DS
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1854
A 543255

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SCIENTIA
VERITAS
OF THE
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C.PLURIBUS UNUM
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SQUAERIS PENINSULAM AMOENAME
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914.
1854
LIFE
IN THE MISSION, THE CAMP,
AND THE ZENÁNÁ.
Preparing for Publication,
A SERIES OF SKETCHES,
TWENTY IN NUMBER,
ILLUSTRATIONS OF
#
THE MISSION, THE CAMP, AND THE ZENÁNÁ.
BY MRS. COLIN MACKENZIE.

AN AFGHAN BEGUM SMOKING
2843
LIFE
IN THE MISSION, THE CAMP,
AND THE ZENÁNÁ;
OR,
SIX YEARS IN INDIA.
BY MRS. COLIN MACKENZIE.
SECOND EDITION, REVISED.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1854.
[The Author reserves to herself the right of translation]
PRINTED BY HARRISON AND SONS,
LONDON GAZETTE OFFICE, ST. MARTIN'S LANK.
INTRODUCTION.
THE following Journal was regularly forwarded,
during a six years' residence in India, to the writer's
family and friends. Events, anecdotes, and reflec-
tions were recorded as they came before her, with-
out any view to publication; and this will
account, not only for the miscellaneous character
of the work, but for the personal details with
which, in spite of her endeavours to weed them
out, it may still be too much encumbered.
The Author has been under the extreme
disadvantage of publishing at a distance from her
husband, and without the possibility of referring
to his opinion, or obtaining his sanction for either
the omission or retention of passages on which
she would have desired them. She, therefore,
protests against his being considered responsible
vi
INTRODUCTION.
for any statement she has made, and only claims
for herself the merit of an impartial desire to
speak the truth.
To this deprivation, combined with a shattered
state of health (frequent returns of fever not being
the most favourable circumstances under which to
revise a work of this sort for immediate publica-
tion) she ascribes the retention of two or three
passages, which she frankly acknowledges ought
not to have been given to the world, being
inconsistent with the great law of Christian
charity. These, together with many others, which
appeared either tedious or trivial, she has now
expunged. Many things which were at first told
her in confidence, she afterwards heard publicly
discussed by others, and then of course felt justified
in publishing them without the names of her
informants.
Distance prevented her obtaining the formal
permission of her friends for the publication of
every fact or expression which she has given on
their authority; but she has done as she would
INTRODUCTION.
vii
be done by she has printed nothing but what is
honourable to them, nor anything that she would
have objected to their publishing had the case
been reversed.
It is difficult to understand how, in these days
when every detail of life, even to a lady's dress,
finds its way to the newspapers, any one can
object to the appearance of their names at full
length, or at the open expression of kindness
and regard; yet the only complaint from a
friend has been on this score, and the writer
has therefore obliterated several passages which
she hoped would have given pleasure in the
perusal as they did in writing.
Some of the Indian papers, as might have been
expected from the character given of them in
general, have made unfounded attacks on the Work.
The author will only say, that she has violated no
confidence; she has betrayed no secret; she has
stated nothing from personal feeling (for there
is scarcely one person blamed whom she has even
seen); and there is scarcely anything on single, and
viii
INTRODUCTION.
nothing, so far as she knew, on partial authority.
As an evidence of her desire to be just, she has
expunged two anecdotes from a subsequent dis-
covery of the general want of veracity of her infor-
mant. All the facts given were openly canvassed
-most of them even in the newspapers, and she
cannot think it wrong, though it may be impru-
dent, to speak the truth without fear or favour
regarding the public acts or private wrongs of
others.
Strange to say, although two gentlemen of
undoubted honour, gallantry, and veracity, related
the story, to which the following letter refers,
exactly as it is printed; the reader will see that
Colonel Bradford's letter (and his testimony is
unimpeachable) denies that any thing of the sort
took place
LONDON,
January 1854.
*
INTRODUCTION.
ix
Written by Colonel Bradford and forwarded
to "The Englishman," and also to Brigadier
Mackenzie.
"About an hour after the battle of Aliwal com-
menced, the 1st Light Cavalry was ordered by
Brigadier Cureton to form in second line as a reserve
for the rest of the 2nd Brigade of Cavalry, which
was directed to advance and charge the left flank
of the Sikhs. Having followed the first line for a
short distance, the regiment was ordered, on the
same authority, to change front to its right, which
movement had hardly been completed, when the
Brigadier riding up to the commanding officer, and
pointing to a body of Sikh horsemen then in front
of the regiment, said, 'Now charge, and you shall
be supported.' Agreeably to this order, the whole
regiment charged at once in the direction indicated,
although the 3rd Squadron had not come into line
after the change of front, and was
at full speed to get into its place. The Sikhs did
not, however, wait for the 1st Cavalry, but made off
through their intrenched camp (which was imme-
diately in their rear), followed by the regiment at a
gallop over the intrenchments and into the camp.
"Now although the intrenchments at Aliwal were
not very formidable, they were sufficiently so to
obliged to move
α 3
X
INTRODUCTION.
break the regularity of any charge, as several horses
fell in crossing them. They were also very unequal in
height, and in some places altogether impracticable
for cavalry. It therefore happened that the com-
manding officer was enabled to effect an entrance,
and to push on through the camp closely followed
by those immediately behind him, viz., by the right
division of the 2nd Squadron, and by a few files
from the left of the 1st, and two officers, Lieu-
tenant, now Captain Sandham, and the late Cornet
Farquhar; while the remainder of the regiment
were somewhat retarded by meeting with more
difficult parts of the enemy's field works. It is
therefore not surprising that with such obstacles to
overcome, and in charging through the intricacies
of a camp full of the enemy. a portion of the regi-
ment should have outstripped the rest, and that at
the end of the charge, which was a very long one,
the commanding officer found himself with about
twenty men and the two officers before mentioned,
cut off by a strong body of the enemy intervening
between them and the regiment, and it was in
charging back to rejoin the main body that Cornet
Farquhar, a very promising young officer, was mor-
tally wounded, and several other casualties occurred.
"On reaching the regiment a part was found
drawn up to the left of the intrenchments, and a
INTRODUCTION.
xi
portion still in the camp, but shortly all joined, and
the regiment was ordered to form line with the rest
of the brigade which had rallied after their advance,
and the whole then moved forward towards the
enemy, who were crossing the river as fast as they
could under a heavy fire from our Artillery.
"From this narrative it will be observed that the
other regiment of the brigade charged in a different
direction from that of the first, and that there was
not the least hesitation, on the part of the latter
regiment, in obeying the order to charge, or in
forcing their way into the Sikh camp, which every
body will allow was not a good or fit field for
cavalry to act in.
"As to the remark attributed to a person named
R-of the-th Regiment, it never reached the
commanding officer's ear, nor does he believe that
any such observation was ever made by any officer.
"On referring to the published despatches of the
General Commanding in this action, Sir Harry
Smith, it will be found that he praises the conduct
of the 1st Light Cavalry in flattering terms, and
further, he pardoned a trooper sentenced by a
court-martial to be flogged, on account of the noble
conduct,' as he was pleased to call it, of the regiment
in the action of the 28th January.
CAWNPOOR, 19th November, 1853."
6
xii
INTRODUCTION.
"ELICHPUR, 7th December, 1853."
“MY DEAR Bradford,
"Thank you for sending a copy of
your letter to The Englishman,' which of course,
under the circumstances, you could not avoid
writing. I will forward it to Mrs. Mackenzie by
this mail, viz., that which leaves Bombay on the
14th instant. I cannot see how your account of
the cavalry affair at Aliwal can in any way be
incorrect, and yet, strange to say, a gentleman of
undoubted gallantry, honour, and veracity, related
the story, as an eye-witness of the battle, to Mrs.
Mackenzie, exactly as you read it in her published
journal. I remember that my own feelings on
hearing the anecdote were those of indignation,
that your chivalrous appeal had been so scantily
responded to. This is only another proof of the
extreme difficulty of ascertaining what actually
takes place in a field of battle. Truth, in such
cases, seems to conceal herself at the bottom of an
Artesian well. Despatches are very seldom accu-
rate, quite the reverse; but your simple assertion
is enough for me, and for all who have the pleasure
of your acquaintance, in as much as it is quite cer-
tain, that you would not, to save a kingdom, bear
witness to any fact, concerning which you had the
INTRODUCTION.
xiii
slightest doubt yourself; and that, if I may take
the liberty of expressing my real sentiments, your
modesty is equal to your established reputation as
a soldier.
"Believe me, with much esteem,
"Yours very sincerely,
"Col. Bradford, C.B.
"C. MACKENZIE."
f
GLOSSARY.
Ayah, lady's maid or nurse
Akhám, a mandate
Amír, a lord (not Hindu)
Bechoba, a tent without a centre
pole
Brahman, the sacred and highest
caste of Hindus
Bund, a dam
Bunder, a landplace (at Bombay)
Băniah, a shopkeeper
Bhisti, a watercarrier
Bíbí, a lady
Bégúm, a princess
Bărá or Bărí, great
Bungalow, a house, especially a
thatched one
Bágh, garden
Budgerow, a large Calcutta boat
Chattah, an umbrella
Chaitya,
Chillam, a pipe
Dinghi, a large Calcutta boat
Dhobi, washerman
Dhobin, washerman's wife
Dahgoba, a beehive-shaped Budd-
hist shrine
Dák, post
Dărbár, a court
Daffadár, a native cavalry non-
commissioned officer
Dheds, a low caste people in Surat
and elsewhere
Dóms, a low caste people in Bengal
Duli, a litter
Gári, carriage
Gonds, the aboriginal Hill Tribe
of the Dekkhan
Ghát, a pass through hills, or a
landing place
Hávildár, a native sergeant
Haq, right
Huqá, long pipe, the smoke passes
through water
Jemadar, a native lieutenant
Jungle, forest-waste land
Jain, a Hindu sect, half Buddhists
Jhappan, a sort of sedan chair
with curtains, at Simla
Jhamp, a skreen of bamboo and
matting
Kammerband, girdle
Kuli, a common labourer
Khánsámán, head servant
Khan, a title-lord
Khidmutgar, a man-servant
Kachá, unripe, unbaked, imperfect
Maharajah, a king, lit. great prince
Mashál or Masal, torch; Masálchi,
torchbearer
Masjid, mosque
Máli, gardener
Mír Adal, chief justice
Massak, goatskin for carrying
water
Mehter, a man of the sweeper
caste; Mehtráni, a woman of
the sweeper caste
xvi
GLOSSARY.
Mahaut, elephant driver, who sits
on the creature's neck
Náig, a native corporal
Nálki, a royal palanquin
Nihál, the low caste among the
Gonds
Nawab, a Muhammadan noble
Nizám, a viceroy
Nizam u Doulah, prime minister
Nallah, a ditch
Päkká, ripe, baked, properly done
Pálki, a palanquin
Păltăn, regiment
Padre Sahib, a clergyman or
minister
Paul, a small tent
Phanka, a fan, usually a large one,
suspended from the roof
Pariah, the low caste at Madras;
Parwari, the low caste at Bombay
Pagri, a turban
Patán, a descendant of Afgháns
Ráj, kingdom; Rájah, a Hindu
prince; fem., Ráni; Rájput, the
military caste, next in rank to
the Brahmans
Ressallah, a regiment of cavalry
Sahib, a gentleman- a title
Mem Sahib, in Bengal, Madam
Sahib, Bombay, a lady
Sahib lóg, lit. the lordly people.
The British
Sawár, a trooper
Sáhukár, a banker
Súbádár, a native Captain
Subáh, a district
Sáis, a groom
Shah, a king, a Padshah not a
Hindu
Shahzádá, son of a king"
Shikár, game; Shikári, a hunts-
man
Shiwalla, small Hindu temple
Tatti, a skreen of thatch kept
wetted for the hot winds to pass
through
Tiffin, luncheon
Tonjon, a sort of chair with a hood,
for one person, borne by four
men
Talukdár, one who farms a district
from Government
Urbáb, petty Muhammadan chief
Wazír, prime minister
Zenáná, the ladies' apartments
Zemindár, landholder
PRONOUNCE
a short, like u, in but. Pagri pronounce pugree
á long, like in army
i like ee, topi (hat). Amír like Ameer
u long, Subah like Soobah
ai like y, in by
The vowels are pronounced much as in German or Italian
CONTENTS
OF
VOLUME THE FIRST.
CHAPTER I.
Life at sea-Trade Winds-The Survivor of Minden-Sermon-
Sunday School-Calms without, Discord within-An Alligator
-Music-Expenses of a Voyage-Sunset-High Churchman--
Soldiers' Wives-Don Juan-Spelling-Recruits—Albatross—
Amsterdam-Marriages-Officer Overboard-Virtuous Old Times
Shark-Society on Board-Assassin and Suicide-Latest case
of Piracy-Wine-Arrival-Sailors and Bibles .
CHAPTER II.
Calcutta-The Course-Free Kirk-Native Town-Dr. Duff-
Sparrows-General Assembly-Institutions -Cricket- Crows
Botanical Garden Jacob Jewish and Armenian School
Miss Laing's School-Dumdum-The Sind Amir's idea of Prayer
Suburbs-Catechist's Jagadishwar-Prasunar's Elopement-
The old Rajput and his Sons-Kaputli Nach-Caricature of
English Manners-Bonamali-A Yoghi-General von Gagern
-Medical College-Mussulman Obduracy-Church of England
-Muharram-Krishna-Mohan Banerji-Alipore-New Year's
Day-Union Chapel-Calcutta Christians-Mr. Wilson's School
-Telegraph Hay-A Brahman Convert-Poinsettia-Bathing
-Bearers-Rev. J. Macdonald-Communion-Miss Laing's
School-Charlotte Green Examination of Baranagar School
-Bengal Brahmans-Death of Dr. Carey
Page
1
27
xviii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
Barackpur-Palkis-Palkigaris-Banghy Bardars-Chouki Trees
-Bangalows-Afghans-Travelling-Rajmahal Hills-Ghiljyes
-Her Majesty's 98th-Tigers-Crooked Answers-Amirs of Sind
-Akbar's Letter-Son River-Native Huntsman-Benares-
Raja of Vizigapatam-Count Goertz--The Kurg Rajah.-Gun
Cotton - Rani's Ornaments - Elephants-City of Benares
Great Temple-Mosk-Minars-Observatory-Mya-The Ghat
Hindu House-Brocades-Nipalese-Sattara Raja-Jewels
-Free SchoolGirls' School- Examination Papers-Nipalese
Sirdars-Sattara Ranis-Review-Leave Benares-Allahabad-
School-Mourning Bride-Cawnpore-Mission School-A Sikh
-Costume-Mainpuri
•
Page
72
CHAPTER IV.
First View of Agra-The Taj by Moonlight-Akbar's Tomb-
Esthetic Religion-Chaplain-Baptist Chapel-The Fort and
Mullah-Sikhs-Arsenal-A Temperance Serjeant-Mr. Pfander
-The Sabbath-Lutheran Missionaries-The Convent-Alipur
-Dehli-Old King's Palace-Italian Artists-Moti Musjid-
Gardens-Jamma Musjid-Pigeons-Nadir Shah-Safdar Jang's
Tomb Architecture Kutab Legend of Pithor-a - Sing's
Daughter-Moghuls-Muhammad Toglak-Nizam ud Din's Well
-Arab Serai-Shrine-Tombs-Well-Ruins Humaiun's Tomb
-Marriage Procession-Cow killed-A Brahman's Opinion of
Romanism Cantonments - Dulu - Karnal - Dancing Snakes
- Beggar on Horseback-Amballa-Thief Hanging-Sirhind
-Loodiana-American Mission
•
111
CHAPTER V.
Baptism of a Convert-Saleh Muhammad-Hasan Khan-Firoz-
shahar Afghan Dinner Our House, and Servants' Life-
School-Public Spirit of Missionaries-Hubiq Khan-" Don't
tell me lies!"-Captive Children-The Nizam-u-Doulah-" You
write Book" Aliwal — Cowardice-Hushing-up-Dust-storm
-Sermon on the Mount-Death of Akbar Khan-A Birsaker-
Tract Distribution-Converted Devotee-Temperance-Marriage
of Orphan-Afghan Dress-A Jezailchi-Blood Feuds-Old
Soldier-Afghan Ladies-Raising a Regiment-Hasan Khan's
Journey-Garden-Illustrations of Scripture-Pets-Phankahs
-Drawing a Camel-Bribery-Depravity of Hinduismn-The
Nizam-u-Doulah-Afghans and Sikhs-Firozshahar-Honesty by
Vocation.
A
159
CONTENTS.
xix
CHAPTER VI.
Afghan Zenana-Making an Impression-A Reauty-A Demoniac
-Mussalman Husband Pictures-Camera Oscura Hasan
Khan's curiosity-Reception by Governor-General-Sirfraz Khan
-Stoddart and Conolly-Persian Horse Dealer-Lights-Dust
Storm-Nil Gao-Hot Winds - Unlucky Dream-Wounded
Artilleryman-Fatteh Jang and General Pollock-Life in the
Harem-Polygamy - Manly Boys Afghan Supper-Salt on
Sunday Messenger from Muhammad Shah Khan Afghan
Claims Akbar Khan's Treachery Feather Jacket Our
Soldiers still Captive in Afghanistan - Bangstrie - Afghan
Sheep-Cure for Industry-Prosperity of annexed Sikh States
-Hindustani Language-Murteza Shah-Rudeness to Native
Gentleman-Remarkable Storm-Sepahi's Wife-An Afghan on
Fighting- Faithful Afghan-A Mantis - Bribery
Bribery Unservice-
able Arms-Bengal Army-Suffering of the Regiment
J
•
Page
197
CHAPTER VII.
Jacob's Illness-Committee on Flour-Three Kinds-A Wedding
-Hasan Khan's Friendship-Rudeness-Jacob's Death-Last
Letter--Funeral-Sufferings of Regiment-Rains-"Nelson"-
Temperance-Panjabis on Female Education-Retrenchments
Serai-Prince Teimur-Little Bird-Scenes in the City-
Insects-Cleaning Cotton-Blacksmith-Paying the Regiment
-Elephants-New-born Afghan-Old Ayah-Munshi's English
Fort-Disgrace at Baddiwal-Kashmiris-Inquirers-Soldier
-Harmony among Christians-Newspapers-The Prince of
Spies Sepahi and Peasant's Wife-Shah Shujah — Legend
from the Kuran-Snake-Elephants-Full Dress Night Shirt
Government Regulation and Coffins-A Charm Barsati
Fireworks-Selling Children-Murders-Shiahs and Sunis
-Compliance with Native Superstitions Cat Hunt Loose
Horse The Four Friends-Mussulman Orthodoxy-The Rama-
zan-Afghan Noble in Distress-Anakims
230
CHAPTER VIII.
The Regiment Quarrels and is Punished-Conversion by the Sword
-Baptist of a Mussalman Rahim-Singing Bird-Forbidden
Marriages among Mussalmans-Fasting-Churning-Doctrine
of Imputation - Mussalman Legends - Alta Muhammad on
Fasting Regimental Bazar - Tacts Official Delays—First
Death in the Regiment-Munshi and Monasteries-"Son of
Fowl"-Influence of Native Women-Brahman on Popery-
XX
CONTENTS.
Children of a Missionary-The Piszadeh Convert-The Arabic
Character disliked-A Father's Picture-"The Great Day of
Atonement" One Hour's Housekeeping - Native Mode of
Sleeping-Officers and Non-commissioned Officers on Promo-
tion-English Doctrine of the Sabbath-Temperance for Ladies
-Description of the Old and New World-Superiority of Hindu
Religion-Condition of Widows Indian Mussalmans - Purga-
tory Afghan Idea of the Heavens Falling Stars
Deficiencies at Sobraon State of Magazines-A Jezailchi-
Sympathy Salubrity of Different Stations-Want of Discipline
-Eclipse of Moon Regimental Festival New World
Kindness of Prince Teimur-Respect for Catechists-Sufferings
of Soldiers' Wives-Sympathy of Afghans-Injudicious Com-
mandant-Promotion of Havildar Major-"The Labourers in
my Vineyard"-Poor Bhisti-Orphan School-Dogs-Tinkling
Feet-Evil Example of Officers
S
Page
267
CHAPTER IX.
Persian Testament-
Walis
T
Hindu Festival ·
Superstition
Hasan Khan in a Pet Shahzadeh Shahpur's Gallantry
Muhammad Shah Khan's Kasid-Abdulrahman Khan on Prayer
-Hindu Ignorance of Mussalmans-Hindu Bearers-Kurban-
Breakfast at Hasan Khan's Afghan Estimate of Wives-A
Molewi― Futile Cavils against Christianity" Don't ee brack
my Bones"-Amir Dost Muhammad's Treachery-Shah Shujah's
Pride Flowery Grass Miss Laing's School Missionary
Meeting-Examination of Schools-A Little Class The Fire-
mouth-Pantheism-Worship of Regimental Colours-Havildar
Major on Idolatry-Plato Enlists-Wild Cat-Bandicot Rat
Cold-Dogs in Coats New Bazar Bankers Carpenter's
Tools-Fine for killing accidentally-Elephant-Hindus Cooking
-Sikh Hair Chess Agha Muhammad's Adventure-Shah-
zadeh Jammur-Sultan Muhammad-Ill Treatment of 120
Afghans-Shabudin-Danger of Beef Eating-Kashmiri Women 300
CHAPTER X.
Persian Bible-Bazar at Night-Neglected Children-Irregular
Cavalry Marchings-Colonel Lawrence - Disregard of Caste
-Araton-Wedding- Hydrophobia-Pressing Carts-Bridge
Filor-Persian Wheel-Vicious Elephant-Christian Children
Missionary Family-A Fallen Prince-Grenadiers Strike Work
-Repentance and Industry-Fear of Death-Insolence of a
European Officer-Brutality of a Soldier-Screening-An Indian
Lady Want of Esprit de Corps -- Abdulrahman Khan
Imprisoned Havildar Native Drawings Persian Poems
CONTENTS.
Hardihood of Afghans-Our Maimed Camp Followers-Baptism
of a Jew Of Calcutta Girls-Mission at Allahabad-Super-
stition-Arab Horses-A Gipsy Shah-P-lummery-Christian
Officer-A Hindu's View of Death-"Heaven not a Stable".
Kindly Feeling-Servant with Battle Axe
CHAPTER XI.
Agha Muhammad's Wife-An Afghan Brother-Romanist Schools
-Want Supplied-The Roman Catholic Bishop-Fall of 50th
Lines-Delays in Clothing the Regiment-" Nell"-Attack on
Agha Muhammad Earthquake at Peshawar Pensions to
Jezailchis-Superstition-Security of Existence-Oppression in
Kashmir-False Alarm-Cheap Living-Government Education
-Airs of some of the Native Women-Regiment on the March-
Fewness of Sikhs-Afghan's Anxiety to Learn-Azim-Contro-
versy-A Proud Mullah-False Inquiries-Ungentlemanly Con-
duct-Accident to an Officer-Widow of Shah Zeman-Cheroots
-Music-Funeral in a Zenana-Beauty -Two Zenana's-
American Family-Abbas Khan's Rescue-French Revolution-
Fair at Hardwar-Money God-Morning Scene-Poor Old
Afghan-Visit from Shahzadeh's Wife
CHAPTER XII.
Multan Outbreak-George Thomas-Murder of Anderson and
Agnew-Sir F. Curric-General Ventura-Individuals have no
Rights-A Sikh Sirdar-English Friendship-Rudeness-Nabi
Baksh-A Weeping Naig Sheep Stealing A Henwife-
Drowning-Plot at Lahore-State of the Panjab-Shir Sing-
Sikh Regiment-News from Lahore-Rejecting Information-
Cure for Madness-The Rani-The Regiment Volunteers-
Musalman Funeral-Exposing Troops to the Sun-A Demonstra-
tion-Hasan Khan's Wives-Sir F. Currie
xxi
Page
•
322
•
349
35
CHAPTER XIII.
Knowing People-Kindness and Unkindness-A Jezailchi's Bones
Afghans and Sikhs-Elephants-Henpecked Hindu-Asses-
Paroquets-Taxes-Poetical Justice Dust Storm-Taxes in
Kashmir-Little Prince-Munshi's Translation-Afghan Abuse
-Sick Child-Patan Monks-Spoilt Children-Swearing in the
Regiment-Preparing to March-A Chaprasi-" Flittings"-
Ants-Scorpion Bite-Contradictory Orders-Balaam and the
Dog-Legend of Sunete- Shopkeepers-Prayer-Sikh Villages
-Ovens-Gulab Sing-H. M.'s 29th-Death of Saiad-Murteza
Shah-Ham and Jam
•
395
LIFE
IN THE MISSION, THE CAMP,
AND THE ZENÁ NÁ.
Ν
CHAPTER I.
Life at sea-
-Trade Winds-The Survivor of Minden-Sermon-Sunday
School-Calms without, Discord within-An Alligator-Music-
Expenses of a Voyage-Sunset-High Churchman Soldiers' Wives
-Don Juan-Spelling-Recruits-Albatross Amsterdam- Mar-
riages-Officer Overboard-Virtuous Old Times-Shark-Society on
Board-Assassin and Suicide-Latest case of Piracy-Winc-Arrival
-Sailors and Bibles
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 5th, 1846.-We have been
since September 2nd in the Tropics, the thermometer
about 82° in my cabin, which is the coolest in the
ship; but the evenings are delightful the very per-
fection of refreshing warm weather. This last week
has flown very rapidly. We have seen two ships; a little
land bird came on board; one of the cabin-boys fell
down the hatchway yesterday evening; and as he lay
groaning, he said, "Oh, take Mr. Consitt (the chief
officer) his tea." We all greatly admired this strong
sense of duty in the poor little man. We also saw a
shoal of Albicores, a huge white fish of about one cwt.
each, leaping and sporting in the waves; and this, I
think, forms the sum total of the week's occurrences.
The last few days we have had numerous musquitoes.
I have been astonished to see how much less wave there
VOL. I.
13
B
2
TRADE WINDS.
is at sea than one would expect from living on the
sea-coast; even yesterday it was more a great swell
which heaved us up and down, than breakers and foam
as I had anticipated. Captain Henning has lent me a
letter of Basil Hall's (in Daniel's "Meteorological Ob-
servations," explaining the trade winds. North of the
equator, their most general direction is north-east;
south of the equator, south-east; they extend to about
28° to 30° on each side of the line; but the southern
limit of the N.E. trade varies with the season of the
year, and follows the course of the sun, so that now
when the sun is about 6 N., we cannot expect to have
the trades below 10° or 12° N., while in December and
January, when the sun has a high southern declination,
they reach almost to the line, but never pass it; whereas
the S.E. often encroaches as much as 3° or 4° on the
northern latitudes.
After losing the trades we enter a region of variable
winds and calms, which is the most tedious and uncer-
tain portion of the voyage; of course the narrower the
extent of the trades, the wider is that of the variables.
The trade winds become more and more southerly as
they approach the line, and as the S.E. trade is unfavour-
able to us, when we meet it we shall have to bear away
to the west, keeping of course as near the wind (that is
sailing as much against it) as possible.
The heat on this side of the Cape is much greater
and more oppressive than on the other, because we get
the hot wind from the African coast, of which the
sirocco is a specimen.
The causes of the trade winds are twofold: first, the
air near the equator, being much hotter than in higher
latitudes, ascends, whilst the cool air from the north and
south poles rushes in beneath it, and thus produces a
north and south wind blowing from the respective poles
towards the line, whilst far above in the sky the highest
clouds are seen taking a contrary direction towards the
poles; secondly, the velocity of the earth at the equator
is about 1000 miles an hour, but in latitude 30° it is
about 140 miles an hour less. The air partakes of the
་
TRADE WINDS.
3
same velocity as the earth and water beneath it; when,
therefore, this slow air is drawn towards the equator, it
is at first left behind by the superior velocity of the
earth's motion castward, and thus, as we rush along with
the earth, the tardy wind puffs in our faces, until by
degrees its motion becomes more and more accelerated
and we feel it no longer. This is the reason why as the
trade winds approach the line they lose this easterly
character, and retain only their northern or southern
direction, which arises from the first named cause. The
monsoon in the Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean, and
China, is accounted for on the same principles. When
the sun has great northern declination, India and China
become so much heated that the air from the equator
being the coolest, rushes in to fill up the place of the
heated Indian atmosphere, which ascends as a matter
of course. This said equatorial air coming from the
south, and having a more rapid motion to the east than
the regions it comes to visit, produces a south-westerly
wind. When, on the other hand, the sun goes to
the south, the reverse takes place, and the south-east
monsoon is produced. In the N.E. trades the earth
is like a steam-carriage, creating a wind by rushing
through the air. The northerly and southerly motion
is easily understood. I hope this is clear to you,
dear people. You see there would be nothing but
easterly winds if the earth were a uniform mass of
land and water; but, as land and water do not retain
heat an equal length of time, the great masses of
heated earth produce variations in the currents of air,
as I have endeavoured to expound. The reason that
strong westerly winds are so prevalent N. of Madeira
and S. of the Cape is, that the air from the equator,
which has been sailing along high up with very little
friction to diminish its velocity, has, by the time it
arrives there, become sufficiently cooled to descend from
its high horse (the air beneath it being hotter in those
latitudes), and creates a westerly wind, just as when
a steam-carriage passes we feel the whiff thereof.
C. has just interrupted me with a story Major M. has
B 2
4
THE SURVIVOR OF MINDEN.
been telling him. When the 51st were at Plymouth
in 1819, they heard that an old gentleman who had
been present at a review of the regiment, had thanked
God that he had lived to see the 51st once more. They
inquired about him, and finding that he had been a
lieutenant in the regiment, and had been present with
it at the battle of Minden, they immediately determined
to give him a grand dinner, and invited the Admiral,
the General, all the authorities, and many of the
county gentlemen, and in fact, gave the old officer
such an entertainment as had never been heard of in
the 51st before. The old man was seated on the right
hand of the chair, and after the usual toasts, the Colonel
gave the "memory of the heroes of Minden," which was
drunk in solemn silence. Rising again, he proposed,
in a speech warm from the heart, the health of their
vencrable guest, the sole survivor of the 51st who had
fought in that battle; this was received with such pro-
longed and enthusiastic cheering, the naval men joining
in a sort of ecstasy, that the poor old man was quite
overcome, and at last leant his head down on the table,
and sobbed. He returned thanks with difficulty, saying,
that, after this, he did not care how soon he died.
When he went away, the Admiral, the Colonel, and
some of the principal officers (all of whom had received
him as if he had been the father of each one in par-
ticular), accompanied him to the door, and saw him
into his carriage.
Major M. also told us of an interview he had had
with Sir James Stephen. Shortly after his return from
Van Dieman's Land, he was requested to call at the
Colonial Office, in order to give the results of his ob-
servations and experience in that colony. Sir James.
Stephen received him most blandly, then leaning back
in his chair, he folded his hands, half closed his eyes,
and gave utterance to a series of various apothegms
and reflections, perfectly true and extremely well ex-
pressed, for the space of an hour and a half. He
then rosc, blandly thanked the astonished Major M.
for his valuable information, and bowed him out of
A SUNDAY SCHOOL ON BOARD.
CT
5
the room, without having allowed him to utter a
sentence.
Monday, September 7th.-We are off the Cape Verd
Islands: our worst run hitherto has been ninety-seven
miles in the twenty-four hours, i. e. four knots an hour.
Yesterday was exceedingly hot: there were upwards
of twenty fans in use at dinner. The Chaplain
preached a short discourse, literally in praise of reli-
gion, showing it to be a good and profitable thing,
but not showing what it was, nor how it was to be
obtained. A Mollah might have been thankful for the
loan of it, if he had found himself unprepared some
Friday morning. Yesterday, to our great satisfaction,
the missionary, Mr. M., preached, or rather read, a very
good sermon; he is an Independent, but that I keep
secret.
.
Mrs. D. and I had agreed to try to get up a
Sunday-school for the women and children on board.
Three of the young ladies came to help us. C. made
"Paterson on the Shorter Catechism" his text-book,
beginning with the first commandment, and taking only
the simple parts. About eight women and children were
present: we hope next time to have more--each of the
young ladies helped the others to find the texts referred
to. May God graciously bless this attempt to lead them
into the way of salvation. Afterwards C. read one of
McCheyne's last sermons, Miss M., Miss D., and their
maid, being present.
To-day we have nearly a calm;-do you know that
in a calm we have more rolling than in a fresh breeze?
Captain H. says, that naval men owe a great debt of
gratitude to Colonel Reid for his work on Storms.
The best course, now that the law of storms is under-
stood, is for a ship to lie with her head to the wind,
when a gale comes on, however favourable the wind
may appear to be, and the storm thus passes over her.
Tuesday. The joyful news that a homeward-bound
ship was in sight, threw us all into confusion. Every
body prepared their letters-we rushed on deck-she
shortened sail, and we soon approached her.
She
6
CALMS WITHOUT-DISCORD WITHIN.
looked very pretty, breasting the waves as she passed
under the stern of the " Alfred," but, to our dis-
appointment, we found she was a Genoese bound to
Genoa. We had, however, the satisfaction of seeing
some living thing besides ourselves. I cannot imagine
any one enjoying à sea-voyage unless they were making
love. The monotony is very tiresome, and I have
not felt well enough to enjoy any occupation but read-
ing. We stay in our cabin most of the day-the
nights are lovely-we walk or sit on deck until nine
o'clock. The Captain and his wife, the Doctor, Mr. M.,
and some of the officers of the ship, are very pleasant.
Some of the ladies have empty heads, and some full
hearts, so there is scarcely one whose conversation is
at all a luxury. In the utter dearth of incident, one
hails the arrival of a little bird from the African coast
with more pleasure than you can imagine, just as you
would a visit from Mr. B. or Carlyle. The little bird
was caught, and I kissed and stroked him for joy.
I am in daily fear of becoming a gossip; the fear, I
hope, will preserve me from danger; one day one
hears of a quarrel between two black-bearded passen-
gers, because one helped the other too largely to rice-
pudding-another day a Queen's officer is riotous, and
all the young ladies peep behind the jalousies to see
what is the matter; then "Miss A. has been so spiteful
to Miss B."-Miss C. won't sit any longer beside Dr. D.,
because she thinks him very rude-Miss E. talks too
much to Captain F., and takes pet because Mrs. H.
kindly tells her of it:--and so every day brings forth
its small quota of pettiness. A lady paid me a visit
the other day, and spent the whole time in talking
to my maid about the characters of their mutual
acquaintance. She often makes me laugh. I told her
the other night we were going south, which, said I, is
very good "I am sure, ma'am," she answered, "I
don't know-I am not an alligator," meaning navi-
gator!
I send you a little sketch of the morning muster of
the soldiers on board; the officers nearly rival them in
SOLDIERS IN WHITE FROCKS.
7
variety of apparel-some wear red jackets, some white;
some black coats, some brown holland, and most of
them have turn-down collars, and little black necker-
chiefs, such as they must have worn in the days when
they "crept unwillingly to school." Two Sundays
ago the soldiers appeared in white frocks and trousers,
furnished by the Company, looking exactly like mag-
nified little boys. It nearly upset my gravity.
Yesterday, there was more motion than we have yet
had, so that our chairs were lashed to the posts in the
cuddy, or to the legs of the dinner-table; but nothing
very diverting occurred.
I have been reading Elliott's "Horæ Apocalypticæ,"
and Carlyle's "Revolution," with exceeding pleasure.
In fact, one's chief happiness on board ship lies in
books. Miss M. and I read a canto of Dante together
daily, which we greatly enjoy.
Monday, September 21st.-Every one has been
more or less unwell, for the heat at the beginning of
last week was most oppressive-not very intense, for
in our cabin I never remarked the thermometer above
84°, but a dull, clammy heat, that made one feel sick;
and even the evening wind was not refreshing, but
felt as if it came over a cool bog. In the cuddy, at
dinner, I think the thermometer must have reached
blood heat. C. thinks that coming inside the Cape de
Verde Islands, which we have done, is probably not so
healthy as passing outside; for, as the African coast is
pestilential, and some of the Cape de Verdes have lately
proved equally so, it is reasonable to suppose that the
air between them is anything but salubrious. I have
not been able to eat breakfast since I came on board;
but since we passed the sun, which we did on Friday,
there has been a wonderful difference in the wind,
which is now quite cool, coming direct to us from the
South Pole. We passed the Line early on Saturday
morning—a wonderfully fine passage of only four weeks
since we left Portsmouth. Captain H. is not on visiting
terms with Neptune, who consequently did not appear.
One of the officers caught a Vilella (a curious mucila-
8
FELLOW PASSENGERS.
ginous fish) and gave it to me; it is about five inches.
long, of a deep indigo-blue colour, with a curious fin,
which serves as a sail; its mouth lies underneath, and
when touched it stings. I saw many of them in the
water-in sailing, they spin round and round.
Hitherto our party has been like a list of dramatis
persone, long and tiresome, but last week the plot
began to thicken. Some ladies got up a little quarrel,
and a poor mad officer made a proposal. His case is a
very sad one, as he is decidedly insane, and must be
invalided as soon as he arrives; we are all in fear lest
he should do something rash, such as throwing himself
overboard.
Wednesday, September 23rd.—The poor officer whom
I mentioned is better: he came and spoke to me this
morning collectedly enough. It makes one's heart ache
to see him; he is very gentlemanly, very obliging, and
has a mother and sister living.
Last night some of the soldiers took it into their
heads to sing in parts, accompanied by one of the
serjeants who plays well on the flute: the effect was
beautiful, and the voices, borne on the evening wind,
stole on the ear like those of some choice choir. They
sung slow touching airs, such as the "Canadian Boat
Song," "My Highland Home," that showed they had
the same feelings in their hearts as those which filled
our own. Since the days of Babel, music is the one
universal language left us, perhaps the only mode in
which man speaks to man of his thoughts and feelings
without regard of persons.
My servant R- amuses me very much; she talks
not like a "prent buke," but like a water-wheel, and is
evidently as much acquainted with all her former
mistress's affairs and opinions as she herself can be. In
India she has a man-servant of her own, upwards of
451. a year wages, and never touches a needle from
one year's end to another.
day, when I was working,
had some nice wool!" (6
some surprise. "I wish
She said to me the other
"Oh, ma'am, I wish you
Why, ?" answered I, in
to work a pair of slippers
DIFFERENCE IN THE TEMPERATURE.
for Mrs.." She is evidently accustomed to ask for
anything her mistress has: I find her very useful on
board, however, very obliging and good-tempered.
66)
(C
The Captain wes telling me the other day about his
ship: he is part owner; the expenses out and home are
about 12,000l. The midshipmen get no pay; their
"'prentice fee" is 601., their mess 107. per annum: so
that, with outfit, their expenses for the first year are
not less than 1207. to 1407. After three voyages, if
one of them is appointed fourth officer of the ship, he
gets 20s. a month, whereas a common sailor gets 21.
I asked why they got so little. Captain H. replied,
Oh, they are of so little use." The second officer
gets from 87. to 107. a month, and the first a little more.
There is an uncertainty how long the ships will pay, for
the rate of passage-money is greatly reduced. We pay
2201. for a stern cabin for ourselves, a share of the
women's cabin for R., and our board. Formerly, a
man coming home paid 1000l., and a man and his
wife 15007. It is the voyage home (when both freight
and passage-money are higher than on the voyage out)
which pays the owners.
Thursday, October 8th. Since September 24th,
when we were in south latitude 16°, it has been cold;
there is a wonderful difference in the temperature
north and south of the line, the former being much
warmer in the same latitudes. We are now in 40°
S. latitude, or as much to the south of the equator as
Madrid is north of it, and this is the first summer
month in these regions, yet we have all been wearing
our warmest dresses for the last ten days. I am now
writing in fur cuffs, and sit all day in a wadded silk
cloak over a merino gown. By the time we arrive at
Calcutta, I think my wits will be in a perfect state of
imbroglio in regard to time and seasons. Within six
weeks we have had autumn, summer, and winter
weather. In a short time we expect summer again,
though not of that oppressive and overpowering heat
we endured on the west coast of Africa, and then
another spell of cold weather before reaching Calcutta:
恕
​B 3
10
TROPICAL SUNSET.
we ought to come out as hard and sharp as steel after
these sudden alternations of temperature. The greatest
heat in our cabin was not above 84°, now it is not
below 58°, and yet the cold is great; I begin to think
the thermometer gives no more idea of the heat one
feels than the number of years one has lived does of
the real age.
:
We left the tropics on September 29th, and on
Monday, the 28th, we saw the first of those glorious
sunsets which we had expected in vain since we entered
them. I cannot describe the wondrous beauty of the
sky at first it appeared like a lovely English sun-
set, when gradually the sun, having entered into his
chamber, summoned his "royal body-guard of prismatic
colours," illuminating the whole sky with gold, crimson,
purple, and even green, from the most delicate tints
to the most gorgeous radiance, filling the heart with
delight and the eye well nigh with tears. Far beyond
the dark rolling waters were continents and bays,
studded with islands bathed in a flood of light, and
giving some faint image of that better country, that
New Jerusalem who shall descend adorned as a bride
"whose clothing is of wrought gold." "Ah, if L.
were here! and dear E!" We both longed for you.
When we see the reality of that glorious vision, I trust
all those dearest to us will "walk with the Lamb in
white."
I never had an hour of greater enjoyment. How
greatly our impressions from external things depend on
the state of the mind in which we see them! had I
been alone, I doubt if even this magnificence would
have given me anything like real pleasure.
On the 29th September we first saw some birds,
which have ever since formed a most pleasing variety
to our "outlook," as Carlyle would call it. Nothing
can exceed the monotony of a sea view, unenlivened
by the sight of any living creature-but now the
ocean is alive with the huge albatross, the beautiful
Cape pigeon, and lovely little stormy-petrels, all of
them incessantly whirling around us, chasing one
AN INDEPENDENT MISSIONARY.
11
another, diving and skimming along, or floating on the
waves, full of life and enjoyment. Many of the young
officers amuse themselves with wantonly shooting at
these poor birds. The other day we saw an albatross
wounded, sink helpless on the distant waves. Cer-
tainly some of the officers on board do little credit to
Her Majesty's service: those one knows at home are
always gentlemanly, but four of these on board have
been under arrest for intoxication since we sailed; and
I am told they do not scruple to tell the most coarse
stories in the presence of ladies. They pass their time
in utter idleness, and drink, on an average, a bottle
and half of wine a-piece daily, besides a quantity of
spirits; some of them are young men of twenty-two,
with wives younger than themselves.
I have seen
more of human life since I came on board than I ever
did before; it is an ugly picture, but I will just endea-
vour to sketch a part of it for you.
You know we have a Company's chaplain, and an
Independent missionary on board; the latter is, I
believe, a thoroughly Christian man, and Captain H.
being (like several of the passengers besides ourselves)
a Presbyterian, insisted on his preaching every alter-
nate Sunday. He reads his sermons, which are very
good, their only fault in my opinion being, that they
are not pointed and personal enough, and that he does
not appeal sufficiently to the conscience of his hearers,
showing them how full they are of sin, and urging the
necessity of an entire conversion. They are as inof-
fensive as Scriptural discourses could by any possibility
be; but one of the officers on board is a High Church-
man, and the Sunday before last (October 3d), when we
were obliged to have prayers in the cuddy, on account
of the rain, both he and his wife left directly the
service was over, and before the Missionary began his
He afterwards made divers uncourteous
speeches about "Methodist parsons, &c." I wonder
what he would say of the field-preaching, prayer meet-
ings, and other canonical irregularities that must have
gone on when "
they that were scattered abroad went
sermon.
:
:
12
SOLDIERS' WIVES.
everywhere preaching the word ?" (Acts viii. 1-4.) Mr.
M. has begun a course of lectures in our cabin for all
who chose to come. Many are the expedients to find
and contrive seats; from seventeen to twenty attend.
Our meeting before dinner on Sundays for the women
and children goes on well. We meet also on Thursday
at the same hour, and the soldiers' wives come regu-
larly, although they are all Roman Catholics; with
children, women, and young ladies, our party amounts
to one or two and twenty. Mr. M. also preaches in
our cabin on Wednesdays or Thursdays.
(C
Four of the young ladies on board always attend our
domestic worship, and in the evening they come to our
cabin and C. reads aloud while we work. He has read
Rokeby," and we are now enjoying Pollok's "Course
of Time." The Doctor and the third officer, Mr. G.,
a most gentlemanly, intelligent young man, always
attend Mr. M.'s discourses, and four of the young
ensigns do the same, more or less regularly. All this
has roused the antagonistic principle in the senior
officer on board, who lectured each of the young
officers for attending the preaching of a man “who had
no more right to preach than his shoemaker," and
said they would disoblige him and the Chaplain if they
did so again. They all, however, declared they would
not give it up, and whatever mixed motives may have
prompted their reply, we trust they may benefit by
coming. My husband paid the Chaplain a visit for the
purpose of assuring him that nothing was farther from
his intention than showing any disrespect to him, and
noticed his liberality in remaining to hear Mr. M.'s
sermons.
You cannot, without seeing them, imagine the trials
a poor soldier's wife has to endure.
If the young
Irishwoman, Mrs. A., had not got on board secretly
and concealed herself till we were out at sea, she would
have been left penniless and friendless in England,
with no chance of ever seeing her husband again. This
occurs every time a regiment leaves England, for only
a certain number of women, chosen by lot, may accom-
:
RECRUITS.
13
pany it. What a temptation to vice, and what misery
for them! Few of those on board had sufficient
clothes, and none of them anything like comforts for
the voyage. I never knew how valuable the scraps of
a family dinner could be to poor people until I saw
Mrs. A. make her dinner off part of the mutton-chop
which I have every day for my luncheon-I always
give most of it to her, and often both she and her
husband partake of it, and eat every bit, fat, skin, and
all, leaving nothing but a bare bone. I wish I had
some more arrowroot of my own to give away, for I
can get plenty for myself, but it would not be right to
be charitable out of the ship's stores.
At family worship in the morning, we examine the
Romans, in the evening, Matthew. The young Irish
woman takes a lesson in reading daily, but gets on very
slowly, e. g. she will call "ta-lent"-"Father," and her
husband, C's pupil, although he reads much better,
spells sometimes as follows:-"P-h-i-1 pil, i-p ip,'
Peter!" He is rather an intelligent man, but his in-
terpretation of some passages of Scripture shows the
ignorance of thelower orders in England; for he says
that he knows that most agree with his idea, that "with
what measure ye mete," &c., means that if a man has
sinned, perdition will be meted out to him, so that it is
of no use for him to try to become better. Then, he
thought "Man shall not live by bread alone," meant
that the rich were very wrong not to supply poor
people with meat, by giving them sufficient wages to
buy it or otherwise. However C. has set him right
on these points. We have had very rough weather
lately.
Friday, October 30th.- Just as
October 30th. Just as I had written
"lately" the ship rolled, and away went I and my chair,
letter and pen, as if I had been a "fleeing dragon," to
the other side of the cabin, so there was no more writing
to be done that day.
The recruits on board are wholly unworthy of the
honourable name of soldiers. I never saw such faces
except when we visited Newgate, and C. says in all his
14
ISLAND OF AMSTERDAM.
experience he never saw such a collection of the very
refuse of society. One of the women spoke with tears
in her eyes of the insults she had to endure, and the
vile language she had to hear, although she is in a
little cabin; they have a special spite at her because
she takes up a little space in their over-crowded
barracks.
Some days ago a beautiful albatross was caught with
a hook; it measured eleven feet six inches from wing to
wing; they let it go, but in the afternoon wantonly
caught another, killed it, and cut off its head! The
officers continue shooting at the poor birds in spite of
all that has been said to them, so I am very happy the
birds are deserting us.
I have been much struck with the excellent educa-
tion one of the young ladies has received, without
having had half the advantages that most girls have,
for she has been a great part of her life in Van Dieman's
Land, and I think without a governess. Her father
has been almost her sole instructor. She is a really
good French, Italian, and Spanish scholar, plays on the
guitar, and sings sweetly, is one of the most lady-like
young girls on board, and at the same time very useful
and clever with her needle and in taking care of her
infant sister. It shows how much education depends
on the pupil.
It is now getting warmer, -a few days ago we could
not keep ourselves warm even with shawls and cloaks
by day or by night. Much warmer clothing is required
on board than is usually needed in an English winter.
One should always have things to give away, as arrow-
root, oranges, lemon juice, &c., which are all most
acceptable to poor people on salt rations. Old clothes
and books to lend are also very useful.
Bride cake, made in small sizes and not very rich, is
an excellent thing for a voyage, and keeps good the
whole way.
On the 27th we saw the Island of Amsterdam; it
is 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, very rocky,
with fine precipitous ravines-it is uninhabited. It
OFFICER OVERBOARD.
"6
15
was on this island that the " Lady Monro" was
wrecked in 1833. You will find it mentioned in the
"Church in the Army," No. XVI. In St. Paul's,
which is some distance from it, and which we could not
see, there is a lake with boiling springs in it, so that
fish may be caught iu one part of the lake and boiled in
the other.
The state of the clothes which have come out of the
hold is lamentable. Silk comes out as wet as if it had
been held over the steam of a boiler, but luckily not
spotted.
We have rushed into hot weather with wonderful
rapidity, and nothing can be less like the dreary month
of November.
Sunday, the 1st instant, we again had prayers on
deck. I wore winter clothes, and a wadded velvet
scarf-nothing more in the way of wrapping, for it
was getting mild; the Thursday after, I was over-
powered with heat in a thin muslin dress.
Tuesday, November 10th. We had a dreadful
alarm on Sunday morning! Poor Captain B. has
been getting as mad as ever, since the warm weather
began; but in spite of his evident insanity, no precau-
tion was taken by the military surgeon in charge,
beyond placing a soldier outside his cabin to watch
him through the Venetian blinds; and he was suf-
fered to lock himself in and barricade his door in-
side. On Saturday we were speaking on the subject,
prognosticating some fearful deed if the precautions
that common sense dictated were not taken. The
officers used to divert themselves by going into the
poor man's cabin and laughing at the strange things
he said, especially at his religious fits, for he is con-
stantly praying and reading his Bible, and thinks he
sees visions. I was reading in my cabin, R. was doing
something at the stern-ports, when we heard a voice
close to us from the water; she paused and listened,
and then, clasping her hands, with a face of agony
cried, "Oh, Ma'am, poor Captain B.!" I was on
deck in an instant. Every one, soldiers and all, were
1
[
16
OFFICER OVERBOARD.
crowding aft. He was already almost out of sight.
Mr. Boulton, with great presence of mind, on first
hearing the splash, and the voice crying, "Good bye,
I shall be back again soon!" immediately cut loose
the life-buoy. Two boats were lowered directly, but
it seemed as if they would never give way. A man
was sent to the mizen mast to keep his eye on him,
and at C.'s suggestion a telescope was sent up to him.
I never shall forget the horror of the suspense; there
was no time for thought, nothing but the horrid idea
that a fellow-creature had plunged into the fathomless
ocean. The kind Doctor came and assured me he
thought he would be saved, as he was an excellent
swimmer. I thought this would be some comfort to
the other ladies, so I went below, and found a cabin full
of them; every face on board, man and woman alike,
was paler than usual. The ship was put about, and
soon we were told that the boats were very near him.
As the position of the ship changed, we flew from one
cabin to another to get a view of the boats. Mr.
Consitt, the chief officer, came up to him first-he had
got hold of the life-buoy, but would not come into the
boat until Mr. Consitt frightened him by an allusion to
a shark. When he came near the ship, he again tried
to throw himself over, so that they were obliged to
tie him down, when he began crowing like a cock and
imitating a cuckoo. It was with much difficulty they
got him into his cabin, and he was so violent that he
nearly felled the Doctor with a blow of his fist. Two
soldiers were put in with him, and he made them kneel
and pray with him-I think praise to God must have
risen from every heart for his rescue. We heard
afterwards, that he had fancied he had seen corn-fields
and gardens, and beautiful trees and flowers, in the
distance (of all fancies the most natural on board
ship), and wanted to get to them. In passing by the
ship, he caught a glimpse of Captain H., and waved
his hand to him as he swam away. Good Dr. W.,
calm and cautious as our dear countrymen usually are,
was so transported with indignation at the shameful
VIRTUOUS OLD TIMES.
17
negligence displayed, that he exclaimed, "If that poor
man is drowned, his blood will be on the heads of
those that have had the charge of him." The scene
in the next cabin to ours was a strange one; one lady
stood sobbing, another exclaiming; one of the ayahs
weeping as in duty bound, and another crying, "Oh,
Ma'am, poor dear fine gentleman !”
There was no time to have the awning rigged for
church on deck, so that we had prayers without ser-
mon in the cuddy; and neither then nor in the evening
did the Chaplain insert the slightest notice of the
mercy which had been just vouchsafed.
Mr. M., in his prayer in the afternoon meeting,
thanked God for the preservation of one of our number
from a watery grave, prayed for his restoration to
health of body and serenity of mind, and, above all,
for his eternal salvation.
Wednesday, November 11th, 1846.-Since yesterday
morning, the sea has been like an ocean of glass:
except for the smallest possible heaving, it is like a
smiling, imperturbably good-tempered woman, whom
nothing disturbs, and whom there is no getting on
with; but of the two, the sea is the least trying to my
patience.
They caught a booby a few days ago, but let it fly
again; it is a stupid bird, that suffers itself to be
caught, without even the preliminary of putting salt on
its tail.
We have been reading our neighbour's books, to
save our own for future consumption. I must send
you a passage from "Chambers' Cyclopedia of Litera-
ture"; it is by Bellenden, a Scottish historian of
Jannes V's time, who, in comparing "the new manirs
and the auld of the Scottis," says of "our eldaris,"
"They disjunit airly in the morning with small refec-
tion, and sustenit thair liffis thairwith quhil the time of
sowper, throw quhilk thair stamok was never surfeitly
changit to empeche thaim of uther besiniss. . . . . All
drinkeitis, glutonis, and consumers of vitalis mair nor
was necessar to the sustentation of men, war tane and
1
•
1
18
ANGLO-SAXON LITERATURE.
first commandit to swelly thair fowth (fill) of what
drink they plesit, and incontinent thairafter weir
drownit in ane
ane fresche river"! Were not these
virtuous old days?
Mr. M. has lent us several volumes of "The
American Biblical Repository," the best theological
review I have ever seen. It is full of instructive and
interesting articles, and is written in an excellent
catholic spirit, worthy of the patronage of the Evange-
lical Alliance. I was amused at a quotation from old
Camden, in a paper on Anglo-Saxon Literature. He
says of languages: "The Italian is pleasant, but without
sinews, as a still fleeting water. The French delicate,
but even nice as a woman, scarce daring to open her
lips for fear of marring her countenance. The Spanish
majestical, but fulsome and running too much on the
O, and terrible like the devil in a play. The Dutch
manlike, but withal very harsh, as one ready to pick a
quarrel at any word"!-And then the conceited old
writer concludes, that "the English, like bees, gather
the honey of their good qualities, and leave the dregs to
themselves!!"
It is so hot I make a partition in the cabin and let
the ladies daily come in to enjoy my shower-bath. This
is really a beautifully built ship. We have passed
every one we have seen: she is wonderfully steady,
though very long; she only wants more ballast to keep
her from leaning over so much, for at present she is like
a cork on the water. We have now and then a cats-
paw (which C. explained to me to be a sea zephyr), but
no wind. However, after such a beautiful voyage as
we have hitherto had, it would be most ungrateful to
complain.
Tuesday, November 17th; 10° 40′ N. latitude.—Ever
since I wrote last we have had very little wind, but
excessive heat, and instead of beautiful runs of 220 and
250 miles, we have only made from 40 to 70 daily.
To-day we have a little breeze, more welcome than can
be described. Two events; killed a centipede in our
cabin; it was about two inches and a half long, very
BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE AT SUNRISE.
19
like a caterpillar, only with feet like claws. A shark
was also caught: the water was so still and trans-
parent that I saw him quite plainly rushing about and
seizing the bait. I could not have imagined so power-
ful and boisterous a fish; he was only about eight feet
long, but with immense fins, and rushed on his prey with
amazing bustle and voraciousness. They hauled him
up, and for some time he hung close to one of the stern
windows, where we saw him perfectly; he was brown
on the back, and white underneath. I saw quite down
his throat, which was all white; his teeth in rows lying
flat; his mouth was quite big enough to have snapped
off one's head. They let him into the water again and
towed him round to the starboard side. I went on deck
to see him hauled up, but it was ill managed; the shark
gave a violent jerk, broke loose (although the hook
had gone quite through the upper jaw, or at least
through the cartilage), and we soon saw him tumbling
about in a terrible rage. If you wish to see 150
men in one unanimous pout, you should have been
on deck then; the very Captain was so annoyed that
he passed me with downcast looks and without shaking
hands.
We have lovely sunsets and sun-risings. The dawn
yesterday surpassed any I ever saw, and almost every
evening the sky is adorned with huge tracts of the
richest amber, and others of the most glorious crimson
hues, with light clouds above of the most brilliant rose
colour. Sometimes near the sun there is even a greenish
tinge. Remark this fact, for artists generally say there
is no green in the sky, but I have observed it repeatedly.
Two days ago there was a beautiful appearance at sun-
rise, a white cloud hung down like a curtain, in front of
it floated a darker one with bright edges, like a huge
fish, while far behind and around both, stretched, as it
were, an ocean of transparent ether in which they
floated; it was like clear water in the sky. The sky at
night is most lovely. I only saw the Southern Cross
once; we have now lost sight of it. I never saw the
new moon with an old moon in her arms so clearly as
:
20
BAY OF BENGAL.
some time ago. The whole orb was distinctly visible.
Arnott (whose "Elements of Physics" I have been
reading) says that it is the light reflected from the
illuminated side of the earth, which renders the shady
side of the moon thus partially visible.
We have made ninety-two miles to-day in the right
direction, so that we may hope to be in Calcutta early
next week. Mr. M., the missionary, told us a very
interesting story of an Afghán who fell sick and was
robbed on his way to sell figs and grapes in Calcutta.
He sought assistance from his co-religionists, who
recommended him to apply to the Mirzápúr Mission.
He did so, was kindly treated, recovered his health, and
showed a daily increasing interest in the gospel, which
at last ripened, so far as human judgment could ascer-
tain, into a joyful reception of it. He was baptized,
and gave the greatest satisfaction to the missionaries,
until he could no longer repress his desire to make
known the glad tidings of salvation to his own kinsfolk.
He started for Afghánistan; but died on his journey.
Much as one regrets that he was not permitted to preach
the gospel in his own country, it is a joyful thought
that at least one Afghán is safe within the city which
hath foundations whose builder or maker is God.
Monday, November 23rd, 1846.-Bay of Bengal,
seventy-seven miles from the Sand Heads. The weather
continues exceedingly warm. We were in hopes we
should have got the pilot on Saturday; but the wind
is right ahead of us, and we have to tack, etc., and are
so far come down from our former ambitious hopes,
that we are very glad if we make forty-five to seventy
miles of latitude in the twenty-four hours. This, how-
ever, was to be expected at this season. From England
to crossing the line the second time we made an average
of 181 miles daily. We have had beautiful weather,
very little rain; and I think nothing can surpass the
deliciousness of a tropical evening on board ship, when
there is plenty of air: the breeze is at once so mild
and so refreshing. Almost every one has improved in
health during the voyage. The food, which at first
YOUNG LADIES ON BOARD.
21
seemed very bad, has been very good since we became
stronger and not so dainty. Now, alas! our two cows
are both sick, so there was no milk at all this morning.
I have just breakfasted on lime-juice and water and
bread and jam; no great hardship, you will say.
We have lately seen some of the luminous creatures
which abound in tropical seas. Sitting in my cabin, in
the dark, the other night, the dark blue sea, with the
living stars flashing forth their brilliant light in the
wake of the ship, formed an exact counterpart to the
starry firmament above. The sunrise on Sunday was
most lovely; no description can convey an idea of the
brilliant rose-colour flames which illuminated the sky.
Wednesday, November 25th. Yesterday morning,
on rising, we found the sea green, instead of the deep,
dark, beautiful blue it has hitherto appeared. This is
a sign that we are really approaching land. The time
has passed very quickly of late; and if it were not for
our anxiety for letters, I should be in no great haste to
arrive. For the sake of several on board I shall rejoice:
two of the most amiable and lady-like girls have been
making geese of themselves, by associating with others,
whose society is anything but beneficial. I do not
think a girl can be put to a severer trial of character
and taste than by being sent on a voyage to India: I
only trust our children will never be exposed to it. I
never knew before how much the best inclined girls
required guidance, or what errors they unavoidably fall
into from their ignorance of the world, when deprived
of a mother's care.
On Monday Mr. Consitt, the chief officer, told us
some very interesting stories. When he was about
eighteen, he went out to Montreal as second mate, in a
vessel of 350 tons. The whole ship's company, with
the exception of the captain, the carpenter, himself,
and one of the men, were carried off by the cholera
morbus; they were, therefore, obliged to make up a
crew as best they could, and such a set were seldom
seen. Only two or three could steer; most of them
were mere landsmen; the majority Irish, and of very
22
ASSASSIN AND SUICIDE.
disreputable appearance. Mr. Consitt was now chief
mate; and he and the captain had to take watch about.
They had great trouble with the men, particularly with
an Irishman named Dennis, who constantly pretended
to be sick when he was not. The captain kept him on
deck for two or three days, and made him work, which
of course displeased him very much. The vessel was
laden with timber up to the top of the bulwarks, so
that there was no railing or other protection against
falling overboard. They were off the coast of New-
foundland, the weather very stormy, and the crew very
inefficient; one very dark night Mr. Consitt had the
first watch, from eight to twelve, when a man came aft
and said Dennis was sitting in the chains drinking salt
water; they had been on short allowance for several
days. Mr. Consitt went forward, and asked him what
he was doing: the man said "Nothing," came aft, and
leant against the shrouds. He was dressed merely in
his shirt and trousers, and stood with his right hand
concealed in his bosom. Mr. Consitt asked him what
he wanted; he said, "To see the captain." Mr. Consitt
answered, "Well, it is now half-past eleven, he will be
up at twelve,”—and as he turned away, this huge ruffian
seized him by the collar, and stabbed him thrice with a
large carving-knife; one blow went through his arm,
another split one of the buttons of his pea-coat, and
broke against his breast-bone, The man hurled the
haft at Mr. Consitt's head, and joining his hands over
his head, plunged into the sea. The only boat was
hanging between the masts for safety, the night was
dark, the wind was high, and not even an attempt
could be made to save the wretched man. No clue to
his former circumstances was found in his chest. If
instead of stabbing, he had endeavoured to throw the
young officer overboard, the destruction of the latter
would have been inevitable.
Mr. Consitt also told us, that the last attack known
of pirates upon a vessel of any size, was about ten years
ago, when "The Morning Star," of about 300 tons,
was within two days' sail of St. Helena. A pirate brig
LATEST CASE OF PIRACY
23
hove in sight: the captain of the vessel was for resist-
ing, but a major, in command of fifty invalids on board,
refused, and recommended submission. The captain
and one of his officers, who went on board the pirate,
were sent down below and cut to pieces. The mate of
the pirate brig came on board "The Morning Star,"
with some of his vile crew, put the passengers under
the hatches, which they fastened down by placing casks
upon them, ransacked and plundered everything, and
forced the servants to wait on them with wine and food
in the cuddy, where also they kept five or six ladies
who were on board. At last they scuttled the ship and
left her. The ladies, whose hands were tied, managed
to get them free, and released the passengers and crew,
who found out the leak, plugged it, and bore away for
Ascension. Some years after, the pirate captain, who
was a Spaniard, was hung at Gibraltar, and confessed
that he had given orders to his mate to murder every
person on board, and such was his indignation at find
ing that the ship had only been scuttled, that he had
returned to the spot to complete the work of blood,
but fortunately "The Morning Star" was already out
of sight.
I must mention one thing which truly has no con-
nection with the foregoing. It is the quantity of wine
most of the ladies drink. One young bride of twenty
takes pure brandy in large quantities, and even well-
behaved, lady-like young girls take more wine than C.
does. A glass at lunch, two or three at dinner, with
beer, and a glass of negus at night, is scandalous, yet
this seems to be a general practice on board passenger-
ships; but surely this habit must have been begun at
home. I no longer wonder at foreigners reproaching
us with it. It strikes me more now from seeing the
temperance of the Germans.
We are now very near Calcutta. On Tuesday, as we
were at dinner, we heard that a steamer was in sight,
and had offered to take us in tow. You cannot imagine
the excitement-she came rushing towards us, and
never did I feel such admiration for her self-propelling
21
THE STEAMER "DWARKANATH.”
power, as when I saw her moving freely towards us,
who were the slaves of a contrary wind. She was the
"Dwarkanáth." Some natives were on deck; at first
I almost took them for wooden figures, so immovable
were they, and so thin. Every one crowded to the
bulwarks, solemn silence prevailed while the Captain
roared questions through his trumpet.
"All quiet
"the Governor-General in the Upper Provinces."
These were our first bits of news, for which we listened
as for the notes of a nightingale; then a man brought
some papers with nothing in them, and soon after, amid
immense bustle, the "Dwarkanáth" took us in tow. We
felt ourselves once more members of society, and inha-
bitants of the world. Such a sunset! so gorgeously
magnificent, came to add to our pleasure. About nine
o'clock we got the pilot, ninety-four days since our
English one left us-an excellent passage for the season.
The Pilot is not a rough tarry creature as I expected.
but a gentleman, with very pleasing manners. We
crowded round him to hear the news; there was not
much. We have been talking of little else but "the
Pilot" for the last week.
Thursday, November 26th.-On getting up yesterday
morning, we were in the Húglí, near Ságar Island; my
first address on seeing it was,-"You dirty, ugly, slug-
gish thing," the water drawn from it was so muddy
that it was impossible to bathe in it. A boat came
alongside with ghostly figures robed in white; to my
great satisfaction it remained under our windows, and I
made a sketch of it, which I mean to send home. Other
boats soon came with plantains; R. bought some, and
I thought them very good, though I was told they were
very bad ones. We had eggs for breakfast-I ate a
mouthful, drew a figure, ate a little more, and could
settle to nothing.
In the middle of the day we came to Kedgéri, where
the first post office is. A Dák boat put off and brought
letters for several of us; a most affectionate line from
Julia C. for us. One lady was joyful; her husband had
got an excellent appointment, and was to be in Calcutta.
APPEARANCE OF THE SHORE.
25
in a fortnight, and she is spared a long journey by her-
self to Kashmere. Another went into hysterics on
hearing that her husband was well. Several shed a
few tears at receiving no letter, though they could not
expect one. Towards evening, the river grew narrower,
and we inhaled the delightful smell of land. No per-
fume can equal it: it has been cooler the last few days,
the thermometer about 77°. I was much amused by
seeing the boatmen eat; they wash their heads, their
teeth, their bodies, their arms and legs most diligently;
then each man sits down to a huge metal dish of coarse
rice; then they washed, washed, washed again; then
some of them ate more rice, and then began again to
wash; they are very slender, but well made, and their
attitudes most picturesque. They wear a long cloth
wrapped round the body, somewhat like a pair of drawers,
and when cold a large chaddah, or sheet, which they
usually draw over the head: it is just like the Roman
toga, and makes beautiful drapery. Some of the men
wear their hair à la Chinoise, knotted up like a woman's;
the others, shaggy-wise and short.
not.
A lad came on board in the evening with some fish ;
he was thirteen, very slender, and, like the rest, seem-
ingly very poor; their garments are coarse cloth of
whitey-brown hue. He asked us for-what do you
think?—a pack of cards to play with; which we had
So C. gave him a shilling instead, which he said
he would give to his mother. Mr. M. brought me a
mango fish and a prawn to see. The former is such a
delicacy, that an epicure of bygone days pronounced it
worth coming to India for it is about eight inches
long, with a beard longer than itself; the prawn was
nearly as big, beautiful to behold, but terrible to eat,
for they feed on the bodies washed down the rivers. It
was a beautiful chrysoprase green, semi-transparent.
The shores are quite flat, just like Holland. As we
came nearer, I was struck with the unforeign appearance
of the scenery; there was nothing to distinguish it from
the banks of the Thames, save the absence of houses
(all of which are here hidden amongst the trees), and
VOL. I.
C
*
26
SAILORS AND BIBLES.
a few palms, which at a distance formed no prominent
feature of the landscape; but then the sunset recalled
one to the tropics. The sun went down like a burning
ruby: you may imagine how glorious the red light was,
when I tell you my attention was drawn to it by seeing
a mahogany door of a beautiful crimson. The evening
would have been perfect, had not the chief officer,
incited by nautical vanity, nearly poisoned us by paint-
ing the ship.
We hope to be in to-day about four P.M. I forgot
to tell you that we anchored both last night and the
night before on account of the tide; we got up about
five miles beyond Diamond Harbour last night. Had
it not been for so opportunely falling in with the
steamer when we did, we could not have arrived before
Friday. My servant is packing up with great joy.
The other day C. asked an old quarter-master if any
of the men wanted Bibles; four gave their names, and
added at the end of the list, "We shall think it very
kind of you;" and when C. gave one some tracts, he
said, "Ah, many people think, sir, that sailors never
think of these things, but that is not the case." We
finished Romans last night.
27
CHAPTER II.
Calcutta-The Course-Free Kirk-Native Town-Dr. Duff-Sparrows
General Assembly Institutions - Cricket Crows Botanical
Garden Jacob-Jewish and Armenian School-Miss Laing's School
-Dumdum-The Sind Amir's idea of Prayer-Suburbs-Catechist's
Jagadishwar-Prasunar's Elopement-The old Rajput and his Sons-
Kaputli Nach-Caricature of English Manners-Bonamali-A Yoghi
General von Gagern-Medical College-Mussulman Obduracy-
Church of England-Muharram-Krishna-Mohan Banerji-Alipore
-New Year's Day-Union Chapel-Calcutta Christians-Mr. Wilson's
School-Telegraph Hay-A Brahman Convert-Poinsettia-Bathing
Bearers-Rev. J. Macdonald-Communion-Miss Laing's School
Charlotte Green Examination of Baranagar School - Bengal
Brahmans-Death of Dr. Carey.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 27th.-A happy woman am I to
be here in Calcutta, and to have had such good accounts
of those so unspeakably dear to me. No one can tell
how I longed to hear of you, and how I long that you
should know what we are doing. We dined yesterday
at two o'clock, and immediately after went on deck:
the nearer we approached Calcutta the prettier the
shores became, from being studded with numerous
European houses and gardens, the former much hand-
somer than I expected, and mostly two stories high.
Suddenly the anchor was let go; every one asked
"Why?" with disappointment in their looks-the
simple reason was, we were arrived! The scene was
pretty; numerous ships at anchor around us, and
curious boats of various kinds; some gentlemen were
seen approaching, with bearers holding umbrellas over
their heads, coming for the ladies on board;-imagine
c 2
28
<<
CALCUTTA,
the bustle. We went on shore in a boliah, a kind of
gondola only larger, and rowed in the ordinary way.
C. cxhorted the men to pull by crying "Shabash,"
Bravo," etc., to which they responded by a simulta-
neous shout of quite dramatic effect. We were carried
over the mud on a wooden seat, and found the Camerons'
carriage waiting for us. Two of the ladies and I, with
two birdcages and L.'s picture (which, a few minutes
before, had been in the arms of a dirty cooly!) were
packed into the chariot, and despatched to Mr. P.'s, at
Alipúr.
While waiting on the shore, the scene was most
picturesque. It was a lovely moonlight, so still and
silent that, as the white-robed graceful figures marched
slowly past, it appeared like a scene in a drama. We
drove over a fine suspension bridge and along the
course, passed a native village, which, in the uncertain
light, looked like a fair, and arrived at a noble house.
in the midst of a small park. I was astonished at the
size and beauty of the houses. After depositing Miss D.
at Col. Forbes's, a fine old gentleman, who came out
and pressed me most hospitably to stay to dinner,
though he had never seen me before, I arrived at the
C.'s, and met a warm welcome from Julia.
I was
amused with my drive; the carriage was an English-like
chariot, with a roof above the real one, projecting half
a foot on every side, and with a large open window at
the back as well as in the front; it looked very droll to
see a coachman with a little turban. I just looked at
the letters to see that you were all well, and then went
to dinner. Mr. C. is small and slight, with a very
intellectual and young face, and bright eye, with long
snow-white hair combed backwards; I like him much,
and felt at home directly. The iced water and delicious
fine white bread were luxuries to us: and it was plea-
santly cool, even with a silk dress on.
The servants who wait at table are always Muham-
madans; they were dressed wholly in white, with white
and crimson turbans-very picturesque. The people
here have nothing of the heavy sauntering motions of
DOMESTIC SERVANTS.
29
the negro; all their movements are remarkably free,
unconstrained, and graceful. Six servants waited at
table, besides which, a bearer clothed in crimson, and
an ayah, sat on the floor in a corner amusing little
Ewen, who is nearly three years old, by setting up his
toys for him. The rooms are very lofty (about twenty
feet high), handsomely furnished; but the rafters are
all seen, which, although they are painted green, gives
an unfinished look to the interior. Very spacious
verandahs surround the houses: the beds stand in the
middle of the room with a Phanka over them.
Lord Hardinge has written to offer C. the command
of one of the four Sikh regiments to be raised on the
Satlej (pay about 800 rupees a month), if he thought
it worth his acceptance. C. immediately decided on
taking it, and as this appointment has thus been put
into our hands by a bounteous Heavenly Father, without
any exertion on our part (beyond forwarding the letters
of introduction), it seems all the more clearly His will
that we should go, and my heart rose with thankfulness
to Him for His innumerable mercies.
C. was sitting in the verandah with Mr. C. and
another friend. A man came and made salám: C. said,
"How are you? Have you a place ?" "No!" "Then
go up and brush my clothes." The two gentlemen
stared at each other, until he explained that this was
his old sirdár bearer or (chief bearer) Bonamáli, who
was with him in captivity, and whom he bribed an
Afghán to send to Jelalabad, instead of which they
made him eat beef and lose caste.
.
It is odd to fecl dumb. This morning I put my head
out of the door, and two graceful, bearded, grave
Muhammadans came and made salám to me: I said,
"Rivers" they made another salám. "Rivers," said
I again, and they salámed once more, till at last I
cried "Ayah," when they nodded their heads intelli-
gently and departed. In every room there are three or
four people—two at least on each landing. J. has sixty
servants in all she has four or five European women in
the house, who seem to help each other in doing nothing.
30
GARDEN REACH-DR. DUFF.
On Saturday I drove with her and the children on
the course and through the fort: the former is the
fashionable drive along the river, and was crowded with
carriages-some very handsome-some odd Palanquin-
carriages, hackaries drawn by small oxen, buggies, and
many equestrians. The native grooms often run by
the side of the carriages. All visits are paid before two,
after which no one comes, as it is too hot.
On Sunday we went to the Free Kirk; the service
began at ten o'clock. It was very cool and pleasant,
and the room reminded me of Mr. Lovett's Chapel at
Paris: Dr. Duff preached. C. went into the vestry
after service, and Dr. Duff asked us both to breakfast
with him on Tuesday, at half-past eight. In the even-
ing, at seven, we heard a younger minister. A child
was baptized. The service is so simple and so scrip-
tural, Priscilla and Aquila might have brought their
first-born, and Paul might have received him into the
visible church of the faithful without a change.
Yesterday, C. and I took Mrs. D. and Miss M. a
drive to Garden Reach, about three miles frum Calcutta.
We passed through a native village. It is dark here
by six o'clock, the moon high by half-past six, and I
cannot tell you how picturesque the huts appeared
peeping from among the trees, with sheds before them
full of grain, fruit, &c., for sale, with several lights in
each, and the groups of the white-robed natives seated
or strolling about.
This morning we had a delightful drive to the
Baitakháná, where Dr. Duff lives. It was through
the native part of the town; and so picturesque are the
people, so beautiful their forms, so free and graceful in
action, and so remarkably still when in repose, that it
was like seeing a succession of pictures, or a gallery of
antique bronze statues. Their faces are often very fine,
and one is not at all struck with their scanty clothing.
They give one more the idea of modesty in dress than
half the young ladies you see at Court, or in full cos-
tume; I think this arises from the intention being in the
one case to hide the figure, in the other to display it.
MAN-SERVANTS.
31.
Whenever a carriage drives up to a house, the gate-
keeper gives as many strokes on the gong as there are
persons within. Dr. Duff met us at the door in the
most kind manner, and we were equally pleased with
his wife. The rooms have as many doors in them as
possible for coolness, and the one we breakfasted in
was on the ground floor, the walls quite bare, the room
matted, and rather dark, with no windows whatever,
but two great doors opening into the porch, very cool
and pleasant. We sang the last three verses of the
43rd Psalm, read a portion of Scripture, and then Dr.
Duff prayed, He gave me the "Life of Mahendra,"
and that of " Koilas," and to C. his own "Lectures on
the Free Kirk." He is a much younger man than I
expected, but seems in delicate health, and draws his
breath every now and then, as if his chest were weak.
In speaking of children, he said he thought the prayers
and the correspondence of the parents, great means of
conversion. The school which was formerly Mrs. Wil-
son's is now much fallen off, both in numbers and effi-
ciency, but the Free Kirk has an Orphan School of its
own for girls, under the superintendence of Miss Laing,
which we are to see.
Thursday, December 3rd.-I have just ordered two
pairs of shoes from a Chinaman with a long tail. Our
two bearers come in as soon as I am ready in the morn-
ing, to make the bed-such a bed! it makes one ache
all over; it is only one mattrass, as hard as a board,
and this they say is wholesome. In the evening the
bearers come in again to prepare the bed, and put on
the musquito curtains, and then, with equal gravity,
put on Dicky's over his cage-without one he would
be killed by the musquitoes. It is a very odious custom
to have man-servants for ladies' apartments. I sent
the other day for a tin-wallah (I think "wallah" must
signify man or fellow) to open my case of dresses-one
of the bearers came in to help him; the latter inserted
the point of a chisel, with a huge head, under the lid;
the tin-wallah struck it with a queer-looking hammer,
each man using only one hand. The natives are very
32
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
quick observers of manner, and are very sociable and
frank (though perfectly respectful) to those who, like
C., they know will take it kindly. On going to dine
with Maria J. last night, we had three men behind the
carriage, and one on the box beside the coachman, the
superfluous ones came because they liked the drive. It
is a most picturesque thing to go through the native.
streets at night, and to see rows of sheds, like out-
houses of the most pitiful kind in England, and in each
of them lights, with a group of men hard at work at
their respective trades. I never enjoyed driving about
any place so much as this. Some of the better dwel-
lings remind one very much of those at Pompeii, for
they have no light except from the door, and are exces-
sively small. Doubtless the habits of the people were
very similar. It is curious to see the sparrows flying
about the drawing-room; they build on the cornices,
and their twittering is very cheerful; they did so of old
in the Temple, see Psalm lxxxiv. 3, and when I see
them flying in and out, I can understand how David
must have envied them their familiarity with that holy
place, from which he was exiled.
Tuesday, December 8th.-I have been longing to tell
you about our visit to the Free Church College, on
Saturday. Dr. Welsh accompanied us to Dr. Duff's,
where we breakfasted, and immediately afterwards Dr.
Duff and I, in a close carriage, and C. and Dr. Welsh
in a buggy, drove to the institution. Our road led
through the native town, the varied groups in which.
afforded me as much pleasure as usual. Mrs. Duff is a
very attractive person, seemingly a most fit helpmeet
for him. Dr. Duff is not much like that print at
Nisbet's the nose there is too short, and the face too
broad. He is a man in the prime of life, but appa-
rently far from strong; the sharp blade is wearing
through its earthly sheath. The institution is situated
in the best part of Native Town, and was formerly the
house of some great personage. We found numbers
of pupils waiting for the bell, which rings at ten o'clock,
and were introduced to Mr. Ewart in the library; a
i
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
33
fine, tall, clerical-looking man, with a very mild, calm
face. Captain Henning joined us, and Dr. Duff then
led me into a long gallery, with windows closed by
Venetian blinds on each side. Here one of the mission-
aries offered up prayer. About 200 of the elder pupils
voluntarily attend; they were all dressed most simply,
like the majority of natives here, in white; their hair
short, like English boys, with no mark of caste, and
many of them with shoes. I never saw more steadfast
and apparently devout attention. Remember these are
heathen youths, attending by choice on Christian
worship. Out of 1000 pupils only about twelve are
professed Christians. Dr. Duff then took us round the
building, which is very spacious, so that each class has
plenty of room.
The first class we heard examined had been in the
institution about a year. To my surprise their teacher
(one of the senior pupils, each of whom teaches a class
for one hour daily) asked them in English, "Who was
the first man?". "Adam," was the answer, shouted by
half a hundred young voices.
"Who was the first
woman ?—“ Eve," cried they. "Who made them?"-
"God," answered they. "In what state were they-
how did they lose that state?" were the next questions.
Dr. Duff explained to them in English the deceit of the
serpent, spoke of lying, asked them if they did not often
hear lies; to all of which they answered perfectly well,
just as well-taught children at home would do. But
what struck me most was the eagerness and animation
with which they answered; the intelligence and mirth
which sparkled in their eyes whenever anything amused
them, and the pleasure with which they listened to what
was said. I never saw a teacher on such delightful
terms with his pupils.
When Dr. Duff spoke to the boys, he was answered
by them exactly as a beloved parent. The next class
were of the same standing, and were taking a lesson
from a learned Pandit in Bengali. We then descended
to what was formerly the domestic temple, a beautiful
hall, with arches opening into the court, round which
c 3
34
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
the house is built. Here the two youngest classes were
learning-they teach them as follows:-The monitor
puts an O on the stand, and tells them that letter is
called O, they all repeat it. He then puts up an X,
tells them its name, and then teaches them that these
two letters form the English name of an ox. He makes
them describe the ox, and tells them the English word
for every part of it. This he did before us, asking them
in Bengali what has an ox on his head, they cried
horns, ears, eyes, and mouth, &c. in English. He cross-
questioned them about it. "What are its feet for?"
"To walk" shouted they." Why, then, does not this
(pointing to the stand) walk?"-"Because it has got
no life," was their answer. Some of the children were
very pretty. All have the most beautiful large diamond-
like expressive black eyes imaginable. The next class
above this have a book given them, and seeing the same
words they have already learnt, find they have begun
to read. They learn short phrases, and are questioned on
each. "Chalk is white." "What is white?" "Chalk.'
"What is Chalk?" "White." All in English. In
every lesson, and at every stage, they are questioned
and cross-questioned in every possible manner which
the ingenuity of the teacher can devise, whereas in the
native schools they are merely crammed with so many
words by heart, and no pretence is ever made of teach-
ing them the meaning. As each monitor is only em-
ployed in teaching one hour in the day, his energies are
are all fresh, and I never saw any school where there
was so much life and spirit displayed both by the teacher
and the taught. Every one was alive, awake, eager,
happy, and intelligent; certainly they are a most quick-
witted, intelligent race; they understand a word or a
sign in a moment, and prick up their ears at every-
thing that is going on.
""
The next class we stopped at was composed of elder
boys, they were reading an English history of Bengal;
Dr. Duff questioned them on it, and then led them to
consider the origin of the diversity of language in the
world. They could not answer him at first, but when
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
35
he broke up his questions into smaller ones, they replied
rightly. When they can understand English they are
instructed exactly as Christian boys would be. An
hour each day is devoted to the Bible or the Evidences;
their very earliest books contain Christian instruction,
and those in the College department learn the shorter
Catechism, the Confession of Faith, and read such
books as "Horne's Evidences," "Mundy's Christianity
and Hinduism Contrasted," and "Erskine's Internal
Evidences." Dr. Duff loses no opportunity of bringing
every subject to bear on the one thing needful. In this
instance he asked them what "Pújá" was? they replied
"Worship offered to different gods"-one said in a loud
voice, "to false gods." "Did they know any com-
mandment forbidding that?" They quoted the first
and second. "Was it lawful to do so?" They answered
"No;" and one cried, "it is dishonouring God." Dr.
Duff asked them who several of their gods were? and
how they were represented? "The God of War is
represented riding upon a pig." "A pig!-that is a
very warlike animal," said Dr. Duff right merrily,
whereupon there was such a display of white teeth,
and such mirthful looks, as showed they had wonder-
fully small respect for the warlike deity. He then
made them describe Durga, the consort of Siva and
Goddess of Destruction. "A very sweet and merciful
goddess, was she not?" This they denied laughingly,
and told how she had a dozen arms to slay men with,
and a necklace of sculls, and a girdle of hands and
feet; in face quite black, and her tongue hanging
out the length of a span! Then he asked them the
name of the Governor-General, the name of the
Queen, whose deputy he was, and inquired what they
would expect him to feel if some of his subjects,
instead of going to make salám to him, were to go
down to the river side, take some clay, make it up into
any shape they pleased, and then salám to it; would he
not be much displeased, and look on it as an insult that
they should consider it better to pay respect to this
clay than to himself? And so it is with the Most
36
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
High God. I can only give you a very imperfect
account of all Dr. Duff said.
We then returned to the chief lecture-room, where
one of the younger classes received a lesson on Natural
History, repeated some texts and hymns, among them
that beautiful one, "Oh! that will be joyful, joyful,
joyful!" Was not this enough to stir the very depths
of one's heart? An elder class were then examined
in geography, and a still more advanced one in the use
of the globes. The teacher of the latter is a regular
master in the institution, and was one of the first pupils
when it was opened fifteen years ago.
His name is
Isha Chandra De. He asked them, among other things,
how they could prove the earth was flattened at the
poles? The answer was, by the increased velocity of
the pendulum, and they explained this step by step.
They use "Keith on the Globes," and stated the names
of the planets, and the distance of several of them.
Here again, after other questions, Dr. Duff spoke to
them of their responsibility on account of what they
knew of the way of salvation. They answered as
Christian lads would have done, and he then urged
them to lay these things to heart, and to beware of
resisting the truth. While we were afterwards pausing
for a few minutes, C. asked Isha Chandra De if he
were a Christian? He said, "No, God alone can give
belief." C. told him of the anxiety he felt that others
should share those blessings, which he knew the Gospel
offered, and promised him "Gregory's Evidences,"
which he accepted with great pleasure, and said he
would read it. This young man has taken pains to
instruct his wife, a thing which is always vehemently
opposed by the family.
Looking out on the court, we saw the younger boys
enjoying football and cricket, which is considered a kind
of miracle in the soft indolent Bengális. Here there
was nothing but energy and life, yet I remarked how
much more gentle, and therefore gentlemanly, they are
in their manners than English boys, there was no rough.
horse-play, no rudeness; they say an Indian boy never
or any
FREE CHURCH COLLEGE.
37
dreams of robbing a bird's nest, hunting a cat, boxing,
other of those innumerable cruel acts which many
English fathers view with complacency as evidences of
the manly spirit which is to fit their sons for the
hunting field. In this matter the heathen boys behave
as Christians should do. We returned to the lecture-
room and heard one of the senior classes examined in
logic and political economy.
All the examinations
were impromptu, so that in many instances only one or
two in the class could give the exact answer—they
showed that in a syllogism the predicate is contained
in the major proposition. Dr. Duff then asked them
if this was the case what is the use of logic? and ex-
plained it to be a process of developing truth, which
really is there, but which is hidden from the person to
whom you speak-just as in chemistry, you affirm that
the air is composed of two gases. Another says, "How
can it be, I don't see that." The chemist analyses the
atmosphere and shows it to him-so in logic. You
say man is responsible, another denies it. How would
you prove it. Man has freedom of action, conscience,
intellect, &c., &c. This is granted, but these faculties
would not have been given him by God except for some
good purpose--wherefore man is responsible to God
for the use he makes of them; this was elicited from
the pupils, by questions.
In Political Economy they showed the use of division
of labour, of merchants, of the learned and theoretical
members of a community. I asked (through Dr. Duff)
what was the use of those persons who lived on their
own resource without working; they answered, "None
at all," and one added, "unless they spend their money
in doing good." It never struck me so forcibly before,
how utterly useless is the state of those "who live at
home at ease," unless they fill the office God has espe-
cially allotted to them of caring for the poor.
Here we were interrupted by a crowd of white-robed
students, bringing in a model steam-engine. Bona
Máli De, one of the teachers, brother-in-law to Isha
Chandrá De, explained it most clearly. He told us he
38
VISIT TO SIR HENRY SETON.
was of the Weaver caste. We saw the room where
evening service is held every Sabbath in English, many
of the pupils attend, and also some from the Hindù
Government College. In fact, they are better instructed
in Christianity than half the young men at home. But
Satan and the evil heart of unbelief keep them from
renouncing all things for Christ's sake; yet they believe
Christianity with the intellect, will argue for it, and will
prove it. The very worst, those who most entirely go
back to Hindu habits on leaving the institution, yet
better than uneducated Hindus, and desire education
continue for their children. Many instruct their young
daughters and wives. About three-fourths of these lads
are married. The daily attendance is nearly 1,000.
More than 1,280 are on the books, and even during the
Hindu holidays, when every other educational institu-
tion is closed, and all the public offices shut, the average
daily attendance has been upwards of 600. On the
greatest day of the Durga Pujá in 1844, 125 were
present. I look on these two last facts as the most
remarkable of any. It shows what a shake Hinduism
has received. Pray that the Lord will send down the
dew of His Spirit on this institution and this land,
that they may bring forth fruit to the glory of His
Holy Name!
Monday, December 14, 1846.-Since last I wrote
we have been busy preparing for our Dâk trip, and
nothing very worthy of record has occurred; but I
must mention the crows, who are the boldest and most
impudent birds I ever saw; a London sparrow is shy
and retiring in comparison. I saw one the other day
come into a room in Spence's Hotel and eat a piece of
meat on the top of the Phankáh. Saucy sparrows
building in the drawing-room, crows haunting one's
bed-room, and jackals howling under the windows at
night!
Tuesday, December 15th. - We went to Garden
Reach to spend the day at Sir Henry Seton's (one of
the judges), who placed his house at our disposal. It
is close to the river, and has a pretty garden. J. took
JACOB, AND A CONVERTED JEW.
39
us to see a small dispensary, which she has built in
memory of her mother. It consists of two rooms, one
for the sleeping-room of the native doctor, and one to
receive the patients: she pays him twenty rupees a
month. We returned to a sumptuous tiffin, fit for a
dinner-party, and afterwards went across the water to
the Botanical Gardens. A steamer appeared just as
we left the house, which to our great joy proved to be
the long-wished-for mail from England. The sun was
exceedingly hot, so that I rejoiced greatly when, after
a walk, we reached the two banian trees, one of which
is the boast of the garden. Here we sat, and I
sketched a little boy holding his infant brother astride
on his left hip, the usual way of carrying children here.
It was a little, soft, smooth thing, with no other cloth-
ing than necklace and bangles; its large eyes disfigured
with the black dye called surma, and its eyebrows painted
very thick and made to join in the middle, which quite
destroyed the sweet expression the Bengáli children
usually have. I then drew a queer little child of five
years old, wrapped up in its single garment from its
head nearly to its feet, the father standing by quite
pleased. Then came a bigger boy with a burden on his
head, evidently on purpose to be drawn, and stood as
still as any professional model without being told. On
our return, Sir Henry Seton, a most courteous old man,
met us at the steps and gave us tea before he would let
us depart.
The next morning we received our home letters, and
in the afternoon came the lovely little watch. Just
after breakfast to our great joy Jacob, our most faithful
and invaluable Christian servant, rejoined us, having
arrived by the steamer, and with him a Jew from
Madras, named Abraham Joseph, a native of Damascus,
who was converted through the instrumentality of the
Rev. Mr. Lugard, an English chaplain, in 1845. A
cousin of his, named Jacob, professed Christianity at
the same time; they were both baptized, and, after
some delay, forwarded to Jerusalem. When they
arrived the bishop had just died, and the rabbies were
40
JEWISH AND ARMENIAN SCHOOLS.
using every means to oppose Christianity. Abraham
stood fast, but his cousin relapsed to Judaism. Even-
tually the former expressed a wish to return to Mr.
Lugard, and Mr. Nicolayson accordingly sent him back;
a most unfortunate step, since there is not a single Jew
in Madras: nobody speaks Hebrew, and very few know
ten words of Hindústáni, which are the only two lan-
guages Abraham understands; he was, therefore, wholly
deprived of Christian society, and of the means of grace.
Mr. Lugard, therefore, having consulted, as he says,
"with our dear friends of the Free Church Mission at
Madras," sent him to Dr. Duff, who has a small Christian
congregation of about twelve Jews, to whom he preaches
every Sabbath in Hindústáni. My husband sent him
in his buggy to Dr. Duff, who has lodged him for the
present with the old Jewish convert and his two daugh-
ters, of whom you read in the "Free Church Missionary
Record" last year. After disposing of Abraham and
talking to Jacob we drove to Mrs. Wylie, who called
upon me the other day, a very sweet young woman, wife of
the excellent young barrister whose name you see often
mentioned as most active in recovering young converts
who have been carried off by their parents or friends,
and who is an elder of the Free Kirk. She took us,
with Mrs. Hawkins (wife of one of the judges, and who
is both interesting and decidedly pious), to see the school
for Jewish and Armenian girls under the care of Mrs.
Ewart, the wife of one of our missionaries. Mrs. Ewart
had been longing and praying to be made useful to the
native women, when an excellent Armenian Protestant
Missionary, Mr. Aratoon, came and asked her to open
a school for his countrywomen. She agreed on con-
dition of his finding a place. He took a very nice room
in a native house; she went there but no pupils came.
For three days she and the aged missionary met and
united in prayer; on the fourth two little girls appeared,
and she has now about seventy, not quite half of whom
are Jewesses.
Mrs. Ewart seems far from strong. The elder class
read very nicely a chapter in the New Testament, with
JEWISH AND ARMENIAN SCHOOLS.
41
a perfectly pure English accent. They learn geography,
write, and work very neatly, and have a good acquaint-
ance with the main doctrines of Scripture. The pro-
gress they have made during the short time the school
has existed is quite wonderful. The Jewish parents
make no objection to their daughters reading the New
Testament. My husband spoke to them on disobedi-
ence to the law of God constituting the very essence of
sin, and on the willingness of Christ "the Messiah "
"the true God"-to save all who come to him; but
they are very shy, and it is difficult to get them to
answer. They are taught entirely in English.
One or two of the Armenian girls are lovely, with
beautifully chiselled features, and a clear brunette com-
plexion, so fine and delicate, that no fair one could
be prettier. They look much older than they are;
those of eleven look like fifteen. Most of the Jewesses
were very plain, with very coarse features, and some
with a moustache; many of them gaudily dressed
with silver lace on their robes, and beads round their
necks.
The Armenians, who intermarry frequently with the
Portuguese, who are as dark, if not darker than the
Hindus, dress like Europeans, only with a profusion of
flowers and trimmings. The Jewesses wear a tight
fitting robe, fastened beneath the bosom; and one little
girl had a train to hers.
Mrs. Ewart gave me a sampler "to send to my
sister." It is worked by a very good little Jewess,
named Jamilah Musa Bakahia, about ten or eleven years
old. Her parents wished to take her away to marry
her, and had even bespoken her wedding garment; but
she is so fond of the school, that she prevailed on them
to allow her to stay another year.
The pupils sang a hymn, and we then went to the
lower room, where there is a class of about forty in-
fants; such a variegated bank of babes would astonish
any English teacher, for the little bodies were arrayed
in all the colours of the rainbow. One small thing
of two years old had a turban, and several had patches
42
MISS LAING'S SCHOOL.
of opium to the size of sixpence, on the forehead and
temples, as a cure for colds. Two half-cast teachers
assist Mrs. Ewart, both of them very pleasing. The
little children answered many questions similar to those
in "Watts's First Catechism," extremely well, and then
sang the “Infant School Hymn," which, doubtless, you
know "We wash our faces, we comb our hair." I
never saw a prettier sight.
When we thanked Mrs. Ewart for her kindness, she
expressed herself in the most grateful terms for our
visit. She said it was such an encouragement to her,
for hardly any one visits or knows anything about this
most interesting school, although it is one with great
prospects of usefulness, and, at the same time, with
many discouraging circumstances attached to it. The
girls do not stay long at the school, on account of
their early marriages; and the influence they are under
at home is often quite contrary to that which is exer-
cised over them during the hours of instruction. But
still we are sure that the good seed will bring forth
fruit; and that the word of the Lord will not return
unto Him void, but shall prosper in that whereto He
sends it. It would be a kindness to send any simple
English book (some of Albright and Wright's, or
Groom's, for instance) for the use of the school. I told
them you would take the sampler to the Pye Street
School, and show the little Jewesses there what their
sisters in Calcutta have done.
Thursday, December 17th, 1846. — According to
appointment, we drove to Dr. Duff's house this morn-
ing, and he accompanied us to the Female Orphan
School, in connection with the Free Church. At the
time of disruption, the orphans were all taken by the
Established Church, with the exception of a few of the
elder girls, who followed Miss Laing. The majority
of the present pupils have, therefore, only been under
her care since 1843. She has just moved into a new
house, with a nice garden, and accommodation for one
hundred pupils. As yet she has only thirty, besides one
day scholar (a country-born girl), and a little Bengali
seen.
MISS LAING'S SCHOOL.
43
child of three years old, who comes of her own free
will. Most of the orphans are of Portuguese origin:
they are all dressed according to the custom of their
respective nations. Miss Laing is a very lady-like,
attractive person, the daughter of a captain in the
army, and has devoted herself to this good work from
love to Him who said "Feed my lambs." The children
were all assembled in three classes, in a spacious apart-
ment on the ground floor, open on two sides to the
outer air. Their copy-books were laid out for inspec-
tion, and, like those at the Jewish school, were re-
markable for their neatness; there were no blots, no
letters left out, no carelessness, like some copy-books at
home. The first thing that attracted our attention
was the youngest class, under the charge of Mahendra's
widow Rose, the sweetest looking young Bengali I have
Her face is quite lovely, not only from feature,
but from the sweet, modest, pathetic expression. She
was dressed like all her country women, in a white sort
of sheet wrapped round her head and figure. Her little
girl, a beautiful child of about two years old, clung to
her. You will understand the interest with which we
looked on Mahendra's wife and child. I took her hand;
but, like all the native women, she is too shy to speak
before strangers. She was brought up at Mrs. Wilson's
school, and is the bosom friend of her fellow-pupil Anna,
whom Koilas married. They were wedded on the same
day, and became widows within six weeks of each other.
Rose is well educated, her husband having taken great
pains to instruct her; she is very useful in the school;
they have every reason to believe her a converted per-
son. Dr. Duff pointed out one little girl in the class
whose parents were slain by dacoits (robbers), and who
was found on the road, where the jackals had already
begun to eat her. She looked up in my face with such
a pretty smile, and such beautiful, merry, black eyes,
it was impossible not to pet her. The eldest class then
read the 2nd of John. Dr. Duff questioned them upon
it, and cross questioned them most strictly. They
answered perfectly. He examined them on many
44
MISS LAING'S SCHOOL.
different parts of Scripture, with all of which they were
well acquainted. He explained to them the nature of
the union between the Lord Jesus and His people, and
illustrated it by the fate of a branch broken off from a
tree. He said, "What would become of a branch
broken off? What is that like? When they fully
understood this illustration, he asked for some text
wherein our Lord was spoken of as a vine. They
immediately quoted, "I am the vine, ye are the
branches." He then illustrated it by the dependence
of an infant on its mother for food and support; and
questioned them again on what he had said; asked
them what our Lord said of children coming to him.
They quoted, "Suffer little children," and "He took
them up and blessed them." After this examination
they sang "Glory, Glory," and then the 58th Para-
phrase. Dr. Duff then examined them on Geography,
in which they answered very satisfactorily.
Miss Laing showed us the house; it is very clean
and simple; everything is done by the girls, who learn
to wash, cook, and all kinds of household work. They
have no communication with any native servants; and
only one bearer is kept to clean the walls and the lights.
The children are brought up exactly like natives, and
sleep on bare wooden bedsteads, with no mattrass or
pillow. The very little ones have a small pillow; in the
cold season each has a blanket, and in the hot weather
a sheet, to wrap herself in; they live on curry and rice
twice a day. The only thing that can be done for them,
as they grow up, is to marry them to Christians, as it is
impossible to send them to service in any family, on´
account of the heathen servants they would be obliged
to mingle with. Some have been baptized in infancy;
of course, none of the others are until they give evi-
dence of conversion. One girl has been lately received
into the Church of Christ-I had remarked her extreme
interest when Dr. Duff was speaking.
Miss Laing conducts morning and evening worship
daily, and one of the missionaries preaches to them on
the Sabbath; they are taught Bengali and English
DUMDUM.
45
Miss Laing told
simultaneously, as at the College.
me that the average expense of each child, exclusive
of house-rent (which is very high in Calcutta) and of
the teachers' salaries, is three rupees, or six shillings a
month! How many could subscribe this sum, and
thus rescue an orphan from wild beasts, or from men
who are even worse! A little girl died about a fort-
night ago with all the confidence, joy, and faith of an
experienced saint! She longed to depart, and be with
Jesus, and spoke to all her companions with the
greatest earnestness, exhorting them to flee to Christ
for salvation.
Miss Laing says it is quite useless to send fancy
articles for sale here; they hardly pay for their car-
riage. The only things that sell well, are good baby
and children's clothes, such as rich people would buy.
Calico prints are very useful for clothing the Orphans,
or any old clothes, of a simple kind, that could be
adapted to their use. If any are sent ready made,
they should be fashioned like night-gowns, with a band
round the waist. We are to have a little Orphan of,
our own at the school; and I am going to write to
our children to propose that they should have one
between them; they will easily be able to give six-
pence a month each, and the remainder they can
collect.
On Tuesday, December 18th, we went to Dumdum
to breakfast and spend the day with Mr. and Mrs. S.
They are a very consistent young Christian couple,
and have a sweet baby three months old. They took
us to call on some excellent people, Dr. and Mrs.
Clarke; the latter draws beautifully-we saw some
of her views near Simla. Dr. Clarke is in medical
charge of the Amírs of Sind, several of whom are
here; he spoke of them with great interest. One of
them (whom we afterwards saw driving about in an
English undress uniform), Prince Muhammad Ali
Khan, is very clever-speaks and reads English, and
will even read the Bible. He broke his leg some time
ago, a very bad compound fracture; and, in the course
4.6
NATIVE CATECHISTS.
of attendance on him, Dr. Clarke expressed a hope
that he sometimes prayed. "How can I pray ?" said
he; "my leg is broken." Dr. Clarke explained to
him the nature of prayer, which he seemed fully to
comprehend. He never joins the others in the Mu-
hammadan forms; but this appears to be from disbelief
in Islam, rather than from belief in anything else.
We dined early, and then went to see the gun-practice.
I heard the whiz of the cannon-balls distinctly as they
passed us. Saw some of the Amírs driving out. The
drive to Dumdum is very pretty; there are native huts
almost the whole way, except where the fine villas and
grounds of the rich Bábus of Calcutta intervene, with
gardens and railings, apparently very much in the
English style.
Saturday, December 19th.-C. and I took tea with
Dr. and Mrs. Duff, to meet the four native Cate-
chists;-one is a Brahmin, named Jagadishwar Bhatta-
charjya; another a Kúlin Brahman (which is the very
highest caste), named Prásuná Kumár Chatterjia; Lal
Behárí Dé (pronounced Day), of the Banker caste;
Behárí Lal Sing, the Rajput, was ill, and could not
come. They are all young men, remarkably quiet
and gentlemanly in manner, with most intelligent
countenances. It was on the 2nd November, 1841,
that Jagadishwar first opened his heart to the Mis-
sionaries, and expressed his desire for baptism. This
was the very day that the insurrection at Kabul broke
out; and, strange to say, owing to a very remarkable
conjunction of the planets which took place at that
time, the conviction was universal among the natives
that some great calamity was impending over the
British Empire, so much so that business was almost
suspended, and the people wandered about doing
nothing. When they heard, therefore, that a Brahmin
was about to be baptized, they looked upon this as the
immediate beginning of the calamity, and on the fol-
lowing morning the Institution was besieged by thou-
sands. Dr. Duff had to throw himself into the midst
of the crowd to rescue Jagadishwar from the friends
NATIVE CATECHISTS.
47
who were dragging him away. He said, "I looked
as fierce as Captain Mackenzie was doing at that very
time, and told them they should only have him by
passing over my body." The lad was rescued, but
the clamour continuing, Dr. Duff went to fetch the
police. The mob suffered him to depart; and, to
prove he was not carrying the young convert away
with him, he ordered the carriage to be driven all
round the court, that they might see that he was alone.
When the police came, the immediate danger of the
house being forced ceased; and the Missionaries being
perfectly satisfied with the state of the young man's
mind, from the long conversation they had had with
him the previous night, came to the conclusion that it
was advisable to baptize him immediately; this was
accordingly done, in the hall of the Institution, in the
presence of all the pupils.
(C
Immediately the natives heard that he had cast
away the Brahminical cord and received baptism,
they looked upon it as un fait accompli,”—an irre-
vocable act, and quietly dispersed.
He is a very
handsome young man, rather like Mr. G. of K., with
very small delicate hands, aquiline nose, and magni-
ficent eyes, as they all have. The Kúlín Brahmin
has not such regular features; his nose is a little
retroussé, but he has a very sweet expression, and a
remarkably well-formed head. One of his preroga-
tives, as a Kúlín Brahman, was that of marrying as
many wives as he chose; and many Kúlíns make a
livelihood by going about the country to marry the
daughters of any Brahman who will give a large sum
for the honour of allying his family with the illustrious
race of the Kúlín Brahmans; he then leaves the
said wife in her father's house, and perhaps never sees
her again. Fortunately Prasúná had only married one
wife, and, following the Divine directions, he felt he
had no right to cast her off, if she were willing to
come to him. This he had reason to believe was the
case, although since the day of his open profession of
Christianity he had neither scen nor heard of her. He
48
STORY OF THE ABSENT CATECHIST.
however kept up amicable intercourse with his sister,
who lived some distance from Calcutta. At the time
of a great festival, his two friends, Jagadishwar and
Lal Bchári Dé, advised him to go and pay a visit to
his sister, in hopes of hearing something of his wife;
he thought it of no use, but went. At first his sister
was out he spent the time in reading the Bible, and
praying that, if it was God's will, a way for the
recovery of his wife might be opened to him. He
returned to his sister's house, and found his young
wife there;-this was the first interview since his con-
version. He found she was willing to go with him to
the ends of the carth; so, directing her to return
home, as if nothing had happened, he went to the
river side and engaged a boat. She met him in the
evening; they entered the boat, and arrived safely in
Calcutta. He then began to teach her, and she
proved a most docile and intelligent scholar. She was
soon baptized, and they have now an infant, whom Dr.
Duff had the pleasure of baptizing a few weeks ago.
I asked Prasúna if his wife was very young; he said,
“Not very-about sixteen or seventeen." It is looked
upon as a calamity, in a Hindoo family, if a woman
receives any kind of instruction; notwithstanding this,
some of the educated Hindoos have begun to teach
their wives. Dr. Duff said it had often been a matter
of serious consideration among the Missionaries, what
should be done in case of the conversion of one who
had already married several wives, because, all these
marriages being legal, how could they be broken?
One thing is clear, that such a person could not be
admitted into any office of the Christian ministry, as
both a Bishop and Deacon is required to be "the
husband of one wife.”
The story of the absent Catechist, Behári Sing, was
very interesting. About twenty years ago, an old
Rajput, the highest caste next to the Brahmans, came
down to Calcutta. He had two sons, whom he sub-
sequently placed in the Scotch College, where they
both became convinced of the truth of Christianity,
STORY OF THE ABSENT CATECHIST.
49
without being brought to feel their personal need of it.
When the elder one, Behári Sing, was asked by Dr.
Duff why he did not become a Christian, he answered,
"I believe everything, but I feel nothing." They
both left the Institution; the younger made his way
up to Chunár, near Benares, where he fell in with
Mr. Bowley, a Church of England Missionary, who,
astonished with his acquaintance with Christianity,
determined to water the good seed which Dr. Duff had
planted. God gave the increase; the young man was
baptized (I am sorry to say by the name of Timothy,
instead of his own name), and then he began to urge
his brother by letter to follow his example. Behári
Sing was at this time a Government servant at
Jubbulpore, under Mr. Macleod, a pious civilian, who
had formerly maintained him at College; and whose
exhortations, joined to those of his brother, were soon
blessed by God. The first sign he gave of his sense
of the value of the Gospel, was by sending eighty
rupees—a whole month's salary-toward the support
of the Institution. Soon after, he came down to
Calcutta to receive baptism. On his road, he met, at
a small station (where good Mrs. Wilson then resided),
some English High Church gentlemen, who, on learning
his intentions, plied him with arguments in favour of
Apostolic Succession, Episcopacy, the efficacy of the
Sacraments, and told him that such baptism as Dr.
Duff could administer was no baptism at all. He
listened patiently, and then solemnly asked: "To a
soul trembling in the presence of a holy and just God,
and longing for salvation, what is there in all you say
to meet his case?" They had nothing to reply.
After his baptism, he gave up his salary of eighty
rupees monthly, and his prospects of advancement, for
the pittance of eight rupees per month and the privi-
lege of working in the Lord's vineyard; and, to crown
the whole, the stern old soldier-of whom Behári had
said, "If I were to become a Christian, my father
would cut off my head"--followed his sons' example,
and also enlisted under the banners of the Captain of
VOL. I.
D
50
our salvation.
glorify God?
A DANCE OF MARIONETTES.
Does not this call on us to bless and
I cannot tell you how our hearts warmed to these
converts; I felt the very sight of them as much a means
of grace as any sermon could be, stirring one up, to
thanksgiving and praise-the dazzling whiteness of
their native dress reminded one of the costume of the
early Catechumens.
Dr. Duff told us of a young Socinian, who had been
brought up as such from his infancy, who came to him
wishing to partake of the communion. Dr. Duff had
much difficulty in making him understand that the
Lord's Supper was a sign of communion in faith, and
therefore could not be administered to any but those
who appeared to be members of Christ. He could not
see this, but said he wished to receive the sacrament,
for he wanted comfort; he had no comfort in religion.
Dr. Duff had many conversations with him; he received
the truth very slowly, but gradually;-at last he became
very ill-was put on board a ship, and died (I think
before leaving the river) full of faith and hope.
Wednesday, December 23rd, 1846.-We went to
Miss M's. wedding. She looked very well. The old
cathedral is a very plain building; but I looked at it
with interest, as the place where Heber and Henry
Martyn preached.
This being little Ewen's birthday, we had a kapútli
Nách, i. e. a dance of Marionettes in the dining-room.
It was a most picturesque scene; there was a band of
three or four musicians, who played on a kind of guitar,
drum, and other instruments, and sang discordantly.
The chief man showed some sleight-of-hand tricks, such
as making four or five pigeons come from under an
empty cover, and afterwards a little Marionette, danced
as a Nách girl; some Sepoys and other figures came
on, to the great delight of the children, of whom there
were many present. It was very pretty to see all these
little ones, quite specimens of "Mamma's darlings,"
with long hair, velvet dresses, ornamented pinafores,
cashmeres and velvet to wrap them up in. The Ayahs,
་
CARICATURE OF ENGLISH MANNERS.
51
in their white draperies, sitting with some on the floor;
a Chinese woman waiting on another; moustachoed
bearers attending on most of them, with divers little
native and half-caste children, and the servants in scarlet
and gold, glossy silk or white garments, and a crowd of,
tailors, gardeners, and hangers-on of all kinds, filling
up the background.
After tiffin, C. peeped in again, and found the
audacious Tamásha Wallah (literally play-fellow) had
dressed himself up as an officer, with a white mask, and
was (the ladies having departed) showing how a young
Ensign treats his bearer. I immediately went to see,
and never was more diverted. He did it admirably,
and shewed such a perception of European follies, as to
prove an effectual warning to all present not in any
way to commit themselves before these quiet, quick-
witted natives. He had laid hold of one of Julia's
bearers, and was making him walk backwards and for-
wards for his amusement, bestowing a kick every now
and then to quicken his movements. He then sent him
for a bottle of brandy, stamped and rampanged about,
and finally began to dance, exactly like an awkward
Englishman attempting a hornpipe. He forced his sup-
posed servant to dance, and looked at him through an
eye-glass. He then brought in one of his companions
dressed as a lady, dragged her about by way of taking
a walk, and then danced with her in imitation of a
quadrille and waltz. I cannot understand any one
venturing to waltz before a native, after seeing this apt
caricature of the performance! It was very droll, and
only too true.
I have since found that a Mullah, in controversy with
Mr. Pfander of Agra, alleges the custom of "kissing
and putting their arms round the waists of other men's
grown-up daughters, sisters, and wives," as an argument
against Christianity. The "kissing appears to have
been added by the imaginative Mullah, but I do not see
how a waltz or polka could possibly be defended in the
eyes of an Oriental. I hope Mr. Pfander explained to
him that Christianity does not (as he alleges) sanction
D 2
52
OUR SIRDAR BEARER.
these practices, for it teaches us to "abstain from all
appearance of evil."
We have been anxious about our Sirdár Bearer,
Bonamáli. He wished to go up the country with us,
but his mother was exceedingly opposed to it. The
other morning he came to us so ill that C. thought the
old woman must have mixed some witch potion (which
is generally a poison) with his food, to prevent his
accompanying us. He mentioned his suspicions to the
poor man, who said that it was very probable; he was
sick incessantly after eating, and looked so ill, and
pinched, and drawn in feature for two days, that I was
quite frightened. We gave him arsenicum, which re-
lieved him of the burning sensation, and he soon got
quite well. Jacob used to talk a great deal to him.
during their captivity in Afghanistan, on the subject of
religion, and he has begun again to do so. The man's
mind is apparently in some degree awakened to the
folly of Hinduism-he has thankfully accepted the
Scriptures in Bengali, and I also gave him a Christian
almanack, containing some of the first principles of
astronomy, which, of course, overthrow the Shasters.
He is very intelligent, and, like most of the Bengalis,
reads and writes fluently. The Hindus of Bengal are
remarkable as excellent accountants.
The other day C. was speaking to Bonamali on there
"being only one God,"―he assented; "only one Inter-
cessor, the Lord Jesus Christ," he assented again, in
a kind of general way; C. then said, "but you see the
people here all bowing down to images, worshipping
idols,' "-he rejoined with vigour, "It is one great lie,
it is the invention of Satan."
The servants here generally sleep at their own houses,
and go back for two hours in the day to bathe and eat;
they generally wear white, but Julia's servants have
scarlet dresses, by way of liveries, which look very
pretty. The houses here are all within courtyards
(called compounds) with gates. The Durwân, or gate-
keeper, here is a Brahmin of very high caste; part of
his business is to let no one carry anything out of the
GENERAL VON GAGERN.
53
compound without a warrant of some kind that he is
authorized to do so.
I drew a Bairághi, or Yoghì, i. e. a Hindu religious
mendicant, who sat himself down in the Durwân's shed,
so that I had an excellent view of him from one of the
windows. He was a fine tall young man, with mild
expression, his beard shaved, but his moustache and
hair long; his left arm he carried bolt upright, never
to come down again; I believe they devote the limb to
some god. It was rather shrunk in size, and the nails
came through the back of the hand; he was dressed in
a tiger-skin, with a cap of the same. He had a staff,
and a small linen bag slung over his right shoulder, I
suppose for provisions. I saw him reading a book which
one of the servants lent him.
Thursday, 24th.-C. accompanied Mr. Cameron,
General von Gagern, of the Dutch service, and his
Aides-de-Camp, to the Medical College. C. came back
quite sad. Among other sights, was a poor little Brah-
miní girl, about ten years old, dying of mortification in
the leg; it was too far advanced for amputation to save
her, and he said that the expression of agony in her
face, when the visitors approached her bed, was painful
to witness-the young Aide-de-Camp was quite over-
come. General von Gagern is from Nassau, and has
offered to go and see our children on his return. It is
a curious fact, that the first class of Students at the
Medical College, i. e. those who go through a course of
study sufficient to qualify them for Assistant-Surgcons,
are almost exclusively Hindus; the second class, or
those who, without learning anatomy, are qualified for
hospital dressers, dispensers of medicine, &c., are
almost exclusively Muhammadans, and the sons of
Sepoys.
The character and prejudices of the Muhammadans
are stronger than the Hindu, although the religion of
the latter is much the most opposed to surgery. The
Mussulmán holds the prejudices he has learnt from the
Hindu much more strongly than he from whom he has
acquired them. There are hardly two Mussulmáns at
54
CHURCH OF ENGLAND.
the Free Church College, and converts from among
them are almost unknown.*
Saturday, December 26th.-C. was not very well, so
I was obliged to go to tea at Mrs. Wylie's by myself:
I found nine of the converts there, which made me
regret more than ever C.'s absence, for they are very
shy and modest, and will not speak unless spoken to.
It was, however, a great pleasure to see them.
Mrs. Wylie has a darling little boy of two years and
a half old, one of the sweetest children I ever saw, who
came and laid his head on my bosom, and called me
"mamma." Mr. and Mrs. Wylie were both members
of the Church of England, but have left it to join the
Free Church. He told me that some time ago a small
prayer meeting of members of the Church of England
was held here, all of whom, except one, are now mem-
bers of the Free Church. He said it was interesting
to see the “footsteps of the flock," all tending in the
same direction. Mrs. Wylie has just had a letter from
a lady in England, an Episcopalian of great piety, who
says that during a late season of ill-health she had been
much troubled with scruples about the Church of Eng
land, and requested Mrs. Wylie to send her an account
of her reasons for joining the Church of Scotland: this
lady has had no communication with any one else on
the subject. Mr. Wylie said that he knew many Eng-
lish clergymen who had scruples about the baptismal
service, the want of discipline, the ordination service,
and other defects of the English Church,-but none
who carried out these scruples to their legitimate con-
sequences; and that he had remarked that those who
acted thus, and stifled the murmurings of conscience
against these things, often became backsliders in the
Christian path. For instance, an excellent clergyman
(by name, I think, Steel) was offered a living; he
questioned himself seriously as to whether he could
ex-animo subscribe to the Prayer Book, and found that
* There are now several (among them a learned Haqím or Doctor),
chiefly through the instrumentality of the catechist, Behári Lal Sing
(1852).
THE MUHARRAM.
55
he could not; he therefore refused the living, came out
to India, and, for the last fifteen or sixteen years, has
devoted his private fortune, which is considerable, to
the support of Missionaries. This good man told Mr.
Wylie that before leaving England he had conversed
with Mr. Sibthorp on the subject, and found that he
agreed with him on all points except the practical result,
i. e. that he was bound to leave the church to which he
belonged. Mr. Sibthorp excused himself on the plea
that by his preaching he could do much good. Behold
what followed! Mr. Wylie made two other observa-
tions which struck me much. One is that in every
clerical secession from the Church of England, almost
all the seceders have fallen into grievous error, at any
rate for a time; this was the case with the Baring seces-
sion, and with some others which he named, and arises
probably from the very defective theological education
which is given in England. Another was, that Church
of England Christians have but little feeling for the
public weal of the Church,—they are content to go on
doing as much good as they can in their own little orbit,
but never do anything for reforming the Church. I
think this want of public spirit in the Christian com-
monwealth is owing to the same cause as want of public
spirit under despotic monarchies; an Englishman has
no more share, and consequently no more interest, in
promoting the well-being of his Church, than a Russian
has in promoting the well-being of his country, whereas
a Scotchman takes a lively interest in both, because he
is accustomed to take an active part in the affairs of the
spiritual as well as the temporal community. I had
the pleasure of shaking hands with all the converts
when they took leave.
Sunday, December 27th.-Heard a little of Mr.
M'Kail's discourse-he is just come out as minister of
the Free Church here.
Monday, December 28th.-Being very anxious to
see something of the Muharram (the Muhammadan
festival in remembrance of Hasan and Hoseyn, the
two sons of Ali), I borrowed Julia's chariot, and started
1
56
THE BAZAR.
about three o'clock alone, taking Jacob on the box to
interpret for me. C. was too busy with preparations
for our dâk journey to come with me, but you will see
what exploits I perform when I take a frisk by myself.
I often wish for you, my darling L. and E. when there
is a huge vacant place in the carriage, but especially
when I go upon any expedition. I took my sketch-
book with me, and we had not gone far before we fell
in with divers nondescript looking camels of wood with
human faces and turbans, their bodies painted orange;
they represent the camels on which Hoseyn fled-but
it was only by the force of genius and erudition united
that I found out they were meant for camels at all.
Dr. Welsh took them for ostriches! By-the-by the
Persians call the ostrich "shutr-murgh or camel-fowl."
There were also divers little towers about eight feet
high, very prettily adorned and painted, in each of
which a silver hand is placed. It represents the hand
of Hasan, which was cut off when he was slain. I
stopped to draw one of these, and then a camel stopped
to be drawn-I will send you these "pleasing images."
A few annas made the bearer of the said monster quite
happy-in fact the natives seem to take special delight
in being drawn, and as soon as they perceive that you
are sketching, keep quite still till you have done.
We drove slowly through the Bazár, which is nothing
more nor less than streets full of shops, Bazár meaning
simply market or High-street. These streets are ex-
tremely picturesque, the houses being generally of one
story, very low, with far-projecting pent house-sheds
along the whole front which is open to the street. I
never saw so populous a neighbourhood as this-every
little shop has half a dozen persons in it. I drew two
shops-in front of one was a boy winding thread by
holding the skein over his knees. Thus, after many
stoppages, I reached good Dr. Duff's house, paid them
a short visit, and saw their daughter, who is just arrived
from Scotland, a nice frank girl of sixteen. I then
drove on to Miss Laing's, which is near-found her
walking in the verandah after the labours of the day,
KRISHNA MOHAN BANERJEA.
57
and sat there with her. I told her of the great benefit
we had derived from homœopathy, and found her quite
ready to adopt a system that has already benefited her
so much. I saw two of the younger children, a little
merry Jewess called Tobah (Mercy), and another child
about three years old, whom Miss Laing took on learn-
ing that her father, a civilian in high station, was about
to allow her to be taken away and brought up by the
mother, a Múhammadan.
On our way home we stopped to see numerous towers,
and also to buy sweetmeats in the Bazár-I send you
some sugar-plums I got there; they sell them in little
cups made of leaves; the natives generally eat off plan-
tain leaves, as they are thus secure from the danger of
eating off a plate which has been used by a man of
lower caste. I was very much amused with my expe-
dition, and the servants seemed delighted to have a lady
who was so curious, for they looked at each particular
tower with as much interest as if they had never seen
one before, and came to tell me the expense of cach.
One cost eight, another twelve rupees, and the groups
of white robed Muhammadans anxiously watching the
completion of the towers were very picturesque.
Krishna Mohan Banerjéa and his wife dined here in
the evening. She, sad to say, was in the European
dress, which is always unbecoming to a native. He
wore a handsome shawl, and the usual native dress,
with the addition of trousers and boots. The lower part
of his face is very like that of Napoleon. He is a man
of great talent and energy, but I was not so much
pleased with him and his wife as with the converts I
had previously seen. There was nothing like the same
simplicity. Mrs. Banerjéa, as she calls herself on her
visiting cards, imitates the European lady, and by
adopting the European dress and customs, she is as
much cut off from all influence over her countrywomen
as if she were the wife of any other Pádre Sáhib-very
different from the position taken up by Rose. I do not
know if she has any schools. 1 did not know that
Krishna was a convert of Dr. Duff's, and baptized by
D 3
58
ALIPUR.
him, though not educated in the Assembly's Institution,
but during Dr. Duff's absence was prevailed on to join
the Church of England, of which he is now a clergyman,
with a church and parsonage of his own. At one time
he superintended Sil's College, founded by a rich Hindu.
He is now publishing, under the auspices of Mr.
Cameron and the Council of Education, an "Encyclo-
pedia Bengalensis," consisting of articles original and
selected, in English and Bengali. The third volume,
which I am to take up to Lord Hardinge, contains
Arnold's Account of the Second Punic War, Aphorisms
from Plutarch, and other tales and bits of information.
Mr. Cameron says it has done a good deal in awakening
the native mind.
Krishna spoke slightingly of the conversions of Krish-
naghar, but at the same time very cautiously. He attri-
buted the exaggerated accounts to the necessity of
creating a sensation at home at public meetings. C.
having mentioned the state of the German Churches,
Krishna remarked that "it only showed the necessity
of Episcopacy." He did this with such an evident
conviction of the perfect agreement of his hearers in
the proposition he enunciated, that it was with difficulty
I could preserve a decent gravity of expression, espe-
cially as C., who was ignorant of his history, imme-
diately opened his batteries upon him, and spake warmly
anent the Free Kirk, ending by promising him a copy
of Baptist Noel's "Case of the Church of Scotland."
Krishna was very cautious, and seemed to think "least
said soonest mended."
Tuesday, December 29th.-Crowds of people sur-
rounded the tank opposite our house the whole morning,
throwing the figures of camels into it, this being the
last day of the Muharram.
Thursday, December 31st.-I drove to Alipúr to call
on two ladies; the road is very pretty, and the houses
the most agreeable I have seen, quite in the country,
and very handsome. C. went to hear the Preparation
Sermon at Union Chapel.
New Year's-day, 1847.-We had been (as every one
THE NEW YEAR.
59
else was) invited to a ball at Government House, and,
after divers cogitations, agreed that it was best not to
go, but not to say anything about it, as good reasons
are lost upon some people.
At midnight, we heard the salute announcing the
New Year, and prayed for a blessing on each other, and
on those dear to us. The next morning breakfasted
early, and drove to Union Chapel (taking Jacob with
us), where every New Year's-day there is a truly
catholic Communion, in which all the Missionaries, of
every denomination (except the Church of England),
and any other Christians who wish to do so, join in
celebrating their Redeemer's Feast. We were in the
front row, close to the communion-table. Mr. Mac
Donald of the Free Church was just finishing the
prayer; Mr. Lacroix, a Swiss Presbyterian, of the
London Missionary Society, then preached a very ani-
mated, simple, but most touching sermon, on "Heaven
and earth shall pass away, but my words shall not pass
away." He spoke of the certainty of God's promises,
the sureness of salvation contrasted with the transi-
toriness of all things earthly, and ended by saying, "A
few more years may see a congregation met within these
walls for the same purpose that we are; but another
minister will occupy the pulpit, and of all now present
every one will have passed away to the Judgment Seat
of God,”—and then prayed that it might be only to
enter into the inner Sanctuary, to dwell with the Lamb
for ever and ever. A young minister of the Scotch
Establishment, Mr. Henderson, prayed with great fer-
vour, so did a venerable American Baptist Missionary ;
Mr. Boaz, the minister of the Chapel (an Independent),
made a most touching address before the delivery of the
bread, and another before that of the wine, on "This
do in remembrance of me." The first was on remem-
bering what Christ has done for us; the second, on
remembering what we are bound to do for him. Mr.
Ewart, of the Free Kirk, was one of those who distri-
buted the Elements. We all sat still in our places, and
the bread, cut in little pieces, was handed round.
60
MISSIONARY SCHOOLS.
After the service, we sang the hymn, "Once again
before we part." Mr. Boaz afterwards shook hands
with both of us, and gave us back the communion cards
to keep in remembrance of the day. I cannot tell you
how affecting a service it was.
We drove to the Wylies-a most fit house to visit
after such a service. We found Mr. Hawkins, the
excellent Christian Judge, there, and also a young
man belonging to the Exchange (a kind of large
shop), who was treated with as much kindness and
respect as the man in high office beside him. This
is one feature which distinguishes the Christians in
Calcutta, that their houses and society are open to
all who appear to be truly Christian people, although
their station in life may be a humble one. Mrs. W.'s
darling little boy came and tried to pull off my gloves,
to show he wished me to stay. He is one of the
sweetest children I ever saw, and as independent of
servants as any child born at home. Mrs. Wylie told
me that Mr. Lacroix has been here for the last twenty
years, and is the most acceptable Missionary of any to
the natives. Not long since he went to Europe for
two or three years, and was very useful in stirring up
an interest in missions in England, Scotland, France,
and Switzerland. He brought several young men
from Geneva with him, one of whom has married his
eldest daughter. They are settled at a village near
Alipúr, where the young Missionary's wife is most
useful. She has a school under her care for native
girls, and speaking Bengali like a native gives her great
opportunities of doing good. They say it is beautiful
to hear her pray with her pupils.
Mrs. Wylie was most intimate with Mrs. Wilson,
and gave me the same account as every one else has
done, of the sad state of decay into which her school
has fallen. Mrs. Wilson was admirably qualified as an
instructress: her dignity of manner and her gentleness
were invaluable gifts. All the villagers of the place
(about nine miles from Calcutta) looked to the Mem
Sahib for advice, help, medicine, assistance of every
MISSIONARY SCHOOLS.
61
kind. Her school included about 200 girls, and pros-
pered in every way. She gave them such an education
as charity children receive in England, comprising
reading, writing, work, and a thorough knowledge of
Scripture. Their mode of life was such as is common
to the poorest. In the midst of her usefulness she left
the Church of England and joined the Plymouth
brethren. Other teachers have since been appointed
in her room, but they have been wholly inefficient,
and the number of pupils has dwindled down to thir-
teen. Some have run away, many have married the
so-called converts of Krishnaghar, men who had been
baptized simply on expressing a wish to be so, and
whose Christianity consists in nothing but a renun-
ciation of idolatry, so that their poor young wives
have walked miles to see Mrs. Wilson and to tell her,
with bitter weeping, that their husbands were hardly
Christians even in profession. One did not even know
who Jesus was! I would by no means have you think that
all the Krishnaghar converts were of this sort, but too
many of them were so. Such is the bad management
of the school, that even the docile Bengáli girls have
become wholly insubordinate. Mrs. Wylie gave me
an interesting account of a visit which Mrs. Wilson
paid in their company to the scene of her former
labours. They went in a boat and arrived at a time
when the little girls were bathing. No sooner did they
recognize Mrs. Wilson than they rushed into the water
as far as they could to meet her, and when she landed
they hung about her with the most touching marks of
affection. On arriving at the school, Mrs. Wilson
seated herself in the midst of them, and began to tell
them how grieved she was at the accounts she had
heard of their behaviour. One little head after another
sunk within the folds of their chaddahs (veils), and
soon there was not a dry eye among them.
Mrs. Wylie told us of a remarkable conversion which
took place here. A young man, of the name of Hay,
was extremely wild, and wholly ignorant of religion. A
horse of his having won a race, he was known by the
62
REMARKABLE CONVERSIONS.
name of "Telegraph Hay." He was the son of Cap-
tain Hay, who lost his leg in command of one of the East
India Company's China ships, when they beat off the
French fleet. In a wrestling match with a man who
owed him ill-will, the latter injured him so much that
he never recovered from it. While ill, he took up a
book called "Letters from a Father to his Son." This
made him think seriously; but he spoke to no one of
the state of his mind. He was obliged to go to Europe
for his health, and meditated deeply on these things:
but without knowing what he wanted, or having any
clear views on the subject, until the first sermon he
heard from Mr. Close seemed like a flash of lightning
to illuminate his mind. It showed him at once what
he needed, and the remedy for his need; and he be-
came a new creature in Christ Jesus. He returned to
India, and so bold and open was he in proclaiming the
truth, that his old acquaintances thought him mad.
His health gradually declined, but his faith increased.
He became too weak to move, and was told that from
henceforth he must keep to his room. The last
note he wrote Mr. Wylie was just before he was
taken there for the last time, telling him, with a
kind of joyful indifference, that he was "just going
up-stairs to die." He lingered about three weeks
more, and then fell asleep in Jesus, full of joy, hope,
and love.
I must not forget to tell you, that one of the young
converts I met at the Wylies' (a Brahman), owed his
conversion to the death of a fellow-scholar, who was
brought out to the Ghát (as the custom is) to breath
his last. He called his companions to him, and said,
"Do not do as I have done: I have believed in Christ,
but have been ashamed to confess Him before men."
This dying admonition was blessed to the young
hearer and may we not hope that the dying con-
fession of the weak believer was a sign that he too
was one of the fold of Christ? We took leave of these
dear friends, for such we felt them to be.
:
Saturday, January 2nd, 1847.-We all went to Sir
HOUSES IN CALCUTTA-HACKNEY-COACHES.
63
Lawrence Peel's breakfast. Lunched in the garden;
about 300 people there; left about six. The gardens
are very pretty, and abound in a beautiful shrub, which
is common enough here,
enough here, called Poinsettia. The
leaves are large and long, not unlike those of the
chestnut, but of a brilliant crimson. Two of Tippù
Sahib's great-grandsons were there, ugly, mean look-
ing men, with bad expression.
The houses in Calcutta are remarkably fine, with
flat roofs. Almost every bed-room has a bath-room
attached, which is paved, and rows of chattis (earthen
pitchers), full of water, are placed there for pouring
over oneself. The natives seem to be incessantly
bathing. Little conduits run along most of the large
streets, and there they are pouring water over them-
selves from morning till night; but they do it very
decently, never wholly unclothed. None but women
of low caste are ever seen in the streets : some of them
wear rings in their noses. The native hackney
coaches are very droll. There is generally a servant
gravely seated, cross-legged, on the top. The bearers
who are all Hindus, and who, in a family, perform
most of the functions of housemaids, such as making
the beds, dusting the furniture, &c., generally wear
their hair long, and turned up à la Chinoise, with a
knot behind. The common bearers have their heads
bare; but those in service wear a white turban with
their queer little knot projecting beneath it. I believe
bearers are employed in ladies' apartments and bed-
rooms only in Calcutta: I have never heard of its
being done elsewhere. All over India
All over India many ladies are
guilty of great carelessness in dress, to call it by no
worse name, appearing before their servants and
strangers in flannel dressing-gowns, and even less
decorous garments. But nowhere are these evil
practices carried to such a disgraceful extent as in
Calcutta. There, ladies will give audience to half-a-
dozen men-servants in their sleeping-apartments, the
moment they have risen. And I have even known an
instance of a young and handsome woman dressing
64
ADMINISTRATION OF THE COMMUNION.
and undressing in the presence of the tailors, with as
little scruple as if they had been old women.
Sunday, January 3rd.-We went to the Free Church,
where the Communion was administered. Mr. Mac
Donald's sermon I could not hear, although seats had
been most kindly kept for us close to the top of the
table. I heard, however, Mr. MacDonald's excellent
address on "Occupy till I come."
He said we were
to occupy the station in which God placed us, what-
ever it might be, but to occupy it for Him. Neither
the attainment of riches nor of promotion were to be
our objects. God would provide as much of these
things as was good for us. Our object must be to
glorify Him in all things. It was a very profitable
address; and the simple and scriptural manner of
breaking the bread, and dividing it among ourselves,
and passing the cup from one to the other, pleased me
more than ever. Jacob, the native converts, and at
least two native Christian women, joined in this holy
ordinance.
C. then left me at Miss Laing's, as I was anxious to
spend the rest of the day with her. I had much de-
lightful conversation with her. We dined at about
three o'clock, and the two youngest children with us.
The orphans cook, as well as do everything else for
themselves; and the few servants Miss Laing is obliged
to have for herself are wholly separated from them.
She told me the children were remarkably docile,
punishment rarely necessary; the three little Jewesses
giving more trouble than all the rest put together-
wilfulness, perversity, and obstinacy being prominent
characteristics in them, though in many ways they are
very attractive children. She says the greatest difficulty
with the native children is from their habits of deceit.
I asked her about the kind of education she intended
to give them. She said, as high a one as they are
capable of. She teaches them everything they are able
to learn, and hopes that some of them will turn out
clever and highly educated women. Mr. Ewart came
about four o'clock, and delivered an exposition on a
MISS LAING AND HER SCHOOL.
65
chapter in Acts. This he or one of the other Mission-
aries does every Sabbath, as the girls have no other
means of hearing preaching, it being impossible for
them to walk through the streets to church.
One
I was quite touched by the manner in which Miss
Laing expressed her obligation for the interest I took
in the school; she said so few cared for it. When she
first came out, many people to whom she had letters of
introduction called on her; but, finding them mere
worldly people, she refused their invitations.
lady speaking of her said, "Poor thing, I wish very
much to be kind to her, but I am afraid she might
bow to me on the course." Another entreated her to
come and live with her, saying, she could not bear
her to live in such a mean way. Lady Colquhoun of
Rossie behaved like a mother to her before she left
Scotland.
Miss Laing said she had anticipated many trials, but
had never thought of that of having to attend the death-
beds, and make the arrangements for the funerals of
the children under her care. In five years she has lost
three. One, an infant, who could just repeat a little
hymn, and say a little prayer; the other gave good
hopes of her salvation; but the most touching yet com-
fortable death of all, was that of Charlotte Green, the
little girl Dr. Duff told us of about a month ago. Miss
Laing at first declined taking her, but on examining her
own reasons, feared that she had done so mainly because
the child was very unprepossessing. She therefore went
down stairs, and finding the old woman who had brought
her still waiting, she took the poor little thing, who was
then about five years old. From the day she was
admitted she was a truthful, quiet, intelligent child,
who learned with great facility, but was by no means
"demonstrative." She had an attack of dysentery, and
when recovering, insisted on being always present at
family worship, though too weak to stand. After her
recovery, Miss Laing one day said to her, as she was
passing through the room, "Charlotte! do you know
that you are a sinner?" She stopped, burst into tears,
66
DEATH OF A NATIVE CHILD.
and answered, "Oh yes, I am a great sinner. I pray
to Jesus to take away my sins." Miss Laing thought
this might only be the repetition of an idea which she
had been taught, but she was astonished at the emotion
so unusual in a native. Some time after, she one day
left her class, and two or three of her companions soon
came to Miss Laing, saying, "Ma'am, will you go to
Charlotte-she says she is going to Jesus." Miss Laing
found her on her bed: she seized the hand of her kind
instructress, and said, "Oh, I love you so much, for you
have led me to Jesus!" From that time she sank
rapidly from a return of her former complaint: all her
expressions were full of hope and joy; no person entered
the room without her urging them in the most solemn
manner to seek salvation in Christ. Miss Laing never
left her, but repeated and read the numberless passages
of Scripture she asked for, until, without a sigh, her
happy spirit fled away to be for ever with the Lord.
Dr. Duff has written an account of this glorious death-
bed from Miss Laing's notes.
Just afterwards, Miss Laing was seized with violent
erysipelas in the head, so that for nine days she could
never lie down, the pain was so intense. During this
severe suffering she felt, as it were, upborne by a
strength not her own, so that she wondered at the
peace she enjoyed. Her own expression was, that she
felt like a creature with wings. While walking up and
down in the night, she often overheard some of the
elder girls praying for her. At length she was enabled
to lie down, and resting on her forehead she fell asleep ;
she was awoke by a voice crying, "Oh, ma'am, here are
drunken men in the house!" The stupid Darwán
(gate-keeper) had been off his guard, and two Europeans
had marched into the house, and up to her very room,
but the servants soon put them out. She recovered,
although dreadfully reduced by the medical treatment.
She spoke of the impropriety of permitting bearers
to attend little girls in all respects like nurses, which
many ladies are guilty of. After tea the children
came in for family worship; they each read a verse by
BARANAGAR-A BRANCH SCHOOL.
67
turns in the first chapter of John, and I was greatly
pleased with Miss Laing's method of questioning them
on it-they answered admirably. They then repeated
texts, sang a hymn, and Miss Laing offered up an
earnest, simple prayer. We then took an affectionate
leave of each other.
January 4th.-Breakfasted with Dr. Duff; found a
young widow there on her way to England; she lost
her husband at Firozshahar, and has two small children;
she seemed truly a Christian, and our hearts ached
for her.
On
C. could not afford the time, but Dr. Duff offered to
take me with his daughter to Baranagar, where an
examination of the Branch School was to be held.
our way he showed us the new Mission House, and
buildings for converts, now just on the point of occupa-
tion, and pointed out the Old Institution, which was
full of scholars, his former house, and the trees which
he himself had planted. We also passed the Leper
Asylum, where these unfortunate people have a main-
tenance on condition of not going out of the compound;
and the Mahratta ditch, made to defend Calcutta from
those dreaded invaders. We had a very pretty drive;
Baranagar itself is a sequestered rural spot, like an
illustration in "Paul and Virginia."
Mr. Smith, the missionary, lives in a very pretty one-
storied native house, with a tank before it, and the school
is a thatched bamboo Bangalow, close by. There are
about 200 pupils. Mahendra once taught there. They
have at present an excellent half-caste Christian master,
and a very clever Hindu teacher, brought up at the
Assembly's Institution. Mrs. Hutton, the wife of the
good English chaplain at Dumdum (who, on the Staples
objecting to the English baptismal service, himself
brought a Free Church Missionary to baptize their
child, and was present at the holy ordinance), was the
only other lady present; but Dr. Clark of Dumdum,
Mr. Ewart, and Mr. Mc Kail were there, and all
examined the boys. They answered extremely well
in mental arithmetic, geography, Roman and English
68
EXAMINATION OF THE PUPILS.
66
""
history, geometry, and Scripture history, &c. The eldest
class read and explained a long passage, taken at random,
from "Paradise Lost," book second, describing Satan's
flight. Dr. Duff asked what was meant by Satan put-
ting on his wings. One answered, "he put them into
practice" (meaning use). This was the only mistake
that I remember. On English history, Mr. Ewart
asked about the civil wars, and then inquired which
was best, war or peace?-they all answered "peace,'
with great zeal. Mr. Ewart observed,
Mr. Ewart observed, "there might
be some just wars, adding, suppose an enemy were to
burst into this country, plundering and destroying
everything, would you not fight?" No, no," said
they. Mr. Ewart, who is a very fine powerful man,
and gives one the idea of being full of manly deter-
mination and courage, was so astonished that he paused
for a moment, and then said, "but would you not fight
for your homes-your own families?" "No," said they,
"the Bengalis would not fight-they are all cowards."
I am not quite sure if he asked whether they themselves
would not fight, or if their countrymen would not do
so; but the answer was as above; and Mr. Ewart
remained dumb and amazed. This made me think that
patriotism seldom if ever exists in those (unless they
are true Christians) who are much in advance of their
countrymen, because they despise their own people,
instead of taking a pride in belonging to them: this
idea would alloy patriotism in general with a huge
portion of vanity and self-exaltation. We are patriotic,
generally, because we think our own nation the best of
all nations, and ourselves honoured by belonging to it;
but, if we perceive it to be inferior, we gladly cut the
tie which binds us to it, unless grace fills the heart with
such patriotism as that of Paul.
After the examination Dr. Duff asked me to distri-
bute the prizes (which consisted chiefly of books used
in the classes). He said it would put a new idea into
the boys' heads, to receive them from the hands of a
lady. I accordingly took my seat at the head of the
table, and delivered the book to each scholar as he was
NATIVE CONVERTS.
69
brought to me. Most of the elder boys made a
graceful bow of acknowledgment, but many of the
others had to be called back, and vigorously reminded
to make salam; and then some made it to Mr. Smith,
and not to me.
The costume was much more varied
and picturesque than at the Parent Institution: some
of the lads had shawls, chains, and other fineries, but
none of those painted marks on the forehead which are
often called "marks of caste," but which are, in reality,
marks of the idol whose votary the wearer is.
We then went to see the lower class, writing: each
boy sits on his own little mat, with a reed in his hand,
and the leaf on which he writes lying on his left palm.
After resting a little at Mr. Smith's house, we drove
home. The Kulín Brahmans of Bengal are divided
into the five following families:-Banerjí, Chatterjí,
Mukají, Gangulí, and Gosal: one of the senior pupils
at Baranagar, with whose appearance I was much struck
(a Gangulí), has since been baptized. One of the things
which impressed me most at the examination at Bara-
nagar, was the perfect knowledge displayed by the scho-
lars of all the doctrines on which they were questioned,
especially the cardinal point of justification, which they
explained in the clearest manner. They expressed
their belief in all they said, and spoke decidedly
against idolatry; but all this is, with most of them,
only the religion of the head: it sets before one in a
strong light the difference between intellectual convic-
tion and heart conversion, the work of men and the
work of the Spirit. How many hearers of the Gospel,
how many children of religious families, are in the same
condition as these poor boys, with a perfect form of
godliness without the power thereof. These Hindus
would doubtless profess the Gospel, and attend regu-
larly on the means of grace, if there were nothing to
be lost by so doing. At home, where there is so much
less difficulty in confessing Christ before men, there is
far greater danger of men deceiving themselves, by
fancying they are Christians when they are not.
Dr. Duff gave me a most interesting account of good
70
-
DR. CAREY'S DEATH.
Dr. Carey's death. He was with him a short time pre-
viously when he was in perfect health. The last sheet
of his "Bengáli Testament" was brought in. He burst
out into thanksgiving, saying, with tears, he had prayed
to be permitted to finish that work before he was sum-
moned hence, and that he was now ready to depart.
After this he began gradually to decline, and the next
time Dr. Duff visited him with his loved colleague, Dr.
Marshman, he was very near death, very feeble, and
just gliding away from earth. Dr. Duff reminded him
of the circumstance of their last interview, and added
that he thought if any man could use the language of
St. Paul," I have fought a good fight," &c., it was Dr.
Carey. The venerable man raised himself up in bed,
and said, "Oh no, I dare not use such very strong
language as that, but I have a strong hope, strong hope,
repeating it three times with the greatest energy and
fervour he fell back exhausted, and when a little
revived his friends took their leave. As they were
going, he called, "Brother Marshman." Ón Dr.
Marshman returning, he said, "You will preach my
funeral sermon, and let the text be, 'By grace ye are
saved.'"
As Dr. Duff observed, the humility yet con-
fidence of this aged saint was very beautiful. After
lunching with these kind friends, who would hardly let
me go, I was obliged to say farewell to them, and
returned home about four.
""
A letter arrived the other day from Akbar Khán,
tenderly reproaching my husband for not having given
him news of his health; he must have heard of our
arrival instantly and written at once.
The substance of the letter from Akbar Khán to
Captain Mackenzie is as follows. The compliments,
which are very elaborate, are omitted, it being scarcely
possible to translate them :
"MOST AFFECTIONATE FRIEND,
"Up to the month of Shuwall, through God's mercy,
the kingdom of Kábúl was in such a state as to be
thankful to God.
LEAVE CALCUTTA.
71
"I assure you that my future conduct will never be
such as to create an impression on your mind against
our friendship and alliance. In every respect you may
keep your mind comfortable, for nothing will be wanting
on my part to please you.
"As I am always anxious to hear from you, it is of
course a matter of regret that, notwithstanding the
existing friendship between us, I may not be informed
of the circumstances and good news of my friends, nor
I be asked to declare my own; this being a failure on
your part, strikes me in mind now and then.
"I feel, however, much pleasure and comfort in
learning verbally the welfare of my friends, through
Moortuza Shah, who was lately here, as messenger
from the Governor-General's agent. With a view to
perpetuate mutual friendship and alliance, I have penned
this note of affection, and hope that, relying upon my
friendship, you will always do the same.
دو
As the last injunction he gave, on sending the
hostages and captives to Bamián, was to cut the
throats of all who could not march; and as he knew
full well that my husband was, from extreme illness,
incapable of walking a hundred yards, you may judge
how far this loving epistle accords with such a parting
benediction. His intention in writing was to endeavour,
through the medium of my husband, to establish a good
understanding with the British Government.
Wednesday, January 6th, 1847.-We stopped at
Spence's Hotel to pick up Miss M. and take leave of
the kind Hennings, and then proceeded to Barrackpúr.
This day five years C. left the cantonments at Kábúl
with our ill-fated force. What a different journey, as
he himself remarked, is he now beginning! May God
grant us grace to be more thankful for His unmerited
mercies.
72
CHAPTER III.
J
- Rani's
Barackpur-Palkis - Palkigaris-Banghy Bardars-Chouki Trees-
Bangalows-Afghans-Travelling-Rajmahal Hills-Ghiljyes-Her
Majesty's 98th-Tigers-Crooked Answers-Amirs of Sind-Akbar's
letter-Son River-Native Huntsman-Benares-Raja of Viziga-
patam Count Goertz The Kurg Rajah.-Gun Cotton.
Ornaments-Elephants-City of Benares-Great Temple-Mosk
Minars-Observatory Mya-The Ghat-Hindu House-Brocades
Nipalese Sattara Raja-Jewels-Free School-Girls' School-
-Examination Papers-Nipalese Sirdars--Sattara Ranis-Review-
Leave Benares-Allahabad-School-Mourning Bride-Cawnpore-
Mission SchoolA Sikh-Costume-Mainpuri.
—
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 6TH, 1847. After leaving
Calcutta, the drive to Barrackpúr was very pleasant, a
long fine road bordered by magnificent trees. The first
thing I remarked was a blacksmith shoeing a horse,
sitting with the hoof in his lap. On one side we saw
an elephant feeding before a cottage, and on the other
two men passed mounted on a camel; so that we
already began to meet with Orientalisms. On arriving
at Gyretty Ghát, we crossed the river, the coachman
accompanying us, and looking very picturesque in his
scarlet dress and queer little forked beard, which he
washed, divided in the middle, and then turned up like
a pair of moustaches. We were a long time in packing
the palkí and palkígárí; and had brought so many
things that we were obliged to give away divers pil-
lows &c., which crowded us. The palkí is like a long
box or a portable berth for a steamer, cushions at one
end for one's head, a little shelf and drawers above
one's feet, and a net above that for oranges, &c.,-
PALKIS AND PALKIGARRIS.
73
two bearers at each end of it supporting it on their
shoulders. When the sun was hot, we unrolled a white
cover which projected about a foot on each side of the
roof, and kept off much of the glare. There are sliding
doors by which you can completely close the palkí; a
reading-lamp at the back of one's head, pockets, mus-
quito-curtains, and everything to make one comfortable.
The carriage is much the same, only larger, and on four
wheels, which are all of the same height. Inside it is
like a vis-à-vis, with a spare cushion which fits between
the two seats and turns it into a bed; and, as it is on
good carriage-springs, the motion is much easier than
that of the palkí. Miss M. had eleven men, i.e.,
bearers, who relieve each other; two men carrying
pitáráhs, and one torchman. We had fifteen men; ten
to push and drag the carriage, four to carry pitá-
ráhs, and one torch-bearer. The latter fed his torch
every now and then with oil which he poured out of a
bamboo, shaped like a quill toothpick. The bearers
wear very little clothing, only a piece of cloth skilfully
wrapped round their bodies, and a sheet which serves
for cloak by night and turban by day.
While waiting, an old man came out of a cottage
opposite, to pick something in his garden, by lamplight.
His figure, with the flickering light on it, and the group
near him preparing their evening meal, as usual, out-
side the little dwelling, which was shaded by fine old
trees, formed a perfect night piece; and no less scenic
was the figure of the masalchi (torchbearer), running
along in his white drapery, or illuminating a whole
group by the vivid blaze of his torch when we stopped
to change bearers.
Each station is called a choukí, literally "seat."
Does not this indicate the difference between the active
European, who stands at his post, and the oriental who
sits at it? By-the-by, I was much struck by the
Sepahis at Barrackpúr; they are very fine men, and
make most graceful salutes. They only wear uniforms
when on duty. The lines where they live are rows of
mud huts. The population near Calcutta is very dense.
VOL. I.
E
•
74
TRAVELLING SCENES.
The scenery was for a long time pretty, and English-
looking, being flat and well wooded. We passed num-
bers of noble banians, the most magnificent of all trees.
We had a lovely night, and slept well. Whenever we
woke there was something to see or hear; sometimes a
jackal prowling near, sometimes the merry chatter of
the bearers, and sometimes the wild, but not unmusical,
shout in chorus, by which they give notice of their
arrival at the choukí. Each man gets about eight pie
(that is a penny) a mile, and generally sixpence to a
whole set for each stage, which is about eight or ten
miles, as bakshish; but C. gives them double.
To lay a dák, you apply to the postmaster so many
days before, and he makes arrangements with the post-
offices up the country. You pay the whole sum at once
into his hands, and find the bearers waiting for you;
and of course have to pay if you detain them beyond a
certain time. We started about half-past five P.M.:
the night was most lovely. At Memári was the first
bungalow we had seen. All the dak bungalows are fac-
similes of each other. They are one-storied buildings
with verandahs, with two sets of apartments, each con-
taining one large room, with one or two cane bedsteads,
a smaller room, and a bath-room with earthen pitchers
full of water, of which we availed ourselves largely. At
Memári we took some milk and chapátis (large thin
cakes of flour and water, like bannocks), and proceeded
to Bardwàn, where we stopped for dinner. Each tra-
veller or party pays one rupee for the use of the bungá-
low for any period not exceeding twenty-four hours. A
butler, bearer, and sweeper are attached to each. The
seemed to us the best we had eaten. The roads
are made of broken bricks; and, further on, of konkar,
a natural composition of clay and sand.
curry
Early on Friday, January 8th, we saw five Afgháns
on camels, to whom C. saluted in Púshtú, the most
harsh and guttural language you ever heard. It sounds
to me like Welsh. We came to a small wood where a
herd of buffaloes were feeding, and bought some of their
milk, which, with plum cake made an excellent break-
TRAVELLING SCENES.
75
fast; the beautiful snow white paddy-birds, attending
as usual on the buffaloes, looked like good spirits watch-
ing evil genii. Our road lay for some distance through
a jungle; we crossed two chain bridges, one of them
spanning a river, which at this season is, as L. might
say, made up of islands. The country then became
very barren, with only one or two trees here and there.
We saw many two-wheeled carts of most primitive con-
struction, drawn by oxen, and some of the curious native
carriages, like a rude throne and canopy, on two wheels.
In one of them this morning was a Múhammadan
woman, veiled; her lord and master, who was sitting at
the edge of the vehicle, gave her a jealous poke with his
elbow as an admonition to wrap herself up more closely,
as we approached. He must have looked with horror at
me walking along, like an Irishwoman, in my night-
cap! The dress of the bearers seems to diminish, and
certainly one's ideas of necessary clothing are becoming
wofully contracted.
I exchanged with Miss M. and went in the palki, so
that I arrived at Assíngole Bungalow about two, and
became rather anxious at the non-arrival of the palkí-
gárí, when a note from my husband told me they had
stopped to get something done to it. With the help of
a vocabulary I ordered curry and rice, and the Khan-
sámán told C. afterwards that "I looked into a little
book, and spoke certain words”—they are very quick at
understanding. The bearers told me entirely by signs,
that the palkígárí had something the matter with its
wheels, and was a long way off, but was coming; in fact
the proper use of one's forefinger is equivalent to a
tolerable knowledge of the language. The Bungalows
and servants are all beautifully clean, and we get very
good curry, milk, eggs, and chapátis, so that the hard-
ships of a traveller in Italy or Switzerland are much
greater than in India; they generally charge one rupee
for our meal. We carry tea and sugar, biscuits, jam,
cold meat, and a little bread with us. We left at half-
past five, and had to cross a nallah nearly dry at this
season, the road very bad, and the country very barren;
E 2
76
PARWATI JUNGLE.
the women carry heavy loads, and seem to work very
hard in the field.
The next morning, January 9th, saw some beautiful
hills (the Dacoity Hills) on the right, and the still finer
Rajmahal range beyond. The people are a finer race
than the Bengalis. We entered the great Parwati
jungle, about twenty-four miles in length, which
abounds in tigers, who have destroyed several persons
within the last year, but the jungle has now been
cleared to some distance on each side of the road, so
that it is not so dangerous as it was, at least by day.
We asked if the gentlemen near did not go into the
jungle to shoot the tigers. They said "No; the forest
was under the protection of the Goddess Parwattí, and
she had as yet given no 'hukm' (i.e. order) that the
tigers should be destroyed." Col. Sleeman relates that
the Hindus believe that when a tiger has once killed a
man he becomes much more dangerous, for the spirit of
his victim sits on his head, and guides him to his
prey.
In one of the villages we saw a suniási, or religious
mendicant, with scanty garments, shaggy locks and
beard, gravely blessing the people. The pictures of St.
Paul, the Hermit, and St. Antony, are perfect suniasis.
We passed some more Afgháns of the Lowání tribe,
taking their frugal meal under a tree; they are all
going to Calcutta to fetch merchandize, their camels
having no burdens at present, save a little fruit, such as
pistacho nuts. The Afgháns are square and strong,
with bushy beards, some brown or reddish, but mostly
black, and ruddy complexions, or what appear such by
the side of the natives. Some spoke Hindustani, but
most Persian; one square-built Ghiljye stood stock still,
with a most wondering stare, on perceiving me. When
C., who was walking, came up, he offered him some
plum cake, which he happened to be carrying in a
sandwich-box. The Ghiljye modestly intended taking a
little piece, but C. put a huge slice into his hand; he
broke a mouthful, tasted it very slowly, and then cried,
with a kind of pleased astonishment, "It is very good!"
THE KOLES; NOTORIOUS ROBBERS.
77
and hastened after his companions to share it with them:
they had been six months on their way from Kabúl.
About the middle of the day we reached the camp of
H.M.'s 98th, at the foot of the Rajmáhál Hills. The
white tents, the groups of natives with bullocks, a
woman bringing hay on her head, the European soldiers
generally within their tents, all formed a pretty picture.
C. went over to Colonel Campbell's, who apologized for
not coming out to see me, as he was not dressed, but
he invited us to stay and dine at the mess, which we
were unable to do. The road was very bad, and our
progress so slow that it was fortunate the beauty of
the scenery, especially the fine and varied forms of the
wooded hills, prevented it from being tedious. We
saw a group of travellers bathing, and some lovely red
lilies in the water. A little child of about two years
old, at one of the choukis, diverted me much; its
only garment was wrapped round its head, and fell like
a mantle behind its shoulders. Its hands were folded
with the decent gravity of a lady abbess over its little.
plump body, but the moment it saw me looking at it,
it dropped its head, turned, and walked off in such a
funny little fit of shyness as much diverted the
lookers-on.
I forgot to mention that on Thursday morning we
saw some huge apes among the crops; these creatures
are held sacred, and no one molests them. A whole
crowd of young boys rushed out from a little village
to help us over a nallah, and so bad was the road, that
between Top Chakki to Dumrí, we were five hours in
going seven miles. C. questioned a trooper appointed
to guard the road, as the Kóles, an aboriginal tribe,
who inhabit all the neighbouring hills, are notorious
marauders. He said they still committed occasional
robberies, "but no murders, since by the favourable
destiny of the Sáhíb Lóg (lordly people) some of them
had been hanged!"
We found one-half of the Bungalow at Dumri,
occupied by Capt. and Mrs. B.: six or seven cockatoos
and other parrots-they are marching. We arrived
78
THE JUNGLE-TIGER'S roar.
ROAR.
about dusk, and started again directly after dinner, as
it was a dangerous part of the jungle on account of
tigers, and the road very bad. I had been startled out
of my sleep by a most unearthly sound like a tiger's
roar, but as the bearers did not hear it, they may have
made it themselves, as they beguiled the way with such
a combination of shouts, screams, and yells, as never
before were heard. I sat up and spied out for tigers a
good part of the night, until I became so sleepy that
as the tiger did not choose to come, I resolved not to
keep awake for him any longer. I suppose this is the
way one gets callous to any danger-one cannot go on
feeling excited about it.
Instead of arriving at Barhí, where we had arranged
to pass the Sabbath, at one o'clock, A.M., on Sunday
morning, we did not get there until one, P.M. The view
of the hills at dawn this morning was lovely, and the
scenery continued beautiful the whole day. C. over-
heard some Palkís behind us, and asked our bearers if
there were not two of them. They answered with the
most subservient phraseology-"If it be your Lordship's
pleasure,”—which he translated, "Your Excellency's
whim," which is indeed the meaning of it-" there shall
be two palkís, or three, or even four." It is difficult to
get a decided answer on any subject, for every native
is accustomed to answer according to what he supposes
to be the whim of his superior. For instance, a fine
young traveller whom C. invited to join us, and who
gladly did so as a protection against tigers, was walking
on as checrily as possible on Monday morning, after
having marched about thirty-two miles, with his sword
slung by a handkerchief over his left shoulder, and a
little red bag held daintily between his finger and
thumb. He is the confidential servant of a neighbour-
ing Raja, who gives him five rupees a month, and was
going to visit his family, about two miles off the high
road. He told us all his family were alive, and the bag
contained a great number of bracelets of various colours
which are only to be had at the place he was coming
from, and which he was taking to his female relatives.
i
VISIT OF THE SIND AMIRS.
79
C. asked him if he was tired,-he said, "Not a bit."
C. remarked that he was a strong young fellow. He
looked much gratified, and answered, "By your Lord-
ship's permission, I am a strong young fellow." He
willingly accepted some tracts; so did a poor Brahmán,
whom we saw yesterday morning on his way to Jagar-
náth-he was sick, so we gave him a homœopathic dose,
which he gladly took.
Miss M. arrived first at Sheregotti: just as we were
entering, a poor Máli or gardener brought us a nazzar
of fruit. A nazzar is a present of fruit from an inferior
to a superior, which is accepted by touching it, and
then repaid by a present in money.
On reaching the Bungalow, I was astonished to see
my husband shaking hands with two very portly men
in white, whom I took for Jews. Miss M. came to tell
me they were some of the Amírs of Sind, and that Dr.
Colman, who is in medical charge of them, had vacated
his apartments for us, and pressed her to eat his break-
fast.~ Not satisfied with this, he sent his servants, tea
equipage, and provisions for our use, so that an excel-
lent repast was prepared for us as if by magic; and I
remarked that the very pat of butter which was placed
ready for his breakfast when we entered, was sent back
untouched for ours. The Amírs sent me a present of
oranges, and said they were coming to pay me a visit
after breakfast. We, therefore, dressed and break-
fasted, during which a small fish-bone stuck in my
throat; whereupon the grave old Khemsámán said
affectionately to C.-" If the child (bábá) will eat some
dry rice, the bone will go down;" so I swallowed the
dry rice and the affront to my dignity, as a “mem
sáhib" together.
C. wished me to find some little present for the
Amírs. I produced a Scotch pebble necklace and
brooch, and a pair of small amethyst earrings; we then
arranged seats for the whole party, some on chairs and
some on the bed, and the three Amirs entered. I shook
hands with each, and begged Dr. C. to express our
pleasure in seeing them, our great sympathy in their
80
VISIT OF THE SIND AMIRS.
misfortunes, and our hope of better times for them.
The highest in rank, Amír Muhammad Khán, of Tál-
pùr, is very handsome, with noble features and expres-
sion. They are all full of intelligence, and spend their
time in writing and reading. They have very fine
heads, but their figures are spoilt by extreme corpu-
lence, which they cherish both as a beauty and as a
mark of dignity, and will, therefore, never ride on
horseback (except in hunting, of which they are very
fond), from fear of becoming thin. They are not tall,
but powerful men, and wear caps like tubes closed at
the top, with thick wavy glossy hair, parted in the
middle, and turned back over the ears. I asked them
about their families, and found that Muhammad Khán
was engaged, but not married. He was to have been
married in about a fortnight, when the last battle took
place. He is about twenty-six, and his brother twenty,
although he looks like a man between forty and fifty.
C. was so surprised at hearing his age, he could hardly
forbear laughing. The other prince, Amír Shah, Mu-
hammad, is a relative of theirs, and brother to the one
who is now hiding in Múltán. They had heard that
C. was to be appointed Political Agent in Múltán, and
were therefore very anxious to speak to him regarding
their kinsman. I asked Dr. C. what credit was to be
attached to the report, of which we had heard nothing.
He said natives had queer ways of obtaining informa-
tion. Amír Shah Muhammad Khán has a melancholy
expression, and is much thinner than the others; he is
about twenty-eight, and has left his wife in Sind. They
have been living at Hazuríbagh, and are now on a little
tour to Benáres.
I offered the necklace to Muhammad Khán for his
intended bride, whom he expects to join him, the brooch
to Shah Muhammad for his wife, and the earrings to
the fat Yár Muhammad, as an encouragement to him
to marry. The idea seemed to divert him extremely.
The chief Amír held out his hand to his kinsmen, to
examine their presents and then made me a specch,
saying, that his gratitude was not transitory, but would
FRIENDSHIP TILL DEATH.
81
last as long as his life, and quoted a Persian verse to
this effect:"I have made a covenant with my beloved
friends, that our friendship shall last while the soul
remains in the body,"-this was quite in the style of
Canning's heroine-“A sudden thought strikes me, let
us swear eternal friendship." So here I am,
ip So here I am, the sworn
friend of a Sind Amír. I had a strong inclination to
laugh, but it would have been monstrous to have done
so; so I expressed the gratification I really felt at their
reception of a small mark of kindness.
·
It would be difficult to give you an idea of their
high bred courteous manner. I asked them for their
autographs, which they each gave me, and in return
requested mine, which I wrote on three sheets of paper,
and added one of those pretty little coloured wafers
with our arms, the meaning of which Dr. C. expounded
to them. They had had long conversations with my
husband previously, and were pleased at hearing that
he and Colonel Outram were friends. We showed
them Akbar Khán's letter, which the chief Amír read
in the melodious chanting way used by the Arabs and
Persians, stopping every now and then with his eyes
and mouth beaming with humour, at some outrageously
barefaced expression of affection from such a personage.
I have seldom seen a finer or more expressive face,
when quiet, it has a strong tinge of melancholy, but
lights up with feeling and wit, so as almost to tell
you what he is saying before the Interpreter can
repeat it.
They inquired about the way to England, which we
showed them on a map, and also two little sketches, I
had made of Madeira and Amsterdam, the only land
we had seen on our weary voyage.
The hospitable doctor made us stay to tiffin, and
when we departed, two of the Amírs came out to see us
off. They were all dressed in close fitting jackets of
red, green, or black, with gold lace, a flowing "sark"
with wide sleeves appearing bencath, and wide trousers.
That generous girl, Miss M., wanted me to take a gold
E 3
82
CROSSING THE SON.
pencil case of hers to give them, instead of my own
trinkets.
As we left Sheregotti, the wide, sandy plain, the
mountains in the distance standing out in sharp relief
from the rich glow of the evening sky, and one solitary
green palm tree in front, with the stately oxen slowly
passing along, formed a lovely Eastern picture. Homer's
epithet, "ox-eyed," is really a compliment no one would
disdain.
Our road still lay through a deep sandy plain, and on
Tuesday, January 12th, 1847, we passed the Són river:
Són means gold, which is found in its sands. The said
sands are three miles across. We took three pair of
bullocks to our light carriage. I believe this immense
bed is sometimes full in the rainy season: as it was, we
were three hours in traversing it. We forded one
stream of 150, and another of about 200 yards wide,
and the refreshment of the breeze blowing over the
clear waters is indescribable, after the heat and glare
of the sand. Carts with oxen, men and women with
children on their hips and shoulders, were fording it
likewise. At last we came to the main stream, where
the carriage was pushed into, or rather on to a boat,
covered with a platform of bamboos and earth, in which
we were ferried over. On a large island or isthmus
was a numerous caravan of pilgrims from Benáres, the
varied groups of persons in the gayest tints, the pil-
grim's colour, yellow, predominating: the equally
gaudy native palkís and carriages, with carts and oxen
intermixed, formed a picture like one of Horace
Vernet's in the desert. Some of the pilgrims were
fording the river at a little distance, and many were
waiting on the shore where we landed. Our bearers
resolved themselves into the very cube roots of men
while on board: it is impossible to conceive the way
in which they contract themselves into the smallest
possible space. Most of the pilgrims were armed, and
we afterwards met many carrying the so-called holy
water of the Ganges, in vases slung across their
NATIVE HUNTSMAN.
83
shoulders on each end of a bamboo, and adorned with
little red flags. We were hot and very weary, for it
was very late when we reached Deári Bungalow. The
aloes between it and the river-side were as dusty as if
they had been shut up in a lumber-room for the last
twenty years.
Wednesday, January 13th. This morning we stopped
at Mohanniah for dinner, and wrote our journals. A
native huntsman came in to sell some teal: his gun was
a very long matchlock, spliced together with bands of
grass. There were delightful green crops of wheat
visible to-day, that refreshed our eyes; and it has be-
come so much cooler, that we find it difficult to keep
ourselves warm at night. We saw a flock of pretty
long-tailed paroquets. About dawn we reached the
Ganges, which we crossed in a wide boat like those on
the Són, and, after a long drive, arrived at Major Car-
penter's house about seven o'clock. On our way we saw
a man with his beard stained red with henna.
Thursday, January 14th.-I sat with L. the whole
day. The young Rajah of Vizigápátám called: he is
ebout twenty, and very handsome (which he knows),
with a peach-like bloom on his cheeks which any woman
might envy; but he has a vacant expression, and will
probably become very fat. He has lately lost his father,
who had lived in Benáres for the last ten years, and the
Government has requested the young Rajah to return
to his dominions, and manage as much of his own affairs
as they have left in his power. He has been very care-
fully brought up by an English tutor: speaks English
perfectly. His mother, a very beautiful woman, lived
at enmity with her husband, and even separated from
him. The old Rajah caused his own death by starving
himself for fifteen days to cure a boil. When the Raní
found that her husband was dying, she came with a
young cousin, a very handsome girl, to Major C. one
morning at dawn, to entreat him to reconcile her to the
Rajah, on account of the disgrace it would be to her
should he die before this was done. He went with
them in the same carriage (a thing unheard of), but
84
THE YOUNG RAJAH.
the poor prince was insensible. The Rání has become
a Bairágin or religious devotee ;-the word expresses
one who is without passions. She cannot leave the
holy city, has laid aside all her jewels, and sees no one
but her son and her female attendants. The young
Rajah came to-day to get money to marry the said
cousin, who is betrothed to a native prince. He wore a
close-fitting shawl dress (chapkan-much like the Af-
ghán garb), wide trousers of cloth of gold, and a pecu-
liar cap of silver, like a Greek cap, worn only by his
family. He drove away in a buggy! A Rajah in a
buggy! He is a first-rate billiard player.
A very pleasing young German, Count von Goertz
of Hesse Cassel, arrived this morning; and late in the
evening, Count de Blacas and Count Nicolay, the two
French Carlist gentlemen we met at Calcutta. Count
de Blacas (son of the Duke de Blacas, the faithful
adherent of Henri V.) appeared to have much of the
quiet self-possession and retenue of a true gentleman;
Count Nicolay is more lively, and a thorough French-
man. I believe they are wandering about the world
pour se désennuyer-bourgeois France being unworthy
of their presence. They are all lodged in tents.
Friday, January 15th.-I drove to hear the band:
they seemed to play with precision, but without feeling,
like foreigners reading a language they do not under-
stand. After dinner, C. produced some gun cotton,
just as the Kurg Rajah arrived. He is a small man,
with an aquiline nose, and was dressed in straw-coloured
satin, with a small muslin turban on his head, and a
magnificent necklace of emeralds and pearls: he greeted
my husband with a degree of cordiality which rather
surprised me, considering that their first acquaintance
was at the taking of Kurg. As soon as he was seated
we proceeded with our experiments, and I exploded a
little bit of cotton on the palm of his hand. He had
kindly brought the jewels of the Rání to show me, and
he came with us into the drawing-room, where he dressed
Marina's head with them in a style which made us
suspect he was in the habit of dressing his wife, so
KURG RAJAH.
85
artistic were his proceedings. There was a most queenly
head ornament, consisting of a band of jewels, from
which rose a diamond star, several other bands of gold
and jewels depending over the back of the head, with
strings and tassels of pearls and emeralds for mixing
with the hair which hangs down the back; magnificent
pearl earrings, and no less than four collars and neck-
laces put on one over the other, a splendid zone of gold,
set with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, and equally
fine bracelets and armlets. His own state ornaments
consisted of a double row of the finest pearls supporting
a large emerald, which was the most valuable of all.
The Rajah is a very polite, but reserved man, and feels
his downfall very much. Major C. asked him to accom-
pany us to-morrow morning to the city, as we require
a great many elephants for so large a party.
Saturday, January 16th, 1847.-We started soon
after gun-fire (dawn), and drove to the city, where we
mounted the elephants. Major C. and I were on one
belonging to one of the Delhi royal family, with a silver
howdah; but the pad worn into holes, a curious con-
trast. MM. de Blacas and de Nicolay were on a pad,
a kind of saddle. The Kurg Rajah had a hunting
howdah, in which, though it is contrary to etiquette for
natives of rank to have any one with them on an ele-
phant, he took Count Von Goertz, and my husband.
occupied the seat behind them; and, such was the
Rajal's politeness, that he wanted to take that place
himself. The two young ladies went together; and we
picked up Mr. Sandberg, one of the German mission-
aries, and Mr. Mackay, who is at the head of the
Church Missionary School, and mounted them on a
spare elephant with a pad. The elephant is made to
kneel, and the rider mounts by a ladder; the huge
creature then raises himself on his fore legs, and you
are thrown backwards: he then raises his hind legs,
and you are thrown forwards, as if you were riding on
a huge wave of the sca. When once mounted, the
motion is very casy, and the height placed us on a level
with the first stories of the houses, so that I spied into
86
BEHADERING.
the rooms, and curious little pigeon-holes most of them
were.
We were attended by three sawárs (horsemen)
belonging to the Agency, and divers men on foot
preceded us, clearing the way. One of them, in a
very gaudy dress of blue and yellow, with a crimson
turban, and sword in hand, in the service of one of
the princes who lent us the elephants, was the most
perfect specimen of a Behádering official I have yet
seen. Behádering is an indispensable word to ex-
press the demeanour of many men and horses in this
country. It means consequential, swaggering, and the-
atrical, with a great affectation of dignity; and implies
that the man or horse in question is in gorgeous
array and making a fuss. In its proper sense the word
is a title, and is applied to any gallant soldier. Thus,
Haider Ali is always spoken of in the Carnatic as
Haider Bahádar. The sawárs (of whom I have since
sketched one) were very picturesque, clothed in green
and scarlet, with their long spears in hand. The streets
are so narrow, that there was just room enough for one
elephant to pass. I wish I could give you an adequate
idea of the picturesqueness of our whole morning tour.
The shops are mostly under arcades, with curiously
carved pillars, painted, as are many of the houses, deep
red. Some of these dwellings are very fine, with hand-
somely carved balconies; and, wedged in among the
houses, are numerous small temples and shrines called
Shewállahs, built and endowed by any one who has a
devotion for a particular idol, as a Romanist would do
for his patron saint. The elephants stopped, we
descended, and, walking along a very narrow passage,
we found ourselves in a small oblong hall, with vaulted
roof, open at the top, supported by pillars on all sides,
and approached by three or four steps. A curious
shaped stone was in the centre, on which crowds were
successively pouring water and throwing flowers and
grains of rice: this was the Temple and Altar of Máha
Deo, the chief God of Benáres, who, in philosophical
language, Mr. Mackay told us, represents the fecundity
VISSESHWAR TEMPLE IN BENARES.
87
of nature. But here, as everywhere, what to the
learned is an abstraction, to the unlearned is a bond fide
individual idol. Many fine young sepáhis, in their
ordinary dress, but easily known by their carriage and
height, were bringing their offering of grains of rice
and drops of water. Some old Brahmans met us, and
showed us everything with the greatest obsequiousness.
They brought us wreaths of strongly-scented white and
yellow flowers, which, however, I carefully avoided put-
ting on my neck, thinking it might look like a homage
to the Sháitán of the place. I therefore put it on my
arm; but a Brahman soon came and took it away, lest
one of the sacred oxen, who were marching about the
temple, should snatch it, and poke me at the same time.
On the right hand side was a small dark apartment,
containing a silver tank offered by some Rajah to this
shrine. The devout prince filled it with rupees, gold
mohars, and precious stones to an immense amount. It
is under the protection of the Agency.
The name of this temple (which is the most venerated
in Benáres) is Bisseshwár or Visseshwar. Crossing the
little court, which was very splashy from the quantity
of libations poured out, we ascended a very narrow
staircase, up which no stout person could go, to what
might be called the leads of the temple. Here were
three quadrilateral domes close together, which are
being gilded from money left by Ranjit Sing. Immense
sums were sent with a portion of his ashes to various
temples, and amongst others to this one. The temple
is very small in comparison to European places of wor-
ship. On descending, we were led along a curious
passage full of images and altars like the first (the
whole having much the appearance of the entry to a
museum of antiquities),-to a well in which, when the
former temple was desecrated by the Muhammadans
under Aurangzeb, the god took refuge. It is surrounded
by a railing, and offerings of flowers, water, and rice
are continually thrown down to propitiate the helpless
divinity. The odour of sanctity of Hindu Mythology is
not more agreeable to the olfactory nerves than
88
HINDE OBSERVATORY.
that of the Romish begging fraternities—so we quickly
left the spot. The Brahmans seem in no way different
in dress from their countrymen, except that all of those
in the temple had their heads and beards partially
shaved. Most of them wore red mantles. The remains
of the former temple were very fine. On its ruins
Aurangzeb built a mosque, which we proceeded to visit;
and, coming from the idol temple, I felt a relief, and even
an emotion of sympathy with the simple building we
entered, where, at least, there was nothing outward and
visible to dishonour the Most High. The only thing
which it contained was a raised place for the mulláh to
preach from. We want up one of the minarets, a toil-
some undertaking, for which we were rewarded by a
magnificent view of the stately river, the flat-roofed
picturesque city interspersed with trees, and imme-
diately beneath us flocks of the sacred blue pigeon,
which always haunts a mosque, while divers pretty
long-tailed paroquets had perched themselves on the
smaller pinnacles. This was the most thoroughly
Eastern city I had yet beheld: after enjoying the view
for some time we descended, and went to see a curious
observatory built by a Rajahı learned in astronomy, Jai
Sing by name.
I was astonished to find we were admitted everywhere
without the smallest difficulty. Mussulmans are not
permitted to enter the Visseshwar Temple; but the
Hindus acknowledge that our religion is very good and
true for us, so they are as liberal as some members of
parliament. This observatory has a representation of
the planetary system, which would astonish Sir John
Herschell. A huge block of stone in the centre of a
circle represents the highest mountain in the world,
the earth itself is supposed to rest upon an elephant,
which again rests upon a tortoise according to some,
upon a serpent according to others. I begged to know
upon what the tortoise stood. The pandit, who was
our guide, said, "Oh these are all mya (illusions).
Everything is an illusion. Bramh is dreaming, and sees
all these things in his dream. He sees you all coming
MYA-THE GHAT.
89
here." C. squeezed the pandit's little finger, and asked
if that was an illusion. He said yes. He pinched him
harder; but, though he made a hideous grimace, at
which the bystanders laughed, the imperturbable manstill
answered that it was all mya. C. then said, "If all is
mya, how do you know that I am not the Brahman and
you the Feringhi? Some of the Brahmans teach this
doctrine, others that everything is an emanation from
Brahm-gods, men, animals, and all are parts of him,
and will be ultimately absorbed in his essence.
part of Bramh (or, as they pronounce it, Brum) can do
evil, they do not explain. The Hindu system is more
one of philosophy than of religion: it professes to
account for everything. The learned are all atheists,
pantheists, or idealists, while the poorer say, as many
gods so many religions; and believe that a change of
fashion in this matter occurs every now and then, when
a new faith is revealed.
How a
We descended an immense pyramidical flight of steps
to the river. The top of this ghat was overhung with
trees: and the groups of our numerous party were
worth sketching as they stood on it. A fine boat, with
two wooden horses at the bow, and many arm-chairs
under an awning, awaited us. It belonged to the
Rajah of Benáres. The rowers all sat on deck and
pulled in a curious fashion. No panorama was ever
more striking than that which now passed before our
eyes. The curious buildings, elaborately carved tem-
ples, the ghat on which dead bodies are burnt, the
numerous and many coloured groups of bathers, and
even a part of the road which was to have been sup-
ported on arches, but has sunk into the water from the
effects of an earthquake, all added to the pictorial effect
of the scene.
On landing we remounted our elephants, and the sun
beginning to be felt, the indefatigable swordsman who
rode behind me, and who had been running after me
with an umbrella wherever I went, unfolded a superb
chatta or parasol of velvet and gold, with a silver stick,
which he held over my head. The shops were getting full.
90
NATIVE HOUSE.
We went to a house considered one of the finest in
Benáres, but now rather dilapidated, the master of
which conducted us over it. It was of three stories,
built around a small court with a balcony overlooking
the same at each story; the carving of the balcony and
of the balustrades was beautiful. One side of the house,
divided from the rest by the pardh (or veil), is appro-
priated to the women. Here no men enter but the
master of the house (whose private apartments are
within it), his sons and brothers. The women fled at
our approach, but a group of merry girls and children
filled up the window of the latticed partition, which
divided off their share off the roof, and gazed at us
with much curiosity. In the hot weather the natives
sleep much on the roofs. We saw the state room
where visitors are received, and family ceremonies take
place; it is divided across the middle by a row of
columns: none of the rooms were high. We next
went to a very shabby entrance in another house, up a
narrow stair into a low room lit by a square opening in
the roof like the apartments at Pompeii. This was the
house of one of the richest manufacturers in Benáres.
Half of the room was raised one step. Here we sat
while bales of the most magnificent gold and silver
stuffs, called kinkob, were unrolled before us. I do not
suppose any European brocades equal them. They
are used by the natives for trousers, but are almost too
heavy for any articles of European dress, unless it were
for court trains. Some of the muslins spotted with
gold, and muslin shawls and scarfs with gold and silver
borders for about thirty rupees were beautiful. MM. de
Nicolay and de Blacas having selected those which they
wished to have brought to the house, the merchant
offered us spices in a little silver saucer, and attá of
roses, into which we each dipped a finger. We then
remounted our elephants and soon rejoined the car-
riages, in which we drove home.
On our way we met a party of Ghurka soldiers
belonging to the Rájah of Nipál who is just arrived
here. They were short, square men with a Chinese
I
SATARA RAJAH.
91
or Tartar look, high cheek bones, and small eyes: each
wore a curious silver ornament in his turban, something
like a heart with the point upwards.
After tiffin the Satára Rajah came to pay a visit.
He has lately been deposed by us, owing to a series of
forgeries in his name, and has been condemned unheard.
Many believe him perfectly innocent. Major C. pro-
claims this boldly on all occasions, and consequently
the Rajah is most grateful to him. My husband's
opinion is that the Rajah did enter into some prohibited
intrigues, but by no means to the extent asserted by his
enemies, and that, both in our public and private deal-
ings with the natives, even-handed justice requires that
we should make the same allowance for deceit and
intrigue in them that we do in Europe for an awkward
manner, or an ill-shapen nose; the one is as natural
and (while they continue heathen), as unavoidable as
the other. We should take notice of none but overt
acts and imminent treachery.
The Diwán brought a placard announcing a public
meeting in London on the subject of Satára; and when
Major C. spoke kindly to the Rajah concerning it, the
latter seized his arm, hugged and patted him. He is
the representative of Sivají, the great Mahratta con-
queror; he is a very small man, and was dressed in
tight muslin trousers, and a short transparent muslin
tunic; slippers very wide at the toes like those of
Henry VIII., a pearl and emerald necklace, small white
turban with earrings, and a red spot on his forehead
showing that he had performed púja (worship) to Krishna,
that morning. He came on an elephant smoking his
húqa, and attended only by a few horsemen and marshal-
men, but his Sawarí, or cortége, was not thus to be left
behind, and either following their own pleasure or his
instructions arrived soon after him, though Major C.
had begged him to dispense with their attendance, and
make merely a private visit. I was very glad to see
them, as they passed the door at which we stood. Every
one belonging to the Rajah was present. There were
92
OLD BARD.
two or three small guns, then divers elephants, bearing
the different members of his family, among them his
adopted son, a little boy of perhaps ten years old, and
his little grandchild, a girl of four. The Mahrattas are
almost the only people who show their female children
in public; they also intermarry with Muhammadans,
as the Rajputs did in Akbar's time. Then came a troop
of horse, many of them dressed like guardsmen, with
short red jackets and white trousers: some with mus-
kets, some with lances, some on horses, some on poneys,
some in one colour, some in another, carriages of all
sorts, palkígárís, and even a child's carriage, closed the
procession; in the midst of which appeared several of
their once dreaded standards, some foot soldiers, and
military music, the predominant part of which were the
kettle-drums, which, as a symbol of sovereignty, were
beaten with redoubled fury as they passed their Prince.
The Rajah waved his hand and an old man alighted from
his horse, who fixing his eyes on me (just as if I under-
stood him), and raising his arm, began to shout the
glories of Sívají, the founder of the Mahratta Monarchy.
I looked very attentive, and after a time the Rajah
signed to the old bard to finish.
On re-entering the house I asked my husband to tell
the Rajah how pleased I was with the Sawári, and how
much I admired his little grandchild, whereupon he
asked me to come and see the Ranís. The Rajah is a
very excitable, vivacious, intelligent old man, very quick
and active in all his movements, and incessantly eating
some spices wrapped in green leaves (called Pán),which
the natives are very fond of, and which stains the inside
of the mouth a bright red. Count Nicolay showed him
a revolving pistol with twenty barrels, made at Vienna,
and as he fitted caps on them and began to fire them off
for the Rajah's amusement, I went to explain the cause
of all this commotion to L. I thus lost the parting
scene when the Rajah embraced my husband, and said
he loved every one who belonged to Major C.
A jeweller came in the afternoon with diamonds,
BENARES SCHOOL.
93
pearls, and emeralds for sale, the former are about one-
third cheaper than in England, the pearls were rather
high, fifty rupees for one the size of a pea. MM. de
Nicolay and de Blacas left in the evening.
Monday, January 18th.-We were up early, and
drove with Miss M. and Count Goertz to see the Free
School, where the missionary, Mr. Sandberg, and the
master, Mr. Mackay, met us. This school was founded
by a Hindu upwards of twenty years ago, and placed
under the Church Missionary Society. It has about
300 pupils, who learn Hindústani, Persian, Sangskrit,
Bengáli, or English, as they choose. We were first led
round the school, which is held in one large hall; in
some of the classes I was astonished to see bearded
men, fathers of families, as they told me.
These were
Brahmen who consider it honourable to continue always
learning, even though never able to come to the
truth." The English class was then called forward,
and read the third chapter of John. My husband
questioned them on it; they did not answer particularly
well on doctrine, but when Mr. Sandberg examined
them, they showed an excellent knowledge of the facts
of the Bible, and found out passages to prove particular
points, such as the divinity of our Lord, as well as any
boys in England could have done. They then answered
very satisfactorily in Roman and English history, and
in mathematics; during which time I cross-examined
Mr. Mackay as to the method of teaching and its
results. Until lately he was single-handed in the work.
All the boys read the New Testament, and religious
instruction is given them almost entirely by word of
mouth. Those boys who do not learn English are
taught almost everything in the same manner, by short
lectures, owing to the want of books in the native
languages. The main defect in this school seems to be,
that so small a number of the pupils learn English, in
which language alone they could receive a thoroughly
good education. All the Persian and Muhammadan
books contain fierce attacks on Christianity, either in
the preface or volume itself; the Persian scholars are,
9.4
SCHOOL AT SIGRA.
therefore, the most inimical to Christianity, and are
incapable of reading works of a different tendency,
from their ignorance of the English. Mr. Sandberg
gives lectures in Urdu, which I found to be identical
with Hindustaní (Urdu means camp), on the first prin-
ciples of physical science, which are attended by num-
bers of people in the neighbourhood; and all the boys
have free access to the library of English books, of
which many gladly avail themselves. Not one conver-
sion has even taken place in this school, though some
who have been impressed with the truth they have heard
there, have afterwards professed themselves Christians
in other places.
Benáres offers peculiar obstacles to any who wish to
become converts, the city being the sacred capital of
Hinduism and the very focus of fanaticism. The first
four boys in the English class profess themselves con-
vinced of the truth of Christianity; so did the teachers
of the Hindustaní class, the boys of which answered.
extremely well on a chapter in the New Testament, but
they go no further. Now this, be it remembered, is the
state of mind of almost all the pupils of the Free Church
College in Calcutta, besides which they have an increas-
ing band of converts. Where most fruit appears, there,
I think, we may justly conclude is the best manner of
sowing the seed. The missionaries showed us a curious
Sangskrit MS. with pictures of the Hindu deities.
Bramh is the supreme god in a state of quiescence:
Brámáh, Vishnú, and Shivá are emanations from him, or
rather, perhaps, impersonations of his different attributes.
Leaving the school we drove to Sigrá, where Mr.
Leupolt, of the Church Missionary Society, is at the
head of a male and female orphan school and Christian
village formed thereupon. We visited both; the boys
did not answer very well, when questioned as to salva-
tion by grace and not by works; but this might be
partly from shyness and from imperfect use of English,
for they seemed very intelligent and appeared to under-
stand my husband's explanation. They answered well
in geography; and in the school-book of one of the elder
FEMALE EDUCATION.
95
pupils ("Chambers on Physical Science"), I found a
neat little paper book, in which was the definition, and
sometimes the Hindustaní translation of every difficult.
word in the part that he had read. They are taught
carpet-maket; all they earn is their own, and as soon
as they can support themselves they are allowed to
marry; they thus form a Christian village. A pretty
church has just been built, in which the Liturgy in
Hindustaní is read.
We visited the carpet manufactory and the dyeing-
rooms, and then went to Mr. Leupolt's to breakfast.
It was about half-past eleven, and we were so weak and
tired we hardly knew what to do. Count Goertz was
one of the worst. After breakfast and family prayers
we went to see the girls' school: they were at work,
and do both plain work and knitting extremely well.
The education consists of reading and working, reli-
gious instruction, and a little geography. This appears
to be the prevalent system in most missions, except
those of the Free Kirk. I am inclined to think that
in the present weak state of the church in India, every
convert ought to be fitted as far as possible for convey-
ing the knowledge of the Gospel to others. No one
can deny that a body of Christian women of disciplined
minds, thoroughly acquainted with Christian doctrine
and evidences, would do better service to God and the
infant churches, both as wives, mothers, and neigh-
bours, than such as can barely read and write. Mahen-
dra's widow is an example of this; she was an excellent
teacher. Anna, the widow of Koilás, has now charge of
a native class of day scholars under Miss Laing's eye;
and Marian, the senior pupil of Miss Laing's institu-
tion, who is now (1850) the wife of Jagadishwar, has
opened a school at Bansberia, which, two months after,
was attended by nineteen girls, from four to ten years
of age, and which she conducts without the aid of any
On the whole, these schools at Benáres are excel-
lent institutions, and doubtless do much good, yet
neither (and more especially the free school) is to be
compared with the Assembly's college or Miss Laing's
one.
96
NIPAL SIRDARS.
school in Calcutta. From the orphan school here,
however, they have, we are told, already two or three
catechists of talent and piety.
Tuesday, January 19th.-One of Major C.'s Sawárs
came to be sketched. I sat in the verandah and drew
him: I found the horse so difficult that he reminded
me of the enfant difficile à baptiser! I forgot to tell
you that story of Mr. Cameron's. A certain priest in
Canada, being somewhat intoxicated, could by no means
find the proper place in the Missal, when called on to
baptize a child. In vain he fumbled over the leaves,
until at last, losing all patience, he cried, "Je n'ai
jamais vu un enfant si difficile à baptiser." Mr. Leu-
polt and Mr. Sandberg dined with us; the latter spoke
very highly of Khrishná Mohan Bánerjí, and though
he confessed he thought a good deal of forms, denied
that he was at all Puseyistical. Mr. Leupolt is a very
successful homœopathist.
Wednesday, January 20th.-Major C. came to ask
me to draw a Nipál Sirdár; two were with him, and he
wanted to get rid of one that he might have some
private conversation with the other, for there has lately
been a terrible massacre in Nipál, about forty of the
chief nobles being slain in open Darbar. The Rajah
denies that he had any hand in it; and when C. told
him he was the sovereign of the country, aad therefore
responsible, he said he had lost his authority for a time.
It seems the heir apparent is undutiful, and the Rání,
his father's wife, is jealous of him, and her faction
murdered the nobles of his party. The youth I was
led to draw is brother of Jung Bahadar, the present
Prime Minister of Nipál, and was art and part in the
Kharrak Bahadar is a finely made young
man, with beautifully-shaped arms and hands; when
in repose, his face had rather an indolent sentimental
expression: but such a wild eye! just like a panther's.
He wore a small brocade turban, with the usual heart
or shield-shaped ornament in it made of gold, a scarlet
jacket, with gold lace and epaulettes, the sleeves reach-
ing only to a short distance above the elbow, and
massacre.
THE RANIS.
97
trimmed with dark fur, beneath which appeared the
tight muslin sleeves of a kind of "sark," reaching
to his knee. He had tight white silk trousers, white
stockings and slippers, and a sword in his hand.
C.'s bábú translated my admiration of his dress,
which seemed to please the youth not a little; but had
I known then of his evil deeds, I would not have said a
word to him. Afterwards, the old sirdár came to be
drawn, a fine sagacious old man, who, being of the
losing party, is not sure of his life from day to day,
and whom Kharrak Bahádar would be the first to
attack. Major C. has been trying to persuade him not
to return to Nipál, but in vain. He wore a tunic of
cloth of gold, and a white shirt-like thing underneath
it, shawl trousers, no stockings, and a small white
turban. His sword was a beautiful Khorásán blade,
the hilt finely worked in iron and inlaid with gold.
After tiffin, C. and I., Count Goertz, and the two
young ladies, set forth on our visit to the Sattárá
Ranís; the Rajah sent his own coachman and Sáises for
us. We dressed ourselves in clear muslin morning
dresses, not to appear dowdy by the side of the Ranís,
We drove up to a house not nearly so handsome as
Major C.'s, and we three ladies were ushered to a
room quite bare of furniture, where the Rajah sat
smoking his huqá, in a common wooden arm chair,
three similar ones being set at his right hand for us. A
rezai (quilt) was then thrown over his chair, I suppose
to make it soft. He shook hands with us, and having
scated us, went to the door to look after the gentlemen,
his huqá bearer running after him. In a few minutes.
he took me by the hand, or rather by the wrist, as you
would lead a naughty child, and conducted us through
one or two low rooms with curtains instead of doors, to
a mean apartment, long, low, and dark, where the
Ranís sat. One of them we were desired not to
approach or touch; the other, and the Rajah's daughter,
shook hands with us, and placed us in chairs by her
side: two other ladies sat on the other side of the room
like us, close to the wall.
VOL. I.
r
98
THE RANIS.
M. speaks Hindustaní very imperfectly, therefore we
could not say much. The Rajah left us, and I admired
the dress of the ladies, which consisted of a very short
red jacket with short sleeves, armlets, bracelets, and a
nose ring, chiefly of pearls; a red drapery, embroidered
or sprigged with gold, enveloped the whole person.
The attendants (one of them, a very fine looking
woman) wore a cloth, put on just like the bearers, leav-
ing the right leg exposed to the knee, and a very hand-
some stout limb it was.
The Rajah's daughter was small and not handsome,
but had a very pleasant expression. She, and the other
ladies, seemed pleased and amused at my praise of their
dress and jewels, and the poor untouchable one opened
her veil, and showed us her jacket, which was cloth of
gold.
Wreaths and bracelets of the double white Indian
jessamine were brought, and thrown over our necks
and arms, a pretty and poetical mode of welcome, then
six trays of fruit, barley sugar, &c., were laid at our
feet, we ate a little, but did not take any fruit, not
knowing what it might be proper or improper to do
with the peel, as there were no plates. One of the
door curtains was lowered, and a band stationed behind
it; a singing woman, with stiff outstanding petticoats
of red and gold, was introduced. Her singing was to
me almost inaudible, and her dancing consisted of
advancing and retreating a few steps, holding her left
arm akimbo, and gently twirling her right hand in the
air, as if on a pivot. Two female servants, with bundles
of peacock's feathers (which are emblems of royalty),
stood by each of the two principal Ranís and whisked
these brushes over their heads. A good many other
damsels, and some of the servants and children, lined
the lower part of the room, most of whom suddenly
retreated when the old Rajah returned. All the ladies
remained standing in his presence; his daughter put
spices and almonds in our hands, and when we had
praised her little child, we shook hands and bowed.
The Rajah led me down some steps through an odd
4
A DURBAR.
99
little garden, consisting of divers little courts, to the
door of his hall of audience! there we peeped through
the screen, till the Rajah perhaps reflecting that we
must be already more visible to those within, than they
could be to us, ordered the screen to be raised, and
ushered us into his Darbár.
This was a long apartment supported on small
columns, a large throne or seat for the Rajah was at the
upper end, on the right hand of which were some
cushions on the ground for the little princes of his own
family, while in two rows, the whole length of the room,
close by the walls, sat the faithful Sirdárs and other
Mahrattas, who had followed their sovereign in his
adversity. I recognized all who appeared in the Sawári
the other day. They sat on their heels, C., like an
adept, cross legged, Count Goertz as best he could,
both on the floor, while wreaths were brought, which
the Rajah threw over their shoulders and arms, and
which looked very pretty on the red jacket-the Rajah
then gave them spices, and salámed to us.
He had left his little grandchild in my keeping, and
when I said I should like to take her away, he said I
might, and then patted the little thing, and pinched its
cheeks with much affection. The whole Darbár stared
at us with profound attention. The little child gave
me her hand, and the Rajah reconducted us through
the garden, and we then sent for the gentlemen to
rejoin us.
While waiting, the small thing, which has magnifi-
cent black eyes, and a little aquiline nose, and was
dressed in light muslin trousers, and short coat of the
same, with a kind of Greek cap of silver and gold on
its head, its hair hanging in one plait down its back,
clenched its toes as if they were fingers, making in fact
a little fist of its foot: this shows how wonderfully
elastic and supple the people in this country are.
Pán, i.e. little green packets of leaves, inside which
is a kind of seed, mixed with powdered lime, was brought
to us with the spices. The natives chew this, leaf and
all it dyes the mouth a bright red colour, and has a
:
or M
F 2
100
REVIEW OF INFANTRY.
very pungent taste. Came home much pleased with
our visit. The trays of fruit were sent after us: we
touched them in token of acceptance, and they were
then given to the servants.
Early the next morning we drove to the Parade.
Theth Native Infantry was reviewed. The men
fired very well, and the contrast between the salute of
the Native and European officers was very remarkable;
the former did it with an air and a grace" that did
one good to behold, slowly, at the right time, and with
perfect self-possession, looking the general full in the
face. Some of the European officers poked their heads,
saluted awkwardly and in a hurry. There is nothing I
dislike more in manner than a want of quiet self-posses-
sion. The natives often remind me of Highlanders in
that respect.
It is wonderful how the people here submit to any
one who chooses to exert authority. Our absurd pos-
tilion, who is dressed like an English postilion (plus a
long scanty black beard), ordered the Sepahís and others
to keep out of the way, and make a clear space in front
of the carriage that we might see perfectly, and when
they encroached, he touched them and they retreated.
The Hindustaní Sepahís are very fine men, much
taller than the English soldiers, but not so strongly
made they chiefly come from Oude, or the Upper
Provinces. It was beautiful to see them run when
skirmishing, they are so light and active. They are
dressed very much like European troops, and wear no
beards, but as much whisker and moustache as they
like, or, as Carlyle would say, "according to faculty."
They have a collar of large white beads, instead of a
stock, while the native officers wear necklaces of gold
knobs. The review began soon after seven.
Being tired, I did not go to dine at the General's,
whither my husband escorted Miss M. and Marina.
Count Goertz and I therefore dined by ourselves: he
got up to say good-bye to C., and came back looking
quite sad, and said, "I am so sorry to take leave of
Captain M." We all liked him extremely. He is
NATIVE COACHMAN.
101
highly intelligent and well-informed, travelling for in-
struction before settling down in life, and with a rare
and most pleasing modesty. He is a fine specimen even
of Germany.
Friday, January 22nd.-The Diwán of the Rajah of
Sattárá came before breakfast, and asked me to take his
likeness, I accordingly sketched him. When the young
Rajah of Vizigapatam was here the other day, C. showed
him my sketch of the Nipal Sirdárs, and asked him if
he would like to sit for his portrait. He confessed that
his prejudices would not allow him to do so: his English
education, without religion, does not seem to have done
him much good. He has not the least wish to visit
Europe.
Monday, January 25th.-It rained, and for the first
time I perceived that the compound was not one unvaried
mass of sand, but that part was in grass. The trees
changed from brown to green, and the landscape was
wonderfully improved. The trees here are generally
protected when young by an embankment of carth
about four feet high, so that when they become large
trees, they grow from the top of small hillocks.
Tuesday, January 26th.-I finished a copy of the old
Nipal Sirdar's picture, which he wished to have for his
family,* and then sat talking until the sad time of part-
ing arrived. We left about ten P.M., having sent the
palkí on in the morning. The Rajah of Benáres kindly
laid a dák of his own horses for us, as far as Gopíganj,
thirty-six miles, on our way to Allahabad. The same
coachman drove us the whole way, the Rajah lending
both him and the Brischkah; we of course rewarding
his people. He was a queer little man, in close jacket
and trousers, the former red, the latter blue with broad
red stripe; a turban, over which he had wrapped a white
cloth, made his head and shoulders look too heavy for
his little legs, and over all, while the rain continued, he
wore a kind of thick horse-cloth, which covered him
from head to foot. He got down at cach stage, and
gravely looked on whilst the Sáiscs put the horses to,
* This fine old man has since been murdered.
102
PILGRIMS AND FAQIRS.
which they did with great caution and dexterity, as the
country horses are almost all vicious. This was proved
at our last stage, when one of the fresh pair threw him-
self down, and after much trouble we were obliged to
take the former pair on another stage. They testified
their disapprobation of this arrangement, by stopping
every five minutes, so that it was more owing to the
Sáises, who as usual ran alongside, than to them that
we at length reached Gopíganj, about half-past four A.M.
While C. was arranging the carriage one of the bearers
took a little straw in which a bottle had been wrapped
and made a blaze; but when they proceeded to burn
the basket in which the bottle came, the coachman
took it away from them, and they gave it up at once.
I thought how pugnacious Englishmen would have
grumbled and quarrelled about it.
One of the agency Sawars had escorted our baggage.
C. showed him his six-barrelled pistol; the bearers all
looked on with interest, and the coachman exclaimed,
"What a wonderful destiny is mine to have seen such
a thing!"
We met numbers of Afgháns with their
long strings of camels. The whole way was thronged
with pilgrims and water-carriers, from Allahabad
(where the Ganges and Jamma join), and travellers of
different kinds a striking contrast to the quiet state
of the road between Benáres and Calcutta. We saw
divers Faqírs or Yogìs covered with ashes, one of them
carrying a red umbrella, though he had no clothes.
Crossed the Ganges about two P.M., by a very primitive
but strong bridge of boats. A Sawar of Mr. Wood-
cock's, the magistrate, met us, and conducted us over
a deep sandy plain, through Allahabad, which is very
prettily adorned with trees, to Mr. Woodcock's house,
on our way to which we passed hedges of the milk
plant, whose juice is a strong blister, yet the goats eat
it greedily.
We were exceedingly tired and weak, having had
nothing to cat since we left Benáres but a small twist
of bread between us three. It was, therefore, quite
delightful to find ourselves in a most comfortable bun-
SCHOOL AT ALLAHABAD.
103
galow, bed-rooms, dressing-rooms, and bath, all ready
for us. The khitmadgars brought tea immediately, and
our considerate host never showed himself, but waited
until, after some hours' rest, Miss M. and I thought
proper to enter the drawing-room. We found a fire.
most comfortable. C. and Mr. Woodcock settled that
we should remain here the night and overtake our
palkís, by means of a horse-dák, to-morrow.
It was a
great pity we could not remain longer at Allahabad,
for it is a very interesting missionary station, a branch
of the American Presbyterian mission being established
here. The Government school (of which Mr. Wood-
cock, much against his conscience, as he says, was a
committee-man) has been lately transferred to the
charge of the mission, under whom it prospers greatly.
The senior class, when examined the other day, after
being only two months under Christian instruction,
showed an excellent knowledge of the meaning of the
first Chapter of St. John. The female school for
orphans, under the same missionaries, is also very use-
ful; they receive a higher kind of education than at
the Church Missionary School at Benáres.
There is a regular Hindustaní Presbyterian Church
here. Mr. Woodcock said he thought an English edu-
cation the only means of really educating the natives,
but that when that was given to the total neglect of
the native languages (as it is in many cases), it in a
great measure frustrates its own end, by incapacitating
the scholar from communicating his knowledge freely
to his countrymen. I remember Mr. Smith of the.
Assembly Institution told me that the boys write better
essays in English than in Bengálí, although the Ben-
gálí is carefully taught in the Free Church Institution;
I must find out if this is the case in Government
schools. Of course giving a man a thoroughly foreign
education, without a simultaneous one in his mother-
tongue, only isolates him from his countrymen. We
agreed that the great fault of the Benáres Free School
is, that English is not taught to all.
It can hardly be expected to Christianize the pupils
}
104
EXAMINATION PAPERS AT BENARES.
when many of them are taught almost exclusively from
Muhammadan books. I forgot to mention that Mr.
Sandberg sent us the examination papers of the four
best pupils. I had only time to read those on theology.
This was rather a misnomer, for the questions were
wholly on Scripture history, and not on doctrine, except
some proving the divinity of our Lord; but there was
not a word on the state of man by nature, of sin, of
grace, or of the way of salvation. The answers showed
a thorough acquaintance with Scripture history, but
were by no means remarkable productions for lads of
sixteen to eighteen. Each had also written a short
essay on the Evidences of Christianity: one was a brief
clear summary, but not I thought so clever as that of
one of his companions, who entered more fully into
some points and wrote more warmly, and in better
English, though his essay was by no means so com-
plete as the first; but all four, by the sameness of
arrangement, and even by the exact similarity of phrase,
showed that their essays were the result of memory,
and derived either from one particular book, or else
from a lecture. Many phrases I recognized, I think,
as being in Bishop Tomline's "Introduction."
Thursday, 28th.-Greatly refreshed by the rest, we
took leave of our kind and hospitable host, who treated
us as if we had been old and dear friends. We had a
very comfortable palkígárí with one horse, which was
changed every six miles, or thereabouts. It was not
too hot, and we enjoyed our drive very much.
We again met numerous Afgháns, with their long
strings of camels, some of them loaded with assafoetida.
The oxen in this part of the country are magnificent;
in many of the carts five are used at once. We also
saw some lovely birds, such as kingfishers, and quan-
tities of yellow thistles, all of which, on a fine, clear,
cool day, with a pretty country to drive through, were
pleasant to behold. C. gave some oranges to a respect-
able old man at one of the stations, who jumped off his
horse (the usual mark of respect with natives), and then
told him the cause of the journey he was making, which
A BRIDE- -WALLED VILLAGES.
105
was a dispute with an obstinate neighbour, about a piece
of land, and as his stiff-necked opponent would not abide
by the decision of the village Pancháyat (court of five
arbitrators), our old friend was going to place the matter
in the hands of the Zillah judge.
We passed several camps to-day and yesterday, and
amongst them that of the 62nd Native Infantry. A
Sepáhi camp is much more picturesque than an European
camp, on account of the shape of the tents and the
pleasing groups. We reached Arampúr Bungalow at
half-past ten. We have two meals a day, one in the
palkí of bread or biscuit, and some milk (if we can get
it), and another somewhat more solid, at a bungalow.
Chapatis form the chief food of the people in this part
of India; rice is but little used. The wheat crops are
now about a foot high, rather different from the state
of things in England at this season. They sow about
the same time, in November, after the rains. We left
Arampúr at midnight, and stopped the next day at
Kalianpúr. While sitting over our tea and curry, C.
and Miss M. suddenly flew to different doors of the
Bungalow, and left me wondering what was the matter.
They had heard a most hideous bellowing, for no other
name could be given it, but found it was a bride, who,
on being taken home to her husband's house, thought
proper to make this extraordinary uproar, from a mis-
taken sense of decorum.
Do you remember the Scripture expression of “walled
villages," a thing unkown to us! Here we meet with
them constantly, and often all that is to be seen of a
village by the road-side, is a long mud wall. Many,
however (I suppose modern ones), are quite open, while
the growth and size of the trees show that however the
country may have been troubled by dacoits (robbers), it
is long since an invading army has laid it waste, or
reduced its groves to the condition of most of those of
Northern Germany. The contrast between the two
struck me forcibly. This country is generally well
wooded, and many of the trees, especially the magnifi-
cent tamarind and the palms, are of great beauty.
F 3
106
CAWNPUR; PROPAGATION SOCIETY MISSION.
Bániáns are much rarer than in Bengal. There are
large crops of dâl, a kind of vetch (the "pulse" of
Daniel and his companions) much eaten by the natives,
and also of the oil-plant; so that the landscape is en-
livened by the same sheets of brilliant yellow which
we used to admire so much near Dresden. The villages
are remarkably clean, the raised places in front of the
doors where the inhabitants chiefly sit are always swept,
and poor as the huts are they do not look squalid.
Friday, January 29th.-We passed a temple with a
large picture of Hanumán, the monkey deity, on the
outer wall. It was much colder to-day. We did not
reach Cawnpúr until ten at night, and then, owing to
some mistake about a note, C. went over to Captain
Troup's, while Miss M. and I sat in the palkí, and after-
wards in the verandah of the Dâk bungalow, where we
kept ourselves warm with mirth. At last C. returned
with Major Troup's palkígárí, in which we drove to
Mr. Speirs, through most curious ravines, haunted by
jackalls. In our way we saw a wolf at the entry of the
town. Mr. Speirs got up and gave us tea and mutton-
chops. C. and I were lodged in a large tent: the first
time I have slept in one. It was a double poled tent,
with separate divisions for dressing and bath-rooms;
but the cold was excessive at night.
Saturday, January 30th.-We were introduced to our
hostess and her sister, Miss P., the sweetest girl I have
seen since I left home. Mrs. Wylie had given me a
letter to her; and we found her not only decidedly
pious, but a zealous Free Churchwoman; and, to my
great joy, she knew many very dear to me in Scotland.
They took us after breakfast to see the Propagation
Society Mission, that is, the female school belonging to
it. It was founded after the dreadful famine of 1837,
and contains about sixty orphan girls, who are instructed
in English and Hindustani; but receive a very limited
education, consisting chiefly of Scripture knowledge
and a little geography. Some of them speak a little
Hindui as well, and a few can read the three languages.
Only two hours a day are devoted to study, the rest of
PROPAGATION SOCIETY-FEMALE SCHOOL.
107
their time is spent in fancy and plain work for sale, and
in domestic duties, for they do everything for them-
selves except washing their clothes: most of them are
nearly grown up. We saw their work, and heard them
sing a Hindustaní and an English hymn. They were
all sitting on the floor in a large hall supported by
pillars. Here they sleep; in the next room are their
dining-tables, little benches six inches high and as many
wide; each girl has a brass plate and lotá or drinking
cup. They grind their own meal and live on chapátís,
except in the hot weather, when they get a little rice,
as chapátís alone are too heating.
I
We saw Mr. and Mrs. Perkins, who are at the head
of this mission, and a fine boy of theirs of eleven years
of age, as healthy and ruddy as possible, though he has
never left India. Mr. Perkins had a quiet, subdued,
meek manner, and seems devoted to his labour.
believe him to be one of the excellent of the carth.
May God bless and prosper him and his wife in bringing
many souls to Christ! The school, however, reminded
me too much of an English village school, where work
is the grand thing in education, and faultless stitching
is raised to the rank of a virtue
C. en-
Sunday, January 31st.-All the party, except myself,
went to church, and heard a very bad sermon.
deavoured to persuade our friends that it was wrong to
attend a minister who preached false doctrine-a thing
most palpable and obvious, one would think, did we not
see such numbers of sensible people who think the mere
act of going to church a profitable one, no matter what
they hear.
After dinner I read a very interesting account of the
American Presbyterian Missions at Loodiana and Alla-
habad. Miss Pringle told me that she communicated
at the latter place with the native church: and, although
the service was in Hindustaní, yet it was a very delight-
ful one, as she could just follow the general meaning.
I also read some of Henry Martyn's Letters and
Journal, describing his residence in Cawnpore now
nearly forty years ago. This profitable book is doubly
J
108
RETURN OF A FAITHFUL SERVANT.
interesting when read on the spot where the letters
were written.
Monday, February 1st, 1847.-C. went with Major
Troup to choose a horse. My husband's faithful Sáis
Baedúllah, who was with him throughout the diasasters
in Afghánistán, suddenly made his appearance on Satur-
day, the morning after our arrival. He is a tall, power-
ful man, with rather a pensive expression. When he
saw his old master, he ran up to him and embraced his
thigh, the mark of respect and affection paid by disciples
to their spiritual guides. C. squeezed his shoulder,
patted him on the cheek, and said, "Welcome, my
friend!" and the tears stood in the faithful man's eyes.
C. then brought him to me.
While at Benáres, a man of Sikh parentage, named
Benási Sing, was introduced to my husband by Mr.
Leupolt, the missionary. He has the highest testi-
monials as a commissariat gomáshta (agent); and it
seems, that having known C. at Kabûl, he was desirous
of entering his service. He has been attending the
preaching of the missionaries for the last three years,
at first as a most zealous opponent, always disputing
with them, and attempting to confute their arguments
and doctrines; but latterly he has gradually softened,
and now no longer denies the truth of the Scriptures.
He told C. that one reason why he wished to come
to him was, that he might hear his opinion of "Isá
Masih (Jesus the Messiah). May he soon learn to
know Him, as his Redeemer from all iniquity—“ his
Lord and his God!" Benási Sing is to accompany
Jacob from Allahábad.
Packed; and after dinner had to wait some time as
they had sent no bearers for Miss M. After family
worship we started about ten P.M. It was exceedingly
cold. We arrived at Bungalow about half-past
eight A.M. Just after starting again, we passed divers
mosques, a tomb shaded by two palm trees, and a very
pretty Hindu temple; they are generally more pointed
than Muhammadan buildings. The people are much
better, and more gaily clothed, than in Bengal; most
FEMALE ORNAMENTS ON THE TOES.
109
of them have wadded jackets or pelisses, or a good
rezai (quilt) to wrap round them. Some of the men
wear yellow wadded trousers nearly tight; and many
carry arms. Most of the travellers have swords, and
one passed us with a musket in a case of scarlet cloth.
We have left behind us all the steep-roofed cottages of
the lower country. The women fix silver ornaments
like stars between their toes, which I suppose is the
Hindu version of Il faut souffrir pour être belle. It is
difficult to give an idea of the picturesque effect of many
things that are very uninteresting on paper; for instance,
the stately domes of Muhammadan tombs, rising in
the midst of the vast plains, impress the mind with an
indescribable feeling of solemnity; then an Afghán
passes, seated on his camel, and looking like a living
representation of Jacob or Isaac; or, late in the even-
ing, in going through a village, we behold a group
seated round a fire on one of the raised platforms
under a tree, which are so common here, and the
flickering light on their many-coloured garments forms
a picture that one would like to draw.
Tuesday Evening.—We had a lovely sunset; a grey
sky with a fiery sun underneath it, that looked like a
molten ruby.
Wednesday, February 3rd.—We passed Bewár Bun-
galow without stopping, as it was too early in the
morning, and we were an immense distance from
Shekoábád, the bungalows here being about forty miles
apart, we determined on stopping at Mainpúrí, and
breakfasting with the Unwins. We did so, and had a
most cordial welcome from them; they pressed us to
stay the day, but that was not possible. It was quite
pleasant to find that their nice little girl could only
speak English. She has a European nursery-maid.
Children learn so much evil, and are so much out of
their mother's control when they speak Hindustaní,
which they generally do more fluently than English,
and often to the exclusion of it, that I wonder how any
ladies can neglect this point. We started again at two
P.M., and did not find it at all warm-on the contrary
110
SHEKOABAD.
the sharp cutting wind made a cloak needful. Saw
some native palkis, pretty gaudy things which I must
draw for you. We reached Shekoábád late that evening
-stopped only long enough to take tea and bestow a
candle, a fowl, and a loaf, on two Queen's officers who
were in the other half of the bungalow. Passed a
curious Faqír's tomb, a hexagon building connected
with a similar one, I suppose to his wife, by a bridge.
The effect was very pleasing; both buildings were sur-
rounded by water.
111
CHAPTER IV.
First View of Agra-The Taj by Moonlight-Akbar's Tomb-Esthetic
Religion-Chaplain-Baptist Chapel-The Fort and Mullah-Sikhs-
Arsenal-A Temperance Serjeant-Mr. Pfander-The Sabbath-
Lutheran Missionaries-The Convent-Alipur-Dehli-Old King's
Palace-Italian Artists-Moti Musjid-Gardens-Jamma Musjid-
-Pigeons-Nadir Shah-Safdar Jang's Tomb-Architecture-Kutab
-Legend of Pithor-a-Sing's Daughter-Moghuls-Muhammad Toglak
-Nizam ud Din's Well-Arab Serai-Shrine-Tombs-Well-Ruins
Humaiun's Tomb-Marriage Procession-Cow killed-A Brahman's
Opinion of Romanism Cantonments - Dulu Karnal Dancing
Snakes - Beggar on Horseback-Amballa-Thief Hanging-Sirhind
-Loodiana-American Mission.
AGRA, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 4TH, 1847.-It was
a cold clear day, like a March morning in England,
when we approached Agra; even the cattle were all
clothed, and I was amused at the sight of a poor little
calf in rags. Suddenly, about five miles from Agra,
C. cried out that the Táj was in sight, and there, in the
midst of the barren, rugged country, with nothing but
tufts of dry grass and thistles to adorn the sandy plains
and stony ravines, appeared the Táj like a fairy palace
in a desert, its dazzling white dome and minarets bathed
in sunlight. The effect was magical. It was often
hidden as we pursued our way, but at each new vista
it seemed more beautiful. Buildings, some in ruins,
some perfect, the remains of the age when the Muham-
madan power had reached its height in the person of
Akbar, when Akbarabad (the Muhammadan name for
Agra) grew in beauty and magnificence under the eye
of her imperial founder, and when the great nobles of
112
AGRA-THE TAJ BY MOONLIGHT.
the Court vied with each other, as much in the splen-
dour of their tombs as in their palaces. On the right,
close to the rough bridge of boats, we saw the Mauso-
leum of Itimah-u-Doulah, the Vazir of Shah Jehán.
We crossed the Jamna and proceeded to Mr. Edmon-
stone's house. A turn in the road showed us the Palki
and Banghy Bardárs (Pittarreh carriers) in front: they
formed a very gay procession, with the yellow and pink
covers of the Pitarrehs, the yellow or green jackets, and
red turbans of the men. We passed the most beautiful
snow-white cow I ever saw. She was fully sixteen
hands high, and was led by three men, being, I conclude
as vicious as she was beautiful. Her stately walk,
beautiful high caste head, and large black eyes, re-
minded one of the milk-white heifers that the Greeks
offered to their gods. Mr. and Mrs. E. were at the
wedding of Major H. G.; when they returned we found
a most pleasing and hospitable host and hostess. After
dinner they took us to see the Taj by moonlight. We
alighted at a magnificent gateway and beheld this
unequalled building at the end of an avenue of cypresses.
The walk from the gate to the tomb is a quarter of a
mile long. The Táj stands in a garden enclosed by a
quadrangular wall of red stone.
Opposite the gateway
is a quadrangle of white marble, from the four corners
of which spring snow-white minarets, and in the centre,
raised on a stately terrace, is the pure noble dome of
the Táj itself. At the back runs a terrace overlooking
the Jamna-on either hand is a fine mosque of red
stone, but no description can give any idea of the
wondrous beauty of this matchless monument. No
building that I have ever seen comes near it except the
Cathdral of Cologne. St. Peter's is not to be named
in the same breath as regards the exterior. Its exqui-
site symmetry, its spotless colour, looking as if it were
carved in snow, and its lovely situation (sccluded in
the midst of a stately garden, full of trees, flowers,
fountains, and paved walks), make the Táj more like a
vision of beauty than a reality. The sight of it makes
one's chest expand and one's heart swell: it almost lifts
THE TOMB OF AKBAR THE GREAT.
113
one off the earth. C. put his plaid on the steps of the
beautiful summer-house, on the right hand side of the
Táj, and there I sat to feast my eyes by gazing on it.
It was nearly midnight when we reached home.
Friday, February 5th. At four P.M. drove to
Sekandra, where the Church Missionary Society have
a school for orphans of both sexes. We saw only that
for girls: they were busily employed in works of
different kinds, knitting and plaiting straw, but there
was no teacher present. The boys work at a printing-
press. I sketched the gateway of red stone, roofed with
deep, blue, green, and gold coloured tiles, which now
forms part of the Missionary's dwelling, and we then
went to Akbar's Tomb. The entrance is by a magni-
cent gateway of red stone, inlaid with white marble and
stones of various colours in complicated patterns, but
disfigured by enormous painted flowers in imitation of
Mosaic, with white minarets at each corner. There are
three similar buildings at the other side of the garden,
only they serve as alcoves instead of gateways. The
lattice work of the garden wall which connects them is
most beautiful and varied, though much of it is broken,
and the arches themselves partly in ruins. From the
entrance a paved walk leads to the tomb itself, a stu-
pendous pile consisting of three quadrangular terraces
of red stone, surmounted by a fourth of white marble.
On what may be called the ground-floor, are chambers
containing the tombs of Akbar's daughters, and other
members of his family, of white marble, with inscrip-
tions and carvings in bas relief, and adorned with beau-
tiful mosaic of pietra dura. There were flowers lying
on most of thein. In a vault beneath is the sarcopha-
gus, containing the mortal remains of Akbar the Great.
A rich covering was spread over it, on which flowers
were strewn, and above it hangs a lamp.
In all these mausoleums the real tombs are below,
while the monument, which is a fac simile of the for-
mer, is in the upper part of the building. There is a
minaret at each corner of every terrace, and every part
is admirably carved. The greatest beauty of the edifice
111
THE TAJ BY DAY.
is the uppermost story, which is of the purest marble,
surrounded by arcades, which I suppose are nearly
unequalled in the world: the outer wall is a marble
lattice of the most delicate open work, although an inch
an a half in thickness. Each division is of a different
pattern, and the pillars and arches are adorned with
arabesques and inscriptions in bas relief. The pavement
of the court, which is surrounded by this colonnade, is
the only coloured part about it-it is composed of
different marbles, and is open to the sky. The monu-
ment is in the centre, with a font-shaped stand for
holding a light at the head of it; both are of white
marble, and remarkable for their elegance. The tomb
is inlaid with the ninety-nine names of the Most High
(as the King, the most Merciful, the Compassionate,
the Omnipotent) in black marble; surely a more suit-
able inscription in the presence of death than fulsome
panegyrics on the departed. No letters are so graceful
as the Arabic, so that they form a beautiful ornament
wherever they are used. Although exposed to sun and
rain the whole is as fresh and unspotted as if just com-
pleted: never was a more beautiful mausoleum erected;
the Táj alone excepted. From every terrace there is
an extended prospect, and the whole building stands
like the Táj in a garden of flowers. These stately
tombs illustrate the description in Isaiah, xiv. 18, of
the Kings of the Nations, lying "in glory-every one
in his own house."
Saturday, February 5th.-Mrs. E., Miss M., and I
drove to see the Táj, which is as beautiful by daylight
as by the moonbeams. I sketched it from the gateway:
a lovely vista. Between the two paved raised walks,
bordered by cypresses, is a channel of water, with
fountains. At the back of the cypresses are beds of
flowers in full beauty, the different plots being divided
by stone borders of fantastic patterns, the regularity of
which connect the garden more completely with the
building; and behind these again are broad, paved
walks, where we enjoyed the most refreshing shelter
from the noonday sun. I give up in despair all hopes
MUMTAZ BEGUM'S TOMB.
115
of conveying any adequate idea of the beauty of the
architecture, of the inlaid marble terraces, the fine old
trees, the delightful verdure, and above all, of the chaste
ursullied majesty of the dome itself. In a vault beneath
lics Múmtáz Begum, and on her right a loftier and
larger tomb to her husband Shah Jchán. Above, the
mausoleum consists of a glorious vault, in the centre of
which stands her monument, with his in the same
position as below. Each tomb is of the usual simple
form-a narrow raised parallelogram, perfectly plain,
not unlike what Scipio's tomb would be without the
cornice, and inlaid like the whole of the interior with
flowers of bloodstone, lapis-lazuli, agates, and other
precious stones, forming the most beautiful mosaic.
Over the tomb hangs an ostrich egg. Both monu-
ments had flowers laid on them, and are surrounded by
an octagonal screen of the most lovely fairy-like open
work. The walls are, as it were, panelled with bas-
reliefs of tulips and other flowers, in white marble, sur-
mounted by arabesques in costly mosaic, and around
the dome are four beautiful apartments embellished with
no less carc. Such is the perfect art manifested through-
out, that although every part is, when closely viewed,
brilliant with colour, and though the exterior is adorned
with inscriptions from the Kurán, in black marble letters
of colossal size, yet this in no way mars the general
effect of the whole building as one of dazzling whiteness,
while it relieves the eye when near from the tedium of
travelling over unbroken heights and depths of, as it
were, unvaried snow. How strange it is that the archi-
tects of most of the finest buildings in the world remain
unknown!
We visited one of the side mosques, which is built of
red stone inlaid with white, and stands on a lower ele-
vation than the Táj, and then returned to the gateway,
just as my husband arrived with Mr. Pfander, the
German Church Missionary, a short, stout man with a
most benevolent expression, who has distinguished him-
self greatly by his controversial writings against Muham-
madanism, especially the "Mizán ul Haq," which was
116
ESTIETIC RELIGION.
the means of enlightening Músá and Ibrálím. I went
back to the Táj with them. We met some Panjábis,
very fine looking men (one of them with bright crimson
trousers, small pink turban, and white chaddah), who
were gratified by our asking them to enter with us.
They all made salám to the tomb of Múmtáz Begum
and her imperial husband. When they had departed,
C. sang a verse to try the echo, the most beautiful Í
ever heard. It is so perfect that it gives the idea of a
choir of spirits in the air.
We then went to the terrace at the back of the Táj,
to enjoy the view of the noble river flowing beneath,
and of the picturesque city, embosomed in trees beyond.
Some say, I believe on very slight grounds, that it was
the intention of Shah Jehán to erect a similar mausoleum
for himself on the opposite bank of the river, and to
connect the two by a bridge of white marble; but one
cannot regret that he did not exccute this plan, for one
feels that any addition to the Táj would be a superfluity.
The gateway would be considered a most magnificent
work anywhere else, but here it is a mere appendage;
it is chiefly red, inlaid with white. I do not think an
unprejudiced person could, after visiting the Táj, attach
any value to the kind of religious feeling which is pro-
duced by external objects affecting the senses.
Here a
Muhammadan building excites in the highest degree
those emotions of rapture which, by a natural transition,
melt into the spurious poetic devotion which is aroused
by the "long-drawn aisles" and "dim religious light"
of an ancient cathedral: this shows that these feelings
are purely natural. A heathen can feel them-a Mu-
hammadan architect or an infidel poct can excite them;
therefore they have no claim to be considered as Chris-
tian or as religious feelings at all, in any other sense
than as springing from those tendencies to wonder and
reverence, which are implanted in every one who has a
heart. Rightly did our Presbyterian forefathers act in
stripping the worship of God of all that could delude.
the worshipper, by exciting those poetic emotions which.
too often pass current, with those who experience them,
NATIVE CHRISTIANS IN AGRA.
117
for the true devotion of the heart to that God who
"dwelleth not in temples made with hands." How
would a woman value that love, or a friend that friend-
ship, which owed its origin, and depended for its
existence on the magnificence of an apartment, or the
beauty of the scenery in which they dwell? How
can we imagine, then, that this spurious kind of de-
votion is acceptable to Him who searcheth the heart,
and who sees that it exists so often in souls alienated
from Him, and "enemies in their mind by wicked
works?"
((
We drove towards the tomb of Itimah-u-Doulah,
which is on the other side of the river. Mr. Pfander
told us a good deal about the mission here. He is at
the head of the church of which the venerable Musal-
man convert Abdúl Masih* formerly had the care, but
of which only a few of the original members now re-
main at Agra, as after the death of that true Servant
of Christ" they were left without a pastor for nine
years. The number of Christians in communion with the
missionaries of the Church of England is about 300,
including the orphans. There are about sixty Christian
families. The American Presbyterians have lately esta-
blished a mission here, but both ministers are now
absent, and the Baptist labour on the opposite side of
the city. Mr. Pfander and his colleagues have lately
been very successful in the neighbouring villages, having
recently received an addition of about fifty converts.
The Romanists have had a small native church here
since the days of Akbar, but they make no new con-
verts, except among Europeans and half-castes. They
are building a fine cathedral. The priests are chiefly
Italians; they do not interfere with the Protestant
missionaries, though they always laugh and sncer when
they meet any of them preaching. All the Protestant
mission have day-schools, but Mr. Pfander complains
sadly of the want of proper teachers. Very few persons
of high caste have become converts up the country, for
*Servant of Christ.
1
118
TOMB OF ITIMAH-U-DOULAH.
here all the native prejudices remain in much greater
vigour than in Calcutta, neither have the missionaries.
laboured so long.
Mr. Pfander thinks that one great reason why so few
Muhammadans have been converted is, that they are
only just beginning to find out that they are not the
first people in Asia in point of science and learning,-
a hard lesson for them to learn after their pre-eminence
had been so long undisputed; but he thinks the fields.
are beginning to ripen for the harvest, although they
may be said to be more backward in Agra than in
Calcutta.
We reached the tomb of Itimah-u-Doulah, and pass-
ing through a small garden, came to a slope of variegated
marbles, over which a stream used to flow into the foun-
tain beneath. There is a beautiful reservoir in front of
the tomb on the terrace above. This mausoleum is
smaller, but more elaborately adorned with painting
than either of those we have seen. The mosaics have
been in a great degree destroyed by the Mahrattas, who
picked out the beautiful bloodstones and agates of which
they were composed. On the ground-floor are the
tombs of the Vazír and his wife in the centre apart-
ment, the ceilings and walls of which were formerly
resplendent with gold and richly-coloured arabesques:
four or more apartments, similarly adorned, and each
containing one or two tombs of other members of their
family, surround it. The hall or terrace above has one
of the most beautiful pavements I ever saw, of white
marble, inlaid with a rich and grand arabesque of
very large size in coloured stones, while the screen
which surrounds it rivals that of the Táj in beauty.
The minarets are peculiarly beautiful, and from one of
them we enjoyed a lovely view of the majestic Táj on
one hand, of Akbar's tomb, the fort, the river, the Motí
Masjid, and the innumerable tombs and ruins in the
neighbourhood of the town, on the other.
Sunday, February 7th, 1849.-C. heard a very good
sermon from the chaplain, Mr. Norgate. There is another
BAPTIST CHURCH.
119
good chaplain here, and a third clergyman, who gives no
sermon on Sacrament Sunday, and, when he does
preach, follows the practice of a chaplain at * * * who
boasted that he could " polish you off a sermon in
twelve minutes."
The missionaries preach only in Hindustaní, with the
exception of the Baptist missionary, who has a small
chapel close to where we were. We were informed
none but karánís, i. e., clerks, went there; but this did
not frighten us away. The service began at half-past
six. Seeing the table prepared for the Communion, C.
went to the vestry to inquire if we could partake of it.
He explained to the missionary who we were, that I
was a member of the Frce Kirk, and Miss M. of the
Church of England. Mr. Lish, the minister, who is an
East Indian, said that usually they required three or
four days' notice, that they might learn something of
the character of the parties wishing to communicate ;
but that he would consult with his elder, Mr. Frazer
(a Presbyterian); and they both came to the conclu-
sion, that as we were travellers, and had so recently
communicated with the Free Church in Calcutta, there
could be no objection. Mr. Lish preached an excellent
discourse on (C
Behold, I lay in Zion a chief corner
stone," &c. He then informed the congregation who
we were, and where we were going; mentioned our
wish to partake of the Lord's Supper with them; and,
in one of the prayers during the Sacrament, implored
the Divine blessings specially on us, prayed for the
furtherance of our journcy, and for our future reunion
with those present before the Throne of God. It was
such a simple Scriptural way of receiving strangers,
you could fancy Titus and Timothy acting thus.
the conclusion of the service, Mr. Lish took his seat at
the table, and, after prayer (during which the congre-
gation knelt) we resumed our seats, and the bread was
distributed by an elder. Mr. Lish prayed again. and
the cup was brought round; and, after a concluding
prayer, we ended by singing my favourite fifteenth
doxology :
At
120
CONVERTS-FORT AT AGRA.
May the grace of Christ our Saviour,
And the Father's boundless love,
With the Holy Spirit's favour,
Rest upon us from above!
May we now abide in union,
With each other and the Lord,
And enjoy in sweet communion,
Joys which earth cannot afford."
The chapel was well filled; but no one looked like
a gentleman except one officer, who communicated.
Whenever I hear that the rich go to one preacher, and
the poor to another, I conclude that the latter is the
most evangelical and the best minister. A native
woman partook of the Sacrament. After the service,
Mr. Lish told us that the lives of the converts are
generally very satisfactory; they have no very great
success, but enough to encourage them and make them
grateful. We did not return until past eight, and
found our hosts had very kindly waited dinner for us.
:
Monday, February 8th.-Drove to the fort, which is
very fine it was taken by Lord Lake from the Mahrattas
at the beginning of this century. We drove through
three courts, and alighted at a flight of steps. Passing
through a handsome gateway, we found ourselves in the
court of the Motí Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, which is
worthy of its name. This is surrounded by colonnades
of white marble, with a tank in the middle: the mosque
itself occupies the fourth side of the square. It is
raised above the level of the court, and is paved with
huge slabs of white marble, each of which is inlaid with
a slender line, like the outline of a pointed window,
and destined for one worshipper. The mosque is open
to the court, and composed of three aisles, running
parallel to the spectator's eye, the contrary way to those
of our churches. There are of course three domes ;
and in the interior is a flight of four or five steps of
white marble, on the top of which the mullah sits to
read and expound the law, while the sovereign and his
court meekly sit on the floor. At either end are marble
lattices delicately carved, behind which the ladies of the
harem could see and hear without being seen.
PANJABIS-RAJA II LAL SING.
121
We ascended the roof under the guidance of a cour-
teous mullah, and risked our precious persons, as he daily
risks his, by scrambling up a rude ladder to one of the
minarets, from whence we had a bird's eye view of the
fort, and also of the ever-beautiful Táj, and the other
adornments of the city. The said mullah, instead of
being a portly man in white, as one fancies all mullahs
ought to be, was dressed in a blue garment, lined with
orange and trimmed at the sleeves with white fur; a
yellow rezai with red flowers, lined with blue, with a
crimsom border to the lining, was wrapped round the
upper part of his body. He had a small white turban;
but told us when he was officiating he always wore a
white robe.
In front of the mosque is a long inscription in
colossal Arabic letters of black marble. We next
went to the palace, which is also within the fort. In
the little garden we met some Penjábis, attendants on
Rájáh Lal Sing, who is immured here. They were
remarkably fine-looking men, both in feature and height,
and very courteous and respectful in manner.
C. com-
plimented them on their fidelity to their chief, which
delighted them greatly, so that they burst out into a
perfect chorus of words, patted and stroked him; and,
while he was showing them my opera-glass, through
which they were all eager to look, one of them continued
stroking him on the back as if he had been some soft
furry crcature. They stared at Miss M. and me; and
one, an old man with a long grey beard, came round to
have a better view at us.
After seeing the Diwán-í-Khás, or Hall of Nobles,
where the sovereign used to hold his Darbár, C. invited
them to accompany us into the vaults. We first saw
the Shish-Mahál, or looking-glass palace, a beautiful
hall, the walls of which are covered with thousands of
little mirrors with silver flowers embossed on them,
while every here and there a portion of blue and gold
or crimson and gold is introduced-the mirror part
forming the ground of the flowers. Much is broken
and defaced, but enough remains to give one an idea of
VOL. I.
G
122
VAULTS OF THE PALACE.
the brilliant effect it must have had when lighted up.
Opposite the entrance of the principal hall is a cascade,
or rather a place in the wall, over which a cascade used
to flow into a deep bath beneath. Behind the cascade
are double rows of niches, wherein lamps used to be
placed-imagine how pretty it must have looked.
We then descended into a narrow passage, with a
torch bearer for our guide, and climbing up to a low
archway, about four feet from the ground, we jumped
down on the other side into a vaulted apartment, very
much like one of the Halls of the Inquisition. Here
any of the hapless women of the harem, who incurred
the suspicion or dipleasure of her lord, was hung upon
a black beam which still traverses the apartment, and
when life was extinct, the once admired form was cut
down and suffered to drop into a deep well beneath,
from whence it floated into the Jamna. The well is
now nearly choked up, and the air was poisoned with
the smell of the bats who infest the place-fit emblems
of the evil deeds committed there. The very Sikhs
seemed to look with pity on a spot whence so many
souls have parted in anguish for a land of darkness.
After all, these deeds of cruelty do not shock one so
much when resulting from human passion as when com-
mitted under pretext of doing either God or man service,
as in those dark places of the earth, the Inquisitions at
Venice and elsewhere.
On emerging we were led through many passages
where the ladies used to play at hide and seek, and which
were probably also used for keeping the royal treasures.
These passages led to half dark apartments, where the
inmates of the Zenáná bathed in the heats of summer.
We then re-ascended to the upper chambers, of which
it is vain to attempt any description. They are realiza-
tions of the "Arabian Nights." There are innumerable
halls and chambers, the former open on three sides, and
supported on beautiful pillars, richly inlaid with Floren-
tine mosaic; the walls are covered with flowers and
arabesques painted on the marble, in a kind of raised
lacquer, with much gilding; they are also panelled with
PALACE COURTS.
123
flowers in bas-relief, among which the lily is conspi-
cuous, probably introduced here, and also in the Táj and
the Motí Musjíd, by the Italian artist, out of devotion
to the Virgin. Many of these halls have cascades, baths,
or fountains, paved with mosaic, or little marble water-
courses running through them. There are numberless
smaller rooms for sleeping apartments, and for the
retainers of the Court; and terraces on the roof, shaded
by marble lattices of the most delicate open-work, used
during the hot nights of summer.
From the marble balcony of a beautiful projecting
circular apartment, there is a lovely view of the city,
interspersed with trees, of the noble river, and of all
the finest buildings in the neighbourhood. Many of
these are in ruins, but we were told that the remains
of subterranean passages still exist, by which the ladies
of the Royal Zenáná might visit those of all the prin-
cipal nobles, whenever they pleased. At the top of
another terrace is a marble seat, with very high steps
to it, from the Palace Court below. Here the Vazír
sat, and administered justice or injustice, "according
to faculty," or reviewed troops. Probably it was from
such a seat that the king in the Arabian tales beheld
his daughter's contest with the magician, when she
transformed herself into a cock, and ate up her anta-
gonist in the shape of pomegranate seeds.
We saw a
small praying place for the inferior women servants,
and lastly a miniature Motí Masjid of white marble
with three domes, for the great ladies or Begums (pray
pronounce bégoom). Here one of our attendants was
sharply reprimanded by a brother Mussulman for daring
to enter the house of prayer with his shoes on. They
expect nothing better from us, but condemn it in each
other.
We next went to see the Díwán-i-Am, or Common
Hall (you may translate it Court of Common Pleas)
where, in a raised chamber in the wall, about ten feet
from the ground, the Sovereign gave audience to his
poor liege men. It is now approached by a temporary
flight of steps on each side, and occupied by a marble
& 2
?
124
SOMNATH GATES.
sofa and two arm chairs, inlaid with colours, and partly
gilt, a present from some neighbouring Rajah to Lord
Ellenborough, who held a mock regal court here on his
return from the north-west frontier, and had the bad
taste to put up his arms over those of the Company,
and to insert them in some of the Palace windows, just
as a private would scrawl his name in charcoal on the
walls! and with as much right!
This hall is now the armoury, and at one end are the
notorious Somnath gates; they are of sandal wood, and
must have been beautiful specimens of carving before
they were so much defaced. Two Sikhs, one of them
a perfect model for a painter, with bare arms and
enveloped in a huge rezai (quilt), followed us every-
where, and with the chaprásís and others, inspected
everything with the greatest attention, and listened
with much interest to C.'s account of the newly in-
vented gun-cotton; our Sikh friend with the quilt
especially seemed to think the hiqmats, or tricks of
science, of the Sahib Lóg perfectly astonishing.
Leaving the arsenal, C. stopped to speak to an old
sergeant of horse artillery, who remarked that when
he entered the army a man was punished if he did not
take his allowance of spirits-it was called contempt of
the Company! "We were first taught to drink, sir,"
said he, "and then punished for being drunkards!"
A man is now allowed money instead of spirits, if he
prefers it. The sergeant gave it as his decided opinion,
that in no case whatever do men require strong drink,
except for hospital purposes; under the very hardest
work they are better and stronger with nothing but
water. On our way home we stopped at the Jamma
Masjid, which is very large, with a fine tank in the
middle of the court; but being built of red sandstone,
which is apt to crumble, part of the colonnade has
fallen down, and the whole of the pavement of the
mosque is in course of repair.
Mr. Pfander dined with us: he is from Würtemberg,
where religion has always been more general than in
any other part of the empire; but he said that the great
RELIGION IN GERMANY.
125
improvement in this respect had been of late most
remarkable in Prussia, which some years ago had
become almost entirely infidel. He recommended
"Tholuck's Sermons."
Speaking of the state of religion in Germany led us
to mention the observation of the Sabbath, and we
discovered that Mr. Pfander held the usual German
doctrine, that the fourth Commandment is not binding.
on Christians, but that the first day of the week is to
be observed more as an ordinance of the Church than
for any other reason, all days being alike to Christians.
We had a long discussion on this point, but he took
no notice of the reasons we brought forward for be-
lieving all the commandments of perpetual obligation,
because given by the mouth of God, and written by
His finger on Sinai, as also from the words of our
Lord,- "I am not come to destroy the law, &c." He
fulfilled the ceremonial law, which by its very nature
(being a prophecy in symbols) was incapable of being
fulfilled or realized more than once; but it is impos-
sible so to fulfil the moral law, which is the expression
of the Divine will regarding right and wrong, so as to
destroy its obligations. "Christ was to die, and he
was the end of the moral law for righteousness to all
that believe;" but He established its authority as a
rule of life, Romans iii. 31. The reason given for the
institution of the Sabbath, Gen. ii., still exists, and the
fact that the Sabbath was made for man," shows that
man is to enjoy it until the end of the world; while
the Sabbaths spoken of in Col. ii. 16, are evidently
the Jewish Sabbaths which accompany their feasts,
for the word is never used in the plural without the
article, when it means the weekly Sabbath. In vain
we lent him Haldane's excellent Paper on the Sanc-
tification of the Sabbath, in the third volume of his
Work on the Romans: he returned it the next day,
with a note containing a long quotation from Baum-
garten, in which the latter asserts, that "the rigid
Scottish keeping of the Sabbath is a transgression of
the law!" He quoted a great deal more about our
126
GERMAN MISSIONARIES.
freedom from the command, and yet our obligation to
observe it in a certain degree, which seemed to me very
unsatisfactory and unsupported by Scripture. It makes
one bless His name for having appointed our lot in a
nation which, of all others, acknowledges the Divine
obligation of the Sabbath-day. Do read Haldane's
Paper-it is the best I have seen.
As there are more candidates for Mission work in
Germany than there are in the Church of England, the
latter is glad to avail herself of the services of Lu-
theran Ministers, whom she ordains and adopts as her
own; but devoted as most of them are to their work,
it is surely a matter of some importance that they
believe in consubstantiation, baptismal regeneration
(though not to the Puseyite and Romish extent) and
that they deny the Divine authority of the Christian
Sabbath. These are doctrines held and taught by our
friend Professor Graul, the head of the Mission Insti-
tution at Dresden, and the Divine obligation of the
Sabbath is, I have been informed by Dr. W- g
generally, if not universally, denied even at the Basle
College from whence so many missionaries issue. I
have known some German missionaries (among them
the Rev. Mr. Krückeberg, of the Church Mission, and
Mr. Sternberg) who are thoroughly sound on these
points, and I believe strictly observe the Sabbath; and
the views of others on the Sacraments are often essen-
tially modified by intercourse with their brethren of
different orthodox denominations (for the Church of
England Lutherans are generally remarkable for their
Catholic spirit towards other Christians); but still, the
above are the doctrines to be expected from a Lutheran,
and the Church of England, by adopting the Mis-
sionaries, becomes responsible for the doctrines they
teach.
I may add, that for self-devoted zeal none can sur-
pass the German Missionaries. Many come to the
country (some sent out by Pastor Gossner of Berlin)
without any settled means of support, and if their lives
are spared, continue labouring upon a casual pittance
}
SELF-DENIAL OF MISSIONARIES.
་
127
raised by the sympathy of those Christians who are
aware of their circumstances. A very large proportion
have fallen victims to toils and privations which a better
acquaintance with the climate would have shown them
could not be attempted without throwing away their
lives. For instance, some have essayed to travel on
foot, others to maintain themselves by field labour and
in the burning plains of Bengal; they have denied
themselves the essential luxuries of Phankahs and
Tattís, under the idea that it would be self-indulgent
to use them. In one instance near Calcutta, the lug-
gage-cart of a party of Missionaries stuck in a river.
They harnessed themselves and dragged it through,
an act of amazing temerity in a country where five
minutes' exposure to the sun has sometimes caused
death. In another instance, the wife of an officer,
finding that the newly arrived Missionaries ate no
meat, supplied them from her own farmyard. They
sold the ducks and fowls for the benefit of the Mission;
but she was as determined in her care for them as they
were in self-denial, so she sent them the poultry ready
for table, which obliged them to eat it.
The German Evangelical Mission in Southern India
has twenty-nine male and about sixteen female Mis-
sionaries, and yet the whole expense is only 48887. per
annum, each Missionary taking barely sufficient to live
upon.
Mr. Pfander tells us that one day he was detained in
the city by a storm until it was quite dark; when he
set out he discovered that the Sáís, who ought to have
led the horse, as the carriage (a common Palkígárí)
could not be driven, was moon blind, and could not see
in the least, Mr. Pfander was therefore obliged to lead
the Sáís, who led the horse, and thus they reached
home. Eating goats' liver is said to be a remedy for
moon blindness.
February 9th.-We drove to the house of the R. C.
Bishop to get permission to see the Convent. He was
at dinner, so that I only caught a glimpse of a very fine
beard, as he came out on the terrace to speak to the
128
CONVENT AT AGRA.
gentlemen. He is an Italian, Borghi by name. We
then proceeded to the Convent; where, after waiting
some time in a verandah overlooking a farmyard, with
sundry Palkígárís and some remarkably fine cattle, we
were joined by two nuns robed in black, the elder a
Frenchwoman, the younger Irish; they conducted us
through a very neat garden to the school for Europeans,
some of whom are Protestants! The nuns asserted
they were never interfered with in religious matters,
but I have since had positive proof that (as is very
natural) all means are used by the nuns to influence
their pupils in favour of Popery. Their dormitory was
scrupulously neat and clean; there are about seventeen
nuns of the order of Jesus and Mary, i. e. Jesuits. The
Abbess was absent, having gone to meet four new
English nuns who had just arrived from Europe.
There are about forty European young ladies, who
with the school for natives and for soldiers' children
(both of which we visited) make up about one hundred
children under the exclusive care of the sisterhood.
The native girls make artificial flowers beautifully.
The nun who had charge of the soldiers' children was
a very pleasing little Frenchwoman. They all seemed
very fond of a little orphan of two years old of whom
they have charge. What a comfort to nuns to have
the charge of children! Miss S. spoke to our Irish
conductress about her health, which seemed to suffer
from the confinement of the Convent. She answered
with forced gaiety: "What does it matter? We only
go a little sooner." We all noticed the restless, unsa-
tisfied expression of countenance of these poor prisoners.
Came home; packed and started about seven o'clock.
We now feel quite settled the moment we return to our
pálkís and dák life, it is much more quiet and regular
than when we stop anywhere.
Wednesday, February 10th.-We arrived at Alighar
about nine o'clock. Mr. T., the Commissioner, could
not take us in, his house being turned inside out by
plasterers and painters, but sent us a basket of flowers.
and vegetables to the Dák Bungalow, which is the best
DELHI.
129
we have seen, having been formerly the Commissioner's
kacherí or office. Dr. Paton asked us to luncheon, and
Mrs. Paton sent me a pretty bouquet of the English
flowers of the season. We left Alighar about half-past
six it has a fort which was taken after the whole
grenadier company of one regiment had been swept
:
away.
Thursday, February 11.-Arrived this morning at
Sikandra Bungalow about eight o'clock. The Indian
squirrels, which are very numerous and pretty, are very
small with three black stripes down the back. We
left Sikandra too soon, at half-past five, and reached
Delhi, about thirty-six miles, by three P.M. Finished
our sleep in the compound of the Dák Bungalow, and
then, after partaking of tea made on the top of the
Palkí, Miss M. proceeded to her brother's house, and
we to that of Mr. R., of the Civil Service. Mrs. R. is
not well, but Miss W., her sister, conducted me to a
comfortable tent. On our way hither we passed under
the walls of the Palace of Delhi, with two very fine
gateways. The wall, instead of being a blank, as ours
generally are, is ornamented at the top with a sort of
Vandyk scollop, which improves it greatly. The diffe-
rence in the people as we get up the country is very
remarkable. Here they are a fine athletic race of men,
as tall as Europeans, and much fairer than the Bengális ;
this accounts for the height of the Bengalis Sepáhis,
none of whom are natives of Bengal Proper. Delhi
strikes me as being the finest city we have yet seen.
Benáres is the most picturesque, being the most tho-
roughly Hindu. Agra has the most beautiful buildings,
but Delhi is more like a great Muhammadan capital.
We passed an immense tank of red stone, and several
fine aqueducts, or raised stone canals, running through
the city. The appearance of one of them as it rolled
its mass of waters under overshadowing trees for a great
distance was very beautiful. The turbans worn here
are very small, and of the gayest colours; rose colour
seems a favourite hue.
On asking if gentlemen could visit the old King, I
G 3
130
PALACE AT DELHI.
found that Lord Ellenborough had forbidden the pre-
sentation of Nazzars to him, and since that time, he has
never sat in his great Hall of Audience, nor received
any one.
How petty it is to fret an old man of seventy-
six by refusing to allow third persons to pay him the
usual mark of homage. If every one in India brought
him a Nazzar what harm could it do us? On the con-
trary, the more reverence is shown to him the more
important is he in our hands.
We had a very pleasant drive in the evening with
Mrs. R. and Miss W. over very bad roads, but rather
pretty country, to a hill from whence we had a view of
the cantonments. Saw many wild peacocks close to
the road, and a flock of wild geese over our heads.
Passed the house of Hindu Rao, a Mahratta chief, a
very intelligent man and great sportsman, very fond of
the British.
Saturday, February 13th.-Rose at gun-fire, i. e.,
dawn; drove to the palace, which is surrounded by a
noble wall of red stone. On our way we passed the
English church built by Colonel Skinner, I suppose, in
his public capacity, for in his private character he
crected a mosque just opposite. The palace gateway,
C. said, somewhat resembles the Char Chowk, or Great
Bazár at Kábul, but this is much handsomer. It is very
long, so that one takes some time in driving through it,
and a good deal like what bazárs are at home, an arcade
with small shops on each side. The court beyond would
be very handsome were it in proper order, but the
channel for water which crosses it is broken and dry.
Here some Chobdars, men with silver sticks, met us,
without whom no one can enter the palace, within
whose precincts no one is allowed to use that emblem
of royalty a parasol or umbrella; I, therefore, covered
my bonnet with a shawl.
We left the carriage and walked into the second
court where the Diwán-i-ám is situated. Over the second
gateway, and facing the King's throne, is a gallery for
a band of musicians. The Diwan-i-ám is an open hall
supported on pillars, and filled with servants sleeping
ITALIAN ARCHITECTS.
131
It
on their charpáis or native beds, which are just four-
footed frames, with cord or broad tape to lic upon.
was also crowded with Palkís and Tonjons (the latter
are like the body of a small gig, with a pole before
and behind, and are carried on men's shoulders),
belonging to the royal family. Some must have been
very handsome. The present king, Bahadar Shah, has
eighty sons and daughters, and although his income is
very large, it is all swallowed up by so numerous a
family. The throne is a canopy of marble, supported
on four pillars, richly gilt and inlaid, projecting from
a small chamber in the hall, the whole of which is
beautifully inlaid with birds, fruits, and flowers in
Florentine Mosaic; and over the door behind the
throne, through which the King was wont to enter, is
a Mosaic copy of Raffaelle's Apollo playing on the
violin: this, with many other circumstances, proves
that Shah Jehán employed Italian architects. On the
bronze gates, which are exactly like some of the fine
church doors in Italy, are lilies, such as are so often
used as emblematical of the Virgin. Among the birds.
on the walls of the throne-chamber is a very good
Mosaic of a bullfinch, a bird quite unknown in India.
Beneath the throne is a very handsome white marble
table, from which all the precious work is in pietra
dura has been picked out by the Mahratas. On this
the Vázir used to stand, and thus hand up petitions to
the Sovereign, who, from his elevated seat, had a view
of both courts of the Palace, so that one understands
how a petitioner could make salám to the King on
entering the outer court.
Passing through the third court we came to the
fourth, where the Dewan-i-Khás or Hall of State is
situated. Like all other Halls, Mosques, Minárs,-I
might almost say every kind of Muhammadan building,
-it is raised on a chabútra or platform about three feet
high, which is admirably carved, as is likewise a marble
railing in front of it. The scarlet awnings which used
to extend from its façade halfway across the court, are
now sadly discoloured and faded. The hall is sup-
132
HALL OF AUDIENCE.
ported on massive columns of white marble, the lower
part of which is inlaid like the throne in the Déwán-i-Am
with precious Mosaic of flowers, and the upper adorned
with gilding. The richly variegated ceiling has been
much injured by the Mahrattas. A canal of water
runs through half of this magnificent hall, and in the
centre, on a dais of white marble, formerly stood the
famous peacock throne which was carried off by Nadir
Shah.
Behind the throne are marble lattices overlooking the
broad Jamna and the surrounding country. In the
centre one there is a seat for the King formed of one
huge block of alabaster. On one side of this once-
unequalled throne-room is a smaller hall where the King
usually sits to administer justice. A pair of scales
adorn the wall. The pardahs or curtains between the
pillars are torn and faded. The old King retains no
authority beyond the precincts of the Palace: his estates
are under the management of the Governor-General's
Agent, who obtains for the aged monarch a much larger
revenue than the dishonesty and bad management of
his own people ever allowed him to receive from the
same lands. The palace garden would be very fine if it
were in tolerable order; but neither the King nor the
Government of India like to pay for repairs. It is
extensive, and intersected with broad shady walks, with
canals and fountains on every side. In some parts the
water runs under a pavement in which open patterns
are cut of stars and other devices. There were few
flowers, and those common ones. We saw a fine bath
of a single block of marble; and on each side of the
garden is a large summer-house, one of which is called
Sawan, and the other Bhádon, from the two rainy
months, which begin about the middle of July and end
the middle of September. The reason is that these
halls (which are raised a good height from the ground)
have not only fountains all round them, but a large
deep square bath in the centre, each side of which is
full of niches for lamps, over which the water falls to
the depth of about five feet. There is a large tank in
PRIVATE CHAPEL.
133
the centre of the garden, which the present King has
spoilt, by erecting a summer-house of red stone in
the centre. At the end of one of the canals is a
building of some height, as usual, full of lamp niches
for a cascade to fall over. As we were not allowed to
use our parasols, it was well for us that the garden was
so shady.
The present heir apparent of the empire of Akbar the
Great lives in a part of the palace which is thatched.
The state Palkís (called Nalkís), like the state howdahs,
are in the shape of four-post canopies, with an awning
in front. They are painted crimson and gold.
We drove out by a part of the palace where the under
servants live, something equivalent to "mews" in Lon-
don. We soon reached the magnificent Jamma Masjid,
which is approached by an immense flight of steps, like
those of some of the churches at Venice, only on a more
gigantic scale. The whole building is of red stone
inlaid with white marble, of which latter material the
domes are built.
I forgot to tell you of the King's private chapel, a
second Motí Masjid, in the palace. It is built of the
purest marble, beautifully carved, with three gilt domes.
Yet even this gem is so far neglected that the small
marble tank in front of it was dry, and a handful of
long grass growing out of it.
Perhaps I have not made it clear to you, that all
eminent mosques form one side of a quadrangle, the
other three sides of which are colonnades. Every
Masjid is so built that the worshippers on entering face
Mecca, therefore in this country the entrance of every
mosque faces the east. The quadrangle of the Jamma
Masjid is immense, the colonnades are open, and the
views through them of the city and its trees are very
pretty. These are the first open colonnades I have seen.
I am inclined to prefer this Masjid even to the Motí
Masjid of Agra; the latter is most beautiful, but this
far exceeds it in simple grandeur. It is a most stately
building. Several Mussulmáns were bathing their
heads, feet, and hands in the tank in the centre of the
134
THE JAMMA MASJID.
court, and we afterwards saw one at prayer. The pre-
scribed postures are manifold: sometimes he sat on his
heels, sometimes prostrated his forehead on the ground,
sometimes stood praying, sometimes opened his hands.
as if reading from them, but it was all done with much
more decency, solemnity, and apparent abstraction from
outward objects, than is usually seen among Romanist
votaries. The pulpit consists of three finely carved
marble steps, but it was dirty, and some common pitchers
were hidden underneath it. There is another pulpit of
marble of a different shape just outside the mosque,
this is used on the last day of Ramazán, when the King
comes in state to break up the fast, and almost every
Mussulman in Delhi is present; the great court, which
holds about 12,000 persons, is then filled, and as the
voice of the Iman inside would be inaudible to this
multitude, another takes his place on the elevated pulpit,
and acts as fugleman to the vast crowd present, all of
whom kneel, rise, stand, and pray as one man.
Mr. Roberts saw this last October, and said it was a
very fine spectacle, but then comes the thought that this
worship dishonours God by denying the Trinity in
Unity, and lowers the Lord our righteousness to the
level of a creature. On the left hand of the Masjid is an
inclosure in which the beard of Muhammad is said to be
preserved; there they would not let us enter, where-
upon my husband told them it was idolatrous to consider
a place more holy where the beard of a man was pre-
served than the mosque where they worshipped God
himself, &c. The semicircular recess in the centre of
the mosque contains divers sheets of paper covered with
writing. The words being, in some cases, arranged in
curious devices so as to form rosettes and other figures
(in fact, not unlike specimens of caligraphy at home),
the nature of which I curiously inquired. We found
they were done by different personages (one by the
King, another by the heir apparent, both of whom are
great adepts in the art of penmanship), partly out of
devotion, the sentences being from the Kurán, and
partly perhaps to make their talents public. Divers
SPORT WITH PIGEONS.
135
little boys were sitting in the colonnades reading, or
rather chanting, the Kurán, at the very top of their
lungs, and with no more attention than school boys
learning the Latin Grammar in England. When I
praised the beautiful form of the Arabic letters some
time ago, I did not know the difference between these
and the Persian: they are the same characters, but the
Arabic are upright and much stiffer, while the Persian
is a beautiful flowing character which cannot be printed
on account of its luxuriant lines, so that books printed
in Persian are in the Arabic letters, while true Persian
can only be lithographed.
On
We went up to the roof of the Masjid, and close
beneath us saw a sport for which Delhi is famous.
the roof of several houses were men waving little flags
to make their flock of pigeons fly, while elder men sat
gravely by, smoking. A large hurdle was fixed on the
roof for the pigeons to alight upon. When they meet
another flock in the air the two parties mingle, and
one invariably carries away some from the other. Each
flock then returns home, and the owner who has gained
some of his neighbour's birds, goes to him and threatens
to sell them if they are not ransomed. It was very
pretty to watch two, three, and sometimes four flocks
of these beautiful birds, of all colours, meeting,
mingling, and then parting again. This is a favourite
amusement of the old King, many of whose bird-
cages were on the top of his Hall of Justice.
We ascended the Minár, which is 150 feet high. The
view of the city was very different from that of Benáres;
here, although the Hindu half of the population is
rather the larger, yet the character of the buildings is
Muhammadan; the houses are only two stories high,
instead of the lofty edifices at Benáres, and amid the
multitude of mosques I only remarked the pointed
dome of one Hindu temple.
The streets are the widest we have scen in any native
city, many trees are interspersed among the houses, and
the aspect of the country, covered with old tombs, not
unlike that of the Campagna di Roma. I begin to
136
NADIR SHAH.
think Hindustan is one vast plain; I have not seen a
hill since we left the Rájmahal range.
On descending the steps of the Jamma Masjid we
found a group of Afgháns, who, as usual, gazed at us,
with much curiosity. In the afternoon these steps are
the resort of merchants and sellers of every kind; now,
early in the morning, they were occupied by men wait-
ing to be hired, as in the parable of the labourers in the
vineyard. Met many in the streets riding on fine oxen.
We have done with the Ekká, or one-horse carriage of
Bengal, and find instead the Byli, a similar conveyance
but drawn by two oxen. Instead of the large white
turbans worn lower down the country, the men of Delhi
delight in the smallest and brightest varieties of head
gear, their turbans being jauntily stuck on one side,
generally over the left ear.
We drove through the Chandi Chowk, which is very
wide, with an aqueduct in the midst; it is the main
street of the city. On one side of it is a little mosque
of white marble, with three gilded domes, memorable
enough, for when Nadir Shah invaded in 1739, the
reigning sovereign of Delhi went out to meet him, they
entered the city together, and Nadir quartered his
nobles and troops on the inhabitants (being much such
a guest as Napoleon proved when he came to give
freedom to Germany), but with the strictest order to
do no injury. One morning it was bruited about that
the dreaded Persian King was dead. Immediately the
people of Delhi rose upon his troops, and many of the
inhabitants gave up their guests to slaughter. But the
lion soon showed he was not dead. Nadir gave the
order for indiscriminate massacre. He drew his sword,
and sat there in that little mosque, with the symbol of
vengeance in his hand, till the streets of Delhi ran red
with blood, and the King and his nobles came down.
from the palace, and besought him to put an end to the
work of death. Then Nadir sheathed his sword, and
the slaughter was stayed. He returned to Persia laden
with the spoil of the imperial city, which had hardly
recovered from this misfortune when the Mahrattas
TOMB OF SAFDER JANG.
137
came like a flock of vultures to prey upon the game
struck down by the mighty hunter.
Passed a garden, made by the Begum Rushanára,
the daughter of Shah Jehán.
Sunday, February 14th.-Mr. R. read prayers, and
C. a sermon on "Peace with God," a most admirable
one by Rev. Chas. Bradley. We had very heavy rain
the previous evening and this morning. Strange for
this country, we have had rain after every halt; at
Benáres, Cawnpore, Agra, and here. We have also had
green peas ever since we landed. The European vege-
tables flourish only in the cold weather. C. went with
the rest of the party to church, a very bad sermon,
though the Clergyman is zealous in having service often.
At many stations, such as Mainpuri, there is no chap-
lain. At the latter place Mr. Unwin reads the English
Liturgy, and an American Missionary preaches.
They have several small comforts in India which are
not so often thought of in England. For instance, only
arm-chairs are used at dinner; there are always plenty
of footstools in the dining and drawing rooms, and also
in the carriages, which is really a comfort. Hot water
plates are used at every meal.
Monday, February 15th.-Started soon after gun-fire
in a very English fog (Miss M. accompanying us), for
the Kutab. The roads all round Delhi are detestable,
though Mr. R. is doing his best to get them mended.
The country is most interesting; full of ancient tombs.
and mosques.
We passed a huge ape, "sloping along," as an Ame-
rican would say; there are numbers of wild monkeys
in the neighbourhood. About halfway to the Kutab
we stopped to see the tomb of Safder Jung, the founder
of the present dynasty of Oud, who called in the Mah-
rattas to deliver the country from the Rohillas.
was Vazir to the King of Delhi, and to this day the
people speak of the Sovereign of Laknao, (who is a King
of our making) as the Vazir. I did not much admire
the tomb; one becomes very fastidious after seeing such
admirable buildings as we have lately done.
He
138
THE KUTAB MINAR.
We changed horses; a Rajah in the city having lent
us a pair. Two of his Sálises ran the whole way; it is
quite a pleasure to see these men run, they do it so well,
very near the ground, and, at the same time, with
indescribable lightness, and with a regularity of pace
that looks as if they would go on for ever. A Muham-
madan woman was standing at the gateway, whose
whole dress consisted of a pair of trousers, and a cloth
wrapped round her head and the upper part of her body,
so that I took her for a man.
We arrived at the Kutab about nine o'clock, and
while waiting for breakfast and for Mr. R. (who left us
en route to inspect a piece of new road, the roads and
villages being under his superintendence as magistrate
and collector of the district), I went with my husband
to look at this famous tower. It is truly magnificent-
said to be the highest in the world (not reckoning
China), being 246 feet in height. It is built of red
stone in five different shafts, each crowned by a gallery
of the most exquisite workmanship, and adorned with
bands of colossal Arabic inscriptions in relief. It is
fluted the whole way up, narrowing as it ascends. The
lower story has twenty-seven volutes alternately round
and angular; in the next story the volutes are all
rounded, in the third all angular. The carving under
the galleries I can compare to nothing but the exquisite
wood carving of some of the stall canopies in the
Belgian churches; at the distance at which we saw it,
it looked like lace-work.
The Kutab stands near two courts of a very ancient
Hindu temple. Both these courts are surrounded by
ruined cloisters, through which we walked. The columns
are of fantastic form, something akin to the Egyptian,
but wanting their colossal size, being not more than
twelve feet high, having slender columns, each differing
from the others, and elaborately and delicately carved
with figures of their gods, all of which the Muhamma-
dans have conscientiously defaced. Just in the middle
of the temple are three magnificent arches, the begin-
ning of a mosque which Shaháb-u-Dín Ghori (cir.
MUSSALMAN AND HINDU ARCHITECTURE.
139
1200 A.D.) intended to build. They are pointed much
like the Gothic, and both in majesty of form and
extreme delicacy of ornament are most admirable.*
The contrast between the Muhammadan and Hindu
architecture is very great; the former is as majestic as
perhaps man in his fallen state is capable of conceiving;
the latter is wholly devoid of this quality, and in spite
of the beauty of some minor details, the effect of the
whole is grotesque confusion. The pillars are such as
one might imagine in an uncasy dream.
It seems as if no mind, unaccustomed to dwell on the
Unity of the Godhead, were capable of any truly sub-
lime idea even in temporal things; as if this, the most
simple and sublime of all ideas, were needful for the
education of the intellect and heart before man can
conceive anything of unity and harmony, or represent
them in his works. No man can imagine aught higher
than that which he worships: in no ancient Greek or
Roman building that I have seen is there anything to
raise the mind from earth;-their majesty consists chiefly
in their size; their harmony is the harmony of earthly
beauty, but there is nothing which solemnizes one as a
Gothic building does.
Now the Hindu mythology being far beneath that of
Rome and Greece (especially as held by their philoso-
phers and artists), their architecture and sculpture is
proportionately debased; the latter is worthy of a New
Zealand war club, the former is fit for the revels of
sorcerers. There is something diabolical in it, and in
viewing it one's sympathies are all with the fierce Mus-
salmans, who gloried in the title of idol-breakers. The
only part of the temple I at all admired were two small
domes, which the Hindus, being unable to make an
arch, formed by laying the stones horizontally one on
the top of the other, the top being finished with four
pretty shells. In the centre of the temple is an iron
pillar, with a Sanscrit inscription, the purport of which
is, that as long as this pillar stands, the Ráj or kingdom
has not finally departed from the Hindus. The Mú-
* Query.-Did Gothic architecture come from the East ?
140
TOMB OF SHAMSHUDIN ALTAMSH.
hammadans therefore endeavoured to melt it, but in
vain, and at last desisted from their attempts to destroy
it after firing a cannon-ball or two against it. Beyond
the mosque is the tomb of Shamshudín Altamsh, one of
the slave kings. Its date, according to Elphinstone,
must be about A.D. 1240. The tomb itself, which is of
white marble, and no doubt carved, has, I grieve to say,
been covered with plaster, out of respect, and with as
much propriety as when Jacob called the Queen he for
the same reason.
On the other side, close to the kutab, is a magni-
ficent dome, built by Akbar as a college; and passing
through it, we came to the tomb of a saint, for whom
Akbar had special regard. It is, as usual, within a
latticed chamber, beautifully carved. The name of a
young officer was scribbled on its walls; just beneath,
a few months after, another hand added, "killed at
Sobráon." After thoroughly enjoying this interesting
walk we were returning, when we met Mr. R. We
passed a kind of cupola which Lord Hardinge has very
properly had removed from the top of the Kutab, as it
formed no part of it originally, but was put up by the
British when rebuilding the upper part of the tower,
which had been destroyed by lightning.
We found an excellent breakfast awaiting us, Mr.
Roberts's servants having started from Delhi about
two A.M. with the requisites for it. What a hardship
an English servant would think it, to walk twelve miles
on such an occasion in the middle of the night! Then,
being invigorated, we all returned to the Kutab. The
old Chaprásí who attended us in the morning was a Ját,
a very simple industrious race of Hindu agriculturists
who do not steal,-for this practice runs very much in
families. The Játs are found in Sind, and are the
original inhabitants and peasantry of the Punjab and
the protected Sikh States, Lodiana, Firozpûr, Patiale,
&c. Dr. Wilson considers them to be the descendants
of a Scythian tribe and synonymous with the Getæ.
We ascended to the first gallery of the Kutab, and
anything so utterly abominable as the odour of the bats
LEGEND OF PITHORA SING.
141
never offended my nostrils before. It made me quite
ill, in spite of closing both nose and mouth with my
pocket-handkerchief.
It was with some difficulty I could make up my mind
to go on, as I was persuaded little more could be seen
from the top than from where we were, which proved
to be the case; but plainly perceiving that C. would
despise my pusillanimity if I did not go, I resolved to
do so.
He and Mr. Roberts very kindly carried me up
the next story on a king's cushion, so that I was able
to walk to the top from thence, and found that the
bats dwelt chiefly below. War ought to be proclaimed
against them instantly. We could not see further than
Dehli, but a radius of twelve miles in every direction is
not a small one. The whole country is thickly covered
with ruins, more or less perfect. Behind the temple
are the remains of a huge Hindu fort, underneath
whose protection the temple and old Hindu Dehli re-
posed in safety. A great part of the city still remains,
containing as many ruins as houses. This fort belonged
to a Rajput chief, and the Hindu legend regarding the
crection of the Kutab is this: The chief, Pithora Sing,
had a beautiful daughter, and as it is, or was, the custom
of the Rajputs never to marry their daughters without
a fight, he sent word to Udal Sing, King of Cancuj,
that he had a marriageable daughter, whom Udal might
carry off if he could. Having, in this truly Irish
fashion, done his best to get into a scrape, he bethought
himself that Udal was a very powerful king, and that
it would no longer be safe for the young princess to go
daily to the Jamna, about seven miles off, to worship
as she had been wont to do. He therefore built the
Kutab, from the top of which she could see the Jamna
and make Pújá to it as effectually as if she were on its
banks; but I am sorry to say I do not know how Udal
sped in his wooing. The Rajputs in the neighbourhood
say they are descended from Pithora Sing, and there is
a standing quarrel between the Hindus and Muham-
madans as to who built the Kutab. On the Mussalman
side are the Arabic inscriptions, and the fact that many
142
WHO BUILT THE KUTAB.
of the openings for light are arched, which the Hindus
were notoriously incapable of doing. But on the other
hand, the tower is not on a Chábutra or platform, which
all Minárs arc. Secondly, the style is unlike that of
any other Muhammadan tower, besides which the be-
ginning of a corresponding Minar, not far off, which is
undoubtedly the work of Mussalmans, is on a Chábutra,
and is one-third larger. The door of the Kutab faces
the north instead of the west: the said arches might
easily have been added, as they are only one stone deep:
and that the inscriptions have been added after the
tower was built is manifest by the fact, that another
inscription near the base has been begun and left im-
perfect; thus showing that the original surface of the
stones was on a level with the letters which are now in
relief. It seems probable (as Mr. Roberts thinks) that
this famous tower is a Hindu work, and that the Mú-
hammadan invaders arrived before it was finished and
added to it, and then afterwards may have intended to
make it one of the Minars of the mosque which they
commenced.
We saw men beneath us making salám to the iron
lát or pillar. Between the Kutab and Dehli lies what
is commonly called Old Dehli (but which, in reality, is
Dehli the Second) and its suburbs. It was built by the
Patans (as the Indians call their Afghán invaders, and
their descendants, after Hindu Dehli began to decline,
while the modern city is the work of the later Múham-
madan conquerors, who are known by the name of
Moguls, but who, in reality, were Turcoman Tartars, of
the same origin as the present Turks. You will find in
Elphinstone, that the so-called Mogul Emperors always
spoke of the Mogul Tartars with aversion and contempt;
but the Indians, not knowing the difference between the
two races, and having been accustomed to real Moguls
under Teimúr Lang or Tamalane, applied the same name
to their new invaders. The Patan buildings are easily
distinguishable from the other by their massive charac-
ter. There is something grand in their solid simple
forms and low domes. A very fine old Patan tomb is
MUHAMMAD TOGHI LAK.
143
close to the Kutab. Their mosques have frequently
innumerable domes: Mr. Roberts counted eighty-five
domes on one which is now inhabited by a numerous
population.
During the Mahratta invasion, the people took refuge
in these old buildings, where the solid masonwork
enabled them to make some defence; and many mosques
and tombs have thus become dwelling-places. At some
distance from Pithora Sing's fort is a very fine Patan
fort, built by Shir Shah, the Afghán king, cir. A.D. 15-10;
and another called Toghlakabad, built by Gheias u Dín,
the founder of the dynasty of Toghlak about A.D. 1325.
This king pressed the whole population into his service
to build his fort; but a certain Saint Nizám-ud-Din,
being at that time employed in digging a great well, the
people preferred working for him. Toghlak forbade
this; the people then worked for the king by day, and
for Nizam-ud-Din by night. Enraged at this, Toghlak
forbade any one to sell oil to the saint; but, owing to
the prayers of the latter, the water of the well burnt like
oil, and the work went on as well as ever.
Muhammad Toghlak, son of this perverse monarch,
was a magnificent prince; but his caprice amounted to
madness. He twice took it into his head to transfer
the capital of his empire from Dehli to Doulatabad, in
the Deccan, and twice caused the whole population of
the former to transfer themselves to the latter city, and
then gave them leave to return, causing by these forced
marchies (one of which was during a famine) the death
and ruin of thousands.
If we had stayed on the summit of the Kutab all the
time it has taken me to tell you what we saw from
thence, we should have been roasted; for even at this
season, when warin winter dresses can be worn all day,
and when fires are pleasant, the sun is intolerably hot in
the middle of the day, although the wind is cool. After
descending this immense tower, I quite forgot my first
impression of it, which was, "low short!"
"How short!" We rested
ourselves a little, Miss M. being much exhausted; and
then Mr. Roberts took me a second time through the
144
ALTAMASI'S TOMB-PIGEONS-ANTS.
cloisters, and afterwards to Akbar's college, of which I
made a sketch; but photography is the only way of
giving an adequate idea of the beautiful and elaborate
carvings with which all these buildings are adorned.
The latter Muhammadan domes rise higher and higher
than their Patan precursors, until they assume a horse-
shoe form, and those of Shah Jehan's time, such as the
Táj, are raised on a low cylinder. Mr. Roberts pointed
out to me a kind of bell pattern on the Kutab, which is
found in a ruder form in the Hindu temple adjoining,
and is again repeated on the walls of Shamshudin
Altamsh's tomb. From this it appears, that the Múham-
madan conquerors made the Hindu artificers work for
them.
We adjourned to Altamsh's tomb, the interior of
which I sketched. It is octagonal; and the semicir-
cular dome at each of the four corners is built in the
same manner as those in the Hindu temple. We
returned to the little room where we breakfasted and
took luncheon. There were some beautiful pigeons in
the court-yard, with feathered feet, such as I never saw
before, long feathers growing out of each toe. The
stable was formerly a mosque. We had a refreshing
drive through a country quite crowded with old tombs
and other ruins. Saw some young wheat crops full of
green paroquets; they are so pretty that one forgets the
mischief they do. The people here frighten away birds
by shooting clay pellets at them from curious bows,
with a double string, between which the ball is placed.
We left the carriage close to an old bridge which has
been deserted by the stream, which now flows some
yards beyond it, while the bridge itself is on a little
rise.
We met a whole army of ants marching in close
column, each with a grain of some kind in its mouth.
They were so numerous that they had made a little
smooth path down the hill to their nest. Passed a large
building with high walls, now called the Arab Serai: it
is inhabited by Arabs, who have been long settled in
this country, and are descendants of some of those Arab
SHRINE OF SAINT NIZAM-UD-DIN.
145
mercenaries who have played such a conspicuous part in
Indian warfare. One of them, a fine-looking old man
with a venerable white beard, joined us. They are quite
fair in comparison to the natives. As we walked through
the narrow streets of the village, we saw a poor Muham-
madan woman spinning; she had a small wheel, and, in
a marvellous fashion, contrived to spin thread out of a
mere lump of wadding. I gave her half a rupee, at
which she was delighted. She had a bright, pleasing
face her whole dress consisted of trousers and veil.
All, even the poorest, wear bracelets, armlets, and rings
of some kind or other, sometimes of coloured clay stuck
over with little beads, sometimes of brass, sometimes of
silver. The Thánádár, or chief of the police of this
village, joined us with his men, Mr. Roberts being his
superior. He was a very handsome, delicate-featured
young man (the son of an impoverished Nawáb), and
wore silver rings on his toes. The police preceded and
followed us, spears in hand. We entered a marble
court, in which stood the shrine of Toghlak's opponent,
the Saint Nizám-ud-Din, a very fine old Patan mosque,
and divers square lattice-work enclosures containing
tombs of the royal family. The shrine was built about
535 years ago, by Khiza Khan, a brother of Toghlak,
and a disciple of the saint. It is square, with a pointed
dome, and stands within a colonnade, the ceiling of which
is painted (chiefly blue and gold) on copper. Between
the pillars are scarlet Pardals or curtains. The inner
wall, which immediately surrounds the tomb, is of beau-
tifully-carved open work. We were not allowed to
enter, but stood at the door. The tomb, about the size
of a coffin, is on the ground, covered with a spangled
stuff, and surmounted by a canopy, much like that of a
four-post bed. A row of ostrich eggs hangs over it,
each being the offering of some merchant; perchance
Sindbad brought one. A desk for the Kurán stands at
the head of the tomb.
The adjoining mosque has only one external dome.
It is of Toghlak's time, and remarkable for its simple
grandeur of form. The only ornaments within are fine
VOL. I.
H
146
ROYAL TOMBS.
Arabic inscriptions in relief. There is a very fine echo
in it. We then hurried to the tomb of Jchánira Begum,
the celebrated daughter of Shah Jehán. It stands
within a beautiful marble railing eight or ten feet high.
The tomb is an oblong square of white marble, about
five feet long by twelve or sixteen inches broad, and as
many in height. It is open and filled with carth. At
the head is a white marble screen, on which are inscribed
some verses written by herself, to the effect that the
humble, the transitory Jehanizá was a disciple of the
holy men of Christ-supposed to be the Romish priests.
Two other tombs have since been placed in the same
inclosure. One is of the prince, who went to meet Lord
Lake's army when we took possession of Dehli, and
delivered the poor old king from the Mahrattas.
Another of these inclosures, containing the tomb of
the King, Muhammad Shah, has marble doors, which
Lord Hardinge has had copied to replace those which
the Mahrattas carried away from the railing round the
tomb of Mumtáz Begum (i.e., the Táj): they are very
elegant, one side is divided into three compartments,
cach containing a branch of lilies; the other side has
one long branch running the whole way up. Another
tomb opposite, of the two elder brothers of the present
King, which has been finished within the last twelve or
fifteen years, shows that the present generation have in
no degree lost the skill which characterised their ances-
tors, for nothing can be more graceful than the design
and workmanship. Flowers were lying on most of the
tombs, and a tree or two is suffered to grow in the court,
thus gradually adding to its beauty: this is generally
the case in court-yards; that in the Palace has some
palms. Passing through a narrow passage or two I
heard Mr. Roberts say, "Now, I think, she will be
astonished, she does not know what to expect," and,
accordingly, I was surprised a moment after, on passing
through a narrow passage, to find myself overlooking
very large well about sixty feet square, surrounded by
houses of several stories, and with a lofty flight of wide
steps opposite to where we stood. A crowd of people
द
WELL OF NIZAM-UD-DIN.
147
were sitting or standing on the house-tops to our right,
who looked most picturesque in their garments of many
colours, with the bright blue sky and the green foliage
behind them. Mr. Roberts had just said, "This is the
well of Nizám-ud-Din," when, to my utter amazement,
a man joined his hands over his head and leaped from
the house-top into the well: another and another fol-
lowed, from this house-top and from that, from thirty
to sixty feet high they sprang, and before I could recover
my breath, a perfect shower of men and boys came flying
down into the water. At last they reappeared from
their plunge, and swimming, by throwing each arm for-
ward alternately as far as they could reach, they gained
the steps, and gathering up some addition to their very
scanty garment, ran round to the passage in which we
stood, so that on turning I beheld a crowd of half-naked
dripping men and boys looking as cheerful as they could
with chattering teeth: two rupees sent them away fully
satisfied. As for me the suddenness of the act and the
novelty of the scene completely bewildered me, and my
husband and Mr. Roberts were quite pleased at the
success of their secret plot. Some of the leapers were
little boys of twelve years old.
From thence we walked past many fine buildings of
which not even the name is known, some of them with
painted domes, to the tomb of Hamáiún erected by his
son Akbár. The sun was just set as we reached it:
nevertheless there was light enough to enjoy the view
from the stately terrace of the surrounding country,
with its noble domes and feathery palms. This tomb
is of red stone or granite, peculiarly simple and grand,
just fit for a warrior king. There is no inscription.
whatever on the tomb itself. It was curious to find
the Masonic symbol of the two triangles interlaced,
inlaid most conspicuously on the building. The old
Arab said that two knobs in the centre of these figures,
one on each side of the centre arch, were meant to
represent eyes. I should like to know if this were built
by an European architect, or whether there were free-
masons in India at that time. I wish you would ask
u 2
148
EXPENSE OF HINDU MARRIAGES.
Mr. Vernon about this, as he is learned in the history
of his craft. Almost all the Arab masters of ships are
freemasons. Some vulgar Europeans have defaced this
magnificent monument by foolish inscriptions and
drawings worthy of an ale-house. Such creatures
ought to be sent to the treadmill, for they sadly require
chastisement and employment.
We re-entered the carriage, feeling convinced that
to see the environs of Delhi would require weeks,
and afford ample work for both pen and pencil, with
calotype to boot, to give anything like an adequate idea
of them. We drove under the walls of Shir Shah's fine
old fort, which it was too late to enter, and our way
home was brightened by incessant bursts of summer
lightning fluttering behind the ruins as we passed. I
omitted to mention that in the morning we saw the
ruins of an observatory built by Rajah Jye Sing: he
is the same who built the one at Benares. We were
exceedingly tired, but delighted with our expedition.
.
Mr. Roberts is an excellent guide, for he takes an
interest in, and understands everything, and there is,
besides, something so frank and pleasant about him
that we felt as if we had known him for years.
After all our fatigues poor Mr. Roberts had to go to
a Hindu wedding. He could not avoid it, as the Rajah,
who gave the marriage feast, and whose little brother
of ten years old is the bridegroom, had sent us the pair
of horses which took us on from Safder Jang's tomb.
Tuesday, February 16th.-Mr. Roberts brought home
divers chains of tinsel ribbon, with false stones, and a
little bottle of atta, from the feast. The Rajah be-
wailed the trouble and expense of the marriage cere-
monies, both of which are very great. The entertain-
ments last eight or nine days, or rather nights, at the
end of which the bridegroom is conducted in state to
visit the bride, who in the present instance is a little
girl of seven years old. The ceremony is indissoluble,
but the bride is not brought home to her husband's
house for six or eight years more, though, if he die in
the interim, she is considered a widow, and prohibited
HINDU BRIDAL PROCESSION.
149
from marrying again, a custom productive of a thousand
evil consequences, and of great hardship to the poor girl.
Mr. Roberts asked the Rajah why he did not break
through the custom he lamented, of lavishing so much
money on the ceremony. His answer was just the
reason given all over the world for most of the foolish and
extravagant acts committed: "Oh," said he, "So-and-
so spent so much on the marriage of his son or brother,
and if I did not do the same I should be considered
stingy." The procession is to take place this evening.
About five o'clock we drove to a house in the Chandí
Chouk, belonging to one of the native sub-collectors, a
Mussalmán, who had prepared scats for us, whence
we could see everything. The Chandi Chouk is a
double strect, and divided down the middle by a stone
watercourse, the edges of which were crowded with
people. The procession was passing down the side
furthest from us, and turning at the top of this im-
mense street, it paraded before the bride's house, which
was a little way above us, and then came close under
our windows. It was more than a mile long! The bal-
conies and flat roofs of the houses, which are generally
low, were covered with people; here was a variegated
group of men and children, there a bevy of shrouded
Muhammadan women, the first I have seen, and the
appearance of the crowd was that of a bed of tulips.
Just as we had seated ourselves numbers of empty
palkís were passing, then a crowd of Tonjons, some
empty, some with one or two children in them. Many
of these were gorgeously dressed, in brocade or velvet,
with Greek caps of gold and silver, and some of them
were borne by four men in scarlet, and attended by a
man on each side, with Chouries of the tail of the Yak
or Thibet Ox, to keep the flies off. All the friends of
the bridegroom's family do him as much honour as they
can, by sending their led-horses, clephants, vehicles of
every description, and their children richly dressed, to
form part of the procession. The ladies of the King's
harem were there in bullock carts, with scarlet hangings,
to see the show. His Majesty had also sent his guards,
150
THE HINDU BRIDEGROOM.
and his camels carried small swivel cannon, which
were fired at intervals. The lcd-horses formed a very
picturesque feature in the procession; some of them
were painted; a white one had his legs and tail dyed red
with henna, and splashes of the same on his body, as if
a bloody hand had been repeatedly laid on his side.
Then came a whole body of men clothed like soldiers,
at the Rajah's expense, with a band that was executing
a Scotch melody. Then appeared a whole tribe of
magnificent elephants, their faces claborately painted in
curious patterns, and gaily caparisoned in scarlet,
green, and other bright colours.
On a small baby-clephant, most richly adorned, sat a
little boy, with an aigrette of jewels in front of his
turban. His dress was a robe of lilac gauze, edged with
gold, reaching to his feet, and most carefully spread out,
fan-wise, on each side, as he sat astride on his elephant.
Then came the little bridegroom, who was a mass of
gold. He sat alone in his howdah, with a careful ser-
vant behind him; his turban was covered with a veil
of gold tissue, which he held up with both hands,
that he might see all that was going on. Bearers of
peacock fans, and others with gold pillars, walked by
him, while his elephant was as splendid as he could
be. A few other clephants closed the procession, the
beginning of which now passed under our windows on
its return. It consisted of huge trays filled with arti-
ficial flowers, the effect of which, as we looked down
the street, was extremely pretty, like a parterre of
the gayest colours. Then there were moving pavilions,
with beds of flowers in front of them, peacocks on the
top, and bands of musicians inside. Such music! fancy
flutes in hysterics, drums in a rage, violins screaming
with passion, and penny trumpets distracted with pain,
and you may have some idea of it. A crowd of women
and boys, of the poorest of the people, then appeared,
carrying little flags.
Eastern processions are like Eastern life, they com-
prise the greatest contrasts of poverty and magnifi-
cence. They seem to think everything, no matter
A SCRAMBLE-NACH-GIRLS.
151
what, helps to make a show. After, and among the
moving flower-beds, came trays of huge dolls, and
others of little puppets, one set of which represented a
party of European officers at dinner, with their Khit-
madgars waiting behind them. Another was a little
regiment of soldiers, such as children play with at home.
Suddenly the mob rushed in upon the bearers, and
down went the trays; one snatched a great doll, which,
in the struggle, had a leg pulled off; he seized the
dissevered limb, whirled it round his head like a shille-
lah, and valiantly defended the rest of his prize with it.
The trays were seen swaying about till they were torn
in picces, and the fortunate ones rejoiced in having got
a bunch of flowers, or perchance a doll's limb. I
believe they are stuffed with some kind of sweetmeat,
and the people think it lucky to get any fragment of
these trays, which are always given up to be scrambled
for, after they have passed the house of the bride. It
was the first time I had seen the natives in a state of
excitement, and I certainly thought they managed the
scramble with much good humour, and nothing like
the angry fighting that would have taken place in
England on a similar occasion.
After this appeared several Nách girls, splendidly
dressed in red and gold, their muslin petticoats full of
gathers, and very wide, and their long hair hanging
down their backs, cach carried on a canopied platform,
by men. One of them was very handsome, but they
stood in theatrical attitudes, beckoning, smiling, and
joking with the populace, and had a boldness of
manner most unpleasing in a woman. By this time it
was dusk, and the blaze of torches opposite the bride's
house was very pretty, as scen through the trees, of
which there are a good many in the middle of the
street. We returned to the carriage, and drove to a
spot opposite the house; the bridegroom soon arrived,
and looked most brilliant by the glare of the torches.
We watched him slowly entering the gateway, and
which was immediately shut, reminding us strongly of
Mat. xxv. 10. It was very interesting to see it.
152
KILLING A COW.
Wednesday, February 17th.-Mr. Roberts told me
that when he was encamped at the Kutab a few months
ago on his usual cold weather tour through the district,
a young man came to see them, and foolishly amused
himself by firing with ball in the direction of a village.
He aimed at a dog, and kept following it as it ran, of
course not seeing anything between him and it; the
consequence was that when he fired he killed a donkey
and a cow with one ball. Compensation for the cow
was accepted by the owner, a Brahman, but in a short
time he brought back the money, and said that his
fellow Brahmans threatened to expel him from caste,
if he accepted any remuneration for the death of so
sacred an animal, and nothing could induce him to
retain the price, for they look upon the death of a cow
as a sacrifice.
Mr. Pfander told us at Agra that the Hindus despise
Popery for its very affinity to their own system, saying
that if they are to have idols, they may as well keep
their own. I saw a speech made by an educated
Brahman the other day, in which he dwelt upon the
numerous points of similarity between Romanism and
Hinduism, and came to the conclusion that it was of
no use making each a slight change. The general
tenet of the Hindu is, that each nation is right in
having a religion of its own. The Muhammadans
utterly abbor what they consider to be the open ido-
latry of the Romanists. They never speak "candidly”
of image-worship in any shape. One cannot but ac-
knowledge that the spurious liberality which leads some
of our highly cultivated infidels to plume themselves
on their philosophical spirit in looking with serene and
self complacent indifference on all religious distinctions,
is really far more opposed to Christian feeling than the
natural impulse of an uncultivated mind,-say that of
a child or a Muhammadan-who sees, as if by instinct,
that if one religion be true, the opposite must be false,
and, therefore, detests it; and who could, by no possi-
bility, be made to comprehend the state of mind which
does not approve of idolatry, yet thinks it "very en-
CANTONMENTS.
153
thusiastic," narrow-minded, and bigoted decidedly to
condemn it. The cultivated natural mind is still more
at enmity against God than the uncultivated one; it
has turned away from the light, and has added the
bandages of sophistry to its own natural blindness. It
is among the former class that the majority will be
found, who
CC non furon rebelli
Ne furon fedeli a Dio, ma per se foro."
C. drove me in a buggy before dinner, the first time
I ever was in one. A two-wheeled carriage appears
very unsafe. Buggies are the same as gentlemen's cabs
in England. The cantonments always appear to me
the ugliest and most uninteresting part of every station.
The Bungalows, though very comfortable and prettily
furnished within, are very ugly without, being one-
storied houses with verandahs on two or three sides,
and immense thatched roofs.
The next day, Thursday, February 18th, our kind
friends persuaded us to stay and dine with them, and
then drove us about four miles to overtake the palkí.
The roads were so bad between this and Loodiana,
that, much to our regret, we are obliged to leave our
comfortable palkígárían and proceed in palkís. C. has
bought a duli or litter for himself, and one for the Ayah
whom I have engaged. These are much larger, lighter,
and, in some respects, more comfortable than a palkí,
being merely charpais or bedsteads made of tape, and
with a frame-work for the curtains; they are carried
by four men, like a palkí, but the bearers do not
require to rest so often. Eight bearers are allotted to
a palkí, four of whom work at a time. Each palkí or
duli has a Massalchi or torch-bearer, and our baggage
is all carried in Petarrahs or square tin boxes with
pyramidical tops, which are slung at each end of a
bamboo, each bearer carrying two. We now had ten
men for the palkí, four for each dúli, three Massal-
chies, and seven Petarrah carriers, making twenty-eight
in all.
We have laid a private dák which is rather cheaper
प्र 3
1
154
DAK TRAVELLING.
than when the post-office supplies the bearers; the latter
receive five annas a stage; under the post-office they
get rather less. Seven pence seems rather little for
carrying a heavy burden ten miles, but here the people
live well on a rupee and a half or two rupccs a month.
Since leaving Dehli we give them one rupee a stage as
"bakshish," i. e. present, but they seem quite satisfied.
You may judge how much less expensive a palkígárí is
than palkís, as the former holds two, and only requires
ten men to push it.
This was my first night in a palkí; I slept very well,
though not so comfortably as in the gárí; when we went
evenly the motion was by no means unpleasant, but
when the bearers ran it was like winnowing corn in a
sieve, such jolting could only be adequately described
by the muse when "she on dromedary trots." We
arrived early on Friday, February 19th, at Ganúr, where
I wrote this, and dear C., who had hardly slept at all
from the badness of the roads and an alarm of robbers
which was given during the night, and which made him
walk a good way, blunderbuss in hand, now got a little
rest. Arrived at the Dák Bungalow Karnál on Saturday
morning. I was a good deal tired, and looked forward
to staying there quietly until Monday afternoon.
and Mrs. called and hospitably insisted on our
coming to them, which we agreed to. It is curious to
see the different characters one mects in this passing
from house to house, and their different tastes and
occupations are no less marked. Sometimes the lady
of the house is devoted to flowers, another gives herself
up entirely to her children; our present hostess was
extremely well educated and scientific, and studies
mathematics and astronomy, &c. &c.
Mr.
This is the first house we have been in since leaving
Calcutta in which there is no daily family worship.
Mrs. told us of a family in which religion is an
interdicted subject. Fancy interdicting the subject of
astronomy, and yet of what consequence is that com-
pared to the inquiry whether God has given a revelation
of his will to man. It is ludicrous that a man should
DRY HEAT.
155
call himself a free thinker with such fetters on his
mind! The next morning she maintained an opinion,
which nothing but total ignorance of the subject could
render excusable, viz., that Sir William Macnaghten
deserved to be assassinated for his treachery! and
listened with incredulity to my husband's testimony (he
being almost the only person now alive who was fully
acquainted with the circumstance) that no treachery
was ever meditated by Sir William. Some people are
so fond of their own prejudices and opinions, that they
will not examine anything that is alleged against them.
On Saturday night a large hornet stung C. severely,
just below the ancle. We consulted the homoeopathic
book, and in consequence applied dry heat to the wound,
in the shape of a lighted cigar, which C. held as close
as he could bear it to the skin. It increased the pain.
very much for a minute or two, but in about half an
hour it seemed to have drawn it all out, and left nothing
more than a slight feeling of uneasiness without any
swelling or inflammation. The next day a little blister
rose on the spot, but altogether the dry heat proved
itself an admirable remedy. It is also employed for
snake bites or scorpion stings, first, if possible, stopping
the circulation about the wound, so as to prevent dan-
gerous effects on the whole system. Brandy, wine, or
cau-de-luce, should then be administered; a small dose
every five minutes to counteract the lowering effect of
the poison on the circulation. When the patient shivers
and stretches himself, and the stimulants begin to affect
his head, the danger is past. The skin around the
wound should be moistened with oil, soap, or anything
else which can be got, and the wound carefully wiped;
the heat must be kept up by having two irons in the
fire.
Monday, February 22nd.-Karnál was formerly a
very large station, and very healthy, but like every other
place in India, subject to occasional epidemics. Lord
Ellenborough was here during a week of rain, when
fever was prevalent: he hastily decided that it was an
unhealthy station, and removed it to Amballa, leaving
156
DANCING SNAKES.
the barracks, go-downs, storehouses, and other buildings
(a church included), erected at incalculable expense, to
go to ruin.
Only three families are now stationed here.
Just opposite the Dák Bungalow is an old Serai of the
time of the Moghul emperors, built for the accommo-
dation of travellers: it is a square enclosure, with lofty
walls and handsome gateways. We left Karnál about
five P.M.
Just as we were leaving, Mr.
was about
to hold his Kacheri, or Court, under an awning on the
steps of the house, and a great crowd of natives were
waiting to give evidence.
While we were at the Bungalow on Saturday, two
men with dancing snakes came to the door. They blew
their little pipes vehemently, but one snake remained.
inactive; the other, a copra capello, raised its hood as
if angry; the man patted and soothed it, and it then
waved itself about to the music. Then came a beggar
on horseback! who certainly had no one
"der für
seine Bekleidung sorgt."
We arrived at Umbala, in spite of the bad roads, for
breakfast on Tuesday morning, and it was most pleasant
to see Captain Dawe's kindly face at the door of my
palkí. It was the first kenned face I had scen since
Benares. We stayed with them till the following
evening. They sing at family worship, which I like
much. Ambala is a large station, but I saw nothing of
it, and I believe there is nothing to see. The Dawes
give 100 rupecs a month for their bungalow, which is
large, with about an acre of garden. A very nice small
bungalow can be had at Dehli for 50 rupees.
From starting late, we did not reach Kanakaserai
until two o'clock P.M. on 25th, at which time the heat
is very great. The country is intersected by ditches full
of water, and the road is wretched, being a succession
of high ridges: the country is of such bad repute north
of Dehli, that an escort of Sepáhis is usually given to
those who are marching. One was offered to us, but
declined, as we were going Dák. We had a sawár, or
trooper, instead: these men are changed at every station
like the bearers.
1
THIEF HANGING.
157
Just before reaching Ambala, I had my first view of
the Himalaya Mountains. At the distance we were,
they gave one the idea of a low line of hills, owing
probably to there being no manifest irregularity or bold-
ness of outline. I do not believe there is a green field
in India at this season, except of wheat: the grass has
disappeared, and in the place where it ought to grow is
dust. We have met several persons: one or two ladies
riding early in the morning, which is a pleasant way of
marching; they go about ten to fifteen miles daily. Met
some Sepáhis and a baggage elephant near Paltársi.
.
This morning we saw a thief, or what had been a
thief's body, hanging by the heels from a tree close to
the road: he had crept into a camp, stolen something,
and on going away, knocked down a Sepáhi sentry with
a bludgeon. A patrol of European soldiers came up at
the moment, cut the marauder down, and then hung
him up in terrorem.
in terrorem. After this we passed Sirhind,
formerly an extensive city, but one of the Sikh Gurús
(or spiritual teachers) having been cruelly murdered
here by the Muhammadans, the Sikhs destroyed the
place, vowed it should never be restored, and since that
time every Sikh who passes carries away a brick,
which he throws into the Jumna.
The ruins are very
extensive and solid. The travellers whom we now
meet are all armed. At one Chouki, the bearers were
not forthcoming. The headman or chowdi, therefore,
walked on with us, to try to get some at a village near.
In talking to him, C. found that he had heard the
missionaries at Loodiana preach. He said he believed
there was only one God, and gladly accepted some
tracts, one of the Gospels, and a copy of Dr. Wilson's
"Confutation of Hinduism, in Urdu." Having dined,
we left Kanakaserai about half-past six: it seems from
an inscription written on the wall, that in the room we
occupied, the measures were agreed upon December
13th, 1845, which led to the battles of Sobráon, &c.
February 26th, 1847.-We reached Loodiana in the
night, but I slept in the courtyard of the hotel (a bun-
galow so called) until six o'clock, when C. woke me to
158
THE AMERICAN MISSION.
take tea. We walked in the little stiff garden, with its
young cypresses looking like paint-brushes with their
tips spoilt, and enjoyed the pure fresh morning air, and
then proceeded to the Compound of the American mis-
sion, where we were most kindly received by the Rev.
Mr. Janvier, of the American Presbyterian Mission, and
soon after by his wife. Dressed and breakfasted. Mrs.
Janvier is a young and very pleasing person. The
more we see of Mr. Janvier, the more we admire his
meek and consistent Christian character: they have a
dear little girl of three years old. C. went to call on
Colonel Speirs, who commands the station. In the
evening we walked to the Mission burial-ground-a
little simple enclosure. We went over the house for-
merly occupied by Mr. Newton, and walked on the
roof, and then went out of the Compound gates. On
one side of the arch is written, "Jesus said, I am the
door; by me if any man," &c.; and on the other, "I am
the way, the truth, and the life," in English, Urdu, and
Panjabi. We saw a catechist working in his garden,
and spoke to him, found he was a Bengáli named
Haldhár, converted about twelve years ago, and there-
fore probably an older Christian than either of us. The
Mission Compound is a very large enclosure, contains
four houses (each with a good space around it), and
also the chapel, school, and printing-office. It is in a
very pleasant, open situation, away from the smoke of
the town.
Saturday, February 27th.-My husband's second in
command, Lieutenant Bean, and his Adjutant, Mr.
Adlum, called. In the evening we attended a prayer-
meeting at Mr. Rudolph's; but, as usual, my deafness
prevented my profiting by it. Mr. Rudolph is the
German missionary who is not yet ordained. I was
introduced to Mr. Porter, whom C. formerly knew.
Two or three officers and their wives were present.
The morning family prayer at all the missionaries'
houses is in Hindustaní; the evening in English. Most
of the servants and people employed in bookbinding
attend.
159
CHAPTER V.
Baptism of a Convert-Saleh Muhammad-Hasan Khan-Firozshahar
Afghan Dinner-Our House, and Servants' Life-School-Public
Spirit of Missionaries-Hubiq Khan-" Don't tell me lies!"-Captive
Children The Nizam-u-Doulah "You write Book" Aliwal
Cowardice-Hushing-up-Dust-storm-Sermon on the Mount-Death
of Akbar Khan-A Birsaker-Tract Distribution-Converted Devotee
-Temperance-Marriage of Orphan-Afghan Dress-A Jezailchi-
Blood Feuds-Old Soldier-Afghan Ladies-Raising a Regiment-
Hasan Khan's Journey-Garden-Illustrations of Scripture-Pets-
Phankahs-Drawing a Camel-Bribery-Depravity of Hinduism-
The Nizam-u-Doulah-Afghans and Sikhs-Firozshahar-Honesty by
Vocation.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 28th, 1847.-I did not go to
the morning service, it being Hindustaní. C. went
and was much pleased, the preacher, a Bengálí, gave an
excellent sermon. A woman was baptized, she is the
wife of a convert, and the Missionaries have known her
for two years past. My husband was much pleased
with the simplicity and seriousness with which she gave
her answers.
As we walked in the verandah in the afternoon, Mrs.
Janvier told me of the native Church here; it consists
of about sixteen, whom they consider real converts,
besides some of the people employed in bookbinding,
and the orphan girls who attend the public services.
They are all, except one, the fruits of the Mission. C.
accompanied Mr. Janvier to the native Church in the
city. In the evening we all partook of the Communion.
at the Mission Chapel, where the service was partly in
English and partly in Hindustaní. The American
:
160
MUHAMMAD HASAN KHAN.
Presbyterians allow any strangers who choose to par-
take of the Sacrament; they give an invitation and a
warning, and then leave it to the communicant's own
conscience; "but they exercise very efficient discipline
in this respect over all who are regular members of the
congregation. About fourteen native Christians com-
municated with us, and the minister who administered
the Holy Ordinance was a Bengálí, Golak Nath, an old
pupil of Dr. Duff's, but baptized here.
Monday, March 2nd.-Sáleh Muhammad called. I
do not like his face. He was the commandant of the
guard whom Akbar Khán commissioned to convey the
hostages and prisoners to Turkistán, and who was bribed
to bring them into the British camp. He had deserted
from us at Bámián in 1840, so that he is a double
traitor; but my husband received him civilly, consider-
ing the service he had rendered, and not the base
motives thereof. This man has lately taken to drinking.
He is fat, self-indulgent and crafty, without firmness.
He brought a friend of his to recommend to C., and
some half dozen rough-looking followers. The Afgháns
seem fully as tall and strong as any Europeans. They
are much less ceremonious than the Hindustanís, and
make a very slight salám, just raising the hand to the
head carelessly. C. gave one of the attendants a small
Bakshish, he just took it without any acknowledgment
whatever. Saleh Muhammad prefaced his visit (as is
the custom here from an inferior, or from any native
short of a Rajah) by sending a Nuzzar, which in this
case consisted of a round tray of pomegranates with
scarcely any seeds. They taste, I think, like raw peas,
but are sweeter. In the evening, a much more interest-
ing visitor arrived in the person of my husband's devoted
friend and follower, Muhammad Hasan Khán, who
sealed his fidelity to the British with his blood, and lost
everything by so doing. My husband and he met out-
side and embraced straitly. He is a noble-looking man,
with lofty features, piercing black eyes, and a most
beautiful and varying expression.
Just as I was writing this in came IIasan Khán again.
BATTLE OF FIROSHAHAR.
161
He
The other night he was richly dressed, to-day he wore
a shawl, turban, and white chogah with white cotton
gloves. This snow-white dress contrasted well with his
dark complexion and jet black beard. He told us of
the difficulty which he had here in obtaining any remu-
neration for his losses; they were as great as those C.
encountered on his behalf at home. At last he said to
Mr. Currie, the Secretary to the Government, and some
other person who had made promises to him: "If I
have done bad service give me a paper saying so, and I
will never trouble you again; but if I have done such
and such things then reward me, or I will kill some of
you, or be killed myself." His eyes were fiercer when
he related this than you can well imagine; and yet in
speaking to us his expression is peculiarly sweet.
was with poor Major Broadfoot at Firóshahar, and had
a horse shot under him. Major Broadfoot said to him :
"Now you have done great things with Mackenzie, do
as much with me and I will write him an account of it."
Hasan Khán said he never saw such confusion as in
that battle. He kept by Broadfoot as long as he could,
but at last completely lost himself, caught and mounted
a Sikh horse which was running loose, and for some
time rode hither and thither, not knowing where the
Europeans were, or where the Sikhs-for there was
nothing but dust, noise and smoke, until he came to
the place where the Governor-General was sitting.
Colonel Garden, the Quarter-Master General (who was
suffering great agony from being struck in the side by
a spent ball), and several other officers, were with him:
Hasan Khán sat down among them. Sir Henry Hard-
inge remained for some time in deep thought, with a
very sad face, and at last burst out into an exclamation
to Colonel Garden. Hasan Khán asked what he had
said, and Colonel Garden told him.
"Had one of my
sons fallen, I could have borne it, but the loss of Major
Broadfoot is irreparable."
The I- s, who were with us, greatly admired Hasan
Khán. Sáleh Muhammad sent me an Afghán dinner.
This consisted of three or four round trays, cach contain-
162
AFGHAN BREAD.
ing a Pillau surrounded by smaller dishes: I made a
point of tasting them all. The Pillaus were very
simple, with no spice, and coloured with saffron, which
looks better than it tastes. There were divers dishes
of Kuftas, which are just rissolles (only bun shaped)
with sauce, in which I strongly suspect there was a spice
of assafœtida, of which seasoning the natives are very
fond. However they were not bad. There were vege-
tables not unlike green slimy sca-weed, which C. pro-
nounced very good, and the rest of the party "not very
bad," and little saucers full of sují and milk, extremely
like pap. Sují is a preparation of the very heart of the
wheat. There were also some excellent sweetmeats-
one a kind of compôte of apples, the other made of
apricots.
(6
We have bought a cow for sixteen rupees and a half,
which is reckoned high. She is very pretty, small, but
such a high caste looking thing, with head and legs like
an Arab horse, eyes like a gazelle, a deep hanging dew-
lap, and a hump between her shoulders which is very
becoming. I never saw such beautiful cattle as in this
country. It is necessary for every lady here to be her
own milkman," as Lizzy would say, and to keep her
own fowls and sheep, bazár mutton not being fit to eat,
as, from want of pasture, the sheep which are not shut
up and fed on gram and bhusá, are driven to act as
scavengers, in common with pigs and páriáh dogs;
besides which, when you buy mutton, you generally get
goat. C. breakfasted the other day with Hasan Khán,
who sent me some of the breakfast, Pillau as before, two
kinds of Afghán bread-one, like bad pic-crust, the
other like a bannock with butter in it. The Shahzádah
Shahpúr sent to know when C. was coming to see
him, and accompanied his message by a tray of sugar
candy.
Saturday, March 6th.-We got into our house, which
is just opposite the Janviers, and has a verandah on
three sides. A short distance from the house is a row
of mud rooms, one of which is the cooking-room, and
the others are for those servants who, having no families
WAY OF LIFE.
163
here, do not return to the city at night. The east
verandah is generally full of people; the orderlies,
bearer, tailor, khalási (or tent-pitcher), and any stray
people, sit there. All the principal rooms have fire-
places: the bed-room contains nothing but the bed,
which is a four-footed frame, the foundation for the
mattrass to rest on being broad country tape, inter-
woven, which is very elastic; and I think when the hot
weather comes we shall be obliged to take off the
mattrass and sleep upon that. We have two Khidmat-
gárs, who are properly waiters at table, but who act as
cook and butler; likewise a Massalchi, who helps them;
one Bearer, who is housemaid and valet; one Ayah,
who cleans my room, makes my bed, and waits upon
me; one sweeper; one Bhisti, or water-carrier (the
sweeper takes care of the fowls); one Dhobi, or washer-
man, to whom we pay twelve rupees a month, i.e. twenty-
four shillings, for washing everything we choose to give
him; one chowkedár or watchman, who sleeps in the
north verandah until we get our guard; one Khalási,
or Lascar, to take care of the tents and to do anything
which is required. Each horse has a groom and grass-
cutter. I must explain that godowns are store-rooms,
of which we have four of different kinds. When Jacob
comes he will be general superintendent; see that the
fowls are fed and horses get their allowance of grain,
and that nothing is wasted.
We get up at gun-fire, i.e. early dawn: when dressed,
I go to the store-room and give out flour, sugar, potatoes,
rice, &c., for the day, and order dinner. C. has already
long before gone to parade, which he attends morning
and evening; then I write till he comes home. We
have prayers before breakfast, which is about eight
o'clock, dinner at three, tea at seven, prayers at nine,
and go to bed directly after.
The weather is already too hot for me to leave the
house in the daytime, but in-doors it is very pleasant:
it is now, March 11th, 74° in this room, at half-past
ten A.M., but outside the house it is 82° in the shade.
Boxwallahs, or Kapráwállahs (literally clothmen), often
.
164
PUBLIC SPIRIT OF THE MISSIONARIES.
come; they are like pedlars, and have every kind of
wares, from European muslins, and even velvets to the
merest rubbish.
We went the other day to see the printing-establish-
ment, which is on the Mission premises. They print
Persian, Hindustání, Panjábí, and English.
I saw,
among other Panjábí tracts, "Malan's Deux Vieillards."
They have also a bookbindry. We also saw the boys'
school, where boys of all ranks receive an excellent
education in English and Hindustání: we heard them
go through part of their ordinary studies, by reading,
parsing, and explaining a passage of English prose.
They showed a very good knowledge of grammar, and
also of arithmetic; Mr. Rudolph teaches them.
The American missionaries are full of public spirit.
During the Sutlej campaign they printed Sir H. Hard-
inge's Panjábí proclamations, there being no other
press in India which could do it, and no English press
nearer than Dehli. This involved great personal labour,
as the missionaries themselves are obliged to correct the
press, and even in a great measure to act as compositors,
nevertheless they refused all payment, and I never
heard that the Governor-General showed his sense of
obligation by any donation to the mission.
Saturday, March 13th.-Did I ever tell you that in
this country, if a woman and man walk together, no
matter how wide the road is, the woman always walks
behind? The Hindu women do not veil their faces;
only sometimes, as one passes, they draw their veils
across, but they are not muffled up as Musalmánís are.
A poor Kashmiri came here the other day, by name
Habiq Khán. He was very kind to our officers when
they were in captivity, and lost everything in conse-
quence, and was obliged to leave the country with
Pollock's army, and is now living here on whatever he
can get, instead of being rather a prosperous man as he
formerly was. His melancholy countenance quite
touched me. He brought a little girl with him about
ten years old, dressed in trousers and a veil, with a
little ring in her left nostril, such a Jewish face, and so
"DON'T TELL ME LIES."
165
grave. She returned the next day to bring me a hand-
kerchief which her mother had worked: a little slave-
girl came to take care of her, a poor merry-looking
Hindustání girl of fourteen or thereabouts, who had
lost all the tocs of one foot. She was the daughter of
a Sepahi, who had fallen in the Kábul passes; her
mother had died in the snow and she had been frost-
bitten. This good Kashmirí (Habiq Khán) found her,
took her home, cured her feet, and has kept her ever
since. We found Habiq had seven daughters, and that
they could work; I sent for one, who being grown-up,
was covered from head to foot, wearing linen boots tied
at the knee, and being a complete bundle of clothes.
She is now working for me, and has rather a nice face,
but is very dirty. All the officers of irregular cavalry
nourish beards: Captain F. called here the other day
with a beard longer than my Khitmadgar's.
་
I am giving you miscellaneous scraps of information,
so I will mention that all the bath-rooms contain
several large carthen pitchers and water-bottles of the
same material, with round bodies and long necks, all of
which are filled daily by the Bhistí, who brings the
water in a goat-skin slung at his back. Those huge
Etruscan vases, of which I never could make out the
use, were, doubtless, for the bath-rooms of the ladies of
those days, for they are exactly of the same shape, only
mine arc plain red.
March 16th. We go on so quictly that there is but
little to relate except regarding our visitors. The other
evening a very fine looking Afghán called. This was
Haider Khán, a nephew of Turbaz Khán, the old
Momand Chief, and the very man who conducted Cap-
tain and Mrs. Ferris in safety on their perilous flight.
As a reward this man, the son of a chief, and a gentle-
man both by birth and manner, is now superintendent
of Major Mackeson's camels on a salary of twenty
rupecs a-month.
He told my husband he did not care
so long as he was treated with respect, and had enough
to keep life in him; but he was so ashamed of the
smallness of the salary that he wrote to his uncle that
166
LITTLE CAPTIVES.
he had an appointment of 120 or 150 rupees a-month.
The old chief wrote back "Don't tell me lies; I have
heard that you only get 20 rupees:" whereupon his
nephew, in his answer, asked if he would believe his
enemies rather than himself?" All this our visitor
related with the greatest simplicity, showing what a
complete absence of the very idea of truthfulness there.
must be among his people. He had alighted and left
his horse at some distance from the house, out of respect;
C. called to the groom and made him bring the horse
near. Haider Khán then seized the bridle and endea-
voured to lead the animal further off before mounting;
the matter ended by C. making him get up where he
The Arab we bought at Cawnpore is only four
years old, and its paces quite unformed. It is a dark
grey and very strongly made,-such a nice creature. It
cost 1200 rupees; a good horse is much dearer here
than in England.
was.
March 17th. We heard last night that about fifteen
children of Sepáhís and others who perished in Afghán-
istan have been sent to the care of the missionaries.
They and about ninety others, among them a European
boy, have just been recovered from the Afgháns by the
agency of Murtezá Shah, the same who was the instru-
ment (with Ali Reza Khán Kazzilbash) of bribing Sáleh
Muhammad to bring in the ladies and officers to General
Sale's camp. C. went over to Mr. Rudolph's and saw
the poor children, who can speak nothing but Persian.
One poor little girl has lost both feet: C. and one of
the missionaries carried her over to the Orphan-House,
where she was to sleep. The boys and girls made bitter
lamentations on being separated from each other, but
my husband explained to them that it was only for the
night. To-day I sent the little girls some pomegranates,
and begged Mrs. Rudolph to provide a good meal for
them at our expense. In the evening Mrs. I. and I
walked over to the house and saw them, nine from
Afghánistan and eight of the Orphan School; the latter
quite busy helping the Pillau which they had cooked,
the odour of which was excellent. The Pillau was
GALLANTRY OF USMAN KHAN.
167
brought in a large cauldron and then ladled out, first
into two great dishes and then into brass plates, each of
which served for two or more children. A table-cloth
was spread on the floor, and they all sat round it and
ate with their fingers.
The new comers look as if they had been well fed,
but some of them are in a bad state of health, and
several have lost some of their toes, or been otherwise
injured by the frost. A native lamp, which is just a
piece of wick lying in oil, was all the light they had.
The two youngest of the quondam captive children were
eating together, there was but one morsel of Pillau left
on their plate, and neither liked to take it; at last, the
elder one made it into a ball, popped it into the little
one's mouth, and then coaxed her in the native fashion.
by stroking and patting her. It was very pretty to see
the affectionate way in which it was done. Mr. Ru-
dolph asked a blessing on the meal, and I inwardly
prayed that they might soon be led to feed on the bread
of life, to which, poor children, they are yet utter
strangers.
He
March 18th.—After dinner, Usmán Khán, the Niz-
ám-u-Doulah, or Prime Minister of the late Shah
Shujah, called, a very noble looking elderly man.
it was who warned poor Sir Alexander Burnes of his
danger, and got nothing but an insolent reply for his
pains, which, however, did not prevent his putting him-
self at the head of the King's Hindustáni Paltan (or
regiment), and fighting so gallantly, that had he been
properly seconded by Colonel Shelton and the British
force, the insurrection would, in all probability, have been
nipped in the bud. He was afterwards imprisoned in
the Bálá Hissar by Akbar, and left his country with
Pollock's force.
In spite of his fidelity and rank, and although he was
present at all the battles during the last campaign with
the Sikhs, yet he has only within the last two days got
any reward at all, and now it is only 500 rupees a month!
The people in office here say they have written home
for a larger pension for him.
168
YOU WRITE BOOK-50TH LINES.
There was a ceremonious struggle on parting: C.
insisted on turning his slippers, which he had (as usual)
left in the verandah, the right way for him to put them
on, and then helping him up on his horse.
The other day C. rode out to Basián, to see Major
Mackeson. It is thirty miles off. He rode one stage
on a Sawárí (i.e. riding camel). In coming home the
next evening it was dark, and his horse fell with him
and sprained his ancle by lying on it. I wish
I wish you could
have seen Hásan Khán's concern when he heard of the
accident, how he examined the foot, patted it, and
helped C. about in the most tender manner. Arnica,
however, was the means of curing him in two days.
I must tell you a story which Mr. Cameron wrote us.
A friend of his has just arrived in Calcutta, travelling
for pleasure. A Parsí on board the steamer thus ad-
dressed him :-"You civil?" "No." "You military?"
"No." "Then you write book." Is not this a good
classification of Indian travellers? To skip to quite a
different subject,-a conductor of Artillery was showing
my husband a house in the 50th lines. You must know
that each regiment has a kind of camp allotted to it,
where (if it be a Native corps) the Sepháhís build mud
huts for themselves-a line of huts being appropriated
to each company; if a European regiment, they have
barracks, and the whole, with the officers' houses, are
called the lines. (We have just received a note directed
"Missionary Lines!") Well, as I said, a Conductor
was showing C. the 50th lines, and in so doing remarked
that the fall of the barracks last year, by which so many
perished, seemed like an evident judgment from heaven
upon them, for, said he, "in my whole life I never knew
so wicked a regiment." It is remarkable that when the
Sikhs attacked Loodiana in 1845, they burnt that part
of the cantonments, but did not touch the barracks, and
by thus leaving them uninjured that dreadful catastrophe
took place. The regiment continued as depraved as
ever after this awful event.
On Saturday 20th.-My husband rode out with two
other officers to see the field of Aliwál, which is about
THE BATTLE OF ALIWAL.
169
fourteen miles distant. He returned to breakfast, and
told us of an instance of shameful cowardice which he
had just heard of. When the Sikh battalions were in
full retreat, four regiments of our cavalry, which were
quite fresh, ought to have charged and routed them.
Perry's Ghúrkas had previously taken the village of
Aliwál, where the Sikh left wing had entrenched them-
selves. The Sikhs retreated in confusion towards their
right wing, which was stationed at the village of Bundí,
when the four regiments mentioned made a faint charge,
and after riding over a few stragglers suddenly halted.
The question ran along the line-"Who commands us?"
No one assumed the responsibility-of course the men
became discouraged, and when Colonel Bradford of the
1st cavalry gallopped forward, asking who would follow
him, only a few of his own men and two subalterns
(one of whom was killed) responded.
Young Mr. Blackall, an uncovenanted civil servant
(son of Colonel Blackall) had ridden out from Loodiana
on purpose to be present, and acted as Aide-de-Camp
to Sir Harry Smith, but has been refused even the
medal he had earned, "because it would be a precedent."
One would think the oftener gallantry served as a pre-
cedent the better. Lord Hardinge took care to procure
the medal for Prince Waldemar and his suite, who were
merely spectators-why not for a private gentleman as
well as for a prince? This young man for whom, in
spite of his gallantry, nothing has been done, rode up
to the Political Agent, Captain C., and entreated him
to take the responsibility of ordering the four regiments
to advance. He refused, saying "He did not wish to
burn his fingers by intermeddling." A person named
R—, of the —-th cavalry, afterwards abused Colonel
Bradford for charging, adding with exultation, "How-
ever, none of us followed him, except two Griffs, one of
whom got killed."
These are not solitary instances of cowardice. The
Colonel of Her Majesty's foot, before the guns opened
on the Sikhs the night previous to the battle of Sobráon,
received orders through Lieutenant J-S- to support
VOL. I.
I
170
COWARDICE.
the batteries, and drive in the enemy's picquets. He at
first refused to obey such orders, unless they were given
in writing, and then Lieutenant S. returned with the
order written, desiring the brigade containing Her
Majesty's-nd to do so and so, Colonel having
previously detached the regiment to a little distance,
said that regiment was not in the brigade, and he could
not do it. Lieutenant S. then told him bluntly that
he must recall the regiment, but nothing was done, and
Lieutenant S. advanced without any escort, and put his
guns in position, and it was then discovered that there
were no picquets to be driven in.
Colonel Wheeler's brigade behaved extremely well-
save a Sergeant-major, who was discovered flying out of
shot as fast as he could. In consequence, however, of
his name being, by some extraordinary mistake men-
tioned in dispatches, he was presented with an un-
attached Ensigncy; but on his applying to General
Gilbert for an Adjutancy, the gallant old man, who
knew the facts, refused to forward his application.
Her Majesty's behaved very well at Sobráon, and
the other battles, but not so at Mudkí. At the latter,
their Colonel called out to the commanding officer of a
Company's regiment, "I hope your men do better
than mine, sir: I can't get these scoundrels" (begging
your pardon for repeating the words) "to move an inch."
March 24th.-Last evening we took a walk by moon-
light in the garden, where the perfume of the orange
blossoms was almost too powerful. Indian gardens are
very like those gaufres we used to get in Paris, being
divided into squares by little ridges. They are intersected
by little canals, and have ridges of earth raised round
the roots of each tree or shrub to keep the water in.
As we returned Habíq Khán, the poor Kashmírí, met
us with his whole family, wife, grown-up daughters, little
girls and all. He came to beg C. to state his case to
Col. Lawrence, the resident at Lahore, and as he was
pleading, his wife, who had an infant in her arms,
stooped down and laid hold of my husband's feet. He
raised her, and told her not to do so to man. Her
DUST-STORM.
171
garments were white and clean, those of the daughter
dirty, as usual with Kashmirís; trusting to the darkness,
she did not hold her veil close, and by the light of the
moon she looked very pretty as she smiled at me for
noticing her baby. The little girl, who so often comes,
drew a pretty scull-cap, worked in gold and silver, from
under her veil and offered to me, and the father would
scarcely take anything in return for it.
March 25th. It was very hot and sultry. Mrs. I.
and I had headaches; the children were sick, and there
was every appearance of a storm. In the middle of the
night the I's were obliged to take refuge in the
house. We made a quilt into a bed for one child, and
put the other into a basket. Mrs. I. had half of my
bed. Mr. I. got a Charpaí, and C. slept in the palkí.
The wind was blowing with such fury that C. sent the
whole guard and the watchmen to hold the tent-ropes,
for fear the tent should come down before the I——'s
could get out of it. It was a dust-storm, and had per-
fectly filled the house with sand. Everything was a
mass of fine dust, so thick that some papers which lay
on my table were all but invisible. Towards morning
rain fell and it became calm, but the condition in which
we were on rising was lamentable; water was turned to
mud, our brushes and combs might as well have been
dragged along the road; and we were all occupied half
the day in washing our hair. Rain fell at intervals,
and it is now much cooler.
((
Hasan Khán came here on Sunday morning, and
while talking said to C., in a soothing way, "Your
religion and ours are very much the same. C. said
No, there is a great deal of difference," and lent him
a Persian Testament, marking the Sermon on the
Mount, which Hasan, who is a very poor scholar, pro-
mised to get read to him. He came again the other day
and began the subject, by saying he had heard it read,
and it was "very good; but," added he, "the Sahib
Lóg do not live according to their book. I have only
seen one or two that do so." C. told him it was very
true, but that still there were some here, and many at
1 2
172
MUHAMMAD AKBAR KHAN'S DEATH.
home, who tried to walk after the Word of God. To
walk is the literal Persian expression. Is it not strange
that the inconsistency of nominal Christians should be
so palpable to a Múliammadan, and yet that they them-
selves remain so blind to it?
March 27th.-Much cooler and very cloudy, so we
hope for more rain. A Boxwalla has just been here:
they are a sort of pedlars, and have from two to six
coolies or porters carrying their boxes. When anything
is wanted, one must send for a Kaprawalá or write a
note to one of the two or three shops in the city gene-
rally kept by Armenians. They contain a little of
everything.
We get four quails for threepence, and a brace of
wild ducks for a shilling. Atta Múhammad an Afghán,
whom C. formerly knew as a merchant, but who is now
Náib Rassaldar, i. e. native second in command of
Captain Fisher's Horse, called last night; he said
Afghánistan was soaked in blood. When we first arrived
Hasan Khán informed us of Muhammad Akbar's death.
It was said that he had been poisoned by Shujah-u-
Doulah, the murderer of Shah Sujah, but it is now
known that he died of fever brought on by excessive
drinking, for when he ceased to be a Ghází, he sought
intoxication from wine instead of fanaticism. Our friend
last evening told us that when he was dying he sent for
his father-in-law, Múhammed Shah Khán Ghiljye, and
said to him-"While I lived I have protected you, and
no one could hurt you, but my father hates you, so now
look to your own safety." Muhammad Shah Khán
followed his advice, betook himself to the hills, and is
now in open rebellion. The road between Kábul and
Peshawer is therefore closed.
I was much amused at our visitor's gesticulations;
he was an immensely broad-shouldered, powerful man,
not so tall, but probably as thick as Og, King of Bashan,
and when he was descanting on his own patience and
meekness, he crossed his arms on his breast and leant
his head and bushy black beard on one shoulder with
such a ludicrous expression of extreme gentleness and
A BERSERKER—TRACTS.
173
sweetness that he reminded me of Friar Tuck enacting
the devout monk. C. laughed outright; he told me
that just at that moment he thought of a story which
Captain Fisher had related of this very man. Two
parties of Sepáhis were fighting-the Náib Rassaldár
went out to quell the tumult, and in the mêlée got a cut
across his shoulders with a whip. This roused his ire
to such a degree, that, seizing a huge tent peg for a
club, he laid about him with such fury that both parties
ceased their strife and fled from him with might and
main. Not satisfied with this, he pursued them with
increasing rage, when the guard was ordered to seize
him, but were speedily sent flying back again by this
perfect Berserker. Captain Fisher, not knowing who it
was that was making this terrible uproar, despatched a
whole troop to capture him, but it was of no use, he
demolished the troop, scattered them, and marched
about like a lion rampant, I suppose until the rage went
out of him. Now the recollection of this with such a
huge meek face before one was too much for any one's
gravity. He is a very good-humoured man, but Afgháns,
like Highlanders, when roused, are untameable.
Mr. Porter came in to get a cup of tea on Sunday,
after evening service. There is a great mela or fair
going on here, and we have lent our tents to the Mis-
sionaries—the large one to preach in, the small one to
distribute books and tracts from. Mr. Porter told us
that the people come most eagerly for books, asking for
particular ones, such as the "Epistle to the Romans."
A Summary of the Gospels in verse, published at
Madras, seems a great favourite. Many of them, to
show the exact book they want, recite a page or two at
the top of their lungs. He says they sometimes find
natives who, from reading the Scriptures, are nearly as
well acquainted with them as the Missionaries them-
selves, and others who are intellectually Christians.
Once, at a place about seven marches from this, he and
his native coadjutor gave a portion of Scripture to a
Fáqir. This man had been all over India on pilgrim-
174
TEMPERANCE.
ages, secking peace and finding none; the word of God
proved itself like a two-edged sword, for about two years
after he came to the Missionaries, professed the faith
of the Gospel, and has been for the last five years a
Catechist at Sabathu. All the Missionaries here are
teetotallers, and Mrs. Janvier told me that in America
not one minister in a hundred of any denomination
has intoxicating liquor of any kind in his house. We
might well take pattern of them in that particular,
especially in Scotland, where the abominable custom of
giving a glass of whiskey to half the poor people who
come to one's house is a fruitful source of sin. How
many thousands perish annually from drink in our own
beloved land, encouraged by those who take wine and
beer in moderation; and how very very few either of gen-
tlemen or ladies do take wine in real moderation! How
many arc as fit for work, as clear-headed, as even tem-
pered, as fit for meditation and prayer, after dinner as
before! How much time after dinner and after lunch
is wasted, because we have taken a glass of wine, and
cannot therefore apply to study or business! I have long
thought we should abstain from wine and beer (for
many ladies in India drink both) in order to redeem the
time-to keep our bodies in subjection, and because, by
denying ourselves this expensive luxury, we should be
able to minister more largely to the wants of others;
for I suppose there are few men in India whose cellars
do not cost them from 60l. to 100l. a year at the very
least, without reckoning any "company."
Friday, April 2nd. Mrs. Iy and I went over to
the chapel, to see one of the orphan girls married to a
teacher in the Sunday school: they are both nominal
Christians. There was dinner at Mr. Rudolph's in one
room for us and for two of the native catechists and
their wives, and on the floor in the next apartment a
feast for the bride and bridegroom, the orphan girls,
and divers others. It was pretty to see them enjoying
themselves, and to mark the difference of expression in
the little captives, who now look as merry as any, and
AFGHAN DRESS.
175
seem at home. Colonel Lawrence has proposed giving
200 rupees to the school, for the board and education
of each of the rescued children.
Wednesday, April 11th.-Jacob arrived early on
Monday, to our great satisfaction. Yesterday, Hasan
Khán came while we were at dinner, and one of his
men laid a covered tray on the floor, which excited
my curiosity, especially as Hasan Khán said nothing
about it. When we had finished, the cover was
removed, and a very handsome Afghán dress appeared,
laid on the top of a tray of sugar-candy and roses, which
Muhammad Hasan had put in hand directly he heard
of C.'s arrival in the country. He then began to dress
him in it it consisted of a purple silk skirt, a dark cloth
coat, exquisitely embroidered in gold, red paijámahs, a
shawl girdle, and a green turban. It is a most becoming
costume. All the assistants cried in chorus, "Mubárak
bâshad!" "May you be fortunate!" which they do
on putting on anything new, or on mounting a new
horse. Bacdoollah always devoutly says, "Bismillah,'
"In the name of God," when C. put his foot in the
stirrup; a thing few Muhammadans would do to a
European. I never saw any gold embroidery equal
that on this dress: it was done in Múhammad Hasan's
own house, under the superintendence of a Kashmiri
tailor. Of course we shall have to give them some
handsome return for such a present, for it could not
be refused without a complete breach with Hasan Khán,
who looked so gratified on the occasion that it was quite
pleasant to see him. He said, as they were both well
made men, he had had the dress cut on his own pattern,
and that was why it fitted so exactly."
66
((
دو
The Afgháns are certainly a very handsome race.
Hasan Khan's Múnshí, or man of letters," came in
to read a letter of thanks from his patron to Mr. Mills,
of the Indian House, comparing him to Plato and
Lokhman, to which Hasan Khán listened with a face of
simplicity that convinced me he knew as much of one
as the other. The said Munshi and another attendant
had most beautiful features; I never saw a more perfect
176
AN OLD FOLLOWER.
nose than the Munshi's, and Muhammad Hasan's Pesh-
khidmat, or henchman, whom he sent the other day
with his magnificent donation of eighty rupees for the
poor Highlanders, was one of the finest specimens of
manly beauty in its full maturity which could be
imagined. Hasan Khán then told us that one of my
husband's old Jezailchís was with him, Shabad Khán by
name: he was one of those fifteen who were cut down
in the attack on the Shah Bagh at Kábúl; thirteen
were slain outright, but this one recovered, and C.
showed me a frightful scar across his right wrist.
When he was introduced, C. warmly shook hands
with him, and he in return pressed his old commander's
hand to his forehead and eyes. He was greatly pleased
when I brought my copy of "Eyre's Journal," and C.
read the names of all his Jezailchís which I had written
on the fly-leaf.
دو
Hasan Khan then began to recapitulate Shábad's
enormities; how he would spend twenty rupees in a day,
and never send any to his aged father and mother; how,
if he were not a man of his own tribe and his own place,
he would have cast him off entirely, and he shook his
garment vehemently; how he had beaten him, and said
to him, "Begone, let me never see you more ! but
that he stuck to him like his girdle. During all this time,
Shabad Khán, who was sitting by, made such gestures
of injured and belied innocence, that I could hardly
refrain from laughing; at last he said, "You had better
kill me, Khán, than give me such a bad character; be-
sides," added he, "not a word of it is true!" Hasan
Khán did not seem at all disturbed at being thus accused
of coining about a dozen falsehoods, but went on to
relate, that this man accompanied him to Calcutta, but
on their return, another retainer of his being about to
join him, who had a blood feud with Shábad, he told
him of it, and said, "You had better depart, for he will
kill you. ""
Now, Muhammad Hasan having sent his enemy on
a message to Kábúl, Shabád Khan has emerged from his
retreat and rejoined him; but when his foe comes back
i
DRAWINGS.
177
he must vanish again. My husband said, "This is an
abominable custom; cannot peace be made between
them?" Hasan Khán said that it was very bad, but it
was the custom, and peace could not be made unless
blood was spilt.
I went away to dress, and on my return found a
Rassaldár had also called, and C. was showing them
some of my sketches of the Nypalese Sirdár and others,
which they admired, and cried, "Wonderful! It is a
great science! The Feringhi are wonderful people!
Wonderful that the Mem Sahib should do it herself.
Wah! wah!" and then wagged their heads wisely.
In our drive passed a camp of Sepáhís on furlough:
they always go in bands for safety; four or five have been
murdered and robbed here since we came, so these have
sentries.
It
Wednesday. The senior Súbádar of our regiment
came, a fine-looking, white-bearded old man, to whom,
at C.'s request, I gave a rose, and told him that, as my
father was an old soldier, and I hoped my husband
would live to be one, I felt an affection for old soldiers
in general. This small speech C. translated, and the
old man was greatly pleased, and told us he had two
daughters (married to native officers) and five sons.
is a great compliment for a native to speak of the female
members of his family, for they never do so except to
those of whose respectability of character they have a
high idea. I never saw more willing and obliging
servants than ours; they have never yet made the least
difficulty about anything: our household is almost exclu-
sively Muhammadan, and the two Khitmadgars have
been up to Afghánistan and Bokhára, which has enlight-
ened their minds.
Thursday morning, C., Mrs. I. and I were at break-
fast when Muhammadan Hasan Khán's ladies arrived.
They came together in a close palkí, not muffled up, and
one of Hasan Khán's retainers carefully shut the doors
after them. One was young and pretty, with a very
sweet mouth, something like Lizzy's, only fuller lips;
she had very lively, bright, expressive, large dark eyes,
I 3
178
AFGHAN LADIES.
Her
tinged with antimony, beautiful white teeth, with rosy
lips, a colour in her cheek, and a complexion not darker
than a Spaniard's or Italian's. She wore a little scull
cap, embroidered by herself in gold and silver braid,
her front hair in little thin curls pasted on her forehead,
the rest of her tresses hanging behind in two plaits.
She had a sort of loose shirt of rose-coloured satin
reaching to the hips, with full sleeves and fastened at the
throat, very wide green satin trousers, so full that they
looked like a petticoat, and a row of silver bangles six
inches deep on each arm, finished by a gold one, silver
chains round her neck, pretty gold earrings, something
like the Genoese filagree, but the top of each ear dis-
figured and made to hang over by the weight of half a
dozen large gold rings. She had a crescent-shaped
ornament of enamels and pearls (over the left eyebrow)
and a little pearl thing like an earring top stuck in one
nostril. She wore a large yellow gauze veil, and the
palms of her hands were stained with henna.
companion was older, with handsome features. though
rather too much marked. She was dressed in the same
manner, except that she had no cap, and the bosom of
her purple satin tunic was covered on each side with
half rupee pieces, put on just like military medals, close
to each other. The veil was deep red bordered with
gold, and like the other's large enough to envelope her
whole person. She is the mother of a beautiful little
girl, Hasan Khán's only living child. He has lost four,
two boys and two girls. They were very affectionate
and lively in manner, and we got on very well, especially
after Mrs. Rudolph came over to interpret. And it was
evident that Hasan Khán gossips with his wives of
everything he sees or hears. They inquired what rela-
tion Mrs. I. was to my husband, and whether I had
sister, and thought it very sad she should be in England
when I was here. I showed them different pieces of
work which they admired. We looked at each other's
dress, they examined my rings and hands, seemingly
surprised that they were not stained. At last, each
gently took hold of the skirt of my gown, pulled it up
any
PERSIAN STYLE.
179
a little way, and seemed to marvel at the corded petti-
coat, that they then raised a very little, and on seeing
my under garments cried approvingly "ah!" I never
was more amused.
They would not take tea, but ate some pán and
stayed about an hour and a half. We sent all the men
away from the verandah, and deposited them in their
palkís. They did not seem to mind the man who came
with them seeing them, perhaps he is a kinsman, but
he took care to summon the bearers only when they
were safely ensconced in their box. Hasan Khán rode
up just at that moment, I think he wondered what his
wives had been doing so long. His Munshí comes to
read Persian with my husband in the evening. They
have been reading the Sermon on the Mount in
"Gladwin's Persian Munshi; " and the scribe not only
admired the Persian style exceedingly, but showed a
perfect comprehension of the meaning of that divine.
discourse. He said the style of the Persian Testament
was very inferior, that was full of awkwardnesses, but
this was most beautiful.
I send you a copy of a letter I have just written.
"MY DEAR MR.
66
"Loodiana, April 15th, 1847.
Having extracted a quantity of information from
my husband during our evening's walk yesterday, I sit
down to fulfil my promise of giving you an account of
'raising a regiment.' The first thing C. had to do was
to understand half a dozen contradictory orders, one of
which told him he was to get one-third of his native
officers from the Line; another said that such men
having been found useless, had been sent back by the
officers commanding the Sikh regiments, which had
been raised in the first instance. He was directed to
form his regiment half of Sikhs and the other half of
Mussalmáns and Hindus; Brahmans excepted, as they
are generally at the bottom of all mutinies and conspi-
racies.
"He found on arriving that hardly any but Múham-
1
180
RAISING A REGIMENT.
madáns had been enlisted, with the exception of one
hundred men, the very refuse of the Ambálla Police
Battalion lately disbanded, many of whom were of the
caste very properly excluded by Lord Hardinge, but
now forced into the regiment by his express order.
"He then sent proclamations in Panjabi and Hin-
dustání, throughout the neighbouring villages and
country (as he was directed to do), stating that such a
regiment was to be raised-the advantages of enlisting,
seven rupees a month pay for Sepáhi, &c., &c., and
inviting men to enter so glorious a service. Not quite
350 men were collected when we arrived, and desertions
were incessant, as many as ten in one night. C. made
the men a speech, in which he set forth the disgrace
of deserting, and I suppose hinted at the penalties
thereof.
They have since diminished, although a few days
ago one of the cooks eloped, which he must have done,
like Lydia Languish, for love of the proceeding itself,
as he could easily have got his discharge. In all new
regiments desertions are very frequent at first, owing to
numbers enlisting who do not know their own minds.
"Lord Hardinge's idea in raising these four new
regiments, was, that they would absorb the old Sikh
soldiers; and, in order to carry out this plan without
expense to the State, he disbanded thousands of our
faithful Hindustánís. Hardly any of the old Sikh
soldiers choose to enter our service, their habits of
military license unfit them for our discipline-their
national and military pride disinclines them to serve
their conquerors, and above all, they are agriculturists,
and always returned to their field-labours during their
periods of furlough; they require, therefore, stronger
inducements than we have to offer, to make them quit
their plough for the sword, or rather the musket.
"Moreover, they all wear their hair at full length,
which length I am assured commonly extends from
three feet to six feet, and sometimes even to eleven
feet!-four feet of hair is frequent. The whole is formed
into a knot on the top of the head. Now, "here's a
FORAGE CAPS.
181
coil” which effectually prevents a man from wearing a
very shallow forage cap; and, as Lord Hardinge gives
them leave to keep their hair and beards, neither of
which they ever cut, and at the same time insists on
their wearing this obnoxious topí; the veterans positively
refuse to have anything to do with a service which
makes a saucer-cap a sine quá non.
"Some of the finest recruits draw back, and will not
enlist when the topí is shown to them; and truly the
effect of it is most absurd. C. has risked the safety of
his Glengarry bonnet, by sending it to head-quarters,
with a request to be allowed to give similar ones to his
men.
"All the refuse of Loodiana apply for service; two
thieves gravely offered themselves the other day, and
when C. could not refrain from laughing in their faces
at the effrontery of their proposition, their tribe being
notoriously a caste of thieves, they burst out laughing
too. If he like the appearance of any that come, he
has them measured; he has fixed the standard at five
feet seven inches, and takes none under that, except for
special reasons, as in the case of a gallant little Ghúrká,
who was at Charékár, in Mr. Haughton's regiment, and
who, in company with a fellow soldier, volunteered to
carry intelligence to the garrison at Kábúl, and per-
formed the task, passing throught the very heart of the
enemy. He was severely wounded, and afterwards
served with the Sappers and Miners, who, subsequently
to Captain Laing's death at Behmárú, were under my
husband's command. You cannot imagine a stronger
contrast than that between the little square, sallow-com-
plexioned Chinese-looking Ghúrka, and the tall, flexible
Rajput Havildar-major.
"If the men are of the proper height, they are sent
with a roll of ther names, ages, &c., to the surgeon, who
pronounces on their fitness for service. They are then
put to drill, and when perfect in facing, marching,
extension motions, &c., ought to get muskets and learn
the manual and platoon exercise. I have only just found
out that the manual exercise consists in learning to handle
182
THE RECRUIT'S PROGRESS.
the gun in dumb show-the platoon exercise in learning
to fire it.
(6
6
Every thing that is required for the men must be
indented for; that is, C. signs an application for such
and such things. If it is an emergent indent,' he gets
the articles, but may be obliged to return them if the
military board does not think them needful.
"The military board, in their corporate capacity, are
odious to every one, from the difficulties and obstacles
they oppose to everything. The only public personage
who equals them in unpopularity is the unfortunate
military auditor-general, whose title is the signal for a
chorus of vituperation, for he is always cutting people's
lawful pay, retrenching the same sums two or three
times over, and recovering from three or four different
persons that which only one is answerable for. C. has
applied for muskets, numbers of his men being now
ready for the manual exercise, but there are no belts
in the magazine here, so that they cannot get any.
"This being harvest time, when the whole population
are fully employed, recruiting goes on very slowly.
Different native commissioned and non-commissioned
officers are out in the district recruiting, and each
recruit receives two annas' worth of food a-day. Now,
when they arrive at Loodiana a large proportion are
found unfit for service, and the auditor-general always
disputes the payment of money expended in this manner,
although the expense is unavoidable. This, however,
is not so much his fault as that of the rules by which
he is fettered.
"No pay abstracts of either officers or men have yet
been passed, but the Treasury advance whatever money
is needed, on the responsibility of the Commandant ;*
and Captain W. has had so much trouble and expense
owing to these arrangements, that he ends a most
humorous note of grievances to my husband, by saying,
'Catch me raising another regiment for them, that's
* When the regiment received the first issue of pay it was eight months
in arrears, but they wore afterwards paid, like the rest of the Bengal
army, every month.
REGIMENTAL BAZAR.
183
all!' It is indeed very hard work, especially where,
as in C.'s case, he has it all to do by himself. He rises
before dawn to go to parade, and often cannot get back
to breakfast. Then Native officers, Havildars, Sikhs,
Afgháns, and Ghurkas, come pouring in; official letters,
indents, ad libitum, have to go out; and in the evening
he is at parade again until tea-time.
"The new Adjutant has not yet joined. The Com-
missariat dapartment is thus managed: A chowdrí is
appointed at the head of the regimental Bazár. Ad-
vances are made to enable him to furnish funds to such
shopkeepers as are willing to settle in the regiment, and
he is responsible for the quality of the provisions sold.
The Sepáhis are generally required to supply themselves
from their own Bazár; and, as they pay a little more
than they would do in the town, the extra profit induces
the Baniáhs to go with the regiment wherever it may
be ordered.
"C. turned out the first Baniáhs who came, for
cheating the soldiers. They consequently endeavoured
to form a conspiracy with all the other shopkeepers in
Loodiana, to prevent his having a Bazár at all, and the
men not understanding the advantage of one, said they
would rather receive their two annas daily to buy for
themselves. C. managed to get two or three old
Sepáhis, who had turned Baniáhs, to settle in his lines,
and took much pains to explain to the native officers,
commissioned and non-commissioned, the use of a
Bazár, desiring them to propound the same to the men.
He also issued an order on the subject, which, after
being read at three successive roll-calls, so entirely
convinced the recruits that they rushed tumultuously
to the shops, and well nigh plundered them.
"They are now marched up by companies, and cach
receives his allowance in due order; and, if the shop-
keepers give them credit beyond the amount of two
annas per diem, it is at their own risk. Some of the
men, principally the Hindus, save a good deal out of
their subsistence money. C. means to have ten Baniáhs,
184
CHAPITRE DES CHAPEAUX.
one for each company. Each shop contains everything
the Sepáhis require in the way of food.
"All the native officers who have been out recruiting
are in disgrace, for they have brought in the scum of
the country, and pocketed the public money, by the
following process: They send word they have enlisted
one hundred men, and require subsistence money ac-
cordingly; then they bring in fifty, and declare the
other fifty have deserted en route, and within ten days
twenty-five of the remainder have taken their leave.
For the latter desertions there is no doubt that the
topí is greatly to blame. C. says he feels inclined to
sing the old song of Rogues all,' from morning till
night, and declares that the vulgar proverb 'mad as a
hatter,' is fully exemplified in the present case."
(
I insert a fragment of another letter on the same
subject.
"(
My dear Mr.
1
"Loodiana, May 13th, 1847.
"I must add a postscript to my Chapitre des Cha-
peaux, as I think my letter touching the Frontier
Brigade and the Topí may be justly styled.
In the first place Lord Hardinge, considering the
Frontier Brigade as a Political Body, has placed it under
the Political Department, at the same time constantly
referring matters relating to it to the Commander-in-
Chief and military authorities, who, rejoicing in the
conviction that everything will get into confusion with-
out their superintendence, refuse to have anything to
say to it. C. applied for tents. The Governor-General
directed that the regiment should only have half the
allowance, because when completed, more than half would
seldom be assembled at once, as it is his intention
to employ them in treasure-parties and gaol-guards.
Luckily C. had got the tents before this answer arrived,
but if he were to leave, he would have to restore all but
the scanty portion allowed.
"C. has represented that the regiment must be col-
lected together and disciplined before they can possibly
DRUMMERS DISALLOWED.
185
be detached on guards or treasure parties, and in the
meantime one half of them cannot lie in the open air-
the hot winds are blowing-the rains are coming on,
and, of course, the men will desert.
"He then applied for hutting-money. The regiment
is at present occupying some old lines, and the mud
huts of their predecessors could easily be put in repair
and thatched for them at a very small expense.
This
was refused, although granted to all the regiments of
the line, to which Lord Hardinge is so anxious to assi-
milate the Frontier Brigade. It was stated that the
men must do it at their own expense, but the political
authorities might afford them any help in their power
by convict labour, &c. The men have not received a
farthing of pay beyond bare subsistence money (two
annas a day), so how can they do it at their own ex-
pense? and it turns out that no convicts can be spared,
and the political authorities have no other assistance to
give.
66 Again the Governor-General writes that Khalásís
are not authorized* for these corps, and has required
the commanding officer of one of the other regiments
to pay twelve drummer-boys himself, saying that he
had no authority for enlisting them, but allowing them
a drum-major had been inserted by mistake in the com-
plement of the regiment; I should say that the drummer-
boys were the natural and necessary consequents of the
drum-major, and that therefore Government ought to
pay for their own mistake. They also refused buglers,
but afterwards allowed two per company, and lo! no
less than three of their own documents, previously
issued, authorise the entertainment of both Khalásís
and Buglers! How can raw recruits be expected to
pitch and take charge of their own tents, especially
when all the other regiments have Khalásís to do it for
them? The Commanding Officers have been invested
with the powers of Joint Magistrates, and a Munshí is
* Long afterwards, in consequence of vehement representations,
Khalasis were at length allowed.
186
HASAN KHAN'S FAVOURITE WIFE.
indispensable, not only to take down proceedings but
also to write all Hindustání letters and papers connected
with the regiment. The last orders from head-quarters
disallowed the Munshi, so that C. has to pay his salary
as well as that of the Khalásís out of his own pocket.
The men have not yet got their arms, and the pay
abstracts of February are not yet passed; and altogether
in point of pay, and especially of pecuniary liabilities,
C. is in a worse position now than he was at Peshawur
in 1840, besides having far more fatiguing and haras-
sing duty."
Hasan Khán, who constantly comes to talk or consult
with C. to the great trial of his equanimity, for he sits
for hours when my husband is overpowered with public
business, told him the other day how anxious he was to
be rejoined by his wives who are in Afghánistan-by
one of them in particular. He said she was of noble
birth, and her wisdom and prudence something extra-
ordinary. He said he kept his wives very retired, and
never allowed them to pay visits. The pretty one, who
came the other day, is the daughter of a man whom he
does not consider his equal in any way, and whom he
does not respect, and during the four years she has been
married, he has never suffered her to visit her father.
She and his other wife were, therefore, very much
astonished when he told them they were to pay a visit
to me; but then, added he to C., "You are like my
brother, or my other self." C. showed him the passage
in Titus, where women are exhorted to be keepers at
home, and the Munshí read it to them. He came again
the other evening and said he was going to Simla to pay
a visit to the Lord Sahib. He asked for letters to
Colonel Garden and others, and said he thought it pro-
bable he should be requested to raise a thousand horse
in the district of Peshawur; but added, "they won't
obey me, I must have some European gentlemen, or
otherwise all these Afgháns will be at sixes and sevens.
Now I shall tell them that I won't serve under any-
body but you." C. advised him not to say anything of
the sort.
HIS JOURNEY-OUR GARDEN.
187
He came yesterday, the 16th, to take leave. He wore
boots, and a tight fitting embroidered "chapkan" (coat)
with pistols and sword. As he sprang into the saddle
and dashed away, his Munshí and attendants checked
their horses to shake my husband's hand. The Munshí
had a round shield slung at his back. One of the other
horsemen had a long scarlet spear, and there were one
or two fleet men on foot, and as they went off at full
speed, there was such a pawing and prancing, such cur-
vetting, caricolling, bounding, and behádering of horses
and men as you never beheld. They teach their horses
to rear and prance for effect, and very good the effect
is in a picturesque point of view. My husband was
advising Hasan Khán to lay by some of his pension.
Oh," answered he, "it would be a shame for me not
to spend all the money I have." This exactly expresses
the usual Eastern idea.
((
The
Thursday, April 15th.-We went to Miss Eckford's
wedding, which took place at ten o'clock A.M.
heat was extreme. All the gentlemen were as usual in
full uniform, and nobody wept, which was a great com-
fort. I walk in the garden every morning before
sunrise, and most delightful it is, the air is so pure and
fresh. The garden is on a slope, and consists of four
wide parallel walks intersected by as many narrower
ones, each path being bordered on both sides by channels
for water, and by trees and bushes of roses, pomegranates,
hollyhocks, &c., the intermediate squares (the gaufres)
being occupied by crops of vegetables, barley, and other
things. This is the season in which roses are in the
greatest profusion, and we get a beautiful bouquet daily,
The pomegranate-trees are lovely with their gorgeous
blossoms, and the scent of the double jessamine is quite
overpowering. I do not know if this jessamine exists.
in England.
Do you remember that we used as children to amuse
ourselves by sticking the fallen blossoms of the jessamine
into those which were growing on the bush? This same
freak has been performed by nature in the flower I
speak of, and you can pull the inner one out; cach has
188
ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE.
seven or eight petals. I often have a light wicker chair
carried into the garden and enjoy reading. It makes me
think of that verse-
"O God, how good, beyond compare!
If thus thy meaner works are fair,
If thus thy beauties gild the span
Of ruined earth and guilty man,
How glorious must those mansions be
When thy redeemed shall dwell with thee!"
Innumerable passages of Scripture derive fresh force
in this country; for instance, in reading the first Psalm
the other morning, "He shall be like a tree planted by
the rivers of waters, &c.," on raising my eyes I beheld
every tree in the garden planted by a water-course,
without which, in this burning clime, it would not bring
forth its fruit in due season, but its leaf would wither;
and I felt how forcible an emblem it was of the absolute
necessity of never failing supplies of the water of life,
for the spiritual life and fruitfulness of the plants of the
Lord's vineyard.
The other day I saw, for the first time, the Eastern
mode of watering a garden. The well is at some dis-
tance at the top of a little rise; a bullock skin is drawn
up by a pair of little oxen, who run down a short slope
with much glee and thus raise the water; they are then
loosened from the rope and walk up the hill again,
while the water is poured into a channel from whence
it flows down to the garden, and runs from one little
sloping channel to another; the málí or gardener
carefully removing all obstructions from its path. It
makes one understand the expression, "He watereth it
with his foot; " for with the foot you easily open a
passage through the little ridges of earth, or bar the
progress of the tiny stream. So ought we to remove
obstacles-our besetting sins, our worldly pleasures
which hinder the free course of Divine grace in our
souls.
I was much amused yesterday in watching the
patient, quiet camels I was sketching. All creatures in
India appear to me much better sitters than at home,
PETS HEAT.
189
and have a much greater faculty of keeping still: cows,
camels and horses will remain some minutes in the
same attitude without moving an inch, so do the people:
the very birds sit tranquilly and meditate on their
spray. A state of violent action and excitement, and
one of perfect repose, seem the two alternatives under
which men and animals naturally exist in the land of
the sun.
Our young Arab Motí is the most quiet, sleepy, lazy
creature possible, as almost all Arabs are when not
roused. He is as gentle as a lamb, and lets me stroke.
his eyes, and pull his ears, and coax him as much as I
like. I have divers pets: a pretty little tiny red calf
which I feed every morning; it nibbles my fingers and
licks my hand with its rough tongue, and then makes a
demonstration as if it would toss C. Then there are
two handsome Panjábí black goats, very large, nearly as
high as the calf, with long hanging ears, who come for
a bit of bread every evening, and the pretty little kid
of one of them. The ears are white, and the rets of the
creature perfectly black and like the softest velvet.
They brought me a new-born kid this afternoon, whose
ears I measured: they were fully twelve inches long,
and will be eighteen in all probability when it is full
grown. One of my goats is of a peculiar breed, and
has what they call bands,-two pendants, like small
ears, from its throat,
I have also a dumbá, or Afghán sheep, that was
brought on a charpaí, carried by men, all the way from
Firozpúr. Its tail is more than a foot wide, and consists
entirely of fat, which is considered a great delicacy. It
is a very handsome white ram that eats out of my hand,
and follows me into the house.
It is becoming warmer daily. Our phankahs are put
up, and we have one pulled while we are at dinner; we
must soon have it all day. The poor people in Calcutta
had the thermometer at 96° under a phankah more
than a month ago; and at Allahabad Mr. W. wrote us
a fortnight since he was sitting without his coat,
although his phankah was going. Citrons, which were
190
EVOLVING THE IDEA OF A CAMEL.
hanging ripe on the trees at Benáres on the first of
February, are still quite small and green here, and
peas are not yet entirely over. We have some fields
close to the garden, but the country generally is most
barren.
C. drove me the other evening into the country, and
congratulated himself on the excellence of the road,
which, after all, was such a break neck one, that our
old Swiss coachman would have pronounced only fit to
go bird-nesting. The country was just a waste of
sand, like driving through a desert. We met many
people returning from their labour,-many of the
women with great loads of straw on their heads; some
of them tall and handsome, and all of them with an
excellent carriage and free step, their dress quite
classical.
Hasan Khan has left C. in charge of his household.
On the first of the month he is to get his private signet,
draw his pay, and supply money to his people. It
makes one's heart ache to think that such a man as
Hasan Khán should be a Muhammadan. I was inter-
rupted by a dust-storm, which made it nearly dark and
so hot that I fell asleep; and so overpowered was Mr.
I., that after tea he lay down on the floor and went to
sleep, too. I must tell you a story, which was quoted
from Baron Aruim in a number of the "British and
Foreign Quarterly Review," and which I thought of the
whole time I was drawing the camels yesterday.
:
In order to illustrate the characteristic modes of
acting of the English, French, and Germans, Baron A.
said, that one of cach nation was required to draw a
camel the Frenchman went to the Jardin des Plantes,
and the next day brought you a clever though not very
accurate sketch of a camel; the Englishman takes his
passage by the next steamer for Egypt, and there studies
camels thoroughly, and makes drawings from nature in
every possible attitude, for a year or so, at the end of
which time he presents you with a painting so perfectly
true to nature, that it is the camel itself; the German
shuts himself up in his chamber, in order to educe the
DEPRAVITY OF HINDUISM.
191
idea of the camel out of the depths of his moral consci-
ousness. By the last accounts he was still at it. Is
not this an admirable little tale? In the same review,
a Frenchman gravely asserts, that the reason why so
few railway accidents occur in Germany is on account
of the "Esprits épais" of the people!
The other morning I saw two officers shooting quails,
the place of dogs being supplied by beaters, who take
up their position ten paces from each other and then
close in, thus putting up the birds; they had also
hawks with them. I saw them throw a dead quail into
the air, and the hawk caught it before it fell; but it is a
cruel sport, I think, to let loose one creature upon
another; and moreover, the beaters greatly injure the
corn-fields, and the poor people are generally afraid to
complain.
It is impossible to describe the corruption of some of
the courts in this country. The munshís, chaprásis or
messengers, and other officials about a European judge,
agent or magistrate, extort bribes from all who have
causes, sometimes under pretence of speaking to the
Sahib, sometimes under pretext that the bribe is for the
Sahib himself. If none, or not sufficient, is given them,
they prevent the proper witnesses from being called,
keep them out of the way, and with unimaginable dex-
terity defeat the ends of justice. A man will give
himself the airs of being high in favour and having
great influence with his master, simply from the fact
of being admitted into his writing-room, and will pre-
tend he has pleaded the cause of a suitor, when he
would not dare to open his lips on the subject. Of
course an indolent man in office is the cause of unspeak-
able injustice.
It is, I believe, almost impossible to find a native
who is either truthful or pure-minded. How can they
be so with their impure creeds? You know the ten-
dencies of Muhammadanism, but you are not aware of
the unspeakable abominations of Hinduism, which are
intertwined with all their religious rites. The "Philo-
sophy of the Plan of Salvation" shows that man can
192
THE WAFA BEGUM.
never be better than that which he worships, and if so,
how thoroughly must the native mind be polluted by a
faith which, I suppose, surpasses all others in depravity.
On this account it is ruin to a child to be kept in this
country, unless the mother can have it always with her,
and yet, knowing this, half the parents in India commit
the sole charge of their children, even girls, to native
bearers. The bearers are, however, a shade better than
the women. I could not repeat the dreadful stories
I have heard of the early depravity and knowledge of
wickedness acquired by children from their Ayahs, even
under vigilant superintendence. I think it a plain duty
for every one who can by any means afford to have a
European nurse for their children as soon as they begin
to speak; and the next best thing is an Afghan bearer,
who will keep the child in order and not spoil it by
excessive servility.
On returning from a drive we found the Nizám-u-
Dowlah here in the midst of his prayers. He and two
of his people were kneeling facing the west, each on his
praying carpet, one behind the other, the Nizám being
the fugleman. They took not the smallest notice of us
or of anything else until they had finished. By-the-by,
did you see that letter in the Record showing that pray-
ing to the East is an old Pagan custom, mentioned by
Victorius on his rules for building heathen temples, that
half of the sky being considered propitious and the other
unlucky. The Nizám-u-Dowlah belongs to one of the
most aristocratic branches of the Clan Popalzye. His
father and grandfather were both Wazirs; one of his
sisters married Shah Zemán, and another Shah Shujah.
The latter, who was called the Wafá Begum (the sincere
or honourable lady or princess), was his principal wife,
and distinguished herself by her fortitude, wisdom, and
spirit during her husband's captivity in the hands of
Ranjit Singh. She was Shah Shujah's very soul; the
Nizám spoke most warmly of her, and then added,
"We were of one milk," meaning children of the same
mother.
A few evenings after he brought his nephew, the
AFGHANS AND SIKHS.
193
Shahzadch Súltán Husein, son of Shah Zemán, to see
if my husband could procure a more equitable division
of the pension allowed by Government to the family of
the late Shah. The pension is only 2000 rupees a
month; and of this the ladies take half. The Prince
very naïvely said, "I have no objection that women
should have food, and all that is necessary, but it is not
right that they should take half, and leave hardly any-
thing for eight sons, bearded men." It is curious that
all these Afgháns, many of them like the Shahzadeh,
personally unknown to my husband, should come to
him for advice and assistance. The Prince was most
simply dressed, with a plain white turban, his manner
was shy, with a shade of awkwardness, and it is no
wonder, if a son of the Sovereign who shook our Indian
Empire to its basis should feel awkward in so strangely
altered a position.
The difference between the Afgháns and Sikhs in
manner and appearance is very marked. All the Af-
gháns of any rank that I have seen, are perfect gentle-
men, in manner very courteous, but with none of the
exuberant ceremoniousness and obsequiousness of the
Hindu. The Nizam-u-Dowlah is one of the most dig-
nified men I ever saw; the Sikhs, on the other hand,
are rough, rude, unpolished, noisy soldiers, with loud
voices.
A Sikh Colonel, Gajít Sing by name, called here the
other day. Both he and his cousin were fine looking
men, but with much less high caste features than the
Afgháns. They were both dressed in gigot-fashioned
white trousers, white muslin jacket, and the Colonel had
a pair of gold bangles on his wrists.
Almost all Sikhs, Afgháns, and Hindus have very
delicate hands and feet, in comparison to European
ones.
Our
The Is left us for the hills yesterday.
baggage has at last arrived, which is a great comfort.
It is now hot enough to use the phankah all day.
Do you know what a phankah is? It is a wooden
VOL. I.
K
194
A PHANKAH.
frame about three feet deep, covered with cloth, with a
double flounce of calico at the bottom. It is slung
from the ceiling, as low as can be done without knocking
any one's head as he passes under it, and is pulled to
and fro by a rope which generally passes through a hole
into the verandah, where the bearer sits. It makes the
room pleasantly cool. We have also Tattis, which are
semicircular screens of thatch, made of sweet scented
grass, called Kas, and fitting the doorway on whichever
side the wind blows. This Tatti is sprinkled inces-
santly with water, and the hotter the wind of course the
more rapid the evaporation, and the cooler the house.
We have had rain lately, which has made the
mornings and evenings delightful. The house is kept
closely shut from seven or eight o'clock in the morning
till seven in the evening; but although the outer air is
like that of an oven, I do not feel it at all too warm in
the house; thanks to these admirable contrivances.
Dr. H., of Tait's Irregular Horse, has just paid us a
visit. He told us, as so many others have done, that
there never was such confusion as at Firozshahar. The
battle began about half-past three P.M., consequently it
soon was become dark; there was no moon, and the
only light was from the Sikh camp, which was on
fire, and their magazines, which ever and anon blew
up. He said there was no reason for attacking that
night, as there was not the smallest chance of their
running away. The Governor-in-General was seeking
the Commander-in-Chief, the Commander-in-Chief the
Governor-General; nobody could be found, and the
conflict and confusion went on until near daybreak.
It was Dr. H. who, on the morning of the 23rd,
recognized poor Major Broadfoot's body. It was lying
just within the entrenchments, in no way mutilated,
with the face perfectly calm and placid, and he it is
who has lately caused the spot to be marked by a
pavement of bricks with his name, otherwise it would
soon have been obliterated. Colonel Ashburtham was
anxious to mark the grave of Major Somerset in a
FIROZSHAHAR.
195
similar manner, and three graves had to be opened
before it could be ascertained which was the right one.
The Doctor told me that before the battle of Múdkí,
the Sikhs declared they would not stop at Delhi, but
would march straight on to London. After it, they
were not quite so confident.
He said, that in spite of Lord Gough's want of
generalship, there was a great charm in him: his fine.
person, sweet expression, frank kind manner, sincerity
of heart, are very winning. His example did very much
for our success. He was always in the thickest of the
fight, ahead of every one, waving his cap, and cheering
on his men. The soldiers at Firozshahar were so much
exhausted, that Dr. H. himself saw an officer ride up to
a scattered party of Europeans, and exhort them to
come on. Their answer was, "It's of no use, it is
not in us, sir. We are done up." Many of the 62nd
were fainting before they came under fire, having been
marching from seven in the morning until three, P.M.,
when they came into action.
A regimental Khálasi, whose vocation it is to be
trustworthy, stole eight rupees from the doctor, where-
upon all the other Khálasies went in a body to the
doctor, to say they hoped he would be punished, for he
had brought disgrace upon their name. Strange to say,
there are whole classes of men in India whose vocation
it is to be honest, or rather perhaps, trustworthy.
The Mahajans or native Bankers often send a common
bearer from the bazar some hundred miles with a bag
of gold, and unless the bearer dies of fever or is mur-
dered, the money is as safe as if under charge of a
regiment. So it is with Khálasis; and my husband
tells me he would entrust uncounted money to any
amount to any Sepáhís from the Line whom he has in
his regiment, and feel quite at ease regarding its safety,
just as you would to a Highland cadie in Edinburgh ;
exceptions are wonderfully rare. They are ploughing
part of the garden, and manage the matter very simply.
A plank is first tacked on to two bullocks, a boy stands
K 2
196
PLOUGHING.
on it as they drag it along, and this is sufficient to
make this light sandy soil quite smooth. The bullocks
are then fastened to the plough, made of two pieces of
wood nearly at right angles with each other, and caused
to describe an oblong, inside which they patiently
proceed, diminishing it every turn like a coil of rope,
thus making no regular furrows, but turning up the
whole ground.
197
CHAPTER VI.
Afghan Zenana-Making an Impression-A Beauty-A Demoniac-
Mussalman Husband Pictures-Camera Oscura Hasan Khan's
curiosity-Reception by Governor-General-Sirfraz Khan-Stoddart
and Conolly-Persian Horse Dealer-Lights-Dust Storm-Nil Gao
-Hot Winds- Unlucky Dream-Wounded Artilleryman-Fatteh
Jang and General Pollock-Life in the Harem-Polygamy-Manly
Boys-Afghan Supper-Salt on Sunday-Messenger from Muhammad
Shah Khan-Afghan Claims-Akbar Khan's Treachery-Feather
Jacket Our Soldiers still Captive in Afghanistan - Bangstrie —
Afghan Sheep-Cure for Industry-Prosperity of annexed Sikh States
-Hindustani Language-Murteza Shah-Rudeness to Native Gen-
tleman-Remarkable Storm-Sepahi's Wife-An Afghan on Fighting
Faithful Afghan -A Mantis Bribery Unserviceable Arins
Bengal Army-Suffering of the Regiment.
MAY 4th.-On Saturday one of Hasan Khán's people
came to tell us the youngest Bibi had been very ill the
last three days, and had sent to the Bazár for some
medicines, which of course had done her no good; I
promised to see her in the evening, and Mrs. Rudolph
agreed to accompany me. We drove in at a narrow
gateway, got two or three vehement jolts in entering
the court yard, and stopped before a one-storied house
with mud walls and no windows. Mrs. Rudolph and I
were ushered in, and found ourselves in a good sized
room with bare rafters and painted walls, full of little
arched recesses, about four feet from the ground, which
served for shelves and cupboards. A mattrass, covered
with a sheet, lay on the floor, and on it the poor little
wife who had paid me a visit; she was very ill, her face
198
AFGHAN ZENANA.
drawn and pinched, unable to move without pain; she
was dressed in a very wide pair of scarlet trousers and
a short transparent little shirt of figured net, with
wide sleeves, her black hair hanging down behind in
one plait; a dirty elderly woman, with thick cotton veil,
which may once have been white, and dark trousers,
tight halfway up to the knee and full above, was sitting
by her and coaxing her. I took her for a servant, but
found she was her mother; two stout dirty boys of
nine or ten years old, and several servant girls, one of
them a very pretty young thing, were sitting around on
the floor. The other wife, Bibi Jí, conducted me to
an arm-chair in the middle of the room closs to a little
Phankah, but as I could see nothing of my patient at
that distance, I speedily sat down on the floor by her
side; they then brought me pillows and bolsters to lean
upon. I gave her some medicine, and ill as she was
she could not forbear taking another look at my petti-
coat, which is a source of great wonder to them from
being corded. Bibi Jí brought us some tea made with
cinnamon, which we both agreed was much nicer than
when made our fashion. The tea-leaves and cinnamon
are put into cold water, and placed on the fire to boil
very slowly; it is taken off directly it begins to boil,
and boiled milk and sugar added.
The room was painted with flowers on a white ground,
a sort of imitation of Florentine mosaic; it has three
doors opening into the inner court where the women
sleep in the open air, cook, &c., and on the opposite side
as many leading to the outer court, which, when the
women occupy this room, are kept closed, with thick
wedded curtains of yellow cotton, bordered with red,
over them. As, however, the doors are very rudely
made of planks, they have many chinks most conve-
nient for the women to peep and listen through.
the head of the bed stood a rude lamp, a kind of vase,
with four wicks, lying in oil, which require to be con-
stantly trimmed; it stood on an old deal box to make it
higher, and when I asked for water it was brought by
the Pesh Khidmat, who seems to manage everything
At
AFGHANI PATIENT.
199
in his master's absence; he came only to the door, but
he must have seen in very well.
Sunday morning, by five o'clock, a message was sent
that the poor Bibí was worse. Mrs. Rudolph and I
went again, and tried some remedies with apparently
no good result; Mrs. Rudolph was obliged to go home,
but before doing so she asked the poor sick girl how
she expected to be saved, and on her making no answer,
told her she ought to pray to God to enlighten her
heart by His Holy Spirit, and then gave her a short
sketch of the way of salvation by Christ. Leila Bibí
kept her eyes shut with a kind of stiffnecked expres-
sion, and Mrs. Rudolph afterwards told me she always
found that it was a very unwelcome subject, for they
are sensible of having no sure ground of salvation, and
do not like to think of it. How often is this the case
with nominal Christians! Like the ostrich hiding her
head in the sand, they hope to escape danger by escap-
ing the sight of it.
When, however, Mrs. Rudolph returned with me in
the evening, Leila Bibí's manner to her was very cordial.
I stayed with her until half-past one P.M., leaving her
better, although her strength was greatly prostrated.
The Bibís brought me all sorts of eatables; they made
me lie down on quilts in the middle of the floor, and
pulled the Phankah over me, and in the evening they
made a khána or dinner for us of pillau, and an exccl-
lent dish called Phirni, ground rice boiled in milk till
it is of the consistency of arrowroot.
Every day since, I have been to see my poor patient,
morning and evening, sometimes staying with her two
or three hours. She has had very restless nights, and
has eaten nothing the last six days. Mrs. Rudolph
goes with me as often as she can, generally early in the
morning.
Yesterday (Tuesday) she read the 53rd of Isaiahı,
and some of John, in Hindustani (which Leila, having
been brought up at Loodiana, understands perfectly),
and spoke of the sinfulness of our hearts, and of the
only way of salvation. Leila Bibí said nothing, but
200
KINDNESS AMONG THE AFGHANS.
one of the others listened most attentively. The
mother and Bibí Jí walked about entirely unconcerned.
When Mrs. Rudolph is not with me, Jacob or my
husband comes to interpret; Jacob stands at the door,
and the old mother speaks to him openly, but I observe
they are much more particular with C. He modestly
stands on one side of the door and the female speaker
on the other, so that although they make up for it by
peeping after him, he cannot see them. The Pesh-
khidmat always stands by, and all the younger mem-
bers of the family post themselves against the walls,
so as not to be scen. One or two are pretty intelligent
girls, and they all receive me most affectionately.
It is pleasant to see how harmoniously they seem to
live together, each vieing with the other in attending
on the invalid. Bibí Jí is a heavy figure, and not very
quick at the uptak." By-the-by, I remarked that
Leila Bibi's little sark is sewn at the throat, so it is
evidently not taken off every day. Their persons and
hair seem clean, but their clothes are worn until they
are almost worthy of a Romish saint. The men of any
rank are much more particular. They use only one
sheet on their beds and none over them, as they sleep
in their day clothes; they seem very decorous in un-
covering themselves before others; this was shown in
many ways by the poor invalid when we were putting
hot flannels on her, &c.
Now that Leila Bibí is getting better, they all show
me every mark of kindness and gratitude, squeezing
my hands, patting and stroking me; and, last night,
two of them shampoocd me. Leila Bibí makes signs
for me to sit on her bed close to her, and then puts her
arm round me, and her dumb thanks, putting my hand
to her forehead and eyes, are very pretty. There seems
little practical distinction of rank between the mis-
tresses of the family and the servants, except that the
former have a few gold ornaments, and wear very wide
trousers and transparent jackets, with purple net veils
thrown over the left shoulder and reaching to the
ground behind; while the latter have blue cotton shirts,
MAKING AN IMPRESSION.
201
cotton veils, and ludicrous trousers, tight nearly to the
knee and full above. One or two have a petticoat
instead. They have their hair hanging down in braids
behind, and one long curl on each side of the temp le.
Bibí Jí has silver bangles on her feet. An old fat
servant sometimes comes in dressed literally in sack-
cloth. Bibí Jí brings everything eatable with her own
hands, fetches water for the medicines, &c. Several
that I at first took for attendants turn out to be friends,
for it is the custom in case of sickness for some of the
friends of the invalid to go and stay in the house,
rendering all needful aid till amendment takes place,
and a good custom it is. In England we can so easily
buy service, that we have forgotten the privilege of
rendering it.
Last evening the invalid was much better and quite
cheerful. One of the maids, a merry-looking girl,
hearing I was not quite well, took the Homœopathic
Book and pretended to read in it to find out my case.
The other day they asked me to read to them, having a
great admiration for an art, which none of them pos-
sess. I read a small piece of Laurie, and then a pas-
sage from a German Homoeopathic Book. The latter
they pronounced "sakht," or hard.
saklit," or hard. As C. was to
receive Hasan Khán's pension for him, two receipts in
Persian were prepared and brought to Leila Bibí to
be stamped with her husband's private seal. She is
evidently the favourite wife. A red little box was
placed on her bed, with one hinge off; she unlocked it,
(such a wretched padlock !) with a little key which
hung on the sash of her trousers. The seal was rubbed
with Indian ink, and the maid tried to make an im-
pression and produced a great black blot. I tried with
no better success, so the seal was confided to me that
the Sahib might make the impression himself. The
Pesh Khidmat followed me home with two fresh receipts,
but neither he nor the "Sahib" could succeed; so
they were obliged to have two others made out and
bring the Munshí, who sealed them properly in a
moment by putting on very little ink, and not letting
K 3
202
AN AFGHAN BEAUTY.
any go into the hollows of the seal. This is the way
all letters are authenticated; they are written by a
Munshi and stamped with the seal of the person send-
ing them, which seal bears his name and often his title.
This of course opens a wide field for forgeries, espe-
cially as it is easy to wash out either the writing or the
signature, and substitute others, both being in Indian
ink on thick and very glossy paper.
Hasan Khán has a private store-room hung round
with arms, among them I saw a shield, a cavalry sword,
and the blunderbuss C. gave him. Some large chests
I suppose contain clothes and resais, but Orientals
seem to have no sense of order. The family possess
only pewter spoons, and one or more very blunt clasp
knives, and a red and white German glass. In order to
return Hasan Khán's present, I sacrificed my amethyst
bracelets and gave one to each Bibí. The little sick
one's face lighted up with pleasure, and I really think
it did her good.
N
Wednesday, May 6th. Yesterday year we left
Dresden. It seems three years to us, so much has been
crowded into it. When I went last evening to see
Leila Bibí, I found a whole family of strangers there.
She, who seemed to be the principal person, was one of
the most lovely creatures I ever saw; eyes, nose, mouth
and teeth were beautiful, with a very fair skin like an
Italian, perfect eyebrows. and eyelashes such as they
almost all have, like a thick silk fringe. She was very
becomingly dressed in snow-white pajamahs and veil,
and a purple net shirt. This morning the Pesh Khid-
mat, as usual, brought a lamentable account, but I
found my patient no worse.
I took a cup of sago with
me, and gave her a few spoonsful, as I was afraid of
her remaining any longer without nourishment, and I
dared not tell them to feed her, lest they should force
her to eat, which they were much inclined to do. She
called me her "bahin" or sister. I made Jacob ask a
grown up brother of Leila Bibi's to bring his mother
to our house, saying I wished to explain something to
her about her daughter's illness, which I could not do
POSSESSED BOY.
through any one except my husband.
203
"Oh," said the
brother very naïvely, "I'll come instead: I have just
arrived at Loodiana, and I want to know all about my
sister's illness." It ended by arranging that both were
to come. You may be sure that I pray earnestly for
guidance whenever I prescribe for my patient or give
her anything, and, as C. suggested that it would be well
to do so openly, I told them as well as I could that
God only could make her well, and then knelt down
and prayed silently for a few minutes before giving her
the medicine. I thought it the only way I could take
to give Him the glory of her recovery.
A very strange thing has happened to the son of
Mrs. Rudolph's Ayah. The boy, who is I believe twelve
or fourteen years of age, returned from the Bazár the
other day howling and crying in a fearful manner. Mr.
Rudolph went to see him; he was sitting with his knees
up to his chin, crying out that a spirit was within him,
and Mr. Rudolph said he never saw anything more
frightful, or more exactly like the account of those
possessed by evil spirits which the Scriptures give us.
The people here all believe that in these cases, which
are common, the person is possessed, and accordingly
they have been keeping a light burning before the boy,
and making offerings of flowers to the evil spirit within
him. Mr. Rudolph's opinion is exactly the same as my
husband's, viz., that in Heathen countries such as this,
Satan still exercises a power which we know was formerly
allowed him, but of which he is now in a great measure
deprived in Christian lands.
May 7th.-The brother came by himself after all;
and Č. told me, showed both delicacy and feeling in
speaking of his sister's illness. He feeds her tenderly
with his own hands. She got better the next two
days, and on Saturday evening we found them all quite
joyful, as they had heard from Hasan Khán, that he
had been extremely well received by the Lord Sáhib,
who had given him very handsome presents, and pro-
mised him three medals, one for Afghánistan, one for
Gwalior, and one for the battles last year.
204
AN AFGHAN HUSBAND.
The next morning, Sunday, to my great amazement,
as I drove into the court Hasan Khán himself appeared;
he must have ridden day and night from Simlah directly
he heard of his wife's illness. He led me in; she
seemed better, but shortly spasms came on, and she
suffered greatly. This obliged me to stay with her
till half-past ten, by which time sepia had relieved the
violence of the pain. You may imagine I watched
Hasan Khán very closely to see how Muhammadan
husbands behave. He was most attentive to his poor
wife, raising her up, giving her water every few minutes,
and holding her head. He was dressed exactly as the
women are, i. e. with very full trousers, muslin short
shirt and scull-cap. Like all the Afgháns, he rushes
about in the most energetic manner; and then, when
his wife was a little easier, sat down and gossipped with
the other women most sociably. He is well obeyed;
he told his little child to go to me, and it came instantly,
for the first time. He seems very fond of her. He
gave his little wife some sago, and though she made wry
faces he caused her to take the whole, just as if she had
been an infant. He is particularly pleased with a tele-
scope which Lord Gough gave him. The Jungi-Lord
(or war lord, as they call him) went to get the glass
himself, and said, "I have used this five and twenty
years, and I give it to you because you are an old and
brave soldier."
May 14th.-I have been to see my patient every day.
Her brother is still there, but comes no more within
the Zenána. It is droll to see Hasan Khán feel his
wife's pulse. He does it with a face of such preter-
natural gravity, as plainly shows he thinks it incumbent
on him to make up for perfect ignorance by wise looks.
He is very much grieved at C. not being well, and has
been here five or six times to see him. He told my
husband that they had held a consultation regarding
my "science," whereby I read in a book and gave
medicine, and they agreed they were all cows compared
to me!
He sent us a breakfast the other day, and then came
VISIT FROM HASAN KHAN'S FAMILY.
205
to see us eat it. It consisted of a lamb roasted whole,
just as it is described in Exodus xii. 9, a huge pile of
rice, and some minor dishes. After breakfast, we
showed him some electro plate, and C. endeavoured to
explain the electric telegraph and the railway. The
telegraph he found it very hard to credit; I am sure if
any one else had told him of it he would not have
believed a syllable.
We gave him two electro-plated curry dishes, with
which he was greatly pleased. Hasan Khan was
charmed with the blotting-book Miss J. embroidered
for me, and seemed as if he could not examine it
enough. All the natives are curious in embroidery.
The Afgháns, also, seem fond of pictures, and under-
stand at once what they mean-the Hindus never do;
but if they see a lion drawn on a very small scale,
probably take it for an insect. Hasan Khán greatly
admired a little print in Anderson's "Maehrchen," of
a hare running over the snow.
My husband tells me that the Hindus have no eye
for beauty, whereas the Afghans have a very quick
perception of it, and admire Europeans exceedingly;
it is the same with our melodies, with which the
Afgháns are delighted, but the Hindus prefer tomtoms
to Mozart.
I do not perceive the Jewish caste of countenance
so strongly as I expected; on the contrary, I should say
there was no characteristic difference between Euro-
peans and Afghans, save the darker complexion of most
of the latter.
Yesterday I sent a buggy and requested Leila's
mother to come to me, as I wished to speak to her. It
soon returned covered all over with a white cloth, out
of which, after the Sais had been sent away, the Pesh
Khidmat extracted the mother and little Padímah
Begum, Leila, and Bibí Jí, who had all crammed them-
selves into the buggy. Hasan Khán soon after arrived,
and when C. reproved him for letting his little wife
come out in the heat, he said, "What could I do? She
would come."
206
NATIVE CURIOSITY.
I made her lie down, and afterwards showed them
my Camera Oscura, arranging it so that they could see
everything in the outer room without being seen them-
selves. Hasan Khán was as much delighted with it as
any of them. He made Leila Bibí sit by him, and
showed it to her. They had the satisfaction of seeing
my husband in this fashion.
He takes very little notice of Bibí Jí, who, though
a most good natured creature, looked extremely dis-
composed. He had been all the time either looking
through the Camera himself, or showing it to Leila
Bibí; so to comfort the other, I showed her my store
room and my saddle. I then showed them our dressing
rooms, one of my patent trunks, and divers other things
that were new and strange to them; they particularly
admired a black tulle dress, and above all a looking-
glass, into which they all looked and smiled at them-
selves, and arranged their veils with great satisfaction.
Hasan Khan is every bit as full of curiosity as his
women. While I am prescribing for his wife, he exa-
mines my gloves, bag, purse, and handkerchief; he
generally brings me my bonnet and shawl himself, and
always walks by my buggy to his gate. He has twice
daubed me with sandal wood oil, the scent of which can
hardly be got rid of.
He told C. that he went to Simla with his heart
burning, determined to speak out. He says that he
has rendered greater services to Government than any
other Afghán, and thinks his pension ought to be made
equal to that of Ján Fishán Khán (who has 1000 a
month) and five rupees beyond it, just to give him the
pre-eminence. "The pension I have was given me for
my services in Afghanistan. I expended 2000 rupees
in arming followers during these last fights, and I have
got nothing for my later services but medals. When
the Lord Sahib gave me his hand, placed a chair close
to himself, made an oration in my praise, and gave me
the pán (betel nut) and perfume himself, which is
always done to a king, all this shut my mouth. I only
asked for a letter in his own writing stating the services
AFGHAN CHILDREN.
207
I have rendered, and said that I wanted my family from
Kábul."
Lord Hardinge has promised him this letter, and is
going to write to Dost Múhammad to desire him to
send down the Khán's family.
So great was his indignation at getting no substantial
reward for his recent good service, that he said he could
have "torn the presents in pieces." Never was there a
more fiery soul than dwells in his lean and wiry frame,
at the same time he is full of strong affection. He
kisses his little child's hands, and pats her most ten-
derly. It is pretty to see the small thing when he
desires it to keep still, sit down and lay hold of one of
his feet to coax.
He told us the other day, that after the battles last
year, his sister "of the same milk," who is in Afghan-
istan, heard a false report that he was killed. She
wept so much, that to use his own words, "darkness
came on!" and she is blind. I find that the beautiful
creature I saw at his house sometime ago, is a sister
of Leila Bibí, married to Safdar Jang, a son of Shah
Shujah's, and so utterly vile a character, that Hasan
Khán never suffers his wife to return her sister's visits.
He said, “I am a respectable man, and therefore do
not prevent the sisters seeing each other; but I am of
one of the first families in Afghanistan, and I should
think myself disgraced if I crossed the threshold of
such a man's house."
I am happy I am not an Afghan child. It is gene-
rally spoilt, and sometimes cuffed. Bibí Jí, who never
makes her little girl do anything she is told, the other
day gave her two or three slaps in anger, and carried
her off hanging by one arm.
The other day we had a visit from a brother of Ami-
nullah Khán, the chief who ordered my husband to be
blown from the mouth of a gun. The brother, Sirfraz
Khán, is a most respectable-looking, gentlemanly old
man, who is at the head of Prince Shahpur's household,
and never suffers him to spend a farthing beyond his
pitiful income of 400 rupees, i.e., forty pounds a month.
208
STODDART AND CONOLLY.
He came to consult my husband about a disagreement
between Nadír Shah and Teimúr Shah, two of the
princes; and also on the best means of getting an in-
crease to Shahpur's pension-asking his advice whether
the Governor-General should be written to at once or
not. A strange position of confidential intimacy for
two men who had stood in such opposite relations to
Aminullah Khán.
Atta Muhammad, who often comes here, told us the
other day, that he had seen an Afghán who had been
at Bokhara at the time of the murder of Stoddart
and Conolly, who told him, that had General Pollock
informed the Amir that if the two officers were not
given up, he would despatch a force to Bokhara and
take the city, they would have been sent in with all
honour. This is exactly what C. always said, and
what Isák Manáhem, the Bokhara Jew, also told us;
adding, that the people of Bokhara not only expected
us, but would have welcomed us with joy. Thus these
two gallant men were sacrificed by Lord Ellenborough's
timid policy.
May 18th. It is now a fortnight that my husband
has been wholly unable to attend parade, or even write
a public letter, except by dictation. I am thankful to
say he is getting better; but he grieves at not being
able to get to his regiment, as without his personal
superintendence les choses ne marchent pas, au contraire
elles boitent terriblement.
A Persian horse merchant called the other day.
When our friend Major Mac Donald was in Persia, and
so ill that he was thought to be dying, some of his
servants deserted, and others plundered him; this man
nursed him as if he had been his brother, so we felt
bound to show him as much kindness as we could.
I met with a strong trait of honour the other day in
a poor wood merchant. Jacob had bargained for some
wood, and, I thought, had beaten the man down per-
haps a little too much, so I sent him about sixpence
more than the stipulated price. He would not take
it, saying he had agreed to the price named, and could
LIGHTS.
209
not go back from his word.
him.
I intend to employ
I have never told you about the lights we have.
Candles are very dear; those from Patna, which are
excellent, are a rupce a pound, even on the spot.
We generally burn ghi, which is boiled butter, as it
is cheaper than cocoa-nut oil. About a quarter of a
pound of ghi is put into a burner with water in it
(shaped like a tumbler, with a long stalk and no foot),
in which is a little tin thing holding two wicks made
of twisted cotton. The burner is stuck into the can-
dlestick instead of candle; it has a glass shade round
it, on the top of which is a tin cover full of holes, to
prevent the light being puffed out by the Phankah.
All the furniture we have-and I do not think we
shall need any more-has cost us about two hundred
rupees. This includes blinds to all the doors, and what
they call Jhámps or awnings of bamboo and matting,
on two sides of the house. We were obliged to buy
the chairs by twos and threes as we could find them,
and could not get a table nearer than Amballa, 100
miles off.
I went to see Leila in the Palkí yesterday evening
just as a storm was coming on; by the time I got there
we were assailed by clouds of dust, and rain soon fell.
The roof of Hasan Khán's state-room was in such a
condition that the rain came in on us as we sat. You
have no idea what a dust storm here is. The hot wind
blows with fury, and the air is so thick, that the
Quartermaster Sergeant on his way hither yesterday
morning went two or three miles out of his road; a
Sepáli came to his assistance, but they lost each other
in the dust. We have had a shower almost every ten
days, which I believe is not usual. The rain cools the
air delightfully for two or three days after.
Hasan Khán speaks with great contempt of his wife's
family, just as Rob Roy did of Glasgow bodies. His
brother-in-law came with him the other day to read a
letter, but though a chair was placed for him, he did
210
HOT WINDS-DREAMS.
not sit down, and retired to join the other attendants
as soon as he had finished reading.
I forgot to tell you of the "Niel Gow" I saw some-
time ago. You will fancy I was charmed with sweet
sounds no such thing, a níl gao is literally a blue
cow. They are of a bluish slate colour, and made more
like the elk than the cow, and have that peculiar
appearance as if the back were weak or broken. They
are found in all the forests of India; the male has
short straight horns.
Even after sunset the hot wind is now as scorching
as if you were standing close to a huge kitchen fire, so
you may have some faint idea of what it must be in the
day time. The house doors and windows are never
opened until dark. Hasan Khán chose to have himself
cupped at the back of the neck the other day, under
no reasonable pretext whatever. He came the next
morning to see us, and appeared so cast down, that C.
asked what was the matter. "Aí Mihrbání” (O dis-
penser of favours), sighed he, "I have dreamed a
dream." "Well, what was the dream?" "I dreamed
that I broke a tooth, and that is a very evil portent."
My husband expounded to him that dreams generally
arose from indigestion, and said we have a scientific
book written on dreams, which explains the causes of
them. "Ah!" said he disconsolately, "so have we,
and it gives the meaning of each dream, and this is a
very bad one.”
We have been much interested in a poor artillery
man who had both hands blown off some time ago, and
his eyes much injured. His sight is now quite re-
covered, and there is much reason to hope that this
misfortune has been the means of bringing him to God.
He was always extremely well conducted. He told
Captain Conran the other day that he had just been
thinking what a blessing it was that he had lost his two
hands. For a man to say this spontaneously, shows, I
think, that he has had his eyes opened to see those
great realities which make all earthly afflictions as dust.
FATTIH JANG AND GENERAL POLLOCK.
211
in the balance. I sent him the "Pilgrim's Progress"
and "Bunyan's Life," and Captain C. told me it was
interesting to see him holding the book open and
turning the leaves with his elbows. An Afghán came
who had behaved most faithfully during the disasters
at Kabúl, so we kept him all day and feasted him at
night. He is a most intelligent man, thoroughly
understood the whole Afghán business, and marvelled
at the incomprehensible blunders of the English com-
manders. He is of the Ishák Khail near Kandahar,
and is the first Afghán I have seen who wears his hair
long. He was well dressed, with a turban, half of his
hair brought forward over one shoulder and half over
the other nearly down to his waist, "like the hair of
women," Rev. ix. 8. By-the-by, I must tell you a
fact I do not think you have heard. When my hus-
band was sent by Akbar to negotiate with General
Pollock, he was present in the General's tent when an
Arab arrived from Fattih Jang, who was then holding
out the Bálá Hissar against the Chiefs, after the death
of Shah Shujáh. He sent to say that it was impos-
sible for him to hold out more than a month, as his
ammunition was failing, and that if the British did not
aid him by that time he must surrender. General Pol-
lock said: "Tell him that within three weeks my guns
shall be heard in the Khurd Kábúl Pass." Having
thus pledged himself, he was bound to redeem his own
and the national honour, but he did not do so-Lord
Ellenborough can best give the reason.
Fattih Jang
held out for five weeks, and then gave up the fort. Is
it any wonder that such a proceeding blackened our
faces in the cyes of the Afgháns? Do you remember
what Mr. Clerk wrote? Deploring as I constantly
do the hatred and contempt in which our name as a
nation is now held throughout Central Asia," &c., and
can you wonder at it?
(6
Loodiana, May 26th, 1847.
The hot weather has now so completely set in, that
for the last month I have never left the house save
1
212
MUSSALAM WIVES.
Did
before seven A.M. and after seven in the evening. From
my frequent visits to Hasan Khán's family, where I can
go when it is cool, I see, as you may suppose, a good
deal of "Life in the Harem," and would undertake to
refute authoritatively, as I always felt inclined to do on
prima facie grounds, the fine theories of Mr. Urquhart
regarding the superior happiness of Muhammadan
women. What can a man know of the matter?
he go about visiting in the form of an old woman? Had
he friends and acquaintances in half a dozen Zenánás?
Would any Mussalmání woman speak freely to a
Feringhí, even if he did obtain speech with her, or are
the Turks to be taken as competent and impartial
witnesses as to the relative happiness of their wives.
It is presumption for him ever to talk of a Mussalmání's
feelings I will flap him out of the field with the end of
a purdah. I do not think their secluded life makes
them objects of pity. They are hardly more devoid of
excitement than I am myself; they see their female
friends and their dearest male relations, and the tie
between brother and sister seems to be very strongly
felt by them; but it is not in human nature to be con-
tent with being only the fourth part of a man's wife.
They are far from viewing the matter as we do, and
I should suppose Hasan Khán's Zenáná a favourable
specimen, as both Leila Bibí and Bibí Jí seem very
good-tempered and very friendly to one another. Still,
as no man can love two or more women equally, and as
no woman can bear that another should share her hus-
band's affections, I plainly see there are heartburn-
ings innumerable, even in this family. Leila Bibí
is the favourite: she is a very pretty, merry, clever
little creature, who laughs and talks with Hasan Khán
much as an English wife would do. He is evidently
very fond of her, but he takes not the smallest notice of
poor Bibí Jí, who says nothing, but has an expression
sometimes in her face which pains me to see. Luckily
for her she does not seem at all a sensitive person; she
is a good, warm hearted creature, who is very much
obliged for any little kindness, but not very bright.
POLYGAMY.
213
But then she has a little girl, and Leila Bibí, who has
been married four years, has none. It is the old story
of Hannah and Peninnah over again: the one is so
anxious for children, and the other indirectly boasts of
hers, by always talking of children and pitying people
who have none.
"C
""
It is surprising how we manage to talk, considering
my want of knowledge of Hindustání. The other
morning I was alone with Leila Bibí and a servant.
Leila Bibí asked me about marriages in our country; I
explained the ceremony to her, and then she said, "Only
one Mem Sahib to one Sahib!" 66
Of course only one.
The servant loudly applauded so excellent a plan, and
Leila Bibí said, with a little pout and in a pitiful tone,
My Sahib has got six! four at Kábúl, and the
Governor-General has promised to apply for them!" I
fear when they come there will be great difficulty in
reconciling the claims of the auld love' and the new,
the one of noble birth, whose wisdom and prudence her
husband extols so highly, and the young pretty crea-
ture, who now has things all her own way, as much, at
least, as any one can have under such a disciplinarian
as Hasan Khán,-for with all his warm feelings, the
savage nature of the lion peeps out whenever he is in
any way provoked.
C
Leila Bibi's brother, a very nice polite boy of eleven
years old, who is very kind to little "Fatima" (whom
he coaxes and pets as if he were her nurse), and as
gentle and quiet as a tame mouse, let one of my books
fall this morning: Hasan Khán picked it up, and then
deliberately gave the poor boy a slap on his cheek as
hard as he could. The child said nothing, though I am
sure any English boy of his age would have roared. I
was so angry that I shook the Khán by the sleeve, and
only wished I could have spoken Persian enough to have
"flyted" him. By-the-by, every Afghán is a living refu-
tation of the favourite English idea, that boys must be
sent away from home to make them manly. All the
great men of our own country in the sixteenth or seven-
teenth centuries were brought up at home; and here,
214
AFGHAN SUPPER.
under our own eyes, we see one of the most manly races
in the world brought up in the Zenáná almost exclu-
sively among women, and therefore as boys wholly devoid
of the bearishness and odious manners which charac-
terize most English boys from ten to twenty. The only
bad result of the presence of the boy in the gynæcium
is, that they talk of everything before him just as if he
were not there; and although very modest in behaviour,
they are much more unrestrained in speaking of many
subjects than any of our own countrywomen I have
ever known, though I have heard wonderful stories of
what "Indian" ladies will say.
The Khán was cating his supper when I arrived the
other evening, in the court-yard, with a white metal
tray with three or four dishes on a teapoy before him.
He had a chair and a spoon brought for me, and we ate
lovingly out of the same dish, he picking out bits of
meat (very nice roasted mutton cut in small pieces)
with his fingers for me. When he had finished, Bibí Jí,
who waited on him, brought a little thing like a teapot
without a handle, made of metal, and enamelled in blue,
green, and white: he drank water out of the spout of it,
which is the usual Afghán fashion. He is very polite
to me, brings all I want, and always escorts me to the
gate on foot. I thought how amused you would have
been, could you have seen me gravely cating kabobs
with Hasan Khán, or driving home in the buggy, with
one Saís to lead the horse, another (Baidullah) to take
care of me, and escorted by Leila Bibi's brother on
horseback, and the Peshkhidmat with a blazing torch
on foot, all at full speed.
I happened to go one morning to the house of one of
the native Catechists, when they were engaged in family
worship. The Catechist prayed most fervently in Hin-
dustani, and it was pretty to see his little children, an
old grey-headed woman, with his wife, and the wife of
another Catechist who is absent, all scattered about the
floor, with the head, in the Native fashion, resting on
the knees, an attitude that would give most Europeans a
fit of apoplexy.
MESSAGE FROM MUHAMMAD SHAH KHAN. 215
Our Havildar Major is from Oude. C. explained to
him the other day that we had no holy days, except the
Sabbath, and that ought to be consecrated wholly to
God. He said, "Ah! in my country we also observe
the Sunday-we eat no salt on that day.
""
That gentlemanly old man, Sirfrás Khán, came to
see us the night before last, and brought with him a
Saiad, or holy man, the bearer of a letter from Múham-
mad Shah Khán, who saved my husband's life at Sir
William MacNaghten's murder. Since the death of
his son-in-law, Akbar, whose property, to the amount,
it is said, of seven laks, he carried off, he has been at
open war with the Amir, Dost Muhammad, who has
lately taken and razed his fort of Baddiábad (where
the hostages and captives were confined), and obliged
Muhammad Shah to fly to the mountains of the Kaffirs,
in all probability descendants of Alexander the Great's
army, and inhabit the Hindu Kush range, to the north
of the plains of Jellálabad and Laghmán (Hindu Kush
means Hindu killer, the mountains being nearly inac-
cessible, but with delicious valleys between). The poor
Khán in extremity writes a loving letter to C., remind-
ing him that they had always been friends, and wishing
to know if that friendship continues. According to
their custom, when they are doubtful as to the relation
they stand in towards any one, he had given the Saiad
a token, whereby he should know my husband's dispo-
sition towards him.
The Saiad began,-" Muhammad Shah Khán says to
you, when you were in peril of life by the fort of
Mahmud Khán, how did I behave?"
C. immediately answered, "When the sword was
raised to strike me, he put his arm round my neck, and
took the cut on his own shoulder."
And thus the Saiad knew that he was willing to
acknowledge the service, and not as some of their own
countrymen would have done, deny that he had ever
seen such a person. C. told him that Muhammad Shah
Khán had been a bitter enemy, but always an open one,
and therefore he would meet him in battle without
216
PRINCE SHAPUR.
enmity, and if he came to his house would treat him as
a friend, and make a feast for him. Is not this like a
little bit of the olden time?
C. has been writing letters vigorously the last two
days, endeavouring to get justice done to some of the
many Afgháns and refugees who have received little
or no thanks at our hands for their fidelity and services.
They all viewed Shah Shujah as our tool (which he
undeniably was), and in sacrificing everything in his
cause they served us and not him. I will just give you
two or three instances of the way in which they have
been rewarded by our short-sighted economy.
First, there is the Shahzádeh Shápur, who, after
being proclaimed King at Kabúl, and being foolish
enough (the gallant boy was but sixteen) to trust to
the repeated assurances given to him and the friendly
chiefs that the army would at least winter at Kabúl,
found, when too late, that he had been made a mere
stalking horse, and was left to shift for himself as he
best could. After the retreat of the army the Shah-
zádeh was attacked and plundered, and it was with the
utmost difficulty that he succeeded in escaping with life
and honour to Hindustán, where the Government
assigned him the paltry allowance of 400 rupees a
month for his mother, himself, his brother Nadir, and
a host of ruined dependents.
Again, Ali Reza Khán, the Kazzilbásh, whose exer-
tions as Chief-Commissariat Agent at Kabúl were the
means of supplying the force, came here yesterday from
Lahore, quite weary with waiting for justice. The
Government owe him the sum of 30,000 rupees, which
he cannot get paid; he lost in our service between two
and three laks, and although he has a pension of 400
rupees a month, it is wholly swallowed up in paying
interest for money, which, owing to his Government
bad debt, he has been obliged to borrow.
Then again, there are some Afghán soldiers of Sáleh
Muhammad's to whom Major Pottinger gave a paper,
pledging the Government to employ them permanently,
in reward for their services in the liberation of the cap-
AKBAR'S TREACHERY.
217
tives. When they got to Kabúl they were talked into
accepting, or rather ordered to receive, four months'
pay
instead of perpetual service; and now, when having
nothing else to live on, they apply for employment, and
produce the paper given them by Major Pottinger, they
are told that their claims, which are still morally valid,
cannot be listened to, because they are of five years'
standing. How could these poor men apply when
Lord Hardinge was in Calcutta, and they had no one
to speak for them? Why, for the sake of saving a few
thousand rupees, should the Government act as petty
pedlars, chaffering about strict dues, and evading all
claims that are not legally valid, and many that are so,
instead of rewarding in a liberal and generous spirit
(which would be the best policy) those who have sacri-
ficed everything to their fidelity to our cause? As
Hasan Khán truly said, "It does not become a great
Government to dole out its gifts and rewards."
That long-haired Afghán, who came the other day,
told us that on the retreat from Kabúl he had escaped
by passing himself off as a servant of Shujah-u-Doulah,
and he himself heard Akbar Khán cry out in Persian,
"Cease firing! Do not touch the English!" and then
add in Pushtu, "Slay them! Slay them!" This he
related as a piece of information, not knowing that C.
was aware of it. Major Pottinger, soon after they had
been given up as hostages, turned to my husband and
said: "M., remember, if I am killed, that I heard
Akbar Khán desire his people to slay the English in
Pushtu, though he was calling to them to stop firing in
Persian."
May 26th.-A present from Ali Reza Khán came;
we had before told him that it was impossible to accept
it on account of the Government regulations, but he
wished me at least to see the things. It was grievous
to be obliged to refuse them, they were so pretty,-a
beautiful Kashmir shawl, with pattern all over it, a
green Kashmir scarf, and a little poshtin or jacket made
of drakes' feathers, so pretty and glossy! Ah! what
sacrifices public duty requires when one may not take
VOL. I.
L
218
RESPONSIBILITY.
a little jacket of ducks' feathers!
Atta Mahamúd
brought me a very pretty piece of pink crape sometime
ago, and was so grieved at our refusing it, that yesterday,
determined we should take something, he sent us half
a small cheese which he had just received from Lahor.
On C. telling the messenger he was much obliged and
would eat it, the man answered in their usual primitive
fashion, "Stuff yourself well!"
One of C.'s orderlies belonged to Woodburn's force,
when, near Ghazni, Captain Woodburn and most of his
men were cut to pieces. This man was among those
taken prisoners-was carried about to different parts of
Afghánistan as a slave, and was in the mountains just
above Istálif at the very time General M'Caskill took
that place. He said that all the mountains in that part
are full of Hindustáni, Ghurkás, and even some English
prisoners, Sepáhis, camp followers, &c. The Subádar
of his own company, who, at the time of Captain
Woodburn's murder, killed several Afgháns with his
own hand before he was captured, was kept in chains
and extremely ill treated for a long while, and at last
sent off with many other of our unfortunate men to
Balkh, in Turkistan, where they now are. It was in
vain that Major Pottinger urged General M'Caskill to
wait only three days at Istálif, when all these prisoners
would have been brought in, he would not take the
responsibility of doing so; neither would General
Pollock, fettered as he was by Lord Ellenborough's
vehement injunctions to retreat, take the responsibility
of allowing him to remain. It is very odd that people
have no fear of "responsibility" for doing nothing.
The fact is they fear blame, for responsibility must be
borne whether they like it or not. The consequence is
that, to our great disgrace, numbers of our faithful
soldiers and fellow-subjects are pining in slavery to this
very hour. The orderly himself only escaped with a
comrade of his a year and a half ago; they entered the
Amballa Police Battalion, from which they were trans-
ferred to our regiment.
June 2nd, 1847.-Thermometer 87° with Phankah
CURE FOR INDUSTRY.
219
and Tatties. We heard yesterday of Sir John Davies's
expedition against the forts at Canton-the Chinese
having of late been behaving in "ane bangstrie" man-
ner; that is a word I have stolen or adopted from Mr.
Cameron, who found it lately in an old Scottish docu-
ment, and truly says, "it is too good to be allowed to
perish." Is it not a delightful word? You seem to see
the Chinese banging about and making a huge noise
like doors in a high wind, and then you see the very
dust fly out of them as they get the banging their
bangstrie doings brought upon them.
Shahpur Shahzadeh has twice sent us a present of
early melons; they are small, but very nice-some with
pale-green pulp especially. I do not know if there are
such in England. One of my poor goats has been seized
by a wolf close to the house, in broad daylight, and
bitten on the neck. They tied up the wound with ním
leaves, which are very healing. The Ayah gave the
alarm, but the wolf got off. Last year one carried off
an infant as it lay sleeping by its mother outside the
house; the poor goat, I am happy to say, is recovering.
The Nizám-u-Doulah paid us a visit last evening. He
made some observations about my industry, for I was
working at something for C.'s horse. C. said that some-
times he thought I did too much. "Ah!" said the
Nizám, "for a person of intelligence it is a grief not
to work; but let her take two or three pearls, pound
them very fine, and then mix them well with water, con-
taining a little gold and a little silver; let her drink
that, and it will cure her of that hot zeal of heart
which makes her overwork herself. Thus it is written
in books of Grecian science." I could hardly believe
that this exceedingly clever, clear-headed man (whom
Sir William Macnaghten always spoke of as the most
intellectual, sound-minded Asiatic he had ever known,
in which verdict my husband fully coincides) should
have gravely recommended so droll a prescription.
You see I have but very small incidents to relate,
but I think even trifles are worth recording if they help
to give you an idea of the people or country. I am
L 2
220
PROSPERITY OF ANNEXED SIKH STATES.
often reminded of that excellent distinction between
stupidity and ignorance, "on est âne par disposition, on
est ignorant par défaut d'instruction "-for the Afgháns,
though fully equal to Europeans in natural capacity,
make the most ludicrous mistakes as to what is possible
or not, simply from being too ignorant to form any
judgment in the matter. They therefore jump to a
conclusion (Dean Swift would say, "like the ladies in
England"). For instance, nothing but a firm trust in
my husband's veracity induced Hasan Khán to believe
the possibility of an electric telegraph, and yet he
shortly afterwards inquired if we had not a machine
which enabled us to see through mountains, and would
have believed any one who had confirmed his precocious
idea that we had such a thing. I have just heard a
very shocking thing which proves the opinion of the
European soldiers as to the behaviour of H. M.'s 62nd.
Poor things! there was great excuse for them.
Of the
men of the 62nd, who, on the corps quitting India,
volunteered into other regiments, four committed.
suicide, stung to the quick by the taunts and jeers
of their new comrades. One was in H. M.'s 10th,
another in the 53rd, a third in the 80th, and a fourth
in some other.
The people of the annexed Sikh states on both sides
the Satlej are prospering under our rule. One proof of
it is, that waste lands, which were the common property
of everybody, are now become so valuable for agricul
tural purposes, that they are incessant objects of litiga-
tion. The people here used a short time since to import
grain for their own use; now, like Sind, they export.
Traffic is so much increased, that the value of the ferry
tolls has risen immensely; and Hasan Khán told us
that he had been talking to some people from the
Jalander Doáb (which is situated between the Satlej
and the Biás), and they all declared that their falling
into the hands of the British was the most fortunate
event that could have happened for their interests.
They seem to look upon taxes as ridiculously low; and,
although on this side the Satlej I believe the assessment
HINDUSTANI.
221
is nominally rather higher than it was before, yet, of
course, a man would rather pay £10 than be assessed
at £5 and plundered of £20, which was pretty much
their condition when under the Lahore government.
The servants are a constant source of amusement to
me. For instance: the other day I peered through
the screen, and found the bearer in the next room
lying flat on his back in the middle of the floor, and
pulling the Phankah in that fashion. They often pull
the string with their toes. The heat the last few days
has been very great: it was 90° in this cool room at
half-past nine last night.
I take three lessons a week from a Munshí. Hin-
dustani seems to me a very harsh language, full of
gutturals and aspirates: the German ch is the softest of
the Urdu gutturals, and there is one which I despair of,
-in fact, they say none but an Arab can pronounce it
properly then there are innumerable specimens of b’h,
t'h, d'h, gh, and kh, and double aspirates without num-
ber. The word for "good," which is the only way of
saying thank you, is " Ach-ha," which, if properly
pronounced, sounds very much like a sneeze. The verb
is sent to the end of the sentence, as in German; the
verbs are simple and easy, with a very full complement
of tenses. The prepositions and verbs vary their gender
like nouns and adjectives; and the nouns and adjectives
are declined like in German. Hindustani is a mere
lingua franca for the different races which inhabit this
great peninsula. It is composed of Persian and Hindui,
and to the south it has Mahratti and to the north
Panjabi words mixed with it. They say Persian is a
very beautiful language, but most of the Afgháns speak
it as they do Pushtu; so that it gives a stranger about
as much idea of the sound as the broadest Scotch would
of polite English. I am learning to write the Persian
characters, but, as usual, find it much more difficult to
read them.
Saiad Murteza, who was sent by Alí Reza Khan (at
Mohan Lal's suggestion) to Bamián, to negotiate the
release of the hostages and captives with Sáleh Mú-
222
SAIAD MURTEZA SHAH.
hammad, was with us yesterday. He is a Kashmiri,
and except for some defect in the shape of the mouth,
is an extremely handsome man, full of intelligence.
His young grown-up son, who is very gentlemanly,
wrote a few lines as a specimen of penmanship,—an art
much prized in this country. He also embosses words,
flowers, and birds on paper, with his thumb nail, in a
most skilful manner. The way in which Murtezá Shah
happened to be here yesterday was this:-He lent a
certain man 5000 rupees, and received a house in
pledge. Now his debtor refuses to pay, and Saiad
Murtezá cannot sell the house to reimburse himself, as
it does not legally belong to him. If he bring the
matter into Court, he will have five per cent. to pay as
fees, and five per cent. more as a reward to the judges
for doing justice. Is not this last a very wonderful
regulation? The Court here is said to be one of the
most corrupt in India; and thus, although Murtezá
Shah's papers are most clear, the agreement being wit-
nessed by the Kotwál (or native Mayor) himself, his
chance of getting justice would be very doubtful; for
not only is the Deputy Commissioner completely in the
hands of natives, but he never makes an example of a
man who is convicted of perjury, and therefore false
witness flourishes.
Under these circumstances, Murtezá Shah went
yesterday morning to the Deputy Commissioner to con-
sult about this suit. C. happened to be present. Mur-
teza Shah, like all the Afgháns, spoke freely, as one
'man would to another, but in a very moderate manner,
and with great courtesy, as his manners are excellent.
Captain, with the impertinence but too common
among Englishmen towards the poor, their servants,
and all whom they imagine to be in any way beneath
them, would hardly listen, leant back in his chair,
repeating, "I can't do anything, I can't do anything,
and at last cried imperiously, "Jao!"-Go. Murtezá
Shah departed instanter, without even making him a
Salám. C. overtook him at the gate, made him get
into his buggy, and brought him here. The Saiad's
""
RUDENESS TO NATIVE GENTLEMEN.
223
remark was, "What a vulgar tyrannical man !" I really
man!"
think that neither Scotchmen nor Irishmen (I mean
gentlemen) are so overbearing and discourteous as the
universally-by-foreigners-disliked English. There! I
feel better for that long German adjective, for it vexes
me to see our national reputation thus tarnished by
the behaviour of men who, as the Spaniards say, "have
neither formality nor politeness."
The Nizám-u-Doulah, who would be remarked in any
society for his perfect manners, and whose family might
vie with any in Europe, speaking of the English autho-
rities and officers here, said, "I never go near any of
these people, for they don't know how to behave." And
his brother-in-law, Atta Muhammad, described their
behaviour in a very lively way, saying, "Whenever they
see a man with a turban, they cry, 'Oh, here's an
Afghán or a Kashmirí,' adding a most significant shrug,
which implied, 'to worry me out of my life." Is not
this the same complaint that we have so often heard
from every class of persons abroad? and it has always
gratified me greatly when foreigners who knew enough
of the British to distinguish between them, remarked
as Herr K. did, that the Scotch were so much more
courteous and "zuthuend.”
Khán Sahib, a nephew of Ján Fishan Khan, brought
a letter from his uncle to my husband, which out of
respect was sprinkled all over with little triangular bits
of gold leaf. He sent me "many compliments on
account of my virtues, affability, and excellent qualities."
I could hardly reply with proper gravity when this
speech was translated to me.
Sahib Khán is going on to Pesháwur to seek his
fortune, and on taking leave yesterday, asked C. for
some money, as he had none for his journey. They
always ask each other for aid when they want it: C. of
course gave him some, for if he were to ask any money
from Ján Fishán Khán, that gallant Chief would borrow
it at a high interest, and lend it to him without any.
Murteza Shah, too, though he knows that my husband
has little means of being of service to him, volunteered
224
DUST STORM.
the other day to supply him with any sum he might
want.
Last night we had a dust storm, which convinced me
that the accounts I have heard of people having candles
for two or three hours in the daytime were in nowise
exaggerated. It was about six o'clock in the evening,
and the sun of course high, when it suddenly became
very dark. I had just time to shut my ink bottle, and
throw a handkerchief over my work, when it became so
dark that we went groping about as at midnight. The
dog ran up against me without seeing me, and I only
found where my husband was by his voice; it was im-
possible to see one's own hand. It lasted about two
hours. C. told my poor old Ayah that thus would the
Day of Judgment come, suddenly as a thief in the
night. She seemed awe-struck. He afterwards spoke
to Vazírá, the Sirdár bearer, who is a Múhammadan,
and to one of the Phankah bearers, a Hindu, on the
same subject, and told them of Christ as the only
Saviour of men. They both listened with apparent
interest and awe. Vazírá said he knew that Jesus was
a great prophet, but this all Muhammadans grant; they
even believe that he was miraculously born of a Virgin.
C. added, that idolators on that dreadful day would
have no friend. The bearer said "that is Truth."
I had a drive yesterday morning with C. very early,
and saw a magnificent tree, called Amaltás, with broad
leaves and a rich gold coloured flower, like a Brobdignag
laburnum. We passed a drove of asses laden with
mclons; just as one happened to fall out of the bundles,
C. called to the driver to make him remark it. The
man immediately picked it up, ran after us, and thrust
it into the Sáís's hand. Was not this very courteous?
It is curious to see Hasan Khán with Súrmá on his
eyes, and the soles of his feet stained with Henna. An
orderly, who escorted me in my morning walk the other
day, had his eyes carefully tinged with the Surmah, and
the palms of Múrteza Shah's hands were dyed with
Henna. Old men frequently dye their beards red,
which has a most ludicrous effect.
A SEPAHI'S WIFE.
225
وو
On returning from my early walk a few days ago, Ι
found a graceful little creature in nearly tight blue
trousers and white veil, who after making salám, stood
with her hands joined together as if to make some
petition. I inquired who she was. Sepáhi Kí Bibi,
answered the khidmatgars, bearer, ayah and orderlies
with one voice. A soldier's wife, or rather "lady.
When I asked what she wanted, every man answered
in chorus, laying his hand on his stomach, to signify
that it was empty (their invariable gesture, as I after-
wards found, whenever they want either pay or a pre-
sent). I jumped to the conclusion that she was sick,
but fortunately Jacob explained that she wanted me to
ask the Sáhib to make her husband a Jemádar. I told
her that I could not interfere in anything regarding the
regiment; that if the man was a good man he might
promote him, but that even all the good men in the
regiment could not be made Jemádars: that she might
wait and speak to the Sahib herself, but that he was
not pleased when people came to ask him for promotion.
When he returned, she wisely said nothing about the
Jemádarship, but only complained that the subsistence
allowance of two annas a day was not enough for her
husband, herself, and two other wives! which one could
easily believe. C. told her that he had applied for the
pay for his men, and as soon as the answer came from
Calcutta they would get their arrcars, which I dare say
consoled the poor little woman.
The Bábú (as C.'s regimental English writer is styled)
is a Turk, born at Hirát. He generally wears the high
black Persian cap, just like a pastile, but once or twice
he has appeared in a preposterously huge white turban,
which looked exactly as if the sheepskin cap were the
bud, which had expanded into this monstrous flower.
He has received an English education, and, as one of
the results of education without religion, is an infidel,
if not an Atheist. Jacob one day lent him a tract, in
which there was a verse of Newton's beginning, "Oh,
sinner, art thou still secure." He threw it from him
with every mark of anger, and walked out of the room
L 3
226
AN AFGHAN ON FIGHTING.
without saying a word. But Jacob loses no opportunity
of speaking to him, and returns to the charge again
and again. I forgot to mention that the sand storm
the other evening was of a deep red colour, something
like a very red fog in London. This is a rare thing,
and Mr. Blackall tells me it has much disquieted the
superstitious natives. His old bearer said, he had never
seen a red storm since the Siege of Bhurtpur; but
another added, that there was one just before the
Gwalior Campaign. By-the-by, what do you think of
a military man in high office here, and who has seen
service, spelling campaign without a g! Bácdullah cut
his wrist very badly yesterday, but that excellent Matico,
or "Soldier's Herb," stopped the bleeding at once.
One of Hasan Khán's men happened to bring a tray of
melous from his master just as C. was bathing and
bandaging the wound. Báedullah, who had suffered a
great deal of pain, and doubtless felt weak, walked away
with a languid, feeble air, which in such a huge creature
was a little ridiculous. The Afghán, who had watched
the whole operation, looked after him with much con-
tempt, and then turning to my husband, said: "These
Hindustánís are so Názuk,' tender. In Afghánistan
we get wounds of all kinds from our enemies, wounds
from swords, and from guns, and from stones, and never
care a bit. Here we are obliged to be quiet for fear of
the Sahib Lóg (the lordly people, i. e. the British), but
if it were not for them we would soon make short work
with some of these folks." C. told him that Afghánistan
was soaked with blood, and that from every man's blood
a voice went up before the throne of God. He seemed
struck by that, and when C. asked him if that was not
more likely to bring down a curse than a blessing upon
a country, he at once acknowledged that it was. By-
the-by, both Hasan Khán and Murtezá Shah's son have
accepted Persian Testaments. C. also sent one to
Muhammad Shah Khán. If it does him no good, it
may fall in the way of some one else.
A man came here the other day who rendered good
service to my husband when he and the other hostages
A MANTIS-BRIBERY.
227
and captives were on their way to Bámián, and as
they then believed, to almost hopeless slavery in
Turkistan. His name is Amed Khán, a brother of
Mahmúd, the Herâtí servant of Major Pottinger, and
afterwards of Major Broadfoot. When the insurrection
broke out at Kabúl, the two brothers, who were on
leave in Kohistán, became objects of much suspicion,
and saved their lives by enlisting with Saleh Mahomed.
They thus came to be among the guards at Bámián.
He begged C. to take no notice of him, as it would
render him suspected, and then quietly managed to
supply Jacob with such provisions as he could get-
sometimes a few eggs, sometimes a fowl, &c. He is
now a Sáwár in Captain Quin's regiment of Irregular
Horse.
Jacob caught one of the most monstrous creatures I
ever beheld just outside the house. It is not very
unlike a locust carved in ivory, only it has six legs to
its body, and four more smaller legs to support its huge
head. It has hideous nippers, with which it laid hold
of a pen and shook it most fiercely. C. declared, from
its ugliness and malice, that it must be the soul of a
Pope, or an Inquisitor-General. I was told it was a
species of Mantis.
I told you that one effect of an officer putting himself
into the hands of natives is, that he is sure to be
accused of bribery. I have just heard a fresh proof of
it. Captain J., whom my husband believes to be a
most honourable man, is yet considered corrupt by all
the natives; for not only was he completely infatuated
by a very clever Munshí, but when this man was con-
victed of having taken bribes to an enormous amount,
and sentenced to a lengthened imprisonment, Captain
J. had the imprudence to continue his monthly salary
of 100 rupees, and of course all the natives say that
he dared not do otherwise, lest the Munshí should
betray him.
So great is the vanity of some people, that they seem
to consider it a personal insult if either a hint or a
proof is offered that any of their people are dishonest
228
COMMITTEES FOR EXAMINING ARMS.
or corrupt; and as they choose thus to identify them-
selves with their underlings, they are most completely
identified with them by general opinion.
A committee sat the other day to examine the arms
supplied for the use of his regiment. The President of
the Committee, after carefully examining them, re-
marked that they were only fit to be broken up. The
muskets were old and worn out, so that it would be
impossible to fire them; out of 360 only 188 could be
found not utterly useless. The sewing of the belts
gave way at the first touch, and the sheaths of the
bayonets were so bad that the first shower of rain
would complete their destruction. Imagine supplying
a regiment with such arms and accoutrements. At the
first meeting of the Committee, the President was the
only officer there, the two juniors, according to the
custom of the Bengal army, thinking it too much
trouble. C., being accustomed to the strict discipline
of Madras, where, if an officer did such a thing, he
would be reprimanded in orders, or ordered to attend
every day, at twelve o'clock, at his commanding officer's
quarters, in full uniform, for a week at least, expressed
his astonishment to Major F., who is an active and
excellent officer, but who, having been brought up in
this lax school, was astonished at C.'s astonishment,
and asked if he really meant to say that he always
attended a committee when appointed to it; and, when
answered in the affirmative, declared that, of all the
committees he had been on, he had never attended
more than two or three.
Such is the lax discipline of the Bengal army. Yet
the men are naturally so martial, and at the same time
so docile and so gentlemanly, that their efficiency is
unimpaired by it, and they are undoubtedly the finest
Sepáhis in India.
June 17th.-Will you believe that in this weather,
with the rains just setting in, and the thermometer at
91° in our cool sitting-room, C. has just received an
order to return all the extra tents which he got for his
men? In all regiments one tent is allotted to each com-
SUFFERINGS OF THE REGIMENT.
229
pany; but Lord Hardinge chooses to allow only half
that number to the Frontier Brigade, and as they have
no huts, C. retained the full number of tents, which
he had got possession of before this absurd order came.
By the end of this month he expects his regiment will
be raised to its full complement, 800 rank and file,
who are to be crammed into five tents, each tent being
fitted to hold only eighty men.
Dr. Walker, the surgeon of the regiment, has made
an official report to my husband of the great hardships
the men have suffered from being exposed to the heat
and sand-storms in tents, and from having no hospital.
It has produced numerous cases of ophthalmia. Even
the sick have no shelter but a tent; a dust storm comes
and blows it down, and they are left exposed till morn-
ing. Dr. Walker is in temporary charge of the 70th
Native Infantry, who are properly sheltered, and he
gave the following abstract of the state of the two
regiments, showing the suffering entailed on our poor
men.
The daily average in hospital for the week ending
June 11th, 71st Native Infantry, 134; 4th Frontier-
Brigade, 26.
The ratio per cent. (the 71st having its full comple-
ment) was, 71st Native Infantry, 15 per cent.: 4th
Frontier-Brigade, 4 per cent.
In the 71st hospital there is only one case of oph-
thalmia, caused by an accident, In the 4th regiment
of Frontier-Brigade hospital, there are six cases of
ophthalmia, none arising from accident.
230
CHAPTER VII.
Jacob's Illness Committee on Flour-Three Kinds-A Wedding-
Hasan Khan's Friendship-Rudeness-Jacob's Death-Last Letter
-Funeral --Sufferings of Regiment-Rains-"Nelson"--Temperance
-Panjabis on Female Education-Retrenchments-Serai- Prince
Teimur-Little Bird--Scones in the City-Insects-Cleaning Cotton
-Blacksmith-Paying the Regiment-Elephants-New-born Afghan
-Old Ayah-Munshi's English-Fort-Disgrace at Baddiwal
Kashmiris-Inquirers-Soldier-Harmony among Christians-News-
papers-The Prince of Spies-Sepuhi and Peasant's Wife-Shah
Shujah-Legend from the Kuran-Snake-Elephants-Full Dress
Night Shirt Government Regulation and Coffins- A Charm
"
Barsati― Fireworks-Selling Children-Murders-Shiahs and
Sunis-Compliance with Native Superstitions Cat Hunt — Loose
Horse The Four Friends---Mussulmuan Orthodoxy-The Ramazan-
Afghan Noble in Distress-Auakims.
JUNE 18, 1847.-Poor Jacob was taken suddenly very
ill yesterday, with violent fever, and I grieve to say he
is not any better to-day, although there has been a
favourable change in the weather, the first rain having
fallen last night, and some more this morning. As,
however, the hot wind has disappeared, we can no
longer use the Tatties, and are therefore hotter in the
house (the thermometer is 91°), though at the same
time we have the pleasure of having most of our
windows open. We had a fresh breeze until ten o'clock,
which was a great comfort.
June 19th.-Yesterday the hot wind came back, so
it was cool and comfortable in the house. We were
in great anxiety about poor Jacob, but to-day he seems
decidedly better, though still very seriously ill. Three
COMMITTEE ON FLOUR.
231
native officers are uow sitting in this very room in com-
mittee, upon a brass dish of flour, which is placed at
their feet. One of them is the old senior Subádár I
told you of; another is a Hindu, with only a little
moustache, fat and sleek as a banker (I think he must
be of their caste); the third is a very intelligent-look-
ing man, with high marked features, a Sikh. C. is just
now making a specch, to which the Chowdrí listens
with his eyes cast up like a martyr, the IIavildar-Major
with his eyes cast down like a schoolboy hearing his
next neighbour fearfully lectured, and the three officers
with much attention, and I hope edification.
The Havildar Major amused me by making what I
suppose was a statement of facts, and when he had
finished, curling up all his toes backwards. You cannot
imagine what an expressive action it was.
Three different kinds of flour are made from the same
wheat. The wheat is ground between two stones; the
coarsest part, which makes brown bread, is called
Attal," and is that on which the people principally
live; the finest, which is very white, and reduced to
an almost impalpable powder, is called "Maidá;” and
the most precious of all, which is merely the heart of
the wheat, which from its hardness, instead of being
reduced to powder is more like very fine grain, is called
Sují. Their relative value a little time since was exactly
3, 5, and 7. Three sirs of Sují being worth seven of
Attah. We now get 224 sirs of Attal for the rupee.
The sir is equal to a quart. Sugar is almost as dear
in England, about 1 sir of sugar candy, or 3 of very
fine soft sugar, for the rupee. There is no loaf sugar.
C. was obliged to go the other day to his Adjutant's
wedding: I declined on account of the heat. It is
quite à l'Indienne, for they only met three times before
they engaged themselves. Mr. B., the Chaplain, who
was deprived of his license for a time for licensing the
marriage of a lady with her own brother-in-law, is so
scrupulous in unimportant points, that he insisted on
this unfortunate pair being married before twelve.
o'clock. Imagine such a thing in this weather. There
232
RUDENESS TO THE NIZAM,
was a breakfast with quantities of champagne, and from
which C. escaped as soon as he could, and the evening
concluded with a Polka party, which lasted till after
dawn, even the bride remaining until that hour. If any
one were made to undergo all this, what cruelty and
slavery it would be thought.
I must give you a trait of Hasan Khán's generosity,
and his attachment to my husband. C. happened to
mention our debts, he asked some questions as to their
amount, and then said gravely, "You must take 200 of
my 600 a month until they are paid off." When C.
replied that he could not think of such a thing, but that
it was more than many a brother would do, he answered
very earnestly, "Don't say such words to me, but take
the money."
How many of one's friends would offer a
third of their income to free one from debt?
The Nizám-u-Doulah came this evening in great in-
dignation and perplexity, having just received a notifi-
cation, worded in the most uncivil manner, from the
Deputy-Commissioner, that, owing to instructions from
Láhore, "Muhammad Usmán Khán, pensioner," was
to have his pension stopped till further orders, without
affording the smallest clue to the reason of this proceed-
ing. C. promised to write immediately to Lahore on
the subject. Captain's missive was peculiarly insult-
ing from the position of the seal (a huge official seal),
stuck at the top, as if it had been a King writing to a
Kuli, common politeness requiring the seal to be placed
at the bottom of the page, or at the back of the letter.
Hasan Khán on hearing of this, although he does not
like the Nizám-u-Doulah, expressed great indignation
at such treatment, and seemed to think no one's pension
was safe under such a Government.*
Captain C. took tea with us, and exhorted us not to
give up hope about our good Jacob, whom the doctor
considers in great danger.
Sunday, June 20th.-We sent to beg Mr. Rudolph
to pray for Jacob in the congregation: his pulse was
* The Nizam soon after got back his pension, as there was no ground
for withholding it.
1
JACOB'S LAST WORDS.
233
now soft and intermittent, though very quick, and his
mouth partly open. Late in the evening Mr. Porter
and Mr. Rudolph came to see him, and I am sure they
prayed for him, though he was too weak for them to
pray with him. He is moved out into the open air every
night, as he prefers it; but the heat is so extreme, that
I can hardly bear to go out even at nine o'clock. I
think the house far cooler.
On Monday night C. was roused by the servants
(three or four of whom were sleeping or watching round.
(Jacob) by the alarming intelligence that he was quite
delirious. We both got up and found that what they
call symptomatic hydrophobia in a slight form had set
in; his strength was extraordinary, his teeth clenched,
his eyes wild, and he endeavoured to bite those near
him. C. spoke to him of Jesus, which quieted him;
we gave him Belladona, and you may imagine how
earnestly we prayed that Satan might not gain any
advantage over him. He had but one more slight
paroxysm after this. He would not suffer his dear
master to leave him, but held him by the hand, and
when C. asked if his faith were strong in Christ, he
squeezed his hand and nodded. He then struggled
greatly to say something to Baedullah, who was sitting
by him. He pointed to his heart, and then to heaven,
as if he wished to exhort him to believe in Jesus if he
would be saved; and full well did Baedullah know his
meaning, for when C. asked him if he understood what
Jacob meant, he answered, "Oh yes, this is what he has
been saying to me for many days." What a happiness
to have spoken so fully and so conscientiously of the
only way of salvation to those whom we love, that we
need only remind them of our former exhortations when
we come to die! How great would have been poor
Jacob's anxiety, if he had deferred speaking to his old
friend until sickness prevented him doing so. This was
almost the last time he spoke.
I saw him at four A.M., and at six on Tuesday morn-
ing Dr. W., finding him greatly exhausted, recom-
mended wine. Dr. C. soon after arrived.
They wished
234
LAST ILLNESS OF JACOB.
him to have a vapour bath. Two of the bearers, Mrs.
Rudolph's tailor, and I, set to work immediately, and
soon finished a large flannel bag, in which Jacob was
put, one end tied round his throat, and the other round
the neck of a large pitcher of water, which was set on a
portable stove at the foot of his bed. The bag was soon
filled with steam, and thus he had a vapour bath while
lying on his bed. He perspired profusely, but without
any good result. They covered him with two quilts,
and shut up the doors of the room; but the fever only
increased; they put on a large blister, and at night put
another at the back of his neck, and gave him an opiate;
but from the moment the homoeopathic treatment was
left off he grew worse, the fever returned, the inflam-
mation extended, and the next morning C. roused me
about half-past three A.M., thinking he was actually
dying.
He lay apparently unconscious, the mouth half open,
and breathing very hard. We continued giving him
arrowroot by spoonsful every two hours, and water
every now and then; he had sometimes great difficulty
in swallowing, I think from weakness. This little office,
which a few days before I had performed half shily,
thinking the attention from my hand would gratify this
faithful servant, I now felt to be an honour, for it was
ministering to one who was soon to be a sharer of
Christ's kingdom and glory.
Quartermaster Sergeant Wharton, who, as usual, was
here at his office, fed him more cleverly than any of us,
and all the servants tended him in a manner which
showed how much he had won their affection. The
Native doctor of the regiment, who had sat up with
him all night, was most gentle and tender to him,-
much more so than Dr. W., who, though kind, had I
should think never been ill himself, by his ungentle
movements. C. had told the servants the grounds of
our strong confidence that Jacob would soon be in
glory. Bacdullah assented to everything his master
said, as a matter of course. Vazirá, the bearer, listened
earnestly, but spoke not; while the poor old Khalási
"
JACOB'S DEATH.
235
answered in a melancholy tone, "We are only khidmat-
gars; we are only khidmatgars (servants); what should
we know?" The two doctors said all must soon be
over, and left. I think the effect of the opiate wore off,
for there was more intelligence in the eye; and he
seemed to see us, and to hear the texts which we spoke
distinctly in his ear, in hope of giving him support and
comfort, but he could give no other sign.
We sat by the bed alternately or together till about
eleven or twelve o'clock, when C. persuaded me to lie
down. Hasan Khán came, and nearly shed tears. C.
told him how it was that we knew Jacob's salvation
to be secured; and an expression passed across the
Afghán's face; as if he did not feel himself in a state
of safety. As C. left the room, he followed him, and
said carnestly, "Read to him out of your book; it will
do him good; read to him from your book." C. ex-
plained, that although he had not been reading, yet
he had been repeating short passages from that Holy
Book, which satisfied Hasan Khán. I slept a little on
the sofa, for I was very weary, till C. bade me come
quickly. The hard breathing had become softer, the
pulse lower, and just as I got to his bedside, the eye
fixed, and with a gentle sigh our good faithful Jacob
breathed his last on earth. C. said, "Jacob is in
heaven," but I could hardly believe he was gone; only
the chest was quite still. The Native doctor and bearer
both wept; C. closed his eyes, and we bound up the
falling jaw, and then I came away that they might
straighten the limbs. The kind Sergeant washed and
dressed the poor emaciated body.
I had been reading the Hymns on Death in Mont-
gomery's "Christian Psalmist," while sitting by him in
the morning, and that one-
"In vain our fancy tries to paint,
The moment after death,
دو
expressed exactly our feelings. There was nothing but
joy when we thought of him who was once our servant,
now being a son and heir of God, entered into his
inheritance, and walking with Christ in Glory. "His
7
236
HIS CHARACTER.
name shall no more be called Jacob, but Israel, a Prince
with God; but for us, no one can tell how we shall
miss his cheerful, loving service-his watchfulness for our
comfort and interests-his hearty sympathy with us,
and all whom we loved-and his constant reference to
the things of God. Sometimes he would bring a hymn
to show me; sometimes a passage of Scripture which he
did not fully understand:-he was unwearied in endea-
vouring to make known the Gospel to all the servants,
and to every one who came within his reach; and he
had won the love of all of our people by his kindness and
helpfulness. There was only one inconsistency I had
ever remarked in his Christian character, and that was
too much attention to dress; but since he rejoined us,
it had several times struck me how entirely this had
disappeared.
Some of the texts wherewith we endeavoured to
comfort him were: "Let not your heart be troubled,”
&c., John xiv. 1-4; "Fear not, then, thou worm,
Jacob," &c.; and "When thou passest through the
waters, I will be with thee," &c.; "Behold the Lamb
of God, who taketh away the sins of the world;""Who
shall separate us from the love of Christ," &c. &c.
Near the last, one of us was almost always with him,
thinking that it might be a pleasure to him to see
always one whom he loved close to him. The last book
he had been reading was the "Life of Harriet Newell,"
and in it we found a copy of an unfinished letter to his
brother-in-law, which he must have written a day or
two before he was taken ill. I will copy most of it
for you:
"I am happy to say my dear master keep prayers
twice a day.... my time passes more pleasantly than
ever. I read and conversing with my fellow servants,
who I am sorry to say they are all heathens and
Mamodons (Muhammadans). I have been sick about
fortnight, and had 4 dozen leeches, so I am suffering
with pain, sometime is better, sometime is worse, but
I do not know whether my time is at hand. There-
fore our duty to watch and pray always-the day will
JACOB'S LAST LETTER.
237
soon come, and you will see 1 Cor. chap. xv. ver. 52,
in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, at the last
trump, for the trumpet shall sound, and the dead shall
be raised incorruptible, and we shall be changed.'
When the followers of the Lamb are collected from
the east and west, from the north and south, then that
blessed Lord come to judge the world, and there is no
scape from Him. He will judge us according to our
works, therefore, my dear Peter, this is a time to go to
Jesus, who died on the tree for our sins, so let we all
go to Him only. I am absent from church 2 or 3
Sabbaths on count of illness, so I went to church last
Sunday. Pray do go to visit my dear sister often.
Oh that Jesus would support her under all her trials
we are poor children wandering in this wilderness
without parents. So I begin to think I am a very
sinful man, so I myself looking to Jesus where is my
resting place, that is to say, where is my sweet grave.
'O death, where is thy sting? O grave, where is thy
victory? The sting of death is sin, and the strength of
sin is the law; but thanks be to God which giveth
us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ.'.
I am nothing to say the kindness of Captain and
Mrs. M. towards me.
Can it be possible that I
should never see you in this world? Have we then
parted to meet no more this side eternity? we probably
have. But what is this short separation? nothing
when compared to eternal separation, which will take
place at the last day between the friends and enemies
of Jesus. My dear Peter, listen, I entreat you, to a
brother who loves you, who ardently wishes for your
everlasting happiness. Make the friend of sinners your
friend, now while an opportunity is presented.
let not the adversary of souls cheat you out of an
interest in the Saviour. I hope we shall meet again,
even in this world. Such be not, I hope we shall meet
in heaven after death, no more to part. But we never
shall, unless our hearts are renewed, and we made the
friends of Immanuel in this present life. . . . . . May
·
Oh!
238
SUPERSTITION.
Lord bring you all out of Popery, to the Church of
Christ."
All that I have changed in this has been the spelling
of a few words; the style is untouched: you will see
how well he wrote English. By-the-by, when the front
of his head was shaved, we were both struck with its
fine intellectual conformation. Is not this letter a
precious testimony of his faith? I wrote to good
Captain C., who came as early as it was possible that
evening, and both rejoiced and wept with us.
:
A young half-caste-a soldier's son who attends the
Mission school-came to me for medicine, and I took
him in to see this now empty temple of the Holy
Ghost and C. spoke earnestly to him in Hindustáni
on the only way of salvation. They had brought the
coffin, and we all helped to lift the body into it. I put
a clean pillow-case on Jacob's own little pillow, and
we rested his head on it. They brought me a large
plaintain leaf, with nearly all the remaining flowers in
the garden, and we put them on his breast, and over
his body. I had taken a last grasp of his hand before;
it was now quite cold. Captain C., dear C., and the
servants, then lifted the coffin on to the little Charpaí,
and carried the whole into the open air. It was a
satisfaction to perform these last offices with our own
hands; and the next morning my dear husband nailed
up the coffin himself. The face was still unchanged.
Hasan Khán came again in the afternoon, and earnestly
entreated C. by no means to allow the body to remain
in the house all night; but when he found him im-
movable, although he told him that all bad things came
to a corpse, meaning evil spirits (little knowing how
the Lord watches over the tabernacle of his saints), in
the height of his friendship he valiantly said he would
come and watch it himself. He would no doubt have
come armed to the teeth, if C. had not told him that
we meant to spend the evening in considering the word
of God and in prayer.
The servants were evidently full of superstitious fears,
((
JACOB'S FUNERAL.
239
and the old Khalásí was overheard saying to another,
"When he departed one of the Bamboos which sup-
ported the Jhamps (i. e. a kind of screen of matting,)
was carried away," evidently believing that the soul
had carried away the stick. "Yes," said the other,
"and what is more, all the Bamboos fell down." The
fact was, that a little whirlwind came which blew down
one of the Jhamps. The chapter we happened to read
to-day was Isaiah lvii.; nothing could be more appro-
priate, if we remember what Owen says, that "The
righteous is taken away not only from the evils of
judgments, but from that of temptation and sin, which
oft times proves the worst of the two:" that he did
enter into peace," or go in peace, is our firm belief.
Captain C. stayed with us all the evening, and the next
morning at five o'clock the funeral took place. The
Quarter-Master Sergeant, Wharton, who said he was
so accustomed to such scenes, that he felt quite ashamed
of not feeling Jacob's death as he ought, the Sergeant-
Major, and two other Artillerymen, bore the coffin.
A company of Artillery wished to volunteer their
attendance to show their respect for Jacob's character,
but C. thought it best to decline this. Muhammad
Hasan Khán came with Abdulrahmán, son of a brother-
in-law of the Nizam-u-Doulah, who out of respect
arrived counting his beads, and repeating the prayers
for the dead, so that he would not even shake hands
with C. I put on a white dress, feeling that there
ought to be nothing gloomy about Jacob's funeral, and
a black silk scarf over my head. Major Fisher, and
the two doctors, and good Captain C. came; Mr.
Porter was the Minister on the occasion. The chapel
was filled; many of our servants and of Hasan Khan's
attendants were present, as well as the orphans.
Múhammad Hasan Khán and Abdulrahmán sat on
each side of me; the former offered to kneel when we
did, but C. motioned to him to sit still. Abdulrahmán
sat with his fingers in his ears the whole time; yet even
on him the impression was so far favourable from the
simplicity of the worship, that he remarked to Hasan
240
VIEW OF THE HILLS.
Khán when it was all over, "After all there is not
much difference between us and them." At any rate
he saw that we were not idolators. Mr. Porter read
the 15th Corinthians, expounding as he went on. That
beautiful chapter never seemed to be so full of beauty
and comfort before. A hymn was sung and Mr. R.
prayed.
We then resumed our march to the little burying-
ground. C. helped to lower the head into its last
resting-place until it shall rise again in glory. Then
Bishop Heber's Hymn, "Thou art gone to the grave,"
was sung, that and the whole service being in Hindus-
taní, and it was all over. I gave each of the four
Sergeants a copy of Mc Cheynes, "This do in remem-
brance of me;" writing in it, "In memory of Jacob
Augustine, who fell asleep in Jesus, June 23rd, 1847,"
telling them that I had given one to him, and had
found it in his desk after his death. Captain C. stayed
to breakfast and dined with us, which was a great com-
fort. The rains came on that very evening. Hasan
showed such real feeling that his visits were quite com-
forting.
In the afternoon the hills were distinctly visible from
our house, and a most beautiful sight they were, the
highest range capped with snow, and appearing quite near,
though more than 200 miles distant. C. took me out for
a drive. In the night we had a tremendous storm of
thunder, lightning, wind and rain, and we heard the
next morning that C.'s poor men had been obliged to
hold on outside the tents while it lasted, to prevent
them from being blown down upon them. It is great
cruelty keeping them in tents at such a season. Dr.
Mc C. visited our hospital tents the other day, and was
so shocked at the suffering and discomfort, that he
offered a vacant ward in his hospital for their accom-
modation, and I am happy to say they are now there,
with cool and lofty shelter, and with accommodation
for the native doctors and attendants, and room for the
medicines, of all of which there was an utter want
before. Dr. Handyside, of "Tait's Horse," on visiting
THE WEATHER.
241
them one day with the Regimental Surgeon, Dr.
Walker, found those who had blisters on, with the
blister completely dressed with sand.
June 29th.-The change in the weather is most
delightful; we can now go out before sunset, and have
only used the Phankah once for the last six days. It
rains every day, sometimes furiously, but part of the
day has always been fine. It is pleasant to see a varied
cloudy sky as at home. I am very much pleased with
the climate of Loodiana, which is considered one of the
most healthy in India. Almost every one pitied me as
we came up the country for going to "such a wretched
station;" but I have seen no place I should prefer to it.
It is only a few days that the thermometer has been 90°
or 91° in the house; the average has been 85° (with
Tattís and Phankah of course), which is by no means
unpleasant; the mornings have always been cool enough
to go out before sunrise, and the nights have been very
bearable after ten o'clock. We have had no Phankah
at night. In Bengal, the hot weather sets in two months
sooner; the nights are often most oppressive, and the
close stifling heat directly it ceases pouring, is not only
most unpleasant but very unhealthy. The rains are the
unhealthy season throughout the lower provinces. But
the height of the thermometer really gives one no idea.
whatever of the heat which one feels. The other
morning it was so chilly that I sent for a light shawl at
breakfast, yet it was 79°. It is now 82°, a cloudy day
with fresh breeze, a most pleasant temperature. We
are sitting with all the doors and windows open, it is so
cool-and though during that dreadful heat on board
ship when we were becalmed, the thermometer was only
86°, yet I never felt so suffocated.
The Loodiana landscape is greatly improved by the
sudden appearance of ponds in all directions-some of
the roads were impassable the other evening, having
been turned into brooks, and the appearance of some of
the great open spaces in and near the town was exactly
that of the sea-shore, when the tide is out, the sand
being ribbed by the water and interspersed with pools.
VOL. I.
M
242
TEMPERANCE.
I took a walk on the great sandy plain at the back of
our house, which is now firm and pleasant to the foot,
and felt quite inclined to look for the sea. Sergeant
Wharton has given me a little Scotch terrier only five
months old, which being bred in this country, will I
hope live. His name is Nelson, by common consent
contracted into "Nel," and he is the most loving little
thing I ever saw, who follows my every step, and is
never happy unless he is lying close to my or C.'s feet.
He is a great friend of our huge bull-mastiff "Bow-wow."
Mr. Janvier returned from his missionary expedition
on Saturday. He had much difficulty in getting home,
on account of the water, and his buggy is still on the
other side of the Nallah. He dined with us yesterday,
and told me a good deal about the temperance cause,
which has gained such a footing in America that hardly
one Evangelical Christian in five hundred has any
intoxicating liquors in his house. He says he is con-
vinced it will spread in like manner among the Chris-
tians of Britain, and chiefly on this ground, "Not to
eat meat or drink wine, or anything whereby a brother
stumbleth or is offended, or is made weak." On this
ground it is surely our duty, whatever our position,
ladies and children as well as men, to do all in our
power to promote this good cause. Mr. Janvier once
preached a temperance sermon on the text, "Drink no
longer water, &c.," in which he showed that Timothy
was so entirely a total abstinence man as to require
the admonition of his father Paul to induce him to
take a little wine, even when he was sick, and needed
it as a medicine. Then consider that distillation was
not discovered until long after the Christian era, and
you
will see that no Scriptural text relating to wine can
be adduced in favour of our present wines, which are
half alcohol; and if even the old Jewish wine was a
mocker," so must every kind of fermented liquor be.
I am sure the Missionaries here could never go through
the labour they do, particularly the exposure to the sun
and Bazár preaching, if they drank either wine or strong
drink.
POLKA-BALLS.
243
I was telling Mr. Janvier that Mr. Rudolph did not
know what the polka was, which to me, who had been
so weary of hearing of it, was a cause of envy. He
said that, having been brought up in a pious family, he
had never seen any of these things, and did not even
know what kind of dance a waltz was. He said there
were many in America in a similar state of happy
ignorance. I should suppose from what he told us that
American Christians are more separate from worldly
ways and worldly society than the majority of even real
Christians in England. He says that even in general
society there is less dissipation in the way of going out
than there used to be, and that it was never carried to
such a height as it is in England, many worldly families
wholly avoiding balls, &c.
July 3rd, 1847.-We have had no rain for two or
three days; it is therefore very hot again; thermo-
meter 89° in the day. But it is very pleasant when
we drive out at night; neither is the heat in the day-
time that close damp heat which I expected it would be.
Two Punjabis called here the other day with a letter
from the Sirdar Lená Sing, asking for C.'s interest in a
cause which is now before Captain 's court. One,
a Mussalman, is Lená Sing's Munshí, a very clever-
looking man, with a remarkably fine forehead and rather
handsome features, but such a crafty, false expression
and manner! His companion was a Sikh. C. explained
the manifold writer to them. I had just been using it;
so they inquired if I really wrote with it, and on
receiving an affirmative answer they exclaimed, "Won-
derful, that such science should be in a woman!" C.
took the opportunity of impressing upon them some
wholesome facts. "We educate our women," he said,
"that they may be good wives and good mothers; for
a man can hardly be a good man without a good mother,
and, from being taught a pure religion, our women
remain pure-minded, and are not like the women of this
country, whose minds are polluted with vice.” The
Munshí agreed as to the general principle, but omitted
all notice of the pure religion.
M 2
244
AMERICANISMS.
I have lately seen some very droll Americanisms in
the "Presbyterian," an excellent paper. A writer is
styled "a very handsome author," meaning a good and
clever one, and quite irrespective of his appearance,
which may be the reverse of comely. A clergyman
says, he "hails" from such a place, a very nautical
metaphor. Things are "loaned," not lent. A minister
advocating temperance said, that "families would be
happified;" another gravely relates that he felt or
looked "solcmncholy," and "wrathy." "Avails" is
used for proceeds or profits; and a writer says he does
not know if Jenny Lind intends to sing on her own
hook;" and a minister offers to take "the stump."
66
An order has lately been received from head-quarters,
stating that the men transferred from the Umballa
Police Battalion, old soldiers of four or five years'
standing, are to be paid as recruits,-a great injustice
to them, and very small saving to the Government.
Lord Hardinge has disbanded between 20,000 and
30,000 men; among others, a Sikh battalion of Artil-
lery, just raised, the men of which were real Sikhs,
that people being particularly good artillerymen. C. has
got about thirty of them. Another was the Bandlekand
Legion, a very fine body, who volunteered for service
in Sind, when the regiments of the line mutinied and
refused. Another was the Shckawatti Brigade, which
was almost entirely composed of robbers. They made
excellent soldiers, and now being let loose will doubt-
less make better and more daring robbers than ever.
When we were at Agra a certain petty Rajah had just
been rescued from the gaol there by a party of despe-
rate followers of his, and no sooner was the Shekawatti
Brigade quite out of the way than this very individual
and his men made a daring attack on the Commissariat
at Nasirabad, which had been thus left defenceless,
killed the feeble guard of Sepális, aud carried off all
the money in the treasury. Reductions of this kind
have never been made without the whole number
disbanded being raised again from necessity, in a
very short time. But there is what Mr. C. calls
THE TRAVELLERS' SERAI.
245
"financial pressure," which influences the Home au-
thorities.
Last night we drove into the great Serai for native
travellers. It is a very large one-storied quadrangle of
low rooms, each with a separate door opening into the
court. It is entered by an arched gateway, with a
recess or chamber on each side for the guard in
troublous times, and with a chamber above for the
watch to look out. There was an interesting scene
within. Hindus and Muhammadans all peaceably
together, but sitting apart from cach other; some
cooking, some lighting or fanning their fires, some
lying on their Charpáis, some feeding their cattle. Here
were patient camels; there, little rough, wretched-
looking ponies, or a magnificent pair of stately white
oxen, rather the worse for a long journey. Two Mus-
sulmáns were praying on the housetop, with their
figures in strong relief against the glowing evening
sky; a party of travellers were just proceeding on their
journey in covered bullock carts, and a strong scent of
sandal-wood from one corner told that there were
women within; while two Faqirs were melodiously
chanting some monotonous song, and receiving alms
from the temporary inmates of the Serai. The great
Muhammadan sovereigns used to build magnificent
Serais all along their trunk roads, partly out of policy
for the encouragement of merchants or the shelter of
their troops, and partly as a meritorious act of charity.
Each traveller pays two pie a night, for which a charpai
is provided for him, and his food is cooked, he providing
the food and fuel. Those who are very poor and sleep
on the ground instead of on a charpai, pay only one
pice, or less than a halfpenny. Choukedars, or watch-
men, move about all night to prevent thefts.
After tca, C. and I, attracted by the lovely moonlight,
took a walk round our premises. Our horses, four in
number, were tied to trees in front of their stables,
and all the servants, except two or three who have
houses in the city, sleep on their charpáis in the open
air, my Ayah among them. We threaded our way
246
SIGHTS.
gently through them, and found one or two, who are
very poor, sleeping on the ground, so that our night's
walk will get them a present of charpáis-for they are
likely to get fever without any. In one verandah the
bearer sleeps with "Bow-wow," our great dog, chained
to a pillar near him; on the other side is the guard, so
that we can leave our doors open.
Thursday, 8th July, 1847.-We had a delightful
drive on Tuesday evening after the rain, and met the
Shahzadeh Teimur taking the air in a state Nalki, or
royal palanquin, like those we saw at Dehli, in which
he was sitting cross-legged, preceded by divers runners,
some in scarlet, and others with blue caps, and fol-
lowed by some horsemen. It formed a pretty, gay-
looking procession. He is rather a fine-looking man,
and made us two most amiable salams. A little fur-
ther we met a young Mussalmán with a very pretty
bird, called a Byera, on his finger. We stopped the
'Buggy and it came on my hand. It was about the
size of a large bullfinch, with a bright yellow top-knot
and breast. He was teaching it to catch Kauris;
letting one fall, the bird catches it in the air. A little
further we passed a poor man begging by the wayside.
Both his hands had been cut off and his nose slit, as a
punishment, whether just or not it is impossible to say.
Thus in this short drive we saw three things that would
be considered "sights" at home.
I told you of Hasan Khán offering C. a third of his
monthly pension. He actually brought the 200 rupces,
and very nearly cried, he was so vexed when C. assured
him that it was quite impossible for him to accept it.
It was really worth while having a debt, that one may
learn the difference between one man and another.
Our evening drives through the city always divert me.
The whole population is out of doors, either sleeping
or smoking, or roasting and fanning Kabobs. They
use so little fire that they are obliged to fan it all the
time, and our Sáis has hard work in clearing the way
of pcoplc, children, and cattle, the latter of whom lie
down in the very middle of the road. It is no wonder
KULIS-LOCUSTS.
247
to me that almost all Indian officers are in debt, for
few of them scem to deny themselves anything they
are inclined for. An Adjutant, who has just married a
penniless girl, has eight horses, another officer on 500
rupecs a month keeps two carriages. To my great
amusement I find it is not uncommon for officers to
pride themselves on their skill in making particular
dishes.
Some of our rooms having leaked a little, cight poor
little Kúli children, both boys and girls, were employed
all day carrying earth in small baskets on their heads
to the top of the house, to make it water-tight. They
are paid three or four kouris for every basketful. There
are sixty kouris to a pice, which is rather more than a
farthing; but in the evening we gave them a rupce as
bakshish, with which they were overjoyed.
Captain C., who came to tea, caught a locust; the
first of these beautiful creatures that I have seen dis-
tinctly. The body and legs are covered with alternate
bands of the most brilliant green and yellow; and when
the sun shines on a flight of them, the effect is said to
be magnificent. A beautiful insect appears in great
abundance after the first rains; it is something like
a large short legged spider, with six legs, but of the
colour and appearance of bright scarlet silk velvet.
The native name of it is bir bahatti.
Instead of being able to buy things ready-made in
the Bazár, one generally has to send for a man to come
to the house and make them. Two Kúlis have been
all day making door-mats. They stick four pegs into
the ground, and fasten two bamboos to them: thus
forming a frame on which they work the mat. I have.
also had some cotton cleaned. You buy it dirty, and a
man comes with a thing somewhat like a bow, the
wooden part is slung to the roof of the verandah, and
the cotton is brought against the string, which is made
to vibrate forcibly by striking it with a piece of wood :
the cotton is thus thoroughly sifted and divided. I
wanted a tin box soldered; for in the rains, every-
thing must be carefully packed in cloth or flannel, and
248
PAYING THE REGIMENT.
then in tin. A Kúli came and formed a little furnace
close to the verandah, by lighting a very small fire of
charcoal, making a little hole about two feet distant for
the nose of his bellows (which were made of the skin
of a goat, with a slit at the back, which he alternately
opened and closed), and connecting the bellows and fire
by a little underground passage. I was quite pleased
with this simple, ingenious contrivance.
July 9th.-Mr. Janvier told us, that when he was at
Simla, a few weeks since, he and a brother missionary
in bad health went to the house of the Rov. Mr. W., a
Church of England missionary, to join in public worship
on the Sabbath. To their astonishment and grief, they
found all the repairs of his house going on, and work-
men in full activity, as if it had been a week-day.
Mr. J. felt it his duty to write to him on the subject,
especially as even public works have been lately sus-
pended on the Sabbath; but he has as yet received no
answer, and does not much expect one.
Hasan Khan's Peshhidmat came yesterday, to an-
nounce that a son had just been born to his master;
and when we expressed our satisfaction, he said, “Glad!
of course you are glad; who is to be glad if you are
not?" and then wished that I might be equally fortu-
nate-a wish that Hasan Khán himself made me a few
days ago, when we told him of the birth of dear L.'s
little son.
It reminded me of Laban's blessing to his
sister Rebecca. He sent me some sweetmeats in the
afternoon; among them were some excellent sugar-
plums, that we thought were made of pistachio nuts,
but which we found were channa, a kind of field pea,
on which the horses are fed.
C. has been engaged the whole day paying about
460 of his incn. It has been a curious scene. They
came about 10 A.M., and a fine set of men they are,
mostly tall. Four officers came with them; one, a
Sikh, looked very droll in his English uniform, with
very short white trousers with straps, a long beard,
Jewish physiognomy, and yellow and purple turban.
The men were mostly in their "half-mounting," or
GOVERNMENT ELEPHANTS.
249
undress, blue jacket, white dhoti (or cloth which serves
instead of trousers), and red skull-caps, round which
many of them had bound cloths of all colours, to pro-
tect them from the sun. They filled all the verandahs,
and sat under all the trees they could find. I saw a
group of perhaps fifteen or twenty, with one scarlet
umbrella in the midst of them, flattering themselves, I
The
suppose, that its mere vicinity was of some use.
money-bags, which I keep in a great red sca chest in
our bed-room, were brought out; the four native
officers sat on chairs against the wall, some with one
foot drawn up on the chair, and the non-commissioned
officers sat on the floor and counted out the money.
occasionally went to spy them through the blinds.
Those who had received their pay seemed quite asto-
nished at the sight of rupees, they had been so long
without any. One huge Sikh reminded me very much
of a hairy merchant scaman: he had a loose blue jacket,
and though his trousers were rather too tight for a tar,
yet altogether he had much the look of one.
I
We drove out this morning with the intention of
paying Hasan Khán a visit, but on reaching his house.
we heard such a noise of musicians within, that we
went on to the "Fil Khana," where the Government
elephants are kept, close to the fort. Here we got
out, and walked among them. I thought how much
interested our children would have been at seeing such
a number of these huge creatures, cach peaceably
feeding on a little slope, with his face towards his
keeper's hut; most of them being fastened by so small
a rope that it could only serve as a hint that he was
expected to stay there. We saw one which they said.
was cleven feet high. Another who was pointed out
to us as the most sagacious of all, is only thirty years
old, and therefore not come to his full strength: he
had such a crafty, wise, wizened face, and a mild eye,
just like a philosopher. One or two were wicked, but
most of them very gentle. This wise one was fanning
himself with the long stalks of grass given him for his
food. It is curious to see the difference of expression
M 3
250
NEW-BORN AFGHAN.
and countenance in the different elephants; one near
the philosopher had a foolish, good-natured, weak face,
like dozens of people I have seen. At some distance, a
very wicked one was chained to two large trees; he is
so savage that sometimes he will not suffer his máhout
to come near him, or even the bhistí who brings him
water, so that he goes without any for days. He killed
two men at Laknao; and watched us out of the corner
of his eye in a way I did not much like. Not far from
him was a sick clephant, ninety years of age; by no
means past work. He was very thin, and his face like
that of an old man, with sunken cheeks and rheumy
eyes. My heart warmed to the good old crcature; for
I love anything old, for my dear father's sake, and I
remembered that the elephant was just his age. They
had given him only the fresh green tops of the karbi,
instead of the whole stalk, as they do to the others.
Each elephant has two men to wait on him and
manage him: his food costs two rupees daily; so that
the whole expense is about seventy rupees a-month for
cach.
On returning, we went to Hasan Khán's, where the
music had now ceased. The uproar it made was enough
to have killed both mother and child, if they had not
had very strong nerves. You never saw anything so
droll as the baby; it had a great aquiline nosc, its
eyelids were tinged with antimony, and its eyebrows
painted so as to meet in the middle. It was swaddled,
though not tightly enough to prevent its moving its
limbs; but the arms are put behind its back, just as if
for the first eight or ten months of its existence it was
to be perpetually saying spelling lessons. Bibí Jí (its
mother) was dressed as usual, sitting up in her bed. I
gave her a ring, and baby a piece of cloth, to make
little chogahs for him. Three old Afghán women came
in, who stroked and hugged Lala Bibí's head, and
kissed little Padimah vigorously. They all rose and
remained standing when Hasan Khán came in.
You cannot imagine what an exercise of patience
my old Ayah is. She is almost utterly useless except
ALIWAL AND BADDIWAL.
251
to fetch and carry. She brought me a satin and a
prunclle shoe; I showed her that they did not match,
whereupon she put them both down, and brought me
the other prunelle and the other satin one.
One even-
ing I was going to pay a visit, and desired her to give
me the "Topi," which is the generic name for both
bonnet and hat, "in that trunk," pointing to it. With
the gravest face in the world, she opened a neighbour-
ing Pitarrah, and brought me C.'s black velvet hunting-
cap. My Munshí can speak very little English. He
translated "sweet," read the epithet of a person, by
"sweet-meat," and when I ask him why a letter is made
in such a way, he says for "be-u-ti-ful." He told me
the other day that the Avadavats are called "lal," or
red, because "the masculine red here," stroking his
throat and chest; he is, however, a very painstaking,
intelligent man. He always speaks of a nosal (instead
of nasal) Nún (N).
Monday, July 12th.-C. took me to the Fort in the
evening. To us who have seen nothing but barren
sand for so long, the country, with its patches of verdure
and pools of water, now looks quite pretty. It is a view
which we should pronounce "frightful" at home. The
colouring of the sky, and indeed of every object, is, how-
ever, truly beautiful during the rains. Mr. Ryan, the
Conductor of Ordnance, who has charge of the Fort,
showed us where the Sikh army were encamped last
year. All the ladies took refuge in the Fort, and the
numerous fires of the refugees put Mr. Ryan in per-
petual fear for the powder magazine. He truly said
that if Sir Harry Smith had not gained the battle of
Aliwál he must have been disgraced for his want of
common sense (to say nothing of generalship) at Baddi-
wáll, which is close to Loodiana; for by unnecessarily
marching close to the Sikh force, instead of within cover
of the fort, he lost every atom of his baggage, and had
all his sick and wounded massacred in their litters-but
of this not a word is now heard. Mr. Ryan spoke like
a Christian man of our wonderful deliverance during
the late war, for nothing but the panic which it pleased
252
KASHMIRI WOMEN- AN INQUIRER.
God to put into the hearts of the Sikhs prevented the
destruction of our enfeebled force. Returned through
such narrow streets that we could not overturn, for they
were but little wider than the Buggy. It seemed quite
the Kashmírí quarter of the town, for we saw many of
that yellow race.
Their skins are literally yellow; many of the women
have beautiful features, and in spite of dirt and poverty
one can fancy that when young their complexions must
resemble that of a peach. Some of the women were
smoking—one of them with a baby in her arms. The
women wear a red cap like a Constantinopolitan Fez,
with a veil over it, trousers, and a sort of loose shirt
fastened at the throat, and reaching nearly to the feet,
which is never taken off while it will hold together!
We passed a group of men gambling, of which they are
exceedingly fond. The game " Pachísí" is played with
markers on a cross made up of squares.
Tuesday, July 13th, 1847.-Two inquirers have lately
come to the Mission, one a Jew from Herat; another a
Mussalman from a village near this, who has thank-
fully accepted the office of Mr. Janvier's Phankah
Wallah at three rupees a month, in order to be here
and receive instruction in the Gospel. This poor man
afterwards died of consumption, expressing to the last
his trust in "Isa Masih" (Jesus the Messiah) alone for
salvation. There were no particular marks of deep feel-
ing, but all he said was satisfactory, and his conduct
blameless and consistent.
J.
Captain Conran showed me a very interesting letter
the other day from one who was formerly a reckless
soldier in the artillery, now a zealous Missionary near
Agra. The Pastor of the largest Baptist Church at
Agra was formerly a private-so was another Minister
now at Cawnpoor. The discharge of the latter was
purchased by some poor soldiers who afterwards main-
tained him out of their pay, and when they could no
longer do this, some from another regiment came to his
help. In almost every regiment there is a little band
of Christians who hold their prayer-meetings even when
FREEDOM FROM SECTARIANISM.
253
marching. There is one in the artillery here in which
Captain C. generally takes the lead, though he exhorts
the men to do so themselves. Christians in India are
certainly much less sectarian than at home. For in-
stance, Captain C., though at the time a member of the
Church of England, worshipped and communicated
regularly with the Baptist Church at Agra, just as
Captain and Mrs. R., and others, do with the Presby-
terian Church here. I have seen Christians who have
never met a Puseyite, and, generally speaking, they
seem to put minor differences out of sight, and to be
knit in an Evangelical Alliance with all who love the
Lord Jesus.
I dare say this arises in a great measure from their
being so scattered and so often deprived of Christian
society, and of the public means of grace; this makes
them joyfully greet a brother Christian whenever they
fall in with one, and gladly avail themselves of any
opportunity of hearing the Gospel preached by any
Minister. This feeling extends in a great measure even
to those who are not decidedly pious.
Mcn give
largely to support Presbyterian Missions, who, in Eng-
land, would probably think it a duty "to support their
own Church and oppose Dissenters.'
دو
So even India has its peculiar religious advantages.
I also think that a very retired life is beneficial to the
mind, at least for a time. Those who have led it for
long say that one becomes indolent and listless in con-
sequence of prolonged scclusion.
The public press in India seems to me in a very low
state. You cannot imagine the nonsense, the twaddle,
the petty gossip, and the vulgar mess-table and barrack-
room jokes and slang, with which the newspapers are
filled.
"The Friend of India," is one of the few which
assumes a higher tone: usually they are filled with
petty professional squabbles, attacks of the coarsest
kind on rival Editors by name, questions on the most
trifling points of etiquette, e.g. whether the wife of a
Major and C.B. ranks above the wife of a Colonel, who
Uor M
254
NEWSPAPERS.
is not a C.B., whether a rifle will carry 1760 yards,
inquiries for deciding bets, accounts of every ball, and
how many proposals were made, and some hopeless
efforts at wit, and in some of them occasionally an
infidel letter on some point of Christian doctrine. But
however defective the newspapers are in many ways,
they are invaluable auxiliaries to truth and justice in
others. They make known abuses, and cause inquiry
into many affairs which would otherwise never see the
light of day. For instance, they have just published a
correspondence proving that the late Colonel Davidson,
of the Engineers, (who was dismissed the service for
failing to prove the charges which he brought against
another officer of the same corps), was the victim of a
cabal between the Military Board, now happily abolished,
and certain officers who sought to ruin him, in order to
conceal their own malpractices. They were but too
successful. Colonel Davidson failed to prove the charges
he had brought was dismissed the service, and died
suddenly March 31st, 1852. His widow petitioned the
Court of Directors for assistance, but they declined, on
the ground that her husband was not a subscriber to
either the Military or Orphan Funds. The poor lady
replied by a second petition, stating that her husband
had been a subscriber to the Orphan Fund for thirty-six
years, and entreating that her youngest child (of twelve
years of age) might be placed on that Fund. She then
brings forward these proofs of the iniquitous plot against
her husband. "Answer returned by the Court, July
2nd, 1852: No aid or assistance," Whereupon "The
Englishman" publishes the memorial and proofs, and
the Delhi copies of them, and perhaps the press may
succeed in making the Court hear on "the deaf side of
its head."
.
The "Bombay Guardian," a weekly paper, is admi-
rable both for talent and principle; the most offensive
feature in the tone of some of the Indian newspapers is
its gross infidelity: not only gross indeed, but stupid to
a climax!
1
THE PRINCE OF SCOUTS.
255
Every one's character in India is fully known to the
whole community, so that the bad example of many in
positions of great influence is most pernicious.
The heat has been greater than we have yet felt it,
for there has been no rain for the last ten days, and as
the hot winds have ceased we cannot use Tatties. The
thermometer has been from 91° to 95° daily, but the
evenings are alway pleasant.
A very remarkable man came just as we were going
to drive out the other night, an Afghán of the name of
Suleyman Khan. I was quite struck by his counte-
nance, which is full of quickness, talent, and decision,
with magnificent eyes and eyebrows, a sweet and win-
ning expression when pleased, and a small, well-made,
wiry frame fitted to endure any amount of fatigue. His
boldness, intelligence, and determination, render him
the first of spics and scouts, and he was high in the
confidence of Mr. George Clerk and Major Broadfoot.
He is just returning from a visit to the former at
Bombay, and told with much satisfaction how well the
Governor had received him, embracing him before.
everybody. He spoke of the confidence Major Broad-
foot had placed in him, but added, "If I had committed
a fault he would have hanged me in five minutes."
By birth Suleyman Khan is a poor Afghán of good
family. He had hurt his foot very much, so that when-
ever he mounted on horseback the blood gushed out ;
but he did not seem to care for it. He is just the kind
of man you read of in a novel, who guides the hero
through unimaginable difficulties, and gets himself in
and out of unimaginable dangers.
The other evening I happened to go to the back of
the house, and found a most curious assemblage. The
orderlies, all our servants, and some sepáhis, were there
together, with an elderly peasant, and near him a
woman on her knees. My husband was speaking loudly
in an indignant tone, and the old Ayah, as usual, was
sitting in the verandah with her elbows on her knees,
and her chin on her hands, sceing what was to be scen.
Suddenly, just as I arrived, C. ordered the woman to
256
A SEPHIAI AND PEASANT'S WIFE.
depart, and our people unanimously ran at her, each
man flourishing a duster, and waved and pushed her
away with every mark of indignation, while the Sikh
peasant seemed much obliged. I found afterwards
that this poor man had come to complain that a Sepáhi
had carried off his wife, and that she was then in the
lines.
C. sent the Havildar-Major to arrest the Sepáhi, and
to turn the wretched woman out of the lines. The
soldier was gone to the Bazár, but a party was sent
after him, and the woman was brought here. C. told
her, if she was caught again within his lines he would
shave her head (I was sorry he did not have it done at
once). She began to defend herself, whereupon he
ordered her to vanish instantly.
.
The Sepahi was put in the guard-house, and after-
wards publicly kicked out of the regiment (literally so),
as a warning to others. C. published a Regimental
Order on the subject, which was explained to the men
at two successive roll calls.
Saturday, July 17th, 1847.—Abdulrahman Khán
paid us a visit. Speaking of Shah Shujah, he said his
own fondness for reading had been cultivated chiefly by
him. The Shah, who was an accomplished scholar,
used to take him on his knee, make him read and spell,
pat his head and give him a Chogah to encourage
him.
"He made me what I am," continued he;
"he gave
me learning, he gave me honours, and now if I were
to go back to that country, and they were to give me
thousands, it would be nothing to me; and except that
I know that it is God's will that I should live, my life
would be a burden to me." As you might see, by his
behaviour in the chapel at Jacob's funeral, when he sat
with his fingers in his ears, Abdulrahman is a bigotted
Mussulman; but having mentioned the name of Pha-
roah, C. told him the history of Joseph, and of the
deliverance of Israel out of Egypt, saying that all these
things were written in the Tourah or Old Testament,
and offered to lend him a Bible, for which he said he
should be much obliged.
MUHAMMADAN TRADITIONS.
257
"Pro-
In speaking of the Scriptures he used the term
Kallam ul illah, or "Word of God," which they apply
to the Kuran, and like all Múhammadans, he never
names our blessed Lord without styling him a
phet on whose name be blessings." He related a long
story from the Kuran, which shows how the facts of
the Gospel have been distorted by Muhammed. He
said that Jesus wishing to know if the owner of a cer-
tain beautiful garden were truly grateful to God, entered
it and asked him for some of the grapes that were
hanging in rich clusters from the vines. The owner
refused, whereupon Jesus left the garden, and the
churlish proprietor saw to his dismay, that every cluster
of grapes had been turned into a human head dripping
with gore.
"
He hastily overtook our Lord, and besought him to
remove the spell, which he did by prayer, and then
admonished the man, that whenever God gave bless-
ings, it was that they might be shared with others.
It is hardly possible to quote any moral precept of the
Gospel to a Mussalman without the latter capping it, as
it were, with a similar maxim from the Kuran; but
these gems of truth are hidden under a mass of “ pro-
fane and old wives' fables." We had a very pleasant
drive on Saturday evening (towards Filor, crossing the
old bed of the Sutlej and a nallah). Saw a small snake
in a tree, which my husband killed with the butt end
of his whip. It was above two feet long, beautifully
marked, but with a flat head, and a tail tapering off
very abruptly, two sure signs of a venomous snake.
Several labourers and passers by saw its death with
great satisfaction, especially a traveller with beads round
his neck, who said with a kind of horror, "It is an
excellent thing it is killed, for it might have come out
in the morning thirsting for something and have bitten
ME."
On coming home we stopped at a great well, to
see the elephants get their evening allowance of water.
The docile creatures came forward or gave way to
others, just as they were bidden-the Mahout turned
one of them hastily out of our way, for he was a
<<
:
258
GOVERNMENT REGULATION.
smiter." The Bhistis put a leathern bucket of water
before the clephant, who fills his trunk, and then blows
it down his throat, making about two mouthfuls of the
bucketful. Close by was a drove of camels, and on the
other side some little mules, all forming a picturesque
scene in the glowing twilight. The city police, which
is generally drawn up for their evening muster about
the time we pass, is a very ludicrous body, with no
particular dress, but mostly armed with spears. We
passed a little circle of men sitting on the ground
and singing, or rather "crooning" a plaintive air in
chorus.
I was very much amused the other day by one of
the Havildars who came here with an English night-
shirt for his sole upper garment. It was very stiff and
clean, and looked more absurd than can well be ima-
gined. He doubtless thought himself arrayed in the
newest mode. He had a white cloth bound tightly
round his head and hanging down his back. He brought
a Scpáhi to be reprimanded, and I did not dare to look
up for fear the poor man who had misbehaved should
think I was laughing at him.
July 23rd. I will give you an instance of what
would be called trickery in an individual, but which is
styled a Government Regulation. The Quarter-Master-
Sergeant related the other day, that a Company's recruit
is told in England that he will get sixteenpence a day.
When he arrives in India he finds this, under divers
pretexts, diminished to fourteenpence, and monstrous
to relate fifteen days' pay is taken from him-you would
never guess why-to buy his coffin. Supposing that he
lives to retire, he gets neither coffin nor his pay returned.
Do you remember what the author of "Essays in the
Intervals of Business," says of the different way in
which men act as individuals and as members of a
committee? and the same holds true of public bodies.
and governments. The responsibility is divided, and
therefore they will commit acts as a body which they
would shrink from in a private capacity.
In our evening drive we passed a number of men
at "
INSECTS.
259
sitting on the sand much as if they were going to play
honey pots." We asked them what they were
doing. They said they had been trying a charm to see
whether the monsoon (rainy reason) would be favour-
able, and whether the harvest would be good—and it
would be very good.
:
We continued our drive literally cross country. The
landmarks are formed by little pyramids of mud. The
evenings and sunsets, during the rains, are lovely, but
the name "rains" is often a misnomer, when one gets
so far north as thus far we have only one rainy day in
ten dry ones. The rains are considered the most un-
healthy season of the year: swarms of insects and
creatures of all kinds make their appearance; generally
one particular species predominates for a few days.
For some time we had white ants, with long gossamer
wings, then black beetles, large and small, in such
numbers that it was hardly possible to have family wor-
ship at night, we were so much disturbed: then numbers
of hairy orange-coloured caterpillars come galloping
over the carpet with wonderful speed: musquitoes are
abundant, and so are a beautiful kind of moth, with
scarlet bodics and white wings edged with red. Any
sore is most difficult to cure during the rains, especially
on animals; and horses are subject to a very infectious
disease, called barsati (or monsoon) ulcer, which is con-
sidered incurable, as it is sure to return.
""
Hasan Khán came the other day chiefly, I think, to
display a beautifully embroidered new dress. I do not
know what made him speak of relationship, when he
expounded to us that those who are "of one milk,'
that is, of the same mother as well as father, are more
closely related than any others, nearer even than parent
and child. One may casily understand that this is the
case among the Moslim, where there are children by
half a dozen different wives, each with rival interests
and sharing in the rivalries and enmities of their
mothers.
Thursday, July 29th.-In passing through the city
the last two evenings, I have been astonished at the
260
FIREWORKS-CHILD STEALING.
number of rockets going off in all directions; quite
poor people indulging in the luxury of fireworks. It is
very pretty, as we sit at tea before the house, to see
them rising all round the plain, looking like fiery ser-
pents chasing each other. To-day is a great Múham-
madan festival, when they make offerings for the souls
of the dead, and believe that they are in some way
gratified by the fireworks, which have been going on
with redoubled vigour. We went out into the verandah
after our drive, and about a dozen of our servants began
their display. It was really very pretty, and I longed
for the children to enjoy it with us. Besides rockets.
and a wheel, which greatly astonished Bow-wow by
sending forth a shower of fire over and over again, just
as he thought of attacking it: there were a number of
little things which they call anár, or pine-apples. These
they place in rows, and cach sends up a shower of fire
like so many little fire-pots instead of flower-pots.
Sulcimán Khán, the Kundschafter I told you of, was
contrasting the present state of Loodiana with what it
was under former agents. Formerly, any one who was
convicted of selling a child was severely punished, and
condemned to the roads for a term of years. Now it is
openly done every day. Three men were found strangled
on the high road, close to Aliwál, about fifteen miles.
from this, and were buried at the back of our lines, and
such is the supineness of the civil authorities here, that
I suppose nothing more will be done. Dost Múham-
mad, the poor Kashmirí, whom we have been treating
so long for ophthalmia, was assaulted yesterday in broad
daylight, and most cruelly beaten and kicked by some
of his countrymen. He is a Shiáh (who do not number
above twenty houses in Loodiana), while the Súnís, of
which party his assailants were, are 20,000. This will
make it difficult for him to get justice. Hasan Khán
and most of the Afgháns are Súnís; the Persians and
Kazilbáshis are Shiáhs. Mr. Anderson, from whom we
heard not long ago, on his return to Bombay vid Persia,
says the religion of the Persians consists in the poem
of Hasan and Hoseyn. The two sects hate each other
1
COMPLIANCES WITH IDOLATRY.
261
bitterly: I asked my Munshí some questions about the
wooden camels I saw during the Muharram in Cal-
cutta. His knowledge of English being quite inade-
quate to express his feelings, he turned to my husband,
and begged him to explain to me, that it was "part of
the idolatry of those abominable Shiáhs, and that
many of the Súnís had been led into partaking in these
ceremonies without understanding them."
Thursday, August 5th, was a Muhammadan festival,
in honour of one of their saints, who is buried here,
and over whose body the British Government has built
a tomb, because they thought that the prosperity of the
place would be increased by the mélá or fair annually
held at his shrine. This is, indeed, forgetting that
"rightconsness alone exalteth a people." The com-
pliances with both Muhammadan and Hindu super-
stition, of which men calling themselves Britons and
officers have been guilty, are perfectly marvellous.
Almost every irreligious man, who has dwelt chiefly
among the votaries of one or the other of these false
religions, becomes more or less attached to it and
imbued with the native prejudices against the opposite
party, and in favour of his associates. At Delhi is a
mosque built by Colonel Skinner; and Englishmen, in
former days, under the influence of Hindu wives, have
been known to paint themselves and perform Pujah, or
worship at the river side like heathens.
:
What will you think when you hear of my taking a
lively interest in a cat-hunt? There is no knowing
what we may come to! Wild cats abound here, that is
to say, cats of the domestic breed, who have become
wild they are very large and fierce, and do much
mischief, and will even enter a house, tear open the
meat-safe and carry off the contents. One of them
came to get a guinea-fowl of Mrs. Janvier's for supper,
but the dogs heard it and gave chase. We were taking
our tea in front of the house, when my husband sud-
denly started off; away went also the Khidmatgar: the
little Ghúrka Náig on duty went after them, and I in
much amazement followed to see what was the matter.
262
NEL'S PERVERSITY.
The catamount was quickly slain, and nothing could
exceed the fury of the little dog, when his big friend
Bow-vow had killed his enemy. He sat down, put his
paws on it, barked at it with all his might, and then
began dragging it about the compound with unima-
ginable zcal. He will doubtless be a "great brave"
when he is grown up.
We had an escape last night for which I am most
thankful. Just as we turned down the road home-
wards, I saw the Sáís drop behind, brandishing his
jhárran (or duster) and shouting hoarsely, while C.,
urged on the mare at full speed. It was a loose horse,
whose master had got off to say his prayers, and who
found no difficulty in dragging the iron pin with which
his bridle was fastened out of the light sandy soil.
Our mare is a most vicious, spirited thing, though
docile in harness, and would have kicked and fought
with fury had the horse overtaken her. Nothing is
more dangerous than a loose horse in India. Finding
he was gaining on us, C. dashed into the court of the
hotel which we were just passing: the men shut one
leaf of the gate, and C. jumped out and kept the horse
off with his whip. He was secured, and we reached
home in safety.
My little dog is most perverse, and whenever there
is a Muhammadan here, he insists on lying down on
his feet, instead of coming as usual to me. But it is
curious to see how all our servants overlook their
Mussalmán prejudices in his favour. They pat him,
play with him, and even carry him. We never ask
them to do anything about either of the dogs, that
being the sweeper's business. I remark, too, that the
Muhammadans and Hindus are perfectly friendly with
each other, talk together, sit side by side, and help
each other to let off the fireworks; but Shiáhs and
Súnís generally appear unbounded in their antipathies,
though I believe less so among Hindustani Mussalmans
than among those of other nations.
When my husband related the attack on poor Dost
Muhammad to Hasan Khán, although the latter is full
SHIAHS AND SUNIS.
263
of gencrous feelings, as soon as he found the sufferer
was a Shiáh, he lost all his interest in the story, and
began to explain that Shiáhs were very bad people.
C. told him that they were just as good Múham-
madans as himself, for he had read the Kuran, which
Hasan Khán had not, and that there was not a word
in it from beginning to end about Shiáhs or Súnís, or
about the Khalifas. “Yes,” said Hasan Khán, “but
they do not believe in the Char-i-Yar," or four friends.
These are Abubekir Sadiq, or the Just, Omar, Usman,
and Ali, and the word Cháriyár is quite a war-cry
among the Afgháns. "But," said my husband, "there
is nothing about that in the Kuran; it is enough if a
man acknowledges that there is but one God, and that
Muhammad is his prophet. Do you not acknowledge
this?" he asked Dost Muhammad. "Of course I do,"
cricd the poor man, and repeated the Muhammadan
Confession of Faith. "Ah! but they don't acknow-
ledge the four books," rejoined Hasan Khán. "Yes,
I do," shouted the other; "there is the Kurán, and
the Tourat and the Injil (the Old and New Testa-
ments), and the Psalms of David." Hasan Khán was
so counfounded at this proof of orthodoxy, that not
knowing what to say, he turned to C. and asked him
if he acknowledged Muhammad as a prophet.
I do not," he answered; "one part of your religion is
true, that there is no God but one, but one part of it
is a lie that Muhammad is his prophet." Hasan
Khán's cyc flashed fire, but C. added: "I will talk to
you about this another time; now, we are speaking of
Shiáhs and Súnís; and I tell you there is no diffe-
rence between them: but you are all imposed upon by
your Mullahıs, who tell you whatever falschoods they
choose." This seemed to make some impression on
Hasan Khán, who, like all Afgháns, has a horror of
being thought priest-ridden; and my husband showed
him that the Mullahs in Afghánistan cannot read the
Kurán, as it is written in Arabic, which they do not
understand, and they have no translation.
(C
No,
The assailants of Dost Múhammad have been fined
2C4 FASTING AN AFGHAN NOBLE IN DISTRESS.
(C
and bound over to keep the peace, which pledge they
performed by attacking him on his way home. My
husband sent his two orderlies to escort him, and they
found that his chemies had beaten his wife, and broken
all his cooking vessels. Mr. D. the Assistant Magis-
trate, has therefore placed an armed man to watch
over him. This business has caused a great commotion
in the city, and Hubíq Khán, a poor Afghán whom
we have often assisted, told any husband he had just
been defending his character, for the people in Bazar
said he was a Shiah; "but I told them," added he,
you were not anything half so wicked.”
C. was
roused at this, and asked, "Do you think if I believed
in Muhammad, I would remain as I am?" "No,"
said Hubíq, "I do not think you would." C. told
him that as there is but one God, so there was but one
true religion, and that he believed to be the Christian
faith, and he considered Muhammad an impostor."
The man grew quite pale with anger at this. C.
repeated what he had said to Ilasan Khán, that the
disputes between Shiáhs and Súnís were founded on
the falsehoods of their Mullahs, and not at all on the
Kurán. He added, "half of you do not know any-
thing about your own religion ?" and turning to one of
our scrvants, several of whom had drawn near, he
asked, "Who are the Char-i-Yar?" "Prophets,"
answered Vazira rapidly, whereupon even IIubiq burst
out laughing.
"How
Hasan Khán came to see us a few days after, and
said, "The Ramazan will begin in a few days, but
how can a man fast in such hot weather?" he ex-
claimed, with a kind of peevishness. I had just been-
prescribing for him; so my husband suggested that
he was not well, and therefore need not fast.
can I say I am not well when I come here, talk and
laugh!" IIe finally announced his intention of going
into the jungle to shoot and hunt, because when a man
is on a journey or hunting, he is exempted from fasting
if he make up for it in other ways. C. told him that
Christians fasted differently; and on his inquiring our
THE GOSPEL OF JOHN-THE ANAKIM.
265
doctrine on this point, made the Babu read him what
our Lord says of fasting, which he pronounced very
good. An Afghán of high rank whom we often see,
came here the other evening in the greatest distress,
having sold even his sword, he said, to satisfy his
creditors. Teimur Shahzadeh owes him a small sum,
which he will not pay, and he was at his wit's end for
fifty rupees. We could hardly do less than offer it to
him. He said he knew of our debts, and nothing but
dire necessity drove him to come; "but," said he,
"who can I go to !" He begged C. not to give him the
money before the servants, so the matter was artfully
managed, and he departed with a lightened heart.
That gentlemanly old man, Sirfraz Khán, came to
consult C. about his affairs, he too being wretchedly
poor. C. told him he had little hopes of serving him,
but that if ever it were in his power, he would gladly
do so; first, because he had a great respect for him;
and secondly, because his brother Aminullah had or-
dered him (C. himself) to be blown from the mouth
of a gun, and we were commanded by our law to return
good for evil. Sirfraz Khán said he believed he was
sincere in what he said.
Abdulrahmán Khán (the slave of the Most Merciful),
of whom I told you as such an intelligent man, and to
whom C. related the history of Joseph, asked in conse-
quence for a Bible. C. promised him one that is
coming from Calcutta. He then asked for a New
Testament in the meantime, "for," said he, "I have
heard that the Gospel of John may be depended on."
You know that although Muhammadans acknowledge
our Scriptures, they assert that they have been cor-
rupted. Of course a copy was joyfully given him.
My husband told Abdulrahím, Hasan Khán's pesh-
khidmat, that his master's child was so fine a boy, that
he was convinced one of his ancestors must have been
a son of Anak who had settled in Afghánistan, adding,
"You know about the Anakim." "Oh yes," he
answered, "they were a people sixty yards high." In
spite of the perverted version of Scripture narratives
VOL. I.
N
266
ILLNESS.
which they have got hold of, they always defer to C.'s
account of any of these things as the proper one, and
stand corrected by him. Rahím, who has had fever, was
doubtful if he might take medicine to-day, according
to my directions, on account of the fast. C. told him
he certainly might, as he was ill, and appealed to my
Munshi if that were not the doctrine of the Kurán.
The Munshi said, hesitatingly, "Yes, if he were very
ill," whereupon C. expounded to them that a little
illness was like a little lion; if you let it grow, it
becomes too strong for you, and eats you up.
It was
also like a man finding a small hole in a dyke, and
neglecting to stop it, because it was so small: he goes
to sleep, and the next morning the waters have over-
thrown the dam, and flooded the country. By which
illustrations they appeared quite convinced; and Rahím
departed, thanking us much, and professing himself our
slave.
i
267
CHAPTER VIII.
The Regiment Quarrels and is Punished-Conversion by the Sword-
Baptist of a Mussalman Rahim-Singing Bird-Forbidden Marriages
among Mussalmans-Fasting-Churning-Doctrine of Imputation—
Mussalman Legends-Alta Muhammad on Fasting-Regimental Bazar
-Tacts-Official Delays-First Death in the Regiment-Munshi and
Monasteries "Son of Fowl"-Influence of Native Women-Bralıman
on Popery-Children of a Missionary-The Piszadeh ConvertThe
Arabic Character disliked-A Father's Picture-" The Great Day of
Atonement"-One Hour's Housekeeping-Native Mode of Sleeping
-Officers and Non-commissioned Officers on Promotion-English
Doctrine of the Sabbath-Temperance for Ladies-Description of the
Old and New World-Superiority of Hindu Religion-Condition of
Widows Indian Mussalmans Purgatory- Afghan Idea of the
Heavens-Falling Stars-Deficiencies at Sobraon-State of Magazines
-A Jezailchi-Sympathy-Salubrity of Different Stations-Want of
Discipline-Eclipse of Moon-Regimental Festival-New World-
Kindness of Prince Teimur-Respect for Catechists-Sufferings of
Soldiers' Wives-Sympathy of Afghans-Injudicious Commandant-
Promotion of Havildar Major-"The Labourers in my Vineyard
Poor Bhisti―Orphan School-Dogs-Tinkling Feet-Evil Example of
Officers.
ON Thursday evening, the 12th August, just as we
were going to bed, all the Afgháns of the regiment
rushed over in a body, having had a fight with the
Sikhs, bringing with them a mullah whose beard had
been pulled by the latter. C. forthwith turned them
out of the compound, refusing to hear any particulars;
and bade them go and lie down, without saying a word,
good or bad, to any one. He also warned them that if
there were any more quarrels, he would strike all the
Afgháns off the strength of the regiment.
N 2
268
THE REGIMENT QUARRELS, AND IS PUNISHED.
My husband being determined to quell this spirit
of discord, took his measures accordingly. The next
morning, he put his plan into execution. The native
officers were much to blame, as they should have pre-
vented anything like a fight. After the regiment had
been drilled for two hours (from 4 to 6), as usual,
instead of dismissing them, he sent for the Granthi, or
Sikh priest, to accompany the men; gave the word to
march, put himself at their head, and led them, in the
first instance, through two pools of water, past our
house, where they evidently thought they were to stop;
past the turning into the city, through which they pro-
bably flattered themselves they were to return; through
a great piece of water which, as they were not suffered
to break line, reached midway above the knee of many
of them, and wherein one of the subadars, a very fat,
clever man, stuck in the mud, to his extreme disgust,
and was obliged to be pulled out by two Sepáhis; to a
pillar on the Umballa-road, full five miles from their
lines when within a quarter of a mile from this pillar,
he ordered the bugler to sound "double quick,” and
thus made them "charge" up to it; from thence he
brought them back, leading them over the sandy,
broken, rough ground at the back of our house. They
did not reach the lines until 9 o'clock, thoroughly
knocked up; so that, as the acting Havildar-Major con-
fessed, each man drank a whole jarful of water. The
Granthi was in a pitiful plight, from excessive heat,
and the consciousness that the men were laughing at
him. The old Senior Subadar's red coat had become
black, and never was there such an expression of dis-
gust and weariness as on the face of his fat comrade.
At noon there was drill for stragglers; at 1 o'clock a
roll-call; another at 3; drill for the whole regiment.
from half-past 4 to sunset; a roll-call at 9, and another
at midnight; and the penalty for non-appearance at
any of these, instant dismissal from the regiment. C.
issued an order to be read at ten successive roll-calls,
in which he told them that the State required 800
soldiers, and not 800 Mullahs, Pandits, or Granthis;
INTERCESSION.
269
and that any one who should in any way insult or
attack another on account of his religion, be he Chris-
tian, Muhammadan, Hindu, or Sikh, was guilty of a
high military offence; and that any more such occur-
rences as disgraced the regiment last night should be
visited with severe punishment; ending by forbidding
all Faqírs or religious mendicants of any description to
come within the lines. He also told the Sikh Priest
that if any more quarrels occurred, he would be instantly
dismissed.
This morning, Saturday 14th, the men were in a
great fright lest they should be put through a similar
course of discipline to that of yesterday. After drill
the regiment was drawn up in about sixteen small sec-
tions, to each of which the order was read in Urdu and
Gúrmúkhi, and explained by the Munshi and Granthi.
Eleven men, absent from roll-call yesterday, were inex-
orably dismissed, and as C. rode along the ranks he
made divers pithy speeches on the iniquity of Faqirs in
stirring up strife, describing them as men who said,.
"For the sake of God, I eat other men's bread; for
the sake of God, I am filthy and unclean; for the sake
of God, I am an unspeakable rogue;' only let me catch
one in my lines," added he, "and he shall be beaten-
so that it shall be terrible." On coming home he told
me this, and grieved for the eleven discarded men, who of
course lose their livelihood by being discharged. I
suggested that Mr. Bean might intercede for them, and
then he could safely pardon them; and accordingly I
wrote to Mrs. Bean, asking her to persuade her husband
to intercede for the men; an intercession with which
(although quite a Roman Catholic one in its circumam-
bulatory course) the Commandant was only too happy
to comply. So now I hope they will all be good
boys.
My husband having accused the Mussalmans of con-
verting by force, my Munshi denied this, and said it
was "only when people would not listen to reason." C.
had his sword in his hand, and making a lunge with it
said, "And then they converted them in this way;"
1
270
THE AFGHANS.
the Havildar Major laughed, and added, "Half my caste
(the Rajput) are Múhammadans and half Hindus. How
came it that any left the faith of their forefathers?
Why, they were made Múhammadans by the sword."
And the Munshi was confounded. The regimental
Munshi, who is a Kashmirí Hindu, said this morning
that the Mussalmans were always boasting of their
religion, but that he knew better. My husband said he
had a book which he had once lent to two Jews; it was a
comparison between Christianity and Muhammadanism,
and it enabled them entirely to defeat the Muslim."
"A good book to read," said the Munshi eagerly. "I
will lend it you," returned C., "and you will be able to
confute all the Mussalmans in Loodiana.” So I must
go and find the Mizan ul Haq for him.
August 18th, 1848.-We have been very much inter-
ested in a case of, one cannot but hope, real conversion.
Golak Nâth, the native minister in Jellander, has
written to the mission here to say, that a Pir zádeh
(son of a saint), the chief man of a village not far from
Jellander, who, five months ago, when Golak first went,
was so opposed to Christianity that he would not even
take a tract, has now declared himself a Christian. He
asked the brethren and their wives to go and dine with
him and his family; and, though advised not to do so
for fear they should be assailed by the Muhammadan
population, who are greatly excited at the conversion of a
man so much esteemed, they went, and nothing happened
to them. Azim Khán, the inquirer, has now asked for
baptism. May he be baptized of the Spirit, and be
an instrument of turning many to righteousness, so
that the knowledge of the Lord may speedily cover this
country!
The Afgháns appear one of the finest races on earth,
both physically and mentally. They are very manly,
full of intelligence, talent, and courage, and with strong
feelings and extraordinary energy. Their very vices,
like gigantic weeds, show the richness and vigour of the
soil which produces them. What a people they would
be did they but know the Truth! Hasan Khán has
THE ROSARY—A LARK.
271
been very ill, and finding he had taken some horrid
Bazár medicine, all I could do for him yesterday morning
was to send him some arrowroot, which he ate in spite
of the fast, and afterwards, thanks to homœopathy, he
became much better. We went to see him last evening,
and found that he and his handsome Peshkhidmat
Rahím had had a grand quarrel and parted.
With his usual impatience he is not satisfied with
knowing that the Governor-General is negotiating in
order that his family may be allowed to join him; but
he must needs despatch Rahím to Kabul, at the risk of
his life, to see why they have not arrived. The Pesh-
khidmat naturally enough refused to go, and thence the
quarrel. Hasan Khán, in spite of his weakness, waxed
quite strong with indignation, and abused all Kabulies
and Afgháns, as if he himself were not one of them.
This morning, however, Rahím came to tell us that
Sirfraz Khán had made it up between him and his
master; but Hasan Khán having assured him that C.
was exceedingly angry with him, he had come to clear
himself, for that he being (literally) "a seizer of his
skirt," i. e., one who sought his protection (he touched
my husband's thigh with both hands as he spoke), could
not bear that he should think ill of him. C. explained
that it was an exaggeration to say he had been very
angry with him; he had merely said, "it is not good."
Like a devout Mussalman, during the Ramazan, Rahím
carried his beads in his hand. The rosary has ninety-
nine beads, one for each of the names of the Most
High; but he confessed he could not say them by
heart, though he could if they were written.
This morning C. and I were listening to a beautiful
little lark of our Khidmatgar's, which sings delightfully.
We asked Baedullah if such a bird could be bought
here'. Baedullah squeezed up his two fingers and
thumb, saying, "Why, you would not give five rupees
for a bird so big?" with an air which expressed, "You
never could be so demented.” Besides," added he,
"it only speaks its own speech," meaning that it could
not talk like a parrot or maina; but it imitates the
66
272
MUSSALMAN LAW OF MARRIAGE.
notes of all birds, and some of its little trills are
lovely. It goes on singing quite late in the evening.
Baedullah will call our great mastiff, whom I have
named Bow-wow, "Pow," and told us this morning that
"Pow was an eminent swimmer.' ""
The Munshí, in speaking of marriage, informed us
that marriage with an aunt, by either the father or
mother's side, is wholly unlawful among Múhamma-
dans.
A man may marry his wife's sister provided the first
be dead. The Ramazan should be kept by all men
and women above the age of twelve or fourteen; even
women who are nursing should fast, that is as my
Munshi expressed it "all good women." None of our
servants appear to do so. They ought to abstain from
swallowing anything whatever, even their saliva, from
early dawn, i. e., 3 A.M. to sunset; but Baedullah was
puffing away at his pipe long after sunrise, and a young
horsekeeper who goes out with us in the evening runs
in front of the buggy with surprising vigour, for one
who is supposed to have fasted all day. Owing to the
Muhammadan year being shorter than the astronomical
one, some of their months having thirty, and others
only twenty-nine days, the beginning of the year, and
consequently the Ramazan, falls at different seasons,
and of course the fast is much easier to bear in winter
than in the hot season. It was the Ramazan when C.
was besieged in the Kila i Nishan Khan at Kabúl, and
he took advantage of the enemy being engrossed with
eating and drinking during the night to cut his way
through them. The city is now a most lively scene
just after sunset, every one being engaged either in
cooking or eating, and whiffs of roasted meat and spices
assail one on all sides.
Yesterday morning I saw my own churn for the first
time: a wooden thing, something like a horse-shoe, is
placed with the curved part inside the mouth of an
earthen pitcher, and the two ends tied to a little tree, a
large bamboo is placed upright in the milk and within
the horseshoe, and supported at the top by a string
DEATH OF INFANTS.
273
fastened to the tree. It is turned by a leather-strap
passing round it, one end of which the churner, who
sits on the ground, holds in each hand. We have
excellent butter made, as the natives always do, from
the milk.
August 19th.-Abdulrahmán Khán told us this even-
ing that his sister had lately lost a little girl of nine
months old. He said that children of that age being
sinless, present themselves before God, and their inno-
cence is reckoned to the account of their parents. It is
curious to see that the doctrine of imputed righteous-
ness, to which so many unbelievers in Christian lands
object on the score of injustice, should be so prevalent
all over the world in an erroneous form. That and
the corresponding belief in imputed sin, are deeply
rooted both in the Muhammadan and Hindú systems.
Does not this show that man naturally feels the neces-
sity and the justice of the doctrine of imputation both
of sin and righteousness, and that consequently cavils
are suggested by Satan from his hatred to the truth?
He never objects to the doctrine when a false appli-
cation is made of it, because he knows well enough
that a soul will never be saved by the vicarious suffer-
ing of an animal or even of a Monk; and that the
merits of Romish Saints and Muhammadan infants are
alike inefficacious; but when men are called upon to
trust to our Great Substitute who bears our sins and
gives us His Righteousness, then Apollyon storms and
rages, and finds fault with the principle itself as unjust,
unnatural, and quite incomprehensible. There is a sad
perversion of many Gospel truths in Muhammadanism.
Abdulrahmán said the other evening that the Messiah.
would come again at the end of the world, making
use of the Kaiba, or black stone of Mekka, as a ladder
to alight upon the Earth, and that then he would
convert all nations to Múhammadanism, and give up
the government of the world to that now wretched
Deceiver !
1
Atta Muhammad being here, asked my husband if
he fasted? He told him that Christians were left to
N 3
274
PAYING THE REGIMENT.
their own discretion in this matter; that he himself
being far from strong, never fasted, for if he did his
thoughts would be fixed on food and drink instead of
on the things of God. "Ah!" said our stout friend,
"that is the case with me. All day long I think to
myself, could I but have a drink of water-could I
but eat a kawáb !—could I but have a chillam! (pipe)."
As for Hasan Khán he took a pipe here yesterday,
and said "he would make it up in the cold weather.'
The convert at Jallander of whom I told you, was
baptized on Sunday, August 22nd, with his infant
child.
""
The Quarter-Master Sergeant and Babu do all the
Adjutant's work. They take the accounts of the regi-
ment, make out indents or applications for arms, tents,
&c., &c., pay abstracts, i. e. bills for the monthly pay,
and copy all the official correspondence. When the
Regimental Bazár was first established, large advances
were made by C. to enable the shopkeepers to lay in
stores for the regiment. He waited until the men had
eaten up more than the advances, and then settled the
accounts of the Baniahs (shopkeepers), who were thus
entirely in his power. They had not only made out
false accounts, but endeavoured to bribe the Babu to
pass them, thinking that the Sahib would never look
into the bills himself. The Babu brought the money
to his master, examined all the accounts carefully, and
found numbers of charges made for men of straw who
had no existence; and relying on the ignorance of the
recruits, especially the Sikhs, who did not know whether
they had eaten two annas or six annas worth of meal
a day, but only knew that they had had enough,
endeavoured to cheat them also by charging them for
immense quantities of food. C. had warned the Baniahs
to give credit to no Sepáhi beyond two annas a day,
telling them that he would only be responsible for that
amount. He therefore struck off all the extra charges,
turned off the man who had established the Bazár,
and who had incited the Baniahs to offer the bribe,
and told the remaining ones, that if they could not keep
A COMMANDANT'S LETTER.
275
up their shops without advances (which they declared
was impossible) that they might depart. Almost all of
them have, however, stayed. My husband gets advances
of 5,000 to 10,000 rupees at a time from the treasury.
This money I keep in a trunk, and the Havildar-
Major comes daily for 125 rupees, for the subsistence
of the men. By-the-by, hutting-money, i. e., an allow-
ance to enable the men to build huts for themselves,
has just been granted; or rather, the news of its being
granted has just come, though the order itself is dated
June 7th. Thus the regiment has been kept in tents
during the whole of the hot weather and rains, chiefly
owing to the utter confusion with which everything is
managed.
Part of the Frontier Brigade is under Colonel Law-
rence at Lahore; part of it under Major Makeson.
This regiment and the 3rd, which is at Amballa, are
under Major Mackeson; yet both get their pay from
Lahore, though there is a Paymaster in Amballa itself.
Perhaps the reason of this may be that these regi-
ments are paid from money levied from the protected
Sikh States, instead of the contingent which they were
formerly bound to furnish; but surely the Government
must have heard of such things as bills and drafts. All
the
pay abstracts of all regiments have to be sanctioned
by the Auditor-General in Calcutta; as he and his
subordinates have far more than they can do, the whole
business of revising the bills falls on native clerks, who
make innumerable retrenchments, perhaps more often
wrongly than rightly; while the Auditor-General, who,
as you may suppose, is the bête noire of all military
men, can hardly manage to sign the innumerable
papers presented to him. The bills are then sent back,
with all the retrenchments marked in red ink, and the
rest sanctioned. A correspondence generally ensues:
the officer giving his authority for the charge objected
to. Nothing goes direct; but every letter through the
immediate superior of the writer; so that the delays.
are frightful.
I will give you some extracts from the letters of an
276
OFFICIAL DELAYS.
officer who is raising another of the Sikh regiments:-
"June 7th.—As usual, can get no definite answer from
Government about anything, and lucky to get one of
any sort in three months at earliest. How get you on
with the Auditor-General? Of about 14,000 rupees.
advances I have had from the Treasury, 53r. la. 11p.
is the sum total yet credited to me by passed bills.
Pleasant that; and I meaning to walk off in October."
My husband drew nearly 100,000 rupees on his own
responsibility, for the use of the regiment, before his
bills were passed. . "Have you contrived yet to
ascertain whether drummers are drummers or buglers?
whether any tents will be allowed us or not, or Khá-
lasís to take care of them? I can ascertain nothing,
although I put my questions in tolerably plain terms;
and, under all this provocation, as impertinently in
style as may well be."
((
July.-Patience and impatience, civility and inci-
vility, argument and persuasion, everything have I tried,
and all to no purpose. The only reply I can get out of
them is an imperturbable silence.' (The writer, an
excellent officer, is an Irishman.) "My arms and my
accoutrements I have not received; my indent was
kept two full months in Calcutta, in order to allow of
the rain commencing, and the roads becoming impas-
sable for carts; so that I shall probably not see them
for the next two months, or five months after sending
my indent. And they expect the regiment to be rapidly
complete; and Mackeson-the innocent individual—
writes to know if I am prepared to send out detach-
ments, treasure escorts, &c. . . . The Khalais war still
goes on, in the shape of furious letters on my part, and
deathlike silence on others-satisfactory sort of thing,
especially as I am paying the establishment myself all
this time." Speaking of his authority as joint magis-
trate, he adds: "I have taken no notice whatever of
their commission, or diploma, or whatever they call it.
When a fellow is caught thieving, I give him a licking
in front of the regiment, and kick him out without
any form. This thieving is the only civil offence they
DEATH IN THE REGIMENT.
277
commit; and for military ones, extra drill, guard, and
reduction to the ranks, have sufficed without any court-
martial."
There seem to be hardly any beggars here, except a
few religious mendicants, one of whom rides his horse
as he asks alms. Some aged and blind people come to
the house every Monday, and one now and then during
the week; but that is all.
August 31st. The first death that has yet occurred
in the regiment took place yesterday. When a Sepáhi
dies, the men of his own caste in the regiment bury
him; and this one was burnt early this morning by the
river-side. As he left very little to send to his family
besides a brass pot and a sheet, we have just paid the
expenses of his funeral, amounting to 3 rupees. It
fills one with a feeling of indescribable pain to think of
the dread realities on which this poor idolator has now
opened his eyes. What an awful revelation of truth
must that be which takes place (for the first time) on
the other side of death! How this should make us
pray with increasing fervour that the kingdom of Christ
may soon come with power over all nations, and that
the glory of the Lord may cover the earth as the waters
cover the sea!
My Munshí was telling me this morning about the
Mussalman Sabbath. No work ought to be done on
that day; but the poor people continue their labours as
usual, except that they often attend the public prayers,
which begin about one o'clock, and generally last two
hours.
After prayers, they have a sermon, and some people
then go to the Bazár, and buy and sell as usual; but
the Munshí said, "that was not very right." I told
him about our Sabbath. He happened to ask me what
a monastery was. I explained to him about monks and
nuns; taking care to assure him that we had none, only
Roman Catholics had; for he understands the dis-
tinction between the two faiths very well, and told me
the other day that the Shías were like Roman Catholics,
which I thought a most convincing proof that he had
278
EVIL EXAMPLE OF EUROPEANS.
formed a very bad opinion of the latter, whom he con-
siders as
"But parast," or idolators. He then asked,
very simply, "Nun-wife of monk?"
Loodiana, September 8th, 1847.-The Múnshi often
diverts me. The Khansaman came with a very grave
face to announce the death of a chicken. I did not
hear what he said, so the Múnshi interpreted in a solemn
tone, "Son of fowl-dead !”
He also tells me many things about the customs of
this country. He gives a frightful account of the state
of morals, and when I told him that marriage was for
life among us, he answered warmly that that was a very
good custom. You may imagine the degraded condition
of the people here, when I tell you that we constantly
pass women in the open street bare down to the hips,
little children have generally no clothing at all, and
many of the men the smallest possible quantity. They
do not seem to have the least sense of decency. We
daily see fresh proofs that the whole world lieth in
wickedness.
The conduct of the Europeans, in many instances, is
such as to make the natives despise and abhor them;
for although worse themselves, yet they expect those
above them to be better than they; and they know full
well that our law requires a life of purity and holiness.
Besides which, the usual haughty and domineering
manners of the English makes them as unpopular here
as on the continent of Europe, and as they are almost
all in stations of some influence or authority in this
country, evil conduct on their part is the cause of
injustice and suffering to those beneath them. When
a man in office is under the power of a native woman,
she invariably takes bribes, and he gets the credit of
doing so; for she of course gives out that the Sahib
shares in her extortions. Thus, whether the wretched.
man does or not, he loses his character for common
honesty. Now, putting the principles of morality out
of the question, it is evident that an officer who thus
places himself into the hands of a Heathen woman, is
wholly unfit for any situation of authority.
ROMANISM AND HINDUISM.
279
The natives universally remark that the Sahib-lóg do
not live according to their book, and therefore despise
their characters, though they fear their power. And
the evil example of the Europeans has doubtless been
one great reason why the Gospel has not made greater
progress in India.
"You
Some time ago I read a very clever paper by a
heathen Brahman, showing why he would not embrace
Popery. His argument was, that he, as a Brahman,
professed all that Popery offered; that they were too
much alike to make it worth while to change.
have your images," he said, "and we have ours; you
have Monks, and we have Suniasis; you have the
Virgin and the Saints, we have Kali and innumerable
Deities; you have rosaries and holy water, and so have
we; and thus he went on, making a minute parallel
between the two. Now I am sure that a similar pre-
judice is created against pure Christianity, when Mus-
salman and Hindus see that the lives of professed
Christians are no better, and sometimes more openly
scandalous than their own. It is impossible to overrate
the importance of the influence of the most insignificant
creature, cither for good or evil.
He
We took tea with Mr. Porter the other evening: he
told us about Azim, a new convert at Jalander.
belongs to a family of Pir zadehs (or sons of a Saint),
who live in an inclosure, out of which none of their
women are ever permitted to go, even veiled, and if
they do go out, they may never return. This is the
reason he has not brought his wife from behind the
Pardah, because he has nowhere to take her to, and if
she once left the Compound, she could not re-enter it.
He has some property, which he holds jointly with the
rest of the family, and he is now trying to get his share
separated from theirs. Mr. Porter thinks him a truly
converted man. Azim says that there is another man
in Jalander who is ready to become a Christian, but
being very poor, he would require support.
Mr. Porter said, that the Convert's knowledge of all
Christian doctrine is quite wonderful, considering the
280
THE NEW CONVERT.
short time which has elapsed since he first heard or
read the Gospel. He is a well-educated man; another
proof that nothing is too hard for the Lord, for the dif-
ference in bigotry between the learned and unlearned
Mussalman is very marked.
The feeling of the former regarding the unlearned of
their own creed, seems to be exactly that of the Jewish
Scribes: "This people who know not the law are
cursed;" and if we did not remember the sovereignty
of Divine Grace, we should be inclined to pronounce the
conversion of a Mullah or Molevi (a priest or scribe)
impossible. It is hard for a man to acknowledge with
Paul, that all his learning is loss in comparison to the
knowledge of Christ.
By-the-by, we have been endeavouring to get the
Bible Society in Calcutta to print Bibles, so that they
will be read. Some time ago we sent to Calcutta for a
Persian Bible, for the purpose of presenting it to the
Shahzadeh Shahpúr. It arrived beautifully bound;
but all the Old Testament is in the Arabic instead of
the Persian character, and, consequently, not one Mú-
hammadan in twenty, either here or in Afghánistan,
either can or will read it. The Arabic appears plainer
to us; it is much stiffer and straighter, while the Per-
sian is more flowing, like a written hand; but still
many cannot, and more will not, read the former.
Who would read a volume printed in italics? In vain
the Missionaries have represented this; the Bible
Society will not listen to them, for the Arabic is
cheaper, and all the learned men down in Calcutta
approve of it.
Arabic is the study on which an Eastern scholar
especially prides himself, just as a European does on
Greek; and European Orientalists are infected with
the same preference: but not only are the people in
Calcutta as profoundly ignorant of India in general as
a Cockney, who has never left the sound of Bow bells,
is of Ben Lomond, and more so, for the Cockney might
read about Scotland: but what can a man read about
Upper India? the Cockney could get Scotch news-
IDOLATRY.
281
papers, but what can be found equivalent to these in
Calcutta-but all the learned Molevis whom they con-
sult, think of nothing but displaying their learning, and
are wholly opposed to the Gospel. Now are they, or
are the comparatively unlearned Missionaries, the best
judges of which will be most acceptable, and most read.
Would you consult Hannah More or Dr. Porson anent
tracts for the poor or cheap Testaments?
My husband wrote vehemently to Dr. Duff, and told
him that by this false economy rupees are saved and
souls lost, so that I trust he may be able to influence
the Bible Society to a better course.
My curiosity was aroused by a very animated dialogue
between C. and our Khansaman at dinner time. It
appeared that Saiad Khán, the Khansaman, although a
Mussalman, had lent a large bamboo fan of mine to
some of the men of the regiment to brush away the
flies from an abominable idol of theirs. C. reproached
him, and said, though he would do anything for the
comfort of the men themselves, he would in nowise
countenance or help them in dishonouring God. He
then scrawled a hideous face on a sheet of paper, and
said, "I know very well that Idolators say they do not
worship the image itself, but God through or by means
of the image; but suppose your son were to make a
hideous picture like this, and then take it to the Bazár,
and tell every one that it was your likeness, and then
make salám and pay respect to it, what would you do?
Would you be pleased?" "I would make him eat
blows," returned Saiad Khán very decidedly. "Well
then," my husband answered, "do you not think it
must be most offensive to God to have a vile image
made by man worshipped as his likeness?" The two
Mussalmans heartily agreed, and the old Hindú bearer,
who was pulling the Phankah, broke in by vehemently
declaring that idols were nothing but vanity and
wickedness. This confirms what the Missionaries tell
us, that both Heathens and Muhammadans will con-
stantly grant many Scripture truths, without, however,
282
TRANSLATION OF GERMAN WORK.
making the slightest change in their practice. Just as
we ourselves too often do.
Dr. Wilson, of Bombay, records that a large body
of Hindús whom he addressed on the folly and sin
of Idolatry, all, with one exception, assented to every
statement he made. He adds, "I could not but regard
them as the willing subjects of the Enemy of Souls."
Yesterday I sent off half of a translation I have been
engaged in for some time past. It is of a German book
called "Der Grosse Versöhnungs Tag," lent to me by
Mrs. Rudolph, and consists of a Meditation and Prayer
for each of the four-and-twenty hours of the last day
of our Redeemer's Pilgrimage on Earth. It is very
simple and affecting, and I found it so profitable thus
to dwell on each portion of our Adorable Saviour's
sufferings for our sake, that I thought a translation of
it might be useful to many at home. And if it be
instrumental in leading any to see more of that love of
Christ which passeth knowledge, what a cause of thank-
fulness it will be, and the chain of events which caused
its publication will be a source of praise.
It was
written and published in Germany about 100 years ago,
but was quite out of print and unknown, when a copy
was found at Helenendorf, a colony on the other side
of the Caucacus, in the hands of a pious old Christian
woman from Würtemberg. Nothing could have in-
duced her to give up this precious book but the hope
of its being useful to others. It was brought to Ger-
many by a young Missionary, and has passed through
two editions at Basle. Now, in this remote corner of
the East, it falls into my hands to be translated. May
God give the increase!
I find drawing or painting almost too great an exer-
tion in this very hot weather, so that I have sketched
very little.
Now that I have had some experience in house-
keeping, both here and at home, I must say that I
consider the excuse which ladies so commonly make for
not doing fifty things that they are conscious they
HASAN KHAN'S GALLANTRY.
283
might do-viz. that they have so large an establish-
ment to manage-quite futile. A large establishment
need take no more time than a small one, and I am
sure that a lady may look into everything herself, and
keep her house in excellent order by devoting an hour
a day to it; so from henceforth I enter a protest against
all excuses on the score of housekeeping. I must tell
you of an act of gallantry in Hasan Khán which quite
astonished me. He was leading me by the hand across
the court just as you would a child, when he suddenly
fell down on one knee to tie my shoe-string which had
become loose. I, however, preferred doing it myself,
as the task would have puzzled him. Coming home
the other night we saw six or eight Kúlis lying flat on
their backs in the road with their heads close to our
wheels, fanning themselves to sleep! Almost the whole.
population sleep out of doors. They just draw in a foot
which is sticking out beyond their charpaís as our buggy
passes. These light charpaís, i. e. bedsteads, which are
merely a frame on which a mat of cord or tape is
stretched, show one how easily the paralytic could "take
up his bed and walk." The houses are very miserable
-I mean those of the poor people-being only a kind
of stall or booth open to the street, and containing no
furniture whatever. The walls are of mud. The ovens
are sunk in the ground like wells, are first well heated,
the fire is then cleared out, and the bread, which is not
unlike bannock, pasted round the inside of the oven.
It is then shut up and they are baked. Of an evening
the streets are full of Kawáb sellers, each fanning his
fire and surrounded by hungry purchasers. Every now
and then the clink of brass-drinking vessels tells of the
approach of a Muhammadan water-seller with his goat-
skin of water at his back. At sunset there are rows of
Mussalmans at their devotions in front of the little mud
mosques, while a loud bell announces the idolatrous
rites of the Hindús. A native officer called the other
day in full uniform, followed by a Sepahi. With many
saláms the officer presented the hilt of his sword and
some rupees, first to my husband, and then to me.
He
284
PROMOTION-CAPTAIN C.
touched them, and the Sepahi offered two rupees in like
manner. They came to pay their respects on promotion,
the Sepáhi having been made Naig, and the Jemadár
Subádar. The latter is a meritorious old soldier to
whom C. is now making up for former frowns of for-
tune. The grace and self-possession with which natives
acquit themselves on occasions of this kind are remark-
able. Nothing could be more perfect than the manners
of the Subádar.
Monday, September 13th. We have been very
anxious about Captain C., whom I have mentioned to
you as almost our only Christian acquaintance out of
the Mission Compound. He is a young man, but ill-
health has made him stoop and look older than he is;
very shy, so that at first I thought him most unin-
teresting, for he said scarcely a word, but twiddled his
spoon in his tea, only listening attentively to all that
was going on. We now hail his visits with joy, for he
is a Christian of remarkable simplicity, humility, and
spirituality of mind, always ready to speak of that which
is evidently uppermost in his thoughts, Christ and his
Gospel. He is an insatiable reader, and yet so modest
that one might fancy he knew nothing, asking the
opinion of others with a meekness and desire to learn
that is quite touching. He labours much among the
soldiers, but with little visible success, and lives very
retired, though he seems most thoroughly to enjoy the
society of real friends.
">
Do you know I have been astonished to find lately
the extent of the difference between Scotland and
England on the subject of the Sabbath! The "Times'
and many other organs of public opinion, and many
people whom we have met, state the English doctrine
to be much lower than the Scotch-far more so than I
knew of. I thought the difference was chiefly in their
practice, but one finds even clergymen holding that the
Christian Sabbath is not expressly commanded, or to be
strictly observed, as it was under the old law. But this
is a digression from Captain C.
You may easily imagine how, especially where friends
+
WINE AND BEER.
285
and Christians are so scarce, one becomes knit to such
a character. For the last week he has been very ill
from exposure to the sun. He was nearly well when
he went to a court-martial, a piece of imprudence,
from which he is suffering greatly. It appears like low
typhus, with congestion of the brain. C. visits him
morning and evening. We trust he is improving a little.
By-the-by, dear L. attacked me in her last letter for
what I said about ladies taking took much wine. But
I am more and more convinced of the sad fact, and I
no longer wonder that most people have bad health in
India when, in addition to exposure, often unavoidable,
to the sun, they eat and drink even more than in
Europe. Meat twice and even three times a day, wine,
beer, and porter, are enough to kill any one in a climate
like this. Several people have assured me, that in the
hot weather I should find it absolutely necessary to
drink beer or porter, because I am delicate. I am quite
convinced I should have been laid up with fever had I
touched either, and I rejoice to say numbers in India
are beginning to find out, that abstemiousness is the
best way, both to husband and to increase strength.
As to the question of total abstinence, I am greatly in
its favour; first, because it is a Christian's duty not to
put a stumbling-block or occasion to fall in our brother's
way, and the force of example does wonders—here it is
essential to health, and at home the example is still
more needed, on account of the lower classes; secondly,
a pledge keeps people steady to their own resolutions,
and provides a sufficient answer whenever they are
tempted to break them. There are inconveniences, but
they must be endured for the sake of the great good
both to health, mind, and soul, and especially to temper,
which total abstinence produces. I do not think it
wrong to take wine or beer in themselves, and in ex-
treme moderation; but I think the evils arising from
them are so great and so extended, that all Christians
ought to come boldly forward, and endeavour to stem
the torrent.
.
286
PEOPLING OF AMERICA.
I have always omitted telling you of an interesting
passage relating to the manner in which America was
populated. It is by a Dr. Lindley, of Tennassee, in
the "American Biblical Repository.'
66
""
6
Bengal says, that Gen. x. 25, means he was
called Peleg, because the earth was divided in his days.'
The word means a physical and geographcial division
which happened at once, and it is principally applicable
to a division of land and water. Whence in the Hebrew
tongue, Peleg came to signify a river. Plato relates
that the old Egyptian priests taught that there was for-
merly near the pillars of Hercules, an island called
Atlantis, larger than all Lybia and Asia, and from it
an easy passage to other islands, and from these to the
continent which was opposite and next to the true sea
or Pacific. In after times, there happened a dreadful
earthquake, which continued a whole day and night,
and the island Atlantis being overwhelmed by the
waves, sunk in the ocean. And the sea in this place
has been ever since so filled with mud and sand, that
no one can sail over it to those other islands, or near
the firm land. The islands alluded to as beyond Atlantis,
are evidently the West India Isles. The whole account
is probably true, and affords a reasonable solution to the
division of the earth in the time of Peleg, and also to
the question how America was peopled. If from Africa,
the extermination and subjection of Ham by Japhet,
meets with striking fulfilment in that hemisphere. The
Red Indians are not unlike the ancient Egyptians, and
the earthquake happened long enough ago to account
for the depth of the sea at present, although 1500 or
1800 years B.C., it may have been still choked with sand
and mud."
I wish you could find out if Columbus knew of
this passage in Plato, and if it had any influence-
(if he knew it, it must have had some)-in convinc-
ing him that there was a great continent beyond the
Atlantic.
It will give you some idea of the depravity of the
MISERY OF WIDOWS.
287
Natives, to mention that we passed to-day a pretty little
girl, singing at the top of her voice; and C. told me that
the words of the song were so utterly detestable and
vile, that hardly any man among the worst in London
would sing such, unless previously intoxicated. Mú-
hammadans are practically as bad as the Hindus, though
their religion is far better; for nothing, it is said, can
equal the abominations of the Hindu deities and modes
of worship.
(6
The verses taught to children at school are such as
cannot be repeated. I saw a letter lately from an
educated Hindu, who after citing one or two, said that
decency forbade him to give any further specimens of
the slokas or couplets he had been taught in his child-
hood." Think what must be the state of a nation,
when children are systematically trained in wickedness,
and their acts of worship consist of crimes. Mr. Jan-
vier was saying the other day, that although the aboli-
tion of Sati is a thing to be carried through by all
means, still that the condition of a Hindu widow is
often so lamentable as to make death almost preferable.
She is obliged to submit to all kinds of austerities and
fasts, and from their patriarchal mode of living-(all the
branches of a family live together under one roof, and
under the authority of the father or eldest brother)-
too many jealous eyes are over the poor widow, to allow
of her escaping any of these inflictions.
I now, with the help of the dictionary, manage to
have long conversations with my Munshí.
I was
telling him the other day about the Algerines, and
mentioned that they, as well as the Turkish and
Egyptian Muhammadans, freely ate and smoked with
Christians. He said at once there was nothing in the
Kurán against it. Although a learned man, he knew
nothing about the Egyptians beyond the name, nor
about the Memlúks, or the Beys, or the Dey of Algiers.
I endeavoured to give him some idea of Christianity,
and in return he told me that Múhammadans believe
in purgatory, which they call "Aráf," and which is
tenanted by infants of Hindus and others, who dying
288
MUSSALMAN ASTRONOMY-SOBRAON.
before they have committed sin, are consigned to this
abode, which is situated between heaven and hell.
When the gales from heaven blow over them, they
revive and live; when the gusts of hell reach them,
they die; and this alternation continues for ever. I
rather think wicked Mussalmans go to hell for a time,
but I must inquire.
Many of their traditions and doctrines are childishly
absurd, and others are rather poetical. For instance:
Abdulrahman Khán, who often comes, and sits with us
in the evening, on our admiring the extreme beauty of
the sky, deigned to enlighten us on the subject of the
stars, by saying that all things were created with a
reference to man, and that the stars were stuck in the
sky for our pleasure, just as brass-headed nails are stuck
in a door. Soon after, we saw one of those beautiful
falling stars, so frequent in this climate; C. asked our
Afghán friend what he thought of them. He said that
the evil angels constantly endeavour to listen to what
is going on in Paradise, but that the heavenly watchers.
at the gate hurl these fiery darts at them, and drive
them back.
The Quarter Master-Sergeant mentioned casually the
other day, that at the battle of Sobráon only one mor-
tar had a platform, without which essential appendage,
a mortar, on being fired, goes head over heels and
buries itself in the sand. Two or three howitzers burst
for want of platforms, and the supply of ammunition
was so short that the batteries were silenced for want
of it, at the very time when they ought to have covered
the advance of the infantry against the Sikh batteries.
The consequence was, that the latter played on our
troops with redoubled vigour and effect, and caused
most murderous results. There were so few artillery-
men to serve the guns, that most of the horse artillery
were dismounted to man the batteries. When, there-
fore, the horse artillery were required, the guns were
brought forward under the charge of bare-legged Saises
(grooms), with here and there a dragoon whom they
had picked up as they could, the horses kicking over
DENUDED MAGAZINES-CHINSURAH.
289
the traces, and everything in confusion.* Major T.,
who you know is a kindly Scot, told C. the first enemy
they met, that he never saw such confoosion. You may
imagine that the authorities have not profited very much
by the lesson they then received, on the danger of being
unprovided with military stores; for the magazine here
is almost totally denuded of everything it ought to have.
The nearest magazine is that at Dehli, 200 miles dis-
tant, situated in the heart of the city, in the midst of a
fanatical Muhammadan population, three miles from the
cantonments, with a slender guard, thus being open to a
surprise by any daring adventurer or sudden outbreak.
Last campaign there was nothing to prevent the Sikhs
pushing on to Dehli, except the good providence of God
which kept them from doing it. Colonel Drummond,
Quartermaster-General of the Army, who has just
finished a very laborious work for the Governor-General,
on the comparative salubrity of the different canton-
ments in India, was telling my husband of a curious
instance of perverseness in the Governments of India
for a great number of years. Chinsurah, near Calcutta,
has been the depôt for newly-arrived troops. It has
been remonstrated against on account of its extreme
unhealthiness, ever since the place came into our posses-
sion, yet the successive Governments of India have
persisted in maintaining the station, and have built
barracks at an expense of 3 lachs of rupees (30,0007.),
where the men die by scores. Each man by the time
he is fit for duty in India, is reckoned as having cost
* Quartermaster-Serjeant W. C. Wharton, who related the above, was
a first-rate non-commissioned officer. He was afterwards transferred to
the 23rd Bengal Native Infantry as Serjeant-Major: on one occasion,
during Sir Charles Napier's expedition in 1850, he killed no less than
seven men with his own hand, one after the other, chiefly with the
sword. For a feat for which Napoleon would have given him the
Legion of Honour on the spot, and which Sir Charles Napier, with his
quick appreciation of military excellence of every kind, would have
rewarded to the extent of his power, the only recompense he got was a
coarse rebuke from a coarse commanding officer, telling him he needn't
expect to obtain a commission, zabardast (i.e. by force) in that way.
This excellent non-commissioned officer has lately fallen a sacrifice to the
climate of Bengal (1851).
VOL. I.
290
YIELDING TO SEPHAIS.
the Company from 100l. to 1207., so that the extrava-
gance of maintaining so unhealthy a station, to say
nothing of its inhumanity, is obvious. Colonel Drum-
mond is a very fine old officer, full of energy. He told
C. that although a Qui-hy* himself, he always inveighed
against the want of common discipline in the Bengal
army. He recollected the time long ago, when he was
on service with some Madras troops, when he nearly got
into several serious quarrels with officers of his own
Presidency, for openly asserting the superiority of the
Madras system of discipline. C. however thinks that
the incessant worry of the Madras system would never
suit the Bengal Sepáhi; and even as it is, it chiefly falls
on the shoulders of the unfortunate European officers,
for the Government of the "benighted presidency" have
long been in the habit of yielding to all the demands of
the Sepáhis, who, being very low caste men, manufac-
ture and obtrude their religious prejudices on all occa-
sions, when the high caste Bengalis would never think
of making an objection.
As an instance of this culpable weakness, a Madras
officer related to us, that the Adjutant-General having
determined to introduce the Kilmarnock cap worn in
Bengal, in place of the absurd monstrosity hitherto in
use (the sight of which is enough to provoke Heraclitus
himself to mirth), it was arranged to try it in one regi-
ment, on the principle that if one sheep leaps a dyke,
the rest will follow. The men cheerfully agreed to it,
with the single exception of the son of the Munshí,
who was incited to rebel by his father, a bigotted old
Mussalman. The cap was no more against his creed than
it is against yours, nevertheless, instead of at once
dismissing the malcontent and serving out the caps, the
authorities had the incredible weakness to reverse their
own decree, to recall the caps, and restore the ancient
monstrosity to its former "hideous reign."
* i.e. a Bengal officer; so called from the number of servants em-
ployed in Bengal, who are summoned by calling Koi-hy? Who is there?"
Bombay officers are called Ducks, from a fish for which their presidency
is famous. Madras officers, Mulls; I know not why.
SYMPATHY OF AFGHANS.
291
I am happy to say the muskets C. rejected, have, on
his representation, been changed by Government, who
have ordered him some of a superior kind (fusils), but
which are not to be had nearer than Delhi, so that he
is not likely to get them until November, although he
indented for them in May.
One of his old Jezailchis stopped us the other day
as we were going out, with such a handsome open
countenance, that I was quite interested in him before
I knew who he was. Hasan Khán remembered him
perfectly, and confirmed his assertion that he was one
of the last men that remained with him after my hus-
band was given up as a hostage. C. has now furnished
him with clean garments, and is trying to get a pension
for him. He has lost the toes of one foot from the
frost on the retreat from Kábul. His name is Múham-
mad Khán. He lives here, and, like Homer's heroes,
is no less remarkable for his prowess at the feast than
in the fray. Baedullah, who has acted as his purveyor,
assured us that he never saw a man eat so much at a
meal: he has devoured of a sir of meat and 1½ sirs
of meal daily, and as Baedullah added, "He made us
all lay hold of our ears, and cry Tobah!' when we
saw him." This they do to express extreme astonish-
ment. Now, as a sir is equivalent to 2lbs., it is no
wonder that the Jezailchi has grown visibly fat during
the last week. He does nothing but walk about, sleep,
eat as aforesaid, smoke, and look as meek and as
happy as a lamb.
.
6
September 16th.-The express came last night.
Heard that my dearest and honoured father had en-
tered into his rest. As we were coming home at nearly
dark that evening, we met Prince Shahpúr, who imme-
diately sent a horseman to inquire how I was. I must
tell you an instance of his ready politeness. On riding
home one morning, C. happened to look over the Shah
Zádeh's wall, and seeing his venerable monitor Sirfráz
there, made some little compliment on its good order.
In the course of the morning Shahpúr sent us a tray of
the best vegetables he had. The Afgháns have shown
0 2
292
REGIMENTAL WRESTLING MATCH.
me much sympathy and kindness. When Hasan Khán
first met me, he was quite moved, and repeatedly said
to my husband, "Comfort her, comfort her."
Monday, 21st September. The letters did not arrive
till this afternoon. Sad as they were, they were full of
comfort to me. I look up with joy, and think of my
dearest father, with his youth "renewed like the
eagle's," seeing Jesus "face to face," and I feel I
cannot mourn for him.
22nd September, 1847.-My Munshí came to me
this morning, and seeing me look sad, he tried to com-
fort me as follows: "Wise man-not know what
sorrow is." I smiled. "Patience very good." I
assented. "Will of God." I then told him as well as
I could the ground of comfort I had; that my dearest
father had loved God on earth, and that, therefore, I
trusted he was now with God, and told him the comfort
he had in reading the Scriptures.
September 24th.-There was an eclipse of the moon,
which the Hindus believe is caused by the attempt of a
great green dragon to devour her; they usually make a
hideous noise to scare away her assailants, but the
Hindus of Loodiana showed remarkable apathy, and
made but few efforts in her behalf.
The 6th Native Infantry had a great wrestling-match,
to which our regiment was invited. We stopped as we
were passing their lines, but it was all over, except
some of them playing at single-stick with very small
shields, under the thick shady foliage of the spreading
trees. Several of the 6th came up, as scantily clad as
decent men well could be. They were evidently pleased
at our stopping, and brought out a long-necked bottle
of rose-water, wherewith they sprinkled my husband,
and then, having asked permission, they dexterously
sent a showerful into my eyes. They then offered us a
tray with slices of apples and spices, a few of which I
took. This is the simple and courteous entertainment
they offer to each other. On our return home, we
found Abdulrahmán and his father, Atta Múhammad,
who had come to pay me a visit of condolence. The
SHAHZADEH TEIMUR.
293
old man, who says he considers me as his daughter,
told me he had not come before, because he understood
it was not customary to come immediately. They both
seemed really kind.
The father afterwards asked my husband why America
was called the New World. C. related the history of
its discovery. Atta Muhammad had heard the expres-
sion from Sir Claude Wade, years ago. I think it
would be well if we were as alive and as anxious to
inquire into all we do not know or understand. The
Khansáman amused me the other day, by panegyrizing
the little dog "Nel," in comparison to "Bow-wow."
He said "Nel" was a dog full of respect, for whenever
he came by, when they were either cooking or eating,
he always made a great circuit, instead of thrusting his
nose into every dish, as "Bow-wow" tries to do. As
we were coming home after the eclipse, we saw the
Shahzadeh Teimur, Shah Shujah's eldest son, preparing
for a drive; and as I wished to see him, we left the
buggy, and walked into William the Catechist's house,
close by, from whence I saw this curious cortège, pre-
ceded by about a dozen men on foot, in scarlet, with
spears; then came the Prince in a buggy, followed by
some horsemen, while divers Saises scampered after
them on foot. It was so dark that, being in the shade
of the porch, they could not see us. A horseman came
and asked for William as the "Chota Pádre,'
"chota"
meaning little, junior, or inferior. Teimúr spoke to
him in Hindústani-a great condescension, as a Sove-
reign is supposed to know no language but his own;
asked after him and his family, and his brother, the
other Chota Pádre, meaning Haldhar.
وو
William told us that when the Sikhs came to Loo-
diana, Prince Teimúr sent for him and his family, told
them not to fear, and most kindly kept all the women
and children in his own zenána for safety. So much
for the "old Indian" idea, which Dr. Duff exposes so
well in the July number of the "Free Church Mis-
sionary Record," of native converts being considered as
outcasts, and despised by their countrymen. Doubtless
294
SUFFERINGS OF SOLDIERS' WIVES.
they are outcasts from their families and friends, just
as a convert from Romanism is; but we see with our
own eyes the respect with which the native converts are
treated by their countrymen in general, when their
lives are consistent. Múhammadans of course consider
a Christian much better than an idolator; and Hindus
think each man is to be saved by the religion he pro-
fesses; if indeed they have any idea of what we mean
by salvation.
September 30th, 1847.-A young Scotchwoman, wife
of a bombardier, came to ask me if I could get a situation.
for her. She told us that coming up the country, the
women and children were brought up in the river
boats; and the voyage from Calcutta to Cawnpore was
only fourteen days shorter than from Liverpool to
Calcutta. They were sent up in June, the very middle
of the hot season, in boats, as usual, previous to the
sun. The doctor (Macpherson by name) who was with
them, took no charge of them whatever. Doctors
seldom do give advice or warning to either the soldiers
or their wives, thinking it of no use. The surgeon of a
hussar regiment laughed at me for warning a ruddy
young girl fresh from England, who was sitting bare-
headed in the sun, saying, "We never give them any
advice, it is if no use; we let them take their own
way" and of course numbers are sacrificed to their
ignorance of the climate and its dangers. Many,
doubtless, are obstinate, but not all. Money was given
to these poor women for subsistence, but no one told
them what food they would require, or what they
ought to get; so that many of them lived on a little
tea, without any milk or sugar, and thick, indigestible
chapatis of wheat-flour and water. The consequence
was that the deaths were frightfully numerous, five or
six bodies of women and children being often buried
by the river side in one morning; and yet no repre-
sentation was made by their officers.
A poor soldier's wife is indeed to be pitied; she is
often a young, inexperienced country girl: nobody cares
for her, no one looks after her; her health is as likely
SYMPATHY OF NATIVES.
295
to give way as any lady's in India; she is treated more
like an animal than a woman, obliged to live day and
night in barracks, in the same room with a crowd of
rude, depraved men, married and single: probably her
husband beats and kicks her; and when on board ship,
she is worse off than a female convict. In India, she
is sent hither and thither at all seasons, and she may
truly say,
"No man careth for my soul," for hitherto I
have only seen two chaplains who can be considered ast
truly Christian men; undoubtedly there are others, but
they are rari nantes, &c.*
Wednesday, Sept. 29.-Hasan Khán's wives came to
pay a visit of condolence; they had offered to do so
before, but we deferred it. When they spoke to me of
my loss, they both wept; and although this is the
custom, I am sure they felt sincere sympathy, and it
was a comfort to me.
Except Mrs. Henry Drummond and Mr. Janvier,
the Afgháns are the only people who have spoken to
me of my dearest father's death, and have shown real
and natural feeling on the occasion. Surely the cold
English fashion, or awkwardness, whichever it is, of
passing over the cause of grief, and saying nothing
about it, is not in accordance with the apostolic injunc-
tion, to "weep with them that weep." Paul well knew
that sympathy is the best comfort; and I assure you
that these wild Muhammadans have been of more com-
fort to me than all the Christians in Loodiana. This
ought not to be so. An Afghán or a native speaks to
me of it, says he is grieved, and tries to afford me
consolation; and the very attempt is pleasing. An
European, even a Christian, asks me how I am, and
seems afraid to allude to the subject; and therefore his
* Orders have lately been issued for married soldiers to have separate
barracks from the single men. Sir Charles Napier also made some
excellent regulations regarding the number of cubic feet to be allowed
for every inmate of a barrack. But still more recently the number of
married men has been limited to twelve per company, which is beneath
the present average, at least in the artillery. Now certainly any one
who has the welfare of the soldier at heart would endeavour to increase
the number of marriages instead of limiting them.
296
NEGLECT OF A SOLDIER'S FEELINGS.
or her company is a restraint to me, which I would
much rather be without.
That huge burly Náib Rassaldar, Attah Muhammad,
came here a few days ago; and on hearing of the loss I
had sustained, he begged C. to tell me how grieved he
was, and then opening his hands like the leaves of a book,
said, "Let us have a fátiha,"" or prayer. C. put his
hands in the same position, and, with his face quite red
with emotion, and his eyes full of tears, Atta Múham-
mad prayed that God would bless and comfort me, and
that the blessing of Jesus the Messiah might come upon
Then they both stroked their beards. The hearti-
ness and earnestness with which it was done quite
touched me. This kind man cannot read, so that he
could not use a New Testament. But is not this a fine
native soil, and will it not be a glorious harvest, when
the good seed of the Word springs up to everlasting life
in the hearts of these men?
me.
Another of my husband's gallant little band of Jezail-
chis arrived the other day, Amir Khán, a Naib (or
deputy) Jamadar, whom C. appointed to take charge of
Captain Eyre's family on the retreat, and who brought
Freddy Eyre on his horse, safe through the Kabúl Pass.
He came to ask for a certificate. He is a stout hand-
some man, with, like most of his countrymen, the most
beautiful long silky eyelashes imaginable. They are the
handsomest race I ever saw. Hasan Khán is just what
the Hindus would call him, "The Unquiet One." He
is never happy unless in a state of fiery excitement; the
other day he worked himself up to boiling-heat, in
speaking of his old Commandant, Captain F., and
related several facts, which are certainly not to his
credit. A sister's son of Hasan Khán's, who was with
Captain F. when he was attacked at Peshbolak, fought
to the last with the greatest gallantry, keeping the
gateway, and as Hasan Khán said, "behaving like a
man."
At last he was killed. When Captain F. met
his uncle afterwards he never said one word to him on
the subject, expressed no sympathy, did not even tell
him his nephew had been killed. Muhammad Hasan
PROMOTION OF HAVILDAR MAJOR.
297
said, "If he had but told me, 'your nephew was killed
fighting,' it would have been enough;" but he only
heard this from some of the Jezailchis. Again, pre-
vious to Hasan Khán's momentous expedition to Kábul,
a relation of his was dying, notwithstanding which
Captain F. wished to detach him on a treasure party,
and on his remonstrating, assured him it was necessary
he should go, as there was no one else he could trust.
When he returned he found his relation dead and
buried. "I took up his body," he said, "embalmed it,
and asked leave to go and bury it among our own
people." I told him I should be disgraced if I did not
do it; all my tribe would say, 'Ah! he is too busy
making money, he does not care for his kinsfolk.'" It
was in vain-Captain F. would not let him go.
describes everything in pantomime as well as in words,
so that I can almost follow his narrative.
He
October 9th, 1847.-C. has lately promoted his
Havildar Major to be Subadar, the highest rank of
native officer in a regiment. When he told him of it,
the man, a very fine Rajpút, who has done excellent
service since he joined, said nothing, only made a mili-
tary salute, and when C. afterwards in private expressed
his gratification at having the opportunity of promot-
ing him, he merely joined his hands, and tried to
mutter something, with tears swimming in his soft
large eyes. C. was quite touched, for it was so dif-
ferent from the usual exuberance of verbal gratitude
shown by the natives. He came soon after in uniform,
to pay his respects on promotion, and looked very
happy; an arm-chair was placed for him, and he sat
down as a visitor for the first time. Since then he
comes on business in his usual simple dress. His pro-
motion, however, excited great wrath in another Havil-
dar, who came and requested to be sent back to his
former regiment. For this most insubordinate request
my husband deprived him of his pay Havildarship,
reducing him to plain Havildar, by which he loses five
rupees a month. He then ordered all the pay Havildars
to assemble here (such a fine set of men! none under
0 3
298
POOR BHISTI-ORPHAN SCHOOL.
six feet), and caused the regimental Munshí to read to
them the parable of the Labourers in the Vineyard.
He told them this is the word of God; and explained
to them that they had entered as Sepáhis on seven
rupees a month, and ought to be contented if they
remained so always; they understood the parable per-
fectly, and were quite pleased with it. It certainly
appears to me that he has a most admirable way
dealing with people in general.
of
I was much interested in another regimental incident.
A poor Bhistí, or water-carrier, got leave to visit his
mother, who was very ill, over stayed his leave, and did
not come back till after muster-a heinous offence, and
moreover no one gets pay, who is absent without leave
on muster-day. He came just as we were going to
dine out, and was most ostentatiously and imperiously
desired to depart by the orderlies, who, in virtue of
their office, are the most overbearing and despotic
personages imaginable, for this was not the proper
time to come. C. beckoned to him to approach, where-
upon they cried, "Now halt, don't advance a step
farther." The poor Sikh stood with his hands joined
making his petition, and my husband's old Bhistí, who
was with him at Pesháwur, and who always amuses
me by his grey beard being stained red, while the
moustache is left white, was so moved that, although
the delinquent was a Sikh and he himself a Mussalman,
he could not help crying, "Oh, be merciful." I am
happy to tell you the poor man was re-admitted and
got his pay.
The Orphan School here is really disheartening to
the Missionaries. Mrs. Rudolph, who has had the care
of it the last year, told me that she had taught them
Scripture History until she was quite weary of repeating
it. On asking them casually, a short time after, who
Adam was, one said an angel, another a devil, and the
rest did not know. Some of these girls are from twelve
to fifteen years of age. A nice young girl of fifteen,
named Louisa Sylvester, is staying with the Rudolphs.
Her father, a hospital steward, was killed at Kabul;
#
ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE.
299
she lost her mother, and was in charge of a lady, who,
about a year ago, placed her in the convent at Agra,
where she was nearly made a Papist of. Mrs. Rudolph
very kindly offered to take her, but said she could not
devote any time to teach her. I have therefore under-
taken to give her a lesson in geography and history
daily; besides which we read a chapter in the Bible,
and she has a Bible lesson on Sundays. Though by
no means advanced even in the groundwork of edu-
cation, she is quick and diligent, and a very pleasant
child to teach.
October 19th, 1847.-Sometime ago we sent a shep-
herd and a Choukedar of the regiment with 100 rupees
to buy a flock of sheep for the Mutton Club. They
were obliged to buy a large he-goat to walk at the head
of the flock, for until they did so the sheep ran hither
and thither, and could not be driven comfortably.
Does not this illustrate the expression (Jer. iv. 8) in
which the Jews are told to go out of Babylon, and be
as the he-goats before the flocks, that is, set an example
to others to follow?
Again, each of the servants has so many dusters in
his charge, one of which he always carries about with
him. Most of them gird themselves with it, and I
seldom see one unfasten the end of his towel, if about
to wash anything, without thinking of our blessed Lord
condescending to do the same.
These are just some of the illustrations of Scripture
that we see daily. The crowd of wild Pariáh dogs,
which rove about the city, give quite a different mean-
ing to the expression, "Dogs have compassed me,"
(Ps. xxii. 16), to what it has in our ears, who are
accustomed to have only faithful and civilized dogs
come about one. You remember how many passages
speak of the tinkling of the anklets of the Jewish
women: here they not only often wear a whole row of
silver bangles, but sometimes they have little silver
tassels attached to them, which of course make a great
jingling in walking.
300
Maker Maker band
CHAPTER IX.
G
Hindu Festival Persian Testament. Walis Superstition - Hasan
Khan in a Pet-Shahzadeh Shahpur's Gallantry-Muhammad Shahı
Khan's Kasid-Abdulrahman Khan on Prayer-Hindu Ignorance of
Mussalmans-Hindu Bearers-Kurban-Breakfast at Hasan Khan's
-Afghan Estimate of Wives-A Molewi-Futile Cavils against
Christianity" Don't ec brack my Bones"-Amir Dost Muliainmad's
Treachery Shah Shujah's Pride Flowery Grass Miss Laing's
School-Missionary Meeting-Examination of Schools-A Little Class
The Fire-mouth-Pantheism-Worship of Regimental Colours-
Havildar Major on Idolatry-Plato Enlists-Wild Cat-Bandicot
Rat-Cold-Dogs in Coats-New Bazar - Bankers Carpenter's
Tools-Fine for killing accidentally-Elephant-Hindus Cooking-
Sikh Hair Chess -- Agha Muhammad's Adventure Shahzadeh
Jammur-Sultan Muhammad-Ill Treatment of 120 Afghans
Shabudin-Danger of Beef Eating-Kashmiri Women.
OCTOBER 20th.-Captain C. has just had to bury the
child of an artilleryman. He afterwards delivered a
short address to those present. For fifteen years he
has laboured for the salvation of his men, without seeing
any fruit. But it is no wonder that the men do not
profit by what he teaches them, when the officers set
the example of ridiculing him. Nothing can be worse
than the example set by most of the officers here. A
Madras newspaper sometime ago traced the numerous
crimes and the evil lives of almost all the European
soldiers in India, to the prevalence of similar low habits
and morality amongst the officers. This paragraph was
copied and approved by the "Dehli Gazette."
Yesterday was a great holiday of the Hindus; those
of our regiment sent a request to their Commandant
302
BLACK-BEARDED DAUGHTERS.
and man is peculiar to Christianity; neither the Mus-
salman, the Hindú, nor the Parsí, have the most remote
conception of it, and the Romanist has so lost sight of
it, as to take refuge with "the Mother of Mercy," from
the wrath of Him, "who so loved the world that He
gave His only begotten son that all that believe in Him
should not perish, but have everlasting life."
The Munshi confesses that the more a Múhammadan
prays and tells his beads, the greater rogue he is sure
to be. All spies and adepts at intrigue make a point of
carrying their beads.
My husband and the Munshi have had a great argu-
ment about Wális. These are supposed prophets, who
have the power of working miracles, but who keep
themselves very quiet and much abstracted from the
world, and are only discoverable by the understanding
few. The Munshi told these stories.
When C. asked him in 1840 to accompany him to
Pesháwur, he was much inclined to do so till he con-
sulted a Wali, who said, "Don't go-great dangers
await you"-a very safe prophecy for any man who
knew the state of Afghánistan. This C. endeavoured
to show him, whereupon he brought forward another
proof of the supernatural powers of Wali. He has a
child who seems to be a kind of "natural," and two or
three years ago, while thinking of this child, he heard
of the arrival of a Wali who appears to have been
insane, with sufficient cunning to take advantage of the
respect paid him. The Munshi went to him and sat
down. The unsavory Saint was very condescending to
him, and even gave him a pipe to smoke, saying to his
attendant, "Daughter give Daughter pipe," each of the
so-called daughters being black-bearded Mussalmans.
The Munshi then told his grief and received for answer,
"Oh, daughter, be not discomfited, thy child will
recover." And," continued the simple man, "two
years afterwards she began to say a word or two." C.
then told him of the Wali of whom the Amír Dost
Muhammad inquired when he should return to Afghán-
istan. The Wali said he must consider for a day or two,
(C
CHILDREN OF GOD."
301
through the Havildar Major, that he would come and
see the festival. He told the Havildar Major that he
was a Christian, because he believed it to be the only
way of salvation, and, if he went to the show, people
would think he either did not believe in his own reli-
gion, or that he considered all religions alike; and bade
him explain to the men that it was out of no disrespect
to them personally, and that he would never interfere
with any man's worship; but that he considered idolatry
as sinful, and would, therefore, be acting against his
conscience if he countenanced it. The Havildar Major
understood perfectly, and said it was quite right, and I
am sure the Hindus will only respect him the more.
I gave a Persian testament the other day to Atta
Múlammad, who put it to his forehead, and said he
would read it, and take the greatest care of it. I
thought his sympathy with me was a good opportunity
of asking him to accept it. He was quite pleased, and
told us a few days afterwards that he had had some of it
read to him; he also showed a very fair knowledge of
some parts of the Old Testament history.
C. has been reading the Gospel of St. Matthew in
Persian with the Múnshi, who is evidently shaken in
some of his prejudices, and cannot answer C.'s s argu-
ments on the necessity and perfection of the atonement.
But you can hardly imagine the gross and carnal manner
in which they understand Scripture. For instance,
Hasan Khán was greatly shocked at the beatitude,
"Blessed are the peace makers, for they shall be called
the children of God." He said it was very bad, and
nothing could make him understand that the words
"children of God" were not meant literally but
spiritually.
Taylor, in his "Lectures on Spiritual Christianity,"
speaks of the filial sentiment towards the Most High as
one quite peculiar to Christianity, and says, "Genuine
piety commences at the moment when the love of our
Heavenly Father towards ourselves individually, as His
children, is distinctly recognized." So true is this, that
even the theory of the paternal relation between God
HASAN KHAN-PRINCE SHAHPUR.
303
and in the meantime went to Captain Peter Nicholson'
who had charge of the Dost, and asked him what he
should say. Captain Nicholson gave him five rupces,
and thinking it would keep his prisoner quiet, and pre-
vent his trying to escape, told the Wali to answer he
would return in four years. The impostor did so, and
received rich presents from the credulous Dost, who
really did return about the time specified, and the said
Wali is in consequence looked upon as the greatest
prophet in those parts. Captain Nicholson told my
husband this himself. The Munshí could only answer,
that that Wali was a great Dagha-báz or rogue, literally
a "player with knavery."
Hasan Khán is really the greatest baby I ever saw,
as impatient as a child for anything he wants-he never
reflects whether there has been time for it to reach him
or not, and when disappointed or cross, he pouts and
sulks and shrugs his shoulders, and looks as if he were
ready to cry, exactly like a naughty spoilt boy. He has
not the least self-control. Sirfraz Khán, who is at the
head of Prince Shahpur's household, came to consult
my husband how an increase of pension could be ob-
tained for the Shahzadeh, who at present subsists on
the pitiful allowance of 400 rupees a month, and this
after being acknowledged King by General Pollock,
and having relations and retainers innumerable to pro-
vide for. Sirfraz Khán, although he must know that
every one of his countrymen is full of enmity and jea-
lousy towards all the rest, unwarily opened the subject
in the presence of Hasan Khán, who, being already very
cross, immediately burst out into a tirade against Shah-
pur, calling him a coward, and I know not what besides.
C. immediately took up his cause, described the gallant
boy's behaviour during the expedition to Istalif, when
he and his body of Kazilbash Horsemen were placed.
under my husband's charge-how eager he always was
for action, and the contempt he expressed for some of
the Kazilbash Chiefs when he thought them inclined to
hang back, and as Hasan Khán had nothing to reply,
he leant back in his chair and sulked. Sirfraz Khán
:
304
WILY KASSID-SICK CHILD.
brought a Kassid (a messenger) with him, who was the
bearer of a letter from Muhammad Shah Khán and
Dost Muhammad Khán to my husband.
The Kassid was one of these wily men who are made
the medium of all intrigues. His beard was partly
grey, and his turban being pushed a little back showed
that he wore his hair beneath it-he had a beautiful
nosc, and such brilliant, intelligent, crafty eyes. I saw
one glance at Sirfraz Khán which convinced me the old
gentleman had said something imprudent. It was a
quick reproving look, such as a disguised Jesuit superior
might give to a blundering novice. He was poorly
dressed, with a ragged cloth for a Chogah, and his beads
in his hand. He drew forth a small book and took the
letter from between the boards and the lining, and then
sat down on the floor counting his beads and quietly
surveying everything in the room, and marking all that
was said or done. The letter was from Muhammad
Shah Khan and his brother. The former acknowledged
the receipt of C.'s auspicious letter, and what he had
sent, i. e. the Testaments, and professed that both
brothers were ready to obey the slightest nod of the
British Government, who, however, do not wish to
have anything to say to them.
Abdulrahman Khan was present when a poor Afghán
came to say his little girl Assoa was very ill with high
fever and delirium, and C. told Abdulrahmán that the
poor child often came here, and added, "and perhaps
she may die!" "God forbid that she should die!"
cried he; "you are going to have prayers—pray for the
child." And then turning towards him he continued,
"I wish you knew what was in my heart for you. It
is great friendship. I see here purity of life;" and
then he expressed a hope that even though not a
Muhammadan he might be saved, saying, in a kind of
soliloquy—“I have a strong hope that there may be a
place for you in Paradise."
in Paradise." C. took the opportunity of
explaining to him the grounds on which he hoped for
salvation, namely, through the blood of Christ alone.
He and my husband always read the Scriptures toge-
EATING EGGS.
305
ther when he comes, and though he constantly caps a
Scripture passage with some absurd legend or quota-
tion from the Kúran, yet we may surely hope that the
Word of God will not be wholly plucked out of his
heart, but that it may yet bear fruit. The Munshi says
it is very good that we should inquire into the right
way, and when C. offered up a prayer in Persian that
they might both be led into all truth, he added a
fervent Amin! Amen.
The Babu or English writer, who was so wrath at a
tract Jacob gave him, now confesses that he is a sinner,
and received the same tract thankfully. C. takes much
pains with him and the Quartermaster-Sergeant, and
often reads and speaks at length to them. So he does.
with the Regiment Munshi and Native Doctor, though
they are less often in his way, but the two former are
daily. He also took pains with the Sergeant-Major,
who has lately been appointed to another regiment. On
his going away C. spoke a few words to him, not, as he
said, as his commanding officer, but as a fellow criminal
who must soon appear with him at the bar of God.
The rough blunt soldier had tears in his eyes, and as the
Quartermaster-Sergeant said that he was very anxious
to be allowed to keep "The Church in the Army,"
which we had lent him, and which was the first reli-
gious book he had ever read, it was, of course, given to
him; C. also gave him a Bible, and I "the Holy War,"
for his wife. Imagine the simple Havildar Major ex-
plaining to us why Muhammadans will take water from
the hands of a Hindú, but not from those of a Sikh-
that the Sikhs cat pork and fowls, and even EGGS!
The two latter are an abomination to Hindús, but the
Mussalmans themselves eat them just as we do. I
could give you many other instances how ignorant one
sect is of all that concerns the others.
We have just seen the Journal of the Catechists of
the Free Kirk at Calcutta, which shows a most wonder-
ful diminution of Hindú prejudices among the people
they visited. Even Brahmans received them kindly,
and gave them food.
306
BREAKFAST AT HASAN KHAN'S.
October 21st.-I am not at all pleased with Hin-
dustani. It appears to me to have a most wearisome
sameness of construction, and to express things awk-
wardly; but I want to know if the imperative and
indefinite future are not alike in Hebrew. They are
so in Hindustani, so that this would account for many
passages in the Psalms, which almost look as if David
were imprecating vengeance on his enemies; whereas
if the Hebrew be like Hindustani, there is no difference
between the imperative "Let them be" or "may they
be," and the future "They will or shall be." There
are many Arabic words in Hindustani which are like
Hebrew; for instance, "kúrbán," a sacrifice, I sup-
pose is the same word as corban." Pray tell me if it
be so.
(6
Yesterday we had a dust storm, which lasted nearly
twenty-four hours. We could hardly see a house
cighty yards off; the dust lay in heaps in the veran-
dahs, and in shoals on the carpets, tables, and our
unlucky heads. Then came rain, but the wind is still
exceedingly high.
Saturday, October 23rd.-Breakfasted at Hasan
Khán's with Colonel Speirs and Major Macdonald. I
sat a little while in the Zenáná, and then Hasan Khán
came for me. He had got table and chairs, and
borrowed our plate and one of our servants, so that we
might cat in our own fashion, but the meal itself was
quite an Afghán one. There were kids and lambs
roasted whole, pillaus, kuftas, which are like rissoles,
and a variety of smaller dishes, besides fowls, so that
the table was insufficient to contain such a feast. In
vain Hasan Khán tried to make room by piling the
large flat loaves upon each other, snatching a kid off
its dish and putting it on the top of the bread; at last
C. and Major Macdonald established themselves on the
floor, and Colonel Speirs and I amused ourselves with
criticising their Afghán habits. Hasan Khán thrust a
fowl into the hands of one of his men to take to us,
and another to them, and kept loading our plates with
choice morsels, dexterously tearing off a joint or gather-
EFFECTS OF POLYGAMY.
307
ing up a handful of sausages with his fingers. C. and
Major Macdonald displayed their skill in eating with
their fingers,—a very difficult art when rice is to be
eaten, as it runs up one's sleeve. Everything was very
good; the meat excellent; and a pillau, flavoured with
lemon, is worthy of being introduced into Europe.
They poured water on our hands before and after
eating. Being in Hindústan, Hasan Khán could not
well eat publicly with us, but he sat down by C. and
Major M., and helped them to the best bits, until he
was overcome by the savory odour and could no longer
refrain.
In Afghánistan, and everywhere except in India,
Mussalmans eat freely with Christians, but here they
have learned Hindú customs. Little Padimah (pro-
perly Fatimah) is quite fond of me, and sits on my side
as she would on her mother's. It is much the easiest
way of carrying a child: just try it. When we took
leave, a horse was brought out as a present for Colonel
Speirs, which, of course, he did not accept. Hasan
Khán is just gone to Peshawur to meet his other
wives.
The Afgháns generally think nothing of the death of
a wife. When my husband was in Afghánistan he was
several times asked, "Are you married?"
"No; my
wife is dead." "We hear you are very sorry when your
wives dic: did you weep?" "Yes, I did." Where-
upon they were struck dumb with astonishment, that
any one could feel the death of a wife so strongly.
"Why should we grieve," say they, "there are plenty
of others;" and yet these are men of warm feelings,
capable of strong attachments and sympathy: but this
only makes the fact more evident, that any violation of
the law written in the hearts of all, or of the arrange-
ments of the Creator (to say nothing of His revealed
laws), brings with it its own punishment. Polygamy
has destroyed everything like domestic and family ties.
Sometimes nature reasserts her right, and produces.
strong attachment between husband and wife, brother
and brother; but this is the exception, and that this
308
A MOLEVI AND HIS DISCIPLES.
state of things is produced by polygamy, and not
merely by ignorance of true religion, is proved by the
example of the ancient Romans during the period when
divorce was unknown, and when the wife, being the
sole and life-long partner of her husband, gave him not
only a help-meet but a home and a domestic hearth,
ideas unknown to Múhammadans. There must be a
mater familias before true family ties can exist.
In looking back to the Hindú Rajahs and others,
whom we saw at Benáres, I cannot tell you how
strongly the contrast strikes me between them and the
Afgháns. The former seem so weak, so childish, such
mere babies by the side of these manly, energetic men.
By-the-by, C. has been reading my Journal, and says
that if I do not explain, you will certainly think the
Munshí is a fool, when you read of his devotion to
Walis. He is quite the contrary, being a clever and, as
far as a Mussalman can be, a candid man. He brought
his Molevi, i. e. a kind of combination of Muhammadan
Scribe and Pharisee, whom he called "My Master,"
and assured me he was a 66
very learned and godly
man."
When the Molevi came over, the Munshí imme-
diately gave up his chair, which he took as a matter of
course, while an intelligent looking man, a scholar of
his, stood beside him. The Molevi was very plainly
dressed, with a quiet manner, but his behaviour was
that of a man who feels himself superior to all around,
and therefore had no pretension, while the respectful
deference of the other two was quite that of disciples.
to their teacher and master.
It was a relation of
which I had never seen any other example, and inter-
ested me much. Both the Molevi and his scholar were
suffering from over study and want of exercise. I told
them the body was like a slave to serve the mind, but, if
it was too hardly treated, it would fall sick, and could do
no more. The sage was graciously pleased with my
little parable.
Thursday.-Molevi came again to see my husband,
and brought a book against Christianity by a famous
DOST MUHAMMAD'S TREACHERY.
309
Muhammadan doctor at Laknao. He mentioned some
of the objections advanced in it, which were all of the
most trivial description; such as one translation of
"Behold my servant whom I uphold," having "Bandi,"
slave, and another, "Noukar," servant. He also ob-
jected to the passage in the Psalms, "Gird thou thy
sword upon thy thigh, thou most mighty," and said
that it could not apply to Christ, as he never wore a
sword. C. told him that the Jews were as much
opposed to Christianity as the Muhammadans, yet the
Old Testament in the hand of the Jews all over the
world is exactly the same as that which Christians
acknowledge; now it cannot be supposed that the Jews
would unite with Christians in altering or interpolating
their own sacred book. To this he had nothing to
reply. The different sects among Christians form a
similar proof of the genuineness of the New Testament.
The genuineness of neither was ever doubted until
Muhammad's time; and they who bring the accusation
of falsification should prove their assertion. I think
the testimony to the truth of the Gospel writing from
the unanimous consent of so many opposing sects, may
have been one of the reasons why those divisions were
permitted.
Took tea with the Drummonds, who are just about
to leave Loodiana. Everybody flits in the cold season.
Mrs. D. told us of a poor little boy, who was born with
such fragile bones that they broke thirteen times before
he was five years old. He got a little stronger, but
was still nearly as fragile as glass, when at length he
was brought to be baptized. The clergyman stooped to
lift the little creature, when it looked up at him and
said, "Please zur, don't ee brack my bones." Poor
little man-ny, can't you fancy it?
When Sirfráz Khán was leaving Afghánistan, the
Amir, Dost Múhammad, met him, swore upon the
Kurán that he was the best friend he had in the world,
and tried every art to induce him to return. He after-
wards married the daughter of Amínullah Khán (Sir-
fraz's brother), and then murdered the old man with his
310
SHAH SHUJAH'S PRIDE.
own hands, smothering him with a pillow. Sirfráz
Khán says Shah Shujah's pride amounted to insanity.
To such an extent did he carry it, that he never suf-
fered any of his numerous daughters to marry; and
when the King of Delhi, who, as the representative of
Akbar the Great, is certainly the first Muhammadan
prince in the East, sent to ask for one of them as
a wife for one of his own sons, Shah Shujah was
perfectly frantic at the insult! Just as if Louis
Philippe were to despise the alliance of the Emperor of
Austria.
From this foolish old Shah's pride it is a fit transition
to speak of the flower of the grass. I must send you
some, The road-sides are everywhere adorned with
huge clumps of flowering grass, from eight to twelve
feet high. I have one blade in a large bouquet before
me, and the flower alone is very nearly three feet high.
It is just like our flowering grasses, only of this Brob-
dignag size.
October 30th.-I have lately heard from Miss Laing
about the little orphans we are to have at her school.
They will cost only six shillings a month each. Miss
Laing says she writes by the bedside of a poor little
sufferer. Burning fever and distracting pain leave
her short intervals of ease, yet Jesus makes himself
precious to the soul of this outcast." Miss Laing has
lately begun a school for heathen girls, in addition to
that for the orphans of which she has the entire charge.
About thirty or forty already attend the day school.
How she shames us by her zeal in the Lord's work!
She seems a kindred spirit of Mrs. Wilson's of Bombay,
whose most interesting memoir, if you have not read,
you ought to read as soon as possible. Such are the
Missionaries whom we ought to pray that the Lord
would send into his vineyard.
November 9th, 1847.-This is the time of the Mis-
sionary Annual Meetings. On Sabbath evening there
was the communion. I remarked one very fine looking
elderly man, who, they told me, had been a Roman
Catholic; he is now a Catechist. Mr. Newton's Pandit,
QUESTION OF BAPTISM.
311
a venerable looking old man, was present throughout
the service.
There was an examination of the boys at the ligh
School the other day, and in the evening, of the Orphan
Girls. I am happy to say, they showed much more
knowledge than could have been anticipated from their
answers about Adam. Only five have been there above
a year; of these, three of the elder ones can read fluently;
the others have made different degrees of progress ; nine
of them have each made a shirt very neatly, and they
gave very fair answers on the carly part of Old Testa-
ment history. I think the great want is an assistant
who could be thoroughly depended upon, and who could
watch them, and be with them at all times, for many of
them, especially those from Kabul, are very depraved.
Mrs. Rudolph teaches them, and takes the most con-
scientious pains with them; but there is no constant
superintendence, and this appears absolutely neces-
sary.
I think it a great pity that the Missionaries should
have baptized any of these children, for the youngest of
those from Kábul must be at least six years old, and
Mrs. R. pointed out an elder one of ten or twelve years
of age, and said, "I had her baptized with the little
ones, for she appears a good child;” while at this very
time none of them had any acquaintance with the
Gospel.
I believe they do it as standing in the place of parents
towards these children; but the position of a Missionary
and his wife in charge of a school of eighteen or twenty
girls is very different from a parent, whether towards a
real or adopted child; and, morcover, I do not think a
Christian parent has a right to present his child for
baptism if it should have arrived at an age of personal
responsibility, without any knowledge of the way of sal-
vation.
On Tuesday, November 2nd.-I began, with Louisa's
help, to give an hour's instruction to the children of the
Catechist and of my Ayah. My Ayah, who was for
some years in Mr. Porter's family, acknowledges the
312
THE FIRE-MOUTH-PANTHEISM.
truth of Christianity, but says that when she tries to
pray, Satan comes and hinders her. Mr. R. told me
that when she (the Ayah) was lately attending one of
the young Christian women in her confinement; she
spoke very plainly to her, and admonished her to put
her trust in Jesus, and call upon him now in her hour
of need. She is present while I give the lesson, and
often repeats and explains what I say to the children.
Mr. Porter, who has been absent on a Missionary
tour for the last month, told us that on the hill side,
near Kangra, there is a most curious phenomenon, called
the Jewála Makki, or Fire-mouth. A subterranean
stream of gas having found vent from many crevices of
the mountain, and having been by some means set on
fire, perpetual flames are seen, which the Hindus look
on with great veneration. They have enclosed the
principal ones in a temple, which they will allow no one
to enter without taking off his shoes. The Governor-
General, however, lately visited it, and of course did
not take off his. Mr. Porter refused to do so, and told
the Priests that if he did they would represent it as an
act of homage to the idol, for so these jets of fire may
be termed.
It happens that Lieutenant Lake, who has charge of
these districts, rendered great service to the Brahmans
of the temple by restoring to them some revenues that
had been seized by another set of priests; when, there-
fore, Mr. Porter threatened to tell Lieutenant Lake that
they refused to admit him and his children with their
shoes, they at length consented to do so. He asked
them what right they had to shut up this work of God
that was free to all men on the mountain-side, and
offered to put out their God: upon which they earn-
estly begged him not to think of such a thing.
Perhaps you do not know that the Vedantic doctrine
is, that there is but one God, and that He should be
worshipped without images and anywhere, and that
people may eat anything, no matter by whom it is pre-
pared. They teach further, that everything is a mani-
festation of God, and is God. This Pantheism is
•
WORSHIPPING THE COLOURS.
313
exactly that of Pope's "Essay on Man," see-" All
are but parts of one stupendous whole, &c. ;" and they
say further, that it is better to worship Him through
the medium of visible beings than not all. Thus they
sink into the grossest idolatry, and worship anything in
everything.
Brahm, the supreme god, is said to sleep and wake
alternately; from him all the other gods proceed; but
after all they, as well as the whole of creation, are but
"Mya," or delusion.
That temple we saw at Benáres is, perhaps, the most
famous one in India of Siva, or the Destroyer, under
the name of Mahadeo.
The Hindu Sepahis commonly worship the colours of
their regiment, a thing which even many Christian com-
manding officers take no steps to prevent; but which
C. is determined shall never be done while the regi-
ment is under his command. You will find a very good
account of Hindu mythology in "Chambers's Useful
and Entertaining Tracts," under the head of “ Hindu
Superstitions.'
""
My husband was writing to Ceylon the other day,
and said to his Havildar-Major, a high caste Rájput,
"The Brahmans tell you that Ceylon is inhabited wholly
by demons (or déos), and that every one who goes there
is immediately devoured by them." The Havildar-Major
acknowledged this. "But there are many English
there, many troops, a British General, and a British
Governor, and I am thinking of buying some land there.
I am now writing to a great man in that island, and if
you have any particular friend among the Déos, I will
send your salam to him. I often eat grief on your
account and that of your countrymen, whom I see wor-
shipping idols; for there is but one God, who alone
should be worshipped."
The Havildar answered: "True, there is but one
God."
"Is it not lamentable then, that men should bow
down to images which they make themselves of wood
and stone?"
VOL. I.
P
•
314
((
ALEXANDER THE GREAT AND HIS TWO VAZIRS.
And mud," interjected the Havildar-Major.
"Your worthless Brahmans tell you these fables for
their own profit, and not for your good."
"True," said he, "they do for their own profit; for
the other day, when we gave a little feast to our
brethren of the 11th, they came among us and extracted
fifteen rupees from us, and then told us all the gods
were much pleased." And the Havildar-Major finished
with a little scornful laugh that spoke volumes.
The Mussalmans are very fond of speaking of Sikander
Padshah, i. e. Alexander the Great, and his two Vazirs,
Aristún and Aflatún (Aristotle and Plato), all of whom
they devoutly believe to have been good Muhammadans.
My husband was telling Abdulrahmán Khán of Lord
Ross's gigantic telescope, when he gravely replied, that
it was nothing to one which Aristotle made for Alex-
ander the Great, by which he could see all that passed
in the heavenly bodies so clearly, that he was enabled
to draw omens from them, and fix the proper days for
marching, &c. Imagine assigning to the stars the office
of Quartermaster-General of Alexander's army.
The result of this Muhammadan jumble of ideas was
a most diverting dream of my husband's. He thought
Plato offered to enlist with him, assuring him he was
only 100 years old. C. considered this rather passé, but
thinking he would still get some work out of him,
decided on taking him, because he was "so thoroughly
respectable."
November 11th.-C. has just received his arms which
he indented for six months ago. However, in conse-
quence of his vigorous remonstrances, he has obtained
a better description of muskets than either of the other
regiments except the Hill Corps.
Sunday, 14th.-While C. was at church, I heard a
hideous growling, yelling, squeaking, barking, and
screaming; I looked up and found that the dogs had
hunted a wild cat into the room. The bearer was
standing over them with a drawn sword, unable to hit
the cat for fear of killing the dogs, who presently pulled
down a large arm chair and a pile of books, and quickly
\
A GHUNS- MRS. G. LAWRENCE.
315
slew poor grimalkin. They are very useful in killing
rats and mice, of which we have a great many. The
same evening my husband saw a Ghuns (or bandicote
rat) come into the house; a frightful creature, more
like a small black pig without hair, with teeth half an
inch long; but it disappeared. It is very savage, with
coarse bristles on the back. It runs about grunting;
and a strong Scotch terrier has been know to die from
its bite.
The weather is now so cold, that as there are no
kennels, I have been obliged to have coats made for the
two dogs as well as for the cow, and they look more
ludicrous in these than you can well imagine. We find
warm clothing quite necessary, and many of the trees
are looking quite bare and wintry.
Mrs. George Lawrence has just passed through on
her way to join her husband, and is going with him to
Peshawur, which the Afgháns here seem to think rather
a hazardous step, on account of the unsettled state of
the country. C. vehemently remonstrated against her
going, but she laughs at his warnings.
Loodiana, November 20th, 1847.—Mr. Porter over-
heard a conversation between two of his servants about
the Jiwálá Mukkí, or burning mountain. The Chow-
kedar, like many Muhammadans, was inclined to the
Hindú superstition, and represented to the Khidmatgar
that Akbar the Great had conveyed a stream of water
over it, yet he could not put it out; then he fixed iron-
plates over it, still he could not put it out; adding,
"Don't you think there is something in it?" But the
Khidmatgar was obstinate, feeling convinced the whole
thing savoured of idolatry. I asked Mr. Porter if the
late war had done much in the way of opening the Pan-
jáb to the Gospel. He said "Everything;" previously
no British subject could cross the Satlej without the
permission of both Governments. Now, they may go
and preach where they please. An old Subádár, who
had served in Broadfoot's Sappers and Miners, recog-
nized C. the other morning as his corps was marching
into Loodiana, and came to see him after breakfast-
P 2
316
NEW BAZAR-BANKERS.
a fine old man with many medals, he has been in forty
battles and while speaking, pulled up his trousers to
show a wound on his brawny brown knee.
November 17th.-Drove to see a new Bazár which
the rich Máhájans (bankers) here have been building.
It consists of two short streets, leading into a square,
with a gateway at the end of each. All the houses and
shops are adorned with paintings, and even a small
Mosque, in the centre of the square, has submitted to
these marks of idolatry. The effect is very pretty,
like coloured mosaics on a white ground. A great
crowd of hairy Panjabís soon collected round the Buggy,
and a sleek Máhájan, with a little canary-coloured
turban, introduced himself as having known C. at
Kabul. Bankers are the same race everywhere; one
would think they had had a peculiar father and mother,
distinct from the universal progenitors of the human
race, for Mr. O. at Dresden, the C.'s at Rome, the fat
young Rothschild we met, a Máhájan at Loodiana or
Delhi, and I doubt not many a smooth merchant or
banker at home, have such a strong family likeness,
that you would take them for brothers in different cos-
tumes. They are all rather short, stout, smooth, shiny,
sleek, and comfortable looking, very clean and neat,
very polite and courteous, with not much to say.
There is a very simple and excellent contrivance used
here by carpenters for boring holes. It is a kind of
iron stiletto, and a bow with a loose string, which is
twisted twice round the handle of the former, and being
moved rapidly up and down the borer turns and goes
through the wood without any exertion.
A gentleman related the other day, that having killed
a man by pure accident when out shooting a short time
ago in the Jalander Doáb, he requested a Pancháyet
(or council of five arbitrators) to settle the amount of
compensation he ought to pay. They decided that
as he was a Sahib," he ought to give ten rupees; and
a Lambadar, or ruler of the village, told him privately,
that if he thought that exorbitant, he would try to get
it lessened.
'2
ELEPHANT AT WORK-THE LINES.
317
Early on the 19th, we went out on an elephant, which
the I.'s brought with them. It is a very nice creature.
I have fed her several times, and she now knows my
voice and comes after me when I call her. It is very
curious to see what steep places an elephant will go up
or down. C. desired the Mahout to make the elephant
knock down a wall for my edification. At first she did
not understand what was required of her, and made a
frightful growl or roar when the Mahout struck her,
but when she knew, she pushed down a piece of wall
about nine feet in height, and four broad, of unbaked
bricks, with the upper part of her trunk, as quietly and
gently as possible. Finding her so capable of the work,
C. led us to his own lines, where they made her demolish
some of the old huts to make room for the new ones,
thus saving the men a good deal of labour. We passed
through the lines, and I was much amused at the peep
I got of them. Many of the Hindu Sepáhis were pre-
paring their food, each man sitting in a little circle,
with a small rampart of earth two or three inches high
around it, within which himself and his bright brazen
vessels remain untouched and unpolluted.
.
It is curious to see a Hindu Sepáhi with the front of
his head shaved, twisting up his long black hair into a
knot. I want to see a Sikh's hair, but that is very
difficult, as I hear horrid reports of its never being
taken down; I hope "in public" is sous-entendu. Most
of the men seem to have Charpaís and good rezais or
quilts. I played chess with Abdulrahman Khán a little
time ago, and he would inevitably have been defeated,
when he suddenly found out it was very late, and feared
the game would last all night; so as it would doubtless
have horrified him to have been beaten by a lady, it
was best to agree with him and leave off the game.
The only difference in their manner of playing is, that
the pawns are not allowed to move two squares at first,
and the king of one party is placed opposite the queen
or vazir of the other, instead of the queen being always
on her own colour.
We had another ride on the elephant on Monday,
318
EVENING SCENE-AGHA MUHAMMAD.
and crossed the ford on the road to Filór. The very
barrenness of the scene gave a kind of interest to it,
for the boundless expanse of sand-the glowing tints
left by the setting sun-the immense full moon shining
into the water on one hand, and far away on the other,
the fires of some travellers, the line of the horizon all
around being almost unbroken save by a few stunted
trees, made quite a picture of the desert.
In some
parts great mounds are raised by the drifting of the
sand.
I have never told you of a most gentlemanly Afghán,
of the name of Agha Múhammad, whom we often see.
When Akbar besieged Fattih Jang, Shah Shujah's son
and successor, in the Bálá Hissár, the latter sent to
General Pollock for relief, which he promised to fur-
nish, but owing to Lord Ellenborough's orders not to
advance, failed to do so. Fattih Jang held out a week
or two beyond the time, and at last surrendered. Agha
Muhammad was confined with him in the city. Akbar
demanded his jewels, and threatened him with death if
they were not given up. Fattih Jang promised to have
them ready by the next day, but in the meantime
Agha Muhammad made a hole in the roof, scrambled
up himself, and drew the Shahzadeh up after him by
his turban. They then hid themselves in the house of
a friend, from whence Fattih Jang made his escape,
Agha Muhammad lending him 5,000 rupees. The
latter returned to Kabul afterwards with his father, to
settle their affairs; they were waylaid by Akbar's emis-
saries, the old man murdered, and the son severely
wounded. When he came back to Loodiana, he found
the Shahzadeh had spent all he had, like a prodigal,
and could not possibly pay him, so that he is, as you
may imagine, in a lamentable position.
Wednesday.-C. went to see the Shahzadeh Jam-
mur, who is on his way to Pesháwur. He offered to
come here, but C. prefers going to the Shahzadeh's, as
otherwise their visits would take up too much time.
Prince Jammur is very intelligent; he has been living
at Pesháwur, and gave exactly the same account of
!
*.
PRINCE JAMMUR AND SULTAN MUHAMMAD. 319
the state and prospects of things in that quarter as
Atta Muhammad (the Friar Tuck of Fisher's Horse)
did some time ago; and yet the Shahzadah and Rasal-
dar have never seen each other. They both consider
Peshawur and its environs as in a very unsettled state.
Súltan Muhammad, a brother of Dost Muhammad, and
a former protégé of Ranjit Sing's, is living there, and
is undoubtedly carrying on intrigues with his kinsfolk
the Barakzyes, though he pretends to be at feud with
them. As Prince Jammur said, "Why does he give
presents in money, shawls, &c., &c., to all the Afgháns
round about—if not for some private end of his own?"
C. thinks it is most imprudent to allow such a man to
reside at Pesháwur. The more I have seen of the
Afgháns, and the more I have heard what they say on
the whole of our affairs in 1841-42, the more I see
how accurate all C.'s views were. I am astonished at
the amount of influence he possesses with all ranks and
classes, and the universal esteem and deference they
show him. They all consult him, and strange to say,
follow his advice, speak freely and confidentially to
him, and show him honour in every way in their
power. The very Government seem to consider him as
a kind of Chief of the Afgháns, for not knowing what
to do with about 120 men who have been lately dis-
banded from Major Ferris's Police Battalion, and many
of whom had been with C. at Kabúl, the magistrates of
Banda sent them here, begging my husband to take
steps for distributing them among the regiments of the
Frontier Brigade. His own ranks being quite full, he
was obliged to send most of them on to Lahore, where
Colonel Lawrence will provide for them, and the rest
back to Amballa to enter one of the regiments there.
But this influence costs a good deal; for instance, so
many of these men being old comrades, C. had to give
a feast to the whole, which cost twenty rupees. Then
one of those who was going on to Lahore was so deeply
in debt to another who was returning to Amballa, that
we had to release his Jellalabad medal for him with ten
rupees more.
320
AFGHAN JEZAILCHIS.
One of these men, Eyun-u-Din, volunteered to carry
a letter to Jellalabad from Sir William Mac Naghten,
at a time when no Kassid could be bribed to make the
attempt. He succeeded in spite of great danger and
difficulty. He was a fine looking man, with a lilac
and silver turban, and red shawl wrapped about him.
Another of this gallant band, who has lost both feet,
is at Pesháwur, and one who has lost both hands and
feet, is in his native mountains. C. has applied for
pensions for both of them. Almost all the men who
came to-day had shaven heads, and one of the officers
speaking, as they all did, of the injustice of disbanding
them (when Lord Ellenborough had promised that as
a reward for their distinguished fidelity and services
in Afghánistan, they should be for ever retained in the
service of the Company), suddenly plucked off his cap
with the utmost vehemence, and thrusting his bald
head under C.'s very moustache, showed a scar that
would have split any other skull but an Afghán's, an
Irishman's, or a Highlander's, fore and aft; crying,
"Do you think I took that on my head for nothing?"
C. sent them all away pleased at what he had done and
was trying to do for them. He has a wonderful way of
managing them. That Afghán I told you of, whom he
cut down for mutiny, and who came to see him on his
way to join one of the other regiments, returned the
other day, having asked for his discharge in conse-
quence of not being promoted instanter. C. has more
than his complement, and can do nothing for him; so
he slapped his cheek, told him he was an ass, and then
took him by the shoulders, and shook him until his
head nearly fell off, all of which this sturdy mutinous
creature with battle-axe in hand took most placidly,
while the other Sepáhis laughed.
A Kashmirí Mussalmán, a gentleman by birth, came
a few days since to ask for assistance. He had been
nearly slain, and then driven out of the Panjáb during
the Sikh dominion for eating beef. C. told him that
too many came. He answered, "When a fountain is
known to send out sweet water, all men flock to it."
SCOLDING POWERS OF KASHMIRI WOMEN.
321
"But if the fountain is exhausted, what is to be done?"
To this he had no reply, but as he was really in need,
the fountain was obliged to give him a few drops.
To the Kashmirís generally I have an aversion. The
women certainly have very delicate, beautiful features;
but they are the most inveterate scolds I ever heard.
I have no comparison at all adequate to give any idea
of the clack-clack of a Kashmiri's tongue.
C. says
that the foulness and volubility of their abuse would
horrify a Billingsgate fishwoman; and as to the sound
(which we hear every evening when we pass their quar-
ter), perhaps a never-ceasing alarum would give the
best idea of it. They are beyond measure dirty in
their habits, and are full of low cunning and cleverness,
without anything manly or hearty in them.
}
P 3
322
CHAPTER X.
Persian Bible Bazar at Night Neglected Children Irregular
Cavalry — Marchings Colonel Lawrence Disregard of Caste
Araton-Wedding- Hydrophobia-Pressing Carts-Bridge Filor—
Persian Wheel-Vicious Elephant-Christian Children-Missionary
Family-A Fallen Prince-Grenadiers Strike Work-Repentance and
Industry-Fear of Death-Insolence of a European Officer-Brutality
of a Soldier-Screening-An Indian Lady-Want of Esprit de Corps
--Abdulrahman Khan-Imprisoned Havildar-Native Drawings-
Persian Poems-Hardihood of Afghans-Our Maimed Camp Followers
-Baptism of a Jew-Of Calcutta Girls-Mission at Allahabad—--
Superstition-Arab Horses—A Gipsy Shah-P-lummery-Christian
Officer-A Hindu's View of Death" IIcaven not a Stable"-Kindly
Feeling-Servant with Battle Axe.
C. LATELY sent Prince Shahpur a Persian Bible.
The New Testament was beautifully bound in morocco;
the Tourah, or Old Testament, was a very fine edition,
but in plain, strong half-binding. I therefore made
green velvet covers for the two volumes of it, and
embroidered the title in gold beads, with a little flower
on the other side, lining it inside with crimson silk.
It was thought very pretty, and my Munshí took the
greatest interest in superintending the shape of the
letters. I wrapped up the whole in a piece of crimson
China crape, which made a lovely cover.
I am never weary of driving through the Bazár, it is
so picturesque. About sunset all the cook-shops are in
full activity. Here you see one ladling out soup, and
for some reason of his own, he invaribly strikes a loud
bell as we pass, probably to invite us to partake of his
"savoury messes." Then, on the ground are innumer-
EVENING SCENE.
323
able Kabáb sellers, each one with rows of skewers on
which the bits of meat are filed, laid over a little char-
coal fire, which sends up a ruddy hue on the counte-
nances of the hungry group around, probably wild-
looking Afgháns, waiting till the meat is ready. A
little further on is a whole family sitting over a fire
which they have kindled in their solitary room, or
rather alcove,—for it is open to the street-
—or a poorer
group are trying to warm themselves with some blazing
straw; again, in a larger and carpeted apartment, are
some wealthy shopkeepers casting up and settling their
accounts; the Kotwal or Native Mayor sits in his little
chamber over the gate poring over papers; a seller of
dainties made of sugar and ghí, is squatted by the
roadside, with a light fixed to a stick stuck in the
ground, or else carries them on his head with a candle
fastened to his basket. Sometimes you sec a little dog
trained to light its master home by carrying a blazing
torch in its mouth. Then the Sáis snatches up a child
toddling across the horse's path, and whisks careless
passengers, bullocks, and donkeys out of the way with
a horse-towel.
At this season no one who can help it sleeps in the
open air, so that the streets are more passable than they
were. Then there is an elephant or two, a long string
of baggage camels, a Shahzadeh and his suite, or a
Missionary driving home in his buggy after his daily
preaching. At one place there is the cloth mart, each
seller carrying a few pieces on his shoulder or head.
Near them are the money changers seeming fast asleep,
but sure to open their eyes if any one come within reach
of their piles of copper; then there are the bullocks
lying in the midst of the road, an irregular horseman
careering about; all this is entertainment for the eye;
and for the ear there is a group of men on one side
singing softly in chorus; across the street an imper-
turbable Hindú shopkeeper, abused and assailed by some
furious client or rival; the red-and-yellow clothed, or
perhaps half-naked Sikhs, talking Parjabi, every other
word ending in "Sing;" the deep, guttural, harsh tones
324
TEACHING CHILDREN.
of Afgháns shouting Pushtú, or the incessant clack-
clack of a Kashmirí woman's tongue pouring out un-
imaginable maledictions on the luckless wight who has
incurred her displeasure; by all of which the strange-
ness and interest of the scene are of course much
heightened.
The D.'s have just passed through on their way to
Mattra, near Agra. We took tea with them on Thurs-
day, and I was much amused at a story Mrs. D. told
me of a little boy of three years old who was very fond
of her, but who, on seeing Major D. for the first time,
and being told that she was about to marry him, was
by no means equally charmed with him; so, going up
to her, he said very gravely-" Have you a father and
mother ?" Yes," answered she. "Well, then, take
my advice, don't marry that man, but go home and
dwell among your own people."
This is so preterna-
turally wise as to be quite "uncanny."
I am astonished at the way even rational and Chris-
tian people neglect the instruction of their young
children. You hardly ever meet a child under five or
six years old who knows anything of the Gospel, or
who can even speak English, and yet children far below
that age are clearly responsible before God. How then
can their mothers leave them in ignorance as great as
that of heathen children? It is also marvellous to see
the manner in which too many good managers deal with
their servants, always suspecting them and stopping
their pay for every offence; moreover, sometimes taking
them forcibly to places at a great distance from their
homes because it is inconvenient to the master or mis-
tress to get other domestics.
My little school gets on pretty well. I began to
think that William's youngest little boy Jacob, of four
years old, was inaccessible to instruction until I read
"Wilderspin on Infant Schools." I then determined
to try a more lively method of teaching, and speaking
of labour being the punishment of Adam's sin, I asked
him to describe different kinds of labour. First, what a
Sáis did; asked him about horses, what they were like,
IRREGULAR CAVALRY.
325
how they walked, and made him walk on all fours, and
rub down the Ayah's little boy as if he were a horse.
He laughed and began to look much brighter. We
then made both the children show how grain was sown
and reaped and ground. They agreed that it was right
that no one should cat who did not work, but for a long
time little Jacob insisted that tailors should not eat, and
he was only convinced of the propriety of their doing
so by our showing him that if tailors did not eat they
would die, and if they died, who would make warm
clothes for him?--for I must tell you that the native
Christian women do absolutely nothing, and even when
they are in debt, as too many of them are, they send
everything to be made up by tailors, whereas, if they
chose, everything might be made at home, as all their
garments are made of cotton, and very simply. I am
teaching my Ayah's little girl to work, and she succeeds
admirably.
December 1st, 1847.-This was a quiet, home-like
morning,—cloudy sky, watery sun, and bare trees; the
thermometer at 38° at sunrise: we saw the hills north
an east of this covered with snow. Captain Skinner's
regiment of Irregular Cavalry was here last week, and
C. having mentioned that he had not seen them, Cap-
tain S. very obligingly offered to have a field-day for
our benefit, which he accordingly did. It was most
picturesque to see from 500 to 600 Irregular Horse,
clothed in yellow, with scarlet turbans, long lances, red
and white pennons, matchlocks at their backs, and their
horses with scarlet and yellow saddle-cloths, performing
their manœuvres with the most admirable precision on
a barren sandy plain, the ground marked out by flags
and kept by mounted orderlies and camel sawárs
belonging to the regiment. The latter are most pictu-
resque, though ungainly creatures-the camels I mean.
Behind the whole was a dark stormy sky and the set-
ting sun. The Irregular Cavalry are so much superior
to the Regulars in the use of their weapons and the
management of their horses, that many officers, my
husband among the number, are strongly in favour of
326
CROSSING THE FORD.
having nothing but Irregulars. The men are of a
superior class with higher pay, find their own horses
and accoutrements, and only three officers (commandant,
second in command, and adjutant,) instead of twenty-
one or twenty-two to cach regiment. Their dress is
adapted to the climate, their saddles to keeping on, and
their spears to use, being light bamboo instead of heavy
ashen weapons.
Picked men were chosen from Her
Majesty's 16th Lancers, and a man taken at random out
of Skinner's Horse, and the result was that he slew
them over and over again (with blunt lances) without
their being able to touch him.
It
Captain Skinner, son of the well-known Colonel
Skinner, seems to have inherited his father's talent for
raising and disciplining cavalry. As I wished to see
his regiment on the march, he very courteously post-
poned their departure till sunrise. Accordingly we
drove to their camp on Saturday morning (27th). We
were too carly, so that we had time to look about.
was a very cold morning, and many fires were lit by the
men to warm themselves. Some were loading camels
or tattús (the hardy little ponies of the country), poor
women were collecting the manure in baskets to burn;
here sat a little child so enveloped in sackcloth or horse-
cloth, that nothing but its large black eyes were visible;
there was a refractory tattú making desperate efforts to
kick off its load; or a trooper just booting himself;
camp followers of all kinds making haste to be off; nó
tents standing but those of the European officers; an
elephant for the Commandant, laden with guns for
sporting, a dog cart, some fine horses, hackeries, &c.,
&c. The native Doctor, who had been a fellow-prisoner
of my husband's, soon made his appearance comfortably
encased in a large flowered and wadded cotton robe,
with his sword by his side; while his assistant, as was
due, had a much sorrier nag of half the size, and by
no means so gay a garb. The men soon began moving
to the front, where they formed into six divisions.
then drove on ahead to get a good view of them as
they passed the ford, the only pretty bit in Loodiana ;
We
COLONEL LAWRENCE-DISREGARD OF CASTE. 327
and truly we were rewarded for our trouble when they
came up, the top of their spears appearing first as they
mounted the little rise, and then the whole body
marching on to the sound of their kettle-drums, winding
round and descending again towards the ford, where the
morning sun gleamed on their ranks as they crossed the
bright blue water. As many as choose wear shields
slung at their backs. The irregular cavalry equip them-
selves, and of course are obliged to borrow money to do
so in the first instance. This regiment cost 50,000
rupees for which Captain Skinner is responsible, and
the men pay interest to the Native Banker at the rate
of twenty-five per cent. Captain S. wrote to represent
this, and to ask Government to lend them the money,
promising to repay it in two years with interest at
twelve per cent. The paternal answer was that he
might have 5000 rupees.
Colonel Lawrence has just called on his way to Cal-
cutta. C. accompanied him for some distance on his
journey, and he casually mentioned that he had only
been able to obtain one appointment in the Panjáb, and
that with immense difficulty. This shows how unjust
an impression appearances often make, for most people
have been remarking how well Colonel Lawrence had
provided for his brothers, whereas it has merely hap-
pened that Lord Hardinge thought fit to place them all
in the same country.
I must not forget to tell you of an instance of disre-
gard of caste in a Brahman Sepáhi which astonished
us all.
He was attacked late one night with violent
cholic, from eating bad flour. C. gave him some medi-
cine which he took without the smallest difficulty out
of our spoon, though it was mixed by us in water from
our bottles, drawn by a Mussalmán Bhisti, in a goat's
skin; so that the whole genealogy of it was unclean in
his eyes. Whether his liberality arose from the cogent
argument of pain, or from serving in our ranks, I know
not, but I am happy to say he was cured.
December, 1847.-Mr. Aratoon, the Armenian mer-
chant, called the other day. The Armenians in India,
328
WEDDING.
that I have seen, dress like Europeans, which is most
unbecoming to them. They generally have very Jewish
physiognomies. Aratoon is a very enterprising man,
and is exerting himself to get steam communication
established between Lahore, Firozepúr and Karrachi
and Bombay, a thing much needed.
Went to Brigadier E.'s daughter's wedding. There
was not an unmarried lady present (there is only one
at the station), and the bridesmaids were three little
girls under six years old. The number and brilliancy
of the uniforms (for every one appears in full dress at a
wedding) compensates in some measure for the absence
of young ladies, especially as most of the ladies you
meet in India are young. The bride looked very pretty.
Mrs. was there; she is generally received and
reviled. I think people should content themselves with
doing either the one or the other. To omit both would
he best. Captain Q., in speaking of hydrophobia, told
me of an instance where the bearer of a lady of his
acquaintance was bitten. Some days after, she was
sitting working, when she heard a slight noise, and
beheld the poor bearer with his hands joined like an old
knight on a monument (their usual attitude in speaking
to a superior). He said he felt he was going mad, and
had come to make salam. About an hour or two after-
wards he was discovered in an outhouse, with his head
thrust into a heap of lime, quite dead. Major F. told
us a frightful history of a mad jackall, which came to the
tent of his sister, and dragged the Ayah up and down
the tent by the hair of her head. It then ran away,
but returned again and again during the night, biting
at every one it came near. Major F. himself, finding
there was no other chance of sleep, got into a Palkí
and shut the doors. It bit one poor man on the nose
who afterwards died, but the Ayah suffered no injury
except fright.
Tuesday, December 14.-Started about eight o'clock
for Filór on the Satlej, to spend the day with Captain
and Mrs. Phillips. It is about nine miles off. It was a
beautiful bright, cold morning, and the road was thronged
FILOR-PERSIAN WHEEL.
329
with passengers, native officers riding, some Sahib's
baggage guarded by Sepáhis, with goats and kids tied
to the carts, and cages of quacking ducks and guinea-
fowls surmounting them; for people march with all their
worldly goods, animate and inanimate. We came upon
an immense train of bullock-carts, the owners of which
all shouted out their grief at having been pressed and
obliged to bring the baggage of one of the regiments.
from Mirath. They get a fair price for the work, but
this is the busy season in the fields; and moreover, no
man, not even a patient Hindu, likes to be torn away
from his own proper work and applied to some other
purpose, as if he were a thing and not a person. We
met our second buggy horse (such a gallant little Arab
mare) at a place by the roadside, where some Faqírs
had made themselves a hut, and offered the comfort of
a clean mat, a pipe, and a fire made in a hole, with
manure for fuel, to any passing traveller, who gladly
requited them with a few pice. At this season the
Satlej is low; we forded a great part of it, and crossed
the rest by the most absurd looking bridge of boats I
ever beheld. The boats are like very large punts with
most curious sterns, about eight feet out of the water.
In each boat is a hut, in each hut are some men, so
that it is a populous bridge; the whole thickly overlaid
with straw. Captain Phillips's house is close to the
river, which forms a kind of promontory at the spot,
and behind it is the picturesque Fort of Filór. We
found them awaiting us. Their house is a pretty native
one with very thick walls, and the rooms full of niches,
that are both pretty and convenient. They led us to
the garden, an excellent one, with a very fine well,
from which the water is drawn by a Persian wheel. Do
you know what that is? At a little distance from the
well is a horizontal wheel, perhaps ten feet from the
ground, this has cogs, and being turned by a yoke of
oxen, catches the cogs of a perpendicular wheel placed
on one side of it and turns that. This wheel has ano-
ther parallel to it, and turned at the same time, just
above the deep well. Over this third wheel is a circular
330
RIDING ON A PAD.
band of ropes fashioned like a ladder, to every step of
which a small water-pot is fastened. The lower end of
this band is below the water; so that all the pots get
filled, and as they reach the top are emptied into a
trough, which coveys the water into the fountains, and
from thence into the garden. After breakfast and
prayers we returned to the garden to see the fountains
play.
The former owner of the place built a pretty little
summer-house or kiosk, open on all sides, where we sat.
We saw also the Taikhana, or underground apartment
for the hot weather, and after some time spent in the
house we mounted an elephant and took a ride before
dinner. It was the first time I had ridden on a pad,
which is much like a mattress strapped on the elephant's
back, with a little board on each side for the feet. We
were obliged to hold on by the ropes, at the risk of
getting our fingers pinched if the elephant chose to puff
himself out, but it was very sociable and pleasant. Some-
times an elephant takes it into his head to get rid of
his load, which he does by swelling himself out until
he bursts the ropes and girths, for he cannot reach any
one on his back with his trunk. This happened to the
E.'s not long ago. They were riding a vicious animal,
who suddenly began to roar, puff, and shake himself
furiously. Colonel and Mrs. E. were landed somehow
or other, when their daughter, finding that the elephant
would not kneel, and that the howdah was already half
off, very nimbly jumped from his back and alighted
safe and sound. I think some one caught her. Filór
is prospering under our rule. The roads are certainly
much better, and the soil firmer than at Loodiana.
Had a most agreeable day; I was much pleased with
my first visit to the Panjab, and first sight of the Satlej.
It was a lovely moonlight nignt though bitterly cold. I
saw a most curious equipage the other day at the wed-
ding, a double-bodied phacton drawn by two camels,
with a rider on cach, and gay red and green saddle-
cloths. They are very swift, and much more suited to
this sandy soil than horses arc.
IGNORANCE OF CHRISTIAN CHILDREN.
331
December 23rd, 1847.-A friend having left his boys
in my charge for a month, I have taught them in my
little school. It sometimes makes my heart ache to
hear the answers given by them and by the Catechist
children. They really know less than those of the
Ayahs. For instance, they all maintained that Jesus
was not the Son of God, only the Son of Man, except
a little boy of the sweeper caste, who has only been here.
three or four days, and who, therefore, must have learnt
the Divinity of our Lord elsewhere. The same day all
these so-called Christian children said that the only
punishment of sin was the death of the body, the little
We
Mehter, as before, answering that it was hell.
have had the greatest difficulty to persuade them that
they are sinners, all of them denying it stoutly; and
yet two of them are past ten years old, and one has
learned part of the shorter Catechism, though, of course,
just like a parrot would. The boys knew no Grace
before or after Meat, nor the Ten Commandments; the
little one knew no prayer whatever, and both are en-
tirely ignorant of Scripture History, knew nothing even
of Noah, Abraham, or Isaac. The eldest said that the
soul became "mud" when we died. They have been
allowed to run wild, and have been almost entirely with
a very bigotted Muhammadan Bearer, and who has put
many false ideas into their minds.
To-day they all spoke with great contempt of idols,
and said they were nothing but bits of paper and
bamboo that could do nothing, so we endeavoured to
show them that it is a great sin to give the honour due
to Almighty God to such things. Our friend's and the
Catechist's children all declared that angels were mor-
tal, and the eldest boy added that the devil would die
some day. My Ayah's little girl Dhannú answered
rightly, and afterwards related the whole history of the
Temptation and Fall perfectly with every minute par-
ticular, while the others knew scarcely anything about
it. While I am speaking of children, I must tell you
of a little Sunday School child in America, who was
asked what she thought the stars were. She said they
332
A FALLEN PRINCE.
were holes to let the glory through. We have been,
and still are, very anxious about the Newtons' eldest
boy of ten years old. He is suffering from fever, a
kind of typhus, and all the medicines given him by the
Doctor do him no good. I sat with Mrs. Newton in
his room on Sunday evening, and read to him a little.
Mrs. Newton has charge of a poor little sick child of
three years old, a "mitherless bairn," who I fear is
dying. I cannot describe the tenderness with which
both she and Mr. Newton watch over it, while its
father, a young officer in the Jallander, has never been
to see it, and hardly inquires after it. C. found Mr.
Newton busy at his desk, and carefully holding the
poor sick little thing on one arm. I read to Johnnie,
and he was much pleased. Mrs. Newton is indeed
a wise Christian mother. I was stroking Johnnie's hot
forehead with my cold hands, and said to him, "Is it
not a great comfort, dear, that even a little illness is
sent for some good reason?” She quickly answered,
"Johnnie has not only a little illness, but a dangerous
fever, and he knows it: I always think it right that he
should know the truth." She told me afterwards that
she had asked him if he had ever thought it possible
he might not recover? "He said he had."
asked him how he felt in the prospect of death?
said, "Sometimes I feel quite ready to die, and some-
times I feel afraid." Every one is interested about him.
She
He
The old Shahzadeh Nazzar, son of Shah Zeman,
came to call the other day, having, as he said, heard so
many praises of my husband that he wished to make
his acquaintance. He is extremely gentlemanly and
much respected, especially on account of the resigna-
tion and quiet dignity with which he bears his adverse
fortune. He was once Governor of Herât, in the days
when his father was a mighty monarch who made India
tremble; and here he, who was then served with a
jewelled Kalián with princely state and pomp, smoked
a common bazár Chillam with great satisfaction, and
conversed amiably with my Munshí when C. was out of
the room.
GRENADIERS STRIKE WORK.
333
The other day my husband was not on parade, and
the Adjutant came to inform him that the men of the
Grenadier Company, who are building their lines, had
struck work. The Adjutant had found them sitting on
the ground, and on demanding the reason, they replied
that they had got no pay for many months, and there-
fore could not work. Mr. Gilbert threatened to beat
them if they did not, and on their proving refractory
he assailed some of them vigorously, and most of them
returned to their duty. On hearing this C. drove there
and told them to leave off; that as they were too fine
gentlemen to work, he should transfer the bricklayers,
whom he had hired to teach them how to make bricks
and to build, to the first company, which has distin-
guished itself by its zeal in pulling down the old huts.
In vain they offered to work-in vain the Subadar
Ram Sing represented that this would be punishing the
whole company for the fault of a few-in vain a day or
two afterwards they begged the Sergeant Major to
intercede for them, and Ram Sing came here himself
to get their pardon-C. was inexorable, and said that
when all the companies had finished, he would hire
Kulís at the expense of the Grenadier Company to
build their huts. The companies take it in rotation to
build their Lines, so that the Grenadiers ought to have
been finished before the first company began; but the
latter, who had greatly distinguished themselves by
their zeal in brickmaking, which they, to the astonish-
ment of all the Bengal officers, who say they cannot
get the men to make their own bricks, had volunteered
to do, and made much better and harder ones than
those which are made by labourers, thereby saving
their own pay-this said company, fired with emula-
tion, began to build up their walls in the most astonish-
ing manner, the Afgháns especially worked with fury.
One Afghán brings so many bricks on his head that he
stands as it were stupified, with his eyes starting for a
minute afterwards. I do like the Afgháns, they are so
full of energy.
I never saw an Afghán sit still when
there was anything to do, even though it might be no
خرا
334
FEAR OF DEATH.
business of his. Well, the Grenadiers fretted and fumed,
and vented their rage by privily bestowing a sound
beating on the ringleader, who had led them into this
scrape. The walls of the first company grew and grew,
until a good number of the Mussalmans of the Grena-
dier Company got leave to attend their great feast, the
Muharram, but instead of going to the feast they hired
bricklayers of their own and worked the whole time of
their leave with might and main. Upon this C. forgave
them, and the two companies are trying which can
build fastest.
December 23rd.-I asked Mrs. Rudolph to accom-
pany me to visit Hasan Khán's family, that she might
tell them something more of the Gospel. We found
that Leila's poor sister-in-law was dead. I therefore
begged Mrs. R. to ask Leila Bibí where they thought
the soul went to after death? She answered in a hur-
ried nervous manner, as if the subject were unplesant,
"How can we tell; some go to God, some to hell, who
can know ?" Mrs. R. then said, "You must, therefore,
fear death?" "Of course we do fear it." Mrs. Rudolph
with much gravity and earnestness replied "I and the
Mem Sahib do not fear it, because if God has given us
His Holy Spirit in our hearts there is no reason to
fear." She then spoke more with them, and read the
Parable of the Prodigal Son, and explained it: showed
them that envy, pride, and idleness were sins; that
God had committed some talent to each of us, whereof
we should have to give account-and that He was
willing to receive all who felt their sinfulness and came
to Him for pardon. They were much more attentive
and intelligent than we could have expected. After
we returned I could not get the poor sister-in-law out
of my thoughts. I liked the little I saw of her; she
seemed very gentle and sympathizing, and now she is
dead in her ignorance. She was the one I mentioned
as having listened so attentively to Mrs. Rudolph's
reading when Leila Bibí was ill.
December 24th.-We had Afghán visitors all day.
Murtiza Shah's son came. He is a most gentlemanly
INSOLENCE OF EUROPEANS.
youth both in appearance and manner.
335
Yet he related
an instance of coarse insolence he had lately met with,
which, I am sorry to say, is by no means rare on the
part of individuals (for they are neither men nor gen-
tlemen) towards natives. It happened only a few days
ago that in riding he met an elephant, and as his horse
always shies and makes a terrible fuss whenever he
meets one of these huge creatures, he turned into a
Compound close by until the elephant was past. The
occupant of the Bungalow, I am sorry to say an officer,
rushed out shouting, "Jao, jao" (Go, go), and actually
threw a stone at him. The young man said,
"Not
knowing whether he was drunk or only ignorant, I said.
nothing, and came away." He added: "I know you
and several other British gentlemen, and am therefore
aware that you are not all of the same colour (their
idiom to express being all of the same class, all alike),
but such acts make people without science detest the
British name.'
He also mentioned that some time
ago his father had an appointment with a gentleman,
and on his way to it passed through part of the British
camp. I think it was at Lahore. A European came up
and asked to see a book he had in his hand. Murtiza
Shah handed it to him, and in return he struck him on
the leg with a heavy bar of iron until the blood gushed
out.
دو
The gentleman Murtiza Shah was going to, was very
much annoyed, but nothing was done.
Now in these two cases both father and son were
well dressed, the latter well mounted, with a servant
after him, and both very gentlemanly in appearance,
so that the Quartermaster Sergeant calls the son
"the
young Prince;" so you may imagine how such people
would behave to a poor or ill dressed man. I asked C.
how it was that such an assault was not severely
punished. He said, I little knew the way in which
officers will screen their men in such cases.
An instance has just occurred here which will give
you a specimen of some Indian ladies. Major Mac
Donald has a headman who has superintended every-
336
WANT OF TRUE ESPRIT DE CORPS.
thing for him for many years; a most respectable,
quiet Brahman. Captain Q. had a most disreputable
Adjutant, a Mr. W. This person borrowed money of
Major Mac Donald's headman, and a short time since
Mrs. W. sent for the latter (unknown to Major M.)
and tried to get some more money from him, but find-
ing there was no hope of repayment, he declined;
whereupon Mrs. W.'s European female servant flew
upon him, tore the note of hand from him, and de-
stroyed it before his face, and then turned him out of
the house. The supposition is that she and her mis-
tress then incited her husdand, a Bombadier, to assault
the poor man; certain it is that he did so, and cruelly
maltreated him, put out one finger and broke another,
and injured him so much that he was brought home,
nearly insensible, on a Charpaí. The thing was so
glaring that the Bombadier was brought to a Court
Martial, whereat the prosecutor, as he was bound to do,
acted as counsel for the prisoner, brow-beating the
Native witnesses on behalf of the complainant, and at
length, by false swearing, it was asserted to the satis-
faction of the Court, that this quiet, elderly Native had
assaulted the huge, stout European soldier, who was
acquitted.
Major Macdonald, instead of reporting the behaviour
of the Adjutant's wife to the Commander-in-Chief, paid
the money himself, which I think a very great pity, as
such shameful conduct ought to be exposed. It appears
to me that esprit de corps would lead honourable men to
clear themselves and their regiment from any participa-
tion in such deeds, by vigorously punishing instead of
screening the guilty. This feeling makes me always
desire that a gentleman who has disgraced himself
should be doubly punished.
In the evening Abdulrahmán Khán came while we
were at dinner. We handed him a box of Kabul
grapes, which he ate, jauntily flinging the skins over
his shoulder against the wall, evidently thinking himself
the very mirror of good manners. It was done with
such simplicity that I could hardly forbear laughing.
NELSON'S CAUSE AND CURE OF INFIDELITY.
337
After dinner C. read with him the last chapters of
the Gospel of Luke. He had brought back the Testa-
ment my husband had given him, but had evidently not
read it all, for when he came to the part where the Jews
cried out, "Crucify him! crucify him!" he could not
forbear bursting out with a most emphatic exclamation
of "Kambacht!" ("You luckless wretches !") and as
he went on he uttered constantly an Arabic appellation
to the Most High, signifying, "Why are such crimes
permitted ?" When we related this to Mr. Janvier, he
told us that a compositor in their printing office ex-
claimed when he came to the same part, "It was from
gross jealousy that they put him to death!"
.
December 25th, 1847.-C. and I profited by his
holiday by taking a walk together. Such lovely bright
cold mornings and such brilliant starlight nights we
have now. Certainly at this time of year the climate
is the finest in the world.
L. called. C. lent him a most admirable book, the
best for popular use I have ever seen on the subject,
"Nelson's Cause and Cure of Infidelity:" you ought by
all means to get it for the reading-room at Sparrow's
Herne. C. told him of an infidel lawyer whom we read
of in one of the American papers. He had consented
to read the Scriptures, and the Presbyterian Elder who
had persuaded him to do so found him one day lost in
thought, and having stated what were his former preju-
dices against the moral law, the Elder asked him, " But
what do you think of it now?” “I have been looking,”
said the Infidel, "into the nature of that law. I have
been trying to see if I can add anything to it, or take
anything from it, so as to make it better. Sir, I cannot;
it is perfect.
"The first command directs us to make the Creator
the supreme object of our love and reverence: that is
right. If He be our Creator, Preserver, and Supreme
Benefactor, we ought to treat Him and none other as
such. The second forbids idolatry; that is certainly
right. The third forbids profaneness. The fourth fixes
a time for religious worship; if there be a God He
VOL. I.
338
PERFECTION OF THE MORAL LAW.
ought surely to be worshipped. It is suitable that
there should be an outward homage significant of our
inward regard. If God is to be worshipped it is proper
that some time should be set apart for that purpose, when
all may worship Him harmoniously, and without inter-
ruption. One day in seven is certainly not too much.
The fifth commandment defines the peculiar duties
arising from family relations. Injuries to our neighbour
are then classified by the moral law. They are divided
into offences against life, chastity, property, and
character; and," said he, applying a legal idea with
legal acuteness, "I notice that the greatest offence in
each class is expressly forbidden. Thus the greatest
injury to life is murder, to chastity adultery, to property
theft, and to character perjury. Now, the greatest
offence must include the less of the same kind: murder
must include every injury to life; adultery, every injury
to chastity and purity, and so of the rest. And the
moral code is closed and perfected by a command for-
bidding every improper desire in regard to our neigh-
bours. I have been thinking," he proceeded, "where
did Moses get that law? I have read history. The
Egyptians and adjacent nations were idolators; so were
the Greeks and Romans, and the wisest and best of the
Greeks and Romans never gave a code of morals like
this. Where did Moses get that law which surpasses
the wisdom and philosophy of the most enlightened
ages? He lived at a period comparatively barbarous ;
but he has given a law in which all the learning and
sagacity of subsequent ages have failed to detect a
flaw? WHERE DID HE GET IT? He could not have
soared so far above his age as to have devised it him-
self. I am satisfied where he obtained it. It came
down from heaven. I am convinced of the truth of
the religion of the Bible."
He continued until his death, about three years after,
a firm believer in the truth of Christianity, his views.
expanding and growing correct.
In the evening C. took me to the Lines, that I might
see his men building. I was struck by their quiet
BUILDING THE LINES.
339
behaviour. They make mortar by the simple process
of pouring water into a pit and trampling earth into it.
The bricks are merely sun dried. The 2nd company,
which has a Sikh at its head, have worked with more
zeal than discretion, and have in their haste built their
doorways quite crooked.
There are three barracks to a company, each con-
taining eight rooms or houses, in each of which there
are about three Sepáhis. The Native officers are allowed
a certain sum to build houses for themselves, according
to their rank, and when a regiment leaves the station,
it receives compensation for its lines, if they are in good
order.
I saw no women, and only one little child, besides a
baby of the Sergeant-Major's, a most beautiful, stout,
blooming Irish babe of seven months old, of which its
little Hindustani Ayah-for all the soldiers' wives have
one-seemed very proud. European children thrive
admirably here. I never saw finer babes.
A poor bombadier and his wife came to chapel last
Sunday, and to our house afterwards to tea. They
seem Christian people by what Captain C. told us of
them, yet there they are in that wretched barrack night
and day. He complained bitterly of the fearful tempta-
tions surrounding them; they have no place wherein to
pray, and can never join in prayer together, but when
they wish for uninterrupted communion with God they
take a walk by themselves. Is not this another proof
of the sin of herding men and women together, as they
do in barracks?
Captain C. dined with us. We talked of those far
awa'. Mr. Porter came in the evening. He mentioned
one reason why it is very improbable that our blessed
Lord was born in December, viz., that the Shepherds
were keeping watch over their flocks in the fields at
night, which is never done in winter; moreover, it is
not likely that a Government would have appointed the
taxing at a scason when travelling would have caused
so much suffering to the people, for on a long journey
they must constantly have slept in the open air.
Q 2
340
NATIVE DRAWINGS.
January 15th, 1847.-Sometime ago C. dispatched
a party to apprehend deserters. While so doing they
were laid hold of by the civil power and put into prison,
whereby five of the captured deserters escaped. C. has
had a long correspondence with the different authori-
ties on the subject, and sent word to his Havildar and
men to stay in prison until they were released in proper
form. This, however, they were not permitted to do,
the authorities finding themselves in a scrape thrust
them out. So a few days ago, I was astonished to see
a tall, fine looking Sikh take off his turban and place
it on the chair. I seized the opportunity of looking at
his long hair, which was turned up in a most compli-
cated manner and fastened by a red comb. I found
afterwards, that he did this to express the depths of dis-
honour into which he had fallen. Had he been con-
doled with, he would have been a discontented man for
the rest of his days, so C. told him impatiently to put on
his turban and depart: adding, "The matter is no
business of yours, the concern is mine;" he accordingly
went away, convinced of the truth of this assertion,
which, I think, it would have been next to impossible
to imprint on the mind of a John Bull, who had been
imprisoned for doing his duty. He never could have
borne to be thus violently deprived of his grievance.
The Sikhs, they say, are less superstitious than the
Hindus. I was astonished at the Granthi or priest of
the regiment bringing his sacred book the Granth* (a
title I can never hear without laughing) for me to sec,
thinking I might like to copy some of the pictures,
which I intend doing, though certainly not on account
of their beauty. All the natives profess to admire my
drawings very much whenever they get hold of them;
but I suspect that in bringing me their own pictures,
they have hopes of improving my style. Saiad Reza
brought us an illuminated volume of Persian poems the
other day, some of the pictures were indescribably
ludicrous. One poem was on the loves of Majnun and
Leila, another on those of Alexander the Great and
* Pronounced "Grunt."
HARDIHOOD OF AFGHANS.
341
Sherín. Alexander, whom they look upon as a devout
Mussalman, is represented bare footed, offering Sherín
a cup of water, while she rides astride on a punchy white
horse, and looks very sweetly at him. In the last pic-
ture, the devil in the form of an old woman with a
basket of cakes, tells him that Sherín is dead, where-
upon he knocks a great hole in his head with his fist
and kills himself. In another picture, Khosrocs, King
of Persia, is represented sitting with his love in a tent,
when a tiger comes in, which he forthwith slays by
thumping its head with his fist. Almost all the heroes
and heroines get tipsy by drinking wine together, so
you may judge of Persian refinement and Muhammadan
orthodoxy. By the way Mr. E. tells me that the Sikhs
are dreadfully given to drinking. Mr. E. and Major
MacDonald dined with us the other night, and were
speaking of the Afghán character, and saying how much
these wild people prefer Europeans to Hindustánís, for
whose soft character they have the greatest contempt.
Major MacDonald mentioned as an instance of this,
that a noted Afghán wrestler tried his skill with an
officer, who gave him a severe fall. When he got up
again, the officer said to him, "I am afraid I have hurt
you?"
"Do you take me for a Hindustání?" was the
indignant reply, and springing up in the air the wrest-
ler allowed himself to fall violently on his knees, which
were, in consequence, frightfully cut. "Do you take
me for a Hindústaní?" asked he again! Mr. E. told
us that last summer the authorities at Simla were beset
by a crowd of half-starved and maimed men, women
and children, who had all but perished in the snows of
Afghánistan. They cried for succour the men in
office said it was no business of theirs, and sent them
to and fro, until, wearied with the sigh of their misery,
they ordered the police to turn them out of Simla-and
these poor creatures, our own fellow subjects, who had
lost everything but life itself in our service, were driven
forth to perish. Mr. E. indignantly expressed his
opinion of such an action to Colonel who answered
coolly, "Why, what could be done?"-Done! why
,
342
DESTITUTE CAMP FOLLOWERS.
they might, should, and ought to have been provided
for at the expense of the Government; it was a sacred
debt, both of honour and justice, and if the Government
had made difficulties, why could not these men in high
office have helped them out of their own pockets? I
should feel it a disgrace and a sin, if a discharged soldier
or a poor camp-follower went from our door unpitied
and unrelieved, whether we could afford it or not.
By-the-by, many of the disbanded Afgháns of whom I
told you some time ago can get no employment though
they have been discharged without bounty, on the
understanding that, according to promise, they would
be provided for. Some of those who went on to Lahore,
finding no employment there, wrote a petition to my
husband, begging to be received into his regiment, but
this cannot be done as Major Mackeson opposes it, not
liking, I believe, the admixture of Afgháns and Sikhs.
Another set of them are waiting here. They came the
other morning to see how their affairs were going on;
such a fine set of men, each with his medal, and some
with two. C. told them nothing had been done, that
he had got no answer to his letters. "Well," said they,
our only dependence is on you-we cling to your
Lordship's skirt." "But," said my husband, "if you
pull too hard my Lordship's skirt will tear?" at which
little joke they all laughed.
(C
Now that we dine late, Abdulrahmán Khán often
occupies himself when he pays us evening visit, by say-
ing his prayers in the corner while we eat our soup.
One of our men died the other day; he was an only
child, and his poor old father, a venerable looking Sikh
peasant, came to receive his pay. It touched one to see
the desolate white-bearded man, but C. said kind things
to him, and gave him something to help him on his
journey home.
A poor Jew was baptized the last Sabbath in De-
cember. The Missionaries have known him for two or
three years
he was most anxious for baptism, and
professed his dependence on Christ alone, the Son of
God, for salvation, and as there was nothing to object
SUPERSTITION-ARAB HORSE.
343
to in his life, they thought it right to baptize him,
though they do not see the clear evidence that could
be desired of his conversion. In the evening he sat
opposite to me at the Lord's Table, and you may be
sure that we prayed for his union with Christ, the
Living Bread. I have also heard from Miss Laing that
seven of her orphan charge have been lately baptized in
Calcutta. Another Missionary and his wife have just
passed through, Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, on their way to
Sabáthu. Mr. Morrison preached an excellent sermon
on Sunday. Mr. Morrison called on us, and told me
of his pleasure at finding the orphans whom he had
received at Allalabad in 1838, now monitors, tutors,
and catechists, and some of them better Hebrew
scholars than himself. His voice grew thick as he said
that this repaid him for all his trials, which have been
very heavy. He mentioned having punished one of
these very boys for theft. He had taken some grain
from an ass. Mr. Morrison punished him in a very
original manner, by pouring the grain back into the
ass's trough, and compelling the boy to eat with his
long-eared companion until the whole was finished.
He never stole again. Mr. Morrison told me of some
curious superstitious fancies the natives have. They
think if you pass between two donkeys you will lose
your religion, but if you touch them both you will get
it back again, or keep it. It is accounted disgraceful
by most persons here to ride upon an ass. I have
ridden twice lately upon a pretty little Arab, Major
Ekins lent me; it is very gentle, but its paces, like
those of most Arabs, are short, and it goes very near
the ground. I prefer the high action of a good English
horse. The Arabs are very small, generally from four-
teen hands to fourteen hands two inches. They have
another peculiarity, when not rouzed they are the
most lazy creatures possible, they will fall half asleep
whenever they stand still, and make the greatest pos-
sible fuss about the smallest possible exertion. Even
with my weight, this little horse groans and sighs,
puffs out his nostrils whenever he comes to a sandy
344
A GIPSY KING.
place, as if he were quite overcome with fatigue, and
yet he could probably carry a person twice as heavy
sixty miles without stopping. He looks so meek and
sleek, with such a beautiful black eye, it is impossible
not to pet him.
We went to see the ice-pits, where the ice is made
for our summer consumption. An immense number
of shallow saucers of water are placed on beds of straw
and rubbish in an exposed situation, the water freezes,
and is collected in the morning and lodged in great
pits. The subscription is about seven or eight rupís
a share, that is to say, for two sírs a day during
the season; four sírs, or eight pounds, is a moderate
allowance.
On New-Year's Day, C. having ridden out, met a
camp of gipsies, of about forty persons. They were
very poor, so he told two of them to come to the house,
and he would give them something. He had no sooner
performed his promise, than Baedullah and Vazirá,
the bearer, entreated him not to have anything to do
with such people, for they were all necromancers and
could take any shape they pleased, and would certainly
come back next day as rich Mahajans. It seems they
call them bérupíá, or shapeless, i. e. having no proper
form of their own. They reminded him of what had
happened to Sir Claude Wade; and our Khánsáman,
who was ten years in Sir Claude's service, has just
related the story at full length. It seems Colonel Wade
was writing when he beheld a procession entering his
Compound, Chobdars running before, followed by a
splendid Palkí and an elephant, and His Majesty Shah
Shujah ul Mulk entered. Colonel Wade paid his com-
pliments, and was much surprised by the King asking
him for a present, but the latter explained, "I am not
the King, only I have taken his appearance, and I
really want some money." Sir Claude was so amazed
that he gave him some; whereupon, this second edition.
of Shah Shujah proceeded to the palace, where they
were so bewildered at seeing His Majesty's double,
that they also made him a present. He then went on
ONE WHO
66 GOES ABOUT DOING GOOD."
345
to Lahore, where Ranjit Sing was so astonished at
seeing his ill used old guest, that he, too, gave him a
gift; after which he went to Delhi, and Saiad Khán
does not know what became of him afterwards.
This grave old servant of ours often diverts me.
The other day I asked him the name of a pudding.
I could not at first catch the name; when I did, I said,
"Oh! flummery;" whereupon he corrected me, saying,
"Nehín (no) Mem Sahib, 'p-lummery.' So I have
been obliged to call it p-lummery ever since. In the
same way I always order a pu-lum pudding.
Another disbanded soldier came to us the other day,
an Afghán of Ferris's, Jezailchís, a very fine athletic
man, who had not eaten for three days. Certainly
some record ought to be made of Government promises,
that one Governor-General may fulfil those given by
his predecessor.
Monday, January 17th.-Mr. Janvier brought over
Capt. W., whom C. had known in Malacca, and who
is now a devoted Christian, and has a suitable helpmeet
in his wife, the daughter of Mr. Hill, an excellent
Missionary in Calcutta. Captain W. has for the last
seven or eight years studied the Scriptures in Urdú
and Hindúí, for the purpose of making himself useful
among the natives. He assembles his servants for
reading and prayer, morning and evening, distributes
tracts, and enters into conversation on religion whenever
he can make an opportunity. Good Major Wheeler
at Benáres openly preaches to the Sepáhis, but although
Captain W. does not do this, yet when he takes his
books, and goes to visit a village, the Sepáhis say,
"Let us follow our Padre, with his books, and hear
what he says." The Molewi of his corps has been
much oppressed by the other Mussulmans for the
interest he evinced in Christianity: he appears at pre-
sent to have gone back. The next morning, while
C. was busy inspecting the clothing of the regiment,
I walked out, and met Captain and Mrs. W. Some
of the boys of the Mission School were lounging about,
and Captain W. spoke to them. One of them said
Q 3
346
A HINDU SENTENCED TO DEATH.
it was true that Jesus was a Saviour, but he added,
"Ram is my Saviour." Captain W. asked him if
he knew what sort of person Ram was, and described
the wickedness of his character, asking if that were a
fit kind of Saviour: the boy acknowledged it was not.
Captain W. afterwards told me that the keeper of the
shrine at Fattihpur Sikri, a Mussalmán of good family,
assured him that he believed in Jesus as the Son of
God, and always prayed in his name. One day he was
present, when Captain W., at family worship, was
explaining the miracles of our Lord, and remarking
that none but God could do such wonders. The Mullah
said before them all, "That is quite true;" yet five
minutes afterwards Mrs. Williams found him with his
face to the west, going through the Muhammadan form
of prayers. She spoke to him most seriously, and the
only excuse he could make was, that "he was brought
up so." Captain W. mentioned an incident which
shows how useful it is to give away tracts. He was
speaking to a man whom he met by chance on the
subject of salvation, and was astonished at his know-
ledge. He asked how he came to know these things,
and the man told him that a Sáhib had given him.
a book, which he not only read himself, but which
his neighbours constantly came to his house to hear.
Mrs. W. also told me that when she used to translate
one of the tracts for children which abound at home, to
her little native school at Benáres, the children would
listen with the greatest interest and cry, "Oh, why
don't the people in England send us such little books,
we should like to read them just as much as the children
in England."
In the afternoon Captain W. went into the city, and
after one of the catechists had done speaking, addressed
the people himself. The next day, before starting, he
accompanied Mr. Janvier and Mr. Rudolph to visit a
Dhobí, who is to be hanged to-morrow for the murder
of his wife. She was unfaithful: he cut her throat,
and then delivered himself up to the kotwal, or native
magistrate. They found him perfectly callous and
ແ
""
HEAVEN IS NOT A STABLE.
347
unmoved. He said, "God put it into his heart to kill
his wife, so that if there were anything wrong in it, it
was not his fault: what did it signify whether he were
hanged to-morrow or not, he must die some day."
Mr. Rudolph plainly told him, "You will bitterly
regret to-morrow at this time not having listened to us
to-day;" but no impression could be made on this
wretched Hindu. He said, "If I have sinned I shall
atone for it to-morrow :" and thus he left the world, in
the full persuasion that he would be happy in the next.
Agha Muhammad told us a most excellent answer
that he had himself heard at Pesháwur. One day he
and his father were paying a visit to Abdul Sammad
Beg, that wretched Persian of whom you can see an
account in "Wolff's Book," and who was the principal
adviser of the tyrant of Bokhara, on the occasion of
Stoddart and Conolly's murder: some refugees of our
unfortunate Kabul force having also had their throats
publicly cut before the gates of the city by his orders.
This monster had a negro servant, a remarkably devout
Mussalmán, who never omitted the five prayers daily,
and was looked upon as a saint.
Abdul Sammad was telling his visitors what a heavenly
man this was, when the negro entered bearing a pipe.
His master said to him, "I was just saying what a
devout man you are, that you are sure to go to heaven:
tell me, what do you think of me? do you think I
shall?" The negro looked him full between the eyes
and answered gravely, "Heaven is not a stable," mean-
ing where swine and dogs and such as you may enter.
Agha Muhammad said that Abdul Sammad tried to
laugh, but evidently felt the rebuke.
In no other country is there such a gulf between the
different classes, in regard to kindly feeling and inter-
course as in England, and especially England Proper.
See the difference in Germany, for instance; the re-
spectful familiarity between officers and men in the
Prussian army. The more I see of other countries,
the more forcibly English exclusiveness strikes me as a
very bad national peculiarity. It is a thing wholly
348
AN OFFICER'S SERVANT.
unknown in the East, where servants and masters,
rich and poor, behave to each other much as I suppose
they did in patriarchal times.
The Náig of our guard reported last night that a
young Sepáhi having burnt his leg, the cold had in-
creased the pain to such a degree that he was unfit for
duty. He was quite a lad; Č. sent for him, gave him
a dose of arnica, and tied up his leg with cotton with
his own hands. The pain went off almost immediately:
we kept him here all the next day, that he might take
more arnica, and his father and mother, who live quite
near the Lines that they may look after their boy and
cook for him, brought him his dinner.
January 20th. This morning, as we were taking
our usual walk, we met an officer's servant with a
curious sort of weapon in his hand: it was a kind of
battle-axe with a long red handle. He told us he
carried it as a protection against thieves, and showed
us how he folded it in his garment, so that they cannot
tell, said he, what I have here. Fancy a gentleman's
servant carrying such a weapon in England?
349
CHAPTER XI.
Agha Muhammad's Wife-An Afghan Brother-Romanist Schools-
Want Supplied-The Roman Catholic Bishop-Fall of 50th Lines
- Delays in Clothing the Regiment "Nell". Attack on Agha
Muhammad · Earthquake at Peshawur-Pensions to Jezailchis
Superstition Security of Existence-Oppression in Kashmir-False
Alarm-Cheap Living-Government Education-Airs of some of the
Native Women Regiment on the March- Fewness of Sikhs -
Afghan's Anxiety to Learn-Azim-Controversy-A Proud Mullah-
False Inquirers-Ungentlemanly Conduct-Accident to an Officer-
Widow of Shah Zeman-Checroots-Music-Funeral in a Zenana-
Beauty-Two Zenanas-American Family-Abbas Khan's Rescue-
French Revolution-Fair at Hardwar-Money God-Morning Scene-
Poor Old Afghan-Visit from Shahzadeh's Wife.
JANUARY 29th.—Agha Múhammad came full of joy
to tell us, first, that he was likely to win his lawsuit
here, and secondly, what was still better, that his wife
and little brother had escaped from Afghánistan and
were now at Pesháwur, on their way thither. At first
he used the general term "my household," but then
added, confidentially, "that is, my wife," and his eye
glistened. He said, "Many of my people take more
than one wife, but I am sure that it is not only wicked
but foolish; there are always jealousies and heart-
burnings, and those who do so are sure to eat sorrow
for it at last."
Abdul Rahmán Khán came in last night. C. men-
tioned the fact of Abdulla Khán Achakzai having
buried his elder brother in the ground up to the neck,
tied a rope round his throat, fastened a horse to the
other end of it, and drove the animal round and round
350
ROMANIST SCHOOLS.
until his brother expired. Abdul Rahmán could not
deny the fact, so he uttered two or three groans, and
then betook himself to his prayers in the corner of the
room. My naughty little dog no sooner saw this, than
he must needs go curiously prying into his performances
-peering into his face and distracting the pious Mus-
salmán with his unorthodox attentions, and it was only
by constant feeding I could keep him away. The
Hindustanís are rather fond of dogs, the Hindus very
much so; but the Afgháns have a true Mussláman
sense of their uncleanness.
As a sign of the times, I may mention that the
"Dehli Gazette" the other day contained advertise-
ments from no less than five different Romanist schools,*
for boys or girls, at Agra and Massurí. In one a
pledge is given that the religion of Protestant pupils
will not be interfered with, but that "they will be
instructed in religion as far as possible without touching
on those points on which Catholics and Protestants
differ." Louisa Sylvester told me that when she was
in the Convent of Agra, most of the children, herself
included, were ready to become Roman Catholics, partly
to escape punishment, and partly because the nuns gave
them such descriptions of the glories of heaven and of
the happiness of those virgins (meaning themselves),
who should follow the Lamb whithersoever He goeth,
that they longed to become nuns too.
They were most carefully instructed in all the peculiar
dogmas of Rome; Louisa has them all at her finger's
end. The priests who visit the convent daily are all
young, and all foreigners, except one. The Bishop is
middle-aged—an Italian: you may judge of his charac-
* The Society for Promoting Female Education in the East are about
to open a school for the children of officers and others at Missouri,
so as to give a thorough and Christian education in a good climate to
those who cannot afford to send their daughters home. Subscriptions
are received by Miss Webb, Honorary Secretary, 15, Shaftesbury Crescent,
Pimlico. Another most valuable institution is the Female Normal
School in Calcutta, for training teachers of all castes and complexions.
Particulars can be obtained from the Venerable the Archdeacon of
Calcutta.
FALL OF THE 50TH BARRACKS.
351
ter by what Louisa related to me. One of the children
happened to be alone with him in the parlour of the
Convent, for the nuns are in the habit of complaining
to the Bishop of any child who commits a fault, which
all the pupils greatly fear, although he always inter-
cedes for them, and gets their punishment remitted.
The nuns had served wine to the Bishop, who had
taken too much, and, therefore, said divers improper
things to this poor child, and gave her wine to drink.
Her companions soon found this out, and she told them
what the Bishop had said to her, and that he had desired
her by no means to tell the nuns. None of the children
dared to mention anything of this circumstance, for the
nuns told them that the Bishop was in the place of God,
and that it was a great sin to say anything against a
priest.
A Bombadier's wife has been telling me much of
Captain C.'s kindness to the sick. I find she was in
the barracks of the 50th at the time they fell down last
year. She and some other women had been sent up to
join their husbands after the Satlej campaign. They
arrived at Loodiana I think in June. There was no
place for them to go to, and for some days they lived
in their hackeries in the midst of the hot winds; at
last they were housed, and some were sent to the 50th
lines. The very night they got into their new quarters
the barracks fell, and their end was the only portion.
that remained standing. They had been obliged to
have a guard of Sepahis to protect them from the inso-
lence of the British soldiers, some of whom being in-
toxicated, had endeavoured to force their way into the
women's quarters. All their guard were killed except
one, a young Havildar, who had kindly gone to fetch´a
light for one of the poor women whose child was just
dying. He was in the act of giving them this light
when all the rest of the building fell, and thus owed his
life to this act of kindness.
Mrs. Janvier and I went to see Hasan Khán's wives
the other day. They were full of the execution which
* Carts.
17
352
وو
NEL -ATTACK ON AGHA MUHAMMAD.
took place lately, and thought it very wrong to hang a
man for such a cause, saying that in their country a
man had a right to kill an unfaithful wife, and besides,
he was 66
so young." I could not help thinking there
was much excuse for him.
February 15th, 1848.-Johnnie Newton, after being
almost given over is, we trust, recovering. We have
been walking daily of late, for it has been too cold to
drive in the evening. The men have got their great
coats just as they were beginning to die from exposure
to the cold with insufficient clothing. A hundred are
still waiting for their arms, and have been so since
November, for want of workmen to make and alter
their belts, pouches, &c. Just imagine the consequences
if the regiment had been needed for active service. The
arms were indented for last May. My husband applied
to Government for information as to what clothing he
was to indent for, and whom he was to get it from, and
did not receive an answer for months afterwards, and,
therefore, could not indent until late in the autumn, and
the men are nine months in arrears of pay. I was
amused at seeing a stout Sikh Havildar, with a magni-
ficent beard, sitting working at something close to my
tailor. Bow killed his fourteenth wild cat the other
day, and one evening on going to bed I found a small
figure in a little red coat lying in the very middle of the
bed with its head on the pillow and its feet stretched
out straight like a child. This was "Nel," who had
deposited himself there, and when I spoke to him,
merely opened his eyes and shut them again very tight,
wagging his tail most consciously. It is the queerest
of doggies.
I have heard no stories for a long while except one
from Agha Muhammad, who gave us an account of the
attack upon his father and himself at Kabul. They
went back to settle their affairs, and received promises
of safety from Akbar Khán. They were attacked by
armed men just as they were leaving the mountain pass
of Lattáband or Rah-i-Kachanár, and entering Butkhák;
the father was cut to pieces, one brother severely
·
EARTHQUAKE AT PESHAWUR.
353
wounded, and the other, Agha Múhammad himself, left
for dead. They had slain three of their assailants, and
were now stripped and left in the snow. Their servants,
who had preceded them, came the following morning to
look for their bodies. They found the two brothers still
breathing, snow having fallen in the night and covered
them from the piercing air. They were brought
secretly into Kabul, and hid in the house of Akbar
Khán's own Názir, who tended them most carefully,
and invariably reported to Akbar's messengers, who
came to make anything but kindly inquiries after them,
that they were at the point of death. When suffi-
ciently recovered he conveyed them away into Kohistan,
from whence Agha Muhammad got to Loodiana.
February 22nd.-Major Mackeson has been en-
camped here for some days. He is a tall handsome
man; and has what that affected creature, Disraeli,
calls "a very imposing presence." Though very shy
in ladies' society, he can talk well, and we have had
very lively evenings when he has been with us. Yester-
day he gave us an account of the earthquake at
Pesháwur, at the time the walls of Jellálábad were
thrown down. He and about twenty others were
sitting at breakfast in a centre room, when they
saw the walls rock to and fro and the ground heave.
They all rushed towards the door to gain the stairs.
It was necessary to take two turns, and while they
were fumbling about, Major M. said "he was ashamed.
to confess that he, being master of the house, and
knowing the way, got out first, the others all tumbl-
ing after him down the steps." They then found.
themselves in a court surrounded by high walls, and all
crowded together in the very centre to avoid the walls,
should they come down. Some one cried out, "Where's
the General?" and it was evident that General Pollock,
who had been writing in an inner room, was not among
them.
Sir Richmond Shakespeare gallantly made a rush at
the stairs, and was about to enter the house while it
was still rocking, when the General appeared by another
354
MAIMED JEZAILCHIS PENSIONED.
door, having quietly come down a different flight of
steps. It was afterwards found that a beam had fallen,
crushing the table at which he was writing and part of
his chair, so that had he been a moment later he must
have perished. Major F. was out riding at that very
time, and had just thrown the reins on his horse's neck
to allow him to drink at one of the aqueducts near
Pesháwur, when the water suddenly dashed up in the
horse's face, and the animal began to tremble all over.
Major Mackeson was describing part of the country to
the north of the Jélum, which, seen from a height, ist
so shapeless and barren, so intersected and re-intersected
with deep ravines, that he said it gave one an idea of
chaos. It is the same part over which the force was
passing on their return from Afghánistan, when C. took
up a poor Irish horse artilleryman who had been badly
wounded, a fellow prisoner, of the name of Keane, or
Kane, as he called it himself, to help him across a stream.
As they were struggling through it, he said very naïvely,
"Och, sir, this is a very conthrairy country."
The new Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie, has done
a deed which exalts him greatly in our opinions. C.
applied some time ago for pensions for some of his
maimed and wounded Jezailchis. He was desired to
state what pension he thought suitable, and named ten
or twelve rupees a month for Kajjír and Kabbír, the
former of whom lost both hands and feet, and the latter
both legs up to the knees by the frost, and seven or eight
for Múhammad Khán, Gúlfraz, and Gúlnúr, all of whom
have lost a portion of their toes. "The Governor-
General has granted this, authorized my husband to
pay the pensions at once, and commended him for
bringing the case to the notice of Government." Gúl-
núr is the one who came down a little while ago from
Peshawur to see my husband, and Gúlfraz, who was in
the Banda Police Battalion, is going with Muhammad
Khán to live among their own people in the neighbour-
hood of Pesháwur. Muhammad Khán amused me very
much the other evening by coming to report formally
that he had met Major Mackeson, who had inquired
SUPERSTITION-SECURITY.
355
his name, what he was doing, &c.; he had answered all
his inquiries cautiously, stating that C. had "nourished
him very considerably," and then came to reveal the
matter, being evidently quite unable to fathom the
motive of these questions, and determined, with the
characteristic caution and suspiciousness of his country-
men, that his old leader should not be circumvented
through any fault of his. We have just heard, to our
great regret, that poor Kajjír is dead. Delay of justice
is immediate injustice.
I met with a curious instance of superstition the other
day. Louisa Sylvester wished very much to go to see a
burial-ground not far off, but nothing could induce
Mrs. Rudolph's Ayah to go with her, lest the dead
might arise and lay hold of her. Louisa then took Mrs.
Newton's baby, little Francis, and said she would go
with him, but Mrs. Newton's Ayah flew to save the
child, and said it would never do to take him, for his
bearer had been putting perfumes upon him, and that
would attract the ghosts. In short not one of the four
Ayahs in the compound could be persuaded to venture
except my little woman.
We are far from the security of European existence.
A poor Sáis here stole some radishes out of a garden.
He put them in a little pot, and was stooping down to
wash them when, as it is supposed, the owner of the
garden came behind him, and with one blow severed his
head from his body. It made one's heart ache to hear
of it.
Talking of superior security, however, Major Macke-
son told me a Persian story last night of a party of
pleasure going in a boat, whose enjoyment was quite
marred by the incessant crying of a child whom they
had brought with them. One of them proposed putting
him into the water, which was done, and after he had
been thoroughly ducked, he was so convinced of the
superior safety of the boat that he became quite quiet
and contented.
This was on Carlyle's principle, an excellent one to
act upon." Fancy that thou deservest to be hanged
!
356
TALBOT-TYPES-EXPENSE OF LIVING.
(as is most likely), thou wilt feel it happiness to be only
shot."
I have been working hard at Talbot-types, and have
made one of a camel's carriage-it is really very pretty.
The Government is extremely dissatisfied with Gulab
Sing's oppression of his unfortunate subjects, and one
of Lord Hardinge's last acts was to write a letter to
the Maharajah (the contents of which, if known, would
throw the whole of Kashmir into insurrection) saying
that if he did not mend his behaviour, the British would
leave him to shift for himself.
Sirfraz Khán came here the other day, bringing a
beautiful emerald ring as a present to me from the
Shahzadeh Shakpúr. It was such a fine one, about a
third of an inch square, that it cost me a little pain to
know it was impossible to accept it; while at the same
time I should have grieved to take so valuable a thing
from the poor young Prince, who can ill afford to be so
generous.
March 3rd and 4th.-My husband was occupied all
the morning in paying his men in the verandali. The
whole house was surrounded by them, and the sweet-
meat makers had the audacity to come close by, and
tempt the poor young Sepáhis with great trays of
Mitai. One of our Sáises assured us that a man may
have half a seer, i. e. a pound of meat and a seer of
flour every day for three rupees monthly. Sepáhi's
pay is seven rupees a month. The whole expense of
the regiment is about 10,000 rupeees monthly. This
is considered a very expensive place. Dr. Walker told
us of a place near Dacca, where everything is or was so
cheap, that Kawris (little shells, forty-eight of which
go to a pie, which last is about one-third of a penny)
were the most useful coins you could have. He had
great difficulty in getting change for one rupee; and a
beggar to whom they gave some copper came and
begged to have it exchanged for cowries. I think they
got ten or twelve fowls for the rupee (I get five). It was
somewhere in that neighbourhood that Mrs. Eckford
told me good cows are to be had for three rupees.
GOVERNMENT EDUCATION.
357
There have been divers remarks in the papers lately, on
the small results of the Government scheme of educa-
tion. At present history and belles lettres are the two
objects to which the attention of the students is chiefly
directed; and history, more as a matter of memory
than of philosopy. They read Bacon's "Novum Or-
ganum," but that is the only work I know of, of a deep
character.* Their education strikes me as a feminine
one, and receiving no religious instruction, they are
deprived of the best part of English female education,
of that which does more to strengthen and form the
character than any other. Dr. Duff's remarks on the
plan of education pursued in the Hindú College, in a
recent number of the "Missionary Record," are most
true. There is nothing to strengthen or expand the
mind; the memory and taste are cultivated, mais voilà
tout.
There is no excuse for not introducing Christian
instruction, for the education given is entirely contrary
to all the native prejudices-it deprives the pupils of
their superstitions, and leaves them a prey to infidelity.
Thus the Government denies them bread, takes away
their loaves of stone, and gives them a serpent. The
objections made to Christian education always rest on
the ostensible basis of danger in meddling with the
religion of the natives; but I suppose even an unbeliever
would hardly maintain, that there was anything wrong
or dangerous in giving the knowledge of the Gospel
to those who professed no religion at all. Now the
Government schools entirely overthrow Hinduism, and
thus having done all the dangerous part of the work,
they carefully abstain from that which they themselves
must acknowledge to be beneficial. They destroy but
will not build.
Query, is there any instance of a Heathen, Múham-
* Whately's "Logic" and Abercrombie's "Mental and Moral Phi-
losophy," have been lately introduced; I believe, under Mr. Bethune's
regime. Adam Smith, on the "Moral Sentiments," was previously con-
sidered as the ethical work best adapted to the young indus, "because
it excludes religion."
358
GOVERNMENT EDUCATION MAKES SCEPTICS.
madan, or Popish Government abstaining from all
interference with the religion of a conquered people?
If they are not afraid to introduce error, why should
we be afraid to introduce truth.* If the Government
professes Christianity, let them not support Heathen
schools. Let them as Christians make grants towards
all Christian schools, according to the number of their
pupils. Let all offices and employments be open to
Christians, Mussalmans, and Hindús, irrespective of
religion; let all have the opportunity of embracing
Christianity, but let none be either rewarded or
punished for doing so.
Many of the girls from the Orphan School, though
brought up most simply, are no sooner married than
they must needs perch themselves up on chairs, and
give themselves all the airs of ladies. When Mrs.
Janvier's baby was baptized in our house, one girl,
about two years married, came to the prayer meeting,
and immediately took her seat in an arm chair at the
top of the table. Golak Náth, the Brahman minister,
coming in soon after, was about meekly to sit down on
the floor with the rest of the Natives, when my husband
made him come to the table. One was a minister, a
Brahman by birth, and highly educated; the other was
an ignorant, stupid, low caste woman, without a single
claim to distinction. The contrast in their behaviour
struck me forcibly. Another of these newly married
orphans called lately on Mrs. Newton, who gave her
some plates: she, who had all her life been accustomed
to do everything for herself, now said that she could not
* There never was a nation, except professedly Christian and Pro-
testant ones, which did not consider religion as the most essential part of
education. English education of any sort, even mere geography and
chronology, overthrows the Hindu creed. Why should we not at least
offer something better in the place of that we destroy? That we do
destroy is granted by Mr. Kerr, Principal of the Hindu College, who
thus writes-"It is sometimes said that the education we give makes
our students sceptical. It does make them sceptical-sceptical of all
those degrading ideas with which the notion of a Deity is associated in
Hindu minds. ("A Review of Public Instruction in the Bengal Presi-
dency from 1835 to 1851," by J. Kerr, M.A.)
AIRS OF SOME NATIVE WOMEN.
359
carry them (her hut being about 100 yards distant),
but would send her servant for them. Mrs. Newton
asked how she had become so proud? To which she
replied, that her husband said he did not wish her to
do anything but that she should have a tailor and
servants. She ought to be told that such pride and
sloth were the greatest disgrace to a Christian woman.
The consequence is, that most of the teachers and
their wives are in debt, the women idle, and few of
them seem to have the smallest idea of labouring with
their hands, that they may have to give to him that
needeth.
They require to be taught household knowledge, to
be neat, to make their own clothes, to bring up their
children well, and to do good among their heathen
neighbours. But these things could be better taught
by those of their own sex than by the Missionaries, who
are already overworked; the wife of Golak Náth, the
native minister at Jallander, seems to set a good example.
in these respects, and so does a nice little Kashmirí
woman, the wife of a Christian woodcutter; but these
are exceptions.
Last Tuesday, 7th.-We spent a very pleasant day
at Filor. We went most of the way on an elephant,
and, as the 28th Native Infantry had marched the same
road just before us, we were much amused with many
curious sights, rows of carts filled with Sepáhis, or drum-
mers' wives and families; a young Punjab woman, in
her blue trousers and veil, leading a little kid, or a
Sepáhi's wife riding astride on her queer little pony;
then a man with a fighting ram, very fat, and his fleece
as white as snow, except where they had stained two
tufts on his back in bright orange colour; then an
immense row of bullock carts, who all got out of our
way most peaceably without one hundredth part of the
shouting, and none of the beating of cattle that Euro-
peans would display on such an occasion. We heard
one driver address an ox as Sahib Behádar, telling him
he was a great warrior, and it was necessary he should
exert himself; flattering him in a manner that certainly
360
FEWNESS OF SIKHS.
made the creature pull with double vigour. We over-
took the regiment near the bridge, and it was a pretty
sight to see them ford the river, for the bridge of boats
only extends across half of it.
Met Mr. Scott of the Civil Service, who told me
that the Sikhs (you must remember that the Sikhs are
a sect, the Panjábis a people) are so few that in the
Jallandar Doab there is not one Sikh in a hundred
inhabitants. They always call their sacred book “The
Granth Sahib." Mr. Scott told me he had had many
suits to settle regarding land which has been left for the
support of the Granth Sahib. A census of the popula-
tion of Lahore has just been published, and although
the number of Sikhs, even in the capital, is very small,
no beef is allowed there. In Jallandar, where sometime
ago they made a "fassád," i.e., a fuss, commotion, or
rebellion, on the establishment of one shop for killing
and selling beef, they now submit patiently to the pre-
sence of five such.
I am happy to say a good many Thugs were captured
the other day, and more are being pursued; they abound
just now in this neighbourhood.
On reading with the Munshí yesterday in the Acts,
of the people at Jerusalem casting off their clothes.
from rage, I found that the same thing is sometimes
done in this country. The garments are also rent in
mourning, both by Muhammadans and Hindus, but
more by the latter. When a death occurs, a woman of
the caste called Dóms, who are musicians and singers,
goes to the house and leads the lamentation, in which
the women of the family join, beating themselves and
tearing their hair.
He
C. is going to attend a funeral this evening; a poor
young artillery officer who called on us not long ago,
and who this day week was in perfect health.
seems to have had no complaint but a slight, low fever.
They blistered and leeched him, and sent for the Chap-
lain yesterday when he was delirious! and now, to-
night, he is to be buried. A circular is just come
announcing that an auction will be held to-morrow
!
AFGHANS ANXIOUS TO LEARN.
361
morning to sell off all his horses, dogs, and other
property, and at this very time, perhaps, his mother
and sisters are rejoicing at having "had such good
news from him by the last mail!" May God comfort
them by giving them the Spirit, the Comforter, to
abide with them for ever!
Leila Bibí having expressed a wish to learn to read,
I have had Louisa Sylvester taught the Hindustani
character, and she has been several times to teach her;
she is very quick, and I hope will be persevering.
Louisa has also read a chapter of the "Pilgrim's Pro-
gress" to her in Hindustaní, and explained it, and she
seemed to understand and to be interested. The day
Leila Bibí and Louisa had an argument on Múham-
madism and Christianity: it was, as you may suppose,
not a very learned or logical discussion, but they
showed the popular idea of their religion by saying
that no matter what a man did in this life, after death
he had only to go to Múhammad, and, for the sake of
"the Prophet," God would pardon all his sins. Louisa
answered that if it were thus, a man might sin as much
as he liked, kill six or eight people, commit a good
many robberies, and divers other sins, and yet be sure
of heaven at last. They say, "Oh, that would not do;
that they would be punished for their sins, but only a
little." Like all Muhammadans, they attacked the
Divinity of our Lord and Saviour, because they cannot
understand it. An evening or two after, Louisa met
several wives of one of the Shahzádehs, who desired her to
ask me to allow her to come and speak to them also.
Golak Náth, the native minister, told us on Sunday
that, at Jallandar, not only do many women of the
poorer classes come to see them and listen willingly to
what they say of the Gospel, but those of higher rank,
who cannot come out themselves, often send to ask his
wife to visit them for the express purpose of hearing
something about this "new religion," and always listen
to her patiently. There is an immense field for female
Missionaries in this part of the country, but, unfortu-
nately, there is scarcely any one to enter upon it
VOL. I.
R
362
AZIM AND HIS WIFE-CONTROVERSY.
Golak gave a very satisfactory account of Azim, the
new convert, and said that, although he was but a babe
in Christ, he had already been of great assistance to
him. His wife professes to be a Christian, but shows
no sign of being a converted person. As Golak said,
like all the oppressed women of this country, she
verifies the truth of the Persian proverb, "A cat in the
hands of an oppressor will use teeth and claws," and,
although her husband oppresses her no longer, she has
not yet left off her old habit of scolding to excess, and
using language that would never enter into the ima-
gination of a Billingsgate fishwoman. However, she
understands the theory of the Gospel; and when her
countrywomen come to see her, and ask her why she
has left her family and friends, she answers well, and
says, "for the salvation of my soul," so that one may
hope that she is, at least, convinced if not converted,
and that the Spirit of God will, in his own good time,
emancipate her from the bondage of her old nature and
old evil habits. The Mission premises at Jallandar are
situated halfway between the city and a large village;
Golak preaches in each once a-day, and frequently in
the populous and numerous surrounding villages. He
is now on his way to the great mela or fair at Hardwár,
whither Mr. Rudolph is also gone.
Mr. Janvier has just returned from his tour, and gives
a very encouraging account of the manner in which he
has been everywhere received, and the opportunities he
has had of maintaining the truths of the Gospel before
divers men of rank and learned Mullahs, whom he has,
in every case, been enabled to silence, and although it
was reported that he had been defeated, yet he said that
it was a great satisfaction to him to know that whatever
they might say, from 50 to 150 persons had been present
in each instance, all of whom had heard with their own
ears that their most famous Molevis had been non-
plussed.
One of these Molevis is said to be the greatest and
most learned man north of Dehli. He affects such a
degree of sanctity that he never goes out. Sometime
A PROUD MULLAH- FALSE INQUIRERS.
363
ago a man of high rank came with a great retinue to
see him, pitched his tents at a little distance, and sent
word to him of his arrival, stating how far he had come
on purpose to see him, thinking that the Molevi would
surely relax a little in favour of a man of his conse-
quence; but the latter sent for answer, that, since he
had come so far, he might as well come a little further.
But the Nawab, being as proud as the Mullah, struck
his tents and departed without seeing him.
This learned personage sent to ask Mr. Janvier to
come to him. He accordingly went, and found a fine
looking man, with a magnificent black beard, who was
at first too prudent to say much, leaving the discussion.
to his disciples; he at last came to their rescue and
endeavoured to browbeat Mr. Janvier, who checked him
by observing that it was not the proper way of carrying
on a discussion of such importance. He then repeated
what he had before advanced, and at last they were left
without a reply. He took leave in a friendly manner,
and the brother of the Molevi afterwards came to visit
him.
He found many reports rife among the natives, that
converts were bribed by the Missionaries, and sup-
ported at their expense, so he publicly invited them to
send some one to Loodiana to ascertain.
A man once stopped him in the bazár at Loodiana,
saying he was willing to be a Christian, and wishing to
know how much he would give. Another came to one
of the Missionaries, and said, they dressed so cleanly,
and fed so well, that he would like to be a Christian;
and a third went to Golak a short time since, and asked
for Christian instruction. After a few meetings it
appeared that he was a man of property, who had a suit
which he is likely to lose, pending before Mr. John
Lawrence, the Commissioner, and therefore wished to
be "of the religion of John Lawrence Sáhib;" but,
finding that Golak was a Presbyterian, and had no influ-
ence, spiritual, or political, with the Commissioner, he
departed. So men followed Jesus to feed on the loaves
and fishes; so they oft times come to his servants from
R 2
364
UNGENTLEMANLY CONDUCT.
merely mercenary views, and numbers of the Europeans
you meet in India, having no knowledge or belief in the
great work of the Spirit, deny the possibility of con-
verting the Natives, and think that all the converts have
been bribed. I do not know how they could account
for the conversion of their own barbarous ancestors.
They seem to say that the Lord's hand is "shortened,
that it cannot save." I do not understand how any
one who does not pray for and help Missions (much
less any one who opposes them), can use the Lord's
Prayer, and say daily "Thy kingdom come."
Most Europeans treat the natives more like brutes
than men: they seem to think a native is made to be
abused and beaten, and the most vulgar parvenus treat
native gentlemen as the dirt beneath their feet. I will
give you two instances of the ungentlemanly and un-
christian tone of Indian society and opinions in this
respect. In some notes of a journey from Agra to
Bombay, in 1841, now publishing in the "Dehli
Gazette," the writer says, "I managed to bag a few
peachicks, though the people do not like them to be shot,
and at one place we met with some grey partridges,
which the Zamindárs (landholders) wish to be spared.
As we had no occasion for their good offices for supplies,
but rather required the birds, there was little hesitation
in bagging all I could." Again, the "Delhi Gazette"
announces that "
an unfortunate accident has occurred
to a young officer, who, of course, is a kind-hearted
man and greatly beloved in his corps." What do you
think this accident is? When out shooting, he became
enraged with his unfortunate Sáís, and gave him a kick
on the back, of which the poor man died in a few
minutes, the spleen having been broken by the kick!
Men can restrain their tempers when a stout hackney
coachman or coal heaver is abusive, because they are
afraid they can even keep from striking their servants
in England, because they would be punished by law;
but here, because they know that they are the strongest,
they are cowardly enough to tyrannize over every one
who happens to thwart their childish humours. Our
:
WIDOW OF SHAH ZEMAN.
365
turkey-cock is a great curiosity in these parts: the Sikh
cultivators all come to look at him as they pass, and
when he gobbles and struts they run away.
March 22nd.-Mr. Newton came to ask me to visit
one of Shah Zemán's widows, who is very ill. Mrs.
Newton and I accordingly drove thither. All that was
to be seen of the house outside was a high mud wall,
like that round a large garden: a door in it led into
a little court, where a fine cow and calf and a pair of
very handsome oxen (intended, I suppose, to draw the
Palkígárí which stood outside) were eating. Our guide
knocked with his stick at a very low door, so that a
person outside could see nothing of one within higher
than the elbow it was soon opened, and we entered
and found ourselves in a neat little garden full of onions,
from whence another door led into a row of very clean,
neat apartments, in one of which the poor old lady was
sitting up in bed, wrapped in a quilt; two chairs were
placed for us. The Shahzadeh, her son, and a row of
women were all sitting on the floor, watching the incan-
tations of a strange veiled figure, who turned out to be
a native "wise woman" performing charms for the poor
old lady's recovery. She has been ill more than two
months and had hardly any pulse, though she moved
wonderfully well. Two elderly unmarried daughters
were near her: it is strange how immediately I recog-
nized them as such without being told,—there is some-
thing quite different in the look of a married woman
and an old maid.
Shah Zemán seems, at least in these instances, to
have followed the same preposterous system as his
brother Shah Shujah, by not suffering his daughters to
marry. The old lady must have been handsome in her
youth, and was very courteous and grieved when I stood
up to help her. The Shahzadeh was very attentive to
her; a handsome man when sitting, though very short
and stout, magnificent eyes, eyebrows and beard. Divers
of his wives were there; one rather pretty, with a saucy,
pert expression, the other very gentle and the mother of
two very pretty delicate little boys, dressed in yellow
366
CHEROOTS- -MUSIC.
satin, one of whom went to Mrs. Newton at once and
fell asleep in her arms. I prescribed for the poor old
lady, who encouraged us by saying that if she got well
we must come again and she would give a Nách! All
the ladies were smoking by turns, one chillam being
passed round; they offered it to us, and when we
declined, one of them, more knowing than the rest,
observed, "Ah, they smoke cheroots!"
For the rest of the day, I laughed whenever the
image which had presented itself to the imagination of
these good ladies, crossed my mind, of Mrs. Newton
and myself with cigars in our mouths! They begged
us to come again, which we promised to do. The
Shahzadeh stood up and waved his hand like an Italian
when we left, but followed us to the door to see us get
into the buggy. When I told Captain C. of Luke N.'s
death, of which dear Lizzy has just sent us a most
touching account, he said, with a kind of indignation,
"And do they mourn for him?" In the evening we
went to the C.'s, C. riding and I in my Palki, and after
tea they delighted us with most excellent music, espe-
cially "La Religieuse," a Nocturne, by Hubert, and
"La Mélancholie," by Prume. I never heard a more
exquisite violin player than Mr. C.: it was most
refreshing to both of us to enjoy such a musical treat,
for this has been a very dry year;-no music, not a
picture, no prints, no mountains (except a transitory
half-hour's glimpse of the snowy range two or three
times), no woods, no new books, no old friends; so that,
sceing some good prints, hearing such good music,
especially from one whom we had known at home, and
who spoke of my old girlish friends, was quite reviving.
In spite of all these wants, we have been very happy;
but the only objects of interest out of ourselves have
been human beings, chiefly strangers; and that is like
living on a meat diet, one requires fruits, flowers and
salads to refresh one. Did not get home till midnight:
such a glorious moonlight night!
March 23rd.-Mrs. Newton and I were just going to
sce the poor old Bégum when Muhammad Khán told
1
FUNERAL SCENE IN A ZENANA.
367
us that she was dead. She died last night, and was
buried to-day about one o'clock. He had been to the
house to join in certain prayers for her soul. On find-
ing, however, that they had sent last night after we had
gone out to ask me to come to her, Mrs. N. and I
agreed it would be better to call and see the family,
that they might not think us unkind or neglectful. A
respectable grey-bearded man showed us the way to the
woman's apartments and garden, the other side of the
house being occupied by the men. Prince Teimur's
buggy was standing at the door, he having come to pay
a visit of condolence. We found the garden full of
women of all ranks, so that it was a gay rather than a
mournful scene. Some of Shah Shujah's family were
seated on a kind of terrace spread with carpets, where
they invited us to sit; and after talking to them a little,
they asked us to go within to see the nearer relations.
Two of these, daughters of the poor old lady, seemed in
real grief; it is not etiquette for them to speak, but they
may be spoken to. One of them seemed as if she had
wept until she could weep no more, and she occasionally
groaned and rocked herself; we sat down by them and
expressed our sympathy, but the other women showed
no signs of feeling. The pretty saucy little creature we
had seen the day before talked and smiled close to them,
and almost all the other women begged me to feel their
pulses, and to prescribe for different aches and pains.
One or two gently pulled my skirt to make me look
round, that they might see the Feringhí lady properly.
In order to introduce the subject on which we most
wished to speak, Mrs. Newton told them that I was in
mourning for my dear father, but that I thought of him
with joy as now with God.
When we returned to the Bégums, outside, one of
the women repeated to them what Mrs. Newton had
said, which gave her the opportunity of telling that it
was only through Jesus, "İsa Masih," that we could
be saved. They seemed to assent, but then began
another list of maladies; they were very anxious to
know which was Mackenzie Sahib's "Mem," and said
368
TWO ZENANAS.
they knew all about him. There were several women
there of great beauty, as fair as Europeans, with a very
noble style of features and winning manners. There
was also the first really beautiful Kashmirí I have seen,
rather dark, but such eyes, nose, and mouth! She
looked like one of the most beautiful of the Greek
Bacchante. A female servant came with a Persian
message to me from the Shahzadeh. As I could not
understand her, I bowed and sent many saláms, and
she seemed quite satisfied. They wanted us to stay to
the feast, but this we could not do, as Mrs. Newton
was anxious to get home. Indeed, the noise and crowd
were quite fatiguing; it was more like a fair than a
funeral. They wore colours as usual, but no ornaments.
It makes one's heart ache to think of the poor old
Bégum having past into eternity, and of all these pass-
ing away ignorant and heedless of a Saviour. Near
relations visit them for three or ten days, and on the
first and fortieth day all their acquaintance go, and
there is a feast for them and for the poor.
Saturday, 25th March.-Two of the invalids we had
seen on Thursday sent for medicine, and one earnestly
begged we would come to see her. Mrs. Newton and
I therefore went, and were conducted first to Shahzadeh
Yusuf's, where we found cushions on the floor for our
reception; a handsome man, whom we concluded to be
the Shahzadeh, and a crowd of women speedily came
and sat around us. My patient was a young unmarried
girl, who suffers dreadfully from headaches, and had
just had leeches on. I prescribed for her; her father,
a remarkably fine looking man, with a magnificent beard
standing at the door, so we concluded he must be a
brother of our host, as the women were all unveiled.
Some of the women were very handsome, particularly
one who had stained all the upper half of her forehead
a bright yellow; a boy about twelve years old had also
yellow stripes on his cheeks like whiskers. Our host,
after I had prescribed, asked if I were married-if I
had children, and why I wore black, and pressed us to
eat; and when we declined, they asked if we would
YELLOW CHEEKS AND RED HAIR.
369
come to a Khána (dinner) if they invited us beforehand,
which we promised to do. I must not omit to say, that
in going out we passed through a little passage room
where two men were sawing wood, and a goat was lying
in one corner; in fact, it was her stable.
Close by the door was a pedestal of mud (of which,
by the way, all our houses here are built) about a
yard square.
I had seen an arm-chair placed on this
as we entered, and wondered what it was there for;
but in coming out we found rather a good-looking
personage, another Shahzadeh, perched thereon. He
wished me to give him some medicine for a lump on
his hand, but I promised him a note to the Doctor
instead. We then went on to Shahzadeh Suleimán.
It was a very poor house, and everything in their dress,
as well as in the building, betokened the reduced cir-
cumstances of this grandson of the once mighty Shah
Zemán. He was sitting in a kind of open shed (such
as they put carts into in England) smoking his chillam,
and we found his wife was the handsome creature, with
such noble features, whom we had met at the funeral.
As we could not make all the needful inquiries about
her health with the Shahzadeh sitting by, Mrs. Newton
mentioned this to him. He nodded his head and then
sent away his pipe, thinking poor simple man, that it
was that which was in our way, so we were obliged to
explain that it was his Highness's self. After I had given
her the medicine, her eldest boy, a beautiful child about
nine years old, with a fine emerald in one ear, took hold
of Mrs. Newton's hand, and remarked on the difference
of colour. They asked us why we did not make a little
spot between the eyebrows as they do. Mrs. Newton
retorted, "Why do you do it?" which made them
laugh. We declined staying to eat anything, on the
plea that our husbands would have no breakfast till we
got home. They then offered to send us some, and
inquired if we would eat out of their hands. We
assured them that we would with pleasure another time.
I have inquired about the yellow colour on the forehead
and cheeks, and find it is used medicinally; they pound
R 3
370
AN ARMENIAN LADY.
a certain wood called sirk, and spread it on the head
for pain in the head, on the cheeks for pain in the
throat.
April 14th, 1848.-Since I wrote last, the weather
has become so suddenly hot, and so much earlier than
usual, that we have been using phankas for the last ten
days, and some have even begun tatties: the thermo-
meter is from 82° to 85° in the house, with all the
doors shut. The regiment received all arrears of pay in
the beginning of this month. We find the Newtons
great acquisitions; I really love Mrs. Newton. We
have been once or twice to see the Shahzadeh Sulei-
man's Bégums, if they can be called so when reduced
to such poverty. We met an old woman there with her
grey hair dyed red; she said it was good for her eyes,
which are weak, but it had a very odd effect.
You can
have no idea of the way in which they speak of all
subjects and all kinds of illness before every one, great
boys of ten and twelve years old included. Mrs. New-
ton also took me to call on Madame wife of Gene-
ral
who was in the Sikh service: she is a very
handsome Armenian, not darker, or so dark, as many
Italians, with a fresh bright colour and very pleasing
manners, though she is becoming rather embonpoint.
Her mother is a very fine old lady, who calls Mrs.
Newton her daughter. The house had a curious
mixture of European and native furniture, which gave it
very much the appearance of a lumber-room;—it had a
mattress close to the wall for sitting on, two or three
chairs, a picture of the Bégum Sumrú, two or three
French prints, and two or three clocks, none of them
going. Madame
and a sister's child of hers, a
girl about nineteen, and the infant of another sister,
were all in the native costume: they are nominal
Romanists, but none of them can read.
The Nizam-u-Doulah has been here with his eldest
son, a very fine young man, who has lately escaped
from Kandahar. Kohan Dil Khán, a Bárakzai, and
one of the Amírs of Kandahar, caught this young man,
put chains on his hands and feet, and a heavy iron
ABBAS KHAN-FRENCH REVOLUTION.
371
collar on his neck,-most shameful treatment for a man
whose nobility is a match for almost any in Europe.
Not satisfied with this, he ordered him to be hanged;
but no sooner did Kohan Dil's Pír, or saint, hear of
this monstrous order, than he came into the town, and
said, (C Do you want to bring a curse on your house by
slaying Abbas Khán? Give him to me! not a hair of
his head shall be touched!" He accordingly took him
away, and finding his life was still in danger, sent him
across the hills with a guide. They rode, and they ran,
so that they nearly killed their horses, and barely
escaped from their pursuers. Abbas Khán is a very
handsome and most gentlemanly man; his hands and
clothes as delicately clean as those of an English gentle-
man. Our overland letters arrived: of course they
said nothing of the French revolution, but we had
been startled with the announcement of it in the
"Dehli Express," and we have been thinking of hardly
anything else.
It was some days before we knew that there was really
a republic in France; and now that (20th April) we
have possession of pretty nearly a complete outline of
this revolt, it appears one of the most causeless, sense-
less ebullitions of a popular whimsie I ever heard of.
If Louis Phillippe had been able, which perhaps he was
not, to go forth along the Boulevards, as he did more than
once in the early years of his reign, allaying the storm
by his fearlessness, this might not have happened. The
whole thing is a bloody freak, a portentous whim: the
mob has effected a revolution, and seems likely for
awhile to retain its ill-omened supremacy. The affecta-
tion, the self-glorification, the verbiage of the speech-
ings and actings are marvellous; it is one incessant
cock-crow. Two things have struck me much the
evident marks of divine retribution in the downfall of
the poor old King; Táhiti, Queen Isabella, and Abdul
Káder, are all amply avenged; the other is how little
stability policy can give to a throne. Louise Philippe
courted the Popish clergy,-they have renounced him
en masse he flattered the army,-the army deserted
:
372
THE FAIR AT HARDWAR.
him; not one of the savans or artists whom he so liberally
patronized-hardly a creature in the whole country
seems to have had the least personal attachment to him
or his family. Never was any sovereign so entirely
forsaken! What a helpless set of sons he appears to
have! I get so indignant with the French that it
makes me ill to think of them.
I had slight fever on Sunday, 16th, and have not been
quite well since until to-day; this is the first time I
have been feverish since I came to India, surely I have
great cause of thankfulness in such good health. Golak
Nath dined with us last evening (April 19th); he has
just returned from the great fair at Hurdwar. Mr.
Rudolph was so overcome by the extreme heat, which
was upwards of 100° in the tent, that he became very
ill, and was obliged to return some days ago. Golak
says hundreds came to receive books, and each of the
missionaries (there were only about four or five present
this year) continues in his tent preaching and speaking
to the people the whole day while the fair lasts. Ima-
gine the toil in such a climate. Hurdwar is not far
from the hills, and the nights are so cold that they are
glad to use a quilt. He says that the chief difference
he remarks in the behaviour of the natives is, that they
are perhaps more willing to hear than they used to be,
and at any rate more willing to dispute and discuss the
subject of religion. They know now the object of the
missionaries, and have a general idea of what Christianity
is. Golak overheard one warning another against going
to the missionaries, saying, "You will hear nothing
but things against Muhammad." Golak gave me a
curious ancient silver coin, which I mean to send to the
Free Church Muscum. The Brahman from whom he
got it said it was coined in the days of the great Ram
(one of their idols), and that he himself worshipped
it. Golak Nath offered him eight annas (one shilling)
for it, and after a little reflection he consented, as too
many nominal Christians would do, to sell his god for
a piece of money.
April 24th, 1818.-I was walking on the roof of the
MORNING SCENE.
373
house this morning about five o'clock, and could not
help wishing to convey to you an idea of the various
scenes going on below. On one side Baedullah and one
of the grasscutters were toiling away with fowrahs, a
kind of spade-pickaxe, making water-courses to each of
our newly-planted trees, with Bow lying at full length
on a heap of earth watching them, while Nel was
gravely walking up and down the watercourses, making
himself as muddy and cool as he could.
A little further on was the well, with two magni-
ficent bullocks running up and down an inclined plane,
and drawing up huge skins of water at each descent.
There are a few trees round the well, and near it is a
little tent for the use of the guard, close to which three
camels are tethered. Then comes the little Compound
or yard, which contains the bamboo hen-house, and I
watched the sweeper opening the doors and letting out
the various inhabitants. The fowls were all peaceably
eating their breakfast when the swift-footed and pugna-
cious guinea-fowls were let loose among them and
created the utmost confusion, chasing one, pecking
another, and making even the fat ducks waddle off as
fast as was possible. There was the turkey-cock parading
up and down in full-blown pride-the wild and tame
geese walking about snuffing the air, and the ducks
running in a body to paddle in the water that was flow-
ing from the bath-rooms. On the other side were the
orderlies peeping over the wall to look at the farm-yard
-the sheep, including two pet Dumbá rams, eating
their food-the baker and the servants passing to and
fro from the kitchen. On Mondays there is the addi-
tion of a most picturesqne group of from sixty to seventy
beggars waiting for their dole. In front of the house
were men called Ghirámis making tatties, and the
Bhistí, with his goat-skin full, coming to water the
plants or supply the bathrooms. One of the Shutr
Sawárs (camel riders) was just starting with his camel
on some errand of his own, and soon after Mr. Janvier's
buggy appeared to take him to the city.
I was touched the other day by the poverty of an old
374
POOR OLD AFGHAN-FILIAL PIETY.
Afghán retainer of Shah Shujah's, whom Dr. M'Crae
has lately couched at my husband's request, with par-
tial success. He is so much reduced (having lost
everything) that he said, "I live upon fasting, and the
day when a little Dál (dried pease) is cooked in my
house is a feast." He said it quite simply, without
making any parade, and accepted C.'s gift with quiet
thankfulness. I remarked the reverence and tender-
ness with which his son supported him-and Abdul-
rahmán Khán tells us that this son has refused all
offers of service in order to take care of his old father.
Indeed filial affection is a very pleasing trait in the
Afgháns generally. Muhammad Khán has left us for
Pesháwur. He thanked us both so nicely before he
went, and said that if he had offended in anything he
hoped to be forgiven. I took a sketch of him, and we
were really grieved to part with him. We gave him a
Pushtú Bible, as he can read a little.
I had a bad headache, and was sleeping late, when
Shahzadeh Suleimán's (the poor prince) wife and her
red-haired old companion came with one of her chil-
dren. As the Ayah refused to wake me, they asked
which was my room, that they might wake me them-
selves; but as the little Ayah valiantly defended the
door, they sat down in the outer room where breakfast
was laid. Our headman would not leave the room for
an instant, watching over the silver as vigilantly as the
Ayah guarded my sleep. They asked "if all that was
silver?" Saiad Khán said, "Of course it is." "Oh,"
replied they, "it cannot be all silver;" and when he
indignantly reiterated the assurance that it was, they
concluded that "the Mem Sáhib must be very rich."
Sudial Sing, the Subadar who was formerly Havildar
Major, brought me a branch of one of the most beau-
tiful trees I ever saw, called the kesú, thickly covered
with gorgeous scarlet blossoms. It is a papilionaceous
flower, like an enormous sweet pea. He says that in
his country, Rajputána, there are forests forty and fifty
kos long of these trees. I am told that they require
hardly any water, so that they would just suit this soil.
t
375
CHAPTER XII.
A
Multan Outbreak-George Thomas-Murder of Anderson and Agnew-
Sir F. Currie-General Ventura-Individuals have no Rights-A
Sikh Sirdar English Friendship - Rudeness Nabi Baksh
Weeping Naig-Sheep Stealing-A Hen wife-Drowning-Plot at
Lahore-State of the Panjab-Shir Sing-Sikh Regiment - News
from Lahore-Rejecting Information-Cure for Madness-The Rani
-The Regiment Volunteers-Mussalman Funeral-Exposing Troops
to the Sun-A Demonstration-Hasan Khan's Wives-Sir F. Currie.
APRIL 26TH, 1848.-We received a note from Mrs.
W. this morning, telling us that our poor friend Mr.
Anderson had been attacked at Multán, whither he had
accompanied Mr. Vans Agnew as Political Assistant,
and both wounded. One account says Mr. Agnew is
dead. After this we heard reports that both were
killed, and a large force under Brigadier Campbell was
ordered to Multán.
April 28th.-Heard that poor Mr. Anderson was
certainly killed, the British force countermanded, and
a force of 7000 Sikhs is sent to Multán, where it will
probably join the rebels.
Saturday evening Captain Cuningham came to wish
us good-by, as his regiment received orders this morn-
ing to move to Firozpúr. On Sunday evening, how-
ever, it was countermanded, and they say the campaign
is deferred till October, as it will require a very large
force to quell this insurrection, as the whole province
is up in arms. The Dewán has declared himself inde-
pendent, and people are flocking to his standard from
every side.
376
LIEUTENANT ANDERSON.
The accounts we hear of this dreadful murder are so
various that I shall wait till Mr. Cocks comes in from
Lahore, when I hope to get the true one.
We can
hardly believe that that gentlemanly, high-spirited
young man, has met such a fearful death. It was but
the 21st of last month that I wrote to him in answer
to a letter full of hope, written on first coming up to
this part of the country, and in which he recalled all
the little details of what he styled "the delightful, to
me, Dresdenische sojourn." Mr. Cocks mentions that
the last conversation he had with him was about us.
We rejoiced to hear of his appointment.
He left
Lahore about the 4th of April, and must have met his
death almost immediately on arriving. Mr. Cocks
mentions both, as so very different from the usual run
of young men, both having strong religious feelings.
We can only hope that the vivid interest in the things
which pertain to salvation, which we know that our
poor friend felt, may have ripened into entire trust in
Christ, and then there is nothing to regret in his quick
and painful passage to eternity.
It seems that many of their guard have come into
Lahore, and their depositions are being taken.
This has almost put the French revolution and its
impending consequences out of our thoughts, and it is
with inexpressible pain we think of poor "Willie "
Anderson's flaxen hair, that used to wave to and fro
when he amused the children by playing at "cock,"
floating on the point of a spear; for they are said to
have cut off their heads and paraded them about. May
God comfort the families of both!
May 3rd.-General Gilbert, who was here the other
day, told C. divers anecdotes of the wars in Lord Lake's
time, in which he served. A little before this period
there was no higher rank in India than Captain. As
soon as a man got his Captaincy he was appointed to a
regiment, and drew the allowances for 1000, though
he never had above 200 men. This was the general
practice and universally known. But when the regi-
ment was wanted for service, its Commandant imme-
GEORGE THOMAS.
377
diately raised and armed the full complement, and did
his work well.
There was a noted English adventurer of the name
of George Thomas, who had formerly been a ship's
steward. He found his way up to this part of the
country at a time when the British frontier did not
even reach Dehli, gathered a band of followers, and
became a petty prince. The Mahrattas wished to get
his fort, but he beat them off. They then sent an
army against him under the French adventurer Perron.
George Thomas had collected an army, made brass
guns, and fortified his stronghold, but he had no means
of casting iron guns. He was a very clever man, and
with sailor-like ingenuity, took a number of fine steel
bars, bound them together with rope, and then cast a
brass gun over them, thus forming a train of artillery
as light as field pieces, and as strong as siege guns.
It is wonderful that no one has ever adopted his idea
and lined brass guns with iron.
In spite, however, of his skill and bravery, the regular
disciplined forces under Perron were too strong for him.
They effected a breach in his outer wall, and Colonel
Skinner (the famous half-caste cavalry officer, who told
General Gilbert the anecdote, and who was then serving
under Perron) was one of the first to mount the breach.
On the summit he met an old school-fellow, who fired
both barrels of his gun at him and missed him; Colonel
Skinner returned the friendly greeting by a thrust with
his spear, which the other avoided by ducking his head.
"There he sits, Colonel Gilbert !" cried the narrator,
"let him deny it if he can; I carried off his cap on
the point of my spear." The storming party pressed
on till they reached the gate of the inner fort, when
out came a European with his shirt-sleeves tucked up
(and probably with "Mary" and an anchor tattoed on
his arms), a shield on one arm, and brandishing his
sword with so daring and ferocious an aspect that, said
Colonel Skinner, "I can look most men in the face,
but I could not stand the glance of that man's eye.
My column turned and ran pell-mell, and I ran after
378 MURDER OF MR. AGNEW AND LIEUT. ANDERSON.
them." However, the post was taken, and George
Thomas obliged to surrender.
Perron and his officers asked him to dinner, after
which some one proposed a toast, "Success to General
Perrou !"
Up rose the dauntless Birsaker of a prisoner, and
cried, "I won't drink that toast, and what is more, I
look on it as a personal insult to myself, and I will
fight any five Frenchmen present."
But no one desired to encounter such an antagonist,
so they-
"Spake him fair,
And straik him canny, wi' the hair."
The weather has been very pleasant lately, much
cooler. Lahore must be cooler than this, for they have
had the thermometer at 78° in the day without tatties,
while with us it has never been lower than 82°.
Friday, May 5th.-As far as we can gather, the true
account of our poor friend Lieutenant Anderson's death
seems to be as follows:-He accompanied Mr. Agnew
as his assistant to Multán, where they were to instal a
new Sikh Governor in the place of the Dewan Mulráj.
Prior to doing this, Mr. Agnew demanded a statement
of accounts from the Dewan, which the latter refused
to give, and wished his successor to be installed at
once. While Mr. John Lawrence was in temporary
charge of the Panjáb, before Sir Frederick Curric
arrived, it is said that the Sikh Minister, Dinnánáth,
advised him to make Mulráj come in and give in his
accounts at Lahore. The present Dewán (Governor) of
Multán is son of the former one, the office having
become almost hereditary during the confusion which
has existed in the Panjáb; just as the Dukes and
Counts of the Carlovingian Empire transformed their
life tenures into heritable ones. Mr. Agnew went to
the Fort, which contained some thousand soldiers,
leaving matters in this unsettled state with Mulráj, and
imprudently enough told the soldiers that such as were
fit would be entertained and the rest discharged. This,
of course, was very unsatisfactory news to them, several
SIR F. CURRIE.
379
of whom assailed him and Mr. Anderson as they were
leaving the Fort. The horse of the latter shied into a
ditch, and it was while extricating himself that he
received several wounds. He and Mr. Agnew managed,
however, to reach their camp, and when, a few hours
after, they saw a large body coming to attack them,
they took refuge, with their escort of 200 men, in a
small Idgah, where they defended themselves until
their men, either bribed or intimidated, surrendered.
The enemy made a rush, and both fell almost at the
first fire. Lieutenant Anderson was too much disabled
to resist, but Mr. Agnew fired both barrels of his gun
and killed one man. Their heads were cut off and
paraded about on poles, and their bodies exposed to a
thousand indignities. The new Governor, Khán Sing,
and two native artillerymen, stood by them to the last,
and the former is now a prisoner. It is now said there
is to be no campaign till the cold weather: this, of
course, will give time for Mulráj still further to
strengthen himself, and will teach all who are inclined
to rebel, that they may do so with impunity in the hot
season. Major Campbell, the Paymaster at Lahore,
writes that "Colonel Lawrence and Sir John Littler
arc sadly wanted." The Brigadier Colonel Campbell is
the only person who sees the necessity for immediate
action. All that Sir Frederick Currie has done is to
issue a proclamation desiring no one to pay tribute to
Mulráj, while the rebel chief himself is taking most
active measures, and has called on all the Afghán tribes
near to come to his aid, offering ten rupees for every
man on foot, and thirty for every horseman. Ranjit
Sing lost 2,000 men in taking the fort of Multán. From
the time Sir F. Currie was first named as Colonel Law-
rence's temporary successor, every one has wondered at
the appointment, for no one ever considered him as
anything more than a gentlemanly, well-informed man.
He was Secretary to Government under Lord Hardinge,
and would, no doubt, have been a good member of
Council, but Lord Hardinge, they say, over-estimated
Sir F. Currie on account of his knowledge of civil
..
380
GENERAL VENTURA'S JAGHIR.
administration, as men often do those who possess know-
ledge of which they themselves are entirely ignorant.
That gallant old officer, Sir John Littler, was, there-
fore, sent down to Calcutta as member of Council, and
Sir Frederick Currie brought up to the Panjáb to
occupy a post far more suited to a military man.
C. went last evening to see General Ventura, who is
not well, and, therefore, excused himself from calling
on me. The large fortune which he had amassed in the
Sikh service has been lost in a French bank, and he is
in great difficulties about his Jághír or grant of land in
this neighbourhood. It seems the Government are
behaving ill about it. It is a very valuable fief, and
was given by Ranjit Sing to the General and his heirs
for ever, in acknowledgment of his great services, and
in lieu of the increase of pay to which he would other-
wise have become entitled. In order to secure this
property during the disturbances subsequent to Ranjit
Sing's death, General Ventura placed it under British
protection, and the British Agent kindly collected the
revenues and kept them in the Treasury at the General's
disposal. Sir Frederick Currie, however, without any
cause, chose to resume the fief, saying it had not been
given for ever; whereas, the terms of the grant showed
it had, and the Government finished by offering the
General a sum far below its real value, or else the lease
of it for three lives. A Jághír partakes more of the
nature of a fief, than a mere estate. The proprietor
collects, and is answerable for the taxes, and is, in fact,
lord of the land: but under any form of tenure the
glaring injustice of such an unprovoked resumption is
manifest. The Home Government having (it is to be
supposed in ignorance of the merits of the case) sanc-
tioned Sir Frederick Currie's unjust deed, the Governor-
General could only forward General Ventura's memorial,
which he did in 1849, but up to the latest accounts the
General had not obtained justice. In these cases the
responsibility is too often shuttlecocked to and fro
between the Court of Directors and the Government of
India, and between them justice falls to the ground.
AN INDIVIDUAL HAS NO RIGHTS.
دو
381
the
Not content with confiscating his Jághír, the autho-
rities (I believe during the absence of Sir H. Lawrence)
thought that General Ventura's handsome house and
garden at Lahore very suitable for a Residency-so
they took it! and when the General, naturally enough,
requested that as they had taken his house, they would
at least pay for it, this was refused on pleas worthy of
the meanest attorney in Chancery-lane. He said he
thought they should have acted differently towards "un
vieux militaire," but he found that Major Mackeson
had told him truly when he said, "General, in this
country an individual has no rights.' He had received
a letter from a Sikh Sirdár, who was so agreeable and
friendly that when any Englishman went into
Panjab in Lord Auckland's time, they always requested
that he might be appointed their Mehmándár or Host.
He thus had constant opportunities of conferring obli-
gations on British officers, from the Commander-in-
Chief downwards: all of them were lavish in their
expressions of gratitude till the Sikh war broke out,
and the British took possession of the protected States
on this side of the Satlej, and proclaimed that all pro-
prietors who did not join them should have their pro-
perty confiscated. Among others, this Sirdár had a
house in Loodiana, but the chief part of his property
being across the Satlej, of course he did not come in,
and yet, since the peace, in spite of all the professions of
friendship he received, and in spite of the unreasonable-
ness of expecting him to turn traitor to his own Govern-
ment, he has never been able to get back his house.
He said to General Ventura that "he hoped he would
not find the English what they had been to himself,
full of protestations of friendship when they could get
anything from you, and as soon as you can be of no
further use they throw you overboard." *
A very enterprising merchant here, Nabí Baksh by
name, set up a soda-water machine and makes excellent
soda-water. Some time since Nabí Baksh called upon
*The Court of Directors has since purchased General Ventura's
Jaghir for a considerable sum.
382
HINDU NAIG'S ARTFULNESS.
different officers here (beginning with the senior surgeon,
a man of weight and character) and asked them to come
and dine at his hotel, and then draw up a certificate or
testimonial of his zeal in introducing various improve-
ments and making divers efforts to supply the wants of
the European community. They all accepted the invi-
tation, and Nabí Baksh made a grand feast, had excellent
wines, and everything as good as possible to do honour
to the guests, expending about 200 rupees on the occa-
sion. When the day arrived he went there himself to
see that everything was properly arranged, and sent
twice to tell his guests that the dinner was ready. Not
one of them came! It is this insolence which makes
Englishmen hated.
The other day a Hindú Náig came here, weeping
bitterly as he leant against the corner of the house, and
said that 300 rupees had been stolen from him. C.
spoke sharply to him for crying, but caused diligent
inquiry to be made, when there appeared every reason
to believe that he had never lost any money, but had
made the complaint merely to injure another man.
This will give you some idea of their artfulness. I do
not think that an Englishman could, by any possibility,
cry over an imaginary loss. One is obliged to be very
summary in one's household government. The shepherd
and cowman lately stole eight of our fat sheep. We
kept them till the end of the month, and then dismissed
the principal without wages, and "cut the pay," as it is
technically termed, of the subordinate rogue, although
they then endeavoured to persuade me that he had had
no share in it; but as he has not uttered the smallest
remonstrance, I conclude he feels he is leniently treated
in being allowed to stay. Some people carry this system
to a shameful extent, and will cut their servants' pay for
every trifling fault, such as packing a box ill, or washing
a collar badly. If they destroy anything by gross care-
lessness I think it would be fair, but I have had no
trouble with our servants in this respect.
May 6th.-An old Scotch dairywoman came here
yesterday morning to enlighten Mrs. C. and me on the
THE MUNSHI'S GRIEF.
383
nurture of chickens, geese, &c. She mixed up broad
Scotch and Hindustaní in a most curious fashion. Mrs.
C. was constantly at a loss to know what she meant by
the one, and I by the other. For instance, she talked
of the "
wee choté anes," and told us to "gie them a
neive fu' before they get their pání," they were to have
a "spune fu' of ghiún." Mrs. C. could not guess what
spune fu'" and "nieve fu" " were, and I was puzzled
with "ghiún" (wheat) and "bájrá " (another grain.)
66
My poor Munshí has been in great affliction, his
sister's son, a clever young man of seventeen, having
been drowned while going to a wedding. The poor man
came yesterday for the first time since, and could hardly
keep the tears out of his eyes. He is quite thin and
weak from grief, and said that although he had lost
many relations, wife and children among them, nothing
had ever afflicted him like this. The boat, which was
full of people, struck on a sand-bank, and he was
drowned in trying to swim to land. All the rest were
saved, but one woman, a Mussalmání, wife of a gardener,
deliberately threw her own child into the water, where
of course it was drowned. When they were all rescued,
she began to be sorry for what she had done and wept
bitterly. Can you believe such a thing?
May 11th. We have just received a note from
Lahore, which accounts for the march of the troop of
Horse Artillery and of the 7th Native Infantry, which
have just left this for Amritsir. The writer, a staff
officer, says: "The night before last some twenty con-
spirators were seized in the city; their meetings had
been known for four or five days. The principal person
concerned, Khán Sing (a Sikh commandant), has been
all over the district, tampering with our Sepáhis and
Sawárs, and as his papers were seized with him, we may
have some curious revelations. They most certainly
seem to have had some of our soldiers in their clutches.
When Cocks, Lumsden, &c., went to seize Khán Sing,
they found all the chaps collected there. It was about
one or two in the morning, and they were all lying
about, having just finished their consultation. The plan
381
PLOT AT LAHORE.
was to have the northern gates opened to them by our
Sapáhis, whilst the southern ones towards Anarkallí
(the cantonment) were to be kept shut, so that no sup-
port could reach us. The villages on the other side of
the Raví are, or were, full of troops ready to rush in
and try to murder all the Europeans. Had the force
marched for Multán, they might have tried their hand
before other troops arrived, and, perhaps the Sikhs, who
had gone ahead, might have doubled and returned to
Lahore. . . . . I believe that one of our soldiers first gave
intimation of what was going on, and he was told to
carry on the intrigue. When he a second time attended
the meeting, he was surprised to find other Sepáhis
there. The Dragoons come in to-morrow. We have
picquets, &c., out on the Firozepur road, and sentries
have in many places been doubled. I hope a good
example will be made, for the rascals only laugh at our
leniency. The bad will and hatred towards us is uni-
versal; so the sooner we show them that we are not to
be trifled with, the better. We are all anxious about
Pesháwur. The Rání is supposed to be at the bottom
of the whole affair. My therm. in the Tai Khána* does
not rise beyond 75°; my upper rooms are upwards of
95°. There is some fear of a disturbance at Amritsir.
It is a pity that our battering train is not nearer than
Firozepur. However, we have a few good guns here."
May 18th.-Major Wheeler, of the 7th Irregular
Cavalry, gave information of this conspiracy some time
ago to Sir F. Currie, and was laughed at for his pains;
and the plot was the common jest of the Cantonments.
When at last the Resident was convinced of it, and the
conspirators seized, it was done in so bungling a manner
that many of them escaped. In fact, Sir F. Currie is
wholly unaccustomed to deal with men like the Sikhs;
and many of his assistants are young, inexperienced
civilians, many of them of two to four years' standing!
Two of the conspirators have been hanged; one, I be-
lieve, was the Munshí of the Rání, and the other a Sikh
Colonel of Artillery. Another of them was brought on
* Underground room.
MAJOR LAWRANCE.
385
parade to point out those Sepáhis who had joined in the
plot. One was seized, and immediately five others left
the ranks and fled. The Doctor knocked down one of
them, and three others were also secured, but one
escaped. The Colonel of Artillery was an Agent of
Mulráj, who was said to be marching on Lahore; but,
perhaps, now that the plot is discovered, he will change
his mind. Nevertheless, some of his cavalry have been
seen on the opposite side of the Raví, close to Lahore.
That abominable Raní (the Marie Christine of the
Panjáb) is now at Firozpur, en route to Benáres, which
is a satisfaction. All kinds of reports are rife. This
much is certain, that we want to get possession of
Govindghar, the fort of Amritsir, and do not dare to
ask for it, because we have no means of taking it if it
should not be given. A little fort, one march beyond the
large cantonment at Jallandar, has rebelled, closed its
gates, and refused supplies to our troops! Fancy doing
this under our very noses! We heard yesterday from
Major Lawrence, from Peshawur: he says he has no
fears of an invasion from the west, or of a rising among
the Muhammadan population, but is of course anxious.
as to the fidelity of the Sikh troops. Sir F. Currie has
done one good thing in ordering levies of Patans (men
of Afghán descent) both at Bannú and Peshawar, for
the protection of the political officers. Major Lawrence
says that Sir F. Currie has urged him to send Mrs.
Lawrence to Lahore, but adds :- "She is in no condi-
tion to travel; besides which, it would show that we
distrust the troops, which would never do: we are in
the hands of an all-wise and merciful Saviour, and place
our trust in Him. You know of old I never despaired
in the darkest hour, and trust I never shall. Edwardes
has raised 3000 Patans to protect himself (he is one of
the political Assistants at Bannu); and I have received
orders to raise a regiment of 600." He mentions as
another mistake of Sir F. Currie's, his sending Rajah
Shere Sing to protect the Sikh border. Major L.
considers him quite untrustworthy, and that he may
probably go over to Mulraj. [This chief's subsequent
VOL. I.
S
386
DEFERRING THE CAMPAIGN.
defection admits of much palliation. Neither he nor
any other Sikh looked upon fighting againts us otherwise
than as an act of patriotism and loyalty to the memory
of Ranjit Sing. It required less than a father's influ-
ence to prevail on a warlike chief to resist a hated
foreign enemy, especially when that father had been
driven to take up arms, as he himself asserted, and as
there is every ground for believing to be the case, by the
avowed suspicions and want of tact of the British Agent,
Captain A. If we consider that Chattar Sing and his
son did no more than our own Bruce or Owen Glen-
dower, and many other patriots, we shall look upon their
after-treatment as severe.] He thinks as most people
do, that the attack on Mr. Agnew and Mr. Anderson
was unpremeditated. He adds: "I have gone to every
possible length in urging on the Resident to send our
troops from Lahore and Ferozpur sharp; but no, he is
afraid to expose them to the heat! If he has not cause
to repent his supineness to the last day of his life, I am
greatly mistaken. Mulráj is, of course, strengthening
himself, and I fear, winning over the Khálsa troops in
and about Bunnu: this may spread to ours (those at
Peshawur), and then we shall be in a nice fix.
(C
My brother John has strongly urged an immediate
campaign, surely our Kábul disasters ought to be a
warning to us: what did we not lose by inactivity and
mental imbecility! I pity and grieve for Sir F. Currie,
but really I cannot understand him, think you either of
my brothers would have thus acted? In Lord Lake's
time did we ever shrink from employing our troops in
the hot winds, and what may not be the effects of its
getting abroad that the English army cannot leave their
cantonments, its Phankahs and Tattis, except in the
cold weather!" This is exactly what I said to you in
my last, every one who wishes to turn Yághi (rebellious)
may now reckon on impunity during the hot weather,
i. e. half the year even in these parts.
For several days there has been a report that Major
Ferris, who commanded the Second or Hill regiment of
the Frontier Brigade has been murdered, and that his
GALLANTRY OF CAPTAIN HODGSON'S REGIMENT. 387
regiment has taken Kangra where it was stationed. As
this has not been confirmed, we hope it may not be
true. They say, too, that Captain Hodgson's, the first
regiment of the same brigade at Hosheyapore, has de-
serted to a man! But all this wants confirmation. [It
proved entirely false. This very regiment afterwards
behaved with such gallantry and fidelity when fighting
against their own people and even their Gurú, that Mr.
John Lawrence declared that he would rather have
them than any two of the Line]. C. regrets much that
he has been prevented from carrying out his own plan
of having a due proportion of Afgháns, whose fidelity
has been already tried in his regiment. He has about
eighty, but that is not enough. However his men seem
anxious to be sent on service, and he thinks that would
be the best way to ensure their fidelity.*
,
I will copy part of a letter just received by a friend.
of ours from Dr. at Lahore. He says: "The fact
is, the whole country is up, and prepared to attack us,
only waiting an opportunity. The attack on the city
* Our regiment is composed as follows:
European Officers :-Commandant; Second in Command; Adjutant; a
Serjeant-Major, and Quartermaster Serjeant,
Sikhs :-3 Subadars; 3 Jemadars; 13 Havildars; 22 Naiks; 3 Buglers;
411 Sepahis.-Total 455.
Mussalmans from between the Jamma aud Jelum (the Sikh States);-
5 Havildars; 7 Naiks; 3 Buglers; 68 Sepahis.-Total 83.
Mussalmans from East of the Jamna (Hindustan) :—3 Subadars; 3
Jemadars; 9 Havildars; 9 Naiks; 10 Buglers; 51 Sepahis.-Total 84.
Hindus from East of the Jamna :-4 Subadars; 2 Jemadars; 24 Havil-
dars; 14 Naiks; 152 Sepahis.-Total 196.
Afghans-1 Subadar; 1 Jemadar; 9 Havildars; 7 Naiks; 2 Buglers;
60 Sepahis.-Total 80.
Ghurkas:-1 Jemadar; 1 Naik; 1 Bugler; 1 Sepahi.-Total 4.
The Commandant has 895 rupees a-month, out of which he pays a
writer 50, and forge 30 rupees a-month. The Second in Command has 500;
the Adjutant 427, out of which he has to keep the tents in repair. Sub-
adars have 60; Jemadars 24; Havildars 14; Naiks 12; and Sepahis 7.
The full complement is 800 rank and file and 20 Buglers, which was
soon after filled up. There are besides the Hospital and Bazar Estab-
lishments and Khalasis, cooks, Bhistis, &c. Every regiment is divided
into ten companies, each of which has its own Subadar and Jemadar, who
are commissioned officers. An Assistant-Surgeon is generally attached
to cach corps, so that the regiment, complete, musters about 1010 men.
8 2
388
LETTER FROM LAHORE.
was to have been on the 13th instant, at Anarkalli (the
name of the cantonment) where the officers' lines form
the west and south-west face, and are quite unprotected;
ten men were told off to each house to massacre the
officers at midnight on the 13th. Many of our Sepahís
are suspected of being concerned in this plot, a few have
been seized, a few have deserted, fearing being con-
fronted with the Sikh who has been reprieved on his
giving evidence. Many think that the Darbár (the
Court) have been quite aware of all this plot (how could
they be otherwise?) which it appears has been hatching
since the beginning of March, and might have been
discovered before, had our Politicals given a prudential
ear to warnings. But their custom, their stupid custom,
is, to affect to treat all such reports with contempt, and
then, when they find they are in for it, they stare and
say, who could have thought it?
It is a most astonishing thing that English Politicals
always despise information unless it come through some
regular formal channel; at least, those who are wiser
form the exception. When my husband informed Sir
William MacNaghten that Muhammad Akbár had
arrived at Bamián, a fact which he had been told in
confidence by a Kábul merchant who had just come
from thence, Sir William, though at first struck with
it, speedily came to the conclusion that "if it were true
he must have heard of it." A faqir also warned him
with still less effect. John Conolly told him that
the city was ripe for insurrection. All this was about
a fortnight before it broke out. I was amused at an
instance of Afghán craft the other day. An Afghán
Sepahí came to my husband and asked for his discharge.
C. refused it, saying "He could not permit men to
enlist one day and leave the next; but that next year
a certain number would be allowed furlough, and he
could then go to see his family." The next day the
poor man was raving mad. C. suspected a trick, but
the native officers and Havildár Major were convinced
it was real. C. sent him to the guard-house-he was
muttering to himself, his eyes wildly rolling, and appa-
CURE FOR MADNESS.
389
rently perfectly insane. C. asked him if he took him
for a fool, and threatened him if he did not do his duty,
that ways would be found to make him do it. He saw
that the man really understood what he said, but he
waited a few days, and then sent him to Dr. McRae, to
whom he wrote an account of the case, saying that of
course means of cure were in his power. Dr. McRae
accordingly spoke kindly to him, examined him and
said, “Well, my poor fellow, you must be treated with
science, we will do what we can for you here, you shall
have some medicine and blisters, and if that does not
cure you we will send you to the Lunatic Asylum at
Dehli." This was too much for even an Afgháns nerves;
as he walked away he said, "I am no more mad than
you are," came back quite cured, and has done his work
ever since. The Lines are nearly finished, they will
probably be completed for the sum allotted by Govern-
ment, so that the regiment will have nothing to pay;
whereas, their neighbours, the Sappers and Miners who
refused to do any of the work themselves, will have to
pay about twelve rupees a man for theirs.
May 22nd.-Major Ferris is safe and sound. He has
written into Loodiana for a supply of ducks and fowls,
and gives no hint of being in want of any other support.
The account of his assassination came in a letter bearing
the Kangra postmark, it must, therefore, have been a
wilful fabrication.
The Khansaman of one of the Lahore regiments is to
be hanged, it having been discovered that he had under-
taken to poison the whole mess.
On Thursday evening C. took me on the elephant to
see the Lines, which are just finished; they are very
neat, with broad walks between; the Subádárs' and
Jemádárs' houses being at the rear of their respective
companies. Numbers of young trees have been planted
in the Lines. Some of the Sikhs were sitting round
while their dinner was cooked. There are two cooks to
each company (the Hindus and Mussalmáns cook for
themselves). A fire was kindled beneath a large iron
plate and the Chapattis stuck on this to bake.
390
REGIMENT OF VOLUNTEERS.
We found a conclave of Native officers and non-com-
missioned officers at one of the Pay-Havildárs houses,
and next day it turned out that they had been consult-
ing about volunteering, for when at sunrise on Friday
morning they came to receive their pay, the Native
officer in command of each company stepped forward,
and on behalf of his men volunteered for the approach-
ing campaign. This, of course, was very gratifying to
my dear husband, and I think little less so to me. They
expressed their pleasure at serving under my husband
personally.
Sir F. Currie never vouchsafed an answer of any sort
to this gallant offer, and probably never made it known
to the Governor-General, and some time after, on
writing to my husband on other matters, he mentioned
casually that he had been "much amused at it: " which
was an impertinence arising from utter ignorance of a
soldier's feelings. Although the resident might be too
timid to employ them, common policy, to say nothing
of courtesy to the regiment, would have dictated an
acknowledgment of their gallant offer. The event
proved that they might have been trusted as implicitly
as one would trust the 42nd Highlanders.
one.
Saturday 27th.-As C. and I were taking our evening
ride on the elephant, we saw a small funeral train
coming across the sandy plain, and followed it. The
Muhammadan burial-ground lies south from our house,
and before reaching it the bearers set down the charpai
on which the body lay. It was a young woman who
had died in childbirth. The scene was a most desolate
A kind of valley of sand, sloping down from the
desert-like plain, with the burial-ground a little further
on, marked only by broken hillocks of sand, and a few
stunted trees, which the friends of the dead have planted
near their graves. Most of the company went up a
little ascent to get water to wash previous to prayer.
They then turned to the west, repeated a short Fatiha,
and lifting the body they carried it to the grave, our
Mahout uttering a short invocation as he entered the
burial-ground. They took off the scarlet veil which
EXPOSING TROOPS TO THE SUN.
391
covered the body, and placed it on the shelf which they
always make on one side of the grave. It was so nearly
dark that we did not stay to see them fill it up. Only
men were present.
We have heard again from Major Lawrence, who
expresses the strongest disapprobation of Sir F. Currie's
weak policy. The futility of the pretence that troops
could not be sent to Multan on account of the season
is apparent, for he has ordered plenty of troops up to
Lahore. Her Majesty's 32nd have been marched from
Amballa to Ferozpur, and have suffered very severely
on their march. It is said from 200 to 300 are on the
sick list, and six or seven, including one officer, have
died from a coup de soleil. It is supposed that they
have been unnecessarily exposed to the sun. Queen's
officers are often obstinate on this point (I suppose from
ignorance of the climate), and seem to think it manly
to run every possible risk. A staff officer in China, who
was present on the occasion, told my husband that two
of Her Majesty's regiments were landed under a scorch-
ing sun, and went into action. One was commanded
by an old Indian, who allowed his men to take off their
stocks: they suffered very little from the heat. The
other regiment was commanded by a stiff European
martinet, who could permit no such irregularities, and
lost ten men on the field from apoplexy; surely, in the
case of the 32nd, it would have been better to expose
the troops to this heat for some good purpose. Major
Lawrence considers the force at Lahore ample, not only
to hold their ground in case of attack, but to send a
strong detachment against Multán. Sir F. Currie has
directed the commissariat officer at Ferozpur to discharge
all the cattle which he had collected at great expense
and trouble, merely to avoid the outlay of feeding them
till October, when, if there is a campaign, they will be
needed, and will have to be bought at double price and
probably in far from serviceable condition. Lieutenant
Edwardes has shown what can be done by a man of
energy his newly raised body of Patans have defeated
a large body of Mulraj's troops, taken Dhera Gházi
392
A DEMONSTRATION.
Khán, a gun and many camel swivels. M. Edwardes
says, that if he were allowed, and had the aid of the
Bahawalpur Nuwáb, who is ready and willing to co-ope~
rate with us, he would confine Mulráj to his fort. A
Guru, or Sikh priest, has raised about 400 men: troops
were sent after him, but he evaporated, and was speedily
heard of about thirty-five or forty miles from Lahore
with a much larger force,-some say 1000, some say
3000. A wing of a dragoon regiment and some other
cavalry were sent against him, with orders, if his
men fled to cut them down, and if they made a stand,
not to cut them up, but to wait for reinforcements, in
which case the first move was to be called "a demon-
stration." I told you that we want Govindghar, the
fort of Amritsir. Captain Skinner writes, that when
the troops arrived there, and the sealed orders were
opened, it was found that they were to the effect that
the troops were to march round, and not even through
the town. He says the Sikhs were very much astonished
at seeing them, but perfectly quiet. He mentions the
heat being scarcely bearable: 110° in a double-poled
tent with tatties. C. wrote to Major Lawrence some
time ago, advising him to take measures for calling in
the Afghán tribes at an hour's notice, in case the Sikhs
should revolt; but we have since heard again from him
that everything is quiet. Three Sikh soldiers, who
talked openly of what they would do if their Guru was
successful, he put in irons on the roads, which has won-
derfully damped the courage of the rest.
Hasan Khán returned from Peshawur with his old
wives on Friday (June 2nd), and came to see us directly.
He considers Major Lawrence perfectly safe, and being,
as it were, behind the scenes, his opinion his worth
having. He begged me to visit his sisters child, who is
ill accordingly Mrs. C. and I went there on Saturday
evening; we found he had brought his two sisters and
three wives-all the latter rather ugly. I was glad to
see that he had loaded Leila Bibí with presents—a large
gold ornament for her nose and more than a dozen gold
bracelets, so that she has discarded all her silver ones,
*
VOLUNTEERING.
393
and looked as pretty and happy as possible. The other
sat very quiet. One of the sisters, a handsome, high-
featured woman, wept herself nearly blind on hearing
a false report of her brother's death. She has cataract
forming on one eye. Her poor little baby has been
nearly killed by the journey in this weather and the
jolting of the kajáva: I gave it so ne medicine, but with
small hope of doing it good, and it died two days after :
she does not grieve for it so violently as I feared she
would. They were much pleased with Mrs. C., and one
of them, as she was going out, heartily wished that
"God would bestow children upon her."
As we were taking our evening ride a few days ago,
we saw the camp of the Raní, who has just arrived from
Ferozpur: she has a strong escort and but few attend-
ants. Her tent was a small one, of red kashmir, more
dignified than comfortable.
Monday, June 5th.-Mail arrived. Everything is so
dreadfully sotta sopra in Europe that one knows not
what to expect. It is a matter of great thankfulness
that our own country is so mercifully preserved in peace
and safety. The letters of the dear Von der Deckens
are painfully interesting.
June 9th.-A letter, just received from Major Mac-
keson, says, "I say that your volunteering is very un-
Sikh-like, and I should wish to be at hand when your
gallant 4th storm the breach,—to be at hand and lend
a hand to avenge the murder of poor Agnew. His old
gardener, who is here now with me, when I told him of
his death, said, 'Kya! aisa amír ke marna chalo Sáhíb,
ham bhi chalenghi.' 'What! kill such a gentleman!
go, Sahib; I, too, will go forth.'” I must send you
an extract from the "Dehli Gazette," about our regi-
ment volunteering: I don't know who can have
written it.
Saturday, June 10th.-Another letter from Major
Lawrence this morning, telling us of one he had received
from Lieutenant Edwardes. Imagine the indignation
felt by these gallant men at seeing Sir Frederick Currie
adding fresh fortifications to Laliore, calling for more
s 3
:
394
A BRIDEGROOM.
troops, and not taking one single step for the safety of
his assistants, whose lives at one time appeared to hang
on a thread. He could not move any troops to secure
their safety-could not possibly put down Mulráj on
account of the season; but that was no obstacle to
sending for artillery, cavalry, and infantry, from all
quarters towards Lahore.
.
The Regimental Chowdri has just married his eldest
daughter,—such a nice little girl, about ten or twelve
years old, whom I have often seen. We lent the Chori
some carpets for the occasion, and this morning he
brought the bridegroom, a quiet-looking and very young
Sepáhi, to pay his respects. The said bridegroom was
clad in white upper garment, crimson silk trousers,
kammerband or girdle, and small crimson cap with gold
lace, and a large necklace. Here is a sketch of him
offering his Nazar of rupees, which we touch, and make
a salám, instead of taking.
395
CHAPTER XIII.
Knowing People-Kindness and Unkindness-A Jezailchi's Bones-
Afghans and Sikhs Elephants Henpecked Hindu Asses
Paroquets-Taxes-Poetical Justice Dust Storm-Taxes in Kashmir
Little Prince-Munshi's Translation-Afghan Abuse-Sick Child
Patan Monks-Spoilt Children-Swearing in the Regiment—
Preparing to March-A Chaprasi-" Flittings"-Ants-Scorpion
Bite-Contradictory Orders-Balaam and the Dog-Legend of Sunete
Shopkeepers Prayer Sikh Villages-Ovens -
Gulab Sing-
H. M.'s 29th-Death of Saiad-Murteza Shah-Ham and Jam.
If a
JUNE 14TH.-One learns to know people in India
most thoroughly. Everybody lives, as it were, in a
glass case-every one knows the income, style of living,
debts, and position, of every one else: then there are
so many money transactions-so much buying and
selling between gentlemen constantly going on, that
there are a thousand opportunities of judging of cha-
racter which could never be afforded in England.
man borrows money from any of the banks, and agrees
to pay it by instalments from his pay, his commanding
officer, the Paymaster, and all who make out or see the
Pay Abstracts, know exactly how much is deducted.
If he incur small debts to his servants or others, they
carry the matter before the Court of Requests, which
consists of a certain number of his brother officers. If
he think the rent of his house too high, or quarrels
with his landlord, the matter is referred to a Station
Committee. If a person admire a horse, carriage, or
any piece of furniture, he often bespcaks it "whenever
it is sold;" for on leaving a Station, even for six
396
LIVING IN A GLASS CASE.
months, people generally sell a good deal of their
property.
A succession of marches, or being obliged to buy or
to build a house on pain of having none to live in,
throws the finances of many an officer into confusion;
the wife then often parts with a new dress or some of
her ornaments; and women calling themselves ladies,
can be found, who will beat down the price of jewels
sold under such circumstances, and get them for less
than half their value. Then some people never pay
until they are asked to do so; others put exorbitant
prices on their own things; others profess themselves
much obliged for being allowed to buy a thing which
they forget to pay for; others change their minds, and
beg to be allowed to return their purchase, where the
seller is just starting for Europe! Others give commis-
sions, and then find fault with them, and return them;
so that in a very short time one involuntarily becomes
completely au fait of all one's neighbours' modes of
dealing. Then, in sickness, one is so much more de-
pendent on the kindness of friends than one could ever
be at home. Some characters gain, and some lose, on
this close inspection. Mrs. C. is one of the former. I
hardly ever knew such unwearied sympathising kindness
as she has lately shown to a poor lady who is just dead.
She visited her daily; packed for her when she was
alive, for she was to have started for the hills the very
evening she died; sat by her to the last; with her own
hands assisted in washing and dressing the poor ema-
ciated body, and arranged everything after her death.
She has been like a sister to the poor husband; thought
of everything by which he could be spared pain; and
Mr. C. has shown equal sympathy, and yet they were
comparative strangers; for Mr. C. never saw the poor
husband but once before he drove him down to his
wife's funeral, not one of the officers of his own corps
having offered to do anything, or shown any kind of
feeling. This poor man lately lost an excellent appoint-
ment through the fault of his subaltern, who was ap-
pointed to succeed him! Consequently, having been
庸
​KINDNESS AND UNKINDNESS.
397
extravagant in former days, and being bound to pay
large monthly instalments to the bank, they were
reduced to the greatest distress, having scarcely enough
to live upon. She was ordered to the hills as the only
prospect of saving her life.
(6
I will just give you a few specimens of the treatment
they met with:-They have two boys at school in the
hills. Mr. Monk, with whom they are, begged them
not to think of paying him," and offered Mrs. D. the
loan of a house. A near relation, who is said to have
13007. a year private property, besides 2400 rupees a
month pay, refused her a loan of 200 rupees— on secu-
rity! A serjeant of Horse Artillery from whom Captain
D. had been obliged to borrow 800 rupees-a thing
diametrically opposed to all military rule and etiquette
on his returning 600, wrote to say that he knew Mrs.
D. was going to the hills in bad health; and that as he
thought the money might contribute to her comfort, he
begged leave to return it, and if any more was needed,
he would be most happy to send it to such an amount,
for he never could forget the kindness he had received
from his old commanding officer. This good serjeant
has a wife, and a little child born the other day, and
Captain D. not now being in the same corps, has no
power whatever to benefit him. I think this trait does
honour to human nature.
On Monday morning, C. took Hasan Khán and one
of Ferris's old Jezailchis-who got a rifle ball in his
knee, in the expedition against the Sangu Khail seven
years ago-to Dr. M'Rae's, to see a very severe opera-
tion performed on the poor litlle boy of ten years old,
under the influence of chloroform. The poor child
neither stirred nor felt anything, whereupon the Je-
zailchi, who was very anxious to get rid of the ball in
his knee, declared himself quite ready to be operated
upon. They laid him upon the table, and he snuffed
up the chloroform with such vehemence as to alarm the
doctors, and almost immediately fell asleep and began
to snore. Soon, however, it became a calm, pleasant
slumber. Deep cuts were made, and the ball was found
398
CHLOROFORM.
embedded in a thick and very tough leathery bag, which
it had formed for itself. This being cut through, the
bullet was extracted, and found to have been perfectly
flattened against the iron thigh-bone of this sturdy
Afghán. Dr. M'Rae said he had seen a ball thus flat-
tened against a wall, but never before against a man's
bone. The leg was bandaged, and strong ammonia
applied to the patient's nostrils. He became sick; they
washed his face and beard, sprinkled water over him,
and on his becoming wide awake, asked him what had
been done to him. "Nothing," he said. They showed
him the ball, whereupon he gazed at it in amazement,
and then burst into such a fit of laughter that he fell
back again from excessive mirth. He then sat up, and
made saláms all round to everybody, to the doctors, to
the dressers, to my husband, to Hasan Khan, and to
the other Afgháns, who stood with bright faces, greatly
enjoying the marvellous sight: so they put him into a
Duli, and sent him home. Hasan Khán seemed very
much struck with the liberality of Christian dealings;
and, in spite of his bigotry, could not help saying, “That
is much better than we Mussalmáns: in the first place
we could not do it; and secondly, if we could, we should
require a great reward before doing so." Some time
after he exclaimed, "I see what it is; it is not pure
science (Ilm), but Kimia," i. e. alchemy (by which he
evidently meant necromancy, as alchemy is quite a
lawful science among Mussalmáns); and added,
must be so, for I don't understand it."
"" It
Friday, July 16th.—Abdulrahmán Khán came as
usual this evening. He began to speak of eating, and
to revile "these stupid Hindustanis," as he called them,
for not eating with Christians, saying, "it showed the
blood of their Hindu forefathers." He said to my hus-
band, "If you killed a sheep with your own hands,
would I not eat it? and if you cooked it, would I not
eat it? You are men of the Book." C. showed him
the passage in Matthew, xv. 11, and explained why we
eat all things. He said with much energy, “Haq, haq;
Right, right;" and then added, as he always does,
66
""
THE REGIMENT.
399
"Our book also says the same." This is exactly what
Hasan Khán also thinks proper to add on all occasions,
though he knows nothing whatever of the Kuran or its
contents.
I forgot to tell you that a juggler came some nights.
ago. He did nothing very wonderful. His best feat
was putting water into a queer little vessel, and making
it pour out of the spout or not, as he commanded it.
June 19th.-I went this morning on the elephant to
see the regiment at battalion exercise. I am sure C.'s
word of command could have been heard by three regi-
ments. I wish you could see our corps. It is really
a fine looking one, much finer than the generality of
English regiments of the Line. The average height is
5 ft. 8 in. About five-eighths of them being Sikhs
and Afgháns, they are capable of thrice the work of a
Hindustani regiment. The Afgháns and Sikhs are both
exceedingly hardy, daring men, the former complete
Highlanders, generally rather below than above the
middle size, but excessively strong, wiry, and enduring,
with bones that will flatten bullets. The Sikhs are a
very handsome race, with such fine stout limbs, that I
do not wonder at the Hindustánis calling them "Bara
chalnewálas," "great people for walking." Many of
the women are just what one would fancy the wives of
the Roman people in Rome's palmy days. They are
tall, well made, and strong, with free and noble action.
The Ját (or peasant) women seldom marry before twenty
or one-and-twenty, a great improvement on the fright-
ful Hindu fashion of marrying in early childhood.
I went one morning lately to the old Satlej where
they were bathing the Commissariat elephants. Many
of these huge creatures were lying on their sides in the
water, their keepers standing on them and scrubbing
them with a kind of stone or brick, others were swim-
ming about, and one was quiet immersed in the water,
save the top of his head and the end of his trunk. The
Mahouts were bathing themselves, and certainly civilized
Europeans might take a lesson in decency from them,
for they are always sufficiently clothed, even in the
400
WORSHIP-A HINDU VIRAGO.
water, and are most careful and decorous in dressing on
the banks. One was standing in the stream, praying
with his hands joined and his face towards the rising
sun. He then came on shore for a large leaf-full of
flowers, and returning to the river, he dropped in first a
string of jessamine and roses, and then single flowers,
repeating something to himself all the time. It grieved
me to see this poor idolator. As we were leaving the
river, my elephant, which is a very large female one,
met an old acquaintance, and testified her pleasure by
trumpeting and screaming in a most uncouth fashion,
and then making a noise like purring on a gigantic
scale, which we felt distinctly.
""
The other day, Sital, a Hindú Sáís of ours, came
running to my husband in great fear, saying that his
wife threatened to throw herself into the well to vex
him, and that "then he would be hanged! It seems
she is a complete virago, one of the ugliest women I
ever saw; she beats Sital, keeps him in bodily fear, and
once did actually throw herself into a well. C. assured
him that nothing would be done to him. I suppose the
Dhobi who was hanged for murdering his wife, has
given great preponderance to the female side of the
question in these parts, and made the husbands fancy
they are responsible for the life of their wives in all
cases; so C. added, that she might throw herself in
whenever she liked, only not in this well, for it would
spoil the water and the grave old Khansamán reproved
Sital severely for bringing such domestic matters to the
notice of his master, saying "family quarrels should be
kept quiet."
Tuesday, 20th June.-Yesterday was, I believe, the
first day of the rains, though it is difficult to tell, as we
have had showers every few days lately. The heat was
extreme in the morning with a strong hot wind, then
came a dust-storm, so that we could hardly see even at
the window, and then the welcome sound of "much
rain," so that the evening was delightfully cool: but
with the rain came the musquitoes and the grasshoppers,
and other insects who, in consort with the bull-frogs,
INSECTS-PAROQUETS.
401
make a noise something between bellowing and a choir
of burly monks chanting-which renders the garden
perfectly unendurable to me. The donkeys here have
quite a different physiognomy from European ones, their
faces are much more delicate and "fine," they have
quite a Hindú cast of countenance. We have no less
than three young parrots. One, "Lory," is very timid
and not sociable. Mine, little "Heirámán," or mán of
diamonds (a mán, you know is eighty pounds), is the
most engaging little bird possible. I can hardly get rid
of him, he is always climbing up to my hand or shoulder,
comes and eats out of my plate, goes to sleep on my
bosom when I lie down, wakes me by nibbling my lips,
and coos in the sweetest little note possible whenever
we go near it. The third "Mítú," (sweet), is one which
Baedulla took out of the same nest as Hirá, (they were
both hatched in our verandah, and the parent birds have
often come to feed them), but which he refused to keep
after a time, lest if the poor little thing should be killed
in any way, the sin should rest upon him, so I have
been obliged to relieve his scrupulous conscience of the
responsibility. I had a very long ride on the elephant
this morning from a little after four to seven o'clock.
I went to a village called Sherepur, where there is a
pretty little mosque, plenty of buffaloes, plenty of bark-
ing queer little dogs, and some stout looking inhabitants.
The whole country looked like a brown earthen disc.
with here and there a little sprinkling of trees visible at
the edge of the horizon. I did not pass a single plot of
ground bearing anything, though there were marks of
former ploughing everywhere, so I suppose they bring
forth somewhat at some season of the year.
village were some fine large trees, so they can grow.
In fact, irrigation would change the face of the country.
Under British rule all taxes on merchandize, trade, and
manufactures have been abolished. There are no taxes
whatever in Loodiana, but the owners of land pay the
same as they formerly did under the Sikhs. This is
only a temporary arrangement until the fair rate of
taxation can be settled; but there is this great differ-
In the
402
ATTEMPT TO MURDER- -DUST-STORM.
ence, that there are no "begárs," or forced labour
(corvées in fact): and moreover, there is no insolent.
soldiery to go into the city and tyrannize as they pleased,
and this my Munshí spoke of as one of the greatest
deliverances.
June 22nd. Just after writing this, a man was
brought up charged with having torn off the ornaments
of a woman, and attempting to murder her last night,
close to the lines. A Sikh Sepahí heard her cries and
rushed out to her rescue, when the cowardly assailant
ran off, but the Sikh pursued and caught him; the
poor little woman was young and trembled like a leaf,
so that C., fearing she would not tell the whole truth
before the magistrate from fear of being murdered, and
the man having the effrontery to deny the whole, though
her arms were all discoloured with the violence used
towards her, snatched a stick out of the Havildár's
hand and bestowed two such blows on the culprit that
they knocked him down, and "next time" he certainly
will not attempt a robbery close to the Sikh Lines.
C. commended the Sepahí, and kindly encouraged the
poor woman, and having thus, as far as in him lay, dis-
tributed due poetical justice, he despatched the whole
party under charge of a Havildár, to obtain the best
approximation thereto which may be procurable from
the hands of the Deputy-Commissioner. I suppose it
is called poetical justice, from being so seldom found in
the region of fact.
The regiment was to have been paid this morning,
but a dust-storm arose about one P.M., and after lasting
nine hours, is now going off without bringing any rain,
so the monsoon has not yet come. We might almost
as well have slept on the high road, for the bed, floor,
and everything in the room was loaded with dust, and
our servants are so lamentably dirty, that I doubt if
you would let one of them come near you.
We are,
however, not much better ourselves, and there was some
doubt whether we should have breakfast. A Munshí,
who accompanied two of Lord Hardinge's sons in a tour
they made to Kashmir, wrote a very good journal, which
TAXES IN KASHMIR
·LITTLE PRINCE.
403
has been translated and lent to us. He gives some
details of the excessive taxation under which the people
of Kashmir groan. The town is surrounded by moun-
tains, through which there are only four or five passes,
only one of which is open in winter, and no one is
allowed to leave the country without permission. The
chief revenue of government is derived from the shawl
manufacture, which brings in a return of about 807,500
Harrí Singhí rupees (of 10 annas or about 1s. 3d. each)
besides 11,000 more from the border makers. Mer-
chants with capital pay 148 Harrí Singhí rupees per
shop; five workmen are reckoned as two shops, and
their wages vary from two to six annas a day. The
average annual tax on each workman is thus nearly 59
rupees; the total number of shops of these capitalists
is about 3,500, and the total receipt from them to
government about 600,000 rupees. An inferior kind
of shawl is made by those who, having no capital of
their own, obtain advances from Government; but the
best quality is only to be obtained by commission and
advance of money. Coin is shamefully alloyed in
Kashmir; everything is taxed, and inhabitants of almost
all classes taxed from one to two rupees a head monthly;
even grasscutters, fruitsellers, and corngrinders, the very
poorest of the people. Caste is but little attended to,
there are no Hindús but Pandits, but little distinction
is made between them and Mussalmàns.
July. A sweet little boy, a son of the Shahzadeh
Shahpur, about five years old, was brought here the
other day to be prescribed for. He had a bad eruption
on his face which, fortunately, the remedies I gave have
quite obliterated. The first time he came he was a
little frightened, and said Salem Aleikúm a great many
times. C. put him in an armchair, and he asked with
a little soft timid voice, "Do you hold me for a friend?"
C. assured him that he did, and that he was a very great
friend of his and of his father's; but when I came with
the medicine and a little spoon, he asked rather anxi-
ously, "That one, what will she do?"
He was very
prettily dressed, with a curious square cap, gold at the
404
THE MUNSHI'S TRANSLATIONS.
top, and black velvet sides, which I believe is a mark of
royalty. The next time he came, his mother had twisted
up a crimson crêpe veil, with gold fringes, into a
turban for him, and he looked very pretty. He now
seems quite at his ease, and is like most Afghán chil-
dren of rank, remarkably self-possessed and courteous
in manner.
I forgot to tell you of a translation of the Munshi's
that amused me very much. The word the natives use
for health is "Mizáj," which means temperament or
constitution, but the Munshí, interpreting a letter from
Hasan Khán, in which he inquired for me, instead of
"exalted health," turned it into "your high temper,"
at which I had some difficulty to look grave. C. was
speaking to two of our servants, one a Hindu and the
other a Mussalmán, on the subject of cheating and false-
hood. They both acknowledge that they never knew
one of their countrymen whom they could really trust
on either particular. The Hindu added, however, "Some
Sáhibs tell lies, too." They heartily agree that their
respective priests and religious men were even worse
than the rest, and they acknowledged that some white.
people never told lies. (They quite understand the dif
ference between real and nominal Christians.) I never
knew such keen observers as the natives; they are ex-
cellent judges of character, and know perfectly what is,
or is not, forbidden by our religion. I was astonished
the other day by hearing an Afghán talking most vehe-
mently at the door. He had been introduced by Hasan
Khán, and had brought two young men as recruits who
proved too short, and, therefore, could not be enlisted.
Upon this he became furious, and not liking exactly to
abuse my husband to his face, he turned on Hasan Khán
who was present, and reviled him bitterly. "You," he
said, "who have got into such favour with the Ferignhis
by killing numbers of your own people, you say that
you and Mackenzie Sáhib are brothers, that you are
one identical, and you can't get two men into his regi-
ment!" Hasan Khán only sat and laughed, for fiery as
they are, the Afgháns seem to think nothing of an
AFGHAN ABUSE-NATIVE HOUSE.
405
amount of abuse and vituperation that would drive a
European into a state of frenzy. Hasan Khán was one
day abusing Amir Khán, the Naib Jemádár, calling him
a coward, mimicking him, and showing how he had
hidden himself. Amír Khán, being just round the
corner of the house, heard every word and only laughed,
and one of Hasan Khán's followers, after hearing it all,
came and tenderly embraced the vituperated man at
taking leave The Havildárs, however, who were pre-
sent when this stormy Afghán thus vented his indigna-
tion indirectly at their commandant, stood perfectly
aghast, and the Munshí's face was turned upside down.
Most officers, accustomed only to the polite courteous
Hindustanis, would have thought themselves affronted,
but C. knowing the Afgháns, only bade him not make
so much noise.
The old bed of the Satlej, whch still contains a narrow
stream, is quite a cheerful scene with its white paddy
birds, bathers, its picturesque little temple, surrounded
by a few trees, horses being watered, buffaloes grazing,
and Dhobis, or washermen, diligently beating linen on
furrowed planks-no wonder they tear the clothes!
All this appeared quite refreshing and delightful after
incessant sand.
July 5th.-Went to see the child of a Binder to whom,
about ten days ago, a native quack gave two great pills
of Bhang and then opium, the consequence is, that he
has continued almost insensible ever since. I sent him
some strong coffee to drink and camphor to smell, and
the father reports him better this afternoon. As the
poor man had nothing but a mere hut, the Binding
Contractor had lent him his best room, and where two
armchairs were placed for us. It was large, but as
usual had no other furniture than a bolster. It had
two small windows close to the floor. When we went
again in the evening the poor child was better, and soon
after got quite well. Had a most curious ride home
through all kind of out-of-the-way streets and places,
and from our lofty howdah we looked down on the flat
roofs of most of the houses and over into the little
406
SPOILT CHILDREN.
courts, we could have touched the walls on either side
had they been high enough. The scene was like a fair
at night-the streets crowded, a light in every house,
and several in each of the innumerable shops of eatables.
All the sellers were at their posts, though many who
had nothing to sell and probably little to buy, had
already laid down for the night, and through all the wise
quict elephant pursued its plodding way, never jostling
or hurting any one. I have never seen anything like
violence or quarrelling among the natives since I came
to India, always excepting the perpetual Kashmírí
scolding matches and occasional exhibitions of the same
kind among the Hindustánis. It was nearly dark, for
the moon was but five days old, so that when we came
upon two or three ancient heavy Patan mosques, the
effect was so quiet and solemn that one could hardly
fancy oneself so near such a busy lively scene as the
Bazár presented. I conclude Loodiana is prospering,
for they are building in various directions. A new
mosque has been erected inside the Serai since I went
there last year, and they seem to be making gutters and
sewers in the town.
C.'s regiment is now employed on various duties.
Some are on guard at the Kacheri, and I wish you could
see the extraordinary zeal with which they turn out and
present arms. The musket gets such a slap that even
I hear it many feet off. Certainly the Sikhs are a most
energetic people. I wonder if they spoil their children
as the Hindustanis do.
My Munshi's little boy was ill, and I told him he
must be careful not to let him cat ghi and mitai (sweet-
meats). He remained in doubt, and then asked me
gravely what he should do if the child would have
sweetmeats; because, added he, he will cry, and I love
him so much I cannot refuse him anything. He also
inquired if he might put sugar in the water, or "else
perhaps he will not drink it." I was quite at a loss for
any measures which had the least chance of being
adopted in such a state of domestic discipline, which,
however, is the prevailing one throughout India.
SWEARING IN THE REGIMENT.
407
There was a slight earthquake here yesterday morn-
ing, so slight that I, who was standing, did not feel it,
but my husband and the Babu in the next room, who
were both seated, distinctly felt the tremor.
I went the other morning to see about three hunderd
Sikhs of the regiment sworn in. A man carried the
Granth (their sacred book) wrapped in a white cloth,
on a small Charpai, upon his head, the Granthi gravely
following it with a chouri, or fly-flap of horsehair, with
which he drove away the flies from it. The Bearer
walked to the front of each company, and as many men
as could conveniently stand round it slipped off their
shoes, touched the book with one or both hands, made
salám to it, and then kept their hands either on it or
its Charpai while the Granthi read the oath. Each man
said, “I, so and so, son of such a one, of such village,
and such a Pergannah (district), swear to be faithful to
my salt, &c. They then made another salám to the
Granthi, stepped back and got into their shoes, aud C.
made them a short speech.
Dr. Turnbull, of the Sappers, has just returned from
escorting the Rani to Amballa. The heat in tents was
so great, that a tumbler which had been standing on
the table, when filled with water from a jar in the tatti,
split as if it had been ice.
July 8th.—A letter from Lahore tells us of another
fight in which Mulráj has been worsted, which is a
cause of thankfulness.
August 1st, 1848.--My husband was with the C.'s
when the adjutant of the Sappers and Pioneers came over
and said they were to march the following evening for
Multán. Mrs. C. behaved exceedingly well. She neither
wept nor said anything, only drew a deep sigh. They
begged us to go to them both that and the following
evening, which we did. The second evening, when Mr.
C. expected to march at eleven, the confusion was great,
camels loading, bedding-boxes, everything lying about.
Mrs. C. had been packing for two whole days, her hus-
band, incessantly occupied as Quartermaster and Inter-
preter, had hardly one minute to himself or his own
408
A CHAPRASI.
affairs. Their table servants refused to go with him, so
I sent one of ours on a camel to fetch a relation of his
from a village, together with some goats, and when we
had thus caught a Khidmatgár, and he was waiting till
Mr. C. could speak to him, the old servants, who began
to repent, sent him away, so at the last moment there
was none. C. summoned an Afghán whom he had got.
a few days previously as Chowkedar, or watchman, for
the C.'s, and told him he must go on the march.
"Bechasm," he said, "on my eyes be it. I will only
fetch my clothes and my gun.' C. desired him to
leave his gun with Hasan Khán, as his sword would be
sufficient, and he came back, I think in less than an
hour, quite ready.
""
C. also sent for a very clever servant of Major Pot-
inger's, who was with him at Charekar, Dasundee by
name, commonly called Jeswanti, a man of this country
who was with him in captivity, and who, when Akbar's
standard fell down by accident at Tezin, shouted out
"Shahbash!" in defiance of consequences.
He was afterwards employed as Chaprasi by Sir
Richmond Shakespeare, and gained much credit by
capturing a noted robber, and then getting leave for a
few months, he stayed away between two and three
ycars, thus losing a good place for no reason whatever.
not long ago he came to us, and has been staying until
C. could get employment for him. The 8th cavalry have
since left, so that nothing but disconsolate ladies remain.
This is a good proof that troops can march in hot
weather, for it is a more trying season now than it was
in May.
We began making preparations for moving into Mrs.
C.'s house, and did so on the 20th of July, with no
other adventure than having the cart which went to and
fro with our baggage seized by the Tahsildar, during the
momentary absence of the Sepáhí who accompanied it.
My husband immediately wrote a peremptory order for
its restoration, and when we got it back made two
Sepahís with fixed bayonet guard it on its journeys.
The next morning there was a curious flitting.
"FLITTING."
409
About half-past five I went over on the elephant,
taking Louisa Silvester and "Nel" with me. In the
back seat were three folding chairs and a pair of silver
candlesticks, and we were preceded by two Dhobis, car-
rying our clothes on a charpai, four Kulis with a table
turned upside down, and filled with books, on their
heads, divers people whose identity was lost under
the bundles they carried, and an Orderly gravely march-
ing along with our three little parrots in a cage, looking
like Horace Vernet's foraging recruit. By the evening
we were almost settled. It is a very large house, in the
old 50th Lines, in the most airy situation in Loodiana.
The rooms are very large and lofty, and the whole house
much cooler than our former one. The verandahs are
magnificent.
Miss W., Mrs. C.'s sister, arrived about a week after,
and we like her extremely.
We have had one or two
showers of heavy rain, which is a great blessing, as
without rain a famine would certainly have ensued, but
in consequence of one of these showers such swarms of
white ants, in their winged state, made their appearance
one evening, that we were fairly driven out of the house,
and took our tea in the garden. One of the tea cups
on the dining-table was half full of them: they disap-
peared the next day.
If it were not a pity to kill them, I would send you
specimens of some of the grasshopper and other insects,
which are quite beautiful. One with brilliant green
and yellow bands all over its body, has its inner wings
of a beautiful red gauze-like texture; another is pale
green, with a most curious head; another is most beau-
tifully sparkled.
The night after we came up here the wife of one of
the Sais was bitten by a large scorpion on the finger.
She was in great pain when she came to us, but Mr. C.
applied a paste of ipecacuanha and water, and covered
the wound with it, which relieved the pain almost
immediately.
The heat on the march to Ferozpur was by no means
VOL. I.
T
·
410
SCORPION-BITE-CONTRADICTORY ORDERS.
so great as they anticipated, but the confusion at
Ferozpur was almost beyond description. Contradictory
orders came from the Commander-in-Chief, the General
of Division, and the Commandant of the Station-one
day the Sappers were to march by the right bank, the
next by the left, then they were to go by water, then
they were told to do as they liked. The Quartermaster,
in despair, went to Captain F., who is Brigade-Major,
to ask what he was to do; and the latter could only
comfort him by showing the orders he himself had
received, which were equally contradictory and incom-
prehensible. After all they were sent by water, and we
have at last heard of their arrival at Bhawalpur, where
they expect to have to wait a month for the siege train.
Then the 8th Cavalry were ordered from Loodiana to
Ferozpur; they started with only half the carriage
required, and twelve hours after came a counter-order,
desiring them not to move, if they had not already
left. They were only ten miles off, stopped by rain
and want of carriage, still the Brigadier could not recall
them.
August 10th. The other day my husband read the
"History of Balaam " to the Munshi, the latter added
a Musalmán finale to it, by gravely relating that there
was once a most virtuous dog, and as it was impossible
that the body of a prophet could be sent to hell, there-
fore to reward the dog and punish Balaam, the dog's
soul was put into Balaam's body, and went to paradise,
while the soul of Balaam was despatched in the body of
the dog to hell.
Wednesday, August 8th.-We rode to the site of an
ancient city called Sunète. A little village of the same
name, and of only fifty houses now stands there. Tra-
dition say that this was a great idolatrous city, whose
Rajah, among other atrocities, daily devoured a man for
his dinner. A neighbouring Wali at length prayed for
vengeance on this impious Rajah and his people-an
earthquake swallowed them up and desolated the city,
which is now a succession of hills of pounded brick, no
"O GREAT STOOL.”
411
other trace of buildings being visible. It is also full of
scorpions.
I have just heard a fact, which at first I thought was
meant as a jest, until C. assured me it was true. The
Baniáhs (or shopkeepers) on opening their shops in the
morning, are in the habit of worshipping the little stool
on which they sit (all Hindús occasionally worship the
implements of their calling), and pray "O great stool!
send me to-day many customers with full purses and
empty heads!
We passed a Faqir's dwelling as we
came home from our ride; some of them were plough-
ing, others smoking. I did not know before that they
ever combined labour and begging.
The Sikhs seem an active enterprising people. Near
one village we found a little plantation that the Tamín-
dárs were rearing with care, having procured them from
cantonments. All their villages seem to be walled, so
that from the outside a long high mud wall is often all
that is to be seen of them. There is generally a gate
at each end. Within, the houses are very closely
packed, each with a little yard of its own, which is
generally full of very lean cattle, many of them buffa-
loes. Sometimes it is a puzzle to find out how the
cattle ever got in, or how they were ever to get out
again. The streets are so narrow that it required all
our huge elephant's care and caution to move along
without knocking down the rain-spouts on the one hand,
or the cakes of manure, drying on the top of the wall,
on the other.
September 2d.-We had a delightful ride among
green lanes that were quite refreshing to our eyes.
Bow and Nel accompany us and sometimes chase a
wild buck, sometimes a tame cat, and sometimes have
a fight with the numerous noisy Pariáh dogs which
infest the villages.
Miss W. tells me that in the villages near Nákoda,
the people have one common oven (i. e. a deep pit such
as they have here), which, when thoroughly heated, is
opened, and cach woman, with her vessel of flour and
412
THE HAZARA-GULAB SING.
water on her head, claps her chapátis against the side
of it, identifying them by some particular mark. The
oven is then shut, and you may fancy the gossiping
which takes place while the cakes are baking. They
keep their cattle, grain, and fodder in like manner in
common, each man having his own stack, or his own
cattle, in the public enclosure. This is an excellent
protection against private pilfering. The Márwátis, a
tribe near the hills, and in the lowlands at the foot of
them, which are called the Teraì, are noted cattle-lifters,
Mr. W., the indefatigable magistrate of Morádábád,
has nearly suppressed cattle-stealing in his district, by
making every village responsible for every head of
cattle which could be traced as having entered its
boundaries.
General Whish's
Nothing interesting from Multán.
force has been there a long while, that from Loodiana
has also arrived, and they are now waiting for the siege
train, very much like "Sir Richard waiting for the Earl
of Chatham." In the meantime an outbreak has taken
place in the Hazáreh country. Captain Abbot said he
could put it down without assistance, but Major Law-
rence and Lieutenant Nicholson are both of opinion
that British troops will be necessary, and Major L.
has written to urge Sir F. Currie to send them imme-
diately.
Since we received his letter we hear that Captain
Abbot is in full flight, and that Chattar Sing, the leader
of the Hazára insurgents, is threatening Láhore. Almost
all the troops here expect to be moved onwards, and
those in Jellander are ready to start at a moment's
notice. That crafty old tyrant, Guláb Sing, is gather-
ing an army, ostensibly to act against Chattar Sing,
but as many of his troops have joined Chattar Sing, one
cannot place much faith in his assertions that he cannot
control them. I believe he is just waiting to see which
end of the scale is the heaviest. The annexation of the
Panjab is spoken off as certain, and I hope Kashmir
will be included, for hardly any country in the world
SAIA MURTEZA'S DEATH.
413
groans under greater oppression and extortion of every
kind than poor Kahmir.
7th. The siege at Multán was expected to begin in
earnest about this date. He is incessantlyc arrying off
camels from our force. H. M.'s 29th came in the other
morning: we found them parading on the high road,
and were, therefore, obliged to stop. One's heart
warmed to a regiment of one's own countrymen. They
looked mere boys; there was hardly a whisker or a head
of dark hair to be seen down the whole line: they struck
me as remarkably smart looking and clean. I believe
it is considered a "crack regiment." The men are very
much undersized, after the Hindustani regiments: there
was a huge Bengal Grenadier standing by, who looked
a perfect giant.
September 8th.-We have been much grieved at
hearing of the death of Saiad Murteza Shah, in Cal-
cutta. He was the main instrument of obtaining the
release of the hostages and prisoners in Afghánistan,
and within the last two years he was sent, at the great
peril of his life, by Lord Hardinge to Kábul, where he
succeeded in rescuing upwards of 100 children of our
Sepáhis and camp followers (among them an English
boy). His young son, Saiad Reza Khán, has deter-
mined on going to Calcutta, to endeavour to obtain a
continuation of his father's pension for himself and his
numerous brothers and sisters. We have given him as
many letters of introduction as we could.
I was much amused at a story Mrs. C. related to me
of one of her uncles, a civilian, who was extremely par-
ticular about high caste servants, and who treated them
magnificently, dressed them in English broadcloth, &c.
This pearl of masters once gave a dinner party, and the
dinner being delayed long after his guests were assem-
bled, he proceeded himself to the kitchen to discover
the reason. There he found all his servants standing
in a row, with their backs towards him, each man proving
his orthodoxy by solemnly spitting in rotation on a fine
ham, which was about to be served up to the company!
414
HAM AND JAM.
Now observe that this excess of Musalmán “zeal "" was
manifested by a whole party; but man in society and
man in solitude are different beings, as was proved by
a lady, who discovered her Khansáman eating a thick
slice of ham covered with raspberry jam !
END OF VOL. I.
PRINTED BY HARRISON AND SONS, LONDON GAZETTE OFFICE, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.
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