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Duncan & A Havre de Gº ſº \;|º & : º & - 1: & *//// Zº -- º Bridgetº Winel - - * r 㺠Pº: * Mºy's 1A" '0- & º goºla Millville Mº'" e - wº Townsend * - Bay Si §e | ALT, NRRelº sº; ſ ñº MºWT tº Nºssº - º - - - - **oº º º -ºlº agayºn, &^Seaville NIE - ** --- W M y - : ºf Y *- † | \Laredo Relay Station §§ ºf YN. IE N GILAND & - - - - - ºr * Annapolis Jct. & } - - O cy Ślodenton \\ º & 9 & J.'sſ" º \ . N. Bºžie. t ENI.A.R. ºna y/ \ . GED SCALE <> º * - ºshi & Harº º ſº º: d 1. Tewes exandrº Easton C \ . º -sºº'sºays-º)— | Georgetown. #}opular flesorts, A N D H O W T O R E A C H T H E M. º º: º: º - º - POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. COMBINING A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PRINCIPAL SUMMER RETREATS IN THE UNITED STATES, AND THE ROUTES OF TRAVEL LEADING TO THEM. JBY JOHN Bºchelper, Jr. Author of “The Illustrated Towrists' Guideº “Gettysburg, What to see, and How to see it,” “The Isometrical Drawing of the Gettysburg Battlefield,” “Descriptive Rey to the Painting of Longstreet's Assault at Gettysburg,” Designer of the - Historical Paintings of the Battle of Gettysburg, Last Hours of Lincoln, &c. - :* ; #IIugtrately fig @me #umbren ant fiftgaſſigg &#ggb20tutg BY TIIE 13EST ENGRAVERS, MANY OF THEM FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY THE AUTHIOR. BOSTON : JOHN B. BACHELDER, PUBLISHER. 41–45 FRANKLIN STREET. (At Lee & Shepard's.) 1875. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by JOHN B. BACHELDER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. * : g . ** BOSTON : ELECTROTYPED AND PRINTED BY RAND, AVERY, & CO. PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION. EACH year adds to the popularity of summer travel. The vaca- tion fever returns annually with “the season,” and custom de- mands that every well-to-do family prepare for it. No class of society is exempt. The mechanic and merchant, the banker and clerk, the student and professional man, are alike affected by its seductive influences, and, in the pleasure it brings, seek that respite from the cares of life which exhausted nature requires. To know how to travel is a matter of great importance to the tourist. Many persons pass unheeding by the picturesque beauties of a pleasant route, expecting to find awaiting them at the end of their journey, the combined pleasures which others have described. In some instances the points to be visited are places of celebrity, but the route of approach lies through an uninteresting region. This is the case with many of our ocean watering-places. In others, as much pleasure may be derived em route as from the resort itself. This is particularly true of mountain travel, where every turn opens up new and interesting scenes. Where a single excursion is to be made for the season, it is a matter of importance for the tourist to select an objective point and a route of travel, the peculiarities of which are congenial to his tastes. Public resorts which may furnish abundant sources of pleasure to one person frequently present little of interest to an- other. While one would be satisfied with a single day at the sea- shore, another would never tire of watching the waves break upon a rock-bound coast. The waving forests, the rugged grandeur of the mountains, and the deepening mystery of the glens, which to many prove sources of great delight, for others have no attractions. Hence the importance of carefully choosing desirable “Popular Resorts, and Routes to Reach. Them.” 4 PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION. Of all the celebrated watering-places on the coast, the famous springs, or the frequented mountain-houses, no two are alike, 'yet each locality possesses an individual interest, and finds its pa- trons; and the routes which lead to them have their attractions, either in the safety and comforts afforded the traveller, or in the picturesque beauty of the region through which they pass. It is to lay this subject clearly before the public that these pages with their illustrations are presented ; thus enabling the tourist to choose in advance the character of Scene he would visit. The favorable reception of the two former editions of this work, and the universal request of patrons for its continuance, have determined the author to publish annually a volume devoted ex- clusively to the interests of travel, which shall give not only gen- eral information regarding the “Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them,” but furnish a standard medium through which proprietors or agents, who represent houses or routes, may describe or illus- trate the merits of their respective interests. The illustrated routes have been generally prepared from sketches and notes taken on the spot by the compiler of this volume; while the “item ’’ notices have either been written expressly for it, or compiled from the best published accounts. It should be distinctly understood that this volume is not, and does not claim to be, a Gwide-Book. It is rather a GAZETTEER OF PLEASURE TRAVEL ; and, although it may give much useful infor- mation, it is not intended to take the place of a guide. For the details of travel, the tourist is advised to secure a current number of the TRAVELLER’s OFFICIAL GUIDE,- or “Official Time Tables,” an abbreviation of it, if a more compact book is desired. The author here takes occasion to thank those who responded to his circular invitation for data. Brief descriptions of other re- sorts are requested for the next edition, the compilation of which has already been commenced. - * In view of the Centennial Anniversary at Philadelphia in 1876, special attention will be given to illustrated pleasure routes lead- ing from every section of the country to that city, and the imme- diate attention of persons interested in such routes is invited. THE AUTHOR. C O N T E N T S. Summer Recreation Pedestrianism Equestrianism Wagon Riding Camping Out. º Harbor and Coastwise Excursions Hints to Tourists Boston - - Mountains . e © ºf * New Hampshire Mountains. White Mountains . . Routes of Approach Franconia Mountains . PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 1. Boston, Comcord, and Montreal Railroad Stage Route from Plymouth to the Franconia M PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 2. Passumpsic and South-Eastern Railroad . . PLEASUIRE FOUTE NO. 3. Eastern Railroad To the Interior . . PLEASURE IROUTE NO. 4. Boston and Maine Railroad - Portland and Vicinity e -> ountains. Portland, Bangor, and Machias Steamboat Company Mount Desert - Up the Penobscot. - - - - PLEASURE ROUTE No. 5. Portland and Ogdensburg Railway . . e North Conway . . . . . e • . PAGE. 13 13 17 18 21 23 25 27 28 31 32 33 33 49 63 63 66 66 '70 73 73 7S 7S '79 80 80 S5 6 CONTENTS. - PAGE. PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 6. 92 Grand Trunk Railway • © º - o © e º • . 92 PLEASURE ROUTE NO, 7. 94 Maine Central Railway . e * e e * * e . 94 Eastern Provinces º e e - e o e • o . 96 PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 8. 97 Old Colony Railroad. e e e e º º . . . e . 97 Old Colony Steamboat Company . º e º e e e ... 105 PLEASURE Route NO. 9. 108 Excursion to Oak Bluffs and Katama . . . . . . . 108 - PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 10. - 119 Central Vermont Railroad. & e - & º • • e . .119 PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 11. 126 Shoro Linc . e • e º º e s - º e e . 126 PLEASURE RouTE No. 12. 131 Stonington Line . º - o g - e - e e e . 131 Middle States e º • . e e e - e e º . 133 New York City . e e e g © e e º . . . . 133 PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 13. 134 Up the Hudson . . & . . 134 Catskills. – Approach from Kingston Station . e e e . 137 { % { % “ Catskill “ * - g o º . 13 PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 14. . 142 Central Railroad of New Jersey, North Pennsylvania, Albany and Sus- quehanna, Rensselaer and Saratoga, and New York and Canada 2 Railroads • • • * * & 14 North Pennsylvania Railroad . o . . . e º º . 142 Pennsylvania Scenery . º º * e © e - • . 144 Central Railroad of New Jersey . . . . . . . . . 4. º . 145 Delaware and Hudson Canal Company’s Railroads . & © . 169 Saratoga Springs . e º º © e e o o o . 175 Lake George . e e º º º º e e o . ... 177 “ Champlain o o g e * - o e o . 178 New York to Long Branch e & o e • • g e ; 182 CONTENTS. PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 15. New York Central and Hudson River Railroad Black River Railroad * sº & Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railroad PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 16. Erie Railway . ſº e e g * - Atlantic and Great Western Railway . Philadelphia PLEASURE ROUTE No. 17. Philadelphia and Reading Railroad Long Branch - tº |PLEASURE IROUTE NO. 18. Cape May PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 19. Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore Railroad PLEASURE IROUTE NO. 20. Fortress Monroe . PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 21. Pennsylvania Railway IBranch Roads PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 22. Baltimore and Potomac and Northern Central Railways Southern States Virginia P.A.G.E. 193 . 115 . 195 . 196 204 . 204 . 210 . 211 214 . 214 . 231 232 . 232 233 . 233 239 , 239 Richmond PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 23. Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Passage of the Alleghany |PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 24. Atlantic Coast Line . e ge ſº • • º * dº PLEASURE ROUTE NO. 25. Piedmont Air Line 294 . 294 3 CONTENTS. . - PLEASURE ROUTE NO. Great Southern Mail Route PLEASURE ROUTE NO. Louisville and Great Southern Route Mammoth Cave - - Western States. |PLEASURE ROUTE NO. Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad Beyond Chicago - e PLEASURE RouTÉ No. Chicago and North-Western Railroad Wisconsin . . º º Chicago and St. Paul Line . Minnesota PLEASURE ROUTTF, NO. Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad PLEASURE RouTE No. Union and Central Pacific Railroads, Dakota . Colorado Montana, TJ tall Idaho California. . . 26. 27. 28. 29, 30. 31. PAGE. 301 . 301 308 º 30S . 309 º 314 315 . 315 . 318 320 . 320 340 . 340 . 340 . 340 . 341 . 344 . 345 List OF JLLu STRATIONS. PAGE. FRONTISPIECE, Popular Resorts . e e - º º g º º 2 Trout Fishing . . . -> & e - •. . . e e e - 14 Out-of-Door Life º We e e º º º & º g g º 16 Camp Stove . - e e e º - - - • * • * * 17 Camping Out . * º * & e º º º g e Pleasure (?) Travel in the Olden Time . - - - º s e - 22 Lake and Mountain Scenery . º - - - º º * º - 26 White Mountains : • . - e - - - º e s - 29 Lowell and Nashua Depot, T3oston º º - {- e g • - 34 Hooksett Falls, N.H. º e º e - * * * º & º - 36 Tilton, N.H. . º º e e º e º - e t º - 38 Laconia, N.H. . . º º º º º o - * * * º e 40 View near Lake Village, N.H. º º - - e e s * . 41 Weir's Landing, Lake Winnepesaukee, N.H. . - º g e - 42 Steamer “Lady of the Lake” . e º e º * º s º 44 Tagged Mountain, and Long Pond º - - e * sº * sº 45 Plymouth, N.H. - º . e º . : - * . e - 46 Pemigewasset House . . . * . . . • . . . 47 Livermore Falls, N.H. . . . • . . • º º - 48 Owl's Heatl and Moosilauke Mount, N.H. . & - c & tº e 50 Littleton, N.H. . . . . o . . º - º tº º º 52 Lancaster, N.H. . tº * . . º - . . . sº º º 54 Dethlehem Station, N.H. . . . - • . . . . . . - 56 Maplewood Hotel, N.H. . . & . . . '. • . º - 57 Twin Mountain House, N.H. . e . . . . . . e º - 58 Fabyan House, N.H. . . . . º º & º e © e 60 Ammonoosuc Falls, N.H. . . . º & e te o e - 61 Mount Washington Railway, N.H. . • • . e e e º 62 Boar's Head, N.H. . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Portland, Me. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Tallmouth House, Me. . . . . . . © e é e e 75 TJnited States Hotel, Me. . . . . . . . . . . . , 70 White Head Cliff, Portland Harbor . . . . e tº º º 77 Portland Light . º º e e e e - e a s” a - 79 Sebago Lake . e * o & e º © {º g & ſº & 81 10 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \ Conway Elms Mt. Kiarsarge, N.H. Diana's Baths, N.H. Silver Cascade, N.H. White Mountain Notch º Old Colony Railroad • - & Boat-House Landing, Newport, R. I. Coast Scene • g Trout, Pond Nantucket, Wharf Newport, R.I. . & - - Saloon, Old Colony Steamer . & º º º t Steamer “Bristol,” passing East-River Bridge, N.Y. Steamboat “Martha’s Vineyard,” passing Oak Bluffs Riding Out the Storm Sea-View House, Mass. Seaside Cottage e - Mattakeset Lodge, Mass. Yachting . º g º Sea-View Boulevard, Mass. Providence Depot, Boston Grand Central Depot, New York Harbor Scene, New York Fisherman's Cottage - - e Lehigh Valley, Mauch Chunk, Penn. Coal Wein . © * - º e Lehigh Gap e & Mauch Chunk, Penn. - • e - Mansion House, Mauch Chunk, Penn. • - - View from the Mansion House, Mauch Chunk, Penn. The Flagstaff Mount Pisgah Plane, Penn. Onoko Station, Penn. º Coal Breaker . e © Lehigh Valley, Penn. JProspect Rock, Penn. Cloud Point, Penn. Glen Thomas, Penn. - Solomon's Gap, Penn. . . . Lackawanna Valley House, Penn. º Nayaug Falls, Scranton Gorge, Penn. . . . Switchback Railroad, Moosic Highlands, Penn. . Jones Lake . . . . * * Wyoming House, Penn. . Cave House, N.Y. . e º º e - º Summer Life at North Mountain House, Penn. . Wild WOO(ls . . Ganoga Falls, Penn. 85 8ſ, 37 89 90 97 98 100 101 102 T 04: 106 107 108 110 111 113 114 115 117 126 129 131 141 144 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 156 157 159 160 161 162 1(54 165 16(; 167 168 172 183 185 Mountain Stream North Mountain View 187 188 190 LIST OF III, USTRATIONS. 1]. Forest Life º w t Thousand Island House, N.Y. Moonlight . & tº º * * : Falls Village Bridge, Penn. Columbia Bridge, Penn. . Schuylkill River, Penn. sº g Valley Forge, Penn. g tº g tº Schuylkill River, above Pottstown, Penn. Mount Carbon, Penn. . * Little Schuylkill River, Penn. Mahanoy Plane, Penn. Brookside, Penn. e e g g Herndon, Susquehanna River, Penn. Mainville Water Gap, Penn. . Catawissa, Penn. . e fº Marine View, - Coal Transport Strawberry Culture, Del. IPeach Gathering, Del. . tº g * Cristfield, Md. : Oyster Shipment, Del. Iłidley Station, Md. . g t e Residence of F. O. C. Darley, Esq., Md. Mount Ararat, Md. g & § |FIygeia Hotel, Va. Marine Wie W. º • . • Coatesville Bridge, Penn. & e Connecting Railroad Bridge, Penn. T3ryn Mawr, Penn. & g g International Exhibition Building, Penn. Fairmount Park, Penn. . Hestonville, Penn. Ardımore Station, Penn. . Juniata River, Penn. Logan House, Penn. Mountain House, Penn. . Washington, D.C. . Baltimore Tunnel, Md. Night Train e Susquehanna River . Harrisburg, Penn. Renova House, Penn. Dutchlman’s Run, Penn. . Empire Fall, N.Y. Rainbow Falls, N.Y. Hector Falls, N.Y. Watkins Glen, N.Y. Seneca Lake, N.Y. e TJniversity of Virginia . e tº e Earthworks on the Chickahominy, Va. Commissary Department Mountain Tunnel, Va. 192 199 203 212 214. 215 216 217 220 221 222 223 224. 227 228 230 233 234. 235 236 237 238 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 249 251 252 253 255 256 12 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONs. Rockbridge Alum Springs, Va. Griffith's Knob, Cowpasture River, Va. Falling Spring Falls, Va. is s º º Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs, W. Va. Start down the Greenbrier, W. Va. IRichmond Falls, New River, W. Va. Whitcomb's Bowlder, Va. . © • * Running New River Rapids, W. Va. Miller's Ferry, Va. . e s' * Charleston, W. Va. . Huntington, Ohio Storm, at Sea Green Lake, Wis. Pleasant Valley Night Express : s • * te Giant Geyser, Mon. .. Crystal Cascade, Mon. 276 277 278 280 282 283 SUMMER RECREATION. THE custom of setting apart a few weeks or months of the year as a respite from labor is fast gaining popularity; and each season adds to the number of those who leave their daily cares behind, and seek rest and recuperation for mind and body among the hills and deep green Woods of the country, or at the sea-shore, bathing in Surf or sunlight, and cooled by the invigorating breezes of the Sea. Those whom fortune has favored can devote the season to travel, visit- ing in succession the rare natural wonders with which the country is stored. Such have only to select the points of interest, and the most pleasing routes by which they may be visited. A far larger number, however, choose some desirable and healthful locality where they may secure the desired change and rest, at cheaper rates even than they could remain at home. Both classes will find in this book abundant directions for their guidance. But the following chapter is devoted to another class, who, from economy or adventure, choose more freedom in their movements. I refer to the pedestrian, equestrian, and camping-out party. w There is a certain age when young men glory in pedestrianism, and see in it a source of great pleasure. A few years later the same parties will prefer a horse to facilitate their movements; and, later yet, a carriage will be required to complete their happiness. As our army of young men is constantly recruited from the ranks of the home-guard of boys, and as the “wheels of time ’’ as surely graduate these youth into manhood, it is proposed to treat briefly each of these sources of recreation. PEDESTRIANISM. When the place for “camping-out ’’ has been determined on, the mode of travel will come up for discussion: this, of course, will be largely determined by the place chosen for camp, and the length of time it is to be occupied. If it is to be permanent, it matters little how the place is reached. But there is another manner of camping-out, combining with it pedestrianism or equestrianism, by which the advantages of tour and camp are combined; and this, when the party are physically able to 13 14 PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. endure it, will be found a source of great enjoyment, particularly if an interesting country be selected. Eight or ten miles per day, at early morning and late evening, can easily be made, which will sum up quite a trip during the season. There is a romantic novelty connected with an excursion of this kind, which commends it to the adventurous. Much of the enjoyment, however, will depend upon the similarity of tastes, and physical endurance of the party. The “best fellow in the world,” socially, would soon become unendurable if he “broke down '' every day on the march. > ***... .. TROUT FISHING. How delightful the sport in early morn, when the clear air resounds with the songster’s happy note, and a roseate hue tips the mountain top : or at quiet eve, when the last rich golden rays of the sun struggle to pierce the overhanging boughs, -to cast the alluring fly, and land the gamey trout! And what a tempting dish it forms, caught and cooked by your own hands, seasoned by a good appetite and the excitement of adventure POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 15 Pedestrianism determined on, it is of the greatest importance to reduce the stock of clothing and equipment to actual necessities, for “every ounce becomes a pound” at the end of a long jaunt. A frequent error of the novice in tramping tours, is to choose new and elaborately equipped knapsacks, heavy rifles or fowling-pieces, with patent alm- munition and fishing-tackle, the accumulation of which soon becomes burdensome, and the pleasure of the excursion is spoiled. Fortunately nearly every one can get valuable hints on the subject of out-of-door life from men of army experience. Strong shoes and clothing are im- portant. A change of socks and underclothes, and a rubber and woollen blanket, will be required. The three sides of a shelter tent, divided among a party of three, can be taken. A wire bread-toaster for broiling game or meat, a coffee-pot, with tin plates and drinking-cups, knives and forks, a hatchet, and pocket-compass, complete the Outfit; and all weigh but a few pounds. Select a light game-bag or haversack, in place of the heavier knapsack. It is not only lighter, but can be carried with more freedom. A cape made of oiled silk, or glazed muslin, reaching to the hands, will be found very serviceable. It is light, and, when not in use, takes but little more space than a handkerchief, and is a complete protection against showers by day, or dampness at night. Milk, bread, &c., can always be purchased from the farmers; coffee and crackers at the stores. Unless hunting be intended as a specialty, rifles or fowling- pieces should be left at home. A Smith and Wesson sixteen-inch pistol with a detached stock weighs but a few ounces, and for ordinary tours will answer all requirements. Fish hooks and lines should be taken, but a rod can be improvised for the occasion. A valise containing additional changes of clothing can be forwarded from point to point. The expense of an excursion of this kind will be found to be surprisingly small. EQUESTRIANISM. In many respects the comforts and pleasures of an excursion will be increased if the party are mounted. Uninteresting sections can be Quickly passed, and additional clothing and equipments can be taken. With a coil of rope to picket the horse, he will secure his own living, with the addition of oats purchased by the way. The camp should be pitched where cedar or hemlock boughs for beds can be had. Another very popular plan with pedestrians is to hire a horse and wagon to draw the baggage, cooking utensils, tent, blankets, clothing, &c.; and a larger Supply can then be taken. Each of the party may become driver in turn. It also saves delay in case of the illness of one of their number, who may still be able to play the part of driver. This plan possesses many advantages, and is worthy of consideration. wº- mº rººm rº OUT-OF-DOOR LIFE. On the line of the Erie Railway, near Rock City, N.Y. PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 17 WAGON RIDING. There is still another mode of travel for summer tourists which com- bines the pleasures of those already described, and possesses many additional advantages; namely, a good roomy covered wagon with curtains to be rolled up at the sides, in which all can ride, take their cooking utensils, tent, valises, guns, fishing-tackle, sketching-materials, &c. A good pair of horses, and an experienced cook for driver and “man of all work,” will complete the outfit. Such a party can be always at home, can camp for a few days on the banks of some beautiful stream or lake, or where the scenery, fishing, hunting, or berries invite them to tarry. Last summer the writer met such a party from Wilkes Barre, encamped on the shores of Highland Lake, on the summit of North Mountain, Pennsylvania (see illustrated description of North Mountain), which had improved even upon this plan. In addition to tent and equipments, they had a light boat in their wagon, which could be readily launched. It might be slung beneath, and become the receptacle of small packages. This party were dressed in a unique uniform of blue flannel. They re- mained encamped several days at North Mountain, where the fishing is good, with fine shooting in the neighborhood; the ladies, meanwhile, dividing their time between their tent and the North-Mountain House. The most convenient and ornamental tent which we have seen for camp- ing-out parties, or for the lawn, is manufactured by Gale & Co., 15 and 16 Fanueil Hall Square, Boston. It is pentagonal, and opens like an um- brella; is covered with striped canvas; the walls can be wholly or par- -tially removed at pleasure. It has a folding centre-table, if desired, and is made of three sizes, accommodating from six to a dozen persons; yet it can be pitched or struck in ten minutes, and weighs but fifty pounds. A valuable adjunct to this tent is the lately invented camp-store sold by H. L. Duncklee, 87 Blackstone Street, Boston, which for its com- | —ll | | | | *† pactness, and the many conven- iſºlº iences it combines, should have |Hºmº" H | =\ lºſs Lº been named multum in parro. | - | | | cAMP-Stove (open). cAMP-Stov E (CLosed). The accompanying illustrations represent the stove and furniture, both open, and packed ready for transportation. 18 - PopULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. In addition to the stove and detached oven, with a capacity for baking a turkey or fifteen pounds of beef, is an eight-quart kettle, six-quart tea- kettle, two-quart coffee-pot, fry-pan, two square and one round pans, a dipper, gridiron, tent-collar, and eight feet of telescope funnel. The ware is so constructed that it nests, and packs in the oven. The oven and funnel pack inside the stove, still leaving room for a half-dozen plates, cups, knives, and forks, &c. The stove and furniture complete weighs but twenty-seven pounds , and may be purchased for fifteen dollars. With such a tent and cooking apparatus how cosily a camping-out party may live, either at the mountains or sea-shore | Such a scene is repre- sented on the shores of “Jones Lake.” (See Index.) There is still another species of camping-out which should be mentioned. I refer to the real camp of the explorer, the hunter, or adventurer. There is, extending from Canada to Mexico, a border of wild partially explored country, which affords a field rich in adventure for all who choose to visit it. There the camp is a real necessity, the requirements of which it behooves all who propose such an excursion, to study thoroughly before embarking. There are so many interesting localities on our frontier to visit that one can hardly go amiss; perhaps, however, there are none more attractive than the Yellowstone region of the North-west, the great “National Park,” as it has been aptly termed ; or the new State of Colorado with its “Garden of the Gods,” its mighty cañons, &c. Here will be found in perfection those elements of grandeur in outline, and sublimity in effect, which please the eye, and gratify the SellSéS. The comparatively small number that choose these distant fields of adventure will usually select their grounds from information outside this volume, while the thousands who go into camp nearer home may consult its pages. To such, a few additional suggestions may be in place. The seacoast and lake shores present unusual facilities for this mode of summer recreation, inasmuch as the lines of railway which usually skirt the water's edge afford convenient and cheap transportation and means of access. It is no new feature that the writer seeks to introduce into summer amusements, for thousands practise it every season; but it is the desire to show those who have never tried it how simple and enjoyable this recreation is. During the “season " of 1874, while visiting summer resorts in differ- ent sections of the country, we saw camping-out parties at and in the vicinity of a large number of them. On the shores and islands of Lake Winnepesaukee several parties encamped for the season ; and both there and at Lake George they remained until the autumn frost had tinged the foliage. PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 19 And so at numerous other pleasant localities, and along the routes lead- ing to them, parties were seen who had chosen this mode of recreation. Beyond all question, the most delightful and healthful way to spend one's summer vacation is in “camping out,” provided the weather is reasonably pleasant. A time of storm is gloomy enough, whatever the mode chosen for enjoyment. | “… º. º - - --- - - -v- º *-***'. - º Bºžº º -- ! jº, º %- º *l º ſ f CAMPING OUT. In “camping out,” all the stiff formalities of conventional life are put aside. The body is left free for any sort of dress except fashiona- ble styles; and the mind is in constant and cheery repose, and there- fore able to enjoy life with the keenest zest. Health comes to the inva- lid, with its building-up force of a sharp and eager appetite; and the strong feel an electric energy, daily renewed, unknown in great cities and marts of trade. In fact, while the visitor to thronged summer-re- sorts often returns home worn and wearied, the sojourner of the camp comes back increased in his avoirdupois, his strength, and his sense of having had a “glorious” vacation. 20 POPULAR RESORTS, AND II.OW TO REACH THEM. “Camping out” means a sort of woodman's or frontier life. It means living in a tent; sleeping on boughs or leaves; cooking your own meals; washing your own dishes, and clothes perhaps; getting up your own fuel; making your own fire; and foraging for your own provender. It means activity, variety, novelty, and fun alive; and the more you have of it, the more you like it; and the longer you stay, the less willing you are to give it up. In fact, there is no glory for the summer tourist, to compare with the “camping-out ’’ glory. For preparation, you will first know where your camp is to be, and what it affords for your pleasure. And you will scarcely make your party less than three, nor more than five. If the number exceeds five, it will be better to pitch two distinct camps at some distance apart, and thus have pleasant “neighbors” to visit, and hospitable parties to give, each to the other. Guns and fishing tackle carefully prepared for use will, of course, be required for localities where game and fish abound; and few places would be selected where one or the other, at least, would not be accessible. Two grand essentials should be thoughtfully remem- bered, - plenty of dish-cloths, and a good hatchet. A good blanket, rough clothes, strong shoes, and a convenient knapsack, are absolute es- entials; but don’t burden yourself with needless things. In fact, while nothing is needed in the way of choice cravats and white kids, there should be careful regard to the little things you will need but cannot buy in the woods, even to a stout-bladed jack-knife. It is impossible, and useless to attempt, to describe particular spots, which would tempt a “camping-out ’’ party to prefer. They are num- bered by thousands. If you would have large game on land, and salmon in the waters, a location must be chosen in the more wild and rugged re- gions of our remote borders; and in the right season, – say, in early May. Should a more quiet and subdued locality be preferred, you may push for the mountain sides and slopes of Pennsylvania or of Virginia. No more attractive beauties of nature invite the tourists of our land, than await those who may seek the elevated portions of “Old Virginny.” Prince Edward's Island is also unsurpassed in natural charms, in healthfulness, in its sources for camping-out pleasures, and the broad hospitality of its rural population. In due time, a great Summer pil- grimage will set towards that garden of the sea. Nova Scotia abounds in novelties to our own people, and in its fine lakes, filled with the most eager and gamey of trout. The solitudes of New Brunswick, so strangely overlooked by travellers and writers, possess some of the loveliest as well as the grandest and most romantic attractions to be found on any portion of our continent. This picturesque region also will soon, no doubt, be opened by pleasure hunters and the writers of many books. POPULAR RESORTS, AND IIow TO REACII THEM. 21 Northern Maine about Moosehead and the Rangeley Lakes, the hills and streams of Vermont, a great and grand region lying between the White Mountains and Canada, a lovely land around the head waters of the Connecticut River, not forgetting Mount Desert nor the Adiron- dacks, – these are some of the leading areas of our Northern climate, where camping out may be enjoyed, in all its delicious and inspiring fulness. - - This is all that space will permit in this work, for remarks upon “camp- ing out.” As yet it is only here and there that the camping-out party is to be found, in the warm months. The attention of vacation takers has not been turned to this best of all modes of seeking one's comfort and ease, to the degree required to make it popular and general. But it cannot be commended too earnestly, nor pressed too persistently upon public notice. It is not absolutely required that the party camping out shall locate in a place remote from all civilization. On the contrary, a vast number of our more popular summer resorts and towns offer most inviting spots for a camp (see cut) to which the belles would delight to ramble, and where primitive hospitality can be liberally dispensed, even when young bucks of fashion may be compelled to act the parts of Bridget the cook, and Mary the maid of all work. It is a matter of surprise that this charming way to diversify the individual and family trip is not more generally remembered and prac- tised. Let the reader, as he decides whither his summer flight shall be, ponder well this idea of “Camping Out.” Harbor and Coastwise Excursions. – One of the most delight- ful yet economical sources of Summer enjoyment is the harbor excursion. From each of our great maritime cities, boats conveniently arranged leave daily for some of the most popular resorts. From Washington they sail down the Potomac to Mount Vernon; from Baltimore to the beautiful water retreats in the vicinity; from New York up the North and East Rivers, to Staten Island, and Harlem ; from Boston to Nan- tasket Beach, Long Island, Gloucester, and Nahant. Indeed, every large town with a harbor front has its pleasant resorts; and the stranger has Only to look in the daily papers for particulars. Again : if the tourist would consult comfort and economy, if he would take sleep and rest while passing familiar or uninteresting sections of the country, he can frequently give diversity to his travels by an occa- sional trip on a coastwise steamer. In going east from Boston, the daily steamboat line to Portland, the “Star of the East" up the Kennebeck, “Sanford's Independent Line" up the Penobscot, the “Inside Line” from Portland to Mount Desert and Bangor, and the Halifax boats, are all first-class, and deserving the notice of tourists. The New York boats are described elsewhere. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEMI. 23 HINTS TO TO URISTS, IT is a matter of no little anxiety to the devotee of summer pleasures, or the seeker after new wonders, to choose the field for his examination which shall yield the richest harvest of pleasure. In days gone by, it was largely the custom, as a matter of course, to visit those popular localities of most convenient access; and so it happened that each suc- ceeding year found the same familiar faces returned to the haunts of past enjoyments. But, with the remarkable improvement in railroad and steamboat travel, new resorts have been opened, and fresh wonders pre- sent their claims for examination. This has induced a new feature in summer travel. Experienced tourists no longer choose the shortest line to an objective point, regardless of the scenery through which it lies; but, by judicious selection, with slight detour, they can embody such routes as lie through new or pleasant places, which can generally be done with trifling addition to the expense. The stranger will find much assistance in the selection of desirable routes and localities, by an examination of these pages, which, in the present instance, have covered largely the older and better-known routes of travel; but much remains to be done. The task set for this work is not completed by dwelling only upon the well-known and much-visited “resorts '' which have secured popular favor, and are of ready and easy access. The perspective of other and less-regarded charms of Nature comes into our future picture. As popu- lation advances to its hundred millions, pushing the wave of frontier invasion on, and still on, until it shall break at last upon shores of the remotest sea, new objects of delight, new charms and beauties and wonders of creation, will be embraced in the “popular resorts” of this vast empire. It is not only the places of gayety and fashion and luxury, which appeal to Summer migration. There are the zones of soft and bland climates, equable in temperature, and pure of air and water. There are the pharmacopoeias of Nature’s healing springs, formed from her own great recipes. And there are other regions, on mountains or in valleys, to all of which the sufferers from bodily ills will finally resort in great multitudes in the years now coming. As yet, the stream of travel during the heated term may be said to move slowly toward the States lying upon, or contiguous to, the great lakes and rivers of our North-west. And yet Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Indiana, Iowa, and Illinois constitute a region replete with every degree of picturesque variety, excepting the wild grandeur of lofty mountain ranges. For invalids with debilitated systems and low vitality, especially consumptives, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa are now esteemed by many as decidedly preferable, and more promising of cure than the soft and palliating atmosphere of Florida. In Michigan, 24 POPULAR RESORTS, AND ITOW TO REACH THEM. the island of Mackinaw, in the straits of that name, rising in a line two hundred feet above the water; and the wonderful “Pictured Rocks,” extending twelve miles, and having an elevation of three hundred feet from the water’s edge, – are famous already. Wisconsin abounds in remarkable evidences of having been once inhabited by a now extinct race. One of these is said to be in the form of a recumbent man, a hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty feet across the body. (?) Another is in the shape of a huge turtle. There are falls, gorges, and wildly torn rocks and hills, the rivals of the most famous in our land. Minnesota even surpasses some of our most favorite regions of charming scenery. Save great cataracts and lofty mountains, the State is of rarest Wealth in natural glories; and no less in stupendous and yet not fully explored caves. The widely famed St. Anthony’s Falls are in Wisconsin. And what is generally said just here of these three States applies no less to the sister States of that region. The traveller who would seek some new region for recreation, adventure, or health, may well make his Summer campaign in the pleasant lands of the North-west. Colorado is rapidly coming into popular consideration. Twenty years ago it was scarcely mentioned in gazetteers. Now it is a State of this Union. The advance of Colorado into public notice, as a place for emigrants to seek, had its origin in the California fever, and greed for gold. But the rapid and magical changes of a few years have revealed to our people a region of indescribable grandeur. Here every thing is laid out upon Nature’s most gigantic Scale. Rocks, piercing the clouds, rear their summits from cañons and vast gulfs and gashes that fill the Soul with speechless awe and delight. All that imagination could con- ceive, of the stupendous, awful, and sublime, can be profusely studied in our new sister State of Colorado. Such a glorious panorama cannot re- main unappreciated among such a travelling and voyaging people as ours. The Territory of Montana, is another field of Nature’s wonders, though hardly opened to the tourist. But California is a world by itself, rich in every variety of scene. Here Nature displays her grandest moods. To speak of Florida is to re-state what is now well known among all classes. The remarkably equable climate, at all seasons of the year to be found in certain portions of Florida, so novel and delightful to strangers, has invited a constantly increasing tide of visitors to that State, especially since the war. It is pronounced the most healthful section of our Continent. The modes of living, the hospitality of its citizens, its flowers, birds, and varied fruits, – but not its alligators, —are sources of sweet and placid enjoyment, sui generis in Florida. Other wonders are constantly presenting themselves, and claim our attention as “Popular Resorts.” We now turn to New England. PopULAIR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACII THEM. 25 The City of Boston. – If we depart from the general plan of this work, to take special note of a great city, it is because Boston stands out in marked distinctiveness from every other city on the continent, — per- haps it should be said, from all others of the whole world. For a certain class of vacation tourists, Boston contains as much to study and enjoy as is found by other classes in the peaceful woods, the mountain sub- limities, or the ocean's grand moods. The claim to pre-eminence among all our cities, for lavish profusion and unstinted generosity in all mat- ters pertaining to moral, intellectual, and philanthropic progress, is conceded to Boston, without dispute. Nor are these characteristics Spas- modic or ephemeral. From the earliest history of the Puritanical settlements, this distinction has marked the history of Massachusetts, with Boston as the chief and centre of its manifestations. Institutions of learning ; of moral and Christian teaching; of broad and compre- hensive philanthropy; of art; of aesthetic culture; of hygiene; of all which tends to refine, purify, and elevate the race, — are not merely found here, but are full of progressive vigor. It is the innumerable systems of these classes, which induce many summer tourists to dwell for a sea- son in Boston. We shall not delay to particularize these; for they would require a book to detail them. For tortuous and narrow streets, lanes, courts, and alleys, no city of equal size can or would compete with Boston. Its plan, if it can be called such, may have been original with wandering cows and sheep; but no other design could ever have devised it as originally built since the late fire, however, many of the streets have been widened and extended, thus bringing some regularity out of seeming chaos; and the general architecture has been greatly improved, and in many cases is rich and elegant. The contrast of costly edifices, side by side with tumble-down ricketiness, is not to be found. What remain, even, of the older buildings are rapidly giving way to new. Widening of Streets is progressing at enormous cost ; and the demand for business facilities finds ample wealth to meet it. The city proper may be pleas- antly studied. Rare, beautiful, and refreshing to the eye as is Boston Common, the pride of Bostonians, the suburbs are even more attractive and grateful. We doubt if there is a city in the world with such a clustering zone of half city, half-country, -half nature, half art, — as adorns the environs of Boston. The peninsula being so much absorbed by trade, the popula- tion is forced to “roost’’ outside. Here, then, wealth and refined taste are free to combine and adorn. The stranger needs no special direc- tions. Any course will suffice for the start; and the net-work of inter- laced steam, horse-car, and carriage roads will permit one to study the whole of the delicious panorama, before finishing the day. Or, taking one 26 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. MOUNTAINS. Mountains, lakes, rivers, and sea-shore form the principal resorts of New England. The three former are so interspersed and connected, that descriptions of them naturally blend one into the other. The sea- coast, fringed with some of the best beaches in the country, is thickly dotted with summer watering-places, High up in the unseen glens of the mountains the principal rivers take their rise, sometimes gliding a thread of silver to the valleys below; again leaping boldly from crag to crag, in a series of foaming cascades and waterfalls. The mountains of New England form a --> * marked characteristic of the scenery of that picturesque region. Bold and rugged in outline, grand in effect, clothed in the blue mystery of distance, and swept by an invig- orating atmosphere, they embody the char- acteristics of popularity, and form a highly attractive point of interest for tourists. 4.42===-L -- While New England is proud of the fame of her mountains, she is equally pleased with her hundreds of beautiful lakes, sparkling in the POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 27 sunlight of nature; but in the boldness of her mountains, and the beauty of her lakes, her waterfalls are eclipsed. In magnitude they would be buried in the spray of the Yellowstone, or lost in the grandeur of Niagara; yet they give life and interest to her scenery, and add variety to the pleasures of guests. They are subject to little change. The constant roll of waters through countless ages has, with few ex- ceptions, produced little effect upon the texture of the primitive rock upon which they fall. The same jagged angles which broke their waters centuries ago, meet them now, and dash them into fragments of spray. It is far better as it is. The pleasure of travel would lose half its interest if one locality combined the excellencies of Nature. Florida, Without her unrivalled climate, Colorado shorn of her sublime caſions, or New Jersey bereft of her magnificent sea-shores, would fail to attract that tide of travel which now invades their borders. There are really no waterfalls in New England of sufficient magnitude to draw visitors by their own attractions; but, as auxiliaries, they add to the variety of scenic characteristics otherwise interesting. NEW HAMPSHIRE MOUNTAINS. The early histories of nations show that mountains have always been objects of awe and veneration. Of this we have abundant proof in writing, both sacred and profane. Pre-eminent among the mountains of New England stand the White Hills of New Hampshire. Indeed, save in altitude, the remark might hold good for the country. It is well known that the natives held the White Mountains in religious rev- erence. They called them “Agiochool: ” (Mountains of the Snowy Forehead, and House of the Great Spirit), always approaching them with the greatest deference; seldom venturing far up their sides. From the settlement of the country, they were a source of great interest. They were visited by Derby Field only twenty-two years after the landing of the Pilgrims, notwithstanding an unbroken forest intervened; and it is even claimed that a party of Englishmen visited them ten years previous to that date. The “Notch '' by which travellers can pass through to the country beyond, and through which the route of the Portland and Og- densburg Railroad lies, was discovered in 1772; since which, improve- ments have been pushed to meet the wants of visitors, until now the hotels of this region are held among the best in the country. Unless mountains are of great repute, like the White Mountains, they are sel- dom visited as a specialty; but their attractions more frequently form an auxiliary to some neighboring resort, whose enterprising proprietor improves the paths of approach, and furnishes conveyance. Hence it is safe to infer, that good hotel and transportation accommodations may 28 , POPULAR RESORTS, AND II.OW TO REACH THEM. be had in the vicinity of most of our prominent mountains whose at- tractions are advertised to the public. Hilly and mountainous regions, like New England, New York, and the North-west, are generally interpersed with ponds and lakes, which give a pleasing variety to the landscape. Should the mountains take the form of ranges, however, as in Pennsylvania, the surface is drained through the valleys; and lakes, which are so common in some sections of the country, are in such regions almost entirely unknown. New Hamp- shire has been aptly termed the “Switzerland of America.” Her gran- ite hills of rough primeval rock rear their bald and stately peaks high above the surrounding plains. The scanty though productive soil at their base, formed by washings from the disintegration of ages, supports dense forests of hardy trees, which, as you ascend, become dwarfed and twisted by the winds; yet, when mere Liliputian in size, their proportions remain. When the line of vegetation is passed, mosses and lichens alone clothe the nakedness of the rocks. The Black Mountain of North Carolina is higher than the White Mountains, but it is difficult of access, and its surroundings lack the grand scenic effects with which the former are clothed. The Sierra Nevadas, though loftier in altitude and grander in effect, are as yet com- paratively unknown; while the ease with which the Highlands of New Hampshire are reached will always assure their popularity in the esti- mation of the travelling public. * THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The White Mountains, geographically known, comprise a large portion of that part of New Hampshire lying north of Lake Winnepesaukee, embracing an area of more than five hundred square miles. Through this region are located many of the summer houses for which New Hampshire is famed. These are frequently a long distance apart: five, ten, fifteen, twenty, or even thirty miles may intervene, – which results in frequent annoyance to the stranger, who, having been preceded by friends, expects to meet them at their hotel as readily as he would at Newport, Long Branch, or Saratoga; whereas they may have ap- proached from an opposite direction, and their hotel may be twenty miles away. At a distance, all of this section of the State is termed the White Mountains: with the inhabitants, different localities have local names by which they are known. If, for instance, a citizen of Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, should announce his intention to visit Mount Belknap, it would be understood that he would go to Guil- ford. If he would visit Red Hill, he would go to Centre Harbor; if : |º | º º | --- | º º 30 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Mount Kearsarge, he would stop at Potter's Station, on the Northern Railroad. If Mount Kiarsarge were to be visited, he would go to North Conway; if Mount Chocorua, or Ossipee Mountains, he would stop at West Ossipee; if Moosilauke, he would go to Warren; if the Franconia Range, he would continue to Littleton, and thence by stage. And to many other mountains popular as resorts, known at a distance as a part of the White Mountains, his routes would be equally divergent: yet a visit to neither of these would take him to the White Mountains as understood by the citizens of the State. It is therefore advised, that the visitor to that region procure a good map, or, better yet, a copy of “Eastman’s White-Mountain Guide,” a most complete and reliable book. The White Mountains proper, of which Mount Washington forms the crowning centre, are approached by four great natural thoroughfares, or valleys, up which run superior carriage or rail ways, traversed by excel- lent coaches or elegant cars. To these valleys, from every direction converge the various lines of New England. By either road the tourist will be taken to some portion of the White Mountain region along a route replete with interest. No two are alike; the scenery differs de- cidedly on each; and, as much of the enjoyment of a tour depends upon the pleasure en route, it behooves the traveller to use care in his selection. By going one road, and returning on another, the pleasure may be increased. If the design of the tourist were an objective point, like Niagara Falls, the Mammoth Cave, Watkins Glen, Cape May, or Mauch Chunk, he might well select the most direct route, and save himself for the anticipated pleasures in store; but the White Mountain trip will pay from the start. The scene changes incessantly, and the whole excur- sion is a panorama of interesting views. The person who has no love for the beautiful in nature, or who fails to appreciate its charms, and expects to find the great source of pleasure in store at the end of his journey, will be quite likely to return disappointed. The eleven great peaks which form the White Mountain group proper are, Mount Washington, with an altitude of six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet; Adams, fifty-eight hundred; Jefferson, fifty-seven hundred; Madison, fifty-four hundred; Clay, fifty-four hundred; Monroe, fifty-four hundred; Franklin, forty-nine hundred; Pleasant, forty-eight hundred; Clinton, forty-two hundred; Jackson, forty-one hundred, and Webster, four thousand. Connecting and adjoining these are many others of nearly equal altitudes. These mountains are generally accessi- ble. A bridle-path from the south-west extends from the Crawford House, near the White Mountain Notch, over Mounts Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, to the summit of Mount Washington ; and, fol- lowing as it does the crest of the mountain range, it unfolds a panorama of the grandest views east of the Rocky Mountains. A carriage-way, POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 31 commencing at the Glen House, has been constructed up the north- eastern slope of Mount Washington; and on its western face a railroad connecting by a short turnpike with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, has been built to the top, by which the fatigues of the ascent have been overcome. Ample hotel accommodations will be found, of a superior character, on the summit. ROUTES OF APPROACH. The main routes of approach to the White Mountains are up the four great valleys, through which flow the waters from this region, — the Merrimac and Pemigewasset, the Saco, Androscoggin, and Ammonoosuc, a tributary of the Connecticut. Through each of these valleys railroads have been constructed; some extending to the mountains, others con- tinued by stages, while each connects with tributary roads leading from distant parts of the country. Visitors from Boston and vicinity have the choice of four routes. The Boston, Concord, and Montreal Rail- road extends up the Merrimac, Pemigewasset, and Ammonoosuc Rivers to the base of Mount Washington. This is also the direct line to Beth- lehem, Franconia Mountains, Plymouth, and Lake Winnepesaukee vid Weir's. The Conway. Branch of the Eastern Railroad conveys pas- sengers to North Conway, where intersection is made with the “Portland and Ogdensburg,” by which they continue to the mountains. Tourists can also visit Lake Winnepesaukee by the Wolfboro’ Branch of this road. Passengers from Boston and Portland, by the Boston and Maine Rail- road, reach the White Mountains vić, the valley of the Cocheco to Lake Winnepesaukee; thence by a delightful steamboat sail to Wolfboro’ and Centre IIarbor, continuing by stage and rail through the valley of the Saco, as above. Another route is to continue to Portland by the “Eastern,” “Boston and Maine,” or by steamer, and thence by the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, up the Presumpscot and Saco valleys to North Conway, where the train receives tourists by the Eastern and Boston and Maine Rail- roads, and continues up the valley of the Saco, through the “Notch '' to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses,” where connection is made with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. The approach through the Androscoggin valley, from Portland and the East, is by the Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham, and thence eight miles by stage to the Glen House. Travellers from New York to the moun- tains vid Boston will take one of these routes. There are, however, inside lines connecting with the several Sound boats, which intersect the * At the date of writing, the road is completed to Bemis Station, within eight miles of the “Notch,” with flattering prospects of being finished before this meets the eye of the reader. 32 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH TIMEM. “Boston, Concord, and Montreal,” without passing through Boston. Tourists by the Norwich or Stonington Lines, or by all rail from New York, can also go by the Worcester, Nashua, and Nashua and Rochester Railroads, intersecting the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, Boston and Maine, or Eastern Railroad routes to the mountains. If the trip be made by all rail from New York, travellers can take the Connecticut Valley Rail- road at Springfield, continuing to Wells River, where intersection is made with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, and passengers will reach the mountains by that line. In approaching from Montreal or Quebec vić Grand Trunk Railroad, tourists can also strike the mountains on either the east or west side. If the former is desirable, continue on the Grand Trunk to Gorham, and thence by stage eight miles to the Glen House. If the west side is preferred, change from the Grand Trunk to the “Boston, Concord, and Montreal,” at Northumberland, by which you are taken direct to the Twin Mountain or Fabyan Houses. Visitors to Bethlehem or the Franconia Range must make this change. Montreal and Quebec passengers may also go to the White Mountains vià St. Johns, Canada, and continue thence by the South-eastern Rail- road to Newport and Wells River. Those from Lake George go by Burlington and Montpelier to Wells River. From Saratoga, they can cross the lake to Burlington, or go by Rutland to Bellows Falls; and in either case intersect the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Road at Wells River, and reach the mountains by that line. Each of the above routes has its individual attractions. The termini of the several railroads are connected with each other, and with the Summer Houses, by lines of coaches. Parties can also secure private carriages for transportation throughout the mountains, which will be found one of the most enjoyable features of the excursion. FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. The group of which Mount Lafayette, having an altitude of fifty- two hundred feet, is the central figure, is locally known as the Franconia. Range. These mountains are situated about thirty miles south-west from the White Mountains proper, and, by their many points of Scenic interest, successfully rival their more pretentious neighbors. Mount Lafayette commands a magnificent prospect. It is reached by a bridle- path, but the ascent is arduous. Here, also, is located that remarkable phenomenon, Profile Mountain (elsewhere alluded to), which is un- questionably the most wonderful natural curiosity in the country; While many other attractive features combine to render this a resort of great popularity. As before observed, the scenery on each of the above rail- way lines is entirely different, as shown by the accompanying illustrated pleasure routes. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. w 33 ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE FROUTE NO. 1. Boston, Lowell, Worcester, Nashua, Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and Concord to Lake Winnepesaukee, Fran- conia, and White Mountains, Bethlehem, Lake Mem- phremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. BOSTON, CONCORD, AND MONTREAL RAILROAD. THE increase of travel to the White Mountains during the past few years has been something remarkable. The ease with which the trip can now be made, even by the aged or by invalids, has wrought this change. Cars of the most approved styles, equipped with all modern improvements, are run through without change from Boston and from the New-York boats. Hotels furnished with the comforts and luxuries of home spring up from the depths of the forest, and even crown the rocky summit of Mount Washington. A commendable emulation has actuated the several railroad companies, each striving to excel the other by add- ing to the comforts and conveniences of tourists. To-day the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad leads the van by placing its patrons at the end of their journey with the least effort to themselves. Its rails stretch to the base of Mount Washington; may, by the patronage of this road, the cars now climb to the crest of that grand old peak, where they deposit travellers on the platform of an excel- lent hotel which has been built to shelter them. With the exception of a short ride from the Fabyan House to the Mount Washington R.R. Depot (six miles), there is a continuous line from Boston to the top of Mount Washington. This route receives more patronage, and distributes its patrons through more connecting lines, than any other. Among the most prominent roads which contribute to swell the travel on the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, are the Portsmouth and Concord Railroad, Boston and Maine, Manchester and Lawrence, and Concord, with passengers from Boston, Lynn, Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and the East; the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, with guests from those cities; Framingham and Lowell, and its connections, with passengers from New Bedford, Newport, Taunton, Fall River, and Providence, and the New-York and Stonington lines of steamers; the Worcester and Nashua, with its local and New-York travel; and the Connecticut-River and Passumpsic Railways, with their numerous branches and connecting lines. Each of these roads must send its White-Mountain travel over the rails of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal. 34 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Passengers from Boston take the cars at the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Depot, or go by the “Boston and Maine” from Haymarket Square to Lawrence, and thence via the Concord Railroad to Manchester, where the train connects with that from Boston by the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Railroad, and the two united continue to the mountains. The Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Road is, perhaps, the legitimate route. This is made popular by the excellence of its equipments and running stock, and the promptness and regularity of its express trains, ar- ranged at hours calculated to meet the wants of pleas- ure travel. Its de- || || || pot, on Causeway ######3 Street, being one | || ºfºil of the finest struc- ||||—|| # | º |iſiºi tures of the kind H= in the United States, is not only very popular with the travelling public, but it has come to be an ob- ject of interest to strangers. A large share of summer patronage is that in transit from New York and the South, through Boston, to the interior resorts of New Hampshire. The New York trains reach Boston early in the morning, at six or half past. The express train for the mountains leaves, by this road, at eight, A.M.; and the object was to construct a depot so ample in its appointments, so thorough in its equipments and conveniences, as to preclude the necessity of going to a hotel; and travellers will find, at the Lowell Depot, draw- ing rooms as elaborately furnished and conducted, and restaurants where meals are as well served, as at first-class hotels generally; thus affording to the wearied, travel-worn tourist, abundant facilities for toilet and rest before the resumption of his journey. The ease with which the Lowell Depot is reached by public conveyance is also a feature of interest to the traveller. It is within fifty feet of the Eastern Railroad Depot, and within two minutes walk of the “Fitch- burg” or “Boston and Maine;” while the depots in the southern por- tion of the city are connected with this by horse-cars, which pass the door every few minutes. º- # º - miſſiſſiliili |ºt | - | º h |E # - --- Causeway Street, Boston, POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 35 In the construction of this building, the architect has not only sought to combine all the advantages possible for the accommodations of the railroad, and the convenience of its patrons; but in its design and execu- tion the city has secured an ornament in architecture of which its citi- zens may well be proud. The accompanying cut entirely fails to convey an idea of either its magnitude or finish. The “train-house,” 565 feet in length, has been entirely ignored by the artist; but its ample propor- tions, completely covering the trains upon the several tracks, will, in the protection it gives, be appreciated by the public. The principal tower is 148 feet high, the central dome 113 feet, and the east tower 104 feet. The central front of the building is occupied by the ladies’ grand reception-room, 54 by 25 feet, which is elabor- ately finished and richly furnished. Upon its right and left respectively are also waiting-rooms for gentlemen and ladies. At the left of the main tower is the dining-room; and upon the samie floor are baggage- rooms, barber-shop, toilet rooms, drinking fountains, and every conve- nience required by travellers. The entrance is through archways at either end, of sufficient capacity for foot-passengers and carriages, a great convenience in stormy weather. From these the entrance is to the main court, where the first impres- sion of the magnitude of this building is felt. This court is 92 feet long by 52 feet wide, and extends from floor to ceiling, past three stories, a distance of 76 feet. The floor is covered with marble tiles in unique design. Ten pilasters at the sides, and six at the ends, continue to the roof, and, standing one above the other, support the balconies on the sides which lead to the various offices of the company. Between each pilaster is an arched-top doorway or window, opening to rooms beyond, an arrangement which gives great richness to the finish. The doors on the side open from the main entrance, and to the dining and baggage rooms; those at the south enter the reception-rooms, and . those at the north lead to the trains; and between these is the ticket- office. The entire finish is in ash, elaborately carved. The ceiling is glass and stucco. From this depot the trains are made up for Lake Winnepesaukee, the Franconia Mountains, Northérn New Hampshire and Vermont, Northern New York, Canada, and the West. Passengers from Boston can also take the cars at the Boston and Maine Depot. These trains unite at Manchester, New Hampshire, and continue through Concord to the Fabyan House, at the base of Mount Washing- ton. This route is made pleasant and interesting by the many streams and bodies of water along which it passes, among which may be mentioned the Charles and Mystic Rivers; the Merrimac, along whose banks it follows for many miles; the Suncook and Winnepesaukee Rivers ; Lake Winnesquam, Lit- tle Bay, Lake Winnepesaukee, Waukawan Lake, Long Pond, Pemigewasset, and º PopUI, AR RESORTS, AND HOW TO I: EACII THEM. 3 Baker's Rivers; the Connecticut, Wells, Ammonoosuc, and Israel's Rivers; and many other smaller streams and ponds. We strike the Merrimac at Lawrence or Lowell, following it past Man- chester and Concord, crossing and re-crossing it at times. The beauty of its course is frequently varied by picturesque falls, affording more im- proved water-power than any river in the country. The falls at Law- rence, Lowell, Amosketſ, and Hook sett are particularly noticeable. The accompanying cut, representing Hooksett Falls, also shows the Suncook Valley Railroad, which leads to Pittsfield, N.H., a thriving and beautiful village nestled among high hills, which are dotted with farm- houses, that are fast becoming popular with boarders from cities. This route also leads through the heart of the cotton-manufacturing interest of New England; passing L(t/trence, Lowell, and Manchester, be- sides many smaller manufacturing-towns. Concord, the beautiful capital city of New Hampshire, possesses many features which make it a favorite resort during the summer and autumn months. It contains about 12,500 inhabitants; yet all are so comfortably domiciled, that it is frequently remarked by strangers “Where do your poor live?” The shaded concrete walks of the city add much to the comfort of visitors. The State Capitol stands in the centre of a small but beautiful square, handsomely laid out, and ornamented with broad-spreading trees. The structure is of pleasing architecture, built of native granite, for which the vicinity is noted, the whole surmounted by a lofty dome. Imme- diately fronting the State IIouse, on the main street, is the Eagle Hotel, a fine brick structure, which is widely known as a first-class house. The “Eagle’’ receives much of its foreign patronage from parties, who, after starting for the mountains, prefer to spend a few days at Concord before leaving for the season; and particularly from those returning in the autumn, driven in by the early frosts, who always find here and in the vicinity a few weeks of charming weather. Among the other public buildings may be named the Court House, Churches, Schools, City IIall, State Prison, and State Asylum for Insane. The two latter institutions are in fine condition. The Prison, unlike those of many States, is made a paying institution. The Asylum has been built 32 years, and is very successfully conducted. Concord is somewhat celebrated for its manufactures, particularly of carriages and coaches, which are shipped extensively to all parts of the world. As a railroad centre, Concord presents admirable facilities for intercourse with various sections of the country. The line proper of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad starts from Concord, though its cars and those of the Boston, Lowell and Nashua, the Framingham and Lowell, and the Worcester and Nashua Roads, run through from those cities, and continue to the mountains. º º º | º | | POPULAR RESORTS, AND IIow TO REACH THEM. 39 A few miles above Concord, the road again grosses the Merrimac, and leads away towards Lake Winnepesaukee. Tillon is the first town of interest. This was formerly known as San- bornton Bridge. It is a thriving manufacturing village, and forms the centre of a large agricultural region. The Methodist Seminary located here, a good view of which appears in the engraving, has been long and favorably known. Tilton possesses an unusually fine water-power, not computed by its volume alone, but by its great regularity. The river which runs through the place is the outlet of Lake Winnepesaukee, in which large reservoir the water is held in reserve by the water-power company which owns it, to supply the cotton-manufactories at Lowell and Lawrence during the droughts of summer. There is a charm in this whole region for summer life. Not only the town of Sanbornton, from which Tilton is an offshoot, but, Canterbury and Meredith, Belmont and Gilmanton, all furnish desirable Summer homes. The topography is particularly adapted to promote the health of its inhabitants. The land is generally high and rolling, and has been so long cleared that the climate is fully established. A stage leaves Tilton, on the arrival of the morning train, for Gilman- ton Academy, passing through Belmont, formerly known as Upper Gil- manton. Gilmanton is becoming popular as a summer residence for persons from Boston and New York, who build here houses for the warm season. It possesses the advantage of good and long-established institu- tions of learning, and is sought by persons having a family. Al- though supplied with daily mail and stage connections, there is no railroad within its borders; and, with a society cultivated by its fine schools, it possesses much of that pristine character which characterized New Eng- land towns of earlier days. Lower Gilmanton is reached by the “Con- COrd” and “Suncook Valley Railroad” to Pittsfield, and Gilmanton Iron Works by the “Boston and Maine” to Alton, and thence by stages. From Tilton the road follows the Winnepesaukee River, and the shores of Little Bay and Winnesquam Lake, past Union Bridge, to Laconia. Although undeveloped at present, this region possesses many features calculated to make it popular with the seeker after health and pleasure. Winnesquam Lake is some twelve or fifteen miles in length, is beautiful in form and surroundings, and, but for its more pretentious rival Win- nepesaukee, would have, ere this, received the attention which its merits deserve. It has long been known as the home for the lake trout, and somewhat famed for its piscatorial advantages. Two small summer houses furnish accommodation for visitors, – the Winnesquam at the lower end of the lake, and the Bay View, which is admirably located in the suburbs of Laconia. The cars pass between it and the lake, and leave passengers when requested. º | | | | | º | | | | | | | º | | r | - - s - ** | POPULAR RESORTS, ANI) io W to 1:1. ACII Til I.M. 41 The route, which from Concord lies through an uninteresting country, now fairly enters the lake and mountain region. The scenery does not possess the grandeur of the White-Mountain section; yet it is marked by many elements of picturesque beauty. Its water-views are fine; a distant line of mountain-peaks cuts the horizon. It is only five miles, over a good country road, to Mount Belknap, which is easily accessible, and from whose barren summit may be had one of the finest landscape-views on the Atlantic slope. It varies from the Red-Hill prospect by having Lake Winnepesaukee and the entire group of the White and Franconia Moun- tains in the same view. The steamer “Mount Washington’’ can be dis- tinctly seen soon after it leaves Alton Bay, and traced on its way for more than twenty-five miles to Wolfboro' and Centre Harbor. The steamer “Lady of the Lake” can also be followed in its tortuous course from Weir's to Centre Harbor and Wolfboro’. From this elevated position a much better idea of the great number of islands is obtained than while sailing on the lake. Beyond its placid waters the mountain ranges rise in successive peaks; and towering above all is the well-known “Presi- dential Group,” of which Mount Washington is the commanding centre. Mount Belknap is at present but little known to the travelling public; but its pleasant approach, easy access, and magnificent “View” must eventually bring it into great popularity. Visitors to Laconia will find the Bay View House (seen on the right of the engraving) delightfully located, and surrounded by beautiful scenery. It is noted alike for its good table, home-like atmosphere, and reasonable terms. Lake Village is but a mile and a half from Laconia: their suburbs meet: and the towns are seemingly one. The views in the vicinity are very like tlºose near La- conia. Indeed, the same moun- tain ranges may be seen in the distance, though the water foreground is different. There is nothing grand in the scenery as the train steams away towards the lake, but it is very picturesque. At Weir's Station passengers change for Wolfboro’, ('em- tre Harbor, and Conway. Within the past year a Methodist camp-meet- LAKE VILLAGE, N.H. Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. º, ſº º - ^ º º - | | | | º º | --- | . º | º | | || | | | | | | . º | | i - PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To RÉACH THEM. 43 ing ground has been dedicated in a delightful grove adjoining the station, which bids fair to increase the popularity of this charming spot. Several commodious buildings have already been erected: lots for cottages have been secured on a site commanding a magnificent view of the lake, with fine boat and railroad accommodations. Those who desire to visit Wolf- boro’, Centre Harbor, or Conway will find the commodious little steamer Lady of the Lake awaiting them at the landing. Arrangements have been made to run the boat from Wolfboro’ to Weir's, and vice versa, to ac- commodate tourists to and from the Franconia Mountains. The dis- tance to Wolfboro’ is twenty miles, and to Centre IIarbor but half that, although the latter route seems to combine all the beauties of the lake. When the steamer leaves the wharf, the jutting points of the adjacent islands would seem to bar our progress; but, as it speeds its way, the view unfolds, the channel opens; and we wind our pleasant course among the islands, at times so near that the overhanging branches almost sweep the boat. The lake is from twenty-five to thirty miles long, and varies from one to eight miles wide. It contains about sixty-nine square miles, and nearly three hundred islands, on many of which are fine farms, and several are used for grazing. Its surface is 472 feet above the level of the sea. The numerous islands which dot its bosom, the beautiful hills which hem it in, and its many points and inlets, combine to make Winnepesaukee one of the most pleasing inland resorts in the country. The sedative influence and peculiar quiet of the scene, dur- ing the charming days of an Indian Summer, with the bright tints of an autumnal foliage, graduating to the Soft haze of the mountain blue, re- flected in its waters, is most wonderful. At Centre House or Wolf- boro’ for days and weeks the tourist lingers, forgetting, among the quiet beauties of nature, the cares of a business-life. The excur- sion to Centre Harbor also forms one of the most delightful day-trips from Boston. Leaving the city at 8 o'clock in the morning, vià the Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. and steamer “Lady of the Lake,” the visitor will have an hour for dinner at Centre Harbor, returning by the steamer “Mount Washington,” and Boston and Maine Railroad, to Boston the same evening, thus passing through the cities of Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, Concord, Dover, Haverhill, and Lawrence, with the inter- vening towns, and traversing the entire length and breadth of Lake Winnepesaukee, by both routes, in a single day. It would be easy to introduce pages of description from the pens of visitors; but all are embodied in the following quotation from that eminent writer, EDWARD EVERETT. “I have been something of a traveller in our own country, - though far less than I could wish, – and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, - | | | º PopUILAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH rii EM. 45 from the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, from the summit of Hartz Mountains to the Fountain of Vaucluse; but my eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weir's Landing to Centre Harbor.” From Weir's Landing the train continues northward past Meredith, a pleasant village located on the shores of the lake, from which steamers run to other villages during portions of the year. Above Meredith the route leads for four miles along the south shore of Waukawan Lake. Long Pond on the right is the next body of water passed, the train gliding safely under the shadow of Ragged Moun- tain, whose rocky sides have been blasted away to give pas- sage to the cars. This scenery and that around Ashland is very fine; and many a tourist artistically inclined will be lured from the cars to visit it. The Pemigewasset and Squam Rivers, which unite here, furnish many landscape “bits” of artistic beauty. The course of Squaw River is not along our route; but the lover of the beautiful who would follow it three miles, to its source in Squam Lake, will be amply repaid. Squam Lake has already been alluded to in a visit from Centre Harbor; but no single description can ex- laust its picturesque beau ties. Indeed, this whole - - region possesses peculiar RAGGED Mountain & Long Pond, MEREDITH, N.H. charms for the liberated Boston, Concord, and Montreal R. R. citizen of our larger towns, where weeks or months may be quietly spent; and, if he makes up his mind in advance to take the accommodations as he finds them, he cannot fail to be pleased. Unfortunately, no large hotel has yet been built here; -º-º-º-º-º-º: On entering the Pemigewas- set Valley at Plymouth, the scenery assumes beautiful com- binations of lines, and scenic effects. The whole region, both Žº --~~~ on the river and inland, is made up of grand pano- ramic views or choice “bits,” fron which the artist? º: readily fills his sketch-book. | 2 3 4. Engraved earpressly for “Bºtcheller's Popular ºesorts, and Ilow to ºeach Them." | Franconia Mountains. LYMOUTH, N.H. 3. Boston, Concord, & Montreal R.R. 2. Pemigewasset House. 4. Pemigewasset River. POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. 47 but it is but a short drive from Centre Harbor, where all the quiet comforts of home will be found. Ashland was formerly known as I/olderness, and is remembered by mem- bers of the Episcopal denomination as one of the first places where that society flourished in this part of the State. Above Ashland we enter the valley of the Pemigewasset, which we follow to Plymouth. The stranger will be particularly struck by the purity of the water in the wayside streams flowing from springs on the mountain sides. They furnish admirable nurseries for the speckled trout with which they gen- erally abound. The approach to Plymouth is very picturesque. The line of the road is along the banks of the river, which meanders its course through rich meadows, shaded here and there by broad-sweeping elms. On either side are high wooded hills, which, by gentle grade, sweep down to the PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE. valley below; while beyond in the blue distance are the Franconia Mountains. As you are whirled rapidly into the town, the Pemige- wasset House, which in the distance seemed a mere speck among the trees, rises invitingly before you. On reaching town, the train stops immediately in rear of the hotel; and, with an evident knowledge of the good things within, the passengers 48 PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. soon fill the long dining-rooms of the house, or the restaurants attached to it. Ample time is given for dinner, full thirty minutes, before the conductor cries, “All aboard ' " But here we find that many of our com- panions have left us, though the number is made good by others, who have been spending a few days at this enjoyable place. Plymouth is deservedly one of the most popular resorts in New Hampshire. It is a compact village, with several fine churches, schools, county buildings, railroad offices, &c. But tourists visit Plymouth for its delightful sur- roundings, pleasant drives, and magnificent scenery, and no less for the popularity of its noble hotel, the Pemigewasset House. This elegant and spacious hotel is delightfully situated on the banks of the Pemigewasset, near its confluence with Baker's River. The halls, parlors, and dining-rooms are large, light, and handsomely furnished. The chambers are high and well-ventilated. There are bath-rooms with hot and cold water, and all the modern conveniences of a first-class house. It is under the patronage of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, and is frequented by persons of culture and taste, some having secured rooms for nine consecutive years. An air of refinement pervades its atmosphere, which is immediately felt by visitors. Livºr Morº FA I.I.'s are on a wild turbid stream, which forces its way along a rugged bed of shattered rocks. The road-way crosses by a light, airy bridge immediately below the falls, affording an oppor- tunity to view them without leaving the carriage. Where there are so many pleasant drives as in the vicinity of Plymouth, it is difficult to particularize, indeed, with the fine turn-outs furnished at the hotel, one can scarcely go Livermore FALLS, PLYMOUTH, N.H. amiss. The drive around Pl/- Boston, Concord, and Montreal R. R. mouth Mt. is very highly spoken of; and a longer excursion by private conveyance up the valley of the Pemigewasset to Franconia Notch is delightful. Mount Prospect is much visited. A carriage-road leads to its summit, which is 2,963 feet above the sea. It commands a landscape view of are beauty, embracing the Franconia and White Mountains, and this entire lake-region, of which Winnepesaukee is the most noted. There are also several elevations in the immediate neighborhood of the village, which pedestrians will delight to visit. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 49 STAGE-ROUTE FROM PLYMOUTH TO THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. There are those who would find their visit to the mountains unsatis- factory without a stage-ride: to such the writer can recommend the route from Plymouth to the Profile House. It is over a good road, and through one of the most picturesque regions of New Hampshire. Artists do not generally spend their summers at the mountain-houses, but select some desirable field for their labors. The route from Plymouth to the Profile House passes through Compton and Woodstock, which is emphatically a field for artists, where, through the months of summer and autumn they gather the choice bits which occupy their winter months, and delight their friends at home. A more interesting drive can scarcely be conceived. The road passes near the Flume. This is a wonderful freak of nature, — an upright fissure in the rocks, which have been forced asun- der by some mighty convulsion; while high up their sides is held in un- yielding grasp a huge bowlder, beneath which a wild mountain torrent dashes its feathery spray. The Pool is a curiosity scarcely less interest- ing, and should be visited by the tourist. An impetuous stream, shaded by forest trees, walled in by precipitous ledges, escaping from the thicket above, leaps from the rocks into the deepening gloom below. The Basin is passed at the road-side, and is an exceedingly attractive feature. Here a mountain torrent rushes obliquely into a rocky caldron, around which for ages past the waters with dizzy whirl have polished its granite sides. The Old Man of the Mountain is seen on the left a half mile before reaching the Profile House; and it is better to visit it late in the afternoon, with the bright sky behind it. It requires no stretch of the imagination to detect the cold, sharp outline of the human profile chiselled in colossal proportions by the hand of nature. This is unques- tionably the most remarkable natural curiosity in this country, if not in the world. The likeness is formed of three blocks of granite, high up the mountain-side, located rods apart; yet when viewed from one particu- lar spot the profile is perfect. It is 70 feet from chin to forehead; yet the lines are softenéd by distance. The beautiful lake at the foot of the mountain is known as the Old Man's Washbowl. Echo Lake, near the Profile House, is also one of the points of interest. The ascent of Mt. Lafayette is made from here, and is scarcely less in- teresting than that of Mt. Washington, although much more difficult and fatiguing, as it must be done on horseback, unless the tourist is a good pedestrian. This locality can also be visited with a quarter-part the stage-coach ride by keeping the cars to Littleton. Resuming Our seats in the cars at Plymouth, the train for twenty miles continues up the valley of Baker's River. There is nothing striking in the scenery; 50 PopULAR REsorts, AND How To REACH THEM. but the mountains and river present varied combinations of forms in which the tourist will not fail to be interested. In the vicinity of Warren the mountains become bolder and more rugged; and the time is not far distant when this locality will be largely frequented by lovers of fine scenery. Even now the small hotel in the village, and many private boarding-houses, are well patronized. A wild mountain OWL'S HEAD AND MOOSILAUKE, WARREN, N.H. Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. stream in the suburbs has several waterfalls and pretty cascades, which are well worth visiting. A good carriage-road leads to the sum- mit of Moosilauke, five miles away. This mountain is 4,600 feet high, and commands a magnificent prospect. Visitors will find accommoda- tions at the Summit House. A fine view of Moosilauke may be had from the right of the cars, while going northward. A few miles above POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 51 Warren, is a high barren cliff, called Owl's Head, which rises precip- itously above the surrounding forests. This locality presents many points of interest, particularly for a pedestrian, who, with fishing-tackle or gun, may while away a few weeks in autumn. The rugged form of Owl's Head, combined with Moosilauke, and the green meadows which surround them, make a beautiful landscape. In- deed, the scenery is all fine along this section of the route. Haverhill, a few miles farther on, is a pleasant village: the public buildings of Grafton County are located here. The line of the road has led us gradually towards the Connecticut. On our left are the rich bottoms which skirt its borders; and the thriving village of Newbury, Vt., can be seen across the river. The train crosses the Connecticut at Woodsville to Wells River, where connection is made with the Passumpsic, Montpelier, and Wells River Railroads. After receiving their White Mountain passengers, the cars re-cross to the east bank, and continue up the Ammonoosuc. This is indeed a pleasing stream. Its course is broken by falls and rapids; and its waters are swept by the branches of overhanging trees. The next village passed is Bath, which is charmingly situated on the bank of the river, and presents a very picturesque appearance. Lisbon is but a few miles farther on. This is a very interesting village, and pleasantly located. The discovery of a gold-mine has given it interest. “Passump- sic ’’ passengers for Newport and Lake Memphremagog diverge here. Littleton is the largest and most populous village in this section of the State. It 'contains several hotels and boarding-houses, among which Thayer's is the best known. The scenery at Littleton presents many artistic combinations. The village is built mostly on the right bank of the river, extending up the hillside. From the upper portion of the town is had an excellent view of the White Mountains, flanked by the Franconia Mountains, and other ranges equally interesting. Littleton contains about 2500 inhabitants, and is well supplied with churches, schools, banks, and printing-offices. Indeed, it seems a minia- ture city, yet so small that ten minutes' walk in any direction will take you into the delightful suburbs, where all the pleasures and amusements of the country may be enjoyed. During the summer months the number of inhabitants is largely increased. The atmosphere is exhilarating, and the water pure, for which so many come heree, wher more home com- forts can be enjoyed, in preference to going to the mountain-houses. From Littleton, tourists can easily visit the more important points of interest. Mount Washington, the White Mountain-Notch, Pool, Flume, Profile, and many other interesting places, can be visited in a day, and return the same night. Stages to the Profile House and Franconia Moun- tains leave here twice daily. No tourist to the mountains can afford to pass the Franconia Notch, without a call. Indeed, it is one of the few | | " º º - - popular: REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. 53 places where the traveller lingers. The Profile House, near the Notch, is one of the largest and best appointed in New England. Seven miles above Littleton the Wing Iroad branches to the right, and continues past Bethlehem and Twin Mountain House to the Fabyan Hotel at the foot of Mount Washington. The next station of importance on the main line is Whitefield, exten- sively known for its lumber operations, but more recently as a summer- resort. In the neighborhood are some fine views of mountain scenery; and the place is fast growing in popularity, which may also be said of Dalton, the next station on the line. Lancaster is one of the most beautiful villages in Northern New Hampshire. It is well laid out, has concrete walks, and fine shade- LANCASTER HOUSE, - Lancaster, N.H. trees ornament its streets. The architecture is good; and tasteful gar- dens are everywhere to be seen. There are six churches, a public library, and other public buildings; and throughout the town pervades an air of taste and refinement. The village is built in an immense amphitheatre, surrounded by hills and mountains, which are reached by excellent roads, affording some of the most delightful drives in the State. The view from Lunenburg Hills, Vt., is unsurpassed. Israel's River passes through, and the Connecticut near the town. There are several hotels, the most prominent being the Lancaster House. The Lancaster House is superior to most houses situated so far from the centres of trade. It accommodates conveniently 150 guests. Engraved expressly fºr “Bacheider's Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them.” l, Lunenburg Heights, 4. Lancaster House, 2. Connect cut River, LAN CASTER, N.H. 5 Mount Lyon. 3. Boston, Concord, & Montreal R.R. 6. Stratford Peaks. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 55 The rooms are large and high-posted. From the ample cupola which surmounts it, the view of the While Mountain Range, Stratford Peaks, Starr King, Pilot Range, Mt. Lyon, and the green hills of Vermont, is unsur- passed. Parlor-cars run through the village from Canada, Boston, Fall River, Newport, New London, and Worcester. Lancaster is a town well calculated to please the visitor who would make it his home during the summer or autumn months. The Waumbec IIowse is but eight miles away, and can be reached by stage. This and other houses in Jefferson are in a romantic locality, which will well repay a visit. From Lancaster the train continues to Northumberland, where connec- tion is made with the Grand Trunk Railroad for Canada and the West. Percy or Stratford Peaks are northern outstanding spurs of the White Mountains; bold and rugged in outline, grand in effect, yet less popular with the tourist than those forming the principal group of the White Mountains proper, or those which are farther south. These mountains are visited from the village of Northumberland, where the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, and Grand Trunk Railroads intersect. A charter has been obtained by the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Com- pany to construct a railroad to the Canada line ; this will open up a new and varied field for the tourist, happily divided into rich, arable land, and wild, interesting scenery. Dixville Notch. — In the extreme northern section of New Hamp- shire, near the Canada line, there is a barren region, sparsely inhabited, yet rich in picturesque grandeur. It is a favorite resort of the few, though but little known to the general tourist. The altitude is high, the atmosphere clear and dry, and the water pure and sweet. The streams abound in speckled trout. This is near the head-waters of the Connecticut and Androscoggin Rivers; the former flowing South- ward through New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecticut, into Long Island Sound; the latter bearing eastward, skirting the base of the White Mountains, and moving through New Hampshire and Maine into the broad Atlantic. Dixville Notch has many objects of interest. A rugged pinnacle, five hundred and sixty-one feet above the carriage-road, approached by a rough stone stairway, is called Table Rock. Jacob's Ladder is the name which has been given to the path that reaches it. Another path near at hand leads to the Ice Cave, a protected gorge where the snows lodge in winter, and remain throughout the summer. Dixville Notch, which is a mile and a half long, like the White Mountain Notch, has its towering rocks, grand Flume, turbulent stream, and its Snowy cascades. 56 PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. The Connecticut Lake, lying to the northward, is also a feature of this unfrequented region. It may be reached from Colebrook, twenty- five miles, by stage. A pleasure steamer has been placed on its waters. The principal lake is but five and a half by two and a half miles; a sec- ond, four miles away, reached by a forest path, is but half this size; a third and fourth, both small, are beyond. These lakes are well stocked with fish, whose unfamiliarity with the sports of civilization make this a desirable locality for a “camping-out” party, though comfortable hotel accommodations can be had. This is similar to the Lake Umbagog region described elsewhere. Resuming our route on the Wing Road (see index), we follow up the RAILROAD STATION, BETHLEHEM, N.H. Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. banks of the Ammonoosuc ; though for several miles there is nothing in the character of the scenery to indicate to the tourist that he is rapidly approaching one of the most celebrated summer-resorts in America. Bethlehem Station is the first stopping-place. The village of Bethlehem, two miles from the station, is one of the favorite summer residences in the mountain-region. With the increasing popularity of White Mountain travel come large numbers as sight-seers and pleasure-seekers: still, there are many who visit the highlands of New Hampshire for the water pure from its mountain springs, and fine invigorating atmosphere which sweeps the hills, and after a few months’ sojourn feel that they have renewed their lease of life. The extent of country thus visited occupies an area of more than 500 square miles, embracing every variety of surface and surroundings, from the green meadow, the rolling upland, Popui, AR REsorts, AND Irow to REACH THEM. 57 the high mountain-peak, to the dense primeval forest. The village of Bethlehem is built on a plateau or ridge of deep, rich soil, which con- nects the White and Franconia ranges of mountains, and commands striking views of both. Its altitude is greater than that of any other village east of the Rocky Mountains. Some years ago a Boston merchant, overtaxed by business cares, and suffering from loss of health, was recommended to try a season at Bethlehem. He returned in the autumn well, -completely invig- orated and restored; but each season finds him with his family at their mountain home. Thankful for this marvellous and unexpected restoration, with his ample means he determined to prepare accommo- MAPLE WOOD HOTEL. Bethlehem, N.H. dations where others could have the comforts of home without the ex- pense of fitting up an establishment of their own. A valuable farm of five hundred acres was purchased, and thoroughly stocked with improved breeds of horses, cows, and sheep, and large num- bers of poultry of the most approved kinds; while the house was enlarged and placed in perfect repair, bowling and billiard saloons erected, and other games and amusements improvised for the entertainment of guests. The farm was placed under the charge of a competent person, for whom a commodious farm-house, barns, dairies, stables, and extensive out-build- ings, were erected. From this farm guests are daily supplied, during the summer, with the very best of every thing fresh from the fields. Green º º POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 59 corn, pease, beans, and garden-Sauce, growing at one hour, are bounti- fully served upon the table the next. Fresh cream, butter, and eggs, of home production, are furnished, not at fabulous hotel-prices, but at fair and reasonable rates. The verandas at the Maplewood are shaded; and the grounds are ornamented by a fine growth of sugar-maple, forming delightful play-grounds for children, and a cool and cleanly out-of-doors resort for adults. One of the finest and most picturesque views of Mount Washington, and others of the White-Mountain group, is from the ve- randa of this house ; while the vicinity abounds in delightful drives. The admirable drainage, secured at great expense, renders this a health- ful and desirable summer residence. It is supplied with never-failing spring water, and is but one and one-fourth miles from the depot. From the station at Bethlehem the train continues along the bank of the Ammonoosuc to the Twin Mountain House and to the Fabyan House, at the base of Mount Washington. The Twin Mountain House until the present season was the terminus of the railroad. It has been extensively patronized, and will be pleasantly remembered by its patrons, as a most free and social summer home. The buildings of this extensive summer resort were erected and fur- mished new in 1869–70, on a spot long occupied as a hotel, and popular with the public. The vicinity not only commands fine and varied views of the White and Franconia Mountains, but has better facilities for water amusements than any hotel of the mountain region. The house stands high on a commanding bluff, which Overlooks the Ammonoosuc. So near its head, this stream is not usually suitable for boating; but here it is held by a dam, thus affording an admirable opportunity for that healthful and fascinating amusement. The water is fringed with trees of most delicate foliage, among which guests have constructed rural seats and arbors. This is a romantic spot, where lovers and those socially inclined do love to congregate. The forests about the “Twin Mountain ’’ are very charming, and the shrubs and ferns fresh and varied. But the chief and practical excellence of this locality is in the entire absence of hay-fever, that disagreeable disease indigenous to so large a portion of the country. The following extract from “The New York Ledger” is from the pen of the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, who has long been afflicted with this distressing malady, and who now spends his summer and autumn months at this health-giving place: “Mean- while another year warrants me in saying that a resort hither is almost certain relief; not one per cent of patients failing to obtain essential if not entire relief. We can go out into the sun, stand in mud morning and evening, and in spite of dust, rain, or chill, we are well. From the Twin Mountain House, the route continues to the Fabyan IIouse, the terminus of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad; from sº - i | * sº - *" | Engraved expressly for “Bachelder's Popular Resorts, and ſlow to Reach Them.” I. White Mountain Range. FABYAN HOUSE, 3. Ammonoosuc River. 2. Mount Washington Turnpike. 4. ** Notch." PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 61 which point stages convey tourists six miles, to the Mount Washington Railway, by which they are taken to the summit the same evening. Carriages will also be found in waiting, to take passengers from every train to the Crawford House five miles distant, White Mountain Notch, and other points of attraction in that neighborhood, described under the head of Pleasure Route No. 5.” The stage-ride from the Crawford and Fabyan Houses to the Mount Washington Railway Station is one of the most exciting features of mountain travel. - $º * The falls of the Am- In Olloosuc. are passed by the way side, and a re well w U 1 Lll a visit. Here the rocks have been worn by the action of the wa- * ter into a : thousand , fantastic forms.The road leads ---- through a Vº V primeval for est : luxuriant wines laden with fruit and berries spring from the virgin soil, often tempting the visitor from the carriage. We occasionally catch a glimpse of the grand old mountain, as it raises its granite head above the clouds. The ascent of Mount Washington was once a feat of rare occurrence, accomplished only by the daring hunter or adventurous trav- eller; but the industry and perseverance of man have smoothed the way; and the route has been made easy, safe, and pleasant. To accompany an aeronaut, to look out upon the surrounding world, has been the desire of many, though enjoyed by few. Here the “iron horse,” guided by the hand of genius, climbs triumphantly to the dizzy height of 6,285 feet, more than a mile in the air, where the “storm- king,” riding on the wings of the whirlwind, have hitherto reigned su- AMMONOOSUC FALLS. 62 PopUIAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. preme; and yet all this is done in absolute safety, and with as much ease as the same distance could be accomplished over any road in the country. The ascent should be made the subject of some preparation. To at- tempt it improperly clothed would risk the pleasure of the excursion. You may not meet a snow storm, or find icicles hanging from the roof in the morning; but you are liable to any month in the year. Ladies, particularly, should not relie upon a shawl alone for protection, but add a full suit of winter extra under-clothing. You will find the house on the summit heated by steam, and a cheerful fire in the grate; but you should not, for want of proper clothing, lose the opportunity for out-of-door pleasures. cending and descending are supremely grand. To stand upon the summit of Mount Washington is the one desire of overy visitor to the mountain region. Here, from the highest point on the Atlantic slope, he can look down upon this vast panorama of hills and valleys, cities and plains, dotted with a thousand silvery lakes blended into one harmonious whole. Without putting foot upon the ground, he is lifted step by step up this rugged steep, to the very doors of the Hotel, which, bound with chains to the barren cliff, has been built and furnished to receive him. - The Mount Washington Summit House accommodates con- veniently one hundred and seventy-five guests, though more than two hundred have been entertained. Several thousand persons visited it dur- ing the past season. Its appointments are very complete. Lighted by gas, and heated by steam, with all modern improvements, a liberal table, and good attendance, the visitor can be made comfortable for any length of time. Stages run from the railroad depot to all the prominent houses, enabling tourists to return by any route they choose. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 63 PLEASU FE FOUTE NO. 2. Boston and Vicinity to the Summer Resorts of Northern Vermont, Lake Memphremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. PASSUMPSIC AND SOUTH-EASTERN RAILROADS. Tourists go by Pleasure Route No. 1, by Lowell or Lawrence, Man- chester, Concord, Plymouth (twenty minutes for dinner), to Wells River Junction. A short distance south from Wells River, at Newbury Station, the visitor will find Newbury Sulphur Springs. They are located near the village, and are a favorite resort of invalids and travellers, being well recommended by the medical faculty. The village, which is rurally pleasant, commands a fine view of the Connecticut River, and the rugged hills of New Hampshire beyond. Mount Pulaski is near at hand, and the whole surface is charmingly diver- sified. If from this point we continue up the river by the “Passumpsic” due north, along a route rich in landscape beauties, passing en route the thriving village of St. Johnsbury, after an hour's ride we reach the quiet station of West Burke, from whence by stage a half dozen miles, we are taken to Willoughby Lake, which, although inferior in size to many lakes in New England, has no superior in picturesque variety and beauty. It is favorably known to the travelling public as a summer resort, and is situated between two high mountains, Annamance (Wil- loughby) and Hor, which rise abruptly from its shores. The water is of remarkable depth : Over six hundred feet sounding has failed to find bottom. Willoughby Lake is six miles long, and about two in width. A pleasure-drive has been constructed along the east side. There are many points of rare interest in the neighborhood, among which are Mount Annamance, Mount Hor, Silver Cascade, Point of Rocks, &c. Mount Annanance, or Willoughly as it is generally called, thirty- eight hundred feet high, derives its name from that of an Indian chief of the St. Francis tribe, who here made his home. This elevation is generally visited on foot, the path leading up through a beautiful forest with occasional glimpses of the lake, whose quiet waters lave the rocks below. It is not, however, until the summit is reached that the visitor realizes the richness of the scene about to be spread out before him. A fine panoramic view, embracing the Connecticut Valley, the Franconia and White Mountains of New Hampshire, the nearer peaks of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, Killington, and Jay; Owl's Head in Canada, and the Adirondacks of New York, in the distance; while near at hand the beautiful waters of Willoughby Lake, and the bold outline of Mount Hor which rises beyond, -serve to form one of the most effective Scenes in New England. 64 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. CANADA AND THE PROVINCES. Lake Memphremagog is the connecting link between the summer resorts of New England and Canada, more than half its surface being in the latter country. It is the next point of interest after leaving West Burk Station. It is an unusually pleasing sheet of water, about thirty miles long, hemmed in by bold, rugged mountains, traversed by pleasure- boats, from whose decks, as they steam along its quiet surface, rich views of the surrounding Scenery may be had. The lake varies from two to four miles in width, its bold shores and numerous islands contributing wonderfully to the interest of the scene. The village of Newport, Vt., located at the southern extremity, is already an inland watering-place of considerable repute, and its fine summer houses are rapidly increas- ing in fame and popularity. Bolton Springs in Canada, fourteen miles distant ; Clyde River Falls, two miles; Mount Morrill, two miles; Bear Mountain, seven miles, and Prospect Hill, close at hand, - these are among the points of interest near Newport. From Prospect Hill a charming view is presented, not only of the lake and mountains near by ; but Mount Annamance, Jay Peak, Orford, Elephantis, and Owl's Head, are all visible, and, with the lake and its picturesque islands, combine to form an exceedingly interesting landscape. Owl's Head, Canada, a conical peak of singular formation, having an altitude of nearly three thousand feet, rises from the west shore of Lake Memphremagog. Steamers en route from Newport to Magog make a landing at its base. The ascent is made from the Mountain House, a half-mile distant, by a footpath. The view from its summit is unusu- ally fine, and well repays the hard climb to secure it. Round Island, Minnow Island, and Skinner’s Island, with its cave of legendary fame, are among the local attractions. Mount Elephantis guards the western shores of Lake Memphre- magog. It is not visited as much as Owl's Head; but its attractions are enhanced by a sparkling lake, two miles in length, far up its side, which is noted alike for the crystal purity of its waters, and the abund- ance of trout it contains. * Mount Orford is one of the attractions of the village of Magog. It is reached by a pleasant drive, and a carriage-road extends to its sum- mit. It is the highest peak in the vicinity, and commands a fine pros- pect. The village of Magog is also visited daily by stage, sixteen miles from Sherbrooke on the Grand Trunk Railway. & POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 65 Pinnacle Mountain and Lake are about ten miles from Stanstead, but have not yet attained great popularity. The mountain is the most singular feature, rising with great precipitousness from the lake below. Lake Massawippi, on the line of the Passumpsic Railroad, affords rare sport for the fisherman. It is only about a mile and a half in width, yet extends for nine miles. It is overlooked by Blackberry Moun- tain, which rises from its eastern shore. Lachine Rapids are among the most thrillingly fascinating attrac- tions in the vicinity of Montreal; a visit to which is usually made by the cars, and the return by steamer. “The Lachine Rapids are visited by taking the seven, A.M., train (at the Bonaventure Station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal, arriving about nine, A.M. After taking a pilot from the Indian village of Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur breaks upon the eye : waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms, by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the head- long impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid ; now pass- ing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear. Did she even diverge in the least from. her course, if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters: on every side of it are breakers, like dense avalanches thrown high into the air. “Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of ‘below the rapids.’” The Falls of The Shawanegan are visited from the city of Three Ičivers, usually in canoes. Notwithstanding the magnitude and grandeur of these attractions, the difficulty of reaching them has detracted mate- rially from their popularity. They are on the St. Maurice River, thirty miles above the city of Three Rivers. The towering rocks which set their bounds rise on either side, between which the stream makes a fearful plunge of one hundred and fifty feet. 66 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. PLEASURE FOUTE No. 3. Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, DOver, and Portsmouth, to Portland and the East, Lake Winnepesaukee, North Conway, and the White Mountains. § EASTERN RAI I, IR () AD. THE Eastern Railroad, aside from leading directly to the popular watering places in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine, and being the through line to Bangor, St. John, and the Provinces, is also one of the principal routes of approach to Lake Winnepesaukee and North Con- way; and, in its intersection with the “Portland and Ogdensburg,” to the White Mountains proper, through the picturesque valley of the Saco, and the famous White Mountain Notch. Of the four depots in the northern section of the city of Boston, the “Eastern '’ holds a central position, and is in the immediate proximity of each. It is also connected with those of the southern portion of the city by horse-railways, rendering it easy of access for strangers. This road extends from Boston to Portland, and Boston to North Conway, with a lju ailcſi tu Wolfboro’. There arc also several other branches; viz., Saugus, Swampscott, Marblehead, Salem and Lawrence, South Reading, Gloucester, Essex and Amesbury, and Portsmouth and Dover. No route in New England possesses more varied charms for the tourist and pleasure-seeker. Twenty-eight seashore-resorts are reached by the Eastern Railroad and its branches; the more prominent of which are Chelsea, or Revere, Nahant, Swampscott, Marblehead, Lowell Island, Gloucester, Rockport, Pigeon Cove, Plumb Island, Salisbury, Hampton or Boar’s Head, Little Boar’s Head, Rye, Isles of Shoals, Kittery, York, Wells, Cape Arundel, Old Orchard, Mount Desert, and all others in Maine. Most of these are directly on the main line of this road, and all in close proximity to it. Chelsea, Mass., was one of Starr King’s favorite spots for sight- seeing. “Powder-horn Hill,” with its remarkable pictures extending over a circle of miles, was a special object of frequent visits with the scholarly and enthusiastic young preacher, the rising or the setting of the sun being his chosen times for studying its wonderful beauties. The name has been arbitrarily altered to “The Highlands,” which is more preten- tious, certainly; but old names, after all, cling closest to historic associa- tions. The “Eastern Railroad'' and horse-cars pass through the city. Chelsea Beach (Revere) is no part of Chelsea proper: it possesses many points of interest, and its proximity to Boston makes it a place of great resort in the hot months. A line of horse-cars connects it with Boston. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. § 67 Nahant, Mass., is among the mature celebrities of the New-Eng- land coast. It is one of those rare combinations of natural and remark- able beauties which assert their superiority without the need of art or special praise. Yet Nahant is a lesson. It teaches the fickleness of human fancy, and the uncertainty of popular favor. If this really charming spot were only located a hundred or more miles from the lead- ing marts of New-England trade, it would scarce find a rival in fashion- able and public approval. It is too near Boston and other cities, too easy of access, and too comfortable generally, to attract the great multi- tude, who prove that “ distance lends enchantment to the view º' of a summer trip and life, by seeking remote and out-of-the-way places in preference. Yet Nahant is so delightfully located, so varied in its scenery and surroundings, so dotted with wonderful curiosities of nature, so graced with romantic and ever-varying specialties, and so readily reached, that the number of its summer residents and brief visitors will ever be very large. It was the chief resort of the wealthy and the gay only a few years since; but the worshippers of fashion now travel to other shrines. Lynn, Mass., is a busy and thriving city, famed as the leading shoe- manufacturing place on the continent. A lofty and commanding emi- nence called High Rock, from which a singularly picturesque view is obtained, is the chief point of attraction to the traveller. Swampscott and Nahant, popular resorts, are contiguous. Trains on the Eastern Railroad, and horse-cars from Boston, pass through the city. Swampscott, adjoining Lynn, is a favorite with the wealthy classes of Boston and neighboring cities, and has numerous costly and elaborate summer residences. Its comfortable boarding-houses have attracted many strangers for a summer's sojourn. The chief industry of the place is fishing; and a very clever addition to the season’s profits is made by letting rooms and dwellings during the summer months. Gloucester, Mass., is the great centre of the New England fishing interests. Thousands of her hardy population pursue their perilous avocation at all seasons of the year, and upon all the great fishing- grounds, especially upon the Banks of Newfoundland. No season passes without its sad tragedies among the vast fleet which leaves the harbor of Gloucester. The sources of pleasure and of cultivated intercourse located around Gloucester are worthy of an elaborate detail, and are full of agreeable surprises and rare delights. Great numbers take the cars of the Eastern Railroad, or boats from Boston direct, in the travelling SeaSOI). 68 PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. Rockport, Mass., was once a part of Gloucester. This place will not attract a great deal of attention from sight-hunters, although its extensive granite-quarries will richly repay a visit. The famous and justly popular resort called Pigeon Cove is close by Rockport. This and other spots of novel and rare curiosities form a group of too much interest to be overlooked; and it has long been a fixed centre for a very large summer attendance. Few places on the New- England coast afford greater gratifications to visitors. Newburyport, Plumb Island, and Salisbury Beach possess a local fame, and receive considerable patronage from the towns adja- cent, but cannot be recommended to the general public. The bathing at Plumb Island is treacherous; Salisbury Beach is better, but the loose sands prevent driving. The town of Hampton, N.H., has little to distinguish it from towns of modest pretensions generally; but its beach – Hampton Beach —is renowned in every quarter. Boar's Head, a bold and commanding promontory, projecting a quarter of a mile from the mainland directly into the sea, is the hospitable castle which “lords it tº over the adjacent beaches. Here the admirer of the murmuring sea can find full scope for his admiration. The views from this lofty eminence are numberless and varied. The origin of the name is somewhat shrouded in mystery. Tra- dition says it was given by fishermen, from the # similarity of its foam-laved rocks, when lashed by the fury of the waves, to the enraged boar. This summer resort has been long and favorably known. The house stands on the crest of a rocky promontory, which rises gradually to the height of eighty feet, against whose jagged base for ages HOTEL. past the waves in ceaseless roll have dashed their whitened spray. On either side, stretching for miles away, extend beau- tiful beaches, whose waters furnish rare facilities for bathing, and whose hardened sands present a surface for driving not excelled along this coast. sº --- ---sºwn Little Boar's Head, North Hampton, N.H., is a connecting link between Hampton and Rye Beaches. It would be famous but for the superiority of its great rival, Boar's Head. It is a projection also into the sea, but of a lesser altitude. These marked spots, adjacent to such grand beaches as Hampton and Rye, are assured of a constant popularity. This is a favorite summer resort for families of taste and refinement. At present there is no hotel, but many excellent boarding-houses. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 69 Rye Beach, N.H., half a century ago had an occasional straggling admirer, or possibly a company from the back country, in the summer season, to appreciate its beauties, and enjoy its lonely solitude. But it has since acquired a distinctive fame. At present its popularity is widely established, and thousands make it their resort for recreation and rest. It is animated and exhilarating in “the season,” and is able to maintain its partial preference against all rivals of the coast. It is abundantly supplied with every source of enjoyment, — city, country, sea, and fashionable elegances and refinements, and all modes and moods of life, to suit all tastes. Portsmouth, N.H., has proved an admirable place from which to emigrate. It has one of the best harbors, rears the smartest of men and most charming of women, but the city persists in not growing in popu- lation. It is a grand centre or starting-point, however, from which to visit a vast number of famed and delightful spots; and it wears a thronged and busy air during the hot months. It has, in the Rockingham House, a first-class hotel, which in all its appointments exhibits an air of elegance and comfort, and is convenient as a “roost '' for travelling birds. Frost's Point, near Portsmouth, N.H., is a very pleasant place, and has a local popularity. The Isles of Shoals, off Portsmouth Harbor, have risen to wonderful fame within twenty years. Fifty years ago it was one of the places to visit, and have a chowder, and was noted for its wild and rugged features, even in those prosaic days. It is now a fixture in popular favor, and is visited by multitudes, who make a marked stay there in summer time. Its chief interest lies in its remoteness from the land, and its home in the sea. The entire scene is wild, grim, and barren, excepting the homelike comforts which enterprise and money have Sup- plied. We have written of “The Isles of Shoals '' as “it,” although there are half a dozen islands in the group; but we have always associated the places with the idea of but one. And old people still call them “Isle of Shoals;” and this is not far from correct. The eccentric Leighton, who really laid the foundation for the present great fame of this resort of pleasure, faithfully believed, that no person coming there, however sick, could die of disease if the invalid remained. Mr. Leighton, although living to a good old age, now rests with his fathers. New Castle is one of the marine suburbs of Portsmouth, three miles distant. It has a new summer hotel, pleasantly located. 70 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Kittery Point. — This quaint old Maine town, recently rejuvenated for a summer resort, possesses, in its historic associations, its admirable location, and its cool, exhilarating atmosphere, many attractions for the visitor who desires quiet and repose. Its principal hotel—the “Pep- perell House ’” — occupies an elevated and commanding site, and the harbor offers unusual facilities for boating and fishing. The government navy yard is near at hand, Portsmouth is across the harbor, and the Isles of Shoals in full view but a few miles away. Take cars on the Eastern Railroad to Portsmouth or Kittery Station. York Beach, Me., and, beyond that, Bald Head Cliff (a wild, stern, defiant-fist rock, in almost constant battle with the waves of the sea), are places of interest, and when better known will command their share of patronage. The run to these points can be made by stage a half dozen miles from Portsmouth. Wells and Old Orchard Beaches can also be reached by this road; the former by stage, six miles from Wells Station, and the latter, five miles by stage from Saco. There is little of interest between Saco and the city of Portland. For a description of the city of Portland and vicinity, see separate article. t TO THE INTERIOR. Leaving such of our friends as we have directed to the numerous watering-places on the coast to their own amusement, we return to the “Conway Branch,” to accompany those who desire to see that charming inland resort, Lake Winnepesaukee, to visit North Conway and the in- termediate points, or go with us to the White Mountains proper. The “Conway Branch '' diverges from the main line a few miles east of the city of Portsmouth, and continues northward past Berwick, Great Falls, to Conway and North Conway; another road branches from this to Lake Winnepesaukee, where connection is made by boats to all points on the lake, and with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad beyond. At West Ossipee the stage from Centre Harbor, with tourists that have crossed Lake Winnepesaukee, from the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, and Boston and Maine Roads, intersects with this railroad with which its passengers continue. Centre Harbor, Wolfboro', and Alton Bay are the three prom- inent places on Lake Winnepesaukee. The former is mentioned in Pleasure Route No. 1. Wolfboro’ is pleasantly located on the east shore of the lake, at the terminus of the Wolfboro’ Branch Railroad, and has several hotels. Alton Bay is at the lower end of the lake, reached by the Boston and Maine Railroad and the steamer “Mount Washington.” POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 71 Mount Chocorua, N.H., 3,358 feet high, is most easily reached from West Ossipee Station. The trip to Chocorua, eight miles distant, is tedious, but amply repays those physically able to make it. This moun- tain is more Alpine in its character and outline than any in New Hamp- shire. The beautiful Chocorua Lake is passed en route, from whose borders one of the finest views of the mountain may be had. The surface, from far below its summit, is completely bare of vegetation. High overhanging rocks seem ready to topple from its craggy peak. The view from Mount Chocorua is a singular combination of the beau- tiful and grand. Hundreds of lakelets dot the landscape, increasing in size to the charming Winnepesaukee, from whose placid bosom spring myriads of leafy islets; while northward the mountains rise tier above tier to Washington and the “Presidential Group.” The Ossipee and Sandwich Mountains are also visited from this place, which is sur- rounded by picturesque scenery, and must eventually become a popular resort. Indeed, this entire region, extending from Centre Harbor to Wolfboro’, embracing the towns on the eastern shore of Lake Winnepe- saukee, is filled with interesting localities, and is beginning to be annual- ly frequented by persons looking for the quiet, substantial requirements of summer life. Ossipee Lake is usually visited from Bank’s Hotel at this station. The road to it passes many attractive points; among which may be named an Indian mound, from which various articles of interest have been ex- humed, including arrow-heads, impléments of various kinds, and human bones. The locality also has its historic associations. The remains of Lovewell's Fort (built by Capt. Lovewell's band in 1725) are still pointed out. The lake once reached, a feeling of sequestered quietude reigns. It is less than half a dozen miles long, and the close proximity of Chocorua and the Ossipee Mountains increase the interest, and add to the beauty of the scene. Ossipee Falls, in Moultonboro’, within a few years have received many visitors, and as an auxiliary attraction to other resorts, are very fine. Passaconaway Mountain, N.H., 4,200 feet high, is one of those bold, unfrequented peaks lying west from Conway; and north-east of Whiteface of the Sandwich Mountains. At present it is but little known to tourists, and will only be visited by the adventurous spirit desirous of studying Nature in her primeval state. This mountain bears the name of a famous Indian Sachem of the Pennacooks, a warlike tribe whose ter- ritory embraced this region at the time of its discovery by the English. Go by the West Ossipee and Centre Harbor stage to Sandwich, from West Ossipee to Centre Harbor. 72 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Whiteface Mountain, N.H., 4,100 feet high, is the most noted of the group known as the Sandwich Mountains. The number of visitors has increased within a few years. The fine prospect from its summit is said to amply repay the arduous climb to secure it. The view of Lake Winnepesaukee is particularly fine. Stages between Centre Harbor and West Ossipee which connect with the lake boats pass through Sandwich, intersecting the railroad at West Ossipee, for North Conway and the White Mountains. This whole country in this neighborhood is exceed- ingly fine. North Conway is a pleasant little village located upon the banks of the Saco River, and is the central feature of the charming Saco valley. There are several fine hotéls, ranging from the first class to the com- fortable country inn; indeed, nearly every house is a boarding-house. The inhabitants are largely migratory, going and coming with the birds, and through the hot months of summer resting in the shades of Conway's famous elms, sauntering along her sparkling streams, or climbing her rugged mountains. North Conway has one noted moun- tain, – Pequawket, or Kiarsarge, as frequently called, though by this name it is confounded with Mount Kearsarge, in the western part of the State. Mount Pequawket is three miles from the village, has a good bridle- path; and a public house on the summit furnishes refreshments or lodg- ings for those who desire. Diana's Baths, Hart's Ledges, Echo Lake, and Artist's Falls are among the attractions of the place. At North Conway the Eastern Railroad intersects the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, by which tourists continue to the Crawford House, White Mountain Notch, or by stage to the Glen House on the eastern side of the mountains. The stage line to the Glen House is still in operation, and many prefer this route of approach. Goodrich Falls are passed en route; and it also leads through “Pinkham Notch,” one of the natural thoroughfares to the mountains. Glen Ellis Falls are among the most attractive in New Hampshire. They are in the woods at the right of the road, six miles before reaching the Glen House. Crystal Cascade, of equal height, is at the left, a mile farther on. Thompson’s Falls are still nearer the house. (For continued description to the mountains, see Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad.) POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 73 PLEASU FE FROUTE N O. A. Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Dover, to Lake Winnepesaukee, Wells, Cape Arundel, and Old Orchard Beaches, Portland, Mount Desert, North Conway, and the White Mountains. BOSTON AND MAIN E RAILROAD. WHILE the Eastern Railroad has run along the coast, distributing tour- ists at the various seaside resorts east of Portsmouth, the Boston and Maine, whose depot in Boston is in Haymarket Square, at the head of Washington Street, has kept inland, passing through several cities and villages to Dover, whence a “Branch '' leads up the Cocheco Valley to Lake Winnepesaukee, which is crossed thirty miles by steamer to Wolf- boro’ and Centre Harbor, and thence by stage and rail to North Conway, continuing to the White Mountains over the line of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, to which description the reader is referred for a continuation of the route. Returning to Dover, the road soon leads gradually towards the coast, which it touches at Wells Beach, an old and well-known summer watering-place. Coaches at the depot take visitors to the hotels, two miles distant. Kennebunk is the next regular station. Three miles away by stage is Cape Arundel, a new resort just springing into existence. The beaches here are short, although very good for bathing. Cape Arundel will be eschewed by the fashionable tourist whose pleasure comes from “drives” and “hops,” and whirls of excitement; but the lover of rocks and foaming spray, the student of nature in her wildest moods, should not pass it by. Old Orchard Beach is the next point of interest to the tourist. At no place along the New England coast has nature done so much, or planned such a magnificent beach, as here. For nine miles the surface is level and hard, and it has few equals in the country. As much can- not be said of the hotels. Good fair accommodations are furnished, nothing more, nor are the prices high. But with such hotels as those at Newport, Long Branch, or Cape May, Old Orchard might become the queen Watering-place in the land. From Old Orchard to Portland there is little to interest the tourist. From here he may go by steamer to Mount Desert, continue by the Maine Central Railroad to Rangeley or Moosehead Lakes, to St. John and the Provinces; or he may go to the White Mountains by the Portland and Ogdensburg, or Grand Trunk Railways. See description of Portland. | | | º º | | | | | º Pol’ULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH rii EM. 75 PORTLAND AND VIC INITY. Portland, the chief city of the State of Maine in point of population and commerce, is situated at the southerly extremity of Casco Bay, and contains about thirty-five thousand inhabitants. It is of considerable importance as a railroad centre, being the terminus of six different roads converging at that point, and of numerous lines of steamers constantly plying between Portland and New York, Boston, Eastern Maine, and the British Provinces, and is the winter port of three lines of European steamers. Its facilities for communication are excellent; there being despatched daily eight trains and one steamer to Boston, connecting there with points farther south and west, besides several trains daily for Montreal and Quebec, Bangor, St. John, N.B., and Halifax, N.S., weekly; also tri-weekly steamers for Bangor, Mount Desert, St. John, Halifax, &c., and steamers four times a week for New York direct. FALMOUTH HOUSE. As a pleasure resort, Portland is becoming well known throughout the country; and the number of visitors to the city and its vicinity is increas- ing with each summer's return. Not only in lines of communication, but in hotels and other accommodations, is she particularly fortunate. The “Falmouth,” “United States,” and “Preble” are the leading houses; each of these possesses its peculiar merits. The “Falmouth" is a first-class house in all its appointments: it is the largest, and is the only hotel in the State that has an elevator, a lux- ury that the weary traveller can appreciate. The tourist who concludes to “do” Portland will find rich materials for his sketch-book and his notations. The vicinity is not only rich in landscape scenery, but the climate is delightfully cool, the heat of sum- 76 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. mer being tempered by the pleasant sea-breezes from the ocean, three miles distant, which combine to enhance its charms. The United States Hotel is centrally located, and has been recently rejuvenated and put in condition to accommodate guests. It stands on Market Square, at the junction of Middle and Congress Streets, the principal thoroughfares of the city. Portland is built upon a small peninsula jutting into Casco Bay; and a ridge of land through its centre, sloping on both sides to the water, affords excellent drainage. At the east and west extremities are high elevations, known respectively as Munjoy and Bramhall, with fine drive- ways and promenades, which command grand and extensive views of the surrounding country. The observatory on Munjoy, which no one should fail to visit, is provided with a powerful telescope, sweeping the horizon in every direction, by aid of which nearly every summit of the White Mountain Range, eighty miles distant, can be easily distinguished. The view from this point seaward is magnifi- cent, embracing as it does the numerous islands of Casco Bay, the surrounding coasts, and an uninterrupted view of old Ocean, extending more than thirty miles from land, dotted with sails, and flecked with foam. The shady streets and attractive suburbs invite to charming walks and drives through their quiet avenues. It is visited yearly by families and parties who spend their entire summer vacations hereabout, inter- spersed with short-trip excursions in the harbor, to Mount Desert, Frye- burg, Sebago Lake, Winnepesaukee, North Conway, or the White Mountains, all of which are within a few hours of Portland, and of easy access. UNITED STATES HOTEL. Casco Bay, with its fifteen-score of islands, their rocky promon- tories and pleasant coves, their green fields and forests rivalling in romantic beauty the archipelagoes of Greece, is much visited during the pleasure season. The islands nearer the city contain a consider- able population; and their many good hotels and boarding-houses are well supported in the summer. Four steamers of good capacity and accommodations run daily between them and the city, making several PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 77 trips each way, and are largely patronized. The round trip is made in from one to two hours, and forms a delightful afternoon’s recreation. Casco Bay, the musical waters whereof sing sweet songs, even up to the margin of the discordant city, - Casco Bay seems expressly formed for the lovers of the romantic, the beautiful, and the wonderful. Here Nature has nestled the charms of the sea and of the land in almost every variety, -in miniature continents, rivers, hills, valleys, bluffs, beaches, wild rocks, soft verdure, fragrant flowers, and birds of richest WHITE HEAD CLIFF, PORTLAND HARBOR. plumage and sweetest song. Indeed, the dullest nature is moved with unwonted stirrings, approaching the poetic; and the man of sensibility feels a pleasure rarely found, all the more keen that the noisy and dis- orderly crowd have not yet invaded this undefiled paradise of the sea and shore. More extended trips are also daily made which are assuming a national popularity. Mount Desert, Old Orchard, Cape Arundel and Wells Beaches, Fryeburg, North Conway, and the White Mountains are all within a few hour's ride. '78 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. / PORTLAND, BANGOR, AND MACHIAS STEAM BOAT COMPANY. The steamer “Lewiston,” after receiving passengers from the East- ern, Boston and Maine, Portland and Rochester, Portland and Ogdens- burg, and Grand Trunk Railroads, and Boston Boats, leaves Portland from Railroad Wharf every Tuesday and Friday evening, at ten, P.M., touching at Rockland at five o’clock the next morning, Castine at seven, and arriving at Mount Desert at noon. One has but to glance at the map of Maine to become impressed with its wonderfully serrated coast, its numerous bays and headlands, Sand and gravelly beaches, rocks, COves, and outstanding islands, embracing some of the most delightfully rural resorts in the country. Many of these are passed en route, and the morning view from the steamer’s deck is enchanting. Mount Desert is the rising star of Maine’s attractions for the summer-home seekers. Apart from any little side-shows which may have been put up in the papers from time to time by shrewd and calcu- lating capitalists, Mount Desert has gifts that are all its own, and such as will continue to swell its fame as years progress, and its charms become revealed. Its area is reckoned at about a hundred square miles ; and it is, therefore, quite a little world in itself. The island might aptly be likened to a lot of marbles dropped from a pocket of a giant, provided a giant's marbles were small mountains. At least, the more notable and striking portions of the island are made up of a group of mountains huddled together, of a singularly wild grandeur. Upon one portion there is a sheer and almost vertical descent of rock, nearly a thousand feet from the brink to the deep water below ; and the progress of the explorer is constantly met by changes and surprises of panoramic and kaleid- oscopic beauty. Much fine soil is found, which is considerably culti- wated ; but the inhabitants are chiefly absorbed in fish-catching. Portions of Mount Desert are still primeval in their solitudes ; and Nature yet prevails in her simplicity and peculiar sovereignty. Hence wild game may still be hunted ; and sylvan streams are enriched by great numbers of the gamey trout. The indications within a few years are unmistakable that Mount Desert will take a rank among the families of the wealthy and fashionable second to none on the coast, or even on the continent. As soon as the needed capital decides to invest, and the newspapers open their trumpet throats to proclaim Mount Desert and “all about it,” the armies of summer pilgrims will commence the mighty march to grand and glorious Mount Desert. Go by steamers of the Portland, Bangor, and Machias Steamboat Company, or by boat from Rockland, connecting with the Knox and Lincoln Railroad. Good accommodations at South West Harbor may be had at the Ocean House, and visitors to Bar Harbor will be well entertained at the Rodick House and others. PopUI.AR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. 79 UP THE PEN OBSCOT. The scenery along the Penobscot is unusually fine. Summer hotels are springing up; and when this interesting region is fully understood, through descriptions and illustrations, it must become popular with tour- ists. In full view are the Megunticook Peaks (altitude 1,355–1,457 feet). They are near the pleasant river village, Camden, and form one of its attractions. Although of less elevation than many mountain resorts, they command views of rare landscape interest, combining moun- tains in the north ; the serpentine windings of the Penobscot, bounded by cultivated farms and thriving villages; and, south-east and east, Penobscot Bay with its thousand “sea-girt isles.” Camden is passed by two lines of steamers, Portland and Bangor, and Sanford's Independ- ent Line from Boston, both of which touch here PORTLAND LIGHT. Near the head of Penobscot Bay, and within twenty-five miles of Bangor the boats pass Fort Point, a place of much scenic interest, and famed for its many historic recollections. The ruins of Fort Pownal, built by the English in 1759, still remain. Near by on the “Point,” a summer hotel, the Massaumkeag, has been recently erected, which forms a commanding feature in the landscape, and which, from its cool loca- tion, fine scenery, and good fishing and boating in the vicinity, is receiv- ing its full share of patronage. 80 PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. PLEASURE FOUTE NO. 5. Portland to Sebago Lake, North Conway, and the White Mountains. PORTLAND AND OG DENSBURG RAILROAD. No more attractive route to and from the White Mountains is afforded to tourists than this from Portland, Me., up the beautiful valleys of the Presumpscot and Saco Rivers, by the lovely Sebago Lake, and through the famous intervales of Fryeburg and Conway, and the Wonderful Crawford or White Mountain Notch to Crawford or Fabyan Houses. In former days it was considered the most interesting of the many stage- routes to the mountains; the gradual and distinctly marked transition from the lowlands of the coast, to the higher and grander elevations of the mountain region, invests it with untiring interest for the traveller from the beginning to the end of the journey. The recently constructed Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad follows almost without deviation the old and popular stage-route, and without losing the attractions of the old highway, has opened new scenes of beauty; and, for the short time that it has been Open to travel, has already acquired an enviable reputation as a pleasure route, and will, as it becomes better known, have an honored place in the itinerary of every visitor to the mountains, as the mountain tour is not complete if the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad is over- looked, especially that portion of it which passes through the “Notch.” The many lines of railroad and steamboat conveyance, centring at Portland from Boston and the South and West, make this city a most available point from which to commence a mountain trip. Portland, of itself, possesses many attractions, and is becoming celebrated as a sum- mer resort. Its fine hotels, beautiful walks and drives in and around the city, the magnificent views of ocean and inland scenery,to be ob- tained at various points within the city limits, and its proximity to many popular resorts of the seashore and country, make it a desirable stopping place for the pleasure-seeker. But those wishing to avail them- selves of a ride over the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad are by no means obliged to stop over at Portland, unless arriving in the city late at night; in which case a good night's rest will prepare them to enjoy all the more heartily the trip from Portland to the mountains. The Port- land and Ogdensburg trains connect closely with the Eastern and Boston and Maine Railroads from Boston, and the new through line from New York direct, vić. Worcester and Nashua, and the Portland and Rochester Railroad, and also with the fine steamers of the Portland Steam-Packet Company, which leave Boston every evening during the summer season ; and arrive in Portland in season to take cars POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 81 for North Conway and the mountains, which will be reached the same evening; passengers meanwhile enjoying the near approach to the moun- tains by sunset, the most beautiful hour of the day. The time from Portland to Crawford or Fabyan’s is but little over three hours; and parties going by way of Portland from Boston will arrive as early as by any other route. It will thus be seen, that, while rivalling all others in attractiveness, this route is as expeditious as any to the mountains. SEBAGO LAKE, Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad. A brief description of some of the more prominent points of interest will serve to show in a slight degree the pleasure to be enjoyed in a trip through its charming scenery; and the personal experience of all who travel this way will relieve us from any charge of exaggeration or partiality. Sebago Lake is the bright spot in our picture; but we will not anticipate. On leaving the station in Portland, the road passes around the western boundary of the city, along the shore of Fore River, that forms the 82 POPULAR RESORTS, AND IIow. TO REACH THEM. upper part of the harbor for which Portland is celebrated; and under the brow of Bramhall, a promenade much resorted to by citizens and visitors for its superb and extensive views of the country and the White Moun- tain range, ninety miles distant. It then crosses the old canal basin, and continues through an open country to Westbrook, five miles from the city. At this point We strike and cross the Presumpscot River, along the banks of which beautiful stream the road lies for some seven miles, through the farming town of Windham; affording many picturesque views of the river with its numerous water-powers, mostly unimproved, but awaiting the advent of enterprise, when their energy shall be harnessed to the wheels of industry, making this one of the busiest as it now is one of the most powerful of the rivers of New England. Again crossing the Presumpscot, and passing through a portion of the town of Gorham, we come to an uncultivated tract with deep cuttings, whose bare walls of Sand and gravel only serve as a reminder of the labor which was expended in preparing for our convenience and pleasure; here also, in a natural depression of the land, nestle the lovely Otter Ponds in calm and retiring beauty; another moment, and, without any previous intima- tion of their nearness, the broad waters of Sebago Lake roll at our feet as we dash out from behind a projecting bank upon the shores of the lake, taking in at a glance its wide expanse and distant shores with their outlying hills. Lake Sebago is fourteen miles long, and eleven miles wide in the widest part; and its deep waters, noted for their purity, supply the city of Portland, seventeen miles distant. Through its natural outlet, the Pre- Sumpscot River, it also furnishes a series of most valuable water-powers which never fail even in the dryest seasons, nor are subject to disas- trous freshets. The lake with its appendages forms a navigable water extending from the Lake Station on the line of the railroad, and at the southern extremity of Sebago, thirty-four miles, to Harrison at the north- erly end of Long Pond. This latter sheet of water is connected with the lake by Songo River, whose narrow and tortuous channel twists and turns through a course of six miles to overcome a straight distance of only a mile and a half; a lock near the outlet of Long Pond raises the steamers and other craft plying upon these waters from the level of the lower to the upper lake. Two steamers, in summer season, perform the round trip between Sebago Lake Station and Harrison, starting from either terminus daily, and connecting each trip with the Portland , and Ogdensburg trains; and the excursion thus offered is replete with , charming attractions, and is rapidly increasing in popularity. The trip to Harrison and return, including landings at Naples, Bridgton, and North Bridgton, is made in about eight hours; tourists may then go to , Portland, North Conway, or the Mountains the same evening. POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. 83 Sebago Lake, with its far-reaching landscapes and distant moun- tain views, the passage through the serpentine windings of the silent and beautiful Songo, and the fair shores of Long Pond dotted with pretty hamlets and thriving villages, offer an excursion of varied and exciting interest, never to be forgotten by the favored ones who partici- pate in its enjoyment. After leaving the Lake Station, the railroad skirts the shores for some three miles, then in almost unbroken tangent strikes across the country to Steep Falls, twenty-five miles from Portland. At this point we reach the Saco River, through whose lovely valley the road is laid until we reach its source at the summit of the mountain pass. Here, too, the tourist will observe that the land assumes a more hilly character: the surface which until now had the general undulating fea- tures common to New England begins to rise in abrupt elevations in- creasing in height as his journey extends, constantly changing to new forms of beauty and grandeur, and gradually closing in around him on either side as if to oppose his farther progress. From Steep Falls onward an endless succession of enchanting views gives an untiring interest to the journey. Ever-varying pictures of many-sided nature, harmonious and complete in all the elements of beauty, unfold themselves to the delighted gaze of the traveller. Mountains rising grandly from the plain in gentle slope or more pre- cipitous inclines give grace and dignity to the landscape; and the pano- rama, gradually changing from the broad acres of the lowlands to the narrow valleys of Conway and Bartlett shut in with mountain walls, finally culminates in the grand and inspiring passage through the won- derful Crawford Notch of the White Mountains. Passing through the town of Baldwin, after leaving Steep Falls we cross the Saco, and enter the town of Hiram; but just before reaching Hiram Bridge two pictures of the river are obtained in such quick suc- cession, and at the same time in such wide contrast with each other, as to vividly impress them upon the memory. After leaving the West Bald- win station, and crossing the short high trestle known as Breakneck, you will see on the left through an opening in the woods the Great Falls of the Saco, white with foam, plunging over a solid ledge a total descent of seventy-two feet. As if guarding the seclusion of the scene, there rise on either side high hills thickly wooded from base to summit, whose deep-tinged foliage and overhanging shade give a sombre character to the view. It is a picture of wild and solitary beauty, and is viewed to best advantage from the railroad. When we next see the river, it is in softer mood. The waters lie seemingly motionless beneath the shade of gracefully impending branches, its surface flecked with dancing Sunbeams which have pierced the leafy canopy; and as we obtain a 84 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. glimpse of the stream in perspective, retiring far within the deep and pleasant shade, it seems the very home of the water-sprites as memory recalls the fairy tales of childhood. But the picture is fleeting ; and with regret that we cannot linger, and enjoy its surpassing loveliness, we hurry on to other scenes; past Hiram and its hilly surroundings, and through the wide meadows of Brownfield, overlooking which stands Mount Pleasant, a mountain situated in the town of Denmark. We soon reach the beautiful village of Fryeburg, whose broad, shady avenues, en- chanting scenery, and delightful climate, make it a growing rival to the more celebrated North Conway. . - Good hotels and boarding-houses are found here; and the peculiar charms of Fryeburg, with its proximity and ease of access to various resorts among the mountains, make it a most desirable spot in which to spend the summer vacation. Before proceeding farther, a short notice of Mount Pleasant will not be amiss. This mountain standing alone, and rising in graceful outline to an elevation of nearly three thousand feet, is reached by a short drive of two or three hours from Fryeburg or Bridgton. A carriage-road has been laid out to the summit, and a commodious hotel erected upon the highest point of the mountain, where visitors are entertained in excellent style. The hotel has been opened only within two years past, but has been largely patronized; and Mount Pleasant has already attained a high place in the esti- mation of pleasure-seekers. Its situation, nearly midway between the loftier peaks of the White Mountains and the seacoast, renders the out- look from its summit one of great variety and interest. On the east side is seen the ocean with its white sails and crested waves, and the roofs and spires of Portland are also in view. On the west rise the stately domes of the White Hills from the symmetrical Pequawket, or Kiarsarge as it is sometimes called, to the towering peak of Mount Washington. In all directions the valley lies spread out in wide extent, adorned with lovely lakes and winding streams, and rich in all the charms of nature. Leaving the village of Fryeburg upon our right, we shortly cross the western boundary of Maine, and enter the town of Conway in New Hampshire. A fine view of the easterly slope of the Rattlesnake Range is obtained on rounding the curve just out of Fryeburg; and the broad interval, with its graceful elms, standing singly or in groups of pleasant shade, forms a beautiful foreground to the picture. On the left, as we near the station of Centre Conway, is seen the distant Chocorua, its bold, precipitous ledges sharply outlined against the sky. After leaving Cen- tre Conway we recross the Saco, and, rounding the Southerly spur of Rat- tlesnake Range, are quickly arrived at renowned and beautiful North Conway. PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. 85 NORTH CONVVAY, N.H. When the days begin to lengthen, and the sun runs high in the heavens: when the short nights fail to cool the heated streets of a dusty city, and man feels that he must have respite from the care and excitements of business; when the mother rises in the morning unrefreshed, CONWAY ELMS. 86 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. and the children grow languid for a change; when, finally, the family council decide that a few weeks' vacation must be spent in the country, - no place can be found where the cool mountain air blows fresher, where the crystal streams flow purer, or where Nature wears a lovelier garb, than at North Conway. Since the early settlement of the country, the praises of Conway's rich meadows have been sung. To-day her broad-sweeping elms and luxuriant gardens indicate the strength of their rich alluvial soil. - --- º - > Fº -- º MT. KIARSARGE FROM NORTH CONWAY. North Conway has an additional advantage, wholly and peculiarly her own. She has a mountain, -Mount Kiarsarge, – which forms an admi- rable objective point for her visitors. It is only two miles distant, and three more to its summit; yet the prospect from it combines some of the finest panoramic scenery in New England. A small hotel on its crest affords refreshments and shelter for those who desire. The climate of North Conway is free from mists and fogs; and with its pure air, and dry and invigorating atmosphere, it is one of the most desir- able points in the whole White Mountains for those who may be seeking health or pleasure. “And then the sunsets of North Conway! Cole- ridge asked Mont Blanc if he had “a charm to stay the morning star in his steep course.’ It is time for some poet to put the question to those bewitching elm-sprinkled acres that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, it is not Italian: for the basis of PopULAR RESORTS, ANI). How to REACH THEM. 87 its beauty is pure blue; and the skies of Italy are not nearly so clear as those of New England. One sees more clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, than in the compass of an Italian year.” North Conway is not only noted for the beauty of its scenery in the spring and summer months, but later in the season the bright tints of its autumn foliage make it more lovely than ever; and nowhere can the mag- nificence of the autumnal forest scenery of New England be seen to better alvantage than on her hills and mountains. º ſº Few localities - º ºº:: are better or more favorably inown to the * “artist world.” than North Con- way. The varie- ty of the scenery is particularly noticeable: while it possesses some of the broadest landscape a il d º mountain views, it is celebrated for the beauty -- - - - - --- and artistic value pianºs Bºrºs. - " of its choice “bits.” Although midsummer is the most fashionable sºason at North Conway, we have our own opinion that it yields inore pleasure when nature is fresh and redolent with the sweet breath of spring, or in the later season when valley and hillside are resplendent with the crimson and gold of autumn; and the same is true of the entire mountain tour. To be sure, the chilly nights must be prepared for; and, if properly provided for in that respect, one need fear no discomfort. At this point passengers who left Boston by the Eastern or Boston and Maine Railroads for the White Mountains join our train. Six miles from North Conway is Glen Station, where stages are in readiness to convey passengers to Jackson (two miles), or to the Glen House fourteen miles distant by way of Pinkham Notch, one of the three great highways which nature itself has hewn through the mountain wilderness. Six miles beyond we reach Upper Bartlett, shut in on all sides by high mountains, the situation possessing many elements of beauty, in some respects resembling North Conway and its surroundings. - 88 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. The railroad is already built from this point to Frankenstein Cliff, nine miles distant; with every indication that early in July the entire trip from Portland to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses will be accom- plished in the cars. Leaving Upper Bartlett, the road keeps to the valley for some six miles, delaying till the last moment the steeper ascent it must soon commence; and the mountains, in seeming displeasure at this bold at- tempt to penetrate their hiding-places, draw closer together as if to dis- pute the passage. But onward we ride into the dark shadows of the hills, crossing and recrossing the Saco, or leaping torrents rushing from the mountain side to join the larger stream. Just before reaching Bemis Station, we cross Nancy’s Brook, of memorable fame. At Bemis we shall see the old Crawford Homestead with its pretty clearing, and the residence of Dr. Bemis, built of granite quarried from these hills. From this place stages will connect temporarily for the Crawford House. Here begins our ascent of the mountain side ; and we shall reach the Gate of the Notch, nine miles distant, by a continuous climb of a hundred feet and more in each mile of the journey. The character of the scenery does not change materially after leaving Bemis, until near- ing Frankenstein Cliff, when the most magnificent view in the entire mountain region rewards our waiting eyes. Towering high above the beholder, stands Mount Washington in grander proportions than can be observed at any other point. Spurs of high mountains ranging from its sides, like strong arms held out towards us, protect in their rough embrace the valley of the Mount Washington River, of which we have a splendid view in perspective from its confluence with the Saco to its source far up the side of Mount Monroe. This glorious picture which words fail to describe continues in full view from the road, and is not lost sight of until we have passed under the precipitous cliff of Frankenstein, continuing our journey up the side of Willey Mountain. The railroad is most advantageously lo- cated for viewing the conformation of nature in this remarkable moun- tain-pass. Built upon the side-hill hundreds of feet above the old carriage-road, it overlooks the entire valley, and commands an unob- structed view from mountain-summit to river-bed throughout the six miles of the “Willey Notch.” The advantage of the open observation cars is now realized. The lofty battlements of Mount Webster, scarred and torn by the storms of ages, guard the valley upon the east, a silent witness to the terrors of the flood which ravaged its fellow guardian of the west, and, beating down the rugged escarpment of the moun- tain, prepared the pathway for commerce which we in later days are utilizing. Across numerous water-courses, and over deep and rocky gorges, or clinging to the sides of precipitous ledges, we ride, each PopUI.AR REsorts, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 89 moment revealing to us some new phase of mountain scenery. Just before emerging from the Notch, the line passes under the brow of Mount Willard, which stands a stern sentinel at the head of the val- ley, and overlooks the whole. From the road at this point we may look back over the path by which we have come, and gaze upon as grand a picture as the mind can well conceive. This view is identical with that from the summit of Mount Willard, already so celebrated; and because the prospect is nearer, enclosed with moun- tain cliffs on either side, and light and shade are seen with hetter effect, giveſ, more plas- ure than that from the higher point. We look down into the basin-like valley with its sides sweeping upward in graceful concaves; cascade and water- fall fumble from the mountain side; and the Saco like a sil- ver thread weaves in and out among the rocks and through the green tex- ture of over- hanging foli. age; while at our feet lic ã, the waters of 101smal Pool, secluded and still as if sul- lenly reluc- tant to move into the sun- light beyond. Across the valley the sparkling waters of Silver Cascade are seen, a mere thread of silver. Down from the mountain top it springs near a thousand feet in successive leaps, a rushing, boiling, foaming mass, till it joins the waters of the Saco below. 90 PopULAR REsorts, AND How To REACH THEM. Turning to the left, while yet under the shade of Mount Willard we reach the summit of our ascent, and, bursting through the narrow Gate of the Notch, are soon at the hospitable doors of the Crawford House. - - - It is four -- miles from = . Crawford's to the Fab- , yan House; and the rail- road, having passed the source of the Sago in the In ºtty lake- let between The Gate of the Notch and the lio- tel, follows the valley of - -- --> - .. º: º: s - - ºtu…" - - "sºzº º §swºre the Ammo *** = --- noosuc River WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH, for the re- From the Crawford House. maining dis- tance. After leaving the Crawford, and before we reach the Fabyan, another grand view of the Mount Washington Range is had, including the entire western slope from Clinton to Clay, and the summits of Washington and Jefferson, the highest elevations of New England. The completed portion of this division of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad terminates at the doors of the Fabyan House, where connection is made with the “Boston, Concord, and Montreal; ” and with the Mount Washington Turnpike and Railway, for the ascent of Mount Washington; but the road is located from this point through the pleas- ant towns of Carroll and Whitefield to the Connecticut River, passing within easy distance of Jefferson Hill, the favorite resort of Starr King. - From the Connecticut the line, already mostly built and in operation, will cross the splendid farming country of Northern Vermont to the head of Lake Champlain, with branches to Montreal and Burlington. There are many attractions near the Crawford House, besides those already named, that will command the attention of the tourist, — Gibbs Falls, Beecher's Cascades, Mount Willard, Willey House, Sylvan Glade, and many others. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 91 For the lover of the wild and picturesque, the tourist will find ample opportunities to gratify his taste by a visit to Gibbs Falls, particularly if the stream is traced to its source at the base of the mountains. This locality was examined and the falls sketched by the writer in 1857, and named for the (then) proprietor of the Crawford House. Beecher's Falls have been popularized by the interest taken in them by their noted namesake. ' The “Notch" is the great natural gateway to the White. Mountains proper. Mounts Webster and Willard form its outstanding pillars. The scenery is grander than by any other approach. Nowhere can this be so well realized as from the summit of Mount Willard, which, with its admirable carriage-way, must always be one of the most popular resorts in this region. The “Gate of the Notch,” flanked by perpendicular ledges, is but twenty-four feet wide; through which passes the carriage- road, and flow the waters of the Saco, which rises a short distance above. The Crawford House is also the starting-point of the only bridle-path to Mount Washington, which no person physically able should fail to visit. The path enters the forest at the house, through which it winds its way by a rough course to the summit of Mount Clinton; thence continuing by a rugged pathway over (or around) Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, Mount Monroe, to Mount Washington. The route follows the crest of the mountains, and affords a combination of the finest views in the region, — one of the grandest of which embraces that stupendous gulf, Tucker- man’s Ravine, which falls sheer down a thousand feet. This not only forms one of the wildest retreats about the mountains, but it generally con- tains an individual feature of interest, the snow-arch. During the winter months, the north-west winds completely fill this chasm with Snow, which, packed by the driving storms of wind and sleet, by the warm rains of spring and the hot sun of summer, settles to a firm, compact mass. As the swollen streams pass beneath, the snow is melted. The massive bowl- ders which fill the valley become the base of so many ice-pillars, which remain and uphold the enormous snow-arch above. On the 12th of August, 1857, the writer entered this cavern to the distance of three hundred feet, and, by estimate, found the snow still twenty-five feet thick. It all passes away, however, by the last of August or the first of September. Tuckerman's Ravine can be visited from the Summit or from the Glen House. The bridle-path excursion, about nine miles, is frequently made by pe- destrians. But no one should attempt it without being well shod; and the sudden accumulation of clouds and mists on the mountains renders an ex- perienced guide indispensable. The “Crawford ” has always been noted for its admirable cuisine, and will be found withal one of the most desir- able houses at the mountains. It is also reached by the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, to the Fabyan House, and thence by Crawford House coach. 92 PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. PLEASURE FOUTE No. 6. Portland to the White Mountains, Lake Umbagog, and Rangeley Lakes, Montreal, Quebec, Thousand Islands, Miagara Falls, and the West. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. THE Grand Trunk Railway connects in Portland with all roads run- ning east and west. The approach to the White Mountains from Port- land and the East by this line presents many points of individual interest. This is also a favorite route to Lake Umbagog, and the Rangeley Lakes ; and when properly understood, through description and illustrations, must prove an excursion of great popularity. In this connection a few of the more important objects of interest will be described ; although general illustrations must be deferred to a future edition. Leaving Portland, the line of the road soon enters he valley of the Androscoggin, up which it continues surrounded by the beautiful scenery for which this region is noted. Bethel, a fine summer resort of local fame, possesses the elements of popularity, and, when better known, will be sought for its many attractions. It has much the character of North Conway, and each year increases in popularity. - Lake Umbagog is reached by stage twenty-six miles through scenes of various interests, and, like most of these inland sheets of water, the fish- ing is good. Rumford Falls in the hilly town of Rumford, Me., on the Andros- coggin River, for height, rugged grandeur, and picturesque beauty, have no superiors in New England. In three rapid and successive leaps the river makes a quick descent of over one hundred and fifty feet. The interest in the falls is greatly enhanced by the wildness of the surround- ings. Reached by the Grand Trunk Railroad to Bryant’s Pond Station, and thence by stage. Near the station at Gorham, N.H., are located several mountains of considerable fame. One of the first points of interest is Mount Hayes, one of the north-eastern spurs of the White Mountains, an elevation of twenty-five hundred feet. It rises from the eastern bank of the Andros- coggin River; and, before the Alpine House was destroyed by fire, a visit to this mountain was a popular excursion for its guests. A foot-path leads to the summit where is obtained a fine view of Mount Washington and neighboring peaks. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 93 Mount Moriah, N.H., having an altitude of forty-seven hundred feet, rises from the valley of the Androscoggin, near Mount Hayes, north-east from the White Mountains proper. In a region where moun- tains were less common, this would be worthy of more attention. A bridle- path once led to the Summit ; but it is now neglected, and out of repair. Mount Surprise is another name for one portion of Mount Moriah. This mountain is generally visited for the fine view of Pinkham Notch which it affords. It has had less visitors since the destruction of the Alpine House, but it has always been one of the favorites with tourists to the mountains. It has a good bridle-path; but, although saddle-horses can be always obtained, it is much visited on foot. The summit com- mands a very fine view of the White Mountain group. It is reached from the Gorham Station of the Grand Trunk Railroad. Visitors to the Glen House go by stage eight miles from Gorham Station; from thence a carriage-road extends up Mount Washington. The Glen is one of the largest summer resorts in the White Moun- tain region. This fine establishment occupies a most picturesque loca- tion in the beautiful valley of the Peabody River, within a few rods of Monnt Washington Summit Carriage-Road (which is one of the best constructed roads in the country), commanding a fine view, from base to summit, of Mounts Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison, head of Tuckerman Ravine, and the Carter Range, — forming one of the finest panoramas to be obtained in the whole mountain region of New Hamp- shire. - Other points of especial interest in the vicinity are Glen Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, &c. Berlin Falls, N. H. — Whoever shall have made the tour from Gor- ham to the Rangeley Lakes, and sailed across the charming Umbagog, where the wild Androscoggin gathers its head-waters preparatory for a race to the sea, and neglected to visit Berlin Falls, will have missed one of the most attractive features of that enjoyable excursion. Here, indeed, for the space of a mile, is one continuous rush and roar of waters, one wild, foaming cascade. Walls of adamantine rock crowd the Androscoggin into a narrow space through which it rushes, and in its mad career falling, tumbling, boiling among the rocks, a mass of glitter- ing spray. They are but a half-dozen miles distant from Gorham Station. Dixville Notch, Connecticut Lake, and Stratford Peaks, described in Pleasure Route No. 1, are also reached by this, which is also one of the principal thoroughfares to Montreal, Quebec, and the West. 94 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. PLEASU FE FOUTE No. 7. Portland to Lewiston, Farmington, Rangeley Lakes, Bath, Augusta, Moosehead Lake, Bangor, St. John, and the Provinces. MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD. THE Maine Central Railroad is a continuation of the Eastern, and connects in Portland with the Boston and Maine, Portland and Ogdens- burg, Portland and Rochester, and Grand Trunk Railroads, and Boston, Mount Desert, Machias, and Bangor boats. The Rangeley Lakes are perhaps, at this time, receiving more attention from tourists than any other section of Maine; not only from their individual attractions, but from their wild surroundings. The complete tour, with its boating and portage, possesses just enough adventure to give romance to the occasion. This remarkable chain of waters consists of several distinct lakes, connected by narrows and streams, yet forming one continuous water communication for a distance of over forty miles. Each has its individual name, but they are collect ively known as “The Rangeley Lakes.” There are, probably, few places in the country where trout-fishing can be more successfully enjoyed. They are generally reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, a place of growing popularity as a summer home, and thence thirty-six miles by stage. You will spend the night at Phillips, seventeen miles from Farmington, where excellent quarters will be found at the Barden House; and, rested and refreshed, the traveller will better enjoy the remainder of the journey. Indeed, so comfortable are the accommo- dations, so fine the surrounding scenery, and so excellent the speckled- trout fishing in the neighboring streams, that, in spite of itself, Phillips is growing rapidly to assume the character of a summer resort, in every thing save exorbitant prices. Many tourists arrange to spend several days or weeks here, for rest and recuperation. The proximity of Mounts Blue, Abraham, and Saddleback not only gives a pleasing variety to the landscape, but form objective points for short excursions. Mount Blue, Me., with an altitude of fourthousand feet, is but a few miles away, and is famed for the wonderfully diversified views its sum- mit affords. The region is mountainous and picturesque, and is noted for the pure water of its streams, and for its invigorating atmosphere. Mount Blue is reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, thence by stage to Weld, fifteen miles, or Phillips, eighteen miles; usually the latter. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 95 º Saddleback Mountain in altitude is but little lower than Mount Blue; but, although affording fine views, is not yet so favorably known. Go by stage from Farmington to Madrid, or from Phillips direct. Damariscotta Lake, located in Lincoln County, is a resort just springing into existence. It is twelve miles long by three wide, at its greatest extremities; although its remarkable irregular shores give great changes in its apparent size. It is beautifully interspersed with islands: its coast is divided into sand and gravelly beaches, and rough rock- bound shores, frequently overhung and shaded by groves of leafy trees, which form delightful resorts for “picnic grounds.” A summer hotel has just been erected, and a pleasure steamboat placed on the lake for the entertainment of guests. Reached by the Knox and Lincoln Rail- road, from the “Maine Central.” Moosehead Lake is the largest and most important of the inland waters of Maine. It is thirty-five miles long, and varies from four to twelve miles in width. It is somewhat larger than Lake Winnepesaukee, but falls far behind it in notable characteristics and attractions. It is nearly surrounded by dense forests, and is much frequented by sports- men. Deer and moose were formerly plenty, and are now occasionally met. The special amusement, however, is trout-fishing. Still-fishing is also good. Moosehead Lake is a resort of increasing attractions. Mount Kineo is a bold, rugged bluff, rising precipitously from the east shore of Moosehead Lake, beneath the shadow of which, on a pro- truding point of land, the Mount Kineo House is situated. This eleva- tion is easily ascended, and affords fine views of the lake. The village of Greenville, at the foot of the lake, is reached by several distinct routes. Take the Maine Central Railroad to Skowhegan, thence by stage fifty miles; or by stage from Dexter Station, on the same road; or by rail or steamer to Bangor, thence by the Bangor and Piscataquis Rail- road to Guilford, and from there by stage twenty-three miles to Green- ville, where the boats connect with Mount Kineo. Lakes Chesuncook, twenty miles long by two wide, Caucom- gomuc, Caucomgomosis, and Allagash, are a chain of lakes on the head waters of the Penobscot River, beyond the lines of civiliza- tion, and only interesting to tourists as camping-out fields for sports- men. They are passed by canoes successively, from Moosehead Lake to Mattawamkeag or Old Town. A week’s supply of provisions, with experienced guides, will be required. Mount Katahdin can be visited en 7°0tute. 96 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Mount Katahdin, 5,385 feet high, is the most elevated mountain in Maine. Its altitude is but nine hundred feet below Mount Washing- ton; yet it is seldom visited, and but little known to tourists. It rises from a dense primitive forest intersected by streams, ponds, and lakes. The region is without public highways and hotels, and lacks those home- like conveniences and accommodations necessary for a popular resort; yet it possesses the very elements desired by the angler and hunter, and is much frequented by sportsmen. Mount Katahdin is reached from Bangor to Mattawamkeag, fifty-eight miles, vić, European, and North-American Railway, thence by stage thirty- eight miles to Patten, the nearest public conveyance, from which place guides are necessary. THE EASTERN PROVINCES. From Bangor, the tourist bound to the Eastern Provinces—New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward’s Island—by rail makes his first stop in the city of St. John, where there are several fair hotels, the best being the Victoria. Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, lies some distance above on the River St. John, and is a Inuell clealue1 aud pleasantcr place. From here the tourist can proceed to Shediac, and take the steamer for Summerside, Prince Edward's Island, a charming spot, from whence he can stage it through a beau- tiful and romantic country to Charlottetown, forty miles distant. The only watering-place proper of the island is a little village eighteen miles distant, called Rustico. From Charlottetown steamers can be taken to Pictou, the centre of the coal region. From there the distance to IIali- fax is made by rail, passing through Windsor and Truro, two important towns. Halifax is a quaint old city, with a few fine buildings and many dingy ones. It is an interesting place, however. Before leaving Pictou for Halifax, a visit to Sydney and the site of the ancient city of Louis- burg in Cape Breton would be time and money well spent. On the return, the tourist would either go by the way of Truro, and thence to Monckton on the Intercolonial Line through the pleasant towns of Sackville, Amherst, and Dorchester; or, by taking the Annap- olis Railway at Windsor Junction, pass through the most delightful por- tion of the Province, south of the Basin of Minas, and through the Annapolis valley, the scene of Longfellow’s pathetic poem of “Evan- geline.” Here are the famous dike marshes extending uninterruptedly for ten or twelve miles, the remains of ancient orchards, and the stone chimneys of ancient habitations. From Annapolis the steamer can be taken to St. John; or stage can be taken for Yarmouth, a large and important town at the Southern extremity of the Province, from which port there is regular communication with Boston by steamer. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 97 ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE FROUTE No. 8. Boston to New Port, R.I., Duxbury, Plymouth, Province- town, Hyannis, Woods Hole, Nantucket, Oak Bluffs, and the Coal Towns of South-Eastern Massachusetts. THE OLD COLONY RAILROAD. WHo has ever examined the map of Eastern Massachusetts, with its long arm stretching out into the sea, -the land of the “Pilgrim Fa- thers,” — without feeling a desire to visit it? From Boston to Narraganset Bay, the coast is filled with interesting localities, many of them identified with the early history of the country. The rockbound shores of Cohas- set are noted for their grand marine views; the beautiful harbor of Plymouth is surrounded by scenes replete with historic memories; the barren coast of Cape Cod is made interesting by the beautiful summer resorts which line its borders; the sail through Vineyard Sound, “the great high- way of commerce,” to Newport, with Falmouth Heights and the Elizabeth (7 Islands on the right, and K Martha’s Vineyard with |&\! Oak Bluffs and Gay Head tº on the left, is truly de-|| lightful, and cannot fail #1. to please. ºs To all these localities|& the Old Colony Railroad º s.ſºſ ſº leads. Its branches and Sººse sº connecting lines of steamers unite all these prominent points of in- terest with Boston and New York; and its admirable construction and superior equipment render it one of the most popular summer routes in the country. The original line extended from Boston to Plymouth thirty-seven and one-half miles, and from Fall River to Myricks, twelve miles. It now comprises a line of three hundred miles extending from Boston, the metropolis of New England, to Newport, R.I., and to all the principal cities, towns, and villages of South-eastern Massachusetts. A glance at the map shows the two routes between Boston and New- port: viz., via Randolph, Stoughton, Easton, Taunton, Dighton, and Somerset ; and via Brockton, Bridgewater, and Middleboro’, which 98 PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. unite near Fall River; the line to Provincetown, the end of Cape Cod; that to Woods Hole, the mainland terminus of the Vineyard and Nan- tucket steamers; the line to “Plymouth Rock,” passing through the Abingtons, Plympton, and Kingston; the Sea-Shore Line, through Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Nantasket, Cohasset, the Scituates, Marshfield (the home of Webster), and South Duxbury, the American station of the “French Cable,” to, and intersecting, the Plymouth Line at Kingston ; also the suburban Branches, “Shawmut,” “Milton,” and “Granite.” BOAT-HOUSE LANDING, NEWPORT R.I. No more beautiful summer routes can be selected for a day trip from the metropolis, than from these shore lines. Notwithstanding this was the earliest settled portion of New England, considerable sections of it still exhibit a primitive wildness. The following are among the noted summer resorts reached by the Old Colony Railroad : — Wollaston Heights, in the northerly portion of the old town of Quincy, is situated upon a beautiful eminence overlooking Boston Harbor and the surrounding country. Good hotel accommodations. Hingham. – This ancient town is a favorite resort for summer resi- dents, is situated but seventeen miles from Boston, upon the southerly shores of Boston Bay, has many agreeable attractions, both for the tourist and the temporary resident. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 99 Nantasket Beach is rapidly rising into popularity, although more of a local than a general character. The beach is long, and just like all the sandy frills of our Atlantic coast. The surface is hard, and admir- ably adapted to driving or bathing. It is but eighteen miles from Boston. Eleven light-houses can be seen from the shore; and it may well be pro- nounced one of the most delightful watering-places in the country. . Sailing and fishing are without limit; and tens of thousands flock to enjoy the varied beauties of the scene, and the soothing temperature of the coast and sea air, daily, when the heated term is in full power. Cohasset, which was sliced from Hingham, is a glorious spot for all lovers of the moody sea. Here are cliffy rocks enough, with a broken sea-margin, to insure a turbulent Ocean even in a comparative calm; and, when old Neptune is in one of his fiery moods, the scenery around the shores of Cohasset rises to a degree of sublimity and grandeur that surpasses description. The wild, picturesque beauties of Cohasset rocks form an admirable subject for the artist's pencil; and here the lover of the beauties of nature delights to linger. Marshfield, the home of Webster, will also attract attention. Duxbury is thirty-nine miles from Boston. A walk to Captain's Hill, where a monument is being erected to the memory of Miles Standish, forms a pleasant objective point. Plymouth. — Although the road to Plymouth passes through several thriving and interesting villages, the chief object of the tourist will be a visit to Plymouth itself, -a visit which cannot fail to interest him; and fortunately for his enjoyment, whether his sojourn is for a day or a week, he will find, at the Samoset and Clifford Houses, accommodations which will render his stay agreeable. Plymouth has a world-wide fame. If the orations delivered in honor of “The Pilgrim Fathers” were all printed in one book, it would make a volume fearful to encounter; for those famous “Pilgrims” landed there, as is generally known. Plymouth is a wholesome, steady, well-to-do town, with nothing remarkable about it except its historic notoriety. And yet the pleasure-seeker can find enough here to busy his hands. There is fair shooting at “the Point,” some nine miles down the harbor; and sea and pond fishing are abundant. But the harbor is not good for commerce; and the place will depend chiefly upon the direction in which its capital is utilized. At one period Plymouth was of considerable maritime importance. It is but thirty- seven miles from Boston, and is reached in a little more than an hour's ride. The town is well laid out, and pleasantly located, on ground sloping to the water. Burial Hill, above, commands a fine view of the harbor. Pilgrim Hall, with its many curious relics; Plymouth Rock, Cole's Hill, and Clark’s Island (where the Pilgrims “rested on Sunday, Dec. 10, : : : 100 PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. - 1620," before landing at Plymouth on the 20th), are all interesting places to visit. The vicinity of Plymouth, with its fresh-water lakes and fine drives, also presents objects of interest. Scituate is really a very pleasant place, and has many agreeable attractions both for the tourist and the temporary resident. The Cape Cod Division of the Old Colony Railroad extends to Prov- incetown, the extreme point of Cape Cod, one hundred and twenty miles distant from Boston. The fine harbor at Provincetown presents a refuge for the storm-driven mariner. The place is inhabited largely by sea- faring men; and its thrifty appearance is a fine illustration of what an enterprising community can drag from the sea. It is built on and sur- rounded by sand-hills; and the earth of its gardens, so green and beauti- ful, is mostly brought from the mainland. Branches lead from this road, from Cohasset Narrows to Woods Hole, and from Yarmouth to Hyannis, which was the terminus of the road before it was extended to Province- town. - Hyannis is a pleasant village, and, next to Provincetown, the largest place on the Cape. It is prettily laid out, and ornamented by shade-trees. The inhabitants are engaged in a sea-faring life; and many retired sea-captains and merchants have made this their home. The rail- road leads through the village a mile to the sea, where a fine wharf has been constructed. A growing seaside village, a short distance to the west, overlooks the harbor to Vineyard Sound and Martha's Vineyard beyond. A land company has erected a new hotel, for the accommoda- tion of summer guests; and many fine cottages have already been built, and others are in course of construction. The serrated coast from Hyan- nis to Woods Hole is alternated with fine beaches, summer resorts, and wild lands, where the sportsman and fisherman delight to roam. PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 101 The name of “Cape Cod” is synonymous in most minds with sand, sea, and codfish. For the delicate and sensitive devotees of fashion these words have no charm; but, for the more hardy seekers for novelty and pleasure, they indicate shooting, fishing, and pure air. The charac- teristics of Cape Cod, although having a likeness to the whole coast family of attractions, are, after all, peculiar to itself. It is not an island; and yetitis as really in the arms of the Atlantic as though it were alone in its waters. To be on the shores of “Cape Cod” is to have the alternating humors of the ocean, as much as though it were Nantucket. Of course, Cape Cod is not a town nor a city nor an island; for it is “Cape Cod,” and embraces towns, villages, islands, beaches, headlands, rocks, reefs, sand, salt, plover, ducks, coots, and codfish. It is of varied pleas- ures, found in numerous and peculiar places. TROUT POND. There is Cotuit Port, for example, nestled on high land, and in a charming location, almost romantic. It is also the rural home of many families of taste. Few summer resorts surpass it. It is reached by the Old Colony Railroad and connecting stages. Falmouth Heights, a rising place, with rare attractions, now in process of development by a company of capitalists. It is a delightful location, and commands a fine view of Vineyard Sound. The prospect opens to the south; the ground is high, falling gently from a wooded crest to the bluff, which drops thirty feet to the beach below. Serpentine walks and drives permeate the groves of oak, in which cottages are pleas- antly placed. A grand ocean avenue leads for miles along bluff and through the groves to the point of starting. A commodious hotel is open 102 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. to guests in summer. The railroad which leads to Falmouth Heights and Woods Hole branches from the main road at Cohasset Narrows. This locality abounds in fine landscape and marine views; and summer resi- dences will soon dot the scene. Woods Hole is a picturesque hamlet of a hundred buildings, located on a promontory, on the extreme southern point of the peninsula which forms Barnstable County. The harbor is small, but affords good anchor- age, and is well protected by outlying headlands and islands. This is the terminus of the road in this direction, and is the nearest point of railroad connection to Martha's Vineyard. NANTI Ick Fºl wharf. — THE ARRIVAL. Thirty miles out at sea is a tufted sand-bank fifteen miles long: on it is the quaint- est and most old-fashioned town in the Commonwealth. The zeal and energy of its hardy seamen, POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 103 who pursued the whale in its arctic home, made Nantucket in earlier times familiar to the British Parliament. Nantucket is now coming to the front as a watering-place. The facilities for the rugged sports of the seaside which it offers, its bracing and genial air, the many attractions that surround it, the absence of fogs, and the home amusements presented, the easy sail of two hours, – all commend Nantucket to parties in search of out-door excitement and healthy recreation. The town is specially commended to invalids who seek quiet and repose. Visitors can take their breakfast at the White Mountains, and sleep in Nantucket; men of business can reach New York or the White Mountains as easily as from Boston. The connections are swift and sure for travel east, west, north, or south. The town is peculiar for its quaint customs. Lectures, meetings, and arrivalsº are announced as of old by the bellman. Carts take the place of coaches, in which passengers stand. Young ladies invite their friends to a ride, back up a one-horse cart to the door, mount by means of a chair, and drivo off with as much sang-froid as a fashionable city lady would enter the park in her phaeton. Nantucket is full of surprises, and has many attractions. Its hotels and boarding-houses are ample: its athenaeum, library, marine curiosi- ties, its ancient houses of 1686, and the residence of the last of the In- dians, are full of historic interest. Oak Bluffs as a summer resort is an immense success, and its magical growth has fairly earned for it the appellation of the Cottage City of America. The sail from Woods Hole in the elegant steamers that ply between that place and the Vineyard and Nantucket, in connection with the Old Colony Railroad, is simply delightful. Buzzard’s Bay is studded with beauty and with places of rare interest. The entire fleet plying between New York and the coast passes in view of the prominent hotels, often bringing into view a thousand sail. This city of cottages has concrete drives, horse-railroads, a trotting- course, and all modern improvements. The great “Vineyard Camp- Meeting Association" holds its annual gatherings in the beautiful “Wes- leyan Grove,” adjacent to the place. Fully fifteen thousand visitors have been upon the island at one time. Hotels and boarding-places are num- bered by scores. . A narrow-gauge steam-railroad connects Oak Bluffs with Edgartown, and with Katama, the beautiful new watering-resort, about nine miles southerly from the Bluffs. Katama is situated upon the magnificent bay of the same name, has a fine hotel, and delightful still-water and Surf bathing, and attracts many visitors. The direct route to the Vineyard is via the “Old Colony Line.” Taking the cars at Boston, an hour is saved over any other route, and all sea-sickness is avoided. 104 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. Newport, R.I., is now the fashionable queen of all American watering resorts, for summer pleasure. With comparatively little of striking or romantic scenery, it has attractions peculiarly its own. Wealth and social distinction having approved of this really delightful location, the summer gatherings are of the gayest and most brilliant description. In elegance and splendor of outfit; in fame and beauty of its throngs; in all that invites the curious, the seekers after pleasure, the invalid's repose, and the glare and extravagance of fashion, — Newport is unri- valled. Indeed, this ancient and once renowned seat of commerce, after sinking into semi-oblivion, has been Rip-Van-Winkled into fame again, and is now in the bloom of a vigorous summer life, though still inclined to its winter drowse. The location of Fort Adams at Newport also adds to the attractiveness of the place. tºº. NEWPORT, R.I. Old Colony Steamboat Company's Docks. From the south, Newport is reached by the Sound Steamers of the Old Colony Steamboat Company, “Fall River Line;” and from Boston by the “Old Colony” Road. Steamers also leave Providence for that city, stopping at all the leading places of interest along the shores of Narra- ganset Bay. Perhaps in no particular has greater improvement been made in the last few years, than in the taste displayed in the construction of steam- boats and railway cars, thus greatly lessening the fatigue and annoy- ance of travel." A journey may now be made without losing for a day the comforts of home. Cars and boats furnished with elegant parlors, inviting saloons, and luxuriant state-rooms, are now found on all the principal routes in America. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 105 OLD COLONY STEAMBOAT COMPANY., “FALL RIVER LINE,” Between New York and Boston, vić, Newport and Fall River. The Old Colony Steamboat Company may well be said to occupy the front rank in this improvement; and its boats have no superiors in the world. Plying between the metropolis of the nation and the most fashionable watering-place on the continent, their saloons are constantly patronized by the élite of Society. Every afternoon long lines of carriages deposit their passengers at the company’s wharf, PIER 28 (Foot OF MURRAY STREET) North RIVER, NEw York CITY; and at 5 P.M. in summer, and 4 P.M. in winter, the signal gun announces the hour of departure, and these magnificent float- ing palaces, crowded with human freight, glide into the stream. Martial music, by Hall's Boston Brass Band, enlivens the scene, as the gayly- dressed steamer majestically threads her way through the noble harbor, made rich in panoramic scenes by the marine of all nations. The twi- light deepens as the stately vessel enters the East River, on her way to the placid waters of Long Island Sound. The scenery becomes beauti- fied by the enchanting villas that line the shores, the homes of wealth and beauty; and nought is heard but the exclamations of delight from the assembled throng, the merry laugh of the promenaders, and the intoxi- cating strains of the reed and string music which have replaced the brass band. Thus into the night glides this living freight, — faith, comfort, and contentment resting in the minds of all. The fleet of steamers formerly owned by the Narragansett Steamship Company (now by the “OLD Colony”) comprises the “Bristol,” “Provi- dence,” “Old Colony,” “Newport,” all of which are well known to the travelling public. - - If we had not been warned by the march of improvement in the past, we should be tempted to believe that steamboat building has reached its climax in the superb vessels “Bristol’’ and “Providence.” On crossing the gang-plank the visitor finds himself on a broad deck, surrounded by richly carved and gilded panelling. The deck itself is composed of alternate strips of yellow pine and black walnut. In extreme width, this main deck measures eighty-four feet. Surrounding that portion of it which we enter from the wharf are the various offices for tickets, luggage, &c. Large doors in the after bulkhead lead to the ladies’ saloons and state-rooms, which are appropriately divided for the use of ladies travelling alone, and for families with children, the most complete accommodations being provided for all. The main deck is divided into two general divisions by sliding glass doors. The forward part is used for freight; and the after part, which has just been described, is devoted to the use of passengers. From this after part, stairways lead 106 PopULAR RESORTs, AND How To REACH THEM. to the upper and lower saloons. These stairs, with their highly-polished brass steps and their carved and graceful mahogany balusters, are sep- arated from the open deck by a semicircular partition of woodwork and glass, which prevents the too strong draughts which a head wind some- times occasions. Entering this semicircular enclosure, we descend to the lower saloon and supper-room. Here, in long perspective, tables, glit- tering with cut-glass and silver, stretch away toward the stern of the boat. Just forward of the stairway are the china-closet and kitchen, where all the culinary operations required on the boat are performed, and whose meat array of shining cooking utensils would delight the heart of the most fastidious housekeeper. MAIN SALOON Of the world-renowned Steamers “Bristol" and " Providence." Leaving the appetizing scenes of the kitchen and supper-room, we ascend two broad and easy flights of stairs to the main saloon, which runs fore and aft nearly the whole length of the boat, with rows of state- rooms on each side, and, in fact, overhead, -for there is yet another stair- way, and another tier of state-rooms above us. The eight rooms which occupy the after part of the main saloon are for the accommodation of those who desire more luxurious surroundings than are sought by the public at large. These rooms far excel in elegance those of any first class hotel, and in size they are at least equal to the ordinary rooms of seaside houses. The other state-rooms, numbering in all three hundred, are large and well ventilated. They possess the peculiarity of having, in place of the ordinary fixed bunks, a kind of two-storied black walnut bedstead, which, being detached from the light woodwork, is compara- tively free from the vibration commonly perceived when a steamboat is PopULAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. 107 under way. Besides this provision against vibration, it will be observed that the partitious between the rooms are built diagonally; so that, instead of working with every revolution of the wheels, they form, in the aggregate, a powerful set of braces, adding much to the strength of the superstructure. The state-rooms of the upper tier are entered from broad galleries, which run around the saloon. These galleries unite at either end, and form spacious landings, on which are tables and chairs similar to those in the saloon; and the boats are lighted by gas. STEAMER BRISTOL Passing proposed Bridge between New York and Brooklyn. Taken by permission from Warren's Geography, published by Cowperthwait & Co., Philadelphia. At 5.30, P.M., daily (Sundays, during the summer at 6.30), passengers for New York leave Boston, from the depot of the Old Colony Railroad, con- necting with steamer at Fall River, leaving there at 7.15, P.M.; and at S.45 in the evening the boat leaves Newport, arriving in New York in season to connect with all through trains South and West. Passengers from New York, the West, or South, for any of the above places, can purchase tickets and have their baggage checked to destina- tion; and by branch roads will be taken direct to any of the delightful resorts to which it leads, without the necessity of going to Boston. 108 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. PLEASURE FOUTE No. 9. ExCURSION TO O.A.K. BLUFFS AND KATAMIA BAY- THE coast of New England abounds in beautiful harbors, charming bays, and quiet inlets, many of which are unknown to the public for want of means of communication. But the popular and increasing custom of spending the summer months at the sea-shore every year causes the development of new and delightful resorts, – localities whose quiet beauty frequently proves a surprise to the travelling public. Yet it has so often happened that a long time intervenes before such accom- modations are prepared, that tourists have hesitation in visiting any but the beaten tracks of travel. Very fortunately, however, this difficulty is being largely obviated by the action of business men, who, with a quick eye for the beautiful, and sharp discernment for the wants of the public, do not hesitate, on discovering a desirable locality, to announce it with STEAMBOAT "MARTHA'S VINEYARD ' PASSING OAK BLUFFS. hotel accommodations complete. Such is the case at KATAMA BAY, where the first building erected was a large and commodious hotel. The name of “Katama" is not a familiar one; and many will read it now for the first time. If such, however, will look at the map of Mas- sachusetts, they will see off the eastern shore of Martha's Vineyard a bay or channel separating it from Chappaquiddick Island, which forms the point. This beautiful sheet of water is but eight miles south-east from Oak Bluffs, now so extensively known as a summer resort. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 109 Tourists by rail to New Bedford connect with the fine side-wheel boats “Martha's Vineyard ” and “Monohansett,” of the Martha's Vineyard Line of steamers, for Oak Bluffs and Katama. The excursion from New Bedford is one of the pleasantest on the coast. We have a fine view of Fairhaven as we sail down the harbor. This town is pleasantly located ; and a number of beautiful private resi- dences, half hidden by foliage, overlook the water. An old fort, stands upon a rocky promontory at the east entrance of the harbor, opposite to which, upon an island, is the light-house. At this point we enter Buz- zard's Bay, and cross directly to “Woods Hole,” a dozen miles away. Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound are so protected by headlands and outlying islands, that the sail is delightful. While the coast turns back to the left, after passing the fort, on the right the main-land pushes out into the sea, forming a cape, on which Clark’s Point Light-house stands, and Fort Tabor occupies a commanding position. From this the bay opens to the right; and the main-land stretches away in the distance to a marked promontory known as “Round Hill.” “Dumpling” or Round Hill Light stands on an isolated rock off this point, beyond which is the main entrance to Buzzard’s Bay. The Elizabeth Islands are on the opposite side of the channel. These are individually known by their Indian names, commencing with the westernmost, as Cuttyhunk, Penni- keese, Neshawana, Peskeneese, Naushon, Nonnamensett, and to com- plete the rhyme, mariners have added, Woods Hole, Quequonkesset. Turning to the left, the main-land, extending towards Cape Cod, can be seen in the blue distance, with Black Rock, a dangerous shoal, lying be- tween. As we approach Woods Hole, the island of Naushon stretches six or seven miles away to our right. This is the property of Capt. John M. Forbes of Boston. His summer residence, and that of his son, form conspicuous features in the landscape. An extensive grove of beech and oak has been stocked with deer, where his friends are annually en- tertained with a genuine deer-hunt. The entrance to Woods Hole is narrow and tortuous, with sunken rocks on either side, requiring great nautical skill in its passage. The harbor is small, but deep, and well protected. A hundred houses, perched upon the surrounding hills, many of them quite beautiful, com- prise the town; the depot of the Old Colony Railroad being the most conspicuous feature. Visitors to Katama or Oak Bluffs who prefer to go to this place by rail can take the cars at the Old Colony Depot, Boston, and continue from here by boat. The light-house, with its beacon light, stands on a headland at the mouth of the harbor, and marks the entrance to Vineyard Sound. The sail across the Sound is delightful. Martha's Vineyard lies directly before you. Gay Head Light is seen far away to the right, while Falmouth Heights are on the left. 110 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. VINEYARD HAVEN. This town, formerly called Holmes' Hole, is approached between two headlands, known as the “East” and “West Chop.” Its harbor is indeed a haven for the storm-driven mariner; and hundreds of sail frequently lay here for days awaiting a favorable wind. The village of Vineyard Haven rests upon a hillside, sloping gently to the water. The town is old: several churches, a few newly erected residences, and an old wind-mill whose arms point to the past, form the con- spicuous fea- tures in the land- scape. By the formation of a natural dike across the south- ern portion of the harbor, a small lake, three miles long, has been separated from it, known - - - as Lagoon Pond, RIDING OUT THE STORM. which is noted for its fine oysters of artificial culture. A carriage-drive along this dike extends, via Oak Bluffs, to Katama. As we leave Vineyard Haven, and the steamer rounds the “East Chop,” we approach the locality of summer life for citizens from our large towns. Cottages and villas are scattered over the hillsides, which increase in number and beauty until we reach Oak Bluffs, where we have a rural city spread out before us, from which, standing in bold re- lief, rises a colossal structure surrounded by broad verandas, and sur- mounted by towering cupolas, - THE SEA VIEw House, – with the steamboat-landing directly in front. THE “Sea View” is the prominent feature of the town, which lies beyond. On either side, overlooking the water, and extending for thou- sands of feet, is a broad plank promenade, with seats the entire length. PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 111 At the right is a building one thousand feet long by eighteen feet wide, built into the bluff, protected by a heavy bulkhead. This is used for amusements. The side is of glass, and opens to the sea. In front is a broad promenade, provided with seats. The roof is flat, covered with concrete, and is also used for a walk, over which pavilions are placed at intervals, the whole overlooked by beautiful cottages. At the left of the hotel are hundreds of bathing-houses, with pavilions and seats for spec- tators. Steamboats and yachts crowd the landing, while the wharves, the verandas, the balconies and bluffs, are filled with the life and gayety of the scene. Over sixty-nine thousand guests visited this renowned resort during the season of 1874. -- º | L III I. SEA VIEW HOUSE. Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard. If the boat remains at the landing long enough to allow it, a visit to the “Sea View” will amply repay the trouble. From the wharf, the entrance is made through an ornamental gate-house, which is devoted to offices. In the tower at the right is the baggage-room, with a general railway ticket-office over it. At the left is the wharfinger's office, over which is the office of the Oak Bluffs Company. The basement of the hotel is approached by a private entrance from the wharf, by which the baggage and stores are taken, and, by the steam elevator, raised to any part of the house. Wide passage-ways extend through the basement, cutting each other at right angles. At the left of the entrance, opening to the sea, are the barber's shop, bath-rooms, and billiard-hall, beyond which is the engineer's 112 PopULAR RESORTs, AND How To REACH THEM. and boiler room, &c. On the right are store-rooms, ice-house, chill-room, laundry, bakery, and servants’ rooms. The house and promenades are lighted by Walworth's solar gas generator, with gas manufactured in an underground building, distant from the hotel. The Sea View House is approached by a broad flight of steps, leading to a capacious veranda at the east end, twenty-six feet in width. This is an important architectural feature of the house. It is three stories high, giving beauty to the structure, and comfort and pleasure to the guests. It commands a full view of Vineyard Sound, the great “high- way of commerce.” Ninety-five thousand vessels are reported to have passed Gay Head Light in 1872. The ladies’ reception-room is at the right of the entrance, with hat and coat and wash rooms, and stairway beyond. On the left is the gentlemen's reception-room, elevator, and office. Opposite the main entrance, the doors open to the dining-hall, which occupies the entire width of the building, with long windows open- ing to wide verandas on either side. The private dining-rooms are beyond. Broad stairways and the elevator lead to the stories above. - The public parlor, on the second floor, is pleasantly located across the southern end of the building, commanding, from its windows and bal- conies, an extended view in three directions. On either side of the pas- sage are private parlors and sleeping-rooms; and the two stories above are similarly arranged, with walks the entire length, affording excellent ventilation. Balconies lead from every story. A tank of two thousand gallons capacity, placed under the roof, supplies the water for the house. &= - The peak of the south tower has three fine sleeping-rooms. The north tower has two, with a passage-way leading to the lookout-room above, from the four windows of which a most extensive marine and landscape view can be had. The chapel is a beautiful structure, of ornamental design, and seats eight hundred and twenty-two persons. It stands on a rounded knoll, surrounded by a grove of oak. It is octagonal inform, with four doors, leading from opposite angles, and a gallery entrance on the side, in front of which stands the pulpit, with ante-rooms on either side. The seats on the floor and in the gallery occupy seven sections of an octagon, facing to a common centre. The inside is not plastered; but the painted tri- colored walls and ceiling, relieved by the ornamented framework, produce a singular and beautiful effect. The building is not confined to any particular denomination ; but any stockholder can secure the pulpit for a friend on any unengaged day. - The free and harmonious use of a building so beautiful lends a charm to the exercises, and, furnishing as it does a regular place of Worship, contributes largely to the popularity of the place. PopUr, AR REsorts, AND How To REACH THEM. 113 Circuit Avenue commences at the wharf, and extends through and around the town. It has a paved drive-way, with concrete sidewalks. Other important streets are paved with concrete. The town is emphati- cally a Cottage City. Within an area of one mile stand six hundred and ninety-one cottages. Among the hundreds of beautiful houses, of exquisite architecture, scarcely two can be found alike. --~~ Aw-- NºwWºwºw - - SEASIDE COTTAGE OF HON. Nºvºrtuº E. P. CARPENTER. Oak Bluffs is a delightful place, frequented by persons of culture and taste, which can only be partially described in this article, but will well repay a visit from the pleasure-seeker. Katama, on the eastern point of the island, is now attracting attention. The scenery at Katama was so beautiful, the fishing and shooting so unusually fine, that in 1872 a few gentlemen of means determined to erect a hotel there, and secure a building site for others who, like them- selves, should be desirous of leaving the heated streets of a town for a quiet cottage life by the seaside. The result was beyond the expecta- tions of the most sanguine; and forty-three persons came forward the first season, and secured lots, with the agreement to build cottages on them. The place has been artistically surveyed by a landscape-gardener, streets and avenues graded, and parks laid out. Summer residences are being built; and a town is springing up as if by magic. 114 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. Several of the managers of this enterprise are the same who made Oak Bluffs a success; the same whose lots, placed in the market five years ago at $100 each, have since sold for $1,600; the same who, in six years, from a single house, have built “THE Cottage. CITY of AMERICA,” with paved and gas-lit streets, – in a word, a complete town, clothed with taste, comfort, and picturesque beauty. And now the same energy and perseverance which succeeded at Oak Bluffs promise success at Katama. It is a short but pleasant sail across the bay from Oak Bluffs to the village of Edgartown, the spires of which can be seen in the south-east. This place was once a town of some enterprise; but, with the decline of the whale fishery, the young men have generally sought employment else- where. From Edgartown we enter Katama Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, some five miles long. It is of itself an excellent harbor, affording not only good anchorage, but is well protected from the winds, making it a favorable resort for yachting and fishing clubs. On entering the bay, “Mattakeset Lodge,” the model hotel of Katama, becomes the absorb- ing object of attention. MATTAKESET LODGE, Katama, Martha's Vineyard. The house stands on a commanding bluff, at the opposite end of the harbor, its symmetrical towers cutting boldly against the southern sky. As you near the landing, immediately below the hotel, its peculiar structure and singular location become apparent. The surface at Katama is an extended table-land, broken by gentle undulations, but at the coast falling abruptly to the beach below. In a single instance, by some natural agency, a pathway has been grooved through the bluff to PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 115 the water's edge, forming an admirable passage, of easy grade, from the beach to the plain above. Here a wharf has been built; and on the bluff, spanning the ravine, stands the hotel, under which the drive-way passes to the town beyond. “Mattakeset Lodge” has been constructed to afford the maximum amount of comfort and pleasure. Numerous balconies and broad veran- das, commanding a complete view of the landing and harbor beyond, surround the house; but the peculiar and favorite feature is an open gal- lery, which occupies the entire upper story. In the evening this is bril- liantly lighted by gas, and is entirely devoted to promenading and dancing. YACHTING. It is, indeed, a novel feature. Here, in the hottest summer's day, a cool- ing breeze is always felt, and the roar of the breakers on the south side of the island, scarcely a mile away, fills the air. The whitened foam, as the waves dash upon the beaches, which stretch away like a ribbon in the distance, is always an interesting object of contemplation. From this elevation, high above the surrounding water, securely shielded from the sun's scorching rays, hundreds of whitened sail can be seen. The admirable facilities for yachting, and the abundance of fish and birds in this vicinity, have induced the proprietors to make special ar- rangements for the convenience of sportsmen; while others, whose taste 116 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. •) for these amusements commences after the game has passed the culinary department, will have reason to be equally well pleased. Fishing parties from Oak Bluffs have come to be daily affairs. - Few localities on the coast possess better facilities for fishing than Katama, -deep-sea fishing off Cape Pogue for cod, haddock, hake, whit- ing, pollock, and halibut; exciting sport in sailing or trolling for blue fish, striped bass, and Spanish mackerel; still fishing in the bay, within a gun-shot of the house, for scup, tautog, sea-bass, and sea-perch. But the Sport in which Katama leads is in the serving of her unrivalled Clam-bakes; and, for the convenience of guests, a grand pavilion has been erected for their shelter. THE MIGHTY CLAM-BARE. Tradition gives color to the claim, that the great genius of Mattakeset, the famous and powerful Indian chief of the primitive days, devised the art of preparing the delicious and now world-renowned “ CLAM-BAKE.” Charles Lamb relates the remarkable way in which “roast pig" was re- vealed to the “heathen Chinee.” Doubtless the claim set up for Mat- takeset is quite as authentic as Lamb's bit of tradition; but it is not as full in particulars. Clams of the very finest variety abound in the region around Mattakeset Lodge; and the formula for composing and compounding a clam-bake, in the style of a fine art, is naturally found here. For general satisfaction, we now describe the process: — First, a huge saucer-like space is dug in the sand or ground, and is well paved over with stones. This may be called the bake-oven. To prepare the grand bake, the “oven’’ is filled with fuel, intermingled with goodly sized stones. This is fired (the combustible part): and after the stone portions are all thoroughly heated the coals are raked off. The “oven’’ is now ready. First, a layer of rock-weed is equally spread over the heated surface; next, from fifteen to twenty-five bushels of clams are thrown in, and then covered with another layer of rock- weed; and over that sea-weed is thickly placed. The heat of the oven is sufficient to raise a great cloud of steam from the water of the clams and the weeds; and in about half an hour, the capacious mound of savory bivalves is ready to be borne to the feast-board. Here, drawn but- ter, salt, pepper, and vinegar, or any of the more pungent relishes of the table, served in convenient dishes, are used to add zest to this notable and popular food. The instruments used to dislodge the clam from the shell, decapitate it, and submit it to the teeth, are simply fingers. Ex- perts at this kind of feed are wonderfully dexterous in the work, and raise huge piles of shells around them in brief time. This is a clam- bake simple. But, to have a compound bake of appetizing temptations PopULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. 117 most excelling, as frequently served by mine host of “Mattakeset Lodge,” lobsters, green corn, fresh fish, chickens, &c., are to be placed among the clams at the outset. With these additions, the rudely improvised feast becomes one not to be surpassed for lusciousness by the skill of a regiment of French cooks. In the opinion of many, the transcendent glory of Mattakeset Lodge lies in its unrivalled clam- bakes. COMMUNICATIONS. Katama possesses admirable facilities for communication by steamers, and the sail is delightful. A new and beautiful steam-yacht, of un- rivalled speed, connects with steamers from Woods Hole and New Bedford, at Oak Bluffs; or you can go by rail, a new and elegantly equipped narrow-gauge road having been built from Oak Bluffs to Katama. And the citizens of Edgartown, alive to the requirements of the public, have laid out and constructed a splendid drive-way of twelve miles, extending from Katama to Vineyard Haven, via Edgartown and Oak Bluffs. Steamers will run daily. In a word, every thing which experience can dictate is being done to make this a popular summer resort, and a pleasant seaside retreat. THE SEA-VIEW BOULEVARD. This fine drive-way, commencing at Katama, extends twelve miles along the coast to Vineyard Haven. It has been constructed by the citizens of Edgartown, to meet the increasing wants of visitors. From Katama to Edgartown it continues along the table-land to and through the village. A couple of miles beyond, it leads down to the sea, approaching it between two smaller bodies of water, which lay contiguous to and parallel with 118 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. the ocean. That upon the right, and nearer Edgartown, is known as Crys- tal Lake, – a beautiful pond, one mile in diameter. On the left we pass the foot of San-cha-can-tack-et Lake, which for miles is only separated from the sea on our right by a natural dike, evidently thrown up by some mighty convulsion, or by the action of the waves, beyond the present history of this region. The road-way has been built along this dike, which in places is so narrow that a stone could be tossed into the water on either side. This is a delightful drive; and, although of recent con- struction, it has attained a great popularity, affording as it does, to persons having objections to boating, the rare opportunity of securing an equally refreshing sea-breeze while riding in a carriage. Nor is this all. Midway between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs the dike has been cut, by the action of the waters, through which, with the tide, the current ebbs and flows. This channel has been spanned by a bridge four hundred and fifty feet long, affording a rare opportunity for fishing; not merely small, worth- less varieties, but blue-fish, bass, flounders, and others of large size, are taken in abundance. This was only needed to secure for ladies and chil- dren, or persons averse to boating, the full advantages of the exhilarating sport of fishing, shorn of the disagreeable annoyances of sea-sickness. The Sea-View IIUuse, at Oak Bluffs, is but three miles distant, and in full view from the bridge, which is one of its most favorite resorts. Indeed, the Sea-View Boulevard is one of the most enjoyable features of this popular watering-place. San-cha-can-tack-et Lake is three miles long, and from one to two wide, and is a favorite boating and sailing locality. Cultivated farms rise to a wooded crest on the opposite shores. The drive from the bridge to Oak Bluffs is along an undulating Sur- face, which will soon undoubtedly be filled with cottages. It affords a fine variety of landscape views, with occasional glimpses of the town beyond, - the Sea-View House always forming the most imposing fea- ture. Island Lake nestles quietly by the wayside, with a miniature island set like an emerald in its centre. STRANGERS IN BOSTON. Boston is well supplied with hotels, and, like every city, with cheap and expensive ones; but the Crawford House, which is under the same management as Mattakeset Lodge, will be found one of the most desirable for strangers. It is centrally located, in Scollay's Square, from which point all the city and Metropolitan horse-cars start. It is con- venient to all the depots, and is a first-class house in every respect. It is kept on the European plan, with rooms from $1 to $4 per day; and with four dining-halls the proprietor is able to satisfy his guests in style or price. I have no doubt strangers will find this a desirable home while in Boston and vicinity. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 119 PLEASU RE FOUTE No. 1 O. New York, Boston, and Vicinity to the Mountains and Springs of Vermont, Lake Champlain, Montreal, and Quebec, Thousand Islands, &c. CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD. THE southern termini of the great system of railroads known as the “Central Vermont ?” are Miller's Falls, Mass., where connection is made with the New London Northern Railroad; also at Chatham Four Corners, N.Y., connecting with the Harlem, Boston and Albany, and Hudson Railroads. It is approached from Boston and the east viá Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, Concord, and Northern Railroads to White River Junction; and by the Fitchburg and Cheshire Railroads to Bel- lows Falls, and by the Boston and Albany Railroad to Chatham Four Corners. From these several termini the various routes and branches permeate the entire State of Vermont, reaching into New York and the Province of Quebec. At St. Johns, Canada, the northern terminus, twenty-two miles from Montreal, connection is made with the “Grand Trunk,” and again at Ogdensburg, N.Y., the western terminus. At this point also the St. Lawrence and Lake steamers touch. A description of the route from Boston to White River Junction will be found in Illustrated Pleasure Route No. 1, as far as Concord, N.H., where the Northern Railroad commences. The first noted point of interest beyond Concord is Newfound Lake, located about two miles north from the quiet and sequestered village of Bristol, N.H., on a branch of the Northern Railroad. This delightful sheet of water, seven miles long by three wide, is surrounded by mountains, which from every direction are mirrored on its quiet surface. Sugar-Loaf Mountain rises in the west, and Mount Crosby in the east. The Newfound and Pemigewasset Rivers unite near here, and add their attractions. Mount Kearsarge, N.H. (2,461 feet high), is four miles from Potter Place Station, on the Northern Railroad, reached by stage. This mountain is not unfrequently confounded with another of similar name, Kiarsarge (see North Conway), which, in an air line, is sixty miles distant in a north-easterly direction. Mount Kearsarge is a place of considerable repute as a summer resort. Its isolated position affords a magnificent view of the surrounding country; the landscape is dotted by beautiful lakes; and far in the northern horizon are seen the Fran- conia and White Mountains with the Green Mountains of Vermont at the left. Visitors will find comfortable quarters at the Winslow House, which is located half way up the mountain side. The steam frigate “Kearsarge” was named for this mountain. 120 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. VERMONT. We strike the Central Vermont Railroad at White River Juno- tion, a railway centre of importance. Considerable stop is made at this station, to allow passengers time for refreshment at the admirable restaurant in the depot. After New Hampshire, the Green Mountains of Vermont rival in popularity those of any other of the New-England States; and of these Mount Mansfield (4,348 feet high), the crowning peak, is the most famed. This is an objective point from Stowe, one of the most fashion- able resorts in the State, which, when better known by illustrated description, is certain of liberal patronage. Stowe is reached by the Central Vermont Railroad. From this place the excursion to Mount Mansfield (five miles) is made by carriage; the visitor's path is shaded by a hardy grove, but the trees gradually decrease in size. To meet the demands of travel, a hotel, the Summit House, has been erected near the top ; which is largely patronized by those who would enjoy a sunrise from the summit. Mount Mansfield is the central peak of several mountains, each a point of interest to visitors. Sterling Mountain (3,500 feet high), separated from Mount Mans- field by a gorge known as Smuggler's Notch, a wild, romantic pass which derived its name from incidents in the past history of the region. The drive from Stowe, nine miles, is picturesque and pleasant. The most impressive view of Smuggler’s Notch is from Mount Mansfield. Here also is a profile rock called “The Old Man,” curious in itself, yet lacking the stern grandeur of its namesake in the Franconia Mountains. Bolton Falls, near Ridley’s Station, form one of the interesting fea- tures of that favorite region for tourists, of which Mount Mansfield is the towering sentinel. More than four thousand feet below Mansfield’s crest is a deep rugged ravine, overhung by frowning rocks, screened by foliage, and ornamented by mosses, lichens, and clinging vines. Here almost unseen this wild mountain stream boils and foams. Camel's Hump (4,083 feet in altitude) is but little below Mans- field, and is in the same neighborhood. It is also reached by the Central Vermont Railroad to Ridley's Station, thence by carriage six miles, to the base of the mountain. From this point, a carriage-road has been built three miles. A good pedestrian can readily make the remainder; but, for those who desire, saddle-horses are to be had. A Small summer-house near the summit furnishes refreshments, and serves for protection in case of storms. The view is fine. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 121 Sheldon Springs have long been famous for the excellence of their waters, efficacious for rheumatism, erysipelas, &c. The scenery in the neighborhood also possesses many other attractive features. The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, leading from Portland past Sebago Lake, through the White Mountain Notch, will cross the Missis- quoi Valley Railroad at Sheldon. Highgate Springs are located immediately at the station of that name, and form the central group of a number of medicinal springs, many of which have become noted for the virtue of their waters, and when bet- ter known will rank higher as fashionable resorts. Among those within a few-miles' radius can be named Alburgh Springs, Missisquoi Springs, Cham- plain Springs, Sheldon Springs, and Vermont Springs. Highgate Springs con- tain chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of soda. The proximity of Missisquoi Bay which lies at the east, and Highgate Falls only two or three miles distant, add to the attractions of this region. Champlain Springs and Highgate Falls are rival attractions at the village of the latter name. The waters of the springs are recom- mended for cancer, dyspepsia, and skin-diseases generally. Alburgh Springs are also reached by the Central Vermont Rail- road, and have won considerable attention. They are located north from Lake Champlain, and on the direct route from the “springs region ” of Vermont to the Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay, N.Y. If we make an approach to Vermont by the Fitchburg Railroad, we can visit Wachusett Mountain of Princeton, Mass., having an altitude of 2,480 feet, which is very favorably known to tourists. It is a crowning eminence second only to Greylock in altitude, rising from an undulating yet highly cultivated country, and is located midway between Massa- chusetts Bay and the Connecticut River. It was occupied by Govern- ment officers on the coast survey, and forms a distinctive landmark for mariners approaching the coast. It has long been a popular resort; even the red men are said to have made it a rendezvous. Its beauties are enhanced by an attractive lake, Wachusett, which nestles under its shadow. The elevated situation of the village of Princeton, the pure water with which it is supplied, its invigorating atmosphere, and pleasing surroundings, would of themselves prove attractions sufficient to popularize the place with pleasure-seekers. To these are added the charms of Lake Wachusett, and Wachusett Mountain; the former noted for the purity of its waters, the latter for the boldness and rich variety of its landscape. 122 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. If the tourist has a desire to climb another of New Hampshire’s famous mountains, this will be found a convenient time to visit Mount. Monadnock, in the town of Jaffrey, which has an altitude of 3,450. feet. (Vermont also has a mountain of the same name located near the little village of Colebrook.) This mountain is known as the Grand Monadnock, and is in the extreme southern section of the State. Being the highest elevation in the vicinity, it is a distinctive feature in the landscape. The view from this mountain is magnificent, and differs from that of any other in the vicinity. This elevation seems the con- necting link between the more undulating surface of Massachusetts, and the towering highlands of New Hampshire. In the east the historic shaft on Bunker Hill indicates the location of Boston. In the South- west, Wachusett, Holyoke, and Mount Tom form the conspicuous objects in the scenery; the green hills of Vermont become blue in the western horizon. In every direction, like gems set among the hills, sparkle the waters of picturesque lakes, the queen of which, Contoocook, with its charming little steamer, lies half enveloped in the shades of the overhanging mountain. From the north, however, the landscape draws its grandeur. Rising one above another are seen all the important peaks of bluis IIIouillainous Slale. A mineral spring in the vicinity adds to the attraction of Monadnock. Contoocook Lake, set like a gem among the hills, as before men- tioned, nestles under the shadow of the grand old Monadnock. It is a delightful retreat for the pleasure-loving guests of the summer hote! clinging to a shelf on the mountain-side. A small steamer plies on its waters. Go to Jaffrey, N.H., vià Monadnock Railroad. Bellows Falls, Vt. —Bellows Falls, or, as might more properly be said, cataract, forms an object worthy the attention of the sight-seer. It consists of a channel fifty feet in width, cut far down into the solid rock, through which the waters of the Connecticut River rush. A descent of fifty feet is made during the passage over which the river tumbles and foams. The scenery in the vicinity is fine, both in richness and variety. Bellows Falls may be reached by any of the railroad lines which strike the Connecticut River above or below. At this point connection is again made with the Central Vermont Railroad. Black River Falls, Springfield, are little more than a wild cascade where the stream has worn a curious fantastic channel through the slate formation. In a descent of six hundred feet the river falls one hundred and ten feet, fifty of which is by a single leap. Reached by the Central Vermont and Cheshire Railroads. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 123 The Hoosac Tunnel is so far completed that trains for merchandise passed through it for the first time on the date of writing this article. By this great engineering success the Hoosac Mountain has been pierced, forming a direct passage from the Atlantic Seaboard to the west. Ar- rangements for tourists are not yet completed, but this must eventually become one of the attractive features of an already interesting region. Go by the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad from the east, or Harlem Extension from New York. If our approach to Vermont is by the Boston and Albany Railroad we shall pass near Mount Holyoke, a place long and favorably known as a popular resort. Although it has an altitude of only 1,120 feet, the prospect from it is remarkably fine. Many other mountains are higher, yet few afford more interesting views. It has long been visited as a summer resort. As early as 1821 a hotel was erected on its summit, the same site now occupied by the famous Prospect House. It is ascended, partly by carriage, and partly by railway. Three hundred and sixty-five feet of the steepest portion is overcome by an incline six hundred feet, with cars drawn up by station- ary engine. Over twenty thousand visitors are annually lifted to this commanding spot. - - The mountain is but three miles from the thriving village of North- ampton, with a good carriage-road. Visitors can also go by horse-cars to the mountain railway. Northampton is reached by the Connecticut River, and New Haven and Northampton Railroads. Mount Tom (1,320 feet high), is also in this neighborhood, and is visited from Northampton (five miles). It commands a more extended view than Mount Holyoke, but from the difficulty of ascent it has never gained the same popularity. te Our next point of interest as we move westward is the Berkshire Hills, whose queen is the charming village of Pittsfield, Mass. One of the chief attractions is Lake Ashley, a quiet lakelet set on the summit of Mount Washington (1,800 feet high), near the village of Pitts- field. Its pure limpid waters supply the town. Lake Onota, Pontoosuc Lake, Berry Pond (in Hancock), Melville Lake, or the Lily Bowl, Lulu Cascade, Silver Lake, and Sylvan Lake are also among the interesting attractions near Pittsfield, which is really one of the most delightful homes of the hill region of Massachusetts. It is reached by both the Boston and Albany, and Housa- tonic Railroads. Before continuing to Vermont, the tourist should not fail to visit Greylock, the crowning peak of the Berkshire Mountains. 124 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Greylock is partially cleared on its summit, and commands a view pleasantly interspersed with every variety of landscape. Near by are the lower ranges of the Berkshire Hills, generally wooded to the crest; be- yond are the hills and valleys of an undulating country, dotted with farm- houses, lakes, ponds, and villages, which are agreeably intermingled. Above and beyond stretching far into the blue distance may be seen the towering form of Grand Monadnock. Turning with the sun, Mount Wachusett, in the eastern section of the State, forms a notable feature. Holyoke and Tom are seen in the south-east, and the Catskills in the south-west. There are several paths by which the top of Greylock is reached. The ascent is somewhat tedious, but the cheering prospect repays the effort. Go viá Boston and Albany Railroad. New Lebanon Springs are reached by rail on the Harlem Exten- sion Railroad. Here may be found a fine summer house, which is well patronized during the season. The medicinal qualities of the waters are highly recommended, having a temperature at 73°; the flow is large, and the fame of this spring is increasing. The surroundings are pleasant, walks good, and drives fine. The Shaker village is two miles distant. Mount Equinox (3,706 feet high) is one of the popular resorts of Manchester, Vt., from which village a fine carriage-road has been constructed to the house on the summit. Of all the charming drives, for which the environs of Manchester are famed, that to Mount Equinox is the most desirable. The landscape view is extensive and exceedingly interesting ; reaching from the far-Off Monadnock in the east, the Catskills in the west, to all the prominent Green Mountain peaks in the north. Manchester, which is reached by the Harlem Extension Rail- road, contains many other objects of attraction for tourists. Its fine hotels, the “Equinox * and “Taconic,” are worthy of patronage. The village possesses many picturesque charms which make it popular with visitors. Its marble walks shaded by beautiful trees give the place a quiet air of elegance. Clarendon Springs are located about six miles from Rutland, and not only form a delightful and much frequented resort for the citizens of that prosperous town, but are of themselves fashionable attractions. Rillington Peak, having an altitude of 3,924 feet, is best visited from Rutland, which is reached by the Central Vermont, Rensselaer and Saratoga, and Harlem Extension Railroads. The excursion is made by carriage seven miles. The ascent requires the usual amount of hard climbing ; but the view from the summit is fine. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 125 St. Catherine Lake, Poultney, is the central feature of many interesting points in that region. . It is located six miles from the village by a pleasant drive. The lake is about five miles long. On a project- ing promontory at the lower end stands St. Catherine's Hotel, a summer house pleasantly situated. The St. Catherine, Haystack, and Moosehorn, mountains to whose lofty peaks pilgrimages are often made, look down upon its quiet waters. Lake Bomaseen near by, although less in magnitude, is a place of much attraction. Carter's Falls, the Bowl, the Gorge, and Middletown Springs are also objects of interest to visitors. Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad. The Bread-Loaf Mountain it is not proposed to describe, nor the Bread-Loaf Inn where visitors rest, and are at home; but the quaint name is given to catch the fancy of tourists who would leave the beaten tracks of travel for a rustic jaunt among the emerald mountains of Vermont, — a real stage-coach ride of the olden time, up hills that are long and steep, past gorges that are rugged and deep, for a quiet rest beyond. Leave the Central Vermont Railroad at Middlebury, and the stage will take you eleven miles to Ripton, and set you down at the |Bread-loaf Inn. Good trout-fishing in the neighborhood. Lake Dunmore, Vt., derives its name from this historical incident. It is said, that, about the year 1770, Lord Dunmore visited this region, and, becoming enamoured of the beauties of this lake, waded into its crystal waters, and, pouring wine upon it, said, “Ever after this body of water shall be called Lake Dunmore in honor of the Earl of Dunmore.” Although this lake is but a half-dozen miles in length, its romantic situation, surrounded by high hills, the great depth and purity of its waters filled with gamey fish, and the many pleasant places in the vicinity, invest it with a rare interest to the guests of the Lake Dun- more House. Go to Salisbury, Vt., vić, Vermont Central Railroad, thence four miles by stage. 126 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 11. Boston to Providence, Stonington, New London, Shelter Island, New Haven, and New York City. SHORE LINE RAILROAD. Engraved expressly for Bachelder's “Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them.” PROVIDENCE DEPOT, COLUMBUS AVENU E, BOSTON. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 127 THE Shore Line Railroad is a consolidated route of several com- panies, – the Boston and Providence, 44 miles; Providence and Stoning- ton extending to New London, 62 miles; New York, New Haven, and Hartford, 122 miles: making the whole distance by rail, 232 miles. Upon the whole, the Shore Line is not merely the shortest to New York from Boston: it is the pleasantest, and in that respect the best. We wish to make clear notes of this important route. Before speak- ing briefly of the chief places along the way, we specially impress upon the reader to secure a careful look over the newest and very latest wonder of Boston’s century, - the famous castle, or depot, just finished by the Boston and Providence Railroad Company in Boston. In 1834 this road “opened shop’’ in a depot of great elegance and imposing Proportions—for that day ; SO pretentious, in fact, that it held up its respectable head in a comely and quite fashionable way, until January, 1875, when its president, directors, and company sat down in the present regal edifice. Two stone tablets at the entrance symbolize the whole significant story in a quiet way. The one records the names of the president, directors, superintendent, treasurer, and architects of 1834; and the other gives the names of like officials, under whose authority and care the company replaced the new for the old, forty years afterwards. The building is an eloquent witness; but the tablets reveal the secret of its birth, – the brains and the loins. It would be out of place here to tell how many gas-burners, how many miles of piping, how many rooms and for what, and all those 'minuter statistics which show the vastness of the whole work. The exterior, a perspective view of which is given, is an imposing, immense, and graceful composition, mainly of brick. Bricks are durable, but not elegant nor artistic, except in their arrangement; and yet the outside gives no conception of the splendor within. The approach and entrance is happy in its conception and elegant in execution. The impression made By the grand hall for passengers is that of cathedral opulence and sump- tuousness. There is no gingerbread effort at effect ; but there is a profound sense of massive grace, of princely cost and lavishment, and of architectural refinement, which is the type of adaptation to all time. A building more than the seventh of a mile in extent must arrest contemplation; but to stand in a hall rich in tasteful outlines beyond power of words to fairly describe, expanded to one hundred and eighty feet, forty-four wide, and eighty feet to the ceiling, is a new thing under depot suns. Half a dozen country stations with all their pine devices, in wriggling sinuosities and affected grace, could be set in this immense case, and have comfortable elbow-room besides. One of the perfections of good taste in this structure is the space allotted for every room, not forgetting the humble and the ignoble. 128 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. Not only every want and demand of the public, but every arm of the working force, is provided for in the same sumptuous and luxurious manner, even to baths for the conductors. In fact, the new depot of the Boston and Providence Road is a marvel of beauty, utility, and modern progress. Others cover more earth-space, but this is the depot for the million. Its influence is not lost in its immediate atmosphere. Not only will every engineer, every conductor, every employee, feel a sort of proud identity with this palatial property; but, better still, the thousands who travel the road will feel the exulting and flattering consciousness, that all this unstinted bountifulness was intended for “us.” It is “our ‘’ new depot to them; and the idea is full of shekels. “There are millions in it.” On the route by the Shore Line to New York, from Boston, objects of rare interest continually occur ; as, indeed, they must in a region so alive with people and their industries. All along the course to Providence, thriving towns and pretty villages are found, with the gently rolling intervals of country farms and cottages. The cheerful co-operation of the railroad company in advancing facilities and encouraging all objects of enterprise has stimulated a healthful suburban growth. The city of Providence is of growing renown, as the focus of an immense summer travel, en route for Newport and the multitude of summer resorts, located upon the delightful shores of Narraganset Bay. The little thread of water, which runs from the bay up to Providence, is constantly enlivened by magnificent excursion steamers, puffy little “tugs,” and graceful pleasure-boats, in “the season.” Fresh breezes and fresh clams are the staple joys of all who go to the famous resort of Rocky Point. The city is a very pleasant place with numerous attractive local curiosities, and suburban drives. It is of goodly size, about a hundred thousand inhabitants. At Kingston tourists leave by stage for Narraganset Pier, a summer watering-place of growing popularity. Of its twenty hotels, all are well patronized in summer. It should be better known. Stonington is a remarkably neat, pretty, and solemn place. It is a favorite resort in the Summer for a select class, and has an excellent and well-kept hotel. Watch Hill, but three miles across the bay from Stonington, is a delightful seaside location, being directly upon the coast, and possessing all the characteristics peculiar to the ocean's mar- gin. It is readily reached and largely visited from Stonington. Stonington is also important as the eastern terminus of the Steamboat Line from New York, a description of which supplements this article. At this point the route strikes Long Island Sound, which it follows closely, by which the tourist is cheered by many fine marine views, and invigor- ated by cool salt-water breezes. sº | º º º ºr º | º -T | | º |Nº. + | | º º N s ºv | 130 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM. , New London is another conspicuous and historic place, following Stonington, crossing the Thames River by ferry. A few days’ tarry at the Pequot House, at the mouth of the river, will incline the guest to repeat his visit. This is a first-class modern hotel, and is chiefly occu- pied by wealthy New York families in “the season.” * Among the notable sights is Fort Trumbull, one of our good Uncle Samuel's peculiar sea-coast, burglar-proof safes, in which he keeps his “mad ‘’ stored up. It looks as though it was a very solemn and peace- able place, however; but looks are deceptive, you know. "The temptations to visit Neptune's domain are unusually great, and afford cheery sails and “lots” of plunder. This is the point from which to leave for Shelter Island Park, located on Shelter Island, near Green- port, L.I., across the Long Island Sound, directly opposite from New London, from which place a steamer runs regularly. New Haven is reached through quietly diversified, but pleasant land- scapes. The city itself is justly inclined to be a whit aristocratic, as it contains Yale College. It is called “The City of Elms,” and holds many valuable and agreeable objects for the curious. It has a sweet, pictur- esque fringe of country scene, and will repay the time of a few days’ tarry ; for which good hotel accommodations will be found. Fine steamers run from New Haven to New York twice daily, and connect with other points also. There are steamers likewise from Bridgeport to New York. This is an enterprising, thrifty place beyond New Haven. Pursuing the route, there are entered and passed successively South- port, Westport, Norwalk, Darien, Noraton, Stamford, Greenwich, Port Chester, New Rochelle, and other places numerous but of less note. The journey ends in the far-famed Grand Central Depot, corner of Fourth Avenue and Forty-Second Street, in the great city and pande- monium of New York. This renowned depot, the centre of an amount of travel almost defying computation, we present in picture form ; and it is a worthy close of a trip commenced from the new Boston and Providence Depot. The peculiar advantage this route affords to Western travellers lies in the fact that the western trains of the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad, also have their termination in the Grand Central; so that no time is lost, nor inconvenience felt, by change of cars. Still further liberality is found by Southern travellers, that their transfer is by coach and free of charge, if they have procured through tickets, – a fact of which the knowing ones will take heed. The Fourth Avenue horse- cars start from this depot, by which, with connecting roads, tourists may visit any portion of the city. The system of baggage delivery prevailing here is too well understood to require description. PopULAR RESORTS, AND IIow. To REACH THEM, 131 EXCURSION THROUGH LONG ISLAND SOUND, BY THE STONINGTON LINE. Not HING conduces so much to the pleasure of travel as a feeling of security. Whether flashing through the valleys of a beautiful landscape, around the hills, along the streams, or across the broad prairies; whether skimming the waters of some placid lake, stemming the current of a mighty river, or ploughing old “ocean's billows,”—the pleasure of the excursion will be in direct ratio to the confidence of the excursionist in the character and reliability of the route. In this particular THE STON- INGTON STEAM BoAT LINE stands at the head of steam travel in America. º --- ~~~~ --> - --- -- rº- - -- - - -----------------~~~~ --- º ºn-ºn-ºn-ºnal - - -º-º: ------- These boats possess the advantage of having been substantially built for outside service. They lay low in the water, presenting less surface to the winds, and in storms ride the waves “like a thing of life.” They are unsurpassed for speed, comfort, and safety; and, whatever the state of the weather, always make the trip, and are sure of connections. The change from the busy whirl and heated streets of a crowded city to the open harbor, where the sea-breeze sweeps unobstructed from shore to shore, is a source of great relief; and the sail from New York, through the harbor, up the East River, through Hell Gate, and down Long Island Sound, is one of the most delightful on the coast. The ferry-boats fly 132 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. hither and thither like things of life. The gayly-dressed ships, bearing the fruit and merchandise of foreign climes; the forest of masts, with their streaming pennants, which for miles line the wharves along which We sail; the magnificent suburban residences and fine public buildings, With cultivated grounds, which adorn the banks; and the receding city clothed in the rich, warm glow of a beautiful sunset, — combine to make this sail one of the enjoyable episodes of a pleasant tour. THIS IS THE GREAT INSIDE LINE, leaving New York every afternoon (Sundays ex- cepted) from Pier 33, North River, at 5, P.M., in summer, and 4 in winter, and continuing to Boston via Stonington, entirely avoiding Point Judith, a dangerous promontory, against which, during storms, the waves dash with fearful violence, making the passage, if not always dangerous, at least unpleasant to persons unaccustomed to sea-life. The Providence Railroad, by which passengers from the boat con- tinue to Boston, is one of the best appointed in the country. Its Chair Cars are a great luxury, and add much to the comfort of tourists. THE STONINGTON LINE POSSESSES ANOTHER IMPORTANT ADVANTAG. E. Should any detention of the cars, or the probability of a rough or foggy night on the Sound, render such a course desirable, passengers from Boston for New York can change cars before reaching the boat, and con- tinue on the SHORE LINE by rail, thus insuring Southern or Western connections in New York. The Stonington Line presents unrivalled claims in the seaworthy character of its boats, an advantage fully tested during the unprecedented cold winter of 1874–5. - The “Stonington ’’ and “Narragansett’’ were staunchly built for out- side service: they lie low in the water, and in storms ride the waves “like a thing of life.” The “Rhode Island ” is a splendid boat in model, architecture, and finish; it is furnished magnificently, and is claimed to be the fastest boat on the Sound. The spacious dining-room on the upper deck, the elegant state-rooms, smoking-room, with abundant facilities for prome- nade both inside and out, are among the luxuries this boat affords. The Stonington Line is the direct. route of approach from New York and the South to the summer resorts of Stonington, Watch Hill, and Nar- ragansett Pier: the latter a place of growing popularity, is patronized largely by New Yorkers. Its isolated position is a disadvantage; yet its twenty or more hotels are always well patronized in “the season.” Passengers by this line reach Boston við the Boston and Providence Railroad in season for breakfast at the magnificent restaurant of the Providence Depot, before continuing by the morning eastern or northern trains. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 133 MIDDLE STATES. New York City — the great heart of the nation, whose throbs vibrate along the rails and magnetic wires which ramify into the re- mote recesses of the country — will repay a visit from tourists. But before entering upon the wonderful surroundings, and “how to reach them,” of that huge and renowned metropolis of a continent, it may as well be said, that it would be almost impossible to pass through it without travelling into a portion at least of Broadway, -the mighty artery through which surges the dense flood of life and activity of that vast Pandemonium of civilization. And to gaze upon the masses of vehicles of every kind, - stages, carts, drays, carriages, handcarts, run- ning and racing, men and women, dogs, and every possible animated and moving thing, — is a scene even more stirring and exhilarating than are Niagara Falls, or the panoramas of the grandest mountains. In fact, Broadway, in full activity, is “a sight,” — and well worth a long journey to see, if one saw nothing else. Indeed, it is a bewilder- ing wonder; and while a New-Yorker moves amid all the seeming perils and inexpressible confusion, — “Calm as a summer’s morning,” — the visitor from a moderate city, or quiet town, is all aglow with excite- ment over the strange scenes. By all means see Broadway once. As might be expected in a city so immense, amid industries and wealth so vast, stupendous works of various kinds are required and in constant development. Those already completed, in progress, and in contemplation, can hardly be enumerated. The great bridge across the East River, the tunnel beneath the North River, the gigantic rail- road that cuts under ground, the startling railroad that travels in the air, the Croton-water masonry, the Central Park, the Grand Boulevard, and numerous other marvels of progress and cost, show the expansive energies of a million people, bent on improvement and wealth. But New York is not a handsome city inside. Like all “huddles” of men in huge congregation, dinginess and squalor are set beside the brilliants of splendor and wealth. Every phase of human existence can be found in New York, -from the filth and brutality that would make a Hottentot blush, to the magnificence and luxury which might excite royal envy. Edifices, public and private, upon which money and skill have been unstintedly lavished, are numerous, of course; but the shabby, rickety, tumble-downety shanties are far more abundant. New York is in its full robust vigor, in fact; but many portions of it have passed it, and have a sadly old and jaded general look. A large num- ber of pleasure routes radiate from the city to the numerous popular resorts for which the Empire State is famous. 134 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. NEW YORK CITY AND CATSKILLS. New York City does not come within the design of this work, as a place of “popular resort.” It is the great cities whose tens of thou- Sands swarm to distant places, in pursuit of rest and recreation, when the sun pours down its summer heats. Cities have their peculiar points of striking interest, distinctive of art and wealth, refinement and cultivation. These are about as well studied, in the main, at one season as at another. Nature has there been subdued; and more formal things usurp her claims. But all our notable cities have their fringes of exquisite charms, replete with luxuries and delicacies, to which the mul- titude make frequent resort; and from these prolific centres the pilgrims in pursuit of ease or, pastime make their summer journeys. The vast suburban regions around New York present an infinite variety of nooks and resting-places free from heat and glare and city turmoil. To enu- merate these in detail would be useless. If we can glance at the leading lines of inviting travel, and places for repose, the balance can all be taken in while thus upon the wing. U P T H E H ITTYSON. Taking royal precedence of all rivals, commencing at the city of New York, is the Hudson River, —or, rather, its grand and glorious shore views. Novelty, in describing this renowned river, has long since passed out of the possible. Its panegyrists embrace the ablest pens and the most gifted minds, not to speak of the hosts who have tried and failed. Indeed, the scenery that paints the margin of the Hudson, and as far into the remote as vision can reach, simply defies the power of descriptive delineation in printer’s ink. The delicate and appreciative colors of the true artist alone can exhibit the tenderness of the tints and shades; the gently serpentine lines; the valleys and verdure; the modest undula’ion; the sharp and rugged ascent ; the grand and majestic mountain curves and piercing summits, with their soft haze, virgin blues, and rich, deep purples; and all these repeated, like a dream echo, in the water mirror between. It is genius only that can attempt to convey some grateful idea of how the scenery of the Hudson River fascinates and delights all minds and all grades of people, when viewed in the full glory of a robust summer. To enjoy the river to advantage, one should make the day trip, by steamer for Albany. What will be seen must be left for the reader to learn by study, as he winds along the sinuous route of the river. It will richly repay for the time and cost of the trip, as a rare painting by nature, graced by many a gem of architecture and art. It should be borne in mind, that along the Hudson River, and at points not remote from its waters, are numerous memorable localities, where PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 135 Some of the sharpest conflicts and most momentous events of the Revo- lutionary war occurred. The holding of New York City by the British; their efforts to extend their occupation, and that of the patriots to hem them into as narrow a space as possible, – these, with the distractions which attend all like scenes, stamped the still living impress of the strug- gle upon many a field of strategy, skirmish, and battle. Of these, Forts Washington and Lee (both close to the city) are notable; also Fort Tryon and King's Bridge. All these spots are mentioned in histories of the Révolution, especially the desperate battle at King's Bridge, in 1777. - Yonkers is as familiar to a New Yorker as the Central Park. The lover of old stories will find rare studies of old things around Pier- mont, N.Y., more especially the jail in which Major André was confined, and the spot where he was executed. These are at the ancient town of Tappan, near Piermont. Washington Irving's home, “Sunnyside,” is plainly seen on the right as you ascend the River Hudson. Tarrytown, N.Y., where Major André was arrested, is a notable place. Cooper's graphic descriptions of the “Skinners” and “Cowboys’ are laid in this region ; and Irving’s “Sleepy Hollow ’’ is also close by. Sing Sing, N.Y., is chiefly noted for its great prison and the Croton Aqueduct. - Croton Point, N.Y., holds the great lake and the vast reservoirs which - supply the city of New York with water. Some of the grandest triumphs of modern engineering skill are here to be seen. At Haverstraw, N.Y., Arnold and André met to arrange for the Surren- der of West Point. It is about forty miles up the river. - The famous “Stony Point,” the scene of “Mad” Anthony Wayne's gallant exploit, lies just above Haverstraw, in New York State. - Peekskill, N.Y., has several Revolutionary reminiscences in its midst. On the opposite side of the river is the place where Capt. Kidd is said to have buried the treasures so much sought for, but not yet found. Ascending IIudson River, and once past Peekskill, the grand diversities of “the Highlands” open to view, and continue to excite wonder and admiration, beyond the power of language adequately to express. These commence about fifty miles up the Hudson, and are probably unsur- passed for romantic scenery by any river travel in the Old World or in the New. To mention even the more notable, much less all the familiar fea- tures along and near this river, or to attempt a detailed description of them, would demand too much space. - West Point, the most renowned fortification on this continent, stands. at the entrance to the Highland scenery of Hudson River, N.Y., and is a specially conspicuous object of interest to strangers. !. Back from the Hudson River, N.Y., some dozen miles, rise the cele- ; 136 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. brated Catskill Range, or Kaats-Kills of New York, said to have been named by the Dutch, on account of the catamounts found there. By the Indians thay were called Ontioras, meaning “a cloud-like appear- ance.” These mountains are a part of the great Appalachian chain, extending from Canada East to the Gulf of Mexico. Their especial point, however, is the range following the course of the Hudson River for twenty or thirty miles, –lying twelve miles west, separated by the richly productive Catskill Valley. It is at this part of the Hudson that the landscape is the most charming; and tourists always meet with glad surprise this, the objective point of the “Beautiful Hudson.” The Catskill Mountains, renowned in story and in Song, have long been famous as summer resorts. Thousands of those eager to escape the heat and discomforts of great cities annually visit the haunts of “Rip Van Winkle,” which Washington Irving in one of his charming legends so gracefully portrays, where amid grand views and picturesque scenery, the summer is passed pleasantly and rapidly away. The many mountain streams filled with trout, the wild unbroken forests abounding with game, the cool temperature, and pure waters, are among the many inducements offered to the tourist, the sportsman, and the invalid. The advent of the New York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad through this region, opens up a new route which renders the trip both easy and pleasant, alike to the aged and infirm, and has greatly increased the popularity of these retreats. The little travel, time, and expense re- quired in reaching these regions excel all other mountain resorts. The high prices exacted for board, the reign of fashion, and whirl of excitement, at the fashionable watering-places, deter many from seeking that recreation which their health requires. Throughout this region, in isolated positions and in considerable clusters, are large hotels, and attractive boarding-houses, where, at prices ranging from six to ten dollars per week, ample accommodation, a good table, and kind attention await the guest. There are two distinct routes by which tourists approach the Catskills: one from Kingston vià the New York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad; and by the old popular line by stage from Catskill Station: both of which are described. Visitors from New-York City can go by either of , the elegant and commodious steamers “Thomas Cornell,” or “James W. Baldwin,” from the foot of Harrison Street; the fast and famous steamer “Mary Powell,” from the foot of Vestry Street; the Albany Day Boats “IDrew" or “Wibbard; ” the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad, and the Erie Railway. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 137 APPROACH FROM KINGSTON STATION. At Kingston, all of the above-named steamers and trains connect daily with the New York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad, to the mountain regions of Ulster, Delaware, and Greene Counties. This company has recently purchased handsome coaches, which are under the charge of attentive officials; and the traveller will find the trip to the mountains easy and pleasant. As the train winds its way around and up the mountains, gorgeous scenery surrounds him on every hand. From the car-window the tourist looks out upon the grand, majestic Catskills, each peak rich in romantic legends. Drinking in the pure cool breezes of the mountains, inspired by the picturesque grandeur of the scene, he is sure to remember it as one of the finest views that has greeted him in any quarter of the globe. A ride of nine miles brings the tourist to West Hurley. This is the point of debarkation for passengers bound for the Overlook Moun- tain House. It is situated on Mount Overlook, the most lofty of the summit of the Catskill range. Its height is thirty-eight hundred feet above the level of the sea. The scenery from its peak is of the boldest and most romantic description. The hotel has a capacity to comfortably accom- modate five hundred guests. The telegraph, and postal facilities are ample. The temperature is remarkably cool, the thermometer seldom reaching higher than seventy-eight degrees. Eighteen miles farther up the Shandaken Valley brings us to Phoenicia. Here passengers destined for Hunter, Greene County, will find stages in waiting. The scenery from Phoenicia to Hunter is perhaps the most attractive of any among the Catskills. The drive through the famous Stony Clore, and a visit to the Kauterskill Falls and Plattekill I?avine, are of themselves sufficient to attract many to this charming resort. Still travelling through a beautiful valley, replete with the most romantic scenery, the tourist arrives at Shandaken. The scenery here is the annual study of a large number of artists : it is picturesque and exceedingly beautiful. This is also the point of debarkation for tour- ists crossing the “Notch,” and visiting Westkill and Lexington. The Notch is one of the most curious features of the mountain. The public road crosses the mountain at this point, through a narrow defile with abrupt precipices about twelve hundred feet high on either side, which appear to close in at the top. In summer it affords an impene- trable shade, where snow and ice remain nearly the whole year through in the clefts of the rock, 138 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Big Indian is thirty-six miles from Kingston at the foot of the grade ascending Pine Hill, and about five miles from the summit grade of the road, and is one of the most favorite resorts for trout-fishing. The scenery is wild, and presents some of the most fascinating mountain views. Again taking the train, while we slowly wind and twine our way around and up Pine Hill, we gaze with silent admiration and awe upon the magnificence and sublimity of the scene. It is broad and grand, and beyond the power of reproductive art. Having crossed Pine Hill at an elevation of nearly two thousand feet above the level of the sea, we soon glide into Margaretsville, Delaware County. This inviting little village is delightfully situated on the banks of the Delaware River. We are now in the vicinity of the famous fish- ing and hunting grounds of the Beaverkill and Millbrook. There are two. good hotels located here. Jumping aboard the train again we soon find ourselves at Rowbury. The tourist entering this village is at once impressed with the neatness of its appearance, and the beauty of its location. At Moresville passengers for Prattsville, Ashland, Windham, and Hensonville in Greene County, will find splendid four-horse coaches in waiting. Prattsville. — This is an attractive little village cosily nestled among the Catskills, and has a population of seven hundred inhabitants. Here are located a number of fine boarding-houses. Windham. This is the headquarters for city boarders in Greene County. Of all the towns upon our route, none are more attractive to the pleasure-seeker; none present more pleasant social aspects, or equal it in its picturesque scenery, and grand surroundings. Hensonville is a beautiful mountain village, situated about three miles from Windham, and contains a number of first-class boarding-houses, and is each year increasing in popularity. Stamford, Delaware County, is the present terminus of the railroad. This charming little village, situated over eighteen hundred feet above the level of the Sea, will long detain the visitor by the pleasant strolls which it invites among its shady streets, bordered by cosey residences and elegant pleasure-grounds; by the many drives which are afforded in its environs through inviting groves, into beautiful villages, and over rippling brooks. Those desirous of passing the summer among the mountains can certainly find no pleasanter accommodations, nor more polite and kind attentions, than those we guarantee them to receive from the hands of the inhabitants of this charming vil- lage, POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 139 APPROACH FROM CATSIKILL STATION. Catskill Station is most accessible by way of this river, either by rail or steamboat: several trains and boats run daily, South from Albany, and north from New York City, connecting with the ferry which crosses the river to Catskill proper, including the world-renowned day-line steamers, “C. VIBBARD,” and “DANIEL DREw,” which leave New York every morning. A daily line of stages conveys passengers from the village across the valley to the mountains about twelve miles off. If the visitor is in search of mountain scenery alone, he will leave the fashionable hotels of the river and village neighborhood, and proceed at once by the stage-road to the terminus of the lovely valley of Catskill Creek, where he will find himself at the seat of the hill and mountain region. About six miles on from the village, he will pass the ancient Dutch hamlet of Kiskatom, and, along a mile or two, “Sleepy Hollow ’’ of Irving's legend is seen. It is rather paradoxical to breathe here, not a slumbering, dream-like air, but, instead, a literal “Rip Van Winkle ’’ in shape of a wide-awake hotel. Thrift and enterprise have entered into that “Hollow ’’ with an earnestness that would bring dismay to the charming writer who aimed to immortalize the spot as one of restful, unchanging scene. About two miles from the Hollow, the road turns, and ascends Pine Orchard Mount; and here the view includes an area of ten thousand square miles: the eye can reach four States. To the west is a varied mountain view; to the east, a wide half-circle of etherealized blue land- scape. “On the horizon, the Hudson Highlands, the Berkshire and Green Mountains, unite their chains, forming a continuous line of misty blue. The Hudson, its broad valley studded with white villages, is stretched below for many leagues.” This view has been enthusiastically described by some of our best American authors, and Harriet Martineau was more moved by it than by Niagara itself. The mirage, the sunrise over the Taghkanics, and the raging of a thunder-storm, are objects of especial attention here. North Mountain is reached by a path leading from the hotel of Pine Orchard Mount which passes the Bear's Den. On the way to Pudding- Stone Hall and to the Fairy Spring, the South Mountain is ascended: it is a pleasant path, and the view from the summit extends over a vast space, taking in certain peaks of New Jersey. The two Cauterskill Lakes, about a mile and a half off, abound in fish. An old road, exceedingly rural, leads from the broad rock platform of Pine Orchard to Moses’ Rock, and, for a mile or two on, there spreads a 140 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. deep and well-wooded ravine. Just below are Cautersville Falls, interest- ing as the outlet of the lakes. These falls spring over the rocky cliffs in two jets ; the first one hundred and seventy-five feet, the second eighty feet high. A curious performance can be here carried on by accomplished guides, who will, by aid of a dam, and for a small fee, effect a “freak of nature.” The natural flow of water is not at all times, especially in summer, sufficient to display the desired effect of the falls; and, in order to satisfy sight-seers, the water is turned on from a dam, and the object is furnished for value received. Bastion Falls are a quarter of a mile down the ravine, on the way to Caulersville Clore. This Clove is the favorite resort of artists; and the section leads upward with gradual rise, and west to the lofty plateau of South Mountain, passing pretty dots of brook scenery. A ravine leading from this summit contains the famous High Rocks, and also the Fawn’s Leap Falls; and farther along, near the outlet, is the entrance to Hain’s Falls, an imposing cascade one hundred and fifty feet high, with one or two less notable ones above and below. The Washington Profile Rock is near the Ulidge, crossing on to the Clove road. Many graceful cascades occur in the Clove stream, which follows along the slopes of High Peak; the road passing on with it diverges at Hunter, running to the south-west, and down to Esopus Valley near Overlook Mountain, and returning through Stony Clove. This stream is excellent for trout-fishing. Bunter's Glen is narrow, and wildly grand. It was originally settled by “Cow Boys,” a band of border banditti. Near it, is the sharp ragged peak, the Colonel’s Chair, and also Hunter Mountain. Two miles from Hunter Hamlet a portion of Stony Clove gorge lies continuously sunless, holding to its bosom ice-depths throughout the year, – a fitting place for the Devil's Tombstone, which is in this gloomy ravine. At this place we are twenty miles from Catskill village. Farther west are the lonely glens of Lexington; and on, a distance of thirty-six miles west of Catskill, are the far-viewing Pratt's Rocks. Looking north towards Hudson, Mount Merino is seen overlooking Matteawans, Catskills, Taſhkanicks, the Green Mountains, the Luzerne Mountains at Lake George, and many miles along the Hudson. About six miles south of the Cauterskill Clove, Plattekill Clove is entered from Saugerties Plains by a road running along the foot of the mountains or from the Tannersville plateau. It is an exceedingly weird, deep-descending gorge, incased in massive cliffs, and is traversed by a rambling brook and rough path. Black Chasm Falls are in this Clove : they have an altitude of three hundred feet. On towards the north, High POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 141 Peak and Round Top Mountains are plainly visible. High Peak, the most prominent of all this region, is often ascended by venturesome ladies. The path is rough and winding, and starts from near Hain's Falls. It is thirty-eight hundred and four feet high, and is conceded to give the most extensive view of this region. Next in consequence is the symmetrical Round Top, thirty-seven hundred and eighteen feet high. These two mountains are isolated from their sisters of the range, being separated by the deep ravines of Plattekill and Cauterskill Clove. Blackhead, near by, and six miles north of Catskill Mountain, is a steep and cone-like peak. There are remaining, in adjoining counties, several hundred square miles of merely officially explored territory. The land is scarcely inhabited, and is a region of profound wildness. It is made up of tall, savage-looking mountains, covered with rank forest growth, intersected by sparkling trout-streams, forming themselves into occasional cascades, presenting to the adventurer rare scenes of interest. Three or four days will suffice to see the Catskills in a general detail, a week or more, however, ought to be given to perfectly satisfy the tourist. They are mountains of more than ordinary capacity to interest. The artist Thomas Cole, of “Course of Empire’’ fame, made this region his home with an enthusiasm equalling the well-known Niagara hermit ; in fact, his well-earned and favorable reputation dated from his painting of the Cauterskill Falls. . It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add that the visitor will find here good accommodations. It is hoped that a future edition will present this region, so replete with scenic beauty, fully illustrated to the public. 142 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE FROLJTE No. 124. New York and Philadelphia, to Bethlehem, Mauch Chunk, Wilkes Barre, Scranton, Richfield and Sharon Springs, Howe's Cave, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, the Adirondacks, Montreal and Quebec. Also a New Route from New York to Long Branch and North Mountain, Pa. CENTRAL RAILROAD OF NEw JERSEY, NORTH PENNSYLVANIA, ALBANY AND SUSQUEH ANNA, RENSSELAER AND SARA TOGA, AND NEW YORK AND CANADA RAILROADS. TIIE depot of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, in Jersey City, is reached by the railroad company’s splendid ferry-boat from the foot of Liberty Street, New York, from whence cars continue through Northern New Jersey to Easton and Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. At the latter place connection is made with the North Pennsylvania Railroad, leading from Philadelphia to Bethlehem, whence the route continues over the rails of the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad (a leased road of the Central Railroad of New Jersey) up the valley of the Lehigh, past Scran- ton, to Green Ridge, connecting with the Delaware and Hudson Canal companies’ railroads, to Cooperstown, Sharon Springs, Howe’s Cave, Albany, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Quebec, and the Adirondacks. NORT II PEN NSYLVANIA RAILROAD. Although Philadelphia has been denominated the “City of Homes,”— and justly So, for in no place of its magnitude in the world is the general population “housed '' in the same independent and comfortable manner, — yet, as the Summer Solstice approaches, there is a certain portion of the community, that, tiring of the heated streets and sultry atmosphere, are willing to leave the clustering comforts by which they are surrounded, and are anxious to escape into the open country, to revel among the verdant fields and leafy groves, to listen to the murmuring rill, or the deep diapason of the ocean's roar, to climb the mountain, or thread the valley, and at the same time to drink in deep draughts of the pure, life-giving air that will invigorate them for their returning duties in the metropolis, whether their accustomed routine be business or pleasure. One of the favorite routes leading from the city, and largely patronized by the pleasure-seekers, is the North Pennsylvania Railroad, running from Philadelphia to Bethlehem (with several lateral branches), where it unites with the Lehigh and Susquehanna division of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, and with the Lehigh Valley Railroad. From an imposing and Well-Ordered depot at the corner of Berks and American PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 143 Streets, easily accessible by the lines of street-cars from all points of the city, numerous daily trains, at short intervals, are receiving the thronging passengers, and distributing them upon their several errands ; whether their destination be the suburban homes of which so many grace the line of the road, or the more lengthened trip to mountain, glen, or lake that this route offers on such favorable terms, with such excellent accommodations. The line of the road is singularly beautiful in a quiet and rural point of view. Before leaving the city limits, it strikes through large planta- tions owned by old and wealthy families, who, keeping their possessions intact with the proper admixture of glebe and woodland, cóntribute more to the enjoyment of the cultivated eye in viewing the beautiful results, than would extended rows of brick and mortar. Progressing up the road, the country opens out on either side in exceeding beauty. Valleys stretching off for miles, dotted with hamlets, sparkling with streams, and showing evident marks of thrift and cultivation, greet the eye, while on many an eminence may be seen handsome and substantial mansions, sur- rounded by grounds decorated in all the perfection of landscape-gardening. Nor is the useful entirely subordinate to the beautiful. Several belts of hematitic iron-ore cross the road in different localities, at each of which may be seen the lofty stacks and puffing engines of the blast- furnace, with the accompanying aggregation of dwellings, and other marks of this industry upon which Pennsylvania builds so firmly the edifice of her greatness. At Bethlehem the North Pennsylvania makes connection with two diverging roads,-the Central Railroad of New Jersey, leading eastward to Easton, and through New Jersey to New York City, and northward through the Lehigh and Wyoming Valleys to Scranton, and so on via thé Albany and Susquehanna Railroad; and also with the Lehigh Valley Railroad, leading eastward to Easton, and northward through the Lehigh, Wyoming, and Susquehanna Valleys, to the New York State line, joining at that point with the Erie Railway, Ithaca and Athens, South- ern Central, and other roads en route to Watkins Glen, Niagara Falls, the lake system of Central New York, the Great Lakes, and all the desirable watering-places of New York and Canada. The North Pennsylvania route has for some years been a favorite one for pleasure-seekers; and each season increases the number of those availing themselves of its Speedy transit, comfortable cars, and admirable accommodations. There are several branches striking off from the main line; at Lans- dale, one running eastward to Doylestown, the county seat of Bucks County, and one running westward to Norristown, the county seat of Montgomery County; one at Abington, running to Hartsville and Hat- boro’, flourishing villages in Montgomery County, upon all of which are enterprising and growing towns. 144 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. PENNSYLVANIA SCENERY — UP THE LEHIGH. THE remarkable unfolding of the mineral resources of Pennsylvania during the last few years has developed some of the finest scenery on the continent. Deep gorges, bold precipices, and wild ravines, heretofore untrodden by human foot, now sparkle with the light of civilization. The screaming locomotive, guided by science, darts into the recesses of the mountains. Forests are levelled, valleys cleared, houses erected, cities reared, mines opened; and the very hills pour forth their hidden treasures. This in du s- trial re- search has open- ed up a new field for pleas- ure seek- ers. Prob- ably no other lo- cality on the con- tin ent has re- ceived a like in- crease of visitors. A few yearſ ago the ex- tensive coal re- grion of Pennsyl- v an i a Was COin- parative- Tºº-º-º-º: º ºS ly un- LEHIGH WALLEY, MAUCH CHUNK, PENN, known Looking South from Mt. Pisgah, to the tourist: now thousands visit it annually, and return filled with ad- miration of the wild beauties it contains. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 145 ROUTE OF APPROACH. The direct route of approach to the coal regions of Pennsylvania from New York, New England, and the Provinces is by the Central Railroad of New Jersey, its Branches and Connections, and from Phila- delphia by the North Pennsylvania Railroad. This also is the most direct and the shortest route from New York to Easton, Allentown, Wilkes Barre, Reading, Harrisburg, Williamsport, the Oil Regions, Pittsburg, and the West, and is one of the very pleasantest to North Mountain and Watkins Glen (elsewhere described), and when con- nected will embrace one of the finest and most varied pleasure trips on the continent. It has also been opened as a through route from New York and Philadelphia to Saratoga, vić, Mauch Chunk, Wilkes Barre, Scranton, &c. (see description). We leave New York from the foot of Liberty Street, by the Central New Jersey Railroad Company’s splendid ferry-boats to Jersey City, from which point our route by rail commences. The road leads at first in a general westerly direction, through a fine agricultural region, interspersed with thriving villages and elegant suburban residences. It is also a field replete with historic memories. Washington's Rock, the lofty crag from which that revered general was wont to study the position and note the movements of a foreign foe, is plainly visible from the cars. At Hampton Junction the “Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Rail- road” connects for Delaware Water Gap, Scranton, Great Bend, and Binghamton. e - At Phillipsburg, a picturesque town built on a bold bluff on the left bank of the Delaware River, opposite Easton, which it overlooks, the “Central Railroad " connects with the “Morris and Essex’’ and the “Belvidere '’ Railroads. Easton is delightfully located at the confluence of the Lehigh and Delaware Rivers, the former leaping over a dam of twenty-one feet at this place. The town is approached by a magnificent bridge, one thousand feet long, and twenty-two feet high. It is constructed of wrought iron, resting on heavy cut-stone piers, and, including the rock-cuts in the vicinity, cost $650,000. Beneath this pass diagonally the Canal, “ Bel- videre Railroad,” and foot-bridge; and under all rush the waters of the wild mountain torrent in its race to the sea. This bridge connects the “Central New Jersey Railroad” with the “Lehigh and Susquehanna ’’ Division on the north bank of the Lehigh, and with the “Lehigh Valley Railroad' on the south bank. By the latter route we continue to Bethlehem and Allentown. The picturesque beauty of the scenery increases from Easton, the cars following the graceful curves of the river, which is fringed and shaded by beautiful 146 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. trees, while bold hills, clothed with luxuriant foliage, compose the background. At Bethlehem the “North Pennsylvania Railroad,” from Philadelphia, intersects with the “Lehigh Valley" and the “Lehigh and Susquehanna” Roads, contributing its quota of tourists from Philadelphia and the South. The “Lehigh and Lackawanna" Branch to Chapman's also leads from this point. - At Allentown the course of the river is from the north-west, up which the “Lehigh Valley” and “Lehigh and Susquehanna" Railroads extend, while connection is also made with the “Allentown Line; " which com- prises the “East Pennsylvania Railroad,” thirty-six miles from Allentown to Reading, and the “Lebanon Valley Railroad,” fifty-four miles farther, to Harrisburg. The general course of this route is westerly. The scenery is unusually fine; and, differing entirely in character from the “New York and Allentown” section, it adds to the variety and pleasure of the tourist. At Harrisburg connection is made with trains on the “Pennsylvania and Northern Central Railroad,” affording ample facili- ties to go North, South, or West. THE LEHIGH WALLEY. – RE- SIMING FROM EASTON. The “Lehigh and Susque hanna’’ Division of the “Cen- tral Railroad º' connects at Easton, and, following the tor- tuous course of the Lehigh, winds its picturesque way through the mountains to the Susquehanna at Wilkes Barre, up which it follows to Pitts- ton, and thence on the east bank of the Lackawanna to Scranton. This is a main line, into which lead, from every direc- tion, branches filled with trains burthened with the rich min- eral products of this remark- able region. Coal is not the only product: iron, slate, &c., are manu- factured in great abundance. Either of these is found in quantities sufficient to insure the wealth and prosperity of any section of the country. These industrial pursuits form an interesting source of information, as well as amusement, to the COAL VEIN. 1°opui, AR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. 147 tourist. He often gazes in amazement upon the carious mechanism and ponderous implements employed. The enormous expenditures which have been made to develop and frequently to prepare to develop these enterprises, are a source of wonder. And when we realize that these features are but adjuncts to one of the finest combinations of natural scenery in America, we can better understand its growing popularity. LEHIGH GAP, (Looking Down), Central Railroad of New Jersey. “Soon after leaving Bethlehem, the mountains approach the bed of the stream, and at ‘The Gap' fling themselves directly in its path, leaving no resource but to go through them, which it has accordingly done, cleaving the mountains from summit to base in its efforts to escape. 148 PopUI. A R is ESoſzt's. AND lioW to REACH THEM. “It is not until the vicinity of Mauch Chunk is reached that the peculiar features of Lehigh Valley appear in perfection.” ... mºiſº MAUCH CHUNK, PENN. Mt. Pisgah and “Switch-back” Railway. This wild, picturesque, and popular re- gion is reached from New York and Phil- adelphia via Central New Jersey, North Pennsylvania, and connecting railroads. PopULA1: RESORTS, AN1) How To it i: A Cl1 THEM- 140 The arrival of the morning trains at Mauch Chunk from New York and Philadelphia is at the hour of noon; and a hot dinner at the Mansion House is waiting to be served. This, to the frequenter of the Lehigh Valley, is the on ly a n- nouncome in t necess a ry; but to the st ranger I w ill add that “ The Mansion " has no supe- rior in this region. It needs but one visit to 111sure a Sec- ond. The cars of the “Cen- tral Rail- *I wºº road of New º º HHHHºF Jersey” stop at the door; and its loca- tion on the banks of the Lehigh, over- hung by rug- - -- T- º º - º: # * ºfflº MANSION HOUSE, MAUCH CHUNK, PENN. ged moun- Central Railroad of New Jersey. tains, all clothed with the fragrant rhodendron, is picturesque to the last degree. The visitor to Mauch Chunk is advised to go without any pre-arrange" plans. It is not a place to “do” by programme, as many tourists travel. It contains too much, has too many features of interest, so startling in their character, so grand in conception, and so beautiful in detail, that any previous plan of operations must in execution fall to nought. It is better to go untrammelled. After finding yourself comfortably domiciled, go first to the veranda on the front of the house, and leisurely study the scene, an engraving of which is here with submitted. It is truly a wonderful view, pleasing in art, yet far more so in nature. A glimpse of the entrance to the town shows through the narrow street to the left. Splendid residences cling | i | | § º . | º º li i | | * s H | -- |Fººl | | | | | | # º º POPULAR RESORTS. ANI). HOW TO in EACH THEM. 151 to the hillside beyond, over which a few marble monuments indicate the village cemetery. Beyond this we take the cars for the “Switch-back” Railway. The “dam ” in the left middle ground throws the water into the canal, w h o se b o a ts, I o a d e d with the “b la c k diamonds” of this region, we have seen by the wayside. Immediately before the door is the platform of the “Cen- tral Railroad of New Jersey,” where passengers are left and received from every train. The light iron bridge leads to the depot of the “Lehigh Valley Railroad,” on the opposite side of the river. Bear Mountain is the central feature of the landscape. But the mountain on the right receives the greatest homage from visitors. From the “Flagstaff.” on its summit you get the view sug- gested by the above engraving, though vastly superior. It is too extensive, too grand, to receive justice from the artist's pencil. The topography of the whole country is spread out before you. It seems a moving diorama, through which you trace the serpentine windings of the Lehigh Valley, with its river, its railroads, and canals. THE FLAGSTAFF, 152 Popular: RESORTs, AND How to REACH THEM. An excursion over the “Switch-back" Railroad will also be in order. Strictly speaking, the “Switch-back" has ceased to exist, and a gravity road has taken its place; but the name remains. The first improve- ment in the “Switch-back” Railroad – for conveying coal from the mines about Summit Hill, ten miles distant, to the boats of the “Coal Navi- gation Company” at Mauch Chunk – was by employing gravity one way, the grade being sufficient to insure this. Mules were taken down on the train to draw the cars back. This was subsequently improved by the construction of planes over the intervening elevations, Mt. Pisgah and Mt. Jefferson, up which the cars were drawn by stationary engines on their summits; the altitude thus gained being sufficient to turn the grade to Summit // //, to which place the cars re- turned by their own gravity. This means of trans portation all- swered well its purpose until the great do m and for the anthra- cite coal of the “L e- high ' war- ranted the construction of a steam railroad, - the cutting of solid rocks asunder, and piercing the MT. PSGAH PLANE. mountain * Switch-back" Railroad, Mauch Chunk, Penn. barriers with tunnels. The success of this last enterprise relieved the “Switch-back,” or, more properly, “Gravity” Road; but the opening of this region at this time as a “popular resort" suggested the use of the “Switch-back " E. º Ž º Engraved expressly for “Bachelder's Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them." I. Moyer's Rock. ONOKO STATION, MAUCH CHUNK, PA. 3. Lehigh Valley R.R. 2. Central R.R. of New Jersey. 4. Glen Onoko 154 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. as a pleasure route for excursionists. Passenger cars have been substi- tuted; and the same powerful machinery used for coal-cars is now applied to the light pleasure traffic. Carriages from the depots and the hotels take passengers to the base of Mt. Pisgah, though it is but a short distance for those who prefer to walk; and the fine scenery will repay the effort. The plane of Mt. Pisgah rises one foot in three for 2,322 feet. The cars are drawn up by a stationary engine on the top, connecting with an iron band six and one-half inches wide, which runs over a drum eighteen feet in diameter. The passenger car is followed by a safety car, supplied with a long iron bar following in a “ratchet,” which, in case of breakage of engine or bands, securely holds the cars against accident; and its efficiency may be judged by the fact that there has never yet been an accident. On reaching the summit of Mt. Pisgah, the car starts by its own gravity down the opposite grade. Its course is gradual, following the tortuous sinuosities of the sur- face; now glancing under the shade of broad-spreading trees, for a moment refreshing all with their cooling shade ; anon skirting the brink of a beetling crag, unfolding glimpses of the changing scenes below. Now we glide along the mountain side, and skim through the valleys, clearing at a bound the noisy streams which foam and boil far down among the rocks. The ride is exhilarating beyond description. Without motive power, we seem to fly through the air. The winter coasting which delighted our childhood days tames in comparison. - The car is under the complete control of the brakemen. It would acquire a speed of forty-five miles an hour, but is kept at eighteen. Six miles our downward course is held, to the base of Mt. Jefferson, up which we are drawn as before, and again descend a single mile to Summit Hill, where a half-hour's stay is made. This is a mining hamlet, whose chief attraction to the tourist is the “Burning Mine,” which has been on fire since 1832. The homeward ride is pleasant : we have no more planes to rise; our altitude is sufficient to give the grade, down which we glide mine miles to the point of starting. The pleasure of the party increases; familiarity with the Scene has banished the fear of fancied dangers; and all return feeling that they have received an unusual amount of satisfac- tion for a dollar; and not unfrequently repeat it the next day. It would seem that enough objects of interest about Mauch Chunk have already been described to insure its popularity; but the most beautiful feature remains,— Glen Onoko. Two miles above the village this fascinating spot is located. Cars by the “Central Railroad of New Jersey,” and “Lehigh Valley Railroad,” make several trips daily. It consists of a depression in the mountain, from which a fiery stream springs a thou- sand feet b successive leaps to the valley below, forming among the POPULAR RESORTS, ANI) HOW TO REACH THEM. . 155 rocks and precipices a rare combination of waterfalls and cascades, which are clothed with deep evergreen foliage, and ornamented by the bright flowers of the rhododendron. At much time and expense a good path, stairways, and rustic bridges have been constructed, to facilitate the visitor. The accompanying “cut” of Onoko Station will convey a good idea of the locality, which is known to boatmen as the “Turn-Hole,” from the “eddy” in the river formed by the current. The bluff on the left, through which the “Lehigh and Susquehanna” Division of the “Central Railroad of New Jersey” passes by tunnel, is properly known as Moyer's Rock, and possesses a traditional interest. The story is told in this wise: During the early settlement of the country, a noted hunter and Indian-fighter, living in Mahoning Valley, four miles south, who had hitherto eluded all attempts at capture, was surrounded, taken prisoner, and disarmed, by five Indian warriors, and left on the summit of this rock for security, guarded by two of their number, while the others hunted for game. Moyer was Sorely perplexed. To fight alone two armed Indians was not to be thought of ; and long he pondered. Suddenly starting, he listened intently, then relaxed into his former quiet. The Indians watched him unmoved. Again he started ; and, creeping to the very brink, throwing into his countenance all the interest he could command, he gazed intently down. The ruse succeeded : overcome by curiosity, the Indians unguardedly moved to his side, and sought to discover the source of interest; when, with the spring of the tiger, he seized and dashed them to the rocks below. The visitor to Glen Onoko should be well shod and suitably clothed, the refreshing coolness of the atmosphere rendering an extra “wrap * acceptable. The successive cascades, waterfalls, and other objects of interest, at Glen Onoko have each received appropriate names, and are worthy an individual description; but there are so many other interesting features of this picturesque region which demand a passing notice, that we must leave details to local guides. Mauch Chunk is not, as many Suppose, a mining town, but is, rather, the great coal-depot or shipping-mart of the Lehigh Valley. The pro- duction of coal is a subject of growing interest to the people of America; and, although it is not within the province of this volume to enter into a detailed description of the manner of working a coal-mine, yet a few lines for the benefit of those who would like to investigate the subject while in this region will be in place. The coal is found in veins of various thickness, and differently situated,—sometimes level, sometimes curved, often at an angle, and occasionally cropping out at the surface, from which the entrance is made. The experienced geologist can predict with approximate correctness the location of a vein of coal, and estimate the thickness of the overlying strata which must be pierced to reach it. 156 PopULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. Sometimes these tunnels enter at the upturned edge of the vein, and COAL BREAKER. descend with its inclination, and are termed slopes. These apertures are generally about eleven feet wide by seven feet high, and contain two rail- ways, - one for the descend- ing and one for the ascending cars, –and a “pump way” (for the mine must be continually cleared by the most powerful pumps), and a travelling or “man way.” The slopes vary in length, frequently descending to great depths, passing at times under towns and rivers. The longest slopes in the anthracite regions are at New Philadelphia, or Lewis Wein, 2,700 feet; and at Diamond Wein, which is from 2,800 to 3,000 feet: these are on an incline of about 45°. “Gangways" are turned off to the right and left; and in working the coal a “pillar” is left every few feet which sustains the overlying strata of rock, and prevents it falling in. <-- --- ---------- --- ************. MIN E. PopULAR REsorts, AND How To REACH THEM. 157 Within a distance of from two to five miles from the town of Wilkes Barre, through which this route leads us, there are worked over forty mines, producing in some cases 1,500 tons of coal daily from a single mine. The “Nesquehoning Valley Branch Railroad” leads from Mauch Chunk, and, connecting with the “Catawissa Railroad,” extends to Williamsport, a distance of ninety-two miles. This route is noted for the wildness of its scenery, its deep ravines, and high bridges, and must eventually become very popular with the pleasure-seeker. From Mau ch C h unk north - ward the Lehigh Valley is little bet- ter than a cafion enclosed between h i g h mountain walls, at who se base the ſº º ; - : . * tº narrow # =\ º º §§l stre a m º º - tumbles º a n d fo am s : its waters now dis- playing the rich a m be r h u e which they have distilled THE LEHIGH. from the Looking North from Mount Pisgah, Mauch Chunk. roots and Central Railroad of New Jersey. plants in the swamps around their source, now white from their encounter with rock 158 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. or fall. High rocks hang directly overhead, and threaten to fall at any moment upon the trains which constantly roll beneath : branches wave, and flowers blossom on the hillside, so close to the railroad track that the passengers can almost reach them without leaving their seats. Here and there a miniature waterfall springs from the mountain top, and glances, a ribbon of foam and spray, to the river at its foot; and at frequent intervals ravines cut in the mountain side present a confusion of rocks and wood and water to the eye of the traveller as he flashes by. Traced back a little from their mouths, these glens often show a wealth of beauty, a succession of Snowy cascades, transparent pools, and romantic nooks, which are an ever fresh surprise to the explorer. At Penn Haven, seven miles above Mauch Chunk, the “Lehigh Valley Railroad' connects with the “Mahanoy, Beaver Meadow, and Hazelton’’ Branches. The “Lehigh Valley” here crosses the river, and runs on the east bank to White Haven. Fifty years ago this whole valley was a wilderness, with one narrow wagon-road crawling at the base of the hills beside a mountain torrent, which defied all attempts to navigate it. Now the mountain walls make room for two railroads and a canal; but the tawny waters of the stream are nearly as free as ever. Here and there, indeed, a curb restrains them; and Once an elaborate system of dams and locks tamed the wild river, and made it from Mauch Chunk to White Haven a succession of deep and tranquil pools. “But one day in 1862 the waters rose in their might. Every dam was broken, every restraint swept away; and from White Haven to Mauch Chunk the stream ran free once more. The memory of that fearful day is still fresh in the minds of the dwellers of the valley; and the bed of the torrent is still strewn with the wrecks that went down before its wrath.” . . . Nescopec Junction is a place of little importance; but the “Nescopec Branch Railroad "leads nine miles into a valley filled with wild and picturesque scenery. This whole region is strange to the visitor. The valleys are deep, the precipices are bold and high, and the mountains steep. Even the waters rush with greater violence than in tamer countries. But the public will soon understand this scenery better. The artists, the pioneers of pleas- ure travel, have already heard of it, and each year visit it in increasing numbers. Soon the tide will set up this valley, hotels will be in demand to meet it, and the press will herald its praises. - Persons residing in our large cities hardly realize how quickly and for how small a sum these romantic places can be enjoyed. The morning train from New York or Philadelphia takes you to Mauch Chunk in season for dinner, — dinner steaming hot at the Mansion House. The “Switch-back ’’ and Glen Onoko can be visited in season to return at night. PopUIAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH the M. 159 The subjoined description of the Nescopec region is from “Lippincott's Magazine: ”— “We walked about a half-mile along a wood-road, struck into a foot- path, a u d followed it a hun- dred yards or so, and without warn- ing walked out on a flat rock, from which we could at first see nothing but fog, up, down, or around. It was a misty morning; but we made out Nescopec Valley. to understand that we were on the verge of a precipice, which fell sheer down into a tre- mendous abyss; and when the fog lifted we looked out upon miles and PROSPECT ROCK. 160 PopULAR RESORTS, ANI). How To REACH THEM. miles of valleys, partly cleared, but principally covered with primeval forests. We were on Prospect Rock. “Presently our guide took us by a roundabout way to Cloud Point. This is a commanding projection on the other side of the glen; and here a still wider view – another, yet the same — lay before us. There is something indescribably grand in the solitude of this scene, - forests of giant trees lifting high their heads, in places, where growths for thousands of years have stood before, through which peer rough- visaged rocks which the hand of Time has failed to smooth. We gazed with de- light on the beautiful land- scape, then descended into Glen Thomas, a gem of v, ***Cº-º-ºwº CLOUD POINT, UPPER LEHIGH. scenic loveliness; fresh in its pristine beauty and granduer. PopUI.AR REsonºrs, AND How to 1:EACH ruite M. 161 “Our visit was made on the first of May. We found here min. iature glaciers, formed by the water falling over the rocks, the ice three feet and more in thick- ness; while not a hundred yards away May-flow- ers were blooming in fragrant abundance. This region is filled with an untold wealth for the artist and lover of nature.” And the time is not far distant when the travelling public, wearied by oft-repeated visits to old resorts, will demand the opening of these fresh and charming scenes. - From White Haven to the “Summit,” on the main lime, the landscape is more tame: the soil is poor; and the trees present that stunted appear- ance usual at high latitudes. But this brief respite tends to make the startling scenery through which the road soon passes mºsº even more effective. Having passed |ºl the crest of Wilkes Barre Mountain, the train glides rapidly down the opposite grade, and soon enters that wonderful gorge known as Solo- mon's Gap, the scene of the an- nexed engraving. This is the head of a system of planes by which loaded cars from the coal-fields be- low are raised by the Company of the Central Railroad of New Jersey. We get here the first glimpse of “Wyoming Valley,” which we are ap- proaching at right angles. The Sus- quehanna can be seen in the valley, beyond which ranges of mountains rise in the blue distance. In altitude we are far, far above the Wyoming Valley; and the construction of the road by which it was reached was a ||| º -- rare feat of engineering skill. It is º º º - º | º º but three miles in an air-line to the ſº - small village of Ashley, seen below; § º ". yet, to overcome the grade, for eighteen GLEN THOMAS. miles the cars glance along the mountain sides, following in its zigzag course its varied irregularities. Engraved erpressly for Bachelder's “Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Theºn." I, Lehigh Valley SOLOMON'S GAP, 3. Ashley, Railroad. 4. Stationary Engine and 2. Susquehanna, Railroad " Plane." POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 163 We enter the gorge, and turn to the right, while across the valley can be seen the line of the “Lehigh Valley" Road, which, having kept us company from Bethlehem, now turns around the point to the left, to meet us twenty minutes later at the town below. The view from a half-mile below Solomon's Gap is remarkable. (See engraving.) Its composition varies so decidedly from any witnessed in the Lehigh Val- ley, that it always awakens feelings of surprise and awe. Here, sur- rounded by scenes of the wildest grandeur, the beautiful Wyoming Valley bursts like a flood of light suddenly upon you. The train glides smoothly on, the scene unfolds, and we are soon at Ashley, near the foot of the mountain. From Ashley, ninety miles from Easton, the “Nanticote Branch Rail- road '' extends twelve miles to Nanticote, on the . Susquehanna River. Wilkes Barre, ninety-nine miles from Easton, is located in Luzerne County, in the Valley of Wyoming, on the north branch of the Susque- hanna. At this place visitors to the “North Mountain House" change to the “Lackawanna and Bloomsburg’” Road; but it will be better to spend the night at Wilkes Barre. Fortunately they will find at the “Wyoming Valley Hotel” a house replete with every thing necessary for the comfort of guests. It is pleasantly located on the banks of the Sus- quehanna, of which it commands some charming views. - - The town of Wilkes Barre possesses historical associations of rare interest : its tragic deeds have oft been the theme of the historian's pen and the poet's muse. It is also a well-built town, and its surroundings are pleasant; and it will, withal, prove an interesting place of sojourn for tourists. From Pittston, nine miles above Wilkes Barre, the road leaves the Sus- quehanna, and follows the course of the Lackawanna twelve miles, through Scranton to Green Ridge, where it connects with the “Delaware and Hudson Railroad ‘’ for Cooperstown, Sharon, and Saratoga Springs, Albany, Lake George, Lake Champlain, Montreal, &c. “From New York and Philadelphia, the tourist to Saratoga, Watkins. Glen, Niagara Falls, and the West is, by this route, transported through a wild and picturesque region, comparatively unknown to tourists. Much of the scenery is unlike that of any other section of the country; and, if only to gain a knowledge of the operation of the mammoth collieries of Pennsylvania, which have been scarcely alluded to in this article, it will amply repay an excursion on the ‘Central Railroad of New Jersey,’ its connections and branches.” - 164 PopULAR REsofºrs, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. If the tourist contemplates a through trip from Philadelphia or New York by the route described, Scranton will be found the natural place to spend the night; and for this purpose, or longer, good accommodations will be found at the Lackawanna Valley or “Wyoming.” Hotels. LACKAWANNA VALLEY HOUSE. Three railway lines centre at Scranton, — the Lehigh and Susque- hanna, over which we have come; the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western ; and the Lackawanna and Bloomsburg. In addition is the Pennsylvania Coal Company's Gravity Railroad, of which a fuller de- scription will be given. A half-hour's drive into the suburbs along a romantic and pictur- esque road leads to a deep cañon, which the writer has christened Scranton Gorge, through which rushes a wild, turbulent stream, hemmed in by towering trees, and bounded by ramparts of stone, popularly known as Roaring Brook. As its name suggests, and from the descrip- tion already given, the reader will see that this is one of those romantic dells always pleasing to the lover of Nature in her wildest moods. The stream, which is of the purest water, comes frolicking down the moun- tain side, now leaping some slight obstruction or miniature cascade; now, overhung by rock or vine, it moves lazily along, till at last the brink is reached, and, with a startled leap, down it springs, a beautiful cascade, into the shadowy depths of Scranton Gorge. To this an Indian name is given : they call it Nayaug Falls. Engraved expressly for Bachelder's “Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them." NAYAUG FALLS, SCRANTON GORGE. Near Scranton, Penn. 166 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How to REACH THEM. But Scranton's great attraction is the “Switchback,” over Moosie Mountain and the Highlands beyond, via the Pennsylvania Coal Com- pany's road, from Scranton to Hawley on the Delaware, thirty-five miles distant. This is the longest gravity road in the world. As a pleasure route it is comparatively new, and is so entirely unlike ordinary pleasure routes that it is sure to become one of the attractions of this region. Preceding its description, the reader should have a brief history of this remarkable road, which, although in character not of unusual construc- tion in the mining regions, is elsewhere of very uncommon occurrence. Although it has for many years formed an important link in the system of coal transportation - in Pennsylvania, its history abroad is very limited. - Strangers visiting Scranton º manifested such interest in it, *... º that the management deter- *\s - Engraved expressly for Bachelder's “Popular Resorts, and mined to shorten the route, and How to Reach. Them." Place excursion cars on the switcheack RAILROAD, Moosic HIGHLANDs. tracks to accommodate them. Scranton, Penn. To increase the facilities for coal-transportation to market, it became necessary to construct a railroad from Scranton thirty miles across a mountainous country to the village of Hawley. To grade such a road for locomotive use was found simply impracticable; but the difficulty was overcome by erecting stationary engines on the summits of the moun- PopULAR RESORTS, AND IIow To REACH THEM. 167 tains; from these a broad iron band extends down, and attaches to the car; by this you are drawn to the mountain top, from which the road again descends on the opposite slope, not direct, but following at an angle along the side, falling at easy grade, governed safely by the brake. The descent on the opposite side is frequently by a circuitous route of many miles. When fully made, and another mountain reached, the cars are drawn up this as before, and again descend. And so by nine- teen planes the route is passed for thirty-five miles and back. To the uninitiated the first thought will be danger. The best answer is, that in many years of constant use for passenger travel (for since its con- struction it has been used as such by the local inhabitants), not an accident has occurred. The same machinery that lifts the light cars with living freight constantly draws six loaded coal cars of more than ten times the weight. --- ------> * Engraved erpressly for Bachelder's “Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them." Jon ES LAKE, SWITCHBACK RAILROAD. The most attractive section of this route is between Plane No. 6 at Dunmore, at which station tourists usually embark, and No. 19 near that 168 POPULAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. charming little sheet of water, Jones Lake. Plane No. 19 is only fourteen miles distant, and is on the return route from Hawley; but it is reached by a connecting track, allowing tourists, when they desire, to cross to Jones Lake, and have several hours at this delightful spot while the balance of the train has completed the entire trip to Hawley and back. Moosic Mountain, or Moosic Highlands, as the section crossed by the “Switchback" Railroad is commonly termed, is a spur of the Blue Ridge. The line of the road passes beyond over an undulating country to the Delaware River at Hawley, intersecting with cars and canal for the Hudson via Port Jervis. The outward trip is by the “loaded track,” as it is termed, as the coal-cars go by it loaded; the “light track" is that by which we return. Language fails to describe the singular sensation produced by a ride on these cars. If in winter we coast down the slippery hillside, or if in summer we “scud before the wind” in a sail-boat, the mind, from early associations, has been prepared for the sport; but this is a new expe- rience which cannot fail to please. The “first sensation" ex- perienced by the tourist is while ascend- ing Plane No. 6, from Dun- more. The signalisgiven, and the cars start with a throb. Up, up they go above the village, above the tree- tops, above the checkered city which now lies at your feet, above the broad valley, each moment opening wider to view, and through which in tortuous course winds the Lackawanna, above the mountains on your right and left, till the whole landscape gradually unrolls, and like a map lies spread out before you. This sensation is so magical, so exhilarating, that it rises above the ordinary forms of description. WYOMING HOUSE. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 169 Between Dunmore and Jones Lake there are seven inclined planes, each two thousand feet in length, and each having an elevation of two hun- dred feet. At least two of them are usually overcome before the tourist has settled himself down for a full appreciation of the situation, and he is then prepared to enjoy the novelty of the scene. DELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL COMPANY'S RAILROADS. From Scranton the route continues past Green Ridge, the terminus of the Central New Jersey’s leased road, the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad, and Carbondale, a city of marked enterprise and thrift, to the junction of the Nineveh Branch with the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad. Although the scenery from Philadelphia and New York to Scranton varies continually, and presents new charms with every mile of road, that from Scranton to this place will be found exceedingly attractive. After being whirled along a route hemmed in by scenes of the wildest grandeur, it is a relief to change to pleasing landscape, where the lines melt in harmony, and are clothed with the picturesque. The train on the “Albany and Susquehanna ’’ with which we inter- sect is from Binghamton, with passengers from that city, Elmira, Wat- kins Glen, and the West, en route to the same points of interest to which we are bound. Our route in a north-easterly direction lies along the banks of the Susquehanna, whose placid waters move lazily on in remarkable contrast to the turbulent Lehigh, up which we have so recently passed. We cross and recross the stream as we glide onward through this fruitful agricultural region, — a fine rolling country with broad fields sweeping down to the river-banks, dotted here and there with thrifty farm-houses, and interspersed with flourishing villages. Cooperstown, on a branch road to the left, will next attract the attention of the tourist. & “This popular resort is the county seat of Otsego County, N.Y., and is situated at the south end of Otsego Lake. It is one of the literary Meccas of America; for here was the home of J. Fenimore Cooper, and in these scenes he wrote those wonderful American, stories, which the English-reading world have placed on a level of popularity with the undying fictions of Walter Scott. In his ‘Deerslayer,’ he describes the lake and surrounding hills. A late guide-book says, “The same points still exist which “Leather-Stocking ” saw. There is the same beauty of verdure along the hills; and the sun still glints as brightly as then the ripples of the clear water.” The whole region is full of interest, because of the creations of Cooper's genius; and his romances have a new zest and beauty when read amid the scenes that inspired them. 170 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. The surroundings of the lake are all beautiful; and the entire region is full of interest. In close proximity are several favorite resorts accessible by a small steamer which runs on the lake, which is widely famed for its bass and pickerel fishing.” Two miles out from the village is Hannah’s Hill, made celebrated by the great novelist Cooper, as a summit furnishing the most be- witching of scenery, the beautiful lakes of his much-loved Cumberland scarcely competing with them. It is also said, that the name “Hannah” was given in compliment to Cooper, it being the name of his favorite daughter. From this elevation, only two miles eastward from the village, is seen Mount Vision overlooking the enchanting Otsego Lake, of which Cooper sang in charming prose verse, “A broad sheet of water, so limpid and placid that it resembled a bed of the pure mountain atmosphere compressed into a setting of hills and woods. Nothing is wanted but ruined castles and recollections, to raise it to the level of the Rhine.” Near Hannah's Hill is Leather-Stocking Cave, only a mile and a half from the village; and Leather-Stocking Falls, or The Panther's Leap, is at the top of a wild gorge near by, and at the head of Otsego Lake. Council Rock is a mile or two on, a round-topped surface, five feel liigli, where the Indian tribes of “long ago” were given to meet, and form their treaties. The Cooper House furnishes first class accommodations to tourists who may visit this beautiful village and its many points of interest in the neighborhood. “The Susquehanna River takes its rise in Otsego Lake, and after winding through forest defiles, across broad meadow lands, past rural hamlets and pretentious cities, for nearly four hundred miles in a southerly direction, finally rushes through the outstretched arms of Chesapeake Bay into the welcome bosom of the Atlantic Ocean.” Cooper's Monument forms a lasting memorial of a great man, and is a silent reminder that the visitor treads historic ground. Richfield Springs. – “These springs, long and favorably known, are in Otsego County, N.Y., in the vicinity of Cooperstown, and seven miles distant from Otsego Lake, which is one of the sources of the Sus- quehanna. The great river of Pennsylvania here extends his arms, and intwines his fingers with the tributaries of the Mohawk, as if to divert that gentle river from its allegiance to the Hudson. The village of Rich- field Springs is situated on a narrow plain near the head of Schuyler's Lake, which is five miles in length, and a mile and a quarter at its greatest breadth. This little lake is surrounded with high hills on every side except the northward; and, being but a mile from the Springs, forms the principal attraction for visitors. According to tradition, the POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 171 waters of these springs were sought for their medicinal virtues, by the Indians, long before the advent of the white men. A healing prophet of the Iroquois dwelt on an island in the midst of the lake ; and the suf- fering came to him, to be cured by the waters he secured at night and conveyed secretly to his retreat. But the Great Spirit became angered at his pride, and sunk him and his island beneath the deep waters.” These springs may also be reached by rail vià Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railroad. Returning to the main line of the “Albany and Susquehanna,” the road continues to follow the same interesting valley, with water views, hills, and rich cultivated scenery on either side. The country has an inviting look. At Cobles Kill Junction the “Cherry Valley Branch " train is in waiting to take us to Sharon Springs, fourteen miles to the left. This famous summer resort is in Scoharie County, and has since 1830 maintained its full share of popular favor. The village of Sharon is a mile or two from the station, with coaches in constant attendance; and during the “season’’ the hurry and excitement of getting off is just suf- ficient to spice the occasion, and gives us a reminder of the days when this popular place was reached entirely by stages, as are most of the Virginia springs at this time. Sharon seems to be located in and around a valley scooped out of the northern face of a ridge of land. Although in a valley you are still on a hill, as can be best seen from the broad veranda of the Pavilion Hotel, which, facing the north, com- mands one of the most extensive and satisfactory views known in the State, – the rich valley of the Mohawk bounded by mountain chains in blue, rising in the north, extending even to the Adirondacks, and the Green Mountains of Vermont. - The immediate location of the springs is in a ravine hemmed in by vine-clad precipices hundreds of feet high. Among stately groves of primitive trees, serpentine walks and rustic seats add to the cultivated charms of the scene; but the great attraction and wonder is the springs, five in number, chalybeate, white sulphur, blue sulphur, magnesia, and pure water, all of which gush from the ground within a few feet of each other, and form the great attraction which annually fills this romantic village. Having returned to the Albany and Susquehanna main line, we are in close proximity to one of the most noble natural curiosities in the land, – Howe's Cave; and yet so little is known of it abroad that the tour- ist may find it difficult, even a few miles away, to gain any reliable information about this wonderful freak of nature. Howe's Cave is within a gunshot of the station of the same name, and is said to be the second in size in the United States. It is esti- 172 PopULAR REsorts, AND How to REACH THEM. mated to be eight miles long, with many portions yet unexplored. The author, in company with a party of ladies, visited the first two miles of it in 1874 with the most satisfactory results. Being somewhat pressed for time, and not having taken this “stop” into account, the thought occurred that this cavern could be visited as well at night as by day; and it was arranged to spend the night at the Cave House, which, by the way, we found one of the most homelike places on our tour. - - Erºğ - - - -- º: Fº- - - ---> Žº Nº-º-º: %fº --~~~~~ --> - - --- -- rº- Zºtºvº- - - -- T º #| ||iº F.T. ſºlº - º ºfeº - ºº: -- =ſº º º l - º º º - º º ºl- CAVE HOUSE, HOWE'S CAVE. The house is built of stone, finished in hard wood, with accommo- dations and appointments so comfortable and chaste, and grounds so well kept, that it seems more like a private villa than a public hotel. The size is its only drawback, and it will doubtless be enlarged to meet the increasing demands of travel. It will always be safe, however, to stop over a train, which will allow time for dinner, and to examine the cave, and by previous arrangement longer stop could be made if desired. We visited it in the evening ; the passage for the first three-fourths of a mile was lighted by gas (I think the only cave that is so lighted). And here it may be said, that to this point any person, lady or gentle- PoPULAR RESORTs, AND How To REACH THEM. 173 man, can go, who is physically able to make the same distance on a coun- try road artificially lighted. Beyond that it is more difficult, though the ladies of our party found no trouble. Generally, it is comparatively dry walking, in places wet, and inclined to be slippery on the moistened clay, for which reason a heavy leather boot is preferable to rubber. The entrance is not from, but in close proximity to, the house, and is by a descending stairway to the “Reception-Room,” an apartment of considerable dimensions. It possesses an even temperature of sixty degrees the entire year, rendering it comparatively warm in winter, and delightfully cool in summer. There is good air, with free circulation. The floorway to the lake, about three-fourths of a mile, has been improved, and is comparatively level; and along this section, also, several artificial cuttings have greatly facilitated the passage. The cave is nowhere for any considerable distance of the same dimensions. It lowers in places until you are glad you are no taller than you are, then widens and increases in height until the top is lost in obscurity, and can only be measured by a string attached to a lighted hot-air balloon. Among the names given to different localities are “The Reception Room,” “Washington Hall,” “Bridal Chamber,” “Chapel,” “Harlequin Tunnel,” “Cataract Hall,” “Ghost-Room, or Haunted Castle,” “Music Hall,” “Stygian or Crystal Lake,” across which you are ferried. Be- yond the lake are “Plymouth Rock,” “Devil’s Gateway,” “Museum,” “Geological Rooms,” “Uncle Tom's Cabin,” “Giant's Study,” “Pirate's Cave,” “Rocky Mountains,” “Valley of Jehoshaphat,” “Winding Way,” and “Rotunda.” These are among the names given to different sec- tions by Mr. Howe the discoverer, or by visitors. Stalactites and stalag- mites are everywhere to be seen. A stream of running water comes from the cave. This is influenced by the seasons, and is subject to rapid rises and heavy floods, sweeping with it every movable thing left therein. Indeed, this phenomenon has been utilized to clear the cavern of surplus earth and other débris. There are several side pas- sages yet unexplored, in which the sound of running water can be heard. Howe's Cave possesses the advantage of easy access, only thirty- nine miles from the city of Albany, on the line of a prominent rail- road, and within a gunshot of one of its stations; and, with good hotel accommodations, it is not surprising that it is now receiving so much attention. There are other and smaller caves in this vicinity, but this was only recently discovered; and, for considerable time, Mr. Howe's familiarity with such scenes caused him to forget that what might be so simple a thing to him would be a curiosity of great interest to others. And it is only of recent date that preparations have been made to accommodate all who come. Tourists will also be glad to learn that this cavern is located in the midst of beautiful scenery, sufficient of * 174 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. itself to attract attention. The reader will have seen that this entire region, since we struck the “Albany and Susquehanna,” is admirably adapted to summer recreations. This may be said particularly of Schoharie. This place is the county seat of Schoharie County, N.Y., and is located thirty-three miles from Albany, in one of the loveliest and most picturesque valleys of the Empire State. Its splendid drives along the banks of the Schoharie River, and its mountain Scenery, is unsurpassed. From the top of the Sager-Warner Mountain, four miles east of the village, the tourist has spread out to view an extent of terri- tory as far as the eye can reach. To the south he sees the Catskill Mountains, to the north the Adirondacks, to the east the Green Moun- tains of Vermont, and to the west a vast expanse of hill and dale. Three miles to the west of Schoharie is located the famous Howe's Cave. Sharon Springs is but twenty miles from Schoharie, and Saratoga Springs but twenty-six miles. A trip can be made by rail to either of these places, and return the same day. Two good hotels in the village are specially adapted for summer visitors. The Parrott House accom- modates about a hundred and twenty guests, and Wood's Hotel seventy- five. Three express liaius per day each way connect Schoharie with the city of Albany. With a population of eighteen hundred, four churches, an academy, and choice society, it is not surprising that the place is filled by visitors every summer, especially when the cost of living is less than half what it would be in the city. Continuing east from Howe’s Cave or Schoharie, the tourist can go direct to Albany, connecting with the Hudson River boats or cars for New York, the Boston and Albany Railroad for Boston, or continue up the river to Troy or Saratoga. The scenery by this line is a continua- tion of the same pleasing succession of landscapes along which we have passed, station after station gliding by without special attraction. Near New Scotland is located Lawson's Lake, which will command the atten- tion of the curious. The outlet of this sheet of water sinks, and passes for a mile and a half through a subterranean passage, or cavern. In formation it possesses the characteristics of all the caves for which this region is noted. Stalactites and stalagmites abound. There are several caverns in this neighborhood, varying in size, one of which was formerly Occupied by a band of smugglers. The more direct route to Saratoga is to go from Howe's Cave via Schenectady. This “branch” diverges to the left from Quaker Street, leading north-east down into the valley of the Mohawk. At Schenectady the route crosses the line of the Central New York Railroad, continuing to Ballston and Saratoga. g PopUIAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 175 Saratoga Springs, N.Y. — Elsewhere, very brief allusion is made to Saratoga and to Niagara Falls. These famous places are so well known and generally understood, that any special account of their pecu- liarities would seem to be unnecessary and superfluous. Possibly, how- ever, more particular notice may be desirable by some who read this work, to aid in deciding “Where am I to go?” in vacation time, and who wish to consider the whole field. Saratoga Springs may be visited from New York City, either by the Hudson River to Albany, or by the New York Central Railroad; and a new and very desirable route, from the romantic scenery it passes, is viſt Central Railroad of New Jersey, through Mauch Chunk, Wilkesbarre, Scranton, &c. (see description of Central Railroad of New Jersey); or from Boston, – circuitous but diversified and charming routes, – by various railroads; those from the Fitchburg, the Boston and Albany, and the Lowell passing through every description of inhabited, rural, and mountainous regions, and therefore to be preferred. Taking either of these initial points as the starting- place, ample novelties will invite one's leisure throughout the distances travelled. The chief places of special interest found by the New York line of travel have already been noted. The sweep around the country required by the Boston start is rich in natural and artificial wonders. Commencing at either of the named Boston stations, the first hour passes in the midst of delightful towns and villages, which are mere tributaries of Boston, and are sustained by, and aid to sustain, the great “Hub.” Here are residences of perfect taste, and surrounded by rural charms, filling the minds of visitors with continued pleasure. Some of the places through which the lines of travel pass are renowned in Colonial and Revolutionary histories. Those routes which converge at Fitchburg diverge again towards Saratoga Springs, Niagara Falls, the Adirondacks, Lake George, the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and the health- ful quietudes of the Green Mountains of Vermont. Whichever course is preferred, the enthusiasm of the refined traveller constantly warms and renews as the glory and splendor of summer verdure, of hills, val- leys, meadows, purling streams, and Cosey homes, – all speeding by like the flight of birds, - break upon the vision in ever-varying novelty and freshness. It may well be remarked here, that no veteran of the road ever prepares for a pleasure jaunt without first procuring tables of rail- road and water lines of communication, and thoroughly mastering his course of march and how he will proceed. IIe then secures his through ticket, and is prepared to enjoy his pleasure campaign, without the flutter and annoyance of constant doubt as to whither he is moving, and where any change of base should be made. Ladies, especially, ought to ponder this hint. Should your course from Boston be towards Niagara Falls or the Adi- 176 1°01’ULAR RESORTS, AND How TO REACH THEM, | rondacks or Quebec, your departure is made from Fitchburg by a different line from the one to be chosen if the aim be for the mountain regions of New Hampshire or Vermont. This the intelligent reader will readily understand. Of course, should you curve around towards the populous State of New York, the chief features of the country will be studded by characteristics of man's busy industry and aggregation into communities. But in the sparsely settled States of New Hampshire and Vermont, Nature still reigns in undisturbed stillness, and in the full beauty and bloom of her pristine charms. Having decided, then, by what ways you will approach, say, Saratoga Springs, and having reached that fashionable Mecca at last, what are you to do? What is is there to be “done " ? Simply nothing, or nearly that, except to drink water from one or all of the thirty odd medicinal springs of the place, and be fashionable, according to the sickly senti- mentality of that health restoring and destroying spot. “Like Newport by the sea, Saratoga is often called the Queen of Amer- ican watering-places; and this dual sovereignty is generally acknowl- edged. The hotel system of Saratoga is unrivalled elsewhere in the world; and, although equal to the accommodation of eighteen thousand guests, it is taxed to its utmost capacity in the month of August (the seasoil opens early in June). Broadway is the main street, and extends for sev- eral miles, with the chief hotels near its centre, and a succession of costly villas beyond. The village is at its brightest in August, when it is thronged with visitors, and thousands of private and public carriages join in the parade of fashion on Broadway and the boulevard. During the “height of the season, the crowds to be seen in all public places, the brilliant balls at the grand hotels, the music of excellent bands, and the many other excitements always prevailing, — make up a scene prob- ably unequalled in the world.” The whole sum of natural scenery, worthy of a walk or ride, afforded by the Saratoga Springs area, is surpassed by almost any rural resort of our land. If the springs were to dry up, the birds of fashionable plumage would flit forever, and the whole of that now populous and prosperous resort would “dry up" as well. While approaching Saratoga, and within an easy radius of that place, the lover of old stories and romantic adventures may find abundant food for contemplation in hunting up the many historic fields of wilderness campaigns, renowned in the quaint old primitive days. Encounters between our Colonial ancestors and the French and Indians, – extending from Canada, over wilderness and lake, on to Saratoga itself, - with their startling and bloody incidents, fill the mind with a strange fascination. Every schoolboy knows the story, especially the last scene, when the boastful Burgoyne surrendered to the sturdy patriots under Gates. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 177 The opening of that portion of the New York and Canada Railroad which admits of direct rail communication from Saratoga to Ticonderoga vià Whitehall will preclude the necessity of running boats between Whitehall and Ticonderoga as heretofore, which will only go to Ticon- deroga; and the branch road between that place and Lake George will do away with the stage-line by which tourists have been transferred from one lake to the other. The fine scenery along this new line of road, the magnificent water views which it affords on the right, as you move north, the rich variety of landscape on the left, with its deep cuts, heavy fills, and rugged mountain scenes, will present entirely new attrac- tions to the traveller. The historic associations of Ticonderoga will command the attention of visitors, who will frequently “lay over " at least one trip to study the relics of the past. From this point they may continue by rail to Lake George, only four miles away, or embark on the magnificent palace-boats for a sail on Lake Champlain. - Lake George. — “Few, if any, among the numerous picturesque lakes in America are more beautiful or more celebrated than this, which lies between the Counties of Washington and Warren, in the State of New York, and is thirty-six miles long, varying in breadth from three- quarters of a mile to four miles, and in many places is four hundred feet in depth. It is in the midst of mountains; and popular belief credits it with islands equal in number to the days of the year. History, as well as tradition, lingers around it, marking many spots with more than ordi- nary interest. Not the least among these are the ruins of Fort William Henry and Fort George (the former now occupied by a splendid summer hotel). Sir William Johnson, prompted by his loyalty, named it Lake George, after one of the Georges of Great Britain; and this title has been permitted to remain as its designation. A writer, describing the many attractions of the lake, says, “It has something of interest for every one, – the lover of history, of romance, of beauty, and lovers generally.’” The sail across this lake is an experience of delightful remembrance. Lake George with its surroundings seems a fairy land of wonderful fas- cinations. Its points and inlets, its charmingly attractive shores and islands, are admirably adapted to facilitate the pleasures of a camping- out party, where the weary of body and mind, or the despondent and languid invalid, and no less the strong and healthful, will find mind and body invigorated, and the soul elevated, by a sojourn among the pic- turesque beauties of this lovely lake. Several of the islands are inhabited, and others contain ornamental structures for summer amusements. On the shores of the lake are sev- eral popular resorts and many private villas. After Fort William Henry 178 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Hotel,Crosby Side, Recluse Island, &c., are among the more attractive features as you sail down the lake. The tourist who would continue his visit from Saratoga or Lake George to the White Mountains, viá Burlington, to Montreal, Quebec, or the Adirondacks, will embark on one of the magnificent lake steam- ers at Ticonderoga. Lake Champlain. — “This useful as well as beautiful sheet of water lies between the States of New York and Vermont, and extends a short distance into Canada. It is, in extreme length, about one hundred and thirty miles, and varies in width from half a mile to fifteen miles, the water, in places, being near three hundred feet deep. The Vermont shores of the lake are generally fertile and well cultivated; while those of New York are wild, rocky, and barren, rising into vast mountains, and contain rich iron deposits. “The shores of Lake Champlain are not only interesting in them- selves, but they hold many places of celebrity and attractiveness. The ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga stand out upon a high, rocky cliff at the confluence of the outlet of Lake George with Lake Champlain. The remains of the fortress at Crown Point loom up opposile LU Chimncy Point. The localities where Burgoyne held his famous Indian council, and made his treaty, and where Arnold fought with Carleton, are pointed out. Plattsburg, the scene of the battles on the 11th of September, 1814, in which Commodore McDonough gained his signal naval victory, and Gen. Macomb compelled Sir George Prevost to retire into Canada, is the most conspicuous and interesting point on the lake. Numerous natural curiosities exist on its islands and shores; but space will not permit their mention here. Burlington, a beautiful city on the Vermont shore, is well worth the attention of tourists. From Plattsburg the Adirondacks are reached with facility; and it is a starting-point for Au Sable Chasm, one of the most remarkable curiosities in the United States.” Those northward bound continue to Rouse's Point, from which they can go to Montreal and Quebec, visit the noted springs in Vermont, or turn to the west through a wild region to Ogdensburg, and thence by boats to Alexandria Bay and the Thousand Islands, and so on to Niagara. The Adirondacks of New York have sprung into sudden and universal fame and favoritism. The region has all the novelty of a primeval land, diversified by every variety of landscape and unsearched Solitudes ; and has the freshness and rare American novelty of guides, who alone know the secret of this new paradise. The atmosphere is remarkably pure, and free from malarious poisons POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO IREACH THEM. 179 and from chilling damps, so that sudden colds and tormenting fever- heats are scarcely known. At present the Adirondacks may boast solely of its primitive charms; but the region will, it may be feared, be mate- rially altered in this respect ere long, as visitors are annually numbered by thousands. To ladies claiming invalid propensities, or to those disposed to shrink from rough adventure or the hardships of the explorers, this wild tract is, perhaps, totally uninviting ; but for the novelties of camp-life, and utter freedom of conventional rules, it is all that can be desired. The region is to be found in the northern portion of the State, a wil- derness of immense tract, Occupying space equal in area to the entire State of Connecticut. There are several routes by which this wilderness may be entered; the most popular, because it is most flavored of adventure, is by way of Lake Champlain. Leaving the boat at Port Kent, a post-coach conveys the traveller by plank road to Keeseville, from whence he will follow along the Au Sable River twelve miles, arriving at Au Sable Forks; and at that point, if he has the mountains particularly in view, he will direct his course south, leaving the Saranac Lake region to the west. On the way from Keeseville, about a mile and a half off, the Au Sable River furnishes to the traveller on this route the first natural wonder of the Adirondacks,— a leap of nearly thirty feet into a semicircular basin of great beauty; and this is only the beginning of a series of the wildest of river falls, cascades, and jagged rocks. The walls of the Au Sable vary in rocky height, rising from ninety to a hundred and twenty-five feet. One of its precipices resembles Niagara, leading off the river to a course one hundred and fifty feet below, into scenery of intense wild- ness, equalling in miniature the picturesqueness of America's greatest fall. It is thus followed up to its source, forming on its way a chain of grandeur and frequent surprises, rivalling any thing east of the Rocky Mountains. Having reached the Lakes Upper and Lower Au Sable, the traveller finds himself completely at the heart of mountain and forest surround- ings. Here in this savage gorge, the wildest part of the Adirondacks, the Hudson River takes its rise. The main stream of the Au Sable flows from the north-east, the Hudson south-west, and each from the locally known as Indian Pass. If the visitor prefers a less toilsome journey to this point, starting from the village of Au Sable Forks, he can, instead of following up the river on foot or with guide and boat, turn off into a road through the village of Jay and on by Wilmington, moving south through the John Brown Region on to White Face or Wilmington Notch. This range, although practically belonging under the Adirondack title, is somewhat distinct, 180 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. being a sort of “branch range.” Blue Mountain, Dia’s Peak, Nippleton, Core Hill, Moor Mountain, White Face, and other grand peaks, belong to this group. White Face is the most northern, and, with the exception of Mount Marcy its neighbor, the loftiest of this wilderness of crests. The traveller will prefer here to move by land rather than by water; for although the lakes are numerous, and guides and boats easily ob- tained, it is among the hills that the chief attractions are found. Hav- ing laid aside ordinary travelling costume, and donned backwoods garments, he is ready for his fight. The monarch of the glen, Mount Marcy, or Tahamus (“the cloud- splitter ’’), is 5,467 feet high. The trail to the summit of this mountain is twelve miles, an exceedingly toilsome ascent. Mount McIntire, near by, has an elevation almost as great; Dial, McMartin, and Colden are also very lofty; and the ravines, lakes, and waterfalls to be seen from them are inexhaustible. Many of the wild animals of our northern latitude — the bear, wolf, and wildcat — abound; with several valuable fur animals, — otter, mink, and muskrat. Hunters and trappers are occasionally to be met, although there are no settlements of any account. These men are always ready to act as guides, either to tramp the mountains, or uavigate the lakes for pickerel, or the streams for trout. Ten or twelve years ago, moose and deer were plenty, but now are rarely found. At Mount Seward, the most inaccessible of all the mountains, the American panther is frequently found. . Having satisfied himself with the mountain research, wearied of the continual hard climbing, and the weird wildness of it all, the traveller may turn with a certain feeling of relief towards the more subdued re- gion in which the lakes abound. Lake Colden, about six miles west of Mount Marcy, lies almost at the outskirts of the Wilmington Notch: it is a lovely, placid sheet, “per- fectly embosomed amid gigantic mountains, and looking, for all the World, like an innocent child sleeping in a robber's embrace.” Beyond Colden, is Avalanche Lake, around which stand Wallface, McIntire, and McMartin. Leaving these behind, the start may be for the valley of the Saranac, by Way of North Elba, stopping perhaps to visit the John Brown Farm, and the bowlder by which the old hero was buried. Stages are in wait- ing to convey passengers over to Baker’s and Blood’s Inns, which are to be seen as the Lower Saranac is approached, about twelve miles off. Guides with their boats can be obtained here by those who wish to enter the forest and river streams surrounding the lakes. Excellent fishing is found on Ray Brook and other tributaries of the Saranacs. The favorite trip, next to the easy excursions among the islands and POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 181 bays of the lakes, is to Lake Placid. It is two miles north of the vil- lage, and is the most charming of all the Adirondack resorts. Paradoa. Pond is near by, and has an inexplicable tidal flow to and from the lake. Schroon and Branch Lakes, a few miles south, are famous sheets of water, and are often approached by sportsmen. Round Lake, midway between Upper and Lower Saranac, connecting the two by means of narrow streams branching out from either side, is a little lake gem of unusual beauty. It is round, as its name implies, about four miles in diameter, and surrounded by hills under whose shadows it sleeps in placid loveliness. This lake will well repay the traveller for a week of study. It will not satiate by a never-changing calm, or weary the visitor with continued restlessness; for, like the Sen- sitive-plant, it seems to be a thing of the tropics, and away off in this wild country out of its element. Still and peaceful in the warm sun- light, as if never disturbed, the little islands dotting it with picturesque verdure, it will suddenly, in answer to turbulent wind, ruffle itself, and appear strong and defiant in character, in sublime contrast to its restful mood. In all this lake country will be found, one after another, in quick suc- cession as it were, almost numberless streams, pools, ponds, and lakes. Going twenty-six miles south-west from Upper Saranac, will be found Big Tupper Lake, which, as if Nature were much pleased with its arrange- ment of the Saranacs, is in imitation thereof; for it is connected to its sister, Little Tupper, by a river stream, and also Round Pond, which, less beautiful than the lake is namesake, was allowed to imitate only in less pretentious title. The Tuppers are but seldom visited, on account of remoteness; but they afford excellent sporting and very lovely scenery. Lying twenty miles south of Little Tupper, through a forest alley holding the Raquette River, is Raquette Lake, approached through turbu- lent falls, and exceedingly wild woodland scenery. It is at this point that “Mother Johnson’s ” is reached, - a low, quaint log house, where the pancakes of Murray fame are served. Raquette Lake is twelve miles long, and about five wide. It is seventeen hundred feet above tho sea. Its environing forests, graceful islands, and mountain ranges in view, combine to enhance its charms. Fish and game are plentiful here, although few visitors come on account of its poverty of inn and guide accommodations. About five miles beyond Johnson’s the Raquette River widens, flowing north-east into the beautiful Long Lake, on whose waters lie the most charming of islands. The largest, Round Island, is the most celebrated of any found in Adirondack waters. Hammond says of it, “I wish I owned that island: it would be pleasant to be possessor of so much beauty.” 182 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Blue Mountain Lake is twelve miles South. Utowana and Eagle lying west are connected by inlet with Raquette; and farther west, Fulton Lakes are chained together by a series of ponds. Going north, and all the time following by stream, will be found North Branch, Big Moose, Beech, and innumerable smaller lakes and ponds, each partaking of the general lack of civilization, but richly rewarding the hardy adventurer. • It has been generally conceded by painstaking tourists, that, in no territory this side of the Yellowstone, can be realized so completely the spirit and recompense of exploit as among the Adirondacks. It will be a fact rather to deplore than welcome, if, in the great march of civiliza- tion, this land, so after God’s own making, will be brought under a human plan of architecture and landscape finish. Let it be left to its Maker. - NEW YORK TO LONG BRANCEI. The new short and quick route opened by the Central Railroad Com- pany of New Jersey, June 15, 1874, to Long Branch, is a matter of importance to the citizens of New York, with whom time is a great desideratum. Passengers start from the foot of Liberty Street, go vić Elizabeth, Woodbridge, Perth Amboy (where the line crosses the Rarilali River by a bridge a mile long to South Amboy), thence through Red Bank, Oceanport, &c., to Long Branch, opening this fashionable water- ing-place, by an easy, expeditious route, to the panting thousands of the great metropolis. About ten trains are run each way daily, - a cheap and easy release from the narrow streets of the city, and equally nar- row pursuits of gain, to the soul-saving worship of the great and good God through the never-quiet, never-ceasing roar of the mighty Ocean. HARVEY's LAKE, NORTH MOUNTAIN, AND HIGHLAND LAKE. Returning again on the line of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, through the Lehigh Valley, to Wilkes Barre, we find several resorts in the vicinity of considerable local interest. Harvey's Lake is twelve miles north-west of Wilkes Barre. It is a small, deep pool of marvellously clear, cool water. It is approached by a romantic road over the mountains from Wilkes Barre, and is a popular resort for the citizens of that place on account of its fishing and boating facilities. It is a thousand feet above the Susquehanna, and about two hundred feet deep, and nearly circular in shape, forming a clear and beautiful mirror for the overhanging Alleghany Mountains. North Mountain is another resort in the neighborhood of Wilkes Barre, more distant than Harvey’s Lake, yet rapidly increasing in pop- ularity, as will be seen by the following description. i 184 PopULAR RESORTs, AND How To REACH THEM. THE NORTH MOUNTAIN HOUSE. ONE of the most important problems to determine in household mat- ters is, “Where shall we spend the hot months of summer ?” A change is required: we must go somewhere. The father has become overtaxed by the cares of business; the mother is wearied by household duties; the children need a respite; the health of all demands this change. “But where can we go?” are the oft-repeated words. Why, there are places enough, – by the sea, at the springs, or in the mountains. The newspapers teem with notices of them ; and books resound with their praises. At Cape May, Atlantic City, Long Branch, or Newport; at Bedford Springs, Saratoga, Watkins Glen, or Niagara ; at the White Mountains, Mount Desert, Mauch Chunk, or Cresson; and at hundreds of other fashionable resorts, – houses in abundance are open, servants are ready, and landlords stand smiling at the door to receive you. Their halls dazzle with beauty; their parlors rustle with fashion; their corridors resound with mirth; and their drives are a whirl of excitement. Certainly, with such an array, one need not lack for a choice. But it is just this rustle of fashion, this whirl of excitement, that deters many of our best citizens from seeking that recreation which their health requires. It was to meet this emergency that the North Moun- tain House was erected, and a summer home provided where muslin and chintz, common sense and comfort, should supplant the prevailing customs of popular resorts ; in a word, where dress is not paramount to good taste and social enjoyments. Here are good accommodations for two hundred guests, all amply supplied with the substantial pro- visions of home, in a climate fresh with invigorating atmosphere, with springs of pure mountain water, where at reasonable rates a man may take his family for the season, and return invigorated and refreshed. If the reader would locate the North Mountain House, he is referred to that spot on the map of Pennsylvania, between the East and West Branches of the Susquehanna River, where the counties of Sullivan, Luzerne, and Wyoming corner, from which flow the head-waters of Loyal Sock, Muncy, Fishing, Huntington, Kitchen, Bowman, and Mehoopany Creeks. There it stands, on the banks of a charming lake, on the sum- mit of North Mountain, of the Alleghany range, 2,700 feet above tide- water (the highest habitable spot in Pennsylvania), in the centre of an unbroken primeval forest of 25,000 acres, not a house within a half- dozen miles, and “no one to molest or make afraid.” The North Mountain House, as a popular resort, is a success. No “rustle of fashion in the parlors;” though its “corridors resound with mirth,” and the halls and grounds are radiant with that beauty and alive with that enjoyment which come from good cheer. PopUIAR RESORTS, AND How To REACH THEM. 185 There is fishing for those who like it, and hunting in the woods; there is sailing on the lake, and roaming in the groves; there are billiards for rainy days, and croquet for fine; there are scenes for the artist's pencil, and abundant sports for all. WILD WOODS. North Mountain is eighteen miles from Shickshinny, on the East Branch of the Susquehanna, through which passes the “Lackawanna and 186 PopULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Bloomsburg’” Railroad, connecting north with the “Delaware, Lacka- wanna and Western,” and south with the “Philadelphia and Erie road.” The morning train from Wilkes Barre leaves you at Shickshinny about nine o’clock. A good team can be secured at the hotel; and the drive to North Mountain is delightful. The route is over an excellent upland road, and commands a succession of grand and varied landscape views, in admiration for which the miles grow short, and the distance is the least objectionable feature of the journey. Should necessity require, the trip can be made from the afternoon train ; but it is not as pleasant, as we have the evening sun in our eyes, and arrive after nightfall. The road winds among the hills, rising by easy grade to the base of the mountain proper, by which much of its altitude is overcome. The side is steep; but the carriage-way is shaded by forest trees, and is exceedingly picturesque. It is overhung in places by frowning rocks; and the rush of an impetuous stream can be heard in the valley below. The topography of North Mountain is so different from our general acceptation of the term “mountain,”—which usually rises to a summit crest, — that a brief description of its physical characteristics will be in place. Its sides are abrupt, presenting many interesting geological features. The summit surface is generally level, beneath which the outcropping strata of the carboniferous and sub-carboniferous formations are distinctly visible. This forms an extended plateau, broken by gentle undulations, extending thirty miles in length by ten in breadth. It is covered by a dense forest of primeval trees, – Oak, hickory, maple, birch, cherry, hemlock, pine, beech, and other varieties usually grown in much higher latitudes. Springs of pure Water, crystal streams alive with speckled trout, and quiet lakelets, abound. On the banks of the largest, Highland Lake, the North Mountain House has been erected. This delightful sheet of water, three miles in circum- ference, is fed by springs at its bottom. It abounds in fine varieties of fish, and furnishes withal a pleasing source of amusement. Its outlet forms the head-waters of Kitchen Creek, which, with seeming reluctance at first, leaves its parent head: then, as it moves along, gathering strength by fresh accessions, it soon assumes a bolder course, until the mountain's brink is reached, down which it plunges impetuously, forming numerous Wild cascades, then, with a fearful leap sheer down the deep abyss, is dashed into snowy spray among the rocks. Rich, luxuriant foliage depends from the overhanging cliffs, through which peers the sparkling sheen of a midsummer's day, clothing all in bright rainbow hues. “Ganoga Falls” are 127 feet high. They are of recent discovery, and must prove a great acquisition to the attractions of North Mountain. They are three miles from the house, by a picturesque woodland road. *