SIMPSON
THE
LIFE AND TRAVELS
OF
THOMAS SIMPSON
F
1060.8
561
UNIV
MICHUB
A 746,168

I
F
THE
ALPHEUS FELCH HISTORICAL LIBRARY
BEQUEATHED
TO THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
BY THE
HON. ALPHEUS FELCH.
1896.

GP. Green, pinit.
THOMAS SIMPSON,
The Arctic Discoverer.
FROM AN ORIGINAL PICTURE.
UNIV
OF
MICH
London, Published by Tichard Bentley, 1845.
J. Cock, sculp
THE
LIFE AND TRAVELS
OF
1-95-60
THOMAS SIMPSON,
THE ARCTIC DISCOVERER.
BY HIS BROTHER,
ALEXANDER SIMPSON.
MEMBRE TITULAIRE DE L'INSTITUT D'AFRIQUE.
"Though the sound of fame
May for a moment soothe, it cannot slake
The fever of vain longing, and the name
So honour'd, but assumes a stronger, bitterer claim.'
Childe Harold.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1845.
LONDON:
Printed by S. & J. BENTLEY, WILSON, and FLEY,
Bangor House, Shoe Lane.
apex gut
Cold Historical lib.
PREFACE.
THE brief sketch of my brother's life which
circumstances, explained in subsequent pages,
enabled me to publish along with his own
narrative of Arctic Discoveries, was generally
considered as but a meagre development of the
history of one, "in whom the world lost no
common man."
A naturally strong desire to present a more
extended view of his character, his virtues, and
his services, has led me to become I may more
properly say the compiler than the Author of
the following volume, which I submit to the
public with a trembling anxiety, lest the in-
trinsic worth of my subject and materials should
suffer depreciation from my inadequacy to the
duty which I have undertaken.
Ross-shire, April 1845.
A. S.
CONTENTS.
•
CHAPTER I.
Birth and Parentage.-Descent from Lord President
Forbes. The Laird of Gruinard and his Lady.-Early
Character, Habits, and Training.
CHAPTER II.
Studies for Four Winters at King's College, Aber-
deen.-Description of the Mode of Living there its
advantages.-Advice to other Students.-Carries off the
first Prize at Conclusion of his Studies.-Youthful Habits,
Tastes, and Opinions.
PAGE
1
11
CHAPTER III.
Addresses to his Fellow-Students.
“On
"On the Break-
ing up of his first Session at the University.".
the Advantages to be derived from the Study of Meta-
physics."
23
CHAPTER IV.
Connexion with the Governor of Hudson's Bay.-His
Career.-Refuses in 1825, and consents in 1828 to go
to Hudson's Bay.-Reasons for abandoning Study for
the Church, and for going to America, detailed in a
Letter to his eldest Brother. Occupations, Summer
1828.-Letter to the Author.-Sails for America.
44
vi
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
Arrival in America.-Travels during Summer 1829.
-Light Canoes.- Canadian Voyageurs: their Habits
and Songs.-A Winter in Canada.- L'Ame de Glace.
-Journey to the North-west.-A troublesome Charge.
-Extracts from Letters to the Author.-A pleasant
Residence.
CHAPTER VI.
A Winter Journey of seven hundred Miles. Life
in the Woods. Red River Colony. - Letter to the
Author on the Death of our eldest Brother.-Sketches
of Character.
CHAPTER VII.
Description of Red River Colony. - Letters to the
Author.
71
85
CHAPTER VIII.
Extracts from Letters to the Author.-Difficulties
with Half-breed Natives.-Intercourse with the Author.
-Captain Back's Arctic Expedition.
CHAPTER IX.
Progress of Exploration of the Northern Parts of
America. Summary of Journeys to the Arctic Coast of
America, viz., Hearne's to the Mouth of the Coppermine
River. Mackenzie's Descent to the Arctic Ocean..
Franklin's First Expedition.-Franklin's Second Expedi-
tion.-Ross's Expedition to Prince Regent's Inlet -
Back's Expedition in Search of Ross.-Back's intended
Survey from Wager River-King's contemplated Expe-
dition.—What had been done, and what remained to be
done.
•
95
109
PAGE
57
{
CONTENTS.
vii
CHAPTER X.
Organization of an Expedition for Arctic Discovery
by the Hudson's Bay Company.-Their Reasons for
this Step.-My Brother called upon to plan the Expedi-
tion.-Plans for Arctic Discovery which he drew up.
"Instructions" founded thereon.-Teaching in Astro-
nomy. Deficiency of Instruments, and Comments
thereon.
PAGE
176
CHAPTER XI.
A Winter Journey of One Thousand Two Hundred
and Seventy-seven Miles from Red River to Athabasca.
-Northern Squatters.-A Frontier Fortalice.-Pemican.
-An Octogenarian.-The Secret of Travelling in the
Far North.
194
CHAPTER XII.
Reasons for the Author's Preference of his Brother's
Correspondence to his Narrative.-Preliminary Arrange-
ments of the Expedition.-Feelings on entering on Arctic
Discovery.
215
CHAPTER XIII.
Expedition from Mackenzie's River to Point Barrow.
-Summer 1837.-Letters to the Directors of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, Governor Simpson, and the Author.
-Opinions of the Press in regard to the Expedition's
first Operations.
229
CHAPTER XIV.
Transactions, Autumn 1837 to Spring 1838, detailed
in Letters.-Climate of Fort Confidence.-Housekeeping
there.
263
viii
CONTENTS.
#
CHAPTER XV.
Expedition of 1838 to the Eastward of the Coppermine
River. Its Comparative Failure.
My Brother's
Opinions thereon, detailed in his Letters.-Opinions of
the English Press, and the Public.
CHAPTER XVI.
Winter 1838-39.-Preparations for a renewed Arctic
Voyage. Instructions to the Reserve.-Last Will.-
Completely Successful Expedition of Summer 1839.
—Return to Red River Colony.
CHAPTER XVII.
Schemes for a renewed Expedition.-Their Reception
by Governor Simpson; by the Directors of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Letters written to the Author from Red River Colony.
-Departs for England, viâ the Prairies." Last scene of
all."-Depositions of the Survivors, and Observations
thereon.-Appearance.-Character.
CHAPTER XIX.
The Rewards of Service. The Author's Correspon-
dence with Sir Robert Peel, Bart.-Sir John Barrow,
Bart.-The Hudson's Bay Company.-Sir George Simp-
PAGE
287
307
331
345
son.
374
Postscript on Arctic Discovery.
397
The Indians of Northern America.-An Inquiry into
their Character.-Their Condition.
403

70
IcyCape of Cook 1778
PtBarrow or
CNorth
Elson B
Dease Inlet
Boat Extreme
E.Smith B.
R. Garry C-Halkett
Pelly Ms Harrison B.
Colvile R
At Berens
P Beechey
Gwydr B. Return Reef
E
Pt Anxiety
180
Camden B.
P! Manning
Romanzoff M
S
British
Chain
Beaufort B.
Demarcation Pt
Backland
Chain
M/Sedgwick
M.Fillon
Richardson
q
Chain
Herschel I.
Colville
Pt Seperation.
Halkett. 1.
IX
Whale disc & lan
Pelly!
Richards [.
Harrison
rison
Esquimau
i
65
GU
Map of
the Country North of
ATHABASCA LAKE,
North America,
Traversed by the different Arctic Expeditions.
52
100
English Miles
200
MS: Elias
Admiralty or
Behrings Ray
Sitka I.
K.Geo Archip: or
Sitka
1
New Archangel
Norfolk
or Siasa!
Baranovil.
Chatha
Frances
Steheer B
130
Ft Good Hope
1
130
720
Part
Op
700
тро
NORTH GEORGIAN| ISLANDS
Discovered by Parry 1819 - 20 |
Litdous
C. Dundas
last Point seen by Parry 1820-
he
Byrim Marum
Salline
island
Melville
· Var. 128. 25 N. 1829
Hecla Griper B.
Polar
Banks Land
Sea
NORTH
DEVON
Bathurst I.
Maxwell B.
Cornwallig
Wellington Chall
08
Lowther I.
Cape Wather
شش
Leopold
Barrows Str.
N. SOMERSET
Purp Lost
Fr. Regent let
Port Bowen
C. Kater
Lancasters Sª d'Borfín 1615
- Admiralty Hilt
Ponds
Bar
(
Iglo alik I./
upon by M. Kenzie 12 July 1789
C. Dalhousie
Liverpool R
C.Bathurst
C. Parry
Franklin B.
Darnley B
Melville
Chain
a
u
m
X
Ft Franklin
Mackenzie R.
#
Sir G. Clerk's I
Wollastonland
Dolphin & Union St
C.HopeS
C.Krusenstern
Bucks Inler
Richardson R.
Bloody Fall
P Confidence
Great
Bear L
D. of Yorks Arch
Kendall R. &Flatt's Str
CopperMineR
Fo Enterprize 3
Knife R.
کو
C. Barrow
Victoria
Arctic S
Hoods R.
Well B.
C. Franklin
Land
C. Alexander
Kent Pen
"Franklin's for thrust
Malvill Pt
С. Столет
Barry's I.
Bathurst's
Inlet
BOOTHIA FELIX
C.Adelaide & Magnetic life of WT [V
C.Felir
Ross farthest
C. Jane Franklin
Melbourne I.
Str. of Boothia
White Bear Pr
Ogden B.
pt Burr
M.Loughton
L. Garry
L. Pelly
Contway to.or
Rum I.
L
Bucks R.
FM 0311
Aytmer
Clinton Colden L.
يرك
Cho Gt Fish
Ox Bucks R.1834
Thleweecho
C Herschel
Adelaide
Drow, an
Pt Richardson
Pogle
- Montreal I.
Boothia
COCKBURN 1.
Victorin I here Cart Ross Left his ship 29. May 1837
Sheriff winter 1830 31
wix it wont. 1829.30
Fury & Hecla Str.
R Easter & Palley
t Britania
C.Beaufort
Retoria Headland,
Sir G. Cockburnes B.
Chesterfield Inlet
Artillery...
Fort Reliance
Doobaunt L.
Yath Kyed L.
Gulf
MELVILLE
PENINSULA
Repulse Bay
Wager Riv
Sir T.Roe's Welcome
Ft Norms
300
T
Dease's R
N. West Branch,
Palls 40!
Ft Drew
F&Halket
R. au Lairds of Mountain R.
Ft Simpson
"pt providing
Great
Slave
L.
Resolution
Ft Laird
120
Hay R.
Peace R
Slave R.
Pt Chipewvan
a
London. Richard Bentley. 1845.
North Lined L.
100
매
​Fox's
Channel
Frozen Str
65
SOUTHAMPTON I?
HUDSON'S
BAY
C. Churchill
Seal, R.
Churchill
THE
LIFE AND TRAVELS
THOMAS
OF
SIMPSON.
CHAPTER I.
Birth and Parentage.- Descent from Lord President Forbes.
-The Laird of Gruinard and his Lady.-Early Character,
Habits, and Training.
ALEXANDER SIMPSON-the father of him whose
Life and Travels it will be to me "a labour of
love" to narrate in the following pages-was the
second son of a tenant farmer in Aberdeenshire;
and was born at New Craig, in that county,
in the year 1751. Having acquired a fair share
of the education which the parochial schools of
Scotland so cheaply afford, he entered, in the
year 1768, on the usual course of study for pro-
bationers of the Kirk of Scotland, at King's
College, Aberdeen-the same venerable and use-
B
2
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ful institution at which his son prosecuted his
studies nearly sixty years afterwards.
Having passed the allotted term of four years
in those studies, he was obliged to provide for
his support by the labours of tuition: and these
became his permanent occupation; for, although
he meditated, long after he commenced them,
an entrance into the ministry, he never accom-
plished his purpose; and finally settled down as
master of the parochial school of the little burgh
of Dingwall, in Ross-shire.
In 1784 he married the daughter of a respect-
able farmer in Inverness-shire, where he had for
some time resided. By her he had several
children; none of whom survived through child-
hood, except two sons; John, who died in 1813,
a lieutenant in the 78th regiment, and Æmilius,
a lieutenant in the royal navy,-to whom I shall
hereafter advert,-who died in 1831.
His first wife dying in 1792, he remained a
widower for upwards of fifteen years; during
fourteen of which, he often afterwards avowed,
that he daily prayed to God to give him Mary
Simpson (our mother) for his wife. At length his
prayer was granted; his suit successful.
She still lives; and has attained the age of
seventy-six, with unimpaired faculties. A sound
constitution, and good spirits, but, above all,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
3
a profound reliance on the unerring wisdom
of the decrees of Providence, have carried her
through an affliction, the extent and severity of
which can only be known to one "who has been
in bitterness for her first-born."
Her father was the Reverend Thomas Simpson,
for many years clergyman of the parish of Avoch,
in Ross-shire. The stipend of Avoch was then
a poor one; the manse ruinous; and the means
of local education for his children very defective.
He had opportunities of bettering his position by
a translation to another parish; but he declined
leaving his old and attached flock. "They had
accepted him (he said) as their pastor: he had
promised to be their spiritual shepherd; and
no worldly motives would induce him to break
this sacred tie." With-as we may judge from
this sacrifice-much of the singlemindedness of
the worthy "Vicar of Wakefield," he did not.
accord with his views of the duty of monogamy
for the clergy.
His second wife (our grandmother) was a des-
cendant of Duncan Forbes, the celebrated Lord
President of the Court of Session, — in this
wise:
The astute lawyer and sagacious statesman,-
to whom Protestantism and the House of Bruns-
wick owed so much,—was, “in his days of youth-
B 2
4
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ful prime," to the full as reckless and dissipated
as young lawyers were [are?] prone to be.
There was
"A maid, whose folly did confide
In him who made her not his bride."
A daughter was the result of this illicit con-
nexion. The mother was of good family: the
affair was kept secret, and she afterwards married
a North Country Laird. The daughter grew up a
very beautiful woman; and her father bestowed
on her every advantage of education, training and
introduction into society, that his wealth and
high position could command. Before she had
completed her eighteenth year, she singled out,
from among her numerous suitors, the Laird of
Gruinard, a scion of the noble house of Seaforth.
The laird was,
by 'r lady, inclining to three-
score," a widower, and the father of twenty
children by his first wife; but he was still a
hale, handsome, gay and gallant highlander, and
Miss Forbes overlooked or forgot the disparity
of years. She accompanied him to his estate,
in the wildest and most remote district of Ross-
shire; was the happy mother of twelve children,*
66
* Our grandmother was one of these. Of the thirty-two
children who blessed the household of the Laird of Gruinard,
twenty-nine or thirty grew up to maturity. I was present, in
1822, at the interment of the last of them, Mrs. Mackenzie
THOMAS SIMPSON.
er
and accommodated herself admirably to the posi-
tion in which she was placed. Forgetting the
gaieties of Edinburgh, she devoted herself heart
and soul to the duties of her new and embarras-
sing situation; was a kind and dutiful step-
mother to her husband's first numerous family;
acquired in a short time the language, and
became acquainted with the character, habits, and
feelings of his tenantry, and was one of the first
to expound to them the Scriptures in their native
language: Gaelic Bibles were unknown in these
days in the wilds of Lochbroom. I love to
dwell on the character of the "Lady of Gruinard;"
I see in it many points of resemblance, in its
energy, its enthusiasm, and self-devotion, to that
of him whose labours I am to chronicle.
The marriage of our parents took place in
1807. On the 2nd July 1808, Thomas, the
subject of this Memoir, was born; followed,
nearly three years after by the writer, the
youngest and now the only survivor of his father's
family.
of Hilton, who died at the good ripe age of ninety-six. The
descendants of this patriarchal family are, it will easily be
believed, very numerous; and they were long tacitly permitted
a singular immunity, now happily falling into desuetude and
oblivion. If any of them committed a breach of the seventh
commandment, people shrugged their shoulders and said, “'Tis
no wonder-he's one of the Gruinards."
6
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Our father's position, as schoolmaster of the
little Burgh, did not prevent his taking an active
share in its local government; for upwards of
thirty years he was a member of its corporation,
and was frequently its principal resident magis-
trate (Bailie). The prevailing politics of the
county and burgh were strongly tory; yet he
was ever a staunch whig of the old school, i. e.,
he considered that the powers of government
(national and local) should be exercised for the
benefit of the many, but vested in the hands
of the few.
His income, from his school and other employ-
ments, was very limited; yet he was ever kind
and hospitable, particularly to young men who
were struggling, as he himself had struggled,
not only for the means of support, but also of
preparation for the office of the ministry; an office
which is filled in Scotland, perhaps, oftener than
in any other country in the world, by persons
born among the class of handicraftsmen and
peasants. He was, indeed, a very Nathaniel, a
man without guile.
"He had a tear for pity, and a hand
Open as day for melting charity."
A true and sincere Christian, he was utterly
devoid of sourness and illiberality; he blamed
THOMAS SIMPSON.
7
no man for his creed; but inculcated in the
minds of his children the belief, that the all-
seeing God is also just and beneficent, and that
he will judge his creatures solely by the use which
they have made of the faculties, talents, and
opportunities, given to them.
With his children his intercourse was most
endearing. Harshness or severity he never
showed; but instilled his precepts by mild ad-
monitions and by entertaining illustrations. I
yet remember many incidents connected with
this delightful and most profitable intercouse.
On my brother's mind, from his more advanced
years, it must have made a deeper impression,
and, doubtless, had much influence in the forma-
tion of his character.
Our father died in 1821. His income was too
small to have allowed his laying up any store;
and the only provision for his family was an
annuity to our mother of twenty-five pounds, in
that excellent institution "The Schoolmasters'
Widows' Fund," which he secured by annual life
payments. Our brother Æmilius generously
joined his lieutenant's half-pay to his step-
mother's slender provision; and cheerfully took a
share of the little cottage which she occupied.
He was, as this noble action shows, a man of
warm affections; but the exclusion, caused by
}
8
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
the want of interest, from active employment in
the service (the naval) which he idolized, and
other disappointments, had soured his temper;
he was naturally irascible, and a strong admirer
of what is known by men-of-wars-men as "tight
discipline;" the exercise of which had long a de-
pressing effect on my brother's mind.
The child is not always father to the man.
The enthusiastic and energetic traveller, whose
physical conformation set fatigue and privation
at defiance, whose courage and enthusiasm en-
abled him to bring to a successful completion
the arduous expedition which he himself had
planned a success which made him only de-
sirous of entering on renewed labours-was, in
childhood and early youth, weak and sickly in
physical, and timid in mental constitution.
He had early shown a strong tendency to
consumption, to guard against which required,
for several years, much care and assiduous at-
tention to his clothing and diet: and, instead
of his character being marked by the youthful
recklessness which might naturally be supposed
to have been the foreshadowing of his subse-
quent well-regulated daring, he was singular
for a want of interest in the games common
among boys-for an unwillingness to join in
their rougher sports, and for a hesitation in enter-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
9
ing upon any exercise or amusement that could
in the least expose him to personal danger. For
instance, although most of his school-fellows were
bold and expert swimmers, he had not sufficient
self-confidence, while a boy, to acquire any pro-
ficiency in that useful art; and, even in man-
hood, when fearlessly exposing himself to the
hazards of the impetuous rapids of the Copper-
mine, and the imminent dangers of Arctic navi-
gation, he had acquired but little skill in it.
4
During childhood and boyhood he was distin-
guished by a quiet docile temper, habits of strict
order and method, and by a steady constant at-
tention to his studies, rather than by any re-
markable quickness in mastering them. The
better part of these characteristics remained with
him during his too short career; but his intellect
was rapidly strengthened and sharpened by emu-
lation and contact with other minds; while hist
spirit cast off the timidity which weighed it down,
as his body cast off its youthful infirmities.
Even from childhood there was a strong feel-
ing of enthusiasm, almost amounting to romance,
governing him. His mind was not more bent
in youth on the acquisition of university honours,
than it was in childhood on the proper manage-
ment of the little square of flower garden, which
his father considerately apportioned as his own,
10
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"whereof he might make a kirk or a mill." *
He was not more earnest, in his early manhood,
in his search after the north-west passage, than
he was in boyhood in his endeavours to win the
smiles of his dancing-school partner. Byron's
passion, while yet in "shorts," for his Aberdeen
playmate, has been thought to be, in some degree,
a creation of his imagination. I can still recollect
the pains, the tribulations, and the anxieties
caused to my brother, by his love for a little
missie not yet in her teens.
An aspiration after the noble and the gene-
rous also arose early in his mind, and it grew
with his growth and strengthened with his
strength. A favourite and often repeated quota-
tion from Horace was "Odi profanum vulgus et
arceo." In repeating this to me, who then, as
now, "knew small Latin and no Greek," he al-
ways explained that the poet's meaning and his
own implied only a contempt for the low pur-
suits, sordid desires, and grovelling habits of
the vulgar herd, not a hatred of his fellow-men
of any class or degree.
* The Scottish phrase for the Duke of Newcastle's apho-
rism-"I can do what I like with my own."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
11
CHAPTER II.
Studies for Four Winters at King's College, Aberdeen.
Description of the Mode of Living there: its advantages.-
Advice to other Students.-Carries off the first Prize at
conclusion of his Studies.-Youthful Habits, Tastes, and
Opinions.
WITH such youthful characteristics as those
which I have described (characteristics coinciding
in a remarkable degree with those which be-
longed to the boyhood of Bruce, the Abyssinian
traveller), it will appear natural that my brother
should have excited much interest, and raised
sanguine expectations of his future success, in
every one connected or acquainted with him.
The sphere chosen as that for which he should
be educated and trained was the Kirk of Scot-
land. We shall in the sequel find his own feelings
and opinions in regard to this choice candidly
explained.
In pursuance of this scheme of education, he
was sent in the autumn of 1824 to King's Col-
lege, Aberdeen.
12
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Before describing his progress at this northern
institution, it will be interesting, as affording an
insight into the system of education and course
of life of students there, to peruse a Memorandum
on the subject, which he himself drew up in
1829, for the information of a friend who was
anxious to select a fit place for the education of
younger brothers.
6
"Of the various Scotch universities, that which
I consider the most eligible for completing a
young man's education is the King's College
of Aberdeen. This opinion is not the effect of
prejudice, but is founded upon various considera-
tions, the most important of which are the fol-
lowing:-
"1st. The strict surveillance which the Pro-
fessors have over both the public and private
conduct of the young men under their charge.
In point of numbers, indeed, this university
ranks second only to that of Edinburgh; but
the college being situated in what is called the
'Old Town,' a small place at the distance of
a mile from the city, the lodgings of the students
are necessarily condensed within a very small
compass, affording the Professors an opportunity
of knowing the young men individually, and of
observing their behaviour and character. No
impropriety or irregularity can, therefore, escape
THOMAS SIMPSON.
13
observation; whereas, the other universities (with
the exception of St. Andrew's, which is a great
resort for young men of rank and fortune) being
situated amid large and populous cities, the
young men are scattered in every direction, un-
known to their teachers save by name, under little
controul, and exposed to many temptations.
"2nd. The admirable method now pursued at
this university, where, besides a variety of ex-
aminations which ensure application and afford
ample room for the display of merit, there are
a great number of prizes given annually in every
class; and at a public competition which takes
place a week before the meeting of college, there
are a number of bursaries from twenty pounds
per annum, (i. e. for the four years,) downwards,
awarded to the best writers of the Latin lan-
guage; and I have known many young men
support themselves in this way without costing
their friends a shilling.
"3rd. The economy in the mode of living at
this university. Aberdeen, from local causes, is
generally allowed to be one of the cheapest
places in Scotland. The usual, and unquestion-
ably the best, way for going to work is this:-
Two young men club together to take, say a
small sitting-room and bed closet, or more fre-
quently only a good bedroom, at a certain set
14
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
rent; the landlady procures all kinds of stores,
provisions, &c., for which they reimburse her
weekly; while for cooking, washing, &c., there
are regular charges; so that, after the first week,
the whole is plain sailing. By this means the
whole average expense for the winter does not
exceed from twenty to twenty-five pounds; and
I should consider thirty pounds per session as a
very handsome allowance.
66
See the following abstract, the charges in
which are stated at considerably beyond the
average.
l. s. d.
"Lodgings per Session, divided between two, 4
guineas
}
2 2 0
Cooking, brushing shoes, and washing for 21
weeks, at 2s. per week
}
2 2 0
770
Expense of board per week each, 7s..
College fees at an average
Books and stationery
A suit of Clothes
Pocket money
5 5 0
2 2 0
7 0 0
4
2 0
£30 0 0*
* While recommending this limit, he
"Did not, as some ungracious pastors do,
Show us the steep and thorny way to heaven,
Whilst, like a puff'd and reckless libertine,
Himself the primrose path of dalliance treads,
And recks not his own read."
for I have before me a record of his own sessional expenses,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
15
"The course of study is as follows: :-
"First year.-1, Greek; 2, Latin.
"Second year.-1, Mathematics; 2, Natural
History and Chemistry; 3, Greek; 4, Latin.
"Third year.-1, Natural Philosophy and
higher Mathematics; 2, Greek; 3, Latin.
"Fourth year.-1, Moral Philosophy and
Logic; 2, Greek; 3, Latin.
"If these observations from one who speaks
from experience be sufficient to induce you to
send your brothers to this university, I have only
two advices to give them, viz., to keep clear of
bad company; and to make a point of perform-
ing every exercise themselves, without trusting,
in any shape, to the assistance of others."
Different, indeed, the life and habits of the
and I find them respectively to amount to 23l. 15s. 9d., 28l.
9s. 4d., 25l. 1s. 6d., 281. 2s. 3d. "'Tis sixty years since,"
explains many things; his father's expenses at the same uni-
versity, of which I have no less correct a record, never ex-
ceeded the sum of ten pound per annum.
The following is an abstract of my brother's expenses from
1st November, 1824, to 1st April, 1825.
Travelling expenses to and from Aberdeen
Board, lodging, coal, and candle
Clothing, including college gown
1.
S. d.
3 7 4
8 1 1
8 3 6
College fees, books and stationery
Washing, postages, and amusements
2 17 3
1 6 7
£23 15 9
16
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
self-denying Aberdeen student, into which this
paper gives no little insight, from those of the
gay under-graduates of the lordly universities of
Cambridge and Oxford, of whose studies a recent
grave Mentor,* describes the geological riding
lectures of Buckland and Sedgwick to be a
strictly regular portion; while he rates the con-
cert, the ball, the cricket-match, the boat-race,
the flower-show, the private luncheon party, and
the public dinner, as agreeable interruptions to
the routine of academic studies; nay, from whom
the "pink" hunting-coat peeping out from under
the college-gown, horn-blowing, and tandem-driv-
ing draw forth no very stern rebuke!
Many a parent's aching heart would be com-
forted many a family's ruin averted! many a
young man, whose energies have been prostrated,
and joys embittered by the incubus of debts
incurred while keeping up to the usual mark of
college life, would have ran a course of prosperous
and happy exertion, (—) were the ordinary
expenses at Oxford and Cambridge but tenfold
the amount which my brother points out as the
maximum necessary at the northern alma mater, to
which he owed his own education and training.
* See an elaborate article in The Quarterly Review for
December, 1843, which attracted much attention, and excited
much discussion.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
17
My brother, on joining the university, was a
competitor for the bursaries, to which he alludes
in the foregoing paper: he obtained one, though
of the lowest class; yet even this was of advan-
tage to him, as it diminished the amount of his
college fees-bursars having a right to certain
deductions from the usual scale.
He was, from his first entrance, extremely
attentive to all his studies: and the exertion
necessary to enable him to keep pace with his
fellow-students in classical acquirements, for
which he had no strong natural bent, had a
most beneficial effect in calling forth his latent
energies of mind. This, again, reacted on his
bodily frame. He
He returned from his winter
studies quite a new being; his mind aroused
to a consciousness of its strength, his spirits exu-
berant, and his bodily frame already showing
indications of the muscular symmetry which
marked his manhood. A summer ramble among
the wild hills of Lochbroom clenched this auspici-
ous change.
His next session at the university tended still
more to expand his character. The main branch
of this winter's study was mathematics, for which
his mind had a particular bias: and in it he
out-stripped all his fellow-students. His earnest
application to this study may be judged from a
C
་
18
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
fact communicated to me by his chum, that each
morning, ere he retired to rest, his room was
thronged by his class-fellows, who, after a night
of slumber, came to him to beg or borrow his
solution of the Professor's puzzling problems,
which (as we have seen he recommended to
others) he, himself, never omitted working out.
He also took a prominent part in the debat-
ing society, established by the students among
themselves, and was the recognized leader of the
highland party of his class-between which, and
the lowland section, the "Saxons," there existed
no little jealousy. His own descent was, un-
doubtedly, almost exclusively from those Saxons;
and, although born within sight of Ben Nevis, the
hugest of Scottish mountains, he spoke but little,
and that very imperfect, Gaelic; yet he had a
keen feeling for the scenery of his native district;
and, in his addresses before the society, he fre-
quently made triumphant comparisons between
the proud feelings instilled into the mind of a
highlander by a constant contemplation of the
grand and romantic scenery of the mountains,
and the plodding stolidity of the inhabitants of
the lowlands.
Several of these addresses, carefully written
out, now lie before me. That I should consider
them marked by high merit may be the result of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
19
natural partiality. In the next chapter, I give
entire and unaltered, one delivered to his fellow-
students on the breaking up of his first session
at the university, and another "On the advantages
to be derived from the study of Metaphysics,"
which was delivered, in November 1827, on the
opening of the session, during which that science
was the particular branch of study. The first
is a juvenile performance, but marked by strong
characteristic traits; in the last will be found
indications of the concision and simplicity of
style, joined to earnest truthfulness, which so
strongly mark his letters and narratives, quoted
in the following pages.
During the sessions of 1826-27 and 1827-28,
he pursued his studies with even increased
ardour. In physical sciences he was the facile
princeps of his fellow-students; but in classical
acquirements he had one or two equals, if not
superiors; and on their comparative progress in
Metaphysical studies (those belonging to the
last session) depended the decision of the
learned Professors as to the fit recipient of the
"Huttonian" prize, the highest reward of literary
merit given in the university, being that bestowed
on him who has made the greatest proficiency in
all the branches of study forming its Curriculum.
This distinction was, at the conclusion of his
C 2
20
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Collegiate course, conferred upon him by an una-
nimous vote of the Senatus Academicus.* At the
same time, he received his degree of "Master of
Arts."
The session at Aberdeen commences with
November, and ends with April. After the
breaking up of the classes, it was my brother's
annual custom to take a ramble, for five or six
weeks, through Aberdeen and Banff Shires, where
he had many friends and relatives. To this suc-
ceeded two or three months of hard study: and,
in the autumn, we visited together an uncle re-
siding in Lochbroom, where we spent a happy
month in the sports and exercises of that wild
and remote highland district. Then, again, came
a short interval of study: and it was time for
*«King's College, 24th Jan., 1829.
"We, the undersigned, hereby certify that Mr. Thomas Simp-
son having gained a bursary at the public competition in ses-
sion 1824-25, entered the Greek class in said year, and gave
regular attendance at this University during that and three
subsequent sessions; that during the whole of his course he
was distinguished for good conduct, diligence, and ability; and
that at the close of session 1827-28 he was unanimously
declared the successful candidate for the Huttonian Prize,
the highest reward of literary merit given in this University.
"HUGH MACPHERSON, Sub-Prefect.
"WILLIAM PAUL, Prof. of Nat. Phil.
"J. TULLOCH, Prof. of Math.
"HERCULES SCOTT, Phil. Mor, Prof.”
THOMAS SIMPSON.
21
him to join his classes. This he did with health
and spirits, which enabled him to pass through
the winter's hard study, with no more serious
result, than that his countenance became some-
what
"Sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought."
My brother's appearance was prepossessing;
his manners engaging; he was particular to a
nicety in his dress-which was always chosen
with much taste, and most sedulously taken care
of. His spirits were buoyant, and his zest for
society keen; no wonder, then, that he was
every where a favourite. Even when most
closely attentive to his studies, he mixed a good
deal, not only in the limited society of the vene-
rable Old Town-consisting principally of the
families of the professors-but also in that of the
bustling New Town of Aberdeen.
He had always a strong penchant for ladies'
society; was a special favourite among them;
and returned this favour by the highest- most
romantic idealization of women. He often
told me that he considered a beautiful woman
(and he was apt to invest many plain ones
with an attribute which did not belong to them)
as too ethereal a being to allow of a sensual
thought being raised by the contemplation of
her: that it pained him to see such an one
22
L
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
condescending to the sublunary enjoyments of eat-
ing and drinking, still worse of gossiping. The
woman of his youthful imaginings would, indeed,
have been
"too wise and good
For human nature's daily food—”
and, although an impetuous temperament may,
in after life, have made him sometimes to
66
gang a kenning wrong," in a country where
female virtue is almost unknown, he ever nou-
rished and retained in his "heart of hearts," the
highest opinion of female excellence.
A belief in the sublime doctrines of Christian-
ity, which was early and carefully instilled into
his mind by his revered father, remained ever
firm and unshaken: and his humble confidence
in the guidance and protection of Providence
breathes forth in every letter which he wrote,
while engaged in his arduous and perilous jour-
neyings.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
23
CHAPTER III.
Addresses to his Fellow-Students.
“On_the_breaking up of
his first Session at the University."-"On the Advantages
to be derived from the Study of Metaphysics."
ON THE BREAKING UP OF HIS FIRST SESSION AT
THE UNIVERSITY, MARCH, 1825.
"THE day of our parting draws on apace; a
parting which, to some of us, may perhaps be
the last. This, my dear friends, is a melancholy
thought; and at such a time as this it is natural
for us to indulge in grief.
"Youth is the season when the disposition is
frank and open: when the mind is most apt to
receive impressions of friendship, and when a
parting of this kind will be most deeply felt. It
is in youth that friendships are contracted, which
time or distance cannot dissolve; and as a great
part of our happiness depends on the connexions
which we form with others, it is of high im-
portance that we acquire betimes the temper and
the manners which will render such connexions
endearing.
24
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
6
"Let us remember that our characters are just
forming; that our fate is, in a manner, put into
our own hands. Our affections are yet vigorous
and true; evil habits and prejudices have not
yet established over them a baneful sway; nor
has the world had time to contract and debase
the finer emotions of the soul. Whatever im-
pulse, therefore, we now give to our desires and
passions, the direction is likely to continue, and
to form the channel in which our life is to run.
Virtuous youth,' says an eloquent writer, 'gra-
dually brings forward accomplished and flourish-
ing manhood; and such manhood passes of itself,
without uneasiness, into respectable and tranquil
old age. But when Nature is turned out of its
regular course, disorder takes place in the moral,
just as in the vegetable world. If the spring put
forth no blossoms, in the summer there will be
no beauty, and in autumn no fruit; so if youth be
trifled away without improvement, manhood will
be contemptible, and old age miserable.' Now,
therefore, that we are just setting out on the
stage of life-before we have committed any fatal
or irretrievable errors-what can be of more im-
portance to us than to regulate our plan of con-
duct with the most serious attention? Let not
the season of youth be with us, barren of the
improvement so essential to our happiness and
THOMAS SIMPSON.
25
respectability in life! If at this critical season,
when our character is about to receive its stamp,
we deliver ourselves up to idleness and sloth, or
devote ourselves wholly to the pursuit of pleasure
and amusement, what can we expect to follow
from such beginnings?
"All of us would, doubtless, wish to rise to
eminence in the different pursuits and occupa-
tions to which our inclinations tend, which our
circumstances have suggested, or which
which our
friends have proposed to us; but the least con-
sideration must convince us that, in order to
pursue any plan of life, whatever, with advantage,
some previous discipline and preparation are in-
dispensably necessary. And shall we attain suc-
cess without that preparation, and escape dangers
without that caution, which is required of others?
Shall virtue and happiness grow up to us of their
own accord, and solicit our acceptance, when to
the rest of mankind they are the fruits of long
cultivation, and the acquisitions of labour and
care? Let us not deceive ourselves with such
arrogant hopes !
"If we look around us in the world,' says
another celebrated writer, we will see that those
who are born with the same advantages are not all
equally prosperous in the course of life. While
some by wise and steady conduct attain distinc-
1
26
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
tion in the world, and pass their days with com-
fort and honour; others of the same rank, by
mean and vicious behaviour, forfeit the advan-
tages of their birth, involve themselves in much
misery, and end in being a disgrace to their
friends, and a burden on society.'
Bad as the
"We must, therefore, perceive that whatsoever
is to be our profession, virtue is the one thing
needful. This is the universal preparation for
every character and station in life.
world is, respect is always paid to virtue. With-
out it the brightest parts and the most shining
talents are of no avail; they are but as a tran-
sitory meteor, compared with the steady and re-
splendent light of the sun in the firmament.
Virtue is the true foundation of eminence in
every liberal art, and of reputation and honour
in every public and private station of life. It is
what ennobles the character, and inspires into it
generous sentiments, and a spirit undaunted by
all the opposition of a wicked world. It makes
the possessor of it superior to the changes of
fortune; and enables him to say of her,
"I can enjoy her when she's kind;
But when she dances in the wind,
And shakes her wings, and will not stay,
I puff the prostitute away.'
"We are all of us, however, setting out in the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
27
pursuit of that fortune which the poet valued
at so low a rate; and though virtue renders us
superior to her, yet the enjoyment of her is, by
no means, incompatible with virtue, but ought,
rather, to be considered as one of its rewards.
Unless, however, we invest ourselves with all
the accoutrements necessary for the chase, for-
tune, like the sly fox, will constantly elude our
grasp, and disappoint all our endeavours.
"What, you will ask, are the accoutrements
necessary? We must take virtue for our coat of
mail- a sound judgment for our helmet-un-
daunted resolution for our shield; our weapons
must be sagacity and perseverance; and we must
not forget to take with us the mantle of sound phi-
losophy, which can only be acquired by assiduous
cultivation of our minds in the season of youth.
Thus equipped, we may, with God's blessing, as-
sure ourselves of success.
"The joy we shall experience in again meeting
our relatives, and the pleasure we shall feel in
their society after being so long separated from
them-will, soon, make us forget the sorrow we
experience at parting with one another.
"Should any of this assemblage, before our next
meeting, embark on the busy stage of life, may
they be an honour to their friends, and a credit
to themselves (!) and may those whom a revolving
28
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
year brings again together to engage in the
pursuit of learning, meet each other with plea-
sure and delight!
"Farewell!"
I have placed before the reader the above
address, not so much for its intrinsic literary
merits, as for the purpose of giving a link in the
chain of my brother's singular union of character—
enthusiasm joined to caution; energy to sagacity.
It was at sixteen years of age, that he made
this address-so full of "gentle sage advices,"
to his fellow-students. What he inculcated upon
others, he did not himself neglect.
ON THE ADVANTAGES TO BE DERIVED FROM THE
STUDY OF METAPHYSICS, READ BEFORE THE STU-
DENTS OF KING'S COLLEGE, ABERDEEN, NOVEM-
BER 1827.
"THE human Mind is the noblest work of the
Almighty Creator, which reason discloses to our
view. It is that vital principle, that spark of
celestial fire which constitutes our existence, and
which will survive not only our mortal bodies,
but even the wreck of conflicting elements, and
the destruction of universal nature. In its state
of primitive purity, the mind was the image of
the perfections of its Author, and it still retains
sufficient traces of its divine origin to entitle it
THOMAS SIMPSON.
29
to our deepest and most profound meditation.
Accordingly, we find that in every enlightened
age, the study of the mind has been regarded
as the most important which can engage the
attention of man, as a rational or social being.
On consulting the records of history, we find,
in proportion to their cultivation or neglect
of this study, nations emerging out of the dark-
ness of ignorance and barbarism, or sinking again
into their primitive obscurity.
"Hence we are entitled to conclude, that, on
the knowledge and improvement of the mental
powers, our interests and happiness, no less than
our true dignity, essentially depend. The acqui-
sition of such knowledge is the great object of
moral science, to enumerate a few of the most
obvious advantages resulting from which shall
form the subject of the following Essay.
"In treating this subject, I shall not pre-
tend to follow any accurate scientific division,
such division being in general very incomplete ;
but shall confine myself to some of the most
important advantages of Moral Science, in the
order in which they most naturally occur.
"Moral Science, then, tends in the highest de-
gree to the improvement and perfection of our
mental powers. By means of these powers its
investigations are prosecuted, and these very
30
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
powers form the subject of inquiry. This re-
ciprocal advantage is peculiar to the study of
the mind, and is the result of its being an ori-
ginal and independent science.
"All the other arts and sciences have an inti-
mate and mutual connexion; the study of the
mind is the foundation of them all, and from
it they derive their elegance and their utility.
Viewed in this light, philosophical inquiries into
the mental faculties must afford peculiar interest
to every reflecting mind. On the conclusions
to which such researches lead, we dwell with
a higher degree of satisfaction, when we consider
that they result exclusively from the subject
itself, and owe their elucidation to no other
science. Small, indeed, must the curiosity of
that man be, who can content himself with
the mere mechanical use of those powers which
distinguish him above the lower animals, with-
out feeling any inclination to examine the laws
which regulate their operations; and thus, as
it were, to view the image of the Author of na-
ture in the fairest of his works.
"Before making any further observations on
this head, we may proceed to reply to one or
two objections brought forward against the study
of the mind. It has been asserted, that this is
a subject far removed beyond the limits of the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
31
human faculties, and that we can attain to no
certain knowledge respecting it. The absurd
hypotheses of the school-men, and the abstruse
and unintelligible doctrines of many modern
philosophers, (who have attempted to veil their
own ignorance under the specious cloak of an
obscure and technical phraseology,) seem indeed,
to justify this opinion; but we must remember
that the abuse of any science furnishes no solid
argument against its use. The phenomena of the
intellectual are no less open to our inspection than
those of the material world. They offer a sphere
of observation no less fair and extensive.
conclusions are no less certain, since in either sci-
ence they are founded on a full and cautious in-
duction. In both sciences we ascend from particu-
lar facts to general principles, called laws of
nature, &c.; there our investigations must cease.
The
"Our evidence, too, repecting the existence
and operations of the mind, is even more certain
than that with regard to matter. The former
is the result of consciousness, the latter of per-
ception. Sensation and perception are, in some
degree, common to man with the lower animals :
consciousness and reflection are nobler powers,
and assign him a more exalted station in the
scale of beings. If these powers, then, be con-
ferred upon man for such noble ends, shall he
32
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
not employ them? The mind is the only le-
gitimate sphere of their operation, the only sub-
ject, indeed, to which they can be directed.
Hence, it must be evident to every candid mind,
that it is the benevolent intention of nature
that man should derive a great part of his hap-
piness from the cultivation of his mental fa-
culties. The improvement of these powers,'
says an elegant writer, exalts and dignifies
our nature; the neglect keeps us on a level with
savages, and almost with the brute creation."
Thus we have endeavoured to show the in-
trinsic utility and dignity of the study of the
mind: we may now proceed to consider a few
of its most important applications.
"The mind, then, as we have already stated,
is not only worthy of inquiry on its own account,
it is still more so as the foundation of the sci-
ences and the fine arts. With the general sci-
ence of mind, indeed, all the pursuits of life,
whether speculative or practical, are intimately
connected. We repeat this because many have
imagined that this study has no relation to the
common affairs of life. How egregiously such men
are mistaken, we hope, shall soon be apparent.
It is by a knowledge of the mind, the
orator and the statesman rise to eminence, and
rule at will the passions or the interests of men.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
33
"This knowledge enables the moralist to con-
vince man that the path of virtue alone conducts
to happiness; the preacher to inculcate with re-
sistless energy the sublime doctrines of religion,
to console the afflicted mind, or strike terror
into the guilty breast. Hence, too, the poet
reaches the secret avenues of the heart, and
inspires us with a kindred flame, the painter
adapts the principles of his art to our perceptive
powers, and makes the dull canvas glow with
all the beauties of external nature.
"A knowledge of the mind is also of the
utmost service to the medical faculty. The suc-
cess of the physician depends not altogether on
his treatment of the body in the various dis-
orders to which it is subjected; it also depends
in no small degree on his giving to the imagina-
tion such a bent, as to render it subservient to
the purpose of recovery. With anatomy and
physiology, the science of mind has a close con-
nexion. They tend to illustrate each other in
several important points, particularly in respect
to our sensitive powers; and we may safely
venture to affirm, that, without their mutual co-
operation, we should for ever remain in ignorance
of many useful facts which are now perfectly
established.
"Law and jurisprudence, too, in order that the
D
34
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
system may be complete, and productive of sa-
lutary effects to society, must be founded on a
knowledge of those principles which form the
chief ingredients in the mental constitution.
66
Language is an instrument closely connected
with the philosophy of the mind. The more
the latter is cultivated, the higher the degree
of perfection to which the former attains-to
the grammarian, therefore, a knowledge of the
mind is of essential importance. It explains
many interesting facts connected with his pur-
suits, of which, without its aid, he must have
remained ignorant, and enables him to view with
a more scientific eye the gradual advance of in-
tellect through all the various stages of pro-
gressive refinement of language. Viewed in this
light, the structure of language is one of the
most important sources of information to the
student of mind, and may be regarded as a mir-
ror reflecting a true and accurate picture of
national character.
"Hence, too, the superior pleasure the moral
philosopher derives from the perusal of the an-
nals of History, where he sees pourtrayed the
events of ancient times, and traces through the
obscure and distorted medium of hypocrisy or am-
bition those secret yet powerful springs of action
which must for ever remain concealed from the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
35
less penetrating eye of the careless and super-
ficial observer. Such are a few of the most
important practical purposes to which moral sci-
ence may be applied.
"It has not only, however, been argued against
the study of the mind, that it is unconnected with,
but also that it unfits man for, the business of
common life. It is asserted that the moral
philosopher, by excessive attention to the opera-
tions of his own mind, becomes gradually alien-
ated from the external world, and suffers his
imagination to roam uncontrolled through the
wide but barren regions of speculation. That
such men exist we will not venture to deny;
but, surely, the excess to which any study is in
some few instances carried, is no solid argu-
ment for its rejection. Such examples rather
afford a melancholy proof of the fraility of hu-
man nature, and the errors into which even men
of the loftiest genius are sometimes apt to
fall.
Another objection brought forward against the
study of the mind, (and the last we shall men-
tion,) is, that we do not derive such pleasure
from the exercise of our perceptive powers, when
we learn to trace them back to their original
sources.
"This objection is equally false and unfounded,
D 2
36
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and could only originate with those who are
themselves ignorant of this sublime science.
An acquaintance with the laws of perception,
instead of lessening the delight which we ex-
perience in contemplating the gay and varied
scenes of nature, contributes in the highest de-
gree to heighten and refine it. It opens to our
admiring eyes new views of the power and wis-
dom of that Almighty Being in every part of
whose works the most consummate goodness
and perfection are displayed, whose hand main-
tains the planets in their orbits, and provides
for the wants and necessities, nay, even the
pleasures, of his rational and intelligent offspring.
"That there are difficulties connected with, and
sources of error peculiar to, the study of the
mind, we cannot deny. But ought we to de-
spair on that account? Should not such obsta-
cles rather inspire us with redoubled ardour to
remove or obviate them?
"The mental operations, at first view, appear so
numerous and complicated as to baffle all our
endeavours at classifying or arranging them;
but, upon a more accurate inspection, they are
found to result from a comparatively small
number of simple and original faculties. Is it
not probable, then, that habits of attention will,
in like manner, enable us with increasing facility
THOMAS SIMPSON.
37
to surmount all those barriers which might
impede our progress into the fair fields of science
and philosophy?
"In this respect the mind may be compared to
a chemist who, from a small number of simple
elements, forms that endless variety of com-
pounds which are applied to so many and such
opposite uses.
To the chemist it is of the last importance
to be intimately acquainted with the properties
of his various compositions, and to know exactly
the number and relative proportions of the simple
ingredients which compose them. Is not such
knowledge of equal importance to the mind?
and ought we not to use every method by which
it can be obtained?
"The difficulties may, indeed, be considerable ;
but let us remember that proportional to them is
the value of the acquisition;-let us view even
these formidable guardians of the portals of philo-
sophy without dismay, and press boldly forward
into the inmost recesses of the temple of science.
"We shall now take a short view of the
advantages more immediately resulting from
moral science, as applied to the improvement
of the intellectual and moral powers, and the
formation of philosophical systems of logic and
morality.
38
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
66
Logic teaches us the order to be observed
in the investigation of truth, and the communica-
tion of it to others. In a true and well-digested
system of logic consists the perfection of our
intellectual powers, and on a knowledge of the
mind alone can such a system be justly founded.
"Hence the judgment is strengthened; we
acquire habits of independent thinking, and of
close and convincing argumentation; the atten-
tion is fixed and made subservient to the purposes
of science and philosophy; in a word the under-
standing is confirmed in the habitual exercise
of all its native capacities. Logic points out to
us the proper objects of philosophical research;
gives us clear and perspicuous ideas respecting
them; and assigns the boundary which, in our
investigations, we cannot pass, without wandering
into a dark and unknown region, where all is
doubt and uncertainty, and where dangers sur-
round us on every hand. From their erroneous
ideas on these points proceeded the vain and futile
speculations of philosophers respecting the con-
nexion between body and mind, cause and effect;
subjects over which the wisdom of the Deity has
drawn a veil impenetrable to mortal eyes.
"It is the province of logic too, to determine
the real and comparative value of the various
sciences, as connected with the improvement
1
THOMAS SIMPSON.
39
¥
of the mind, or with the practical business of
life, to point out the mode of investigation
peculiar to each, and the order which ought
to be observed in the gradual development of the
intellectual powers; hence it is of the greatest im-
portance to the instructor of youth, and differs
as widely from that disputatious art into which it
degenerated in the hands of the schoolmen, as the
objects of true knowledge differ from those to
which they directed their attention.
"It is unnecessary to trace the connexion
which subsists between morality and the science
of mind.
"We have already mentioned the importance
of this science to the moralist, and we may now
add, that the active or moral powers are in
the highest degree deserving of our attention, as
they constitute the great sources of action on
the stage of life, and upon their proper cultiva-
tion depends the welfare of society. The actions
of men, though in some respects they may be
considered as the effect of their opinions, and,
consequently, of their intellectual powers, are
far more generally the effect of their active
principles; from these spring all that variety of
moral character, the phenomena resulting from
which are continually soliciting our notice.
"To man as a social being, therefore, the science
40
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
which proposes to itself such objects of investiga-
tions must be of the highest importance, and the
cultivation of it must be inseparably connected
with his best and dearest interests.
"But the advantages attending moral science
are still more striking and important, when
viewed with respect to the education of youth.
Much has been written on this subject, and
various opinions have been expressed regarding
it; all, however, coincide in the general value
of the aids it receives from moral science.
"We shall confine ourselves to a very few
observations.
"The great business of education, then, ought
to be to cultivate the mental powers in such a
manner as to carry them to the highest pitch
of perfection of which they are susceptible,-to
guard the youthful mind from all erroneous
impressions, and to train it in the love of truth
and virtue.
"There are few men to be found endowed with
good sense and the power of reflection, who are
not conscious of very considerable defects in some
of their mental powers; but how few have been
able to remedy them! Such defects arise, not so
much from natural constitution, as from some
error in education, the principal object of which,
in this respect, is to cultivate the various faculties
THOMAS SIMPSON.
41
in unison, to restrain such as are too exuberant,
to strengthen those in which there appears to
be any deficiency, to assign to each their proper
degree of employment, and thus to maintain the
whole intellectual frame in the most perfect state
of vigour and of harmony.
"From want of attention to this, the most un-
fortunate consequences may ensue to the indivi-
dual in after life, a fact so well known that illus-
tration becomes unnecessary.
"An acquaintance with the principles of the
mental constitution would not only enable the
instructor of youth to maintain that balance in
the various faculties which is so essential to
happiness; it would also suggest to him many
useful expedients by which these faculties might
be severally improved, and would qualify him for
assigning the exercises which might prove most
conducive to this end, according to the diversity
of character and ability of his youthful charge.
Such an instructor was Socrates, the most vener-
able of the sages of antiquity, who, as history
informs us, taught the Athenian youth, not so
much by direct precepts, as by a faculty he pos-
sessed of leading them gradually by the exercise
of their own powers to the truths which he wished
to inculcate. It is an undeniable fact in our con-
stitution, that those associations and prejudices
42
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
C
which are formed in childhood can never be totally
eradicated; prejudices which, indeed, warp and
obscure the judgment, which have twined their
roots with all the essential principles of the human
frame.' Reason may indeed, shake them off, but
they still retain a secret yet powerful influence
over the heart, and hence become the sources of
action in those situations where they may be
attended with the most pernicious effects. In
the years of infancy we repose implicit reliance
on our guardians or instructors, and imbibe, with
unsuspecting confidence, the precepts which they
communicate -a wise provision this of nature,
but liable to the most fatal abuses. How often
does the child hear from the lips of his parents
the praises of wealth and grandeur, as if these
were the only essentials to happiness, a voice
far more dangerous and alluring than that of the
syrens in the fables of antiquity!
• Illa vox,
quæ timebatur erat blanda, non tamen publica :
at hæc, quæ timenda est, non ex uno scopulo, sed
ex omni terrarum parte circumsonat.'
6
“A single word of esteem or admiration of riches
falling from a father is enough to create a corre-
sponding passion for them in his son, a passion
which he will find it almost impossible to efface.
In the language of Seneca, Admirationem nobis
parentes auri argentique fecerunt, et tenuis
6
THOMAS SIMPSON.
43
infusa cupiditas altius sedit crevitque nobis-
cum.'
"If impressions, then, be so easily received, of
what vast importance is it that they should be
engaged on the side of truth and virtue, which
alone can guide us with safety and honour through
all the varied scenes of life, and at last conduct
us into a blissful immortality! Such is the great
and ultimate end of moral science. By an exten-
sive acquaintance with human nature, indeed,
men of vigorous minds are sometimes enabled to
form an accurate estimate of their own acquire-
ments, and thus, in some measure, to correct or
supply their defects; but to what pain and labour
does not this subject them, and of what infinite
value must such an education be, as would
obviate the necessity of spending a whole life-
time in unlearning the errors of our youth, and
enable us to press forward with unimpeded flight
in the pursuit of truth, till at length we attain
to the ultimate perfection of our nature!
"From these and innumerable other advan-
tages, we might fondly hope that, were the
science of mind universally understood and
applied to practice, Society would assume a more
perfect form, and realize the happy illusions of
the classic poets respecting the golden age.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
44
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
CHAPTER IV.
Connexion with the Governor of Hudson's Bay.-His Career.
-Refuses in 1825, and consents in 1828 to go to Hudson's
Bay.-Reasons for abandoning Study for the Church, and
for going to America, detailed in a Letter to his eldest Bro-
ther.-Occupations, Summer 1828.-Letter to the Author.
-Sails for America.
SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, the local-governor of
the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories, is the
illegitimate son of our mother's eldest brother.
To our mother he owed not only much of his
early education, but also his elevation from the
position of obscurity and neglect in which his
birth naturally placed him.
By assiduous entreaty she prevailed upon her
brother, a gentleman in London engaged in the
West India Trade, to receive the youth into
his counting-house. Once there his advance was
rapid, for he was clever, active, plausible, and
full of animal spirits. In this employment he
attracted the notice of an influential gentleman,
who had a business connexion with the house.
This was Mr. Andrew Colvile, brother-in-law
THOMAS SIMPSON.
45
of the Earl of Selkirk, a nobleman who had,
strangely, identified himself with the affairs of
the Hudson's Bay Company, taking a prominent
part in the rivalry which, for several years, was
carried on between that chartered company, and
the active and energetic, though unchartered,
North-West Company of Canada.
This rivalry caused some scenes of bloodshed;
but was more prolific of "monster prosecutions,"
which, at the time, excited as much interest
in Canada, as did the recent state trials in Ire-
land. It was truly described in an act of the
Imperial Parliament, as, "having been for some
years past productive of great inconvenience and
loss, not only to the said company and associa-
tion, but to the trade in general; and also of
great injury to the native Indians, and of other
persons subjects to his Majesty; and the ani-
mosity and feuds arising from such competition,
have also for some years past kept the interior
of America to the northward and westward of
the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, and
of the territories of the United States of Ame-
rica, in a state of constant disturbance; and
many breaches of the peace extending to the
loss of lives, and considerable destruction of
property, have continually occurred therein."
George Simpson was sent out to America to
46
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
take a share in this troublous contest; but,
shortly after his arrival, a coalition of the con-
tending parties took place. The capitalists of
the North-West Company, whose resources and
credit were well-nigh exhausted by the huge
expenses, (particularly for legal processes,) to
which this rivalry exposed them, yet succeed-
ed in making an arrangement with their char-
tered opponents, by which they retained one-
half of the capital stock of the United Asso-
ciation, and secured more than half of the offices
in America for their resident associates.
Mr. Simpson was immediately named as re-
sident-governor of one of the divisions of the coun-
try thus restored to harmony; and he exhibited
so much address and activity in this office, (fa-
vourable accidents also occurring,) that, a few
years afterwards, he was appointed governor of
the whole of the Company's possessions in
America, an office which he still continues to
hold.
In 1825, he came to Britain; and, in visiting
his aunt at Dingwall, he was so much struck
with the manner, appearance, and general cha-
racter of my brother, then returned from his
first year's attendance at the University, that he
earnestly pressed him to go to America as his
(the governor's) secretary.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
47
This offer was declined; but proposals made
to my eldest brother, (no relative, but a school-
fellow of Sir George's,) to proceed to America
as superintendent of the Hudson's Bay Company's
Marine department on the Pacific, were accept-
ed, and he proceeded to America in 1826. Alas!
the disappointments, privations, annoyances, and
anxieties which he encountered in this office,
resulted in his death in 1831. The writer, also,
was so lured by the highly coloured descriptions
of adventure to be encountered, and wealth to
be won, in this ungenial region, that he became
two years afterwards (1828) an emigrant to it.
After fourteen years' bitter experience of its cares
and crosses, he relinquished all connexion with
it. What were the feelings and opinions, in
regard to the service which he embraced, of
our more gifted and distinguished brother, will
be gathered in the sequel from his own words.
In 1828, the offers, which he had refused in
1825 were again pressed upon him,-now with
success. In the following letter addressed to
his eldest brother, he candidly states the reasons
which led to this acceptance. It is dated from
Norway House in the Hudson Bay Territories,
29 June, 1829:
"You will no doubt be surprised to find me
addressing you from this place, unless, perhaps,
48
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
''
the Governor informed you, during his visit to
the Columbia last winter, of the probability of
my joining him here this season.
"The reasons which led to this determination
on my part, none have a better right to know
than you, my dear Æmilius, who, while they
were fatherless and unprotected, acted more than
a fraternal part toward two boys who then knew
not how to estimate such kindness.
66
Shortly after entering the University, when
I began to reflect on choosing some future line
of life, of the three learned professions that which
tallied most with my own inclinations, and for
which I conceived myself best adapted, was the
medical. This idea I quietly entertained for
about two years, being too much occupied with
my studies and amusements to trouble myself
much on the subject; when finding that, from my
silence, my friends took it tacitly for granted
that I was rearing for the church, I thought
it time to suggest that my own sentiments led
to a different direction. A medical education
is, however, an expensive one; and I was soon
convinced from the total want of the needful in
the family, that it would be imprudent to cherish
these views any longer. I, therefore, made up
my mind, though with some reluctance, to com-
ply with the wishes of my family, and "follow
THOMAS SIMPSON.
49
the church." To the study of divinity, indeed,
I had only two objections, but they were serious
ones.
66
First, an extreme diffidence in my own re-
ligious qualifications; and
"Second, a deficiency in the Gaelic language,
which left me but little chance of obtaining a
living in that part of the country where I could
chiefly expect the exertion of influence in my
behalf.
"If to these you add a strong antipathy to
the very idea of becoming a tutor in a family,
which would necessarily be my lot for some
years; and, with all, a little of the spirit of
contradiction, and an unwillingness to be led,
the ranks of opposition were pretty strong. Hav-
ing, however, partly surmounted, partly evaded
these formidable obstacles-the life of a clergy-
man, his opportunities of doing good, together
with the domestic quiet and happiness he may
enjoy, were prospects to which I looked forward
with feelings certainly of a very pleasing de-
scription.
"I was now preparing to take out my degrees,
winter 1827-28, when, just after Alic, who spent
a happy week with me on his way to London,
had left me as I almost felt alone in the world,
I received a letter from my uncle, stating that
E
50
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
in a recent communication from America, the
Governor had expressed a regret that I was not
coming out that season; but that, if I would
still be induced to accept the offers he had made
me three years before, I might join him about
the time I am now addressing you. The idea
of pushing my fortune in America I had long
forgotten; but now that my studies at college
were about drawing to a close, I thought it
high time to consult with my friends upon the
matter. This I did at first by letter from Aber-
deen, and personally on my return. I found
but one opinion among them, viz., that from the
prospects held out, it would be at best imprudent
in me to decline the generous proposals. In this
opinion the worthy parson of Knockbain*—to
whose, I may say, paternal kindness, I am under
the deepest obligations fully concurred; de-
siring me to keep this in view, that if, upon
trial, the country, &c., did not agree with me,
I might still return to the old world, and pursue
my studies as if nothing had happened.
"His advice was sensible; and you know how
*The Rev. Roderick McKenzie, for more than half a
century clergyman of the parish of Knockbain in Ross-shire;
he married a sister of the elder Charles Grant, and was, in
benevolence and hospitality, the very model of a parish mi-
nister.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
51
difficult a thing it is for a young man, when
his friends are bent on a particular object, to
resist the torrent.
All these considerations, (for the old objec-
tions to the Church, though I overcame them
separately, now revived and acted as principal
auxiliaries,) combined with a strong though hi-
therto latent desire to travel, have induced me
to take a step which, be it for my good or for
my ill, has cast my lot, for some years at least,
in the wilds of the New World."
He continues:
"The terms of my engagement, after some
correspondence with the Directors through the
medium of uncle Geddes were, at length, settled.
They are favourable, for I enter on exactly the
same footing, in every respect, as if I were in
the last two years of my apprenticeship; (i. e.)
I am only bound for two years, with the last
two years' salary;" which salary was fixed at
the sum of 407. sterling for the first year, and
50%. for the second year.
It will be, naturally and justly, supposed that
expectations of rapid promotion and handsome
emolument must have been held out to induce
a young man of my brother's character, talents,
and acquirements, to accept this paltry pittance.
That these expectations were to be fallacious;
E 2
52
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
that his situation and treatment were of a very
different nature from his anticipations, he very
soon discovered. But he also soon foresaw that,
whenever the Governorship of the country be-
came vacant, he himself would be the person best
adapted to fill it; and that he would obtain this
appointment seemed to be tacitly allowed by
all parties. He did not foresee that a path
could be found in the same country, by which
a much higher distinction could be attained.
Attained it was, but at what a price!
An appointment of high promise, pressed upon
a young man in his twenty-first year, would gene-
rally have the effect of causing him to devote
the few antecedent months to idleness and
amusement: not so with my brother. He passed
the summer in attendance at the office of the
county clerk in his native town, with the view
of acquiring habits of business, devoting a part
of each day to the study of mineralogy and
botany.
The following is a letter addressed by him
to me (then in Canada) during this interval.
"MY DEAREST BROTHER,
"Dingwall, Sept. 30, 1828.
"I have assumed this page of our mother's
letter, though I have little wherewith to fill it;
and, though you are still my debtor for an epistle,
;
THOMAS SIMPSON.
53
the reply to which I, however, expect to receive
ere this reaches the western shores of the At-
lantic.
"I have, since I last addressed you, been a
regular attendant at Mr. H. J. Cameron's office,
and flatter myself I have acquired some ideas
of business that may be of service to me.
"Your hours of writing at Lachine must be
very irksome; I should not exactly relish such
confinement by way of a first trial. I am de-
lighted to find that, notwithstanding such disci-
pline, you enjoy good health and high spirits.
Your Highland fraternity will, no doubt, keep
you all alive and happy.
"Our glens and our mountains, though but
as rat-holes and mole-hills in comparison with
those of America, have this summer presented
a scene of unusual beauty; and we Dingwall
bloods have at last been intrepid enough to
storm the heights of Ben Nevis. We mustered
eight in number (exclusive of two men whom
we hired to carry the prog), viz., Bailie Donald
Stewart, Dr. Wood, (sirnamed Don Miguel, and
whom we had to transport part of the way in
a basket after we had consumed its contents,)
Roderick Hay, two William Rosses, George
Mackintosh, C. Stewart, and myself. A merry
group we were, with plenty of music, vivers,
54
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and aqua vitæ. The view from the beacon point
(on which we dined) was truly grand, including
an infinity of hills, lakes, and rivers, which lay
seemingly at our feet-the wide expanse of the
German Ocean-a peep of the North Sea 'yond
John-o'-Groat's, and of the Atlantic. Often
amid the general merriment, as my eye wandered
almost unconsciously to gaze on the distant verge
of the Atlantic, did I wish you were with us;
but then the mortifying idea occurred, what
would an inhabitant of the New World think
even of this? Pray, my dearest Alic, do in
your next give a somewhat more circumstantial
and detailed account of some of the more re-
markable features in your mode of life, and of
the scenery of the country in which you live:
e. g., what sort of a house you have? what kind
of vehicles you have to carry you to Montreal?
and what society does that city afford? — its
appearance—the breadth of the St. Lawrence,
&c. But I weary you, as you delight not in
long-winded descriptions.
"There is but little local news beyond the
narrow range of our gossip circle to communi-
cate—perhaps none deserving of a passage across
the Atlantic. Still, if I can furnish you with
any that will amuse but for a moment, the smile
they call forth will be an abundant recompense.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
55
"Hugh Cameron, my interim magister,' has
turned banker, which swells his income to up-
wards of a thousand a-year! So much for good
abilities and address; pretty fair, no doubt, for
remaining in one's native place. He now treats
with madeira and claret; not superior in flavour,
I'd venture to say, to your Canadian. But,
though our "glass of fashion," he has not as yet
had, nor is likely in a hurry to have, many
followers in his matrimonial career. In fact,
the matrimonial bubble, which produced so much
excitement on the surface of our 'petit monde,'
has, after all, quietly subsided into the old
level of celibacy-or, if you will, of bachelors
and old maids. I wish you saw Miss H :
she told me t' other day, with one of her ini-
mitable airs, as I was escorting a certain young
lady, that Miss
had more beaux than
she had.'
"Mr. G is quite well; but the dapper
little gentleman is in no hurry to get buckled
(coupled if ye will): I suppose he'd first wish
a snug stipend tagged to his tail. Poor black
John, the nabob's man, kicked on Saturday; our
mountain dew was too potent for his sunburnt
brain he died a martyr to his spiritual zeal. His
master was affected even unto tears; but the old
sinner can't yet think of parting with his mistress.
56
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
There is no other local news here worth
repeating; but that our beautiful strath has been
very gay this season with the Davidsons and
visitors at the Spa, &c. All friends here are
well, and desire to be kindly remembered :
and, in hopes of soon hearing from you, I
remain, my dearest Alic,
"Your ever affectionate brother,
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
In pursuance of the engagement with the
Hudson's Bay Company already adverted to, my
brother left Ross-shire in January, 1829. But,
profiting by his reverend friend's counsel
that it might possibly be advisable for him to
return to Scotland, and resume his preparation
for the ministry-he remained a short time in
Aberdeen, and attended the classes prescribed to
students for the ministry.
Happy, indeed, would it have been had he
finally devoted himself to that sacred office, for
the duties of which his zeal, energy, and self-
devotion so well qualified him; while, for its
quiet enjoyments, his love of study and warm
domestic affections were peculiarly adapted!
From Aberdeen he proceeded to London,
where he spent several weeks; and sailed from
Liverpool for New York on the 3rd March, 1829.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
57
CHAPTER V.
Arrival in America.-Travels during Summer, 1829.-Light
Canoes.- Canadian Voyageurs: their Habits and Songs.-
A Winter in Canada.-L'Ame de Glace.-Journey to the
North-west.-A troublesome Charge.-Extracts from Let-
ters to the Author.—A pleasant Residence.
My brother arrived at Lachine, a small village
near the city of Montreal at which the Company's
Canadian business is conducted, -on the 25th
April 1829, and I had for three days the satisfac-
tion of again associating with him,-my station
being at that place.
He left it on the 30th April with the annual
spring party, which proceeds from Canada to the
Hudson's Bay Territories.
Unfortunately the three officers who were his
fellow-travellers in the journey, were not fair
specimens of the officers of the association. They
were reckless, intemperate men, and their pro-
ceedings on the journey were of the most dis-
orderly description.
My brother, not being one of "those faultless
58
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
monsters whom the world ne'er saw," enjoyed this
rattling, rolicking mode of travelling, judging, of
course, that it formed part of "life in Hudson's
Bay." But on a strict investigation being subse-
quently made into these scenes of disorder, it
could not be asserted that he had ever been
in the slighest degree intoxicated; strict sobriety
was a habit from which he never swerved.
This investigation dissipated his misapprehen-
sion regarding the manner of life in the country
which he had adopted. On the 18th June, he
joined Governor Simpson at Norway House, and
immediately entered upon the duties of his secre-
tary and amanuensis, accompanying him in a tour
which he made through the south eastern part of
the Hudson's Bay Territory. Towards the latter
end of August they reached Lachine; and I again
enjoyed for a lengthened period, the society of
my brother.
He arrived in high health and spirits, quite
delighted with the journey, which had been per-
formed in a light canoe-that most exciting mode
of voyaging-in which the traveller is hurried on,
without the slightest exertion or fatigue on his own
part, over every impediment, at the utmost speed
which nine pairs of strong arms, kept in exercise
for an almost incredible portion of each day by a
liberal internal application of rum, by an occa-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
59
sional outward application of "a bit of oak," can
impart to the graceful and buoyant north
canoe.*
Talk of factory labour, and ten hours' bills!
why a genuine light canoe-man of the old school
was always ready for his work twenty hours out
of the twenty-four. And a gay and merry race
they were, these Canadian voyageurs, even under
this excessive toil! Wherever they went, they
These have
gaily sang their voyageur songs.
often mixed with the wild cries of the savages of
Missouri and Ohio: the St. Lawrence, Ottawa,
and each Canadian river, were, for many long
years, navigated only by the happy race who
carolled them forth: they lightened the labours
of the adventurous rovers who first penetrated into
the "Indian Territory," and pushed their way
even to the Pacific Ocean and the Arctic Sea.
The race is now all but extinct. Their songs,
in a few years, will be forgotten: nor will I
maintain that they were much worthy of pre-
servation either for their music or their words.
Yet many an hour have I listened to them with
* The canoes are built of thin cedar laths, covered over
with the tough bark of the birch-tree. They are so light, that
one which conveys twelve or fourteen people, with luggage,
&c., on long journeys, is carried past the rapids, or falls, and
frequently across several miles of country, by two men.
60
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
pleasure; and "La Belle Rose "*
yet, would
sound sweeter to my ear, albeit it were struck
up by a rough voice, and responded to by a
rougher chorus, than the strains of Grisi,-nay,
of the sweet singer of mine own North Country,
Wilson.
Governor Simpson made a matrimonial visit to
England in 1829-30, and during his absence my
brother formed one of the establishment in the
Canada agency.
* Every Englishman is supposed to be able to join in "God
save the Queen!" so every Canadian voyageur can swell, with
his sweet voice, the chorus of "La Belle Rose ;" and, in con-
sequence, it is generally selected to give éclat to the departure.
and arrival of the few bark canoes which still, once a year,
start from Canada for the North-west.
"La Belle Rose" is a virtuous young lady, described by
the voyaging troubadour as magnanimously declining naughty
offers made to her, though they were backed by a settlement
of "six cens francs par un," expressing her rejection thus:
"Je ne couche point avec un homme
Hors qu'il m'épouse auparavant."
Admirable, indeed, is the resolution declared by this damsel
(would that all damsels would observe it); and, to respect
such a resolution, every good and true voyageur was bound
by a solemn oath, which he took on passing the Rubicon-
the point any progress beyond which made him a true
“homme du nord—” possessed of an indisputable right to look
with contempt on "les Mangeurs de lard" (pork-eaters) of
his native parishes.
This Rubicon, by-the-bye, often shifted its position, at each
change being placed farther from the voyageur's centre of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
61
He was a scholar and a gentleman, and this
was sufficient to ensure him every kind of oppres-
sion and annoyance, which could safely be prac-
tised, from the person who held supremacy there.
L'ame de glace," was the name given by the
Canadians to this frozen martinet; and well did
he merit it.
To cast my brother into the shade; to sneer at
his pretensions (albeit, they were not intruded);
to enforce such excessive hours of business as
were alike destructive of health and pleasure ;
and, to utterly exclude him from the society of the
lake, named the
summit of a pass
civilisation-Montreal. It was at a little
"Committee's punch-bowl," situated at the
in the Rocky Mountains, its waters running into the Arctic
Sea from the eastern end, and into the Pacific Ocean from
the western, that I took a solemn vow, "De ne jamais
coucher avec la femme ou la fille d'un voyageur-sans qu'elle
veut."
The music of a large number of the voyageur songs was
noted, and published recently by Sir George Buck; a few
of them have been adapted to quadrilles, and are (or were)
fashionable in Canada. The words are generally silly, and
often indecent; indeed, I hardly know one that would bear
printing either sense or decency would be wanting. They
bear intrinsic evidence of ancient composition; i. e. by the
first French emigrants to Canada, for French cities are fre-
quently mentioned, while Canadian towns are seldom named.
Some hundred years hence they will be eagerly sought by
Canadian antiquaries, who will discover sense in them, as
other antiquaries have done, in strains equally trivial.
62
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
neighbouring city, for which he was so well fitted,
constituted the delight of this person! And,
great as is my admiration of the extremes of
fortitude and perseverance which my brother
exhibited in his three years' travels in the Arctic
region, I must confess that, to my mind, they
appear less extraordinary than the patience and
coolness, with which a man, so young, so gifted,
so ardent, and so sensitive, endured this trying
ordeal. Even his stout constitution began to give
way under it; and as he grasped my hand on
parting with me in April, he said, "thank God I
am getting away, for I couldn't have stood
another week of it."
The party which annually leaves Canada for
the Indian Territories, is composed, principally
of young men who have been engaged by re-
cruiting agents during the previous winter. The
North-West Company, which had much popu-
larity among the French Canadians, always had .
a selection from the élite of the youth of the
parishes of the Montreal district. It gave high
wages to its servants, supplied them, to an extent
sufficient for an economical man, with clothing,
&c., gratis; foreseeing that, while a few of its
servants would confine themselves to these sup-
plies, thereby lay by their annual wages, and
thus return to Canada with wealth sufficient to
i.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
63
settle down as the rich men and heroes of their
native parish (a bait to induce others to follow
the same course)—the great majority would, with
the characteristic imprudence of their class, re-
quire supplies of clothing for themselves and also
for their women (whom they changed frequently).
For these articles they paid such enormous prices
that the balance struck between the amount of
their wages and of their supplies, frequently left
them debtors at the year's end. While it was no
unusual thing to see voyageurs of the old school
returning to Canada with savings to the amount
of five hundred, and even a thousand pounds,
there were many of them whose debts to their
employers exceeded three years' wages.
In the Hudson's Bay Company's service the
system is very different. The wages given are
low; seventeen pounds sterling per ann., being
the standard for labouring men. No clothing is
allowed to them gratis; but they can purchase
their supplies from the Company's stores at very
moderate prices. This, of course, places it out of
the power of any servant to amass large savings.
The employment also is quite altered. Under the
old régime the establishments were large; where
many Canadians are congregated together there
will ever be much gaiety and amusement: and
the service generally consisted of a hard canoe
64
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
paddle for two or three months in summer, during
which there was abundance of excitement to
lighten the toil; the winter bringing a few weeks'
trial of strength and skill in wood-cutting, varied
by an occasional journey, in which the qualities of
their respective teams of dogs could be tested.
Now the winter is passed in one unvarying round
of monotonous labour by the few men scattered
at the different posts; while the season of open
water is entirely occupied by continual and ex-
hausting toil in slow-moving boats.
No wonder that the gay Canadians of the old
voyageur parishes of Sorel, Maskinonge, and
Yamaska, dislike the new system, and decline to
take service under it. The Canadians who now
engage, are generally somewhat of the same class as
were those with whom filled Falstaff up his redoubt-
able regiment. They obtain a few months' wages in
advance and that is their sole object, which,
being accomplished, a considerable number never
think of appearing at the point of embarkation;
while of those who actually do take their depar-
ture in the northward bound brigade, many are
in a similar condition to young Master Laun-
celot.*"A fiend at their elbows continually
* “The fiend is at mine elbow and tempts me, saying to
me, Gobbo, Launcelot Gobbo, good Launcelot, or good
Gobbo, or good Launcelot Gobbo, use your legs-take the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
65
66
urging, use your legs, take the start, run away."
And as they pass for a fortnight through a country
which affords them numerous opportunities of
putting the fiend's advice into execution, the
management of such a party requires no little
tact.
My brother had this charge on leaving Canada,
in April 1830, and conducted his party, consisting
of nearly a hundred persons, with much celerity
and with less loss by desertion than was usual, to
Lake Superior. Beyond this the route lay
through the unsettled wilderness, where it re-
quired no conscience to tell the young recruits
to "scorn running with their heels:" the most
courageous fiend would have had difficulty in
saying where they could run to. "You have
been in Paradise so far, now you 'll be in purga-
tory," is the consolation they receive from the
old hands when they are thus placed beyond the
bounds of civilization.
At Lake Superior my brother was, therefore,
freed from this troublesome charge; and joined the
scorn
start run away.' My conscience says 'no ! take heed,
honest Launcelot-take heed, honest Gobbo, or, as aforesaid,
take heed, honest Launcelot Gobbo; do not run;
running with thy heels.' Well-the most courageous fiend
bids me pack: Via !' says the fiend; 'away!' says the fiend;
'for the heavens rouse up a brave mind,' says the fiend, and
run.'-Merchant of Venice.
6
F
66 -
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
light canoes which conveyed Governor Simpson,
his young wife, and several officers of the Com-
pany. Proceeding along the usual channel of
inland communication, they reached York factory,
on Hudson's Bay, on the 27th of June.
The light canoe voyage, and the system of all
work and no play (still less pleasure) during a
summer residence at that place, are concisely de-
scribed in the following extract from my brother's
letter to me:
"On the morning of the 21st of May I
embarked in C. F. Christie's canoe, the Governor
and his Lady being in company; spent a day at
Fort William where we took two handsome north
canoes (the most delightful of all conveyances),
each nine men. After many accidents from
the high waters, in one of which Mr. Christie and
I filled our canoe to the gunwales, in the river
Savanna or Embarras, which obliged us all to en-
camp for half a day in a swamp during a strong
frost-we arrived at Bas de la Rivière on the 5th
of June. The Governor and Lady started the same
evening for Red River, and Mr. Christie and I
spent that and the following day with C. F. John
Stuart; then continued on for Norway House,
where, after very stormy weather in Lake Winipeg,
we arrived on the 11th, and found we were only
preceded by Mr. Miles, who had arrived in a
THOMAS SIMPSON.
67
light canoe from York Factory at eleven o'clock
the night before. On the 14th, the Governor
and Lady, C. F. Finlayson, &c., arrived in two
canoes from Red River, and remained till the
22nd; during which time many of the brigades
from the interior made their appearance, and
were despatched to York Factory without delay.
On the evening of the 21st, six north canoes
arrived with the recruits, &c., from Canada, and a
few minutes after twelve (A.M. 22nd) we started
for York in two canoes, the party consisting of the
Governor and Lady, C. F. Lewes, C. T. Miles
and I; Mr. Christie who is appointed to this
place, and Mr. Finlayson having gone down
some days before. We had a very merry descent,
if you except a day and a half degraded, in Knee
Lake,—during which we had the honour of erect-
ing and engraving a superb May-pole to Mrs. Simp-
son;† and after fine running of rapids in Hill River,
&c., arrived here before day-break on the morning
of the 27th, i. e., in five days (including one day
*
* A voyageur expression, meaning detained by wind or
weather.
+ Mrs. (now Lady) Simpson was also our cousin. She
was but eighteen when she married, and undertook the long
journey, which was followed by a three years' residence in a
distant and savage region. Her prepossessing appearance
and manners made her an object of much interest among
its few civilized (or, more properly, demi-civilized,) residents.
F 2
68
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
´and a half stopped by weather)-a distance of
four hundred miles; having come from Little Jack
River the previous morning, 26th, a distance of
one hundred and fifty measured miles without
resting once.
"The despatches are just closed (31st of July),
and I have at length a moment to myself,
which has not been the case for upwards of
a month past, during which I have had little time
for sleep, and none for exercise. Indeed, exer-
cise is almost a thing out of the question here in
the summer season, even were there time for
it; as the country round the Factory, though
elevated above the river, is one entire swamp,
covered with low stunted pine, and perfectly
impenetrable at this season, even were it free of
the clouds of mosquitos by which it is infested.
In fact, the land seems from its quality to have
been thrown up by the sea, and it is never thawed
to any great depth even by the hottest summer.
The myriads of mosquitos which it gives birth to
are quite indescribable. The soil is never thawed
by the sun's rays to the depth of more than
ten or twelve inches; below, is a solid bed of
frozen earth, while the upper covering affected
by the sun's rays is of the consistence of clammy
mud, through which the foot sinks at every step:
even in the centre of the Factory, it is necessary
THOMAS SIMPSON.
69
to keep on the wooden platforms to avoid sink-
ing over the ankles.
"We have had some very hot weather during
this month, the thermometer for several days
ranging in the shade between 90° and 100°, and
on one occasion I observed it as high as 99°;
but the weather is extremely changeable, and
a night or two after, the thermometer was as
low as 29°: transitions from 90° to 40° I ob-
served in several instances in the course of an
hour, merely by a change of wind; and the
sudden torrents of rain which frequently come
from the bay would astonish you: in short, it is
altogether a horrible climate, and the gloomy
sternness of the winter, which rules two-thirds
of the year, is not likely to improve the scene.
""
In this pleasant place he passed the remainder
of the year," in order," so he expresses it, “to
get an insight into the accounts, which, like
everything else about the establishment, are in
the highest order :" he continues,
"And we are certainly very comfortable,
excellent accommodation and the best of fare,
viz., venison (our staple dish), fish, hams, geese,
buffalo tongues, soups, vegetables grown in hur-
dles laid out on the frozen earth, and then
covered with soil-pastry, preserves, &c.; forbye
excellent wines and famous porter." Snug quar-
70
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ters these, so far as eating and drinking go, com-
pared with his subsequent position at Fort Confi-
dence, where a scanty supply of fish was often
the only food, and unsweetened tea, made of
the bitter herbs of the swamps, the only luxury!
His cheerful temperament made him contented,
if not happy, under any circumstances.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
71
·
CHAPTER VI.
Life in the
A Winter Journey of seven hundred Miles.
Woods. Red River Colony.-Letter to the Author on
the Death of our eldest Brother.-Sketches of Character.
My brother remained at York Factory-the
pleasant residence described in the last chapter,
until the 10th of February 1831, when, agreeably
to instructions, he started for Red River. This
was a winter's journey of seven hundred miles;
a good trial for a novice in this mode of travel-
ling; but he made light of it.
He was furnished with an excellent set of
dogs, by means of which, had he been lazily in-
clined, he might have been conveyed at his ease
all day; or, at any rate, might have spared him-
self a few hours of the daily march. But he
was ambitious after excellence in all things; he
determined to make himself a "good leg" on
snow-shoes, and never once took refuge in his
vehicle.
He thus describes the journey to me:-
"On the 10th of February I started from the
72
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Factory on snow-shoes,* with a small party of
men and Indians, and a couple of trains of dogs.
"Our route lay partly on lake and river way,
and partly through the woods to Norway House,
and from thence on Lake Winipeg to the mouth
of the Red River. We travelled as fast as the
dogs could follow, which, for the greater part of
the way, was about thirty miles per day; the
last two hundred miles I accomplished in five
days; and my longest day on snow-shoes was
fifty miles. The whole distance is about seven
hundred miles, which occupied twenty-two days'
marching, besides six days we were obliged to
stop to rest our dogs at Oxford House, Norway
House, and Beren's River. For myself I never
felt fatigue, though I left two of my men com-
pletely knocked up on the way; besides taking
fresh Indians at Norway House.
"Winter travelling is a most healthy and
strengthening exercise, and gives one a most
voracious appetite: 'good digestion waits on ap-
petite, and health on both;' and, in your cham-
ber dug into the snow, a fence of brushwood on
* Snow-shoes are made of wooden frames of about four
feet long by a foot broad, peaked before and behind the
frames are supports for a network of sinews. They are
strapped to the feet, and enable the wearer to pass over snow,
into which he would otherwise sink deep. They weigh one
and a half to two pounds per shoe.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
73
three sides, a huge fire made of whole trees on
the fourth; your bed a litter of pine branches
spread on the frozen soil; your bedding a blan-
ket, and (sometimes) a skin; the starry heavens
your canopy—more sound and refreshing sleep
is enjoyed, than waits upon many an one sunk in
cushions of down, and curtained with silk.
66
I think, by the bye, old Ovid must have been
a traveller in a hyperborean region, from his
lucid description of the most important opera-
tions of a winter encampment. I won't bore you
with the classics; but here goes Dryden's ver-
sion:-
'With leaves and bark he feeds the infant fire;
It smokes and then, with trembling breath, he blows,
Till in a cheerful blaze the flames arose.
With brushwood and with chips he strengthens these,
And adds at last the trunks of rotten trees.
The fire thus formed, he sets the kettle on.'
"The day's march, moreover, is one scene of
excitement; each man putting his best foot fore-
most, afraid that his follower will tread on his
heels-the greatest insult a good leg' can re-
ceive. Then we have continual amusement from
the dogs; their bells ring a merry lively peal as
they jog along; they often show the perversity of
their nature by going out of the right path, get-
ting entangled among the trees or bushes, or
74
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
with each other; and to right them gives occa-
sional relief to the monotony of the steady tramp.
"I thought little of the cold; and during the
march never wore anything warmer than a cloth
capot."
There are strong indications even in this brief
narrative, that my brother wanted neither enter-
prise nor stamina for travelling in the "Far
North." But it must not be supposed that all in
that country possess the same powers, or the same
habits; that all who go to this region of snow
do, really, suffer an arctic change: on the con-
trary, my brother was considered as acting very
absurdly in thus exposing himself unnecessarily
to fatigue. There are many officers in that coun-
try who have never walked a day's journey on
foot; whose whole life is one of almost object-
less torpor, a transition du lit à la table, de la table
au lit.
When these do travel from one point
to another, they do it with such means and ap-
pliances, that the journey entails but the small-
est modicum of fatigue or exposure. There is
a well known instance of an officer crossing from
Hudson's Bay to the Pacific without once wet-
ting his feet he would have performed the same
feat in returning, had not his carrier been bribed
to souse him by accident. Another made a tour
through a large portion of the country: over
THOMAS SIMPSON.
75
hill and dale, through tangled forest, and up steep
cliffs; yet no representation of his guides as to
the all but impossibility of the dogs' dragging
his carriole, with himself in it, over these diffi-
culties, could induce him to swerve from his
usual habit of walking one hour per day for
appetite, remaining during the rest of the time
snugly wrapped up in his furs and blankets.
Such men would have been ill adapted for fatigues,
labours, and privations, such as those which
Arctic discovery imposed upon my brother.
Immediately on his arrival at Red River, he
entered upon the duties for which his talents,
assiduity, and business habits, so well fitted
him; and those duties engrossed his whole time
and attention. "My occupations, in short,"
he writes me, "have been very various; secre-
tary, clerk, storesman, surveyor, &c. ;" and such
they continued for the succeeding five years,
during which he was the active manager of the
details of the colony business. He annually
made a voyage to York Factory, to arrange that
business in its external relations; this occupied
four to five months of each year, and the re-
maining months were busily employed in its in-
ternal arrangements.
His own description of this secluded and al-
most unknown little colony, will be found in the
76
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
next chapter; I shall preface it by portions of
his correspondence with me.
On hearing of our eldest brother's death, he
wrote me thus:
"MY DEAREST ALIC.
"York Factory, July 21st, 1832.
"The hand of affliction has been heavy upon
us this year. In my letter from Red River I
mentioned the death of the Governor's infant
boy; and now we have to deplore a much greater
loss, the death of our poor brother, Æmilius.
Poor fellow! he had been highly successful on
the coast; conducted the expedition that safely
formed the establishment at Nass, among the
warlike inhabitants of Observatory Inlet; and was
in the highest spirits at his good fortune when
the arrow of death smote him.
"How vain are man's hopes! He was the
dutiful son; the affectionate brother; and the
generous honourable friend; but all this could not
save him.
Were there only this world, we might
truly say of what profit is it to be upright? But
there is a better one; and the circumstances of
his death are most consoling. He expired per-
fectly sensible and resigned, at Nass, on the
2nd of September, after a thirteen days' illness of
his old enemy-the liver complaint, during which
THOMAS SIMPSON.
77
he endured much suffering, till towards the last,
when the pain ceased; and so calm was his end,
that the medical man alone perceived it. A few
minutes before, he asked him "Doctor, is there
no hope?" "Well, then," he continued, "God's
will be done. I have nothing to communicate.
I am resigned to my fate." He was buried with
every mark of honour and respect; and his re-
mains rest within a few yards of the guns of
Fort Simpson. My heart is too full to say more.
I send you your last letters to him. I have a
lock of his hair, which I shall keep, or send to
our dearest mother. Poor woman! what a blow
this will be to her! May Providence support
her under it!
"I can only acknowledge and thank you grate-
fully for your letters of the 20th and 29th of April,
and the 7th and 10th of May, which I shall reply
to by another opportunity. We two, I may say,
are now left alone, and should, if possible, love
each other even more than before. I am much
harassed with business and my own feelings, which
I must suppress.
"I shall write our dear mother under cover
to you in a day or two. God bless you, my dear-
est Alic, and believe me,
"Your ever affectionate brother,
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
78
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
The following extracts afford rapid sketches
of character of those with whom he was thrown
into contact in this "wild unknown to public
view." (Date, July, 1833. Governor Simpson
was absent in England during the year 1833-
34.)
"You would, perhaps, like to know how we
have been going on here this season-exceed-
ingly well; far less bustle and as good and rapid
work as if the Governor himself were on the
ground.
"Entre nous, I have often remarked, that his
Excellency miscalculates when he expects to
get more out of people by sheer driving; it only
puts every one in ill humour. Since I have
been at the Factory, I have never seen so much
cheerfulness accompanied by strictest regularity
as this season.
"To myself, in particular, the difference is
very great; as, with all the Governor's good
will and kind intentions, he has been to me a
severe and most repulsive master. I know, and
he has more than once told me, that this was
a matter of policy with him; but he veiled his
policy very badly, so that every clerk could see
through it, which would have gradually brought
me into contempt: but I have this season taught
them that I could command respect, and have
THOMAS SIMPSON.
79
been in consequence treated by every one, high
and low, more en bourgeois than en commis.*
"Chief Factor Christie, you will have heard,
is now governor of Red River, and has, besides,
the summer management of York Factory; so
that he is now in fact the second man in Rupert's
land. And well does he merit such a situation;
for a worthier or more honourable man I believe
never existed. I feel particularly happy in act-
ing under him; in fact, he is the only man
whom I have yet seen in the country, whom
I could now respect and esteem, as my immediate
superior. His sound judgment, his integrity, his
liberal and enlarged views, entitle him to the
former, while his genuine kindness of heart and
manner ensure the latter. Yes manner, as the
governor has often told me, is half-more than
half the battle: but in that which he so much
vaunted, he ought himself to have set the ex-
ample. By assuming a harsh manner towards me,
he should have known-he who lays claim to
so much tact and knowledge of human nature—
that the necessary effect on a young and generous
mind would be a reciprocal repulsiveness, per-
haps hatred; but I know his real sentiments, and
forgive his apparent, though unnecessary unkind-
ness. Yes, manner is half the battle; and in this,
*The Canadian terms for partners and employés.
80
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
as well as in every other service, (except those in
which personal bravery is the only test of merit,)
I say, in every peaceful service, he who does not
endeavour to make himself agreeable to his fellow-
men, acts in opposition to the first social principle,
and cannot expect that his fellow-men should
step out of their path to benefit or advance him.
"I will not conceal from you, that on a nearer
view of his character than I before had, I lost
much of that internal respect I entertained to-
wards him. His firmness and decision of mind
are much impaired: both in great and small
matters, he has become wavering, capricious, and
changeable; in household affairs, (for he is his
own butler and housekeeper,) the very cook says
openly, that he is like a weathercock.
"He has grown painfully nervous and crabbed,
and is guilty of many little meannesses at table
that are quite beneath a gentleman, and, I might
add, are indicative of his birth.
"His general management of the colony I
cannot admire it is faulty and inconsistent in
many respects. He was very much under the
influence of the clergy, spent great part of his
time with that cowardly empty little puppy
and was at the beck of every beggarly
long-winded Scot, who came with a pitiful story,
to ask a pound of tea or tobacco.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
81
66
'Viewing the service generally, I must candidly
confess, judging from the actions of others, that
its promises of happiness are hollow, while an
awful fatality seems to overhang its retiring mem-
bers, a punishment for the unprincipled and licen-
tious lives they have led. But let not this dis-
courage us, my dear boy, who have commenced
our career in better times, and with brighter hopes
-for there are, really, so few men of any preten-
sions to talent in the country, that if common
justice is done us we must soon become conspi-
cuous. I speak the words of truth, not of vanity.
Indeed, the Governor told me the very evening
before starting, Whether my head be under
or above the sod, your character and abilities
will and must soon bring you forward.'
(Soon is a word often understood differently by
different persons. My brother writes me, three
years afterwards,
“A word, even of acquiescence, from the
Governor would have procured me a commission
as Chief Trader this year: but the name of
Simpson is a disadvantage; and, notwithstand-
ing the promises made me when I came to the
country, and the new and arduous duty to which
I have volunteered, I must wait." Assuredly
there was no nepotism here!)
During the summer, we have had several
G
82
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
1
of the Commissioned gentlemen here: Chief
Factors* Cameron, Rowand, Lewes, and Mac-
kenzie; and Chief Trader Todd, besides the re-
sidents.
"The first (Cameron) is our Senior Factor (in
the absence of that silly drone, C. Robertson),
an excellent and truly upright Canadian High-
lander.
"Rowand is an English Canadian-a generous
warm-hearted man, brave as a lion, and fiery
as gunpowder. He is Chief of the Saskatche-
wan, the most valuable and populous district
in the country, and the most skilful Indian
trader we have.
"Lewes is a fine honourable Englishman.
"Mackenzie is a well-meaning, warm-hearted,
but passionate and crabbed old Highlander
(whom you may have heard uncle George speak
of, far back in the last century).
"Todd is a dry, but good jovial Irishman: it
was he who fought with Barnston.
"Chief Trader Miles is accountant and winter
* The officers in the service of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, are classed thus:
Clerks, receiving salaries of from 20l. to 100l. per annum.
Chief Traders, receiving emoluments equal to
whole profits of the Company.
4
Ο
of the
Chief Factors, receiving emoluments equal to of the
whole profits of the Company.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
83
chief of the Factory. He is a good-hearted
Englishman, very able at the desk, but eternally
grumbling; and his judgment is no deeper than
his inkstand. He has given notice that he will
go home on furlough next year; and there have
been many hints thrown at me regarding this
situation; but I have done and said every thing
to steer clear of it, as I could not endure the
wretched climate and inactive life.
Next to Miles in the Factory is Mr. Har-
grave, who manages the stores: a good, able,
deep-thinking, and deeply-read Scotchman from
the banks of the Tweed-my most intimate
friend in the country, and likely to become a
very leading man. There are, besides, three or
four understrappers, who are not worth notice.
"There were only three Senior Clerks here
this season. The first, John Tod, is a good
lowland Scot, and a very experienced trader,
having been many years in that starving but
valuable district, New Caledonia. He is a man
of excellent principle, but vulgar manners.
"The second, Richard Grant, is Mr. Rowand's
right-hand man, a jolly, humorous Scotch Ca-
nadian, and quondam officer of militia; like-
wise, a very experienced trader, but rather scamp-
ish, which retards his promotion.
"The third is James Douglas, of highly re-
G 2
84
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
spectable English extraction, born, I believe, in
the West Indies; an honourable, determined fel-
low, much liked-and, I think, will be one of
the four new Chief Traders next year.
"But I imagine I have tired you out, as I
have done myself, and could not proceed further
in this strain without giving you a general bio-
graphy of the whole country.
"If the Governor does not come out again,
I have no idea who will step into his shoes. Old
Keith is a dried spider: good heavens! what a
Governor! I wish I were five years older: in
every other respect, without vanity, I feel my-
self perfectly competent to the situation; and,
with one or two exceptions, hold the abilities
of our wigs in utter contempt. This season I
have been intimate with many of them-have,
in the Governor's absence, had much to do with
the general business, and see how easily these
men can be led."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
85
CHAPTER VII.
Description of Red River Colony.-Letters to the Author.
IT
It may be interesting to quote from my
brother's own description of the secluded and
almost unknown little colony of Red River,
"Situated under the 50° of North Latitude,
and 97° of West Longitude, at an elevation of
eight or nine hundred feet above the sea, and
stretching for upwards of fifty miles along the
wooded borders of the Red and Assiniboine
Rivers which flow through a level country of
vast extent, it possesses a salubrious climate and
fertile soil; but summer frosts generated by un-
drained marshes sometimes blast the hopes of the
husbandman, and the extremes of abundance and
want are experienced by an improvident people.
Horses, horned cattle, hogs, and poultry are ex-
ceedingly numerous: wheat, barley, oats, potatoes,
turnips, and most of the ordinary culinary vege-
tables thrive well; pumpkins, melons, and cucum-
bers, come to maturity in the open air in favour-
86
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
able seasons; maize, peas, and beans have not been
extensively cultivated; hops grow luxuriantly;
flax and hemp are poor and stunted; orchards are
as yet unknown.
The banks of the river are cultivated to the
width of from a quarter to half a mile. All the
back level country remains in its original state—
a vast natural pasture covered for the greater
part of the year with cattle, and also furnishing
the inhabitants with a sufficiency of coarse hay for
the support of their herds during the winter.
The length of this severe season exceeds five
months; the rivers usually freezing in November
and opening in April, when there is a fine
sturgeon fishery; but Lake Winipeg, the grand
receptacle of the river waters, does not break up
till the close of May. The most common sorts of
wood are oak, elm, poplar, and maple: pines are
likewise found towards Lake Winipeg. Fire-
wood is rafted down the rivers from above the
limits of the colony during summer, or transported
on sledges when the snow falls; but as this
essential article, is now, through waste and neglect,
growing less plentiful, many of the inhabitants
have provided themselves with cast-iron stoves,
which occasion a much less consumption of fuel.
The two principal churches, Protestant and
Roman Catholic, the gaol, the Company's chief
THOMAS SIMPSON.
87
buildings, the Bishop's residence, and the houses
of some retired officers of the fur-trade are built
of stone, which is brought from a considerable
distance. The generality of the settlers dwell
in frame or log houses, roofed with wooden slabs,
bark, or shingle; and for the most part washed
or painted externally. Not a man, however
mean or idle, but possesses a horse, and they vie
in gay carioles, harness, saddles, and fine clothes.
A great abundance of English goods is imported
both by the Company and by individuals in the
Company's annual ships to York Factory, and
disposed of in the colony at moderate prices.
Labour is dear, and produce of all kinds sells at
a higher rate than could be expected in such a
secluded place.
The bulky nature of such exports as could
be furnished-a long and dangerous navigation to
Hudson's Bay-but above all the roving and
indolent habits of the half-breed race who form
the mass of the population, and love the chase
of the buffalo better than the drudgery of agri-
culture or regular industry-seem to preclude the
probability of this colony rising to commercial
importance.
The currency of the place consists in the
Company's notes, with a small amount of silver
and copper coin. Fifteen wind and three water
88
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
mills grind the wheat and prepare the malt of the
inhabitants, who use neither barley nor oats in
bread. Of all these mills two only have been
erected by a Roman Catholic, a gentleman in
the Company's pay as Warden of the Plains; the
rest are in the hands of the Protestants, who con-
stitute but two-fifths of the population (which
is in all about five thousand souls).
It may be remarked that while not a few of
the children by native women of the Company's
retired European servants, who are chiefly Ork-
ney men, inherit the plodding, careful disposition
of their fathers, the half-breed descendants of the
French Canadians, are, with rare exceptions,
characterized by the paternal levity and extrava-
gance, superadded to the uncontrollable passions
of the Indian blood. Many of the industrious
Scotch, who first planted the colony, in 1811,
under the auspices of the late Earl of Selkirk,
have saved handsome sums of money, besides
rearing large families in rustic plenty. A con-
siderable portion of this valuable class, how-
ever, dreading the predominance and violence
of the half-breeds, with whom they have avoid-
ed inter-marrying, have converted their pro-
perty into money and removed to the United
States.
There are here two Protestant clergymen, a
THOMAS SIMPSON.
89
*
Roman Catholic bishop, and three priests from
Canada. These self-denying men are exemplary
in their lives, and zealous and indefatigable in
their benevolent labours, among the fruits of
which may be reckoned the conversion of a great
number of Indians of the Cree and Saulteaux
or Chipeway nations. The Reverend Mr. Cockran
(protestant clergyman) has provided schoolmasters
for the native children, and built places of wor-
ship at the lower extremity of the colony where
he regularly officiates. He has constructed a
windmill for the Indians, assists them in erecting
*The Bishop (a French Canadian) made a tour in Europe
in the year 1836, with the view to collect funds for the com-
pletion of a cathedral which he had begun a few years before
on a very extensive scale, hoping to complete it by the assist-
ance of his flock. They, however, had but little money to give,
and as little inclination to contribute their labour for the
advancement of the sacred edifice.
His Lordship reports of his tour, that he collected abund-
ance of relics, crosses, and beads in Italy; that in France the
faithful were liberal in their donations of pictures and vest-
ments; but that in England only were his applications for
substantial contributions (the sinews of church building as of
war) followed by a result.
A more jolly, portly looking man than Monseigneur L'Evêque
de Juliopolis will not be readily met with. Friar Tuck was, in
size, a baby compared with him! That he labours with zeal,
judgment, and discretion for the advancement of the temporal
as well as the spiritual interests of his diocese, is testified by
every one acquainted with him and it.
90
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
their wooden houses, and with his own hand sets
the example of industry;-at the other extremity
of the colony, M. Belcour, one of the Roman
Catholic priests, with untiring zeal, conducts a
location of Saulteaux Indians on a smaller scale.*
I wish I could add, that the improvement of
the Aborigines is commensurate to these bene-
ficent cares. But, unhappily, the experience
of Canada, of the United States, of California,
* The Catholic and Protestant Missionaries at Red River
labour in the work of Christianization without much rivalry or
opposition to each other. But, unfortunately, it is not so in
all parts of this extensive wilderness; where assuredly there
ought to be "ample scope and verge enough" for all whose
real object is to preach Christ crucified, and him only. I
shall relate two instances of this hurtful rivalry which have
come under my own observation.
A Wesleyan clergyman from Canada passed the winter of
1838-39, at the western extremity of Lake Superior. The
Indians were all but pagans; they had once seen and received
baptism from a Catholic priest stationed about a hundred
miles off.
The Wesleyan laboured assiduously, and began to have a
numerous congregation whom he diligently instructed. The
Priest heard of this; he considered the poor natives as adherents
of the Pope, and he couldn't afford to lose them without a
struggle. He would not venture among them himself; but
he despatched one of his acolytes; and to ensure his success
furnished him with a fearful picture, representing the Enemy
of Mankind (the bad Manitou) busily employed in forking
Protestants into the burning pit. This piece of "pictorial
preaching" had such an effect, that the worthy Wesleyan
THOMAS SIMPSON.
91
in short of all parts of North America, where
the experiment of ameliorating the character of
the Indian tribes by civilization has been tried,
is renewed at Red River. Nothing can over-
come their insatiable desire for intoxicating
liquors; and though they are here excluded
from the use of spirits, and the settlers are
fined when detected in supplying them with
ale, yet, they too often contrive to gratify that
could never afterwards muster another meeting ; and loud were
his subsequent denunciations of "The Woman of Babylon,"
"The Scarlet Lady," " Antichrist," &c.
A somewhat similar occurrence took place in " Oregon."
The Protestants (American missionaries) had first occupied
the field. French Canadian priests arrived a few years after-
wards, and soon gained great ascendancy over the natives by
the distribution of a "biblical tree," showing, pictorially,
many of the Old Testament events, the coming of our
Lord Jesus and the subsequent progress of His church
until those pestilential heretics Luther and Calvin, verged
from the straight narrow way leading to salvation, into
a crooked road which (so the picture shadowed) led them
and their followers to eternal fire. This had wonderful effect;
and the Protestant brethren tried in vain to regain the
lost ground, by exhibiting an antagonist tree, showing the
gradual divergence of Rome from the right path. Truly it
becomes every true Christian to pray, that the time may
speedily come when it will be felt by all, that religion
“Is not for sect and creed to fight,
To call our zeal the rule of right;
When what we wish is, at the best,
To see our church excel the rest.”
92
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
debasing inclination, to which they are ready
to sacrifice every thing they possess. They
feel no gratitude to their Benefactors or spiritual
teachers and while they lose the haughty
independence of savage life, they acquire, at
once, all the bad qualities of the white man,
but are slow, indeed, in imitating his industry
and his virtues. Yet among the native tribes
there exist marked distinctions. The Swampy
Crees, who have long been employed in the
Company's service at York Factory and other
places, adopt steady habits with far greater
facility than the proud Saulteaux, who con-
temptuously term the settlers "gardeners and
diggers of the ground."
A few extracts from my brother's letters to me
will convey his opinions regarding the condition
and management of the settlement.
"Our plans of colonization are so wild and un-
fortunate, and the Company's business is tortured
by so many, and such strange changes, that as
a man of business I feel but little satisfaction in
it. We have shepherds, shepherdesses, and dogs
numberless come out. But the wolves have been
ravaging the flocks—the tallow trade is broken up,
and the experimental farm be-devilled. All that
sort of thing, to be permanent, must be done by
the settlers themselves; but the business here is
THOMAS SIMPSON.
93
tagged together in the most strange and unsatis-
factory manner. For instance the new Fort *
recently erected is already nearly abandoned, and
another new Fort (certainly much needed) to be
built here at the forks, which are now the head
quarters, and the true centre of the settlement
in a geographical and every other point of view.
We have abundant crops and provisions from
the plains this year, money and meat are abun-
dant, and that is all that can be said of the place;
discomfort, isolation, prodigality, idleness, and im-
morality with its concomitant pleasures, complete
the picture. The bulk of our population are of
too roving habits, ever to make farmers, and prefer
hunting the buffalo, or wielding the oar and the
paddle, to remaining at home during the summer
season."
"March 7, 1834.
"This place is a large stone establishment,
that has cost us a good few thousands, and is yet
unfinished: we are making preparations to build
a large granary and provision store this summer,
unless the work be stopped. The Big-wigs at
home are rather cool on the subject, and I do
not wonder at it. You can have no idea of the
* It may be noticed that every establishment, should it con-
sist only of a couple of log huts entirely unprotected, is deno-
minated a "Fort" in Hudson's Bay.
94
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
curious position the Company holds here. The
land of the colony, and the right of the govern-
ment, is Lord Selkirk's, by grant from the Com-
pany; and until 1826, the executors of the late
Earl had a separate establishment, with a gover-
nor of their own; but since then, their affairs
have been managed exclusively by the Hudson's
Bay Company, the Hudson's Bay Factor has been
their governor, and the Hudson's Bay fort their
place of business; but they sell the land at
twelve shillings and sixpence per acre, and pocket
the money, a very cheap and convenient method
you will say. It is true they keep about a score of
policemen in pay; but this force is a mere non-
entity, and the Hudson's Bay Company have
virtually to act as judge, jury, and jailor in his
Lordship's colony. The only good thing I see in
the matter, is, that they give me a salary of twen-
ty-five pounds for keeping their accounts.
"A band of fellows have just arrived for a
squadron of oxen we are to send across Lake
Winipeg, to give a lift to that d-d winter
road, that has been conceiving for the last seven
years, but has as yet brought forth nothing."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
95
CHAPTER VIII.
Extracts from Letters to the Author.-Difficulties with Half-
breed Natives. Intercourse with the Author.-Captain
Back's Arctic Expedition.
"13 June, 1834.
"YOUR confounded express canoe, if there is
one, is so long coming, that we have lost all
patience, and are going about like "roaring lions;"
all our loaded boats are off weeks ago; Mr.
Mc Millan starts in a few hours for Canada; and
Mr. Christie and myself have fixed the fifteenth
as our ultimatum. Surely the cholera has not
carried off the whole of Canada; or, if so, why
did'nt you let us know, that we might all go
down and inherit the land?
"I wrote you so fully in March, that I declare
I haven't a word more, to say; the only news is a
bit of a row we had at the forks the other day,
with Sioux and Saulteaux, which Mr. Mc Millan
will give you an account of, as it is absolutely
too long for anything short of a pamphlet.*
*The following narrative of the affair, not being quite so
long as a pamphlet, I shall quote it entire :
"Some of the incidents connected with the first visit of
96
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"Thanks to our firmness, the poor Sioux got off
safe, in defiance of the treacherous Saulteaux,
with whom they came to make peace.
"The chief is a fine fellow and very shrewd too,
Sioux may be worth narrating, as illustrative of savage pas-
sions. A party of six-and-thirty men, headed by a daring
chief called "The Burning Earth," in consequence of some
disgust which originated across the lines, resolved to brave
the implacable hatred of the Saulteaux, through whose country
they must pass, and pay a visit to the British settlement.
Being obliged to leave their horses on the way, they marched
during the night, and reached undiscovered the woody banks
of the Red River, a short distance above the remotest houses.
There they lay concealed for several days; and, being almost
naked, suffered much from cold and hunger. At length, one
of them venturing out to the bank of the stream, observed
on the opposite side a half-breed, named Baptiste Parisien,
whom he recognized. This man had travelled through the
Sioux territories, and served, it is said, in the United States'
cavalry against the Sacs and Foxes. Parisien instantly in-
vited the stranger to his house; and the latter, plunging into
the river, swam across to him. He told his story, and Pa-
risien generously proceeded with a canoe to ferry over the
whole party.
"He lodged them, collected his friends to protect them
from their enemies, and sent a messenger to the Company's
central Establishment at the forks of the Red and Assini-
boine rivers to report their arrival and desire an interview.
Chief Factor Christie, the Governor of the colony, acceded
to their request; and Parisien conducted them, under a strong
escort, to Fort Garry. There a conference was opened with
great form and gravity. The Sioux declared that the object
of their hazardous journey was to transfer their trade to the
British, and to that end make a lasting peace with the Saul-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
97
e. g., he saw me with a nice new gun in my
hand; and did'nt the fellow take it into his
head to make me a present of his calumet? I
could do no less than give him my gun in return,
teaux.
Mr. Christie replied that they, being American citi-
zens, the Company could not gratify them in the first parti-
cular; but that he was most anxious to promote a cordial
reconciliation between them and their ancient enemies. I was
particularly pleased with the speech of a grim old warrior,
called the 'Black Eagle.' After describing their state of
perpetual hostility with the Saulteaux, 'In our plains,' said he,
'every stock, every stone is taken for an enemy. These fears
can no longer be endured: let the Sioux and the Saulteaux
smoke the calumet of peace; let them hunt the buffalo toge-
ther, and let them henceforth be one nation.' Another orator,
of a more lively mien, concluded the harangue by begging
a drink of firewater (rum); 'for,' said he, 'I love it better
than ever I did my mother's milk.' As second officer, I as-
sisted Mr. Christie during the interview, and officiated at the
same time as French interpreter, that being the language of
the only capable Sioux speaker at the place. At the close of
the 'palaver, the 'Burning Earth' presented Mr. Christie and
myself with ornamented pipes, and I handed him the gun I
carried in return. His people then entertained us in the open
air with their national dances, which are more animated than
most Indian exhibitions of this sort. The Coryphous
humorous little fellow-was really amusing. His place was
on the outside of the ring; and, as he moved round the
dancers, he saluted each with a smart lash of a thong on the
bare back, and immediately after sounded a shrill whistle with
a look of malicious drollery.
a
"All went on pleasantly enough till the evening; when a
large party of Saulteaux, from the River Assiniboine, gal-
loped suddenly into the court. They were completely armed,
H
Uor M
98
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and thus I am fairly outwitted by an Indian;
see what it is to have hedication.'
999
I had the delight of again meeting with my
beloved brother on the last day of the year, 1834.
and breathed fury and revenge, having lost forty of their
relatives by an attack of the Sioux a year or two before. We
instantly stationed a strong guard around the building, and
despatched messengers summoning the police and able-bodied
settlers to the defence of the strangers who had thrown them-
selves on our hospitality. A sufficient number arrived in the
course of the night to prevent any violent attempt being made.
The Saulteaux, continually augmenting, were so irritated at
being repulsed from the windows, through which they sought
to fire upon the unfortunate Sioux within, that they turned
upon some of Parisien's followers, and blood had well nigh
been spilled. The great difficulty now was, to get the
strangers safely home again. We supplied them with pro-
visions, tobacco, and some clothing, and also ammunition for
their defence, in case of their being attacked beyond the
bounds of the colony.
((
They concealed their alarm, put on a resolute counte-
nance, sung their death-song; and the chief, unsheathing his
sabre, smote the bare shoulders of his followers with the flat
side of the blade.
"After this ceremony, they declared their readiness to
depart, and were led out between two lines of the police and
the settlers to the boats which were in readiness to convey
them across the river.
"The Saulteaux, who were on the watch, now endeavoured
to press forward, but were driven back, and we disarmed a
great many of them. Parisien and his half-breeds undertook
to conduct the Sioux safely out into the open plains, where
they might set their bush-fighting foe at defiance. The party
had no sooner crossed the river, than a number of the Saul-
Mчou
THOMAS SIMPSON.
99
Dissatisfied with the prospect which I saw
before me, of a monotonous winter's residence
at Moose Factory, (southern extremity of Hud-
son's Bay,) I took my foot in my hand,' started
66
teaux threw themselves into their canoes on the Assiniboine
a little distance above, with the view to intercept their retreat.
Observing this manœuvre, I ran towards them, followed
by Mr. M'Kinlay and a few others; and, levelling our guns.
at the men in the canoes, ordered them to turn back. They
angrily complied; when the principal man, seeing that we
were but a handful, began to vent threats against us: but a
party opportunely riding up to our assistance, we carried the
old fellow with us to the Establishment, and his followers
dispersed.
tu
"Parisien sent us word next day that though some ambus-
cades were laid, he had seen the Sioux clear of the woods,
after which they had little difficulty in returning to their own
country about Lac Travers.
"I regret to add that this gallant fellow was, three years
afterwards, shot through the heart in the mêlée of a buffalo
hunt.
"On the second occasion the Sioux came in double num-
bers, better armed, and led by Ulāněta, the greatest chief
of their whole nation. He was distinguished by a sort of
coronet, or cap of feathers, and a necklace of grizzly bears'
claws, with the unromantic addition of a pair of green spec-
tacles! He is a tall elderly man, with a mild, almost a
benignant, expression of countenance. Yet he is said to be
one of the fiercest warriors in all the plains. He was obeyed
with respect; and some of his people seemed expressly ap-
pointed to maintain order amongst the rest. The whole party
wore painted buffalo robes. They were, as before, hospitably
received, and dismissed with gifts, but under strict injunctions
not to repeat their troublesome and perilous visits."
H 2
100
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
from that place in October, and reached Red
River on the 31st of December, after a journey
of no little hazard, fatigue, and privation.
I found the colony in high excitement. Rapid
increase of numbers, from a continual influx of
retired servants with their native families, had
caused the half-breed class of the population, to
become mutinous and insolent. This class has
ever entertained a deep hatred against the whites,
a feeling in which the pure aborigines of but
very few tribes participate.
This rancorous feeling, at all times existent,
had recently been roused to increased bitterness,
by some trivial changes in the mode of transact-
ing business; and there wanted only a slight
cause to call it into action.
That cause had been found two days before I
arrived. A young Canadian, half-breed, had come
half drunk into my brother's office, and insisted
upon having money for his holiday diversions.
He had, already, received in advance a considera-
ble part of his pay for the succeeding summer,
and was refused any further advances. The fel-
low, who had been my brother's voyaging servant,
grew insolent; he was ordered out; refused to
obey, and my brother proceeded to eject him ;
he resisted, and got the worst of the scuffle,
coming off with a black eye and a bloody nose.
Maou
THOMAS SIMPSON.
101
!
This very trivial affair was magnified into a
class affront, the half-breeds assembled in great
numbers, and in high excitement. Even those
of the colonists, who had only a sixteenth part
of Indian blood in their veins, some of them
educated in the civilized world, linked them-
selves with the Canadian Bois Brûlés.* The
storm was not met with spirit and promptitude
on the part of Governor Simpson. Instead of
putting on a bold front, which would soon have
cowed these blusterers, he entered into negotia-
tion with them-receiving their deputies and
sending missions to their meetings. At these
nocturnal meetings, they danced the war dance
of their maternal ancestors, in order to keep
their dastardly spirits up to the mark of bully-
ing and threatening.
Even the demand made by them, that my
brother should expiate his imputed or imagined
offence by receiving a public flogging, could not
rouse this vacillating plausible man, to a resolu-
tion of defiance, which every one knew might,
with the utmost safety, have been given. His
only step was a tampering negotiation with a
neighbouring Indian chief, which being an at-
tempt to set class against class, excited the half-
* A Canadian term for persons with any of the Indian
blood in their veins.
102
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
breeds still more; and finally he succumbed so
much to their menaces, as to give them a bar-
rel of rum, and a sum of money as an expia-
tion.* He moreover intimated his intention of
removing my brother from the colony; but my
brother at once stated, that if he was removed
from his position under such circumstances, it
would be a censure upon his conduct; his con-
duct had been such as he conceived did not ex-
pose him to reprehension; and if the intention
intimated were persevered in, he should at once
*That the Bois Brûlés did not fail to profit by this ac-
knowledgment of their strength, may be judged from the
following extract from my brother's letter of August, 1836:
"Our York trip men (Red River half-breeds) mutinied at
Norway House, and came on here instead of returning to the
Factory; but the priests and the public shamed them out of
their conduct, (a poor species of law, you will say,) and they
all started again yesterday to fulfil their duty.
"It appears that about half of the men took an oath on
the way up, that they would not return to York; and the
story goes, that the oath was sworn round a very large cask
of the Bishop's sacramental wines, which formed part of their
cargo, and had received many curses at each portage as they
came along. This little circumstance, almost laughable as
it may appear, has had an excellent effect in rousing the anger
of the priests against their rebellious and sacrilegious parish-
ioners, whom they lectured most severely from the pulpit on
the subject, absolved them from their rash and guilty vow;
and, aided by the public voice and Mr. Christie's persuasions
and threats, so worked upon them, that they became quite
ashamed of their behaviour."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
103
retire from the service. This was an alternative
shrunk from.
On my arrival, my brother explained to me
the position of affairs: he told me, that the half-
breeds had no animosity personally towards him-
self; but had taken up this case as a conve-
nient subject on which to pick a quarrel; that
he thought an attempt at his assassination
not unlikely as some of the class would think
but little of taking his life, knowing that blood
once spilt, the savage feelings of their fellows
would be excited beyond controul-that they
would, in fact, execute what they had threatened
(and some say sworn to), "that the plains of Red
River will be once more red with the blood of
white men."
He was determined not to flinch from his posi-
tion or his duties on that account; but he felt
bitterly his unprotected position during the night,
when he slept distant from any other person of
the establishment, without any guard but his
favourite pointer -as the policy of concession
went so far as to prevent any preparations for
self-defence. This was our first topic, after a
separation of nearly five years. We slept in the
same room; securely barricaded the doors; borrow-
ed, after nightfall, a few arms from the other mem-
bers of the establishment; and, after some hours
104
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of intercourse, such only as one blessed with such
a friend and brother as I had, can enjoy-lay
down to rest, determined at least to sell our
lives dearly.
To the feeling engendered in the minds of the
half-breeds by this affair, I attribute my bro-
ther's melancholy and premature death; for they
have a revengeful unforgiving spirit, the "odium
in longum jaciens," attributed to one of the worst
characters of antiquity, and, under the excite-
ment of class or personal animosity, will scruple
at no wickedness that can with impunity be
committed; while they will, with rare excep-
tions, shrink from any attack exposing them-
selves to danger.
I remained with my brother but ten days,
having again to don my snow-shoes for a re-
turn promenade of one thousand four hundred
miles; but this brief period of renewed associa-
tion sufficed to raise in our breasts feelings of
deeper love, truer appreciation, than had marked
our previous intercourse. His subsequent letters
to me, some of which I shall give in the sequel,
are couched in terms of affection, which, to many
will appear romantic, but which were the genuine
outpourings of a heart overflowing with love,
tenderness, and every manly virtue.*
* The following passage beautifully describes this feeling :
THOMAS SIMPSON.
105
Of my own feelings it would be obtrusive to
say much. I loved him as David loved Jona-
than — his death inflicted on me a grief which
time only aggravates.
on
We parted, alas! never to meet again
the 11th of January, 1835, mutually comforting
each other with the assurance, that this separa-
tion would not be so long as the previous one
had been.
In 1836, he was selected for the task of Arctic
Discovery. Previous, however, to entering upon
any detail of his services in this field, it will
be necessary to give a rapid review of the pro-
gress of exploration of the Northern parts of
America, and of the different expeditions which
had visited the Arctic Coast of that continent,
which I do at some length in the following
chapter, with the freedom that a traveller in the
"It is, indeed, inexpressibly delightful, after the cool and re-
served demeanour I must assume in public, thus to unbosom
myself to my dear, my only brother. It is distance and sepa-
ration alone that can make us sensible of what value is he to
whom every thought may be disclosed, with an assurance not
only of confidence, but of responsive emotion. I pity and
scorn the frigid hearts that are incapable of such things."
Again : "I have found many ostensible friends in this coun-
try; but my naturally warm feelings have been sufficiently
chilled and tutored to distrust the friendship of the world,
(what is it at all compared with the love we bear each other?)
and to base my hopes solely on conscious rectitude."
106
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
same region may safely assume, but with an
earnest attempt at impartiality.
It may be remarked as a singular circumstance
that Arctic Discovery, for which it would appear
as if my brother had trained himself by anti-
cipation, and in which he was so enthusiastic
when once he had entered upon it, had not excited
his interest for many years after he went to Ame-
rica. I do not recollect of his ever expressing
an opinion or wish on the subject; and on re-
ferring to his letters to me, in which his every
thought and feeling are chronicled, I find refe-
rence but twice to the expedition of Captain
Back; and these references are almost entirely
to its influence on the affairs of the Company.
"19th June, 1833.
"Since our arrival here, I have been very busy,
engaging men and assisting in the arrangements
for Captain Back's expedition. These are now
nearly completed, and the Captain may be off
as soon as he has written his letters. He seems
a very easy affable man; deficient, I should say,
in that commanding manner with the people so
necessary in this savage country.
From my
soul I wish them every success in the generous
and humane objects of the expedition; but can-
not venture an opinion upon its probable result."
·
THOMAS SIMPSON.
107
"7th March, 1834.
"This packet conveys the news of Captain
Back's discoveries, which are greater than any
of us in the North anticipated. All doubted
the existence of Great Fish River; but he last
fall went down that stream to within one hun-
dred and nine miles of the Arctic Ocean. His
canoe guide, (Dejarlois,) who brought his des-
patches, was here this morning, and gave me a
long account of the route. Their head quarters
this winter, are at Fort Reliance, eastern ex-
tremity of Great Slave Lake, whence the Cap-
tain last fall ascended a river, passed several
lakes with intermediate portages at the height
of land, and fell upon the southern branch of
the river he was in search of. Here it was
small and rapidous; but being joined by a larger
stream flowing from the westward out of Rum
Lake, (Lake Contwoyto of Hearne,) it became
a noble river, which the advanced season alone
prevented him from exploring to its outlet. The
canoe party then returned, and found Dr. King
and Chief Trader Alex. R. Mc Leod, who had
come on with the boats and supplies, comforta-
bly established at Fort Reliance.
CC
Captain Ross's return will, no doubt, act as
a damper to Back's ardour; but still he has
work enough left him for next summer; and in
+4
108
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
1835, I suppose he will retrace his steps to
England for his knighthood.
"It is really a shame to the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, that they knew nothing of this river till
Back came to find it for them. It will now be-
come, I should hope, the channel by which the
Company may draw out the riches of the large
Peninsula, “Boothia," discovered by Captain Ross,
and described by him as abounding in furs."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
109
CHAPTER IX.
Progress of Exploration of the Northern Parts of America-
Summary of Journeys to the Arctic Coast of America, viz.,
Hearne's to the Mouth of the Coppermine River Mac-
kenzie's Descent to the Arctic Ocean Franklin's First
Expedition- Franklin's Second Expedition-Ross's Expe-
dition to Prince Regent's Inlet Back's Expedition in
Search of Ross Back's intended Survey from Wager
River-King's contemplated Expedition- What had been
done, and what remained to be done.
THE first internal explorers of the vast region
of country forming the northern portion of the
American continent were traders from Canada,
while it was yet in the possession of France.
Soon after the first colonization of that pro-
vince, hardy and daring individuals, lured by the
great gains to be derived from traffic with the
natives, and by the unbridled licence which
in such a country they could practise with im-
punity, penetrated for hundreds of miles into the
wilderness, then, as now, known in Canada as
"the Indian country."
+
110
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
The exploits of these men are unchronicled;
no Washington Irving has narrated them. In-
trinsically, they possess infinitely more of romantic
interest than belongs to the proceedings of the ill-
selected conductors of the Astorian Enterprise,
to which that eloquent writer has given an en-
during, but by no means merited, celebrity.
In small parties, they penetrated among hos-
tile Indians, without any previous knowledge
of their country or character. Their dangers
were often imminent, their disasters not unfre-
quent, and their privations, arising alike from
the nature of the country they entered upon,
and their own careless improvidence, great be-
yond description.
Though they were illiterate men, their charts
of the country in which they traded were of
extraordinary accuracy.*
The French Canadian Government, which,
from policy and inclination, took much interest
in the welfare of the Indian tribes, seeing the
* A few years ago, an Expedition, under the command of
English engineer officers, was sent by the Canadian Executive
to explore the interior country between the Ottawa and St.
Maurice rivers. Rough charts, found in the archives at
Quebec, drawn nearly two hundred years before by
"Cou-
reurs du bois," were found to correspond in a most extra-
ordinary degree with the positions ascertained by astronomical
observation.
"
THOMAS SIMPSON.
111
evils that arose from the unrestrained proceed-
ings of these wild adventurers, took steps to
put the trade on a sounder footing, by prevent-
ing any from entering upon it, except those
furnished with Government licences. Religious
bodies, also, were encouraged by grants and
privileges from the kings of France to enter
upon the great work of converting and civil-
izing the Indians; and missionaries, earnest as
those of the Jesuit body have ever been for
the propagation of the faith, penetrated in ad-
vance of the traders, enduring with patience
and resignation privations and dangers even
greater than those to which they exposed them-
selves. The records of the Jesuit College,
now in the archives of the Government of Ca-
nada, (its property having been confiscated and
the order broken up, previous to the conquest
by Britain,) contain narratives of these enthu-
siastic men which may yet afford a rich mine
of "truth stranger than fiction."
Canadian traders had, previous to the con-
quest, ascended the St. Lawrence and Ottawa
rivers to their sources, and had formed establish-
ments on the Great Lakes. From the north-
western end of Lake Superior, they threaded
the intricate communication which leads by
Lakes, Streams, and Portages, to Lake Winipeg,
112
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
+
and from thence penetrated some distance up
the Saskatchewan river the Misisippi of the
North.
Their most distant establishment was on the
banks of that river in lat. 53°, long. 103°.
This place was situated at a distance of up-
wards of two thousand miles from the colonized
part of Canada, the route to it was through a
country occupied by numerous savage tribes,
where the means of subsistence were scanty, and
the navigation unfit for any other craft than
frail birch-bark canoes yet we have evidence
that, at these distant establishments, conside-
rable improvements were effected; that agri-
culture was carried on, and even wheel carriages
used; in fact, that they then possessed fully as
many of the attendants of civilization as they
do now, after the lapse of a century.
*
These enterprises were, in a great measure,
suspended by the struggle which ended in the
conquest by Great Britain of Canada; and, for
some years after the treaty, by which that pro-
vince was annexed to the British crown, the
fur trade, and consequent exploration of the In-
dian country, was almost entirely neglected.
It was not till 1767 that a party, headed by
* The present establishment is within one hundred miles
of the position of the old French establishment.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
113
a British subject, again penetrated to the Sas-
katchewan; but the rich rewards which he
won by his adventure attracted others to the
field.
In 1775, the Misinipi, or English River, was
visited by Mr. Joseph Frobisher. In 1776, that
gentleman's brother penetrated to Isle à la Crosse
(lat. 55° 26'′).
Mr. Pond, in 1778, advanced three hundred
miles further into this terra incognita, and esta-
blished himself within thirty miles of the Atha-
basca Lake.
In 1781, a permanent establishment was
formed at the same point.
These explorations were the result of the in-
dividual enterprise of traders from Canada. They
were prompted solely by the desire for gain.
The adventurers who conducted them had no
scientific knowledge or acquirements; and their
proceedings were adopted solely on the inform-
ation which their residence among the Indians
enabled them to obtain regarding still more dis-
tant countries yet unvisited.
In 1783, the leading individuals concerned in
this commerce, foreseeing that rivalry was in-
jurious to the interest of all; and rightly judg-
ing that in such enterprises there was a neces-
sity for united action, formed themselves into an
I
114
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
association under the title of "The North-West
Company."
This energetic body continued in existence for
thirty-eight years, during the greater part of
which period it monopolized the fur trade of
the interior parts of North America-extending
its establishments to the Arctic Circle and Pa-
cific Ocean.
Flushed with success, it founded trading posts
even on the coast of Hudson's Bay. The Hudson's
Bay Company, although armed with a chartered
right to the exclusive right of trade with the
Indians, not only along that coast, but over all
the countries whose waters fall into Hudson's
Bay, (a right which includes the greater part of
the Indian country,) confined its trading stations
almost entirely to the coast. In 1774, more
than a century after the date of its charter, its
furthest advance was but four hundred and fifty
miles inland, (its Canadian rivals receiving their
annual supplies from points more than two thou-
sand miles distant,) and it was not till nearly
thirty years afterwards that it adopted the policy
of vigorously contesting the trade with them.
After a contest, to which I have already ad-
verted, which was marked by great bitterness of
feeling, considerable excitement, much menace,
and some violence and loss of life, a coalition of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
115
1
the stocks of both Companies, (the chartered
privileges of one being thrown into the scale,)
was effected in 1821.
HEARNE'S JOURNEY TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN.
THE first European who penetrated through
the northern parts of America to the Arctic
Ocean, was Mr. Samuel Hearne, an officer of
the Hudson's Bay Company.
The report of the Northern Indians, who, pre-
viously to the establishment of the Canadian
traders in the Athabasca country, annually car-
ried their furs to Churchill, on Hudson's Bay-
had caused the governor of that establishment
to believe in the existence of a fine river at no
very great distance, the course of which was
to the northward, and on the banks of which
large quantities of copper, in almost a pure state,
were to be found.
On representing this to the Hudson's Bay
Company, he was authorized to send an officer
on a visit of exploration to this promising field.
Mr. Samuel Hearne was the officer selected
for this service. He seems to have been well
qualified in physical capability of enduring fa-
tigue and privation for such an enterprise; but
his astronomical knowledge extended no further
than to the mechanical operation of "taking the
1 2
116
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
sun" for the latitude. This he could do, it may
be presumed, correctly, when he was furnished
with a good instrument; but his Hadley's quad-
rant, "with a bubble attached to it for an hori-
zon, and made by Daniel Scatlif, of Wapping,"
was broken before he had advanced far; and
though he returned and procured from the estab-
lishment "an old Elton quadrant, which had been
upwards of thirty years at the fort," he might as
well have been without this superannuated in-
strument for his observations are, in some cases,
nearly five degrees wrong.
It may be fairly doubted whether these were
not intentional errors. He went a great way:
was in conscience obliged to give an unfavora-
ble report to his employers of the result of his
mission, and may perhaps have thought, that, ad-
ding" a handful of degrees" to his journey, could
do no harm to others, whatever good it might
do to himself.
These errors have been fully proved and ex-
posed by subsequent explorers; and, indeed, were
more than suspected by parties under whose no-
tice his journal came before it was published.
But, nothing daunted by their remarks, he pub-
lished his narrative to the world, and sticks fast.
to his statement, that he found the mouth of the
Coppermine River in lat 71°. 54.'
THOMAS SIMPSON.
117
His journal is, certainly, constructed as if he
were himself fully aware of this mis-statement in
latitude, (longitudes, of course, could not have
been expected from him,) and wished, by a con-
fused and disjointed narrative, to bewilder his
reader, so that he could in no ways correct him
by an approximated estimate of his courses and
distances.
It is certain, however, that he did reach the
mouth of the Coppermine River, and that in
attaining to and returning from that point, he
suffered much fatigue and privation. A short
sketch of his proceedings may not be uninter-
esting.
He took his departure from Churchill, (the
most northern establishment on the shores of
Hudson's Bay,) on the 6th of November 1769; his
immediate companions being two Orkney men,
and two Indians; while "Captain Chawchinchaw,*
his Lieutenant Nabyah,* and six or eight north-
ern Indians had particular orders to conduct him,
provide for him, and assist him in everything
until he reached the borders of the Athapuscow
Indians' country, where Captain Motonabee was
to meet him in the spring of 1770, in order
,
* Indian Leaders.-It was the custom of the Hudson's Bay
Traders to give such a laced coat, and call him "Captain " in
compliment.
118
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
to conduct him to a river represented by the
Indians to abound with copper ore, animals of
the fur kind, &c., and which is said to be so
far to the northward, that in the middle of the
summer, the sun does not set, and is supposed
by the Indians to empty itself into some ocean."
Captain Chawchinchaw proved a very broken
reed whereon to lean for support and assistance.
Ere they had been three weeks absent, Hearne
sorrowfully chronicles, "that he had not the
prosperity of the undertaking at heart;" and
this want of cordiality exhibited itself plainly
in his refusing to aid Hearne and his compa-
nions in the labour of carrying their own ammuni-
tion, articles for trade and clothing, and in leaving
them to depend entirely on their own exertions
for a supply of provisions. Finding that this
kind of treatment would not rid him of his per-
severing companion, he caused some of his In-
dians to desert in the night with the greater
part of the traveller's ammunition, &c. Of the
perpetration of this theft, he, of course, pleaded
entire ignorance; but he told Mr. Hearne, that
it must necessarily, put an end to his further
proceeding in his company, and "he and his
crew packed up their awls on the 30th of Novem-
ber, and set out towards the south-west, making
the woods ring with their laughter, and left us
THOMAS SIMPSON.
119
to consider of our unhappy situation, near two
hundred miles from Prince of Wales' Fort."
On Hearne's return, he fell in with Indians
from whom he procured supplies of provisions,
and he got safely back to Churchill on the 12th
of December, to "his own great mortification, and
the no small surprise of the Governor, who had
placed great confidence in the abilities and con-
duct of Chawchinchaw."
Shortly after his return, an Indian called
Connequesse, informed him, that he had been
very near the river he was engaged to go in
search of. This was an inducement to embark
again on the enterprise; and little daunted by
Captain Chawchinchaw's misconduct, Hearne
again confided himself to Indian guidance, set-
ting out on the 23rd of February, 1770, unac-
companied by a single European.
Striking across to the Seal River, they fol-
lowed its course for several days, and travelling
at the slow rate which Indians always adopt
when they are in a country where provisions are
abundant, they finally took up their quarters
for the spring on the lake, forming the reser-
voirs of that stream; the guide declaring that
it was yet too cold to walk on the barren grounds,
and that the woods stretched west-south-west.
Their stay here was marked by the usual vicis-
}
120
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
situdes of Indian house-keeping, sometimes too
much-seldom just enough-frequently too little
and often none at all.
Again resuming their route on the 23rd of
May, they kept to the northward: the march was
toilsome in the extreme, for the snow was deep
yet soft, and their luggage heavy to haul, and still
more so to carry on the back. Hearne often suf-
fered extremely from hunger-his guide was a per-
fect niggard of his provisions, and though he had
a snug little tent he never asked his European
charge to put his head into it. The rain was
often heavy-the difficulty of lighting fires great;
and so when they did kill an animal, they ge-
nerally ate a great part of it raw. Raw venison
or raw fish, Mr. Hearne could manage with some
little satisfaction; but he reports the flesh of the
Musk Ox as not only coarse and tough, but
smelling and tasting so strong of musk, as to be
very disagreeable—when raw!
{
On the 30th of June, they reached Yath Kyed
Lake, near Chesterfield Inlet, and thence pro-
ceeded leisurely to the north-west. Deer were
plentiful; his guide was in no hurry; and on
being taken to task for not advancing quicker,
he told our traveller that he had no design to
take him to Coppermine River that summer,
but intended to take him there the next; an
THOMAS SIMPSON.
121
unexpected piece of information which was re-
ceived with much composure. Indeed, Hearne
seems to have had rather a liking for this
kind of life; and while provisions are abund-
ant, never complains of delay. The Deer here
were so numerous, that though there were up-
wards of six hundred Indians collected together
they all rioted in abundance.
By the 12th of August, they had advanced to
lat. 63.º 10.' north; and the distances given, and
position in longitude stated, (from Churchill,)
would indicate that they were but one hun-
dred miles distant from Artillery Lake of Cap-
tain Back. There, an unfortunate accident be-
fel our traveller: while eating his dinner, a sud-
den gust of wind blew down his quadrant, and
"as the ground was very stony, the bubble, the
sight vane and vernier were entirely broke to
pieces, which rendered the instrument useless."
Modern astronomers would be somewhat puzzled
by the complex structure of this instrument.
Its loss determined his return to Churchill,
which was attended with as much difficulty and
vicissitude as the advance. It was the 25th
of November, before Mr. Hearne reached that
place, after having been absent eight months
and twenty-two days on a fruitless, or at least
an unsuccessful, expedition.
:
122
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Two miscarriages did not daunt him—he volun-
teered to undertake a third expedition, and his
offer was readily accepted, " as his abilities and
approved courage," (so he writes,) "in persevering
under difficulties, were thought no-ways inferior
to the task."
He entered upon this journey under more fa-
vourable auspices; for he placed himself under
the conduct of Matonabee, a leader of some im-
portance among the Northern Indians, who pur-
posed a journey-ostensibly for the purposes of
trade, but really for the purpose of making war
on the Esquimaux to the river of which
Hearne was instructed to make a survey.
On the 7th of December, 1770, the journey was
begun. Mr. Hearne being unaccompanied by
either European or home-guard Indian, in fact,
entirely dependent on the good faith of Ma-
tonabee; and it may be justly said, that the
confidence was not abused.
Their route lay through the barren grounds
to North-lined Lake, (called by Hearne Island
Lake,) which they reached on the 30th of Decem-
ber. Striking west from it, they travelled at a
very easy rate; and having arrived, on the 16th
of January, (1771,) among deer, they remained for
several days drying and preparing provisions, of
which Matonabee seems to have been, compara-
tively, a careful purveyor.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
123
Continuing their journey on the 22nd, on the
6th of February they crossed the Cathawhachaga
River; deer were too abundant for their rapid
advance; it was the 21st before they reached
Theyeholekyed Lake. Proceeding slowly to the
southward, they took up their quarters on the 8th
of April at Lake Thleweyazazeth; and knowing
that on the banks of the river flowing out of it
was the best point at which birch wood for
tent-poles and sledges, and birch-bark for small
canoes could be obtained, they tarried for the
purpose of providing these necessaries.
Thence striking across to Clowey, they met a
large number of Indians; and here a combination
was formed by the more active and daring of
the men, to go to the Coppermine River for the
purpose of attacking the Esquimaux.* Mr.
Hearne endeavoured to dissuade them from this
intention, but he had no influence, and finding
that they were firmly bent on the enterprise, he
made no scruple about accompanying them.
They, accordingly, left all the women, children,
dogs, heavy baggage, and other incumbrances,
* "An Esquimaux hunt" has always been a favourite di-
version among the Border Indians. A decrepit Indian,
who acted as cook at a station where I resided, often told me
of the pleasure he enjoyed when an active youth in going on
these expeditions.
124
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and on the 1st of June started northward, and
travelled with great speed. Whether Mr. Hearne
left his quadrant among the other incumbrances
he does not mention; but his subsequent state-
ments of latitude are quite erroneous, and his
narrative very confused. He states himself to
have been, on the 16th of June, in lat. 67° 30′,
(nearly that of the mouth of the Coppermine).
He places himself on the 1st of July in lat. 68°
46', (the position of Victoria and Wollaston lands
in the Arctic Ocean). On the 13th of July, he
reached the Coppermine River at about forty
miles from its mouth; and he expresses his sur-
prise and disappointment at finding it scarcely
navigable for an Indian canoe, instead of accord-
ing with the Indians' description of it-a fine
river, navigable for vessels.
He, however, made a survey of it to its mouth,
which he places in lat. 71° 54'. He acknow-
ledges that he had no observation here; but states
his confidence that, from the extraordinary care
he took in observing the courses and distances
from his last point of observation, the accuracy
of latitude given may be depended upon within
twenty miles at the utmost. At all events he
saw before him the Great Arctic Ocean, a sight
never before seen by European!
The search after copper was no less a disap-
1
THOMAS SIMPSON.
125
pointment than the shallowness of the river.
From Indian report he had been led to anticipate
arriving at "hills entirely composed of that metal,
all in handy lumps like a heap of pebbles;" but
he found that he could collect even specimens
with much difficulty. He secured one very fine
one, a piece of pure copper, weighing about four
pounds. His cursory search by no means dis-
proves the existence of large quantities of pure
copper in this distant region-a source of wealth
could it be arrived at. Nor is it impossible that
ere this century has passed, an organized system
of internal communication, such as that which
traverses Northern Asia, may place this valuable
natural deposit within the reach of commerce.
Of the butchery committed by his companions
on the poor Esquimaux at the Bloody Fall, I
abstain from any recital. Mr. Hearne was a
close and wonderfully unconcerned spectator of
this most diabolical massacre, and describes it
with painful circumstantiality.
Their return was by a more westerly route,
though the obscurity of the narrative makes it
difficult to trace the precise course followed.
On the 3rd of September they were at Point
Lake—a part of the country visited subsequently
by Franklin's Expedition. On the 24th of Decem-
ber they reached the Great Slave Lake. (Hearne
126
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
calls it the great Athapascow Lake.) Crossing
it they proceeded some distance up the Slave
River, and then struck off to the eastward. On
the 28th of April they were at Thleweyazazeth,
the place where they had prepared their birch-
work twelve months before. And on the 29th of
June, 1772, our traveller arrived in good health
at Churchill, after having been absent eighteen
months and twenty-three days, during which long
period he had lived with the Indians-a mode
of life to which it is wonderful how soon a Euro-
pean becomes reconciled.
That he pursued his object with pertina-
cious perseverance, and that he fully accom-
plished it, cannot be doubted; but his journey
gave but very little correct knowledge of the
geography of Northern America.
SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE'S DESCENT TO
THE ARCTIC OCEAN.
MR. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, (subsequently
for his American discoveries created Sir Alex-
ander,) after being for a few years one of the
conductors of an independent fur-trading asso-
ciation, became, in 1787, an acting partner of
the North-west Company, and was immediately
appointed to the management of its affairs in
THOMAS SIMPSON.
127
Athabasca, the most northern division of country
to which its trade extended.
His winter residence during 1788-9, was Fort
Chipewyan, on Athabasca Lake, which may be
termed the point of departure of every expedi-
tion which has yet been set on foot for Arctic
discovery, with the single exception of the pre-
ceding bold attempt of Hearne. A still more
northern establishment had been formed at Great
Slave Lake.
Mr. Mackenzie, doubtless, obtained from the
Indians who traded there and at Fort Chipewyan,
a knowledge of the existence of a large river,
flowing out of the Slave Lake; and being, he
writes, "endowed by Nature with an inquisitive
mind and an enterprising spirit, possessing also
a constitution and power of body equal to the
most arduous undertaking, and being familiar
with toilsome exertions, he not only contem-
plated the practicability of penetrating across the
continent of America, but was confident in the
qualifications as he was animated by the desire
to undertake this perilous enterprise; and the
wishes of his particular friends and commercial
associates contributed to quicken the execution
of this favourite project of his own ambi-
tion."
It would appear from his narrative, that he
128
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
anticipated that the river flowing out of Great
Slave Lake emptied itself into the Pacific Ocean;
consequently he hoped by descending it to tra-
verse the American continent.
He was disappointed in this expectation; for
the noble river which he descended, and which
bears his name, conducted him to the Arctic
Ocean; but it is not surprising that he should
have entertained such an expectation, for the
river flows into Slave Lake from the west;
and as he had no means of ascertaining its
longitude, he might easily have placed it nearer
the north-west coast of America than subse-
quent observations have proved it to be; more-
over, Hearne placed the Arctic Sea five degrees
further north than it really is, which might have
deterred Mackenzie from endeavouring to reach
it.
Mr. Mackenzie started on the 3rd of June,
1789, on his voyage from Fort Chipewyan, in a
bark canoe manned by five men, two of whom
were accompanied by their wives. He had also
in company a smaller canoe, containing an enter-
prising chief of the Chipewyan tribe, his two
wives, and two Indians.
Descending the Slave River, he reached Great
Slave Lake on the 9th of June, and found it still
partially covered with ice. This caused them
THOMAS SIMPSON.
129
some detention, and its disruption was followed
by strong winds, causing a heavy swell, which
made the coasting of the lake a matter of no
small risk and difficulty. The Indian guide whom
he had employed was, also, but imperfectly ac-
quainted with the situation of the river. From a
combination of these causes, he did not com-
mence his descent of the "Mackenzie River," till
the 29th of June.
Once embarked on this noble stream—which
has a course, unbroken by rapid or fall, of nearly
eight hundred miles-the voyage was compara-
tively "plain sailing."
It is true the Indians, whom he saw on its
banks, gave disheartening accounts of the im-
mense distance at which lay the "Great Lake,"
and described with the fluency and circumstan-
tiality in which no one can excel an Indian
alarmist, (and out of their own immediate circle,
all is alarm,) the monsters of horrid shape and
destructive powers, whom he would encounter;
nay, exaggerated into frightful falls and rapids
slight velocities in current, which their own small
canoes descended in safety. But all this had
little effect upon a man of such iron nerves as
Mackenzie. He generally brought those palavers
to a conclusion, by causing, partly by violence,
partly by persuasion, one of the alarmists to
K
130
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
embark as guide of the party, until it should
reach some other tribe.
He advanced so rapidly down this river, that,
on the 10th July, he arrived at deserted Esqui-
maux encampments. On the 12th, he came to
a large lake, which the Indians knew nothing
about, further than that in it the Esquimaux
killed large fishes. It was the Arctic Ocean he
had reached!
Next day, those large fishes, which proved to
be whales, were seen disporting themselves, and
Mackenzie, seized with a sudden penchant for
making war upon the finny monsters, ordered
his canoe out in pursuit of them; but, like
his countryman, Hector Macintyre, in his at-
tack on the Phoca,* he gained little by this
movement. Having ventured beyond the islands
he was overtaken by a squall, and regained
Whale Island with much difficulty. Here he
observed a rise of eighteen inches in the tide,
but does not state whether he found the water
salt or not. Subsequent expeditions, however,
fully proved that he was quite correct in stating,
that he had landed on an island in the Arctic
Ocean.
His return was performed with the same ease
and comparative absence of privation and risk,
* See "The Antiquary."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
131
which marked his descent. On the 16th of July
he commenced his homeward voyage. On the
2nd of August, he passed the confluence of the
Great Bear Lake River, always inquiring of
the Indians as he advanced for the great river
flowing from the westward, which he supposed
would lead him to the vicinity of Norton Sound
(North Pacific coast).
1
On the 13th, he passed the River aux Liards,
which did not attract his attention as likely to
lead to the westward.* On the 22nd, he re-
entered Great Slave Lake; and, in coasting it,
he seems to have run greater risks than he had
before done on his voyage. On one occasion,
he made a traverse from point to point of twenty-
four miles, a matter of much risk with a bark
canoe in a lake so subject to storms.
On the 3rd of September, he commenced the
ascent of the Slave River, and on the 12th reach-
ed his wintering quarters at Fort Chipewyan,
after a journey, the result of which was highly
important; while it was so conducted that no
privations, fatigues, or dangers, other than those
ever incident to travels in this hyperborean
* This is easily accounted for by the fact of its having a
course, due north, for two hundred and fifty miles before its
confluence with the Mackenzie.
K 2
132
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
region—were undergone by himself, his men, or
their adventurous spouses, who so gallantly ac-
companied them.
Mr. Mackenzie afterwards made a journey
across the continent, and reached the Pacific
coast in lat. 52. This enterprise exposed him
to far greater dangers, fatigues, and privations,
than marked his descent to the Arctic Ocean;
but he successfully surmounted them all. He
afterwards took a leading part for several years
in the fur trade, and, returning home, married,
in a green old age, a young lady connected with
our family. He was himself, a native of the
Northern Highlands, and a marked similarity in
many points of character, may be traced between
him and my brother.
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
THE subject of Discovery on the Arctic coast of
America, upon which, as we have seen, a dim light
had been thrown by expeditions undertaken by
two officers of the trading Companies, was, after
the lapse of thirty years, taken up by the British
Government.
In this interval, indeed, some further know-
ledge had been acquired by the progress to the
north of the trading establishments which were
now extended to the Mackenzie River.
1
THOMAS SIMPSON.
133
The first Government expedition to survey the
northern coast of America was organized in 1819,
under the command of Lieut. (now Sir John)
Franklin; an expedition by sea being at the
same time sent out under the command of Lieu-
tenant (now Sir Edward) Parry.
66
The objects of the Arctic Land Expedition are
thus detailed in Franklin's published narrative:
My instructions in substance informed me, that
the main object of the expedition was that of
determining the latitudes and longitudes of the
northern coast of North America, and the trend-
ing of the coast from the mouth of the Copper-
mine River to the eastern extremity of that
continent. It was left for me to determine,
according to circumstances, whether it might
be more advisable to proceed at once, directly to
the Northward till I arrived at the sea coast, and
proceed westerly towards the Coppermine River,
and from thence easterly till I should arrive at
the eastern extremity of that Continent. That,
as another principal object of the expedition was
to amend the very defective geography of the
northern part of North America, I was to be
very careful to ascertain correctly the latitude
and longitude of every remarkable spot upon our
route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, head-
lands, &c., that might occur along the northern
134
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
shore of North America. That, in proceeding
along the coast, I should erect conspicuous marks
at places where ships might enter, or to which a
boat could be sent; and to deposit information
as to the nature of the coast for the use of
Lieutenant Parry.
"I was instructed on my arrival at or near the
mouth of the Coppermine River, to make every
inquiry as to the situation of the spot from
whence the copper had been brought down by the
Indians to the Hudson's Bay establishment; and
to visit and explore the place in question, in
order that Doctor Richardson might be enabled
to make such observations as might be useful in
a commercial point of view, or interesting to the
Science of Mineralogy."
►
The attempt to carry out those instructions
exposed the officers who were appointed to the
management of the expedition, and the men
under their command, to trials and privations
such as never have been exceeded, seldom, if
ever, equalled.
Four officers were specially selected for this
service, whose several characters promised an
admirable adaptation for its prosecution.
The commander calm and temperate, but firm
and persevering.
The second in command, Dr. Richardson, of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
135
untiring energy, great resolution, and powerful
bodily frame.
Mr. Hood (who unfortunately perished), a
young man actuated by the noblest feelings, and
of high acquirements.
Mr. (now Sir George) Back, whose subsequent
efforts in the same field prove his abilities as a
traveller.
But they laboured under two serious disad-
vantages,—disadvantages to which the disastrous
result of their expedition was undoubtedly attri-
butable. These were-First, Their utter unac-
quaintance with the country through which they
had to pass, and with the modes of travelling and
living therein.* All this they had to learn while
* It is in no invidious spirit, but in illustration of the
above remarks, that I here contrast the different manner in
which Captain Franklin and my brother got through with, and
viewed the winter's journeys which brought them to Fort
Chipewyan, the place which may be called the starting point
of both expeditions.
Captain Franklin travelled from Cumberland House to Fort
Chipewyan, a distance of eight hundred and fifty-seven miles
in sixty nine days.
My brother travelled from Red River to Fort Chipewyan, a
distance of one thousand two hundred and seventy-seven miles,
in sixty-three days.
Captain Franklin thus chronicles his feelings on ending this
initiatory trip: "Thus has terminated a winter's journey of
eight hundred and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which
there has been a great intermixture of agreeable and disagree-
136
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
conducting the expedition, and the surprise which
one who has any acquaintance with that country
feels on perusing the narrative is, that they suc-
ceeded in advancing so far as they did, not
that they should have endured such frightful
sufferings on their return.
Second, The disordered state of the Indian
territories in consequence of the hot opposition
carried on between the North West and Hud-
son's Bay Companies.
This rivalry, to which I have elsewhere alluded,
was, at the period of this expedition, at its greatest
able circumstances. Could the amount of each be balanced,
I suppose the latter would much preponderate; and amongst
these the initiation into the practice of walking in snow shoes
may be considered as prominent. The suffering it occasions
can but faintly be imagined by a person who thinks upon the
inconvenience of marching with a weight of between two and
three pounds constantly attached to galled feet and swelled
ankles; perseverance and practice only will enable the novice
to surmount this pain."
My brother closes the narrative of his run with these
words: "Thus happily terminated a winter's journey of one
thousand two hundred and seventy-seven statute miles. In
the wilderness, time and space seem equally a blank, and, for
the same reason, a paucity of objects to mark or diversify
their passage; but, in my real opinion, the secret of the little
account which is made of distance in these North American
wilds is, that there is nothing to pay. Every assistance is
promptly rendered to the traveller without fee or reward;
while health and high spirits smile at the fatigues of the
way."
}
THOMAS SIMPSON.
137
66
height. Captain Franklin was furnished with let-
ters from the capitalists of both parties, instruct-
ing their subordinate agents to render the expedi-
tion every assistance. But the truth of the old
proverb "between two stools," was fully exempli-
fied in this case. The parties haggled and
higgled" as to which should bear the burden
of supplying the expedition. Thus, in one in-
stance, the officer of one Company left five valu-
able, almost indispensable, packages on the beach,
because the canoes of the other Company had not
a similar number; at another place no provisions
were given by one party, while the other gave
such as turned out unserviceable. Again, "the
answer from the North West gentleman was satis-
factory enough; but on the Hudson's Bay side I
was told that any further assistance this season
entirely depends on the arrival of supplies expect-
ed in a few weeks from a distant establishment.""
The spirit of hostility was carried so far, that
at one place where it was particularly desirable
to have a conference with the leading officers
of both Companies, on the plans of the expedition,
it was necessary for Captain Franklin to pitch
his tent half-way between the rival establish-
ments, and to invite to this neutral ground, the
dignitaries of the trading posts.
The expedition left Fort Chipewyan on the
138
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
11th of July, 1820, in three canoes made of birch
bark. These were the only craft used at that
time in the Indian territories; they are now
almost entirely superseded by boats; but they
were very unfit for Arctic navigation, for the
bark of which they are formed, though tough
and strong when floating in water of a mode-
rate temperature, is extremely fragile and brittle
when immersed in water of such a low tempera-
ture as that of the Arctic Ocean.
Difficulties were not wanting at the very outset;
for operations were commenced with provisions
for only one day's consumption. Thus the party
was dependent on the produce of the chase
and fishery for daily supplies of food: a depend-
ance which effectually prevents a steady or rapid
advance. Captain Franklin was, also, quite
dependent on the reports of the Indians, for
the regulation of his plan of the expedition.
His original purpose was to have descended the
Mackenzie River, to cross Great Bear Lake,
and from the eastern end of that inland sea,
(whose immense size was quite unknown at that
time) to make a portage across to the Copper-
mine River. His plan as formed, after duly
considering the information given by the North-
ern Indians, was to cross Slave Lake, to ascend
the Yellow-Knife River-a rapid stream falling
THOMAS SIMPSON.
139
}
in from the north-to establish his winter station
on a chain of small lakes, leading from the head
waters of that stream, to the head waters of the
Coppermine River; to descend that river in the
spring, and then to proceed along the Arctic
coast, with the hope of reaching Repulse Bay;
a plan feasible in some respects, but quite im-
practicable in others.
They reached Fort Resolution on the 25th
of July, where they obtained a small supply of
provisions; crossed the Slave Lake, and reached
Fort Providence (the last trading station) on the
29th; here they were again supplied with some
provisions, and upon the 2nd of August, they
launched upon the field of Arctic discovery. How
they were provided for this bold enterprise may
be judged from the following detailed inventory of
their effects :-Provisions, two cases (fifty pounds
each) of flour, two hundred Rein-deer tongues,
some dried Moose meat, portable soup, and
arrow-root, sufficient in the whole for ten days' con-
sumption; besides two cases of chocolate, and
two canisters of tea. The stores consisted of
two barrels of gunpowder, one hundred and forty
pounds' ball and shot, four fowling pieces, a few
old trading guns, eight pistols, twenty-four Indian
daggers, some packages of knives, chisels, axes,
nails and fastenings for a boat, a few yards of
140
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
cloth, some blankets, needles, looking-glasses, and
beads, together with nine fishing nets.
They followed the Yellow-Knife River until
the 11th, ascending it a hundred and fifty-six
miles, when they found that it dwindled into an
insignificant rivulet. Now commenced a chain
of small lakes, divided from each other by long
portages; the fatigue of carrying the canoes and
baggage across which, joined to a scanty supply
of food, caused much discontent among the Cana-
dian voyageurs.
On the 13th, they openly threatened to relin-
quish the expedition; the very same evening,
however, a supply of deer's meat was brought in;
they had got among the rein-deer. For several
months afterwards, all hands lived in abundance;
and Captain Franklin honourably chronicles of
his Canadian companions, "that they never again
reflected upon us as they had done before, for
rashly bringing them into an inhospitable country
where the means of subsistence could not be
pro-
cured;" though frightful were the sufferings to
which the inexperience of their officers exposed
them.
The lake on which the winter establishment
was built, was attained on the 19th of August.
The name of Fort Enterprise was bestowed on
this most northerly of his Majesty's establish-
ments.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
141
Two separate parties, during August and Sep-
tember, made visits of observation to the head-
waters of the Coppermine River.
The establishment was well situated for a
supply of provisions; deer being very abundant
during the autumn. At the conclusion of the
hunting season, the latter end of October, they
had secured in the store-houses the carcasses of
one hundred deer, with one thousand pounds of
suet, and some dried meat, and had, moreover,
eighty deer stored up at various distances from
the house.
This would appear an ample supply; but the
establishment was large -a Canadian's appe-
tite is insatiable, and it may be fairly doubt-
ed, whether the officers were yet fully impressed
with the necessity for rigid economy of provisions.
The stock of ammunition was nearly expended
in making this collection; and the receipt from
the traders of the necessary supply of this article
was so uncertain, that Mr. Back was despatched
to Fort Chipewyan to negotiate for it. That
this was not an unnecessary precaution may
be judged from the fact already stated, that of ten
packages forwarded from York Factory, five were
wantonly left behind. The supplies which Mr.
Back succeeded in obtaining were much less than
was required; but to convey even the quantity
142
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
obtained on sledges to the establishment, caused
much fatigue to the servants employed. Already,
in March and April, starvation began to make
its appearance at Fort Enterprise, and an en-
croachment was necessarily made on the stock
reserved for the summer's voyage, yet not a mur-
mur was heard from any one; and when the meals
were reduced to one per day, (sometimes none
at all,) the amusement of eating was replaced
by that of sliding down natural "Montagnes
Russes "the excellent commander taking the
lead, until he was disabled by a fat Indian woman
running her sledge over him, and thereby severe-
ly spraining his knee. Their sole dependance
was on the exertions of the Indian hunters; but
doubts had already been instilled into their minds
as to the solvency of the expedition, i.e. whether
their promises to pay would be honoured pay-
ment in hand could not be made from want of
means. This led to much diplomatic intercourse
between Captain Franklin and Akaitcho, the
principal chief of the Copper Indians, in which
the latter played "fast and loose," very bare-
facedly, and was brought to consent to accom-
pany the expedition, only by the volunteering
of some of his subordinates to go without him.
Go he did, but with a bad will for his work.
The month of June 1821 was wholly consumed
;
THOMAS SIMPSON.
143
in the transport of the canoes and baggage (provi-
sions there were little, if any,) across the lakes
forming the reservoirs of the Coppermine River,—
a service of much fatigue and anxiety,—the whole
being dragged over the ice, which, though still
fast, was everything but firm. On the 14th of
June, the last of the party started from Fort
Enterprise. No one was left in the Establish-
ment to collect provisions; and the sole depen-
dance for finding any on their return, was placed
on the promises of the Indians—a fatal error.
On the 2nd of July the party embarked on the
waters of the Coppermine River in two bark
canoes, and its descent to the sea occupied them
until the 18th. They cursorily examined the
Copper Mountains, but did not find so many in-
dications of pure copper as they had anticipated.
Some Esquimaux were seen towards the mouth
of the river, but they were frightened and ran
away at the appearance of the party; and the
only individual of that tribe, with whom they
entered into intercourse, was an aged man at
the Bloody Fall, (the scene of the massacre by
Hearne's companions,) who was too infirm to
make his escape with his relatives. From him
they obtained but very little information regard-
ing the coast. The Indian hunters, alarmed at
the sight of their ancient enemies the Esquimaux,
144
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
retreated from the Bloody Fall. Mr. Wentzel, a
clerk of the N.W. Co.-who, with four Canadians
was employed to assist on the expedition was
also sent back from this point (why they had
been taken so far does not clearly appear): and
on the 21st of July, the party, now reduced to
twenty individuals, commenced their voyage on
the hyperborean sea. They had provisions for
but fifteen days, and their amunition consisted of
only one thousand charges!
+
Their advance was impeded more by strong
winds than by ice. By the 25th they had
succeeded in advancing one hundred and thirty
miles-to Cape Barrow; but, after passing this
point, they, unfortunately, got involved in the
intricacies of Bathurst's Inlet. This circuit of
gulph from Cape Barrow to Point Turnagain,-
the direct traverse being only about forty miles,
-occupied from this date to the 18th of August,
when it was resolved to discontinue the prosecu-
tion of the eastern voyage.
The result obtained by this expedition was the
exploration of a line of Arctic Coast of one
hundred and seventy statute miles; the distance
between the Coppermine River and Repulse
* I take the straight distances from 'point to point, without
following the sinuosities of the coast.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
145
Bay, the Point which it was proposed to reach,
being eight hundred statute miles.
The season appears to have been very favour-
able.
The strong winds which stopped the pro-
gress of their frail bark canoes, completely broke
up the ice. Captain Franklin says, that "the ice
would not have arrested a strong boat;" and
enters into an exposition of his views in respect
to the practicability of approaching the coast
with vessels a practicability which has never yet
been disproved.
The return of the party was marked by
frightful suffering and great loss of life. The
plan proposed for the return was, to ascend
Hood's River, and thence to strike across the
country to Point Lake, expecting to find a sup-
ply of provisions collected at Fort Enterprise.
Several of the party-the gallant young Hood
among the rest-never reached this place, and
those who did had the misery to find that no
provisions had been deposited there. It would
be painful to narrate the sufferings of the poor
fellows who perished, and the still greater suf-
ferings of those who survived; suffice it to say,
that of the twenty individuals who embarked
on the Arctic Sea, but ten returned; namely—
three officers, the faithful seaman Hepburn, and
six Canadians.
L
146
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
The officers returned to England in the Autumn
of 1822; and Captain Franklin's published
narrative of the services performed, and sufferings
endured, met with general approbation and
general sympathy.
CAPTAIN SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S SECOND
EXPEDITION.
SHORTLY after his return from the disastrous
journey just described, Captain Franklin laid
before His Majesty's Government a project for a
renewed expedition to the same region.
The Government, though feeling a deep interest
in the subject, for a little while hesitated again
to expose its subjects to perils and privations,
such as marked the first expedition; but its con-
sent being once granted, it was followed by pre-
parations on a most comprehensive and munifi-
cent scale.
The objects of the expedition were-
First, the exploration of the coast from the
Mackenzie River to Icy Cape of Cook. This was
to be attempted by one division under the per-
sonal command of Captain Franklin.
Second, the exploration of the coast between
the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers; this
branch of the service was to be entrusted to Dr.
Richardson.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
147
*
His Majesty's Ship Blossom, under the com-
mand of Captain Beechey, was despatched round
Cape Horn, for the purpose of meeting Captain
Franklin in Behring's Straits, and thence convey-
ing him to the civilized world.
Nor was Dr. Richardson's party without the
hope of falling in with vessels; for, at the same
time that this overland expedition was organized,
a maritime expedition, under the command of
Captain Parry, was sent out for the purpose of
discovering a north-west passage through Prince
Regent's Inlet.
Men, boats, stores, and provisions were for-
warded from England in the spring of 1824.
The two former, vid Hudson's Bay, the two latter
partly by that channel, and partly through Canada
with the intention of their being at Fort
Chipewyan in good season in 1825.
The four officers appointed to the expedition,
namely, Captain Franklin, Dr. Richardson, Lieu-
tenant Back, and Mr. Kendall, embarked from
Liverpool for New York, on the 16th of February,
1825. Landing at that port on the 15th of March,
they proceeded through the State of New
York to Niagara; thence through the Canadian
Territories to Penetanguishene on the shores of
Lake Huron, to which place canoes for their
northern voyage had been despatched from
L 2
148
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Montreal the preceding autumn. This very ex-
pensive mode of proceeding enabled Captain
Franklin and Dr. Richardson, who went on
express from Lake Superior, to reach the Atha-
basca Lake, on the 15th of July. A few days.
afterwards, their men, boats, and stores, which had
been forwarded by the route of Hudson's Bay the
previous year, joined them; and on the 23rd the
whole expedition was collected together, Lieu-
tenant Back and Mr. Kendall arriving on that
day with the loaded canoes left behind at Lake
Superior.
Proceeding down Slave River to the Great
Slave Lake, and thence descending the wide
Mackenzie, they arrived on the 7th of August,
1825, at Fort Norman; and, it being early in the
season, Captain Franklin determined on making a
voyage to the mouth of the river, while Dr.
Richardson started on a visit of exploration to
the north-eastern extremity of Great Bear Lake.
Their winter-quarters were to be Fort Franklin,
at the south-western extremity of that inland sea.
Captain Franklin, accompanied by Mr. Ken-
dall, accordingly embarked on the 8th in the
largest of the boats, and, gliding rapidly down
the river, arrived on the 10th at Fort Good
Hope, the most northern of the trading estab-
lishments. On the 16th of August the Arctic
THOMAS SIMPSON.
149
Ocean was attained, and Captain Franklin writes,
"the sea appeared in all its majesty, entirely
free of ice, and without any visible obstruction
to its navigation. Many seals and black and
white whales were sporting on its waves; and
the whole scene was calculated to excite in our
minds the most flattering expectations as to our
own success, and that of our friends in the Hecla
and Fury."
The season of 1825 had indeed been unusually
fine. Their arrival at the Arctic Sea occurred
just at the time when it is most propitious for
navigation; and it requires no great stock of
credulity or romance to imagine that a party
whose leader was unshackled by responsibilities,
and red-tape "instructions from the Colonial
Office, might at once have made a bold and a
successful push for the Russian settlement at
Kotzebues Sound.
""
Such was not Captain Franklin's party. They
returned in safety to Fort Franklin on the 5th of
September, and found that Dr. Richardson had
recently arrived from his exploration of Bear
Lake, which he had surveyed to the influx of
Dease's River, near its north-eastern extremity.
The party thus reassembled at Fort Franklin
consisted of forty persons. The four officers al-
ready named, Mr. Peter Warren Dease, an officer
150
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of the Hudson's Bay Company, attached to the
expedition; nineteen British seamen, marines,
and voyagers, nine Canadians, two Esquimaux,
a half-breed, and four Chipewyan hunters. There
were, besides, three women, six children, and one
Indian lad; and also a few infirm Indians who
required temporary support.
The winter was passed by this large party
without much, if any, unusual privation. A good
supply of meat had been provided in advance.
Fish, except during a short period in the dead
of winter, were procured in sufficient abundance
at the different fisheries established on the Lake.
The hunters supplied them occasionally with fresh
venison; and towards spring they received ample
supplies of dried meat. Thus the Pemican and
other stores, intended for their summer voyage,
were kept entire.
This voyage was commenced on the 21st of
June, 1826; on the 25th the party reached Fort
Norman. On the 1st of July it arrived at Fort
Good Hope; and on the 3rd having attained
Point Separation, where the Mackenzie River
branches into different channels, the parties in-
tended for the western and eastern journeys,
diverged from each other.
Captain Franklin, Lieutenant Back, eleven
Europeans, two Canadians, and Augustus, an
THOMAS SIMPSON.
151
Esquimaux interpreter, embarked in the boats
named the Lion and Reliance, on the western
survey.
Dr. Richardson, Mr. Kendall, nine Europeans,
and Ooligbuck, another Esquimaux from Church-
hill, started on the survey between the Mac-
kenzie and Coppermine Rivers, in the boats
named the Dolphin and Union.
The largest of these boats,* the Lion, was
twenty-six feet long, and five feet four inches
broad; was adapted for six rowers, a steersman,
and an officer; it could be borne on the shoulders
of six men, and was found, on trial, to be capable
of carrying three tons' weight in addition to the
crew. The others were a trifle smaller.
I shall first advert to the proceedings of Cap-
tain Franklin's party.
They reached the coast on the 7th, having
been for awhile perplexed amidst the channels
which form the delta of the Mackenzie. They
here fell in with a large body of Esquimaux,
who at first appeared friendly; but their cupidity
being excited by a view of the treasures which
the boats contained, they concerted a plan for
the pillage and murder of the whole party. Un-
like Indians, who will never, with whatever odds
* Three of the four were manufactured expressly for the
expedition, in England.
152
- LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
in their favour, make a bold and open attack, the
Esquimaux showed very unequivocal symptoms
of their intentions; but the excellent Franklin
would not credit those indications; and under
this misapprehension allowed them such facilities
for attack, that it is very wonderful how the
party escaped. No one can read Franklin's nar-
rative without being struck with admiration of his
humanity in abstaining, under very irritating and
alarming circumstances, from the use of fire-
arms.
The sea, which at the mouth of the Macken-
zie was open and unincumbered, was found ob-
structed with ice as they proceeded westward.
This caused much delay, and the plan adopted
on the subsequent expedition, (my brother's,) of
doubling the packs of ice which lay close in shore,
was not hazarded. The weather in the latter
end of July, and beginning of August, was sin-
gular for heavy gales. These, though they de-
layed the progress of the party, had the effect
of breaking up the ice, and would have made
the latter part of August, and the month of
September, very propitious for Arctic naviga-
tion.
The slowness and uncertainty of the westward
progress may be traced on Franklin's Chart, thus:
July 9th. Line of unbroken ice.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
153
July 10-16th. Followed up the ice as it
broke from the land.
16-30th. Heavy ice unbroken to lee-
ward, and closely packed in shore.
July 30-August 3. Unbroken ice.
August 3-4th. Ice newly broken from the
shore and close (a whale seen).
4-6th. Ice just broken from the shore,
but closely packed.
6-16th. Drift ice.
They frequently saw Esquimaux, who appear
to be numerous on the coast, but held as little
intercouse with them as possible.
On the 16th of August, having attained Return
Reef, lon. 149° 37', west, it was determined to
discontinue the further prosecution of the voy-
age, although the sea was now clear of the icy
obstructions which had so long detained them.
The 20th of August was pointed out by "the in-
structions" as the latest date to which the pro-
gress westward of the expedition was to be con-
tinued. Lord Bathurst did, indeed, give per-
mission to the party to remain for the winter
with the Esquimaux; but that was an alterna-
tive neither very practicable nor very pleasant.
This determination was very unfortunate; for,
on the 22nd, the barge of the Blossom (sent to
co-operate through Behring's Straits) reached
?
154
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Point Barrow, one hundred and sixty miles west
of their position; and there is no reason to doubt
that the intermediate distance could have been
with great facility accomplished. My brother's
party was indeed obstructed by ice in passing
this space, but that was at an earlier period of
the season, he having reached Return Reef on
the 23rd of July.
The return to Mackenzie River was more ex-
peditious than the advance; another proof of the
greater facility of navigating the Arctic Sea in
August than in July. Leaving Return Reef on
the 18th of August, they reached the mouth of
the Mackenzie on the 30th; arrived at Fort
Good Hope on the 7th of September, and were
snugly established in their winter-quarters at Fort
Franklin on the 21st.
I shall next advert to Dr. Richardson's expe-
dition from the Mackenzie to the Coppermine
River, which was completely successful. They
descended the eastern branch of the Mackenzie,
which falls into the ocean ninety miles to the
east of the channel followed by Franklin, and
had likewise an encounter, on first reaching the
coast, with the Esquimaux, who attempted to
pillage; but they, also, happily extricated them-
selves without appealing to the ultima ratio of
fire-arms.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
155
The progress eastward was rapid and but little
obstructed by ice. The first part of the voyage
was along a low range of coast which shelters
from the ocean a large and unexplored sheet of
brackish water, Esquimaux Lake,* which is
said to receive several rivers. This low range
passed, the coast becomes bold, with deep water.
It has many bays and inlets; and whales of large
size were seen disporting themselves close to
the shore a sure sign that there is, either
here or at no great distance, a long if not con-
tinual season of open water.
On the 18th of July, the northern promontory
of Cape Bathurst was passed: on the 23rd, Cape
Parry, equally prominent, though not so north-
erly, was doubled. The coast from thence had
"heavy masses of drift ice," but they were safely
and expeditiously passed through. On the 4th of
August, an extensive land to the northward was
discovered, and named " Wollaston Land:" but
the Straits of the Dolphin and Union afforded
a passage to the south of that island (yet un-
visited by civilized man); and on the 7th, the
party passed Cape Krusenstern, the western point
of George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf,-thus
* The Esquimaux gave it an extent from north to south of
more than one hundred and forty miles, and from east to west
of one hundred and fifty miles.
1
156
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
connecting the discoveries of the voyage with
those made by Captain Franklin in the former
expedition. On the 8th, they entered the Cop-
permine River.
The ascent of it being considered impracti-
cable, the boats were left at the Bloody Fall,
and the party struck across the barren grounds
for Bear Lake.
They reached the site of the future Fort Con-
fidence on the 18th-were delayed six days for
the boat which was ordered to be sent from
Fort Franklin to meet them at that point. It
arrived on the 24th; and on the 1st of Septem-
ber, they reached Fort Franklin, after an absence
of only seventy-one days.
Captain Franklin and Dr. Richardson returned
to England, via Canada, in the summer of 1827,
the remainder of the Expedition (except those
attached to the Hudson's Bay Company's service)
reached England later in the season by the
route of Hudson's Bay. The officers were special
objects of royal and public favour. Captain
Franklin received a knighthood — Dr. Richard-
son a permanent appointment; while Lieutenants
Back and Kendall were, by special minute of
the Admiralty, at once made Post Captains.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
157
CAPTAIN SIR JOHN ROSS'S EXPEDITION.
It does not fall within my province to advert
to the different maritime expeditions, by which
our knowledge of the Arctic Seas and Islands
bordering on Northern America has been ac-
quired.
This would form too wide a theme for me to
enter upon, and would in no manner illustrate
my subject; for it must be remarked that nothing
whatever has been done for the survey of the
Arctic coast of America, by any of the different
maritime expeditions. Beechey's Point Barrow,
to the westward, I consider as the north-eastern
extremity of Behring's Straits; while it is still
doubtful whether Parry's "Straits of the Fury
and Hecla," have a part of America for their
southern shore. The distance between these two
points is 70 degrees of longitude-eight of these
-Boothia Gulf-have not yet been explored.
The other sixty-two have been traced through
the Expeditions which I have already adverted
to, and which shall be narrated hereafter.
But the expedition of Captain Sir John Ross
having, as he asserted, made explorations by land
which fully demonstrated the non-existence of
any passage leading from the southern extremity
of Prince Regent's Inlet (or, as he names it, Gulf
1.58
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of Boothia) to the Arctic Sea; an assertion which
was somewhat shaken by Back's descent of the
Great Fish River, and which has been demon-
strated by the expedition, which will be fully
narrated in the following pages, to be quite in-
correct, I must briefly advert to his proceedings.
Having advanced, during the season of open
water of 1829, down Prince Regent's Inlet in his
steam-ship the Victory,* as far as lat. 69° 59′,
Captain Ross was compelled to take refuge for
the winter in a bay, which he named-after the
munificent supporter of the expedition-Felix
Harbour.
From
He was soon joined by parties of Esquimaux,
with whom he entered into a friendly and cordial
communication, which continued uninterrupted
during his stay on this desolate coast.
them he received much information respecting
the configuration of the southern portion of
Prince Regent's Inlet, which they asserted—as
their countrymen at Iglooick did to Parry-ap-
proached nearly to Repulse Bay.
It
A chart is given by Captain Ross as drawn by
the most
most intelligent of those natives.
delineates the Gulf of Boothia as a cul de sac,
having no connexion, save at the Straits of Fury
* Fitted out by the liberality of Mr. Sheriff Booth, after-
wards created a Baronet.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
159
and Hecla, with the sea either to the east or
west; and the journeys made by the officers of
the ship so convinced him of the correctness of
the chart, that he denies the possibility of there
being any passage to the southward of his
position. He has proved as wrong in asserting
this, as he was in asserting, on a former occasion,
that Barrow's Strait was a Bay. Fortunately,
however, for his pocket,* if not reputation, he
convinced a Parliamentary Committee of the truth
of his assertion.
An Esquimaux boy "described a place where
they were obliged to cross in their canoes a stream
of salt water that was always flowing to the east-
ward,† and which could not be passed in any other
manner." By this he undoubtedly meant the Strait
of Boothia, happily discovered by the expedition
on which my brother acted; and it is singular that
this Strait-though not above one hundred and
fifty miles distant from the harbours in which the
Victory lay for three winters, and not above sixty
miles distant from points traversed by Commander
* He obtained, in consequence of this Report, a knight-
hood and a grant of 5000l., besides pay for his crew and pro-
motion for his officers.
There is a regular tide, ebbing and flowing very strongly
through the Strait of Boothia; Captain Ross denying the ex-
istence of this strait, was not likely to cross-question his in-
formant.
160
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Ross was not only not explored, but its
existence unknown.
The journeys performed in the spring of 1830,
conducted principally by Commander Ross, showed
the existence of an isthmus of extremely narrow
breadth and intersected by lakes, which was
presumed to join the great peninsula of Boothia
to the American continent. This he crossed,
and saw the Great Northern Ocean to the west-
ward. Commander Ross proceeded still further,
and travelled along the southern shore of this
deep inlet for nearly one hundred and fifty miles,
deeming that he was tracing the Arctic coast of
the American Continent; a further progress of
twenty miles would have convinced him of his error
by leading him to Cape Jane Franklin, the
western extremity of the Island of Boothia.
Being imprisoned for another winter at a point.
very little distant from Felix Harbour, similar
journeys completed the survey of the northern
shore of this inlet, and led to the discovery of the
North Magnetic Pole.
Returning, after much detention and much
suffering, to England, Captain Ross claimed, and
for awhile received, the merit of having, by his
explorations, fully proved that no passage exists
between the Gulf of Boothia and the Western
Arctic Ocean, south of Barrow's Strait!
THOMAS SIMPSON.
161
CAPTAIN BACK'S EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF
CAPTAIN ROSS.
CAPTAIN ROSS's protracted absence began, in
the winter of 1831-32, to cause some uneasiness
among his friends; but as it was known that
he would find abundant provisions and stores left
by Parry at the Fury Beach, it was presumed
that he had replenished his stock there, and a
hope was entertained that he had succeeded in
his object, and that he might next be heard of
through the Pacific.
But no intelligence respecting him reaching
England in 1832, a feeling of intense anxiety
for his safety arose in the public mind; and,
as it was thought that he must be shut up in
the ice, attention was directed to the possibility
of affording him assistance-or at least ascertain-
ing his fate, by means of an expedition sent
through the northern part of America to Prince
Regent's Inlet, where it was presumed he was
shut up.
The British Government, though it declined to
send out such an expedition itself, offered to
contribute the sum of two thousand pounds in
aid of the funds for this laudable purpose, which
might be raised by public subscription. A suffi-
cient sum was thus raised in the winter of 1832,
M
162
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and the command of the expedition having been
refused by Dr. Richardson, in consequence of
other engagements, it was tendered to and ac-
cepted by Captain Back.
Native report which is seldom far wrong-
had led the Government officers employed on pre-
vious expeditions to a belief in the existence of a
river having its sources in the country north-east
of the Great Slave Lake, and flowing by an east-
erly course to the Arctic Sea. This river, it was
supposed by them—and their supposition turned
out to be very nearly correct-would lead to a
point on the coast nearly due south of, and not
distant more than three hundred miles from, the
beach on which the Fury's stores had been left-
where it was presumed Captain Ross and his party
would be found. A contrary opinion was enter-
tained by the officers of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany; Sir George Simpson maintaining that
the river rising to the north-east of Great Slave
Lake was identical with Back's River falling into
Bathurst's Inlet.
Captain Back, accompanied by Mr. Richard
King, the surgeon attached to the expedition, and
three English sailors, left England in February,
and reached Montreal on the 9th of April,
1833.
Receiving here an addition to his party of four
THOMAS SIMPSON.
163
privates of the Royal Artillery,-a large number
of whom eagerly volunteered for the expedition,
-he proceeded in canoes furnished by the Hud-
son's Bay Company through the usual channel of
communication to Lake Winipeg, where, from
among the servants of the Company, he engaged
the additional men required for the expedition.
Starting thence in a light canoe, he reached
Fort Resolution early in August. Here he ob-
tained some further information from the In-
dians respecting the rivers flowing northward.
They all described the Fish River* as infinitely
preferable to the Great Fish River.* The
former they said was a fine river, which flows
through a country where musk-ox, moose and
rein deer, and fish abound. The latter they
justly described as a rapid and shallow stream,
running through a barren country. They at the
same time asserted that their mouths were so
contiguous, that a fire at one could be seen from
the other.
Back, with wise discrimination, judged that it
was impossible that a stream such as the natives
described the Fish River, could flow into the
Arctic Ocean, (it will be seen that it flows into
* I prefer using these English names to the uncouth Indian
ones (The-lew and Thlew-ee-cho-dezeth), of which they are.
the translations.
M 2
164
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Chesterfield Inlet,) and determined on imme-
diately visiting the sources of the Great Fish
River.
Passing to the north-eastern extremity of Great
Slave Lake, and ascending Hoar Frost River
to its source, he made a portage to Artillery
Lake, and thence proceeded through the lakes
to which he has given the names of Clinton
-Colden, and Aylmer. His native guide was
much at fault as to the position of the source
which they were in search of; and at length it
was accidentally hit upon, on the 29th of August,
by Back himself, in a little lake which he named
Sussex Lake, situated not more than a mile
from Lake Aylmer.
•
He assured himself that it was really a river
flowing northward, by following its course to
Musk Ox Lake, and then immediately retraced
his steps to the eastern extremity of Slave Lake,
where a party under Mr. Alexander Roderick
Macleod--an officer of the Hudson's Bay Com-
ny, appointed to assist the expedition, had been
directed to form an establishment. The whole
party was thus collected together at their winter-
quarters, on which was bestowed the name of
Fort Reliance.
The winter was passed without much privation.
Provisions, indeed, were scarce; and the party had
THOMAS SIMPSON.
165
to be much dispersed to procure the means of
subsistence at different fisheries. Starving Indians
around them increased the dreariness ever atten-
dant on a residence in this northern wilderness;
at times they lived from hand to mouth, and
were obliged to break upon the stock of pemican
prepared for their summer voyage.
On the 25th of April, 1834, they received un-
expected news of the safe return to England of
Captain Ross. The main purpose of the expe-
dition was thus obviated; but it was considered
that it might do much for the enlargement of the
knowledge of the geography of the Arctic coast
of America. That aim Captain Back was in-
structed still to pursue, and even to devote two
summers to a connecting survey between the
points reached by Franklin and Ross.
Two boats were built in the spring on Artillery
Lake, one for the descent to the sea, the other
to be in readiness for the return of the party in
the autumn.
On the 7th of June, 1834, Captain Back and
the last of the party set out from Fort Reliance.
They crossed the country to the Artillery Lake,
where they arrived next day. Now commenced
the most arduous part of the service that of
hauling the boats, baggage, and provisions over
the ice of Artillery, Clinton-Colden, and
166
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Aylmer Lakes. This was done by the united
exertions of all the party, joined to those of some
Indians; the indefatigable Mr. Macleod, with a
party of Indians, hunting in advance of the
party, and making deposits of fresh venison for
them to pick up.
This transport service was not got through
with till the 3rd of July. The party divided at
the Musk Ox Lake; Mr. Macleod, with his hun-
ters and some servants, being sent back to Great
Slave Lake, while Captain Back, Mr. King, and
eight men, commenced their descent to the
coast. Mr. Macleod would, willingly, have en-
gaged to strike across the barren grounds to the
coast with his Indians later in the season, and
thus secure a retreat for the party, should they
succeed in advancing to the west; but his services
were considered more valuable, in making the
necessary arrangements for bringing supplies
from the Company's post of Fort Resolution to
Fort Reliance.
The tedious descent of the Great Fish River I
shall not detail: the weather was stormy, the
lakes through which the river passed still covered
with ice; the falls and rapids numerous; but the
consummate skill of Mackay and Sinclair, the
men who subsequently accompanied my brother,
enabled them safely to pass all these dangers.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
167
On the 28th of July they fell in with a
small party of Esquimaux, near the mouth of
the river, who were quiet, inoffensive, and dis-
posed to afford assistance and information.
On the 30th, the party encamped at Cape
Beaufort, a prominent point of the inlet, into
which the Great Fish River falls. From this
promontory they had the unpleasant view of the
ocean, still covered with ice to the westward,
while to the eastward there was a comparatively
clear sea. But their views were confined to the
western survey; and though the promise to the
east was inviting, it was not in accordance with
"instructions" to pursue it.
From Cape Beaufort, a narrow lane of open
water led them to Montreal Island: and on the
7th of August, a temporary disruption of the ice
enabled them to reach Point Ogle, on the western
shore of the inlet; this was the limit of their
progress on the coast. They remained at and
near this point for several days, in hopes of a
clear sea.
Several indications noticed during this
delay, led Captain Back to the conclusions-
which have been proved correct-that there was
a passage to the westward not far distant from
his encampment, and that the clear sea seen to
the eastward, was a continuation of the Gulf of
Boothia.
168
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
On the 16th of August, there being no appear-
ance of a clearing away of the western ice, the
return of the expedition was commenced. On
the 21st it re-entered the Great Fish River;
its ascent was long and tedious, but unmarked
by any particular difficulties. On the 16th of
September, Musk Ox Lake was again the en-
camping place; and here Mr. Macleod was found
waiting their return with some men and In-
dians.
On the 27th of September the party was again
assembled at Fort Reliance; and after full con-
sideration of the prospects of completing the
survey, Captain Back reluctantly came to the
conclusion that it would be useless and injudi-
cious to make another attempt the succeeding
season, either by again descending the Great Fish
River to its mouth, or by crossing the country
from Lake Beechey to Bathurst's Inlet.
He returned to England by the way of Canada,
in the summer of 1835; Dr. King and the Eu-
ropeans of the party by Hudson's Bay, in the
autumn of the same year.
The result of this expedition was important
only from its throwing doubts upon the assertion
of Captain Ross, that Boothia was a peninsula
of Northern America. A sea was found where,
according to his theory, a sea should not be.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
169
It is evident that nothing could or would have
been done by this expedition for the relief and
assistance of Captain Ross and his followers, had
they been imprisoned by the want of a ship and
boats on the shores of Prince Regent's Inlet.
Yet it was highly creditable to the British nation
that an expedition with so humane an object
was so promptly organized.
SIR GEORGE BACK'S INTENDED SURVEY FROM
WAGER RIVER.
IN 1836 an expedition, of which the object
was the exploration of the yet undiscovered part
of the American Arctic coast, was sent out by
the British Government under the command of
Captain Back. The Terror, bomb-ship, was fitted
out for this service, and Captain Back's instruc-
tions were:
To proceed through Hudson's Straits to Wager
River, or Repulse Bay; thence, by carrying light
boats across the narrow strip of land dividing
those inlets from the Gulf of Boothia, one party
was to trace the eastern coast of that gulf, and
another to follow the American coast till it
reached Franklin's Point Turnagain, or Ross's
Extreme.
These instructions were "framed with the in-
170
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
tention, and in the full belief, that this service.
may be duly and faithfully performed in the course
of the present season (1836), and that this Arctic
expedition may be distinguished from all others
by the promptitude of its execution, and by es-
caping from the gloomy and unprofitable waste
of eight months' detention."
This "full belief" on the part of the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty was, to say the
least, very absurd. The ice in Hudson's Straits
and Bay seldom, if ever, permits of the arrival
of a vessel from England on the shores of that
inland sea previous to the month of August;
what then remains of the season for Arctic
navigation is evidently too short to permit of
the surveys pointed out being executed under
the most favourable circumstances, or by the
most energetic officers.
Geographical Societies and Lords of the Ad-
miralty, "living at home at ease," may prepare
very plausible plans for Arctic expeditions, but
the ice of the northern seas is very capricious,
and is apt to mar the best considered projects—
and this was not one of these. This particular
season it was more capricious than it was ever
before known to be. It blocked up passages
which, in ordinary years, were quite free; and
instead of "escaping," as my lords fully believed
THOMAS SIMPSON.
171
they would, "from the gloomy and unprofitable
waste of eight months' detention," Captain Back
and his gallant crew were obliged to winter
among the ice of Hudson's Bay, without being
able to attain their desired harbour; and thus
were, of course, utterly precluded from attempt-
ing the discoveries for which they were outfitted.
After encountering most imminent dangers,
they succeeded, late in the summer of 1837, in
extracting their vessel from the ice, and had
much difficulty in keeping her afloat during the
homeward voyage.
The extent of discovery on the northern coast
of America, previous to 1837, may be concisely
recapitulated thus:-
Point Barrow, the north-east cape of Behring's
Straits, reached by the Blossom's barge from the
Pacific, is in longitude 156° 20′ W.
From the Atlantic, an advance had been
made through Prince Regent's Inlet to longi-
tude 92° W.
The distance between these two points is (in
round numbers) one thousand six hundred statute
miles.
The existence of two rivers falling into the
Arctic Sea between those points, and flowing
172
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
northward from countries comparatively known,
was proved by Hearne and Mackenzie.
Following those rivers, two successive Govern-
ment expeditions traced the coast between their
mouths; and also an extent of coast westward
from Mackenzie's River, of three hundred and
forty miles; and eastward from Coppermine
River, of one hundred and eighty miles.
The expedition of Captain Back proved that
a river fell into the Arctic Ocean at a point
nearly due south of Captain Ross's Peninsula of
Boothia.
Thus, then, it remained for the expedition to
which my brother was appointed,
First. To fill up the blank between the ex-
treme west of Franklin's discoveries and Point
Barrow, a distance of one hundred and seventy
miles. But in order to attain this terra incognita,
it was necessary to pass along a line of coast of
three hundred and forty miles-the hard-won pro-
gress of Franklin during the summer of 1826.
Second. To trace the Arctic coast between
Franklin's Eastern Extreme, and the gulf (Prince
Regent's Inlet) to which entrances had been
proved to exist from Baffin's Bay by Barrow's
Straits, and from Hudson's Bay by the Straits
of the Fury and Hecla-a distance of four hun-
dred miles. To attain this wide field of explo-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
173
ration, it was necessary to pass along a line of
coast of one hundred and eighty miles, the
discovery of which was effected by Franklin's
first and disastrous expedition.
These objects were fully accomplished through
the exertions and energies of my brother-ex-
ertions often impeded-energies repressed by the
unfortunate and ill-judged addition to the ex-
pedition, which he himself planned, of a senior
officer.
MR. RICHARD KING'S PROJECTED EXPE-
DITION.
MR. RICHARD KING, who accompanied Captain
Back in the capacity of surgeon, and whose pub-
lished narrative leaves no doubt that he disap-
proved of his commander's proceedings, was very
active in calling public attention to Arctic disco-
very during the winter of 1835-6. Several public
meetings, with the view of effecting, through
public subscriptions, an enterprise which the Go-
vernment seemed to have given over in despair,
were held in London, under respectable auspices:
and Mr. King not only volunteered to conduct
an expedition for this purpose, but had even
made arrangements to start for America in the
spring of 1836, which failed from some unex-
plained cause.
174
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Mr. King's plan was to start from Montreal in
the spring of 1836, in a bark canoe, manned by six
men, hired for the expedition in Canada. To fol-
low the usual route to Athabasca Lake, and thence
to convey his canoe through a chain of small
lakes and portages (never yet explored, though
known from Indian report to exist) which led
from thence to the Fish River. To descend that
river for some distance to a point where a tribu-
tary joins from the west, the head waters of
which he supposed to be. near the head wa-
ters of Bailie's River, falling into the Great Fish
River. At this place he was to winter, in a
country abounding (according to Indian report)
with Musk Ox, Moose and Rein Deer, Fish, &c.
In the succeeding spring the canoe was to be
conveyed across to Great Fish River, and the
mouth of that river being attained, the survey of
the Arctic Coast was to be commenced. There
is no doubt that such a chain of communication
exists between Athabasca Lake and the Fish
River; and it is now well known that the Fish
River is a fine stream flowing into Chesterfield
Inlet: but the country between the two rivers is
quite unknown; and the possibility of transport-
ing a canoe across it is very doubtful. Admitting
that it had been transported in safety, and that
the party had reached the mouth of the Great
THOMAS SIMPSON.
175
Fish River, it is evident that a bark canoe is quite
unfit for navigating the Arctic Ocean; and Mr.
King's progress would, in all likelihood, have
been little greater than that of his late com-
mander. Moreover, without the co-operation
of the Hudson's Bay Company, the attempt
would, most likely, have been futile. Mackay,
Sinclair, and all the men experienced in the
navigation of the Arctic rivers are in its service;
and no Canadian voyageurs could have been pro-
cured in Canada adequate for such an enter-
prise.
As a self-depending scheme-that is, one not
dependent on the co-operation of the Hudson's
Bay Company-it was, however, undoubtedly the
most feasible that could have been projected.
176
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
CHAPTER X.
Organization of an Expedition for Arctic Discovery by the
Hudson's Bay Company. Their Reasons for this Step.-
My Brother called upon to plan the Expedition.-Plans for
Arctic Discovery which he drew up.
founded thereon.-Teaching in Astronomy.---Deficiency of
Instruments, and Comments thereon.
"Instructions
THE projected expedition of Mr. King was
not at all satisfactory to the managers of the
Hudson's Bay Company.
He had made himself very obnoxious to them
by severe strictures on their operations, and his
return to their country in command of an expe-
dition would have been exceedingly distasteful to
them this was one reason for their taking up
the subject themselves.
Another more weighty reason was the necessity
which they felt of doing something to place them-
selves in a position to make an application to the
British Government for a gratuitous renewal* of
* That renewal was obtained in 1838-9 for twenty-one
years from 1842, after much negotiation; during which the
Government made pressing claims for an annual payment in
THOMAS SIMPSON.
177
their grant of the exclusive trade of the region
which was to form the field of the operations of
the expedition.
The Morning Chronicle, the best informed
of English papers on North American affairs,
thus refers to the measures which the Hudson's
Bay Company at length took for the completion
of the survey of the Arctic coast of the conti-
nent. As to the expense of the expedition,
although it must have been considerable, yet,
considering that the Company was established for
the purpose, among others, of making dis-
coveries in the territories granted to them, and in
the adjoining country of America, the credit due
to them on that score is only that of perform-
return for this renewal,—claims which were waived principally
in consideration of the expedition undertaken for Arctic dis-
covery. The first grant to the United Company (formed out
of the rival North-West and Hudson's Bay) of exclusive trade
with the Indians over all the extra-provincial parts of North
America was gratuitous for twenty-one years from 1821; but it
was the intention of the framers of the act, under which that
grant was given, that an annual rent should be demanded on
its renewal. The words of the act are "from and after the
expiration of such first period of twenty-one years, it shall be
lawful for his Majesty or successors to reserve such rents in
any future grant or licences to be made to the same or any
other parties, as shall be decided just and reasonable, with
security for the payment thereof; and such rents shall be
deemed part of the land revenues of his Majesty."
N
178
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ing the duty under which their charter was origi-
nally granted."
Influenced by these views, the Directors, in
the spring of 1836, instructed their local agent,
Mr. George Simpson, to make arrangements for
the equipment of an expedition under their own
auspices. For the planning and conduct of such
an enterprise, no one in their territories was
so well qualified as my brother; and he was at
once called upon by Governor Simpson to enter
upon it, which he did, not only with zeal and
alacrity, but with the highest delight.
The purpose of the expedition, as first stated
to my brother, was to connect the discoveries
of Captains Ross and Back; and with this
view he drew up the following plan for its
operations.
66
*
Engage, at Norway House, ten good men;
eight of whom to accompany the expedition to
the sea, and two to be employed with a party of
Indians, during the summer of 1837, in collecting
provisions at the point of rendezvous, for the retreat
of the expedition, and for the fall fishing at Fort
Reliance. With these ten men, and the requisite
outfit (as per list), the expedition should start as
soon as possible from Norway House, in two
"Good men" is a term applied in the Indian country to
able and willing boatmen.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
179
canoes, and overtake the Portage-la-loche boats
and get them to embark five bags of pemican
each, (say twenty bags,) at Ile à la Crosse, to be
brought on by the Mackenzie River craft to Fort
Resolution, and thence by one of the canoes des-
patched this fall from Fort Reliance. The canoes
to push on to establish Fort Reliance, and to
procure the co-operation of a party of Indian
hunters there, to be employed in collecting pro-
visions during the fall and winter, to aid in
transporting the boat, one canoe, and stores, to
the head of Great Fish River in the spring,-to
accompany the expedition down that river to
Lake Beechey, there to make a deposit of pro-
visions—and, if they can be so induced, to cross
over and meet the expedition on their return at
the mouth of Back's River.
"If, for fear of the Esquimaux, the Indians could
not be prevailed on to meet the expedition at
the coast, they must remain at Lake Beechey,
at a point to be fixed upon, till the return of
the expedition from the sea, and accompany it
back to Fort Reliance.
"This part of the journey to be effected by
means of the canoe already noticed, which would
be left at Lake Beechey on the descent. These
arrangements having been made with the Indians,
the party to proceed in their boat with the
N 2
180
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
utmost despatch down Great Fish River to Back's
farthest point, where the survey must be renewed.
If the expedition find Ross's Strait as supposed,
and can reach Back's River by boat the same
season, they must proceed on foot, provided with
hides to make temporary canoes if necessary, to
the appointed rendezvous at Lake Beechey. If
they find a peninsula where Ross's Strait is sup-
posed to exist, they must either, after examining
this peninsula, return as they went; or, being pro-
vided with an Esquimaux interpreter, (forwarded
from Churchill by the winter express,) if they fall
in with that tribe, prosecute their journey during
the winter on foot to Back's River, where the
same party of Indians who have wintered at Fort
Reliance should be appointed to meet them with
the requisite provisions for their return early in
the spring of 1838.
66
'By the proposed project, it is hoped that that
portion of the coast which is most attainable
from the interior, and whose delineation is most
interesting to science, may be traced in the short-
est period, and at the least expense."
The scope of the operations of the expedition
being subsequently extended, in addition to the
eastern survey, to the exploration of the hiatus
between the Mackenzie River and Point Barrow,
my brother drew up for it the following bold but
THOMAS SIMPSON,
181
well considered plan. The ultimate complete
success of the expedition is a triumphant proof
of the foresight with which its plans were formed.
PROPOSED PLAN OF ARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1836.
66
Engage at Norway House twelve good men ;
start from thence with the Athabasca brigade,
with one additional boat manned by eight of the
above hands, and the remaining four distributed
among the four Athabasca boats. Take on the
requisite outfit from Norway House, any defi-
ciences in which to be indented for and brought
up from York Factory this season, and forwarded
next spring by the Portage-la-loche brigade.
Embark this season, either at Cumberland or
Ile à la Crosse, thirty bags of pemican, and pro-
ceed to winter in the Athabasca district. There
make the necessary arrangements with the Dogrib
and Copper Indians, to secure their co-operation
with an establishment to be formed next summer
at Dease's River, Great Bear Lake.
"At the opening of the navigation in 1837,
proceed to Great Bear Lake River, in two boats,
or one boat and a canoe, manned by the twelve
people belonging to the expedition, and two half-
breeds or Indians.
"From thence despatch the smaller boat or
the canoe, with four of the men and the two half-
182
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
breeds or Indians to Dease's River, to erect the
establishment and make the fishery. The officers
and the remaining eight men to proceed to the
coast, and complete the survey westward, from
Point Beechey to Point Barrow; thence return to
winter quarters at Dease's River. The additional
outfit to be forwarded, as already noticed, by the
portage brigade in the summer of 1837-having
been brought to Fort Norman, or to the entrance
of Great Bear Lake River, it would be conveyed
from thence to winter quarters by the expedition
on its return from the sea; likewise any pro-
visions that could be procured from Athabasca or
Mackenzie River.
"As early as practicable in the spring of 1838,
transport the boat intended for the eastern
survey (which should be built at Dease's River
during the winter) and the necessary stores across
to the Coppermine River, and there embark
with eight men as before, leaving the remaining
four and the Indians to make provision for the
ensuing winter.
"The expedition then to proceed direct to Point
Turnagain, and continue the survey from thence to
the eastward, so as to connect the discoveries of
Captains Ross and Back, if practicable; this effect-
ed, or when it becomes unsafe to remain longer
on the coast, the party to return to the Copper-
}
THOMAS SIMPSON.
183
}
mine, and make the best of their way back to
Dease's River; to winter there, or at Fort Simp-
son, if the season will permit; and the whole
expedition to come out to Norway House in the
fall of 1839.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
The following "instructions," on which the
expedition proceeded, (deviating occasionally, how-
ever, from them,) were founded entirely on this
plan-indeed, are a mere translation of it into
official phraseology; "the rest is all but leather
and prunella:" yet, after the scheme was matured,
it was strangely, unwisely, and unjustly deter-
mined that the nominal chief command should
not be vested in my brother. It was bestowed
on Mr. Peter Warren Dease, an elderly officer of
the Company, who had accompanied Captain
Franklin on his last expedition.
The cause alleged to my brother and his
relatives for this unfair change was the jealousy
which would be felt by the older officers of the
Company, were his appointment that of osten-
sible commander-a jealousy which it was as-
serted (I am loath to admit with justice) would
be sufficient to induce them to throw every im-
pediment and obstruction in the way of the expe-
dition. This was the avowed reason; but the
correct one, undoubtedly, was the unwillingness
184
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of Governor Simpson, springing from personal as
well as political grounds, to permit his young
relative to attain a position so prominent and
independent as that in which the completion,
alone and uncontrolled, of the survey of the
Arctic coast of America would have placed him.
My brother's enthusiasm, when once he had en-
tered upon the subject, was too great to permit
his being kept back, even by this unlooked for
change, although he deeply felt and bitterly re-
gretted it. This enthusiasm, it will be abundantly
evident, was the sole secret of the complete suc-
cess of the expedition; it will be no less evident,
from notices in the sequel, that the signer of
the "instructions," was quite unacquainted with
the nature of the service to be performed, or of
the means and measures necessary for its per-
formance; yet to him the honour of projecting
the expedition has been largely ascribed; and
to him were awarded the honours consequent
on its successful completion.
INSTRUCTIONS.
1
"Messrs. P. W. Dease and Thomas Simpson.
GENTLEMEN,
"Norway House,
July 2nd, 1836.
"By the 79th and 80th resolutions of Coun-
cil of this season, copies of which are annexed,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
185
".
you will observe that we have determined on
fitting out an expedition forthwith, for the pur-
pose of endeavouring to complete the discovery and
survey of the northern shores of this continent.
"2. This object has for a great length of
time excited the most lively interest in the public
mind; and has baffled the exertions of many en-
terprising men, among whom the names of Parry,
Franklin, Ross, and Back have of late years
appeared conspicuous; but I trust that the honour
of its accomplishment is reserved for the Hudson's
Bay Company, through your exertions; and in
selecting you for so important a mission, we give
the best proof of the high opinion we entertain
of your abilities and qualifications for such an
undertaking.
"3. The expedition, consisting of twelve men,
is now placed under your direction; and you
will be pleased to conduct it without delay to the
Athabasca country; and to pass the ensuing win-
ter at Fort Chipewyan or Great Slave Lake, as
you may consider expedient: although in my
opinion, Great Slave Lake would be the prefer-
able wintering ground, as regards the object of
the expedition.
"4. At the opening of the navigation in June,
you will proceed by boat down the Mackenzie
River to Fort Norman, and there leave four men,
186
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
with directions that they proceed from thence
to the north-east end of Great Bear Lake, and
there erect buildings, establish fisheries, and col-
lect provisions for the accommodation and main-
tenance of the party during the winter of 1837-38.
"5. You will then go down to the sea with
the remaining eight men, and endeavour to trace
the coast to the westward to long. 156° 21', lat.
71° 23′ 39″ north, whence Captain Beechey's
barge returned. Should your progress along the
coast be obstructed by ice or fog, as Sir John
Franklin's was, you will either put the boat in a
place of security, and proceed on foot with all
your party, or leave four men with the boat for
its protection, while you go along the shore, car-
rying a sufficient quantity of provisions with you
for the journey. It is desirable to take observa-
tions as frequently, and to survey the coast as
accurately as possible, without, however, losing
time in your outward journey in waiting for the
appearance of the sun, moon, or stars, which are
frequently obscured by the dense fogs that pre-
vail so much on that coast; but devoting as much
time to these objects as the season and the
state of your provisions will allow on your return.
"6. At the most westerly point you may reach,
you will erect on a conspicuous situation a pillar
or mound, and leave deposited in the earth at its
THOMAS SIMPSON.
187
base a bottle hermetically sealed, containing an
outline of the leading circumstances connected
with the voyage.
"7. In suggesting that the boat should be left
in the event of your progress being obstructed by
ice or fog, I beg it to be understood that that
ought not to be done if there be the least pro-
bability that by perseverance you may succeed in
getting her along shore, as the preservation of the
boat I consider to be highly essential both to the
accomplishment of the voyage, and to the pro-
tection of the party; but if there is no possibility
of getting on with the boat, I beg to recommend
that you provide yourselves with axes and cordage
to make rafts for crossing rivers, and some parch-
ment, sheeting, and oilcloths to make a couple of
small canoes for the conveyance of the party,
should it be found impossible to cross the rivers
on rafts, and in order to secure your retreat in
the event of the loss of the boat.
"8. Should you not be able to accomplish the
voyage or journey during the season of open
water, and that you fall in with friendly Esqui-
maux or Indians, as many of the party as can be
maintained may remain with them, so as to
complete the survey in the course of the winter or
spring. In this, however, you will exercise your
own discretion and be guided by circumstances.
188
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"9. It is exceedingly desirable, however, that
you should return by open water, so as to pass
the winter at the establishment to be formed at
the north-east end of Great Bear Lake, in order
to make the necessary preparations for another
voyage of discovery to the eastward at the open-
ing of the navigation in the summer of 1838.
10. The object of that voyage is to trace the
coast from Franklin's Point Turnagain eastward
to the entrance of Back's Great Fish River.
To that end you will haul your boat across from
the north-eastern extremity of Great Bear Lake
to the Coppermine River, before the winter breaks
up; and at the opening of the navigation pro-
ceed to the sea, and make as accurate a survey of
the coast as possible, touching at Point Turn-
again, and proceeding to Back's Great Fish River,
if the strait or passage exist which that officer
represents as separating the mainland from Ross's
Boothia Felix; but, should it turn out on exami-
nation that no such strait exists, and that Cap-
tain Ross is correct in his statement that it is a
peninsula, not an island,-you will in that case
leave your boat and cross the isthmus on foot,
taking with you materials for building two small
canoes, by which you may follow the coast to
Point Richardson, Point Machonochie, or some
other given spot, that can be ascertained as
THOMAS SIMPSON.
189
having been reached by Captain Back, and you
will be regulated in determining whether you
will return by Great Fish River or by the coast,
by the period of the season at which you may
arrive there, the state of the navigation, and
other circumstances.
"11. In order to guard against any privation in
the event of your returning by Great Fish River,
it will be advisable to make arrangements at
Great Slave Lake, that a supply of provisions,
with ammunition and fishing-tackle, likewise
babiche for snow-shoe lacing, be deposited at
Lake Beechey or some other point on that route.
"12. Should you be unable to complete the
voyage to the eastward from Coppermine River in
one season, you may, as suggested in reference to
the other voyage, take up your quarters with
the Esquimaux for the winter, so as to ac-
complish it the following season.
“13. In making your arrangements for both
voyages, I have to recommend that a consider-
able quantity of pemican and flour, not less
than one hundred pieces, be provided for voyag-
ing provisions; and that you be well supplied
with materials for constructing small canoes,
leather for shoes, and snow-shoe netting, like-
wise with ammunition, axes, crooked knives,
fishing-hooks, net-thread, backing and setting
190
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ช
lines, and with warm clothing for yourselves and
the people.
"14. The necessary astronomical and survey-
ing instruments are provided to enable you to
take observations, and to make surveys, in which
you will be as accurate as possible; and you will
be pleased to prepare a full and particular Journal,
or narrative of the voyage; likewise a chart of
the coast; and to take formal possession of
the country, on behalf of Great Britain, in your
own names, acting for the Honourable Hudson's
Bay Company, at every part of the coast you may
touch, giving names to the different headlands,
mountains, rivers, and other remarkable objects
you may discover. It is also desirable that you
make a collection of minerals, plants, or any
specimens of natural history you may fall in with,
that appear to be new, curious, or interesting.
"15. You are hereby authorised to avail
yourselves, for the use of the expedition, of
any assistance whatsoever you may require, at
any of the Honourable Company's establish-
ments you may touch at, or have communica-
tion with, either by letter or otherwise; and
the gentlemen in charge of these establishments
are hereby instructed to meet all demands you
may make upon them.
“ 16.
In the event of any accident occurring
J
THOMAS SIMPSON.
191
to prevent either of you from proceeding on
this mission, the other will be pleased to follow
up the object of it, and to avail himself of the
assistance, as second in command, of any clerk of
the Company he may find within his reach;
and such clerk will be pleased to act in that
capacity accordingly.
"With fervent prayers for your safety and
success,
"I remain, Gentlemen,
Your most obedient servant,
"GEORGE SIMPSON."
The expedition was organized on the foregoing
plan, and under the foregoing "instructions," at
Norway House, in July, 1836. The complement
of men was completed at the same rate of wages
as on Captain Back's expedition (forty pounds
per annum). It was unfortunate only in fisher-
men. One injured his leg, and was unable to
go; another, a powerful man named Anderson,
who had served at Fort Reliance with Captain
Back, being seized with a sudden panic, fled into
the woods, where he was found after its departure
disordered in his mind. His place was filled
up by a man subsequently engaged on the route
northward.
A supply of trading-goods required to pay
192
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
}
the Indians for their services, and for provisions,
having been got up from York Factory, and
all the other arrangements being complete, Mr.
Dease took his departure on the 21st of July for
Athabasca, in company with Mr. Edward Smith,
the officer in charge of that department, who
afforded every possible aid in transporting the
goods and provisions destined for the expedition
during the long and laborious voyage to Fort
Chipewyan, which they safely reached on the
26th of September.
At the same time, my brother returned to Red
River settlement for the purpose of refreshing
his knowledge of mathematics, and receiving
instruction in practical astronomy.
The knowledge of his instructor was but very
limited; but he profited well by this short in-
terval of study and practice, as the correctness of
his observations and surveys fully testify.
This correctness was, undoubtedly, not owing
to the excellence or the abundance of instru-
ments with which he was furnished, but solely
to his own unremitting attention and inflexible
perseverance. His original outfit of instruments
consisted of little, if anything, more than a sex-
tant, compass, and thermometer (a borrowed
one). "A valuable gold watch, kindly lent to
the expedition by C. F. Edwards Smith," was
THOMAS SIMPSON.
193
his sole chronometer: and it was not until the
third summer that he had the use of a dipping
needle.
6
·
On the want of this and other instruments
he thus writes to Governor Simpson: "I am
thus deprived of the means of making magnetical
experiments of the most interesting nature; so
much so that Captain James Ross styles them
the
very key-stone' of his discoveries. I must
in candour add that the limited and defective
supply of instruments, particularly the want of
chronometers, is alike unworthy of the Company's
wonted liberality, and of the extent and im-
portance of our undertaking.”—Again he writes
the second winter, "The dipping-needle, &c.,
have not come to hand. I did not think that
in so important, yet as to cost insignificant, item
of the expedition account, you could wish to
practise such rigid economy, even while in all
things else we are keeping down our expenses by
every possible fraction.”
.0
194
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
1
CHAPTER XI.
A Winter Journey of One Thousand Two Hundred and Se-
venty-seven Miles from Red River to Athabasca.-Northern
Squatters. A Frontier Fortalice.-Pemican.- An Octo-
genarian. The Secret of Travelling in the Far North.
IN the afternoon of the 1st of December,
1836, the day he had fixed upon for his long
winter journey from Red River Colony to Atha-
basca, my brother bade adieu to his kind and
much esteemed friend Mr. Alexander Christie,
to the worthy clergymen, and the other indi-
viduals forming the little society of this Oasis
in the desert, all of whom breathed the warmest
wishes for his welfare and success.
The autumn had been long and beautiful,
and the snow had not as yet cast its white
mantle upon the earth; he was therefore obliged
to set out with horses and carts, which conveyed
their little baggage to the Manitobah Lake.
His gay carriole and three sledges followed light,
drawn by the dogs and attended by their drivers,
chosen men, who completed the little party
THOMAS SIMPSON.
195
bound for the distant north. In this manner
they proceeded for three days through a prairie
country, studded with a few copses of poplar
and dwarf oak. In the shade of these they
obtained sufficient snow for their horses and
dogs in lieu of water, a luxury not to be found in
these arid plains, which, having been swept by
the running fires so frequent and terrible in the
prairies, presented a blackened and dismal as-
pect.
In the afternoon of the third day they reached
the borders of Manitobah Lake, and procured
a night's lodging in the huts of some "freemen,"
of whom they found eleven families resident
there. These people subsist chiefly by hunting
and fishing; they possess a few horses and cattle,
enjoy a rude squalid plenty; and, though separated
from their fellow men, seemed to live quite hap-
pily.
The lake had but recently assumed its icy
covering, which, as far as the eye could distin-
guish, rose in huge masses, as if forbidding all
further progress. So formidable was its appear-
ance, that the people endeavoured to dissuade
my brother from prosecuting that route; but
he resolved to persevere, and dismissing their
wheeled vehicles, they soon had their baggage
stowed upon the sledges. The carriole intended
0 2
196
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
for himself he appropriated to the carriage of
his books, instruments, &c., and preferred per-
forming the whole journey to Athabasca on foot.
Two of the young freemen agreed to afford the
assistance of their dogs to the Company's nearest
post; and, at each establishment on the route
he in like manner procured the aid of a couple of
fresh men to accompany him to the next. Then
began the flourishing of whips, the shouts of the
drivers, and the howling of the refractory dogs-
all blending together in one horrible outcry.
For some distance they found the ice almost
impracticable, but on doubling a point the broken
rugged masses gave place to a smooth and glassy
level. To walk on such a surface with the mo-
cassins, or soft leather shoes of the country, was
almost impossible. They were, however, pro-
vided with crampets, which they strapped on in
the same manner as the Kamschatdales wear
their "posluki," or ice-shoes.
Thus secured from many an awkward fall, they
advanced rapidly, finding it no easy matter to
keep pace with the dogs, who, rejoicing in the
ease with which they now dragged their burdens,
scampered away at a great rate.
The 4th, 5th, and part of the 6th were passed
in this fatiguing exercise; at noon on the last
day, they arrived at the small trading-point
THOMAS SIMPSON.
197
called Manitobah House, where they were de-
lighted to cast off, for the remainder of the day,
the galling iron shoes, real instruments of torture,
which, long before they had done with them,
forced them with groans to acknowledge that
their feet were indeed made of clay. Whether
he was made of weak flesh and blood, was in
some measure put to the test by having a warm
couch spread for him in the corner of a large
room, round which, on wooden bedsteads, lay his
host Richards, his wife, and half-a-dozen grown-
up daughters!
Again, next morning, strapping on their un-
comfortable running-shoes, they passed at noon
through a narrow strait that gives the whole lake
the name of "Manitobah," or Evil Spirit; by
which the Saulteaux Indians believe it to have
been formerly haunted. According to their ac-
count terrible sounds used to be heard here, and
fearful sights seen; among others, huge snakes
with horns; and it was not till after the esta-
blishment of a trading post by the Canadians
(the bold Coureurs du Bois of French Canada,)
who with their singing and noise scared the de-
mons away, that the natives ventured to pass by
the place of dread.
The three following days were spent in passing
the extent of Winipegoos Lake. Leaving it on
198
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
*
the evening of the 11th, they encamped in a
wood of pines, the first they had yet met with.
Their evergreen branches form the favourite bed
of the winter voyageur, a comfort they did not
fail to enjoy. They were visited in the evening
by several Saulteaux Indians, who resort to a
neighbouring river. They brought a supply of
fresh fish, for which they were liberally paid;
and a share of the travellers' supper, and their
news, made the poor fellows quite happy. Here
they gladly hung upon the trees their painful
iron shoes.
The travelling through the wooded country
between the Winipegoos Lake and Swan River
was heavy and fatiguing. The path was un-
beaten and difficult to distinguish, save by the
practised eye of an Indian or half-breed guide.
The weather was mild and overcast,-unfitted,
therefore, for such severe exercise as the use of
the snow-shoe imposes; and the lakes and streams
which it was requisite to cross, had in many places
but a very slender coat of ice. On one occasion,
when engaged in a wide traverse, they came sud-
denly upon a space of weak ice only an inch
thick, and partially covered with water.
It was
an awkward predicament, for advance they must:
they therefore laid themselves upon the sledges,
and their weight thus pressing on an extended
THOMAS SIMPSON.
199
surface, their sagacious dogs carried them safely
over the danger.
Late in the evening of the 16th, they reached
Fort Pelly, after a hard day's march of thirty-
seven miles. This is a compact, well-ordered little
place, sheltered from the north by a range of
woods with the Assiniboine River winding a short
distance in front.
The 17th and 18th (Sunday) were made days
of rest; and Monday's cold might also have
formed an apology to lazy travellers for loitering.
The thermometer stood at-44° (76 degrees of
frost,) yet they took their departure early in the
forenoon.
At night it was so intensely cold, that my
brother literally burned his fingers with the sex-
tant, while taking the usual observations.
"The parching air
Burnt frore; and cold perform'd the effect of fire.”
MILTON.
He afterwards adopted the precaution of using
very thin chamois-leather gloves, and took obser-
vations at still lower temperatures, without in-
convenience.
This extreme cold, was but slightly modified,
during the eleven days which their journey from
Fort Pelly to Carlton occupied. Most part of
this route was through an open plain country-
200
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
the extensive prairie-land stretching from the
Saskatchewan to the Missouri River, of which
the distinguishing features are barren hills and
hollows, tossed together in a wave-like form, as if
an ocean had been suddenly petrified while
heaving its huge billows in a tumultuous swell.
The rough grass of this waste affords, at times,
food to countless herds of buffalo; but they did
not fall in with any indeed, my brother was so
bent on making a quick advance, that it may
be doubted whether he would have been desirous
of meeting those animals, notwithstanding his
extreme love for the chase. He kept always in
advance of his party, and enjoyed the hare and
partridge shooting which the more sheltered parts
of the track afforded. Nor was the produce of
his sport by any means an unwelcome addition to
the evening meal, for which a twelve hours' hard
walk in a freezing atmosphere, gives an appetite
which lacks no condiments, and laughs at dys-
pepsia.
On the forenoon of the 30th of December,
they arrived at Carlton, a trading-post situated on
the Saskatchewan River. They were greeted by
Mr. Pruden, the officer in charge, with a frank
and cordial welcome; and my brother agreed, at
his pressing request, to pass the " New-year"
holidays with him.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
201
This is a frontier post, much frequented by the
Indians of the prairies, and was in past times
a very dangerous position. High stockades sur-
round the buildings; at the corners are bastions
commanding the several entrances, in which
small field-pieces are mounted; and in a gallery
surrounding the whole square, there is a con-
tinuous range of wall-pieces-all standing loaded
and primed. These form a tolerable security
against attack from Indians-who will seldom,
even when in overwhelming numbers-attack
men whom they see prepared to resist; yet even
the preceding summer, they had several times
fired into the place.
Twelve servants and two officers form the gar-
rison of this little fortalice. A few years be-
fore, it was by no means unusual to see one
thousand families of Indians encamped around it;
but since the ravages of the small-pox, which
made fearful havoc among the prairie tribes in
the year 1834, the numbers of Indians who fre-
quent this establishment has been reduced to
one-fourth; and the survivors are much altered
and subdued in their bearing.
There were but very few Indians at this time
at the place; and these few were "Crees," the
most peaceable of the Prairie tribes. My brother
was anxious to have had intercourse with those
202
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
tribes, yet almost unaltered by intercourse with
white men; though disappointed in this wish, he
heard abundance of anecdotes and tales regarding
them, and descriptions of their habits and customs
both in war and peace, which when related on the
spot, had much of the effect of personal expe-
rience and observation. There, in the face of a
neighbouring hillock, was the stone which used to
be selected as a target, in order to show to ob-
serving Indians the effect of the field-pieces in
the bastion. Here was the hollow where had
lodged the ball of some bravo, who, mounting his
fiery steed, took a deliberate aim at the sentinel
in the gallery, trusting to his rapid flight to
escape the well-merited return. Below was the
plain on which hundreds of skin-covered wig-
wams were wont to be planted round the huge
council lodge, wherein the affairs of the tribe
were debated with as much earnestness and elo-
quence, and with infinitely more decorum than
often marks the discussions of the assembly in
St. Stephens. Beyond that was the ground on
which the young gallants exhibited their "won-
drous horsemanship," trying the mettle of their
wild steeds in races which would not disgrace
Newmarket; albeit the appearance of a Piegan
Jockey, "all painted and plumed in his naked
array," his bridle a piece of thong tied round his
THOMAS SIMPSON.
203
courser's lower jaw, his saddle a strip of buffalo-
skin, would occasion some amazement among his
velvet-capped, top-booted brethren of the English
turf.
Great fires running through the prairies had
driven the buffalo to a distance, and at this
the usual paradise of fat living, the residents
and visitors owed their holiday dainties to the
lucky accident of a Cree hunter killing a female
moose and her two fawns, within a short distance
of the establishment.
On the 2nd day of the year, (New Year's Day,
being a Sunday) a dance was given in the hall,
at which Mr. Pruden's fine family, with all the
other inmates, young and old, attended, decked
in their gayest attire, and gave full scope
to the passion for dancing inherent in all the
half-caste natives of this country; some of
my brother's travelling companions were reluc-
tantly compelled to abstain from this their fa-
vourite diversion, in consequence of having frozen
their heels in the cold journey across the bleak
prairies.
As this is the most extensive manufactory of
* 'Tis not alone in Scotland that the complaint might be
made, that "God sends the meat, but the devil the cooks;"
at these prairie posts the universal mode of cookery is to cut
the meat into junks, or slices, and to fry or stew these in
tallow!
204
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
pemican, and as that provand is frequently men-
tioned in the subsequent pages, it may be proper
to give a short account of the process of manu-
facture. It is perfectly cleanly. The meat,
which has been cut into thin flakes, and dried
in the sun by the hunters, is conveyed to the
establishment. It is there pounded in a mortar,
or by beating on an extended hide. The fat, ist
boiled in a cauldron, and skimmed of all impu-
rities; an equal quantity of pounded meat is
added to the fat, and the mixture is well stirred,
and poured hot into skin-bags. It hardens in
a few hours, and is fit either for immediate use,
or to be kept for three or four years. There is
a superior kind of pemican prepared from a
mixture of equal weights of pounded meat (ti
bits), marrow fat, and blue-berries: this forms
a composition, resembling in appearance a rich
plum-pudding, which is very palatable, particu-
larly when recently made. As to the nourish-
ing qualities of pemican, it is almost unnecessary
to give an opinion. Carbon for exhalation, fatty
matter for nourishment, nitrogenized matter for
muscle, are contained in abundance; but it is
an unpleasant diet when taken per se.
On the 4th of January 1837, my brother started
from Carlton, having his party reinforced with
fresh men and dogs. The route was now through
THOMAS SIMPSON.
205
**
a wooded country, where more snow had fallen,
and consequently the travelling was much better.
Seven days of hard marching, marked by nothing
out of the usual routine of such journeys, brought
him on the evening of the 10th, to the post of
Isle à la Crosse.
Here he was obliged to wait the arrival of an
express soon expected from Athabasca, in case
there should be any arrangements to make re-
specting the additional supply of goods and pro-
visions required for the expedition.
His host was Mr. Roderick Mackenzie, a hale
old Highlander, who has passed, by at least ten
years, the period described by the Psalmist as the
scope of man's existence. He has a neat and
comfortable little "Fort;" the fishery in the lake
close at hand yields a constant supply of fresh
and wholesome food, summer and winter; the
little farm is productive, and the few domestic
cattle maintained, were in excellent condition.
Altogether this northern octogenarian, though
placed "far in a wild unknown to public view,"
is to be envied rather than pitied: his greatest
grievance (who is without a grievance?) is-that
his Chipewayan Indians, who, being the most
provident of all the northern tribes, assume the
independent tone of warm men,—take a delight in
teazing their testy trader by telling him that "he
206
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
is too old-it's time for him to go and die in his
own country."
As a corollary to the preceding narrative, I
give the following extract from my brother's let-
ters to myself:-
"I quitted my kind friends at Red River, on
the evening of the 1st of December; and a walk
of two days in summer-like weather, with capital
rabbit shooting, brought me to Manitobah Lake.
On its slippery young ice we launched our dog-
sledges; and for eight days did we tramp along
it and the Winipegoos, obliged constantly to use
horrible iron machines called "crampets," which
we strapped on to our unfortunate feet with
leather thongs. We then followed a long and
intricate portage of 32 miles, with scarcely a par-
ticle of snow, to Swan Lake-tearing work, as
my gay curricle found to its cost. This occupied
two days through a woody country; and I had
time to make fine havoc among the pheasants and
partridges, which were very numerous. Changing
our course now from north-west to south-west,
three days' march along the Swan River landed us
at Fort Pelly on the Upper Assiniboine, where I
halted three days with George Setter, the post-
master in charge-a worthy quaint old fellow,
whom I think you saw at Red River. During
THOMAS SIMPSON.
207
our stay there, the weather became intensely cold,
the thermometer on the morning of our depar-
ture standing at-44° of Fahr. The severity of
the weather was greatly augmented, when we
emerged into the wide and unsheltered plains of
the Saskatchewan, by a stiff north-wester, which
compelled us for two days to muffle up all save
our eyes-each lash of which speedily resolved
itself in an icicle, and we had every now and then
to turn our backs to the blast, and thaw off
these optical obstructions with our fingers. The
prairies were all burnt, and in consequence we
fell in with no buffalo; but we saw a few tracks
of bulls and of moose, when we regained the
woods, or rather open bluffs, which form the coun-
try along the Bow River. On the banks of this
noble stream, one bright morning, we espied
four splendid red-deer inhaling the free breeze;
but the beautiful creatures took the alarm when
we endeavoured to creep towards them through
a woody hollow, and, darting down the eminence
on which they stood with the speed of lightning,
disappeared from our view.
The whole journey
from Fort Pelly to Carlton occupied ten days;
one of which was labour lost, through a blunder
of my guide, that made me resort to chart and
compass to recover our proper course.
The en-
campments were very bad throughout all this part
208
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of our route; and we considered ourselves fortu-
nate when, at the close of the day, we could find
a tolerable poplar hummock, with enough of dry
grass to lay our blankets on. My Christmas
couch was spread on willow branches; but my
new year was spent at Carlton, tripping it on the
light fantastic toe with the celebrated Miss
Maria Pruden. She is a long lacer, like poor
Swanson's flame at Red River, but she stoops
confoundedly: her air is awkward, and she
wants expression; in other respects, she is a
seemly lass enough. Pruden himself is a portly,
hospitable John Bull, fond of good eating. I
passed six days with him, and six more brought me
to this place (Isle à la Crosse) on the 10th instant,
where I was cordially welcomed, and have since
been most kindly entertained by that crabbed
but worthy old soul, Roderick Mackenzie. The
total distance from Fort Garry is about nine
hundred miles; I have travelled so far (and shall
continue to do so) entirely on foot, having
regularly surveyed the whole route, and am
highly pleased with the extreme accuracy of my
astronomical observations, which afforded me
much amusement in many a tedious encampment,
for, excepting from Carlton hither, we could
scarcely ever start before daylight.
"This is a nice quiet place, and the Chipewyans,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
209
in skill and perseverance as hunters, in foresight
and in honesty, present a marked contrast to
the worthless Crees and Saulteaux, among whom
I have so long been. We had a merry dance here,
and I have been quite the feasted pilgrim; but
my patience is at last run out, and I intend to
start this evening, and reach Fort Chipewyan on
the 1st of February."
On the 20th, the long looked-for couriers
arrived, with letters from Mr. Dease, communi-
cating the welfare of the expedition. After
writing on its affairs to the gentlemen in charge
of York Factory, Norway House, and Red River,
and being most liberally supplied by his worthy
friend Mr. Mackenzie with everything requisite
for the journey, my brother took his departure
the same night.
The route from Isle à la Crosse to Athabasca,
was precisely that followed by Sir John Franklin.
Adhering to the general line of the summer-
water communication, the road was not so readily
mistaken as heretofore, and they were able to
make a good part of their way during the night,
which all experienced snow-shoe travellers know
to be less wearisome to the spirits, than broad
day, when the traverses of lakes, and long reaches
of rivers, are seen in all their tedious extent, and
the eyes are oppressed by the glare of snow.
P
210
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
(
This was consequently the most rapid part of his
journey on the preceding part it can scarcely
be thought he loitered, seeing that he accom-
plished nine hundred and six miles in thirty-
four days.
Some time before daylight on the 23rd, he
viewed a magnificent display of the aurora
borealis, commencing with an arch of singular
lustre in the north, which suddenly flashed up
towards the zenith, and represented the interior
of a stupendous cone; the apex and upper part
being of a bright yellow hue, while the lower
assumed a very rich carmine colour. There was
scarcely time to examine this resplendent phe-
nomenon, when it disappeared.
In the afternoon of the same day, he witnessed,
while crossing a lake, an extraordinary effect of
the mirage caused by the rays of the evening sun.
It covered the land to the west with a mist-like
veil, and the ice even close around them seemed
to dance with a strange undulating motion, as if
tossed up and down by a heavy swell. Walking
about half a mile a-head of the party, and chanc-
ing to look back, the people seemed to him to
to be seated on their sledges; but on arrival at
the encampment, when he taxed them with their
laziness, they assured him that they had been
on foot the whole time, and that he appeared
THOMAS SIMPSON.
211
to them in a recumbent attitude, borne forward
as it were by some unseen power.
Travellers whose sole canopy-day and night—
is the sky, necessarily see and remark many of
Nature's phenomena.
On the morning of the 24th, they crossed
"Portage la Loche," the dividing height between
the waters falling into Hudson's Bay, and those
flowing to the Arctic Ocean. The snow was very
deep through this formidable barrier, and the
weather was heavy and overcast.
From the hills on the north side, a thousand
feet in height, they obtained that noble view of
the Clear Water River, which has been drawn with
so much taste and beauty by Sir George Back,
though the dark day and the livery of winter
were unfavourable to their full enjoyment of the
prospect.
The Indians sometimes strike off from a point
near this Portage, through a hilly, wooded coun-
try, direct to Athabasca Lake; and, as my
brother knew that a saving of at least two days
might be effected by that route, he was desirous
of adopting it but none of his men had ever
followed it; and, from the report of the natives,
they declared it to be impracticable for sledges :
they, therefore, turned their faces down the deep
and picturesque valley of the Clear Water River.
P 2
212
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
This valley is entirely sheltered from the in-
clement north and north-west winds; but its ex-
posure to the east usually renders the snow deep
and soft, as they found to their cost.
The timber here is larger and finer than could
be expected in so northern a region; one of
the pines, under the shelter of which they took
up their night's lodging, measured three yards
in girth, at five feet from the ground.
It is a fine country for the chase, and so little
frequented in the winter, that it may be re-
garded as an extensive preserve. Our travellers,
on several occasions, saw moose deer and wood
buffalo sunning their fat sides,-a sight suffi-
cient to make the mouths of pemican-eaters
water; but they were beyond reach, and, taking
the alarm, quickly disappeared.
The declivities of the hills seemed, as they
passed along, completely chequered with the
tracks of these and smaller animals. Why do not
some of our enthusiastic deer-stalkers make a foray
into this rich preserve ?
Through the deep soft snows of the valley,
as well as during the whole journey, my bro-
ther himself raised the road,-by far the most
fatiguing duty, ordinarily taken for alternate hours
by the members of a travelling party. The
dogs, in fact, were so accustomed to follow him,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
213
that, when at any time he quitted his usual
station, they stopped and kept looking wistfully
back;
and the whips of the drivers failed to
inspire them with the same ardour till he re-
sumed the lead, when they testified their satis-
faction by straining to keep at his heels, the
leader often thrusting forward his black muzzle
to be caressed. This fondness usually procured
him the close society of a whole posse of them
during the night, which, when not extremely
cold, was anything but agreeable.
In conse-
quence of his care and the good treatment they
received, half the number that left Red River
reached Athabasca, the longest continuous jour-
ney ever performed by the same dogs; the others
he exchanged on the route.
On the 27th, they came to the junction of
the Clear Water with the Athabasca River.
The mild weather, which had increased the toil
of travelling through the deep snows of the val-
ley, now inopportunely gave place to bitter cold.
A strong north wind blew, driving in their faces
a storm of snow, which almost blinded them,
and made the long bleak reaches of the Atha-
basca doubly dreary.
The bitter cold head-wind continued for the
four succeeding days; but fortunately the snow-
storm was of but one day and night's duration.
214
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
In the afternoon of the 1st of February, the
very day he had fixed on, before leaving Red
River, as that of his arrival at his destination,
he reached Fort Chipewyan, and was warmly wel-
comed by Mr. Smith, the officer in charge of the
district of country, and by Mr. Dease, his asso-
ciate in the expedition, who had not expected
his arrival for more than a month to come.
"Thus," writes my brother, "happily terminated
a winter journey of one thousand two hundred
and seventy-seven statute miles. In the wil-
derness, time and space seem equally a blank;
and for the same reason, the paucity of objects
to mark or diversify their passage.
"The real secret of the little account which
is made of distance in these North American
wilds is, that there is nothing to pay. Every
assistance is rendered to the traveller without fee
or reward, while health and high spirits smile
at the fatigues of the way."
The distances gone over, were as follows:-
From Fort Garry to Fort Pelly
From Fort Pelly to Carlton
From Carlton to Isle à la Crosse
Isle à la Crosse to Fort Chipewyan
Miles. Done in days.
394
15
276
12
236
7
371
12
1277
46
Being a daily average of 28 miles.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
215
CHAPTER XII.
Reasons for the Author's Preference of his Brother's Corre-
spondence to his Narrative.-Preliminary Arrangements of
the Expedition.-Feelings on entering on Arctic Discovery.
THE most vivid and comprehensive narrative
that ever was or ever will be written, the most
inflated eulogium ever pronounced, could not
arouse one tithe of the same admiration of the
supereminent merits of the great captain of the
age, as a perusal of his "Dispatches."
The wonderful clearness of his views on
every subject that came before him; the wisdom
of his plans-plans so comprehensive as to em-
brace the greatest principles and the minutest
details; the energy, promptness, and almost in-
variable success which marked their execution,
have all been rendered more evident to the
world by the publication of these imperishable
documents, than they were even by the glorious
victories which tranquillized Europe.
To say that, in a very narrow and compara-
tively very obscure sphere, some, if not all of
216
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
these attributes marked my brother's character
and career, will not, I think, be deemed the
effusion of fraternal partiality; and the parallel
may be carried still further by stating that his
“Narrative”* gives hardly a fair view of his
merits and exertions.
The high eulogiums which that narrative eli-
cited from the public press - eulogiums alike
general and unanimous, might induce a belief
that a transcript of it into these pages, would be
the best method of describing my brother's la-
bours and exertions. But a consideration of the
following points will, I think, show that such is
not the case. First: The narrative was one of the
operations of the expedition generally; the ex-
tent of his own services, and the fact that to these
services its success was wholly attributable, were,
with a proper and necessary modesty, either al-
together unrepresented, or represented in a very
subdued light. Secondly: the narrative was
penned with the view to immediate publication
during the writer's lifetime; and to have ob-
truded or represented in any way the peculiar
difficulties under which he laboured, in conse-
* "Narrative of The Discoveries on the North Coast of
America, effected by the Officers of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, during the Years 1836-39, by Thomas Simpson, Esq."
Bentley, 1843.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
217
quence of the arrangements of the body with
which he was connected, would have been impo-
litic and indiscreet.
There is no such restraint binding on me.
A complete exposition of the virtues, the talents,
and the services of an adored brother prematurely
cut off in the pride of youth, and bloom of
success, is the task which I undertook in pen-
ning these pages; and to effect this in a manner
that can utterly absolve me from all imputa-
tion of false colouring, requires-indeed, can only
be done by, a selection from his own correspon-
dence.
It must not, however, be supposed, that a
cursory glance at either his narrative or his cor-
respondence will give a full view of the labours,
fatigues, and privations which he underwent
during Arctic discovery. To this fact an acute
critic thus adverts in his notice of the "Nar-
rative." "We suspect that the full extent
of suffering and privation, or what other people
would call suffering and privation, is not fully
impressed upon the reader; because use has so
"bred a habit," that whatever may be suffered,
appears part and parcel of the laws of nature
around them. To navigate an icy and a stormy
sea in open boats to have the spray freeze
upon the rigging and the oars in dog days; to
218
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
be reduced to go without fire, either for warmth
or cookery; to wade, waist high, through rivers
or arms of the sea, when the thermometer was
below freezing point; to have wet incrust your
garments in ice, as with a robe; and lie down
in a wet boat, and be frozen to the planks-all
look like the extreme of misery to people at
home; yet, as long as health lasts, they seem
to be excitement; and even during sickness, to
be borne as a common lot."
The first section of correspondence details the
preliminary arrangements of the expedition, and
his feelings on entering on Arctic discovery.
To the Governor and Council of the
Northern Department (of Hudson's Bay).
“GENTLEMEN,
Fort Chipewyan, May 31st, 1837.
"We have the honour to report on the progress
and plans of the northern-discovery expedition
since Chief Factor Dease's communication of the
3rd of January.
"Mr. Simpson arrived here from Red River
on the 1st of February, bringing with him two
of the expedition people, and some good dogs,
for the projected establishment at Great Bear
Lake.
"After an anxious consideration of our means,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
219
and the services expected from us, we resolved
to depart so far from the strict letter of your
instructions of the 2nd of July, as to descend
to the Arctic Sea this summer, with two small
boats instead of one of larger dimensions. A
craft of the latter description could scarcely
be carried over the icy reefs which we may ex-
pect to find obstructing our passage along the
coast; nor would a single boat so effectually pro-
vide for the safety or the success of our under-
taking. The scarcity of timber of any size near
the proposed winter quarters, may, besides, render
it a matter of importance to bring thither such
boats as, if not much injured this season, can be
transported to the Coppermine River next spring,
and thus serve for both voyages. This measure
renders it necessary to employ two additional
hands, (whom Chief Factor Smith has kindly
provided,) which, for the reasons above assigned,
we have no doubt you will sanction.
"John Ritch, with three men, and three Chipe-
wyan hunters, engaged for Great Bear Lake,
will proceed direct thither to erect the necessary
buildings, where they will deposit such goods as
we do not require on the coast; and a portion of
the provisions for our eastern voyage in advance.
The remainder of these provisions, together with
our outfit of 1838, amounting to nearly eighty
220
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
pieces, will be transported to Fort Simpson by C.
T. McPherson, a boat having been repaired here
for that purpose; and this being an object of the
utmost importance to our eventual operations, we
hope that Mr. McPherson has been authorized to
employ the new hands destined for Mackenzie's
River in conveying that property to the winter
quarters of the expedition, as the people there
cannot possibly come for it, and the late period
at which we may hope to return from the coast,
precludes the probability of our being then able
to render it to its destination.
"No Esquimaux interpreter having been for-
warded from Churchill, we shall endeavour to
induce one or two of the Loucheux about Fort
Good Hope, who understand something of that
language, to accompany us this summer along
the coast.
"We should be wanting in proper feeling
were we to close the report of our arrangements
thus far, without expressing our lively sense
of the obligations which the expedition and
ourselves personally lie under to Chief-Factor
Smith, for his prompt and liberal compliance
with, and even anticipation of, our wants.
leave Fort Chipewyan with boats equipped and
provisioned in such a manner as to inspire
confident hopes of success in our exertions
We
THOMAS SIMPSON.
221
towards completing the geographical outline of
this great continent.
"Chief-Factor A. R. Macleod has handsomely
volunteered to meet us with a party of Chipe-
wyans, at the mouth of Great Fish River in
the summer of 1838, and to conduct us from
thence to Great Slave Lake. This plan would
ensure us a safe retreat when to return along
the coast might be no longer practicable; and
we cannot, therefore, too strongly recommend it
to your favourable consideration.*
"The Athabasca waters are uncommonly low;
but a mild winter, succeeded by a mild spring,
gives fair promise of an early navigation; and
to-morrow we take our departure with the view
* Mr. Macleod was (he died in 1840) a fine specimen of
the voyageur of the old school-hardy, enterprising, delight-
ing in rather than shrinking from privation and fatigue,—a
skilful fisherman, an unerring rifle-shot. "Let me have," said
this northern rover, "a hundredweight of powder, three hun-
dredweight of shot, a blanket, coat, and gun, for each of my
Indians, and I'll meet you on the coast with provisions enough
and to spare." His experience and energy leave no doubt
that he would have amply redeemed his promise. The stores
of the expedition couldn't furnish such a supply; its officers
had no authority to appropriate Mr. Macleod to their pur-
poses; they wrote (as we see above) however, recommending
the acceptance of Mr. Macleod's spirited offer, but "cold,
faint-hearted doubtings" rose in the minds of those to whom
the application was addressed; and they declined it on the
plea of want of authority.
222
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of reaching the sea at the latest on the 1st of
July.
"With the highest respect and regard,
"We have the honour to be, Gentlemen,
"Your most obedient servants,
"P. W. DEASE.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
LETTER TO GOVERNOR SIMPSON.
"DEAR SIR,
Fort Chipewyan, May 31st, 1837.
"As we are on the eve of our departure for the
polar regions, I seize the opportunity of address-
ing you, in the hope that you have by this time
safely reached the shores of Lake Winipeg.
"The winter was mild with little snow, the
spring has been pleasant though lingering, and
the waters are very low.
"I have now been four months here, but have
not spent that long interval unprofitably; and my
astronomical observations, I am glad to find,
correspond exactly with Captain Franklin's. My
walk from Red River has invigorated me in body
and in mind; and the mere "office man
is
laid aside for a sphere of action more congenial
to both my taste and my acquirements. Though
deprived of the command after it had been first held
""
THOMAS SIMPSON.
223
out to me, and was, I think, my due, yet I enter
on this enterprise with confidence and alacrity.
It holds out to my imagination the prospect
of realizing some, at least, of the romantic as-
pirations which first led me to the New World,
and disappointment has given place to ardent
hope. There is but one painful thought which
mingles with and clouds that feeling-it is that
if it be my fate to perish on this expedition, my
mother will be left in comparative indigence; yet
I trust that in such an event the Company, with
their usual high sense of honour, would make
an adequate provision for her. I know not
whether my brother still remains in the service
or has embraced some more promising line of
life: but wherever his lot may be cast I feel
satisfied, from my high opinion of him (which
detraction has only served to enhance), that he
will do well.
"We have received Captain Back's journal by
the winter express.
It contains, indeed, little
thought, with no small portion of French sen-
timentality and self-admiration; but, altogether,
I think that he has made the most of his subject,
which was not a fertile one.
"Mr. Christie has forwarded to Mr. Dease an
extract of a letter from Governor Pelly, stating
that Captain Back's present voyage of discovery
224
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
was not to arrest or interfere with any expe-
dition which you
the same object.
might have set on foot for
This is most gratifying to
us, and our utmost energies shall be put forth
to reach the "Pole"* first; or at least to win a
share of the prize. I hope that you have, this
spring, ordered out Captain Ross's Journal, and
the additional instruments &c., requested by me,
as they are all essentially necessary.
I have procured from two intelligent Chipe-
wyans a minute chart of the routes by the
"Thelewdessey," and the Kasandessey, or White
Partridge River, from Athabasca Lake to Ches-
terfield Inlet, into which, beyond a doubt,
they empty their waters, after flowing respect-
ively through the Doobaunt and Yath-kyed
Lakes of Hearne. The latter stream is rapid,
and navigable only for Indian canoes; but the
former is described as broad, deep, and interrupt-
ed by only one cataract, below which the Chipe-
wyans had their friendly rencontre with the
Esquimaux last summer. There is said to be
but one considerable portage of about two miles
in the whole route, which were it properly,
explored, might at some future time prove
the most eligible channel of communication
* The magnetic Pole, is of course meant.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
225
between the Northern Districts and Hudson's
Bay.
"I think it fortunate that Mr. Dease deter-
mined on wintering at this place, which pos-
sessed a blacksmith, and many other means
for the building and complete equipment of our
boats, and the supply of other wantages, which
Great Slave Lake could not have afforded.
The abundant fishery, too, enabled Mr. Smith to
keep the people concentrated; and much useful
work has in consequence been got through, which
could not have been done had they been scattered
about searching for subsistence. Besides it is
here, of course, that our whole stock of pemican
for this summer can be embarked. The requisite
arrangements for the transport to Great Bear
Lake of our supplies for 1838, are detailed in
the public letters; and the substitution of two
small boats for a larger one this season is a
measure that will materially contribute both to
the safety, and to the success of the expedi-
tion.
*
*
*
"With sincere best wishes,
*
"I have the honour to be, dear Sir,
"Ever yours faithfully,
THOMAS SIMPSON."
226
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS TO THE AUTHOR.
Red River, November 30th, 1836.
"I myself would have been ere now thorough-
ly disgusted with this service, had not a ray of
light shone, all of a sudden, upon my path, in
the shape of a mission to the Arctic regions,
where, having shaken off the trammels of pounds,
shillings, and pence, I hope to achieve something
worthy of the education and talents bestowed
upon me. In previous letters, I described to you
our plan of operations; and, to-morrow, I depart
on my long and uncertain journey. My only ap-
prehension now is, that Captain Back's proposed
expedition in H. M. S. 'Terror,' to Repulse Bay,
(which I saw noticed in one of the last Albions,)
may interfere with our eastern voyage; but I
am uncharitable enough to wish that the same
ice which has prevented the Prince Rupert from
reaching York, may have also shut out the gal-
lant captain, in which case we shall endeavour
to save him all further trouble.
"Since my return from Norway House, my
time has been chiefly devoted to astronomy,
surveying, and chart drawing; my old mathe-
matics were more readily polished up than I
anticipated; and I have all those branches now
at my fingers' ends. I have, likewise, read a
THOMAS SIMPSON.
227
A
good deal, with the hope of getting rid of the
stiff and ungraceful style of Rupert's land cor-
respondence, which is still jarring in my ears,
and marring the freedom of the pen that may
ere long have to figure before the public.
"For our poor mother's sake, even more
than my own, I pray for success in my present
enterprise. But I know, that if the worst hap-
pen to me, you will cherish her; for she will
then doubly need your affectionate support."
Fort Chipewyan, May 31st, 1837.
"The waters are very low, which has retarded
the final disappearance of the ice; but we are
now ready for a start to-morrow. We have two
excellent boats for the coast-light, and of light
draught, each adapted for six men; besides a
third of larger dimensions for Great Bear Lake.
We are thoroughly provided with provisions,
clothing, and every necessary; confident in our-
selves, and in our arrangements, we look up to
the Ruler of the elements for a successful issue
to our undertaking. Captain Back's present
'terrific' voyage is not to interfere with ours;
and we are in high hopes of reaching the Pole
first, perhaps dining there together. His book is
a painted bauble, all ornament and conceit, and
no substance.
22
228
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"Hurrah for a Husky wife! I have got the
portrait of mine at full length in Captain Frank-
lin's last voyage. Our worthy mother favoured
me with some lengthy strictures respecting In-
dian connexions. What would she say to see
me figuring by-and-by with a young Esqui-
maux wife, and a pair of urchins in her boots?"
4
THOMAS SIMPSON.
229
CHAPTER XIII.
Expedition from Mackenzie's River to Point Barrow.-Sum-
mer 1837.-Letters to the Directors of the Hudson's Bay
Company, Governor Simpson, and the Author.-Opinions
of the Press in regard to the Expedition's first Operations.
LETTER TO THE DIRECTORS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY
COMPANY.
Fort Norman, September 5th, 1837.
"HONOURABLE SIRS,
"We have now the honour to report the com-
plete success of the expedition this summer to
the westward of Mackenzie's River.
"Our arrangements up to the departure of
the expedition from Fort Chipewyan were stated
in full to Governor Simpson and the Northern
Council, who, no doubt, communicated them to
your Honours; we shall, therefore, present a
brief detail of our subsequent operations.
"On the 1st of June we quitted Fort Chipe-
wyan, with two small sea-boats, accompanied
by a luggage-boat and a party of hunters, for
Great Bear Lake; visited the salt plains, and
arrived at Great Slave Lake on the 10th, where
230
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
we were detained by ice until the 21st. The
same cause prolonged our passage across that in-
land sea, and, having been for two days stopped
by a strong contrary wind at the head of Mac-
kenzie's River, it was the 1st of July when we
reached Fort Norman. Our Indians cast up
on the following day, and the crews and cargoes
were finally divided and arranged. Our boat-
builder, John Ritch, received his instructions to
proceed immediately, with a fisherman, two other
labourers, and the hunters, to Great Bear Lake,
and at its north-eastern extremity to erect our
winter-quarters, and lay in a stock of provisions
against our return from the coast. We then
took our departure, and on the 4th reached
Fort Good Hope. There we found an assem-
blage of Hare Indians and Loucheux.
latter informed us that three of their tribe had
been killed, and a fourth severely wounded by
the Esquimaux in the preceding month, which at
once put an end to our intention of procuring an
interpreter from among them, although several
volunteered to accompany us in that capacity.
They at the same time earnestly cautioned us
to beware of the treacherous arts of their ene-
mies. On the 9th of July, we reached the ocean
by the most westerly mouth of the Mackenzie,
which Sir John Franklin sought for in vain.
The
THOMAS SIMPSON.
231
It is situated in lat. 68° 49′ N., long. 136° 37′
W., and perfectly answers the description which
the Esquimaux messengers gave of it to that
officer when they came to apprise him of the
intended attack by the Mountain Indians.
"We had proceeded but a short distance to sea-
ward when a party of nineteen men came off to us
from Tent Island. We gave each of them a
small present, a practice which we continued
throughout the voyage, and employed our vo-
cabularies to the best of our ability, and to their
great surprise, to explain the friendly feeling of
the whites towards their tribe. Being a lively
and communicative people, we in the course of
the season acquired some facility in our inter-
course with them, and when words failed, signs
supplied their place, so that we seldom expe-
rienced much difficulty in making ourselves un-
derstood, or in comprehending their meaning.
When indulged, however, they always became
daring and excessively troublesome, and they
were ever on the look-out for plunder. On
this first meeting they made several unsuccessful
attempts in that way; and it was no easy matter to
induce them to return to their camp after we had
finished our business with them. They said, they
wished to accompany us to our encampment,
where they would have soon been joined by fresh
DorM
232
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
parties; and we had a shoal and dangerous na-
vigation before us that night. We therefore
peremptorily ordered them back; but it was not
until we fired a ball over their heads, that they
put about and paddled off. A storm soon after
arose; but we made the land in safety the follow-
ing morning at Shingle Point, in lat. 69°, where we
were detained until the 11th. The thermometer
had already fallen to 48° (Falır.), being 30° lower
than on the evening we left the Mackenzie
River; and, instead of the bright and beautiful
weather we enjoyed in our descent of that noble
stream, we were now doomed to travel in cold
dense fogs, which enveloped us during nearly
the whole of our progress along the coast. But,
although they perplexed and retarded us, we
never allowed them to arrest our course; nor
did we ever throughout the voyage encamp, but
when compelled to do so by ice or contrary
winds, to which line of conduct may, under
Providence, be ascribed the early and successful
accomplishment of our undertaking. In the af-
ternoon of the 11th of July, we reached Point
Key, where we were detained by a compact
body of ice, occupying Phillip's Bay, until the
14th. There we were visited by another party
of Esquimaux, whose tents were pitched at no
great distance from us. They live in the coun-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
233
try, bordering on Babbage River, and informed
us that, except when flooded by the melting of
the mountain snows, it is an insignificant stream,
not fifty yards in breadth of this we had ocular
proof in a clear day on our return. A hand-
some flora was collected in this neighbourhood.
Having found a passage through the ice in Phil-
lip's Bay, we reached Herschel Island the same
evening, (14th July), and had intercourse with
other parties of the natives, who were pretty nu-
We found
merous along this part of the coast.
on the island the skull of a whale eight feet in
breadth; and whalebone is everywhere an ar-
ticle in extensive use among the natives, es-
pecially for the making of their nets, and the
fastenings of their sledges. We continued our
route before an easterly wind, along and through
the ice, with very little interruption till two
A.M. of the 17th, when an unbroken pack, ex-
tending to seaward, made us seek the shore
in Camden Bay, near a considerable camp of Es-
quimaux. As soon as the fears of the latter
were removed, an amicable meeting took place;
and, having made them the usual presents, we
purchased a good many of their mouth orna-
ments, weapons and other articles, which will
be forwarded in due course to the Hudson's Bay
House. Three of the men were remarkable for
234
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
their good looks, upright figures, and a stature
of from five feet ten to six feet. They gave
us a specimen of their dances, and one of them
afterwards won the palm from all our people
at leaping. They informed us that they have
two sources of trade; the first and most regular
with their countrymen, who come annually from
the westward; the other with the Mountain In-
dians, who use fire-arms, and travel a great way
across land from the direction of the Russian
settlements. They showed us the knives, iron-
kettles, beads, and other things thus procured,
which we have no doubt are of Russian manu-
facture. Their means of repayment appeared
to us very limited, consisting in seal-skins, whale-
bone, ivory, and a few inferior furs, viz., wol-
vereens, foxes, and musk-rats. A pair of indif-
ferent beaver gloves was purchased from them,
which they had probably procured from the
Mountain Indians, for we saw no other symp-
tom of the existence of that valuable animal
near the coast, though it doubtless abounds at
some distance up the large wooded rivers which
we subsequently discovered. In the afternoon,
there appeared a narrow lane of water stretching
outwards, and we immediately embarked. We
had advanced about three miles from the land,
when the ice suddenly closed upon us, before a
THOMAS SIMPSON.
235
:
strong north-east wind; one of the boats got
squeezed, and it was only by throwing out the
cargo upon the floating masses, that she was
saved from destruction. By means of portages
made from one piece to another, the oars serving
as bridges, the cargo was all recovered, and both
boats finally hauled up on a large floe, where we
passed an inclement and anxious night. Next
morning the gale abated, the ice relaxed a little
around us, and by a long circuit we regained
the shore, about a league to the eastward of
our former position. There we were detained
till midnight of the 19th, when a favourable
wind enabled us to round the body of ice at a
distance of four miles from the land; and, con-
tinuing, carried us on the 20th into Foggy Is-
land Bay. There we were stopped by the ice
and a violent north-east wind until the 23rd,
having on the preceding day made an ineffectual
attempt to weather Point Anxiety, in which we
narrowly escaped, with a thorough drenching. The
latitude ashore was 70° 10'. From this situation
we had the satisfaction of discovering, during a clear
afternoon, a range of the rocky mountains to the
westward of the Romanzoff chain, and not seen by
Sir John Franklin; but, being within the limit of
his survey, we called it the Franklin Range,'
as a just tribute to his character and merits.
236
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
On the 23rd we again set sail, rounded the
pack of ice, which extended six miles to sea-
ward from Yarborough Inlet, then, abruptly turn-
ing in, we supped near Return Reef, and the
survey commenced.
"Return Reef is one of a chain of reefs and
islets which runs for twenty miles parallel to the
coast, at the distance of about half a league, af-
fording water enough within for such light craft
as ours; the mainland is very low. From 'Point
Berens' to 'Cape Halkett' (named after two
members of your Honourable Board) it forms a
great bay, fifty miles broad by a third of that
depth, which in honour of the Deputy-Governor
was named Harrison's Bay." At the bottom
of this bay another picturesque branch of the
Rocky Mountain range-the last seen by us-
rears its lofty peaks above these flat shores: we
called them 'Pelly's Mountains,' in honour of the
Governor of the Company. At their base flows
a large river, two miles broad at its mouth, which
we named after Andrew Colville, Esq. This
river freshens the water for many miles, and its
alluvial deposits have rendered Harrison's Bay
so shallow, that it was not till after a run of
twenty-five hours, during which we had repeatedly
to stand well out to seaward, that we could effect
a landing on a grounded iceberg, nine miles to
THOMAS SIMPSON.
237
the south-west of Cape Halkett. A north-east
gale kept us there the whole of the following
day. The country extending to the foot of the
mountains appeared to consist of plains covered
with short grass and moss, the favourite pasture
of the reindeer, of which we saw numerous herds.
Observations were obtained, determining our po-
sition to be in lat. 70° 43′ N., long. 152° 14' W.;
variation of the compass 40° E. Next morning
(26th July) the tide rose nearly two feet at six
A M., and enabled us safely to cross the shoals.
At no great distance from our encampment we
passed the mouth of another large river, one
mile broad, whose banks were thickly lined with
drift timber. We named it the 'Garry,' in
honour of Nicholas Garry, Esq. Cape Halkett
forms the extreme point of a small island, sepa-
rated from the main shores by a narrow channel
too shallow for boats. Its situation was likewise
found by observation to be in lat. 70° 48′ N.,
long. 151° 55′ W. It appears to be a place of
resort to the Esquimaux, for we found a spot
where they had been building their baidars last
spring. We suppose them to have been part of
a very large camp, which we saw in the bay of
Staines River, as we sailed past the east end of
Flaxman Island on the 20th of July; that this
camp consisted of the western traders of that
238
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
tribe, on their annual journey to meet their
eastern brethren at Barter Island; and that we
missed them on our return, from the circum-
stance of their being then dispersed along the
rivers, lakes, and in the skirts of the mountains
hunting the reindeer.
"From thence the coast turned suddenly off
to the west-north-west. It presented nothing to
the eye but a succession of low banks of frozen
mud. The ice was heavy all along, but there
were narrow channels close to the shore; the
soundings on these averaged one fathom on
sandy bottom. In the evening we passed the
mouth of a considerable river, which was named
after William Smith, Esq. From thence, for
about six miles, the coast-line is formed of gravel
reefs, near the extremity of which, at 'Point
Pitt,' (called after another member of your
Honourable Board,) the land trends more to the
westward. The ice lay much closer here; nume-
rous masses adhered to the bottom under the
water, which obliged us to search for a passage
out from the shore. The night was dark and
stormy, and we were in considerable danger;
one of the rudders gave way, but we at length
effected a landing on a place near an immense
reindeer pound. This was ingeniously formed
by the Esquimaux with double rows of turf, set
THOMAS SIMPSON.
239
We
up on a ridge of ground enclosing a hollow four
miles by two, the end farthest from the beach ter-
minating in a lake, into which the unsuspecting
animals are driven, and there despatched with
spears. The vegetable soil in this vicinity was
barely four inches in depth, beneath which the clay
was frozen as hard as rock, so that our tent pickets
could not be driven home. The men had to go
a good mile to find a log or two of drift-wood
for fuel, the scarcity of which essential article is
doubtless the chief cause of the want of inhabi-
tants along so great a portion of the coast.
were detained at this place till the following
afternoon (27th), when the ice opening a little,
enabled us to resume our route. It blew a cut-
ting blast from the north-east, and the salt water
froze upon the oars and rigging. 'Point Drew,'
called after Richard Drew, Esq., seven miles dis-
tant from our last encampment, is the commence-
ment of a bay of considerable size, but extremely
shallow, and much encumbered with ice, in push-
ing through which the boats received several
blows; and we had on this, as on many other
occasions, to admire their excellent workmanship.
To seaward the ice was still smooth and solid,
as in the depth of a sunless winter. At midnight
we reached a narrow projecting point, across
which the peaks of some high icebergs appeared,
240
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and were from a distance mistaken for lodges of
the natives. This point we named 'Cape George
Simpson,' as a mark of respect for our worthy
governor. It was destined to be the limit of our
boat navigation, for during the four following
days we were only able to advance as many miles.
The weather was foggy and dismally cold, the
wild fowl passed in long flights to the westward,
and there seemed little prospect of our being
able to reach Point Barrow by water. • Boat
Extreme' is situated in lat. 71° 3′ N., long. 154°
26′ W.; variation of the compass, 42° E.
"Under the above circumstances Mr. Simp-
son undertook to complete the journey on foot,
and accordingly started on the 1st of August
with a party of five men. They carried with
them their arms, some ammunition, pemican, a
small oiled canvas canoe for the crossing of rivers,
the necessary astronomical instruments, and a
few trinkets for the natives. It was one of the
worst days of the whole season, and the fog was
so dense, that the pedestrians were under the
necessity of rigidly following the tortuous outline
of the coast, which for twenty miles formed a
sort of irregular inland bay, (being guarded with-
out by a series of gravel reefs,) the shore of which
was almost on a level with the water, and inter-
sected innumerable salt creeks, through which
THOMAS SIMPSON.
241
they waded, besides three considerable rivers or
inlets, which they traversed in their portable
canoe. They found at one place a great many
large wooden sledges, joined with whalebone and
strongly shod with horn. Mr. Simpson conjec-
tures that these vehicles were left there by the
western Esquimaux, already spoken of, on their
eastward journey, to be resumed again on their
return, when winter sets in. The tracks of rein-
deer were everywhere numerous. Next day the
weather improved, and at noon the latitude 71°
10' was observed. The land now inclined to the
south-west, and continued very low, muddy, and,
as on the preceding day, abounding in salt creeks,
whose waters were at the freezing temperature.
The party had proceeded about ten miles, when,
to their dismay, the coast suddenly turned off to
the southward, forming an inlet extending as far
as the eye could reach; at the same moment
they descried, at no great distance, a sinall camp
of the western Esquimaux, to which they imme-
diately directed their steps. The men were
absent hunting, and the women and children took
to their boats in the greatest alarm, leaving be-
hind them an infirm man, who was in an agony of
fear. A few words of friendship removed his
apprehensions, and brought back the fugitives,
who were equally surprised and delighted to
R
242
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
behold white men. They set before the party
fresh reindeer-meat and seal-oil, and besought
them for tobacco (tawaccah), of which, men,
women, and even children, are inordinately fond.
Mr. Simpson now determined to adopt a more
expeditious mode of travelling, and applied for the
loan of one of their "oomiaks" or family canoes,
to convey the party to Point Barrow, with which,
from a chart drawn by one of the most intelligent
of the women, it appeared that these people
were acquainted. The request was immediately
complied with; four oars were fitted with lash-
ings to this strange craft, and the ladies declared
that our party were true Esquimaux and not
Kabloonan." Before starting, the hunters ar-
rived, and were likewise gratified with tobacco,
awls, buttons, and other trifles. "Dease's Inlet"
is five miles broad at this place, yet so low is the
land, that the one shore is just visible from the
other, in the clearest weather. It now again
blew strongly from the north-east, bringing back
the cold dense fog, but the traverse was effected
by aid of the compass. The waves ran high, and
the skin boat surmounted them with a buoyancy
which far surpassed that of our boasted north
canoes. The party encamped on the west side of
the inlet. The banks there were of frozen mud
ten or twelve feet high; the country within was
66
THOMAS SIMPSON.
243
perfectly flat, abounded in small lakes, and pro-
duced a very short grass, but nowhere had the
thaw penetrated more than two inches beneath
the surface, while under water along the shore,
the bottom was still impenetrably frozen. Not a
log of wood was to be found in this land of deso-
lation, but our party followed the example of the
natives, and made their fire of the roots of the
dwarf-willow in a little chimney of turf. Next
morning (August 3rd) the fog cleared for awhile,
but it was still bitterly cold, and the swell beat
high on the outside of a heavy line of ice which
lay packed on the shore. The latter, after ex-
tending five miles to the northward, turned off
to the north-west, beyond which the latitude 71°
13' was observed. From this point the coast
trended more westerly for ten miles, until the
party came to what appeared a large bay, where
they stopped for two or three hours, to await the
dispersion of the fog, not knowing which way to
steer. In the evening their wish was gratified,
and from that time the weather became com-
paratively fine. The bay was now ascertained to
be only four miles in width: the depth half way
across, was one fathom and a half on a bottom of
sand; that of Dease's Inlet was afterwards found
to be two fathoms, muddy bottom, being the
greatest depth between Return Reef and Point
R 2
244
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Barrow, except at ten miles south-east from Cape
Halkett, where three fathoms
three fathoms on sand were
sounded on our return. After crossing "Mac-
kenzie's Bay" the coast again trended for eight
or nine miles to the W.N.W. A compact body
of ice extended all along, and beyond the reach of
vision to seaward; but the party carried their light
vessel within that formidable barrier, and made
their way through the narrow channels close to
the shore. At midnight they passed the mouth
of a fine deep river, a quarter of a mile wide, to
which Mr. Simpson gave the name of "The
Belle Vue," and in less than an hour after-
wards, the rising sun gratified him with the view
of Point Barrow stretching out to the N.N.W.
They soon crossed Elson Bay, (which in the per-
fect calm had acquired a coating of young ice,)
but had no small difficulty in making their way
through a broad and heavy pack that rested upon
the shore. On reaching it, and seeing the ocean
extending away to the southward on the opposite
side of the Point, they hoisted their flag, and
with three cheers took possession of their disco-
veries in his Majesty's name.
"Point Barrow is a long low spit, composed of
gravel and coarse sand, which the pressure of
the ice has forced up into numerous mounds,
that, viewed from a distance, assume the appear-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
245
ance of huge boulder rocks. At the spot where
the party landed, it is only a quarter of a mile
across, but is broader towards its termination.
The first object that presented itself on looking
round the landing-place, was an immense ceme-
tery. The bodies lay exposed in the most hor-
rible and disgusting manner; and many of them
appeared so fresh, that some of the men became
alarmed that the cholera or some other dread-
ful disease was raging among the natives. Two
considerable camps of the latter stood at no
great distance on the Point; but none of the
inmates ventured to approach till our party first
visited them, and with the customary expressions
of friendship dissipated their apprehensions. A
brisk traffic then commenced, after which the
women formed a circle and danced to a variety
of airs, some of which were pleasing to the ear.
The whole conduct of these people was friendly
in the extreme; they seemed to be well acquaint-
ed with the character if not the persons of white
men; were passionately fond of tobacco; and
when any of the younger people were too for-
ward, the seniors restrained them, using the
French phrase, "c'est assez," which, like "ta-
waccah," they must have learned from the Rus-
sian traders. They designate the latter “Noona-
tagmun;" and a respectable-looking old man
246
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
readily took charge of a letter addressed by Mr.
Simpson to them, or to any other whites on the
western coast, containing a brief notice of the
proceedings of the expedition. To the north-
ward, enormous icebergs covered the ocean; but
on the western side there was a fine open chan-
nel, which the Esquimaux assured the party
extended all along to the southward; and so
inviting was the prospect in that direction, that,
had such been his object, Mr. Simpson would
not have hesitated a moment to prosecute the
voyage to Cook's Inlet in his skin canoe. The
natives informed him, that whales were numerous
to the northward of the Point; and seals were
everywhere sporting among the ice. These Es-
quimaux were well clothed in seal and reindeer
skins; the men all used mouth ornaments; and
the "tonsure" on the crown of the head was
universal among both men and boys; the women
had their chins tattooed, but did not wear the
lofty top-knots of hair which are fashionable to
the eastward. They were very inquisitive about
the names of our party, and equally communica-
tive of their own. A number of their words
were taken down, some of which are different
from the corresponding terms given by Sir Ed-
ward Parry, but the greater part are either the
same or dissimilar only in their terminations.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
247
They lay their dead on the ground, with their
heads all turned to the north. There was nothing
else either in their manners or habits remark-
ed as differing from the well-known charac-
teristics of the tribe, except an ingenious and
novel contrivance for capturing wild fowl. It
consists of six small perforated ivory balls, at-
tached separately to cords of sinew three feet
long, the ends of which being tied together, an
expanding sling is thus formed, which, dexter-
ously thrown up at the birds as they fly past,
entangles and brings them to the ground.
"Mr. Simpson could not learn that there had
been any unusual mortality among this part of
the tribe, and is of opinion that the concourse
of natives who frequent Point Barrow at differ-
ent periods of the year, coupled with the cold-
ness of the climate, sufficiently account for the
numerous remains already noticed. It was high
water between one and two o'clock A.M. and P.M.;
the rise of the tide was fourteen inches; and
the flood came from the westward. Observa-
tions were obtained which determined the posi-
tion of the landing-place to be in lat. 71° 23
N., long. 156° 20′ W., agreeing closely with the
observations of Mr. Elson. Then, bidding adieu
to their good-humoured and admiring entertain-
ers, the party set out on their return. They
248
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
were arrested that evening by the ice; but next
morning, (August 5,) it opened and allowed them
to proceed. At a late hour they reached the
camp of the Esquimaux in Dease's Inlet; and,
after liberally recompensing them for the loan
of their canoe, directed some of the men to fol-
low to Boat Extreme, where it would be left
for them. Then continuing their route all night,
at five A.M. on the 6th, the party rejoined the
main body of the expedition.
·
We commenced our return the same after-
noon and, being favoured by a light wind, and an
almost open sea, we sailed all night; and, next
day, (August 7,) at noon, reached Cape Halkett.
We then steered across Harrison's Bay: the wind
increasing to a gale we shipped much water, but
persevering, under treble-reefed sails, at three
P.M. of the 8th, we landed safely at Fawn
River,' within view of the point where our sur-
vey commenced. The position of this encamp-
ment was ascertained by good observations, to
be in lat. 70° 25′ N., long. 148° 25′ W. The
gale having moderated, we re-embarked the fol-
lowing afternoon; and, running without intermis-
sion before a fresh breeze, we reached Demarcation
Point to breakfast on the 11th. Several showers
of snow fell during this run, and it was piercingly
cold. The Romanzoff and British mountains had
THOMAS SIMPSON.
249
assumed the early livery of another winter. The
ice in Camden Bay was still very heavy; but it
protected us from the dangerous swell to which
we became exposed after passing Barter Island.
Soon after leaving Demarcation Point, the ice
became so closely wedged, that we could no
longer pursue our way through it. The follow-
ing day, (August 12,) it opened a little, and the
weather becoming fine, we put out and advanced
for a few hours, when the mountainous swell and
heavy ice obliged us to seek the shore, which we
reached with some difficulty, between Backhouse
River and Mount Conybeare. There we were de-
tained until the 15th. The icebergs which begirt
the coast were of great size, and of every imagina-
ble shape; but from the summit of a hill, six miles
in land, we had an unbounded prospect of the
blue ocean stretching to the north. The pasture
in the deep valleys among the mountains was
luxuriant; herds of reindeer were browsing there,
and we procured some venison. In the night
of the 14th, the stars and aurora borealis were
first visible. The following morning we resumed
our route, and the weather continuing nearly
calm, we reached the western mouth of the
Mackenzie on the 17th, and there encamped.
The first Esquimaux seen during our return from
Boat Extreme, were at Beaufort Bay, but from
250
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
thence to the vicinity of the Mackenzie, we
were continually falling in with small parties,
many of whom we had seen on the outward
voyage. We maintained a friendly intercourse
with them all, and they were very anxious to
know whether we were soon to visit them again.
The habitations on Tent Island were abandoned
in consequence, we understood, of an alarm that
the Loucheux meditated a descent to revenge
the murder of their friends.
"We have but few general remarks to add to
the foregoing narrative. The tides all along
the coast were semi-diurnal; the flood coming
from the westward. The rise, however, was
strongly affected by the winds and ice; and our
opportunities of observing were but few. At
Boat Extreme, the average rise was fifteen
inches; high water from one and to two o'clock,
A.M. and P.M. The rise generally decreased to the
eastward; and at Point Kay it was only eight
or nine inches. That the main sea is clear and
navigable by ships during the summer months
the long rolling swell we encountered on our
return, and the view obtained from the moun-
tains, furnish tolerable proof. We likewise saw
some whales on our return. The prevalence
of east and north-east winds during the early
part of the summer is a remarkable fact. We
THOMAS SIMPSON.
251
were indeed favoured by a westerly wind for
five days on our return; but this was almost
the only exception. At a more advanced period
of the season, however, the winds blew more
from the west and north-west. It is now cer-
tain that from Kotzebue's Sound to Cape Parry,
there is not a harbour into which a ship can
safely enter, but it must be a very unpropitious
season that would not admit of achieving that
portion of the Arctic navigation; and another
year ought certainly to suffice for the remainder,
whether the voyage were commenced from Bar-
row's, or from Behring's Strait. On this sub-
ject, however, we shall be better able to offer
an opinion if successful in our next summer's
operations.
"The natural history of the coast from Return
Reef to Point Barrow, is meagre in the extreme.
In the botanical kingdom, scarcely a flower or
moss was obtained in addition to the collection
made on other parts of the coast.
In zoology,
reindeer, arctic foxes, one or two limmings, seals,
white owls, snow buntings, grouse (Lagopus sa-
licite et rupestres), and various well-known spe-
cies of water-fowl, were the only objects met
with; while in the mineralogical department
there was not a rock in sitú or boulder-stone
found along an extent of more than two hun-
252
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
dred miles of coast. The variation of the com-
pass was found to have increased from one to
three degrees at the corresponding points where
observations had been made by Sir John Frank-
lin. At Boat Extreme, on the other hand, it
was only twenty-one minutes greater than that
stated by Mr. Elson at Point Barrow, where, by
continuing the proportion, the quantities would
coincide. The moon was never once visible
during the whole outward and homeward voyage,
till our return to the western mouth of Macken-
zie, where a set of distances was obtained, and
the longitudes of the other points reduced back
from thence by means of a very valuable watch,
generously lent to the expedition by Chief-Fac-
tor Smith.
"The map of our discoveries will be prepared
and transmitted to your Honours in the spring.
"Our ascent of the Mackenzie has not been
characterised by any circumstance of particular
interest. The weather continued calm and
beautiful; and the journey was performed
entirely by towing, in which manner we advanced
at the rate of from thirty to forty miles a-day.
The river has fallen very low, and the fisheries
have, in consequence, been unproductive, causing
a scarcity of provisions, both at Fort Good Hope,
and among the natives. We saw a good many of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
253
the Loucheux, but the Hare Indians were all
dispersed in the interior, searching for subsistence.
From the coast up to Point Separation moose-
deer were numerous-being quite undisturbed;
but from our first falling in with the Loucheux,
no vestiges of either moose or reindeer have been
seen. We reached this place yesterday with
half of our summer's stock of provisions still
forthcoming, and are now awaiting with impa-
tience the arrival of our outfit and dispatches.
"Some Indians from Great Bear Lake have
brought us intelligence of the party sent to esta-
blish our winter-quarters. They were stopped in
Bear Lake River by ice during the whole month of
July; lost one of their canoes; and it was not till
about the 6th ult. that they passed Fort Franklin,
after which they had the prospect of an un-
impeded passage across the lake. The continued
easterly winds were the cause of this vexatious
detention, during which the Dogribs kindly sup-
ported our people with the produce of their nets.
"Sept. 8.-We have this morning received
Governor Simpson's letter, dated London, 11th
of November last, and have to offer our lively
acknowledgments to your Honours for the interest
you have been pleased to express in the success
of the expedition, and in the welfare of our-
selves and party.
254
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"We have duly received the journals of Captain
Back's last expedition, and are glad to find that
his new undertaking is in no way to interfere
with our original instructions.
"Your Honours may rest assured that our
efforts in the cause of discovery and science next
summer, to the eastward of the Coppermine
River, will not be less zealous than they have
this season been in another field, and we are
sanguine in the hope that they will be crowned
with equal success.
"Our supplies for next season have come to
hand. They were delivered in very indifferent
order at Portage la Loche, and there was a
considerable deficiency in the weights of the
pemican; but with the quantity saved of this
year's stock there will be provisions enough for
next summer's operations, and we have no
further demands to make upon the Dépôt for
goods.
"We send two men express to Great Slave
Lake with this dispatch, and to meet the spring
packet, the non-arrival of which causes us some
anxiety; and to-morrow we take our departure
for winter-quarters.
"We are, &c.,
"PETER W. DEASE.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
255
EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER TO GOVERNOR SIMPSON.
Fort Norman, September 8th, 1837.
"I AM proud of the interest felt by their
Honours" (the directors of the Hudson's Bay
Company) "in our expedition: and hope that
our present dispatches will show that
confidence in our zeal has not been misplaced.
your
"I do not know what pecuniary reward is
attached by the King's orders in Council to that
portion of the Arctic navigation, completed by
us this summer; but I trust that you will ascer-
tain this point, and not allow our interests to be
overlooked.
"You were pleased to tell me that my services
as your Secretary at Red River had earned a
Chief-tradership;* now, however, I have the
exclusive honour of unfurling the Company's flag
on Point Barrow, and of thus uniting the Arctic
to the Western Ocean,-which I humbly think
entitles me to the second step. Consider, I
beseech you, the importance of the geographical
problem solved; the able officers whom it baf-
fled; the rewards conferred upon them for what
they effected; and do not reject my just claims,
although I am one of your own relatives.
I
* The correspondence in the sequel will show that the
promises made to my brother were not fulfilled.
256
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
have always (in despite of harsh treatment *) con-
fided implicitly in your kind sentiments towards
me, and feel that they will be fully displayed
on the present occasion. Such preferment, in-
stead of cooling my zeal, would animate and
inflame it, and at the same time give me the
standing requisite to the creditable production of
our travels to the world. Mr. Dease is a good,
honourable man. I believe I have acquired his
friendship, for in everything, even to the plan
of our little Fort Confidence, he has adopted
my advice, and has left the direction of the
march entirely to me; the result proves that
it has not languished under my directions; indeed
in such a service the surveyor must, of necessity,
act as guide. While the whole onus of the duty
thus rests on me, I cannot help feeling sore that
you should have considered it necessary to entrust
another with the command.
"We take our departure to-morrow, for winter
quarters; and hope to get our admirable little
sea-boats taken some distance up Dease's River
this fall, in order to lessen our portage labours in
the spring."
The above detailed intelligence of the com-
* The passages in italics are in the rough drafts, but scored
out, as if not inserted in the fair copies. I retain them as ex-
pressions of my brother's feelings.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
257
plete success of the expedition which was
dispatched by express couriers from Fort Nor-
man on the 10th of September, and which was
forwarded, with much alacrity, from post to post,
through the Indian Country, reached England
only on the 19th of April of the following
year (1838), a proof of the remoteness of the
region whence the expedition started. It reached
my station at Moose Factory on the 24th of
March; and my delight on receiving the letter
whence I extract the following, may easily be
conceived.
"Fortune and its great Disposer have this
season smiled upon my undertakings, and shed
the first bright beams upon the dark prospect
of a North American life. Yes, my dearest
brother, congratulate me, for I, and I alone,
have the well-earned honour of uniting the Arctic
to the great Western Ocean, and of unfurling the
British flag on Point Barrow.
"On the 23rd of July we supped on Franklin's
Return Reef, and having a noble run across two
large bays, (at the bottom of the first of which
rose a majestic branch of the rocky mountains
washed by two great rivers,) on the 27th we
were brought to a final stand by the ice at
Boat Extreme, in lon. 154° 26'. Nearly one
third of the distance still remained unexplored,
S
258
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and I resolved to complete it on foot, Mr. Dease
most handsomely volunteering to remain with
the boats, and thus secure our retreat. I took
five men with me, and in addition to our arms,
instruments, and necessaries, we carried a small
canvas canoe for crossing rivers. It was despe-
rately cold, and the fog so dense as to be almost
tangible. We were wet to
were wet to the waist with
wading through salt creeks and shallow inlets,
and if our case while marching was bad, in
the camp it was infinitely worse.
"On the second evening by God's Providence
we fell in with the first camp of the Western
Esquimaux, and from them I procured an
oomiak, or family canoe, with which we crossed
some deep inlets and bays that we never could
have walked round; and, being a highly sea-
worthy craft, we now carried on through thick
and thin, and at 2 A.M. of the 4th ult. attained
the object of my ardent wishes. We were soon
surrounded by a crowd of the natives, to whom
Cape North is a place of great resort; but they
were, in appearance, most friendly; and a fine
old fellow took charge of a letter to the Russians,
briefly noticing our proceedings. The women
danced around us, and were indefatigable in
their blandishments. They are w-s without
an exception. The men are a set of lousy,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
259
good-humoured, thievish, pimping rogues. With-
out fire-arms I should be sorry to trust to their
tender mercies, notwithstanding their smiling
physiogs.
"I rejoined Mr. Dease at 5 A.M. of the 6th,
and we continued our return the same day.
We were favoured by a clearer sea, and strong
westerly gales, and after a few detentions from
the ice and storms we regained the western
mouth of the Mackenzie on the 17th of August,
after a most successful cruise of thirty-nine days.
We ran many a desperate risk in that cruize.
In Camden Bay we were caught by the ice,
three miles from the land, had to throw out our
cargoes upon the floating masses to save our
sweet little boats, and after making several
portages, the oars serving as the perilous bridges
from fragment to fragment, we at last got boats
and ladings secured on a large floe, where we
passed a horrible night. On another occasion,
in a vast bay beyond Return Reef, we sailed
twenty-five hours in a dense fog, thirteen of
these out of sight of land, before we could effect
a landing. We never encamped but for ice,
or contrary winds, it being constant daylight;
and, when weary, slept by watches in the boats.
The thermometer ranged between 30° and 40°
of Fahr., and we wore our winter dresses, and
s 2
260
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Esquimaux waterproof boots. Yet with all these
precautions few of the men escaped without se-
vere sore throats.
"I am charmed with the scenery of the Mac-
kenzie: the weather, after we re-entered it, was
beautiful, and ascending with the towing-line
at the rate of from thirty to forty miles per day,
we reached this place on the 4th instant. I
have since been incessantly employed on public
dispatches, which is my apology for this meagre
outline; but you shall hear from me once or
twice from winter quarters.'
""
The following from the Morning Chronicle,
may be taken as a fair exposition of the light in
which the success of the expedition was viewed
by the world.
"The question which has been a geographical
problem for upwards of two centuries,-the
north-west passage around the continent of Ame-
rica, is at length determined, and we have the
satisfaction to lay before our readers, in another
column, an abstract of the Journals of the in-
trepid discoverers, by whose enterprise the object
has been accomplished, and in the progress of
which they have evinced intelligence, activity,
and hardihood not inferior to any of those daring
and enduring men who have preceded them in
the arduous path of arctic discovery.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
261
66
Referring our general readers to the manly
and unpretending narrative of the gentlemen
who conducted this expedition, so honourable
in the annals of British commercial enterprise
we beg leave to point out to our more scientific
readers the interest belonging to the geographi-
cal, and we may say topographical, questions
determined by the observations of Messrs. Dease
and Simpson. The fact of the Continent of
America being circumnavigated; the determina-
tion of the latitude of its northern extremity,
in the attempts to ascertain which so many
expeditions of different nations have been un-
successful; the knowledge that the great moun-
tain ridge, extending from Magellan's Straits
to the most northern parts of the American
continent, previously known, actually reaches
the shores of the Arctic Sea; all these are highly
interesting discoveries.
"The completion of the survey of the North
American coast, from the Coppermine river to
some part of Hudson's Bay, will be highly in-
teresting as connecting the discoveries and obser-
vations of Captains Parry, Franklin, and Back,
as well as determining whether Captain Ross's
Boothia Felix is a peninsula or an island; but
looking on the chart at the position of Parry's
Melville Island, and Franklin's Point Turnagain,
262
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
there can be no doubt of a communication by sea,
whether navigable or not, existing from Baffin's
Bay to the westward of these points: and there-
fore we consider that, although the whole of the
northern coast of the American Continent has
not yet been actually surveyed; yet that by
connecting the surveys of Captains Franklin and
Beechey, or, in other words, completing the
survey of the coast from Behring's Straits to
Mackenzie's River, the question of the long-sought
north-west passage is at length determined."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
263
CHAPTER XIV.
Transactions, Autumn 1837 to Spring 1838, detailed in
Letters. Climate of Fort Confidence. Housekeeping
there.
"GENTLEMEN,
"Fort Confidence, September 25, 1837.
"After a long and stormy passage across
Great Bear Lake, during which we experienced
the rigours of winter, we arrived here in safety
this evening, in company with the servants and
Indians employed by Chief-Trader Macpherson,
to transport our outfit and provisions for the
ensuing summer. These people will be dis-
patched back to Fort Simpson to-morrow, and we
embrace the opportunity to give you a brief
sketch of the summer transactions at this place,
and of our prospects of maintenance for the
winter.
"The site judiciously chosen by John Ritch
for this establishment is about three miles from
the mouth of Dease's River, in a strait formed
by a large island with the northern shore of the
264
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Lake. He reached here with his party on the
16th ult., and since then has completed a store
and erected the shell of a dwelling-house.
"We are concerned to say that the Chipewyan
hunters brought from Athabasca have quite
disappointed our expectations. After indolently
wasting the best part of the hunting season,
they are now laid up with influenza, which
has been going the round of all the Indians in
this quarter. The Dogribs, however, promise to
bring us some provisions. In the interval, the
nets at the door have supported Ritch and his
men, and we shall immediately make proper
dispositions for our winter fisheries, the most
distant of which will be about fifteen miles from
hence.
"It is most fortunate that we got two small
boats built at Fort Chipewyan last spring instead
of a large one; and that we have brought these
fine craft safely hither, for there is not in any
part of Great Bear Lake, on this side of Fort
Franklin, timber fit for the construction of a boat
of any description.
"We have only to add, that our utmost efforts
shall be exerted to achieve the service prescribed
us next summer; and we trust that our success
will be equal to that with which Providence
has crowned our labours of this season.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
265
"The winter may be said to have commenced
here, the ground being covered with snow, and
the frost already severe.
We shall again do ourselves the pleasure
of addressing you by the Mackenzie's River
March express. Meanwhile,
"We have the honour to be, &c., &c.,
"PETER W. DEASE.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
"To the Governor, Chief Factors, and
Chief Traders of the Northern Department."
TO THE SAME.
"Fort Confidence, Jan. 22nd, 1838.
"We have now the honour of acknowledging
Governor Simpson's letter, dated Norway House
June 30th, 1837; and received on the 29th of
December.
"At the same time it is our melancholy duty
to report the death of one of the bearers-
Peter Taylor,-occasioned by a pulmonary com-
plaint of old standing; and accelerated, perhaps,
by the fatigue of the journey. He lingered
a long time after he became unable to advance
further, during which he was carefully attended
by his companion (a Maskegon Indian named
'Le Sourd'), who shot several deer around their
encampment, and on the poor fellow's decease
66
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
interred his body. This distressing event occur-
red on a large arm of the Lake, stretching half-
way between Dease's Bay and the Coppermine
River, which was first discovered by Mr. Simpson
on a hunting excursion some time previous. Le
Sourd's track, while vainly searching in Simpson's
Bay for the establishment, alarmed a small camp
of Dogrib Indians stationed in the vicinity, to
such a degree that they fled hither in the utmost
terror. Conjecturing the true cause, Mr. Simp-
son immediately started to bring relief to the
strangers; but, after six days journey, during
which he made the circuit of the northern part of
that extensive bay, he returned without being
able to trace their retreat. It was at this very
date (12-13 December,) that Taylor expired.
Le Sourd then resolved to retrace his steps
to Fort Norman; but at Cape Macdonell he
fortunately fell in with another party of Indians,
who conducted him hither.
"We have entered on this long relation in
order to preclude the possibility of misrepresen-
tation; as in a late spiteful production we
observe, among other calumnies, that the Com-
pany's officers are charged with wilfully exposing
to starvation the people under their command,—
an accusation as false as it is malicious.
"In consequence of Governor Simpson's de-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
267
parture for Norway House before the arrival
of the Athabasca boats, no notice has been taken
of our dispatch of the 31st of May. It con-
tained an offer on the part of Chief-Factor
Macleod, to conduct a party of Chipewyans
to meet us at the mouth of Great Fish River
this ensuing summer, with a list of supplies
required for that service. A precaution of this
nature was suggested in our original instructions,
and was discussed in Mr. Dease's letter of the 3rd
of January; but is now altogether nugatory.
While we publicly offer Mr. Macleod the tribute
of our thanks for his gallant proposal, we beg
to assure the Governor and Council that, though
this channel of retreat be cut off, our ardour in
the noble cause in which we are engaged knows
no abatement.
"Notwithstanding the extraordinary severity
of last summer, the blank on the western coast
was minutely explored, as will be seen by the
accompanying chart. That part of Governor
Simpson's latest instructions, which recom-
mends a second attempt in the same quarter, is
therefore anticipated; indeed, from this point
such an undertaking would with our means have
been quite impracticable, as the ice on Great
Bear Lake seldom breaks up till the month
of August. But as the coast to the eastward
268
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
may present a field for the labours of two seasons,
we have availed ourselves of the full powers
granted to us by applying to the gentlemen in
charge of the Athabasca and Mackenzie's River
districts, to forward hither, this ensuing fall, an
additional supply of pemican, leather, sledge-
wood, dogs, and some articles without which we
cannot subsist. Our men have consented to
prolong their engagements, if necessary, on condi-
tion of their wantages now enclosed to the gen-
tleman in charge of Norway House being for-
warded to Great Slave Lake by the Athabasca
brigade; for ere the lapse of a fourth year they
will all be worn to the buff. For ourselves
we make no demands whatever.
“The region surrounding this desolate abode
is mountainous, stormy, and unsheltered. Both
men and dogs are often severely frost-bitten,
while traversing it for food. We have tried
various winter fisheries, both far and near; but
one after another they have failed before the
rigour of the cold. One, however, ten miles to
the southward, still maintains a few hands;
others are dispersed among the distant camps;
and the few residents are supported by our
Chipewyan hunters, and the native Indians. We
are happy to add that the influenza at length
passed over without occasioning more than one
THOMAS SIMPSON.
269
or two deaths, and these among the aged; our
own people are all in perfect health.
"When we arrived here on the 25th of
September, Dease's River was already fast.
We were therefore unable to transport our sea-
boats by water to the height of land, as we had
contemplated. The long and toilsome portage
will be commenced by stages in March; and
Mr. Simpson will precede the party for the pur-
pose of surveying the most practicable route
to the Coppermine River. We propose taking
our final departure from this place on the 1st
of June. Another opportunity will occur of
addressing you before that period.
"We have the honour, &c., &c.,
"PETER W. Dease.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
I select the following from a file of dispatches
of a similar nature, as evidence of the anxious
providence, and minute attention to details,
which marked the conduct of this expedition.
"DEAR SIR,
"Fort Confidence, January 23rd, 1838.
"In consequence of a third voyage to the
eastern coast in 1839, proposed by us, it became
necessary, in order to obtain the consent of our
people, to promise them a supply of necessaries
270
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
from Norway House, by the Athabasca brigade
of this season. A list to that effect is enclosed,
which you will be pleased to complete; and we
have requested the gentleman in charge of the
Athabasca district to transport the property
to Great Slave Lake.
"We are unfortunately unprovided with a
nautical almanac for the year 1839, and unless
we can obtain one in time, we shall not consider
ourselves justified in venturing our party in an
unknown country. We have therefore to re-
quest, that immediately upon receipt of this
an express be despatched to York Factory, and
another to Red River, with the enclosed letters;
and that the book, together with any instruments,
&c., for the expedition, be forwarded at any cost,
so as to overtake the Athabasca boats; or, if
that be impossible, at least to reach us here in
the spring of 1839.
"Our authority from the Governor and Coun-
cil fully empowers us to make the above or any
other demands; while we feel assured that your
own good feelings towards the expedition will
ensure your particular attention to them.
"We remain,
“PETER W. DEASE,
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
"To the Gentleman in charge of
Norway House."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
271
EXTRACT TO GOVERNOR SIMPSON.
"Fort Confidence, January 29, 1838.
"Throughout the whole country, last summer
was remarkable for its inclemency. We our-
selves were detained a fortnight by the ice in
Great Slave Lake. Ritch and his assistants
were, after they separated from us, stopped for
nearly forty days; and, had it not been for our
indomitable perseverance, and my singular jour-
ney from Boat Extreme to Cape Barrow, that
interesting point would never have been reached;
nor could the Company have gained that dis-
tinction by any renewed exertions of ours this
season from our present position, as the ice of
Great Bear Lake, which seldom opens before
August, would have presented an insurmount-
able barrier to such an attempt.
"Winter overtook us during our passage of
this vast and boisterous lake in September, and
we were threatened with being set fast; but,
by a bold push across from the western to the
eastern side, guided by chart and compass, we
safely reached our infant establishment on the
25th. Dease's River was already frozen, and
our plan of transporting our little sea-boats up
its waters to the height of land was therefore
unavailing. The climate here is indeed in-
272
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
tensely severe, and the mean temperature of the
current month is lower perhaps than any upon
record. The bare and stormy character of the
country, and the long disappearance of the sun,
contribute greatly to aggravate the rigour of
the cold. I was, however, determined to inure
myself to the worst; and, in order to eke out
our scanty subsistence, spent the greater part
of the time until Christmas in hunting excur-
sions with various parties of Indians; during
which I discovered another extensive arm of
this inland sea, terminating nearly east from
hence, fully half-way to the Coppermine River.
It was somewhere near that bay that poor Tay-
lor breathed his last. Had its existence been
known to us last spring, it would have been
our wintering-place; although, from its scanty
clothing of stunted straggling trees, and its lofty
encircling hills, it would have afforded but a
very sorry residence.
"It was a month after our arrival here before
the houses were habitable; though very small,
they still remain in a miserable unfinished state;
and, from a neglect of the fall fishery, our living
was for a long time literally from hand to mouth.
Mr. Dease is a very worthy man; but he is dull
and indolent. We live together, old wife and
all, on the happiest terms: and I now under-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
273
stand that mysterious science-the management
of an inland post-as intimately as if I had spent
the last long nine years on the north side of
Portage-la-loche. Time flies quickly enough
even in this desolate abode; though, not hav-
ing Captain Back's good fortune in obtaining
newspapers and periodicals, the rest of the world
is dead to us. My stay at the house is, however,
drawing nigh to a close, as I intend starting in
March to survey the route to the Coppermine,
and to mark out the best ground for the boats
and baggage to follow. The plan of the portage
by stages is entirely my own, and I have every
hope of effecting this laborious duty successfully.
The provisions saved by the rapidity of our last
summer's voyage will meet the heavy consump-
tion on the portage without drawing on our sea-
stock."
66
EXTRACTS TO THE AUTHOR.
"Fort Confidence, Jan. 29, 1838.
My last to you was from Fort Norman in
September, announcing our safe and early return
from our first glorious campaign: I should say
mine, for mine alone was the victory.
"Our passage of this great and stormy lake
in September was long and severe. Winter
overtook us, but we safely reached our infant
'Confidence' on the 25th of that month. The
T
274
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
慧
​country was then covered with snow. Dease's
River and all the smaller lakes were fast. The
climate is, indeed, intensely cold, the land moun-
tainous, and the scanty clothing of stunted and
straggling spruce firs confined to the immediate
borders of the lake. Both men and dogs got
severely frost-bitten while bringing meat across
the elevated and stormy region, where there
is not a shrub for shelter. Until Christmas,
I took my share of all these hardships, accom-
panying the Indians on their hunting excursions,
and learned to kill my own reindeer. I also
discovered another large arm of this inland sea,
stretching half way between us and the Copper-
mine.
"For that river I intend starting in March,
to lay down the best route for the transport of
our boats and baggage. My stay at the house
is therefore very short too short, indeed, for my
literary employments; but, this first and hardest
winter past, I shall probably have time enough.
"All our letters despond of our last summer's
success, in consequence of the extreme incle-
mency of that season, and the Governor tells
us to try the western coast again. Ha! ha! he
forgot that all Great Bear Lake lies in the way,
and does not clear out till August. My singular
march from Boat Extreme to Cape Barrow put
THOMAS SIMPSON.
275
the coping-stone to that job. Would that the
eastern one were already commenced!
"We have a pretty long lease of night in
this quarter, the sun being invisible at the house
from the 30th of November till the 12th of
January. Our winter fare consists of carriboo
and musk-ox meat, whitefish, and an occasional
huge trout.
We were threatened with starva-
tion at the outset; but, by dint of dispersing
all hands, we got over that, and now enjoy
abundance. Our buildings are small, as the
climate and our means demanded: their position
is on a strait opposite a large wooded island,
three miles distant from Dease's River, the main
feeder of the lake. I have not yet seen another
spot where an establishment could have been
erected.
"When fatigued with writing, chart-drawing,
and astronomy, I have a resource which you
would hardly have expected here in an excellent
little library; which, besides scientific books, and
a regiment of northern travels, contains Plutarch,
Hume, Robertson, Gibbon, Shakspeare, Smollett,
and dear Sir Walter. It is well that we came
so provided; for our friends have not thought
fit to send us any of the publications of the day.
"Mr. Dease and I live together on the happiest
footing; his old wife, a little grandchild, and a
T 2
276
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
strapping wench, a daughter of his brother
Charles, joining our mess. Dease is a worthy,
indolent, illiterate soul, and moves just as I
give the impulse.
"With respect to the dangers to be encoun-
tered, make yourself quite easy on my account.
They are great, indeed, compared with those of
civilized life, but really present nothing appalling
to people who have traversed the interior of this
wild country. Our plans, thanks to my own
foresight, are all admirably laid, and can scarcely
fail to maintain us in plenty, and to ensure suc-
cess. I am no wild theorist, like Dr. King:
all my proceedings are based on calculation and
knowledge. On that foundation, and a humble
reliance on a stronger Arm than man's, do I
build my hopes.
"I believe I have now run over everything
that would interest you from this remotest of
white men's dwellings; let us, therefore, turn
to friends at home.
66
My last letter from our invaluable mother
is of the 19th of February, 1837; at which time,
in consequence, I suppose, of the Prince Rupert's
cut-and-run from York Factory, she had not re-
ceived a single letter from me dated in 1836:
yet I wrote her from Red River once or twice
during winter 1835-36. I wish there may be
THOMAS SIMPSON.
277
fair play in all this. She seems resigned to poor
aunt Jane's death; but draws a truly affecting
picture of the dying sister's being unable to take
a last leave of her blind brother. O God! is
such the end of this miserable life? They whose
hopes are not fixed upon a better are, indeed,
worse than the beasts that perish. Our dear
mother is apparently comfortable and happy,
enjoying the respect of all who know her: she
well merits our filial regard, which I hope will
never fail her. Both she and our worthy friends
at Bellevue are now descending into the vale
of
years. How I long to embrace them all once
more-to behold again our loved mountain land!
Why were we born poor and friendless, when
many a dolt inherits a fair estate? When or
where we shall meet again, God only knows!
May he preserve and prosper you, wherever your
lot may be cast!"
"GENTLEMEN,
"Fort Confidence, April 20th, 1838.
"We now resume our report on the affairs of
the expedition, up to the present period.
"Our last fishery entirely failed about two
months ago, but our hunters continue to furnish
us with a sufficient supply of reindeer and musk-
ox meat. No fewer than six or seven guns have
recently burst in the chase, but happily only one
278
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
personal accident has ensued-the loss of a fore-
finger by one of our young Chipewyans. Both
Indians and whites, we are happy to say, enjoy
uninterrupted health.
"The greatest degree of cold registered here this
winter (60° below zero), occurred on the 11th of
March; the mean temperature of the winter so far,
is lower by several degrees, than any experienced
by Franklin or Back, while the gales that here fre-
quently accompany the severest cold, constitute a
fearful distinction. The easterly winds which
rush down from the mountains of the barren
grounds, are the most intense; the westerly more
commonly bring snow. Not the remotest symp-
tom of spring has yet appeared, and the ther-
mometer this morning stands at 26° below zero.
"Mr. Simpson has explored the barren grounds
stretching from this place to the Coppermine
River, in three different lines. His first journey
performed with two men in the latter end of
March, was solely for the purpose of discovery.
On the second, he conducted our whole disposable
force of men and dogs, laden with part of our
provisions and baggage, for the ensuing summer,
to a secure spot which he had marked in the
first dwarf woods on the banks of a navigable
stream, fifteen miles from its confluence with the
Coppermine, and ninety-five from this place by
THOMAS SIMPSON.
279
the route adopted. That route leads through the
plains of Dease's river, to a point where the
latter turns off to the north-west, in lat. 67° 22′
N., long. 117° 42′ W., far beyond where it was
seen by Dr. Richardson. A height of land of
six miles conducts to a chain of dismal lakes,
thirty miles in length, winding in a south-easterly
direction through a narrow cleft in a low range
of primitive rocks, which produce not a tree or
shrub, and seem
seem unfrequented by any living
creature. During the preceding day's journey,
musk-oxen were numerous, and several were
shot. Mr. Simpson left the baggage in charge
of two trusty men, (provided with lodges &c.,)
who are to remain at the station till we pass with
the light boats in June. The remainder of our
summer's provisions has been subsequently for-
warded to the same place: and the boats will be
transported up Dease's River, either on iron-shod
sledges, when the snow melts off the ice, or by
the first open water, according to the advance of
the season. Our object is to reach the northern
sea, not later than the 1st of July.
"Chief-Trader Macpherson has favoured us
at our request with a perusal of the minutes of
the council for 1837. With extreme surprise we
read, that our careful and meritorious boat-
builder and summer-master, John Ritch, has
280
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
been 'fined five pounds, for wanton destruction of
the Company's property at Norway House last
year.' The man solemnly declares himself uncon-
scious of any such transgression. We have had
good cause to notice his conduct during the
trying emergencies of last season, in a very differ-
ent manner; and in justice to him and to the
expedition generally, we beg leave, with all due
respect, to request a more satisfactory explanation
of the grounds of this most unexpected charge,
which has as it were accidentally come to our
knowledge. Ritch has applied for his immediate
discharge in consequence of this circumstance,
but we are quite unable to dispense with his
services, as, independently of the weakness of our
numbers, we have no other person capable of the
summer management of this place, on which you
must be aware that the safety of the whole party
essentially depends.
*
"The horrid affair of Cadien and his accom-
plices, having been agitated among the Dogrib
and Hare Indians, by whom we are surrounded
here, we were under the necessity of applying to
* A murder of several Indian families. The principal,
Cadien, (a half-breed servant of the Company,) was brought
to Canada and tried for murder; of which, on the testimony
of his accomplices in crime, he was found guilty. He was
condemned to death; but his sentence was mitigated to trans-
portation for life to New South Wales.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
281
Mr. Macpherson for information respecting the
steps which you have been pleased to take in
that dark transaction. These have been commu-
nicated to the natives, who appear satisfied with
our explanations; we are thus relieved from con-
siderable anxiety which we felt on account of
Ritch and his two fishermen, who will be left
entirely at the mercy of these Indians during our
absence on the coast.
"The remaining ten men attached to the
expedition will form our crews; and if again
protected by Providence, we may hope to return
successful to winter-quarters before the 1st of
October.
"We have the honour to be, Gentlemen,
“P. W. DEASE.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
"To the Governor, Chief Factors, and
Chief Traders of the Northern Department."
The following notices of the climate of this
dreary arctic abode, were transmitted by my
brother to the Meteorological Society of London.
"The following is an abstract of the atmo-
spheric temperature (Fahr. scale) during the year
1838, at Fort Confidence, situated near the
north-eastern extremity of Great Bear Lake, in
lat. 66° 53′ 36″ N., long. 118° 48′ 45″ W. The
standard thermometer employed, was made by
282
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Dolland. It was placed five feet from the earth,
with a northern aspect, and its indications were
registered every three hours throughout the twen-
ty-four. It may be proper to remark, that other
thermometers showed from one to five degrees
lower.
1838.
January
February.
March
Extreme Temperature. Monthly
Highest.
Lowest.
mean.
-0.5°
- 49.0°
-29·90°
zero
-54.0
-22.70
•
+22.0
— 60·0
-19.77
April
+42.0
-31.0
+ 7·11
May
June
+57·0
zero
+30.83
+75.5
+22.0
+46.70
July
+75.0
+32.0
+52.91
August
+65.5
+20.0
+45.21
September
+60·0
+21·0
+37.68
October
+41.0
7.0
+24.80
November
+20.0
-31.0
0.62
+19.0
-41.0 -11.12.
December
Mean temperature of the year +13.62°, or 18.38° of frost.
I had the curiosity, when the thermometer
stood at-49°, to cast a pistol-bullet of quicksilver,
which at ten paces passed through an inch
plank, but flattened and broke against the wall
three or four paces beyond it.
The mean temperature of the six coldest
months of the winter 1837-38, November to
April, was 14.07° below zero. For the conve-
nience of comparison, I add the means of the
corresponding six months, calculated from the
journals of former arctic expeditions.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
283
Winter Island, Sir Edward Parry
1821-2
9.87°
Igloolik,
do.
1822-3
-17.68
Fort Franklin, Sir John Franklin
1825-6
- 6.78
Do.
do.
1826-7
9.63
1834-5
Fort Reliance, Sir George Back
5.43
The interval at Fort Confidence, during which
the thermometer never rose to the freezing point,
was six months and a week, from the 17th of
October 1837, to the 24th of April 1838. On
the last-mentioned day, it reached the freezing
point at noon; but only four days previously it
had been as low as 26° below zero.
North and south winds are of rare occurrence
here; easterly winds are the most prevalent,
especially during the colder months, when they
frequently blow with violence, even at the
lowest temperatures; west, and even north-west
winds commonly bring on snow, and less severe
weather. This is at variance with what obtains
over a considerable part of North America, but
may be accounted for by the situation of the
place on the verge of the last
the "barren lands."
woods, close to
This appellation is given to the north-east angle
of the continent, because that extensive region
is destitute of wood. The winds which sweep
over it are, therefore, more intense than those
which traverse the well-wooded country to the
westward of Great Bear Lake. While engaged at
various times during the winter of 1837-8 on hunt-
284
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ing excursions with Indians to the eastward, and
in surveying the different routes to the Copper-
mine River, I could not help remarking the in-
crease in the severity of the cold and the fre-
quency of the storms, when we got out into the
hilly "barren lands."
The lakes and rivers are there much earlier
frozen; and, as a further instance of the disparity
of climate, the Coppermine River when we
entered it with our boats last spring, in lat.
67° 07′ N., only broke up on the 21st of June,
while Mackenzie's River, in the same parallel
of latitude, is usually open by the close of May.
But little rain falls at Fort Confidence during
the summer season; last winter, the average
depth of snow on level ground, was about three
feet. The largest quantity falls when the rigour
of the cold begins to abate towards the spring.
A very common-I might say the ordinary--ap-
pearance of the aurora borealis, is an arch with little
motion, passing through the zenith, and spanning
the heavens from north-west to south-east. Now,
since the variation of the compass at Fort Confi-
dence is about four points easterly, (more accu-
rately 48° 30′) it follows, that there is a dispo-
sition in this phenomenon here, to arrange itself
at right angles to the magnetic meridian. In the
depth of winter, those white clouds seen during
the short and imperfect daylight in many in-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
285
stances prove to be the aurora, which also not
unfrequently appears through a hazy sky. Its
displays are seldom very brilliant; and it hardly
ever exhibits here those vivid prismatic tints
which I have often admired between the latitudes
of 50° and 60° north."
It may be interesting to housekeepers to
have a record of the expenditure at this Arctic
abode; I am able to give the following details from
my brother's papers, in which each day's transac-
tions are noted, with the most minute accuracy.
The officers' mess (women and servants included)
consisted of nine persons, namely, Mr. Dease, his
native wife, niece and child, my brother, two
men acting as servants, and two Indian scullions.
The expenditure of provisions was as follows,
from September to June :-548 fishes, 3493fbs.
of fresh meat (including bone), 631 reindeer
tongues, 225 lbs. of fat, 33 geese and ducks.
And they enjoyed the following luxuries:-27
fbs. of tea, 6lbs. of pepper and spices, 2lbs. of
mustard, 2 gallons of rice, 6 gallons of raisins,
2 gallons of barley, 4 gallons of wine, 400lbs. of
sugar, 150lbs. of butter, 540lbs. of flour, 2 hams.
The servants' mess consisted of twelve men,
one woman, one child; and their consumption was
as follows:-2329 fishes, 16,452tbs. of fresh meat
(including bone), 1331tbs. of dried meat, 174lbs.
of pemican, 130lbs. of fat, 62 tongues, 50 geese.
286
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
A comprehension of the principles on which a
very large amount of solid food can be digested,
and is necessary, in an Arctic climate, will alone
enable one to understand how this large amount
of provand was isposed of.*
It will be remarked that this liberal expendi-
ture was justified by the ample means which the
energy of the officers and their habitude to the
country enabled them to provide.
* The following apt illustration from a recent popular sci-
entific treatise explains the cause of hunger in cold weather:
"In the summer season, the air is greatly rarified by the
heat, and the amount of oxygen taken into the lungs is com-
paratively small-the carbonaceous matter of the blood, there-
fore, is slowly burned, and a return of hunger as slowly follows.
the gratification of the last appetite. In so far we resemble
our fires-they burn slowly and feebly, because there is not a
sufficiency of oxygen to encourage their blaze. In winter the
air is more dense, especially in clear frosty weather, and every
inspiration we make conveys into the lungs a maximum quan-
tity of oxygen, which, acting there, and throughout the capil-
lary system, carries off with remarkable rapidity whatever ma-
terial it can combine with. The waste being rapid and abun-
dant, it follows that the supply must be proportioned to it, and
hence, in healthy and vigorous subjects, hunger is an almost.
constant claimant in cold weather. If this hunger be not
satisfied, the body wastes with fearful rapidity. In fact, the
analogy is sufficiently close for us to say, that the body, in
respiring this dense pure air, consumes as much faster than in
respiring a heated and expanded air, as does a fire on a clear
frosty morning burn more brightly and rapidly than in the full
sunshine of a hot summer's day.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
287
CHAPTER XV.
Expedition of 1838 to the Eastward of the Coppermine
River.-Its Comparative Failure.-My Brother's Opinions
thereon, detailed in his Letters.-Opinions of the English
Press, and the Public.
"Fort Confidence, Sept. 15, 1838.
"IT now becomes our duty to report the in-
complete success of the expedition to the east-
ward, this summer, in consequence of the ex-
traordinary duration of the ice. Much, however,
has been done to prepare the way for another
attempt next year; and our hopes, instead of
being depressed, are elevated by the knowledge
so painfully acquired this season.
"On the 6th of June, our boats were conveyed
on the ice to the mouth of Dease's River (then
just open), the ascent of which was commenced
on the following day. With some assistance
from Indians, we reached the portage leading
to the Dismal Lakes, (discovered by Mr. Simp-
son last winter,) and carried the boats across
it without accident. The ice on these lakes
was still perfectly solid; and we were provided
288
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
with iron-shod sledges for the passage. On
these we fixed the boats; and the wind being
fair, hoisted sail, which greatly aided the crews
on the hauling ropes. In this
In this manner, these
frozen reservoirs, which are full thirty miles
long, were passed in two days; and we reached
our provision station at Kendall River on the
19th. There we had the satisfaction to find
the two men (left there by Mr. Simpson in
April) well; and their Hare Indian hunters
successful in the chase.
"Two of these active fellows consented at
once to accompany us along the coast, and proved
not only good voyageurs; but, during our fre-
quent detentions among the ice, killed so many
reindeer as enabled us to save nearly half our
summer's stock of provisions.
"Next day, (20th of June,) we proceeded to
the Coppermine River, which was still fast. It,
however, gave way on the 22nd, and we de-
scended all its terrible rapids at full flood, while
the ice was still driving.
"Below the Bloody Fall, the river did not
clear till the 26th; and on the 1st of July, we
pitched our tents at the ocean. Two or three
Esquimaux families were seen there;
there; but
they took the alarm and fled over the ice to-
wards some distant islands. Here, and on va-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
289
rious parts of the coast, a fine collection of plants
was made by Mr. Dease.
"We remained imprisoned in the mouth of
the Coppermine River, awaiting the opening of
the ice till the 17th of July. Our subsequent
progress along the coast, was one incessant, we
may say desperate struggle, with the same cold
obdurate foe, in which the boats sustained se-
rious damage, several planks being more than
half cut through. At various points we saw
caches of the Esquimaux placed upon the lofty
rocks out of reach of beasts of prey; but we
did not fall in with any of the owners, who
seemed to have all gone inland to kill rein-deer,
after their winter seal-hunt among the islands.
Fragments of Dr. Richardson's mahogany boats
were found widely scattered; and many articles
left by his party at the Bloody Fall, were care-
fully preserved in the native keepings.
"On the 29th of July, we at length succeeded
in doubling Cape Barrow. The northern part
of Bathurst's Inlet was still covered with a solid
sheet of ice; and, instead of being able to cross
over direct to Point Turnagain, we were com-
pelled to make a circuit of one hundred and
forty miles by Arctic Sound and Barry's Islands.
"On the easternmost of that group, Mr. Simp-
son discovered, at the base of a crumbling cliff,
U
290
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
several pieces of pure copper ore; and the ad-
jacent islands had also the appearance of being
strongly impregnated with that metal.-A series
of specimens of all the principal rocks along
the coast, was preserved.
"In order to attain Cape Flinders, we had to
perform a portage across an island, and several
over the ice. On the 9th of August, we doubled
that cape; and in a little bay three miles to
the southward of Franklin's furthest encampment
in 1821, our boats were finally arrested by the
ice which encompassed them for twenty-two days.
So different was the season of 1838, from that
of 1821, when Franklin found a perfectly open
sea there on the 16th of August. In June, the
early part of July, and towards the middle of
August, we had frequent storms, accompanied by
snow and frost; but, during the greater part
of July and the beginning of August calms
prevailed, which, together with the severity of
the preceding winter, we consider the cause of
the tardy disruption of the ice this season.
"On the 20th of August we were obliged
to relinquish all hopes of advancing further
with the boats. That our efforts might not,
however, prove wholly fruitless, Mr. Simpson
offered to conduct an exploring party on foot for
ten days.
It was at the same time arranged
THOMAS SIMPSON.
291
between us that, in the event of any favourable
movement taking place on the ice, Mr. Dease
should immediately advance with one boat.
Signals were agreed upon to prevent our missing
each other on the way; and should we unfor-
tunately do so, the last day of August was fixed
for the rendezvous of both parties at Boat Har-
bour. That unlucky spot is situated in latitude
68° 16′ 25″ N., lon. 109° 20′ 45″ W. Variation of
the compass 46° East."
"Mr. Simpson's narrative of his journey and
discoveries to the eastward is here annexed.
"On the 31st of August we cut our way out
of our icy harbour-the grave of one year's
hopes-and, having the benefit of fair winds,
crossed Bathurst's Inlet by Wilmot's Islands,
and safely re-entered the Coppermine River on
the 3rd of September. The following day we
proceeded to the Bloody Fall, and there secreted
our superfluous provisions.
"The ascent of the Coppermine (hitherto
deemed impracticable) to near the junction of
Kendall River was accomplished on the fifth
day. We deposited the boats in a woody bluff,
where they can be conveniently repaired next
spring. Then, taking our bundles on our backs,
U 2
292
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
we traversed the "barren grounds," and returned
to winter quarters yesterday.
"We had the satisfaction to find everything
in good order: the buildings rendered more
comfortable, and some provisions collected. Our
return so much earlier than we ourselves ex-
pected, on leaving Point Turnagain, has enabled
us to commence the fall fisheries in good time:
and, though our stock of ammunition and other
necessaries for the Indians is reduced very low,
want no longer stares us in the face, as it did for
several months after our arrival here last year.
We are most happy to add that the natives have
experienced neither famine nor sickness this
season: the only death within our knowledge
being that of a blind old man.
"P. W. DEASE.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
Mr. Simpson's narrative of his journey on foot
to the eastward.
"On the 20th of August, the date appointed
for the return of former expeditions from these
desolate shores, I left our boats still hopelessly
beset with ice, to perform a ten days' journey
of discovery on foot to the eastward. My com-
panions were five servants and two Indians.
We carried a wooden framed canvas canoe;
THOMAS SIMPSON.
293
and nearly the same other baggage as on the
journey to Cape Barrow last year, with the
addition of a tent for the nightly shelter of the
whole party, on a coast almost destitute of fuel.
Each man's load at starting weighed about half-
a-hundredweight; and our daily progress averaged
twenty geographical miles.
"About the middle of the first day's journey
we passed the furthest point to which Sir John
Franklin and his officers walked in 1821. Be-
yond that the coast preserved its N.N.E. trending
to our encampment of the same night, situated
on the pitch of a low cape, which I have named
Cape Franklin.
"From west to north-east a new land or
crowded chain of islands of great extent, in
many places high and covered with snow, stretch-
ed along at the distance, apparently, of thirty
miles; and led to the apprehension that we were
entering a deep sound or inlet. The main-land
now turned off to E.N.E., which continued to be
nearly its general bearing for the three following
days. It is flat in its outline, our path leading
alternately over soft sand, sharp stones, and
swampy ground. At the distance of from one
to two miles, the coast is skirted by a range
of low stony hills (then partially clothed with
dull verdure) which send down to the sea
294
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
numberless brooks and small streams. None
of the latter at that season reached above our
waists, though the deep and rugged channels of
many of them showed that in the spring they
must be powerful torrents. Two leagues inland
a hill (which I have called Mount George, after
Governor Simpson) rises to the height of six
hundred feet; and forms a conspicuous object for
a day's journey on either side. The ice all along
lay immovably aground upon the shallow beach,
and extended in every direction as far as the
eye could reach.
"The great northern land still stretched out
before us, and kept alive doubts of our being
engaged in exploring an immense bay, which
even the increase in the tides, the quantity of
sea-weed and shells, and the discovery of the
remains of a large whale, and of a polar bear,
could not altogether dispel. These doubts were
converted into certainty as we drew near, on
the fourth evening, an elevated cape, and saw
land, apparently, all around. With feelings of
bitter disappointment I ascended the height,
from whose summit a splendid and most un-
looked-for view burst suddenly upon me.
"The ocean, as if transformed by enchantment,
rolled its free waves beneath, and beyond the
reach of vision to the eastward. Islands of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
295
various shape and size overspread its surface;
and the northern land terminated in a bold and
lofty cape, bearing E.N.E. at least forty miles
distant, while the coast of the continent trended
away to the south-east. I stood in fact on a
remarkable headland at the eastern entrance of
an ice obstructed strait.
"The extensive land to the northward I have
called Victoria Land, in honour of our youthful
sovereign, and its eastern termination Cape Pelly,
after the Governor of The Honourable Company.
To the promontory, whence I saw this welcome
sight, I have attached the name of Cape Alex-
ander, after an only brother, who would give his
right hand to be the sharer of my journeys.
"The rise and fall of the tide there was about
three feet; being the greatest observed by us in
the Arctic seas. The coast here changes its
character-the water becomes deep-the ap-
proach easy; and I have little doubt that the
islands contain secure harbours for shipping.
"Next morning, at the distance of eight or
nine miles, we crossed another high cape, com-
posed of trap rocks. The travelling had become
more and more toilsome; our road, now, passing
over some miles of round loose stones, and then
through wet mossy tracts, sown with large boulders,
and tangled with dwarf willows. At our usual
296
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
camping hour we opened a large bay, studded with
islands, which ran for five miles to the S.S.W.,
and then turned off in a bold sweep of rounded
granite hills dipping to the sight in the E.S.E.,
at the distance of thirty miles. To walk round
even the portion of the bay in view would have
consumed three days-the time allotted for out-
going was already expired; and two or three of
my men were severely lame from the fatigue of
their bundles, the inequalities of the ground, and
the constant immersion in icy cold water.
"I, besides, cherished hopes that, by making
the best of our way back, we might, agreeably to
my arrangement with Mr. Dease, meet him
bringing on one of the boats, in which case, with
an open sea before us, we could still have con-
siderably extended our discoveries before the
commencement of winter.
"I may here remark that we were singularly
fortunate in the five days of our outward journey:
the weather being so moderate and clear that I
daily obtained astronomical observations; whereas,
before our departure from the boats, and during
our return to them, we had continual storms,
with frost, snow, rain, and fogs.
"Close to our furthest encampment appeared
the site of three Esquimaux tents of the preced-
ing year, with a little stone fire-place apart; we
THOMAS SIMPSON.
297
passed the remains of a larger camp, and several
human skeletons, near Cape Franklin; but no-
where, throughout the journey, did we find
recent traces of that few and scattered people.
"The morning of the 25th of August was
devoted to the determination of our position,
and the erection of a pillar of stones on the
most elevated part of the point; after which
I took possession of the country, with the usual
ceremony, in the name of the Honourable Com-
pany, and for the Queen of Great Britain. In
the pillar I deposited a brief sketch of our pro-
ceedings for the information of whoever might
find it. Its situation is in lat. 68° 43′ 39″ N.,
long. (reduced from excellent lunars at the
boats) 106° 3′ 0″ W. The magnetic variation
being 60° 38′ 23″ E. The compass grew slug-
gish and uncertain in its movements as we
advanced eastward, and frequently had to be
shaken before it would traverse at all.
"Two miles to the southward of our encamp-
ment, a rapid river of some magnitude dis-
charges itself into the bay, the shores of which
seemed more broken and indented than those
along which we had travelled.
"Independently of Victoria Land and numerous
islands, I have had the satisfaction of tracing
fully one hundred miles of coast; and of seeing
298
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
1
thirty miles further, making in all (after deduct-
ing Franklin's half day's journey already men-
tioned) about one hundred and twenty miles of
continental discovery. This is, in itself, impor-
tant; yet I value it chiefly for having disclosed
an open sea to the eastward, and for suggesting a
new route along the southern shores of Victoria
Land,' by which that open sea may be attained,
while the main-land (as was the case this season)
is yet environed by an impenetrable barrier of
ice. Whether the open sea, to the eastward,
may lead to Ross' Pillar, or to the estuary of
Back's Great Fish River, it is hard to conjecture,
though the trending of the most distant land in
view should rather seem to favour the latter
conclusion.
"The same evening, on our return, we met the
ice at Trap Cape driving rapidly to the eastward.
As we proceeded the shores continued inaccessi-
ble; but open water was, now, everywhere visible
in the offing. At dusk, on the 29th of August,
(our tenth day,) we regained the boats, and
found them still enclosed in the ice,-which the
north-westerly gales seemed to have accumulated
from far and near towards Point Turnagain.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
My brother's feelings and opinions, on return-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
299
ing from this comparatively unsuccessful voyage,
will be gleaned from the following extracts
from his private letters.
TO GOVERNOR SIMPSON.
"September 18th, 1838.
"It will be needless to repeat the history of
our journey, which the official dispatch contains.
All that has been done is the fruit of my own
personal exertions, achieved under circumstances
of peculiar difficulty. I speak not of the diffi-
culties of the way-these I have never much
regarded; but of those of opinion with which I
have had to struggle.
66
My worthy senior, like Franklin and Back,
was alarmed by the storms, the snow, and frost,
in August, circumstances which always attend the
disruption of any great body of ice; and insisted
that the 20th of that month, the date fixed for
the return of the Government expeditions, should
also be that of ours. I contended that the
clearest sea, and some moderate weather, will
always be found in September. To the first
of that month, our final departure was, in con-
sequence, protracted, and the intervening period
enabled me to discover one hundred and twenty
miles of the continental coast, a new northern
land, many islands, and an open sea to the east-
300
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ward. Had I been alone in the command the
latter circumstance, and the rapid disruption
of the ice as we returned towards the boats,
would have determined me to make a bold
attempt to reach Ross' Pillar, or the Great Fish
River this season: but being somewhat in the
situation of Sinbad in the tale, I was not al-
together free to follow my own designs. That
they would have proved, by this date, successful,
I have little doubt from the remarkable beauty
of the weather which we still enjoy. But my
excellent senior is so much engrossed with family
affairs, that he is disposed to risk nothing; and is,
therefore, the last man in the world for a discoverer.
I write not in anger but in sorrow; I esteem Mr.
Dease for his upright private character, while I
cannot help regarding him and his followers as a
dead weight upon the expedition.
"From Point Turnagain, by crossing Bathurst's
Inlet direct to Cape Barrow, we reentered the
Coppermine in four days as I had maintained.
Dease would have the time at least trebled-
talked much of the heavy gales in September,
and of the risk of being taken in the new ice
-two things quite incompatible with each other.
"At the Bloody Fall I had another contest
against five weighty authorities. Franklin,
Richardson, Dease, Mackay, and Sinclair con-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
301
!
curred in pronouncing the further ascent of the
river impracticable. I, however, carried my
point against them all; and instead of abandon-
ing our boats (and with them next year's voyage)
to the Esquimaux, in five days we got them
safely up to near the junction of Kendall River
-the stream through which we entered the
Coppermine in June. The opinions I expressed
regarding the Coppermine, its depth of water, the
rapids, the precipices, and the probable formation
of a narrow beach at their base by the subsid-
ing of the spring flood in every particular
proved correct showing that ten years' experience
well applied may be more valuable than that of a
life-time.*
"Since our return to this place, on the 14th
inst., I have had the greatest trouble to keep the
expedition together. Mr. Dease dwelt upon the
probability of our recall the insignificance of
our remaining means-and the shattered con-
dition of the boats; I argued that our honour
was pledged in the cause-that we had pro-
visions, if not goods, on hand-with nets to
procure more; undertook, if necessary, to get
our inland boat conveyed by one of the routes
explored by myself, last winter, to the Copper-
mine; reminded my senior that the sea boats were
* "His years but young; yet his experience old!"
302
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
purposely left in a convenient situation for Ritch
to repair them next spring; that we could get
proper iron works for the purpose made at Fort
Simpson; and recommended the instant dis-
missal of our expensive Chipewyan hunters.
“Sinclair and several others applied for their
discharge, and Dease again expressed his desire
of relinquishing the further prosecution of the
enterprise. Upon which, to bring the matter to
a point, I proposed to remain and follow it up
with one boat's crew of volunteers.
“Had I acted like Parry, and others similarly
circumstanced, I might have converted the
erroneous notions of my senior to my own future
aggrandisement; instead of which, sacrificing
interest to honesty, I have been urging him
on to his own advantage, reserving only the
labour to myself. Would to God that I had
again met with Esquimaux on my pedestrian
journey, and could have obtained a baidar from
them as last year, I should then either have
reached the Great Fish River, or Ross' Pillar-or
have never returned to tell the tale."
SAME DATE TO THE AUTHOR.
After narrating the advance voyage, he says,—
"It was during ten days of that tedious inter-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
303
val that I performed the pedestrian journey to
the eastward, of which I have already made men-
tion. Its results are, the tracing of one hundred
miles of the continental coast, the seeing thirty
miles farther, the discovery of an extensive
'terra incognita et nivea' to the northward (dis-
tant about thirty miles from the main), which
I had the honour of naming 'Victoria Land,'-
of an archipelago of islands,-and, what I value
more than all, of an open sea to the eastward.
That open sea first greeted my astonished and
delighted eyes on the fourth evening from the
summit of a bold headland, which I have named
Cape Alexander after an only brother, whom I
love with an affection that the world, as it goes,
knows little of.
"Our journey was altogether a laborious one,
owing to the roughness of the ground, the icy
cold streams and swamps in which we were con-
stantly immersed, and the severity of the weather
on our return. Two or three of my men became
completely lame, and one is still laid up from
the fatigue then endured.
"On the 29th at dusk, we rejoined Mr. Dease
and our comrades at the boats. We had, on our
return, found a great change in the state of the
ice, which now only obstructed the shores, leaving
everywhere a clear offing. Had I not been,
304
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
like Sinbad the sailor, hampered with an old
man on my back, I should have immediately
turned eastward with both boats; but the appre-
hensions of my useless senior and of the crews
overpowered my single voice.
*
*
"We have made collections of minerals and
plants; and on Barry's Islands in Bathurst's In-
let, I had the good fortune to discover several
pieces of virgin copper. I have three pet white
wolves, which I found in a burrow at the height
of land in June; then little brindled pups, but
now fine stout fellows. They are remarkably
docile, and as fawning as spaniels. I mean to
train them to the sledge this winter; and (bar-
ring accidents) they shall have the honour of
carrying me out at the close of the expedition.
*** Our remnant of trading articles for the
Indians is very insignificant; but we have a
snug little stock of provisions, and have now
two or three good fall fisheries under way. Our
little buildings, too, are much improved; and I
hope to pass a quiet and comfortable winter,
after the long and fatiguing journeys of the two
last. Luxuries we have none, our only beverage
being the Arctic tea-plant infused without sugar.
For myself, I am still-and I glory in it-
but a clerk in their Honours' service, though I
have won a distinguished place among Northern
THOMAS SIMPSON.
305
Discoverers. I hope it may be as you say, that
a wider field will be opened to me; though I
confess I apprehend some slippery trick on the
part of the concern on which my discoveries
throw lustre. They cannot, however, bar the
foot of the throne against me. Back, it appears,
got 'back' after doing nothing. My anticipa-
tions in reference to next summer are more
sanguine than ever, from the knowledge so pain-
fully acquired this season."
These feelings of disappointment were much
soothed by the receipt, on the 27th of December,
of communications from England, intimating the
great interest excited by the publication of the
dispatches announcing the successful issue of the
expedition to Point Barrow. The commenda-
tions of the press were enthusiastic; and letters
expressed in terms of high encomium from her
Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies,
and the first Lord of the Admiralty, were for-
warded to him. Balm for a wounded spirit!
I may here mention that the narrative of the
comparatively unsuccessful campaign of 1838, as
given in this chapter, was, immediately on its
arrival in London, published in the "Times,"
and extensively copied into periodicals in all
parts of the world.
X
306
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
A high tribute was universally paid to the
ardour and hardihood exhibited by my brother,
the comparative failure justly ascribed to the
unpropitious season, and a strong confidence ex-
pressed in the ultimate success of the expedition.
The Geographical Society echoed public opinion
by bestowing upon my brother the gold medal
placed at its disposal by his Majesty William the
Fourth; a convincing proof that it esteemed him
the real director of the expedition.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
307
CHAPTER XVI.
Winter 1838-39.-Preparations for a renewed Arctic Voy-
Instructions to the Reserve. - Last Will.
age.
Com-
pletely Successful Expedition of Summer 1839.-Return
to Red River Colony.
I SHALL not enter into a lengthened detail of
the monotonous but fearfully precarious second
winter passed at the dreary and desolate Fort
Confidence; a monotony varied solely by un-
remitting and untiring exertions to guard against
starvation. Let the following brief dispatch tell
(and it tells concisely and vividly) of this winter
of care, anxiety, and privation.
"GENTLEMEN,
"Fort Confidence, May 1st, 1839.
"A winter of intense anxiety is nearly over
without mortality. But for our aid many of the
natives must have perished from hunger; for a
murder among themselves, last fall, paralysed
their energies, and, to add to this calamity, the
rein-deer forsook their lands.
“We have saved them through great sacrifices,
x 2
308
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and greater exertions. The environs of our win-
ter quarters have not been strewed with Indian
corpses; yet, by the practice of rigid frugality,
we are still in a condition to prosecute our dis-
coveries on the northern sea.
(C
•
Oolibuck, the Esquimaux interpreter, reached
this place with the regular winter packet on
the 13th ultimo. This valuable and unlooked
for acquisition we owe to Chief Factors Christie
and Charles, who engaged-to Chief Trader Todd
and the other gentlemen along the route, who
so promptly forwarded him to his destination.
"This winter has happily been less rigorous
than the terrible one of 1837-8. In sheltered
places indications of thaw already begin to appear
at mid-day; and in another month we may ex-
pect to see the surface of the earth again.
"Our boats are repaired; our provisions are
on the banks of the Coppermine; and as soon
as that impetuous river bursts its icy fetters in
June, the rest of the party will be there, with
hopes nowise damped by the hardships and lan-
guor of a second Polar winter.
"We have the honour, &c.,
"P. W. Dease,
"Thomas Simpson."
"To the Governor, Chief Factors, and
Chief Traders of the Northern Department."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
309
Previous to giving my brother's narrative of
the successful voyage of 1839, I wish to place
before the reader verbatim the "instructions "
which he penned for the small detachment left
behind at Fort Confidence-the reserve, I may
call it, of the expedition.
The party started with the determination to
succeed or perish; yet there is no symptom in
these instructions of a rash and careless indif-
ference of a confiding in the chapter of acci-
dents; on the contrary, they are as business-like,
clear, and distinct, as those which the most
martinet commissary could issue previous to a
march "from Ealing to Acton."
There was, indeed, a singular combination in
my brother's character, a combination to be
found in very few characters (The Duke, a con-
spicuous example among the few), of the most
daring courage, the most enthusiastic ardour,
with a sedulous attention to minute details, and
a most careful preparation of those "means and
appliances" which a cautious judgment pointed
out as likely to lead to success.
66 INSTRUCTIONS TO JOHN RITCH.
"1. Your principal care during the summer,
next to the safety of the establishment, will be
to keep two fisheries a-going under the charge
310
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
of Felix and Morrison, who, with the aid of
Indians, are to dry as many fish as possible.
"2. You will also trade their dried provisions
from the Indians; but all who wish to with-
draw to Forts Norman and Good Hope, should
be encouraged to do so; a very few of the best
hunters being sufficient for our purpose.
"3. About the middle of September a boat
manned by servants and natives, will arrive from
Fort Simpson with some ammunition, leather,
&c., (as per list 1,) of which you will be very
saving, in case of our having to pass part of
another winter at Fort Confidence. The boat's
crew to be placed as assistants to Felix and
Morrison, till required to return to Mackenzie's
River.
"4. We expect, God willing, to get back from
the coast on or before the 10th of October.
Should you not see or hear from us by that day,
you will, on the following, despatch the Mac-
kenzie River-boat with her crew, the families
at the establishment, private property, some of
the dogs, and everything not absolutely necessary
for subsistence at the place. You will put the
whole in charge of Felix, in whose stead you can
retain young Boucher; and to strengthen the
crew of the boat, you may add a couple of active
Indians, not encumbered with families, This
THOMAS SIMPSON.
311
boat you will provision with dried meat, (besides
dried fish for the dogs,) to Fort Simpson, de-
ducting from the requisite quantity two bags of
Pemican, now at Fort Norman, which you will
give Felix an order to receive. Should the fall
be early, and the strait threaten to freeze up
before the 10th of October, the boat must start
earlier, as it is essential that she reach Fort
Simpson by open water.
"5. The Pemican, &c., now here (as per list,
No. 2) besides what you are to make, ammuni-
tion, nets, axes, sledges, some leather, snow
shoes, and other articles pointed out to you must
be left here in case of our having to perform a
winter march to Fort Simpson, also the seven
best trains of dogs (as per list, No. 3).
"6. Should we unfortunately not get back to
winter quarters this season, you must maintain the
establishment till the 10th of October, 1840, and
on the first ice, 1839, send an express to Fort
Simpson (with a copy of these instructions), crav-
ing Chief Trader Macpherson's assistance and
advice.
"Fort Confidence, June 14th, 1839.
"List No. 1.—Articles expected from Mackenzie's River.
1 Keg Gunpowder.
11 Bag Ball.
12
""
Salt.
312
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
2 Bales containing 30 large Morseskins.
2 pieces strouds, (coarse cloth,) 1 white, 1
blue.
2 dozen yew handle knives.
""
files.
1 Roll Twist Tobacco.
2 Cents. Gunflints.
6 Small axes.
6 Skeins Twine, or net thread.
Wood for 5 dozen sledges.
15 pairs snow-shoes, and 5 axe helves.
"List No. 2.-Dried Provisions remaining at Fort Confi-
dence.
3 Bags Pemican.
3
3
""
Grease.
Flour.
“Also more than sufficient pounded meat to make, with two
of the bags of Grease, five more of Pemican-in all, twelve
pieces, upon which we depend on our return from the coast.
"List No. 3.-Dogs to be kept.
1st sledge-Brandy, Shanass, Toby.
2nd do. -Sansbec, Captain, Castor.
3rd do. Cervolant, Lion, Boatswain.
3th do. -Negre, Sauvage, Bob.
5th do. -Carlo, Whiskey, Wabistan.
6th do. -John Mackay's own train.
7th do. -Laurent's own two, and Teyma.
Felix's Tarrioke, and the Wolf to go out by the first boat."
Although my brother considerately represented
to me and his other relatives, that "the service is
by no means the desperate one it is represented
THOMAS SIMPSON.
313
to be," he himself was well aware of its extreme
risk, and previous to his departure executed his
Last Will (which has been acted on). It is
expressed as follows:-
"In the event of my death on the present
Arctic expedition, my worldly means, to the
best of my knowledge, will stand as follows:-
Five hundred pounds sterling in the hands of
the Hudson's Bay Company: my revisionary
share as a chief trader in that concern, worth,
at the utmost, fifteen hundred pounds sterling:
whatever monies the British Government may
award me for the acknowledged discovery in
the year 1837, of the long-sought North-west
passage, or may arise from the publication of
my maps and journal: and my half-share of a
house and garden in the town of Dingwall, in
the highlands of Scotland. Of these effects I
will and bequeath the sum of one thousand
pounds sterling, free of legacy duty and all
other charges, to my mother, Mrs. Mary Simp-
son of Dingwall, aforesaid. To my uncle, Duncan
Simpson, Esq., of Bellevue, near Beauly, in the
same county of Ross, and to his wife Mary jointly,
or to the survivor of them, I bequeath the sum of
one hundred pounds sterling and to Mrs.
Margaret Bain * of Dingwall aforesaid, twenty
* His old nurse.
314
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
pounds sterling, in like manner free from legacy
duty and all other charges. To my only brother,
Alexander Simpson, now, or lately, in the service
of the Hudson's Bay Company, and to his lawful
heirs I will and bequeath the residue of my
property as above stated; and all that may
accrue to me from any other source whatever,
saving and excepting my clothing, books, arms,
or other moveables, not specified, at Great Bear
Lake and Red River, to the value of one hundred
pounds sterling or thereby, which I appropriate
to satisfy any claims there may be against
me at the said colony of Red River. Should my
mother, uncle and aunt, or Mrs. Margaret Bain,
aforesaid, die before me, then, and in that case,
it is my will that the sums bequeathed to them
revert to my brother Alexander, and to his lawful
heirs. I further constitute and appoint my said
brother, Alexander Simpson, and my friend
Alexander Christie, Esq., at present Governor
of Red River colony, the executors of this my
last Will and Testament.
"In witness whereof I have hereunto set my
hand and seal in duplicate, at Fort Confidence,
Great Bear Lake, this eleventh day of June one
thousand eight hundred and thirty nine.
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
L.S.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
315
The following despatch narrates the completely
successful result of the summer's proceedings:-
"HONORABLE SIRS,
"Fort Simpson, October 16, 1839.
"We have the honour to report the comple-
tion of all the primary objects of the expedition-
the entire fulfilment of Governor Simpson's ori-
ginal instructions, under which it has been our
good fortune to act, and something more, though,
as we plainly told your Honours last winter, it
was quite out of the question to think of reaching
the straits of the Fury and Hecla from the Cop-
permine River.
"On the 22nd of June we descended that im-
petuous stream to the Bloody Fall, where we
remained until the 28th. This interval was
employed by Mr. Simpson in exploring Richard-
son's River, discovered in 1838, which discharges
itself, as we then supposed, into the bottom of
Back's Inlet, in lat. 67° 53′ 57″ N., long. 115°
56′ W. A party of about thirty Esquimaux
were encamped there, all of whom fled pre-
cipitately to the hills, except one family, whose
tent was placed on an island in the stream.
With these last a communication was opened,
through our interpreter, Oolibuck; but the circle
of their little lives being confined to Behrens'
316
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Isles and the borders of Richardson's River, they
had no information to impart of any value.
"On the 3rd of July, the first slight opening
occurred in the sea ice, of which we took instant
advantage; but our first week's journey did not
exceed twenty miles, and it was the 18th, after
sad work, before we could attain Cape Barrow.
From its rocky heights we beheld with equal
surprise and delight, the wide extent of Coro-
nation Gulf partially open, whereas, long after
the same date in 1838, the whole party might
have crossed it on foot. At midnight on the
20th, we landed at Cape Franklin, just one
month earlier than Mr. Simpson's arrival there,
on his pedestrian journey of the year before. A
violent easterly gale arrested our progress for the
next four days, and on the 27th and 28th, we
encountered great peril in doubling Cape Alexan-
der, amidst very heavy driving ice.
"From Cape Alexander, situate in lat. 68° 56′
N., long. 106° 40′ W., to another remarkable
point in lat. 68° 33′ N., long. 98° 10′ W., the
Arctic coast may be comprised in one spacious
bay, stretching as far south as lat. 67° 40′,
before it turns off abruptly northward, to the last
mentioned position. This vast sweep, of which
but an inconsiderable portion was seen by Mr.
Simpson last year, is indented by an endless suc-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
317
cession of minor bays separated from one another
by long narrow projecting points of land, enclosing
an incalculable number of islands.
"From this description, it will be evident that
our route was an extremely intricate one, and
the duties of the survey most harassing; but,
whilst perplexed beyond measure in finding our
way through these labyrinths, we derived great
advantage from the protection afforded by the
islands from the crushing force of the seaward
ice, and the weather was generally clear. In
fact, the most serious detention caused by ice on
this part of the voyage, was from the 1st to the
5th of August, on a point that jutted out beyond
the insular chain. White Bear Point, as it was
called, lies in lat. 68° 7' 85″ N., long. 104° 36'
45″ W., variation 54° 45′ E. These bays and
masses of islands present a distinct succession of
geological features, which can be best illustrated
by our series of specimens of the rocks that
compose this wild and barren coast. Vestiges
of Esquimaux, mostly old, were met with where-
ever we landed. They appear to subsist in
single families, or very small parties, and to
travel inland for the deer hunt in the month of
June, not returning to their sealing islands till
the ice sets fast in October. A river twice the
size of the Coppermine, which falls into the sea
318
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
in lat. 68° 2′ N., long. 104° 15′ W., is much
resorted to by reindeer and musk oxen, in the
summer season.
66
Finding the coast as already remarked, trend-
ing northerly from the bottom of the great bay,
we expected nothing less than to be carried round
Cape Felix of Captain James Ross, contrary to the
conjecture hazarded by Mr. Simpson, in his nar-
rative of last year's journey. On the evening of
the 10th of August, however, (at the last point
already given,) we suddenly opened a strait run-
ning in to the soutward of east, where the rapid
rush of the tide scarcely left a doubt of the exist-
ence of an open sea leading to the mouth of
Back's Great Fish River. This strait is ten
miles wide at either extremity, but contracts to
three in the centre. Even the narrow channel
is much encroached upon by high shingle islands,
but there is deep water in the middle throughout.
"The 12th of August was signalised by the
most terrific thunder-storm we have ever wit-
nessed in these regions. Next day it blew rough-
ly from the westward, with a very dense cold
fog, but we ran rapidly south-east, passed Point
Richardson and Point Ogle of Sir George Back,
and continued on till the darkness of night and
the increasing gale drove us ashore beyond Point.
Pechell. The storm shifted to the north-east,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
319
and lasted till the 16th, when we directed our
course, with flags flying, to the Montreal Island.
On its northern side our people, guided by
Mackay, soon found a deposit made among the
rocks by some of Sir George Back's party, but,
as Mackay seemed to think, without that officer's
knowledge. It contained two bags of pemican,
and a quantity of cocoa and chocolate, all per-
fectly rotten, besides an old tin vasculum, and
two or three other trivial articles, of which we
took possession as memorials of our having break-
fasted on the identical spot where the tent of
our gallant, though less successful, precursor
stood on his return from Point Ogle to the
Great Fish River, that very day five years be-
fore.
"The arduous duty we had, in 1836, under-
taken to perform, was thus fully accomplished;
and the length and difficulty of the route back
to the Coppermine would have amply justified
our immediate return. We had all suffered more
or less from the want of fuel, and the deprivation
of warm food; and the prospects grew more
cheerless as the cold weather stole on apace;
but having already ascertained the separation of
Boothia from the American continent, on the
western side of the Great Fish River, we de-
termined not to desist till we had settled its
320
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
relation thereto on the eastern side also. A fog
which had come on dispersed towards evening,
and unfolded a full view of the picturesque
shores of the estuary. Far to the southward,
Victoria Headland stood forth so clearly defined,
that we instantly recognised it by Sir George
Back's exquisite drawing. Cape Beaufort we
almost seemed to touch; and with the telescope
we were able to discern a continuous line of high
land as far round as north-east, about two points
more northerly than Cape Hay, the extreme
eastern point seen by Sir George Back.
"The traverse to the furthest visible land oc-
cupied six hours' unremitting labour at the oar,
and the sun was rising on the 17th when we
scaled the bluff and singularly shaped Rocky
Cape, to which our course had been directed.
It stands in latitude 68° 3′ 56″ N., longitude 94°
35′ W. The azimuth compass, by Jones, settled
exactly in the true meridian, and agreed with
two others, by the same maker, placed on the
ground. From our proximity to the magnetic
pole, the compass had latterly been of little or no
use; but this was of the less consequence, as
the astronomical observations were very frequent.
The dip of the needle, which at Thunder Cove
(12th of August) was 89° 29′ 35″, had here de-
creased to 89° 16′ 40″ N. This bold promon-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
321
tory, where we lay wind-bound till the 19th,
was named Cape Britannia, in remembrance of
our glorious country. On the beetling rock that
sheltered our encampment from the sea, and
forms the most conspicuous object on all this
part of the coast, we erected a conical pile of
ponderous stones, fourteen feet high, that, if not
pulled down by the natives, may defy the rage
of a thousand storms. In it was placed a sealed
bottle, containing a sketch of our proceedings,
and possession was taken of our extensive dis-
coveries in the name of Victoria I., amidst the
firing of guns and the enthusiastic cheers of the
whole party.
"On the 19th the gale shifted from north-
east to east-south-east, and after crossing a fine
bay, due east, with no small toil and danger,
the coast bent away north-east, which enabled
us to effect a run of forty miles. Next day
the wind resumed its former direction, and after
pulling against it all the morning among the
shoals and breakers, and gaining only three miles,
we were obliged to take refuge in the mouth
of a small river.
"From a limestone ridge, about a league in-
land, we obtained a view of some very remote
blue land in the north-east quarter, in all pro-
bability one of the southern promontories of
Y
322
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Boothia. Two considerable islands lay far in the
offing, and others, high and distant, stretched
from east to east-north-east.
"Our view of the low main shore was con-
fined to five miles in an easterly direction, after
which it appeared to turn off greatly to the
right. We could, therefore, scarcely doubt our
having arrived at that large gulf uniformly de-
scribed by the Esquimaux as containing many
islands, and with numerous indentations stretch-
ing down to the southward, till it approaches
within forty miles of Repulse and Wager Bays.
The exploration of such a gulf, which was the
main object of the Terror's ill-starred voyage,
would necessarily demand the whole time and
energies of another expedition, having a starting
or retreating point much nearer to the scene of
operations than Great Bear Lake; and it was
quite evident to us that any further foolhardy
perseverance could only lead to the loss of the
great object already attained, together with that
of the whole party.
"We must here be allowed to express our
admiration of Sir John Ross's extraordinary es-
cape from this neighbourhood, after the pro-
tracted endurance of hardships, unparalleled in
arctic story.
"The mouth of the stream which bounded
THOMAS SIMPSON.
323
the last career of our admirable little boats, and
received their name, lies in lat. 68° 28′ 27″ N.,
long. 97° 3′ W., variation of the compass 16° 20′
W. The strong wind that had forbidden our
advance gave wings to our retreat. The same
night, the 20th of August, we landed once more
at Cape Britannia, and next morning we crossed
the inlet direct to Point Pechell, with a heavy
sea. On the 22nd we explored a long narrow
bay on the west side of Point Ogle, which ex-
tends to the sixty-eighth parallel of latitude.
The north wind blew roughly, with sharp frost;
and next day we got no further than Point
Richardson. Thence we crossed over on the
24th to what had, from the continent, appeared
like two islands, but which we rightly conjec-
tured to form part of the southern shore of
Boothia, or, to speak with greater precision, of
that land on which stands Cape Felix of Captain
James Ross. This shore we had the satisfaction
of tracing for about sixty miles, till it turned
up to the north, in lat. 68° 41′ 16″ N., long. 98°
22′ W., only fifty-seven miles from Ross's Pillar.
The dip of the needle was 89° 28′ 45″ N., the
magnetic pole bearing north-north-east, distant
ninety miles. The variation, as shown by both
the azimuth compass and the horizontal bar
needle, was 45° east. The objects seen on this
Y 2
324
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
coast are easily enumerated-a low uninteresting
limestone tract, abounding nevertheless in rein-
deer, musk oxen, and old native encampments.
To the westward a good deal of ice appeared, and
vast numbers of snow-geese passed high over-
head in long triangular flights, bound for milder
skies.
"Whilst engaged in taking observations, our
men constructed another durable memorial of our
discoveries, which was saluted in the usual man-
ner. Then recrossing the strait on the 25th
we resumed for some time our outward route,
only keeping more along the seaward verge of
the islands so as to shape a straighter course.
"The weather, from being threatening and un-
settled, soon became unequivocally severe. On
the 29th of August a snow storm began that
lasted for seven days, during four days of which
we were fixed to a single spot by the violence of
the north-west gales, while the frost was so keen
that the pools among the rocks on which we
lay became solid enough to bear up a man.
A more moderate interval succeeded this fierce
outbreak. Quitting the continent again, at the
large river already mentioned, we struck north-
north-west for an extensive island twenty-two
miles off, which we coasted north-west for
twenty miles; and shortly before sunset on the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
325
6th of September stood out thence due north
for the nearest point of Victoria Land, which
proved equally distant. We have never seen
anything more brilliant than the phosphoric
gleaming of the waves when darkness set in.
The boats seemed to cleave a flood of molten
silver, and the spray, dashed from their bows
before the fresh breeze, fell back like showers of
diamonds into the deep. It was a cold night,
and when we at last made the land, cliffs, faced
with eternal ice, obliged us to run on for a
couple of leagues before we could take the shore
with safety. The coast of Victoria Land, which
we explored for upwards of one hundred and
fifty miles, is incomparably the boldest we
have met with in these seas. Often near the
shore no bottom could be found with thirty-five
fathoms of line, and the cerulean blue colour
of the water everywhere indicated a profound
depth. There are several noble bays, the largest
of which, north-west of Cape Alexander, is
twenty miles wide and equally deep, backed
by snow-clad mountains. It attains to 69° 40′
north, the highest latitude of this voyage.
"At length we reached the extreme point
seen by Mr. Simpson from Cape Franklin in
1838, where the coast of this large country
begins again to trend northward of west, Cape
326
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
1
Barrow lying by computation south-south-west,
distant fifty miles. On the 10th September
we crossed this magnificent strait with a strong
east-south-east or side wind and a rough sea
in which our gallant boats, old and worn out
as they were, acquitted themselves beyond our
most sanguine hopes. Our return from Cape
Barrow was miserably retarded by furious north-
west winds and severe stress of weather. Winter
permanently set in on the 15th September, and
next day to the undisguised joy of the whole party,
we re-entered the Coppermine River, after by
far the longest voyage ever performed in boats on
the Polar Sea.
66
Leaving one of our little craft, together with
the remains of the pemican (which through age
and long exposure was become quite mouldy),
and various other articles, as a prize to the first
Esquimaux who may visit the Bloody Fall, we as-
cended the river with our double crew in four days,
abandoned our tents, and everything but absolute
necessaries, crossed the barren grounds up to the
knees in snow, having unluckily left our snow-
shoes on the coast, and safely reached Fort Confi-
dence at dusk on the 24th. The fisheries had
failed sooner than ever, and we had good reason to
congratulate ourselves on not being doomed to
pass a third winter within the Arctic Circle.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
327
"After settling with the Indians, liberally
rewarding the most deserving, and supplying
all with ammunition gratuitously, we took our de-
parture on the evening of the 26th in two inland
batteaux: one belonged to the expedition, the
other came from Fort Simpson sixteen days before
our arrival.
"Our passage of Great Bear Lake was most
boisterous and inclement; in crossing the body of
the lake and other considerable traverses our
boats, with everything in them, and even the very
clothes on our backs, became converted into
shapeless masses and concretions of ice. It was
high time for us to escape from Great Bear Lake,
for the temperature, which was at 4° below zero
when we landed at the head of the river on the
evening of the 4th of October, fell 10° lower in
the course of the night, and next day we descended
the rapid stream in the very midst of the driving
ice. On entering the Mackenzie we experienced
a temporary mitigation of this excessive cold;
but we should most assuredly have stuck fast
above Fort Norman had not the northern gales
again arose in their strength, and while they
shattered and dispersed the rapidly forming ice,
enabled us to stand the current under close
reefed sails. At noon, on the 14th October,
after forcing our way with no small risk through
328
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
the torrent of ice forced out by the rivers of the
mountains, we reached this place, and were
cordially welcomed by our valuable friend Chief
Trader Macpherson, who had for some time given
up all hopes of our arrival.
"Most of our people are still afflicted with
acute pains and swellings in the limbs, caused by
cold and exposure, and we are assured by Mr.
Macpherson that he has never known or heard of
so early or rigorous a commencement of winter
in Mackenzie's River; on the other hand, so fine
a spring as that of 1839 seldom visits these frozen
regions, and to this favouring circumstance, un-
der Providence, ought our signal success to be
partly ascribed.
"October 30th.-The state of the ice at length
enables us to despatch couriers to Slave Lake.
In the mean time Governor Simpson's highly
valued letter of the 17th of June, which unfor-
tunately missed us in our way hither, has cast up
overland. We rejoice in having anticipated the
Russian expedition, and secured to our country
and the Company the indisputable honour of
discovering the north-west passage, which has
been an object of search to all maritime nations
for three centuries. When our expedition was
planned at Norway House, in 1836, it was confi-
dently expected that Sir George Back would
THOMAS SIMPSON.
329
have achieved the survey of the Gulf of Boothia
with the Terror's boats, and that our meeting
at the mouth of the Great Fish River would have
left no blank in the geography of Northern
America. That officer's failure, the exhaustion
of our men and means, and the necessity of a
new wintering ground, render a fresh expedition
indispensable for the examination of the Gulf of
Boothia, the circuit of which to the Strait of the
Fury and Hecla, according to the Esquimaux
accounts, cannot be less than four hundred or five
hundred miles. It only remains for us to recom-
mend to your approbation the plan proposed by
Mr. Simpson to perfect this interesting service,
which, as he has no wish to avail himself of the
leave of absence"granted, he is prepared to follow
up whenever the limited means required are
placed at his disposal.
"We have the honour to be your most obe-
dient, humble servants,
"PETER W. DEASE.
66
THOMAS SIMPSON."
"To the Governor, Deputy-Governor,
and Committee of the Hudson's Bay
Company, London."
From the 14th of October to the 2nd of
December, my brother remained at Fort Simp-
330
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
son-a period not of indolence, for during it he
completed his Narrative of the Expedition; and
had much occupation with the calculations, and in
drawing up the charts of the eastern discoveries.
On the last named day he took his departure
from Fort Simpson. The incidents of the
journey to Red River I shall not narrate in detail.
The distance is about nineteen statute hundred
miles, and it was performed in sixty-one days,
all stoppages included! Even this excessive
toil was insufficient to exhaust the energies
of such tried travellers as were himself and
Mackay, and Sinclair, the picked men of the
party, who followed him with unshrinking confi-
dence through all dangers and privations. After
a day's march of seventy miles, they revelled on
the morrow in the delights of a ball and tea supper.
On the 2nd of February 1840, my brother
returned in safety to his point of departure, Red
River colony, after an absence of three years and
two months, marked by toils, perils, and priva-
tions, such as have seldom been endured.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
331
CHAPTER XVII.
Schemes for a renewed Expedition.-Their Reception by Go-
vernor Simpson; by the Directors of the Hudson's Bay
Company.
BEFORE entering upon the wide field of dis-
covery to the eastward of the Coppermine
River, my brother foresaw, that the fulfilment
of his original plan would not complete the
exploration of the Arctic Coast of America;
that under any circumstances, there was work
there for two summers unless Sir George Back
succeeded in his intended exploration from Wager
River.
The season of 1837 had been uncommonly
inclement in the southern regions of Hudson's
Bay; and conceiving from this, that it was im-
possible for the expedition to have accomplished
its western object that summer, Governor Simp-
son gave authority to the officers to take a second
year for that portion, and then devote a third
summer to the eastern line of coast.
332
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
This additional authority was eagerly embraced
by my brother for the eastern line, now that
the western line was complete. He accepts it
in these words,-" Now that we are fairly under
way,
I should consider it shameful to grow
wearied like our predecessors with one or even
two campaigns.
"I rejoice in the full power you have given
us to prolong our sojourn here, as I see to the
eastward a probable field for the labours of two
summers.
"Mr. Dease acceded to my proposal to that
effect. We have taken, accordingly, measures
to obtain the supplies absolutely required for
subsistence from Athabasca and Mackenzie Ri-
ver; and have written to York Factory for the
Nautical Almanac for 1839, which, as I informed
you from Norway House, and again from Red
River, cannot be dispensed with. My ideas are
as follows:-
"This ensuing summer (1838) we expect to fulfil
our original instructions, that is, to attain the Strait
of James Ross, to reach the mouth of the Great
Fish River, and, if possible, to determine the
continuity or separation of Boothia Felix and the
continent.
"Should they prove united either to the west
or east of Great Fish River, then the North-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
333
west passage' will still remain an undecided
question; the whole coast from Ross's Magnetic
Pole northward, to Cape Walker of Parry, being
unexplored.
"That is what I propose in 1839, an en-
terprise surpassing anything that has been at-
tempted in boats. Yet, if we can bring our
little craft to a place of safety this fall, are
not disappointed in provisions, and are favoured
by Providence with a good season, I have strong
hopes of a crowning result.
'Even should we have to winter with the
Esquimaux in Ross's Strait, do not give us up
for lost, as we have our eyes upon every con-
tingency.
After his discovery of a clear sea to the east-
ward of Cape Alexander in 1838, on which, as we
have seen, he was prevented from embarking that
season by the inertness of his brother officer,
he thus details his schemes for future discovery:
66
Fully aware of the imprudence of making
statements in public documents which unfore-
seen circumstances may overthrow, I have not
in our reply to their Honours' dispatch proposed
any specific plan for completing the surveys
which our ensuing voyage may leave unfinished.
Indeed, it is impossible at present to say what
those unfinished parts may be, or how much;
334
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
for, though in our letter we state that we only
anticipate reaching the Great Fish River- our
original limit-yet if we can by any means pe-
netrate further, you may rely upon it that we
will do so.
"I rejoice that you have resolved at all events
upon pushing these discoveries to Hudson's Bay;
and I gladly devote life and limb to their com-
pletion. I should greatly prefer finishing the
whole before going home to publish any part
of our travels.
66
"The present expedition must undoubtedly
terminate with next voyage; for our men, boats,
goods, provisions, all are worn out and exhausted.
My esteemed friend, Mr. Dease, complains
frequently of his eyesight, which, with family
cares, was, I believe, the cause of his anxiety to
conclude matters last fall. Should another ex-
pedition then be necessary, I would readily un-
dertake to conduct it into the north next year.
"One vital point in such a service, is to have
as few mouths to feed as possible. A post-master
and fisherman for the establishment, eight ser-
vants and myself for the sea, would be sufficient;
say eleven persons in all, which is only half
the number of souls appertaining to Fort Con-
fidence.
"All the preparations could be easily arranged
THOMAS SIMPSON.
335
on my journey out next winter. At Fort Chipe-
wyan, a quantity of pemican and leather would
have to be provided, and two small sea-boats
built in spring 1840. At Norway House, the re-
quisite supply of flour, grease, ammunition, and
other goods might be procured; and there would
be no want of volunteers for a service so popular.
One boat would convey ourselves and all our
wants in company with the Portage-la-loche
Brigade to Fort Chipewyan, where, assuming the
two sea-boats, and stock of pemican, &c., we
could reach either Fort Reliance or this place
in good time in September 1840; and my first
act would be to establish the fall fishery.
"This is the simplest, cheapest, and most expe-
ditious plan of operations that I can devise; and
I hope that you will have no objections to entrust
me with a discretionary power to make the neces-
sary arrangements, if the result of our approaching
voyage shall be found to justify them, so that
no time may be lost.
"If Boothia Felix turn out an island, and
that we are unable to get beyond it this year, a
very likely way of reaching the Straits of the
Fury and Hecla would be to pass the first winter
at Fort Reliance; and while the exploring party
is engaged the following summer on the coast, the
post-master and fisherman, with the aid of In-
336
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
dians, to come round to this place, (Fort Confi-
dence,) which, from its proximity to the sea,
(eight days on foot,) we might attain when the
season would be too far advanced to attempt
the ascent of Great Fish River.
"Neither do I despair of getting to Cape
Walker of Parry in some way or other, should
Boothia prove a peninsula. The distance is
great; but I would not scruple to undertake it
with one boat transported as far as possible over
the ice from the mouth of the Coppermine, as
soon as that river breaks up, in the latter end
of June; the other boat following, with the bulk
of the provisions, as the navigation opened. In
short, I see no difficulty which does not also
present some means for overcoming itself. These
are, of course, mere conjectures now; but what-
ever wintering ground may be found most eligi-
ble, the party and means should be the same.
"The expense of finishing what will remain
undetermined by the present expedition may, I
think, be safely assumed at half its cost. No
one can have more reason than myself to wish
that this year may witness the conclusion of our
labours in this dreary region; but if, as I have
supposed in this letter, another expedition be
required, in consequence of Captain Back's fail-
ure to the eastward, I again offer myself unre-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
337
servedly to command it on the scale which I
have proposed."
To this chivalrous proposal, no direct answer
was made; the following cold "Red Tape" pa-
ragraph was all that reached my brother, when
he was returning flushed with success in having
achieved more than his own plan, and the in-
structions founded on it, pointed out.
"We observe that, whether successful or other-
wise, in accomplishing the survey to Great Fish
River, you are not prepared to continue the ope-
rations of the expedition next year, which is
to be regretted, as we were in hopes that, after
that section of the coast had been surveyed, you
would have been in a condition to push your
discoveries to the Straits of the Fury and Hecla.
That, however, we find cannot be done under
any circumstances; you may therefore repair to
the depôt, and take a winter's leave of absence
if agreeable to you, by way of recruiting after
your severe and hazardous labours; during which
I have no doubt plans will be matured for com-
pleting this very difficult and interesting service,
which cannot be allowed to fall to the ground
while a shadow of hope remains that there is
a possibility of accomplishing it."*
* The same dispatch conveyed a hope that the expedition
had returned from the coast by the Great Fish River.
Z
338
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
How this cold evasion was viewed by my
brother's high spirit, may be judged from his
reply.
"Fort Simpson, October 25, 1839.
"So far from wishing to avail myself of the
leave of absence, which you have so kindly
offered unasked, it gives me great uneasiness
that a whole year will probably elapse before
the final expedition can be set on foot that is
destined to accomplish this North-east, as my
excursion to Point Barrow in 1837 achieved the
North-west Passage.
"Probably you considered the discretion I soli-
That the writer of the dispatch, (and recipient of honors in
virtue of having concerted the plans of the expedition,) knew
very little of the matter, is well shown by the reply made
to it :-
"With this early winter, had we resolved on ascending the
Great Fish River, we should in all probability have been set
fast hundreds of miles from Fort Reliance; and the bones
of some of the party would have been now bleaching on the
barren grounds. But, supposing that the fall had been fine,
and that we had, like Back, got within a couple of days' jour-
ney of Fort Reliance, and crossed the interior mountains on
foot, what should we have found at Fort Reliance ? A
parcel of blackened ruins, without provisions, resources, or
craft, to convey us over the vast length and across the inter-
minable arms of Great Slave Lake, so that our fate there
would have been much the same as in the Gulf of Boothia.
By going up the Great Fish River, under any circumstances,
our most valuable magnetical observations would have been
THOMAS SIMPSON.
339
cited in my letter of the 31st of January too
great, at least I infer so from your silence on
that head.
*
*
*
"As for what remains to be done, I am so
far from seeking to convert it to my future
advantage, that, with my life, I hereby place
at your disposal, towards meeting the expenses
of the new expedition, should there be any ob-
stacle, the sum of five hundred pounds, being
every shilling I am worth at this moment, be-
sides all the future proceeds of my double com-
mission, till the whole charge of the said expe-
dition shall be redeemed.
"Fame I will have, but it must be alone. My
worthy colleague on the late expedition frankly
acknowledges his having been a perfect super-
numerary; and to the extravagant and profli-
gate habits of half-breed families I have an
insuperable aversion.
"The coast, from the Strait of the Fury and
Hecla to York Factory, is still more dangerous
for boats than that which we have tried so well
this season; but my whole soul is set upon it,
wanting; and the extensive southern coasts of Boothia and
Victoria Land would have remained unexplored; for it was
only our return to the Coppermine that enabled us to accom-
plish the double survey. After this explanation, I trust that
the subject will be fully understood, and the soundness and
humanity of our judgment felt."
z 2
340
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
and I feel an irresistible presentiment that I
am destined to bear the Honourable Company's
flag fairly through and out of the Polar Sea."
Finding that his proffers were at least coldly
received by his relative, whose jealousy of his
rising name was now but ill disguised, my
brother addressed to the Directors of the Com-
pany a direct dispatch on the same subject, con-
veying his plan of an expedition to complete the
survey of the Gulf of Boothia; and a bold,
daring, but perfectly feasible plan it is!
"Fort Simpson, October 18th, 1839.
HONOURABLE SIRS,
"My much-esteemed friend, Chief Factor
Dease, has made over to me his claim to the
command of another expedition, which, from
the tenor of your Honours' dispatches, you will
doubtless determine on setting on foot for ex-
ploring the Gulf of Boothia, the only section
of the Arctic coast of America now unknown;
I am therefore emboldened to lay before your
Honours a plan for the accomplishment of this
important undertaking, which I humbly think
can scarcely fail of success.
"The position of the Great Fish River, fall-
ing into the sea in the vicinity of the unex-
plored coast, clearly points it out as the best
THOMAS SIMPSON.
341
egress to the scene of operations. True, it pos-
sesses no advantages over the Coppermine as
a channel of retreat: on the contrary, the diffi-
culties would, in such an early winter as the
present, be greatly aggravated; but, as a start-
ing point, it offers the immense superiority of
bringing the party upon the field one month
earlier. As compared with Churchill, its supe-
riority in respect to time is still greater; there
remains, therefore, not the shadow of a doubt
that Fort Reliance ought to be the wintering
ground of the proposed expedition.
"The party should consist of thirteen men,
including the Esquimaux interpreter, and a per-
son qualified to act in the double capacity of
boat-builder and summer-master; the latter with
two fishermen to remain at the establishment.
The other ten men to accompany myself to the
sea; and, with two Indians, form the crews of
two small boats, to be built in the course of the
winter at Artillery Lake. I have personally be-
spoke the services 'if required' of Mackay and
Sinclair, the only steersmen in the country who
are acquainted with the long and dangerous na-
vigation of the Great Fish River. The requisite
supply of provisions can be procured at Atha-
basca, and the trading goods brought from the
depôt next spring, to be in readiness for starting
342
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
either in 1840 or 1841, as you may decide.
Should it be my good fortune to obtain your
Honours' confidence and sanction, there are two
points upon which I would require discretionary
power. The first, to employ two seasons on the
coast, if necessary; the second, to be permitted
either to fall back on the Great Fish River, or to
push through the Straits of the Fury and Hecla,
and make my way to York Factory. The latter
course, if practicable, would be by far the most ac-
cordant with my feelings; and I have only to add
in conclusion, that I am ready and willing to
devote not only my life, but my means to the
achievement of an enterprise that cannot fail
to confer new lustre on the Honourable Com-
pany's name.
“With the utmost respect,
"I have the honour to remain,
"Honourable Sirs,
"Your most obedient humble servant,
(Signed) "THOMAS SIMPSON."
"P.S.-A portable barometer and a superior
pocket chronometer would be required by the
earliest opportunity The barometer formerly
sent us was broken on the way from Canada,
and I cannot, with any propriety, retain C. F.
Smith's valuable watch longer."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
343
The Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company
agreed to the project laid before them by my
brother. The success which had crowned his
past exertions, indeed, presaged for the new ex-
pedition, a conclusion honourable alike to them-
selves and to him.
Their letter of acceptance is couched in the
following terms:-
"Reverting to the subject of the Arctic Dis-
covery Expedition, the gallantry and excellent
management manifested by Messrs. Dease and
Simpson in that arduous and interesting service,
and the good conduct of the people under their
conduct, entitle them to our warmest commenda-
tions. The valuable and important services of
Messrs. Dease and Simpson have been brought
under the consideration of Her Majesty's Go-
vernment, who have not, as yet, noticed the
subject.
"We observe that Mr. Dease avails himself
of the leave of absence that has been afforded
him, with the intention of visiting Canada, this
season; and that Mr. Simpson volunteers to
conduct another expedition, with the view of
continuing the survey from the mouth of the
Great Fish River, to the Straits of the Fury and
Hecla. We have much satisfaction in availing
344
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
ourselves of that gentleman's proferred services;
you will, therefore, be pleased to meet any
demands that may be made by Mr. Simpson for
men, goods, provisions, craft &c., &c.; and to
take the necessary measures to give effect through-
out the country, to that gentleman's views and
wishes, in reference to the important and
arduous service on which he is about to re-
enter."
This letter never reached my brother; it was
dated on the third of June, 1840, and sent out by
the Hudson's Bay ships.
1
THOMAS SIMPSON.
345
CHAPTER XVIII.
Letters written to the Author from Red River Colony.-
Departs for England, viâ the Prairies. -"Last scene of
all."-Depositions of the Survivors, and Observations there-
on.-Appearance.-Character.
LETTER TO THE AUTHOR.
"Red River, May 26, 1840.
"MY DEAREST ALEXANDER,
"I HAVE now to thank you warmly for your very
kind and affectionate letters of June and July
last, from Lake Winipeg, and of the 6th October
from Boat Encampment. Your account of your
journey up the Saskatchewan is so amusing,
and you are likely to see so many strange and
semi-barbarous scenes on the Californian coast,
and in the Sandwich Islands, that I would
strongly recommend your keeping a journal,
with a view to publication. A light and amus-
ing book of travels through countries so very
little known, dealing more in anecdote than
in scientific details (of which last I for one am
tired enough) would be sure to sell, and bring
346
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
reputation to the writer. How delightful it
would be to me, could we both before the decline
of life, the sear and yellow leaf,' win a comfort-
able retreat together in our native land, having
but one heart, one soul, and one united family!
The friendship of the world I know and feel to
be vain and worthless; ours will endure fresh and
unchangeable till death. I fancy you will be
taking to wife ere long some dark-eyed Señora.
You would be a lucky fellow could you fall upon
one with ingots enough to emancipate you from
Fur Trade thraldom. Wretchedness is the in-
evitable portion of all who remain too long in
this service.
"My own situation at present is a very sin-
gular one-uncertain till the canoes arrive
whether I shall turn my face again to the
North Pole, or towards Merry England.
In
the mean time I shall give you a brief sketch
of our last year's eventful labours.
"The spring of 1839 was unusually early,
though at Fort Confidence we had the thermo-
meter at 15° below zero in May. On the 28th
of July we attained my extreme pedestrian
limit of the 25th of August 1838. From thence
the coast forms a stupendous bay, full of indenta-
tions, and perplexed with myriads of islands,
which, however, tended to fend off the ice, as far
THOMAS SIMPSON.
347
as Cape Geddes in lat. 68° 33′ N., lon. 98° 10′
W. Here, where we least expected it, opened
the disputed Strait of Boothia, ten miles wide at
either extremity, but only three in the centre.
Through this narrow pass we made our way,
and on the 16th of August landed on Back's
Montreal Island, where we found a Cache of
pemican, chocolate, and other articles left there
"All we had undertaken to perform was thus
achieved, but we, or rather I, resolved to do more,
and we accordingly crossed the estuary to a
distant headland, which we discovered and named
Cape Britannia. The line of no variation passes
through this bold promontory, on whose summit
we erected a lofty pile of stones, and took
possession of our extensive discoveries in the
name of our sweet little Queen. We penetrated
about fifty miles further to the north-eastward,
and the land then turning off to the right, there
seemed every probability of our having attained
the western side of the great Gulf of Boothia,
which, according to Esquimaux report, runs far
down to the southward, approaching within forty
miles of Repulse and Wager Bays, and then
turning up northward to the Strait of the Fury
and Hecla. The circuit of this unknown gulf
must be about five hundred miles, being all that
now remains unexplored of the northern shores of
348
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
America. It was an extent far beyond our
reach, and on the 20th of August the adverse
gales compelled us to return. On our way back
we first struck across to Boothia, the southern
coast of which we examined for sixty miles,
leaving it at "Cape Herschel," fifty-seven miles
south of Ross's Pillar, and ninety S.S.W. of
the magnetic pole, the dip of the needle wanting
only 31' of the perpendicular. After this, by
means of wide traverses, we reached the Victoria
Land discovered and named by me in 1838,
whose southern coast we explored for a hundred
and fifty-six geographical miles, crossing several
magnificent bays, which I named after the Duke
of Wellington and other high personages, and
from Victoria Land we got back to the continent
at Cape Barrow by a good traverse of fifty-five
statute miles. We had throughout the season a
great deal of rough and dangerous sailing, much
to the discomfort of my worthy friend Mr. Dease,
who was quite out of his element. Winter
began on the 29th of August, set in with great
severity on the 15th of September, and on the
16th we made our joyful entry into the Copper-
mine, after by far the longest voyage ever per-
formed in boats on the Polar Sea. We crossed
the barren grounds knee-deep in snow, had the
thermometer at 14° below zero in Bear Lake,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
349
and with great risk and difficulty reached Fort
Simpson, amidst very heavy drift-ice, on the
14th of October.
"On the 2nd of December, I quitted that snug
place with my maps, &c., and, after an unri-
valled winter-journey of two months, was wel-
comed back to Red River by 'King Duncan,' and
other friends. I have since been awaiting my
future destiny with impatience, and the moment
it is decided shall write you again; till then
adieu !
"Ever your most affectionate brother,
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
The annual canoes from Canada, which arrived.
on the 2nd of June 1840, brought him no ratifica-
tion of his plan, nor news of the reception given
by the public to the intelligence of the complete
and brilliant success of the previous summer's
expedition; indeed, the letters conveying this
information did not reach England in time to
be acknowledged by that opportunity. The rati-
fication of his plan by the Directors of the Com-
pany was transmitted to America by the ships
which sail for Hudson's Bay in June; and much
anxiety was expressed by them that he should
immediately enter on his renewed labours. Un-
fortunately, the proceedings of their local repre-
350
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
sentative, Sir George Simpson, had been very dif-
ferent. He had, as we have seen, thrown cold
water on my brother's proposals when they were
first submitted to him; and now effectually pre-
vented the immediate organization of a renewed
expedition, which the resident officers of the
Company would possibly have undertaken at my
brother's solicitation on their own responsibility,
by desiring his presence in England.
With his usual promptness, my brother at once
determined to comply with this intimation; and
chose for his journey the most direct and speedy,
but the most hazardous and fatiguing route.
The following letter was written to me on
the eve of starting on this his last and fatal
journey :-
"Red River, June 5, 1840.
"MY DEAREST ALEXANDER,
"I AM just on the move for England, via the
United States; a journey which will, I think,
be beneficial to me, as my stomach has been
out of order, and my spirits low, for a great part
of the spring.
"The light canoe arrived on the 2nd, with
Mr. Allan Macdonell; but most of the letters
went on to Norway House.
"I, however, received one
received one from Governor
THOMAS SIMPSON.
351
Simpson, written by his Lady, inviting me home.
God willing, I shall be out again with him next
spring.
"I cannot go into detail regarding friends;
it would be a work of supererogation, as you will,
no doubt, have volumes from them.
"Our young Queen, you will learn, is mated
with her cousin Albert of Cobourg, and the
Melbourne ministry is still in power. There
are rumours of war with the United States;
if true, I may perhaps figure as a détenu.
·
"Three Wesleyan missionaries have come in
for Lac la Pluie and the Saskatchewan; and
furs have fallen 15 to 20 per cent. in price.
Ominous signs these, saying plainly, Make hay
while the sun shines.' My expenses on this visit
will be heavy, and my funds are still light. Go-
vernment, I fear, will give nothing. However,
I shall see.
"To-morrow morning I take my departure,
with two companions well mounted and armed,
as we expect to fall in with the Sioux, and war
is said to be raging in the plains; so that I hope
to see something of prairie life.
66
Farewell, my dearest brother, and while
breath remains believe me ever,
"Your most affectionate brother,
"THOMAS SIMPSON."
352
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
In the spring of 1840 I arrived at the Colum-
bia River from a visit of observation and inquiry,
which I was instructed to make to the Sand-
wich Islands. On representing my views in re-
gard to a business to be carried on at those
islands to Mr. Macloughlin, the superintendent
of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs on the
Pacific, he expressed a strong desire that I should
at once proceed to England across America, in
order to personally explain my plans to the Di-
rectors of the Company; but, as my instructions
extended to an inquiry into business on the Cali-
fornian coast, I urged upon Mr. Macloughlin
the expediency of my visiting that country pre-
vious to setting out for England. He with some
reluctance acceded to this.
How little can we poor mortals judge what
is best! Had I embraced Mr. Macloughlin's
proposal, I should have joined my brother at Red
River, have been his companion on the home-
ward journey, and thus, in all human probability,
prevented the sad catastrophe which followed;
into the details of which it is my duty now to
enter a duty which, however painful, I must
not shrink from.
I would premise that the first intelligence of
my brother's death reached me through a New
York paper at the Sandwich Islands in January,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
353
1841. The narrative was headed by the appall-
ing title of "Murder and Suicide!" Need I
say that such a fearful, unexpected blow, commu-
nicated in such a manner, completely paralyzed
me? I at once took passage for England; but
after my arrival-indeed, until a very late period
-I was quite unable to enter into a minute and
careful examination of the evidence given by
those who participated in the event. My mind
reposed in trembling hope" that the treachery
of his half-breed companions had led to the ca-
tastrophe.
66
In this state of feeling, I penned the following
remarks, which form part of the brief memoir
with which I prefaced my brother's narrative of
the expedition:
"The long-treasured animosity, (of his half-
breed companions,) was likely to have shewn itself
in threats and insults, if not in actual attack;
and hence it is the opinion of many intelligent
men who have examined the circumstances, and
are acquainted with the character of the half-
cast natives, resulted the events which cut short
my brother's career. If the other supposition
should be true, (and there is nothing, save the
contradictory statements of his attendants to sup-
port it,) if indeed, it pleased Providence to darken
the spirit which had passed undaunted through
A A
354
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
so many trials-we cannot but acknowledge that
the decrees of God are inscrutable to mortals,
and join in those beautiful lines of Cowper:
'Man is a harp whose chords elude the sight,
Each yielding harmony disposed aright—
The chords reversed, (a task which if He please,
God, in a moment, executes with ease,)
Ten thousand thousand strings at once go loose,
Lost, till He tune them, all their power and use.""
A close scrutiny of the statements made by
one of the survivors of my brother's party, (from
the other no deposition seems to have been
taken,) and by two of those who afterwards
joined them, has changed this "trembling hope"
into a certain conviction, that my brother fell
a victim, either to the malice and cupidity of
his companions, or to a sudden and unpreme-
ditated quarrel.
I give, first, the Deposition of James Bruce,
one of his travelling companions.
"Clayton County, Territory of Iowa.
"Be it known, that on the 13th day of July,
1840, personally appeared before Henry H. Sib-
ley, a Justice of the Peace in and for said county,
duly commissioned and sworn, James Bruce of
the Red River Colony, Prince Rupert's Land,
who, being duly sworn upon the Holy Evange-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
355
lists of Almighty God, touching his knowledge
of the events connected with the death of Tho-
mas Simpson, Antoine Legros, and John Bird,
deposeth and saith,
"That Deponent left said Red River Colony, in
company with several individuals; and that, on
the ninth day thereafter, said Deponent, with
four others, to wit, said Thomas Simpson, An-
toine Legros, senior, and John Bird, as also
the son of said Legros, Antoine Legros, junior,
left the main camp, with a view of travelling
with greater expedition than said main body on
their way to St. Peter's. That some days after,
having thus separated from said main body, said
Thomas Simpson complained of being unwell, and
expressed a wish to return. On the morning of
the 14th of June he again insisted upon return-
ing to said Red River Colony, and offered a con-
siderable sum of money to each of the others
composing the party, if they would return with
him, (said Simpson,) to said Colony. Said Simp-
son appeared very restless and uneasy, and De-
ponent heard said Simpson express a conviction
that he would never recover from his illness.
Said Simpson complained of no particular ail-
ment, merely stating that he was not well; and
when told that he would meet with a physician
at "Lac qui parle," said Simpson said, in reply,
▲ A 2
356
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
that a physician could do him no good, and that
he did not require one. In consequence of the
desire expressed by said Simpson to return, on
the 14th of June aforesaid, Deponent, with the
rest of the party, turned back to join the main
camp; and said Simpson was assured, that upon
their rejoining said main body, should he, said
Simpson still insist upon going back to said
Red River Colony, fresh horses should be fur-
nished, and he, said Simpson, be accompanied
back to said Colony. On the evening of the
said 14th of June Deponent, with his party, en-
camped about an hour and a half after sun down
within a mile of Turtle River; said Simpson
was asked if he would have the tent pitched,
to which he replied that it was just as the others
pleased. While Deponent was engaged with John
Bird and Antoine Legros, junior, aforesaid, in
raising the tent, Deponent, having his back to-
wards said Simpson, heard the report of a gun;
and, on turning round, perceived that said Simp-
son had shot said Bird through the body. The
said Bird groaned and fell dead. Deponent then
saw said Simpson turn and shoot said Antoine
Legros, senior, with the other barrel of his
double-barrelled gun. Said Legros, senior, did
not fall immediately, but leaned upon a cart
-he fell about two minutes afterwards. Im-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
357
mediately upon the report of the second bar-
rel of said Simpson's gun, Deponent and said
Legros, junior, fled a short distance from the cart,
when said Simpson called out to Deponent, and
asked him, if he, (said Deponent,) was aware of
any intention to kill him, (Simpson,) to which
Deponent replied, that he had never heard of
such intention on the part of any one. Said
Simpson then told this Deponent that his life
was perfectly safe; and he further told this De-
ponent that he had shot Bird and Legros be-
cause they had intended to murder him, (Simp-
son,) on that night for his papers; and further,
said Simpson told this Deponent that the laws
of England would clear him, (Simpson,) from all
blame in the matter. Said Legros, senior, who
was still alive, then asked said Simpson to al-
low his (Legros') son to go away unharmed, to
which said Simpson consented. Said Simpson
then offered this Deponent five hundred pounds
to take him, said Simpson, back to the Red
River Colony, and keep the affair secret. Said
Simpson then asked this Deponent if he would
know the road back to Red River, to which this
Deponent replied 'Yes.' Said Simpson then
told this Deponent to harness the horses. This
Deponent remained a considerable time stand-
ing in the same place; and Legros, senior, afore-
358
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
said, called his son to him, bidding him kiss
him for the last time. The said Simpson then
asked said Legros, senior, whether it was true
that he, said Legros and the said Bird intended
to kill him (Simpson), to which Legros an-
swered 'No.' Said Simpson remained with his
gun in his hand, while Deponent and Legros,
junior, went to where the horses had been placed.
This Deponent, and said Legros, junior, then
each mounted a horse, and made in the direc-
tion of the said main camp. Said main camp
might be about two hours' ride from the spot
where said Simpson, Legros, and Bird had been
left; but said Deponent and said Legros, losing
the track, did not reach said main camp until
the following morning. Immediately after the
arrival at said main camp of this Deponent,
with said Legros, junior, this Deponent in com-
pany with five others, viz. Joseph Gaubin, James
Flett, Harry Sinclair, Robert Logan, and Michel
Richotte, returned to the place where said Simp-
son had been left. Upon approaching, said
Simpson was called out to by name by some of
this Deponent's party, but no reply was heard.
This Deponent saw said Simpson lying in bed
on the opposite side of the cart from where
this Deponent was. The report of a gun was
forth with heard, and the whistling of a ball in the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
359
air. A remark was made by one of Deponent's
party, that said Simpson must have shot him-
self. This Deponent, with his party, then made
a circle around the cart aforesaid, to ascertain
whether he, (Simpson,) could be seen to move.
Nothing was seen, however, but a dog lying be-
neath the cart. Said Deponent, with his party
aforesaid, continued to call upon Simpson by
name; and receiving no reply, they fired at the
said dog, and drove him away. Said Deponent,
with his said party, then discharged their guns
at the top of the cart, with the intention of
alarming said Simpson if still alive. After the
lapse of some time, this Deponent asked one of the
party to accompany him, this Deponent, to the
cart, this Deponent stating at the same time,
he was under the impression that said Simpson
had shot himself. Upon arriving near the said
cart, said Simpson was found by said Deponent
to have shot himself through the head. Said
Simpson was quite dead, as were also said Le-
gros, senior, and Bird. The bodies of said Simp-
son, Legros, senior, and Bird, were interred in
the same grave; the bodies of the two latter
were found covered when this Deponent reached
the spot where they had been left. A trunk and
carpet-bag with a double-barreled gun belong-
ing to said Simpson, were brought on to Lac
360
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
qui parle, and there left in charge of Doctor
Williamson of that place. Said Deponent fur-
ther saith, that at no time had said Simpson
manifested symptoms of insanity; but that said
Simpson acted through the whole affair like a
man in the possession of his senses.
this Deponent saith not.
And further
his
"James Bruce,
mark."
"Sworn to, and subscribed before me,
at St. Peter's, this 13th day of
July, 1840.
(C
Henry H. Sibley,
“Justice of the Peace, Clayton County, Iowa."
STATEMENT OF ROBERT LOGAN, JUNIOR,
ON OATH.
"I, Robert Logan, joined the party going to
the United States at the Assiniboine River,
above the Forks, on the 2nd day of June 1840.
On the 7th of the said month Mr. Thomas
Simpson, accompanied by Mr. John Bird and
Antoine Legros, overtook our party at the
Grande Point, some fifteen or twenty miles
north of Pembuia. Mr. Simpson and his party
kept with our party two days and a half; but
on the 10th Mr. Simpson, Mr. John Bird, An-
toine Legros, James Bruce, and Legros' son,
in all five persons, left our party and proceeded
THOMAS SIMPSON.
361
a-head, with the intention of reaching St. Peter's
as quick as possible. Our party proceeded also.
Early in the morning of the 15th instant, about
sun-rise, just as we had left our encampment,
Pierish Boutineau, our guide, discovered two
riders coming after our party at full speed-he
immediately called out "Indians, Indians;" the
whole party stopped and proposed conferring, in
order to put ourselves in a position for defence,
thinking it was an enemy. All this time the
riders were approaching us, and had come so
near that our guide called out that it was not
Indians, and immediately recognised their horses.
The riders now joined our party, and proved
to be James Bruce and Legros' son, the one
riding the horse belonging to Mr. Simpson, the
other Mr. Bird's horse. James Bruce imme-
diately stated, that Mr. Thomas Simpson had
killed Mr. John Bird and Antoine Legros, with
his double-barreled gun, adding, that after leaving
our party they had proceeded as far as the river
Chienne, then turned back to Turtle river again.
On reaching the latter river the party had supper,
and, turning round again, went about two miles
back on the route to river Chienne; there the
party put up for the night, at a late hour,
near to a small creek, and that whilst in the
act of putting up the tent Mr. Simpson shot
362
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
John Bird; then, turning round, shot Legros.
As soon as the shot went off James Bruce and
young Legros ran off some distance, and in a
short time mounted each a horse, and made for
our party, coming up with us as already stated
at sun-rise, the distance being as near as they
could guess fifteen to twenty miles.
"After James Bruce had made the above
statement, six of the party, viz., Henry Sinclair,
James Flett, James Bruce, Michel Richotte,
Gaubin, and myself, volunteered to go back
to Mr. Simpson's encampment; and, after riding
about three hours, we came in sight of the fatal
spot. When about two hundred yards from the
place we made a halt, and called out, Mr. Simp-
son! Mr. Simpson! several times, but no answer;
but we distinctly saw Mr. Bird's dog sitting
near the cart by the bodies. We then moved.
round to another position, keeping about the
same distance off; when all at once we heard the
report of a gun in the direction of the dog
and cart, saw the smoke, and heard the ball whist-
ling over our heads: we then all halted, and felt
confused, supposing that Mr. Simpson had fired
at us. After a short consultation we moved on
to another place, near the small creek, keeping
off about the same distance. We then halted;
tied our horses, and proposed firing in the air, or
THOMAS SIMPSON.
363
over the camp, in the direction of the dog and
cart. Gaubin fired first; Michel Richotte the
second shot, and by it the dog was wounded; the
dog immediately went off on three legs; then all
the party fired-we fired all twice, but saw
nothing more. Richotte then mounted his horse,
and rode swiftly by the camp, to see if he could
observe Mr. Simpson some others followed.
After passing the spot, we all joined again,
when Richotte said he saw Mr. Simpson lying
as if dead. Henry Sinclair, James Bruce, and
myself, then approached the spot; and on seeing
all dead, we called out to the others, and they
joined us. The body of John Bird was covered
with the tent, and the tent-poles keeping it
down. Legros' body was covered with a blanket,
and a pillow under his head. Mr. Simpson's
body was lying stretched out, with one leg across
the other, and the butt end of his double barreled
gun between his legs, the right hand, with the glove
off, directed to the trigger, the left hand, with the
glove on, holding the gun, near the muzzle, on
his breast. All the head above the nose was
blown off, and we found a white night-cap lying
some ten or fifteen yards off from the body,
with a hole in it, as if made by a gun-shot,
and much singed by fire, and some of his hair
sticking in it. The five guns belonging to the
364
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
party were at the spot, also four pistols. We
turned the body, and found it warm, but no
signs of life; we then got a hole dug, cut the
tent into three pieces, wrapt the bodies up, and
bound them altogether; we then gathered up the
property, and set off back again for the camp,
where we arrived the same day after sun set.
"This is the truth, and nothing but the truth,
as far as I can recollect, so help me God!
"ROBERT LOGAN.”
"Sworn at Red River, before me, this
14th day of October, 1840.
Signed,
"A. Ross, J. P."
James Flett being duly sworn, declared as fol-
lows:-
"On the morning of the 15th of June, when
James Bruce and Legros' son brought the intel-
ligence of the death of Mr. John Bird and An-
toine Legros, I accompanied James Bruce, Henry
Sinclair, Robert Logan, Gaubin, and Michel Ri-
chotte to the spot, which we approached cau-
tiously; and when within two hundred yards
we hallooed, and called him by name, and imme-
diately we heard a shot, and I distinctly heard
the hissing of a ball, and Gaubin told me he
noticed the same. We then made a turn round
the height behind him, and separated ourselves
and took the horses, which were standing at
THOMAS SIMPSON.
365
some distance, supposing he would show himself.
We approached towards his left; and when
within about two hundred yards, we fired in the
direction of the cart. Still, not seeing him,
Michel Richotte galloped on horseback close
behind the spot, but still could not see him.
We then approached still nearer by a hollow,
but still could not see him. Then James Bruce
and Henry Sinclair crawled along the creek,
and to within twenty yards, when they called
out he was dead.
"We then approached, and saw him lying with
his face downwards, near, but not on, a blanket,
which was spread alongside of the cart. I then
began to dig the grave. John Bird was lying
on his back, with his arms extended. The tent
was thrown over him. I saw a little blood coming
out of his mouth and nose. I was told a mark
of a wound was to be seen in his clothes, but
did not see it myself. Saw Simpson's face-
the part about the eyes was black. From the
root of the nose to the top of the head was
blown off. A little blood, but not much, was
lying about him; a little had trickled down his
cheek, and it was dry. I did not feel his body-
do not know if it was warm. I saw smoke when
I heard the report. I do not know how many
shots were fired, as we did not all fire together.
366
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Do not believe any hit him. Was told that
Legros had vomited his supper, and that he was
covered with a blanket, with a pillow under his
head. Saw the pillow, which was said to be
used for the purpose. Saw his (Simpson's) cap,
but not the place where it was found; believe
it was some distance. Simpson's eyes were not
blown off-his eye-socket was not off; forget
if his eye-brows were blown off: distinctly saw
his brains. Was told one of his hands was grasp-
ing the barrel of his gun; and the other, that is,
his right hand, downwards towards the trigger:
but this I did not see at least, do not remember
if I did. Bird and Legros were lying within
about eight paces of each other, and Simpson
was lying near them. Gaubin was dressing the
bodies while I was digging the grave. Believe it
was about half an hour from the time we heard
the report of the gun till we found out he was
dead. When the report was heard, Bruce called
out,' He is firing at us!' I said, 'I think he has
fired at himself."
"The above is a correct statement of the
facts to which I have sworn.
"JAMES FLETT."
"Sworn before me, this 11th day of Octo-
ber, 1840.
"John Bunn, Magistrate."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
367
I shall proceed to animadvert on these state-
ments, and on the conduct of the parties from
whom they proceeded.
The first point to which I shall direct attention
is, the extraordinary fact that none of the party
concerned in the affair returned to. Red River
Settlement to give immediate information of it.
They were distant but three, or at most four,
days' journey from Fort Garry; and it is impos-
sible to suppose that, had they been conscious
of innocence, they would not at once have re-
turned to give information, instead of continuing
their journey to St. Peter's.
I have already alluded to my brother's minute
attention to details. In no particular was he
more exact than in keeping an accurate record
in his journal of each day's proceedings; a full
narrative of the expeditions to and on the coast
could have been given to the world by merely
transcribing from his note books. Is it likely
that he discontinued his diary when entering
on new and most interesting ground? But no
diary was delivered with his papers.
The con-
clusion is, that it was destroyed or kept back by his
companions.
But one document remained unobserved by
them, which affords conclusive evidence of the
falsehood of some of the statements contained in
368
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
these affidavits. This is a pocket-map which
was delivered among his papers at Lac qui parle,
and is now in my possession.
The preliminary facts stated are,
That my brother, accompanied by John Bird
and Antoine Legros, started from Fort Garry on
the 6th of June.
That on the following day they overtook a
larger party of colonists travelling to St. Peter's.
That, they accompanied this party for two
days and a half.
That, tired of its slow progress, my brother,
accompanied by John Bird, Antoine Legros, his
son, and James Bruce, quitted it, (on the forenoon
of the 9th,) with the view of travelling quicker.
All this is perfectly clear, and perfectly corro-
borated by the map. On this map the route
and camping places up to the 12th are as dis-
tinctly marked as those on his discovery-charts.
But of their future proceedings they give a very
vague account, and that account, vague as it is, is
contradicted by the map in an essential particular.
The furthest point reached is acknowledged
to be Chienne River; and the map proves that
this point was attained on the night of the 12th.
The marches of the two days being respectively
forty-five and fifty-five miles.
Bruce asserts that the return was commenced
THOMAS SIMPSON.
369
on the morning of the 14th; and that the same
night the catastrophe took place within two miles
of Turtle River. Now, the distance by the track
from Chienne to Turtle River is no less than
ninety-five miles. It was impossible that this could
have been performed in one day. It must have
occupied two days, the 13th and 14th, from the
evidence afforded by the chart, that the 12th
was the date of encampment at Chienne River.
The affidavit of Bruce distinctly states that the
14th only was occupied in a retrograde-march.
What could have caused my brother to com-
mence this retrograde movement?
Of insanity he had exhibited not the slightest
symptom while at Red River, nor yet while
accompanying the larger party; indeed, Bruce
expressly declares that "at no time had he mani-
fested symptoms of insanity, but acted through
the whole affair like a man in the possession of
his senses."
Would an insane man who had begun a
massacre stop midway, and talk coolly with the
survivors and spectators? Incredible! Would
the powerful volition, which ever accompanies
insanity, permit his remaining for a whole night
beside the corpses in the encampment? would
it not have rather driven him to follow the
example of the others-take horse and away?
BB
370.
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
There is, then, the strongest evidence against
his insanity. But a sane man of course he could
not have been, if the statements made in these
depositions are true.
But they manifestly are untrue. The whole
account is a tale devised-but not cunningly.
"What," I again ask, "could have caused my
brother to commence this retrograde march ?"
The same cause that, I believe, led to his death-
the treachery of his half-breed companions.
I have alluded to the evil passions of this race,
and to the hostility which they had previously
exhibited towards my brother. One of the most
dangerous of this class was John Bird; the others
I believe to have been mere puppets in his
hands. Bird was the son of an old officer of the
Company. He had received some education
and instruction from his father; but was nourished
and brought up in all the fierce excitement of a
prairie life.
The secret of the north-west passage, which
Bird and his fellows conceived to be exclusively
contained in the papers carried by my brother,
was one which he believed to be worth a large
In the statement of Bruce we have an
sum.
allusion to the papers. It never could have
been supposed by my brother, had not the sus-
picion been raised in his mind by something
THOMAS SIMPSON.
371
dropped by his companions, that the possession
of his papers would be an object sufficient to
induce his murder. He, of course, knew well
that the possession of his papers could not be
of the slightest value to his companions. How
then can we account for his asking Legros "if it
was not intended to murder him for his papers?"
Clearly the suggestion must, originally, have come
through themselves.
I believe that class animosity, joined to a
desire of enriching himself, as he thought he
should do, by possessing himself of the secret of
the north-west passage, led Bird to plan my bro-
ther's murder.
That my brother discovered the plot at River
Chienne, and that he feigned sickness, as a pre-
tence for turning back from thence.
There is positive evidence in the map, that
two days, the 13th and 14th, were occupied in
this retrograde movement,-days and nights passed
in mutual watchings and suspicions; and, finally,
that in the night of the 14th Bird and Legros
were shot by my brother in self-defence; his own
life being either sacrificed at the same time, or
desperate wounds inflicted upon him.
The story of a report being heard as the party
approached in the morning-of a ball whistling
over their heads-and their subsequent firing at
B B 2
372
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
the encampment, are sheer inventions-they are
evidently inconsistent and improbable, and the
statements made by Logan and Flett, in regard
to the position of his body, are directly contra-
dictory. They found him either dead, or wound-
ed, and dispatched him.
Such is my belief of the true circumstances of
this sad tragedy, arrived at after a very minute
examination of all the details given, a belief
which I think none of my readers will consider
ill-founded.
His remains, after lying for some months at
the scene of death were removed to Red River
colony, and now repose in its churchyard.
He perished a fortnight before he had com-
pleted his thirty-second year.
My brother's stature was rather under the
middle size, his height being only five feet five
and a half inches, but he was broad-shouldered,
and strongly limbed-with, however, much sym-
metry of figure.
His face was round and full, and its expression
was open and engaging; brown hair clustered
in thick curls over a brow of massive breadth
*After his arduous labours in Arctic discovery, "grey
did somewhat mingle with his brown." This was the only
alteration in his appearance, caused by three years' physical
fatigues and mental anxieties, such as have seldom if ever
been surpassed.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
373
The eyes were small, and had a merry twinkle,
giving an air of laughing cheerfulness to the
upper part of his countenance; while, in striking
contrast, the expression of the mouth was that
of stern decision.
Of his character I need say little. It may
well be judged by his actions, and by the ex-
tracts which I have given from his confidential
correspondence. He was brave, judicious, en-
thusiastic, and persevering; while his love and
affection to his relatives were indeed "such as
the world, as it goes, knows little of."
He won for himself, under very trying and
discouraging circumstances, the highest distinc-
tion that could be achieved in the field of Arctic
discovery. After achieving it he unhappily and
prematurely perished.
"Ex pede Herculem!" He possessed qualities,
which, had his lot been cast in a more genial
sphere of action, would have raised him to useful
eminence, which, in any rank of life, would have
made him beloved and respected.
374
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
Λ
CHAPTER XIX.
The Rewards of Service.-The Author's Correspondence with
Sir Robert Peel, Bart.-Sir John Barrow, Bart.-The Hud-
son's Bay Company.-Sir George Simpson.
As already stated, the intelligence of my bro-
ther's death reached me at the Sandwich Islands
in January 1841: I at once took shipping and
landed in England in the month of May.
His narrative of the expedition, which I was
well aware he had carefully prepared before leav-
ing Fort Simpson, I found was not yet received
from the American officer, at "Lac qui parle,"
into whose hands it had been delivered by the
survivors of the party, Regarding this narrative
I felt much anxiety, as its publication was now
the only further evidence that could be given of
my brother's merits and services. But I found
to my surprise that an arrangement had been
made for its temporary suppression, and ultimate
embodiment in a work proposed to be compiled
by another at some future time. *
*This contemplated arrangement was intimated in a letter
THOMAS SIMPSON.
375
To this unjust purpose, I at once objected;
and I succeeded in obtaining a promise that, on
its arrival in England, it should be published in
my brother's own name. This arrival was unne-
cessarily delayed for several months. It came
into the hands of Sir George Simpson in May,
but did not reach England till late in October ;
and before that time I was on my return to
Polynesia.
At my earnest request Colonel Sabine under-
took a revision of the manuscript; his opinion of
it is expressed in the following letter:
"DEAR SIR,
"Woolwich, July 18th, 1843.
"I AM very glad that you have returned to
England in time to be present when your bro-
ther's narrative is published. In your absence I
undertook to examine the manuscript, and make
any alterations which might appear to me to be
required. On perusal, I found the work in a
state of such complete preparation, that the alte-
rations which I saw any occasion to make were
from Sir George Simpson to Sir J. Henry Pelly of 25th Feb.
1841, in the following terms :-" His" (my brother's) “Jour-
nals or Narrative I should, if you have no objection, wish to be
reserved for myself, to be embodied in a work which, if I live
to return and can command a little leisure time, I have it in
contemplation to publish."
376
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
very few indeed, and these chiefly of a verbal
nature. Not having seen the proof sheets, I am
not aware whether any further changes have been
made since the manuscript passed out of my
hands some months ago: but it impressed me
with an additionally high respect for your bro-
ther's memory, that he should have drawn up the
narrative of the expedition on the spot, in such
a complete manner that it might quite well have
been printed verbatim.
"Believe me, dear Sir,
"Sincerely yours,
"Alexander Simpson, Esq."
"EDWARD SABINE."
Previous to leaving England I drew up a me-
moir of my brother. Facts were then fresh in
my memory; his extended correspondence with
me was before me; I quoted largely from it, and
gave his last two letters (pages 345 and 350)
entire. I unluckily retained no copy of this
memoir; and in my absence it was mis-laid, or
suppressed.
On my return to England late in June 1843,
I found that the narrative was on the eve of
publication, without any prefatory memoir. I
had left all my correspondence abroad; was en-
gaged in daily communication on the affairs of
THOMAS SIMPSON.
377
Polynesia, with Her Majesty's Government, and
reluctantly contented myself with prefacing the
narrative, by "the interesting but meagre sketch
of my brother's biography," already adverted to.
In consideration of the services of the Arctic
Expedition, Her Majesty's Government bestowed
on the Chairman of the Court of Directors of
the Hudson's Bay Company, (Mr. J. H. Pelly)
the dignity of a Baronet, while on Mr. George
Simpson, the local Govenor, (to whom the plan-
ning of the expedition was ascribed,) a Knight-
hood was conferred. To each of the leaders of
the expedition, Mr. Peter W. Dease and my
brother, an annual pension of One hundred
pounds was apportioned: in my brother's case,
from his early death, this was entirely nugatory.
After long resisting the advices of my friends
to lay my claims, as my brother's heir, before
Her Majesty's Government, from a feeling that
a grant to be valued should be spontaneous—I
consented to bring them forward. The result
will be gleaned from the following correspond-
ence.
A succeeding correspondence will give an idea
of the justice of the Body which my brother so
honorably and so painfully served.
378
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
CORRESPONDENCE BETWEEN SIR ROBERT PEEL, AND
THE AUTHOR.
"To the Right Honourable Sir Robert Peel, Bart.,
First Lord of the Treasury.
(< THE MEMORIAL OF ALEXANDER SIMPSON :
"SHOWETH,
"That your Memorialist is the only brother of
the late Thomas Simpson, who, in conjunction
with Mr. Peter Warren Dease, conducted the
expedition fitted out in the year 1836, by the
Hudson's Bay Company, for exploring the Nor-
thern Coast of America.
"That the said expedition was occupied in that
service for the space of three years, during which
period, exposed to dangers and difficulties of no
ordinary kind, it traced the Arctic Coast of Ame-
rica, from the mouth of the Mackenzie River
to Point Barrow, and from the mouth of the
Coppermine River to the Gulf of Boothia; thus
solving the grand problem which had engaged
the attention of the world for three centuries-
that there exists a passage between the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans.
"That your Memorialist refers to a letter ad-
dressed, on the 22nd April, 1840, by Sir J. Henry
}
THOMAS SIMPSON.
379
Pelly, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company,
to Lord John Russell, then Colonial Secretary,
and to the Narrative of the Expedition recently
published, for proof of the fact, that it was by
his brother's exertions that this result-so inter-
esting to science, and so honourable to Great
Britain-was attained.
"That your Memorialist's brother volunteered
to conduct another expedition to survey the North-
eastern Angle of America, from Back's Fish
River, on the Arctic Coast, to Wager River, on
the Coast of Hudson's Bay: but that his untimely
death prevented his entering on that service.
"That Her Majesty's Government announced
in the year 1840, (the year in which his death
took place,) its intention of granting to the said
Thomas Simpson a pension of one hundred
pounds sterling per annum.
"That your Memorialist ventures to hope that
the services rendered to geographical science by
his said brother will appear to you to entitle his
relatives to some provision from the State.
"That the said Thomas Simpson, conceiving
that he had established a claim upon the State
by his services in proving the existence of a
North-west passage-did, by his last will, ex-
pressly bequeath such claim to your Memorialist.
"Wherefore your Memorialist prays, that you
380
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
will, considering these circumstances, advise Her
Majesty to bestow on your Memorialist any re-
ward which his said brother may have merited
from the State by his arduous and successful
labours.
"ALEXADER SIMPSON."
"15, Arundel Street, Strand, August 1843."
66
" SIR,
"Whitehall, 30th August, 1843.
"I AM desired by Sir Robert Peel to acknow-
ledge the receipt of the Memorial which you
have addressed to him; and to express his regret
that it is not in his power to appropriate to your
use any portion of the very limited fund placed
by Parliament under the control of the Crown,
for the reward of eminent public service."
"I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
"Alex. Simpson, Esq."
“SIR,
"W. H. STEVENSON "
"London, September 5th, 1843.
"I HAVE the honour to acknowledge the letter
of Mr. W. H. Stevenson, in which he is directed
by you, in reply to my Memorial having reference
to the services of my brother, to express your
regret that it is not in your power to appropriate
to my use any portion of the very limited fund
6
THOMAS SIMPSON.
381
placed by Parliament under the control of the
Crown for the reward of eminent public service.'
"In the case of my brother it will hardly be
doubted that eminent public service was render-
ed and his early death-the consequence of
that service-would not, I feel well assured, be
considered by the Queen of England and by the
English nation, as cancelling all claims on their
gratitude and generosity.
"The survey of the Arctic coast of America,
with the view of thereby ascertaining the exis-
tence of a passage between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, was the sole object of two expe-
ditions fitted out by the British Government, and
became the object of an expedition, supported
principally by the British public. Although nei-
ther succeeded in their object, yet the country
was convinced that every exertion had been made
by the distinguished officers who commanded the
expeditions, and saw with pleasure that promo-
tion, and employments and titles, were conferred
upon them.
This object was fully attained
through my brother's exertions; and the claims
which he thereby established on his country his
death did not abrogate. I have the honor to be,
Sir, Your most obedient humble servant,
"ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
"The Right Hon. Sir Robert Peel."
382
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
CORRESPONDECE BETWEEN THE AUTHOR AND
"SIR,
SIR JOHN BARROW, BART.
"28, Devonshire Street, Portland Place,
"January 30th, 1844.
'I HAVE perused with much delight, the article
in the last Quarterly Review, on the subject of
the services towards Arctic Discovery of my late
brother; an article which bears intrinsic evi-
dence of coming from your pen.
"The high estimate which you have given to the
world of the interest of the discoveries effected
by my brother's exertions, is, it appears to me, a
strong confirmation of the opinion entertained
by myself and those whom I have consulted, that
the neglect of the British Government in not re-
warding my brother's services in the only way in
its power, through his surviving relations, arises
from the fact, that the claims established by my
brother have not been clearly brought under the
consideration of the heads of Her Majesty's Go-
vernment.
Permit me to entreat the exercise of your
influence on this subject. I should be ashamed
to ask this influence, were I actuated by mere
mercenary motives: by such I am not swayed:
THOMAS SIMPSON.
383
but I and my relatives feel that services, such as
those rendered by my brother, are fitting to re-
ceive the State's reward: such they have never
received; and from this neglect we deem that
our relative's memory receives but small justice.
The British nation has never been slow to reward
distinguished merit and we ask for some testi-
mony of our country's gratitude; not for its own
sake, but as a record and acknowledgment.
You have always taken a prominent part in
promoting Arctic Discovery and I feel that
from you would come, with propriety, a recom-
mendation for the reward of the services which
you have described as being most effectual to-
wards that object.
"I abstained for several years after my brother's
death, from any application to Government on
this subject deeming that, until the publication
of his own Narrative' his arduous exertions
could hardly be appreciated.
6
"It may, possibly, have appeared to Her Majes-
ty's Government, that the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany would have deemed it a duty to mark its
respect for the memory of their distinguished offi-
cer by a provision for his relatives; but such has
not been the case. I have the honour, &c.
“ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
"Sir John Barrow, Bart."
384
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"DEAR SIR,
Admiralty, Feb. 2nd, 1844.
"You are not singular in ascribing the article in
the Quarterly Review, concerning your late un-
fortunate brother's discoveries to me but I have
no claim to the compliment you are pleased to
pay me: I did not write it; nor do I know who is
the author, but I most cordially agree in all that
the writer has stated, both as to the merits of
your brother, and the value of his discovery.
"With respect to any remuneration or public
testimonial, on the part of Government, it appears
to me that, as the expedition was set forth by the
Hudson's Bay Company, and carried into execu-
tion by a servant of that Company, they are un-
questionably the party who should remunerate,
or, at least, who should originate the proposal to
the First Minister of the Crown: and they might
well do it on public grounds; the question has
been decided, which after very great expense was
left undecided by the expeditions sent out by the
Government.
"I am going to the Treasury in a few days, and
will put your letter into Sir George Clerk's
hands but I anticipate his answer, that their
Lordships will not entertain any expense for a
service that was not done under any department
of the Government.
THOMAS SIMPSON.
385
"I mentioned the subject last night to some of
the members of the Royal Society, and it was
hinted that if an application was made to Sir
Robert Peel, by yourself, if the Company decline
to do it, for some public testimonial, a marble
tablet, for instance, erected by Government for
his public services in the wide field of Arctic
Discovery, he might, perhaps, assent to it. He
wrote to me regarding Mr. Weddel's discoveries
in the Southern Hemisphere; and I believe he
settled something on the widow.
"If you should decide to send a memorial to
Sir Robert Peel stating what your brother has
accomplished, you are at full liberty to refer him
to me; and if he does so, which is not improba-
ble, I may be able to impress on him the value I
ascribe to his labours; more, I fear, I have not
the means of doing.
"Believe me very sincerely, and with best
wishes for success,
"Very truly yours,
"JOHN BARROW."
"Alexander Simpson, Esq."
"DEAR SIR,
28, Devonshire Street, Portland Place,
Feb. 3rd, 1844.
"I FEEL very grateful to you for your kind
favour of yesterday.
C C
386
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"In the course of last summer I made an
application to Sir Robert Peel, on the subject of
the services of my brother, my memorial being
forwarded to him through Sir J. Henry Pelly.
The curt and unsatisfactory answer which it re-
ceived, was the cause of the remark in my last
letter to you, that these services had not been
duly weighed by the heads of Her Majesty's
Government.
C6
My answer (which with the memorial, &c. I
have the honour to inclose), is perhaps, wanting
in temper; but I was just at the period somewhat
crossed, by the failure of a measure to accom-
plish which I had made large sacrifices, and devot-
ed much time and labour-the annexation of the
Sandwich Islands to the British Crown; and ex-
cited by news which had just reached me, that
the bigoted population of my native town had, by
threatened violence, caused the removal in my
absence of a marble tablet to my brother's me-
mory, which I had erected in the parish church.*
* The cause of this outrage was the alleged suicide of my
brother. The tablet has since been replaced in the county
buildings of Ross-shire, and bears the following inscription :-
In memory
of
THOMAS SIMPSON,
a native of this county,
who departed this life on the
15th of June, 1840,
THOMAS SIMPSON.
387
"I should be pleased to have your counsel on
the subject, in addition to the assistance which
have so kindly tendered, and remain
you
"Your much obliged and faithful servant,
"Sir John Barrow, Bart."
"ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
"MY DEAR SIR,
Admiralty, Feb. 5th, 1844.
"AFTER what has passed, as you inform me,
the matter appears to be conclusive, so far as Sir
Robert Peel is concerned. It is quite clear that
he does not feel himself authorized to grant any
pecuniary aid to the family of one not having
held any situation in the public service.
"We are in all the departments so bound up
by rules and regulations, established by Orders
in Council, with regard to money matters; and as
Sir Robert states, the allowance granted to the
Queen is quite inadequate to answer the claims
made upon it.
"I much regret his decision with regard to
your brother's case; and I really know not where
a few days before he had completed
his thirty-second year.
Though removed so early he had already attained
the high distinction of being the Discoverer
of the long-sought North-west Passage.
cc 2
388
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
to advise you to apply: it is obvious, however,
that if he was in any ways a servant of the
Hudson's Bay Company - that is the body to
apply to.
“I am, my dear Sir,
66
Very truly yours,
"JOHN BARROW."
"Alexander Simpson, Esq."
CORRESPONDENCE BETWEEN THE AUTHOR AND
THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY.
"HONOURABLE SIRS,
"5, Albany Street, Edinburgh,
"May 20th, 1844.
"I HAVE the honour to acknowledge Mr. Se-
cretary Barclay's letter of the 13th instant, which
as well as that of the 30th ultimo, reached me as
unstamped letters.
"As you state yourselves to be at a loss to
understand, from the vagueness of my expressions,
what it is I require of you,' I have the honour to
state, that, as the natural as well as appointed
heir of my brother, I ask for the fulfilment of the
promises made to him on undertaking Arctic
Discovery, and this would consist in apportioning
to his estate-
THOMAS SIMPSON.
389
"The share of profit of a Chief Trader from
the year 1837 to 1840, and
"The share of profit of a Chief Factor, com-
mencing with 1840; deducting therefrom his
annual salary of £100, from 1837 to 1840-
the sum of four hundred pounds which he
received from you, and his Chief Trader's share
from 1840.
"It appears clear from my brother's papers in
my possession,* and now in course of preparation
for the press,
"That he was applied to by Governor Simpson
to draw out the plan for Arctic Discovery;
"That the plan acted upon was exclusively
his ;
That the command of the expedition was at
first promised him;
"That an ostensible senior officer was appoint-
ed for the professed reason of quieting jealousies
in your territories.
"That the discoveries effected were effected by
my brother alone, the world has already acknow-
ledged.
"Previous to starting on the expedition, your
responsible agent in North America, Governor
Simpson, promised to my brother a Chief Trader-
ship in return for his past services. I claim the
* These papers only reached me in the spring, 1844 !
390
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
fulfilment of that promise, the year after it was
made.
"He promised him a Chief Factorship on
reaching Back's Great Fish River. He reached
it in 1839; and I claim the fulfilment of that
promise from 1840.
"The power to appoint officers to the emolu-
ments of Chief Factors and Chief Traders is, by
the constitution of the Company, solely vested in
you. Sir George Simpson is your avowed confi-
dential agent. Qui agit per alium agit per se.
"That my brother perished, is surely no rea-
son for withholding from his heirs the rewards
which he had won by his past services; particu-
larly when, as is notorious, those services had
much influence in obtaining for you, from the
British Government, the gratuitous renewal of
your grant of trade, and were the sole means of
obtaining for your Home and American Governors
the titles which they bear.
"I have the honour to be,
"Honourable Sirs,
"Your most obedient humble servant,
"ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
"To the Governor, Deputy Governor,
and Committee, of
The Honourable Hudson's Bay Company."
THOMAS SIMPSON.
391
“SIR,
"Hudson's Bay House,
London, May 23rd, 1844.
"YOUR letter dated the 20th instant, setting
forth certain claims against the Hudson's Bay
Company, founded on a promise stated to have
been made to your late brother, by Sir George
Simpson, has been laid before the Governor and
Committee, who have directed me to make the
following reply thereto.
"Sir George Simpson is not the agent of the
Hudson's Bay Company, but a commissioned offi-
cer invested with limited and well-known powers.
Your brother was fully aware that he had no
authority to bestow appointments, and that the
utmost that he could do in promoting any officer
was to recommend him (with the approbation of
a majority of the Council), to the Governor and
Committee.
"Whatever promise, therefore, Sir George
Simpson may have given your brother, must
have been perfectly understood by both parties
to be such as he had power to fulfil, and
as the rules of the service would allow to be
carried into effect; but cannot, by any reason-
able construction, be supposed to imply, that
your brother, who had then done nothing what-
ever to distinguish himself, was to be a dvanced
392
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
instanter over the heads of officers who had
been more than twice as long in the service,
and who had much stronger claims on the
Company.
"For these reasons the Governor and Com-
mittee consider your claims totally inadmissible.
"I have the honour to be
Your obedient servant,
“A. BARCLAY, Secretary."
"Alexander Simpson, Esq."
"5, Albany St., Edinburgh, May 27th, 1844.
“HONOURABLE SIRS,
"IN closing my correspondence with you, I
must take leave to refer to the reasons which you
allege for repudiating' claims, which are at
least morally binding on you.
·
"These are,
"First-That my brother previous to entering
upon Arctic Discovery had no claims upon you.
66
'My brother having passed through a collegiate
education with distinguished credit, consented to
enter your service for particular duties, with par-
ticular prospects held out to him. For a very
paltry pittance he performed those duties for
seven years -- a longer term of probation than he
had been led to anticipate.
“Second-That Sir George Simpson is not the
THOMAS SIMPSON.
393
Agent of the Company; and that my brother
must have perfectly understood that the promises
which I urge were beyond his real power.
"I find in your communications with the Go-
vernment and the Press, that you ascribe to Sir
George Simpson the merit of all the arrange-
ments connected with the expedition for Arctic
Discovery. I find from a series of my brother's
letters that he distinctly understood (and he had
been long cognizant of the working of your ser-
vice), that Sir George Simpson's promises were
valid.
"You add, that Sir George Simpson's recom-
mendations to you required the approbation of a
majority of the Council-a statement which is
diametrically opposed to the constitution of the
Company--as explained by yourselves in your
letter of the 8th of March, 1834 'The only
other alteration determined on is, that the Com-
pany (yourselves) shall have the power of elect-
ing Chief Factors and Chief Traders to fill vacan-
cies in those classes, instead of being confined to
the nomination of the Councils as heretofore.'
"You cannot deny that the promises I urge
were made; or that the services rendered on the
faith of these promises tended greatly to your
pecuniary advantage, and obtained honours for
your acting principals.
394
LIFE AND TRAVELS OF
"To refuse the fulfilment of them is at least
discreditable.
I have the honour to be
"Your most obedient servant,
"ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
"To the Governor, Deputy Governor,
and Committee of
The Honourable Hudson's Bay Company."
(A fulfilment of the promises made would
occasion the payment to me of between two and
three thousand pounds.-A. S.)
LETTER TO SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, GOVERNOR OF
THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S TERRITORIES.
"SIR,
"Dingwall, December 2nd, 1844.
"THE papers of my late brother were for-
warded to me from Hudson's Bay in the autumn
of last year.
66
My brother's well known systematic atten-
tion to detail led me to a certain conviction,
that in his trunks would have been found all
the letters he received during his Arctic resi-
dence. When they reached me a great portion
of these letters-I especially advert to those
from yourself-were wanting.
"The depositories of deceased persons are in all
THOMAS SIMPSON.
395
countries, pretending to law or government, held
sacred from examination, save by authorized per-
sons, and from spoliation by any person. I hesi-
tate not to assert, that the depositories of my
brother were rifled of valuable papers; and I
call upon you who hold rule in the country in
which the violation was, as I believe, committed,
to take cognizance of such an unjustifiable pro-
ceeding.
"The abstractors, though they removed (as no
doubt they were ordered to remove) all such
papers as might afford me legal grounds for
proceeding against the Hudson's Bay Company
for the fulfilment of pledges given to my brother,
fortunately passed unnoticed a small bundle con-
taining original sketches of letters addressed by
my brother to you, previous to and during his
Arctic expedition.
"You know what comments these letters
would bear out: but I shall, at present, con-
fine myself to the pledges which they inform
me you gave him previous to his entering on Arc-
tic discovery.
"I stated to the Directors of the Hudson's
Bay Company the claims grounded on these
pledges thus,-
"Previous to starting on the expedition as your
responsible agent in North America, Governor
396
LIFE AND TRAVELS, ETC.
Simpson, promised to my brother a Chief Trader-
ship in return for his past services. I claim the
fulfilment of that promise the year after it was
made.
·
"He promised him a Chief Factorship on reach-
ing Back's Great Fish River. He reached it in
1839; and I claim the fulfilment of that promise
from 1840.
6
"The power to appoint officers to the emolu-
ments of Chief Factors and Chief Traders is, by
the Constitution of the Company, solely vested in
you. Sir George Simpson is your avowed confi-
dential Agent.
Qui agit per alium agit per se.'
"The claims thus set forth were repudiated'
by the Honourable Directors on the ground
that you had no authority to bestow appoint-
ments' but, Sir, that you made such promises
as induced my brother to believe that such ap-
pointments were to be his immediate reward is
clear and undeniable; and I now call upon you
to come forward and obtain their fulfilment.
'I am, Sir,
"Your very obedient servant,
"ALEXANDER SIMPSON."
No answer has been received to the above.
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
397
POSTSCRIPT ON ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
It will be observed by reference to my bro-
ther's letters, and to his last will, that he
considered that, through his discoveries, the
question of the existence of a north-west passage
had been finally solved in the affirmative. It will
also have been seen that the opinions of the
English press were to the same effect: in fact,
that thereon he founded his claim.
Was this claim unfounded?-Can any sub-
sequent explorations deprive him of the merit
of connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by
an open sea-communication ?
To this point I have already adverted; and
I should not have returned to the subject, had I
not observed, while preparing the foregoing pages
for the press, that it is in contemplation by the
British Government to send out another mari-
time expedition-(how many have already failed!)
-for the discovery of a North Polar passage
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
The connexion by my brother of the dis-
covery on the Polar coasts of Beechey, Franklin,
and Back, forming a continuous line of Arctic
American Sea-board of sixty-two degrees of
longitude, is, of course, perfectly incontrovert-
ible. The only possible point on which a doubt
398
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
can be hung as to his having completed the june-
tion of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, is, whe-
ther he reached the same sea which Sir John
Ross sailed down in the Victory, passing through
Barrow's Straits, and Prince Regent's Inlet; and
which Parry saw before him from the western ex-
tremity of the Straits of the Fury and Hecla.'
6
His own opinion that he had reached this
gulf is thus expressed :-" We could therefore
hardly doubt being now arrived at that large
gulf uniformly described by the Esquimaux as
containing many islands, and with many inden-
tations running down to the southward, till it
approaches within forty miles of Repulse and
Wager Bays."
The correctness of this opinion has not been
questioned by those best acquainted with the
subject, until a very recent period, when a con-
jecture has been hazarded, that North Somerset
is a part of the main continent of America.' *
6
This conjecture implies the existence of an
isthmus connecting Boothia Felix with the con-
tinent. As I have already pointed out such
an isthmus was asserted by Sir John Ross to
exist. Back's voyage went far to disprove this
assertion, and an inspection of the chart, as now
* Dr. King in letters on Arctic Discovery, addressed to Sir
J. Barrow.
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
399
all but filled up by my brother's discoveries, will,
I am convinced, satisfactorily prove its incorrect-
ness.
It will be seen that after passing through a
narrow strait, in which there was a rapid rush of
tide from the east,* my brother passed the Es-
tuary of Back's Great Fish River, and proceeding
some distance further, with a clear sea, reached
lon. 94° 14'; and obtained a view of the coast
for eight miles further. This was an advance to
precisely the same parallel of longitude that had
been reached by Sir John Ross in the Victory; and
the distance between the two points attained in
their sea-going craft, i. e., Felix Harbour (Ross),
and River Castor and Pollux (Simpson), is less
than one hundred miles in a line due north and
south. Pedestrian excursions made from the
Victory reduce this blank to less than sixty
miles.
* I find it recorded in my brother's notes (there is but one
other case which has come under my notice, in which his
notes add to the distinctness of his dispatches and narra-
tive), that "there are strong currents or little races among the
islands in the Strait of Boothia, also in the estuary of the
Great Fish River." If the comparatively open sea, to which
the Strait of Boothia led, were merely a cul de sac, as the
junction of Boothia Felix to the continent would make it,
how are we to account for these "strong currents or little
races ?"
Are they not indicatory of this being the open pas-
sage between two oceans?
400
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
There is nothing to induce a belief or sup-
position that there exists any obstructing land
between these two points: on the contrary, there
are the strongest reasons to conclude that there
is an open-sea communication between them.
With the plan of the maritime expedition
to be sent by Her Majesty's Government to the
Arctic Regions, I am quite unacquainted: but
taking naturally a deep interest in, and having
long and attentively studied the subject, I cannot
forbear making a few remarks in regard to it.
My decided opinion is, that the most advisable
channel for vessels to attempt the passage from
the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean is through
Barrow's Straits, Prince Regent's Inlet, the
Straits of Boothia, and thence along the Arctic
American coast to Behring's Straits: and I ex-
press a strong conviction, that notwithstanding
the uncertainties of Arctic navigation, a passage
may be accomplished through this channel with
only one winter's delay, in the Polar seas: nay,
that by good fortune a passage from sea to sea might
be accomplished the same season.
It is certainly within the bounds of perfect
probability, that by following the Eastern coast
of Prince Regent's Inlet, and Boothia Gulf be-
yond the Straits of the Fury and Hecla, (as yet
an unsurveyed coast,) and thence traversin
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
401
6
westward, the river Castor and Pollux' might
be reached before the 20th of August. After
that date my brother made good his way, in open
boats, in an open sea, frequently delayed by
storms, but not by ice, to the mouth of the
Coppermine River. Supposing that the vessels
attained this point too late to push further
westward, they might be secured for the winter in
one of the numerous harbours of Victoria Land,
or of the continent, of which the shores here,
and for a considerable part of the way to the
Mackenzie River, are bold and easy of approach.
There would be abundant occupation for the
officers in spring and early summer, in making
pedestrian journeys to the northward, and in a
careful examination of the copper deposits long
known to exist near the mouth of the Copper-
mine River, and which my brother discovered on
Barry's Islands in Bathurst's Inlet.
Those journeys, if well planned and directed,*
* It would much facilitate and increase the prospect of
success of such journeys, if a few men accustomed to travel-
ling with dogs and snow shoes were shipped, instead of the crews
being composed solely of genuine Jack Tars, good men and
true, in their own element, but, of course, perfect novices in
this mode of travelling. In the Orkney Islands there could be
found many men who have wintered in the fur countries bor-
dering on the barren grounds," hence well qualified to tra-
verse the warmer bays of the Arctic Ocean."
D D
402
ARCTIC DISCOVERY.
might do much to connect Victoria Land' with
the land seen by Parry to the South of Melville
Island. My belief is, that there is a Polar con-
tinent, or close Archipelago of islands, of which
'Victoria Land' (Simpson) and 'Wollaston Land’
(Richardson) are the southern extremities, while
'Bank's Land' (Parry) forms part of its northern
coast. Its western extremity, I think, will be
about long. 125°. Whether it is continuous on the
eastward to Boothia Felix, or not, is a question
which, I believe, exploration will decide in the
affirmative.
I have a strong opinion that the copper de-
posits will be found of much value: moreover,
that their working would be by no means an
impracticable scheme, when once the way has
been opened to private enterprise by well-
directed Government efforts. In these straits and
bays, I also believe that our whale fishermen
would find a rich and virgin field for the prosecu-
tion of their daring but lucrative enterprises.
The second season of open water should cer-
tainly suffice for the passage between the Copper-
mine and Behring's Straits, particularly after the
convincing evidence given by my brother's suc-
cess, that September is really the month most propi-
tious to Arctic navigation.
A. S."
"Ross-shire, March, 1845."
THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA. 403
THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER-THEIR CONDITION.
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER.
A QUARTER of a century ago, the poet's de-
scription of the Red men of North America as
"stoics of the woods-men without a tear," was
considered no romantic picture. Latterly the
opinion of the world has receded into the opposite
extreme.
While there was much illusion in the beau
idéal of dignity and bravery that was long re-
ceived as the correct delineation of the American
Indians, but scant justice has been done by late
writers to many noble and interesting traits of
character which they exhibit.
Let us first consider the causes which led to
exaggerated ideas regarding them.
The pilgrim fathers of New England found the
tribes in whose country they landed, haughty,
bold, and treacherous, repaying by the most fierce
attacks and horrible massacres the injuries which
they considered the white men had done them by
DD 2
404 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
settling in their country, and encroaching on
their hunting-grounds: the lovely vale of Wyo-
ming is a true type of many a fair scene suddenly
and fearfully devastated.
They found them, also, sternly resolute in en-
during the punishments which the New Eng-
landers-when the fortunes of the desultory yet
destructive warfare turned in their favour-did
not fail to inflict on the wicked and blood-thirsty
savages, who disquieted them in the retreat to
which they had fled from oppression in their
native land. The pilgrims and their descendants
for more than half a century, never met the Red
men save in a bloody skirmish, or in a solemn
council at which some temporary truce was to
be arranged, consequently, had little opportu-
nity for observing their real manners and cha-
racter; and the remembrance of injuries received
prevented their forming anything like a calm and
correct estimate. In the chronicles of the early
settlers in New England will be found abundant
evidence of the feeling of hatred mixed with
dread, which they entertained towards the race
by which they were surrounded.
During the war between England and France,
which ended in the capture of Quebec, and the
expulsion of the French from Canada, in which
war the New Englanders nobly bore their share,
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER. 405
the Red men were again encountered,—not now
indeed, fighting with the hope of exterminating
or expelling the Whites, but employed as mer-
cenaries by one or other of the contending
powers. During the revolutionary war they were
again so employed; and to the disgrace of civi-
lization, even in the nineteenth century, British
battalions were accompanied by bands of painted
warriors, whose chiefs affected to consider them-
selves as independent allies, and observed towards
our officers a haughty and stately bearing: the
proud answer of Tecumseth, when he refused
the decorations of a brigadier general, is of histo-
rical record.
Under such circumstances alone were the In-
dians of North America, for a long time, known
to all save the few adventurous traders settled
among them. They were met as ruthless enemies
in bloody skirmishes, or seen acting the part of
auxiliaries anxious to increase the value of their
services, and well aware that their best means
of accomplishing this object, was to show them-
selves to their allies, or more properly employers,
in their most imposing attitudes. Hence their
haughty reserve, their solemn councils, and their
frightful war-dances.
View we now the other side of the picture.
In these "piping times of peace," gentlemen
406 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
make tours of pleasure even in the prairies of
the far west.
Omne ignotum pro magnifico might explain,
in some measure, the romantic impressions so
long existing regarding the Red men. The adage
that "too much familiarity breeds contempt,"
discloses the secret of the later depreciatory
descriptions of them.
*
They are represented now as talkative and
noisy; indulging in and delighted by buffoonery,—
in fact, arrant gossips and jesters. They are de-
scribed as brutal in their usage of their women,
extravagantly fond of self-decoration, gamblers,
gluttons, drunkards, greedy bargain-makers, au-
dacious pilferers, and importunate beggars; as
shrinking from bold and open attack, and de-
lighting to pounce upon an unprepared and
defenceless enemy.
I admit that most of these degrading traits do
belong, in a certain degree, even to the tribes
least altered by intercourse with White men.
But their talkativeness and buffoonery can be
in a moment laid aside, and replaced by a natural
dignity and graceful reserve.
The apparently harsh usage of their women
generally goes no further than the exaction from
* See W. Irving's "Tour in the Prairies," Farnham's
"Rocky Mountains," Murray's "Travels in America," &c.
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER.
407
them of a certain share of the labour: the man
undergoes all the fatigues and privations of the
chase; the instant he has entered his tent his
labours cease, and all the duties of the camp are
performed by the women. A division of toil
almost precisely similar to this is rigidly observed
in the fishing villages of Scotland; where the
men's labours cease the instant the keel has
touched the shore.
The pains the men take in self-decoration are
attributable to their opinion that, to be fiercely
painted and gaily plumed, are the marks of a
brave warrior and good hunter.
And for their gluttony and drunkenness, it
may be pleaded that sensual gratifications are
the only ones known to them: that natural reli-
gion is ever powerless over savages, and that
revealed religion has never been taught them.
That the "bravest of the brave" of the Indian
warriors would shrink from the open and bold
attack, which a White man would consider pre-
ferable to the suspense of a long and continued
state of alarm and watchfulness, is undoubtedly
true. In a great measure this arises from the
opinion which has been instilled into them, that
he is the greatest warrior who can most injure
his enemy with the least exposure of himself.
But in opposition to this seeming cowardice, it
408 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
may safely be alleged, that there is in a Prairie
Indian, a stern yet passionate energy which a
pale face can never rival. At the command of
his chief, to gratify his own revenge, or to injure
the enemies of his tribe, he will bear hunger,
thirst, fatigue, and privation to an extent which
appears almost beyond human endurance. He
will track an enemy for weeks, follow him when
he travels, watch him when he halts; and, true
to his dogma, he will wait with the most untiring
patience for the safest moment to strike the
blow. If he fall into the hands of his enemy
he resigns himself, without an entreaty for mercy,
to his fate. If his death is to be a speedy one,
he wraps his blanket round his head, and thus
awaits the shot or the blow which is to finish his
career; if he is to be exposed to a lingering
death by torture, he will, at the stake, taunt and
mock his tormentors: 'tis not of the frantic
victims of the revolutionary guillotine of whom
alone it might be said that "even the scaffold
echoes to their jest."
For this endurance the youthful Indian of the
Prairie tribes is prepared by long training, by the
counsels of the elders, and by the example of
the warriors of his tribe. No squire in the days
of chivalry was more severely tried before he
won the spurs of knighthood, than is a Prairie
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER. 409
youth ere he is admitted to the rank of a warrior.
The last trial,-the confirmation,-is terrific. The
novitiates are placed in the centre of a large
tent, round which the elders and warriors of the
tribe repose at ease. Here they are obliged to
continue for three days and three nights in per-
petual action; dancing their frantic war dances,
while they shout their discordant cries, and sing
their monotonous tunes. Not a moment's repose
is allowed; neither drink nor food is permitted
to be given them; and the only relief tolerated
is, that their friends may, at distant intervals,
moisten their lips with water, or a piece of fat:
even this slight relief a candidate for high re-
nown must reject.
The sufferings endured in this fearful ordeal
are beyond description; and the scene near the
conclusion is frightful. The young men whose
powers have stood the test-(many of course fail)
—are in a state of frantic delirium: their eyes are
glazed and blood-shot; their lips are cracked
and streaming with froth and gore; and their
whole appearance is more that of a band of de-
vils than of living men. Those who have safely
passed through this ordeal have, it will be allowed,
given a proof of their capacity for almost any
amount of mental or physical endurance.
Such is the character and such are the habits
410 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
and training of the numerous tribes roving over
the immense Prairie stretching north and south
through the centre of America, for more than
twenty degrees of latitude-the last refuge, ra-
pidly encroached upon-of the independent and
unchanged aborigines of the northern continent
of America,
Similar in character and discipline, though dif-
fering in some of their habits, were the Mohawks,
the Iroquois, the Narragansets, the Mohicans, and
other once powerful tribes encountered by the
White men on the Atlantic coasts and rivers.
Bold was the stand they made against the en-
croachments of the pale faces! and, though they
were at length conquered, their resistance was
marked by many fierce struggles and many daring
deeds.
"'Tis true that they have past away,
That noble race, and brave,—
That their light canoes have vanish'd
From off the crested wave,—
That 'mid the forests where they roam'd
There rings no hunter's shout.”
Their habits differed in this-that the Atlantic
tribes, living in a country whose trackless forests
(now the site of many a fair city and thriving
a town) abounded with deer, and whose waters
(now navigated by hundreds of mammoth steam-
ers) teemed with beaver and fish, had no in-
AN INQUIRY INTO THEIR CHARACTER. 411
ducement to roam from the hunting-grounds
which belonged to them; thus, though a nomad,
they were a comparatively concentrated popu-
lation. While the Prairie tribes, owners of
countless bands of horses, which enable them
alike to make distant forages into their enemies'
country, and to pursue the vast herds of buffalo,
whence they derive their principal subsistence,
-are essentially a wandering and predatory race.
The Indians on the Northern Pacific sea-board
(the Oregon country, as the Americans term it)
bear a strong resemblance in habits and character
to the almost extinct and forgotten Atlantic
race. They also live in a country abounding
with deer and fish: they are numerous, fierce,
and resolute; divided into many tribes, which are
in a state of continual hostility to each other,
but all inclined, when an opportunity offers, to
attack and massacre the White men.
But far different in character are the mild and
harmless tribes spread over the immense tracts
of wooded country, bounded on the south by the
Canadas, on the east by Hudson's Bay, on the
north by the barren grounds bordering on the
Arctic Ocean, and extending on the west to the
northern range of the Stony Mountains.
Among the thirty or forty tribes, speaking
nearly as many different languages, living in this
412 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
cheerless region, there are, of course, gradations
of character, some far exceeding others in energy
and courage, and even in the most timid tribe an
individual of resolution and daring being some-
times found,-still, in describing them generally,
mildness and timidity may be considered as the
rule, and bravery the exception. Small parties
of White men, and even single individuals, can
pass entirely unarmed through most parts of this
immense region. At the trading houses, often
occupied by but two or three men, scarcely any
precautions are used to prevent, or preparations
made to resist, attack: and murders of white
men have been, for the last twenty years, almost
unknown.
Occupying countries where provisions are to be
obtained only by much exertion-particularly for
the many months over which, in that cold climate,
the winter extends; obliged to live scattered in
small bands or single families, the sole aim of
their lives is to procure food for their daily use,
and furs to exchange with the traders for the few
European articles which they now require: in
these pursuits alone are their energies called into
play.
They are an abject and improvident race-with
all the bad qualities, and few, if any, of the bright
redeeming traits which marked the character of
THEIR CONDITION.
413
the almost extinct Atlantic tribes, and which still
mark that of the independent warriors of the
Prairies.
THEIR CONDITION.
The powerful and warlike tribes which encoun-
tered the French on their first settlement in
Canada, and which, after it had been for some
time colonized, by a sudden and well-concerted
attack massacred nearly all the inhabitants of the
beautiful island on which the city of Montreal
was built, have been, indeed, somewhat more
fortunate than their more southern brethren who
combated with the stern pilgrims of New Eng-
land, and made treaties with the gentle Penn and
his followers. Of those the beautiful and appro-
priate names still borne by many of the Rivers,
Lakes, and States of the Union, are now the sole
remaining memorials:
"Their memory liveth on those hills,
Their baptism on that shore,
The everlasting rivers speak
Their dialect of yore.
Old Massachusets wears it
Within his lordly crown,
And broad Ohio bears it
Amid his young renown.
Connecticut has wreath'd it
Where her quiet foliage waves,
And bold Kentucky breathes it hoarse
Through all her ancient caves."
414 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
The French colonists, notwithstanding this
dreadful massacre, seem never to have felt to-
wards their "red-browed brethren," the same
animosity that was cherished by the New Eng-
landers. The Canadian governors soon acquired
the confidence of the Indian chiefs, whom they
conciliated by gifts and courtesies; and thus ob-
tained the aid of their tribes in the war which
was so long waged between England and France
on the western continent.
Two powerful and energetic ecclesiastical bodies,
the Jesuits and St. Sulpicians, ardently engaged
in the labour of converting the savages to the
Catholic faith, and received from the French kings
large grants of land in the outskirts of the colony,
to enable them to provide not only for their own
expenses, but also for the protection and sup-
port of their converts.
But though the aborigines of Canada were
thus, from the first arrival on the continent of
America of White men, much more favoured
than those of the English provinces, and have
also received, up to the present time, more pro-
tection and encouragement (not always, it is true,
well directed) from the British government than
has been accorded to their brethren in the United
States, yet they, also, have disappeared rapidly
before advancing civilization. A few wretched
THEIR CONDITION.
415
villages are all the possessions that now belong to
the descendants of the numerous tribes once sole
occupiers of the banks of the mighty St. Law-
rence; and the possession even of these has been
preserved to them only by the fact of their being,
by provincial law, prevented from selling their
rights of property therein. Were it not for this
prohibition, these their last refuges would be
bartered to the White men for worse than a mess
of pottage-for rum-that bane of all savage
tribes.
Every visitor to Quebec pays also a visit to the
neighbouring Indian village of Lorette, where he
can stare at the natives, and lay in a stock of
mocassins and other curiosities. No one can
pass through the streets of Montreal without
observing the Caughnawaga squaws, in their
graceful costume, retailing articles of their manu-
facture, or wild fruit gathered in the moun-
tains; and their drunken husbands staggering
about under the influence of liquor, paid for by
their hard labour in the bateaux, and on the
timber-rafts of the St. Lawrence. The traveller
who steams up the Ottawa will not fail to admire
the (at a distance) beautiful Indian village of
Lake of the Two Mountains, in which a few
hundred Indians still congregate in summer;
its old loop-holed church buildings (still occu-
416 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
pied by St. Sulpicians) embosomed in trees,
under which councils have sat for centuries
beyond record. Small communities of natives,
reformed from their evil habits by the teaching
and example of worthy men of the Wesleyan
persuasion, are settled on the River Crédit, and
on Lake St. Clair in Western Canada. A few
wretched families of pure or mixed Indian blood
are still to be found in the vicinity of the Rice
Lake, at St. Regis on the St. Lawrence, and near
the town of Three Rivers; and these are all the
remnants of the aboriginal race now existing
scattered among the million colonists of European
birth or descent who occupy the banks of the
St. Lawrence and Ottawa, and the shores of
Lakes Erie and Ontario.
The upper country of the Ottawa and the
shores of Lake Huron have not yet been taken
possession of by colonists; but even there, wood-
hewers and other adventurers have penetrated,
and the natives are rapidly decreasing in number.
The fire-water works its usual effects among the
men; while to use the words of a late Canadian
Governor*—whose romantic dispatches occasion-
ally frighted the Colonial Office from its pro-
priety, nay, even awakened Lord Glenelg from
*Sir Francis B. Head.
THEIR CONDITION.
417
D
his apathetic slumbers-"by some infernal powers
the faces of the babies are becoming blanched!"
From this region came the Ojibiway Indians,
lately exhibiting in London. I may remark re-
garding them, that to gull the English public-
(gullible it was declared by Shakspeare to have
been in his time,* gullible it still is)—they were
decked out in costumes which they neither saw
nor wore in their own country. The leather
dresses and ornaments were those appertaining
to the Prairie tribes, whose nearest haunt is dis-
tant at least one thousand miles from the Ojibi-
way country. Their war-dances, also, were merely
antics carefully rehearsed for the occasion: of
war they have no knowledge or experience,
being a quiet demi-civilized race.
With all the other Indian tribes of British
America (the few scattered over New Brunswick
and Nova Scotia excepted) the Hudson's Bay
Company alone has communication.
Its charter, it is true, gives it an exclusive
right only to the trade of the country whose
waters fall into Hudson's Bay: to which char-
*"A strange fish! Were I in England now (as once I was)
and had but this fish painted, not a holiday fool there but
would give a piece of silver: there would this monster make
a man-any strange beast there makes a man.
When they
would not give a doit to relieve a lame beggar, they will lay
out ten to see a dead Indian."-Tempest.
E E
418 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
tered right the British Government has, under
sanction of an Act of Parliament, added the
country whose waters fall into the Arctic Ocean.
In the unsurveyed tracts comprised within the
territorial boundaries of the Canadas, it possesses
no exclusive right; but over all this country,
wherever Indians were to be found, the North
West Company had formed trading establish-
ments, which were transferred to the joint con-
cern, and are generally still maintained. Other
parties have, indeed, on many occasions endea-
voured to participate in the traffic of these places:
but the ample resources of the Company enables
it either to crush or to buy out its competitors.
Mildness and conciliation in the intercourse
of its officers and servants with Indians of every
tribe; an absence of interference in the quarrels
of individuals, in the internal disputes of tribes,
and in the wars which they may wage with one
another, and an invariable rule of avenging the
murder by Indians of any of its servants, blood
for blood, without trial of any kind, are the three
and only principles followed out by the Hudson's
Bay Company in its transactions with the nu-
merous inhabitants of the extensive territory
under its control; and its sole aim is to derive
the greatest possible revenue from that territory.
This aim is pursued with great inflexibility,
and with a minuteness of attention to detail,
THEIR CONDITION.
419
that would, at first glance, appear almost im-
practicable.
The prices paid to the natives for their furs
are, in general, exceedingly small. Throughout
the whole of the protected territories, the value
of goods bartered for furs is, certainly, under one
twentieth of the value of those furs in England.
While in places not protected, in order to crush or
prevent competition, even more than their full
value has occasionally been given; and at the
establishments on the outskirts of Canada, the
prices permanently offered are from two to tenfold
greater than those given to the natives of the re-
gions over which an exclusive right of trade exists.
6
It is true that other expenses necessarily incur-
red in the prosecution of the trade, such as the
wages of officers and servants, and the freight
of shipping, add materially to the otherwise ridi-
culously small outlay of the Company; still,
enough remains of what is wrung from the hard
hands of Indians,' to pay dividends in London,
which for many years made Hudson's Bay stock
-notwithstanding the large capital sunk in the
rivalry with the North-West Company-one of
the best investments in England; and its present
depreciation is owing, not to any material decline
in the fur trade, but to losses incurred in a
variety of schemes extraneous to the business,
which alone its officers understand.
420 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
The entire value of all the furs and other
articles, traded by the Company from Indians in
all its territories and possessions, averages less
than two hundred thousand pounds per annum.
In one year it amounted to two hundred and
eleven thousand pounds: and the nett profits for
that year were declared at one hundred and nine-
teen thousand pounds!
I will not assert that the griping system by
which these excessive gains are obtained, does
really produce general misery among the natives
subject to it. The wants of Indians in a region
where buffalo or deer are to be found, as is the
case over a large portion of the country, are
limited to ammunition and a few articles of iron
and tin, and their desires to the possession of a
few trinkets. Where those animals are not to be
found, fish from the lakes and rivers, and rabbits
snared in the thick woods, are, in most places,
almost unfailing resources; leaving the natives
dependent upon the traders but for fishing-nets
and lines, a few utensils, and a small supply of
woollen clothing.
There are, however, some extensive tracts of
country in which the means of subsistence are
scanty in the extreme. In the region lying be-
tween Lakes Superior and Winipeg, the natives
during winter can with difficulty collect enough
of food to support life. In the country lying im-
THEIR CONDITION.
421
}
mediately north of the Canadas, though fur-bear-
ing animals are still comparatively numerous, and
the trade consequently valuable, the poor Indians
have, at all times, a hard fight against famine.
In this tract of country fish is at all seasons
scarce, and in winter the sole dependance of the
natives for subsistence is placed upon rabbits (the
most wretched food upon which to exist for any
time that can possibly be conceived); and when
these fail, the most frightful tragedies at times
take place. Parents have been known to length-
en out a miserable existence by killing and de-
vouring their own children.*
* Revolting and incredible as this may appear, it takes place
occasionally among all the Indian tribes when starvation is
imminent. My brother records thus:
A valid reason for leaving home." In a conversation with
the Dogribs we afterwards learned that these mountain Indians
are cannibals, and immediately upon any scarcity arising, cast
lots for victims. Their fierce manners have been circumstan-
tially detailed by an old man, who, while yet a stripling, fled
from the tribe, and joined himself to the Dogribs, in conse-
quence of finding his mother, on his return from a successful
day's hunting, employed in roasting the body of her own
child, his youngest brother."
I may, in like manner, instance the following as
A good reason for a separation.-An Indian couple, finding
their provisions quite exhausted, lengthened out their existence
by eating their children. Plenty again reigned with them;
but the thoughts of the cannibal father still revelled in the
delights of human flesh. In the exuberance of these thoughts
he unwittingly muttered in his wife's hearing, "She is fat, and
would be good to eat." The hint was not lost on the woman.
422 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
The climate and soil of these tracts are quite
unfit for cultivation: but as the number of
Indians inhabiting them is but small, and the dis-
tance but short to points whence provisions could
be transported, a small share of the sum produced
by the furs they kill, would suffice to prevent
much misery and some most unnatural crimes.
I repeat that with the exception of the thin-
ly peopled tracts I have described, and the ex-
treme northern regions bordering on the barren
grounds of the Arctic Ocean, which were the
winter residences of those employed in Arctic
discovery-the natives generally suffer but little
from starvation (their great and only misery),
notwithstanding their own great improvidence:
and their physical condition would be but little
altered by the adoption of a more liberal system
of dealing with them.
Of their moral condition it is difficult-almost
As soon as he slept, she firmly bound his arms and legs, and
then set off with all speed for the nearest trading station.
A strong incentive to industry. An expert old hunter,
accompanied by his wife and a young boy placed in their
charge, went off in the autumn to their hunting-grounds.
The old couple returned in the spring with an unusually
large quantity of furs, and consequently had an extra allow-
ance of grog. In vino veritas. In the talkativeness of
intoxication the man declaimed thus:-" I'm a good hunter,
a very good hunter; I have brought many skins to the fort;
but if I had not killed the beavers they were on, my wife
would have eaten me as she ate the boy."
THEIR CONDITION.
423
impossible to give much information.
To in-
quire into it has not fallen within the province of
the trader to ameliorate it has not been much
Chastity, honesty, and truth, they
attempted.
have scarcely an idea of.
With the exception of those placed on the
confines of civilization, and the few located at
Red River colony, none have, until a very recent
period, heard of Christianity, save perhaps acci-
dentally from traders, whose lives but little ac-
corded with its precepts.
Like all men in a savage state, they had among
themselves an obscure idea of the existence of
a good spirit and of a bad spirit (the last the most
feared), a belief in a future life, and a vague tra-
dition of a deluge.
This natural religion varied as widely among
the different tribes, as did their characters, lan-
guages, and habits; but, to a certain extent, was
existent in all: and their superstitions were
equally varied.
This extensive field for missionary enterprise
was unoccupied until the year 1839, when the
attention of the Wesleyan Conference of Canada
was directed towards it. Since then, ten or
twelve zealous missionaries of that persuasion
have been scattered over the wide "Indian Coun-
try," a large field for the exercise of Christian
zeal and self devotion. May they be successful!
424 THE INDIANS OF NORTHERN AMERICA.
I cannot close this description of the character
and condition of a much injured, much neglected,
and therefore rapidly decreasing branch of the
great family of mankind, without quoting the
following remarks on the proper conduct of
White men towards savages (of all regions) which
were addressed to me by an associated body of
French philanthropists-(far different, alas! is the
general conduct of the French nation). "Nous
pensons avec vous, Monsieur, que l'humanité en
général peut et doit retirer un grand bénéfice des
efforts combinés des philanthropes, des hommes
d'état, d'expérience, et de bonne volonté, et que
l'amélioration de sa condition physique et morale
ne peut avoir lieu que par suite de leur asso-
ciation; les progrès de la civilization dépendent
d'elle et, commes vous le faites fort bien remar-
quer, c'est par l'observance rigoureuse des lois de
l'honneur, de la justice, et l'application constante
des préceptes de l'Evangile, code sublime de
bienveillance réciproque, que les sauvages même
savent comprendre, qu'il sera possible de les con-
quérir moralement."
THE END.
LONDON: Printed by S. & J. BENTLEY, WILSON, and FLEY,
Bangor House, Shoe Lane.

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