XOX
X
COR UNUM. VIA UNA
William Sandford
-000
900
TRAVEL
IN TO
Hen: Sandford
EL S
DAL MA AT I
CONTAINING
А
A.;
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THAT COUNTRY
AND THE NEIGHBOURING ISLANDS; THE NATURAL PRODUCTIONS,
ARTS, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS:
SERIES
ABBE
IN A
OF LETTERS
FROM
ALBERTO FORTIS,
TO THE
EARL OF BUTE, THE BISHOP OF LONDONDERRY,
JOHN STRANGE, Esq. &c. &c.
TO WHICH ARE ADDED BY THE SAME AUTHOR,
OBSERVATIONS
CHERSO
ON THE ISLAND
O F
AND OSER O.
TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN UNDER THE AUTHOR's INSPECTION.
WITH AN APPENDIX, AND OTHER CONSIDERABLE
ADDITIONS, NEVER BEFORE PRINTED.
ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY COPPER PLATES.
MODO EXUSTIONE, MODO ELUVIONE TERRARUM
DIUTURNITATI RERUM INTERCEDIT OCCASUS.
MACROB. IN SOMN. SCIP. L. 2. C. 10.
L о ND ON:
PRINTED FOR J. ROBSON, BOOKSELLER,
NEW BOND STREET.
M DCC LXXVIII.
RIGHT
TO TH Z
HONOURABLE
THE EARL OF BUTE,
KNIGHT OF THE GARTER.
MY LORD,
TH
HE earnest defire I have of making known to the
World, how much I eſteem and honour Your Lordſhip,
and by how many Ties of particular Gratitude I am become
Yours, encourages me to give this public Teſtimony of it, in
the only Way that Fortune ufually offers to Men of Letters.
Though fuch a Tribute bears no Proportion to Your Lordship's
Greatneſs, yet I prefent it chearfully, being perfuaded that it
will be graciouſly reccived; and the more fo, as Your Lordship
in reality has had the greateſt Share in the Work itſelf. For it
began under Your Aufpices, from that beneficent Genius that
inſpires You to promote, by the moſt generous Means, the Im-
provement of the Arts and Sciences in general, and particularly
Natural Hiſtory, Your favourite Study. It was Your Lordship's
learned
a
303716
iv
DEDICATION.
learned Curiofity and Munificence, fo well known throughout
the Polite Parts of Europe, that firft encouraged me to croſs the
Adriatick, principally to enquire into the Truth of the prevail-
ing Report concerning the extenfive Strata of Foffil Bones in
the Iſlands of Liburnia, and along the Coaſts of Dalmatia. It
was alfo by Your Lordship's defire, that I reduced into
fome Form the particular Obfervations I had occafionally made
there. How far the Execution has correſponded with the Pains
I have endeavoured to take, Your Lordship muft judge; but be:
that as it may, I am perfuaded that You will judge with Indul,
gence, and accept with Pleaſure, the cordial and reſpectful
Offering of a grateful Mind.
1
T
to it.
I HAVE THE HONOUR TO BE,
+
to knoff
增
​"'
to valore
WITH THE MOST DEVOTED ATTACHMENT,
MY LORD,
YOUR LORDSHIP'S EN
MOST OBLIGED AND
1 %
**༨.
OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANÍ.
$ >
A L. BERTO FORT IS.
5
CONTENTS.
f
?
OF the Territory of Zara.
Ilands Ulbo and Selve.
Island of Zapuntello
Iſland of Uglian.
Quality of the Stone that forms the Island of Uglian
Of the City of Zara
City and District of Nona
Page I
3
5
7
6
14
18
Diſtrict of Zara
21
Trajan's Acqueduct
ib.
Biograd, or Alba Maritima
23
Caftle of Urana
24
Petrefactions of Ceragne, Bencovaz, &c.
30
Of Oftrovizza
Ruins of Afferia
Manna of Coflovaz
The River Brifbirfchiza and Morpolazza
3E
o ex
34
35
38
To
1
[ vi ]
S༑ ་ དཱི
To Signior MOROSINI.
Manners of the Morlacchi
ormade to fiủa
Sadie
madić în m
Page 43
to 19
46
Etymology of the Namenrod to Bad and art oncafé
Origin of the Morlacchi
Zub
Moral and domeftick Virtues of the Morlacchi
Their Friendſhip and Quarrels
Talents and Arts of the Morlacchi
Superftitions of the Morlacchi
The Manners of the Morlacchi
The Morlack Women's Drefs
འ
Marriages, Pregnancy and Child-birth.
The Food of the Morlacchi
Utenfils, Cottages, Cloaths, Arms, &c,
Their Mufick, Dances, Poetry, &c.
The Medical Art
Funerals of the Morlacchi
BER
!
د
}
2
1.
€
{
f 50%
-.53
56
59
61.
64
66
68
77
望
​79.
-82:
86
shi) orígdod
UNT NA
88-
›TO ANT. VALLISNIERI, Profeffor of natural Hiftery, &c.
}:
The River Kerka, the Titius of the Ancients
00.
It's true Sourfes
The Vulcanic Hills
5
Concerning Knin, Monte Cavallo, aud Verbnik
Courfe of the River Kerka
Ruins of Burnum
Caſcade of Scardona
เ
Of the City of Scardona
Of the Reports concerning Dalmatian Mineralogy
sagt: ww
92
95
9.6
I
..
.99
102
,,o8
> }
11.0
112.
3
To
[vii]
}
To the ABBE BRUNELLI.
Of the District of Sibenico
Men of Letters at Sibenico
ደ
The Port of Sibenico, and the Lake of Scardona
The Fishery upon the Lake, Fofils, &c.
Obfervations on the Androface
Rock of St. Stephano
Island of Morter
Of Tribough, Vodilza, Parvich, &c.
Of the Lakes of Zablachie and Morigne
Simoſkoi and Rogofniza
Page 117
I 20
132
137
145
147
147
1-50
"154
156.
To Mr. J. JAMES FERBER, Member of the Mineralogical
College of Sweden, &c.
Of the Country of Trau
Of Bofiglina, Illide or Hyllis
City of Trau
Iſland of Bua
Mines of Piffafphaltum
Of the articulated Petellites
Sea Coast of Trau
€ ??
Noxious Infects of Trau
1ỐI
163
166
170
-176
180
185
188
i
t
TO JOHN STRANGE, Efq.
Diſtrict of Spalatro
Strata of the Promontory Marian
The Port, and City of Spalatro
191
193
199
Rams
[viii]
Ruins of Salona
}
Page 204
The Mountain of Cliffa and Moffor
ASHA TA
Of the Country inhabited by the Morlacchi
The Mountain Sutina
506 of H
Ruins of Epetium end has 2 and
}
$
OTANA I
To Signior MARSILI, Profeffor of Botany, &c. &c.
>
? 1
Of the River Cettina, the Tilurus of the Ancients
A Morlacco Dinner in a Church Yard
Plain of Pafcopoglie, Fonte Salfa, Island of Otok, Ruins of
Coloni Æquenfis
܀
207
210
215
· 217
224
1234
236
Vulcanic Hills and Lakes of Krin, the Gypfum of, Seign 239
Fortress of Seign, and the Plain near it
Courſe of the Cettina, Precipices and Cafcades
+
Province of Pogliza, its Government
City of Almiffa
है
ד
* ›
>
242
залить
244
251
255
1259
260
{
Natural Wall of Rogofniza, and of Urullia, the Peguntium
18+ of the Ancients
The Paklara, or Remora, of the Latins
+
To the Bishop of LONDONDERRY.
Goncerning the Primorie, or Paratalaffia of the Ancients
The Town of Macarfka
Of the Mountain Biocova, that commands Macarſka
Meteors in the Primorie
$
265
266
271
274
Of the Sea Coast of the Primorie, Fishing, &c. ..
278
The Villages along the Shore-Macaríka, &c.
290
The Whirlpools of Coccorich, Lakes of Raftok, Jezero and
Defna, and the River Trebifat
301
The Rivers Norien, and Narenta
308
To
[ix]
TO ABBE LAZZERO SPALLANZÁNI, Profeffor of Natural
Hiſtory, &c.
Iflands of Liffa, Pelagofa, Lefina and Brazza, &c.
Page 319
344
Ifland of Arbe, in the Gulph of Quarnaro
Obfervations on the Iſlands of CHERSO and OSERO.
Of the various ancient Names of the Iland
Ancient Inhabitants of the Iland, Sketch of Civil Hiftory
The Divifion of the Iſland, Towns and Villages
The City of Cherfo
The Soil of the Ifland
Cultivation of the Iſland
Shrubs and Herbs ufeful and hurtful-Catalogue of Plants
Animals
Of the Fishing-
The Lake of Jefero
Caverns and Gulphs
Fofil Bones
Nature of Marble and Petrifactions
Iſlands adjacent to Cherfo and. Ofero
Ancient Infcriptions
361
374
388
395
403
406
420
424
426
429
434
440
451
465
480
Letter to JOHN SYMONDS, Efq; by way of Appendix to the
foregoing Obfervations on the Island of CHERSO and
OSERO.
Concerning the Iland of Pago-Of the Situation of Pago, with
Jome Geographical Remarks
C
487
499
Of
!
[ x ]
Of the Climate
Of the Cultivation and chief Products of the Iſlands
Nature of the Soil and the Stones
+
Page 500
501
503
504
507
Of the inhabited Places of the Ifland, hiftorical Remarks oon-
cerning them, and Veftiges of Antiquity
Cuſtoms and Superftitions
APPENDIX to the Obfervations on CHERSO and OSERO; giving
fome Account of the Littoral CROATIA, the Ilands of PAGO
VEGLIA, &c. in Three Letters from the ABBE FORTIS,
to JOHN STRANGE, Efq; his Britannick Majefty's Minifter
at Venice
LETTER I. Account of Littoral Croatia, &c.
509
LETTER II. Of the littoral Part of the Mountain Morlacca,
of Lika, and the Island of Pago
520
LETTER II. Concerning the Island of Veglia in general
53T
Of the most remarkable Places on the Iſland
537
Of the Nature of the Soil of the Iſland, its Marble and Foffils 540
Products and Commerce of the Iſland of Veglia
543
Iter Buda
545
то
MAP
of the
TERRITORIES OF
ZARA and SEBENICO
PARTE
DELLÅ
PARTE
DI
LIKA
Zermagna f.
Buonig
Zuonigrad
"
Buanse
Į
BOS
SINA
Topo
KNIN
Tyre
Vrilo Cettine
Verlica
Cettina
Otok
Cossovo
M.Promina
PETROV O PO GLI E
:
。 Mirilovich
P. 1.
Verba
TRAV
Bug
Morlacca
lla M
Canal det
PAGO
Parte dell'Is. di Pago
Vibo.
Selve.
1. Puntadura
NONA
Priulaca
Peterzame
L.Boccagnarno
Cofin
A M
K
Zemonico
Smoch
Can.di Obrovaz
NOVIGRADI
Suppliacerqua
B÷V÷K÷0÷V-I÷Z-Z-A
Carin
А
R
т
Nadin
Ostrovizza
bir ſchizo
Derish
ZAGORIE
#
Podgraje
tancourr
O Coflovaz
the Perufsich
Bencovaz
Morpolazza
Ruppe
o Bribir
LVisova
Jujova
Goducchia
SCARDONA
torr
Cicolla
M. Tartar
Prifteg
。 Ceragne
Vrana
Radassin
Bagnvar
S. Cassanio.
ZARA
Tuſtizza S. Filippo,
Biograd
Pacofiane
Emikrano
stosella
1.Morter
Vodizze
•Trebocconig
Sma
་་
Supplia SEBENICO
stina
zlar
L.Morigne
Crapano
Sebenico vecchio
1. Rogofiena
Uglian
Calo
Pafman
Melada
Zaprintel
Isola Grossa”
Zut
• Coronata
I. Zum
MIL
TO THE
RIGHT HONOURABLE THÈ
EARL OF BUTE.
>
Y
Óf the Country of ZARA in DALMATIA.
OUR Lordſhip did me the honour, a few years ago, gra-
cioufly to accept of the tribute of my obfervations on
the Iflands, of Cherfo, and Offero, on the borders of
Dalmatia, which were not only firſt encouraged by your Lord-
ſhip, but executed wholly under your generous patronage; I
therefore flatter myself, that you will alſo condefcend, with e-
qual benignity, to accept of a ſmall tributary flaare of my more
general obfervations on the natural hiftory of Dalmatia, which I
have fince undertaken there, under the patronage of noble Me-
cenati. Should theſe obſervations meet with your Lordſhip's ap-
probation, my ambition will be fully gratified; as I know you
are not lefs a proficient, in all the learned and ufeful fciences,
than you are a protector of them.
The extent of the Venetian territory in Dalmatia is too great,
and the number of iſlands in the neighbouring ſea toò confidera-
ble,
氰
​AMA
B
سم
2013
[ 2 ]
子
​218 0910CAVI
JADIO, D9701.
IC
Y DOS
ble, for naturalifts to expect any thing complete, from fuch
ſhort peregrinations. Men however are not wanting, who, tranf-
ported by the ardour of youth, and the perfuafion of being able to
impofe on the literary world, undertake to defcribe in a few
months, the botanical, animal, and foffil hiftory of the largeſt
provinces: but he who is uſed to confider, with philofophic-
leiſure, the immence variety of things, is foon convinced, that:
the life of a man is not ſufficient (whatever affiftance he may
have met with) to compofe a complete natural hiftory of the
ſmalleſt iſland, or district. A fimple mineral water, or fubter-
raneous cavern, or the courfe of a river, with its confluent ftreams,.
requires much attention and confideration, before one can pretend.
to treat of either of them expreffly. And how can it be other-
wife, if the fiſhes in the ſmalleſt creek of the fea, nay one of
them alone, à plant, or an infect, if one is defirous to know per
fectly its properties and transformations, is enough to employ
an attentive naturalift, for months, and fometimes years, before
can acquire a competent knowledge of it? And who would
not become cautious and diffident, on reflecting, that all
that Śwammerdam, Reaumur, Maraldi, and fo many other
celebrated men, have obferved concerning bees, proves to be
inaccurate, fince the late obfervations of M. Schirach? Your
Lordſhip, who is well acquainted with the difficulties, and vaſt
extent of the field, in which the naturalift labours, will, I am
convinced, receive theſe obſervations, that I have been able to
make, with the candour that is natural to great, and enlighten-
ed minds; for thoſe who are ignorant, or know little of this
fcience, are commonly the moſt ſevere, and illiberal in their ac-
cufations. Donati, after having ſpent ſeveral years in travelling in
Dalmatia, had not the courage to publish any more than an ef-
fay, on the natural hiftory of the Adriatick.
And the great
Haller, after long reſearches among the Alps of Switzerland,
21(3
$
TRIL
gave
[
3 ]
gave an eminent example of his modefty, by publiſhing, an at-
tempt towards a catalogue of the Helvetic plants. What then car
be expected from me, whofe experience and wiſdom are trifling,
in compariſon with thofe great and diftinguiſhed characters.
Of the Islands ULBO, and SELVE.
Having paffed that part of the gulph, which, by our mari-
ners, and geographers, is known by the name of Quarnaro, I
firſt landed on two iſlands, called Ulbo, and Selve, that are
contiguous to each other, and between which, the fmall vef-
fels bound from Venice to Zara, commonly pafs. Theſe
are probably the fame that Conftantine Porphyrogenitus*
numbered among the uninhabited ifles, under the names, mu-
tilated according to his cuſtom, of Alaep, and Selbo. The con-
venience of their fituation has drawn inhabitants to them in our
days, and they are even cultivated beyond what their poor, and
ungrateful foil deferves; for the ground is fo dry, and ſtony,
that olives feldom come to any perfection; vines produce bad
The ftone that moſt a-
grapes; and corn fucceeds ftill worſe.
bounds, is a kind of hard, whitish marble, which, as your
Lordſhip knows, is alſo found in a great quantity, among the
highest mountains in Italy, particularly about Peperno, Ter-
racina, and the royal Villa of Caferta. I know not, if this
kind of marble is found on the higher mountains of Triuli,
having hitherto had no opportunity of vifiting that country;
where alfo (as I have been told) there are but very few declared
lovers of foffil knowledge. The greateſt part of the Peninſula
of Itria is however compofed of it; and the fame ſpecies a-
bounds in the intermediate iflands, appearing to be of contempe-
*Goft. Porph. de Themat. Ipm. Them. Dalm. c. 29.
rary
[ 4 ]
$
rary origin, with that of the neighbouring littoral, and medi
terranean mountains, in which are feen vaſt ftrata of this mar-
ble, though often interrupted, and out of their natural pofition..
}
0
2014
T
At Venice, this marble is particularly ufed in building; I think.
it agrees with the calcareus folidus, particulis impalpabilibus Wal-
lerii. The appearance of it is filiceous, particularly on being
broken, when it flies, into concavo-convex fplinters, like the
common flint ſtone. Artificial acids are long in making any
impreffion on it, and nothing but the air, affifted by the acid
particles which it commonly carries along with it, is capable,
in a long courſe of years, to render its furface rough, and fo
make vifible the ſmall triturated parts, of which it is compofed.
I collected fome curious fpecimens of the oftracites on the low
iſland of Ulbo, where the fhells of the oysters are in general found
diſpoſed horizontally, one above another, and are neither cal-
cined, nor petrified, notwithſtanding the ages they have lain
there. They still retain their natural brightneſs,, and break in la-
minated ſcales, much in the fame manner as thoſe taken freſh out
of the fea. But theſe fhells are not the fpoils of any inhabitants
of our feas, which produce no ſpecies of oyſter whoſe ſhell is
fo long, or fo deeply channelled: they feem to have been left
there by that remote ocean, whoſe teftaceous bodies formed the
vaſt ſtrata of calcareous ftone, which now compofe the mass of
the Dalmatian ifles; fmall and miferable remains of ancient
oseM bulle lands,
eq
+ Calcareus folidus, particulis impalpabilibus, et indiftinetis. Wall. §. 41. 1.
Lapis calcareus particulis impalpabilibus. Cronstedt. 7.
Calculus, litoralis. Diofcorid. Cæfalp. Encel.
Pierre a chaux compacte. Bomare. 105.
K
[
5 ]
A
lands, torn aſunder by rivers,
corroded by fubterraneous tor--
rents, ſhattered by earthquakes, fubverted by volcanos, and then
overwhelmed by a new fea. I have given to this aggregate the
name of a calcareous ftone, flatey, fpatous alternately compofed
of broken marine fubftances, and of the before mentioned flat ex-
otic foffil oyfter. It is no uncommon thing, to meet with
thick incrustations, and fometimes in large pieces, between the
ftrata of the ftone, and in the fmall cavities which are often found
in it. Theſe reſemble identically the foft ftalactetic marble,
coloured, with variegated ſtreaks; known by our ſculptors by
the name of alabafter of Corfu.
/ A
L
1
1909 **
I
J
I was not able to make any obfervations on the iſland of Sel-
ve; the form of wind, and rain, that forced me to take fhelter
on it, prevented even a ſhort excurfion. But it is probable, that
the ftones of this ifland do not differ from thofe of Ulbo. The
air of both iſlands is healthy; but the water of neither is good;
they are moreover, on all fides, expofed to the winds; having
no eminences to defend them. Selve, fupplies many foamén,
31. & བམྦྷ
and is fufficiently well provided with cattle.
1
13
-- Of the Iſland of ZAPUNTELLO."-
for
J. L
and
*
Soon after I had failed from Selve, we were driven by the violence
of the wind into a creek of the island or Zapuntello, which is
but thinly inhabited, in proportion to its extent; having only
three villages, from one of which it takes its name. This iſland is
alfo called Melada, from another village; and there is no doubt
but it is the Meleta mentioned by Porphyrogenitus * among the
deferts
<
* Coft. Porph. 1. cit.~
1
[ 6 ]
deferts of the fea of Zara. Though I did not ſtay long there, yet
I had an opportunity of obferving fome foffil curiofities. I col-
lected large pieces of a hard kind of ſtone, full of an unknown
fpecies of foffil, belonging to the clafs of the Ortocerati, con-
cerning which, I fhall have occafion to ſpeak more at large
hereafter. But the most curious foffil production of Zapuntel-
lo, is, a calcareous ftone, very white, and almoſt as hard as
marble, although, when broken, it appears farinaceous. Im-
preffions of ſtones, wood, and of marine infects, are feen in it.
It ſhould feem, that during the concretion of this ftone, from a
kind of muddy ſubſtance, various kinds of Madrepores, and o-
ther Corallines, remained buried in it; though the acid, which
diffolved them, left their places empty, and tinged only with a
kind of rufty ochre, yet veftiges enough remain, to afcertain
the bodies that pre-exiſted in the reſpective hollows. The fea
ſand in the creek, is full of microſcopic ſhells, of the nautili,
and cornua ammonis kind, the figures of which, may be ſeen in
the work intitled De conchis minus notis, of the celebrated Janus
Plancus, who had the merit of firſt diſcovering them, in the
fands on our coaft. It would have given me pleaſure to have added
an appendix to the acute obſervations of Plancus, by examining
theſe little animals juſt taken out of the fea, in the aquatick micro-
ſcope, as ſomething more probably might have been diſcovered
about the particular ſtructure of this kind of concha polithalamia,
called corna ammonis; for it is no longer to be doubted, that the
only difference, between the maritime ones obſerved by the natu-
raliſts of Rimini, and thofe foffils of the neighbouring mountains,
conſiſts almoſt intirely in the variety of the fize and proportion.
✦ Jani Planci ariminenfis, &c. de eonchis minus notis. Plate I.
of

A
B
P. 7.
A. Country Woman of the Canal of Zara.
Jac. Leonardis feulp.
[ z I
front
1
*
of the Ifland of UGLIAN.
The firſt place; where I found myſelf at leiſure to make
obſervations, was in the iſland Uglian, in the channel of Zara.
I ftaid there eight days; fometimes examining the ftony hills,
and wandering but to little purpoſe, along the fea coaft, in
fearch of fomething new; and fometimes employing myſelf in
learning a few words of the language, which now became neceſſa-
ry to me. The civility of thoſe poor iſlanders, rendered that fo-
litude, pleafing and agreeable to me, to which I had been led by a
certain melancholy, now become habitual. I wished to remain
a long time there, but the diſagreeable circumftance of being ill
accommodated, obliged me to abandon that thought. The iſland
is fertile enough, and capable of producing any thing, when the
inhabitants make a proper choice of the foil and fituation, agree-
able to the reſpective feeds and plants. But it is a common mif-
fortune to almoft all the islands of the. Illyrian Archipelago, to
want good water, which the poor inhabitants often feel the bad
effects of, in the hot feafon, their crops being frequently def-
troyed, and themſelves obliged to bring their water from dif
tant places, or to ufe what they have, in a kind of pits, ill-
fuited for the purpoſe of preferving it ſweet..
1997
The drefs of the iflanders, under the jurifdiction of Zara, is
very unlike that of our peaſants, reſembling rather that which
is uſed by the common people, on the neighbouring continent.
The women, however, and particularly the young ones, have a
kind of drefs, with ornaments very prettily embroidered. F
thought they merited a drawing. (Plate 1.)
Near the maritime little village of Cale, on this iſland of
Uglian, Count Therry refolved to combat with nature, and to
vanquish her; for, in fpite of the rocky nature of the hill, he has
actually
[ 8 ]
actually made a kitchen garden upon it after the Italian method.
The infects indeed are perpetually at war with him; and not-
withſtanding all his attention, frequently deſtroy the fruits of
his labour. Snails alfo unite themſelves to thefe winged ene-
mies, and I never faw fuch prodigious numbers any where elſe.
Fulvius Hirpinus, who first made nurferies for fnails, in the
Campania Targuinienfis, would have found enough to fatisfy
him. I know not, if on this ifland, they grow to the very
large fize that Pliny fays* the Illyrian fnails did, but it is proba-
ble, that, if they were fuffered to propagate, and live quietly,
their bulk would correſpond with their fecundity.
t
1
On the quality of the ftone that forms the fland of UGLIAN.
Various fpecies of ftone compofe the maſs of Uglian, and the
neighbouring iſlands; they may, however, be reduced princi
pally to the four following. The loweft ftratum is a kind of
marble, which contains an infinite number of extraneous bodies,
of the ceratites kind, and cryſtallized in a white calcareous fpar,
Theſe bodies are not all of the fame fize, nor form, though they
are conftantly fiftulous, and crooked. I have ſome ſpecimens
that correſpond to the defcription of the Helmintholitus Nautili
Orthocera of Linnæus. This celebrated naturalift believes, that
the marine original of this petrification, is without doubt an inha-
bitant of the bottom of the Baltic (from whence however it ne-
ver was taken out alive, nor in its teftaceous ftate) being indu-
ced to think fo, from having found it frequently in the marble
called
* Plin. Lib. IX Cap. 56.
+ Linn. Syft. Nat. T. III. p. 162. ed. 1768. Habitat fine dubio in abyffo
maris Balthici deperditus, petrificatus nobis, fequentiffimus in marmore ftratario
Lec.
}
[ 9 ]
called by him ſtratario, becauſe it is ufed in paving the roads
in many provinces adjacent to that fea. It ſhould feem, that
this learned man had forgot the many fpecies of exotic plants,
marine bodies, and bones of terreſtrial animals, which are fre-
quently found petrified in the bowels of the mountains of Europe,
though never feen in their natural ftate in our feas. I can ven-
ture to affirm, that the Orthoceratites live not in the Adriatick,
though they are found petrified in marble, on the islands, and
on the continent of Dalmatia. The coral fishers have ſcoured
the bottom fufficiently, to convince us, that no fpecies of liv-
ing creatures, much propagated, inhabite there at preſent, but
whofe individuals are well known to us. I have had drawings
made of feveral pieces of this marble, in which the Orthoceratites-
appear prominent, and I will deſcribe them more minutely, when.
I ſpeak of the little iſland, on which I collected the moſt intereſt-
ing fpecimens. Your Lordship. will allow, that an affertion
procul dubio, not fupported by any fact, but, on the contrary,
pofitively contradicted, may permit me, to take fome liberty
with this celebrated author, whofe talents, and merit, however,
are, by all lovers of natural hiſtory, deſervedly held in the higheft.
veneration.
The ſecond ſpecies of Uglian marble, is analogous to the fof-
fil oyſter ſtone of Ulbo, and contains great quantities of Oftra-
cites well preſerved, and very diſtinguiſhable, but not eaſily ſe-
parated from the fubftance of the ftone in which they lie; they
are particularly viſible on the furface of ſuch pieces of marble,
as have been long expofed to the action of the air, and rain. Not
only the firſt ſpecies, compofed of Orthoceratite, but alſo the
other, containing the foffil oyfters, is of a white colour; but
they are both rough, or of a coarſe grain, and untractable to the-
chifel,..
C.
[ 10 ]
chifel, unleſs for ordinary works. The third fort is much better
calculated for workmanſhip, being very compact and folid, and
'
ふ
​though it equally contains marine bodies, yet they are ſo inti-
1) ao Hy
Thet
eler 030061621
mately incorporated with the ftony fubftance, that they cannot by
any means be feparated from it, making as it were one uniform
mafs.
ព
}}
>
}
>
The tops of the hills of Uglian, are of a compact coliareous
ftone, of impalpable parts; a fort of marble, Iftrian, Dalmatian,
or Apennine, which ever you pleaſe to call it; for the fame ſub-
ftance defcribed above, as prevailing in Ulbo, extends itfelf
over all the heights of theſe provinces, as well as of Italy, in-
terchangeably with the breccia. Donati, defcribing it with leſs
exactneſs than Linnæus, calls it, opaque marble, of an uniform
grain, and whitiſh colour; and believed it was the marmor Tragu-
rienſe of the ancients; though I know not upon what foun-
dation.
76 256
< T
الى
US
1.
I have ſeen on this iſland, for the firſt time, a curious fpecies
of kermes (if ſo it may be called, or if it is not rather a new ge-
nus) growing upon a fig-tree; and not remembering to have
met with a deſcription or figure of it by any author, among the
claffical books on infects, I got a drawing of it. This in-
fect differs very much from the faux-puceron deſcribed by Reau-
mur, and which I have never been able to ſee on the fig-trees of
Dalmatia. Plate I. fig. A, is the little fig branch to which the
galls adhere, if fo I may name theſe very fingular Chryfalis.
Nor is this one of the fulleft, for fome trees have their leffer
branches ſo entirely covered, that they look like the confluent
ſmall-pox, full of puftules, one upon another. The figure B
ſhews the gall grown fomewhat larger; and it is certainly one
of
the
[ 11 ]
the moſt curious productions, that is to be met with in this
branch of natural hiftory. Its cupola is ftriated, but fo mi-
nutely, that it lofes nothing of its fmoothnefs, when obferved
only by the naked eye. The top of the cupola is conftantly a-
dorned with a papilla, not unlike thofe in which the fpines of
the Echinus are fixed. The lower part, about the baſe, is
furrounded by eight other papilla, very like that above, and
which correſpond to as many cramps, or holders, by which
the under-parts of the little animal are faftned to the bark.
The fize of theſe galls is unequal; fome remain ſmall, and
ftunted; probably becauſe the animals, from which they pro-
ceed, faftened themselves too near others, who had already
fucked out the milk from the bark, from whence their nouriſh-
ment and growth ſeem to be derived. There is no doubt, but
that the milky humour of the fig-tree, elaborated through the
veffels of theſe little animals, occafions the daily growth of the
galls; which is the more evident, becauſe, if, by any exter-
nal accident, any part is torn away, it is foon reproduced, as is
obferved of the ſhells of fnails, &c. This particularity alone ap-
pears fufficient to conftitute a new genus.
The fubftance of
this animal's fhell, or cover, is a kind of wax, or lac, greatly
*
ana-
1
* Several writers of reputation, among whom are Garzia ab Horto, Bontius,
Montanus, Amatus, Lufitanus, and Tavernier, have afferted, that the lac of
China, Japan, and Pegu, is extracted by winged ants, from a tree, which they
call Tanofki, or Namra. And this may be partly, if not altogether truc, as a
fmaller and weaker infect can extract a gum from the fig-tree. Cleyer, who was
at Nangaſaki, in 1685, wrote to Mentzel, that this was but a fable, and that
the lac was extracted by incifion only; yet perhaps he had not been able to inform
himſelf fufficiently. V. Garzia ab Horto hift. arom. 1. 1. c. 8. Jacobi Bontii
Medic. Ind. Arnoldi Montani Hıſft. Legat, Batav. Soc. Ind. Orient. ad Imp. Japan.
Amati Lufitani in Diofcorid. 1. 1. Tavernier. P. 2. 1, 20
[12]
analogous to the dried milk of the tree, on which it has its birth
,
:
animal could ffòt be diſtinguiſh-
and increaſe. The parts of the
ed, when I obferved it the first time oh the fland of Uglian,
on the¹iffahd'
and collected a good quantity. Afterwards, on examining the
galls, I found, in each of them, a flimy ſubſtance, of a bloody
colour, which tinged the fingers with a very beautiful red. I
carried a parcel to Zara, in the month of June, and from a
fmall part of it only, I extracted, by fimple decoction, à tena-
cious matter, of a pale red colour: the water, in which the
galls were boiled, remained tinged with a yellowish red.
4
7
Having kept by me ſeveral of theſe galls, carefully collected,
in order to protect the animals concealed within them, I acci-
dently let them remain in a box, for ſeveral days, without look-
ing at them; and on opening it, I was fürprized to obſerve in-
numerable red granules, which, when examined by the micro-
ſcope, appeared plainly to be eggs, of an oblong form, much
refembling the oval bags of filk-worms. No veftiges of any
worm, or fly appeared in the box, and had there been any,
they could not poffibly have efcaped, as it was nicely fcrewed.
together. I laid it by again, and opening it five or fix days after,
I faw an innumerable fwarm of little red animals, which, at
firſt, appeared to have white wings; but, on examining them
with the microſcope, I plainly diſcovered them to be apteri,
with fix feet, and not yet entirely free from the covering of the
egg, which they carried on their back, reſembling wings raiſed
up, and united. I fhut them up in their priſon again, and in
a few days they died of hunger. The fig-trees about Zara, not
being peopled with thefe infects, I was therefore obliged to re-
nounce my deſire of examing them further.
Some
[ 13 ]
t
10.
Some time after, however, I found them again on the iſland
of Brazza, and was not a little embaraffed about a worm, which
was lodged in femeral of the galls, or chryfalis; but, on further
confideration, I am inclined to believe this worm is rather an
ufurper, than a natural, inhabitant of the gall iffelf, and I was
the more confirmed in this opinion, on obferving many of the
red infects, wandering about upon the branches, and foon after
›becoming almoſt infenfible and adherent to the bark. I propofe
to examine them again attentively, if I light upon them in a
proper feafon and am the more defirous of doing it, becaufe
theſe red eggs bear a near refemblance to the kermes uſed in dy-
ing. I am alfo not without hopes, that, by collecting, and
laying them in a heap, before the maggots have life, or killing
them inmediately after, a paſte may be had of fome ufe. Quin-
queranus, wrote a hundred and eighty years ago, fome parti-
culars relative to the kermes, which feem to agree very well
with this new grain of the fig-tree. *
1
+
{
This malady attending the fig-trees, is neither very ancient,
nor has it been conftantly experienced in the iſlands, and on the
ſea coſt of Dalmatia; for when the cold in winter, happens
to be more intenſe than ufual, the country is almoſt totally
freed, for that year from thefe troubleſome infects, which cer-
tainly
* Has autem baccas quando vident in vermiculos abire velle illos aceto, vel aqua
frigidiſſima ex puteo adfpergunt, et in loco tepido fupra fornacem, feu in fole iente ex-
ficcant, donec moriantur. Aliquando animalcula iſta à veficulis relictis fegregant, ´et
extremitatibus digitorum leniter comprehendendo in pilam, feu maſſam rotundam ef-
formant, quæ multo pretiofior eft granis, et ideo majori pretio a mercatoribus emitur.
Quinqueran. ap. Ceftonium in Ep. MSS. ad Vallifnerium feniorem. Here it
ought to be remarked, that in thofe times, the words vermis and vermiculus,
were frequently uſed to denote any infect whatever.
[ 14 ]
tainly do great damage to the province, where figs form a confidera-
ble article of commerce. The trees covered with thefe infects, bear
infipid, and difagreeable fruit; not only the leaves, and branches,
but the figs themſelves are cloathed with this new generation,
which becomes immoveable, and is actually buried under its coat
of lac.
The trees having fuffered this peft, for two or three years
fucceffively, the bark grows black, and rotten, and falls off
from the branches, which alfo rot, in their turn, appearing
fqualid, even in the end of fpring; and at length, this rotten-
nefs diffufing itſelf from the extremities, to the principal
branches, the trunk itſelf decays, and dies.
Of the City of ZARA.
Zara, called Jadera by the Latins, and Diadora in the later
times, was once the capital of Liburnia, that is, of the great
peninfula, which runs out into the fea, between the two rivers
Tedanius, and Titius; now known by the names of Zermagna,
and Kerka; and fince the fall of the Roman Empire, it is be-
come the capital of a more extenfive province. Time, that has
ſcarcely left any traces of the greateft part of the Liburnian cities,
has nevertheleſs ſpared this, which actually enjoys all the ſplen-
dor, that a provincial city can well expect; and feems rather to
have gained, than loft, by the courfe of ages. The inhabitants
of Zara, are as civilized as any of the cities of Italy; and in
every age, it has produced men diftinguiſhed for learning. Fe-
derico Grifogono, who lived about the middle of the fixteenth-
century, published a difcourfe on the cauſes of the flux, and re-
flux of the ſea, which he attributed to the preffion of the fun,
and moon. Gian-Paolo Gallucci of Salo, infèrted the whole of
this
{
[ 15 ]
this fmall treatiſe in his work, entitled, Theatrum mundi et tem-
poris, tranſcribing it from the medical book in which the author
had placed it. Simon Gliubavaz, a gentleman of Zara, left many
valuable papers, tending to illuftrate his country, and the ample
territory which furrounds it. There is alfo a fmall manuſcript
treatiſe of that learned man, which explains all the ancient in-
ſcriptions diſcovered at Zara, to the middle of the ſeventeenth
century. Amongst the prefent living ornaments of this capital,
Count Gregorio Stratico, and Signor Domenico Balio, defèrve to
be particularly mentioned; the firft, for politenefs, and other
amiable qualities; and the other, for his modefty and reſerve,
though he is courteous to ftrangers, and qualified, as well as
diſpoſed, to be uſeful to them. Few only, and miſerable rẹ-
mains of the Roman fabricks, which once adorned it, are now
to be feen; having been deftroyed, chiefly to build the modern
fortifications. Your Lordship will easily find in the claffical
collections, the many infcriptions, that were preſerved here,
till the beginning of the prefent age; and which fhew, that
this city, and colony, was particularly favoured by many of the
Roman Emperors, and chiefly by Auguſtus, and the good Tra-
jan. Hence the firſt merited the title of Father of the Jadertinė
Colony; of which fufficient teftimony ſtill remains, in one of
the faid infcriptions. The fecond caufed an aqueduct to be built,
or at leaſt reſtored, which brought water to the city from a
great diſtance, as alfo appears by the fragment of another in-
fcription, ftill exifting in the city.
Dr. Antonio Danieli, phyſician at Zara, received me with
great hofpitality into his elegant houſe, which is adorned with
many pieces of ancient fculpture. Among others, there are
four valuable coloffal ſtatues of faline marble, that were re-
moved
་
X
[ 16 ]
moved from the ruins of the neighbouring city of Nona, and`
tranſported to Zara, at the expence of this zealous lover of an-
tiquity. He alfò poffeffes feveral ancient infcriptions on ſtone,
brought from various parts of Dalmatia, among which, is that
valuable one mentioned by Spon, as being then in the houſe of
Signori Tommafoni; it lay hid ever fince the year 1675, under
a covering of plafter, and being difcovered by Dr. Danieli, was
by him publiſhed, in confequence of the mention made of it by
the French traveller. *
I further obferved, among the faid infcriptions, three Greek
tables, which were brought from the iſland of Liffa, and
feem to belong to fome Pfephifma, being fragments of fubfcrip- -
tions of fenators, My good friend and hoft, has likewife a
large collection of ancient Roman coins, befides many Greek.
ones, in excellent prefervation.
'
I faw at Zara, an hermaphrodite foal, fingularized by that:
monstrous marring of the fexual parts,. well known to anato-.
mifts, and commonly called hermaphroditifm. If this animal
had been produced at Paris, the learned would probably have-
determined its place among the Stallions, as a male, according
to the curious decifion, which obliged the Drouart to wear the
dreſs of a man becauſe the virile ſex predominated in her. This
beast'.
* Spon voiages, vol. I. the infcription is at the end of the 3d vol.
+ Michel Anne Drouart who was at Vènice in 1769, and expofed to view for
money, was particularly examined by the celebrated profeffor Caldani, of the
univerſity of Padoua, and understood to be a monstrous loathſome woman; al-
though M. Morand, the King of France's furgeon, and a member of the aca-
demy of fciences, had declared her an hermaphrodite, in whom the virile fex
predominated. And in confequence of this curious decifion, the archiepifcopal
chancery,
[ 17 ]
beaft (alſo reſembling the Drouart in the organs of generation)
though of a good fize, and well made, was fold at a very low
price, by a Morlacco, in whofe houſe it was foaled; to avert
the bad omen, which that fuperftitious nation draws from the
birth, or appearance of monſters.
The fea gains ground on the City of Zara continually; and if
this was not ſufficiently confirmed by the high tides, that over-
flow feveral places, which, when built, were certainly intended
to be out of their reach; the old pavements of the ftreets, which
actually lie below the ordinary level of the fea, are certainly
fufficient proofs of it, as well as the many noble fabricks, dif-
covered only a few years ago, in cleaning, and deepening that
part of the harbour, which they call the Mandraubis. The va-
rious circumſtances that occur along the coaſts of the Adriatick,
tending to prove the gradual elevation of the waters, leave us no
room to doubt the truth of it. The fea conftantly pervades
on this coaſt, notwithſtanding the partial increaſe of the land,
by the quantities of mud-and fand, depoſed at the mouths of ri-
vers: And whether the coafts of our gulph be marſhy, fandy,
mountainous, or ftony, there are always found ruins of ancient
fabrics now fubmerfed by the fea: Proofs are alſo daily diſcover-
ed, that its level actually rifes. Whether this proceeds from the
quantity of ſtones, and earth waſhed down into it from the
mountains, or from whatever other cauſe, may be a matter of con-
jecture to the curious. Thoſe who have made repeated obſerva-
tions on this ſubject, cannot therefore eafily admit the opinion
(once
D
chancery ordered her, by a precife decree, to drefs in man's cloaths. Any one
may read M. Morand's memorial, among thofe of the academy, and be fcanda-
lized by it.
[ 18 ]
(once in vogue) of Browallius, and others, that the apparent riſe
of the waters, is to be deduced from the fubfidence of the land.
The Venetians are particularly enabled to judge of the reaſon-·
ableness of this fyftem, by comparing and examining the changes
in and about their city.
T
Of the City and District of Nona.
The ruins of Nona, which ought to furniſh abundant mate-
rials, to gratify the curiofity of antiquaries, are fo buried, by
repeated devaſtations, to which that unhappy city has been ex-
pofed, that rarely any veftige of them appears above ground,
I went thither, in hopes of finding fomething worthy of notice,
but was diſappointed. Nothing is to be feen, that indicates
the grandeur of the Roman times; neither are there any
remains of barbarous magnificence, to put one in mind of
the ages in which the kings of the Croat Slavi, had their refi-
dence there. It lies on a ſmall iſland, furrounded by a harbour,
which, in former times, was capable of receiving large ſhips;
but is now become a fetid pool, by means of a little muddy
river that falls into it, after a courſe of about fix miles, thro'
the rich abandoned fields of that diſtrict. The ancient inhabi-
tants, turned this water into an other channel, and made it run
through the valley of Drafnich, into the fea; and the remains
of the bank raiſed by them for that purpoſe, are ftill to be feen.
Notwithstanding, however, the depopulation of this diſtrict,
and the dreary fituation of Nona in particular, the new inhabi-
tants have not loft courage; and animated by the privileges
granted to them by this moft ferene republick, are endeavouring
to bring the population and agriculture once more into a flour-
iſhing ſtate. Proper drains for the water, would not only ren→
der
[ 19 ]
der that rich territory habitable, but moreover very fertile; and
the brackish marſh, that furrounds the walls of Nona, is well
calculated to ſupply a confiderable quantity of fiſh, eſpecially
eels. The government, generously granted the inveftiture to
private perfons, who already draw no inconfiderable advantage
from the fiſhing; and did they but adopt better methods, they
might every year, falt many thouſands of eels, which would
greatly anſwer our internal commerce, and fave, at leaſt, a part
of the money, that goes out of the country for foreign ſalt fiſh.
'To the left of the city of Nona, the walls of fome ancient rui-
nous buildings appear; which probably in ancient times, were fi-
tuated on the main land, though now furrounded by water. The
ſea forms a narrow channel in this place, which is eaſily ford-
able, and, at low water, the ſmalleſt boat can fcarcely pafs. The
neighbouring village, corruptly called by the Morlauhi, its in-
habitants, Privlaca, and by thofe of Zara, Brevilacqua, feems
to have taken its name from the ford, which the Latins uſed
to call brevia
aquæ. This divides the diftrict of Nona, from
the contiguous iſland of Puntadura. The coaft of Brevilacqua
is very high, and cut perpendicularly in fuch a manner, as
diſcovers very diſtinctly the various ſtrata of the ſubſtance, where-
of they are compofed. Theſe Strata, are moſtly ſandy or gra-
velly, and feem manifeftly the depofitions of fome ancient
river, which is now no longer feen. Some of theſe Strata, and
eſpecially the loweſt, by the filtration of the water, are har-
dened into ſtone, forming pieces of trunks as it were, of Ofteo-
colla, perpendicularly ranged together. In fome parts of this
coaſt, juſt above the furface of the water, the marble appears,
that forms the baſe of the fluviatile ftrata. The fame kind of
marble is alſo ſeen, further within land, and probably formed
prominences, before the lower lands were filled up, and levelled
by
[ 20 ]
*
by the turbid depofitions of the waters. The lapides lenti-
culares, and other fimilar foffils are alfo feen, intimately united
with the maſs of marble. In going from Zara to Nona on horſe-
back, I obſerved a curious difpofition of the foil, which the
fhrubs, wherewith that tract of country is naturally covered, for
thirteen miles in length, fecm in great meaſure, to have made.
From Zará, to the village of Coffino, the fields are ftony, yet ca-
pable of bearing vines, and corn; but they are laid out
in a meadow ground, and are very ill kept. A mile beyond
Coffino, there is a wood of the Sabina fruticofa, called in Illy-
rian gluhi fmrich, or deaf Juniper; no other ſhrub is to be ſeen.
After a mile of the Sabina, begin the Lentici, which occupy but
a fhort ſpace: then the Phylirea, Erica, Arbutus, and fmaller
Ilex, live in common fociety together. To theſe fucceed the Ju-
nipers; and laftly, near Nona, the Paliurus, called Draca by
the inhabitants, reigns alone. I could not perceive any re-
markable difference, in the reſpective foils occupied by theſe va-
rious families of fhrubs. The Ilex cocci glandifera, of the Bo-
taniſts, is very frequent along the coaft; and in the iſlands
of Dalmatia; but, notwithſtanding all the diligence I uſed, I
could not find the Kermes. It would be a laudable experiment,
to endeavour to ſettle here, the race of this precious infect, get-
ting it from the Levant Iflands, where it is found naturally.
There is the greateſt reaſon to hope, that, in a ſhort time, it
might become a produce of confequence to Dalmatia.
*
7
of
From the Greek gara, pungo. Many other botanic words in the Illyrian
language, have a near affinity to the Greek, fuch as trava, herb grafs, deaßus
dervo, wood, deus.
[ 21 ] }
Of the District of ZARA.
The large province, which in our maps is called the Territory
of Zara, ftill retains its ancient name of Kotar, which the inha-
bitants of the country conftantly give it. This tract of country
is generally reckoned unhealthy in the fummer: but I have vi-
fited a good part of it with impunity, and ſhould have extended
my obſervations further, if, through the heat, and fatigue, my
drafsman had not contracted an obſtinate agueiſh fever. This
diſappointment alfo prevented my bringing into Italy, a much
greater number of drawings, and other curiofities. The line
of my travels, through the territory of Zara, was by the towns
of San. Filippo and Giacomo, Biograd (called alfo Zaravec-
chia) and Pacoftiane, on the coaft; Vrana, on the lake of the
fame name, Ceragne, Priftegh, Benwvaz, Peruffich, Podgraie,
Coſlovaz, Stancovzi, Ofttrovizza, Bribir, Morpolazza, Bagnevaz,
and Radaffinovich within land.
TRAJAN'S AQUEDUCT.
I faw at San. Filippo and Giacomo, the veſtiges of an Aque-
duct, either built, or repaired, by the Emperor Trajan; and
followed the tract of theſe veftiges, for a confiderable way, on
either fide. Hence I can pofitively affirm, that the Dalmatian
hiſtorians, particularly, Simon Gliubavaz, whoſe manuſcript
lies before me, and Giavanni Lucio, in his celebrated work,
concerning the Kingdom of Dalmatia, and Croatia, were groſs-
ly miſtaken, when they wrote, that Trajan brought water to
Zara, from the river Fizio, or Kerka, taking it from the caf-
cade of Scardona, called in the language of the country, Skra-
dincki flap;
[ 22 ]
I
wrote.
dincki-flap ;* in the neighbourhood of which, fome trifling
ruins of aqueducts are ftill to be feen. But they are fure-
ly excufable, if, through eagerness to do honour to their
native country, they have afcribed to Trajan, a merit thirty
times greater than he really had, in either building, or re-
pairing this aqueduct; as they were certainly unacquainted
with the country that lies between Skradincki-flap, and the fea
coaft of Zara, for the Turks were in poffeffion of it, when they
The remains of the aqueduct are firſt ſeen, at a little-
diſtance from the walls of Zara, along the fea fide, towards the
village of San. Caffano; then through the wood of Tuftiza, fas
far as the Torrette, where they ſerve as a foot-path to travellers ;:
and laftly at San. Filippo and Giacomo ; and further on, at Za-
ravecchia, where their traces are loft, but feem to have been di-
rected to the neighbouring river of Kakma, which is diftant from
Skradincki-flap, thirty miles at leaſt, in a right line. The moun-
tains that riſe between that place, and Zaravecchia, are much
higher than the caſcade of the river, and therefore it would have-
been impoffible to convey water from thence. They are alſo di-
vided by large valleys, fo that there ought to appear frequent re-
mains of arches, fuppofing the waters of the Tizio could have
been brought by fuch a road: Now there is not a fingle veftige.
of an aqueduct to be feen, within the compafs of thirty miles,,
that can juſtify this inconfiderate affertion of Lucio and Gliubavaz,.
and the vulgar opinion. The infcription which I mentioned be-
fore, neither fays, nor gives ground to gueſs from whence the:
water conveyed by Trajan was brought..
BIOGRADA
* Scardonicus lapfus,
[ 23 ]
1
*
BIOGRAD, or ALBA MARITIMA.
Biograd, now a poor village on the fea-fide, known by us,
and marked in the maps, by the name of Zaravecchia, given to
it in the times of ignorance, was formerly a confiderable city.
The fituation, diftances, and fome infcriptions that have been
found, feem to indicate, that Blandona was fituated near this
ſpot, but by no means, the ancient Fadera, as Cellarius ima-
gined. It is, however, certain, that in the middle times,
this was a place of conſequence, by the frequent refidence, and
coronation of ſeveral kings of Croatia, and particularly of Cre-
fimir, who founded a monaftery there, in 1059. Biograd is
called in the records of thoſe times, Alba maritima and by Por-
phyrogenitus, Belgrado, according to the cuſtom of the Slavi,
who frequently called the cities, where their princes refided, by
that name. It had the title of bishoprick, which was tranf-
ferred to Scardona, when the doge Ordelafo Faliero cauſed it to
be demoliſhed, in the heat of the war with the Hungarians.
From theſe ruins, in the courſe of years, a village aroſe, which
became peopled by a fet of men, who making rapine and vio-
lence their business, merited the indignation of government,
and it was levelled with the ground, in the laſt age. It is now
inhabited
*
Poftquam Jadera eft, 'Ixdega xoλwna Ptolomeo, et Plinio Colonia Jadera, memora-
ta etiam Mel. lib. 2. c. 3. Hodie vocatur locus Zara Vecchia, ultra Zaram Novam,
vifendus cum ruderibus noftræ Jadera. Cellar. Notil. Orb. Antiqui. 1. 2. c. 8.
+ Bielograd, or Belograd, or Biograd, fignifies white city. Bonfinius Dec. 1.
lib, vi. mentions Belgrado, among the maritime cities of Dalmatia, deftroyed
by Attila; though it ſhould ſeem, that before the irruption of the Huns, the
city ought not to be called by the name it bore in after ages. But if it actually
bore that name, it would become a new proof of the antiquity of the Sclavonian
language in Illyrium,
}
[ 24 ]
inhabited by a few poor people; though it has a large, and fe-
cure harbour, on the banks of which I collected fome fand, full
of microſcopic ſhells. The foil in that neighbourhood, along
the ſhore, is ftony, but not bad; the ſtones are of the marble
kind. Without the harbour of Biograd, there is a knot of if-
lands, which uſed to ſerve as a place of refuge to the inhabitants
of the adjoining coaft, during the incurfions of the Turks.
Not far from Biograd, is Pacoftiane, a poor place, fituated
on the ifthmus, which divides the fea, from the lake of Vrana.
Its few unhealthy inhabitants, feel the effects of this neigh-
bourhood; for not being able to cultivate their own un-
grateful littoral foil, they are induced to pass over the
marth in little boats, to avail themfelves of the more fertile
banks, on the oppofite fide of the lake, where the air is
remarkably bad. The common food of theſe people, is the
fiſh of the lake, and particularly eels, which they eat at all
times, even in the ſeaſon when they are very unwholeſome.
They uſe a fingular method of catching them, in their ſeaſon
of propagation, when the eels crowd together in multitudes:
two men, each holding the end of a thick cord, wade along
in the moſt ſhallow parts of the lake, and ftriking them
with the rope, kill à number, and difperfe the reft; they then
collect the dead, and eat them.
The Castle of Vrana.
Vrana, which gives name to the lake, and is built on the
extremity of it, towards the North, was an important place in
former times, and belonged to the Templars. It was the refi-
dence of a Grand Prior, whoſe power encreaſed to ſuch a degree,
that
[ 25 ]
1
that it fometimes preponderated even in the affairs of the king-
dom. Gianco of Polifna, one of thoſe Grand Priors, in 1385,
puſhed his facrilegious temerity, fo far, as to make his own So-
vereign Elizabeth, widow of Lewis, King of Hungary, and her
daughter Mary, his prifoners; neither did this fatisfy him, for
he cauſed the mother to be drowned in a river. In the begin-
ning of the fame century, Philip the Bel, though he could not
make the Templars in France confefs themſelves guilty of any
criminal offence, nevertheleſs exterminated them by fire and
fword; while their fucceffors in Hungary and Dalmatia, con-
victed of the before-mentioned execrable crime, fuffered, in a
manner, no puniſhment at all; the revenge, that Sigifmund,
huſband of Queen Mary, chofe to take, being merely confined
to the perſon of the Grand Prior.
This caftle, which at the time of its foundation, was named
Brana, or Vrana, by way of dignity, is now a frightful heap of
ruins, reduced to that ſtate by the Venetians. Some writers have
thought that Blandona was anciently feated there; but no vef-
tige of Roman antiquity is to be ſeen about theſe walls, and'ru-
ined, uninhabited towers. I fearched with great diligence,
among the ſtones, for inſcriptions, but in vain, and was happy
at laſt to get from among
among them, without any accident.
The Han, that ſtands near theſe ancient walls, is well worthy
of obſervation, although it is alfo now in a ruinous ftate, being
abandoned to the barbarity of the Morlauhi, who inhabit
the neigbouring lands, and carry off whatever materials fuit
them, to be employed in their wretched cottages. The foun-
dation of Hans, or Caravanferas, do great honour to the Turk-
iſh nation, and they are very numerous throughout that Empire.
E
This
[
26 ]
$
{
This near Vrana, has been raiſed at a confiderable expence the
front of it is about 150 feet, and its depth 175: it is all built
of marble, well polifhed, and connected; and the pieces ſeem
to have been brought thither, from the ruins of fome ancient
Roman fabrick; at leaſt, on examing them, there is reafon to
think fo. The body of the Han is divided into two large courts,
furrounded by neat decorated chambers, and well contrived
galleries: the architecture of the gates, is in a bad Turkiſh
taſte, inclining to the Gothick. A part of the walls, and floors
of this building, have been demolished through a foolish avi-
dity in fearch for treaſures.
The name of Vrana is now transferred to a wretched village,
that ſtands about a mile from the ruins of the caſtle, in the very
place where an eminent Turk of the laſt age, called Hali-Beg,
had his gardens; and the fqualid habitation of the Curate of
the pariſh, ſtill goes by the name of Hali-Beg's gardens.
A manuſcript of Gliubavaz, now in my poffeffion, though
belonging to the learned Count Stratico, of Zara, contains a
deſcription of the water-works in thefe gardens, and of the then
well cultivated adjacent fields. What changes fince that period!
the gardens of Hali-Beg are reduced to heaps of rubbiſh; and the
waters that were formerly conducted by art, to adorn and refreſh
them, now run in diforderly ftreams, mixing with many
others, which, a hundred years ago, were alfo formed into
artificial channels, and conveyed into the lake.
The lake of Vrana is more famous, and better known at Ve-
nice, than any other in Dalmatia, not only on account of its con-
fiderable extent, of twelve miles, but from a project formed
by
[ 27 ]
by a private perſon, and partly put in execution, to cut a paſ-
fage, by which the water might be diſcharged into the fea.
The late celebrated mathematician Zendrini, was confulted about
the poffibility of ſuch a drain, but not having been on the ſpot,
and truſting to the levels taken by fome unſkilful Engineer, he
thought there was no other difficulty, but that of the expence,
in cutting, to a confiderable depth, an ifthmus of folid marble,
for half a mile long. The projector was not difcouraged by the
expence, but on the contrary, animated by the clemency of the
government, undertook, and actually made a kind of ſketch of
the work, by opening a channel, which has fince, however, re-
mained imperfect and abandoned, theſe many years; and pro-
bably, will ere long, be filled up again. The intent of this outlet
was to drain, and, if poffible, render fit for cultivation, about
ten thouſand acres of land which had hitherto been always
covered with water.
I went to fee this arduous undertaking for the firſt time, in
company with the Lord Biſhop of Derry; and we foon found,
that, whatever expence or labour could be beſtowed upon it, would
prove in vain; the project being phyfically impoffible, and illu-
fory. It is fufficient to obferve the fea fhore, to be convinced
of this truth; for the water of the lake, making its way through
the fubterraneous divifions of the marble ftrata, actually runs
into the ſea, of its own accord, during the time of low water,
and is only hindered from taking this courſe, when the tide
flows, or is on a level with the lake. It is evident, therefore,
from this fimple obſervation, that whatever paffage could be
opened, the waters of the lake would never diſcharge themſelves
into the ſea, with any great, or permanent utility to the inun-
dated lands; and that, fuppoſing a ſuitable communication was
opened,
[ 28 ]
opened, the only confequence would be, to render them fub-
ject to a more fenfible alteration of the flux, and reflux of the
fea.
It is certain, that the gradual riſe of the level of our fea (whe-
ther it proceeds from a depreffion of the ground, as is the opi-
nion of fome, or whether it ought rather to be derived from
fome more univerſal cauſe, as I am apt to think) will always
diminish the diſcharge of the waters, and confequently enlarge
the extent of the lake, though imperceptibly, from year to year;
and in the ſpace of fifty years, the increaſe will appear very evi-
dent. The valuable papers of Gliubavaz fhew, that the lake of
Vrana was quite freſh till the year 1630; and it is the opi-
nion of this writer, that certain fubterraneous paffages were
opened by an earthquake, from whence proceeded a communi-
cation of waters, whereby alfo fishes found their way. But
whoever has made any diligent obfervations along the fhores, and
weft of the Adriatick, and knows the nature of the marble ftra-
ta in Maritime Dalmatia, muſt be fenfible, that this change
could hardly be derived from an accidental caufe, fuch as an
earthquake, but from fomething more durable and progreffive,
as the rife of the level of the fea; in which caſe, the undertak-
ing before deſcribed, muſt appear ridiculous.
I do not, however, think it impoffible, to recover many
hundred acres from the inundation, which left to itſelf, will be
daily ſpreading, and will reduce the beſt lands near the lake to a
marſh, and, at the fame time, render the air of the neighbour-
hood very unwholefome. The method which I would propoſe
is this: To confine to their ancient channel the waters of Smo-
covich, which, probably, were conveyed to the fea. Alſo to re-
Atrain,
[ 29 ]
ftrain, within fome bounds, thoſe which defcend from the hills,
near the village of Vrana; I mean, the ftream of Scorobich,
and the larger water of Biba, both which run in the fame direc-
tion. It would likewiſe be expedient to turn the waters of Ri-
cina, and Pecchina, a long the ſkirts of the valley, inſtead of ſuf-
fering them to take their prefent diforderly courfe into the lake,
and ſo producing a real evil, when they might be uſefully em-
ployed in watering the circumjacent fields, that are parched by
heat. It would be further neceffary, to cut deep trenches and
ditches, that the water may have fome courfe through the
marſhes; and to raiſe banks, where needful, to defend the lower
grounds. This is the true and only way to draw advantage from
theſe plains, now under water; and to render the paffage, al-
ready cut, perhaps, not altogether uſeleſs; for at preſent, it
ſerves no other purpoſe, but to facilitate a little the diſcharge of
the water after-immoderate falls of rain.
After all, in whatever ſtate this lake is, the greateſt advantage
that can be drawn from it is by fiſhing. Eels, which are found
there in vaſt quanties, and are at preſent left to the aukward me-
thod of theſe fishermen, would fupply our internal commerce
with a confiderable number of barrels, if they were ſkilfully
caught and fecured in Lavorieri, * and from thence taken out,
and falted, or pickled at the proper ſeaſons. One of the fiſhing
boats, employed in catching the eels in our Lagunes, might be
fent thither, to teach the inhabitants of Pecoſtiane, and the
neigh-
* Lavorieri is a term uſed in the Lagunes of Venice, and Comacchio, and fig-
nifies, certain encloſures made with reeds, and fo contrived, that the eels, when
once within them, cannot find the way out. The art of Lavorieri, which was
once proper to the Lagunes of the Adriatick, is now introduced with equal fuc-
cefs in other parts.
[ 30 ]
<
neighbouring places, a better method. It is certain, that no
ſmall ſum of money goes out of this ſtate yearly, to Comacchio,
for falted and pickled eels; why do we not, therefore, rather
avail ourſelves of the lakes and fens within the ſtate? One of
the principal objects of my obfervations along the coafts of Dal-
matia, was the fishing; for without doubt, whatever tends to
put this article on a better footing, or to introduce it, where it
is not fuitably exercifed, becomes a fource of national economy
and intereft. And as the lake of Vrana is the largeſt of all thoſe
that are near the fea, it ſeems to merit the particular attention of
our magiſtrates, who prefide over the trade, cultivation, and
increaſe of the products within our ſtate.
The inhabitants of this country, and, indeed, the Morlacchi
in general, have a mortal averfion to frogs, and even in the
times of famine (which are but too frequent, through the ill ma-
nagement of agriculture, and fome conftitutional defects) a true
Morlack will rather die of hunger, than eat a frog: when I
afked the Curate of Vrana, why he did not rather eat frogs than
bad cheeſe, he was much offended, and told me, that a rafcally
Morlack fometimes carried them to the market of Zara, but had
not yet gone fo far as to eat them; adding, that this fellow was
the reproach of the village.
On the Petrefactions of CERAGNE, BENCOVAZ, and PODLUK.
I found in the woods, near Ceragne, large aggregates of Turbi-
nites cemented in the common Dalmatian marble, and not far
from them, the fame fpecies of Ortoceratites that I had met with
before at Uglian. There are alfo lenticular ftones under the
fort of Bencovaz; and again, at a hamlet near Podluk, in as per-
fect
[ 31 ]
fect preſervation as thofe of Montevaile in the Vicentine terri-
tory, and of S. Giovanni Ilarione, which are remarkably fine.
Between the fort of Bencovaz, and the wood of Cucagl, there is
a ſmall extent of hills, moſtly compoſed of a blueiſh marine clay,
and in ſome parts of a very white marly earth. In the apertures
made by the torrents, I collected fome fcattered marine bodies,
ſome of which were patous nuclei of the Turbinites, of a very
lucid yellow golden colour. In general, the ftone of which the
hills of that neighbourhood are compofed, reſembles greatly the
ſoft ſtone of our Italian hills. The large fields, and beautiful
valleys of this diftrict, are ill peopled, and worfe cultivated; and
in fome places, through want of population, the ftreams that fall
from the mountains being totally left to themſelves, form ftag-
nant pools, and greatly vitiate the natural purity of the air. The
caſtle of Peruflich, belonging to the noble family of the Counts
Poffedaria, is not however, expofed to this inconvenience of bad
air, being fituated on a ftony hill. It alfo commands a great
tract of country, and ferves as a place of refuge to the Morlacks,
in times of danger.
Ruins of ASSERIA, now called PODGRAJE.
A fhort mile from the caſtle, lies the poor hamlet of Pod-
graje; (a) which takes its name from the city, which in paſt ages
ftood, where theſe wretched cottages are now fcattered. Peu-
tinger's Itinery places Afferia on this fpot; it is the Affifia of
Ptolomy, and the Affefia, or Afferia of Pliny. This laſt author,
after having ſpecified the Liburnian cities that were obliged to
attend the congrefs, or diet of Scardona, adds to the catalogue
the free Afferians, immunefque Afferiates; (b) and this people, who
created
ས
盡
​[ 32 ]
created their own Magiftrates, and were governed by their
own municipal laws, were, no doubt, more rich and power-
ful than their neighbours. Thoſe writers on Hyrian affairs,
who thought that Zemonico rofe out of the ruins of Afferia, were
certainly miſtaken; for Zemonico is a fort in the diſtrict of
Zora, fixteen miles diſtant from Podgraje. Gluibavaz, in his
Mf. de fitu Illyrici, fell into the fame miſtake, though he can-
not be much blamed for it, becauſe when he wrote, the ruins
of Afferia were under the Turks, and therefore not eafily open
to obfervation.
for
The veftiges of the walls of Afferia, that ftill remain,
(plate II.) are a fufficient proof of what I have advanced;
their circumference is clearly diſtinguiſhable above ground, and
meaſures 3600 Roman feet. The ſpace, incloſed by them,
forms an oblong polygon, and they are built with common Dal-
matian marble, but not taken from the hill on which they ſtand,
for that furniſhes only foft ftone. The walls are invefted, both
infide and out, with this marble: fome of the ftones are ten feet
long, and they are of all confiderable dimenfions. The thickneſs
of theſe fortifications is commonly about eight feet; but at the
narroweft extremity, which falls towards the foot of the hill,
they are eleven feet thick; and, in fome parts, their height,
ſtill above ground, reaches to near thirty feet. In one place
only (A) there are manifeſt traces of a gate: I ſtood upon the
curve of its arch, which fome of the inhabitants remember
to have ſeen entire. Perhaps there was another gate at (B)
which now ſerves for the entry; and befides the gates, there
are two other openings at C and D, the laſt not ſo well preferved
as the firft: but I cannot conjecture for what uſe they were in-
tended; for they feem not to be gates, nor loop-holes, nor
drains.
B....
-
ས་
-
་་་་་
་་་་
عد
ས^ ;
M
་་་་
im
1
I
ཀསྶརཾ སྐ༴
4
P. 32.
Plan of the Walls of the CITY of ASERIA,
taken at the Village of PODGRAJE,
Twenty Seven Miles from
ZARA.
D
يارم
142242
Jac. Leonardif soul.
[ 33 ]
drains. The middle baftion E, merits particular obſervation, as
it agrees very well with modern military architecture; and a
Profeſſor of that noble art would find many things befides this
worthy of his attention. An antiquary, or even a ſimple lover
of the fine arts, or of erudition, cannot help withing at Pod-
graje, that fome powerful hand, Quicquid fub terra eft in apricum
proferit: and fuch a wish becomes ftronger, when he reflects, that
ſince the deſtruction of that city, no fearch has ever been made
under ground, with a view to diſcover any thing curious; and
yet theſe walls, without doubt, inclofe a valuable depofite of an-
tiquities, thrown down in heaps, who knows by what cauſe; per-
haps naturally, by an earthquake, or perhaps, by a ſudden inun-
dation of barbarians, which is ftill worſe. The gate now de-
moliſhed, the confiderable height of the walls to be feen in feve-
ral places from without, fome pieces of thick walls, that ſtill ap-
pear levelled to the ground among the buſhes, are circumſtances,
which give ground to hope that many coftly monuments might,
be recovered out of thefe ruins. The magnificence of the wall,
F, and the many pieces of well cut ftone, and fine marble ſcat-
tered over the contiguous fields, afford fufficient proof, that both
good taſte, and grandeur once flouriſhed in that country. In
the midſt of the rubbish, which covers the remains of Afferia,
the parish church of the little village ftands inſolated it is
built of broken pieces of ancient ruins, taken as they happened
to be neareſt, mixed with mutilated infcriptions, and fragments
of noble cornices.
C
;
i
The Morlacks, who inhabit Fodgraje, formerly paid fome
attention to ſtones, on which they faw any thing remarkable,
when they met with them in ploughing, or digging; but ever
F
fince
}
[ 34 ]
fince they were forced to drag fome fepulchral columns, without
any reward, to the fea-fide, they have vowed perpetual emnity
againſt all infcriptions; and the moment they difcover them,
they either break, or bury them under ground, deeper than
they were before and in juſtice, they ought not to be accuſed
of barbariſm on this account; for there is an eafy way of making
them become, not only prefervers of, but fearchers for ancient
monuments; and that is, only to give them hopes of ſome pre-
mium for their diſcoveries, and labour. I found by accident,
in the houſe of the Morlack Jurcka, a fepulchral monument, and
bought it for very little money, which, with ferne other ſuch ac-
quifitions, I fhall bring with me into Italy. It is no difficult
matter to gain the friendship of the Morlacks; and from thence:
many uſeful diſcoveries might be derived. I flatter myſelf I
could do this, as I know the temper of the people and there-
fore I have left Podgraje, with an earneſt defire to be able to re-
turn, furniſhed with the neceffary means of making fubterra-
neous diſcoveries.
1
Of the Manna of COSLOVAZ.
+
A
E
Coffovaz is a poor place, like the other hamlets of theſe parts,
but the woods of its diftrict are well ftored with Fraxzini,
which yield Manna in abundance, when the requifite incifions.
are made. The Morlacchi know nothing about incifions, and
were equally ignorant of the produce of thefe trees, till two
years ago, when a perſon went there to try experiments, by per-
miffion from the Government. His experiments however did
not anſwer, the ſeafon happening to be cooler than ufual, fo he
loft patience, and abandoned his project; yet when the heat
returned,
E
፡
View of OSTROVIZZA & the STRATA of the Upper Hills parallel·
VIL
to the CASTLE
曲
​B
B
༔་ད
آج تم کہ
-
A
A
200
R
B
A
Jac. Leonardif sculp
P. 35.
T 35 ]
returned, the trees gave a prodigious quantity of Manna,
which the Morlack's finding of a ſweet taste, eagerly devoured;
and ſeveral of them were near lofing their lives, by the violent
evacuation it occafioned: fo in a few days the Manna remained
only a food for the hogs and turkeys.
Of OSTROVIZZA.
Oſtrovizza, which fome would have the fame as Arauzona,
and others, the Stlupi of the ancients, though probably, it has
no connection with either the one or the other, was purchaſed
in 1410, by the Republick of Venice, for five thouſand ducats,
and fome pieces of land befides. Its fortress, which was feated
on a rock, perpendicularly cut all round, and defervedly reckoned
impregnable, before the ufe of artillery, was taken by Soliman
in 1524, but foon after returned under the dominion of Venice.
At prefent, no traces of its fortification remain, and it is only
a bare, and iſolated mafs.
I have had a fmall view of the hills of Oſtrovizza drawn,
(plate III) becauſe their tops fhew the duplicity of the divi-
fions of the ftrata very plainly, and may ferve to undeceive thofe,
who might too readily believe, that the appearances of perpendi-
cular divifions co-exifted with the ftrata themfelves, according
to the law of ftratification. The lines, AAAA, which cut
almoſt always, at right angles the horizontals, BBBB, are
fo many visible proofs of the work of wafting waters; thefe
have made their way down the fide of the hill, cutting rivulets
in it, cc, which in fome places hide the horizontal divifions,
DDDD.
The
[30]
کہ
The ftrata that form the fummit of the mafs E, on which
the ancient caſtle ftood, are of gravel, of various forts and cor
lour;
ſome are of quartz, and fome contain marine foffil bodies:
The ftratum F, is of a ſtone like that of Nanto in the Vicen-
tine, which reſembles the Moilon of the French. In rambling
around the ruggid hill GG, I collected feveral Nummales, both of
the ordinary ſpecies's which has it fpires, or circumvolutions,.
hid, and of that lefs common, which fhews them on its fur-
face; befides an excellent fpecimen of a ſpecies of Chama, and
among other foffils many fiſtulous Coralloids, and African Echi-
nites, but in bad condition. I faw befides, various turbinated
univalves, particularly cochlea, and the common Buccina, with
fome rare fpecimens of an exotic fpecies of Fungites, orbicular,
fattifh, and fometimes rather hollow in the middle, not the
third part of a line thick at the edges, and commonly not
above an inch in diameter. On the hill, where the caſtle
formerly ſtood there are figns of a ftratum of very beautiful ſpot-
ted marble, compofed of finall marine fragments, and of yulca
nic fand, worn fmooth, and rounded by water.
The covered ftratum H, is of a blueish hardened clay,
like that of which the foot of the contiguous hill is compofed,
and a row of other little hills which extend to Brebit, and from
thence to Scardona. And here I must take notice, that I can-
not agree with the celebrated Rafpe, who attributes thefe vertical
fiffures in the calcarious ferata, as well as many other fimilar
phænomena, to earthquakes. Their ſubdiviſions appear too mi-
nute and regular, to be derived from fo fudden, and violent an
agent; add to this, that I have often obſerved in Dalmatia, that
1
the
C
[037 ]
{
}
{
}
the folid maffes of marble have their fiffures likewiſe, and of the
fame nature in every refpect as thefe juft taken notice of Thefe
fiffures are ingenioully accounted for by the learned Pafferi,
in his Natural history of foffils of the territory of Pefaro; a
work, that well deferves to be reprinted, and to be better
known beyond the Alps. I am however by no means averſe
to allow with M. Rafpe, and my friend Pafferi (who, by
the by, feems partial to the Hookian fyftem) a great deal to the
force of earthquakes, and vulcanic fire, which is the cauſe of
them, when the queſtion is to explain the greater fiffures and
openings, or the fubverfions of mountains. But examples of
great bodies thrown out of equilibrium, and overturned by the
long flow labours of fubterraneous waters, have fo frequently oc-
curred to me, in my travels through Italy, and this country, that
I dare not prefer more unknown and remote caufes to them..
Not many years ago, a fen, near the village of Oftrovizza, was
ftruck with lightening, and its bottom being turf, it burnt a
long time underground, though the fire was vifible only in the
night; after it was extinguished, the whole fen remained black,
and the upper foil became barren; and it was juſt that black-
neſs that raiſed my curiofity to obſerve it.
T
*
Your Lordſhip will agree with me, that we have a right to
place lightening among the original caufes of vulcanos; for if
a thunderbolt fall in a mountain of fulphur, would it not in all
probability, make a much greater exploſion and have more re-
markable conſequences, than falling on the wet turfy fen of Of-
trovizza? and I remember to have read fomewhere, that when
Linnæus was travelling through the island of Oeland, he faw
at Moc Kelby ſeveral heaps of minerals, from which the alum had
been
t
[ 38 ]
been extracted, that had accidentally taken fire, two years before,
and were ſtill burning. This little volcano had many of the
characters of the Solfatera of Pozzuoli. Kempfer, in his voyage
to Japan, has taken notice of a volcano, that had its origin from
the cafual accenfion of a mine of foffile coal.
A fmall wood, not far from hence, produces in the autumn
and fpring an enormous fpecies of Fungus, that perfectly re-
ſembles the Carrarife, upon which the learned Sig. Merfili Pro-
feffor of Botany in the Univerfity of Padua, has given us an
excellent little treatiſe. * The vipers affect that fituation,
and multiply more there, than in any other place near it. The
Fraxini alfo hereabouts gives plenty of Manna, and of excellent
quality; but the Morlacchi have not yet learned how to make the
fimple operation requifite, in order to obtain it, by diſtillation
from the branches.
Of the River BRIBIRSCHIZA, and of MORPOLAZZA.
That I might be able to examine the waters, which form the
lake under Oftravizza, all along their courfe, I croffed the fields,
till I came to the head of the large ftream Bribirfchiza, which
iffues from the bottom of a ſteep hill, on which are ſtill ſeen the
ruins of Bribir, the ancient refidence of a powerful family of
the Bans of Dalmatia, who made a great figure in the 14th cen-
tury. In examining the course of the Bribirfchiza, I found many
adventitious fpecimens of the large Oftracites, though disfigured
by fluctuation; and near the fource, I faw feveral fpecies of Tur-
binites,
* Fungi Carrarienfis Hiftoria, Pat. 1766, 4to.
[ 39 ]
}
binites, and foffil Bivalves femicalcined, well preferved, and pel-
lucid, in a blueiſh ftony clay; but not one of all the variety that
I obferved, lives in our feas. The large broken maffes on the
banks of the ſtream, fome of which feem to have tumbled from
the top of the hill, are of fubmarine formation, and contain
imprifoned, amidst the gravel, a great variety of calcined
teftaceous bodies, which are ftill diſtinguiſhable, notwith-
ſtanding their being alfo disfigured; and ſome of them appeared
to be natives, of this country.
In my return to the fea coaft, I traverfed the large and beauti-
ful plain of Morpolazza, flanked by hills, thinly inhabited,
and divided, by a channel intended to carry off the wa-
ters of the neighbouring ftreams, and pools. The foil of this
plain, which lies almoſt all uncultivated, is a kind of marle, to
the formation whereof, the fhells of fmall Turbines feem to have
contributed; for every year, immenfe quantities of them are
left by the waters, which falling from the fuperior hills at Sopot,
ufually overflow it. The channel of Morpolazza falls into the
Jake of Scardona, after a courſe of thirty miles, under the name:
of Goducchia. It is probable, that formerly there was fome Ro-
man eſtabliſhment on the bottom, near the place where the
Church of St. Peter of Morpolazza now ftands; for fome re--
mains of hewn ftones, and fragments of infcriptions, are ſtill to
be feen. The Araufa of the itinerary of Antonnius cannot be far
from this place; and certainly thoſe who imagined that Arauſa
or Aurozona is Zuonigrad, must be very far from the the truth,
for Zuonigrad ſtands at least thirty miles farther within land, and
far from the road which that Emperor took..
There
[ 40 ]
There are foffil marine bodies between Oftrovizza, and Mor-
polazza, upon the hills of Stancovzi, and between Morpolazzą
and the fea, on all the fkirts of Bagnevaz, and Radeffinovaz.
There were many other Roman eſtabliſhments in the diftrict
of Zara, of which, although even their names are loft, the
traces may be found by the help of the Charta Peutingeriana;
fome of the names ftill remain; as, Carin, and Nadin, which
roſe from the ruins of Corimum and Nedinum; but as I did
not fee them, I can give no account of what is to be obſerved
about them; only I was told, that the veftiges of an Amphi-
theatre ſtill remain near Carin.
I choſe to mention, though perhaps with a tireſome precifion,
all the places where I found any foffils of marine origin; and all
the plains, and rich pleaſant valleys, which I faw in my ride
through a ſmall part of the diſtrict of Zara; that your Lordſhip
might not fuffer yourſelf to be deceived by what Donati* has
written, though indeed with little truth, of the eternal rocks of
Dalmatia, and of the continuity of I know not what marble
rock which compofes it; as well as of the rarity, or difficulty of
diſtinguiſhing any marine foffil bodies. It cannot be denied, that
fome of the mountains in that kingdom are rugged, and frightful;
but it muſt be added, that there are alfo large diftricts where no
mountain exiſts; and that even among the mountains themſelves,
there are very pleaſant and fertile valleys. The fame Donati,
who was my townfman, a Paduan, has alſo, in his Saggio, given
rather an unfavourable character of the people, who inhabit the
inland
Donati Saggio di Storia Nat. p. 8, 9.
[ 41 ]
inland parts of the Province, and was undoubtedly in the wrong to
tell us, that fear of the barbarity of the people, and the danger of
making reſearches, hindered Spon and Wheeler from proceeding in-
to midland Dalmatia; for theſe two travellers were bound to the
Levant, and embarked in a Venetian fhip of war; confequently,
when they landed at any port, they were not at liberty to make
any diſtant excurfions. Befides, Spon found fo much generous
hoſpitality in the maritime places, and eſpecially at Spalatro, and
was ſo well fatisfied with the honeſty and reaſonableneſs of the
Morlack guides, who accompanied him, in fome ſhort rambles
on horſeback, that he never could dream of fearing the barbarity
of the inlana people. It is eaſy to confult Spon himſelf, in the firſt
volume of his travels, where he gives an account of his jaunt to
Cliffa, and if your Lordship will have the patience to read, one
day or other, the detail of what I have perfonally experienced
on that head among the Morlacks, you will no longer believe
that people barbarous to fuch a degree, as to render travelling in
their country in the leaft dangerous.
G
TO
[ 43 ]
t
то
HIS EXCELLENCY
J.
MORO SINI,
NOBLE VENETIAN.
Of the Manners of the MORLACCHI.
ΤΗ Gonour
་
'HOUGH I am deprived, by my diſtance from Venice, of
the honour I formerly enjoyed of being often near you,
and can but feldom find opportunities of fending you letters by
fea, yet I muſt not neglect to write to you by fuch occafions
as prefent themſelves, however precarious. Your Excellency
will probably receive this letter a long time hence; but I am
fully perfuaded, that, whenever it reaches your hands, it will
meet with a gracious reception, in confequence of the friendſhip
which you have condeſcended to honour me with, and the plea-
fure with which you conftantly receive every intelligence that
tends to promote the progrefs of natural hiftory, and the ſciences
in general.
You
[ 44 ]
You have, no doubt, often heard the Morlacchi defcribed
as a race of men, fierce, unreafonable, void of humanity,
and capable of any crime. The inhabitants of the fea coaſt of
Dalmatia tell many frightful ftories about the cruelty of thoſe
people, that, induced by the avidity of plunder, they of-
ten proceeded to the moft atrocious exceffes of violence, by fire
and fword. But these facts (though the truth of them is fuffi-
ciently authenticated, by the known veracity of thoſe who relate
them) are either of ancient date, or if fome have happened in
later times, they ought rather, from the characters they bear,
to be afcribed to the corruption of a few individuals, than to
the bad diſpoſition of the nation in general. It is but too true,
that, after the late wars with the Turks,, the Morlacchi, habitu-
ated to murder and plunder: with impunity, gave fome examples
of cruelty and rapine: but what inftance can be given of
troops just returned from war, and difmiffed from the exerciſe
of arms, againſt the enemy of their fovereign, that have not
peopled the woods and highways with thieves and affaffins?
I think it, however, a duty incumbent on me, to write what
I perfonally faw relative to their customs, and inclinations, and
thereby to form fome apology for that nation, by which I
was ſo well received, and treated with ſo much humanity. And
I am the more readily difpofed to do this, as it can hardly
be thought to proceed from intereſted views; it being un-
likely that I ſhall ever return into thefe parts of Morlacchia,
where I have already been. It is ufual for travellers to magnify
the dangers to which they have been expofed, and the hardships
they have fuffered in remote countries; but I am far from that
kind of affectation, and you will fee by the detail that I am
going to give you, of the manners and cuftoms of the Morlac-
chi, with how great fecurity and eaſe I travelled amongſt them,
$
} $
and
*
[ 45 ]
1
and with how well grounded a confidence I ſhould be animated:
to profecute my refearches, if circumftances permitted.
Origin of the MORLACCHI..
The origin of the Molacchi, who inhabit the pleaſant valleys.
of Kotar, along the rivers Kerka, Cettina, Narenta, and among
the mountains of inland Dalmatia, * is involved in the darknefs-
of barbarous ages, together with that of many other nations,»
reſembling them fo much in cuftoms and language, that they
may be taken for one people, difperfed in the vast tracts from
the coafts of our fea to the frozen ocean.. The emigrations of
the various tribes of the Slavi, who, under the names of Scy--
thian's, Geti, Gaths, Huns, Slavini, Croats, Avari and Vandals,
inundated the Roman provinces, and particularly the Illyrian,
during the decline of the empire, muſt have ſtrangely perplexed
the genealogies of the nations which inhabited it, and which,
perhaps, removed thither in the fame manner at more remote
periods of time. The refidue of the Ardiei, Autariati, and other
Illyrian people, anciently fettled in Dalmatia, who probably
could not reconcile themſelves to a dependance on the Romans,
might nevertheleſs, naturally enough unite themſelves to foreign
invaders not unlike themſelves in dialect and cuſtoms. † And
E
t
it:
"
* The country inhabited by Morlacchi is of much larger extent, not only
towards Greece, but towards Germany and Hungary; but I confine my account
to the fmall part of it which I faw.
+ It cannot be doubted that the Sclavonian language exiſted in Dalmatia, even
from the times of the Roman republick. The names of many cities, rivers,
mountains, families and people in thofe parts, preferved to us by Greek and Latin
writers, are manifeftly Sclavonian. Promona, Alvona, Senia, Jádera, Rataneum,
Stlupiz
[ 46 ]
$
it feems no ill founded conjecture to fuppofe, that many families
of that laft inundation of Tartars, who in the beginning of the
thirteenth century, forced Bela 4th king of Hungary to take
refuge in the iſlands of Dalmatia, remained, and peopled the de-
ferted vallies in the mountains, and left thofe tracts of the Cal-
mucks which are ſtill diſtinguiſhable, eſpecially in the territory
of Zara.
There ſeems to be no great foundation for the opinion of the
geographer Magini, who thinks the Morlacchi and Ufcochi de-
rive their origin from Epirus. Their dialect has a much greater
reſemblance to the Raſcian and Bulgarian, than to the Albaneſe;
and if it were allowed, that a part of the Morlacchi of Vene-
tian Dalmatia had, in latter times, removed from thoſe parts,
the difficulty ftill remains to account from whence they came
thither. Magini alfo makes a ſeparate nation of the Haiduks,
who never formed a people, as appers by the very fignification
of the word itſelf. *
Etymology of the Name.
}
The Molacchi generally call themſelves, in their own idiom,
Vlafi,
Stlupi, Ufcana, Bilazora, Zagora, Triftolus, Ciabrus, Ochra, Carpatius, Pleu-
ratus, Agron, Teuca, Dardani, Triballi, Gräbaci, Peruſtæ, and many other
words, which frequently occur, in the writings of ancient hiftorians, and geo-
graphers, prove this fufficiently. A much greater number of words derived fram
the Sclavonian might be added, from the infcriptions in many parts of Dalmatia,
under the firſt emperours.
* Haiduk fignifies properly chief of a party, and fometimes (as in Tranfilvania)
head of a family; in Dalmatia it is underfood to characterize a rogue, a bandito,
highway-man,
[ 47 T
I
}
Flaffi, a national, term, of which, as far as I have been hitherto
able to diſcover, no veftige is found in the records of Dalmatia
before the thirteenth century: it fignifies men of authority, or
powerful. The denomination of Moro-Vlaffi; and corruptly Mor-
Lacchi, as the inhabitants of the towns call them, might perhaps
point out their original to us; that, by great journeys, they
came from the coafts of the black fea to invade theſe diſtant king-
doms. I think it not unlikely (although I undertake not ftre-
nuously to defend my. conjecture) that the denomination of
Moro-Vlaffi fignified, at first, the powerful, or conquerors that
came from the fea, which is called Moor in all the dialects of
the Sclavonian language. Little regard can be had to the ety-
mology of the name Morlacchi, imagined by the celebrated hif
torian of Dalmatia, Johannes Lucius, and copied from him by
his compiler Frefchot, becauſe it is evidently too far fetched..
He pretended. that Moro Vlaffi, or Moro Vlaxi, fignifies Neri-
Lotini; although, in good Illyrick, the word Moor does not
correfpond to black ; and beſides, our Molacchi are full as white
as the Italians. To fupport-more plaufibly the fecond part
this etymology, finding that the common root of the national
names Vlafi or Vlaki and Valacchi is the word Vlah, indicating
power, authority and nobility, he concluded that the inhabitants
of Valacchia and our Vlaffi must be one and the fame thing. But
the Valacchi ſpeak a language not a little refembling the Latin;
and being asked the reaſon, they anſwer that they are originally
Romans; confequently our Vlaffi, although their language dif-
fers a little, are alfo Romans. Befides thefe Vlaffi defcended from
Latin colonies were afterwards fubdued by the Slavi, and hence
the fingular name Vlab and the plural Klaff, among the Slavi,
became ignominious and fervile, infomuch that it was alſo ex-
tended to men of the lowest condition among the Slavi themfelves.
Now in anfwer to all theſe frivolous affertions, it is fufficient to
of
obferve,
>
[ 48 ]
obferve, that our Morlacchi are called Vlaff, that is, noble or po-
tent, for the ſame reaſon that the body of the nation is called
Slavi, which means glorious; that the word Vlab has nothing to
do with Latin, and though it be the root of the name Volacchi,
it is ſo, becauſe, notwithſtanding the colonies planted by Tra-
jan, the general population of Dacia confifted, as every body
knows, of people, who spoke the Sclavonian language; and
thoſe who came there, in after ages, did the fame.
did the fame. If the Sla-
vi, when conquerors, had given, or left a name to the conquered
people, they certainly would not have given or left one, which
fignifies nobility, or power; for they of neceffity must have un-
derſtood it, being a pure original Sclavoian word: And perhaps
Lucius was in bad humour with the Morlacchi, when he labour-
ed to vilify them even in the etymology of the name they bear.
It is very true, that many words of Latin original are found in
the dialect of the Illyrians, who inhabit the iſlands; fuch as,
ſalbun, plavo, ſlap, vino, capa, roſſa, tepo, zlip, Sparta, fkrinya,
lug; which fignify, fand, yellow, fall of water, wine, cape,
dew, tepid, blind, basket, cheft, wood; and are evidently derived
from fabulum, flavus, lapfus, vinum, caput, ros, tepidus, lippus,
Sporta, fcrineum, lignum: yet from theſe, and many more which
might be eaſily added, I do not think it can be reafonably con-
cluded, that the Morlacchi of our days are defcendants, in a
right line from the Romans, who ſettled in Dalmatia. It is
the common defect of writers on the origin of nations, to draw
general conſequences from trivial and particular data, which de-
pend very often on cafual and tranfitory circumftances. I am
fully perfuaded, that the inveſtigation of languages would lead to a
diſcovery of the origin of the nations by whom they were ſpoken ;
but I am alſo convinced, that, to prevent grofs miſtakes, the
moſt acute criterion is neceffary, in diftinguiſhing adventitious
from primitive words. The Illyrick language, which is widely
ſpread
1
{
[ 49 ]
fpread from the Adriatick to the ocean, has a very great num-
ber of roots like thofe of the Greek, and fome are to be found,
éven among the numerical words, which cannot be denied to be
indigenous. There are alfo many Sclavonian terms perfectly
Greek, fuch as, ſpugga, trapeza, catrida, tranſpoſed, without
any material diference, from σπόγγος, τραπεζα, καθέδρα. Yet
the frequency of grecifms, and the analogy of the alphabet, are
by no means fufficient to induce me to affert, that the vaft Scla-
vonian nation is defcended from the Greeks, who were confined
to a narrow tract; nor even, though more likely, that in far dif-
tant ages, the Sclavonians had invaded and peopled Greece.
Very long and laborious ſtudies would be requifite to clear up
fuch ancient facts; nor is it, perhaps,. poffible.
&
A learned Engliſhman takes notice of the analogy between
the English and Illyrick tongues, † and, indeed, not without
fome reaſon;` for the words ftina, meſo, ned, biſkup, brâté, ſef-
tra, fin, funže, mliko, fnigh, voda, grėb, are not unlike the
Engliſh, ſtone, fleſh, mead, biſhop, brother, fifter, ſon, fun, milk,
Snoto, water, grave; but it remains to be examined, whether
thefe words were not derived from fome dialect of the ancient
northern Celti, and brought over by the Saxons into that noblé
ifland. However, at all events,. I would not pretend to decide
on ſo obſeure a fubject, unless I perceived. a palpable refem-
blance between the body of one language and another; for many
words of fimilar found and meaning may happen to be found in
different languages,. although the origin of the refpective people
have no manner of connection. For instance, the Italian has a
confiderable mixture of exotic words, and yet it cannot be rea-
H.
+ Brerewood, dè fcrut. Relig.
fonably
[ 50 ]
*
ſonably faid, that the Italians are defcended from foreign, na-
tions. Befides, its affinities with the Arabick, Greek, German,
and French languages, as obferved by Muratori and others; the
refemblance it has with the Sclavonian, dialect is very great, tho'
nobody has hitherto endeavoured to prove that our anceſtors came
from thence.
/ 1
1
1
&
Y
Origin of the MORLACCHI different from that of the Inhabitants
of the Coast and Iſlands.5-
1
}
2
+
*
The inhabitants of the maritime towns, true defcendants of
the Roman Colonies, are no friends to the Morlacchi, who, in
return, look upon them, as well as the inhabitants of the islands,
with the greateſt contempt: which reciprocal diflike, no doubt,
proceeds, in part, from ancient difcord between the two races.
A Morlack bows, indeed, before a gentleman of the city, or an
advocate, of whom he ftands in need, but loves them not, and
treats all others, of whom he is independent, with the name of
Bodolo, which, according to his meaning, is an injurious term,
This puts me in mind of the Morlack foldier, who is ftill remem-
bered in the hoſpital of Padua where he died. The prieſt ap-
pointed to affift him in his laſt moments, not knowing the force
of the word, begun his exhortation, with "Courage Signor
Bodola !Friar, interrupted the dying man, do not call me
Bodolo, or you will make me damn myſelf," at, &
1
+
1
+
ba
3
The great difference in dialect, drefs, difpofition, and
cuſtoms, between the maritime and tranfalpine inhabitants of
Dalmatia, feems clearly. to prove, that they fprung not from
the fame origin; or, at leaft, it must have been at very dif
tant periods, and with circumſtances capable of altering their
national
?
R
2
[ 51 ]
national character. There is alfo a remarkable diverfity among
the Morlacchi themſelves, in feveral diſtricts; derived, perhaps,
from the different countries from whence they came. For the
inhabitants of Kotar are generally fair, with blue eyes, a broad
face, and flat noſe; and thoſe of the plains of Seign and Knin,
reſemble them much; but thoſe of Duare, and Vergoraz, have
dark coloured hair, a long face, tawny colour, and tall ftature.
The qualities of their mind are alfo as different as thofe of the
body; for the Morlacchi of Kotar are generally mild, reſpectful
and tractable; but thofe of Vergoraz are furly, proud, bold,
and enterprizing. They have alfo a very ſtrong inclination to theft;
owing, in part, to their fituation among inacceffible and barren
mountains, where they are often expoſed to want, but are fure
of impunity; and, perhaps, the ancient blood of the Varali,
Ardiei, and Autariati, who were confined among thoſe mountains
by the Romans, ftill runs in their veins. For the moſt part,
their robberies fall on the Turks; though, in cafes of neceffity,
they are faid to uſe the fame freedom with the Chriftians.
Among the artful and bold ftrokes of knavery, which they
tell of one of theſe Vergorzani, the following is characteriſtick.
The rogue was at a fair, and a countryman having bought a cop-
per kettle, laid it down, together with his bundle, juſt by his
fide; the Vergorvan, who stood hard by, took up the kettle,
while the peaſant was talking to an acquaintance, and fet it on
his head, without ſtirring from his place; the other, having
finiſhed his conference, turned about to take up his things, but
the kettle was gone, and afking him, who had it. on his head, if
he had not ſeen ſomebody carry it off, he was answered; "Truly,
Friend, I was not minding theſe things, but if you had put
64 your kettle on your head, as you fee I did, you would not have
"loſt it." Yet, notwithſtanding theſe miſchievous tricks,
whink
[ 52 ]
}
which they fay are frequent enough, a stranger may travel fe-
curely among them, is faithfully eſcorted, and hofpitably treat-
ed.
3
?
+
***
}
4 1 0.
The greatest danger to be feared, is from the Hafduks;"'of
whom great numbers have retreated among the woods,' and caves
of thoſe dreadful mountains on the confines; there, a traveller
ought to get himſelf eſcorted by a couple of thefe honeft fellows,
and he is quite fafe; for they are not capable of betraying him,
although a banditti; and, indeed, their cafe is commonly more
apt to raiſe compaffion, than diffidence; for their character is
not effentially bad; if it were fo, their numbers would foon be-
come very formidable to the maritime inhabitants of 'Dalmatia.
They lead their life among the wolves, wandering from one pre-
cipice to another, agitated by continual fears and fufpicions, ex-
poſed to the ſeverity of the feafons, and often deprived of the ne-
ceffaries of life, languish in the moſt folitary hideous caverns.
It would be no wonder, if fuch men, irritated by the "conftant
view of their miferable fituation, were to commit acts of vio-
lence, eſpecially againſt thoſe to whom they attribute the cauſe
of their calamities. Yet they very feldom diſturb the tranquil-
lity of others, and prove always faithful guides to travellers.
The chief objects of their rapine are oxen and freep, to ſupply
themſelves with food and fhoes; and I have often heard them
bitterly and juftly cenfured, for the barbarbus..indiſcretion of
killing a poor man's ox, in order to ferve themſelves only with
a finall portion of the meat, and the fkin. This certainly ad-
mits of no apology; yet humanity bids us reflect, that the
things coveted by theſe wretches, are articles of the greatest ne-
ceffity, as they are condemned to live among defolate noun-
tains, which have no covering either of grafs or earth,i and are
full
[53]
ву
full of hard tharp tones, that have been rendered. ftill more
rough and cutting by the action of the air and time. It hap-
pens fometimes, in their extreme neceffity, that the Haiduks
go in parties to the fhepherds cottages, and rudely demand fome-
thing to eat, which they immediately take by force, if the leaft
heſitation is made; though they feldom meet with a refuſal, or
refiftance, as their refolution and fury are well known to be
equal to their wants, and to the favage life which they lead.
Four Haiduks are not afraid to affault a caravan of fifteen or
twenty Turks, and generally plunder and put them to flight.
When a Haiduk happens to be taken by the Panduri, they do
not bind him, as our Birri are uſed to do, but untying the firing
of his breeches, they fall down on his heels, and prevent a pof-
fibility of escape, if he attempted it; a humane contrivance to
fecure a man without binding him like a beaft. The greateſt
part of the Haiduks look upon it as a meritorious action, to fhed
the blood of the Turks; a miſtaken zeal for religion, joined to
their natural and acquired ferocity, eafily lead them to commit
fuch acts of violence; and the ignorance, and national preju-
dices of their priests are too apt to inflame their barbarous fana-
ticiſm:
?
→
*
T
On the moral and domeftick Virtues of the MORLACCHI.
1
The morals of a Morlack, at a diſtance from the ſea coft and
garrifons, are generally very different from ours. The fincerity,
truft, and honefty of theſe poor people, not only in contracts,
but in all the ordinary actions of their life, would be called fim-
最
​plicity and weakneſs among us. It is true, that the Italians,
who trade in Dalmatia, and the littoral inhabitants themſelves,
have but too often taken advantage of this integrity; and hence the
Morlacchi
[ 54 ]
у
ISIN
+
Morlacchi are become much more diffident, than they were im
former times; infomuch, that the want of probity, which they
have fo often experienced, in dealing with the Italians, is. paffed
into a proverb among them, and the words paffia-viro, and Lanz-
manzka-viro, that is, the faith of a dog, and faith of an Italian,
are uſed to exprefs the fame reproachful meaning. This prepof-
feffion againſt us might prove incommodious to an unknown tra-
veller, and yet it feldom happens. For the Morlack, naturally
hoſpitable and generous, opens his poor cottage to the ſtranger,
and ferves him to the utmoſt of his power, without demanding,,
nay, often obftinately refufing, the leaft recompence; and I have
more than once got a dinner from one of thoſe men, who knew
nothing about me, had never ſeen, me, and could not expect.
ever to fee me again..
+
I ſhall never forget the cordial reception and treatment given:
me by Pervan Vajvod, of Coccorich; to whom I had nothing elſe.
to recommend me but my being in friendſhip with a family who
were alfo his friends. He fent his horſes, and an eſcort to meet.
me on the road; and, during the few days. which I fpent in.
that neighbourhood, loaded me with all the luxury of national.
hoſpitality. He ſent his own fon, and ſeveral of his people, to
efcort me as far as the plains of Narenta, a good day's journey
from his houſe, and furniſhed me with provifions in abundance ;
and all this was done without my being allowed to ſpend a fin-
gle penny. On my departure from that hofpitable manfion,
he and all his family came out and followed me with their eyes,.
till I was out of fight; which affectionate manner of taking leave
raiſed a kind of agitation in my mind, which I never felt be-
fore, and can ſcarcely ever hope to feel again, in travelling over
Italy. I took along with me the portrait of my generous hoft,
←
(P. 4.)
1
be Vajvoda Pervan
of Coccorich.
A Noble Young Lady of Coccorich.
A Young Lady of the Kotar.
?
་་ད་་་
3
$
P. 54.
fac. Leonardif soul.
[ 55 ]
I
(P.-4.) that, in fpite of the interpofition of fea and mountains, I
might have the pleaſure of beholding him, at leaſt, in effigy ; and
alfó to give an idea of the luxury of the Morlacchi, in the habits of
their chiefs. Pervan alfo gave me leave to take a drawing of the
dreſs of one of his nieces, which is very different from that of
the young women of Kotar, and of the other Morlack territories
that I had ſeen.
}
X
The Morlacchi are extremely fenfible of mild treatment, and,
when they meet with it, are ready to perform every poffible fer-
vice, and to become cordial friends. Their hofpitality is equally
confpicuous among the poor as among the more opulent. The
rich prepares a roafted lamb, or ſheep; and the poor, with
equal cordiality, gives his turkey,, milk, honey, or whatever
elfe he has. Nor is their generofity confined to ſtrangers, but
generally extends itſelf to all who are in want,
~
When a Morlack is on a journey, and comes to lodge at a
friend's houſe, the eldeſt daughter of the family, or the new
married bride, if there happens to be one, receives, and kiffes
him when he alights from his horſe, or at the door of the houſe.
But a foreigner is rarely favoured with theſe female civilities'; on
the contrary, the women, if they are young, hide themſelves, and
keep out of his way. Perhaps more than one violation of the
laws of hofpitality has made them thus referved to ftrangers; or
perhaps the jealous cuſtoms of the neighbouring Turks have
fpread among the Morlacchi.
While there is any thing to eat in the houſes of thoſe villagers,
the
poor of the neighbourhood are welcome to partake of it; and
hence it is, that no Morlack ever humbles himſelf to aſk alms
།
of
[ 56 ]
of a paffenger; at leaſt, I never met with one example of it.
I indeed, have often been forced to afk fomething from poor
fhepherds, but I always found them liberal; and many times,
in travelling through the fields in the heat of fummer, I have
mèt poór reapers, who, of their own accord, preſented me with
their flaſks to drink, and offered me a part of their ruftick pro-
vifions, with an affecting cordiality..
>
1
The Morlacchi, in general, have little notion of domeftick
œconomy, and readily confume in a week, as much as would
be fufficient for feveral months,, whenever any occafion of merry-
ment prefents itfelf. A marriage, the holiday of the Saint, pro--
tector of the family, the arrival of relations or friends, or any
other joyful incident, confumes, of courſe, all that there is to eat
and to drink in the houfe. Yet the Morlack is a great econo
mift in the uſe of his wearing apparel;. for, rather than fpoil
his new cape, he takes it off, let it rain ever fo hard, and goes
bareheaded in the ſtorm. In the fame manner he treats his-
fhoes, if the road is dirty, and they are not very old. Nothing
but an abfolute impoffibility hinders a Morlack from being
punctual; and. if he cannot repay the money he borrowed, at:
the appointed time, he carries a ſmall prefent to his creditor,.
and requeſts a longer term.. Thus it happens fometimes, thatį.
from term to term, and prefent to prefent, he pays double. what
he owed, without reflecting on it..
Of their Friendships and Quarrels.
Friendship, that among us is fo fubject to change on the
flighteſt motives, is lafting among the Morlacchi.. They have
even made it a kind of religious point, and tie the facred bond at
the
[ 57 ]
the foot of the altar. The Sclavonian ritual contains a particu-
lar benediction for the folemn union of two male or two female
friends in the prefence of the congregation. I was preſent at
the union of two young women, who were made Pofeftre, in the
church of Perufich. The fatisfaction that ſparkled in their
eyes, when the ceremony was performed, gave a convincing
proof, that delicacy of fentiments can lodge in minds not form-
ed, or rather not corrupted by fociety, which we call civilized.
The male friends thus united, are called Pobratimi, and the fe-
males Pofeftreme, which mean half-brothers, and half-fifters.
Friendſhips between thoſe of different fexes, are not at this day
bound with fo much folemnity, though perhaps in more ancient
and innocent ages it was alfo the cuſtom.
From theſe confecrated friendſhips among the Morlacchi and other
nations of the fame origin, it ſhould ſeem, that the fworn brothers
arofe a denomination frequent enough among our common people,
and in many parts of Europe. The difference between theſe and the
Pobratimi of Morlacchia, confifts, not only in the want of the ritual
ceremony, but in the defign of the union itſelf. For, among the
Morlacchi, the fole view is reciprocal fervice and advantage;
but ſuch a brotherhood among us, is generally commenced by
bad men, to enable them the more to hurt and difturb fociety.
The duties of the Pobratimi are, to affiſt each other in every
cafe of need or danger, to revenge mutual wrongs, and fuch
like. The enthuſiaſm is often carried fo far as to rifk, and even
to loſe their life for the Pobratimi, although thefe favage friends
are not celebrated like a Pilades. If diſcord happens to ariſe be-
tween two friends, it is talked of over all the country as a ſcan-
dalous novelty; and there have been fome examples of it of
late years, to the great affliction of the old Morlacchi, who at-
tribute the depravation of their countrymen to their intercourfe
I
with
}
1
[ 58 ]
with the Italians. Wine and ftrong liquors, of which the na-
tion is beginning to make daily abuſe, after our example, will,
of courſe, produce the fame bad effects as among us.
But as the friendſhips of the Morlacchi are ſtrong and facred,
fo their quarrels are commonly unextinguiſhable. They pafs
from father to fon, and the mothers fail. not to put their chil-
dren in mind of their duty, to revenge their father, if he has
had the misfortune to be killed, and to fhew them often the
bloody ſhirt and arms of the dead. And fo deeply is revenge
rooted in the minds of this nation, that all the miffionaries in
the world would not be able to eradicate it. A Morlack is na-
turally inclined to do good to his fellow creatures, and is full of“
gratitude for the fmalleft benefit; but implacable if injured or
infulted. With him, revenge and juſtice have exactly the fame.
meaning, and truly it is the primitive idea; and I have been
told, that in Albonia, the effects of revenge are ſtill more atro-
cious and more lafting. There, a man of the mildeſt character,.
is capable of the moſt barbarous revenge, believing it his pofi-
tive duty, and preferring the mad chimera of falſe honour, to
the violation of the most facred laws, and to the puniſhment to
which he expoſes himſelf, with premeditated refolution..
A Morlack, who has killed another of a powerful family, is-
commonly obliged to fave, himſelf by flight, and to keep out.
of the way for ſeveral years. If, during that time, he has been
fortunate enough to eſcape the fearch of his purfuers, and has
got a ſmall ſum of money, he endeavours to obtain pardon and
peace; and, that he may treat about the conditions in perſon,
he aſks, and obtains a fafe conduct, which is faithfully main-
tained though only verbally granted. Then, he finds mediators,
and,
[ 59 ]
and, on an appointed day, the relations of the two hoftile families
are affembled, and the criminal is introduced, dragging him
ſelf along on his hands and feet, the mufket, piftol or cutlaſs,
with which he committed the murder, hung about his neck; and
while he continues in that humble pofture, one or more of the
relations recites a panegyrick on the dead, which fometimes re-
kindles the flames of revenge, and puts the poor proftrate in no
fmall danger. It is the cuftom in fome places for the offended
party to threaten the criminal, holding all kind of arms to his
throat, and, after much intreaty, to confent at leaft to accept
of his ranfom. Theſe pacifications coft dear in Albonia, but
the Morlacchi make up matters fometimes at a ſmall expence;
and every where the business is concluded with a feaft at the of-
fender's charge.
Of the Talents and Arts of the MORLACCHI.
The natural vivacity and enterprizing ſpirit of the Morlacchi,
qualify them to fucceed in any kind of employment. In parti-
cular, they make excellent foldiers, and, towards the end of the
laft age, they performed very uſeful fervice, under the brave ge-
neral Delfino, who conquered an important tract of country be-
longing to the Porte, chiefly by their means. They alſo be-
come very expert in the direction of mercantile bufinefs; and
eafily learn to read and write, even after they are grown up.
It is faid, that the Morlack fhepherds, about the beginning of
this age, were very fond of reading a large book of the chriftian
doctrine, moral and hiftorical, compiled by father Divcovich,
and reprinted ſeveral times at Venice, in the Ceryllian Boſnian
character, which is fomewhat different from the Ruffian. It hap-
pened often, that the prieſt of the pariſh, more pious than learn-
ed,
>
+
[ 60 ]
ed, in his citations, mistook, or altered material circumftances,
and then one of the audience would fay aloud, nie tako, it is not
fo. It is added, that to prevent that ſcandal, great pains were
taken to collect all thofe books, and in fact, very few of them
are now found among the shepherds. This nation is alſo en-
dowed with remarkable quickneſs of fancy, and are very ready,
on any occafion, at giving pointed anſwers.
Notwithſtanding their execellent difpofition to learn every
art, the Morlacchi have the moſt imperfect notions of husban-
dry, and are very unſkillful in the management of their cattle,
and in curing their difeafes. They have a fingular veneration:
for old cuſtoms, and little care has hitherto been taken either
to remove their prejudices, or to teach them better methods.
Their ploughs, and other rural utenfils, feem to be of the moſt
rude invention, and are as unlike ours, as the other faſhions
ufed in the days of Triptolemus would be to thofe of the prefent
age. They make cheeſe, butter, and cream-cheeſe too, in
their way; all which might pafs well enough, if they were-
only done with more cleanlineſs. The taylor's art is confined
to ancient and unalterable patterns, which are always cut from
the fame kind of cloth, fo that any difference in the uſual
breadth would quite difconcert a Morlack taylor. They have fome
notion of dying, and their colours are not defpicable. Their
black is made of the bark of the afh-tree, called by them Jaffen,
laid in warm water for eight days, with fome iron, drofs, which
they gather from the blackſmiths forges; then they make uſe
of this water, when cold, to give the colour. They alſo ex--
tract a fine blue colour from the infufion of wood, dried in the
ſhade, in a lie of ashes well purified; they let this mixture boil
feveral hours, and tinge the cloth in the water when cold. Sco-
danus
2
[ 61 ]
danus, by them called Rug, gives yellow and brown; and they
alfo obtain a yellow from the Evonimus, known there by the
name of Puzzolina.
Almoſt all the Morlack women are ſkilful in works of embroi-
dery and knitting. Their embroidery is curious, and exactly
the fame on both fides. They alſo make a fort of knit, or net-
work, that our Italian women cannot imitate, and uſe it chiefly
as a kind of buſkin to their ſlippers and brogues, called Nazuvka.
They do not want looms to weave their ferge and other coarſe
cloth; but the women have not much time to apply to theſe
things, their offices among the Morlacchi not admitting of fe-
dentary labours.
In fome of their villages, particularly at Verlika, they make
earthen ware, very coarfe indeed, but very durable.
Of the Superftition of the MORLACCHI.
The Morlacks, whether they happen to be of the Roman, or
of the Greek church, have very fingular ideas about religion;
and the ignorance of their teachers daily augments this mon-
ftrous evil. They are as firmly perfwaded of the reality of
witches, fairies, enchantments, nocturnal apparitions and forti-
leges, as if they had feen a thouſand examples of them. Nor
do they make the leaſt doubt about the exiſtence of Vampires;
and attribute to them, as in Tranfilvania, the fucking the blood
of infants. Therefore when a man dies fufpected of becoming
a vampire, or Vukodlak, as they call it, they cut his hams, and.
prick his whole body with pins; pretending, that after this ope-
#ation he cannot walk about. There are even inſtances of Mor-
lacchi,
[ 62 ]
lacchi, who imagining that they may poffibly thirft for children's
blood after death, intreat their heirs, and fometimes oblige
them to promife to treat them as vampires when they die.
The boldeſt Haiduc would fly trembling from the apparition
of a ſpectre, ghoſt, phantom, or fuch like goblins as the heated
imaginations of credulous and prepoffeffed people never fail to
fee. Nor are they afhamed, when ridiculed for this terror, but
anfwer, much in the words of Pindar: "fear that proceeds from
ſpirits, cauſes even the fons of the Gods to fly." The women, as
may be naturally fuppofed, are a hundred times more timorous and
vifionary than the men; and fome of them, by frequently hearing
themſelves called witches, actually believe they are fo. The old
witches are acquainted with many ſpells; and one of the moſt
common is to transfer the milk of other people's cows to their
own. But they can perform more curious feats than this; and
I know a young man, who had his heart taken out by two
witches, while he was faft a fleep, in order to be roafted and
eat by them. The poor man did not perceive his lofs, as may
eafily be imagined, till he awoke; but then he begun to com-
plain, on feeling the place of his heart void; a begging friar,
who lay in the fame place, but was not afleep, beheld the whole
anatomical operation of the witches, but could not hinder them,
becauſe they had charmed him. The charm however, loft its
force, when the young man without the heart awoke; and both
wanted to chaſtiſe the witches; but they, rubing themſelves with
a certain ointment, flew away. The friar went to the hearth,
took the heart, then well broiled, and gave it to the young man
to eat; which he had no fooner done, than he was perfectly
cured, as may reaſonably be fuppofed. The good father told
this ftory, and will tell it often, fwearing to the truth of it;
and
[ 63 ]
and the people dare not fufpect that wine had made him fee
one thing for another, and that the two women, one of whom
was not old, had flown away for quite another reaſon than for
being witches. The enchantreffes are called Geftize; and that
the remedy may be at hand, there are others called Bahornize,
equally well ſkilled in undoing the ſpells; and to doubt of thefe
two oppoſite powers, would be worſe than infidelity.
A moſt perfect difcord reigns in Morlacchia, as it generally
does in other parts, between the Latin and Greek communion,
which their reſpective prieſts fail not to foment, and tell a thou-
fand little fcandalous ftories of each other. The churches of
the Latins are poor, but not very dirty: thofe of the Greeks
are equally poor, and fhamefully ill kept. I have feen the cu-
rate of a Morlack village fitting on the ground in the church-
yard, to hear the confeffion of women on their knees by his fide;
a ſtrange pofture indeed! but a proof of the innocent manners
of thofe good people, who have the most profound veneration
for their ſpiritual paftors, and a total dependance upon them,
who on their part, frequently make ufe of a difcipline rather
military, and correct the bodies of their offending flock with the
cudgel. Perhaps this particular is carried to an abufe as well as
that of publick penance, which they pretend to inflict after the
manner of the ancient church. They moreover, through the
filly credulity of thoſe poor mountaineers, draw illicit profits,
by felling certain fuperftitious fcrolls and other fcandalous mer-
chandize of that kind. They write in a capricious manner, on
the fcrolls called Zapiz, facred names which ought not to be trif-
fled with, and ſometimes adding others very improperly joined.
The virtues attributed to theſe Zapiz are much of the fame na-
ture as thoſe which the Bafilians attributed to their monftrouſly
cut
[ 64 ]
cut ftones. The Morlacchi ufe to carry them ſewed to their
caps, to cure, or to prevent diſeaſes; and they alfo tie them for
the fame purpoſe to the horns of their oxen. The compofers of
this trumpery take every method to maintain the credit of their
profitable trade, in fpite of its abfurdity, and the frequent proofs
of its inutility. And fo great has their fuccefs been, that not
only the Morlacchi, but even the Turks near the borders, provide
themſelves plentifully with Zapiz from the chriftian priefts,
which not a little increaſes their income, as well as the reputation
of the commodity. The Morlacchi have alſo much devotion,
and many of our ignorant people have little leſs, to certain cop-
per and filver coins of the low empire; or to Venetian cotem-
porary pieces, which pafs among them, for medals of St. Helen,
and they think they cure the epilepſy and ſuch like. They are
equally fond of an Hungarian coin called petizza, which has
the Virgin and Child on the reverfe; and one of theſe is a moſt
acceptable prefent to a Morlack.
The bordering Turks not only keep with devotion the fuper-
ftitious Zapiz, but frequently bring preſents, and cauſe maffes to
be celebrated, to the images of the Virgin; which is doubt-
leſs in contradiction to the Alcoran; yet when faluted, in the
ufual manner in that country, by the name of Jefus, they do noť
anſwer. Hence when the Morlacchi, or other travellers, meet
them on the confines, they do not fay huaglian Iffus, Jefus be
praiſed; but buaglian Bog, God be praiſed.
Concerning the Manners of the MORLACCHI.
pre-
Innocence, and the natural liberty of paftoral ages, are ſtill
ferved among the Morlacchi, or at least, many traces of them
remain
1
[ 65 ]
A
remain in the places fartheft diftant from our fettlements. Pure
cordiality of ſentiment is not there reftrained by other regards,
and diſplays itſelf without any diftinction of circumftances.
handſome young Morlack girl, who meets a man of her diſtrict,
on the road, kiffes him affectionatly, without the leaft malice, or
immodeft thought; and I have ſeen all the women and girls, all
the young men and old, kiffing one another as they came into
the church yard on a holiday; fo that they looked as if they had
been all belonging to one family. I have often obferved the fame
thing on the road, and at the fairs in the maritime towns, where
the Morlacchi came to fell their commodities. In times of feaſt-
ing and merriment, befides the 'kifs, fome other little liberties
are taken with the hands, which we would not reckon decent,
but are not minded among them; and when they are told of it,
they anſwer, it is only toying and means nothing. From this
toying however, their amours often take their beginning, and fre-
quently end ferioufly when the two lovers are once agreed. For
it very rarely happens, in places far diftant from the coaft, that
a Morlacco carries off a girl againft her will, or dishonours her;
and were fuch attempts made, the young woman would, no
doubt be able to defend herſelf; the women in that country be-
ing generally very little leſs robuſt than the men. But the cuf
tom is for the woman herſelf to appoint the time and place of
being carried off; and ſhe does fo in order to extricate herſelf
from other fuitors, from whom ſhe may have received fome love
token, fuch as a brafs ring, a little knife, or fuch like trifles.
The Morlack women keep them felves fomewhat neat till they
get a husband, but after marriage they abandon themſelves to-
tally to a loathfome dirtineſs, as if they intended to juſtify the
contempt with which they are treated. Indeed it cannot be ſaid
that even the young women have a grateful odour, as they are
K
ufed
[ 66 ]
uſed to anoint their hair with butter, which foon becoming ran
cid, exhales no agreeable effluvia..
Of the MORLACK Women's Dreſs.
The drefs of the Morlack women, is different in different:
parts of the country, but it appears every where ftrange to an
Italian. That of the unmarried women is the moſt complex and
whimſical, in reſpect to the ornaments of the head; for when
married they are not allowed to wear any thing elſe but a han-
kerchief, either white or coloured, tied about it. The girls ufe.
a fcarlet cap, to which they commonly hang a veil falling down.
on the ſhoulders, as a mark of their virginity. The better fort.
adorn their caps with ſtrings of filver coins, among which are
frequently feen, very ancient and valuable ones; they have more--
over earings of very curious work, and fmall filver chains with
the figures of half moons faftened to the ends of them.. But
the poor are forced to content themſelves with plain caps, or if
they have any ornaments, they confift only of ſmall exotic ſhells,,
round glaſs beads, or bits of tin. The principal merit of theſe.
caps, which conftitute the good tafte, as well as vanity of the
Morlack young ladies, is to attract and fix the eyes of all who
are near them, by the multitude of ornaments, and the noife.
they make on the leaft motion of their heads. Hence half moons
of filver, or of tin, little chains and hearts, falfe ftones and.
fhells, together with all kinds of fplendid trumpery, are readily.
admitted into their head drefs. In fome diftricts, they fix.tufts
of various coloured feathers, reſembling two horns on their caps;
in others, tremulous plumes of glaſs; and in others, artificial.
flowers, which they purchaſe in the fea port towns; and it muſt
be confeffed, that in the variety of thoſe capricious and barbarous
ornaments,
[ 67 }
]
ornaments, fometimes a fancy not inelegant is difplayed. Their
holiday ſhifts are embroidered with red filk, and fometimes with
gold, which they work themſelves, while they attend their
flocks; and it is furpriſing to fee how nicely this work is execut-
ed. Both old and young women wear about their necks large
ftrings of of round glafs beads of various fize and colour; and
many rings of braſs, tin, or filver on their fingers. Their brace-
lets are of leather covered with wrought tin, or filver; and they
embroider their ftomachers, or adorn them with beads or fhells.
But the uſe of ſtays is unknown, nor do they put whalebone or
iron in the ſtomacher. A broad woolen girdle furrounds their
petticoat, which is commonly decked with fhells and of blue
colour, and therefore called Modrina. Their gown, as well as
petticoat, is of a kind of ferge; and both reach near to the an-
kle; the gown is bordered with ſcarlet and called Sadak. They
ufe no modrina in fummer, and only wear the Sadak without
fleeves over a linen petticoat or ſhift. The girls always wear
red ſtockings, and their ſhoes are like thofe of the men, called
opanke. The fole is of undreffed ox hide, and the upper part of
heep's ſkin thongs knotted, which they call apute, and theſe
they faften above the ankles, fomething like the ancient co-
turnus.
The unmarried women, even of the richeſt families, are not
permitted to wear any other ſort of ſhoes; though after marriage
they may, if they will, lay afide the opanke, and ufe Turkiſh
flippers. The girls keep their hair treffed under their
caps, but
when married they let it fall dishevelled on the breaft; fome-
times they tie it under the chin; and always have medals, beads,
or bored coins, in the Tarrar or American mode, twiſted amongſt
it. An unmarried woman who falls under the imputation of
want
[
68 ]
want of chastity, runs the risk of having her red cap torn off
her head publickly in church by the curate, and her hair cut
by fome relation, in token of infamy. Hence, if any of them
happen to have fallen into an illicit amour, they, commonly,
of their own accord, lay afide the badge of virginity, and re-
move into another part of the country..
Of their Marriages, Pregnancy, and Childbirth.
1
Nothing is more common among the Morlacchi than marriages
concluded between the old people of the reſpective families, eſpe-
cially when the parties live at a great diſtance, and neither fee
nor know each other; and the ordinary motive of theſe alliances
is, the ambition of being related to a numerous and powerful fa-
mily, famous for having produced valiant men. The father of
the future bridegroom, or fome other near relation of mature age,
goes to afk the young woman, or rather a young woman of fuch
a family, not having, commonly, any determinate choice. Upon
this, all the girls of the houſe are fhewn to him, and he chufes
which pleaſes him beft, though generally reſpecting the right of
feniority. A denial in fuch cafes is very rare, nor does the fa-
ther of the maid enquire much into the circumſtances of the fa-
mily that aſks her. Sometimes a daughter of the maſter is given
in marriage to the fervant, or tenant, as was ufual in patriarchal
times; fo little are the women regarded in this country. On
thefe occafions, however, the Morlacchi girls enjoy a privi-
lege which ours would alſo wiſh to have, as in juſtice they cer-
tainly ought. For he who acts by proxy, having obtained his
fuit, is obliged to go and bring the bridegroom; and if, on
ſeeing each other, the young people are reciprocally content, the
marriage is concluded, but not otherwiſe. In fome parts, it is
the
·[ 69 ]
the cuſtom for the bride to go to ſee the houſe and family of the
propoſed huſband, before the gives a definitive anfwer; and, if
the place or perſons are diſagreeable to her, fhe is at liberty to
annul the contract. But, if ſhe is contented, the returns to her
father's houſe, eſcorted by the bridegroom and neareſt relations.
There the marriage day is appointed; on which the bridegroom
comes to the bride's houfe, attended by all his friends of greateſt
note, who, on this occafion, are called Svati, and are all armed,
and on horſeback, in their holiday cloaths, with a peacock's
feather in their cap, which is the diſtinctive ornament uſed by
thoſe who are invited to weddings. The company goes armed,
to repulſe any attack, or ambuſh, that might be intended to dif
turb the feaſt. For, in old times, theſe encounters, were not
unfrequent, according to the records of many national heroic
fongs. In one of thefe is told the ftory of Janco Vojvod of Se-
bigne, who was cotemporary with the famous George Caftriotich,
named Scanderbeg, and betrothed to Fagna of Temeſwar, whoſe
brothers, being not his friends, when he came to conclude the
marriage, engaged him in the punctilio of performing certain
feats, upon condition, that, if he fucceeded,. he was to have
the bride, and, if not, he was to lofe. his life. Theſe were,
as the ſong relates; that, he was to pierce an apple ſtuck on the
point of a ſpear, with his dart, at a certain diſtance; then he
was to ſpring over nine horſes, placed one befide another, at one
leap; and, laftly, to difcover. his future fpoufe, among nine
young women, all covered with veils. Janco, it ſeems, was a
valiant foldier, but not expert in fuch trials of ſkill; however,
his nephew undertook them in his place, and no objection
was made, as they fay, is the cuftom in a certain ifland,
to hire one to fight for another at a boxing match. The
expedient made uſe of by Zeculo, Janco's nephew, to know
the
[ 70 ]
"
the bride among the other nine young women, was fingular,
and merits a prolongation of my digreffion. He ſpread his
mantle on the ground, threw a handful of gold rings on it, and
then gallantly addreffed the Ladies as follows; "Lovely maid,
"who art deſtined to be Janco's wife, do thou pick up theſe
golden rings, and wear them; but if any other dares to touch
one of them, I will cut off her arm at a blow." The nine
young women were very naturally afraid of the danger, and did
not chufe to advance, fo Janco's bride collected the rings, and
thus the nuptial games were finifhed. When, upon trials of
this nature, one of the parties found himſelf excluded, and
another preferred, as he thought, unjustly, he commonly had
recourſe to arms for redrefs; and much blood was often fhed in
thoſe combats; and many tombs of the ancient Slavi, are ftill
to be ſeen in the woods, and defert places of Morlacchia, where-
on theſe feuds are engraved in coarſe baſs-relief.*
}
The bride is conducted to a church, veiled, and furrounded
by the Svati on horſeback, and the facred ceremony is performed
amidſt the noiſe of muskets, piftols, barbaric fhouts, and accla-
mations, which continue till fhe returns to her father's houfe,
or to that of her huſband, if not far off. Each of the Svati has
his particular inſpection, as well during the cavalcade, as at the
marriage feaſt, which begins immediately on their return from
church. The Parvinaz precedes all the reft, finging fuch fongs,
1
as
* Some of thefe tombs are to be feen, particularly in the wood between Gliu-
bufki and Vergoraz, on the banks of the Trebesat; and along the military way,
that leads from Salona to Narona. At Levrech, Cifta, Mramor, and between
Soign and Imoſki, there are many. There is one iſolated at Dervenich, in Primo-
ji, called Goftagnichia-Greb; and another at Zakucaz, which, they fay, was erected
on the spot where the combat happened.
[ 7 ]
as he thinks fuitable to the occafion. The Bariactar brandishes
a lance with a filken banner faſtened to it, and an apple ſtuck on
the point; there are two Bariactars, and fometimes four, at the
more noble marriages. The Stari-fvat is the principle perfo-
nage of the brigade, and the moſt refpectable relation is com-
monly inveſted with this dignity. The Stacheo's duty is to receive
and obey the orders of the Stari-fuat. The two Diveri, who ought
to be the bridegroom's brothers, when he has any, are appointed
to ſerve the bride. The Knum correfponds to our fponfors; and
the Komorgia, or Sekſana is deputed to receive, and guard the
dowery.. A Ciaous carries the mace, and attends to the order of
the march, as maſter of the ceremonies; he goes finging aloud,
Breberi, Davori, Dobra-frichia, Jara, Pico, names of ancient
propitious deities. Buklia is the cup bearer of the company, as
well on the march, as at table; and all theſe offices are doubled,
and fometimes tripled, in proportion to the number of the com-
pany.
4
"
The firft day's entertainment is fometimes made at the bride's
Houſe, but generally at the bridegroom's, whether the Svati:
haften immediately after the nuptial benediction; and at the
fame time, three or four men run on foot to tell the good news;
the firſt who gets to the houſe has a kind of towel, embroi-
dered at the ends, as a premium. The Domachin, or head of
the houſe, comes out to meet his daughter in law, and a child
is handed to her, before the alights, to careſs it; and, if there
happens to be none in the houfe, the child is borrowed from
one of the neighbours. When the alights, the kneels down,
and kiffes the threshold. Then the mother in law, or, in herr
place, fome other female relation, preſents a corn fieve, full
of different kinds of grain, nuts, almonds, and other ſmall
fruit,
·
[ 72 ]
fruit, which the bride fcatters upon the Svati, by handfuls, be-
hind her back. The bride does not fit at the great table, the
firſt day, but has one apart for herſelf, the two Diveri and the
Stacheo. The bridegroom fits at table with the Svati, but in
all that day, confecrated to the matrimonial union, he muſt
neither unloofe, nor cut any thing whatever, The Knum carves
his meat, and cuts his bread. It is the Domachin's buſineſs to
give the toafts; and the Stari-fvat is the first who pledges him.
Generally the Bukkara, a very large wooden cup, goes round,
firſt to the Saint Protector of the family; next to the proſperity
of the holy faith; and, fometimes, to a name, the moſt fub-
lime, and venerable. The moſt extravagant abundance reigns
at theſe feaſts, and each of the Svati contributes, by ſending a
ſhare of proviſions. The dinner begins with fruit, and cheeſe,
and the foup comes laft, juft contrary to our cuſtom. All forts
of domeſtick fowls, kid, lamb, and fometimes venifon, are
heaped in prodigal quantities upon their tables; but very
rarely a Morlacco eats veal, and perhaps never, unleſs he has
been perfuaded to do it out of his own country. This abhor-
rence to calves flesh is very ancient among the Morlacchi. St.
Jerome, againſt Jovinian, * takes notice of it: and Tomeo Mar-
navich, a Bofnian writer, who lived in the beginning of the
laft age, fays, that the Dalmatians, uncorrupted by the vices
of ftrangers, abftained from eating calves fleſh, as an unclean
food, even to his days. The women relations, if they are in-
vited, never dine at table with the men, it being an eſtabliſhed
cuſtom
* At in noftra Provincia fcelus putant vitulos devorare. D. Hier. contra Jovin
+ Ad hanc diem Dalmatæ, quos peregrina vitia non infecere, ab efu vitulorum
non fecus ac ab immunda efca abhorrent. Jo. Tom. Marn. in op. ined. de Illy-
rica, Cæfaribusque Illyricis.
[ 73 ]
cuſtom for them to dine by themſelves. After dinner, they paſs the
reſt of the day in dancing, finging ancient fongs, and in
and in games of
dexterity, or of wit, and fancy; and in the evening, at a con-
venient hour after fupper, the three ritual healths having firſt
gone round, the Knum accompanies the bridegroom to the ma-
trimonial apartment, which commonly is the cellar, or the ſta-
ble, whither the bride is alfo conducted by the Diveri, and the
Stacheo; but the three laſt are obliged to retire, and the Knum
remains alone with the new married couple. If there happens
to be any bed prepared better than ftraw, he leads them to it,
and having untied the bride's girdle, he caufes them both to un-
dreſs each other reciprocally. It is not long fince the Knum
was obliged to undreſs the bride entirely, but that cuſtom is
now out of uſe; and, inſtead of it, he has the privilege of kiff-
ing her as often as he pleaſes, wherever he meets her; which
privilege may poffibly be agreeable for the firft months, but
muſt foon become very difguftful. When they are both un-
dreffed, the Knum retires, and ſtands liſtening at the door, if
there be a door. It is his buſineſs to announce the confum-
mation of the marriage, which he does, by difcharging a piſtol,
and is anſwered by many of the company. The next day, the
bride, without her veil, and virginal cap, dines at table with
the Svati, and is forced to hear the coarſe equivocal jefts of her
indelicate, and fometimes intoxicated company.
}
Theſe nuptial feafts, called Sdrave by the ancient Huns, are
by our Morlacchi called Sdravize, from whence our Italian word
Stravizzo is undoubtedly derived. They continue three, fix,
eight or more days, according to the ability or prodigal difpofi-
tion of the family where they are held. The new married wife
gets no inconfiderable profit in theſe days of joy. And it uſually
L
amounts
[
( 74 )
}
amounts to much more than all the portion fhe brings with her
which often confifts of nothing but her own cloaths, and perhaps
a cow; nay, it happens, fometimes, that the parents, inſtead
of giving money with their daughter, get fomething from the
bridegroom by way of price. The bride carries water every
morning, to waſh the hands of her gueſts, as long as the feafting
laſts; and each of them throws a ſmall piece of money into the
bafon, after performing that function, which is a very rare one
among them, excepting on fuch occafions. The brides are alfo
permitted to raiſe other little contributions among the Svati, by
hiding their ſhoes, caps, knives, or fome other neceffary part of
their equipage, which they are obliged to ranfom by a piece
of money, according as the company rates it. And, beſides all
theſe voluntary, or extorted contributions already mentioned,
each gueſt muſt give ſome preſent to the new married wife, at
taking leave the last day of the Sdravize, and then ſhe alfo diftri-
butes fome trifles in return, which commonly confifts in fhirts,
caps, handkerchiefs, and fuch like.
1
The nuptial rites are almoft pecifely the fame through all
the vast country inhabited by the Morlacchi; and thoſe in ufe
among the peaſants, and common people of the fea coſt of Dal-
matia, Iftria, and the iſlands, differ but little from them. Yet
among theſe particular varieties, there is one of the ifland Zlarine,
near Sebenico, remarkable enough; for there, the Stari-fuat
(who may naturally be fuppofed drunk at that hour) muft, at:
one blow, with his naked broad fword, ftrike the bride's crown
of flowers off her head, when the is ready to go to bed. And
in the iſland of Pago, in the village of Novogla, (probably the
Giffa of ancient Geographers) there is a cuſtom more comical,
and leſs dangerous, but equally favage and brutal. After the
marriage
[ 75 ]
1
+86
marriage contract is fettled, and the bridegroom comes to con-
duct his bride to church; her father, or mother, in delivering
her over to him, makes an exaggerated enumeration of her ill
qualities; 'Know, fince thou wilt have her, that ſhe is good for
nothing, ill natured, obftinate, &c." On which the bridegroom,
affecting an angry look, turns to the young woman, with an
"Ah! fince it is fo, I will teach you to behave better;" and
at the fame time regales her with a blow, or a kick, or fome
piece of fimilar gallantry, which is by no means figurative.
And it feems in general, that the Morlack women, and perhaps
the greateſt part of the Dalmatians, the inhabitants of the cities
excepted, do not diſlike a beating, either from their husbands,
or lovers.
In the neigbourhood of Dernish, the women are obliged,
during the first year after marriage, to kiss all their national
acquaintances who come to the houſe, but after the firſt
year, they are difpenfed from that compliment, and, indeed,
they become ſo intolerably nafty, that they are no longer fit to
practiſe it. Perhaps the mortifying manner in which they are
treated by their huſbands, and relations, is, at the fame time,
both the cauſe and effect of this shameful neglect of their per-
fons. When a Morlack huſband mentions his wife, he always
premifes, by your leave, or begging your pardon. And when
the hufband has a bedſtead, the wife muſt ſleep on the floor
›near it. I have often lodged in Morlack houſes, and obſerved,
that the female fex is univerfally treated with contempt; it is
true, that the women are by no means amiable in that country;
they even deform, and ſpoil the gifts of nature.
The
2
[ 26 ]
The pregnancy and births of thoſe women, would be thought very
extraordinary among us, where the ladies fuffer fo much, notwith
ftanding all the care, and circumspection used before, and after
labour. On the contrary, a Morlack woman neither changes
her food, nor interrupts her daily fatigue, on account of her
pregnancy; and, is frequently delivered in the fields, or on the
road, by herfelf; and takes the infant, wafhes it in the firft
water fhe finds, carries it home and returns the day after to
her uſual labour, or to feed her flock. The cuſtom of the na-
tion is invariable in waſhing the new-born infants in cold water
and the Morlacchi may juftly fay of themſelves what the ancient
inhabitants of Italy did :.
f
Durum a ftirpe genus natos ad flumina primum·
Deferimus, fevoque gelu duramus, et undis.
}
له
{
>
And it is certain that the cold bath produces not fuch bad ef-
fects on infants, as Machard pretends ;* who condemns the pres
fent cuſtom of the Scotch and Irifh, as prejudicial to the nerves,
and derives the immerſions of the ancient Germans from fuper-
ſtition and ignorance..
t
The little creatures, thus careleſsly treated in their tendereft
moments, are afterwards wrapt in miferable rags, where they
remain three or four months, under the fame ungentle manage-
ment; and when that term is elapfed, they are fet at liberty,.
and left to crawl about the cottage, and before the door, tilk
they learn to walk upright by themfelves; and at the fame
time acquire that fingular degree of ſtrength, and health with
which the Morlacchi are endowed, and are able, without the
leaft
Memoires de la Soc. Oecon. de Berne, an. 1764. iii partie..
·
[ 77 ]
leaft inconvenience, to expofe, their naked breafts. to, the fevereft
froft and fnow. The infants are allowed to fuck, their mother's
milk while he has any, or till ſhe is with child again, and if
that ſhould not happen for three, four, or fix years, they con-
tinue all that time to receive nourishment from the breaft.
The prodigious length of the breafts of the Morlacchian wo-
men is ſomewhat extraordinary; for it is very certain, that they
can give the teat to their children over their fhoulders, or un-
der their arms. They let the boys run about, without breeches,
in a ſhirt that reaches only to the knee, till the age of thirteen
or fourteen, following the cuſtom of Boſſina, fubject to the Porte,
where no Haraz, or capitation tax is paid. for the boys till
they wear breeches, they being confidered before that time as
children, not capable of labouring, or of earning their bread.
On the occafion of births, and especially of the firft,. all. the
relations, and friends, fend preſents of eatables to the woman in
childbed, or rather, to the woman. delivered; and the family
makes a fupper of all thofe prefents together. The women do
not enter the church till forty days after child birth.
The Morlacchi paſs their youth in the woods, attending their
flocks and herds, and in that life of quiet, and leifure, they
often become dexterous. in carving with a fimple knife; they
make wooden cups, and whiftles adorned with fanciful baff-
reliefs, which are not void of merit, and at leaſt fhew the genius
of the people..
Of the Food of the MORLACCHI.
Milk coagulated in various ways, is the ordinary nouriſhment
of the Morlacchi; they fometimes give it an agreeable acid by
the infufion of vinegar, whereby the curd becomes extremely
ree-
[ 78 ]
refreſhing; and the whey is their favourite common drink, `nor
is it at all unpleaſant to a ſtranger's tafte. When a gueſt arrives
unexpectedly, their readieſt and beſt diſh, is new cheeſe fried
with butter. They are not much accuſtomed to bread backed
after our manner, but they make cakes of millet, barley, Indian
corn, and fometimes of wheat, which they bake, or toast on
the hearth every day, for prefent ufe; but wheaten bread is
hardly ever ſeen in the cottages of the poor. They make a large
provifion of our cabbages, like thoſe uſed in Germany; and
roots, and all kinds of efculent herbs, which they find in the
woods, or in the fields, ferve them for a cheap and falutary
diet. But garlick, and fhalots are the food moft univerfally
pleafing to that people, next to roaft meat, which is their moſt
luxurious diſh. I remember to have read fomewhere, that Stilpo,
being reproved for going to the temple of Ceres, after having
eaten garlick, which was forbid, anfwered; "give me fome-
"thing better, and I will leave it off." But the Morlacchi
would not accept even of that condition; and if they did ſo, it
is more than probable they would repent it: for it is reafon-
able to think, that the constant uſe of theſe plants, corrects in
part, the bad quality of their water, and contributes to keep
them long healthy, and robuft. Nothing is more common
in that country, then to fee very old men, ftrong, active and
lively to an extraordinary degree; and I am inclined to think
that this is partly owing to the garlick, and their regular
vegetable diet. Yet, notwithſtanding the large quantity of
onions, garlick, and fhalots which the Marlacchi confume,
it is wonderful to obferve, that in their own vaft, and rich
fields, not one of thefe articles is produced; and thus they find
themſelves obliged, year after year, to give away no inconfider-
able fum to the peple of Ancona, and Rimini, which might fo
eafily be faved. It would certainly be a falutary violence, or
+
rather
[ 79 ]
rather an act of paternal charity, to force them to cultivate thoſe
products, without which they cannot live, and which require fo
fmall a degree of induſtry. It would perhaps be looked upon
with derifion, if on this occafion, premiums were offered them to
ferve themſelves; and yet, that is doubtless the beft, and eaſieſt
way of improving agriculture.
A late governor-general of Dalmatia introduced and encourag-
ed the cultivation of hemp in Morlacchia, and it ſucceeded well;
but the publick encouragement not continuing, induſtry alſo de-
cayed, and now only a ſmall voluntary cultivation goes on,
which nevertheleſs ſomewhat diminiſhes the fum required
to purchaſe foreign linen, and maintains a few looms in the
country.
Many a Macrobius is to be found in Morlachia, eſpecially on
the brows of hills, where the purity of the air joined to frugality,
and a laborious life, lengthens out old age without infirmity,
Yet I did not find, nor indeed enquire after a Dandon ;* though
I thought I faw more than one old man who might be com-
pared to the old English Parr; but the Morlacchi are fo care-
lefsly ignorant, that they can give no account of their own age,
long before they come to that period of their exiſtence.
Of the Utenfils, Cottages, Cloaths, and Arms of the MORLACCHI.
A Morlack in eafy circumftances has no other bed than a
coarſe blanket made of goats hair, and of Turkiſh manufac-
ture; very few of the richest people in the country have fuch
a piece of luxurious furniture as a bed after our faſhion; and
there are not many who have fo much as a bedſtead ; which
however, when they happen to get made in their rough man-
·
ner,
Alex. Cornelius memorat Dandonem Illyricum D. annos vixiffe Plin. 1. 7. c. 48.
[ 80 ]
t
ner, they fleep in, between two goat hair blankets, without
ſheets, or any other bedding. The greateſt part of the inhabitants,
content themſelves with the bare ground, wrapt in the uſual
blanket, and only fometimes a little ftraw under it. But in
fummer they chufe to fleep in the open air, perhaps to be'de-
livered from the domeftick infects. Their houshold furniture
confifts of few, and fimple articles, fuch as fhepherds, and
peaſants, little advanced in arts, require. Their houſes are not
often covered with tiles, or flates; and when they have any
beams intended to fupport a fecond floor, the family's wardrobe
is placed on them, and may be imagined well provided where
there is ſo much magnificence; yet the ladies fleep on the
floor, even in fuch noble houſes. I have been lodged in one of
them, where ſeveral of theſe women were grinding corn till
paſt midnight, fcreaming certain diabolical fongs, in the
fame place where I was laid to fleep, and where ten others
were ſtretched on the ground, and actually faft aſleep, not-
withſtanding their frightful vociferation. The Morlacchi,
who have little or no correfpondence with the fea towns,
and are at a great diſtance from them, have feldom any other
houfes but cottages covered with ftraw, or zimble; fo they cam
a kind of laths, ufed inftead of tiles. The animals inhabit the
fame cottage, divided from the maſters, by a flight partition
made of twigs, and plaiſtered with clay, and the dung of cattle;
the walls of the cottage are either of the fame materials, or of
large ftones laid one upon another, without cement.
The fire place ftands in the middle of the cottage, and the
ſmoke finds its way out at the door, there being rarely any
other aperture. Hence every thing within theſe wretched ha-
bitations is varniſhed with black, and loathfome with fmoke;
not excepting the milk, which forms a great part of their fufte-
nance,
[ 81 ]
nance, and of which they are very liberal to ftrangers. Their
cloaths, perfons, and every thing, in fhort, contract the fame
ſmokey ſmell. The whole family fits round this fire place, in the
cold ſeaſon; and, when they have fupped, lay themſelves down
to fleep in the fame place where they fat at fupper; for, in
every cottage, they have not even benches to fit, and to lie upon.
They burn butter inftead of oil, in their lamps; but for the
moft part they uſe pieces of cleft fir, in lieu of candles, the
ſmoke of which fometimes tinges their muftaches curiouſly.
A very few rich Morlacchi have houfes in the Turkish fashion,
with ſtools, and fome few of our moveables; but in general,
the richest of them live but a favage kind of life. Although
they have no idea of cleanlineſs in their habitations, yet, in
one refpect, they are nicer than we are; nor do they fail to re-
proach us on that account, and call us barbarous, and beaftly;
and it is a real fact, that no man, nor woman of that nation,
let the diſorder be ever fo fevere, or painful, was ever known
to eaſe nature within the cottage; even dying perfons are carried
out to perform that operation in the open air; and if a ſtranger
ſhould, through ignorance, or contempt, pollute their houſe in
that manner, he would fcarcely eſcape with his life, and cer-
tainly not without very ill treatment.
A Morlacco cloaths himſelf with great plainnefs, and œcono-
my. The Opanke ferve for fhoes, both to men and women, and
under them they wear a kind of ſhort woolen ſtocking, called
Navlakaza, which reaches above the ankle, and joins to the
breeches, whereby all the leg is covered. The breeches are of
coarſe white ſerge, and they draw them tight about their waiſt,
like a purſe, by means of a woollen ftring. Their fhirt is very
ſhort, and over it they wear a fhort doublet, which they call
Facerma, and in winter they add a kind of ſhort cloak, made
M
of
[82]
►
of very coarſe red cloth, and call it Kabaniza, or Japungia. On
their head they wear a red cloth cap, and above it, a fort of
cylindrical turban called Kalpak. They fhave their heads, leav-
ing only a ſmall tuft behind, like the Poles and Tartars. They
bind their loins with a strong reticular fillet of woollen yarn,
and fometimes of filk: and in this fillet, or bandage, and their
breeches, they carry all their neceffary implements; fuch as,
one or two piſtols ftuck in behind, and before, a very large
knife, which they call Hanzar, with the handle of brafs, fet
round with falfe ftones. This knife is often made faft to a light
brafs chain rolled about the bandage; and near it is placed a
horn, with greafe for their arms, or for themſelves. Next fol-
lows a little bag with their tinder box, and money, if they have
any; and then their tobacco in a dried bladder. The tobacco
pipe is placed behind, the reed ftuck in below their fhirt, and
the bowl appears without. No Morlacco ever goes out of doors
without his gun upon his fhoulder.
A
The chiefs of the nation, however, are better dreffed; and
their good taste in cloaths may be ſeen by plate IV. which re-
preſents my good landlord of Coccorich.
Of their Mufick and Poetry, Dances and Diverfions.
The Morlacchi have their ruftick affemblies, eſpecially in
houfes where there are feveral young women; and in theſe the
memory of ancient national ſtories is perpetuated. A muſician
always attends theſe meetings, and fings the old pime or fongs,
accompanying them with an inftrument called guzla, which has
but one ſtring, compoſed of many horſe hairs. The tune, to
which thefe heroic fongs are fung, is extremely mournful, and
monotonous, befides, they bring the found a little through the
nofe, which agrees perfectly well with their inſtrument; the
verfes
[ 83 ]
verſes of the moſt ancient traditional fongs are of ten fyllables,
not rhimed. Their poetry does not want ſtrength of expreffion,
but the ſmalleſt ray of imagination rarely appears in it, and the
little that is attempted is feldom happy. Yet thofe fongs have a
great effect on the minds of the hearers, who are at pains to get
them by heart; and I have feen fome of them figh, and weep
at a paffage, which did not appear to me the leaft moving. Per-
haps the force of the Illyric words, better underſtood by the
Morlacchi, might produce this effect; and perhaps, as feems
to me more probable, their artlefs minds, little ftored with ideas,
might more readily be affected with any turn of expreffion that
appeared to them extraordinary. That kind of fimplicity, and
want of order, which are frequently feen in the ancient Proven-
cal Romancers, form, in general, the principal character of the
Morlacchian poetry. Yet they have fome pieces not deficient
in point of order; only, whoever reads, or hears them, muſt
be contented to fupply the want of detail, and precifion, which
the Morlacchi neglect, and which are carefully attended to by
the civilized nations of Europe, in all compofitions, whether in
proſe, or verſe. I could find none of their fongs of well authen-
ticated date, before the fourteenth century; and I fear the rea-
fon is analogous to that, by which we loft fo many Greek and
Latin books, in the times of religious barbarifm. I fuſpect,
nevertheless, that fomething more ancient might be found, fur-
ther within the country, among the Merediti, and the inhabi-
tants of the Clementine mountains, who lead a paftoral life, fe-
parated entirely from the commerce of other nations. But, who
can flatter himſelf to be able to penetrate with fafety among
thoſe unfociable, and favage tribes? I confefs, I fhould like
fuch a journey, and want not courage to attempt it; not only
with the view of diſcovering ancient pieces of poetry, but to be-
come
•
↑
[ 84 ]
become acquainted with the natural history of thofe countries,
hitherto undefcribed and unknown; and alfo with a view to
diſcover ſome rare Greek, or Roman antiquities: but too many
things are wanting to put fuch a project in execution.ab
*
I have tranflated feveral heroic fongs of the Morlacchi, and
fome of them appear to me both well conducted and inte-
reſting; but I very readily allow, that they cannot be put in
competition with the poems of the celebrated Scotch bard,
which we have lately had the pleaſure of feeing tranſlated
into our language, with true poetical fpirit, by the Abbé Ce-
farotti, and republiſhed in a more complete form, through
the generous bounty of a noble countryman of the bard, who
patronizes learning in all parts of Europe. Yet the Mor-
lack poetry is not deftitute of merit
is not deftitute of merit; and has, at leaſt, the fim-
plicity of Homer's times, and ſerves to illuftrate the manners of
the nation. The Illyrian language is alfo well adapted to poetry,
and mufick; being harmonious, and abounding with vowels
and yet
it is almost totally abandoned, even by the civilized na-
tions who ſpeak it. Ovid, when he lived among the Slavi on:
the Black Sea, condefcended to exercife his poetical talent, by:
writing verfes in their language, and gained applauſe from thoſe
favages; but his Roman pride returning, he was afhamed of
having profaned the Latin harmony.* The city of Ragufi has
produced many elegant poets, and fome poeteffes in the Illyrian.
tongue; and among them Giovanni Gondola is much celebrated;
3
*
nor
* Ah! pudet, et Getico fcripfi fermone libellum,
Structaque funt noftris barbara verba modis.
Et placui (gratare mihi) cæpique Poetæ
Inter humanos nomen habere Getas,
De Pont. iv. Ep. 13
[885
}
nor were the other cities, and iflands of Dalmatia without their
poets; but the many Italianiſms now introduced into their dialects
have corrupted the ancient fimplicity of the language. Even
the dialect of the Morlacchi is become equally barbarous, and
full of foreign words, and phrafes, as I am informed by thoſe
who have a perfect knowledge of the language, and particularly
by Matteo Sovich, archdeacon of Offero, the most learned man
of that country. Yet, I confefs, that the Boſnian dialect, ſpoken
by the inland Morlacchi, is more harmonious, in my opinion,
than the littoral Illyrian; but I hope not to incur the diſpleaſure
of the maritime Dalmatians by this declaration, as I do not pre-
tend to be a competent judge of the matter.-Let. us, if you
pleafe, return to the fongs.
-
A Morlacco travels along the defert mountains finging, efpe-
cially in the night time, the actions of ancient Slavi Kings, and
barons, or fome tragic event; and if another happens to be tra-
velling on a neighbouring mountain, he repeats the fame verſe,
when the other has fung it, and this alternation continues, as
long as they can hear each other. A loud, and long howl,
which is an ob! barbarously modulated, conftantly precedes
the verfe, the words of which are pronounced rapidly, almoſt
without any modulation, which is all reſerved for the laſt fylla-
ble, and ends with another long howl, by way of trill, raiſed i
louder and louder, while the breath lafts..
Although the Morlacchi ufually fing their ancient fongs, yet
other poetry is not altogether extinguifhed among them ; and ›
their muſicians, after finging an ancient piece, accompanied
with the guzla, fometimes finish it with fome extempore verſes,
in praiſe of the perfonage by whom they are employed; and
fome
:
[86]
fome of them are capable of finging extempore during the whole
entertainment; always accompanying the voice with the guzla.
There is alfo fome written poetry among them, when the me-
mory of a fignal event happens to be preferved in that manner.
The whifle, or flagelet, and a kind of paſtoral bag-pipe, are
the common muſical inftruments among the Morlacchi. Thefe
traditional fongs contribute much to maintain the ancient cuf-
toms; hence, their rites, games, and dances are derived from
very remote originals.
Their games and diverfions almost all confift in trials of
ftrength, or agility; fuch as, leaping, running, or flinging a
large heavy ſtone. They dance to the found of the bag-pipe,
and the voices of their fingers, a favourite dance, which they
call kolo, or circle, which foon turns into fkocci-gofi, that is,
high dancing, All the dancers, men, and women, taking hold
of each other's hands, form a circle, and turn flowly round, to
the harſh notes of the inftrument. Then the circle changes its
form, fometimes into an elipfis, and fometimes a fquare, ac-
cording as the dance becomes more animated; and, at laſt,
´transforms itſelf into the moſt violent fprings and leaps, in which
the women alſo join, and the whole becomes wild confufion.
The Morlacchi have an incredible tranfport for this rude dance,
for neither the fatigues of the day, nor a long journey, nor hun-
ger itself can detain them from it, or from continuing feveral
hours, with very little intermiffion, in fuch a violent exerciſe.
On the medical Art among the MORLACCHI.
}
It happens frequently enough, that inflammatory fevers are
the immediate confequences of thefe violent dances juſt men-
tioned;
[ 87 ]
tioned; in which cafe, and in all others of the like nature,
the Morlacchi do not apply to the phyfician, becauſe, happily
for them, there is none of that profeffion among them, but cure
themſelves, after their own way. A large draught of a ſpirituous
liquor, which they call rakia, is commonly their firft medicinal
potion; and if that does not effectuate the cure, they repeat the
dofe, together with a large infufion of pepper, or gun powder.
After this, they cover themfelves up, in winter; or lie down
in the hotteſt rays of the fun, if in fummer, to fweat the illness, as
they expreſs it. Their cure for
Their cure for agues, is more methodical;
the firſt and ſecond day, they take a glass of wine, in which as
much pepper as they can take up between their finger and
thumb, has been infufed for feveral hours; and the third
and fourth day, the doze is doubled; and I have actually feen
more than one Morlacco perfectly cured by this ftrange febri-
fuge. Their remedy for obſtructions is to lay a large flat ſtone
on the fick perfon's belly; and for rheumatiſms, they uſe a
moſt violent friction, which, at leaſt, renders the patient's back
quite livid, and fometimes ftrips off the ſkin. Sometimes, they
apply a red hot ſtone, wrapt in wet rags, for rheumatic pains;
and they uſe to drink a great quantity of vinegar, to recover
their appetite, after a long ſeries of fevers. But the laft remedy
of all, which is taken only in. defperate cafes, is fugar, when
they can find any; and they put it into the mouths of dying
perfons, to make them paſs into the other world with leſs bit-
terneſs. Criptamus and Chamephitis are uſed for articular pains,
and they frequently apply horfe leeches to the ſwelled, or aching
parts. They apply a red ochrous earth, frequently found in the
fields, as the beſt remedy for excoriations, or wounds; and the
fame uſe is made of it in fome parts of Bohemia, and Mifnia,
where
[ 88 ]
where that earth abounds.* Grifelius, who takes notice of this
practice, had tried the experiment often with fuccefs upon him-
felf; as I have alfo done in Dalmatia. The Morlacchi are very
dexterous in ſetting diflocated, or broken bones, without hav-
ing ſtudied oſteology like our furgeons, who, notwithſtanding,
lame us frequently, by the rules of art. They perform phlebo-
tomy with an inftrument like that uſed for horſes, and yet there
is no example of any bad accident happening by that coarſe ope-
ration.
Funerals of the MORLACCHI.
The family weeps and howls over the dead, while they
lie in the houfe, and when they are carried out to be bu-
ried, much in the fame manner as with us. But the Mor-
lacchi have feveral cuftoms peculiar to themſelves, on theſe
occafions; fuch as, whispering in the ear of the dead per-
fon, and giving exprefs commiffions for the other world. After
this ceremony is finished, the body is covered with a white
cloath, and carried to church, where the lamentations begin
anew, and the praiſes of the deceaſed are ſung, by the relations,
or others appointed for that purpofe, weeping. After the corpfe
is buried, the whole company, together with the curate, re-
turns to the houſe, where there is a ſtrange mixture of feafting,
and lamentation. The men let their beards grow a long time,
in fign of mourning; a cuſtom derived from the Jews, as is.
that of unleavened bread, purifications, and ſeveral others. Vi-
olet or blue coloured caps are alſo the mark of mourning. The
women wear black or blue handkerchiefs, and cover all the red
of.
* Suppl. A&t. Nat. Curiof. Dec. 1. an. 2. Obf. 78.
[ 89 ]
During the firſt year,
to renew their lamen-
of their garments with ſomething black.
the Morlack women go, every holiday,
tation, ftrowing flowers, and fweet herbs
upon the grave. And
if neceffarily detained from that vifit, they, next time, make a
formal excufe to the dead, giving a minute account of the cauſe of
their neglect. They alſo frequently aſk news about the other world,
and propoſe many curious interrogations. All theſe ceremonies
are fung in a kind of verfe, in a doleful tone; and fometimes
the girls accompany the women, in order to learn theſe funeral
arts, and form a concert truly diſmal.
Thus I have laid before your Excellency. the moſt remarkable
cuſtoms of a people hitherto little known to the different nations.
of Europe.----I will not affirm, that the account I have given
of their manners and cuſtoms agrees exactly with every village,
and diſtrict of the Morlacchi; yet, as I have travelled over a very.
large tract of their country, and through diſtant parts of it, I
can venture to affirm, that the differences are but fmall; and I
fhall think the pains and labour I have taken well beſtowed
fhould this account contribute to your entertainment, and that
of the public.
1
N
[ 9 ]
gr
GAV.
TO THE
ANTONIO
VALLISNIERI,
PROFESSOR OF NATURAL HISTORY,
IN THE
UNIVERSITY OF PADUA.
Of the Courfe of the River KERKA, the TITIUS of the Ancients.
TH
HE neceffity of travelling at random through a vaſt king-
dom, where every part of natural hiſtory is ſtill unknown,
has, as you will eafily imagine, made me lofe much time and
labour. The want of perfons capable of furniſhing any uſeful
intelligence, is the greateſt inconvenience that I have met with;
not that the maritime towns of Dalmatia are deftitute of men of
talents, and learning, but the ſtudy of natural hiſtory is not yet
introduced among them, and therefore they are of little ufe to
the curious in that branch of fcience. Hence it is, that not
having a convenient number of fixed points to which I could
direct my journies, I have been obliged to trace out the line
myſelf, or to follow thofe already marked by nature, fometimes
along the windings of the fhore, and fometimes following the
courſe of the rivers within land.
Of
[ 92 ]
Of the true Sources of the River KERKA.
One of the rivers which I have followed with the greateſt at-
tention, is the Titius of the ancients, now called Kerka or
Karka, by the people of the country; it was, in Roman
times, the boundary between Liburnia and Dalmatia. The
fources of this river are marked in all the maps, much farther up
than they really are; and even the most accurate chorographers of
Dalmatia have confounded with the channel of the Kerka, a
torrent which falls into it from a precipice, conveying the even-
tual waters of a moderate extent of rocky mountains, known
by the inhabitants under the name of Herfuvaz. This ridge of
Herfuvaz joins the bottom of the mountain Dinara with that of
Gnat, and divides the plains watered by the Cettina, which is
the Tiburus of the geographers, from the extenfive vallies that
are watered by the Titius.
This river forms itſelf into a large channel, within a
hundred paces of the cavern from whence it iffues. The up-
per bed of which carries off the mountain, waters, is
thirty feet wide, but it has only a ſhort ſpace to ruâ
before it comes to Tapolye. * This torrent brings along with it
great quantities of a calcarious earth, which has a coagulating
quality, producing tartarious concretions. The ſtone of the
Kerka, compofed by theſe mountain waters, is a beautiful fpe-
cies of Phytotypolithus, fometimes more, and fometimes lefs
compact, in proportion to the greater or leffer declivity of the
waters by which it is formed; and retains the impreffions of
various
* Tapolye has its denomination from the poplars which are common there ;
the popular being called Tapola in Illyric.
[ 93 ]
various plants, which ufually grow in marshes and rivers, or on
their banks. * This kind of tartarous concretion is not only
curious but uſeful, being very convenient for building either
walls or arches, as it is eafily worked, refifts the action of the
air and is not weighty. The torrent juſt mentioned as having
its courſe higher than what can properly be called the fource of
the Kerka, is not a permanent ftream; for towards the middle
of Auguſt, when I faw it, the cataract from whence it falls was
nearly dry. The height of the upper part of this cataract, above
the bed of the Kerka, where it iffues out of the cavern, is about
a hundred feet perpendicular; and when it is full of water, muſt
make a magnificent appearance, The ridge of the precipice is
of a kind of fand-ſtone coated with long graſs and mofs; and
is curved, forming as it were an arch, under which are feveral
cool grottos, all narrow at the entrance, and entirely de-
fended from the fun. The fides of the mountain which
form the banks of the Kerka in that place, are all turned upfide
down, and fhew the moſt extravagant confufion in their ſtratifi-
cations. They are ſteep and in fome places perpendicular; the
marble is of the common whitiſh kind. Sometimes there are
pieces of a very hard ſpotted or compound Lava, which ſtrikes
fire and is of a dark afh colour. I there obferved again the ſame
phænomenon which before ftruck me, in the ride from Spalatro
to Cliffa, on the fides of the mountain, where I ſaw at a diſtance
the
容
​*Stalactites vegetabilia incruftans. Linn. Syft. Nat.
Porus aquæ crustaceus circa alia corporà concretus. Wall.
The bodies of the plants rot after the incruſtation, and there remains nothing
but the impreffion on the ftone,
篇
​[ 94 ]
•
}
the borders of feveral ftrata, that feemed to defcribe arches of a
circle with the extremities turned upwards. This phenomenon
was ſtill more complicated at Tapolye, where not only one or-
der of arches appears, but frequently two deferibed one above
the other upon the fame bafe; and they are reunited at their
internal extremities, fomething like a houſe top, pointed or hor-
ned as it were, after the Chineſe manner. The reſt of the
mountain is all disjointed; and the bed of the caſcade is uneven,
craggy, and ruinous.
and ruinous. The waters of the Kerka iffue out below
from a dark cavern in great abundance. I was tempted to
explore this cavern, and accordingly got into a little boat,
ſomewhat like an American canoe, provided with lighted chips
of pine, accompanied by my friend Mr. Hervey. We were
not wholly unſucceſsful, though we had great difficulty to
defend ourſelves from the tartarous protuberances of the vault,
and to puſh forward againſt the current; our lights were foon
extinguiſhed, by the quantity of little drops, which conftantly
fell from the rocks above; and advancing to a place, where the
river falls with great noife, through a narrow and ſteep channel,
we found our boat to be in danger of overfetting, by taking in
too much watter. We retreated, and advanced more than once;
and I make no doubt, that, had our boat been better contrived,
and fitted out for the purpoſe, we ſhould have proceeded much
further, and, perhaps, have been able to walk on the ſubterra-
neous banks of the river. It is to be remarked, that the moun-
tains of Tapolye make a part of the fame marble chain, as thoſe
of Jarebiza, from whence the river Cettina iffues in an oppofite
direction. There are corn mills on the Kerka, at a very little
diſtance from its fource; the wheels are placed horizontally,
and the radii ſhaped like fpoons. Theſe kind of wheels, which
are very convenient where there is little water, may be feen among
the
[ 95 ]
the machines deſcribed by the bishop Faufto Veranzio of Se-
benico.
Of the VULCANIC HILLS, which lie between TAPOLYE and
KNIN.
The diſtance from Tapolye to Knin is five miles, either by
land or water. In travelling along the heights, I ſaw many
ruinous maſſes, and confiderable tracts of gravelly breccia. From
thence, deſcending along the river, after a fecond vifit to the
caſcade, we ſtopped at two little hills, oppofite to each other;
the one of common marble, and gravel hardened into breccia,
the other moſtly vulcanic. The laft, called Capitul, merits ob-
ſervation, on account of the great variety of vulcanic matter
contained in it. Amongst other kinds, there is a very light whi-
tiſh ſtone, with a mixture of yellow mica, manifeftly produced
by fubterraneous fire, and which, though not perforated, I think,
may be named a micaceous kind of pumice stone, confidering its
poroſity, lightneſs, and vulcanic origin. Examined with the
microſcope, it appears compofed of fmall vitreſcent ſemifluxed fand,
and ſeems to confift of the fame principles, as an excellent fort
of tripoli, of which I found a vein at the bottom of the fame
hill. There are alſo ferruginous ſcoriæ, black and
porous; fand
ftones, both red and yellow; a kind of arenaceous breccia, of a
violet coloured ground, fpotted with white; a fpecies of mica-
ceous flate;* heaps of pozzolana, of a reddiſh colour, confoli-
dated
*
* Mica fquamofa alba. Wall. fect. 74. 3.
Mica fquamofa, rigidula, argentata. Linn. 58. 3.
Mica compacta, membranis fquamofis, àrgentea. Wolterfdorff. min. 17.
[ 96 ]
dated almoſt to the hardneſs of ſtone;* and many ftones refem-
bling porphyry, which retain manifeſt marks of ancient fufion.
This hill of Capitul, in regard to the fubftances of which it is
compoſed, as well as in its form, bears a great reſemblance to
Monte-Nuovo, which ſtands infolated near our other Euganean
hills of vulcanic origin. But Capitul contains ftill a greater variety
of different fubftances than Monte-Nuovo. On the fummit of the
hill, are ſcattered pieces of breccia, here and there, and on all
the neighbouring vulcanic hills, to the right of the river, as far
as the ſmall town of Knin, which has the title of a bishoprick,.
but not the refidence. This town is thought, by most of the
writers on Illyric affairs, to be the Arduba of the ancients, fa-
mous, not fo much for the defence it made against Germanicus,
as for the untameable courage of the women, who rather choſe:
to throw themſelves and children into the fire, or the river, than.
become flaves to the victorious Romans.
Concerning KNIN, MONTE CAVALLO and VERBNIK
No place is now found on either of the rivers, Kerka, or Cet-
tina, that agrees better than Knin with the defcription given by
Dion Caffius of the caſtle of Arduba.* The river Kerka on one
fide,
* Terra Puteolana rubra. Wall.
Cæmentum induratum. Cronft. 209.
+ Monte-Nuovo of the Euganean hills, feems, by its name, to indicate a poſte--
rior birth. The fubftance of which it is compofed, demonftrates its origin from
fubterraneous fire, like the Monte-Nuovo of Pozzuoli.
In the publick records, it is called Tnin, Tnina, Tninium, and Tnena.
The name of Knin, or Klin is perhaps derived from Klin, euneu, as it actually.
ftands on the point of a neck of land
* "Germanicus alſo took Arduba, a caſtle
very ſtrong, and al-
moſt entirely furrounded by a rapid river running at the foot of it. Dion Caffius-
tib. 56.
[ 97 ]
fide, and the Butim fchiza on the other, water the narrow
reck of land, on which the prefent caftle ftands. But the hiſ-
torian mentions only one river, and not a confluence of two,
and calls it rapid, which agrees not with the Kerka, which at
preſent runs under the walls of Knin, with a very flow and
gentle courfe.
As no pains are taken to keep this river within its banks, it
often overflows them, and forms a marsh directly under Knin,
which renders the air unhealthy in the neighbourhood. I faw
no antiquities of any kind there, excepting Roman coins, of
which there are many, and eſpecially of the times of the good
Emperor Antoninus. Ancient Venetian coins, and thoſe of
other cities and ftates, of the middle age, are frequently found
in theſe parts.
Over againſt Knin, on the other fide of the Kerka, ftands
the hill called Monte Cavallo, at the bottom of which, the Cof-
fovfchiza falls into the Kerka; the waters of the former défcend
from the vulcanic hills of Coffovo, the lower parts of which
are covered with turf, but it lies there uſeleſs.
Not many years ago, a canal was cut, with a view to draw off
the water, which overflows theſe plains; but the work being aban-
doned too foon, that good intention was not answered. Monte
Cavallo is now almoſt quite uncultivated, though there is a tra-
dition at Knin, that, in paſt ages, it was famous for its exqui
fite wine; as was alfo Verbnik, a hill contiguous to it. On
this laſt hill, many kinds of vulcanic fübftances may be col-
lected ; among which, a reddish, brick coloured ftone, mixed
with a vetrified black and fhining iron fand, is remarkable.
The top of the hill is of a calcareous afh coloured ftone, very:
compact,
O
E 98 ↑
J
<
compact, and full of marine bodies, like thofe of the Sete
communi in the Vicentine. The high road divides Monte Ca-
vallo from Verbnik; the bottoms of which are of a coarfe
grained porous whitish limestone, tinged with reddiſh ochre.
Half way up the hill, there is an irregular prominent maſs of a
friable inferior fort of granite, which feems to extend from its
bowels, in a direction towards the contiguous hill. The breadth
of this mafs above ground is about two hundred feet; the fo-
lidity of the fubftance is unequal, but always lefs than that of
our Paduan granites. I frequently found pieces very much re-
fembling thoſe in the hills of Galzignano, among the fandy
ochrous ftones thrown out by thofe ancient volcanos..
Above this vulcanic matter of Monte Cavallo, there is a ftra-
tum of hard calcareous ſtone, and, above that, another of gra-.
velly breccia at the extremities, is a mixture of calcareo-marine,.
and vulcanic matter. The calcareo-marine mafs, and the ftra-
ta of gravelly breccia, which are alfo of the fame nature, are
much higher than the vulcanic ſubſtances; and if a little tor--
rent, in the courſe of years, had not diſcovered them, it would
ſcarcely have been imagined, that the interior parts of the Verb--
nik had ſuffered by fubterraneous fire; for the confuſion and
disjunction difcernable on the outfide, would not have fhewn
from whence they were derived. Thefe parts are ſtill ſubject to
frequent earthquakes; and, probably, were much more ſo, in
early times; it is not eaſy to conceive, that, without the moſt
violent agitations, whole ftrata of rounded ſtones, which ftill pof--
ſeſs a great part of the heights, could be torn aſunder, and funk;
and that new hills, of a fubftance that had undergone the action
of fire, fhould arife from that abforption; and fometimes that
maffes of ancient gravelly breccia, ſhould be raiſed among them.
The
1
[ 99 ]
The channel of the river must have fuffered great changes, and
one clear indication of it is, the ſteepness and height of the
craggy caſcade of Topolye, from whoſe upper edge, if a line
were drawn, it would reach above the tops of the new hills,
and fall in with the fide of Verbnik. Not far diftant from
Monte Cavallo ſtood the ancient Liburnian city of Promona,
which coft the Romans fo much. The country round it is
very rugged, and it would require time, and great leifure to
collect the remains of antiquity that are ſcattered up and
down. The veftiges of the wall which Auguftus caufſed to
be built by his foldiers, for fifty ftadii of circuit, in order
to cut off the communcation between the Illyrians, who had
fortified themſelves in Promona and their allies of the neigh-
bouring territories, are ſtill to be feen on the tops of thoſe craggy
mountains. The Kerka paffes between Verbnik, and the hill of
Knin, through a narrow and crooked channel, which retards
the current much; and the ftream of Butimſchiza falls into it a
little below, which occafions a further impediment, by the quan
tity of fand and gravel brought along with it, rendering dange-
rous the navigation, which is moreover often interrupted on
this river by caſcades.
Of the confluent Waters, and Courfe of the River KERKA, to
the Monastery of St. ARCANGELO.
The Butimfchiza takes its fource at the foot of the hill of
Stermizza, by the union of three fmall currents, the largest of
which, called Czerni-potok, or the black torrent; after run-
ning nine miles from mount Gelinach, in a winding courſe,
it meets the water of Maracai, arifing out of mount Pliffiviza,
and then after a courfe of fix miles more, enters, together
with
[
I
100 ]
A
J
; · ¦
·
with the ftream of Tifcovci, into the bed of the largeſt torrent.
The Tifcovci, or Tifcovaz, falls into the black torrent a little
further up than the Maracai, proceeding from mount Vulizza,
and traversing the extenfive plains of Sarb and Dugopoglyë;
which the Vulizza. and the hill Trubar divide from the plain of
Grahavo, beyond the Venetian confines; and laſtly, not far from
the heights of Knin, the ſtream Butimfchiza is augmented by
the Plavnanfchiza, a water derived from the hill which com-
mands the plain of Plavno, having firſt received the little torrent
of Radugli-Potok, which, in ſome of the beſt maps, is named
Radiglievaz. The confluence of fo many torrents renders the
Butimſchiza very ftoney; and I am apt to think, that, from
the immenfe quantities of fand and gravel, which, at its
mouth, are carried into the Kerka, occafions the boggy ſtate
of the plain of Knin, which would otherwiſe be very fertile ;-
and I wonder that this has never been remarked, nor at-
tended to by others.. Perhaps the bridge over the torrent, juft
at its entry into the Kerka, contributes alfo, not a little to ac-
cumulate the rubbiſh before mentioned.. This bridge is about
two hundred geometrical paces long, and has ten arches; but
is narrow, ill. paved, and dangerous for horfes, as almoſt all'
the Turkiſh bridges are in theſe parts. It is probable, that, if the
confluence of the Butimſchiza was more properly directed, and
removed ſomewhat lower, the plain of Knin, might, in a great
meafure, be recovered. And I have no doubt, that this proba-
bility might be reduced to a demonftration, by thoſe able men
whom the Government ufes to employ. in fuch cafes.
*
#
}
Six or eight miles lower, the river, which, though its chan-
nel is always confiderable, yet is moftly confined between ſteep
perpen-
[ 10
]
~4
perpendicular rocks, meets with an impediment at Babovdol, and
forms a ſmall cafcade. The ftoney little iſland, which there ob-
ftructs the current of the river, a little above it, forms a kind
of lake, and caufes the channel to be choaked with reeds, and
other fuch marſhy plants. Befides, the tartarous fediment of
the waters conſtantly tends to raiſe the bed, which is divided by
the Iſland of Babovdol, and confequently the waters becoming
daily higher, frequently overflow the neighbourhood of Knin,
to the great detriment of the inhabitants. The courfe of this
river was certainly not thus neglected in the times of the Romans
for not many years ago, in digging there, they found buried
feven feet under ground, an architrave and cornice of Greek mar-
ble, elegantly adorned with baſs-reliefs, repreſenting feftoons of
flowers, tortoifes, crocodiles, and other amphibious animals.
This probably ſtood above the gate of ſome pleaſure houſe. The
friars of Knin conveyed it to their convent, and broke and man-
gled it, according to the cuftom of religious barbarifm, in order
to make fome ornament or other to the church. Suppoſing then,
that the bed was actually deepened ſeven or eight feet more than
it is, and the island joined to one of the fhores, there would be
leſs hindrance to navigation, and the deeper channel only remain-
ing, the water would be lefs interrupted and might be directed-
in fuch a manner as to render innundations, very rare, and lefs
dangerous to the country. The fituation, falubrity, and health-
fulness of the air, on the very rich plains and heights about Knin,
are objects of much importance, although the government feems
hitherto not to have reflected upon it. Near the caſcade of Ba-
bovdol, in the crevices of the rocks, high above the river, I col-
lected fome fine fpecimens of mofs, moſt beautifully incruſted.
There are alfo Pifolithi, reſembling, in ſtructure, the bezoar of
animals
[ 102 ]
animals, and the confetti of Tivole, but not fo white, and folid
as the laft. Amongst the ftones of the river, near Babovdol,
are polypes. But I did not beſtow much attention upon them,
fince the diſcoveries of Trembley, Baker, and the celebrated
`Bonnet, have amply fatisfied the curiofity of the publick upon
thefe fubjects.
Of the Ruins of BURNUM.
Travelling by land from Knin, to the monaftry of the hof-
pitable Calogeri of St. Arcangelo *, we kept in the road along
the river, which runs from thence moftly confined by hills of
marble on both fides, and rarely finds a communication with
fields or villages. We faw many veftiges of ancient Roman ha-
bitations along the defert of Bukoviza: but miferable veftiges
indeed! ftones roughly hewn, with fquare holes in them to fix
the poles of tents, or fuch like covering, lie fcattered on both
fides of the road for upwards of a mile in length. Many frag-
ments of inſcriptions are ſeen here and there, among which there
is a piece of an iſolated pilafter, adorned with bafs-reliefs at all
the angles, and on it the remains of an ancient elogium, in very
large letters, and well preferved.
There is every reafon to believe, that the city deſtroyed on
this ſpot was the Burnum of Procopius, and the Liburna of Stra-
bo †. The Tabula Peutingeriana places Burnum on the right of
the
*The Calogeri of St. Arcangelo on the Kerka have a pious tradition, that St.
Paul celebrated maſs in a little chapel contiguous to their convent. The Mor-
lacchi, of the Greek church flock to that fanctuary with great devotion, but po
verty prevents their bringing rich gifts.
+ Merianus (Topograph. Carniol.) had much leſs reaſon to place the ancient
Burnum where Gottſchevia now ftands; that ſpot was not inhabited in the Roman
ages,
ARCHE'S called SVPPLACEROVA
SVPPLACEROVA from the Rus
from the Rums of the CITE of BVRNU
on the right hand of the River KERKA
V
:
雞​瑁
​་་
}
P. 103.
Jac. Leonardifse.
[ 103 ]
the river Titius, above Scardona, twenty four miles from Nedi-
num, which is the prefent Nadino, and reckoning from the three
arches, ſtill exiſting by the name of Suppliacerqua, or the per-
forated Church, to this place, the diſtance is juſt twenty five
miles. Not many years ago, there were five arches, two of
which were taken away by a Morlacco for his own particular
ufe. One of the remaining three has a chord of twenty one
feet, and the other two, to the right of it, about half as much.
Time has greatly damaged this ancient monument, which is
built of a foft ftone, like the Moilon of the French, and lefs.
compact than our ftone of Nanto, or San Gottardo, in the Vi-
centine hills. Yet the remaining arch fhews manifeſtly, that it
was erected in the ages of good architecture; and if the rubbiſh
around it could be eafily removed, there is no doubt but the
proportions would be found juft.. I had a drawing made of it
(Pl. v.) but I cannot determine to what purpoſe theſe five arches
of Suppliacerqua have been erected; but it feems that they were
intended to ſtand iſolated, for the channels and cornices are
equal on both fides. Perhaps it was a triumphal monument of
five arches. No other ruins are to be feen there about worthy
of notice but large ftones are found buried under ground, and in
the neighbourhood are the remains of a Roman. road. The
precife place where the arches ftand is called Suppliacerqua ;.
ages, and is far diftant from the places mentioned by ancient geographers as near
Burnum. Another geographer was ftill more miſtaken in placing this ancient
city on the river S. Vito, where Tarfatica indeed once ftood, but not Burnum,,
which muſt have been two hundred miles diftant from it. V. Schonleben Carricola,,
antiq, et nova.
and
[104]
and the neighbouring tract overfpread with ruins, goes by the
name of Trajanskigrad, which names Trajanopolis.
Courfe of the River to the Fall of Rofchiflap.
The Kerka runs on the right of the arches, in a deep chan-
nel, between the hills, and forms a cafcade, near a poor
cottage, which, beheld from above, appears to be delightfully
fituated; but the air cannot be good in fuch a deep hollow;
yet in the fame low, damp valley, five or fix miles furher
down, is fituated the monaftery of the Calageri of S. Arcan-
gélo, on the brink of the river, and at the foot of a hill,
whofe top is partly of gravelly breccia, and partly of common
Dalmatian marble; but the bottom is of a fubftance totally dif-
ferent: The road which leads to the monaftery, is cut through
the fide of the hill, and fhews feveral ftrata of fciffile marble, of
various hardneſs, which fometimes moulders between the fingers,
fometimes flies off in fcales like flintftone, and fometimes is a
concretion of rounded ftones; and may be called a fort of cal-
careous, ftony, gravelly earth. It ſhould feem, that in former
times, the river, having been choaked up by the fudden fall
of a large piece of the hill, had rifen far above its ordinary level,
and left theſe ftrata of mud, and pebbles. I examined the
hardened mud with diligence; but could not diſcover the leaſt
veftige of marine bodies; from which I concluded, that its ori-
gin was from depofition by the river. Large fragments of mar-
ble frequently fall from the impending hills, which form the
almoſt perpendicular banks of the Kerka, as is evidently feen
near the fourth caſcade at Rofchiflap. The laft rock, that was
precipitated on the bank of the river by the violent earthquake
in 1769, is a hundred and fifty feet high, and ſeventy two feet in
J
cir-
[105]
circumference. This mafs is compoſed of rounded ſtones,
white, red, grey, and in ſhort of every colour, and degree of
hardneſs. The greateſt part of thoſe which are coloured con-
tain Lenticulares; and I found, in a broken piece of the fame
maſs what I had never diſcovered before; that is, `Lenticulares
calcined, and become perfectly white, their concamerations
remaining ſtill entire, and, by the help of a good glaſs, perfectly
diſtinguiſhable, and void. This maſs, which fell down from
the higheſt part of the hill in 1769, adhered to a brow, that is
now inacceffible: in paſt ages, however, it muſt have been of
lefs difficult accefs; as there is the fepulchral infcription of an
old foldier ſtill vifible on the exterior part of the fallen rock.
If reafon, led fimply by repeated daily experience, were not
ſufficient to prove, that the ancient ſtate of the fuperficies of
our globe has undergone very great changes, not only in thou-
fands, but even in hundreds of years, and efpecially in the
mountainous parts of it; it might be proved undeniably, by
only obſerving this tract of country, through which the Kerka
runs; and the fame effects may reaſonably be ſuppoſed, in other
tracts which border on rivers, or torrents. It would be well
if thoſe were fent hither, who, fitting calmly in their own
ſtudies, pronounce, that our earth is precifely in the ſame ſtate
now, as it was fixty ages ago; and think they confirm their
opinion by ſufficient proof, when they refer to the remains of
far diftant antiquity, which ftill continue above ground, in ele-
vated places; without taking notice of a much greater portion
that lies buried. You have, more than once, been obliged to
contend with fuch reafoners; and were plentifully furniſhed
with examples of the partial, or total fall of mountains; of
their deftruction by the flow, corrofive action of undermining
waters; and of the alteration of their ſtructure, and ſometimes
P
of
[ 106 ]
of their entire fubverfion, by volcanos: of the beds of rivers
changed; of the encroachments, and receffions of the ſea; of
all which fo many inftances occur in hiftory, and fo many more
are obvious to the eye of anatentive obferver.
The caſcade of Roſchiflap, feen in front, forms an agreeable
profpect, which muſt be magnificent towards the end of Autumn
and in Spring. Yet as it can ſcarcely be expected to exceed the
caſcade of Terni, I find its true point of view in the middle of
fummer. The river is three hundred geometrical paces broad
below the caſcade, where a long and narrow bridge is built over
it, of fixty arches; rough, ill conftructed, but a folid Turkiſh
work. Between the bridge and the fall are feveral mills, and
the water is divided into various canals. On the intermediate
flips of earth are many trees, which are green and luxuriant,
from the perennial moiſture. Sometimes the verdure is inter-
rupted by the froth of the waters, which fall with impetuofity,
and noiſe, from a height of above twenty feet. Nor does the
whole water of the river concur to form the various rivulets
which beautify the caſcade; for a good part of it paffes through
the chinks of the rocks below. As far as I could diſcover,
this river leaves no tartarious fediment, or incrustations, unleſs
where it meets with refiftance and impediment; or where the de-
clivity is confiderable, and of courſe the current rapid.. In the
plain of Knin, where it runs flowly on an equal bed, it petrifies
neither roots nor plants, although it waters many, becauſe it finds
no refiftance. I believe it may be poſitively afferted,, that the va-
rious falls which render the Kerka unnavigable, have been pro.
duced by rocks and maffes tumbled from the hills into its chan-
nel. Hence the tartarious incruftations finding room to increaſe
among the apertures, and the unevenness of the maffes, by
length
}
[ 107 ]
length of time, and the difpofition of the place, forced a part
of the waters to take their courſe over them, there not remain-
ing ſufficient paſſage below. I ſhould alſo ſuſpect, that no tar-
tarious waters, excepting fuch as proceed from hot mineral
fprings, will leave incruftations where their current is flow; and
that both hot and cold will produce them always, in proportion
to the narrowneſs and declivity of the channels through which
they run. If the incruftations of a tartarous water grow to
larger bulk in places of lefs rapid courſe and ſmaller declivity,
than in others more narrow and inclined, the hardneſs and
weight of the ſtone formed, in theſe laſt, will counterbalance
the greater bulk of the firft. In like manner, I have always ob-
ferved, that in ftillicidious caverns, the trunks or ſtems of the
calcareo-fpatous columns which arife from the fubterraneous
ftrata, are more or lefs pure and compact, according to the
height from whence the drops fall, which are impregnated with
faline and cryftalline particles. And the incruftations formed
by larger ftillicides of water are always lefs folid, and confe-
quently more charged with earthly particles, and worfe coloured.
Theſe ftrata of gravelly breccia, which occupy the plain tops of
the hills, between which the channel of the river is funk, are
by nature eaſily diſpoſed to tumble down, and that not only
along the bed, but alſo along the deep vallies and hollows
which convey, or in former times, conveyed their eventual waters
into the Kerka. I faw the bottom of a valley to the right of
Roſchiflap all covered with large pieces of rock, which had fal-
len from the heights; and on one of them I found the remains
of a corroded and mutilated infcription.
Courfe
[ 108 ]
Courſe of the KERKA, to the Caſcade of SCARDONA.
The river, or rather torrent Cicola, which has its fource
under Gradaz, fifteen miles from Knin, runs likewife into the
Kerka, after having received the waters of the Verba, augment-
ed by thoſe of Mirilovich. On the right fide of its banks' lies
the town of Derniſh, which the Turks gave up to the Vene-
tians. The territory belonging to this place is extremely fruit-
ful and pleaſant. Not far from Derniſh is the fmall village
Tribuje, probably the Tribulium of the ancients, where fome
miferable veftiges of Roman habitations are ftill to be feen.
It would be tedious, and difagreeable to enlarge on the bad di-
rection of the waters, as well as thofe of the Butimfchiza, which
1 mentioned already. They might be made fountains of riches
to thoſe diſtricts; and inſtead of that, they produce only mi-
fery and reproach. Not far below Rofchiflap is the island of
Viffovaz, which is only the top of a hill, the bottom being
under water; it is inhabited by friars, faithful labourers in the
vineyard of theſe places, which would be thought too fatiguing
a life by moft fecular priefts. The river is very broad here, but
furniſhes no object of obſervation; it runs flowly, becauſe the
fall at the mills of Scardona, though five miles further down,
retards the current. This is the laſt, and moſt magnificent fall
of the Kerka, and would be doubly fo, if art had not profited,
by the opportune fituation of the place, to build many houſes,
and mills. Here is formed an undulated fpecies of topbus, of a
faline grain, which might be taken, at firſt fight, for foffil
wood. Novices in natural hiſtory often collect it as fuch; tho'
it is only the work of water, impregnated with tartarous par-
ticles. The lines denoting the divifions of the little ftrata, and
the difference of time in which they were formed by the water,
T
are,
[ 109 ]
1
Terro
} }
13
are, in fuch caſes, pretended to be longitudinal fibres of the
wood; and prejudiced eyes likewiſe eaſily diſtinguiſh the tranf-
verfals. A fimilar error is alfo produced by fome fpecies of
vulcanic ftones, variegated jafpers and flints, which repreſent
knots and excrefcences, like thofe on trees; and it is not eaſy
to convince thofe of their mistake, who are not uſed to collect
foffils perfonally in the mountains, where every one may be
convinced, who does not carry a great deal of prejudice along
with him. Simon Gliubavaz, Giovanni Lucio, and P. Farlati
after them, wrote, that, in former times, an aqueduct run from
this fall of Scardona, to Zara, which is fifty miles diftant; they
fell into this error, by finding the remains of a mean brick ca-
nal along the banks of the river, on the right of the fall at the
mills, reaching to the mouth of the lake; but this, in all ap-
pearance, conveyed the water no farther than Scardona. And,
of the impoffibility of bringing the water from thence to Zara,
I have already ſpoken at large,^in giving an account of the veſti-
ges of other aqueducts, which are feen near the fea, in the dif
trict of that city. Scardona ftood in very great need of aque-
ducts; for the waters of the lake, into which the Kerka falls,
are brackish, almoſt throughout the whole year; and the ſprings
do not fupply a fufficient quantity for fuch a large population.
The courſe of the river Kerka, from its fources at Topolye, to
its fall into the lake of Scardona, is not above thirty miles..
In riding from the monaftry of S. Arcangelo to Scardona,
within three miles of that city, I faw a little torrent, which,
among
other vulgar ftones, carries along with it, heaps of a blue-
ifh ftoney earth, full of marine foffil bodies. On ſeeing theſe
adventitious
[ ITO ]
C
adventitious pieces, I fearched further, and diſcovered in feve-
ral places whole ftrata of this earth, particularly near the top of
the hill to the left of the road. The foffil bodies obfervable in
it, are Nummulari, Lenticulares, and Porpite, of a fimilar figure,
fmall nuclei of Bucardita, many fungite, and articulations of
ftellæ marina. I found at Scardona, great quantities of turbinitæ
in the common marble, and took various fpecimens of them.
Not far from this torrent, near a place called Ruppe, there are
found large teeth of the Canis Carcharias, which anſwer to the
deſcription given by Scilla, Tab. III. Fig. 1. I could not viſit
the ſpot myſelf, but faw feveral of thoſe teeth in the poffeffion
of creditable perfons, who affured me they were to be found in
great quantities.
Of the City of SCARDONA, and of fome Paffages in ancient Writers,
concerning the Mineralogy of DALMATIA.
No veftiges now remain viſible of that ancient city, where
the ftates of Liburnia held their affembly, in the times of the
Romans. I however tranſcribed theſe two beautiful inſcriptions,
which were diſcovered fome years ago, and are preſerved in the
houſe of the reverend Canon Mercati. It is to be hoped, that,
as the population of Scardona continues increaſing, new lands
will be broken up, and conſequently more frequent diſcoveries
made of the precious monuments of antiquity. And it is to be
wifhed, that the few men of letters, who have a ſhare in the
regulation of this reviving city, may beſtow fome particular
attention on that article, ſo that the honourable memorials of their
ancient, and illuftrious country, which once held fo eminent
a rank among the Liburnian cities, may not be loft, nor carried
away. It is almoſt a ſhame, that only fix legible infcriptions ac-
tually
[
11 ]
tually exiſt at Scardona; and that all the others, fince many more
certainly muſt have been dug up there, are either miferably bro-
ken, or loft, or tranfported to Italy, where they lofe the greateſt
part of their merit..
ment.
Roman coins are very frequently found about Scardona, and
feveral valuable ones were fhewn to me by that hofpitable pre-
late Monfignor Trevisani, biſhop and father of the rifing fettle-
One of the principal gentlemen of the place was fo kind
to give me ſeveral fepulchral lamps, which are marked by the
name of FORTIS, and, by the elegant form of the letters, ap-
pear to be of the beſt times. The repeated devaftations, to
which Scardona has been expoſed, have left it no traces of gran-
deur. It is now, however, beginning to rife again; and many
merchants of Servia, and Bofnia, have fettled there, on account:
of the convenient fituation for trade, with the upper provinces of
Turkey. But the city has no fortifications, notwithſtanding:
the affertion of P. Farlati to the contrary. In all my peregri-
nations through Illyrium, I have hitherto met with no mine of
any kind of metal, excepting one of iron, not far from Seign,,
of which, alſo, they made a kind of mystery to me, though I
know not for what reafon. They ſay, there are rich mines at
Hotton, in the territory of Kain ;. but I did not go there; and
Knin;.
little dependance can be made on fuch popular reports, of greedy
and ignorant people,, who think they fee gold and fiver in all the
Perita. There is no doubt, however, that Dalmatia, in anci--
ent times, produced a great deal of gold, as ſeveral writers teſtify..
Pliny, among others, who had the opportunity of knowing it,.
fays, that under the emperor Nero, fifty pounds of gold were
taken daily from the mines of that province, and that it was
found:
Illyr, Sacr. t. Fê
[112]
found on the furface of the ground, in fummo cefpite. Florus
writes, that Vibius, who was fent by Auguftus to fubdue the Dal-
matians, obliged that fierce people to work in the mines, and to
cleanſe the gold. Martial, likewife, writing to Macer; calls
Dalmatia terra aurifera, and it ſeems to have been his opinion,
that the county about Salona particularly deſerved that appellation.
Ibis litoreas, macer, Salonas;
Felix aurifera colone terra.
And it appears, by a verfe of Statius, in his epithalamium of
Stella, that the gold of Dalmatia was become a proverb:
Robora Dalmatico lucent fatiata metallo.
a paffage that permits us not to doubt of either the exiſtence, or
abundance of this precious metal. In the fame manner fome of
our poets have called gold Peruvian metal, and their meaning is
perfectly well understood.
Concerning the COMMON REPORTS relative to DALMATIAN
MINERALOGY.
:
Notwithſtanding all theſe teſtimonies, which have induced
ſeveral people to flatter themſelves with the hopes of finding trea-
fures; I cannot perfwade myſelf, that there are mines, either of
gold, or filver, in the mountains along the coaſt, properly called
Dalmatia; there not appearing at leaſt, any of the characters of
mineral
* Aurum qui quærunt ante omnia fegullum tollunt (ita vocatur indiciùm.) Alveus
ubi id eft, arenæque lavantur, atque ex eo quod refedit conjectura capitur ut inveniatur
aliquando in fumma tellure, penitus rara felicitate; ut nuper in Dalmatia, principatu
Neronis, fingulis diebus etiam quinquagenas libras fundens; cum jam inventum in fum-
mo cefpite. Plin. Hift. Nat. Lib. xxxiii, cap. 4.
mɔ
•
[ 113 ]
mineral mountains. Perhaps the inland mountain of Promina,
where the city of Promona ſtood, may contain mines, as fome Dal-
matian writers affirm; but I have not yet been able to examine it
with proper care and attention; I am inclined, however, to fuf-
pect, that the Dalmatians have ſuffered themſelves to be impoſed
upon, by the name of the mountain itſelf, through the apparent
analogy it has to mines; though perhaps it may be originally
derived aprominendo. I was told, that the fmall river Hyader,
now called Salona, from the ruins of the city which once bore
that name, carries from its fources, fome little gold duft in its
fand; and have heard it alfo afferted, that the
•
A
poor inhabitants
of its banks ſometimes collected it, though in very fmall quan-
tities: but on diligent enquiry, I found theſe reports without
the leaſt foundation. I was alfo affured by feveral perfons, and
even found it written, in the records of the province, which I
examined for that purpoſe; that there is a rich mine of quick-
filver, at a place called Subidolaz, above Sebinico, but this I
found abfolutely falfe. And indeed all my endeavours hitherto
have given me but little light relative to this article. I am ſtill
unacquainted with the topography of this vaft country, having
vifited only a part of it; but by all that I have been able to ob-
ferve, it feems probable that no valuable mines are to be found
in the calcarious mountains adjacent to the ſea, nor in the valleys
watered by the Kerka, and Cettina. The ancient mines were
probably further up the country, and then the confines of the
province reached further inwards. If it be true that gold duft
is actually found in the fand of the river Travrick in Boffina,
perhaps the rich mine, of which Pliny fpeaks, is to be looked
for along the courſe of that river, and about its fources. I know
not if this be the fame river, from the bed of which there arifes a
briſk fountain of fubacid water, which raiſes itſelf confiderably
above
1
[114]
above the fuperficies of the current. I have been told that the
Boſnians make ufe of this water to cure tertian agues; and that
when put in veffels and tranfported, it depofed a ferruginous
fediment, &c. According to the accounts of many who have fre-
quently travelled in Boffina, it is a country well furniſhed with
mineral mountains; and they fay it has rich mines of gold and
filver. The place where they are found goes by the name of
Srebrarniza, which means, country, or land of filver, being de-
rived from the word Srebro, which fignifies filver, in all the
Sclavonian. dialects. I had a fpecimen of that mine, and it re-
fembles the native filver of Potofi. It is in ſmall thin leaves like
mofs, and is found combined with pure yellowish quartz, but
unmixed with it. Many other things were related to me con-
cerning the foffil hiftory of Boffina, but I think it improper
to mention them, upon the fimple report of others. I know
by experience, that in facts of natural hiſtory, a prudent incre-
dulity is very requifite.
If the minute details into which I have occafionally entered,
have appeared fometimes tedious, I hope you will not reproach me
on that account. Exact precifion is the first quality of an obferver
who aims at national advantage, by pointing out the places which
want cultivation, and the advancement of natural fcience, by de-
ſcribing the productions of nature. Befides theſe objects, I thought
it my duty alſo to rectify the miſtakes which authors, who have
wrote about this country, have fallen into; and I have confulted
the convenience of travellers, by indicating popular reports
which I found to be falfe. Nor have I omitted to mention
the remains of ancient fettlements, though that belongs rather
to the antiquary, than to the naturalift. I have, indeed, more
readily taken notice of them, as they give a jufter idea of Dal-
matia
[ 115 ]
1
matia than we have generally entertained; for if it were that
horrid country which it is often reprefented to be, fo many Ro-
man colonies would not have been planted in it.
Although I am not ignorant of the little influence of any pub-
lication, nor of the great prevalence of prejudice, yet I cannot
help expreffing my hopes, that my travels in theſe parts may,
at ſome period or other, be of uſe and advantage to the Dalma-
tian nation; and I ſhould think myſelf the moſt fortunate of·
travellers, if, before I terminate my exiſtence here on earth, I
were convinced that I had not exiſted in vain..
{{
}
}
[ 117 ]
TO THE
ABBE BRUNELLI,
PROFESSOR OF NATURAL HISTORY,
IN THE
UNIVERSITY
OF
BOLOGNA.
Of the District of SIBENICO, or SEBENECO.
Y journey into Dalmatia having interrupted the regular
and friendly correspondence, which we have maintained
for ſeveral years, you will, no doubt, have fome curiofity to
know the reſult of it. And as you are a lover of natural hiſtory,
and appointed a Profeffor of it in that Academy, where it flou-
riſhed under the labours of an Aldrovandi, Malpighi, and a
Marfigli; and being likewiſe a moſt diligent fearcher into re-
cords, that tend to throw any light on the literary hiſtory of
former ages, as well as a good judge, and admirer of every part
of foreign literature; there cannot be any perſon ſo well qualified
as yourſelf, to reliſh the variety of my obfervations. I therefore
addreſs a part of them to you, in teftimony of my eſteem and
friendſhip, and as fome return for the uſeful intelligence which
you frequently favour me with, from your City, where every
part of literature, and every fcience, meet with protection and
encouragement.
My the regul
Μ
of
[118]
Of the City and Territory of SIBENICO.
*
The territory of Sibenico, of all the other provinces of Dal-
matia that I have hitherto vifited, is, on account of the anti-
quities and natural productions, moſt worthy the attention of
a curious traveller. It runs along the fea for above thirty
miles; reaches in fome parts above twenty within land; and
comprehends about feventy greater and finaller iſlands. The
variety of the objects, the amenity of the fituations, and the
hoſpitality of a few polite and learned friends, among whom
1 name, with pleaſure, the family of Count Francefco Dra-
genich Veranzio, and Count Giacinto Soppe Papali, would have
determined me to have ftaid in thofe parts feveral months,
making that city the centre of my marine and mountain excur-
fions. But the circumftances of my commiffion in Dalmatia
forced me to haften my departure from that neighbourhood,
without being able to finish the feveral obſervations and remarks
which I had begun. You, who know how much time is ne-
ceſſary to examine every minute particular în a country hitherto
little explored, will not be furpriſed if my obfervations in this
diſtrict appear a little imperfect, and in a great meafure unworthy
of the publick.
>
1
1
The City of Sibenico, which lies nearly forty miles in a right
line from Zara, cannot boaft a very illuſtrious origin. Thofe who
pretend that it arofe out of the ruins of Sicum, a Roman fettle-
ment, where Claudius fent a colony of veterans,* found their
opinion on fuch weak reaſons, that they merit not a confutation.
The Tabula Peutingeriana places no other name of a town in
Dalmatia,
* Plin. lib. 3. c. xxii. Tragurium civium Romanorum marmore notum; Si-
cum, in quem locum Divus Claudius veteranos mifit.
[ 119 ]
<<
Dalmatia, that has any likeneſs to Sicum, but Siclis, and that lay
between Trau and Salona. Sibenico has no veftige of what can
be called antiquity; nor remains of walls, or ſtones of Roman
workmanſhip. One fingle infcription only appears in the walls
of the city, near the gate that leads to the harbour, and that was
brought hither from the internal part of the territory, called
Campo di fopra, where, probably, in ancient times, Tariona
ftood. Lucius thinks that Sibenico was built by the Croats, in
the times of the declenfion of the Empire; and Giambatisto
Guiftiniano, who wrote a century before Lucius, fays, in his ma-
nuſcript account of Dalmatia, that this city-" was founded by a
"banditti, or eufocchi, as they are ſometimes called; who, before
they built it, uſed to live on the high rock where the caſtle now
"ftands; and when they difcovered any veffel near fhore, they
came down, and, in their boats, which were concealed at the
"foot of the rock, ſurrounded by a thick wood, went out and
“plundered it; in proceſs of time they began to build fome
"cottages, incloſed with a kind of pallifades, called fibue,' from
"whence the city got the name of Sibenico. The city, by lit-
"tle and little, began to increaſe, by the concourfe of thoſe
"robbers; and afterwards, when the ancient city of Scardona
"was deſtroyed, many of its inhabitants are ſaid to have removed
"to Sibenico, which though then it had not the name of a city,
"obtained it ſometime after, and was governed fome years by its
"own inhabitants, without being fubject to any prince. But
"this liberty was of fhort duration; for the king of Hungary,
"who was at that time fovereign of Dalmatia, began to tyrannize
68
over, the people of Sibenico, who, impatient of the yoke, and
"not able to bear the infolence of the Hungarians, in regard to
"their wives and daughters, as well as their fubftance, came to
"the refolution of fubmitting voluntarily to the republick of Ve-
“nice,
[120]
"nice, as being a juft and equitable government; this happened
"in 1412, on the 12th of July, under the moſt ſerene Doge Mi-
“chele Steno, of happy memory."
But whatever may have been the true origin of this city, whe-
ther it was like that of Rome, or fprung rather from a ſeries of
ſmall augmentations, it has certainly the beſt and moſt agreeable
fituation of any city in Dalmatia; and, next to Zara, it is alſo
the beſt built, and has the greateſt number of noble families,
who are now as far from the barbarous manners of ancient pi-
rates, as their houſes are unlike the former cottages, or fibice.
It is defended on one fide by a caſtle fituated on a hill, which
held out againſt repeated attacks of the Turks; and towards the
fea, upon a narrow channel at the mouth of the harbour, by an-
other fort, a noble work of Sammicheli, and whofe gate is very
like the celebrated gate of Verona, by the fame architect. Among
the buildings of Sibenico, the dome or cathedral, though in the
ftyle of the barbarous times, merits particular notice, for the
magnificence of the fabrick, and much more for its roof, which
is compofed of large flat pieces of marble connected together;
a work as bold as any other of a like nature, in the Roman times.
In the xvith centry, the arts and ſciences flouriſhed in this city
more than in any other of Dalmatia. It has feveral buildings in
a good taste of architecture; and has produced many eminent
men worthy of particular notice.
Of Men of Letters who flourished at SIBENICO, in the xvith
Century, Painters, &c.
Among the illuſtrious men of Dalmatia, Antonio Veranzio of
Sibenico deferves, in every refpect, the firft place. Scattered
remains
[121].
remains of this great man are found in many cotemporary books,
as well as in fome of the writers on the affairs of Hungary
after his time. But none of them have purpoſely wrote the
hiſtory of his life, * which nevertheleſs, deſerves a diſtinguiſhed
place, as well among men of political, as literary merit.
Though I have neither leiſure nor abilities to enter upon ſuch
a ſubject, yet I'prefume it will be amuzing to relate fuccinctly
fuch circumſtances of his life, as I had an opportunity of col-
lecting from the valuable papers preferved in the noble family
of the counts Draganich Veranzie.
+
the
Antonio Veranzio was born the 29th of May, 1504 of
Francis, a gentleman of Sibenico, and of Margherita Statileo,
a lady of Trau. He paffed the earlieſt part of his youth at
Trau, with his maternal uncles: but returning to his native
place, he had for preceptor Elio Tolimero, of whom ſome pieces
of latin poetry, not without merit, are preferved among
papers of Veranzio. After he was well grounded in the Greek
and Latin authors, he was called to Vifprimio by the famous
Biſhop and Ban Pietro Beriſlavo of Trau, who was his uncle by
the mother's, fide, and of whom he learned the first rudiments
of the military art... But this warlike biſhop being barbaroufly
killed by the Turks, in 1520, Giovanni Statileo, a man of
great authority at the court of Hungary, and biſhop of Tran-
filvania, ſent for his two nephews, our Antonio, and his brother
Michele. One of Veranzio's first literary productions feems to
>
R
have
* Belius, in his Hungaria nova, vol. I; and Schmit Archiepifcopi Strigonienfis
compendio dati, gave a ſketch of the life of Veranzio; but both of them fell into
miſtakes, and treated their fubject in a dry manner. And Sxentivanius believed
that he was born in Tranfilvania.
1
[122]
have been the life of his uncle Beriflavo, which, a hundred
years after, was appropriated, by a fhameful plagiarism, by
Tomeo Marnavich, without changing almoft a fingle word *
About this time Antonio was fent to the univerſity of Padua
but the diſturbances which broke out in the kingdom of Hụn-
gary, occafioned his recal thither foon after. It
appears, how-
ever, that he continued his ſtudies at Vienna, and afterwards at
Cracow; in both which univerfities his brother Michele cer-
tainly ſtudied. Antonio, after his return into Hungary, was
obliged to exert the utmoſt degree of patience in bearing the ill
ufage of his uncle, who was a man of a harsh and obftinate
temper, and often treated both his nephews in a very mortify-
ing manner, which Michele particularly could not bear. In
the mean time Antonio ingratiated himſelf with Steffano Brode
rico, biſhop of Vacia, of whom there remains a good manufcript
commentary of the fatal day of Mohez, where he fought in per-
fon, and with the monk Giorgio Utiffenio, who were both very
powerful at the court of King John Sepufius. In 1529, he
was employed by that unfortunate monarch, in fome difficult
commiffions, on the confines of his diſtracted kingdom; and at-
tended him when he was befieged in Buda by William Rogen-
dolff, general of the malecontents. He obtained the poſt of Se-
cretary of ſtate, and was made governor of old Buda; for both
which he gave particular thanks to Broderico, in verfe. He
went into Tranfilvania, by commiffion from the king, to ma-
nage the affairs of the biſhoprick, in the room of Statileo; and
it appears by his papers, that he not only copied the infcripti-
ons that were already diſcovered, but caufed others to be dug
up
* Vita Petri Beriflavi Vefprim. Ep. Sclav. Dalm. & Croat. Bani, Jo. Tomeo
Marnavitio auctore. Ven. ap. Evang. Deuch. 1620, in 8vo.
T 123 ]
up in places where any Roman ruins appeared. The fiege of
Buda being raiſed in 1530, he was fent on public employment
twice to Sigifmund king of Poland, and twice to the repub-
lic of Venice. The year following he went to pope Clement
VII. afterwards to Paul III. and immediately on his return in-
to Hungary was diſpatched again to Sigifmund. About the
end of 1534, this celebrated man was fent into France to Francis
I. where he alſo returned on a fecond embaſſy, and from thence
paffed over to England to Henry VIII. at whofe court he was in
the month of January, 1535. It is probable that, about this
time, he contracted a friendſhip with the great Erafmus of Rot-
terdam, and án efteem for Melancthon. A letter from Erafmus
is ſtill carefully preſerved by the prefent count Franceſco Drag-
anich Veranzio; and there is, among the manufcript latin verſes
of our Antonio, an epigram in praife of Melancthon. In his
laft will, made before he fet out for France, are the following
words; "Mihi, fi moriar, pompas fepulchrales, aut miſſas fieri nola
ullas. Hofpitale pauperum juvetur. Ego contentus ero fi in Do-
mino moriar:” a circumſtance that proves, at leaſt, his charity
to the poor. On his return to court, the king ſent him ambaſ-
fador, with two other colleagues, to Ferdinand of Auſtria, king
of Bohemia: but this embaffy had not the defired effect.
king John died in 1540; and Veranzio, from whom there are
two long letters, on this event, to Giovanni Statileo, then am-
baffador in France, feemed unalterably attached to the intereſts
of the queen dowager Ifabella, and of John II. then a pupil.
Iſabella ſent him ambaffador, for the eighth time, to king Sigif-
mund, on the occafion of his marriage in 1543, and the ſpeech
he made at his audience, which was printed at Cracaw, defcrib-
ed, in fuch ſtrong terms, the mournful circumſtances of the
unhappy queen, that it drew tears from his hearers. After a
short
[ 124 ]
ſhort repofe, he was fent again, the fame year, to king Ferdi-
nand, by whom he was received with much diſtinction, and
had the honour to dine at his table. It appears, that, about
this time, his attachment to Ifabella began to cool; and
her affairs took a very bad turn. In 1544, he refigned
the government of Tranfilvania to Georgio Utiffenio, though
againſt his will, as appears by the fragments of a dia-
logue that he wrote many years after. He continued, never-
theleſs, fome months at Ifabella's court, and went, for the
ninth time, into Poland, to negotiate affairs with Sigifmund.
After he had executed that commiffion, he defired leave to re-
tire, and paffed to Sibenico, from whence he foon departed
again, taking two or three of his nephews along with him, one
of whom was Fauftus. There is reaſon to think that he made
fome ſtay in Italy till the year 1549, about which time he came
to the court of king Ferdinand, who at firſt
gave him fome ec-
clefiaftical benifices, and ſoon after began to employ him in pub-
lic negotiations. In 1553, our flatefman was fent on a ſpecial
commiffion to Ali Baffa Beglerbeg of Buda, and in the fame year
he was made biſhop of the Five-Churches, and privy counſel-
lor; he was afterwards. fent ambaffador to the Porte, together
with Francis Zay. It appears that he wrote a copious
journal during this embaffy, whereof only a fragment now
remains, which is, however, highly deferving of publica-
tion. *
Antonio was obliged to follow Soliman, in his march
to attack the frontiers of Perfia; and moved from one country
to
* The moſt intereſting part of the memoirs of this long and dangerous expe-
dition was given to the jefuit Riceputi, who collected valuable records over all
Dalmatia, under pretence to make uſe of them in a work then undertaken dell'Il-
lirico facro But thefe memoirs, together with almoft all the others collected by
him, were unfortunately loft.
[ 125 ]
to another, with the Turkish army, for the ſpace of five years.
In the courſe of that long time, he collected, and wrote many
memorials concerning the government, and military art of the
Turks, and the chorography of the countries fubject to the
Porte. Augerius Bufbekius, of whom we have a treatiſe on the
Ottoman government among the Elziverian republicks, made
feveral journies, in the mean time, to and from Vienna, and
Turkey, and at laft concluded a truce. The fame Bufbek
mentions, that Veranzio, and Zay, left Turkey towards the end
of Auguft, in 1557. Before the end of this year, Antonio was
tranſlated from the fee of the five churches to that of Agria;
and in the following year there is a letter from Palolo Manuzio
to our bishop; and in 1560, he received one likewife from the
famous, and unfortunate Aonius Palearius. I find nothing re-
markable among Veranzio's papers now under my eye, till 1567,
in which year he went a fecond time ambaffador to the Porte,
from the emperor Maximilian II. and, in a few months time, a
treaty of peace with Selim II. was concluded by this experien-
ced miniſter, on very advantagious terms to all the chriftian na-
tions. This embaffy is celebrated in an elegiac poem by Gio-
vanni Seccervizio. Many manufcripts were, doubtless, collected
by this learned prelate, during his two expeditions to the Otto-
man courts, which now, through the length of time, are entirely
loft. But there are ftill extant, as a fufficient teftimony of his
genius, the tranflation, made under his direction, of the Turkiſh
annals found by him in Ancyra. From this manuſcript, which
is preſerved at Sibenico among his other papers, Leunclavius
took the greateſt part of his work, known by the learned under
the name of Codex Verantianus.
*Leunclav. Hift. Turc. Lib. I. p. 31.
Schmitthe Op. cit. in ver.
*
Having
1
[126]
Having ended this laft embaffy fo much to his honour, he re-
turned to court, and was foon after rewarded for his labours;
for in 1569 he was appointed archbishop of Strigonio, which is
the first dignity in Hungary, after the king; and in 1572 he
was likewiſe made viceroy. In this year Rudolph archduke of
Auſtria was, by him, crowned king of Hungary; and his ora-
tion, on that occafion, in the name of the ſtates of Hungary,
was printed at Venice by Rampazetto. Johannes Seccervitius pub-
liſhed in Vienna a panegyrick in Latin verſe, entitled Verantius,
to which various other Latin pieces, by German authors, are
annexed ; and Giovan Murio Verdizotti printed in Venice a poem
addreſſed to the archbiſhop Veranzio, upon the naval victory ob-
tained by the Venetians over the Turks the
year before. In the
beginning of 1573, Petrus Illycinus alfo dedicated a theological
work to him; and, no doubt, many other books were publiſhed
under his aufpices, as the good prelate was a munificent protec-
tor of all kinds of literature. But he now approached near the
end of his laborious life. He fell fick at Eperces, where he went
to affift at the comitial affembly of the kingdom. In the begin-
ning of his illneſs, he conſulted the phyſicians, but finding it in→
creaſe, he difmiffed them, and waited for death with a chriſti-
an and philoſophic tranquillity. Men of letters loft in him a ge-
nerous protector, the poor a charitable father, and Hungary,
and all Chriſtendom a confummate ſtateſman. He died the 15th
of June, 1573, a few days after he had received a very affecti-
onate letter from Pope Gregory XIII. anouncing his election to
the dignity of a Cardinal, obtained by true merit alone. His
funeral oration was pronounced by Michel Duborozky; and he
was
Jo. Verdizotti oraculum pro magna navali victoria, &c. Ad Antonium Ve-
rantium Strig. Archep. Ven. apud Guerræos, 1572.
[ 127 ]
Be-
was buried in the church of St. Nicholas of Tirna, where a fui-
table monumental infcription was erected to his memory.
fides the above mentioned Belius, Leunclavius, Schmittius, Buf
bekius, Manutius, and Seccervitius, many other authors have wrote
in praiſe of this illuftrious prelate; particularly Bonfinius, in his
Hungarian Decades, Iftuamphius, in his continuation of the fame
book, Jongelinus, in his Catalogue of the Palatines, and the author
of the work entitled Caftrum Strigonienfe aureum, who celebrates
him by a concife and expreffive panegyrick.
Antonio was tall, and well proportioned, but of a delicate
complexion; his countenance was open, and noble; he had
blue eyes, a long nofe, and a white beard, that reached down to
his girdle. In his youth he probably felt the force of love, as it
cannot well be imagined,. that the many amorous verſes which
he left in manufcript were altogether fictitious. United to the
beauty and dignity of his perſon, he poffeffed an eminent degree
of eloquence, whereby he became acceptable to Princes of va-
rious countries, even in his younger days, and the fame accom-
pliſhment could not fail to recommend him alfo to the fair fex.
The mildnefs of his manners was truly the external image of the
fweetneſs of his difpofition; and the heroick patience which he
exerciſed, during his ſtay with his uncle Statileo, was certainly
derived from this quality of mind, and not from diffimulation
or artifice. From hence it may alſo reaſonably be concluded, that
he muſt have received fome very grievous offence from Queen
Iſabella, otherwiſe he would have perſiſted in his attachment to
her. His dignity and riches ferved only to increaſe
nimity and beneficence, but never produced pride.
proof of his greatneſs of mind was, his fpontaneous
the Emperor Ferdinand, of thirty thouſand florins,
his
magna-
One fignal
donative to
which he
had
[ 128 ]
had diſburſed for paying the troops, when the treaſury was ex-
hauſted. And fo great was his generoſity, that, notwithſtanding
his immenſe revenues, when he died, there was a neceffity of
felling the epifcopal plate, and other moveables of value, to pay
his debts. He had an extraordinary degree of penetration in po-
litical affairs; and it was always contrary to his opinion to de-
clare war against the Turk, unleſs a previous well eſtabliſhed
and powerful league between the Chriſtian Princes had been
formed. Although he was continually employed in great affairs,
he always retained his genial love for learning, and, in the midft
of buſineſs, found fome leiſure hours for ftudy. His manu-
ſcript works ſtill extant are,
1. Vita Petri Beriflavi
2. Iter Buda Hadrianopolim.
3. De fitu Moldavie et Tranfalpina. Fragmentum.
4. De rebus geftis Johannis Regis Hungaria. Libri duo.
5. De obitu Johannis Regis Hungaria, Epiftola ad Joannem Stati-
lium Epifcopum Tranfylvanum data dum idem Statilius in
Gallia oratorem ageret anno 1540.
6. Animadverfiones in Pauli fovii Hiftoriam, ad ipfum fovium.
7. De obfidione, et interceptione Buda, ad Petrum Petrowith.
8. Vita F. Georgii Utiffenii, quæ pene tota perit.
9. Collectio antiquorum Epigrammatum.
10. Multa ad Hiftoriam Hungaricam fui temporis.
11. Otia, feu Carmina.
Michele Veranzio, the archbiſhop's brother, did not make ſo
confpicuous a figure in the world. Not having patience enough
to bear the abufive temper of his uncle Statileo, he lived fome-
time in Hungary, by no means at his eaſe, and at laſt returned
to
[129]
7
to Sibenico. But he wrote with greater elegance than Antonio,
both in profe and verfe. Tomeo Manavich quotes a work of
Michel Veranzio concerning the Hungarian hiſtory of his own
times; of which, however, only a fragment relative to the year
1536, now remains. I believe nothing of his is printed, be-
fides one elegy, among the Latin verfes of Girolamo Arconati.
But he left in manuſcript ſeveral elegant poetical pieces, and an
oration to the Tranfilvanians, whereby he endeavoured to per-
fuade them to put themſelves under the protection of the Turk,
rather than become ſubjects to king Ferdinand.
Faufto and Giovanni, his fons, were recommended to the
care of their uncle Antonio, for their education. Some ſchool
epigrams of the latter ſtill remain; he fell, when young, in
battle. Faufto lived to a great age, and might have been rich
and happy, had not his violent temper hindered his advancement,
and kept him in a perpetual difquiet. He fuffered much trou-
ble by having imprudently engaged the court of Hungary in a
diſpute with that of Rome, concerning beneficiary matters. He
died biſhop of Canadio in partibus. We have, publiſhed by
him at Venice in 1535, a fmall pentaglot dictionary, befides a
volume in fol. entitled Le Mouhine, publiſhed ſubſequently, and
a very short logical treatiſe, under the name of Giufto Vira-
ce. On account of this laft treatife, our author entered into
correfpondence with two very famous men, F. Tommaſo Cam-
panella, and the Archbishop de Dominis. There is, of the firft,
among the Charte Verantianæ, an autographal cenfure of the
faid logical treatiſe, and another of de Dominis, principally on
the fame fubject. Faufto wrote a great deal, and, among other
things, a history of Dalmatia, which he ordered to be buried
with him. His heirs refpected this whimfical humour; and
S
who
[ 130 ]
who knows how many valuable papers of the Archbishop Anto-
nio periſhed in the fame deplorable manner with thofe of Fauf-
to ? He died in 1597, and was buried in the iſland of Parvich.*
Tomeo Marnavich made his funeral oration, and it was printed
at Venice the fame year. Carlo Veranzio, Faufto's nephew, left
no works either printed or in manufcript; but he was a patron
of learned men, a great collector of books, and an intelligent
antiquary.
Befides this celebrated family of the Veranzii, Sibenico may
alſo boaſt of ſeveral other men of no inconfiderable merit, and
whom I fhall now briefly mention. Giovanni Tomeo Marnavich
was born in 1579, of low parentage, though afterwards he pretend-
ed to nobility, and affected even a royal origin; which foolish
vanity coſt him many mortifications. He was educated by the
Jefuits at Rome, and in 1603 had compiled a large manufcript
volume De Illyrico, Cafaribufque Illyricis, which is ftill extant,
though fomewhat mutilated. In 1617 he was in the ſervice of
the biſhop of Canadio, on whofe death he publiſhed the oration.
above mentioned. This man having acceſs to the Veranzian pa-
pers, probably appropriated them to his own ufe. One clear
proof of this is his plagiarifm of the life of Pietro Beriflavo,
which he publiſhed in 1620, adding nothing of his own, but a
few periods to make himſelf appear a kinſman of Beriſlavo, and
fuppreffing the few lines that diſcovered the true biographer
Antonio Veranzio. Of the many things publiſhed by Marna-
vich, the beſt is a differtation Pro facris Ecclefiarum ornamentis,
et
*Befides the books already mentioned, Faufto Veranzio publiſhed at Rome
Kivet n'koliko izabraniih diwiicz. 1606, in 8vo. And left a manufcript volume,
entitled Regula Cancellaria Regni Hungaria.
[ 131 ]
!
et donariis, contra eorum detractores, Romæ 1635, 8vo. He was
then biſhop of Bofna. A few years before, he publiſhed a le-
gend of Illyrian faints of royal lineage, with this title, Regie
fanctitatis Illyricanæ fœcunditas, in 4to. 1630. And, among his
other faints, he places the Emperor Conftantine, whoſe title to
fanctity every body is fufficiently acquainted with. The other
works of Tomeo are not worth mentioning.
Jacopo Armolufich, a creature of Carlo Veranzio, left many
manuſcript verſes, and publiſhed a little book at Padua, in 1634,
entitled Slava xenfka fprotioni odgover Giacova Armolufichia fciben-
canina cuitu feftomus, in 4to.
Guarino Tihich, or Tranquillo, lived in the beginning of
the xvith century, and left ſome poetical manuſcripts on facred
fubjects.
Pietro Difnico, cotemporary with the two Veranzii, wrote ſome
poems in the Illyrck language. There have been other learned
men of the fame family, but I could not find any memoirs about
them. Of this Pietro I fhall have occafion to ſpeak again, and
alſo of Giovanni Nardino, who wrote, in elegiac latin verſes,
the Praiſes of Sibenico, a ſubject that was likewiſe treated by
Giorgio Sifgoreo, whofe work is quoted by Tomeo, but I
could not find it.
Pietro Macroneo of Sibenico, Canon of Scardona, though
mentioned by me after thoſe others, lived in much earlier times.
Several of Macroneo's compofitions were found among the MSS.
in 'the poffeffion of Lawrence Firenczfi at Vienna, in 1634, and
he
[ 132 ]
he flouriſhed fifty years before that time. One only of his works,
and a very whimfical one, is printed,
is printed, intitled Controver-
fia Lyaei, atque Tethidis, Vien. 1634. It is a medley of ſcrip-
ture paffages, parodied, to carry on this controverfy, which, ne-
vertheleſs, is treated before the tribunal of God. Perhaps Ma-
croneo compofed it in earneſt; but, in our times, fuch a mix-
ture of facred and profane would carry rather too burleſque an
appearance.
Martino Rota, a painter and engraver, was alfo born at Sibe-
nico; and there ſtill remain ſeveral of his prints, among which are
various chorographical maps of Dalmatia, not exact, yet of ſome
ufe. Two of the three prints of Antonio Veranzio, which are
preferved in the family of the Counts Veranzii, were engraved
by this artift.
}
Andrea, known by the name of Schiavone, was alfo born at
Sibenico, of very obfcure origin, but an excellent painter,
whoſe works are held in high eſteem by the lovers of that noble
art, notwithſtanding the diſadvantageous judgment that Vaſari is
pleaſed to form of them.
(
7'x
Of the Port of SIBENICO, and the Lake of SCARDONA, and
of fome ancient Cuſtoms.
The harbour of Sibenico is large, and one of the moſt beauti-
ful that can be ſeen, by the variety of hills, and little promon-
tories that furround it, and form a kind of theatre. The city
ftands on the water-fide, extending along the lower part of a
hill, and flanked by the rugged hills called Tartari, which are
covered by the gravel of ancient rivers, hardened into breccia.
The
[ 133 ]
The river Kerka, after entering into the lake of Scardona,
forms a new channel for itfelf among the rocks, and running
three miles further with a gentle courſe, forms a fecond lake be-
low Sibenico, fix miles in length, and then falls into the fea,
through the narrow ftrait of St. Antonio. The Romans had a
fettlement between the mouths of the two rivers Goducchia
and Jujova, both which fall into the Lake of Scardona;
however, the veftiges are now fcarcely perceptible, and yet
they merit fome attention, becauſe they afford a manifeſt
proof of the rife of the waters, The moſaic pavements,
and the divifions of the ruined chambers, are, at leaſt, two
feet under the ordinary level of the lake, which ebbs and
flows according to the tide. There is alſo a long wharf under
water, which joins the point of the peninfula formed by the
two rivers to the ifolated rock-Suftipanaz. On this rock there is
a ruined church, which, in other times, perhaps, was a temple
of the Gentiles. In a map of the territory of Sibenico, done
by the above mentioned Martino Rota, 1571, are to be ſeen
ſeveral habitations, pofterior to thoſe of the Romans, and fitu-
ated on the point, which extends itſelf within the the lake, be-
tween the two mouths, and is called Razlina; which ſpot is
now quite deſert.
Among the poetical compofitions of Difnico there is an ele-
gy on Sibenico, wherein are various articles relating particularly
to the natural hiftory of the waters of that neighbourhood.
The following is a paffage of that old poetical naturalift, and,
fuch as it is, I fhould think it wrong to fupprefs it.*
"The
"river
* The original Illyrick,
[ 134 ]
66
""
"river Kerka, fays he, whofe perennial current bathes the foot
"of the city, has an iſland, in which hail never falls. This
"river iffues rumbling on every fide, from dropping caverns,
"where marble is produced; and crouds of people go there,
"to fee the prodigy or its waters changing wood into ftone.
"To the, O! Sibenico, this river brings eels, the flesh of which
produces no malignant fever, and before it falls from its great
cataract, the exquifite trout is found, that feeds on gold. Fierce
dogs inhabit along the banks, which growl at the Turk and
"his fubject Morlacks only, and are ready to tear them to
pieces. The marshy lake fupplies from ſeven to ſeven years,
"vaft numbers of eels for our ufe. The crabs likewife with a
"hundred feet, called Schille, of a palms length, fwim before
us. The crowned Dentice are found of more exquifite taſte
near this city than in any other place. And it is but juſt
"that thefe do honour to the fituation; for here the moſt noble
"fiſhes of the fea meet, in fhoals, to pay their court to the
66
"6
<<
<<
66
king, wandering about in their paſture; and fometimes the
"fiſh that inhabits the fand, comes tamely upon the dry land.
"But a more wonderful creature was once feen here, for a
"marine unfociable man was caught. The fea nouriſhes for
us near its whirlpools, the Kotoragne* remarkable for their
large fize; and its rocks underwater are fo rich, that branches
"of coral grow on them. Far from the fea within land, we
"have falt waters where falt is cryftalifed. The fame of the
"noble ſweet juice, obtained by incifion on the iſland of Srim-
cane, (a) is ſpread over the world; and the continent pof-
66
feffes
* I found no body at Sibenico who knew what kind of fiſh this Kotoragne is.
The general dialect of this poem is not underſtood there, and reſembles none of
thoſe now uſed in Venetian Dalmatia.
[ 135 ]
"
<<
"feffes ftill more glorious qualities; for there the manna falls
in honied dew. There the women boldly dare to cut the li-
gaments of their fætus, which lives notwithſtanding and walks
(b). And here thoſe who were wounded in the head, and
"whoſe brain was cut aſunder, have lived a year and a day
"after."
Among the particularities of Sibenico mentioned in this curi-
ous piece, the marine unfociable man, that was taken, feems to
me worthy of obſervation.. Of the two ſpecies of manna taken
notice of by the writer, the first is certainly that which proceeds
from the fraxinus, by means of incifion, as is practiſed in the
proper feafon in Calabria, Apulia, the Maremme and Provence:
but this is fallen into difufe in Dalmatia. The other is proba-
bly that farinacious ſubſtance united with the dew, which is
annually gathered in the neighbourhood of Cracow, and makes a
fmall article of trade between that city and Warfaw. We have
fomething of the fame nature, in the months of Auguft and
September, at Cartila near Eſte in the Paduan territory.
Pietro Difnico took the greateſt part of thoſe hints of natural
hiſtory from the manufcript elegiac verſes of Giovanni Nardino,
Canon of Zagabria, fome of which are alſo inſerted in a manu-
fcript work of Tomeo Marnavich, but not expreffed with a
fcrupulous nicety, in the illyric paraphrafe. Nardino takes
notice of the produce of manna, and of the coral fiſhing thus:
Manna folo, benice, tuo fælicibus aftris
Ambrofias tribuit, nectareafque dapes.
The
[ 136 ]
The coral trade must have been well eſtabliſhed in that age at
Sibenico, as thefe verfes prove :
Hac quoque florefcit fpeciofis unda corallis,
Qui dites Indos, antipodofque petunt.
This author, among the many other advantages which he at-
tributes to his native country, mentions two fingular cuftoms,
one of which is ftill kept up. The following are the four verſes
in which they are deſcribed:
Sic trino dicata Deo dum fefta refulgent
Civis in hac fceptrum nobilis urbe tenet.
Hic prius oftenfo celebrat nova nupta Priapo
Connubium, et facias porrigit inde manus.
The King of Sibenico is élected before the Chriſtmas holi-
days, and continues fifteen days. I was not there at that ſeaſon,
fo only mention this from hearfay. He has the marks of royal
authority; fuch as, the keys of the city gates are brought to him
every night, while his mock reign lafts; he has a diftinct feat
in the cathedral, and is judge of the actions of thoſe who com-
poſe his ephimeral court. It is no longer a gentleman who makes
this burleſque figure of king, but an ordinary peaſant. Yet he
has a good houſe affigned for his lodging; walks through the
city crowed with corn fpikes, cloathed in fcarlet, according to
the faſhion of the country, and attended by many officers. The
The governor entertains him at dinner, as well as the bishop;
and whoever meets him in the ſtreet bows to him. The fub-
urb towards the land, as well as that towards the fea, has each
their king, but they cannot enter the city without permiffion
from the city monarch.
I did
[ 37 ]
I did not think it requifite to inform myſelf much concerning
thoſe preliminaries of marriage indicated by the canon of Za-
gabria, who, no doubt knew perfectly well, that this prudent
ufage was then in force, as he is reputed a diligent obferver
of every thing relative to his country. If I could have found
the MS. work of Georgio Sifgoreo, which treated of the
most noble prerogatives of Sibenico, written about the year 15cp,
no doubt, I ſhould have been able to extract much intelligence,
not only in regard to ancient cuftoms now fallen into difufe,
but also to the phyfical history of the country.
+
Of the Fishing of the Lake, and the Foffil and Submarine Produc-
tions of the PORT of SIBENICO.
The lake of Scardona is altogether furrounded by hills of gra-
dual aſcent, and fufceptible of the beſt cultivation; but they lie
for the moſt part abandoned. Nor is the fishing practiced in a
better manner than agriculture in thefe parts, although they are
frequented by tunny, and other ſmaller emigrating fiſh. The
fiſhermen attend to little elfe befides the daily provifion of fuit-
able fiſh, for the tables of the inhabitants of Sibenico and Scar-
dona. Lizze, Palamide, Dentici, crowned Orate, Triglie, eels, and
many other ſpecies of fiſh of equal goodneſs are caught in theſe
waters, but by a very ill contrived and flovenly method. The
Schille, a palm long, mentioned by Difnico, is common in the
lake of Scardona, and the bay of Sibenico, are truly a delicious
morfel. They have no regular fiſhing for eels, though the mar-
ſhy river Goducchia, certainly produces a great plenty; and, no
doubt, the fame plenty might be found in the muddy parts of
the lake, near the city of Scardona.
}
T
All
[ 38 ]
2
All the fides of thefe internal bays are of marble, and all
nearly of the fame kind of fubftance. The common Dalmati-
an marble prevails, fometimes more, and fometimes lefs full of
fiftulous and broken pieces of teftaceous bodies; often divided
into horizontal inclined ftrata, and fometimes alfo fubdivided
vertically. I had a drawing taken of one of the most re-
markable places on that ſhore, called Suppliaſtina, which means..
perforated ftone, (P. VI.) and takes its denomination from the
hole B, formed in the top of the naked rock, and paffing quite
through it. There is not, perhaps, on all the coafts, of Dal--
matia, nor within land, neither do I believe, among all the
mountains of Italy, which I have vifited, a fingle; fpot better
calculated to convince a perfon prepoffeffed by the falfe opinion
of the exiſtence of calcareo-marine vertical ftrata, improperly
fo called, in their natural pofition.
The ſmall promontory
کھے
}
ftretches into the canal A, which extends itfelf towards the
lake of Scardona. On the oppofite fide are feen the fallacious
appearances of the veins C, almoſt perpendicular; but én exa-
mination, the line EEEE is diſcovered, conftituting the primi
tive divifion of the ftrata, and confirmed by the difference of
the fubftances lodged in the marble. Other fimilar lines are
diſcoverable higher up; and that which manifeftly fhows the-
different origin of thefe and the vertical lines, is, that the firſt
are ſcarcely viſible, and rarely difcontinue the folidity of the
mafs; and the fecond are evident fiffures, fometimes narrower,
and fometimes broader. The channel of St. Antonio, that leads
from the port of Sibenico to the fea, likewife exhibits a fingular
appearance of ftrata worthy of obfervation. For the divifions.
of the marble fide, are at firft much inclined towards the inter-
nal promontory of the port; then they become, by little and
little, more erect, till they are quite vertical; and at laſt, all
at
A View of SUPPLIA STINA in the Harbour of SEBENICO.
دید
贊成
​B
زاده
P138
Jac. Leonardif sc..
[ 139 ]
at once changing their nature, they become finuous in the moſt
extravagant directions. It is not eafy to give a fatisfactory ex-
planation of this phenomenon, if we will not believe it to pro-
ceed from the various motion of the waters of that ancient fea,
which fucceffively dafhing together the component parts of theſe
calcareous ftrata, carried them, fometimes in one, and ſome-
times in another direction, according to the currents and
ftorms prevailing at different periods.
The marble fhores of the port of Sibenico, in many places,
fhew evident marks of diflocation, which poffibly may
have been the confequences of fome, violent earthquake. The
grotto of St. Antonio is remarkable enough; for its vault
is formed of the angle of two pieces of the hill, which,
in falling, were joined together. The long hanging rock is
alfo obfervable; it ftands on the little peninfula Delle-fornaci,
near the city, and extends near a mile in length, in a direction
oppofite to the féa, on a baſe of a tenacious barren earth, of a
bluish colour, and marine, but without teftaceous bodies. The
Frumentari which are confined in the hard ſtone, are the only
diſtinguiſhable ſpecies of foffil bodies to be ſeen on that ſpot.
I made a trial of fifhing for marine productions in the greateſt
depth of the canal, or ftrait of St. Antonio, making uſe of a
boat, and coral fiſhing tackle; by which means, we drew from
the bottom, various pieces of that ftoney cruft, which in many
places forms itſelf at the bottom of teftaceous fragments,
fand, and mud concreted together. Every one of thefe pieces
extracted, appeared to me an island peopled with fubmarine be-
ings. I examined haftily the red oloturi; alſo the red and ar-
borous ſpunges, and other congenerous Zoophytes; fome of
T 2
them
[140]
༈
them defcribed, and fome ftill but little known to naturalifts.
But the want of time, and proper means, and the particular
ſeaſon hindered me from examining with due attention, theſe
various objects. I difcovered alfo, on the fame fragments,
many other living animalcules of a viſcous nature; parafitical
infects, naked worms, efchare and fungites, inhabited by their
polypes; of which, I hope to write more particularly on a
future occafion. I fhall, however, attempt to defcribe to you,
as well as I can, a new fpecies of Terabratula, which hitherto I
have not found in the books of the marine conchiliogy. Baron
de Hupfch alone has given a figure, that reſembles it much, in
plate IV, No. 16, 17.* by the name Conchites anomius Eifliaco-
Juliacenfis perulam referens. He believed, and with reaſon, that
the original of the petrification found by him in Eifel, in the
Duchy of Juliers, was not known.
}
'
L
Although the Terebratula does not. correfpond identically,
with thofe figured by Hupfch,. I am inclined to believe it
the original of his, and the rather, becauſe I have ob-
ſerved, that there is fome difference of configuration between
one individual and another of theſe in my poffeffion. The moſt
regular, is that which is repreſented fig. 1. p. VII. It has gib-
bofities both in the under and upper hell, and is fubftriated
lengthwife as well as acrofs. Juft in the middle of the gingly-
mus, by which the two unequal valves are kept united, there is
a hole through which the foot of the animal paffes, and ferves.
to keep it faft, as it were at anchor, on fuch bodies as fuit it
beft; in the fame manner as is obferved in the lower valve of
all
t
* Nouvelles decouvertes de quelques teflaces petrifies rares, & inconnus, &c. par
J. G. C. A. Baron de Hupfch, a Cologne, 1771, in 8vo.
[ 14 ]
*
4
all the oftrea and pectens before they have acquired fufficient
ſtrength to live without fupport; ſo it is alſo with the conche
anatifera, the Patella, and ſeveral ſpecies of Turbines. There is
no doubt, that the progreffive motion of the Terebratula of Si
benico (if it has any) depends entirely on the ufe of this foot.
The fig. 2, is much more like the Peridiolites of Hupfch. The
internal formation of this ſhell of mine is alſo fingular, and de-
ferves to be deſcribed to the naturalifts, who probably have not
had occafion to examine it. In its natural ftate, I did not think
it ſo worthy of obſervation, as it appears when dead and defic--
cated. See it in fig. 3, but do not imagine it is endowed with
fo much force, as to be able of itſelf to lie thus expanded; no,
it is furniſhed with fufficient fupport by means of an elaborate
teſtaceous forked appendix, which grows out of the pofterior
extremity of the cover, as reprefented in fig. 4. It would be.
worth while to examine, if many of the foffil productions of
lower Germany do not agree with originals living in the deepeſt
abyſſes of our fea. Who knows if thereby the number of petri
factions derived from teftaceous ſhells, and the labours of Poly-
pes not known, might not, by degrees be leffened? The Siberi-
co Terebratula was taken from a depth of a hundred and eighty
feet or more; and in the caverns, from whence the coral is fifh-
ed, the Terebratula are found much deeper. I faw one of them
up
within the coral fubftance which had grown over it.
hut
སྐ
Of
*This fpecies of teftaceous fhell is found, when young, adhering to ſtronger
bodies of the fame kind, by means of a foot which paffes through a little hole,
Left by provident nature at their production from the egg. Among the foffil pec-
[tens found in the hills of Borgo San Donnino, I have frequently met with fuch.as
I had little ones on their back; and nothing is more common in our fea,
1
}
}
}
I 142 ]
Of the Village and Valley of SLOSELLA.
The first place of the territory of Sibenico, that one meets
with on the Side of Zara, is the village of Slofella, fituated in a
large valley which bears that name, and defended by a thick
wall on the land fide. The inhabitants ſay that the denomina-
tion of Slofella, which is equivalent to Malvillaggio, i. e. curft
village, was given by the Turks in the times of their incurfions,
becauſe they found the inhabitants bold, and always ready to
oppoſe them. But whatever may have been the original of this
name, it certainly ſuits the inhabitants extremely well. I ftaid
there many days, availing myſelf of the friendſhip of the Abbè
Count Girolamo Draganich Veranzio, to whoſe illuftrious fa-
mily the village belongs; and hence I had a better opportunity
of obferving with convenience here, than in other places of Dal-
matia.
L
The ground of Slofella affords nothing worthy of particular obſer
vation; it is generally of marble, which is frequently cavernous, and
full of ftalactites. The external aſpect of the country is horrid, on
account of the nakedness of the mountains, which are intirely
ſpoiled by the inconfiderate brutality of the inhabitants. Nor has
the plain that ſtretches along the fea, any degree of amenity; for,
through their obftinate ftupidity in agriculture, the vines, olives,
and cornfields are all equally ill managed. The lands cultivat-
ed by Count Veranzio only diftinguish themſelves at a dif
ftance, by the chearful green with which they are covered,
as do likewife the few woods that remain, and of which he
has the fole difpofal. He is endeavouring to encourage the
growth of his young fraxini, by rooting out the brambles
and fhrubs ſcattered among them, that they may the fooner.
be
[143]
be ready to yield manna by incifion. It is very probable that
theſe attentions will prove fuccefsful, as the fituation is perfectly
fuited to every product of warm climates. I made fome incifions
on the Lentifcus, and though the trunk of the tree, on which
the operation was tried, was not large, and it was ſurrounded
with thorns, and parafitical plants, yet it yielded fome maftich,
little indeed, but enough to fhew its excellent quality. There is
great plenty of Lentifcus about Slofella; but the inhabitants cut
and deſtroy all forts of trees, and fhrubs, without diftinction,
for firewood and other ufes, fo they never have time to grow to
an age requifite to give any confiderable product..
#
?
$
C
The many ftreams, which iffue from the bottoms of the moun-
tains,' and mix with the falt waters of the valley of Stofella,
invite thither a great number and variety of fishes. I did not in-
form. myſelf minutely of the adventitious fpecies found there,
and hence, perhaps, you will blame my negligence and inattention.
But the chief object of my attention was that ſpecies alone, whoſe
paffage is copious and conftant, and therefore deferves fome con-
fideration from government, as an object of national economy
and commerce. I with it was in my power to declare war
againft the northern fifhes which invade our Italy, as the men
uſed to do in the barbarous ages; and fhould think myſelf happy
could I arm the fiſhermen of the Adriatick againſt theſe foreign
intruders. Every feaſon brings fhoals of fiſhes to the valley of
Slofella. In the cold months, and particularly in the fharpeft
days of winter, vaft numbers of mullets crowd thither, allured
by the warmth of the freſh waters, which, fpringing from the
bowels of the mountains,. mix themfelves with the ſea before
they have fuffered the impreffion of the rigid air. The inhabi-
tants of the neigbouring villages, at theſe ſeaſons, meet, bringing
with
I
1
E
[
44 ]
?
દ
J
ཝཱ ༣
L
ક્
MOBRCA: 1437
»
4
with them a fort of net, called by them frufati, or frights, of a
breadth and depth adapted to thefe fhallow waters. The noiſe
and confufion they make by beating the water with their oars,
flicks, and ſtones, frighten the mullets; and in flying to-
wards the fea, they fall into the nets, or by fecking the furface
the moment they feel any obftacle, the peafant fishermen ftand
ready prepared with various inftruments, and kill great numbers
of them. The ſpring brings into theſe waters the Xutizze, or dove
fiſh, of the ray genus, but of a more firm and fibrous ſubſtance;
and in fummer the fardines and mackrel come in hoals. Yet
notwithſtanding the great plenty and variety of emigrating
well as other fiſh, the lazy Slofellian neglects every means of pro-
fiting by them: he is contented if he can find provifion for the
day, and often devours, without bread, or any fort of fauce, all
the fish he has catched. The cuttle fish is the univerfal
food of thefe idle inhabitants, during the ſpring ſeafon; and
they catch them, by laying under water the branches of trees
with their leaves, to which the fishes adhere, in order to leave
their eggs. If any greater or more complicated labour, was
needful, I believe they would rather chufe to want food than to
perform it. For to fuch a degree do they hate their own ad-
vantage, as well as that of others, that to thwart the introduc-
tion of drag nets, though made by their own landlord, they ſcat-
tered large ftones over the fhallow parts of the valley; notwith-
ſtanding that, by the exerciſe of theſe nets, many men of their
own village were to have been daily employed. In general all
the peasants along the fea coaft, are equally lazy and malicious
perhaps becauſe they are too much protected by the laws, and
put on an equality with their maſters. Yet it appears very plain
to me, that fubordination is abfolutely neceffary to render thefe
maritime people happy; and in fome cafes, even forcible and vi-
42
*
[
سمجھ
9% 0) bauOI
* 3
olent
14
[
145 ]
olent methods would prove very uſeful to rouſe them from their
habitual indolence. But the inland people require a very
diffe-
rent treatment, as their diſpoſitions and tempers are quite con-
trary, and by mildneſs and lenity, tempered with a proper de-
gree of authority, they may eaſily be brought to do any thing
for their own and for the publick good.
Obfervations on the ANDROSACE.
Among the many fubaqueous productions of the valley of
Slofella, the Androface merits particular obfervation; it was
reckoned among the plants by Vitaliano Donati, and among
the Zoophytes by Linnæus, who named it Tabularia acetabu
lum. I will not, at preſent, declare to which of theſe opi-
nions I am inclined, becauſe I am not yet fufficiently convinced
about the point in queſtion, and believe it neceffary to examine
the Androface at different ſeaſons, before a decifion can be given.
But I will confefs to you, that, having carefully examined, with
the microſcope, both freſh and dried fpecimens, I could not dif-
cover evident characters of a Zoophyte. On comparing the ob-
ſervations of Donati with theſe ſpecimens, taken from various
parts of the valley of Slofella, and particularly from the rock of
San Steffano, I added to the margin of his book the following
annotations: ift The Androface, which, according to this au-
thor, very rarely in our feas rifes to above an inch and a half, is
found to exceed three inches all around the above mentioned rock,
where it grows almoſt to the ſurface of the water. 2. The fila-
ments that riſe from the concave part of the fungiform top or
crown of the Androface, far from being fo minute and delicate that
they cannot be diſcerned even by the microfcope, unless when the Andro-
face
U
[ 146 ]
ફ્
face is in the water, where they appear foft, and of a filver colour, ex-
tending as far as the circumference of the crown ;* are, on the
contrary, fo vifible, that, without the help of a microſcope,
I could difcern them, and perceive that their colour was not in-
clining to filver, but, rather, to that of cinnamon. Moreover
their length exceeds fo confiderably the circumference of the
crown; that, out of the water, and gathered in a bundle by
themſelves, I could make a drawing of them, as you will fee-
in Fig. V. a. (P. VII.) and which repreſents an Androface ir-
regular in the circumference of the crown itſelf. 3. I found
fome Androfaci in which the filaments could not be difcovered;
and from the centre of the crown a kind of piſtillum arofe. Ex-
pecting to find another opportunity of obferving them more ac--
curately, I neglected the firſt ſpecimens, which I had collected
in the month of Auguft, and I had it not in my power to meet
with them again, being obliged to proceed on my journey far
from Slofella. 4. The Androface, fometimes, has two crowns,
one above the other, as in Fig. vi. and fometimes (but much.
more rarely) I have found it dichotomous, as you will fee in Fig.
vii. The only fpecimen of a dichomotous Androface that I was
able to preſerve, during my long travels, was ſpoiled here at Ve-
nice, though after I had had the pleaſure of fhewing it to feveral
lovers of natural curiofities. Some of thofe with two crowns,
which, though lefs rare, are not frequent, remained in entire
prefervation, and I placed them in the collection of our learned
botanical friend Dr. Antonio Turra of Vicenza. And if I return
into Dalmatia, which is not improbable, I hope to be able to
give a more exact anatomy, and a better drawing of the Andro-
face than that of Donati.
<
·
* Donati and Saggio di ſtoria naturale, &c. p. 30 3г.
96 137
3
ན
*
of
[ 147 ]
ここ
​140.22
;
1/
Of the little Island, or Rock of St. STEFFANO.
1
There is plenty of Androface in the fish ponds at the foot of
the rock of St. Steffano, which ferve for the ufe of a few poor
friars who inhabit it; and, befides the Androface there are va-
rious fpecies of marine infects, which deferve particular atten-
tion™
fome of them fwim about in the water, fome adhere to
the ftones, and others ſhelter themſelves among the ulvæ, viri-
foidi, fuci, and conferva. I collected there a ſmall ſpecies of a
rough pentagon ftella, agreeing with the Afteria aculeata of Lin-
næus ; the Onifcus affillus, various Buccina and Purpura; Mituli,
whofe valves do not coincide; the Oftrica Lima; two different
Chytons, one faciated, another only variegated; fmall Nautili,
and Serpole lombricali, befides many other fpecies, that are every
where common in our feas. There are many fragments of Ro-
man tiles and urns ſcattered about this rock; many infcriptions
have also been dug up, but they were broken by thoſe barba-
rous friars, to pave their wretched court. The remains of an
infcription in bronze are ſtill to be ſeen thruſt into a wall; the let-
ters, as you may imagine, have been taken away. It is proba-
ble that this rock was a burying place, according to the lauda-
ble cuſtom of the ancients, who, more reafonable than us, in-
terred their dead bodies at a diftance from habitations, that the
dead, at least, might ceaſe to hurt the living.
J
32 A
>
#
n
+
2
+
Of the Ifland of MORTER.
*
Three miles beyond the rock of Steffano lies the iſland of
Morter, which the writers of Sibenico of the xvi century be-
lieved to be the Colentum of Pliny, alledging, as a proof of their
opinion, its diſtance from the mouth of the Tizio. I thought
proper to vifit this ifland, where certainly there was, in ancient
#
times,
[ 48 ]
2
times, fome ſettlement either Greek or Roman sabut few or no
veſtiges of any large town "are" now to be ſeen Indeed, the
only marks of ancient habitation are fome old tiles, fragments
of vaſes, and ſome hewn ſtones, among which I obferved beau
tiful pieces of a cornice, which must have belonged to fome mag
nificent and well built fabrick. Ancient coins and infcriptions
are frequently found; but the fufpicious temper of the inhabi
tants renders a ſearch for ſuch antiquities very difficult. I would
have been glad to have had it in my power to dig up fame in
ſcription that aſcertained the city of Colentum. The people of
the iſland told me, that, not many years ago, there were fome
remains of a wall on the top of the hill; but they were carried
away to build a church to the Madona of Gradina Whatever
name this Mand went by in former times, its fituation is certainly
beautiful and delicious as any can be. The hill rifes gradually,
and overlooks an arm of the fea, full of little iſlands and pros
montories, extending the profpect from its top to a part of the hills
in the territory of Zara, as far as the Bebian Alps. The ſmall woody
Mands of Vinik-Stari, Teghina, and Mali-Vinik, heighten the beau
ty of this fituation. The whole iſland of Morter, which is thirteen
miles round, is, for the most part, fufceptible of cultivation,
and under better management, would, no doubt, byield, rich
produce to its inhabitants. But its prefent inhabitants are a
worthless people; and it is obferved, that, in every› piraȚi
tiêal boat of thofe parts, there is, at least, one of thạt
Mand, who ferves. the robbers as pilot through all the ipaffes,
and as a guide to the most unfrequented creeks, and hiding
places. The ftrait, that divides the iſland of Morter from the
continent, is much frequented by ſmall barks and boats, efpeci-
cially in the ftormy feafons, when the navigation in the open
fed is too dangerous for them. In confequence of this paffage,
嘁
​there
[ 49 ]
་
there is, on that fide of the island, a large village of well built
hauſes, ſeveral of which are inhabited by trading people, in daly
circumſtances in though in that fituation, the adjacent rocks,
the oppofite continent, and the marble hills of the island itſelf
are quite bare, and afford the moſt frightful barren view. The
marble of this sifland, and of the leffer ones contiguous to it,
is full of marine bodies, which, probably, belong to the genus
of the Orthoceratites; in ſome places it is pierced by Phalades;
which grow
there to a fize that ſurpriſed me, fome of them ex-
ceeding four inches in length.
2v 119:41
卡
​The proprietors of the land on the iſland of Morter, reap
very little advantage from it; their tenants do not think them-
felves obliged to give them more than the fifth part of the wine
they make, and nothing of any other product. Hence the vine.
is but little cultivated by theſe malicious. peaſants, and the olive
is preferred, though fubject to more accidents than the vines
or the land is left for paſture.. The want of difcipline and ſub→
ordination, among theſe peaſants, now, in a manner, confirmed
by a combination of other unhappy circumstances, render any
attempt of the proprietors to recover the least part of their right,
extremely dangerous.. Agriculture. alfo fuffers the bad effects of
this vicious conftitution, which took its rife in the calamitous
times of contagion, or of irruptions of barbarians.; and it would
be a defirable event, if, in this happy age of peace and advance-
ment of national good, a ſuitable remedy were applied to this-
diſorder..
ん
​Fishing is not. much minded by the Morterines, though, in
the canals near their iſland, the tunny often paffes in large fhoals,
and many, loſe themſelves, and ſtay the winter, particularly in
the
[ 150 ]
I
the ſhallow water, near the hamlet of Ramina, where formerly
there were falt pits. The principle occupation of the Bettignani
who inhabit the weſtern extremity of the inland, is to gather,
macerate, fpin and weave the Genifta, which they go to fetch
even from the coaft of Iftria, and the islands of the Quarnafo.
They make cloth of this plant, of various kinds, which fome-
times is uſed for making facks, and fometimes fhirts, and pet-
ticoats. Doubtless, if this art was exercifed in a lefs flovenly
manner, much better manufactures might be derived from the
Genifta. The fea ſerves them for macerating the twigs.
!
T
Of TRIBOUHUG, VODIZZA, PARVICH, ZLARINE, and ZURI.
After paffing the ftrait of Morter, the firſt inhabited place on
the Continent is Tribouhug, or Tribouoni, an ifolated village, ugly
and miferable, furrounded by a wall, and joined by a ſtone
bridge to the ſhore. Towards the end of the laſt century Pap
pizza, a peafant extempore verfifier, was born here; he is ftill
famous for the number of verfes which he uſed to fing, accom-
panying them with the Guzla; but I could no find any thing of
his in writing.
Y
3 {
TEL
I
W4190 wh
"The village of Vodizza, little more than a mile diftant from
Tribouhug, has taken its name from the abundance of water found
every where about it; for Voda, in all the Sclavonian dialects,
fignifies awater. It cannot be faid that Vodizza abounds with
fprings; but there is a fubterraneous river, not fo large norwſo
deep as the wells of Modena, though of the fame nature. It
runs between the ftrata of the littoral marble, and, at high
tides, its water is not wholeſome. In whatever fpot there-
abouts they dig a well, the water is found at the fame
depth
[ 151 ]
f
Y
depth and with ſmall expence.
3:
The
77
appearance of the people
that I faw at church, did not indicate riches: yet the land of
Vodizza, as far as I could difcover about the habitations, is not
bad. The afcent from the fhore is eafy, and juft fufficient to
Seve-
preſerve the lands from being overflowed by the waves.
}
{
ral well cultivated little iflands form a delightful profpect from
}
}
this village. One of its moft confiderable products, as well as
of Tribouhug, are the Marafche cherries, of which, by diftil-
lation, they make Rofolio at Zara and Sibenico.
Parvich, Zlarine, and Zuri are the beſt peopled, and moft
confiderable iflands under the jurifdiction of Sibenico. They
contain a great number of fiſhermen, as well as induftrious la-
bourers of the land, who cultivate both the vine and, the olive
to great perfection. Theſe three iſlands fend every year, in the
fifhing feafon, forty large nets out of their different ports, and,
by the plenty of fish they catch, provide a comfortable liveli-
hood to a great number of families. But it remains to be wiſh-
ed, that the buyers of their falted fardines, mackrel, mullet,
&c. brought them to market at Venice; we might then exclude
a great part of that ſtinking and unwholſome fish, which, fince
the beginning of the prefent age, the Hollanders bring us, year
after year, in greater quantities, and which ſerve to poiſon the
poor tables of our peaſants. I flaid feveral days on one of theſe
iſlands; and the hope of being able to do ſome ſervice to my
country kept me occupied with that object much more than
with the ſearch of natural curiofities, that perhaps the fea might
have furniſhed me with. But I will not detain you on this fub-
ject, as ſuch details are rather calculated to intereft the economy
and political views of the government, than for learned foreign-
All theſe three iſlands were inhabited by the ancient Ro-
ers.
+
mans;
[152]
་
mans; and in each of them, are found monuments of that ha
tion which over-ran the then whole known world. At Zlarine
there was dug up, in the 16th century, the fepulchral marble
of a woman called Panfiana, with the title of queen.
The
learned of thofe times, who were numerous in the neighbour-
ing city, made many fruitleſs reſearches about the country from
whence that lady came thither; and finding no veftage in hifto-
ry, they conjectured, with great probability, that ſhe muſt have
been fome barbarous queen, who, after ferving to embelliſh the
victor's triumph, was baniſhed to that iſland to finiſh her days.
I could not find the infcription, nor indeed any other traces be-
fides thofe which the manufcript memorials of thoſe times fur-
niſhed we with.
3
रे
Parvich, though of fmall circuit, is extremely fertile. Every
product fucceeds in perfection there; I mean thoſe products of
which a very ſhallow ground is fufceptible; fuch as wine, oil,
mulberry trees, and fruit. The aſpect of this iſland is alſo very
pleaſant át a diſtance, whereas that of the others adjacent dif-
gufts the eye, by their too high, rocky and bare hills. The
name of Parvich ſeems to have been given it becauſe it is the
firſt one meets with on going out of the harbour of Sibenico
for the Illyric word parvi fignifies firſt.
1
·
+
The iſland of Zuri is mentioned by Pliny under the name of
Surium; and it feems that Parvich, and Zlarine, with many
other ſmaller iſlands, to the number of fifty and upwards, are
collectively called by him Celaduffa, plainly inverting the Greek
word dooxeλados, which means ill-founding, or noify. The text
of Pliny, if the common reading is followed, contains a notable
blunder in chorography; but this may be eaſily rectified by a
flight
ì
( 153 )
flight change in the punctuation, and read thus:. Nec pauciores
Trucones (Infula) Liburnica, Celaduffæ contra Surium. Bubus,
et capris laudata Brattia*. Zuri is, in reality, more expofed to
the fea than the others; and oppofite, between Zuri and the
continent, are Kaufvan, Capri, and Smolan, which name indicates
the ancient cuſtom of making rofin there. Tibat is inhabited
only by fhepherds; Seftre are fmall iſlands remarkable for an
excellent quarry of hard white ſtone, which might be uſed at..
much less expence, and would be much more durable than the
Vicentine ftones. Parvich and Zlarine are cultivated and popu❤
lous, befides many other fmaller islands. The dreſs of the
women of thefe Celaduffa is different from that of the females
of the Trucones, or iflands of the canal of Zara.
1
a
} १
+
But the remains of Roman habitations ftill to be feen on the
ifland of Zuri, ferve not near fo much to diftinguish it as its´´
coral fishing, which is never inconfiderable in the waters around »
it, and, thirty years ago, was of immenfe value, by means of as
very fertile bank then diſcovered. A lover of natural hiſtory,!"
inſtructed by the example of your celebrated Count Marfigli,
would make many valuable acquifitions, and curious difcoveries.
by fishing in the depth ſuited to the multiplication of coral,
and could not but wish to live fome months here in one of.."
thefe coral boats. How many of the Teftaceous tribe, ftill un-
knowns might not there be brought to light; and how many
originals of petrifactions, that are generally fuppofed loft or ex-
tinet (pecies, might not fall into our hands? I conceived this
with very earneſtly, but circumftances and reflections fuffered
me not to gratify it. Inftead of being guided by my inclina-
tion,
مجھے محمد
ས
X
*Plin. Hift. Nat. Lib. III. cap. ult.
[154]
tion, I thought it a more prudent meaſure to ſeek a larger field
of obfervation on the Continent, which would furniſh a greater-
variety of matter, a clos
#
དྷĪན༔ །
·ར《༤
; }
"
1
*
1
The coral fiſhing in our fea is carried on by ſubjects of the
King of Naples, who are in the fervice of a principal, who.
farms that privilege. Our iflanders, though frequently employ--
ed in the coral boats, have not yet been able to learn the won
derful art of extracting the coral from narrow and deep caverns:
under water. Yet certainly this art deferves particular encou
ragement. Corals form a rich article of commerce, even when
fold in its natural form; and it is the more to be wondered at,
that the art of fiſhing it is not well underſtood by the Dalmati
ans, confidering how ancient the trade of it is at Sibenico.
+
&
T
W U
L
}
Of the Lakes of ZABLACHIE, and MORIGNE.
4 ng. Virusa pal bas
In failing along the coaft from the port of Sibenico,
the plain, with ftony-lands of Zablachie are feen; and be-
yond them is the lake of the fame name, which communicates
with the fea, by means of a narrow artificial canal. In ram-
bling over theſe grounds, I found fpontaneous, maftich drops
hanging from the Lentifci, which. the hepherds have fuffered to
grow, to fhelter their flocks in the fcorching fummer's heat.
The lake, before the beginning of this age, ferved to form very
plentiful falt-pits; and feveral other lands thereabouts, fubject
to be overflowed by the fea, were employed, to the fame purpose.,
But now it is only a fish pond, and of very little confideration,
as no care is taken to maintain and multiply the fpecies. The
only particularity, that merits obfervation, is, its fand full of
ſmall ſhells, of elegant ſtructure, perfectly well preſerved, and
fometimes with the live infect. Some of theſe have hitherto
*
not
ī
S..
i
1010
I
THE
II
IV
Ja
V
VI
VII
VII
Jac. Leonardifsc.
XI
?
IX
X
a
b
b
C
1
-
XII
XIII
XIV
P. 155.
1
RO
ویرا برا
[ 155 ]
not been deſcribed. Such, for example, is that which you fee,
according to its natural bulk, and alfo magnified by, the micro-
ſcope in Pl. VII. fig. 8..9. which would refemble an egg cut
at the top, if it were not ſpirally ftriated from the bottom to the
circumference of the mouth. The inſect, that inhabits this ſhell
has no operculum of any kind; it is altogether black as a coal,
which renders it extremely difficult to diſtinguiſh the very mi-
nute parts. In the fame manner is found the white microſcopic
Nautilus deſcribed by Bianchi in his celebrated work *. De con-
chis minus notis. The cultivated land contiguous to this lake is
white, and produces abundantly.
Three fhort miles from the lake of Zablachie is the falt lake of
Morigne, communicating with the fea by means of a natural ca-
nal, which ſtretches within land oppofite to the iſland of Cra-
pano. It is about three miles in circuit; the mouth a hundred
and fifty feet broad; and its bottom, which is overgrown with
fea-weed, is, for the moſt part, muddy, and fo`ſhallow, that, at
Tow water, the tops of theſe weeds appear, in many places, on a
level with the water. The perennial ſtream of Ribnich, that runs
into it, invites the fifh thither, and the excellent feed they meet
with, detains them. It would be very eaſy to make a cloſe fiſh-
pond of this lake, from whence plenty of all forts of fiſh might
be obtained, with much greater advantage than the extent of the
fpot feems to promife. There are two rocks towards the weſt
fide of Morigne, on which, in former times, there muft
have been buildings, for many fquared ftones, and' the foun-
dation of walls, are ſtill to be feen. Perhaps from thefe re-
mains the vulgar tradition had its rife, that, a city had been
fwallowed up in the fituation now occupied by the water.
X 2
Z
The
* Jani Planci Ariminenfis De conchis minus notis.
1
156 1
7
$
The fiſhing is managed there, in the fame flovenly manner as at
Slofella, by the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages.. The
fhell fiſh of the lake of Morigne, are almost entirely the fame as
thoſe in the lagunes of Venice, and Comacchio; and if the fea
carries thither the feeds of other fpecies, that love deep water,
they do not propagate, but return to a more ſuitable fituation.-
Among the microſcopic ſhells of Morigne, befides a variety of
Cornua ammonis, and other minute bodies, common to almoft:
all fandy and muddy bottoms of the Adriatick, there are many-
Porpites, like thofe foffil ones fometimes found in your. Bolog
neſe brooks, and which have been waſhed down from the higher-
hills. The chafms of Brendola hill in the Vicentine contain
alfo great quantities.. Their bulk originally does not exceed that
of half a grain of millet. Examined by the microſcope, they
-appear wholly compoſed of ſmall lines, or divifions, very irregu--
larly interfected, and forming a great number of cells for the
Polypès fabricators and inhabitants of the little city. Pl. VII.
fig. 10. 11.
{
The lands adjacent to the lake, are of the fame quality as thofe
around Zablachie, and both theſe make a part of what is called.
the Campo d'abbaſſo, which is by far the moſt fertile fpot in the
territory of Sibenico. The common. Dalmatian marble, and a
kind of lenticular foft flone, prevail in the more elevated parts.
of this tract of country, near the fea. Advancing nearer the
bottoms of the high mountains,, I found them compoſed of con-
creted clay, like thoſe of the coast near Zara.
Of SIMOSKOI and ROGOSNIZA..
}
}
The weather did not permit me to land at the place now cal.
led old Sibenico, where, perhaps, I ſhould have found ſome
monu-.
[ 157 ]
$
2
monument of the good old times; though Peutinger's table
does not place any ancient ſettlement in that neighbourhood.
シ
​25 B
The laſt maritime places, that. I vifited under the jurifdiction
of Sibenico, were the two ſmall islands Simoſkoi and Rogofniza..
The higheſt parts of Simoſkoi are of common. Dalmatian mar-
ble, and, towards the bottom of the eminences, the ftone is lefs
rough, and quite full of marine exotic bodies, which may be
moſtly reduced under the genus of Orthoceratites,, though diſtin-
guiſhable by particular articulations. The fubftance of fome of
thefe bodies is remarkably porous, notwithſtanding the change.
they have undergone; and innumerable little cells, may be dif-
tinguiſhed, by the help of an ordinary glaſs. Obferve at fig. 12,
one of the most curious fpecimens ;. it is now in England, in the
-precious collection of the Earl of BUTE, the noble Mecenas of
natural history in that kingdom. The following fig. 13. was
carefully drawn by Count Faufto Dragenich Veranzio, from a
ſpecimen in my poffeffion, which came from the fole coronate.
The interior part a, a, minutely ftriated,. is the nucleus of the
Orthoceratites, compofed of a very bright fpato-calcareous cry-
ſtaliſation; and, on breaking theſe nuclei, the veftiges of con-
camerations, divided in two, by a partition, are often found..
The outer part b, b, is alſo ſtriated longitudinally, like an im--
perfect Amiantus, and is the ancient ſpoil of the animal, con-
verted into a lefs white,. and lefs bright fpar, though very cloſe..
The fubftance a, c, which encloſes this petrifaction, and covers
its exterior lineaments, is a hard whitish. common. ftone. It
would be tedious to deſcribe the variety of this ſpecies of petri-
faction, which is met with all along the coafts of Dalmatia,
though Donati could hardly find any diſtinguiſhable foffils there.
I will only add one more (fig. 14) which reprefents a piece of
+
12
*
lapīdébus.
}
[ 158 ]
lapideous Orthoceratites with the external fuperficies ftriped and
channeled, fomething like the cardo, or hinges of a ſhell.
A fhallow and narrow canal, which at low water does not ad-
mit the paffage of boats, divides this ifland from the continent;
and attentively examining the oppofite banks, it is eaſy to per-
ceive that this feparation is not very ancient. The extremity
of Simoſkoi, that ſtretches towards the neighbouring fhore, is
compoſed of white faline marble, the fame as that of the fhore
oppoſite to it. It is not unlikely, that the intermediate ſpace
was dug up in former times, to furniſh materials for the fculp-
tor; and this conjecture appears the more probable, becauſe the
marble of Simofkoi reſembles the ancient ftatuary marble uſed at
Rome. The corroſion effected by the fea falt on the portion of
this ftratum that remains alternatively above, and under water,
according as the tide ebbs and flows, rendering the fuperficies of
the marble rough and knotty, diſcovers a quantity of fragments
of the marine cryftallized bodies that compofe it. The natu-
ralifts, and fome of the moft celebrated, as Swab, and Rafpe,
have fuppoſed the ſubſtance of faline marble void of extraneous
bodies; and, indeed, I will not pretend to affirm, that, în all
faline marbles, the veftiges of fuch bodies are preferved fo as to
be diſtinguiſhable. Yet before I denied it, I would viſit the quar-
ries, and examine pieces that had been long expoſed to be waſh-
ed by the ſea, and to the action both of the air and the fun. The
marble
>
}
{
Marmor (micans) particulis fpathofo-fquamofis. Linn.
Hoc petrificatis deftituitur. Swab.
L
Of this marble of the iſland Simofkoi there ought to be a variety fpecified que
pelrificatis fcatet, and the fame thing may be obſerved in the ancient Roman ftatu-
ary marble, which was very different from the faline marble of the Greek iflands,
whereóf ſtatues were alfo made.
[ 159 ]
marble of Carrara, at leaſt at first fight, feems to fall under this
learned and ingenius explanation. But however this may be, it
certainly admits of no doubt, that the white marble of Simoſkoi
is precifely of the fame nature as the ancient Roman ftatuary
marble; and hence it would be of no fmall importance to exa-
mine this ſpot carefully, in order to diſcover if pieces of a pro-
per meaſure could be dug up. It is ridiculous to think of draw-·
ing advantage from marble that appears above ground, or to-
form a judgment of it from the fuperficies of the exterior ſtra-
tum. And if the quarry of Simofkoi was not found proper for
fſtatuary uſes, a ſearch might be made in the neighbouring parts
with almoſt a certainty of fuccefs.
On this ifland fome foffil bones are found, though in a very
fmall quantity. But on Rogofniza, and the rocks of Muja and
Pianca contiguous to it, they are found in large maffes. The
fituation of Rogoſniza lies ſo much out of the way, that nothing
but the violence of contrary winds can induce veffels to touch at it.
It is fituated in a large bay, and may ferve for a harbour to ſmall
veffels. The inhabitants are poor and wretched. The Orthoceratites
prevail in the lower ftratum of the marble on this ifland; in the
clefts there are maffes of flowered alabaſter, or as it may rather be
called, red veined ftalactites. I faw foffil bones there, at a diſtance
from their native fituation, confined in large broad pieces of
concreted ftone, and accidentally placed before the houſes of
thofe peaſants. Walking about the habitations of Rogofniza,
I happened to diſcover, in the hard marble rock, a curious foffil
very much reſembling horns, and recollect to have obſerved, in
the publick muſeum of natural hiſtory at Padua, a piece of the
fame fpecies, under the denomination of Cornu Vacinum.
however, of opinion, that the ceratomorphous foffil of Rogoſni-
za, as well as the other at Padua, are Orthoceratites of which
I am
the
[ 160 ]
the fpecies are now loft, or are the produce of more diſtant ſeas.
You will probably ſay that the name of Orthoceratites is but ill
fuited to a recurvous foffil; and I agree with you; fo you may
call it, if you pleaſe, Campiloceratites.
I hope this long letter may induce you to make me a fimilar
return; and if you think I have detained you with particulars
not very intereſting, exert your generofity by giving me a hun-
dred for one, as you can well do it without fear of impoverishing
yourſelf.
Verlika
Cettina f
Bistrizza f
KLIVNO
M. Prologh
polarete
I.otok
Rude
Lovrech
Sepolcreti
Ciftas AA
Rado biglia
Novafel
。 Gradaz
Cacola p
Verba
M.sutinal
Mutcho
SIGN
M.Visoschiza
Radofich
Moranka
ނ
Suhidolar
I E
Bofsiglina
Vinifchie
Rogofniza
RA
hetto
4 2.3 4
I.Pianca
SCALE
10
OF M
Celfine
Prolofaz
Loquicich
Sepolcretu
A
A
Duare
M.Dinara
Flame
P
Gatia
POGLIZ
Lirundubrava
Prugovo
Clapariz
terach
CEISSA
Kamen
Stobrez
Duvno
Studenovril.
IMOSKI
Paludi
Runovich
M.Biocova
M. Clobuk
!
MOSTAR
Narenta
Traglina f
Rafok
Vergor
Coctorch
Casio
del Pervan
GLIVBVS KI
Trebifat £
Sepolcreto
A A A
Antica Via militare
L. Jeferaz
Bashinskas
Blato
Daching
Chadar
Rovine d
Marona
L. di Defna
Mescovich
XAXABIE
Slivno
che di Narenta
warnaz
Rick
MISSA
Poſtire
Frullice
Justella
Puciſchie
Veloberdo
Caratus
Tucep
MACARSKA
Farnich
Martin
Podgora Dre
Sepolcreto
▲▲▲ Draceva?
Rena
S. Giorgio
Xigngoft
ogofthie
Mala
Ballia
Captagn
poſtrog.
Capo S. Giorgio
PALATRO
M.Marian
S. Pietro
•Mirce
S.Giovanni
S.Giorgio
Bobovifchie
So Mitna
Splifka
R
NEREST
Capo Pellegrina
LESINA
30
Lissa
I.LISSA
Comisa
BOL
Varbof
Verba sudegli
Citta Vecchia
orovaz
3
MAP
of the Territories of
TRAV, SPALATRO,
AND MAKARSKA;
the PRIMORIE and NARENTA,
with the Adjacent
ISLANDS.
LMELEDA
P. 161.
[ 161 ]
T O
Mr. J. JAMES FERBER,
MEMBER OF THE MINERALOGICAL COLLEGE
O F
S
WE DE N,
FELLOW OF SEVERAL SOCIETIES, &c.
A
"Of the County of TRAU.
Tour last parting, when you undertook your journey
through the mountains of Italy, for the purpoſe of thoſe
obfervations which have fince gained you ſo much honour, and
done fo great ſervice to the learned naturaliſts of the north, then
not well acquainted with ancient volcanos, I promiſed to com-
municate to you a part of my obſervations on Dalmatia, whither
I was alſo preparing to fet out. You required a ratification of
my promiſe in writing, when you favoured me with your friend-
dy letters in that diſtant province; and now, fince I am deprived
of the honour and happineſs of your company, in viſiting this
country, where your inſatiable defire of ſeeing new objects rela-
tive to natural hiftory, cannot on that account be gratified,
I will readily proceed to the performance of my promiſe.
Y
Of
[162]
Of the District of TRA U.
The juriſdiction of Trau, begins oppofite to the iſland Rogof
niza, and extends, for thirty miles along the fea coaft, almoſt to the:
ruins of Salona, comprehending ſeveral inhabited iflands, befides
a greater number of uninhabited rocks. One of theſe is called
the little Pianca, and held to be dangerous in navigation, by its
being expoſed to the open fea, while the others are defended by
the larger iſlands.
'
量
​J
i L
>
*
One cannot help fmiling, when, in the first volume of the
Illirico Sacro of the Jefuit F. Farloti, we are told, that the pafs
of the Pianca is fo much the more dangerous, becauſe, there
the waters of the rivers Narenta and Cettina. meet thofe of the
Kerka in different directions. The truth is, that the mouth of
the Narenta lies at leaſt eighty five miles diftant from this place;.
and that river runs fo flowly into the fea, that the tide rifes
above twelve miles up its current.
The river Cettina is
forty miles diftant from the Pianca, and lofes itfelf in the
fea below Almiffa. Befides, the Kerka falls into the lake
of Scardona, at least thirty miles from the Pianca, and twelve
from the fea, whither it is conveyed, together with the wa
ters of the large harbour of Sibenico. From this blunder of
a very learned man, writers fhould learn not blindly to trust to
the informations of ignorant people. Among the moſt remarka-
ble places on the coaft under the jurifdiction of Trau, a lover of
antiquity will certainly take notice of Trau vecchio, or old Trau,.
as it is vulgarly called. It lies at little more than twenty four
miles from Sibenico, and about nine from Trau. Giovanni.
Lucio, the celebrated Traurine writer, believed this ſpot to
have been antiently the Prætorium' of Peutinger's 'table. I am
↑
<
not
[163]
not willing to attribute to the Romans the choice of ſo bad a ſpot,
nor fo bad a taſte in building. The fituation is unhappy in
every reſpect; being out of the way, without a harbour, and
without cultivable land; the building is very coarfe, without
any mark of ſquared ftones, according to the good Roman archi-
tecture. The ruinous walls which bear the name of old Trau,
appear to me rather the remains of fome vaft private habitation
than of even a midling population; they are compoſed of irre-
gular ftones taken from the contiguous hill.
The floors, which in fome places ſtill remain, are of a coarſe
mixture, though bound together by fo ftrong a cement, that it
ftill refifts the force of time and of the fea. I am inclined to be-
lieve theſe ruins rather of Grecian architecture of later ages than
the Roman; and a kind of chapel, that is ſtill diſtinguiſhable, in-
creaſes my fufpicion. In all the neighbourhood of this defolate
place, no infcription of any kind is to be found; not one hewn
ftone, or piece of mofaic, or fine marble; things that are always
feen, in more or less quantity, where the Romans inhabited.
The rock which abounds all along the ſhore of old Trau, is full
of marine fiftular Bodies, of the fame kind as thofe I obferved in
the iſlands of the channel of Zara, and which are very frequent-
ly feen in the Ifole Coronate.
Of BOSSIGLINA, and the Peninfula ILLIDE, or HYLLIS.
A few miles beyond the ruins juſt deſcribed lies the hamlep
of Veneſchie, near, port Mandola, where, formerly there was
a mine of Peffafphaltus; but I could not poffibly find any
ſpecimen of it. On the road to Trau lies the village of Boffig-
lina, in whoſe denomination Lucio thought he faw clearly the
Y 2
cor-
[ 164" F
corruption of the name of the Bulini. He ventured to fix very
narrow limits to the peninfula Hyllis,fuffering himſelf to be
dw
by the etymological conjecture, that if the Bulini inhabited
this tract, there remained, "öf courſe,"nadother room for the
I, befides the final extent of ground, known by old geo-
graphers, under the name of Promontorium Diomedis, and which
ftretches into the fea between the ifland of Rogofniza, and the
village Boffiglina, a feod of the fee of Frau. Thus, the extent
of Hyllis, from one point to the other, would be no more than
*
twelve miles, and its greatest breadth would not exceed five
ない
​;
meaſures which feem by no means to agree with the defcription
1-
L
alum yod ú
LOF
left us by Scimnus Chius, who calls it a large peninſula, and
fays it was thought equal to the Peloponnefus. No veftige re-
mains of the fifteen cities which we are told this peninſula con-
tained, and fifteen cities would have occupied a great part of
the narrow fuperficies juſt mentioned. The paffage of the anci-
ent geographer is as follows, "To thefe (the Liburni) is uffited
the nation of the Bulini. Then there is the large peninſula of
Illis, thought equal to the Peloponnefus. They fay there are
fifteen cities on it, inhabited by the Illi, who were originally.
Greeks, as their founder was Illus the fon of Hercules. Thefe,
Q4 acol 200
Tanks
!
however, in the courfe of time became barbarous, as it is faid;
tu, avong ol's gi
by mixing themſelves with other nations disad
}
<
1
10 099
1
}
ሓ
soub
dage 183
It appears more probable that fo great a number of cities ftood:
2
on the tract of country which lies between the mouths of the
river Tizio (always fixed as a boundary of Liburhia) nands thoſe
of the Tiluro, which ſpace approaches near to that of the Pe
loponnefus, and includes the fine lands of Knin, Petrovopoglie,
Past Seign,
* Scymn, Chius inter Geograph. min. Hudſon, V. 403, & feq.
[165]:
}
www
* ļ
Seign, and the territory that lies around the buried ruins of
Promona, which was the centre of the Illyrian country, pro-
perly fo called, at the time of Auguftus. The name of Illide
was alfo given to the mountainous peninfula of Sabbioncello,
which ftretches into the fea between the mouths of the river
Narenta, and the island of Curzola. But the authors, who
gave it that name, had not well examined the defcriptions of
#ancient geographers, which are far from agreeing with thofe of
Sabbioncello.
r
A
}
14
こ
​STUIT
يم الا
Whatever were their ancient origin, the inhabitants of Bof-
figlina, of our days, are fo poor, that they are often obliged
by neceffity, to grind the roots of aſphodel, of which they make
a very unwholefome bread, which cannot but contribute to
perpetuate their weakneſs and mifery. The conftant complaints
produced by this hurtful root, are pains of the ftomach, and
hemorrhages. I cannot enough wonder that the poffeffors of
+lands and feudatories of Dalmatia, generally mind fo little the
,fubfiftence of their peasants, who, really, have need of others
to think for them. The plantation of chefnut trees, which
has never been attempted in any part of this province, would cer-
tainly thrive well in the inland mountains, and might foon pro-
duce a healthful food for the poor. Potatoes would alſo prove of
great benefit to them, and they would furely rather feed on
thoſe than on the root of orus, afphodel, or boiled juniper ber-
ries, food-too much ufed in years of fcarcity, by many wretched
· inhabitants of the iſlands, and on the fea coaft, You know well
how uſeful potatoes have been to your native country, whe
they fupply the place of bad bread, which the fqualid peasants,
particularly of Delecarlia uſed to eat in times of ſcarcity.
J
<
.
'2001'
1975wbo
ZOVAL
The
[ 166]
The wool of Boffiglina is, of a much better quality than that
of the neighbouring parts, and this difference is probably the
confequence of the attention of fome former bishop, who
thought it worth his while to migliorate the race of theep, by
importation, from Italy. And there is reaſon to hope for fome
greater benefit to thofe poor vaffals, from the humanity, and
knowledge of the preſent worthy biſhop of Trau, Monfig. An-
tonio Miochevich.
Not far diftant from Boffiglina, ftands the village of Seghetto,
on the ſea coaft; it is furrounded by well cultivated fields,
which, rifing gently towards the mountains, afford, in every
ſeaſon of the year to mariners, a very agreeable profpect of
olive woods. From this village, the road leads to Trau, over
a plain, at a ſmall diſtance from the fhore.
Of the City of TRAU, and the MARMOR FRAGURIENSE of
the Ancients.
Trau, called by the Slavi Trogbir, is diftant from Sibenico
about thirty-four miles by fea; and though not a city conſider-
able for the extent of its walls, or the number of its inhabi
tants, yet it is famous on account of the antiquity of its foun-
dation, the learned men it has produced, and for the fpirit of
concord which reigns among its citizens. The Syracufans, mul-
tiplying in the iſland of Iffa, beyond the proportion of its ſmall
limits, detached a colony, which came and built Trau. The
fituation they chofe is a proof, that the Greeks, wary and pro-
vident at all times, did not degenerate when tranfplanted into
other countries. The city ftands on a ſmall artificial iſland,
joined to the continent, by a wooden bridge, and to the iſland
t
-of
[167]
of Bua, by a frong wall, or bank, intérfected by two tone
bridges, and a draw-bridge, that ferves for the paffage of fmall
veffels.
J
{
>
}
}
الات الاجراء
The breadth of the canal, between the city and the ifland of
Bua, is about thirty-five feet, and is much frequented by finall
barks, which, in coming from Zara to the eaſtern extremity of
the province, are afraid of the open fea, and endeavour to thel
ter themſelves within the iſlands.
The celebrated Giovanni Lucio, born at Trau, of a noble fa
mily, now extinct, published a voluminous hiftory, full of re-
cords and good informations relative to that city. Trau has pro-
duced many learned men, and in the library of one of them, was
found the famous codex of Petronius, with the fragment of Tri-
malcion's fupper. Yet I could difcover no traces of this codex
which Spon had the good fortune to fee in 1675. Coriolano
Cippico, Marino Statileo, Tranquillo, and Paolo Andreis, are
the moſt illuftrious names among the Traurine literati. Of theſe,
and others, I, perhaps, at a more convenient opportunity, may
give fome particular memoirs, availing myfelf of the learned
labours of the worthy bishop now bufy in collecting them;
if he himfelf, who can do it in a fuperior manner, does
not give them to the publick for the honour of his na-
tion......
SNT
1
3
Pliny briefly mentioning Trau, diftinguiſhes. it from the other
Roman fettlements, for the celebrity of its marble; Tragurium
oppidum Romanorum.marmore notum. Vitaliano Donati imagined,
that the marmor Tragurienfe of the ancients, was the fame as
that known in our days, under the name of marble of Iftria, -
t
or
[ 168 ]
or of Rovigno. Perhaps it may be fo, and I will not venture to af-
fert precifely the contrary, against the opinion of fo great a man.
But I may fafely affirm, that, if the Traurine marble had been of
the ſame ſpecies with the hard common ſtone, which moſtly com-
pofes the thore and islands of Iftria, and Dalmatia, the Romans
needed not to go fo far as Trau 'to fetch it: For the hills in the
neigbourhood of Rome, which overlook the Pontine marshes,
as far as Terracina, (without mentioning the Mediterranean hills
of thoſe parts) are moſtly compofed of the very fame kind of mar-
ble, which I believe I may call marble, or hard ſtone of the Apen-
rines, fince the maſs of that whole chain of mountains is al-
moſt totally formed of it. Now it is certain, that with much
lefs expence, they could have brought large maffes from Terra-
cina to Rome, than from Dalmatia. Neither can it be alledged,
that the Romans were not acquainted with the quarries of the
Apennine marble, or knew not how large pieces they might ex-
tract from thence. Among other places, where the labours of
their ftone-cutters appear, that piece of marble mountain cut per-
pendicularly on the bank of the fea, for a hundred and twenty
feet, juſt near Terracina, to remove an incommodious pafs' in
the Appian way, is very obfervable. You doubtleſs examined
it, in your paffage that way to Naples, to vifit Vefuvius. Be-
fides, if the Romans had chofen, through caprice, which can-
not be attributed to fo wife a people, to bring a very common
marble from a diſtant province, they would not, at leaſt, have
brought it from Trau, but rather from the eaſtern parts of Dal-
matia, or from the nearer iflands, which equally abound with
it, and where there alfo were Roman fettlemements. Add to
this, that, among the ruins of Rome, no works of this kind
of marble are feen; and it is evident, that, in the ancient fa-
bricks, they always ufed the hard ftone of Tivoli, called Tra-
wa
vertine
哼
​[ 169 ]
vertine in our days; or the Peperine taken from the hills near
the city itſelf, not from Piperno; and lastly the fandy vulcanic
Tophus, which was brought from the hills of Marino.* In co-
lonnades, and other ornamental parts of ancient buildings, be-
fides granites, porphyry, and other vitreſcent marbles, there are
to be ſeen calcareous breccia of various ftains, and folid marble
of different colours and ſubſtance, brought from different coun-
tries. Among theſe ſtones of the fecond claſs it would be requi-
fite to ſearch for the Tragurienfe, which nobilitated its native foil.
It probably was a variegated breccia, now confounded with the
African marble, as the tops of the hills over all Dalmatia furniſh
various and noble fpecimens. It is alfo very likely, that the
ancients found ſtatuary marble in the neighbourhood of Trau:
but it is impoffible to gueſs where the quarry is, unleſs it hap-
pened to be diſcovered by chance, or by a perfon employed on
purpoſe to examine the whole country with minute atten-
tion? I endeavoured, though unſucceſsfully, to find the fa-
line, marble near Trau; and an attempt was made to im-
pofe, on me, by fhowing me a piece of Carrarefe marble, and
pretending it was taken from the hill of S. Elia, near the
city, where, in a rocky fituation, there are ancient quarries,
not quite vulgar, though very far inferior to the Carrareſe mar-
ble. It were well if all travellers uſed the fame precaution that I
conftantly did, before they afferted a fact on the faith of another,
and
1
Z
می
*It is ftrange that the celebrated Wallerius confounds the lapis Peperinus
with the Travertinus, and, by the deſcription he gives of both, ſhows, that he
knows neither of them well. Pag. 356, 357, of the new edition 1772, of his
Mineralogical ſyſtem; trufting to d'Arcet, he afferts, that the Peperine ftone is
not vulcanic; yet at page 422, forgetting himſelf, he acknowledges the Peperine
or Fibertine to be vulcanic, believing theſe two very different fpecies one and the
fame. How many corrections would the moſt celebrated writers make in their
fystems, if they travelled a little more!
[ 170 ]
and go to the ſpot themſelves, or, at leaft, to threaten to go,
whatever difficulties may lie in the way. At all events, the
ftone of S. Elia deferves fome confideration, if not for its
whiteneſs, at leaſt for the facility there is in working it. It alſo
takes a fine poliſh, and is of a very cloſe grain; and though not
fo well fuited to noble works of architecture, it would anſwer very
well for more ordinary ſculpture, and placed leſs within the reach
of the eye of an examiner. Without all doubt the ancients made
ufe of it.
Few inſcriptions, and no remains of Roman buildings are pre-
ferved at Trau. The lapides are already publiſhed in the collec-
tions, yet fome of thoſe that formerly were there, are now no
more to be found.
Of the Island of Bua.
*
The Iſland of Bua, called Bubus by Pliny, is united to the city
of Trau in ſuch a manner, that I do not think myſelf at liberty
to ſeparate them, though the former contains fuch a variety
of objects, as to deferve an article by itſelf. The numerous.
habitations, on that part of the ſhore of Bua, that looks to-
wards Trau, might very properly bear the name of a burgh, and
hey
would indeed appear very confiderable, if its vicinity to the city
did not obfcure it. It muſt be confeffed, however, that the fi-
tuation of the burgh is, by far, more pleaſant, than that of the
city. In the times of the decay of the empire, it was called Boas,
and ſeveral illuftrious men, that fell under difgrace at Court,
were baniſhed to this iſland; among whom were Florentius,
mafter of the offices of the Emperor Julian, Immentius de Va-
lenti,' and the heretick Jovinian. The emperors of Conftantino-
Y
ple,
}
[ 171 ]
plé, either were not much acquainted with this pretended Siberia,
or were willing to treat the baniſhed with great clemency. It is
certain that the climate of this iſland is exceeding mild; the air
perfectly good; the oil, grapes, and fruit excellent; and the
ſea around it abounds in fiſh, and the port is large, and fecure.
Neither is it ſo ſmall that a man has not room to walk, and ride
about as much as he pleaſes; for it is ten miles in length, and
about twenty-five in circuit; nor can it be faid to be rugged,
though rather high and mountainous.
In the village of Bua, a palm tree fprung up forty-three years
ago; it ftands continually expofed to the changes of the air and
feafons, yet, ten years ago, it begun to bear dates, and fince,
never fails to produce a large quantity yearly. Theſe dates, it is
true, are not of the moſt perfect quality; but they are eatable,
though they have ſomewhat too much ſharpneſs, which proceeds,
I apprehend, from the feverity of the winter, to which the tree is
carelessly abandoned; for however mild it is on the iſland of
Bua, the winters in Africa, and Aſia, where the palm trees
grow in their native foil, are certainly much milder. The dates,
that the palm tree of Bua produces, are without any ſtone, per-
haps through want of fecundation from a male tree near it. In-
ſtead of ſtones, they have a cavity, the fides of which are a little
harder than the pulp. I make no doubt, that, if the owner of
the palm tree had it covered during the ſeverity of the winter, it
would produce ſweeter and better dates.
-00
I
14
R
I found on this ifland various kinds of marble, and
ftone: There is plenty of white marble for building, like
that of Iftria, of a coarſe grain, and that flies off in ſplinters like
a flint ſtone; alſo a laminated marble of the fame nature, in the
ſuper-
Z 2
}
[172]
>
ད
fuperficies of which are often feen impreffions and protuberances
of foffil marine bodies. But the lenticular marble prevails,
though not always of equal hardneſs; there are ſome veins of
foft calcareous ftone, obedient to the chiffel; concreted clay,
and maffes of ftalagmitic fpar, known by our ſculptors under the
name of flowered alabafter. Flints of various colours and figures
are often feen bedded in this marble, as well as fcattered on the
fchiftous earth, that, here and there, divides the veins of ſtone;
and frequently are furrounded by aggregates of petrified marine-
bodies. I did not find, either in this iſland, or in any part of
Dalmatia, where flint ftones are obfervable in marble, a verifica--
tion of the fact afferted by M. de Reaumur, who, treating of
their origin, in the memoirs of the academy, fays, that flint:
ftones, for the moft part, affect a kind of rotundity. On, the.
contrary, in the iſland of Bua, they are, for the moſt partir-
regularly angular, in large pieces, with an even furface, vifibly,
interrupting the continuity of the marble. They feem, as it
were, to have fallen from a higher place by fome accident, and,.
without fuffering fluitation, to have been buried by their own
weight in the marine mud, and afterwards, in the courſe of
years, became hardened into marble under water, then remain-
ing dry through the ſpace of other ages, it underwent all thofe
revolutions whereby continued ftrata are torn aſunder, moun-
tains are divided, and their parts carried away, triturated into
gravel and fand, which parts at laft remaining infulated, by the
introduction of remote feas, the waves of which, daſhing impe-
tuouſly againſt theſe new iſlands, diſcompoſe their baſes, and cor-
rode, by little and little, the long labours of more ancient waters.
Is The
ا}
* This paragraph appearing rather complicated and obfcure, the author was
defired to feparate his ideas, and to give a brief explanation of them, which could
be
[ 173 J
]
The flints of Bua, and generally thoſe of the whole province,
that are found buried in marble hills, bear evident marks of hav-
ing been ſeparated from a continued mafs, in fo much that I
ޑ
20
am
}
}
/!
*
1
be inferted by way of annotation. He very readily complied, and the tranſlation.
of his answer is as follows.
1
The angular figure of the flints enveloped in the ſtrata of the iſland of Bua, and
their lodgement in matter of a very different nature and fubftance, made me think,
"that they must have fallen from mountains higher than the iſland itſelf. But as
they are found buried in calcareous ftrata, compoſed manifeftly of marine frag
ments and mud, it is neceffary to fuppofe, that thofe ftrata were in a ftate of foft-
nefs, and confequently under water, at the time of the fall of the flints from
higher hills. Theſe ftrata, in the courfe of ages, muft have become petrified,
and others have been depofited above them, which have alſo been fucceffively pe-
trified: The fea, forfaking, by little and little, its former fituation, left dry,
who can tell what vaft tracts of land, among which was the country now called
Dalmatia, as well the continent, as the neghbouring iflands; though it is not to
be fuppofed, that it was left in the fame configurarion as it appears at preſent. The
correfpondence of paralellifm, and local inclination, manifeftly difcernible between
the Arata of the islands, and thofe of the adjacent continent, feems to prove,
The waters
that, in ancient times, the whole formed only one continued maís.
}
ૐ
7
*
*
J
of the mountain torrents beginning, by degrees, to excavate divifory hollows,
formed, from the folid continued mafs, many promontories, and hills, divided
in various ways, according to the directions of their courfes, which, as every one
lodi
knows, who travels with philofophical reflection among the mountains, are ſub-
ject to eventual, as well as permanent changes; by thefe torrents the great maffes
being undermined and fubverted, have been reduced to a ſtate of gravel, afterwards
}
} rolled and ſhattered, and at laſt corroded, and reduced to duft.'
፦
>
The 'ftate of mountains, and of valleys watered by rivers, and torrents, does:
not perfift, perhaps, beyond a certain period determined by nature, and hitherto
unknown to us, as it relates to the return of the waters of the fea to their ancient
feats.; who knows by what road? By the ftraits of Gibralter perhaps? The dif
tant fea advanced towards thofe ftratifications, anciently formed by accidental
waters,
[ 174 ]
am tempted to believe they have been torn from large ftrata of
mountains, which now do not exift; notwithſtanding the learn-
ed naturalift, just named, writes, that flint ftones are never found
depofited in ftrata.
र
*
5
}
In fupport of my conjecture, I remember to have obferved on
the ſpot, and find minutely deſcribed in my journals, a ftratum
of green flint ftone, which traverſes horizontally the vulcanic
matter of one of the infulated hills of Montegaldo, between Pa-
dua and Vicenzo, called montelungo. And I have very often
feen black flints difpofed in ftrata in the Euganean hills, and par-
ticularly where they are formed of that ſpecies of white calcare-
ous fciffile and pyritaceous ftone, called by us Scaglia and Al-
berefe, in most other parts of Italy. It is true, that I have alfo
ſeen, on the ſhore of Monfredonia, adventitious flint ftones
rounded by water, in prodigious quantities; and, ten miles up
the country, at the paffage of Candelaro, rounded flints, with
the external coat white, detached and confined in a very brittle
fpecies of marine tophus, formed of foffil madreporei, and frag-
ments of petrified teftacei. But neither the flints of Manfredo-
nia, nor thoſe of the little hill adjacent to the Candelaro, are na-
tives of the places where they actually are, but manifeftly have
been brought from other parts.
{
¿
:
From
waters, and afterwards divided and fhattered by the torrents, occupying all the
depth of the vallies, which became channels, and fea bottoms, and furrounding
the mountains, changed them into iſlands. Now the waves daſhing againſt their
roots, go on undermining and wafting them, first reducing the ruins into rough:
angular ftones, then into round gravel, afterwards into fand, and at laft into
duft, and impalpable earth, and thereby form, in the bottom of the fea, the bafis
and ftructure of future continents, which, in their turn, will probably undergo
the fame revolutions, to an indefinite time.
[ 175 ]
From theſe facts, I think I may be allowed to call in queſtion the
univerfality of Linnæus's doctrine: Silex nafcitur in montium cre-
taceorum rimis, uti quartzum in rimis faxorum. * Yet that learned
naturaliſt ought not to be accuſed of want of exactneſs on this
account; he would have changed his opinion, had he travelled
in our foutherly countries, or had he received information from
our obfervers. If finding the flint ftones frequently diſpoſed in
ftrata, proves that M. de Reaumur was miſtaken, when he faid
they are moſtly adventitious; in like manner, the great quan-
tities of rounded flints frequently found difunited, and which
probably became fo after having been diſengaged from the cement
of breccia marble, prove, that M. Linnæus was greatly miſtaken,.
in preſcribing to them the abſolute law of having their origin in
the clefts of cretaceous. hills. I have many times found the
flint ftones in the act, as it were, of paffing from the calcareous
to the filiceous ftate; and particularly I have often met with them
involved in vulcanic matter. I have even gone ſo far as to diſpoſe
in feries the various degrees of this paffage, and have had the plea--
fure of fhowing it to many of our learned friends..
•
The flints of Bua, fixed in marble, are fometimes furrounded
by an ochreous cruft, not much thicker than half a line; fome--
times they are maculated with ruft, and, when wrapt in clay,
or in fragments of marine bodies unequally petrified, they fome-
times affect a kind of roundness. There are ramous, cylindrical,
globular, and oval flints; but thefe forms are common alfo to
many pieces of ftones not filiceous, which are frequently found
blended with them, and on the outfide are not eaſily diſtinguiſh-
ed from them. A cylindrical flattiſh flint ftone, which I cauſed
>
to
>
*Linn. Syft. Nat. Silex,
[ 176 ]
to be polifhed, is altogether penetrated by veins of calcareous
cryſtallized ſpar, which furround fmall bits of flint, full of mi-
nute marine bodies, of the frumentary kind. This piece is well
calculated to puzzle any one who flattered himſelf that he had a
clear idea of the formation of flints. Henckel, in his Pyritologia,
after having faid much on the fubject, confeffes, that it was un-
intelligible.*
Concerning a Mine of PissASPHALTUM.
The foffil curiofity of Bua, which, in my opinion, merits
greater attention than all the reſt, is the mine of Pilafphaltum.
I venture to call it a mine, however improper the term may ap-
pear, that I may not be obliged to call it a fpring, which would
ſeem ſtill a more ftrange denomination. The island of Bua is
divided into two promontories, between the weft and north, one
of which faces the iſland of Salta, and the other is extended op-
pofite to Trau. Croffing over the top of this laft, which is not
half a mile broad, and defcending in a right line towards the
fea, one is conducted to a hole well known to the inhabitants.
This hole extends not much above twelve feet, and from its bot-
tom, above twenty-five feet perpendicular, arife the marble ftra-
ta which ſuſtain the irregular maffes that ſurround the top of
the mountain.
The
* In the collection of the noble Venetian Giacomo Morofini, there is,
among many other valuable foffil curiofities, a fmall table of Jasper, taken
from the hills of Recoaro, near the mineral fpring, whereof the ſubſtance of the
ftone, and the fhells of the Terebratula and Griphites entangled in it are filiceous;
and the internal of theſe marine bodies is full of a white and very bright calcareous
cryftallization.
The Mines of PISSASFALTO in the land of BUA.
qw 10111mm
177
semaytadi\\m
ހއ
ހހހހ
22
blodon m
mi
་་་་
wwww
ww
.
m).
J.Leonardif sculp.
[177]
*
The place feemed to me fo worthy of obfervation, that I cauſed
a drawing of it to be taken. (P. VIII.) The hole AAA is dug
out of an irregular, ftratum of argillaceous fandy earth, in fome
parts whitish, and in others of a greenish colour; part of it is
half petrified, and full of numifmales, of the largest kind, lenti-
culares, and fragments, with, here and there, a fmall branch
of madreporites, and frequently of thofe other foffil bodies,
called by Gefner Cornua Ammonis candida, minima, &c. The
maſs B´is fallen from the height of the rock, and lies iſolated.
The excavation, made by fome poor man in the fofter matter,
reaches a little below the extremity CC of the ftratum DD.
This is feparated by the line EE from the stratum FF, which is
of hard common marble, with marine bodies, without flints. The
upper part aa is of hard lenticular ſtone, interspersed with flints
full of lenticulares. The mafs H does not diſcover the divifions
of its ſtrata on the outfide, and tranfpires very ſmall drops of Pif-
fafpbaltum, fcarcely difcernable. But the tears III of the fame
matter, which flow from the fiffures and chinks of the whitish
ftratum DD, are very obfervable. They come out moſt abun-
dantly, when the fun falls on the marble rock, in the heat of
the day. This Piffafphaltum is of the most perfect quality,
black and ſhining, like the bitumen Judaicum; very pure, odo-
rous, and coheſive. It comes out almoft liquid, but hardens in
large drops, when the fun fets. On breaking many of theſe
drops on the ſpot, I'found, that almost every one of them had
an inner cavity full of very clear water.
1
The greateſt breadth of the tears, that I faw, was two inches,
and the common breadth is half an inch. The chinks and fif-
fures
A a
* Bitumen fubfriabile piceum. Linn. Syft. Nat.
[ 178 ]
fures of the marble, from whence this bituminous pitch tránf-
udes, are not more than the thickneſs of a thread, and, for the
moſt part, are ſo imperceptible, that, were it not for the pitch it-
felf, whereby they are blackened, they could not by any means be
diſtinguiſhed by the naked eye. To the narrowneſs of theſe
paffages is, no doubt, in part owing the fmall quantity of Piſſa-
Sphaltum that tranſpires.
I have broken many different pieces of that hard calcareous
ftone, and conftantly found within them black fpots of lucid.
pitch, which fometimes communicate with the exterior fiffures,
and ſometimes are like little infulated drops, without a vent
on any fide. It appeared to me on the fpot, that, from hence
there might be ground to ſuſpect, that the pitch pre-exiſted in
the calcareous earth, in the bottom of the fea, before its con-
cretion into ſtone.
系
​(1
The upper part of the hill is marble, with hardly any covering
of earth; no trees grow upon it, nor could they grow, without
much help of art. Who can tell whence it came there, and
how, when the folar rays beat on thofe rocks, the pitch tran-
fpires black and quite perfect? What very remote combuſtion of
woods, or what volcano produced it? And at what prodigious
diſtance of time, and difference of circumftances? And how
does that water enter, which conftantly accompanies it, even
in times of the greateſt drought? Does it come from the high
hills of the continent, paffing under the channel of the fea, which
divides the island of Bua from Trau? and, in that cafe, how
can it afcend through the very compact ftrata of marble, of
which the iſland itſelf is compofed? Can it be imagined, that
the heat of the fun qualified thofe maffes to attract it from the
fea,
'
[ 179 ]
fea, which in fome places infinuates itſelf under them; or from
fome fountain deeply buried? I confefs I am not fatisfied with
any of theſe conjectures; and therefore leave it to you, who are
more converfant in ſuch obſcure matters, to account for this phe-
nomenon. In various parts of Europe, and particularly in Auverg-
ne, near Clermont-Ferrand, there is a hill that yields Pilafphaltum.
Strabo makes mention of a remarkable place in Epyrus, in the
territory of the Apolloniati, where it is gathered from the ground.
But the hill of Clermont is volcanic, and, in the neighbour-
hood of the mine mentioned by the geographer, there was † a
rock that emitted fire, and there were hot baths contiguous. In
like manner, from the hill near Caftro, in the Compagna Roma-
na, the bituminous pitch tranſpires, and is taken notice of by
Boccone; but that place is quite furrounded by matter thrown
up by ancient volcanos. On the iſland of Bua there is no vef-
tige of a volcano, either ancient or modern; neither is there
any for many miles within the continent.
I remember that you once told me of a pitch, like the above-
mentioned, that runs from the rocks in a province of Sweden,
but did not add that the hills from whence it iffues were
you
examined and minutely deſcribed by any of your countrymen.
I find almoſt all the writers, who have treated of mineral pitch,
have been very careleſs in examining the ftrata from which it
tranfudes; and I think it is a faulty negligence.
The Piffafphaltum of Bua is correfpondent to that fofil pro-
duction, which, by Haffelquift, in his travels, is called Mumia
Minerale;
+
A a 2
* Aldrovandi, Mus. Metall. p. 382.
+ Strab. Geograph. Lib. VII,
[ 180 ]
Minerale; and Mumia nativa Perfiana by Kempfer, which the
Egyptians made uſe of to embalm their kings. * It is found
in a cave of mount Caucafus, which is kept fhut, and carefully
guarded by order of the king of Perfia. One of the qualities
affigned by M. Linnæus to the fineſt bitumen is to fmoke when
laid on the fire, as ours does, emitting a fmell of pitch not
difagreeable. I believe it would be very good for wounds, as
the oriental mumia is; and like the pitch of Caftro, which is..
frequently uſed by the Roman chirurgeons, for fractures, con--
tuſions, and in many external applications. †
Of articulated PATELLITES..
Among the many marine animals that are found in the port
of Bua, and along the fea fhore, which is altogether, encum-
bered.
86
* " Mumiahi, or native Perfián Mummy.. It proceeds from a hard rock in
very ſmall quantity. It is a bituminous juice, that tranfudes from the ſtony.
"fuperficies of the hill, refembling, in appearance, coarfe fhoemakers wax, as
"well in its colour, as in its denſity, and ductility. While adherent to the rock
"it is lefs fōlid; but is formed by the warmth of the hands; it is eafily united-
"with oil, but repels water; it is quite void of ſmell, and very like in ſubſtance
"to the Egyptian mummy. When laid on burning coals, it has the ſmell of
" fulphur tempered a little with that of naphta, not diſagreeable-There are
"two kinds of this mummy, the one is valuable for its ſcarcity, and great acti
"vity-The native place of the beft mummy is far from the access of men,
"from habitations, and from ſprings of water, in the province of Daraab. It.
" is found in a narrow cave, not above two fathoms deep, cut like a well, out
"of the maſs, at the foot of the ragged mountain Caucafus." Kempfer. Amæn.
Pers.
>
This defcription agrees perfectly with the Pilafphaltum or foffil mummy of
Bua, differing only in the privation of fmell, which it is difficult to imagine is
totally wanting in the Perſian mummy.
+ Boccone Muſeo di Fifica, &c. p. 161.
1
& H
E
24
1
B
1
F
A
& G
2
}
I
L
!
D
1
+
រ
1
--
C
مه الله
>
K
M
P
*
L
N
P: 181.
Jac. Leonardy sculp.
[181].
1
Bered with maffes fallen from the rocks about it, two fpecies of
oblong articulated Patella, called Babufche by the fiſhermen,
deſerve a particular defcription, as they feem hitherto to have.
been but ill diſtinguiſhed, and worſe drawn, by the writers of
marine natural hiſtory, eſpecially by Rumphius, and Ginanni,
one of whom calls them Limaci marini, and the other Patelle
teftudinate.
The ſhell of this animal is of fo elegant a ſtructure, that it
appeared to me to merit a more accurate drawing. The fig. A.
(Pl. IX.) repreſents it ftretched out, as it naturally is, ad-
hering to the plain fuperficies of ſtones, or of other matter un-
der water. It is compofed of eight pieces, one over another,.
the ſcales of fishes, connected together by ſtrong tendons, by
means of which the animal, when in motion, extends its length
confiderably more than when it lies ftill. To this volun-
tary extenſion is alſo accommodated the coriaceous border, which
examined through a glaſs, on the fide that adheres to the ftones,
is altogether interwoven with papillary nerves, correfponding,
perhaps, to an equal number of protuberances on the external
fuperficies..
•
Theſe papilla fupply a glutinous matter, that ferves to keep
the animal exceedingly faſt on the fubftance to which it adheres.
When forcibly torn away two or three times, the animal re-
mains without the means of faftening itſelf anew, lying as dead
for many hours, till its glutinous veffels become full, and then
it turns again upon its belly. When this animal is in motion
it does not ſhow its head, but has it always covered by the co-
riaceous border, which moves all at once by the mechanifm
of a diſtenſion and prolongation of the above mentioned papil-
lary
1
[ 182 1
lary veffels, which ſerve inftead of legs.
In examining the body
of this articulated animal alive, I did not obferve in the foot
or baſe, (which, like that of the common patella extends through
the whole length of the animal) any diſtinct organ; perhaps the
progreffion of that callous fole depends on the movements of the
coriaceous border. The mouth is like that of the other patella,
but the internal ſtructure is ftill more fimple; there being
nothing to be ſeen but a continued bag from the mouth to the
anus.
The excrements of this animal are fmall cylindrical grains,
and they take this figure in the bag juſt mentioned, which is
often found full of them. Its food is fmall fea worms, and more
frequently, the gelatinous fubftance of various fpecies of Polypi,
which propagate on the ftones in the fea. Although the arti-
culated Patella is never found fo near the fhore, as
to be
left dry at low water, yet it loves the freſh air, and ſhows this
love with fingular precifion. I kept ſeveral of them in cups full
of fea water to have them ready for the microſcope. They re-
mained ſquat under water, as long as they heard any noiſe in the
room; but I no fooner went out, or fat ftill, and filent, for
fome minutes, than they moved directly towards the edges, and,
when they felt themſelves above water, raiſed their coriaceous
border fometimes on one fide, and fometimes on the other, as
if enjoying the pleaſure of the freſh air; and at laſt, contracting
themſelves, they remained half above and half under water, or
crauled upon the upper edge of the cup, where they ſtaid
with one fide quite raiſed up, that the air might penetrate the
better under their wrinkled belly. The interior extremity, re-
preſented by Fig. B, much larger than nature, is very different
from the pofterior Fig. C, though, at firſt fight of the animal,
they
[ 183 ]
they appear of the fame ftructure. The fix vertebræ in the mid-
dle, Fig. D, are all fimilar; and the border that furrounds them,
beheld in the microſcope, exhibits a globular fuperficies, exem-
plified by a ſmall bit of it in Fig. E. On the fhell of this Pa-
tella, various ſpecies of very minute Polypi ufe to make their ha-
bitation, and particularly the Efcharie build their houſes there.
The teftaceous pipes of different marine worms are alſo fre-
quently adherent, and many of them are very elegantly turned
in fpiral wreaths, and fafciated, as reprefented in their true fize,.
Fig. F, G, H, and magnified by the glafs, in Fig. G, H, I..
The colour of the ſhell of this Patella is various, not only in.
the individuals, but alfo in the vertebra. Some of them are
gray, others greenish, yellow, or black; and ſome have the ex-
tremities of one colour, and the vertebra of another, or one
vertebra red, and the reft all pointed. I have a fpecimen where
the two extremities, and the half of the firft vertebra are black,
and the reſt green. M. Linnæus places this fpecies among the
Chitoni in No. VII.
The other fpecies of Patella, reprefented by Fig. K, is not
very common in the waters of Bua, and loves rather flimy bot-
toms, like that of the valley of Slofella. I fhould call it Pa--
tella articolata, cotennofo-teftacea, adorna di fiocchi. This Patella
reſembles the firft fpecies in its interior ftructure, but is very
different without. Its border which approaches to a horny fub-
ftance is hairy, and fpotted with black on gray, terminating, all
around, in little flattiſh pencils fharp at the points. The num-
ber of vertebræ is equal in both ſpecies; but in this laſt, the
ſwardy ſubſtance of the border fills up the exterior interſtices,
forming in the connexions of the vertebra, as many pyramids,.
which meet together at the points. The fame vertebra, Fig. L,
have
[
1
84 ]
have their incurvation more acute, and their teftaceous part is
covered with an epidermis pointed with very ſmall circlets, that
correſpond exactly in Fig. M, N, to that already defcribed. Fig.
E. But the greateft difference, that characterifes this fecond
fpecies, confiſts in its ornament of eighteen tufts or toffels, of
a filver colour, compoſed of filaments reſembling Amianthus.
Theſe ariſe at the juncture of the vertebræ, and ſerve, as it
were, for a baſe to the fwardy pyramids above mentioned. Reck-
oning in this manner, the toffels fhould be only fixteen, as the
fpoil of the articulated patella is compofed only of eight parts;
but they have two which are ſomewhat ſmaller than the others
at the anterior extremity. The fig. O reprefents the fixth part
of one of thoſe toffels magnified, and the columner hexagon P
fhews one of the filaments ſeen through a greater magnifier. I
cannot imagine what ufe the animal makes of this apparatus.
Linnæus defcribes this fhell, and makes it an inhabitant of the
coaſt of Barbary, at No. IV. of the Chitoni. His deſcription,
however, does not give a fufficiently precife idea of the ftructure
of the animal, and is not very exact in the number and difpo-
fition of the toffels, nor about the colour of the hell, its arcu-
ation, &c. *. One very rare fpecies of fafciated chiton, with
only fix articulations, I found on re-examining my collection,
after my return from this tour; and it is repreſented by the fig.
Q. But, among more than a hundred octovalue chitons, collected
with a good deal of pains, I could find only this fingle ſpeci-
men.
An
• Chiton teſta očtovali corpore ad valvas utrinque fafciculato.
Habitat in Barbaria.
Corpus cinereum, læve. Teftæ leviter carinatæ. Fafciculi pilorum totidem,
albidi, juxta teftarum latera corpori infident. Linn. Syft. Nat.
[185]
An infinite number of other curious living creatures` propa-
gate in the little openings of the port of Bua, among which I
make no doubt there are many that would prove new to the
naturaliſts: but much attention is required to obferve them in
their various ftates; much time to difcover their nature, and
different qualities; a long examination of books not very com-
mon, and of farraginous collections; in order to be certain, that
they have not been already defcribed by writers of marine na-
tural hiſtory. I have ſketched the hiſtory of ſeveral, but with-
out intention of publiſhing it, till time and opportunity enable
me to render it more complete.
Of the Sea Coast of TRAU towards SPALATRO, and of the
MILO STONE.
The fea coaft of Trau, to the eastward, is well cultivated, but
not extenſive. It reaches to the foot of the mountains, yet hardly
in any part exceeds a mile and a half. in breadth, including the
plain,, and the cultivable part of the mountain.
At two miles diſtance. from the city, there arifes, from the
roots of mount Carban, a confiderable ftream of water, which
would form no ignoble river, if it had a longer courfe, and did
not, almoſt as ſoon as it iſſues from the fubterraneous caverns,
looſe itſelf in a falt pool, which ſomewhat hurts the air of Trau.
The rocky maffes, from which this large ſpring ariſes, are
of hard lenticular ſtone; the middle part of the mountain is an
argillaceous light-blue earth, in fome places more, and in others
leſs concrete; and the fummit is of common whitiſh marble,
Breccia and Numifmales, indeterminately, as may be inferred from
the gravel that defcends with the eventual ſtreams of rain water,
B b
and
[
186 1
and in the perennial rivulets, by many of which that delicious
coaft is watered. Eight mill ftones are turned in theſe corn
mills, which are moved by horizontal wheels, whofe radii, or
ſpokes, are made in the form of ſpoons, according to the gene
ral cuſtom in Dalmatia. Here, for the first time, I faw milk
ftones compofed of many pieces of Milo ftone, with which I
was not before acquainted: it takes its name from an island in
the Archipelago. I cannot easily believe, that the island took
its name from the uſe of the ftone, as it was called by the an-
cients Mãos, not Mỹλos. This kind of mill ftones is uſed in
almoſt all the corn mills of Dalmatia, in preference to heavy
hard ſtone, becauſe they turn more eafily and quickly, and con-
fequently do much work in little time.
**
The examination of the Milo ftone convinced me, that, from
this apparent advantage, real prejudice muſt be derived. It is
white, full of hollows, and very light in proportion to its bulk.
At first fight of its irregular vacuities, the work of ftillicidious
water ſeems to difcover itſelf; conſequently it ought to be claſſed
among the Pori aquei: but compared with the black porous pu-
mice heavy ſtones of ancient volcanos, it reſembles them much
in its texture. In turning rapidly it wears, and mixes its vitre-
ous angular particles with the flower, which renders the bread
gritty, and of courſe muſt produce very bad effects on the hu-
man
1
* Cristoforo Crifonio, the author of a geographical account of. Iſlands, in MS.
with cuts, preferved in the library of the Counts Draganich Veranzio of Sibe-
nico, afferts, that the iſland of Milo took its name from the mill ftones. The
Manuſcript ſeems to have been wrote about the end of the fifteenth century.
Crifonio fays, in the body of this work, that he had wrote another, expreſsly
concerning the iſland of Crete. Notwithstanding the prejudices of his age, this
author (whoſe works I believe are not publiſhed) has merit.
[ 187 ]
man body. The beſt way to uſe the Milo ftone, would be, in
the conſtruction of arches, and vaults, in imitation of the Pom-
pejans, who built theirs of the black pumices of Vesuvius. It
is lighter than any other fpecies of ſtone, or tophus, and would
not weigh much on the lateral walls; it is very apt to receive
the cement through its many cavities; neither is it hurt by the
air, or falt, which, in time, confume all forts of marble, and
brick, it being compofed of little cryftalline ftones cloſely
united. *
Beyond the mills of Trau, the pleaſant ſhore of the Caftelli
Atretches itſelf to the ancient ruins of the city Salona; and the
amenity of this narrow coaft has been juftly celebrated by all
the writers concerning Illyricum. One of thefe caftles is built.
where the Siclis of the Peutingeriana ftood, and probably the
Sicum. of Pliny, where Claudius fent his veterans. The vines
and olives are fo well cultivated here, that, from this ſhort tra&t
of narrow ground is annually drawn the best part of thirteen
thouſand barrels of excellent oil, and fifty thouſand barrels of
good wine, which, according to the beſt information I have had,
is the produce of theſe two articles, one year with another, in
the territory of Trau. The shore of the caſtles yields alſo a good
proviſion of almonds, three thouſand quintals of figs, and ſome
Bb 2
* Petrofilex opacus variis foraminulis inordinate diſtinctus. Wall.
Pumex faxiformis, cinereus. Linn. 182, 6.
corn
The white very light Milo ftone ſeems not to be individually known by the
naturaliſts beyond the mountains, although the general definitions of Wallerius,
and Linnæus agree with it. Bomare is better acquainted with it than any other,
but he calls it Quartz carie, a ſtrange denomination, rather poetical than mines
ralogical.
A Venetian barrel contains about ſeventeen gallons.
[ 188 ]
corn, which, however, is not the richest produce of thoſe parts.
The internal part of the territory of Trau, which is about a
hundred miles in circuit on the continent, produces very little
wine, and fcarcely any oil. The flocks that feed there, together
with thoſe on the iſlands under the fame jurifdiction, yield about
four hundred thousand pounds of cheeſe, and wool in proporti-
The number of inhabitants in this territory is about twenty
thousand. *
on.
Of noxious Infects in the District of TRAU.
R
In this foft climate, many noxious infects are generated,
which damage the productions of the earth of all forts; and
it rarely happens that the cold in winter is intenfe enough to de-
ſtroy, or even to diminiſh, in general theſe hurtful ſpecies. The
moft pernicious of all is the Punteruolo, called Magnacox by the in-
habitants. Befides thofe that live on the fruits of the earth, fome
are enemies to animals, and efpecially to man. A fpecies of Taran-
tula, very like that of Calabria and Apulia, is known here by the
name of Pauk, which is common to all ſpiders in the Illyric
language. The peaſants, who in the hot ſeaſon are obliged to
work in the fields, are frequently bit by this venomous infect, as
well as by the variegated ſpider known in Corfica by the name of
Malmignatto. The remedy which they make uſe of to calm, by
little, and little, and to remove entirely the pain produced by
the poiſon of the Pauk, is to feat the patient on a ſlack rope, well
faſtened at both ends to the beams, and to fwing him for five or
fix
* I think it juſt and neceffary to declare, that the refpective details relating to
the products and population of the territory of Trau, were communicated to me
in writing by Signor Pietro Nutrizio, a gentleman of that city, together with
many other informations.
[ 189 ]
fix hours: a remedy analogous to the dance of thoſe bit by the
Tarantula in Apulia. The Pauk of Dalmatia are hairy, and
Spotted like thoſe of Apulia, and are equally fierce and bold.
I am well acquainted with the race of theſe miſchievous in-
fects, having had frequent opportunities, in different places, of
ftudying them, and have alſo kept them alive for fome time in
glaffes. You will have feen, in the collection of Giacomo
Morofini at Venice, one that I brought from Manfredonia a
few years ago, and which lived there many months, on flies,
notwithſtanding the difference of the climate.
Accept, my dear Friend, this long letter as a teftimony of my
conftant and tender regard for you; and if you can ſpare an
hour, now and then, from your ftudies, pray write to me from
thoſe diſtant parts, that I may have the lefs reaſon to lament
that my native country is fo far from that which your virtues
and learning have contributed to render fo illuftrious among us.
f
то
A
( 191 )
TO HIS EXCELLENCY
JOHN STRANGE, Esq;
2
HIS BRITANNICK MAJESTY'S MINISTER AT VENICE,
!
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, &c. &c.
TH
Concerning the District of SPALATRO.
HE literary correfpondence, which, for fome years, you
have condefcended to hold with me, would give you a
right to my obfervations in Dalmatia, even if my first steps in
that kingdom had not been made in confequence of your good-
neſs and friendſhip for me. But as I owe entirely to you the
honour and advantage of having accompanied, through a part of
Dalmatia, the learned and amiable Lord Hervey, biſhop of
Londonderry, the continuation of whofe valuable Friendſhip is a
conſtant fpur to my gratitude, I should think myſelf wanting,
in a very material duty, if I did not addrefs at leaſt a part of
my obſervations to you. At the fame time, I muſt confeſs,
that if I did not know you to be a true and profound philofo-
pher, I might be ashamed of the little I have to offer you,
and fhould think it an ill chofen time for fuch an offering,
when you are just returning from a journey in the Alps of
Switzerland, and Auvergne, from whence you will certainly
bring to us many, magnificent objects of meditation. What a
difference between Germany and France, and Dalmatia! Befides,
the naturally grand objects that prefented themſelves, you have,
moreover, probably found a hundred inſtructive collections and
1
valuable
[192]
valuable works, relative to the foffil kingdom; and, after hav-
ing examined them, you have, doubtless, vifited the moft inte
refting spots in person, with the certainty of not going in vain.
I, on the contrary, have been travelling over a vast country,
where ſcience is but little cultivated, and where natural hiſtory
is fcarcely known by name. My expeditions were made at a
venture; I often wandered over, vaft deferts, and
operaft
craggy
mountains, with the hopes of finding fomething to compenfate
my fatigue, but was too often difappointed could obtain.
ufeful or curious
ufeful or curious productions
fefuro
no knowledge of
ત્
*
[',
i
I
productions, but what I
1
diſcovered with my own eyes; and I hardly met a perfon who
was qualified to direct my ſteps rather to one fide than to ano-
ther. Under fuch difadvantages, I fhould not have halt the
courage to addrefs my details to you, had I not known, that
exact obfervations on common and obvious things, which have
been ill examined by the generality of writers, are more in-
tereſting to a true naturaliff, than more wonderful and uncom-
HEY GODAE
mon phenomena of ſmall extent, which uſually contribute not
very much to ſupport general theories. I have learned from you.
many things in the art of obferving, and your example has con-
firmed me in many particular cuftoms of my own, hence, as it
has often happened to you, fo it has ako fometimes occured to
me, that the affertions of reputable writers, on points of phyfical
fact, are frequently falfe and erroneous. Neither the authority
of few, nor the voice of many; can, I hope, impore on either of us
to fuch a degree, as to make us hafty in afferting things Hot exa-
ou are gained to wipe
оставил
Cate
બે
1
#
mined by our own eyes. I therefore prefume, that the obfer-
1961 1 1 1 Woxa zár mot
vations which I have now admit to you, will be
the honour to
TEGIEM ATAU jenis ku all this was 12 30.
ལ
received with confidence, in regard to their exactners, in the
fame manner as thofe you often favour me with are ever received
65
1
A
{
by me. Reciprocal faith is both reaſonable and neceffary, when
疵
​men,
•
}
Irregular STRATAS at the Foot of the MOUNT-MARIAN by the Sea.
'
Fig. A.
Talian
A
ན་་་ ག་
་་་་་་་་་་་་ང
འ་ངར་ཇག་:.
ཡ་
ނ
འད་
བརས ་ མ ་ ད ་ད་
ل المنها الاسم متذييي
་་་་་་
P. 193.
ང་ཨིནãརརང སྟོང་ནཨ་མརྗེསུ་ གཱཝནཏཏན
་་་་་་་་"
མང་བ
ཡ་ང་
ཡ - - -
་ ་ ་ ་ ་ ་ ་ ་ ་ ་
བསགས
4
་ ་་་་་
Jac. Lemardif se.
[ 193 ]
men, without the fpirit of prejudice, apply themſelves to ob-
ferve the ftructure of mountains, the nature of waters, of ani-
mals, or of whatever other production of nature, with the fole
view to inveſtigate truth.
Defcription of the Strata of the Promontory MARIAN---Miſtake
of DONATI.
Between the mouths of the river Hyader, now called Salona,
and of the Xernovniza, a rivulet perhaps not known to the an-
cient geographers, lies a promontory, whoſe point is formed by
the hill Marian, and its baſe by the roots of the Moffor. Coaft-
ing along this tract in a boat, I made the rowers often reſt them-
felves, that I might attentively examine the ftrange modificati-
ons of calcareous matter, difpofed there in a manner quite diffe-
rent from the laws which the maſters of nature uſe to preſcribe,
in elaborate diſcourſes on ſtratifications, without once ſtirring out
of their ſtudy. Among many remarkable places on that coaft
full of variety, which, however, conftantly have a cretaceous
clayey baſe, I had a drawing taken of one, in the firſt creek of the
fame promontory, where, according to Peutinger's table, there
was a temple dedicated to Diana. Pl. X. The ſummit of the
hill AAA, is compofed of common Dalmatian marble, and of
hard lenticular ſtone interfperfed with flints. A large aperture is
ſeen in it, made by the waters of very diftant times, when
theſe materials, that now compoſe the top, were the bowels of
the hill, and the denticulations of the interrupted Strata are ftill
diſcernible. From the exterior parts of theſe ſteep tops,
large maſſes of ſtone are now and then detached, being feparat-
ed, by little and little, from the whole, by the fecret labours of
the rain-water, which fometimes undermines and loofens the
foundation,
very
'
Сс
>
[ 194 J
foundation, and more frequently multiplies its effects, by pro-
x 90 goals eve
greffive filtrations, through concealed crevices and chinks of the
marble, till, at laff, the apparent continuity is divided. Some
times, the maffes that fall down, either in confequence of the
ふ
​2614
{{
Daiad?
It ma
may
alfo
tacit and long corrofion of the waters, or by the too manifeſt
(૩૬) ૨૩-
ſhock of earthquakes, are of enormous bulk, and deceive hafty
obfervers, who are not aware of the revolution.
happen, that large pieces of the hill, tumbled from above, may
remain infulated, after the deftruction of the ftrata from whence
they were ſeparated'; 'and in fuch a cafe, an eye well experienced.
in obfervation is requifite to diſcover at firft fight from whence
they came. In paſt ages men availed themſelves of the va
cuities left in the rock AAA for habitations, ſhutting up the
ingreſs by coarſe walls. Of this kind of habitations are thoſe
marked BB..
}
3
The whole body of the hill, which ferves for a baſe to the
marble fummit juſt defcribed, all along, till it reaches the fea,,
is of a ſubſtance very different from the common Dalmatian and'
Iftrian marble; it reſembles the argillaceous earth of the internal :
part of the hills, which overlook the fea coaſt of the Caßelli of
Trau. The fame fubftance prevails, under the marble trata,.
all the way from Zara to the fortrefs of Duare'; that is, for a
tract of a hundred and fifteen miles, in a right line, expofing
itſelf to `view in various places, towards the fea, and fometimes
for a confiderable fpace, wherever the interior parts of the hills
are diſcovered. Thus, certainly, any man would be very much
deceived, who believed, that " Iftria, Morlacchia, Dalmatia,.
Albania, and fome other bordering countries within land, as
"well as the rocks, iflands, and bottom of the fea, are all-
“formed of one fole maſs of an opaque, almoſt equally hard,
46
}
" whitiſh
I 195 ]
4
"whitiſh marble of the fame grain."* Proceeding forward by
water, it is evident that, even along the Primorie, the bowels
of the mountains appear, in fome places more, and in others
lefs compact; and immenfe ftrata of marble, very different
from the common whitish kind, are feen; befides maffes, and
leſs extenſive tracts of fand ſtone, and of marble' eftimable for
the fineneſs of its texture, or variety of colours.
1
aj.
20 L
T.
Perhaps the denomination of ftrata is not very well adapted
to fuch vague, and irregular divifions, as thofe reprefented in
Pl. X. and therefore I will make uſe of another word, that
pleafes me better, although I find the contradictory expreffion
of perpendicular ftrata, which carries a manifeft implication
along with it, confecrated by the principal oryctological writers.
The term pf veins feems to me the proper appellation in the
prefent cafe.
ご
​話
​!
را
་
}
}
#
Notwithſtanding the bale of the ftrata, or inferior divifions
reprefented in this plate, is conſtantly of argillaceous earth, yet
the modifications fuddenly differ fo much, that they deferve a
particular and minute examination. The inclined vein CC is
of lenticular grey ftone or marble, of a fine grain, divided into
pieces, which take as good a polifh as any other calcareous, mar-
ble. In fact, the ſubſtance of this ftone is perfectly calcareous,
being entirely compoſed of marine fofil bodies. The divifions
DDDD are veins of a grey ferruginous matter, reſembling the
whetſtone, without appearance of marine bodies. If a piece
of theſe veins, the continuity of which is divided into fmall
ſhreds, be taken from its natural pofition, and examined, lying
་
•
J
Cc 2
-
* Saggio di ftoria naturale dell' Adriatico. p. viii.
{
horizon-
کے
[ 196 ]
001
+
} }
horizontally, the courfe, which the waters once took acroſs
that maſs, may be clearly diftinguifhed, as well as the ochreous
particles which they depofed, by little and little, in the inter-
ftices, till filled up. The work of thefe ferruginous waters re-
fembles a good deal the reticulated work of the ancients, only
it has not the fame folidity, as it is eaſily disjoined; yielding to
any moderate force, fometimes to the action of rain water, and
to the fea water dafhing upon it. (FI. X. fig. A!) The space
EE cannot properly be called lapideous; it confifts of a whitish
hard clay, inclining to blue, and without mixture of fand, it
breaks in fmall pieces, of a ſmooth fuperficies, ftreaked with
Fluores Pyriticofi Dendromorphitici. It fhould feem, that all, or
the greateſt part of the water impregnated with ferreous ochreous.
particles, and the ſparry atoms which it muſt have imbibed by
foaking the clay juft mentioned, had taken its courfe, and that
fomewhat rapidly over the irregular way FF, the ſubſtance of
which is become like to that of the vein CC. Several `incruf-
tations of white fpar, longitudinally ftriated, and femi-diapha-
nous, which, penetrating 'downwards, divide the ſmaller veins of
the reticulated work, manifeftly prove the direction of the water,
fometimes faturated with tartarous, and fometimes with ochre-
ous particles. The fea beats furiouſly againſt the roots of mount
Marian, which, being ill calculated for refiftance, are confumed
daily. It produces the fame effect on the irregular maffes of
lenticular ſtone HHH, and makes cavities in them of an oval
or round form. It feemed to me, that the falt, introduced to-
gether with the fea water, under the porous fuperficies of this
kind of ftone, when, in calms, and at low water, it comes to
diſentangle itſelf by the action of the air, and of the fun, raiſes,
by little and little, fmall fcales, and diffolves them into fand.
This lenticular fand is found depofited in the lower part of every
i
{
4
cavity
•
[ 497 ]
4
ધ
۲۴ 6 alam tad
heiðrab yəni day L
bella li
100 231
SON
Gavity of the rock,, and, I did not fail to take a fpecimen of it.
! Jusinosho
It is remarkable, that this kind of petrifaction is met with fo
frequently in the mountains, that great tracts of them may be
Laid to be compoſed of it, and that the original is hitherto not
to be found in the feas. Pliny makes mention of a lenticular
fand, amply extended about the famous pyramids of Memphis,
and adds, that fand of the fame quality is found over the great-
eft part of Africa, Henge it feems certain, that, ſome ſpecies
of ſea inhabitants are lot of than the earth has undergone
ftrange revolutions, whereby fome of its parts are now no more
under the fame climates that they were in more diftant times.
Befides theſe ſmall lenticulares, mount Marian affords no other
petrifaction, only fome rare fpecimens of the white flattiſh ſpi-
ral Helmintholithus, with a prominent beak, called by Gefner
Cornu Ammonis, candidum, minimum, &c
bab ૐ *
1
}
2.
>
尘 ​}
}
人
​127
+
The repeated occafions that I had of paffing the promontory
of Marian by water, enabled me to obferve, with exactneſs, the
nature of its different ftrata, and, in fome meaſure, to account
for the uncommon aſpect,, which they diſcover, in feveral
places. A fhort mile diftant from the fmall creek above de-
fcribed, the rocky fhore is raifed perpendicularly above twenty-
five feet about the furface of the fea, and runs under water in
the fame direction. The fand ftone of a yellowish af colour
compofes thefe ftrata, which are difpofed horizontally, though,
at a diſtance they feem perpendicular, and even, when near,
might deceive one who had not long practice, and the moſt
fcrupulous attention to oryctological obfervations. I have fre-
quently heard of perpendicular ftrata of marine formation, and
$
.
have
* Harena late fufa circum (Pyramides memphiticas) lentis fimilitudine qualis in ma-
jori parte Aphrica, Plin. Hift. Nat. L. 36. c. 12.
[198]
have read the deſcriptions in more than one book, of natural
hiſtory; but hitherto I have never ſeen ſuch ftrata in any place,
which, when well examined, and near the eye, have not made
me diffident of their apparent perpendicularity. I do not think,
that a peice of a mountain overturned ought to ſerve for an ex-
ample, that being purely an accidental cafe; fuch as the ſtoney
hill of Salarola, in the diſtrict of Calaone, among our Paduan
hills. The line of horizontal divifion of thefe ftrata, near the
port of Spalatro, is almoſt imperceptible, if beheld at a diſtance;
and fo much the lefs obfervable it is at firft fight, becaufe, either
through the unevenneſs or disjunction of the inferior ftrata, or
through the filtration of ancient. waters, the fhore is cut from
top to bottom, by large perpendicular clefts, which give it the
appearance of an aggregate of pilafters. The erofion of the fea
water divides the furface of that fand ftone into rhomboidal
curvilinear pores, like thoſe in the veins DDDD, Pl. X.
and its origin is the fame as theirs. The only remarkable dif-
ference, which I obferved, is, that the channels, or pores, in
the fand ftone, which furround the rhomboidal divifions, are
concave, whereas in the veins DDDD they are prominent.
द्दं
I
The different pofition, or rather ſections of the veins, which
otherwiſe are of the fame nature, produces this different phe-
nomenon. Thoſe of Pl. X. receive the force of the waves
in front, and thoſe nearer Spalatro receive it on a large extent of
flank expofed to the fea. The country houfe of Count Capo-
groffo, pleaſantly fituated on the height of the coaft, is the con-
fine of this combination which is interrupted by another creek,
whoſe chord is about two hundred and fifty feet. The curve of
this creek is formed by irregular ftrata of fandy clay, of a blue
and yellowish colour, femi petrified, and divided in ſeveral places
by
}
[ 199 T
+
་
1
By horizontal faſcia of ſtone, which yields to the action of the
air, and fea, ſplitting into pieces of nearly a cubical form. The
further extremity of the fmall creek is of hard ſand ſtone, and
forms a little promontory, behind which there is another creek,
bounded by a point almost entirely marble. This alteration of
clay, fometimes more, fometimes lefs ftoney in the finuofities,
and of hard rock in the promontories, which conftantly goes on
almoft to the mouth of the river Narenta, the marble rocks, that
in many places appear above water, or are feen very little under
the ordinary level of the fea, and the ftoney iſlands ſtretched a-
long the continent of Dalmatia, to the right and left of the
promontory of Diomede, retain fuch ſtrong veftiges of ancient
continuity, that' an obfèrver cannot help fuffering his thoughts
to purfue conjectures, concerning the revolutions which our globe.
has undergone, and on the different appearances which its parts
muſt have made in remote times.
In the waters that bathe this tract of Thore, and receive the
fmall river Salona, there ought to be Pettini, as large and of as
exquifite taſte, as thofe of Metellino, celebrated at the tables of
the ancients. Oribafius makes particular mention of them, and
adds, that, in the fea of Dalmatia, the moft precious oreccchie
marine (Haliotes) a known fpecies of the Lepas, are found; and
he fays their fauce is made of Cyrenian liquor, vinegar, and rue.
Of the PORT, CITY, and LITERARY HISTORY of SPALATRO.
On the ſhore of the port of Spalatro, to the right of the city,
lie the numerous habitations, and well cultivated fields of the
fuburbs. Among theſe, particular mention is due to the pof--
feffion allotted for the experiments and meetings of the fociety
of
[ 200 ]
of agriculture, begun with laudable example, and carried on at
the proper expence of a good number of gentlemen, and citi-
zens. It is to be wiſhed, that fo noble and ufeful an inſtituti-
on may not be unfeaſonably diffolved. The province has but
too much need of affiftance from the ftudy of hufbandry; as
not only the culture of the lands, but alfo the management of
the cattle is exceffively ill understood, both by the Morlacchi,
and the littoral peaſants.
+
At the foot of the walls of Spalatro, from the chinks of cer-
tain maffes of hard ftone full of enchinites, and numifmales, which
fometimes are divided horizontally, there iffues feveral little
ſtreams of fulphureous water, which often exhale, towards the
evening, a very difagreeable fmell. They bring along with
them, in large quantities, very white broken filaments of liver-
of fulphur. The ftones, among which theſe ftreams run into
the ſea, are all, a few feet diftant from the fpring, "coloured
with a filver white, exactly like thofe in Italy, among which
the fulphureous hot ftreams of Sermoneta run, till they lofe
themſelves in the Paludi Pontine. But thofe at Spalatro have ir-
regularities and changes, that deſerve much attention.
Sig. Giulio Bajamonti, a learmed and diligent inveſtigator of
natural wonders, affured me, that fometimes thefe ftreams are
loaded with common falt; another day they are found to be
yellow and fulphureous, then white and calcareous; neither do
theſe variations ſeem to have any relation to the changes of
weather, or of the feaſons. Dr. Urbani, a learned phyſician of
Spalatro, and a Friend whom I eſteem, has uſed theſe waters,
with good fuccefs, in feveral diftémpers, especially chronical.
From both theſe Friends I expect further obfervations, which,
I am
&
[ pound
I am perfuaded, will be worthy of their learning, and reputa»
tion. kasing là vadim
Exca
The port of Spalatro is frequented by foreign veffels, which
come there to load merchandize imported from Boffina, fuch as
hides, worked copper, wool, blankets, bees-wax, orpi-
ment, cotton, filk, corn, &c. de plantexa s
All along the fhore, the ufual variety is obfervable of clay
mixed, ſometimes with fand, and calcareous earth, and divided
in various ways, by lamina of striated white fpar. In the blue
femipetrified earth I have never feen the traces of marine bodies,
though ſome ſpecimens are found in the gray and laminated. In
fome places, and particularly behind the houſes in the fuburbs,
there is a tartarous horizontal-inclined cruft, of little thickneſs,
which runs a few inches under the corn fields, where many
fragments of land teftacei are feen. This cannot poffibly be
confounded with the ſtrata produced by the feas fince it ap-
pears manifeftly to have been formed by the filtration of even-
tual waters, and the depofition of their tophaceous parts. I will
not pretend to mention the great Roman remains for which this
noble city is chiefly known, and celebrated. The lovers of ar-
chitecture, and antiquity, are fufficiently informed thereof, by
the work of Mr. Adams, who has done full juftice to thefe fu-
In ge-
perb veftiges, by his elegant drawings and engravings.
neral, however, the coarſenefs of the work, and the bad tafte
of the age are equal to the magnificence of the buildings. For
all this, I do mean to detract from the merit of the auguft re-
mains of Dioclefian's palace; I count them among the moft re
fpectable monuments of antiquity now extant: yet I would not
have fculptors and architects come to ſtudy at Spalatro, rather
D d
than
#
[ 202 1]
than among the ruins of Rome, or the beautiful veftiges of an
cient grandeur at Pola.
The politeness of the modern inhabitants, does much more-
honour to Spalatro than the magnificent ruins of ancient fabrics
I was, both alone, and in company with our noble Friend, my
Lord Harvey, treated there with the greateſt degree of hoſpita-
lity.
+
The reverend canons did us the favour to let us fee föme
MSS. in their capitular archieves, from whence might be ex-
tracted, without much fatigue, many informations relative to
the hiftory of Illyrium; for there are writings of Lucio and Beni,
of their adverfaries, and many other learned Dalmatians.
Among thefe manufcripts we find a copy of the evangelifts,
of the feventh, perhaps of the fixth century, fufficiently well
preſerved. In the first page is the beginning of the gospel of
St. John in Greek, wrote in Latin characters; but the copieſt
tranſcribed only two pages in this manner, and began again in.
latin, ufing the vulgate for original.
•
This city has produced, în all times, men diſtinguiſhed in
letters and feiences.. Without. mentioning the chronicle writers
of the barbarous ages, who, however preferved many precie
ous records, as Tommaso the archdeacon, Michele of Spalatro,
and others, it boaſts, in the beſt times of reſtored learning,
Marco Marulo, of whom many works are both printed. and in
manufcript. I have actually in my poffeffion a fmall: MS.. of
infcriptions illuſtrated by him; but its authenticity cannot be
entirely depended on; in our days more dexterous inventions
of
[ 203 ]
of that nature could be made. Among the archbishops, who
held that ſee, the first place for learning, is due to Marc Anto-
nio de Dominis, a native of the city of Arbe, whofe memory
would have been much more illuftrious, if he had contented him-
felf with being diftinguiſhed in phyficks and mathematicks,
and had not chofen to write too much, and to fingularize him-
ſelf in religious matters alfo. His treatiſe de raggi vifuali, e
della luce ne 'vetri da offervazione, e dell iride, and his other, pub-
liſhed with the title of Euripo, o fia del fluffo, errifluffo delmare,
deſerve the more attention, as they preceded, by much, the ce-
lebrated philofophers of our age, who have deſervedly gained the
higheſt reputation, by explaining thofe very doctrines, which
the learned prelate had taught. The great Newton did juſtice
to de Dominis, from whoſe ſmall work he drew his first theory
of light. I have ſeen, and one day perhaps may publiſh, ſome
things in manufcript, which ferve greatly to illuftrate his talents.
Monf. Coſmi, who held the archiepifcopal feat many years
after de Dominis, left a remarkable writing, fopra la Bolla Clemen-
tina, which ſhould be among the MSS. of the late fignor
Apoftolo Zeno, in the library of the fathers of the Zattere at
Venice.
Between Spalatro and the river Hyader, at the foot of mount
Marian, there are beautiful and pleaſant fields; but the earth is
ſhallow, and thence fubject to drought; though it ſhould ſeem
no very difficult matter to water it, by means of the neighbour-
ing river. The maffes at the foot of the hill, and in the con
tiguous plain, are of lenticular ftone, quite fimilar in ſubſtance,
to that which forms the little promontory HH in Pl. X.
but it is much harder, and alfo contains lenticular flints.
Dd 2
Ruins
[ 204 ]
Ruins of SALONA,
In going to vifit the miferable remains of Salona, one muft.
paſs the river two miles to the north of Spalatro, on a bad
bridge, very different from that which the Romans (it may be
fuppofed) built there. The Hyader iffues from the foot of the
mountain of Cliffa quite formed, and needs no adventitious ac-
ceffions to run into the fea with fome dignity. Near its fource
are found foffile bones, in the ufual hard fubftance, confifting.
of marble ſplinters, and red iron ftoney earth, of which fame-
ſpecimens are preſerved, in the archiepifcopal palace, by Monf.
Garagnini, a pious and hofpitable prelate, and a father of
the poor.
He has alſo been of fervice to natural, hiftory,
by his kind reception of my Friend Profeffor Martin Brunnich
of Copenhagen, who in teftimony of his gratitude, dedicated to
him a treatise on the fiſhes of the Adriatick.* The city of
Salona, which was fo great, both before and after it was fub-.
jected to the Roman yoke, is now a wretched village, preferv-
ing few diftinguiſhable remains of its ancient fplendor. Doubt
lefs, the two laft ages have deſtroyed all that had eſcaped the
barbarity of the northern nations, that demolished it.. I find
in a valuable MS relation of Dalmatia, written by the fenator
Giambattista Guiftiniani, about the middle of the 16th century,
hint of what exiſted at that time.
1
"The nobility, grandeur, and magnificence of the city of
"Salona, may be imagined, from the vaults and arches of the
"wonderful, theatre, which are feen at this day; from the vaft
"ftones
}
¥
Mart. Th. Brunnichii Ichthiologia Maffilienfis, & fpec. Jehth, Hadr. &c.
Hafmæ & Lipfiæ, 1769. in 8vo.
[ 205 ]
"ftones of the fineſt marble, which lies ſcattered on, and buried
"in the fields; from the beautiful column of three pieces of
"marble, which is ftill ftanding in the place where they fay
"the arfenal was, towards the fea fhore; and from the many
"arches of furprifing beauty, fupported by very high marble
"columns; the height of the arches is a ftone throw, and above
"them there was an aqueduct, which reached from Salona to
"Spalatro-There are to be feen many ruins and veftiges of
"large palaces, and many ancient epitaphs may be read, on fine
"marble ftones; but the earth, which is increafed, has buried
"the moft ancient ftones, and the moſt valuable things."
Τ
11
The inhabitants of the village, that arofe from the ruins of
Salona, too frequently dig up infcriptions, and other works of
ancient artiſts; but their greedinefs is fo proportioned to their.
barbariſm, that they rather chufe to break and ſpoil every thing,.
than to fell it at a reaſonable price. I endeavoured to fave fome
fine lapides newly diſcovered, from the brutal hands of a peaſant,
who had already fpoiled many others, of which we faw the
fragments, to make door and window cafes for his cottage;
his avidity prevented my defigns at that time, and. I was
obliged to content myſelf with copying them..
>
but
}
A curious citizen of Spalatro has collected a great number of
Salonitan infcriptions not publiſhed, but I could not obtain
them from him. He intended them for the illuftrator of thoſe,
which, for the moſt part, are found deformed in Vol. II.
of the Illirico facro; and I dare not complain that fo cele--
I have no
brated a man was preferred to me, becauſe
thoughts of engaging myself to explain them diffufely, as fuch
1
} ./
an undertaking would carry me too far from my principal
!
{
**j; objects.
[ 206 ]
•
object. I would have, perhaps, neglected ancient remains al-
together, if the refpectable example of M, de Tournefort had
not encouraged me occafionally to take notice of them.
Having obferved how eafily and frequently they are miſtaken,
who write, and fet themſelves up for illuftrators of antiquity,
without having made long and regular reſearches, I have taken
the refolution to put all my gleanings into the hands of my
learned Friend Count Abbe' Girolamo Silveſtri of Rovigo, and
ſhall continue to do fo with whatever may fall into my hands
in future tours, relative to antiquity. The danger of deftruc-
tion daily threatens every thing of this nature ſcattered over
Dalmatia; and even for this lamentable reaſon, I thought it
my duty to fay thus much. You, far from condemning me,
will certainly approve of my diligence, which, at leaſt, will
mix a little not diſagreeable variety with the tireſome dryneſs
of foffil matters.
If the mournful ruins of Salona were not fufficient of them-
felves, to determine the precife fituation, where it lay, on the.
banks of the ſea, this would be very clearly indicated by Lucan,
1
Qua maris Adriaci longas ferit unda Salonas,
Et tepidum in molles zephyros excurrit Hyader.
The text of Cæfar, where he places Salona in edito colle, muft,
be corrupted, for it cannot be imagined that he was ignorant of
the true fituation of thoſe places.
This fmall river, that does not run above three miles, ob-
ftructed, here and there, by tophaceous banks, nouriſhes in its
moſſy grots, an exquiſite ſpecies of trout. Hence fome author,
who
[ 207 ]
J
D
1
who must have been a much better judge of good eating, than
of the actions of great men, took occafion to write, that Dio-
clefian (acting worſe than Efau) renounced the pleaſure of com-
manding almoſt all the then known earth, to eat quietly his
bellyfull of theſe fiſhes, in his magnificent retirement at Spa-
latro. I know not if Dioclefian was as great a lover of fiſh, as
he was of herbs; but believe, that Spalatro, without any mo-
tive of gluttony, muſt then have been a delicious habitation;.
and, to ſtrengthen this belief, I imagine the neighbouring moun-
tain to have been covered with ancient woods, which, in our
times, by its horrid bareneſs, reverberates an almoſt unſupport-
able heat in the fummer days. It is certain, that a turn for
philoſophy, and perhaps, a trait of wife policy, was the mo
tive of Dioclefian's retirement. He lived ten years in tranquil-
lity at Spalatro, and perhaps would have enjoyed a longer life,
if the letters of Conftantinus and Licinius had not come to di-
ſturb him. Notwithstanding all the ill that the chriſtian authors
have written (one copying the other) of this Dalmatine Empè--
ror, perhaps with greater piety than impartiality and truth, it
- :
muſt be confeffed, that he was a man of extraordinary merit.
He mounted the throne without any effufion of civil blood,
led to it by his own virtues; and after a reign of twenty years,
gave perhaps the greateſt example of philofophical moderation,
that ever was heard of in the world. I reckon it a fingular
honour to Dioclefian, his having been praiſed by Julian, among
the Cæfars, as he certainly would not have fpared him, if he
could have faid any thing to his prejudice.
Of the Mountain of CLISSA and of MossoR.-
To the right of the Hyader rifes the mountain, which common--
ly bears the name of Cliffa, from. the fort that ſtands on one of
its
[ 208 ]
?
t
1
its fides. The fubftance of this mountain, fometimes grey,
ſometimes bluiſh, of unequal hardneſs, as well as the nature of
its ftrata, is the fame as thofe already deſcribed in this letter.
The maffes fallen from the top, which are met with on the
road, are fometimes of common Dalmatian marble, fometimes
of very hard gravelly breccia, and fometimes of hard lenticular
ſtone.
ነ
~
It is very curious to obſerve ſome ſtrata, which compoſe a
prominent fide of mount Moffor, flanking the road of Cliffa, to
the left of the deep valley, through which the Hyader runs.
They prefent, to the eye of an obſerver at a diſtance, many di-
vifions, that deſcribe ſegments of a circle, placed one above the
other, with the extremities turned downwards, diameterically
oppoſite to what is commonly obferved in the difpofition of
curve ftrata. Whoever might pretend to judge of this at a dif-
tance, would act imprudently, and run the riſque of giving
fome ridiculous explanation; as is too often the cafe with even
the greatest naturalifts, when they undertake to unfold fome
ftrange phenomenon, upon a fuperficial inſpection, or according
to the accounts of others: like that good man who wrote the na-
tural hiſtory of the Swifs Alps, without ever travelling to obferve
them. The erection of the extremities of the ftrata of Moffor
is a deception of the eye, by the distance and inferiority of the
fituation, on which the obferver ftands.
The first time I paf-
fed, I believed this to be one of thofe unaccountable phenomena,
whereof the ancient fea left impreffions within the bowels of the
mountains, and which time and torrents fometimes difcover, to
torment the brain of naturaliſts. But the diſtant aſpect had
deceived me. The apparent extremities of the femicircles are
not ſo in fact, but only points of the circumference of theſe dif-
{
1
covered
[ 209 ]
covered ftrata, which are inſulated by the eventual waters, and
from the top to the bottom of the accidental hill, or promi-
nence, are laid horizontally one above the other. The infulated
rock, on which Cliſſa ſtands, is, for the moſt part, of marble
breccia, of fubmarine origin, fince little marine infulated bodies
are found among the ſmall ftones. The ſmall ftones themſelves,
that form the breccia, contain lenticulares of much anterior date
to the ftoney fubftance in which they now are. The baſe of the
rock is of whetſtone, like that on the ſea coaſt of Spalatro already
deſcribed, between which, and the marble, there runs an irre-
gular vein of calcareous hard ftone full of calcinated Teftacei,
and frequently pieces of bituminous petrified earth.
In the breccia are feen fome little black ftones, produc-
tions of diftant and ancient volcanos. On re-examining the
prominence of this hill, from a fituation of equal height, I faw
that it had been divided in part from the reſt of the mountain,
and that its ſtrata correfpond, both in direction and ſubſtance, to
thoſe of the mountain. The arcuated ftrata continue to deceive
the eye, till the obſerver comes within reach of feeing them ho-
rizontally; then the illufion vanishes.
ì
The fort of Cliffa is undoubtedly the Avongov of Dion Caffius,
and the Mandetrium of Pliny. The firſt of theſe ancient writers
deſcribing the fiege and attack under the command of Tiberius,
circumftantiates its fituation minutely, faying, "that there was
no plain of any kind near it, that the hill was inacceffible, ſteep,
"and interfected by cliffs." He adds, that " Tiberius, find-
ing the reinforcements that repeatedly came up from the
camp at Salona to fuftain the Romans, unfuccefsful, detached
"a body of troops, through craggy paths, to gain the heights
E e
which
"6
[ 210 f
"which commanded Anderion, whereby the Illyrians, being ex-
pofed on both fides, the fort was obliged to capitulate."* Cliffa
is now in fact at no great distance above Salona; built on an
inacceffible rock, furrounded by cliffs, and hollows, and com-
manded by the top of the mountain. Pliny ſpeaks of Mande-
trium as a place famous for deeds of arms. Cliffa has been too
much ſo, even in the times near to us, and would be fo› again,
if the fcourge of war was felt in Dalmatia, on account of its
fituation on a narrow and important paſs.
*
Spon, in his voyages, tranfcribes an infcription feen by him
at Trau, in which mention is made of repairs done to the road,
between Salona and Andetrium.
Of the Country inhabited by the MORLACCHI, between CLISSA
L
and SEIGN. The valley of LUZZANE
LOVO VRILO.
and concerning GIPA-
Paffing beyond Cliffa, ten or twelve miles within the pro-
vince, we traverſed a country fometimes high, fometimes low,,
but almoſt always equally rough, and thinly inhabited.
The
crags
of Clapaviza, the defcent of Cozigne Berdo, the ftoney
valley Dracaniza, uncultivable, though plain, and the moun-
tain of Cirfiza, are tracts of horrid deſert capable of cooling the
moſt fervid travelling naturalift. All the the defcent is of mar-
ble, dangerous for horfes, as they can hardly walk on it; and
the whole valley is difaftrous,, on account of the many fharp rocks,.
which form the pavement. A few tufts of ill grown trees, and
many thorns, from which it takes the name of Dracaniza,† pro-
duce
* Dion Cafs. Lib. 55.
† Draca a thorn, and particularly the Pakiurass
ศ
[ 211 ]
"
1
duce a worſe effect, than its native rugged barrennefs would do,
becauſe they interrupt, and render ftill more incommodious the
unpleafing road.
At the foot of the mountain of Crifiza lies the beautiful val-
ley of Dixmo, which affords good pafture, and the foil is not
unfertile; it has about ten miles of circuit, altogether furround-
ed by hills. It is not cultivated, though it might eafily be fo;
but the Morlacchi are very far from underſtanding good agricul-
ture, and indeed they know little of any kind of it. From
Dizmo, by Xenski Klanaz, then over mount Mojanka, and at
laft by Cucuza Klanaz, we defcended into the large fine plain of
Seign, which is watered by the Tilurus, now called Cettina; a
tract of country of which I fhall have occafion to ſpeak again,
when I give an account of the head, courfe, and mouth of this
river, from which, in former times, the diftrict of Cettina took
its name.
It is no rare thing, in the interior part of the country inhabis
ted by the Morlacchi, to find hills, lakes, and territories, which
preſerve, in their name, the memory of fome fignal action. Of
this number is the road called Xenſki Klanax,* and the moun→
tain Mojanka. There is a fong, traditionally preferved among
the Morlacchi of thoſe parts, that relates the doleful cafe of one,
whoſe miſtreſs was carried away by force, and was called Anka.
He fought her over all the mountains in the night time, calling
aloud Moja Anka, i. e. my Anka, whence the mountain took
the name it ſtill bears; and feveral places, in that neighbour
hood, have names relative to different circumftances of the
ftory.
E e 2
After
* Xenfki Klanaz, that is, the narrow pafs of the woman.
1
[ 212 ]
After a day's journey through that frightful ill inhabited
country, we arrived at Seign, a fort fituated near the river Cet--
tina, which I ſhall mention more particularly in another place.
A traveller unwilling to paſs the fame way, on returning from
Seign, to Spalatro, may take the road of Radoffieb, which lies
fomewhat more towards the north than Mojanka; but before
he proceeds directly on that road; a naturalift will certainly,
turn a little out of his way, in order to fee the valley of Luz
zane, and the den or torrent called Gipalovo Vrilo. In thefe
places, feparated from the fea by a vaſt chain of mountains, at
leaſt ſixteen miles broad, are found the moſt diftinct proofs of
the ancient feat of fea waters; and, perhaps, no lefs indifpu-
table proofs of the habitations of men, upon the: ftrata, which
now form the internal ſtrata of the mountains. The valley of
Luzzane is flanked. by low hills called. Glavize in Illyrian..
Theſe lie at the roots of a high ſtoney mountain, and are formed of
barren marine earth, fometimes of a whitish, and fometimes of
a blueish colour, difpofed in very regular ftrata, full of foffil
turbinated ſhells, and, in fome places, of white, fhining, fee
mi-calcined, exotic Bivalves. On the fuperficies of a ſtone, not
above four inches fquare, I counted above forty of the fame,
ſpecies and fize.
All the ftrata, however, have not an equal
abundance, nor are they all of the fame confiftance and colour;
In ſome of them are found foffil veftiges of the Alga marina;
and ſome little bits of the coal of burnt plants. But the moſt
remarkable difference, that is obferved in this marine earth, is
the very great inequality of weight. For of two pieces of equal
bulk, taken from two different ftrata, and full of marine bodies,
that which contains the bits or ftraws of coal, weighs only
half the other, and reſembles the cineritious pumices of Vol-
1
{
་
*
{
-་
1
canos,
[ 213 ]
canos, though is does not ſhew the fame exterior poroſity.
·
Theſe little coaly or burnt ftraws are not at all impregnated
with fulphur; are eaſily pulverifed, and tinge with black, like
any other burnt ftraw. I remember to have obferved fimilar'
bits of coal, in a bolar green ferruginous earth, found in the
vulcanic matter of Monte Berico near Vuenza. The ftrata of
the hills of Luzzane are of a middling hardneſs, and fo well di-
vided by horizontal inclined lines, that large flat plates like
thoſe of Ardefia, or Lavagna, might be taken from thence.
The little channels, cut by the rain water, on the back of theſe
hills, in deſcending into the valley, difcover the internal tex--
ture, and the diſpoſition and colour of the ftrata.-
·
Half a mile further on, towards the narrow part of the val-
ley, one meets the bed of the torrent called Gipalovo Vrilo, or the
ftream of the family of Gipal. This carries along with it a very
great variety of matter. Among its gravel there are Pyrites, and
Etites, in which the marine bodies remain white, refifting the
diffolved iron. There are great quantities of black flints, and of
all other colours; pieces of very fine Agate full of marine bo-
dies; large pieces of whetstone, breccia, and various kinds oft,
fimple calcareous marble, brought down from the mountains..
Eefides all theſe productions of mineral and marine mountains,"
there are vaſt numbers of compact heavy pieces of Lava, fome-·
times black, fometimes grey, foffil coal, and bituminous fciffile).
earth, black as the Gagates, and full of very white marine bo
dies. Various horizontal inclined veins of this earth
*
4
-
appear'i
along the bed of the torrent, having, both above and under
them, other ftrata of marine earth, not very compact, but com-:
monly full of Teftacei. Further on, the bed, which becomes..
narrower,
[ 214 ]
narrower, is, in feveral places, totally excavated in the bitumi-
nous earth; but generally the veins are alternate. As, above
the little hills of the valley of Luzzane, a ſtoney hill ariſes, ſo, a-
bove the ftrata divided by Gipalovo Vrile, a larger hill is raiſed,
compofed of the various matter that the torrent brings down,
when very full. Upon the utmoſt border of the ampelite earth,
which ceaſes to diſcover itſelf below a fall of the torrent, where
various ferruginous maffes have tumbled from above, are found
the roots and trunk of a tree three feet in circumference reduced
to a foffil coal. When I was there, it ſtood in its natural pofition,
and, from the foot of the trunk, I could obſerve the roots ſpread,
perfectly entire even to the finalleft parts. Some of thoſe which
I brought away with me, reſemble the filiqua of Carrubbig in
figure; but are entirely of the nature of coal, and of a very fhin-
ing black colour.
?
The particularity that diftinguiſhes this coal trunk, from the
great quantity of other foffil wood found in the mountains, is, its,
having been cut, little more than a foot above the roots, by a hat-
chet, or fome other fimilar inftument, before the marine ftrata
covered it. The repeated examination of its fituation, and of
its actual ſtate, leaves no room to doubt of this ancient truth.
The veins of marine earth feparated by the torrent, run regu-
larly about five feet higher than the fituation occupied by the
roots and foot of this trunk. There are rents in the root of it,
through which the bitumen has infinuated itſelf. It was alſo
almoſt buried under ground, when I, with my own hands,
taking away the earth, fet it in open view, induced by the fufpi-
cion, which the natural fituation of the roots raiſed in me. I leave
to thofe, who are more knowing than myfelf, to decide by how
ancient a hatchet this tree has been cut, and in what times thoſe
lands have been covered by the waters of a fea now far from us, and
which
[215]
which has left behind it ſuch a prodigious quantity of exotic
Teftacei.
1
The foffil čoal, and the ampelitic earth of Gipalovo Vrilo,
though at ſeveral miles diſtance from the fea, might be made
uſeful articles, were it only for the diſtillation of ſpirits, in which
the woods on the ſea coaſt are fatally wafted.
}
+
Concerning the Mountain SUTINA, and the adjacent placés.
Entering again into the road that leads to Spalatro, we turn-
ed a little to the north, that we might not return by the fame way.
by which we came. About Radoffich are feen the ruins of moun-
tains overwhelmed, and large maffes of marble, infulated, out
of their natural fituation. They ſtand on ftrata of marine earth;
but it is not eafy to guefs,. whether they fell, when the waters.
covered theſe places, or were overturned by an earthquake, after
their receffion. There is a great variety of marine bodies a-
mong thoſe ruins; and, along the roots of the mountain of
Sutina, in the deep bed of the torrent, which goes on wearing
the foot of the mountain, the minute breccia maculated with
black, is common; and the fpotted, the brown, the white and
black, and the peach-coloured, are not rare. This mountain,
whofe top is of breccia compofed of fluitated gravel, has its
middle compoſed of a calcareous and micaceous ftate, of different
hardneſs and degrees, of a reddish colour, more fuitable to mi--
neral than calcareous mountains.. In one ftratum of this ftate,
which ſplits into very thin lamina, uncommonly brittle, I ſaw the
impreffions of Tellina. Having paffed this mountain, we came to
Hamuch, or upper Mutch, a fmall hamlet built on the porous >>
breccia, which is not fit for noble works. I faw there, in heaps,
many plates of marble, or flatey calcareous stone, brought from I
know
1
[216]
!
know not what part of the mountains. In fome of theſe are con-
fined and petrified the fhells of Vermiculi, and branches of Ma-
drepora; others are a compofition of Tellinites and Anomitæ,
deeply ftriated, like thofe which are frequently found petrified
in the Veroneſe hills.* A piece of this flatey marble, which I
brought away, being polished, became variegated, fcattered with
white ſtars on a dark ground, which are nothing elſe but the
horizontal ſections of ſmall columner angular Afteria. † On
one fide of this marble in its natural ſtate the foffil ſhells appear
prone, and on the other only their concave impreffions are feen.
**Below the hamlet, there is a plain of a moderate extent, which
I croffed over to go to read an infcription dug up a few months
before.
१
་
}
5.4 X
J
The moſt remarkable thing which I ſaw there, were fome large
maffes of breccia, ftained with violet and other beautiful colours.
Magnificent columns and monuments might be made of this
ſtone, if the place were not fo far from the fea, and the inter-
mediate roads were not fo impracticable. An ancient breccia,
much refembling this, is feen at Rome in fome of the nobleſt
works; and it is known among the artifts by the name of breccia
corallata." Who knows, if in paſt ages, a country fo much th-
habited by Roman colonies, and frequented by their armies, had
not commodious roads, of which we have now loft not only the
veftiges, but even the memory?
?
$
}
+
"a
+
* Our
* Helmintholithus anomi deperdita novemftriata. Linn. Syft. Nat. iii. p. 163.
+ Helminth. Ifidis Afteria. Linn.
Afteria columna angulis obtufis. Scheuchz.
>
[ 217 ]
{
Our guides conducted us over the two vallies Ghiſdovaz and
Prugovo, to put us in the road of Cliffa. The figure of theſe
vallies is circular, and they are quite furrounded by mountains.
It should therefore feem, that they ought to have a deep and
rich foil; but it is far otherwife. They are plain, yet the earth
is fo fhallow and fo full of fharp rocks, that they look like the
fummits of ancient and bare hills funk for want of foundation.
Vallies of this kind are not uncommon in cavernous regions,
under which are running rivers; and the waters collected together
from a vaft fuperficies lofe themfelves. The large valley of Pru-
govo becomes often a deep lake, in time of winter, and dries up
by degrees towards the end of fpring. The river of Salona, which
iffues full formed, from the bottom of the mountain, and that of
the mills of Trau, probably owe their original and increaſe to
the waters, that fall underground, from this, and other fimilar
vallies.
Of the Ruins of EPETLUM, and of the Fofils found in that
Neighbourhood.
Six or ſeven miles to the eastward of Spalatro, and three miles
from Salona, lie the ruins of the ancient Epetium, a colony of
the Iffei. The place is now called Stabrez. Near the road thither
by land from Salona, are feveral arches of Dioclefian's aqueduct,
vulgarly called ponte fecco, and above it is an infulated mafs cal-
led Kamen, i..e. the ſtone, by way of excellence, where in former
times, a ſmall fort has ftood, as may be deduced from the veftiges
of the walls that ſtill remain.
The fituation of Epetium was very beautiful. The city ſtood
on the fea fide, but on a plain much above the level of the wa-
Ff
ter.
[ 218
218 1
ter: The pleafant little river of Xernovniza,
edilo inemevag att ni have
to amel bfe200 SV vam cin
SVEN
dzińw mica sno
q
*of which I have
not hitherto been able to find the name among ancient geographers,
falls into the harbour, Capable from its extent, of receiving many
141011ng
ſmall veffels but in our days, the water is fhallow, perhaps by
3d icons, Vest 201
the mud and ſtones brought by the river abandoned to itself.
The adjacent fields, though ill cultivated, are delicious. The
Turks had made falt pits there; but after the country paffed from...
and we
ས {
the Ottoman yoke to the Venetian government aban
1
Laveled to Sion
amandedoled
f
}
ོ
doned? Yet that tract of plain, which was occupied by the falt
pits, is neither damp nor unwholefome; and it invites fome in
duſtrious and intelligent perfon, to make a trial how valuable
the perennial water of the adjoining river, the fweetness of the a
climate, and the open warmth of the thore, might be made.
raw amag with [idive adifa ng 13 25 14rd of bitso ed
On the banks of the ſmall harbour of Stobraz the vestiges of
the ancient walls of Epetium are ſtill diftinguiſhable; and appears}
to have been built of folid materials, but without that nice con
nection, that is admired in the Roman fabricks. A fubterrane
ous paffage, of which the mouth remains in its primitive state,
extending far under the buried ruins of the city, feems to have
ferved in ancient times, for an outlet to the waters. Near the
parochial church, which is a good quarter of a mile diftant from
the thore, appear the foundations of a tower, which flanked Epe-
tium on that fide; and the church itſelf is built on thoſe old
foundationisto : 2.69 #l
f
SUT.
1 139
f
+
Ir
Vand Tusds
940 b
I flattered myſelf to find here fome valuable Greek infcriptions,
and with that view, i'ſearched every corner of the village, but all
in vaing Ifaw the fragments of fome Latin infcriptions of no
value; and was obliged to content myſelf with copying the only
$
* Xernovniza takes its name from Xarn, which in Illyric fignifies a mill.
one
ふさい
​[219]
one entire, which I found in the pavement of the church. Very
probably the inhabitants may have concealed fome others, as they
are habitually ſuſpicious of ftrangers, and particularly of Italians ;
and indeed to tell the truth, they cannot be much blamed.
yel ngecrot
Fád b
4 20 22785 200
Rasel 3 1952
363
L
010
{
A
The river Xernovniza has but a fhort courfe
a fhort courfe: It takes its
rife from fmall beginnings, between Squercich and Dubrova,
near the foot of mount Moffor
the foot of mount Moffor has a fall not far from its
vs 1 M 70ce hauen!
ſource, then turns feveral mills; and after a courfe of five miles,
falls vil faqquote
*T
א
SOUVIL
A. NO MUTT
AX ZE
into the fea. Its waters nouriſh variety of fiſh of ex-
quifite tafte, and thofe of the fea alfo love to refort about its
mouth
Flence the inhabitants of Stobrez go, wading bare-´ì
footed in the harbour to fiſh, though indeed it ought rather to
be called to hunt, as they purfue,, ftrike, and kill their game with
iron pointed ſpears. I refolved to go to the ſmall village of
Xernovniza, both to examine the courſe of the river, and to
fee fome Inſcriptions, which I was told at Stobrez are in the
church. The journey was little more than three miles. The
तेले
firſt hill in my way ftopt me to obferve the immenſe quantity
of looſe Nummales, which cover the fide of it. I collected a good
any, perfectly entire, and of a remarkable fize. Some of them
ardd 290.3a ku
wust genDA
}
(1701
of 1920 (s
ſize,
1
are compreffed, and alfo with the fpiral outwards; and among
mort inert shaz sta 197760 000
them may be collected fragments of Oftracites, and roftrated Hel-
daudy vo
mintboltbi, like the white cornu ammonis
like the white cornu ammonis, and of the fame fpe-
blo stods no alt d 2
cies that is common enough in the argillaceous earth of Brendola
and Grancona in the Vicentine hills.
Lisplati dosadskiepler smol $15, 4
The children of the country render good fpecimens both of
and gesit
Nummales and Helmintholithi (carce, by gathering them for play.
They are perfectly acquainted with the proper time of collecting,.
and never fail to repair to the places where they are found after
the
9:19
こ
​F
F f 2
-39
[220]
1
A
}
T
*
the great rains. Juft fo, in the Paduan hills, between the heights
of Venda and Rua, the girls ufe to collect the Entrochi, or
lumner Afteriæ, found there in abundance after a thaw of Snow,
in order to throw them unobferved, into the fire, and to divert
themſelves at the furpriſe, and ſometimes the fright, which their
fudden crackling like fea falt caufes in thofe who are prefent." I
went twice up to thoſe heights, on purpoſe to make a collection,
but foon perceived by the fcarcity, that many hands had been
there before me.
Deve-H y&M
7
1.
A
1 1
*
+
~ YW
The hill divided by the waters of the Xernovniza is of fand
ſtone, of a grey or bluish colour, without apparent marks of
petrifactions. The left fide of the river is cragon com t
Yo
horrid and
impracticable: the other is cultivated, or at leaft planted with
vines and fig-trees. The infect enemy of this laſt kind of fruit
was, at that time, ſo prodigiouſly propagated, that on one fig,
not bigger than a common nut, I counted above feventy new
galls;
; and on one leaf alone a hundred and fifty-feven: the bran-
ches were quite covered with them. Arriving at the hamlet of
Xernovniza, and clambering up to the Curate's houfe, in the con-
dition of a man who had walked in hafte, under a burning fun,
and at mid-day, over a ſteep and ſtoney road; I defired my honeſt
guide to make my request known to him, not daring to do it
myſelf, for fear of offending his ear, by the bad pronunciation
of a few Illyric words. But the inhofpitable and ſuſpicious
prieſt refuſed abſolutely to open the church, nor would he yield
to all the intreaties that were made him with the greateſt humi-
lity imaginable. All his anfwer was nechiu, "I will not," to
whatever the guide and I could fay to him. Such brutal be-
haviour made me lofe all patience; I was no longer aſhamed to
ſpeak
[ 1 2 3 5 2 1
な
​fpeak Illyric, and on going away I could not help breaking out
in all the abufive terms I knew, againſt that iron hearted man.
The good curate let me go on, and peaceably ſhut himſelf up
in his cottage. This was the firſt and greateſt, hay almoſt the
only inftance of inhoſpitality that I met with in Dalmatia; but
was very fenfible of it, and could not help mentioning it par-
ticularly.
MSV.
rand bea
* DUTCH
May Heaven preferve you, Sir, from fach brutish, and ſa-
vage treatment, among the mountains which you vifit, and from
which, whatever tour you make, you will certainly bring many
obfervations and important difcoveries, which the republick of
naturalifts will always wish for with reafon! For my part, `I
wait impatiently for your return to Italy, being attached to you
not only by the chain of our mutual ftudies, but alſo by the ve-
neration I have for your fuperior talents and merit; for which I
love and eſteem you above all the naturalifts. I know, not one
of whom can equal you in acuteness of obfervation, exactneſs
in examining, reſolution in determining and perfeverance in pro-
fecuting your phyſical reſearches.
-gard ar
ΤΟ
TO
SIGNIOR MARSILI,
PROFESSOR OF BOTANY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF
PADUA, FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, &c.
Concerning the River CETTINA, the TILURUS of the Ancients.
SUSPEN
USPEND a while your continual and indefatigable botanical
labours, my learned and dear Friend, and travel with me
along the unfrequented banks of a river now but little known,
though in former times the refidence of many brave and eminent
Romans. I invite you to croſs the rocky mountains, which divide
from the fea, the beautiful interior parts of Dalmatia, at preſent
inhabited by the Morlacchi; but your journey will be much leſs
fatiguing than mine. You are a lover of every kind of ſcience,
and therefore I may flatter myſelf, that you will not read with-:
out ſome pleaſure, the various details that occurred to me to
the right and left of the Tilurus, from its fources to its
mouth; and that you will not find fault with the few digref-
fions, which the anology of matter may occafion. I have
endeavoured not to be tedious, and I hope not unentertaining;
but if my endeavours ſhould prove unſucceſsful, you can always
when you pleaſe, lay afide this letter; for I am not ſo unrea-
fonable as to expect, or wish that a man of your univerfal ac-
knowledged merit ſhould loſe his time on diſagreeable or uſeleſs
fub..
[ 224 J
]
fubjects. Your hours, I know are precious to the republick of
letters, and therefore I do not pretend to engrofs them; a few
detatched broken minutes are fufficient for me.
Of the Sources of the CETTINA.
Contiguous to the hamlet of Jarebiza, and three miles diftant.
from Verlika, at the foot of a hill. of marble, are the four prin--
cipal ſources of the Tilurus, called Cettina by the preſent inha-
bitants; which fources, after a fhort courſe, unite together at a:
place named Vrilo Cettine. The territory through which the ri-
ver runs, had in paſt times the title of county of Zapania, and
depended on its particular petty prince.. But there never was
any city there called Cettina, and much leſs is there at preſent,
though named by feveral geographers, and particularly by M.
Bufching, together with the addition of a lake that exifts not...
Porphyrogenitus called the Zapanca of Cettina Zentzena. The
firſt time that I faw the fources of this river, in company with
the Lord Biſhop of Derry, two of them appeared to me to me-
rit particular attention. The hills that lie between the mountains
of Kozjak and Dinara, and furround the fine plains of Cettina,
rifing in height as they extend farther back, are united at laſt to
mount Herfovaz. The exterior appearance in feveral places, de-
noting the irregularity of the ftrata whereof thefe hills are com-
pofed, gives ground to fuspect that they may have been ruins
of ancient mountains; yet I cannot take upon me to affert this
pofitively, though I obferved them with attention, but a more
particular examination would be neceffary on the heights.
The
1
[ 225 ]
3
+
+
}
4
The fource which we firſt vifited is a hundred paces from the
hamlet; and the bafe of the hill forms a femicircle about it.
The clear ſmall lake that lies there, almoſt hid by the rocks,
and ſhade of the trees, is about thirty feet diameter. The in-
habitants pretend that its bottom cannot be fathomed; we threw
into it many white ftones of various fizes, and quickly loft fight
of them. The water of this lake has fcarcely any, vifible mo-
tion; yet, following the declivity, it iffues with rapidity, and
forms a confiderable ftream below. Aprodigious, number of
trouts, «ſome of which weigh twenty, five pounds, iffue with,
the water, from the interior parts of the mountain, and,
many other ſpecies of common river fish are alfo feen, but
the aperture, that ferves them for a paffage, is not acceffible,
nor, len, looking, horizontally, can it be feen from without,
In order to diſcover it, one must stand on one of the steep
extremities of the femicircle, and look down. About fix feet:
below the fuperficies of the lake, a ridge of marble appears
through the water, in form of a large, irregular arch, which,
juts a good way outward. Under this, the water has its vent,
and its vertical motion, which on the fuperficies appears,
little or nothing, is diſcovered by the inclination that ſtones,
thrown into it take in finking. The other fource, not far difr
tant from the hamlet, on the oppofite, fide, is of fomewhat lar-
ger extent, and alfo in the form of a lake, girt round, like the
other, by the marble ftrata of the mountain. Its banks are not
fo freth and fhady as thofe of the firft; they fay it is exceedingly,
deep.in the middle. A little river is likewife formed from this,
lake after a very ſhort, courfe, and which would not be incon-
fiderable by itſelf, but becomes large when joined with the
ather, and two more ſtreams, befides feveral leffer rivulets which
run towards the plain from the fame mountain.
+
}
G g
A
T
1
1
[226]
A SUBTERRANEOUS VOYAGE attempted.
The great quantity of water, flowing from the lakes, and
other lefs confiderable fources,. concurs to form the river Cettina;.
its iffuing from a mountain much ſmaller than thoſe that uſe to
give origin to noble rivers, and recollecting the marble breccia.
of which the tops of the Illyrian mountains are compofed, made
us ftrongly fufpect, that the waters which we beheld were not
the true ſources of the Cettina, but only branches of ſome ſub-
terraneous river, whofe ancient bed, perhaps, in very remote
ages, were the high continued plains, which, after a long feries.
of violent changes, became the tops of mountains. My Lord
Biſhop, having lately viſited the Belluneſe territory, and parti-
cularly thoſe places where the fall of mountains frequently in-.
terrupted the courfe of rivers, remarked the hanging veftiges of fi
milar ruins on the fides of Kozjak, Guat, and Dinare, which plain-
ly fhew, that the interruption of their ftrata has proceeded from
fome vaſt fudden finking, or perhaps from a fucceffion of them..
This reaſonable and well grounded conjecture, made us deter-
mine to penetrate, as far as we could, into the caverns which,
wind through the internal parts of the mountain between the
two lakes juft defcribed. Some of theſe caverns,, notwithſtand-
ing their ruggedneſs and obfcurity, were, in other times, fre-
quented by a Banditti, perhaps as fierce as wild beaſts; and:
there are ftill to be feen the veftiges of a wall coarfely built to.
render the entrance more narrow and fecure. It required fava-
ges indeed, hardened to a great degree, to clamber into theſe.
horrid receffes; yet, notwithſtanding the difficulty, I forced
myſelf into them more than once, that I might examine, at.
my leiſure, though not at my eaſe, the ſtructure of theſe marble
mountains. Many of theſe narrow chafms and holes run be-
tween
123
I
[227]
tween the pieces of fubverted ftrata, where one muſt afcend
creeping on hands and feet, without being able to raiſe the head
for a long ſpace. In one of theſe holes, near the outer aperture,
the ſurface of the inferior, as well as the fuperior maſs, which
ferves for a vault to the narrow paffage, is all ſcattered with hard
and ſharp pointed Stalactites; and farther up, the marble is be-
come ſo ſmooth and flippery, by the frequent treading of ancient
thieves, or ſavages, that I could not go on without the greateſt
fatigue. Having paffed theſe ſtraits, I got into places lefs im-
practicable, though always equally frightful, and rendered ftill
more dreary and uncomfortable where they are moft fpacious,
through the blackneſs, and dirtineſs of the ſmoaky walls. The
barbarians, who inhabited thofe dungeons in paft ages, muſt
have been often expoſed to break their necks, or to be ſuffo-
cated by the heat and denfe fmoak, raiſed by lighted pieces of
cleft fir which are uſed as candles in theſe infernal manſions.
A journey into the cavities of mountains, and examining,
from ſtone to ſtone, in thoſe fubterraneous mazes will cer-
tainly contribute to furnish jufter ideas concerning the in-
terior structure of that part of our globe nearest to the
furface. There nature may be difcovered, as it were, at
work, and abundance of materials may be collected for the eſta-
bliſhment of good theories, or, at leaſt, for deſtroying thoſe that
are ill grounded. In this refpect, I have hitherto not been very
fortunate, as all the natural caverns of calcareous mountains
which I have vifited, refemble one another. Yet I hope, one
day or other, to find fomething beyond this uſual uniformity,
by vifiting mineral mountains that have not yet been opened by
men. What inſtructive leffons of natural chemiſtry may be
found written in their dark caves! After examining, fome-
G g 2
times,
[ 228 ]
times, the ſyſtems, and claffical diftributions of the moſt cele-
brated naturaliſts, and comparing the foffils with the deſcripti-
ons relative to their production, I could not help thinking, that
nature has been but ill interpreted by her chief priests and
panegyrifts; and hence I may venture to affirm, that the ſub-
terranean part of natural hiſtory has ftill need of much improve-
ment, and of many obfervations well aſcertained by unpreju-
diced men, in order to form any tolerable idea of it.
Among the peregrinations under ground, which may give
fome pleaſure to the lovers of phyfical geography, that which
we made in the largest cavern of the fountains of the Cettina,
is entitled to a place, as it furniſhed fomething more than our
other fubterraneous travels in the bowels of thefe calcareous
mountains. Near the mouth we could walk a little way erect,
but were foon obliged to bend ourſelves, and then lie down and
creep along a narrow, rough, and dirty path, well calculated to
blunt the edge of ordinary curiofity. The common ftillicidious.
works which abound here, are as various and multiplied as can
be defired in narrow places, where there is not room for
magnificence, as in the grotto's of Antiparos, and the Bauman-
nian cavern in Germany. The moft curious, though not the moſt
frequent lufus nature to be feen, are certain vafes, as it were
faſhioned like large imbricated fhells; one of which, that I par-
ticularly obferved, has the divifions above half a foot broad, and
very nicely formed. Thefe do not reft upon the ground, but
proceed from the centre of the vafe bending outwards. The
vaſe is not above four inches thick, but capable of containing a
great deal of water, it being near three feet high. No art could
form a piece more beautiful for decorating a fountain, or grotto
in a garden; art, I fay, that endeavoured to imitate nature, and
not
[ 209 ]
not to adorn it. The fame waters that, falling from a height of
little more than two feet, formed the imbricated vaſe ſo regularly,
make alſo models of fortifications well underftood, hollow in
the middle, and furrounded with little baſtions, and walls not
above three or four inches high. I would not have you think
that our imagination made us find in theſe works a perfection
which they have not; nature has really executed them in fo
maſterly a manner, that they deſerve particular attention. She
has here been ſtill more exact than in forming the Pietra Ma-
tematica at Martignone not far from Bologna. In creeping over
the cavern, we met with ſome little pools, in which great quan-
tities of faline lamina lay in heaps. They are very white, and
of a calcareous ſpatous nature; and after having been extended
on the furface of the water like a ftoney veil during a long fuc-
ceffion of time, have fucceffively funk to the bottom, to leave
room for the formation of other fimilar lamina. This curiofity
I have alſo ſeen ſeveral times in the vaft ftone quarries of Co-
ſtoggia in the Vicentine. Many ſmall tubes of equal candour
and brightneſs ariſe here and there immediately under the drops
moft impregnated with ftalactitic parts like alabafter, and which
actually appear, at first fight, fprung out of the earth like afpa-
ragus. Their fhiney brightnefs bears a greater reſemblance to
fnow than to refined fugar. The appearance of vegetation that
deceived the celebrated Tournefort, and, more recently, the
learned Paſſeri, author of the foffil hiftory of the territory of
Pefaro, did not impofe upon us. The French naturalift was
not fo well ſkilled in lithology as he was in botany; and hence
he
* V. Arduini, Lettere Orittografiche, in vol. VI. of the Nuova raccolta d'Opufcoli,
publiſhed periodically in Venice by Simone Occhi. Theſe letters, and feveral other
pieces of various Italian authors, treating of foffil natural hiſtory, deſerve to be re-
printed, and rendered more univerſally known, and uſeful.
*
T 230 ]
he ought not fo much to be blamed for believing that to be real
which was only apparent; and our Italian philofopher is ftill
more excufable, who, confiding in obſervers much leſs acute
than himſelf, planted his deductions on facts not well demon-
ftrated. Yet he is very far from the prejudices of the ſchools,
who, following too literally the good old Pliny, admitted the
faculty of vegetation even in the ftones; for of all the fpecies
of marble this ftillatitious calcareous alabafter appeared to him
the only one to which vegetation could be granted, denying it
clearly and exprefsly to the others. The little hole which the
columns uſually have in the centre, and their rifing from the
floor of the caverns; the affertion made to him that no water
dropped from the vaults of the grottos; with ſome other inaccu-
racies of obſervation, induced him to offer, though with the
greateſt modefty, whatever his happy genius could fuggeft to
explain the geneſis of thoſe inſulated bodies. I have read with
much pleaſure the ingenious conjectures of our eminent Peſarefe
philofopher, before-mentioned, whom I love and refpect; but
obfervations, contrary to thoſe that were communicated to
him, did not permit me to be of his opinion. The longitudi-
nal hole appears equally in the tubes that riſe from the floor,
and in the ſtalactitic tria that hang from the vaults of the ca-
verns, and whofe origin is manifeftly feen. If the water did
not filtrate from the vaults when this naturalift's correfpondents
were making their obfervations, it muſt have been in dry weather,
as they would certainly have perceived the dropping in rainy
days. Thus, at Venice, under the arch of the Rialto bridge,
and from the front of the Jefuits church, the ftriæ are ſuf-
pended, and the water runs along and augments them after the
my
rains.
>
The
A
}
[231]
The frequent manifeſt diſruptions, and partial ruins of ancient
Arata of foft ftone, or calcareous marble, which appear in theſe
caves, confirmed us, at every ſtep, in our opinion that a ſub-
terranean river had corroded their baſes. In fact, having advanced
forward ſome time, we came to a natural bridge, formed by an
arch between two ſtrata, under which the eventual waters of the
neighbouring mountains have their outlet, and have excavated
an ample ſubterraneous canal between the ftrata. There my
Lord Biſhop choſe to reſt himſelf while we proceeded forward;
and in the mean time, with a prefence of mind which philofo-
phers often have not, he fent back his Morlacco guide for a
further provifion of fir laths to light us the reſt of our way. The
above-mentioned bridge is only twelve feet wide, and about as
much in length. It looks like a model of the bridge of Veja,
firſt deſcribed by Sig. Betti, and fince by me;* and ferves to
demonſtrate, that my illuſtrious friend, Brigadier Lorgna, well.
known among the mathematicians, explained, better than any
other, the manner whereby fuch natural works of architecture
are formed by means of corroding waters. Perhaps this too
would pafs for one of Nature's caprices among thoſe who believed
that ſhe had made all that tract in the Veroneſe hills di getto, that
is, of caſt matter. For the defence of one fundamental ex-
travagance naturally produces others, which however do not de-
ſerve the trouble of being refuted. On our return to the fub-
terraneous bridge,, we found our friend fitting by it all alone.
No Biſhop, furely, of the ancient church ever penetrated into
catacombs more gloomy, or of more difficult acceſs than thoſe
which this worthy Prelate was now exploring; and the place
where he waited for us, feemed to be a real image of Dante's
inferno;
Giornale d'Italia, T. 11. N. 41. pag. 401. See Defcrizione del ponte di Veja
di Zaccaria Betti. Verona, in 4to. fig.
[ 232 ]
inferno; a fituation well ſuited for one difpofed to reflect on
Young's Night Thoughts, and to render them ſtill more diſmal.
*
Not contented with the plain difcovery of the channel through
which the rain waters ran in paffing under the ruftic marole
bridge, we wanted fomething more; looking on what we had
already feen as only a greater degree of probability that a fub-
terraneous river actually exifted near us, as we had fufpected.
It appeared impoffible to defcend lower down, the fides of the
bridge were fo high and ſteep. Yet this difficulty did not dif-
courage us; we made a ſhift to let ourſelves down from a ſtone
that juts out from the rock, and were foon in a condition to
profecute our refearches. The marble on which we trode is
pre-
cifely of the fame nature as that which forms the bafe of Li-
burnia, and the adjacent iſlands, whereof I had a ſpecimen en-
graved in my obfervations on the iſland of Cherfo and Ofero. *
The tubular Ofteolites, changed into calcareous fpar, refift the
erofion of the waters there below, juft as they do on the fea
ſhore, much better than the ftoney cement that binds them; and
hence they are full of protuberances. Defcending a few ſteps
further upon the inclined ſtratum, we found ſeveral ſmall lakes
and pits. It is manifeft that theſe have been hollowed in the
ftratum by the fall of water from above, which, in floods, on
the melting of fnow, has no doubt, preffed with violence on all
parts of thoſe caverns for an outlet. Theſe pits made us per-
ceive that we ſtood upon a vault, and that the ſpace below was
occupied by water; the marble brinks of the pits did not ſeen
to be above two feet thick, which is alſo the uſual thickneſs of
that kind of ſubſtance along the fhore of the Quarnaro. We
threw
* Saggio d'offervazioni fu l'Ifola di Cherfo ed Ofero. Ven. 1771. Fig. 1. pag. 106,
1
[ 233 ]
threw feveral pieces of white ftones into the clear water of the
lakes, and could obſerve them falling for near a minute, but loft
fight of them before they touched the bottom. In order to af-
I
certain the courſe of theſe waters, which appear as it were ſtag-
nant, having neceffarily loft the force of their current by their
paffage through fuch rough uneven places, we threw in fome
pieces of paper, and they moved ſlowly according to the direc-
tion of the water in the pits which are fhut up all round.
was in hopes of ſeeing fome fish in theſe, hitherto, unexplored
waters, but could not diſcover any; either becauſe there was
none, or becauſe the lights and noife had frightened them away.
On my return above ground, well fatisfied with what I had
feen, I could not help cafting an eye on the high mountains
which flank the courſe of the Cettina, and whofe tops, in
former ages, were undoubtedly traverfed by a river, proba-
bly the fame which now running partly under and partly above
ground, has found a new road to the fea, leaving abandoned for
ever the vaſt beds of fluitated ftones through which it wandered
in times very remote from ours, and opened its temporary chan-
nels.
The inhabitants of the lands through which the river Cettina
runs, who were formerly ſubject to the Ottoman government,
and confequently had more frequent opportunities of examining
the rifing of its waters, obferved that it had a conftant analogy
to the rifing of the lake of Bufco-Blato, twenty long miles diftant
from the fources of Farebiza, on the other fide of the moun-
tains. Hence they concluded that there was a fubterraneous
communication between Bufco-Blato and the river; neither the
diſtance, nor the height of the intermediate mountains, hinder-
ed them from forming fo reaſonable a conjecture. That lake a-
Hh
bounds
[ 234 ]
bounds fo much in fish, that the hogs catch them, and by feeding
on them become moft enormouſly fat. The Morlacchi who inha-
bit the ſkirts of the lake, and are Ottoman ſubjects, avail them-
felves of the quantity and fatneſs of the fiſh to make oil. They ex-
tract it by the ſimple method of frying the fish in frying pans,
and ſtraining the melted fat, lay it up in jars for domeſtick uſes.
I could not learn if the waters of Buſco-Blato have a conſtant pe-
riod like thoſe of the famous lake of Czirkniz; but it is highly
probable that they have fome period known to the inhabitants
of the neighbourhood.
3
A MORLACco Dinner in a Church Yard.
Our dinner was prepared at a little diſtance from the caverns,
and the ſpot chofen for that purpoſe was an ancient burying
place, near the ruins of a church dedicated to the Afcenfion.
The many trees that have been planted among the graves form an
agreeable ſhade; and the large ftones under which the bones of
the valiant ancients are laid, deſerve notice, as well for their
number as their bulk. I call them valiant ancients, becaufe-
the arms frequently found in that place fhew that they were
warriors. Under theſe trees there are above two hundred very
heavy maffes, each of a fingle piece of marble, which might
very properly be called tombs of giants. Some of thofe ftones.
are nine feet long, about five broad, and near five feet thick.
They are at ſuch a diſtance from the mountain, that it is not
poffible to imagine how the old inhabitants of that country
could bring them from thence, without the help of well con-
trived machines. For the moſt part thoſe enormous maffes are
of a parallelopepid figure, and very well cut; but fome are of a
7
more
[ 235 ]
more barbarous irregular form. None of them have any infcrip-
tion, but almoſt all have arms in baff-relief.
Our entertainment was given by the Morlacco Vukovich with
all the profufion of victuals that could be defired. That honeft
Morlack cannot ſpeak a word of Italian; but underſtands hofpi-
tality perfectly well. One of the grave ftones ferved us for a
table; but we had more curious tables fet before us to fuftain
two roafted lambs Theſe were flat unleavened cakes, deftined
to ſerve at the fame time for dishes and for bread. We eat of
ſome of the various meats fet before us with great appetite, but
could not tafte fome others that were eſteemed the delicacies and
refinements of Morlacco cookery. We thought the cakes ex-
cellent, and they were foon eat up, when the learned Bishop
turning to me, faid very opportunely: Heus, etiam menfas con-
fumpfimus! The Morlacco table refembles that of the Tartars;
as the two nations are, in many things, like each other; there-
fore would not pleaſe the nice taſte of more poliſhed Europeans.
The table cloth is generally a woollen carpet; table napkins
are rarely uſed, and when there are any, they are alfo woollen.
They carve with a long heavy knife which every Morlack carries
at his girdle. Little ufe is made of forks, though the n.after
of the houſe fometimes has one. They have wooden fpoons in
abundance, and can furniſh one for each of the company, if
not very numerous. Thoſe who obferve the true national cuf-
tom, never uſe glaffes, or cups; inſtead of which, there is one
large wooden cup called Buckkara, in which they mix wine and
water, and it goes round, from mouth to mouth, till it is emp-
ty. The mutual kiffes of the gueſts are often infufed in this li-
quor, but they do it no harm. Inftead of China and earthen
ware, theſe good favages had a few wooden diſhes which were
Hh 2
filled
[236]
filled with milk of various kinds and compofitions. In thefe
diſhes every one of the company dipt his ſpoon according to
his own pleaſure; as we, a Morlack officer, our hoft Lukovich,.
and our guides, all did at the fame time with brotherly equality.
The worthy biſhop was as well contented as any other of his
brethren could have been at table with all his clergy about
him..
The Morlacco manner of roaſting ſheep and lambs, is very
fimple. Having drawn and flayed the animal, they fpit it
whole upon a large branch of a tree cut for that purpofe; when
a great fire is lighted before it, and firft the one fide, then the
other is roaſted. In their ragouts, garlick makes always the
principal ſeaſoning; and they have deteftable tarts of milk and.
flour, in which they alſo put garlick. Notwithſtanding all this,
I foon accuſtomed myſelf fo well to the Morlack way of eating,
that I frequently dined heartily on four milk, garlick, ſcallions
and barley bread, which is their ordinary diet. In a plain near
the burying place, we faw the ruins of ancient habitations quite:
deftroyed, which however appear to have belonged to fome Ro--
man fettlement..
Of the plain of PASCOPOGLIE, FONTE SALSA, the iſland of
Оток, and the Ruins of the COLONIA ÆQUENSIS.
The Cettina, augmented by the concourſe of various branches,
deſcending from the fources of Jarebiza, traverſes with dignity
the plain of Pafcopoglie,. which, in rainy feaſons, is fubject to
inundations, becauſe the river has no banks, and its courfe
is frequently interrupted by mills, il contrived artificial:
cuts, iſlands and banks of mud, which embarraſs the
channel thus left entirely to eventualities.
•
For this, and.
other
[237]
other reaſons unhappily combining, the plain of Pafcopoglie,
and almoſt all the fine rich vallies of Morlacchia, lie quite
uncultivated. We did not follow the courſe of the Cet-
tina, but leaving it for fometime, we faw it again at the paſs of
Han, where, not far from the river, there is a ſpring of falt
water, called by the inhabitants Zlone-ftine, that is, falt ftones.
We did not vifit this fpring, though we paffed near it, not hav-
ing been told of it in time, and purſued our journey to Otok, a
fmall iſland in the middle of the river, famous among the inha-
bitants of that neighbourhood for the flaughter of ſeveral Mor-
lack families, which had taken refuge there in the laft war,
and for fometime defended themfelves bravely. The various
branches of the Cettina are of confiderable depth thereabouts,
but take up too large a ſpace of fenny ground, which might be
prevented by uniting them together, and raifing banks from the
fources downwards, fo that the waters, reftrained within nar-
rower bounds, might paſs between the mountains at Trigl in a
larger body, and with greater force. From thence they would
fall from rock to rock as far as the ſmall fort of Duare, where
they take a ſmoother courfe, till they fall into the fea below
Almiffa.
In ancient times this river was certainly not left to itſelf, and
fo neglected; for at a little diftance from the paſs of Han the
Colonia-Equenfis flourished, though now no veftige of it remains.
diſcoverable at first fight. The city of Equam was built on a
low hill of moderate extent, which commands the fine plains
of Cettina, and the profpect of that large river, which runs not
far from it. No remains of ancient Roman buildings are now
to be ſeen above ground; but the inhabitants of Seign dig in
ſearch of ſquared ſtones, and fometimes find beautiful pieces of
Gornices, and other ornaments worked in the beft tafte. We
faw
[ 238 ]
faw fome remains of an infcription, in cubital letters, on a
large cubick mafs of ftone, but time had corroded it fo much,
that few of the letters were legible. The Morlacchi, not
long ago, dug out of theſe ruins, now covered with grafs and
brushwood, a noble monument, on which the name of that
ruined city is infcribed; but, through barbarous ignorance,
they broke it into three pieces, in order to transport it with leſs
fatigue to Seign; and one of theſe pieces, which is now want-
ing, juſt happens to be that which contained the name of the
reſpectable man in honour of whom the monument was erected.
On the fide of the hill of Æquum there was in former times
an amphitheatre, not very large, as appears by its ruins, dif-
poſed in à circular form, and now covered with earth and graſs.
The canals are ftill viſible that ferved to conduct the water in-
to its area, and they have been cut out of the live rock, not
built. It appears that the Æquenfes levelled the place appoint-
ed for the edifice before they dug the canals, for they are cut
in the ſtone that forms the little hill, then covered with marble
ſlabs, and run winding under the ruins: the largeſt is about two
feet fquare, and the ſmalleſt little more than one. The ftone
on which the Æquenfes worked is exceedingly tender, and al-
moſt farinaceous. I took a ſpecimen of it near the mouth of
the ſmaller aqueduct, and find it has ſome analogy to the fciffile
ſtone of Bolca of the fofteft kind. No fragments or remains of
marine animals are diſcoverable in it, though it contains fome
ſmall leaves of fea-weed, or at leaſt of ſomething that very
much reſembles it. This kind of ſtone does not refift cold, and
I believe it is apt to fhiver by the heat of the fun after rain;
hence the infcription which we found expofed to the open air is
loft. Father Coronelli calls this place Nojae, noting that it
was
[ 239 ]
was taken from the Turks by the Venetian General Valiero in
1685. Lucio, in his memoirs of Trau, calls it Chglivich.
Luccari, a Ragufean annalift, not remembring that the dip-
thong ſometimes makes a great difference in the fignification of
words, and not having confulted the ancient geographers, pre-
tended that the Colonia-Æquenfis was about fix miles diſtant from
the ancient Epidaurus in a place called Cogniz, but he had not ob-
ſerved the ancient itineraries, by which he might have diſcover-
ed his miſtake. Cogniz might have been ſubſtituted for Equili-
um, if in thoſe parts there had been anciently a place of that
name derived from horfes. Kogn in Sclavonic fignifies Equus a
horſe, but not any thing that has a relation to justice, as æquum
fignifies. On the road from Æquum to Seign there is a view of
a confiderable number of little hills fcattered in very pleaſant
perſpective, and covered with large trees, near which the Mor--
lacchi generally build their cottages. The baſe of theſe protu-
berances is fometimes of an afh coloured clay, containing foffil
fhells.
Of the VULCANIC hills, and lakes of KRIN; and of the GYPSUM
of Seign.
We ftopped at Krin, where we were courteofly treated with
honey combs by the poor inhabitant of a cottage more delight-
fully fituated than many grand palaces. He did not defend
himſelf, in any manner, from the revenge of the bees, in ex-
tracting the honey; yet none of them ftung him, although he
felt about for what he wanted in the hive with great delibera-
tion. The honey was delicious beyond expreffion,, and while
we were eating it under the fhade of the trees, the poor man's
eldeſt daughter came and preſented each of us with a noſegay of
Sweet.
វ
[ 240 ]
ſweet herbs. It is impoffible not to feel and relish fuch acts of
fimple ruftick hofpitality. The fummit of the hill of Krin is of
the fame kind of ſtone as that of Æquum, and the foot appears
to be vulcanic, hence a kind of porous pumice ftone, and a
heavy iron earth hardened by fire, are found between the hill
and the contiguous lakes of Krin. Theſe lakes afford no great
variety of fish, but among them the inhabitants pretend there is
a hairy ſpecies, and fome deſcribed it very ſeriouſly, adding,
that they keep at the bottom, and therefore it was very difficult
to catch any without poifoning the waters. I am not difpofed
to believe phyſical extravagancies unleſs I ſee them; and there-
fore I fufpended my belief of the hairy fish becaufe I did not fee
it. The two lakes of Krin are divided by a finall ifthmus, un-
der which they communicate, and the intermediate earth ſhakes
when trod upon. In the meadow grounds of Margude, where
the lakes are, fometimes new ones are formed by a fudden
finking of the earth; and one particularly, not long ago, under
the eyes of the Morlacco Bilonofki. The earth fell in before
him, all at once, for thirty five paces of circuit, and the space
was filled with muddy water. Thefe fudden fubmerfions of the
boggy low lands of Seign, refemble the Cuore of the Polefine,
Dogado, Bolognese, and other low marshy districts that fwim
upon the water, and may with propriety be called floating
iflands. The celebrated Count GIROLAMO SILVESTRI, Canon
of Rovigo, has wrote a learned differtion concerning their pro-
duction, which is inferted in the Giornale d'Italia 1771, for De-
cember, and merits to be read. The nature of the land of Krin,
and Margude is analogous to that of thefe Cuore, being compoſed
of, and ſuſtained by roots of marshy plants cloſely wreathed to-
gether, which, being loosened by ploughing, fall a prey to the
waters. There was no fish in the new lake when we faw it;
but
J
L
*
3
}
[241]
+
but its depth, as far as we were able to examine it, appeared to
be confiderable. Its perpendicular banks fhewed that the fall
had actually happened not long before.
h
The meadow of Margude is furrounded by little hills, to fome
of which it is united by means of an eafy declivity. All theſe hills
That
are more or leſs vulcanic, particularly towards the baſe.
the hills fituated further back are likewiſe of the fame kind, at
leaſt in part, appears manifeftly by the rivulet Carocafiza, which
conveys along with it ferruginous lava, and black, grey, and
reddiſh ſtones of a vulcanic nature. The poor hamlet of Caro-
cafiza, is almoſt wholly inhabited by Gipfies, a wandering race,
as every body knows, and who infeſt the places through which
they paſs. In that part of Morlacchia fubject to the Veneti-
ans, many families of gipfies employ themselves peaceably in
huſbandry, though more commonly in manufacturing iron; and
they work very well, confidering the fimplicity of the inftru-
ments they make uſe of. Some alfo deal in horfes; and the
Turks on the confines deteft them, becauſe they are frequently
outwitted by their malicious cunning. The gipfies fpeak a
language different from the Illyrian either of Boffina or Dalma-
tia; probably, it reſembles the Armenian, or Mingrelian, as a
great part of the gipfies ſcattered over Europe, and particularly
in Bohemia, come from thoſe countries. Having croſſed the rivu-
let Carocafiza, which falls into the Cettina below Equum, and
leaving behind us the village which gives name to the rivulet,
we ſaw a little hill of Gypfum to the left of the road that leads
to Seign. This gypfum is of a much better quality than that of
the territory of Ancona, from whence Venice is fupplied. I
know. not if it would turn to the account of the merchants to
have this article from Morlacchia, becauſe the carriage to the
I i
£
fea
[242]
fea fide would coft the fourth part of a Venetian fol per pound;
but I should think that the fmall fum annually ſpent in the
Pope's ftate for this commodity might be more uſefully employ-
ed in Dalmatia, even if the preference were given at the cost of
a fmall difference in the price.
ture.
?
J
>
Of the Fortress of SEIGN, and the Plain near it.
f
1 1 1 1 1 1 4
The fortress of Seign, where the breafts of a few hundred
Morlacchi ferved as bastions againſt thirty thouſand Turks in
the laſt war, never was a remarkable piece of military architec-
Some are of opinion that Aleta ftood on the fame fpot.
Only one inſcription well preferved, on Greek marble, is found
there; and that has been long ago barbaroufly uſed in the wall
of a houſe but it might have been brought, as well as fome
others, from the ruins of Equum, only five fhort miles diftant,
or perhaps from fome more ancient city, whofe name and ruins
are now loft. This, however, cannot be faid of another infcrip-
tion, and ſome baſ-reliefs ill preſerved, that are in a place called
Le Fontaine, near Seign, where ſeveral other pieces of antiquity
have been dug up. The fituation is remarkably beautiful, and
therefore has not been neglected by the Romans, who always
fixed their fettlements in the best parts of the conquered coun-
tries. The Turks fortified a ſteep maſs there according to their
barbarous manner; that is, without any intelligence except the
planting a number of artillery. Their fortifications are in fact
almoſt all diſmantled, though this place is defcribed by Buſching
as in very good condition. A noble Venetian refides. at Seign
with the title of Providitore; and there are quarters for cavalry,
whoſe principal occupations are to eſcort the caravans from the
· Turkiſh frontiers to Spalatro. The hill of Seign is of breccia ir-
3
regularly
[ 243 ]
[243
regularly diſpoſed in ſuch a manner as looks more like the ruins
of ſtrata than real ftrata. It stands in the bottom of the plain
which extends to the Cettina, and is often overflowed by
that river. Below the town the plain is very narrow, and
circumfcribed by mountains that join the Cucuzu Clanaz.
At the foot of thefe mountains are ftrata of a blueish clay,
which contains various ſpecies of marine bodies calcined; and
huge maffes of marble breccia, fallen from the mountains, lie
in this clay. The beautiful and large valley of Cettina, or
Seign, is, as has been obferved, fubject to the inundations of
the river, which ferves it for boundary, running at the foot of
the hills of Rude and Trigl. It is alſo rendered unhealthy by
the water of the Sutina, which lofes itfelf in marfhes, and ſo,
perhaps, gave ground to geographers to fix a lake there. The
ſeveral rivulets and torrents, which, without any order or re-
ſtraint, defcend from the mountains, and unite their turbid
waters with the Cettina, produce, it is true, fome interruption
to the current, but that is neither confiderable for its extent,
nor for the time it lafts. The waters that do the greateft da-
mage are thoſe of the Rude, which ſpread themſelves near Trigl,
in the neighbourhood of which many remains of Roman monu-
ments are found; and there, perhaps, Tilurium once ſtood.
The ſtraits into which the river enters there, cutting the great
mountain that divides the diftrict of Cettina, are, perhaps, one
of the principal cauſes of the inundation, by retarding the cur-
rent. It would be a useful and meritorious attempt to endea-
vour to find a remedy for this evil, which renders a fine pro-
vince fruitless as well as unhealthful; and perhaps the remedy
might be found by reſtraining the principal bed of the river
within banks; preventing its ſpreading through the plain, and
by regulating the ftreams that fall into it. The Morlacchi of
the diſtrict of Seign, are not ignorant of the advantage that
might be derived from fuch an operation both to publick and
Ii 2
private
[ ['$244·1]
private intereſt, and they would willingly enough undertake the
work themſelves. That frugal and robust people, too often di-
verted from labouring their own lands by the appearance
of publick fervice, would be very glad to be employed to the
real advantage of their Prince whom they love and. venerate, if
the malice and avidity of a few did not find means, in this work.
alfo, to render their labours of little benefit to them.
1
I
}
ལ
03
HUT & YOU
રે
Of the course of the CETTINA, its precipices, and cafcadess
From Trigl to Duare the Cettina precipitates, from rock to
rock, on a bed cut almoſt perpendicularly through the bowels
of the mountain. Below Novafella, it runs over a tract of
ground that would be leſs horrid than the reft, if the waters,
left to their own force, did not keep it almoft conftantly over-
flowed. A ſhort mile diftant from the fort of Duare, a very
important poſt, and the only defence of the whole country on the-
fea coaft from Almiffa to Narenta, the Cettina forms a magnifi-
cent cafcade, called by the inhabitants Velika Gubaviza, to dif
tinguiſh it from a leffer fall a little below. I went to fee it early
in the morning, defcending from Duare, where I had been re-
ceived with cordial hofpitality by Signor Furiofi, a gentleman
of Almiffa, and governor of the Fort, whofe brave, anceſtors
contributed greatly to the conqueft of it from the Turks.
?
་ ་ ་
I was obliged fometimes to creep, and fometimes to leap
from one rock to another, in order to arrive at a place from
whence I could have a good view of the cafcade. Let them tell
you what they will of the precipices of Mount Pilate in Swit--
zerland, they cannot poffibly be more impracticable. Notwith-
ftanding this, the fhepherds, with their leather flafks full of.
water, climb, with furprising dexterity, from the bottom of
J 1A
thefe..
[245]
thefe abyffes, to the plain tops of the hills where their thirsty
flocks feed. If any of them miſs a ſtep, they muſt inevitably be
precipitated, and become food for the vultures; but fuch acci-
dents rarely happen. The vultures of thoſe parts, near the
mouth of the Cettina, are dreadful animals, meaſuring above
twelve feet from the tip of one wing to the other, and are able
to lift up in their claws, and carry away to their nefts, lambs,
nay, ſometimes ſheep, and even the children of the ſhepherds.
I ſaw one of them, and meaſured it myſelf. *
The right hand bank of the river, which rofe perpendicularly.
to the clouds above my head, when I was within reach of hav-
ing a full view of the fall, is about five hundred feet high;
and the left fide, on which I ftood, is fo fteep, that without
the inequalities of prominent rocks to lay hold on, it would be.
abfolutely impoffible to defcend..
In that place, the bed of the river is fcarcely eight feet broad;:
this profound narrowness, added to the horrour of the many
hanging rocks, is fufficient to depreſs the higheſt ſpirits. The
water of the river does not, however, precipitate from fo enor-
mous a height.. Its fall may be compared to that of Velino, near
Terni in Umbria. But the wild craggy precipice below, Duare
has
*The extraordinary bulk of the vultures of thofe parts is not to be wondered at,.
for the truth of this fact called in queftion; the vultures of the Swifs mountains
tre of the fame race, and not only carry off kids, lambs, wild goats and children,
ɔut will alſo attack grown up men. The fpecies is called, le Vautor des Alpes,
Conrad Gefner, though unaccountably
neglected by moft other ornithologifts. A well preferved ftuffed fpecimen of this
1oble bird may be ſeen in the curious collection of the Revd. Mr. Sprungli, near
Berne in Switzerland.
*
and it is particularly defcribed by old
ལ
[246]
*
has no kind of reſemblance to the valley of Pepigne, which,
amidſt its horrour, is rather pleafant. There a man habitually
melancholly, and who choſe to indulge his gloomy ftate of
mind, might ſet up his habitation; but, in the noiſy horrour of
the Cettina, buried between immenfe rocks, no man could live,
no`r
but one abandonded to defpair, an enemy to light, to fociety,
and to himſelf. The waters that precipitate from a height of
above a hundred and fifty feet, form a deep majeſtick found,
which is heightened by the echo refounding between the fteep
and naked marble banks. Many rocks tumbled down, which
impede the courfe of the river after its fall, break the waves,
and render them ftill more lofty and founding. Their froth,
by the violence of the repercuffion, flies off in ſmall white par-
ticles, and is raiſed in fucceffive clouds, which by the agitated
air, are ſcattered over the moift valley where the rays of the fun
ſeldom penetrate to rarify them. When theſe clouds afcend di-
rectly upwards, the inhabitants expect the Scircub, or fouth
eaft wind, and their obfervation never fails. Two huge pilafters
ftand, as if for a guard, where the river takes its fall; one of
them is joined to the craggy brink, and its tops covered with
earth, where trees and grafs grow; the other is of marble, bare
and inſulated. While my companion was drawing this magni-
ficent piece, Plate XI. I had time enough to write the deſcrip-
tion of it, and did not neglect to examine the ſubſtances that
compoſe theſe precipices. I found a very remarkable ſpecies of
Oclithus, whoſe grains are connected by a ſtrong ſparry cement,
ſpreading like net-work; and a beautiful kind of angulated
Breccia, with large white ſpots, and ftreaks of lively red, which
would be fit for any noble work. The Morlacchi who ſerved
me here as guides, feemed more curious and obſerving than any
I had before met with. They examined with great attention,
2
the
t
...
CASCADE OF
VELIKA GVBAVIZA
216.
Joc Leonardif scul·
Un
[ 347 ]
11
the progress of the drawing, and were fo far from fhewing won-
der or contempt at my collecting ftones, as our peaſants ufe to
do, that they appeared even curious to examine them themſelves.
My vanity was not a little flattered by the ſurpriſe of thoſe men,
born, and hardened in fatigue, at my agility in climbing and
defcending the rocks; and I was highly pleaſed on hearing one
of them exclaim; Gospodine, ti nifi Lanzmanin, tiff Vlah! Sir,
you are not an Italian poltron, you are a Morlacco. The ho-
neft Morlack, who was tired of following me among the rocks,
certainly paid ce a very fincere compliment. Little more than
half a mile below the Velika Gubaviza, the river falls again
from a height of about twenty feet, and forms the mala gubaviza,
or little cafcade. This exhibits a lefs magnificent, but a more
theatrical view. The river falls among craggy maffes at the
foot of the mountain, and then expands over the fpacious valley
flanked by woody hills, and commanded by the mountain of
Duare. The main ſtructure of this mountain is not of marble,
though the top is. Defcending towards the river, I obferved
a great variety of marine earth more or lefs hardened; but a
kind of aſh-coloured clay, without fand, predominates. From
the foot of mount Duare, a rugged hollow ftretches along fouth-
ward, feven miles to the fea fide, and preferves diſtinguiſhable
veſtiges of the abandoned bed of a river, which perhaps has
been interrupted by the fall of fome large piece of a mountain,
and the water turned another way. When I examined the
brows of theſe diſmantled hills, it appeared by no means im-
poffible, that from new ruins, new interruptions might ariſe,
and fo produce other deviations of the Cettina.
1
毒
​*
Courſe
Argilla bumido cærulefcens, uftionè rufefcens. Lin 52. 9.
Argilla vitrefcens, rudis. Wall. Argilla rudis fabulo deftituta. Wolterſdorf.
( 248 )
Course of the CETTINA from DUARE to its Mouth.
To
+
***
** Proceeding from Duare along the banks of the river, towards
its mouth, which is twelve long miles diftant to the weftward,
I was more confirmed in the opinion I had before conceived,
that the fummits of the greater mountains of littoral Dalmatia
are of marble, and their body and roots, of a different fubftance.
For as the top of Duare is marble, fo is that of mount Dinara,*
which stands between the river Cettina and the feas and as the int
ferior parts of the former are of earth more or less hardened, fo the
fides of the latter are compofed of various modifications of marine
matter, not marbly. Four miles below Duare, along the high road,
are certain veins of ſtone, that deſerve particular attention, las
they refemble, even when examined just under the eyes a wil
of ftones well fquared. Thefe veins are, in-appearance; almoft
wvertical, and their formation is analogous to that of ſimilar veins
near Spalatro, as both owe their induration to waters filtrated be-
tween the interſtices. When I give you an account of fome ob-
fervations made along the fea fide, on the exterior part of moust
Dinara, I fhall describe a piece of ftratum that lies open to the
eye, like that juſt mentioned; and it being of an inftructive
and fingular nature,had a drawing made of it. Further on
the road, in thetjuriſdiction of Slime, are to be ſeen, in great
quantities,ovarious kinds of flints of different colours, and eur
ous marbly compofitions of marine bodies, fufceptible of a fire
- polish
·
の​の
​†
ایی
**
1
XX
* This is not the mount Dinara that ſtands on the confines of the diſtricts of
Knin and Seign. It is common in Dalmatia to find, the fame names of moun-
tains, &c. in different places.
A
#
+ Cos. 4. particulis impalpabilius, effervescens, mollis, cædua, quadrum fpecim.
苏
​Wall. 84.
Quadratum, Alberti.
Quadrum Cefalp.
I 340 ]
polith. I have fome fpecimens that deferve a place in any ma-
ſeum whatever. One, in particular, is an aggregate of marble
compoſed of lenticularer, fragments of other foffil marine bodies,
and white angular pebbles. Among the fmall petrified Lenti
culares contained in this marble, fome have their concamerati-
ons diſtinguiſhable on the outfide. In looking with the naked
eye, on the fmooth fuperficies of this marble, one diſcovers a
very great variety of fections of the lenticulares contained in it;
and almost every partiole, when examined with a glafs, affords
fomething agreeable. The river, along the banks of which I
travelled, is almoſt every where embarraffed with tophus, which
increaſed daily, and renders it unnavigable, notwithſtanding
the great quantity of water that conftantly runs in it, and the
great advantage that would redound to the province, if it were
navigable as far as Duare. The mountains of Pogliza, on the
right of the Cettina, as well as thoſe of Slime, Svinijchie, and
Caccickie, bear great plenty of oaks, the timber of which might
be transported to the fea at a fmall expence, if the river was
rendered navigable. They would certainly coft much less than
the oaks of Iftria, and be very uſeful in ſhip building. It is
alfo probable, that the timber of thoſe hills is of a better qua-
lity than that which grows in Iftria, on low moiſt ground To
open fuch a canal, there would be no need to cut through
rocks with the chiffel, for axes would be ſufficient to clear away
the tophaceous beds that now obftruct the paffage.
P
In going down from the district of Svinifchie, towards Miriz,
there is a great variety of whetstone, grey and blue, and, in
the Breccia fallen down from the mountains, a great number of
fmall angular flints, and fragments of marine bodies. At Mriz,
the veſtiges of a large natural wall are ſtill ſtanding, particularly
K k
on
[ 250 ]
{
گی
on the left fide of the river, the waters have opened a paſſage
through it, which must have been by a work of long time.
The view of thoſe maffes of rocks forms a piece of feenery that
relieves the eye after the tirefome uniformity of the neighbour
ing uncouth places. Who knows to what ancient and deep
parts of mountains this vaft wall once belonged, and when it
was hardened into ftone by the waters that in other ages paffed
through the vertical aperture, of which, in the courſe of time,
fo ſtrange, a veſtige remained. The difpofition of the internal
mountains of Dalmatia, and of fome of thofe near the there, of
argillaceous naturè, is almoſt conſtantly traverfed here and there:
by veins of fund ftone, or of fandiftene mixed with hells. The
great wall.cf Mirix has on both fides. been flanked of old with
Atrata of clay, of which the contiguous mountains are alfo in
ternally compofed, and particularly thofe into the heart of
which the wall furetches, both on the right and left fide of the
river, which has forced its paffage through by overturningu là
part of its oThermplestuins manifeft in that place, and the great
height of the maffes through which the river forced its way,,
tearing the bowels of the mountain of which they formed a
part,. are objects well calculated to fhew how many, and great
alterations the fuperficies of this globe fuffers by the means of
mountain waters. And this is demonftrated not only by the:
river Cettina, or the Kerka, but even by every little torrent;
nor is it applicable alone to the mountainous regions, but alſo
SWI
to the low plains fubject to inundations that raiſe them; and to
to noned m mesdaer bis subul tu
the fea coafts, near the mouths of rivers, which, like Ravenna,
and Adria, in the courfe of a few ages, are fet at a distance,
}
1
}
{
ins addi
ad u odnows 28 Futu
པར
་
( ) [
from the fea.
X
re
me betyr f
J
སྨཱ
The
←
[ 25 ]
R
4
•
1
·
The Cettina, without the ſtraits of Miriz, spreads itſelf wide
over the valley, and is divided into many branches by the banks
of gravel, and taphaceous obftructions, Small barks may come
up within a short mile of this place, and formerly they used to
bring falt for trade to the fort of Viſſech, which was dismantled
an age ago, being thought ufelefs. Farlati, in his Illirico Sacro,
fpeaks of Viffech as a ftrong and well fortified place not many
years ago and Buſching calls it a city; though the truth is,
it neither has inhabitants, nor even veftiges of habitations From
this place to the fea, the river has a free courfe for three miles,
though it takes a winding road among rocks of frightful height;
which form perpendicular banks for a long tractoo. The variety
of profpects that occur in the ſhort courſe of thê Ĉetiina from
Kiffech to Almiffa, is truly charming. The paffage is fometimes
from very narrow canals to open vallies, well cultivated, and
partly covered with cattle; then between high rocks where no
iffue can be ſeen, and for by turns through a variety of plealant
views, and frightful paffages, you arrives at the mouth of the
river, regretting the fhort duration ofc for magnificent and ge
lightful a fpectacle. * ì, nganon silt to alwood en Fox 201
રેટ દ
kun yn i wed, or bet. Qualsɔ, llew 20:00 mil
ons of the Province of PogLIZA and its Government;} 1993;
a do zon lessicoceba ad buА
1
1094
10.
{
bha
¿
.2191CW MIFINVOCC
The appendages of mount Mollor extend, on the right of the
river, following its winding courfe from the village of Gardun
ol's que
n
PLOMI 907
to the fea.
oppofite to Trigl, all the way to the fea,
WORDCULT A
This tract of hills that
rifes between Cliffa and Duare, and reaches from the mouth of
and vah s
110m 90$ 1,20
J
the Xarnovniza to that of the Cettina, goes under the name of
239- WAI F OVO eq
Poliza. The river ferves as a confine to the province of Pogliza
for above thirty miles, interrupted only by a ſmall part of the
territory of Duare. The Poglizans have no city, neither had
Kk 2
they
1 252
252 1
1
P
-
1
ミ
​1
T
they any in ancient times, as far as records go. They pur
themſelves fpontaneously under the protection of the republick
of Venice, having fhaken off all dependance on the porte under
which they formerly lived, though always governing themselves
by their own ftatutes. The government of this little republick:
has fomething fingular in it; and deferves to be known. Three
orders or ranks of perfons compoſe the whole body of the peo
ple, confifting of about fifteen thousand. Twenty families pre--
tend that they are defcended from noble Hungarians, who in
turbulent times had taken refuge in theſe parts. Another larger
number of families boast that they are nobles of Bofnia, and the
reft are the commonalty of peasants. Every year, on St.-
George's day, the Poglizans hold their diet, which they calli
Zbor and each of the three orders forms a feparates encamp-s
ment on the plain of Gatta. There they chufe new magiſtrates,
or confirm the old ones. The Veliki Kres, or great Count, is
the firft dignity of the state, and is always chofen from the no…!
ble Hungarian families. The electors are, the inferior Counts
that is the chiefs of villages, chofen out of the Bofnian hobili
ty, and depated by their reſpective communities to the diet.
In the mean time, while the inferior Counts élect the great
Count, the peopley divided into various affemblies, repreſenting,
the inhabitants of the villages, chufe the inferior Counts for the
following yeary or confirm thofe whe deſerve it in their office..
And the firſt order of the ſtate proceeds at the fame time to the
election of a captain, and two proctors. It happens but feldom
that the great Count is chofen without violence, becaufe there's
is generally more than one candidate. In that cafe, after hav-
ing canvaffed the votes underhand, one of the boldest partifans
lays hold of the box containing the privileges of the community,
which is the depofite annually committed to the care of the
1
ĭ
}
IV
1
great
-
[ 253 ]
**
11
*
great Count: He runs with the box towards the houſe of him
for whom he is engaged, and every member of the diet has a
right to purfue him with ftones, knives, and fire arms; and
many make uſe of their right to its full extent. If the man.
takes his meaſures well, and gets fafe to the houſe propoſed
with the box, the great Count is duly elected, and none dares
make further oppofition. The laws of the Poglizans, and their
procedures retain fomewhat of the barbarous age in which they
were compiled; yet fome of them are very reaſonable. · If there
happens to be any litigation about land, the judge goes upon the
ſpot, and hears bath parties, fitting on the ground, with his
own cloak fpread under him; he decides the caufe before he
rifes, and generally to the fatisfaction of both parties. When
a Poglizan is killed by one of his countrymen, the Count, or
Governor of the village, attended by the principal people, goes
to the houſe of the murderer, and there they eat, drink, and
plunder what they like heft.. After this ceremony, notice is
given to the great Count, who alſo repairs without delay to the
fame place, and confumes every thing thats remains. If the
murder is not attended by fome atrocious circumſtance, the penal-
ty is forty dollars, which make about the value of eight ſequins ;
this contribution is called Karvarina, that is, bloodshed, or price
of blood. In former times, murderers were condemned to be
ftoned to death; but at prefent they are liable only to pecuniary
puniſhments, becauſe the great Count is unwilling to expoſe his
own fentence to an appeal to the Governor General of Dalmatia;.
yet ſometimes the criminal is foned directly after the fact is com-
mitted, and fo no time is left to appeal. Proofs by fire, and boil-
ing water, are ftill in ufe among thofe people, and the victims.
are fometimes feen difabled, and half roafted. The Poglizans
have another kind of torture, that is at leaſt equal to any of the
16918
ר
analogous-
+
[ 2,54€
]
analogous inhumane inventions among politer nations
131*
1월 ​3일
​they put
mu bio 120
fplinters of pine between the nails and flesh of thofe accuſed of
certain crimes, but never make ufe of any other wood, becaufe
Dalay
L
their ftatute prefcribes this fpecies alone.
.00
{
9113
or
(
i ho gnibagr
Notwithſtanding theſe traits of legal barbarity, the Poglizans
are humane, hoſpitable, and good friends, when they have no
ground for fufpicion. Their ignorance renders them diffident in
ſome caſes, hence it is impoſſible for frangers to get informa-
tion from them about any thing that might engage their curio-
fity, or to infpectancient records; and they are always afraid
that a ſtranger who can read, is a digger for hidden treafures.
The shepherds of Pogliza have ac particular degyption for St..
VITO, and folemnize His holiday by burninghodorous wood be
fore their cottages. In former times, the Sclavonic nations
worſhipped the God Vid. They believe that, by taking away:
thelice from the hallows of their mountains, where it dies the
whole year round,Aa north wind is raised, which deftroys their
plantations, and therefore they do not fuffer it to be touchedai
They treat their women uncivilly, and never fpeak of them
-without a preface of excufe, like the Morlacchi, which is a fufen
ficient fpecimen of the qudanefs of their manners. Their
Atrength, find: ftature, fobriety, and habitual fatigue, form thec
Poglizans for foldiers.Their country is inacceffible to large:
bodies of troops; but they can affemble, and come down from
their mountains in formidable numbers. Not many years ago,
flimulated by the spirit of revenge, they threatened the city of
Ahmiſſay making a defentand large body as far as the banks of
the river and there was a neceffity of using the artillery in order
to difperfe them.There is in the territory of Pogliza, a ham
let called Pirun Dubravay, which fignifies, the wood of Pinungs
20
*1
Perhaps,
25/1
suti arvulog sngrgr
}
A s
in.
Perhaps, in old times, the idol Pirun was adored there, as he
was at Novogorod, till JOHN BASILIOVirz, Great Duke of
Murcovy, conquered that famous city, and the provinces de-
pending on it..
1
'
い
​1
}
to
Of the City of ALMISSA, and the injustice done by F. FARLATI tơ
its inhabitants. Geographical errors of the Jame Author-
to wobíhib alu
- દ
च
•
J
いっ
​Almiffa, called Omish by the Sclavonians, is perhaps the
Onæum of ancient geographers, though not the Peguntium, as is
commonly believed. It lies at the foot of very high rocks, on
a levels points of land, which is bathed by the Cettina, and the
fex. Buſching, that it might enjoy a better air, has placed if
owa high rock; and Father FARLATI, whom I have often cited,
afferts that itis built on a hill, adding alfo with equal exacnefs,
that it is five miles diftant from the ruins of Epefums though,
the distance between theſe two places is thirteen long; miles..
There are no veftiges of good antiquity about Almiffa; but fome,
fragments of vaſes, tiles, and infcriptions found at Starigrad,,
that is, the old city, are indications of an ancient Roman ſettle-
ment there. The only monument of antiquity nowe preferved-
in Almiffa is a mall dedicatory infoription built up in the walk
of the city. It has the title of Bishoprick, but not the reſidence,
in the fame manner as Knin, where, notwithſtanding Bufching)
has placed a refident Biſhop. Almiffa, together with its territ
tory, forms a part of the diocefs of Spalatro. It has a feminary
of Sclavoniant priests deſtined to ferve in the parish churches of
Pogliza, and in the islands, where the Sclavonic liturgy ſubſiſts:.
Almiffa was a neft of pirates in thoſe ages of war and blood,
when circumſtances formed the temporary character of nations,
and fometimes led them from the principles of humanity to bar-
barous
上
​'
=
3 +
[256]
barous ferocity. The current of the river, hid, as it where, bes
tween high rocks, and the difficulty of purſuing them through.
dangerous banks of fand with which the mouth of it is embarraffed,
were no doubt, ftrong temptations to the Almiffans, in the times,
of anarchy, when they were fubjects, or allies of the Narentans,
and even later, when they lived under the Heneg of S. Sabba.
But in theſe days, they are totally changed, and the writer on
Illyrian affairs was certainly in the wrong to accuſe them of
being heirs to the bad difpofition of their anceſtors. This, other-
wife, refpectable author feems, contrary to the maxims of his
profeffion, to have determined to irritate a whole community.
Befides this, he has accumulatad fo many miſtakes in a few
lines, that I cannot help taking notice of them, to prevent his
readers from giving implicit faith to what that learned and cele-
brated man has wrote on the wrong information of his corref
pondents in Dalmatia. I fhall therefore point out feme inac-
curacies in the first volume, and which are crouded together be-
tween page 155 and 161. He fays that Scardona is a ſtrong
city, though it is only renafcent, and as yet has neither gates
nor walls of any kind. * He ſpeaks of Vrana on the faith of the
topographer
Scardona. Civitas exigui circuitus, fed “ménihus cintia, et propugnaculis at
bofiles aggreffiones fuftinendas, et propulfandas non invalidis-Vrana medica civitas loco
fatis amano—fortalitii non invalidi-formam accepit-Suburbana late diffundit ut fex-
centas fucile domes complectantur. Singuin, a Tiluro in occafum, et a Cliſſa in boream.
Spatio propemodum æquali dijunctum—affurgit mons Maffaron ab Cliſſa ad Tilurum
perductus-Prope fontibus Tiluri Jeu Cettina, loco anduo, & prærupto infidet Livnum
uzde haud longo fpatio interpoſito abeſt in occafum Verlica, caftellum neque infrequens,
& fatis validum-Oppidumy cui nomen eft Dumno-cui finitimur eft Pagus qui Clib,
nus diçitur,—Almifla, fiue Peguntium. Glodovi.cujuſdam cafelli fupra. Almiſſam.
meminit Palladius. Citclutum nunc imperio fubeft Venetorum Opus—arx firmiffi
mis manibus, ac munitionibus fefta. Farlati lyr. Sacr. Proleg P 2. a pag. 155
ad 159. Concerning his ſtrange miſtakes relative to Moſtar, ſee pag. 161.
+
} #
[ 257 D
r
+
topographer of the kingdom of Hungary, as a city, or caſtle
ftill exifting, and Vrana is only a heap of ftones and rubbiſh,
uninhabited, and frightful. Seign, which he fays is equidiftant
from Cliffa and the Cettina, ſtands five miles from the river, and
twenty from Cliffa. There is no hill near Spalatro that is cal-
led Maffaron, but there is mount Moffor that reaches from Cliffa
to the mouth of the Cettina. Klivno is not, as he writes, fitu-
ated at the fources of the laſt mentioned river, which arifes not
far from Verlika on the Venetian, territory, but it is thirty miles
diftant from the fources, and above twenty from any part of
that river. Verlika has no eaftellum validum; it is only a poor
village, more inconfiderable than an ordinary hamlet in Italy,
Dumpo, or Duvno, is not near the river Cettina, but, at leaſt,
forty mountaneous miles diftant from it, and about twenty
feven from Klivno. Almiffa is not the Peguntium of the anci-
ents, nor has it any hill or caſtle near it that is called Gladov;
but lies at the foot of one of the tops of the mountain Dinara,
which is called Borak. Citlue belongs to the Turks, not the Ve
netians. The fort of Opus is not furrounded by walls, its ram-
parts and platform are only of earth. Moftar ftands on the river
Narenta, and cannot be confuſed with the territory of Montene-
gro, which is at leaſt ſeventy miles diftant; its fituation is not
rocky, and its diſtance from Clobeck is not twenty, but feventy
miles.
1.
71
I
*
f
* I was hofpitably treated by feveral of the inhabitants of
Almiffa, and particularly by Count Pietro Caralipeò, who
deferves to be named with diftinction, as well for the integrity,
as for the politeness of his manners. The air of Almiffa would
be very unwholefome, on account of the marshes formed. at the
mouth of the Cettina, had not nature provided the remedy 'in
L1
a freila
[ 258 ]
a freſh wind, that rifes about midnight in all feafons, and blow-
*RINT SPOO
TQ ASIM
ing from between the fteep and narrow banks of the river diffi
pates the unhealthful exhalations. Nevertheleſs the Almiffans
are fubject to agues in the hot feafon:
1
* Me
The fiſhing at the mouth of the Cettina is very ill. managed,
though the fituation is fo convenient that it might eafily be im-
proved to national advantage. The Almiffans are fatisfied with
having refervoirs for their daily ufe, and think not of more ex-
tenſive advantages. Their fifh is of exquifite tafte, and very
large, as is generally the cafe where the fea and river waters are
mixed. In the black fea, for example, fishes grow, in a ſhort
time, to a bulk beyond the proportion of their kinds and the
good naturalift Pliny attributes it to the number of rivers that
run into it.* But the Almiffans, to avoid the trouble of fiſhing
themſelves, rather chufe to leave it to the neighbouring iſlanders,
and to buy the fish from them..
vol pot.. ..
}
The territory of Almiffa runs fifteen miles along the fore as
far as Brella, and, although not cultivated with much skill, pro-
duces excellent wine; the goodness of the foil fupplying the
defects of cultivation. The Mofcadello, and old Profecco, of Al-
miffa, and in general all the wines made there with any tolerable
care, deferve a place at the nicest tables. If they were better
known, they would certainly be prefered to many foreign wines
that are much more coftly. The Almiffans have fome poffeffions
on the coaſt, where the foil is of a bituminous nature, and the
wine made there retains the fmell of the foil.
に
​}
}
пов
tod of
Pifcium genus omne præcipue celeritate adolefcit maxime in Ponto, caufa mult' trudo
amnium dulces inferentium aquas. Plin. Hift. Nat.
·
K
•
מזומן
STRATA in the
FRITENNIS
प्र
KE FROM
HOC
{
I
يم
الحسد
me
a Wat n the Sea Shore below ROGO SNIZA
JUST
30
"
"
EVIDJE
P. 259.
Jac Leonardif sculp.
[ 259 1
Of the natural Wall of ROGOSNIZA, and concerning VRULLIA,
the Peguntium of the Ancients.
3
3
The coaft throughout the diſtrict of Almiffa is compofed of
marble ſtrata on the upper parts of the hills, and of different
kinds of argillaceous earth, and whetstone below. In a ſmall
bay below the village of Rogofniza, there is, quite expoſed to
view, a natural wall (Pl. xii) like that which I met with on the
other fide of mount Dinara, by the fide of the Cettina, in the
diſtrict of Slime. The point A of the promontory is of fubverted
whetstone. The wall B is of fandftone. The ruins marked C
are produced by the diffolution of the femilapideous earth D, by
which the whole wall is fuppofted. At E there is another piece
of natural wall, and at F are new veins of blue earth. GGG
are alſo whitiſh walls, and HH HH other heaps of marine clay
indurated, without traces of Teftacei. The waters which fall
down the back of the mountain from the tartaréous cruft THI,
whereof ſome large pieces, that have tumbled down, lie by the
ſex fide. The ſtone K is one of thoſe that compofed the wall B,
and is two feet long. Theſe natural walls are ſo well concocted,
that at firft fight they appear remains of ancient fabricks.
·
}
{
}
↓
2
Four miles to the eastward of the fmall bay where I had the
natural walls drawn, the place is called Frillia. This name is
common to a mountain; a large hollow, and the fubmarine
fprings that are ſeen there. This hollow is the fame of which I
have ſpoke of before, and it ſeems to have been excavated by fome
ancient river. The ſprings which bubble up from under the fea-
are fo confiderable, that they might paſs for the rifing again of a
river funk under ground. Vrullia has the fame derivation as the
L 1 2
}
word
{
[26
]
I
gm ta
t
1
+
word Vril, which in Sclavonian fignifiés a fountain; and this
etymology, rendering the name of Vrullia, the Berullia of Por-
phyrogenitus, analagous to that of Peguntium, fince Пnyv and
Inyu
Vril are ſynonimous, induces me to believe, that the caſtle named
Peguntium by ancient geographers was fituated in this place, and
not at the mouth of the Cettina. No remarkable veftiges of an-
tiquity now exift on the fpot; yet it is evident, by the quantity
of fragments of vafes, tiles, and fepulchral infcriptions how and
then dug up, that this tract of coaft was well inhabited in the
Roman times. The principal cauſe why the tracts of ancient Ha-
bitations cannot be diſcovered about Vrullia, is the ſteepness of
the hill above it, and the quantity of ſtones brought down from
thence by the waters. The mouth of the hollow of Vrullia is
dreaded by feamen, on account of the fudden impetuous gufts of
wind that blow from thence, and, in a moment, raiſe a kind of
hurricane in the channel between the Primorie and the island of
Brazza, to the great danger of barks furpriſed by it.
7
5
13
Not far from this place, Cantelius, whoſe chart of Dalmatia
is adopted as one of the beft, places the mouth of a river,
which he derives from the lake of Prolofaz, by him called Bref-
tolaz. But whoever knows the continuity and height of the
mountain Dinara cannot admit even the poffibility of fuch a ri-
ver. Many writers on Illyrian affairs, and feveral geographers,
have copied this error; and likewife the pretended ifland of the
river Cettina near its mouth, and innumerable other mutilations
of names, and diftances.
}
1*
Of the PAKLARA, or REMORA of the Latins.
}
2
I will finiſh this letter by relating a fact, to which you may
give that degree of faith which you think it merits. You have
often
[261]
}
f
>
ر
7
often read, in ancient naturalifts, of wonderful things done by
the Remora, or Echeneis, and not without fome furprife will
have learnt Pliny's ftory, who, after having told us, "on the
faith of another, how Anthony was retarded on his voyage by
means of this fish, afferts pofitively, that a fhip with Caligula
on board and four hundred rowers, was actually ſtopt by one of
thoſe fiſhes, while the reft of the fleet went on at a great rate.
When I read this, I contented my felf to fhrug up my fhoulders,
without perplexing my brain to find out by what natural prin-
ciple, or matter of fact, fuch an opinion could become fo gene-
rally received, that a man of fenfe, as Pliny certainly was,
fhould affirm it in pofitive terms. But chance led me to the
diſcovery. We were failing in a ſmall bark between Vrullia
and Almiffa with a fresh equal gale, in the afternoon. The ma-
riners were all at reft, and the fteerfman alone was awake, and
attended in filence to the direction of the bark; when, on a fud-
den, we heard him call aloud to one of his companions, order-
ing him to come and kill the Paklara. Our learned friend
Signor Guilio Bajamonti was with me, and understanding
what the man meant, defired him to fhew him the fish that he
wanted to be killed, but the fish was gone. Having interro-
gated
}
> >
*
}
* Ruant venti licet, & fæviant procellæ (echeneis) imperat furori, virefque tantas
compefcit, et cogit ftare navigia-Fertur actiaco marte tenuiffe prætoriam navim Antonii
properantis circumire, & exhortari fuos, dones tranfirit in alîam. Ideoque & Cæfari-
ana claſſis impetu majore protinus venit. Tenuit & noftra memoria Gaii principis ab
aflura antium remigantis. Nec longa fuit illius more admiratio, ſtatim caufa intellecta
quum e tota claſſe quinquaremis fola non proficeret. Exilientibus protinus qui id quære-
rent circa navim invenerunt adhærentem gubernaculo, oftenderuntque Caio indignanti
boc fuiffe quod fe revocaret quadringentorumque remigum obfequio contra fe intercederet.
Qui tunc, pofteaque videre eum limaci magnæ fimilem effe dicunt, E noftris quidam
latinis Remoram appellavere eum. C. Plin. fec. Nat. Hift. 1. xxxii. c. 1.
}
1
[ 262 J
1
༣
ये
gated the fleerfman, who did not want fenfe, and was a fifher--
man by profeffion,. why he had ordered the Paklara to be kil-
led, and what harm it had done; he anſwered, without heſita-
tion, that the Paklara ufed to take hold of the rudder with his
teeth, and retarded the courſe of the bark fo fenfibily, that
not only he, but every man who fat at the helm felt it there
without feeing it. He added, that many a time he himfelf had
catched the Paklara in the fact, and had frequently killed and
eat it. That it was often met with in the waters of Lilla.
That in ſhape it reſembled a conger eel, and its length did not`
ufually exceed a foot and a half. That if I had a mind to fee,
and catch one of them, I needed only to go in a fishing boat, in
the warm feafon, between the islands of Lefina and Liffa,,
where he had never failed to meet with them every year I will
not defire you to believe every thing my pilot faid but confefs.
that I should be very glad to fee the Paklara when it had taken
hold of the rudder of a bark under fail. The wonderful ftrength-
of the mufcles of fome little marine animals, fuch as the Lepa-
des, that ſo obſtinately refift any attempt to difengage them from
their rocks; the ſtroke proceeding with ſuch rapidity from the
Torpedo, known at Venice by the name of pefce tremolo, and in
the ſea of Dalmatia by that of Trnak; the vigour fhewn by the
Dentici in their convulfive motions even when out of their own
element; not to mention the larger fifh, fuch as, Tunny,
Dolphins, &c. give me ground to fufpect, that, if all that the
ancients wrote concerning the Remora be not juft literally true,
it is not altogether falfe. It is certainly a thing worthy of fome
reflection, that Pliny ſpeaks fo diffufely concerning this phe-
nomenon, as of a known fact that could not be called in quef-
tion. The Greeks alfo adopted the notion of this extravagant
faculty, by fuperftitiously hanging the Remora about women
with
[ 283 )
with child, to prevent abortion. I am not, however, fo ready
to credit theſe extravagancies, or in the leaſt perfuaded of the
wonderful retarding force of this little fish; and think it fuffi-
cient to believe that the force of the Paklara may be felt at the
rudder of a ſmall bark, without troubling myſelf further about
the Remora.
}
}
The Remora of the ancients, and the Paklara of our days, have
this remarkable difference, that the first is almoſt always de-
fcribed as of the teftaceous kind, and the fecond is of the genus
of the Murænæ.
€
}
}
Adieu, my moſt eſteemed friend, and pray Heaven to grant me
long journies, and good health.
TO
[ 265 ]
TO THE
HONOURABLE AND RIGHT REVEREND
THE
LORD BISHOP OF LONDONDERRY, &c.
Concerning the PRIMORIE, or PARATALASSIA of the Ancients.
T°
O your genius, My Lord, indefatigable in the fearch of
nature's fecrets, and which often leads you through
rough and deſert paths, rarely, or never trod by the
great, and
to that friendſhip with which you honour thoſe who ſpare neither
trouble nor fatigue in clambering over fteep and rocky moun-
tains, to read the ancient phyfical hiſtory of our globe, I owed
my firft excurfion to Dalmatia, as well as the earneft defire of
returning thither. Afterwards, when it became neceffary that I
muſt abandon that intention, by embracing your generous propo-
fals to paſs to the obfervation of greater objects, in more remote,
and hitherto unknown lands, particular circumstances determin-
ed me to repaſs the Adriatic, inſtead of navigating the ocean.
Upon this occafion I revifited that part of Dalmatia which I
before had the honour of viewing only curforily in your Lord-
hip's company; and depending on my remaining at least two
years in that kingdom, I furniſhed myſelf with preliminary in-
formations, and advanced further into the country than the ne-
ceffity of your affairs permitted you to go. But the plan of this
Mm
expedition
L
[266]
+
expedition alfo being difconcerted by an unforeſeen accident;
and being hence forced to content myſelf with the little that I
faw, and under the neceffity of proving to the world that I was
not idle, I put my obfervations in fuch form as they were fuf-
ceptible of, though not fuch as I would have chofen had I
been able to have made them more complete. I rely fo much.
on your goodneſs, My Lord, that I flatter myself you will not
be diſpleaſed at my addreffing a part of theſe obſervations, fuch
as they are, to you; and that you will accept of them as a tefti-
mony of
my grateful and reſpectful remembrance of you, which
no diſtance can ever. remove or diminiſh.
1
1
Of the Town of MACARSKA..
{
>
}
259385
That tract of fea coaft which lies between the two rivers-
Cettina and Narenta,, the firft of which is the Neftus and Tilu+-
rus, and the fecond the Narus of the ancients, comprising:
what was properly called Dalmatia two ages, before, our Era,.
was known by the Greeks of the low times under the name:
of Paratalaffia, and from thence was named Primorie by the.
Slavi. Appian tells us that the Ardiei, or Vardei, poffeffed at
great number of cities there, partly built by them, and partly.
taken by force from the neighbouring nations fubdued by them,.
before the invaſion of the Romans; and it appears by the Tabulas
Peutingeriana, that after the conqueft, many of thofe cities re--
mained, and were inhabited by the conquerors who alfo found--
ed new fettlements. And, if other proofs were wanting to con-
firm this truth, the many infcriptions dug up in all thofe parts
near the fea, and fometimes even among the hills, afford fuffici-
ent ground to fuppofe it...
!
'
>
The
[ 267 ]
The pleafantnefs of the coaft, the fertility of the foil, the
convenient fituation for commerce with the inland provinces,
and the great plenty of fish in thoſe waters, must have invited
ancient nations, though barbarous, to form fettlements there ;
but from their imprudent cultivation of the hills, and the ne-
ceffity which they have, perhaps, been under of cutting down
the woods for various ufes, may, probably be derived the dete-
rioration of the country, the lofs of much ground near the fea,
by its being covered with gravel, and the impetuous fury of
the mountain torrents, which render a part of it uninhabitable.
{
Macarſka, in our days, is the only town in all that territory,
and, from its fituation, may be ſuppoſed to have roſe out of
the ruins of the ancient Rataneum of Pliny, which probably was
the fame that DION CASSIUS calls Retinum. The ſubter-
raneous grottos, of which there are many in that neighbour-
hood, are analogous to thoſe which, as that hiftorian tells us,
reached far within the mountains about Retinum, and to which
the inhabitants retired, having firſt ſet on fire their city, with
the Romans in it, when they took it by ftorm. After the
total deftruction of Retinum, the fituation was not altogether
abandoned; for we find it called Muchirum by Procopius, and
in the fixth centnry, it was called Mucarum. In the fame cen-
tury, the council of Salona, preferved to us by Tommaso the
Arch-deacon, created a Biſhop of Mucarum; and the fepul-
chral inſcription of Stefano the firft Biſhop of that fee, was dug
up in our days. Soon after, the Avari came, and took poffef-
fion of the Frimorie, and the plains of Narenta, which, after
that event, got the name of Pagonia, becauſe theſe new gueſts
were idolaters, and had the denomination of Paganini in Illyri-
An). It might be conjectured that Inaronia was another name.
of this tract of maritime country, taken from Narona the capi-
'
M m 2
Σ
tal.
•
"
}
{ ་
[268]
16
"
tal; if it did not feem more reafonable to read it Maronia,, with
Tommafo the Archdeacon, and in that caſe, the barbarous
word Maronia would be equivalent to Paratalafia, and Primarie.
The anonymous writer of Ravenna miſtakes Mucaram for Inara-
nia, which in the table is placed twelve miles to the eaſt of
Onæum, or Alinifia; but Mucarum, perhaps, should ftand feven
miles further eastward, where traces of buildings are feen with-
out any name. Porphyrogenitus gives the name of Mocras { to
Macarſka, making it the capital of one of the three districts
comprehended within the limits of Pagania, that is to fay, in
the fea coaft between the mouths of the two rivers above men-
tioned. As the name of Pagania is derived from Paganins fo
Mocros, and the corrupted names Mucerum, Muchirum, and
Muichirum, probably come from the word Mokar, which figni-
fies moist, or watered; and hence, agrees very well with the
fituation of Macarfka, which is watered by feveral perennial:
rivulets.
DIG
2000
!
’
$7
$
Macarika, after having formed a part of the Narentan ftate
for feveral ages, when thofe pirates were exterminated, paſſed,
together with the reft of the Primorie, under the obedience of
various chriſtian princes, in the low ages; afterwards it became
fubject to the Ottoman Porte, and at laft, in the year 1646, it
gave itfelf voluntarily to the Republick of Venice, which receiv--
ed it, and gave the town many privileges.
-
!
7.
?
{
རྗ{
113
+
J
}
}
}
Whatever may have been the former name of Macarſka, cer-
tainly nothing ancient remains about it in our days. It is al-
together new built, and is the only town in Dalmatia where no
ruined houſes, and heaps of rubbiſh are ſeen. The extent of it
is but ſmall, and the population not numerous; it has no forti-
fications
、、ད
2 *
[[269] 1
$
1
រ
$
ara misel ron Zihn
1
}
*
fications of any kind, and is actually without either gates or
¿walls' ! 'whatever modern geographers may fay, and particularly
Bufching who is alfo quite miflaken in placing it on the top of
sa hill. In finds at the foot of a great mountain, and stretches
*along the' fides of its own fmall, and not very good harbour,
"on" plain' ground. The air of this diſtrict was not very falu-
belous in the laft age, through the unwholefome vapours exhal-
ed from a ſtanding pool of brackish water. The inhabitants
came to a refolution of opening a communication between it and
the fea, well knowing that a final tract of ground overflowed
by fetid 'waters corrupts the atmoſphere to fome diſtance round
it; and, in fact, the iffue correfponded perfectly well with their
patriotic views; and the population, that goes on augmenting,,
has enjoyed much better health fince than it did before.
VI
} t
に
​DOLG
4
1 *
The people of Macarſka have very lively parts, and apply
themſelves particularly to trade; they alfo fucceed well in let-
ters, of which the Abbè Clemente Grubbiſch gave a recent and fig-
nal example. He was born at Macaríka of an ancient and noble
family, and in 1773 was immaturely fnatched away by death,
from the republick of letters, and from his country, to which
he was an honour; from travellers who were at the fame time
inftructed and entertained by him, and from his friends, by
whom he was defervedly loved and eſteemed. He has, no
doubt, left fome valuable MSS. among which the Storia Na-
rentina, pear finiſhed, deferves particular mention; and a treatife
on the origins and analogies of the Sclavonic language, full of
laborious erudition.. This learned man, whofe manners were
}
A
poar
}
worthy
* Maty, and La Martiniere give in their Dictionaries, a large harbour to>
Macafíka
[ 270 ]
}
1
worthy of the golden age, had retired to a country houfe,
where, by his example, he endeavoured to reform the awkward
huſbandry of the Primorians; at the fame time, attending to
his ftudies with philofophic tranquillity, and enjoying the
ſweets of a folitude, which he had rendered agreeable and plea
fant. Monfignor Kadcich Arch-biſhop of Spalatro, born at Ma-
carfka, was likewife equally diſtinguiſhed by the nobility of his
family, and by his learning. He publiſhed a courfe of moral
theology in Sclavonian for the uſe of the clergy officiating in
that language, and who had nothing of that kind to affift them
before; and left his library, well furniſhed with eccleſiaſtical
books for the benefit of his country. Neither ought F. Andrea
Cadcich Mioffich to be omitted among the writers of Macarſkā,
he having publiſhed a collection of national heroick fongs;
though it muſt be confeffed that he ſhewed little good taſte in
the choice, and inferted many things trifling and apocryphal.
1
The foil about Macaríka produces abundance of oil and wine,
befides almonds, mulberry trees, honey and fome corn. The
nature of the ground is light, and gravelly, and does not want
moiſture, as the other littoral parts of Dalmatia generally do.
It is easy to fee that the exterior fuperficies has been formed by
fmall torrents; and thefes torrents have hallowed their beds in
the fame fubftances that were triturated by them of old. A
rivulet called Frutak runs through the town, but its water is
not fweet, nor wholefome, though it proceeds from a place
much higher than the level of the fea. The water of the brook
Budiceviza is therefore made ufe of; it is very pure and light,
and runs down from the fmall village Cotifena into the fea near
Macarſka.
1
1
!
It
}
[ 275
It ſeems, that, notwithſtanding the quantity of gravel and
mud brought down upon the coaft, by the mountain waters, the
fea has gained, and continually gains ground in thoſe parts. In
calm weather a piece of a wall is feen under water in the mouth
of the harbour; and it certainly was not built under water in an-
cient times: and the rock called St. Peter's rock, which covers the
harbour, is continually incroached upon by the waves, tho' they
beat not with equal force there, as on fome other promontories-
along the coaft. The contiguous pool likewife, where the wa-
ters ftagnated not long ago, becauſe they had not a free courfe
to the fea, afforded a proof of the rifling of the level; for in dig-
ging the communication before mentioned, they found the re-
mains of a magnificent tomb, and pieces of noble columns;.
and I faw at Macarſka, a very beautiful medal of M. Julius Phi--
lippus,. in gold, that was found in the fame canal; neither of
which certainly were pleaced originally in a fituation covered.
by water..
1
2
$
•
+ }
雙
​{
Of the Mountain Biocova, or Biocovo, that commands MA--
?
CARSKA.
}
ń
A
5
The higheſt mountain on all the coaft of Primorie, is the Bi-
bcová, at the bottom of which the town of Macarka lies. This
mountain appears white at a distance, and without any trees;
fo the names of Albio, and Adrio,, which it bore of old, are both
very ſuitable to it.. The bare, ftoney, and ſteep aſpect of this-
uninhabited mountain, exhibits a view fufficiently ugly to dif
fuade an attempt to vifit it.. It is not poffible to afcend it on.
horfeback, and in many places, very difficult to climb on hands-
and feet. Notwithſtanding which, the curiofity to fee the na--
tural confervatories of ice, which, in the burning heat of fum- -
mer,,
[ 272 ]
mer, maintain themſelves in the caverns of the higheſt part of
the mountain, induced me to attempt the afcent. My agreeable
friend, Signor Guilio Bajamonti, confented to bear me company.
We left Macarſka at day break, with two Primorians for guides,
without whom, my prudent friend did not chufe to go, not
thinking it adviſeable to expoſe himſelf to the chance of meeting
Haideus, many of whom, fecure by the ruggedness of the fitu-
ation, inhabit like wolves, the caves of Biocova. I, lefs confi-
derate, and more difpofed to depend on the probity of theſe
banditti, who indeed too often become fo through the avarice
of a rapacious minifter, and not for their own crimes, would
without much hefitation have gone alone. The back of the
mountain is altogether ruinous, and the leaſt impracticable paths
that we could find, were thofe by which the rain water runs
down. The gravel and broken ftones gave way under our feet,
and put me in mind of the fatigueing afcent of Vefuvius, in
which I had the honour to accompany your Lordſhip, and where
our steps forward, ferved fometimes to make us flide farther
back.
The fine view of the fea, promontories, and iflands, which
we enjoyed from that height, was almoft the only compenfation
for our labour. It was the beginning of October, and there was
no ice in the refervoirs which we went to fee through fuch difaf-
trous paths-leaping from rock to rock. We went down into
a very deep gulph or cavern, that receives light from above, and
on one fide pierces far into the bowels of the mountain; we found
a very ſharp cold air in it. Without, we faw wooden troughs,
where the thepherds ufe to melt ice and fnow for their flocks to
drink. The mountain is almoft quite bare of trees, even in
the deepest and most inacceffible hollows; and very rarely, in
proportion
[ 273 *
]
痣
​$
proportion to its extent, the traces of ancient woods are ſeen;
though no doubt, they have once exiſted in the impracticable parts
of the mountain, and far from habitations, from whence it was
phyfically impoffible to tranfport large pieces of timber. But the
fires kindled by the fhepherds to warm themfelves, and fore-
times, perhaps, to enjoy a ſavage ſpectacle, have deſtroyed even
the traces of large trees. They fay, that in former times, the
flamés proceeding from theſe flender beginnings, continued fome-
times for whole months.
}
The upper part of the Biocova, is compoſed of breccia and
common whitish marble. In the maffes of the firft, as well as
of the fecond kind, are found adventitious pieces of angulated
flints, cracked without, and full of fmall marine bodies; but
within, it is hard, clofe, almoft tranfparent, and capable of a
very bright and equal poliſh. The roots of this mountain ex-
tend along the fea fide, from one end to the other of the territory
of Macarſka; and hence all the foffils, properly belonging to it,
which I ſhall have occafion to ſpeak of in this long letter, as I
proceed in the courſe of my journey, to the different places where
I obferved and collected them.
1
But before I end this account of my jaunt to the Biocovo, per-
mit me to add, as a fpecimen of the character of the Primorian
peaſants, a little adventure that we met with in coming down
from the mountain. The two men who went before us ármed,
according to the cuftom of the nation, happened to fee a viper
that was moving peaceably on near the path. They both ran
furioufly to kill it with ftones; our interceffion to let it alone
had no effect; they ſaid that it was a malefick demon diſguiſed
in that form, and even turned with horrour from the way which
Nn
they
[274]
they thought it might have touched. Signor Bajamonti, having
faid much to convince them of their ridiculous extravagance,.
went and took up the dead animal, which they were ftill ftaring.
at with frighted countenances, and ftept towards them,, that they.
might fee it was really dead. Theſe two brutes prefented their
muſkets to him, and broke out into the most injurious terms,
and moft decifive threats: and it was truly a piece of good for-
tune that my friend did not throw the dead fhake at them, as
he was going to do, for in that cafe they would undoubtedly
have ſhot him. Now was he. not in the wrong to be. fo defir-
ous of Primorian guides for the defence of his perfon? We were:
told, by way of excufe for them, that fuperftition was the cauſe.
of all-fo much the worſe I think; and the excufe would be:
equally bad, if fuch extravagance could proceed from motives:
of true religion..
Of Meteors in the PRIMORIE..
From the mountain Biocova, as the Primorians fay, proceed the:
winds, hail,,rain, and every change of weather. The truth is, this
mountain is their meteorological theatre. But their moft diligent:
and accurate obfervations are thofe concerning the northerly winds;
and I think they deferve to be inferted here, becauſe my late
friend Count Grubbiſch, affured me that he had found them by
experience very exact. Before the boreal wind breaks out, if
there is any fog upon the Biocova, it is raiſed on high, and torn,,
and ſcattered a thouſand ways; a roaring noiſe is heard within.
the mountain, which foon becomes dreadfully loud; and the
air grows sharp. If there is no fog upon the Biocova, the clouds
equally diftended over that part of the fky, and an unuſual cold-.
nefs of the air announce the Borea. The fhepherds fay, and its
feems
[
275 ]
1
?
feems demonftrated by fact, that this wind comes out of the
gulphs and chaſms of the mountain. It is certain that it defcen is
from the fummit towards the fea like an impetuous and fuddent
torrent. The caves of Eolus fituated in the high mountains, and
the ftorms that precipitate from the heights, according to the an
cient poets, ſhew that theſe obſervations have been made of old,
by more poliſhed nations. Seneca alfo thought that the winds
aroſe from fubterranean abyffes, and forced their way through the
apertures of the earth. When, by any accident, the woods of
the diftant parts of the mountain are fet on fire, the boreal winds
blow as long as the fire continues, but with moderate force, if the
vallies, where the fire is, be but moderately deep; but this occa-
fions a long drought.
This puts me in mind of what is related concerning the inha-
bitants of Segna, in the hiſtory of the war of the Venetians againſt
the Ufcocchi. The writers affirm, that thoſe robbers, by light-
ing great fires in the woods, or throwing great quantities of
burning branches into the chafms, raiſed the boreal wind,
which hindered the enemy's veffels from coming near their coaft,
and ſometimes was the cauſe of their lofs in that dangerous chan-
nel. When a good deal of rain falls on the mountain, there is
no Borea, or, if it begins to blow, it increaſes in violence only,
in proportion as the mountain becomes dry. But if, after a long
drought, there falls a little rain, then the borea ufually blows;
or when that does not happen, it is a fign that a foutherly wind
If, after twenty-four hours of borea, the fky does not
become perfectly ferene, it is a fign that the wind will continue
long, or change into a foutherly wind or fcirocco. The duration
of the borea is commonly for odd days; that is, one, three, five,
ſeven, nine, to thirteen, and ſometimes to fifteen following days,
This wind uſually begins to blow when the fun or moon rife or
is near.
N n 2
fet.
[276]
1
•
fet. About break of day, and at mid day, it relaxes, and fome-
times ceaſes; or when this does not happen, it is a manifeft figne
of a long continued violence. There is alſo a kind of periodical
borea, that generally blows the feventh, feventeenth, and twen--
ty-feventh of March; and that which blows about the feaſt of
Fentecoft is ſtill more conftant, and therefore has the name of
Dubovciza. They pretend, that if the borea proves mild at that
ſeaſon, it will be fo throughout the whole fummer. When this
wind is moderate, it is thought ufeful, and even neceffary; efpe-
cially after the vines and olives have been in bloſſom, becauſe
it carries off the dried flowers quickly: it/is alfo beneficial to
the vines, when they have fuffered by two much humidity. But¨
it is, for the most part, deftructive to man, by caufing pleuri-
fies, and malgnant fevers; and the intenſe cold it produces, is
often fatal to ſmall cattle feeding on the mountain. The fiſher-
men ſay that it drives off the coaft the maſſe, or ſwarms of emi-
grating fish; and when it rages in all its fury, it tears and
breaks plantations, plucks up trees by the roots, dries and pulve--
riſes the earth, then carries it away through the air, or leaves it
weakened and deprived of vegetable force. Sailors are afraid to
truſt themſelves by night in the channel, between the Primorie
and the islands of Brazza and Leffina, dreading the fudden fury.
of the borea, which precipitates from the mountain, or iffues -
with equal violence from the bottom of Vrullia; and hence trade-
fuffers much prejudice and interruption..
F
The fcirocco and wefterly winds reign alſo by turns in the Pri-
morie, and confequently have been ſubjects of obſervation to the:
fishermen and feamen. They foretel the fcirocco from the unu-
fual height of the waters, and northerly winds from their low-
nefs, and from the extraordinary rapidity of the currents.
The periodical fcirocco blows every year about Eaſter; it
brings
[ 277 ]
.
brings heat, but not rain; its ordinary period is of twenty days,
and it uſually ceaſes at funfet. When this wind does not blow
in the manner and at the time above mentioned, the fummer is
almoſt free of wefterly winds, whirlwinds, and ftorms. But the
Scirocco is prejudicial to plants, drying and burning up the buds;
though it hurts not men any other ways than by cauſing an ex-
traordinary weakneſs and laffitude; inconveniencies that are fully
compenfated by a plentiful fishing, and a good crop of corn on
the mountain. In the fummer time, when the westerly wind
ceafes for a day, it is a fign of the fcirocco the day following,
which uſually begins with a fort of whirlwind. Theſe whirl-
winds are like the ague, for, when not ephimeral, they return
the next day about the fame hour. Perhaps they might be
prognofticated by making obfervations on the motions of the air-
before and after. They ſay, that fometime ago, there fell, in
the heart of Bofnia, a fhower of Sardelle, to the great terror and.
contrition of thofe poor Turks; if the fact is really true, it muſt
be attributed to fome typhon, or hurricane, of which there are
many examples..
When it lightens in fummer with a ferene fky, it prefages long
drought; but if the lightning proceeds from a thick cloud, it
indicates a ſtorm of wind and impetuous rain. In winter, the
lightning, which is frequent on the other fide of the Adriatick,
prefages wind from the point oppofite to the lightning. There
feldoms falls much rain after the loudeft claps of thunder, and
there is a Dalmatian proverb to this purpoſe; Kad vechie garmi
magna dafgia pade; the more thunder the lefs rain.
The rainy feaſons in Primorie, are in the beginning of au-
tumn, and in the end of winter. But if the winter and fummer
happen
[ 278 ]
happen both to be rainy, all their products mifcarry. In rainy
fummers, there falls, when the nights are clear, a reddiſh dew,
which is very obfervable, eſpecially to thoſe who are at fea;
they pretend that this dew blaſts the vines.
i
J
and
Snow and ice do not last long in Primorie, not even on the
top of the Biocova, though beyond that mountain, and among
the rocks of mount Moffor, they fometimes continue from one
year to the other. When there falls much fnow, there is plenty
of all products, but efpecially of oil, and the more, if it falls
early in the ſeaſon; but the cold when late, does great damage,
as it nips the juices of the plants in motion; and the ſmaller
cattle are alſo much hurt by it. The cold indeed is never very
ſharp in thoſe maritime parts, except when the borea blows, and
without that, the month of January is as warm as April with us.
The whole fummer is generally hot to exceſs, and in the month
of September, I fuffered rather more by the heat of the air, than
ever I had done in 'Apulia. Hail is lefs frequent, and ſmaller
than in our part of Italy.
Of the Sea on the Coast of PRIMORIE, its Level, and concerning
the Fiſhing.
16
f
>
In the tour which I had the honour to make with your Lord-
ſhip, I thought I faw, in feveral places, conftant and clear in-
dications of the rifing of the level of our Adriatick; of which
rifing, from the Roman to our times, both Manfredi and Zan-
drini were perfuaded, though now it is denied by fome, without
any reaſonable foundation, but rather in direct oppofition to
facts; and by others it is calculated in a lefs fatisfactory manner
than perhaps it might be. This is not a proper place to enu-
J
1
merate
[ 279 ]
•
merate the obſervations which the city of Venice furnies in
favour of this rifing of the level. But it is well known, that the
government is under the neceffity, year after year, of heighten-
ing the fquares which convey the water to the publick cifterns;
becauſe, fince the XVI century, in which most of them were
repaired, the fea roſe above the pavements at high tides.
The
waters have alſo found their way into feveral churches there,
though they certainly were built in fuch a manner as to keep the
faithful on dry ground. The large fquare of S. Mark, notwith-
ſtanding its having been raiſed more than once, is nevertheleſs
every now and then overflowed; and the waters paffing over
their former bounds, do fometimes confiderable damage
in warehouſes. Theſe manifeft effects at Venice, the deftructi-
on of our dikes, the damage done to our Valli, or large confer-
vatories for fish, and thofe of Comacchio, by the daily encroach-
ments of the fea; the evident ruin of the port of Ancona, now
no longer reparable at whatever expence, and of the adjoining
hill vifibly impaired; the fubmerfion of the city of Conca, not
far from Rimini; the foundations of Ciparum in Iftria, now un-
der water, which was demoliſhed in DCCC; and many o-
ther fimilar obfervations, are at prefent foreign to my purpoſe. I
am now only to treat of what regards the level of the fea along
the Primorian coaſt.
On all this coaft, from the mouth of the Cettina to that of
the river Narenta, the fea has viſibly loſt a part of its ancient
extent in fuperficies. The gravel, earth, and fand brought
down from the mountains by the force of torrents, have filled
up the hollows, and of a ſhore, which formerly in all probabi-
lity did not want harbours, have formed one continued bank
without any kind of harbour or bay, The fea rages nʊw a--
gainf
[ 280 ]
ganft this new ground, and goes on corroding it fo much the
more eafily as the parts are not ſtrongly connected together. And
at low water nothing is to be ſeen in thefe places, where the
worn fhore rifes perpendicular, but mountain gravel. The pro-
montories, of which there are feveral that ftretch out from the
mainland into the ſea, inſtead of being augmented or fupported,
as would be the cafe if the fea (as fome perhaps may think) car-
ried its own gravel to the ſhore, are daily diminiſhing in extent,
and becoming rocks under water ſeparated from the mountain.
To theſe general obfervations I ſhall add two particular ones
which I took notice of on the ſpot. One was ſuggeſted to me
by an infcription cut on a rock on the fhore of Xivogofchie, in
which mention is made not only of a fountain that now does
not exiſt, but alſo of a tract of ground which it watered. At
preſent the ſea beats with violence againſt the rock where the
infcription ftands, and has already, by the reiterated percuffion
of the littoral gravel, done great damage to that valuable monu-
ment, which is now not all legible. The land, the garden, or
at leaſt the walk that led to the fountain, all which, according
to the learned Signor Girolamo Zanetti, belonged to the Em-
perour Licinian, are all funk, together with the fountain, un-
der the elevated ſea.
The river Narenta, and the plain overflowed by it, in which
are buried the remains of the emporium Narana, furniſhed me
with the other obfervation, which is but too applicable to our
neighbourhood, where Adria and Ravenna underwent the ſame
fate. The waters of the Narenta, retarded in their courſe by
the oppofite increafing height of the fea, have depofited a great
number of banks of fand round about the mouth of the river,
fome
I 281 ]
Tome of which have formed low and marthy iſlands: but the
ſea revenges itſelf daily, for this apparent prolongation of land, by
advancing always further up the bed of the river, and by for-
cing the waters, thereby obſtructed in their free courſe, to ſpread
themſelves over the adjacent plain. By thefe means, that tract
of land, which was once fo fertile, and the feat of a rich and
flouriſhing city, is now a vaſt unhealthful fen, from whence a few
poor ſcattered families can ſcarcely raiſe a ſufficient fupply for a
wretched fickly life. Yet ftill it would be no very difficult un-
dertaking to reduce that plain once more to habitable and fruit-
ful ground; it would at leaſt coſt leſs trouble and expence than
thel ow Polefine, making allowance for the different circumſtances
of the fituation; and by letting things remain in their natural
ftate, the fea has forced the river to retrocede, and to overflow
the land. The lake of Scardona has perhaps alſo been a plain
watered by the Tizio, till the fea beat back the current of that
river.
The channel that divides the peninfula of Sabioncello from the
continent has all the apperance of having been in very remote
times the bed of the river Narenta. For the hill which forms
that promontory is not of vulcanic origin, fo cannot be ſuppoſed
to have rifen from under ground, or from under water, in its
preſent ſtate, but it has been manifeftly ſeparated from the con-
tinuity of the great maſs that froms the continent, as the neigh-
bouring iflands have alfo been without all doubt, Torcola, a
ſmall iſland inhabited only by ſhepherds, has a quarry of fluvia-
tile tophus, which certainly was originally produced by ſome tar-
tarous river; and in the ftructure of the ſame iſland other dif-
tinguiſhable traces ftill remain of ancient channels. The fame
thing is obfervable on the iſland of Lefina, of which I fhall take
notice in its turn.
0 0
The
[ 282 F
*
་
P
The depth of the Primorian fea is unequal, but generally con
fiderable in the middle of the channel, which divides the conti-
nent from the islands, where it féems to be above a hundred
and fifty fathom. But in the bay of Narenta, and between
Sabioncello and Lefina, the depth is much leſs, and the bottom
may be ſeen in calm weather. I happened to fee in the waters
of Cape S. George Lefina.a thing that may ſerve to give fome
idea of the increafe or growth of marine bottoms, by the accef-
fion of teftaceous and polypous productions, that form a cruft:
there, of which Donati treats in his Saggio di Storia naturale:
dell' Adriatico. That writer thought, after long fubaqueous ob→
ſervations, he might conclude,, that the waters of the ſea are
raiſed in level in fome proportion to the height produced at the
bottom by the importations of rivers,, and by. the cruft juft men-…
tioned that he had found in various places, and efpecialty under-
the deepeſt water. I ſhall forbear to examine whether, in reality.
the height of the bottom. can contribute to the height of the
waters of a fea that receives them from the ocean, from whence:
it ſhould ſeem that fo much the lefs water would come in prò--
portion as the bottom of the recipient became higher; and I will
only 'fay fomething relative to the cruft. This does not at all
feem to be produced in every place, for on fome bottoms no fuch
thing is feen, or can be extracted by any inftrument. whatever ;-
and in others there is very little. Without the Cape of S. George
already mentioned, in no great depth of water, there is a heap of
ancient urns, which must have remained in that fituation four-
teen ages at leaſt: many of theſe urns are alſo ſcattered at a dif
tance from the larger heap, two, three, and four together..
They are not quite buried; on the contrary, more than the half of
their body may be ſeen, and they might be taken up with little
trouble and expence. They are above a foot in diameter, and about:
→
i
three
ว
[ 283 ]
A
three feet high; and many of them bear the name of the maker
in good legible Roman letters. It feems probable that fome vef-
fel loaded with kitchen furniture has been fhipwrecked there.
However the revolution of fo many ages has not hid them under
the cruft of marine recrements obferved by Donati; nor does the
thickneſs of the cruft on them exceed half an inch, though they
are coated with it both within and without. That cruft, there-
fore, is certainly not fo univerfal as Donati believed, or pretend-
ed to believe; neither is it formed fo quickly as fome perhaps
imagine; and hence the rife of the bottom of the fea cannot be
very confiderable.
It is alſo probable, and agreeable to the laws
of nature, that the depofitions of rivers and torrents are lodged at
no great diſtance from their mouths, from whence enfues rather a
prolongation of continent than any obfervable change in the
bed of the ſea. Theſe prolongations of littoral ground would
produce, no doubt, as well as a quantity of additional matter at
the bottom, an elevation of the level of a lake; but it does not
-appear to me that either or both theſe can have the fame effect
on our fea, which communicates with, and is levelled by exterior
But as the rife of the level fince the times of the Ro-
mans is an indifputable fact, of which, befides thofe mentioned
by me, Donati has given many proofs, we feem to be under a
neceffity of attributing it to fome greater and more univerfal
cauſe. The fubfidence of the earth, by which fome ingenious
men have endeavoured to explain this phenomenon, does not fuit
well enough with places of a marshy ground, and thoſe of rocky
bottoms, to admit of equal effects.
And it would be very dif-
ficult to reconcile this hypothefis to Venice, for example, if it
muſt be ſuppoſed that all the buildings fubfide equally, though
not all of the fame date, nor built on the fame kind of founda-
tion.
waters.
002
I know
[184]
I know not the manner of action of the fea around your iſland
in parts at a diftance from the mouths of rivers, or torrents,.
from which it does not feem reafonable to draw any conclufion,,
becauſe the extent of the land is too vifibly partial.. But I know
that in the Baltic, if we believe the teftimony of Celfius, Dalin,,
and the celebrated Linnæus, the dry land is expanded, and the
ſea retires, manifeftly ſubſiding in its level; though by a ſtrange.
fatality, the theologifts of the north chofe to interfere in this bu-.
finefs (and yet they fpeak ill of ours for meddling with fuch mat--
ters) and made ſo much noife in contradicting what the above-
mentioned obfervers had afferted, that one knows not what to be--
lieve. But I have fuffered myſelf to ſtray far enough from the:
Primorie without thinking of it;. let us therefore leave thoſe gen-
tlemen to diſpute as long as they pleafe, and we will return to:
our waters.
The fishing of fardelle and mackrel, is the moſt plentiful of
any on the coaſt of the Primorie. They catch theſe fiſh in the.
dark nights, and decoy them by means of lighted boats, which
carrying at the prow, bundles of burning juniper or pine,, and.
rowing towards the fhore, great number of fiſh follow them into.
the nets. Each of theſe nets, which are called da tratta, re-.
quire three boats; one larger, that carries the tratta, and two.
others furniſhed with faggots, by the light of which the fiſh are.
enticed into the nets. Every tratta has thirteen men, who be-
come good feamen after a few years of that exercife, whereby.
they are often expofed to combat with fudden ftorms, or to over-
come, by the force of oars, the obftinacy of calms, currents, and
contrary winds. In former times, the art of fiſhing flouriſhed in
Dalmatia; but ever fince the produce of it has been, through
private intereft, delegated to ftrangers, it is on the decline.
Among
[ E
285 ]
Among other impediments to the propagation of the fiſhing, the
ſcarcity and price of faggots is become one; for as they, exclu-
fively, make uſe of juniper and pine to illuminate their boats,
theſe two kinds of wood are now almost totally exterminated
from the littoral mountains, and ſmall iſlands. An eaſy remedy
might be found for this inconvenience, by ſubſtituting a well
contrived lantern, like thoſe uſed by the French fiſhermen in the
Mediterranean, who alſo fiſh for ſardelle and mackrel in the night.
This remedy would fave no inconfiderable part of the expence
neceffary for a tratta, and fewer hands would alſo be required;
a material article in a country fo thinly peopled as Dalmatia.
The ſeaſon of fishing for fardelle and mackrel begins early in
the ſpring, and continues all fummer, and a good part of the
autumn, excepting a few nights before and after full moon,
which are too light. The fiſhermen pretend to have obferved,.
that the fhoals of both the above-mentioned fish come from the
middle of the gulph, and loſe themſelves in the channel of Pri-
morie ſeeking pafture. They alfo add, that the food of which
they are particularly fond, is certain kinds of the ortica marina,.
called by them klobuchi, or little hats, which drove by the wind,.
come floating to the fhore: the mackrel and fardelle purſue them.
greedily, fhewing particular eagerness to feed on thefe and other
congenerous gelatinous animals, of which a great variety is often
found in the nets. But it is very difficult to obferve them, be-
cauſe, when out of the water, they are eaſily diſcompoſed or
diffolved. Theſe emigrating fiſhes feed alſo on an infect called.
morſka buba, or fea flea, which refembles this onifcus affillus of Lin-
næus, and ſwims about in fwarms, as does a fpecies of fcolopen-
dra, little more than an inch and a half long, known by the.
fiſhermen by the general denomination of giftine, or worms,.
and
[ 286 ]
and fometimes by that of gliſtine fonoghe, or worms with a hum-
dred feet. Theſe poor infects in the night time, when the wea-
ther is calm, diſplay a very bright filver light, which probably
is the cauſe of their deſtruction. I have fometimes beheld them
with great pleaſure moving about in fhallow water in the dark
nights of fummer.
Befides the two kinds of fishing mentioned, and the tratta,
or drag nes, they uſe other nets for catching the ghirize, a ſmall
fiſh of little value, and uſed by the poor people only for food,
or by the fiſhers of muggini for bait. The ghirize fiſhing con-
tinues almoſt all the year; but that of the muggini, only during
the autumn on the coaft of Primorie. Thofe fifhes, in great
rains or boreal winds, fwim in fhoals about the mouth of the
river Narenta, where they meet for copulation. The Primorians
fish for the muggini with one boat and nine men, by day light;
two fentinels are placed on fome eminence on the ſhore, to ob-
ferve, by the motion of the water, from what part the fhoals
come, and to advertiſe the people in the boat, who dexterously
throw their net in the proper fituation and moment. This fiſh-
ing, though of ſhort duration, is generally fuccefsful, and fre-
quently the boats return home quite full, in a few hours. The
Primorians generally open and falt the muggini, as the cuſtom
is at Comacchio; but the fiſh is larger in Dalmatias and at
Macarſka particularly, they extract the ſpawn, which being
dried in the fun, keeps long, and is a delicious morfel. They
are, by nice palates, reckoned even more delicate than thoſe of
Greece, though not fo large.
It is not eaſy to calculate the quantity of falted fiſh circulated an-
nually by the Primorians; that buſineſs being on a very bad foot-
ing
[ 287 ]
ing over all Dalmatia, as it is alſo in other places where the con-
fequences of fiſhing are much more worthy of confideration. It
is, certain that the inhabitants of Macarfka, though in reward
of their ſpontaneous dedition they enjoy feveral privileges in
felling their products at Venice, generally content themſelves to
fell their ſalt fiſh to the ſubjects of other ftates. They fay, they
have been taught by experience, and find that it turns more to
their account, to treat with merchants of the Neapolitan or Papal
ftates, than with ours. They alſo fay, that within theſe laſt
twenty years, the fiſhing is greatly diminiſhed, and that the
profits are now hardly equal to the charges. I can scarcely be-
lieve however, that a real ſcarcity of fiſh is the cauſe of this, or
that they do not come in equal plenty as formerly, to feek for
food in the channel of Primorie; though that is not at all im-
poffible, and may perhaps be owing to the deterioration of the
ground or bottom near the ſhore, by the quantity of earth of
diſagreeable tafte, and of barren gravel brought down by the
waters from the mountains ftript of woods. Yet it feems more
probable, that the general and progreffive decay of population in
Dalmatia, is the principal caufe of the decline of the fifhing.
Neceffity. obliges them to diminiſh, year after year, the number
of fishing boats, and that, of courfe, leffens the number of bold
fiſhermen who have courage to beat the ſea, and to, catch the
fiſh even in cloudy nights, as they uſed to do formerly. It would
be not only uſeful, but neceffary to promote this buſineſs by
proper encouragements, and thereby to increaſe the number of
fiſhers to fuch a degree, as to incommode one another. The na-
tional marine would gain much by ſuch a plan, beſides the aug-
mentation of the product, and the advantages of trade that might.
be derived from it. Your nation, my Lord, affords a grand ex-
ample of the importance of fiſhing to a maritime power.
It
Back A
15.
t
1
[ 288 ]
is true, that in the Adriatick we have no whales to encounter,
nor the immenfe ſhoals of polar fiſhes that fill the northern ſeas;
but it is alſo true, that our navigation is not uſually directed to
America, nor to China; and therefore a fiſherman accustomed
to beat our ſea in all weathers, becomes an excellent mariner for
all our occafions.
ι
垂
​The common fiſhes of thoſe waters which wander alone, or at
leaft not in fhoals, fuch as dentici congri, orate, and others, are
alfo caught by night, with illuminated boats; and the Primo-
rians are wonderfully dexterous in ftriking them with the fofcina,
which is a long wooden lance, armed at the end with a fort of
iron comb, of which the teeth are made after the manner of a
fish hook. The tonni palamide, lizze, ſword fiſh, and goffi, are
alſo frequently ſeen at the tables of Macaríka.
र
L
+
The dolphins, and turfioni, which are of the fame genus, wan-
der with full liberty in thofe waters, as no body hitherto has
thought of drawing advantage from this ſmall fpecies of the
cetacei of our fea. The Dalmatian fiſhers have a kind of friend-
ſhip and gratitude to the dolphins, giving them the merit of
chafing the fish towards the illuminated boats, whither they are
furniſhed with nets or the fofcina ; and in the laſt caſe, the fiſher-
men do not fail to throw fome large fiſh over-board to the dol-
phin, as if to ſhare the booty with him. If I had had time and
opportunity, I would have endeavoured to convince fome fiſher-
men, leſs unreaſonable than the reft, of the damage that theſe
voracious animals actually do to the fiſhing, and of the advan-
tage that might be derived from falting their fleſh, and melt-
ing their fat into oil.
The
[ 289 ]
The Phocæ rarely appear in the channel of Primorie, though
they are frequently feen near the mouth of the Narenta. They
love the grounds that are interrupted by rocks and fmall iſlands,
on which they go often out of the water to enjoy the open air;
and hence they are frequently met with on the coaſts of Iftria,
and among the iſlands of the Quarnaro.
The inhabitants of the fea coaft attribute to this amphibious
animal a great propenfity for grapes, and poſitively affirm, that
it uſes to land in the night time, and eat the bunches of grapes
from the vines in the proper teafon. There are three forts of
poiſonous or hurtful fish, that are often found in the fishing
nets; the colombo, or dove-fiſh, called in Sclavonian xutugha, or
xutizza, on account of its yellowish colour; it is the paftinaca
marina, the park, or fpider, and the carpena, or fcorpion fish.
The poiſon of theſe fiſhes lies in the puncture of a ſharp pointed
bone on their backs, and which the fishermen fhun with great
care. But if, notwithſtanding their precautions, they happen
to be pricked, they apply, for the wound of the Scarpena, the
'gall of the animal itſelf.; and for that of the pauk, and xutizza,
the white gall (as they call it) of the cuttle fish, in their dialect
lighgna, or oligagn, almoft according to the Latin. But the beſt
remedy of all is, a ftrait bandage on the part offended, and an
incifion by which the poifoned blood runs out.
The torpedo
is very common in thoſe parts, and is called Trnak; the numb-
nefs of the foot or hand, occafioned by touching it, does not uſe
to continue long, or to have any confequence.
The ſhell fish of this fea form no remarkable article either in
regard to variety or beauty. The Pinne, which in fome places
of a muddy bottom grow to the length of two feet, give a bad
kind
P P
}
1
[` 200 ]
~
་
Kind of peart of a leaden colour, and that kind of filk of which
your Lordship has ſeen ſome manufactured in Dalmatia. Yet a
naturaliſt, who choſe to employ himſelf entirely in the ſtudy of
fhell fift, and Zoophytes, would find ample provifion for his
curiofity in the bottom of the Adriatick, and might collect tỏ- ·
gether a great number of good obfervations, in which, to ſpeak:
far. The
plainly, Marfigli and Donati did not proceed very far.
ftoney and woody labours of the Polypi are certainly very nume-
rous and various in thefe fubaqueous depths, and now and then s
fome pieces of Madrepores and coral are found in them.. The
coral fiſhing has been for fome years paft on the decline, per--
haps through negligence, on account of a ſeries of unfavoura-
ble combinations that have difcouraged thoſe who farm it.
}
Concerning the Villages along the Shore to the east and west of
MACARSKA.
At the little village of Brella, which ſtands on a height by.
the fea fide, near the rullia, which is probably the Piguntium ·
of the ancients, and the Berullia of Porphyrogenitus, the terri-
tory of Macarfka begins. The fmall extent of ground, that lies,
between the foot of the mountain and the fea, forming a narrow-
ftripe along the fhore, and alfo the contiguous hills, are very ill:
cultivated, the greateſt part is left for paſture, though it might
be employed to much greater advantage by planting vines. It
is true, the nakedness of the mountain above it. juftifies, in:
ſome meaſure, this neglect of the littoral ground. Yet not-
withſtanding the too frequent blafts of the Borea, all the Ma-
carfkan Primarie bears olives, vines, and other delicate fruits
very well; and fome of the laſt are now beginning to be intro-
duced after the example of the Poglizani, who cultivate them
1
in..
t. 291 1
}
+
f
+
in their district, and form an article of trade, though they have,
not yet acquired the knowledge of meliorating the fpecies by
means of grafts. They however have excellent Maraſche, a
kind of cherry, the nut of which gives a particular flavour to
the fpirituous liquor known by the name of Maraschino, of
which a great quantity is diftilled in Dalmatia, and eſpecially at
Zara by the Signori Carſeniga.
!
2
Next to the olive and vine, the fig and almond trees yield
the moſt confiderable produce in that diſtrict. The culture of
the two firſt kinds is not generally well underſtood there; for in
one ſmall field they uſe to plant, without any order, olives,
figs, and almonds, among the vines; theſe laſt are planted at the
diſtance of two feet one from the other, and the fprigs are left
to fpread on the ground without any fupport. The yearly pro-
⚫duce of the vines does not amount, one year with another, to
above four per cent. the neceffary charges deducted. The
The age of
the vine does not exceed thirty years; but the affemblage of ſo
many trees, which draw their nourishment from the fame
ground, cauſes it to decline much fooner; and fo much the
more, becauſe it gets no manure, in confequence of the favage
method of thoſe people of never houſeing their cattle, and of the
ſcarcity of fodder. When the vines are exhauſted, it does not
anfwer to plant new ones under the fhade; nor, on the other
hand, does it turn to account to root out the fruit trees. The
Primorians, in this cafe, ufually fow the land, and the time and
·labour they employ is generally ill repaid by the crop. Their
plows are fuited to the ſmallneſs of their oxen, and go to very
little depth in the ground. This ignorance in agriculture is
neral, lefs or more, over all the province, and hence the peo-
ple, after much hard labour, is reduced to live fome months
Pp 2
17
ge-
every
[ 292 ]
L
every year on wild roots, for want of other provifion All the
villages of the Primorie are well fituated, and both the air and
water are excellent.. Baßt, which is built on a hill, has its was
ter from a ſpring near the fea, which gives the name of Bafka-
voda to a little group of cottages on the fhore.. About this fpot
inferiptions, and other ftones cut in ancient times are dug up.
A pilafter that had been found there lately furnished me with
matter for obfervation. It is of calcareous ftone compofed. of
marine fragments especially of Petrobrii,, and, bones or ſhells of
Echini petrified; a bituminous fluor, that probably infinuated
itfelf before the ftone became hard, has given it a dark grey, co-
lour. Thoſe who dug up the pilafter, on ftriking againſt it with
their fpades, felt a ftrong, finell of pitch;. and hence, they·
brought me to ſee it as a curiofity. I caufed feveral splinters of
it to be knocked off, and they fent out a very ſtrong, fmell, nay:
they actually, exhale ftill when I rub the one against the other.
>
}
1
!
The hills of Baft flank the roots of the mountain Biocova,
and extend all along behind the town of Macarfka, always clofe
to the mountain. On thefe hills ftand the hamlets of Velo berdo,
Macar, and Cotefina, from the two laft of which fmall ftreams.
of good water run down, and, after a fhort courſe, fall into the
fea. The maps of Dalmatia confound all the fituations here-
abouts, and corrupt the names of places fo ftrangely, that it
would be tedious to take notice of them in detail; your Lord,
ſhip may more eafily, compare them with my topographical map,
rectified, I may fay, foot by foot along all that ſhore.
In the fmall village of Tucepi, by the fea fide, is fituated the
pleaſant villa of the Abbè Count Grubbifich, a learned, uſeful
and hofpitable philofopher, whofe untimely death is juſtly la-
mented
[293]
S
mented by all who knew him. He had formed the deſign of
reforming, by his own example, the ill underſtood huſbandry of
the Primorians; and would certainly have fucceeded had lie en-
joyed a length of life proportioned to his merit. Count Grub-
bifich began by ſtudying the climate of the country, and the na-
ture of the land; and in confequence of long and reafoned ob-
ſervations had determined on a new plan of cultivation. The
vines of his poffeffions at Tucepi, on the fides of the hills, were
raiſed three feet from the ground, and faſtened to ſmall poles
planted longitudinally,, like hedges, tranfverfe to the reigning.
wind, which is the great impediment to high plantations in thoſe
parts. Convenient ſpaces were left between the rows for ſowing
corn, in order to draw two products at once from the fame
ground without exhaufting it. The grapes ripened better, were
in greater plenty, and of a more perfect quality; and the vines,
Being pruned after the manner of thofe on the hills of Italy,
promiſed a longer duration. The fruit and mulberry trees were
difpofed round the cultivated fields, fo as not to hurt the corn or
vines by their fhide. He planted the olives by the fides of the
paths without the fields, having obferved that they fucceed better
there than when furrounded by other trees.. The dry walls by
which the land of Tucepi is fuſtained reſemble the beſt contrived
in Tuscany, or the Vicentine territory, from whence' alfo the
Abbe Count had taken his plough ſuited to the hills, with four.
wheels, and drawn.by four oxen; very different from the manner
the Primorians, who only. fcratch the earth with a very light
plough without wheels, and drawn by two little animals.
"
$
>
}
To fecure his experiments against all exception, he had choſen.
a fituation much expofed to the wind, fubject to other difad-
vantages of climate, and of an untoward foil; knowing very
}
well:
}
I 294 I
1
}
well that the fuccefs of trials made in places near the water, co-
vered from the winds, and of a manageable ſoil, is attributed to
thefe favourable circumftances, and not to the ſkill of the culti
vator. My judicious friend was defirous that Agriculture ſhould
be treated by the poffeffors of land, in the way of fact and ex-
perience, and not by deductions, conjectures, and compilations
of thoſe who have not the practical part before their eyes; hence
he did not much eſteem periodical papers that treat on this fub-
ject; and difregarded all experiments, unleſs when made in the
open fields. According to his mode of thinking, as Alpine
plants tranſported into a botanical garden ought not, for medi-
cinal uſes, to be preferred to thofe gathered on the mountains;
fo experiments made on lands inclofed, prepared and watered,
are of little confequence, unleſs they fucceed in large open
fields, or on hilly ground.
{
?
This kind of earth, which
The hills of Primorie are partly rocky, and partly cultivable,
yet there is need of much induſtry and fatigue to reduce theſe
laſt into culture. Befides the cretaceous and clayey lands that
are capable of improvement, there are certain ftoney ftrata of the
fame nature, which being dug up, and expofed to the action
of the fun and rain for fometime, become a very good foil for
vines, but unfit for olives or grain.
moulders into very ſmall rhomboidal parts, is called Bigar by
the Primorians. The cretaceous earth of a blueish colour is
fometimes mixed with very minute fand of torrents, or with a
whitish earth proceeding from the diffolution of calcareous mar-
ble; in which caſe it bears a good crop of corn if not ſcorched
by too dry a fummer. The ftone most common in theſe hills
is the whetstone, called Brufniza by the inhabitants, in which
fometimes fragments of marine bodies are difcovered, and fome-
times
[ 295 ]
}
a-
times none. The quality of this ſtone is obfervable, it being,
for the moſt part, rufty without, and almoſt always of a blue
colour within; thofe who build on the brink of the ſea, chufe
it for the foundation before all others. There are alſo ſome ſtrata
of Alberefe, a fort of limeſtone, and various kinds of marble
mong which is a mafs of beautiful red Breccia on the lands of
Count Grubbifich. In afcending the beds of the torrents near
the pleaſant villa where I was lodged, among the banks of my
good friend, I collected feveral varieties of aggregate ftones..
The clefts made by thefe eventual waters are not deep enough
to give any precife idea of the internal ftructure of the hills,
their beds being generally flanked by matter brought down in
ancient times from the mountain, before the torrents were re-
ftrained by men within a fixed courfe.. Near the church of the
Madonna di Tucepi I collected a very curious fpecies of white
marble all tinged with red ferpentine lines running almoſt all:
regularly in the fame direction..
Near that country church, which is furrounded by its facredi
wood, there are many ancient Sclavonic fepulchres, without
any infcription, but with various baff-reliefs. The tomb ftone
of one of thefe has a warriour ftrangely clad. On his head is.
a fort of cap, and above that is raiſed a very ſharp cone; from
which ornament perhaps the tradition is derived, that under this
ftone the bowels of a Doge of Venice, who died in war againſt
the Narentines, were buried. This Doge might have been Pie--
tro Candiano, who died in an expedition againſt the Narentines
near a place called Miculo. But the tombstone, of which I
took a drawing for curiofity, appears to be Sclavonic, and the
harp pointed cap is alfo Sclavonic, as may be feen in the feal
of
[296]
outd
of a Diploma of King Dabifcia, which ought to be among the
papers of my deceaſed friend.
gokitas man
f
ནཱ༔ 」
{
* RCALE A'*
a
*
Infcriptions, both Roman, and Greek, have been found near
the village of Tucepi, but they have been transported to Italy.
It is probable that, in the district called Javorae, the Lauren
tum of Procopius was fituated, as the fignification of both
words indicates equally a place planted with laurels, Natural .
caverns are very common in theſe parts, and, almoſt in every
village, fome of them are fortified with walls, and fometimes
with a kind of ſmall canles of barbarous ages and architecture,
It is probable that in former times they ferved as retiring, placesT
to pirates, as they afterwards did for refuge to the inhabitants,
againft the robberies of the Ufocchi.
baries of the Ufocchi wa weled
ક
DI
17
2
5
**
14
}
Az [296 1
โ
"veword d
} •༣ {
948.
21 21013 UO
31A
i
9)¶ wolad
soì org
wool prav zi lo
1
0 1.5
Three fubmarine fprings are to be feen near the shore of Tuz
cepi, which no doubt are fupplied with water, either by the
large refervoirs on the other fide of the mountain, on by fome
of thofe rivers, which, not finding their way to the fea, finka w
ford to Dpedoclai
into the abyffes. One of thefe fprings is called Smerdaglia,
î. é, Stinking, on account of the fetid fmell, which, as the inha-
bitants fay, it ufes to ſend out. The lands in the neighbou
signora en vad auf i MOGI 2
hood are called. Pakline, or places abounding with pitch. They
-૧/૩, I21) Alk acn07q
fay that the ill fmell of this fpring is not conftant, and we sik
not much by taking their word for it. This is certainly facts -
that the ſpring Smerdagliac is not always perceived to bubble up
ſetting in motion the furface of the fea it fometimes remains
quiet whole day's frequently appears and difappears more than
popismo 35
sabailai asmox & 951,01.02.
oned in one al ve Pears, more than
cus on the other fide of the
mitia the fubterranean windings through which thofe
copious rains on
another
and
vato bas sidstabilnos 21 1245)
mountain,
sds
beiniogopin
waters mult and their way to the ts, are netbars the cauſes
as
find fea,
kupq, jadi ni gojil 197 215 (10)ỒN
cwd galyquo illiw listým iñəinoɔ of
of
this
ainevahe
[ 297 ]
<
}
-
{
this inconftancy: and the bituminous fmell may perhaps proceed
'from fome fubterraneous fire, or fermentation, fometimes more
and fometimes lefs violent.
A
·
Not far diftant from Tucepi, the village of Podgora is fituated
on an eminence, and commands a very beautiful tract of littoral
country, the most fertile, and beft cultivated in thofe parts.
The fmall promontory of Dracevaz, that ſtretches into the fea
under this village, merits obfervation. The upper ftrata that
form it, are of breccia, and the lower, which are of whetstone,
have veins.compofed of cubick pieces, and placed like a wall.
Two of theſe walls jut out encloſing a kind of platform of earth
in the middle; the order of the cubick pieces is inclined towards
the fea. Below Podgora a little brook arifes, which, at the end
of its very fhort courfe, turns the mills of Jarechine. Perhaps,
from this brook, incorrectly marked in fome chorographical map,
Cantelius was induced to place, between Podgora and Drafnize,
a river defcending from the neighbourhood of Imoki, from
whence it is quite impoffible that the waters could pass over the
mountain Biocova. It is very probable however, that from
thence proceeds the fubmarine fpring called Vrugliza, or Mala
Vrullia, which fhews.itfelf in the bay near Drafnize. It rifes
very briſkly at the foot of a ſteep part of the hill, from the bot-
tom of the ſea, which, in that place, is confiderable, and draws
a great number of fiſh to it.
1
•
}
I went to Drafmize to fee a Roman infcription that ought to
be there, but was difappointed by the uncivil Curate of the
place, who kept it concealed, for the ufual caufes of ſuſpicion
and ignorance, which are very ſtrong in that country againſt
trangers. I was obliged to content myſelf with copying two
Sclavonic
[ 298 I
Sclavonic infcriptions, the one for the fingularity of fome of the
characters, and the other becauſe it indicates the time when the:
Herceg Steffano paffed through that country.
1
E
In the Primarie they celebrate the virtues of a finall ſpring of
water that iſſues from a high rock not far from the church of
Drafnize, and falls into the fea after running down the rock.
They fay it is as light and perfect as the water of Nocera; and
it has been kept in flaſks for many years without fpoiling. The
inhabitants make frequent and fucceſsful uſe of it in their fim--
ple medicine. It certainly has the qualities which Hippocrates
prefcribes, for it is καροτατη, και γλυκώτατη, και λεπτότατης, και
λæμπporaт.. It would be well to compare thoſe waters fogé
λαμπροτάτη.
ther, with more precifion, by way of analyfis,. and by repeated
trials in our hofpitals; fince even the article of 'Nocera water
draws no inconfiderable fum of money out of the ftate.
true, that the very name of water of Dalmatia would at fifft:
have no agreeable found in the ears of people of faſhion, but.
the patronage of two or three phyficians in vogue might Toon:
overcome that prejudice.
very
(~
}
t
It is.
Near that fpring I collected feveral' adventitious pieces of
fine ftatuary marble, évidently detached from fuperior
ſtrata at no great diftance from the fea, and a beautiful
red marble, very compact, of a fine grain, and worthy to
be employed in any ornament of the nobleft buildings. If
the travelling naturalift was always furnished with the necef--
fary means of bringing back to his own country oftenfible proofs
#
م
上
​1
ba o cox
*
of
14
•* Calcareus micans, ruber. Waller, § 4.2 and alſo ·
Cj
Calcareus æquabilis, incarnatus. Waller. §. 41. 1 Că.
4
J
[ 299 ] .
of the uſefulneſs of his obfervations, I fhould have returned to
Venice with flabs, or pieces of the fineſt littoral marble, enough
to make the artifts in love with the productiens of that kind
within our own ftate. I would alfo have brought a good quan-
tity of the water of Drafnize ſecured in proper veffels, that our
learned and fincere phyficians might have made the requifite ex-
amination and trials. But it not being poffible, with private
fupport, to do all that might be done, I was obliged to content
myfelf with indicating the uſeful things I difcovered, leaving
the reft to time and fortunate accidents.
*
;
Not far from the fpring of Drafnize there is a chapel dedicat-
ed to St. Rocco, where an ancient baff-relief was honoured for
many years, till, not long fince, it was fent to Venice. It re-
prefented a Satyr half covered with a mantle of goats fki, with
a ftaff in his hand, and his dog near him; fome part of his body
appears as of a keeper of gardens. An iron grate placed before
it defended it from too profane hands, but did not hinder the
good women and girls of the neighbourhood from expreffing
their devotion to their St. Rocco. This improper object of ſu-
perſtition was taken out of its niche in the night time; and the
next day, there was almost an infurrection among the people of
Drafnize, and they could hardly be kept within bounds, when
they were told, that their pretended faint was carried away by
the command of a respectable court.
I
*
I
} =
Almoſt all the villages of Primorie, have ſprings of good water,
and feveral of them are in great repute for their falubrity. This
title could not have been denied to the fpring of Xivogofchie, in
the praiſe of which two epigrams, taken notice of before, are
engraved on the rock aboye the fea; one of which calls the wa-
}
1
Qq 2
ter
C
300
1
3
}
03 a 115 do.
f
y
2.slato0.odi 16
10
A
ter falubrious; but now there is no fpring there. There is fel
21 Ride of
a perennial ſpring at the village, further back on the
O STABUNGANOJ
There is allo
the hill, near the convent of Francifian friars.
2 MOTOS, MAR 21 976 1810) bojog89.2903in adı to
a fpring of water at Dervinich, where a caftle ftood in old times,
of which the ruinous walks are ftill to be feen, and where Count'
Grubbifich copied an ancient Sclavonic infcription in very neat
Cirillian characters. Not far from this caftle, to the left of the
road; on the mountain, there ſtands a large fepulchral ſtone,,
fet on a proportionable, bafe, adorned all round with gothic mo-.
Vodcmolu eda bord
dillons, and in the middle is a baff-relief, with feveral figures
ill defigned, and, among others, a warriour killing a wild beart..
from ano de "
This iſolated tomb, contrary to the Sclavonic cultom, belongs
2015 HWF
to the ancient family of Coftagnich, now fettled at Macarika
ther
Little more than a mile from Bervenich lies Zaostrog,
Px5wτlα of Porphyrogenitus, where two Roman infcriptions aret:
to be feen in the church of S: Barbara. On the brink of ther
ſea ſtands a convent of Francifcam friars,
ing their church, have employed a very great quantity of ancients
monumentalftones, and taken care to efface all the characters..
They collected them in the neighbourhood, and particularly.
from the ruins of Narenta; and who knows how many valuabler
memorials are deftroyed through their fanaticiſm Along the
ſhore of Zaostrog, which is without any harbour, and expoſed
to all winds, I collected pieces of cretaceous fluviatile Stalactites,
with impreffions of alder leaves, very like that found near Rome:
on the fide of Monte Pincio, where, in other times, perhaps, the
Tiber run. There are likewife among the gravel thrown back
by the fea, though originally brought down by the mountain
torrents, adventitious pieces of a bituminous fciffile ftone, of thin
parallel lamina, of a ſmooth grain, and a very fetid fmell on
་
tsu ont
who lately, in build-
radio duiw
}
✔
being
I. 301 ].
t
aradi
Shoant do
Being rubbed, which correfponds exactly to the fwine ftons of
the naturaliſts,* and does not ill agree with the bitumen marmore-
um fætidum compactum of Linnæus." The exterior fuserfiles
of the pieces expofed to the air is a coloured, "and agrees
Dacofta's difcription, but the interior part is black. Along the
ſame ſhore I collected petrified numali.uz anoniz
# wages
cdi?
ASTRAS CL
F
1941
کا
of pot. B
From Zaostrog, to the mouth of the river Narenta, at the foot
of the mountain, are the hamlets of Brift and Lapcagn and be-
hind the promontory, within land, the lake of Bachina ought to
be added in the beſt maps. The mountains, that furround this
Ola con
C
x7
are more rough and ftoney, than the rest of Primorie, yet, not-
withstanding, they were in old times better inhabited than they
are at prefent. The ruinous caſtle of Gradak, and the burying
EXCITY
place of Slavinaz, where probably the Labienizar of Porphyroge-
nitus ftood, confirm this. They fay that the Backinſko Blato,
that is, the marshy lake of Bachina, beſides eels, which it has in
common with other lakes of the country, contains fiſh peculiar to
itfelf but it would be needful to fill there more than once to
Ma of an nude baa Jenoil fst zemenom
afcertain the fact.
bodhooddę su edt a. rat betaling yadT
364 adw bas
Tom
of the Whirpools of CacCORICH, the Lakes of RASTOK, JEZERO,
Of
Day whak
Faloqes f, and DESNA, and the River TREBISATS elshoman
slogesh and DESNA, aids tops to G
1000W et
T
pret
fet out from the convent of Zafrog to fee the temporary
Sony Mc0:
lake of Raftok, from which I had read in feveral geographers
also that
you
21 qqj159 છ
17.Mader lant I u M to abit adi co
{
¿ma nwords kirg on gum, showadil on 309/T
THOM
Calcarius fiffilis, unicoler, fufcus, Wally
nur edir
04) 1
"Schiftus fufco cinereus, lapis fætidus dictus, Dacofta 170, 95
Lapis fuilli particulis granulatis (rather impalpabilibus) Cronft. 23+
SoloBitumen marmoreum, fetidum, compactum, Linn,
*
[ 302 ]
}
that the river Norin rifes, though the inhabitants of Primorje
contradict that affertion. I took the road of Dervenich, to pafs
over the mountain Biocova on horfeback; but it was not poffible
for me to purſue the journey fo much at my eaſe. The paths of
the higheſt part of the mountain run often between craggy maſſes,
and ſometimes on the brink of a precipice. Having got over.
the
top of Biocova, I continued my route ſometimes a foot, and
ſometimes on horfeback, preceded by the guides that the courteous
Voivod Pervan of Coccorich had fent me. The road which the
Morlacchi take on foot, from Zaostrog to that inland village, is
only five ſhort miles: but they travel with wonderful dexterity,
climbing up the steepest rocks, and defcending with furprifing
agility, from rugged cliffs which feem impracticable without
wings. I fpent fix long hours in paffing the mountain by a
bridleway, and at laſt arrived at the habitation of the good Voi-
vod, who received me with fincere cordiality. This habitation
is built in the form of towers, after the Turkiſh manner: I was
lodged in a tower part, from which I paffed to dinner and fupper
in that of the family. The wife and daughter-in-law of my hoft
appeared to kiss my hand when I entered, and were ſeen no more
till the moment of my retiring from table. The young women
of the houſe placed theinfelves at the chinks of the doors, to look
at me and my draftfimen, as two ftrange animals both in dress and
manners. The venerable old man fat with us at table; and the
victuals, dreffed in the Turkish fashion, were brought in by his
fon. This Voivod is a refpectable perfon in his ſmall diftrict, and
really has talents without their having been cultivated in a
city s
in his youth he compofed inany armorous and heroick verſes.
ン
​،܂
2.
C
He talked to me of certain whirlpools, from which fome-
times, in the autumn and fpring, the water iffues with great
violence,
3
I 303 ]
violence, and in fuch abundance, that the valley of Coccorich,
which is at least three miles long, becomes converted, in the
fpace of a very few days, into a deep lake.
few days, into a deep lake. Pervan's habitation
is fituated on the back of a hill, and the defcent from it to the
bottom of the valley is confiderable; yet, notwithſtanding this
elevation, the water rofe fuddenly, in one night, to ſuch an extra-
ordinary height, that it gained the fecond ftory of the tower
where the good old man lay; and it was with difficulty that he
could get out on the other fide.. I went to fee one or two of
theſe whirlpools, which all reſemble one another. The brufſh-
wood that ſurrounds them, is covered with moſs, and black con-
ferva, which gives it a melancholy look. The largeſt whirlpool
is twenty feet in diameter at the top, and a hundred and twenty
deep. In the bottom there is always water; and fome years-
ago both the quantity and level of it were aſcertained. They
found twelve feet water, and the level correfponded with that
of the lake of Jezero a few miles diftant. After the great rains
in' Boſſind, there whirlpools, or Jame as the Sclavonians call them,
throw up columns of water to the height of 20 feet.. In 15 days
the lake of Coccotich 'ufes to rife to its greatest height, which
fometimes exceeds the ofdinary meaſures by new rains, or the
melting of fnow in the inward parts of the country; yet in two
months time the ground becomes dry. A prodigious quantity
of fish rifes out of the bowels of the earth with theſe gigantick.
fountains; and when the water's begin to fall, the inhabitants
catch a great deal with nets adapted to the mouths of the whirl-
pools. The fmall depth of earth on the valley of Coccorich pre-
vents the air from becoming bad after the waters fink down
again..
A ſhort:
}
[ 304 1
A fhort mile from the Voivod's houfe there is a mine of P
fafphaltus identically like that of Bua. It appears that the Turks
worked it before the Venetian arms took poffeffion of that tract
of country; but it is not likely that they could draw much
profit from thence, on account of its diftance from the fea, and
the inconvenience of the road. The fubftance of the marble that
forms the exterior ſurface of the hills of Coccorich, and Vergoraz,
is alternatively breccia, in fome parts full of ceratamorphous, and
in others of lenticular bodies and nummali,
Vegoraz is a wretched fort, that, in other times, defended a
wvillage well peopled by the Turks, who notwithſtanding the in-
termediate mountain, judged it a convenient place for trade,
as being at no great diſtance from the fea; but it is now a heap
of rubbiſh, and inhabited only by a few poor families. The
fields that lie under the hill of Vergoraz are all ſubject to be over-
flowed, whereby the inhabitants are often reduced to want, and
confequently to the neceffity of robbing, or of going to work
on the Turkiſh lands. A fuperintendent adminifters juftice in
that ſmall diſtrict, and is ufually of the family of the Furiah of
Almiffa, which chiefly contributed to take the place from the
Turks.
+
At the foot of Vergoraz lies the valley of Ratok, which is
very level, and of no inconſiderable extent in length and breadth ;
the part of it, that runs in between the ridge of Vergoraz and
the craggy hills on the Ottoman confines, is traverſed by a
branch of the river Trebifat, which, inſtead of running towards
the eaſt, takes quite a different courfe, and falls in with the
roots of the mountains at a place where they form an arch.
Meeting with oppofition from them, and the gravel of an even-
tual
[ 303 ]
.
"
tual torrent, the Trebifat turns to the left, but inſtead of re-
turning to its natural courſe, it divides itfelf into feveral brán-
ches, and falls into certain whirlpools, which are open in thất
plain to receive it. At the time was there, the waters that
uſe to fill the valley of Raftok forming a temporary lake, were
all
gone; and therefore I was able to examine the river nearly
as it was actually falling into thoſe gulfs in feveral places. The
people of Vergoraz have built fences of dry walls at the mouth
of the whirlpools of Rafteks, and fitted their nets to the remain-
ing apertures to intercept the fish that otherwife would efcape
under ground. It is plain, that the ill adviſed avidity of thus
catching a few fiſh tends to diminish the mouths of thoſe drains,
and confequently retards the drying of the overflowed filids, to
the great damage of the inhabitants of the diftri&t. Whither,
and through what fubterraneous caverns, thefe ingulfed waters
of the Trebifat are conveyed, I know not; but perhaps thofe
who, fend them to produce the river Norin twenty tong miles
diftant, without even telling us that they make this journey un-
der ground, are mistaken. In like manner I find in the protego-
mena of Farlati another falſe affertion, regarding the river Lika,
which diſappears much in the ſame way as the Trebifat. That
learned author makes it fall into the fea near Carlobago; though
it is a fact that the river Lika, arifing near Graccaz, lofes itſelf
under ground, at the foot of the mountain Morlacca, in the valley
of Cozigne, a day's journey diftant from the fea; and the ſtream
Gaſchiza, or Guſchiza, after paffing under Ottacaz, falls into the
gulfs at Suizza. It is true, they fay, that fome wooden veffels,
carried away by the river Suizza, were found in the fea near
the village of S. Giorgio, on the channel of the Morlacca, where
there are ſubmarine fprings; and they will alfo have it, that the
fubmarine Springs near Starigrad proceed from the ingulfed river
Likes but notwithstanding all this, a geographer ought not to
mark the mouths of rivers in fuch places. Contelius alfo, ac-
cording
A
Rr
[ 306 ]
cording to this method, might be in the right to put the
mouths of two rivers proceeding from the lakes of Prolofar, and
Imoſki, where the two Vrulie are feen in the fea; though be-
tween the lakes and the Vrullie, there are twenty miles of inter-
mediate mountains.
}
The chain of craggy hills of Vorgoraz reaches to the eastward
as far as the fources of the Norin, and divides the Turkish terri-
tory of Gliubuſki from the lakes of Jezero, Jeferaz, Defna, and
Bachinsko Blato. The first of the fe, which I vifited, is above
ten miles in length, and has ſeveral little iſlands and rocks co-
vered with wood, that afford a pleaſant profpect when beheld
from the tops of the hills. All the circumference of Jezero is
mountainous; 1 faw it from Prologh, where I went to copy
fome Sclavonic infcriptions. The water of this lake, called Jezero
by way of excellence, as being the largeſt in thofe parts, is
very pure and limpid. In fome
In fome parts of it the ruins of houfes
are ſeen at the bottom; which adds fome credit to what the in-
habitants of the neighbourhood relate, that, in former times,
the lake was cultivated fields, and the waters funk in gulfs, or
fubterraneous Jame, which were filled up by the Turks on their
abandoning the country. Yet there ſtill remains one outlet-to-
wards the 1outh, where it falls into the cavern of Czernivir; andễ
as the people of the country ſay, after running two miles under-
ground, forms the lake of Defna, then it falls into the Canal-
nero, which mixes with the river Narenta at two miles diſtance-
from the fea. The lake of Jezero is however fometimes dry,、
and fhews a rich foil to the Morlack huſbandmen, who take ad-
vantage of the juncture as well as they can; and the fame lucky
circumftance fometimes happens in the valley of Raftok. Jefe.
**
[ 307 ]
raz is a ſmall lake, and remains dry almoft every year, unleſs
when there happen extraordinary falls of rain.
$
4
The country that lies between Vergorax, the Narentine marth-
es, and the ſea, generally ſpeaking, is little adapted to cul-
ture, being alternatively covered with water, and ftoney hills:
but the fields watered by the Trebifat, beyond our confines, are
of a very different nature. Yet, through the careleffnefs of the
Turks, they are fuffered, for the moſt part, to lie under water;
for the river has no kind of banks, and is even fuffered in feveral
places to be impeded in its courſe in the middle of the plain.
The waters of the Trebifat are tartarous, and in places, where
it dilates itſelf, the upper ftratum of the ground is often com-
poſed of pieces of ſtraws, herbs, and Nerites, coated with a cre-
taceous concretion. I collected fome for curiofity while my
guides were at dinner.
On the fide of this river are large tracts
covered with brushwood and brambles, through the middle of
which the ancient military road lay, that maintained the com-
munication between Salona and Narona. I went down to the
military way to examine fome old Sclavonic monuments in a bu-
rying place that lies near it; but could not look for inſcriptions,
becauſe the buſhes grew too thick, and, befides, my guides
would not affure me that the Turks, if they happened to meet
us, would look on my curioſity without fufpicion. The great-
part of the tombs are enormous pieces of marble, like thoſe
on which I had the honour to dine with your Lordship and our
numerous company of good Morlacchi, not far from the fources
of the Cettina. But the baff-reliefs of the burying place in the
wood, on the banks of the Trebifat, are much more curious
than thoſe of Vrilo-Cettina.
est
Rr 2
of
[ 308 ]
Of the Rivers NORIN and NARENTA, and of the Plain overflow-
ed by them.
After having made a very fatiguing day's journey, I found
myſelf, towards the evening, in a corner of the Venetian confines.
that
runs between the rugged marble hills, at the foot of which
the river Norin rifes, and is left entirely to itſelf from its very
fource; hence a vast tract of land is overflowed by it, and en-
cumbered with reeds, willows, and wild elders. A finall ſpace
of ground only remains dry between the roots of the hills and
the marſh, at a place called Prud, and that is all covered with
pieces of ancient hewn ftones, fragments of infcriptions, co--
lumns, and capitals, and bafs-reliefs of the beſt age, worn and.
deformed by time, and the barbariſm of the northern people,,
who begun on that fide to deſtroy Narona. The inhabitants,,
who go often to cut reeds in the marth, affured me, that the
veftiges of that large city may ftill be feen under water. It
muſt have been extended over the plain a great way, and un-
doubtedly above three miles in length at the foot of the hills.
The ancient road is now under water, and we were obliged to
aſcend a very ſteep road, in order to pafs the point of a craggy
hill, on which, probably, before the Roman times, thoſe for-
tifications were erected that coft Vetinius fo much labour. Along
the path are to be feen the traces of ancient infcriptions on the:
rock. The poor hamlet of Vido, now occupies the ſpot where:
temples and palaces of the conquering Romans once ftood; and
grand veftiges ſtill remain of baths,. aqueducts, walls and noble-
edifices; even the wretched cottages of the Morlack inhabitants,
are all built of fine ancient hewn ftone. Few infcriptions are in--
deed now to be found above ground; a great quantity having,
been tranfported to Italy,, to adorn the mufeums of the curious.
I copied
[ 309 ]
AL
{
I copied only two, though it is probable there are more that
might be copied, and which the malicious lazineſs of thoſe in-
habitants prevented my feeing.
Of the formidable number of
Pirates, that, in the middle age, commanded this country, and
who at laſt, after long and bloody wars, were extirpated by the
Venetians, no monument now remains. Perhaps, indeed, it
would have heen in vain to have looked for any although the place
they poffeffed had been defended from inundations, as thofe ra-
pacious Corfairs can hardly have been encouragers of arts, bút
rather deſpiſers of pofterity, as they were of their forefathers.
Some geographers, and Buſching in particular, fay that the
ancient Narona ftood percifely on the hill where now is Citluc, a
ſmall fortified place belonging to the Turks; but this is with-
out all doubt a miſtake, for Citluc lies eight miles from the ruins-
of Narona, and if there are ancient ftones employed in its build-
ings, they muſt have been tranſported from Vids. La Marti-
niere, and feveral authors of maps, mark a city. by the name of
Narenta that does not exiſt. The Norin, after a fhort courſe of
fix miles, runs into the river Narenta, called Oronzio by Porphy-
rogenitus alone, which, augmented by theſe waters, as well a
by thoſe that fall down from the hills Haxabie, enlarges itfelf
in form of a lake, and afterwards dividing into two great bran-
ches, incloſes the infland of Opus, three miles lower down.. The
water of the Narenta is brackish about this iſland, and. fome-
times there is a mixture of fea water twelve miles up the river,,
and beyond the mouth of the Norin. The inhabitants, how-
ever, drink this water, and very probably that is one of the prin-
cipal cauſes of the many diſeaſes and infirmities to which they
are fubject. On the iſland of Opus there is a ſmall fortified.
place with platforms of earth, and near it are two hamlets of
?
More
[ 310 ]
Morlacchi which take the name of towns.
The Morlacchi of
one of thoſe hamlets are of the Greek church. The men dreft
like the other Morlacks; but the women, when in their holi-
day cloaths, wear a caftan after the Turkish faſhion (Pl. XIII.
Fig. 11.) I ftaid fome days on the island of Opus, courteously
entertained by the noble family of Noncovich, and with the
hopes of being able to penetrate farther up the country to Maf-
tar, in order to take a drawing of the ancient bridge, which
gives name to that mercantile city of the Bofnian Turks, moft
Stari fignifying the old bridge. But the Narentine officer, who
had folemnly promifed to efcort me, broke his word in a
ſhameful and infolent manner. You may well believe, my Lord,
that I was heartily vexed at this diſappointment, as it prevented
my ſerving your Lordſhip in a matter that I knew would have
given you pleaſure.
It ſhould ſeem that the ancient geographers were not well ac-
quainted with that part of Dalmatia, and thofe of our days cer-
tainly are not, as they make ſo many miſtakes about rivers, and
the fituation and names of places. cylax Cariandenus, who is
cenſured by Farlati as not exact in deſcribing the territory of
Narenta, feems to me to have had a more juſt idea of it than all
the other ancient writers, and infinitely more fo than all the
moderns. He probably never intended to fay that the river Na-
rona proceeded from the lake of Imafki, as Farlati is inclined to
believe, but that it came from the overflowed plain called in our
days the plain of Narenta. His words, tranflated literally, are
as follows: "Next to the Neftie, (inhabitants of the banks of
"the river Cettina, and of Primorie) is the river Narona. The na-
vigation on it is not narrow, as the gallies and other veffels
fail up as far as the Emporium, which is fituated within land,
"s
""
eighty
A
{
}
+
料
​་་་་་་
;
#
A Narentine Young Woman:
A Lady of Macarſka.
:
1
P. 310.
}
AM
· Jac. Leonardif se.
;
:
+
1
[ 31 3ir
]
eighty ftadii diftant from the fea. There, the Marii, a race
*of
of Illyrian people, inhabit. Beyond this emporium there is a
vaft lake that reaches to the confines of the Autariati, an Illy-
"ric nation alfo, and in that lake is an ifland of a hundred and
twenty ftadii, of which the fields are excellent for cultivati-
66
❝ on.
From this lake the river Narona iffues."* If one were
to ſay that the text of Cariandenus is corrupted, where we read
το είσω το εμπορικ, and that a reading of contrary fenfe ought to
be fubftituted, then the whole matter is adjuſted. The iſland
mentioned by him would be that of Opus; the extent of which
agrees well enough with the hundred and twenty ftadii; the lake
would be found in the ample ſpace occupied by the river, at the
place where it divides itſelf to furround the island.
The empo-
Fium Narona was not above eighty ftadii diftant from the fea in
a.right line; and Pliny was miſtaken in placing it at a greater
diſtance. But without altering the text of cylax, it may be
fuppofed, that the lake, of which he ſpeaks, was the plain of
Raftok,† and Trebifat, which very well deferves that denomina--
tion in the ſeaſon of the inundation, and which from there lies:
detached a large tract of cultivable land, that forms at preſent the
richeſt part of the territory of Glubuski. In this cafe, the author muſt
have taken the Trebifat for the Narona, as the former comes down
from thofe plains, and falls into the Narenta. Perhaps alſo the
iſland, of which this ancient writer mentions the fertility, is that
tract of Narentine land which lies between the Norin and the
Narenta, and which might very well, in ancient times, have been
ifolated.
»
*Scyl. Cariand. inter Geograph. min. Hudfoni. pag. 9:
One might be induced, by the greater analogy of the names, to believe that
the Parra of Porphyrogenitus was Raftok, and not Zaostrog; but as Rafict.
za, as well as Macros, is placed on the fea fide, and faid to be a place of.
fiſhing, it cannot reaſonably be taken for Raftok, that lies within land,
[ 312 ].
ifolated by a regular communication of the two rivers at the foot
of the hill of Citluc, where, at prefent, there is marſhy ground,
and a canal ſcarcely navigable. If we choſe to go further back,
it would be requifite to examine the high land of Mostarsko
Blato, that is, the marthy lake, of Moftar, from which it may
very juftly be afferted that the river Narenta takes its riſe.
The banks of this river were, in former times, famous among
the profeffors of pharmacy,, to whom Nicander preſcribes to ga-
ther the Iris there for the theriaca. And Theophraftus, cited
by Atheneus, gives the preference, over all other countries that
produce this plant, to the Illyric mountains at a diſtance from
the fea; which agrees very well with Nicander, underſtanding
thoſe mountains from which the Narenta iffues.*
And now I
am fpeaking about the ancients, I think it not improper to add,
that at Maftar, and other places of Boffina, the Turks make by
the infufion of honey combs in water, and by means of fermen-
tation, a ſort of hydromel called by them fcerbet, which correſ-
ponds to that used by the ancient Taulanti, who inhabited the
fame country, and of which the whole procefs is particularly
defcribed by the author of a little work περι θαυμασίων ακουσμάτων
attributed to Aristotle.† Our neighbours the Turks, who
would feel the greateſt remorfe if they drunk a glaſs of wine,
21
make
* Athen: Dipnoſoph. Lib. xv. cap. viii.
is
+ They ſay that the Illyrians called Taulantii make wine of honey: they
fqueefe the honey combs, after having thrown water upon them; they
"boil that till only the half remains; then they put it in earthen veſſels, being
"already very fweet to the tafte; afterwards they put it in wooden buts, and
keep it a long time till it acquires the tafte of good wine. This liquor is both
ſweet and wholefome. They ſay that the fame liquor has been alfo made in
Greece, and that it cannot be diftinguished from old wine. Apo waps Japan
66
36
a180 flo
[ 313 ]
Nor are
make no fcruple of drinking this feerbet to excefs.
they more fparing in the uſe of Rakia, which is a ſpirit drawn
from the huſks, after the grapes are preffed; they have, befides,
various preparations of boiled must, with which they indulge
themſelves abundantly. The Mufcelez, and Tuffia, are liquors
of this fort, and very apt to intoxicate, but the probabilift
Turks have made themſelves eafy on that head. The Mufcelez,
when old, requires to be diffolved in fome other liquor, before
it can be drunk, and reſembles fome of the wines of the anci-
ents.
The large river of Narenta is not navigable for barks of great
burden beyond the village of Meriovich, but fmall barks and
boats go as far as Pocitegl, and no farther, as I have been told
by the inhabitants. Thoſe writers, therefore, have certainly
been ill informed, who believed that veffels could go up the ri-
ver as far as Moftar; from whence, were it practicable, the
Turks would undoubtedly convey their merchandize by water,
which would be much more commodious, and lefs expenfive
than the journeys they are obliged to make by land.
The moſt confiderable article of fiſhing in the Narentine marſhes
is eels, which come up the river from the ſea in great plenty.
There is perhaps no other place in Dalmatia better calculated
for a regular eel fiſhing ſuch as that at Comacchio; and if fuch a
proſpect were properly eſtabliſhed, and well managed, it would
doubtless keep a confiderable ſum of money within the ſtate that
now anually goes out of it. Befides eels, there are various other
ſpecies of river fiſh caught in the Narenta, and ſome of the moſt
delicious kinds. Trouts are not rare, and fometimes they catch
falmon. Towards the mouths of the river, and about the ifland
S s
of
[ 314 J
い
​1
6
いい
​of Opus, the Muggini come in numbers at the feafon of depo-
fiting their ſpawn; and, if the people had any tolerable degree
if
of induſtry, great quantities might be caught. The boats
which the Narentines ufe on their river are exceedingly ſmall,
and fight. They call them Ciopule, the fame name that is ufed
by the Moflacchi of the Kerka and Cettina for their canoes.
The Ciopule or Zopoli, of Narenta are not made out of
one trunk
of a tree, but of very thin boards joined together by little ribs
on the infide. There is no difference between the poop and
the prow; both are accuminated, and they have no gunwale.
The extreme littleneſs of theſe boats, and the very fmall diftance
from the water in which thoſe who go in them are, frighten a
beholder not uſed to fuch a fight. The men ufe not oars, but
row their ſkiff with certain paddles about four feet long, which
they manage fitting cross legged like the Turks.
}
A
af
་
र्च
400
300
The foil of Narenta, in the places that are not conftantly
stevi
under water, is fandy, as muſt be the cafe in all lands that are
frequently inundated by a river, without any banks, and every
now and then fwelled by mountain torrents. To thefe floods
the iſland of Opus, which is ftill fübject to them, owes an addi-
tional height of ten feet between the Roman times and the
prefent. An excavation made there in the garden of the
Signori Noncovich ſhewed me the different ftratifications that
have fucceffively covered the old earth, in which at ten feet
depth, are found pieces of broken glafs, and of Roman
kitchen utenfils. Yet the iſland, notwithſtanding its being
thus raifed, is not cultivable every where, many places re-
maining marſhy, though they might be drained, and render-
ed uſeful without much difficulty. The great abundance:
that the Narentine land yields of every kind of product might
,9100 on alusflidyav sagala 13 JADEG
ftimulate
གྭ
!
& 2
1
NIKO
[ 35 ]
1
+
મ
、{
ftimulate the inhabitants to become induftrious, if their lazines
were not infuperable, which is probably a confequence of the
grófs air that furrounds and oppreffes them. Herbage of all
forts, Indian corn, wheat, and olives in particular, fucceed to
a wonderful degree; and mulberry trees rife in a few years to a
furprising luxuriance, and the filk worms that feed on them
make very fine filk. The vines alone do not thrive well, and,
indeed, it is a wonder they grow at all, as they remain every
21 C
9790
{
year fo long under water, eſpecially in the plain between the
two rivers oppofite to Mercovich, a village well inhabited by
healthy, laborious and brave people.
A
F
fal
*Notwithſtanding the fertility of the foil, and the convenience
of the fituation in regard to the trade with Turkey, the territo→
ry of Narenta is very thinly peopled, and very little frequented
by fea-fareing people, who dread the effects of the air, from
which, perhaps, is derived the qualification of Niretva od Bogá
procleta, «Narenta curfed by God;", which is become pro
a
verb in Dalmatia. The celebrated Dr. Giuſeppe Pujati, who
died a profeſſor of phyfick in the univerſity of Padua, publiſhed
a treatife de morbo Naroniano, which is enough to frightens any
one who had a mind to go there, especially in autumn. 1Ydo¹[
was actually there in the month of October, ftaid fifteen days?
and by means of very fimple precautions departed in good health,
together with all my boat's crew, who had laboured very hard
in coming thither. The water, that ſtagnates in ſome places,
becomes peftilential to fuch a degree, as to kilki the Alfhi that
fwim in it; and Pujati affures us, that the birds that frequènt}
marthes, of which there are many thereabouts, often fall down'
poifoned by the deadly exhalations. He reckons the Narentine:
autumnal fevers a fpecies of plague very difficult to cure.
}
E
}
\
S$ 2
;
Every
[ 316 ]
.
Every inhabitant of thoſe parts has his little tent to defend him
from the gnats, and other troubleſomme infects while he fleeps;
and people in eafy circumftances keep themſelves under a gauze
pavilion, even in the day time, during the hot ſeaſon. The
number of theſe tormenting little animals was fo great when I
was there, that I was almoſt deſperate. An ecclefiaftick fhewed
me a ſmall excrefcence that he had on his forehead, and af
fured me that it proceeded from the fting of a gnat. He is a
man of rather an acute understanding; and told me, that he fuf-
pected that the fevers with which the Narentines are molefted,
might be occafioned by the punctures of thofe infects, who,
after having fucked a putrid fish, or quadruped, or perhaps fome
poiſonous herb, come to fuck the blood of men.
It does not,
indeed, appear impoffible that fome infection may be commu-
nicated in this manner; and the conjecture is at leaſt ingenious.
Notwithstanding all this, the unhealthfulneſs of the territory of
Narenta is not irremediable, and fome parts of it are already
rendered habitable by means of cultivation. If proper encou-
ragement was given to agriculture, and to raifing corn in parti-
cular, there is no doubt but this diftrict might again become
rich and pleaſant, as it muſt have been in ancient times..
The circumjacent hills are, for the most part, of marble, of
which the organization is the fame as that on the iflands.
- No
foffil curiofities, nor ufeful difcoveries are to be met with there-
abouts, excepting a mine of Piffafphaltus, that lies at the foot
of mount Rabba, in the diſtrict of Slivno, in Xaxabie. I did
not vifit that ſpot, nor a quarry of white marble at a place
called Comin which was indicated to me. The mountainous re-
gion is full of caves and gulfs, about which they tell many
1
wanderful
[
317 ]
A
wonderful ftories. I had a friar with me in the boat, from
whom I was given to hope fome uſeful information, but inſtead
of that, he only told me the moſt foolish fables that, can enter
into a brain vitiated by fuperftition. This ftrange mortal fwore
to the cries of children in the gulfs, and to the dances of
fairies in the caverns, as pofitively as if he had ſeen them a
thousand times. He affured me that he had, in a particular
book of his, a certain benediction, which no fever could reſiſt.
On being aſked, why he did not cure all the poor people of the
country, and thus make a merit to himſelf both with God and
men ? he anſwered ingenuouſly, that he muſt be well paid for
working fuch miracles, and did not think it worth his while to
meddle with fuch poor wretches. I was little edified, as you
may believe, by this fincerity, and fo much the more it appear-
ed monstrous to me, becauſe his brethren are full of humanity
and charity to the poor Morlacchi. It would be tedious and
uſeleſs to relate the nonſenſe and falſehoods told me by this fan-
taftick friar, relative to the ancient extent of theſe marſhes, and
the monuments and infcriptions to be found in them. I trufted
to his information only once, and had caufe to repent of it.
There is alſo a fmall printed book, which contains many filly
and apocryphal ſtories about the territory of Narenta; I will not
fay that my friar is the author, but whether he is or not, it is a
work that neither deſerves to be read nor cenfured.
}
f
I left the country of Narenta, full of grateful fentiments to
my courteous hofts, but, at the ſame time, piqued at the unci-
vility of fome others with whom I had the ill fortune to get
acquainted. Nor can I forget the vexation I felt on being dif-
appointed of a fight of the bridge of Moftar. Yet ftill I hope,
my
[ 38 ]
my Lord, to be able to ferve you in that article, if ever I re-
turn again to Dalmatia, wiſhing to give you frequent proofs of
my juſt and unalterable attachment to your Lordſhip, which the
continuance of your goodneſs to me renders ftill more ftrong in
fpite of time and diftance.
TO
[ 379 ]
TO THE.
ABBÈ LAZZERO SPALLANZANI,
PROFESSOR OF NATURAL HISTORY IN THE UNIVER-
SITY OF PAVIA, FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY
OF LONDON, &c. &c.
'
Concerning the Islands of LISSA, PELAGOSA, LESINA, and BRAZ-
ZA in the DALMATIC SEA, and the Iſland of ARBE in the
QUARNARO.
THO
HOUGH I am very fenfible that things begun, and left
off before they are half finiſhed, are in general not wor-
thy to be prefented to the Publick, nor to a learned man in par-
ticular; and being fully convinced, that my obſervations in Dal-
matia, and the numerous iſlands in the adjacent fea, are defec-
tive and unfatisfactory, becauſe I was prevented, by unſeaſona-
ble combinations, from making them more complete, yet I ven-
ture to addreſs a part of them to you, my learned and worthy
friend, without any apprehenfion of your cenfuring me for te-
merity, or deſpifing my gift, ſuch as it is. Experience, I pre-
fume, has fhewed you, how many unforeſeen difficulties and
delays a naturalift, who travels among the mountains, often.
meets with, even when eſcorted by the authority of government;
and hence you are better able, than the fedentary literati, to cal-
culate how much time I muſt unavoidably have loft, through
changes of air, inconftancy of weather, and the ignorance, or
diffidence
[ 320 ]
diffidence of uncivilized men, in a vast tract of country thinly
inhabited, and far from Italian politenefs. I may venture to ſay,
that the days, thus indifpenfably loft, made up more than half
of the ten months, which I ſpent in both my tours in Dalmatia;
and ftill I should probably have made amends for this lofs, if,
after having furmounted a great part of the difficulties, the ot
cafion of my returning thither had not ceaſed. At any rate, as
no body hitherto has given any minute account of that large
country, I flatter myſelf, that the little which I have obferv-
ed, will afford fome pleaſure to the lovers of natural hiftory.
Of the Islands LISSA, and PELAGOSA.
✩
} }
ご
​K
The island, that in our days is called Liffa, was known by
the ancients under the name of Isra, Iffa. Both the Greek and
Latin geographers make honourable mention of it, as a colony
of the Syracufans; and almoſt unanimouſly give it the first place
among the iſlands in the Illyric fea; though it is not one of the
largeſt. Scimnus of Chio, treating of the Illyric iflands, begins
with Liffa, though it lies the fartheft from the Continent; Stra-
bo counts it with diftinction among the most noted; and Aga-
thererus places it at the head of the moft noble iflands; nor is
there any geographer who does not name it in a diſtinguiſhed
manner. Among the Greek poets, Apollonius, the Rhodian,
in the Argonautica, mentions it with the epithet of donerados,
noiſy, or ill-founding, and joins to it the defireable Pythica,
which ſhould not be Lefina, as fome of the beft geographers
have fuppofed, but the fmall island of S. Andrea, which is ftill
covered with wood in our days, whence a refinous juice is ex-
tracted by incifion. We learn from Lycophron, in his Caffan-
dra, that Cadmus lived for fome time in Liffa, and begot a fon
·
محطة
{
there.
[ 321 ]
Of
there. Almost all the Greek and Latin hiftorians of the first
order treat fully of this ifland,. which, from the remoteſt times,
was confiderable for its maritime force, and its commerce.
the Liburni, and their allies the Hetrufci of Adria, who, after
they had fettled themſelves there, gave the law to all the Adri-
atick, there are no very diſtinct accounts preſerved in hiſtory
and we begin to know fomething about the Liffani in the xciit
Olympiad; that is, at the time when Dionyfius, the elder, made
himſelf maſter of the iſland, and fent a colony of Syracufans
thither; which, in the courſe of time, became independent on
the mother-country, and formidable by the extent of its domini-
ons, and the number of its fhips. The Leffani had frequent
wars with the kings of Illyrium, and were allies of the Romans,
by whom they were held in fuch efteem, that, on their ac-
count, they ſent an embaffy to Queen Teuta, to defire that ſhe
would ceafe to moleft them. The bloody conſequence of this
legation ferved as a pretext for the firft Illyric war, which
brought on all the others, and ended in the conqueft of that vaſt
country. During theſe commotions, the commerce and navi-
gation of the Liffani began to decline, and of confequence their
power was reduced almoſt to nothing after the end of the Illyric
wars. Hiftorians mention them no more during a long feries of
ages; and we find only in the middle times that they belonged
to the pirates of Narenta. In fubfequent times, the iſland of
Liffa became dependant on that of Lefina; and never after was
in a condition to form a ſeparate body of itſelf. It is only thirty
miles in circumference; is mountainous, though not without
cultivable plains; the temperature of the air is remarkably hap→
py, and it wants nothing but plenty of fresh water to make it a
perfectly agreeable ſpot,
}
Tt
In
[ 322 ]
In ancient times it had two cities, one of which bore the name
of the iſland, and the other was called Meo. Some miſérable
veftiges of the firft ftill remain above the harbour, which is truly
theatrical, and at prefent is overlooked by the village of Liffa G &
fome old mofaic pavements are ftill to be feen, though under
water, when the tide rifes. The ruins of the other city are,
probably thoſe at Comifa, a populous and cultivated place, that
lies near the fea, on the eaſt fide of the island. There are ftill
to be ſeen two coins of the Ifei, one of which has the head of
Pallas armed, and on the riverfe an Amphora; the other has a
goat on the reverſe, inſtead of the Amphora. In digging, there
are fometimes found ancient vafes, refembling the Etrufcan in
the form and varnish; and alfo fome Greek and Latin infcrip-
tions. In this age, a man of great erudition flouriſhed there, of
the family of Caramaneo, who left many valuable papers, tend-
ing chiefly to illuftrate the hiſtory of his country. This learned
man brought himſelf into no little trouble by proving in a dif-
fertation, that the reliques of S. Doimo, venerated at Spalatro
with great zeal, were not genuine. I was only once in the iſland
of Liffa, in company with the Biſhop of Derry, an indefa-
tigable lover of natural hiſtory; we landed, as it were, at a.
venture, without recommendation to any perſon who could give
us ufeful intelligence. Hence we could obferve but little, and
were, befides, tormented by the exceffive heat of the ſeaſon,
which, however, my Lord, would not have minded, if there
had been a view of making intereſting obfervations.
}
4
The organization of the iſland of Liffa, is principally of mar-
ble. There are fome Orthoceratites in the common marble
which is found in the lower ftrata, and in the upper ftrata, are
Namifmales. This law, however, is fometimes inverted. Among
the
$
[ 323 ]
I
the ſpecies of ſtones that are obferved along the ſhore of Liffa,
there is a flaty marble of very thin ftrata, and a whitish calca-
reous fciffile ſtone, not very fit for economical uſes, as the la-
miņa are irregular and brittle. Foffil bones are alfo found pe-
trified in the fame fubftance, which is feen in various places,
in the iflands of Ofero, and Rogofniza. Abundance of them are
met with in the vertical chinks of the ftrata, in the fmall valley
of Ruda; and the inhabitants told us, that ftill greater plenty
is found in a rock not far from that valley, called Budicovaz,
as well as in other parts of the iſland.
९
Donati, in his Saggio d'iftoria naturale dell' Adriatico, writes,
that he found in the fea near Liffa, a fpecies of ferpentine mar-
ble;
but does not tell us whether it was fome adventitious
piece, or really of a local quarry. In that part of the iſland
which I faw, there is no appearance of Vulcanic eruptions, from
whence a probability might be deduced of finding ferpentines,
or other kinds of marble produced by fire. We faw feveral
pieces of lava ſcattered on the ſhore of Liffa, and being newly
come from Vefuvius, we flattered ourſelves with the hopes of
finding fome extinct Volcano on this ifland. The inhabitants
affured us, that, at a place called Porto Manica, the fea threw
out nothing elſe but black ftones; we went thither, croffing
over the iſland on horfeback, and found all that had been told
us quite falfe. We concluded therefore, that the vulcanic ſtones
we had ſeen at Liffa were not indigenous; yet, afterwards, they
wanted to perfuade us, that a rock, near Porto Manica, was al-
together compofed of black ftone, like the accidental pieces we
had feen; but we found no boat to ferry us over; fo we remain
ed with the probability only that this story was a fecond
fiction. In traverſing the iſland, we ſaw nothing like fine mar-
ble
Tt 2
*
[ 324 J
74
4
1
}
ble; but no doubt there is compact breccia in the internal parts
of the hills, as well as the rough and ignoble ftone on the out-
fide. The foil is reddith, and tiff like clay, faturated with iron
ochre, but on the heights, the ground is fandy and gravellyn
५
{
}
The moſt celebrated produce of this ifland in ancient times,
was wine. Atheneus makes honourable mention of it, on the
faith of Agatharchis, who preferred the wine of Liffa to all
others. In Liffa, an iſland in the Adriatick, fays Agathar
to
chis, there grows a wine, which, compared with any other,
exceeds it in goodness."" In our days, the wine of Liffa is
of a very different quality; either because they have hot thecart
to make it, or because the ancient fpecies of grapes are loft thro
time. The foil, as well as the fituation are both well calculated
for any produce; vines, olives, mulberry trees, almonds and
figs, grow there in perfection. The quantity of ſweet herbs on
the hills of Lifla, renders the honey of an excellent flavour, but
the bees do not make much, which is probably owing to the
fcarcity of fresh water. The flesh of the lambs and kids,' and
the milk and cheeſe are of excellent quality; but the wool is
bad, owing to the little care they take of their flocks. The iſland
produces but little corn, not enough to maintain the fmall num-
ber of inhabitants.
}
1
}
{ }
1 1
1
*
t
تر
'
A
4
The moſt important article of trade in Liffa, proceeds from
the fiſhing. One boat alone, with a drag net, catches fometimes
in a few hours of a dark night, fixty, a hundred, to a hundred
and fifty thoufand fardels. But in theſe cafes, the too great
abundance becomes an object of mortification. Through one of
thofe little political reaſons, which often carry along with them
confequences of confiderable préjudice, the island of Liffa, tho'
>
in
[ 325 ]
1
t₁
7
ina fituation the most convenient for carrying on a very advan-
tageous fishing, has no magazine of falt. The fishermen, there-
fore, when they happen to catch a great quantity, are under the
neceffity of failing or rowing thirty or forty miles to find ſalt in
the magazines of Lefina to preferve them. They undertake
this voyage, if the wind and weather are tolerably favourable;
but it frequently happens, that defpairing of being able to go
and return with the neceffary expedition, they throw into the
fea fifty, and fometimes a hundred thouſand fish, to prevent their
being poiſoned with the ftench. Every thouſand fardels is
-worth about a chequin; and mackrel is of more value, as being a
larger fish. It would certainly be an act of true national economy
© to permit a magazine of falt to be kept on the ifland of Liffa,
that the poor, inhabitants might not ſo often lofe the fruits of
their labours. The fishing of the Liffans is not confined to the
dark nights of the fummer months only, for the mild climate of
that ifland permits the fishermen to exerciſe it even in winter;
and the plenty of fishes that come to fhelter themfelves in that
feafon, among the contiguous rocks, afford fufficient recom-
A
7
た​と
​مجھے امیر
565
3
Od 290
い
​L
2.7
10
* pence for the fatigues infeparable from that art. All the fpecies
of fishes round about Liffa, are larger than in places nearer the
continent; and the orate and dentici catched there in winter are
uſually preferved in gelly, and form an article of trade. Among
the curious fishes found in thoſe waters, the Paklara is the moſt
remarkable; I did not, fee it, but, the defcription given me by
the fiſhermen, agrees, with the Echeneis of Artedi, and Govan,
though, in my opinion, not with the Echeneis or Remora of the
ancients. *
{
I
}
2
彝
​4
$
}
*Artedi, Syn. p. 28. Govan, hift. Pifc. Gen. XXXVII.
3
The
[ 326 ]
The Liffans, by their fituation lying out of the way of others,
and confequently not in danger of damaging the nets of their
neighbours, ought to be at liberty to uſe whatever fort of nets
fuited them beft; yet they are not at full liberty even in that
article. This is the principal reaſon that they frequently leave
their own waters, and go to fish about the ſmall iſland of Pela-
gofa, which is fixty miles diftant from Liffa, and about the fame
diſtance from the promontory of S. Angelo in Apulia. The
fish they catch there, is not fent to market at Venice, where
they pretend that they meet not with due encouragement; but
are all fold in the kingdom of Naples, of which the coaſt that
looks to the Adriatick is but ill provided with fiſhermen., It
were to be wifhed, that in places where great plenty of fish is
caught, fuch as the iſland of Liffa, fome proper regulations. were
introduced relative to the fiſhing in general, and to the falting
of the fish in particular; and the model might be borrowed from
the French, accommodating it to our circumftances.
<
The iſland Pelagofa, together with feveral rocks that appear
above water near it, are the remains of an ancient Volcano. I
will not affure you that it was thrown up out of the fea like fe-
veral other iflands in the Archipelago, though there is ſome
ground to fufpect this to have been the cafe; becauſe we find no
preciſe mention of it in the moſt ancient geographers. It ſhould
feem that it ought not to be confufed with the Diomedee, from
which it is thirty miles diftant; yet it is not impoffible that they
have reckoned it among them. The lava which forms the fub-
ſtance of this iſland, is perfectly like the ordinary lava of Veſu-
*
>
vius, as far as I could difcover in paffing near it. If a naturalift
should land there, and vifit on purpoſe the higheſt parts of the
ifland, perhaps we might then know whether it has been thrown
up
[ 327 ]
$
up by a 'fubmarine Volcano, as the island' near Santerini was in
our age; or if we ought to believe it the top of ſome ancient
Volcanic mountain, of which the roots and fides have been co-
wered by the waters, which divided Africa from Spain, forming
the Strait of Gibraltar; an invafion that no one can doubt of
who has examined the bottoms and fhores of our fea. The
Liffan fiſhermen ſay, that Pelagofa is ſubject to frequent and vio-
lent earthquakes; and the afpect of the island proves, at firft
fight, that it has fuffered many revolutions; for it is rugged,
ruinous, and fubverted. I fhould have been defirous of vifiting
the Diomedean islands alfo, that are called Tremiti by our geo-
graphers; a name, perhaps, derived from the frequency of
earthquakes, as, according to my conjecture, they are of vul--
canic character: but I begin to be difcouraged in thefe purfuits.
I' will confefs to you, my good Friend, that after the diſcoveries
of ancient volcanos by Mr. Banks, and his learned companions,
in the iſlands of Scotland, Iceland, and the new diſcovered coun-
tries; after the obfervations of the acute Bishop of Derry, in
Ireland, in Auvergne and Velay; and the orctological journies
among the mountains of Switzerland, France, and Germany,
lately made by the celebrated naturalift, John Strange, Efquire,
all our things ſeem to me but microfcope objects. The only
advantage that we can draw from their littlenefs, and which
hinders my being entirely difgufted with them, is this, that
they can be more diligently examined than the greater objects.
Nature is always equally ingenious and grand; nor, to the eyes
of an obferver, ought the fmall bafaltine cryftallizations of com-
mon lava, or the little cryftals of the Euganean hills, to prove
leſs than the amazing prifmatic columns of Staffa, or the cryftal-
line grottos of Switzerland. It requires, however, fome pains,
to keep this truth always before one's eyes, and more eſpecially
t
ONN
}
[328]
on feeing the defcriptions; or drawings of thofe magnificent:
13 12 turtu, dirasmg.-
works of nature.
vd
0:
Sht tubus an 113 3
13 bis
{
?
Of the Iſland of LESÍNA.“
འ
ř š
2
يعفي
€13717-
The name of this ifland when fubject to the Liburni, is not
recorded, as far as I know, by either the ancient geographers or
hiftorians. Scylax calls it papos, and fays no more about it.
す ​boun
Scimnus (if he is as ancient as fome of his commentators pre-
tend) is the first who mentions that it was a colony of the
Parii; * in which he agrees with Strabo, who adds, that it was
by thoſe new-comers, first named paços, Paros. Tolommeus
gives the name of gaux, Pharia, both to the iſland, and to its
capital; and the geographers of the lower times, almoft all
agree in giving it this name, from which that given it by the
Slavi differs very little they calling it Huar in their language,
which according to the primitive pronunciation, fubftitutes the
letters HV for the letter F, and fometimes the letter P for F.
ISMENOSTRANTSWO, ANION
At present its name is Lefina, i. e.
UCITYTE JU
*
។
3.096020916
望
​a fhoe-maker's awl, from its
The Parii, who, according
heard about
The Parii
2 3 June
figure reſembling that inftrument
to, Diodorus Siculus were fent by the oracle, to fettle themfelves
in the Adriatick, built Pharia, and formed a fmall republick, of
which a coin is ſtill extant. They lived in liberty, more peace-
able than glorious, till the time of Argo, by whom they were
ſubdued, perhaps, together with many other people on the con-
tinent, and all the other iflanders, excepting thofe of Lifla.
vin pidada, sc
The Roman hiftorians fay much lefs about the Farii than about
Demetrius their countryman, who becoming powerful at the court
of Agro, and Teuta, betrayed his fovereign, and delivered into
*
.
$
*
+
!
CA
MONTO CAL
wboy sui
* Φαρὶς δὲ τε των εκ αποθεν κείμενη
Νήσος, Παρίων κτιςις εςτινο Σκύμνο 428.
* STB VOC) 001
叁
​T
the
}
Ï 329 I°
the hands of the Romans, feveral places, one of which was Faria,
his native country, of which he had been made governor by
Agro; and he became Lord of it, in reward of his treafon. How
this man abuſed the friendſhip of the Romans, we learn from
Polybius, Dion and Appian. Faria bore the puniſhment of
his crimes, and was more than once deſtroyed by the Romans
themſelves, in the war with Philip of Macedon. It is fome-
what remarkable, that the fame of the Farii, both begun and
ended by means of a traitor. After the death of Demetrius, we
hear nothing more concerning them in the ancient prophane
writers. When the empire was on its decline, this ifland chan-
-ged maſters often, and continued a long time in the hands of the
Narentines; afterwards it had particular lords, the laſt of whom,
Aliota Capenna, ceded it to the moſt ferene republick of Venice,
in MCCCCXXIV.
*
t
}
+
+
This iſland is about forty-four miles long, and its greateſt
breadth is eight. The chief town is alfo called Lefina, and is
fituated towards the weſtern extremety of the iſland, în a place not
ill chofen, though not comparable, in any refpect, to the ſpot on
which the ancient Parii had built their city. It is tolerably well
inhabited, and there refides in it a proveditor, or governor,
who is a noble Venetian, and a biſhop; the caſtle which com-
mands it is built on the top of a marble hill, but both that,
and the other military works are ill kept. The harbour, though
L
well covered, and fpacious, is little frequented at prefent, and
the inhabitants are poor. The Lefignani are civil to ſtrangers,
tho' they are faid to live in no good harmony among themſelves.
T
{
During the ſhort time that I. ftaid at Lefina, 1 collected a va-
riety of stones. The most beautiful is a marble of a very fine
U u
faline
[ 330
330 ]
J
&
faline, grain, flesh coloured, and lifted this is not found in large
ftrata, but in groups, like the ſtalactitical marbles, which are also
common there. Very large frata are feen of a fpecies of luma-
chella,
vilan object a Bors
pbj s ct more cu bl
more curious to the eyes of a naturalift, than
valuable to the ſtone cutters its ground is of a fullied, white
colour, and its fubftance rigid; the fragments of marine bodies
diſpoſed horrizontally in it, are changed into a yellowith fpar
That fpecies of marble ſtone of a dark red colour, which at Ve-
OSTRUI 3.3 YU HOAJ ESQUELSES1 94) Ils parlw
nice goes by the name of Roffe da Cattare (because a quantity of
of
it is brought from the neighbourhood of the city of Cattaro) is
* GOT
very common in Lefina and there is alfo plenty of corallated
front s mriels bloovy
VISIOG TOU NOT
VL
18
golasy 70s,n:
มา
ng 39, of dingo 19 15.
breccia, in the ſpots of which a reddiſh and violet colour predo-
191 01 600 slimega dnataoɔ bas „2c1197 OJ
DAL
WILLOU
C
ཏེ
^ミ
​audi,sat no haßislic
This
minate; the ftones of which this laft fpecies is compofed, are
C1 16 31101000 195 200 vibiqst nog
rounded, and preferve the characters of a long fluitation.
20 93890 to ravel &*
breccia ordinarily occupies the fummit of the mountains: and thus
Jagi
renders more evident the ancient adheſion of the iflands with the
neighbouring continent, on whofe heights the fame kind of fub-
ſtance may be obſerved. You are convinced as well as I am,
hout evaderomNAROD ASTRIANO s yd botguioncq
that, before rounded gravel could be formed, it was neceffary
that high mountains pre-exifted, from which the torrents might.
ſeparate them, and carry them away; and feeing in the rounded.
ftones of the breccia, that are found on the mountains of the
iffand, marine bodies petrified, it becomes indifpenfable to place
ความ
YUM 1er ed uberes bediosa
00
D
A
37latz de ba
B
monodv
the feat of an ancient fea upon thoſe mountains now deftroved.
from whence the gravel defcended. It is true, that this bufi-
nefs of fabrication and deſtruction requires fame length of time;
but we cannot help that. But how the immenfe beds of
gravel
brought down by rivers and torrents, or tranfported and mixed
by the marine waters, have been abandoned by the Tea, and in-
vaded by new rivers and torrents, which transformed the conti-
nued plains into mountains, and hills cut and ſubdivided by val-
they
4
701 & 8 3130.
ENOWAY
leys a
[ 33 ]
ther
leys: how the rivers and torrents were deprived of water, by
the deſtruction of the more ancient mountains, "effom whence
the gravel had been carried down and how, in the great
chaſms and valleys, a new fea has been introduced, I really cana
not tell
though theſe laſt events muſt have happened very near
our age, in compariſon of the firſt. It would be truly a whim
fical enterpriſe to ſet one's felf purpoſely to explain how, and
when all the revolutions undergone by the furface alone of our
globe have come to pafs. The number of them that co¤la´bè
L
winouD e JL
19060.J
-obara walovi
~727
be
proved by the obſervations of diligent and 'unprejudiced naturaliſts
would alarm a thouſand Browalls, who perhaps would not come
to terms, and content themſelves to let all thofe revolutions hap~
9 SE PE Modw to anal edt
pen rapidly one after another in a fhort round of ages; though
crebered edt sv,slang bas
916
did I
}
babquo
UO
a lover of peace would hardly venture to object against fuch an
ament asiquɔɔo pliiamibro nisa
20% I
expedient.
2018 0.0036
en nuw infish er
-dul to,baid, vm..
ร
·
* J JOeDive 210m robuot
h
I no sitnoɔ gaineddoe
I collected on the fhore of Lefina, yellow, green, and red
A I [sw 28
„bavialdo ad vem eonsf)
Hints, aff per 26, 20
all penetrated by a pyritical denromorphous fluor. In the
21 Divoo laure
ご
​I binds 191 rte beho stated di
fmall rock of Borovaz there are heaps of foffil bones.
Jağım aran S
bebopo1 sdi 10
V. A
1
ぶ
​2012
qenistavca dgid 1861
01-11 y163, bas quedi 181093)
The town of Lefina gave birth to feveral learned men in the
to in
80 STUJON
C
AUTO SA menus (
1901
XV century, whofe names are recorded by Vincenzo Pribevio in
casio of alcun AUC 390029. Ji 696.790 291bod snarm bachi
his oration recited there in the year MDXXV de origine et fuccef-
fibus Sclavorum. Two of them diftinguiſhed themſelves, in po-
etry: viz) Annibale Lucio, and Pietro Ettoreo; of the firſt o
2017 TO ટો
whom fome poetical pieces are printed, as, perhaps, fome works
DX found) sw, jud
10100
219 10 23:
baxim buc Derica!.
Y
of the laft alfo are, and many remain in manufcript, among which
aimeriot bas ercy 1
21
there is a tranſlation of Ovid's Cure of love in Illyric verfe, and
བའ
LAX
DOF
various eclogues,
ぶ
​?
vd
Debay
F
AAT 2.1
W
The
Uu2
انورا
[ 332 ]
1
The iſland of Lefima, though ſtoney, and barren in the high-
eft parts of it, contains tracts of very good land, fit to bear, not
only fruit trees, but likewife corn. Hence this ifland is better
peopled than any other in the Illyric fea, and fome of its villages
deferve the name of large boroughs, and exceed in number of
inhabitants, many fmall cities. Among theſe the largeſt is that
which arofe out of the ruins of the ancient Faria, and is ſtill cal-
led the old city. It lies on the fea fide, with very pleaſant fields
towards the hills,
Deres politely
ל
ISAIA
J
$
man, do cabose
and a commodious harbour before it! In this
place alone the fea yields to the prolongation of the land; and the
manifeſt cauſe is the declivity of the fields behind the village,
which are extended, in an eafy afcent, along the fide of the
mountain, and flanked by very high land towards the upper exc
diw jam I ands são viño
tremity. The muddy waters, that deſcend after the inse
pofite the earth, with which they were faturated on the thore,
and by little and little fill it up. It alſo appeared to me, by
the few ancient ruins remaining above ground, that Faria lay-
969291 of zalons Inoor
almoſt two miles further back than the old city actually
Esiste qala
Rodz
ગ્
(བྷྲ ་ .
16gs 22319mdat ben
this opinion.
SłużJ, SRA O
elle7 903 WIGA
رأ
and the accounts given me by the inhabitants confirmed the in
I faw only two ancient pieces in this place, the
moft valuable of which is a bars-relief fufficiently well preferved
in Greek marble, which reprefents a bark under fail; with the
ybull to vilum byss Iliw bas
rudder on the right fide of the poop, and the fteerfman The
other is a fephulchral baſs-relief, ill cut. I was obliged to go
to find the first on the top of the fteeple, in which building it is
diven odw homsła w
probable that many monuments of the Farii have periſhed.. I
found no traces of Greek infcriptions, and only a fingle fepul-
chral monument in Latín, a mile without the village, which
-
of
od, and promoth
10
J
I copied, and repented of going fo far to find it. The inhabi-
tants of this iſland are tall of ſtature,' couragious, and lively:
な
​they apply themſelves much to navigation, and the people:
in
[ 3338
in general are employed in, fishing, and in building barks and
boats. दु
V
t th poop 1.v to Ben Polanca
kaher de
se tuil vino
09:00
* nudi in sorsh
7 SH ~50% shwell tud
From the old city, I went on, horseback to the ſmall bay of
Zucova, where there is a harbour tolerably good for fishing boats.
Along the shore of that bay, there is a whitiſh flatey marble,
with the flabs, of which the iſlanders of Dalmatia, generally ufe
to cover their houſes. It happens often, that, in fplitting the
thickeſt lamina of this fpecies of stone, the impreffions of ma-
rine plants, and of fishes, not known in our feas, are difcovered;
but the chance of finding the impreffions, and the bones of the
fishes petrified is very rare, tho' that of the plants is very common.
but there are not many different fpecies of them. Impreffions of
Coralline plants are rare, and the only one that I met with well
expreffed, is gone to England to have a place in very rich col-
lection, together with the few fishes that I could find on that ſpot.
C
YURES
ها
L
Sixs SIA KOMU
12[w Ybbu sil
a
73017
J
318097 kid wat s01
ご
​160 50 eam owl forts
em
I alfo found there mufcles changed into ſtone, but ill preſerved,
and disfigured. The fea, not obliged by local caufes to recede,
encroaches upon the coaft of Zukova, and fubmerges again, by
little and little, The curve ftrata of flatey marble, in which
the ſkeletons of the fiſhes lie buried my to, aldarby hom
will remain in the courſe
of time, covered with gravel and fand, mixed with the tefta-
25 m d
TOLOW F
१
WEL }
WA
dien no 19bb
1 & 20
or left
bad
1şat
ceous bodies of the Adriatick and will afford matter of ſtudy
to the naturaliſts of future ages; if any of them happen to go
there to examine that fpot, become fubaqueous, on again fo
dry. A naturalift cannot indeed be greatly blamed, who having
draw up a petrifaction from fome toney ftratum in the bot-
cenoliqromi X8910 10 23327) on quap
gapl
tom of the fea, believes it formed by the waters under W
it lay and yet in fact the proof is evident, that it is not gene-
rally fo: and the large pieces of marble containing lenticulares
"'
NBBL Menam
and
}
[ 334 ]
and orthoceratites, that are fiſhed up by theinftrument uſed by the
coral fiſhers, out of the depths of our Adriatick, give a clear de-
‛{ཀ/ ༄
ふ
​OW TO USJ122
monftration of it. The ſkeletons of filhes at Zukova, which,
Fotogmos
dson
W
3
21.5
EVODOI.
in no very great ſpace of time will be again under water, toge-
bom lis
ther with the ftrata in which they lie, certainly do not belong
to our ſea, poſterior, by much, to the time of their depoſition.
I have none of them by me at prefent, to defcribe their diſtin-
guiſhable parts, and determine to what genus they belong, and
which of the known fpecies they refemble moft.
ཏ་
HC boyuado asde ca
Tap:)
1001 d.
1 *
{
3*
JDA
*
A fmall hamlet at a diſtance from the fea, called Verbagn, has
another maſs of flatey marble, in which fishes are alfo found:
Ivanu le vii), liars q7959) 10 32st iten
but in order to have any, it would be neceffary to wait whole
asquings edi, no at
weeks, and to employ at one's own expence the ftone diggers,
35dw
who are not fond of theſe curiofities. Verbagn is two miles
diftant from Varboſea, a well peopled village two ages ago, as
may be ſeen by many good houſes now in ruins.
things
The inhabi-
tants of this place, and generally all thofe on the fea coaſt, are
civil and hofpitable. The chief occupation of the women is the
culture of the land: and the men are moſtly employed in the
fiſhing, when they have means and health to exerciſe it. From
12991.900.900 I
Varborea to Gelfa by land, is a journey of four miles. I found
on the road, a 'fomfl curiofity, that feemed to merit all my at-
tention. A good part of the way, and almoſt the whole of an
intermediate hill is of a fluviatick concretion, left there by ſome
ancient river now loft, or deviated fome other way, not difco-
verable at préfent. This concretion which muſt have been for-
dou zreambe on zdlo
marble ftrata, of which the
7
*
↓
med long after the
1 }
cold
O)
baratt›
organization of
the iſland is compofed, is certainly not a little anterior to the ir-
ruption of the new fea in our lands, which, however, is not an
affair of recent date; becaufe the iflands of Dalmatia muſt have
been,
•
[ 335 ]
been, from a ſtate of ancient plains,
interfected by vallies, when the fea
རུ
reduced into mountains
came to vifit them.
BIGL
94) 10 140, 18ent
2.948
The
the top of the mounta n
to 32891 34919 PRV 01 00
7
350
27109
{
{
interior part of Dalmatia, beheld from
Biocova, compared to the iſlands, which from that height are.
ſeen all united, preſents a view very like them,, when the fur-
rounding fea is removed by fancy. I emptied, in imagination,
into the valleys of Baffina, flanked here by hills, and there
by mountains, all the fea that furrounds Lefina, Liffia, Brazza,
and the numerous other Illyric islands, and left them dry. Bof-
fina then changed fituation, and became a continuation of Pri-
morie; and the Illyric Archipelago appeared almoſt without any
diſtinguiſhable alteration tranſported beyond mount Adrio. The
finall lake of Jezero which full of little iſlands and woody rocks
lies on the continent at the foot of Biocova, which feparates, it
from the fea, reprefents in the circuit of a few miles, what all
tranfalpine country would be if it were inundated, and
what the iſlands were before the fea furrounded them.
low sw CI
that
ہو
Gella
.
15
૧૨
11
2 LA
L
JO
{
Svona hindi tony one
175 of
140
“ }
bot auf "0 2151
is a large and populous village, well fituated, with a
good harbour, and plentifully fupplied with fresh water. It
ſtands at the foot of marble hills, which, with an eafy defcent
loſe themſelves in the fea. There one fees the fineſt breccia
fcattered in the coarfe pavement of the ſtreets, and employed in
the moſt ignoble fabricks. The breccia of Gelfa is generally
compofed of angular pieces of white marble, fufceptible of, a
fine poliſh, and united together by a cement of red petrified
earth 3,95
the violet coloured breccia is alfo not rare, it is ſtained
very irregularly, and is worthy to adorn any noble edifice. Mon-
fignor Blafcovich, bishop of Macaríka, caufed all the columns of
his new cathedral, and all the ſteps of the altars to be brought
from this place. The only defect that can be ſeen in them,,
1990 A BE 507
$
proceeds
1
[ 336 ]
proceeds from the bad choice made by the ftonecutters, led
perhaps by a ſpirit of miſtaken economy, to take the firſt that
came to their hands, as being moſt convenient for embarkation.
When the marble of a new quarry is to be uſed, the exterior
ftratum ought not to be depended upon, it being uſually damaged
by the injuries of the air, and of the falt water if on the fea
ſhore, which the inner ftrata are not expoſed to. The fubftance
of the marble of Gelfa, employed at Macarſka, is beautiful, and
the poliſh as high as that of the fineſt breccia at Rome, which
probably was brought thither from Dalmatia; but the cement
that forms the aggregation of the pieces, has fuffered fome de-
gree
of prejudice by being expoſed for a long ſeries of ages to the
rain, the fea, the heat of the fun, and the action of the air;
and hence, the ſmoothneſs of the work has not all the unifor-
mity and perfection that might be expected. It would be re-
quifite to take the breccia of Gelſa at ſome hundred paces dif-
tant from the ſea, and from a quarry moderately deep; the fuc-
çefs could not fail amply to compenſate the ſmall additional ex-
pence. And would it not be better for the city of Venice, where
the quantity of marble annually uſed is confiderable, to have it
from the iſlands of Dalmatia, at a trifling charge, rather than
from the Terraferma, or from other ſtates, at an exorbitant price.
Befides the breccia, I faw at Gelfa, adventitious pieces of lama-
chella, white, and black, compofed of bituminous marine earth
hardened, and of fmall Orthoceratites, transformed, as ufual,
into a calcareous fpar of faline grain.
م
+
*
Though there are many houfes at Gelfa, and a good number
of perfons dreſt in our faſhion, have habitations there, yet I
could not find proviſions for myſelf, and boat's crew, for money;
and I was obliged to paſs the night on board of my boat.
The
A
4
[ 337 ]
?
Σ
The village of S. Georgio, fituated on the eastern point of
the iſland, is in itſelf not remarkable. The only motive that
-di
`cán` induce a traveller to go there, is to fee a large quantity
of Roman urns,” which at a Imall diſtance from the ſhore lie in
heaps, or ſcattered in the bottom of the fea, where they have
remained fourteen ages at leaſt. In fome of them the makers
name may be read, when the cruft, with which they are cover-
ed, of Efcare and other polipous fubftances, is taken away.
They appear to be of the good times.
}
3
As the iſland of Lefina is the most populous of any in the
Adriatick, fo it is the richest for variety of products, and all of
excellent quality. It produces wine, oil, figs, almonds, faffron,
and honey in no fmall quantity; the flat ground produces alfo
corn, but not in any meaſure proportioned to the number of in-
habitants. The mild climate agrees very well with the aloes,
of which the threads might be uſefully employed in fishing
tackle, after the example of the Americans and the French.
The palm trees, orange trees, and carobs thrive very well; and
it would be worth the while to encourage the multiplication of
mulberry trees there, as well as in the other iſlands, and the
littoral parts of Dalmatia, where the foil is proper for them.
Firewood is alſo an object of trade to the Lefignani, buf it
goes on decreaſing from year to year, through the little econo-
my uſed in cutting the woods, and by reducing the ground
into tillage. Wool, ſheep, and cheeſe bring a fmall fum of
money annually into the iſland; but the moft confiderable arti-
cle exported from thence, is falt fiſh, which deferves to be pro-
tected, and refieved from publick impofts, as well as private
oppreffions; that the number of fiſhermen may increaſe, and
that they may find their account in bringing their fish to mar-
X X
>
K
}
f
2.
ket
1
[ 338 ]
Ret at Venice, which, fince the beginning of this age, has paid a
heavy tribute to the northern fifhers. If only the half of the
money that the nation annually ſpends in unwholeſome pitchers
were diffuſed in Dalmatia, the whole province would feel a con-
fiderable benefit, and the publick revenue would be agumented.
The fiſhing at Lefina was in former times of greater confequence
than it is at prefent; and then it was perhaps true, that all
Italy, and a good part of the Levant, were provided with fardels
from thence, and the dependant iſland of Liffa, as Mr.. Bufching.
fays. Rakia is alfo a commodity of fome importance at Lefina,.
as well as in the other Illyric iflands, and on the fea coaft of
Dalmatia; but the capital reaps little advantage from this alfo;
becauſe the economical regulations, concerning the products of
that vaft and fertile province, are all equally ill directed.
1
Of the Iland of BRAZZA.
و
This ifland never was, as far as we can conjecture, inhabited
by a people of any fame: Scilax only just mentions it, by the-
name of Karia, Cratia, Polybius by that of BexTia, Brectia ::
Licophron calls it Kpadis,, Crathi; Pliny, Atoninus, and Peu-
tinger Brattia, Porphyrogenitus Bapt?w, Barzo; and ftyles it:
and Lefina as xanλisas, y εupoрwтαтas, very beautiful and fertile.
It is thirty-two miles in length, of unequal breadth, but never
exceeds nine miles. The inhabitants affert, that, in old times,
there was a city in the place, now called Scrip; but it ſeems
ſtrange, that all the Greek and Latin geographers have paffed
that city over in filence, fuppofing it actually to have exifted.
Bufching has given this iſland a town for its capital, by the name
of Brazza, and has alſo placed a Biſhop to refide there, though
there is actually no town of that name, nor a Biſhop's refidence
On
[ 339 ]
on the iſland, and the place that ought to be reckoned the ca-
pital is Nerefi, where the governor, who has the title of Count,
ufually refides, as being the moft convenient fituation for the
adminiſtration of juſtice to the iſlanders. The celebrated geo-
grapher above mentioned, has thrown together a good number
of little blunders in the few words he fays concerning this ifland.
They are, "Brazza, Bractia, takes its name from the town
"Brazza, where a Biſhop refides. The Venetian Count, or
governour has his habitation at S. Pietro, a place fituated on
"the weft fide of the iſland near the port of Milna." To the
actual miſtakes compriſed in the firſt words, it must be added,
that S. Pietro, is not on the weſt of the iſland, nor near the
port of Milna. *
Xx 2
Brazza
* Mr. Buſching muft either have been ill ferved by his correſpondents, or have
copied from bad originals, when he wrote of Dalmatia. I had not that volume
of his work under my eye till late, and therefore could not point out the princi
pal inaccuracies in their proper place. I proteſt that I am not actuated by the
leaft degree of malice against that very deferving man; every writer is but too
much fubject to want of exactnefs. But I conclude that I am doing a real fervice,
not only to Mr. Bufching, but to his readers, by advertising them of fome nota-
ble miſtakes, which it would be well, if fomebody took the trouble of correcting
province by province. It is not true that the Dalmatians (No. LI. p. 75. ed. of
Florence) are Greeks by nation and religion; a part of them indeed follow the Greek
rite, but not the largeſt part. Nona is ftill a heap of ruins, and fo far from
being a good fortress (page 76) that it can ſcarcely be called a walled town.
Vrana (p. 77) far from being one of the most delicious places in Dalmatia, is a fright--
ful heap of rubbish, neither inhabited, nor habitable. Knin (p. 78) is watered
by the river Butimfchiza, not by the Bolifniza, and is not the feat of a Bishop.
Dernies (p. 79) is not a city of little confequence, but a poor village; and the cathe-
dral of Sebenico is not in the caftle. Nor is Cliffa a city, (p. 80) neither does the
road that leads into Turkey, pafs near that fort through a valley, but on the fide
☛f a mountain. Salona was not fituated in a beautiful plain, but at the foot,
and
ť
340 1
A
Brazza is altogether mountainous and rocky, and, in the high-
eft parts of it, there are large tracts of land quite ftoney, fcarce-
ly fit to bear juniper and other plants that grow in barren places.
It cofts great fatigue to reduce the ground to tillage, and yet
thoſe inhabitants go on from year to year, increafing their cul-
tivated land, and confequently their product of wine, diminiſh-
ing their woods and flocks. The ftoney nature of the foil, and
the ſcarcity of ſprings of freſh water ſubject the iſland to fatal
droughts.
The principal place of Brazza, is Nerefi, fo called, by Greek
derivation, from the refervoirs of water near it. This is the
place of refidence of the governor, and where the publick meet-
ings are held; the gentry of Brazza repair thither at fet times,
from the maritime places, where they have their habitations.
The fituation of Nerefi is not pleaſant, though the only good
lands in the iſland lie immediately before it. The road to it,
from the ſea fhore, is exceedingly rough and wild; the air con-
tinues rigid after the fpring feafon; and the winter, they ſay, is
intenſely
and on the fide of a hill; nor did the brook Salona paſs through it, but a river of.
that name paffed by the outer fide of it. I forbear to mention many other fmaller
blunders, corruption of names, and errors in pofition, which would make a long
catalogue. But I am ſurpriſed that not only in treating of Dalmatia, but alfo of
fome of the moft confiderable and beft known cities in Italy, he fhould write ri-
diculous extravagancies. One, among many others, is concerning Venice (p.
29.) ſecured againſt famine by the fishes, which the inhabitants may catch ſtanding at the
doors of their houſes; it is alſo a ſhame not to know the value of our ducat, and
and to fix it at . 7 as it was in old times. Concerning Padua, Vicenza, Ve-
rona and other cities of Lombardy, Mr. Bufching fpeaks with the fame inad.
vertency, placing, for example, a chain of mountains between Vicenza and Padua,
where the fette Comuni inhabit, who cultivate the vines. How can we believe him
when he talks of the Terra Auftralis?
P. 441.
{
Piece of Fofail bone, & teeth, from the Island of Ofero.
J.Lodge Sculp.
[ 341 ]
intenfely cold. The country enjoys fome beautiful points of
view, but the pleaſure they can give cofts too dear. Nerefi has
been more confiderable in the times of incurfions and piracies ;-
and hence it ſtill preferves a kind of primacy, becauſe the prin-
cipal iſlanders retired thither; but now, fince the places near the
fea may be fafely inhabited, it has left much of its population,
and deſerted houſes are falling into ruins on all fides. Bol is no
inconfiderable town, and S. Giovanni, S. Pietro, and Pucifchie
are large villages full of induſtrious and trading people. The
hills above Nerefi, which form as it were the back bone of the:
iſland, are quite fterile, and produce nothing but fome juniper,»
and wild pine, of the ſplinters of which they make a little trade
for the uſe of the nocturnal fiſhing. The iſland of Brazza affords
great variety of ftones. The moft. ordinary kinds are; whitifh
common marble, breccia, and marble containing orthoceratites
and lenticulares. Of the firſt ſpecies, the ancient quarries are to
be ſeen from whence the materials were taken to build the palace
of Dioclefian. In the fame place, aſcending a little towards the
hills, there is a marble of a black fubftance, full of marine bo-
dies, changed into white faline fpar. There is alſo a vein of
white ſtone, ſoft, when newly extracted from its native-bed, but,
after being expoſed to the air, it becomes hard, and fucceeds-
much better than the too foft and farinaceous ftones of Coftag-
gia, and S. Gottardo in the Vicentine. The fame kind of ftone
is found at S. Giovanni, and at. Pucifchie; that is, at the two
oppoſite extremities of the island. In other times there was a
mine of Pilafphaltus,, if we may believe Tomeo, Marnavich;
but I could not find any veftige of it, only my learned friend.
Guilo Bajamonti fhewed me at Spalatro, a piece of calcareous
gray ſtone, emitting an offenfive fmell, full of diftinguishable
marine bodies, and different from all the other bituminous ftones
❤
•
•
A
L
that:
T 342 ]
that I had feen in Dalmatia, and told me that it was known by
the ſtone cutters, under the name of Pietra Pegolotta, i. e. pitchy
ftone; it was found at Pucifchie. In the neighbourhood of the
village of S. Pietro are found, within the hard ftone, befides
the Nummali, many Echnites, and Pectinites; and above the har-
bour of Poſtire, there is a ſpecies of gray, compact whetstone
without marine bodies, which breaks in lamina, like flints. At
S. Giovanni there are fungites and concha diphiæ, among
the cera-
tamorphous petrifactions.
The product, for which this iſland was known among the an-
cients, continues ftill in its primitive perfection; Pliny diftin-
guiſhes it, above the others, for the excellence of its kids.* And
in fact, not only the kids, but alſo the lambs acquire a particu-
lar exquifiteneſs of taſte, by the paſture of that iſland, and the
milk with which they are nouriſhed far exceeds that of the
neighbouring countries. Hence the cheeſe of Brazza is highly
eſteemed in Dalmatia, and wherever it is known. The ſheep,
however, have been almoſt univerſally ſubſtituted in place of the
goats, by thoſe iſlanders, as being lefs hurtful to the woods, of
which the goats are great deſtroyers. Generally fpeaking, the
the wool of Brazza is not good: but the flocks of Count Giuſep-
Evelio muſt be excepted, he having introduced a race of fo-
reign ſheep upon his lands at Pucifchie, and caufing them to be
kept with greater attention than is uſual in thoſe parts. The
fame gentleman has not only improved his own lands, by refor-
ming the abuſes in the management of cattle, and in agriculture,
but has alſo rouſed ſome of his neighbours to follow his laudable
example. The bee-hives, vines, and olive plantations, which
belong
pe
Capris laudata Brattia. Plin. L. III. c. xxvi.
[ 343 ]
ble ones.
belong to him, are fo many proofs of his ufeful application to eco-
nomical ſtudies, which he alfo knows how to mix with agreea-
The bee-hives of the ifland are made of marble flabs
well luted, or cemented in the joinings; the upper flab is move-
able, and a weight of ftones is laid on it, to keep it from being
moved by the wind; the aperture before, by which the bees
pafs, is very fmall. There are great numbers of bee-hives in the
fame place, and Count Evelio, poffeffes fome hundreds. He
ufes all poffible diligence, that the bees may neither want water
nor food, the two principal calamities to which the hives of the
ifland are expoſed.
Notwithſtanding the ſtoney foil of Brazza it produces a great
quantity of wine, which is generally held as the beſt in Dalma-
tia; this article, fire wood, and ſheep, form the principal reve-
nue of the Brazzani. The iſland alfo produces oil, figs, al-
monds, filk, faffron, and a little corn. The Lentifcus grows
there in great plenty, and the poor peaſants make oil of the ber-
ries, when there is ſcarcity of olives. I got a ſpecimen of that:
oil from a gentleman of the country, and made trial of it in
dreffing victuals, but could not accuſtom myſelf to its ftrong
fmell. The neceffaries of life may be purchaſed in the iſland at
a very low price, and fome of the delicacies may be had for lit-
tle money; ordinarily three beccafichi are fold for a Venetian fol,.
and all the reſt in proportion. The fiſhing makes alſo no incon-
fiderable article, though far inferiour to that of Lefina and Liffa;
nor are the waters about Brazza much. frequented by particular
kinds of fiſh.
The neighbouring iſlands of Solta, the Oxula of Scilax, and.
called Solentum in the Peutingerian table, may be confidered as a
continuation
[ 344 ]
1
-
}
continuation of Brazza, though it does not depend on the fame
governour, being fubject to Spalatro, both in civiland ecclefiaftical
caſes. It is divided from Brazza only by a ſmall rock inhabited
by řabits. Solta is about twenty-four miles round; but contains
few inhabitants, being almoft quite covered with woods, in
which many vipers are propagated, as well as in thofe of Brazza.
Its honey is remarkably good, and in no reſpect inferiour to that
of Spain or Sicily.
ť
}
譬
​{
>
'
1
Of the Iſland of ARBE in the Gulf of QUARNÀRO.
}
16.
P
? 4
It is a terrible geographical leap from the iſland of Brazza to
that of Arbe, at leaſt a hundred and twenty miles diftant." But
300 al
what can I fay? travellers by fea ſometimes make fuch leaps. I
have already wrote what little I was able to obferve concerning
the leſſer iſlands in the fea of Sebinico, and Zara, and of Cher-
fo, and Ofero I have faid more, perhaps, than difcretion requir-
ed; I only touched at the other iſlands of the Quarnaro in paf-
fing; and Arbe is the only one of which I can fay fomething
not altogether uſeleſs.
!
'
1
ال
2
13.
***This ifland was little known by the ancient geographers; yet
it is named by Pliny, Peutinger, and Porphyrogenitus; in Ptolo-
~my, through fome miſtake of the tranfcribers, whereby the text
has been altered, the island is called Exapdava, Scarduna; and
two cities are attributed to it, Arba, and Colento. The people
of Arbe, having ground to believe that there actually were two
• cities on their iſland, adhere to the corrupted text of this geogra-
pher, by which their noble ifland is confounded with the unculti-
**yated-and deſert island of Scarda, contiguous to the island of Pago.
In the Roman times, it is probable, that there were no other
A
cities
+
[ 345 ]
cities in Arbe, but that which bears the name of the iſland, in
the neighbourhood of which ancient monuments are frequently
dug up.
I vifited the pretended ruins of Colento, but could dif-
cover nothing elſe but the remains of a place of refuge, built in
barbarous times, thro' the fear and weakneſs of the inhabitants.
Nor is it poffible that reaſonable men would have eftablished a
place of conftant habitation in fuch a fpot; for a more difmal
fterile, cold, and windy fituation, even in the heat of ſummer,
could not be found. It is, moreover, evident, by the conſtruc
tion of the walls, that the work was done in great hafte; and
the veftiges of the gates diſcover the meanest architecture; there
is not one hewn ftone in the ancient taſte, no fragment of in-
feriptions, nor a piece of fine marble.
The plans of the houſes
do not feem to have
they are fo nar-
or cottages contained within the walls,
been defigned for the habitations of families,
row, and inconvenient. If I was an Arbegian, I would look out
for the vestiges of fome other city that might do more honour to
the founders of it.
The city of Arbe, though the capital of a ſmall iſland, not
above thirty miles round, wholly uncultivated, and uninhabitable
in the higheſt part that faces the channel of Morlacca, has al-
ways maintained itſelf with decorum. That it was inhabited
by civilized people in the Roman times, is evident, by the in-
fcriptions that have been frequently difcovered there, fome of
which are now in the collection of the noble Venetian Jacopo
Nani, and others ftill remain at Arbe.
In the lower times it
fuffered all the calamities to which the neighbouring countries
were ſubjected, but it always recovered itſelf with honour even
after diffolution.
Y Y
The
}
[346]
The archives of the community of Arbe contain fome ancient
papers that are truly valuable, and they are kept with great jea-
loufy; by them it appears, that, in the eleventh century, gold
and filk were not rare among the inhabitants. Arbe was ſubject
to the kings of Hungary, afterwards it became dependant on
Venetian feudatories, and, at laſt, was taken under the imme-
diate dominion of the moft ferehe republick, by which a go-
vernor is appointed who has the title of count and captains that
dignity was held, when I was there, with great honour, rectis.
tude, and prudence, by Signor Tommaſo Barozzi, who waste,
qually beloved and refpected by the inhabitants. The number.
of people on the iſland does not much exceed three thouſand foulsy.
diſtributed in a few parishes, which might be officiated by a
fmall number of priests. Yet, through a monftrous inconfiftency,
that falls very heavy, on the poor inhabitants, they have to man-
tain no less than three convents of friars, and as many of nuns,,
befides the confiderable charge of near fixty priefts, who have a.
very ſcanty provifion. This numerous clergy is governed by
Monfignore Giannantonio Dall' Oftia, a very learned and worthy
prelate, adorned with all the good qualities, and focial virtues,
that conftitate a true and refpectable philofopher.
J
01
C
L
、
}
aleyh
„Vrsteɔwory lêdieguole dar sul on 200t tuerun
>The climate of Arbe is none of the happieft; the winter fea
fon is horrid, especially when agitated by the violent northerly,
winds, which fometimes transform the intermediate feafons into
winter, and cauſe the fummer itself to disappear. Theſe furious.
winds do great damage to the ifland, particularly in the winter.
and fpring. Two years ago, about twelve thouſand ſheep periſh-
ed in one night, of cold, in the common paftures of the moun-
tain ; where, according to the cuſtom over all Dalmatia, they are
left in the open air the whole year round, The falt fog raiſed
{
by
1
[ 347 ]
by the dreadful commotion of the waves, which often roars,
between the mountain of Arbe and the oppofite alps, in the nar-
row channel of Morlacca, confumes all the buds of the plants
and corn, if it happens to be drove upon the iſland by the wind;
and it is followed by a cruel fcarcity of every kind of product.,
This calamity communicates its baneful influence even to the
fleſh of the animals left on the paſtures, that becomes ill-tafted,
in-confequence of the bitterness, and bad nourishment of the
food. Abſtracting from theſe irregularities, the air of Arbe is
healthful, nor ought the conftant fummer fevers among the in-
habitants to be attributed to its influence, as they are, more
probably, derived from unwholeſome food, and a way of life
differing little from that of the Hottentots.
i
་
5
J
?
* 1
1
人
​I
The appearance of the iſland is exceedingly pleaſant, nor do I
know another in Dalmatia, that, in this refpect, can be com-
pared to it. On the caft it has a very high mountain, of the
fame fubftance as the Morlacca, of which it was once a part.
At the foot of this mountain, the reft of the ifland is extended.
to the weſtward, and divided into beautiful and fruitful plains,
interſperſed with little hills, fit to bear the richest products. At
the extremity, that looks, to the north, a delightful promontory,
called Loparo, ſtretches into the fea; it is crowned with little
hills, which almoſt quite enclofe a fine cultivated plain. Near
this promontory are the two fall iſlands of S. Gregorio, and
Goli, very ufeful to thepherds and fiſhers): The coaſt of Arbe,
that faces the Morlacca mountains, is quite ſteep, and inaccef
fible and the channel between them is extremely dangerous,
being expofed to furious winds, and without a fingle port on
either fide.¨“The long, and narrow iſland of Dolin, lying paral-
lel to the island of Arbe, along the coast of Barbado, forms a
channel
fut aled
Yy 2
[ 348 ]
channel leſs dangerous, though by no means. fo fecure as it is
beautiful to look at. There are feveral harbours in the neigh
bourhood of the city of Arbe, by which the trade of the beſt
part of the island is facilitated.
' '
t 1
་
X
་
ཀ་
仕​様
​7
A
The city ftands on a rifing ground between two harbours,
which form a peninfula; it contains about a thouſand inhabi-
tants, among whom are many noble families, but few of them
are rich. The principal are the De Dominis, from which fprung
the famous Archbiſhop of Spalatro, Marc Antonio; the Galzig-
the Nemira, of whom, in the fifteenth century, an Anto-
nio is praifed, by Pallanio Fofco, as an excellent mathematician
though he learned tha fcience of himself, without a maſter
the Spalatini, who receive freſh luftre from the preſent Bishop of
Corzola, refpectable for his purity of manners, no less than for
his learning and the Zudenighi..
na;
}
MOL
13,
प
1
>
J
L
ร
‚aqmbuisomu all are we do Law Ostroom de to got an a
Among the most remarkable curiofities of the inland, the Ar
begiani are proud of many egregious reliques, and particularly of
the head of S.
of S. Criftofano, their protector; but the lovers of
acred antiquity will find ſomething much more fingular in the
three heads of Shadrach, Meshach and Abednego, which are ve-
nerated there, with great devotion. Four of the principal gentle-
men are keepers of the fanctuary, and to their care the precious
records of the city are alfo committed. Among theſe records
there is a tranfaction of MXVIII, by which the city of Arbe
promiſes to the Doge of Venice, Ottone Orfeolo, a tribute of
ſome pounds de feta ferica, of wrought filk, and in cafe, of con-
travention, pounds de auro obrizo, of pure gold..
JDOL
}
{
}
'.
In
[ 349 ]
n
In the last age there was a learned Bishop of Arbe, named
Ottavio Spaderi, who would not permit the reliques of S. Clifto-
fano to be expoſed to the publick veneration, on the folemnity of
the faint's day, becauſe he doubted of their authenticity. The
mob rofe, and was going to throw him down from the top
of the hill on which the cathedral ftands; nor did the tumult
ceafe after the day was paft. The goverment fent an armed veffel
to deliver the prelate from the danger he was in ; and the Pope
thought proper to give him a more tractable fpoufe in Italy.
grate bu
-
1
ས
Ja
J
}
Cat eda
GE
The nature of the foil of Arbe is not the fame in every fitua
tion may it would be difficult to find a country where there is fo
great a variety in fo little ſpace. There is a very great difference
between the ground of the extremity of the mountain, above the
channel of Barbado, and the fides of it, on the one part towards
the iſland, and on the other facing the ridge of Morlacca. Nor
is the top of the mountain itſelf always of the fame ftructure, for
wedenom
in fome parts it is extended in a fine level plain, partly woody,
and partly cultivable; in other places it is quite rocky, and
compoſed of bare marble. The ground at the foot of the moun-
tain, where it ftretches towards the ſhore, oppofite to Jablanaz
is nothing but marble and, in the diftrict of Barbado, if 15 s
it is gra-
velly; and a good foil for vines. The ſmall ſtones there are an-
gular, having been a little rounded by the waters which depofited
them; and their most ancient ftrata go on hardening under-
ground, by the filtration of the rain water. The wine of Bar-
bado is of excellent quality, and in great eftimation; hardly any
other product is cultivated along that coaft, as the vines fucceed
fo well, notwithſtanding the negligent culture. Below the pre-
tended ruins of Colento the land bears vines, olives, mulberry,
and other fruit trees, and alfo corn in the loweſt parts. All the
い
​1013
lower
[350]
lower part of the iſland is compofed alternatively of little hills
and vallies, and of a ſubſtance, for the moſt part, very different
from that of the mountain, and its adjacencies. As the organiza-
tion of the mountain is wholly of marble, fo that of the hills is
generally arenaceous. The whetstone forms a large part, and
frequently contains Oftraciles, and Lenticulares; the exteriour
ftratum is commonly friable. The vallies, which, according to
appearances, ſhould be full of fand, are provided with an ex-
cellent foil, with ſuch a mixture of very minute fand, as is re-
quifite to keep it light. Springs of freſh water, are by nature
well diſtributed over the ifland, and maintain a proper humidity
when the fummer is not exceffively. dry; fo that the dark verdure
of the hills covered with wood, the luxuriance of the vines, and
freſhneſs of the corn ground, form a fpectacle extremely chearful
and agreeable.
+
}}
>
231
ali
The iſland of Arbe would have every thing requifite for the
ſubſiſtence of its ſmall population, if the land was cultivated by
a people lefs ftupid and lazy. It produces, however, firewood,
of which many cargoes are annually fent to Venice; corn, oil,
excellent wine, brandy, and filk, fince very ancient times; they
feed the filk worms with the leaves of the black mulberry; it
alfo exports hides, wool, fheep, hogs, and horfes of a good
breed. There is alſo abundance of good falt made on the iſland;
and the fishing of tonny, mackrel, lanzardi, and fardels, not-
withſtanding it is managed in a flovenly and awkward manner,
makes no inconfiderable article of trade to the Arbegiani, who,
like all their neighbours, find their account in felling this com-
modity to ftrangers, rather than to the Venetians. Yet, with
all theſe natural products, the island is very far from being rich,
>
A
1
or
[ 351. ]
or even in a tolerably flouriſhing ſtate; becauſe there is much:
land left uncultivated, and the peaſants are lazy.
t
r
$
1
In making my obfervations concerning the foffil hiftory of the
iſland of Arbe, I found fome things that appeared very
A
{
}
}
L
f
very curious.
The fummit of the mountain is almoſt plain, as I faid before,.
and in fome places is depreffed like a bafon. I examined with
diligence the maffes of marble, that are fcattered there depen-
dently from the ftrata, and found, without any furpriſe indeed,.
having frequently met with the fame thing, that the greatest part.
were breccia; and was pleafed, that my opinion about the ancient.
ſtate of the mountains in thofe parts acquired ftill greater force.
One thing I met with on thoſe heights was new to me, and that
was, very large tracts of minute fand, mixed with an iron ochre-
ous earth, depoſited in very regular ſtrata, juſt like thofe that are
formed by the inundations of our large rivers. I examined, with
the microſcope, that fand, fo ftrangely fituated on the top of a.
mountain, in an ifland, and found it to conftſt of quartz,' andi
manifeftly produced by the trituration of matter ſeparated from.
7
7
mineral mountains.
C
$
}
dhe
-
iner
You, my learned Friend, will certainly not cenfure me, if I
affert pofitively, that the arenaceous quartz is produced by
the trituration of mountain ſtones carried down by torrents, and
pulverized by a conftant friction in following the courfe of rivers.
Our waters of Lombardy, and particularly the Po, leave no room
to doubt of this fact, and reafon alone might convince a man,
who had never ſeen the banks of great rivers at a diſtance from.
their ſources. The naturalifts of the north, and among them.
the celebrated Wallerius, who certainly well deferves his fame,.
in order, I fuppofe, not to engage themſelves in reſearches, the
1
cone-
[ 352 ]
1
confequences of which might carry an appearance of contradic-
tion to the opinions refpected concerning the age of the world,
tock the expedient to allow a ftrange kind of pre-exiſtence to
fand, and to infer that ftones were generally formed from it;
which feems much the fame as to fay that flower exifted before
wheat. * It appears to me unaccountable, that the learned
man, after having recited the opinion of Ariftotle, and other
ancients, about the origin of fands, afcribed by them to the
mountains, and pulverifed ftones; and, after being forced to
confefs, that, to a part of them, no other origin could be af
figned, fhould be frightened at the great quantity, and fituation
of both the fubterraneous and fubaqueous fands, and hence con-
ceive an obſtacle to the eſtabliſhment of the ancient rational
opinion. It is very true, that the aggregate ftones (among
which I place whetſtones of the fineſt grain) owe their formation
immediately to the concretion of fand, or minute gravel: but
this does not prove, that fands do not proceed from the com-
minution of ſtones. Would not a man be reckoned a very pre-
pofterous reaſoner, who, taking up a handful of the fand of
the Po, ſhould turn to the mountains from whence that great
river defcends, and fay, "now I comprehend of what the
mountains are formed!" inftead of faying, "I comprehend from
whence the fands are formed." The opinion of Wallérius, con-
}
}
{
+
cérning
* Arenæ―ufum præflant æqualem ut aliæ terræ in eo quod originem præbeant lapidibus,
& montibus; unde & patet arenam effe faxo priorem. Wall. Syft. Mineral, 1772.
pag. 101. & pag. 107. Obf. 2. Vétat tamen ingens quantitas, nec non fitus arenæ
tam fubterraneus, quam fubaquofus, ut hoc de omni arena dici poffit—Plurimos montes
ab arena concretos facilius demonftrari poteft quam arenam ab his deftructis eſſe
ertam.
[ 353 ]
""
{
cerning the generation of fand, muft, at leaſt, appear fingular
to thoſe, who know that it agrees exactly in fubitance and ex
tenfion with the ftrata of calcareous ftones, and quartz, from
which it naturally ought to be derived. We are told by him,
page 108, obf. 5. that," probably the quartz fands have been
from, the beginning generated by a viscous, or gelatinous mat-
ter generated by the waters, and mixed with them, then fuc-
ceffively divided into grains, afterwards condenfed, and harden-
"ed" He endeavours to prove this; genefis, by, the fiffures
which are diſcovered by the microſcope, in' the ſmall atoms of
fand, and the adheſion of metallick particles to thefe grains;
"though, it may be demonftrated by an eafy experiment, that a
pięce of quartz taken from any mine, well pulverifed under the
hammer, and afterwards washed in water, gives grains of fand,
in, which may be ſeen the fame fiffures and metallick particles,
which appear, by means of a glafs, in the fand quartz under
water, i or under ground, depofited by ancient waters. After alk
this, is it not fomewhat extraordinary, that the learned Walle
rius will hardly allow that calcareous fandris produced by (parry,
and calcareous ftones pulverifed, (p. 109) and with difficulty
fays, that probably it proceeds from them. If that great man
had fet himself to make a new theory for calcareous fand like
wife, he would perhaps have called in queftion the origin of the
largoft gravel, and even of the maffes that roll fometimes from
the top to the bottom of mountains; and who knows how many
other new things he might have faid?
}
1
}
In the fmall fand on the top of the mountain, at a place call-
eḍ Crazzich, there are ſome ſcattered Heaps; and alſo ſome per-
pendicular veins of geodes, fo compact and heavy, as to deferve a
place among rich iron minerals. In old times, the back of the
Zaz
mountain
*
[ 354 ]
1
mountain was covered with elm trees; and from the fide of it,
that looks to Loparo, the rain waſhed down to the fea fhore
that kind of quartzofe, very minute fand, known by the ftone
cutters, and glaziers, by the name of Saldame. It is probable,
that Pliny,* ſpoke of this fituation, where he fays, that, for
fawing marble, there was found a good fpecies of fand in a ſhal-
low bay in the Adriatick, which at low water, remained dry.
That part of the fhore, which lies at the foot of the rough ſtoney
hill, ſtill called Verch od Mela, the hill of fand, though there
is no fand on it now, is all of faldame, as are feveral other ſpots
on the iſland, where the fea beats against the roots of fandy hills.
This is one of thofe cafes calculated to embarraſs future natu-
ralifts: though it is a cafe that has happened before, as you will
fee by reading a little further. The fand, which occupied the
fuperficies of the mountain, where, upon ftrata of orthoceratitic
marble, and breccia of very ancient origin, it had been depofited
by feas, or ancient rivers, (which feems more probable, as it
has no veftiges of marine bodies) is now carried down by the
rains from its former refidence, and mixed with the teftaceous
bodies of a new fea, which produces not fand of a like natúre,
by deſtroying the littoral calcareous hills, Who knows in what
fpace of time this fand may become petrified, together with the
marine bodies, and in how long a ſpace after, it may form
the baſe of new hills. It fhould feem that this fpecies of
fand came from very diftant parts; as no mineral hills exiſt
along our Adriatick; and that it has undergone other revolutions
before the preſent. In the hill, on which the city of Arbe
ſtands, the whetstone has this fand for its baſe, and in feveral
places
* Pliny, L. XXXVI. cap. vi.
P. 454.
Fig.1.
:
Fig.2.
+
חון
A
༄་འ{་་༦
-
-
ས
F.Lodge Scalp
[ 355 ]
*
places, it contains a prodigious quantity of lenticulares, which
are, as every body knows, productions of a ftill unknown fea;
the porpita, deſcribed by Linnæus as their original, not agree-
ing with them. In the hills of Laparo, are frequently found
foffil nummali, ſcattered in the fand ſcarcely indurated, fo that
the eventual waters feparate them, and carry them away. In
theſe arenaceous hills, which the contiguous fea is deſtroying by
little and little, are alſo frequently found exotic echinites, of va-
rious fpecies and fizes; and likewife on the banks of the port of
Arbe, oppofite to the city. Near the port of Campera, and at
port Domich, the quartzofe fand ftone of the hills contains vaft
quantities of oftracites, and foffil nummali. It is evident, that
theſe hills are of poſterior formation to that of the mountain:
yet notwithstanding, they must be very ancient, as they contain
petrifactions ftrangers to our feas, and to the preſent climates!
In the hill where the Arbegiani have their pleaſant walk, there
are, in the whetſtone, irregular ſmall pieces of flint and jaſper,
in which marine fragments are fometimes feen. I would not,
however, draw the conclufion that Wallerius does (p. 305)
"Hence it is evident, that there are alfo Deluvian jafpers gene-
"rated by fluid matter, that can receive and enclofe within
"them extraneous bodies." The repeated obfervations made
on the changes of which ftones are fufceptible, have convinced
me, that, for the moſt part, neither flints nór jaſpers have ever
been in a fluid ſtate; and I have in my poffeffion a ſmall feries
of foffil productions of the Euganean hills, collected with my
own hands, from which much light may be drawn, relative to
the genesis of this clafs of ftones.
Zz2
The
* Caroli Linnæi Amæn. Acad. T. i. pag. 177. De coralliis Balthicis Fig 5.
b. T. iv. p. 257. Chinenfia Lagerftromiana. Fig. 7, 8, 9.
t
{
77
[ 336 ]
}
The breccia of the mountain of Arbe takes a fine poliſh; it is
uſually ſtreaked with white, and united by a very lively red
cement. The pieces which compoſe it are angular, and of finé
marble. As I have ventured already to fay fomething againſt the
opinions of Wallerius, concerning the generation of fand, I can-
not help confeffing to you, that his theory of the aggregate
ftones appears to me ſtill more ſtrange, and contrary to phyfical·
obfervations. I do not mean to raiſe myſelf by cenfuring that
great naturaliſt; and only defire that you will excufe me if I do
not admire him on this point, as I really do on fo many others.
He fays, * "that it hardly feems poffible to him, that the faxa;
"and ftones, compofing the aggregate ftrata,' could have muru-
ally conglutinated, if they had not been of a fofter confiftences
"as the conglutinate matter could never find entrance into perfect-
""
ง
ly hard ftones." Hence he concludes, "Ift, That the fracture.
"of the ftones has been operated in the moment of their defic-
“cation, and induration, by the reſpective attraction of the par-
"ticles, by compreffion or precipitation, or fome other fimilar
"caufe. 2d, That thefe aggregate ftones adhered together, to
"form one body, while they were yet in a ſoft ſtate. 3d, That
"this union, or adherence was at least begun in fubterranean
"places, where the fractures were executed; it ſeeming impof-
"fible, that any generation, or ftoney-conglutination can be made
"in the open air. 4th, That the conglutination being begun, or
perfected, theſe ftones have been thrown out upon the ſuper-
“ ficies of the earth, and mountains, by fome prodigious force..
"In a word, that the fracture of the materials, and the begin-
ning of their conglutination have been antediluvian, and the pre-
*fence of faxa and conglutinated ftones on the ſurface of the earth,
46
48
and
* Wall, Syft. Min. p. 431. obf. 2. ed. cit,
[ 357 ]
f
" and mountains, diluvian." I fhall not at prefent take notice
of the impropriety of the words implying glue, which has cer-
tainly nothing to do in calcareous or vitrefcent aggregates, form-
ed by crystallization or tartarization, and by fufion fometimes
more, and fometimes lefs perfect. The four propofitions of
Wallerius are contradicted by fact; and as to the firit, it is a
certain truth, that the angular finall ftones, of which the breccia
are formed, are confufed and mixed together, and various in
their compofition, infomuch that they cannot even be fufpected
of ancient continuity. Befides, the breccie that we fee formed at
the bottoms of mountains, and by the fides of torrents, mani-.
feftly fhew us the mechanifm which nature makes ufe of to join
them together. Nor is it credible that the ftones, which com-
pofe the breccia, have been foft at the time they were congefted
together. One needs only break fome pieces of breccia, to fee
that each ſmall ftone ftands by itfelf; and it often happens, that
they may be feparated one by one, when the cement, which keeps
them united, is not fufficiently hardened into ftone. If they had
been foft at the moment of coagmentation, the one muſt fre-
quently have penetrated the other, which is never feen. The
third affertion is inadvertent in every reſpect; fince, by examin-
ing the aggregate ftones, by means of water, it is very plain,
that they could not poffibly be united under ground, asimay
have been the cafe with thofe which owe their production tỏ
vulcanic fire. It fhows a fingular inattention to fay, that, in
the open air, it does not ſeem poffible for ſtoney fubftances to
be generated or hardened: as a quantity of Stalagmites are actu-
ally formed in places the most expofed to the air; and the ftoney
incrustations of the hot fprings grow daily in the open air, under
the eye of the obſerver. The fourth is abfolutely contrary to
matter of fact, as the breccia are found difpofed in vaft and te
:
[ 358 ]
gular ftrata, above other ftrata of lefs various compofition, but
of equally vaſt extenfion; nor can it be imagined, that a ſubter-
raneous force could throw them out, from the bowels of the
earth, without mixing and disjoining them a thouſand ways.
Befides, the diſtinction of the two periods antediluvian, and dilu-
vian, does not ſeem fatisfactory. According to his diluvian fyf-
tem, how will Wallerius account for the many petrifactions of
exotic marine bodies within the pebbles that compofe the bre-
cia?
{
{
<
,.
Breccia, however, is not the moft interefting or valuable mar-
ble furnished by the iſland of Arbe, and the two fall iflands
of S. Gregorio, and Goli contiguous to cape Laparo. "There is
great plenty of white ftatuary marble, the grain of which is ex-
actly like that uſed by the ancient Romans, which was not al-
ways Greek, as is commonly believed. It has not that white-
nefs of fnow, which paffes for a good quality in the marble of
Carrara,`and' which often deceives the ftatuary, as well as the
judges of his work. The perfect refemblance between the Ro-
man flatuary white marble, and that which is found at the foot
of the mountain of Arbe, towards Loparo, and in the two fmall
iſlands mentioned above; the ancient name of Loparo, which I
was told was found by ancient records ftill exifting in Arbe," to
have been Neoparos; the probability that the Romans, by going
to take the fand mentioned by Pliny, in the neighbouring fhal-
lows, might have diſcovered this marble, which is found there-
abouts in great abundance; the great quantity of broken angular
and irregular pieces of it ftill to be feen at the foot of the monte
della Salbia, though now the fuperficies is corroded by time, are
reafons, which induce me to believe, that there were ancient
marble quarries in this place, from whence the Roman ftatuaries
}
had
{
359 ]
had a part of their materials. The fubftance of the falutary mar-
ble of Arbe, is an aggregate of orthoceratites and nummali, of the
largeſt ſize; but, to diſcover them, it is neceſſary to examine
fome of thoſe broken corroded pieces, which I juft now took
notice of, for when the marble is fmooth, every vettige of extra-
neous bodies difappears; fo equally have the petrifactions been
perfected both in the ſubſtance and colour. In breaking fome
pieces of this ftatuary marble, I found it cryſtalized within, like
the other forts compriſed in the clafs of faline marble. This
diſcovery pleafed me more than any other obfervation I had hither-
to made; becauſe it appeared more immediately uſeful to the na-
tion, and the best calculated to free us from a confiderable an-
nual expence in the purchaſe of two large cargoes of Carrarefe
marble. And the diſcovery is fo much the more opportune, be-
cauſe we now receive no marble from Carrara of a good quality;
fince the Engliſh have eſtabliſhed an agent at Maffa, who buys
up for their account, all the pureft pieces, leaving, for the Ita-
lians, that, which is, veined, and foiled with the colour of aſhes,
which fucceeds very ill in ftatues, or in any other noble work.
In the waters of Arbe and Pago, I made many obſervations
on the marine phosphorus, of which I promiſe to give you an ac-
count, as foon as I have reduced them to fome degree of perfec-
tion. In the meantime, my learned Friend, accept of what I am
able to give you; and look upon this letter as a proof of my
friendship and veneration for you, who occupy fo eminent a
place among the naturalifts, and prove to the literati beyond.
the mountains, that, even in the prefent age, there lives among
us the genius of a Vallifnieri, and a Redi, who did fo much
honour to our Italy heretofore.
,
}
Obfervations
I 361 1
OBSERVATIONS
ON THE
Iland of CHERSO and OSERO.
Of the various ancient Names of the Island, and the Writers whe
THE
mention it.
HE iſland Cherfo and Ofero, for which I failed from Venice
about the middle of May 1770, in company with John
Symonds, Efquire, an Engliſh gentleman, and Dr. Dominico
Cirilli, profeffor of botany and natural hiſtory at Naples, un-
der the aufpices of the most generous patron of the fciences,
and of natural hiſtory in particular, is fituated in the rocky and
ftormy bay, which, by the ancients, was called Carnicus, Fla-
naticus, Polaticus, Liburnicus, and, in our days, is known by the
name of Quarnaro. The island lies between the coaft of Iftria
and Dalmatia, extending from north to fouth, fixty miles in
length, with a very unequal breadth. In more remote ages,
hiſtory of which is blended with fable, it was much known,
and had various names, the most ancient, however, feems to
have been the iſland Brigeide, or the iſlands Brigeida; but its
ufual name, almost three thousand years fince, was Apfirtides,
A a a
the
Apfirtus,
[ 362 )
Apfirtus, or Apfirtius. Scylax Cariandenus, the oldeſt of the
geo-
graphers of whom the works or fragments are now extant, and
who lived about 422 years before our era, knew it by the name
of Apfirtis; and, in his Periplus, leaves us the dimenſions of
it. *
66
66
Scymnus Chius, who lived 332 years after Scylax, fpeaks alfo,
and more diffufely of the Apfirtides, placing them together with
the Liburnian iſlands very properly, and very improperly with
the Electrides. He fays, "that, in the Adriatick fea, there are
many iſlands difpofed like Ciclades in an inward bay, of which
"fome are called Apfirtides, others Liburnian, and Electrides.'
He adds,
They fay that thoſe iſlands in a bay of the Adriatick
"are inhabited by near a hundred and fifty thoufand barbarians,
"who cultivate a rich and fertile foil. There the ewes often
"bring forth twins. Though near the Ponticum, the climate
"of theſe iſlands is different; neither fnow nor froft remains.
long on them, but the rains maintain the foil continually freſh
" and moiff; the fky is frequently darkened on a fudden, efpeci-
<<
<<
46
ally in the fummer days, and thunder, whirlwinds, and ty-
phons burſt out.”†'
'
Dyonfius
* Αψύρτις νῆσος ςαδίων τίς πλατος δέ ςκ. "The ifland Apfirtis, is cccx ftadii
"long, and cxx broad. Scyl. Cariand. in Periple. inter Geograph. min. ab Hud-
Jono collectos. And here it is obfervable, that Scylax gave the meaſure of this iſland
in preference to almost all the others, fhewing thereby, that he thought it of
greater conſequence. The unſkilfulnels of copifts has probably altered the nu-
merical figures, fince they by no means correſpond to the true length and breadth
of the Apfirtis; unless they were to be taken for the meaſures of only the half of
it, as far as the Euripus.
+ Τέτων δὲ τὰς λεγομένας Αψυρήδας,
Ηλεκτρίδας τε, τὰς δὲ και Λυβυρνίδας,
[ 363 ]
Dionyfius in his Periegefis, commented, fome ages after by Eu
ftathius, fays: “ The ilands of Aphrtus occupy a large fpace, and
"there the fons of Colchos refted after their long voyage.' "*
Strabo, has adopted the etymology which feems indicated by
Dionyfius, fpeaking of the Apfirtides, and fays, in his VIIth
book, near the coaft of which I have been treating, lie the
"iſlands of the Apfirtides, in which there is a report that Medea
"killed her own brother Apfirtus, who was purſuing her."
66
Befides the Greek geographers of the good times, other writ-
ers, both in verfe and profe, have taken notice of our ifland.
Orpheus, whore poem, upon the expedition of the Argonauts,
A aa 2
Τὸν κολπον ἱσοςῦσι τὸν ᾿Αδριαπκὸν
Τῶν Βαρβάρων πληθός τι περιόκειν κύκλῳ
Εκατὼν σχεδὸν μυριάσι πεντήκοντά τε,
Χώρὰν ἄρισην νεμομενες, κ καρπίμην.
Διδυμοτοκειν γάρ φασι καὶ τὰ θρέμματα.
᾿Αήρ διαλάσσων δὲ περὶ τὸν (*) ποντικὸν
Ἔσιν ύπερ αὐτὲς, καίπερ ὄντας πλησίον.
Οὐ γὰρ νιφετώδης, ἔτ᾽ ἄγαν ἐψυγμενος,
γρὸς δὲ παντάπασιν διὰ τέλος μένει
Οξύς ταραχώδης. ὧν τε πρὸς τὰς μεταβολάς,
ων
Μάλισα το θέρος δὲ πρητήρων τε,
an Κελτικόν
is
}
Βολὰς κεραυνῶν, τές τε λεγομένως έκει
Τύφωνας
Σκύμνο Χίος. in Periegefi. ap. eundem Hudfonum. v. 369. G.
See
Έξειης δε ποροιο προς αυγάς Ιονοιο
Αψύρτε νήσον ἀναφαίνεται ασπετὸς ὁλκὸς
Τάς ποτε κόλχων υιες ἐπέδραμον
Dionyf. Oeconom. Perieg. v. 487. & feq. Ibid.
+
η
+ Παρ' ὅλην ήν ειπον παραλίαν νῆσοι μὲν αἱ ᾿Αψυρτίδες, περὶ ἃς ἡ Μηδεία λέγεται διαφθεῖται τὸν ἀδελ
φὸν Αψυρτον διωκόντα αὐτητα Στραβ. βίβλο η
اد
In which paffage it is obfervable, that the voyage
of Apfirtus, in confequence
prof Medea's fight, does not feem to have been counted among the fables.
3648]
:
1519
is certainly a very ancient compofition, and, for that reaſon, the
language of it was modernifed about the times of Homer, fpeaks
of the iſlands Apartides, and fays plainly, that they took their name:
from the dead body of the prince who had landed there. * And,.
.L
ins
..
το Νυξ δὲ τον᾽ ἀτροχίτων μέσσην παράμειμβε πορείαν.
Εκ δ' ἐτελεῖτο δόλος συγερός, καὶ κῦρες ιδιαι
Μηδείης ἐπὶ ἔρωτος, ἐπικλυτο. Αψύρτοιο.
Ον τα κατακτείψαντες, ἐπὶ προχοάς μεθέηκαν τ
$ Ορνυμένα ποταμοίο το φέρει το πνεύματι κραιπνο
· Θεινόμενος δὲ δίκαις εις κῦμ' αλὸς ατρυγέτοιο
-Κέλσεν ὑπέρ νήσων, ᾿Αψυρτίδας ας καλέεσιν.
´ann' äga ärı náðw, A¡ ¡zálıq, ndì dépicas. Orph. in Argonaut, v. 1026, & Jeggs
983
And now the night, adorned with its ftarry mantle, had finiſhed half its
courfe, when the horrid treaſon was executed, and the noble Apfirtus fell ä ſa-
Jaſon
LOKLI
11 4 INANIO
}},{
Bob and
.0
+
crifice to the fatal love that fafon had kindled in the breaft of Medea. They
both together threw the dead body into the river. And by the winds and
waves, it was carried through the defert fea to far diftant iflands, which from
thence were called Apfirtides. But the execrable deed was not concealed from
the eternal juſtice, nor from the father of the Gods, who fees every thing."
it: The body of Apfirtus, according to Orpheus, was thrown into the Phafis, and
carried by the current of that river, into the black fea, from whence, paffing
through the Thracian Boſphorus, it entered the Propontis, paffed between Seftos
and Abydus, tráverfed the Archipelago and Ionian fea, was driven by the winds
into the Adriatick, and at laft landed on the Liburnian iflands: a ftrange voyage
indeed, which the living are many days in making, and the dead never make in
our times. In the mean time, while the body of Apfirtus was on its voyage to-
wards our coafts, the Argonauts were failing towards the north coaſt, with the
intention of ſteering afterwards due north. They entered the Paulus Meotis, and
run into the Tanais, with all the boldneſs of failors who knew their courſe, and
were certain of being able to paſs, from river to river, or from rivers into lakes,
till they arrived in the northern ocean, though they were not exactly and parti-
cularly acquainted with the way. This navigation was believed impoffible and
fabulous, and the rather, becaufe Orpheus fometimes falls manifeftly into fable,
by
ich he chofe to cover allegorically, according to the cuſtom of his age,
who knows preciſely what truth. He mixed a great deal of the marvellous in his
voyage,
7
{
glot cloryiated w
W* ENAKSOY OT
[365]
in later ages, the fame opinion paffed conftantly from writer to
writer, infomuch that the abbreviator of Stephanus Byzantinus
gives the fame etymology as agreed upon by all the Greeks, and
many of the Latins who took it from them.* Lucant and the
elder
1
voyage, as Homer did in the peregrinations of Ulyffes. But as the navigation of
the Mediterranean was well known three thousand years ago, and the con-
trary, cannot be deduced from Homer's fables; fo it is reaſonable to believe,
notwithſtanding the mixture of allegory by Orpheus, that, in 'ancient times, the
inland navigation up the Tanais, and down the Devina or Neva, was alfo ge-
nerally known. In our days, perhaps the internal country, that lies between
the Paulus Meotis and the ocean, is lefs known than it was in the days of Or-
pheus, or even before his days. At any rate, the best maps fhew us that there
actually is an artificial communication between the Black Sea and the Cafpian;
and every body knows, that the wood, for building the Imperial fleet, is tranf-
ported by water, from the Cafpian fea to Cronftad. Strabo, in his eleventh
book, fays a great deal of a voyage, by water, from the black fea to the Cafpian,
the Argonauts did not, perhaps, make this voyage in reality; but Orpheus writes
with too much precifion, and by attributing ſuch a voyage to them, plainly
fhews that he had a knowledge of thofe parts, which after him was loft. It does
not feem credible, that the whole was a fiction, as in many things he hit fo well
on the truth.
·
* Αψυρτίδες νήσοι, πρὸς τῷ ᾿Αδείᾳ, απὸ Αψύρτε παιδός Αιήτε εν μια δολοφονθέντος ὑπό τῆς
ἀδελφῆς Μηδείας. ὅι νησιῶται Αψυρτεις, καὶ Αψυρτιοι. Steph." Byzant. Epit.'
J
7
The iftands Apfirtides in the Adriatick, fo called from Apfirtus, fon of Eeta,
"who was traitorously. flain by his own fifter Medea, in 'one of thoſe iſlands.
"Hence the iſlanders are called Apſirteſi, and Apfirtii."" And, in another place,
fpeaking of the coaft of Liburnia: Φλάνων πολις ενα λιμην, περί την Αψυρτον νησον, Flanona,
"a city and port near the iſland Apfirtus.'
+ Colchis, et Adriacas fpumans Apfirtis in undas:" Luc. Pharfal. lib. V.
On which paffage the note of Farnabius is obfervable for its geographical er-
ror: he fays, Infula maris Adriatici cum fluvio cognomine in mare prolapfo fub Illy-
rico. "An iſland of the Adriatick fea, which has a river of the fame name, that
"falls into the ſea near the Illyric." But it is more ſhameful to ſee, in the dic-
tionary of feven languages, printed, perhaps, thirty times by the feminary of Pa-
dua, on the fame paffage of Lucan, “ibi de fluvio quodam fermo eft, qui in Colchis
"nafcitur,
鲁
​7
[366]
elder Pliny mentioned this ifland; and though the poet only
took notice of it by the bye, juft naming it, the naturalift and
geographer is fomewhat more particular. It ſhould ſeem, that,
at leaſt, the profeffed geographers, whofe duty it is to be well
informed of the true names of places, ought to have been una-
nimous in fixing the name of this ifland. Yet it was not fo.
Ptolemy, inſtead of Apfirtis, called it Apforos, and names diſtinct-
ly the two cities Cherfo and Ofero, Keja, Avoppos. †
Κρέψα, και Αψορρος.
Since
« nafcitur, et in Adriaticum fe exonerat. Lucan ſpeaks of a river that riſes in Min-
grelia, and falls into the Adriatick." It appears impoffible that fuch blunders
pafs unnoticed for more than half a century, under the eyes of perfons dedicated
by profeffion to learning, and the inftruction of youth.
.66
“
* Pliny fpeaks twice of this ifland, with fome variation. Infulæ ejus finus cum
oppidis, præter fupra fignificatas, Apfyrtium, Arba, Crexa, Giffa, &c. The iflands
of that gulf, which have towns, befides thofe already mentioned, are Ofero,
"Arbe, Cherfo, Pago, &c. l. iii. c. 21. And in c. 26. of the fame book: juxta
Iftrorum agrum Ciſſa, Pullaria, & Apfirtides Grajis dicta, a fratre Medeæ ibi
“ interfecto Apfyrta, i. e. Near the lands of the Iftrians lie Figheruola, the iſland
"of Brioni, and Gherfo, and Ofero, called Apfirtides by the Greeks, becauſe Ap-
.. firtus, the brother of Medea, was killed there."
1
દુઃ
દ
It ſeems that Ptolomy alfo thought, that Cherfo and Ofero ought to be rec-
koned one iſland only, making no account of the very narrow Euripus that di-
기
​>
vides it. Νήσοι δὲ παρακείνεται τῇ μὲν Λιβερία Αψορος ἐν ᾗ πόλεις δύο, Κρέψα, καὶ Αψορρος.
な
​καὶ Κυρίκτα, ἐν ᾗ πόλεις δύο, Φελφίνιον, Κυρίκτον.
Εν
Πτολ. βιβλ. β. « The iflands adjacent
"to Liburnia are Apforus, in which are two cities, Grepfa, and Apforrus, and
“Curitta (Veglia) where there are alfo two, Fulfinium, and Curitta." Father
Dolci, the Ragufcan, in his learned treatiſe, De Illyricæ linguæ amplitudine,
et vetuftate, will have it, that the iſland of Veglia, in ancient times, was called
Goritta, and not Gurita; and draws its denomination from the Slavic word Co-
ritta, which fignifies a trough. I would rather derive it from the greek spo, and
am perfuaded thofe iflanders would more readily embrace my etymology. Since
I happen to be ſpeaking of Veglia, I think I ought to take notice of a geogra-
phical error of M. de la Martiniere. He affigns thirty miles of circuit to that
ifland, and thus makes it much ſmaller than it is: for it is actually thirty miles
Jong, and its greatest breadth is about fourteen. V. Martiniere Diction. Geograph.
Grit. &c.
[ 6367 ]
1
Since the ancient geographers did not preciſely agree about the
name of our iſland, it is no wonder that the poets and hiftori-
ans differ on the fame article. Apollonius Rhodius, in his IVth
book of Argonautics, gives the denomination of Brigeidi, and
iflands of Diana, to Cherfo and the adjacent iſlands. But the
fame author, foon after, relating the death of Apfirtus, fays,
his bones, were buried near the city, which had taken its name
from him, and given it to the Apfirtefi.* Pomponius Mela,† the
moſt exact among the ancient Latin geographers, gave it two
names; dividing the two parts. Pliny was not conftant in this
point, fometimes calling the island of Cherfo, and Ojero, toge-
ther
* Apfirtus, according to Apollonius, was killed on that part of the iſland now
called Ofero.
νη χεδὸν, ὃν ποτ᾽ ἔδειμαν
Αρτέμιδι βρυγοί περιναίεται αντιπέρηθε.
}
"Near the temple which the Brigii inhabitants had erected to Diana on the
* oppofite fide." But he was buried near the city.
s
Ενθ᾽ ἔτι νῦν πες
Κέιαται ἰδέα κέινα μετ' ἀνδράσιν Αψυρτεῦσιν. Apoll. Rhod, Argon. I. IV.
ܐ܂
+ In Hadria Abforus, Celaduffe, Abfyrtis, Ifa. Pomp. Mela, 1. 11. c. 7. In
es the Adriatick, Ofero, Celaduffe, Cherfo, Lila." Pomponius Mela, by dividing
the two parts of the iſland, and reckoning them as two feparate iflands, fhews
us the error into which Magini fell, in believing that the channel, which di-
vides the iſland of Ofero from Cherfo, was made in times not far from ours: he
fays; "In paſt ages theſe iſlands were only one; but the Venetians having let
«in the fea.... divided them in two." It is probable enough, that, in very
old times, there was an ifthmus between Ofero and Cherfo: but the channel,
though perhaps made by art, is not a work of the low ages. Magini (Deſcriz.
del mondo Ven. 1598) probably found, that the Venetians perfected, and fortified
that paſs, as was really the cafe, but he altered the fact by relating it wrong.
›
z
[ 368 J
ther, Apfirtius, in the fingular number, and fometimes Apfirti-
des in the plural, including perhaps, the adjacent little iſlands.
In the low ages, it was called by the hiftorian, Socrates, Ni-
cephorus, Calliftus, and Sozomenus† the iſland Fianona, and by Pau-
las Diaconus, ‡ Infula Flanonenfis, taking the name from the neigh-
bouring city Fianona, or Flanona in Liburnia. The Slavi, by
whom it was taken by force of arms, or perhaps retaken in the
middle times, gave it the name of Oforo. Palladio Fofio, or Ne-
gro, a Paduan writer of the xvth century, has made honourable
mention of it, in his little work de fitu ora Illyrici, 1. 2. § and
Giovanni
* From this inconftancy of Pliny, and fome other notions of his, which we
fhall take notice of in going on, it may be ſuppoſed, that that good naturaliſt
was not well acquainted with the coafts of Liburnia, Illyrium, and the iſlands
near them; and that he had not vifited them in perſon, as every one ought to do
before he undertakes to deſcribe a country. The venerable author, however,
fhould not be too much blamed for this, as, in his work, he was to treat of the
whole known world, of confequence he was obliged, for the moſt part, to truſt
to the relations of others.
† Σωκράτ. Ίσορ, Ἐκκλ. Βιβλ. 6. cap. 26. Νικέφ. Καλλις. 1. ix. c. 32. Σωζόμ. 1. iv. c. 16
‡ Ob quam rem Conſtantius indignatus evocavit Gallum; qui quum contemnere non
poffet, veniebat ad principem; quumque contra infulam Flanonenfem veniffet, eum illic
Conftantius juffit interimi. "At which Conftans being offended, recalled Gallus
་ (from Paleſtine) And he, not having a fufficient force to diffobey the com-
"mand of his prince, fet out on his return. But on his arrival at the iſland of
"Flanona, he was put to death by order of Conftans." Paul. Diae. lib. 12.
Hift. Mifcell.
§ E regione Iftriæ, finu Palatico, quem nautæ carnarium vocitant, interveniente,
duæ funt (infula) tenui Euripo disjuncta: ad meridiem Abfyrtium, quæ ambitu colli-
gens ftadia circiter quingenta vicatim tantummodo habitatur; et ad feptentrionem Grexa
duplo pene major, in qua duo funt oppida, Abforum femidirutum, & alterum eodem quo
infula nomine, quod egregie habitatum nunc illuftratur Antonii Marcelli ordinis minorum
multijuga doctrina, & vitæ integritate. Utraque autem infula pecorofa eft, & lignorum
abundantiffima:
I 369 ]
Giovanni Lucio, in his claffical book, de regno Hungariæ et Dal-
matiæ, in which the beſt records are found concerning the Illy-
rick affairs, which, before his time, were involved in the dark-
neſs of barbarous antiquity, and which he was the first to il
luftrate. *
Befides the abovementioned Greek and Latin writers of diffe-
rent ages, many authors, Greek, Latin, Italian, and of other
nations, have taken notice of this ifland in their works; but it
would be tedious to tranfcribe what each of them has faid on the
ſubject in particular; nor do I think all the accounts they have
given of it, taken together, are fufficiently explicit or fatisfac-
tory. Setting afide, however, the authors of the two laft ages, †
Bbb
of
abunduntiſſima, &c. That, is "Near Iftria, in the Polatick bay, which the fea-
"men call Quarnaro, there are two iflands feparated by a narrow channel of fea;
+66
Abfyrtium (Ofero) which lies to the fouthward, and is about five hundred ſtadii
❝.in circumference, whoſe inhabitants live in villages and hamlets. On the
"north fide lies Crexa (Cherfo) almoſt twice as large, and has two cities, Abforum
"Ofero) which is almoft ruined, and the other, which bears the name of the
"iſland. This city is well peopled, and rendered illuftrious in our days (about
"1470) by the univerſal learning and exemplary life of Antonio Marcello, a Fran-
"cifcan friar. Both theſe iſlands abound in ſheep and wood."
*Giovanni Lucio, befides his celebrated work de Regno Hungariæ, &c. wrote
many other hiſtorical memoirs concerning Illyrium. They ſay that theſe writings
are preferved at Rome, where he died, among the manuſcripts in the Vatican:
and it would be well worth while if ſome perſon took the trouble to examine the
papers of a man who was equally learned and diligent; there might certainly be
found among them fome valuable documents and anecdotes, which, through
time and barbariſm, are otherwiſe loft. The Illyrick nation ought to be parti-
cularly intereſted in this enquiry.
+ Mauro Orbini, Regno Degli Slavi. Freſchot, morie ftoriche della Dalmatia.
Pietro Coppo, del fito dell' Iftria, a rare work, printed in 1540. Carlo Steffano,
in his Dizionario Geografico, Baudrond, &c. Many Venetian hiftorians, Father
Farlati's
[ 370 ]
may
of fome of which I fhall infert the names in a note, that they
be confulted by thoſe who chuſe it, I do not think I ought
to leave unnoticed the errors of the writers of the Encyclopedie,
Cluverius, and de la Martiniere, who may lead many others into
miſtakes, as they actually led me at firft. Therefore I ſhall take
the liberty, in the proper places, to fet their miſtakes in view..
At prefent I fhall only take notice of the fhameful blunder of the
author of the geographical articles in the Encyclopedie,* who puts
the iſland of Ofero in Italy, and fhews thereby, that, either he
did not know the fituation of the firſt, or the ancient and modern
confines of the laft. Of this blunder, which is not the only one
I ſhall have occafion to ſpeak again, † it is very difagreeable in--
deed,
1
Farlati, Illirico facro, Bordon, all the authors on the islands, and eſpecially P.
Coronelli, P. d' Avity, in his deſcriptions, which are accurate, and lastly, Salmon.
in his book of voyages.
* Diction. de l' Encyclopedie, art. Ofero or Oforo.
"
A
+ Tó tranſport an iſland from one kingdom to another, or from one province
to another, is certainly a mistake which does no honour to a geographer, but to
create a city where one never exifted, is ftill worſe. The Chevalier de Iaucourt
frequently inferts, in his articles, fuch particulars concerning a place as really
are not, and takes no notice of thofe for which it is remarkable. We will take,.
for example the article of Albano, a village well known among us. In the En-
cyclopedie it is called "a fmall city of Italy, in the Paduan territory." Albano,
which, in our days, is a very fmall village with few inhabitants, was never either
city, or town, or caftle. No higher title than that of village or hamlet, could
ever be given it; but it was, and is ftill fo famous for other reafons, that the
geographer may be justly blamed who only faid two or three words about it, and
even thoſe not true. He ought rather to have taken notice of the medicinal.
qualities of its hot baths, and the curious phenomena, that may be obſerved about
it, both in the vegetable and animal kingdoms. Nothing of this, however, is ·
mentioned in the Encyclopedie, and to multiply inaccuracies, the ſame geographer,
a few articles after, talks of an "Apon, a fountain of Padua, where there ne-
ver was a fountain of that name; which feems coined by caprice, being neither
Greek, Italian, Latin nor French...
`
(371)
deed, that, in a work of ſuch diſtinguiſhed merit, there fhould
be found fo capital miftakes of all kinds, which certainly ought
to be corrected. Errors of fact, efpecially, ought not to be per-
petuated; and if, through the inattention or infufficiency of any
member of that illuftrious fociety, too great a number are obvi-
ous in the first edition, the ſubſequent editions ſhould at leaſt be
revifed and corrected.
Concerning the Origins of the various names above mentioned.
The name of Apfirtides is certainly the moft ancient ap-
pellation of theſe iſlands recorded in any writings now extant.
The Greek authors, for the moſt part, derive it, as has been
already obferved, from the murder of Apfirtus; as they fay fo
much about the expedition from Colchos, in purſuit of the argo-
naut adventurers, and of the royal maiden Medea, that it would
be a kind of preſumption to affert the whole to be a fable from
beginning to end. I believe I may ſay in this cafe with our
Dante:
"O voi che avete gl' intelletti fani,
"Mirate la dottrina che s'afconde
· Sotto ill velame de' RACCONTI ftrani.”
I am very far from pretending to fee the ftory of the voyages
and death of Apfirtus, in fo clear a light, as to take on me to
affirm it demonftratively true: yet I cannot deny, that I am ra-
ther diſpoſed to believe it not altogether falfe. Indeed I ſhould
look upon myſelf as without any criterion, if I judged otherwiſe.
Let this be, however, as it will; if we choſe to derive the names
of Apfirtides, Apforus, Crepfa, and Aſſorrus from a fource more
fimple,
Bbb 2
I
372 ]
τῶν
imple, and which requires fewer difcuffions, their etymology
is found in the Greek roots very well adapted, and reaſonable.
From the Syrtes or quickfands, which are frequent in this tract
of ſea, απÒ Tŵv σupréwv, and from the adverb ay, behind, it ſhould
feem that the collective Apfirtides might have been derived, fig-
nifying ifland beyond or behind the quickfunds. So likewife; from
the fame adverb ay, and opos a hill, the name of Apforus, Avopos
may probably have been given to that part of the iſland lying
towards the north, which would feem hid behind the bill, to
thoſe who came by fea from Greece. Apforrus, Atoppos, the an-
cient name of the city, fituated on the narrow channel, at the
extremity of that part of the iſland, that has the ſeparate name of
Cherfo, at the foot of the mountain, was probably firſt given to
the Euripus, or channel itſelf, where there is a very violent eddy
of flux and reflux, and afterward's communicated to the conti-
guous city. The word Aloggos fignifies
The word Aloggos fignifies preciſely retrograde,
and the narrow channel, that divides Cherfo from Ofero, merits,
that title perfectly well. I am forry that I cannot ſo naturally
fo
bring the derivation of the two Greek names of Cherſo, Kɔeva and.
Kpia, from the future of the verb Kpéw, I. command, I reign;:
becauſe that etymology feems rather adapted to the capital of a
more confiderable and powerful ifland, than any of thofe in the
Adriatick can well be ſuppoſed to have been in ancient times.
At any rate, I would rather chufe thus to ftrain the derivation,.
than to allow Father Dolci to change the name of Crepfa, into
that of Crapfa, which, in Sclavonian, fignifies rapine. The Fa
ther juſt mentioned, muſt have been in no good humour with
the inhabitants of the principal iſlands of the Quarnaro, when he
derived the name of Veglia, called, both in Greek and Latin,
Curicta, from the Slavic word Coritta, a hog's trough; and when:
SU
840
he
[ 373 ]
he fought for the etymology of Crepfa, in the word Crapfa, ra-
pine, or robbery. *
According to the ftory of Apollonius Rhodius, Cherfo and Ofero
were named Brigeidi, and iſlands of Diana, before they were cal-
led Apfirtides; and that thoſe names were taken from a famous
temple of Diana, and from the inhabitants, who were Brigi,
deſcended from the neighbouring hills. By an unaccountable
miſtake of the Greek hiftorians of the low times, fome of them
gave
thoſe iſlands the name of Flanona, an ancient city of Libur-
nia, fituated, not far from the northerly point of Cherfa, on the
continent. Perhaps, on the faith of thoſe authors, or on ac-
count of fome other circumſtance, of which the memory is loft,
they were called Infula Flanonenfis by Paulus Diaconus. This
name, which gives fome ground to believe that the iſland was once
dependant on the city of Flanona, perhaps was given it at the
time when it deferved the name of Cherfo, Xépoos, which fig-
nifies + uninhabited, uncultivated, defert. I am apt rather to be-
lieve this, than to fuppofe the word Cherfo corruptly derived from
Crepfa or Crexa.
↑
That
* Father Dolci, in his little work quoted before, would have a letter changed
in the ancient name of Crapfa, and appeals to the authority of Ablavius, a writèr
whom I do not know, and whom the father qualifies as ancient and worthy of
credit. There was an Ablavius, one of Conftantine's courtiers, who drew the
true character of that prince in a few verſes: and an Ablavius, but not a geogra-
pher, lived under Theodofius the younger. I fufpect that this geographer Ablavius
may be Blau's Atlas, called Blavius by fome writers. This, however, would
not be very ancient, and worthy of credit, only to a certain degree. Father Dolci
has perhaps found that work quoted thus: A. Blavii, i. e. the atlas of Blau.
†‹ xɛpoɛów, Iḍlie uncultivated. The greateſt part of the ground on this iſland)
efove to this day,
"
[ 374 ]
A
*That part of the island, which lies on the fouth fide of the
ftrait, had the name of Obfara, Ofero, Offur, or foro given it
not long before or after the year 1000; but it is probable, that,
fince the time of the laſt invaſions of the Slavi, both parts of the
ifland bore the name of Ofero in common, either corrupted or
entire. Ofero, and fome other words of a ſimilar ſound, fignifies
a lake in the Scythian languages. On the point ofKamtſchatka
there is a finall place fituated near a lake, and is called Ofero,
taking its name from thence. And it is not improbable that the
lake has alſo given name to our iſland.*
Of the ancient Inhabitants of the Iſland, and a Sketch of its Civil Hiftory.
All the hiftories of countries that have been illuftrious in very
remote ages, are ſo blended with fable, that it is extremely dif-
ficult to ſeparate the true parts from the fabulous. The ftories
that had taken their rife from real and not extraordinary facts,
acquired ſomething of the marvellous, in paffing from mouth to
mouth, and being eafily reduced from a fimple to a figured
ftyle, it became at laſt almoſt impoffible to bring them back to
their original purity. At any rate, whenever any place, or
town, is conftantly mentioned, in ancient authors, as the thea-
tre of ſome fabulous, or mixed event, from that period its hif-
tory muſt be begun,; endeavouring, by good criticiſm, to fift
out the exaggerated traditions, and admitting, as not void of
truth, ſuch as appear reaſonable, and not contray to obfervati-
ons, or facts.
Orpheus, Callimachus, Apollonius, Lycophron,
Strabo,
* This Ofero is marked in the beſt maps; and not only it, but almoſt all
the other places, throughout the vaſt empire of Ruffia, have Slavic names, cor-
refponding, fometimes more, fometimes lefs, with the Illyric, Albaneſe, „Ser-
wian, Polish dialects, &c.
[ 375 ]
Strabo, Mela, Fliny, Ptolomy, and feveral other ancient Greek
and Latin writers, all agree in giving population and cities to
the iſland Apfirtis, before the foundation of Pola, a very ancient
and
† Pola was an illuftrious city, and reputed very ancient, even in the times of
Strabo. All the geographers, and the ancient itineraries ſpeak of it as a confid-
erable place; and many poets and hiftorians make honourable mention of it.
Licophron, and Callimachus fpeak of a city of Pola, which had near it a deep river
called Dizero, perhaps, from the lake through which it paffed, whereof the part
now remaining is ftill called Fefero; though many have thought, that the Pola
in Iftria was not the city meant by thofe authors. However, as we find a con-
ſtant tradition, among the most ancient writers, of a large river that ran into
the ſea not far from Pola, and the veſtiges of it are manifeft in the inland parts
of Iftria, and alſo in the adjacent fea, I am of opinion, that the following verfes
are to be underſtood of the Iftrian Pola and no other.
Οἱ μὲν ἐπ᾽ Ἰλλυρικοῖο πόρε χάσαντες έρετμά
Επ
Λᾶα παρά ξανθῆς ᾿Αρμονίης ὄφιας
Ἄσυρον ἐκτίσαντο. Τὸ μὲν φυγάδων τὶς ἐνίσσοι
Γραικός, ατάρ κεινων γλῶσσ᾽ ὀνόμηνε Πόλας.
Καλλιμάχε
"They, refting their oars in a ftoney part of the Illyric fea, not far from the
"ferpent of the yellow Armonia, built Aftrium there; a name which ſome of
"the Grecian exiles gave it, and in the language of the country it was called.
"Pola."
The names of Pola, and the Reipublica Polenfis are found in feveral ancient in-
fcriptions. It became afterwards a Roman colony; and we are told, by fome
authors, that, in the time of the triumviral wars, it incurred the diſpleaſure of
Auguftus, and was pardoned by the interceffion of his daughter; whence the
people of Pola, through a fentiment of mean adulation, changed the name of
their city, fo illuftrous and venerable for its antiquity, from Pola to Pietas Ju-
lia. Many monuments and veftiges of its ancient grandeur ftill remain, though ·
ruinous for the moſt part, and ſpoiled no lefs by time, than by the barbariſm of
the inhabitants. The amphitheatre is celebrated, and ftill remains almoſt en-
tire: the funeral arch of Sorgius; and the temple of Rome and Auguftus; and
the noble ruins of the contiguous temple of Diana, now transformed into ftables ·
and kitchens of the publick places; and the remains of the bath, which now
fervess
<
[ 376 ]
and famous city in Iftria; which, if built by the Colchefians,
as is the conftant opinion of all the hiſtorians, muſt be thirty
centuries
ferves as a perennial fountain, and fupplies the inhabitants of the city and neigh-
bourhood with water in the greateſt drought. Greek and Roman coins of the
good times, and Aquileian and Venetian of the middle times, are often found
there, in gold, filver, and copper, as well as inftruments, vafes, and other an-
cient works. Many infcriptions have been carried away, and many ftill remain
fcattered in the streets and rubbish, or thruft without diftinction into the walls,
a good part of which was built of ancient ftone, and may be called a mixture of
frizes, cornices, ftatues, columns, bafs-reliefs, and other pieces of wrought
marble. The barbarous ignorance of the clergy of that place, buried, in the be-
ginning of this century, a great number of ancient memorials in the foundation
of the ſteeple of their cathedral; and the ftupid indifference of the inhabitants per
mitted it. And thus they continue to permit any individual to bury whatever va-
luable piece of antiquity he meets with, in order to carry on his wretched build-
ing ſo much the quicker and eaſier.
There was alſo a theatre in former times, of which Serlius has preſerved the
ruins in his books of architecture; and I have feen them likewife in a bad im-
preffion of an old plan of Pola, done in the laft century. It lay at the foot of the
hill, which is ftill called Zadro, or Zaro corruptly; the fteps were placed upon
the curvature of the hill itſelf, to fave fubftructions. A French engineer, cal-
led Anthony Deville, deſtroyed theſe remains, which were fingular in the world;
and made uſe of the materials to build a fort on the top of a hill in the very mid-
dle of the city, in the year 1636. The fame man had alfo undertaken to de-
moliſh the amphitheatre; and would foon have ruined it altogether, if the cle-
mency of the fovereign, at the inftance of the inhabitants, who at that time did
not exceed four hundred, had not made him defift. But the damage begun by
that enemy to antiquity was never repaired; and that magnificent monument of
the grandeur of Pola threatens a diffolution on one fide, if not prevented in
time. The work does not require much expence; the repairing of one arch,
and a few other pieces would be fufficient; but if it is left abandoned much long-
er, the confequences muſt certainly be fatal.
The barbarous treatment of antiquitity continued ftill at Pola after the depar-
ture of Deville, and after the death of thoſe who buried the inſcriptions in the
beginning of the century. Not feven years fince, in diging a well in a private
houfe,
1
[ 377 ]
centuries old; as the Colchefians, in purfuit of the Argonauts,
landed in the Adriatick, according to the beft chronological
Ccc
com-
houſe, a fubterraneous apartment was diſcovered divided into galleries by brick
pilafters, and all covered with flabs of Greek marble two palms broad, and about
fix long. The Vifigoth owner of the houſe barbaroufly filled it all up with the
rubbiſh of his well, and made fuch hafte to cloſe it altogether by a wall, that I
did not get in time to fee that fubterraneous curiofity, though I was at no great
diftance. Another Vandal threw under ground a very well cut ftatue near the
apothecary's fhop at the corner of the market place; and ſeven years ago, with-
out one of the gates, a rill of water run under a ftatua togota without the head;
and it is now quite covered with earth. A few years fince, many infcriptions were
buried in the foundations of houſes, which, however, were preſerved in write
ing, together with feveral ancient filver coins by Signor Jacopo Lombardi a gentle-
man of Pola.
The territory of Pola is very fertile, nor do we find that ancient writers find
fault with it for the unhealthfulneſs of its air. The devaftations, to which it
was ſubject in the low ages, deſtroying its inhabitants, and thoſe of the country
round it, were the cauſe alſo that the waters in the low adjacent grounds were
neglected. And the bishops, who, in thoſe times of anarchy and barbariſm,
became proprietors of the neareft, and moſt pernicious lakes to the city, never
having taken any pains to give them an outlet, the air was rendered exceedingly
unwholeſome, eſpecially in the hot feaſon, a calamity which they, as paſtors of
the people, ought to have endeavoured to prevent of their own accord, at leaſt
in this humane age, without waiting for orders from the fovereign. Instead of
-making a canal of communication between the lakes near the city and the fea,
they, fome years ago, very imprudently dug an outlet for the fountain, with the
view of hindering the propagation of aquatick plants, which grew in great plen--
ty, becauſe the bottom had never been cleaned to the depth of the ancient pave-
ment. This canal communicates with the contiguous fea, and, at high tides,
ferves to conduct the falt water which ſpoils the fountain, and hurts the health
of the people, who are obliged to uſe it.
There were, in former times, many ancient fepulchral monuments about
Pola, and fome ftill remain on the fouth fide of it. Dante mentions them:
Si come ad Arli, ove il Rodano ftagna,
Si come a Pola, preffo del Quarnaro
Che Italia chiude, ei fuoi termini bagna,
Fanno i fepolcri tutto il loco varo.
Inf. ix. v. 113.
*
*
( 378 )
computations, about 1230 years before the birth of Chrift.
Orpheus only names the islands Apfirtides, and conducts his Ar-
gonauts, as we have already feen, through the Palus Meotis, and
up the rivers into the northern ocean. But Apollonius, accord-
ing to whofe account the fhip Argos made a lefs wonderful, and
a ſhorter voyage, expreffly fays, there were two iſlands, on one of
which there was a temple dedicated to Diana, and on the point
of the other, near the fea, the Colchefians built a fort. I
think it neceffary to give a brief narration of this expedition,
which is very circumftantially deſcribed by Apollonius, as, from
thence, the hiftory of Cherfo and Ofero takes its beginning.
The Argonauts, knights errants of their age, or, in other
terms, ufurpers of what belongs to others, either by force or
fraud, formed the heroick project of getting, by conqueft, the
precious veft, or whatever manufacture it was, which they called
the golden fleece, the fame of which had reached Theffaly, from
Cholchos, where it was jealoufly kept. Jafon being made cap-
tain of this adventure, embarked on board a fhip, which could.
not be very large, accompanied by the most couragious
young men of Greece, and, without meeting with any diſaſter,
caft anchor in Phafis. Medea, the king's daughter, faw and loved
him, and that circumftance facilitated the conqueft. The royal.
maid fled with him in the fhip Argos. Eeta, the king of Col-
chos, her father, difpatched warriours in purfuit of them every
where, threatening his fubjects, and making imprecations againſt
them if they returned without his daughter. The Colcheftans
had before that many fhips, or barks, which proves, that Jafon's
ſhip, though it might be the firſt that dared to paſs from Thef-
faly to the black fea, yet was by no means the firſt that failed.
the fea. Apfirtus, the brother of Medea,, and fon of Eeta, was.
one of the captains of thoſe little fleets..
The
[ 379 ]
"The Argonauts fetting fail with the golden fleece and with
Medea from the river Phafis, arrived in Paphlagonia the third
day after. Not thinking themfelves fecure in there waters, they
held a ferious confultation about what courfe they were to take,
in order to eſcape the danger of being taken by their purfuers:
Hitherto there is nothing in the ſtory that can be called extrava-
gant, or incredible. One of them, named Argo, who had fuc-
ceeded Tifes as pilot, faid he had often heard of a very ancient
voyage made up the Danube, and a branch of that river which
led into the Adriatick fea. This information came from The-
bes in Egypt, and the prieſts of that country had communica-
ted it to a Greek. In the way thither there was a city called
Ea, where the intinerary tables of thoſe firſt navigators were
preferved.* The Argonouts therefore determined to return into
Ccc 2
Theffaly
* Νεισόμεθ' Ορχομενόν. .. .
Ἐπὶ γὰρ πλόος ἄλλος, ὃν ἀθανάτων ἱερες
Πέφραδον, ὅι Θήβης Τριτωνίδος ἐγκεγάασιν
Ενθεν δή τινα φασὶ πέριξ διὰ πᾶσαν ὁδεῦσαι
Εὐρώπην, ᾿Ασίην τε, βίῃ καὶ κάρτει λαῶν
Σφωιτέρων θάρσει σε πεποιθότα. μυρία δ' ἄςη
Η
η
Νάσσατ' ἐποχόμενος, τὰ μὲν ἤ ποθι ναιετάασιν,
'Ηέ, καὶ ἔ. πελὶς γὰρ ἄδην ἐπενήνοθεν υἱιών.
Αἶα γε μὲν ἔτι νῦν μένει ἔμπεδον, υἱωνοί τε
Τῶν δ᾽ ἀνδρῶν οἷς ὅγε καθίσσατο ναιέμεν Α. από
*Οι δή τοι γράπτες πατέρων ἔθεν ειρύονται
Κυρβίας, οἷς ἔνι πᾶσαι ὁδοί, καὶ πείρατ᾽ ἔασιν
Υγρής τε, τραφερῆς τε πέριξ ἐπινειπομένοισιν.
Ἔτι δὲ τις ποταμὸς, ὕπατον κέρας Ωκεανοῖο,
Ευρύς τε, προβαθύς τε, καὶ ὁλκάδι νηι περῆσαι.
Ἴσρον μιν καλέοητες ἑκὼς διετεκμήραντο
Ος όποταν θριήκων, Σκυθέων τ᾽ ἐπιβήσεται έξοις
Ενθα διχῆ τὸ μὲν ἔνθα μετ᾿ Ιονίην ἅλα βαλλει
Τηδ᾽ ὕδωρ, τὸ δ᾽ ὄπισθε βαθὺν διὰ κόλπον νησι
Σχιζόμενος πότε τρινακρία εἰσανέχοντα
Ιαίη ὃς ἡμετέρη παρακέκλιται
Τ
Apollon. Argon. l. 4. 5. 157.
"We
I 380 1
·
Theffaly by the way of the Danube, failing up the river tilf
they came to its divifion, or to the confluence of fome other
river, that runs into it, and had a communication with the
Adriatick. In the meantime, the fhips of Colchos were in pur-
fuit of them. One of their ſquadrons, having entered the Pro-
pontes, and paffed the Cianean rocks, or the iflands Simplegadi,
which in thoſe times were reckoned very dangerous, traverfed
the Archipelago, fteering the courfe which it was natural to
think the Theffalians would do in returning home with their
prize; and landed in Epyrus. But the other fquadron, com-
manded by Apfirtus, purſued Jafon and Medea, and even got
before them, in the fame way that they had chofen; and hav-
ing entered the Danube at one of its mouths, which baths the
fouth fide of the iſland of Peuce, called alfo Kaλov, got into
the Adriatick before the Argonauts, who had chofen the nor-
"We will return to Orchomenus...
"had taught the failors another road
therly
For the priests of Tritonian Thebes
And it is faid there was one of them of
❝ old, who, by his own courage, and the valour of his people, had conquered
"many cities in Europe and Afia; fome of thofe are inhabited in our days, and
"others are deſcribed; as many years have elapfed fince the time of thofe me-
morable old adventures. But the city of Ea ſtill fubfifts in its ſplendour, and
"the deſcendants of thoſe ancient heroes which he had fettled there. They jea-
loufly preferve the table wrote by their anceſtors, in which the roads, by fea
❝and land, over all our globe, are noted. And there is a river alfo recorded,
" which runs into the innermoft corner of the ocean; it is large and deep, and ca-
"pable of bearing a loaded fhip from one to the other fea; it is called the Iſter,
"and comes, with its name, from diftant parts. But at the confines of Thrace
"and Scythia its ample channel is divided into two branches, one of which runs
"into the Tuſcan fea, entering into a deep and feparate gulf which reaches be-
"yond the fea of Sicily, and is not far from our land."
Here it is proper to obferve, that the ancient Greeks fometimes called the black
fea Pontus, and the ocean; and confounded the Ionian and Adriatick fea with
the Tufcan, as parts of it.
t
[ 381 ]
}
therly mouth, and had loft too much time in Palagonia. Hence
it appears, that the navigation, from the black fea into the
Adriatick, by the Danube, was not only known at Ea, and
Thebes in Egypt, but likewife at Colchos, where there were ma-
ny fhips and mariners. *
Fafon and his companions, having arrived ſometime after inthe
Adriatick, found the Colcheſians fettled already in the iſland of
Cherfo and Ofero, inhabited in thofe remote times by Brigi,
Scythian race, allied to the ancient Phrigians, of whole emi-
gration no written records could be expected to come down to
us. Apfirtus had alſo built a fort, where the city of Ofero now
ftands. Apollonius goes on to relate the operations of the Col-
chefians and Argonauts, after their arrival in the Quarnaro, in
the following words: +
"Then
Κόλχοι
Νῆας τ' ειρύσαντο, καὶ ἄρμενα νηυσὶ βώλοντο
Αὐτῷ δ' ήματι πόντον ανηιον. ἐν δέ κε φαίης
Τόσσον νηίτην σόλον ἔμμεναι, ἀλλ᾽ οἰωνῶν
Ιλαδὸν ἄσπετον ἔθνος ἐπιβρομέειν πελάγεσσιν.
id. v. 236.
« The Colcheſians hauled their veffels into the water, and fet fail the fame
"day. Who would have imagined to fee fo large a fleet? they feemed more
"like a flock of ſea fowl than fhips."
Η Δή ρα τότε Κρονίην Κόλχοι αλα δ' ἐκπρομολόντες
Πάντη μή σφε λάθοιεν ἐπετμήξαντο κελεύθες.
Οἱ δ' ἔπιθεν ποταμοῖο κατήλυθον ἐκ δ᾽ ἐπέρησαν
Δοιας Αρτέμιδος Βρυγηιδας αγχόθι νησες.
Τῶν δ' ἤτοι ετέρη μὲν ἐν ιερὸν ἔσκεν ἔδεθλον,
Ἐν δ' ετέρη πληθὸν πεφυλαγμένοι Αψύρτοιο
Βαῖνον· ἐπεὶ κείνας πολλὸν λίπον ένδοθι νήσεις
αι
Αὕτως ἀζεμένοι κερην Διος. αἱ δὲ δὴ ἄλλας
Στεινόμεναι Κόλχοισι πόρες ἔκρυντο θαλάσσης,
→
[ 382 ]
Then the Colchefians, entering the Cronian fea, fhut up
all the paffages, fo that the Theffalians could not efcape. But
thefe came down the river behind them, and arrived at the
two Brigeide, the iſlands of Diana. On one of thefe ftood a
temple facred to the goddefs, and the other contiguous to it
was guarded by a ſquadron of warriours of the valliant Apfir-
The Argonauts, as foon as they came on fhore, offered
"their vows to the daughter of Jove; and in the meantime the
"Colchi fecured all the paffes."
•
દ
ε tus.
The inhabitants of Cherfo and Ofero had, before that, declar-
ed that they would give all poffible affiſtance to Apfirtus, whoſe
cauſe was doubtleſs juſt. And it appears that they were nume-
rous and warlike; for Jaſon ſays of them "that there was a
thick cloud of enemies around him on account of Medea; and
that all the inhabitants of the two contiguous iflands had become
auxiliaries of Apfirtus." This is an inſtance of juſtice, and does
much honour to the ancient Cherfines, and, at the fame time,
in a manner, contradicts the accufations of piracy, that have
been laid to their charge.* It is natural for robbers to protect
one another, and not to make war among themſelves in favour of
the robbed.
This
δυσμενέων ἀνδρῶν νέφος αμφιδέδηεν
Εινέκα σεν. πάντες γὰρ οσοι χθόνα τήν δε νέμονται
Αψύρτῳ μεμάασιν ἀμμυνέμεν . . . v. 398.
After this juft alliance with the Cherfines against the Argonauts, it cannot
reaſonably be ſuppoſed that Cherfo was originally called Crapfa, derived from
rapine.
[ 383 ]
This alliance of the Cherfines with Apfirtus could not but
difcourage the Theffalians, and Medea became afraid of falling a
facrifice to the circumstances. The young prince appeared in-
clined to come to honourable terms. Medea made ufe of this
difpofition to bring about his ruin, and perfuaded Jafon to ac-
cede to the treaſon. They made friendly prefents to Apfirtus,
and, after many preliminaries, minutely related by Apollonius,
they invited him to an interview. Medea landed at the place ap-
pointed for the conference, which was near the temple of Dia-
na, on the iſland of Ofero; and the veffel, that carried her, re-
turned, leaving her alone in all appearance, but Jaſon had privately
landed before, and lay in ambush. Apfirtus, entering the ftrait
in his ſhip, or rather crofing it over,* for, at that time, perhaps,
it was lefs deep, and broader, than it is at prefent, landed at
on the iſland of Ofero in the night. Medea, who was well pre-
pared, gave him to underſtand a thouſand lies; and the fimple
youth began to be perfuaded, that he had concluded an honoura-
The de-
ble treaty, when Jafon fell upon him fword in hand.
ceitful woman turned about, and took no notice of what was
going on. Apfirtus fell on his knees at the gate of the temple,.
and, before he expired, recollecting all his force, filled both his
hands with the blood that gufhed from the large wound, and.
threw it at Medea, whofe white veil and cloaths were all ftained
This tragic deed, we may fuppofe, happened not far
with it.
from:
*
Καρπαλίμως ή νηι δι εξ ανὸς οιόμα περήσας
Νιχθ᾽ ὑπὸ λυγαίην ιερῆς ἐπεβήσετο νήσει.
† Τῶ ὅγ᾽ ἐνὶ προδαμω γνύς ηριπε. λοίσθια δ'
Tỡ öy
you
Θυμιαναπνείων χερσὶν μελαν ἀμφοτέρησιν
ver. 458%
ήρως
Αιμα κατ᾽ ὠτεινὴν ὑποσχετος τῆς δὲ καλύπτρην
[ 384 ]
from Nerefine, and perhaps the bones of the young prince, in-
terred by fafon, lie in fome obfcure place thereabout. The
iſland, as we have already feen, had a new name from the af-
ſaffination and burial of Apfirtus, and was no longer called Bri-
geide, or the island of Diana, but Apfirtis. And perhaps the
name of Punta Sonta, a ſmall promontory, near the place where
it is likely Apfirtus was affaflinated, is derived from the fame
tradition, and paffing from language to language. It is not im-
poffible, that this point took its name of guilty from Jafon's
crime, as the Voltone Scelleroto at Verona did many ages after,
and as a gate, a ftreet, a field, or road, ufed to do among the
Romans for analogous reaſons.
Having loft their leader, the men of Colchos durft not think of
returning to their own country, dreading the wrath of a cruel
king, now irritated by a triple offence. In the confufion cauſed
by this misfortune, which the Argonauts announced by a fud-
den attack, fhewing that they were not uſed to pay any regard
to a truce, or to make it with a fair intention, the Colchefians
knew not what refolution to take. The Theffalians took advan-
tage of this perplexity, and, croffing the Adriatick, landed on an
ifland
Αργυρέην και πέπλον ἀλευομένης ἐρύθηνεν.
Ὀξὺ δὲ πανδαμάτωρ λοξῷ ιδεν οιον ερεξαν
ομματι νηλειής ὀλοφωιον ἔργον ἐριννύς.
v. 472.
The youth fell at the door of the temple, and then perceived he had been
<< betrayed by his fifter whom he ſaw at ſome diſtance looking at him. He could
"not ſpeak; but tearing open his wound with his hands, he filled them with
<the blood that guſhed out, and throwing it towards her, ftained her robe and
veil. The king of the gods turned his eyes another way, not to behold the
<< atrocious deed."
}
[ 385 ]
illand near the mouths of the Po. From thence forward their
has no connection with the island of Cherfo and Ofero.
voyage
When the Colchefians were recovered from their aftonishment,
they refolved to revenge, at all events, the death of their murder-
ed young prince; and hence they made the requifite difpofitions
for purſuing the Argonauts. But Juno, who, according to the
cuſtom of the ancient goddeffes, and which is ftill kept up by
ſome of the modern, was a declared protectreſs of whoever was in
the wrong, made an unjuſt uſe of her power to agitate the air; and
ſent out every meteor that could retard or fruftrate the intention
of a ſea voyage. It were to be wished, that all the fabulous parts
of ancient ſtories.could be explained like this partiality of Juno,
which evidently means only a combination of ftormy weather
unfit for the navigation of the Colchefians. They being afraid
of the refentment of the goddeſs, laid afide their project altoge-
ther; and fettled, in part, among thoſe iſlanders, whofe recti-
tude and hofpitality they had already experienced; and part of
them removed to the neighbouring coaſt of Iftria; ſome of them
alfo fettled in Dalmatia, and others repaired to Epyrus,* to
join the fquadron of their countrymen, who had landed there,
and, fearing the fury of Eeta, had laid aſide all thoughts of re-
turning home.
D d d
-The
* Τάχα καὶ τὸ Ἰάσονος μέχρι τῆς Ἰταλίας πλανηθέντος, δείκνυται γάρ τινα σημεια, καὶ περὶ τα Κε
xj
ραύνια ὄρη, καὶ περὶ τὸν ᾿Αδρίαν, καὶ ἐν τῷ Ποσειδωνιάτῃ κόλπω, και ταις πρὸς τῆς Τυρρηνίας νήσοις τῆς τῶν
Αργοναυτῶν πλάνης σημεία. Στραβ. αι
Perhaps Jafon failed as far as the coafts of Italy, as there are ftill to be feen
"the veftiges and marks of the voyage of the Argonauts near the Ceraunian
"mountains on the fhore of the Adriatick, in the bay of Poffidonia." The Ce-
raunian mountains are thofe of the Cimara, fo called by corruption, from the
hill Chimara, an ancient volcano, from which fo many fables took their rife.
I 386 T
A7
7 1
1
The fort of Apfirtus was built, by the young prince, on the pot
where Ofero now ftands, on the brink of the ſtrait; hence the in-
habitants were called Apfirtus, and the contiguous ifland, where
the temple ſtood, was called Apfirtis. There, no doubt, the
Colchefians began to have poffeffions, without meeting with any
disturbance from the people of Cherfo, who, on the north fide
of their city, muſt alſo have had poffeffions near them. It is
probable, that, following the deſtiny of all the other iſlands,
that of Cherſo and Ofero has been ſometimes free, and fometimes
fubject before the Roman conquefts. I find no authentick re-
cords of its hiſtory collected by any author, which perhaps is
owing to the ignorance in which the iſlanders lived for many
ages.
}
$
{
1
10
151) A
Lucio (Lib. 1. cap. 1. p. 2.) believed, that, without the pof
feffion of the Liburnia iſlands, it would have been impoffible
for the people of Adria to have maintained the dominion of the
gulf to which they gave the name, and in another place, gives the
proofs of this propofition. He fixes the fovereignty of the Tuf-
cans of Adria over the islands of the Quarnaro about the 359th year
of Rome. It feems probable, however, that the Iftrians, the Adri-
ans, and the Liburnians were in poffeffion of that fovereignty by
turns ; and that at laft, after the taking of Medolino (Metullium,
or of Caftelnovo (Nefactus) it paffed to the Romans.* Near the
city of Ofero there are ſtill remaining fome veftiges of Roman
habitations, in the infcriptions, and coins that are frequently
dug up: and there are alſo veſtiges of the dominion of the Adel
drians
7
1
→ V, Appian. Alexand. de Belle Illy
1
1 387 I
་
Pan's in feveral parts of the coaft of Dalmatia, particularly on
the iſland of Leffa, where Etrufcan vafes are often found.
910 using
1
name
(6
}
+
६
In the times near the ruin of the empire, we find Chero men-
tioned by Paulus Diaconus, as I before took notice of, under the
of Infula Flanonenfis, and the fame author relates the death
of Gallus Cæfar in thefe parts, by order of Conftans, who was
then at Milan.t
Attila, who did fo much miſchief to Italy, carried alfo de-
vaſtation and ruin to the ifland and city of Ofero, making ufe of
the gallies of Salona, for that purpoſe.
こ
​After the decline of the Roman empire, Cherfo and Ofert
changed mafters often; fometimes being annexed to the Greek
empire, fometimes to the crown of Hungary, and ſometimes
*fubject to the Bans, and the kings of the Slavi; but without
any remarkable events to render it illuſtrious.
ART SE
}
}
About the middle of the IX century, Saba, a captain of the
Saracens, plundered the iſland; and it appears, by the chronicle of
Andrea Dandolo, that, in 991, it was under the dominion of the
Republick of Venice. The Doge Pietro Orfeolo II. landed there,
and received honours as Lord of the iſland. It ſeems moſt rea-
ſonable to fix the dedition of Ofero about this year. I have ſeen,
however, in fome Mfs. memoirs, that Ofero gave itſelf up fo-
lemnly to the republick of Venice in the year 1018. Such
D dd 2
202. 10
a dif..
† Paul. Diac. lib. 12. Hift. mifc. Socrat. Hift. Bules. 1. 2. c. 27. Niceph. Callifi,
7. 9. 6. 32, Sozamen. 1. 4. c. 6. See Note at page 368.
$
1
T 388 1
a difference in opinions is a neceffary confequence of the bar-
barity of thofe times.
{
In, or about the year 1130, Guido Palani, fon of the Doge Pie-
tro, was proclaimed count of Ofero by the people; and a fon of
the Doge Vitale Michieli was elected count not long after the year
1156. From the high rank of theſe counts, it is natural to
conjecture, that the Venetians looked on this kind of fovereignty
as a matter of dignity and importance. Lucio (1. 4. c. 8.) in-
finuates, fomewhat maliciouſly, that the Venetians often elected
thoſe counts, and not the people of the iſlands. I can affert,
however, as a certain fact, that, from the year 1180 to 1304, the
iſland in queſtion, was poffeffed, as an hereditary county, by
the noble family of Morofini, to which it came by Daria Mi-
chieli, who married Ruggiero Marofini, ſon of Domenico, count
of Zara, and nephew of the Doge.
3
>
This Ruggiero Morofini had, before his marriage, the inveſti-
ture of the caſtle of Cheffa, and its diftrict, fituated on the iſland
of Pago, which was then under the Venetian dominion, the
inſtrument ſtill exifts made by the Doge Sebaſtiano Zianiîn 1174.
In 1202 Daria Morofini, of the Michieli family, by the grace of
God countess of Ofero, propoſed to the people of Arbe, to renounce
her right to the caftle of Kefla Veterana, and its dependencies,
on condition, among other things, that they ſhould elect her
fon Robert count of Arbe. And in 1203, Ruggiero, the husband
of Daria, is ftyled, in a ducal letter of the Venetian hero Enrico
Dandolo, who manifeftly acted as having high dominion over the
iſlands, Count of Ofero, Abfarenfis Comes.
>
Marino
{
I 389 1
Marino Morofini did homage to the Doge Dandolo in 1:280,
and the act is ftill extant, as well as the others alluded to; and
in 1283, the fame Count Marino, in a writing of fettlement with
the inhabitants of Cherfo, is called count and lord of the diſtrict
of Cherfo. This Marino, who commanded in the war of Iftria,
with a valour correfpondent to the iffue of it, was the laft here-
ditary Count of Ofero and Cherfo. He died in 1304, or a few
months before. The people of Ofero petitioned the republick to
fend them a count or governor every two years; and Andrea
Daurio, or Doro, was the first who went there in that character.*
Since that period, the iſland has not fuffered any confiderable
change; only it was greatly molefted by the Ufcocchi, during the
war which the Venetians were obliged to carry on againſt thoſe
robbers. And here I cannot help obferving, that M. de la Mar-
tiniere has not performed the part of a faithful hiftorian, in fay-
ing, that this iſland was given to the republick of Venice, only
in 1410; about which year, indeed, there are many records which
feem to indicate the dedition, but they appear rather to prove
only a confirmation or repetition of the reſpective acts of fubjecti-
on and dominion, as may be reaſonably fuppofed from what I
have already mentioned.
Of the Divifion of the Ifland. Its Towns and Villages.
Cherfo and Ofero ought indeed rather to be called two iflands
united, than one ifland alone; but the channel of the fea, that
divides them, is ſo very narrow, that it can ſcarcely be reckoned
any feparation at all. Some authors, and particularly Farnabius,
207
as
*All the above mentioned documents, and many more, ftill exiſt entire in the
private and publick archives of the iſland; fome of them are alfo printed in the
work of Lucio.
[ 3.90 ]
I
as may be ſeen above, believed, without the leaft foundation,
that there was a river in the iſland called Apfirtus. And Cluve-
rius, imagining there was not only one channel near Ofero, but
two more, towards the north point, fays, that Cherfo and Ofero
ought not to be called one ifland, but properly an aggregate of
four iſlands; and he made out the four parts thus ; Cao, † Fare-
Jina, Cherfo, Ofero. Perhaps this very learned man has been
deceived by fome inexpert navigator; for, in reality, there is
only one channel of the fea, namely the Euripus, that divides
the mountain and the rest of the iſland from the fouth
part
Cherfo, and the city of Ofero, and they are joined by a bridge,
at the city, which bears the fame name.
{
ふ
​1
of
Trend of sh
I think I may be permitted to confider both parts divided by
the trait, as one iſland only, on account of the contiguity, and
artificial connection, as well as of the uniformity of ſoil, pro-
ducts, and inhabitants.
1.
{
A
I
{
4
1
کار
Cherfo, Ofero, Loffin grande, Loffin picciolo, Lubenice, and Cai-
fole, and the moft confiderable places of the iſland. Nerefine,
Orlez, Urana, Cacichi, Bellei, Uftrine, and fome others, are only
poor villages, or miferable hamlets, inhabited by poor unpoliſhed
people, without induſtry, and without bread. I fhall fpeak of
the city of Cherfo in the laſt place, as moſt deſerving of notice.
{
الله لام
· Ofero
+ Philippi Cluverii Italia antiqua. 1. 1. c. 21. Quatuor erant infulæ Abfyrtides,
quarum maxima ac media vulgo dicitur Cherfo: huic magnitudine próxima ab auſtro
Ofero; reliquæ duæ ab feptentrionalibus Ferofina, & Gas &c. In Blau's atlas the
divifion of the northern point is alſo marked, as it is in other maps of leſs value,
which probably have been copied from him.
}
1
1
[ 391 ]
3
Ofero, which had the names of Apfyrtium, Apforos, Auxerum,
Auxeros, and Atoppor, is the only town on the island, as far as
I have hitherto feen, where memorials of noble antiquity are
actually preferved. It is built in a triangular form, on the point
of Cherſo, which juts into the fea in 32. 21. of longitude, and
44 54. of latitude, and is bathed by the Euripus, which falls
very rapidly, and flows up again in a few minutes. The geo
grapher of the Encyclopedia, fays, "it is a city of Italy fituated
"on an island of the fame name, in the Adriatick." The island
of Ofero, however, is not in Italy; neither does the city of Ofero
ftand on the island that bears that name. Perhaps the Chevalier
de Jaucourt copied this error, without further examination, from
de la Martiniere's dictionary; and la Martiniere probably took it
from the inaccurate Magini.* Father, Coronelli, who wanted to
do too many things, and therefore did few of them well,
has however fet this city in its right place; and this is one of
the few occafions, in which that good ecclefiaftick has choſen
the right fide, between two contrary opinions. The French
geographer, therefore, chofe a very improper time to reflect, in
fevere terms, on Father Coronelli, becauſe he had placed Ofero in
its true fituation. Echard likewife in his geographical dictio-
nary, and his tranflator M. Vofgien, believed that the city
of Ofero ſtood on the iſland of that name. And many years be-
fore them, Abraham Berkley, the commentator of the compend of
Stephanus Byzantinus, † by an oppoſite miſtake, believed firmly,
*
C
!
+
}
that
Magini probably took this error from Domenico Mario Negro, a geographer:
of the 15th century, who has it in his VI. comment geograph. depending on Pto-
lemy, and not remembering Mela.
t V. Diction. geograph. hiſt crit. de la Martiniere, art. Ofero, & Echard dic
tion, geograph. ab Anglico idiomate in Gallicum tranf. opera D. abb. de Vofgien
Steph. Byzant
Άψωρος πολις Ιλλυρίας. Ηρωδιανος ογδόν.
Of
b
[ 392 ]
1
that no fuch city as Ofero, now exiſted, leaving ſcarcely room
to fuppofe, that, on the island of the fame name, there had been
fuch a city in ancient times,
*
Ofero at prefent contains only two hundred and fifty inhabi-
tants; fo that the apothecary there is alſo the advocate, and the
physician follows the plough. We were much pleaſed with
the Doctor, who, by cultivating a barren field, was endeavour-
ing to make amends for the miſchief his medicines may have
done; but we thought that the apothecary might have been ſa-
tisfied with one hurtful profeffion.
The air of Ofero is quite peftilential in the heat of fummer;
and the cauſe is obvious; there being near the walls, feveral
pools of brackish water, which, through the ignorance, negli-
gence, poverty, and fmall number of the inhabitants, have no
outlet, and fo become putrified together with the reeds and in-
fects. Some have attributed the unwholeſomeneſs of the air to
the vicinity of the mountain which interrupts the free courſe
of the wind; but had they been stopt there for feveral days by
the fury of the wind, they would not have thought fo. The
cauſes of the malignancy that infects the atmoſphere, are
vifible in the neighbouring fields, and under the very walls;
and it is truly melancholly and painful to ſee a city well fituated,
and populous in other times, now reduced to ruin, and almoſt
uninhabitable by an evil that might be eafily removed. There
are even ſufficient funds in the place itſelf to defray the ſmall
charge that would be requifite. Several good fimple benèfices
are annexed to the church of Ofero, which hitherto have rarely
D
On which Berkley writes the following note:
ferved
In ea nofter vehementer fallitur quod urbem hoc nomine ftatuat. Nifi exiftimes
in ifthac infula urbem ejufdem nominis extitiffe.
[ 393 ]
ferved any other end, than to reward fervices done to a foreign
Court, and perhaps fometimes to the prejudice of the paternal
maxims of the Venetian government. It is to be wiſhed that
the time were near when the hand of the fovereign fhall interfere,
and turn theſe benefices to the relief of the afflicted people, and
to the redemption of that unhappy place. Surely the uſe of
theſe facred revenues might very laudably be applied to the ad-
vantage of the people, to whom, by right they belong. Abufe,.
and preſcription can never render poffeffion legitimate to thofe:
who do nothing in behalf of the languiſhing population of Ofero,
though they enjoy their fubftance which in happier circumftan-
ees were piouſly offered, and to labouring minifters. The de-
fcendants of thofe good chriſtians now form a fqualid and miſe--
rable flock, from whom even their own biſhops keep at a dif-
tance, with non-apoftolick example; notwithſtanding, it is evi--
dent that a little money circulated, with charity and attention,
would be fufficient ftill to free Ofero from malignant infection,
and enable it to acquire freſh vigour, and a population more:
proportionable to the fituation in which it was built with excel-
lent defign..
The ſkeleton of a city, where perhaps there are more ruined.
and uninhabited houſes than inhabitants, had the title of Biſhop--
rick fince the time of Budimiro, the firſt. Chriſtian king of Dal-
matia. Its cathedral is a folid fabrick, and the front of it is-
not in bad tafte; the fteeple is alfo magnificent, and not of bad.
architecture. The Saracens deftroyed and burnt this place about:
the year 840, and fince that time it never recovered itſelf.
1
In former times the people of Ofero had many privileges, as
all the other people were uſed to have, who fubjected themſelves
Eee
હું માર
fpontaneouſly
[394 ]]
t
(pontaneoudly to any prince, but they are now almost all loft,
through the decay of population. Yet in this place, where
every thing that contributes to the pleasure of life is wanting.
the archdeacon Sovich lives contented with a philofophical me-
diocrity. He is a man diſtinguiſhed for true piety, as well as
for his profound knowledge of the ancient, Illyric tongue, and his
cordial hofpitality.,
Loffin Grande, called Lofinium in the records of the middle times,
ſtands on that part of the iſland which has, the name of Ofero,
towards the fouthern extremity: it contains about fifteen hun-
dred inhabitants, among whom are many commanders of hips.
The houses are fufficiently well built. They diftil a quantity
of ftrong liquors, which are little or nothing inferiour to the
beſt in Dalmatia.
!
、
t
Loffin Picciolo, a few miles diftant, is built on the curvature
of a hill which forms a very narrow isthmus. The houſes lie
towards the ſouth east, around the harbour called the valley of
Auguftus, from an old tradition, that that emperor wintered
there with his fleet. They form a very agreeable amphitheatre
from the top to the bottom of that half-moon. Every houſe
has its little garden, where the odour and verdure of the orange
trees continue the whole year round. This alternation of houfes
and verdure revived the idea, which, by reading the travels of
the celebrated Andrea Navagero, in Spain, I had conceived of
the Morefque habitations, which, when that gentleman went
Ambaffador, were not altogether deſtroyed in that kingdom.
The inhabitants of Loffin Picciolo amount to about feventeen
hundred. They cultivate their little hills with fome, degree of
induſtry, though in that refpect, they are far inferior to the in-
habitants
L
* ! 1
[395]
395 ]*
*
Habitants of Cherfo.
Many of the inhabitants are employed in
the fishing, and at fea.
The women are extremely robuſt, and
accuſtomed to carry very heavy burdens on their head, as well up›
Fill ás down..
* low 16 V
+
វ
7
{
1
'
کو
1 3
7
The people of this country are generally quite the contrary of
cleanly, and the children particularly are quite loathfome. The
fmall pox did
déſtruction not long ago, and the marks
great
that remain on a great number of perfons, have deformed them
in an unuſual manner. We thought the inhabitants of Loffin
Picciolo were no great lovers of ſtrangers; and this is perhaps the-
effect of a habit of thinking of gain on every occafion. The want
of hofpitality is the general defect of commercial countries, as
Uh the contrary, the most generous and cordial hofpitality is
practiſed by nations deprived of commerce. The ifland, at this
place, is not a mile in breadth. At the east end of it, there is
2
a church of S. Martino, which has a good picture on the greats
altar
10 79112
bam
P
小
​144
4
Lubinice and Caifole, are at prefent villages of little confidera
tion, though they were more remarkable in paſt ages. They
have two collegiate churches officiated in the Illyric language. -
Gafole must have been a place of importance in the time of Ti--
Berius, as various infcriptions are found there, and ſome of them
illuftrious. It is probable there have been many more which are
now buried under the rubbiſh. It would be to little purpoſe to
take notice of the other villages fcattered over the ifland. In
theſe, a poor prieſt, learned in proportion to his riches, directs
the fpiritual concerns of a meager, ſtupid flock of ugly, poor,
lazy people. The churches are miſerable and ill kept, nor could
they well be diftinguiſhed from ftables, if they had not a kind
1
*
Eee 2.
1
of:
|
[896]
3
of altar, and a wretched belfry. The paftors would more fea-
dily infpire fear than devotion, if the good nature of the nation
did not ſecure a stranger who meets them.
1 2
1
Of the City of CHERSO.
1
*
५
L
The city of Cherfo, about a hundred and fifty miles diftant
from Venice, is fituated on the western part of the island, long.
32. 25. lat. 45. 8. at the bottom of a large harbour, capable of
containing any fleet; it lies at the foot of a chain of hills, which
extend along the fea fide, forming many finuofities. The go-
vernor refides here; and ufually, at leaſt for ſeveral years paſt,
the biſhop alſo, who ſcatters, at a distance, paternal benedictions,
and ſpiritual fuccours, on his unhappy, fickly, and hungry flock
at Ofero. The number of inhabitants in the city of Cherfo, is
above three thouſand. Its ancient name Koea, Crepfa, is not
found mentioned by any author before Ptolemy; Pliny calls it
Crexa, or at leaſt the Crexa of Pliny is thought to be Cherfo by
many writers; which I fhall neither contradict nor affirm...
Among the
120
{
3000 inhabitants which it contains, there are about
ecclefiafticks, including a covent of friars, and a monaftery
of nuns; too large a number indeed, in a 'country where hands
are ſo ſcarce. Among the houſes too, there are an exorbitant
number of little churches in the Greek faſhion. It were to be
wiſhed, that theſe ſerved at leaſt for lodging to ſtrangers, as they
do* in the Archipelago. In that cafe they would become much
more uſeful than they are at prefent; as there is no publick
place of lodging in the city, and ſtrangers are obliged to diſturb
fome courteous inhabitant, whoſe civility they can hardly hope
1
'
*V. Tournefort, Voyages du Levant, T. 1. p. 336.
{
to
[397 1
to return. In the whole island there are, I ſuppoſe, above two
hundred of thofe chapels, ruinous for the most part, naked, mi--
ferable, and officiated rarely or never. Their titular faints are
venerated under the moſt ugly afpects that can be imagined.
They are repreſented either by ſtatues of rough ſtone, or of wood,
worked out of all proportion and human likeneſs. Yet ftill the
low people pay the greateſt devotion to theſe deformed monſtrous
figures, and it would be dangerous to endeavour to deprive them
of thoſe objects of fuperftition.
J
Thoſe who cannot relifh this grotefque tafte of popular fuper-
ftition, will be pleaſed to ſee a very fine picture in the great altar
of the cathedral of Cherfo. Andrea Vicentino, who painted here
the miracle of the fnow, has made an excellent work, and far
fuperior to his others. The glory, in particular, is highly finiſh-
ed, and full of expreffion.
2
The ſtreets of Chero are generally narrow and dirty, which
not only does diſhonour to a town of fome confideration, but is
alfo prejudicial to the inhabitants. Though the air is very good
and wholeſome, the stench of the common fewers not properly
minded, and the introduction of a ſhallow bafon of fea water
within the city, called the Mandrachio, exhale fuch fetid vapours,
as may eafily become pernicious in the hot feafon. To theſe
two nuiſances may be added the two ſtinking pools called Raz-
ziza and Cruſſia, kept open by the people, notwithſtanding their
corruption, becauſe in former times, they were fountains of good
water. It would be a great benefit to the city, if the government
ordered the Mandrachio to be deepened and cleanſed; and a trial
to be made if the two pools could again be rendered uſeful; or
if not, to be ſhut up.
In
ir
00:
Rofत
[ 398 ]
4. Doan giao hoa ac cho
1
In fo numerous a population, which goes on increafing ever
LOC
TO
Abode Icɔore ad?
veig bus ylangd
elroy
dT dora Jnsibilit
>>
TUQlO3 V16b sofoow it
year,
as well through internal cauſes, as by the acceffion of fo-
reigners, invited to live under the mild government of the re
publick, there is a very ſmall number of beggars. The people
of Cherfo is generally very well clothed, according to the custom
of the country, not ragged and nafty as in many of the neighbour-
ing places. Their cloaths are made of a coarfe dark coloured
cloth, as all the Illyrians uſe to wear; a cuſtom kept up for many
ages, and taken from the Scythians, their anceſtors. In the time
{
t
いい
​1
d007
Bu
volds
الرد
of Herodotus, a part of the Scythians were called exarxavo
that is wearers of black cloaths.
برات
DAB
i
J
01
T
*
The moſt dangerous distemper at Cherfo, is the dyfentery;
which fometimes makes great havock on the iſland. In general,
however, the people are healthy, and of good conftitutions. Pro
bably their affiduity in working, together with the goodneſs of
the air, contributes to maintain them in this ſtate. The chil--
dren of the low people are employed from their tendereft age,
either in cultivating the land, fiſhing, or attending the cattle.
Many are employed in the manufacture of Raftia, which is
coarfe kind of woolen ſtuff, and perhaps takes its name from
Rafcia, where it forms a confiderable branch of trade. The fpi-
rit of economy is one of the principal characters of the mothers
of families at Cherfo; and ladies in the eafieſt circumſtances, do
not think it below them to overlook their domeftick affairs; their
cuſtom is to rife with the day, and they reckon idlenefs and tha
famy.
E
MONITO
J
"
A
Among the chief families of the iſland, are thoſe of Colombis,
Bocchina, Moiſe, de Petris, Zambelli. They are all equally hof-
pitable and courteous, of which, during our ſtay there, we had
fufficient
£ 399 1
fufficient proof. Theſe iſlanders not only preferve the cuſtom
of wearing dark coloured cloaths, like their progenitors, but alſo
the ancient modes and focial virtues. Kindneſs to their gueſts,
honeſty, and piety formed the character of the Illyrians two
thouſand years ago, of which the most ancient of the geogra-
pher poets has left us his teftimony.*
โ
50 34 gran
។
F
را
f
.
} }
There being no public ſchool at Cherfo, learning is not much
cultivated. Yet there are fome learned ecclefiafticks' among
them; and Dr. Artico, a phyfician, does honour to the city,
though not born there, by his learning, as well as by his fince-
rity and eafinefs of manners. Perhaps the want of a fchool con-
tributes in part to maintain the indocility of which that people is
accuſed; and other particular caufes, which are foreign to my
purpoſe, conçur now and then to enforce it.
>
!
},
}
}
+
*
3
10
;
The Slavii, or Sclavonian language, which is more widely
diffuſed than any of the other European dialects, is commonly
uſed by the people, and the peaſants of the island, and they
ſpeak it in a manner not inelegant. Many words and phrafes,
analogous to the Greek, are met with in common diſcourſe, as
daite mi malo piti, "give me fomething to drink", which feems
nearly allied to date μor μanov Tive; trapeza, a table; mys, a
δώτε μοι μᾶλλον πίνειν
mouſe, alli, but; and firomah, poor, which feems taken from
the greek pos. They alſo uſe the greek í for interrogation, as
T aś
ti miete? why do you laugh? And they have articles, incre-
ments,
d
θεοσεβείς δ' αυτές αγαπ
Kai opoopa dixoius, Paos, Proves Seymnus Chius, inter Geograph. min. Hudfon.
[ 400 ]
ments, the dual number, and other analogies to the greek fyn-
tax.
*
The
* The Slavic nation and language are the moſt extenfive of any in the known
world. From Carniola to the fartheft confines of the Ruffian Empire one may
travel with this language alone, and for a large breadth of country. All the na-
tions of Scythian original (if the remoteſt antiquity of origin does not alter the
rule) uſe dialects more or less different, but who all have common roots; and
the languages of all the countries over which the defcendants of the Scythians
fpread themſelves, carrying war and defolation along with them, and founding
new kingdoms, adopted many of their words. Hence we meet with a confider-
able number of words in the Italian language, of which we know not either a
Latin or Greek root, and which have it in ſome of the Scythian dialects. They
have either been brought, in very remote times, by the firft inhabitants, or more-
probably by the Goths, who were Geti, before they removed from their native
country to the north, from whence they came to us. And as many of their
words remained in Italy, fo there are alfo many, more or lefs altered, in the
countries beyond the mountains, which they invaded, and poffeffed in the low
ages. The English, French, Spaniards, Germans, Swedes, and Danes, find
traces of the Scythian language much more manifeftly in their idioms. That the
Germans alfo were defcended from the Scythians was the opinion of the great
Leibnitz, who used to call them vagina gentium
The Greek, and the Latin which was derived from it, have both a great num-
ber of words which might be demonftratively proved of Scythian original, and
not communicated from Greece to the Scythians; and therefore, to endeavour to
find out the origins of that language, of which the plaineft veftiges are met with
in all the living, and dead languages proper to Europe, would be an undertaking
full of difficulties, which would require very great ſtudy and fatigue, and the re-
fult could not be contained in a moderate volume. The emigrations of the Scy-
thians did not begin where hiftory begins, but long before it. The Veneti, for
example, whoſe name originally is fynonimous to that of Slavi, and equivalent to
glorious, had given the denomination to ancient Venice, long before the new ir-
ruptions of the Scythians came to difturb them; and the time of their arrival is
not known. It is, however, by many ages, anterior to the fettlement of the
Venedi on the coafts of the ocean, and of the Windi on the borders of Liburnia·
The Slavic, and Illyric language has two alphabets. The firft is called gla-
golitic,
[ 401 ]
The number of inhabitants in the iſland of Cherfo has proba-
bly been more confiderable in former times than it is at preſent.
Fff
The
golitic, from the letter G, called Glagoglie, and in our times, is ufed only in
the facred books. The Abbe Cemente Count Grubbiſch has illuftrated it, in a
treatife full of erudition and good criticifm; and I have availed myfelf of many of
the remarks of that learned writer. He makes it the fame as the Phrygian, and
fupports his opinion by ſeveral good reafons; the invention is aſcribed by Cicero
to Hercules the Egyptian, or, according to Herodotus, to Atlas who was ftill
more ancient. The old Glagolitic had only eighteen elements, like the ancient
Phrygian, and the Greek. It probably paffed from the vast extent of Scythia to
Phrygia, Greece, and the northen countries; and it is obfervable, that the order of
the Glagolitic correfponds almoft exactly to the Greek; and feven of its letters are
actually the fame in figure and found as ſeven of the greek alphabet uſed in the moſt
ancient times in Greece. Hence it comes to pafs, that the Runic alphabet,
brought in all probability, by the Geti into the north, agrees in the number and
found of the ancient Ionian letters; and there are feveral greek elements in it, as
well as in the Glagolitic. Among others there is the H, not as ra, but an af-
piration, as it was reckoned in the Greek provinces in very old times till the XCIV
olympiad. This letter H with only its primitive tone of afpiration, together
with an ancient II, which much refembles the Glagolitic, and pofterior Runic,
is ſeen in the celebraeed inſcription of the column of Milos, which probably is
of anterior date to the LX olympiad, preferved, with many other Greek and La-
tin monuments, by the noble Venetian Cavalier and Senator Jacopo Nani, equally
loved and eſteemed for his focial virtues, learning, and military fkill and valour.
This promifcuous fimilarity of letters, and communion of words and fyntax be-
tween Scythia and Sarmatia, and Denmark and Sweden, the leffer Afia, and the
Archipelago, inſtead of convincing me that it was derived from greek travellers
and traders in remote times, rather makes me fufpect, that it paffed into Greece,
as well as many other parts of Europe, by means of the Scythians, who were
conftantly emigrating, invading and feizing the fubftance and poffeffions of
others. Finding moreover that many words Latin, Greek, and Italian, are, as
it were, ifolated in the refpective languages to which they belong, and, in the
Ruffian, or fome other Scythian dialect, are accompannied by all their deriva-
tives, which is a proof of originality and antiquity, I am more and more con.
firmed in what I juſt now alledged, and my fufpicion is changed into opinion:
[ 402 ]
1
The ruins of habitations ſcattered over the iſland evidently prove
this. There was a time, however, when the whole island had
only
and this is further ftrengthened by the refpectable teftimony of thoſe authors,
who attribute the origin of the Tufcans, and confequently of thofe people who
defcended from them, to emigrated Scythians. Father Perron in 1699 had col-
lected above twelve thouſand latin names manifeftly derived from the Scito-Celtic,
either by way of the Greeks, or through the Umbri, or Ofei, races of the Celti.
It is a thing worthy of obſervation, and perhaps fingular in its kind, that the
denominations of the Glagolitic letters are difpofed and chofen in fuch a manner
as to give them a fenfe, and thereby to include two very important fentiments,
Az, Buk, Vid, Glagoglie, Dobſo, Fest, Xiveto, Zelo, Zemglie, &c, I, God, Food, I
fpeak, a good thing, it is, the life of, country, earth, &c. Thofe Nomadi had need.
of fuch an advertiſement, to induce them to cultivate the ground..
The Cirilion alphabet has alſo much of the Greek in it; but the exterior figure
of the elements does not always agree with their found. The Ruffians make ufe
of it in their books, coins, and in private writings. Many of our Illyrians, eſ:
pecially thofe of the Greek rite, likewiſe uſe it. Several men of learning have
wrote concerning the Illyric or Slavic tongue, its origin, extent, perfections, &c.
The Ragufcan friar Dolci derives it at once from the tower of Babel; and fo takes
the moft religious, and fhorteſt way of accounting for it, in his book De lilyrica
linguæ amplitudine et vetuftate, Ven 1754. Conrad Gefaer will have it to come
from the German tongue, and feems too partial to his own country, in his work
de differentiis linguarum. The great Leibnitz thought that the many words analo-
gous to the German, which are fcattered in the Greek, and even in the Perfian,
ought to be derived from the Teutoni, whom he acknowledges were primitive Scythi-
ans, and always in alliance with the Celti, Galli, and other Scythic nations.
But it may be gathered from what he himfelf writes, that the Teutoni brought
thoſe words from the Black Sea; and ſpread them over the internal parts of the
continent, but did not carry them from thence to the Black Sea. Of all the au-
thors who have wrote on this fubject, none, in my opinion, has treated it with
fo much good fenfe and erudition as the learned Abbè Grubbifch, in his differta-
tion publiſhed at Venice in 1766, by Paſquali, entitled: Difquifitio in originem &
Hiftoriam Alphabeti Slavonici-Glagolitici, vulgo Hieronimiani. Befides thoſe already
mentioned, many others have wrote concerning this matter, efpecially foreign
anthors, among whom the following merit particular mention, Herbeftein de rebus
Mofcoviticis ;
[ 403 ]
only five thousand inhabitants; about the year 1640, it had five
thouſand fix hundred; at prefent, the population of the iſland
greatly exceeds eight, and perhaps amounts to nine thouſand.
The augmentation is confiderable in proportion to the ſhort term
of years which produced it.
Of the nature of the foil of the Island.
The foil of both parts of the iſland is in general mountainous,
and ſtoney. There are large tracts of ground entirely ſtoney, bar-
ren, and naked to a degree, which helps to form an idea of the
eaſtern deferts, in which all is parched, fteril and defolate. It
Fff 2
is
Mofcoviticis; Brerewood de fcrutinio religionum; Jo. Leonard Frifchius in his dif-
fertations de Hftoria lingua Slavica; Abr. Frenzelius, who wants to have it de-
rived from the Hebrew; Edward Barnard, who has wrote a differtation de conve-
nientia linguæ Britannicæ cum Slavica, quoted by Loefcher in his Litteratura Celtica,
which makes a part of the book Orbis Eruditi Litteratura a charactere Samaritico
deducta. Oxon. 1689. fol. Jo. Erbinius, who in the Crypta Kiowienfes, &c. Jen
1675,
alſo thinks it defcended from the Hebrew. Kirchmayer, who printed a trea-
tiſe at Wirtemberg in 1697, de lingua Slavonica; Martin Gujabove de Razize de
utilitate linguæ Slavonica; and laftly, not to mention many others, Jo. Pet. Koh-
lio who wrote a treatife concerning the Storia Letteraria degli Slavi. Albonaviæ
1729. I have taken the greatest part of thefe informations from the valuable an-
notations of the noble and learned Count Trifone Wrachien, confultor of the
moft Serene government, who very generously contributed to reduce this work
into form.
I have found, on a very curfory fearch, the following words used in our verna-
cular, and in the Tufcan dialect, which have a near relation to the Ruffian and
Servian; and am fully perfuaded that many thouſands of the roots of Italian words
might be found in the various dialects actually ſpoken by the Slavic nations.
From which are derived our vernacular words: miro, trozo, fgargajo, britola,
tetta, fbiro, ſcorabbiar, tochio, Poleſene, banchi, polegana, gondola ſvodar, mutria; and
the Tuſcan words, botiglia, ceppo, nocca, muſchera, ftravizzo, batocchio, caleſſe, baf-
tarde, ghietto, pantofola, feſte, oftaggio.
[ 404 ]
is probable, that the Greeks of the low times changed the ancient
name of the iſland into that of Cherfo, Xepros, induced by the af-
pect of thofe tracts of abandoned country. The largeſt of theſe
deferts is a level furface of hills five miles in length, from Orletz
to Vrana, along the road that leads to Ofero. The inhabitants
call thofe places Arabia Petrea. They furnish, however, excel-
lent feeding for fheep, which crop the grafs and fweet herbs
that grow between the ſtones, and thereby become not only ex-
ceffively fat, but give milk uncommonly rich and of exquifite
taſte.
The Arabia Petrea of Cherfo produces the fame kind of ſhrubs
that are ufually found in ftoney and mountainous fituations.
Bruſhwood and thorns are thick there, but very low, and wi-
thered towards the north eaft, whence the wind blows, with
fatal violence, from the mountains of Morlacchia. On that fide
the junipers, and other plants are equally hurt and kept down.
Where the plain inclines a little towards the fouth, the plants
are covered from the blafting wind, and thoſe which are only
fhrubs in the expofed fituations, grow there to the height and
thickneſs of trees. The trunk of a juniper is often above a foot
in diameter, though growing among ftones; other fhrubs grow
alfo to a proportionable fize. Over the whole extent of the tops
of the mountains, which run longitudinally from N. E. to S. E.
forming as it were the backbone of the iſland, there are but
very few trees, and thoſe are all bent by the violence of the wind,
which blows moft in the feafon when the fap begins to circu-
late.
Rara, nec hæc fælix, in apertis eminet arvis
Arbor, & in terra eft altera forma maris.
The
[ 405 ]
The top of a Fillirea is often fix or eight cubits diftant from
the foot, and not more than two or three above the ground.
The fap, interrupted in its natural courfe by little branches wi-
thered by the wind, fends forth a number of ſmall ſhoots by the
fides of thoſe blafted the year before; and theſe are deſtined to
wither in their turn when the windy feafon returns.
The trees
on thoſe heights feem as it were accuſtomed to theſe viciffitudes,
and maintained by art. The fame wind which blows with pe-
riodical impetuofity has, without all doubt, co-operated more
than any other cauſe to change the fuperficies of the tops of the
mountains, by pulverifing the earth, and carrying it away; at
leaſt whatever the heavy rains had left behind, after the extirpa-
tion of the ancient woods, which probably covered the hills of
the iſland in more remote ages. Scymnus Chius, fpeaking of the
"that
islands of the Quarnaro, in the above cited verfes, fays,
"they had an excellent foil, that neither fnow nor ice continued
long there, but the rains were frequent and plentiful, and fud-
“den ſhowers fometimes fell, which maintained a fertile freſh-
"nefs and moiſture in the ground". It is very probable, that
the vapours being intercepted by the woods now rooted out, and
the moiſture preferved by means of the leaves and roots of the
trees, the fields below were always kept cool, and well watered.
The iſland at prefent fuffers from a fcarcity of water, at leaſt,
for the irrigation of the fields, though there is fufficient plenty
in the wells. At a little diſtance from the city of Cherfo there
is a confiderable fountain, which rifes at the foot of a hill, and
almoſt immediately lofes itſelf in the fea. It is commonly called
the fountain of the Turks, becauſe the merchants of that nation,
who come to trade in the iſland, ufually go there to perform
their legal ablutions. Five miles from thence there is another
called
1
( 408 )
called the fountain of St. Biagio, but not fo confiderable as that
of the Turks.
+
The ſtones with which the higher parts of the iſland are co-
vered; though they are all of a calcareous fubftance, have one
diſadvantageous quality. They are generally equal in hardneſs
to the moſt compact travertine marble, or the common marble
of Iftria; but they do not yield much to time, or the action of
the meteors; ſo that, in a reaſonable courſe of years, they can-
not be diſſolved, or produce an acceffion of marly earth fit to
correct, or meliorate, the ſtiff reddiſh irony ſoil, which is the
moſt common. In fome parts, however, there is a better kind
of earth, at the foot of the hills, and on the heights alfo, in
fome uneven tracts, where the force of the winds is interrupted,
and the declivity formed in fuch a manner as not to carry off all
the rain water, but rather to render it beneficial. The part of
the iſland that lies towards the weft has greater plenty of trees,
and is leſs expoſed to the wind; confequently the land is better,
and of greater depth: but they fay the air is not very healthful;
and probably it is true, on account of fome ftanding pools, and
the too great humidity of the ground. And here it is to be re-
marked, that, commonly, the ignorant think nothing less than
a large lake is capable of corrupting the air, and of confequence
ſmall pools, or damp fields are little minded: a pernicious pre-
judice, and of very bad confequence to thofe who ignorantly
neglect the ſmall beginnings of great evils.
Of the Cultivation of the Island.
The hills to the northward are woody, and not well adapted
to cultivation. The plains alfo on that part of the iſland that
are
[ 407 ]
are fit for the richest products, are often abandoned and unculti--
vated through the want of a fufficient number of inhabitants.
On the other fide of the channel of Ofero, the hills are lefs
rocky; but the mountain, from the middle upwards, is totally
ſteril, and produces nothing but wild fage. The perpendicular
height of this mountain is not, I believe, above the third
part of
a mile; but lying iſolated, it is quite expoſed to the fury of the
winds. On the top of it, in former times, a hermit uſed to
dwell; but the hermitage is now deferted, and it is open to view
around; being the higheſt place in the Quarnaro. It would not-
perhaps be in vain to look, on the fides of this mountain, for
the veſtiges of the ancient temple of Diana, which gave name to›
the iſland, and of which Apolonius of Rhodes fpeaks..
The ſmaller adjacent iſlands have ordinarily a fhallow foil, and
are rarely cultivated, or have any particular proprietor. No
ſmall part alſo of the lands of Cherfo and Ofero is in the fame
condition; and the first occupier enjoys their fpontaneous wild
fruits. Befides the ground called common, which at prefent
renders nothing at all, though it might become of great value if
properly cultivated, even the large poffeffions which belong to
the proprietors of lands, now neglected and barren, might be
rendered rich and fertile by a fufficient number of hands, and.
proper culture..
J
氨
​The valley in which the city of Cherfo lies, is naturally no
better than the reft of the ifland; and, in all appearance, if it.
were abandoned, would foon become ſtoney, barren, and horrid,
like the hills which riſe on the fide of the harbour, at a diſtance
from the habitations, and are equally deprived of the improve-
ments of art, and the favours of nature,
One
1
I 408 ]
.
T
**
131001
F
“One of the moſt beautiful profpects, that a lover of agricul-
ture can fee, is the country that prefents itself on entering the
bay of Cherſo from the fea. My learned friend Mr. Symonds
who had vifited all Italy in a moſt attentive and particular man-
ner, with a view to examine the methods of cultivation in the
various provinces, declared that he had not ſeen any where a-
mong us ground managed with a greater degree of induftry
The variety of verdure. of the olives, vines, and corn fields
which at a diſtance, form one field pieced out in gradations of
different colours, is a delightful ſpectacle beyond all expreffion.
Between one piece and the other of cultivated land no neglected
part is feen. The afperity of the rocks, and the ſteepneſs of the
hill did not difcourage the laudable induſtry of the inhabitants,
who have formed all round their city a garden equally pleafant
and uſeful. This fpectacle, which pleaſes at a diſtance, ſurpriſes
when near.
It would be well indeed to fend to ſchool at Cherfo
the fons of our lazy and carelefs peafants, who inhabit the deli-
cious and too rich hills of the Venetian continent Chero de
ſerves´ to be there` Athens; for there, example, if nothing
elreld
would ſhow them, that no foil is fo ftubborn, which induſtry
difigence, obfervation, and neceffity, the mother of them all,
are not capable of cultivating to great advantage. Oxen are not
much uſed for tillage in thofe parts, as that is almoſt wh
wholly**
performed by the laborious and ſturdy arms of the men, who'
are generally well paid for their labour, in proportion to the
ſcarcity of hands. Theſe workmen indeed do a great deal more
than ours. They are obliged firſt of all to clear the ſpot appoint-
ed for culture from the moveable ftones, and that is a continual
employment, as the cultivation is dilated every day round about
Cherfo; and theſe ftones they difpofe in little walls wherewith
they furround the field by way of fence and boundary. Generally
r
theſe
[ 409 ]
thefe artificial fields are of a circular, or elliptical figure, and are
called Coronale by the iſlanders; which feems to be the remains
of a cuftom among the firft cultivators, taken from the court-
yard, as being fertile in its influences in the primitive focieties.
Sometimes there are points, or large pieces of marble too deeply
rooted to be removed without much difficulty, being parts of the
ftrata which compoſe the folidity of the hill; and yet thoſe they
endeavour to overcome by all kinds of contrivances and inftru-
ments. It is eafy to imagine how much time and labour fuch
preparations of land require. The narrow extent of ground that
runs along the fea fide in the neighbourhood of the city, needs,
without all doubt, much greater labour to be reduced into per-
fect culture, than would be requifite for four times as much land,
and four times better in the Paduan hills, which nevertheleſs
generally yields not a fourth part of the income.
The vines are generally ill ſupplied with water here, as is the
cafe in all the mountainous parts of the coaft, and the borea
blows with violence from the mountains of Morlacchia, which
hurts, and ſometimes deftroys them. To fupply the want of
the firſt, as much as poffible, and to prevent the bad effects of
the laft, in the places moſt expoſed, the iſlanders ufe to lay a
heap of earth about every vine, which is kept very low, and al-
moft totally diveſted of ſprigs every year, and theſe heaps keep
the roots freſh in the dry feaſon, and in the winter, and during
the windy feaſon of fpring ferve to cover the vines entirely.
They commonly plant their vines as thick as we do Indian corn,
and, they uſe no pales or other fupport for them; indeed they
grow fo very
low-they do not require any. The olives, in for-
mer times, were left entirely to themſelves, and neither cleared
of their fuperfluous nor decayed branches. The cultivators were
Ggg
not
[ 40 ]
1
not eafily perfuaded to change this careless method; and in this
refpect all peasants are alike, and obftinately adhere to the customs
of their forefathers. The example of a few, however, has now uni-
verfally convinced thofe iflanders, and taught them that the olive
tree properly pruned, lafts longer, and produces more
and better
fruit than when left to itſelf. The art of pruning the aliyes is
perfectly understood there, while, to our great ſhame, it is ſtill
quite unknown among us. The ground occupied by the vines
is generally fet apart wholly for them; though fometimes there
are olives planted between the rows of vines. It is very rare to,
fee, in the fame field, vines, olives, and corn growing together
as is frequently the cafe in our hills, through the ignorance of
the cultivators. In the Coronale deftined for olives, no corn is
fown, and, on the other hand, the manner in which they mar
nage
the vines naturally keeps them from hurting the corn, or from
being hurt by it. It is doubtlefs a very unreaſonable and pre-
judicial custom eſtabliſhed almoſt without a poffibility of being
eradicated in our part of Italy, to keep the vines faftened to large
trees' full of branches, and in the fame field to have icorn aro
ther grain growing, for the corn and vines are both greatly in
jured by the roots, branches, fhade and other influences of the
trees.an to her T
u bo dod gn.val
I
200 }
ནས
boog ut quis ce facto. Toy
}
\
La vachagan 910m zi stut
As the vines are kept very low in Cherfo, fo the olives are not
fuffered to grow high, and in ſome places thefe: two fpecies feem
to be planted too near each other.
い
​for show have not
eet lo gio- bis viilnef scr
*** The woods fituated on the lands of particular proprietorsfate
ill kept, and on the common lands no fuch things now exifts,
they being quite deſtroyed by the barbarous avarice of the natives.
In almoſt all the populous provinces of Europe we find the fame
inconvenience
14
D
[ 41 ]
; و
inconvenience took its rife, from the fame defect in the partition
of lands. And hence fome uſeful regulations have been made
in England concerning commons. In Switzerland also it has
been demonftratively proved, that the inftitution of commons is
pernicious, as it tends to exhauſt and ruin the ground, to dimis
niſh the rents, and to leffen induſtry. Notwithstanding, how-
ever, the great abufés in this particular, almoſt albover the iſland
of Cherfo, there are ſtill fome tracts, where the woods, being
left to themſelves, are furniſhed with large trees; as near the
lake of Jeſèro, and in the neighbourhood of the hamlets of Bel
lei and Caciebi. There, on the left fide of the road which., leads
to Ofero, you ſee a pleaſant little valley almoſt furrounded by a
wood of old elms, that form a dark and cool ſhade. This is
one of the most delicious fpots that can be feen; no don (woj
Ka Dawn Mi -8×1
२
3 w
>
$
-5 Since it has been proved, by feveral partial facts, that the foil
of this iſland is extremely fuitable to the production of large
trees, when fuffered to grow, and that the moſt naked and ſtoney
parts would well reward the induſtry of thoſe who planted them,
it appears to be an object worthy of the attention of government,
preſcribe proper and efficacious means for renewing and pre-
ferving both private and common woods. This part of agricul-
ture is more neceffary to be well underſtood, and kept in good
sorder than any other; becauſe one error in it may be the caufe of
fatal &confequences for many years, nay ages, and fometimes
for ever without remedy. The fearcity of wood for building,
the ſterility, and ruins of the mountains; the alterations in the
fyſtem of the meteors; the too frequent and dreadful inundati-
ons, with all their fatal effects; and many other miſchiefs, are
owing to the ill management, rooting out, and improper way of
cutting of the wood.
consinsvnoomi
Ggg 2
Concerning
1
[412]]
{
20 at a plno do vody dadw to
Concerning the Products of the land
'
enw ad
qoqra joa
The oil of Cherfo, which is reckoned the beſt in quality of
any matie in the Venetian ftate, is the most valuable product of
the-inland. According to the calcuations of the inlanders them-
felves, they make from three thoufand" to three thoufand five
hundred barrels a year. The price of oil is generaly four ſequins
a barrel; in former times it was much cheaper. Though the
Cherfines do not exactly follow the Tufcan method of preparing
the olives, they come at leaft very near it. Their oil would be
as thick and diſagreeable to the taſte as that uſually made on
our continent, if, according to the fame flovenly method, they
let the olives ferment and rot without ftirring them. They are
careful to avoid this defect, as well as the ftupid and abfurd me
thod of gathering them practiſed in many other places. In 'the
kingdom of Naples, and in feveral other parts of Italy!! they uſe
to beat the branches with long poles, in order to make the fruit
fall. This foolish method, befides hurting the plants, and
fpoiling many branches that would bear the year following
makes the ripe and unripe fruit fall indifcriminately, and bruifes
a great deal of both kinds, whereby they become rancid in dthe
heaps, and give an ill flavoured oil. 11 - 12 ci înmuIÊ
}
10
}
The greateſt part of this oil is exported out of the island, but
almoſt all the value is required for the purchaſe of corn, of
which the inhabitants do not raife enough to maintain them four
months of the year. They uſed to be ſupplied with this article
by the Turkish merchants, at a reaſonable price in times of peaces,
but fince the war with Ruffia they have been obliged to make:
their provifion elſewhere with much greater chargesora ingur
simonun fear sea dire
The
L
[ i 413 + Jį
[1413
The wine, of which they make only a few hundred barrels
for exportation, though the product might eafily be much in-
created, is not of a perfect quality in proporiton. to the oil.
This is probably owing to the little knowledge and care they
have in gathering, and preffing the grapes, and in fermenting the
wine. I have tafted very good wine in private houfes; and no
doubt great improvements might be made, if the people were
more attentive and better inftructed in this article. Honey, and
wax might be expected to form rich products, and eafily pro-
cured in an iſland where the hills are for the moſt.
part covered
with fweet herbs; yet they are very inconfiderable, and more
neglected than they were in former times. Thoſe few, who
keep hives, follow the cruel and inconfiderate method of killing
the bees every year, crushing them together with their labours,
a brutal cuftom, by which not only the bees are loft, but the
fine quality of the honey is alſo ſpoilt; which, if properly
managed, would be nothing inferior to that of the neighbouring
city of Fiume, and would make an uſeful branch of trade.
gniwolle)
3331
29 The figs are excellent, but no great quantity is exported
perhaps the yearly value that comes in for this article does not
amount to four hundred ſequins.
3
{
บ
The finer fruits for the table, fuch as peaches, pears, apri-
cots, and the like, are rarely cultivated in the ifland; confe-
quently they are ſcarce, and but indifferently good. The Cher-
fines do great injuftice to their own induſtry, as well as to the
happineſs of their climate, by neglecting them. It ſhould feem,
that the mild temperature of the air, under which they live,
ought to encourage them to have their gardens well provided
with the moſt delicate fruits. Befides the foftnefs of the climate,
7
A
there
I 414
Y
A
1b 36 cacd to chat vibe
there is another circumstance, which might induce them to try
85 90 91
this kind of cultivation, and that is, the facility of tranfporting
their fruit to Venice. The paffage requires no long time, and
frequently may be made in fewer hours than must be en
be employed
in tranſporting the Paduan or Vicantine fruit to the capital,
Befides, the culture of fruit trees requires no very great attenti
on; which is an advantage that ought alfo to be calculated in a
country, where the affiduous labours of the peasants are conftant-
ly needful for the corn, vines, and olives, the principal, and
fure products.
7 0
IC
WE A
हूँ
The Maiz, or Indian corn, is not much cultivated, nor would
it turn to account in this iſland, as it requires rich and moift foil,
reſembling its native land of America. The people of Cherfo
judicious enough not to endeavour to force this grain to grow
on the parched fides of their hills; and it would be well if our
mountaineers followed their example,
SICK
svig blo.
20010
VIL >
2
Ward ell'edt lo sbb
ชื่อ
2
Pulfe, and garden herbs, thrive very well, but the inhabitants
?. 008
think little about garden ftuff; their whole attention being
taken up
about the more important improvements of their vine
and olive yards.
FOS
25.00
ار
$ 1
I
1 {
f I
Sabre calving undi
DOVE TR
I believe the culture of potatoes might prove very ufeful to
this country, as well as to ſeveral others in the neighbourhood
though perhaps they have been recommended with too much
folemnity, for our rich and fertile lands. With us they may be
to emchlo bit
of advantage in preparing the land, but in thoſe mountainous
countries they might ſerve, as in Scotland, for food to the inha-
bitants. They would be very convenient for hilly countries
which produce little corn: and the common people of Cherfo
would
}'
wis-beary onohoe hand. *
こ
​L
{
415 )
I A
would gladly make ufe of them, as they now eat, I know not
m a mud dond
whether through depravation of taſte,
pred sabieravation or by cuftom, which
haps took its rife from fome former famine, Tmall loaves I
すぐ
​per-
made
of roots of the Arus, macerated with a little water, and reduced
Esvelgms od dun
to a pafte exactly in the fame manner as is ufed in fome parts of
Sweden.***
Thefe loves have a kind of fweetiſh tafte, but too her-
bacious. They cannot naturally be very wholeſome, and the
careless manner in which they are baked muſt contribute much
to preſerve the cauftick quality of the Arus.
A
JUA DES
7
息
​A
As the culture of potatoes, and other farinaceous roots in this
iland would prove a very opportune relief to the poor, in confe-
qence of the fcarcity of corn; fo the introduction of cheſt-
nuts in the rocky and naked parts, would be a moſt advantageous
improvement, and in the courſe of a few years would how its
good effects. Befides the great yearly benefit of a fruit reducible
to bread, and which requires very little care, the inhabitants
might, in the courſe of time, recover fome good land on the
fides of the hills by the defence the chestnut-trees would give
it from the wind, rain, and fcorching heat of the fun, and of
courfe the aridity of the country would be leffened. In the hills
of Bologna, in many parts of Tuscany, the Modaneſe, and in
other provinces out of Italy, the cheſtnuts are actually the man-
na of the mountaineers, who feed on them almoſt all the year
round, and are well fatisfied, healthy, and robuſt to an extrao-
dinary degree. Nor can it reaſonably be alledged that the cheft-
nut tree would not grow on the iſland of Cherfo, as might be
faid of fome other plants, and exotick methods of cultivation; for
that tree is very easily reared, and much in ufe among the Auf-
Arian fubjects on the neighbouring continent. This fuppofition,
0
THE
obrodo
Heav
J
to c
- 1
{
-
* V. Linnæi iter Oelandicum, & Gothlandicum
o bas
that
*
[ 416 ]
that trees and feeds are exclufively adapted to thofe countries
where they more'frequently grow, is a mere prejudice. We fee
every day that many Afiatic, African, and American plants
grow, thrive and bear fruit in the gardens of Europe as if in
their native foil. It is indeed our fault, that, in the prefent
age, when botany is fo well underſtood and cultivated, that the
curious, inſtead of the uſeful plants, ſhould be brought from thoſe
remote climates. The ancients were more judicious in this re-
ſpect than us; for they were at pains to introduce into Italy
many fruit trees of foreign growth, which now commonly pafs
for ours originally. Lucullus was the firft who brought the
cherry-tree to Rome, from Cerafunte, a city of Pontus; and
not long before the elder Pliny's time, peaches had been
brought to Perfia; pears are of Egyptian, or Syrian origin; and
cheſtnuts, nuts and forbs came from Afia. We fee daily whole
fields covered with American maiz; and many other exotic
grains begin to be cultivated in the gardens of the curious be-
yond the mountains, which will afterwards pafs into the corn
fields, and become common. Mr. Graffenried, a Swiſs gentle-
man, has naturalized, in his lands of Worb, a great number of
ufeful American plants, which now require no more particular
attention, but grow just as if they were in their native country.
If the inhabitants of Cherfo fhould refolve to make plantations
of chefnut trees, it would be of great fervice to graft them on
Carpini, as they would come fooner to maturity, and with leſs
trouble.
2
→
,4
To study to render uſeful any tract of land, which now is al
together unfruitful, cannot be reckoned quite labour in vain;
and it certainly would be a wife meaſure to give encouragements
and premiums to thofe who fucceeded in fuch trials. The
{
go-
vernment
[ 417
]
2000 0
+
'
W* a ** aber bee asia g
vernment might do this without any charge to the revenue; the
part of the tithes, which ought to be diſtributed among the
poor, would be fufficient to ſupply all the needful premiums,
Though the firſt trials might poffibly produce no great effects,
yet every little improvement would be a real advantage in a
country, where eighteen hundred acres, at only twelve miles
diftance from the city, do not actually yield thirty pounds fter-
ling to the proprietor, who is Signor Jacopo Colombis, a hoſpi-
table gentleman, and a promoter of good cultivation. Perhaps
alfo, by theſe means, the population would encreaſe confiderably,
and if fome other improvements concurred to give a more ſpeedy
profit, the happineſs and riches of the iſland might be formed
in a ſhort term of years. † But let us leave projects, which,
however reaſonable and eaſy, are apt to meet with nothing but
ridicule, and return to the actual products of Cherfo.
M138 Y
&
r}
Firewood is alfo a confiderable article of active trade, eſpeci-
ally in the northern part of the iſland which we had not time to
vifit. This product is valuable and important on account of
the great confumption in the metropolis; but there is not now-
that
plenty of wood there was in former times, a great part of the
3
hills being quite bare. It will ftill go on diminiſhing, if the
13
*.*.
T
ف
Hhh
+
1
wifdom
}
T
* The tithes of the island of Cherfo and Ofero are diftributed in four parts.
One part is affigned to the poor, and is adminiftrated by managers appointed by
the bishop; the fecond is allotted to the church for reparations, ornaments, &c.
The third belongs to the Canons of Cherfo and Ofero, Lubenicè, and Caifole; |
and the fourth is affigned to the bishop over all the diocefe. In the two Loffins
the portion of the poor was long ago given to the parish priest and curates, who
have ho certain funds for their maintenance,
MRGY OF WUCT
い
​+ The tranſportation of idle and vicious people, of which there is always plen--
ty in the great cities, has contributed not a little towards the population of Ame-
rica.
[ 48 ]
11
th. She sat 45
{
វ
wildom of government does not think of fome new regulations
to prevent the abufe of former laws. The trees commonly uſed
for fire wood, are the common and ever green oak, the selmand
afh, befides wild vines, the arbutus, philerea, juniper,-&kalmadî
700hd 103 adā es qbood exam
The white mulberry tree has hitherto been almoft quite«né>
glected; though there is reaſon to hope, that there will foon be
fome confiderable plantations made. Several proprietors™ › of
lands begin now to open their eyes, and think ſeriouſly of turn
ing a part of them to advantage, in fuch a manner, as requires
the leaſt number of cultivators, in order to render the produce
of their poffeffions confiftent with the ſcarcity of labourers,
which now obliges them to leave a great deal uncultivated and
barren. The writers on agriculture of our days; feldom take
notice of this material circumftance, being generally more eager
in recommending ſpecious projects, whoſe merit often lies more
in appearance than reality, and therefore ſeldom prove of general
arfeng dust.
***UDA00 900 vlan
emalq desig, ni
291 at are yo
ป
The various kinds of fhrubs and plants for dying, which grow
in great plenty on the iſland, might eaſily be rendered more ufez
ful than they are at prefent. They might in ſome meaſure ſupg
ply the place of wine, which is neither very plentiful nor good,
and often not to be had by the poor labouring men, as they
do in the neighbouring province of Carniola. The liquor they
make there is wholefome and agreeable to the tafte, though nof
thing elſe but an infufion of the berries of the red juniper, which
alfo grows in great plenty in the island of Cherfo The prepa-
ration is extremely fimple. They fill a wooden veffel fet apart
for that purpoſe half full of berries, and pour a fufficient quan-
tity of water on them; then cloſing the veffel, they let the in-
infufiom
J
↓
[ 49 ]
7
{
, *
fufion ferment two or three weeks, according to the feafon,
and then broach it for daily ufe. As they might imitate the
Carnians in this piece of economy; fo they might as eaſily avail
themſelves of the great quantity of the fruit of the arbuti to
make brandy, as the inhabitants of the iſle of Andros in the Ar-
chipelago do.* But the people of the town, and in the neigh-
bourhood of it, are too few for the neceffary work, and thoſe
within the country are too ftupid, and indolent to attempt any
thing new, unleſs forced to it by extreme neceffity. Therefore
the red juniper berries are left to fall uſeleſsly, nor do they ga-
ther the arbuti, nor the grapes of the lambrus, which grow in
great plenty, and are fuffered to rot on the trees, though, with
a very little industry, they would afford an excellent liquor, as
they do in feveral parts of the continent. The lambrus of Cherfo
is frequently as thick at the root, as the old vines with us.
grom sal her
3
$
}
Among the plants, that might be employed for dying, the
only one commonly made uſe of is the lentifcus, which grows
in great plenty, particularly about Ofero. They uſe the leaves
of this tree carelessly bruised, to give a kind of coffee colour to
their nets. t. For that purpose, they lay the nets in infufion to-
gether with the pounded. leaves, and leave them to ferment in
the water till, the colour is given. The rubia is entirely neglec
ted they even do not know it, though common enough in the
iſland. It would be well if the inhabitants could be perſuaded
to employ their women and children to gather the feeds of this
plant, and, by that means, to cultivate and propagate it, as the
experiments related by M. d'Ambournay of Roan prove,
that it may be more advantageouſly uſed freſh, than when dried.
Hhh 2
}
}
of
t
nodvini V. Tournefort, Voyages du Levant.
[ 420 ]
Of Shrubs and Herbs useful, or hurtful.
Our ſtay in the iſland was not long enough; and our mountain
and littoral journies were rather too quick to give time for our
learned companion, the profeffor of Botany, to make a good col-
lection of plants. At any rate, I fhould think this little work
wanted a material advantage, if I neglected to infert his annota-
tions. They will certainly be very acceptable to the lovers of
that part of natural hiftory. * Some of them may be an object
}
of
"* Cynogloffum Lufitanicum. Planta pedalis. Radix lignofa, biennis. Folia
“ ovato-lanceolata, integerrima, villofa, ad bafim ciliata. Caules læviter ftriati,
"fcabri. Flores parci, foliis oppofiti, cæruleo albicantes. Semina parva, muricata.
"Caucalis grandiflora. Involucri univerfalis foliola duo reliquis majora. Lin-
næus unum ponit.
66
"Ornithopus Scorpioides. Scorpiurus muricata. Coronilla Cretica. Flores
“ coloris varii, nonnulli varii, reliqui albi. Legumina non femper quina.' Petioli a
bafi ad dimidium ufque langinofi effentialem fpeciei caracterem conftituunt.
"Aparine, femine Coriandri faccharati.
6.6
* Linnæus inter Galia nullam mentionem facit.
Similis fpeciei Sicula, de qua
x
"Echium vulgare, Althea Cannabina. Geranium Ciconicum. Lamium
purpureum. Agrimonia Eupatoria.
"Gladiolus communis. Hyoferis Hedypnois. Braffica Eruca. Eryfimum
“Alliaria. Orobanche, flore cœruleo. Solidago virga aurea. Punica Grana-
"tum, fponte. Tamus communis. Dipfacus Fullonum. Bupthalmiun Spinoſum.
"Lithospermum officinal. Delphinum Confolida. Convolvulus Althæoides.
* Verbafcum Phoenicium. Color florum fæpe obfcure purpureus. Salvia officinalis.
"Laurus nobilis. Euphorbia Amigdaloides. Myrfinites. Spinofa. Sorbus
"domeftica, confpicuæ quandoque, infigniſque proceritatis occurrit.
65
:
嗦
​Vitex Agnus caftus. ibi arboream magnitudinem acquirit. Caulis, fcilicet Trun
cus diametrum habet quandoque pedalem.
<
"Phyllirea latifolia, arbor facta. Truncus fæpe diametrum habet pedali majorem:
"Juniperus communis, eadem magnitudine infignis quam frequentiffime.
"Vitis Labrufca. Sefquipedalem diametrum non raro acquirit, pone lacum vulgo
a di Jefero..
Onoſma
† 421 ]
of mere curiofity; and the people of Cherfo may draw advan-
tage by the ufe, or culture of fome others. I fhall fay fome-
*
thing
"Onofma Echioides. Radix lignofa, perennis, digiti craffitie, intus alba, extra
obfcure purpurea, Caulis pedalis a bafi ramofiffimus, ramis purpurafcentibus, hiſ-
*pidis. Folia radicalia, lineari-lanceolata, conferta, caulina alterna lanceolata, fub-
finuata, feffilia, hifpida. Bractea hifpidæ, & Calices. Flores albi, conferti, nú-
"tantes. Antheræ inter fe convexa, uti in Cerinthe,
conjungenda eft. habitat faxa fterilia.
"hlafpi faxatile. Onofma orientalis. Prope Apforum.
cum qua genere naturali
Lotus
έσ Cyperus fempiternus. Prenanthes purpurea. Ruta graveolens.
«Dorichnium. Linum alpinum. Flores maximi respectu planta; Caules fpitha-
mei, procumbentes.
Anthoxanthum odoratum.
прива
Anethum fæniculum. Hedyfarum faxatile.
"Afphodelus marinus, Alyffum montanum.
Alyffum montanum. Beta maritima. Arethufa Nea-
politana Hac circa Neapolim tantum, nec alibi in Italia.
: :
"Mirtus communis; frequentiffibus in collibus.
* Juniperus, fručtu rubro, magnitudine conſpicuo.
"Ciftus Salvi-folius. Flores modo albi, modo purpurei. Petali decidui. Petioli
* florum alaţi..
ac
« Arbutus Unedo, cum qua pulcherrimum nemus conftituunt.
"Laurus nobilis, Phyllirea latifolia, Viburnum Tinus, Piftacia Lentifcús,
Erica arborea, flore albo, Hex minor, Coronilla Emerus, ec. Staphylæa Euro-
pæa. Prafium majus. Glycyrrhiza glabra. Lotus hirfutus.· Gaules fubpro-
«cumbentes, hirfuti. Flores in capitulum. Galices hirfuti, purpurafcentes. Corolla
* vexillum fupra rubrum.
<< Solanum dulcamara. Piſtacia Narbonenfis. Petioli purpurei, foliola ovata,
« integerrima, puncto acuto ad apicem glabro, fuperne viridi, fplendefcentia.
Lathyrus Niffolią. Folia linearia, acuta, pedunculis longiora. Stipulæ brevifima,
• fubulata. Pedunculi folitarii, vel biflori. Corolla purpurea, carina alba. Caulis
fimplex angulatus.
66
«Tamarix Gallica. Bupleurum rotundifolium. Chenopodium vulvaria. Ga-
«lium. Foliis fenis, linearibus, acutis; pedunculis bifloris, caule procumbente. Cau-
les duo pollicares, annui, tenuiffimi, dichotomi. Foliola fena linearia, lineas duas
longa, rigidiufcula. Flores minimi albi.
"Lapfana Zacyntha. Egilops incurvata. Teucrium.
«Rubia peregrina. Cypreffus pumila,
6 Pafferina
(( (4227)
}
1
、《 t
thing concerning feveral plants of the aft -ddfs, adheringbby
that means, to my principal ſcope, which is to be uſeful, us
much as lies in my power, to thoſe inhabitants by whom I have
been ſo well received and treated,
aďa ni za ‚0) 19d)
201
'
**{ *
f
datok tot buvorg sdt
90[W$
The common odoriferous Salvia reigns almoft to the exclufion
of every other plant in ſeveral tracts of Cherfo and Ojero. The
medicinal virtues of this "plant are univerſally known, and the
learned as well as unlearned phyficians, know it to be cephalick,
alexiterick and ſtrengthening. The Chineſe, who fell their tea
to the Europeans, wonder how there can be fuch a demand for
that herb, which, in their opinion, is of much lefs worth than
The Salvia, of which there is fuch abundance in Europe. The
Hollanders buy up, at a low rate, as much Salvia as they d
find on the coafts of the Mediterranean, particularly in Pro-
vence, and fell, or give it in exchange to the Chinere, from
whom, they ſay, they receive double, and ſometimes
tfiple the
quantity of tea. Why might not we alſo endeavour to traffick
for our Salvia with the few Hollanders who bring us their bad
ſalted or ſmoked fiſh? The iſland of Cherſo and Ofero, together
with thoſe in that neighbourhood, would furnish thoufands of
buts.
+
$ 1
}
can
‛;¥ཎྞཱ་
* out of alle
*}011x- 01 Vittube
facd
R
The lentiſcus grows fpontaneouſly, in great plenty in the neigh-
bourhood of the city of Ofero. This fhrub, which never lofes
its leaves, might perhaps become of ſome advantage to the than
ders, and deferves to be cultivated, at leaſt for a trial. The
iſland of Scio in the Archipelago, derives the principal article of
?
•
£ 2
"
ら
​$ I
میرا
އ
trade
bamsetts
Į
* '
Pafferina hirfuta. Afperago procumbens.
Aliffum Gemonenfe.
[ 423 ]
trade from it. The maftich, which the Sciots gather from it,
is fold very dear, at Conftantinople, and in many parts of Afia.
If it could not be gathered three times a year, on the island of
Cherfo, as in the Archipelago, perhaps it might be done once or
twice; the ground is of little value there, and the culture of the
plant requires very little time, and only a little fimple attention.
The maftich iffues from the incifions made in the lentifcus in the
month of July, and falls on the ground, or is gathered in dre ps
before it falls. The Sciots are careful to keep the ground about
the tree very clean, that the purity of the gum may not be ſoiled
when it falls. In the islands of the Archipelago, they alſo make
oil of the feeds of this fhrub, and the Turks prefer it to the oil
„of jolivesto both as a medicine and for burning. The phyficians
attribute to it an aftringent quality, and uſe it in procidences of
the rectum and matrix. A decoction of the wood of the lentiſcus
is held in Germany for a wonderful ſpecifick againſt the
gout;
and as a tonick and dulcifier.
प्रे
01
mon
3111 910
samm or
bid
#
༢༣
7
Not only the lentifcus, but various fpecies of Cistus, generally
known by the name of Salvia, are found in plenty in the woods
of Cherfo, Among thefe probably the ladaniferous fpecies is
alfo to be found; but the Cherfines have not yet exerciſed their
induſtry to extract the ladanum. In the Greek islands, the
prieſts uſe to collect it about the beginning of Auguſt; and
Tournefort, in his voyages, has given us the defcription of the
method they ufe. It is exceedingly fimple. They faften thongs
of leather to the ends of long poles; and with theſe they gently
beat the tops of the cifti; the refinous matter ſticks to the lea-
ther, and they pull it off when dry. In Spain, the peafants
extract the ladanum from the cifti by decoction, but it is not
eſteemed. In the Levant much more ufe is made of this drug
{
than
[ 424 ]
1
我
​than among us: The Agnus caftus, Ornythopus, Cynogloffum,
Lupulus, Smilax Spinoza, and many other medicinal plants grow
there of their own accord; but nature has alfo planted the Sø-
lanum, Hyofcyamus, and Euphorbia particularly, infuch abun
dance, that, in fome places, hardly any other herbs are to be
feen. Of this laft fpecies of hurtful plants, the peasants of the
ifland have courage to make ufe of the decoction as a febrifuge;
though, probably, fooner or later they feel the bad effects of it.
Animals.
}
J
Sheep are the most numerous fpecies of quadrupeds on the
iſland; oxen, beaſts of burden, and hogs, being in no great num
ber. Theſe may amount to ſeventy thousand, * and the pro-
prietors pay only half a fol of capitation, for them. Yet the
charges are fo great, together with the thefts of the fhepherds,
and the mortality, that, on an averge the proprietors do not
clear a fixpence a head yearly, including the product of the wool
and lambs. The wool of Cherfo is not of good quality, and
therefore the ordinary price does not exceed three-pence, to four
pence a pound. The ſheep are not of the beſt breed, and per-
haps that circumſtance contributes towards the badneſs of the
wool, befides the bad management the flocks are under. They
live conſtantly in the open air, under a climate rather irre-
gular, and without any kind of ſhelter to retire to, either in rain,
fnow, or other ftormy weather. The rocky and wild places,
£
4
+
f L
$
where
* About the middle of the laft century, P. d'Avity, an accurate geographer for
his time, wrote, that there were a hundred and fifty thoufand theep on the
ifland of Cherfo and Ofero. No doubt the increafing cultivation of the land has
hurt the propagation of flocks, by turning a great number. of the. Inhabitants
from a paftoral life,
}
1
[425]
1
1
where they feed, are full of thorny plants, which tear away a
part of their wool. The difperfed and careleſs way in which
they are kept, caufes many lambs to pariſh, and even ſheep alſo,
which might be faved by more careful management. The an-
nual loſs amounts generally to four thouſand by mortality, with-
out any epidemical diftemper. Falls from fteep rocks, the fnow
under which they are fometimes buried many days, and the dogs
that purſue them, are the principal causes of fo confiderable a
lofs. The iſlanders, however, are not altogether to blame in
expoſing themſelves voluntarily to this lofs, being obliged to do
fo, in order to avoid fomething worfe. The Morlack robbers,
and particularly thofe of the Iftrian colonies, * Caftelnovo, Car-
nizza, Medolino, and Altura, too often land on the iſland, and
carry off all the animals of every fpecies that they can collect to-
gether, and that frequently before the eyes of the keepers them-
felves, who are not in a condition to oppoſe armed plunderers.
If the flocks were united in large numbers together, or houſed,
theſe robberies, which cannot be prevented on an iſland open on
all fides, would be much more detrimental. The scarcity of
population does not admit of a better fyftem; and hence every
proprietor of flocks, or feveral together, entruſt them to a fhep-
herd, each marking his own fheep by different cuts in their ears.
Poultry and all domeftick fowls would thrive exceeding well,
but corn being fcarce, they coft too dear, and therefore few are
Iii
kept.
Caftelnovo is the ancient Nefactium at the mouths of the Arfa. Livy fpeaks
of the fiege and deftruction of that ancient city, in the XLI book. It was one
of the principal cities of Iftria; and if we believe Appian, Metulium was the
capital of Iftria, which fome think correfponds to Medolino, at this day a very
wretched village, though deliciouſly fituated, and inhabited by a poor, idle, vi-
cious people. There remains no veftige of ancient grandeur, if the ancient If-
trians had any thing that could be called grand.
[426]
} {
kept. A capon cofts ufually eight or ten Venetian fivtes. The
ſcarcity of domeftick fowls is,
fowls is, however, compenfated by a great
abundance of wild fowl and game, fuch as partridges, turtle
doves, hares, rabbits, &c. The inhabitants ufe no nets, hor
fnares in order to catch their game with little trouble. Polecats
are very common, and their ſkins are carefully collected and
fent to Venice, where they have the art of dreffing them ſo as to
reſemble the fur of the marten. Thefe good iflanders perfuade
themſelves, that no fpecies of poiſonous animals can live on
their ifland, and the common people do not fail to attribute this
circumſtance to a miracle of St. Gaudentius; a pious credulity,
to which father Farlati, in his Illirico Sacro, gives his affent,
We however, faw vipers there, of which the bite could not be
very falutary. Many creditable perfons alfo affured us, that fer-
pents of an enormous fize are fometimes met with, fome of
which are a foot in circumference, and three or four yards long;
others more rarely feen, are two feet round, and lefs than two
yards long; which defcription agrees very well with a fpecies
of ferpents very frequently feen on the coaft of Guinea. We
however faw none of thoſe monftrous ferpents, either alive or
dead.
7
>
}
***
*Several other iflands boaft the fame privilege, among which are Candia, Mal-
ta, and Ireland. Of this laſt iſland Adrianus Junius (Jonque) a native of Horn
in Holland, and a writer, traveller, and phyſician of the fixteenth century, Tung
thus:
Illa ago fum Graiis olim glacialis Ierne
Dicta, & Jafonia puppis bene cognita nautis,
"Cui Deus, et melior rerum nafcentium origo
Jus commune dedit cum Creta altrice tanantis
Noxia ne noftris diffundant fibila in oris
Terrifica creți tabo Phorcynidos angues ;
S
Et forte illati comprèſſis faucibus 'atris "
Virofo pariter vitam cum fanguine ponunt.
$
t
1
(427)
dead. Thoſe who affured us of their existence, added that they
were amphibious, and uſually inhabited unfrequented bays.
C
t
E
……. Our time did not permit us to obferve the variety of birds and
infects.
९
f
Of the Fishing.
}
About three hundred perfons of the city of Cherfo, and a much
greater number in the other places of the iſland are employed
in fishing. The fea thereabouts is plentifully ftored with tunny
fish, dentali, mackrel, and an infinite quantity of fardines, which
are falted, and diftributed in barrels all over the ftate, forming
a very confiderable branch of inland trade. The product of
this fishing, and of that of the tunny, is not eafily calculated;
as it depends not only on the more or lefs numerous paſſage of
the fishes, but alfo on the number of fiſhermen who concur for
the feafon. There are fix principal pofts round the island of
Cherfo, for catching the tunny fiſh, called by the iſlanders Ton-
nere. The Sardines alſo have their conſtant ſtations in their
paffage, one of which is the little island of Sanfego, which we
ſhall have occafion to mention again. Theſe voyages of the
fishes deferve to be obſerved and examined with particular atten-
tion, having ſomething ftill more furpriſing in them than the
paffages of the quails, fwallows, &c. The inhabitants of the
ſea have ſome of their cuſtoms analogous to thoſe of the terreſ-
trial animals, and the emigrations and pilgrimages which fucceed
from year to year under the waters, muſt have ſomething very cu-
rious in them. The regularity, and the mutability of theſe voy-
ages appear to me ſo much the more worthy of obfervation, as
hitherto they have been but little obferved in our feas, though
the ſmall diſtance of one ſhore from the other, and the frequency
of
Iii 2
1
2
[ 428 ]
↓
of iffands invite to examine the works of nature, which in the
fubaqueous kingdom, has fcattered wonders far more amazing rea
latively to us, than in the terreftrial. Nor ought this examinas.
tion to be eſteemed an object of mere curiofity, as many cond
fiderable and effential advantages to commerce might refult from
it; for example, to change a branch of paffive into active trade,,
and a hurtful and expenſive article into a lucrative and uſeful
one!
f
१
f
い
​The immenfe quantity of mollia, and their almost infinite va
rity; the multiplicity of aquatick infects: the very confiderable.
number of the ſtoney labours of various polypi: the many ſpecies
of fishes, and teftacei, which require to be examined with leifure
and diligence, would form a long, affiduous, and no leſs ´ufèfúl
than delightful occupation to a perfon travelling from rock to
rock, and led by genius and eagerness to acquire new intelligence
in natural hiſtory. The muſeums of the curious in this.
l
*
}
*
J
}
country,
,
น
r
*
* Few authors have hitherto wrote concerning the natural hiſtory of the Adri-
atick; and the worft is, that not even all thofe have fucceeded well. Zanichelli, a
Venetian apothecary, publiſhed a large volume in folio, delle piante del Lido Veneto,
and filled it with figures which are good for nothing Count Ginanni of Raven-
na, left two volumes concerning the botanical and animal natural hiſtory of our.
ſea, and his book, though it had but little merit, is one of the beft we have,
The figures, of which it has plenty, are very ill executed. Doctor Vianelli, of
Chiozza, and Signor Grifelini, have wrote upon the phofporic points, which are
feen ſwiming in the falt water, eſpecially in fummer, and they both thought,
with very plaufible reafons, that every ſparkling point was a microſcopic Scoly-
pendra. M. Martin Brunnich, publick profeffor of economy and natural hiſtory
at Copenhagen, illuftrious for his. Ornitologia, and his Entomologia Borealis 'pu-.
bliſhed when he was very young, wrote a treatiſe upon the fifhes, obſerved by -
him in a voyage made along the coafts of the Marca, Dalmatia, and Iftria, claff-
ing them according to the method of Linnæus. He also made repeated and exact:
3
obſervations,
J
*
+
7
"
{
*
*
}
វ
[ 429 ]
*
country, who have purchaſed exotick shells, crustacea and litho~-
fiti at high prices, are totally unprovided with thoſe of our own
feara circumftance which not only does no honour to them,
but is alſo an injuſtice to the country, which produces as great
abundance of natural curioſities as any other, and ought.cer--
tainly to be preferred by thoſe who make fuch collections. The
feries alone of petrefcent plants, the wonderful labours of vari-
ous fpecies of infects, which abound in our fea, would afford ·
matter for interefting obfervations, and noble collections, qua-
lified to do us honour, when feen by learned travellers, whọ now-
look upon us with contempt.
3 A 2
{
Befides the fea fiſhing, which is an article of trade, the inha
bitants of Cherſe have alfo plenty of fresh water fish, which
might become an article both of pleafure and profit. They
have
no river, however, as has been wrote by fome who trufted.
tó unexact informations, or to the exterior appearance of the
valley formed by the rain water at Caifole, near the northern
point of the iſland: but they have a lake in which there are
pikes, of above thirty pounds weight, and tenches, eels, and a
other freſh water fish of exquiſite taſte. -
ٹیم کے
1 a
Of the Lake of JESERO..
?
1
1
2
Among the natural curiofities of Cherfo, the first place is due ·
to the lake called of fefero, a corruption of Ozero, or Ezero,
analogous
!་
A
AN
obfervations, in my company, upon the phosphori of the Lagunes, and canals of
Venice; but has not treated of them in the works laft mentioned, probably re-
ſerving them for another occafion, as I do likewife. The celebrated Doctor
Bianchi of Rimini, has given two editions of his valuable book de Conchis
minus notis, diſcloſing in part the riches of our fands, and making various and in-
tereſting reſearches concerning the flux and reflux of the Adriatick. One of the
illuftrators of the natural hiftory of our fea, was the celebrated Vitaliano Donati
of Padua, of whom I ſhall ſay ſomething in a ſubſequent note.
→
[ 430 ]
1
analogous to the word Jezoro, till ufed by the Poles, to exprefs
a lake, or ftanding pool of water. It requires no fuperior
knowledge to judge of the beauty of this lake, as it preſents a
moſt agreeable ſpectacle to the unlearned as well as the learned.
It is furrounded by a chain of little hills for the moſt part of
eaſy aſcent, though in fome places ſteep; its circumference feeins
to be four or five miles, though fome call it ſeven. All that
tract of country is wild and uninhabited. Its bed, as far as can
be ſeen, though the water near the fides, feems to be hollowed
out of the hard ftone. Being fituated at the foot of wild hills,
not well covered with wood, and having too fhallow and too
weak a foil to refift the force of the rains, a quantity of earth
and other matter has been carried down towards the middle of
the lake, fufficient to nourish various plants. Its depth is from
twelve to fourteen feet; in fome places it is more, and the
inhabitants fay, perhaps exaggerating, that in fome places its
depth cannot be meaſured. The figure of this beautiful lake is
near elliptical, only in fome parts it is altered by ſmall finuofi-
ties, which follow the winding of the roots of the hills.
1
In former times, there ftood a caftle on the brink of the lake,
but, now, the principal walls and fome part of the underbuild-
ing only remain. Below thefe ruins there is a kind of pier to
which a boat is made faſt, that has ferved for common ufe, hea-
ven knows how many years. It is leaky, rotten, and takes in
water on all fides; fo there is need of conftant attention to
throw out the water to prevent finking. Perhaps there is not a
bark in the whole world which more reſembles that of Charon,
which has been paffing and repaffing the Stygian lake from the
firft mythological times to thofe of the modern Paftor-Arcadi.
I went on board this antique veffel, together with a gentleman
of
[ 43
]
of the country, who was fo kind to accompany us in our excur-
fions, and a man to row, and to throw out the water: and truly
on our ſtepping in
}
"
.12
}
1
gemuit fub pondere cymba
{
{
$
Sutilis, & multam accepit rimofa paludem. Virg. Lib. VI.
}
M
•
This would be a delicious habitation for a philofopher diveſted
of the paffions that are neceffary to live in fociety! what peace,
and undiſturbed mediocrity might he enjoy! or how charming
a retirement would it be to the melancholly man, who would
willingly bury himſelf there, to be out of the way of creating
gloominefs in others; or of daily increafing his own. From the
tops of the hills the fea is difcovered all round, and all the
neighbouring iflands. The barren wildnefs of the fituation
might cafily be adorned, and rendered fertile by art, if the in-
tention was to reftore it to its former natural ftate. On the
north fide, there is a divifion between the hills, probably made
by the rain waters; and that opens the entry into a valley cover-
ed with old oaks of an immenfe fize, and other very beautiful-
trees, which maintain there a perpetual verdure, and fhade; the
ruftick variety of their difpofition could not have been better
concerted by human tafte. On the left hand, and in front of this
wood, are ſeen immenfe rocks and precipices, which form a
magnificent profpect.
*
The lake is not always conftant in its confines. Sometimes
it leaves a part dry for three or four years, and then rifes again.
At other times it rifes above its ufual level, and after a certain
time, forfakes the ufurped ground. The proprietors of the con-
tiguous lands ufe to fow them when free of the water, and know
in
how
[ 432 ]
1
how to take their meaſures by obferving the ordinary periods,
though they might ſtill make their obſervations with greater ex-
actneſs. The first year they fow maiz, or Indian corn, which
yields no great crop, on account of the weeds that ſpring up
with the grain, and which it is difficult, or perhaps impoffible
to extirpate: but the two or three fubfequent years, they have
very plentiful crops by fowing wheat: the fifth year they for-
bear to fow, expecting the rifing of the waters, which feldom
fails to happen.
་
&
The periodical flux and reflux of the lake of Jefero, puts us
in mind of the extravagance of a river in America, in the pro-
vince of Chiapa, which Father Torrubia affures us, in his natu-
ral hiſtory of Spain, runs three years without interruption, and
is dry for other three years fucceffively. The lake of Ifterbourg
in Pruffia, has alſo a triennial period, and therefore has a greater
reſemblance to our lake, than the nearer lake of Czirkniz in
Carniola. Of this laft, the Baron Valvafori has published a long,
exact, and curious deſcription in his vaft work De gloria Carni-
ola, which is a rare book in our libraries. Cluverius, many
years before, and the famous Jo. Alb. Fabritius, fometime after,
mentioned the fame lake; but the laſt took all his information
from Valvafori.* Every year in the month of June, the waters
E
A
of
*V. Jo. Alb. Fabritii Theologia Aquæ. The part relating to the lake of Czirk-
niz, is alſo inferted in the extract of the work, in the Bibliotheque Raifonnee, but
copied from the Gloria Carniolæ of baron Valvafor, printed at Lubiana, in 1689,
in 4to. a book little known in Italy. After many others, M., Valmont de Bo-
marc, has alſo wrote on this fubject, in his copious dictionary of natural hifto-
ry; but it is ftrange that he has placed the lake in Hungary, defcribed it ill, and
reaſoned poorly enough on it, perhaps by having depended too much on thoſe
who pretended to have been occular witneffes.
་
1
S
1
[
433 ]
1
*,
of this laſt mentioned lake, fink down, through fubterraneous
ways, and carry all the fifh along with them, In the fhort pe-
riod of five and twenty days all the water is gone; they fow
corn on the rich abandoned foil, reap it, feed cattle, and hunt
with all freedom till the month of November. Then the wa-
ters re-afcend through feveral apertures, and in twenty-four
hours time fill the ordinary recipient, and people it with fiſhes,
fome of which are two feet long, and of proportionable weight
The extent of this lake is confiderable, and therefore expressly
marked in the geographical maps. The Baron Valvafori has
endeavoured to explain this phenomenon by means of ſubterra-
neous fiphons, which feem rather to embarraſs the matter,
Mefelius* in the year 1688, gave a very exact account of the
lake of Ifterbourg, near Kauten in Pruſſia. When full of water,
it is very deep, and has abundance of fifh; but it changes its
ftate alternatively, and dries up in fuch a manner, that during
the ſpace of three years the inhabitants hunt, and exerciſe huf-
bandry where the three years before they uſed to fiſh. In this
lake likewife. the fishes return with the waters by unknown
ways; nor is there any viſible ſtream, fountain, or fubterra-
neous cavern that has a communication with it, or runs into it
that has a probable communication with any river. Who
knows? perhaps the lake of Czirknir, known alfo by Strab
under the name of Palus Lugea, two or three other lakes of
Iftria, and its neighbourhood, the perennial waters that run un-
der the mountains, acrofs deep gulphs and whirlpools, and the
lake of Cherfo, have or had originally the fame common ſpring.
Ariſtotle believed, and wrote that the ſpecies of fish by him
called rpix, and by us Sardina, was catched by the fiſhermen
Kkk
$
?
* V. Acta, nat, curios. Dec. 11. n. 5. P. 4.
only
₤434 )
'
44
festes mode
only on its entering the black fea, but vestiges oraão no
never in going out;
becaufe, fays he, it does not ordinarily go out. The reafon
"of this is, that of all the other fpecies of fishes, the Sardine
alone ſwims up the Danube, and when it comes to the dira-
"mation of the river, is carried into the Adriatick. We
**
}
hall a little further on take notice again of this voyage of the
pixia; let it fuffice juft how to have hinted, that fome, not
without reaſon, derive the origin of the refluent lakes of thefe
parts, and the large fiſhes that are found in them, from a dira-
mation of the Danube, or of fome large river communicating
'with it,' fuch as the Sava, perhaps open in former times; and
now covered by the ruins of mountains, and deviated.› This
is a point of natural hiftory nearly connected with other points
faherent hiſtory, and which deferves to be accurately dif-
Seuiffed. 4. ii? Je úg
7
ed vem du
Q
canol and do
}
"1
duind orl
7
1
$
i tu bsrom lif
web
Simver
in d
Vin:wn flods
of the Caverns and Gulphs in add adiera
10 There are feveral gulfs in this ifland of Cherfo, though not fo
Amany as in the neighbouring continent, and particularly of
Iftria. We vifted two of them, but could not go down into
the firſt for want of time, and the neceffary helps, fuch as ropes,
Fadders, lights, &c. It is fituated a fhort mile from the habi-
こ
​→
tation
- 100
3
1
→Arift. Hift. Anim. Lib. VIII. Cap. 1
}
My et
Under the title of the small iſlands adjacent to Eher ſo and Ofero I fhalktreat more
at, large on the changes wrought in Iftria by the fubfidencies of the marbie
Arata. The lakes, the dreadful caves, the gulfs, and the vast depofites of fand
that are to be feen on the hills of that province, and the adjacent Tab
little fandy
iſlands, have all, in my opinion, one common origin, from which, however, I
would except fome particular effects, as proceeding from caufes purely local.
This ſubject would require to be treated expreſsly by itfelf.
{
[ 435 ]
tation of the courteous Signor Jacopo Colombis, at S. Pietro di
Mezzavia
SCIUT CA
ال
+
bed cÂÌ
1.: 9. jers
M
<
Ĉ
رہا
The ground all around is covered with very harp and cutting
pieces of rocks,‹among which fome few trees grow, and bruſh-
wood exceedingly clofe together. This inconmodiqus road
goes bending, a little in declivity, as you come nearer the mouth
of the gulf, and there the trees are not forare. The affes
that furround the cavern are very large, and parts of a ftratum
two feet and a half thick, disjoined by the water, and ſubyerted
for want of an equal baſe, yet ſupported, as it were hanging in
the air by the large roots of the trees, The aperture is about
fifteen feet wide, and is croffed by the root of a large ilex I he
branches of that old tree that incumber the entrance, render, it
ſtill more dark and frightful. The depth of this cavern cannot
be ascertained. A pauſe is ſeen from the brink, which may be
about twenty feet below; but the gulf does not end there,
another lateral hole opening near it, through which the ſtones
thrown in by the curious roll, and rebound a long time before
they ſtop. Of this abyſs, whoſe fubterraneous obfcurity, muſt
be, vaft and interefting, I hope one day to be able to give a
more particular account, if circumſtances permit me to return
to that iſland i as I look upon exact defcriptions of the interior
parts of our globe, to be equally uſeful to mineralogy, as ana-
tomical diffections of the human body are to phyfick. In the
northern part of Cherſo, which we had not time to vifit, there
are many precipices, and magnificent grottos; caverns and dens
well worthy of obſervation, at leaſt, if they correfpond to the
deſcriptions given us of them. The rent of the mountain near
Smerge, where they uſually paſs from Cherfo to the neighbouring
。iſland of Vaglia, muſt be a magnificent ſpectacle to a geologift,
い ​K kk 2 -
if
1
#
}
[436]
if it is true that it is above two hundred feet perpendicular, and
probably ſome intereſting obſervations might be made thereas
cut om sub 36
1
>
The celebrated Scheuchzer has adorned his alpine travels with
many prints, reprefenting fuch like gigantick works of nature.
But the rich, and learned men of his time, contributed towards
the charge of engraving, chufing one or two each, in order to
bring to light the amazing architectonick labours which the
waters, time, and other more prompt and impetuous agents
had concealed among the wild afperities of the mountains, and in
defert places of difficult accefs, where no other travellers but the
lovers of natural hiftory chufe to go.
4-
3
हे
t
19.90
20 The other cavern, or foiba, which we vifited, is three miles
from the city of Ofero, near the ftanza di Ghermofall. In that
fituation there are, properly ſpeaking, three caves which com
municate one with the other. The variety of their fymmetry,
within the fmall fpace of about three hundred feet of ground
ferves manifeftly to fhew what curious and confiderable differen-
ces might be found in the gulfs, precipices, and fubterraneous.
caverns fcattered over the ifland, and eſpecially in thoſe that run
under ground in the higheſt parts of it, where, probably, no
man has hitherto had the courage to penetrate, and where I
would penetrate with pleaſure!
فيها
1975
J
"
'
J
114
i
量
​You
E
F
;
many
2. * L Scheuchzeri Itinera Alpina. Lond. Sir Ifaac Newton, Woodward, andy
of the first names in England, contributed to the impreffion of this work..
Scheuchzer had nothing to think of, but only to fend his MSS. to the Royal
Society.
+19
[ 437 ]
६
S
*
}
?
i
You go down by an uneven fteep path into a large hole; the
aperture of which forms an irregular parallelogram, and runs
between two ftrata of marble inclined in the fame direction.
The ſurface of that on which you tread in deſcending is une-
qual, and full of broken pieces. It appears to have been torn
fuddenly from the other ftratum, which hangs out of its per-
pendicular about twenty feet, meafuring from its greatest
height, which is about fixty. In falling, it feems to have
truck againſt a very unequal plain, and thereby to have been
broken in feveral places. The circumference of this hole,
which wants none of the wild ornaments of trees, bufhes, and
uncouth chaſms, is of fixty-feven feet. The two leffer fides
are formed of hanging grottos, fupported with mafterly negli-
gence, or rather by the niceſt art of nature. Below these the
entry into the two lateral caverns opens on both fides. The
fmalleſt of thefe, which lies on the left hand of thoſe who
deſcend, reaches about fifty-five feet under ground, having no
where more than fifteen feet in breadth, nor leſs than ten in
height. The arch of the entry is very regular, but within, it
is neither magnificent nor ornamented. It has fomething, how-
ever to fupply this deficiency: In the fartheft corner of the
cave, where, with the moft fcrupulous, and exact curiofity, we
went with lights in our hands, we found a depofit of ſemi-
petrified bones connected together by a kind of iron ftoney
ochre. The bones lie, as it were, concealed on the left hand of.
the fartheft hole in the cavern, not jabove two feet from the.
ground, and buried above thirty feet under the fuperficies of the
hill, which is all compofed of marble. Above this hole, not
above two feet broad, the vault is very high, infomuch that it
looks like the cylindrical infide of a tower; in entering, one
is obliged to ftoop very much.
*
YOUSO
$
2
123
WC
£ 688 7
}
$
શું ર
い
​S
1
We returned out of this hole, and crafting over the large cave
already defcribed, we came to the entry of the third cavern,
which exceeds the other two in magnificence, largenefs, and
regularity of architecture. The caprice of the thepherds has
almoſt ſhut up the entry by throwing ftones into it. The re-
mains, however, half open the, fegment of an arch well formed,
and which appears to have pilafters very regularly cut. Under
this arch, fometimes walking, and fonetimes creeping, or let-
ting ourſelves flide backwards, we got into the large cavern. It
is fixty-five to ſeventy feet in diameter, and about as much in
height, and a hundred and fourteen in circumference.In the
middle of the roof, there is a circular aperture, like that of the
of
Pantheon at Rome, which may be about twenty five feet in
diameter. *
If the arch of this fubterraneous rotunda were bgt
embarraffed with ſtones thrown in from above, it would form
ſtill more ſurpriſing ſpectacle. On the right and left hand of
the entry, the ftrata are inclined in a ſtrange manuer, one again
the other, and they appear to have been thrown into that not-
natural fituation by fome great ruin. The great convergent
angle formed by them ferves laterally for the vault. The fide
of the cave bends a little above the arch of the entry, though
not much on account of,, its ſmall thickneſs, which increafes
in afcending from one foot to twelve, and forms a diviſory wall
about fixty feet high, between the hole in the middle, and the
lateral one. Though the ſubterraneous rotundo is not furnished
with confiderable ſtalactites, yet it deferves to be feen, deſcribed,
and drawn, for its largeneſs, and ruftick regularity, which ren-
der, it fingulir, Nor ought this kind of cryptography, to be
reckoned uſeleſs, or even of little moment. It has fuggeſted
grand
A
ར
'In the acts of Coppenhagen of Bartolinus, there is a deſcription of à fimifar
câverà in Iceland. A&t. Harp. T. 3. Trukillus Arngrimus defcr,
[ 439 ]
grand ideas to the boldeft'architects, and beſides ténding great-
ły towards the progreſs of mineralogy, it often proves inſtruc-
tive in hydrography, and affords the most ancient and incontraf-
tible documents of the hiftory of our globe.
7
.
!
From the many clefts, which run perpendicularly, and ſome-
times obliquely into the mountain, and from the veftiges of
corrofion diſcernible in the walls all around, it may eafily be de-
duced that water has been the architect of this work, operating
in feceret for many ages upon the hard marble. I dare not,
however, pofitively fay that the rain water began fo` great an
undertaking, nor would! venture to affert that the fubterrane-
ous running waters had effected it; becauſe many falient ine-
qualities in the rock, near the plain, and confequently ſubject
to an accurate examination, are pierced and corroded precifely
in the fame manner as the fea water ufes to corrode and pierce
the rocks of the ſame ſubſtance. And here it is alſo proper tó
remark, that the points of the rocks which remain bare on the
fuperficies of the hill about thoſe caverns are interſected by holes,
windings, and cavities in the fame manner; and although thefe
are full of earth, and half covered with grafs, they appear plaïn
enough to an eye accuſtomed to diftinguish the work of the
waves. Who knows what dreadful charybdis fwallowed up,
and regurgitated the fea waters from thofe concave rocks, in
what remote ages, more ancient than hiftory, or fable, or per
haps than the boldeſt conjecture of man? And as a confirma-
tion that the waves of the fea, in former times, filled this fubề
terraneous gulf, there appears introduced between the divifions
of the convergent ftrata, a fecondary ftratum of minute breccia,
of very unequal thickneſs, which, by the nature of its compo-
fition, manifeftly declares itſelf adventitious, and of pofterior
#7
}
r
7 1 >*
,
{
* 1 1
2
formation
[ 44 ]]
formation to the past of the mountain perhaps many thousands
of agas. This breccia is fimilar to a fine fpecies of marble in
the iſland of Veglia called Mandolato by the artifts. It is for the
moſt part compoſed of white pieces, mixed with ſome of a pale
red, united together by a ſtalactitic cement of a flesh colour. In
this third cavern or fubterranean' rotundo of Ghermofall >thère
are foffil bones to be feen by the clear light of the day, as they
were in the first by candle light; or to ſpeak more properly,
there is a large mafs of that fubftance in which the foffil bones
of thoſe parts are conftantly inclofed. It is fituated oppofite to
the entrance of the cavern, about forty feet above the bottom of
it, and about twenty below the fuperficies of the hill, and the
edge of the grand aperture through which the light deſcends.
70
20% t
Cot
ป
1 {
Of Fofil Bones.
1
*
10
>
Foffil bones, which are fo frequently found in Dalmatia, and
were the principal object of our voyage, were firft taken notice
of, as far as I know, by the celebrated Vitaliano Donati of Pa-
dua, in his Saggio fopra la storia naturale dell' Adriatico. He
had obferved them in feveral places on that coaft, where the
defire of acquiring new informations and knowledge carried him
ſeveral times; but the want of means, which proved a conſtant
obſtacle in other enterpriſes, fuitable to his great learning,
"and
declared genius kept him behind in the examination of this par-
ticular likewiſe.* It had been rumoured, that the quantity of
**** thofe
✔
d blake yoqad
as ng ubbuvo tik
Though Vitaliano Donati undoubtedly merits a very honourable place among
the Italian naturalifts of this age, yet no one has hitherto wrote his elegy, or
collected his memoirs. He died a victim to his genius for natural hiſtory; and
all the lovers of that fcience will confequently fee with pleaſure, that he is ftill
remembered,
$
W
**
2
[441]
L 441
thofe (bones was fo immenfe that the whole sifland of Ofero
This report naturally made
to a great
was altogether compofed of them.
LAN
1
membered. Donati was born in Padus, the 8th of September 1717. His family
is of the citizens of anciens origin. Father Kio, the Jefuit, was his master in
the grammatical ftudies; profeffor Graziani in philofophy; Lavagnoli fenior in
medicine; and the celebrated Morgagni in anatomy. He fewed, from his child-
hood, the greateſt inclination for botany and natural hiftory; "and, "at the age
of twelve years, knew all the medicinal plants, and had made a collection of
natural productions. When fome years older, he profited by the friendſhip of
the celebrated Pontedera, and was generouſly furniſhed with books and informas
tions by the living profeffor Vallifneri junior. His beft mafters were, however, his
own mountain and maritime peregrinations; which he began in Dalmatia in 1743,
and continued them for five years. He was not able to go always alone; and on
-account of his ftraitened circumſtances, which is bad company, he was fometimes
obliged to travel with a rich perfon, which is often worfe. He was at Pala with
the celebrated Count Gian Rinaldo Carli, who, with patriotick zeal, had under-
taken to illuſtrate the Iftrian antiquities, not to leave it to ftrangers, to the
frame of the Italian name; but there he did not obferve much, and made fome
miftakes. He was chofen for adjutant to the marquis Poleni, publick profeffor
of experimental phyfic, and cultivated under fo great a mafter all the parts of
phyfico-mathematicks. With him he made a journey to Rome, and there
became an intimate friend of Leprotti, the papal phyfician, to whom he
afterwards dedicated his Saggio della storia naturale dell' Adriatico, a work of
great merit, which Count Ginanni of Ravenna endeavoured to depreciate, though
with little fuccefs. The effay of our Donati, was published in 1750, and was
afterwards tranflated into French. The fame which the author acquired, in-
duced his Sardinian majeſty to appoint him profeffor of botany and natural kiſ-
tory at Turin. He went there, as may be fuppofed, very willingly; made many
excurfions among the mountains of Savoy, and Genoa, and would have been
happy, could he always have converfed with the mountaineers, who generally
are harmless people. The king, his mafter, fent him out of the way of his ene-
mies, whofe envy and hatred his merit alone had raiſed; he commanded him to
fet out on a voyage to Egypt, and from thence to vifit Syria, Paleſtine, Arablaj
and the Eaft Indies, to make obfervations, and to collect the rarest productions
of nature. In 1759, he was in Alexandria, faw Egypt, as far as the great ca-
=
2
taract
[ 442 J
་
a great impreffion, on the minds of the curious; and befides, it
was known for certain, that quantities were found. not only,on
the coaſts of Iftria, towards the Quarnaro, and in many parts
of Dalmatia, but alſo on ſeveral iſlands without the Adriatick
all which ferved more and more to embarrass the most fenfible.
heads, and to produce much nonſenſe from thoſe who know
little, and think they know a great deal. We went with an
intention to fee with our own eyes thefe wonders in the iſland
of Cherfo and Ofero, where we had been told there was no dif
ference between houſes, mountains and burying, places, but in
hardneſs and in years.
االد
1
>
i
น
รุ
1524
ร $
OLE
9X07
We did not find, as we had been given to hope, any ftrata
of bones fo extenfive, as could afford ground to imagine that the:
organization of the whole island was compofed of them joyet!
nevertheleſs the quantity, which we met with, is fufficient to
raiſe wonder and ferious reflection, The frequent heaps that:
are ſeen, the ſameneſs of the fubftance, the variety of the
tions, and the identical materials of the
2
poli-
a so to sabit
congeries, might give:
room
70 70
vy and guwah
~
1
taract of the Nile, and a great part of Paleſtine, Arabia, and Chaldea; and,
in all thofe travels, was expofed to fuffer the cruel confequences of a bad choice
which he had made of his companions. While he ftaid at Baffora, waiting for
orders from court, he fell ill of a putrid fever, and died in a few days. M.
Granger, who was fent by the court of Erance, to travel in Egypt and the king-
doms round it, for natural hiftory, had alſo the fame fate in 1734, two days jour
ney from Baffora. The news of his death came to Turin about the end of Oc-·
tober 1763. He left in manufcript two volumes in folio, which his friends,,
and all the learned with to fee publifhed. A.differtation of his de Antipate was
inferted in the Giornale d'Italia: but it feems to require to be retouched on the
original.
}
}
3
I owe all theſe memoirs to Doctor Genuari of Padua, an intimate friend of
belles.
Donati, and well known in the literary world, t
P.+43.
2
វ
Coons
ހރ ހ
J.Lodge Soulp.
[ 443 ]
room to conjecture, at firſt fight, that one immenſe fratúni hað
been compofed in remote ages; but who can pretend to imagine
how kemote? There are various fpecies of terreftrial animals,
fométimés comminated and confufed, and fometimes perfectly
well difpofed and diftinguishable. The places moft known,
where they are found, are along the coaft, in the vertical and
horizontal chafms, or in the divifions of the marble ftrata which
form the baſe, and the hills of the iflands. The fishermen and
feamen, who, in ſmall barks, ufually kept near the fhore, can
point out many of thoſe ſpots; and the ſhepherds are acquainted
with thoſe within land, and in the caverns. Chance might dif-
cover new collections to obfervers, as it did to us, if the lovers
of natural wonders came more frequently on that coaſt.
Every heap of bones, whether in the vertical or horizontal
clefts, is, as it were, wrapt up all round in a kind of ſparry ſta-
lactitick ſhell, three or four inches thick, which incrufts the
fides of the fiffure, and follows all the finuofities exactly. Where
the congeries of bones is horizontal, it is always accompanied
by the ſparry cruft, and not only is divided by it from the lower
ftratum, but evidently fhews to have been alfo coated above by the
fame cruſt of reddiſh diaphonous fpar; which proves to every
one, who is a little acquainted with the interior parts of the
earth, the exiſtence of one, or more ftrata of calcareous ftone
formed on thoſe heaps of bones, but now deftroyed by time.
Were we not to fuppofe this, we could not underſtand how ſuch
a remarkable fparry cryſtallization came to be formed.
}
> The fubſtance of the bones is ordinarily calcined; fometimes
it is found penetrated by pyritical fluors, which are commonly
called denditri. The fiftular bones, as thofe of the arms and
,ཐ
LII 2
legs,
[ 444 ]
n
legs are lined within with a cruft of gemmeous fpar, lucid, and
exceedingly pure, like a cryftallization made by a difficult filtra-
tion throughĩa very compact body. The acetabuli, and ribs, and:
generally all the fpungy bones, preſerve exactly the whiteneſs of
calcination in the fmalleft comina, or partitions of their cavities.
When not very ſmall, they are full of an ochreous stoney matter
of a reddish colour; and when very ſmall, they are entirely coated:
with a ſtalactitic fhining reddish cruft. Of the horny parts of
animals, no veſtige is found. The teeth preferve the natura}}
Brightneſs of their enamel, and are often found placed in their
native jaws and holes. They are frequently, however, found.
feparate, and leave no doubt about the fpecies of animals to which
they belonged. Excepting the teeth and jaws, we could not findi
any other part of the cranium well preſerved, and that was not
equivocal.
t
7
1
འ
**
119 Prod
い
​་
Having examined feveral months before I went to the island
of Cherfo and Ofero with my learned friend Mr. Symonds, and.
profeffor Cirilli, a piece of a congeries of Illyric bones, we found
à human jaw, a vertebra, and a tibia, alfo human, fomewhat:
larger than ufual in. our age; fome fheeps bones, and teeth of
oxen and horſes. The celebrated anatomift, Doctor Leop
Caldani, who does fo much honour to the univerfity of Padua,
afcertained them. The noble Signor J. Morafini, a great
lover and cultivator of botany, and a diligent collector of marine
curiofities and foffils, has many pieces of thefe ofteolithi, and parti
cularly feveral brought from the iſlands Apfyrtes, of one of which
I thought proper to have the figure engraved. In one of them
there is a jaw divided in two by a ſtroke given to its matrice, ſo
that the half of one, and half of the other fide appears.....
A
に​いい
​442
Together
[ 45 ]
+
}
1
Together with thefe bones, are united by the fame cement,
many pinces of various fize, and a great number of (plinters of
white marble, angular, fharp, and of confequence never round-
ed by the waters. It happens alfo fometimes, that in a great
heap of fuch pieces and ſplinters of marble,, none at all, or a
very few pieces of bones are found. The cement, that joins
them together, is however conftantly reddiſh, and of an ochro-
tartarous nature. When expofed to the air, it becomes more
firm, and almost doubly, harder than it was before detached
from its native pofition. No veftige or fragment of marine-
bodies can be diſcovered, either by the naked eye, or by the help
of glaſſes, mixed with the bones; though the ftrata on which
they lie, and thofe above them, are full.
ཝཱུ་
$
I know very well, that in many other parts of Europe, foffil
bones of wild beasts, and perhaps of men, are found. The ce-
lebrated Gefner, in his treatise on the origin of petrifactions,.
fpeaks of an anthropolite, which, however, is not very ancient;
in the Philofophical Tranfactions, mention is made of a human
fkeleton
3
*V. Philofophical Tranfactions for the year 1745 No. 475.art. vi. In the ſhire
of Derby, in aftratum of marle of no very good quality, were found fome deers
horns, and alſo a ſkeleton, thought to be human. When it was expofed to the
air, the bones all fell into powder, and only the teeth could be collected, being
preferved by their varnish. Scheuchzer, in his Alpine travels, fpeaks of foffl
bones obferved by him, and alſo publiſhed a-pamphlet with this title, Homo Di-
duuii teftis, and afterwards had it engraved on copper, and inferted in his Phyfica
faera. The figure which he has repeatedly given of that petrified carcafe, re-
fembles a human ſkeleton fo little, that there is much reaſon to doubt of the
fidelity of that illuftrious naturalift's eyes. Every body knows that Kircher was
apt to fee one thing for another, and was too fond of the marvellous. I faw at
Rome, in the muftum Kerkerianum, the foffil bones of the cave of Palermo
F
t
}
They
are.
[
1
448* *]
1
fkelefon found at Derby; Hoppelitis relates at large the difcovery
of another human fkeleton made at Aix in Provence; both
ގ
16
1621
£4
}
دهد
1
(
1
bas 231
Scheuchzer,
*
are encrufted with ftalactites, and perhaps by the work of art; their form, and
the whiteness of the calcination, are exactly preferved; in fhort they are per-
fectly distinguishable bones. Notwithstanding all this, Father Kircher calls them
offa lapidea, and purum naturæ opus, meaning the natura mineralis. That good
father, who had all the refolution, affiduity, and talents requifite for an obſerver,
had the misfortune to have gone through a courſe of antiquated phyficks; and
hence he explained every phenomenon by the barbarous jargon of the ſchools.
Mercati likewiſe, who muſt have ſtudied under maſters full of prejudices, and
was deprived of the good books of foreign obfervers, which in his time were held
in abhorrence at Rome, has filled his Metallotheca Vaticana with wretched things.
He talks, in that work, of foffil bones as of natural productions of the fubterra-
nean kingdom, grown under ground in the dark, by means of the expansion of the
primitive forms; an explanation that would ſcarcely be fufferable in the mouth of
a ſcholaſtic friar, or a country curate. Hoppelius, though he lived before Mer-
cati's time, did not call in queftion the truth af the human ſkeleton, found near
Aix in Provence, the bones of which became duft when expofed to the air, and
the brains were changed to a kind of cake. In our days the favourers of the
lufus naturæ are reduced to a fmall number, and M. de Voltaire, who chufes to
appear one, for his amuſement, is too reaſonable to be ſeriouſly of fuch an opi-
nion. The antropolite of Gefner, of which we read the ftory in the treatiſe de
petrificatorum originibus, is the work of a few years, and not to be compared to
the foffil bones of Dalmatia. Perhaps thofe of the celebrated grotto of Baumann,
in the Ercinian foreft, are equally ancient; or thoſe in the great cavern of
Schartzfeld of Hertz; or thoſe which the famous, M. Guettard, prince of the
French naturalifts, difcovered in the diftrict of Estampes; thofe obferved by M.
Afcanius,' in the chaſms of the mineral mountain of Taberg, in Sweden, or thoſe
which are found near (onftadt, illuftrated by David Spleifs in his Oedipus Ofteo-
lithologicus. In the Veronefe hills, befides the famous ſkeleton of the deer,
Spada found thoſe of various other animals. In Arragon, near the village of
Coucout, there is a prodigious quantity. In Tuſcany, the carcaffes and bones
of elephants found buried and petrified under the hills, are well known. If
M. Robinet had adverted to all theſe inftances, he probably would not have faid,
that nature was ftudying the project of making man, when the formed ithafe or
ganifed bodies, which in time became petrifactions.
3
។
་
1 :
+
&
1
# 1 97
[ 447 ] ..
f t
"$
Scheuchzer, and Kircher, ſpeak of foffil bones of the fame fpe
cies with ours: but the greateft part of those pretended carcaf-
fes and bones may be fubject to doubts. If even all the foffil
bones mentioned by various authors were really human, our Il-
lyric bones would not be leſs worthy of particular confideration,
as they far exceed all hitherto known by the naturalifts in pre--
fervation, frequency and quality. In our journey over the iſland
of Cherfo and Ofero, which was rather fomewhat hafty, we
could, in feveral places, caufe them to be dug up under our
own eye.
There are two different heaps on the ifolated and
defert rock of Gutim, though we were told only of one of them
on the ſpot, and did not find the other; a mile from Gutim, at
a place called Platt, on the iſland of Cherfo, other heaps are ſeen.-
We found them, as I obferved already, in the caverns of Gher-
moſhall, and at Porto-Cicale,, in the poft of Vallifball, and at Bal-
vanida, on the other fide of the ſtrait, not far from Luffin pic-
ciolo. From thence paffing over to the ſmall island called Cani-
dole picciola, and Stracane, in the language of the country, we
diſcovered two large heaps; afterwards, we went over to the
ſmall iſland of Sanfego, about eight miles diftant from Luffin'
picciolo, and were fhewn, at a diſtance, the place where they
lay, at the foot of a hill of fand, of which the iſland is com-
pofed, and of which I fhall ſpeak more at large. Though the
foil of that ifland is very far from being ochreous or irony, yet,
there alfo, the bones are wrapt in their uſual martial lapideous
earth, and accompanied with ftones and ſplinters of marble.
The fame characters accompany the Illyrick bones over all the'
iflands, and along the coafts of Dalmatia, where the mariners
ufe to fee them frequently, and where they were obſerved by
the above mentioned Vitaliano Donati, in the feveral voyages he
made from 1743 till 1748. Mr. Martin Thomas Brunnich,
*
શ
*
A
3.
profeffor
[´_448 ~}·
1
I
{
+2
profeffor in the university of Copenhagen, in his travels through
Dalmatia, found fome of thofe bones in the fole Coronate, and
was convinced they were human. They fay there is alfo
great deal of them along the torrent Cicala, between Sibenica
and Knin'; near Zara, and at Rogofniza, in the bank called
Rafip, and in Iflela grofa. Nor is there any confiderable diffe-
rence between thofe found in Dalmatia and at Corfu in the Io-
nian ſea, where there are great quantities, at a place called Fuf-
tapidama. Only at Cerigo, where many are dug up, the ap-
pearance is fomewhat altered, the colour being lefs dark, the
ftone in which they are inclofed harder, and the bones them-
ſelves more cruſhed. A French traveller, whofe name I do
not at prefent recollect, writes, that many foffil human bones
are alſo found in the iſland of Cyprus, and I think he mentions
particularly a whole ſkeleton.
\
༈ h
7 4 1
$
રે
This extraordinary abundance of bones, their conftant con-
finement in a lapideous ochreo ſtalactitic earth, the polition of
the various heaps obferved by us, and the fame correfpondency
which we discovered in the caverns of Ghermofball, befides giv-,
ing ground to fufpect that a ftratum had been formed in remote
ages, might alfo raiſe not a very unreaſonable conjecture, that
this ftratum, alternatively compoſed of marble ſplinters and
bones, extended from the northern fhore of the Quarnaro,
to the islands of the Egean fea, and probably fill farther.
This conjecture, though, to fome, it may appear too bold,
will, I apprehend, not be thought fo by thoſe who are uſed to
obferve the courſes of ftrata generally traverfing vaft tracts of
country, and correſponding together from one to the other fore
of the ſea. The coafts of France have that kind of correſpon
dency with thofe of England, which lie oppofite to them; and
+
*
DJ
1
}
from
> }
J
*
८
[ 449 ]
*
from one fide to the other of the Apennines, the ftrata of cal-
careous ftone of marine original, are feen to run around the
large hollows, excavated by the impetuous torrents for many
miles. The not finding an uninterrupted continuation of the
heaps of Illyric bones, does not afford a fufficient ground to deny
the exiſtence of fo wonderful a ftratum. A thouſand examples
of large infulated maffes, commonly found difperfed among the
mountains, of a very different fubftance from thofe that fur-
round them, difcover, and prove at the fame time, the exiſtence
of ancient ftrata deftroyed by the waters, and time; nor do they
leave the leaſt room to doubt of this truth. Befides thoſe who
might think ſuch an argument againſt this conjecture concluſive,
ought to confider, that thofe congeries are found not only of
bones, as has been taken notice of above, but fometimes of
marble ſplinters alone, in fome places, difpofed horizontally,
and in others infinuated into the clefts or chafms, precifely in
the fame manner as the bones. One would not eaſily be in-
duced to believe, that theſe bones, ſplinters, and ftones, have
been fo carefully buried by the hands of men; and that fuch
numerous heaps can be the refult of burials. The not finding
whole fkeletons, * but rather every thing confuſed, broken,
and mixed with reliques of various animals, feems to deſtroy
entirely all probability of fuch a fuppofition. And if even we
were to imagine that all thoſe bones had been interred on pur-
Mm m
pofe
* After we were returned from the iſland of Cherſo and Ofero, our kind hofts
acquainted us, that, after our departure, a whole human carcafe had been difco-
vered in a rock, and invited us to repafs the gulf, to overfee the cutting of it
out. Circumstances .did not permit us to attend to this invitation; and who
knows how fo rare and valuable a monument of the antiquity of our fpecies may
have been treated by thoſe people.
>
محمد
7
[ 450 T
་
?
7
pofe in fuch numerous burying places; how many ages would
have been requifite to render them. fo very frequent, and how
many more to raife from their level the hills and eminences;
under the baſes, or in the hearts of which the bones lie in
heaps? And in what age can we imagine that thoſe countries
were inhabited by a nation, that. pre-exiſted the formation of
the marine hills, and iflands, which in our days are feen in the
Adriatick?
>
}
I am far from venturing to give my opinion about the origin
of ſo ſtrange a phenomenon; and ſhould. indeed be quite at a
lofs how to give it, as every conjecture, that I can think of
is expoſed to unanswerable objections. If I could, like, fome
who have treated ſimilar ſubjects, attributed all the organiſed foffils -
-to a lufus naturæ, by following the facred footsteps of the vene-
rable ignorance of the ſchools, I might diſpatch the explication
of this or any other phenomenon, in a few words, only by fay
ing they were, effects of the flood, Volcano's, or earthquakes.
Notwithstanding the good philofophy, and phyfical obfervations
of this age, there are ſtill fome, who, in treating of a point of
natural hiſtory, either give too much ſcope to a warm, or preju-
diced imagination, or follow implicitly the ftate and unphilo-
fophical doctrines of the thirteenth century; but I am not will-
ing to put myself among their number, in order to fhorten dif
cuffions. I know well, that, by haftily forming, or adopting
Hfyftems, philofophers often wrong their own genius, as well
as the truth, and, on the other hand, am convinced, that the
author of nature is not capricious in his works, and that the
found philofophers of our times laugh at plaftick powers, and
archetypal ideas, or fuch like fcholaftick barbariſms.alth&
4
I think,
[ 41 ]
1
I
EE think, that, in treating of extraordinary phenomena, hard
to be explained, and liable to difficulties on all fides, the beft
method that can be taken by any perſon who is the firſt to
write purpoſely concerning them, is to relate fimply, and to
deforibe, with the moft fcrupulous and exact precifion, every
thing he has feen or obferved on the fubject. Every body is at
Liberty, afterwards, to explain them his own way, either ac-
cording to the fyftems of others, or by fome new hypothefis
formed on purpoſe. For my part, I am perfectly convinced,
*that I have not the neceffary data for a fatisfactory explanation,
and therefore will not hazard a conjecture concerning the ancient
origin of the Illyric foffil bones; but at the fame time am very
ready to attend to any perſon who will undertake to folve my
'doubts. Theſe foffil bones, are, in my opinion, one of the
most important objects about which the learned curiofity of the
naturalifts can be employed; and it were to be wifhed, that
fome of them, led by genius, would give us an account how
far precifely thofe ftrata reach over all Dalmatia, and the iſlands
<of the Levant.
ز
1
}
Of the Nature of the Marble, and Petrifactions.
The foffil bones, encloſed in the lapideous earth before de-
ſcribed, are not the only lithological curiofity of the ifland of
Cherfo and Ofero, and thofe adjacent to it. The nature of the
marble, of which they are almoſt wholly compofed from the top
to the bottom, merits particular attention. They are diffe-
rently organiſed, and the component parts of the various ſtrata
are alfo combined with fome diverfity; and fometimes a ſmall
diffimilitude may be obferved between the parts of the ſame
ftratum, at any confiderable diftance the one from the other:
Mmm 2
but
[ $452 1]
M
}
*
}
دم
but as their direction is always conftant, fo are the principal
èlements conſtantly the fame in each ftratum, notwithstanding
the various diſtances of its parts. The ſtone which occupies.
the higheſt parts of the island, as well near the lake of fefero,
as about Luffin picciolo, is analogous to the common marble of
Iftria, only it contains a greater quantity of marine bodies of
the most diftinguifhable fpecies, and which ufually are better:
preſerved than the others, I mean phacites and elicites of every
variety and fize. The quantity of thefe bodies femipetrified, or
changed into ftalactites, but not become of equal hardneſs with
the matrice in which they are contained, renders that marble, leſs
ftrong, and lefs apt to refift the action of the air, and corroſion,,
than the Iftrian. The ancient fea bottom, hardened by time,
and the operative faculty of the waters uniting the particles moſt¸
apt to concrete in cryſtals, has been abundantly peopled with,
large and small nummali, and fragments of them, many ages be--
fore it was expofed to the open air. Theſe adventitious bodies,
of which the fpecies is juftly fuppofed to be loft, were pro-
bably not fo eaſily compreffible as, other fofter and unconnec-
ted parts of the mud; hence it would follow, that, preferving
fome degree of their diſpoſition towards calcination, they were
fhut up in the petrifaction of large ftrata. Whenever it happens.
that they are expofed to the violent action of any exterior force,
they foon begin to be difcompofed, in fuch a manner, that the
fuperficies of a piece of this ftone, which is almoſt half
compofed of them, fhews manifeftly its difpofition to be dif
united, reduced into powder, and confumed by time. Not-
ki
withſtanding, however, this ſmaller degree of hardneſs which,
the nummali have when inclofed in the ftrata that compofe, the
tops of the mountains of the ifland, they ufe, when entire,, to
refift time and corrofion better than the rest of the ſtone, in, con-
ſequence
+
}
[453 ]
>
*
}.
A
fequence of their fructure, which, between the lamina, left room
fot a fparry cryftallization. Hence the nummali and frumenta-
arie of Cherfo reinain confiderably prominent, and lefs worn than
the ftone in which they lie, though they are evidently not, fo
hand; which is a proof that the greater or leffer folidity and ap--
parent compactnefs of a body, is not a fure rule of proportion
to determine the durability, which rather depends on the fecret
nature and difpofition of the particles whereof it is compofed,
and the fpecies of force actuating towards it deftruction. And
though the caufe does not appear outwardly, the fame thing is
frequently feen in various kinds of foffil matter,,and,,the extra- -
neous body, though ſpecifically lefs, compact, refifts longer than
the marble, or fchiftus in which it is contained. The fall
differences of the combination of the elements, which concurred
to form any portion of a ftratum, and the very minute varieties
of fituation, air, earth, water, and effluvia not reducible, to
calculation, are altogether, or taken feparately, the causes of
the moſt remarkable differences between ftones, which, how-
even have all the fame bafis.. Mineral fubftances when diffolved
tinge the earth, of which the hardeſt marble is: formed, of ya-
rious colours, in proportion to their quality and quantity; and
it happens not unfrequently, that marble ftrata, already har-
dened, through the intervention of water or fire, imbibe, or i
open their pores to let in a colouring matter, or mineral efflu-
vium, which changes their fecondary qualities almoft radically.
Hence, taking the whole lithological kingdom together, it may
freely be afferted, that the waters charged with heterogeneous
particles, and the fubterranean vapours, have almoſt as confide-
rable a part in the alterations of the combination of ſtones, as
the vulcanic fires, which melt, reduce to aſhes, and mix with
an infinite variety, the fubftances variously combined, on which
2
}
1
they
}
[454]
}
い
​3
$
、:
}
je ad to har
2 }
*
*
they act with different degrees of force. The nummalı Thut up
in the real marble, and the calcareous ftone of Ofero and Cherfo,
are of the flatteft kind, and of various fizes. Many of them
have above three inches in diameter, and two or three lines of
thickneſs, and are horizontally placed; fome others, of a fize
not much different, are in a vertical pofition; and others are
alfo found in a poſture fomewhat inclined. From the bignefs
of above three inches diameter, they diminish by degrees to the
finalleſt frumentaria or phacites; and to fee this, the obſerver
has no need to multiply his examinations of different piece
of ſtone, as very often all the varieties are contained in one piece
alone. The piece repreſented in Fig. 11. will ferve as an ex-
ample.
7
}
{
}
I 4
pieces
#
ג
མ་
CU
Vidoersbur
The other fort of marble which is feen naked on the thores,
26. 169) for
and conſtitutes the bafe of all thoſe iſlands, having conftantly
above it another ſtratum of about three feet deep, of precifely
the fame ſubſtance, is well worthy of attentive and diligent ob-
fervation. Both theſe ſtrata are of a dirty whitish colour, fpot-
ted and beſpangled with very white cryftallizations, which fome-
times are lodged between the fiffures of the earth petrified by
them, running through the fiffures in very minute diramations.
fometimes they have occupied the place of marine bodies cal-
cined, and perhaps in part deftroyed before the induration of
their actual matrice. Among thefe, fome turbinati are diftin-
guiſhed, which appear to be of the hardeft fpar, and a great
number of whitiſh fiftular bodies of the fame fubftance, which,
at firſt fight, might be taken, and which I actually miftook for
bones. The ftratum waſhed by the fea on the coafts of Iſtria
and Liburnia, is compofed of the above mentioned materials,
and it is evident enough, that the baſe of the island of Cherfo
3 1
and
[1.455 ]
}
and Ofero, and of the adjacent islands, is only a continuation of
the fame, and formed at the fame time by a very ancient fea,
and in leſs remote ages, though always very far from ours, in-
terrupted by a new fea, And certainly the Adriatick of our days,
ought to be called a new fea, very different from the ancient
ocean, which formed the whole of that tract of country, which
the Adriatick, and the rivers, by little and little, go on corrod-
ing, if the fpoils of animals, ftill preferved in the bowels of
thoſe vaft petrified ftrata, are of totally different fpecies from
thoſe that now inhabit our feas.. I know not what the bithop
Brouallius, profeffor Bring, and the other antagoniſts to the di-
minution of the waters, and their change of feats, could anfwer
to theſe manifeft facts. They were certainly in the wrong to
call in religion to the affiftance of their favourite hypothefis,
endeavouring to oppofe and overthrow the obfervations of the:
moft learned natúralifts, by arbitrary interpretations of facred
texts. Religion never is a gainer on fuch occafions; witnefs the
abjuration of Galileo, which does ſo much diſhonour to Italy.
A
•
{
The marine air, and perhaps the fea water, which has 'always-
fomething of acid in it, make a very curious operation on the
fuperficies of the fpecies of marble expoſed to their activity.
It would have been thought extravagant enough if any body had
pretended to defire, or hope, that the moſt diligent ſtone-cutter
in the world, by means of a chiffel, or the moſt profound chemiſt,
by means of fome menftruum, fhould fhew us the courſe, and
dinamations of the veffels in ftones; many lithologiſts by pro-
feffion would never even have ſuſpected their exiſtence.
however the pleafare of feeing this executed in the moſt maſterly'
manner along the ſhores of thoſe iſlands, and ſometimes on the
lower parts of the hills. The points of the fecond ſtratum, that
<
?
I had.
are
I
[ 456 ]
t
are not fullied and disfigured by the falt waters, coriacious or to-
ny lichens, mufcus, balani, or labours of marine infects, but cor-
roded only by the air, and the afperfion of the waves, fhew the
internal texture of the marble, and the most intricate paffages of
the ſmalleſt canals, in which the fparry fubftance is depofited
and cryſtallized, opening the way between the divifions, and be-
tween the ſmalleſt lumps of the particles of clay not fufficiently
hardened, which it proceeded to petrify, when affifted by the
waters that ferved as its vehicle. The action of the moist and
falt air, and the drizzling of the fea water concurring in the de-
compofition of thoſe marble ftrata, ordinarily finds the pure cal-
careous cryſtallized fubftance lefs eafily diffolvable, becauſe its
parts not being amalgamated with the clay, are more in a con-
dition to refift, as being more continued, compact, and adhe
rent; and hence, corroding all round it, leaves prominent every
one of the ſmall canals above mentioned, together with all their
capillary ramifications. Though this exact anatomical fyftem.
cannot be obferved in every fpecies of marble, and perhaps in
fome kinds the obfervations may feem at first fight directly oppo-
fite, yet I think we may reaſonably conclude, from the refult of
the combinations concurring in the formation, and diffolution of
the marble of Cherfo, that all, or the greateſt part of the ftones,
which owe their origin to the water, were rendered folid, and
continued by the fame operation of nature; from whence, per-
haps, ariſes a new chain of coherence and analogy between the
mineral kingdom and the other two. The examination of a va-
riety of agates and jafpers containing curious fpots, fhades, and-
herborizations, if made under the eye of a skilful lithologiſt,
might contribute much to confirm the fimilarity and connection
juft mentioned,
3
my
Befides.com
P. 456.
"
(
1
T
A
3
J
G
}
•
1
2
J. Lodge culo.
[ 457 ] .
Belides the petrifactions contained in the hard marble, and
not difcernible any other way but by the corrofion of the fuper-
ficies, I found, in the fmall port of San Martino, near Loffin,
fome large fpecies of tophaceous ftone almoft entirely compofed
of hummali of all fizes, from the largeſt to the fmalleft, but all
of one fpecies, which has the fpiral and the divifions of the cells
prominent on the outfide. This fpecies, which is very common
in the hills of Cormons in Friuli, and in fome parts of the Vicen-
tine territory, has not been drawn by any body, as far as I know.
I cannot, however, affirm that it belongs naturally to the iſland
of Cherfo and Ofero, having only feen on the fhore of San Mar-
tino fome detached pieces, which could not give ſufficient ground
to fuppofe that there was a ftratum of the fame fubftance in the
neighbourhood. The nummali are quite different from thoſe a-
bove defcribed; and it appears rather probable, that theſe ftones
have been brought there as ballaſt, either from fome place far
off, or perhaps from fome iſland in the neighbourhood. And
this conjecture feems fo much the more reaſonable, as there is a
great quantity of nummulari in the iſland of Veglia, near the
caffle of Dobrigno. And here I think proper to take notice,
that none of the fpecies of nummali which I have feen, either a-
ngour hills, or on the other fide of the gulf, reſemble
the figure given by the celebrated Linnæus in his Amænit. Acca-
demică, vol. iv. I may even venture to fay, that this celebrated na-
turäſiſt was miſtaken in believing he had found the marine ori-
ginal of theſe adventitious productions of the foffil kingdom.
“The ftrata of marble breccia, of which I took notice, in ſpeaking
of the grotto of Ghermoſhall, are neither large nor regular, and
therefore do not deferve to be treated of again.
mong
Of ſtones, or hard fluors, fuch as quartz, cryſtals, agates,
flints, chalcedonies, or jafpers, nor of mines, there is no veftige
found
Nnn
(( 1458 )
[
found in that part of the island which we examined. Perhaps
fome ſpecies of thofe ftones might be found in the northern part
of the island, which our time did not permit us to vifit; but
it is more likely that there are none.
1
1
}
1
་
Of the Course of the Strata.
1 }
?
1
¥ #
}
'
31 One of the principal reaſons for my being of this opinion,
though not confirmed by obſervations made ſtep by ſtep, is, that
the ftrata correfpond exactly, as well in regard to the pofition
as the fubftance, from the mouth of the river Arfia to the far-
theft point of Ofero. The marble which furrounds the port of
Dubaz, fituated in the woody peninſula adjacent to the mouth
of the Arfia, and which is the ancient confine of Italy on that
coaft, has no character that diſtinguiſhes it from the marble that
forms the bafe of the ſmall iflands and rocks adjacent to Cherfo
and Ofero. It is true, that the continuity of the Atratum might,
by fome particular accident, have been interrupted, and the fimi-
Jarity of the divided parts ſtill ſubſiſt; but a'revolution of that kind
would have produced confequences of which the vestiges would
have remained visible enough in the fouthern parts of Cherfs and
Ofero, which we vifited, and where no figns of fubverſion or ru-
in are feen. The ftrata, of which the mountains and ſmaller
hills of that tract of country are formed, are generally very re-
very.fe-
gular, and without any confiderable interruptions. There are
many of thefe however, in fome places, manifeftly produced by
the waters, which alſo gave origin to the gulfs, and their nu-
nous adjacencies.
Sud va birnct
A
L
AI
کو
}
}
The attentive confideration of the internal structure of the
ifland has confirmed me ſtill more in the opinion which I had be-
fore, through the frequent ufe of obferving the mountains „and
hills of the continent, concerning the falient and re-entrant an-
gles
N
IQ M
it
[ 459 ]
gles of Bourquet. A celebrated naturaliſt has brought them în
in
vogue on the faith of their author; and many more of lèffer
fame adopted them as a demonftrated truth. I however con-
ſtantly believe, and dare affert, that this fyftem of falient and
re-entrant angles cannot be adopted univerfally to the mountains,
and much leis to the fea fhore. It is very true, that the corref
pondence of the angles is feen very well expreffed in the fides of
fome vallies; but there are few vallies among the mountains that
do not owe their excavation to the waters of rivers, or torrents,
the conftant nature of which is to form an angle, or a falient
curvature oppofite to every new corrofion. But where the wa-
ters have not been able to work in their ufual way, and where
the vallies were formed by little hills, or vulcanic hills produced
in various times, and with little order, there no mark of the pre-
tended univerſal correfpondence is ſeen. To fet ſtill in a clearer
light the error of this hypothefis given out as a conſtant obſerva-
tion, it is proper to repeat, that the horizontal, or inclined ftra-
tay which are the moft common, and nearest to their ancient
natural ſtate, correfpond together from one chain of hills to an-
other though they may be divided by very broad vallies, which
manifeftly demonftrates an ancient continuity, as well as the
diffolution of the large portion of mountain that existed before
thoſe great hollows.
{
}
And hence it may eafily be perceived, how little proba-
bility there is, that the hills, in their firſt foundation, have been
formed by the great Architect at correfponding angles, leav-
ing, as it were, the dentelli of the ftrata fufpended round the
vallies; for according to all appearance it may be reaſonably
concluded, after the moft diligent obfervations, that no vef-
tige, of clear proof remains, in our days, of primitive hills,
or that may with 'propriety be called fo. Thoſe which we
Nnn 2
કફ કે
J
1
know,
[[60]]
know jodre manifeftly produced, either by volcano's which have
svburntsin lalmoſft every region of our Globe; or by the dẹa,
cwhich sin paftages covered it altogether, or alternatively or
by the fea and volcano's at the fame time. And it appears not:
improbable, that the most ancient protuberances of our globe
were much more vaft and regular, though quite different from.
the ſtructure of thofe we now ſee.
bords d
{{
+
1
2
2
$
1
1769
(Is Concerning the other ideas of Bourguet, who after having
eſtabliſhed obſervations by no means exact, imagined by way
of scorollaries the paſt ſtate of the earth, and found the pre-
cife time of the deluge, (as if there had been but one) and
wthen pretended to forfee the fubfequent alterations and tranf-
formations that are to happen in it, I think it needless to take
any further notice. Syftems, and theories refemble hitherto,
and are like to reſemble in time coming, (till a fufficient num-
ober of good obfervations are made) unripe fruit, which ſpoils.
in a fhort time. That of Bourguet feems to have found more
partifans then it deferved, and feveral of them have gained
themſelves nos honour by adopting it. It was fufficient, in-
deed, to stay in their chambers, and to theorife at their cafe:
on good geographical maps, concerning the truth of the pro-
༢ ;
จ
*
}
>
D
J
poſition
}
31
1 f
I OL
In the celebrated mountain of Botea fituated in the Veronefe territory,.
the co-exiſtence of the fea and of ancient volcanos is manifeftly feen. In our
times, that is in the begining of this century, the ifland of rock of Santerini
was failed out of the bottom of the fea by a volcano. In the valley of Ronca,
between Vicenza and Verona, the fides of the hill fhew the ſtrata alternately^
formed of the fpoils of the fea, and of vulcanic eructations; and the petri
fed fhells, that are found there, are often tinged with black and drenched
in bitumen, and the largeſt oftracites lie involved in the lava, and are full of it..
*
•
r
*
ALONE W 7350
1
ON
[[46]
شمه
V
svpdfiffioal ve hatɔithe fides of the large vallies, as well as thofe of the
·Fhores of the Sea, correspond with one another and I who have
taken the trouble to examine many of them, am perfuaded,
sothat neither the fides of the fea fhones, nor those of the large valkies,
conſtantly correfpond with one another.
muil utebo
$
S
>
}
The ſtata of the islands of Cherfo and Ofero are very regu-
larly formed. They pafs from one hill to another with a kind
gof undulation, which probably has been, nay doubtlefs has been,
the work of a vaſt Ocean. The inland is too old, and has
-undergone too great a number of changes, as well as the reſt
cof the globe, for us to form any certain judgment concern-
ing its fuperficies. It is certain, however, that no veftige now
remains of the ancient fuperficies, as even the order of the
«Corganization is altered in the inland parts, as well as on the
feal coaft. The rain waters, the fubterraneous cavities, the
abforptions, and fometimes more fubitaneous agents, have made
Sigfeat ruins. The waves wash away and deftroy fome of the
littoral hills; and hence the obſervation of the ftrata that re-
inain expofed to the eye on the exterior part of the ifland,
Sare enough to embarraſs any hafty fabricator of fyftems. Some
- of them are inclined towards the fea, and, from root to foot
of the hills, defcribe arches bending outwards: but this di-
rection is not conftant. Here and there, contiguous to the
arches bending outwards, other arches are ſeen, which bend,
in a contrary fenfe, inwards, manifeftly oppofing themſelves
to the waves with a kind of pride. The explanation of this
v fact is, however, not difficult, though it might feem contra-
dictory. The littoral hills in thoſe parts, particularly thoſe of
Ofero, are formed of marble ftrata, the one difpofed above the
other in fuch a manner, as reſembles, in large, the structure
W
J
حدة
NL
?
>
of
[ 4650
(
wollut
of the Bezoar ftone, but they are not fo difpofed in a right
ta
1
27
363(20
? l
line, that the fea waters can do equal damage to each in
in dif-
compofing the roots, and confequently in diftroying the fides
and tops. Hence
Hence the ftrata of thoſe hills that were more ex-
pofed to the force of the waves, muſt have been more eaſily,
and in a ſhorter ſpace of time, corroded, difconnected, and over-
turned beyond their common centre, which is the perpendi
cular let fall from the top of the hill where the inclination
towards the fea ends, and the declivity towards the internal
part of the ifland begins. In the courfe of ages, thefe hills, the
roots and interior parts whereof, were inclined towards the de-
ftroying fea, are reduced to less than the half, and therefore
now appear outwardly inclined towards the land. And thofe
hills that in our days are thus half worn away, will, in the
courfe of years, be quite deftroyed; their roots will become
quick fand's
; and the fea continuing its incroachments, and
daily gaining on the dry land
17
Zbet
1
}
J{
鬼
​}
છે
1
To bwa
2077 1200
will once more by degrees
1
J
GI
fwallow
A
P
1
ི
}
དྷཨར
<~
CC
20
1
摹
​The learned author of the Recherches Philofophiques für les Americains, in
Tom. 2. p. 337. finds fault with Manfredi, becauſe he afferted, that the wa-
ters of rhe Adriatick fea are rifen to a level much higher than the ancient,
through the augmentation of the quantity of water, but through the e-
levation of the bottom by mud, and other caufes. He has perhaps fome
reafon to call the rife of the waters a fophifm, when it is only a confequence
the rife of the earth in the bottom; and, in fact, if the maſs of water'
continues equal, we cannot properly fay, that the water rifes, but rather
that the fuperficies covered by the water grows higher. But it cannot `bě“
denied, that he is evidently in the wrong when he affirms “that, in Italy,
theuland places are abandoned by the fea like the part of Ravenna, and that,
dguol!
perhaps, not one place could be named where the Mediterranean had over-
flowed or furmounted the thore, which muſt infallibly have happened if Man-
3, ༩
fredi had reafoned well." The learned anonymous author thinks it den
-bug 90 Falgrab bas
monftrated, that the earth carried to the fea by rivers merits little or na
-1970 90 W 210. letebnow zi" made Golly cra, e bos confideration'?
* 2790130 f
..
1
Down
*
@r
>
A
A
** Hrisye 2SESC
}
[463] =
fwallow up that tract of country, which, perhaps, it has by
degrees abandoned and reinundated already, who knows how
ť
?
1
201
T $
"
often
confideration; and feems to have been fo much prepoffeffed by this opinion,
that he could not read the differtation of the celebrated Bolognefe mathe-
matician "de aufta maris àltitudiné, with due attention. Manfredi' agrees that
the maſs of water rather diminiſhes for more then one reafon, but aflerts,
notwithstanding, that the level rifes, because the diminution is not in proportion
to the augmentation of the bottom by the importation of mud, calculated by
him, with great timidity, at five Bolognefe inches in every period of 348 years.
1
It is certain, that if facts not depending on local caufes are good proofs, the
propofition of the French author is by no means true. Though the fea daily retires,
further from Ravenna, allowing a vifible prolongation of the land produced by the
mud of the Po, and fome other leffer rivers, it certainly does not retire fur-
ther from Venice, where, fince its foundation to our times, there has been often
a neceffity of lofing the uſe of places under ground, and on a level with the grounds!
to rebuild the cifterns higher, to rife the pavement of the streets, and fquares &
on which occaſions we find, in digging, that our forefathers, were obliged to make
the fame reparations. It is manifeft, that all the country lying between the Lagu-
nes, and the Paduan, Vicentine, Trevifan, and Friulan bills, has been, in
former times, covered by the fea, and we remember, to this purpoſe, the fact
related by le Clerc, in one of the volumes of his Bibliotheque, that in 1720
an anchor was found many feet under ground in the fea mud in digging
the foundations of a building at Padua; and a further proof may be de-
duced from the marine honey bottom which ferves for bafe to the volcanic
Euganean hills, and is difcovered in deep excavations.
'
A
า
It is my opinion, that, in remote times, the fea not only washed the roots
of the above mentioned hills, but even that it extended far beyound them
into the Continent: and I am alfo fully convinced, that, for many ages paft,
it has not loft ground in thefe parts. The causeways that maintained the
communication, between the Cities of ancient Venice, towards Torcello, Altino,
Jeſolo and Eraclea, are now buried in fome places, and ſubmerged in others
our dykes, fortified at a vaft expence by beams and ftones, are at prefent
not fufficient to defend us against the fea, which too often breaks through
them Some years ago the Government has determined to raife mounds of
marble fuperiour to the Roman works now remaining, and defigned to vie
with the Caucafean wall: the fea beats againſt theſe, and disjoins the enor
mous males; and a time will come when this wonderful work will be over-
n
"
1
t
flowed.
[ 464 I
}
often. This kind of prophecy, is not founded on ideal chi-
meras, but on vifible facts, which correfpond together, and
reciprocally
flowed. In like manner, fome iſlands, and large pieces of the continent, a-
bout Grado, have, within theſe few ages, been covered by the fea, which
every day advances and threatens freſh miſchief; thus alfo the fea gained ground
near Malamous, and covered a large tract of inhabited land, the ruins of
which may
ftill be ſeen under water in a calm: thus alſo the ancient City
of Conca, oppofite to Rimini, is covered by the waves, and more than a
mile from land; and thus alfo the fuburbs of Pola in Iftria are fubmerged,
and along the ſhore, at low water the mofaic pavements are diſcovered, as well as
at Sipar not far from Porano, ſeveral palms under water. If the ingenious
illuſtrator of the things of America were to make a voyage of obſervation along
the coafts of the Adriatick, he would fee, that there is no prolongation of land
in this part of the Mediterranean, that does not proceed from importations, or
other local caufes; and, where thefe do not operate, the land lofes. As the
obſervations made on the Baltick by the learned Hierna, Suedenbergius, Kalm,
Celfius, Dalin, Linnæus and Wallerius, lofe nothing of their truth when com-
pared with thoſe which others have made on the Adriatick, fo theſe are not
the lefs true for being diametrically oppofite to thoſe of the North, Who-
ever, depending on partial obfervations, and led by the fpirit of fyftem, draws
general conclufions concerning the receffion of the fea from the land, certainly
reaſons ill; but it is much worſe to ſet phyfical truths at variance with Re-
ligion needleffly, and to treat the affertors of an opinion, whether well or ill
founded, as hereticks. The Biſhop of Abo and Menander have given a ſcan-
dalous example of this, in mixing bad phyficks with the revealed truths. The
fury of thoſe two men, which they found means to communicate to the body
of the Swediſh Clergy, went fo far as to accuſe the celebrated Dalin and Lin-
weus, together with the moft illuftrious obſervers in the Kingdom, of hereſy
before the Diet in 1747, nor was the unfavourable reception they met with
fufficient to appease them.
Perhaps the truth is, that the fea fometimes lofes, and fomtimes gains,
not only in different fituations, but alſo in the fame in the courſe of years
and ages. The daily and occafional caufes of thofe changes are fometimes
plainly feen, but oftener remain involved in darkneſs as well as other per-
mament cauſes of the revolutions, and their unknown periods.
[r 465 1
reciprocally enforce one another, from one end of the earth
to the other.
;
Of the Small Islands adjacent to CHERSO and OSERO.
3:2 3A
The fmall island, or rock of Gutim, which lies a mile to
the eastward of the coaft of Cherfo, near the hamlet of Belley,
would not be worth mentioning on account of its extent, which
is not half a mile in length, nor for its products, becauſe it
is quite deſert and uncultivated. The fea beats againft it "
furiouſly on the north eaſt fide, and though it is defended by
the roughness of the marble, yet even that is corroded apace,
and the ruins of it are feen under the water. The concavi-
ties made by the waves are full of lichens, and ftoney maffes,
which are of a fine pale red colour; and among them are
great quantities of Echini marini, and generally one ſpecies only
of Bucini, and two of Patella. There was, in former times,
as the inhabitants of Cherfo fay, a monaftery of nuns on this
iftand, which is altogethe plain, and might be made very ufe-
ful. On one point of it, there are ftill fome ruinous walls, but
Instead of nuns, it is now inhabited
by a great number of rabbits, which find good paſture; the in-
ner part of the iſland producing plenty of grafs. The particu-
larity that diftinguiſhes Gutim, and makes it of importance in
the eyes of a naturalift, is the foffil bones found there, in two
places above ground. One of theſe is near the fea; and the
other, which we could not find, tho' well known to the fiſher-
men and thepherds, is in the heart of the iſland.
Y
I did not go near them.
Aug 20
*******
*
}
{
-}
1
悱
​On the other fide that is to the west of Cherfo, and three
miles from S. Martino, lies the iſland Levrera, peopled like-
$22 {
इ
wife
ܨܐ
♡
[ 466 ]
wife by rabbits only; it is plain, and about two miles long.
The inhabitants of Cherfo ufe to go there a hunting.
Nia, Onie, or Unie, is an ifland about feven miles in length,
the ground of which belongs to the bishop of Ofero. It lies. to
the west of Ofero, has few inhabitants, and thoſe exceffively
poor. I do not find it named by ancient geographers; in the
low ages it is called Nia. Its principal product is fire wood,
great part of it being woody. It might produce honey and wax
in abundance, and cattle likewife; but it yields little of any
thing, for thoſe reaſons which are well underſtood in our days,
eſpecially by thoſe who apply themſelves to the ſtudy of publick
economy. The fiſhing round about Onie is a confiderable pro-
duct; it confifts chiefly in tunny, mackrel, and Sardelle; but
the poor inhabitants have not the means of profiting by it,
and ftrangers come and reap all the advantage under their eyes.
We did not land on this ifland.
San Pier de' Nembi, belongs as well as Onie, to the bishop-
rick. Many rocks are collectively called by this name: but the
chief islands are only two, and between them lies a large and
commodious harbour. The inhabitants have their houſes alk
near one another, and form a poor village. There is alſo a con-
vent of friars, which probably does not contribute to enrich
them. There was, in former times, for the defence of the har-
bour, a kind of fort, of which fome ruined parts remain, and a
governor fuited to the importance of the place.
In the ancient records, and inſcriptions of the 14th century,
theſe iſlands are called Nieme. A fea chart in my poffeffion,
which feems to have been made about the year 1340, gives
them
[ 467 ]
them that name. The actual products of the iſland amount to
very little value; though they might be made much more con-
fiderable. The rocks of San Pier de' Nembi, none of which are
above two miles long, occupy about five miles of ſea from north
to fouth.
Two ſmall islands fituated to the weſt of Ofero, which are about
ſeven miles round, go by the name of Canidole. The Sclavonian
inhabitants of Cherfo call them great Stracane and little Stracane.
They are divided by a narrow channel of the fea. The people
of Loffin cultivate a part of them, the foil being very manage-
able, and without any ftones. It looks like the depofitions of
rivers of a long courſe, by which I mean a mixture of mud and
very minute fand: the waters of the ſea have certainly not tri-
turated nor heaped it up in fuch a manner. This fpecies of
light ground is raiſed above the level of the ſea, about twenty-
five feet in the higheſt parts, and lies on a baſe of marble, ana-
logous to the deſcription which I have given of the lower ftrata
of theſe parts in the laſt ſection. We ſtopt on one of theſe
iflands to dig up the greateſt part of the foffil bones with which
we returned loaded, and which now are diſtributed among the
beſt muſai in England.
Sanfego is a ſmall iſland ſeven or eight miles to the weſtward
of Loffin picciolo, fifteen from Ofero, thirty five from Cherfo, and
little more from the mouth of the Arfia, to which it lies oppo-
fite. In paft ages, there was a monaſtery on this iſland, founded
by Pietro, bishop of Ofero, about 1070, and fome of the ruins
ftill remain. It is much frequented by fishing boats, as being
one of the principal places of paffage of the Sardines. The
bifhoprick of Ofero is alſo proprietary of the lands of this iſland,
0002
The
[ 468 ]
The inhabitants are about three hundred, poor and miferable
beyond defcription. They dwell in wretched cottages on the
higheſt part of the island: we entered one of them to fee an
ancient infcription, which the prieſt of the parish could not
read, as thofe poor people told us. The cottage was fo dark at
mid-day, that we were obliged to read the infeription by candle
light. There is only one aperture in thoſe cottages, which
ferves for door, window, and outlet for the finoke; there are
no divifion in the infide; not even a floor, excepting what the
ordinary ground furnishes, and it is lower than the outfide.
From without, thofe miferable habitations do not feem intended
for animals of our fpecies; and indeed they look more like the
holes of wild beaſts than cottages. The foil of Sanfego is not
unfruitful, though it is as fandy as that of Stracane. It is how-
ever little cultivated, becauſe the inhabitants are few, poor, and
oppreffed. They fow fome corn, and cultivate the vine; but
the nature of the ground does not agree very well with the
olive. The baſe of the iſland of Sanfego, is the uſual whitiſh
marble of thoſe parts; foffil bones are alſo found there inclofed
in their ordinary matrice, and accompanied exactly with the
fame circumſtances as in other places. A hill of fand, about ſix
miles in circuit, is raiſed on that ftratum, which feems to have
very little curvature, and forms the island. The fides of this.
hill are torn away by the rain waters, and precipitate on all fides.
into the fea, becauſe they are not ſuſtained by trees, which are
but rare on the island. Thoſe rents are alfo very deep, and ru-
înous, becauſe the ground contains no kind of ftones, but is
compoſed of very minute fand, and of ſtill more minute and im-
palpable fluviatile mud. In fome places, where the rain waters
do not tear the furface, they are often undermined below, and
produce in time deep gulfs. This iſland, of which I do not
3
$
find
[ 469 ]
find any particular name determined among the ancient authors,
was, however, in ancient times, inhabited by people of fome
confequence, and perhaps was the villa of fome rich Romen,
fettled in the colonies on the continent, or in the neighbouring
iflands. Some tables of greek marble, and pieces of fculpture
not contemptible, are ſtill to be ſeen there. The infcription
mentioned above, and which will be inferted a little farther on,
belongs to no ignoble family; nor is there the leaſt ground to
imagine that it has been tranſported thither from another place.
The poor peaſant, who built the houſe in which it is found,
discovered it in digging the ground he was preparing for his
wretched habitation, and did not even take the trouble to un-
cover the whole of it.
The fituation of this iſland, and of the two Stracane, the dif
tinct appearance of the various fucceffive depofitions diſpoſed in
ftrata, and its fimilarity to other neighbouring iſlands, ſeem to
me to merit the reflection of an obſerver in inveſtigating the
origin. It is very remarkble to ſee an iſland, far from any large
river, wholly compofed, from the marble bafe upwards, of
very minute fluviatile fand, and of that kind of fand which is
only proper to rivers of a long courfe. There are actually no
fuch rivers near the coaft of the Quarnaro. It is, however,
certain, that, in more diftant ages, and in circumstances very
different from the prefent, a large river run not far from the
place where the ancient and noble caſtle of Albona now ſtands,
and fell into the fea feveral miles further outward, paffing, as
the Po does at prefent, between low banks formed by its own
ſand. Without this, the iſland of Sanfego, which lies at a good
diſtance from the coafts of Iftria, and is about two hundred feet
in perpendicular height, could not have been formed. I fhall
offer
[ 470 ]
offer two reafons to fupport this opinion. The first is, becauſe,
in the fluviatile fand of Sanfego, there is no veftige of marine
bodies; and there are always fome in the fand of the mouths
of rivers. In the fecond place; it is certainly neceffary, that
the water of the river from whence the iſland was formed by
fucceffive depofitions, muft have run in a channel about two
hundred feet higher than the actual level of the fea. The nice
examination of the fand of Sanfego, and the Stracane, in which
neither fea falt, marine bodies, or fragments of them are found,
lays us under an evident neceffity of paffing over a great number
of ages in thought, to come near the epocha of the formation
of thoſe fandy ftrata. For this reaſon, I am inclined to prefer
the fupputations of thofe chronologers who have ſtudied to
give to the world the greateft poffible number of years, with
the view of rendering phyfical obfervations more confiftent with
the interpretations of ſcripture moſt generally received. In our
cafe, we muſt either involve ourſelves in inexplicable obfcurity,
or carry back our computations to very remote and unknown
times, when the preſent iſlands of the Quarnaro were conjoined
to the neighbouring continent. In confidering this ſubject at-
tentively, the unprepoffeffed geologifts will naturally think of
thofe ages, when the vaft provinces, now fubmerged by the
waters of the Mediterranean, introduced through the ftrait of
Gibraltar, were dry land; or perhaps on thofe ftill more remote
ages, which preceded the irruption of the Indian ocean from
the ftraits of Babelmandel to the mountains of Friuli, forming
that long channel which was afterwards interrupted by the ifth-
mus of Suez. And without doubt, all, or a great part of that
bay, in which the iſlands of Veglia, Arbe, Pago, and the larger,
as well as the finaller Apfyrtides now lie, muft have been a part
of the continent, and a high part of it too, long after the two
irruptions
*
[
47 ]
írruptions juſt mentioned. It is probable that the river waters
firſt tore and difcompofed, and afterwards the fea waters cor-
roded that portion of main land which was united to thoſe
iſlands, or rather which was continuous on all fides excepting the
exterior. The bafe, however, of the above mentioned iſlands,
as well as that of the neighbouring coafts, was formed by depo-
fitions of ftill more ancient feas. The human underſtanding
has not the needful data to calculate the thouſands of
years, that
muſt have elapſed from the time of the induration of the baſe,
to that of the depofitions of which that tract of country was
formed, whereof the fmall fandy iflands are only remains; nor
is it fufficiently inftructed concerning the periodical fucceffions
of deluges, to comprehend how, and wherefore, the fea waters
returned to deſtroy that which the rivers had fabricated on their
ancient foundations.
Of this river, which without doubt run through Iftria, and
diſcharged itſelf into the Adriatick fea, the memory is much
better preferved by the fluviatile fands of the islands, than in
the works or fragments of ancient writers: and it is fo clearly
expreffed, that it ferves to confirm the various teftimonies which
are found, eſpecially in the Greek authors of the beſt times, and
which perhaps were founded on ſome reſidue then remaining,
or perhaps only on venerable old tradition. Scylax Cariandenus,
the moſt ancient of geographers, fays, in his Periplus, that
"beyond the Veneti, is the nation of the Iftrians, and the river
And Scimnus
"Ifter, that alſo runs into the black fea."*
Chius, whoſe fragments were unjustly attributed to Marcianus
Heracleota; "The Ifter deſcends from diftant weſtern lands,
" and
«&
* Μετὰ δὲ ἐνετός εισιν ἔθνος Ισρον, καὶ ποταμὸς Ἕδρος, εντος ὁ ποταμὸς καὶ εἰς τὸν πόντον εισβάλλεις
Scylax Cariand, in Periple. int. Geograph. min. Hudfoni.
[ 472 ]
‡
"and diſcharges itſelf into the black fea, divided into five
*branches. Another branch of it runs into the Adriatick, well
"known by the Celti.” * And here it is- to be remarked, the
under the name of Celii, the Japidi or Iftrians, were alſo compre-
hended. + Pomponius Mela reckons, among the rivers that fall
into the Adriatick, a branch of the Danube, called alfo the
Ifter. And in the fame book, he exprefsly fays, "Istria took its
name from the river Ifter, a branch of the Danube, which runs
"into the Adriatick, oppofite to the mouths of the Po; and
"adds, that the intervenient waters of the fea are rendered
"fweet by meeting theſe two great rivers."§ Pliny abſolutely
denies the exiſtence of this river, which certainly had difap-
peared many ages before his time, and, with great appearance of
reafon, accuſes Nepos, **
an inhabitant of the banks of the Po,
who had, in fome of his works, mentioned this as an actual
river. Perhaps the learned naturaliſt had the ſame real reaſon in
this particular, as one would have who denied, in our days, the
ancient mouth of the Oxus or Gibon, in the Cafpian fea, and
the commerce that was carried on between the East Indies and
Europe by that means. The Tartars, who have turned the
courſe
}
C
Ο Ισρος ποταμὸς
Κατέρχεται ἀπὸ τῶν εσπερίων τοπων
Τὴν ἐνβολην πέντε τόμασι ποιέμενος.
Δυσὶ δὲ σχισόμενες και εις τον Αδρίαν ρέει
Αμέλει δ' ἄχρι Κελτικῆς γινωσκεται.
Scym. Gh. inter Geog. min.
f
* Ἰάπιδες ἔθνος Κελτικὸν πρὸς τῇ Ἰλλυρία. Διονύσια ἐκκαιδεκάτῳ. Epitom. Steph. Byzant.
Pomp. Mela lib. 2. cap. 3. Ex Danubio, qui jam dictus eft, Ifter.
Iftros Ifter emittitur.
‡
Ifter.-per
§ Pomp. Melalib. 2. cap. 4. Padus-fuum etiam in mari alveum fervat, donec
oum ex adverfo littore Hiftria eodem imperu profluens Hiſter amnis excipiat; hac re per
ea loca novigantibus qua utrinque amnes eunt inter marinas aquas dulcium hauftus eft.
* Plin. l. 3. c. 18.
ི་
[ 473 ]
courſe of that large river another way, by altering the circum-
fances, have not given a juft ground to modern writers to ac-
cuſe the ancients. Trogus Pompeius, according to his compiler
Juftin, takes notice * of an Adriatick branch of the Ifter, or of
a river communicating with it in the inland country, as a man.
might be expected to do of a thing hardly spoke of in his time, and.
of which no diſtinct veftiges were generally feen. Among later
authors, the old tradition of its exiftence was almoft conftantly
placed among the fables.. The authority of Pliny, weighty of
itſelf, and fupported by a fact actually true in his time, when no
fuch river was to be feen, and the want of exact and minute.
topographical knowledge of the country, deceived Strabo him--
felf; † and made Cluverius alſo, though a diligent inveſtigator,
particularly of the Italian antiquities, join with the common:
opinion. ‡
And yet Pliny was not fo demonftratively convinced of the
impoffibility of the ancient Iftrian river, as might perhaps ap--
pear at firſt fight. And what fenfible geologiſt will take upon
him pofitively to deny the poffibility of a thing, that depends on-
phyfical revolutions, of which we may every day fee examples?
The distance of Iftria, not permitting him to examine the fact.
perfonally on the fpot, he inclined towards the negative fide..
P P P
1]
*Juftin. Trogi Pomp. comp. L. XXXI.
If
* Τινὲς δὲ καὶ τον Ὕδρον ἀναπλεῦσαι φασι μέχρι πολλές αυτές περὶ τον Ἰάσωνας· δι δὲ μέχρι το Αδριο
[ οἱ μέν κατ᾽ ἄγνοιαν τῶν ποτων. οἱ δὲ και ποταμον Ισρον, ἐκ τῶ μεγάλα ισρὰ τὴν ἀρχὴν ἔχοντα ἐκβάλλειν
εις τον ῾Αδρίαν φασίνα Στραβο βιβλοι στο
Quidam etiam bonam Hiſtri partem adverfo flumine fubvectum Jafonem cum fuis tra--
dunt: nonnulli ufque in Hadriam, ignoratione fcilicet locorum decepti, alii etiam Hiſtrum›
quemdam fluvium ex magno Hiftro ortum in Hadriam influere aiunt.
‡ V. Phil. Clav. Ital. Ant. ubi de Hiftria.·
B
[ 474 ]
If he had been told that the Tiber, in diftant times had its bed
many feet higher than the preſent, level; and that the vestiges
and proofs are plainly feen, on the fides of Monte Pincia, in the
great heaps of fandy tophus quite full of impreffions, of the leaves
of the alder, willow, reeds and other aquatick plants, or fuch
as grow by the fides of rivers, he would not have inconfiderately
denied this truth,* Monte Pincio was too near, and the veſti-
ges of the waters too vifible; nor would it have ſatisfied that
good obferver to know, that, ever fince the foundation of Rome,
the Tiber had run with very little difference, in the fame bed,
or detained him from going to examine, with his own eyes, the
foundations of the propofition, or from embracing it, after
having found them manifeft. The comparison of what he has
wrote concerning the fifh Trichia in Ariftotle's words, which I
took notice of in page 433, fhews that he was difpofed to en-
tertain a more juſt opinion on this ſubject. Ariſtotle wrote ex-
preffly, "that this ſpecies of fiſh alone, was always caught by
the fiſhermen in entering the black fea, but in coming out
*
*
*
+
55
}
套
​never
bae vog
That the rivers have anciently run in much higher places, than they do at
prefent, is very manifeft. The river of the Val d' Elſa ran along the plains, and
the disjunctions it made now form the hills of Barberino, between Florence and
Siena; the Paduan Brenta once ran upon the plain tops of the hills of the ſette
communi, which, by a gentle curvature, extended to the fea; and the Adige left
manifeft figns of its paffage in the Veroneſe hills, now far diſtant from its actual
courſe, and where the celebrated Signor Giovanni Arduino has made feveral ex-
á
cellent obfervations with a philofophical eye. The Aftico, a dreadful torrent in
the Vicentine, has dug out a bed for itſelf in its own ancient depofitions of
gravel; and not far from the village of Piovene, on the flanks of the celebrated
Monte Summano, this excavation is in fome places above two hundred feet per-
pendicular, and the correſpondence of the gravelly ftrata is feen on both fides.
Thefe obfervations are lefs or more applicable to all the rivers that take their
rife in the mountains.
2
ร
ཀནྡྷ
1
[ 475 ]
}
ર
Hever, or very rarely, and looked upon as a bad omen;
* and
giving the reafon, he fays, that it fwims up the Danube,
againſt the ſtream, till it comes to the divifion of the river,
where, paffing from one branch to the other, it defcends in--
❝to the Adriatick." Pliny, in fpeaking of the Trichia, does
not name Ariſtotle, though he copies his words, altering only
thöfe which regard the divergency of the river, to adapt them-
to the ſtate in which things were in his time." Of all the
fifhes that enter the black fea, the Trichia is the only one that
<does not return back again. And it is alfo the only one that
પદ્ધ
enters into the Danube, and fwims against the current, till
"it finds the way, by fubterranean veins, to pass into the
“Adriatick."† If Pliny was inclined to allow a fubterraneous
communication between. the Danube and the Adriatick, with-
out having in perfon examined the country under which that
communication probably muſt paſs, that is, the tract of land
which forms the narroweſt diſtance from the bed of the river to
the fea thore, how much further would he have gone after an
accurate examination? He would have found, by being on the
fpot, and anatomizing the bowels of that part of the continent,
that Iftria and Liburnia are formed by vaſt beds of marble, divid-
い
​Į
PPP 2-
?
ed
}
7
7
Οἱ δέ τριχίαι μόνοι μέν ιχθύων εἰσπλέοντες μὲν τὸν πόντον αλίσκονται, ἐκπλέοντες· δὲ ἐχῃ ὁρῶντα
ἀλλὰ ὅταν δὲ ληφθῇ τις περὶ Εεζαντιον, οἱ ἁλιεῖς τὰ δίκτυα περικαθαίρεσι, διὰ τὸ μὴ εἰωθέναι ἐκπλεῖν·
dé
dia tó
αιτιον δέ, ὅτι ἔτοι μόνοι ἀναπλέωσιν εις τον Ιςρον, είθ', η σχίσεται, καταπλέυσιν εἰς τόν Αδρίων.
As iſt. Hift. Anim, l. 8. c.-1
1.8.c.-13:
1
Omnium piſcium foli Trichie intrantes Pontum capiuntur, exeuntes nunquam confpi-
ciuntur, Et fi quis eorum apud Byzantium aliquando capiatur, pifcatores retia luftrant,
quie exire minime confueverunt. Caufa eft quod hi foli fubeunt Hiftrum, ac mox ubi
flumen finditur defluunt in Hadriam.
་ ༨
Intrantium Pontum foli non remeant trichia
Sed hi foli Iftrum amnem fub-
eunt; ex eo fubterraneis ejus venis in Adriaticum mare defluunt; itaque & illine der
ſcendentes, nec unquam fubeuntes e mari · vifuntur. C. Plin. Nat.`Hift. leg. © '156-
#
·
[ 476 ]
}
K
片
​}
}
$
ed horizontally by ſftrata of ochre eafily diffolved, and which
may be carried away by little water. He would have under-
ftood, that the flow diffolution and afportation of the ochre
placed between the marble, muft have thrown the ftrata out of
equilibrium, and cauſed them to ſplit and fall in of themfelves
for want of an equal baſe. Nor would he have ſtopt here; but
paffing rapidly in his mind from ftratum to ftratum, and from
diffolution to diffolution, he would have imagined the erofions,
and the thouſands of years neceffary to produce a whirlpool or
gulf, or to fink a large hollow on a fudden. The prodigious
number of ancient gulfs, and vaft caverns, which are every
where met with in thofe provinces; the frequent formation of
new ones; the inequality of the ground, which bears evident
marks of an habitual fucceffion of ruins; and the waters, which
in large quantities, run to the fea through thoſe vaſt ſubterra-
nean paffages, would altogether have made a ſtrong impreffion
on him. Perhaps he alfo would have attributed the deviation
of the pretended branch of the river Ifter to a combination of
fuch accidents, and, extending his obfervations as far as the
Timavus, (which he knew, as well as Poffidonius, had in former
times had a longer courſe above ground, till deviated by a fud-
den gulf, it was forced to run many miles under ground) he
would have feen, that the analogous ſtructure of the hills of
thoſe countries, would naturally produce analogous effects. And
I dare fay that Pliny, as a fenfible cofmologift, would have
attributed the total defacement of thofe provinces, in a great
meaſure, to the fucceffive conftancy and variation of the hills. *
And if he had added to theſe obſervations, that Iftria, though
fituated at the foot of mountains, has no confiderable rivers in
*
}
1
our
* V. Poffidon, teſtim, ap. Strab. 1. 5. & Plin. l, 2. cap. 103.
[ 477 ]
>
our days, that, in the inland parts of it, immenfe depofites, of
fluviatile fand are found almoft pulverifed; and in higher parts
there are ſmall ſtones, and exotick pebbles that have been rolled
many years before the fand; that the rivers of that country
either iffue from the bottoms of the hills, almoſt formed; or if,
like the Aria, they appear to derive their origin from lakes,
theſe have been evidently produced by the finking of the mar-
ble ſtrata, the correſpondent parts whereof ftill furround them;
I ſay, had Pliny compared all theſe circumſtances together, he
would not have accufed the ancient Greek geographers of falfe-
hood, nor thought himſelf under the neceffity of fomewhat
mutilating the text of Ariftotle, whofe pofitive affertion he did,
not chuſe to contradict. And moreover, if he had particularly
examined the banks and mouths of the Arfia, he would have
feen, that they are by no means proportioned to fuch a pitiful
ftream as that river now is; but that its vaſt bed, among hills
of marble, muft have been excavated in former times, by an
infinitely fuperior force, and filled with a much more confidera-
ble quantity of water.
{
+
J
3
Appearances, and repeated obfervations, induce me to believe,
that the quartzofe fands depofited in various parts of Iftria, and
the ſand on the iſland of Sanfogo, have both been brought from
the fame country; and that they have been accumulated by the
inundations of the ancient river that run in the bed of the Arfia,
particularly on the right fide of the river, the ground being too
high on the left, along the roots of the hill, which we call
Monte Maggiore. The fandy iflands of the Quarnaro, are alſo
fituated on the right fide of the actual mouths of the Arfia,
thirty miles in the fea, and about eight miles from the moun-
tainous iſlands of Cherfo and Ofero, which were anciently conti-
{
?
nuations
1
E 478 1
nuations of the hills of the continent, as the correfpondencé
of the ftrata interrupted by the fea in later times fhews beyond
a doubt.
5
{,
►
1
f
If phyfical proofs, deduced from a diligent inſpection of the
country, add weight to the reſpectable authority of the ancient
geographers, and hiftorical poets, notwithstanding the diſappro-
bation of Strabo, Diodorus Siculus, and other writers of leffer
note; a viſible and palpable monument of the diviſion of the
Ifter, and of its double mouths, which is found in Goltzius,
may perhaps afford the laft degree of force and evidence.*
Among the moft remarkable Greek coins published by that cele-
brated antiquary, there is one which bears two heads turned in
an oppofite direction, and on the reverſe it has an eagle and a
dolphin with the name of the nation Ixrpin I havesfeen four
of thefe coins, not all done at the fame time, in the royal mu
feum of Gapadimonte at Naples.
C
B
纵
​(127
The firft who explained this monument, which in the prefent
cafe is very valuable, was Gerard Voffius, in his annotations on
Pomponius. Mela, who interpreted the two heads as emblems of
the Ifter, which diſcharged itſelf in two different feas, ac-
cording to the opinion of the people by whom the coin was
fruck: Nonius alfo, the commentator of Golzius, attributed the
coin that carries the national name of Ixrginwv to the Iftro-
politani, though the name itſelf feems rather to denote the
Iftrian Nation, and not to have belonged to the Iftropolitan
community, as, in that cafe, it would have been wrote IxTpqw.Tw
4
4
I do
1
Goltzius in Nummis Græc. T. 3. Op: Tab. 28 N. VI. fjor,
+ [ Iftro proxima eft Iftropolis.] Plures ftron appellanty, & fic quoque déteres
nummi apud G·ltzium & alibi, in quibus manifefte fcriptum Ixrew Jonice
<
pro.
+
[ 479 ]
}
1
न्
I do not think I need to enlarge further, to magnify this
new proof of the exiſtence of the Iftrian river, or to take notice
how unreaſonable it would be, and of how bad an example to
maintain, even in contradiction to the ancient coins, that the
divergency of the Danube has always been fabulous, or its com-
munication with ſome river that diſcharged itſelf into the Adri-
atick. I know very well, that the illuftrators of the Iftrian
antiquities believed, that this monument, ought to be applied
in another manner: but it cannot be thought a want of due
deference to them, if, uniting this nummary proof to the others
drawn from a phyfical obfervation of the province and the
neighbouring countries, I endeavour to fet it in a more inter-
refting light. The learned efteemers of ancient coins, who
know how much credit is due to them, and, how much ad-
vantage and perfpicuity the hiftory of diftant times has always
derived from them, are in ſome meaſure bound to patronize my
cauſe.
F
5
طر
If the phyfical proofs and conjectures which I have collected,
appear as conclufive to others as they do to me, and confe
quently place beyond all doubt the courfe of an ancient river,
which, paffing along the bottom of the hills Ocra and Albio,
as feems moſt probable, and traverſing Iftria, diſcharged itſelf
into
prò IxresewvAb adverfa parte duo capita adparent fibi invicem junéta,
altero tamèn inverſo. Quærunt multi quid fibi velint adverſa iſta capita. Ego Iftri
fluminis imaginem effe puto. Nam cum alia flumina exeant in idem mare, folus
fete Danubius, vel Ifter, in diverfa maria diverfis & contrariis exire capitibus
credebatur: nempe in Pontum Euxinum, & in Adriaticum. Oftia vero fluminum
paffim capita appellari a Latinis & Græcis licet minus proprie, cum potius fontes
adpellari debeant, notiffimum eft. Ifaac, Voſs. Obſerv. in. Melam. 38.
[ 480 ]
1
མ་
P
into the fea, in ages not fo very far from the hiftorical times,
and pofterior to the expanfion of the ancient rivers over the vaſt.
plains, which now, being interrupted by the vallies, exift only
in part on the tops of the Morlack and Illyric mountains, "the"
fmall iſland of Sanfego ought henceforth to be eſteemed lefs
obfcure and ignoble. Being acknowledged as an incontraftible
monument of the exiſtence of a large ancient river in Iftria,
befides its merit in the most remote hiftory of the Provinces,
adjacent to the Adriatick, and particularly of the illuftrious Cities.
which boaft of the Argonauts and Colchefians as their found-
ers, hitherto inconfiderately confuſed with fables, it will alfo
perhaps contribute to raiſe among us a more juſt eſteem for na-
tural hiftory, which is ſtill deſpiſed and derided by many as
an uſeleſs ſtudy, notwithstanding the improvements of the age,
and the example of the other polite nations of Europe.
Ancient Infcriptions.-
4
!
10
Though after the illiterate Brigii and Colchef, who fettled:
in the iſlands of Cherfo and Ofero, it was well known to the
Greek navigators, and probably often vifited by the merchants.
of that Nation, and perhaps inhabited by them, yet no mo-
numents belonging to them now exift there. In former times,
however, there were fome, and Sebaftian Giuftiniani, in an ac-
count he gives of Dalmatia and the adjacent iſlands, written.
about the middle of the 16th century, fays, that, in his time,
there were many Greek and Latin infcriptions in Ofero. "Some
few of the laſt ſtill remain: but it may be fuppofed, that thofe,
who carried away the Greek, will alfo have taken the best of
the Roman inſcriptions, if the ignorance of the inhabitants has
2-3
****
AS
not
y
[ 481 ]
not deſtroyed or buried them. I find in a fmall collection in
profe and verfe, printed about the end of M D. in praiſe of
Sebaftiano Quirini, Count of the iſland, that there had been dug
up, near the City of Ofero, a very beautiful ftatue of Greek
marble and workmanſhip, which was placed in the court of the
Grimani palace at S. Maria Formofa in Venice. The author
ſays it repreſented Medea, and praiſes the workmanſhip greatly.
At preſent no ſtatue is to be ſeen in the Grimani palace agreeable
to the deſcription of that found among the ruins of Ofero.
The following are the few infcriptions that now remain above
ground in that ifland, and which Monf. Dinarizio, the late
Biſhop of Ofero, of pious memory, collected from various parts
of the dioceſs, and placed in the Vefeovile palace, to prevent
their being ſpoiled, or hid.
I.
LICIA E . IN.
AE. DVLCISSI..
ANNIS. XII. BE..
FIL. CASTIS.
A SIMPLICIA..
AMANTISSIMA.
This infcription, which in itſelf is of no importance, merits
rather the obſervation of naturaliſts than of antiquaries. It is of
greek marble, and remained a long time under the fea water.
The Foladi, or Datteri marini, had taken poffeffion of it, and
from thence it is perforated. This is a demonftrative proof
againſt M. de Reaumur, that the Foladi do not want inftruments
to perforate the ftones in which they ſettle, and that it muſt
૦ ૧ ૧
often
[ 482 ]
often prove a miſtake, to believe they had opened a paffage into
the clay, or mud, before the ſtrata were hardened under the fea
water's. Hence all the deductions of that celebrated academi-
cian muft fall to the ground, not only concerning the wonderful
age of the Foladi, but alſo concerning the no defs: wonderful.
ſpeedy induration of the fubmarine ftrata. *
II.
TI. CAESERI. AVG. F..
AVGSTO. PON. MAX.
G. AEMILIVS. VAL. F. OCLA..
L. FONTEIVS. Q. F. RVFVS
II VIRI. PORTICVM..
CVRIAM. D. D. FACIVNDVM
CVRAVERE. IDQVE. PROBAV.
This ftone was found at Caifole, from whence feveral others
were tranfported to Ofero. Perhaps, by diligence, the means
might be diſcovered of illuftrating this monument, as well
as
*As this infcription has ferved to illuftrate a point of natural history, I think
I may be permitted to add here another obfervation relative to the Foladi, and
which I alſo owe to an infcription found under water; that was, and perhaps
ftill is, at Torcello. It is engraved on vulcanic lavi, or granitello of the Paduan
hills. Neither the Foladi, nor any other species of marine creatures had bit or
lodged in it. By extending my obfervations in our canals, and in various places
about the city, I have found that the Foladi never lodges in vulcanic ftones;
fometimes an accidental infect is found on it, but never bites. Nor have I hither-
to found Foladi lodged in vitrefcent fand ftones of rough grain. From thefe con-
ftant obfervations I thought I might conjecture that the Foladi hollows and enlar-
ges its habitation in calcareous marble, by means of a corrofive liquid which it
can emit at pleaſure, but which has no effect on the vitrifiable ftones. It is true
that the Foladi does not love brick, on which acids act powerfully, when not
burnt to a total vitrefcence, but it has always a leffer or greater degree, and there-
fore perhaps is difagreeable to the Foladi.
1
I 483 ]
५
as the place, which, in other times, appears to have been
Qapit Infulæ. And by comparing circumftances, the bad ortho-
"graphy of the words CAESERI and AVGSTO might be ac-
counted for. One of the duumvirs is perhaps the ſon of that
Valerius Oclatinus, of whom we find the tomb was prepared, be-
fore he thought of dying, by his daughter Procilla, in the fol-
lowing infcprition.
III.
VALERI
O OCLATI
NO AEDII
VIRO QQ VA
LERIA PRO
CILLA F PA
TRI V V F
eValerio Oclatino Edili Duumviro Quinquennali Valeria Procilla
Filia Patri Vivo Vivens fecit. It is obſervable for the V V F,
which may, I think, be explained as above.
1
IV.
IMP. CA.
.RI.
A V G
No
I M..
TRIBVNI. POT. II. CON
PP. RESPVB...
XXIII.
DD.
Imperatori Cæſari Trajano... (or Hadriano)... Imperatori Tri-
bunitia Poteftate III. Confuli. Patri Patria Refpublica (the name
is wanting, and it is a pity) Decreto Decurionum XXIII. It is cut
on the ſtump of a column little more than two feet high, and
Q99 2
about
(484)
*
about a foot in diameter. It was tranfported from Gaviole, or
Gaifale. Perhaps it was the bafe of an imperial ftatue, or de-
noted the dedication of fome temple, or Bafilick. The number
XXIII might caufe it to be taken for a miliary column placed on
the road fide.
V.
*
ARTIFICI
BVS. MINER
BABVL LIA
SEX. F. MAXI
A. V. S.
Artificibus Minervis Babullia Sexti Filia Maxima Votum folvit.
I had read this inſcription the firſt time with the eyes of a mine-
ralogift, and my interpretation was ridiculous enough. The
ftone is like the baſe of a ſtatue. It is votive, as every one ſees.
by the two letters V. S. There was more than one Minerva
among the devout ancients, as there was alfo more than one
Juno. Spon gives us one in which we read IVNONIBUS
SACRUM, &c.
VI.
+ :
SEX. IV LI. AGÀ
THOPI. E PHE B
A N.
VII
TE. TERRA. OPTESTOR
LEVITER. SUPER. OSSA
QUIESCAS. ET TENE
RAE. ETATI. NE. GRA
VIS AES SE. VELIS.
1
This
[ 485])
1 This ftone was found among the ancient ruins of Oferò, under
ground. It is of the good times, and valuable. The V inftead
of an O in the word EPHEBV may be an error of the engraver:
but it perhaps denotes the genitive of Epnbox pronounced after
the Greek manner, EpyCox..
VII.
C. LV CRETIO
SEX. F. A. IX. H. S.
CAL FILI A TE SECVND
Caio Lucretio Sexti Filio Annorum IX. Heic Sito Caj Fili a te
fecunder. It is obfervable for the unufual prayer.
VIII.
$7.
VENE RIA E
CN. F. PRIMAE
CRISP VS HILA
RI. SVLP. FECIT.
The fepulchral infcription of Veneria is indeed of no impor--
tance, and the following fragment is no better: but we ought
not, on that account, to deny praife to him, who took the trou-
ble to preſerve them, It happens frequently, nay almoft.
always, that the habitude of preferving from deſtruction the
things of little value, faves thofe of the greateſt importance,
which otherwife would perish, if left to barbariſm and ig-
norance..
IX.
.. SIVS. OPI..
... C.
AEDIL. R
X
[ 486 ]
X
PRIMITIVO
FILIO
ANN XX VI
MENS V
PRISCILLA
E T
SVCCESS VS :
PARENTE.S
INFELICIS
The above is in the facrifty of the church of S. Iodoro in
Cherfo.
XI.
SEX. IVLIVS. C. F. NIGER.
AED. IIVIR. V.
F.
Y
SIBI.
ET. IVL...
ET.
FR.
20
}
IN. FR.
TERGO..
.. A.
M.
This fepulchral monument is half buried in the fqualid cot-
tage of a poor peafant, in the beautiful and ill cultivated inland
of Sanfego.
+
' '
A LETTER
[487]
1
$
A LETTER TO
K
JOHN SY
*
SYMONDS, Efq;:
BY WAY OF APPENDIX TO THE ESSAY OF OBSER-
VATIONS ON THE ISLAND OF CHERSO. AND-
JOSERO.
TH
HE defire of rendering my book of obſervations on the
ifland of Cherſo and Ofero, which is the refult of the
voyage made last year in your company, and that of the learned
Dr. Cirilli, lefs imperfect, had made me project to cross the
Adriatick again. Our courteous hoſts invited me, and my own
health required a change of air; but feveral caufes concurred to
detain me. A genteel invitation from your illuftrious friend the
Biſhop of Derry removed all heſitation. I paffed the gulf,
animated by the defire of refiding ſome days with ſo learned and
amiable a perſon, and met him at Pola. You are already informed,
that, on account of fome fufpicions of the health office, we were
obliged to keep forty days at a diſtance from the iſland; that
the freſh eruption of Vesuvius, announced in the news papers,
was a temptation we could not refift; and accordingly we paffed
over from Rovigno to Ancona, in hopes to get in time to a part
of the feaft; but at Rome had the unwelcome news that the
mountain was become quiet. You may imagine we did not fail
to
·
L
[ 488 ]
to obſerve, on the road from Ancona to Rome, all the variety of
earth and ſtones, all the veſtiges of fubverfions, the remarkable
waters, and all the remains of architecture, and to take notes
on the ſpot. At Rome we faw again one of the tables of elaf-
tick marble belonging to Prince Borghefe, which ſurpriſed the
naturalifts, who have ſeen it hitherto, and feemed inexplicable
to the Mecenas of natural hiſtory, Lord Bute, who in profound
knowledge is equal to any of the moſt experienced profeffors. *
Having ſtaid at Rome long enough to gratify the genius of
genius of young
Mr. Hervey, equally eager in the ſtudy of architecture, and na-
tural hiſtory; though we ſpared him the taſk of looking at all
the trifles and infignificant fragments uſually impoſed on foreign-
ers
f
• The elaftick marble preferved in the houfe of Prince Borghefe at Rome, is lefs
celebrated than it really ought to be. The wonderful properties of this foffil
are unknown to many of the learned men of that capital, and feem incredible to
foreigners who have not feen them with their own eyes. F. Jacquier, a celebrated
mathematician, has given a deſcription in the literary Gazette of Paris, but the
naturalifts cannot be contented with it. If permiffion was given to make the re-
quifite experiments, this curious phenomenon might be better illuftrated. There
are five or fix tables of that marble; their length is about two feet and a half
the breadth about ten inches, and the thickness a little lefs than three. They
were dug up, as I was told, in the feod of Mondragone; the grain is of Carrarefe
marble, or perhaps of the fineſt Greek. They feem to have fuffered fome attack
of fire: though the firft degree of pulverization obfervable in the angles, can, per-
haps, ſcarcely be called that of imperfect calcination. They are very dry, do
not yield to external impreffion, refound to the hammer, like other congenerous
marble, and are perhaps fufceptible of a poliſh. Being fet on end, they bend,
ofcilitating backward and forward; when laid horizontally, and raiſed at one end,
they form a curve, beginning towards the middle; if placed on a table, and a
piece of wood or any thing elſe is laid under them, they make a ſalent curve,” and
touch the table with both ends. Notwithstanding this flexibility, they are liable
to be broken if indifcreetly handled; and therefore one table only, and that not
the beft, is fhewn to the curious. Formerly they were all together in the Prin-
ceſs' apartment on the ground floor.
*
}
[ 489 ]
{
ers who vifit that city; we purfued our journey to Naples, ob-
14. J
' >
ferving all the way, and entertained with the acute remarks of
話​を
​our young fellow traveller, who every poft prefented us with
fome curious ftones, and gave an account of the differences in
the fubftance and courſe of the ſtrata. We found that the vul-
canic
hills, at the foot of which Rome ſtands, and which be-
gin to appear on the road under Otricoli, end a few miles beyond
Valletri near Cafa-Fondata; and that they begin again at Mola
di Gacta, and extend all the way to Naples, exhibiting a great
variety of combinations to the eyes of an obferver. We paid our
vifit to Vefuvius, which was in fo good a difpofition to fuffer
itfelf to be feen after the late figns of wrath, that we were per-
fectly ſatisfied with the obſervations we were permitted to make
in the great crater, as well as on the brinks of the interior gulf.
The thick arfenical, ammoniacal, vitriolick and fulphureous
fmoke did not fuffocate us, no more than the Mofete, though
repeatedly tried. The Solfatara appeared to us an object ftilf
more intereſting than Vefuvius; I was twice in it, the first time
in company with Don Guiseppe Vairo, a learned profeffor of che-
miſtry, intimately acquainted with the Solfatara, and with all
its fecrets. By his affiſtance I ſaw more of it in a few hours,
than another could do in many days, without fo courteous and
learned a companion. We alſo vifited with due veneration, thẹ
environs of Pozzuolo, Ercolani, and Pompejano, and paid our re-
fpects to the codices preferved at Portico, with the reaſonable ſen-
timent of an earneſt defire to ſee them opened. In fine we left
Naples, after no very long ftay; enriched with informations and
obfervations, which this is not the proper place to give an ac-
count of. We croffed over the Apennines in our way to Man-
fredonia, and had the opportunity of obferving where the vul-
canic matter ends. We did not go to the falt mines of Monte
Mileto,
Rrr
*
£
¿
( 490)
نجبر
j
Mileto, which the king keeps guarded, that the inhabitants
the country may not ufe the falt; to them probably is owing
the faltneſs of the wells of Grotta-Miranda, and the neighbouring
places in the heart of the Apennines. We collected, on the tops
of the higheſt hills, fluitated ftones full of marine bodies. In
ſome parts, ftrata of fand, and teſtaceous bodies occupy the tops
of the hills, as under the city of Ariana, where a good collection
of petrifactions well expreffed might eafily be made. It is alfo
curious to fee, at three miles diftance from that city, the flutiated
pebbles, which being reduced to a very white dufty calx, without:
the action of fire, continue ftill wrapt in marine fluviatile mud,
indurated by a force very different from vulcanic. The coun-
tfy round Ariano, for ten or twelve miles in circuit, is all of
this mud and fea fand, combined in various ways, and more or
lefs containing teftacei. But I perceive I am going too far from
my preſent purpoſe. We defcended through the defolate plains
of Puglia to Manfredonia; there we embarked, without ſeeing,
your Prior of Monte Gargano. We paffed through the iſlands.
of Dalmatia, where we frequently found depofites of foffil bones;
from thence visiting the littoral towns, and Morlacchi on the:
continent; fearching for the veftiges of ancient rivers, and dif-
covering them on the tops of the hills, and in the deepeft hor-
rour of caverns; meeting, in the interior parts of the country,
with many vulcanic hills, and recent marks of earthquakes, and
enjoying the moſt cordial hoſpitality, as well among thoſe woods,
as in the more poliſhed maritime places. After all this jour-
1
},
5
{
•
7
しま
​} {
¨
ney, of which, in a ſhort time, you will fee the particulars and.
obſervations deſcribed, leaving the continent we paffed over to
Ofero, and from thence to Cherfo. There I was deprived of his
Lordship's agreeable company, who, being recalled to your fortu-
nate iſlands by preffing affairs, purfued his journey through:
Iftria,..
T 491 ]
་
Iftria, to avoid a precarious voyage by fea; but the rare qua-
lities which adorn that noble prelate, remained deeply impreſſed
on my mind. I found fome changes in the city of Cherfo. The
two fetid pools, which were a great nuifance, had been filled
up through the paternal attention of the nobleman Giambattista
Cornaro, who, a few months ago, was ſent thither from Venicé
as governor of the iſland, and who has every quality to render
himſelf both agreeable and uſeful to any community over which
he prefides. He has taken the needful meaſures to have the
fhallow bay of fea water within the city properly cleared and
deepened in the courſe of next winter. Some of the principal
inhabitants propoſe to make new plantations, and to affign funds
for maintaining a publick ſchool. I know not whether our
counfels and fuggeftions have had any part in theſe improve-
ments, but I confefs my felf-love felt fome fecret emotions on
feeing fuch good beginnings in that city.
}
V
In the foffil hiftory I found but little new. There are, in the
neighbourhood of Ofero, vulcanic ftones; and that is perhaps,
the moſt important article of my further obfervations; becauſe
it contributes to confirm the conjecture that fubterraneous fire
has, fome way, had a part in raiſing all the hills formed under
the ancient waters of the fea; as it is allowed to be the only
architect of thofe that rife out of the earth, like Monte Nuovo of
Pozzuoli, and the little hills that were thrown up from the roots
of Vefuvius, in 1760, to the height of a hundred feet. That
the fire has acted under ground in fome other parts of the iſland,
without iffuing through any aparture, or throwing out lava,
feems to be proved by feveral depofites of Saldame, which, as I
have alſo had occafion to obferve in the vulcanic hills of Morlac-
chia, is ufually nothing else, in thoſe parts, but the pulveriza-
'
{{
༈༙༣ ༣་
Rrr 2
tion
[ 492 ]
tion of fand ftone, produced by the calcination and diffolution
of the tophaceous or tartarous interftices, that held the particles
connected together...
1
1
1
?
→ '
A maſs of earth, of a light blue colour, and which has every
appearance of being aluminous, deferves to be attentively exa-
mined. It is on the fea fhore below the caſtle of Lubenize. I
was not able to make any experiment on the fpot for want of
time, and the neceffary inftruments. There is not, however,
need of much diligence or time to diſcover, that as almoſt all the
iſlands of Dalmatia abound in fine marble, ſome pieces of which
I have brought along with me, ſo the iſland of Cherfo is well
ftored with it. In feveral buildings of the city, the breccia of
the neighbouring hills has been employed, and has an excellent
effect, being not inferiour to the moſt valuable African, either ins
hardneſs or beauty of the colours.
}
{
}
Accident led me to find out that a literato of the 16th cen-
tury, accuſed of having had the weakneſs of denying, or at leaft
diffembling his native country, actually belongs to Cherfo, and
ought to be reſtored to that iſland: the people of Cherfo have
cauſe to be proud of him. Francefco Patrizio, a philofopher,
poet, and philologiſt of great name, who made a great figure in
his age, and had views fuperior to the ſtudies of thoſe times, was
born in the iſland of Cherfo. A writer on Illyric affairs, whofe
voluminous manuſcript work was courteouſly entruſted to me by
Dr. Antonio Danieli of Zara, well known for his collection of
antiquities, fays, that the obſcurity, or rather ignominy of his
birth, obliged that great man to conceal the place of his nativity.*
Thefe
* Edidit Crexana Civitas ætate noftra præſtantiſſimum virum politicarum literarum,
Platonica doctrine in Europa facile Principem, qui dum Romanæ Academia a
Clemente
+
[ 493 ]
Theſe accufations do not appear to me to be altogether well
founded; and it is even plain, that the little attention ufed by
fome in reading and writing, has made him Saneſe, Farrareſe,
Venetian, and I know not what. There are proofs in his own
witings that he was related to the noble family De Petris, which
is diſtinguiſhed among the principal families of the iſland, This
man was a prodigy of learning in his times, and would have
proved a bright luminary of the revived philofophy had he been
born a little later, or could he have explained himſelf with more
liberty, by profeffing the ſciences in places lefs fubject to fetters
than Ferrara and Rome were. He had thoughts concerning the
primitive ſtate of our globe that were not common; and in one
of his dialogues intitled Il Lamberto, laid down precifely the fame
theory which your Burnet, a century after, appropriated to him-
felf, copying it almoſt word for word. Patrizio durft not expofe
this as his own ſyſtem, as it would have diſpleaſed the ſcholaftic
theologues of thofe times, who believed that the cataracts of
heaven had more water to furniſh towards a deluge than the a-
byffes of the earth; and therefore he made it paſs for a coſmolo-
gical tradition, which had gained credit in Abyffinia, and was
found written at large in the annals of Ethiopia. Though the
theory of the earth imagined by Patrizio is liable to many ex-
ception's, yet it cannot be denied that it is ingenious, and it is but
juſt that the plagiary biſhop ſhould reſtore the glory to the author.
The
}
Clemente VIII. præpofitus omnium in fe oculos converteret, ibidem diem extremum claufit,
Francifcus Patritius appellatus; qui tamen maximo Philofophici animi præjudicio, ex
eo, quod humiliſſimo loco apud fuos naſceretur, natales occultare ftudens Senenſem ſe civem
maxima cordatorum virorum admiratione in fronte lucubrationum fuarum fcripfit. Ẩu-
divi etiam a fide digno viro id non tantum egiſſe occultandæ humilitatis quam facrilegorum
natalium gratia ; fertur enim rurali Sacerdote agri Crexani patre genitus, &c. Ex Di-
alog, mff. de Illyrico, Cæfaribufque Illyricis, Jo. Tomce Marnavich,
{: 494 ].
/ ì 1
{* *}
The thoughts he has left us in the Lamberto, concerning the
revolutions of our globe, are bold and ingenious; but thofe are
no lefs profound and fublime, which he has extended in the
Contarino, in which he gives an account of a long cofmological
diſcourſe pretended to have been made by the old Egyptian her-
mit Ammun to the Archbishop Antonio Marcello de Petris, who
met with him on his journey to the holy land. The learned
folitary spoke to him about diffolutions, and renovations of the
world as if by way of prophecy, but in fuch a manner as not-
withſtanding he has wrapt up his conjectures in Platonic dark-
nefs, and expreffed his ideas in a language like that of Trifme-
giftus, the metaphyfical contemplator diſcovers himself as well as
the diligent obferver of natural phenomena. Patrizio was really
fuch, as appears by his works, and particularly the Nuova Fila-
fofia. In the twenty-feventh book of his Pancofmias, treating of
the motions of the fea, he defcribes the Euripus of Ofero, com-
paring it to that of Chalcis, into which Ariftotle is faid to have
thrown himſelf, becauſe he could not comprehend the cauſe of
the tide.*
He made many voyages by fea, and joining his own
obfervations with thoſe of others, formed a ſeries of the known
Euripi, fome of which ſuffer no violence of flux and re-flux, and
others in various degrees. The Euripus of Chalcis fuffers eſtuati-
on ſeven times a day; but near the city of Ofero in Liburnia
there is the narroweft Euripus of all. "In it, fays our philofo-
pher, I have ſeen the ſea riſe and fall more than twenty times
a day, and I ſtaid ſeveral days there on purpoſe to obſerve this
"phenomenon. It is about fifty paces long, and not ten broad;
"its depth is about feven feet." He has not perhaps been ſo hap-
py in explaining this curiofity, as he was exact in obferving it.
66
}
* Pancofmias lib. 27. De maris univerfi motibus. p. 135.
It
८
[ 495 ]
K
1
It is evident that the currents, winds, and flux and re-flux force
into the large and deep bay's which lie at each end of the Euri-
pus a quantity of water difproportionable to the narrowneſs of the
paffage. The different combinations of theſe cauſes, producing
greater or leffer refiſtances in the outlet, a greater or leſſer number
of daily eſtuations follows, as well as the various degrees of their
Violence. As in his fea voyages he made many and curious ob-
ſervations, ſo when travelling by land, he did the fame relative
to foffil hiſtory, aftronomy, and meteorology; he mentions that
he went in perfon to interrogate fome fiſhermen in the mouths of
the Arfia, on whoſe boat a flying ball of fire had ſtopt, and broke
there without doing any harm. * And in the iſland of Cyprus
he was overtaken, in the plain of Collopfida, by a fudden ſhower
of rain, accompanied by a great deal of lightening, which wet-
ting him from head to foot covered him with an infinity of ſhin-
ing points, To this purpofe he takes notice of the phofphors of
the fea water; and reaſons concerning light in a very fatisfactory
manner. He alſo difcourſes fenfibly on the real influence of the
heavenly bodies on fublunary things, confuting aſtrology, and
treating it with ridicule, though much in vogue in thoſe times. †
I thought it not amifs to enlarge a little in fpeaking of this
man, though without giving an extract of all his works, which
would be too tedious, chiefly to renew his memory in the island
where he was born, and to reftore, to the noble family from
which he ſprung, the fplendor it juſtly derives from him.
1
I
I would
*The long obfervations made on the channel of Ofero, and this excurfion to
the mouth of the Arfa prove, that Patrizio had come to live fometime in his na-
tive country after he was far advanced in his ftudies. Pancofmias, lib 15.
+ Pancofm. lib. 21. An ftellæ aliquid agant.
In the dialogue entitled il Contarino, our Patrizio fays, that the friar Anton-
francesco Marcello Patrizio, general of his order, afterwards archbiſhop of Patrafs,
and
}
[ 496 ].
!
would think myſelf happy if the example of fo learned a coun-
trymen ſhould ſtimulate thoſe iſlanders to the love of ſtudy. The
people,
and laſtly biſhop of Cittanova, was his grandfather's brother. Now this friar, who
was agent for the city of Cherfe at Venice, and at whoſe inſtance the fenate or-
dered it to be made a walled city, as it is at prefent, is called in the records of
his country, and in the ducal letters inferted therein, F. Antonio Marcello De
Petris, from whence Petrizio and Patrizio were derived. Francesco bestows great
elogiums on this biſhop, calling him a man of profound ſcience, and admirable elo-
quence, and Palladio Fofco, and Luca Weddingo make the fame honourable mention
of him. The bishop is buried in the church of the conventual friars at Cherfo,
who have covered his ſepulchral inſcription by the baſis of an altar built a few years
ago, without even keeping a copy of it. Thus in general the friars value and re-
ſpect the learning both of the living and the dead. But to return to our Francefca
Patrizio, or de Petris. Befides his own teftimony concerning his country and
family, we find him called a noblman of Dalmatia by Annibale Romei in his dif
corfi printed in 1585 by Ziletti Gior. 1. p. 4, Giro Spontone, in his Bottigare
Dial. 4. Verona 1589. p. 11. calls him a native of Ofero in Sclavonia, which a-
grees well enough with what others have faid, as the family De Petris is one of
the most ancient noble families of Ofero.
Franceſco was born in the year 1529. At nine years of age he left the iſland,
having been probably fent to Padua for his education. He lived there efteemed
and loved by feveral illuftrious young men, one of whom was afterwards Pope
Gregory XIV. Agostino Valiero, and Scipione Gonzaga, who both became cardi-
nals, were his friends; and cardinal Girolamo della Rovere made him a prefent at
parting of a beautiful Greek copy of the diſcourſes of Hermes Tremegiſtus, which·
Patrizio published, with a tranſlation and notes, when he was in an advanced age.
About 1557 he compoſed a poem entitled l'Eridano, but the verſe of thirteen fyl-
lables, which he made ufe of, was not liked. In 1562 he publiſhed ten dialogues.
de arte oratoria; he went to Cyprus, and ftaid there fome time; I know not when
he returned to Italy, though probably, by reading his works, the time might be
found. He was at Venice in 1568, and returned to Cyprus with the archbiſhop
Primate Filippo Mocanigo, with whom he alſo came back to Italy; he laments in
feveral parts of his writings the loffes he ſuſtained in the revolutions of that king-
dom. He went from Genoa to Spain in 1574, and in 1577 was elected pro-
feffor in the univerfity of Ferrara; and the fame year made fome phyfical obfer.
vations
*
"
[ 497 ]
}
people, now full of fuperftitious prejudices, would profit by the
philofophy of the few, as is the cafe in polite cities. The com-
mon people of the city, and the peaſants of the island, and on the
contiguous rocks, have all the prejudices, foolish credulity, and
fuperftitions which might be expected among the nations from
whence they are defcended. They believe all the idle ftories
that are told about vampires, called Bilfi in their dialect. The
Sss
tales
vations in the environs of Modena. Ten years after that he was in Romagna, and
affifted with the duke Alfonfo II. d'Efte and cardinal Lancellotti at a conference con-
cerning fome differences that had arifen between Bologna and Ferrara about the
falling of the Reno into the Po. He printed his Diſcuſſioni Peripatetiche in 1581,
and in 1583 his treatife della Milizia Romana; and five years after, his Le Deche
Poetiche. Teodoro Angelucci wrote a large volume against him in favour of the
Ariftotelics, and Patrizio anſwered him in an apology directed to the famous
Cefare Cremonino in 1584. The year following he wrote in favour of Ariosto, a
gainst the partifans of Taffo; and in 1587 he had fome literary difputes with the
troubleſome pedant Mazzini, who, according to the cuſtom of his race, was the
firſt to attack him, and without caufe. Clement VIII. was his great friend
and, when a cardinal, wrote to him frequently. On being made Pope, he im-
mediately called him to Rome, and appointed him profeffor of Platonick philo-
ſophy in that univerfity. Patrizio was eſtabliſhed there in 1592, notwithſtanding
the oppofition of cardinal Bellarmine, a great protector of Ariſtotle, whom our
Patrizio had treated with little refpect in his publick lectures at Ferrara, and had
been taxed with preſumption and innovation on that account. The Scolaſtics
would probaly have hindered the publication of his Nova de Univerfis Philoſophia
by means of the inquifition, but the duke of Ferrara's protection and favour for
the author defended him. The work was printed with fome annotations and
cenfures of a certain friar Facopo da Lugo, inferted here and there at the end of
various differtations, and which ought rather to have been placed among the
Epiftolæ obfcurorum virorum. In 1594 he publiſhed at Rome two volumes in folio
of Paralleli Militari, a work much praifed by Scaliger and Salmafius, who other-
wife were very ſparing of their praifes. Several other works of the Cherfine
Philofopher are found in the libraries, and all of them give proofs of his talents
and profound knowledge. He died at Rome in 1597, the 7th of February.
[ 498 ]
1
tales concerning witches and wizards are without number among
the low people, who are fully perfuaded that feveral of both ſexes
are diſperſed among them. But thofe are prejudices common e-
nough in all countries among the poor ignorant people, and it
is only in that clafs that they are regarded at Cherfo
Concerning
[ 499 ]
* At you
+ Y
easter Concerning the land of PAGO.
Of the Situation of PAGO, with fome Geographical Remarks,
T
窄 ​1
{
1
HE ancient geographers have left us no defcription of
the ifland of Pago; though its form, extent, and rich
produce deſerved it. It is not certain that this
iſland was
meant by Pliny, under the name of Ciffa, or Giffa, as thoſe names
might equally well be applied to feveral of the neighbouring
iflands, which are now either wholly abandoned, or thinly and
wretchedly inhabited. One of the moſt confiderable of theſe
is Plavnich, which lies between the iſland of Veglia and that of
Cherfo; Parvich between Viglia and Arbe; Dolin, extending in
length nearly parallel to Arbe; Scherda, and Meon near Pago;
and Puntadura divided from the continent of Dalmatia by a
narrow fordable channel. And this fufpicion is of fo much the
more weight, becaufe, on every one of the fmall iflands juft men-
tioned, there are veftiges of buildings, infcriptions, tiles, and
hewn ftones, all which are indications of ancient Roman ha-
bitations. Among the islands mentioned by Pliny, there is
alſo one which he calls Portunata, but cannot now be identically
afcertained, though it agrees with Pago, as well as any other in
the Quarnaro. However that may be, as it is very difficult
to determine the correfpondence of names without defcription,
I ſhall content my felf with giving fome account of Pago as
it is in our days. This ifland is extended from north to fouth
over againſt maritime Croatia, or the mountain Morlacca. It is
about fifty miles long; its breadth is unequal. One particu-
lar circumstance diftinguishes it from all the other islands of
the Adriatick, and is a large internal falt water lake fifteen
S & S 2
miles
!
I 500 1
miles long from fouth to north, into which the fea enters by
a canal not above a quarter of a mile broad in fome places..
There are alfo two finaller lakes on the iſland; one near Vlaffich
abounding in fiſh, particularly eels and one near the hamlet
of Slabine.
{ }
1
}
>
Of the Climate:
The climate of the iſland of Pago, is the the fame as that
of the mountain Morlacca, and the fea coaft at the bottom of it-
The winter is dreadfully cold; and the fummer fcorching hot.
The ſtormy ſea beats furioufly againſt the rocky coaft of the
island oppofite to the mountain; and, on that fide, the heights
and fides of the hills are rendered defolate by the wind, fo
that neither wood, nor paſture, nor corn lands are found upon
them, or only in a few places; but frightful bare rocks, de-
fert and uninhabitable, cover almoſt the whole. The air is ge-
nerally darkened, by the falt mift, that is raiſed by the colli-
fion of the waves, in the narrow channel of Morlacca, altoge-
ther flanked by ſteep naked rocks. The lake itſelf is not calm
in the ftormy ſeaſon, and far from being a harbour, as might
at firſt fight be fuppofed, it is tempeftuous and impracticable.
The inhabitants of the city cannot go out of their houſes during
the violence of the wind; and are obliged to have the roofs
defended all round by large ftones. Thoſe who have been there
in the winter time, ſpeak of it as a Siberia quite covered with
fnow and ice, and always expofed to the cold north wind;
I who was there in the hot ſeaſon, thought it equal to the moſt
fcorching parts of the world. The naked rocks, which not
only form the organization, but alfo the fuperficies of almoft
all the island; the narrownefs of the vallies; the reverberation
of
1
[ 501 ]
of the water of the lake, generally quite calm in fummer, mul-
tiply the heat fo prodigiouſly among thoſe ſtones, that the vines,
which are planted all round the lake, ripen the grapes by the
beginning of Auguft; and the few other products, that grow
there, anticipate the ufual time of maturity in the fame manner.
The meteors are exceedingly irregular in the fummer time;
fudden whirlwinds are frequent, and heavy fhowers of rain,
the laft are hurtful to the inhabitants of one part of the
iſland, and favourable to the cultivation of the oppofite end.
I fhall in the fequel give fome account of various fuperftitious-
cuſtoms to which this diverfity of wants has given rife.
+
Of the Cultivation, and chief Products of the Ilands.
The banks of the interior marine lake are almoſt all cul-
tivated with vines, and particularly near the city of Pago, and
the falt pits, which are at the fouth end of the lake. The
abfolute want of wood on the iſland, is the cauſe, that a great
part of the vines are left without any fupport. Some of
them, however, are fupported by canes which are planted for
that purpoſe. The part of the island under the jurisdiction of
Pago, produces about forty thouſand barrels of good wine,
and about two thoufand of Rakia, one year with another.
The great quantityof fage and other odoriferous plants, with
which the iſland is covered, furnishes excellent food for the
bees, and the honey forms no inconfiderable branch of trade;
it is generally carried to Fuime, and fold again there as the
honey of that country. The fame paſture among thoſe barren
rocks maintains a large number of fheep and goats, and the
wool, which is very bad, and cheeſe, make a fmall article for
export. The tunny fishing at Zapka, near the extremity of
the
+
7
[ 582
]]
the marine lake, brings allò inno inconfiderable advantage when
the paffage of thofe fishes is plentiful; "but that being velty prés
carious, no calculation can be made of it. The northern part
of the ifland, called Novaglia, which depends on the govern's
ment of Arbe, is well fupplied with water, and has good paf-
tures on the low grounds, by which means its black cattle are
larger and better than on any of the neighbouring iſlands, or
of littoral Dalmatia. The produce of corn and oil is very
ſçanty, "and not enough to maintain the few inhabitants two
months.
है
•
r
1
}
The molt confiderable product of the inland is falt. In the
year 1774, when I was there, they made eight hundred thou-
fand Venetian Stavio's. Part of the faltworks belongs to the
Government, and the rest to private proprietors they are mer
liorated every year, and, for that end, the publick lends mo-
ney to thofe proprietors who want it, and, without that affift-
ance, could not make the requifite improvements. The lagune,
on which the falt works lie, is four miles fong, and about
half a mile broad. The fame fpecies of Teftacer are found here
as in the lagunes at Venice.
འན།
sig 90
1
20
A
ما
کوا
The island, as I already mentioned, has actually neither
wood to burn, nor for any other ufe, excepting the northern end
called Punta di Loni, which is abundantly fupplied with all
forts. Among the reft there are very fine roots, and trunks
of old olive trees, which would furnish excellent materials
But that part of the ifland
and the inhabitants of the
A
?
for the cabinet makers and ſculptors.
belongs to the community of Arbe;
City of Pago, and the villages depending on it, are obliged
to buy wood for their private ufe. There is, on the bank of
the
[ 503 J
the marine lake, a mine of foffil coal, which ſtill preſerve
the diftinguishable appearance of wood; but it is of fo bad
کے
a quality, that no uſe can be made of it, unleſs in a cafe of
the greateſt neceffitymach rukav
log hrog
10
K
&
i
شاد ہم
} f
*
*
*
**
4
14
Nature of the Soil and the Stones,a
R
༣ ༔
open
Bord Far
7
The foil of the iſland, that is of the land lying on the de--
clivity, and at the bottom of the hills, is very gravelly and light;
but on the northern extremity where there are plains, though
ſomewhat ſtoney, yet the land is better and ſtronger, and might
be cultivated to bear corn of all forts. The extent of this kind
of land is not large, being only that tract which lies between the
extremity of the lake and the Quarnaro, having the hills on the
right and left fide...
*
J
•
لم
{ {
a joa tuo
*
106
The hard calcarious ftone, with fragments of marine bodies,
is that which generally predominates on the iſland, and is or-
dinarily of a whitiſh colour. There are, however, ſome partial
maffes of a light blue colour, and, in fome places, whole ftrata
almoſt terreous, or perhaps fallen from the ſtate of ſtone in the
courfe of ages..
nt. A
T
{
There is alfo a great deal of fand ſtone quite analogous to
that of the iſland of Veglia near Beſca, and of the iſland of Arbe
in the adjacencies of the City. The inhabitants prefer this to
any other ſtone in the foundations of their buildings under
ground, where, as they fay, it maintains itſelf very long; but if
they ufe it in the walls expofed to the air, it moulders
ân. a fhort time, leaving large holes in the wall.
away
I faw
1.304 ]
I faw no ftrata of fine marble, though there are maffes of
breccia like that of the mountain of Arbe and of the hills of
Veglia and Cherfa. The white ftone of Punta di Loni is, how-
ever, capable of receiving a poliſh, and when only roughly hewn
gives an air of nobility to the buildings which defenves better
architecture than that uſed in thofe miferable places.
ว
Of the inhabited Places of the Ifland, hiftorical Remarks concern-
ing them, and Vestiges of Antiquity.
*
7
}
Many veftiges of ancient habitations ftill remain on the iſland
of Pago, as well as of walled places, which either have been
deſtroyed by the incurfions of enemies, or by time. Hiftorians
ſay, that the iſland was often abandoned by its inhabitants; and
indeed it is rather to be wondered at how men ever could re-
folve to fettle in fo wretched a country. The ſmall number of
inhabitants, after fo many years of peace and tranquillity under
the Venetian government, evidently proves how little the illand
is really habitable. The whole number fcarcely amounts to
three thouſand five hundred, which bears no proportion to the
extent of ground, if the naked barren hills, that cover almoſt
the whole, did not account for it. The greateſt part of this
population lives in the City of Pago, which is faid to contain
about three thouſand inhabitants. The fmall capital of a defert
iſland cannot be expected to offer much to the eyes of the curious:
and, befides, it is of recent foundation, having been built by
the Venetians in the year 1468. The plan is well underſtood,
and the ſtreets large and ftraight, which generally is not the
cafe in the other Cities of Dalmatia, Zara only excepted. The
name of Pago, is found in older writings, but then it was a
village,
By
[T ]
]
to
f
village, and fituated in an unhealthful and inconvenient ſpot,
now called Terra Vecchia, or the old town.
ง
Kifa, Keffa, or Kuffa, was the name of the capital of this
fland in the barbarous times, and probably comes from the
corruption of Giffa, or Giffa. The Venetians took it from the
Croats in the send of the 10th century, and demoliſhed it. At
that time it appears, that the fouthern part, where Pago now
• ftands, was not much inhabited. Cafimir IV. King of Croati
made himfelf mafter of it again in 1071, and divided it into two
a.
35
parts giving the northerly part, with the ruins of Keſſe, that
were ftill inhabited, to the City and Church of Arben rand
that towards the fouth, together with the villages of Pago,
Vlaffich, Murolano, &c. to the Biſhop and City of Nona. In the
beginning of the 12th century, the Dog Ordelafo Faliero,
having drove the Hungarian out of littoral Dalmatia, fetoëk
Keſſa likewife; and the Doge Sebaſtiano Ziani; in ir 194, gave
it in feod to Raggiero Morefini. At that time the community
of Zara poffeffed the foutherly part of the iſland, which had
been either ceded voluntarily, or taken by force from the Nonefi.
The Zaratimes having rebelled againſt the Venetians in the be-
ginning of the 13th century, denfolifhed the caftle of Keffa again,
and ruined it in fuch a manner, that it rofe no more, and
the rubbiſh is now hardly diſtinguiſhable. It is probable that
"the City of Keffa, and afterwards the Caftle of the fame name,
was built on the ruins of more ancient fettlements, as in the re-
cords fince the 13th-century it is called Keffa Veterana. Keffa
being deftroyed by the incurfions of the Zaratine rebels, the
Venetians fortified the village of Pop now called Terra Vec-
chia. “Theſe iſlanders continued always faithful to the Re-
T
I
}
HT
·
4
,
publick:
[ 506 ]
1
2
publick; and, on that account, were often expofed to cruel
treatment from their bad neighbours.
2
+
1 1
In 1358 Lewis King of Hungary reconquered littoral Dal-
matia, and the iflands of the Quarnaro; and the inhabitants of
Pago, falling again under the dominion of Zara, were treated
with all the feverity of wanton and cruel tyranny. The di-
freffed iſlanders had recourfe to the King, who, being convinced
of the abufe which the Zaratines had made of his donation,
fet Pago quite at liberty from their flavery; and fince that time,
the portion of the ifland, that was fubject to. Zara, had a go-
vernment apart, and the other portion having been humanely
treated by the Arbegiani, remained united to that government.
As the Paghef had now their particular governor, fo they
were defirous of having their own Biſhop alſo, that they might
have nothing to do with Zara, not even in ecclefiaftical matters;
and, by a feries of fingular circumftances, eight Bishops were
elected by that people from 1393 to 1560, but not one of them
were confecrated; fome of them died on their journey to Rome,
and the others met with unfurmountable difficulties. In the
last century they attempted again, five or fix times, to obtain
that honour, but always in vain.
*
&
!
**
The moſt confpicuous families of the City of Rago are the
Caffich, Fadrulei, Portada, Graffe, &c. There are two convents
of friars, and one of nuns; and feveral Churches, all in very
bad order, and ill ferved; at Terra Vecchia allo there is a Con-
vent of Francifcan monks, a race of men who, under various
names and difguifes, infeft every place where credulous igno-
rance can be perfuaded to maintain the idle and fuperftitious.
Out
[307]
2
***Out' of the ruins of Keſa arole the two hamlets of old and
new Novaglia, fituated in the beft part of the iſland, and moſt
convenient for trade with Dalmatia as well as Italy. I faw
there Tome fragments of Roman infcriptions of the beſt times,
which cannot be fufpected to have been tranfpotted from other
places into a Country full of ftones of its own.
A
3 N
+
な
​*
Σ
Golane and Vlaſſich are alfo poor villiages, and the inhabitants
of them, together with thofe of the two Novaglia's, scarcely a-
mount to fix hundred fouls. The dreſs of the women of Vlafich
is very curious, and more gay then that of the islanders of the
channel of Zara; but I had not time to take a drawing of it.
*
* I*
A
<
qad of stum ve Customs and Superfitions.
*
*
+
The difficulty of acceſs to the City of Page, and the ill ac-
commodation that ftrangers meet with, make it very little fre-
quented. Hence the inhabitants are as wild and unpolifhed,
as if they lay at the greateſt diſtance from the ſea, and the com-
merge of polite people. The gentry who pretend to fhew
their manners different from thofe of the vulgar are truly gro-
tefque figures, both in their dreſs, behaviour, and infolent pre-
tenfions. The ignorance of the Clergy is incredible; a prieſt
of the greateſt confequence there, and who was thought a man
of learning, did not know how Pago was called in Latin.
1
The greateſt part of the people of Pago live by working in
the falt pits, and have a comfortable ſubſiſtence regularly paid by
the Government; it is therefore a very important circumſtance
for the inhabitants of the City to have a dry fummer; and hence
Ttt 2
the
[ 150829
}
晶​瓷
​the ignorant vulgar look upon rain as a mifchief brought upon
the country by the force of witchcraft. In confequence of this
idea, they elect a friar to exorcife the meteors, and keep the rain
off the iſland., „If notwithstanding the poor friar's endeavours,
the fummer happens to be rainy, he lofes his reputation, and
his bread; but, if two or three dry feafons follow fucceffively,
he meets with great reverence and advantage.
£.
He
At Novaglia, where they have a different intereft from that
of the falt pits, they make ufe of as ridiculous means to obtain
ram as their neighbours do to have dry weather. There are
numberlefs other fuperftitious cuſtoms among thofe poor igno-
rant iflanders, which are chiefly cultivated and maintained by
the friars for their own intereft, and fometimes for more èri-
minal ends; but as little good can be propofed by expofing
the folly of the people, or the knavery of the monks, I fhall
let them alone as they are)
APPENDIX
APPENDIX
1
[ 013
21
T
ta
4 y q
L. It
t
T..O.
THE
1
of w
OBSERVATIONS ON CHERSO AND OSERO;
del to colla yas
A
GIVING - SOME ACCOUNT OF LITTORAL CROATIA, THE
ISLANDS OF PAGO AND VEGLIA, &c.
wollag
*
ร
}
1
❤
IN THREE LETTERS FROM THE ABBE' FORTIS TO JOHN Strange,
*
#
Efq. His
- HIS BRITANNICK MAJESTY'S MINISTER AT VENICE.
di eterik mini
が
​HE unlucky accident that, in 1774, was the caufe of
hy return from Dalmatial much againſt my will, gave
me an opportunity of viſiting the islands of the Quarnaro, and
of making fomedObfervations on the littoral coaſts of that gulf,
which, though long, and unconnected, I am now to communi-
cate to your Excellency, fuch as they are.
e calls. O sdt ei yuzca s... sgsoyasi li
busThe littoral parts of the Quarnars, belonging to the Repub-
lick of Venice, reach but little beyond Fianona, the ancient
Flanona of the Geographers, which gave the name of Sinus Fla-
naticus to the adjacent fea, and which now is reduced to a mi-
ferable condition The Houſes of Auſtria is fovereign o the
interior coaſty from Berfen as far as Lücove, which tract of coun-
Vtry is called Littoral Croazia. The fea, that baths this coaſt,
is called the channel of Morlacca, and takes the denomination
from the mountains that rife above it.
"ceedingly tempetuous, through the violence of the boreal winds,
*which often, on a fudden, put it in dreadful agitation, raifing
30. 17 no booft was
Dvor wal I stood
grafen
7
+
This channel is ex-
the
R
-
1
A
[ 510 ]
اله
the waves to a terrible height, and darkening the air by, the
mift of the fea water elevated and difperfed, in minute particles,
by the repercuffion of the many rocks and craggy iſlands, which
obftruét and embarrals the channel. Three principal Cities
are fituated on that rough coaft, befides many places of lefs
importance, in each of which a military Officer prefides for the
adminiſtration of justice. The first of thefe Cities, within
the channel, is Fiume; in former times called S. Vite,
and takes its name from a small river that rifes under the
mountain not far diftant, and falls into the fea, where it forms
the harbour. The number of inhabitants in this City
is from fifteen to fixteen thousand. The fuburbs are large,
and well builts and the houſes are furniſhed in a good taffe,
which could hardly be expected in fo detached and unpleasant
a fituation. The trade of Fiume is confiderable, and it is the
Staple for the commodities of the Banato of Temefwar. It has
manufactures of linnen, glafs &c. and large works for refining
fugar. The natural language of the country is. the Croatian
but all the genteel people of both fexes fpeak good Italian, and
imitate the Tuſcan manner, for which they are certainly much
more to be commended then we who mutilate our beautiful
language, and ridicule any one who endeavours to ſpeak it well,
if not born in Tufcany. The manners of the Fiumans are mild,
and their fociety cheatful, though tempered with moderation.
Learning and the Sciences are more cultivated there than in any
of the neighbouring towns on that coaft; and the inhabitants
of the Venetian iſlands, who chufe to give their children a good
education, fend them to the publick ſchools erected and maint
tained at Fiume by the munificence of the Sovereign. I cannot
pofitively determine if the ancient Tarfatica ftood on the fpot
which the City of Fiume now occupies; becauſe I ſaw no veſtiges
*
}
OF
1
I sve I
S
of good antiquity there, and could not learn whether the an-
cient arch ftill exifted, which I found indicated in the MSS.
of the late General Count Marfigli, which are preſerved at
Bologna in the library dell Iftituto founded by him.
As
ン
​₹
}
The contiguous village, on the left fide of the river, retains
fill the name of Terfatz, as well as the hill that ſtands imme-
diately above it, to the top of which you afcend by 414 very irre-
gular steps. This. hill is revered in thoſe parts, on account
of the tradition, believed by the devout Croats, Iftrians, and
neighbouring iſlanders, that the Holy Houſe was ſet down there
by the Angels on its being tranſported from Bethlem, and
that it remained on the top of that hill three years and ſeven
months, before it proceded on its voyage to Loretto. Before
I went to Fiume, I read a curious book, which I happened to
find at Chero, intitled Hiftoricus progreſſus, Mariani triumphi, &c.
wrote by Father Pafconi, a Francifcan friar. He begins the
4th chapter of his little work by a recital of all the figns of
peculiar favour fhewn by God to the mountains in preference
to the plains. This is a chapter of great confolation to a na-
turalift. Lot ſaved himſelf from the fire of Sodom on a moun-
tain. God appeared to Mofes on Horeb; and gave him the
Law on Sinai: Jefus prayed on the top of a mountain ; His
transfiguration happened on another; He dined on a third;
He begun the Paffion on mount Olivet; and finiſhed it on Gol-
gotha. The Holy Virgin had alſo the fame partiality; In
montana perrexit; The favoured the Carmelites, who built a
little chapel in honour of her on, mount Carmel, after Her
affumption, &c. All theſe are highly honoured mountains no
doubt; but that of Terfatz is the nobleft of them all, "having
"been chofen and predeftinated, by the ineffable Divine Provi-
"dence,
*
-
[ 502 ]
"dence, to bear upon its top for the Spans ofthree years and
faven months, the most faered hople in which the Word
was made fleth, and, which was rescued from the hands of
the infidels and transported tax Terſatzkidays this
legend is not believed, nor maintained even at Rome; but the.
Croats are two hundred years behind us in theſe matters In
the fame book are recorded many miracles wrought at Terfatze
fame,
though after all, the departure of the Houfe does not look like
wit
2S
10 msa SCH
I
JI SVOCS vistein
8 basale Dog doidw to doi ed:
cof
The author never forgets to take notice, after
a token of love.
every miracle, of the
det blue
the Church
bor.201, 21
gratitude of the faithful to
web, adi ya Laysited
of Terſatz, which is officiated by friars of his order. It is viual
Sri Jepit 21gbacijų gaino dativa
enough for the devotees of that neighbourhood to make vows
(coldird
τ
I
of ſtaying a whole day in the Church of the Madonna of Terlatz
revet for 27
:
SH
..
all
1
1) 3
dano & FLOT
$
bo
ごはら ​il ¿
Wet 31 201
1 412. aa botel de
100
Juls
Tutadt 10, cet. sdt no high mer 1
and they even dine there; nay the fimple inhabitants of both
of all no boletora, d
fexes fometimes vow to pals fix or eight nights in the Church
21 beg.99
ME of thew
a practice truly ſcandalous, and unworthy of the refpect due to
surend zwar of boltitni, fed is Lat
places fet apart for publick worthip. Among other curiofities,
Amodio I. reda 1.vd
which the friars on the top of the hill fhow with bold impofture,
is a pretended notorial act of the arrival, and departure of the
holy houfe, and a little bell, which the above mentioned writer
fays, ad coercendas areas tempeflates, experientia tefte, mirum in mo-
dum conducit. The architecture of the Church of Terfatz is
boo CIN
quite vulgar
vulgar, neither has it any good fculpture or painting.
The ftone, of which the hill is compofed, is of the ordinary
marble that forms the organization of the Iftrian, and littoral
Dalmatian mountains. Five
Five miles to the eastward of Fiume lies
Parte Re, a large fea lake, furrounded by rocky mountains, and
defended from the winds, but ſubject to a double inconvenience
for ſhipping; the entrance.being very difficult in the fix winter
months, and the egrefs not much easier in the fummer. The
A
$
>
no3
2.00
10
fte
of be
q.s ro W
Bat muned SH
GH SC
SC 1 .BAJOR
INPY190 Amginent
Koпed in 19815 SUR
Das Asan ITA 900
Jai cái ja Jstanifobɔrq bas neled
1d0cb
Emperor
Bosa
[ 513 ]
掌
​}
habitable, on account of the
+
Emperor Charles VI. fpent immenfe fums in fortifying and beau-
tifying Porto Re; but the event proved that he had been ill ad-
vifed. The lake is oblong; and at the two extremities are two
Caſtles, the one called Buccaria, and the other Buccarizza, where
they make a vaſt quantity of pipe ftaves, and carry on no in-
confiderable trade in that article, as almoſt all the places on the
Adriatick are furniſhed from thence. Further up the channel,
between the iſland of Veglia and the Continent, which is ſcarcely
a quarter of a mile broad, and, in the narrowest part, perhaps
not half fo much, lies the little ifland of S. Marco, and the
fmall rock called Maltempo, where formerly there was a fort be-
longing to the Venetians, who ftill continue to pay a titular
Governor, though the fort has lain in ruins many years. The
Auftrian coaſt thereabouts is ill peopled, and, indeed, ſcarcely
afperity and naked barrennefs of
the mountain. The caftle of Novi is however of fome confe-
quence; it lies between Fiume and Segna, and the Bishop of the
laft mentioned place, a hofpitable and polite Prelate, refides al-
moft conftantly there. Segna, a City but too famous in the hif-
tory of the Republick of Venice, which was obliged to make
formal war againſt it, and ſuffered cruel loffes in its maritime
ſtates of Iftria and Dalmatia, for a very long time, without being
able to put a stop to them, was an object of curiofity for a Vene-
tian traveller. I was defirous of knowing on the fpot the de-
ſcendants of thoſe fierce Ufcocchi, who where equally admired
for their courage, and deteſted for their cruelty. Minuccio Mi-
nucci wrote a hiftory of them; and the celebrated F. Paolo
Sarpi did the fame fome years after. I could have wifhed alfo
to have ſeen their hiſtory written by one of themfeves; but the
Ufcocchi fought valiantly, and attended to the fale of their prizes
Uuu
and
[ 54 T
{
t
+
>
'
and booty, not to writing hiftories. The City of Segna is ill
built, worfe paved, and weakly fortified. Is lies on the brink
of the ſea, on a foundation of concreted gravel, at the mouth
of a very narrow valley furrounded by horrid marble hills. The
ground, at prefent, occupied by Segna, fhews manifeftly that its
formation is of no old date, and the torrent, that fometimes inun--
dates and threatens ruin to the City, through the middle of
which it runs into the fea, bringing down with it gravel of the
fame kind as that juſt mentioned, and fometimes fcattering it.
over the contiguous cultivated fields, give fufficient reafon to
fuppofe, that the prudent ancients never planted a Colony infuch:
a difmal fituation. It is probable that Senia ftood almoft three-
miles further up the valley, where there are ftill the veftiges.
of ancient habitations, and monuments of the funeral fuperfti--
tion of the Gentiles. The fea, in all appearance, covered the
bottom of the valley, as far up as the City, which ſtood on the:
fide of the hill, and formed a tolerable good harbour. After
wards, the woods being extirpated to make room for cultivation,
the violence of the eventual waters naturally augmented, and.
falling down the fides of the craggy naked marble mountains,.
brake off, and tumbled down fuch a quantity of ftones,, as was
fufficient to fill up the narrow bay, and alfo to form a kind of
headland that juts out beyond the foot of the hills. Befides,.
the City of Segna had no walls before the 15th century, which
is a further confirmation that it does not ftand where the ancient.
Senia did. The wind coming from the bare mountains blow fo
furiouſly in that narrow hollow, that fometimes in winter one.
cannot go out of doors without danger, and without the City, it is
much worſe. It happens frequently that children and weak peo--
ple walking not only in the market place, where indeed no.
2
r
}
+
·
prudent
1
[ 515 ]
2
HO
ず
​V
prudent perfon ventures at fuch times, but also through nar-
row winding lanes, are lifted up from the ground and daſhed
against the walls; and when indifpenfable neceffity obliges one
to go to the bafon where the fhipping lies, though creeping on
hands and feet, he is. fometimes whirled about like a ftraw by
the impetuofity of the wind. Horfes loaded with falt are fre-
quently thrown, down in the market place of Segna; and the
roofs of the houses, though covered with very heavy ftones,
are carried away. The fhips belonging to, or trading with Seg-
na; endeavour to take refuge in the ports of the iſland of Arbe,
before the winter ftorms comes on, but when any happen to
be in the harbour in theſe hurricanes, they run the greateſt riſk
of being loft, and never eſcape without damage, as the ſeamen
can be of no affiſtance, and are forced to keep under deck. In
fuch circumſtances, the proprietors of fhips give thirty and
fometimes forty fequins to the poor mariners of the place to
go and make faſt a rope at the riſk of their life. The fea in
the channel of the mouth of Segna oppofite to the valley, is hard-
ly ever calm. Yet notwithſtanding all theſe diſaſters, the in-
habitants of Segna, in the beginning of this age, had fifty mer-
chant ſhips at fea; they were rich by a free commerce, export-
ing the corn, wool, wax, honey, tar, and iron of the Turkiſh.
ſtate, on which they border; and the timber they cut freely in
the vaſt ancient foreſt of Velebich; and they imported, befides
other articles of merchandiſe, falt, oil, and wine to ſupply
many
the inward provinces. But the many loffes of fhipping, and the
exceffive charges they were often obliged to be at, on account of
their inconvenient fituation, diſconcerted and diſcouraged their
navigation; and, at prefent, Segna has but a very ſmall number
of ſhips belonging to it. Another fatal blow was given to
Uuu 2
that
( 516 )
* { ?
+
that City by the regulation made by the Court of Vienna în
1741, by which it was deprived of fixty thouſand florins a year
in money, and forty thouſand ells of cloth, and twenty thoufand
meaſures of grain, which the Emperor gave yearly to the inha-
bitants of Segna, as being a warlike people, and a bulwark a-
gainst the Turks on that fide. In reality, after the Auſtrians
took the County of Lika, from the Turks, and formed all the
inhabitants into Militia, Segna is become a place of no impor-
tance. The laft, and perhaps the greatest misfortune of the
Segnans, were the publick farms, introduced, not long fince, for
the benefit of the Imperial Treafury, which obftruct both the
active and paffive commerce. Theſe farms are extended nor
only to wood for daily ufe, but even to firewood. The military
government of Lika always oppofes the commercial views of
Segna, and even diftreffes it in many refpects, particularly by
hindering the tranſportation of victuals from the back Country.
The ftoney lands about Segna fcarcely produce, with much labour,.
fufficient provifion for the City two months of the year; and
there is fo great ſcarcity of water, that none good, or fit to drink,
is to be found nearer than the ſpring of Kraglieviza twelve miles
from the City, all in the neighbourhood being brackish and.
unwholefome.
The City of Segna is now but thinly peopled, the number of
its inhabitants not amounting to feven thoufand; yet notwith-
ſtanding that, and all its other diſadvantages, the people have a
politeness of manners that is not to be met with in any other
place of the Auftrian coaft, nor even among the Venetian ſub-
jects of thoſe parts. The real character of the Segnans is, how-
ever, fufpected to refemble that of their forefathers in more
than
[ 517 ]
1
than one bad quality. The Clergy there in general give no
good example to the people, though it must be confeffèd fome
of them are men of probity and learning. The ftory of their
Biſhop Chiclich does them great dishonour. That prelate was learn-
ed, lively, hofpitable, and in credit at court; he was a native of
Segna, but well educated. In the courſe of his duty as Biſhop,
he repeatedly admoniſhed an Ecclefiaftick, who lived publickly
in concubinage; this man was powerful. The Bishop, at the
age of ſeventy was accufed of whoredom, magick and hereſy.
The Court of Vienna abandoned him to Rome.; Rome put an
end to his life, and cauſe, no body knows how; and his calum-.
niaters triumphed. This detail of this affair is hocking. The
people of Segnia are fuperftitious, and at the fame time debauched.
Even the richest of them are flaves to the friars, and have their
chambers furniſhed with that paper trumpery which the Gene--
rals and Provincials of the regular Clergy diftribute to their
devotees, entitling them to the fame rights in Paradife which
their cloiſtered brethren have. In confequence of this monaftick
influence, learning flourishes not at Segna. The women of
this City are thought rather too much inclined to gallantry;
they have an eaſy air, that does not feem Croatian. Hence amo-
rous adventures are 'frequent, and fometimes attended with dif
agreeable confequences. The Biſhop, and the ſuperiors of Con-
vents, who formed a Court of juſtice to which thoſe matters de-
volved, made a decree, a few years ago, that if an unmarried
woman has a child by her lover, the cannot fue him before the
judge, either for marriage or fortune. From this cruel decree
a worſe corruption of morals is derived, and many unhappy
young women are every year facrificed to infamy, without reme-
dy; an inhumane and fcandalous babarity. Though the
principal
[ 518 ]
principal families of Segna are defcended from the Ufcocchi, who
were actually pirates, yet they ſtand much on the punctilio of
nobility. An apothecary, who had the vanity, to put the article
De before his furname in a certain infcription, was acufed de
crimine falfi, and it coft him five hundred florins to defend him-
felf, befides the lofs of the De, his claim to nobility.
*
Among the customs of the Segnans (which are a mixture of
Morlacco, German, and Italian) one is ſomewhat fingular, re-
lative to the dead. All the relations and friends of the fa-
mily go to kifs the corpfe, by way of taking leave, before
burial. Each of them uncovers the face, over which a hand-
kerchief is ſpread, more or lefs rich, according to the family;
having kiſsed the dead perfon, every one throws another hand-
kerchief over the face; all which remain to the heirs, and fome-
times there are twenty, thirty, and more at this ceremony. Some
throw all theſe handkerchiefs into the grave with the corpfe; and
this, in former times, was the general cuſtom; but then they
were rich. This ſeems to have been brought into ufe as a fub-
ſtitute for the ancient vafi lachrimatorii. There is weeping and
howling for the dead according to ancient cuftom; but if the
heirs weep more than with us, the prieſts have much more
cauſe to laugh than ours. The burial of a noble perfon ruins
the family. Notwithstanding the City is impoverihed, this
extravagance continues; the burial of a perfon of any fafhion
cofts at leaſt two hundred Ducats, which is a great deal for a
ſmall poor town.
The Church of Segna is officiated partly in Glagolitic Illyrian,
and partly in Latin. In the 16th century there was a Glagolitic
printing
[ 519 ]
1
1
}
printing prefs at at Segna: but after that time the Venetians
burnt the place, put the inhabitants to death, or made them fly
elſewhere, and every thing was loft. I could not find a ſingle
'book printed there; nor indeed did I meet with any perſon who
knew there ever had been a printing houfe. There is a curious.
original manufcript preferved at Segna concerning the leagues
of the Knezovi of the mountain, or the Morlacchi Chiefs, or
Counts, with their neighbours the Segnans againſt the Vene-
tians. The inhabitants of the mountain now a days are very
different from what they were then. They call themfelves Buni-
evci, becauſe they came from the territory of Buniar in Boffina.
They are fo oppreffed and ill treated, that they are often forced
to fly from home to get a living any where. It has always
been the fate of this Coaſt to be ſubjected to a heavy yoke;
and the inhabitants have frequently emigrated out of defpair. In
the time of Maximilian II. many of them removed into Hungary,
where their defcendants ftill live; and many families alfo went
to ſettle in Abbruzzo, about the mountain of Majella, who ftill
maintain themſelves there in a good condition. Theſe emi-
grations opened to the Auftrians the conqueft of Lika not an
age ago. That Bugnevaz reckons himſelf happy, who has a
provifion of potatoes to feed on, and who does not fee his
own oxen fall down, through fatigue and want of food, in
the publick ſervice. But I fhall, in another letter, fpeak more
at large of the condition of this wretched country; and fhall
conclude this by affuring your Excellency, that I faw, in the
ſtreets of Segna, a woman actually become frantick.through hun-
ger, having had no relief the whole day; and I underſtood,
that theſe poor mountaineers are reduced, almost every winter,
to grind the tops of wild cardi, by them. called bumbreci, and
mixing.
}
[520]
mixing it with bran, or bad rye meat, make a bitter bread, to
fupport their miſerable life.
k
LETTER II.
Of the Littoral Part of the Mountain MORLACCA, of LIKA,
and the Iſland of PAGO..
THE coaft of the mountain Morlacca, from Segna to the Auſtri-
T
an confine, near Lucovo, and further inward, in the channel
of Obroazzo, as far as the mouth of the river Zermagna, the
Tedanius of the ancients, is a tract of country for the moſt part
rough, craggy, woody, and incapable of cultivation; inhabited
by poor people, who almoſt all lead a paftoral life. In ancient
times, there were feveral cities mentioned by geographers; and
Pliny in particular takes notice of Jofpica or Lopfica, Orthepula,
and Vegium. In our times, all that coaft is very thinly inhabit-
ed, and the places hardly deferve to be mentioned, Carlobago
alone excepted. S. Giorgio, Lucovaz, and Jablanaz,, are miferable
hamlets, where, in times paft, the facility of trading in timber
brought ſeveral families that now languiſh in mifery and oppref-
fion, fince the court of Vienna has deprived them of that means
of fubfiftence. The few ftoney fields that are cultivated near
the habitations, hardly yield double the feed. Yet, at Jablanaz,
I faw good grapes and figs, and a fpecimen of very fine faffron,
belonging to the Signori Streglianazich, an ancient and noble
family of the Ufcocchi, who, having loft the old warlike fierce-
nefs, preferves the fentiments of cordial hofpitality. Jablanaz
has a very ſmall harbour, and can only contain a few barks of
little burden; in the middle times it was fortified with lateral
towers.
[ 521 ]
1
towers. The hill above Jablanaz is of hard limeftone; there
is alfo fome marble of a pale red, and breccia, that, near the ſea,
is fpungy; but compact, where the falt water does not reach.
The Bunievei, or Catholick Morlacchi of thefe parts, ufe to throw
a great quantity of honey into the coffins of their dead. The
fpirit of farming is fo well eſtabliſhed at Vienna, that, for the
annual contribution of four florins, the commanding officer at
Jablanaz has an exclufive right of hunting in all that district,
which is about forty miles round. The fame officer adminifters
juſtice, though by no means learned in the law, and hence the
law fuits are decided, and delinquents are puniſhed in a very
fummary and military way.
*
Carlobago is a town that contains not above a thouſand inha-
bitants, without walls or fortifications, excepting an infignifi-
cant ſquare tower. Notwithſtanding the Auftrian government
gives it the title of city. It is fituated on the fea fide, at the
foot of a very craggy naked mountain, and oppofite to the iſland
of Pago, which is alfo on that fide, rocky, without harbours,
barren, and quite bare of trees or grafs. The breadth of the
channel is not above two miles, yet it is fometimes impaffable
for ſeveral days fucceffively, on account of the violence of the
wind. In former times, there was a caſtle called Scriffa, where
Carlobago now ftands; it belonged to the Torquati, Counts of
Corbavia, who kept a Viſcount in it; and when that family was
extinct, it became one of the ſtrong places of the Ufcocchi, and
was in 1616 burnt, and demoliſhed from the foundations, by
the Venetians, who did not care to keep poffeffion of that horrid
country to which nature has denied even water to drink. Yet
in fpite of the diſadvantages of fituation, the ruins of Scriffa aroſe
again, being found the moſt convenient place to export the com-
X X X
modities
[522]
ร
modities of Lika, which lies directly on the other fide of the
mountain Morlacca, forming a part of Mediterranean Croatia.
From the beginning of this century, till of late, Carlobago-
carried on no inconfiderable trade: but the diffentions be--
tween the military and commercial intereft, the first of which
feems now in greater favour at the court of Vienna than the
fecond, which, however, triumphed under the laft Emperor,
have reduced the country, as well as all the reft of the Auftrian-
coaft, to a ſtate of increaſing mifery. The trade of the Carlo-
bagians confiſts chiefly in wood. They have not a bit of ground
fit for vines or corn; their territory is altogether ftoney; and be--
fides, the rigid temperature of the air renders it unfit for culti-
vation. In confequence of theſe natural diſadvantages, they are
obliged to bring every thing they want from other parts. Their
wine and oil are brought from Dalmatia, and the Venetian
islands; they ought to have their corn from the internal parts
of the country, but the military government of Lika feems to
make a maxim of ftarving them. The prefent Emprefs Queen
cauſed a road to be made from Carlobago to Lika, but it was ex-
ceedingly ill executed, and is very different from the other Auf-
trian roads. It is impracticable for carriages, and bad enough.
on horſeback, amidſt dreadful rocks, and thick woods.
1
The character of the Carlobagians feems much to refemble that
of their progenitors the Ufcocchi; but not being able to exercife
piracy freely, they rob and ſteal every thing they can, wherever
they come. Notwithſtanding their poverty, both men and wo-
men have ſuch an averfion to dependance, that no fervants can
be found there; and rather than eat the bread of others, they
content themſelves to carry to Gopich in Lika, fruit, fiſh, and
other ſmall things, which they buy on the coaft, or the neigh-
bouring
}
·
T 523 1
1
bouring iflands, and to live on the fmall profit they can make.
The people have all the Sclavonian fuperftitions, as well as the
German, and a convent of fat Capuchins, planted on the leaſt
bad fpot near the town, contributes to maintain and multiply
them. The prieſts, for example, go about at the feſtival of
Epiphany, to bleſs the houſes, and write on all the doors of
the chambers, the current year, and the initial letters of the
names of the three wife men of the Eaft, thus, 17ĠMB76;
to which letters they aſcribe many virtues. The writing is
made, with chalk, and the inhabitants are careful not to efface it,
till the time of renewing it returns. The men of Carlobago
wear the Hungarian drefs, and the women dreſs like thofe of
Segna.
I did not proceed far enough along this coaft to be able to dir-
cover veftiges (if there are any) of the above mentioned ancient
cities of Japidia, and therefore can fay nothing about them.
Neither did vifit the internal parts of Lika; but I can add
ſomething relative to its phyſical and political conftitution, by
information from credible perfons.
That ſmall province fituated among the mountains, has never
been examined by any naturalift or antiquary; yet, by what I
could underſtand, both would find matter for their reſpective
obfervation. The whole county is furrounded by very high
mountains, whereof a diramation, called Sridyna gorra, feparates
it from Gorbavia. On the north, it borders with part of Tur-
key, on the caft, with Venetian Morlacchia, and is feparated
from the fea by the Bebian Alps, called Velebich, by the people
of the country. I am inclined to believe, that the low part of
the great valley of Lika, reſembles the diſtrict of Knin, which
X X X 2
is
1
[ 524 ]
is fcattered with little vulcanic hills and eminences.
*
*
pro-
It lofes itſelf in a great
But I cam
only give this as my opinion, founded on the reports of people
not fufficient judges of the difference between one hill and ano-
ther. The river that traverfes Lika, bears the name of the
vince, and produces excellent trouts. It is not navigable, on
account of the many precipices in it.
whirlpool at Koffinie, and runs into the fea from under the lit-
toral Bebian Alps. All the other fmaller ftreams of thofe parts
do the fame; and hence it happens, that large freſh water fub-
marine fprings are frequently met with along the coaft, to
which the fiſhes refört in prodigious numbers. One of thefe
fprings is feen near S. Georgio, one in the harbour of Carlobago, one
near Starigrad, &c. In like manner the ſmall river anciently called
Zlatieza by the inhabitants, which now goes by the name of the
valley Korenitza, in Corbavia, iffues out of one hill, and, after
a courfe of five or fix miles, lofes itſelf under another. In the
valley of Korenitza are feen the ruins of an ancient city, from
which Bela IV. fled, when purfued by the Tartars. In the
two counties of Lika and Corbavid, there still remain diftinguiſh-
able veftiges of forty-eight walled places, the greateſt part of
which probably belonged to petty lords of the low times: and.
there is alfo to be feen fome grand remains of a Roman way,
which, croffing over theſe provinces, led to Salona: Near Pe-
ruſſich the road is quite entire, and there are alſo ſome inſcrip-
tions; the place is called Quarte: No doubt there are alſo vef-
tiges of the ancient mines, as there is a place; near the Turkiſh
confines, that ſtill goes by the name of Rudarnizza, which fig-
nifies "the country of mines." This conjecture becomes more
probable, fince we know, that, near the triple confine between
the Turks, Auftrians and Venetians, there certainly were metal-
L
1
liek
[ 525 ]
$
+
lick veins formerly. The Likans pretend, that are there alfo
mines at Ternovaez; but they know not of what metal.
The air of Lika is exceffively cold; the fnow remains almoft
every where till the month of June, and in fome of the deep
hollows, where the rays of the fun do not reach, it never melts.
Thunder and lightning are very frequent even in winter; but
the fummer hail feldom hurts thofe parts being moftly woody.
The foil is light and weak; the corn feldom comes to its full
maturity, and renders a very fmall increaſe, unleſs when left
fallow for fome years, and well manured. In Corbavia,, wheat
and all other kinds of grain anſwer much better. The Likans
generally fow millet, barley and oats, and rarely uſe any other
grain. Their agriculture is quite barbarous; they manure their
corn ground, by keeping their cattle on it in the night, and
when they think one field fufficiently manured, they move them
to another. They plow their land extremely ill, and are as ig-
norant and careleſs in every other part of huſbandry.. The Cor--
bavians are better huſbandmen.. They have two kinds of wheat;
the one called Ozimnicza, which they fow in autumn, and the
other, called Farieza, they fow in March and April, and it
ripens as ſoon as the other.. They fay, if theſe two ſorts of
wheat were fown out of their proper feafon, they would not
The climate both of Lika and Corbavia is too rigid for
grow.
the vine. The chief article of food in that country is falted
cabbage, and it is one of the principal objects of their cultiva-
tion. They fow the cabbages in the fpring, and tranfplant
them in June, and before winter. they become large and hard.
The Likans and Corbavians cut them ſmall, and lay them in
tubs, ſprinkling ſalt between each layer. That which they in-
tend to preferve for the following fummer is carefully preffed
+
ཝཱ
down,
[ 526 ]
down, and then they throw fome meaſures of oats above it în
the fame veffel, which forms a cruft, and ſometimes begins to
grow. In this manner they may be preferved two years. The
Venetian Morlacchi do not prepare their cabbage in this manner,
they only let them ferment and grow four in water, and thus
they eat them the whole year round. Since the laft war with
the king of Pruffia, the Likans and Corbavians have introduced
the culture of potatoes, by them called krumpir, and they fuc-
ceed extremely well.
The country of Lika was once in much better circumftances
than it is at prefent; the paffage from the Ottoman to the Auf-
trian yoke, brought along with it a change of conftitution,
which reduced the inhabitants to the moft miferable condition.
They have loft, without any exception, the right of property of
land; that is diſtributed among the foldiers, and on the death
of a ſoldier, his reſpective portion returns to the fovereign. If
he happens to leave a family, a mother, a widow, children,
all thoſe wretched victims are obliged to leave their habitation,
and to beg their bread elſewhere. The thepherds, and proprie-
tors of flocks and herbs, are equally wretched; they are not at
liberty to fell their cattle, when, or how they pleafe, but muft
depend on the will of the officer quartered in their diſtrict. For
the moſt part the cattle are taken, and paid for in the military
way, that is to fay, for the half of what they are worth. The
cane is made uſe of on thofe wretches for the moft trifling
cauſes, and as they know it, they often fly into the Turkish
territory, where they are lefs cruelly treated. At Carlobago,
where the fame kind of military juftice is in ufe, I have feen
fuch inftances of inhumanity, as are too fhocking to be related.
Nor are thofe poor people allowed the wretched confolation of
complaining,
[ 527 }
complaining, the ſmalleſt complaint is called fedition, and
niſhed with barbarous ſeverity.
$
pu-
Oppoſite to the mountain Morlacca lies the iſland of Pago,
about thirty miles in length: it was, probably, known by the
ancients under the name of Portunata. This ifland encloſes
among its rocks a fait water lake ten miles in length, where a
vast quantity of falt is made; it is frequented by the tunny fish,
which, when once in it, cannot return again to the fea. The
figure of this ifland is remarkably irregular; its breadth is in no
proportion to its length, and one of the extremities called Pun-
ta di Loni is above ten miles long, and lefs than one broad.
Almoſt all the circumference is difmal, without trees, or any
kind of visible plants or grafs, fteep, craggy and uninhabited.
When I entered the lake, through the channel that communi-
cates with the fea, I could fee nothing on the right and left
hand, but bare hanging rocks, ſo disfigured on the outfide by the
violent percuffion of the waves, that the ftratification was hardly
diſtinguiſhable. In general, the ftone of the island is of the
fame kind as the Iftrian, or breccia, and befides, there are large
ftrata of blue and yellowish fandftone. The channel, or inward
bay of Pago is not a harbour; on the contrary, it is a very dan-
gerous ftation, and even inacceffible in winter, when the boreal
wind blows with fuch fury, that the inhabitants of the town
dare not ſtir out of their houfes, and much lefs the few that
are ſcatt、red over the country. The fky appears always cloudy
in that feafon, by the thick miſt that riſes from the repercuffion
of the waves on that long chain of rough and hollow rocks.
The town of Pago, built by the Venetians about three hun-
dred years ago, contains upwards of two thouſand inhabitants,
and
[ 528 ]
and all the reſt of the iſland ſcarcely nine hundred; a fmail
number indeed, yet it may be reckoned large, confidering the
unconfortable and difmal fituation. They cultivate neither corn
nor oil on this ifland; but it produces plenty of wine, and an
immenfe quantity of falt; the other products are wool, honey,
and a little falt fish. The quantity of wine amounts annually,
on a medium, to forty thouſand Venetian barrels; and, from
the huſks, they diftill two thouſand barrels of rakia or brandy.
The falt, in 1663, amounted to eight hundred thouſand Vene-
tian Stare. The falt works are well contrived, and well kept,
they extend along a fhallow pool, which forms the eastern ex-
tremity of the lake within, for four miles in length, and about
half a mile in breadth. On the fides of this fen, the beſt. part
of the vines lie; but the upper part of the hills, on each fide,
is altogether naked and barren; there is not even a fufficiency
of fire-wood, and the inhabitants are obliged to provide them-
felves elſewhere. The foil at the foot of the hills, where the
vines are planted, is full of gravel and ſmall ſtones; and hence
the wine is of good quality. The air is not unhealthful, not-
withſtanding the vicinity of the ſalt pits; but the frequent high
winds carry off the noxious exhalations.
The manners of the inhabitants of Pago are very unpoliſhed,
and ſuperſtition reigns among them. The fmall town has two
convents of friars, and one of nuns within the walls, and, at a
little diſtance, there is a fourth. In the convent of the Dome-
nicians, one of the friars is elected by the people, to the office
of exorcifing the ftorms, and of keeping the island clear of fum-
mer rains, which damage the falt works, and of hail, which
deſtroys the vines. The good friar had executed his office,
to general fatisfaction, for two years, when I was there; and,
of
[ 529 ]
of confequence, was held in high veneration, and collected very
plentiful contributions from the people.
7
found not a fingle medal, nor infcription, nor MS. or a man
of good fenfe in all that town; every body is interefled in the
falt pits, and whoever talks not of falt is not regarded.
鲶
​2
•
They pretend that there was an ancient city on the ſpot now
called Terra Vechia; where there is a convent of friars; I went
thither, but had not the good fortune to difcover any thing like
the remains of antiquity.
7
$
They ſay that this ifland has been abandoned more than once;
and indeed it is rather to be wondered at, that it is inhabited at
all; 'the interefting object of the falt pits being the only motive
that can induce people to live in ſuch a diſmal place.
し
​At the end of the Valley, oppofite to the falt pits, and ten
miles diſtant from the town of Pago, there is a tract of land not
entirely bad. There the caftle of Keſa veterana ftood, whereof
mention is often made in the records of the low times; and
probably not far from thence, further up, ftood Gila; as fome
pieces of ancient marble, infcriptions, and coins are found
thereabouts. That part of the iſland is under the jurifdiction of
Arbe; there is fome corn land, and people in proportion, and
a large fpring of excellent water, whereby the ſheep and oxen
of that diſtrict are better and larger than in any of the other
islands of the Quarnaro. The names of Novaglia vecchia, and
Novaglia nuova, which the two villages go by, indicate a- Latin
origin.
Y y y
There
[ 530 }
There are about fix hundred inhabitants in that diſtrict. In
paſt times, the fpiritual intereſt of theſe people was directed by
Illyrian Glagolite prieſts, who, to fay the truth, are generally
very ignorant and ill qualified for their office; and, in their
room, the preſent worthy Bishop of Arbe fent a latin paftor.
The Glagolitic tongue, which is the ancient facred Illyric, is
now but little underſtood. I know not how the latin prieſts
will relish the duty which the people uſed to exact from their
Illyric paftors. All theſe, and the curate in particular, were
obliged to exorciſe the evil ſpirits, and the Vukodlaci, or witches
who raiſed the ſtorms; to ſtand in their facerdotal drefs, with
the holy water in their hand, without doors, expofed to wind
and rain. The impoftors appeared to act this fcene very feri-
ouſly, making a thouſand motions and grimaces, and leaping
from one fide to the other, as if purſuing fome Vukodlak. I
knew one of them, who run after the devil into the fea up to
the middle, and, in that ftrange pofture, continued his croffes,
afperfions and conjurations. The iſlanders, while the prieſt
mutters his prayers, diſcharge their pieces towards the place
pointed at by him; as if to kill the witches, or put them to
flight. What fillier cuſtoms can there be among the Lappo-
nians?
On the firſt day of May, a young man, with a branch of a
tree in his hand, runs through the village of Novaglia, paffing
before all the houſes. The women, who are waiting for him,
throw water on him as he paffes, crying aloud, May day vodé,
i. e. May give water. When the young man has finiſhed his
round, he leaps into the fea, and fwims about. I aſked them
about the origin of this odd cuftom, and all the anſwer they
could give was, that it had been fo for time immemorial, but
they knew not why.
3
The
[ 531 ]
The women of Pago, and particularly thoſe who have been
married but a ſhort time, if their huſband happens to die, tear
their hair out in good earneſt, and ſcatter it on the coffin; and
this ceremony is fo much confecrated by cuftom, that no wo-
man, even though the had notoriouſly hated her huſband, would
fail in performing it.
O
LETTER
III.
Concerning the Island of VEGLIA in general.
F all the iſlands of the Quarnaro, which, between great and
fmall, are more than twenty in number, the iſland of Veglia is
certainly the moſt confiderable, for the ancient date of its being
inhabited; the number of people it contains; the fingularity of
its fituation; the amenity of the country; the variety and riches
of its commodities; and, finally, for productions of the foffil
kingdom. The ancient greek geographers knew it by the name
of Curicta, which was alſo adopted by the latins. A certain
friar, I know not for what reaſon, defirous of doing a diſplea-
fure to the Veglians, drew the etymology of Curicta from Co-
rita, which, in Illyrick, fignifies a bog's trough; though the
iſland is very far from having any likeneſs to fuch an utenfil:
the fame friar was greatly offended at me, becauſe I had the cou-
rage to differ from his opinion, and wrote a kind of libel on
the ſubject, which was judged unworthy to be printed. In the
good times the iſland had two names Curicta and Fulfinio, of
which Pliny, Ptolomy, and others make mention. In the de-
cline of the empire, both the chief city and the iſland changed
name, and are called Becla by Porphyrogenitus, from whence
the Latins of the barbarous ages called them Vegla, and the Ita-
lians Veglia.
Y y y 2
Few
7
क
£
5.32 ].
1
T
+
*
Few confiderable iſlands are fituated fo near the main land as
this is, being divided from the coaft of Liburnia, or low Auftri-
an Croatia, by a channel fcarcely a quarter of a mile broad.
It is of an irregular figure, and has feveral promontories that
ftretch far into the fea, as the neighbouring iſlands of Arbe,
Cherf, and Pago alfo have. Its circuit is about ninety-five
miles; the length of it is thirty; and its greateſt breadth about
fourteen. Martiniere, and thote who copied him, were much
miftaken in giving it only thirty miles of circuit. The island
has many fall harbours and roads, but no good ſtation for
large veffels; and, in the roads, the ſmaller barks muft. be
drawn up on the beach. A part of the coaſt of Veglio is quite
inacceffible, on account of, the fteepness of the rocks which
form it. The foil is, for the most part, mountainous and ftoney;
but there are fome very fertile and delicious vallies, which, how-
ever, do not all enjoy a good air, chiefly through the laziness of
the inhabitants, in not giving outlets to the water.,
Of the City of VEGLIA, its Antiquities, Customs, and Language.
<
The prefent capital city of the island, where the biſhop, and
governour refide, is fituated on the very fpot where the ancient
Curicta ſtood, as appears by the many remains of columns,
cornices, and engraved ftones, which are feen, here and there,
in the walls and ftreets. It is ill built, and full of rubbish,
and ruined houfes. In fummer time there is often a want of
good water to drink, and the Scirocco wind predominates. The
inhabitants of Veglia take very little care of antiquities, and are
very little acquainted with letters or the fciences. The only
man of learning and ſcience, whom I knew there, was the bi-
ſhop, of eighty years of age, born in Friuli; not in that iſland.
The
[ 533 ]
The most honourable and valuable, monuments of antiquity that
deferve to be carefully preferved, are fuffered to perish there,
through the ignorance of the people. The only infcription that.
exifts in good condition, and that is owing to its having been
in the wall of the town-houſe theſe two ages paſt, is the follow-
ing fomewhat uncommon in its tenour:
:
1
T. PITIVS. T. F. MARVLLVS
DECVRION. DECRETO
PVBLICE ELATVS ET SEPVLTVS EST.
A
The island of Veglia, when it belonged. to the kingdom of
Hungary, was a feod of the Counts Frangipani, who had many
other eftates on the neighbouring continent. Thoſe Counts
reigned tyrannically there, and fowed the feeds of licentiouſneſs,
which are not yet rooted out. About the end of the 15th cen-
tury, the Count Giovanni Frangipani ceded it to the republick
of Venice out of neceffity, as he had not only irritated his own
fubjects by his tyrannical behaviour, but alſo the king of Hun-
gary. Antonio Vinciguerra, the first author of Italian fatires,
went in the name of the fenate, to take poffeffion of the island,
and drew up a good narrative of the ftate in which he found it.
From that time Veglia became a feod of the Doge, who elects
all the beneficiaries, fuch as canons, prieſts, abbots, &c. and
has a kind of fovereign authority in ecclefiaftical matters. This
dependance on a lay fuperior refiding far off, renders the clergy
rather diforderly, and, in general, of not very edifying moral
characters; and a bishop who attempts to do his duty, is expofed
to much oppofition and trouble. The Doge of Venice cannot
attend to petty complaints of the clergy; and the minifters ap-
pointed for that purpoſe, are often more apt to profit by the diſ-
}
order,
[ 534 ]
order, than to remove it radically. A prieſt, for example, ac-
cuſed of defloration, has only to pay fifty paoli for a full acquittal,
according to the law of the iſland. There goes a ſtory of a
prieſt, who, being come to pay his penalty, after he had laid
down his fifty paoli, went on counting out more, and being aſked
why he did fo, anfwered: "I pay before hand for the next de-
"floration of which I ſhall be accufed."
The Greek fuperftitions fubfift almoſt all over the iſland of
Veglia, though there is no clergy of the Greek rite in it. The
prefent worthy bishop Monf. Zuccheri, has not been able to era-
dicate but a ſmall part of theſe fuperftitions, and his well meant
and zealous endeavours to extirpate the whole, involved him in
very difagreeable contefts with his flock.
The whole iſland of Veglia contains about fifteen thousand in-
habitants, of which, about fifteen hundred live within the city.
In former times, and till the beginning of this century, the in-
habitants of the city fpoke a particular dialect of their own,
ſomewhat reſembling that of Friuli; * but at preſent they ge-
nerally uſe the Venetian dialect. In feveral villages, the old
Veglian language is ſtill in uſe, and in fome others they ſpeak
a mixt jargon of Carnian Sclavonic, Latin and Italian, particu-
larly in one village called Pagliza.
of
→ Here is an example of the Friuli dialect: La Ifla de Vicla circonduta da torno
dall' jague de mur ziraja circa miglia chiant; ce facile all' approdor de burche de run-
qua grandezza nei zu puarich, which means: The iſland of Veglia furrounded by
the waters of the fea, is about a hundred miles round, it is of easy access for barks of
any fize in its ports.
[ 535 ]
Of the Ruins of FULFINIO.
Concerning the other ancient city of this iſland, which bore
the name of Fulfinio, no memorial is extant in the public re-
cords, and I could diſcover no veftige of it above ground the
firſt time I was at Veglia. In all my rambles through the ifland
I found no place that bore the characters of antiquity, either
Greek or Roman; or of ages anteriour to the tenth century.
But the worthy bishop Monf. Zuccheri was more fortunate, not-
withſtanding his great age, in one of his vifits to the mountain-
ous part of his diocefe. He was driven by a ftorm to a place,
where, without doubt, there had been a confiderable ancient
fettlement, and probably the city of Fulfinio once ftood. The
biſhop was pleafed to communicate his difcoveries to me, and
I ſhall here infert a part of his letter to that purpoſe: "I em-
“barked in order to paſs from Befca to Verbenico; but an im-
petuous boreal wind, ariſing out of the caverns on the Auf-
"trian coaſt, forced me, about mid-way, to take ſhelter in a
port called Mala-luca, where I was obliged to paſs the night,
66 not much at my eafe. Next day, at fun-rife, the fury of the
“tide made us refolve to go on ſhore. We foon found ourſelves
on a plain of ſmall extent, furrounded by very high and rocky
"hills, from whence the wind rebounding deſcended with in-
expreffible fury. In looking about for a place to pitch our
66
16
66
tent, we discovered an ancient wall in a very ruinous condi-
"tion, by the fide of which we were forced to remain two days
"and two nights; for the obſtinate ſtorm continued all that
"time: However, notwithſtanding the wind, finding myſelf
"in a place I had not feen before, and ſeeing the ſmall plain
"fcattered with ruins, not to remain idle, I refolved, together
"with
1
17
[536]..
86
:
66
* 6 6
wih my company, to fee if there was any thing worthy of
"obfervation. Now were our endeavours altogether fruftrated.
"The rubbish, and heaps of flones of ruined buildings, and
"the remains of walls and habitations occupy a fp.cs of about
two miles round. On the left hand of the part, are ſtill dif-
tinguishable the ruins of a kind of ſmall fort which command-
"ed it; and, at a little diftance, are feen, the remains of the
walls of a vaft building, which doubtles belonged to the
'chriftian times, and probably was a monastery. In, the centre
"of thefe ruins, there is a fmall church uncovered, not above
"ten feet broad, and about twenty long; it has a porch before
'it, and a chapel, or internal fanctuary, after the Greek man-
"ner, on the roof of which are fome remains of facred painting.
Beyond that, there is a hill of eafy afcent, on the top whereof
" is a building of hewn ftones, about half a mile round, with
ramparts like a fort, and fome ruined habitations within it.
"All this was attentively examined by me, and thofe in my
company, and we concluded that, we had thus by accident
"difcovered the fituation of the city of Fultinio, which flou-
"riſhed in the times of Pliny and Ptolomy. Befides the extent
of the ruins, which indicate rather a city deftroyed then a vil-
66
66
<<
lage, I was further convinced of the remote antiquity, of this
place, by fome pieces of columns of greek marble, granite,
"&c. For what caufe, or what time it was abandoned or de-
$6
ftroyed, is not eaſy to aſcertain; but if the inhabitants volun-
"tarily abandoned the place, it is probable they did ſo on ac-
"count of the fury of the wind, which would interrupt their
"communication with the reft of the island, ruin their planta-
tions, and even carry away their cultivable land from the fides
"of the hills." The venerable old prelaté found no infcriptions
there; though it is probable, that if the rubbish were moved at
leifure,
نان
[ 537 ]
leifure, and, by an intelligent hand, fome fpeaking monuments
of Fulfinio would come to light.
Of the moſt remarkable Places on the Ifland.
The principal villages of the iſland of Veglia, are Caſtlemuschio,
Dobrigno, Verbenico, and Befca; there are befides, feveral other
leffer villages, and many ſcattered hamlets. Caftelmufchio ftands
on a rock at the weſtern extremity of the iſland, on the fea fide,
and enjoys an extenſive view of the fea, and the oppofite Auf-
trian continent. From the fmall port of this village, there is a
ſtreight paffage to the city of Fiume in Croatia, which is twelve
miles diſtant. The narrowest part of the channel, which di-
vides the iſland of Veglia from the continent, is not far from
Caftlemuschio, at a place called Vos; but it is not frequented,
unleſs when the ſtorms render the other paffage dangerous.
There is nothing worth obfervation in the village of Castle-
mufchio. The prieſts of that church fhewed us, carefully pre-
ferved, two pieces of willow, eafily known by their bark,
afſuring us they were part of Mofes's rod. In the fame recipi-
ent, in order to join the Old with the New Teftament, they
made us obſerve fome rings of a chain with which St. Peter
was bound in priſon. The ignorance and fuperftition of thoſe
prieſts is fhameful; and it is much the fame all over the iſland.
In the diſtrict of Castlemufchio, there is a fine tract of land,
partly ill cultivated, and partly left wild, on account of the un-
wholeſomeneſs of the air; they call it Lughe, or lakes, becauſe,
in rainy winters, it remains covered with water; and, in fum-
Z z z
mer,
[538]
mer, it becomes dry again. Near the middle of the island there
is a permanent lake called Panighe
+
{
Ques
Dobrigne is a village at fome diftance from the fea near the cen-
tre of the iſland, and famous in that country for the beauty and
compliance of the women. The Counts Frangipani had a viľla
there, which now a days an ordinary tradefman would hardly
deign to inhahit. There is a prodigious number of priests at
·Dobrigne, as is generally the cafe over all the island; and hence
they are ragged, miferable, and reduced to exercife the loweſt
trades, fuch as fhoemakers, coopers, &c. But their indecent and
immoral way of life is much worſe than their poverty, and
there is no appearance of amendment, while the power of the
biſhop is ſo reſtrained in correcting vice, or eſtabliſhing diſcipline
and good order.
A
{
The dreſs of the peasants over all the island is of a coarſe kind
of cloth of a black colour, and confifts cheifly in a caffock, and a
pair of long and wide breeches, which reach down to the middle
of the leg; a number of people affembled together in this mourning
kind of habit, forms a melancholy fpectacle. Verbenico is alfo a
village, though commonly called a Town; and lies at eight miles
diſtance from the City of Veglia, on the other fide of the iſland, to-
wards the channel of the mountain Morlacca, with a fmall, and
bad harbour, oppofite to that of Novi on the Auftrian fhore. Ver-
benico ftands on a rock, above a ſmall and not unfertile plain, wa-
tered by feveral brooks. The name of the place is derived from
the willows that grow in plenty on the fides of the brooks, and
are called in Illyric Verb. There are a great many cattle on this
part of the iſland, and particularly horſes of that ſmall, ftrong and
sprightly breed well known in Italy, and much ufed by Ladies
and
་
{ 539 ]
{
and young gentlemen for tiding horfes. This part of the coun-
try, notwithſtanding the quantity of water, is healthy enough;
being well ventilated by the Borea.
I found a prieſt at Verberico, who underſtands, much better than
his brethen in thoſe parts, the ancient Sclavonic facred or Glago-
litic language; he fhewed me a manufcript wrote in that cha-
rafer, but it had little merit. Now a days the Glagolitic books
muſt lie as a fimple object of curiofity in the libraries, there be-
ing hardly any body who can read them diftin&tly, even in the
places where the fervice is performed in that language; and if
there happens to be one who can read the character, there is
abſolutely none who underſtand the meaning.
The priests of Verbenico who have the charge of collecting the
tithes, and of guarding the church, are obliged to fleep under a
lodge open on all fides, and contiguous to the ſteeple, from St.
George's day to Michaelmas; that they may be ready at any hour
to drive away the ſtorms of hail, by ringing the bells; and if the
ſtorm continues, it is their duty to go out into the open air bare
headed, to conjure it. Perhaps no where are the bells more fre-
quently rung than here; and no ſteeple is more frequently ſtruck
with lightening.
Befca is a large place fituated on the eaſtern ſhore of the iſland,
at the lower end of a fine fertile valley, watered by a perennial
ſtream, and flanked, on the right and left, by very high and ſteep
marble mountains. The valley of Befca is feven miles long; it
rifes, by little and little, towards the mountains, on the weſt,
and forms a beautiful profpect, when beheld either from the
Z z z 2
heights,
[
540 ]
heights, or from the fea.. The Befians are induſtrious and ſkill-
ful huſbandmen, and the productions of their valley are exquifite
of their kinds. The wine is of excellent quality, the ground
being light and gravelly, and the plain warm and defended from
the northerly winds. The village of Befca is crouded in the au-
tumn by the principal citizens of Veglia, and of the neighbouring
City of Segna, who come there to enjoy the pleaſures of the coun-
try; it may be called the Brenta of the Croats. The road,.
however, is not fecure for barks, and perhaps for that reafon, the
ancients did not chufe to build there; preferring the above de-
fcribed little plain of Fulfinio, as having near it the ſmall harbour.
of Malalucca.
Of the Nature of the Soil of the Ifland, its Marble and Fofils..
The nature of the foil of the iſland of Veglia is generally ſtoney
from one end to the other. The ftrata are all calcareous, for
the moſt part horizontal, and almoſt all. marble. The fubftance
of the ſtone in general is the fame as that of Iftria, and frequently
full of Nummali; and in many places there is a very beautiful
breccia of various colours, fit for columns, pilafters,. tables, and
fuch like works. The finest breccia is found on the heights of
the mountain between Befca vecchia and Befca; though it is alſo.
found in many other parts of the iſland, and very large piéces
are often employed by the iſlanders in the meaneft ufes; they
know it by the name of Mandolato. The high mountains of the
iſland are generally compofed of the above mentioned ftrata, and
marble maffes, from the bottom to the top, but the baſe of the
inland is of fand ftone. The banks which are feen in the road-
of Befca, againſt which the fea beats, are of this nature; and a
vast quantity of Nummulari may be diſtinguiſhed in them. The
fame
[ 541 I
fame kind of ftone, with fome difference in hardnéfs and colour;
appears again in the neighbourhood of Dobrigno, where particu-
larly it reſembles the blackish volcanic fchiftus. The bottom-
of the country between Dobrigno and Caftelmufchia is not of hạrd
ſtone, as the high parts of the mountains are; but, in ſome places,
it is conpofed of cetaceous fciffile ftone; in others of hard whet-
ſtone; and in others of calcareous marine earth, containing pe-
trefactions. The large Nummali marmorifed form almoft the
whole fubftance of fome ftrata of hard ftone fufceptible of a po-
liſh. Near the Church of Caftelmuschio, there is a maſs of marine
earth in which is found a great number of Turbinati by no means
reſembling thoſe of our fea..
Between Verbenico and Dobrigno, near the little country Church
dedicated to St. Grisogono, there is a very large depofite of Num-
mali, looſe, and perfectly well preſerved. I diſcovered this by
chance, on feeing the peasants of Verbenico make ufe of theſe little
ftones in one of their affemblies, to give their fecret vote. It
feems evident, that the length of ages has, by means of the waters,
interrupted the continuity of the marble ftrata, the remains of
which ſtill form the mountains of the iſland, wearing into hol-
lows the vallies of Caftelmufchio, Verbenico, Dobrigno, Befca, and
other leffer cavities, and difcovering the ancient depofitions of
feas peopled with ſpecies of living creatures, unlike to thoſe that
inhabit the waters now in our days. The human imagination,.
accuſtomed to look on this globe as of no very old date, is aſto-
niſhed to think how great a number of ages must have been ne
ceffary to excavate, by the means of finall, and for the moſt part,,
eventual rills, the immenfe vallies which divide and fubdivide
the mountains; and if we were to begin to calculate, from the
notions:
[ 542 ]
>
notions or accounts we have of the elevation of the bottom of the
fea in a century, the mind would be confounded with the hun-
dreds of thouſands of years that would be requifite to form, by
the defpofition of triturations and fhells, fuch high maffes of
immenſe extent, and frequently of above a thouſand feet in depth.
But in what confufion and perplexity are we thrown, if we en-
deavor to conjecture from what mountains, were derived, and
by what rivers were ftritulated, the quartzofe fand which forms
the baſe of ſuch vaft tracts of country, and from whence were
detached the ſmall particles of coloured flints, which, now and
then, are found mixed together with Oftracites and Nummali. It
is certain that the correfpondence of the ftrata on each fide of the
hollows is perfectly exact, and that theſe interruptions are, in
the moſt evident manner, characterised to have been made no
otherways than by the very long operation of flow confuming
waters; and when we have meditated on the ways and the time
requifite to effectuate the diſcontinuation and deſtruction of the
ftoney maffes, it is but reaſonable to reflect on the origin of the
maſſes themſelves. I confess that theſe ideas of longevity Arike
my mind
every time I am among the mountains; and hence I
cannot fatisfy myſelf with the various theories and ſyſtems which
would explain collectively the origin of the greateſt part of the
mountains by the hypothefis of primitive formation. I know
not if, from the beginning, it was neceffary that our globe ſhould
have mountains to render it habitable; perhaps thoſe ſpecies of
animals and vegetables which derive the greateft advantages from
them, might receive equal benefit, from the plains elevated of
neceffity by the natural convexity of the fuperficies; or perhaps
the different modifications, of which animals and vegetables are
ſuſceptible, would folve the difficulties. However this
However this may be,
it
[ 543 ]
}
it is very certain, that a naturalift could hardly pretend to in dia
cate mountains now exiſting with characters of primitive figure,
if we except thoſe thrown up by Volcanos, or visibly inſulated
fome way or other from the time of their formation. It may
be faid in general, that the authors of ſyſtems on the origin of
mountains have not examined the effects of the waters with an
attentive and unprejudiced eye; fome of them, who did not
want: talents for calculation, fuffered themfelves to be frighten-
ed, at the immenfity of ages neceffary for performing thoſe flow
corroding labours; as if it were a reflection on the author of
nature to give a very remote antiquity of origin to his works..
But we will return to the ifland of Veglia.
may
7
Products and Commerce of the island of VEGLIA.
}
Horfes of a ſmall and middle fize make an article of trade
in this ifland, though it is not every year of equal importance.
The oxen are ſmall and weak: the number of fheep on the iſland
be about fifty thouſand; but their wool is not much eſteem-
ed, perhaps becauſe they are abandoned to all the injuries of the
feafons in the woods, and among the rocks contiguous to the
ifland. They have hardly corn enough for four months pro-
vifion; but, in recompence, they make above twenty four thou-
fand barrels of wine for exportation; that of the valley of Befca
is eſteemed the beft. The firewood fent yearly to Venice amounts
to about five thousand fequins. Salt fish is alfo an article of
fome importance; but that being a precarious product, it is not
poffible to aſcertain the annual value; and, befides, the pea-
fants of Veglia are generally more attentive to agriculture than
to
-
1
{
I 544 ]
to fiſhing, and fell all the fish they catch in fmall parcels in the
Auſtrian state. They take the fame liberty, though contrary to
the laws, of felling their other products, fuch as oil, figs and
almonds, which are not inconfiderable articles, without the
Venetian State.
}
ITER
t
ITER BUDA HADRIANOPOLIM
ΑΝΝΟ MDL III EXARATUM
AC
A B
ANTONIO VERANTIO
1
TUNC QUINQUECCLESIENSI,
MOX AGRIENSI EPISCOPO,
AC DEM U M
ARCHIEPISCOPO STRIGONIENSI,
REGIO IN
HUNGARIA LOCUM TENENTI,
MAGNO REGNI CANCELLAR I O,
ATQUE
S. R. E. CARDINALI ELECTO;
Nunc primum e Verantiano Carthophylacio
in lucem editum.
༣
4 A
OPTIMO AC PRÆCLARO VIR O
COMITI
FRANCISCO DRAGANITIO
VERANTIO
SEBE NICENSI PATRITIO
J. U. D.
PRISCE HOSPITALITAT IS
AC LITERARUM CULTORI
EXIMIO
FRAGMENTUM VERANTIANUM
MERITA LUCE DONATUM
GRATI DEVINCTIQUE ANIMI
MONUMENTU M
D. D. D.
ALBERTUS FORT I S.
[ 549 ]
+
NCIVS ARCHIEP STRIG-HVI
VERANCIVS
PRIMAS
XI
AN
ALTO
MNIA
Ex Numifmate argenteo.
ANTONII VERANTIE
SE BE NICENS IS
IT ER BUDA HADRIANOPOLI M.
DE
ECIMA octava, & vigefima prima Julii MDLIII a Paffa Budenfi
auditi, qui nobis fe humaniffimum exhibuit, & non folum nobif-
cum familiariter, fed & civiliter præter omnem fuæ gentis morem collo-
quutus eft. Nec mirum ; dicebatur enim litteras didiciffe. Quæcum-
que autem apud eum voluimus pro voto geffimus. De conjuratis tan- -
tuum Petrovii nonnihil laboravimus; quibufdam auxilia ex Temefvaro, -
Zegedino, & Zolnoko in Ifabellæ Reginæ gratiam fuppeditabat, quod
expreffe agebat contra inducias. Eo tamen diverfis modis avocato ab
ejufmodi tumultibus, induximus.tandem ut polliceretur fe nihil præci-
pitaturum antequam nos Conftantinopolim veniremus. Daturum fe:
etiam ad Petrovium literas, qui ex Munkach dicebatur jam cum aliqui-.
bus..
[ 559 ]
R
bus copiis adventare Varadinum verfus, ut interim conquiefceret, & a
fuo principe expectaret quid facto vellet, Cavit tamen ftudio, &, conatu
diligenti.ne Stephanum Dabo novum Vaivodam Rex-nofter, mitteret in
Tranſylvaniam cùm exercitu: fed Andream Bathoreum, qui jam an-
num Vaivodatu.co fungebatur, ibidem confirmaret. A cogendo autem
exercitu contra Petrovium, & ejus conjurato, quem cogeré, magna
fama ferebatur, defifteret omnino: quias fi pergerer in hoc conatu Rex,
nec ipfe paffa amicos principis fui effet defertarus
f
་་
ร
J
1 t
Hæc xxx ejufdem menfis per veredarios Regi nunciata, Pafla nos
perofficiofe falutato navibus grandioribus viti 111, & comitati yí Haffa-
dis claffiario milite inſtructis tutelæ caufa movimus à Sicambria, Bu-
damque, ac Peſtum præternavigantes, utraque ex urbe magno bombar-
darum fragore honoris ergo profequuti, ea ipfa die ad oppidum Räz-
kevi v milliaribus Pannonicis a Buda diftans pervenimus, ibique noctem
infequentem exegimus.
'
>
朵
​7
' '
1
}
Die xxvi navés ingreffi tribus horis ante lucanum tempus primo noctis
crepufculo Tolnam venimus, quod oppidum a Räſkevi XII difgungitur
milliaribus. Nec alium infignem aut nominatu dignum locum ripis
Danubii, imminentem in eo tractu vidimus quam oppidum Pacchos,
vinetis tantummodo circumdatum, & ad Tolnam milliaribus noftris
pertinens. A quo oppido Pachos Paxiorum quoque familia denomina-
tur, quæ quidem & vetus, & clara eft, cenfeturque jam a multis annis
in primorum ordine.
I
}
} <
}
2
4
1
L
* 3*, *. 20
*
*
{
$
£
Tolna hac exacta pocte, & die vi fupra xx alto jam Sole inde pro-
fecti, noctem quoque infequentem, & diem xxvII continenter naviga-
vimus, donec luce ad occafum inclinata ad Erdevod arcem, quæ ad
Titulienfem Præpofituram olin attinebat, appulimus, Nec in hoc trac-.
tu quoque, qui terra, xx fere & 1 milliaria, aquis, paullo minus quam
duplum facere, perhibetur, multa vidimus loca, quod compendia rimati
fluminis inter infulas tantum fylvis obfitas, & folitudine horridas curfum
tenuimus navigationis. Periclitati alioqui fæpius dum per anguftiores
quofdam
**
[ 551 ]
quofdam meatus-fluminis vorticofis moandris fœdos, & arborum trun-
cos mediis aquis hic illic inhærentes, tanquam fcopulos nimis hoftiles
navigantibus vitabundi enitimur. Nec des tantum quantum nox &
pavoris, & periculi attulerat, verum aufpice Deo illæfi evafimus, Batha
olim facro fanguine, Mohacio Ludovicis Regis clade memorabili mini-
ne vifo. Quæ autem loca nos, vidiffe contigit, quum navium libuit
rectoribus redire in juftum alveum, hæc funt. Kemzeg Arx familiæ
Orbaffinorum in dextra Danubii prorfus diruta, & deftituta, fitaque
olim in amœno loco, cui adjacebat clauftrum Pauli Heremitæ. Dein.
de oppida nominata Verefmarth, & Lazkò. Mox Dravi fluminis oftium,
a quo Valcò comitatus fumit initium, & Baronienfis definit. Poft
Arcem, Erdevod, de qua fuper nullo honore habitata. In finiftra op-
pidum eft Pathay, Baian Caftellum nuper ab Agrienfi præfidio concre-
matum, & Zeremlenium vicus non obfcurus prifcis temporibus, nunc
parvo admodum poffeffus homine. Deus bone! quam ubique optimæ,
& fœcundiffimæ terræ triftis nobis facies apparuit, quam inculta omnia,
quam & agri, & vineæ veprium horrore infeffæ, quam omni in loco
rarus agricola, rarum pecus, & crebra folitudo! Nofter nauclerus homo
Rafcianus referebat, quod qui olim falvo noftro Imperio una in villa
numerus erat colonorum, nunc in xxx vix par inveniri poteft. Quid
de deletis pagis cenfeas dici poffe, quorum jam etiam nomina interiere?
Verum enimvero dum tuemur, & confideramus Dravi oftium, montem
quendam altum & acutum verfus civitatem Quinquecclefiarum confpexi-
mus, quem quum rogaffemus quinam mons effet,, accepimus Harfanum
ab indigenis vocitari. De quo mira narrabat meus collega Zay, quæ a
veteribus accepta in Hodiernum diem miraculi vice referri folent. Effe
in ejus cacumine pervetuftam, et jam defolatam arcem, in eaque puteum
fupereffe profundum & cavernofum, in quem quicquid dejeceris, quod
natura libratur nec in ima demergitur, effluere in Dravum, qui ei in
quinto noftro fubfit milliario a feptemtrionibus. Res autem in anate
aliquando dicitur præbuiffe experimentum, quæ projecta cum figno alli-
gato in memoratum puteum paucis diebus poft vifa eft cum eodem figno
nare per Dravum.
Apud
·[. 552. ]
Apud Erdevod vix cœna fumpta ubi primum'ilfoxit "luna folvimus,
& enavigato duorum milliarium fpatio arces inibi exiftentes' Boroh,
Valco videre per noctem non potuimus.
Die vero infequenti xxIII cum ortu folis apparuit nobis Arx Zatha
nomine, quam Turcæ haud ita pridem folo tenus diruerant, Inde jam
penes amceniora loca, & ubique jufto Danubii alveo tenentes curfum,
occurrit nobis Arx Atthya ipfa etiam difturbata, ultimus Valco comitatus
limes, & primus Syrmii. Atthiæ proxima Vylacchum eft, quam Raf-
ciani Ulok vocant, multum olim memorabilis, ac ne nunc quoque ob-
fcura, curaque diligenti cuftoditur a Turcis. Erat autem olim Ducis
Laurentii, & ejus cognomine utebatur quia habebat hæreditariam. Ha-
buit Vylacchum proventus maximos. Cæterum unum ultimæ conditi-
onis habitum non prætermittam referre, qui appellatus eſt obolarius ab
unius oboli collatione. Nec fuccurrit quibus ex rebus proveniebat;
ejus tamen fumma pecuniæ afcendebat ad vi millia aureorum; ferunt-
que eam penſionem fupra quam dici poffit moleftam, & onerofam femper
fuiffe fubditis. Quare fæpenumero xx millia aureorum Duci fuo quot-
annis pendere voluerunt fi eo proventu eos liberaffet. Exorari tamen
numquam potuit; & profeffus eft fi centuplum pendiffent fe non factu-
rum, ne ejus inflitutores injuria afficeret. Unde quatuor primariorum
Regulorum Hungariæ Thoma Strigonienfis Archiepifcopi, Stephani
Bathorei, N. Orzagi, & Laurentii Ducis V facete dicta memorantur.
Primis tribus tria erant oppida. Priori Kemencze quod fornacem figni-
Sicat; proximo Karon quod damnum, tertio Gengies quod uniones, quar-
to proventus obolaris quem Fyller vocant. Quum igitur tres illi a
Strigonienfi Archiepifcopo convivio fuiffent aliquando excepti, mutuo-
que inter fefe de magnitudine opum familiariter concertarent, Stephanus
forte Bathoreus prior per extenuationem damnofi nominis tantas fibi opes
effe diceret, ut ex damno etiam redditus illi maximi provenirent: fub-
junxit N. Orzagus fuas vero tantas ut canes, etiam apud eum in unioni-
bus ambularent: Laurentius Dux protulit obolarem redditum: Tho-
mas demum, quia e re nata hic fermo in medium prodierat, cupiens ipfe
1
etiam
[ 553 ]
}
etiam aliquid afferre fimile, fubita cogitatione ditionem fuam percurrit
ac inquit: Domini, mihi quoque fornax eft, aut malitis Stuba, ea am-
plitudine ut aliquot millibus hominum hofpitia fuppeditare poffit.
Ab Vylaccho Corofca caftellum, & mox Banmonoftra, Syrmienfis
olim Epifcopatus fedes, Arx quondam cum oppido non incelebris, &
edito atque amœno loco, Danubioque imminenti pofita; nunc jam folo
fity, & exili veftigio ruinarum nota, nec colono ut ante poffeffa multo,
defolatis, & in folitudinem redactis innumeris tractibus vinearum, qui-
bus a continenti latiffime in coronam vallabatur.
Non prætermittam de Cierevogii quoque Arce quæ fuit Valentini
Terek meminiffe, cujus & Atthya fupra memorata erat, ambeæque iifdem
pollebant dótibus, atque eodem fitu, fed fimilem fortunam fortitæ ut
aliæ folo funt æquatæ.
Hinc oppidum Kamoncz attigimus frequens olim habitatoribus, &
Sacerdotibus, & literariis ludis celebratum, unumque inter alia quæ in
Syrmio habuerunt exiftimationem non poftremum, five opes & uberta-
tem loci refpicias, five oppidanorum nitorem, & induftriam. Centum
quinquaginta domos lapideas exftructas, & decenti ordine pofitas, ne
luteas eafque numerofas reliquæ plebis cafas enumerem, in eo videre
erat. Nunc omnino vix cernuntur xv ftramineæ. Ferunt loci incolæ
yı millia vini doliorum effufa fuiffe in oppido quùm initio a Turcis
everfum eft, & inftar non exigui rivi aream fori, quæ oppidum modica
concavitate dirimebat, fluxiffe genù tenus.
J
A Kamoncz Varadinum Petri cum occafu folis pervenimus, ibique
totam noctem exegimus non aufi per tenebras navigare propter molas
oppidi Karon, quæ majore numero per eum tractum Danubii collocatæ
impediebant curfum rectiorem.
Die pofteriori xxx ingreffi navigationem prodeunte aurora Karon oppi-
dum primum vidimus, ubi etiam Arx olim fuerat, fed a Turcis jam
4. B
5
disjeca
{
L 554 J
{
}
disjecta eft. Huic oppido etfi priftinus décor ademptus fit, & di minuta
doinorum habitatorumque frequentia, nullum tamen a Tolna vifum eft
nobis effe hoc Karonte magis incolume, niagis frequens, et agforum vi-
nearumque culturis perpolitum, & in quo folo id temporis vinum Syr-
mienfe retinet exiftimationem aliquam veteris valoris, adeo in lotis re-
liquis ea cura deftitutæ funt vineæ. Apud hoc oppidum mon's Almus,
antiquis noftris Frufca appellatus definit, qui ab ora que Atthyam, &
Vylacchum Arces difcriminat incipit, vinoque fingulari notus eft, cujus
vitam probus imperator primus ex Italia allatam plantaffe dicitur. Ha-
bet hic Mons x11 circiter milliaria löngitudinis, latitudinis tria ubi latin-
mus, totufque ex omni parte per latera, & radices vinetis cultus; juga
fylvis amoenis virent, ac denfantur citra horrorem. Nunc, quod depla-
randum maxime eft, vix e regione Danubii, cui grato atque aprico.
afpectu, fpatiofoqué fatis fufficienter et leniter imminet vertice, omnino
xx vineas non oftendit viatoribus: quum olim nullus a fylva focus va-
cuus non erat vitibus confitus, præfertim vero qui in tumorem magis
excreverat, & incumbentem in fe propius meridianum folem excipiebat.
*
>
i
t
*
!
T
Ubi autem hic mons apud Karontem ut dixi definit, mox eodem loci
finditur bifariam, eaque pars quæ petit mediterranea in finiftram regio
regio-
nem vocatur Albus, pars altera, quæ a Danubii ripis non recedit, for-
tita eſt plura nomina, ut funt locorum quibus imminet. Hincque eft
Karon beggye, id eft Karontis mons, et id
༈ ༔ སྙ
A
genus alia,
}
f M
Karontem fequitur Zalonkemen, & Titulium Arces cum oppidis, ex
oppofito invicem Danubio utramque interfluente alveo latiffimo
eaque erat ditionis regiæ, hæc habebat præpofitum, tantoque Titulium
Zalonkemeno integrius et frequentius effe cognovimus quanto de Karonte
dixeramus. Sed id quidem ex auditu, quia fub ipfis muris Zalonke-
meni tranfivimus, Titulium a longe infpeximus. Nec refert de ruinis
excidioque, ut putamus, dicere: quia cuncta ruinæ, defolatio, & foli-
tudo habet. Hoc tantum adjiciendum duxi, quod Tibifcus amnis ex
Carpato monte per. Comitatum primo Maromarufianum fluens, deinde
per Cumanorum campos in fuperiore Pannonia fitos lapfus Titulii al-
and f
11/
$
luit
[ 555 ]
&
{f❖༣
luit promontorium, quod habet in dextro latere. Inde paullo ultra
curfu proyectus, & in, paludes fparfus uno tandem oftio Zalon-
kemeno oppofito in Danubium cadit. Adjacet in hoc loco Titulio lon
gior quædam quam latior paluftris planities, eaque adeo humilis, & de-
preffa eft, ut quotiens vel Danubius vel Tibifcus excreverit aquis tota
Occupetur, Nec idonea, effe poteft ufibus bellicis, quod aliquando me-
mini me audiviffe.
3
A
+
Eadem die ad Zalonkemenum, et dein Zemlinium, quod citra Bel-
gradum parvo fpatio pofitum eft, pervenimus. Arx olim fuit, et oppi-
dum obfidendi caufa Belgradi prifcis factum temporibus a noftris Hun-
garis. Nunc folo æquata Arce oppidum in pagum redactum. Zalon-
kemenum autem Arx eft fimiliter et oppidum; eaque in editiore ripa fita
eft, oppidum ima tenet, vallatum quidem muro lapideo, fed tenui, et
vetuftate ac hyemali æftu fluminis magna ex parte ubi collapfum ubi
perforatum. Arx perinde æque & imbecillibus, et ruinofis præ vetuftate
mœnibus eminet: nullo infigni ædificio memoranda, et in declive ad
flumen pendet. Poteramus ea adhuc die appellere ad Belgradum, quum
a Zalonkemeno nonnifi III milliaribus. noftris diftet.
Verum quia
+
.301 nis V400
conductoribus vifum eft ut mane eo perveniremus, ufi per eam noctem
lenta remigatione, et prope folo curfu fluminis vecti, circiter mediam
noctem Zemlinium advenimus, ibique reliquum noctis exegimus.
+
Julii die ultima cum fole furreximus, Belgradoque circumfpectantes,
& mirantes omnibus. fæculis præclarum loci fitum fucceffimus, quem
ut defcriberem quam proprie fieri potuit vetus jam dudum videndi defi-
derium fecit.
41
ར
Ubi enim Zalonkemenum, et Zemlinium prætervexeris fecundo fluvio
in meridiem a feptemtrione venienti occurrit Belgradum, moxque hinc ·
torquente fe in occidenten Danubio fub ipfis moenibus ab occidente ter-
go recipit Savum, lato quidem oftio, fed nec violento, nec praecipiti.
Sine æftu veluti in amicitiam quandam, & confanguineitatem invicem
copulantur. Jam hoc loco eminet ripa paullo in aquas prominens pen-
4 B 2
+
*
denfque
1
[ 556 1
ว
嘉
​denfque a feptemtrione, et ortu, et occiduo; quicquid a meridiana plaga
habet continens id planum eft et late fufum, nec nifi in tumulos, et me-
diocres colles affurgens. Ubi vero Belgradum fedet porrectum et æquale
jugum eft, quod et Arcem, et Urbem fimul fuftiner. Veruiti în oriente.
ipfa Urbs quadrata, in occafu triangulari' forma Arx pofita eft, eaque
parte qua in acumen turbinatur Urbi inferitur, turribus et hæc et illa in
vetuftum morem pluribus et frequentibus exædificata. Nec dubium
eft veterum et Graecorum, et Romanorum in veftigio fuiffe Belgradum
conditum. Arx tamen nec ingens, nec ædificio eximia. Cæterum
magis ad aquas videtur vergere, et muro ac duabus turribus difcreta
ab ipfa Urbe eft. Unde duplex appelfatur, eaque "Turris quæ genti:
fempre, fuit nominatiffima, Neboyze nomine, pofita eft in hoc difcrimine,
nullo nec decore, nec munimento infignis, fed quia craffior cæteris, et
in qua campana tenebatur, qua quum in hoftes procurrendum fuit fig.
num dabatur militi ad arma rapienda.
3
Jl.
Sed præter hanc Civitatem, quam in jugo fitam, et cum Arce com
putatem effe diximus, alia Civitas adjacet a jugo ipfo ad Danubium uf-
que fufa, ficque inclufa monibus in rotunditatem aliquot angulorum
prout ripæ ejus conditio expofcebat circularis ab ipfa fumma Civitate et
Arce ductis, ut in duabus ejus extremis angulis juxta aquas ripenfe pró-
pugnaculum in Arcis modum exiftat. Et hæc in feptemtrionem Danu-
bio et Savo oppofita fita eft.
Declivia jugi orientalis, ubi funt portæ Civitatis fuperioris, et meri-
dianam continentem, quam ad muros ufque planam effe dictum eft,^oc-
cupant latiffima, et frequentiffima fuburbia hortis immixta. In occafu,
in quo Arx eft collocata, ingens et amplum penu eft annonæ bellicæ,
quod femper refertum tenetur ad ufus expeditionis generalis. Nec aliud
juxta eft fuburbium quam Procuratorum, et Cuftodum penu, paucæ
aliquot habitationes, et fervitiorum tuguria.
}
3
ኒ
3
*
De Belgradi nominibus dicere non ommittam. Albam Graecam ap-
pellavere veteres, credo a Graecis conditioribus, qui ea loca initio tenue-
runt : .
[ 557 ]
₹
}
runt: quod e Strabone etiam in vir cognofcere licet, qui Dacis has
regiones, quæ olim Mcfiæ appellabantur, dicit fuiffe propinquas, ne &
fucceffam nationem Græcis ritibus et religioni addictam, Rafcianam
fcilicet commemorem, et aliud de Græcorum Imperio, quod latiffime
olim fines protulerat..
ን
}
>
}
}
י
{
Romani poſtea Taurunum vocavere, ut in Ptolemæo, et in alifs Geo-
graphis videre eft,, cujus rei ratio non omnino facile reddi poteft.
Hungari Handor Albam nominant, a vicino colle latiore quam altiore
vitibus confito, qui mons vulgo Handor beggye etiam nunc appellatur.
2
Ab indigenis, qui fermone Illyrico utantur, Slavni vocatur Biograd,
hoc eft gloriofum five famofum a virtute militum Ducumque, qui in
præfidio ejus fuccifivis temporibus manferunt ab amiffo Zmiderovio, et
Rafcianorum Imperio.
Jam poftremi Scriptores 'Belgradum nominant a vicinitate. Illyrica
dictionis Biograd. Ubi notandum eft quod hæ Nationes Illyricæ ut
plurimum fedes fuorum Principum hoc nomine folitæ erant olim infig-
nire, út de hoc Belgrado, de Alba Regali, de Alba Julia in Tranſylva-
nia, et de Alba Nezter Arce ad Tyram Alumen fita videmus, quæ omnes
'dicuntur aliquando fedes fuiffe Principum. Sed Belgrado Infula eft
oppofita amoena fatis, et aptiffima rebus gerendis..
'
At prima die Augufti, relictis in Portu ad Belgradum navibus, ubi .
Myfiae fuperioris eft initium, terra Zmiderovium verfus iter inivimus,
femperque ad Sarnovo Arcem fummo in monte dextrorfum fitam reſpi-
cientes ad Grockam pagum, ubi et Caftellum eft, quod jam paullo prius
quam a triennio contra excurfiones Temefvarinorum Turcae extruxerant,
pervenimus, atque ibidem nocte exacta fecundo Zmiderovium primis
diei horis applicuimus, locum fane et Arce, et Urbe, ac fuburbio dig-
num memoratu. Jugum enim quod adjacet Zmiderovio qua parte ref-
fpicit Danubium abfciffa fronte eft, et leniter ab imo eminet; caetera in
longum
[-558]
$
longum tractum porrectum, totum, faftigio ac tergo planum, en date
fufum, nec nifi folis vineis, & fructifera arbore per magna fpatia circum
excultum. A radicibus ejus exit planicies veluti animantis cujufdam
inferius labrum duum circiter millium paffuum, fecundum ripam longa,
vix vero dimidium lata, eaque penitiuis in flumen abiens multum & hu-
milis & depreffa fic, ut minimis etiam incrementis Danubii fubmerga-
tur. Zmiderovium urbem fumma hoc loci excipit ripa. Ejus autem
Urbis forma triquetra eft, longior quam latior, altis moenibus ac xxx
circiter turribus rectis, quadratis, æqualibus, & dimidiatim foras pro-
minentibus, interiore in vetuftum morem patentibus, apertis, tabulato-
rumque ferie diftin&tis, magnitudine mediocri, Sopronio tamen noftro
paullo amplior. Cæterum cornu tertio adverfo amni oppofita, in fecun-
do quo aquis afluitur Arcem habet prorfus civitati infertam, & validi-
oribus atque altioribus tribus turribus emunitam, foris vero qua in
montem refpicit tota vallatur pomoerio, quod in quolibet latere tria
oftendit propugnacula; foffaque muro incruftata ac longe profundiore
cincta eft quam flumen altum fit, adeo ut quum eam repleri ufus poftu-
lat non immittuntur, fed infunduntur aquarum latices. Quo fit ut e'ré-
gione quoque fluminis agger, vel potius moles quædam factitia foffæ eft
circumjecta paullo aquarum fuperficiem exuperans, quo hyberni glacie-
rum æftus a muris arceantur, foffæque ipfius concavitas ab arenarum
influxibus tueatur, quas amnium violentia foleat aggerere. Cæterum
loca hic aliquot aperiam Cl. Ptolemæi quæ fortaffe hactenus multis
fuere ignorata: quanquam & ipfe falli poffim, nihilominus oftendam
dubia me conjectura non fuiffe ductum.
រ
२
Fft in inferiori Pannonia quinte tabulæ Europeæ lib. x1 cap. xví in
civitatum nomenclatura Teutoburgium, Cornacum, Acumincuin, Rit-
tium, & Taurunum. Et mox in fuperiore Myfia, quæ nunc dupliciter
´appellatur Servia, & Rafcia, quum fit una atque eadem regio Tabula
Europeæ 1x. lib. III. c. Ix. Tricornium nomen fimiliter civitatis, &
fluvius Moſchius, & item Nys, ac tandem Ulpianum civitates. Quæ
etfi fæpenumero legerim alias et mecum altius confiderarim, confultif-
7
que
[ 559 ]
1
衾
​que etiam aliis auctoribus, & multis hominibus locorum eorum periti,
atque etiam inibi incolentibus, cupidus aliquid veritatis elicere, num-
quam tamén rem propius vifus fum perfpexiffe, fi modo perfpexerim,
quam iifdem locis vifis & peragratis. Igitur quum a Belgrado ad oppi-
duin Nys, qui tractus, ea via quam nos egimus, tota fit latitudo Myfiæ,
nullum aliud flumen vidimus præterquam illud quod Moravam incolæ
vocant. Viſa etiam ejus eruptione in Danubium ad Zmiderovium fub
ipfis pene moenibus e regione orientis, quo loco Tricornium ponit Pto-
lemæus, fine dubio in eam veni fidem, ut & hic Morava Mofchius fit,
& Zmiderovium Tricornium. Quandoquidein nec ab re inditum fuit
abre
nomen huic civitati Tricornio, quod in triangularem five tricorneam figu-
ram fit condita, quemadmodum jam memoratum eft fuperius de Zmide.
rovio. Nec id, út afferam præfentes muros éos effe, quos olim Tricor-
nium habuit. Verum in ejus fundamentis fuperſtructos fuiffe a Myfiæ
Regulis nequaquam eo inficias, & affirmare facile audeo id fefe fic ha-
beri..
J
Jam confiderata pofitione Teutoburgii; oſtii Dravi, Cornaci, Acu-
minci, Rittii, & Tauruni, quod nobis introitus Savi in Danubium per-
facile declárat, haud dubie & Teutoburgium quinquecclefias, ut Corna-
Gum Karon, & Acumincum Kamoncz, & Rittium Zalonkemenum effè
dixerim, quemadmodum & Ulpianum Sophiam, infigne olim Dardano-
rum, nunc Triballorum-five, Bulgarorum emporium in xvIII milliario ab
oppido Nys pofitum. Loca autem ejufmodi non carent veftigiis ve-
tuftatis, paffim enim rudera, & murorum ruinas oftendunt.
Caeterum toto haec ora Danubii dextera munita erat olim urbibus, &
caftellis per Romanos, in quibus praefidia tenebant militaria contra in-
curfiones Dacorum, ut eft videre in Strabone Lib. vii, ubi dicit Danu-
bium quam longe per Dacorum agrum fluat Danubium vocari, poftea
Iftrum, donec Pontum attigerit per Getas. Dacorum autem tractus
juxta veterum limites ab oftio Tibifci fluminis ad cataractas Danubii
Ab his in Pontum Getarum terra cenfebatur. Nunc ii Valacchi,
erat.
Tranfalpini,
[
560 ]
1
Tranfalpini, et Moldavi funt. Quod vero et Varadinum Petri & Zmi-
derovium opportunium loco ad arcendos Dacosipofitumfit mane inhiam
apparet, quanquicquid eft planitiei que Themedvari uztha, hoc eft-
folitudo, appellatur, in qua duo etiam colles exiftunt infignes; &ʊrivicini <«
inter fe alter. Mezero fomlyo, alter Er feintyo nuncupatus, hoc totum Va… 2
radinò Petri, & Zmiderovio velut fub oculis, aut fub fpecula quadam,
fitum eft facileque ad occurrendam omni hofti habet facultatem. Unde
quandocumque etiam in ditiones finiftri lateris Danubii Ture exquereré,
aut exercitum educere folent, femper ad Varadinum Petri vadum habent,--
ut nullo alio loco commodius.
Haulage amborg
£
ג
+
Verum hic prorfus nos u die Augufti digreffi a Danubio, idem recta
in orientem converfus eft: Myfiæ nos interiora petiimus & gradientes
dextro latere amnis Moravæ, terra nimirum ampla, fertili, nec minus
pulchra, atque amoena, & montibus utrinque comitata, quarum juga
memorofa agris erant referta. Cæterum eodem die Livadam pagum
venimus, qui eft ad torrentem Jeffenizam, & fylvam Lominizam fitam.
Cuem locum dum peragramus, & inambulamus adverfo torrente, didi-
cimus domum Pauli Bakyth Venciaz nominatam haud longe fuiffe, im
qua olim antequam a Turcis ad nos tranfiret habitabat. Qui Paulus
homo erat, ut fcis, ve Rafcianis oriundus, & quum ob virtutes ballicās,
quibus infigniter pollebat, tum ob fidem in Regem noftrum non vulga
rem dignus certe eft ut ejus vivat memoria. Ut enim non obſeure
meritoque inter ductores belli relatus fuerat, ita etiam obiit clara & me
morabili morte, elade Joannis Coceaneri in Comitatu Valco apud arcema
Ivancam (quæ erat ante quami a Turcis caperetur, Francifci Zay college:
mei) dum fugientis noftri exercitus qua frontem qua latera & demum
omnes partes unus inter Duces, magno animo, & periculo fuo protegen-
do, identidem in hoftium inſultantium procurrit cuneos.
•
7
Hoc pergentes tractu Turcas quofdam affequimur, qui equos ac mulos
plenis hominum corbibus pellebant oneratos, parfque eorum, qui gefta
bantur in hunc modum, perfona linei panni habebant tectas facies, pars
vero apertas. Quæ res etiam mihi præbuit caufam quæftionis. No-
>
vitas
[561]
vitas enim ejufmodi, in folo tam a noftro alieno, montri cujufpiam fe.
cerat fpeciem. Quid, inquam, fibi volunt perfonae Dyonifiales? quid
ea hominibus jumenta onerata? Mercatorefne funt, an furtivi aliqui?
Refponfum eft. Onera captivos effe; caeterum qui perfona tegebantur
juniorum, & nobiliorum notare conditionem, quibus caveretur ne folis
ardore ac pulverum injuria facies illorum laedantur & fi qui forte fuiffent
fuffurati e propinquis locis, ne agnofcantur. Reliquos mercatores effe,
& alios ex ultima veniffe Thracia, alios Afia, tamque extime ad confinia
prodire confueffe ut captivos ex copia vilius emant, charius in patria
vendituri. Horrendum profecto, & lamentabile fuit fpectaculum vi-
dere hominem venalem ut pecus, et tractari tam viliter.
E Livada pago egreffi die 11 menfis memorati, moxque fylvam
emenfi non impendio magnam, quam fupra Lomnizam vocari dixeram,
in tertio circiter milliario pervenimus ad vadum amnis Moravae Derventh
a monte cui ſubjacet vocatum, quo et vicinus pagus nomine nuncupa-
tur; eaquae fylva etfi brevis, et non adeo denfa fit, latronum tamen
infidiis infamis eft.
Ubi autem Aumen caepiffemus trajicere alii Turcae occurrunt, inter
quos unus erat caeteris habitu, veftituque amplior: et eos quinque
Ægyptii, quos nunc Ciganos, five Cinganos appellamus, una atque ex-
dem catena colla vincti, et ordine tracti fequebantur, lamentabiles voces
edentes, et egeftatem excufantes. Quaefivi tum ii quinam forent, et
quae caufa catenarum? Retulere exactores effe tributorum, quae tam ex
pecuniis, quam ex impuberibus proveniunt. Exhorrui nefarias decu-
mas, et contumeliam.
•
!
Didici tunc morem fuiffe olim quinto quoque anno hoc impuberum
tributum legere. Nunc et fecundo et tertio, idque feverius quam pro
lege confueta corripi enim etiam vetitos, pacifcique pretio avaritiae gra-
tia, eoque extorto denuo reftitui. Quo fit ut mifera plebes, audito hu-
jufmodi exactorum emiffio, ubi eofdem adeffe fenferunt in fylvis abdunt
liberos, vel amandant alio donec ea lues praeterierit. Qua inclementia
4 C
non
[562]"
2
good mudan, ushu
. }
い
​non utuntur victoriarum initiis, fed poft, ubi longius, protulerint finiunt
pomœria, & jam adepta bene conftituerint, Expendant hæc qui Turca-
rum fceptra expetunt, & jis clementiam erga genus noftrum ineffe cre-
dunt. Du&ti autem funt hoc fuco et Graeci, et Myf, et Thraces, et
reliqui quique prius fubacti. Nunc jam ad flos quoque tranflata eorum
potentia reliquos omnes protrivere. Sed redeo. Trajecto amne Morava,
paulloque ultra provecti, montem Lucavizam, quem e Scardo monte ab
Illyriis in Myfiam ufque procurriffe puto, coepimus feandere, qui non
quod arduus, quod acclivis, & difficili via fit infamem vulgo effe affir-
månt, fed quod numquam careat latronum frequentia. Vidimus in hoc
tractu in finiftra ora amnis Moravae verfus Danubium duos clim nobiles
Comitatus Branicievo, feu Brancio alterum vocatum Hungaris, alterum
Cuciaevo excelfo monte praeditum, cujus etiam partem praeterivimus.
Montis inde Lucavizae trium ferme milliarium jugum jam ut dictum eft
initum, et proſpere fuperatum: defcendimus ad Jagodnam oppidum po-
fituni in
in planitie rotunda, fpaciofa, et corona prope lenium montium,.
hoc excepto Lucavizae, circumdatum gaudet optimi foli, & pulcherri-
mi fitus conditionibus, et amne Morava, cui in dextra parte adjacet.
Hoc in oppido domus erat Baly-beghi cognomento Kucink, qui Stepha-
num Mailadum fraude Petri Moldavorum Vaivoda interceptum in Tur-
ciam captivum abduxerat. In quibus domibus, quae jam fatis collapfae,
et defōlatae fuerant, ea nocte hofpitati fumus..
•
I f
2
4
*
گیا
rauyng
JOBU NETnoldc
jp postigst
DCUC I
יל
Augufti quinta movimus Jagodna, ufique ea die facili via, fed aeftu
perquam moleftiffimo, ad pagum Rafgni nuncupatum. promovimus.
Qui pagus fitus eft in vr milliario a Jagodna fub colle memorofo,
dictufque incolis Rafgni, hoc eft veruta, quod ea loci
propter duo-
rum montium arctiorem invicem concurfum poftremi Rafcianorum
Principes, dum incurfionibus Turcarum intime etiam pro
pro foribus
Zmiderovii, uftimae fuae ditionis perfugii validius premerentur (quod
Lazari temporibus fuiffe memorant, quem ab Amnrathe magno Turca
conftat effe occifum úna die cum Miloffo Kobilith) obicem defcatarum
arborum ramis earumdem mucronatis mutuoque nexu implicitis ac veluti
veruta in adverfos hoftium incurfus verfis (Cervos appellavere veteres)
objecerant; ifque pagus tametfi antea alio nomine fuiffet praeditus, poftea
tamen
}
[ 5637]
م
}
tamen crebris hoftium irruptionibus vaftatus ac deletus eft. Succeffa
inde temporis, quo jam fubjugata ea regione Turcis parebant omnia,
idém per veteres colonos reftitutus quemadmodum mutarat dominum ita
mutavit & dömen; Maſque eft ab his cervis in verutorum formam fáf-
tigiatis' Rafge, quod vocabulum Illyricum eſt, rat ruszos if uti
O QUELIN 201
t
Ladureening to cingen
#
Proinde hoc primum loco, hofpite noftro nobis referente, didicimus
viam qua pergebamus ftratam effe in Romanum morem, et Trajanam
appellari, fumereque initium apud Belgradum, et ad Conftantinopolim
definere.
}
$ 1
{
Miratus fum tanti Imperatoris memoriam adhuc apud tam rudes bar-
baros fupereffe. Verum non animadverfa hac via a Belgrado ad hunc
pagum, vel quod fit alio tranſlata, vel terra obruta, diligentius illam
obfervavi deinceps, et comperi rem ita effe. Porro eadem via conftrata
eft lapide non quadrato neque grandi ſed,mediocri, eoque qui ubique
obvius fit. Ejus autem latitudo ix eft paffuum foliti humani inceffus,
nec alibi ufquam partem vel fruftum illius integrius, & exactius vidi-
mus quam in exitu ab oppido Nys, quod erat longum paffus circiter
CXL. In locis aliis modo a dextra, modo a finiftra, fruftim occurrit,
apparetque per intervalla, quod partim obtrita, & disjecta fit, partim
luto obruta, & fruticibus haufta eft, adeoque tam nobile, ac perpetuum
opus male eft intellectum, ut etiam vitetur fæculi hujus viatoribus, ne-
que alio viatore quam pedite calcata, idque imbrium dumtaxat tem-
pore.
اما
}
*
Sexta inde Augufti, trajecto jam, & a tergo bis relicto amne Morava,
venimus ad oppidum Nys, quod olim Neffus vocabatur & fuit non ob-
fcura Civitas. Nunc mercatorum tantummodo frequentia, ruinarum ag-
geribus, & proftratae, ac late jacentis urbis cadavere memorabilis. In
qua quæ veterum Romanorum elogia lapidibus infculpta reperi, dedita
opera veftigata, & tranfcripta hic fubjunxi memoriæ caufa, & tuæ bene-
volentiæ gratia.
4 C 2
( 1 )
[ª¿564 ]
F
M.
{ ( રે )
Mo.
AMITVÄĊAPÍTÖLI →
X NO EX BOTO P
ZUMAL
محسن
NICA HERME
PRO SALUTE
DOMINI NO
ŠTRI
MEIS
AF
TIVAS
( II
I. 0. M.
APRO. S. D. N.
AVG, M. VLPI.
MARTINUS STR.
COS LEG. VII. CI
V. R. FUSCo. ET
DEXTRO COSS.
Autsy a’nemusom sagib tul si sot
>
-wenam erdon & stet ni chande
cemebeli 1- whis!
I
3260
stof ! mc ionsbiggo D. 1.M.) [
yer d)
MI. O. M.
* PRO SA? DD.T
NİN, DAVGG.
JAVR, GAIVS
MIL. LEGVH.
>
+
STR COS. Pos.
( )
D.
M.
VLP. AELIA
NVS VIX.
ANN. XXXV.
ATILIAE INGE
NUÆ CONIVGI
B. M. P.
altes
IQ, M. FVL.
SET IVN, REG
«Va_pi75qG¡JIMLI VINDICIA….her Mamp:ET.DEO
ETDEO LIE
2019 VET VIX. ANN. LX.
WAR ET AELIAE
2
SERE
}
RONAE EIVS, MIX. ´AN.
27 XXX G. IVLI. HER..
ご
​9 30502MOCORANICE G
$
20 EoFLORUS VESTRI
Stroblog elvs, JET. TZITZIS 3
छे
P LIBERTI. ET AELIUS
*
*
2. FECVNDVS COS
MVS, B. M. F. C.
A
23 ET HILA REG
G. IVL SERVAN
~ DVS VETJET
NVMISIUS
1
FL
1
7200. ab Loup 2 h
(syn hav og
V
VĖ 20001 201LT
at
M
1. 0.
DEPVLSORIO
ali abisa?
÷
(VIII)
10565 1
(+₂ VILI
)
x )
{
M.
M D
M.
CM.
#
M. O.
PRO SAL. DD. NN.
SAVGG. MAR.
VVAES MIL.
LEG. III. SIR. COS.
C
1.
G
PO.
(ix)
DEABVS
PLACIDI, FAV.
VLP. LAETUS
EVERSU
EX VOTO:
15V,~ PRO LIB.
P
TA
C. AVRELI. RVFINA
VIXIT ANN. XXX.
TOL VALERIANUS
CAPRINI CVL-
TORI. B.
CONIVGI PIEN
TISSIMAE FA
CIENDUM CVRAVIT
(xi)
1. 0. M.
CAPITOL
INO DEO
ULP. RVF. EX
T
VO:
>
PO
Plures & infcriptiones ejufmodi, & alia fcitu digna monumenta vetuf
tatis hujus Urbis invenire potuiffemus, fi diutius in eadem nobis manen--
di, & liberitis luftrandi facultas fuiffet data. Nam paffim et fundamen-·
ta veterum murorum e terra prominentium oftendit, & oppidanorum rara:
ferdu
eft, quæ aliquem non habeat lapidem Romani operis indi-
cem. Verum non ultra ibidem immorati, quam tres ultimas ejus diei
horas quo appulimus, et noctem infequentem, prohibiti interim etiam a
comitibus itineris, ne pro arbitratu noftro vagaremur, vix hæc pauca
corripuimus verius quam colligimus. Igitur ommiffis his redeo ad
Nys, quod de inceps Neffum cum antiquis nominabo, fitumque ejus
pro virili partè mea defcribere conabor, fed paullo pofterius, ubi-
prius totius hujus ipfius oræ qua. proceffimus a Belgrado pofitionem
demonftrabo, confideratis montibus, campis, Aluminibus, & aliis quæ
huc facere videbuntur; fumeturque hujus confiderationis initium a
Scardo Monte, qui juxta v Tabulam Europe Prolemæi junctus eft ab.
occidente
[ 566 ]
1
k
*
1
occidente montibus Bebiis, a meridie vero Orbello ne ulterius, comme-
morem ab uíque ipfis Pyrenæis, a quibus omnes fumunt originem qui
Catena Mundis appellantur, quod uno ordine ab.occafu in ortum pro-
vecti donec Scardum attigerint, inde a Scardo ad meridieïn ducti in
Pontum fupra Mefembriam civitatem definunt.Cæterum ubi Scardus
a Bebiis contiguis recefferit, quicquid eft per Dalmatia regiones, per
Bofnam, Herzegovinam, et demum in reliquæ ejus plaga Illyrica
montium ufque Belgradum, & Zmiderovium, et medios curfus fluminis
Moravæ, hoc totum Scardi eft, tefte eodem Ptolemæo in Tabula xx,
Et hucuique, quemadmodum antea dixi eum ramos per tot regiones
extendere, progreffus, Danubiumque in orientem profequutus, non au-
fus forfan curfu cum eodem certare in meridiem fefe flectit. Ductus
inde recto margine per xx11 ferme noftra milliaria advenit ad Orbellum,
fed minime illi adjungitur, amne Morava, quem diximus Mofchium
yeteribus fuiffe appellatum, prohibitus. Ortus enim hic Morava e radi
cibus Scardi in regione occidentis in orientem primo vehitur,' eoque
curfu Șcardum fuum hoc loci dirmit, quo qui Catharum five Ragufium
ire pergunt iter agunt. Mox in feptemtrionem verfus Jagodnæ oppidi
agrum perfluit, & illinc iterum ad ortum torfus faltum Lucavizzæ, qui
in promontorii modum porrectus denuo Danubium fequi inftituerat,
circumvehitur, ac poft in priorem rediens lineam paullo infra Zmide-
rovium, 'Danubio mifcetur. Scardus vero hunc in modum cum amne
Morava, & montibus qui ultra Moravam finiftrorfum e Kuciævo ´ex-
eunt, continuoque tractu cum Orbello quadamtenus, & cum Hæmo
donec in eundem definunt in inferiore Myfia magnis campis, & ferti-
libus interjectis, quos medios Trajana via infidet, hic coactus definere
nobis & de Orbello, et de oppido Neffo dicendi latius caufam fecit.
{
!
7
J
1
£
Sed;, & Orbellus non ultra XVIII milliaria verfus eandem plagam
recta linea progreffus Izcare amne, qui Ptolemæo Ciabrus dicitur, a
conjunctione Hæmi prohibetur. Verum ad Neffum redeo. -
+
$
Civitas olim fuit non incelebris, fi et fitum ejus confideres, et ruinarum
cumulos; eique fuit nomen Neffo fecundum Ptolemæum, ab amne
$
Neffo,
[~567]
Neffo, qui eandem pofitionem feu curfum habens quem etiam Morava
oritur in Orbello monte qua eft meridiei oppofitus flexufque inde ad ori-
entem per interftitium quo Hamus, et Orbellus disjunguntur per op
pidum Neffum labitur paulloque fpatio unius milliaris illinc, curfu pro-
vectus cóndit fe in Moravam non multo infrac eat unguitias, quibus
Scardus ad Orbellum non eft admiffus.
←
}
7
1 !
1
Sub hoc igitur Orbelli initio fitum eft Neffum oppidum loco plano,
& fatis amoeno, nullo tamen decenti ordine vicuum diftincto, et nif
mercatoribus abundaret, & antiquæ urbis tanta veſtigia haberet, vici
fpecie effet.
1
{
*
Montium autem, quos dixi a Kuciævo Comitatu provenire, noſque
Conftantinopolim pergentes a finiftra comitabantur fpatio largiore quam
quos in dextra habebamus, nomina confequi non potuimus partim ob
celeritatem itineris, partim ob barbariem incolarum, & quod non uno
vocitentur nomine. Verum longo tractu ab agro Sophiano ulterius curfu
inftituto promoti Hæmo junguntur, et in ejufdem etiam nomen tranfe
unt, quod quum ad Hæmum pervenero pluribus enodabo.
#
}
Cæterum quod adhuc ad fitum Neffi attinet, nec prætereundum mihi
effe duxi, montes præfati quos diximus nobis pergentibus dextra læva-
que exiftere, hoc eodem loci in rotunditatem quandam theatralem lon-
gamque quantum duo milliaria noftra circumagere poffent infimul coe-
unt, et addunt eidem oppido non exiguum decorem.
Proinde apud Neffum die etiam vir ob equorum laffitudinem exacta,,
octava inde diſceffimus: emenfique eo fpatio, quod vix iv millia paffuum
faciebat, appulimus ad faltum Cunovizzam ætate noftra appellatum,.
qui ut eft arduus et longus, ita et difficilis eft præfertim curribus ob
lapidum frequentiam, viæque anguftias, crebrifque et nimium repente:
incurvatis gyris interfectas..
Hic
*
1
[568]
·
આ સાં
Hic faltus fimili modo atque Lucavizza e Scardo inftar promontori
protenfum eft ex Orbello in ortum, videturque etiam ipfe appetiffe con-
junctionem montium eorum, qui nobis erant finiftrorfum, cupiens latius
evagari. Nello tamen, et ipfe ut Morava Lucavizza juxta Pyroth op-
pidum, et Arcem ejufdem nominis deftitutam labente longius ab itinere
noftro a finiftris repreffus hic finem fixit Cunovizza. Neffus vero ulte-
ritis lapfus indit nomen oppido, poftea ut jam ante diximus intrat in
Moravam.
+ 7
!
ૐ ન
7
3 A
1
>
ง 1
ร
At nos ea die initia tantum faltus Cunovizzæ peragrati venimus ad
Pagum Zuha Clyffura, merito et Bulgaris, et Rafcianis Zuha Clyffura,
hoc eft ficca rupes nuncupata, qui locus et vilis, et egenus eft. Cæte-
rum hic primum quo ornatu decorant fefe Bulgaricæ mulieres vidimus,
ifque nobis mire ut fimplex ita levis et fane deridiculus vifus eft: nifi
fi hac ipfa fimplicitate oppreffam gentem a Turcis, et imprimis agreftem,
vixque fe homines effe agnofcentes excufabimus. Nec de veſte eorum
loquendum eft, quæ eft omnino villofa, afpera, et vilis, qualem fortafle
gauſapinam veteres habuere, tantumque manicæ et pectoralia indufiorum
craffiore ſerico, eoque verficolore variegata. Capitis, et colli, et aurium
monilia perpendenda diligentius. Crines a fronte difcriminali facto in
tenues, et crebras tricas colligunt, ductoque earundem tricarum fic or-
dine collectarum margine per tempora, et fupra aures, additaque etiam
illis ex ftaminum laneorum in crinium colorem tinctorum quædam quafi
fupplementa eifdem adhibent, ut appareant copiofiores: rejiciunt in
tergus, et in unum quoddam velut rete aftringunt, et demittunt infra
cingulum. Hoc virgines. Maritatæ coactis crinibus altius, vittæ pof
trema varie fericata demittunt loco crinium ab occipite. Reliquà quæ
dicentur utriufque communia.
}
Pileos habent ut lances ex tenuiffimis virgulis factos ita ut ea pars,
quæ apud nos caput obtegit et fuperne eft claufa, apud hos aperta eft
fummoque capiti imponitur parte latiore in cœlum verfa, perinde ac fi
veftis fimbrias humeros fupra attolleres, humeralia ima tenerent nudis
omnino crinibus fubtus apparentibus, adeo ut quiddam fimile eft
Ægyptio
-
}
t
[ 569 ]
f
A
Ægyptio diademati, quod in difci morem planum eft. Cæterum hic
ipfe pileus lineo, & candido panno omni ex parte circumvolvitur, or
naturque ubique exterius partim affutis partim appofitis quibufdam ve-..
luti numinis plumbeis, æreis, vitreis, & id genus multis aliis ex pellu
centibus rebus, nihili alioqui, fed ad omnem motum crepitantibus,
Ad hoc et capiti nihil non ex omni genere tum florum tum herbarum,
quæ habent quippiam gratiæ peculiaris. Uvas præterea, et glandes,
& bacchas, et fimilia indunt in circuitum. Aures vero quaterno, &
quino loco vulnerant punctim, appenduntque eis plumbeas inaures,
pondéreque longe graviores quam valentes pretio. Habent fimili ex
materia manicas, et dextrocheria; fed feniores femminæ, et promifcue
tam virgines quan vetulæ anulos æneos plures; ima omnino internodia.
illis onerata. Cæterum gerunt et torques, fed non aureos, vel argenteos,
in quibus præcipuum locum habent conchæ quædam marinæ diverf
generis, poft orariæ baccæ noftri moris e vitro factæ. His fuccedunt
nolæ, quas hos alligamus accipitribus; has fequuntur nummi calcula-
torii ærei Rhenenfes, & frufta thoracis hamati ex chalybe, & demum
quicquid
ufpiam lucidi occurrerit torquibus apponunt, & collo pluribus
fpiris aggerunt. Nec uno ejufmodi, torque contentæ quæ funt in pago
magis infignes duos, tres, et quatuor geminant, adeo, ut quamplurimæ
nobis obftarent de nobis mirabunda, et nos de illis, deque his eorum
ornatibus: una quæfivit an noftræ mulieres tam pulchre ornarentur? Be-
atae quae noftros luxus ignorant, et fuos in rebus quae funt nullo im-
pendio ponunt, nec minus fua paupertate contentae funt quam noftrae
fuis divitiis.
>
t
*
}
Nona die Augufti, praeterito, et vifo tantum fub finiftris montibus
praeter quos Neffus labebatur oppido Pyrotto, Arceque ejufdem nomi-
niš vētuſta, `et deftituta, quae cujus fuerit antiquitus incolae dicere ne-
ſciverunt, ad pagum Czarevo Brod nuncupatum venimus, de quo di-
cendum nihil eft.
Decima poft relicto pago Czarevo Brod fimili difficultate, viae ufi fu-
mus quả in faltu, nifi quod aſcenfum non habuimus. Paucis enim inde
evecti
4 D
[ 570 ] :
1
1
*
ཨཏྭཱ ཎྞེ ཏྠོ དྡྷམསནྟི
P
evecti panibus in anguftias duorum montium, quae quaff Claufträ fàluti
jam definenti fubjecta funt, devénimus. In quibus praeter Höffören in-
ferne lapidum, et aquarum a fateribus montium et bitie hemorofam
folitudinis ingratam fpeciem nihil cernentes, hifque ipfis anguftiis vi ho-
rarum dato itinere tandem in patentes campos pervenimus, qui monti-
bus collibufque in lata fpatia hine; inde per latera excurrentibus, et
multis quidem cincti, quamquam majori ex parte faxeis, calvis, et nudis
fylvis agros née gratos admodum praebent, nec frequentes incolarum:
pagos. Efto quod illic mortales folo pecore, et fatis vitam traduçunt:
ii tamen miferrime premuntur, et expilantur ઠviatoribus Turcis, unde
longius etiam à via publica fedes habent. Quo factum eft ut illa die-
egregie jejunaverimus, donec ad pagum Bellizam perducti fumus! Hinc
vero die vi Zophiam, ubi non ufi hunc ipfum diem, et infequentem.
noctem traduximus.
„hud TŪVĮ
whosdao Lis
7
2. 7
2
L
>
Ĉ
3
Eft autem Zophia campeftris civitas fine muris late et in longum pa-
teris, ac frequens aeque habitationibus ac domorum copia, et Bulgaro-
rum ingens emporium multo mercatorum concurfu celebrata, fita in
plano, fed paullo edito loco, fub monte Vitoffa incolis hominato, ad in
Orbelli montis fine habito, qua idem Orbellus ad v mille paffus ulterius
progrediens Haemo, ac Ciabto flumini propinquat." **
多
​2
ક્
Domus in ipfa nulla eft infignis, nulla ferme lapidea; omnes humiles.
et humo tenus tectae et ligneae; et fi.quae funt nobiliore ftructura ex.
formato quidem lapide factae funt fed incocto, et cuppis tantum cocti-
libus opertae. Templis dumtaxat ornata eft, Turcicis, et eminentibus
corum columnis cochleis, quae in campanilium noftrorum morem evectae
eminentius, praebent ſpeciem urbibus non indecoram; ex quibus facer
dotes eorum horas diei, et ornandi tempora clamoribus denunciant vas
lidiffimis tam die, quam nocte. Nec aliis in aedificiis moleftiorem cu-
ram ponunt quam Templorum, Balneorum, Pontium, et publicorum
Hofpitiorum, quae Kervenzarai vocant, quafi Caravanarum Palatia;
contenti in reliquum ab cœli tantum injuriis tutos effe. Templa, &
Balnea, et Pontes diligenter, & aeternitati,. ex quadrato lapide quadrata
conftruunt,
براون
[ 57 ]
1
conftruunt, eaque, rotundis plumbatis Cubis cooperiunt forma a Graecis
et a Romanis accepta. Nec frontem Templorum, hoc eft fanctuaria,
orienti, fed meridiei opponunt, cochleas Africo, quae eft plaga inter
meridiem, & occafum, eafque ibidem x numeravimus.
al mobart **9*****
"
<
}
**
{
{
1
innom top alan ng mid 16 Hones
19 Urbem autem hanc vetuftam effe-et Ulpianum, olim fuiffe vocatam
yelex Ptolemaei pofitione judico, quam in Dardania ponit, cujus Dar-
daniae nulla jam exiftit memoria. At Zophiae apparent antiquitatis
veftigia ex ruderum copia, quum etiam numifmata Romana eruat, et
moniorum non paucas oftendat particulas. Eft praeterea in ea des
facra Graecae ftructurae, et praeftanti magnitudine, quae nunc in ufu
nullo eft, paucaque loqui de illa cogor, quia videre non vacavit. Cae-
terum hoc tantum-incolae retulerunt. Graecum fuiffe Imperatorem qui
quum tutelare Numen una cum uxore divam Sophiam, habuiffet, mari-
tus Conftantinopoli, uxor Ulpiani Templa illi condidere, ab eoque
tempore Ulpiani fupreffo nomine Zophiae fucceffit. Fluvium autem
haber bipartito divifum propter molendina, quæ intra urbem pofita
funt, & ab ipfa urbe nomen obtinuit, qui magnus non eft, nifi quum
imbrius intumefcit. Nos alterum ejus curfum in urbis limine ficca rota
pene, alterum parvo ponte pertranfiimus, oriturque in jugis Vitoffe
montis, & in Ciabrum cadit paullo, infra Civitatem.
2
ར
Verum hinc xtr profecti Augufti ad milliare unum Pannonicum in
Clabrum amnem antiquis, nobis Izcarem dictum incidimus, ibidemque
initium Hæmi montis attigimus. Porro ortus Ciabrus in Orbello ad
radices meridiem fpectantes in orientem primum labitur, mox in fep-
temtrionem verfus Orbellum ipfum ab Hæmo dividit, & in Zophianos
campos erumpens fub ipfa Civitate currit præbetque non alia illi com-
moda quam pifcium, idque citra magnam copiam. Poft paullo infra
Aluta oftium e' Tranfalpina ab Tranfylvania venientis Danubium ingre-
ditur
>
Izarem autem Ciabrum effe non difficili conjectura affequutus fum.
Primum quod juxta pofitionem in Ptolemæo hujus fluminis, aliud flumen
4 D 2
nullum
真善
​{
[ 572 ]
}
Y
nullum eft,deinde quod moderni, quoque incolæ hune ipfum amnent,
& urbem Zophiam terminum ponunt inter Myham fuperioren etrinfe
Fiorem cum Thracia, quemadmodum et Ptolemeys-libs -de fitu harum
Provinciarum fcribens, & Izcarem vocant, ut jam diximus. Cæterum
flumen Chryſio noftro Tranſylvano, quema Sebego Sebefanum appel-
Jant Chryfum, pari eft magnitudine, fed nifi interventu imbrium ac re-
foluione vivium. E. Alioquin ubique facile trajicitur citra et pontem &
navim Repente tamen quum incrementum acceperit furit, adeoque ra-
pidum ferunt, ut ne lapideum quoque pontis jugum admittat, eaque
cauſa ligneo Zophiani conjungunt. Verum quotannis, eo excuffo iden
tidem illis reficitur..
A
+
› Ab Izcare ad Tarnavo pagum promovimus, qui eft ad radices montis
Hæmi, ut confcendi incipit, habetque rivum exiguum, et ignobilem nec
in tanti ut in literis ponatur; quamquam quidem in Nova Tabula apud
Ptolemæum appofuerint, pinxerintque currentem in Danubiumi quum in
Izcarem influat, addito illi etiam lacu in medio, quum nos ne ipſum.
quidem confpexerimus, tanta ficcitate exaruerat.. Morite prætereà im-
minente conſcenſo, et incolis perquifitis diligenter de hoc iplo lacu, nee
vifu eo latiffime protenfo affequuti fumus, nec incolarum relatti, quem
dixere lacum inibi effe nullum.
190 4.7
* On colnet
3
090
Ex Tarnavo ad Hæmi primos colles acceffimus, qui adeo afperi fuere
et incommodi, quamquam non ardui et eminentes, ut in fuperandis non
fine periculo rotarum per duo milliaria fudaverimus donec ad Vaccharel
pagum cum occidente fole evafimus, ubi ampla eft planities alpibus
interjecta, et pluribus circum per radices earum' pagis coronáta. Neć
aliter eadem planities fuga eft quam area quæpiam in Civitate, adeo.
gráta videtur afpectu. Cæterum pagani hujus loer referebant nullos
prorfus prifcis temporibus ibidem colonos habitaffe propter latronum
frequentiam, eaque etiam caufa viatores quoque in agnien coire oporte-
bat quum illac erant tranfituri. Poftea, quo tempore Belgradum nobis.
ademptum eft, Paffæ cujufdam induftria Solymanus Princeps incolas
collocavit, neque id folum hoc loco, fed per totam eam viam qua
7
群
​!!
Hæmi
[ 573 ]
*
2
J
Hæmis juga tranfcenduntur. Erinfuper paffim locis magis infamibus:
vicinos Pagos juffit cuftodiendi gratia excubias apponere, quas finguli
pagani ordine inter fe partiuntur ftipele communi exhibita: Hæ autem
excubiæ fic aguntur.Viæ publicæ locum in montibus deligunt 'emi-
nentius imminentem fic, ut et Viam ipfam habeat fab¹ðëulišÿ´ét latiffimè
quaquaverfus commode poffit profpicere; m eoque cafula ftramiñéa
conſtructa unus dumtaxat homo excubát. Nec aliud ejus officium eſt,
quam ut ubicumque vel in via vel in fylva viderit homines tympanum.
pulfat, innuitque eo figno hominibus memoratis animadverfos effe ab
excubiis. Jam-fi forte fortuna quopiam loco latrocinium fuiffet com
miſſum, ejuſdem loci mox incolæ fub quæftionem coguntur, et niſi aut
faffi fuerint latrocinium fuos homines commififfe, aut oftenderint quinam
commiferint, aeque poenis mulctantur ac fi ipfi revera commififfent.
Quo factum eft ut alpes illæ fecure hoc tempore fuperentur, etiam pau
gis comitibus: dum quilibet pagus, ubi antea ipfe latrones emittebats,
nunc metu pœnæ territorium fuum cuftodiat. Sed jam ad reliqua.
17.
ご
​า
Tertia decima die poft a Vaccharel Pago moti primum memoratam:
planitiem percurrimus; inde pedetentim in colles, mox in montes alios
aliis, altiores incidimus, per quos in fumma enitentes conatu maximo.
tandem ad ardua, confragofa, &. fylveftria prorfus evecti, ægre in cacu
men, et fumma juga die illa tota itinere continuato pervenimus: ubi
duo Pagi funt uno milliari noftro inter fe diftantes, quorum priori Zuha
Clyffura, Vetren pofteriori nomen eft. Et in utroque extant quædanr
vetuftatis, monumenta, In Zuha Clyffura primum in ipfo Pago porta
eminet operis lateritii fimplex, & fupra quadratos lapides fita, magnitu-
dineque ampliori multo quam pro ufu noftri fæculi. Extra Pagum ad.
duos fagittæ jactus Arx fuit, quæ in acuto colle condita, qui ab ima
valle duorum montium altiffime a lateribus, viæ impendentium medius
affurgit. Manifeſte apparet tutelæ cujufdam caula caftellum ibidem, faç
tum fuiffe, quum & anguftiæ illæ natura fortes fint, & alia in parte.
nulla commodius via deduci potuit vel veterum judicio, qui fi alibi quo;
piam loco mitiora juga reperiffent, non eft dubium quin ftuduiffent
commodis viatorum..
ction
Sune
>
3
"
: ་
Sed.
F
574 1
t
if
$
{
t
Sed in Vetren quoques Pago fimilitin jugo iifdem montibus interjecto
quadratæ arcis extant ruinæ fuper setiam terram evectæ, cujus longi-
tudo XL paffibus, totidem datitudo protendebatur; muri craffitudo trium
fuit. Nec alia ædificiorum veftigia vidimus, nifi per pagotundoea,
• quæ
late circum ruderibus erant conftrata. Et credibile eft Hemi hic
fuiffe clauftra, quæ ad repellendos hoftium tranfgreffus: fuere communita,
quemadmodum. de Thermopylis, de portis Cafpiis, Albanis, Zagri, &
fimilibus legitur apud Geographos. Verum incolæ noftri ævi, ignari
bellorum veterum, quæ inter Græcos, & Thraces, Macedonas, & Ro-
manos fucceffivis temporibus per eas Europæ partes, viguerunt, ad fua
tempora cunctas accomodant, & trahunt ejufmodi vetuftates. Unde et
Clyffuræ Pagum Clyffuram alii Novak debeglie vocant, alii Marci Kra-
glievith Regulorum Græciæ, eifque, quoniam per tot fucceffiones. in his
regionibus dominiorum ipfi quoque illas tenuerunt præfidiis, coca ve-
tuftatis barbaries originem etiam locorum adfcribit. Sed fallitur, quia
veterum eft utrumque opus. Obſcurum tamen judicatu Græcorum,
an Thracum, an Macedonum, an Romanorum exiftat, quod argumen-
tum nullum aderat, ex quo id perfpici potuiffet. Nifi fi Philippo patri
Alexandri Magni afcribatur, qui Philippos, feu mavis Philippopolim,
aut Trimontium (trino enim nomine utitur), urbem proxime condidit,
idque partim contra hoftes, partim propter utilitatem vectigalium, qui
a mercatoribus accipiebantur, qui fecure ea via utebantur ex Thracia
in Myfiam, et hinc in Thraciam freti ejufmodi præfidiis commeabant,
Nec nos puto fallit ifta conjectura: Strabo etenim in vii de hoc ipfo
facit mentionem, quum de Strymone amne loquitur, ad quem Philippus
eandem urbem condiderat, Ejus verba, hæc funt. Quoniam Philip-
pus eximio captus ftudio ut hæc fibi loco vendicaret maxima ex metallis,
et reliqua locorum ubertate vectigalia conftituit." Ego hic Pantaliam
municipium fuiffe arbitror; quantumque ex Ptolemæi pofitione poffum
colligere, affirmare etiam audeo. Aliorum tamen fit judicium, qui
propius rei cognitionem accefferunt: nofque pergamus ad alia.
។
14
ふ
​<
A
A
300
}
Dum hæc luftramus in hoc jugo loca, cernebamus a dextra hobis
Hæmi altiffimos vertices ingentibus circa ubique aliis montibus adjacen-
tibus,
1
[ 575 I
1
1
tibus, et tantam altitudinem perinde atque humeris fuftinentibus, et at
tollentibus, quæ maximis nebulis tenebantur. Cogitavi illic effe fum-
mos apices memorati Haemi, quia ex eo jugo quem jam fuperaveramus
nullos videbamus eminentiores. Rogavi paganos quonam: nomine tam
illi vocarentur montes adeo in coelum ardua, horridaque altitudine con-
tendentes quam ille, in quo tunc eramus. Refpondere hunc Kniffavam,.
ex illis alios Thecchyam alios Vafilizzam vocari, utrinque ambigue;
adeo hic agreftes mortales degunt, qui, quantum et ex iis et ex aliis
cognofcere potuimus a quibus locorum nomina exigebamus, ne terrarum
quidem quas inhabitant notitiam habent. His igitur. contentus hactenus
nominibus, quia mora non dabatur perquirendis verioribus deftiti ab hac
moleftia, & paganos ablegavi. Inde converfus per me ad confideran-
dum montis totius ftatum juxta ea quae jam pridem et in tabulis vide-
ram Ptolemaei, et in aliis legeram Geographis, perfpexi multa vera
effe quae de illo fcripferunt veteres. Non praetermittam tamen quin,
et ipfe aliquid de eo mittam in literas, idque non propter ipfom montem
potiffimum, fed etiam propter alia quae ad defcriptionem attinet noftri
itineris..
-་
༣
t
3
4
Igitur ubi hoc jugum Kniffavae fuperatur, ad Vatren Pagum appelli-
tur, qui locus ultimus eft hujus tranfitus, ex eoque brevi lenique clivo
in Philippicos campos defcenditur, et ad Strymonem amnem acceditur.
Mons ipfe hoc loco ab ipfo fummo vertice, de quo fupra memoravi.
mus, pandit ſe velut in duo brachia, finiftroque orienti expofitio, in
Pontum dirigit, dextro vero primum méridiem, mox occidentem petit
ad ufque maris Ægaei litora. Ipfa fummitas verticis nobis à tergo lin-
quitur, quam quidam Geographi in tantam altitudinem elatam effe me-
moriae prodiderunt, ut ex eo Pontus, & Adria, et Ifter, & quicquid
locorum interjacet confpiciatur. Quod quum Polybius quoque Hifto-
ricus idipfum confirmaret, Strabo in vii minime eum vera dicere coar-
guit, dicens id effe impoffibile propter multas aëris denfitates, quae ob-
fcurant aciem noftri vifus, et propter fpatium nimis longum. Multis
tamen perfuafum eft id ita effe. Unde et Philippus Demetrii, & Perfei
pater hac opinione ductus Haemum confcendit, ftudio circumfpiciendi
A.
regiones
[ 576 ]
regiones & loca, per quae facillime rationes belli gerendi contra Roma-
nos inire poffet: quod ludibrio non caruit, quamvis eximius Princeps
vitare voluerit adjecto vulgatæ opinioni fuo teftimonio. Lege Livium;
Libro x. Dec. 1v.
Nos XIV Augufti digreffi ab Haemo campos Philippicos ingredimur,
et currente nobis dextra Strymone fluvio vix duobus milliaribus confectis
occurrit pons, tenui ut tunc erat tempus caniculae amni impofitus, quo
perfpecto cura diligenti, dignum defcriptione judicavi.
Ex quadrato lapide conſtructus longus eft cxvIII paffus, latus minus
IX. Quinque habet fornices, medias III magnas, et altas, extremas
utroque in cornu mediocres, et humiles; fed majorum duae collapfae
trabibus erant reparatae, & quacunque fuit integer communi lapide ftratus
eft, habetque a lateribus ex quadratis lapidibus ad umbilicum hominis
erecta latera, quae a cafu tutantur tranfeuntes, dum conferti concurfu
inter fe ftiparentur, et praeterea ut effet locus initiendi iis qui amnem
caetraque fubjecta circum oculis profpectarent. In eo nulla vifitur in-
ſcriptio; cæterum opus Turcium eft. Fluvius cui eft impofitus Topol-
niza vocatur, fuitque ex his Haemi montibus, quos a finiftra in Pontum
directos effe dixeram, moxque a ponte vix duobus millibus paffuum
lapfus condit fe in Strymonem.
Poft occurrit oppidum Tartar-pazarciz barbaris dictum, quod Em-
poriolum fignificat, locus fatis fordidus, et in celebriore fui parte ftabu-
lis armentorum, ac ferrariis officinis conturpatum; quo praeterito, ad
Pagum Govedar ripae Strymonis junctum promovimus, atque ibi noc-
tem confumpfimus.
Die Augufti xv e Pago Govedar Philippo, qui et Philippopolis a
Philippo conditore dicitur, praeterivimus, et ad Pagum Cognuus nomi-
natum promovimus, quia ibi eo die et nocte hofpitari malo conducto-
rum ingenio non fuimus permiffi. Mediam tantum pertranfivimus.
Verum,
. [ 577 ]
}
Verum, quantum parvo fpatio temporis eandem urbem perfpicere potu
Imus, quod prætextu annonæ vefpertinæ comparandæ extorfimus, &
pauxillum in altera ejus parte qua exieramus moram traximus, pulcher-
rimo in loco, in latiffimis campis, & fertiliffimis fita eft. Turcis voca-
tur Philibe: Thracibus, Bulgaris, & reliquis linguæ Illyricæ homi-
nibus, quibus eft poffeffa potiffimum dicitur Ploudin. Romani etiam
Trimontium nominavere a tribus monticulis, qui eo loci pene rotundi,
in acumen evecti, & junctim directo ordiné pofiti in patenti planitie per-
inde ac fcopuli quidam e mari eminent; adjacet his quartus etiam, fed
non æque editus, ifque in linguæ modum porrectus, ac finuatus ea ex
parte qua Strymonem refpicit, et urbem recepit, in dextro latere Stry-
monis fedet una cum aliis. Urbs autem ipfa magnum occupat fpatium,
nec disje&as habet domos ut pleræque aliæ, quamquam hortis immixtas,
et latiores quam altiores pro gentis moribus. Si quid infigniorum habeat
ædificiorum, quod de omnibus civitatibus. Turcicis dicendum eft, id
Templa, Balnea, Sacerdotum habitacula, et publica Hofpitia, quæ
Kervenzaray nominantur, vindicant fibi. Cætera omnia humilia, lutea,.
& ligno commodata, non tamen confpicua. Eo vero etiam obfcuriora,
nec inhabitanda hominibus, quod in parte qua maxime occulos habere
debèrent cœca funt, fimul cum vicis, qui nullis feneftris illuftrantur,›
ſtipati utrinque afferitiis parietibus ipfarum domorum tecta exæquanti-
bus. Quo fit ut quum per vicos ambulas folitudinem diceres, nifi quis
tibi occurreret, adeo ex feneftris nemo expicit..
ར
-
Accolunt Philippopolim præter Turcas Bulgari, & Rafciani, fed ut-
fervitia habentur. Non tamen a religione Chriftiana prohibentur. Unde
quum in hortis ad Civitatem, eadem jam pertranfita, pauxillum ut fupra
dictum eft prætextu comitibus injecto conftitiffemus annonæ gratia com-
parandæ, quod pagus quem petebamus dicebatur laborare penuria, in
Rafcianum hominem incidimus, quo.interrogato quomodo vocaretur ei
genti proximus mons, quem jam antea dixi ab Hæmi vertice prodiiffe,
& dextra nobis Ægæum mare petere, refpondit Rupzcam vocari. Inde
numquid iifdem in locis fciret extare veterum aliquas ædificiorum ruinas,
extenfa manu oftendit frufta fornicum Aqueductuum in longum fpatium,
4 E
qui-
[ $78 ]
{
/
qui ab hoc ipfo monte Rupzca fub monticulis illis tribus in eum ufque
collem quo fedet Civitas erant invecti. Miratus hoc fubjeci: & quid
opus fuit aqua peregrina, quum urbem Strymon ac fuburbia illius inter-
fluat? Refpondit, audiffe fe a majoribus nunquam fuiffe idoneum Stry-
monem ad potandum; nec modo effe poffe fi tunc non fuerit. Retulit
poſt, quum de religione quæreretur, nihil eis de hac deceffiffe, nifi quod
qui eam fuftentare, & propagare deberent, paullatim in Turcicam dege-
nerent deficientibus fenibus, & pubertate liberioris ftatus illecebris pel-
lecta;, & fimul oftenfis digito tribus monticulis, & quartum fedem ci-
vitatis quo loco Philippus arcem collocaverat, cujus apparent veftigia,
eo, inquit, in utroque vertice (duos e tribus demonftrando) duo olim
fuere ampliffina monafteria; fic enim parentes fuos a majoribus acce-
piffe: illudque, quod in primo fuerat monticulo, quum primum Fhi-
lippopolis in Turcarum poteftatem devenerat fine ullius tempeftatis, et
terræmotus interventu hyatu terræ ipfo in vertice patefacto hauftum fuiffe
Monafterium. Et nunc eo loci cavum extare, ac videri murorum fub-
merforum fummitates, ipfumque Monafterium Divæ Mariæ Virgini fuiffe
dedicatum. Monachi intus exiftentes expertes fuiffe periculi.
Aliud, quod in arcis loco erat, quum juffu Turcæ demoliretur quo
ejus ruinis aliud quippiam ædificii conderet, LXX ex iis, qui facrilegis
manibus domum Dei frangebant, fubitis mortibus per intervalla dierum
dum inftant operi fuere proftrati, miraculoque apud Chriftianos utrum-
que habitum, et mandatum memoriæ numquam interituræ fua gente in-
columi. Si in urbe moram feciffemus non eft dubium quin plura cog-
nofcere potuiffemus, quamquam quidquid ufpiam inibi veterum difi-
ciorum Turcæ repererunt, & in hodiernum diem ufque reperiunt id to-
tum in Templa, Balinea, & publica Hofpitia convertunt.
Vicus quo Civitatem tranfgreffi fumus utrinque mercatorias ftationes,
promifcueque omnium artificiorum officinas, et cauponantium tabernas
cum macellis, et hortenfium rerum cumulis erat refertus. Accefferat
quod et pavimentum ejus altius quam pro urbana mundicie, et conditi-
one temporis adeo erat luto obrutum, ac feedatum, fuligineque ac fumo
omnia
[ 579 ]
omnia circum denigrata, ut obturatis naribus præterierimus partem ejus
non ultimam.
Alluit autem Philippopolim Strymon fluvius, qui ortus in Hæmi.
montium jugis, quo loco idem recedit ab Orbello, quæ juga antea dixi-
fumma haberi, labitur per campos Philippicos lato alveo, aquis limpidis
& pifcofis, primumque ipfam Urbem Philippos five Philippopolim at-
tingit dextro latere fuburbiis ejus in finiftra relictis, ubi ligneo ponte,.
eoque longo tranfitu. Inde remotius ad finiftrum latus a via publica
evagatus, tribus milliaribus noftris poftea in eandem revertitur, in qua
Muztaffæ ponte lapideo, eoque præclari operis conjungitur. Inde cir-
cumvectus eam oram collibus exultantem abit dextrorfum verfus montes
Macedoniæ, hofque legens quamdiu in confpectum Hadrianopolis pro-
currerunt, & curfum in Auftrum retorfere ad Ægæum mare uique fuc-
cedit urbi Hadrianopolis quamproxime, eoque loci recepto amne Ton-
cia (quem putarem Neffum effe, et Ptolemæo Tonzos dictum) ab Aqui-
lone ex Hæmo monte defcendente, ac fecante ima Civitatis qua ad fub-
urbia conjungitur, in meridiem labitur, donec ad Ægæi maris appulfus
littora paullo fupra Urbem Aretufam mari mifcetur. De quo poftea..
Verum ne quid ommittatur, quod ad inftitutum opus pertineat Pontis
memorati defcriptionem faciam.
Pons longus eft paffus cccxxv, latus vIII, altus fefquihafta velitari
in medio ubi eft altiffimus; quod ad utrumque caput in declive pen-
det propter afcenfum ejus faciliorem, et pluviarum ex eo decurfum. For-
nices habet XXI, a mediis alios aliis omnes minores. Cætera ut alius,
qui eft in amne Topoliza ultra Philippopolim, nifi quod ripa alvei Pon--
tis cornua fuftinentes, et dextra, et finiftra quadrati lapidis muro qua-
tuor cubitorum altitudine quadamtenus emunitæ funt, ne vi aquarum
arrofæ folvendi Pontis caufa præbeatur..
Proſpectum eft, et pilarum firmitudini & æternitati. Sub fornicibus
quanta eft Pontis longitudo fundus fluminis fupra, & infia ipfum Pon-
tem confixus eft creberrimis vallis, & glarea exaggeratum in tumorem
4 E 2.
non
I 58.0 ]
4
non impenfe altum, fed co tenus quo quum fubita fluminis incrementa
ingruerint fundamenta pilarum ejus denudare, ac fubruere non valeant.
Ab utroque autem latere vicum habet, et viæ Trajanæ jungitur, quæ
fummo ftudio tenetur, & identidem reformatur.
Vocatur autem Muztaphae Pons ab auctore Muztapha. Hic enim
Bajazitti Principis temporibus gravi jam fenectute effectus, et opulen-
tus, quum expiandorum peccatorum gratia pro more gentis fuæ vellet
publico commodo opus aliquod condere, Ponte decrevit Strymonem
jungere, idque eo loco viæ publicæ quo, & difficilem & periculofum
tranfitum viatoribus exhibebat. Aggreffus itaque opus magnæ & molis,
& impenfae magna mente illud perfecit, facileque cum Veteribus cer-
tare poteft.
Caeterum Philippenfes, ad quos Divus Paulus Apoftolus fcribit,
hujus Civitatis erant incolae, in cujus campis pugnavit primum Julius
Caefar cum Pompejo, deinde Auguftus, & Brutus cum Caffio, tanta-
que tumulorum per totos latiffime campos erectorum cernitur copia, in
quamcumque partem oculos verteris, ut numero eos comprehendere non
facile poffis. Nec dubium eft vel praefentium indigenarum teftimonio
Ducum ac Virorum illuftrium fuiffe fepulturas. Qui mos unde origi-
nem hunc in modum fepeliendi homines fummos acceperit nunc non
fuccurrit mihi. Revera tamen fepulturas effe licet & ex Virgilio cog-
nofcere. Ait enim in 111 de funere Polydori:
Ergo inftauramus Polydoro funus, & ingens
Aggeritur tumulo tellus.
Et in vii de Cajeta nutrice Æneae:
At pius exequiis Æneas rite folutis,
Aggere compofito tumuli, poftquam alta quierunt
Aequora, &c.
Eft & in vi fimile, quod huc facit, de Palinuro:
Quod te per cæli jucundum lumen, & auras,
Per genitorem oro, per fpem furgentis Iuli,
Eripe me his invite malis, aut tu mihi terram,
Injice, &c.
Ubi
Ubi fepeliendis corporibus, dum ejufmodi tumuli excitari inciperent,
primus terram cadaveri injiciebat qui effet proximior confanguineus, vel
uxor viro, vel vir uxori: aut fi nullus horum adeffet, et res ageretur in
exercitu, Dux hoc officio pietatis, aut qui digniffimus extitiffet, vel
amiciffimus fungebatur. Unde et hic Palinurus ab Ænea, et apud
Ovidium Penelope exigit a marito ut Telemachus filius communis utri-
que extrema jufta perfolvat, quum dicat:
Ille meos oculos claudat, & ille tuos.
Verum, priufquam exeam e campis Philippicis, dicendum mihi eſt
nonnihil de hac ora terræ debeatne Thraciæ, ac Macedoniæ adfcribi.
Ptolemæus enim libro III Tab. Europe x Strymonem amnem oriri in
Montibus qui Thraciam dividunt a Macedonia. Strabo quoque, Pto-
lemæo vetuftior, idem videtur fentire in vII Libro. Trans amnem,
inquit, Strymonem ad Ponticum oftium, & Hæmum montem cuncta
funt Thracum, excepto litore quod Græci tenent. Nec diffentit Soli-
nus, qui ait inter Macedoniam, & Thraciam Strymonem facere termi-
num, eafque terras, ab Hæmo irrigare. Ad quam fententiam Lucas
etiam Evangeliſta nofter in Apoftolorum Actis, cap. xvi accedit. Na-
vigantes autem, inquit, a Troade recto curfu venimus Şamothracem,
& fequenti die Neapolim. Inde Philippos, quæ eft prima partis Mace-
doniæ Civitas Colonia. At perftante firmiter Ptolemæo, in fententiam
it idem Strabo, quum eodem ipfo libro vII dicat plerofque totam a
Strymone plagam ad Neftum ufque amnem Macedoniæ afcribere, quo
fortaffe Tonciam amnem Neftum vult effe. Solinus, qui etiam Foly-
hiftor, Rhodopem appellat Mygdonium quia eft provincia Macedoniæ
Thraciæ contermina; & Ariftoteles etiam hoc adftipulatur quando dicit,
extare in campis Philippicis Macedoniæ aurifodinas quamplures. Mela
vero Pomponius fcripfit Thraciam montes attollere Hæmum, Rhodo-
pem, & Orbellum, quum tamen totus Orbellus Myfiam infideat. Quo
igitur pacto in utramque partem id probari poffit equidem non video,
præfertim in hoc curfu itineris, & in tanta non folum novorum, fed
etiam veterum auctorum diverfitate fententiarum. Unde haud dubie
palam eft veteres quoque multa fcripfiffe, ex relatu et lectione priorum,
non
[582]
non experientia propria. Ideo nec ipfe fudabo in hoc curriculo, quum &
incolæ etiamnum varie de hoc fentiant, aliique Macedoniæ alii Thraciæ
oram hanc attribuunt; & facile futurum arbitror ut harum Provinciarum
veterum termini confundantur, & excidant fi hoc Imperium majora fumet
incrementa. Sed jam ad Strymonem, poft quem fuo loco etiam de aliis.
hujus Thraciæ partis amnibus Tonza, Neffo, Hebro, Melani, Arzo,
Athyra, & Bathynia attingemus quædam non indigna confideratione,
multifque, & veteribus et novis præterita; qui amnes hoc ordine ut nos
pofuimus Strymonem fequuti ufque ad Promontorium Chryfoceros ap.
pellatum, in quo fitum eft Byzantium, curfum in mare tenent, præter
Tonzam, qui mifcetur Strymoni. - Quare ortus Strymon in Hæmi
montis radicibus eo fere ipfo loco, in quo recedit ab Orbello, ab Izcaris
quoque fonte, quem Ciabrum veteres vocavere, ut jam a nobis antea.
dictum eft, haud multum disjungitur, eo modo quo a Rheno Danubius.
Simulac autem caput exerit tenuem admodum referunt effe incolæ, fed
quod mox diverfis rivis ex Alpium hinc inde jugis prolabentibus auctust
fit aliquanto alienis aquis amplior, quod & Pomponius Mela teftatur.
Vectus inde per multos convallium anfractus aliquot locis. per montium
finuationibus dilatatur, hoc ipfum Plinio quoque affirmante, qui dicit:
eum prius in vir fundi lacus quam curfum dirigat. De quibus tamen:
lacubus nihil nobis affirmavere incolæ. Nec his anguftiis longiore fpatio
detinetur quam bidui, fummis eidem Hæmi jugis incumbentibus, quæ
Philippo olim Regi Macedonum confcenfa,. curiofe etiam peragrata funt.
Evolutus dehinc e montium clauftris jugum, quod barbari Illyricæ na-
tionis Vetren, nos ventofum dicimus, uti fupra eft memoratum, in læva
dimittit. In dextra vero eos montes quos Vafilizam, & Zlavievi incolæ
nominant, & ab Haemo fciffi amne Strymone, nec disjuncti ab Orbello,
ut in Tabulis videre eft Ptolemaei, Philippopolim ufque ubique eundem
Strymonem comitati, poftmodum per Mygdoniam ultimam è regione
Thraciae provinciam Macedonicam in Ægaeum mare defcendunt, qua
Lemnos infula, & mons Athos, nobis Sanctus appellatus, eminent.
Lapfus autem ab ipfo ufeque fonte in orientem primis femper, & flexu-
ofis progreffibus, ubi primum prodit in plana ortum in tergo deferit,
curfumque
་
་
'
{
:
[ 583 ]
curfumque lato jam alveo, & multis aquis confpicuus in vulturnum per
Philippenfes campos dirigit. Per quos late, initio dextra ora via pu-
blicae, five Trajanae praefatorum montium ima faecundando expatiatus,
ad Philippopolim in eandem viam redit. Ibi deinde inter urbem, et
fuburbium accepto ponte ligneo verfus Haemum ad finiftra recedit, qua
per majora ejus planitiei fpatia egreffus, et longe lateque divagatus de-
nuo, in memoratam viam majore jam fui et nomine, & exiftinatione
revertitur ad Muztaphae vicum, ubi & Pontem hujus nominis a condi-
tore nuncupatum fubit. Poft iterum repetito dextro latere, & v circiter
milliaria noftra emetitus accedit tantum proxime ad Civitatem Hadria-
nopolim, qua perinde atque ex debito quodam a limine falutata, totus
in Auftrum torquetur verfus gaeum. In quo tractu duobus pontibus
acceptis, priore ligneo, pofteriore lapideo, et in via Callipolitana pofito,
mare demum fupra dictum illabitur. Hoc proinde curfu, quem ab
Haemo ad mare obtinet, nefcio an plura, verum majora recipit flumina,
quam quae recepit inter montes. Duo primum dextro latere, & utrum-
que ex montibus Bafilicis decurrentem Ztaram Richam, hoc eft anti-
quum flumen, ad Philippopolim, et Ardam paullo infra Hadrianopo.
lim: laevo deinde quinque. Topolnizam citra oppidum Tartar-pazar-
zik, ultra Jadinam, paullo poft Cruzkam, inde Gergovam, mox Ton-
zam eodem fere loco fub Hadrianopoli quo Ardam. Ubi
Ubi ponte etiam
ligneo jungitur, Tabaclar ab opificio coriariorum Turcis nuncupato,
quod ibidem exercetur propter aquarum facultatem. Nec plura difcere
potuimus, praefertim quae a dextra ora in eum incidant. Verum quo-
niam campi Philippenfes ad producendam oryzam maxime funt idonei,
eoque genere leguminis multum exuberant, Jadinae aquis potiffimum
irrigantur, quae longa jam indigenarum induftria in complures eafque
amplas paludes infufae, ac in meatus derivatae plurium amnium fpeciem
praebent. Quo fit ut mediis etiam caniculae fervoribus luto ea via
fœditur. Nomina autem Strymon tria habet: hoc primum, quod &
Graecis, et Latinis commune eft; fecundum Mariza, quod Illyricum
eft; tertium Mericz, quod Turcicum. Caeterum quum hodiernum
ejus nomen recentiores quidam auctores Hebro adfcripferunt Marizam
appellantes, minime edocti recte funt quandoquidem et Graeci, et Turcae,
et
[ 584 ]
et quaequae aliae nationes inibi incolentes Hebrum, hoc temporis Ergi-
enem vocent. Tum illi a Ptolemaeo quoque vera fua in Tabulis pofitio
non eft attributa. Alluit enim Philippopolim dextro latere, finiftro
vero Hadrianopolim. Ptolemaeus autem illum, et ab hac urbe, et ab
illa remote collocavit, quum interim & Hadrianopolim cum Philippo-
poli eandem effe Civitatem fcribat, contra clafficos auctores, et publi-
cam experientiam. Quod qui videre propriis oculis, et Tabulas ejuf--
dem Ptolemaei diligentius confideravere facile perfpicere potuerunt.
quod patefacimus. At jam ulterius.
Porro moti ex Pago Cogniis five Confthyza, quod a ftatione equorum
nomen eft fortitus, Clocodvizam xvi Augufti, hinc vero ad Hormanles.
XVII, quae duo loca fimili modo Pagi funt; & XVIII ad Pontem ac
vicum Muztaphae pervenimus. Qui tractus quoniam aridis collibus,
locifque incultis, & memorofis late patet, nihil in eo offendimus, quod.
fuiffet notatu dignum, praeter memoratum Pontem Muztaphae, de quo
jam abunde recenfuimus.
Verum xix Augufti relicto Ponte Muztaphae venimus Hadrianopo
lim terra fuperiori fimili. In quo fpatio, nec a Ponte multum longe,
vidimus dextrorfum in Strymonis ripa oppidum Ciermenium, quod ex.
aedificiorum ruinis veruftam aliquam urbem fuiffe apparebat. Nunc
Zagarenfi Zangziaccho fedes eft. Zagara autem oppidum eft ad radices
montis Haemi fitum, qua parte imminet ab ortu campis Philippicis,
totufque is tractus una cum ea parte montis praefati Zagarenfis Comi-
tatus hoc tempore appellatur, quum antiquo Praetura Beffica vocatus.
fuerit, a Beffis populis, quos veteres auctores Haemi accolas, Neffoque
amni, & Pangaeo monti, in quo fita eft Hadrianopolis, conterminos
fuiffe prodiderunt. De quo lege Ptolemaeum, &. Pangaei montis apud
Vocabularios pofitionem.
Oppidum vero Ciermenium fequitur amnis Gergova, ille quidem alveo -
exiguus, minime tamen aquarum indigus. Et mox Civitas Hadrianopolis.
FIN I S..
LIGT & I AVN
440 Feficbe Ban
488 Elastick Marke
り
​Replaced th
OCT V /003
Digital Copy
1837
ARTES
SCIENTIA
VERITAS
LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
D
PLURIBUS
TUEBOR
SI QUÆRIS-PENINSULAM AMⱭNAM`
CIRCUMSPICE
mulira
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 01679 7949