the
races. They looked bright and khush as usual,
and were cheered loudly by the crowd as they
passed by. We got back in good time for dinner,
and went to see "Rip Van Winkle" at the
Comedy Theatre in the evening. I had read
the story of the hero, and so was able to follow
the acting with great interest. The fairy scene
56
Journal of the
with the changing play of coloured lights upon
the fairies was very beautiful. Some of the
actresses were very pretty, especially Miss
Comille D'Arville, who acted the part of the
village flirt. The return of the old man to his
native village after his long slumber, to find all
changed, was rather sad. The piece vividly
brought home to my mind the fact that one
should try to keep pace with the time, if he
would not lag behind to find the whole world
topsy-turvy and not in unison with his own stale
thought. j
8th June:
Immediately after breakfast we went to the
Crystal Palace with a party of friends. It was
a lovely day, so we first of all explored the
grounds and the maze, and then went through
the Palace, which is constructed entirely of glass
and iron. It is full of interesting things arranged
in different courts. I bought a wonderful stick
which I could put into my pocket, and a few
other trifling things. Amongst other things we
saw some ivory turning, some ribbon-making and
sweetmeat making. We were also
some sweetmeat
Chief of Gondal.
57
weighed, electrified, and had the capacity of our
lungs tested. I do not think there was much
the matter with any of us. A band was playing
most of the time, and it was pleasant walking
up and down amongst the tropical flowers
and trees, which are very well arranged. In the
evening we went to see ' Iolanthe' at the Savoy
Theatre. The first scene, where there is a river
of real water running through a bridge upon the
stage, was very pretty and ingenious, and the
rising of 'Iolanthe' from the stream was accom-
plished very cleverly. The last scene, showing
the Clock Tower and the Houses of Parliament
at Westminster, was wonderfully real. The songs
were very amusing, and the electric stars worn
by all the fairies in the closing scene were very
astonishing and beautiful. It was particularly
amusing to see the stars suddenly appear upon
the heads of those touched by the Fairy Queen!
9th June.
At 11 o'clock we drove down to St. Gabriel's
Church to see Mr. Percy FitzGerald married to
Miss Brymer Belcher. It was a very pretty and
novel sight to me.
The bride and her eight
7
58
Journal of the
bridesmaids were all dressed in white silks and
satins, and held beautiful bouquets of flowers in
their hands. The bride wore a white lace veil
and looked very elegant. The ceremonies were
extremely brief and simple when compared to the
Hindu marriage ceremonies, which naturally to
me are more interesting and touching if their
meaning be properly understood. We afterwards
went to the house of the bride's father and saw
the bridal pair drive happily away. We met Mr.
and Mrs. Macnaghten, Mrs. and Miss Wode-
house, Captain Humfrey, the Thakore Saheb of
Morvi and other old friends there. In the after-
noon we went down to St. Leonard's by an ex-
press train which only stopped once upon the way.
It was like going from Rajkot to Wadhwan-a
distance of about sixty miles as the crow flies-
in less than a couple of hours, stopping only to
pick up a few people at Chotila! Major Han-
cock's two youngest sons met us at the station,
and we spent the evening at the house of Mrs.
Hancock's father, the Rev. Mr. Hume, who was
most kind to me.
Chief of Gondal.
59
10th June, Sunday.
I went off to the Pier in the morning with
Major Hancock's little boys. It was a nice
fresh morning after a wet night, and the air was
most delicious. The Parade was full of people,
and the whole place looked bright and cheerful.
In the afternoon we went for a drive in the
country, and visited a Mr. Young's house, called
the 'Grove,' at Hollington. He took us round
his garden, and gave us some strawberries.
We also saw young apples and pears, and
peaches and nectarines, and currants and goose-
berries coming on. I afterwards went for a row
on the water, and tried to row for the first time.
In India it would be considered derogatory for
a chief to go a-rowing. But I find it a very
pleasant exercise. It is, however, necessary
to know how to swim before having anything
to do with a boat. In England rowing is sup-
posed to be a great accomplishment. And the
people seem to have made the sea a sort of play-
ground on which they play and sport themselves
with as much alacrity as they do on their
cricket fields. I should like to practise rowing
GO
Journal of the
if possible. St. Leonard's is a very pretty place,
and I particularly admired the Subscription
Gardens behind the Victoria Hotel.
11th June.
I
We went off to Cambridge by an early train,
getting there soon after 1 o'clock. Hurbhamji
met us at the station, and after taking luncheon
with him in his rooms we went to see the bicycle
races, and after that the boat races. Both were
very amusing, and I enjoyed the afternoon.
The gardens and fields in the neighbourhood of
the Colleges are very pretty. I never saw such
fine avenues of trees before. We spent the
evening in Hurbhamji's rooms with a small party
of undergraduates. He showed us some nice
collections of photographs, while some played
whist and others talked away the evening very
pleasantly.
12th June.
We walked round the Colleges after breakfast,
seeing most of the Halls and Chapels and the
Fitz William Museum. The chapels are very
handsomely decorated, and I especially admired
the interior of King's. The Fitz William Museum
Chief of Gondal.
61
is built of marble, and contains pictures, statues,
books and engravings. There is very little else
in it. We then walked through the town, which
appeared to be small and not well situated. But
for the College buildings the place would not
have been attractive in the least. I bought a
few photographs of the places we visited. In
the afternoon we played lawn tennis in the
meadows behind the Colleges. Dajiraj and
Kalubha (of Wadhwan) arrived at our hotel with
Mr. Warden in the evening, and after dinner we
all went to a reception given by Hurbhamji at
Mr. Borrisow's. On the whole, I may say with-
out reserve, I was not much impressed with
Cambridge. It may be perhaps that it is sur
rounded by a mathematical atmosphere which
was too hard for my lungs to breathe!
13th June.
We left Cambridge by an early train, reaching
Oxford at 11-30, just in time for me to join the
procession to the Theatre, where the honorary
degrees were conferred on distinguished per-
sons. The Duke and Duchess of Albany and
many other notables were present. I sat next
62
Journal of the
to Lord Napier, and was greatly struck and
delighted with the proceedings. The Chancellor
was constantly interrupted in his opening speech
by the students, who shouted all sorts of things
from the galleries. Some of their remarks were
rather witty and made everybody laugh. The
Public Orator made a speech in Latin. I could
not understand it, and I am sure half the people
were in the same category with me.
The speech
might as well have been delivered in English,
which was intelligible to all. But I think it is the
common fashion of the pundits or rather pedants
of all countries to make an ostentation of
their learning. I could, however, hear that it
was splendidly delivered. Three or four gra-
duates then recited their prize essays, the first
of which was very interesting, as it was directed
against the weaknesses of many well-known
authorities. The Commemoration Day, as it is
called, passed off very pleasantly, though I could
not help thinking that the conduct of the
undergraduates was, to say the least, not student-
like. Such turbulent behaviour of disciples to-
wards their preceptors would be past all belief
Chief of Gondal.
63
in India, where something like divine respect
is paid to the Gurus by their pupils. After
the ceremony was over we repaired to All Souls'
College, and afterwards went to a Masonic
Fête in the gardens of St. John's College.
The gardens are very pretty, and the weather
was very enjoyable. I was presented to the
Duke of Albany and introduced to Dr. Markby,
Dr. Fowler, Dr. Acland, Mr. Thorley, Sir William
Anson, and many others during the afternoon.
We spent the evening at Dr. Fowler's of Corpus
Christi College. The Doctor was very kind and
friendly.
14th June.
The morning we passed in the company of
Dr. Acland, Regius Professor of Medicine. He
introduced us to Mr. Newton and some other
great men, each of whom seemed to be more
clever than the last! After breakfast we went
to see the ordinary degrees conferred in the
Sheldonian Theatre. We then went to see
the Museum, where there is a most complete
collection of scientific objects. Dr. Acland
kindly met us there and showed us through the
64
Journal of the
studies and laboratories attached to the institu-
tion. These are fitted up with every conve-
nience for learning each branch of scientific
research, and every possible facility is thus
afforded the students of perfecting their know-
ledge on all points. After passing some time
with Mr. Thorley, the Warden of Wadham
College, we visited the gardens and some of the
Halls and Chapels of the Colleges, which are
even more beautiful than those at Cambridge.
In the afternoon we went for an expedition
down the river with Mr. Cleaver, who rowed us
through the parks and gardens adjoining the
Charwell, which is an extremely beautiful river.
It was very pretty and enjoyable. We passed
the evening with Dr. Mackby at Headington
Hill, where he has a pretty house and gardens.
He was very kind, and advised me to come to
Oxford some day and be attached for some time
to one of the Colleges to complete my educa-
tion.
15th June.
In the morning I wrote Indian letters till 12
o'clock. Then I went to Shyamji Pandit's to
Chief of Gondal.
65
lunch with him. At 3 we again went to the
Museum, where Professor Clifton kindly showed
us all the apparatus used for making experi-
ments in physical science. Afterwards I attend-
ed a Japanese tea party held at a friend's house.
Japanese tea consists of a weak decoction
without milk or sugar. The process is simple
enough. They boil the water in the first place,
and pour it out in a tea-pot to cool down a
little. When it is lukewarm a small quantity
of green tea is mixed up with it. It is then served
out in very tiny cups holding about a couple of
ounces of liquid. The decoction is not at all
nice. On our way home I bought some views.
of Oxford. It
It turned out rather cold and
cloudy in the evening. My visit to Oxford,
the most ancient and renowned seat of learning
in England, was one of the pleasantest. I like
the place very much, and I will carry with me
the best recollections of what I have seen and
enjoyed there.
16th June.
We left Oxford by the 9 o'clock express, and
reached Paddington in about an hour and a
8
66
Journal of the
half. At two, we went to Hengler's Circus, but
were disappointed to find it closed. We then
went to the Royal Aquarium, where something or
other is always going on.
There I saw some
conjuring tricks, and a capital performance by
some acrobats. They performed gymnastics on
trapezes hung at a great height, and every now
and then dropped into a great net hung below
them. Two of them were quite little boys. In
the evening we went to see The Silver King'
at the Princess's Theatre. This is one of the
plays I liked best. The plot is simple enough,
but the acting is very good. All seems natural
and nothing overdrawn, as is too often the case.
17th June.
C
We went to Kew Gardens in the afternoon.
Some of the tropical houses are well arranged and
the whole place is well cared for, but I did not
admire them so much as other gardens. Every
shrub has its own soil and climate adapted to
its natural growth. The artificial means used
in rearing a plant of a foreign clime and ripen-
ing its fruits by force and torture did not com-
mend themselves to my thought. It may be a
Chief of Gondal.
67
good achievement from a scientific stand-point,
but for all that it is not natural. Nature and
Art have, I think, their own functions assigned
to them. They preserve their charms as long
as they keep a reasonable distance from each
other. Nature, I am afraid, will lose her attrac-
tions if Art is allowed to encroach upon her
sacred precincts. But during my short sojourn
in London and its environs I have observed that
it is the general desire to imitate Nature so far
as may be by artificial processes. The hothouses
at Kew are a good illustration. We then saw
Miss North's collection of pictures. I thought
her flower painting very good, but did not admire
her sketches. The afternoon was showery and
cold.
18th June.
We walked up to the Grosvenor Library in
the morning, and thence down Bond Street to
Piccadilly. This appears to be a great business
street. It contains beautiful shops and the
fashionable residences of wealthy personages. I
made a few purchases here, and then called upon
friend the Thakore Saheb of Wadwan at the
my
68
Journal of the
Langham Hotel. This Thakore Saheb was, like
myself, a bird of passage in the country. I was
extremely pleased to meet him. In a foreign
country where one finds strangers all around one
feels intense delight in meeting a fellow-country-
man. That fellow-countryman may be perfectly
unknown to him. But there is always something
in the similarity of language, manners, dress, or
even the very mode of thinking that draws their
minds towards each other. I think it is the result
of mutual sympathy which is indefinable in its
nature. Dajiaj, however, was no stranger to me.
We lived together under the same roof for
many years, and hence my pleasure at seeing
him and his brother now and then can well be
imagined. In the afternoon I went to Mr. and
Mrs. Macnaghten's house in Ebury Street,
where I met Hurbhamji, and spent a pleasant
evening.
19th June.
We walked up Oxford Street in the morning,
where I ordered two photographic albums-one
for Gondal pictures and one for the photographs
I have collected during my travels. We drove
Chief of Gondal.
69
back from Oxford Circus on the top of an
omnibus, which, I think, is a very pleasant way
of travelling. In the afternoon we went to see
Maskelyne and Cooke's entertainment. They
exposed the tricks of the Davenport Brothers,
whose tricks were very ingenious, but in this
case the performers tied themselves instead of
being tied up by other people before they enter-
ed the dark cabinet and freed themselves, which
appeared to me to spoil the merit of the perform-
ance. This was followed by a musical perform-
ance by automatic instruments, and then by a
light and dark séance in which ghosts appeared
and seemed to wander about above the audience.
There was also an automaton figure which drew
the picture of Lord Beaconsfield in a seemingly
inexplicable way. I think the picture was drawn
the paper beforehand, and subsequently
made to appear gradually under either electric
or chemical influence. But I cannot say any-
thing with certainty. Many credulous people
would perhaps call such tricks miraculous.
But I am not a believer in miracles. For every-
thing goes upon certain rules and principles.
on
70
Journal of the
These are not known to all. As long as a phe-
nomenon is beyond the scope of our understand-
ing we call it a miracle. But it ceases to be
such as soon as the principles upon which it is
worked are known and explained. It is within
the power of man to bring these hidden principles
to light by constant application and methodical
study. Such being the case, as I believe it to
be, the word 'miraculous' becomes a mere con-
ventional term.
20th June.
b
I wrote letters all the morning. In the after-
noon we drove to the Welsh Harp at Hendon,
and went for a row upon the lake. The lake.
is a fine piece of water, and the surrounding
scenery is very pretty. We also practised rifle
shooting at bottles, and I hit one after two or
three attempts. It is a very good exercise,
though, as a mere pastime, I would prefer
archery-an art which was once the glory of
India and which is still cultivated among the
hill-tribes. We have a roll of names of the
most accomplished archers India ever produced,
whose feats are wonderful-far more wonderful
Chief of Gondal.
71
than those of William Tell, who is sung in ballads
simply because he shot an apple from the head
of his child. It is a pity that the art is dying
out. It gives plenty of exercise, expands the
chest and trains the eye. I wish I could learn
it well. We went to see 'Youth' at Drury Lane
Theatre in the evening. The scenes showing
the departure of a Troop-ship, and a fight be-
tween the Egyptians and the English, were very
sensational and splendidly arranged. The
prison scene was also very good, and the
church scene, where a number of small boys
came trooping out of church in tall hats, was
very amusing.
21st June.
We went to see Doré's pictures, and paid a
second visit to the Academy. I was astonished
at the size of Doré's pictures, in which the figures
were even larger than life. The subjects were
chiefly allegorical. As specimens of art they
were truly clever. But as the subjects were
mostly scriptural I was not much impressed with
them. We went to the Crystal Palace in the
evening to see a display of fireworks. There
72
Journal of the
was a representation of the siege of Gibraltar,
which created a great sensation. There were
also some set pieces, of which I think that of a
snake pursuing a butterfly was very ingenious.
The lake and fountains were lighted up with
coloured lights and looked very pretty. The
display concluded with a cascade of sparks,
which looked like a golden waterfall, and lasted
a long time. These fireworks were very good,
but I have seen some Indian fireworks which
were quite as good and, in some respects, much
better than these. But to say the truth, I am
not much fond of pyrotechnic displays. They
seem to me to be a great waste of money.
22nd June.
We went down by train to Woolwich to see the
Arsenal. We arrived a little too soon, so we
went for a short trip on the river Thames, which
in point of length is only a streamlet when com-
pared to the Ganges or the Indus, but which has
gained importance by the fact that its
Ample breast displays unfurl'd
The ensigns of the assembled world.'
We made the excursion in a penny boat past
1
Chief of Gondal.
73
the Dockyard. We went back by a tramway
and were shown all over the works by Major
Tarleton and another Artillery Officer, who
explained everything to us. We saw some most
enormous guns, the shot and shell for which
were almost as big as I am! We saw large
masses of iron taken out of furnaces and ham-
mered into shape by machine hammers which
struck heavily or lightly as desired. We also saw
all the details of shot and shell and bullet mak-
ing, and of the manufacture of gun carriages and
other equipments for both military and naval
warfare. This manufactory gives one some idea
of the power and might of England. Every
accessory of war is here turned out regardless of
expense. The town of Woolwich is neither big
nor interesting. I found it to be an extremely
filthy and dirty place. The Dockyard and the
Arsenal (which is by-the-by the only Arsenal
in the kingdom) are its only attractions.
The place has a poor appearance and is full
of apparently common people. In the evening
we went to see 'Fedora' at the Haymarket
Theatre. It is a French piece, and gave one
}
9
$74
Journal of the
some idea of continental life: otherwise I did not
like it as much as other pieces I have seen.
23rd June.
We drove out to Finchley in the afternoon to
join a lawn tennis party at the house of a Mr.
and Mrs. Fox-friends of Major Hancock. It
is a pretty drive, passing Hampstead on the
right and Harrow on the left, until we reached
the Finchley Hill. Most of the hay fields.
were being cut, and the fields all looked very
green and pleasant. We played tennis in a very
pretty garden full of roses and all sorts of
flowers. It was very pleasant playing on the
grass, and I wish we could manage to lay down
such nice lawns in India. I think it might be
managed by constant watering. After dinner
we went out tricycling. The tricycle is very easy
to ride, but requires great strength to propel it.
I would much rather learn to ride the bicycle,
which goes much faster and more pleasantly,
though I must say it has more chances of being
upset. The tumbles, however, can be avoided
by pluck and perseverance on the part of the
rider.
Chief of Gondal.
75
24th June, Sunday.
I went to Westminster Abbey to hear the
afternoon service. I liked the singing very
much. The Abbey, with its beautifully coloured
walls and marble columns, presents a very
imposing appearance. It is the great burial
place for persons who have won honour and
renown in peace or war. It is justly styled
the Temple of Fame, and I must go to see again
the many interesting monuments it contains,
as we were not allowed to explore the place on
Sunday.
25th June.
This was the day of the great Oxford and
Cambridge Cricket Match. I had a good place
in the Grand Stand, and watched the play with
much interest until the afternoon, when it was
interrupted and spoilt by heavy rain. It is
extraordinary how much interest the public
take in such a match. There were thousands
of people all round the ground eagerly watch-
ing every incident of the game. The play, as
far as it went, was excellent, and I admired the
quick fielding very much, although I myself am
76
Journal of the
not very fond of the game. The match was,
no doubt, very keenly contested, and the
admirable effort of the one party to make
runs, and of the other to prevent them, was
so great, and every one on his post was so
alert to do his assigned work, that it was
easy to understand how a great General-as I
have somewhere read-learnt the art of war on
the cricket-field. I think this modern play of
cricket is a new edition of the 'stick and ball,'
which was a very favourite game in India in re-
mote antiquity, and in which the renowned
Krishna and his playmates are said to have taken
a great delight. The same game, though in
somewhat altered form, is played by the boys
in most parts of India even at this day. But
the rules and system are not so perfect as in
cricket. The beauty of all Indian games, how-
ever, is that they give ample exercise to the
limbs without costing much. They are remark-
ably cheap as compared to the English games,
both out-door and in-door, which are enormously
expensive with all their paraphernalia. The
gameof billiards, for instance, must tax the purse
Chief of Gondal.
77
to the tune of at least one thousand rupees, thus
debarring common folks from indulging in it.
It is a pity that old Indian games are rapidly
dying out. We met the Kemballs and Mr. and
Mrs. Macnaghten there, and Major Hancock
met many old friends. In the evening we went
to see the 'Danischefs' at the Court Theatre-a
very pretty piece, showing the triumphs of true
love and magnanimity.
26th June.
We drove down to the India Office in the
morning to obtain orders for the House of Com-
mons, the Jewel Room at the Tower, and seats
at a trial at the Mansion House. We walked
back through the Parks, which were very cool
and pleasant, but we got caught in a thunder-
shower at the corner of Hyde Park. Such freaks
of the Rain-God are most common in England
all the year round. In India we experience
them only in the monsoon.
We have the
advantage of enjoying all the seasons fully
and well, while in this country we have only one
prevailing season, the rest are fitfully enjoyed
in small bits. I suppose there is no country in
78
Journal of the
the world where the seasons are so equally
divided as in India, where one can enjoy any
sort of climate he likes somewhere or other. It
was too wet in the afternoon to go out, so we
stayed in and answered Indian letters.
27th June.
We went to Lord's cricket grounds in the
morning to see the conclusion of the Oxford and
Cambridge Cricket Match. Oxford did very well
in the second innings, getting the same score as
Cambridge had done in their first in much more
favorable weather. Cambridge won easily, how-
ever, by seven wickets. The Oxford eleven
seemned to be disheartened, and did not field so
well in the second innings. We went to see
the new Water Colour Exhibition in the after-
noon. I admired the landscapes very much, but
not the portraits, which are always better done in
oils. In the evening we went to a State Con-
cert at Buckingham Palace, where we heard some
of the best singers of the day. I particularly
liked one piece which resembled native music,
of which I am very fond. In matters of likes
and dislikes it is not possible to lay down a
Chief of Gondal.
79
rule. Every one has his own individual taste.
I for one prefer Indian to European music,
for the former is more ancient, more scientific,
and more complete as a science. The European
music is something like a pen and ink sketch,
exhibiting only broad outlines, while a native
Rág is like a complete picture, showing the
minutest shades and colours to perfection.
Indian music should be studied and understood.
to be appreciated. The European ear is not
trained to recognise the melody in the various
combinations of sound, and the perfect harmony
in the instruments which are often indispensable
accompaniments of Indian music. In this Royal
gathering' God save the Queen' was given in a
very charming manner.
28th June.
This was speech day at Haileybury, which I
had promised Major Hancock's son to be present.
at. We got there about 3 o'clock, and the
speeches lasted for about a couple of hours.
The recitations were better than those at our
own College at Rajkot, but the whole arrange-
ments did not appear to me to be quite so good.
80
Journal of the
nor did the master speak so well as Mr. Mac-
naghten or Mr. Selby. We afterwards walked
round the grounds, and saw the boys' dormito-
ries. The boys seem well cared for, but their
rooms are not so comfortable as our rooms at
Rajkot. The place itself is very pretty, and
surrounded by fine woods and trees. We went
to a Volunteers' Ball at Lincoln's Inn Hall in
the evening, which was crowded with fashionable
people. We met Mr. Scoble and a few other
Indian acquaintances there. The Hall is very
spacious and lofty and well adapted to a dance.
So many people were anxious for me to dance
that I think I must take some lessons in qua-
drilles at least. This would be considered a
very novel step in India, where the art is confined
to the professional few, especially of the femi-
nine sex. Somehow or other dancing has
fallen into bad repute. But I take particular
delight in our native dance. The various move-
ments of limbs, which appear distasteful to a
foreigner, are, to my mind, full of charm and
meaning. There is a ring of gracefulness about
it which is, I believe, wanting in an European
Chief of Gondal.
81
dance. The approach to the supper room was
decorated in Oriental fashion. Our native
friends, who are always aping English fashions,
might learn a lesson from this. Everybody
seemed to be highly delighted, and it was a
pleasure to sit and watch them for a time.
29th June.
We drove to a Fête at Chelsea Hospital in the
afternoon. The Guards Band played on the
terrace, and chairs were arranged about the
lawns, where people promenaded, awaiting the
arrival of the Duke and Duchess of Albany.
We were pressed to buy flowers and many other
things for the good of the Charity, which was
rather a pleasant way of doing it. In England
care is taken to bestow charity on those only
who are really needy and quite unable to work for
themselves, and not on those who are stout and
able to earn their livelihood by manual labour.
Begging in the streets is made penal. I think
some such Act is necessary in India, where
street beggars are often very troublesome. I am
always in favour of helping the infirm and the
destitute. We went to see the
We went to see the opera of 'Dinora'
10
82
Journal of the
in the evening. Patti was the chief singer of
the evening, and the way in which she sang the
shadow song was very much applauded. There
was a thunderstorm on our way home, which
cooled the air and gave us a pleasant night.
30th June.
I went to show my foot to Sir Joseph Fayrer
in the morning, who gave me a lotion for it, and
advised me to keep it up as much as possible.
It was rather an expensive lotion, so it ought to
do me good! We spent the afternoon on the
river at Richmond, and played a rubber of
whist after dinner. I felt glad to pass such a
pleasant quiet evening for a change. Rich-
mond is much prettier than London.
1st July, Sunday.
I was laid up and rested my foot the greater
part of the day. We went for a drive in the
afternoon, calling on Mr. Cassels and Colonel
Watson's brother in Kensington upon our way.
2nd July.
We visited the Tower of London in the morn-
ing, where we saw the State jewels and some
other Royal objects of interest. The place is
Chief of Gondal.
83
We
full of relics of old English history, and many
parts of the Tower itself, such as the Traitors'
Gate, the room in the Bloody Tower where the
young princes were smothered, the White Tower,
the Council Chamber, and the Banquetting Hall
recal startling historical events. We visited
the Armoury, containing some hundred thousand
stand of arms; afterwards the Horse Armoury,
containing a collection of armour and of ancient
arms very cleverly and carefully arranged.
went out on the roof, from which we had a new
and interesting view of London and the river.
It is strange to think that this small place was
once one of the Royal residences in England.
The rooms remind one now more of old durbar
rooms in India than anything else. In the
evening we went to see the 'Lyons Mail' at the
Lyceum Theatre. This is a sensational piece in
which Henry Irving takes two parts, one as a
highwayman who robbed the Lyons Mail and
murdered the guard, and one as innkeeper's son
who is falsely accused of the crime, the two
being as like as twin brothers to each other.
The acting was very good, more especially the
84
Journal of the
scene where the father reproaches his son for
his imaginary crime, and begs him to shoot
himself rather than disgrace the family upon the
scaffold. The last scene too is very exciting,
where the real murderer is seized and made a
prisoner on the stage.
3rd July.
We went to Brighton by the 10 o'clock express
train from Victoria to see the Royal Aquarium.
Brighton is a nice sea-side town, resorted to by
tourists in large numbers. We first of all went
for a drive into the country and along the King's
Road, where we saw the Brighton world pro-
menading. We returned to the Aquarium for
some refreshment. It is a beautiful place, and
I was greatly pleased with the large glass tanks,
about forty in number, full of various kinds of
fish. The sea-lions interested me the most.
I also noticed here an aquatic animal of radiate
type, called the sea anemone. It is almost as
beautiful as a flower, and looked like it from a
little distance. It was very curious to watch
the habits of the different fish. Most of them
crept about in the dark corners looking for food.
Chief of Gondal.
85
There were
All seemed quite happily at home.
some musical and other performances in the
afternoon. They were very poor, but the
Aquarium itself is quite interesting enough with-
out them. In the evening we went to the
Houses of Parliament to hear a debate. We
heard several short speeches on the Corrupt
Practices Bill, chiefly against using churches
as Parliamentary Committee rooms. The sub-
ject of the debate was not at all interesting to
me. I expected to hear speeches like those of
Burke's I had read. But I was very much dis-
appointed. It would have afforded me great
pleasure to hear Mr. Gladstone. I must go
again when something more interesting has to
be discussed.
4th July.
We drove to Mrs. Runting, the celebrated
chiropodist in Andly Street, immediately after
breakfast, to have my corns attended to. One
of her sons operated very skilfully upon my foot,
and has left me in comparative comfort. I am
to go once more to complete the cure. In the
afternoon we went to a Botanical Fête in
86
Journal of the
the Horticultural Society's Gardens in Regent's
Park. A band played there and it was very
pleasant. We saw bamboos and plantains and
many other tropical plants in the green-houses.
I admired the fuchsias very much and should
like to introduce them into Gondal. In the
afternoon we attended a reception at Lady
Brassey's in Park Lane. I was shown all over
the house, which is splendidly decorated with
pictures and old China and other ornaments, and
is most luxuriously fitted up. Madame Trebelli
and some other famous singers sang to us in
the drawing room, where we heard them at
much greater advantage than on the stage. Sir
Thomas and Lady Brassey were very kind to me.
5th July.
We went to Henley by an early train to see
the Regatta. Crews from the Universities and
some of the Public Schools generally take part
in it. Major Hancock secured a seat for me in
the grand stand during the first part of the day.
After luncheon I went upon the water in a boat
belonging to Mr. and Mrs. Fox, who were so
kind to us at Finchley. It was a fine bright
Chief of Gondal.
87
afternoon, the racing was very good, the scenery
was exquisite, and I enjoyed it all.
6th July.
We went off to see the Dog Show at the Crys-
tal Palace immediately after breakfast. It was
well worth seeing. But I was astonished at the
prices put upon the dogs. One was actually
priced at £10,000, and several others at £1,000.
Most of the mastiffs were £100 a piece. I want
to buy one, but I am not certain whether the mas-
tiff could be acclimatised in India. I know that
with some kinds of dogs the tropical climate
does not agree. The bull-dogs were wonderfully
ugly, and the more ugly they were, the more
valuable they seemed to be! There was a large
collection of fox-terriers, but none of them seem-
ed to me to be better than my own. The St. Ber-
nards and Newfoundlands were splendid-look-
ing dogs. They would die in India from the
heat in their rough coats, or I would prefer them
to any other dogs, except a mastiff, because of
its smooth coat, and also because it is generally
more handsome and noble looking. Of course,
every dog has his own characteristics and use-
88
Journal of the
fulness. I have read many stories of the St.
Bernardine dog, which is a breed almost pecu-
liar to the Alps, where the monks train him for
aiding lost travellers. The Newfoundland is
noted for his affection for man. He is a water-
dog, and is capable of saving many a man from
drowning. Such a dog might, no doubt, prove a
very valuable companion. I am very fond of
dogs. As a rule they are very faithful creatures.
I think it is Lord Byron who has immortalised
his dog by saying he is
In life the firmest friend,
The first to welcome, foremost to defend;
Whose honest heart is still his master's own;
Who labours, fights, lives, breathes for him alone.'
This is a very high compliment paid to a
member of the canine race. It is indeed a
great pity that when dogs in Europe are .so
much cared for and valued, their unfortunate
brethren in India, known by the vulgar name of
Pariah, should be entirely neglected and dis-
owned. Indian dogs are quite capable of being
perfectly trained. The watch-dogs of the Bin-
jarees and the Tibetan dogs are the indigenous
Chief of Gondal.
89
breed of the country, and they render yeoman
service to their masters, so it would cause no
surprise if animals that are now considered
as mere outcasts turned out to be
very useful
and rise in the people's estimation by a course.
of training and careful breeding. Gradually they
might be made to replace the greyhounds, boar-
hounds or bull-terriers which are now employed
in pulling down game. In the afternoon we
went for a drive through the Parks, and in the
evening went to see 'Artful Cards' and 'Stage
Dora' at Toole's Theatre. The latter is a tra-
vestie on Fedora, and the actress, Miss Marie
Linden, who acted the part of 'Stage Dora,' took
off Sarah Bernhardt and Mrs. Bernard Beere most
inimitably. She did some ridiculous things,
besides jumping on the sofa to embrace her
lover, half strangling him, and tearing off his
necktie and covering his clothes with white
powder in her excess of emotion. Her strug-
gles on the floor and antics on the couches
were only exaggerations of the real Fedora's
acting, and made us all laugh ourselves into fits.
The acting in 'Artful Cards' was also very
11
90
Journal of the
good, Mr. Toole taking the chief parts. I was
certainly more amused with this theatre than
I have been elsewhere yet.
7th July.
In the afternoon we drove to Wimbledon to
see the Lawn Tennis Tournament for the cham-
pionship, calling on Sir Bartle Frere upon the
way. He invited us to a garden party on the
17th to meet the Duke and Duchess of Con-
naught. We reached Wimbledon just in time
to see the match between Messrs. Loford and
E. Renshaw, the younger brother of the present
champion. It was an excellent game. Both
of them played very well, but I like Renshaw's
style much better than Loford's. I should like
very much to see the two Renshaws play off the
final game for the championship. After the
play was over, we drove to Richmond and had
a pleasant evening with Mrs. Hancock. The
drive between Wimbledon and Richmond is very
beautiful, and I enjoyed it very much indeed.
8th July, Sunday.
We went to Richmond again for the after-
noon. Major Hancock and I walked in the
Chief of Gondal.
91
We saw lots of
and let us go
These are very
Park for about an hour or so.
deer. They were very tame
within fifty yards of them.
different from the Indian deer, which are much
more beautiful. At any rate it can be no fun
shooting those poor creatures, who let you go
so near them and expect no harm from you.
This forcibly reminds me of the touching appeal
addressed to King Dushyant by the Hermit in
'Shakuntala.' He says:
"Now heaven forbid this barbèd shaft descend
Upon the fragile body of a fawn,
Like fire upon a heap of tender flowers!
Can thy steel bolts no meeter quarry find
Than the warm life-blood of a harmless deer?
Restore, great Prince, thy weapon to its quiver-
More it becomes thy arms to shield the weak,
Than to bring anguish on the innocent."
On the same principle I heartily detest the
wanton practice of shooting pigeons, parrots and
other innocent creatures. Pigeon-shooting has
been recently introduced into India by some
Europeans as a sort of pastime! Richmond
Park is much more beautiful than any other
place near London, and I am looking forward
•
92
Journal of the
with pleasure to the time when we are going to
stay in Richmond for a few days and ride about
the Park. We went back by train to London.
The train was so full that four or five
persons
had to stand in each carriage. It was rather fun
to see the crush, and some of the people with us
kept on laughing the whole way. The trains
are very full on Sundays, because many people
go from London to spend the day at Richmond
and enjoy the evening.
9th July.
We left for Cheltenham by the 12 o'clock
train from Paddington, getting there soon after
4 o'clock. Major Justinian Nutt met us at the
station and took us to the hotel. We then
paid our visit to Mrs. Nutt. She is a kind old
lady, and one of the oldest inhabitants of Chel-
tenham, about which she told us almost every-
thing. After tea we walked round the park and
the Montpelier Gardens. The latter contain
the finest lawn tennis courts I have ever seen.
We also saw some ladies there practising archery.
This is considered as a masculine game in India.
But as the Indian women-mostly of the upper
Chief of Gondal.
93
ten-are very weak in body, they must have, in
my opinion, some such exercise, which, while
affording them amusement, would tend to im-
prove their health. I think archery is a harm-
less pleasant thing for women to indulge in.]
One of the women I saw here hit the target
almost every time, and it was amusing to watch
them shooting. Cheltenham is in great favour
with Anglo-Indians. All its roads are lined
with trees and they are beautifully kept. There
are some fine buildings scattered about, and the
hills in the distance look very picturesque.
10th July.
I stayed at home in the morning to read the
'Historyof Our Own Times,' by Justice MacCar-
thy, in which I am much interested, whilst Major
Hancock went out to see Colonel LaTouche's
children. We afterwards strolled down the pro-
menade towards the best shops, where I bought
some very pretty articles. We met Colonel
Strutt and his sister. The former recognised
me, and assisted us to choose some good photo-
graphs of Cheltenham. I remember him at
Rajkot as being very fond of taking photographs
94
Journal of the
himself. After luncheon we went over to the
College, and watched the boys playing a cricket
match. It is a fine College, and has an excel-
lent playground, where there is room for any
number of boys to play. We afterwards went
to a garden party given by a Mr. Pringle, an
old Bombay civilian, who was very kind and
polite to me. We played lawn-tennis until
half-past six. Of all out-door games I like lawn-
tennis and rackets the most, for they afford
much healthy exercise. They are neither too
violent nor too dull sports, but are thoroughly
enjoyable games, "pleasant to play at" and
pleasant to see played." We then went to
Mrs. Nutt's house, where we passed a pleasant
evening.
"(
11th July.
We went to Clifton after breakfast to see
Mrs. Watson and her children, as well as General
Law, who resides there. General Law showed
us his bee-hives, in which we could see the bees
at work through glass windows in the sides.
This was very interesting. I am rather inclined
to suppose that all those who spend their days
Chief of Gondal.
95
....
in idleness and are busy doing nothing will do
well to keep such an excellent emblem of in-
dustry in their drawing rooms. To watch these
little insects engaged each in its own work will,
I doubt not, be a very instructive sight to them.
They will realise before their eyes the fact that
the fruit of industry is sweet as honey-nay
sweeter than honey itself. Clifton is not such a
fine place as Cheltenham, but it also contains a
large College for boys and many handsome resi-
dences. We passed the evening with Mrs.
Nutt and her family in Cheltenham, who were
very kind and cordial.
12th July..
We drove to the Pitville Gardens and Pump-
rooms on our way to the station in a little pony
carriage. The gardens are very pretty and con-
tain a small lake. All the country round is very
pretty and inviting. We got down to London
about 4 o'clock, and rested ourselves till the
evening, when we went to a fancy dress ball
given by Dr. and Mrs. Wilde in Queen's Man-
sions. The dresses were very grotesque and
curious. The classical dresses looked the best.
96
Journal of the
Besides the classical quadrille we saw a sing-
ing quadrille which was gay and entertaining.
But with all that I cannot very well see the
utility of fancy dress balls. I am at a loss
to understand why so much time, money, and
ingenuity should be wasted on the sartorial art
for the sake of the ephemeral delight of an
evening. I certainly would not prohibit luxury
to those who have the means to indulge in it,
but the labour and expenditure bestowed on it
should be in proportion to the enjoyment to be
derived therefrom Luxury for its own sake is
of little good.]
13th July.
This was the first day of the Eton and Harrow
cricket match, which began at 12 o'clock in
beautiful bright weather. Eton went in first and
very quickly made 231 runs. The weather was
not so favorable in the afternoon, but Harrow
played up well, and the game now promises to
be an even one. I had a good view of the
match from a temporary stand near the tennis
court. The ground was thronged with people
in gay dresses, and even for those who do not
Chief of Gondal.
97
care about cricket, the sight was a pleasant and
amusing one. Major Hancock met several
friends and introduced me to them. We also
met one or two of our fellow-passengers whom
we had never expected to see again. The world
is but a small place after all.
14th July.
In the morning I went again to the chiropo-
dist to have my foot seen to, and I think it is
now entirely cured. We afterwards went to see
the continuation of the Eton and Harrow Cricket
Match. The game was spoilt by two thunder-
storms, and therefore decided in favour of Eton
by the first innings. In the evening we went to
see the 'Rivals' at the Vaudeville Theatre.
It is an old play of Sheridan's, and is very
clever and amusing. Mrs. Sterling played Mrs.
Malaprop, and her misapplications of terms
were most entertaining. Mr. William Farren
took the part of Sir Anthony Absolute, as the
imperious parent, and his outbursts of temper
and his by-play generally were very good. Miss
Emery, who took the part of Lydia Languish,
was very pretty and was much applauded. Such
12
98
Journal of the
lady-actresses lend a great charm to the stage
and attract a large house. But I doubt very
much whether the system is a wholesome one.
The members of the two sexes playing together
with all the license and liberty which a stage is
capable of giving, will not find favour with most
of my conservative countrymen.
15th July, Sunday.
We went down as usual to spend the afternoon
at Richmond. There was a thunderstorm at about
3 o'clock, which cleared the air and rendered the
view more beautiful than usual. It turned cold
in the evening, but that seems to suit me, and
I enjoy it. Of all places in England, I think
Richmond is one of the pleasantest to live in. It
combines the attraction of town and country.
16th July.
We drove into London in the morning, calling
at Sir Henry Thompson's and the Grosvenor
Gallery Library upon our way to the Northbrook
Club. The Club is small in comparison with
most of the other clubs in London, and contains
very few rooms. In course of time, perhaps,
they will build a more commodious building for
Chief of Gondal.
99
the Club elsewhere. We afterwards visited the
National Gallery and the Thames Tunnel. I
admired Landseer's pictures of animals very
much. Most of the other pictures were very
ancient. As paintings they were good, but
the subjects were not very interesting to me.
The Thames Tunnel is uninteresting, except as
a curiosity. It consists of two parallel arched
passages of masonry. It is 1,200 ft. long and
very narrow.
It is said to have cost about half
a crore of Rupees! It is now traversed by a
railway! All the strects in its vicinity are very
narrow, dirty and unpleasant, and present a great
contrast to the West End of London, where
we live. I was labouring under the impression
that of all cities in the world London, the
metropolis of the vast English Empire, must not
only be a charming place to live in, but that
its lanes and by-lanes must be entirely free
from filth. The results of my personal observ-
ation, however, have been disappointing.
17th July.
We walked down Oxford Street in the morn-
ing to see about my photographic album, and to
100
Journal of the
make a few purchases. In the afternoon we
drove to Wimbledon to see the Rifle Shooting
for the Queen's Prize and to meet the Duke
and Duchess of Connaught at a Garden Party
given by Sir Bartle and Lady Frere. It rained
a little but cleared up sufficiently to enable us to
go into the garden, where we met many of our
friends. In the evening we went to see the
'Merchant of Venice,' at the Lyceum Theatre.
The play was beautifully placed upon the
stage, and surpassed all my expectations.
Not only did Mr. Henry Irving and Miss Ellen
Terry act splendidly, but the other actors
too surpassed themselves. I was,
I was, however,
not a little amused to see Shylock wearing his
"jumbia" on the left side instead of on the
right. Such a mistake would be considered
in India to be an ugly one. The hilt is always
kept on the left. Should it be worn other-
wise it would be considered among Eastern
people that the wearer of the weapon was unac-
quainted with the use of it. The scenery was
magnificent. In the closing scene (the ring
scene), where the moonlight changed into the
Chief of Gondal.
101
dawn of day, nothing was wanting to render it
natural and artistic.
18th July.
We left for Edinburgh by the 10 o'clock
express from King's Cross, getting there about
7 P.M. We were very kindly received by Mr.
and Mrs. Nutt, who drove with us to their pretty
mansion called the Grange House, in the Lord
Provost's carriage. Our journey to Edinburgh
was a pleasant one, especially when we entered
the precincts of Scotland. The scenery is better
than that of the North of England, and the
change is very agreeable indeed. We touched
York on the way; the scenery around it was
exquisitely fine.
19th July.
Immediately after breakfast we visited the
Royal Infirmary. It is the first institution of
the kind that I have visited, and I was much
struck with the efficiency of the arrangements.
Everything is kept scrupulously clean, from the
wards to the kitchens, which we also visited. It
must be no easy task to administer so complete
a system throughout such an immense establish-
102
Journal of the
ment.
There are
There are no less than 700 inmates.
for whom food and clothing and every other
necessary has to be provided. Upwards of 80
doctors attend the Infirmary, and a regular staff
of trained nurses attend upon the sick. There
are several lady superintendents who teach and
control the nurses and see that all their duties
are properly performed. The cost of such an
institution is, of course, enormous, and there are
still a few wards empty for want of funds. After
luncheon we attended an Exhibition at the Royal
High School in company with the Lord Provost
of Edinburgh. Some of the recitations were
very good. All the speeches-and especially
those made by the Headmaster and the Lord
Provost-were excellent. We afterwards visited
the Cathedral of St. Giles, which has been lately
restored. It is not so beautiful as some of the
chapels at Cambridge, but the Scotch people are
very proud of it. We next visited Merchiston
School. The Headmaster kindly showed us
over the house, and pointed out a room where
Queen Mary is once said to have slept. We
then adjourned to the cricket field, where a
Chief of Gondal.
103
match was going on. The scene from there
over the Pentland hills was very beautiful, and
we thus finished a very agreeable day.
20th July.
We drove to the Ladies' College in George
Square, soon after breakfast, in order to hear
a rehearsel of the Annual Musical Exhibition.
Eight girls first of all played a piece on eight
pianos in capital time. Sixteen girls then played
another piece which was still more spirited.
This was followed by a triumphal march from
the Oratorio Naaman,' which was sung by
upwards of six hundred girls at once and was
excellently rendered. Both the words and the
music were martial and soul-stirring and delight-
ed me exceedingly. The concert concluded
with two Scotch songs which I was less able to
follow or r understand. We then went to the
Edinburgh University. Sir Alexander Grant
kindly showed us over the whole building and also
over the Medical Schools, where we saw all
the interesting appliances for the teaching of
medical science. This collection is better than
the one we saw at Oxford. We also visited the

104
Journal of the
dissecting room and watched the students.
actually at work upon different parts of the human
body, investigating the action and causes of all
sorts of diseases. All the Professors were most
civil and obliging. They left the important
work on which they were engaged to escort me
round the different apartments, and explained
to me the various objects of interest. The most
interesting thing I saw was a respirating machine
for keeping up artificial respiration in subjects.
under experiment. It breathed exactly like a
living, or, I may say, a dying person, the long
and short respirations and exhalations being
marvellously regulated. I afterwards saw wax
models of all parts of the human frame, and
artificial eyes furnished with lenses to show the
effects of light upon the retina. Indeed, we saw
too many ingenious arrangements for convey-
ing instruction to the minds of medical students
for me to enumerate them here. 'I have a taste
that way, and should much like to become a
medical student myself. In the afternoon we
went with the Lord Provost to see the present-
ation of prizes at the Blind Asylum. The blind


Chief of Gondal.
105
are taught to read and write by means of a code
something like the telegraphic alphabet punched
out on thick paper, by the feel of which they
recognise letters. One blind boy read out, with
great case and fluency, an essay which had been
written by another boy. The blind children
also played upon various musical instruments
and sang rather well. They are also taught to
work and to do many useful things. I am told
that the patience and kindness with which they
are treated and the good food which they get
have so improved the health of some of them that
it has actually restored their sight. It is a most
interesting and excellent institution, and I think
it would be a good thing if there were some-
thing like it in India, where blindness is still more
common than in Europe. This could be done
with a small outlay of money by attaching Blind
Asylums to the Pinjrapoles and similar institu-
tions maintained by the charitably disposed
Mahajans of the country. The Government
and the Native States should also come forward
to do their utmost in this direction. We then
adjourned to a garden party at Grange House,
13
106
Journal of the
which was enlivened by recitations and music
by the girls of the school. We also played
lawn tennis until the rain drove us indoors.
again. In the evening we played games and
amused ourselves pleasantly until a late hour.
21st July.
The morning was very cold and wet, but
this did not interfere much with our visit to
Holyrood Palace, which we found very interest-
ing. We were not only shown all the old apart-
ments, which we found interesting, and where so
many tragical events took place connected with
Scottish history, but we visited the present State
apartments and saw all the curious old pictures.
The tapestry is wonderfully worked, and some of
it is very ornamental. The views from the
windows are very pretty, although so much spoilt
to our view by the rain. Mr. Duncan Ander-
son, the keeper of the Chapel Royal, kindly gave
me a history of the place and a few photographs
of the same. We then drove to the Castle,
where we saw the Regalia and other crown.
jewels of Scotland. The Castle commands a
fine view of the whole of Edinburgh and the
Chief of Gondal.
107
i+
Firth of Forth, where we saw the Reserve
Squadron in the distance. We were shown a
small room which Mary Queen of Scots in-
habited. This is the fourth room in Edinburgh
which has been pointed out to us as belong-
ing to her, and I cannot say that I admire her
choice of bedrooms! To the people of Scotland,
to whom these reminiscences are naturally very
dear, all these places possess an interest not
shared in by an ordinary traveller. But I for
one can very well understand their feelings,
which work in the heart of every man who has
a passionate liking for the antiquities of his
country. The Castle itself is well worth seeing.
The drive through Old and New Edinburgh was.
also interesting. The new town and the old
town are separated by a valley called North
Loch, and united by a bridge. There is a striking
contrast between the two. I was as much
struck by the plainness of the ancient buildings
as by the beauty of the new. Edinburgh is full
of churches, whose spires make every part of it
look picturesque. In the afternoon we attended
a meeting in the Town Hall assembled in order
108
Journal of the
to present the Freedom of the City to Lord
Rosebury. Both he and the Lord Provost made
excellent speeches. The former spoke with
much humour at times. The audience were
evidently much pleased with all he said, and he
is undoubtedly a most able and popular noble-
man. We were the guests of Mr. Harrison, the
Lord Provost, at a dinner in honour of Lord
Rosebury at the Liberal Club in the evening.
Short and humorous speeches were made after-
wards, and we then went to the Waverly Market,
where a military band was playing, to watch the
people promenading. It is the largest place I
have yet seen devoted to such a purpose, and
it was quite full of people of all sorts.
22nd July,
We got up to an early breakfast and left
Grange House at 8 o'clock in order to catch
the early train to Glasgow. Our stay at Edin-
burgh, the "Modern Athens" as some choose
to call it, has certainly given us a good idea of
Scotch kindness and hospitality. From the
time we came to the time we left we were the
constant care of somebody or other who at-
Chief of Gondal.
109
I
tended to our wants. Mr. and Mrs. Nutt took
only too much trouble to entertain us, and the
civility and kindness of Mr. Harrison, the Lord
Provost, was most gratifying. These kind
people have rendered my sojourn in Edinburgh
extremely happy and comfortable. I cannot
sufficiently thank them. I only wish that it
was in some way possible for me to return
their kindness. We reached the St. Enoch
Hotel at Glasgow at about 11 o'clock. This is
a splendid hotel, replete with every convenience.
After luncheon we walked to the West End Park,
where we spent the afternoon watching the
people and admiring the views. The University
stands out in a most commanding way upon a
hill overlooking the valley of the Kelvin river,
and many churches and other public buildings
ornament the vicinity. We could trace the
windings of the Clyde by the masts of the
shipping through the town. We walked back
by another route, and thus saw a good deal of
the city.
23rd July.
The Lord Provost kindly deputed Mr. Nicol,
110
Journal of the
the City Chamberlain, to show us over Glasgow.
We first of all visited the ship-building yards of
John Elder & Co. We saw five large ships upon
the stocks in different stages of completion, and
afterwards visited the new steamer called the
Oregon, which is being built by them for the
Guion Line Company, one of the great American
lines of steamers. It is a magnificent ship, hav-
ing a main deck on the top of everything, like a
roof over the whole of it. We afterwards saw
its engines-monsters of enormous power, calcu-
lated to send her through the water at the rate
of 24 knots an hour.
knots an hour. We afterwards went
round all the workshops, and saw how every
portion of a ship is made. Everything here is on
such an enormous scale that we were not sur-
prised to hear that upwards of 6,000 workmen
are employed there every day. On our way
back we visited the ill-fated Daphne, in which
so many unfortunate people lately perished.
She is an insignificant looking steamer, not a
quarter of the size of those we had just seen,
and it is sad to think how many lives have been
unnecessarily lost in her. Grim death overtakes
Chief of Gondal.
111
all anywhere-whether on sea or land. In spite
of all human ingenuity to guard against danger,
there is no escape when the mournful hour comes.
After luncheon we visited the City Glass Works.
The proprietor, Mr. James Cooper, took us
round and most civilly explained everything,
from the time the glass is first made in the fur-
nace to the time it is perfected in every shape
and colour. The various processes of clouding
it, which is done by sand under a high pressure
in a vacuum; of engraving it, which is done by
artists with revolving instruments; of etching
it, which is done by other artists who trace the
patterns through a coating of wax before the
glass is submitted to the action of certain acids;
of cutting it, which is done by means of grinding
stones of various degrees of hardness; of
colouring it, which is done by mixture of
chemicals in the furnace; and of blowing it and
shaping it, were all most interesting. Mr. Cooper
allowed us to blow some glass ourselves, and
promised to make a couple of goblets for us
upon which my crest is to be engraved. I was
altogether highly pleased with this manufac-
112
Journal of the
tory, and I saw many beautiful things there.
which I should like afterwards to buy. I very
much admired the etching process by means of
which beautiful patterns of engraving are done
on glass. In the first place the glass is covered
with a thin coating of beeswax, upon which the
design is drawn with a needle. Then fluor-spar
powder is sprinkled upon it, and the glass is
subjected to the action of sulphuric acid, which
is poured upon it. After a few hours the wax
is cleared off by means of some solution, which
brings out the design on the ground very plainly.
We afterwards visited a neighbouring china
manufactory, but we were told by the proprietor
that the work was stopped for the day. We
hereafter propose to visit Sèvres manufactory
near Paris, where we shall see similar works on a
greater and better scale. We drove home past
the Cathedral and the Necropolis, and thus
saw all we could of Glasgow in one day. It
appeared to me to be a very populous and weal-
thy town, surpassing many others in commerce
and manufactories. But withal I did not like it
so much as Edinburgh, which Nature and Art
Chief of Gondal.
113
have combined to make as charming as pos-
sible. One is a town of quiet and learning; the
other is a town of bustle and activity. It is,
of course, rather presumptuous to give an
off-hand opinion on towns which I could only
see with the rapidity of a shooting star. But
I simply note the impressions I have carried
with me. A long stay is required before one
can be in a position to give a tolerably correct
opinion about a place.
24th July.
We started by an early train from Glasgow
for Balloch, whence we took steamer for Inver-
snaid at the head of Loch Lomond. This is a
very beautiful lake, and is said to be the largest
in Great Britain. There is a peculiar mixture
of grandeur and beauty about it. Its waters are
as clear as a mirror, and it is bespangled with
numerous lovely islets. The magnificence of
the place is very much enhanced by the hills
that stand all round in pleasing boldness as the
guardians of its beauty. From Inversnaid wer
went by coach to Loch Katrine, the scene of
Scott's " Lady of the Lake," thence by
14
114
Journal of the
steamer to the Trossachs, and through the
Trossachs by coach to Callander. The whole
of this journey was performed through the
most beautiful scenery I have ever yet
seen. It has all been pourtrayed so graphi-
cally by Sir Walter Scott, whose writings.
are so familiar to everybody, that I will not
attempt to describe it in feebler language
of my own. The part of Loch Katrine near
the Trossachs and the head of Loch Lomond
near Inversnaid were the portions I admired
the most. The morning was dull,
dull, but
the afternoon was bright and fine, and gave
us a splendid view of the lakes between the
Trossachs and Callander. At Callander we
walked out to see Bracklinn Falls. They, too,
are beautiful beyond description, and instead
of spending three days only amongst such
scenes, I quite wish that I could stay here
for three months, or even for three years if it
were possible. I wish we had stayed less in
London, so that we could have spared more time
for places like these.
Chief of Gondal.
115
25th July.
It was a lovely morning, so we went out for an
early walk before starting for Loch Tay. We
ascended the heights behind the town, from
whence we had a fine view of the surrounding
country. The pathway up the hill lay through
delicious woods of pines and Scotch firs and
mountain beeches and graceful undergrowths.
At the summit we emerged upon a moor, and
the descent upon the other side was rather a
rough one through the ferns and heather, but we
enjoyed it none the less for that. I do not
wonder that the Highland people have such a
love for their country. It is certainly one of
the most lovely countries in the world. Soon
after 1 o'clock we started in the train for
Killin to Kenmore by steamer.
It is very
beautiful but not so picturesque as Loch
Lomond or Loch Katrine to my mind. From
Kenmore we drove to Aberfeldy through most
beautiful park lands along the borders of the
Tay. From Aberfeldy we took train again to Pit-
lochry, where I found a double mail of letters
awaiting me from India, with good news from all.
116
Journal of the
26th July.
I stayed in to write letters all the morning.
In the afternoon we drove through Mr. Butler's
beautiful grounds at Faskelly to the Killiecran-
kie Pass. Mr. Butler received us at the door
of his mansion in the Scottish fashion, and
made us drink "good luck" when leaving in
some sort of compound of his own. The Kil-
liecrankie Pass is well worth coming all this way
to see. The view of it from the bridge, as well
as from the "Soldier's Leap" and the "Queen's
Seat" are quite enchanting. The more I see
of Scotland the more beautiful it seems to me.
The water of the river and all the lochs we have
come through is of a deep brown colour, derived.
from the peat soil of the mountains in which the
heather grows, but it looks none the less beauti-
ful for that, and the contrast of its white foam
is all the greater amongst the rapids and the
waterfalls. We afterwards drove to Blair Athol,
but the scenery beyond seemed tame after the
Pass of Killiecrankie. We drove back to Pit-
lochry to dinner and left afterwards for Glasgow,
where we slept. I carry with me the liveliest
Chief of Gondal.
117
impressions of all I have seen and experienced
in the country. Scotland is a very beautiful
country, pleasanter to live in than England.
The mountain lakes, which are extremely pic-
turesque, are its chief attractions. Nature seems
to have showered her charms upon it very pro-
fusely. The people are remarkably hospitable,
and in some respects I have noted close simila-
rity between certain Scottish peculiarities and
those of my countrymen in general, and of the
old chivalrous Rajputs in particular. They are
passionately attached to their family associa-
tions. Like most of my countrymen they love
to talk of the glorious past with great warmth
and enthusiasm, rather than of the living present
or the distant future. The people appeared to
me to be very simple in their habits and re-
markably open-hearted. If I were to compare
Scotland with England from the superficial
knowledge I have acquired of both the coun-
tries, I might say that Scotland is a place for
learning and quiet pursuits of life; and Eng-
land a place of restless activity and commercial
enterprise. One may be likened to the rising M
118
Journal of the
billows of the sea, the other to the calm.
unruffled waters of the lake.
27th July.
We arrived at Leeds about 4 o'clock in the
afternoon. The Rev. Mr. Smith, a friend of
Major Hancock, met us there, and kindly
escorted us to a cloth manufactory. The
owner, Mr. Stalles, very civilly showed us
over the whole factory himself, and explained
all the processes to us from the cleaning
of the raw wool to the completion of the
finest cloth. The wool is generally first
dyed the necessary colour and soaked in oil;
it is then thrown into a machine called the
"Devil," which tears it into little shreds. These
are then taken into another room where they are
"carded" and "condensed" in very ingenious
machines which eventually turn them out in
threads. These threads are then spun into finer
ones. Threads of different colours are subse-
quently twisted together in machines according
to the texture of the cloth required. The
threads are then transferred to looms where they
are dexterously woven into various patterns.
Chief of Gondal.
119
The principle of all weaving is the same and
need not be described, but many interesting
devices to vary the patterns have been invented.
After the cloth is made it has to be subjected
to the action of ammonia and other chemicals to
extract the oil from it. It is also washed and
shrunk, and subsequently steamed before it is
finally issued from the mill. Most of the wool
used comes from Australia and America, where
the staple is much finer and cheaper than
in England. Most of the machinery is looked
after by factory girls. Nothing seems to be
wanting in any of these manufactories to bring
the thing required to perfection; and it is the
completeness of arrangement which renders all
English work so well finished.
28th July.
We started at 9 o'clock to visit Messrs.
Greenwood and Battey's manufactory where
they make machinery. In describing machinery
which makes machinery, it must be understood
that each part of it is made separately, and
indeed some of the most intricate machinery
is used for making the simplest details, such as
120
Journal of the
screws and other small articles which are requir-
ed in great numbers. The machine for making
screws was the most interesting of all. It was
automatic, and worked out a given length of iron
without being touched by anybody. There are
many other automatic machines which com-
plete a given task and then ring a bell to show
that it is done, so that in fact they do every-
thing but speak. Amongst the many things we
saw manufactured were Nordenfelt guns and
all the machinery for making their ammunition,
electrical machines, screwing machines, spin-
ning machines, and a wonderful machine for tying
knots in warps under preparation for the looms.
We also saw numberless machines for hammer-
ing and sawing and cutting iron into various
shapes. They treat iron exactly as if it were
butter or cheese, so easily is it manipulated by
the powerful machinery. I recognized much of
the machinery which I had seen at Woolwich.
In the afternoon we went by train to Ilkley, and
ascended the highlands there, where the air was
deliciously cool and fresh. They are covered with
fern and heather like the moors of Scotland, and
Chief of Gondal.
121
they were full of people from the neighbouring
towns, who were gathering billberries and cran-
berries, which grew on small bushes all over the
place. It was a very easy and pleasant little
excursion, and I enjoyed it very much. I must
not forget to mention that we passed the even-
ing with Mr. Smith at the Leeds Club, and that
he accompanied us everywhere. It is surprising
to see how kind people are to me and how much
trouble they take on my behalf. Major Han-
cock seems to raise up friends everywhere,
without whom we should not have seen half so
much or so agreeably.
29th July, Sunday.
We came across country to Liverpool, chang-
ing carriages no less than three times. Leeds
appeared to me to be a very big town. It is
chiefly noted for the manufacture of woollen cloth.
Raw wool is imported in great quantity from
India as well as from other countries. It would
be well if some enterprising companies in India
would start such manufactorics at convenient
localities in India itself. Fancy the expenses
entailed in the transportation of the raw ma-
15
122
Journal of the
terial from India and back in an altered form.
All these might be saved if the material could
be worked upon in the producing country,
where labour is very cheap. In my opinion
capitalists in India cannot invest their money
in a better way. To ensure success the under-
taking will, for some time, stand in need of
extraneous help. Until Indian fabrics become
able to compete fairly with their foreign
rivals, Government should, I think, put some
prohibitive duties on foreign imports. These
can be removed as soon as the Indian in-
dustries are in a fit condition to enter the list
of competition with similar industries of other
countries. I am not an out-and-out protection-
ist, but I am certainly of opinion that the
introduction of a free trade policy in India, at a
time when her glorious industries are helplessly
swept away by the gushing torrents of foreign
goods produced in more favoured circumstances,
is not fair. I doubt very much if England
could have risen to be the greatest commercial
country in the world if she had followed the free
trade system from the beginning, and not had
Chief of Gondal.
123
recourse to heavy protective duties on foreign
goods a century back. To protect the indus-
tries of a country, though only temporarily, is to
give time to a feeble country to recruit her
strength and to develope her internal resources.
When that is done a free trade policy might be
adopted with advantage.
30th July.
We visited the Walker Art Gallery, the Free
Library, the Derby Museum, Police and Central
Fire Station, Town Hall, Exchange News Room,
and called upon the Mayor of Liverpool in the
forenoon. Of the pictures in the Walker Art
Library I admired one, called 'Faithful unto
Death,' exceedingly. It represents a sentry
standing at his post beset with fire. I admired
the picture but did not admire the wisdom of
the sentry, who burnt himself to death though
he could have saved himself, or would have per-
formed his duty better by trying to put out the
fire. I also admired the picture of the Death of
Nelson, which is painted very cleverly. The
Museum is not so attractive as the one at
Oxford. It is on a smaller scale, so we could go
124
Journal of the
through all classes of things quickly. The Free
Library contains a fine circular reading room,
besides a large reading room, where the papers.
are free to the public generally. It was full of
people, who seemed thoroughly to appreciate
this mode of education. We then went to the
Police and Central Fire Station, where Captain
Bower kindly put his men through their exer-
cises to show us how water is pumped on to
the tops of burning houses both by hand pumps
and steam pumps. The steam firc-engine sent
a jet of water strong enough to knock down a
man. Some of the firemen climbed on to the
roofs of the houses and worked the jets from
there. They also ran up ladders to windows
and dragged out two men and two boys and
let them down in a sack just as they would at a
real fire. Indeed they did everything except
burn a house down to oblige us! We visited
the Police cells and offices, and then drove to
the Town Hall. The Lord Mayor himself kindly
showed us over the apartments. The ball room
and the reception room are finer than any rooms
I have yet seen, except at Buckingham and
Chief of Gondal.
125
St. James's Palaces. From the Town Hall we
walked round to see the Exchange News Room,
a fine hall full of very busy people. In the after-
noon we went to see the docks and warehouses-
Prince's Dock in Bombay is nothing to them-
they are so very capacious. There are upwards
of a hundred docks here as big as the one at
Bombay. We lastly visited the lighthouse.
The lamp is surrounded by a huge system of
prisms which concentrate the rays in the pro-
per direction.
31st July.
We attended the Court of Assizes at St.
George's Hall at 11 o'clock to hear Sir James
FitzJames Stephen charge the Grand Jury
regarding the prisoners connected in the late
dynamite conspiracies. He expounded the
offences of treason-felony, of attempted mur-
der, and other counts on which they were
accused, very clearly. He also charged
the jury regarding some other cases, and we
heard two cases tried before we left the
court. Some of the preliminaries of the trial
appeared to me to be cumbrous and unneces-
120
Journal of the
L.
sary, although I am told that it is thought well
thus to vindicate the majesty of the law; but in
India, I think, the simple execution of justice
is found sufficient to effect that without the
blowing of trumpets and the reading of Royal
proclamations. Trial by jury appears to be a
popular mode of administering justice in this
country. I should like to see the system more
extensively adopted in India. It is a well-known
fact that my countrymen are divided and sub-
divided into numberless castes. These castes
might be utilized as auxiliaries in deciding civil
cases at least. Generally speaking every caste
has a council of five head-men with a patel or
president, to check all sorts of irregularities
among the members of the community. The
office of the president is in some cases heredi-
tary and in others elective. In former time his
power was great, but now only the traces of that
are discernible. If a new lease of power were
granted to the different castes in conformity
with the altered state of circumstances, if the
councils elected by the members of different
castes were recognised by the Government, and
Chief of Gondal.
127
if these councils were authorized to try certain
civil and criminal cases, then, I think, the work
of administering justice would be greatly facili-
tated, litigation would be very much reduced,
and the dispensation of justice would be cheap
and speedy. The power would only be exercis-
ed when both the parties belonged to the same
caste. Should the parties belong to different
castes, then the old indigenous system of pun-
chayet or arbitration might be profitably made
use of. This would be a great step towards the
much-talked-of local self-government. In my
opinion every encouragement should be given to
reviving this old method of trying cases. St.
George's Hall is a fine building, and all the
arrangements of the Court were very convenient
and complete. In the evening we left by a fast
train for London, getting there very comfortably
in about five hours. Liverpool seems to be a
very great commercial town, carrying on trade.
with almost all parts of the world.
1st August.
We walked up Oxford Street in the morning
to see the photographic albums of my travels.
b
128
Journal of the
These now consist of several volumes, which
hereafter it will be a great pleasure to look over.
We then went to Window and Grove, the photo-
graphers, to arrange about having my picture
taken. In the afternoon we drove to see the
Victoria Park. It is handsomely laid out with
flower beds, but the trees are not so hand-
some as those in the other parks in London.
It was very full of children of the poorer classes,
and doubtless forms a happy retreat for them
from the London streets. In the middle of the
park stands a fountain, and in the surrounding
space there are places for recreation and phy-
sical exercise.
2nd August.
In the morning I went to have my picture
taken. They took me about a dozen times, so
it ought to be a good one. In the afternoon
I went to see the new law Courts, accompanied
by Mr. Hume, Barrister-at-law, who took great
trouble to show me everything. The building
appeared to me to be rather intricate-appro-
priately so, perhaps, to be in keeping with the
mazes of the law! It is a good hint to those
Chief of Gondal.
129
who are too litigiously inclined! It is easy to
enter it but to come out safe and successful
is both doubtful and difficult. I think the fault
lies not so much with the people as with the
procedure, which is tardy, and often drags a
weary length of time. Human laws, however
minutely and elaborately drawn up, will always
be imperfect. They should be the means of
giving not mere justice, but justice in the
simplest way possible. This can be done, I
suppose, by leaving a good deal to the wise
discretion of the judges, who should be men
of tried honesty and integrity, and well worthy
of confidence.
3rd August.
We went out shopping in the morning, and at
Clark's, the silversmith in Bond Street, I chose
several nice presents for my friends. I after-
wards went to Truefitt's to be shampooed, which
was very pleasant and refreshing. In the after-
noon we drove to see the Home for Lost Dogs.
It was in shamefully bad order. The arrange-
ments were not so good as I expected, and
I thought that most of the dogs looked very
16
130
Journal of the
miserable. It is, I understand, a charitable in-
stitution only, but I think an establishment of
that kind ought to be better helped and super-
vised. Dogs are much better attended to at
shows and other places, where there is some
profit to be made from them, and this does not
speak well for the managers of this institution.
Some of the dogs confined here are really very
handsome and high-bred. But they lose their
virtue and beauty in no time under the shabby
treatment they receive here. Dogs could be had
very cheap at this place, but it is not often
advisable to purchase, for one is not quite sure
whether the animal he purchases is free from
disease, such as hydrophobia, &c., the symp-
toms whereof do not show themselves for a
considerable time. In the evening we went to
see the Edsin Troupe at the Avenue Theatre.
They were very absurd, and kept us in great
merriment all the evening.
4th August.
We went out in the morning to see the dog-
fancier who is arranging about the purchase of
the dogs I want. I am very fond of dogs,
Chief of Gondal.
131
for of all animals the dog is the best companion L
of man.
He is an emblem of sagacity and fide-
lity. His attachment to man is proverbial. In
India he is invaluable to the shepherd, who
employs him in guarding the flocks from the
depredations of carnivorous beasts, such as
wolves, panthers, &c. In most cases a couple
of such dogs, or sometimes even a single one, is
more than a match for any one of the ferocious
beasts. If properly trained, a good dog, if he
cannot save his master's life, will sacrifice
his own life with him. He is ever ready to
share our labours and dangers, and is every
way a very faithful creature. It is a great pity
that he is much neglected in India, where
his services were once appreciated even by
the gods of Hindu mythology! I hope, in the
course of time, he will receive from the people
the attention he is entitled to.
For the present
he is in an untrained state, and lives upon crusts
thrown to him by every merciful householder
We drove out to Wimbledon afterwards to play
lawn-tennis, and passed a very pleasant even-
ing there.
132
Fournal of the
5th August, Sunday.
We drove down to Richmond in the after-
noon with the servants and all our baggage in
an omnibus, which is a very pleasant mode of
changing quarters. We went for a walk along
the banks of the river in the evening, and watch-
ed the people boating and enjoying themselves.
Although London is the largest and the richest
city in the world, and a place of attraction for
all tourists, our stay in it was sufficiently long to
require some change. The human mind is
never satisfied with one thing. Being restless,
it is anxious to crave for something else. That,
so soon as it has been got, often loses its charm.
It is truly said that-
"The virtue lies
In the struggle, not in the prize."
We are eager to have a thing, thinking that
the possession thereof will give us intense de-
light. We get it and feel satisfied for the
moment. But the pleasure does not uniformly
continue; it lessens gradually.
6th August.
To-day is a Bank Holiday, which means a
Chief of Gondal.
133
public holiday given by order of Government,
and the streets are full of people bent on enjoy-
ing themselves. We sent the servants out into
the park to see a performance by Blondin, the
well-known funambulist, and a balloon ascent,
whilst we ourselves drove over to Wimbledon to
play lawn-tennis. It was a lovely afternoon.
We met Col. LaTouche and his children there.
and had many jolly games. I must not forget
to note here that there is some difference be-
tween a holiday-making in England and a
holiday-making in India. In England a holiday
is looked forward to as a day of amusement and
exemption from work. In India it is almost
invariably a holy day consecrated to some god
or goddess, as well as a day of joy and gaiety.
The one looks rather stiff and formal, the other
more solemn and sincere.
7th August.
We went for a ride in the morning all round
Richmond Park, skirting the boundaries so as to
see the full extent of it. It is all
It is all very beautiful,
but I admired the Kingston side the most, where
the bracken and other undergrowth are very
j
134
Journal of the
high. We saw numbers of deer playing about
in it. The turf is very springy to ride upon, and
the horses were eager to go their best. It is so
long since I have been out riding that it is quite
a pleasure to me to find myself on horseback
again. In the afternoon we went out on the
river, and I practised rowing, of which I hope to
learn something. We were towed part of the
way against the tide by a small steamer belong-
ing to a gentleman who had been in India, and
who talked Hindustani to me. It was cool and
pleasant on the river.
8th August.
I received a large batch of Indian letters by
the early post, and occupied myself in answer-
ing them all the morning. In the afternoon I
went with one of Major Hancock's sons to have
a bicycle lesson. I got on pretty well, and I
hope soon to be able to ride one by myself.
The evening was wet and cold, so I stayed in to
finish my letters. It is always a source of great
comfort to receive letters from friends and re-
lations living thousands of miles off. Thanks
to the excellent postal arrangements, we get
Chief of Gondal.
135
their kind and affectionate messages within
twenty days. While reading them we feel as if
we are in the presence of the writers. We can
form pictures as to how things are going on in
the distant home. One's imagination never
works so well as at such a time. If the news
is not of an uneasy nature, so far good; if
otherwise we must remain on the tenterhooks of
expectation and anxiety until the next mail
arrives. Such being the case, I can very well
understand the great anxiety displayed by
Englishmen in India when the English mail
comes late even by a single day.
9th August.
I went out for a ride again in the Park in the
morning and enjoyed it very much. In the
afternoon I went for a drive with old Mrs. Han-
cock. We drove round by Wimbledon home
by Kingston, which is a very pretty drive. In
the evening I drove to London to be present at
the dinner given to Sir Auckland Colvin, the
newly-elected Finance Member in the Viceroy's
Council, at the Northbrook Club. Speeches were
made by Lord Northbrook and Sir Auckland
136
Journal of the
Colvin, which were very interesting. A great
many of my friends and acquaintances were
there, and I enjoyed the evening very much,
The practice of giving post-prandial speeches
is as interesting as it is curious. After a good
dinner one would be naturally inclined to talk
merrily about light matters, rather than to
dwell at length upon serious political topics.
Speakers, on such occasions, have to be very
careful in their utterances, which are taken down
word for word by the quick-eared and quick-
fingered reporters of the press. But with prac-
tice the task, I believe, cannot be very difficult.
I have noticed at some Brahmanical dinner par-
ties, that at the close of their dinner, the learn-
ed gentlemen vie with one another in reciting
verses from various Sanskrit authors. This
good custom goes a great way in cultivating
the memory and the taste for letters. It would
be well if we could, by a similar practice, do
more to encourage the art of elocution.
10th August.
I gave a small picnic at Weybridge by way
of returning the kindnesses of some few of my
Chief of Gondal.
137
friends. We drove to Weybridge in an omnibus
and had luncheon amongst the heather and
under the trees at St. George's Hill. We played
afterwards and romped amongst the ferns, which
was great fun. All the children seemed to
enjoy it thoroughly, and we passed a very merry
day. The weather was delightful, and the drive
there and back was almost the pleasantest part
of the excursion. It is surprising to see how
much beautiful country there is within easy reach
of London. Some parts of this beautiful park
towards the east of the Swiss Cottage reminded
me of Scotland and the moors. No better
place could possibly be selected for a picnic.
11th August.
We played lawn-tennis all the morning with
General Ruper's children in a nice garden be-
longing to a Mr. Graham near the hotel. In
the afternoon we played again at Wimbledon, so
we are having quite a holiday time of it down
here. Such out-door games are often a very
great diversion to the mind. It is a fact of
every-day experience that our mind is seldom at
rest. It is always in search of some congenial v
17
138
Journal of the
food for itself. And when it does not find that
it begins to prey upon itself. To engage it in
such harmless sports now and then is not a bad
way of keeping it employed. They serve
a double purpose. They prevent the mind from
being directed towards evil pursuits, and at the
same time contribute vastly to the improvement
of the body and the mind itself.
12th August, Sunday.
***
Another bright warm day. I went for a walk
in the morning with one of Major Hancock's
sons, while he went to church. We walked
through Petersham to the river and back another
way. It was too hot to go very far. In the
afternoon we went out for a ride through the
park to Wimbledon Common, where there is a
fine open space for galloping. In the evening
we called upon General Ruper, and afterwards
went for a short excursion down the river, and
thus pleasantly finished a long summer day.
13th August.
We left by an early train for Portsmouth
to see the Dockyards and the ironclads.
The Admiral's Flag Lieutenant met us at the
Chief of Gondal.
139
station, and first of all conducted us over
the torpedo ship Polyphemus, which is com-
manded by a Captain May, who kindly ex-
plained the various machinery. It is a won-
derful ship, shaped like a cigar, with at least
seven-eighths of the hull under water. The
decks are also shell-proof, but she trusts more
to her speed than to anything else to protect her
from the enemy's fire. The torpedoes are fired
off under water by an electic apparatus from the
conning tower. They propel themselves through
the water by means of machinery worked by com-
pressed air inside them. The whole apparatus
is very costly, but if it succeeds in blowing up an
enemy's ship, I suppose the proportionate cost
is insignificant. The Polyphemus is divided
into upwards of a hundred watertight compart-
ments, so that it would be no easy matter to
sink her. There are two sets of engines in
different compartments, either of which is suffi-
cient to propel her at full speed if the other is
disabled. The deck is defended from boat
attacks by Nordenfelt machine guns, and alto-
gether she is a very formidable sort of craft.
140
Journal of the
must however observe that she is a very ugly-
looking ship and very uncomfortable to live in.
We next went on board the Sultan, a large
ironclad, commanded by a Captain Curfon
Howe. This is a magnificent ship, fitted up
with 18-ton guns, one of which was worked to
show us how they are fought in action. The con-
trivances for moving such enormous guns are so
ingenious that a few men can work them. The
whole of the drill was done in silence by means
of signs instead of by words of command, which
might not be heard in action. We afterwards
went round the ship, and were shown where she
was hit by the Egyptian guns during the bom-
bardment of Alexandria. Two men were killed
and a few wounded on the occasion, but the
men at the guns were comparatively safe. The
whole ship appeared very massive and striking,
and it is the best I have yet seen. With such
a fleet of ironclads it is no wonder that England
rules the seas. After passing some time with
Admiral Sir J. and Lady Hornby, we visited the
turret-ship Dreadnought, where the guns are
worked in shell-proof turrets, which revolve with
Chief of Gondal.
141
them by means of machinery. The guns are
loaded also in a most ingenious manner by
machinery, so that the men have very little
manual labour to perform in working them.
These enormous guns are so perfectly balanced
upon their trunnions, that one man only can
raise and depress the whole mass of metal by
turning a small crank. If hereafter there is
ever a naval action between England and some
other European Power, it will interest me a great
deal to hear how these enormous ships succeed.
We afterwards saw the block-making machinery,
which is ingenious and interesting. The only
imperfection I can find in it is that some of the
work that could as well be done by machinery
has to be done by hand. We also walked
round the Dockyards, and saw all sorts of ships,
including the Indian troopships, being refitted
for sea. Although not so full of merchandise,
I think these docks are more interesting than
those at Liverpool, and more magnificently
fitted out. In the evening we rowed across the
harbour to the Haslar Hospital in Gosport,
which is a fine capacious building. After din-
142
Journal of the
ner we went to the pier to hear the band play,
and thus finished a busy day.
14th August.
seen.
We went to Ryde in the morning to see a
little of the Isle of Wight. It is a very beautiful
place, and its scenery more resembles that of
Scotland than of any part of England I have
It is truly called the Garden of England.
We went for a short drive into the country,
which we admired very much. I also enjoyed
the short sea voyage there and back again.
The wind was fresh, and it was a pretty sight to
see the yachts and other ships passing up and
down the harbour. There is so much to see at
Portsmouth and in the neighbourhood that
I should like to spend some days there, but
I must wait for that until I have more leisure.
We returned to Richmond in the afternoon, and
thus completed this pleasant little excursion.
15th August.
I went to the Army and Navy Co-operative.
Stores with Major Hancock in the morning to
collect presents for my friends. I bought some
watches, bracelets, rings and some other articles.
Chief of Gondal.
143
We then went through the other departments
of the Stores, where I bought a lawn-tennis set,
some capital knives, a compendium of games,
and a stationery box, but we had not time to see
all I wanted, and we must go again. In the
afternoon I wrote letters, and the evening we
passed in the company of Mr. Conway, who came
from London. It is always a pleasure to people to
see Richmond, and so it is a nice place to invite
one's friends for a day. It is no doubt an insig-
nificant place as regards size when compared
to the metropolis. But thousands of Londoners 1
resort to it for a change. The reason of it, I
believe, is that every one is dissatisfied with his
lot, however highly he may have been placed in
society. Others may call him very fortunate,
but he is often disposed to consider himself less
happy than those who envy his enjoyments.
This shows that man is hankering after abso-
lute happiness. Whence that can be had is a
problem for the philosophers to solve.
16th August.
We went to Tattersall's stables in the morning
to see if there were any horses that I should
144
Journal of the
care to buy. Colonel LaTouche met us there
to help me to choose one, but I did not care for
any of the horses there. I saw rather a nice
basket carriage, and I should like to get a new
one like it for Bhaoobha, my little nephew.
We then again visited the Army and Navy
Stores, where I bought some nice mechanical
toys, some nice riding sticks and a barometer. In
the evening we received telegrams calling us
down to Osborne to see the Queen on the next
day. This is a great honour, and I received the
summons with great pleasure. It was the great
desire of my heart to see the Queen-Empress
who rules the hearts of all her subjects. Judging
by the light of English history that I have
read, I think no ruler of England was held in so
much respect and love as her present Sove-
reign, who is a pattern of all that is good and
noble. In India the Queen is an unknown
quantity-only known by her name and her
pictures. Yet thousands of blessings are daily
showered on her by my countrymen, whose
most admirable virtue is the loyalty and attach-
ment to the Crown that rules over them.
Chief of Gondal.
145
17th August.
We started by an early train for the Waterloo
Station, where we met Lord Kimberley, Mr.
Gerald FitzGerald, Captain Humfrey, Mr.
Warden and the Thakore Sahebs of Morvi
and Wadhwan, and travelled down with them
to Osborne. A special saloon carriage and
a special steamer were provided for our accom-
modation, so we got there very comfortably,
and were received by Sir Henry Ponsonby,
Lord Cowis, and other high officials. We
were shortly afterwards presented to Her
Majesty. The Queen was very gracious, and
asked kindly after my personal affairs. I ex-
pected to see quite a different looking person-
age from the photographs, which do not flatter
her. She has an exceedingly kind face, and is
smaller than most English ladies I have seen.
We afterwards adjourned to luncheon, which
is supposed to be equivalent to dining with
the Queen, a high honour greatly coveted by
many English noblemen. We then left again
at about 3 P. M. in the Royal carriages. I was
altogether very much gratified with the recep-
18
146
Journal of the
tion I met with, and I am sure my relations will
be greatly so to hear of it in India.
18th August.
We went to see Windsor Castle in the morn-
ing in company with Major Hancock's children.
It is a stately Palace, very beautifully situated
on the Thames, and is full of interesting relics
of great value. The rooms are very handsomely
decorated, and the views of the surrounding
country from each are so pretty that they add
greatly to the charm of them. Mr. Heather,
the officer in charge, took great trouble to show
us everything of interest. I admired the whole
Palace very much. We afterwards went to see
the Royal Stables, which are very nicely kept,
though I did not think they were better than
my own. I did not like the horses much. The
greater part of them were away at Osborne, or
on their way to Balmoral in Scotland, where the
Queen will shortly go. I was quite disappointed
with the carriages, which appeared to me to be
too heavy and old-fashioned for present use.
We afterwards drove through Windsor and Eton
to Duffield House, the country seat of a Mr.
Chief of Gondal.
147
Gilliant, where we had been kindly invited to
stay for a day or two by Mrs. Ross. It is a
lovely place. We played tennis on the lawn all
the afternoon, and sat out again in the garden
after dinner, which was very pleasant, and re-
minded one of days in India.
19th August, Sunday.
In the morning I stayed in to read a very inter-
esting little book which I found in the library.
It gave a good account of the formation of
sponges and corals and other marine animals,
which interested me greatly. In the afternoon
we went for a walk in Stoke Park, a seat of a
Mr. Colman, which is a finely wooded and very
extensive place. The country roads leading to
it are very pretty. We could see Windsor
Castle by the way, and all the neighbourhood
is very picturesque. The extreme quiet of the
country is a very pleasant change from the
bustle of our life. It was for this very reason,
I suppose, that the old sages of India used
to pass most of their time on the Himalayas,
where they composed very learned and elabo-
rate treatises on philosophy, science, art and
L
148
Journal of the
literature-works which have evoked the ad-
miration of the whole learned world, and which.
can only be appreciated by those who study
them in the prescribed manner. Such retired
places are most suited for contemplation and
composure of the mind-a bliss generally denied
to us in the midst of noise and bustle.
20th August.
We went up to London in the morning to
see my dogs, but only two of them had arrived,
and they are not exactly of the sort I want.
We afterwards went to Edmond the jeweller in
Baker Street, where I bought some bracelets
and some pretty nicknacks for my drawing
room. We then visited some carriage manu-
factories in search of a pony carriage for my
nephew, but I failed to find one to my mind.
We walked on to Cremer's toy-shop in Regent
Street, where I bought some good photographs
of public characters and a few other trifles
which I wanted. We got back in time to go
for a drive through Windsor Park. We drove
down the long walk past the equestrian statue
of George III. and home through the West
Chief of Gondal.
149
Park. We bought some photographs of Wind-
sor and Eton on our way through the town, and
finished up the evening with a game of lawn-
tennis before dinner.
21st August.
Mrs. Hancock and the children joined us
to-day, and we went for a beautiful drive through
Stoke Park to Burnham Beeches. It was a
hot day, and the deer were standing in the water
in the Park, whilst others were lying in the
shade, and looked very happy and comfortable.
The se
Gentle roe-deer, taught to trust in man,
Unstartled hear our voices.'
The country is now at its very best. The
woods we drove through were perhaps the most
beautiful in England, though not half so beau-
tiful as those of Scotland. In the afternoon we
played lawn-tennis, and returned to Richmond
together by an evening train. Our visit to
Duffield House has certainly been one of the
pleasantest in our trips thus far.
22nd August.
I went to the Richmond Swimming Baths in
150
Journal of the
the morning with Major Hancock's sons, and
amused myself by watching their performances.
We rowed up the river in the afternoon, past
Teddington Lock, where the trees and the
gardens studding the banks are very beautiful.
We passed numbers of swans, all of which, I am
told, belong to the Queen, and are said to have
a Royal mark upon their bills. They are very
graceful creatures, and are a great ornament to
the river. Here and there, on still and glassy
waters, they 'float double, swan and shadow.'
And this was a very interesting sight indeed.
As I have not seen the Himalayan swans, whose
beauty is proverbial, I cannot properly make any
comparison between them and these. It was
hard work rowing back against the tide, but
I can row a strong oar now, and I enjoyed it.
23rd August.
We went to London again to see the dogs,
and this time I was not disappointed. Indeed,
I am very much pleased with the dogs selected
for me. They are to leave England a month
hence, and I hope to find them safe in Gondal
by the time I return. They are two nice grey-
Chief of Gondal.
151
hounds and a handsome mastiff bitch and a
puppy. If only they do not suffer from heat
too much, I am sure they will always be a
great pleasure to me in India. I afterwards
completed my purchases at the jewellers and
at the Co-operative Stores, and the only things
I now want to buy are things which can follow
me at any time. In the afternoon I answered
my Indian letters, which had arrived the night
before.
24th August.
I went to have a second bicycle lesson with
Major Hancock's eldest son in the morning.
I had a good fall, but I was none the worse for
it, and I am determined to be a good rider
before long. A few falls will be no deterrent to
me. I remember to have read a remark of one
well versed in horsemanship, that one should
not hope to be a good rider until he had seventy-
seven falls. This remark may well be applied to
bicycle riding as to every new effort. A few
harmless falls go a great way in begetting con-
fidence in the rider, and so far they are helpful.
I am, however, pretty sure that I will not require
152
Journal of the
to fall seventy-seven times before I become a
good bicycle rider! And whenever I shall have
a fall I shall try to derive comfort from the
thought that a man falls to rise and rises to fall
again. We spent the afternoon on the river
again. There are so many boats upon it at
this season of the year that it is very gay and
lively. There are also a great many people
fishing and picnicking beneath the trees. The
air is cool and pleasant, and I enjoy watching
all that is going on.
25th August.
In the morning I went for a ride, which is
always a pleasure to me. The animal I rode
was a good one. But I cannot omit to notice
an amusing characteristic of it, as of all
English horses in general. On the road
the horse being fresh became rather impa-
tient and toublesome. I tried to pacify him
by the usual "booch, booch," which is fami-
liar to our Indian horses. But this made the
horse more uneasy. I continued "booching,"
and the animal continued to be more and more.
unmanageable. At last I stopped using the
Chief of Gondal.
153
choice expression, which seemed to have quite a
contrary effect on the English horses from what
it has on the equine race of India. The Eng-
lish horse is re-assured by saying "whow-ho,"
which, I am afraid, would make an Indian horse.
start furiously. Such is the power of words,
which tells even upon the beasts. Mr. and
Mrs. Fox and two of their sons came to spend
the afternoon and evening with us. They were
very kind and agreeable to me, and I like them
very much.
26th August, Sunday.
We rowed down the river to Kew Gardens
in the afternoon, and strolled about there under-
neath the trees. Numbers of other people
were enjoying themselves in the same way-
some basking in the sun, others lying about in
the shade, making the most of the summer
which was approaching its close. Indeed the
leaves are already beginning to fall from the
trees, which is a sign of the coming autumn.
This is an apt illustration for a man to take
lesson from. No state of life, whether good or
otherwise, lasts for ever. It changes in the
19
154
Journal of the
fulness of time, as the seasons succeed one
after another. Our fortune changes like the
wheel upon its axis.
its axis. The spring of infancy is
followed by the summer of youth. Then comes
the autumn of old age, to be followed by the
winter of death, that lays its cold hand on all.
27th August.
I went for a bicycle lesson in the morning,
and I think I am now almost able to run alone!
Major Lloyd came to see us in the afternoon.
He was the first officer placed in political
charge of Gondal during my minority, and was
much interested in hearing of everything con-
nected with the State. I showed him my
Gondal album, which contains pictures of many
of the buildings he designed. He stayed to
dinner, and we passed a very pleasant evening.
28th August.
We went to London in the morning to pack
up my full dress and jewelled ornaments to go
together with all my late purchases for India.
We afterwards went to Boosey's Music shop,
where I bought a nice little American har-
monium, on which I hope to learn to play. It
Chief of Gondal.
155
is a good instrument as far as it goes. But it
fails to give us those niceties of sweet sounds
which a sitar or a súrangi can alone give. We
got back to Richmond in time for a pleasant
drive to Kingston and Surbiton in the after-
noon. It was fresh and cool through the Park
and along the banks of the river, although
the weather has been rather sultry through
the day. In the evening we got our Indian
letters announcing the appointment of Colonel
West to succeed Colonel Barton as Political
Agent in Kattywar.
·
29th August.
I spent the whole of to-day with the young
Hancocks, bicycling, boating and playing bad-
minton. We had a very merry day, and I seem
to be able to stand any amount of exercise in
this climate without getting overtired. It cer-
tainly agrees with me, for I have a fine appetite,
and everybody says I look particularly well.
The climate of England now resembles very
much that of India. The heat in the day time
is great indeed. Some days are very hot. You
feel the heat more, though the thermometer
156
Journal of the
*
stands low, because the rooms in the house are
very small, and one's clothing is too thick and
warm for the change of climate. I went to
St. George's Hospital in the morning, where I
met Mr. Fayrer, one of Sir Joseph Fayrer's sons,
who kindly took me to see some operations.
performed. They were only minor operations,
but I was much interested, and I shall take every
opportunity to see some more, as I certainly
have a taste for the medical profession. I have
often wished to be a doctor in order that might
have the personal satisfaction of relieving poor
people from the diseases which flesh is heir to,
It is a most charitable profession if the doctor
cares more for his patient than for his purse.
Of all the callings in the world there is none
which admits of a greater scope for exercising
one's sense of benevolence than the medical
profession. The preservation of health is the
first condition on which all the enjoyments of
life depend. And any art that professes to work
towards this good end confers the highest bless-
ings on humanity. In the afternoon we played
badminton, and afterwards went to the river
Chief of Gondal.
157
in lovely summer weather. Here we saw many
sprightly youths swimming and enjoying them-
selves.
This is the purest exercise of health,
The kind refresher of the summer heats.'
I, however, regret to notice an objectionable
practice among English swimmers, whether
young or old. They strip themselves stark
naked before plunging into the stream. My
countrymen would consider this to be the
height of indecency. Decency and indecency
may be conventional terms. But a practice
must be called indecent which is held as such
by the consensus of opinions of all the civilized
nations in the world.
31st August.
In the morning I accompanied the young
Hancocks who went out fishing. They caught
some fish whilst I sat reading in the punt, and
amused myself by watching them. In the
afternoon we went to Beckenham in order to
consult Mr. Seymour Conway about the photo-
graphic apparatus I wish to buy. He was very
kind and showed me everything in his studio,
158
Journal of the
and explained to me a good deal about photo-
graphy which I had not known before. He
also made out a list of the things I shall require,
and is going to order them for me from a well
known maker in the city. It rained hard in the
evening, and we had a wet going home. It was
quite cold at Richmond when we got back there
in the evening, although it was not so when we
left. The climate is ever changing at this time
of the year, though in winter it is said to be
always dreary.
1st September.
I wrote a few letters in the morning, and then
walked down to the hair-dresser's shop to get
shaved. In England the generality of people
shave themselves. There are a few itinerant bar-
bers as we see in India, where it is customary for
the people to get everything possible done for
them. That an English gentleman, nay an
English nobleman, shaves himself, is a thing past
all belief in India, where even the poorest can
afford the luxury of engaging the services of a
barber every week or a fortnight. In England
when a man wants to get shaved or his hair cut, he
Chief of Gondal.
159
has to go to the shop of the barber, who supplies
him with all the necessaries for the purpose. The
arrangements are complete and perfectly satis-
factory. I was surprised to know that former-
ly there were barber-surgeons here as in India,
and that the great College of Physicians had its
origin in a society of barber-surgeons. But
the thing that has surprised me most is the
habit of talkativeness that is universally common
to the brothers of this craft. I bought some
views of Richmond. They are not so good as
the photographs done by Mr. Conway, and I
wish that I, like him, could always photograph
the views I wish to have, instead of buying
them. By the time I get my new photographic
apparatus and start on my fresh travels in India,
I hope that I shall be able to do so. In the
afternoon we played lawn-tennis on the public
grounds near Kew Gardens. They are very
prettily situated near the river and the old Deer
Park, and are large enough to accommodate any
number of players at the same time.
2nd September, Sunday.
It rained heavily all the morning, and I stayed
160
Journal of the
at home to finish Volume IV. of the "History
of Our Own Times," which has assisted me
greatly to understand the real system of English
Government. The administrative system is
excellent as far as it goes. To my mind it is a
modified edition of the system that prevailed in
India in the times of the Máhábharat and in
still later periods. Of course there are differences,
and very great differences too, between the two
systems. The chief difference lies in the fact
that there is a limited monarchy in England, while
we had an absolute monarchy in India. A
sovereign without full powers is no sovereign in
the right sense of the word, and is not likely to
call forth to the fullest extent the respect and
loyalty of the subject population. I am, there-
fore, in favour of absolute monarchy. It would
be wrong to suppose that this form of govern-
ment had no constitutional checks in India in
✓ times gone by. The king used to appoint his
Purohit or spiritual guide, who must always be
high-born, truthful, pious, most accomplished in
law, worldly knowledge, moral philosophy, and
theology. He would always warn the king
Chief of Gondal.
161
when he was going a wrong way, and would
show him the right path. He was therefore
his moral preceptor. He was a subject, as he
was under the king's protection. To assist him
in the administrative work the king had an Execu-
tive Council of eight ministers, who were required
to be perfectly acquainted with their respective
work, well-bred, loyal, natives of the soil, and
learned in the sacred lore. This was something
like the Cabinet Council of the age. In import-
ant matters concerning the welfare of the peo-
ple, &c., the king used to convene the Jan Sabha,
or the People's Council, elected by the people
themselves. They were elected from the cight
principal directions and from the centre, and
their number therefore varied from 9 to 108,
according to the extent of the kingdom. This
People's Council, or the House of Commons,
was convened quarterly, monthly or fortnightly,
according to the exigencies of the times. The
aristocracy or the landholding classes had also
their representatives in the Council; in fact, the
sole aim and object of the king was to rule his
people by acts of justice and moderation, to lead
20
162
Journal of the
them to the path of duty and truth, and to satisfy
them in every respect. Hence he was called
Raja, or "pleaser" of his subjects. If the king
committed any offence he had to undergo cer-
tain penances in private. If the offence were
grave he had to do penance before the people,
and should the crime be one of an unpardonable
nature, the Purohit, with the consent of all the
ministers and of the General Council, might de-
pose the king, and place on the throne his eldest
son. A deposed king was kept under restraint,
otherwise his person was considered sacred. He
was never chained, flogged, mutilated or killed,
for he was believed to be the representative of
the preserving force of Nature, or the Lord's
Anointed, as they called it in England. In spite
of these restraints, the sovereign was the centre
of all power, which could only be directed to-
wards the good of the people. In my opinion
the Crown exercises very little real power under
the present British Constitution. The effect of
this on the Indian mind is not of the healthiest.
In the first place, the absentee government is
not very agreeable to the tradition-bound people
}
Chief of Gondal.
163
of India. The people are proverbially loyal, v
but the vast number of the ignorant mass do
not know who their sovereign is. The vice-
roys and governors come and go like meteors,
and they leave the people in still greater bewil-
derment. They want something to pour their
phial of loyalty upon. An absentee government
has its advantages as well as its disadvantages.
But looking to the peculiarly loyal frame of mind
of the people, how advantageous it would be,
both for India and England, if the Queen-
Empress were to remove her residence from
Windsor to Bombay or Calcutta. It would be
the height of political wisdom if she did so. In
the afternoon we drove over to Wimbledon to
say good-bye to Mr. and Mrs. De Vas, who
have been very kind to us. A great many
branches of the trees in Richmond Park have
been blown down by the wind, and the whole place
looked quite different to what it generally does
in fair weather. All the deer looked wet through,
and were cowering amongst the bushes and the
bracken, which sheltered them a little from the
sleet and wind. In the evening we played
chess.
164
Journal of the
3rd September
We went to the Fisheries Exhibition again
in the morning to see those parts we had been
unable to see the first time we went there.
The stuffed fish and birds form, I think, the
prettiest part of the Exhibition, and the collec-
tion of shells and corals and other wonders of
the deep is very beautiful. The Aquarium is
not so good as the one at Brighton, nor did it
contain so many varieties of fish. The models
of sea-monsters in the centre gallery were very
curious. The Indian Section, I must not omit
to say, was rich in exhibits, which interested me
very much. Besides some fishing boats and
canoes from Bengal, there was a pack of playing
cards made of fish scales. There were also
some specimens of a fishing cat common in
Lower Bengal. Bombay exhibited a specimen
of the Kurrachee alligator and also a model of
a fisherman's hut. Madras exhibited a varied
collection of fish. At this Exhibition almost
all parts of the world were more or less repre-
sented. Separate courts were assigned to each.
It was impossible to see all these even curso-
Chief of Gondal.
165
rily. I am glad that I was able to pay a
second visit, and even now I think I must have
left a good many things unseen. This Interna-
tional Fisheries Exhibition appears to be a very
popular show in London, for thousands flock
to see it.
4th September.
We went up to London after breakfast and
bought a nice pony carriage for Bhaoobha at
the Baker Street Bazar. We also went to see
my dogs, which are well kept and cared for by
the dog fancier. We afterwards went to Bur-
lington Arcade to buy some artificial flowers.
They are very pretty and would deceive almost
any body. I also bought a pistol and a pretty
locket, and then I went to consult Mr. Runting,
the chiropodist, for the last time. I went for a
row on the river in the evening. I am sorry to
think that I will soon have to leave some friends
behind. We are leaving the country altogether
next week.
5th September.
We went up to London to say good-bye to
Mr. FitzGerald, and to thank him for all his
166
Journal of the
civility to us. After dinner we went to see the
play called the Streets of London at the Adelphi
Theatre. It is a splendid piece. A real fire
takes place on the stage, which is very cleverly
arranged in some way without danger. I am
glad that I have been able to see this piece.
before leaving England.
6th September.
We drove over to Hampton Court through
Richmond Park to see the Royal Palace and
Gardens, which are very interesting and beautiful.
There is a vine in the gardens which has
upwards of 1,300 bunches of grapes upon it,
all contained within a single summer-house.
I bought an engraving of it, as well as some
photographs of the Palace and its surround-
ings. We went back through Tiddington and
Twickenham, and thus saw a good deal of
pretty country on our way. These sorts of
excursions are very pleasant.
7th September.
I finished and posted my Indian letters in the
morning, and then went for a stroll with Major
Hancock's eldest son. There was a theatrical
Chief of Gondal.
167
performance of a piece called "Pinafore" at the
hotel in the evening. I thought it very amusing,
especially the songs given by Josephine. Sir
Joseph the Admiral was very amusing indeed.
The acting was defective in some places. I
call that acting good which is natural and life-
like, not affected and overdone. The actors
should try to represent on the stage what we
see in every-day life, in a pleasing and instruc-
tive manner. For good moral plays are, in my
opinion, the best reforming agencies. They can
successfully expose the weaknesses and vaga-
ries of social life and bring home the truth, that
virtue, howsoever persecuted in the beginning,
is always triumphant in the end, and that vice
and immorality will always lead to ruin and
perdition. They must inspire the audience with
admiration for what is morally good and with
scorn for what is radically bad. This should
be the goal towards which the actors direct
their histrionic talents. If they fail to do this
they belie their profession.Mere amusement
without instruction is good for nothing. I have
noticed this shortcoming in a number of plays.
168
Journal of the
I have seen in this country. The scenery, as a
rule, is got up with great cost and ingenuity.
The stage is adorned with all the auxiliaries of
beauty which human skill can invent. The
acting is often very charming and amusing, but
the moralizing factor is either absent or plays
only a minor or subordinate part.
8th September.
We left Richmond in the morning about 11
o'clock to take up our old quarters in the Pad-
dington Hotel, from which it is more convenient
to make our final start on Monday. I am
rather sorry to leave Richmond, where I have
made a good many friends, but I am afraid
we have stayed in Richmond and in London
longer than we ought to, for the time now left
at our disposal is too short to enable us to see
the principal places on the Continent. We will
now be obliged to leave out many places from
our programme. I took Major Hancock's boys
to the Royal Aquarium at Westminster in the
afternoon, where we saw the latest novelties in
the way of amusements. We saw a giant who
sang and walked about amongst us. There
Chief of Gondal.
169
was also a ventriloquist, who made some mario-
nettes talk amusingly. Another man imitated
the notes of various birds and animals, but not
so well as some natives I have heard in India.
There were some acrobats and contortionists
as usual, but they were not at all superior to
Indian performers. There are people in India
whose performances are much better, but no-
body notices the poor Indian who performs
without stage, tables, chairs and other append-
ages of outward show. He gives his perform-
ances in the open streets. He has yet to
learn what attraction lies in secresy.
9th September, Sunday.
We walked round to pay a visit to the kennel
in the morning, where we found all the dogs
flourishing, except the mastiff bitch, who had
a cramp, but I hope she will soon get all
right. We went for a drive in the afternoon
along the Thames Embankment by Battersea,
and home through Hyde Park, by way of tak-
ing a last view of London and the people in
general. We went out for a walk in the even-
ing and amused ourselves. I shall always re-
21
170
Journal of the
member this walk, as it was a very pleasant one.
When we returned home we engaged ourselves
in making preparations for leaving England for
good. I came, I saw, and I enjoyed myself. My
long-cherished desire has been satisfied. And
I should like to note down in brief what opinion
I carry with me about a renowned country which
plays so important a part in the world's history.
Intellectually speaking, the people of England
are the most advanced nation of the world-
their cousins of America perhaps excepted.
Perseverance, enterprise, energy and industry are
the cardinal features of Englishmen. No one is
satisfied with his lot. All are goaded by ambi-
tion to rise higher. Activity prevails everywhere.
There is a grand intellectual race, and every one
tries to outrun the other. This virtue is wor-
thy of imitation. Speaking from a social point
of view, I do not think my countrymen have
much to borrow from Englishmen. Some of the
etiquette and usages of society are, no doubt,
very good, and might be adopted with advantage.
For instance, an English lady plays a more
honorable rôle in an English household than
Chief of Gondal.
171
I
an Indian lady does in an Indian household.
should like to give more liberty to the Indian
ladies, though not quite to the extent to
which an English lady is privileged to enjoy it.
It will be enough for our purpose if they have
as much liberty as their sex enjoyed in times
gone by. I really see no reason why women
should be confined within the four walls of their
house and not allowed to go out without being
veiled. At the same time, I do not wish to see
an Indian lady dance arm-in-arm with a young
man in a ball-room. I must not forget to dis-
abuse the minds of those who suppose that an
Indian lady has no privileges. In household
matters she is the leading spirit, though in some
castes she is still considered a nonentity. She
ought to get the place to which she is entitled.
The English women are happier than their Indian
sisters, inasmuch as they are not in the least
worried and oppressed by their mothers-in-law
and sisters-in-law. In England there is no joint-
family system as is the case in India. No sooner
does a man marry than he lives separate from his
parents, and is allowed to manage his own house
172
Journal of the
according to his own tastes and means.
This is
a quiet mode of rendering impossible the constant
strifes and heartburnings between mothers-in-
law and their daughters-in-law, of which a Hin-
doo house is often the theatre. In every social
question her voice is greatly respected, and no
religious rite is performed without her consent
and participation. When opinions differ her
opinion generally carries weight. The only
matter of regret is that she is not now so well
educated as her sister once was in ancient India.
Indian women should be educated in the old
fashion. I am not in favour of sending grown
up girls and young women to schools. In for-
mer times we had no girls' schools or female
colleges; but our women were none the less
educated for all that. A woman used to receive
the necessary education from her father, brother,
mother, husband or some other relation, and this
education passed from mother to daughter as
a sort of inheritance. A mother was the real
mistress of her daughter. She taught her to
read and write the Vernacular and Sanskrit
characters, to make her read and understand
Chief of Gondal.
173
some sacred books tending to make her pious,
chaste, and modest, taught her to sing hymns,
gurbas and nuptial songs, taught her sewing,
cooking, worshipping, and managing the house-
hold affairs. Elementary arithmetic was also
a part of her curriculum. An implicit obedi-
ence to the husband's order was the first duty
impressed on her mind. This sort of female
education is not yet defunct. It prevails even
now in certain families. I should like to see
this revived to a great extent. I deprecate
the system of infant marriages. Girls should be
sufficiently old to know what marriage is. I may
even go the length of proposing that they may
have their own choice of husbands. This cus-
tom was in vogue amongst the Kshatrias of old.
But as religion comes in the way in the case
of Brahmans and other castes, I will not venture
to tread on this delicate ground. I am happy
to note that the English people do not favour
polygamy. That is a pernicious custom, and it
is a great pity that some Indian castes cling
to it. The marriage rites of the English are
very simple and intelligible; those of
my
174
Journal of the
countrymen are very complicated, but neverthe-
less they are very binding and touching if pro-
perly understood. The thing is that the cere-
monies are all performed in Sanskrit, which is not
now understood by the majority of the people.
It would be very proper should the substance of
the ceremonies be explained in the Vernacular
to the bride and the bridegroom who are most
concerned with them. My opinion, with regard
to widow marriages, is ultra conservative, and I
don't wish to dwell on it at length in this place.
I like the way in which the Englishmen take
their dinners. Everything is thoroughly clean
and free from noise and bustle. There is no-
thing like pressing you to eat more than
you de-
sire. The people in England are very courteous.
even to their meanest servants. But they are ra-
ther stiff in their demeanour towards strangers.
They would not even exchange a word with one
who was not introduced to them. In this respect
the Indian habit of familiarising oneself with all
is very praiseworthy. I prefer the dress of an
English gentleman-minus his hat-as being
more convenient and decent. The English peo-
Chief of Gondal.
175
ple as a class are educated. Education has made
rapid strides in the country, and has permeated
all classes of the community, from the highest
to the lowest. Such is not the case in India,
where the blessings of education are enjoyed
only by the well-to-do. The circumstances of
the two countries are no doubt different. In
England every one can follow the pursuit of
life that suits him best. In India professional
classes are more or less hereditary. Education
among such classes should be introduced gra-
dually and carefully, and with the sole object of
helping them in following their respective avoca-
tions with success. Higher education should
be given to the high and middle classes, and
every possible encouragement should be given
to higher education, for that alone will raise
India in the scale of nations. The political
superiority of England at the present time is
beyond all question. It is the secret of her
glory which has spread over the length and
breadth of the whole world. I have briefly
referred to it elsewhere. In this connection I
simply desire to say that the manifold advan-
·
176
Journal of the
tages she has reaped in the field of politics,
she might confer, without mistrust, upon the
dumb millions of India, whose lot is cast with
hers. It is difficult to understand why some of the
highest posts in the realm should not be given
to the deserving children of the soil, when even
under the Moghal rule, which was not so popu-
lar as the English rule, no such distinction was
observed. Increased education creates new
aspirations in the hearts of the educated. To
grant the one and deny the other is to sow the seed
and not let it grow. The plea of backwardness,
which was urged half a century ago, will not
hold good at this moment, when educated men
can be had by thousands and tens of thousands.
I think the time has come when India should
be represented-and adequately represented-
in the English Parliament, or the juster course
would be to grant her a Parliament of her own
on the basis and principles of the English Par-
liament. The doors of the high military service
should be opened to those natives who are
desirous of distinguishing themselves as gallant
sons of Mars. This will be utilizing the latent
Chief of Gondal.
177
energy of the country lying idle in oblivion.
It will strengthen, instead of weakening, the hand
of the Paramount Power, which has taken root
ft
in the hearts of the people. Unnecessary
burdens on the people should be removed,
taxation should be diminished, and the cost of
administration should be lessened by employ-
ing native agency on a larger scale. Economy
and efficiency must of course go hand in hand,
but I think there is no lack now of efficient
natives. The connection between the tributary
States and the Paramount Power should be
drawn closer, and greater friendship and
cordiality should prevail between them. Their
relation should be like that of the belly and the
limbs in the fable. They should work con-
jointly and make a common cause of bringing
about a complete regeneration of India. The
people should be treated with a greater amount
of confidence. For it is this confidence which
will evoke the most genuine feelings of loyalty
from their hearts. To effect India's regener-
ation is the real mission of England in India.
This can be accomplished by respecting the
22
178
Journal of the
rights and feelings of the people, and by study-
ing and supplying their real wants. Speaking
from a religious points of view, I am inclined to
suppose that women in England are more reli-
giously inclined than men. They are growing
less materialistic in their views. In India, too,
women are more pious and, to some extent, more
superstitious than men. I will not venture to
compare the merits of the two religious sys-
tems-the Christian and the Hindu. I leave
this task to those who are every way competent
to do so. All I wish to say on that is, that a
man will be happy if he respects and obeys the
dictates of his religion in good faith. As far as
possible he should avoid wounding the religious
feelings of others. English rule is so very
popular in India, chiefly because it respects the
religious instincts of the people. There is
only one general complaint against it in this
connection, which it is the duty, nay, the interest,
of English rulers to remove as soon as may
be. The rulers of India have got by common
consent the title of the Preserver of the Cows.
For the cow is supposed to be the most sacred
Chief of Gondal.
179
animal in India, and was not allowed to be killed
by anybody. To kill a cow is a very heinous
sin. It is therefore no wonder that to kill thou-
sands of cows for the sake of eating is to inflict
a very deep wound in the heart of the Hindu.
Whatever be the English notion on this matter,
it is politically wrong to allow cow-killing in
India. I am sorry to find that the English
rulers are engendering a bitter ill-feeling among
the conquered races for this fault, which can
easily be rectified. A cow is a very useful
animal and supplies us food. Even its dung is
held sacred, and is utilised in various ways. A
living cow supplies food to a greater number of
men for a longer time than when killed. It is
therefore no wisdom to kill the hen that lays
the golden egg. It is thus wrong to kill a cow
on economic principles. It is equally wrong
to kill it on agricultural grounds. In India
bullocks are the only animals used for ploughing
purposes; they are the wealth of the culti-
vating classes. Kill the cows and you lessen the
number of the bullocks. This is actually the
case. The price of bullocks has greatly in-
180
Journal of the
creased of late, not because their demand is
also grown in proportion, but because they are
becoming rare. Agriculture suffers seriously- a
very great evil in India, which is an agricultural
country. I am not going to say all I feel on
this matter. I mean to reserve it for some
other occasion. What I would like to impress
upon the British Government is that it is a grave
political blunder to hurt the religious sensibilities
of an alien people by permitting the killing of
cows, which are not only innocent, mild and
useful creatures, but are held holy by a large
section of the people. It would entail no great
sacrifice to prohibit cow-killing in British India.
It might be some inconvenience to those who
love to indulge in their flesh. But the corre-
sponding advantage is that the hearts of a
whole section of the people would be won over at
one stroke. I anxiously hope that this matter
will receive attention in proper quarters.
It is difficult to dogmatize on the moral state
of a country. For morality and immorality are
considered conventional terms. What one na-
tion calls moral the other calls immoral. Suffice
Chief of Gondal.
181
it to say that I have met in England men who
may be held out as moral patterns to the whole
world. The same remark may be applicable
to other countries as well. But I must be silent
regarding them as long as I have had no oppor-
tunity of seeing them. I had neither the means
nor the ability to judge for myself what status
England occupies in the field of philosophy. I
have read of her Mill and Hamilton, but they do
not come up to the estimate I have formed of
some of the ancient philosophers of my own
country. The little I have read of the six
schools of Hindu philosophy makes me bold
to say that the Indian sages were master-minds
and deserve to occupy the topmost places in
the ranks of thinkers. But I must wait and
live and learn before I can form a correct
opinion on such grave matters.
These are in brief the impressions I have
received from my visit to England. I offer my
sincere thanks to the people individually and
collectively for the very kind and hospitable
treatment I received at their hands. Perhaps
no people in the world except my country-
182
Journal of the
men are so kind and generous as the deni-
zens of England. Wherever I went I was
received with warmth and cordiality. I cannot
sufficiently thank them for all this. It is with
regret that I have to say good-bye to England.
I hope to pay a second visit to her after my
installation, and to make a longer stay there.
We left London two days later than was first
intended, by the 10 o'clock train from Victoria.
for Paris, getting there at about 8 o'clock
in the evening. We had a very smooth passage
across the Channel, and an easy journey from
Calais through the country which struck me as
strangely different from England, although so
little distant from it. The large open plains
and the scarcity of hedges reminded me more
of India than any other country I have seen.
The people themselves and their costume also
struck me as being poorer and inferior to those
of English people. They also appeared to be
less energetic and seemed to be idling about
their work. This is perhaps the natural result
~ of the epicurean habits of the people. French-
men are proverbially fond of indulging in plea-
Chief of Gondal.
183
sure.
An extravagant love of luxury has an
enervating influence on nations as well as
individuals. It has hastened the fall of many
a flourishing kingdom. A reader of history can
easily trace the decline of imperial Rome,
Greece, Persia and other monarchies to this
cause. And yet few nations care to profit by
these stern historical facts. I am afraid France,
and also England, to some extent, are drifting
towards this danger. I wish they could see
their positions more clearly.
11th September.
We visited the Picture Galleries of the Louvre
Palace immediately after breakfast, and I was
much delighted with the colouring of many of
the pictures. But generally speaking their sub-
jects were very uninteresting to me. I liked No.
251 the most. We afterwards drove to L'Arc
de Triomphe de L'Etoile, from the top of which
we had a fine birds-eye-view of Paris. The
broad streets lined with trees on either side,
with separate footpaths and rides and drives for
carriages, struck me as very beautiful. All the
principal roads radiate from this part, and we
184
Journal of the
drove along one of them to the Bois de Bou-
logne, where we had some refreshment at the
Restaurant adjoining the cascades. The cas-
cades are very pretty, and the whole park appears
to be admirably laid out in walks and rides and
drives to suit the taste of all people. In parts it
was too prim, which marred its beauty to some
extent. On the whole, however, it is a very
good Park. In the summer time it must
be a charming place to explore in every direction.
Just now it looks rather autumnal, and is not
much frequented. Otherwise it is the most
fashionable resort in Paris, and occupies more
than six times the area of Hyde Park. On our way
back we visited the Trocadero, a fine building
which was first used for the great Paris Exhi-
bition. It has a commanding situation facing
the Champ de Mars, and looks altogether very
imposing. I must, however, note here that the
four green figures before the Trocadero spoil the
appearance very much. In the evening we
went to the Hippodrome, where we saw a series
of amusements far superior to any of the kind
we have yet seen.
One of the female gymnasts
Chief of Gondal.
185
jumped from a platform at the top of the build-
ing into a net which must have been at least a
hundred feet below her. She also flew from
the trapezes and jumped from high platforms
almost incredible distances to be caught by
another woman also suspended in mid air.
Another performer, of the male sex, ascended
a spiral plain on a large ball and descended on
it again. There were also some equestrian
performances; but they were not so good as
Wilson's. The performance wound up with an
obstacle race. This was very amusing, espe-
cially the last part of it, where the runners had
to struggle with a series of large nets very
artfully arranged to hinder their progress. The
Hippodrome is a magnificent building, holding
upwards of 8,000 spectators, and, I believe, they
have equally good performances of various
kinds there every night.
We drove to Versailles in the morning to see
the Royal Palaces and Gardens. The galleries
are full of large historical pictures, of which
those of the late wars in Austria and the Crimea
are most magnificent. The colouring is beauti-
23
186
Journal of the
ful and life-like, and the scencs depicted are most
splendid. They give one a better idea of the
reality of war than any other sort of description
could possibly do, and I was immensely pleased.
with them. But this pleasure was not unmixed;
for the actual wars, of which the paintings be-
fore me were mere meagre shadows, must have
cost thousands of valuable lives and must be an
enormous waste of money. It is not unfrequent-
ly that wars are waged on justifiable grounds.
And yet the horrors of war are always gloomy
to contemplate, even to those who are used to
them by profession. We afterwards saw the
State carriages. They were very grand equi
pages, which could only be used in a procession
on State occasions. The town of Versailles is
the seat of the French Senate and Assembly, and
is only ten miles distant from Paris. It is
approached by avenues lined with a double
row of trees. We visited the China manufactory
at Sevres on our way back to Paris. We were
shown over all the different departments of the
industry. The painting appeared to be the
most difficult part of the work, and it requires
Chief of Gondal.
187
great skill and patience on the part of the artists
to accomplish it successfully. Here also were
four pieces of tapestry supposed to be the 'Gob-
elin tapestry' and the best in the world. They
are very beautiful indeed, and I have not seen
the like of them any where. We saw some very
beautiful specimens of ornamental vases and
other things. Some of these are actually valued
at upwards of 50,000 francs, so nicely worked
are they. One of the vases with two figures on
it was exceedingly well painted. In the evening
we walked to the Palais Royal to see the shops.
They are most beautifully illuminated and most
tastefully arranged, and I saw a great variety
of jewellery, which pleased me more than any
I have seen in London. Paris by night is very
picturesque. The long lines of lamps shining,
the broad streets for miles together, with the
brilliant illuminations of the shops, give the whole
city the appearance of a continual "Diváli.”
There are no streets in London to be compared
with those in Paris, and I am quite surprised to
find so much difference between the Cities. In
point of beauty Paris is far superior to London.
188
Journal of the
13th September.
To-day we visited the Church of St. Chapelle,
the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the Courts of
Justice, and the Morgue. The Sainte Chapelle
is a very ancient Church, and is brilliantly
decorated. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is a
very large and magnificent church, and is said
to be one of the finest specimens of Gothic
architecture in Europe. All the churches are
very beautiful, and are far more splendidly
decorated than any I saw in England. I notice
the same thing in all the public buildings, and
even the theatres and hotels and restaurants.
are much more brilliantly and tastefully decora-
ted than any I have seen elsewhere. Paris
hotels in general are just like palaces. We
afterwards drove through the Champs Elysées
to see the panorama of the siege of Paris.
The Champs Elysées were full of people, all bent
upon one kind of amusement or other. In the
evening we dined at the Lorne Hotel, and we
went to the Eden Theatre afterwards. We
saw a piece called "Excelsior" there, which
gave occasion for a great deal of dancing and
Chief of Gondal.
189
some lovely scenery. In Paris there is no lack
of places of amusement. There are more than
thirty theatres and a large hippodrome or
circus. Such places of amusement are often
very essential for the recreation of the mind,
which requires some agreeable change in
order that it may be better able to perform its
functions.
14th September.
We found time to visit the Madelaine, the
Invalides, where Napoleon's tomb is, and the
Pantheon, the Palace of Luxemburg and the
Bastile Column to-day. The Madelaine is a
modern church, but is beautifully built. It is
surrounded by a colonnade of fifty-two pillars,
with big statues of saints in niches in the walls.
The inside is even more gorgeous. The tomb
of Napoleon Bonaparte is certainly worth seeing.
It is all marble with beautiful carving. The
whole tomb is said to have cost about thirty-six
lacs of rupees! The Palace of Luxemburg is a
superb building. Attached to it are extensive
gardens laid out in avenues with rows of trees,
and forming a most agreeable place of resort.
190
Journal of the
The pictures and statuary in the Palace delight-
ed me exceedingly. How astonished they would
be to see such things in India. We went to the
opera in the evening. The opera house is
decorated like a Royal Palace, and I admired
the painted ceilings and the splendid stair-
case and corridors even more than the interior
of the theatre. The performance was very
grand, and finished up with an earthquake.
The dancing and the scenery were far superior
to any I have seen in England. In this ballet.
two or three hundred young girls, attired
in a variety of fancy coloured dresses, danced.
together to the accompaniment of music with
befitting actions and gestures: the effect was
unsurpassable. At the same time I must not
omit to note that the dancing as an art was not
of a superior order. The art is not so well
cultivated as in India, where the performance
of a professional girl is much more difficult and
graceful. We returned to our lodgings with the
thought of leaving Paris the next morning.
O! how painful is the thought. I have scarcely
smelled the dainties before the dishes are re-
Chief of Gondal.
191
moved! The little I saw of Paris has whetted
my desire to see it more. But unfortunately
the time at our disposal was very short. I
wish we had curtailed our stay in London and
in Richmond in order to see some of the prin-
cipal towns of France, and especially Paris,
a little more leisuredly. I am enchanted with
the beauty of the place. The streets are broad
and clean, and copiously lighted at night.
Though I am ignorant of their language, the
people appear to me to be more courteous but
less sincere than an average Englishman. All
their cunning appeared to have centred in the
little beards on their chin. My opinion, of
course, should be taken with caution, for I
had to come in contact more with the hotel
people than with the French gentry so called.
Perhaps there are few cities in the world which
are provided with so many places of amuse-
ment as Paris. The people are very jovial and
pleasure-loving, and their motto appears to be-
"Though sages may pour out their wisdom's treasure,
There is no sterner moralist than pleasure."
I hope the pleasures they indulge in have the
192
Journal of the
moralizing influence on their minds contem-
plated by the poet. It is no use striving hard
for pleasures which are evanescent in their
nature. True pleasure is that which knows no
bating. It chiefly consists in mental reflections
relating to peace and good-will to our fellow-
creatures. This pleasure is within the reach
of all-prince or peasant-and is well worth
striving for. It is lasting.
15th September.
The
We started for Brussels by an early train, and
got there in time to see the Museum and the
Church of Notre Dame in the afternoon.
pictures in the Museum are more curious than
beautiful, and did not strike me as anything
particular after those in Paris. The Chapel of
Notre Dame is an elegant building, and is one
of the most beautiful places in the town. We
went to the Eden Theatre in the evening, and
saw a variety of amusements. A cleverly illu-
minated fountain, in which some statues were
arranged by turns, pleased me more than any-
thing else. The changing hues of the chang-
ing jets of water had a most pleasing effect.
Chief of Gondal.
193
There were also some clowns and jugglers and
acrobats. There were some capital marionettes,
and some performing dogs, which were admir-
ably trained. Such merry sights are good and
useful. They serve as tonics to the mind when
it finds itself uneasy for want of a better occu-
pation, or when it is exhausted and feels the
strain of overwork. They are also useful in
another way. The human mind is restless and
always desires something new. There are some
desires which are 'offsprings of wrong judgment.'
These should never be indulged in but be re-
pressed. But desires harmless in their nature
may be gratified in order that they may not
disturb the mind any further. The distinguished
author of the "Sketch-Book" is quite right when
he says that "every desire bears its death in
its very gratification." When the number of
desires is thus curtailed the mind will obtain
the wished-for rest and happiness of its own
accord, for I think it is an incontrovertible
fact that one with few desires feels himself
much happier than one whose desires are
many.
24
194
Journal of the
16th September, Sunday.
We spent to-day in driving out to see the field
of Waterloo. This village is eight miles south-
east of Brussels. All the relative positions of
the troops engaged were explained to us from
the top of the Belgian mound. It was all
very interesting. We drove home through the
forests of Soignes and Ardennes and the Bois
de Camboes. The long deep avenues through
the tall trees were very pretty, and the setting
sun showed them to us at their best. We spent
the evening with Colonel and Mrs. Waddington
and their family, who were very kind, and told
us a great deal about Brussels, which I wish we
had more time to see. The people of Brussels
appeared to me to be more handsome than the
people of any other European country I have
yet seen. Their features are well made and
good-looking.
17th September.
We travelled through to-day to Homburg.
We stopped for two hours at Cologne, which
gave us time to see the Cathedral. This is a
most magnificent structure; there was nothing
Chief of Gondal.
195
like it in England. It was first begun some six
centuries ago, and it is yet in course of comple-
tion. No doubt the work must have proceeded
very slowly. But at any rate the building is
being constructed on a stupendous scale. We
bought some photographs here and passed up
the Rhine from Bonn to Frankfort. It is un-
luckily impossible for a tourist like myself an-
xious to see the most of Europe in a given time
to linger for long anywhere, or I should like to
have stayed for a few days in these parts. The
scenery about the Rhine is said to be very plea-
sant in the day time. But we had to cross
it in the evening. And the moonlight effect
appeared to me very charming indeed.
18th September.
We occupied the morning in strolling
through the rooms of the Karsaal and the pretty
gardens where the mineral springs are situated.
I tasted the water of one of the springs and found
it palatable.
We saw a good many English
people there playing lawn-tennis and wander-
ing about the walks. In foreign countries it is
a great relief to find people who can under-
196
Journal of the
stand what we say. Although we had forti-
fied ourselves against any possible difficulty
by taking with us a courier who was Jack of all
the European languages, yet he could not be
with us at all times, nor would it be always con-
venient to talk through an intepreter. It was a
matter of surprise to me that more English was
spoken in Germany than in France and Belgium,
which are nearer England. In the season the
band plays here three times a day and the place
is crowded. In the afternoon we went for a
drive to the Roman Camp at Saalbruck. We
drove home by another way through forests of
spruce, firs and mountain ash, and a sort of
beech tree which grows to a great height. The
dark gloom of these forests makes them look.
very cool and pleasant.
19th September.
We passed to-day much in the same way as
yesterday, only we went for a still more interest-
ing drive through the deer forest and through
several German villages. We also drove past
the site selected for the grand manoeuvres on
the 21st when 80,000 men are to march past the
Chief of Gondal.
197
Emperor of Germany and his Royal guests. I
am sorry I shall not be able to be here to witness
this long array of German soldiers, who are
acknowledged in the present age to be the most
warlike people in the world. Such sham fights
and camps of exercise are even more interest-
ing to behold than real warfare. For they afford
us full opportunity from a coign of vantage
of seeing the military tactics which a skilful
general is able to direct without the horrors and
bloodshed of actual battle. It is a fine open
country and looks very fertile. The apple trees
lining the roads were so overburdened with fruit
that each bough had to be propped up, and they
presented a very pretty appearance. We left
for Lucerne in the evening after dinner, getting
there about breakfast time the next day.
20th September.
We reached Lucerne in time for a late break-
fast, and then drove along the borders of the
lake to a place called Staustadt. The moun-
tains on one side and the deep blue waters of
the lake on the other gave us ever changing
views of lovely scenery. The high mountains.
198
Journal of the
are covered with snow, and stand out well
behind the nearer ones which surround the lake,
and cast their reflection into it. This looked
very lovely indeed. I had read of the lakes
of Switzerland-a country much renowned for its
beautiful lakes. But the ideal I had formed
fell considerably short of the reality. The
scenery was simply enchanting. We returned
home again for a short rest, and then walk-
ed out to see the colossal lion carved out
of a solid rock in memory of the Swiss Guard
who fell during the French Revolution whilst
gallantly defending the king their master.
We then visited the Cathedral, in which there
was nothing particular to note, except that a
big organ was playing there, the music of
which seemed to me to be almost too loud for
the building. I think this organ would sound
much better in the Crystal Palace or some
other similar building. In the evening we sat
outside the Schweizerhof Hotel to hear the
band play, which was rather pleasant. (Although
I could not understand the tune still the
effect of it was pleasing.) It is in the power
Chief of Gondal.
199
of music to soften and elevate the mind as well
as to find recreation for it. I am naturally very
fond of my native music, which, as a science,
I consider to be nearer perfection than any
other music-vocal or instrumental-I have yet
heard. It is said—and truly said—that of all
men the happiness of an independent monarch,
who is healthy in body and in mind, and who is
blessed with all the comforts of life, is the
greatest; but that the happiness of one who
knows and understands music in the right
sense of the word is even greater than that of
such a potentate. The pleasure a musician
feels is his own. In the "Merchant of Venice"
Lorenzo is rather hard upon those who know
no music. He says-
"The man that hath no music in himself,
Nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds,
Is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils."
Let every man judge for himself how far the
speaker is right.
21st September.
We drove out in the morning towards Meg
gen.
We passed several very pretty little
200
Journal of the
houses where it must be pleasant to spend the
summer time. It rained a little on our way
back, and I am afraid the fine weather has come
to an end just when we most want it to travel
through the Alps. We started about 2 o'clock
by steamer for Vitznam, and then ascended the
Rigi by a wonderful railway, which was built
not many years ago.
It ascends in a very steep
gradient, and has a third rail in the centre, in
which a toothed wheel runs by way of rendering
the train more safe.
more safe. Steam power is used
only while going upwards. In descending the
speed is regulated by atmospheric air collected
in the cylinder. The views from both railway
and steamer are magnificent. The higher we
ascend the grander the scene which presents
itself to the eye. The snowy tops of the Alps
fringing the blue sky look extremely beautiful.
I thought nothing could be more beautiful than
Scotland, but the country here is on a grander
scale, and I suppose nothing can equal it, except
perhaps the Himalayas, which I hope to see
some day. As we moved on the tops of the
mountain we got enveloped in the mist, so that
Chief of Gondal.
201
we could not see the views as we had hoped to
do, and I am afraid our chances of seeing the
sun rise in the morning are small, unless there
is a sudden change of weather in the night. In
scenes like these, mortal man, with all the
power
he wields over the lower creation, stands help-
less. He feels his insignificance before the
majesty of "God who guides below and rules
above." With all the power of understanding
that he boasts of, man cannot control Nature—
it is God alone that regulates it. And how can
man presume to know nature as a whole when
he himself forms only an infinitely small part of
it, or is rather something resulting from it?
These and similar thoughts kept my anxiety to
see the sunrise scenery in its proper bounds.
The sunset was very lovely.
22nd September.
The morning broke fine and clear, and we got
up at the sound of the Alpine horn and went
out soon after 5 o'clock to see the sun rise.
A large number of tourists flock on this summit
to see the panorama of views which it commands,
especially the sunrise, which is peculiarly beau-
25
202
Journal of the
tiful. The scene was very beautiful, but distant
clouds obscured the sun too much for us to see
it at its best, when I am told that all the snow-
mountains assume a roseate hue. All the lakes
below seemed dwarfed from the great height at
which we stood. The city of Lucerne looked
like a toy village, and the steamers on the lake
looked like flies on the water. The air was
cold and it was pleasant to go back to early
tea before dressing for the day. We left soon
after 9 o'clock for Hospental, descending as
far as Arth, and then went by ordinary railway
passing through Albdorf and Goschenen. From
Goschenen we drove in a carriage over the
Devil's Bridge to Hospental. Our journey lay
through very magnificent scenery, though it was
often interrupted by many long tunnels under
which we had to pass. No pen could describe
it, nor could any paintings or photographs even
give the least idea of its grandeur. Nature
seems to have lavished her beauty on this moun-
tainous region. The railway winds through
somewhat steep passes along the sides of the
mountains leading to a lake which is exquisite
Chief of Gondal.
203
in beauty. The line ascends through part of
the mountains by spiral tunnels which come out
just above the place they started from. It then
continues along a higher ridge until it is neces-
sary to re-enter the mountain in the same way.
The snow mountains get more and more beau-
tiful as we advance. To-morrow we expect to
pass over a part of them at the Rhone Glacier.
We are already 5000 ft. above the level of the
sea, and the change of climate is very exhilara-
ting and delightful. After our arrival at Hos-
pental we went for a walk over the hills in the
vicinity, where we found some Alpine roses and
other flowers, and also dilberries like those we
saw in Yorkshire. We had a jolly scramble
down again, and afterwards explored a moun-
tain torrent near the Hotel. I was very sorry
we could not go to see the St. Bernard dogs,
about whose sagacity I had read so many
interesting accounts.
23rd September, Sunday.
It rained a little and was very misty in the
morning, so we delayed our departure until near-
ly 12 o'clock in hopes that it would clear suffi-
204
Journal of the
ciently to let us see the scenery upon our way.
This time at any rate our hopes did not deceive
us, for fortunately the day grew brighter by
the time we ascended the Furka Pass, and from
the top of it we had a fine view of the snow moun-
tains. We had luncheon there, and then de-
scended to the Rhone Glacier, which was the
most wonderful natural phenomenon I have yet
seen. The whole of the immense ravine be-
tween the two mountains is filled up with frozen
snow, which is broken up and fissured through
all its length until it presents a most strange
appearance. The snow in this valley looks dirty.
It would look very beautiful if it were as white as
on the top of the hills. I think the ice-field must
be as white and pure when fresh. But every-
thing upon the earth is subject to change.
Nothing is free from variations, except the im-
mutable Power that knows and marks the dif-
ferent changes which all things, material and
immaterial, undergo every moment. We walked
along the foot of the glacier, and saw the icy
caverns from which the melting snow flows out,
and forms the sources of the Rhone. We also
Chief of Gondal.
205
entered an artificial cavern carved out of the
ice. It is very curious and the light within it
is of a pale greenish hue, quite different to that
to be seen anywhere else. We walked across
part of the snow and ice on our way to the
hotel. It was very cold, and we could see ice
forming in the little pools as we passed by.
24th September.
We left the Rhone Glacier for Mayrengen,
doing a great part of the journey on horseback,
and passing through the villages of Grimsel,
Handeck, Gutingen and Imhof. After ascend-
ing the Grimsel Pass the road followed the
course of the Aar for most part of the way
through indescribable beauty. There was snow
on the ground for the first part of the way,
but it got warmer as we descended into the
valley. The waterfalls of Handeck and many
others down the mountains on each side were
very beautiful, and the aspect of snow and rock
and foliage was very striking though mono-
tonous. The trees were generally of one sort.
In my opinion the scenery would look more
beautiful if trees grew above the snow-line also.
206
Journal of the
But perhaps they were thought useless in the
economy of nature. I bought a handsome
chamois skin at Grimsel, and I propose to buy
a few more articles peculiar to Switzerland a
little further on.
25th September.
We crossed the great Shydeck Pass to-day
to Grindelwald, visiting the glaciers on the way.
These glaciers are not so big as the Rhone
glacier we visited. Grindelwald is a small
village, the population amounting to about three
thousand people only, yet it appears to be
a favourite summer resort of the surrounding
people. There are snow mountains on all sides,
and I could not but admire in silence the moun-
tain scenery. The inhabitants of the village
looked well-built and healthy after their daily
toil. And health is the vital principle of bliss.
In the neighbourhood of this village we saw an-
other icy cave, deeper and bluer than the first.
26th September.
**
We continued our march to-day over the
Little Shydeck and Mengern Alps to Lauter-
brunnen. We lunched at a small hotel close
Chief of Gondal.
207
under the Wetterhorn, from whence we could
see the Jung Frau and the Silberhorn and
several glaciers. We saw two or three small
avalanches of snow fall into the valley, making
a noise exactly like that of falling rocks. At
two or three points men were standing with
Alpine horns to waken the echoes of the moun-
tains for our entertainment. The echoes were.
long and amusing, and seemed as if there was
"Some heaven in those hills, where the soul of the strain,
That had ceased upon earth, was awaking again.'
In one place there was a double echo high
up in the mountains, which was very fine and
curious. Lauterbrunnen is in a deep gorge be-
tween the mountains under the Jung Frau and
Silberhorn, upon which the setting sun was
shedding a beautiful light just after we arrived.
27th September.
We rode up the mountains to see a place
called Muren in the morning, returning by
another pass a little higher up the valley. Wc
had a very fine view from the top of the snowy
ranges beyond the Jung Frau, and we passed
several very fine waterfalls.
fine waterfalls. We drove to Inter-
208
Journal of the
laken in the evening. It is situated betwee
the lakes of Brienz and Thun. For the last
week we have been travelling through mountains
and mountain passes of great size. The best
way to give some idea of it to the people of
Gondal is to suppose the whole of Kattywar
covered with mountains about thrice the size of
the Girnar after the monsoon, with their peaks
all tipped with snow. The Girnar, however, is
full of variety of verdure, and therefore more
beautiful than the Swiss mountains, which are
covered with the same sort of vegetation. It
rained heavily soon after we got into Inter-
laken. I enjoyed the ride very much, although
the horses were slow and wretched, for at any
rate it was much better than travelling by train,
which was anything but pleasant.
28th September.
We walked down to the edge of the lake of
Brienz after breakfast, and sat down there for a
little while. The water is of an ivy green
colour, and all the environs of the lake are very
picturesque. It is enclosed by lofty rocks and
mountains. We bought some photographs on
Chief of Gondal.
209
our way through the town, which consists
almost entirely of hotels and shops. These are
built mainly of wood. I have been surprised
on our way through Switzerland not to have
seen more private houses of the better sort any-
where. We left for Thun at about 1 o'clock,
crossing the lake in a small steamer, which
stopped at two or three small places on the
way. I must not omit to mention here that
before getting into the steamer we had to go
by train a short distance, which is very inconve-
nient. The view got from the carriage at Thun
was the best I have ever seen. Thun is a
pretty place situated under the lee of a moun-
tain covered with fir woods. We went for a
drive in the afternoon past the Artillery barracks
and the arsenal. Some of the woods are very
beautiful. I have no doubt seen more beautiful
woods, glaciers, hills, &c., but the combined
effect of all these at this place was very pretty
indeed.
29th September.
We strolled through the town in the morning,
and bought a few specimens of Thun pottery.
23
210
Journal of the
We afterwards passed through the market, where
a large variety of fruits, including grapes and
peaches, apples and pears, plums and green-
gages and other common fruits, were being sold
in great abundance. At 12 o'clock we left for
Berne. In a little more than an hour's journey
by train we reached the capital of Switzerland.
It rained a little in the afternoon, but we got
out to see the Museum, which, like everything
else in Berne, except its scenery, its carving
work and the hotels, is very poor. Birds were
so badly stuffed that I could not imagine
anything worse. We afterwards walked through
a large portion of the town, which is very
curiously and quaintly built. It does not seem
to be a very large town for the capital of a
European country, but is well situated, and is
said to be growing fast. Its population does
not exceed that of Navanagar. But all the
capital towns in Europe cannot be so big as
London and Paris.
30th September, Sunday.
We sauntered about the public gardens
adjoining the hotel before starting for Geneva.
Chief of Gondal.
211
We
We had a good view from there of the river
and the new iron bridge which has lately been
constructed over it. It is a very elegant and
airy looking structure, crossing the river in two
spans, which afford abundant waterway. In
my opinion the bridge would look still more
beautiful if there were only one span.
left for Geneva a little before 11, and reached
Lausanne about 1 o'clock, when we had the
first view of the Lake of Geneva. A fresh
wind was blowing, and it looked just like the
sea. It looks still more beautiful a little further
on, with a foreground of trees and houses and
vineyards in the front of it, and the high moun-
tains beyond. I had no idea before that this
'clear, placid Leman' was so extensive a lake.
It is crescent-shaped, and the waters are of a
transparent blue hue. We reached Geneva
about 4 o'clock and found the Indian letters
and papers awaiting us. We went out for a
walk after dinner, but as it rained a little, and
being dusk, we could not see much of the shops
and the manufactures of the place; this we
must reserve for to-morrow.
212
Journal of the
1st October.
We walked out to see the city in the morn-
ing. Some of the shops were very tempting,
and I bought a nice watch for the Jemadar at
one of them. We went for an excursion to
Versoix by steamer in the afternoon, walking
back along the borders of the lake. The dis-
tant views of the Alps across the lake were very
fine, but the top of Mont Blanc was obscured
by clouds. We went to the theatre in the
evening to see "Les Huguenots." After the
grand performances we have seen in Paris and
elsewhere it did not seem to us to be good. And
the reason is obvious; for words of quality
have only relative values. We call a thing
'best' as long as we do not find one better than
it. If we come to know of a thing still better,
the former ceases to be the best. This rule is
carried to an infinite extent, both upwards and
downwards. It appears to be the most salutary
principle in Nature. Without this ever-running
succession of ascending and descending scales
life would be a mere burden. If we call a man
great' in relation to somebody else, the latter
Chief of Gondal.
213
also occupies the same position of greatness in
the eye of one in the lower scale of life, and the
great man" is no better than the other man in
the eye of one in the higher scale of gradation.
A philosopher rightly says that "Every man is
rich if he looks downwards; the same man is
poor if he looks upwards." Such being the case,
there is no wonder if we did not much like the
performance, as we had seen better ones else-
where. The music at the theatre was rather
good.
2nd October.
We went to see a watch manufactory. It
requires very fine machinery to turn the tiny
wheels and other portions of a watch, and
most of the men have to work with magnifying
glasses to see what they are doing. The cost
of these small wheels and screws must be a hun-
dred times greater than their weight in the metal
of which they are made. This illustrates the
extent to which skilled labour can add to the
value of a thing. We saw some watches mark-
ing the months and days, and the phases of the
moon, besides striking the quarters and minutes,
214
Journal of the
and doing the ordinary duties of a watch. We
then paid a visit to a musical box manufactory.
This manufactory is more simple. The singing
birds are very clever, and one of them was very
good indeed. There was an immense variety
of things made to contain concealed music,
such as bottles, inkstands, dressing-cases and
other table ornaments. I bought a very pretty
statues.
box to take to India. In the afternoon we
went to see the Rathe Museum, which is very
poor indeed. It contains a few pictures and
We afterwards saw a panorama of
the evacuation of Switzerland by the French
in 1871. This was painted, but it is not so
admirably done as the panorama we saw at
Paris. We then went for a walk through the
environs of the town. It contains some large
buildings which I will not call very handsome,
but the numerous bridges over the river looked
well from a distance. The water is wonderfully
clear, and we can see the bottom everywhere
very distinctly. It serves the purpose of a
looking glass.
Chief of Gondal.
215
3rd October.
The steamer
We travelled from Geneva to Brigne to-day,
leaving by steamer at 9 o'clock.
called at all the principal places on the lake
(Geneva), which gave us excellent views of
them. I admired Lausanne and Chillon more
than any of them, and I saw the fir trees on the
heights above Chillon covered with snow for
the first time. From Bouveret, where we arrived
about 2-30, we travelled by train along the
Rhone valley, getting to Breig at 6-30. The
scenery on both sides was mountainous and in
some places very grand. It was rather cold
when we arrived, and to-morrow I expect it
will be colder still as we cross over the Alps.
I am surprised to notice that the electric tele-
graph extends to almost all the villages in
Switzerland, and that even the smallest hotels
are supplied with electric bells. I think the
latter are very simple and convenient, and I do
not think that any large house should be
without them. This small country excels
England in utilizing electricity. I think they
should extend the use of electricity in England.
?
216
Journal of the
4th October.
We started early in the morning, having a very
long journey by carriage before us over the Simp-
lon Pass to Domo d'Ossalo. Our coachman
was very jolly and facetious, and we passed over
the distance very easily. About half way up the
Pass we encountered a snowstorm, which thick-
ened as we advanced, until it became almost
blinding and lay deep on the road. It was very
cold indeed near the top of the Pass, and icicles
were hanging from the banks and from the sides
of the small rivulets. All the trees and bushes.
were coated with snow and looked very beautiful.
The wind was too cold to be agreeable, but
still I was glad to have the opportunity of see-
ing such a spectacle. By the time we got to a
little village where we had luncheon, the snow
luckily cleared off, and we had splendid views
of the scenery all the rest of the way, till it was
too dark to see far. It is useless to attempt to
describe it. It simply must be seen to be
understood and appreciated. A little more
snow might have stopped us altogether, but as
it happened there was only enough to make fun
Chief of Gondal.
217
of it, and we snow-balled each other, and made
merry all the way. We got in very late, and were
only too glad to get a hot dinner, and to go to
bed to warm ourselves after writing some letters.
5th October.
We had a pleasant and easy drive to-day from
Domo d'Ossala to Baveno, arriving at the latter
place in time to go for a row upon the lake
before dinner. The lake is very picturesque,
and the town of Pallinza on the opposite side
of it, with the snow mountain behind, makes a
very good picture. The sunset added greatly
to the beauty of the scene. The lake owes
much of its beauty to the small islands that
besprinkle it. I am wondering whether we have
yet to see anything more beautiful in Europe.
I already notice a great difference in the ap-
pearance of the country and in the Italians; the
latter are much taller and darker and more hand-
some than the men we have seen;-they also
appear to have more to say for themselves. The
Italian vineyards are prettier than those near
Geneva, and I saw a great many Spanish chestnut
trees and mulberry trees for the first time to-day.
27
218
Journal of the
6th October.
By some mistake we travelled to-day by a
different route to that intended, going the
whole length of Maggiore lake to Luiho and
then by coach to Porto Tresan, instead of going
from Laveno to Porto. I think this was a for-
tunate mistake, for we saw a great deal of beau-
tiful scenery on the way. From Porto Tresan
we travelled the whole length of the lake Luzano
by steamer, touching at all the villages upon the
way. These villages are scattered along the
little bays and indentations of the lake, and all
look very picturesque. All these lakes are
locked in by mountains, and ranges of moun-
tains still higher, with snow upon them, appear
behind these, so that the whole effect is very
beautiful. We reached Menazzio at 8 o'clock,
where we propose to rest for two days.
7th October.
We walked along the lake to Candinaffia after
breakfast, and visited the Villa Carlotta there,
where we saw some beautiful statuary. The
statues were good but were out of proportion.
Julius Cæsar's head was not at all like the pic-
Chief of Gondal.
219
tures I have seen of him. We afterwards
strolled about the grounds. After luncheon
we steamed across the lake to Bellagio, where
we went for a pleasant walk over the hills,
returning by boat to Menaggio by dinner time.
This lake, like the others, is extremely pretty
and enjoyable. As we are on the border-ground
of Italy it is a convenient place to say good-bye
to Switzerland. It is perhaps the most moun-
tainous country in Europe. It is therefore the
best place for those tourists who are lovers of
'the sublime and the beautiful.' A great part
of the surface consists of lakes, glaciers and
rocks of various heights. I think there are few
countries in the world which contain so many
lakes within easy reach of one another. These
lakes are all very deep and navigable, and they
look beautiful with their deep blue colour. The
products of the country seem to be chiefly
pastoral. The inhabitants lay by great stores of
grass, and the fields are mown like lawns, even
high up the mountains. We saw no crops to
speak of, except potatoes; but we met a great
many people carrying loads of cheese to the
220
Journal of the
market. The people generally seem merry and
happy, and they live in very pretty cottages
scattered about all over the hill-sides, which
adds greatly to the beauty of the mountains.
The cottages are almost all made of wood,
which gives them a picturesque appearance.
The people don't seem to observe Sundays so
strictly as the Englishmen. This is observable,
more or less, all over the Continent, for public
places and entertainments are not only open on
Sundays as on all other week-days, but all are
admitted free of charge on Sundays. England,
where Sundays are observed perhaps more
scrupulously than anywhere else, looks horrible
on those days. All public business is suspended,
and all shops and places of public entertainment
are shut up. In some houses even boys are
deprived of their toys on Sundays, which day
appears to them very dull and tedious. The
Government is carried on by a Federal Re-
public, consisting of two councils, the members
of which are elected by the people. I cannot
persuade myself to believe that this form of
government is the best. A Republic, by the
Chief of Gondal.
221
(
very nature of things, is incapable of evoking that
sincere and healthy spirit of loyalty from the
inmost recesses of the people's hearts which a
born and anointed' king can do. And loyalty
is the first principle on which the stability of a
government is based.I am afraid, therefore,
that those votaries of Liberty, equality, and
fraternity,' who are carried astray by the dis-
loyal wind of republicanism, will have to revert
to the old form after bitter experience. Before
leaving this country of the lakes, I must say
that I have enjoyed my wanderings over its hills
and dales very much.
8th October.
We took a boat and rowed ourselves towards
the eastern end of the lake to a place called
Ressonier, where we landed and went for
a stroll amongst the Spanish chestnut trees.
They were covered with fruits, which looked
very pretty, and we ate some and found them
nice. We rode back to Menaggio in time to
catch the afternoon steamer for Como, where
we arrived about 6-30 after a delightful voyage.
I have been much struck with the beauty of
V
222
Journal of the
the lemon trees in the Italian gardens, which
grow over trellis work like vines. I should
like to introduce them, with some other
European trees and plants, into Gondal. Mrs.
Blomfield and her sister, who had travelled
with us from Geneva, left us at Menaggio. I
remember Dr. and Mrs. Blomfield in India very
well, and was glad to meet her again. We
passed a great many villages when nearing
Como, and this end of the lake appears to be
much more thickly populated than any other
lake I have yet visited.
9th October.
Miss Hancock and her cousin left us to-day
for England. We left Como ourselves soon
afterwards for Milan, where we arrived about
2 o'clock, and we spent the afternoon in looking
at the Cathedral. It is, I hear, the largest
cathedral in Italy, and displays all the richness
and grandeur of Gothic architecture. It has
more than a hundred pinnacles and several
thousand statues. We ascended the top of the
Cathedral in order to see the beautiful carving
of the figures at the top of the pinnacles more
Chief of Gondal.
223
distinctly. They are very beautiful, and the
whole edifice being built of white marble has an
imposing effect. I admire it by far the most
of all the churches I have seen, excepting
perhaps the Cologne Cathedral, which is supe-
rior to this in a few respects, though inferior
to it in many. We afterwards went for a drive,
and after dinner visited the Grand Arcade,
which was nicely illuminated, and looked at all
the very elegantly arranged shops. Amongst
the fruits in the shops I was surprised to see
chillies and capsicums, and Cape gooseberries
and Bengans.' I have also observed Indian
corn in the fields, which shows that the climate is
warm enough to grow most Indian products.
10th October.
C
We went for a drive round Milan in the
morning and visited the theatre, which is very
handsome and commodious. It was under
repairs when we saw it. It has six tiers of
boxes all round, each tier holding thirty-two
boxes. The house can accommodate 12,000
spectators in all. Milan seems to be a very
flourishing city. Some of the pictures I have
224
Fournal of the
seen at the Amrosiane were superb, and the
town is noted for its excellent sculpture. It is
an old city of historic fame, and I liked it very
much for the cleanliness of its streets and the
good order in which they are kept. We left
for Venice about 2 o'clock. Excepting the
Lake of Garda between Brescia and Verona,
there was nothing particular to note by the way,
and it was dark when we arrived at Venice.
11th October.
We went to see the Doge's Palace in the
morning. It is full of historical pictures, which
possess little interest for me; in fact, there was
nothing admirable in the palace. One hall was
good. I saw a big picture here, which occupied
the whole breadth of the room. The artist is
said to have taken eight years to do it. We
afterwards looked at the shops, and in the after-
noon we went to see the Armenian monastery,
where they showed me a prayer book printed
in thirty-six languages, of which Gujarati was
not one. In the evening we strolled about
watching the gondolas pass to and fro in the
moonlight. For Venice is a strange place. It
Chief of Gondal.
225
is built on a cluster of islands in shallow salt
water, before the mouth of a small river; so
almost all the streets are waterways, and people
go about in boats, or gondolas as they call them,
instead of cabs and omnibuses. Communica-
tion by walking or riding there is none, except
on an island. It was very pleasant to see people
moving about for business in this strange fashion.
I am anxious to see the town at leisure.
12th October.
We first went to see the church of St. Mark.
The ceilings and walls are elaborately decorated
with mosaic work. The effect is not so good
as that of painting, and the labour, therefore,
appears to me to be a great waste of time.
The marble floors are cracking and sinking in
every direction, from being built upon such a
bad foundation. The whole of Venice, as I
have already stated, is built over mud flats. We
afterwards ascended the monument just outside
the church, from which we had a good bird's-
eye view of the place, which is not so extensive
as I thought it was. We next visited the pic-
ture gallery and the mosaic and glass manufac-
28
226
Journal of the
tories. The mosaic work is simple and uninter-
esting. The glass work is similar to that we saw
at Glasgow, excepting the manufacture of beads,
which was very interesting. For making small
beads the molten glass with a hollow in it is run
out into long lengths, which retain a cylindrical
form. These are then chopped into small
pieces, which are mixed with a composition of
fireclay to preserve the holes, and are again
placed in the furnace inside iron drums where
they are rolled down. The fire-clay is after-
wards shaken out of them, and they are then ready
for the market. We afterwards went to see the
public garden, which is rather a poor place.
13th October.
We walked through some of the streets of
Venice, and bought a few photographs before
starting for Florence. I am really charmed
with the remarkable situation of Venice. As I
was pretty well acquainted with 'The Mer-
chant of Venice,' as introduced to me by the
great dramatist, I was much interested in this
famous city. The streets are paved with slabs,
but they are extremely narrow, only three or
Chief of Gondal.
227
four feet wide. But there is a labyrinth of ca-
nals all over the city, which are the best means
of internal communication. The water smells.
horribly in the smaller streets, and one would
think the place must be most unhealthy, but
fortunately it is not so. Some influence or other
neutralises the effect of filthy drainage. It is
an ancient city of historic renown, and has
passed through the hands of many masters.
In the Middle Ages it was supposed to be the
most thriving town in Europe. But cities, like
individuals, have vicissitudes to undergo when
their turns come, and so with her diminished
power her commerce and manufactures have also
diminished, and her only greatness now lies in the
memory of her part history. Though once it was
"The pleasant place of all festivity,
The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy,
Of joy the sojourn, and of wealth the mart,"
the same city now
"Sinks, like a sea-weed, into whence she rose !''
We arrived at Florence soon after dark. We
were much troubled with mosquitos, which are
a great nuisance at Venice.
228
Journal of the
14th October, Sunday.
We began the day by visiting the Royal
Palace and the galleries of ancient and modern
pictures. I like the latter much better than the
old biblical and mythological pictures, of which
I have seen so many. We afterwards drove
round the hills above the town, from whence we
had a fine view of the whole place. It is very
prettily situated, and surrounded by undulating
gound covered with handsome villas. In the
afternoon we drove to see the spot where the
body of the poor Raja of Kolapore was burnt. A
handsome monument has been put up there to
his memory, of which we bought a picture. We
walked back along the banks of the river to the
place where the band was playing in the park.
A great many people were collected there;
amongst them was an American with a sixteen-
in-hand coach by way of novelty. Some of the
horses were handsome, but they were not all
equally so, which spoilt the general appearance
of the team. The streets of Florence are ex-
ceedingly well kept, and I noticed the same at
Milan. The roads just outside the town are lined
Chief of Gondal.
229
with olive trees, and all the hills in the vicinity are
covered with them. As the warm climate
seems to suit them, I think they would be good
trees to grow in India.
15th October.
We left the birth-place of Dante at 8-30 for
Rome, and got there after eight hours' journey,
in time to go for a little walk through the streets.
before dinner. We went for a drive by moon-
light afterwards, and saw some of the principal
buildings, which look very handsome, but we
shall have a better view of them to-morrow. We
passed through a great deal of pasture land on
our way from Florence, where we saw large herds
of horses running almost wild. They looked
rather under-sized and much uncared-for. The
oxen were much finer-looking and more hand-
some.
16th October.
We visited the Vatican and St. Peter's Church
in the morning, in company with Father Mori, a
Roman Catholic priest, whose acquaintance we
were fortunate enough to make in the train. He
is well acquainted with all the beauties of the
£30
Journal of the
place, and explained them very carefully to us.
He also introduced us to Cardinal Jacobini,
who received us very graciously. The Vatican
is full of old paintings, which I did not much ap-
preciate. We passed through miles of statuary,
of which I admired some of the modern speci-
mens very much. The size of St. Peter's Church
astonished me above everything. It is almost
impossible to get an idea of its immensity,
unless one is told of the actual dimensions of
the roof and pillars. It covers an area of eight
English acres, and is said to have cost ten crores
of rupees.
It is a very magnificent building,
and in point of size and beauty I have not seen
a better church anywhere The mosaic pic-
tures here are far superior to those we saw
in Venice. We are to visit the place again
to-morrow, to examine it more thoroughly. In
the evening we drove round by Monte Pincio
and the Villa Borghese, a pleasant sort of park,
where the band plays, and whence there is a
fine view of the town.
17th October.
We started early to-day to visit the Pope's
Chief of Gondal.
231
garden. Some of it is very pretty, and I ad-
mired the high walls of evergreens, and some
of the fountains; but the place has altogether
too much of the aspect of a prison to be very
charming. From thence we went to the Sacristy
to see the treasures of St. Peter's Church.
These consist of costly robes and jewelled
church ornaments, which reminded me of those
used in our own temples in India. We next
ascended the dome of St. Peter's. The ball at
the top, which we entered, is more than four
hundred feet high from the ground. It is ex-
tremely hot here, and, in my opinion, they ought
to make some arrangement for ventilation.
From this place we had a splendid view of
Rome and of the interior of the church. So
many churches are visible from there that Rome
may aptly be called the Benares of Italy. We
went to see the Pantheon Church on our way
home, and afterwards to see the old Roman
Capital, the Forum, the Tarpean Rock, the
Arc of Constantine, the ancient Sewers and the
Colosseum, amongst many other antiquities, of
which Father Mori gave us short descriptions.
232
Journal of the
18th October.
We visited the Quirinal Palace and the Royal
stables to-day before starting on an expedition.
to Frascato and Albano. We saw some nice.
statues in the Palace. I admired one of an
eagle killing a snake, and another of a woman
feeding a child with grapes, very much. The
statues are, I should think, not well arranged.
Doorways are not the most convenient places
for them. The stables are full of English and
Italian horses, of which the latter were of much
larger size than any I see about the streets.
All the horses are of a bay colour, excepting one
pair of iron greys for the king's private driving.
We passed a pleasant afternoon driving from
Frascato to Albano. The Albano Lake is very
curiously embossed in deep hills, and looks deep
and gloomy but too regular. We drove home
along a portion of the Appian way, and passed
many other places noted in Roman history. The
city of Rome -'the Niobe of nations' - has
gone through many vicissitudes of fortune, and
the signs of her past greatness are discernible
everywhere.
Chief of Gondal.
233
19th October.
We spent to-day at Tivoli, visiting all the
grottoes and cascades before luncheon, and the
ruins of the Adrian villa in the afternoon. The
cascades are very beautiful, although artificially
made, in the first instance, by diverting the river
from its proper course. The water has also
made some subterraneous passages for itself,
which are very curious. The ruins of the old
Roman Palaces are very interesting. They
tell us in mute eloquence the story of their past
grandeur, and remind the world that,
"Time lays his hands
On pyramids of brass and ruins quite
What all the fond artificers did think
Immortal workmanship."
20th October.
I did not do much in the morning, but only
submitted myself to the operation of a hair-
cutter. In the afternoon we drove out to see the
church of San Paulo, built upon the site of the
old Basilican. This church looks quite unpre-
tentious from the outside, but its interior is very
magnificent. Its style is also different from
29
234
Journal of the
that of any of the other churches we have seen.
The interiors of all the churches I have seen are in
the form of a cross; but this church was not so.
It contains five aisles of lofty granite pillars.
The roof is gorgeously decorated, and the mar-
ble walls are covered with splendid pictures of
biblical events. There are also some fine statues
of the Apostles, and the whole place is altoge-
ther very imposing. It must be very cool in hot
weather, and it appears to me to be built more
in accordance with Indian than European taste.
We afterwards walked through a part of the
city, and bought a few photographs.
21st October.
I
I was accorded an interview with His Holiness
the Pope at 11 o'clock this afternoon. He is a
most benign-looking old gentleman, and he made
many kind inquiries about Gondal and my tour
in Europe. I am glad we had the honour of
being received with such marked favour by the
Head of all the Catholics. On our way back
we visited the Picture Gallery and statues in the
Capital. The statues of the dying Gladiator,
or the Chief, as the guide calls it, and of the
Chief of Gondal.
235
Capitoline Venus were pointed out to me, and I
was much struck with them; in fact, I was very
much pleased with all I saw in Rome. The
city has pleasant associations attached to it. It
is always a very interesting thing to see a place
which once occupied the highest rank in the
annals of a continent. The climate of the
place is salubrious, and the scenery near the
'Yellow Tiber' which divides the town is beau-
tiful. In the evening we started for Naples, and
got there about 11 o'clock. We saw the burning
crater of Vesuvius in the distance. We propose
to visit it to-morrow.
22nd October.
We ascended Vesuvius after rather a long but
interesting drive through the busiest parts of
Naples. We went up by the Funicular railway,
which is worked by wire ropes attached to a
stationary engine. It is a very steep ascent,
and I do not suppose any simpler kind of lift
can be invented. From the station to the sum-
mit we walked across the old crater to a new one,
and went near enough to see the red hot lava
thrown out close to our feet. The guides thrust
236
Journal of the
copper coins into it and gave them back to us
embedded in small pieces. It was rather alarm-
ing to stand within reach of such a red-hot
shower, and we were not sorry to get away
again from the sulphurous fumes around us.
It is altogether a wonderful scene to witness,
and I can imagine that it must be very terrible
at times of great eruptions. I consider myself
fortunate in having seen a volcano in action.
I was also fortunate enough to see a thunder-
storm crossing the Bay of Naples as we went
down. It eventually lifted itself just like a veil
from the surface of the water and looked very
beautiful, though it must have proved a severe
trial to the mariners in that quarter. The
masses of lava in the ravines between hills look
like iron-bound glaciers, and present a strange
likeness and contrast to the snow glaciers we
have lately seen in Switzerland. The drive
home was very pleasant, and we got back in
good time for dinner.
23rd October.
We visited the National Museum in the
morning, where we saw a great many curiosities
Chief of Gondal.
237
from Pompeii, and some other beautiful things.
We afterwards drove to Cook's Office to order
some young lemon and olive trees, and the
seeds of some Italian vegetables, to be des-
patched to India. In the afternoon we drove
past Virgil's tomb to the Dog's Grotto and the
Grotto of Posilippo. The Dog's Grotto is a
very curious place, containing abundance of
carbonic acid gas at the bottom of it. A small~
dog was led into it and kept there for half a
minute, and immediately became asphyxiated,
but soon recovered in the open air. I am inclined
to call this a cruel experiment. Lighted torches
lowered into it immediately went out, and the
odd part of it is that the gas is warm. The
guides say that is because it is of volcanic origin,
and they declare that the cave is somehow
connected with Mount Vesuvius. The drive
past the Grotto Posilippo gives one a fine view
of the N. W. Bay of Naples towards Ischia.
24th October.
We started by train after breakfast to Castilla
Mari, whence we drove to Sorrento, a pretty
drive skirting the hills along the edge of the
238
Journal of the
coast. The hills are covered with groves of
olive and orange trees, and many villas are
gracefully scattered amongst them. We passed
the villages of Vico and Ineto. The fishing
boats were very pretty in the little bays below us,
and in the summer time the scene must be very
bright and gorgeous. We rested for a couple of
hours at Sorrento, and then returned to Naples
across the Bay by steamer. We noticed some
smoke issuing from the southern slopes of Vesu-
vius, where a small stream of lava is said to be
coming out. We hope to get a nearer view of
it from Pompeii.
25th October.
We occupied to-day in exploring the ruins of
Pompeii in company with Mr. Clarke, a Panjab
Civilian, who had been there before, and was
thus able to show us everything of importance.
This ancient city, as everybody knows, was buried
by an eruption of Vesuvius in the year 79.
Its ruins were excavated in 1755. It was very
interesting to visit a city of the dead, which is
silently telling its own history. The discovered
objects now open for inspection are interesting.
Chief of Gondal.
239
Some of their old customs must have been very
like those of India. These ruins of a once flour-
ishing town could not but produce very pensive.
thoughts in my mind for the moment. We
bought a few photographs of the principal
remains, and got home soon after dark, after
rather a tedious drive.
26th October.
We visited the Blue Grotto at Capri to-day.
The grotto was pretty good, but it was not so
beautiful as I had expected, and the cloudy wea-
ther detracted much from its beauty. In my
opinion it was a mere waste of time, as it took
us a whole day in going and returning, with little
to amuse us. It would have been better had we
stayed at Capri, and seen something more of the
island, which is said to be very pretty. In the
evening we went to see a Circus. Part of the
performance was good, but the rest was stupid
and commonplace. As I have seen much of
the same kind much better done before, I did
not derive any pleasure from it. I must, how-
ever, note here, that the athlete had the best
muscular arms I ever saw.
240
Journal of the
27th October.
We walked down to Sommer's Fine Art Gallery
to buy some photographs.
not worthy of the name.
The Art Gallery is
There was nothing
attractive in it, and the photographs formed the
worst part of it. We afterwards went up the
Toledo, the largest street in Naples, to make a few
purchases in Europe before starting to-night for
Brindisi. Naples appears to be a very extensive
and populous city. The houses are very large
in size, but not elegant in appearance. It is a
curious town, no doubt, and is well worth visiting.
But I did not like it. It is very dirty. The
Royal Palaces on the heights above the town
command a good view: and it was from one of
these that we took a farewell view of the place.
We left Naples after dinner at 9 P. M. for Brin-
disi.
28th October.
We reached Bari on our way to Brindisi at
II o'clock, and having four hours to wait there,
we started out after breakfast to see the town.
There is a fine new harbour on the northern side,
which promises to make the town a flourishing
Chief of Gondal.
241
one before long. Bari scems to be an ancient
town, but I found it a very dirty and uninterest-
ing place. It has doubled itself quite lately, and
the new part of the town is a great contrast to
the old. We reached Brindisi in time for dinner
on board the Tanjore at 7 o'clock. The journey
from Naples to Brindisi was very long and
tedious. Before leaving Italy I must note that
I have enjoyed a delightful climate in all of its
towns I visited. In whatever part of the coun-
try I went, I could not but echo the familiar lines
of Goldsmith. His remarks are quite appro-
priate when he sings-
"Could Nature's bounty satisfy the breast
The sons of Italy were surely blest.
Whatever fruits in different climes are found,
That proudly risc, or humbly court the ground;
Whatever blooms in torrid tracts appear,
Whose bright succession decks the varied year;
Whatever sweets salute the northern sky
With vernal lives, that blossom but to die;
These here disporting, own the kindred soil,
Nor ask luxuriance from the planter's toil;
While sea-born gales their gelid wings expand,
To winnow fragrance round the smiling land."
30
242
Journal of the
5th November.
We reached Port Said after a very pleasant
but uneventful journey. This is the point at
which the irregular circle of my European voyage
meets. For, some five months back, I started
in a different direction towards Gibraltar, and
I come back to the same place with a stock of
information which I did not possess before. It
is impossible to express in words all that I have
seen and learnt during this period, and it is not
necessary to add that the preceding pages give
only a faint reflection of what is inscribed on my
heart's tablet. Perhaps this would be the most
convenient place whence to take a brief survey
of my tour. But as there is nothing new to see,
and as we have to tread on the same watery
ground trodden before, I should like to wait till
I reach Bombay.

9th November.
Our journey from the Port to Aden and from
thence to Bombay was rather tedious and unin-
teresting.
However fond I am of a sea voyage)
I must confess that its charm lasts only for a
few days. Like everything else under the sun
Chief of Gondal.
243
it loses its novelty in course of time, and presents
to us a tiresome monotony which is anything
but delightful. We have to behold the same
watery plain, to hear the same billowy song, to
put up with the same grating sound of the en-
gine, and to confine ourselves in the same place.
Though ample arrangements are made on board
the steamers for the comfort of the passengers,
we cannot but feel sometimes that we are
prisoners for the time being. We feel our-
selves handicapped on all sides. We feel
'conscious of being cast loose from the secure
anchorage of settled life and sent adrift upon a
doubtful world.' Such being the case, it was
not surprising if I longed to catch a glance of
the distant Bombay shores, which were lost in
the mists of the horizon. As we come nearer
we find Bombay rising up from the sea. I leave
the element of water, and land on a more solid
one. I am greeted with familiar faces and return
home with fulness of heart. Ah, with what rapid
strides Time is travelling! The six months
of my tour have passed away like a thought
of the mind, and I feel as if I had left home
244
Journal of the
only yesterday. This period, which had been
once a distant and uncertain future before me,
became a living present, which again is now lost.
in the irrevocable past. The whole thing has
now passed like a felicitous dream, and the
different scenes I have seen in Europe are now
fleeting before my mental eye like the figures
represented on the screen by the magic lantern.
I see magnificent buildings and towering churches
talking with the skies, though, in point of archi-
tectural beauty, it will be long before they can
beat India. I notice with interest that the chief
characteristic of the people of Europe is general
activity in every department of life. There are
black sheep in every fold, but, as a general rule,
few people in Europe like to eat the bread of
idleness. Everybody tries to earn his mainten-
ance by honest work, to which he is attached
with a fondness well worth imitating. They
are strong in physique, and consequently have
great courage and enterprise, which tend to
make a nation great. Invention is the order of
the day. All brains are busily engaged in finding
out new contrivances to facilitate human work.
Chief of Gondal.
245
!
The popular instinct appears to be to discover
means of increasing animal comforts. This is
a never-ending task, for it is impossible to draw a
line beyond which worldly happiness cannot go.
Like fire, the more our wants are fed, the more
food they require for consumption.] My country-
men are accustomed to think less of the present
life, and more of the life to come, in which they
have an unshaken belief, and hence it is that
they are not progressive in the modern sense of
the word. The Europeans are more worldly and
political, the Hindus are more retired and reli-
gious. Comparatively speaking, the sun of
knowledge seems to have risen but recently on
the continent of Europe (Greece and Rome may
be considered as exceptions), and the people
are intoxicated with intense pleasures derived
from the new light, and are making a jubilee of
it. In India, the sun not only rose some thou-
sands of years back, but shone in its full splen-
dour for a very long time till it set, and has
dawned again with its lustre beautifully reflected
from the West. This does not excite our peo-
ple much, for the knowledge is not new to them.
246
Journal of the
The only thing desirable is that they should
shake off their slumber as the sun has gone
pretty high. They should cultivate their facul-
ties, which are lying dormant for want of exer-
tion. In Europe out of ten men that I met, nine.
were educated. In India the proportion is quite
This is much to be regretted. It is
the reverse.
This is much to be
a pity that education, which
"Forms the common mind;
Just as the twig is bent, the tree's inclined,"
is at a discount in the very country which was
once the cradle of all branches of learning.
[Education is a chief factor in the elevation of
a nation, and it should be acknowledged with
gratitude that this principle is honestly worked
upon by the British Government with regard to
their Indian possessions. But the reason why
the system does not answer so well as it should,
is that they are putting a wrong cap on a wrong
head. The method of imparting education
obtaining in Europe cannot be successfully
adapted to this country, where the circum-
stances are different. Who does not know that
in our public schools at present utility and
Chief of Gondal.
247
simplicity are sacrificed to variety and com-
plexity? A boy of a very tender age is coached
in too many subjects, most of which are to
be of no practical use to him in maturer years.
It is better to know a good deal of one thing
than a little of everything. Subjects which
needlessly tax the energies of the little boys
should be done away with. In clementary
classes, reading, writing and arithmetic should
receive especial attention. Reading lessons.
should contain useful information, and short
moral precepts in the form of aphorisms.
These, later on, the boys should be required to
commit to memory. For those impressions.
which one receives in infancy are always en-
during. The full explanation of the maxims.
might be reserved till the faculties of the
boy are developed. The present series of✔
school-books, both English and Gujarati, are, in
my opinion, ill-adapted to the wants and re-
quirements of the Indian student.")
My tour has convinced me that we are living
in the age of science. Europe is making great
advances in the field of science. It abounds in
248
Journal of the
numerous technical schools and colleges of
science, which enable thousands of young men to
take independent stations in life. It is all the
more essential that India should be overspread
with such institutions. In India we have, from
time immemorial, hereditary classes of artizans,
who acquire their professional knowledge from
father to son.
No doubt they are moving in
the same groove, but then this very circum-
stance gives them a certain knack in their trade.
Our schoolmasters who are abroad have tempt-
ed away the sons of the artizan classes from
their legitimate duties, stuffed their brains with
things which concerned them not, and cast them
adrift in the world without offering them any
other alternative. This is the beginning of the
decline and fall of the indigenous arts and in-
dustries of the country. This will look strange,
but it nevertheless is a fact. All classes, from
the highest to the lowest, attend schools, im-
bibe a sort of hatred and disgust for their re-
spective professions, and aspire to a clerkship,
school-mastership, or any other-ship under the
Government. Now, if mechanical schools and
Chief of Gondal.
249
schools of other branches of science be estab-
lished at important places, the artizans will have
ample scope to combine their home-got know-
ledge with the improved appliances of the West,
and they will be in a position to manufac-
ture many things in India for which we have
to depend entirely upon foreign supplies, and
thereby make the country once more flourish-
ing. The teaching of the arts and sciences
should be conveyed through the medium of the
vernaculars, so that it may be intelligible to
all. It may be parenthetically noted here that
some of the important secrets of the arts and
sciences need not be disclosed freely and indis-
criminately to all persons. Care should be taken
to impart instruction to those only who prove
by their conduct and assurance worthy of the
same. In India it is a time-honoured fashion
to take this prudential course. Important truths
of science, arts, religion and philosophy are
not made known until the teacher is satisfi-
ed, after putting his pupil on a sufficiently long
test, that the latter is every way fit and will not
abuse the knowledge confided to him. The
31
L
250
Journal of the
people of Europe, as a rule, are energetic, enter-
prising and fit for active work; my countrymen,
on the other hand, are, broadly speaking, very
quiet, retired, and fit for meditation. The for-
mer relies on the power of action, the latter, in
the power of fate:
of fate: "forward" is the watchword
of the former; "as you were" is that of the
latter. It is needless to carry on the contrast
any further; for my deductions must have
been drawn from premises that have but imper-
fectly come under the observations of a hasty
tourist like myself. Suffice it to say, that my
tour has been both pleasant and instructive to
me. The greatest satisfaction it has afforded
to me is that it has enabled me to see that
small and interesting country which is lying
six thousand miles off, and holds in her hand
the future destiny of the vast Indian conti-
nent. May young Britannia extend her hand
of fellowship to the aged dame Ind, who is now
in her second childhood, and who will requite
the love by whispering into the ears of her
young friend and mistress words of wisdom
and experience; may the interest of the two
Chief of Gondal.
251
countries blend together; may their friendship
thicken into kinship; may their hearts beat in
unison for the mutual benefit of both; and
may they deserve and obtain the blessings of
Providence.
BOMBAY PRINTED AT THE EDUCATION SOCIETY'S PRESS, BYCUlla.
>
श्री
:

UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 03189 5140
ぐらい
​GL
17 19
13
ME
DO NOT REMOVE
OR
MUTILATE CARDS