1
ARTES
LIBRARY
(1837)
VERITAS
SCIENTIA
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
EL PLURIOUS UNUM
TUEBOR
SI·QUÆRIS·PENINSULAM AMŒNAM.
CIRCUMSPICE
/
!
!
!
THE
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
THE
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
:
DRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS
OF THE
MINISTERS
OF THE
DIFFERENT PARISHES.
BY SIR JOHN SINCLAIR, BART.
VOLUME SIXTEENTH.
"Ad confilium de republica dandum, caput eft noffe rempublicam."
CICERO, de Orat. lib. ii.
EDINBURGH:
PRINTED AND SOLD BY WILLIAM CREECH;
AND ALSO SOLD BY J. DONALDSON, A. GUTHRIE, AND JO. FAIR-
BAIRN, EDINBURGH; T. CADELL, J. DEBRETT,
AND J.
SEWEL, LONDON; DUNLOP AND WILSON, GLASGOW;
ANGUS AND SON, ABERDEEN.
M,DCC,XCV,
i
•
14
Safer st
VAS
Then
6-29.25
17403
[vii]
CONTENT S.
No.
Name.
Population in 1755. in 1794-5. Increaſe. Dec Page.
1 Inveresk,
2 Heriot,
3 Caſtletown,
4 Forgan,
5 Killearn,
4645 5392
747
I
209
300
91
50
1507
1418
89
60
751
875
124
88
957
973
16
100
6 Newburn,
438
456
18
130
7 Portree,
1385
1980 595
138
8 Affint,
1934 3000
1066
163
9 Effie and Nevay,
625!
630
5
212
10 Strath,
943
1579 636
222
II Bowden,
672
860
188
230
12 Anftruther Eaſter,
1000
1000
243
13 Hoy and Græmfay,
680
410
270 245
14 Weftray,
1290
1629 339
251
15 Glenelg,
1816
2746 930
265
16 Whithorn,
1300
1890
590
275
17 Bothwell,
1561
2707 1146
299
18 Rafford,
1313
1072
241 338
19. Whitfom and Hilton,
399
590 191
348
20 Peterculter,
755 1002 247
358
21 Sandwick and
• Stromnefs,
3000
3012 |
12
409
22 Deer,
2813
3267
454
469
23 Legerwood,
398
422
24
484
24 Temple,
905
593
312
497
25 Morbattle,
789 789
504
26 Wemyss,
3041
3025
16
513
27 Sleat,
28 Peterhead,
29 Lonmay,
30 Premnay,
1250 1788 538
534
2487 4100 1613
541
1674 1650
24 631
448 450
2
637
Totals,
40985 496059572
40285 952
952
Increaſe in 1794-5,
86208620
མ །
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
O F
SCOTLAND,
PART XVI.
į
NUMBER I.
PARISH OF INVERESK,
(COUNTY OF MID-LOTHIAN, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND
TWEEDDALE, PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH.)
By the Rev. Dr ALEXANDER CARLYLE, Minifter.
THE
Names, Situation, River, Hill, &c.
HE Gaelic derivation of Inver, in fome of the Sta-
tiſtical Accounts, makes it fignify the fame as
Inner, a field fit for tillage. In the low country of
Scotland, it ſeems rather to fignify, The Mouth of a
River, or The Confluence of two Rivers; and if Inveresk
is not of Celtic original, there is no other name of any
place in the pariſh, that has the leaft affinity to that lan-
guage. Agreeably to this derivation, the name of IN-
VERESK marks its fituation on the lower part of the
river Eſk, which falls in two ſtreams from the moun-
VOL. XVI.
tains
A
Statistical Account
L
tains of Morfit on the S. and Pentland on the N. that
bound the great vale of Mid-Lothian, meet in Dal-
keith Park near the confines of this parish, and flow to-
gether through a beautiful vale to the fea; within half a
mile of which, the river is interrupted in its courſe, by the
hill where the church and village of Invereſk ſtand. Round
this hill the ſtream circulates to the W., when turning the
Point, and running between Muffelburgh and Fiſherrow,
in the direction of N. E., it falls into the ſea a quarter of a
mile below theſe towns. Musselburgh has derived its
name from an extenfive muſcle bank, which lies in the fea
below the town, and was probably the cauſe of its early
population; as, even at this day, it affords a great relief to
the poorer inhabitants in times of fcarcity, and at all times.
ſupplies the tables of the rich with a delicate variety. This
parish lies in a femicircular form, on the bottom of the
deepeſt bay on the S. fide of the frith of Forth, the ſtring
of the bow extending two miles and a half, from Mag-
dalene Bridge on the W. to Ravenfhaw Burn on the E.,
which divides the county of Edinburgh, or Mid-Lothian,
from that of Eaft Lothian. The bow itſelf, taking the
middle of the ſtring as a centre, reaches nearly to the fame
diſtance, of 24 miles from the fea.
Profpects, &c.-The fituation of this parish is one of the
moſt beautiful in Scotland. The low part of it is only a
few feet above the level of the fea; between which, and
the towns of Muffelburgh and Fiſherrow, lie very ſpacious
and pleaſant links, thofe beautiful downs on the fea-fhore,
almoft peculiar to Scotland, which furnish a field for that
favourite exerciſe of the inhabitants, the golf, and dry
walks at all feafons of the year. Behind this flat or plain,
through which the river runs into the fea, and which is about
half
of Inveresk.
3
1
half a mile in breadth, there is a fine rifing ground, which
begins at the eaſtern extremity of the parish, and extends
in a fwelling curve to the hill of Inveresk, where ftand
the village of that name, and the church of St Michael's.
The S. fide of this hill takes alſo the form of a creſcent, fo
that all the houſes on that fide have a full view of the
woods of Dalkeith Park, and the extenſive country to the
fouth, as well as of the haugh and river, and their own
floping gardens.
Climate, &c.-This fituation makes the village not only
agreeable, but healthy, and obtained for it of old the name
of the Montpellier of Scotland. The foil of the plain, eſpe-
cially about Muffelburgh, being remarkably dry, and a
conftant brilliancy and freſhneſs flowing from the river and
the adjacent ſea, there is a ſoftneſs and amenity in the air
through the whole ſeaſon, that is feldom to be met with in
any other fituation in this northern climate. Beyond the
village of Inverefk, to the S. E., lie extenfive and well cul-
tivated fields, bounded at the diſtance of two miles, by the
hills of Falfide and Carberry, which terminate a long fer-
tile ridge, that begins to rife 5 or 6 miles to the eastward;
and the latter of which is the higheſt ground in this pariſh,
being 540 feet above the level of the fea. To the S. and
W. of the river, lie fertile fields equally well cultivated,
terminated by the extenfive park and domain of Dalkeith;
a confiderable part of which, (viz. what was formerly Smea
ton and Caftle-fteads), lies in this parish.
Antiquities.-The Romans did not fail to obferve the
fortunate fituation of the hill of Invereík, which, though
not more than 50 feet above the level of the fea, commands
an extenſive view, not only of the adjacent country, but of
the ſpacious baſon of the Frith, which is there about 18
miles
4
Statistical Account
miles broad, and of the coaft of Fife, from Burntifland to
the mouth of the Frith. Hiftory affures us, that they had
a ſtation here, and repeated difcoveries * point out the ſpot
where
*At different times Roman coins, and once an altar, with this infcrip
tion, Apollini Granio, have been found in levelling the adjacent grounds.
But if there had remained any doubt, concerning the fituation of this Ro-
man fort, it was fully cleared up a few years ago, when the proprietor of
the villa had occafion to take two or three feet off the furface of his par-
terre, when there were diſcovered the floors and foundations of various.
buildings. The owner being abfent, attending his duty in Parliament,
the workmen were prevailed upon, by the author of this account, to clear
the earth carefully away from one of them, and to leave the ruins ſtanding
for fome time, for the infpection of the curious. It was found to be a
Roman bath of two rooms. The ſuperſtructure had been thrown down
and removed, but the floor remained entire, and about 6 inches high of
the wall of the ſmalleſt room, which was 9 feet long, and 4 wide. There
was a communication through the partition wall for water, by an earthen
pipe. The other room was 15 feet by 9. The floors of theſe, and of the
other rooms, were covered with tarras uniformly laid on, about two
inches thick. Below this coat there was a coarfer fort of lime and
gravel five inches deep, laid upon unshapely and unjointed flags. This
floor ftood on pillars two feet high, fome of ftone, and fome of circular
bricks. The earth had been removed to come to a folid foundation, on
which to erect the pillars. Under the tarras of the fmalleft room there
was a coarfer tarras, fully 10 inches thick, which feemed intended to
fuftain or bear a more confiderable fire under it, than the Hypocauftum of
the largeſt room. There appeared to have been large fires under it, as
the pillars were injured by them, and there was found a quantity of char
coal in perfect prefervation.
The Hypocaustum of the larger room, or ſpace under the tarras'd floor,
was filled with earth, and with filews made of clay, which were laid every
where between the rows of pillars, and were a little difcoloured
with ſmoke; a fmaller degree of heat having been conveyed through
them, than through thofe under the other room. But theſe contrivances
under the floors feem only to have been intended to preferve heat in the
water, which had been carried warm from a kettle, built up or hung on
brick work, on one fide of the largest room. This brick work was much
injured by ftrong fires, and was four feet fquare.
This
of Inveresk.
5
where the Prætorium was built. It was undoubtedly on
the fummit of the hill where the church now ftands, and
included that beautiful villa that lies to the eastward of it;
a hollow road, which, till about 35 years ago, paffed within
three yards of that villa, having moft likely been the foffé
of the prætorium. It is now included in the garden and
pleaſure ground. The church, of which the antiquity is
not known, and which is called St Michael's of Inveresk,
has probably been built out of the ruins of that ancient
Roman edifice.-A building of high antiquity was fituated
at the east end of Muffelburgh, which belonged to the
abbacy of Dunfermline. It was called the Chapel of Lo-
retto. There are no remains of it now but a ſmall cell,
about 12 feet by 10, covered by a mount, in the garden of
the gentleman who is now in poffeffion of the villa called
Loretto. Soon after the Reformation, about the year 1590,
the tolbooth of Muffelburgh was built out of the ruins of
this
This feems to have been a kind of building ufed by the Romans only for
temporary uſe. The cement, or tarras, fufficiently proves by whom it
was made, as the Roman compofition of that kind is fuperior to any of
later ages. It is remarkable, that the tarras of the grand fewers under
the city of Rome is of the fame kind; and it is related by travellers, that
in the very ancient buildings in the kingdom of Bengal, the very fame
fort has been uſed. Two medals were found among the ruins, now in
the poffeffion of Robert Colt, Eſq; owner of the villa; one of gold, much
defaced, which is fuppofed to be of Trajan; another of copper, on which
the inſcription is clear, Diva Faustina. There are traditional accounts,
that in digging foundations of houſes in Fiſherrow, there have been found
fimilar ruins of Hypocaufta, which afford a proof, that this ſtation was not
merely military, but was a Colonia Romana or Municipium; that they had
many houſes and buildings near the fea, as well as their prætorium at
Inveresk; and that one of their principal harbours on this fide of the
Frith was at Fisherrow. From that harbour, fituated where there is one
at prefent, there was a Roman cauſeway, (the traces of which remained
within the memory of fome ſtill living), which led to their camp at
Sheriff-hall, three miles S. W, and onwards to Borthwick.
6
Statiſtical Account
this chapel, which must have been of confiderable dimen-
fions. The old fteps of the ftair, which was repaired not
long fince, were the bafes of the pillars of this chapel,
according to the report of maſons ſtill living. This is
faid to have been the firſt religious houfe in Scotland,
whofe ruins were applied to an unhallowed uſe*, for
which the good people of Muffelburgh are faid to have
been annually excommunicated, till very lately, at Rome.
Hiſtory affures us, that RANDOLPH Earl of Murray died
in Muffelburgh of the ftone, in July 1332, and tradition
points out the houſe where he died, near the eaſt end of the
town, on the fouth fide. It is a vaulted houſe, of two rooms
on the ground floor; the rooms are about 14 feet ſquare,
and the arch 8 feet high, with a paffage between them 6
feet wide. This might well have been the beſt houſe in
the town 460 years ago +. Tradition alfo fays, that the
inhabitants having formed a guard round the houſe, during
the illneſs of this great man, they found fuch favour with
the Earl of Mar, the fucceeding regent, that he granted, or
obtained for them, their firſt charter.
In this parish lies the field of the battle of Pinkie‡, which
was fought in the year 1547, when Queen Mary was an
infant, with ſuch diſadvantage to the Scots.
Carberry
*Till about 30 years ago there was a middle row of houfes eastward
from the Tolbooth, one of which had been a chapel, called Chapel Gavel.
There were various other old chapels in different fituations; one in a
garden in the weft end of Market-gate, and one in New Hailes grounds,
called Magdalene Chapel, near to Magdalene Bridge, of which there are
now no remains; befides an alms-houſe in Market-gate, which is now a
dwelling-houſe.
† A drawing of it is fubjoined.
‡ PATON'S Journal, of which there is a 'copy in the Advocates Library,
gives a very particular account of this battle, and points out the ſtate of
this
II
feet Arch
top to fl
fect
42 feet
over
feel
Arch
For the 16th Vol. of
SIR JOHN SINCLAIR'S Statistical
Account of SCOTLAND.
A Plan of the House now : the east end of Mussleburgh
in which RANDOLPH EARL of M
of MURRAY Died July 1332
foot
20 feet
over
VOL. XVI. Ia á.
of Inveresk.
7
Carberry Hill.-Juſt over the field of battle there is a
hill, which was ftill more fatal to Queen Mary, and has
been known ever fince by the name of the Queen's Seat.
It is the top of the hill of Carberry, where that unfortunate
Princess fat on a ſtone, and held a conference with Kirk-
caldy of Grange, who had been commiffioned for that pur-
poſe by the confederate Lords. During this parley, Both-
well, who had taken leave of the Queen for the laſt time,
rode off the field to Dunbar. As foon as he was out of
danger, Mary fuffered herſelf to be led by Kirkcaldy to
Morton and the Lords, who received her with due marks
of reſpect, and ample promiſes of future loyalty and obe-
dience. The fequel is well known. From that hour ſhe
was deprived of liberty for life, except for the few days
that intervened, between her eſcape from Lochleven Caſtle,
and her furrender to Elizabeth, after the fatal battle of
Langfide.
this parish at the time. It was fought on the field that lies between the
village of Inverefk and Walliford, and Carberry; and was brought on by
the ufual impetuofity of the Scots, who would not wait till the English
army, who were beginning to run fhort of provifions, had been obliged to
return home. The Scottish army were encamped on that large field weft
of the Efk, which went by the name of Edminſtone Edge; the English
lay at the places now called Drummore and Walliford. As the Scots.
paffed the bridge of Muffelburgh, and marched to the field up the hill of
Invereſk, on the weſt ſide of the church, there being then no village, and
only two shepherds houfes on that hill, they were annoyed by cannon fhot
from the English gallies in the bay; infomuch, that the Lord Graham,
eldeft fon of the firſt Earl of Montrofe, was killed on the bridge, with
many of his followers. To have croffed the river at any other place, would
have been ſtill more dangerous, as there was then a thick wood on the
banks of it, all the way to Dalkeith. After paffing the church of Inveresk,
they must have been covered from the fhot, as the ground flopes from
thence down to the How Mire, (in thofe days a morafs, though now
drained and cultivated), from whence it rifes gently to the bottom of the
hills of Carberry and Falfide. On this gentle rifing lay the field of ac-
tion.
8
Statiſtical Account
Langfide. The bloody field of Pinkie under her eye, might
have put this ill-fated Queen on her guard. But unfit for
the rugged times in which fhe lived, he had the misfor-
tune to be at once facile and obftinate. The late proprie-
tor of Carberry, John Fullarton, Efq; has marked this ſpot.
to poſterity by planting a copfe-wood upon it.
Bridge. The bridge of Muffelburgh, over which the
Scottish army marched on the day of the battle of Pinkie,
is of great, but unknown antiquity. It is moſt likely, that
it is a work of the Romans, as they certainly had many
houſes in what is now called Fiſherrow, as well as their
haven for fhipping; and could not poffibly fuffer their co-
lony to be divided, and their harbour ſeparated from their
fort by a river, that is frequently unfordable for many days
together. This bridge has many marks of antiquity; and
as feveral parts of the arches approach nearly to a ſtraight
line, the frame, or coom, on which it was raiſed, muſt have
funk while it was building. The arches are 50 feet wide,
their fpring only 10 feet; whoever built it muſt have in-
tended, to place the approaches to it out of the reach of the
tide; which is the cafe to this day, and demonſtrates that
the coaft is not materially changed, or that the fea has not
gained on the land fince that period, as the fite of the har-
bour proves that it has not receded from it.
Pinkie Houfe.-Pinkie Houfe, though not very ancient,
(as it was built by Alexander Seton, firſt Earl of Dunferm-
line, in the year 1622), deſerves to be mentioned, becauſe
it was a vulgar notion for many years, that there were as
many doors and windows in it, as there are days in the
year. This has been copied into many of the tours and
travels into Scotland, though without foundation; and
ferves only to prove, that the houfe of Pinkie, though half
༧.
the
of Inveresk.
9
the defign has only been executed, was one of the firſt
houſes of any degree of magnitude, in this part of the
country, as it excited the wonder of the common peoples
The infcription on the front of this houfe *, now hid by a
covered way, points out the bumbleneſs of the building, or
the pride of its founder. The gallery is 80 feet long, the
cieling of which is covered with emblematical paintings
and inſcriptions †.
Routing Well.-The Routing Well at Monktoun, that is
faid always to predict a ftorm, is a wonder of the fame na-
ture as the preceding. The cafe is, that this well being dug
many fathoms deep, through a rock, in order to get below
the ftrata of coal that abound in the field, it communicates
through the coal rooms that are wrought, with other ſhafts;
which occafions a rumbling noife, that does not precede, but
accompanies a high wind.
Soil, Surface, Extent, &c.-The foil of this parifh varies.
according to its diftance from the fea. The flat ground
round Muffelburgh and Fiſherrow is fandy, but, having been
for ages in a high ſtate of cultivation for gardens and ſmall
fields, is abundantly fertile. The fields above Invereík, on
both fides of the river, are of a better quality, and may foon
VOL. XVI.
be
B
*Dominus Alexander Setonius hanc domum ædificavit, non ad animi,
fed fortunarum et agelli modum, 1613.
On the forfeiture of the family in 1688, this houſe and barony were
purchaſed by the family of Tweeddale, from whom, in the year 1778, it
was bought by Sir Archibald Hope of Craighall, Bart. and is now a more
comfortable dwelling-houſe than ever. An incloſure of 20 acres. covered
with fine old trees, contributes much to its beauty; and the ſhelter they af-
ford, together with the aptitude of the foil, form one of the fineſt fruit gar-
dens in the neighbourhood.
1
IÓ
Statiſtical Account
be made as fertile as any in the kingdom. Thoſe which
rife towards the hill on the S. E., and which run into New-
ton pariſh on the S. W., partake more of a clay foil, and
carry great crops of grain, eſpecially wheat, when they are
under proper management. There are 3571 acres of land
in the parish, which, at the ufual computation of 45 acres.
for a plough-gate, makes about 80 plough-gates.
Rent and Proprietors.-The real rental of the pariſh is
about L. 6500; that of the towns and villages, including the
mills of Muffelburgh, falt-works, &c. and the houſes of the
heritors, as made out to fix an affeffment for the poor, a-
mounts to L. 5000; total about L. 11,500. The great pro-
prietors are 8 in number; viz. 1ſt, the Duke of Buccleugh,
who is patron of the parish, as poffeffing the lordſhip of In-
vereſk, formerly belonging to Sir Robert Dickſon of Car-
berry, who fold it to the Duchefs of Monmouth about the
beginning of this century. His Grace holds alfo the lands
of Smeaton and Caftlefteads, and likewife the lordſhip of
Muffelburgh in this parish. His refidence is at Dalkeith
Houſe. 2. The Earl of Wemyfs, who has the lands of
Stonyhill, which formerly belonged to Sir William Sharp,
fon of the Archbishop of St Andrew's, and before that was
poffeffed by a family of the name of Dobie. His Lordship
has likewiſe the lands of Monktonhall, with the coal under
the whole lordship of Inverefk. Non-refident. 3. Mrs
Fullarton of Carberry, which eſtate was purchaſed from Sir
Robert Dickſon, Bart. who was defcended from Dr David
Dickſon, Profeffor of Divinity in the College of Edinburgh
about the middle of laft century. The family is now ex-
tinct. Refident. 4. Sir Archibald Hope, Bart. of Craig-
hall, proprietor of the barony of Pinkie, who has alſo ac-
quired the barony of Monkton, late in the poffeffion of the
Falconers, a branch of the family of Halkerton, which fur-
niſhed
of Inveresk.
II
niſhed a Judge to the Court of Seffion fome time in laſt
century. Reſident. 5. James Finlay, Efq; of Walliford,
which was formerly poffeffed by the Binnings, a family of
fome note in the law, one of whom was a Lord of Seffion
about the year 1672, and built the prefent manfion-houſe.
Non-refident. 6. Mifs Dalrymple of Hailes, the daughter of
the late Lord Hailes, who has her family feat in this parish,
called New Hailes; one of the firft houfes whofe park was
laid out and adorned with all the elegance of modern taſte.
Refident. 7. John Wauchop, Eſq; has a part of his eſtate
in this parish, which borders on the eſtate of Edminftone,
where he has his family feat. 8. The town of Muffelburgh
has alſo a confiderable eſtate in this pariſh, which is held of
the Duke of Buccleugh. There are many other ſmaller
proprietors of land, who are all portioners of the lordſhip of
Invereík, as they are called, or feuars of the barony of Pin-
kie, or of the town of Muffelburgh.
Minerals.-There is plenty of freeftone in the pariſh, and
likewiſe of limeſtone, though the laft is not wrought at pre-
fent. But the most valuable mines are thofe of coal, which
lie under the whole parish. The pits open at preſent are
either the property of Sir Archibald Hope, or rented by
him from the Earl of Wemyss, and, being well managed,
are very productive. In former times, till the year 1776,
colliers were in a ſtate of flavery in Scotland, which was
confidered as a diſgrace to the British Government. Through
fome defect in the act of Parliament that fet them free, or
in the management of them fince that period, there has
fometimes been a great fcarcity of coals, though they can
earn double the wages of any other labourers.
Agriculture. The ſtate of agriculture has not yet ar-
rived at perfection in this parish. The fields neareſt the
towns,
12
Statistical Account
towns are chiefly in the hands of butchers, bakers, brew,
ers, and carters, and, being only fubfidiary to their other
employments, are not in the moſt perfect ftate of cultiva-
tion. There are few fallows, and very rarely any green
crops, though the foil, on the lordship of Invereſk eſpe-
cially, is remarkably fit for them. From the former they
are with-held by the fear of lofing a crop; and from the
latter they are deterred by the multitude of idle children,
and other depredators of fuch crops in the neighbourhood.
As the rent has now rifen to L. 2, 1c s. and L. 3 per acre,
they will foon be obliged to follow the moft profitable me-
thods of huſbandry. The greater part of the lands in this
parish run readily into grafs, and carry great crops of hay.
The pafturage is likewife excellent; and as the demand for
grafs grounds increaſes with the fize and population of the
capital, ſuch ſoils as are in its vicinity, muſt be able to bear
the increaſed rent.
Improvements.-Two other circumſtances have contri-
buted much to raiſe the rent of this pariſh, which, 40 years
ago, was not more than L. 1, or L. 1, 5 s. per acre.
The
firſt was the dividing, and afterwards inclofing, about 700
acres of land in the fields of Inverefk, the property of many
different feuers of that Lordship, about 35 years ago. The
ſecond was the introduction of two-horſe ploughs without a
driver. The writer of this account, and Dr GRIEVE, then
miniſter of Dalkeith, having each of them entered into the
poffeffion of ſmall farms in the higher parts of their reſpec-
tive pariſhes, in the year 1768, being acquainted with the
practice of the ancients in that particular, and having ob.
ferved the wheel plough with two horfes, held and driven
by one man, ſucceſsfully uſed for fome years within the
park of Dalkeith, refolved to make trial of that method in
their farms, though of a ſtrong clay foil. They began with
horſes,
of Inveresk.
13
horfes, and in a fhort time trained oxen likewiſe to the fame
operation. They were laughed at in the beginning by the
neighbouring farmers; but when the ſecond year came
round, and the luxuriance of their crops was obſerved, their
example was immediately followed by all their neighbours.
The practice ſpread itſelf gradually all around, and for many
years there has been no plowing in all the Lothians, or in
the Merſe, but with two horfes and one man; while, at the
fame time, the inftrument itſelf has been cheapened and
amended by Mr Small of Dalkeith's improvement on the
Scotch plough. It is obvious how much this change muſt
have contributed to leffen the expence of tillage, and to
raiſe the rent of land.
Manufactures, &c.-Though this town and pariſh are
remarkably well fituated for manufactures, having the com-
mand of water, plenty of coals at hand, cheap houſes, and
a multitude of idle children, yet hitherto none very confi.
derable have been eſtabliſhed. This is perhaps owing
to their having been at all times carriers and furnishers
of various kinds of provifions for the capital, which employ-
ed them in a manner more agreeable to them, than the ſe-
dentary lives of manufacturers could have been. In the
end of laſt century, a broad cloth manufactory was begun
here, and was long carried on in great perfection, though
not to great extent. Some excellent cloth, both coarſe and
fine, continues ftill to be made here by Meffrs Cathie,
Stewart, Nichols and Dickfon *. There has lately been
introduced
* In the early part of this century, they manufactured large quantities of
coarfe wool, into a kind of checks, called Muffelburgh ſtuffs, at the price of
from 2d. to 5 d. per yard, which were moſtly exported to America, for
gowns to female ſervants. But the progress of the cotton manufacture has
long fuperfeded that branch, and for many years the uſe of that low-priced
fuf
14
Statiſtical Account
:
introduced the manufacture of Mancheſter goods, thick fets,
waiſtcoats, handkerchiefs, &c. on a ſmall ſcale, which pro-
miſes to do well. There is a thriving ſtone ware pottery,
as well as a pottery for brown ware at this place *. There
are feveral foap-boilers and ſtarch-makers in this pariſh :
One of the latter fort, at Monkton, of confiderable extent † ;
which, in the year preceding July 6. 1792, paid no leſs than
L. 4064 13 4 of excife duty, and was carried on by Ait-
chiſon, Brown, and Company, the proprietors of the
great diſtillery in St Clement's Wells, locally in the pariſh
of Tranent, but on the boundary of this parish, in which
they have their rectifying-houſe, and their malting, and
where moſt of their workmen refide. This is a diſtillery
of great extent. The barley made into malt in one year,
from July 6. 1791 to July 6. 1792, amounted to 13,131
bolls. They feed off 600 cattle twice a-year, befides many
hundreds of hogs at the ftarch-work and here; and the ef-
fects of their dung are perceived not only on their own ex-
tenfive farms, but on many fields in the neighbourhood.
The brewing of beer and ale has much decreaſed of late,
there having been only 1460 bolls of barley made into malt
liquor
ftuff has been difcontinued. Between 30 and 40 years ago, a cotton ma-
nufactory was begun and carried on here. fo as to employ above 200 looms,
most of which were in this parish. That alfo has been given up for fome
time paſt, as the fame kind of cloth came to be furnished cheaper in other
parts of the country. Some years ago there was a china manufacture at
Weftpans, in this parish, which received fome encouragement from the no-
bility and gentry, as the artist fucceeded well in fabricating ornamental-
china: But as he never could make tea-table china cheap enough for com
mon fale, and had no ftock, it was foon given up.
• It is fituated in a garden, where, three fcore years ago, ſtood the man-
fion-houſe of Weft pans, then poffeffed by a family of the name of Joice, or
JUICY now extinct, whofe eftate was what is now called Drummore, in
the parih of Prefton-pans.
This ftarch work was given up in 1793.
of Inveresk.
15
liquor here, during the above period, many families being
now fupplied with table beer from Leith or Preſtonpans,
which they find fuperior to that brewed here. If it is a wife
meaſure to increaſe the price of fpiritous liquors, by the im-
moderate ufe of which both the health and morals of the
common people are deſtroyed, it ſeems neceffary to ſupply
them with a cheap and wholeſome beverage in place of it;
their ordinary drink, twopenny, being now much degraded
in its quality, fince the average price of barley has been fo
high. What may we not look for, from that eminent ſtateſ-
man and patriot, by whofe attention to local circumftances,
which he fo well knows, we have derived fo many advantages,
and have had ſo many grievances redreffed?—There are falt-
pans in two places in this pariſh, viz. Weft-pans, ſo called, be-
cauſe it is fituated weft of Preſton-pans, anciently called Salt-
Prefton, and Magdalen-pans, which lie at the weft end of
this parish, in both of which are made great quantities of
falt.
Incorporations.-Befides theſe, all forts of handicraft trades
are carried on in great perfection at Muffelburgh, and are
divided into ſeven companies, or incorporations, having
charters from the town of Muffelburgh.-There is alfo
an incorporation of failors, or traffickers, which includes
perfons of various profeffions, who have a ſeparate box, and
funds of their own; and likewiſe a fociety of maſons, and
another of carters, and many others, who affociate together
for the fake of their poor.
Occupations of Women.-Forty or fifty years ago, and in
the times preceding, the city of Edinburgh was chiefly fur-
niſhed with the product of the garden from Muffelburgh and
Fiſherrow. The nature of the foil, well calculated for early
crops, and perhaps the fkill they had derived from the
2
example
·
16
Statistical Account
example of the Roman colony, may have led them to this
branch of buſineſs which they ſtill preſerve; though they
are far from poffeffing the monopoly of greens and garden
ftuffs, which they had in more ancient times. The demand
for vegetables has increaſed ten-fold within theſe 50 years,
and horticulture has been fo much encouraged in richer foils
near the capital, that all the fuperiority that the gardeners
here can now pretend to, is to furniſh the earlieſt crops of
peaſe and beans, &c. for a week or two, as the markets are
foon filled from the more luxuriant garden grounds nearer
the city. Connoiffeurs in that fort of viand, however, ſtill
prefer the produce of the lighter foil, which is lefs impreg-
nated with dung. The whole produce of the gardens, toge-
ther with falt, and fand for wafhing floors, and other articles,
till of late that carts have been introduced, were carried in
baſkets or creels on the backs of women, to be fold in
Edinburgh, where, after they had made their market, it was
ufual for them to return loaded with goods, or parcels of va-
rious forts, for the inhabitants here, or with dirty linens to
be waſhed in the pure water of the Efk. This employment
of women, which has certainly prevailed ever fince Edin-
burgh became a confiderable city, when joined to that of
the fiſh-wives in Fiſherrow, has occafioned a reverſal of the
ſtate of the ſexes in this parish, and has formed a character
and manners, in the female fex, which ſeems peculiar to
them, at leaſt in this country *.
The carriers of greens,
falt,
*The women of Bilboa in Spain, according to the account of a traveller,
Baron DILLON, (page 174) are even fuperior in ftrength and activity to
thofe of Fiſherrow. • In other countries,' fays he, ⚫ women are oppreſſed
with the ſlighteſt fatigue; here they work as much as the ſtrongeſt men;
unload ſhips, carry burdens, and do all the bufinefs of porters. The very
felons, confined in the mines of Almaden, do nothing in compariſon of theſe
females. They go barefooted, and are remarkably active, carrying burdens
On
of Inveresk.
17
:
falt, &c. are generally the wives of weavers, fhoemakers,
tailors, or fievemakers, who, being confined by their em-
ployments within doors, take charge of the children and
family, while the females trudge to Edinburgh about their
feveral branches of buſineſs, long before day in winter, and
return by mid-day, or later, according to the time ſpent in
felling their commodities. Their ufual daily profits may
be computed at from 8 d. to 1 s. 3 d. which, befides the
free, focial, and difengaged life which they lead, is a greater
addition to the income of the family, than they could earn
by any other branch of induſtry.-The women, who carry
fand to Edinburgh, have the hardeſt labour, and earn leaſt.
For they carry their burden, which is not lefs than 200 lb.
weight, every morning to Edinburgh, return at noon, and
paſs the afternoon and evening in the quarry, digging the
ftones, and beating them into fand. By this labour, which
is inceffant for fix days in the week, they gain only about
5 d. a day.
The Fish-wives, as they are all of one clafs, and educated
in it from their infancy, are of a character and manners
ftill more fingular than the former, and particularly di-
ftinguiſhed by the laborious lives they lead. They are the
wives and daughters of fiſhermen, who generally marry in
their own caft, or tribe, as great part of their buſineſs, to
which they muſt have been bred, is to gather bait for their
huſbands, and bait their lines. Four days in the week,
however, they carry fish in creels (ofier baskets) to Edin-
VOL. XVI.
burgh;
C
on their heads, which require two men to lift up. The wife yields not in
ftrength to the husband, nor the fifter to the brother; and after a cheer-
ful glafs, though heavily loaded, they move on with alacrity, returning
home in the evening without the appearance of laffitude, often arm and
arm, dancing and finging to the tabor and pipe.' This is a very exact pic-
ture of the fifh-wives here; fo fimilar are the manners of human creatures
in fimilar circumftances.
る
​}
18
Statiſtical Account
1
burgh; and when the boats come in late to the harbour in
the forenoon, ſo as to leave them no more than time to
reach Edinburgh before dinner, it is not unufual for them.
to perform their journey of five miles, by relays, three of
them being employed in carrying one baſket, and ſhifting
it from one to another every hundred yards, by which
means they have been known to arrive at the Fishmarket
in leſs than ths of an hour *.
While haddocks were in abundance on the coaſt, great
quantities were taken by the feven boats of Fiſherrow;
though the beſt fish for many years have been brought
three times a-week from Eyemouth on horſeback, and un-
loaded here, to be carried in creels to Edinburgh, by which
means the carriers are enabled to reach home the ſame day.
For ſeven years paft, fince the haddocks have diſappeared,
and few fish are to be caught by the Fisherrow boatmen,
on account of their diſtance from deep water, where the
fish are to be found, it is ufual for them to meet the boats
from the east end of Fife, half way down the frith, and to
purchaſe their fish. In the fummer ſeaſon the boats from
that coaft frequently run over to Fiſherrow, and fell their
cargoes to the fiſh-women here. This they do rather than
run up to Leith, becauſe they can difpofe of their fiſh im-
mediately, and fail home again to their reſpective harbours
on the fame day, with the ebb tide. The fish-wives who
carry to Edinburgh, gain at leaſt 1 s. a-day, and frequently
double and triple that fum.
From the kind of life theſe women lead, it may naturally be
concluded, that their manners are peculiar, as they certainly
are.
It is a well attefted fact, that three of them, not many years ago,
went from Dunbar to Edinburgh, which is 27 miles, with each of them a
load of herrings on her back of 200 lb. in 5 hours. They fometimes
carry loads of 250 lb.
of Inveresk.
19
are. Having fo great a fhare in the maintenance of the
family, they have no fmall fway in it, as may be inferred
from a faying not unufual among them. When ſpeaking
of a young woman, reported to be on the point of mar-
riage, "Hout!" fay they," How can fhe keep a man,
"who can hardly maintain herfell?" As they do the work
of men, their manners are mafculine, and their ſtrength
and activity is equal to their work. Their amuſements
are of the mafculine kind. On holidays they frequently
play at golf; and on Shrove Tueſday there is a ſtanding
match at foot-ball, between the married and unmarried wo-
men, in which the former are always victors.
Their manner of life, and the bufinefs of making their
markets, whet their faculties, and make them very dex-
terous in bargain making. They have likewife a fpecies.
of rude eloquence, an extreme facility in expreffing their
feelings by words or geftures, which is very impofing, and
enables them to carry their points even againſt the moſt
wary; and they are too well acquainted with the world, to
be abaſhed when they are detected in any of their arts *.
It is remarkable, that though a confiderable degree of li-
centiouſneſs appears in their freedom of fpeech, it does not
feem to have tainted their morals, in a point where it might
have chiefly been expected; there being no clafs of women,
it is believed, who offend lefs againſt the feventh com-
mandment, excepting in words, than they do. There feems
to be no employment, that conduces more to health and
good fpirits than theirs. Some of them have been brought
to
*It is not here meant to impeach their honefty, for which they are
on a par with all other fmall traffickers. An eminent merchant of Edin-
burgh told the writer, that he has often dealt with fome of them to the
amount of L. 600 in a ſeaſon, for falt herrings, without one line of writing,
and never loft a farthing by them.
20
Statiſtical Account
to bed, and have gone to Edinburgh on foot with their
baſkets within the week. It is perfectly well aſcertained,
that one, who was delivered on Wedneſday morning, went
to town with her creel on the Saturday forenoon following.
There is a charm in the free and active life they lead, which
renders them averſe to all fedentary employments. They
never wear ſhoes or ftockings but on Sundays, which is not
to be attributed to their poverty, but to the nature of their
employment. Strangers from the ſouth, diſgufted at this
practice, which more or lefs prevails among the women of
the inferior clafs in this country, and ftill more with the
cuſtom of trampling linens in waſhing tubs, (which is not
yet entirely diſcontinued, though gradually wearing out),
cry out againſt both as ſhocking pieces of barbarity. It
may be remarked, however, in regard to the former prac-
tice, that the Greek and Roman women, (even the ladies
in the houſe), wore neither fhoes nor ftockings.
From fuch parents, as might be expected, proceeds a
race of children, healthy, active, and robuft; and Lord
MONBODDO, and the LYCURGUSES of the age, will no doubt
look forward with anxiety to the period, when the work
that is now done by women, fhall come to be entirely per-
formed by horſes and carts. For their confolation, how-
ever, it may be obferved, that we perceive at preſent no
difference between the children of Muffelburgh and thoſe
of Fiſherrow, where the fiſhers live. Where the labouring
poor have enough to feed their children with, there is
little doubt, that the race will always prove both ftrong
and numerous.
Population. The population of this parish has increaſed
confiderably, fince Dr Webſter made his computation in
1755, which is chiefly owing to the preſent thriving ſtate
3
of
、
"
of Inveresk.
21
of the collieries, there having been only one pit open at
the former period. The people of all ages were carefully
numbered in November and December 1792, when none of
the fummer lodgers were here, and amounted as follows *;
1. In the Burgh.
In Muffelburgh, Weſt-pans, &c.
1640
In Newbigging,
490
2130
In Fiſherrow, Market-gate, Bridgend, &c.
[1799
In Timber-buh, Spring-garden, Brunftane-mill,
Magdalene pans, &c.
86
1885
Total in the Burgh,
4015
II. In the Country Pariſh.
In the village of Invereſk,
In the country, fouth-eaft,
In Monkton-hall,
In Monkton and Cairney,
235
238
163
120
6I
"48
865
In White-hill and New Hailes,
In Stoney-hill and Stoney-bank, &c.
Employed in the Coal-works.
In the Coal-pits,
At Craig-hall,
Total in the country,
Total number of fouls in the parish,
260
252
512
1377
5392
The number of fouls in 1755, when Dr Webſter took up his lift, was 4645
Increaſe t,
747
The
* Thoſe belonging to the burgh of Muffelburgh make one diviſion of
the parish, and thofe in the country, not under their jurifdiction, make
another.
This increaſe, as was already obferved, is chiefly to be imputed to
the thriving state of the coal-works: for, though the number of buildings
in
22
Statistical Account
The number of regiſtered baptiſms has been, at an average
for ſeven years preceding this year, (1793,) not quite 183,
which, multiplied by 26, gives only 4758, a number far
below that of the actual enumeration at this time.
The BAPTISMS, MARRIAGES and DEATHS, during thoſe
years, were as below:
Baptifms.
Marriages.
Deaths.
1786,
203
49
118
1787,
157
34
126
1788,
2 II
59
189
1789,
195
48
121
1790,
207
47
149
1791,
144
37
209
1792,
161
47
205
Total 1278
321
1117
Average 1824
459
1594
Occupations.-
in the towns is much increaſed, and there are many handfome houſes,
where there were only cottages before, yet feveral of theſe muſt have been
demolished, to make room for one good houfe: as the towns are likewife
much reforted to in ſummer for ſea-bathing, there are many good houſes,
which are not more than half inhabited in winter. There is ground to
believe, that this parish was nearly as populous laſt century as it is now,
becauſe it is certain, that at that time, when every perfon arrived, at a ma-
ture age, was obliged to communicate, there were 3000 communicants
in the parish. In thofe days there were fome ſmall, but populous
villages fcattered about, and many finall farms that are now no more.
This applies to the first part of this century likewife; for, on an average
of the burials for 12 years, from 1717 to 1728, there died annually 159,
which multiplied by 36, produces 5724; whereas from 1769 to 1780 in-
clufive, the average was only 121, which produces 4356. This laft
period, however, was probably that of the loweſt population, as all the
ſmall farms were abolished, and the diftilleries, ftarch. works, &c. were.
not introduced, and few coal-pits were open. The number of baptiſms
does not form fo juft a rule of computation as that of deaths, as many
children die without baptiſm, and not a few of the fectaries fhun entering
the names of their children in the regifter, which affords a good reaſon
for aboliſhing a tax that is fo little productive.
t
23
of Inveresk.
INCORPORATIONS.
Wrights and Smiths,
Occupations. The trades of Muffelburgh, with the num-
ber of maſters in each trade, are as follows:
Fiſhermen,
49
9༠
70 Fish-wives,
Tailors,
Shoemakers,
Bakers,
44 Milliners,
Gardeners,
30 Salt-wives,
96 Wine-merchants,
16 Mantua-makers,
50
4
ΙΟ
Weavers,
140 Hair-dreffers,
6
Flefhers,
50 Perfumers,
2
NOT INCORPORATED.
Carters, who have no
Mafons,
Grocers,
40
land, and live by car-
10
rying coals, &c.
63
Ecclefiaftical State *.-There are four places of worſhip
in this parish, 1. The Eſtabliſhed Church; 2. The Epifco-
pal meeting-houfe, which has exifted in fome ſhape ever
fince the Revolution, and is attended by a few gentlemens
families; 3. A Burgher Seceding meeting-houſe, which
was built about 25 years ago; 4. A Church of Relief,
which was erected in the year 1783, but would not have
been built had the church been large enough for the parish.
St Michael's of Inverefk, the parish-church, is of great an-
tiquity, but uncertain date. It is moft likely, that it was
built foon after the introduction of Chriſtianity, out of the
ruins
* The minifters of this parish fince the Reformation have been, firft,
Mr Andrew Blackhall, who was admitted previous to the year 1591, and
died in 1609; to him fucceeded Mr Adam Colt, who, with his fon, Mr
Oliver Colt, filled up the rest of that century till the year 1679. Mr
Arthur Millar was ordained in 1680; to whom Mr Richard Howifon
fucceeded about the year 1690. Mr John Williamfon was ordained here
in 1701; on whofe death in 1739, Mr Frederick Carmichael was ad,
mitted miniſter; who having been tranflated to Edinburgh in the year
1747, the prefent incumbent was ordained here on the 2d of Auguſt
1748, who is married, but has no children alive.
24
Statistical Account
ruins of the Roman fort.
to be the fame with thofe difcovered in the ruins of the
pretorium. There are evidently many old ftones, and many
Roman bricks in the building. There feems befides to
have been no good reaſon, for chufing a fituation ſo diſtant
from the towns, which have always been the most populous
parts of the pariſh, had it not been for the conveniency of
ufing the old materials. The body of the church is 102
feet long, and only 23 feet wide within the walls; but
there are four aifles, two on each fide of the church, that
have been built at different periods, and double rows of
galleries in the ends of the church. The whole is now in
a ruinous condition, and is truly a difgrace to the parish.
Several attempts have lately been made to have it rebuilt,
either in its prefent fituation, or on one more commodious,
which have failed. This ſtate of the church is not only of
no ſmall diſadvantage to the poors funds, but to the reli-
gion and morals of the people, as it leaves fuch a number
of them to be infected with fectarian principles, which,
without laying any thing to the charge of the preſent in-
cumbents, are at beft uncertain. The fituation of the
church is remarkably fine, not only on account of the ex-
tenfive view of the country which it commands, though
the hill is not more than 50 feet above the level of the fea,
but likewife as a military ſtation, as was formerly obfer-
ved. There are two mounts or ramparts, one on the
north fide, and another on the east end of the church-yard +,
The ftone it is built of
The ſtone it is built of appears
that
* Oliver Cromwell's cavalry lay there for 6 or 8 weeks, in 1650, while
his foot were encamped on the links of Muffelburgh. The church ferved
Oliver as a ſtable for his cavalry. The place, where his own tent was
erected, is ſtill fhewn on Muffelburgh links.
†The eaſtern rampart having been levelled 5 or 6 years ago to extend
the burying-ground, and a foundation for a monument having been lately.
dug
of Inveresk.
25
!
that are called Oliver's Mounts, and are fuppofed to have
been batteries of Cromwell's, one to command the bridge,
and the other to defend his magazine which was in the
village of Inverefk. Lord HAILES uted to alledge that
they were of greater antiquity than Cromwell, and might
have been ramparts of a Roman camp; but the circum-
ſtance mentioned in the note affords a ftrong prefumption
of the contrary.
The ſtipend, from 1650 till 1781, was I chalder of wheat,
I of barley, and I of oats; and L. 66, 10 s. in money. In
1781, the preſent incumbent obtained an augmentation,
and the ftipend is now 2 chalders of wheat, 3 of barley,
and 3 of oats, paid in money, at the fiars of Mid-Lothian,
and L.62 in money, including communion-elements. There
is likewife a glebe of 5 acres inclofed by the prefent in-
cumbent, together with a houſe and garden, and a field be-
fore the houſe, making in all an acre, which were given by
the town of Muffelburgh to the minifter of the parish, when
"the manfe was built in 1681; for an addition to which field,
made in 1758, he pays I s. yearly of feu-duty. Since
1702 there has been an affiftant probationer, for whom there
is a very flender ſupport, out of certain funds allotted for
that purpoſe. The Duke of Buccleugh is patron of the parish.
Burgh.-Muffelburgh is a very ancient burgh of Rega-
lity*, and was once called Muffelburgh-fhire. The mill,
VOL. XVI.
D
to
dug, as deep as 7 feet below the furface of the church-yard, and 11 be-
low the top of the mount, there were found many human bones in full
preſervation, which feems to furnish proof that the ramparts had been
erected ſince the field was inclofed for a church-yard.
*Before the Reformation, it was an ecclefiaftical burgh belonging,
inter alia, to the abbacy of Dunfermline. It was disjoined by King
James VI. from that abbacy, and given in donation to one of the family
of Lauderdale; and when the whole abbacy was given to Queen Ann
of Denmark, ſhe reclaimed the regality of Muffelburgh, as comprehended
under
26
Statiſtical Account
to which this regality was aftricted and thirled; is called
the Shire-mill, and the wood along the banks of the river,
of which little remains, is called Shire-wood; and Sheriff-ball
at the extremity of the regality has acquired its name in
the fame manner.
Muffelburgh is an ancient ecclefiaftical and incorporate
burgh, holden of the Lord Superior of the Regality, who is
now the Duke of Buccleugh, on payment of certain fums
annually as quit-rent or feu-duty. The territories of the
Burgh extend along the fea-coaft, the whole length of the
pariſh, and are about two meaſured miles and a half in
length, and from one half to one fourth of a mile in breadth.
Charters.-The most ancient charter of this burgh now
extant is dated December 11. 1562, and is granted by Ro-
BERT Commendator of Dunfermline, with confent of the
whole members of the convent. It narrates, That the
"title-deeds belonging to the burgh were burnt by their
"enemies the Engliſh, after the fatal battle of Pinkie;
"therefore they of new grant, difpone, and confirm to the
"prefent bailies, community and inhabitants of Muffel-
burgh, and to their fucceffors," &c. which is not incon-
fiftent with what has been before mentioned as a tradi-
tional account, vix. That their first charter was procured,
by means of their attention to Randolph Earl of Murray,
who died in their town. This charter is confirmed by
many ſubſequent charters and acts of Parliament, particu-
larly
under the gift. But the proprietor contended, that it had ab ante been
gifted to him, which defence was fuftained. Certain parts, however,
of this regality and pariſh have been disjoined, and added to the pariſhes
of Cranſton, Newton, and Dalkeith. This Lordship was held by the fa
mily of Lauderdale till the year 1709, when it was purchaſed by the Du
chefs of Monmouth and Buccleugh.
of Inveresk.
27
larly by a charter from the Earl, afterwards Duke of Lau-
derdale, dated anno 1670, in which all their ancient rights
and privileges are narrated and confirmed.
Government, &c.-The town-council confifts of 18
members, 10 being elected from Muffelburgh, and 8 from
Fiſherrow. The whole regality in this divifion is confi
dered as Fiſherrow, except what is within the ancient
ports of Muffelburgh. Out of thefe, two bailies and a
treaſurer are annually elected, but may not be re-elected
more than two years without intermiffion. Two coun-
cillors go off annually by a vote of the council, and two
are choſen in their room by the fame body.
Their reve-
nue is now very confiderable, arifing from feu-duties paid
by the proprietors of all the houſes in their territories, and
from their lands and mills, and the fhore-dues of their
harbour. The two laft are of a fluctuating nature, and
´have increaſed of late, the one on account of their good
ſtate, and the other by means of the great refort of ſhipping
with grain for the diſtillery. Were the laſt to be given
up, the dues of the harbour would have little elfe to fup-
port them but fishing boats, and the buſineſs of the two or
three timber and iron merchants fettled there, which in-
deed is confiderable. The annual revenue of the town is
not less than L. 1500.-The magiftrates, by their title-
deeds are empowered to hold a court of record, and iſſue
precepts both on their decrees and regiſtrations. They are
empowered to grant infeftment by hafp and ſtaple, more
burgi; but their clerk is not entitled to a protocal record
of infeftments, as in burghs royal. Their infeftments
muſt be recorded in the county regiſter; but being an in-
corporated burgh, under that title it is excepted out of
the late jurifdiction act, and ſtill remains poffefſed of its an-
cient
}
28
Statistical Account
cient privileges *. Upon the whole, this burgh has all the
privileges of any royal burgh in Scotland, except thoſe of
voting for a member of Parliament, and fending a dele-
gate to the Convention of Burghs.
Archery. There is an ancient filver arrow in this towr,
which is ſhot for annually by the Royal Company of Archers.
The victor receives L. 1, 10 s. Sterling from the town, and
a riddel full of claret, viz. one dozen, and is bound to ap-
pend a medal of gold or filver to the arrow, before the
next year's annual meeting. The earlieſt date of any of
the medals is 1603; but there are a few that are more an-
cient without a date. This ancient mode of warfare ha-
ving gone into difufe, fince the invention of fire arms, was
likely to have fallen into total oblivion, had it not been
for thoſe ancient prizes eſtabliſhed in different parts of the
kingdom which preſerved the remembrance of it; but it
has been lately revived in Edinburgh, and other cities and
towns in England, as well as in Scotland, and has become
an exerciſe as faſhionable as it is manly. Archery is an
exerciſe peculiarly well fuited to large cities, where young
gentlemen of various profeffions have neither leiſure nor
opportunity for the diverfions of the chace and the field.
Golf.-The golf, ſo long a favourite and peculiar ex-
ercife of the Scots, is much in uſe here t. Children are
trained
*In the year 1632, Muffelburgh was, by a charter under the great
ſeal, erected into a royal burgh; but the magiftrates of Edinburgh ob.
tained a decreet of reduction of that charter before the privy-council,
dated November 30. 1632, in confequence of a compromife with the ma-
giftrates of Muffelburgh.
The following account of the Dutch game, called KOLF, was very
obligingly communicated by the Rev. Mr WALKER, one of the mini-
fters
of Invereſk.
29
1
trained to it in their early days, being enticed by the beau-
ty of the links, (which lie on each fide of the river, be-
tween
of the Canongate, whofe former refidence in Holland has enabled him to
give a very fatisfactory defcription of that game.
The Dutch game called Kolf, from which the word GOLF is derived,
as both are probably from the Greek word, xoxopos, is played in an incloſed
rectangular area of about 60 feet by 25. The floor, which is a compofi-
tion of fand, clay, and pitch, is made as level as a billiard table, and the
inclofing walls are for two feet above the floor, faced either with poliſhed
ftone, or ſheet lead, that they may cauſe the ball rebound with accuracy.
At about 8 or to feet from each end wall, a circular poſt of about 5
inches diameter is placed precifely in the middle of the area with regard
to breadth, confequently oppofite the one to the other, and at the diſtance
of 40 feet or thereby. The balls ufed in the game are about the fize of
cricket balls, made perfectly round and elaftic, covered with ſoft leather,
and fewed with fine wire. The clubs are from three to four feet long,
with ftiff fhafts. The heads are of brafs, and the face, with which the ball
is ftruck, is perfectly fmooth, having no inclination, fuch as might
have a tendency to raife the ball from the ground. The angle, which the
head makes with the ſhaft, is nearly the fame with that of the putting
clubs ufed at golf. The game may be played by any number, either in
parties against each other, or each perfon for himſelf; and the conteft is,
who ſhall hit the two pofts in the feweſt ſtrokes, and make his ball re-
treat from the laſt one with fuch an accurate length, as that it ſhall
lie neareſt to the oppoſite end wall of the area. The firft ftroke is made
from within a few inches of what is called the beginning poſt, and the
player directs his ball as precifely as he can on the oppoſite one, that he
may hit it if poffible, computing at the fame time the force of his ftroke,
ſo that, ſhould he mifs it, (which from the diſtance may be ſuppoſed to be
most frequently the cafe), his ball may rebound from the end wall, and lie
within a moderate diſtance of the poſt, and before it, i. e. between the two
poſts, rather than between the poft and the end wall. The reaſon of pre-
ferring this ſituation of the ball, will appear by reflecting how much eaſier
it is in that caſe to fend the ball, after ſtriking the poſt, back again towards
the other one. The ſkill of the game confifts in ftriking the poſt in ſuch
a way, whether full or otherwiſe, as may fend the ball towards the place
where you wish it to reft. It combines the addrefs required both in golf
and in billiards. Five points make the game; and fuch is the difference
between a capital and an ordinary player, that the former will give four
points
{
30
Statistical Account
T
}
tween the two towns and the fea), and excited by the
example of their parents. To preſerve the taſte for this
ancient diverfion, a company of gentlemen, about 18 years
ago, purchaſed a filver cup, which is played for annually
in the month of April, and is for a year in the poffeffion
of the victor, who is obliged to append a medal to it, when
he reſtores it to the company. The inhabitants of Muffel-
burgh had need to watch over this precious field for health
and exerciſe, left in fome unlucky period the magiftrates.
and council thould be induced to feu it out, on pretence of
increaſing the revenue of the town. At prefent it is a
common, to which every burgeſs has a right of paſturage;
although part of it has already been let off in feu, which
has made the entry to the town, both from the eaſt and
weft, leſs free and open than it formerly was, and greatly
decreaſed the beauty and amenity of the place.
Education.-There is now, and there has long been a
flouriſhing grammar fchool in this place, under the patro
nage of the magiftrates and town-council, (with the mini-
ſter); who, upon an agreement with the heritors of the pa-
riſh, ſettled a falary on the mafter, payable out of their
funds, in lieu of which they accepted of the dues arifing from
mortcloths
points of the game, and frequently be the winner. This fuperiority of
play I experienced myſelf at a kolf baan near the Hague, after I had con-
fiderable practice in the game, and was, in fact, no mean player. With
the advantage of three points I was completely beaten, and even when I
got four, I could hardly preſerve any tolerable equality.
A great advantage of the game of kolf is, that it can be played at all
feafons, and in all weather, as the place is as clofe as a houſe, while, at
the fame time, by opening the windows, which are very large, you may
have a fufficiency of air. There is generally a kind of apartment at one
end of the kolf baan, two or three fteps higher than the floor, where fpec-
tators may enjoy the fight of the game, as far as the clouds of tobacco
Imoke, with which they commonly fill it, will allow.
of Invereſk.
31
mortcloths at funerals, which were part of the funds at the
difpofal of the heritors. The fchoolmafter has a falary of
L. 28 per annum, and a good houſe and garden. The
town-council and principal inhabitants have lately en-
abled their laſt incumbent, who in his younger years had
a flouriſhing ſchool, to retire on a penfion; and Mr John
Taylor, from Kelſo, has been appointed in his room, with
fo much approbation of the public, that his houfe is alrea-
dy filled with boarders. This town is confidered as in fo
healthy a fituation, and is fo convenient for education, (ha-
ving the advantage of eafily procuring the beſt maſters
from Edinburgh, for the French and Italian languages,
mufic, drawing, and other accompliſhments), that of late.
years boarding fchools for young ladies have met with
great encouragement. At preſent there are two of much
eminence, of which Miſs Grant and Miſs Primroſe are go-
verneffes; befides a third at a lower board, by Mifs Neil-
fon, who merits and meets with encouragement. There are
feveral very good writing mafters in the place; and Mr Tho-
mas Salmon, teacher of dancing, has been eſtabliſhed here
for more than 30 years, and continues to teach with increa-
fing reputation. While the mafters and miftreffes of thofe
ſchools preferve their reputation for ability, diligence, and
tender care of the children, and continue to admit boarders
and ſcholars at a reaſonable rate, the additional advantages of
fituation cannot fail to procure them full employment. By
means of the bounty of the Duchefs of Buccleugh, and.
the contributions of fome pious and charitable ladies of the
parish, there have been Sunday's fchools for theſe three
years, both in Muffelburgh and Fiſherrow; which, though
unneceffary in general in Scotland, where the pariſh
ſchools are fufficient, yet are of much utility here, where,
on account of the poverty and conftant occupations of the
parents, the inftruction of many children was neglected.
3
Surgeons,
A de dager siden fast kohta Khanda BUN SAINT PINE RESTAN VAN
32
Statiſtical Account
Surgeons, Difeafes, &c.-There are four furgeons in this
parish, who, having been all well educated to their pro-
feffion, are, according to the mode of the country, confulted
and confided in as phyficians, except in extraordinary
cafes, when doctors graduate are called from Edinburgh ;
which, being ſo nigh at hand, is the reaſon why no phyfi-
cian has ever fettled here. The parish is remarkably
healthy. Epidemical diftempers are feldom fatal, except
the ſmall-pox, which now and then ſweeps away too many
children. Inoculation is by no means univerfal, which is
probably owing to the influence the fectaries have over
the minds of their neighbours; an obfervation that is de-
rived from a perufal of many of the Statiſtical Accounts
already publiſhed. They have, nevertheless, great en-
couragement to extend the practice, as one of the furgeons,
who has not been ſettled here above 3 years, has inoculated
above 200, without having loft one. The havock hitherto
made by the ſmall pox, however, cannot be very great,
as during the whole courſe of theſe 40 years laſt, (the fu-
neral records of which the writer of this account has exa-
mined), the higheſt average for 12 years is 159, and the
greateſt number in any one of thefe years is only 219.
Forty years ago, there were but three perſons in the pariſh
who had ever been troubled with the gout, and two of
thofe were not natives. At prefent they are chiefly ftran-
gers who are troubled with that diſeaſe. The gravel is
alſo rare, which may be owing to the goodneſs of the wa-
ter, or rather to that new briſk ſmall beer without hops,
which is the common beverage of the people; though not
ſo much as it was formerly, as the twopenny has degene-
rated; and cheap whiſky, that bane of the health and mo-
rals of the people, has been fubftituted in its room. Nothing
ſeems more worthy of the attention of the Legiſlature, than
thofe circumſtances, however minute, which tend to cor-
rupt the morals of the commons of this country, who have
fo long been remarkable for fobriety and virtue.
Longevity'
1
of Inveresk.
33
Longevity.-There are always many aged people in this
pariſh, and what is of more importance, they preferve
their vigour and their faculties to the laſt. There are,
and have been many women paſt fourſcore, who travel to
Edinburgh with their creels, and return by mid-day;
men of the ſame age are many of them not paſt la-
bour; and there are a few perfons at prefent living in this
pariſh, who, though approaching to 90, are as ftout and
lively as fome others of threefcore *. The oldeſt perſon
now living is a woman of 94, who carried the creel in her
youth, and ſtill ſpins.
Law.-There is but one refident writer or attorney in
the parish, who is the town-clerk. As all the ſmall cauſes
commence at the town-court, the parties in general are in-
duced to acquiefce in the first judgment, whether they
think it right or wrong, as there is no advice at hand to
tempt them to carry it farther. Cuſtom has taught them
to fubmit to the firft decifion, which happily prevents the
entail of feuds and endleſs litigation upon them.
Morals and Manners.-The people of this pariſh are
not free from fuch vices, as are incident to perſons in their
fituation. The faults that are attached to dealers in ſmall
articles are not uncommon among them, but great crimes
are very rare. Large cities are the nurſeries of crimes, as
they furnish the means of privacy and concealment, as
well as of temptation. But populous villages, if not fa-
vourable to fome of the virtues, are at leaft difcouraging
to ſcandalous vices; becauſe, in fo cloſe a neighbourhood,
every action is perfectly known, and there is no cenforial
power half fo effectual as the opinion of equals. Few great
VOL. XVI.
E
crimes
* Robert Mitchell, a chelsea-penfioner and afs-driver, died lafl winter
(1792) aged 91, and might probably have lived to 100, had he not first
broke his leg, and afterwards, before it was recovered, fallen into the fire,
and been ſcorched to death.
34
Statiſtical Account
crimes have been attempted, or brought to light in this pa-
rish *. The manners of the people are open and boipitable,
though not fo gentle and mild as might be expected from the
fubferviency of their ſtate. But the influence women have
upon manners is prevalent in every condition. The change
in
*No perfon has been convicted of a capital felony fince the year 1728,
when the famous Maggy Dicklon was condemned and executed for child-
murder in the Grass-market of Edinburgh, and was restored to life in a
cart, on her way to Muffelburgh to be buried. Her huſband had been
abfent for a year, working in the keels at Newcaſtle, when Maggy fell
with child, and to conceal her fhame, was tempted to put it to death.
She kept an ale-houſe in a neighbouring pariſh for many years after ſhe
came to life again, which was much reſorted to from curiofity. But Mar-
garet, in fpite of her narrow efcape, was not reformed, according to the ac-
count given by her cotemporaries, but lived, and died again, in profligacy.
For 25 years paſt the Stool of Repentance, that relict of Popery, has been
diſcontinued in this parish, and one strong temptation to this crime of
child-murder, which formerly prevailed fo much, has been withdrawn.
This branch of penance has been too long a difgrace to the country, and
highly degrading to a reſpectable body of men, who fat monthly in
judgment, with little else to do, than to find out the fathers of the chil-
dren of licentious women. It had a ftill worse effect than that of degra-
ding the clergy, as it impreffed on the minds of the people an idea, that
there is no other crime great enough to deferve ecclefiaftical cenfures,
but fornication.
+ No change has ever been more complete and rapid, than that of man-
ners, in many respects, within thefe 40 years. In the beginning of that
period, penny bridals, promifcuous dancing, and cards and dice were
abfented from and fhunned by the grave, becauſe they had been prohibi-
ted in the acts of Affemblies of an ancient date. Clergymen, in thoſe
days, were fometimes libelled for dancing and playing at cards, even in
private houſes; as well as for fhaving or dreffing their hair, or dining in a
neighbour's houſe on the Lord's day. Happily thoſe fictitious vices, an eaſy
abſtinence from which gave credit to the whole train of artificial virtues
in a falfe and hypocritical character, are now no more; and clergymen
and their families are on the fame footing in reſpect to all innocent amuſe-
ments,
of Inveresk.
35
in the drefs, too, of mechanics and labourers, is as remark-
able here as any where in Scotland, as, indeed, might well
be expected from their vicinity to the capital.
Prices
ments, with perfons of the fame rank in any other profeffion, as far as is
confiftent with the dignity and gravity of the clerical character.
It is well known, that the manners of a people are ſtronger than thofe
laws which pretend to regulate them, when fuch regulations are founded
on falfe principles. Of this there is a recent example, which, being hard-
ly of importance enough to enter into general history, may not impro-
perly be recorded here.
Many perfons now alive muft remember with what a fit of zeal and
hypocrify, (for they were mingled), the minds of great numbers were
feized, when the tragedy of Douglas was firſt acted in Edinburgh, in
December 1756. That play is now of the moſt eſtabliſhed reputation,
and is juſtly and univerfally admired as one of the most excellent compo-
fitions in the English language. On occafion of its first appearance on
the theatre, a few clergymen, about feven or eight who were particular
friends of the author, in order to give him countenance, once or twice
attended the reprefentation of it, a practice at that time not prevalent,
though not altogether unufual. Such a ftorm was inftantly raiſed againſt
thofe clergymen, that one would have thought that religion and morals
had then received a mortal blow, although plays had been frequented
for a long period in Edinburgh, by many people of the most unexception-
able characters, without animadverfion of any kind; and though feveral
of the moſt eminent clergymen were well known to have attended the
theatre, when occafionally in London.
The prefbytery of Edinburgh and the prefbytery of Glafgow met again.
and again on the fubject; wrote warm letters to the feveral prefbyteries,
to whom any of the offending clergymen belonged, infifting on their pro-
ceeding againſt them, and bringing them to condigu punishment; emit-
ted admonitions and exhortations against the offenfive practice and or
dered them to be read in all the churches within their bounds. In every
inftance, however, except two, one of which was carried as far as the
Supreme Court, and of which the iffue is to be feen in the magazines of
that
:
1
36
Statistical Account
Prices of Provifions, &c.—The prices of provifions here
are entirely regulated by the rates at Edinburgh, with which
"
there
1
that time, the offence was done away in the moft private manner by the
But even the General Af
feveral prefbyteries who had been wrote to.
ſembly was induced to make a declaratory act againſt the ſtage, enjoining
all prefbyteries to take care that none of the ministers of this church do upon
any occafion attend the theatre. In fhort, the country was excited into a
flame on this trifling occafion, though not quite fo ftrong and extenſive,
yet fimilar to that which was raifed 23 years afterwards in oppofition to
the Popish bill.
This violent explofion of zeal, which certainly does no honour to the
annals of the church, was not wholly owing to the offence taken by
ſome well meaning people. It was well known that ſome ſhare of poli-
tical enmity was added to it, which ferved to blend parties together in a
manner theretofore unknown on ſo flight an occafion. The ſpirit of ee-
clefiaftical faction likewife mingled deeply in it, and contributed to in-
creaſe the clamour, in order to fix a ftigma on certain clergymen, who
were looked upon with a jealous eye, by fome who then acted as leaders
of the church.
But what was the fequel? The plans of ecclefiaftical intrigue were
unveiled, and funk into contempt. The courſe of public fentiment and
manners becoming gradually more liberal, proved too ftrong for fuch
narrow and bigotted principles. Mr John Home, the author of the tra
gedy in queftion, the fuperior merit of which was already generally ac-
knowledged, having new views opened up to him, demitted his charge in
the month of June 1757, and withdrew from the church without the leaſt
animadverfion on his conduct. In a few years clergymen from many
different parts of the country, as well as fome in town, occafionally at-
tended the theatre, and feveral of the moft refpectable minifters continue
to do fo, not only without any cenfure from the church, but without any
fort of offence being given or taken.
It is well known, that the clergy of no Chriftian country in the world
are in general more blameless in their morals, and lefs reprehenfible in
their conduct, than thofe of the Church of Scotland; and while they are
not
of Inveresk.
37
!
{
there is an almoft hourly communication. The fishwives
will rather take their chance of a market in that city, than
fell their fish at a reaſonable price here; inſomuch, that
the people of this parish are chiefly ſupplied by women
from Preſtonpans, who are too diftant to go and return
with their burdens daily to Edinburgh; and who, when
they have not fish from their own boats, are glad to pur-
chaſe them when they can get them at Fiſherrow, and di-
ftribute them among the opulent families here. Notwith-
ſtanding all this, fish was long a cheap article here, till
the demand at Edinburgh increaſed, and the haddocks left
our coafts about fix or feven years ago. Fortunately they
have again returned in finall numbers about the time of
drawing up this account, namely in June 1793. The only
article we have cheaper than at Edinburgh is coals, which
is owing to our vicinity to the pits; and the only articles
we have, perhaps, of better quality, are the produce of
the garden and bread. This laft advantage we owe to our
lying between Edinburgh, and the beft wheat farms in
Eaſt Lothian, from whence our bakers are fupplied. The
bakers here, about 50 or 60 years ago, more than half fur-
nished Edinburgh and Leith with wheat bread, and ftill
continue to vend a confiderable quantity there, notwith-
ſtanding their paying higher mill dues than are paid any
where elſe; but they have cheaper houfes and firing than
'can be had in the city, which more than compenſates them
for the high price of mealing. It must be obferved, how-
ever,
not likely to abufe fuch a privilege, it may well be prefumed that occa-
fional access to the theatre, efpecially when the moſt eminent actors have
appeared, has contributed to improve their ſtyle and pronunciation, and
to baniſh from the pulpit that ruftic vulgarity with which it was once
reproached.
:
38
Statistical Account
and
ever, that a confiderable quantity of Edinburgh bread is
alſo vended here. The neceffaries of life are no doubt
much dearer than they were thirty or forty years ago, but
the wages of labour have increaſed in a much greater pro-
portion. For 12 years preceding 1760, the price of beef
here by agreement was 24 d. for one half of the year,
3 d. for the other half. It is now at the rate of 31 d. and
4 d. But the wages of labour have, in moſt cafes, been
more than doubled fince that period; fo that the inferior
claffes, who fubfift by their labour, and are underſtood
chiefly to uſe the neceffaries of life, and not its luxuries,
have no ground of complaint. On the contrary, their
condition is much improved, eſpecially as the taxes do not
extend to many articles of their confumption. Soap, can-
dles, and leather are the only neceffaries that are taxed
which are within their reach. If they will have whisky,
it is fit they ſhould pay for it. Malt liquor is ſtill very
cheap, viz. 1 d. per pint, or Engliſh quarts, though it
muſt be owned, it is inferior in quality to what it for-
merly was, on account of the high price of barley; which,
it is to be hoped, may not be of long continuance, as the
firſt very good crop may reduce it as much as was done in
the year 1779.
2
If any clafs of men have ground of complaint amidſt the
high proſperity of their country, it is thoſe of ranks ſu-
perior to the labourers and artiſans, who, having fixed fa-
laries, or unimprovable livings, cannot now afford to live
as they have formerly done; many articles for the table,
befides butcher's meat, which has been raiſed above one
fourth, having been doubled or tripled within thefe 40
years. But ftill it is more owing to the change in the
modes of living, than to the increaſed price of proviſions,
that difficulties are incurred; for this creates a neceflity of
its
!
of Inveresk.
39
its kind. How few have philofophy or fortitude eno gh
to live in a ſtyle inferior to their neighbours and equals !
When all are equally poor, none but fpendthrifts are ever
in diftrefs. As the wages of labour are more than doubled,
the manner of living is entirely changed. Until about the
year 1760, the working people uſed no bread but oat cakes.
Since that time, however, the uſe of wheaten bread has
been increaſing; and now, bread made of oat meal is not to
be met with, but in houfes of gentlemen as a rarity. At
the period before mentioned, working people uſed little
meat but falted mutton in winter. Salt herrings too made
great part of their kitchen, (opfonium), a word that here
fignifies whatever gives a reliſh to bread or porridge; the
laft of which is not yet in difufe, but ftill continues, with
milk or ale, to make the breakfaſts and ſuppers of children
and apprentices. Through the year freſh or new killed
beef is now fubftituted for falted.
Markets. There is a market for butcher's meat in
Muffelburgh every Friday, and one in Fiſherrow every
Tueſday. There is a much greater number of animals
killed here, than are confumed in the parish, to the amount
of ſome hundreds of fheep weekly in the feaſon, and a
proportional number of black cattle, lambs, calves, and
hogs. But they are chiefly for the ſupply of the markets
of Edinburgh and Leith, which are frequented by our but-
chers From this it may be inferred, that our provisions
are equally good with theirs, excepting fome choice beaſts
that muſt fall to the fhare of the Edinburgh butchers. Veal
too muſt be excepted, which is rarely good here, and has
lately degenerated. Our pork, which is chiefly purchaſed
from the farmers of Eaft Lothian, is remarkably fine; and
our lamb is fuperior in quality, as the butchers have inclo-
fures at hand, in which they are kept till they are wanted.
Poor,
40
Statistical Account
Poor *.-Since the year 1781, the poor of this parisk
have been penfioned in their own houſes. Their number
is
* Soon after the prefent incumbent was fettled in this parish, the heri-
tors and other principal inhabitants, with the laudable deſign of providing
better for their poor, eſpecially aged perfons and children, erected and
furniſhed a poors-houfe, or work-houſe, at very confiderable expence, which
was ready for the reception of the poor at Whitsunday 1752. The beſt
rules of management that could be deviſed or collected were ordained, and
the houſe went on for many years, to the comfort of the poor, and the fa-
tisfaction of all concerned, An additional expence, as was expected, be-
fides the building, was incurred for the maintenance of the poor, and an
affeffment was laid on the heritors that year for the firſt time. The object
then being not the most parfimonious plan of provifion for the poor,
but their comfortable fubfiftence, and the prefervation of the young
among them, from idleness and profligacy: The arguments arifing from
the danger, by means of fuch inftitutions, of erazing the ſenſe of shame of
dependence on the poors funds from the minds of the indigent, or of
blunting the feelings of compaffion in the hearts of their relations, did not
occur; or if they had, would have been confidered as the fuggeftions of
avarice, in no reſpect applicable to the ſtate of this parish. The affeff
ment was continued; and as the towns were populous, it was thought no
more than juſtice that they should contribute their fhare. They accordingly
were affeffed of a certain fum by the annual meeting of heritors and elders,
which was proportioned among them by a large committee of the inhabi
tants appointed by the meeting. By this means thoſe who frequented any
of the meeting-houſes, or abfented altogether from public worship, were
made to contribute their fhare, as well as thofe who regularly attended
the Eſtabliſhed Church, and paid both by their collections and by affeff.
ment.
At the end of 30 years, many difficulties having occurred from the back-
wardneſs of ſome to pay their affeffments, and a conftant intrigue among
the inhabitants about furnishing neceffaries, or employing the poor, the
moft difintereſted among the managers became heartily tired of the bufi-
nefs. Add to this, that the houſe and furniture came now to need a tho-
rough repair, which could not have coft less than L. 300 Sterling; all
which, together with an opinion, that the poor could be maintained cheaper
in their own houfes than in the poors-houſe, induced the heritors, and all
concerned, after two years deliberation, to fell the houſe, and add the price
to the poor's funds, which was accordingly done in the year 1781.
2
of Invereſk.
41
is about 110, none of whom are allowed more than 1 s. per
week, and fome have only 6d*. an allowance fo fcanty,
as leaves them but in a very wretched flate, when they are
entirely paſt their induftry: and were it not for privaté
charities, or ſubſidiary funds, muſt be wholly infufficient to
fupport nature. The fum laid on for the ſupport of the
poor has for ſome time been L. 215, of which above L. 65
is paid from the collections; which have fallen ſo much ſhort
of the deburſements on account of bad payments, and con-
troverfies that have ariſen, that the heritors and feffion have
been obliged to encroach on the price they received for the
poors-houſe. Of late years it has been thought proper to
follow the directions formerly given by the Sheriff of the
county, and to lay on the affeffiment for the poor, according
to a rental of all property in the pariſh, as the moſt certain
and equal rule † by which to levy the poor's funds. Various
difficulties
*For eight or ten years after the houſe was firſt occupied by the poor,
they were maintained at the very cheap rate of 1 s. 24 d. per week a piece.
† It is remarkable, that not a few of the clergy in their Statiſtical
Accounts, exclaim againſt the change, that of late years has been made in
many pariſhes, in their method of maintaining the poor, which has not
been entirely by collections at the church doors, as formerly, but partly by
affeflments, and thence take occafion to warn their country againſt poors
rates as a heavy burden, that even England is not able to bear. But theſe
writers do not feem to have fufficiently attended to the alterations in the
ſtate of the country in general, and of many parishes in particular, within
this half century. They feem not to have adverted to it, that the poor
have increaſed, and that the weekly collections have been diminiſhed, for
various reaſons, in many pariſhes during that period, while the expence of
maintaining any poor perfon has neceffarily increaſed, with the increaſed
prices of labour, and the neceffaries of life.
It cannot be denied, that where the collections are fufficient for the pur-
poſe, there is no plan for the maintenance of the poor that can be com
pared
VOL. XVI.
F
42
Statistical Account
difficulties having occurred, refpecting the nature of the
property liable to the payment of thefe affeffments, parti-
cularly
pared to it, either in respect to the nature of the fund, or the purity of its
management. But where they are infufficient, recourſe muſt be had to af
feffments, or poors-rates, as they are frequently called, per invidiam; be.
cauſe that is a term that ought to occafion no fmall alarm, though in very
material refpects, they are entirely different from the tax of that name in
England. Thoſe affeffments, when recourſe muſt be had to them, ought in
juſtice and common fenfe to be as equally and fairly laid on as poffible. In
country pariſhes, where there are no other inhabitants, but landholders and
their tenants and cottagers, when the collections are infufficient, the bug-
den muſt fall upon the land, that is, on the heritors and their tenants, be-
cauſe the cottagers are unable to pay. But in large towns fuch as this,
where the rents of houfes and other rentable property are equal to that of the
land rent, it would be quite unreaſonable and unjust to throw the whole
burden on the land; and no rule feems to be more equal than the rental,
deducing a fourth for repairs, and always cxempting the houſes below a
certain ſum, to vary according to the circumstances of the place. I know
few fubjects, that more deſerve the attention of all men of property of this
At pre-
country; landed or otherwiſe, than the maintenance of the poor.
fent, when they are paſt their labour, they are wretchedly ill fupported in
towns, though nothing can be laid to the charge of the adminiſtrators for
the poor, who manage their feanty funds with the utmoſt frugality. Were
it not for the great number of focieties in this, and in other pariſhes of like
deſcription, who, by means of weekly fubfcriptions of fmall fums, raiſe a
fund for aid to their members, when they are laid off their work by fick-
nefs, or for annuities to their widows after their deceaſe, the poor would
become a much heavier load on the opulent than they are at prefent.
There are many uſeful hints and obfervations on this fubject in the dif-
ferent Statifical Accounts; and none, that the writer of this article has obfer-
ved, better than thoſe that are to be found in the account of the parish of
Portmoak, (vol. 5. p. 156). It muſt be obſerved, however, that the author,
after having ſtated the diſadvantages that arife from a legal proviſion, im.
mediately propoſes to have the ſubſcriptions of ſocieties authoriſed by law,
which feems to be making then liable to thoſe very diſadvantages which
he had juſt ſtated. For the method he approves of feems little different
* See Statifical Account of Alloa, vol. 8. No. 40.
from
of Inveresk.
43
cularly whether mills and coal rents were legally fubject to
them, law-fuits have been carried on, which ſtill remain
undecided at the end of five years. This proves either that
the laws on the fubject are very defective, or that law pro-
cedure is more dilatory than could have been expected, in
matters that relate to the police of the country.-Notwith-
ſtanding the difficulty there is in providing for the ordinary
poor, it muſt be owned, that perfons of condition in this
pariſh, (not to mention the family of the patron, which re-
fides half the year in the neighbourhood, and is a never-
failing ſource of beneficence to all proper objects), are al-
ways ready to relieve the wants of the indigent, who are
not on the ordinary roll.
Advantages. The parish of Inverek has every advan-
tage in point of air and climate, that is to be found in any
fituation fo far north. It is pleaſant and healthy, and none
but
from that eſtabliſhed here, viz. an affeffment on all the inhabitants, except
the pooreſt claſs, by a rental; excepting only in this, that it is not under
the authorlty of law. The one is hitherto voluntary, and the other is not.
But experience teaches us, that no contribution remains long juſt and equal,
that is voluntary. Perhaps it may be wife, in many cafes, to give up the
former, for the fake of the greater energy of the latter. What the writer
hereof would humbly fuggeſt to the leading people of this country is, a
well-digefted poors law; and in the mean time, he would earneſtly call the
attention of refiding heritors to the care of the poor, who fhould have two
objects conſtantly in their eye, 1ft, A comfortable proviſion for fuch as are paſt
their labour, and for children; and 2dly, Good economy, and the moſt equal
and impartial method of raiſing the funds. Where the Sundays collections
are ſufficient, nothing can be fuperadded to the care and vigilance, the dif
intereſtedness and frugality of the elders of the reſpective parishes, but a
little more inſpection and encouragement than is ufual on the part of the
heritors.
N. B. There has an act of Parliament paffed in July 1793, patting all
the charitable focieties who chufe to accept of it under legal protection
which extends to Scotland.
44
Statiſtical Account
ment.
but thoſe who are difpofed to be idle can want employ-
Their fubferviency to the city of Edinburgh for
many neceffary articles furniſhes conftant buſineſs to the in-
duſtrious, and a ready market for every thing they carry
there. As there are no great manufactories eſtabliſhed in
the pariſh, there is no ſudden fluctuation between riches
and poverty, and confequently no great hopes or fears are
excited; and no great riſks are run in the humble, but ſteady
and ſafe employments, in which the bulk of the people are
engaged. They are in general contented and unambitious,
and would always be fo, did not their conftant intercourſe
with the capital, which is of fo much advantage to them in
other reſpects, expoſe them to the falfe arts of indefatigable
feducers, who, under pretence of Reform, wiſh to fubvert
the preſent happy government, and introduce democratical
anarchy in its ftead. They have all the pleaſures of an ex-
tenfive fociety, and of a conſtant intercourſe with ſtrangers,
which has the effect of exciting focial affections, and intro-
ducing urbanity among them. Being the inhabitants of a
very ancient burgh, and many poffeffors of tenements ha-
ving enjoyed them from father to fon for hundreds of years,
there is a kind of nobleſſe, ſo to call them, among the
burghers, who think themſelves entitled to more reſpect
than the reft, and who often deferve and obtain it. Add
to this, that here may be learned all the neceffary arts or
trades, and likewife the rudiments of a liberal education,
to qualify the youth of both fexes for the feveral lines of
life in which they may be engaged, at lefs expence, and
with lefs danger of the infection of bad company and exam-
ple than in large cities.
Improvements. Within the courfe of 40 years, their
condition has been greatly improved, as has been mentioned
already,
of Inveresk.
45
already, and could be pointed out in many more inſtances.
One other article needs only be mentioned, which is the
improvement of their houfes, that has taken place of late
years. The materials for building are cheap and at hand,
and the proprietors have rebuilt many of their old cottages,
and made handſome and commodious dwellings for them-
ſelves, with upper floors, to let for ſea-bathing, or for fum-
mer lodgings; which the inhabitants of the capital find very
agreeable and convenient, as they are at ſo ſmall a diſtance
from the ſcene of their buſineſs, and they can have the op-
portunity of going to town every day in one of the five
ſtage-coaches eſtabliſhed here, or in thoſe that pafs from
Preſton-Pans, Haddington, or Dunbar, from nine in the
morning till two in the afternoon.
Difadvantages.-There are few or no diſadvantages to
which this place is liable, that are not common to many
other burghs of the fame deſcription, and which chiefly ariſe
from a defective and careleſs police. This is owing to the
magiftrates being too much on a level with the other
burghers, and too dependent on the good will of the popu-
lace for their livelihood, which checks their exertion of au-
thority, and makes them timid in the execution of the
laws *. There is one horrid nuiſance, which was formerly
almoft
* Above 30 years ago, there were a few independent gentlemen admit-
ted to the council and magistracy, who gave a beginning to a ſtricter me-
thod of police, and who paid due attention to markets, and weights, and
meaſures, and to the cleaning of the ſtreets and lanes, and the fuppreffion of
vagrants, and who, notwithstanding, preferved their popularity with all
ranks. Had their plans been followed out, this village, confidering the
great rife in their revenue fince that period, muft have been the moſt com-
modious and inviting place to live in of any in Scotland. It is the more
inconceivable in them, to preclude themſelves from the weight and energy
of perfons of the above defcription, that they have no political power, not
being
}
46
Statistical Account
almoſt entirely aboliſhed, which now prevails more than
ever; that is, the killing animals in the ftreets; a practice.
contrary to law, moft unwholefome, and highly offenfive.
Confidering that the place is ſo much reforted to for edu
cation, it is not merely a fhame; it is criminal, to fuffer
the youth to be daily fhocked with, or hardened to the
dying agonies of animals, and to be obliged to wade in filth.
and gore in paffing along the ſtreets.-The ſtate of the
church too is a great difadvantage to the parish. Befides its
ruinous condition, it is too ſmall, and at too great a diſtance
from the populous towns, which are almoft four fifths of
the whole. It has been obferved, that this place had the
advantage of an almoſt hourly communication with Edin-
burgh, by means of fiſhwives, carriers of all forts, and ſtage-
coaches, which rendered the conveyance of letters both
cheap and commodious. Of late, on pretence of ſerving
the place, the General Poft-office has extended a penny..
poſt over us, which turns out a real grievance. Our cor-
refpondents at Edinburgh pay a penny on putting in their
letters, and we have three halfpence to pay when they are
delivered here. It is not believed, that there is ſuch a piece
of extortion in any part of Great Britain. In London, one
penny is all that is exacted. This muſt appear doubly op-
preffive, when it is confidered, that we are not allowed the
benefit of our fituation, 6 miles eastward on the poſt-road to
London, but have our letters carried paft us to Edinburgh,
and ſent back at the additional charge of a penny per letter.
This is a real grievance, that deferves more attention than
all the imaginary ones, that have of late been fo loudly com-
plained of.
Roads.
being a royal burgh; and therefore they can, or at leaſt ought, to have no
other object, but the laying out of the revenue for the good of the com-
munity.
of Inveresk.
47
Roads.-The roads, too, in the parish are thought to be
in a worſe ſtate than any in the county of Mid-Lothian, for
which the magiftrates are not to blame, as their ſtreet,
which make ths of a mile of the poft road, are kept in
very good order. Confidering how largely the inhabitants
of this parish contribute to the roads, by paying at the
turnpike gates between this and Edinburgh and Leith, and
that the very numerous carriages of the pariſh have for
many years been under the direction of the county, this
ſeems very unaccountable. The roads leading to the coal
pits are kept in better order, which is of much advantage
to the inhabitants, not merely for their own fupply with
fuel, but for the fake of a great number of people, who
earn their livelihood by the carriage of that article *. The
pavement or cauſeway of the ſtreets is kept in tolerable
good order; but the foot paths in wet weather are ſhame-
fully dirty, which is the more inexcufable, as the town
draws above L. 70 per annum for the dung of the ftreets,
which formerly were a charge to them. It may likewife
be obferved here, that too little attention is paid to the ac-
commodation of trades people and labourers, who have oc-
cafion to travel fo frequently to the neighbouring town of
Dalkeith. Forty years ago, when the fields were unin-
clofed, the road to that town from Fiſherrow was a mile
nearer than it is now. The road from Muffelburgh has
likewiſe been much lengthened by means of incloſures.
The road is narrow, and the people who travel on foot are
forced to go, for at leaſt a mile, in mud over the ſhoes, be-
tween two walls or hedges, or to break over the fences; a
little attention, and a very ſmall expence, might rectify
this.
Conftitution.
* Since the above was written, the county have repaired the poft road
through the parish.
**
48
Statiſtical Account
:
Conftitution.-The fame objections lie againſt the conſti-
tution of this burgh, as againſt many other burghs of Scot-
land, viz. that they are liable to an oligarchy, and that it is
impracticable, as the law now ſtands, for the burgeffes to
obtain any redreſs for the miſmanagement of the public re-
venue; and they are attended with the fame ill confequen-
ces as in other burghs, viz. the diſcontent and bad humour
of the inhabitants. It must be owned, that it is not pro-
bable, that the finances would be better managed in the
hands of thoſe who complain, than in the hands of the pre-
fent fet; for, befides that many of the grounds of complaint
would be found to be imaginary, if enquired into, the cor-
poration ſpirit is ftrong enough to infect the new entrants
as well as the old poffeffors. Ancient conftitutions ought
to be reſpected, and innovations are dangerous. All this is
allowed; and it is farther granted, that a too popular or
democratical government, is more tumultuous and hazar-
dous than one in the contrary extreme; and that it is not
improbable, that the experience of fuch evils may have, in
ancient times, been the reafon for devolving fo much power
into the hands of the town-councils. Nevertheless, the
circumſtances of the times, and the change in the ſtate of
the burghs, might be attended to; and it may be wife in
our legiſlators, at their leiſure, in times of tranquillity, to
confider whether or not, without incurring any of the above
mentioned dangers, a plan ought not to be deviſed, for
preventing at leaſt the exclufion of the principal citizens
or burgeffes in rotation, into the councils of their re-
ſpective towns, and of putting an end to that oligarchy,
or government of a few, which is apt to extinguish in
the holders of it every idea but that of preſerving
their own power; and obliges them, for this purpoſe,
to elect into their body infignificant people, or up-
3
ftarts
of Inveresk.
49
starts and ſtrangers, and to exclude the most wealthy and
reſpectable of their burgeffes. It is this narrow fyſtem of
municipal and political government, which is fo irkſome to
the inhabitants of many burghs in Scotland; which fours
their minds, and difpofes them to liften with greedy ears
to pretended plans of reform in the conftitution, however
remote their connection may be, with the redreſs of any
real grievances they have to complain of.
And yet, after all, fuch a change ought never to be at-
tempted, till it has been calmnly confidered, whether or not
ſuch an attempt may produce greater evils, than thoſe that
are complained of. For when it is confidered, that to pro-
mote the virtue and happineſs of the people is the object of
Government, and that their liberty, both political and civil,
is fufficiently fecured by the fundamental laws of the
realm, without expofing them to all the licenſe and debau-
chery of popular elections, a wife patriot will be patient
under partial evils, and cautious in feconding plans of re-
form, which are not neceffary to the fecurity of freedom,
and may tend to the corruption of the people.
Upon the whole, next to virtue and good morals, the
comfortable ſtate of this community depends on the profpe-
rity of the capital, with which it is fo much connected, and
on the difintereſtedneſs and activity of its magiftrates, in re-
gulating the police, and laying out their funds in uſeful
improvements.
VOL. XVI.
1
і
G
NUM.
50
Statistical Account
NUMBER II.
PARISH OF HERIOT,
(COUNTY OF MID-LOTHIAN, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND
TWEEDDALE, PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH.)
By the Rev. Mr ALEXANDER HUNTER, Minifter.
T
Name, Form, Extent, and Surface.
HE name of this parish, from all we can learn, ſeems
to have been always the fame. It is uncertain, how-
ever, what gave rife to it. Its figure is irregular. Its
length from E. to W. is about 10 miles, and its breadth
about 6. The furface is compofed of fome flat grounds on
the N. E.; of fome valleys on the fides of the rivers He-
riot and Gala, &c.; but mostly of hills, inclining to moun-
tains. The latter are covered with heath, fometimes in-
terſected with fields, which, after being a few years cropped,
are ſown out, and afford pretty rich paſture for ſheep. It
is ill-judged frugality, perhaps, in the farmer, not to ſow
fome red, or, at leaft, fome white clover, along with his
rye-grafs, in thefe fields; this would both meliorate the
land, and enrich the paſture.
Rivers.
of Heriot.
5L
Rivers.-The Heriot rifes at the weft end of the pariſh.
Enfum-cleugh in Dewar, Garwell punks, and Blackhope
Scares are the fuppofed fources. It flows eaft, divides the
parish into two, and then lofes itſelf in the water of Gala.
The Gala rifes in the east end of the pariſh, at a place
called Nettleflat Wells, or Whitelaw Well, within the pro-
perty of Mr Borthwick of Crookſtoun. It runs fouth,
paffes Galafhiells, and then difembogues itſelf into the
Tweed. Theſe rivers abound with trouts, which gentlemen
come from all quarters to fifh. It is much to be regretted,
that the gentlemen in the neighbourhood permit poachers.
with nets to vifit theſe prolific rivers. A party of three or
four will fally out from Edinburgh, Dalkeith, &c. and in
a ſhort ſpace fill their creel or bag, by ſweeping every thing
before them. They exemplify the old proverb, "All is fifh
"that comes in the net." Even the falmon, in cloſe time,
which come up to fpawn, do not eſcape a dreadful maf-
facre. During the autumnal months, and after a few
weeks, the water is covered with lights, compofed of old
facks, or rags and tar; and the lifter *, as it is commonly
called, is heard plunging in every hole.
Animals. The quadrupeds are horfes, black cattle,
ſheep, hogs, hares, and badgers. The birds are partridges,
muirfowl, and plovers, &c. befides the common domeſtic
fowls.
Soil, Cultivation, and Produce.-The foil in general, ex-
cept in the valleys, is thin and gravelly; it admits of a ſti-
mulus, fuch as lime, and then is not a little productive.
The farmers often fay," they have plenty of growth, if
1
(6
'they
*This is an inftrument with a long fhaft, having three or four iron
toes at the end, barbed, with which the fish are killed.
*
52
Statistical Account
66
they had warmth of climate to bring it to maturity." It
yields very good oats, bear, peas, and potatoes. Wheat
has been attempted, but with very little fuccefs. Within
theſe very few years, turnips and artificial graſs have been
cultivated, and they now obtain, as a part of our fyftem
of farming; an improvement not more beneficial to the
land, than lucrative to the husbandman; the one prepares
the ground for good bear, and the other for excellent oats.
Farms, Sheep, Wool, &c.—The farms are of various extent,
from 0 to 1000 acres, and let at various rents, according to
their quality and fituation, from L. 40 to L. 200 Sterling.
They are moftly laid out in pafture. To this the farmer has a
natural predilection, and cheerfully devotes his attention,
care,and diligence. The ſheep are of confiderable fize, hardy,
and thrive well. The farmers do not affect the Engliſh breed,
neither do they wish to buy in new ſtock. Such as are bred
on the ground they confider as more durable, and leſs liable
to diſeaſe. They bring good prices, from L. 10 to L. 14
Sterling, the ſcore; their wool from 8 s. to 10 s. the ſtone.
Ewe cheeſe abounds here. This, for nine weeks, engroffes
almoſt the whole attention of the buſy houſe-wife and her
maids. It is, perhaps, inferior to none in quality, cleanli-
neſs, and reliſh; and makes no ſmall additional income to
the tenant. The average price, for fome years paſt, has
been about 7 s. the ftone.
Population. It is generally believed, that the population
of this parish has decreafed confiderably within theſe 20 or
30 years. Led farms are faid to be the chief cauſe of this
depopulation. True patriotiſm, and èven an enlightened
policy, according to our ideas, ſhould ſtimulate proprietors
to check this pernicious practice. The inhabitants of the
villages, fuch as Heriot-town, Chapel, c. are alſo dimi-
nished,
of Heriot.
53
{
niſhed, through the baneful operation of the above ſyſtem.
The tenant having no uſe either for the houſes or the in-
habitants, the former are fuffered to tumble down into
ruins, and the latter muft go in queft of employment
fomewhere elſe. Notwithſtanding thefe difadvantages,
however, which have doubtlefs reduced the number of the
parishioners within thefe 20 or 30 years, it is a fact, that
the population has increaſed confiderably upon the whole,
within thefe 40 years; for the number of fouls at preſent
(1794) in the pariſh amounts to
300
whereas the return to Dr Webſter in 1755, was only 209
91
Hence there is evidently an increaſe of
The annual average of marriages, births, and deaths is
about 4.
Religious Perfuafions.-Of the above number, nearly the
one half are Burgher Seceders. Part go to a meeting-
houſe, (as the common phrafe is). at Stow, about 8 miles,
and part to Fala about 6 miles diſtant.
Cburch. The church is an old and infirm building. It
is fcarcely fafe to perform public duty in it. It is neither
dry above, nor decently feated. It is, perhaps, the moſt
fhabby and miſerable place of accommodation for divine
ſervice in Scotland. The heritors, however, have juſt met
and agreed to make fome fmall repairs upon it; among which
there is to be a new bell, the old one being rent *. The manfe
was in the fame ruinous fituation, but was rebuilt laft
year. Owing partly to the meaſures adopted by the
heritors,
*On the old bell, there is this infcription: "MARIA Vocor. Ao. Dni.
"MCCCCCXVIII JHONN. DAWIE." The kirk is perhaps older than this
bell as above ſtated, but there is no legend, infcription, or even tradition,
to found an opinion upon.
54
Statistical Account
і
heritors, and partly to the negligence or incapacity of the
builders, it is fuperficial to the laft degree. Upon the leaft
blaſt, it draws water from every quarter, and overflows the
rooms. This renders the houſe extremely damp, and con-
fequently dangerous to health. The ftipend is exactly 1000
merks, including facramental clements. The glebe, about
14 Scotch acres, is partly arable, and partly fit for paſture.
There is a proceſs for an augmentation going on. Sir John
Dalrymple is patron.
Proprietors.-The heritors are 7 in number, vix. Lord
Rofeberry, Sir John Dalrymple, Thomas Adinſton of Car-
cant, John Borthwick of Crookſtoun, George Cranston of
Dewar, Simon Fraſer of Ford, and Mifs Tait of Fala-hill.
None refide in the parish.
School. The ſchool-maſter's falary is 100 merks. The
average number of ſcholars is 10. The fmallneſs of the
number is owing to the age and infirmity of the teacher,
who is above 70 years of age; to his ignorance of the lan-
guages, and particularly to his want of a ſchool houſe. He
has only a fmall cottage, and an area of about 8 feet
by 16, taken off the end of it as his fchool; and even
this is crammed with tables, forms, and other houſe-
hold ftuff, as the fchool-mafter has no place elfe to
lodge them. This want of accommodation greatly affects
the emoluments of the teacher, and the education of the
youth of the parish. The fees for teaching to read Engliſh
are Is., writing and arithmetic 1 s. 6 d. the quarter. He is
alſo precentor, feffion-clerk, beadle, grave-digger, and yet
his whole income does not exceed L. 8 Sterling per annum.
This, with the paltry accommodation, holds out little en-
couragement to a teacher of any merit. Indeed, no man
who poffeffes ftrength to lift a mattock, or to weild a flail,
would
of Heriot.
55
would accept of ſuch a diſgraceful pittance. In theſe times,
when there is fuch a general rife in all the neceffaries of
life, what progrefs in learning or in fcience is to be ex-
pected in any part of the kingdom, when that uſeful and
neceſſary ſet of men are depreffed by poverty?
Poor.-There are no poor in this parish, either in the
roll, or as vagrant beggars. Economy, joined to induſtry,
has placed thofe of the inferior ranks above indigence.
They attend diligently to their reſpective buſineſs, and
reap the fruits of their own labours. Hence we may infer,
that our public fund is increafing; hence alfo, an affeff-
ment for the poor is unknown in this pariſh.
Occupations.-Befides the farmers and their fervants,
there are in the parish:
Carpenters,
Smiths,
Tailors,
2
Weavers,
3 Mafon,
2
Miller,
4
Ι
I
Prices of Labour and Provifions.-The wages of a day-
labourer in huſbandry are I s. and often I s. 2 d. per day,
without maintenance, and 8 d. and fometimes 10 d.
with it per day. A man's yearly wages are from L. 7
to L. 9 Sterling. Thofe of a female fervant from L. 3 to
L. 4 Sterling. It is a circumftance not unworthy of notice,
perhaps, that ſhe draws only L. 1, 5 s. or L. 1, 10 s. for the
winter half-year, and all the reft, L. 2, 15 s. or even L. 3
Sterling, for the fummer. The ftore farmer is the occa-
fion of this. Such as keep two maids for the winter re-
quire 4 or 5 for the fummer, in order to milk their ewes,
cut down their crops, and hoe turnips. Hence the de-
mand for fervants is greater, and of courſe raiſes their
wages. A mafon's wages are Is. 6 d. with maintenance,
or
|
56.
Statistical Account
t
or 2 s. without it; a carpenter's 1 s. 6 d. without, or 9 d.
with it; a tailor's 8 d. with it, and all others in proportion..
The prices of provifions, fince the year 1740, are doubled,
and ſome tripled. Eggs, then 1 d. and 2 d. the dozen, now
fell at 5 d. and 6 d. and often are not even to be got; hens,
formerly 6 d. now draw 1 s. 2 d. and i s. 4 d.; butter, for-
merly 5 d. is now 9 d. 10 d. and I s. the pound; butcher
meat, formerly 24 d. now 4 d. and 5 d. per pound; cheeſe,
formerly 3 s. or 4 s. the ftone, is now 7 s. and 8 s.;
coals, fince the year 1790, have rifen from 8 d. to 1 s. 1 d.
the tub, which contains 400 lb. Dutch weight. The grain
of this parish is carried to Dalkeith market, (which is held
weekly on Thurfday), and fold for ready money. Oats
bring from 12 s. to 18 s. Sterling per boll, and bear from
14 s. to L. I.
Roads and Inns.-The roads in the parish are in a pretty
good ſtate of repair, particularly the public or Gala-water
road. This is one of the London roads. It comes from
Edinburgh by Laffwade, Cockpen, Middleton, Heriot,
Bankhouſe, Selkirk, &c. Good roads are one ſtriking cauſe
of the improvement of the country in this place. Heriot
public houfe was the ancient ftage from Edinburgh, and
was much frequented. It is near 16 miles from Edinburgh.
It belongs to Sir John Dalrymple, but is now deſerted by
genteel and faſhionable company, in confequence of the
erection of two new inns at Middleton and Bank-houſe.
There is another public houfe in the parish, called Sware-
bouſe, which is the property of Mifs Tait.
toll bar near Heriot houfe, to the north.
1½ d. a faddle horſe, 3 d. a fingle, and 44 d. a double cart.
There is one
It is railed to
Fuel, &c.-Coals, peats, and turfs, are uſed for fuel; the
two latter abound in the pariſh, and the former is about
6 or 7 miles diſtant, viz. Stobhill, belonging to Mr Dun-
3
das
of Heriot.
57
ぷ
​das of Arniſton, at prefent Lord Advocate. We have no
manufactures here, which is very furprifing, as we have
abundance of water during the whole year for driving ma-
chinery; and the rather, as we are near coal, and have plenty
of other fuel, as well as near market towns, fuch as Edin-
burgh, Leith, Haddington, Lauder, Dalkeith, &c.
Antiquities.-There are in Carcant fome veftiges of houfes
called Shiels-Walls; and on Roughfwyre ground, three Char-
ter Poles in different places, but no fatisfactory account of
them can be obtained. There is on Heriot-town hill-head, a
circle of high ftones, 70 or 80 feet diameter; and on Borth-
wick-hall Mid-hill-head, there are 3 large rings, or deep
ditches, about 100 paces diameter. Whether they were old
encampments of the Romans, or of the Britons, Danes, Picts,
and Scots, we shall not venture to determine; all tradition
about them here is extinct. There is a circle on the fide
of the Gala road, near the Bridge, over the water of He-
riot, and behind a weaver's cottage, belonging to the Abbey
of Melrofe; to this place were driven horſes, cattle, ſheep,
c. when they were poinded or rouped for behoof of the
creditor. On the march between this and the parish of
Inverleithen, in the farm of Dewar, there is a grave, called
the Piper's Grave. He was piper of Peebles *. The head
and foot ſtones are viſible to this day. On Dewar Hill, not
far from the above grave, there is a remarkable large
ftone, called Lot's Wife: the reafon of this title is unknown.
At a little diſtance from this, there is the Wolf Cleuch, of which
a traditional ſtory † is afferted as truth. A little from the
VOL. XVI.
H
high
* The tradition is, that he engaged for a certain wager, to blow from
Peebles to Lauder, at a certain number of blafts; that he failed in the at-
tempt, died there, and was buried on the fpot.
The tradition is, that this cleuch was inhabited by a wolf, which
Laid waste the country around. It attacked and deftroyed every paffen-
ger.
58
Statiſtical Account
.
high road, and not far from Heriot public houſe, there is a
ſtone, called Mary Gib's, from an unfortunate woman who
was burnt upon this ftone for a witch. The children, to
this day, in going and coming from fchool, affect to be af-
fraid when they paſs by it.
Climate and Character.-The air in every part of the
pariſh is falubrious; hence the inhabitants in general are
very robuſt and healthy. Some live to a great age. One
died lately, born in the laſt century, and the laſt miniſter
was going 87. The people are induſtrious, and highly
œconomical, fober, peaceable, humane, and given to ho-
fpitality. Their drefs is quite fimple, and their manners
plain and unaffected. They are regular in their attendance.
on divine ordinances. They are rather badly accommo-
dated for houſes, which are fhabby dirty huts. Although
the parish is within two or three miles of lime at Mid-
dleton, they are ftill built of turf and ftone in regular fuc-
ceffion. The feats of our lairds are very little better.
Difadvantages.-There is no planting or incloſures in
this parish, except a cow park or two. This is certainly
a great defect in agricultural improvement; befides, it
with-holds from the country a principal beauty; add to
this, that the lands have no fhelter, and even the very ſheep
are ſo expoſed, as ſometimes to be overwhelmed and buried
in the flow by ſcores. A farmer loft about 12 ſcore this
winter in one night. Such offes are the more ferious, as
ſheep are the ſtaple commodity of this parish. Two-horſe
ploughs are all in ufe here; there is no fuch thing as an
OX
ger.
A reward was offered, that the man who should kill this beaſt ſhould
have thefe lands. Accordingly, one had the courage to engage it, and
fucceeded. He called the lands by his own name, Dewar..
of Heriot.
59
ox to be ſeen in the yoke. We would be cautious to pro-
nounce this any real acquifition to the farmer. A dead ox
is better than a dead horſe, and a fat ox will fell any where,
when a fine horfe will ſcarce find a merchant. Befides,
they are cheaply maintained, and in general ſteady plowers.
The riſe of farms for fome years paſt has been confuerable.
This is partly owing to the odious practice of one farmer
fubfetting to another. There are lands in the barony of
Sir John Dalrymple fub-fub-fubfet; the conlequence is, the
original tackfman is a kind of fecond laird, and the laſt is
oppreſſed with anxiety and toil to make up his rent. Far-
mers who enjoy the right of fubfetting are the moſt exor-
bitant in their claims. Ye noblemen and gentlemen, pro-
prietors of land, ſpeedily aboliſh ſub-ſets and led farms; the
poor will bleſs you, and pofterity unborn will riſe up and
proclaim your patriotic virtues!
NUM.
63
Statistical Account
NUMBER IIL
PARISH OF CASTLETOWN,
(COUNTY OF ROXBURGH, PRESBYTERY OF LANGHOLM,
SYNOD OF DUMFRIES.)
By the Rev. Mr JAMES ARKLE, Miniſter.
Origin of the Names.
THE origin of the modern, as well as of the ancient
name of this parish, is abundantly plain. Upon the
fummit of a precipice, about 100 feet perpendicular, on
the eaſt bank of the river Liddal, and immediately above
the church, there was a ftrong fort or caftle, the rampart
and foffeè of which remain entire near to thefe, in the
place where the prefent road was formed, and in feveral
other parts in the immediate neighbourhood, many hearth-
ftones were dug up, where a town or village had formerly
ftood. Hence the name of Caftle-town. But the ancient
name of this diſtrict, and indeed that by which it is ftill
moſt frequently denominated, was Liddifdale, from the
river Liddal, which runs through it in a direction from eaſt
to fouth. In the ancient hiftories, and geographical ac-
counts of Scotland, it is called the county of Liddifdale, and
in old writs it is defigned the Lordship of that name.
Erection,
"
of Caftletown.
61
Erection, Form, and Extent.-This parish formerly be-
longed to the Prefbytery of Jedburgh; but when the five
churches of Efkdale were erected into the Prefbytery of
Langholm, it was added to them in the year 1743. This
was done on account of its great diſtance from the former
ſeat of the preſbytery. Its form approaches nearly to that
of a triangle, whoſe baſe runs from eaſt to weſt, along the
head of Teviotdale, and whofe oppofite vertex points to
Solway frith. It contains, according to the map of the
county, about 52,160 acres. It is the largeſt pariſh in the
fouth of Scotland, being upwards of 18 miles in length, and
14 in breadth.
General Appearance, Woods, &c.-The general appear-
ance of the upper part of the pariſh is mountainous; the
lower part is hilly; and all of it, at a diſtance from the
banks of the rivers, is bleak and wild to a high degree.
But its appearance along the banks of the rivers is altoge-
ther different. Thefe are generally covered with natural
woods, or young plantations in a very thriving ſtate. The
barren wilds are entirely hid from the view; the windings
of the river, and the fine holm land on every ſide, preſent
the moſt pictureſque ſcenes, or exhibit rich proſpects to the
eye. Theſe are juſtly defcribed by our native poet, Dr
Armſtrong, in his poem on Health *. The inhabited part
*
Such the stream,
On whofe Arcadian banks I first drew air.
Liddal, till now, except in Doric lays,
Tun'd to her murmurs by her love-fick fwains,
Unknown in fong; though not a purer ftream
Through meads more flow'ry,-more romantic groves,
Rolls toward the western main. Hail facred flood!
May ftill thy hofpitable ſwains be bleft
In rural innocence; thy mountains ſtill
of
Teem with the fleecy race; thy tuneful woods
For ever flourish, and thy vales look gay,
With painted meadows, and the golden grain!
Book IL
Į
62
Statiſtical Account
of the pariſh confifts of two vallies. That along the Hers
mitage is about ten miles in length, from the fource of the
river to the point where it lofes its name in the Liddal.
At the head of this river the country is entirely mountain-
ous. The mountains are very high and ſteep, but are ge-
nerally dry, and afford excellent ſheep paſture. The
greateſt part of this ftream is fringed with natural wood;
it poffeffes much rural beauty, and exhibits the paſtoral
ſcenes of life in great perfection. The other valley, or
ſtrath, is that along the fides of the Liddal. Near the head
of the pariſh on the eaſt, the rivers Liddal and Tyne, which
runs by Newcaſtle, take their rife, in the midst of an im-
menſe bog, furrounded by mountains. This place is very
properly named Dead water, becauſe for a confiderable
ſpace neither of them can be traced as a running ſtream.
The Tyne winds flowly to the eaſt, between the bleak
mountains and the dreary waftes of Northumberland, by
Keelder Caftle*. The Liddal runs due weſt for a few miles,
and then runs due fouth. This part of the country is
mountainous, high, cold and moift, and lies under the
thick and folitary gloom of continual fogs. For ten miles
down the river its banks are entirely naked; the hills on
each fide produce a great quantity of grafs. At the point
where it is joined by the Hermitage the banks are covered.
with trees. On the north fide the thriving plantations of
the Duke of Buccleugh, and on the fouth the plantations
and woods of Mr Elliot of Whitehaugh, near the confluence
of the rivers, form a landfcape highly beautiful. Here the
valley widens confiderably, and improvements are every
where ſeen. From this hill you reach the confines of
Canonby; the ride is very much admired by travellers.
The new town rifing in view, and building upon an ele-
*Keelder Caſtle is a hunting feat of the Duke of Northumberland.
gant
of Castletown.
63
gant plan; the femicircular groves of trees, and the fertile
fields, and windings of the river Liddal, contribute their
various beauties to delight the eye.
Mountains.-The principal mountains are Tudhope,
Millenwood-fell, Windhead, Greatmoor, Dun, Dod, Her-
mitage, Peel-fell, Roan-fell, Larifton-fell, Carby-Laws,
and Tinnis hills. The laft mentioned is feen as a land mark
at a great diſtance out at fea. None of theſe mountains have
been meaſured by the barometer. But when Mr Stobie
furveyed the county, he meaſured thofe of the Cheviot,
Carta wifp, &c. and when on the top of the highest in this
pariſh, he compared them with others by the Theodolite;
by this it appears Tudhope is 1830 feet above the level of
the fea. Millen wood-fell and Windhead are about 2000
feet. Theſe are the higheft of them.
Rivers and Fish.-The rivers are the Liddal, the Hermi-
tage, the Tweeden, the Kerfhope, (which divides the two
kingdoms), the Tinnis and the Blackburn; with feveral
other ſtreams of inferior note. All of them are plentifully
ftored with trouts, and afford excellent fport to the angler.
Climate and Longevity.-The climate is very damp,
owing to two caules. From its proximity to the Atlantic
Ocean, a great collection of vapour arifes, which is attracted
by the mountains, and poured down in torrents of rain.
The other is owing to the nature of the foil and furface of
the hills themfelves. They are generally covered to the
very fummit with a deep ftratum of mofs, which retains
the moiſture; under the mofs lies a bed of till, through
which the water cannot eafily penetrate. Notwithſtanding
the dampness of the air, thofe who are bred in the country
enjoy good health, and many of them have arrived at a
great
64
Statiſtical Account
;
*
great age.
An inftance occurs of one Mr ELLIOT of Red-
heugh, who lately, at the age of 86, rode 50 miles in one
day, without any inconvenience, tranfacted buſineſs at a
public market, and returned to his houſe next evening,
without fleep. One man now alive, JAMES LILLICO,
marrie his third wife at 72, is now upwards of 93, enjoys
good health, and manages his ordinary bufinefs; another,
at the age of 80, is in full vigour, and frequently walks to
Edinburgh. A woman, named Margaret Wyllie, died a
few years ago at the age of 113, in the poffeffion of all her
faculties till the day of her death.
2
Diſeaſes-The fcrophula prevails frequently among the
young, and rheumatic and ftomach complaints among
thoſe more advanced in life. Inoculation is general.
Laſt ſpring a great number of children, fome men, and
women the mothers of children, were inoculated, and all
of them did well. At preſent the fmall-pox rages in the
natural way, and has carried off many. Prejudices ftill re-
main againſt inoculation, chiefly among the Seceders.
Conſumptions are frequent. Epidemic fevers ſometimes
vifit us, but are feldom fatal.
Sheep, Wool, &c.--The rents of the parish arife chiefly
from sheep, black cattle and horfes, and from tillage.
The ſheep are of the long kind; there are no ſhort ſheep
in the country. The breed of ſheep has been very much
improved of late years, by feveral individuals, who have
purchaſed rams from the eaſtern borders. The moſt intelli-
gent obferve, that croffing the breed is not only the beſt
method of improving the sheep and wool, but alſo of pre-
venting the diſeaſes to which they are liable. By conti-
nuing the fame ram, the fheep are weakened, and diſeaſes
multiplied, or rendered more inveterate; by changing him,
it
of Caftletown.
65
it is found that the ſturdy, and other diſeaſes, are leſs fre
quent. The diſorders moft prevalent are, the ſturdy, the
fickneſs, the louping ill, the rot, and the braxy. Wedders
and draught ewes are fold to dealers from Yorkshire. The
wool is fold for clothing to the manufacturing towns in
England. Laft year it fold at from 15 s. to 19 s. the ſtone;
this ſeaſon from II s. to 15 s.
The decreaſe is owing no
doubt to the ſtagnation of commerce. Moft of the farms are
feparated from each other by ftone dikes; but even where
they are not, the flocks are permitted to wander at large
in their reſpective paſtures. They are never confined in
hirſels, nor in folds by night; they ſeek their food at large,
to be found. They are all
and they know beft where it is to be found.
over-laid with tar; fome ufe palm oil in place of butter, and
approve of it. The ſheep are carefully washed before ſhearing.
The practice of milking the ewes is very much diſconti-
nued; where it is continued, it is only for a ſhort time.
It weakens the ſheep, and renders them lefs able to endure
the ſeverity of the winter. Every farmer provides a con-
fiderable quantity of hay againſt the ſtorm, and when ne-
ceffary, feeds regularly. Before this method was adopted,
much loſs was frequently ſuſtained in ſtormy ſeaſons.
Black Cattle.-Some farmers bring a confiderable num-
ber of black cattle from the markets of Falkirk, Crieff, and
Down. They are fupported during the winter by the fog.
gage and coarſe hay, and fold in the ſpring; or fed in good
paſture through the fummer, and fold fat about Martinmas;
kyloes at from L. 3 to L. 5 Sterling. Thoſe bred in the
country are of the Dutch, Lancaſter, or Galloway kinds.
The large kind fell at from L. 6 to L. 9 Sterling. Their pa-
fture is generally coarfe, excepting what lies upon lime-ſtone,
which is very fine, but the produce is always very great.
The butter which is made, even on the coarfeft pafture, is
VOL. XVI.
I
not
66
Statistical Account
4
not excelled by any in Britain. It is commonly obferved,
that the coarſer the pafture is, the butter is the better and
the richer. Even the moffy ground, though in appearance
barren, is of great uſe both for black cattle and ſheep. The
plant, called the mofs, rifes before any other in the ſpring,
affords excellent nourishment, and is carefully fought after
by the flocks. In theſe coarſe lands, there is a conſtant and
regular fucceffion of different ſpecies of graſs, which riſe in
their reſpective ſeaſons throughout the year.
crops.
Soil, Produce, and Cultivation.-The arable land at pre-
fent in tillage lies chiefly on the banks of the rivers. Many
hundred acres, formerly in tillage, are thrown into paſture
on account of the high prices of ſheep and wool. The foil
of the holm land is excellent. It is fometimes of a light,
but most frequently of a very deep and fine loam, and
where it is properly cultivated, it produces exceeding good
Wheat has been ſown, and turned out very well.
The ordinary crops are barley, or rough bear, peaſe, oats,
flax, potatoes. Turnips have lately been introduced, and
fucceeded very well. Laft fummer, travellers from Edin-
burgh faw no turnips by the way equal to thofe on the fields
in this place. Within theſe few years, a confiderable quan-
tity of grafs feeds have been fown, and have produced ex-
cellent crops. From the nature of the holm land, and fitu-
ation of the country, turnips, barley, and graſs feeds, fuc-
ceeded by early oats, will probably be found the beſt rota-
tion. The ploughs in ufe are, the Engliſh plough, and
Small's chain plough. The former, drawn by 4 horſes, is
ftill uſed by fome farmers, though, from the nature of the
land, there can be no doubt that Small's chain plough, with
two horfes, would execute the work, and anſwer the pur-
poſe much better. The ridges are made very narrow, and
confift
of Castletown.
67
confiſt of 8 furrows *. One farmer uſes a pair of oxen with
Small's plough, and approves of them.
Seafons.-Though the hills are moiſt, yet from the reflec-
tion of the fun from each fide of the valley, and its favour-
able expoſure in the fummer, the weather is very warm,
and the harveſts are early. As foon as vegetation com-
mences in the ſpring, it ſhoots forth with wonderful vi-
gour and with great rapidity, and the ordinary productions.
of the garden arrive at great perfection. Our harveſts are
much more early than in Canonby, or even part of Cum-
berland, though both of which countries lie to the ſouth of
Caſtletown Oats and peaſe are ſown in March and April;
barley in the end of April or beginning of May, and they
are all reaped in September.
Population.-The population of this pariſh has decreaſed
a little within thefe 40 years, as appears from the follow-
ing table. This decreaſe is eafily accounted for, by feveral
farms, formerly let to different tenants, being now pof-
feffed
*The whole of the holm land along the banks of the river appears
formerly to have been covered with wood, and the fides of the hills to
have been almost entirely in cultivation; the furrows and ridges are
plain and evident. But at this period, to fow corn on thoſe places, or to
expect a crop, would be equally vain. What is the cauſe of this change?
When the vallies were covered with wood to a certain height, were the
fides of the hills more warm? Were the feafons themſelves then more
kindly, as tradition pofitively affirms? Or were the inhabitants obliged
to ultivate the high grounds, when the lower were covered with wood?
About the middle of the hills, on each fide the river Liddal, a deep ditch,
or a ſtrong wall, appears to have been drawn almoſt the whole length
of the country, beneath which lay the arable ground, where the old fur-
rows and ridges appear, and all above was either for pafture or common.
In thoſe days every kind of fence was neceffary, not only from beafts of
the field, but alſo from the inroads of the plunderer.
¿
68
Statistical Account
feffed by one, and not a few by perfons, who do not refide
in, or belong to the pariſh at all.
STATISTICAL TABLE OF THE PARISH OF CASTLETOWN.
Number of fouls, in 1755, as returned to Dr
{
666
Ditto in December 1793, Females, 752
Majority of females,
Number of inhabitants in the new village,
1507
In all, 1418
86 Decreaſe, 89
70
Marriages. Baptifms*.
In the year 1709,
4
38
-1710,
7
50
From 1749 to 1774,
464
From 1763 to 1770,
43
AGES.
With regard to marriages and baptifms, the pariſh regiſter is very
imperfect. Several books have been loft, which make. blanks of confide-
rable periods. There is a minute inſerted in the feffion records, of date
17th January 1649, which mentions, "That the English army, com-
"manded by Colonels Bright and Pride, and under the conduct of Ge-
"neral Cromwell, on their return to England, did lie at the kirk of
"Castletown feveral nights, in which time they brake down and burnt
"the communion tables, and the feats of the kirk; and at their remo-
ving, carried away the miniſter's books to the value of 1000 marks
❝ and above, and alſo the books of feffion, with which they lighted their
"tobacco pipes, the baptiſm, inarriage, and examination rolls, from
« October 1612 to September 1648, all which were loft and deſtroyed.”
From the accuracy with which this record had been kept, the lofs of it is
very much to be regretted. If we may form any judgment from the
number of churches and chapels in the parish at that time, with the
burying grounds, and alſo from the ruins of many houſes and villages,
the number of the inhabitants must have been much greater at that pe-
riod than at prefent. No account of the burials can now be given, be-
cauſe there are three burying grounds ſtill uſed, and a mortcloth, the
property of private individuals, and not belonging to the kirk-feffion.
1
of Castletown.
69
AGES.
No. of fouls under 10 years
Between 50 and 70,
234
of age,
342
70 and 80,
31
Between 10 and 20,
280
80 and 90,
14
20 and 50,
516
90 and 100,
I
CONDITIONS AND PROFESSIONS.
No. of Heritors, refident, 4 No. of fmiths,
5
Ditto occafionally, 3
mafons,
12
Ditto non-refident,
4
joiners,
14
farmers,
46
weavers,
16
fhop-keepers,
9
fhoe-makers,
8
furgeons,
I
cloggers,
3
ſtudents at the Uni-
tailors,
13
verfity,
clergymen,
2 2
millers,
3
bakers,
4
fchool-mafters,
innkeepers,
3 3
poor on the.
roll,
74
FARMS AND Rents.
Number of led farms *, 15
Valued rent in Scotch
Greateſt rent of theſe
money,
L. 15,860
about
No. of ſheep,
black cattle,
L. 300 Real do. Sts. about L. 6000
STOCK.
36,000 No. of ploughs,
1200
44
carts, about
150
}
for butcher meat, groceries, &c. are Hawick and Lang-
Commerce, Proviſions and Labour.-The only markets
holm;
* Farms are ſtyled led, when one tenant poffeffes two or more,
does not refide on them.
and
70
Statiſtical Account
holm; ſo that the prices of theſe articles are regulated by
thoſe places, with the addition of a confiderable expence
for carriage. Butter, fold formerly at 4 d. afterwards at
6 d. fells now at 9 d. per pound; a confiderable quantity is
put up in firkins, and fent to Newcaſtle for the London
market. Dealers buy it on the ſpot, and this ſeaſon pay
L. 1, 13 s. L. 1, 14 s. and L. 1, 15 s. per firkin, of 56 lb.
English. The price, however, frequently varies, running
from L. 1, 1 s. to L. 1, 10 s. Cow-milk cheeſe fells for
4 s. 6 d. per ſtone, and ewe-milk for 7 s. or 7 s. 6d. Hens
and ducks fell at 6 d. each, chickens at 3 d. and geefe at
1 s. 6 d. and 2 s. Theſe articles have varied little in price
theſe ſeveral years. The prices of labour have riſen ex-
ceedingly within thefe 40 or 50 years, as appears from
the following comparative ſtatement:
Wages in 1740.
Wages in 1793.
L. 3 10 0
from L. 8 to L. 10 o
0 16 6+
2 10 O
1 5 0
A man fervant with main-
tenance, from L. 3 to
A woman fervant with ditto,
in fummer,
Ditto in winter,
A day labourer in winter,
without maintenancè
Ditto in fummer with ditto,
A tailor in winter,
0 50
о
о
6
0 6
о
4
Ditto in fummer,
06
Price of a pair of fhoes,
о
4 6
Ditto of a pair of clogs,
2
6
with maintenance, o
O IO
I O
o
8
о
00
8
0 .6
9
0 2
2 6
Church.
3, or L. 3, 10s.
Only 15 years ago a man's wages were commonly L. 3, or L.
and the very higheſt did not exceed L. 6.
Of this fum 12 s. 6 d. was paid in money, and the other 4 s. in one
ſtone of wool. About the year 1730, a woman's wages were only s
groats and a woollen jerkin.
1
of Castletown.
71
Church, &c..-The church was built in 1777. The
rain penetrates through the walls, and part of the timber
already rotten. The manfe and offices are a heap of
ruins. They were built on the top of a hideous precipice,
about 100 feet of perpendicular height ‡, where there is
not a drop of water for the uſe of man or beaſt. The late
Mr Rutherford found a fmall fpring about the middle of
the rock, which he endeavoured to draw up at a great ex-
pence; the well was continually filling up, and is now en-
tirely waſhed away. It is propofed to build a manfe and
offices in a more agreeable fituation next fpring. The
prefent incumbent is accommodated in the mean time with
a houſe a little more than two miles from the church.
The living is L. 83:6:8. The value of the glebe can-
not be accurately aſcertained, as an exchange of land be-
tween the Duke of Buccleugh and the miniſter is juſt com-
pleted, which will be more convenient for both parties;
at preſent the whole of the land is in the moſt wretched
condition. A few of the inhabitants attend a Seceding
meeting houſe in the lower part of the parish, built about
30 years ago, and at prefent very much on the decline.
All the reſt belong to the Eſtabliſhed Church.
Old Chapels.-There have been no leſs than 5 chapels or
churches in the parish, befides the parish church. The Wheel
Church at the head of Liddal, Hermitage, on the river of
that name, Dinlabyre, Ettleton, and Chapel-know, on the
borders of Canonby. Ettleton and Hermitage are ftill
uſed
↑ Some years ago a woman going from the manſe at night, fell from
the top of the precipice into the river; her thigh bone only was broken.
he is now in perfect health.
72
Statistical Account
uſed as burying-grounds, and many grave-ftones appear in
the others. The Wheel Church has been of excellent
workmanship. The population of the country muſt cer-
tainly have been far greater in thoſe times. The Wheel
Church has been pretty large; many grave-ftones appear
in the church-yard; yet, when ſtanding on the ſpot at this
time, there are only 3 farm houfes in view, taking in a
circle of many miles.
Schools.-The ſchoolmafter's falary is L.8:6:8, be-
fides his perquifites arifing from his office of feffion-clerk,
precentor, marriages, collections, the poor's rates, and
ſchool fees. The ſchool houſe is in good repair; but the
ſchool is in very bad order. The number of ſcholars at
preſent is very ſmall. There are two other ſchools in the
pariſh, ſupported by private contributions.
Poor.-There is no place where the poor are better
provided for than in this parish. Poor's rates were eſta-
bliſhed in 1774. The heritors pay one half, and the te-
nants the other; it is levied quarterly; the money is paid
moſt punctually, and immediately applied. Thofe upon
the roll receive from 5 s. to L. 1:2:6 per quarter, ac-
cording to their neceffities. The prefent affeffment is
L. 56 per quarter. In the years 1782 and 1783 ſeveral
perfons received temporary fupply, and when the meal fell
lower in price it was withdrawn. The weekly collections
at the church, fince the poor's rates were eſtabliſhed, are
exceedingly ſmall. But from theſe, from fines paid by de-
linquents, and from marriages out of church, perfons not
on the poor's roll, and in diftreffed circumftances, are re-
lieved. No perfon is allowed to beg. A friendly fociety
was eſtabliſhed a few years ago; the members pay 5 s. at
entering
2
1
of Caftletown.
73
entering, and fo much per quarter; it promiſes to be very
ufeful.
Roads. It muft appear very ſtrange to any perfon ac-
quainted with the improvements, which other parts of
Scotland have received by means of roads, when it is men-
tioned, that, in this very extenfive country, not a yard of
road had ever been attempted to be formed, till within
theſe few years. The ſtatute labour has long been com-
muted. For about 16 miles along the Liddal, the road
lay rather in the river than upon its banks, the only path
being in what is called the Watergate, and the unhappy
traveller muſt croſs it at leaſt 24 times in that extent. The
fame thing ſtill takes place, with reſpect to the Hermitage,
as far as it runs. At length, by the exertions of two of
the heritors, fortunately for the country, poffeffed of public
fpirit, Mr OLIVER of Dinlabyre, and Mr ELLIOT of Whit-
haugh, a road was begun, and is now carrying along the
fide of the Liddal for ſeveral miles. Hawick being almoſt
the only market from which we receive meal, groceries,
fpirits, iron, &c. &c. the want of a road to it is attended
with much inconvenience and expence. But the funds,
arifing from the ftatute labour, are perhaps inadequate to
keep fo many miles of road in ſuch repair as the country
requires, and much leſs to make new ones. Unleſs fome
other method is adopted, the preſent road cannot be com-
pleted, and there is no reaſon to hope, that the road along
the Hermitage can be formed in the prefent generation.
There is much intercourſe with both Hawick and Lang-
holm, by weekly markets, fairs, c. and the difficulty of
travelling to thoſe places is inconceivable. Every article
muſt be carried on horfeback; and through theſe deep and
broken bogs and moffes we must crawl, to the great fatigue
of ourſelves, but the much greater injury of our horfes,
VOL. XVI.
without
K
74
Statistical Account
without the hope of a more comfortable mode of travelling.
As we have hitherto had no roads, it is not to be expected
that we ſhould have had bridges. The two rivers, Liddal
and Hermitage, divide the parish for about 26 miles; there
never was a bridge on either of them. From a confider-
able ſum of vacant ftipend, with the affiftance of the ordi-
nary fund, one was built over the river Hermitage in
1792; and laſt autumn another was completed over the
Liddal. Theſe, together with that part of the road alrea-
dy made, are of the greateſt ſervice to the country, and to
many travellers, who begin to pafs this way from Carliſle
to the northern markets, and to Berwick-fhire, the road
being much nearer than by Langholm and Mofs-Paul.
1
Fuel.-The fuel chiefly ufed is peat, of which there is
an inexhauſtible fund in every part of the country. There
is alfo coal in the lower part of the parish, wrought on the
eftate of Mr Oliver. It is fold at the pit at 3 d. per bushel,
or 6 d. per load. Carriers, who bring goods from Hawick,
commonly return loaded with coal.
New Castletown.-As there is not a village in the pariſh,
labourers and mechanics have long been very inconve-
niently fituated for houſes. For their accommodation, and
no doubt to encourage manufactures, the Duke of Buc-
cleugh, has for fome time paft, intended to build a new
town. At length a place was fixed on, and a plan made
out. It is fet down on the farm of Park, on the banks of
the Liddal, in a field of upwards of 100 acres of fine land,
and is named Caftletown. It is to confift of two principal
ftreets, bearing the names of the two rivers, Liddal and
Hermitage, with ſeveral croſs ſtreets at right angles. Her.
mitage-ſtreet is begun, and advancing rapidly. There is a
fquare, called Douglas Square, in the centre, for a market
place,
of Castletown.
75
place, confifting of about two acres of ground, round which
the buildings confiſt of two ſtories. Near each extremity
there is a ſmaller fquare. The ſtreet is 54 feet wide; in
the principal ſquare it is 100 feet. It was begun in March
laft; and at preſent there are 23 houſes either inhabited,
or nearly finiſhed. Each houſe coſts from L. 35 to L. 40
Sterling. They hold of the Duke, pay a fmall fum by
way of feu-duty, and have each a good garden. Every
feuer has graſs for a cow on the hill, for which they pay
L. 1. For each houſe they have two acres of holm land,
for 14 years, for which they pay a certain fum. A fitu-
ation more favourable for carrying on manufactures is
fcarcely to be found. Its local advantages are very great.
Within 100 yards of peat, and only about 3 miles from coal,
it has water at command to drive machinery of any extent.
Wool, the ftaple commodity of the country, grows on the
fide of every hill. There is an excellent road lately made
by Canonby to Carliſle, the Solway frith, &c. Poffeffed of
theſe advantages, it folicits fome perſon of enterprize and
induſtry to improve them. When we confider what has
been done in Galashiels, &c. and in fituations far lefs fa-
vourable, it is hoped the time is not far diftant, when ſuch
advantages as theſe will attract the attention of the manu-
facturers either of flax, wool, or cotton; and inftead of
fending the wool, the raw material, to Leeds, Huddersfield,
c. by a long and expenfive land carriage, it will be ma-
nufactured here where it grows, enrich the country by en-
couraging induſtry, adding to population, and by giving
bread and employment to hundreds of all ages.
NATURAL HISTORY.
Reptiles, Fish, and Quadrupeds.-The reptiles produced
in the parish are, toads, lizards, and adders. The laft is
not numerous.--The fish are, trouts, lampreys, eels, fkelly,
i
or
76
Statiſtical Account
or chubb, falmon, grilfe, &c. The falmon were very plen-
tiful in former years, but fince the bay or mound was built
at Netherby, few get up at any time, and none but in the
time of a great flood. The wild quadrupeds are foxes,
hares, wild cats, pole cats, weazels, the white weazel, often.
ſeen in winter, hedge hogs and Norway rats. Tradition
affirms, that the earth of Liddiſdale has a peculiar quality
of banishing the common rat from Teviotdale. It is cer-
tain, that only a few years ago, carriers on their return to
that country loaded their horſes with it, and carried it away
for that purpoſe. But it is affirmed, with more probabi-
lity, that it is only fince the Norway rat was introduced,
that the common rat has been extirpated.
Birds.-Black-cocks, groufe, partridges, grey plovers,
wild ducks, ſnipes, wood-pigeons, buzzards, ſtannels, owls,
crows, ravens, herons, jackdaws, magpies, thruſhes, black-
birds, ftarlings, linnets, and gold-finches, frequent the woods.
The bittern was formerly numerous, but is now feldom to
be ſeen. The birds of paffage, that vifit us in the ſpring,
or beginning of ſummer, are, the King's-fiſher, water crow,
white and yellow feed birds, the black and fand martins,
the ſwallow, cuckoo, rail, curlew, green plover, fand lark,
ftone chatterers, with different fpecies of gulls and ſhiel-
drakes. Teal and widgeons are ſeen in fpring when the
waters are ſwelled with rain. The birds that vifit us in
autumn are, the fieldfare and the wood-cock. Eagles, or
earns, are frequently ſeen, but have no place of refidence
here *.
Minerals.
* A well authenticated inſtance of the amazing ſtrength of this bird oc-
curred a few years ago upon the farm of Roughlee in this parish. One morn-
ing, when the ſhepherd was going round his flock, he faw an eagle coming
over the Hermitage-hill immediately above him, with fomething bulky in his
talons.
:
of Caftletown.
77
Minerals.-There is great plenty of lime-ftone in the
pariſh, of different qualities. A draw kiln was erected laſt
year on the Hermitage, and burns a confiderable quantity.
Several pits of marl are found on the farms of Flight, Kerf-
hope, and Tweeden, to appearance of excellent quality;
but this, as well as other treaſures, are locked up from ufe
by the want of roads. Befides, the coal mentioned at
Lawſtown, ſome ſmall crop feams appear on the Tweeden,
c. From the ftrata of metals, it is apprehended, there is
coal in feveral places, but no trials to any great extent
have been made. Free-ftone quarries of excellent ftone
are every where found, excepting at the head of the Her-
mitage, where there is nothing but blue whin-ftone.
Medicinal Springs.-There are feveral ſprings in this pa-
riſh, ſtrongly impregnated with fulphur. There is one at
the head of it, in that part called the Dead Water, unfor-
tunately fituated in the middle of that vaft moraſs where
the Liddal and the Tyne take their rife. In wet ſeaſons
it is weakened by the furrounding water. It is much fre-
quented by perfons afflicted with cutaneous and fcrophulous.
complaints, who receive great benefit from it. They drink
the water, and uſe it as a warm bath. But the patients
are
At
talons. Struck with the novelty of the fight, he kept his eye upon the
bird, and faw him fit down at a little diſtance. He ran to the fpot, when
the eagle had difengaged from his talons a fine lamb, and was preparing
to tear him in pieces, which the man refcued, and carried home.
that inftant, a medical gentleman was visiting a patient in the shepherd's
family. He examined the lamb, found it a fine male, the ſkin of the
fhoulder torn, but the bone had prevented the talons from injuring the
On
vital parts; he fewed up the wound, and it recovered and did well.
enquiry it was found, that the hepherd on Peel, the fame morning, faw
an eagle feize a lamb of his flock, and fly off with it, in the line of di-
rection to the place where the lamb was found. The distance of the one
place from the other is not less than five miles JOHN ELLIOT, of Red.
heugh, Efq; furnished the writer with this anecdote.
78
Statiſtical Account
are expofed to danger and incovenience from the want of
proper accommodation. The wretched hovels in the
neighbourhood being continually damp and wet. On the
farm of Dinlabyre, another ſpring of the fame kind is
found; the collection of water is much greater, but at pre-
fent almoſt loft in the bog in which it is placed. A third
is on the farm of Shortbuttrees, of excellent quality; all
theſe might be highly beneficial, if the ground were pro-
perly drained and attended to. A very ftrong mineral fpring
is found at Lawſtown; but as its water has not been anali-
zed, it is uncertain to what claſs it belongs.
Petrifying Water.-There are ſeveral ſprings of this
kind. One is found on the Tweeden, exceedingly power-
ful, and containing a great quantity of water, where large
maffes of petrified matter appear on every fide converted
into ſolid ſtone. The progrefs of the petrifaction is diſtinct
and beautiful. The fog, which grows on the edge of the
fpring, and is fprinkled with the water, is about eight
inches high; the lower part is converted into folid ftone;
the middle appears as if half frozen, and the top is green
and flouriſhing. The petrified matter, when burnt, is re-
folved into very fine lime. The fpring itſelf, when led
over the fields in little rills, fertilizes them exceedingly.
Cafcades.-There are feveral beautiful water-falls on the
river Tweeden, the little ftreams of Dinlabyre, Har-
den, and Sundhope. But on the river Blackburn, fuch
ſcenes are ſeen in all their beauty and variety. Some-
times the river fhoots over a perpendicular rock, in one
unbroken ſheet of water, forming a beautiful cafcade; at
other times it is darted over tremendous precipices, and
rages furioufly among the huge maffes of the rock below.
In this wild and romantic vale, nature appears in various
3
forms,
of Caftletown.
79
:
forms, now beantiful, then awful, fometimes fublime, and
frequently terrible. The author of this account meaſured
the principal falls. One is 27 feet perpendicular in height,
another 311; the breadth of the rock over which it falls,
36; a third is 37 in height, and 20 feet wide.
Natural Bridge of Stone.-One of the greateſt curiofities
to be ſeen in this country, or perhaps in Scotland, is a na-
tural bridge of ſtone over the fame river. It ſtretches
acroſs the ſtream, and joins the hills on each fide. It is
55 feet long, 10 feet wide, and the thickneſs of the arch is
2 feet 4 inches of folid ftone. It is not compoſed of one
entire rock, but has the appearance of many ſtones about a
foot and a half fquare, fet neatly together. The bridge
flopes a little downwards, and the water rufhes under the
arch, through an opening of 31 feet.
:
Woods.-The natural woods confift of oak, afh, birch,
and alder. Confiderable plantations have been made of
Scots fir, fpruce, larix, oak, aſh, beech and plane. They
are all in a thriving condition. There is at prefent grow-
ing on the river Blackburn, an old aſh tree, the trunk of
which meaſures 18 feet in circumference, one branch of it
9 feet, and another 8. The trunk is hollow within; five
perfons of ordinary fize may eafily fit in it at the ſame
time. Laſt year the river Liddal, in the time of a high
flood, threw up the trunk of an oak tree, oppofite to Hag-
gihaugh, the ſeat of Colonel Elliot of Larifton. Not only
the bark, but great part of the wood, feems wafted by age ;
notwithſtanding which this venerable trunk, as it now lies,
meaſures 26 feet in length, and 10 feet in circumference,
and is perfectly ftraight. There is fcarcely a tree within
view of the place where it lies, excepting a few Scotch firs.
Eminent
80
Statistical Account
Eminent Men.-This parish gave birth to the celebrated
Dr ARMSTRONG, whofe father and brother were minifters
of it.
Antiquities.-There are feveral monuments of great an-
tiquity in the parish, but their origin and their hiſtory are
involved in much obfcurity. Even tradition itſelf ſays
little concerning them. There are alfo feveral old gold
coins in the poffeffion of Mr Elliot of Red-hengh*. Though
this parish comprehended a great part of the middle march
between the two kingdoms, yet excepting a few detached
facts, there is nothing of confequence preferved or related
by hiftorians. As it lies directly along the English Border,
it muſt have been, for a long period, the ſcene of action, of
fierce contentions, barbarous feuds, and marauding expedi-
tions, which took place between the two nations, when,
before the union, and before law and civilization took
place, inroads were conftantly made by both parties upon
each other, and the ſtronger arm carried away every thing
both from the houſe and from the field. Theſe exploits
have been recorded in the poetry of the times, which are
ftill fung by the aged, and liftened to with eagerness by
the young. They contain an account of the heroic at-
chievements of thofe days, that is to fay, of the inroads.
made and repelled by the marauders on each fide of the
Border +.
Cafties.
They were found on the farm of Prieft-heugh, in the neighbourhood
of this parish. Some years ago a box was found in the fide mofs, con-
taining about 120 filver coins, about the value of 3 d. each, variouſly in-
fcribed. Some of them were clipped, or cut in the edges, and not coined.
Some copper or brafs veffels, of antique forms, were found in a mofs on
Shortbuttrees, and fent to the Duke of Buccleugh.
The following extracts from the ancient records of the Courts of
Juftice
of Castletown.
81
Caftles.-Hermitage Caftle ftands upon the bank of the
river of that name. It has been a very ftrong building,
near 100 feet ſquare, defended by a ftrong rampart and
ditch . The walls are almoſt entire. The inner part is
a
Juftice exhibit a fpecimen of the tranſactions of thofe times. Several
perfons mentioned in it are the heroes in the old fongs and ballads :
"At the Treeves, or Jufticiary meeting of the Lords Wardens, to
hear all complaints, 1581.-Weft Marches againſt Liddiſdale, Sir Simon
Muſgrave, Knight, with Thorn of the Todhill and his neighbours, com-
plain upon Robin Elliot of the Park, Sim Elliot, Clemie Crofier,
Gawens Jock, and their complices, for 60 kine and oxen, a horſe, and
the taking of Thom Routledge priſoner."
"June 1582.-Matthew Taylor, and the poor widow of Martin
Taylor, complain upon Old Laird of Whithaugh, Young Laird of Whit-
haugh, Sims Thom, and Jock of Copfhawe for 140 kie and oxen, 100
ſheep, 20 gaits, and all their inſight, L. 200 Sterling."
“October 1582.-Sir Simon Muſgrave, deputy of Bewcaſtle and te-
nants againſt Walter Scot, Laird of Buckleith, and his complices, for 200
kine and oxen, 300 gates and ſheep."
“November 1582.-Sir Simon Mufgrave complains on the Laird of
Mangerton, Lairds Jock, Sims Thom, and their complices, for burning of
his barns, wheat, rye, oats, big, and peas, worth L. 1000 Sterling.”
"Weft of England againſt Liddiſdale, L. 3230.”
"Liddifdale againſt the Weſt Marches, L. 8ooo.”
*Hiftory of Cumberland.
It is faid to have been built by a Lord SoULES, then Warden of the
Border; but it does not appear, that there is any accurate account of its age.
Smollet mentions that Alexander II. built a caftle in Liddiſdale, which
gave fuch offence to Henry III. of England, that he made war upon the
king of Scotland, 1240. This, in all probability, was the caftle of Her-
mitage. Among the remarkable places in the county of Liddifdale,
Hector Boece mentions "the Caftle of Hermitage, now demoliſhed."
A great part of the ancient caſtle appears to have been thrown down, and
the ancient part of the architecture is eaſily diſtinguiſhed from the more
modern. Biſhop Elphinston mentions, that Sir William Douglas, Earl
VOL. XVI.
L
of
82
Statistical Account
a heap of ruins. Within a few yards of the caftle are
the remains of the ancient chapel of Hermitage +, now
in ruins, in the middle of the burying ground fill in ufe.
The font is in the wall of the church-yard. The caftle of
Clintwood, on the farm of Flight, appears to have been a
very ftrong building; the foundation, and a little part of
ture.
the
furni.
of Liddiſdale, beat the Engliſh out of all Teviotdale, and took the caftle
of Hermitage in the year 1340. In this cattle Sir Alexander Rámfay of
Dalhousie was ſtarved to death by the fame Sir W. Douglas; who, fired
with jealouſy becauſe Sir Alexander was made Sheriff of Teviotdale,
ſurpriſed him in the church of Hawick when holding an affembly, carried
lim to the cattle, and threw him into a dungeon with his horfe
This happened in 1342. Some years ago, a mafon employed in
building a dike in the neighbourhood, had the curiofity to penetrate into
a vault in the caſt end of the caftle. Having made an opening, he de-
fccnded by a ladder; and in a vault, about 8 feet fquare, he found leve-
ral human bones, with a faddle, a bridle, and fword; he brought out the
bridle and fword. The Bit was of an uncommon fize; the curb of it is
in the pollefion of Walter Scott, Eiq: Advocate. In the dungeon he
found a great quantity of the hufks of oats. Report fays, the granary of
the cattle was immediately above this vault, and that Sir Alexander fub-
fifted for fome time on what fell down into the vault. From theſe cif-
cumſtances it is highly probable, that the bones were thefe of that gen-
tleman, and that this was the vault into which he was thrown, and ſtarved
to death. This caftle was alio vifited by the ill-fated Queen Mary, in the
year 1561, on occafion of Bothwell's being wounded by John Elliot in
She came from, and returned to Jedburgh in the fame day, not
only a long journey, but over mountains, and through marfies almoſt im-
paffable. In our of thoſe marfies, a few miles from the cattle, her horſe
ftuck in the mols, which is still called the Queen's Mire.
Park
C
* Mickenzie's Lives.
†The chapel, caftle, and river derive their name from the cell of a
hermit, who had retired thither. He could not have chofen a more foli-
tary fpot, nor one more fit for mortification or for contemplation. They
give title to the dideft fon of the family of Deloraine, Lord Henry Scat,
third fon of James Duke of Monmouth, by Anne Duchefs of Buccleugh
was created Earl of Deloraine, Vifcount Hermitage, 1756 *.
*Douglas's Peerage.
1
1
Engraved for Sir John Sinclair's Statistical account of SCOTLAND Vol. XVI.P.83.
11A6
HIT
AA
O
С
Road
CAMP
on the TOP of CORBY HILL
100
yards Diameter.
in the PARISH of
CASTLETOWN.
CROSS AT MILANHOLM
in Memory of
Scale 33 Lte 1 Inch.
ARMSTRONG CF MANGERT ON
3 fict 4inches high, base 1 foot-8 inches.
Gavin Scolp!
↑
of Caftletown.
83
!
!
the wall, are ftill to be feen.
This caftle, from which the
pariſh derives its name, is fituated on the upper part of the
glebe, and in former times muft have been impregnable on
the E. and N. On the E. it is defended by a very deep
ravine; on the N. by the Liddal, and a precipice of more.
than 100 feet in height; and on the W. and S. by two
ramparts of great firength, and a foffe of great depth. The
only peel houſe that remains entire is Hudhouſe; the
vault is immenſely ſtrong, and has had double doors, bolted
on the infide *.
Camps. The principal camp is on the top of Carby Hill.
This hill is detached from all others, and commands a view
of the whole country, and of all that part of Cumberland, by
Beefe-Castle, &c. The camp is entirely circular, and occu-
pies the whole fummit of the hill; it is fortified by a very
ftrong wall of ftones, and a road plainly appears to have
been made up to it, winding round a part of the hill, and
entering it on the fouth. It is about 100 feet diameter.
In the centre a fmall ſpace is inclofed with a ſtrong wall,
and round it are 8 circles of different fizes +, all furrounded
by a ſtone wall, and all of them having had a door or open-
ing to the eaſt. On the fummit of the Side hill, and nearly
oppofite to Carby, on the north fide of the Liddal, there is
another strong encampment, nearly of a fquare form. It
300 feet in diameter. The wall or rampart is entirely
of earth, and is about 18 feet high. This camp has none
is
of
There were many fquare towers formerly in this country, the place
of refidence of the principal families, and all of them places of strength.
They were chiefly on the banks of the river Liddal, vix. Peel, Hudf-
houle, Prickinghaugh, Whithaugh, Hillhoufe, Riccarton, Mangerton,
Puddingburn, &c. Of thefe nothing remain but the foundations.
See the copperplate.
de la de Made at det ma
84
Statiſtical Account
of the interior circles of the former.
On the farm of
Flight, and near to the caftle of Clintwood, there are two
camps at a little diſtance from each other; the one round,
and fortified with a ſtone wall * about 100 feet diameter;
and the other ſquare, about 168 feet in length, with two
ramparts of earth †.
Picts Works.-There are a great many round-abouts in
the parish, commonly called Picts Works. They are all
circular, and ſtrongly fortified by a wall, compofed of large
ftones. They are frequently found, the one at a little di-
ftance from, and oppofite to the other. There are two
nigh Heeds-houſe, two on the farm of Shaws, one on Toft-
holm, one on Foulfhiels, one on Cocklaw, one on Black-
burn, and one on Shortbuttrees ‡. On the farm of Mill-
burn there is a ſmall circle encloſed by 9 ftones, which feems
to have been a Druidical temple. Tradition fays Lord
Soules was burnt there. The hill is called Nine-Stone Ridge.
Cairns.-There are many cairns in different places.
The moſt remarkable of thefe is on the farm of Whifgills.
The
*This year (1793) the wall was carried away to build a ftone dike,
and at a conſiderable depth, among fome large ftones, there was found
the head of fome weapon, or inftrument of fine brafs, 4 inches long;
-the one end is fitted to receive a ſhaft or handle, the other is widened, and
is formed and ſharpened like the edge of a hatchet, The other article
found has the appearance of a ſmall fword of mixed metal, about three
feet long, but was broken by the workman before the writer hereof could
get them into his poffeffion.
A learned gentleman informs me, that a Roman legion wintered in
Liddifdale, cut down wood, and drained marſhes.
The ftones of this laft were lately removed; and on the ſouth fide
there was found a place 10 feet wide, and 20 feet long, paved with flat
flones, and incloſed by others on each fide, fet on edge, within which
there feemed to be aſhes and burnt fticks.
|| On the farm of Cleugh-head one was removed, and an urn found full
of
1
of Caftletown.
85
The quantity of ftones is immenfe, and they are moſtly of
a very large fize. Near thefe, there is a large ſtone ſet on
end, about 5 feet high, called the Standing Stone. This
cairn is in the middle of an extenfive and deep mofs. It
can be approached on horfe-back only on one fide, and that
with much difficulty. There is not a ſtone to be ſeen near
it. Upon the march between the parishes of Caſtletown
and Canonby, and upon very high ground near to Tinnis-hill,
there is a cairn of great extent, and confifting of free-ftones
of great fize.
fize. It is 86 yards long; it is not poffible to ap-
proach it on horſe-back. The ſtones are chiefly of a ſquare
form, of immenfe weight, and what is very remarkable,
there is not a ftone to be ſeen, nor a place where ſtones could
be found, within a great diſtance of the place. At the
north end of it, there are feveral large ftones ſet on their
edges, forming a fquare, and covered over by one ſtone.
Near to the fouth end there is one ſtanding perpendicular,
evidently fo placed by the hand of man, 7 feet above the
mofs, and 13 feet in circumference. This was anciently
called the ſtanding ſtone, and was confidered the north boun-
dary of Canonby, or the debateable land *. On examining
the ground near it, I found five other ftones, nearly of an
equal fize with the former, all inclining to, or lying on the
ground, forming a circle, the diameter of which is 45 yards.
How theſe ftones were collected, for what purpoſe, or what
the circle has been, which is formed by ſtones of fuch im-
menſe weight and fize, I leave to others to determine.
3
Cross.
of aſhes, which foon fell in pieces. In this cairn were diſcovered a great
number of ſtones, formerly uſed for knocking bear, or making barley. Some
among them was a ſtone croſs, about 4 feet long. Some other cairns
have been opened, and athes found inclofed by 4 ftones fet in a fquare
form.
* Vid. Hiftory of Cumberland.
86
Statistical Account
Crofs.-At Milnholm there is a croſs of one ftone, 8 feet
4 inches high, fet in a baſe I foot 8 inches*. This is a
piece of great antiquity. A fword 4 feet long is cut out
on the S. fide of the croſs, and immediately above ſeveral
letters, as will appear from the repreſentation of it in the
plate.
Difadvantages.-The diſadvantages this country labours
under, from the want of roads, are very great. Improve-
ments to any confiderable extent can never be carried on
while theſe are wanting, and the means of improvement
which the country itſelf poffeffes are locked up from uſe.
The cottages, and moſt of the farm-houſes, are in very bad
order. Another diſadvantage arifes from the frofts in
ſpring, and the early part of harveſt, to which the country
is fometimes expofed, and which prove chiefly hurtful to
the potatoes and peaſe.
Character. The people in general enjoy, in a reafon-
able degree, the comforts of fociety, and are contented with
their fituation. They are by no means fond of a military
life.
* The tradition concerning it is this :-One of the governors of Her-
mitage Caſtle, fome fay Lord Soules, others Lord Douglas, having en-
tertained a paffion for a young woman in the lower part of the pariſh,
went to her houſe, and was met by her father, who, wishing to conceal his
daughter, was inftantly killed by the Governor. He was foon purſued
by the people, and, in extreme danger, took refuge with Armſtrong of
Mangerton, who had influence enough to prevail on the people to deſiſt
from the purſuit, and by this means faved his life. Seemingly with a
view to make a return for this favour, but fecretly jealous of the power
and influence of Armſtrong, he invited him to Hermitage Caſtle, where
he was bafely murdered. He himself, in his turn, was killed by Jock of
the Side, of famous memory, and brother to Armstrong. The cross was
erected in memory of this tranfaction, near to Ettleton church-yard,
where he was buried, and almoft oppofite to Mangerton.
of Castletown.
87
life. The majority are of the middle fize, but many of
them confiderably above, and ſeveral under it. Notwith-
ſtanding the want of roads, and their great diſtance from
church, (many of them being 8, and even 10 miles diftant),
they are remarkable for their general and conſtant attend-
ance on religious ordinances, and exemplary in their con-
duct during the time of divine fervice. They make an
excellent appearance on ſuch, and on all other public oc-
cafions; they are clean and well dreffed, in coloured veſts,
and cloth of English manufacture. They are diftinguiſhed
by their hofpitality and humanity, ever willing to contri-
bute to the relief of thofe in diſtreſs *. Few law-fuits have
occurred; no puniſhments have been inflicted; and few or
no traces of the border or barbarous cuſtoms are now to be
feen. It is impoffible to conclude this article without re-
marking the ſtriking contraft between the former and the
prefent fituation of the country. The inhabitants feel the
happy change, and are fenfible of the fuperior bleffings
they enjoy. It was formerly the fcene of fierce conten-
tion, of barbarous feuds, of plunder, and of defolation,
when there was neither fecurity of property nor of life. At
preſent we can only trace the foundations of the ancient
cattles, the ſtrong holds of their fierce poffeffors. Their uſe-
lefs walls are thrown down, and converted into ſheep folds,
and their ſwords have become ruſted in their ſcabbards, or
have been almoft literally beaten into plough-fhares.
"Every one fits in peace under his own vine, and his own
fig tree, and there is none to make him afraid."
NUM-
*An inftance of this very lately occurred:On a day fet apart by
the Synod, for thanksgiving for the favourable harveft, it was fuggefted
from the pulpit, to collect a fum for affifting in procuring warm clothing
to our brave countrymen in Flanders. Next Sabbath they were forward,
from the higheſt to the loweſt, to contribute to this humane purpoſe,
and enabled their minifter to tranfmit a confiderable donation to the
Lord Provoft of Edinburgh.
88
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER IV.
PARISH OF FORGAN,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF FIFE, PRESBYTERY OF ST
ANDREW'S.)
By the Rev. Mr JAMES BURN, Minifter.
Origin of the Name.
ORGAN, alias Sr PHILLANS, is the name of the
FORG
parish. On the communion cups, made in the year
1652, it is fpelled Forgon. The derivation of the name is
uncertain. From fome old charters it would feem to fig-
nify Fore Ground. Indeed, a good part of it has a gentle
deſcent towards the fouth. The name, however, is not
uncommon. In Angus-fhire, there is a pariſh named Long-
Forgan; in the county of Perth, there is another called
Forgan-Denny. The other name, St Phillans, ſeems to
have been derived from a Popish faint of that name, of
fome renown in the days of antiquity.
mile weft from the manfe is the ſeat of
Efq; which bears the name of St Fort.
About an English
ROBERT STEWArt,
This was probably
in ancient times the dwelling of the faint. It ſtands upon
of Forgan.
89
a rifing ground, and might perhaps be then confidered as
a place of ſtrength. There is alſo towards the eaſt of St
Fort, the Upper and Nether Friartown, which, no doubt,
were formerly inhabited by Popiſh friars.
Extent, Soil and Climate.-This pariſh is about 4 Engliſh
miles in length, but not above 2 in breadth. A part of it
is a ftrath from E. to W. the ground rifing gently on each
fide. Much of it is of a fouthern expofure. Another part
of it lies bending towards the N. on the fide of the river
Tay. The foil is for the moſt part light, but is rendered
fertile by the uſe of lime. Some of it is black; other parts
of a mixed nature. There is little clay foil in the pariſh.
The climate is healthy; few epidemic diftempers prevail
much here, except the fever, which now and then proves
fatal to many. Some are now alive betwixt 80 and 90
years of age. One is faid to be above 90. He lives on
the ground of St Fort *.
River, Ferries, Coaft, Harbours, Fish, &c.-The river
Tay runs along the northern fide of the parish. On the
oppofite fide of the river, which is about 2 miles in breadth,
ftands the populous and flourishing town of Dundee.
There are two ferries on this fide of the river, Woodhaven
VOL. XVI.
M
and
* Colonel Lindsay, brother to Mr Lindiay, who was then proprietor of
that eſtate, one day having met this old man, afked him, how many Lairds
of St Fort he had ſeen ? he anſwered, he had feen fir, and hoped he might
live to ſee the ſeventh. What, faid the Colonel, do you wiſh to ſee a
change of the Laird? I fuppofe, faid the old man, you will have no objec-
tion againſt the coming home of the young Laird. The proprietor was at
that time lately married. The Colonel was fo much pleafed with the good
humour of the old man, that he gave him half a crown, which made
him very happy, as it is more than probable he had feldom before been
poffeffed of fo large a fum at one time. This man has lived to fee another,
who is the ſeventh proprietor of the eſtate of St Fort.
:
90
Statistical Account
X
and Newport, both of which are in this parish.
number of boats employed, fome of a larger,
There is a
others of a
leffer fize, fome of which, when the weather permits, crofs
at all tides. The tide is about half an hour later here than
at Leith. Theſe ferries were much more frequented before
the bridge was built over the Tay at Perth, than they have
been fince. Some of the ferrymen are fober and diſcreet;
others of them borrow the language and behaviour of thoſe
who frequent the paffage, eſpecially of fuch whom they
look on as their fuperiors in rank and ftation. How much
is it to be regretted, that from fo many of theſe they often
learn to be rude and profane. The coaft extends along
the north fide of the parish. It is for the moſt part rocky.
The harbours at Woodhaven and Newport are very incon-
fiderable, fit only for their boats, and a few floops, which
are fometimes employed in importing coals, and exporting
corn. On the banks of the river there are ſeveral ſalmon
filhings*, fome of which have of late increaſed in value.
They are for the moſt part carried on by means of what is
called a Yair. But by feme, the long net with a boat is
made uſe of. The falmon are fometimes difpofed of at the
rate of 4 d. and even 6 d. per lb. to the people of Perth,
who export them to London, and fell them at high prices.
By others they are fent to the neighbouring towns
of Dundee and Cupar in Fife, diftant about 6 computed
miles.
Cultivation.
* A process before the Court of Seffion was lately commenced reſpecting
one of thefe, and moft keenly agitated on both fides. Several hundred
pounds were expended by each of the contending parties, one of whom,
the Rev. Dr Dalgleish of Scotfcraig, not only prevailed, but obtained his
expences.
of Forgan.
gi
Cultivation.-The improvement of the ground has, of
late years, made confiderable progrefs, chiefly from the ufe
of lime, which, on our light and dry foil, has the moſt hap-
py effects. The lime is driven in carts from the diſtance of
8 or 10 computed miles; fome of the tenants bring it from
Northumberland by fea. Their crops are by it enriched
when the ſeaſon is not too dry. Some lands that are marſhy
have of late been greatly meliorated by draining. ROBERT
STEWART, Efq; of St Fort, who is very active and indu
ſtrious, befides other improvements which he has made,
has drained a piece of ground, which, during the winter,
was almoft covered with water. It was fit for nothing but.
feeding a few young cattle in fummer; and, though con-
fifting of 52 acres, was fometimes let for about L. 5 or
L. 6. It is more than probable, that in a few years it will
fet for upwards of L. 50 Sterling. What a bleffing is it to
the country, when proprietors of land, inftead of debauch-
ing their neighbours by examples of intemperance, fet them
patterns of activity and honefl induſtry! How is the bleff-
ing enhanced, when, by their example, the people under
them are led to fear God, and to reverence his fanctuary!
The neglect of this feldom fails to ruin the morals of the
people, and to deſtroy their industry.
Produce. The farmers raife a pretty large quantity of
wheat, although it is reckoned to fcourge the ground; but
they are tempted to prefer this crop by the high prices,
which are generally from L. 1 to L. 1, 5 s. per boll. It is
meaſured with the fmall firlot, which is a great deal leſs
than that uſed for oats and barley. They commonly have
good crops of barley, and generally get a good price, from
15 s. to 18 s. Sterling per boll. They have alfo tolerable.
crops of oats and peaſe. The oats fell at from 12 s. to 14 S.
per
92
Statistical Account
per boll. Peaſe are by no means a lucrative crop, but they
ferve to meliorate the ground when the crop is rank, and
the ſtraw is excellent fodder for horfes. It is chiefly on
thefe accounts that the farmers continue to fow them, for
the price of peafe is generally low, and their returns very
inconfiderable. The foil is very much adapted to the cul-
ture of turnips; of theſe they raiſe good crops, with which,
during the winter, they feed their cows and cattle, ſome of
which they fatten for ſlaughter, and for which they fome-
times draw good prices. They have alfo good crops of
potatoes, from the light and dry foil. Thefe yield a falu-
tary ſupport to the poor people, when they do not uſe them
to excefs. To this, however, they are ftrongly tempted,
when the meal is high priced. On fuch occafions they feed
upon them thrice a day, by which their health is fometimes
hurt. With the refuſe, and the ſmaller potatoes, they com-
monly feed ſwine, which they falt up for winter provifion.
This practice is become fo common of late, that the price
of a young pig of a few weeks old is generally 7 s.
Rents. Their rents are from L. 100 to L. 400 per an-
num, and upwards. The tenants are all in eafy circum-
ſtances, and fome of them are opulent. All of them are
fober, active, and induftrious. Thofe of them that have
lately got new tacks pay double, and fome almoft triple
their old rents. Several of the tenants have fubfet fome
acres of their ground, lying at a diſtance from the farm
houfes. They who enjoy theſe fmall poffeffions are called
Pendiclers. Some of them have 10 or 12 acres, fome more,
fome lefs.
The valued rent of the parish in Scotch money
is,
The real rent, in Sterling, is fuppoſed to be
about,
L. 5145 5
L. 2873 0
Black
of Forgan.
93
Black Cattle.-Of theſe a confiderable number is an-
nually reared. Till of late years, they were employed
in drawing the plough, but they are now ſeldom or never
ufed. Inſtead of two horfes and two oxen in the plough,
which required a man fervant and a boy to drive them, two
horſes only are uſed, and one man manages both them and
the plough at the fame time. This is a confiderable ſaving
to the farmer, now when the wages are ſo high; and as the
horſe plough moves quicker, more ground is ploughed in
the fame time. It is the new plough that is uſed in this
part of the country.
rish
Sheep.-Several flocks of theſe were formerly in the pa-
h; now there is but one. The tenants found the fheep
very hurtful to their fown grafs, which, in the winter, they
tore up by the roots. Their Sheep Walks are now, by
means of lime, turned into good corn-fields, which they find
to be more profitable. They may, however, at length be
compelled to return to their former practice of feeding
flocks of ſheep, to meliorate thofe fields which are at too
great a diſtance for driving dung to them; when the ſtrength
of the lime is ſpent, and they become unfit for producing
crops of corn, the tedding of the fheep may be found necef-
fary to recruit theſe fields.
Minerals.-There is abundance of rock, fome of a more
hard, fome of a fofter nature. The firſt is very proper for
common buildings, the latter for the making of roads; to
improve which there is ſuch an uncommon ſpirit now hap-
pily prevailing in this part of the nation. There is alſo
much channel, well adapted to the fame purpoſe. But there
is no free ſtone; this is brought from the other fide of the
Tay in boats, from a noted quarry in Angus-fhire, com-
monly known by the name of Millfield Quarry.
درم
3
Fuel
94
Statistical Account
}
Fuel.-There were formerly fome peats dug out of the
moffes in the pariſh; but the proprietors have prohibited this
practice for many years paft. There are fome muirs that
abound with whins; from thefe the poor people get a part
of their fuel. Coals are both ſcarce and high priced. The
land coal is driven from the diſtance of 8 or 10 computed
miles. A quantity fuch as two horfes can conveniently
draw, cofts about 7 s. 6 d.; an equal quantity, or rather
larger, but of a much better quality, brought from Alloa
and other places by fea, will coft 12 s. weighing about 112
tone weight. This makes the fuel coftly to the poor,
many of whom, during the cold of winter, aggravated to
them by their meagre diet, are not a little injured by the
want of it. But amidst all their ftraits, it is truly pleaſant
to fee them poffeffing that cheerfulneſs and contentment
which Chriſtianity is fo much fitted to inſpire.
Population.—The population is on the increaſe. Several
feus have been made on the banks of the river Tay, and
ſeveral new buildings have been of late erected on them.
The number of examinable perfons in the parish at preſent
(1793) is about
Allowing the uſual proportion of 4 for children,
44
The total number of fouls may be ftated at
The return to Dr Webfter, in 1755, was only
700
175
875
751
The increaſe fince that period is therefore not lefs than 124
A
of Forgan.
95
A Lift of MARRIAGES, BAPTISMS, and BURIALS, for 10
years, extracted from the Parish Records of Forgan.
Marriages.
Baptifms.
Burials.
1780,
5
25
15
1781,
9
14
8
1782,
7
1
19
29
1783,
7
19
13
1784,
12
25
21
1785,
15
24
17
1786,
5
16
35
1787,
16
9
17
8
1788,
5
23
1789,
ΙΟ
21
ΙΟ
Total,
84
202
173
Prolific Births.-In the fpace of 4 or 5 years, twins have
been born at four ſeveral births. Since I came to the pa-
riſh, one of the boatmen's wives was at one birth delivered
of three fine children. They all lived till they were wean-
ed, and two of them arrived at manhood.
CONDITIONS AND PROFESSIONS.
No. of Heritors, refident, 7 No. of tailors,
Ditto non-refident, 4
fhoe-makers,
3
Miniſter,
I
wrights,
3
fchool-mafter,
I
maſons,
4
tenants,
9
weavers,
14
pendiclers, or fub-
poor on the roll, 6
tenants,
16
Villages, Occupations of Women, &c.-There are ſeveral
villages in the parish. The female inhabitants are gene-
rally
!
96
Statiſtical Account
rally employed in ſpinning coarſe yarn, of which a kind of
cloth is made that gets the name of Ofnaburgh. Of this
the merchants in Dundee export large quantities; but in
this, as in moſt other manufactures, there is a very great
ſtagnation fince the commencement of the preſent war.
They got 1 s. 6 d. for ſpinning a fpindle of this yarn; but
fince the war it has been fo low as I s. and fometimes 10 d.
While the encouragement for fpinning was high, it was
fometimes difficult for the tenants, and others, to get maid
fervants. But though their gain was confiderable, yet the
conftant fitting at the wheel, and the immoderate wafte of
faliva, was by no means favourable to their health. Many
of theſe people are employed in cutting down the corns in
harveft. During this feaſon they are uncommonly chear-
ful and healthy; but as this exercife in the field is an ex-
treme entirely oppofite to the fedentary life they gene-
rally lead through the reſt of the year, diſagreeable effects
are fometimes felt after the harveft; however, the dan-
ger of this is not a little abated by their preſent man-
ner of living during this feaſon, which is upon oat bread
and ale, which, when freſh and good, is a moft wholeſome
diet. How much preferable to that which was ufed fome years.
ago, viz. falt meat and falt broth, and fometimes, it is ſaid,
milk and falt herring? This, with their exceffive labour,
could not fail to excite a most painful thirft; to quench
which, as foon as they came to the Land's End, as they call
it, they went in queft of cold water; of which, when within
their reach, having taken a plentiful fhare, they fat down
to reſt, without reflecting on the danger they were in, which
it is faid, has in fome inftances proved fatal.
Prices of Labour and Provifions.-A mafon commonly
gets I s. a day; a carpenter, or common wright, the fame,
fometimes rather more; a tailor, 8 d.; a weaver gets fo
much
of Forgan.
97
much a yard, ſometimes more, fometimes lefs. A common
labourer, when he works by the piece, will fometimes earn
Is. 6 d. or Is. 8d. a-day; maid fervants get about L. 3 Ster-
ling a-year; men fervants get from L. 6 to L. 10 Sterling;
the men fhearing in harveſt get 1 s. per day; the women
10 d. but the generality of them are hired for a certain
fum during the harveſt; the men from L. 1, Is. to L. I,
5 s. and a lippie of lintfeed; the women 16 s. or 17 s. and a
lippie of ditto, fometimes half a peck.-The beſt beef is for
the moſt part 4 d. per lb. (16 ounces); the mutton fells
uſually at the fame rate; the veal, early in the ſeaſon, fells
at 6 d. per lb. when plenty at 4 d. fometimes at 3 d.; a
hen I s.; a goofe at 3 s.; eggs 4 d. per dozen; rabbits,
when ſkinned, fell at 5 d. per pair; their ſkins fell from 7 s.
to 9 s. or 10 s. per dozen; cheeſe at 5 s. per ftone; pigeons
at 5 d. the pair. Within theſe 20 years, or even leſs, pro-
vifions are almoſt doubled in their price.
Church. The King is the patron. The prefent incum-
Church.—The
bent, Mr JAMES BURN*, is faid to have been the firſt pre-
fentee in Scotland of his preſent Majefty King GEORGE
the III. having been admitted to this parish in May 1761.
He has a ftipend, communibus annis, about L. 80 Sterling,
beſides a manſe and glebe of about 6 acres. An augmen-
tation of ſtipend is in procefs. The church and manſe were
repaired in 1771.
Religious
* His predeceffors were Meffis Wedderburn, Nairn, Ruffell, Gellatly,
and Beat and it is remarkable, that they were all minifters of this parish
for much the fame ſpace of time, about 13 or 14 years, and that all of
them, fave one, were tranflated to other parishes. The prefent incum-
bent had it in his choice oftener than once to have followed their exam-
ple, but preferred his preſent fituation.
VOL. XVI.
N
98
Statistical Account
Religious Sects.-There are not many Diffenters in the
parish; only two Epifcopalians, and a few Antiburgher
Seceders, moft of whom had left the Eſtabliſhed Church
before the prefent incumbent was fettled here. Some of
them left the Seceffion, and came to the parish church;
but when the new mode of finging without reading the
line was introduced, they again withdrew, and carried two
or three individuals along with them. They are fober and
induſtrious, not at all fo bigotted as are many of that fect;
they are very uſeful members of ſociety.
Poor.-There are no begging poor belonging to the pa-
rish, but many fuch from Perth and other places. By
theſe, and travelling tinkers, this part of the country is not
a little oppreffed. It is much to be regretted that each pariſh
does not take care of its own poor, and hinder them from
travelling abroad to other parishes. Befides the number
of penfioners on the poors roll, which fometimes does not
exceed 4, there are not a few who obtain a temporary ſup-
ply of 10 s. 15 s. or L. 1, at a time when fickneſs is in the
family, or the head of it unable to work. Parents who are
not able to pay for the education of their children, have
them educated upon the poors funds, which are made up
from the weekly collections on Sabbath, to which the fea-
faring people, of all others, contribute moſt liberally. The
annual amount of the collections is above L. 14 Sterling.
A farmer in the parish, at his death, fome few years ago,
left a legacy of L. 20 Sterling. This made a confiderable
addition to the fund, which has been more than doubled
within thefe 30 years. It is managed by the kirk-feffion
with care and attention, without the leaft expence to the
fund.
1
Character.
1
of Forgan.
99
Character. They are generally fober and induſtrious.
A few years ago a ſpirit of ſmuggling too much prevailed
in this corner, than which nothing is more ruinous to the
health and morals of thoſe who are addicted to it *. There
is reaſon to believe that little or no gain was made by that
moſt miſchievous traffic, of the effects of which the mini-
fter, from time to time, did not fail to remind them from
the pulpit. This ruinous traffic is now nearly annihilated
among us; and happy were it for the nation that the temp-
tations to it were lefs frequent and powerful than they
fometimes are. None of the people of this pariſh have
been the ſubject of a criminal procefs, nor have any of them
emigrated.
2
NUM.
The last time
* One young man, a tenant in the parish, was moſt unhappily addicted to
it; in a few years he hurt many others, and ruined himſelf
he called at the manfe, he expreffed his wifh that he had followed the advice
the minifter had often given him.-Had he done this, he had probably fuc-
ceeded as a tenant, and eſcaped thoſe miſeries which, by ſmuggling, he un-
happily brought upon himſelf. He lay in a prifon for feveral months, reduced
to great indigence. This is mentioned as a warning to others, who by
fmuggling hope to be made rich, but are far more likely to become
ruined, and to entail miſery and mifchief on themſelves and others,
100
Statistical Account
NUMBER V.
PARISH OF KILLEARN,
(COUNTY OF STIRLING, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND
AYR, PRESBYTERY OF DUMBARTON.)
By the Rev. Mr DAVID URE, M. A. Minifter, Glasgow.
Situation and Extent.
THE pariſh of Killearn forms the weſtern extremity of
the Strath of Blane. This beautiful valley exhibits.
a landſcape, replete with a great variety of ſtriking objects.
It is fkirted by two ridges of hills, fome of which are of
confiderable height. The fore ground is enriched by the
water of Blane, meandring through fertile paftures and well
cultivated fields; whilft the diverfified proſpect, extending
over the parishes of Killearn, Drymen, Kilmarnock,
Buchanan, &c. comprehends Lochlomond, Benlomond,
Benliddie, the Grampian Hills, &c. &c. and at length
is loft among the far diftant mountains of Argyle
and Perthshire, mingling their azure-coloured fummits
with the clouds. Vaft maffes of bafaltic pillars, exhibiting
extenfive colonnades, arranged in almost every poffible di-
rection,
į
of Killearn.
IOI
rection, come into view on the one hand, and a limpid
ſtream, forming a delightful caſcade, on the other. Here a
verdant wood, in variegated windings, fkirts the fides of
the hills; and there a deep glen, hollowed out by the work
of many ages, lays open to view not a ſmall part of the
bowels of the earth. In one point of light may be ſeen the
ruins of an ancient caſtle *, once the well fortified habita-
tion of a rich and powerful family; and in another, a nu-
merous flock, ſcattered like fnowy fpecks on the verdant
declivities of the mountains. Few places in Scotland af-
ford a greater diverſity of the grand and pictureſque ſcenes
of nature, grouped together in fuch pleafing varieties.
This parish is bounded by the parishes of Strathblane and
Campfie, on the S. E.; by New and Old Kilpatricks, on
the S. and S. W.; Drymen and Dumbarton, on the W.;
Balfrone, on the N.; and Fintrie, on the E. It is by com-
putation about 12 miles in length, from N. E. to S. W.
and 22, at an average, in breadth.
Population. It is inhabited by 206 families, 56 of whom
live in the village of Killearn, which contains 223 perfons.
The 150 families refiding in the country, reckoning five
individuals to each, will include 750 inhabitants, making
in whole 973 fouls. The population in the year 1755 was
959. Soon after this time it greatly decreaſed, owing
chiefly to the demolition of cottages, to each of which was
commonly annexed a paffle of two or three acres of land.
Lately, however, from the rapid advance of trade, the popu-
lation has been greatly on the increafe. By the following
table of births, as they ftand inrolled in the parochial re-
cords, it will appear that the preſent population is not fo
great as at a century ago.
TABLE
*Duntreath, the property of Sir Archibald Edmonftone of Duntreath,
Baronet,
102
Statiſtical Account
TABLE OF BIRTHS.
Dates.
Births.
Dates.
Births.
1695,
37
1740,
30
1696,
32
1760,
II
1697,
22
1780,
16
1698,
47
1790,
ΙΟ
1700,
35
1791,
26
1720,
30
1792,
27
Gentlemens Seats, &c.-About a mile and a half fouth of
the village is the Place of Killearn, anciently the feat of a
cadet of the Montroſe family, but lately of Robert Scott of
Killearn, Efq, and now the property of the Right Hon.
James Montgomery, Lord Chief Baron for Scotland. The
prefent edifice, which is far from being large, was built in
the year 1688. Numerous plantations, regularly diſpoſed
in form of clumps, belts, and wilderneffes, beautify and
ſhelter an extenfive tract of pleaſure ground round the houſe.
Croy, fituated about a mile from Killearn place, received
the greatest part of its prefent improvements, about 30
years ago, from its then proprietor, Robert Muirhead, Efq;
merchant, Glasgow. About 50 acres around the manfion-
houſe are laid out in planting, diſpoſed in the moſt advanta-
geous manner for fhelter and ornament. Amongſt the na-
tural beauties of Croy may be mentioned Dualt glen. The
fides of this delightful recefs are very fteep, and, for a long
courſe, exhibit a great variety of trees and fhrubs, grouped
together in almoſt every conceivable form, whilſt the under
herbage diſplays not a few rare indigenous plants in great
perfection. Foot paths, cut out alongſt the windings of the
banks, command, in various points of light, many beauti-
fully diverfified profpects. The head of the glen is ter-
minated by a freeftone rock, nearly perpendicular, about
60
of Killearn.
103
60 feet in height, over which the rivulet of Dualt, falling
precipitately into a deep Linn, forms a delightful caſcade,
which adds not a little to the grandeur and folemnity of
the ſcene. About half a mile from Dualt glen, and in the
eſtate of Croy, is Aſhdow, which exhibits a ſcenery in many
reſpects peculiarly ftriking. It confifts of a high rock, over
which the water of Carnock precipitately falls, and, by the
work of many ages, has cut out for itſelf a deep and wind-
ing paffage. The projecting rocks, on both fides the water,
are wild beyond defcription. Nearly meeting at the top,
in fome places, they widen below into beautiful curva-
tures, naturally hollowed out in various directions. The
romantic appearance of the rocks is fet off to advantage by
trees and ſhrubs hanging, in great profufion, over the clefts.
The rivulet dashing over the precipice, and rumbling
through the deep-worn channel; the united harmony of a
great variety of the feathered tribe; and the dark ſhade,
which perpetually refts upon a great part of this pictureſque
fcenery, confpire to fill the mind of the beholder with the
moſt pleaſing ideas of the grand, the delightful, and the
folemn. The eftate of Croy, now the property of William
Richardſon of Croy, Efq; Profeffor of Humanity in the Uni-
verfity of Glasgow, is receiving daily improvements.
--
Ballikinrain, the property and fummer refidence of Ro-
bert Dunmore of Ballindaloch, Efq; occupies one of the moſt
pleaſant fituations in this part of the country. The man-
fion-houſe, which is of a modern conftruction, is by far the
moſt elegant and commodious dwelling-houfe in the parish.
The eſtate, before it came by marriage into Mr Dunmore's
poffeffion, belonged for feveral centuries to the Napiers of
Ballikinrain. The laft proprietor, John Napier of Balli-
kinrain, Efq; was the fixteenth of the name and family of
Napier, who, in fucceffion, poffeffed the eſtate. It is now
enriched with many agricultural improvements, especially
incioiures
:
:
:
.
104
Statistical Account
incloſures and planting, which are highly ornamental as
well as profitable.
On the eſtate of Balglafs, likewife the property of Mr
Dunmore, and adjoining to Ballikinrain, is a large dwelling-
houſe or caſtle, of an antiquated conftruction. It is re-
ported that this place was anciently well fortified, and that
Sir William Wallace of Elerflie, the brave defender of his
country, once found it a fafe retreat in time of danger.
This place is rendered confpicuous by the Corries or Curries
of Balglass. They are femicircular excavations, naturally
hollowed out in the weſtern extremity of that ridge of hills,
commonly known by the name of Campfie and Strath-
blane Fells. Some of the Corries are very ſpacious, being
more than a mile diameter. In feveral places they beau-
tifully exhibit the various mineral ftrata, of which the
mountains are compofed.
At no great diftance from Ballikinrain are Balquban
(vulgarly Boban) and Carbeth; the former, belonging to
Thomas Buchanan of Balquhan, Efq; and the latter to John
Buchanan of Carbeth, Efq. Around the manſion-houſes
on both eſtates are plantations and incloſures to a confider-
able extent.
No ſpot in the parish, or perhaps in Scotland, has a bet-
ter claim to the attention of the public, than the indifput-
able birth-place of GEORGE BUCHANAN, the celebrated
poet and hiſtorian. That great man, whofe name is de-
fervedly famous through Europe, was born at a place
called the Moſs, a fmall farm-houſe on the bank of the
water of Blane, and about two miles from the village of
Killearn. The farm was the property of George Bucha-
nan's father, and was for a long time poffeffed by the name
of Buchanan. It is now the property of Mr William Fin-
lay of Mofs, and holds of the family of Drummikill, from
which
1
of Killearn.
105
which George's anceſtors defcended. The place is called
the Mofs, becauſe it is fituated in the vicinity of a peat-
mofs, which is part of the farm. The dwelling-houſe, con-
ſidered as a building, is very far from being confpicuous;
although it is no worſe, and probably never was worſe than
the ordinary farm-houſes in this part of the country. Its
appearance of meanneſs ariſes from its being very low, and
covered with ſtraw thatch. Part of it, however, has been
rebuilt, fince the year 1506, when George was born. Mr
Finlay is highly to be commended for preſerving, as much
as poffible, the ancient conftruction and appearance of this
far famed and much honoured houſe. The moſt ſuperb
edifice would fink into oblivion, when compared with the
humble birth-place of George Buchanan. Long may the
Mofs of Killearn afford mankind a ſtriking proof that the
GENIUS of learning does not always prefer the lofty abodes
of the great and powerful. It muft, however, be remarked,
that the parents of Buchanan, although not very opulent,
yet were not in abject or indigent circumftances. The
farm, which confifts of a plough of land, was able, by the
aid of induſtry and economy, to keep them eaſy. A place
in the neighbourhood is, to this day, called Heriot's Shiels,
fo denominated from Buchanan's mother, whoſe name was
Agnes Heriot, and who firft ufed that place for the fhield-
ing of fheep. It is reported, that he received the firft ru-
diments of his education at the public fchool of Killearn,
which was for a long time in great repute, and much fre-
quented. He afterwards, by the liberal affiſtance of his
uncle George Heriot, after whom he was named, went to
Dumbarton, Paris, c. c. to complete his ftudies. A
confiderable number of old trees yet remain adjacent to
the houfe; and are reported to have been planted by
George when a boy. A mountain afb, famous for its age
VOL. XVI.
O
and
{
{
106
Statiſtical Account
and fize, was blown down a few years ago; but care is
taken to preſerve two thriving fhoots that have riſen from
the old ſtool.
The gentlemen of this parish and neighbourhood, led
by a laudable ambition to contribute a teftimony of respect
to their learned countryman, lately erected, by voluntary
fubfcription, a beautiful Monument to his memory. By
fuch public marks of approbation beftowed upon good and
great men, the living may reap advantage from the dead.
Emulation is thereby excited, and the active powers of the
mind ſtimulated by an ardour to excel in whatever is
praiſeworthy. Buchanan's monument is fituated in the
village of Killearn, and commands an extenfive proſpect.
It is a well-proportioned Obeliſk, 19 feet fquare at the bafis,
and reaching to the height of 103 feet above the ground.
In the middle is a cavity of 6 feet fquare at the bottom,
gradually diminiſhing until it reaches the height of 54 feet,
where it becomes fo narrow as to receive the end of a
Norway pole, which is continued to the top of the obelisk.
To this pole, the machinery for raifing up the materials.
for building, was fixed. Owing to this peculiar mode of
conſtruction, the monument is believed to be much ſtrong-
er than if it were folid. The foundation was laid, in the
month of June 1788, by the Reverend James Graham,
miniſter of the parish. In the foundation-ſtone was de-
pofited a crystal bottle hermetically fealed, containing a fil-
yer medal, on which was engraved the following infcrip
tion:
In
of Killearn:
107
In Memoriam,
Georgii Buchanani,
Poetæ et Hiftorici celeberrimi:
Accolis hujus loci, ultra conferentibus,
hæc Columna pofita eft, 1788.
Jacobus Craig, architect. Edinburgen.
This beautiful ftructure is built of a white millſtone-
grit found a little above the village of Killearn, and in the
eſtate of the Lord Chief Baron. The quarry from which
it was taken has been wrought for a long time paſt, and is
very extenfive: It was known by the name of the Lettre-
hill Quarry, from the name of the ground; afterwards it
was called the Mill-ftone Quarry, becauſe mill-ſtones were
frequently taken from it; then the Houſe of Montrofe
Quarry, becauſe it afforded ftones for the Duke of Mon-
trofe's houſe at Buchanan; now it is called the Monument
Quarry. The ſtone is not of a very courſe grit, but is ex-
tremely hard and durable.
Gartnefs.-The Pot of Gartness, in the water of Enrick,
has, for its beauty and fingularity, always attracted the at-
tention of ſtrangers. It is a deep linn, fhaped like a cal-
dron or pot, whence the origin of the name. It is occa-
fioned by the fall of the water over a rock that lies acroſs
the river; the fall is not perpendicular, but is interrupted
by three or four breaks. This romantic and well known
ſpot affords no little entertainment to the angler; as the
falmon and trout from Lochlomond, being frequently un-
able to force their way over the rock, which requires two
or three great leaps quickly made, are detained in the linn,
and
108
Statiſtical Account
and taken fometimes in great numbers.At this place,
but on the Drymen fide of the water*, is Gartnefs mill,
which has long maintained a high reputation for grain and
lint. The remarkable fervices done the public by this
mill during the great froft in the year 1740, were ſo fea-
fonable, that they will not for a long time be forgotten.
It fortunately happened, that in 1739 the mill received a
new wheel of a very good conſtruction. It was made of
black faugh (willow) that grew at Touch, a few miles
from Stirling. This kind of wood, of all others, was then
preferred for making mill-wheels; its excellency was fup-
pofed to confift in toughness and durability. Owing to
the ſtrength and other properties of the wheel, Gartnefs-
mill was, by the aid of a conſtant fire, kept a-going during
the ſeverity of the froft, when all other mills, for a great
way round, were entirely ſtopped. Corn at that time was
brought to Gartnefs from great diftances, and thereby ma-
ny families were kept from ſtarving.-Adjoining the mill
are the remains of an old houſe in which JOHN NAPIER
of Merchiſton, inventor of the logarithms, refided a great
part of his time (for fome years) when he was making his
calculations. It is reported, that the noife of the caſcade
being conſtant, never gave him uneafinefs, but that the
clack of the mill, which was only occafional, greatly di-
fturbed his thoughts. He was, therefore, when in deep
ſtudy, fometimes under the neceffity of defiring the miller
to ſtop the mill, that the train of his ideas might not be in-
terrupted. He uſed frequently, in the evening, to walk
out in his night gown and cap. This, with fome things
which to the vulgar appeared rather odd, fixed on him the
character of a warlock. It was firmly believed, and cur-
rently reported that he was in compact with the devil; and
that
* The Eurick at this place divides Killearn from Drymen pariſh.
|
1
of Killearn.
109
that the time he ſpent in ftudy was ſpent in learning the
black art, and holding converfation with Old Nick. But
John Napier was not the only great man who, in days of
ignorance, was fuppoſed to be a wizard; nor were the vul-
gar in this neighbourhood the only people who believed
in witchcraft.
Quadrupeds, Birds, &c.-This pariſh is not remarkable
for
any
of the more uncommon productions of nature. The
fox, badger and foumart, are no ftrangers to ſome of the
glens and rocks. Ashdow is particularly noted for the
haunts of owls, hawks, kaws, and wild cats. The currie
of Balglafs has long been remarked for an eagle that hat-
ches her young in that fequeftered and rocky ſpot. He-
rons have their periodical haunts in ſeveral places of the
parish, as at Balglafs and Corbeth, where in tall fir-trees
they annually bring forth their young. The king's-fisher
has been obferved at Croy, on the banks of the Blane, a
river much reſembling the muddy and flow-flowing wa-
ters chiefly frequented by that beautiful bird. Jays, mag-
pies and bulfinches abound in the plantations at the hill
of Killearn, and ſome of the neighbouring banks.
Fish.-Few places in Scotland afford better entertain-
ment for the angler than this parish, there being a great
number of rivulets and brooks abounding with trout, of
which Lochlomond affords in great plenty a perpetual fup-
ply. Salmon, pike, and eels of different kinds, frequent
the Enrick and Blane; but no fish in greater numbers, at
a certain ſeaſon of the year, than the braife (roach, Eng.)
Vaft fhoals come up from Lochlomond, and by nets are
caught in thouſands Their emigrations from the loch,
however, are only for the space of three or four days about
2
the
110
Statistical Account
the end of May. The parr is, through the whole year, an
inhabitant of the Enrick; but it is in greateft perfection
about the beginning of harveſt. Some of them more than
a foot in length, have been caught at Gartneſs.
Plants, Trees, &c.-Great varieties of indigenous plants
ornament the numerous glens, rocks, and muirs. The Ju-
niper grows in fome places to a great fize, and is com-
monly very prolific. The ftone bridge over the Blane, at
the Mofs, is founded upon a layer of juniper bufhes. It is
believed that this plant, when in a wet fituation below
ground, refifts corruption for a very long time. It was be-
lieved, during the plague in Scotland, that people who
lived in the immediate neighbourhood of places abounding
with juniper, or who burned it plentifully in their houſes,
were not readily, if at all affected with the plague. The
Scottish Gaul, (Myrica Gale, Linn.), a valuable vermi-
fuge, abounds in feveral places of the parish. Were the
qualities of this oderiferous fhrub more generally known,
its cultivation would probably be attended with confider-
able profit. Amongst the plants which are not generally
very common, are the Feftuca ovina vivipara; Echium
vulgare, Imperatoria Oftruthium, Parnaffia paluftris, Poly-
gonum Penfylvanicum, Adoxa Mofchatellina, Eryfimum
Barbarea, Chryfofplenium Alternifolium, Saxifraga hyp
noides, Matricaria Parthenium, Empetrum nigrum, Afple-
nium Scolopendrium, A. Ruta muraria, Polypodium Lon-
chitis, P. phegopteris, P. fragile, Lycopodium clavatum,
L. Selaginoides, L. Selago, L. Alpinum.
The Sambucus nigra (elder tree, Eng.) is no ſtranger
in many places of the parish. Some of the trees are very
well fhaped, and by the natural bending of the branches
cauſe an agreeable flade, or bower, exhibiting an example
of the propriety of the name given to that ſpecies of plants
in
of Killearn.
III
in Scotland, namely, the Bower-tree. A great number of
beautiful oaks ornament the eftate of Ballikinrain. The
largeſt, and probably the oldeſt in the parish, grows in full.
vigour at Killearn place. The trunk is 12 feet circum-
ference, and fupports many ſtately branches that widely
diſplay a foliage uncommonly pleaſant. No production of
the vegetable kingdom in this pariſh is, however, more re-
markable than two large yew trees at Ballikinrain. One
is the berry bearing kind, the other not. The trunk of the
former is 8 feet in circumference, of the latter, 10 feet 8
inches. They are only 9 feet ſeparate from each other,
making the appearance, at a diſtance, of a fingle tree only;
they are about 60 feet in height. Nine large branches
ſtrike off from the male plant, at the height of 6 feet from
the ground: they make a beautiful curve downwards, fo
that their extremities touch the earth, and cover an area of
18 yards diameter, forming a moſt agreeable ſhade, impe-
netrable at all times to rain. As there is no account, even
by tradition, when they were planted, their age must be
great. They are frequented by a confiderable number of
the golden creſted wren, (Motacila Regulus), the ſmalleſt
bird in Europe, and, except the humming bird, probably
in the world. They build their nefts under the curving
extremities of the branches, where the foliage is thickeft.
Their nefts are constructed with exquifite art, and are fuf-
pended under the twigs, like fo many little baſkets from
the ceiling of a room.
This part of the country is far from being deftitute of
exotic plants in a high degree of perfection. This is par-
ticularly the cafe with refpect to the larix, a great number
of which adorn the banks and inclofures at the houſe of
Killearn. They are about 60 years old, being among the
first of the kind that were planted in the open field in Scot-
land; they are generally 3 feet diameter at the thickeſt,
and
112
Statiſtical Account
f
and have grown to the tallneſs of nearly 100 feet. For
beauty and fize very few, if any of the kind in Scotland
furpaſs them. In the vicinity of the larixes are many beau-
tiful ſpruce and beech trees, of uncommonly large dimen-
fions. The oriental mapple, the fweet chefnut and tulip
trees have, in this place, arrived to great perfection and
beauty.
Minerals, &c.—With reſpect to the mineral kingdom,
few things in this pariſh merit particular attention. The
higher parts of the hills confiſt chiefly of a decompoſible
whinftone, containing, in fome places, ſmall veins of an hæ-
matitical iron ore; but the quantity yet difcovered is too
ſmall to become an object of importance. In fome places
on the fides of the hills, are found many fucceffive ſtrata of
till and limeſtone. Theſe are beautifully diſplayed in ſe-
veral places where large excavations have been made by
means of water. The limeftene is of two kinds, and is
wrought but in fmall quantities. The preferable kind is
not diſpoſed in regular compact ftrata, but rather in irre-
gular maffes, imbedded in a reddish clay blotched with
white. The inferior kind is called camflone, from its being
chiefly found in glens. It is diſpoſed in thin, but nume-
rous regular ftrata, feparated from each other by a bluish
till, that, when acted upon by the weather, falls down into
clay. The camſtone, when broken, has a ſmooth ſurface;
it contains a great proportionable quantity of clay in its
compofition; and after it is fufficiently burnt, and whilſt
red hot in the fire, it must be flacked with water poured
upon it, otherwiſe it will not readily fall down into lime.
The ſtrata are ſo thin, that they are not thought to be worth
working. Fragments of the ftone, which fall down from
the fides of the glens, are occafionally gathered for ufe.
Some varieties of it, which crumble down by expoſure to
the weather, might, without being burnt, ferve for the
purpoſe
of Killearn.
113
1
purpoſe of manure. An extenfive ftratum of an excellent
millſtone grit enriches the eftate of Balglaſs, and ſupplies
the country to a great diſtance with millstones. The quar-
ry began to be regularly wrought about 40 years ago; it
is now cut down to the depth of 24 feet, and can afford
ſtones of any fize, and of 3 different qualities. A very
thick ftratum of foft freeftone, the grit not fine, prevails in
all the lower grounds of the parish; its depth has not yet
been diſcovered. It is of a red colour, but variegated with
blotches, and fireaks of white and grey. It is not of the
beſt quality for building, and affords no fymptoms of any
valuable mineral in the vicinity. Several trials, by boring
and ſhanking, have been made to find coal, but unſucceſs-
fully; and I do not think that any where in the parish
the ſymptoms of that uſeful foffil are favourable. Amongſt
the ſtones in this parish may be mentioned a jaſper, which
abounds in the banks of Enrick, and likewife in the pa-
riſhes of Buchanan, Balfrone, and Fintry. The colours are
brown, red and green intermixed, in the form of blotches
and ramifications; fome nodules refemble the bloodſtone,
whilft others contain a confiderable portion of the zoned
agate, which abounds in many places of Scotland. The
jaſper takes a fine poliſh, and has been cut into feals, but.
tons, &c.
Climate. The climate is wet and cold, but the air is not
infalubrious. The inhabitants are not remarkably fubject
to any epidemical diſeaſe. Many of them live to a confi-
derable old age: There are four perfons at preſent between
8 and 90 years of age. John Buchanan of Provanſtoun,
aged 104, died here anno 1792.
Agriculture.-The moſt of the hilly part of the pariſh is
yet in a ſtate of nature, having never been plowed; but
VOL. XVI.
Р
the
114
Statistical Account
the lower grounds are generally arable. The former con-
tains ſeveral extenfive moors and moffes, which are chiefly
occupied in fheep-walks; the latter, (not the half of the
extent of the parish), is for the most part incloſed with
ftone-dikes and hedges. The foil is, for the most part,
of a ſtiff clay that becomes exceffively hard when dry, and
generally has a wet cold tilly bottom. In fome districts,
however, are a few fields of a loamy foil, which produce
good crops of oats, barley and peafe. The climate is very
་
unfavourable for the culture of wheat; but the cultivation
of lint, potatoes, ryegrafs and clover, is attended with pro-
fit. There is, however, more cropped with oats than with
all the reft put together. The cultivation of turnip in the
open field is nct practifed, although, from fome few trials
that were made on that profitable root, there is reaſon to
believe that it might be attended with confiderable advan-
tage in feveral thoufand acres in the parish. Extremely
few of the lately improved implements of huſbandry have
here been brought into practice. The common Scotch
plough, wrought with four horfes, is in general ufe. The
farmer, before agriculture can be brought to any tolerable
degree of perfection, muſt direct his care to free his land
from under water, which almoft univerfally prevails. But
the practice of draining, although very much needed, meets.
here with fall attention.
Few places afford better opportunities for irrigation than
this parif. The country is abundantly fupplied with ex-
cellent water that pours down from the adjacent heights in
fprings and fmall rivulets, which could eafily be directed
over the numerous declivities. This mode of improvement
was a few years ago tried with fuccefs in Mr Dunmore's
eftate. The land over which the water was made to flow,
produced grafs uncommonly luxuriant, and retained through
the whole year a fine verdure.
Attention
j
of Killearn.
115
Attention is beginning to be paid to the breeding of
milch-cows by croffing the Ayrſhire with the native breed,
which approaches nearly to the Highland. The native
cows are generally of a black colour, with white faces;
and weigh, when fat, about 16 ftone heavy weight. The
milk of a cow per day in ſummer, is commonly about 4
pints Scotch. The milk is moftly made into butter, that
brings at an average 9 d. per lb. The kimmed milk is
made into cheeſe that is fold from 4 s. to 5 s. per ftone.
Grazing cattle for flaughter is, in many parts of the pariſh,
carried to a confiderable extent, and is attended with pro-
fit. The moorland farms are ftocked with about 1400
ſcore of the black and grey faced sheep. A few Spanish
fheep were, in the beginning of 1793, brought by Mr Dun-
more to Ballikinrain, and are thriving very well. Horfes
for the draught are of the Lanarkſhire breed, and are chief-
ly purchaſed at Glaſgow and Rutherglen markets.
Not a
few of the farmers, however, are in the practice of rearing
horſes on their farms. Two-wheeled carts, and waggons
with one horſe, are very generally uſed; but fledges are
found to be neceffary in the moorland farms.
The arable land is in general divided into farms of about
60 acres each. Theſe are let in leafes chiefly of 19 years du-
ration. The lands in the eftate of Killearn are, for the en-
couragement of the farmer, generally let in leafes of three
19 years; and the confequences are far from being bad,
for the tenants are, on the whole, doing very well. Care,
however, is very properly taken by the Lord Chief Baron,
to give this encouragement only to perfons of active and in-
duftrious habits, and who have a fpirit for agricultural im-
provements. Long leafes to an indolent farmer, even although
at certain terms there may be a proportionated rife in the
rent, only encourages his infuperable indolence. He ſeeks
no more than merely to fcrape together as much as will
barely
116
Statistical Account
barely pay the rent, and keep his family in life. The
land is worn out to the laſt; his domeftics are trained up in
habits of negligence and floth; a bad example is fet before
the community;-and Poverty ftares with her meagre
countenance, in the houſe and in the field.
The moorland farms are feveral hundred acres in extent.
The great difparity of foil and fituation, occafions a fimilar
diſparity of the rent of land. From 10s. to 15 s. per acre
is a common rent for arable land; but fome of it is no
higher than 6s. or 7s. Some places, eſpecially on the
banks of Blane and Enrick, where the foil is very good,
are uſually rented at L. I, 10 s. per acre; but in many
parts of the moors an acre is not worth more than 6 d. and
in the moffes not worth 1 d. The increaſe of manufactures
in the neighbourhood, and the advancement of agricultural
improvements, for which there is great room in the pariſh,
I will probably raife confiderably the value of land.
parish is fupplied with feven corn-mills and two lint-mills,
which have abundance of water all times of the year. To
theſe mills the moſt part of the pariſh yet continues to be
aftricted.
I
The
Trade.-Every encouragement is given the farmer by
having a profitable and ready market in Balfrone, to which
he has an eaſy acceſs. The late rapid population of that
newly erected village, has greatly improved the adjacent
country. This pleafing alteration arifes wholly from a
variety of manufactures, recently introduced into the neigh-
bourhood, chiefly by Robert Dunmore of Ballindalloch, Efq.
This public-fpirited gentleman, infpired with the am-
bition of doing good to mankind by employing them in
uſeful induſtry, began his improvements in the year 1788,
by eſtabliſhing a muſlin manufactory at Balfrone. This
village, which is in the immediate neighbourhood of Kil-
learn,
of Killearn.
117
learn, and which formerly contained no more than fix or
feven families, was at that time laid out according to a re-
gular plan, and now contains no fewer than 220 families.
The houſes, many of which are 2 ftories high, are in general
covered with flate. The Ballikinrain cotton-mill was erected
by Mr Dunmore in 1792. It is conſtructed for ſpinning wool-
len as well as cotton; the former for the carpet, the latter for
the muſlin manufacture. This work, at prefent carried on
under the management of Mr Robert Macmorran from
Douglafs, employs about 100 perfons, moft of whom refide
in the neighbourhood of the mill. The greateſt manufac-
turing work in the pariſh is Enrick printfield, which was
begun in 1792. The operative part of the buſineſs is car-
ried on by Mr J. F. Moriar, a Swifs, under the firm of
Meffrs Monteith, Warren, and Company, Glaſgow. The
buildings are conſtructed to contain 16 printing preffes, to
go by water, and 72 tables for block-printing, befides
boiling-houſes, dye-houfes, &c. for executing bufinefs on a
very extenſive ſcale. Every part of the apparatus is new,
and of the moſt approved conſtruction, eſpecially the waſh-
ing wheels, which are not ſurpaſſed by any in Europe. One
of the bleaching-fields, confifting of a plain of 15 acres, is
fecured from the inundations of Enrick by an artificial
bank, the raiſing of which coft a confiderable fum of mo-
ney. Buſineſs was begun here in the month of June 1793.
But unfortunately an entire ftop was almoft put to the
work by the preſent ftagnation of trade, which has com-
municated its baneful influence through all this country.
The whole work at prefent (Sept. 1793) employs no
more than 250 perfons, the most of whom refide in Bal-
frone.
Manufactures, Wages, c.-The manufactures in the
pariſh, befides what are carried on in the places already
mentioned,
3
118
Statiſtical Account,
mentioned, are not very confiderable. Their ſtate may,
in general, be known from the following lift of tradefmen
and artificers-Blackfmiths, 4; coopers, 4; dyers, 4;
flax-dreffers, 3; gardeners, 2; hofiers, 11; mafons, 7;
ſhoemakars, 12; tailors, 5; weavers, 28; wrights, 14.-
Mafons and wrights receive 1 s. 8 d. a-day, during fum-
mer, and from I s. to I s. 2 d. in winter. Tailors work in
their employers houſes, each receiving, befides his victuals,
10 d. for his day's work. The hofiers are all employed
by manufacturers in Glaſgow, and are paid by the piece.
A day labourer has from 8 d. to Is. a-day, with victuals;
and Is. 3 d. or 1 s. 4 d. without victuals. A man-fervant
for country work has from L. 3 to L. 5 Sterling, per half-
year, befides bed, board and waſhing; a woman-ſervant
has about L. 2. All the fhoemakers are engaged in cufto-
mary work, a common expreffion for home confumpt. In
this alſo all the weavers are at preſent employed. That
fo many looms fhould be engaged in customary work for
ſo ſmall a number of people, ceaſes to be a wonder when
it is confidered that very little cloth of foreign manufacture
is worn in the parish. The inhabitants continue the prac-
tice of making cloth for their own wearing. The men are
decently clothed, both for kirk and market, with well-dref-
fed Scots cloth, commonly of a brown, grey, or blue colour.
In this they think themſelves to be warmer and more com-
fortable than in the beft English fuperfine. The womens.
apparel is chiefly a variety of ftuffs of their own manufac-
ture; as Bengals, a kind of cloth of linen warp, and cotton
weft; drugget, compoſed of linen warp and woollen weft;
harns, and other coarfe linens of various kinds, befides
plaiding, both tweeled and plain, for gowns and petticoats.
Their bed-cloaths, as blankets, ticking, &c. are wholly of
their own making. The linen yarn they fpin from lint
of their own raifing, and the woollen from fleeces the pro-
2
duct
of Killearn.
119
1
duct of sheep farms in the pariſh. They practiſe the arts
of fcouring and bleaching their woollen and linen, which,
for the ſafety of both yarn and cloth, they prefer to the
methods uſed in fome bleachfields. A lye made of brec-
kins (pteris aquilina, LINN.) is of great ufe to them, both
for washing and bleaching. The method of preparing this
lye is very fimple. The breckins are cut when arrived at
their full growth, and always when dry. As foon as con-
venient after being cut, they are mixed with dried broom;
both are laid in a heap, and burned. No more broom is
uſed than what is neceſſary to affift in thoroughly burning
them. Along with the broom is ſometimes added the
dried roots of cabbages and green kail. The aſhes of the
whole are carefully collected, and boiled in water until all
the alkali is diffolved; then the lye is poured off for uſe.
In this lye the yarn or cloth is boiled for a certain time;
and the bleaching is thereby greatly accelerated. Not a
few of the inhabitants dye a confiderable variety of colours,
from materials the product of the country. In the proper
management of their cloth, however, they are greatly af
fiſted by Mr William Famifon, dyer and clothdreffer at
Runroy near Gartneſs, who has brought the dyeing and
dreffing of Scots cloth to a confiderable degree of perfec-
tion. Cloth is fent him to be dyed and dreffed from Glaſ-
gow, Stirling, and all the country round. Mr Jamifon
manufactures plaids, duffles, blankets, &c. &c. for fale;
and his demands are daily increafing.
In addition to what the induftrious women of Killearn
make for their family wear, they bring a confiderable
quantity of cloth to the market. As much ufually of
every web is expofed to fale, as defrays the out-laid ex-
pences for weaving, &c. For this overplus they find
abundance of cuſtomers, either in the city of Glaſgow, or
120
Statistical Account
at three fairs annually held in
the
village of Killearn.
to
Scots cloth is fold from 10 d. to
harn from 8 d. to 1 s. 5 d. ; linen from
5 s. 6 d.
5s. 6 d. per yard;
1 s. 6 d. to 3 s.
By a community fo actively employed, little time is
waſted in idleness, intemperance, or political cabals. There
are, however five public houſes in the pariſh, but they are
chiefly frequented by travellers. Two turnpike-roads,
lately made through the parith, are of great fervice to the
inhabitants. The ftatute-labour, which is moftly raiſed in
money at 18 s. Sterling per L. 100 Scots of valued rent, is
applied to private roads, which are ſtill far from being in a
good condition.
The greateſt impediment to improvements in this part
of the country is the fcarcity of good fuel. The neareſt coal
is in Campfie or Baldernock, at the diſtance of 10 or 12
miles. The price at the hill is 1 s. 6 d. the cart-load, con-
taining about 12 cwt. The carriage comes to about 4 s. The
fcarcity of coal is fupplied by turf and peat, for obtaining
which the feuars and tenants have a fervitude on the moors.
The turf is procured by letting fire to the grafs and heath
about the month of June, and then raiſing the furface with
what is called a flaughter fpade. This practice greatly in-
jures the moors by depriving them of their verdure, which
neceffarily requires ſeveral years to be renewed. The lofs,
however, is in fome meafure repaid by the great quantity
of aſhes for manure, procured from this kind of fuel.
Religion-With reſpect to the ſtate of religion, few obſer-
vations occur that merit the attention of the public. The peo-
ple in general regularly attend divine fervice in the parish.
church. There are only about 12 adherents to the different
parties of Seceders. Several refpectable clergymen, fince
the reformation from Popery, have fucceffively been mi-
nifters of the parish, as Meff, Forſter, Gillespie, Sempell and
+
Craig,
of Killearn.
121
Craig, before the Revolution in 1668. Since that time the
people have been happy under the fuccefsful miniftry of
Meffrs George Park, James Bain, James Morriſon, and the
prefent incumbent, James Graham, who was ordained
anno 1768 The church was rebuilt in the year 1734, and
is conveniently feated. Mr John Finlayſon has, for nearly
40 years, officiated as parochial ſchoolmaster.
parochial ſchoolmaster. The falary
is L. 8, 13 s. yearly. The wages for Engliſh, writing, and
arithmetic are only 1 s. 6d. per quarter. Three or four
private ſchools have, for fome time paft, been kept in dif-
ferent parts of the pariſh; the numerous rivulets and deep
glens by which the country is interfected, render, to child-
ren living at a diftance, the access to the parochial ſchool
always dangerous, and often impoflible.
State of the Poor.-Paupers uſually on the feffion-lift are
from 10 to 15, who, according to their need, receive from
4 s. to 16 s. per quarter. A few indigent families receive,
after the facrament, a little fupply, as the minifter and
elders fee proper. The funds for answering theſe chari-
table purpoſes amount annually to about L. 30, the moſt of
which is collected in boxes handed by the elders through
the church, immediately before pronouncing the bleffing in
the forenoon. None of the poor are permitted to beg. To
be fo poor as to need affiftance from the kirk-feffion is in
this, and moft other places of Scotland, where poor taxes.
are not eſtabliſhed, accounted a difgrace, as ſuch a ſtate is
commonly confidered as proceeding, for the most part,
either from indolence or mifmanagement. Every attempt.
to eradicate, or even to weaken fuch a fenfe of fhame, is
doing a manifeſt injury to ſociety.
Miſcellaneous Obfervations.—Superftition yet continues
to operate ſo ſtrongly on fome people, that they put a ſmall
VOL. XVI.
quantity
е
122
Statiſtical Account
quantity of falt into the firſt milk of a cow after calving,
that is given any perfon to drink. This is done with a
view to prevent ſkaith, if it ſhould happen that the perſon
is not cany. A certain quantity of cow dung is forced in-
to the mouth of a calf immediately after it is calved, or at
leaſt before it receives any meat; owing to this, the vul-
gar believe that witches and fairies can have no power ever
after to injure the calf. But theſe, and fuch like fuperfti
tious cuſtoms, are every day more and more lofing their in-
fluence.
At Blareſſen Spout-head, if we believe tradition, a bloody
battle was fought between the Romans and Scots; feveral
ſtones ſet on edge have continued ever fince to diſtinguiſh
the ſpot. The tenant, a few years ago, would have car-
ried all the ſtones away, had he not been ſtrictly prohibited
by Mr Buchanan of Carbeth, the proprietor of the ground,
who had got notice of his intentions.
A very large cairn fome time ago was demoliſhed in the
muir of Killearn, and the ftones uſed for building dikes.
This ancient fepulchral tumulus concealed, in the bottom
of it, a coffin, compoſed of ſtones fo very large that they
could not eaſily be removed, without being firſt broken in
pieces.
A phenomenon not unworthy the attention of the public,
is an old woman, who, owing to exceffive grief, about 20
years ago, became deranged in her judgment. She was
then about 50 years of her age. The hair of her head
foon afterwards became thin and very grey, in which ſtate
it continued till about 5 years ago, when it gradually turned
black, thick, and ſtrong.. She generally goes with her head
bare, and has not yet recovered the right uſe of her reaſon.
The kippering of falmon is fuccefsfully practifed in fe-
veral parts of the parish. All the blood is taken from the
fish immediately after it is killed; this is done by cutting
the
of Killearn.
123
the gills; it is then cut up at the back, on each fide the
bone or chain, as it is commonly called. The bone is ta-
ken out, but the tail, with two or three inches of the bone
is left; the head is cut off; all the guts are taken out; but
the ſkin of the belly is left uncut; the fiſh is then laid, with
the ſkin undermoft, on a board, and is well rubbed, and
covered over with a mixture of equal quantities of com-
mon ſalt and Jamaica pepper. Some of this mixture is
carefully ſpread under the fins to prevent them from cor-
rupting, which they are exceedingly ready to do, efpecially
if the weather is warm. A board with a large ftone is
fometimes laid upon the fiſh, with a view to make the falt
penetrate into it more effectually. In fome places, as
Dumbarton, inſtead of a flat board, a fhallow wooden.
trough is uſed, by which means the brine is kept about
the fiſh; ſometimes two or three falmon are kippered in
the fame veſſel at the fame time, one being laid upon the
other. The fish, with the board or trough, is fet in a cool
place for two or three days; it is then removed from the
board, and again rubbed with falt and pepper, after which
it is hung up by the tail, and expofed to the rays of the
fun, or the heat of the fire. Care is previouſly taken to
ſtretch out the fiſh by means of ſmall ſticks or hoops placed
acroſs it from fide to fide. After it has remained in the
heat a few days, it is hung up in the kitchen, or other dry
place, till ufed. Every method is taken to keep the fish
from putrefaction. It is an error to ſuppoſe, as fome have
ignorantly done, that kippered falmon means corrupted
falmon.
Some people, in order to give the kipper a peculiar
taſte, highly reliſhed by not a few, carefully fmoke it with
peat reek, or the reek of Juniper buſhes. This is com-
monly done by hanging it up fo near a chimney in which
peats, or Juniper bushes are burnt, as that it receives the
fmoke.
124
Statiſtical Account
!
fmoke. There it remains two or three weeks, by which
time it generally acquires the tafte. Salmon kippered in
this manner uſually félls 2 d. per lb. higher than when freſh.
This pariſh and neighbourhood were, for a long time,
unhappily expofed to the plundering inroads of large com-
panies of migratory freebooters, who for fafety lurked in
the borders of the Highlands. Thefe depredators made
frequent incurfions into the parishes of Buchanan, Balfrone,
Killearn, Dumbarton, Kilpatricks, &c. and carried off all
the cattle they could find. This infamous practice was
continued fo late as the year 1743, and perhaps later.
Long before that, however, fome gentlemen near the bor-
der of the Highlands, undertook, for certain fums of money,
to protect the property of their neighbours, or to make a
full recompence for what was ftolen from them. The
money paid for this protection was called the Black Mail,
and was paid agreeably to a bargain concluded upon by the
two contracting parties. One of the original contracts re-
mains in the poffeffion of Mr Dunmore at Ballikinrain.
As this contract is not only a literary curiofity, but is per-
haps the only contract of the kind now exiſting, and as it
exhibits a true picture of the ſtate of the country fo late as
the year 1741, and likewife leads us to form an idea of the
happy alteration that has fince taken place, the fubjoined
copy of it verbatim will not, it is prefumed, be unaccept-
able to the public, efpecially as the report of the Black
Mail is fo generally, yet ſo imperfectly known *.
* Copy of a Contract for keeping a Watch on the Borders of the
Highlands, anno 1741.
It is contracted, agreed, and finally ended betwixt the parties under-
written, to witt; James and John Graham elder and younger of Glen-
gyle, on the one part, and the gentlemen, heritors, and tenants, within
the
#
1
of Killearn.
125
1
the fhires of Perth, Stirling, and Dumbarton, who are hereto fubfcribing, on
the other part, in manner following: Whereas, of late years, feveral per-
fons within the bounds aforefaid have been very great fufferers through
ftealing of their cattle, horſes, and ſheep; for preventing whereof the
faids James and John Grahams, with and under the conditions, provi-
fions, and for the caufes after ſpecified, hereby bind and oblige them,
conjunctly and ſeverally, their heirs, executors, and fucceffors, that the
faid James Grahame hall keep the lands fubfcribed for, and annexed to
the reſpective ſubſcriptions, fkaithlefs of any lofs, to be fuftained by the
heritors, tenants, or inhabitants thereof, through the ftealing and away
taking of their cattle, horſes, or fheep, and that for the space of feven years
complete, from and after the term of Whitſunday next to come; and for
that effect, either to return the cattle fo ftolen from time to time, or other-
wayes, within 6 moneths after the theft committed, to make payment to the
perfons from whom they were ftolen, of their true value, to be ascertained.
by the oaths of the owners, before any Judge-ordinary; providing al-
ways, that intimation be made to the faid James Graham, at his houſe in
Correilet, or where he ſhall happen to reſide for the time, of the num-
ber and marks of the cattle, fheep, or horfe ftolen, and that within 48
hours from the time that the proprietors thereof shall be able to prove
by hable witneffes, or their own or their herds oaths, that the cattle a-
miffing were feen upon their ufual paſture within the fpace of 48 hours
previous to the intimation, as faid is; and declaring, that it shall be fuf-
ficient if the heritors or tenants, be-fouth or be-eaſt the town of Drymen,
make intimation in writing at the houſe of Archibald Strang, merchant
in Drymen, of their loffes in the before mentioned, to a perfon to be ap-
pointed by the faid James Graham of Glengyle to attend theire for that
purpoſe, and in his abfence to the ſaid Archibald. And further, it is
fpecially condefcended to and agreed upon, that the faid James Grahame
fhall not be bound for reftitution in cafes of fmall pickereys; declaring,
that an horse or black cattle ftolen within or without doors, or any num-
ber of ſheep above fix, fhall be conſtructed to be theft, and not pickerey.
And with regard to horfes and cattle ſtolen within the bounds aforefaid,
and carried to the fouth, the faid James Grahame obliges him, that he
ſhall be as ferviceable to the gentlemen ſubſcribers in that cafe as he
poffibly can; and if he cannot recover them, he fubmits himſelf to the
diſcretion of the heritors in whofe ground the theft is committed, whe-
ther he ſhall be liable for their value or not.
And it is hereby expressly provided and declared by both parties,
That in cafe of war within the country, that this prefent contract ſhall
thenceforth ceafe and become void; for the which cauſes, and on the
other
·
126
Statistical Account
other part, the heritors and tenants hereto ſubſcribing, with and under
the proviſions and declarations above and under written, bind and oblige
them, their heirs, executors, and fucceffors, to make payment to the ſaid
James Grahame of Glengyle, or to any perſon he ſhall appoint to receive
the fame, of the fum of L. 4 yearly during the ſpace forefaid, for ilk
hundred pound of ye valued rent of the lands annexed to their refpec-
tive fubfcriptions, and that at two terms in the year, Whitfunday and
Martinmas, by equal portions, beginning the firft terms payment thereof
at the ſaid term of Whitfunday nixt, for the half year immediately fol-
lowing, and fo furth, to continue at the faids terms during the conti-
nuance of theſe preſents: provideing always, like as is hereby ſpecially
provided and declared, that it fhall be leifome and lawful for both
parties to quitt and give up this prefent contract at the end of every year
if they think fit, intimation being always made on the part of the ſaid
James Grahame at the reſpective kirk-doors within the bounds aforesaid,
on a Sabbath day, immediately after the forenoon's fermon, a moneth be-
fore expiration of the year: and on the part of the heritors and other
fubfcribers, by a letter to the faid James Grahame from them, and ano-
ther from him, acknowledgeing the receipt thereof, or the atteſtation of
two wittneſſes, that the letter was left at his houſe, or was delyvered to
himſelf two moneths before expyring of the year; it being always under-
food, that any fubfcriber may quitt and give up the contract for his own
part, whether the reft concur or not at the end of each year, as faid is.
And both parties bind and oblidge them and their forefaids to perform
the premiffes hinc inde to others under the penalty of L. 20 Sterling, to
be payed by the party failzier to the party obferver, or willing to obſerve
their part thereof, attour performance. And moreover, for the ſaid James
Grahame's further encouragement, and for the better reflraining the
evil practices above mentioned, the fubfcribers hereby declare, that it is
their intention that all fuch thieves and pickers as fhall be apprehended
by the ſaid James Grahame of Glengyle, or occafionally by any other
perfon within the bounds aforefaid, against whom there is fufficient
proof, ſhall be profecute according to law, and brought to juſtice. And
for greater fecurity, both the faids parties confent to the regiſtration
hereof in the books of Council and Seffion, or others competent, that
letters of horning on fix dayes, and other executorials needfull, may paſs
hereon as effeirs. And to that effect they conſtitute
their procurators, &c. In witneſs whereof, both the faids parties have fub-
fcribed theſe preſents, confifting of this and the preceding ſheet, writ.
ten on ftamped paper, by Andrew Dick, chyrurgeon in Drymen, at Bal-
glas,
5
127
of Killearn..
1
glas, the tuentyeth day of Aprile Im vije and fourty-one years, by Robert
Bontein of Mildovan, before William M'Lea his fervant, and Mr Wil-
liam Johnſton ſchoolmaſter at Balglas, the faid Robert Bontein having
filled up his first date, and witneffes names and defignations. At Balli-
kinrain the tuintie-first day of forefaid moneth and year, by James Napier
of Ballikinrain, before Alexander Yuill his fervant, and Gibert Couan,
tenant in Ballikin rain, the ſaid James Napier having filled up this fecond
date, witneſſes names and defignations. Att Boquhan the tuenty-ſecond
day of Aprile, moneth forfaid, and year, by Hugh Buchanan of Balquhan,
before theſe witneffes, John Paterfon and Robert Duncan, both tenants
yr. Att Glins, the tuenty-feventh day of moneth and year forefaid, be-
fore theſe witnefes, Walter Monteath of Keyp, and John Buchanan
younger of Glins.
Att Eafter Glins, the twenty-feventh day of moneth
and year forefaid, before theſe witneffes, Walter Monteath of Keyp, and
Thomas Wright younger of Eaſter Glins, fubfcribet be Alexander Wright
of Peufid. Att Ammere, the first day of Mey feventin hundred and
fortie-one years, befor thees witnes, Arbelt Leckie of Arnmere, and
Walter Menteath younger of Keyp, Walter Monteath, att above place,
day, date, year, and witneffes, by James Key portioner of Edenbelly,
month, date, place, and year aforefaid, before theſe witneffes, Walter
Monteath therein, and Walter Monteith younger of Keyp, and by Ro-
bert Galbraith at Fintrie, fourth May, before Robert Farrie of Balgro.
ehan, and James Ure, tenant in Hilltowne of Balgair.
Will. Johnſton, witneſs.
William M'Lea, witnefs.
Gilbert Cowan, witness.
Alexander Yuill, witnefs.
John Paterfon, witneſs.
Robert Duncan, witness.
Walter Monteath, witneſs.
John Buchanan, witneſs.
Thomas Wright, witneſs.
Archibald Leckie, witness.
Walter Monteith, witneſs.
Alexander Wright, witnefs.
Archibald Leckie, witnefs.
Walter Monteath, witneſs.
Walter Monteath, witneſs.
Robert Farrie, witneſs.
and
Robert Bontein of Mildovan, for my
lands of Balglas in the paroch of
Killern, being Three hundred and
fifty pound of valuation;
lands of Provanſtoun, in the pa-
roch of Balfron, Ninety-feven
pound feven fhilling valuation.
James Napier of Ballikinrain, for
my lands in the paroch of Killern.
being Two hundred and fixtie
pound of valuation. And for my
Lord Napier's lands in faid pa-
roch, being Three hundred and
twentie-eight pound of valuation.
And for Culcreuch's lands in the
paroch of Fintrie, being Seven
James
;
2
128
Statistical Account
James Ure, witneſs.
John Buchanan, witneſs.
James M'Grime, witneſs.
1
hundred and twentie feven pound
of valuation. And for faid Cul-
creuch's lands, in the paroch of
Balfrone, being One hundred and
ten pound of valuation.
Hu. Buchanan of Balquhan, for my
lands of Boughan and Brunſhogle,
in the paroch of Killearn, being
One hundred and feventy-three
pound of valuation.
Mofes Buchanan of Glins, Two
hunder fextie-two pund valuation.
John Wright of Efter Glins, Sixtie-
fix pound val.
Alexander Wright of Pufide, On
hundred and foure pound and fix
filing and eghtpenny Scot va-
luation.
Walter Monteath of Kyp, Three
hundred pounds valuation.
James Key, portioner of Enblioy,
for fextiey-fix pond Scots valu-
ation.
Robert Galbraith, portioner of Edin-
bely, for thritie-three pound Scots
valuation.
Alexander Buchanan of Cremanan,
for my land of Cremanan, in the
paroch of Balfron, and
being Two hundred and fixty-
eight pound of valuation.
And the faids James and John Grahames have fubfcribed theſe pre-
fents at Buchanan, the eleventh of June Iaj vij and fourty-one years, be-
fore David Græme of Orchill, and John Smith writer in Buchanan : De-
clareing, that notwithſtanding of the date of the faids James and John
Grahame's fubfcription, yet it ſhall be underſtood, that the obligations
on both partys by this contract ſhall and do commence from Whitsunday
Taj vij and fourty-one, in regard it was agreed betwixt the partys, that
the faids obligations fhould commence at that term. The date, wit
neffe*
$
}
of Killearn.
129
{
neffes names and defignations, with this declaration, being wrote by the
faid John Smith, and declared to be part of this contract.
Da Græme, witneſs.
John Smith, witnefs.
Ja. Grahame.
John Graham.
It would appear, from the following letter, that this contract was
not diſadvantageous to Mr Grahame :
Sir,
Balikinrain, May 25 1743.
Notwithſtanding of the contract entered into betwixt feveral gentlemen
of the ſhyres of Stirling and Dumbarton, you, and I, annent keeping of a
watch, whereby you was to pay yearly four per cent. of valuation; yet I
now agree with you for three per cent. for the lands you have contracted
for; and that for the first term of Whitfunday, and in time comeing du-
ring the ſtanding of the contract. And I am, Sir, your most humble
fervant,
JA. GRAHAME.
Leaving the reader to make what reflections on this curious contract
he pleaſes, I ſhall only obſerve, that Mr Grahame, in this affair, is to be
conſidered as a more ſucceſsful keeper of the peace, defender of juſtice,
and guaranteeing power, than moſt who have affumed theſe characters;
for by his activity and vigilance, in a few years, justice, honefty and
peace were, in this part of the country, established on a firm and laſting
foundation, and continue to operate without the aid of contracts,
watches, or guarantees.
VOL. XVI.
R
NUM-
!
130
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER VI.
PARISH OF NEWBURN,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF FIFE, PRESBYTERY OF
ST ANDREW's.
By the Rev. Mr LAWRIE, Minifter.
THE
Extent, Situation, Surface.
HE parish of Newburn, is, on an average, about 31
Engliſh miles long, and 2 broad, is fituated in the
Preſbytery of St Andrew's, and Synod of Fife, bounded
on the E. by Kilconquhar; on the W. by Largo; by
part of both thefe parishes on the N. and on the S. by the
fea. The foil in general is very fertile, and produces ex-
cellent crops. Almoſt the whole land in the parish is
arable and inclofed. The late Mr Craigie of Lawhill
(now Hall-hill) began inclofing, and the farmers feem fully
convinced of its advantages. Wheat grew here more than
half a century ago; but a far greater quantity is raiſed
now than before. Turnips and potatoes were introduced
many years ago likewiſe; but the former, owing to the
natural
of Newburn.
131
natural fertility of the foil, and the improved ſtate of agri-
culture, have been cultivated with remarkable fuccefs. The
luxuriant turnip-crops in this diftrict in favourable feafons,
might arreſt the attention of the traveller, who has vifited
more fortunate climes.
Population and State of the Poor.-The population in
1755 was 438 fouls. The number of fouls was found by
the minifter, in the courfe of his parochial vifitation in
April 1794, to amount exactly to 456. From a recent
enumeration it appeared, that the inhabitants under 10
years of age were 142. The annual average of births for
the laſt 10 years appears from the regiſter to be 12. The
annual average of marriages is 3, and that of deaths 6.
Though the climate is favourable to longevity, and epi-
demical distempers feldom prevail, infection is communi-
cated when any malignant diſeaſe does appear, by the
common people reforting from all quarters to the apart-
ments of the fick, without adopting any means which
would tend to prevent its diffufion. Far be it from any
Chriſtian to diſcourage innocent expreffions of friendſhip
to the diftreffed; yet the attendance of many idle vifi-
tors on the fick is extremely culpable. They not only
hurt them in ſeveral refpects, but alſo endanger their own
lives, and thoſe of their neighbours. On theſe accounts, the
indiſcriminate practice of viſiting the fick, whether it pro-
ceeds from an impertinent curiofity, or a miſtaken principle
of benevolence, is often attended with the moſt fatal effects.
But wherever prejudice or cuftom, in ſpite of falutary re-
monftrance, leads "every one to do that which is right in
"one's own eyes," many of confequence will do wrong.
The number of poor perfons on the parish-roll is feven,
who are fupported by the collections on Sunday, and the
intereft
132
Statiſtical Account
intereſt of a confiderable fum of money appropriated to
them. The relief granted to each individual varies ac-
cording to the circumstances of the cafe. Befide their
ftated allowance, occafional fupply is given where it is
judged neceff.ry. The poor are maintained in their own
houſes; and, on an average, the annual fum expended for
their ſupport, may be about L. 13 Sterling. But relief is
not confined to theſe penfioners alone. The eſtabliſhed
provifion for the benefit of the indigent, enables the church-
feffion to extend their charity and receive the applications
of fa nilies who are reduced to the neceffity of foliciting
affittance, in confequence of accidental misfortunes. Church-
feffions are generally allowed to be the moft faithful admi-
niſtrators of the funds for the maintenance of the poor;
and indeed, their judicious arrangements have merited the
approbation of the moft enlightened part of the commu-
nity.
Ecclefiaftical State of the Pariſh.-It has been often re-
marked, that Newburn, for many years paft, has been a
nurſery of Seceders; and remarked with ſurpriſe, that a
fmall arm of the fea fhould be the boundary between mo-
deration and fanaticifm. Cameronians, Independents, per-
fons belonging to the Burgher Congregation, and alfo to
what is called the Relief Congregation, are to be found.
here. The number of Independents is about 20. They
are the only fect who have a place of meeting for public.
worſhip in the parish. The members of the Relief Con-
gregation are about the fame number; the Burghers a-
mount to 12; and the number of Cameronians is confined
to two. It is pleafing, however, to a philofophic and a
pious mind to perceive, that the intolerant party-ſpirit
which has too often characterized fectaries, is far lefs pre-
valent
+
of Newburn.
133
valent than in former times. Diverſity of religious fenti-
ments does not prevent focial intercourſe, and mutual good
offices.
In defcribing the general character of the people, it is
but juftice to pronounce them fober, regular, induftrious.
Humanity, too, it muſt be mentioned to their honour,
holds a confpicuous place in the catalogue of their virtues.
It is but juſtice alfo to add, that of late no addition has
been made to the number of Seceders in this parish;
on the contrary, one of the elders of the Relief Congre-
gation has returned to the Eſtabliſhed Church: rational
religion feems to be gaining ground; and the ſmall re-
mainder of enthufiafm will moft probably die with them
who cheriſh it.
The patronefs of the parish is Mrs Halket Craigie of
Hall-hill. There are 7 heritors; at prefent only 3 of them
refide in the parish. The benefice here is one of thoſe
which greatly requires increaſe; and a proceſs of augmen-
tation is about to be commenced. The money-ftipend at
prefent is L. 40: II: Sterling, and the victual ſtipend
confifts only of 7 bolls of wheat, 32 bolls 1 peck of bear,
and 24 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks of oats. The glebe ſcarcely
includes 4 acres. The victual ſtipend, at an average, is
but L. 40 Sterling per annum, as part of the lands which
pay stipend are of an inferior quality.
School. The parochial ſchool is of confiderable repute.
Several gentlemen's fons refort to it for education, which
they receive on very moderate terms. English is taught
for 1 s. 6 d.; writing and English for 2 s.; arithmetic for
2 s. 6 d.; and Latin for 2 s. 6d. per quarter. The local
fituation is eligible in two reſpects: It is favourable both
६० their health and their morals. The air is falubrious ;
and
134
Statiſtical Account
and the youth are not expofed to the contagion of thofe
vices which unhappily prevail in large towns.
About the middle of the laſt century, John Wood, Efq;
proprietor of the lands of Orkie, deſtined that property
after his death for erecting a free grammar fchool in the
parish of Drumelry, alias Newburn, and maintaining fix
poor ſcholars thereat. The rent of theſe lands is now
about L. 140 Sterling per annum, and the parochial
ſchoolmaſter educates and maintains the poor fcholars on
Mr Wood's mortification, as it is called in Scottiſh law
language; for he officiates in a double capacity, being
choſen both by the heritors and the patrons of the mor-
tification already mentioned. By the deed, Sir Thomas
Gourlay of Kincraig,' &c. the minifter of Newburn,'
c. and their fucceffors whatfomever, are appointed
lawful, undoubted patrons of the foundation and mor-
⚫tification in all time coming.' Boys of the firname of
Wood are always to have a preference.
C.
6
،
Price of Labour and Provifions.-The yearly wages of
farm-fervants is about L. 7 for men, and L. 3 for women,
befide their victuals. The wages of the day-labourer is
I S.; in time of harveſt they are rather higher; for mow-
ing hay he gets, per day, Is. 6d. The day wages of a
maſon is from 1 s. 6 d. to 2 s.; of a tailor Is. when he
furniſhes provifions to himſelf; and when victuals are pro-
vided for him, 6 d.
The average price of beef is 31 d. per lb.; of veal, 3 d.;
and of mutton the fame. The price of a hen, at an average,
is I s.; of a duck, 9 d.; of a pig fit for table, 5 s. Butter
is about 8 d. per lb. But the price of labour and provi-
fions, in general, is more than doubled within theſe 30
years.
Improvements
of Newburn.
135
Improvements fuggefted.-Befides putting the roads in
better repair, the eſtabliſhment of a more regular market
would alſo be a very confiderable advantage in this part of
the country. Another diſadvantage, under which not
only this, but the adjacent parishes labour, is the weight
of bread being left entirely to the will of the baker.
Wherever this is the cafe, the confumer is liable to fuf-
fer lofs; and the very exemption from any regulation on
this point is a temptation to injuftice. A remedy cer-
tainly exiſts ſomewhere, and it ought to be ſpeedily ap-
plied. To remove the local inconvenience complained of,
or rather the general evil, might not the bread be occa-
fionally inspected by fome proper perſon appointed for that
purpoſe by the juftices of the peace? And wherever the
weight is found deficient, let the bread be given to the
poor. The very idea of being fubject to the juriſdiction of
the juſtices of peace, or of feeling the confequences of the
complaints lodged with them, would operate as a powerful
reſtraint on men who have it in their power to impoſe
both on the rich and the poor, it is faid, by charging what
they chufe for a loaf, which might be purchaſed in other
places, where there is a check and controuling power over
bakers, for a far more reaſonable price. While fome of
the people complain of imaginary grievances under the
happy conſtitution where they live, it is hoped the real
one now ſpecified will be removed as foon as it is poſſible.
Antiquities.-There are veftiges of the eaſt part of the
church having been a Roman Catholic chapel.
If we may give credit to the records and traditions
which have been tranfmitted to us of that early period, the
Culdees, who are thought to have been the firſt regular
clergy in Scotland, had a church and refidence in this pariſh
3
fo
136
Statistical Account
!
fo early as the time of Malcolm Canmore. The earlieſt re
cords which we have of theſe monks mention Hungus the
firſt King of the Picts, as their Great Benefactor; and St
Andrew's, or its neighbourhood, as their chief refidence.
Brude, the laſt King of the Picts, made a donation to them
of the ile of Lochleven; Kirkneſs was given to them by
M'Beth, fon of Finlay; and their Majefties King Malcolm,
and his Queen St Margaret, granted to them the village
of Balchriftie*, (or, as it has been interpreted by fome,
the Town of Chriftian), in this parish. The preſent pro-
prietor of the village (Mr Chriftie of Balchriftie) informs
me, that ſome years ago he dug up the foundation-ſtones
of an old edifice near the weſtern wall of his garden, and
in the very place where, according to the beſt accounts,
the church of the Culdees ſtood. Some fay, this was the
firſt Chriſtian church in Scotland; and, indeed, the name
of Balchriſtie, as above explained, and the high probability
of the Culdees landing first on the adjacent inviting fhore,
give confiderable countenance to the tradition.
Additional Obfervations.-This fituation has been long
admired for variegated ſcenery and an extenfive view.
The ſcene now before me, confifting of woods and waters,
and hills and dales, is fuch as the writer of romance might
have delighted to feign. Hall-bill at prefent appears in
ruins; but a new manfion-houſe, as is believed, will foon
add to the beauty of theſe rural wilds. Ha latebra dulces
etiam, fi credas amana. The gentlemen are elegantly
lodged themſelves; and their tenants have far better farm-
houſes than in former times. All ranks, indeed, feem to
participate
* Vide Guthrie's Hiftory of Scotland, and the authorities to which he
refers.
of Newburn.
137
participate more of the comforts and conveniencies of life.
than their fathers-more than many of themſelves did in
the days that are paft. From the communications of the
clergy, this feems to be the cafe through all the land,
which is one proof, among many others, that might be
produced, of the futility and the falfehood of thoſe com-
plaints which fome malcontents have been pleaſed to ad-
vance againſt the government of Great Britain. But the
period has now fortunately arrived when, in confequence
of the vigilance of a vigorous adminiſtration, and the good
ſenſe of an enlightened people, Britain is faved, and Vil-
lany, it is prefumed, will no longer dare to addreſs Igno-
rance; the period has now fortunately arrived, when the
eye of loyalty is gladdened to fee, that they who had
flocked to the ſtandard of fedition are ſcattered: Yes!
the auſpicious period has arrived, when the Genius of our
favoured iſle, in all her native majeſty and magnanimity,
can proclaim: My children abhor the fanguinary fac-
They difavow their principles, and de-
"teſt their practice. Principles fo baſe they leave for miſ-
"creants to teach, and madmen to believe. The feaſon of
"delufion is paſt, and Britons love their native land. Many
"wanderers have returned to the Houfe of their Fathers."
66
"tions of France.
1
VOL. XVI.
*
میں
NUM-
138
Statiſtical Account
t
NUMBER VII.
PARISH OF PORTREE,
ANCIENTLY KILTARAGLAW,
(COUNTY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF GLENELG, AND
PRESBYTERY OF SKY.)
By Mr ALEXANDER CAMPBELL, Schoolmaster, Portree.
PORTREE
Name, Situation, Extent, c.
ORTREE was a part of Snizort till the year 1726,
when it was erected into a ſeparate pariſh; and is fo
called from its excellent harbour of the fame name. Port-
ree, or rather Port a Rio, (the King's Harbour), is a Gaelic
word, compounded of Port, an Harbour, and Rio, a King.
This name was probably given to it as far back as the
thirteenth century, in the reign of Alexander III. of Scot-
land, when Haco, King of Norway, after his dreadful over-
throw at the Largs by Alexander Stuart, great-grandfather
of him, who, the firft of that name, reigned in Scotland,
put in there with the remains of his fhipwrecked fleet; or,
as fome would have it, not till the times of James V. in
confequence
of Portree.
139
confequence of that monarch's putting in there, in his tour
through the Hebrides. It is fituated in the prefbytery of
Sky, Synod of Glenelg, and County of Inverneſs. Its
length from N. to S. is 9 computed miles, and its breadth.
throughout 3, befides the iſlands of Raafay and Ronay, that
form a great part of it; the former of which, extending
all along the coaſt, is of the ſame length, and from 3 to 1
miles broad. Ronay is about 4 miles long, and near 2
broad; and the whole pariſh may contain an area of 41,900
fquare acres. It is bounded on the N. by Snizort; on the
E. by the channel or found that divides Raaſay and Ronay
from Applecrofs and Gairloch; on the S. by Strath; and
on the W. by an extenfive moor that feparates it from
Bracadale.
The variety of its hills, vallies, and plains, and the pro-
ſpect of the Sound, which, excepting in fome places on the
coaft, where it opens to the view, prefents itſelf in the like-
neſs of lochs or lakes, give the country a very agreeable
and pictureſque appearance, particularly in the milder fea-
fons of the year; and throughout this part of the High-
lands, fcarcely any two places can boaſt of fituations more
beautiful and pleaſant, than the place of Portree and Cla-
chan, or Kirktown, in the fouth end of Raafay, the pro-
prietor's feat. On the W. Raafay rifes with a feemingly
eaſy aſcent, to a great height above the ſea, and terminates
in a ſmall, round, and green hill, flat at the top, and faced
with rock, called Dun-lan, from its fimilarity, perhaps, at a
diſtance, to theſe Danish forts, that go under the general
name of Dunes, fo frequent in the Highlands and iflands;
the meaning of the laſt part of the name is not certainly
known. On the E. fide of the island, the coaft is very
high, ſteep, and nearly approaching to a perpendicular; as
is alſo the coaſt of Portree, on each fide the mouth of the
harbour; but more eſpecially on the N. where huge cliffs
1
A
140
Statiſtical Account
of ftupendous height, and magnificently grand, rife one
above another *. At the bottom of thefe rocks above the
ſhore, for more than 1-4th of a mile in length, is a decli-
vity which, though fteep, of difficult accefs, and every
where interfperfed with large loofe ftones that fall from
the cliffs above, yields fuch excellent pafture, that the gen-
tleman who poffeffes the farm to which it belongs, at the
riſk of lofing fome of them over the precipices, fends there
every fummer a part even of his milk cows. Here as well
as over all Sky, from the height of the hills and proximity
of the ſea, the air ſeldom continues long of the ſame tem-
perature; fometimes it is dry, oftener moift, and in the
latter end of winter and beginning of ſpring, cold and pier-
cing; at an average, three days in twelve throughout the
year, fcarcely free from rain, far lefs from clouds. Thefe,
attracted by the hills, fometimes break in uſeful and refreſh-
ing fhowers; at other times fuddenly burfting, pour down
their contents with tremendous noiſe, in impetuous torrents
that deluge the plains below, and render the ſmalleſt rivu-
let impaffable; which, together with the ftormy winds fo
common in this country, in the months of Auguſt and
September, frequently blaſt the hopes, and diſappoint the
expectations of the hufbandman. Snow has been often
known to lie on the ground from three to feven weeks;
and on the higheſt hills, even in the middle of June, fome
ſpots of it are to be feen. To this various temperature of
the air, and uncertainty of weather, the fevers and agues,
headachs, rheumatifms, colds, and dyfenteries, which are
the prevalent diftempers, may be afcribed. That it is far,
however,
The entrance to the loch on the north fide, prefents a cragg refem-
bling Salisbury Craig, and is called Nicolfon's rock, from the family
which inhabits the farm, who are faid to have occupied it fince the time
of the Danes.
of Portree.
141
however, from being unwholfome, is fufficiently evinced
by experience; for the inhabitants are, in general, as ſtrong
and healthy, and arrive at as advanced an age, as thoſe who
live in milder climates, and under a ferener ſky. The
gout is not known as a diftemper affecting the inhabitants.
Hills, Woods, Lakes, and Rivers.-The moft remarkable
hill in the pariſh, is that which, W. S. W. of the harbour,
rifes above it, firft, with an eafy and gentle acclivity, but
becomes ſteeper nearer the top. It is called Ait Suidhe
Thuin, or Fingal's fitting place, becauſe on the top of it is
a green hillock, on which, fays tradition, Fingal was wont
to fit in ſtate, point out the different courſes, and ſurvey
his heroes purſuing the chace. From this hillock, in a
clear day, the lofty hills of Cuillin and Strath, the pariſhes
of Duiriniſh and Bracadale, the Long Iſland, North and
South Uift, and Barra may be feen; as likewiſe the weſt
fide of Troterniſh, Portree, Raafay, Applecrofs, Loch-
Carron, and the interjacent feas. The fides of the hill are
covered with feveral farms of different fizes; and, except
in fome places N. and S. and towards the top, which is
either rocky, or covered with heath, the whole is good pa-
ſture or arable ground. Nearly oppofite to this hill, at a
mile's diſtance, S. E. of the harbour, rifes Bein-Dean-a-
bhaig, or the hill of his defence, having alfo on its top a
green hillock, called Cruachan Mhic Swain, (Macfwain's
eminence), remarkable only for its fimilarity to that on
the top of Ait Suidhe Thuin, excepting the tradition, that
a fon of Swain, or Sueno, a Danish or Norwegian king, lies
buried there, may be thought deferving of notice. On the
fide of Bein-Dian-a-bbaig, that looks towards Raafay, and
which is extremely ſteep, rifes a number of rocks of coni-
cal form, green at their tops, or covered with heath; be-
tween
2
142
Statiſtical Account
tween theſe rocks run fmall hollow vales, where sheep and
goat find paſture; and at the bottom of the hill, on the
fame fide, are feveral caves in which fea fowl and wild
pigeons neſtle, and into fome of which the fea, at high
water, enters. The hill itſelf, on account of its height and
peculiar form, is an infallible mark of the fituation and
place of the harbour. On the flopes of Ait Suidhe Thuin,
N. W. from the harbour, are to be ſeen the remains of a
natural wood, confifting chiefly of birch and alder, which
about 20 years ago, it is faid, was in a tolerable good con-
dition, but is now much decayed. About 30 years ago,
fome firs were planted on the farm of Scorribreæ, north fide
of the entry to Portree; but, on account of its easterly ex-
poſure, and the fea air, they did not thrive well. No more
than 500 or 600 trees, well fheltered, have arrived at any
degree of perfection. In Raafay, there are two or three
fpots of natural wood, which, being ufually well kept, are
of no fmall ufe to the inhabitants and their neighbours,
and of confiderable emolument to the proprietor. The
late Raafay planted feveral ſpots near his houfe, of which
the parts better ſheltered have done well; thofe more ex-
poſed have thriven but indifferently.
There are many freſh water lochs, of which two only
are worthy of notice, Loch-fad and Loch-leathan, or the
Long Loch and Broad Loch, one of them being long, and
the other ſhorter, but much broader. They are in the
north end of the parish, very highly fituated, of confider-
able extent, and contain great plenty of white and red
trout, founder, and eel. The trout of Loch-leathen are in
general very large, fome of them weighing from 1 to 2,
or 2 lb. They have no communication with the fea, but
one from Loch-leathen, over a very high and extraordinary
fteep precipice, which forms a fingular and curious cafcade,
that from the ſea below appears beautiful and grand be-
yond
of Portree.
143
k
#
yond defcription. The moft confiderable rivers are thoſe
of Higichan and Glenbbargil, which fcarcely deſerve to be
mentioned, but for the falmon caught in them in autumn
and the latter end of fummer. The former, formed by
many ſtreams rifing in the hills of Cuillin and Strath, run
through a glen that divides Mingnifh in Bracadale from
the fouth end of Portree, and difcharges itſelf into an inlet.
of the fea, called Loch-fligichan, two miles weft of Sconfer.
Having no bridge, in times of heavy rains the ſtream is fo
violent and impetuous, that travellers dare not approach it.
The latter derives its fource from feveral fmali lochs in
the moor N. W. of Higiedan, and after haviug run 2 miles
through it, continues its courfe further for a mile and a
half along the valley at the foot of Ait Suidhe Thuin into
Portree Loch.
Antiquities and Curiofities.-There are two Dunes, or
Daniſh forts, of round form, that bear marks of a very
high antiquity; one old caſtle, formerly the feat of the
Lairds of Raafay; and two Roman Catholic chapels. One
of the dunes is fituated on the coaft; the other, inland. Of
this laft, fcarcely 6 feet above the foundation remain, and
within it is full of rubbish; the other is in a more entire
ſtate, and, like moſt of the fame kind in the Highlands and
iſlands, ſeem to have been built by the Danish or Norwe
gian invaders, rather as watch towers and ſtrong holds, to
receive and ſecure their plunder, than as places of conſtant
or comfortable habitation. Castle Broichin, fituated near
the north end of Raaſay, on the eaſt coaſt, is a land-mark
well known to mariners. The rock on which it ftands,
nearly round, and covering an area of little more than 70
feet fquare, is about 40 feet high, except in one place,
where was the ftair that led to it; and is itſelf, caftle-like,
placed on another rock, 60 feet at leaſt above the level of
the
:
144
Statiſtical Account
}
the fea. It is compofed of different kinds of burnt ftones
lime, and ſhell, that have all the appearance of being jum-
bled together, fome time or other, by a volcanic eruption,
and is of ſuch firm and folid confiftence, that the largeſt
hammer, wielded by the ſtrongeſt arm, could ſcarcely
make any impreffion upon it. There are feveral rocks of
the fame kind in that part of the ifland; one of which,
more curious than the reſt, riſes higher than that on which
the caſtle ſtands, cloſe by it, like an old and ruinous wall,
from 5 to 8 feet broad, and 40 long, and in moſt places it
is covered with ivy. This curious rock, on account of its
ruinous and decayed appearance, was called Broichin, and
from it the caſtle got its name. The caftle was built with
ftone and lime, is two storeys high, befides an attic one;
the rooms are all very ſmall, except one, fuppofed to be
the kitchen, and two others, about 11 feet fquare, and as
many high, in which are chimneys. In the middle was a
ſmall open court, in which was a well, but whether fup-
plied with water from a fountain in the hill above, or from
the rock itſelf, is not known. It is not long fince the
laft part of the roof came down, and fome broken joifts
ftill remain ſticking out in the fides of fome of the rooms.
John Garbh is faid to be the laſt who dwelled in it. This
John Garbh was one of the predeceffors of the pre-
fent Laird of Raafay, and lived in the times of James VI.
of Scotland. He was remarkably ftout and athletic, of
extraordinary perſonal ſtrength and valour, and therefore
was furnamed Garbh, a word which is expreffive of lufti-
nefs and ablenefs of body. Many are the ftories related
regarding his acts of prowess and fortitude, as likewiſe of
feverals of his countrymen, who are faid to have been in
general of more than ordinary fize and ſtoutneſs, but border-
ing rather on the marvellous, feem not altogether worthy
of much credit.
With
1
:
•
of Portree.
145.
With regard to the Roman Catholic chapels, no man
alive remembers to have feen any of them with a roof
on them; the walls are pretty entire. One of them is in
Kirktown in Raafay, and is furrounded with a plantation of
trees. In one of its windows are the bones of a man, ama-
zingly large, preſerved by the inhabitants with a kind of
religious care, as a monument of the great ftrength and
fize of their forefathers, though the prefent generation is
in theſe reſpects but little fuperior to their neighbours.
For the fame reaſon they fhew, about the middle of the
iſland, near the high road, a large round ftone, which they
fay John Garbh, the forefaid chief, and one or two of his
people, uſed to lift on their knees: Such is its weight, that
ſcarcely could the united ſtrength of two of the ſtouteſt men
now to be found in the country be able to raiſe it one inch
from the ground. On the right hand, coming into Portree
between the towering cliffs above mentioned, and where
the fir was fome time ago unfuccefsfully planted, is a high-
rock, washed at the foot in fome places by the fea; on the
top of this rock is a beautiful plain, confifting of near 4
acres of good arable ground; and above it is a fleep decli-
vity, almoſt equally high with the rock below. Near the
weft end of this plain is the other Roman Catholic chapel
formerly mentioned; and there, before Portree was erected
into a ſeparate parish, and fome time afterwards, was the
only burying ground in this end of the barony of Troter-
niſh; but now, on account of its retired fituation, it is al-
moſt entirely given up, a new place of interment being
marked out at the church of Portree, about 45 years ago,
where the whole people have at length begun to bury their
dead. Down through the declivity two oblique paths
were made to the plain and chapel; and two others lead
from the fhore, one at each end of the rock below. In
different parts of the plain are fprings of excellent water;
VOL. XVI.
T
and
་
146
Statifical Account
:
and at the bottom of a rock, near the top of the declivity
above, is a cave, fuppofed to be very deep, into which, far-
ther than 12 yards, few have ever thought proper to enter.
Near 15 yards within its mouth it becomes darker, and
begins to defcend; if a stone be thrown down here, it is
for fome time heard to make a kind of rattling noiſe, as if
it were tumbling down a ftone ftair, to the found of which
the cave echoes extraordinary loud; but whether, when
the found feems to ceaſe, the ſtone reaches the bottom, or
the cave takes a different direction, cannot be determined.
About 1 mile from hence, along the fhore, down towards
the north, are two other caves that merit particular atten-
tion. One of them is extremely narrow without; but
within becomes very ſpacious and high; capable of con-
taining with eaſe at leaſt 500 perfons. Below its mouth,
up from high water mark to the level of the cave, the hol-
low rock is faced with a perpendicular wall, of large plain
ftone, about 12 feet high, having feveral fteps fo narrow,
that only one man can aſcend at a time. Within, the air
Freely circulates; in the middle is a well; and if they had
no fire arms, one man could eaſily defend the paffage
againſt a host of foes: fo that it feems to have been defign-
ed both by nature and art, as a place of fecure retreat,
though, if the tradition be true, it proved otherwiſe to one
party that retired to it for fafety. For the ftory goes, that
in the troubleſome and barbarous times, when the neigh-
bouring diſtricts plundered and deftroyed each other, and
the weak were always a prey to the ftrong, many often re-
treated to this cave as a place of concealment and fecurity.
At one time, however, they within, deeming themſelves,
froin their fituation, too fecure, were negligent in defend-
ing the paffage. Their enemies got intelligence they were
there, and furpriſing them in the night, filled the mouth of
the cave with timber and moift heath, and then fetting
fire
of Portree.
1:47.
•
2
ر
fire to it, allowed none to eſcape, but all were either fmo-
thered to death in their fleep, or miſerably periſhed in the
flames. In confirmation of this tradition, a man, not long
fince dead, found, about 60 years ago, a large braſs kettle
in a dark corner in the farther end of the cave, and bones
of different fizes are ſtill to be ſeen in it. It abounds in
ftalactites, which partly hang from the arch above, and
partly fall down; many of them having feveral holes
through and through, and are great curiofities. The other
cave is not far diftant, and is ſuppoſed to be ſeveral miles
deep. It is faid of this cave, that, a very long time paſt,
a piper, and four other men, with two maſtiffs and lighted
candles, went in to it for the purpoſe of inveftigation, and
to find its depth; but that none of them returned to give.
any information regarding it. The piper, fays the ſtory,
was heard at Loch-fad, (more than a mile diftant), playing
a tune, purporting, that the candles went out, his compa-
nions were loft, and himſelf never returned. This is not
the only cave in Sky, concerning which fuch ftories are
told; but with what degree of credit they ſhould be recei
ved, every man may judge for himſelf. Among the num-
ber of natural curiofities may juftly be reckoned the caf-
cade above mentioned. The ftream from Loch-leithan,
which, in that part, is the boundary between the eaft fide
of Snizort and this parish, running over a very high pre-
cipice, as already obſerved, and breaking, in white foam,
on the top of another rock below, forms a fall of water
beautiful and magnificent in the extreme. Within the
caſcade the rock is gradually hollowed, almoft from the top,
into a wide ſpace, where a great number of men might,
with eafe, fit round a table, without being in the leaf in-
commoded by the water falling without To this place,
till of late, an eafy path led through the declivity on each
fide, but now fuch quantities of loofe earth and gravel fall
from
148
Statistical Account
i
from above, that it is rather of difficult accefs, more parti-
cularly on the ſouth fide.
Birds, and other Sea and Land Animals.-Here are no
wild or domeftic animals which are not common to the
neighbouring parishes. The wild birds of all forts moſt
common in the country are, Solan geefe, gulls, cormorants,
cranes, wild geeſe, and wild duck; eagles, crows, ravens,
rooks, cuckoos, rails, woodcocks, moor-fowl, partridges,
plover, wild pigeons, and blackbirds, owls, hawks, fnipes,
and a variety of ſmall birds. In mild ſeaſons, the cuckoo
and rail appear in the latter end of April; the former dif
appears always before the end of June; the latter fome-
times not till September. The woodcock comes firſt in
October, and frequently remains till March. The tame
forts of fowl are geefe, ducks, turkies, cocks, pullets, and
tame pigeons. Of quadrupeds, there are black cattle, hor-
fes, ſheep, goats, dogs, cats, rats, and mice. The total
number of black cattle, from one year old and upwards, is
1954; of horſes, 362; of sheep, 1828; of goats, 156.
There are likewiſe a few red deer; and the fox ufually
makes havoc among the fheep. There is no fox-hunter in
this barony; but there is a certain fum collected yearly
with the rents, for fox-money, which, at the year's end, is
diſtributed among all that may be active to deſtroy that
hurtful animal, in proportion to the number they indivi-
dually kill. Two fpecies of ferpents are to be found in the
hills of this country, whofe bite, though not fatal, is very
venomous, attended with much pain and great fwelling, and
often confines the patient more than fix weeks to the houſe,
which probably would not be the cafe, if medical affiftance
were timeouſly called for. Some of them are met with
above 24 inches long. The one has yellow fpecks; the
other black, whofe bite is the most venomous, and, unleſs
properly
:
of Portree.
149
}
properly managed at firſt, is very dangerous. The head of
the ſerpent that inflicts the wound, mixed with certain
herbs, and applied to the parts that are moſt affected, is rec-
koned good to carry off the poifon, and abate the fwelling.
There have been inſtances of cattle wounded by them in
the tongue or lips that never recovered. Of amphibious
animals, feals and otters are frequent here; the value of
whoſe ſkins, as well as of the oil made of the fat of the ſeal,
is well known. Whales and cairbans, or fun-fiſh, come in
fometimes to the Sounds after their prey, but are rarely pur-
fued with any fuccefs. The fishes commonly caught on
the coaſt are herrings, ling, cod, ſcate, haddock, makerel,
lythe, fye, and dog-fiſh; this laſt is of little or no uſe for
food, unleſs among the poorer fort of people, but its liver
is of value on account of the excellent oil which is made
of it. The average price of ling at home is L. 13, 13 s.
per ton; when fold, one by one, if freſh, the price is
from 3 d. to 5 d.; if cured, from 5 d. to 7 d. The barrel
of herrings feldom fells under 19 s. which is owing to
the great difficulty of procuring falt, even fometimes at
any price; and the fame caufe very often hinders ma-
ny from fiſhing more than is fufficient for their own
ufe. The obvious method of remedying this, and which
would be attended with infinite advantage to the High-
lands and islands, is fo well known, and has been al-
ready ſo often fully and ably treated of by others, that
to enlarge upon it here would be fuperfluous. Syes under
one year old are called cuddies, and are caught in great
quantities in the latter end of harveſt, throughout the win-
ter, and beginning of fpring. There are two ways of fiſh-
ing the cuddie; the one is by means of a rod, from the
top of which, ſuſpended by a line confifting of half a dozen
hairs or threads in thickneſs, hangs a ſmall hook, on which
bait being artfully fixed, it is let down into the ſea; in
that manner an expert fiſher catches feveral hundreds in an
evening,
;
150
Statistical Account
evening. The beſt and moſt expeditious way of catching
the cuddie, when it is in greater plenty on the coaft, is with
a fort of creel, called jabb. The jabb commonly confifts
of three or four ftrong rods, from 8 to 10 feet long, laid
acroſs each other in the middle, and gently bent upwards,
till they are fixed at the ends to a large hoop, from four
to fix feet diameter, which forms its mouth: On the infide
it is all lined with a narrow net, made for the purpoſe to
retain the fish and to let out the water, tightly tied to
its ribs and mouth; and it has a long handle reaching its
bottom, where the rods crofs one another, and to which, and
to the mouth, it is well faſtened with a ſtrong cord. This
inftrument the fiſher, ſtanding on a rock, preffes down fide-
ways into the ſea, till the lower part of it reaches the bot-
tom, the mouth being nearly right above; then himſelf, or
an affiſtant, throwing out the bait in fmall bits over it, he
holds it firm in that poſition till it be all covered with cud-
dies, attracted by the bait, when he raiſes it up gently, and
often brings in many hundreds at a time. The fummer is
the beſt ſeaſon for the larger je, and the moſt common
method for fishing it then is this: A little before ſunſet
feveral perfons go out in a boat; two, three, or four of
whom fit in its ftern, each having a fiſhing-rod or two, fur-
niſhed with fine white or gray lines, and flies made of white
feathers, or hair on their hooks, which they hold out as far
as they can after the boat, while two more are rowing it
forwards; in this manner, till it becomes dark, they con-
tinue going backwards and forwards among the fiſh, which
always purfuing the fly, and endeavouring to fwallow it,
fix on the hooks in fuch quick fucceffion, as keep the fiſhers
often conftantly bufy in taking them in. Every farm on
the coaſt, of which there are 34 in this parish, has a boat
or two, and ſometimes the far greater number of theſe are
out in fearch the of fye in the fame evening.
Population,
R
of Portree.
151
Population, &c.—About 15 years ago, when the mini-
fter perfonally took the last lift of them, the number of
examinable perfons in this parish were 1248, of which 930
were in Portree, and 318 in Raafay. Since that time the
increaſe has been confiderable: After the exacteft inqui-
ry, the whole number of fouls appears to be 1980. There
being no pariſh regiſter, the births and deaths cannot be
well aſcertained; and as to marriages, they may be reckoned-
at an average 10 every year. Of perfons above 90 years old,
there are 2; between 70 and 90, 22. The number of wea-
vers in the parish is four; of weavereffes, 12. There are
2 blackſmiths, 5 carpenters, 8 tailors, and 3 fhoe or brog-
makers; but the generality of the people make their own
brogs. There may be reckoned fix petty merchants, be-
fides the innkeeper of Portree, with whom it has been al-
ways cuſtomary to keep a large affortment of hardwares,
grocery goods, and fundry other things neceffary for the
ufe of the country.
Although in the courſe of the feven laft years, feveral vef-
fels went from Sky to America with emigrants, very few
left this parish. The fubdivifion of lands, (a method gene-
rally prevailing), at the fame time that it makes the people
poorer, on account of their little progreſs in agricultural
improvements, evidently helps to increaſe the popula-
tion; and the preſervation of many lives is owing to the
practice of inoculating that now univerfally prevails.
Agriculture.-Portree, like the far greateſt part of this
ifland, is much lefs adapted by nature for agriculture than for
paſture, and ſeldom, unleſs in very good years, fupplies it-
ſelf with a fufficiency of provifions. Yet, though the foil is
not very fertile or rich, it might with proper management
be made to produce more plentiful crops. But the general
run of farmers are fo prejudiced in favour of old cuftoms,
and
:
152
Statistical Account
?
and indeed not much inclined to induſtry, that they will
not eafily be prevailed on to change them for the better;
eſpecially if the alteration or amendment propoſed be at-
tended with expence. Therefore, with refpect to improve-
ments in agriculture, they are ſtill much in the fame ſtatè as
they were 20 or 30 years ago. Ploughs, on a new and
improved model, that in comparifon to the advantages
derived from them, might be had at a moderate ex-
pence, have lately been introduced into feveral districts
around, where their good effects are manifeft, in impro-
ving the crops and diminiſhing the labour of man and
beaft; but the Laird of Raafay only, and one other gentle-
man in this parish, have yet ufed them. The cafcroim, a
crooked kind of ſpade, which being already well known,
requires no deſcription here, is almoſt the only inftrument
for labouring the ground uſed among the ordinary claſs of
tenants. Where the foil is very wet, or the ground rug-
ged and ſteep, no agricultural tool can be uſed with greater
propriety and advantage than the cafcroim; but, notwith-
ftanding, it employs, for the greateſt part of the ſpring, at
leaſt 2-5ths more labourers than would be neceffary, if
ploughs were uſed where the nature of the ground would
admit. Let it be hoped then, that this tireſome inſtrument
of vaſt unneceſſary toil and labour, will be foon laid afide,
except in thoſe places where the plough can be of no fervice.
Many hands would thereby be gained for improvements,
and other uſeful employments, to promote the public wel-
fare, and the ſtate of agriculture would be greatly melio-
rated. The moft effectual way for obtaining this defirable
end, it is fuppofed, would be to diftribute the farms capable
of being ploughed, into more equal and larger portions than
at preſent; for by this means, the mode now in practice of
dividing lands into fmall lots, in different proportions,
would be ſtopt; and every farmer, having always the ſame
field to manage, would naturally be more careful and
induſtrious
of Portree.
153
induſtrious to cultivate it to the beft advantage. In few or
no places is the tillage continued above three years in one
and the fame place; and to produce a tolerable good crop
the ground muſt be manured ſome one of theſe years; which
is done the firſt, fecond, or third, according to the nature
of the foil; before it is again tilled it lies fallow 3 or 4
years, and fometimes longer. The principal manure uſed
is the dung of houfed cattle, mixed with ftraw, and fome-
times with mud; and fea-weeds, caft in great quantities in
fome places, in the winter and ſpring, on the ſhore, and
which, of a certain kind called leathagan, or tangle, that is
very rarely manufactured into kelp, the people themſelves
cut during the ſpring tides, and carry to land in their boats.
The former is preſerved in large heaps till the time of lay-
ing it on the ground arrives, and is chiefly uſed for oats;
the latter for barley and potatoes. Sowing time ufually
commences about the 20th of March, and harveſt feldom
before the middle of September. Except a little barley,
fmall oats may be faid to be the only crop produced, and
potatoes the only ferviceable root. Of this last, there are
vast quantities grown annually, which, with herring and
other fish, are the chief food of the bulk of the inhabitants
for more than half the year.
Prices, Wages, &c.-Here, and in every other part of
the country, the prices of provifions were far lower about
30 and 40 years ago than at prefent. The old people fay,
that in their time the boll of meal fold for 6 merks Scots
the double stone of butter and cheefe, tron weight, for 6 s.
6 d. and other neceffaries in proportion. But thefe mat-
ters have fince undergone a vaft change; every article has
been increafing in value, and the difference of prices is now
fenfibly felt. Except in the parish of Kilmuir, and the
neareſt part to it of Snizort, little or no meal, the produce.
VOL. XVI.
U
of
154
Statistical Account
of the country, is at preſent any where fold; and there the
common price in ſpring is I s. per peck. Some fell their
butter and cheeſe at 17 s. the double ftone, and none under
14s. Cattle that formerly fetched only from L. I, 10 s. to
L. 2, 10 s. have fince fold for from L. 3 to L. 4, 10s. the
price of ſheep and weathers now varies from 4 s. to 6 s. and
of horſes from L. 2, 10 s. to 6 guineas. This difference of
prices may be accounted for from the increaſe of popula-
tion, and introduction of paper currency into the country;
the latter of which, occafioning the circulation of money in
greater plenty, helped to diminish its value.
Some fervants ſhoes juſt now coſt their maſters nearly as
much as their wages 20 or 30 years ago amounted to. The
cominon wages for men-fervants is from L. 2, 10 s. to L. 3,
10 s. and of overfeers from L. 3 to 5 guineas, befides their
ſhoes and maintenance, and fometimes the grafs of a cow,
and tillage of a little lands; when they have grafs, or any
tillage, their other wages is fomething lefs. A woman-
ſervant gets from 12 s. to 20 s. with fhoes; houſekeepers
more; but this ftatement regards only the gentlemen
tackſmen, of whom there are but five in the pariſh. The
other tenants generally get theirs at an eaſier rate, the rea-
fon of which is, perhaps, that they eat at the fame table
with themſelves, and ſeldom work but when their mafters
partake of the labour. The increaſe in fervants wages is
in a great meaſure owing to many of the young people,
particularly the men, going out the beginning of every
year to the low countries for work, from which they do
not begin to return till the latter end of October; alſo,
fince the manufacturing of kelp became an object of im-
portance, great numbers prefer it, though troublefome, to
any other work, becauſe in it they can earn from I s. 6 d.
to 3 s. per week, according to their labour. In other in-
ftances labourers are feldom hired for the week or day;
fome
of Portree.
155
fome farmers, indeed, have cottars, the half of whofe
weekly work they have, and fometimes more or leſs, for a
little grafs, and what ground they can labour the reſt of
their time. The quantity of kelp made annually in the
pariſh is little more than 35 tons; for the three laſt years
the value of kelp was very low, few getting L. 4, 10 s. and
many not above L. 3; this year, however, it promifes much
better.
Church, Poor, School, &c.-The Proteftant religion, ac-
cording to the eſtabliſhed form of the Church of Scotland,
is the only religion profeffed. There are four places of
worship, but only one church, which was built a few years
after the erection of the parish in the year 1726; it is
flated, but rather ſmall, and indifferently finiſhed within.
The heritors are two, Lord Macdonald, and Mr Macleod of
Raafay, the latter of whom generally refides in the parish.
The ſtipend is not quite rooo merks Scots, and the glebe
may be worth L. 6 a-year. There is no manſe. The
Crown is patron. Mr Hugh Macdonald, the preſent in-
cumbent's predeceffor, was firft minifter of the parish. Mr
John Nicolson, the prefent minifter, is a bachelor, in the
88th year of his age, and 39th of his miniſtry; a man of
primitive manners and exemplary life; fincere, benevolent,
and charitable, of untainted rectitude and uprightnefs, and
of fuch indefatigable perfeverance in the difcharge of his
paſtoral office, that being appointed to preach in Kirktown
in Raafay once every month, and once a quarter in another
part of that iſland, of no eaſy acceſs, he has not been abſent
above four times on the ordinary days, during the whole.
courfe of his miniſtry, till the beginning of ſpring laſt,
when he got a fall that diſlocated his thoulder, and confined
him to the houfe during the reſt of the ſeaſon. Till that
unfortunate accident he never was troubled with any fort
of
156
Statistical Account
of indifpofition, and what is rather fingular, never travelled
on horſe-back for one mile in all his life. As may be fup-
pofed, he is now extremely weak, and can ſcarcely walk
to the next place of worſhip; an affiftant, therefore, or miſ-
fionary, between Raafay and the farther end of the pariſh,
is much required, and greatly wished for by the people.
Before Mr Nicolfon's time there was no permanent poor's
fund; now there is L. 140. For many years after his ſet-
tlement, the poor were lefs numerous, and the Sunday col-
lections greater than at prefent; theſe circumſtances ena-
bled the kirk-feffion to purſue with fuccefs a plan formed
by the miniſter, of laying afide annually on intereſt the
fines of delinquents, and as much of the Sunday contribu-
tions as poffibly could be fpared, for the purpoſe of making
up a fſtanding fund. By that prudent œconomy they faved
the above mentioned fum; the intereft of which, with
fines and Sunday contributions, make the preſent annual
provifion for the relief of the more indigent poor in this part
of the pariſh. In Raafay they have a L. 20 legacy, the a-
mount of which, the intereft, and the Sunday collections.
in the iſland, and fines, if any, is diftributed every year
among their own poor. The number of poor on the liſt in
Raafay is 15; in this part of the parish 46. Befides thefe,
there are ſeveral more very needy, though not on the lift.
Many of the poor have ſome friend or relation, with whom
they, for the moſt part, live, and by whoſe help they are
fupported the greateſt part of the year.
About 40 years ago, the Committee for managing the
Royal Bounty for the improvement of the Highlands and
lflands, granted L. 25 per annum to a ſchoolmaſter and ca-
techift in this barony, who, by their terms, before his ad-
miffion to the ſchool, was to be examined at Edinburgh by
the Committee, and found knowing in matters that regard
religion, and fufficiently qualified to teach Greek, Latin,
arithmetic,
of Portree.
157
•
arithmetic, writing, and reading. Not long afterwards,
the late Sir James Macdonald, who died at Rome in 1766,
much eſteemed and lamented, obferving the central fitua-
tion of Portree, fixed on it for the feat of the ſchool, and
ordered a large and commodious fchool-houſe to be built.
But of the L. 25 granted by the Committee, five were
withdrawn ſeveral years ago, to make up a falary for a
miffionary appointed on the eaft fide of Kilmuir; which
miffion the funds of the Committee were not able to con-
tinue long, and therefore there now is none, but needed.
To the ſchool of Portree numbers come from all parts of
the country. It is generally very full every winter and
fpring; and the number of ſcholars in fummer is feldom
lefs than 30. It has often, from time to time, fent many
ſtudents to the Univerſity, who afterwards, in different ca-
pacities ferved, and ftill ferve their country, with honour
and credit. At preſent, there are three young men ready
for College.
Advantages, &c.—Were it turned to the uſe that nature
itfelf points out, Portree enjoys one great advantage, which
few or no places can boaſt of, and that is its noble and ex-
cellent port, called from its excellence Oen Acerfaid, or the
Harbour. An inlet of the fea, acroſs whofe mouth lies
Raaſay, ſpreading itſelf into an oblong, well fheltered on
all fides from every wind, forms a haven ſafe and commo-
dious as can be conceived. On the weft fide of this oblong
is a ſteep beech, nearly of a femicircular form, on whofe
fides rife two high rocks, and all together form a beautiful
baſon of water, on which the moſt violent ſtorms are never
feen to raiſe a wave. Along the beech, cloſe by the edge.
of the fea, between the two forementioned rocks, lies a
green field, about 60 feet broad; and right up from that
field is a low and eaſy aſcent, from the top of which a
Beyond this plain, towards
large plain opens to the view.
the
158
Statistical Account
1.
the N. W. commences a wide-extended mofs, confifting at
leaſt of 1200 fquare acres, in many places 12 feet deep, and
affording excellent peat. On all the hills around, too, is
plenty of good peats, and the beſt paſture; the beſt arable,
and beſt improveable lands in the parish lie round about
the harbour. Thus far then Portree appears to be the moſt
eligible fituation for founding a village that can be deviſed;
and farther, in other requifites and conveniencies, it is no-
thing behind. Situated in the very centre of Sky, and it
may be faid of all this part of the Highlands and Iſlands,
none of the lochs or bays on theſe coaſts moſt famous for the
herring-fishing, are far from it, and many are very near.
In the founds without are good banks for the ling and cod
fishing, and all the furrounding feas abound in various forts
of other fish. On the beech, becauſe of its fteepness, and
the great abundance of good ftone in the rocks above, a
breaſt work or quay might be built at a comparatively
fmall expence. On the other fide of the harbour are very
promifing appearances of coals; and a little beyond, near
its mouth, as likewiſe in the iſland of Raaſay, are inex-
hauſtible quarries of different forts of fine free-ſtone *; and
hard by, at Sconcer, is abundance of limeftone. Quite at
hand are two ſmall rivers that never dry up, and ſeveral
fountains of good and wholeſome water; fo that in all
points of view Portree has every advantage and conveni-
ency requifite for the building of a village; and therefore
there can be no doubt, but were it once begun, and ſuitable
encouragements given, it would ſoon be in a very flouriſh-
ing condition. Indeed, fuch is its inviting fituation that
there are, at prefent, no leſs than 30 families about the
place without lands; and who, for the moſt part, have no
other
2
*It is from Raafay that the neighbouring countries are fupplied with
millftones.
ļ
of Portree.
159
other means of fubfiftence but by fiſhing, ferrying to Loch-
Carron, Cifhorn Strath, and other places, going on errands
and expreffes, and other occafional employments. There
is a very good harbour in Ronay, but no veffels put in
there, unleſs forced by the weather or other accidents. The
conveniency of the ſchool is a great advantage; and it is
alſo a confiderable advantage, that from Sconcer to Acer-
ſaid, and thence down to Snizort, is the beſt piece of made
road in all Sky. Here, too, the latter end of every May
and July, is held a well known fair, to which all Sky, ex-
cept the diſtricts of Strath, Heat, ſome from Uift and Har-
rish, bring their cattle. The fair commonly continues.
from Wedneſday till the following Saturday; and while,
during that time, the cattle of others, fome of them after a
long driving through moors and bad roads, are ſtanding on
the moor, theſe in the neighbourhood of Portree are eaſily
fent to grafs every night, and brought back again next
morning, by which means they look much fuller and bet-
But with respect to the farms immediately near the
market-place, this manifeft advantage is perhaps often more
than balanced by the damage which their grafs, and ſome-
times their corn fuffers. The numbers that, on theſe occa-
fions, flock from all parts to Portree, are immenfe; and
though there is a large, commodious, and well kept inn at
Acerſaid, many, even of the beſt, are often put to their
fhifts for lodgings. Five miles fouth from Acerfaid, at
the meeting of the three principal lines of road in Sky, is
the public houſe and poſt-office of Sconcer, from which, by
means of two runners, and the poſt from Inverneſs to Dun-
vegan, all the letters of Strath, Heat, Troternifh, and
Mingnish are diftributed.
ter.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.--The language generally
Spoke is the Gaelic, but much corrupted with a mixture of
English
}
160
Statiſtical Account
English words, which the common people, ambitious to be
thought to underſtand fomething of that language, are fond
of uſing on every occafion. Moſt names of places are from
the Daniſh, fome from the Gaelic, of which inftances have
been already given; and further, Aird-du, or Black Pro-
montory, from du, black, and aird, a promontory; Bail-
mainish, or Middle Town, from bail, a town, and mainish,
middling, or in the middle. Of thoſe of Daniſh origin,
Maanish, and Raafay; the former from Nish or Nefs, which
plainly from the fituation of thoſe places whofe names have
that termination, fignifies a point or cape; the latter from
Ai or Ay, an iſland. The firſt parts of the names, the fig-
nification of which is not now well underſtood, are only par-
ticles or adjectives, expreffive of fome particular circum-
ftance, property, or quality of the places. The inhabitants
are as humanely and generously difpofed as any of their
neighbours. The gentlemen tackſmen, or firft clafs of far-
mers in Sky, do in general enjoy the benefits of a liberal
and polite education, and theſe ineftimable advantages they
are willing to beſtow on their children. The common
people are naturally endowed with a ſtrength of mind and
ſprightlineſs of diſpoſition that greatly diftinguish them from
others of the fame rank and condition. Their inquifitive
turn, and fondnefs for news, frequently induce them to ad-
drefs all they fee for information; and their queſtions, and
fhrewd remarks, are often very ſurprifing. This curioſity
is no where more confpicuous than in Portree, and perhaps
there are few places that afford more frequent opportunities
of gratifying it. A fort of coarfe woollen cloth called cloa,
or caddoes, the manufacture of their wives, made into ſhort
jackets and troufers, is the common drefs of the men. The
philibeg is rarely wore, except in fummer and on Sundays,
on which days, and fome other occafions, thoſe in better
circumſtances, appear in tartans, a bonnet, and ſhort hoſe,
and
of Portree.
161
and fome in a hat, short coat, waiſtcoat, and breeches of
Scotch or Engliſh manufacture. The women are in gene-
ral very cleanly, and fo exceffively fond of drefs, that many
maid-ſervants are often known to lay out their whole wages
that way. The men in general are middle fized; there »
are at preſent in this parish 5 men about 6 feet high, and
none exceed that height. The height of the women is
from 5 feet 2 inches to 5 feet 6; they are in general
handſome and well complexioned. Some fpirited young
men are fond of the military profeffion but here, as like-
wife in the other parts of the country, the generality feem
to have loſt that martial difpofition, which was fo cherac-
teriſtic of their fathers. When any is enlifted for the fer-
vice, his relations are, for fome time, inconfolable; and,
in particular, the mothers, fifters, and wives, would rather
have their reſpective relatives to pais the moft miferable
and wretched life with themſelves at home, than fee them
:
go into the army. If go they will, it would not give
them near the concern were it along with their chief, nis
connections or dependents, with whom they are acquainted;
and who, they are impreffed with the idea, have a greater
right to them, and would be more careful and tender of
them. However, the different recruiting parties through
the country this year have been pretty fuccefsful. The
men of Raafay are excellent fishers and excellent fea-
men; to their infular fituation, perhaps, abounding
in a variety of fish, this dexterity may in a great mea-
fure be attributed; they are more expert in fiſhing, and
appear to be fonder of a feafaring life than moſt of their
neighbours. During the fpring, and greateft part of fum-
mer, numbers of them are employed in the ling and cod
fiſhing, and then many of them engage on board the her-
ring buffes, where they commonly remain till the fiſhing
ſeaſon is over, when they return home with their earnings,
VOL. XVI.
X
well
162
Statiſtical Account
well clad, and more experienced mariners. Were the en-
couragements to fishing greater, which might be effected
by the removal of thoſe difficulties and obftacles, which at
preſent ſtand in the way of that uſeful and beneficial branch
of buſineſs, in confequence of the rigour of the falt laws,
much good and great profit would thereby accrue not
only to this parish, but to the whole country around * ;
nor need it be obſerved, that were a village founded at
Portree, it would be attended with many important bene-
fits; the foregoing indulgence would eſtabliſh it at once, if
a plenary indulgence could not be granted.
NUM-
*It would infure to the inhabitants a certain proviſion to their fami-
lies for the year, and prevent a vaſt conſumption of meal imported into
the country, if a report was annually given in of the number of the ſmall
clafs of tenants, to whom 2 barrels of falt might be diftributed upon oath,
for the purpoſe of curing the relative quantity of herrings to be eat with
their potatoes; even one barrel would totally change the face of affairs,
where ſubſiſtence is ſo ſcanty, and population fo overbearing. This tri-
fling indulgence would contribute to the neceffities of many thouſands,
A fworn rental, containing each name, might be annually produced at a
proper ſeaſon; it would be impoffible that falt diftributed in ſuch ſmall
proportions within the reſpective diftricts, could ever be miſuſed, or em-
ployed to beneficially to the poffetfor as in fecuring his fubfiftence; an
experiment might be made for one or more years, and profecuted or con-
demned according to the falt officer's report.
I
2
of Affint.
163
!
!
NUMBER VIII.
PARISH OF ASSINT,
(COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND
AND CAITHNESS, PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH.)
By the Rev. Mr WILLIAM MACKENZIE, Miniſter *.
I
Origin of the Name, and general Defcription, &c.
A
SSINT is a Gaelic compound t†, deſcriptive of the
fuperficies of the whole pariſh; its wide extent con-
fifting of lofty mountains, high hills, ftupenduous rocks,
threatening
* The writer of this paper informs once for all, that he is not fuch an
adept in the Gaelic language, as to ufe Irith orthography; therefore, when
Gaelic words must neceffarily be mentioned, that mode is all along adopted,
wherein there are few, if any, quiefcent letters. See Mr Macpherſon's
learned differtation, prefixed to the poem of Temora.
↑ As Agus Int, contracted As-Sint, i. c. in plain Engliſh, "In and out,"
which evidently refers to both convex and concave furfaces, cauſed by
lofty mountains, &c. In oppofition to the etymology prefently given,
there is a vague tradition bandied, which ftates, "That two brothers,
• Unt
164
Statistical Account
threatening precipices, and numberless objects of the like
kind, but by far of much lefs magnitude. Along the fides,
and ſtretched out from the baſe of theſe grand appearances,
are extenſive tracts of heath and mofs. Such parts of theſe
tracts as are in fome degree elevated, afford fafe pafturing
ground for yell cattle. Such as are low, overgrown with
foft and deep mofs, quagmires here and there interfperfed,
prove often fatal to quadrupeds of every kind; beneath all
theſe mountains, tracts of heath and deep mofs, are narrow
glens, vallies, and fmall plains, beautified with little natu-
ral mounts, ridges, and hollows; all theſe are wholly green,
affording plentiful pafture, during fummer and harveſt, for
milk cows, fome goat, and fheep. By the cloſe of harveſt,
or beginning of November, cattle are fent to winterings *,
where they continue till the beginning of February or
thereby, at which time they are taken thence, houfed, and
fed; the milk cows, in preference to all, are paſtured
through the day, if poffible, in the moors, or, if prevented by
one or more bad days, are fupported ſparingly within doors.
As to the lower part of this parish, called in Gaelic Fa-
Un-Affint, the furface is much the fame; it has its hills, &c.
but
"Unt and Af-Unt, (i. e. freely tranflated), the man of peace, and the
"man of difcord; that they, in days of old, fought for the mastery of
"Affint; that Unt was flain, of confequence the conqueror, Af-Unt, gave
"his name to the parish." And further, " That imaginary ſpots, where
"the ſcene took place, was at Ry-an-Unt, a ſmall plain on the farm of
"Little Affint, prefently poffeffed by Lieutenant John Scobie." But the
writer of this narrative fully convinced that. Gaelic original names are de
fcriptive of what is moft ftriking, or remarkably obfervable, has ventured
what is fet forth, as above, rather than mere fable.
* Certain grazings preferved during the whole three harveſt months,
to which the cattle are fent, and continue there for the winter quarter
without being houſed.
of Affint.
165
F
་
but perfectly diminutive when compared with thoſe of the
height of Affint. The numerous inhabitants here on their
ſmall particular divifion of a town or farm, practiſe much
the fame method with thofe on the height in rearing
cattle, which is the principal ſtaple of the whole parish,
and the only one of the height of Affint. But the inha-
bitants of Fan-Affint, or Lower Affint, have the additional
advantage of fiſhing in the furrounding offing, bays, feas,
and ocean, when they pleaſe, and when the weather will
permit them. But of theſe bays, &c. in their proper place.
The particular tract of the pariſh called Me-in- Affint,
i. e. the middle of Affint, is a perfect wild, covered with
heath, moſs, heathery hills, and rocks of ſmall ſize, and
freſh water lochs, which are numerous. This tract con-
fifts of the outskirts of all the farms on the whole coaſt of
the pariſh, and is uſed moftly in common, and as tem-
porary winterings, but not ſafe.
Situation. This parish is fituated on the W. N. W.
coaft of Scotland, within the county of Sutherland, the
prefbytery of Dornoch, Synod of Sutherland and Caithness.
The fynodical annual meeting is held alternately at Dornoch
and Thurfo; the latter a town in the county of Caithnefs;
the former, the only Royal Burgh in that of Sutherland.
The diſtance betwixt Thurfo and Dornoch is 43 computed
miles; thence to Affint 30 miles like meaſure, at leaſt.
Three rivers, and ſeveral confiderable rivulets. interſect the
road betwixt Affint and Dornoch; therefore, when the wea-
ther turns out rainy, and continues for but 24 hours, or
thereby, the very rivulets, and eſpecially the rivers, are fo
many tremendous torrents, not to be forded, and when
rafhly attempted, the confequence feldom fails to prove
fatal; along theſe 30 miles, there is not one bridge, nor
but one or two ſmall boats, of the fhape or figure of falmon
cobles,
166
Statiſtical Account
cobles, in which a ftranger would think himſelf not fafe,
far leſs would he think of having his horſe wafted in them,
though both are often done by the adventurous natives.
The road from Affint to Dornoch, making only allowance for
the preceding hazardous inconveniencies, is in a tolerable
degree opened up, excepting five miles in Finevin, the
property of the late active and gallant Sir John Rofs of
Balnagown, whom the narrator has often heard fay, that
he would foon drive his carriage to Kan-loch-elſh, which
could be eaſily effected, there being no bog nor mire in the
tract of theſe few miles, only ftones of fuch bulk as might
be taken up by any ordinary man, and removed to a di-
ſtance; the bottom is gravel. Sir Charles Roſs, ſon and
fucceffor to Sir John, would have only to fay, "Let theſe
"five miles be opened for a road;" and it would readily
be done.
Boundaries.-Affint, fituated as above, and lying on the
W. N. W. coaſt of Scotland, is thus bounded; on the N.
it is divided from the parish of Edrachilifh, by a great arm
of the fea, called Kilis *, of confiderable breadth, as it en-
ters from the ocean, probably more than two, if not three
leagues; it indents, running betwixt both pariſhes with
little variation, in a direction from W. to E. If we rec-
kon from the point, or land-end of Rowftore of Affint,
which projects into the ocean confiderably more than the
oppofite northern coaft of Edrachiliſh, the Kilis may be
found in length † fix leagues at leaft, as it terminates at the
bafes
*Kilis, a Gaelic noun, fignifying the feparation of one place from
another by fea or water.
1
The narrator could not get the perufal of the general map of Affint,
though he wrote the factor in 1793. It was locked up where there was
no acceſs to it; therefore all calculations or reckonings condefcended on
are but the narrator's beft conjectures.
+
of Affint.
167
baſes of Edrachiliſh and Affint, lofty mountains. At one
league's diſtance from the inland end of the Kilis, there is
a particular part of it, called Kilis-cu-ig, acroſs which a
ftone may be flung; there the natives fwim their hardy
breed of cattle, from either fide to the other, as often as
their buſineſs requires. Advancing eastward a very ſhort
diſtance from Kilis-cu-ig, the Kilis expands to a confide-
rable extent, and at length terminates in two lochs, viz.
Loch-glen du of Edrachiliſh and Lockunapool of this pariſh.
The herring-buffes repair yearly to theſe, and the other
lochs of the Kilis, and feldom have cauſe to repent, as they
fall in with fiſh, are well fheltered on one or other fide of
the Kilis, and have good anchoring ground.
Lochunapool above mentioned, ends at Glen-cul of Edra-
chilish, the only farm in this quarter of the county belong-
ing to the Honourable family of Reay, and in contact with
Aflint. The boundary by land, through hills, moors, c.
is ſomewhat differently repreſented. The poffeffors of Glen-
cul ſay, that their march with this pariſh runs along the
long-extended ridge of Bin-an-nu-i; on the other part, the
tenants of Unapool and others in this parish affert, that the
march lies at a fhort diſtance without the Ballach (i. e.
the flap or pafs) of that hill, whence it directs its courfe
by Loch-poul-aulay +; from that lake, in an eafl direction,
by Loch-an-tlugid ‡ to Cloich-an-tnive ||, where the march
of Glencul-Edruchiliſh with this parish ceaſes. The in-
confiderable tract of moor above referred to, very ſeldom
or never is a caufe of difference among the people; they
live
i. e. The Narrow Kyle.
† A loch where one of the name of Aulay periſhed.
Means a capacious loch; receives much water from the north fide of
Bin-an-nu-i.
A huge ftone, not far from winding craiggy rocks.
'
1
168
Statistical Account
live in peace, and exchange mutual good offices; their yell
cattle graze in common only for about three months in
the year, on thofe very high and bleak fummits. Quitting
marches with Edrachiliſh as above, this pariſh, at the very
fame Cloich-an-tnive, begins to bound with the moſt re-
mote Highland grazings, now of the parish of Creech,
and fince 1732 a property of the Balnagown family.
From Cloich-an-tnive the prefent runs thus By the
heights of Lead-ri-voch; by Tu-on; by Maul an-fear-loch;
the heights of Lead-na-bea-kach, until you arrive at the Ca
i. e. the flap or paſs) of that hill; the paſs lies betwixt
Be-a-kich and Gone-vaul-hill, the latter ſtill belongs to this
parish; the march is continued by a burn, which defcends.
from the pafs betwixt theſe two very high hills laft
mentioned; at the diſtance of a mile from its fource, it
forms a loch called Du-loch more †, the ftream iffuing
from it at the diſtance of about half a mile, falls along a
precipice; here the march forms a curve to Fowran-bal-
lach-tra-li-gal ‡; this ſpring is fituated on the verge of the
fame precipice, fouthward of the above ſtream; its pure ri-
vulet glides along a fimilar courſe, both to Stra-an-an, now
zo
as
* Theſe grazings are, Kor-a-vad-ag-beg, Kor-a-vad-ag-more, Beak-
ach-hill and Stra-an-an. Conteſts had arifen betwixt the herds of the
Laird of Affint and thofe of Balnagown. The Sheriff-depute of the
Right Honourable the Earl of Sutherland, who then, as of old, held heri-
table juriſdiction of the whole county, neceffarily interfered; and think-
ing, that by the fituation of theſe places, they fhould be attached to Bal-
nagown's neighbouring property, they were accordingly made over, by
which Affint loft what of old was reckoned grazing belonging to it.
The Big-black-loch.
i. e. A ſpring or well at the outer entry, from Affint, of Bellack-
tra-li-gal.
of Affint.
169
as already obferved, the property of Balnagown. From
the above ſpring or well, the march runs to the hill
of Breb-ag-tar-fkin *; from thence by the ridges of a great
range of hills, until you arrive at Ballach Ki-nich †, oppo-
fite to which lies Kaun-loch-alſh, of old appertaining to
Balnagown. For the fake of perfpicuity it is to be re-
membered, that the great track of fhore-moor, &c. from
the point of Row-ftore to the aforementioned Cana-bea-
kach fronts the north; from faid Ca, or país, to Ballach
Ki-nich, looks to the eaſt; thence, in a ſtraight line by the
ſouth-eaſt fide of Lochan-ſkerich ‡, to the fpring, from
which the burn of Auldan-na-kal-gach || runs, then along
its channel until it enters Loch-bolan; from the fouth end
of which, or, as others fay, from that part of its weſtern fide
directly oppoſite to Auldan-na-kal-gach, the march holds a
ftraight courſe to § Fe-na-hard-elig; from the weſt fide of
Loch-borlan this parish marches with that of Kincar-
dine; from Te-nahard-elig ** to the top of Maul-na-nim-ra-
chin: thence to Cloich-glas-maul-a-chirn ††, at which place
the
* Tar-ſkin ſignifies, that Breb-ag hill lies across the range of hills to
the fouth of it.
+ Means the flap or país of Kenneth.
rocks.
A little loch, having in it, or adjacent to it, ſmall ſharp-pointed
Means the burn of deceit or hypocrify.
§ A track of foft boggy moor, to which, in times of old, the natives
gathered deer, and when entangled, they killed them.
** Signifies a little hill having feveral tracks of plain moor, reſembling
fields, adjacent to it.
+ Means a hill, having a large gray ſtone on top of it. Kinin is a
Gaelic word, expreffing the fruit of the redin tree, which of old grew on
this maul or hill. There is a burn, running from the fouth fide of this
hill;
VOL. XVI.
Y
1
170
Statistical Account
the Balnagown Highlands, and alfo the parish of Kincar-
din, ceaſe to march with this parish; and there alfo Affint
begins to run marches with the barony of Coigach, pariſh
of Lochbroom, in this manner: From faid Cloich-glas-
maul a-kirn, to the higheſt eminence of Lead-na-luib-a-
croi*. But we must not pafs on without obferving, that from
Ballach Ke-nich, eſpecially from the fource of Auldan-na-
kal-gach, the march, with little variation, holds thence a
courſe from S. E. by S.W. to the above Lead-na-luib-a-croi;
from this place the march fets off in a weft direction to the
higheſt part of Maul-an-ourt; from that fummit by the
fouth fide of Maul-a-vourich ‡, in the ſame direction to the
top of the hill, called Ki-uch ||; thence all along as ridges
of hills and water divide, by the higheſt part of Maul-cor-
a-loch-an, in a ftraight line to Gla ik-na-crev-fhellich S,
which is at fome confiderable diſtance to the fouth of the
farm of Knochan, the higheſt fituation in all this pariſh.
At the above Gla-ik-na-crev-fhellich, a fpring originates; at
a
hill; it runs five or fix miles before it enters Skell-river, the grazings
which lie betwixt it and the march, defcribed from Ballach Ki-nich to
Cloich-glas-maul-a-chirn, were taken away by the Thane of Rofs from
Macleod Laird of Affint, in time of the conflicts of the clans. It is re-
ported by tradition, that one of the Thane's followers, who had a little
earth from Balnagown's property in his fhoes, declared folemnly, as he
ftood with the inqueft at Auldan-na-kal-gach, that he was then ſtanding
on the Thane's undoubted property; then it was that the burn got the
pame of Auldan-na-kal-gach.
Means a gravelly, hard plain.
A hillock having bad heath.
A hill frequented by deer in rutting ſeaſon.
II A paſs.
A flap in a rock where a wild willow tree grew.
of Affint.
171
a certain diſtance from its fource it falls into Auld-a-chro-
kan; this burn, after ſeveral windings, difgorges itſelf into
a great lake called Loch-me-addy; from the ſpring of
Glaik-na-crev-fhellich to this laſt loch, the courſe of the
march is from S. to N. From Loch-me-addy the march
affumes a direction from E. to W. in this manner: A great
body of water iffues from that loch; it forms a channel of
no great length; it is contracted to the breadth of an ordi-
nary river, and refigns at laſt its great ftream to another
equally large lake called Fane-loch; betwixt theſe two
great lochs there is in the channel above mentioned one ford,
it is called U-y-farn *; it is dangerous, being only incohe-
rent tone and fand heaped together, by ftrong winds which
prevail here the go of harveft, more or leſs through winter,
and eſpecially beginning of ſpring; fome perfons, though but
feldom, are drowned at U-y-farn. At the diſtance of 3
miles, towards the fhore, a grand caſcade commands atten-
tion. It goes by the name of The Caſcade of Inverkirkag
River. The collection of the numberlefs fprings, burns,
and lochs from Ballach Kenich, all along the march, to
Knochan of Affint, as above mentioned, befides what is
fuperadded from lofty mountains on both fides the watery
march, at this very place all concentring to the Cafcade,
force their way over a very great, high, and craggy pre-
cipice. The fall exhibits a ſcene that ftrikes the beholder
with furprife; immediately after the fall an eafy declin-
ing channel forms; its length to the fea is two miles.
At
A ford, near to which alder trees grow.
Thefe are Su-il-vine, (which means the Mountain of the Eye), in
ſea charts called, Sugar Loaf, as being of a conical figure, and feen of that
fhape by mariners at a great diftance; it is in this parith. The other
great mountain is Cin il-more of Coigach; both are oppofite on each
fide of the march.
1.72
Statiſtical Account
At about the middle part there is a ſtem or cruive, having
two cheſts, acroſs to catch falmon, and to prevent their get-
ting up to a great pond below the fall, whence they cannot
be taken by reafon of great ſtones, roots of trees, and other
obſtacles carried yearly there in time of great ſpeats; no
filh was ever known to have furmounted the Cafcade. This
river at laſt difembogues itſelf into the ocean, at a very ſhort
diſtance ſouth of Inverkirkag farm houfe. There, at cer-
tain times of every tide during the fiſhing-ſeaſon, fiſhers ply
with a yoal, (a little boat), oars, and nets, to catch falmon.
The quantity taken throughout the feaſon is faid not to ex-
ceed one and a half laft, though in a favourable year, the
fishing may turn out to a few barrels more; however, the
falmon, in regard of quality and reliſh, are allowed not to
yield to any in Great Britain, being ſpawned in a river
whoſe many ſprings are the pureft fources, and alfo being
catched inftantly as they come from the ocean.
Leaving Coigach barony (which has no right to fiſh fal-
mon here) fouth of Inverkirkag river, to which river the
preſent marches of this parish, with thofe of Edrachilish,
Creech, Kincardine, and Lochbroom pariſhes, have been
all along particularly pointed out, the narrator now pro-
ceeds to deſcribe the coaſt of this parish from the river of
Kirk-ag to the point or land-end of Row-ftore, from which
place he began to fhow the circuitous march of it.
The length of this part of the coaft, if the uneven, winding,
and in fome places, rocky foot road from farm to farm be
followed, may be found at leaſt to meaſure 15 miles. The
courſe
1
The farms on this track of coaft, and in its neighbourhood, are, In-
verkirkag, Baddy-na-ban, Knock-nan-nach, Culag, Filin-wintering,
Drumfwordland, and Duchlafh. Thefe, as fituated betwixt Kirk-ag and
Inver rivers, are called Ed-ra-ik farms. They lie S. S. E. of the river of
Inver.
2
1
of Affint.
173..
+
courſe from Kirk-ag river to the point of Row-ftore, runs
from S. S. E. to N. N. W. All this coaft is of importance,
as the fea abounds with every fpecies of fish, cod, ling, &c.
there are likewiſe a variety of fhell fish, viz. oyfter, lobſter,
c. But the annual refort of herring to this and neigh-
bouring coafts, S. and N. of the parish, (now for feveral
years paſt), is what affords great advantage, both in reſpect
of living and profit to thoſe reſiding there, far fuperior to
all the refources which the inhabitants refiding on the
heights of it can have. By the fide of Loch-Inver is the
fishing ftation of Culag, built at the expence of L. 2000
Sterling, by John-Jofeph Bacon, Efq; of the Iſle of Man,
and one Mr Donald Roſs partner, for a certain ſhare of that
fum. Of late years the leafe and buildings have been all
transferred to other adventurers. There is a ſmall cruive
on the little river of Culag, where perhaps a barrel of fal-
mon may be catched throughout the feafon; its contiguity
to the falmon-fishing of Inver river can be the only reafon
for the expence of its having a cruive and ſmall cheft acroſs.
At Inver river, which has alſo a cruive and two chefs,
there may be cured throughout the feafon two lafts of fai-
mon; a favourable year may produce more,
year may produce more, but very fel-
dom, if ever, does it complete three lafts. Inver river,
which has its numerous fources *, &'c. from every direc-
tion, eſpecially from Goin-vaul-hill, and alfo from Loch-
Ah, near Ledbeg farm, on the height of this parish, it
diſgorges itſelf into the large and very fafe harbour of Loch-
Inver, where, when the herring-fifhing offers fuccefsfully,
there may be feen occafionally two, three, or four fcore,
and
*Of theſe, and the farms lying adjacent on the height, the narrator
will afterwards take notice, but he must keep his courte in defcribing
the coaft.
174
Statiſtical Account
+
and fometimes a greater number of fhips *. But, to
proceed, along a dangerous wooden bridge to the oppofite
fide of Inver river, in our way to Row-ftore-point, feveral
farms and grazings offer to view, interfperfed with num-
berlefs rocks, ftones, and hollows; however, all have the
advantage of fiſhing. Every farm has one, two, or more
boats, according to the number of inhabitants fit to be em-
ployed. After fishing, the natives draw up their boats on
ſhore, or into ſmall creeks; as after leaving Loch-Inver
harbour, there is no ſafe one until (after doubling the point
of Row-ftore) you enter the chops of Kilis ; which being
effected, a mariner may, as he finds convenient, fafely an-
chor at Cu-il-heu-ig, north fide of Dorny-oldney ||; or
from the point of Store, keeping clear of the island
Oldney, he may ſafely put in at Poul-an-dun-an §, on the
north
* Theſe come from every part of the eaſt and west coast of Scotland,
from Stornaway, nine leagues diftant from this coaft, and feen from it,
when the day proves clear and ferene; a few ſhips come from the iſlands
of Orkney and Man. All theſe herring-buffes, their numerous crews,
boats, and great trains of nets, make no leſs pleaſant than grand appear-
ance. In pursuit of herring, the crews, &c. fet out to fifh late in the
evening, and continue till early next morning. The buffes ride at anchor,
Such is the method practifed.
Their names are, Baddy-darroch, Inver, Brackloch, Baddy-grinan-
wintering, Torbreck-wintering, Achonalvich, Clacktoll, Store, Balla-chla
dach, Clashmore, Achnakarnan and Dure-land, Culkin-ach-na-kar-nan,
close by the point of Row-ftore.
Kilis was defcribed in general, p. 166; this further defcription is
meant for the more particular information of mariners.
|| Dorny, i. e. a narrow space or channel of fea, where it flows and
ebbs, and where, at full fea, a veffel can be towed to either fide of the
harbour.
Poul-an-dun-an, called fo, as there is there a little mount or dune
on the north fide of the island, oppofite to the anchoring ground.
f
of Affint.
175
north fide of that iſland, not far from the Dorney. The
great and long track from Oldney to Unapool, (both theſe
places included) is called by the general name of Sliſh-a-
chilish; there are feveral farms on it †, and fafe harbours
alfo. Next to thofe of Oldney are the following: Loch-
Drumbaig, it is fheltered by a range of rocks and little
iflands (called in Gaelic, Elan-in-du, i. e. The Black Iflands)
at a moderate diſtance off ſhore, and almoſt parallel to it.
Veffels anchor betwixt the fhore and the iflands.
Loch-Nedd is the ſecond beft, if not equal to the har-
bour of Loch-Inver. It is fafe, and fheltered from every
wind, and in time of the herring-feafon, there may be as
great a number of ſhipping here as at Loch-Inver.
Ardvare Loch or Harbour. Its entry is narrow; the bot-
tom craggy. If a yeffel gets in, which the may fafely
effect at high tide, fhe rides fafe, and is well fheltered.
This harbour is of confiderable extent.
Cambus-vic-ker-chir t. It is fafe and well fheltered,
except from N. E. gales. It is fituated on the coaft of
Ardvare farm, not far from the march of Ry-an-traid-
wintering. Advancing ftill more inland by Kilis, the next
harbour is,
Poul-a-gha-ren, which affords great fafety and ſhelter.
It is fituated in that great bofom of Kilis, directly oppofite
to Auld-a-gha-un, the march betwixt Ry-an-tra-id-winter-
ing,
i. e. The thigh, or fide of the Kilis.
The farms are, Claneffy, Oldeny, Culkin-drumbaig, Drumbaig,
Nedd, Glen-le-ag, Ardvare, Ry-an-tra-id-wintering, and Unapool, which,
as formerly obferved, co-marches with Glencul Edrachilis parish.
A Gaelic compound; Cambus, or Camus, meaning, A wide inden-
ture of the fea into the land: Vic-ker-chir, Farquhurt's fon, from whom
this harbour took its name, &c.
་
4
}
176
Statistical Account
ing and Unapool. It has the additional fhelter of Elan-
a-gha-un *, belonging to Un-a-pool-farm. Poula-ghaun is
in fight of the entry to Kilis-cu-ig formerly mentioned.
At a very ſhort diſtance eaſtward from it is the harbour of
Cambus-vic-Huftan. The common people call it Loch-
cam-mus-
nus-cu-fake. It will contain fafely from 12 to 18
herring-buffes, and their boats.-Such is the coaſt, and ſuch
are the harbours of Affint.
It is unneceffary here to fay any thing particular of the
great expanfion of Kilis eastward of the laſt mentioned har-
bour, nor of the manner it terminates, having been already
fet forth in p. 167, et feq. of this Statiſtical Account. All this
part of the coaft, from the point of Row-ftore, along Sliſh-
a-chilish, to the march of Unapool with Glencuil Edrachi-
liſh pariſh, is of equal, if not greater value than that track
formerly ſpoken of, from Inver-kirk-ag river to faid point
of Store, for theſe reaſons, that it has more harbours, and
at leaſt equal advantage in fiſhing.
ISLANDS on the Coaft, and belonging to the Pariſh of
ASSINT.
Elan-a-gharin.-This ifland belongs to the farm of Una-
pool, where their calves are fpeaned, and there occafionally
one cow may be fattened.
Elan-an-du, or Black Iflands, and adjacent rocks, form
and ſhelter the harbour of Loch-Drumbaig. Theſe iſlands
are of little value, fit only for fpeaning a very few lambs
or kids. The eagle pays them vifits for a repaſt.
Maul-elan-an.
*Elan-a-gha-un, alfo a compound, Elan fignifying an Iland: and
Gha-un, meaning a Six-month old of the cow-kind. To this ifland the
tenants of Unapool fend cattle of that age to be fpeaned.
of Affint.
177
ン
​Maul-elan-an.-Thefe are two iſlands attached to the farm
of Culkin-Drumbaig; they are a little nearer the coaſt of
this pariſh than that of Edra-chilish; they lie in that broad
part of Kilis which runs in a direct line betwixt Culkin-
Drumbaig and Loch-bad-ca-ul *, a fine harbour cloſe by the
manfe of Edra-chilifh. To theſe iſlands fometimes old
fheep are fent to fatten, or lambs to be fpeaned. They
are of no great extent. They are not to be approached
but when a fair and calm day offers, by reaſon of the bil-
lows and broken furges, which violently waſh their bold
and rocky fhore.
Inland Oldney. This ifland, the beft on the whole coaft,
the eaſtern end of it lies fo near the mainland part of Old-
ney farm, by reaſon that the breadth of the channel divi-
ding them will not exceed 20 yards; this alſo is the channel
formerly mentioned by the Gaelic name of Dorny-elan-
aul-da ney, having a harbour on each fide of it. The
length of it will perhaps meafure an English mile; the
breadth varies much in many places, and where broadeſt,
will probably not exceed a quarter of a mile. Its infular
fituation makes it valuable, as its pafture and little corn is
fafe from being trefpaffed on by neighbouring cattle; be-
fides that it anfwers in its turn, with other grazings, as
part of the milch cow pafture throughout fummer. During
the harveſt months, no beſtial is allowed to enter it, being
all that time preferved for out-wintering paſture. Cattle
are put in there fome time in November, (as into all other
winterings), are thence gradually taken out to be houſed
the beginning of fpring, as they may appear to need pro-
vender. Some cattle are loft yearly as they attempt get-
ting to little plots of grafs among high rocks, with which
VOL. XVI.
2
*The masters of hips and their failors call it Loch-bad-well.
the
178
Statistical Account
}
the coaft of the island abounds. It is allowed that this
ifland is a fifth or fixth part value of the yearly rent of the
whole farm of Oldney.
Cronay Island.-This is a little flat iſland, alfo adjoined to
Oldney farm; it lies in that pretty large bofom of fea,
which, from the point of Row-flore, leads to the anchoring
ground of Cul-chu-ig, fouth fide of Dorny-Oldney. It is
fheltered on the N. by Iland Oldney; on the S. by the
high rocks of Clafhneffy farm; but the fhore of this farm
fhould be kept at a moderate distance by any prudent
mariner, as it is fhallow. This fmall ifland will fatten a
half-dozen fheep, or one cow,
So-ay Ifand-It lies to the S. of Row-ftore point, to-
wards the entry of Loch-Inver harbour from the offing. A
mariner may make his way to that harbour, by keeping his
courſe on either fide of it, as he may find moſt convenient.
This ifland is a pendicle of Inver farm. It is rather flat,
though not wholly fo. It partly abounds with heather,
and fweet grafs. It is much longer than broad; the former
dimenfion may be half an English mile, the latter one-third
of that length. Lambs and kids are ſent there to be fpean-
ed, and taken thence in two or three weeks; if no other
cattle are fent there immediately thereafter, but the paſture
preferved until the beginning of November, in this event
it will prove fufficient to out-winter eight or nine year-
olds of the cow kind.
Klett Island. This ifland is fituated to the S. of So-ay,
at the diſtance of one mile, or thereby. It is a pendicle
of Inver-kirk-ag farm, and fomewhat of a round figure,
The ditance from Inver-irk-ag to this ifland, by the fhal-
low bay of Inver-kirk-ag will be one league. It is not to
be
of Affint.
179
be approached but of a calm day, and fmooth fea. It is
but a high rock, confiderably above the greateſt tide
and furge, except in one or two places of difficult acceſs
when landing; there, however, lambs and kids are ipeaned,
old ſheep fattened, and when no fuch are in this iſland, it
will over-fatten one cow or bullock of large fize *.
The narrator having all along mentioned in fubjoined
notes, or in the body of this Statiſtical Account, the feveral
farms which fell in his way, of a long and wearifome cir-
cuit, it would become him now to proceed to the imme-
diate difcuffion of the more important particulars of this
detail; but the mention of theſe are for a little deferred,
until, with equal impartiality, the names at leaſt of the in-
termediate farms are fimply recorded. The defign of
which is, That in the event any thing uſeful, meriting en-
quiry or inſpection, may occur in what remains to be addu-
ced, any perfon, from whatever quarter, may know where
to find and fee fuch objects, without guide or reward to
any.
Therefore the names of all the farms and inhabited
places, not formerly mentioned, will foon follow in courſe.
But to give as clear an idea as poffible of the different tracts
and directions in which thefe places are fituated and found,
the narrator will fuppofe, that a traveller fets off from In-
ver-kirk-ag fhore for Ledbeg on the height of this parish;
in this event he will either keep by the fouth fide of Su-il-
vine, or Suggar-loaf-hill, and find the path difagreeable,
abounding with ftones, in fome parts with rocks; and in
cafe
* A certain gentleman of this pariſh had one fed there, which fattened
to that degree, that upon the animal being landed thence, he could not
move but with the floweſt pace, but that being rather too much, he in-
ftantly died of fuffocation by fatnels.
I
i
· 180
Statistical Account
cafe he would wiſh to give a call, or ſhelter himſelf from
rain or ſtorm, there is but one habitable place called Brack-
loch, (clofe by the weſtern end of the great freſh water
lake called Ca-um-loch *), a diſtant pendicle of Ledbeg-farm.
Or, again, if the traveller fets out from Tilin-wintering by
Ed-ra-vine track †, he will find his way almoſt equally bad
for faid Ledbeg, though in part opened up feveral years
paſt. Here alſo is but one habitation, named Clo-ich-a-ry ‡,
fituated in a contracted gloomy hollow, moftly furrounded
with rocks. It lies to the north fide of lofty Su-il-vine.
This place is alſo a remote corner of Ledbeg farm, and oc-
cupied by a herd of Lieutenant Kenneth Mackenzie, the
tackfman. But in preference to both the above tracks, if
the traveller fets off by Inver and Brackloch-Inver farms,
keeping along the north fide of Inver river, he will find
his way more comfortable in every reſpect. One hour's
walk or thereby will bring him to Little Affint, and he
may
*Ca-um-loch, i. e. the crooked loch. Some years paft the Lord Bi-
ſhop of Derry, now Earl of Briſtol, among other parts of the north that
his Lordſhip vifited, made an excurfion to this parish, and by reason of the
grand fcene of this loch, its fine iflands, beautified with natural trees,
birch alſo, ſurrounding lofty hills, feen and reflected from the ſmooth
furface of Ca-um-loch, ftruck his Lordship with fuch pleaſure and novelty,
that he cauſed his French valet draw a perſpective view of the whole.
Ed-ra-vine, means, Betwixt two mountains, viz. Sul-vine to the S.
and Ca-nifp to the N. of this track. Some have perished here, and ſeve-
rals have been in great danger of the like fate in time of winter ſtorms.
A-ry fignifies a grazing, having booths for accommodation of milk.
maid and herds. Clo-ich, i. e. a ſtone, importing that it abounds with
fach.
|| Oppoſite to it, on the fouth fide of Inver river, is the little farm of
Poul-a-garvie. On the N. W. of Little Affint, is the farm of Loch-ban-
noch; and to the N. of Loch-bannoch lies Poul-la-kar-kan, a part of Tu-
more.
}
i
of Affint.
185
may walk or ride as he may find convenient. Little Af-
fint is a wintering, and confequently a temporary reſidence
of Lieutenant John Scobie. He generally has a boat at
the weſtern end of the beautiful freſh water lake called
Loch-Affint. If it can be got, it will ferve as a vehicle for
feven miles towards the higher farms here; and then the
traveller lands near the parochial kirk; but though the
boat thould not be procured, it makes no great differ-
ence; as upon leaving Little Affint, the traveller makes
for Tumore, where the road becomes perfectly firm, and
continues fo, not only to Auld-an-na-kal-gach, the prefent
march, but as far further as the length of Dornoch or Tain.
But to proceed and mention all the other farms of this inland
intermediate tract; the traveller leaving Tumore *, has the
high hills of Cu-i-nag cloſe by him, to the north; on his
right hand is the fmall winterings of Edra-chalda, at fame
time the winterings of Upper and Lower Tubegs † offer
to full view; they lie along the fouth fide of Loch-Affint,
at the baſe of a group of hills called Bine- garve. From
Baddy-nacarbad, the ſmall wintering of Edra-chalda, the
road
more. Mr Kenneth Scobie, tackfman of it, of Upper and Lower Ach-
more, and of Ry-an-traid, Cui-nag-hills are attached to theſe farms; they
are managed by his overfeers and fervants here. Himſelf and family reſide
on the good corn farm of Scoury, Edrachilifh parif.
*Befides this tract or road from Inver to Tumore, there is another
from Oldeny to it alfo, at the distance of a half mile from Tumore, in
our way thence for the height, a path or track ftrikes off this principal
road (as we call it) by Ballach-lerag for Slihachilifh, particularly for
Glenlerag, Ned, and Ardvare farms; the two former fituated by the chops
of Loch-Ned, the latter not far from it.
† Edra-chalda is the name of the farm; Baddy-na-carbad is that of the
wintering.
182
Statistical Account
road leads directly cross the little, but occafionally rapid ri-
ver or burn of Ski-ak, through the farms of Upper and
Lower Achmores*, that of Edra-chalda, crofs the ſmall river
of Chalda, then through the farm of Culin and Half Ca-
more; here, about the eaſtern end of Loch-Affint, are the
parochial kirk and manfe. The way thence leads crofs.
the river Tralegal, which, at a little diſtance enters Loch-
Affint, then through the farms of Inch-nadaff, Sronchruby,
and Laing, croſs A-na-ka-un river, by Ry-an-cro-vich farm,
thence, advancing a little, there is a path which ſtrikes off
for Leadbeg farm-houfe, but the public road is continued to
Auldan-nakal-gach 1; the farms from thence weftward (in
the direction of Cloich-glas-maul-a-chirn, &c. formerly de-
ſcribed), and lying within that line of march, are Ledmore,
Cromauld, Auld-an-achy, Alpine, and Knock ||. The nar-
rator having now faithfully mentioned every particular
farm and inhabited place, the manner they are fituated
along fhore, and how they lie in the inland tracks, he leaves
the confideration and decifion refpecting public roads to the
Honourable Commiffioners of the county; only adding,
that if theſe roads were begun and finiſhed, bridges built,
and regular ſtages fixed, probably no lefs curious and uſe-
ful
* Upper Tubeg is adjoined to Inifnadaff farm, Lower Tubeg to Stron.
chouby farm.
+ From the principal road a track or path ſtrikes off by Achmore farm.
houfe for Unapool farm, which is the eaſtern end of Slichachilish.
The other half of Camore is the minifter's glebe.
The unfortunate perfon, by whofe fingle evidence (in time of the
clan conflicts) the grazings or farms of Auldy-vulin, Auldan-farn, Strath-
fef-kach, Knock-kurny, and Glas-wel, with all parts and pendicles, were
fevered from Affint, is handed down to this very day as having laid violent
hands on himſelf. That limb once of this parish was fweeped away when
the intrepid lairds of Macleod held all this pariſh.
§ There is a tract on bad road from Knochan to the village of Ula-poo!
-
of Affint.
183
ful objects would caft up to view, and be found here, than
in the Swifs Cantons, fo very particularly deſcribed by
British travellers.
Circumference, Length, and Breadth of Affint Pariſh.-
Concerning thefe dimenfions a conjecture can only be of
fered, for reaſons formerly affigned; however, if the courſe
of marches deſcribed in the preceding pages of this account
are followed in their various windings along the coaſt,
through moors and hills, there is no faying but this pariſh
may be found 100 English miles in circumference. Taking
the length from Auldan-nakal-gach, or Cromauld, to the
point of Row-ſtore, may meaſure from 20 to 25 like miles.
The breadth varies much; but fuppofing it to be taken
from the march of Auld-an-achy, or Knockan, with Coi-
gach, to the lands-end of Loch-Ardvare, in which line only
this pariſh is fuppofed broadeft, it is preſumed not to ex-
ceed, (or at moft found to meaſure,) 15 miles. It is an eafy
affair for ſuch as can have recourſe to inſpect the general
plan or map of this parish *, to inform themſelves of the
preciſe dimenfions, by their applying a pair of compaffes
to the ſcale of that map.
Number of Acres.-Theſe muſt be feveral thouſands.
The narrator can offer no particular conjecture of their
number, as the ſurface of the parish abounds ſo very much
with great freſh-water lakes, and numberless leffer ones
alfo; befides rocks, hills, and mountains of every fize and
dimenſion, ſome of which are inacceffible, and others of
them
* That general map, as alſo particular draughts of every farmı, was drawn
up by John Home, in time of Lady Sutherland's minority.
184
Statistical Account
them fo in particular places: Therefore, inſtead of acres,
can only be repreſented,
The ancient Divifion of the Lands of the whole Parish.-
The ancient divifion of the parish, to this day retained and
known by all here, was into davochs of land, which are
four: ft, The davoch of Ard-Affint, including the whole
tract and farms thereon, from Skiak river all along to the
march of Ledmore, at Auld-an-nakal gach, &c. to Knock-
an, as particularly mentioned in the preceding pages. This
davoch was the only one which fuffered confiderably by
feudal differences and powerful jurifdiction, now happily
abrogated fince 1748.
2d davoch, Ed-ra-ifk, extends from Inver-kirk-ag river
to that of Inver; its hill paſture lies towards Su-il-vine and
Canifp mountains.
3d davoch, Row-ftore, lies extended along fhore from
Inver river to Garve-auld of Clafhneffy. The paſture for
yell-cattle is the out-fkirts of all the farms, and called Me-
an-Affint, formerly defcribed.
4th davoch, Sliſh-a-chilish, fituated betwixt faid Garve-
auld of Claſhneffy, along the coaſt of Kilis, to the march
of Unapool (as formerly repreſented) with Glencul of
Edra-chilifh parifh. The hill-pafture of this davoch is in part
a divifion of Me-an-Aflint, to the boundary of Glenlerag
farm by Loch-nedd. Glenlerag, Ardvare, Ry-an-traid,
and Unapool, have out fkirts, each of their own.
For rea-
fons which will appear in the fequel, the ſubdiviſions of theſe
four davochs must not be omitted, for they are ſtill retained
and known by the natives; and by attending to it in its
proper place, a pretty exact calculation can be made of all
the live-ſtock of every ſpecies of cattle in the pariſh.
Subdivifion
of Affint.
185
Subdivifion of the four Davochs.-The fubdivifion of
theſe four davochs is into oxgates of land, every davoch
confifting of eight fuch, making in all 32 oxgates. The
practical objects of this fubdivifion ſhall be ſtated under a
fubfequent topic.
Surface. The furface was repreſented in the general
defcription given in the beginning of this account, as
almoſt wholly uneven, and rocky, having interjacent little
glens, fields, plains and meadows, which, during ſummer
and harveſt, abound with rich pafture, at no great diſtance
from the feveral farms and places of refidence, near to
which natural grafs is yearly cut in Auguft or September
for hay, as the ſeaſon may allow. At the extreme marches
with the different neighbouring landed property, the ſurface
abounds moſtly with lofty mountains, hills, extenſive tracts
of heath, having here and there foft mofs and quagmires,
which often prove fatal to cows and horfes.
Soil-Along the whole fhore, the foil is of various
kinds, ftony, gravelly, fandy, moffy, and theſe for the moſt
part interſperſed with rocks and ſtones, fome of greater,
others of leſs magnitude; for which caufe almoſt all the
labouring is performed by the crooked and ftraight delving
fpades, implements of huſbandry peculiar to this and other
parishes to the N. to the W. and S. W. of Affint. The
plough affords confiderable aid at the farms of Inver-kirk-
ag, Tilin-wintering, Inver, at Oldney, and Little Affint-
wintering. The plough might do fo, in more or lefs de-
gree, throughout the feveral other farms of theſe three
davochs along fhore. But the inhabitants, being numerous
there, think it eafier, and attended with leſs expence,
VOL. XVI.
A a
to
186
Statistical Account
ח
*
to delve their feveral divifions of land, than be at the
trouble of clearing the ground, or of ufing horfes and
ploughs, eſpecially as their immediate fubfiftence depends
on their ſucceſs in fifhing, to which they must pay regu-
lar attention: befides, it is found by experience, that
there is a much greater increaſe of corn, from the ſame
quantity of feed fown in delvings, than from the like
quantity fown in ploughed ground; bear fown in the ſtraight
Spade delving is generally found to yield fixteen in return.
Soil of Davoch Ard-Affint, or Affint Height.-The foil
here is, for most part, a rich heavy loam; in ſome other
places it is gravelly. Limeſtone and mofs abound through
the whole extent of it. The fields, though few, and not of
great extent, are as regularly laid out as the ſurface will
allow; fome rocks above, and others below the furface,
give embarraſſment, and require the attention of the
ploughman to avoid them; for which reafon there is
in time of tilling a man who attends with the afore
mentioned crooked ſpade, whoſe employment it is to delve
the ground where it is fuppofed there are concealed rocks
and ſtones, in order to expoſe them to view, fo that neither-
plough nor harnefs may receive hurt.
Cultivation, Manure, and Implements of Huſbandry:
Yearly from the middle of July to the 15th of Auguft, the
labourer employs a confiderable part of that time in ga-
thering earth, which he forms into an oval or quadrangular
figure; above that are laid ftrata of dung, lime, and
whatever elfe may enrich his dunghills, to which a confi-
derable addition is made by the litter of cattle, houſed
early in the ſpring. If that feafon be favourable, the til-
lage commences at or about the middle of Febru-
ary. Oats are fown in March and beginning of April.
Fields
Dig with the ſpade.
of Affint.
187
Fields to be laid down with bear, and fuch as are to be
planted with potatoes *, after having been once ploughed,
are thereafter manured, and upon their being tilled a ſecond
time, are inſtantly fown, and harrowed. Sea-weed is
the principal manure, all along the shore. Some little
tracts of moor and barren ground are yearly every where
brought into cultivation by potatoe-planting; but the whole
arable ground, ploughed and delved throughout the whole.
pariſh, does not probably bear the proportion of one acre
to an hundred, of what is hill pafture, moor and mofs.
The old Scotch plough is the only one ufed here; four
hardy native horfes are yoked to it. The other imple-
ments of huſbandry are harrows, the crooked and ſtraight
delving fpades, Engliſh fpades, fome mattocks, cabbies,
crook-faddles, and creels. It is with thefe two laſt men-
tioned that the manure is carried on horfeback to the field,
as neither cart nor waggon are yet uſed here.
Seed Time and Harveft.-Seed time, as above mentioned,
if the ſpring proves favourable, begins early in March,
and in that event, the labouring is finished by the clofe of
May, or fome days thereafter. If the harveft be a good
one, the crop will be fecured by the latter end of Septem-
ber; but this happens very feldom, by reafon of exceffive
rains, which, if they come on in March, lengthen the la-
bouring to the 24th of June, and of courfe very probably
the ingathering of the crop is protracted to the end of Oc-
tober
*When in the 1765 the narrator was admitted to the charge of Affint,
there were no potatoes, except a few planted in his predeceffor's garden.
In the 1766, a half boll for feed was got, fmall prefents were made, the
manner how to plant, &c. was shown. At firſt the natives were indiffe-
rent; however, being perfuaded to perfevere, and finding their great
advantage, they have ever fince improved in the ſkill of planting their
plots and fields of potatoes.
.
188
Statiſtical Account
tober at leaſt, if not, to the middle of November *. If
theſe rains continue, and change to fleet and froft, which
fometimes happens, the whole labour of the year is either
loft. or, the crop is rendered unwholeſome for man and
beaſt; of conſequence fickneſs prevails among the people,
and the loſs of cattle is inevitable.
Climate, Difeafes, &c.-In general, the climate is rainy,
as much fo at leaſt as in any tract of equal extent on the
W. N. W. coaft of North Britain. The rain continues not
only for hours, but often for days; nay, for weeks, eſpecially
if the wind perfeveres for fo long a time to blow from the
weſt;
if from that quarter it veers to the fouth, its conti-
nuance there will not be long, but returning, recommences
its unwelcome ſhowers. When the wind fhifts from W.
to N. in this event it rains gently for two or three days;
thereafter the atmoſphere clearing up, the weather becomes
dry and chilly, and continues fo as long as the north
wind prevails. With eaſterly winds there is always dry
ferene weather here, having little or no change to the con-
trary. During the fouth wind the weather is favourable;
but no fooner does it veer to the weft, and continues to
blow hard, than in a few hours it begins to rain. Notwith-
ſtanding
*Harvest 1771 was favourable, the crop was good, and fafely got in.
A very great fall of ſnow took place in the beginning of January 1772,
which continued with intervals until near the end of March; intenſe froß
fucceeded in April; ſo that, notwithſtanding almoft the whole crop, and
all the provender had been given to the cattle, yet more than one third of
the live ſtock of this pariſh died. Harvest 1782 was very bad; very little
of the crop was fecured. It was mostly loft, being covered with fnow.
Spring 1783 was more favourable than that of 1772, confequently leſs lofs
of cattle. At this very time, viz. September 24. 1793, the barley is not
cut down, therefore a very late harveft is dreaded.
of Affint.
189
ftanding that fuch in general is the climate here, yet there
is a confiderable difference betwixt the heavineſs of ſhowers
and other yearly ftorms falling on the heights, in compari-
fon of thoſe which fall on the lower parts of the parish,
called Fa-un Affint; in the laſt neither ſhowers of rain, nor
ftorms of ſnow are ſo violent; whereas on the heights they
are often felt ſeverely: In fhort, fome winter ſeaſons paſs
near the ſhore, with little or no fnow, but only intenfe froft;
while at the fame time, the fartheft inland end of Slish-
a-chiliſh, and the whole heights of this pariſh, groan under
a load of both. But though the climate be thus rainy,
and the air moiſt during deluges ſuch as have been defcri-
bed, yet upon ceafing of the rain, a ſmart eaſterly wind
arifing, and continuing for the fpace of 24 hours, will per-
fectly abate the waters, carry off all fuperfluous rain from
the ſurface, and moiſture from the air. That the weather
here is very changeable cannot be denied; fometimes very
ferene and pleaſant, but oftener the reverſe, which is
the ſtate of all places in fuch northern latitudes, abound-
ing with lofty hills, as this parish does. However, that the
air here is healthful will eafily be admitted, as it is a fact
well known, that people from South Britain, and from the
Ifle of Man, have lived comfortably here; and, at this
very time, natives of the Eaſt and Weſt Indies refide in
this parish, enjoying perfect health, acquiring a habit and
conſtitution of body almoſt equally robuft as that of the
natives.
There are at preſent here the ſame diſeaſes which pervade
other places, ſuch as chincough, meafles, and fmall-pox. Ino-
culation is not yet univerfally introduced, on account of
vulgar prejudice. Among the numerous inhabitants who
dwell along Sliſh-a-chi-liſh and Row-ftore, to Inverkirk-
ag river, fevers and diarrhoeas fometimes prevail, owing,
as is faid, to cold fiſhing ſeaſons. In the 1768, there
3
was
190
Statistical Account
was indeed a very infectious epidemical fever, which
having been introduced from other places, cut off a
great number, the ftouteft and moft vigorous in the ſpace
of three days, others in that of four; if the infected furvi-
ved the fifth, eſpecially the feventh day, they generally
eſcaped.
Inftances of Longevity.—Mrs Chriftian Gray, daughter
of the Reverend Mr Alexander Gray, (the late learned and
worthy Epifcopal parfon here), died at the age of 100
years at leaſt. The narrator faw and often converfed with
her for one or two years after his admiffion in the 1765.
She retained the memory of every thing of importance
that came within her knowledge to the very cloſe of life.
Hugh Matthiſon, tenant in Baddy-danoch by Loch-Inver,
was, by his own account, 95 years of age. He enjoyed
good health, and went a fiſhing in his little boat until within
fome few days of his death.
John Mackenzie, tenant in Clafhmore, fays, that he
is at the cloſe of 100 years at leaſt. He can fill threſh
corn, and do other domeftic affairs.
Mrs Mackenzie of Glenlerag, who died much about
1767, faw the fourth generation lineally defcended from
her. She was upwards of 100 years, and retained her me-
mory, &c. to her death.
State of Property: Whether changeable or not.-The
property of this parish has perhaps undergone as few chan-
ges as any. Tradition, and even documents declare *,
that,
*Thefe documents are in the archives of the prefent noble proprietors
of this parish; and if the narrator remembers well, Sir Robert Gordon of
Gordonstoun hints at this fact, in his hiftory of that ancient family.
of Affint.
191
:
*.
that it was a foreft of the ancient Thanes of Sutherland.
One of theſe prime Thanes gave it in vaffalage to one
Mac-Kry-cul, who, in ancient times, held the coaft of
Coigach, that part of it at the place preſently (1793)
called the village of Ullapool * The Noble Thane
made Affint over in the above manner, as Mac-Kry-cul
had recovered a great quantity of cattle, carried off
from the county of Sutherland by foreign invaders †.
Mac-Kry-cul's family, by the fate of war in thoſe days
of old, being reduced to one heir-female, fhe was gi-
ven in marriage to a younger fon of Macleod, laird of
Lewis, the Thane of Sutherland confenting thereto; and
alſo making this parish over to the new married couple,
together with its fuperiority. The refult of this marriage
was fourteen fucceffive lairds here of the name of Macleod ‡.
In 1660, or about that time, this parish and its fuperiority
became the property of the Earl of Seaforth, who made it
over to a younger ſon of his family, whofe fucceffors poffef-
fed it for three or four generations: Thereafter it was pur-
chafed by Lady Strathnaver, who gave it as a preſent to
her Noble and no lefs deferving grandfon, the late Wil-
liam Earl of Sutherland, father of the prefent Right Ho-
nourable Countefs of Sutherland, married to Earl Gower,
heir apparent to the Marquis of Stafford. Thus the barony
and
*Larich, Teay, Mackry-cul is ftill known at Ullapool village, i. c.
That very spot where Mac-Kry-cul had his houfe is known.
Scandinavians, who burnt the great fir forefts on all this and adje
⚫ent coaſts.
The short manuſcript hiftory of thefe gentlemen the narrator read.
He thinks it may be found in the library of the late Roderick Macleod,
Efq; of Cadboll, a lineal deſcendant of the lairds of Affint,
د
192
Statistical Account
and parish of Affint reverted to the Noble family whe
gave it to Mac-Kry-cul *.
$
Heritors.-The late good Earl William having got Af
fint, foon thereafter granted wadfets or feus, to the
number of fix. The gentlemen who held them firſt, re-
fided on the coaft of Sutherland by Dornoch, &c. None
of them have their abode here.
Inftances of good and bad Seafons.-The moſt remarkable
inftances of bad feaſons are the following: In 1766, when
the
*Mac-Kry-cul is reported by the people here to be the potent man,
of whom are defcended the Macnicols, Nicols, and Nicolfons.
This Noble family, in refpect of antiquity, is equal to any. Some
are of opinion, that a prince or chieftain of the German Celti (whom the
Roman hiſtorian mentions, Tac. ger. 30. 1.) was progenitor of it. Be
that as it will, it is fact that the county of Sutherland, in the Gaelic lan-
guage is called Shir-ri-acht-chatt; the natives, by the fame language, are
denominated Chattick; and the Earl called Mor-ir-chatt. Further,
there is early mention of the Thanes of Sutherland in Bucha-
nan's hiſtory of Scotland; for proof of this the hiftory of the ufurper
Macbeth may be read, who, to poffefs the Crown, affaffinated his own
coufin, King Duncan I. and put to death foon thereafter the Thanes of
Caithness, Sutherland, Rofs, and Nairn, &c. in the year 1043. However,
the furvivors of thefe Thanes, conjoining with the other great chieftains
of Scotland, expelled the ufurper, and placed Malcolm III. on the throne
of his fathers, Buchanan's Hiftory, B. 6. and 7. It appears alfo from
the 9th book of fame hiftorian, that in the year 1370, or thereby,
King David II. preferred Alexander, fon to the Earl of Sutherland, by
faid David's fecond fifter, to fuccced him as King of Scotland; the nobi
Aity accordingly fwore fealty to him; but Alexander dying foon after,
the King was reconciled to Robert Stewart, the fon of his eldeſt fifter.
In short, this Noble family always concurred in promoting and effecting
the general good and happineſs of the ſtate or kingdom. As evidence of
this, read Dr Smollet's hiſtory of 1715, vol. 1o. where the patriotic con-
duct of John Earl of Sutherland, in the Houfe of Peers, againſt the Earl
of Anglefy, &c, will appear confpicuous.
of Affint.
193
the narrator came here, the crop was loft, alſo the peats al-
moft. In fpring 1772, in confequence of the preceding
indifferent harveft, one-fourth part of the cattle perished.
In particular, the cafe was, That a great ſtorm of ſnow
came on in the beginning of January; it continued off and
on till the beginning of April, when it was carried away
fuddenly by a great and uncommon deluge of rain. Froft
continued throughout April: In a word, though all the
provender, and even the corn was given, the cattle periſh-
ed. The 1782 was bad; but nothing fo diftreffing as the
laft mentioned. This fame 1793 has been diftreffing through-
out the whole of it; the crop is for the moſt part damaged,
and the beſt of it hurt. In fhort, by obſervation, the narra-
tor can truly fay, that every 9th or 10th year turns out di-
ftreffing, either by loſs of crop, lofs of cattle, perhaps both, if
the ſpring proves not favourable; and in the fame proportion
of years preſently mentioned, there is generally a failure of
credit by drovers in more or lefs degree; for, as they drive
all the cattle fold here, and other neighbouring northern
pariſhes, to the fouthern markets, they muft neceffarily feel
the effects of bad feafons and times; and fuch is the cafe
here at preſent. The intermediate years betwixt every
9th or 10th year, are, upon the whole, not to be com-
plained of.
Crop of the whole Parish, &c. and Number of Souls.-The
crop of the whole parish confifts of oats, the ſmall black
kind, of barley and potatoes. When good years occur, the
produce of all theſe, on the heights of the parish, may fuffice
for fix or ſeven months at moft. For the lower parts, and
along the whole coaft, it will probably ferve for ten
months; and in caſe of a good herring-fiſhing, and plenty
of them ſecured for family conſumption, the year may paſs
tolerably well in this quarter. But in bad years, no leſs
VOL. XVI.
B.b
than
·
194
Statistical Account
than 1500 bolls at leaft, (and that uſed with the greateft
economy, as an addition to what may remain of the pro-
duce here), will ferve the whole pariſh, which the narrator
believes to contain 3000 fouls. The people refiding on
the height, though by far the fewer, will confume more
victual, in proportion to their number, than thoſe of the
low coaſt will uſe; and this by reaſon of the more or leſs
fupply of fish from the fea contiguous to them, which the
inhabitants of the height can have no advantage by.
Price of Victual and Provifions. The price of victual
has of late years rifen very much. About twenty years
ago, the writer of this account has known the boll of
victual fold for 8 s. Sterling; a live wedder at 5 s.; the
ftone of butter, equal to 24 lb, English weight, fold at 6 s.
Cheeſe per ftone, at 2 s. 6d. fometimes at 3 s.; a good fat
Highland cow at L. 1, 15 s. or thereby; but now the caſe is
very much reverſed. The victual now-a-days draws here,
communibus annis, L. 1 Sterling at least per boll, if import-
ed, expence, &c. included. If carried from the county of
Sutherland, or that of Rofs, in this cafe, fervants, horfes
and harneſs, with tear and wear, muſt be prepared, and will
be either five or fix days betwixt going and returning. At
this very day fhepherds draw from 13s. to 15 s. for a good
wedder. The butter fetches 10 s. per ftone; cheeſe per
ftone 4 s. and fometimes 5 s. The price of black cattle is
very changeable here, as already hinted at in the preceding
page, and the reafon for it is the inftability of droving,
Further, it may be eafily obferved and admitted, that the
multiplicity of licenſed ftills in the low corn-counties, tend
greatly to the rather too great increafing price of victual.
Wages, &c. and Price of Labour.-Wages to domeſtic
fervants is not high here; one with the other included will
,not
of Affint.
195
not exceed L. 1 Sterling per annum. The great concern of the
farmer, or any other head of a family here, is to provide
proviſions, cloathing, bedding, &c. for his herds, milk-
maids, &c. The dearneſs of theſe ſeveral articles, together
with the expence and trouble of carriage, mentioned above,
is the reaſon why the fees of domeftic fervants cannot be
fo high in this as in corn-pariſhes. Of old times, and at
this very day, there is a proverb uſed in the Highlands,
which, when tranflated, expreffes literally, That it is
for decent food and accommodation, and not for wages,
they (domeftic fervants) ferve. Labour by the day is ac-
counted high, being 8 d. 10 d. &c.; and therewith they
are fed thrice a-day. The reaſon why day labourers are
ſo high in their demand, is, that all thoſe not ſerving in fa-
milies always reſort to the numerous fishing-veffels on the
coaft, where men well fkilled in packing, may gain at
leaft 2s. per day; ftrong old women, and induftrious laffes,
Is. 6 d. per day, by gutting the herrings.
Caves and Pigeons.-There is a very large one in Lofty-
fu-il-vine, another at Knockan; alſo a very fpacious one at
Cul-kin-ach-na-karnan, Go-an-dun-an, otherwife called,
Go-na-kal-man. This cave is no great diſtance from the
point or land-end of Row-ſtore. Beſides theſe there are ma-
ny more; to fuch, and to the clefts of rocks, the pigeons
refort to hatch and for ſhelter. There are no other dove-
cotes here.
Woods.
* Go-an-dun-an, called fo by reafon of its being near the remains of a
dune, built by Scandinavians, when upon their being defeat near Dor-
noch, and in the adjacent parts of the county of Rofs. To that place they
reforted, and built a dune. Then they burned the large fir-forests of
Affint, &c. Go-na-kal-man, i. e. the Pigeon-cove. The Scandinavians ha
ving built a large bire-lin or ſhip, they went to their own country,
196
Statiſtical Account
i
Woods.-There are fome birch-trees thinly ſcattered.
here and there by the coaft of Slifh-a-chi-liſh, all along.
from Unapool to Oldney, both places included. There is
alſo of the fame kind in many different thin plots, far
diſtant from one another, from Oldney to Inver-kirk-
ag; but this laſt mentioned tract lies at the diſtance of
at leaſt two long miles from the coaft. From Poul-a-gar-
vir, on the fouth fide of Inver river, thence along in an
eaſt direction by Lower and Upper Tubegges winterings,
there are woods of the fame kind. In like manner, there
is from Little Affint, towards Tumore, the north fide of
Loch Affint. The whole woods, though of no great value,
are of confiderable importance to the parish, as, in time of
great ſtorms and falls of ſnow, every ſpecies of cattle re-
fort to them for fhelter; nay, they browfe on the copfe;
however, there are in many places fome flender trees,
which, if preſerved, as now by the prefent factor, will cer-
tainly anſwer the end which. the late good Earl had in
view; which was, that theſe woods fhould repair and build
the houſes of all his Lordship's tenants, alſo the office-houſes
of wadfetters and feuers, in the event they thought proper
to build here for themſelves *.
Gardens, &c.-There are fmall gardens, which afford
cabbages, &c. but there are no orchards.
Kelp, &c.-There is no kelp made here. The little
fea-ware that is, grows within the harbours formerly men-
tioned; all the remaining part of the coaſt is either bold or
fhallow, confequently no fea-weed can grow there, though
occafionally fome looſe fea-weed may come in.
The
*All this the narrator heard from Mr Gilchrift, Colonel Sutherland,
2nd Mr Rofe, factors.
of Affint.
197
1
The farmers houfes along the whole coaft being built
either oppofite or adjacent to the harbours, for that very
reaſon the late Noble Earl thought it of greater general
good, that the ſeveral farms ſhould have the fea-ware to
improve the uncultivated heathy furface, and thereby add
to the comfortable fubfiftence of his tenants, rather than any
trifling pittance whatever that might be offered to his
Lordfhip's factors; and the fame plan the preſent Nable
proprietors have adopted.
Fisheries, &c.-Herring-fiſhing has been formerly dif
cuffed. But it is a fact, that ſeveral years paft a very de-
cent, devout, and beneficent man, one Mr Richard Keld,
(he was one of a fishing company at Whitby), came to this
coaſt, having two floops, purpofely to make trial of cod
and ling fiſhing. His principal ſtation he fixed at Cul-
kin-drumbaig; yet, though rather late in his fetting out
from Whitby, he fucceeded well. He meant to have taken
a feu of fome acres there, with intention to build a fiſhing
ſtation. For that purpoſe his intention was communicated
by the narrator to Colonel James Sutherland, of Uppall,
then factor; but the fhips belonging to his company ha-
ving been taken up in government-ſervice as victuallers
at the commencement of our differences with our Ameri-
can colonies, Mr Keld's defign did not take place. Mr
Keld, after having returned to England, exchanged one or
two letters with the narrator, wherein he ſays, that though
by reaſon of his late fetting out for the fiſhing ground, he
was short of his complement, yet that the quality of his
cod
*The late Earl made the tour of Affint; from Ledbeg his Lordship
went to Unapool; thence by boat to Clachtoll, where he and his nume
rous attendants past a night; from Clachtoll by boat to Loch Invers
thence to Ledbeg by Eravine road; thence to Dunrobin Caſtle.
198
Statiſtical Account
*
cod and ling made up for all, cleared expence, and return-
ed a little profit.
Ferries.-There is no ferry here; the only one that
would be neceffary, is one at Unapool of Affint, by Kilis-
cu-ig to Edrachiliſh, or vice verfa.
Seamen.-Properly ſpeaking, there are no fuch here;
but if tugging an oar in a boisterous fea can be called the
accompliſhment of feamen, in this event all the tenants of
the preſent Noble proprietors along coaft are feamen.
Ale-boufes, Inns, and Police, &c.-No ale-houfes here, nor
inns, except honeſt tenant's houſes, at certain diſtances here
and there, on the ſeveral tracks or roads not cleared up,
where the weary traveller may now get a good, clean,
Highland woollen plaid, and a comfortable pallet or couch
to fleep on. There are no bridges betwixt Affint and
Dornoch, nor one betwixt Affint and Tain, excepting that
called the bridge of Grug-ag, near Kincardine, Rofsfhire.
If there were bridges, the road is well opened to Brae of
Strath-Okel; but thence to Affint is a very fatiguing
length; no houſes; none of accommodation; that whole
tract to Affint, is a perfect wilderneſs; the whole is fheep-
farms without ftages.
Number of Ships.-There are no fhips here; but many
that come to our coaft and ſafe harbours, do well for them-
felves and owners. Lieutenants Mackenzie of Ledbeg,
and Scobie of Crom-auld, hire a floop from Leith yearly,
(and that but of late), to carry away their falmon, and
fome herrings which they attempt to cure, in order to
make up the lading of the veffel. One John Mackenzie,
tackſman of Inver, and George Rofs, tackſman of Baddy-
I
naban,
of Affint.
199
naban, cure, each of them, from one to two hundred bar-
rels of herrings, as the fishing feafon is favourable, or the
reverſe.
Ancient State of Population.-This parish having been a
foreſt; having undergone as few changes as any whatever
of its extent; it is eaſy to ſuppoſe, that though mankind
were at firft but few, they would gradually increaſe; be-
fides, civilization being introduced by the fucceffive pro-
prietors. Alſo, that by far the greater number of inha-
bitants were fituated on the coaft, and having harbours,
therefore the common fkill, knowledge, and induſtry of
the natives, together with their beft exertions engaged to
reduce a rugged foil; to fuch endeavours, the health, the
fupport, and equal increaſe of the inhabitants are owing.
The narrator is perfectly perfuaded in his own mind, that
the natives are a third more numerous than when he firſt
came in 1766; which increaſe, under the bleffing of God,
the narrator aſcribes to the cauſes prefently mentioned, as
alfo to the benignity of the fucceffive landlords or fuperiors.
The prefent number of inhabitants, including young and
old folks, is thought to be 3000.
Divifion of Inhabitants, &c.—There are no religious
divifions here; the inhabitants are of the Eſtabliſhed
Church; excepting a few not natives, particularly the
gentlewomen mentioned in a preceding part of this ac-
count, vix. one from the Eaft, the other from the Weſt
Indies. Whatever occupation a man may follow here, he
is more or leſs engaged in labouring the ground, tends a
few cattle of one kind or other, which is the principal
means of living. There is but one ſmith, and he can only
fabricate iron as an edging to the crooked and ſtraight
fpades formerly noticed, as alſo the few coulters and plough-
fhares
200
Statistical Account
fhares uſed here; but he has no ſkill to fhoe a horſe, which,
when any have bufinefs to go to the low countries, either
Sutherland or Rofs county, is vaftly inconvenient.
Uninhabited Houfes. Of theſe there are two in a great
ftate of decay, viz. the caſtle of Ardvrack, the refidence of
Donald-Bane-More Macleod, laird of Affint; it was built
in the 1597 or 1591; the figures are rather worn.
It was
a place of ftrength and defence in its day.
The other houſe was built by the Earl of Seaforth's fon,
in a modern manner, of an elegant figure, and great ac-
commodation. It had fourteen bed-chambers, with the
conveniency of chimnies or fire-places. Both houfes are
fituated by the north fide of Loch Affint, and not far from
the parish kirk.
Number of Cattle, &c.-It was formerly mentioned, that
this barony and pariſh was divided into 32 oxgates of land.
Some of them are more, and others are lefs rated by the
old valued rent, as they may have been judged of greater
or leſs value, according to the extent, &c. However, it
is highly probable that the following calculation may be
pretty fure. Then, taking all the oxgates, one with the
other, at an average 120 to each :
ift, Of the cow-kind, including calves,
3840
2d, of horſes in fame manner, including their foals
and fillies,
384
3840
3d, Of theep, including lambs, in fame manner,
4th, Of goats, one oxgate with another, 32 per
oxgate, in fame manner,
Total number of cattle, &c.
1024
9088
There are no fwine here.
Coal
}
i
201
of Affint.
Coal and Fuel.-The height of this parish abounds with
limeſtone. There is no faying but coals may be under it,
if the vaſt quantity of moor and mofs above it may be
confumed. It were to be wished that a trial was made, as
the drying and fecuring of fuel is *, for the most part, a
very troubleſome and an expenfive affair. What are called
peats are only uſed here.
The Rent of the Parish.-The old valued rent of this
parish is 4000 merks Scots, exclufive of the few falmon-
fiſhing rivers already mentioned. The real prefent rent is
about L. 1000 Sterling.
Iron Mines.-Iron mines were dug here of old. The
ore was alſo ſmelted in different places of this pariſh; but
the vaſt woods being confumed by Scandinavian invaſions,
it was of courſe given up; but if coal were found, that
work might be ſtill tried. At Tubeg particularly, thefe
mines were dug, &c.; charcoal was plentifully got, the
bounds being one thick foreft. John Sinclair, ftill living,
found a piece of iron; it was of fhape roundifh; it was not
caft into bars then; it weighed from 17 to 20 pounds.
weight. This John Sinclair and his after caufed the
fmith to work it as (caibs) edgings for labouring imple-
ments.
Marble. There is plenty of marble at Ledbeg, Ry-an-
tra-id, and Ardvare, clofe by the Kilis, c.
State of the Church, &c. Schools.-The church and
manfe had a very flight repair feven or eight years ago;
VOL. XVI.
Cc
fo
i. e. Peats, or mofs cut iu a quadrangular manner, and dried in the
open air, and then fecured,
202
Statistical Account
:
fo flight, indeed, that owing to the very high winds which
occafionally prevail here, many of the flates of both are dri-
ven or fallen off, and the rain gets in, particularly into the
manfe, and the glafs windows of both kirk and manſe are
greatly injured. At fame time that kirk and manfe were
repaired, there was a very decent parochial ſchool-houfe
built; the windows now require a repair of glaſs, and the
roof that of a little thatch. Winds occafionally blow ex-
tremely high here. There are two preaching places, one
at Achnahiglafh, otherwife called Kirktown; the other
preaching place at Torbreck, one Engliſh mile diſtant from
Loch-Inver. The distance betwixt Achnahiglafh and
Torbreck is eight long computed miles.
The minifter's flipend was, a few years ago, augmented.
It amounts to L. 87: 4: 4 Sterling, and L. 3 Sterling to
furnish communion-elements; in all, L. 90: 4:43. There
is no victual-ftipend; and to fay truth, no fuch could
at the preſent period and ſtate of agriculture be expected.
But the providing of victual must be of great expence to
every minifter here. The glebe is half an oxgate of land;
the grafs part of it is diftinct by itſelf; partly rocky and
mountainous; the lower part, or fields, is what is here.
called run-rig*. The glebe goes by the name, The half
oxgate of Ca-more. The prefent incumbent caufed build.
a very litttle Highland mill, of the fimpleft conſtruction,
on the north fide of Fraligal river, and on a particular part
of the glebe there. The victual of whatever kind is car-
ried at a vaſt expence, and grounded here, and faves the
expence of a fervant.
Within
* That is, half of every little field. The glebe halfs are for moſt part
next the grafs of the glebe. It would be defirable that thefe low grounds
or fields were divided into two equal halves, and not run-rig, as it
would have a tendency towards improvement. The prefent minifter has
launched too much on reducing and improving the furface of his farm and
glebe.
of Affint.
203
Within less than one year preceding this (1794) date,
there are two ſchoolmasters; the parochial; the other very
humanely granted by the Honourable Society for propa-
gating Chriſtian Knowledge. The former has L. 8:6:8
Sterling yearly falary; the latter L. 12, which was obtained
by the application of a few gentlemen graziers here, and
the narrator gave his concurrence.
Marriages, &c.-The neareſt account that can be given,
after ſtrict enquiry, is the following, viz. 10 marriages and
20 baptifms, communibus annis.
Burial Grounds.-As for burial places, at a confiderable
diſtance one from the other, there are no leſs than fix. 1ft,
At Ach-na-hi-glafh, or Kirktown; 2d, At Ged-a-vo-lich,
by the weft of Loch-Nedd; 3d, At Ardvare, where, as
formerly faid, there is plenty of marble under the heather,
which indeed the narrator came accidentally to know of, as
hehappened to be travelling alone, and miffed the road-track;
4th, At Oldney Ifland; 5th, At the farm of Store; 6th,
At Inver farm, near the entry of Inver river to the har-
bour of fpacious Loch Inver. All theſe burial places are,
for the most part, inclofed with a dry ftone fence. The
inhabitants have a regard for the memory of their de-
parted friends and relations, perfectly detached from what
we call idolatry, as it only confifts in doing all the good
poffible to the furvivers of the departed.
State of the Poor, and their Funds.—Properly ſpeaking,
though many here are poor, they cannot be reprefented as
a burden to the parish. The natives are all connected by
alliance. When any one becomes old and feeble, their
neareſt relations build a little comfortable houfe for them,
clofe
204
Statistical Account
cloſe to their own refidence; and even there the diftaff and
fpindle is well managed. Thefe old matrons nue the
children of their relations; the fongs and airs of Fingal,
and ancient heroes, are fung in the Gaelic tongue, to which
the little children dance.
Old men are prudently engaged in fome domeſtic affair,
fuch as repairing the houſes of the neighbouring tenants,
c. In short, they ſhare with their relatives all the viands
of the family.
A
At this period, the pooreft ftranger, even though unac-
quainted, finds charity and ſafe ſhelter. But there is a
very great diſtance (and now no places as of old) in the
wilderneſs betwixt this parish and the inn at Brea of
Strathokell. Such being the condition of the poor in
Affint parish, there are no public funds. The little trifle
of money that is collected every Sabbath day after divine
worship is ferved, is yearly diftributed amongst the moſt
friendleſs and deferving poor.
Eminent Men.-There are none fuch here in point of
grandeur and wealth, except the proprietors. There were
indeed, men of confiderable and acknowledged education,
literature, poliſhed manners, and hofpitality, viz. Mr
Mackenzie, late of Ardloch, and Mr Roderick Macleod,
late of Ledmore. But the narrator fhould have mentioned
as the first, a gentleman whom he never faw, but heard of
his character, and that was the Reverend Mr Alexander
Gray, the laft Epifcopal parfon here. He, by all accounts,
was an eminent claffical fcholar. He could fluently ſpeak
the European languages of his day, for which reaſon he
was preferred as travelling governor to John Earl of Su-
therland, when his Lordship made the tour of Europe. It
is faid the Highlanders in friendly converfation called him,
An-Feal-a-roy, i. e. The red-haired Lord.
A
of Affint.
205
*
A few high military characters might be mentioned;
but fuch are preſently paffed by, as the naming of them
would fwell this tedious account too much.
Antiquities.It is at leaſt preſumable, if not highly pro-
bable, that Scandinavian idolatry did prevail here. The
reaſon for entertaining this opinion is, that in iſland Old-
ney there is a confiderable cairn of ftones, which might
originally have been a little temple; in that cairn is yet
to be ſeen a hollowed ſtone, having a lid, or cover of ſtone ;
it is not a Popiſh font, for this reafon, that one Donald
Macleod, alias Machomaſh, once refidenter on Oldney-
mainland, and other old men in the neighbourhood, all of
them honeft undefigning men, declared to the narrator,
that about 60 years ago there was a round ſtone within
the hollowed one, of the fize and ſhape of a large egg, for
which eſpecially, as alfo for the adjacent burial ground
there, they and their forefathers had the greateſt venera-
tion: That the above old people faw that round ſtone:
That on account of its variegated minute colours of bright
and fhade, it was always fhown to ftrangers: That it was
ftolen, or privately taken away by a feafaring man, to
whom, in the ufual manner, it was fhown as a curiofity.
Whether that round ftone was or was not the ſtone of Loda,
mentioned by the immortal Offian, the narrator leaves to
be decided by reſearchers in antiquities; however, that no
lefs ancient bard than ſweet, fings of "Sniven and the
"ſtone of power." The occafion was, Starno King of
Lochlin, having been defeated by Fingal,
*
Calls old Snivan,
Who oft had fung around the stone of power,
And oft, when Lochlin's fons were known to yield,
He turn'd the ftream of battle on the field.
There
* Vol. II. Book 3. at the beginning of Offian's Poems, tranflated by
Ar Wodrow, late miniſter of Islay.
206
Statistical Account
There is the cleareft evidence of the Druids having been
here in times of old, as to this day there is on the bounds
of Clachtoll farm (three miles directly inland from that
fhore) a prodigious pile of huge ftones cloſe by a great rock,
having an entry through no lefs than we moderns would
call two half-moons; next appears an entry by a porch.
The narrator made an excurfion from Torbreck to the
very place; he wished to have entered; but ſmall ſtones
and earth had fo much filled up the entry, that he could
not make his way. However, a boy who attended went in.
He had in command not to go farther than the first apart-
ment he ſhould meet, for fear of miffing his way in return.
Having returned, he reported, that there were feveral
paffages off the large room, into which he entered, and
that he thought theſe by appearance led to different cham-
bers. This ancient ruin, in the Gaelic language, is at this
very period called, Ty-tal-vine-na-drui-nich, i. e. The
earthly habitation of the Druids *.
Further, at Ledbeg, a Druidical pruning hook was
found feveral years ago, in time of peat-cutting. No per-
fon here could tell what it was, or intended for, until the
prefent Earl of Bristol, then Bishop of Derry, happened, in
courfe of his northern excurfion, to paſs a few days and
nights in this parish. It having been ſhown to his Lord-
fhip, he inftantly declared it, a Druidical pruning hook.
His Lordship further added, that feveral fuch were found
in England, and to be ſeen in the muſeums of the literati
there. If the narrator remembers, Dr T. Smollet, author
of the hiftory of South Britain, (vol. I. at the very begin-
ning) makes mention of the Druids and their pruning
hooks, with which they did yearly cut the oak miſletoe,
thereby
* The natives here traditionally tell, that the Druids had the knowledge
to make beer of the crop of heather, and to cure every wound.
:
!
of Affint.
207
thereby pretending to foretel either a favourable feafon,
or the reverſe. Mrs Mackenzie of Ardloch made a prefent
of this Druidical hook to his Lordſhip.
Adjacent to the prefent parochial kirk is to be ſeen the
only remaining part of the firft of that kind that was built
here. The cafe was, one Æneas, or Angus Macleod, laird
of Affint, having gone to Rome to vifit the Pope; and the
Pontiff conferring favours, the laird in return vowed, that
when he returned to Affint, he would build and endow a
kirk, which the laird performed, to the amount of the fifth
part of his then yearly rent. The only veftige of this an-
cient building is a vault, a burial place; it is high arched.
The preſent Mr Macleod of Geanies, Sheriff-depute of the
county of Rofs, as immediate defcendent of theſe lairds,
gave it a repair a few years ago, but not to the better, as:
one William Cowie, from Tain, employed, pulled down
an upper apartment which was over the arch, which the
natives reported to be a place for private devotion. Heath
now grows on the top of the arch.
of
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.-The Highland girls of this
pariſh for the moſt part marry at the age of betwixt 16
and 21 years; the lads at that of betwixt 20 and 25. There
are ſome inſtances of women bearing children to the age
50 years at leaſt. It is no uncommon fight to ſee a grand-
mother give her breast to her own grandchild to fuckle.
Some fond mothers nurſe their children for two years.
Other mothers nurſe their infants for three; and truly the
narrator has ſeen a boy at his mother's breaft at the age of
four years, and then break hafle-nuts under his teeth.
As for dunes, there are fome to be ſeen here: 1ſt, That
very large one at Clachtoll, clofe by the fea, towards the
farm of Store. It exceeds by far any of the kind the nar-
rator ever faw. Three circular out-works at regular di
ftances, furround it on the land-fide; the boisterous ecean
2
defends
}
208
Statistical Account
2
defends it on that quarter towards the offing. This dune,
if any, is worthy of taking a draught of.
2dly, There is one at Clafhneffy, built on the clefts of
two rocks, which ſtretch out into the turbulent ſea there.
3dly, There are ruins of a dune in the middle of Loch-
Ardvare; the great dune, one at Achamore, the other at
Achnaheglaſh, have been taken away to build office-houſes
and fences. Befides the above dunes, there are alſo to be
feen here Cairns, i. e. great heaps of ftones; they are cir-
cular at the baſe, and raiſed in the centre, forming, in fome
manner, the figure of a cone. The traditional account of
them is, That they were the fepulchres of the ancient na-
tives, to prevent the then numerous wolves from devour-
ing the bodies of their departed relations. In fupport of
this account, there is even to this day a Gaelic phraſe com-
mon here, and among all Highlanders, viz." Mo vis mih
“beo, dei do vas, cara miſh cloich, er do charn-nan;” i. e.
"If I be alive after your death, I will carefully lay a ftone
"on your cairn," i. e. grave.
,
The volcanic influence feems to have had effect here.
This opinion is founded on the following particulars: On
the bounds of Inchnadaff farm, near its march with that of
Stronchruby, not fifty yards from the highway, is to be
feen a very large piece of limeftone, or rather lime, that
fuffered fufion, for it. has fome large common granite ftones
firmly fixed in it. In fome parts of its fuperficies it is full
of pores, and black. In fhort, it has all the appearance of
having fuffered the greateſt poffible heat. Is this the effect
of a volcano, or is it not? Again, from Loch Ah, near
Layne, a river iffues, which holds its courfe fometimes
through mofs. gravel, and ſplintered rocks, at length it en-
ters into Loch Affint at Inchnadaff; all the track from
this laft mentioned to Layne, being five Engliſh miles,
abounds with limestone in different forms; but on the op-
I
pofite
of Affint.
200
pofite fide of the river Ah, there is not the fmalleſt piece
of limestone to be found. It only abounds with heather,
moors, bogs, and high rocky hills: This fevering of the
high limestone rocks from the oppofite mountainous bleak
hills, joined with the confideration of the river's channel
above mentioned, can hardly be accounted for but by a-
fcribing them to fome uncommon convulfion of nature.
Character of the People, &c.-They are in general civil
fober, and hofpitable to a high degree; but they begin
now to obſerve, that neither they themſelves, nor their
fervants, meet equal returns of kindneſs and attention
when abroad, as they anxiously afford here in their
own homely manner. They are patient of hunger, cold,
and fatigue, by fea and land, as emergencies may require.
In general, they are ſerious and devout, and do not approve,
but highly diflike the contrary character wherever ſeen;
yet, when imprudently provoked or infulted, they will
fhew themſelves not devoid of refentment. They are
now becoming every day more induſtrious and attentive to
domeftic affairs. Their manners are fimple and chate;
few inftances, comparatively ſpeaking, have occurred here
to the contrary, for theſe twenty-five years paſt; and
when they have happened, they were candidly acknow-
ledged.
A
Their ftated cuftoms are few. In time of the holidays,
relations and neighbouring families mutually viſit, are inno-
cently chearful and facetious. In the proper ſeaſon of the
year they repair to the low-country markets to fell cattle,
and other produce of their farms; in return, they carry
home victual, and other articles neceffary for their families.
The ftature of the inhabitants is in general of the
middle fize. Middle fize here is called five feet five or fix
VOL. XVI.
D d
inches.
i
210
Statiſtical Account
inches. There are ſome fix feet high, and but a few above.
that ftandard.
Advantages and Diſadvantages.-The greateſt advanta-
ges of this parish are, that it moftly lies on a coaft having
fome harbours, &c. Its great diſadvantages are, that the
climate is both ſtormy and rainy, eſpecially at the heights
of the parish, &c. as particularly defcribed in a preceding
part of this account.
By what means the Situation of the Inhabitants and Parish
· might be meliorated. By good roads and decent inns. If a
road were opened from Lairg by Braemore of that pariſh;
thence by Rofehall, Tu-tom-tar-vach, by Finvin, and Garva-
chirn, thence to Auld-an-na-kal-gach, the prefent march of
this parish with Balnagown property; any perfon would
walk eafily enough betwixt Dunrobin and this parish of a
fhort day. Beſides roads carried on in Affint, and inns built, a
few bridges would be neceffary. One ſtore-houſe, if not two;
at Loch-Inver one; at Unapool another; the former would
be fufficient to ferve the low, the latter to ferve the higher
parts of Slifh-a-chilifh, and inhabitants of the height. The
victual of the Honourable proprietors put up in theſe ſtore-
houſes would prevent the exorbitant prices of importers,
and fecure the money to the former. People of enterprize,
character, and credit, defirous of profecuting fisheries and
manufactures, should be encouraged to fettle in all places
where there are harbours, for there is command of mofs
and water-falls along the coaft, alfo plenty, or rather a pro-
fuſion of ſtone and limeſtone to build; for though there is
no limestone in the low part of the parish, if the roads were
opened, lime might be had from the height, or from Glen-
cul-edrachilish by fea; by fuch being introduced, there can
be
of Affint.
211
:.
:
!
be no faying to what great number the inhabitants might
increaſe, and live much more comfortably than they pre-
fently do. Even although gentlemen of enterpriſe ſhould
not come, villages might be built in or near the harbours,
which in courſe of time would not fail to produce the
aforefaid valuable purpoſes to the Honourable proprietors
and the people at large. By either of the above taking
place, the pariſh would find a market at home for all its
produce, and be able to make better returns. It is as eafy
and ſafe to fail to any part of the world from this coaſt,
and return to it, as any other part whatever of Great Bri-
tain. In short, the height of this parifh fhould not be de-
populated for fear of further encroachments. It is a pity
a charity ſchoolmafter were not fettled with a moderate
falary at Ned, and another at Ledmore. Preparatory to
the above fuggeſted, and other improvements, the proprie-
tors ought to fend a perfon of found judgment to view and
determine on the whole.
NUM-
212
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER IX.
1
UNITED PARISHES
OF
ESSIE AND NE VAY,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF FORFAR, PRESBYTERY OF
MEIGLE.)
By the Rev. Dr PLAYFAIR.
¡
THE
Situation and Extent.
HE parishes of Effie and Nevay, 3-4 miles from:
weſt to eaſt, and 2-3 from north to fouth, are bound-
ed on the eaſt and fouth by the parish of Glammis, on the
fouth-west by Newtyle, on the weft and north by Meigle
and Airly; lying in the prefbytery of Meigle, commiſ-
fariot of St Andrew's, fynod and county of Forfar; in
extent amounting to 8 fquare miles, that is, about 5120
English or 4096 Scotch acres; whereof about 2500 are
cultiv ed, 530 in paſture, 220 covered with wood, and the
remainder heathy and barren.
Surface
f
of Effie and Nevay.
213
:
}
:
:
{
Surface and Soil.-The northern declivity of the Sidla
hills compoſes one half of both pariſhes. The foil of this
divifion is a thin black mould, on a bottom of mortar; but,
its expofure notwithstanding, it is more fertile, and yields
earlier crops, than any part of that ridge which fronts the
fouth. Towards the fummit of the hills the foil degene-
rates, and is fit for planting or pafture only. The higheſt-
part of the fouthern boundary does not exceed 950 feet
above the level of the adjacent plain.
The foil of the lower part of the parish is various. In
Nevay, a level and marshy tract, containing fome mofs on
a ftratum of fand, is a continuation of the extenfive mofs
of Meigle. No marl has been found in the former, though
there be abundance in the latter. That tract ftretches
eaſtward to the church of Effie, and north to the Dean,
Some plots of it are cultivated; the reft affords indiffe-
rent pafture. A low and flat territory, north of Effie,
confiſts of a ſtrong and rich clay, ill cultivated, and liable
to be partially inundated by the river, which, in time of
heavy rains, overflows its low banks. To the eastward of
the church the foil is thinner, but friendly to vegetation.
Climate. A greater quantity of rain falls in this diſtrict
than in the low country fouth of Sidla. Laſt ſpring (1793)
the fields in this neighbourhood were refreſhed by co-
pious ſhowers, while the Carfe of Gowrie, and territory
to the eaſtward, remained dry and parched. The reaſon
of this difference feems to be, that all clouds and vapours
from the ſouth weſt are divided near the mouth of the river
Earn, and attracted partly by the Sidla Hills, and partly by
an elevated ridge ftretching along the north coaft of Fife;
fo that little rain from that quarter falls upon the interval
between thoſe mountains. But, favoured as Strathmore is
in this refpect, the weather in general is extremely vari-
able.
"A
214
Statistical Account
able. The fpring is late; the autumn frequently cold and
-rainy; and during winter the piercing north-eaft wind-
prevails. The mildeſt month in the year is July. Seed-
time begins about the end of March, and is concluded in
two months; the hay-harveſt is in July, and corn-harveſt
from the beginning of September to the end of October.
Rivers, &c.-The Dean, which flows from the loch of
Forfar, forms the northern boundary of Effie, and runs
weftward to the Ifla, into which it falls near Meigle. As
this deep and fluggiſh river paffes through a very level
country, there are few falls fufficient for the purpoſe of ma-
chinery. Between its fource and termination, the difference
of elevation does not exceed 40 feet in the ſpace of ten
miles. At Cookſtown, however, a mile W. N. W. of the
church of Effie, there is a corn and a lint mill, both on the
north bank of the river, and a communication to the fouth-
ward is opened by a bridge lately conftructed. This river
is noted for the large fize and delicious tafte of its trouts.
It contains alfo pike and perch, but no falmon, except a few
black fish or kelt in autumn.
A rivulet, which rifes in the hill of Nevay, and is aug-
mented by a ſmall ſtream from a drain in the marsh al-
ready mentioned, forms the weſtern limit of the parish of
Effie, and county of Forfar. In its progrefs northward it
turns a mill, below which it lofes itſelf in the Dean.
Another rivulet, called the burn of Effie, defcends from
a hill in the Sidla ridge, bathes the wall of the church-
yard, and falls into the Dean. On this rivulet there is a
lint-mill about a quarter of a mile S. E. of the church, of
the turnpike-road to Glammis. There is no lake nor ftag-
nate water in either pariſh.
Eftates.
of Effie and Nevay.
215
Eftates.-Towards the conclufion of laft century, the
names of the proprietors of both parishes were, the Earl of
Strathmore, the heirs of Lord Couper, Nevay of that Ilk,
Blair of Balthayock, and Lamy of Dunkennie. Three of
theſe families have diſappeared, two remain. The parish
of Nevay now belongs to the Right Honourable James
Stuart Mackenzie, Lord Privy Seal of Scotland; and that
of Effie is divided among five proprietors, none of whom
has a feat in the parish. The lands are under the manage-
ment of frugal, induftrious and fubftantial farmers. The
proprietor of Nevay lately granted new leaſes to his te-
nants on this and his other eſtates in Strathmore. His mo-
deration and generofity on that occafion will not be foon.
forgotten. Every occupier of a farm was fecured in the
poffeffion of it, upon condition of paying a very ſmall rife
of rent. Had the ufual methods of fcrewing and racking
tenants been adopted, the landlord might have greatly in-
creaſed his revenue; but he preferred the pleaſure of ma-
king ſeveral hundreds of people comfortable and happy.
Farms.-The extent of farms is from 50 to 500 acres.
The number of the moft confiderable is thirteen. They
are in general larger than thofe in the fame district 40
years ago. The enlargement of farms is attended with
fome diſadvantages. When cottages are demolished, their
inhabitants are conſtrained to retire to towns in queſt of
lodging and fubfiftence. When thefe nurſeries of popu-
lation fail, a fufficient number of working people cannot be
eafily procured, and the fearcity of a commodity propor-
tionally enhances its value. The want of labourers is moſt
fenfibly felt in time of harveſt. Some farmers find it ne-
ceffary to employ bands of fhearers from the north country,
who cut down the corn at the rate of 6s. or 7 s. per acre,
and as foon as this work is finiſhed, retire to the mountains.
3
In
216
Statiſtical Account
i
In a rainy feafon the hufbandman cannot always collect
day-labourers fufficient to manage and bring home the
crop, fo that part of it is fometimes loft. This inconve-
nience is never known where cottagers are one of the pro-
ductions of the foil.
The best arable land is let below 20 s. the acre. No
rent is paid per advance. No fervices are required, except
the carriage of fome coals from Dundee. A few of the
tenants have power to ſubſet; but this privilege is not ge-
nerally granted. The valued rent of both parishes is about
L. 1200 Scots; the real rent is L. 1270 Sterling.
An acre of good land well cultivated produces, in fuc-
ceffion, 10 bolls oats, peaſe 5 or 6, wheat 8, turnip valued
at L. 5 Sterling, barley 10 bolls, fown grafs 180-240
ftones of hay, befides another crop, for green feeding the
fanie feafon. The prices of grain and hay are regulated
by the market at Dundee. The expence of labour, provi-
fions and implements of hufbandry is the fame as in the
neighbouring pariſh of Meigle, (fee Vol. I. p. 515.)
Inclofures.-Inclofing and fubdividing, partly by ſtone-
walls, and partly by a ditch and bank fet with quick, were
introduced about 30 years ago by the proprietor of Nevay.
A great proportion of the whole diftrict is now incloſed
with fences of the latter kind, which fhelter the fields from
inclement blafts more effectually than ftone walls, but in a
calm and moiſt ſeaſon prevent a free circulation of air, and
thereby prove hurtful to the crop. The ditches, however,
being fufficient drains, render the fields in all feafons fit for
cultivation. The practice of pruning hedges, fo as to make
the top flat and the fides perpendicular, prevails. A bet-
ter plan has been adopted in fome neighbouring diftricts,
viz. to flope both fides gradually till they meet in a fharp
ridge at top. By this mode of dreffing a hedge, every part
of
of Effie and Nevay.
217
3
of the plant being expofed, receives its proper nouriſhment.
In Nevay, rows of trees are planted in the hedges, which
embelliſh the country, but eventually muſt be prejudi-
cial to the thorns, and the adjoining part of the fields.
Manures.-Befide the dung of the farm-yards, and com-
poſt, confifting of weeds, ditch-ſcourings, ruins of mud-
walls, &c. confiderable quantities of marl are uſed. This
excellent manure, whofe qualities and operation are now
well underſtood, is fetched from the moffes of Baikie and
Meigle. The original price is 8 d. per boll, containing 8
folid feet. Sixty bolls are allowed to an acre; but, by many
experiments formerly made in the parish of Bendochy, it
appears that a larger proportion will not injure the foil, if
it be not overcropped. Marl incorporated with compoſt an-
fwers better than when mixed with farm-yard dung. It is
ufually ſpread on the furface of fallow, or on grafs, fome
time before a field is broken up,
Live Stock.-Little attention is paid to the different
breeds of animals. 141 horfes are uſed for the purpoſes of
huſbandry; but moſt of theſe are purchaſed from diftant
counties. No black cattle are employed, though a few are
reared. Sheep are entirely baniſhed.
Mines, &c.-Near Caſtletown there is one mineral
fpring, and another on Sidla, a mile fouthward of Effie;
but their qualities and virtues are unknown. A ſmall vein
of filver ore, too inconfiderable to be wrought, was difco-
vered feveral years ago in the fouth-eaft corner of the pa-
riſh. An excellent freeftone quarry, in the pariſh of Ne-
vay, at the foot of Sidla, has been lately neglected. The
ftone is of a light grey colour, and admits of a fine poliſh.
VOL. XVI.
Ee
Fuel:
1
218
Statistical Account
Fuel.-Peats are found in the mofs of Cookſtown. The
apprited value of every cart-load, together with the ex-
pence of digging, winning, and carrying it two or three
miles, may amount to 2 s. 6 d. Three cart-loads for do-
meſtic uſe are ſcarcely equal to one boll coals of 56 ftones
avoirdupois weight, the price of which, including carriage
12 miles, is 9s. The fcarcity and dearnefs of fuel have
induced many of the inferior clafs to leave this part of the
country.
Plantations. There are few trees in this diſtrict, hedge-
rows excepted. On the eftate of Dunkennie, a mile eaſt-
ward of the church of Effie, a ſmall thriving plantation of
Scotch fir diverfifies the ſcene; and part of Sidla Hills was
planted by the late Earl of Strathmore. A plantation of
foreſt-trees on a barren tract to the westward, would be
equally ornamental and uſeful.
Houfes. There is no town nor village in Effie or Ne-
vay; for the cottages near the church of the latter do
not merit either of theſe appellations. The farm-houfes
and offices, with a few exceptions, are neatly built of fub-
ftantial mafon-work. The dwelling-loufe confifts of two
ftories covered with flate. The huts of fubtenants and me-
chanics have ſtill a mean appearance, though more com-
fortable than at a preceding period. The farmer's mode
of living is as much improved as his habitation. His at-
tire is decent, his houſehold-furniture not inelegant, and his
table plentifully ftored. In affluence he rivals the mid-
dling order of proprietors, and in hofpitality excels them.
Antiquities. About a mile weft of the church of Effie,
on the north fide of the turnpike-road through the Strath,
there is an ancient fortification, furrounded on the weft,
fouth, and eaſt fides, by a very deep and broad ditch, and
Qu
of Effie and Nevay.
219
water.
on the north by a rivulet, whence the ditch was filled with
Within a vaft earthen mound or rampart is an
area 120 yards in length, and 60 in breadth. Some anti-
quaries have aſcribed this work to the Romans; but their
route lies 2 miles northward, on the oppofite fide of the
river Dean. Some coins of Edward I. having been found
in the area, it is probable this fort, or caftle, as it is vul-
garly called, was conftructed by the army of that invader.
Vettiges of a large encampment may be traced at no great
diftance on the farm of Ingleſtown, a name which ſeems to
favour my conjecture. At the church of Effie there is a
ftone 6 or 8 feet long and 2 broad, with feveral hierogly-
phical characters engraven upon it, reprefenting a hunting
match. The purpoſe for which this monument was erected
is unknown. At prefent it lies in a rivulet, and muſt loon
be defaced.
Population. The population of this diſtrict has remained
nearly the fame for a century paft. A. D. 1727, it con-
tained 640 inhabitants. According to the report made to
Dr Webſter, the number of examinable perfons was 500;
and there are now (A.D 1793) 630 fouls. Houſeholders
132, fervants of both fexes 102, weavers 29, 'tailors 4,
fhoemakers 5, wrights 5, mafons 4, blackſmiths 3. Ave-
rage of marriages 10, of births 20, of deaths 12.
Manufactures.-No manufacture has been ever eſtabliſh-
ed in theſe parishes, owing to their local fituation, and di-
ſtance from any confiderable market-town.
Roads. A turnpike-road from Perth to Aberdeen tra-
verfes the parish of Effie; and near the manſe a toll bar
was erected ſeveral years ago; but the road weftward to
the limit of this parifh is itill unfinished, and thence to
Meigle
220
Statistical Account
Meigle it is almoft impaffable during winter. There is no
direct road from either parish to Dundee; but one from
Glammis, and another from Newtyle, to that fea-port,
were lately completed; and the diſtance between one or
other of theſe places and the moſt remote point in the di-
ftrict does not exceed four miles.
Church, &c.-There is a fmall church in each parish,
where divine ſervice is performed alternately. The church
of Effie is fituated on an eminence, 2 miles west of Glam-
mis, and 5 from Meigle; that of Nevay ftands on a rifing
ground, formerly furrounded by a marsh 24 miles S. W.
pf Effie. Both are mean fabrics. The date of the union
of theſe pariſhes was prior to the middle of last century.
The manſe, near the church of Effie, has a commanding
proſpect to the weſt and north-west. It is well built, and
the offices are in good condition.
By an old decreet of locality, the ftipend was afcertained
to be L. 433: 6 : 8 Scots money, and 4 chalders victual
and the glebe confifted of 4 acres of land adjoining to the
manſe, 1 acre at the church of Nevay, and an acre of
graſs. An augmentation having been granted not many
years ago, the living is now worth L. 90 a-year. The
names of the minifters fince the reformation are, Mr David
Brown, Mr Crichton, Mr Silvefter Lamy, Mr Adam Da-
vidfon, Mr Alexander Finlayfon, Mr Maxwell of Strath-
martine, and Mr Ogilvy, the incumbent.
School, &c. The parochial fchool and fchoolmaster's
houſe are fituated near the centre of the diſtrict, about 1
miles S. W. of Effie church, in a barren ſpot at the foot of
Sidla. The falary, with other emoluments annexed to
that office, may amount to L. 12 Sterling. The number
of fcholars for fome years paſt has been inconfiderable...
Character
of Effie and Nevay.
2212
Character.-The inhabitants of this territory are fober
and induſtrious, ftrangers alike to intemperance and diffi-
pation of every kind. The vice of dram-drinking, which
if we may rely on Statiſtical information, fo much prevails.
in many pariſhes of Scotland, is here unknown. There is
not a tavern or alehouſe in either parish. Theſe people,
however, are open, generous and hofpitable. That fervile
fpirit, which diffuſed itſelf among the lower claſs during
the rigour of the feudal fyftem, no longer exifts; and paf-
fions then predominant have fubfided. They are neither
proud nor parafitical. Mild and peaceable, they are nei-
ther ready to reſent an injury, nor to harbour revenge.
Attached to the national church, and the preſent form of
government, they are not inclined to fchifm, nor prone to
fedition, nor liable to change. Not a few of them enjoy
the benefits and comforts of fociety, and all are contented
with their condition.
NUM.
222
Statistical Account
i
NUMBER X.
PARISH OF STRATH,
(COUNTY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF GLENElg, and
PRESBYTERY OF SKY.)
By Mr THOMAS FRASER, of the Inverness Academy.
THE
Name, Situation, Soil, &c.
HE name of the parish is Strathfwordle, but for the
fake of brevity it is called Strath, which is Gaelic,
and fignifies a valley; but fwordle has no affinity to the
Gaelic probably it is of Danish origin. There are two
farms in this ifland called Swordle, one of them in the
middle of this parish. Strath is fituated in the county of
Inverness, prefbytery of Sky, and Synod of Glenelg. The
form of the parish is very irregular. Its length is about
13 Scotch miles, and its greateſt breadth 34 miles. It is
bounded on the E. by the fea, which divides it from the
mainland of Applecrofs and Lochailſh; on the S. and S. E.
by the parish of Sleat; on the W. by the parish of Braca-
dale;
;
of Strath.
223
}
dale; and on the N. and N. W. by the parish of Portree.
The middle of the parish is flat, but the greater part hilly.
The hills on the north fide of the parish are of a conical
form, and very high. Such as have afcended their tops.
are of opinion, that volcanic eruptions have once taken
place here, as the rubbiſh which is to be met with along
their fides and at their bottom is not unlike lava. The hills
that lie in the other diſtricts of the parish are covered with
heath. The foil is various; in fome parts clay, in fome
places a black loam, but by far the greater part moffy.
There is great abundance of limeftone; fome marble, but
of an inferior kind, and too porous to admit of a fine po-
liſh. There is likewife a very good quarry of freeſtone,
chiefly of a light blue colour. In the ſmall iſland of Pabba
there is the appearance of iron ore. Marl in abundance is
found here in different places. The air is moist and foggy:
More rain falls in this pariſh than in any other part of Sky.
The moſt prevalent diftempers are rheumatifms, colds, and
nervous fevers.
Fish, Kelp, Harbours, Iſlands, &c.-The fish caught on
the coaſt are cod, ling, mackrel, ſcate, flounder, lythe, fye,
cuddies, and herring, but very few of theſe are exported.
The herring for a few years back have not frequented the
lochs of this parish in fuch quantities as formerly, nor have
they ftaid fo long.-About 100 tons of kelp are made here
annually, which, four years ago, fold for L. 6 per ton; but
for theſe three laft years, has fallen to L. 4, and even to
L.
The two fmall islands of Pabba and Scalpa
conſtitute a part of this parish; they lie to the eaſt of it,
and are diſtant about two thirds of a mile. The former is
only a wintering place for cattle, of which it may ſupport
from 70 to 80 for half a year. The latter is 3 miles in
length,
3, 10 s.
(
}
224
Statiſtical Account
length, and from 1 to 2 in breadth, and is inhabited. The
harbours are Loch Slapan, Loch Einart, and the Sound of
Scalpa, where veffels of any burden may fafely anchor.
There are ſome freſh water lakes which are ſtored with red
and white trout, and in one of them there are a few fal-
mon, which are caught in a copious rivulet that runs from
one of the lakes to the fea. Oyfters, lobſters, crabs, lim-
pets, ſpout-fiſh, and various other forts of ſhell-fish, are to
be found on the fhores. The birds that moſt commonly
frequent the ſhores are the wild goofe, folan gooſe, cor-
morant, fcale-drake, duck, teal, fea magpie, crane, curlew,
plover, fandy lark, with gulls of different kinds. In the
hills are deer, moorfowl, and black-game; the wild pigeon,
hooded crow, and eagle, neftle in the rocks.
Population. With reſpect to the ancient ſtate of the po-
pulation of the pariſh, little is known. There is every
reaſon to believe that it has confiderably increaſed within
theſe 20 years. The increaſe may be attributed to inocu-
lation for the ſmall-pox having been practifed here for at
leaſt 25 years, and to the letting the lands to fmall tenants.
About 15 years ago, the whole pariſh was in the hands of
a few gentlemen, fome of whom had four or five farms;
but the number of gentlemen-farmers is now reduced to
one or two; and the other farms are let to fmall tenants,
and ten families, confifting of five perfons each at an ave-
rage, are now living, where formerly there were not above
three. Ten years ago the lift of examinable perſons con-
tained upwards of 1200*; none included under 9 years of
age. The preſent population, according to a lift made out
in June 1794, is 1579 fouls.
3
sa
There
* The incumbent ſays he cannot be certain as to the exact number,
but thinks the above nearly right.
of Strath.
225
There are here no extraordinary inftances of longevity,
but there are a few now living between 80 and 90 years
of age.
age. There is no tradefman here that confines himſelf
folely to his trade, but is occafionally a farmer, fiſherman,
weaver, tailor, fhoemaker, or carpenter, c. There is no
fectary of any kind or denomination in the parish. The
heritors are two, viz. Lord Macdonald, and Mr Macalaſter
of Strathaird.
Produce, Rents.-There is no grain raiſed in the pariſh
but oats, which are fown in April, and reaped from the
firft of September to the middle of October. Potatoes
make a principal article of the food of the lower claffes of
people. They are planted in April and May, and ready
for digging in Auguft and September. The parish an-
nually imports a great quantity of meal. The farmers de-
pend on the fale of black cattle for the means of paying
their rents, and ſupplying their families with what other
articles of provifion and clothing they may need. There
are 25 farms in the parish, and only about 15 fmall
ploughs of the Scotch kind are employed, drawn by
four horfes yoked a-breaſt. Many of the fmall tenants
turn up the ground with the Coifchroim, (crooked
fpade.) The rent of the parish, without including the
kelp fhores, is about L. 1300. There are in the pariſh
2213 black cattle, 501 horſes, 2486 fheep, and upwards
of 180 goats. Black cattle fold this year from L. 2 to
L. 3, 8 s. per head. Sheep at 6 s. Butter and cheeſe,
very little of which is fold from the parish, Tells at
prefent, the former 12 s. and the latter 5 s. per tone.
For geefe, ducks, hens, and eggs, there is no market,
nor limited price. The yearly wages for men-fervarts
are from L. 3 to L. 5, befides 3 pair of fhoes. To an over-
VOL. XVI.
Ff
feer
226
Statistical Account
हूँ-
feer from L. 4 to L. 7, befides the fowing of fome feed.
Women-fervants have from 12 s. to 20 s. befides fhoes.
Stipend, School, Poor.-The value of the living may be
about L. 80, including the glebe, and a ſmall allowance for
communion-elements. The Crown is patron. There is
no manfe. There are three different places of worship,
but only one church, which was formerly a Popifh chapel.
At two of the places of worship the minifter preaches at
the fide of a hill when the weather is fair; when other-
wife, he enters into one of the tenant's huts, with as many
of the people as can follow him. The number of poor on
the pariſh-roll is 15. There is no fund to provide for
them, but what arifes from the weekly collections, and the
fines of delinquents, which together generally amount to
between L. 4 and L. 5 yearly. There is a parochial ſchool,
where reading, writing, arithmetic, and Latin are taught.
The falary and ſcholar's fees may amount to L. 22 annu-
ally. The number of ſcholars attending in winter will be
about 60; in fummer fcarce the half. An additional
ſchool is much needed in the pariſh.
Antiquities, Natural Curiofities, Language.-In the pariſh
are the remains of four Popish chapels, viz. one at Aiſk,
one at Kilbride, one at Kilmori, and one in the ſmall iſland
of Pabba. On the weft fide of the parish are the ruins of
ſeven towers of a circular form, erected on rocks; every
one of theſe towers are built in fight of one or more of the
fame. From the fouthmoſt of theſe towers are to be ſeen
others in the parish of Sleat, and from theſe laſt, others on
the oppofite fhore of Arifaig. On the eaft fide of the pa-
rifh are a number of tumuli, and in fuch of them as have
been dug up were found urns full of afhes.
There is a
tradition
!
of Strath.
227
tradition that a battle was fought here by the Danes. In
the diſtrict of the pariſh called Strathaird, are a number of
caves. A man entered lately into one of them, with a
lighted candle, in order to examine it, but could not pro-
ceed, by reafon of its dampnefs, and the drops of water
that fell from the top of it. In one of theſe caves Charles
Steuart, the Pretender, lodged for fome nights in 1746.
In the higheſt part of the iſland of Scalpa there is a petri-
fied rock of mofs, in which are a variety of fhells; and in
many other places throughout the higher parts of the iſland,
great quantities of fhells are to be met with feveral feet
under ground. In the fmall iſland of Pabba, formerly
mentioned, are to be feen, in the rocks and ftones in the
fhore, feveral petrified fish, of different fizes, generally in-
deed below ten inches; but there are eels of nearly double
the length. Some appear whole, and others broken, and
when ftruck forcibly with a ftone or hammer, they often
ſplit in two, and the marks of the bones are viſible in the
rock. The language ſpoken here is the Gaelic, yet few
of the names of places feem to be derived from it.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.—The people in general are
of the middle fize. In a tolerable degree they enjoy the
comforts of life. Their drefs, diet, and lodging, however,
ſtand ſtill in need of amendment. It is the general opi-
nion, that their condition would be ameliorated if they had
longer leafes, and greater encouragement for improvements.
They much regret that their proprietors ftay too short time
among them, to obtain a full and true account of the real
ſtate of the people. The inhabitants, for want of a fuffi-
cient capital, are unable to profequte the fiſhing to any ex-
tent. But if the proprietors would take the fiſh and black
cattle in payment of the rents, or even procure good mar-
I
kets
228
Statistical Account
kets for both, it would undoubtedly fpur on the tenants to
induſtry. Would not the bounties and premiums (exclu-
five of the fish) be of effential benefit to the Highlands, if
the inhabitants could obtain them? Would not the money
thus acquired be in part, at leaſt, laid out in improving the
country? Peat is the only fuel ufed here; a great part of
the fummer is wafted in digging and leading them home.
The roads through the parish are very indifferent. There
is but one inn in the parish, yet whifky, brought from
Ferrintofh, is fold by the bottle in many places. If this
practice is tolerated, there is danger that the people be-
come poor, quarrelfome, and immoral. There are two
tryfts for cattle held in the parish annually, on the
laft week of the months of May and July. There is one
ferry (on the poſt-road from Inverneſs to this country) at
Keil, the S. E. extremity of the pariſh. Salt is often here
a ſcarce commodity. It has happened, oftener than once,
that an ounce of falt was not to be had here, at the very
time when the greateft fhoals of herring entered the lochs;
and a barrel of herring has fold freſh for 2 s. which, if
falted, would have fold for 12 s. Some wafte lands have
lately been improved. Mr Macdonald, tackfman of Scal-
pa, has given encouragement to a few families to fettle on
a part of his extenfive farms, and this colony, from the af
ſiſtance given them by that gentleman, and their own in-
duſtry, are now in a thriving condition. The mode of
dreffing the corn to be ground by what is called Gradan,
is here ftill in ufe. By this operation they fave the trouble
of threſhing and kiln-drying the grain. Fire is fet to the
ftraw, and the flame and heat parches the grain; it is then
made into meal on the quern. This meal looks very black,
but taftes well enough, and is eſteemed very wholefome.
The whole of the work is performed by the women. The
only
of Strath.
229
:
only apology given by themſelves, for this mode of pre-
paring the grain, is, that the quantity of grain which the
generality have is very fmall, and many of them are at a
great diſtance from a mill. The cattle do not want the
ſtraw, becauſe they lie out all winter in good paſture, and
as fnow does not lie long on the ground, they can always
have enough of food.
NUM.
230
Statistical Account
NUMBER XI.
PARISH OF BOWDEN,
(COUNTY OF ROXBURGH, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TE-
VIOTDALE, AND PRESBYTERY OF SELKIRK),
Drawn up by a Friend to Statistical Inquiries, from Ma-
terials chiefly furnished by Mr ANDREW BLAIKIE,
Tenant in Holydean, who has refided 35 Years in that
Parish.
I
Name, Boundaries, and Extent.
N the charter granted by King David I. to the Abbey
of Selkirk, mention is made of Bothenden, which ſeems
to favour the conjecture of this parish being named after a
St Bothen or Bodwin, and the fcite can ſtill be pointed out
of his tower near the village. Yet the name may be de-
rived from a den or dean in the bow or curve of a ſmall ri-
vulet, which is defcriptive of the place where the church is
ſaid to have once ftood. It is bounded on the N. by Mel-
rofe parish; on the E. moftly by St Bofwells, though
partly alfo by Langnewton annexed to Ancrum; on the S.
by Lilliefleaf; on the W. by Selkirk; and on the N. W.
by
of Bowden.
231
by Galashiels. Its greateſt length from E. to W. is 6
miles. Its greateſt breadth from S. to N. is about 4
miles. At an average it may be about 4 by 3 miles.
The whole pariſh having been meaſured, either for the di-
vifion of run-rig lands, or for being let by the acre, is
known to contain nearly 6700 acres *.
Surface, Soil, and Climate.-The ſurface is much varied.
One of the Eildon hills, and one half of another, are int
this parish. From one broad and elevated baſe, three co-
nical tops arife, which, from their fituation in a flat coun-
try, more than from their height, are ſeen at a great di-
ſtance. Some parts of them alfo being covered with a
kind of red ſtone, without a pile of grafs, have a fingular
and ftriking appearance. Several little eminences and
ridges run from W. to E. with ſmall vallies of fine mea-
dow between them, all abounding with fprings of water,
which, when collected, run into Tweed, about two miles to
the eastward of this parish, except one or two ftreamlets
which fall into Ale water, its fouthern boundary. In ge-
neral, the whole parifh is naturally graffy, except about
200 acres, including the higher parts of thefe ridges, which
are inclined to broom or furze, and about the fame quan-
About 3-4ths of the
tity bearing a kind of ſtunted heath.
pariſh have been, at one time or another, under the plough.
The other 1-4th confifts of bog, mofs, and plantations of
fir and foreft trees. Of theſe laſt there are too few, eſpe-
cially as they are profitable to the proprietor, as well as to
the farmer, for ſhelter, and to the people for fuel. There
is fome old wood, but of no great extent. Two-thirds of
the pariſh are inclofed moftly with ditch and hedges of
thorns,
*Here, and throughout the following account, the English acre is
always meant, as is alſo the Teviotdale meaſure, which is precifely 1-5th
more than the Linlithgow ſtandard.
1
A
232
Statiſtical Account
thorns, which thrive well when properly taken care of,
The foil of far the greateſt part is a white binding clay on
a tilly bottom, which retains moiſture, becomes hard in
drought, and can only be laboured and fown to advantage.
when the feafon is neither too wet nor too dry. About
1-6th of it is well adapted to wheat; another 1-6th is
fharp, lets water eafily fink, is very manageable, and
produces good turnips, corn, and grafs. Moft of the pariſh
is, on the whole, as well fuited to pafturage as to tillage,
and will pay as well, `The expoſure in general is high and
eaſterly, which, together with the clayey foil, renders the
crops often late, precarious, and apt to fuffer much from
rainy harveſts and early frofts. In the 1782, a great deal
of corn was uncut at Martinmas, and ſeveral farmers, in-
ftead of paying their rents from their crops, were obliged
to purchaſe grain. Many oats yielded that year no more
than 3 ftone of meal per boll.
acre.
Farms, Rents, Heritors.-The farms are very unequal,
paying L. 400, L. 200, L. 100, L. 70, L. 60, and even fo
low as L. 10, and L.8 Sterling of yearly rent in money,
befides a few carriages, one half of the poors-rates, and one
half of the ſchoolmaſter's falary. The foil differing greatly
in value, lands, in farms, are let at from 15 s. to 5 s. per
Some ſmall fields near the villages of Middleham
and Bowden are rented for conveniency for L. 1, 10 s. per
acre, while ſome tracts of outfield high lands do not fetch
above 2 s. 6 s. The whole real rent of the pariſh may at
preſent amount to L. 2300 Sterling. The valued rent
L. 8030, 11 s. Scots *; of which the largeſt half belongs to
the Duke of Roxburgh, his valuation being L. 4121, 11S.
Scots.
*A new analyfis of the valuation of the whole county reduces the,
valuation of this parish to L. 7930: 10: 10,
of Bowden.
233
:
Scots. There are only three other confiderable proprietors,
all of whom occafionally refide, and about 50 fmall feuers
in Bowden and Middleham, who pay of teind, feu, &c. to
his Grace about 1-8th of the yearly value of their ſub-
jects *.
Cultivation, Manures, and Produce.-There were for-
merly 26 ploughs in the parish, each drawn by 2 oxen,
and 3, or at leaſt 2 horfes; and 10 or 12 drawn by 2 horſes
only. No oxen are now employed. Some attempts to
work them by themſelves are not likely to fucceed; fer-
vants being prejudiced againſt them, and doing all in their
power to prevent this practice from taking place. There
are at preſent 44 ploughs, each drawn by 2 horſes, and both
driven and held by one man. The change has not contri-
buted much to raife better crops, or to benefit the farmer.
The English plough, with the broad or plate fock, is uni-
verfally uſed; though fome are returning occafionally to
the old Scots plough, which is certainly preferable in ftony
or ftrong clay lands. Several moffes in the pariſh and
neighbourhood, abounding with ſhell marl, have lately been
drained. Thofe in the parish belong to the Duke of Rox-
burgh, and the marl is ufed only by his tenants; but in
the neighbourhood, it is ſold at 6 d. per cart drawn by one,
and at 9 d. per cart drawn by two horfes, and can be car-
ried 6 or 7 miles to good advantage. Thirty of the one,
or forty-five of the other, are laid on an acre of the ſharp
dry land. Strong clay lands require more. Lime is alſo
brought from Mid Lothian, about 28 miles, at the rate of
12 s. per cart, containing nearly 3 bolls of fhells, and uſed
in the proportion of 6 carts to 25 of marl. Both contribute
VOL. XVI.
G g
to
*Their number is daily decreafing, the richer purchafing the propertie
of the poorer.
234
Statiſtical Account
to raiſe excellent crops of corn and grafs. Lime produces
better grain, but marl anſwers beſt for graſs, eſpecially for
paſture. After trying many varieties of every grain, the
moſt approved are now white oats, barley bear, (fo
called to diftinguish it from rough bear, or big); early
peafe, here called hot feed; and Kentish, or Cleaveland
wheat. Very little rye is fown, and no flax but for family
ufe. On about 1650 acres, about 1100 bolls of diffe-
rent grains are annually fown; nearly as follows, viz. 120
of wheat, 100 of peaſe, 750 of oats, and 130 of barley;
which laſt is followed by a hay crop. There are befides
140 acres, yearly, in turnip; 50 in potatoes; and 160 in fal-
low. Turnips are generally fucceeded by barley; potatoes
fometimes by barley, but more commonly by oats; fallow
partly by wheat and partly by oats; and lands, ploughed out
of lee or pafture, are always fown with qats. After maintain-
ing the inhabitants, the annual exports may be about 350
bolls of oat-meal, at L. 1, 5 s. per boll; 300 ditto of barley,
at 18 s.; and 450 ditto of wheat, at L. 1, 2 s. amounting in
all to L. 1202, 10 s. per annum.
Horfes, Black Cattle, Sheep, and Wool.-There are 160
horfes of different ages in the parish, one-fourth of which are.
too young for labour.
for labour. The black cattle of all ages may be
540. About 90 are reared yearly, and about 50 are ſtall-
fed for the butcher, which weigh at an average from 45 to
50
ſtone of 15 lb. Dutch weight *. The cows of the fame
breed, when fattened, weigh about 36 ftone. About 80
fwine are annually fed, noftly by tradefmen. They
are bought in England in Odober or November, when
3 or 4 months old, at 10s. or 12 s. each; and after feeding
for
*The Dutch weight is always meant, when meal, grain, or butcher
meat are ſpoken of. The Sctoch weight, of 24 Engliſh lb. to the ſtone,
is uſed for felling wool, cheese, butter, and hay.
1
L
of Bowden.
235
,
:
for 4 months on the refufe of potatoes, and a little bruifed
oats or barley, they weigh 10 or 12 ftone. Being killed fo
young, they are very fine food, and of great fervice to a
family. The number of fheep is about 2300, moftly of
the white-faced long-bodied kind, and weighing from
12 lb. to 14 lb. per quarter. Till of late, little attention
was paid to the improvement of wool; but now the en-
couragement given by premiums, and the force of example,
have, perhaps, carried the ftock of fheep here to as great
perfection in that reſpect as the climate and foil will admit.
The wool has fold for 18 s. per ſtone. The common diſ-
eaſes of the sheep are the rot, a kind of confumption occa
fioned by overſtocking the paftures, and by rainy feafons,
eſpecially a rainy autumn; and the sturdy, or water in the
head, which attacks them when about a year old, chiefly in
the months of April, May, and June; and is of fo corrofive
a nature as to perforate the ſkull into holes large enough to
admit a pea or fmall bean. Cne fheep in 40 falls by this
diſeaſe. Such as are affected by it become at firſt giddy, af-
terwards ftupid, and ſeldom or never recover. No ewes are
milked. The cheeſe and butter, made from cows milk,
are moftly confumed in the parish, efpecially the latter;
which is much ufed in falving the fheep, at the rate of
from 4 lb. to 6 lb. to the Scotch pint of tar.
Population.The population of this parish in 1755 a-
mounted to 672 fouls. At prefent (January 1794) the
parish contains 217 families, and 860 perfons; of whom
there are,
Under 10 years of age,
Between 10 and 20,
223
189
Between 20 and 50,
321
Above 5º,
127
Total,
860
Of
236
Statistical Account
Of theſe, 10 are above 80 years; and of theſe 10, 3 are
85, and 2 are upwards of 90.
The births, marriages, and burials, recorded in the parish-
regiſter, for the laft 8 years, are as follow:
Years 1785, Births 14 Marriages 6 Deaths 15
1786,
15
9
18
1787
19
ΙΟ
15
1788,
13
5
10
1789,
14
6
Ισ
1790,
16
5
7
1791,
II
6.
7
1792,
9
4
13
1
Total, 115
Average yearly,
14/1/1
51
6 3/1/1
95
I
111
Moſt of the inhabitants are either feuers, farmers, or cot-
tagers employed by them, except the after mentioned, viz.
14 Wrights,
3 Coopers,
1 Wheelwright,.
13 Tailors,
2 Shoemakers,
6 Grocers,
3 Blacksmiths,
I Founder,
II Maſons,
12 Weavers,
2. Flaxdreffers, and only
4 Alehoufe-keepers.
inhabitants are Burghers and
About one third of the
Antiburghers. The latter have a meeting-houſe in the
pariſh; the congregation of which, from this and other pa-
riſhes, pays their miniſter L. 60 per annum.
There are 4
corn-mills, each of which draws fome multures; but that
fervitude is beginning to be abolished. A threſhing machine
is newly erected, which does a great deal of work; but
when the prime coſt, and intereſt thereon, tear and wear of
every kind, the number of hands, and the extraordinary
waſte of horſes, are all taken into the account, it
be of great profit to the proprietor.
may not
Fued
of Bowden.
237
Fuel and Labour.-There are no manufactures, owing to
the dearneſs of fuel. Coals muſt be chiefly depended on;
and they are brought 28 and 30 miles from Lothian, at
the rate of 1 s. per cwt. Few or no peats are to be had;
but the people are much benefited by weedings of
plantations, which are frequently fold in the neighbour-
hood. Small feuers and tenants, who have not ground
enough to employ themſelves and horfes, drive coal, lime.
and marl for hire; the lime at 9 s. and the marl at I s. 4 d.
per two horfe cart, or at 4 s. per day for a man, cart, and
2 horſes. The wages of a man-fervant, who eats in the
houfe, are fron L. 7 to L. 8 Sterling per annum. Maid-
fervants get L. 2, 10 s. and L. 2, 15 s. for the fummer, and
L. 1, 5's. for the winter half-year. But a married farm-
fervant, who provides his own victuals, receives about the
value of L. 14 or L. 15 Sterling in oats, barley, peaſe, flax,
potatoe, and the maintenance of a cow through the year.
Upon theſe wages he may bring up his family in a decent.
manner, and give his children a tolerable education, if he
and his wife be induftrious and frugal. In harveft, which
commonly lafts about four weeks, a man gets L. 1, 6 s. and
a woman L. 1, and their maintenance. At all other times,
a man gets I s. 2 d. per day, and a woman 7 d. or 8 d. in
fummer*, and a man I s. in winter, both furniſhing their
own victuals. Men working by the piece do at leaſt 1-4th,
if not 1-3d more than on day's wages; which makes their
employers let as much work by the piece as they can.
A
maſon earns 1 s. 8 d. and a carpenter 1 s. 6 d. per day with-
out victuals. A carpenter gets 1 s. and a tailor 8 d. with
their victuals. Servants wages are doubled within thefe
40 years.
?
Difeafes
* Summer, with men on day's wages, begins on 13th February, and
lafts 8 months.
ུ་
238
Statistical Account
;
!
Difeafes.-No difeafes are peculiar to this parish. Fe-
vers, at an interval of perhaps 8 or 10 years, have proved
mortal; and the natural fmall pox carry off many
children. Inoculation, that falutary mean of preferving
them, is far from becoming general; the Seceders being
much prejudiced againſt it, though in many families it has
been attended with its ufual fuccefs. Confumptions are
not unfrequent; but, on the whole, the people enjoy good
health.
Ecclefiaftical State, Schools.-The church is old, long,
narrow, and needs reparation. A vault adjoining to it is
the burying-place of the ducal family of Roxburgh. The
coffins are above ground; and ſome of them, by the dates ·
upon them, have ſtood upwards of 200 years, and are ſtill
entire. An excellent manfe and office-houfes are newly
finished. The ftipend confifts of 5 chalders of victual, Lin
meaſure, 2-3ds of which are oat-meal, and 1-3d is barley,
400 merks in money, and 40 merks for communion-ele-
ments. The glebe is 16 English acres, about 3 of which
are meadow. The Duke of Roxburgh is patron. The
parochial ſchoolmaster at Bowden has a falary of L. 8, 6s.
8 d. Sterling, and about 70 fcholars. Of thefe, 30 read
English at I s. per quarter, 25 both read and write at I s.
6 d. and about 15 commonly are taught arithmetic, book-
keeping, and mathematics, on fuch terms as can be agreed
upon. The ſchoolmaſter has about L. 3 for collecting poorsa
rates, and a dwelling-houſe and garden worth L. 2, making
in all about L. 30 yearly. There is alſo a ſchool and a ſchool-
houſe at Middleham. The mafter has a falary of L. 3, and
gets his victuals, during the teaching ſeaſon, from the different
families, according to the number of children they have at
the ſchool, which, at an average, is about 30, fo that he
cannot draw annually above L. 7 or L. 8 Sterling.
Poor.
។
of Bowden.
239
1
Poor.-The number of poor on the roll for the laſt ſeven
years has been 20. They are all maintained in their own
houſes, or boarded in other families. The annual fum ex-
pended upon them, may amount to L. 65 Sterling, which
is levied at two different times in the year from the pro-
prietors and tenants equally. This affeffment is laid on
by the proprietors; but the tenants have a vote in the di-
ftribution of it. The collections at church on Sundays are
fmall, and do little more than pay the falaries of the pre-
centor and beadle. There is only one beggar in the pa-
rish; but ftrolling poor from other places come among us
at all feaſons.
Roads.-The roads are pretty well taken care of by the
Juſtices of the diſtrict. Formerly 1 s. 6 d. for each man,
and 2 s. for each horfe, were levied annually for ftatute-
labour. By a late act of Parliament, it is now laid on ac-
cording to the valued rents, and paid by the poffeffors.
The management is veſted in Juftices of Peace and Com-
miffioners of Supply, and other truftees. The utmoſt they
can exact is 10s. Sterling on the L. Ico Scots of valued
rent, but they can make it as low as they pleaſe when the
ftate of the roads allow.
Birds and Beafts. There are plenty of partridges, fome
plovers, woodcocks, fnipes, curlews, and other birds, both
tationary and migratory, which are common in this part
of Scotland, Little injury is done by birds of prey; but
much was formerly fuftained from foxes, to which the furze
and bruſh-wood on the lower ſkirts of Eildon, both in this and
Melrofe pariſh, afford cover. Of late, however, their num
ber has been diminished by the Noblemen and Gentlemen
of
240
Statiſtical Account
7
of the Caledonian Hunt, and others who keep hounds.
Hares abound.
Character of the People.-The people in general are
fober and induſtrious. Few of them engage in adventures
or fpeculations, except in the line of farming, and even there
with a prudent caution. Their divifions, in religious opi-
nions, do not now occafion fo great a want of cordial inter-
courfe as formerly, and the prejudices of fects are daily
dying away.
Antiquities.-The remains of a military road, with cir-
cular ſtations or camps, at the diſtance of two or three
miles, ſuppoſed to be Roman, can be traced, running nearly
N. through the centre and broadeft part of the pariſh, about
a mile to the weftward of the church, from Beaulieu in the
parish of Lilliefleaf to Caldſhiels in the parish of Gala-
fhiels. In fome places, all veftiges of it are deftroyed by
the plough; but in other places traces of it are ftill viſible,
in the form of a large ditch, about 20 feet wide; and in
fome ſpots, of two ditches of that width, at the diſtance of
50 feet. The camps or ftations are all on eminences in
view of each other; and different weapons, or inftruments
of war, have been dug up by people ploughing or ditching
around them, as well as in the adjacent moffes.
There was, not long ago, a ftrong fortification, of its kind,
at Holydean or Haliedean, once a refidence of the family
of Roxburgh. The court-yard, containing about of an
acre, was furrounded by ſtrong ftone and lime walls, 4 feet
thick, and 16 feet high, with flanting holes, between five
freeftones, about 30 feet from each other; from which an
arrow or a muſket could have been pointed in different di-
rections. Upon an arched gateway in the front there was
a ftrong iron gate. Within the court ftood two ftrong
towers,
M
of Bowden.
241
towers, the one of 3, the other of 5 ftories, confifting of 8
or 10 lodgeable rooms, befides porters lodges, fervants
hall, vaulted cellars, bakehoufes, &c. The roof and floor-
ing, being all of the ſtrongeſt oak, if kept in the ſtate in
which they then were, might have ſtood for a century.
But during the minority of the prefent Duke, while he
was abroad, without his knowledge, his then commiffioner
ordered this building to be moſtly pulled down, merely for
the fake of getting the freeftones in them to build a large
farm-houſe and appurtenances, at the distance of 3 miles,
though the difficulty of feparating theſe ftones from the
lime made them a dear purchaſe. Some of the vaults ftill
remain, and are uſed by the tenant; and about 160 feet of
the court wall are perfectly entire, which makes the de-
molition of the reft to be much regretted, as the whole
building was ſtately and ornamental to the place, as well as
venerable for its antiquity. One ſtone, preferved from the
ruins, and now a lintel to the door of the farm-houſe at
Holydean, has in the middle an unicorn's head and three
ftars, with this infcription on either fide:
Feer God. Flee
from fin mak
to the lyfe
Everlafting
to the end
Dem líbel Ker 1530
About 140 yards from the principal houfe on the top of
a precipice hanging over a burn, there had been a chapel or
place of worſhip, and a burying ground, as appears from a
number of grave ftones, handles of coffins, and pieces of hu-
man bones, which have been dug up from time to time.
Hence probably has arifen the name Holydean or Halis-
dean.
The greateſt curiofity, perhaps, of its kind in Britain, is
a ſtone dike without lime, which inclofes about 500 acres
of this farm, and has ftood more than 300 years, yet is ftill
a tolerable fence. It has at firſt been 6 or 7 feet high,
VOL. XVI.
Hh
with
į
!,
242
Statistical Account
with capftones. In an old tack, this inclofure is called,
"The great deer park of Haliedean," and was once full of
wood; but it has long been fubdivided, and all the trees.
cut down, except a few old birches.
Here, as well as in other parts of Scotland, many birch,
fir, and oak trees have been found in the moffes; fome of
them 3 feet in diameter, and feveral of the firs and oaks.
quite found. They generally lie from 3 to 8 feet below
the furface. Human bones alfo, and many horns of diffe-
rent animals, have been dug up, quite beyond the ſize of
the largeſt to be any where feen at this time. How the
former were laid there, and how the latter acquired their
enormous fize, leaves room for conjecture. Where they
are found, the ſubſtance of the moſs is condenſed fog, to ap-
pearance as freſh and diſtinct as that upon old lea ground.
This too may afford matter of curious fpeculation.
The family of Carre of Cavers deferves alfo to be men-
tioned, as one of the most ancient in the S. of Scotland.
Their chief refidence, for many generations, has been in
the parish. George Carre, Efq; of Nifbet, a Lord of Sef-
fion, was defcended from a branch of this family. They
are ſuppoſed to have ſprung from Kerr of Ferniherſt. One
of their anceſtors claimed the title of Lord Jedburgh; but
from the different manner in which they ſpell their name,
it ſeems probable, either that they are a diſtinct family, or
a very old cadet.
NUM-
of Anftruther Eafter.
243
NUMBER XII.
PARISH OF ANSTRUTHER EASTER,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF FIFE, PRESBYTERY OF
ST ANDREW'S).
1
By a Friend to Statiſtical Inquiries.
Situation, c.
THIS parish is fituated on the fea-coaſt, between Kil-
rennie and Anftruther Weſter, (from which it is di
vided by a ſmall river), in the Preſbytery of St Andrew's.
The obfervations that occur in the Statiſtical Account
of theſe two pariſhes, as to the foil, climate, fiſhing, price
of proviſions, equally apply to Anftruther Eaſter, and need
not be repeated here.
Church, Stipend, &c.—Till the year 1636, the town of
Anſtruther, and the barony, was in the pariſh of Kilrennie ;
but though the church was at Kilrennie, the minifter re-
fided at Anftruther, and was ftyled the minifter of that
town.
In the above mentioned year, the town of Eaſter
Anftruther
244
Statistical Account
2
Anftruther was erected into a feparate charge, and a church
built. The ftipend arifes from the tithes of the fiſh, a grant
from his Majeſty of part of the bishops rents, and ſome
money mortified for that purpofe, and may be reckoned
between L. 70 and L. 80. Sir John Anftruther is the
patron.
Population.--In 1744, the number was 1000; in 1764,
it was 900; at prefent, it is fuppofed rather above 1000.
The average of births 36; deaths 24.
Port, Shipping, &c.—In 1710, Anftruther, which for-
merly was a creek of the cuſtomhouſe of Kirkcaldy, was
made a port, and a cuſtomhouſe eſtabliſhed.
In 1753, a new key was built; and to defray the ex-
pence an act of Parliament was procured, laying a tax of
two pennies Scots upon every pint of ale brewed or fold in
the burgh. For fome years of late the produce has not
been more than a third of what it was at the beginning.
In 1768, the tonnage belonging to Anftruther Eaſter was
8 ton; it is now 1400.
Ship-building has been carried on for fome years to a
confiderable extent.-There is a thread-manufacture.
Poor. The poor are fupported by the weekly collec-
tions; befides which the shipmafters have a large fund, from
which they are able to make a decent proviſion for the
widows and orphans of their Society. The trades have a
fund for their poor.
Longevity.-In 1761, Robert Arnot, blackſmith, died,
aged 99 years and fome months; Mr James Nairne, late
minifter, 92; his fon, the prefent incumbent, is 84.
NUM.
of Hoy and Gramfay.
245
NUMBER XIII.
UNITED PARISHES
OF
HOY AND GREMSAY,
(COUNTY OF ORKNEY, SYNOD OF KIRKWALL, AND
PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTONS).
By the Rev. Mr ROBERT SANDS.
THE PARISH OF HOY
OES not furniſh much room for Statiſtical inveſtiga-
DOES
tion, and the few obfervations which occur reſpecting
it may be comprehended within narrow bounds. The
origin of its name cannot now be aſcertained.
Situation and Extent. The parish is fituated in the
county of Orkney, Synod of Kirkwall, and Prefbytery of
Cairſtons. It is of a triangular form, furrounded by the
pariſhes of Walls to the fouth fide; the pariſhes of Orphir,
Stennis, and Stromnefs, upon the east and north fide; and
the
246
Statiſtical Account
the Atlantic Ocean to the weftward. The parish from
N. W. to S. E. is about 9 or 10 miles long, and in gene-
ral is about 6 miles broad. It may be called a very hilly
or mountainous diftrict. One of thefe hills in particu-
lar being ſo ſteep in many places of it, is almoft inacceffible
on account of rocks of an uncommon fize. Some ſtrangers
with their mathematical inftruments have computed the
height of it, from the water's edge to the top, an English
mile. There is neither paſture nor heath grows upon it,
and it only ſerves as a fine mark for mariners or feafaring
people to bring them into a fafe harbour.
Soil and Climate.-The land or arable ground in this
place is generally wet and ſpongy; the foil light, and bet-
ter calculated for grafs than for grain. The air is healthy,
and the people generally long-lived; one perſon, in parti-
cular, who had refided in the parish from his youth, died
fome years ago at the advanced age of 100.
Sheep. The principal circumftance for which this pariſh
is remarkable is their fheep, if they were properly taken care
of as in other countries to the fouthward; but no arguments
will prevail with the country people of the pariſh to take
better care of them, except their landlords would interpofe
their authority, which they will not. The fheep all run
wild in theſe mountains, and are never got until they run
them down with their dogs. and by that means they are
much abuſed. Some of thefe fheep will run with three or
four years wool upon them, and when hounded by their
dogs, they run generally to the rocks, where there is no
poffibility of accefs to them. Many of their young lambs
are devoured, and picked up by eagles and other birds of
prey, which are very numerous in this place; and in the
winter-feafon, when the fheep come down to the fea-fide
to
of Hoy and Gramfay.
547
away
to feed upon fea-weeds or ware, they are often carried a
by the high tides that commonly take place in ftormy
weather. As to the number of their ſheep, it would be no eafy
matter to aſcertain, as the people are at great care and
pains to conceal it; but by a general calculation they may
be computed at 1000 or 1200.
Productions.-The quantity of grain produced here is
very inconfiderable, and their farms are fo very finall,
that when they have paid their rents to their landlords,
which are collected commonly in kind, they have but a
very ſcanty fubfiftence to ſupport themſelves and families,
and are often reduced to buying of meal for their families.
The only grain they fow is black oats and bear. The
planting of potatoes, which of late has taken place among
them, may in time be a great advantage.
Rent of the Pariſh. The whole rent of this pariſh does
not exceed L. 250 Sterling; and as the whole parish was
feued off the bishoprick in former times, and that at the
higheſt rate then paid, the whole rent paid to the proprie-
tors muſt be very fmall. There are four heritors in the
pariſh, and only one of them refiding in it.
State of the Church, &c.-The whole of the church
about nine years ago fell down of itſelf before the heritors
would offer to make any reparation on it, and at laſt they
rebuilt it, and that in a very flight manner, fo that it is
not above half finiſhed. The preſent incumbent was ſet-
tled as minifter in April 1742; he was married, and had
a very large family of children, once to the number of 22,
but are now reduced to 4 fons and 2 daughters. The fti-
pend amounts to 92 meils of malt, and 6 barrels of greaſe
butter. The prices of theſe articles are very precarious,
and
248
Statistical Account
-
and at an average do not exceed betwixt L. 60 and L. 70
Sterling, befides a fmall glebe not exceeding L. 3 rent
yearly. The manſe is in a very ruinous condition, though
built fince the incumbency of the prefent miniſter, and
that of the very worst materials that could poffibly be got,
fo that now it is dangerous to walk upon the floors, as the
whole of them are worm-eaten:
Population.-The population in 1755 was 520; of late
it has confiderably diminiſhed. The inhabitants may now
amount to 250.
The number of burials do not exceed 3
or 4 each year; the births are from 6 to 8. There is no
village in the pariſh.
Antiquities.-There are few antiquities in this pariſh
worth mentioning; only there is a large ſtone, called the
Dwarf Stone, which meaſures 32 feet in length, 16 broad,
feet 5 inches in height, hollowed in the infide, and di-
vided into three different apartments; in one end there is
a bed, 5 feet 8 inches long, and 2 feet broad; and in the
other end a ſmall room, and in the middle part an area,
where there has been a fire-place, and a hole at the top to
let out the ſmoke. There are ſeveral beautiful glens among
the hills, furrounded with very high rocks, and at the
foot of theſe rocks a fine plain of grafs, grown level as a
bowling-green, where there are the fineſt echoes reverbe-
rating from one rock to another every fyllable you exprefs
for fome minutes; there is alſo in this pariſh a proſpect of
one of the richest lead mines that has been known. Mr
Walter Stewart, a late proprietor of faid place, employed
a miner, a very ſkilful man in his buſineſs, who ftruck up
about a ton weight of the ore, which Mr Stewart carried
to Leith, and gave to Dr Black, Profeffor of Chemiſtry,
who made an affay of it; and his report was, that be-
fides
of Hoy and Gramfay.
249
fides the lead, he could extract 46 ounces of filver out of
each ton of ore.
Fuel. The principal diſadvantage, notwithſtanding the
great and high mountains we have in this parish, is the
ſcarcity of fuel, many of the inhabitants being obliged to
go a great way out of the pariſh arnong theſe hills, to cut,
win, and carry their peats down to the fea fhores, where
next they are obliged to carry them in their boats by
water to a very great diſtance. The prefent incumbent
has been obliged to carry his peats by water during all the
years of his incumbency for 5 or 6 miles, which is attended
with a great expence upon ſo ſmall a ftipend.
Prices of Provisions.-The prices of vivers in this pariſh,
and in the neighbourhood, has turned out fo high, even to
triple value of moſt articles more than it was at the pre-
fent incumbent's being fettled here, owing chiefly to its
being in the neighbourhood of Stromnefs, where there is a
fine harbour, and much frequented by fhipping, fo that
when come off a long voyage, and out of proviſion, the
fmall petty merchants in Stromnefs come over here, and
buy up theep, hogs, and cattle at any price, as they are
fure to make confiderable profits by the hands of theſe
ftrangers.
THE PARISH OF GRÆMSAY
Is but a very ſmall iſland, a mile and an half in length,
and a mile in breadth, confiſting of 35 or 36 families, in
very ſmall farms, where the cure was uſed to be ferved by
the miniſter of Hoy every third Sabbath; but the ſmall
kirk or meeting-place there threatened to fall down of it-
VOL. XVI.
I i
felf,
250
Sttaiftical Account
felf, the minifter applied to the Prefbytery for a vifitation,
and by the oaths of fufficient workmen of each craft, gott
it declared ruinous, and it ftill continues fo, which obliged
the miniſter to leave the place, after he had ferved 36 years
and upwards. It is alfo obfervable, and very fingular,
that it pays neither ftipend, nor has any glebe.
Population. The population of the parish is much the
fame as it was 50 years ago. Its inhabitants may now a-
mount to about 160; the number of burials do not exceed
3 or 4 each year; the births about 8 or 10 yearly. There
is no village in the iſland.
Fuel. The principal diſadvantage under which this pa-
rish labours, is the fcarcity of fuel. The common people:
burn turf or peat, which they are obliged to carry from
Hoy and other places.
Schools There are no fchools in either of the parishes
of Hoy or Grævday, owing to ne proprietors, who cannot
toe
be prevailed upon to fertle a parochial fchool, and for that
reaſon, the Society for propagating Chriſtian Knowledge-
have for fome years paft withdrawn their charity ſchools;
and notwithtanding the minifter of the place applied to
the commiilioners of the county to interpofe their autho-
rity, which he did by petition, and under form of inftru-
ment above 30 years ago, yet to this day he never got any
deliverance upon it and now the minifter, being reduced
by old age and infirmities, is not in condition to go
about fuch matters.
Rent. The land-rent of the iſland is computed at L. 100
Sterlingga-year, befides cafualties equal to one half more.
NUM.
of Weftray.
251
NUMBER XIV:
PARISH OF WESTRAY,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF ORKNEY, PRESBYTERY OF
NORTH ISLES.)
:
By the Rev. Mr JAMES IZAT, Minifter.
T
Situation, Extent, &c.
HE parish of Weftray comprehends in it the iſlands
of Weftray and Papa Weftray; theſe iſlands are fi-
tuated towards the N. and lie in the extremity of the
country on that fide: Weftray, the largeſt, is diftant from
Kirkwall, the borough town, about the ſpace of 20 miles.
The leffer iſland, Papa Weftray, lying to the N. of Weſt-
ray, will be diſtant from Kirkwall 24 miles. The island
of Weſtray is of an irregular form, being indented with
bays and jutting out points of land. This ifland lies in a
direction from E. to W. being in length between 9 and 10
miles English; towards the weft end, it ftretches out into
a confiderable breadth, being about 6 English miles over
in that part; there is likewife a ridge of hills on the
western extremity of this ifland, of a confiderable height,
called
252
Statiſtical Accouni
1
;
called Fitty and Gallo, ftretching from S. to N. in a line
of between 3 and 4 miles. This ifland towards the E. and
a little removed from Fitty and Galio hills, is about 2
Engliſh miles over; but about the middle ſpace of the
iſland, the breadth is fcarcely an Engliſh mile over. From
guefs of the eye, there does not appear to be above 1-8th
part of the ſurface of this iſland under cultivation.
The iſland of Papa Westray, lies on the north fide of
Weftray, and is feparated from it by a found, or ferry,
between 2 and 3 miles over. The length of this iſland is
between 3 and 4 English miles, of an oval form, and lies
in a direction from N. to S. being about an Engliſh mile
in breadth in moſt places. This is a very fertile iſland,
containing fome of the beſt pafture and arable lands in the
whole country; and, to appearance, there is a greater pro-
portion of this ifland under cultivation than that of the
island of Weftray.
Agriculture, 3c.-Agriculture in this parish, as well as
in the other parts of the county of Orkney, is carried on
in the fame way that it has been done for many years paſt.
The fields are all open, without incloſures, neither are there
any green crops raiſed here, fuch as hay, turnip, c.; the
people here now begin to plant potatoes, and this they do
to advantage, both with reſpect to produce, and the im-
provement of the ground. There is one gentleman in the
iſland of Weſtray, who fows a confiderable quantity of
peafe yearly, both of the white and gray kind; the only
produce is ſtraw for his horſes, the grain feldom or ever
comes to any perfection. The farmer here generally ufes
a plough with one ſtilt, much in the form of the old Ro-
man plough. The only rotation of crops is fmall grey oats
and bear, commonly called big; the time of fowing the
oats
1
of Westray.
253
*
oats is in the month of March, and fometimes they fow
this grain in the end of February, if the feafon is favour-
able. The only manure here is fea weed or ware, with
the help of what houfe-dung they can produce. The fea-
weed is no doubt a very rich and productive manure, but
is of little ufe to the ground but for the preſent crop.
This they lay on the fields which had produced oats the pre-
ceding ſeaſon, and this is done immediately after harveſt,
and during the winter, as often as the wind and tides bring
this manure afhore. In the ſpring ſeaſon, after the oats are
fown, the farmer gives the wared land one ploughing,
which they call their fallow. Sometimes, when the ware
does not come afhore in the winter feafon, it comes at the
time of their fallow, which obliges the farmer to put it on
the land immediately from the ftrand. This manure does
not anſwer ſo well for moft foils as the winter ware, yet
it generally anſwers pretty well. When the ware here is
got in the proper ſeaſon, it is carried up from the ſtrand,
and laid in heaps on the banks, and there it is allowed to
lie till it acquires a confiderable degree of heat or fermen-
tation; this is reckoned a good preparation for this kind of
manure, and in this way is moft productive. There is a
variety of foils in this pariſh, and they differ very much from
one another in the fame corner. There is a good deal of
the land compoſed of a rich black mould; fome again con-
fifting of black mould with a mixture of fand; in other
parts, clay mixed with fand; in fome places, black mould
mixed with peat mofs; and finally, there is much land
confifting of nothing but pure fand; when plenty of good
ware is laid on fuch foil as this, it will yield a tolerable
crop. The ground here is generally of a free and light
nature, and cannot bear much labouring. The farmer gives
the bear land one ploughing only after the fallow, at the
time he fows the feed, the foil being fo light and free, it
requires
254
Statistical Account
requires very little of the harrow, which inftrument is gene-
rally made with wooden teeth. In fome places, it is true, the
better and more fubftantial farmers, and where the foil is
ftronger, begin now to uſe the iron-teethed harrow. How-
ever, it may be depended upon as a certain fact, that agri-
culture will only be a fecondary confideration in this coun-
try, while kelp continues to fell at any tolerable price; and
in this the landholders cannot be blamed, as the kelp yields
them ready and certain profits. Many of the lands in
Orkney, which are burdened with high fuperiorities, with-
out this valuable article of kelp, would have long ago been
in the hands of the fuperior.
Churches, &c.-There are three churches or places of
worſhip in this parish, two in the island of Weftray, one of
which is called St Mary's, and the other Crofs Kirk; St
Mary's kirk is diftant from the manfe above 4 Engliſh
miles; the other, Croſs Kirk, is diſtant 3 miles, and the
kirk or place of worship in the island of Papa Westray, is
diftant from the manſe a ſpace of between 8 and 9 English
miles. The minifter preaches in thefe different parts of
worſhip by rotation, at leaſt when the weather permits him
to paſs the ferry to Papa Westray. It muft appear pretty
fingular, that all thefe places of worship are placed at fuch
a diſtance from the manfe; the ſpace between the manſe
and the place of worſhip in the iſland of Papa Weſtray, is a
journey which can ſcarcely be accompliſhed in the ſpace of
two hours.
This charge might have been rendered more commo-
dious for the minifter, and centrical for the people, by re-
moving the manfe from its prefent fituation.
But though
the prefent incumbent petitioned the heritors for this pur-
pofe, they would not agree to any propofal of this kind.
The prefent incumbent could not afford to lay out money
in
of Weftray.
255
a procefs of this kind, without public aid, by which
he has hitherto not profited; and therefore judged it.
more eligible for himſelf to put up with his preſent fitua-
tion, than involve himſelf in a law-fuit, which might be
attended with an expence far above his circumſtances to
bear. It may almoſt indeed be looked upon as a problem
why the manfe fhould be placed at fuch a distance from
the places of worship. In anſwer to this, prior to, and
during the incumbency of Mr William Blaw, who was or-
dained to this charge fome time after the Revolution, there
was one of the places of worſhip only one mile diſtant from
the manfe. But this houſe was ſuffered to go to ruin in
the time of Mr Blaw's incumbency, and was never after
repaired or rebuilt to any of the prefent incumbent's two
predeceffors. For a confiderable time there was only one
place of worſhip in the iſland of Weftray, and this too be-
coming ruinous in the laft incumbent's time, the heritors
at laſt thought of building a centrical church for the whole.
ifland; but however beneficial to the heritors, miniſter, and
people, this ſcheme was entirely dropped, and upon this the
heritors refolved to have two places of worſhip as formerly,
to the great inconveniency both of the minifter and people.
Stipend.-State of the miniſter's ſtipend in Weſtray and
Papa Weftray, at the converfion of L. 2 Scots per miel of
bear, on the bear pundler of Orkney, L. 4 Scots per miel
of malt, and L. 7, 4s. Scots per miel of oat-meal, and L. 30
Scots per barrel of butter:
To 36 miels two fettins of bear, and in ſmall parcels, in the
name of vicarage bear teind,
To 4 miels 2 fettins teind malt,
To 4 miels teind oat-meal,
L. 73
Q Q
16 13
4
28 16 0
!
Carried over, L. 118 9 4
}
256
Statiſtical Account
;
Brought over,
L. 118
9
4
To 2 barrels and a half teind butter,
To theep teind, computed to be
To lamb teind,
To calf teind,
To money ftipend,
75 о
33
18
7
3 12
о
300 0 0
L. 548 8 4
This is the amount of the ftipend of Weftray, as given in
by the prefent incumbent's predeceffor to the Court of
Seffion, as far back as the year 1773, when he commenced
a procefs of augmentation against the heritors of Weftray;
and in the month of Auguft 1777, he obtained from the
Court a decreet of modification, decerning and ordaining the
ftipend of Weftray and Papa Weftray to have been for crop
and year of God 1773, fince fyne and in time coming, 36
miels 3 fettins of bear, 4 miels 2 fettins of malt, 4 meils
oat-meal, and 2 barrels of butter, with L. 551 17:4
Scots, and L. 33:6:8 Scots, for furniſhing the commu-
nion-elements. It appears, therefore, by this ſtate, that the
ftipend of Weftray, by the above decree of modification, is
L. 778 13 4 Scots, and reckoning along with this the
value of the glebes, and a little kelp burnt by the miniſter,
the ftipend of Weftray may be about L. 70 Sterling com-
munibus annis. But after all this account of ftipend, it
must be underſtood, that there is no decreet of locality paſt
on the decreet of modification, in which cafe, all this aug-
mentation, which amounts to L. 19: 39 Sterling per an
num, remains in the heritors hands, ten years of which be-
long to the prefent incumbent, and the other ten years
augmentation to the laft incumbent's heirs. From the
above account, the flipend of Weftray is in a very ruinous
dilapidated ſtate at prefent, nor will it be eafy for the pre-
fent
of Westray.
257
fent incumbent to get the ftipend put upon a better footing,
without the affiſtance of the public funds of the Church.
Minifters Names, who in fucceffion have filled the charge
in the parish of Weftray fince the Revolution.-Mr William
Blaw, the first fettled here after that period, there is no re-
cord of the date of his fettlement or death. Mr Andrew
Cowan, fettled 27th June 1735, died 28th July 1760. Mr
Nicol Spence, fettled 22d July 1761, died 25th April
1783: And Mr James Izat, fettled 15th April 1784.
Poor.-The number of poor on the roll in the iſlands of
Weftray and Papa Weftray are 60 and upwards, for the
ſupport of which the money arifing from collections, fines,
c. is by no means adequate. All the money collected
in this way, good and bad, does not exceed L. 9 Sterling
yearly, from which must be deducted one third part at leaſt
for bad copper, and out of the remaining fmall fum, the
precentor and kirk-officer are paid their refpective falaries.
It may be a ſubject of enquiry then, by what means are
fuch a numerous poor ſupported? Surely, at this rate, one
ſhould think that they muſt be in a very deplorable condi-
tion. They are fupplied from the families who are in any
kind of tolerable circumſtances. Such of the poor who are
able to come out, go from houfe to houfe; thoſe again
who are confined by old age, infirmity, or diftrefs of any
kind, employ fome friend, neighbour, or acquaintance, to
aſk alms for them; but to fuch as have no body to pro-
cure any thing for them in this way, the neceffaries of life
are ſent to their own houfes. It is a confideration, in-
deed, which is very much to the credit and honour of this
place, that by fuch a mode the poor are tolerably provided
for; at the fame time, it is no doubt a very confiderable
burden on the inhabitants.
VOL. XVI.
K k
After
:
!
!
258
Statiſtical Account
After all, the minifter of Weftray is very fenfible, that
if any plan could be adopted here for eſtabliſhing a poors
rate, this would lay the burden of the poor more equally
on the inhabitants of any parish, and more eſpecially on
the rich landholders, who are unquestionably obliged to
affefs themſelves for the fupport of the poor, when the
public funds of a pariſh are infufficient for this purpoſe.
Schools, &c.—With regard to the ſtate of this pariſh as to
a ſchool or fchools for the education of youth, and their
inftruction in Chriftian knowledge, it has been in a
very deftitute condition for many years paft. In the year
1792, there was a teacher firſt ſent from the Society for
Propagating Chriftian Knowledge; but he, upon obtaining
a better place in his own country, vix the county of Mo-
ray, left this parish a little before Whitſunday laſt.
By
another application to the Society for the continuance of
their bounty, there is fome profpect of a ſchool being again
eftabliſhed in this place, upon the fame bounty, at Whit-
funday firſt. It muſt naturally occur to every thinking
and well-difpofed mind, that the numerous youth in this
place muſt be in a very deftitute condition for want of edu-
cation, when they grow up to men and womens eſtate
without being taught to read. In a lift of the number of
fouls, which was accurately taken up in this pariſh two
years ago, the number of children at ten years and under
amounted to 360. What is to be expected from children.
thus trained up in ignorance, and deprived of the means of
religious knowledge in their youth? It is too obvious to
make any comment upon it. This is an evil which will
not be eaſily removed, without the interpofition of public
-aid, as many of the inhabitants are in very poor and indi-
gent circumſtances.
Population.
of Weftray:
259
Population, Sc.-According to Dr Webfter, the number
of fouls in 1755 was 1290. The number at preſent
(1793) in the parish of Weftray, comprehending the iflands
of Weftray, and Papa Weftray, with the proportion of
males and females, and number of houfes, are as follow:
Houſes.
205
Males.
759
Females,
870
Total.
1629
Births and Baptiſms within the parish of Weftray, fince
the 15th April 1784:
Year.
Male.
Female.
Total.
1784,
14
16
30
1785,-
19
ΙΟ
29
1786,
13
21
34
1787,
21
14
35
1788,
23
12
35
1789,
21
14
35
1790,
16
17
33
1791,
19
16
35
1792,
17
14
31
1793,
28
27
55
191
161
352
Marriages in the parish of Weſtray fince the 9th May
1784:
Year.
Marriages.
Year:
Marriages.
1784,
4
Brought over,
49
1785,
4
1790,
15
1786,
11
1791,
4
1787,
4
1792,
18
1788,
14
1793,
16
1789,
12
Total,
102
Carried over, 49
Rental
:
260
Statifical Account
Rental of the Iſland of Weftray, &c.
Paid to the heritors of real rent,
L. 305 0
To rent, feus, and teind paid to Sir Thomas
Papa Westray,
Dundas, the fuperior,
Real rent to the proprietor of the island of
To Sir Thomas Dundas, feu and teind,
180
70
48 0 0
Tatal,
L. 603 0
O
Quantity of kelp burnt yearly in Weftray,
In the iſland of Papa Westray,
280 tons.
༡༠
Total,
350 tons.
Number of ploughs in the iſland of Weftray, one half with
four horfes, the other half with three,
Ploughs in Papa Weftray,
Total,
144
24
168
Number of oxen-carts in Weftray, with two oxen in the
cart, employed in manuring the land, &c.
In Papa Westray,
Total
45
5
50
Number of boats, horſes, horned cattle, ſheep, and ſwine in
parish of Weftray :
Boats,
82
Sheep,
Horſes,
825
Swine,
Horned cattle
1074
1843
417
It will be neceffary to obferve under this article, that
the boats mentioned in the above lift are not properly fiſh-
ing-boats. There are none in this parish who earn their
bread
of Westray.
264
bread by fishing. It is true, theſe boats fometimes go to
fea for the purpoſe of fiſhing cod, cooths, and tibrics, which
are the ſmall or young cooths. All the fiſh the people
take in this way are confumed in their own families; and
all the fish they can catch are but a ſmall pittance for their
ſupport. Fiſhing on this coaſt would be a very precarious
buſineſs; there has fcarcely been taken here, for years paft,
fish of any kind. The above boats are neceffarily kept by
the people for paffing ferries, and thereby tranſporting hi-
ther and thither whatever the inhabitants of theſe iſlands
have occafion for..
Fishery, &c.-There is cod-fifhing, though very incon-
fiderable, both on the fouth and north fide of Weſtray;
but the north ſea is by far the beſt fiſhing ground, where, in
fome particular feafons, there has been both cod and ling
taken, though not for years paft, in any confiderable quan-
tities.
Cooths are a fpecies of fifh, which in this country they
call grey fish. The proper feafon for taking theſe fif
commences about the middle of June, and continues till the
month of Auguft, and fometimes longer, if the weather be
favourable.
The time of fiſhing the young cooths or tibricks, begins
about the middle of Auguft, and continues through the
winter, if the feafon is favourable.
There is another fpecies of fish caught here, called the
dog-fiſh, about the fize of a middling cod, with a large
head; they are but a coarfe kind of fifh; what renders
them valuable is, that their livers yield a goodly quantity
of the very best oil. The feafon for catching theſe fish is
the fame with that of the cooths.
With regard to the rapidity of the tides, currents, and
foundings among the islands, the beſt information on this
head
;
262
Statistical Account
head is to be got from Mr Murdoch Mackenzie's draughts,
where all theſe particulars are laid down in the moſt accu-
rate manner.
Mills.-In Weftray there are three water-mills and one
wind-mill. In Papa Weftray, one water-mill.
Number of Tradefmen of different kinds in the Parish of
Weavers
Shoemakers*,
Tailors,
Wrights,
Weftray.
23 Boatbuilders,
5 Blackſmiths,
5 Merchants,
3 In all,
a
4
:
47
Shipping, &c.—Two floops of between 70 and 80 tons
burden belong to the iſland of Weftray. Theſe veffels for
the most part are employed in carrying kelp to the mar-
ket.
On the N. and W. of the island of Weftray, there is one
good fecure harbour, called Pyrawall; this harbour can
admit veffels only of a ſmall burden.
Antiquities. At the head of the bay which forms the
harbour ſtands a ſtately Gothic ruin, called the caftle of
Noltland, part of which has never been finiſhed. This
houſe is built at a ſmall diſtance from the fhore, and ſtands
on an eminence gently declining towards the fea. The
face of the ground between this ruin and the fea is a beauti-
ful green, covered with the richeſt paſture in the fummer
feafon.
*Perhaps it may appear pretty odd that the lift of fhoemakers is fo
fmall, and that there is no mention of coopers. The reaſon is this, that
many in the parish can make fhoes of a coarfer kind, yet they do not live
by this bufinefs; fo in like manner there are feverals, who can work in
the cooper bufinefs, though none do it folely for their fubfiftence.
i
263
of Weftray.
--
feafon. There is a traditionary account here, that this
houſe was intended as a place of retreat for Mary Queen of
Scots and Bothwell from the then prevailing disturbances;
but upon Mary and Bothwell's defeat, the caftle of Nolt-
land, and fome adjoining lands, were granted to a gentle-
man of the name of Balfour, who put the Balfour's arms
on this houſe. This gentleman was either a brother, or a
near relation of a Sir James Balfour, who was Governor of
the Caſtle of Edinburgh at that time. Though this caſtle
of Noltland, and the adjoining lands, are now the property
of another family, yet Mr John Balfour of Trenaby, the
defcendent and reprefentative of the above proprietors of
Noltland, has ſtill a confiderable property in Weſtray.
In ſeveral places along the ſhores of the iſland of Weſt-
ray you meet with graves, which are certainly of a very
ancient date. On the north-weft fhore of this ifland, and
not far from the houfe of Trenaby, fome of theſe graves
were opened a few years ago, and among the aſhes were
found one or two ſhort ſabres or fwords, which were per-
fectly entire as to the fhape, though much confumed with
ruft. There was alfo found at the fame time, in one of theſe
graves, a ſmall drinking veffel, though it could not be ea-
fily diſtinguiſhed of what materials it was made. When or
how theſe bodies came to be lodged in this place, at ſuch a
diſtance from the common place of interment, is not eaſy
to conjecture. But when ſpeaking of theſe things, the mi-
nifter of Weſtray muſt take notice, that there are two re-
markable graves by the fea-fhore, at half an Engliſh mile
from the manfe. The one of theſe graves is large, the
other of a ſmall ſize; the latter, which is at ſome diſtance
from the larger grave, is placed within a fmall circle of
ftones, which is equal with the furface of the grave. The
pofition of theſe graves is from N. to S. with four grey
ftones fet on edge, and placed at equal diſtances from one
another,
264
Statiſtical Account
another, and in a crofs direction from the one end of the
grave to the other. Theſe graves are certainly of very
great antiquity, and perfectly agree with Offian and Fin-
gal's deſcription; which, as above, is four grey ſtones
placed on edge and acroſs the grave from head to foot, and
at equal diſtances from one another. That theſe places are
fepulchres of the dead, there can be no doubt; the miniſter
of Weftray faw on this fame ground (which confifts entire-
ly of fand) different human bones, and particularly a ſkull,
pretty entire.
}
Fuel-There is only one peat mofs in the iſland of
Weftray, and none other in the parish; this is the exclufive
property of one heritor, who a few years ago has prohi-
bited almoſt all the inhabitants from the benefit of this
mofs, excepting his own tenants. Neither can this necef-
fary article be procured from any of the neighbouring
iflands, the proprietors there being equally tenacious of
their property, and, at the ſame time, under fome appre-
henfions of theſe moffes wearing out, neither money nor
intereft can prevail with them to ferve the inhabitants of
Weſtray with an article ſo much needed. This is a moſt
diftreffing confideration to a great number of the inhabi-
tants of Weftray; and indeed it appears fimply impoffible
for a great many of theſe to fubfift, unless a fupply of coal
be henceforth imported.
i
NUM-
of Glenelg.
265
NUMBER XV.
PARISH OF GLENELG,
(COUNTY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF GLENELG, AND
PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON),
By the Rev. Mr COLIN MACIVER, Minifter.
G
Origin of the Name.
LENELG, the ancient and modern name, is fuppofed
to be made up of the Gaelic words, glen, fignifying
a valey, and feilg, hunting; or glen, a valley, and elid, a
roe.
.
Situation, Extent, and Surface.—The parish lies in the
County of Inverneſs, Synod to which it gives its name,
and prefbytery of Lochcarron. It is divided into three
diſtricts: 1ft, Glenelg, where the church and manſe are ſi-
tuated, the property of Colonel Macleod of Macleod; 2d,
Knowdort, ſeparated from Glenelg by an arm of the fea
called Lochurn, the property of Macdonells of Glengarry
and Scothouse; 3d, North-morror, feparated from Know-
VOL. XVI.
L1
dort
266
Statiſtical Account
dort by another arm of the fea, called Lochneavis, the pro-
perty of the family of Lovat. The parish may be fuppo-
fed to extend from N. to S. about zo miles, and the fame
number of miles from E. to W. It is bounded on the
N. E. and E. by the parish of Glenfheal, county of Rofs, a
ridge of hills making the diviſion; on the S. E. and S. by
the out-ſkirts of the countries of Glengarry and Lochaber;
on the S. W. by the freſh water lake called Loch-morror,
this lake dividing the parish of Ardnumorechuan from that
of Glenelg; and on the N. W. by the navigable and much
frequented found that ſeparates the island of Sky from the
continent of Great Britain.
In the district of Glenelg there are two vallies, through
each of which a river runs; the inhabitants refide in fepa-
rate villages on each fide of the rivers; their arable land
extending along the banks, and on the declivity of the
hills; fome of them alfo dwell on Lochurn-fide. In this
diſtrict the foil is good; part of a deep black loam, and
part of a fandy gravel, formerly the bed of the rivers,
yielding crops of potatoes and oats, and the hills afford good
pafture for cattle. In Knowdort the inhabitants dwell in
villages bordering on the fea, along the fides of Lochurn
and Lochneavis; here the foil is in general light, yielding
crops of barley, oats, and potatoes. The hills, though high,
are moſtly green to the top, and afford excellent pafture for
all kinds of cattle. North-morror is rocky and mountain-
ous, moftly adapted for cattle.
Air and Climate,-The air is moist, the rains being fre-
quent, as the wind moftly blows from the S. and W.; not-
withſtanding, the people are healthy. The conſtant but
moderate exerciſe, which is neceffary for herding the cat-
tle, and the fea-air enjoyed during the fishing-feafons, are,
favourable to health. There are at prefent in the diſtrict
of
of Glenelg.
267
of Glenelg 63 perfons from the age of 70 to 80 and up-
wards, as may be ſeen from the following ftate of the po
pulation, as afcertained in the year 1793.
Males,
Females,
Total inhabitants,
Suppoſed to emigrate
from the year 1770
to 1774,
Emigrated in 1785,
Population, &c.
635 Weavers and weaver-
651 effes,
Tailors,
1286 Clergyman,
Schoolmafters,
Merchant,
100
25
8
I
2
I
2
I
...
160
Millers,
14 Innkeeper,
Ditto in 1787,
ΙΟ
Ditto in 1793,
130
In the diſtrict of Knowdort.
Ann. average of births,
38
Proteftants,
150
Ditto of marriages,
12
Proteftant miffionary,
I
Heads of families,
178
Papiſts,
850
Under 10 years old,
401
Prieft,
I
Between 10 and 20,
232
Surgeon,.
20 and 50,
456
Emigrated from Know-
50 and 70,
134
dort from the year
From 70 and upwards,
63
1770 to 1793,
800
Smiths,
2
Papifts in North-morror, 460
Wrights,
2
Prieſt,
I
Total inhabitants in Glenelg,
1286
Ditto in Knowdort,
1000
Ditto in North-morror,
460
poſed)
Inhabitants of the whole parish,
Emigrated at different periods from Glenelg, (fup-
Ditto from Knowdort,
The return to Dr Webfter,
2746
324
800
&
1816
Seed
A
268
Statistical Account
Seed-time and Harvest.-The oats are commonly ſown
in the latter end of March and beginning of April; imme-
diately thereafter the potatoes are planted, and then the
barley. The hay-harveſt commences the latter end of
July and beginning of Auguſt, moſtly raiſed from meadow
ground; the barley and oats are cut down in September
and October; but owing to the deluges of rain that too
often fall about this ſeaſon of the year, the hay as well as
other crops are often not fecured till November. Gra-
zing ſeems to be the only kind of farming for which this
country is adapted; from neceffity, and not choice, agri-
culture is carried on; the frequent rains, together with the
inundations of the rivers, prove fo deftructive as to render
the crops fometimes infipid and ufelefs; but the price of
meal, which is confiderably advanced fince the late corn-
bill paffed in Parliament, will ftill urge them to continue.
their old method of farming with all its difadvantages, it
being impoffible to purchafe the quantity required at fuch
exorbitant prices. In the moft favourable feafons, the crops
raiſed are barely fufficient for the maintenance of their
families during three-fourths of the year; and in fummer,
the fupplies from other markets are always fcanty and
precarious, owing to the tedious navigation from the eaſt
of Scotland, and the impractibility of land-carriage over a
hilly diſtrict, more than 50 computed miles in length.
Black Cattle and Sheep.-The cows in this parifh are of a
good kind, well ſhaped and piled, and being ſeldom houſed,
very hardy; and thoſe reared on the larger farms are per-
haps equal to moſt ſtocks on the weft coaft, particular atten-
tion being paid by the farmers in keeping handſome and
proper bulls; but they juftly complain, that the prices
fetched are not equal to the expence and pains taken in
fearing them fuch cattle, when fold in parcels, give from
:
L. 3,
of Glenelg.
269
L. 3, 10s. to L. 4 Sterling; and thofe fold by the lower
clafs of tenants fetch from two to three guineas each. The
› eftate of Scothouſe, as alſo a great part of Glengarry's pro-
perty, together with one farm on Macleod's eſtate, are
moftly laid out in fheep-walks; the fheep are of the black-
faced kind, and are thought to be good, as the wedders of
three years old, reared on two of the farms, have hitherto
given from 15 s. to 16 s. each at an average. The white
wool fells from 6 s. to 8 s. and the tared wool from 4 s. to
6s. the ftone. The quantity fold is fuppofed to be up-
wards of 1500 ftones, Greenock, Dumbarton, and Liver-
pool, being the ports to which it is carried, and fome of it
alſo diſpoſed of to the country people. Emigration is thought
to be owing in a great meaſure to the introduction of sheep,
as one man often rents a farm where formerly many fa-
nilies lived comfortably; and if the rage for this mode of
farming goes on with the fame rapidity it has done for
fome years back, it is to be apprehended emigration will
ftill increaſe. But this is not folely the caufe; the high
rents demanded by landlords, the increaſe of population,
and the flattering accounts received from their friends in
America, do alſo contribute to the evil.
Fish.-Skate, ling, and cod are to be got along the coaſt
of the pariſh, but fythe or pollock is caught in the greateſt
abundance, which in fummer is chiefly the fupport of the
poor people. The herring fishing deferves to be particu-
larly mentioned, as in Lochurn they make their appearance
fo early as July, and continue from that period to the mid-
dle of autumn. Here the buffes from the frith of Clyde
commonly affemble firſt, befides a vast number of boats, which
croud together from the neighbouring pariſhes and ifles ad-
jacent. It is computed for fome years back 30,000 barrels
have been annually caught in this loch; but the want of
falt
270
Statiſtical Account
falt prevents the natives from turning to advantage this
bounty of Providence, which from their local fituation.
they might otherwife do; at prefent, they are content with
fishing a barrel or two to help the maintenance of their, fa-
milies. Certainly it must be an impolitic law that impofes
fo high a duty on one of the moſt neceffary articles of con-
fumption in life.
The
crow, with
Birds, and wild Animals.-The migratory birds are, the
Swallow, the cuckoo, the field-fare, and wood-cock.
birds of prey are the eagle, the raven, and grey crow,
three ſpecies of the hawk, and two of the kite. The game
birds are, the tarmargan, groufe, black-cock, fnipe, heath-
hen, with a few partridge. The aquatic birds are fuch as
are common on the weſt coaſt. The deer and roe ſtill fre-
quent the hills and woods on Lochurn-fide; the mountain
hare, together with the fox, the badger, and weafel, are na-
tives of this country; and the amphibious animals are the
feal and otter.
Tides.-The tides run very ſtrong, both in Lochurn and
Lochneavis; but the moft remarkable current in this parish,
or perhaps in all the weſt coaſt, is to be ſeen at Kylerea, the
name of the found that ſeparates Sky from the main land;
at ſpring-tides it runs fo rapidly as to render it impoffible
for any veffel to pass through with a fresh breeze, and the
wind never ſo favourable. Mackenzie, in his chart, rec-
kons its velocity equal to nine notes an hour. Over this
found the black cattle annually driven to market from Sky,
and part of the Long-ifland are made to fwim; and though
the current is ſo very ftrong, yet few accidents happen.
The number cannot be exactly afcertained, but in general
they may be reckoned about 2000.
Antiquities.
of Glenelg.
271
Antiquities.-There have been many caftles or round
towers in this parish, two of which are yet pretty entire,
and are much vifited by travellers. There are various
opinions refpecting the uſe they were intended for; but
the one given by the late learned Dr Macpherſon of Slate,
in his Antiquities of Scotland, feems to be the moſt pro-
bable. There is alſo fituated on an eminence above the
manſe the remains of an old fortification, of which Mr Pen-
nant takes notice in his Tour; befides, there is ftill to be
feen on the top of a rock, not far from the ſea, the foundation
of an old building made up of ftone and lime, and yet there
is no tradition concerning it. There are fome tumuli or
barrows; one of them being opened up not many years.
ago, there was found in it an urn, containing as is fuppofed
the afhes of fome ancient warrior.
Barracks. In the year 1722, fhortly after the battle of
Glenfheal, Government thought it neceffary to erect a
fmall fortification on the weft coaft, and pitched on a spot
of ground in this pariſh as a proper fituation, being in the
direct line from Fort Auguftus to the iſland of Sky. From
that period till after the 1745, there were commonly one
or two companies of foot quartered there; but fince, a
fmaller command was deemed fufficient; and for 20 years
back there have been only a ferjeant or corporal, with a
few privates. Of the houſe that was formerly appropri-
ated for the ufe of the foldiers, the fkeleton only remains,
but the officers barracks are ſtill habitable.
Church.-The living of this parish is L. 55: 17: 74;
46 bolls of oat-meal, 9 ftones of Dutch weight to the boll,
which at an average may be valued at L. 41, 8 s. and 12
bolls bear, at the converfion of 10 merks Scots per boll, be-
fides a ſmall farm annexed to the church, which may be
valued,
272
Statistical Account
I
valued, including the glebe, at L. 12, fo that the value of
the whole living amounts to L. 115 18:11. The pre-
fent minifter was admitted in the year 1782, is married,
and has five children, three fons and two daughters. His
predeceffors in office were Meffrs Donald Macleod, Mur-
doch Macleod, and John Morriſon. The church is fituated
near the fea, and is in tolerable good order. The manfe,
by being built on an eminence, is much expofed to the
wefterly winds; and though repaired in the year 1785, is
far from being at preſent in a fufficient ſtate. Colonel Mac-
leod of Macleod is patron of the pariſh.
School.
The ſchool-houfe ftands at the diſtance of a
fhort mile from the church. During the fummer, the num-
ber of ſcholars that attend may be about 45.
The falary
is 300 merks Scots, paid by the Laird of Macleod and the
tenants of his eftate; the other diftricts were never ceffed
with any proportion; the emoluments arifing to the fchool-
mafter are trifling, fo that his income will not much exceed
L. 20 Sterling. It is melancholy to think, that in every
part of Scotland fo little attention fhould be paid to the
moſt uſeful members of fociety. In this diſtrict there is à
fchool, folely at the expence of the inhabitants, who fend
their children to it; the number of boys and girls that at-
tend are 38. In Knowdort, there is one of the Society
ſchools; the teacher has a falary of L. 12 Sterling allowed
him; and ſcholars are from 30 to 40 in number.
Poor.-The number of poor on the roll of this parish at
preſent is 31; they feldom or ever travel to beg elſewhere;
are ſupported chiefly by the inhabitants, only in ſummer
they receive a ſmall ſupply in meal from the funds col-
lected upon Sundays, which at an average come to L. 7 or
L. 8 Sterling a-year.
3
Fuel
1
273
of Glenelg.
Fuel-The fuel made ufe of in this parish is péats,
which are feldom good, owing to the rainy feafons, and
the moſs being at a diſtance from their dwelling-houſes, fo
much time, labour, and expence is loft in fecuring them,
that it is a matter of doubt whether coals be not cheaper.
Though they have not yet availed themſelves of the libe
rality of Parliament in taking the duty off coal, it is pro-
bable they will foon find it their intereft to import it.
Character of the Inhabitants.-The tackfmen of this pa-
riſh are very refpectable, both with regard to information
and propriety of conduct, they live comfortably, and are
hoſpitable to ſtrangers; the lower clafs of tenants are ſober
and ſtrictly honeft, and by no means deficient in charity to
the poor. If a manufacture for coarſe cloths on a finall
ſcale was eſtabliſhed in a village lately planned out by the
Laird of Macleod, it could not fail of fucceeding and em-
ploying many idle hands. The raw materials are to be
had in the pariſh, and can be conveyed by water from each
fhepherd's ſtorehouſe at an eaſy expence. A net-manu-
facture might be carried on with advantage alſo; the ſpin-
ning of the hemp and twining of the yarn would employ
the old, and the making of the nets promote induſtry
among the young; very little capital would be requifite for
both branches. In this village there are at preſent up-
wards of 100 fouls.
i
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.-The valued rent of the pa-
rifh is L. 3565 Scotch; the land-rent cannot be aſcertained,
but muft exceed confiderably L. 2000. As there are no
markets for provifions, their prices cannot be exactly
known; every family kill for themſelves what butcher
meat is requifite. Men fervants maintained in the family
receive per annum from L. 2 to L. 3 for wages; the wo-
VOL. XVI.
M m
mer
274
Statiſtical Account
3
}
ì
men from 10s. to L. 1, befides fhoes, and other cafualties.
Wrights receive Is. per day, and their victuals; a tailor is
paid per piece, befides his victuals. The roads are bad;
Government propoſed, after the year 1745, to make a mi-
litary road from Fort Auguftus to Barnera barracks in this
parish, and to build bridges over the rivers and burns, ſo
as to render it paffable for the troops and other travellers.
The bridges were first erected by contractors, who made
choice of thoſe parts over the waters where materials could
be had at the cheapeſt rate; by this means the roads were
unavoidably lengthened, and carried over fteep and high
precipices, up and down hill. This made the charge more
troubleſome and vexatious to the military who laboured at
the roads, that in no place or part was the road made ſuffi-
cient, or of proper dimenfions. Provoft Brown of Elgin
was employed in fummer 1792 to furvey this road, attend-
ed by a country gentleman, well acquainted with the pro-
per line to be followed; and as he has given in his report,
it is hoped Government will foon fee this neceffary mea-
fure put in execution. As this line of road is the fhorteſt
from the metropolis to the island of Sky and the Long
Iſland, and many bridges being already built, by which
much expence might be faved, it muſt appear the more eli-
gible to have this line continued. From its prefent fitua-
tion it is impoffible to ride it; by this means travellers
are neceffitated to freight veffels from Argyleſhire at an
enormous expence. A ftage-houfe in the middle of the
hill would be highly proper and neceffary.
#
;
1
NUM.
of Whitborn.
275
1
NUMBER XVI.
+
PARISH OF WHITHORN,
(SYNOD OF GALLOWAY, COUNTY AND PRESBYTERY OF
į
WIGTON.
2 10 P
By ISAAC DAVIDSON; D.D.*
I
t
THIS
Names.
HIS place has. paffed under the following names:
Candida Cafa, Leucopibia, or Leucophibia, Whithern,
or; Whitberne. It is now called Whitborn.
Leucopibia
* In the Statiſtical Account of Sorbie, vol. i. p. 245. there is a mif
take, which I beg leave to correct. It is there faid, "The oak, ah,
46
beech, alder, fir," &c. in that pariſh," are equal to any in their qua-
lity." This is right; the mistake follows: "Lord Galloway has
"found, that pruning makes them grow with great vigour. By expe-
"riment it appears, that plants which were pruned, advanced at the rate
"of four years in fix, before thoſe which were not pruned.”
Upon the above paffage, I obferve:
1. That I never knew the Earl of Galloway order trees to be pruned,
unleſs where their branches became troublefome upon the roads.
2. I
276
Statistical Account
Leucopibia is probably a corruption of Aeux oxidia. This
Campden fuppofes was Ptolemy's tranflation of Candida
Cafa*, which tranfcribers have changed into Leucopibia.
As the Roman and Greek names fignify a white houſe,
or white houses, fo Whithorn is fuppoſed to have the fame
meaning. Campden fays, horn is the Saxon word for a
veffel of any kind, adding, that fome people uſe inkern
for an ink veffel; but it ſeems more probable, that inkern
is a corruption of inkhorn, " a portable cafe for the inftru-
"ments of writing, commonly made of horn t.”
As there are the remains of a Roman camp within one
mile's diſtance of the town, may not Whithern be a cor-
ruption of Via Fertiæ, i. e. Legionis, vel Cobortis Via
Tertia might eaſily paſs into Vitern, and Vitern again into
Whithern. In Britain, the V is often changed into W,
and the W into V. Thus, in London, many fay," Weal,
"Vine, and Winegar, are wery good wittles, I wow."
;
The Town defcribed. The town confifts chiefly of one
ftreet, running from N. to S. From this ftreet there are
feveral alleys ftretching to the E. and to the W. About
the centre of the town, there is a good hall for public meet-
ings, adorned with a fpire and turrets, and provided with
a fet of bells. A beautiful ftream of water, over which
there is a good bridge, runs acroſs the main ftreet, dividing
it nearly into two equal parts. The houſes are generally
covered with flates, and made very commodious.
Ancient
2. I did not mean to afcribe the quick growth of trees to pruning, but
to cutting over in an horizontal direction. From the ſtocks, ſhoots will
fpring to justify my remark. This treatment I have only known applied
to oaks and aſhes; to firs it would be death.
* See his Britannia, by Gibfon, p. 1200.
See Johnfon in verbo,
!
w
277
of Whithorn.
1
Ancient Church, and Priory.-Ninian, who went to
Rome in the year 370, was ordained a Bishop of the Bri-
tons, and founded a church here in the fourth century,
which he dedicated to St Martin *. Of this church, no-
thing now remains but ruins, and four Gothic arches,
which make part of the prefent place. of public worship.
Theſe are upon high ground, on the weft fide of the town..
Here was a Premonftratenfion Priory, endowed as fol-
lows:
Paid to it of money,
L. 1016 3 4
Of bear, 15 chalders, 14 bolls, 2 firlots, 3 peck's.
Of meal, 51 chalders, 15 bolls, i firlot, 3 pecks,
The above account is taken from the collector's book,
made about the year 1563. The furplus book, made a-
bout the year 1594, makes it more, and is as follows † :
Paid to it of money,
L. 1159 3 4
Of bear, 16 chalders, 6 bolls, 3 firlots.
Of meal, 53 chalders, 9 bolls, 2 firlots.
As Keith makes no mention of wheat being paid to the
Biſhop of Galloway, to this Priory, or that of St Mary
Iſle, to the Abbeys of Dundrenan, New Abbey, Saulfcat,
or Tungland, it may be prefumed that it was not produced
in this part of the country t
?
Antiquity of the Place.-Whithorn is a place of great
antiquity, as it was a Roman ftation, the capital of the No-
vantes,
*Smith ad Bede, p. 106. and Redpath's Border Hift. p. 20.
Keith's Hift. Appendix, b. 3. p. 181.
Since writing the above, a friend of mine informs me, that wheat was
paid to the Abbot of New Abbey, near Glenluce, and founds his opinion
upon a charter of lands in that neighbourhood.
273
Statistical Account
vantes, a Britiſh tribe, which poffeffed all Galloway be-
yond the river Dee*, and fo early the feat of religion.
Mr Pinkerton fays †, the bishopric of Galloway, or Whit-
horn, is the oldeſt in Scotland.'
A Royal Burgh-It is now a Royal Burgh, governed
by a provoft, two bailies, and fifteen councillors. :
a
Boundaries and Extent.-This pariſh lies in the ſhire and
prefbytery of Wigton, and Synod of Galloway, being part
of the peninſula formed, on one fide by Wigton Bay and
Solway Frith, and on the other by Luce Bay. From the
place where it joins Sorbie, it ftretches along the eaſtern
coaft, doubling Burgh Head, and looking towards the Mull
of Galloway, the ancient Novantum Cherfonefus and Pro-
montorium. From N. to S. it meaſures about feven miles
and three quarters; and from E. to W. about four miles
and one quarter. It is bounded by Wigton Bay, Solway
Frith, and the parish of Sorbie, on the E.; by Luce Bay
and the parish of Glafferton,, on the W.; and by the pa-
rifhes of Glafferton and Sorbie, on the N.
Face of the Country.-The face of the country is varie-
gated with hills and valleys. In fome places, the land is
broken, and appears barren at a diſtance, but upon exami-
nation, it is found deep and rich. Such land here is dry,
provided with ſhelter, and of the firſt quality for grazing.
The foil of this pariſh is in general fertile, divided by ſtone
walls, covered with lime, fea fhells or marl, and produces
rich crops, or feeds the best cattle.
Whitaker's Hift. of Manchester, 2d edit. vol. i. p. 97.
Vol. ii. p. 268.
The
of Whitborn.
279
!
The face of the country is improving daily, not only
by the cultivation beftowed upon the land, but by a
paffion for planting which fhews itſelf among the land-
holders. From the fubterraneous timbers found in all
the moffes, it appears, that this peninfula had been once
well clothed with oaks, firs, &c. It was afterwards ren-
dered perfectly bare, of every tree and fhrub.
Planting.-About the year 1722, William Agnew, Eſq;
late of Caſtlewigg, began to plant upon his eftate, and may
be confidered as the father of this important fpecies of im
provement in this neighbourhood. His nephew Hugh Ha-
thorn, Efq; fucceeded him, and planted with great ſpirit
and fuccefs; ſo that now, every fpecies of oak, afh, beech
and fir, are in great perfection in the foreft; and theſe,
with fingle rows, verges and clumps, have a very happy
effect upon the appearance of the country.
The beeches upon this eftate are of a very large girth,
and great height; and the balın-of-Gilead fir is fuperior
to any I ever faw. The feed of this fir is fent to the Lon-
don market, and is equal to any fold there. Here an at-
tention to the beautiful and uſeful, appears to great advan-
tage in fpring and early fummer, when the larches and
cherry-trees adorn the verges; thoſe with their well-known
luftre, and theſe with charming flowers, rich foliage, and
fhining bark.
Captain Hathorn inherits his father's fpirit as a planter,
and has done, and is doing much in the way of embellish-
ing his eftate. Many things encourage him in an employ-
ment ſo worthy of a man of fortune, particularly the fitua-
tion of the family-feat, a venerable old caſtle, exhibiting a
view of the ſtate and hofpitality of the Scottiſh barons. Its
lodging rooms are numerous, and both thefe and the public
rooms
280
Statistical Account
!
rooms are large, confidering the time in which they were
built. This feat looks down upon a fine low country, of
extent enough to give the beſt effect to a grand chain of
mountains, which are adorned by woods running along
their bafes, and washed by the river Cree. It alfo has a
view of the Bay of Wigton. The veffels moving upon
this bay and the river now mentioned, add much to the
beauty of the ſcene.
The garden is large, continued in the ancient ftyle to
correfpond to the houſe, and well provided with fruit. The
box hedges and yews are remarkable for their beauty, and
ſeveral curious plants flouriſh 'here, particularly the tulip
tree.
Hugh Stewart, Efq; of Tonderghie, has built a very
handſome houfe, which commands a view of England and
the Iſle of Man. His lands being expoſed to ftorms from
the Atlantic Ocean, he has had great difficulties to con-
tend with as a planter; but his found judgment and per-
fevering temper, which have enabled him to give the high-
eft degree of improvement to his family-eftate, will ſecure
him of victory over thefe difficulties, or make them an
eafy conqueft to his fon. Upon this eftate, the effects of,
marl are feen to the greateſt advantage. The land being
covered with this manure, a moderate cropping takes place.
After which it is laid down in the beſt order; and produ-
ces the fineſt and moſt luxuriant paſture.
The Earl of Galloway, and his brother the Honourable
Admiral Stewart, are both planting in this parish, and im-
proving its appearance.
Turnips, &c.-The land here is well fuited to turnips, it
being ſharp and dry, and never expofed to fevere frofts.
This crop, however, is feldom ufed, though its effects in fat-
tening old, and in giving bone to young cattle, are great
and
of Whitborn.
281
and evident. It is long before the tide of opinion turns in
favour of management plainly advantageous in the higheſt
degree. The writer of this report remembers the time in
which there was fcarcely a turnip field to be ſeen in North-
umberland, Roxburghshire, or Berwickshire, where fuch
fields are now ſo much and ſo juſtly valued. The fallow
preceding the turnip, and the turnips themſelves, being of
fuch high confequence to a wife fyftem of agriculture, it
cannot be doubted that the people will foon fall into the
general uſe of this crop. Thoſe who hold this reaſoning
very cheap, perhaps remember when their fathers (like
fome people in Yorkſhire now) thought themſelves well
employed in paring and burning their fine land.
This practice is everywhere reprobated in Galloway,
where burning is never performed but in deep moffes.
The preſent averfion to turnip and fallowing, will foon
fhare the fame fate. The good fenfe of the people, and
their increaſing attention to potato crops, perfuade me of
this. Potato crops are valuable, but not in the fame de-
gree with turnip, as they do not allow fo much time for
fallowing, and as the potato remains in the ground till the
feed is ripe. This laſt circumftance exhauſts the foil.
Fallows were fo much valued in the days of Virgil, that
they were fometimes continued through two ſeaſons.
"Illa feges demum votis refpondet avari
66
Agricolæ, bis quæ folem, bis frigora fenfit,
"Illius immenfæ ruperunt horrea meffis."
"That crop rewards the greedy peafant's pains,
"Which twice the fun and twice the cold fuftains,
"And burſts the crowded barns with more than pro-
"mis'd gains.”
VOL. XVI.
Na
Good
1
282
Statistical Account
Good dwelling-houſes, and office-houfes upon farms, add
much to the appearance of a country; and fure no ſet of
men deſerve good lodgings more than farmers do. In
this pariſh theſe have improved very much within the laft
twenty years. They are often covered with flate, and di-
vided into convenient apartments. Sheds and ſtraw-
yards are coming into general ufe.
Air.-Here the air is dry and healthy, and I never heard
that any diſeaſe became epidemic.
•
Courfe of Crops.-The land being covered with lime,
marl, or fea-fhells, is opened with beer (big), or oats, and
three crops of theſe.fucceed each other. With the laft is
fown rye-grafs and clover feeds, which is cut in the fum-
mer after the grain has been reaped. This hay-crop, as
the rye-graſs generally prevails, is almoſt as fevere upon
the land as oats.
į
Increafe and Weight of Grain.-The average increaſe of
beer, is about eight-fold, and of oats about five-fold. Bar-
ley weighs about 52 lb. bear, 46 lb. and oats, 36 lb. avoir-
dupois, the Wincheſter bufhel.
#
Coaft; Head-lands and Bays.-The extent of coaft is
about nine miles. The ſhore near Burgh Head is bold, and
everywhere rocky. At this headland a lighthouſe would
be of the greateſt uſe to the trade in thoſe parts. Befide
the headland now mentioned, there are Port-Yarrock Head
and Stun Head; and the bays are thofe of Port Allan,
Port Yarrock, and Ifle of Whithorn.
Tides.- From Port Yarrock round Burgh Head, the
ride flows clofe along the fhore three hours, and ebbs nine.
From
I
of Whitborn.
283
i
}
From the Rofs of Kirkcudbright to the Mull of Gallo-
way, it flows and ebbs fix hours.
Sea Fight.-The only ſea fight ſpoken of as having ta-
ken place near this ſhore, is that of Commodore (now Ad-
miral) Elliot, in the year 1760, when that brave and ex-
perienced officer defeated the French fquadron under Thu-
rot, killed Thurot himſelf, and made prizes of all his ſhips.
The Britiſh ſquadron was greatly inferior to the French in
every thing but courage and management. The people in
this part of the country, and the nation in general, owe
great obligations to Admiral Elliot, who quieted their
fears, and placed them in ſafety.
Shipwreck.-About 40 years ago, a veffel 200 tons bur-
den, was blown upon a rock near Burgh Head, where the
was daſhed to pieces. The maft inclining to one fide, and
refting upon the rock, the captain and ten men made their
way to the top of it, where they remained till day-break,
when they defcended by means of their clothes faftened to-
gether, and fome rope which was left on the fide of the
rock by the veffel as fhe funk. The tide having retired,
and the men getting upon the beach, their next effort was
to aſcend a precipice between them and the country. In
making this effort, after ſo much fatigue, nature was ſo far
exhauſted in them, that one of their number dropped down
dead as foon as he reached the top.
The eſcape of theſe men appears very wonderful, and
can only be aſcribed to the watchful providence of God.
The rock, upon which they remained for fome hours, beat
upon by a heavy rain and violent wind, is of a conical
form, 70 feet high and upwards; and about two yards, or
two yards and a half, broad at the top. How they clung
together
}
284
Statistical Account
together and ſtuck to the rock, is more than I can account
for after careful examination of it.
The benevolence and zeal of the gentlemen and people in
the neighbourhood, in comforting and aiding theſe unfor-
tunate men, were fuch as did honour to their feelings; and
the piety of the late Hugh Hathorn, Efq; of Caſtlewigg,
on whoſe ſhore the rock was, led him to call it, the Rock
of Providence.
Of mariners we may well ſay,
'Tis God that brings them fafe to land;
Let every mortal know,
That waves are under his command,
And all the winds that blow.
O that fuch refcu'd men would praiſe
Thy goodneſs, gracious Lord;
And thoſe that fee thy wondrous ways,
Thy wondrous love record.
Dr WATTS, with fome variations.
Marble, Lead, Copper, &c.-Near the rock above men-
tioned, and upon the fame eftate, very fine variegated
marble, and ſtrong flate are found.
Upon the eſtates of Robert Hathorn Stewart, Efq; of
Phifgill, and Hugh Stewart, Efq; of Tonderghie, there are
promifing appearances of lead mines; upon the lands of the
gentleman laſt mentioned there are alſo the ſtrongeſt ap-
pearances of copper. Some time ago, a company of mi-
ners undertook to work it, upon condition, that Mr Stew-
art ſhould have the eighth ſhare of the profits, and be com-
penfated for the damages done to his land; but, unfortu
nately, the principal died, and his heirs did not chuſe to
carry
!
of Whitborn.
285
carry on any thing new. This put an end to the buſineſs
at that time; but furely it cannot be difcontinued long;
and as foon as a perſon of ſpirit and property knows of it,
it will be duly attended to. An old miner examined it
lately, and was delighted with the appearances, lamenting,
at the fame time, his want of power to engage with it. A
fine ſtream of water runs over the ore, and on one fide it is
waſhed by the fea, fo that large veffels can come within
100 yards of it. The Iſle of Whithorn, a fafe port, is at
hand. From this port veffels fail to Whitehaven and
Workington in four hours; to the Iſle of Man in three;
to Dublin, Greenock, and Liverpool in eighteen. Upon
the lands of Tonderghie, pieces of fine copper have been
often found. Lately, a piece of a circular form was found,
weighing 3 ftone and 5 lb. avoirdupois; and fix pieces in
an earthen veffel were diſcovered in the garden of one of
his tenants.
:
Figure
286
Statistical Account
Figure and Size of the Six Pieces of Copper found upon
the Eftate of Hugh Stewart, Efq; of Tonderghie, as men-
tioned in the preceding page.-N. B. On one fide it is
flat, and on the other a little raifed.
i
}
Church.
of Whitborn.
287
The
Church, &c. The parish church, of which his Majeſty
is patron, ſtands upon part of the fcite of the priory, and
is a commondious place of worship. Near to the church.
ſtands the manfe, which is a good uſeful houſe.
ftipend being lately augmented, amounts to about L. 107
Sterling, and the glebe confifts of about feven acres of very
good land. Ifaac Davidfon is the prefent minister, being
lately tranflated to this parish from that of Sorbie. He is
a married man, and has only one child, a fon, Elliot
William Davidfon, who has fucceeded him as minifter of
Sorbie. Meffrs Kelfo, Elder, Delap, Maccaul, and Adair,
preceded one another here in the paftoral office.
Antiquities.-There are the ruins of a church near Iſle
of Whithorn, with a burying ground upon the lands of
Robert Hathorn Stewart, Efq. The people fay this was
the firſt Chriſtian place of worship in Scotland. Between
thefe places there is a ftone, upon which is infcribed, "Hic
“eft locus Petri Apoftoli.'
The remains of feveral camps and caſtles appear upon
the coaft. The following are upon precipices by the
fhore:
Carghidoun, upon the eſtate of Tonderghie, covers about
half an acre of ground.
To the S. of this, about one mile's diſtance, ſtands Caftle
Feather, covering near an acre. Some of the wall of this
fortification remains.
Going ftill fouthward, you meet with another caſtle,
about the fame fize with the former; and at Burgh Head
there are works covering three acres.
Theſe three laſt are about equal diſtances from one an-
other, and ſtand upon the lands of Captain Hathorn of
Caftlewigg.
1
The
!
1
288
Statiſtical Account
The caſtles now mentioned all look to the Iſle of Man,
and are probably the remains of thofe places of defence,
raiſed againſt the Scandinavian rovers, who ufed to make
that ifland the place of their rendezvous, and from whence
they uſed to annoy the Hebrides, Ireland, and Great Bri-
tain. They not only look to the Isle of Man, but ftand
upon that Britiſh ground neareſt to it.
The Roman camp mentioned above, fee p. 276, is the
only one of that deſcription in the parish. It is much de-
faced; yet its remains plainly prove its origin, and that it was
Caftra Stativa. It is upon the lands of the Honourable
Admiral R. Stewart.
Two urns were found on Captain Hathorn's lands, in a
good ftate of preſervation, and are now in his cabinet.
One large piece of copper, of a circular form, was alfo
found by one of his tenants, while dreffing a field, and
brought to him. There is in the fame gentleman's cabi-
net a natural curiofity, which, though a little out of place,
I fhall mention here. It is a ball, which was taken out
of a bullock's ftomach, about the fize of an orange. This
ball, being perforated, appears to be a concretion of hair
which the animal had fwallowed.
Longevity.-There have been ſeveral inſtances of longe-
vity here, and perfons between 70 and 80 years of age
abound. Laſt year (1793) a man died, who was ſaid to
be upwards of 100; but though there are evidences to
fhew that he was a very old man, there are none to fix the
year of his birth.
Mrs Macmillan, widow of Bailie Anthony Macmillan,
late of this burgh, died this year (1794) in her hundredth
year. She lived in this parish, and near neighbourhood
of it, all her life, and was connected with fome of the beft
families of the county. Her age is well authenticated.
She
1
of Whitborn.
289
**She left two fons, one of them a prefent magiftrate in
the burgh, and two daughters. Upon enquiry, I have
found that Mrs Macmillan was bleffed with a good natural
temper, and was always the friend of peace; that the en-
joyed an eaſy and uniform flow of fpirits, and was greatly
eſteemed by her neighbours as a perfon of the beft moral
character. She was remarkable for cleanlinefs in her per-
fon, at her table, and in her houſe; and to the end of life
ſhewed great attention to her drefs. To all her other ac-
compliſhments fhe added thoſe of religion, the duties of
which ſhe performed with an attention and zeal, highly
worthy of imitation. Religion appeared in her with a
fmiling countenance, guided her honourably through the
different ſtages of life, and miniftered to her joy in its
evening. Her fenfe of duty led her to induſtry; and her
religious principles and feelings beſtowed upon her con-
tentment, and cheerful truft in God. She lived like a
faint, and died like a Chriſtian heroine.
J
Population. The population of this parish, about 55
years ago, was placed at 1300; now it is 1890.
Of theſe there are, Males,
Females,
938
952
1890
The town contains, Males,
Females,
345
411
756
The Iſle of Whithorn, the only village, contains,
Males,
Females,
208
188
396
Carried forward,
1152
VOL. XVI.
00
290
Statiſtical Account
:
Brought forward,
The country part of the parish contains,
Males,
Females,
Total,
1152
379
359
738
1890
į
Poor.—There are 34 poor upon the lift, who are fup-
ported by collections at the church-doors, amounting to
about L. 32 per annum, and fuch gifts as the parishioners are
pleafed to beſtow upon them, when they afk alms at their
houſes. Upon thefe occafions they receive a part of every
thing in its ſeaſon.
Profeffions.-There is 1 clergyman, I writer, I attorney,
1 plaſterer, 1 faddler, 18 mafons and I apprentice, 16 join-
ers and 11 apprentices, 2 flaters, 25 weavers and 2 ap-
prentices, 22 fhoemakers and 2 apprentices, 16 tailors and
2 apprentices, 8 blackſmiths and I apprentice, I land waiter,
and I tidefman, 12 fhopkeepers, 2 coopers and I appren-
tice.
ų
Sectaries.-There are a few fectaries of the Cameronian
and Antiburgher defcriptions.
Emigration.-In the year 1774, a few people emigrated
to America. They left their native country, their rela-
tives, and abounding means of enjoyment, to fettle in
woods, among favages and wild beafts. Many of theſe de-
luded creatures were rich, and left very profitable leaſes, to
bemoan their folly in uncultivated deſerts.
Produce. This parish has grain enough for its inhabi-
tants, and alſo much for exportation. In 1782-3 it enjoyed
its uſual plenty.
Manures.
}
of Whitborn.
291
Manures.-In many places there are very large pits of
fine marl; and fea-fhell may be procured in any quantity
at a low price.
Advantages for Trade.-The advantages of this neigh-
bourhood for trade are obvious. Its grain, and herds of
black cattle; its flocks of fheep, with fine wool; its rivu-
lets, and water-carriage to the beſt markets, all point it out
as the feat of commerce.
Repeal of Coal-tax.-The goodnefs and wifdom of Go-
vernment have removed one great obftruction to the trade
of this country, by taking the duty off coals borne coaſt-
ways. For this, men of all ranks feel grateful to Parlia-
ment; and becauſe of it, Mr Dundas will be remembered
with applauſe for ages to come.
Salt Laws.-The falt-laws have a moſt unfriendly opera-
tion upon this parish and neighbourhood; and need only
to be read to be condemned by every wife and patriotic
ftateſman.
In Cheſhire there is a ftratum of rock falt, upwards of
50 feet in thickneſs, and ſalt ſprings, appearing every
where in that county, fhew it to be amply provided with
that valuable article. Were this treaſure open to all his
Majeſty's ſubjects equally, either without any tax, or upon
a moderate one, the greateſt advantages would arife to
trade in general, and in particular to the exportation of
falted provifions. But it is locked up from the community
at large by ſeveral ſtatutes, which feem to have proceeded
from partial views, and a fhort-fighted policy. Theſe ftatutes.
forbid the refining of rock falt into white falt in any but a
few places therein ſpecified. All England, excepting theſe
few places, and the whole of Scotland, are excluded from
the
292
Statiſtical Account
!
the benefit of ufing and refining rock falt, which may be
exported to foreign countries, and to Ireland. The 9th of
Queen Anne, c. 23. § 44. enacts, That for 32 years, every
ton of rock falt, put on board any fhip in Great Britain,
and exported to Ireland, ſhall pay 9s. This duty is made
perpetual by 3d Geo. I. c. 7. but is not exacted. No man
of enlarged views will grudge the Irish this advantage.
Let them enjoy it, only let us enjoy it along with them.
Rock falt refined, and made into white falt, is eight
times as ſtrong as that made in the frith of Forth; and at
Liverpool the former is fold, the beſt at 8 d. and ſmall at
5 d. per bufhel, exclufive of duties; while that made in
the frith of Forth is fold at I s. 3 d. Here is a temptation.
to fmuggling, which cannot be refifted; and this ruinous
contraband trade flourishes in the weft of England and
Scotland.
Were the duty on falt taken off, and Scotland put upon
the fame footing with Ireland, the great waſte of beef and
tallow, proceeding from driving our cattle to the Engliſh
markets, would be prevented. This wafte is greater than
is commonly thought of, in fo much, that the eighth part
of every bullock is ſuppoſed to be loft in his journey; and
to this may be added, a tenth part of his value expended
1 upon him, for driving and food on his way *. Much bet-
ter would it be for the country were he flaughtered at
home; but this cannot be done in the preſent ſtate of the
falt laws. Theſe laws do not only keep away from us
much good, but they expofe us every year to great evil.
Almoſt all our falt being fmuggled, there is a dependence
upon a precarious ſupply at the time of laying in our win-
ter's provifion; and I have known poor people in danger
* Accidents added, make this tenth an eighth, fo that one fourth is
really loft.
A
of
3
:
of Whithorn.
293
of lofing that provifion. I think I hear fome felf-conceited
perfon cry out, Why don't they ſend to a licenced cellar or
warehouſe, and get falt in a legal way? Why, I tell thee,
thou wifeacre, that in theſe places there is little other than
fmuggled falt. Wiſdom calls for a review of the ſalt laws;
and juſtice and impartiality require at leaſt their equaliza-
tion.
upon
Were the duty on falt taken off it, and laid Bri-
tifh fpirits, much good would arife from the commutation
to the public. It would tend to foberife the people, and
to lead them to the uſe of malt liquor. At preſent, there
is little malt liquor fold in this country.
The duty on Engliſh falt is 5 s. per bufhel, weighing
56lb.; but I never heard of 1 s. of duty being received, it
being all ſmuggled. Make the duty lower, and it will be
paid.
Harbour at Iſle of Whithorn, &c.—At Iſle of Whithorn
there is a good natural harbour, improved by a quay. It
is narrow at the entrance, but very fafe for veſſels when
in. Eight or nine fmall floops belong to this place, in
which about 30 mariners are employed. They bring coal
and lime from England; carry fea-fhells from the river
Cree, and take away the grain, potatoes, with ſome fat
cattle, ſheep, and ſwine to the different markets.
ſtationed one of his Majefty's revenue cutters.
Here is
per acre.
Farms. The average rent of land is 12 s. 6 d.
Farms are from L. 30 to L. 300 per annum, and houſes are
let at L. 14, and downwards.
Schools.-There are three ſchools, one of which is efta-
bliſhed by law; the mafter enjoys a falary of L. 9.
Inns,
294
Statiſtical Account
A
Inns, &c.-Here are 4 inns, and 12 ale, or rather whiſky
houſes. Such houſes are much too numerous in this coun-
try, and the morals of the people are greatly injured by
them. They retail a baſe ſpirit, fo low, as to price, that
fixpennyworth of it is enough to make any man mad.
!
Mills.-There are 5 corn mills in the parish, 4 of which
go by water, and one is driven by the wind.
Cottagers.-The effects of employing cottagers upon
farms are very friendly to population. Their children are
a ſtout and a healthy race.
Tanning, &c.—Tanning of leather has been carried on
for feveral years to a confiderable extent. The tanner ſees
our own cattle driven to England, and then ſets off for
Ireland to buy raw hides.-Several cotton manufactures
have commenced.
Stillatory.-Here alfo is a ftillatory, which pays to the
revenue L. 729 per annum, befides malt-duty.
State of the Country before the Union.-Before the Union
of the two kingdoms, this pariſh had nothing to trade with
but black cattle, and a fmall quantity of bear or big.
big. The
laſt of theſe laſt articles they fent to Man for brandy.
Agriculture was then fo little regarded, that landholders.
were often obliged to lend oxen, and horfes, and feed-corn
to their farmers.
Heritors.-The heritors of this parish are, the Right
Honourable the Earl of Galloway, &c. &c. &c. John
Hathorn, Efq; of Caftlewigg; James Murray, Efq; of
Broughton; Robert Hathorn Stewart, Efq; of Phiſgill;
2
Hugh
of Whitborn.
295
Hugh Stewart, Efq; of Tonderghie; the Honourable Ad-
miral Keith Stewart; the Honourable Sir Stair Agnew,
Baronet, of Lochnaw-caftle.
Crofters.-Befides the above, there are five fmall land-
holders, called crofters in this part of the country. There
has been a great change of property in this pariſh within
this century; as I am informed, there were 22 confider-
able landholders in the country part of the parish, befides
eight crofters in the town.
John Hathorn, Efq; of Caftlewigg, and Hugh Stewart,
Efq; of Tonderghie, are the reſiding heritors.
The ſmall proprietors are, Bailie Donar, Mr Macgoan,
Mr Anthony Macguffock, Mr John Sorry, Mr Charles
Broadfoot. All theſe live in the town excepting Mr Mac-
goan.
Labour and Provifions, &c.-Of late years the prices of
labour and of provifions have become very high. This
has been accompanied by a great change in the way of li-
ving among all ranks of people.
About 60 years ago, there were no clocks, watches, or
tea-kettles, but among people of fortune, or ſome of the
minifters. In farmers houfes there were no windows of
glafs. The light was admitted through openings on each
fide of the houſe, and that in the windward fide was filled
with ftraw in blowing weather.
Clothing.The modes of clothing and living were in
proportion, and confifted of the poorest fare and coarſeft
apparel: Now they live as well as any in Great Britain of
their rank. The men are clothed, fometimes with home-
fpun, but more commonly with Yorkshire narrows, cotton
velvets, and corderoys. The women appear in printed
linens, cottons and mullins. Here I fpeak of men and
women
296
Statiſtical Account
women of the loweſt ranks in life; fervants, cottagers, and
mechanics.
Clocks.-Almoſt every houfe has a feven-day clock; and
watches are near as common as breeches.
Progress fince the Union.-Before the Union of the two
kingdoms, the glorious era of Britain's peace and profpe-
rity, there was not a floop, fhip, or veffel of any kind to
go to fea in, in this neighbourhood; but now we ſee their
canvas ſpread all round the coaft, and importing from the
Weſt Indies, and the different countries in Europe, every
thing tending to ufe, to ornament, or luxury.
Wealth. The trade and improvements in agriculture
have introduced wealth among the people; real wealth,
proceeding from growing ſkill and increaſing induſtry.
This wealth has funk the value of money, in a proportion
almoſt incredible, as will appear from the following tables,
fhewing the ancient and prefent prices of provifions and
labour. By ancient, I mean no more than about 60
ago.
Ancient.
A cow for flaughter, weigh-
ing 25 ſtone Avoird.
L. I 80
Weathers, per ſcore, 4 10 o Ditto,
Fowls, per doz. о 4 • Ditto,
Prefent.
years
Ditto,
L. 6o
13
о о
о
8 0
Eggs, per doz.
Butter, per lb.
O I
I Ditto,
5 Ditto,
Labour.
O
O
3
9
A labourer, per day,
L.o o 4 Ditto,
L. O O IO
An houſe-ſervant,
per annum,
A tailor, per day,
I 10
oo 4
0
Ditto, from L. 6 to 10
o ọ
Ditto, from 8 d. to o
o fo
Every
of Whitborn.
297
Every thing elſe is in proportion with thoſe "entered in
the above tables. To theſe things the change in the way
of living is to be added. Tables are conducted in a diffe-
rent ſtyle; and ale has given place to punch, and punch to
wine.
When the particulars ftated are duly attended to, Mr
Keith's conclufion from fimilar premiffes appears reaſonable.
"Upon the whole matter," fays he, "this much feems to
"be certain, that for all domeftic ufes L. 100 at the time
we are now ſpeaking of," ann. 1563, was, at a mode-
"rate computation, as valuable in all points as L. 700 are
"now a-days."-N. B. Keith wrote, I think, before
the year 1740*,
66
66
the
Effects of the Decrease of the Value of Money upon
Minifters of Religion.-This great change in the value of
money has ruined many who were dependent on ſalaries
fixed 80 or an 100 years ago; and unleſs relief is given,
many more muſt ſuffer the fame hard fate. No fet of
men feel this change more than the minifters of this Na-
tional Church, who are generally paid, not in kind, but in
money. When their ſtipends were firſt appointed, L. oo,
according to a fafe calculation, was equal to L. 180 now.
The progreſs of fociety calls aloud, Confine not the mi-
nifters of religion to their ancient appointments. Why?
ſay the needy, the greedy, and the graceless, Is not a poor
church moft like to be a pure church? Thofe men who
have hackneyed this faying allow, when their intereft is
out of the way, that poverty is often as great an enemy to
virtue as wealth. We plead not for overgrown wealth.
We only humbly crave, that our income may rife as the
neceffary expence of living increaſes.
VOL. XVI.
P p
*See Keith's Hift. Appendix, lib. 3. p. 190.
That
298
Statistical Account
!
That the poverty of the minifters of religion is not only
injurious to them, but alſo to the peace and order of fo-
ciety, will be allowed by every perſon who thinks a Na-
tional Church of any ufe. He who is in eafy circumftan-
ces will be forward in acts of goodneſs, and fhew a pattern
of that charity which he recommends. He will diffuſe a
ſpirit of contentment. joy, and induſtry, every where about
him. In him the Church will find an enlightened friend,
and the State a prudent, firm champion. When he goes
about the facred duties of religion, he commands refpect by
the integrity and benevolence of his life, which gives
weight to all he fays. He, on the contrary, who lives on
L. 75 or L. 80 per annum in a pariſh where there are many
tithes, is in danger of becoming fullen and indifferent to a
Government where he fuffers fo much injuftice.
}
NUM-
of Bothwell.
299
:
NUMBER XVII.
PARISH OF BOTHWELL,
(COUNTY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND Ayr,
AND PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON.)
By the Rev. Mr MICHAEL MACCULLOCH, Minifter.
Name.
THE
HE origin of the name is uncertain. Both, in Cel-
tic, Syriac, Chaldee, and Saxon, fignifies a habita-
❝tion or dwelling." Huil, in Celtic, is "a flood or wa-
"ter;" and compounded with Both, Both-uil or Bothwell,
is "
a habitation befide or on the waters." This fenfe is
confirmed by Llhuid's Archæol. Brit. Bullet, Baxter, and
Verftigan *.
It
*Ed. Llhuid's Archæol. Brit. voce " to dwell," Bod is Welsh-Celtic for
"habitation.”—Buller's Memoires fur la Langue Celtique. tom. iii. p. 4.
Bod fignifies habitation."-Baxter's Gloffary. Bodo means “aquofus.”
Verftigan's Reftitution of decayed Intelligence, words ending in well
denote places befide water.
300
Statistical Account
It might mean the patron faint. Thus, pronounce
Bothval, gives "St Bothan's town," and from thence ex-
tended to the pariſh.
Bullet * renders Bothwell," a caſtle upon an eminence ;"
from Both, which he interprets "eminence," and wall, in
compofition well, "a caftle."
The first fenfe ſeems to fuit the fituation of the caſtle, the
town, and the parish: For the Clyde encircles a great part
of the caftlet, paffes near to the town or village; in a
flood, covers the low ground befide the hill on which it
ftands; while the two Calders almoſt ſurround the reft.
Situation and Extent.-Bothwell was a great, noble and
ancient barony, extending from Clyde to Weſt Lothian.
It is fituated in the nether ward of the county of Lanark,
in the prefbytery of Hamilton, and Synod of Glaſgow
and Ayr: bounded upon the S. by the Clyde, and part of
South Calder; on the W. and N. by North Calder
the E. by the Shotts. It is of an oval figure, extending
from W. to E. broadeft toward the middle, and contracted.
at both ends; about eight miles and a half in length, and
four at the greateſt breadth.
{
on -
The great road from Glaſgow to Edinburgh goes through
the whole length of the parish, and divides it nearly into
two equal halves; enters it at the weft point, by a bridge
over the Calder, about a quarter of a mile north from
where it joins the Clyde, and 5 miles from Glaſgow. Af
ter a very ſteep aſcent, which is foon to be levelled, it goes
along upon a flat of 4 or 5 miles, and then afcends confider-
ably towards the eaft, as it approaches the high lands of
the
*Tom. i. p. 395.
+ Bothal Caſtle, in Northumberland, is fituated upon the river Wentf
beck,
of Bothwell
30%
1
the Shotts. The ground to the fouth of the road gradual-
ly declines toward the river, which gives a fine proſpect of
the Clyde, Hamilton, and the adjacent country.
The great flat of the upper part of the pariſh is, at a
medium, 300 feet above the level of the fea; that toward
the Clyde is greatly lower.
The church and village of Bothwell is 36 miles from
Edinburgh, per ſection from the great road leading to the
village; 8 from Glaſgow; 27 from Stirling; 17 from La-
nark.
:
The diſtance from neighbouring pariſhes, (bearing and
distance from the church), are theſe Hamilton, fouth-
eaſt, ſeparated by the Clyde, 3 miles diftance. Blantyre,
upon the fouth, feparated alfo by the Clyde; diſtance, 3.
miles. North-weſt is Old Monkland, ſeparated by North
Calder; diftance, 3 miles. Upon the north, New or Eaft
Monkland, diſtance 8 miles, feparated by the North Calder.
Upon the north-eaft, the Shotts, diftance 8 miles. Cam-
bufnethan E. N. E. feparated by South Calder, diſtance 8
miles. Upon the eaſt, Dalziel, at 3 miles diſtance, ſepa-
rated by the South Calder.
Surface and Soil.-The parish rifes gradually from the
Clyde to the north, and ſtill more to the north-east. Upon
the banks of the river, fouth from the church, a large flat
fucceeds; at the termination of which, an aſcent takes place
toward the middle, or the line of the turnpike, where it,
reſts in another large level, extending almoft the whole
length of the parish, but rifing in fome places toward the
north, and very confiderably to the eaſt.
There can ſcarcely be faid to be either mofs, moor or
morafs in the parish. If there are fome ſpots of the two
laft, they are ſo ſmall as not to deferve confideration. In
general, all is arable.
The
302
Statistical Account
The foil is chiefly clay, of various mixture, loam, fand
and till, and fome of a lighter mould. It is good toward
the Clyde, where there is more warmth and fhelter; and
there is a great deal of excellent ground in the parish.
Placed in fo fine an expoſure to the fouth, occupying for
large a ſpace, and fo commanding a view of one of the
fineft countries in Scotland, the fituation is from thefe cir-
cumſtances very beautiful, and peculiarly adapted to the
purpotes of cultivation.
Air and Climate. The air is good, and the climate
healthful. A ridge of high hills, about ten miles north,
carry off the clouds and vapour, that may be raiſed from
the Atlantic, or otherwiſe. A long ſtretch of high ground
does the fame ſervice on the fouth; and the pariſh, on ac-
count of its feparate ftate, happily remains unaffected,
while the ſtorm is driving along both. The chief incon-
venience arifes from the clay foil tenaciously keeping up-
on the furface the rain that falls in winter. But the de-
clining poſition of the parish, the good roads and ditches,
ſerve as drains, and prevent any fenfible bad effects upon
the health of the people. Their houſes are placed upon a
dry fituation, and well covered. There is no difeafe pecu-
liar to the parish. When the ſmall-pox enter a village,
from their cloſe connexion and mode of frequent viſiting
each other in diftrefs, the infection becomes general, but
feldom fatal. The air at the eaſt end is fharper, the ground
confiderably higher, and the fnow lies longer.
Many arrive at old age; yet the employment of the huf-
bandman is not the most favourable for a very advanced
life. Engaged in inceffant toils, driven often from the ex-
tremity of heat to cold, expofed to all the inclemencies of
the elements; thefe wear out the beft conftitutions; and
extreme old age is to be aſcribed more to the uncommon
I
Strength
of Bothwell.
303
ftrength of stamina, than to fine air or climate, elſe the ef
fects of theſe would be more equally felt.
Wood and Planting.-The woods are chiefly befide the
proprietors feats, and upon the banks of the waters, where
there is a good deal of coppice, and feveral large planta-
tions. Some of fir, planted many years fince, had arrived
to a confiderable fize, and were lately fold to a good ac-
count; but enough is left, both for ornament and fhelter.
Many plots and ſtrips were made lately, and promiſe well.
One of the fineft places in the parish derives its name
from the extenfive woods and plantations about it.
The woody banks of the Clyde and Calders, are fre-
quented by the ufual tenants of the groves of Caledonia,
particularly the thruſh and blackbird. The village and
manſe, on account of the planting, are highly favoured
with the mufic of theſe two melodious birds, eſpecially the
laft.
Population.
Under 15 years of age,
From 15 to 70,
II 12
1535
Above 70,
Woodhall.
+ Local Divifions.
Woodhall, Lauchope, Sideridge,
Stevenſon, Cleland, Carfin, Tirviſton,
Orbifton, upper and lower,
Back of moor, Carnbroe,
Uddingston, and out farms,
Bothwell, out farms, and Bothwell Caſtle,
60
In all,
2707 +
Males,
779
495
526
195
287
425
2707
This divifion may gratify poſterity, as by it they will fee the increaſe
or decreaſe not only of the parish in general, but of theſe arrangements
and eftates in particular.
1
304
Statistical Account
"
Males,
1337
Females,
1370
2707
There are about four gentlemens feats at preſent unoc-
cupied; when they are fupplied with their reſpective fa-
milies and fervants, the number in whole may amount to
2800.
Trade and Manufactures.
4 Blackſmiths,
Bakers,
Shopkeepers,
14 Tailors,
Stocking-weavers,
21
Shoemakers,
Colliers,
50 Millers,
Maſons,
41 Coopers,
Weavers,
Joiners,
113 Innkeepers,
19
1
19
14
22
6
6
20
The weavers are chiefly fupplied with buſineſs from the
manufactures in Glaſgow.
There are fix corn mills, two lint mills, and one bleach-
field.
Four villages are in a thriving ſtate.
Ecclefiaftical State.-The Duke of Hamilton is patron.
The ſtipend received no alteration fince 1650 till 1781,
though the rental of the parish was much more than dou-
bled in that time. It is now 6 chalders and 1 boll of meal,
I chalder of bear, and L. 46, 18 s. in money.
I
The church was repaired about 16 years fince; the
manfe lately.
The glebe confiſts of above 4 acres arable; but is defi-
cient of the legal quantum for paſture.
The
of Bothwell.
305
The incumbent has expended confiderably upon the
manſe and garden, and has lately planted an orchard of a
choice collection of fruit-trees, which he hopes will yield.
a benefit to his fucceffors of L. 30 annually.
It is to be wished that fome general plan was adopted, to
put and keep manfes and glebes in proper order Intrants
often find all in ruins. Compofed of the moft fuperficial
materials, and given to the loweſt undertaker, they need
patching every 12 years; whereas, if manfes were made
good and fubftantial at firft, they might laft with little
charge for 80 or 100 years, and would be a great faving to
the landed intereſt.
A houſe of the Relief perfuafion was built in the year
1763. The congregation is fupplied from this, and five
neighbouring pariſhes.
The ſchool does not accord with the refpectability of
the parish, which has long fuffered for want of a fufficient
ſchoolmaster. It has checked the genius and improvements
of the people. Complaints were numerous. The falary*
is co merks Scots, or L. 5:1:177.
4 No addition was
aſked, but that the beſt uſe ſhould be made of it. When
a vacancy lately took place, the principal heritors required,
that an advertiſement fhould be publiſhed; a comparative
trial of candidates taken; and the beſt qualified preferred;
that fo the parish might be furniſhed with a man properly
accompliſhed for that important truft. But this moft equi-
table meaſure was defeated. A party of portioners, and
other heritors, elected one, to whofe qualifications ftrong
objections were offered. The caufe has undergone a tedi-
ous proceſs, and is yet depending.
VOL. XVI.
Qq
Poor.
* A ſmall fum, befides, is appropriated to a ſchool in a diftant part of
the pariſh.
306
Statistical Account
Poor. The poor are fupplied from an affeffment, fixed
by a meeting of heritors and church-feffion, who meet once
in the fix months, examine the poors roll, and appoint fuch
a fum to be levied for the enfuing half year, as the ſtate of
the poor requires. The landed property pay the one
half, and the houſeholders the other. As the parish is af-
feffed, the Sunday collections are fmall; and are applied
to keep the poor rates in moderation, to aid fuch as have a
fmall allowance, and to keep others off it, by giving them
incidental charity. At an average, there are about 25 up-
on the roll; and the furn alotted for the current year, is
L. 73: 188 Sterling.
By the mode of Sundays collections in Scotland, the
poor are in general ſupported by the poorer part of focie-
ty; but a legal affeffient fecures the contribution of all ranks.
in the pariſh, ſectariſts, and eſpecially the opulent proprie-
tors, whether refident or not. Its increaſe, however, ought
to be jealouſly watched, and as much as poffible prevented.
The following regulations may be of uſe.
To prevent any from fettling in the parifh, whofe cir-
cumſtances may foon, or immediately, need fupply; or
to have an obligation from the parishes whence they come,
that they ſhall ſupport them.-Not to raiſe the ſtent upon
every exigency, but to make a collection among the heri-
tors, or at the church, for that purpoſe.-Never to flacken
the hand of induftry, by giving too early, or too much;
for this would render it a nurſery of floth and idlenefs.
A little exerciſe cheers even the languor of age, and ſweet-
ens both the cup and the rest of the labouring man. The
real circumſtances of every poor perfon fhould be preciſe-
ly known, as repreſentations may be biaffed by favour or
influence; that when application is made, every proper ob-
ject may have the neceffary relief, and no part of the pu-
blic charity ſhall be mifapplied.-To admit no perſon upon
2
the
of Bothwell.
307
PARAGLANINI MANNER, SIOONA DINA LAY onun yang
the roll, unleſs an intimation thereof is lodged with the
church-feffion fix weeks before the meeting, that the feffion
may inquire into the ſtate of the cafe, and report the fame
to the meeting.
By fuch provifions as theſe, the much dreaded evil of
poor-rates in this country, may be prevented, and an ef
fectual ſupport for the poor fecured; vagrant begging fup-
preffed, and their children educated in knowledge and vir-
tue.
Rent and Incloſures.-The old valuation of the parish
is L. 7389: 16: of Scots.
4
In 1650, the rental of the pariſh was L. 1950: 18:57
Sterling. In 1782, L. 4431:7: 4 Sterling. But the real
annual value cannot be well afcertained, as a good deal of
the beſt is in the hands of proprietors and portioners. It
may amount to between L. 5000 and L. 6000 Sterling.
The croft acres round the two principal villages, are
eſtimated at L. 2 yearly. The outfield is from 10 s. to
L. I.
The land is not let by the acre, but at the flump of the
farm, and the accumulated value eſtimated.
The farms are generally ſmall, which is one great cauſe
of the increaſe of population. In this refpect, fmall farms
are public benefits; but large farms, held by wealthy far-
mers, tend more effectually to advance the value of the
ground.
They are commonly from L. 30 to L. 70. Seven about
L. 100, and one or two between L. 100 and L. 200.
The rent of farms has been confiderably increaſed with-
in theſe 20 years, fome more than doubled.
There are a great many incloſures in the parish, confift-
ing chiefly of thorns. Thefe around the gentlemens feats
are
308
Statistical Account
are generally in good order; but fuch as are in the hands
of tenants are imperfect.
The flope hedge, inſtead of being planted upon the top,
is very unfavourable; excludes fun, rain and dew, from
the root of the plant; and the breaches of youth continue
through age. The nurfing a young hedge requires a good
deal of attention; a farmer of fmall extent grudges the
charge. It would be for the intereſt of the proprietor to
make ſome allowance, or to divide the expence of rearing the
hedges for 7 or 8 years, till they are eſtabliſhed; the far-
iner being bound to maintain them during his leaſe.
Roads and Bridges.-The parish is well appointed in
roads. The great road from Glaſgow to Edinburgh, goes
through the whole length of the pariſh, as has been alṛea-
dy noticed. The road from Glaſgow to Carlifle enters the
parish on the weft, a little to the ſouth of the Edinburgh
road, by a bridge over the Calder very near to Clyde,
goes along the pleaſant banks of the river, paffeth through
the village at the church, and croffes the Clyde at Both-
well bridge. The mail coach goes the fame courfe twice
a-day.
There are feveral fections from the Edinburgh road,
croffing the parish in different places; three leading to Ha-
milton, one to Lanark, and two to Airdrie, in good order.
Beſides theſe, there are many crofs roads, made and repair-
ed by the ſtatute-work. It is converted at the rate of 15 s.
per plough-gate; the annual amount is L. 80: 8:9. The
turnpike and ftatute roads put together, amount to about
50 miles; 22 of which are good turnpike,-a proviſion
rarely to be found in one parish, but which muſt facilitate
the improvement, and enhance the value of the landed pro-
perty.
The
1
309
of Bothwell.
The principal bridges are, Bothwell bridge, over the
Clyde, of four arches, which is old, upon a narrow ſcale,
and is propoſed to be rebuilt upon a larger plan, which
will be a great improvement to this part of the country.
There are two bridges over North Calder, on the weft cor-
ner, where the Edinburgh and Carliſle roads enter the pa-
riſh, and other two over the fame water, on the roads to
Airdrie, Three are upon the South Calder; one of them
is upon the road to Lanark, lately built, and in good con-
dition.
Price of Labour and Provifions.-The price of labour
here, as in the neighbourhood of Glaſgow, has been within
theſe ſeven years confiderably advanced. A principal
ploughman, or man-fervant, is from L. 10 to L. 12, with
his board; a young man, next to him, who drives the
plough, and works with him, is from L. 5 to L. 8; a maid-
fervant in the houſe, from L. 3 to L.
4 or L.
5; a common
day labourer, formerly 10 d. or I s. is now I s. 4 d.; in
hay-time, I s. 8 d. or 2 s.; the women 8 d.; a houſe-car-
penter 1 s. 6 d. or 1 s. 8 d. ; a maſon 1 s. 8 d. and I s. 10 d.;
a tailor I s. with board.
The advance of wages is feverely felt by the ſmall far-
mer. But his acting the principal part himſelf, till his
children grow up to affift him, is a confiderable faving.
Hamilton being fo near is reforted to for butcher-meat.
Glaſgow regulates the price of grain. The produce of the
dairy is generally carried there; and poultry is often dear-
er here than at that town, being carried thither in hopes of
a higher price.
Agriculture. The principal buſineſs of the parish is
agriculture. It is purfued with great diligence, and ac-
cording to the refpective abilities of the farmer. It has
received
310
Statiſtical Account
received a confiderable improvement within theſe 20 years.
The outfield was frequently ploughed, but the crop not
worth the labour; now every pendicle is attended to, and
exhibits, when the feafon is favourable, tolerable good
culture. It is not long fince they difcovered the happy
effects of lime on the ftrong clay. It is now very gene-
rally uſed; and when judiciouſly applied, produces very
good crops. It is brought from the lime-works in burnt
fhells, and laid on at the proportion of from 50 to 100 bolls
per acre.
To do the field juftice, it will take 100 bolls to
each acre. The boll is 7 d. at the kiln, and conſiſts of the
wheat firlot, or Wincheſter bufhel. They have ſtrictly no
regular rotation. The ufual one is fummer-fallow, with
lime and dung; first year wheat; 2d peafe; 3d oats, fown
with graſs, cut one year or two, and paſtured as many; or,
inſtead of oats, the 3d year barley, prepared with frequent
ploughing and dung, and laid down with graſs-feeds, which
is a courſe more favourable to the ground.
As it is but a fmall part of the farm that a fufficient
quantity of dung can be procured to prepare for wheat,
other parts are limed on the paſture, two or three crops
taken, and laid down in grafs; a green crop generally fuc-
ceeding oats.
The introduction of wheat has been attended with one
good circumftance, the cultivating, or bringing in, as it
may well be termed, of that poor ejected alien, the outfield;
for the fummer fallow is frequently applied there, and
being furniſhed with lime and dung, a pretty good crop of
wheat is produced, with one of peafe, and another of oats.
By repeated applications of this nature to the outfield, it
has made very grateful returns, producing a crop of wheat
from 7 to 10 bolls an acre, with two more proportionably
fertile.
By
+
of Bothwell.
311
i
By this attention to the outfield, it is obſerved, that the
croft has failed for fome years of the great crops it uſed to
produce, owing to the farmer carrying all the dung and
manure he can procure to his wheat-land, as he chiefly de-
pends upon that crop for his rent.
Barley, for the fame reafon, is now lefs cultivated, as it
interferes with the manure of the wheat; and, on account
of the binding quality of the clay, it will not grow, unleſs
it be cheriſhed with refreſhing ſhowers foon after it is fown;
for this cauſe, it is judged a precarious crop.
Beans, mixed with peafe, uſed to be raiſed from the
croft ground in great abundance. But in bad harveſts, it
is extremely difficult to get them timely dried and flacked,
without which they are in a great meaſure loft. So that
wheat, oats, and hay, are likely to be cultivated as the
fureft crops.
Potatoes are planted by every farmer, but chiefly for
private ufe. Tradefmen depend much upon that valuable
root. The hard foil is not fo favourable as a tender and
quick foil for that crop.
The clay is equally unfriendly to flax; and no more of
it is fown than is neceffary for the uſe of each family.
They fow in March, or as foon as the ſeaſon will per-
mit, and the foil is fo dry as to admit them to go upon the
fields.
Their harveſt is earlier than fome of their neighbours;
eſpecially that part of the parish which lies toward Clyde.
After all the manure that can be applied, the goodneſs
of crops in this parish depends particularly upon the feafon.
From its declining attitude to the fouth, but eſpecially from
the ſtiffneſs of the clay, it needs frequent fhowers, firft in
the ſpring, to bring the grain equally through the hard
foil; and then a regular fucceffion of fhowers to diffolve
the clay, elſe it forms an impenetrable cement, excluding
all
312
Statistical Account
all dew and moiſture from the root of the plant. But when
the ground is in pretty good order, and is favoured with
frequent rains, it never fails to produce excellent crops.
This is fo remarkable, that the crop about the village of
Bothwell is looked to by the inhabitants of the mooriſh
part of the country as the index of the ſeaſon; and when
it is very luxuriant, they confider it as a certain fignal that
a greater quantity of rain has fallen, than fuits their fitua-
tion.
As a proof of what returns the beft foil will yield, theſe
are atteſted by credible authors, who both ſowed and reaped
the field. In fome places the crop has amounted to 15
bolls of oats per acre; one acre of the glebe produced, 30
years fince, 18 bolls of beans; and one in the holms yield-
ed above 20 bolls of wheat, or 80 Wincheſter bufhels.
They were doubtlefs in high cultivation.
The converfion at
It is purchaſed for
The grain is of a fuperior quality.
the mill is little ſhort of meal for oats.
feed by other parts of the country. The Scots plough,
upon a lighter plan, with three horſes, is generally uſed.
There is excellent butter and cheeſe made in the parish;
but the dairy is not carried to any great extent, owing to
the ſmall farms, and the little portion allotted for pafture,
they depending chiefly upon the arable crops for their
profits.
The number of milk-cows are in proportion to the fize
of the farm, and will be from 6 to 12, or 14. They rear
their black cattle and fome horfes, both of which are ge-
nerally of a good breed.
It is expected, that here, and in other parts of the coun-
try, a more favourable rotation will take place. Inftead
of that ruinous practice of conftant ploughing and fcourging
the foil, equally impoverishing the tenant and the farm,
more will be allowed to grafs, and lefs ploughed. The
exceffive
of Bothwell.
313
exceffive rate of labour and wages, and the advanced price
of hay and grafs, it is hoped will produce this moſt de-
firable improvement.
This parish poffeffes peculiar advantages for improve-
ments, in the ftrong fertile nature of its foil; in the happy
fituation of its farms and fields; in its vicinity to Glaſgow,
Hamilton and Airdrie; in the ftore of coal; in every
eftate being watered by the Calders, or the Clyde, and
adapted to the purpoſes of machineries and manufactures;
and in the high degree of cultivation it has already attained.
Upon theſe accounts, landed property here is of a fuperior
value; and when agriculture fhall be profecuted with
greater vigour, this pariſh muſt ſtill hold the very firſt place
in the county.-Vid. Means of Improvement.
Quarries and Minerals.-The parish abounds in free-
ftone. The quarries toward Clyde are of a red colour,
ſome of a ſmooth ſurface, and very durable. In the upper
part of the pariſh are ſeveral free quarries, of a beautiful
white; and the houſes of the new villages are all neat, and
well built.
There is an excellent going coal in Woodhall-lands.
The price at the pit is 2 s. 9 d. Sterling per ton. The
lands of Stevenſton, Olelano, and Jerviſton, have alſo coal.
The price was lately confiderably advanced, but is again.
fomewhat reduced. The chief confumption is in the pa-
riſh and neighbourhood.
Limeſtone is not found in the parish; it is brought from
Hamilton and Kilbride, at the diſtance of fix miles.
Language, Dress, Manners.-The language fpoken here
is Engliſh, with the Scotch dialect.
Like their neighbours, within thefe 20 years, they are
much improven in their drefs. The women wear a black
VOL. XVI.
Rr
filk
*
314
Statistical Account
filk cloak and hat; the men appear in Engliſh cloth and a
hat. Their appearance in public and at church is decent
and elegant; but this taſte for fhew and finery, is at once
the cauſe of their demand of high wages, and why ſo little
more of their earning is allowed to accumulate than for-
merly, when they had fcarcely more than the half of their
prefent allowance
In general, the farmers are an induftrious, fober, and
virtuous people; regular in their attendance upon public
worſhip; juſt, charitable, and humane; conftantly engaged
in the culture of their fields, they are happily removed
from the arts of circumvention to acquire wealth; or thoſe
of diffipation to obtain licentious pleaſure.
The first day of the new year is their only holiday,
which they ſpend in friendly vifits and mutual congratu-
lations. Curling is their chief amufement in winter.
Their weddings are celebrated with a decent cheerfulneſs.
After partaking of a plentiful entertainment, the evening
is fpent in feftive mirth and the ſocial dance.
Rivers. The only river is the Clyde, which waters the
pariſh along the fouth fide, in a gentle declivity, with beau-
tiful windings, and here and there fhallows, for the ſpace of
three or four miles. It is ftored with trout and falmon,
which are taken with the rod or net. At the end of har-
veft, and fometimes in winter, it overflows the holms or
low grounds; but the experience they have had warns
them timely to remove the crop out of danger.
The water of North Calder rifes from the Black Loch
in the parish of Eaft Monkland, and continues its courſe
weftward for about 15 miles, till it falls into Clyde, at the
bridge above mentioned; and for 7 or 8 miles feparates
the pariſh from the East and Weft Monklands.
The
1
of Bothwell.
315
The water of South Calder rifes from feveral marshes
and fens in the parishes of Shotts and Cambufnethan, and
having continued its courfe for 15 miles, falls into the
Clyde a little below Orbiefton.
They are generally fhallow in fummer; but in winter
and rainy ſeaſons, they pour a great quantity of water into
Clyde.
The ſtream of the North Calder is confiderably leffened
by the water being taken into the Monkland Canal at
Woodhall.
Theſe two waters are chiefly diſtinguiſhed for the roman-
tic ſcenery of their banks; upon which account, all the
gentlemen who live in that part of the country, have pla-
ced their feats upon the banks of the one or other of theſe
two Calders.
There are no lakes in the pariſh.
Eminent Men.-Notwithſtanding the adverfe plan of
education in the pariſh, the following may be named under
this clafs, who owed their rife to more favourable femi-
naries :
Two fons of the Rev. Mr William Hamilton, Meffrs
Robert and Thomas fucceeded each other as Profeffors of
Anatomy in the College of Glafgow.
The laft was fucceeded by his only fon, Mr William
Hamilton; a young gentleman, who, by his diftinguiſhed
abilities, and indefatigable application, foon acquired a very
high degree of fame in his profeffion. He died in early
life; his lofs was deeply felt, and univerfally regretted. His
feeling heart, and gentleness of manners; his endearing
fympathy with the diftreffed, almoft foothing away pain;
his rare and amiable virtues, will long live in the memory
of his friends, and in a very extenfive circle of fociety.
In
316
Statiſtical Account
In this liſt muſt be included the late Daniel Campbell,
Efq; of Shawfield, brother to the preſent proprietor.
He was one of the moſt accompliſhed gentlemen his
country has produced. Nature was liberal to him of her
choiceft gifts: Taſte and elegance feemed natural to him:
He poffeffed the graces in perfection: The fine arts were
his favourite amufements. He fat in two Parliaments, and
gave fuch proofs as declared him qualified to have made an
eminent figure in the British Senate. Above all, the in-
effable ſweetneſs, the flowing fenfibilities of his heart, en-
hanced every accomplishment, gave a charming luftre to
the whole man, and rendered him at once admired and be-
loved by all who knew him.
To thefe may well be added Mr William Aiton, author
of Hortus Kewenfis, 3 vols. He was a native of this parish,
educated under the friendly fhade of the laft gentleman's
family. He went to England in 1754. In 1759 he was
pointed out to the Princeſs Dowager of Wales and his pre-
fent Majefty, as a man beft qualified to form a botanical
garden at Kew. Under their encouragement, he ftudied
and laboured for 34 years, collecting from every corner of
Britain, and the remoteft climes, every rare and valuable
production of the vegetable creation.
How far he fucceeded in a taſk ſo arduous and laudable,
the prefent highly finiſhed ftate of that place, the unani-
mous approbation of the beft judges of the botanical ſcience,
and the accurate defcription given by himſelf, are, and it
is hoped fhall continue to be the moſt ample teftimonies
for ages.
In him the gentleman and the Chriftian were happily
united. By his patronage, multitudes with their families.
are now comfortably fettled in the world. Placed in the
higheſt ſphere of his employment, he acquired the appro-
bation of all ranks. He was honoured with very particu-
lar
of Bothwell.
317
lar marks of the bounty and favour of our moſt amiable
Sovereign. His name and fame extended to every quarter
of the globe; proved paffports to diftant kingdoms; and
his recommendations were fufficient introductions to men
of ſcience in foreign Courts.
He might be called the Scotch Linnæus, from whom the
younger Linnæus received no fmall improvement. What
an honour to his country, and what praiſe is due to fuch e-
minent virtue! He died at Kew, Feb. 19. 1793. His fon
fucceeded to his charge *.
Antiquities. The caftle of Bothwell is a very ancient
and noble ſtructure. In its decayed ftate it exhibits fome
ftriking remains of its former fplendor, and is, perhaps, the
moft magnificent ruin in Scotland. The work is all done.
with poliſhed ſtone, of a red colour; the apartments very
lofty. What of it remains occupies a ſpace in length 234
feet, and in breadth 99 feet over the walls. The lodgings
are confined to the eaſt and weſt ends, and many of them
fufficiently diftinguiſhed. The chapel is marked with a
number of ſmall windows, and like a chamber of ſtate off
it, with two large windows to the fouth. The old well in
the corner of one of the towers, penetrating through the
rock
* Funeral Sermon by Smith, Camberwell. Monthly Review of faid
Sermon, May 1793. We who knew the man have good reafon to be-
"lieve, that the teftimony here borne to his worth, his genuine piety,
his exemplary morality, and his extenſive benevolence, is no more
"than his juft due. Real merit is fometimes exaggerated in funeral pa-
"negyrics; but this is not the cafe in the prefent inſtance.”
made a confpicuous
The Caftle of Bothwell and the Provoſtry once
figure in the pariſh, and in the hiſtory of Scotland. The firſt is ſtill vi-
fired by the curious, and admired in its ruins. As there is nothing pu-
bined refpecting them, thefe few hints have been procured with fome
pains.
318
Statiſtical Account
F
rock to a good ſpring, was diſcovered a few years fince.
The ſtair of one of the higheſt towers is almoft entire to
the top, which preſents an immenſe height above the river.
The court in the middle was probably defigned to contain
their cattle and provifions in cafe of an affault, an arrange-
ment peculiar to many ancient caftles. The entry is on
the north, about the middle of the wall. Veftiges of the
foffe are yet vifible. It appears to have been built and
enlarged at different times, and by the feveral proprietors
who occupied it.
The following is a conciſe ſtatement of the various lords
or maſters it had received in the viciffitudes of fortune:
"It was anciently poffeffed by the Murrays *. But in
the time of King Edward I. it was given to Aymer de
Valance + Earl of Pembroke, Governor for him of the
fouth part of Scotland. Upon his forfeiture, it was given
by King Robert Bruce to Andrew Murray, Lord Both well,
who married Chriftian, fifter to that King. With his
grand-daughter it came to Archibald the Grim, Earl of
Douglas, by marriage, and continued in their family till
their forfeiture by King James II. 1455. After the for-
*M. S. Mr Hamilton of Wishaw, Advocates Library.
feiture
He ac-
† 1307. Earl Pembroke having the command of the English army,
challenged Bruce to fight him at the bottom of Loudon Hill
cepted, and defeated him. The Earl retreated to Bothwell Cafle.
GUTH.
1336. Edward III. publiſhed writs, dated from the Cafile of Bothwell,
ordering his Parliament to affemble, and concert the proper means of de-
fending his kingdom againſt the Scots, and commanding his admirals to
oppofe the French fleet; putting them in mind that his progenitors were
always maſters at fea. Theſe papers, written at Bothwell, are copied in
Rymer's Fod. vol. 4 p. 722
1337. 6th March. Scots beſiege Bothwell Castle, took it by ſtorm from
the Engliſh, and level it to the ground. GOTH.
of Bothwell.
319
1
feiture of the family of Douglas, the bulk of the lordſhip
of Bothwell was given to Lord Crighton, fon to Chancel-
lor Crighton; and Bothwell foreft, or Bothwell moor, was
given to Lord Hamilton, in exchange of the lands of Kingſ-
well.
Crighton was forfeited in 1485, for joining with Alex-
ander Duke of Albany against King James III. It was
then given by King James III. to the Lord Monipenny,
from whom it was foon retaken, as having been given by
the King in his minority; and was thereafter given by him
to John Ramfay his favourite, who enjoyed it till the
1488, when he was forfeited for counterfeiting a commif-
fion under the great feal to the Earl of Northumberland;
then the lordship of Crighton was gifted by King James IV.
to Adam Hepburn Lord Hailles, whom he created Earl
of Bothwell. It continued in his line till November 1567,
when James Earl of Bothwell was forfeited for the murder
of Henry, father to King James VI. Thereafter it was
given by that King to Francis Stewart, ſon of John Abbot
of Kelfo, who was natural fon to King James V.; and he
being forfeited for crimes committed against James VI.
his eſtate was gifted to the Lairds of Buccleugh and Rox-
burgh, from whom the Marquis of Hamilton acquired all
the fuperiority and patronage of that lordſhip.
The property, which was lefs than the 3d of the lord-
fhip, with the Caſtle of Bothwell, having been difponed by
Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, to the Earl of Angus, in ex-
change of the lordship of Liddifdale.
The faid William Earl of Angus, and Archibald his
fon, in 1630, or thereby, did feu the 3d part of the lord-
ſhip to the particular tenants and poffeffors thereof, with-
out diminution of the old rent, and referving the Caftle
and Mains of Bothwell. It was given off as a patrimonial
portion with the Earl of Forfar, but is again returned to
the
320
Statistical Account
the family of Douglas by the death of Archibald Earl of
Forfar, who died at Stirling of his wounds received at
Sherrifmuir, in the year 1715."
The above account is confirmed by this circumſtance,
that the different parts of the edifice retained each the
name of the builder; fuch as Valence tower, Douglas tower *
Hamilton tower, and the Cuming tower; and fome are ſtill
known by them. The Douglas family had exceedingly
enlarged and improved it; their arms were found in dif-
ferent places of the wall. It is impoffible to form a juft
idea of its former greatneſs, as it is faid that a great deal of
it was taken down by the Earl of Forfar, out of which he
built a modern houſe.
There is this peculiar to that fuperb ſtructure, that all
the neighbouring objects are in a great ftyle. The Clyde
makes a fine circle round the Caſtle; the breadth of the
river is confiderable; the ftreams fpread over a plain roc-
ky bottom; the banks, on both fides, are very high, and
adorned with natural wood. The Craig of Blantyre, with
the ruins of the old houſe of the Priors upon the top of it,
immediately oppofite, has a ftriking effect; while this no-
ble monument of ancient grandeur extends along the fum-
mit of the north bank, with a bold aſpect to the fouth, at
both ends rears its lofty towers, and dignifies the whole
fcene t.
Bothwell
* James, Lord Hamilton, married Eupham Graham, daughter of the
Earl of Strathern, and ſecond wife and widow of Archibald the 5th Earl
of Douglas; and, in her right, was in poſſeſſion of a confiderable part of
the lordſhip and barony of Bothwell. Crawford.
See Buildings. Bothwell Houfe.
2
of Bothwell.
321
Bothwell Church.-Bothwell church, or quire, is an old
ftructure, in the Gothic style, of excellent workmanſhip,
70 feet in length over the walls, and 39 in breadth. It is
ftill entire, and uſed for public worship; only the portico,
at the weſt end, was taken down 1719, to admit of a mo-
dern addition, to accommodate the congregation. The roof
is arched and lofty, and from within makes a very fine ap-
pearance. It is lighted with a tire of large windows on
each fide, and a great window in the east end; in the up-
per part of which the Douglas arms are cut, and at the
fouth corner of the window, within and without, quartered
in ſtone with the Royal arms, probably pointing to the
Earl of Douglas's marriage with King Robert's grand-
daughter. The Hamilton arms are engraved in the centre.
of the arch, which fupports what is called the organ loft.
The arched roof is covered with large poliſhed flags of
ftone, fomewhat in the form of pan-tiles. The whole edi-
fice is compofed of ftone, ftrengthened by pilafters, to fup-
port the weight of the roof. There are no ornaments or
inſcriptions; but near the outer baſe of the ſpire, the name
of the mafter-mafon is written in Saxon characters,
Magifter Thomas Tron.
A cell is placed upon the back wall, which enters from
within, where the font baſon, of ſtone, built in the wall,
and the ſtone pitcher, ſtanding in the middle of the paved
vault, are yet complete.
In the two eaſt corners of the church, are two fepulchral
monuments of the Earl of Forfar and fon.
Provoftry, or Collegiate Church of Bothwell.-The col-
legiate church of Bothwell * was founded 10th of October
VOL. XVI.
Sf
It was before a cloister of nuns. Spotfwood's Appendix.
1398,
&
322
Statistical Account
1398, by Archibald the grim Earl of Douglas, for a Pro-
voſt and eight prebendaries; to which he grants the lands
or Ofberington, or Orbifton, in his barony of Bothwell,
and the lands of Netherurd, and mill thereof, in the fheriff-
dom of Peebles, in perpetuam eleemofinam.
The endowment of the church was very great; for be-
fides theſe lands, there was given them a right to all the
tithes of Bothwell and Bartrom, Shotts, Avendale, and
Stonehouſe parishes, and feveral fuperiorities. Moft of
thefe fuperiorities, with part of the property, and whole
tithes, belong now to the Duke of Hamilton, who is both
patron and titular.
The Noble founder died in the 1400; and, as tradition
has it, is buried with his Lady, under a large marble ſtone
in the eaſt end of the faid quire. In the year 1400, Da-
vid Prince of Scotland was married to Marjory Douglas,
daughter to Archibald, the grim Earl of Douglas, in the
church of Bothwell.
The prebendaries had each a houſe and yard, round the
church. The houſes are demolished, but the yards retain
the names of Vicar yard, Prebend yards. The Provoſt of
Bothwell had a vicar at St Catherine's Chapel, for ferving
the upper part of the parith, now called the Shotts. But
after the Reformation, it was divided into two parishes.
Provofts and Minifters of Bothwell.-The firft Provoſt
was Thomas Varoye or Barry. He was born in the reign
of King David II and probably died toward the beginning
of the reign of Robert III. He wrote a poem on the
battle of Otterburn, fought 5th of Auguft 1388.
The next Provoft was William Foulis, defigned, Cuftos
privati figilli, et Præpofitus de Bothwell, by King James I.
23d year of his reign.-His fucceffor was William Pont.
He was keeper of the privy feal, and is a witneſs with
John
of Bothwell.
323
John Bishop of Glaſgow, and others, to a charter of King
James I. at Edinburgh 24th May, 24th year of King James's
reign. He was fucceeded by Dr John Ralfton, a younger
fon of the family of Ralfton in Renfrewshire, in the reign
of King James I. From being parfon of Cambuſlang, he
was promoted to the provoftſhip of Bothwell, both being
in the gift of Archibald Earl of Douglas; fo defigned in a
charter October 24. 1426. Was afterwards Dean of Dun-
keld; Secretary to King James II.; Bishop of Dunkeld, in
1448; Lord High Treaſurer in 1449; died in 1452.-Ga-
vin Hamilton occurs next, a fon of the firft Lord Hamil-
He accompanied his father to Rome, where he went
to get his foundation of the collegiate church of Hamilton
ratified by the Pope's bull. He took orders when advan-
ced in life, became Provoft of the collegiate church of
Bothwell, of the Earl of Douglas's patronage, and is in
that office 1450.
ton.
George Hepburn, a fon of Adam fecond Lord Hailes,
was made Provoſt of the collegiate church of Bothwell
1493. He was afterwards Lord High Treaſurer of Scot-
land, Biſhop of the Ifles, and flain, with King James IV. at
the battle of Flowden, 1513.
James Bethune was Provoſt of Bothwell 1503, after-
wards Archbishop of St Andrew's.
Alexander Hepburn was Provoft of Bothwell 1527, ob-
tained a charter of the lands of Kettleſtown, in the parish
and county of Linlithgow, under that defignation.
Minifters fince the Reformation 1560.
Mr John Hamilton, minifter of Bothwell 1574; his ftipend
the haill provoftry of Bothwell, lately difponed
*
Mr
* Regiſter of affignations of the minister's ftipend, M. S. Advocates
Library.
324
Statistical-Account
Mr Gavin Hamilton, miniſter, 1604.
Mr Robert Boyd, minifter, 1618 and 1635.
Mr Matthew Mackell, minifter, 1650, outed at the Reſtora
tion of Charles II.
Epifcopal Minifters after the Restoration.
Mr John Carftairs, 1660.
$
Dr Robert Douglas, afterwards Bishop of Dumblane, de
prived at the Revolution.
Mr Alexander Kinneir, 1681.
Mr Thomas Hamilton.
Mr Robert Douglas, fon to the former, and minifter here
at the Revolution.
After the Revolution.
Mr John Orr, tranflated to Edinburgh.
Mr William Hamilton, ordained 1709.
Mr James Hamilton, his fon, ordained 1746.
Dr James Baillie, 1762; afterwards Profeffor of Divinity,
Glaſgow.
The incumbent.
The
Battle of Bothwell Bridge.-The fouth fide of this bridge
was the ſcene of an engagement in the reign of Charles II
1679, between the whigs or covenanters, and the King's
army, commanded by the Duke of Monmouth.
King's army advanced by the north, or Bothwell fide. The
covenanters, divided among themſelves, were foon thrown
into confufion; 400 were killed, chiefly in the purſuit, and
1200 taken prifoners. It is faid that they did not expect to
fight, being miſinformed that the Duke was ordered to ob-
ferve pacific meaſures. It is told by the hiftorians of thoſe
times.
Bothwell
J
of Bothwell.
3.35
Bothwell Haugh-lies about a mile above the bridge,
was formerly the property of James Hamilton of Both-
well-haugh, who (23d January 1570) fhot the Earl of
Murray, regent, at Linlithgow. He efcaped to Hamil
ton, and from thence to France *.
About a quarter of a mile east from this, there is a
bridge over the South Calder, judged to be of Roman con-
ſtruction; of one arch, high, very narrow, and without led-
ges. The Roman road called Watling-ftreet, one of the
four famous ways that the Romans anciently made in
Britain, was a few years ago in entire prefervation, leading
to it from the eaft, through Dalziel parith; but it is now
ſcarce difcernible, being removed by the courſe of the
plough.
A mile above this, upon the banks of the fame wates,
there is a quarry of the fineſt millstones in the weſt of
Scotland. They are fent for from Carron, and other di-
ftant parts of the country.
Three miles higher, upon the north bank of the Calder,
in the middle of the fteep rock upon which the houſe of
Cleland ftands, is a large natural cove, which had been
partly improven by art, capable of holding 40 or 50 men,
of difficult accefs. The entry was fecured by a door and
an iron gate, fixed in the folid rock; the fire-place, and
part of the chimney and floor, ftill remain. The tradition
is, that it had been uſed as a place of concealment in the
troubleſome
* De Thou writes, that he was folicited to affaffinate the great Admi-
ral Coligini, but refufcd.
+ Ikenild Street, Fofs, Ermin Street, and IVatling Street; fo called
from one Vitellianus, fuppofed to have fuperintended the direction of it ;
he Britons calling Vitellianus, in their language, Guetalin.
Camb. Brit.
326
Statiſtical Account
troubleſome times of the country, as far back as the gallant
patriot Sir William Wallace; perhaps by the hero him-
felf, and his trufty band: Alfo during the violent feuds be-
tween the houſe of Cleland and Lauchope; and eſpecially
in the convulfions of this country under the Charles's.
It is an inftructive monument of the happy difference
between the ſtate of our anceſtors and our preſent ſituation,
where tranquillity and fecurity are infcribed upon all our
habitations, from the princely dome to the humbleſt cot-
tage.
About 70 years ago, a little after the acceffion of the
preſent Royal Family, when their mild and gentle fpirit
began to be univerfally felt, the iron gate was taken down,
the hinges torn from the rock, and, it is hoped, will never
need to be repaired again.
Paffing to the North Calder, the next object which at-
tracts notice is the houfe of Lauchope. It was the feat of a
very ancient family, the mother-family and chief of the
Muirheads. It is an old tower-houfe, the walls of a prodi-
gious thickneſs; part of it fell lately, and part is ftill in-
habited. It has gone through feveral hands.
Chapel,-north-eaſt from Lauchope, was formerly a reli-
gious houfe, of what order is not known.
Temple Lands.-The lands of Greenfide and Shirrel, were
of this deſcription.
Seats,
Buildings.
The principal are,——
The houſe of Bothwell, lately built, and the refidence of
Lord Douglas. It is a handfome edifice, ſtands a little eaſt
from
of Bothwell.
327
from the old caſtle, and at once commands the charming
group of beauties, arifing from the banks, the river, the
ruins, and the adjacent country. The apartments, like the
great objects that furround them, are marked with a dig-
nified fimplicity. The banks are broad and extenſive;
exhibit a very pictureſque ſcene; have been much impro-
ved of late, with pleaſure walks, huts and fhrubbery. The
walk from the houſe, along the fummit of the bank, and
round the ruins, is moft delightful. Nature is truly Great;
her ſteps are carefully followed, and a good taſte diſcover-
ed. A grove of oaks occupies one part of the banks, al-
ready confiderably advanced, and will make a venerable
figure in future times. The park is incloſed with a re-
markably good wall. There are few places more favour-
ed from fituation, or capable of greater embellishment.
The first who had the merit to diſcern the beauties of
theſe banks, even in their rude ftate, covered with natural
wood, and to plan and commence improvements, was the
late Lady Lucy Douglas *.
With the fineſt moral feelings of the heart, fhe poffeffed
a well-cultivated mind, and a correct taſte. By arranging
thefe natural beauties, with the aid of her huſband, fhe
produced a paradife. Here ſhe ſpent her leiſure hours,
forgot the world, converfed with Nature, and its great
Author; and participated in thofe pleafures which were.
pure, ferene, and congenial to her own mind.
66
Qui fait aimer les Champs, fait aimer la Vertu.”
DELILLE.
Woodball,
* First Lady of Lord Douglas, and fifter to the prefent Duke of Mont-
rofe.
328
Statistical Account
:
Woodhall, the feat of Walter Campbell, Efq; of Shaw-
field. It is fituated on the banks of the water of North
Calder, about five miles north-eaft from the church. The
houfe is large, with fome noble apartments, and a good
library. The incloſures and plantations are numerous and
extenfive. Two avenues from the great road to Edin-
burgh, from the eaft and weft, each about a mile and a
half in length, paffing through belvideres and funk fences,
form a fine approach. It has lately received a complete
melioration from the prefent proprietor. A beautiful
piece of water has been formed, upon the banks of which
modern gardens, peach-houfe, vineries, and orangery, are
built to a great extent. Pleaſure-walks are made along the
banks of the Calder, and both fides ornamented with plant-
ing. The Monkland canal adds to the fcenery, and will
advance the value of the coal in the eftate. The fields have
been laid down in great order; plantations thinned; fine
viftas opened; and a more elegant and cheerful afpect
given to the whole. Few places in the weſt of Scotland
are upon a more liberal ſcale; few gentlemen underſtand
the improvements and interefts of their country better
than the proprietor, or have done more than he upon his
feveral feats.
"
Mifcellaneous Remarks.-Beauty of Clydesdale, or Fine
Profpects.-There are many of theſe in the pariſh. One
3s, the view from the weſt point of the village of Udding-
fton, down the river. It terminates upon Daldowie, where
nature, aided by an excellent tafle, has formed one of the
moſt beautiful places upon Clyde.
But there is another profpect which merits particular
notice. It is the eaſt brow of the hill, upon which the vil
lage of Bothwell ftands. This feems to be the great pro-
montory which nature has erected to contemplate the beau-
¿
I
ties
of Bothwell.
329
ties of the Vale of Clyde. There are none in the central line
of the river above this; and after it quits this pariſh, it lofes
its noble woody banks, and generally falls into a flatneſs
on both fides.
This eminence commands the moft rich and pleaſant
proſpect of an inland kind in Scotland. It would require
the pen of a Thomſon to do it juſtice.
On the right hand, and fouth fide of the river, the refi-
dence of the Duke of Hamilton, called the Palace, Chatel-
herault, and the town, appear juft under the eye, amidſt
extenfive pleaſure grounds, which may vie with many of
the fineſt places in England. A little above this, the vale
is contracted, the banks are wide and deep, with a gradual
declivity on both fides, which are occupied by gentlemens.
feats, highly cultivated and embellished. Woods and plan-
tations ftretch along the banks. Numerous orchards are
interſperſed through the groves. Theſe, in the ſpring, give
a great part of the vale an Italian afpect, or rather,
"The bloom of blowing Eden fair."
In autumn they are richly loaded with fruits, and may be
called the Garden of Scotland. Beautiful meadows cover-
ed with flocks, and rich fields of corn, adorn the holms and
plains. Nature difpenfes her pleafures with a liberal hand.
Hill and dale, wood and water, are finely blended together.
So great a collection of rural charms, variety of ſcenery,
exquifite arrangement, and vaft extent, render the whole
moſt enchanting. The river, with its purling ftreams and
meanders, diffuſes fertility and beauty through all the vale,
while villa fucceeds villa, with their reſpective improve-
ments, as far as the eye can reach, till the proſpect, or
ſtretch of 24 miles, terminates upon Tintoc. Twice every
day the ſcene is highly adorned; in the morning, when
the fun aſcends above the noble mountain of Tintoc, and
j
VOL. XVI.
Tt
gilde
330
Statistical Account
gilds the whole vale, and when he revifits it from the op-
pofite point in the evening.
It is a proof of a moſt gracious Providence, that the no-
bleſt pleaſures are laid open to all. It is ufual for the vil-
lager, in fummer, on his great day of reft, Sunday, morning
or evening, to walk out with his Bible, and repoſe himſelf
on this great ſofa of nature.
With luxuriant crops at his feet, under the covert of or-
chards behind, and this tranſporting entertainment before
him, he forgets his weekly toils, reads the beatitudes,
claims an intereſt in the very firſt;
"And feels an inward blifs
Spring o'er his mind, beyond the power of Kings
"To purchaſe.'
The beauties of Bothwell banks were celebrated in an-
cient fong, of which the following incident is a ſtriking
proof:
"So fell it out of late years*, that an Engliſh gentle-
man, travelling in Paleſtine, not far from Jerufalem, as he
paffed through a country town, he heard by chance a wo-
man fitting at the door, dandling her child, to fing,
"Bothwell Bank, thou bloomest fair."
"The gentleman hereat exceedingly wondered, and forth.
with in Engliſh faluted the woman, who joyfully anſwered
him, and faid, She was right glad there to fee a gentlemen
of our iſle; and told him, that he was a Scotch woman,
and came firſt from Scotland to Venice, and from Venice
thither; where her fortune was to be the wife of an offi-
cer under the Turk, who being at that inftant abfent, and
very
* Verftigan, in his Reftitution of Decayed Intelligence, Antwerp,
1605. chap, of the Sirnames of our Ancient Families.
of Bothwell.
331
:
:
very foon to return, ſhe intreated the gentleman to ſtay
there until his return; the which he did; and fhe, for
country fake, to fhew herſelf more kind and bountiful unto
him, told her huſband at his home-coming, that the gentle-
man was her kinfman; whereupon her huſband entertained
him very kindly, and at his departure gave him divers
things of good value.”
In confirmation of this account of the view, a good part
of theſe banks is now occupied by two gentlemens feats,
Sweethope and Bothwell Park. They are both elegant,
fet down on account of the proſpect, and both enjoy it in
perfection.
A new line of road is formed from Hamilton to Lanark,
along the fouth banks of the Clyde, and through the whole
length of the vale; it is juſt finiſhed, and makes one of the
moft pleaſant rides in Scotland.
Means of Improvement.-One principal object is the
communication of a greater meaſure of uſeful knowledge
to the great body of the community. Parochial ſchools in
general are not ſupplied with fuch able teachers as they
were 50 years ago, owing probably to this, that they who
have got a good education, find a more generous encourage-
ment from the manufacturing or commercial departments,
which formerly were upon a fmall ſcale in this country.
Parochial and public fchools fhould be eſpecially directed,
1st, To the inftilling of virtuous principles; teaching the
youth an abridgment of the Chriftian religion; its incon-
teftible evidence; its incomparable excellence, as fecuring
the quiet, order, and dignity both of the individual and the
community.
The great defign of education is, to form the mind to
the love and practice of virtue. How mournful is it to ob-
ferve, that this important object ſeems forgotten, if not
I
expelled
332
Statiſtical Account
expelled from the modern plan of education. A fyftem of
religion and virtue, or any book relating to the Scriptures,
is not taught in the higher or lower feminaries of learning;
a few queſtions of a Catechifm are got by rote, after the al-
phabet, and feldom repeated, as if it were an infult to an
advanced understanding. This may juftly be conſidered as
the great cauſe of the immorality of the age. When a youth-
is fent abroad into the world, without a rational perfuafion
of the importance of religion; of his obligations to virtue
deſtitute of one argument to defend himſelf againſt the at-
tacks of its adverfaries, what can be expected, but that he
will fall an eaſy prey to the allurements of vice. Hence,
in high life, infidelity and impiety; in lower ranks, mif-
taken views of religion, bigotry and fuperftition, inſtead of
the weightier matters of the law.
S
What a reproach to this age, with all its boaſted im
provements in arts, in philofophy, and under the laſt dif
penfation of Heaven, to be outdone by ancient heathens in
their plan of education. They taught their youth deeds,
and not words they enforced juftice, generofity, magnani-
mity, all the virtues. Hence the illuftrious characters they
reared in all ſtations and capacities, hitherto, alas! unequal
led in any fucceeding age.
Quid mufæ fine moribus vanæ proficiant?
If ever a reformation takes place, it must be by a virtu-
ous education of youth. Laws may fecure external order,
but can never amend the heart *.
Since writing the above, the laft General Affembly
(1794) have enjoined, that a more particular attention
fhall be paid in parochial ſchools to teaching the youth the
principles
* See Dr Hardy's excellent Sermon at the opening of the General.
Affembly 1794.
of Bothwell.
333
principles of religion. But the evil is of great magnitude,
and requires an adequate remedy.
When the virtuous Pilot has brought the veffel of State
through the perilous ſtorms that affault it, ſafe into the ha-
ven of peace, would it not be a taſk worthy of his head and
heart, to invigorate the falutary rules refpecting ſchools
and colleges; to add new ones, if judged expedient; pointing
the whole to the effectual eſtabliſhment of a ſyſtem of national
virtue. What fo likely to fecure the noble purpoſe of the
Royal proclamation? What more defirable to the mot
virtuous Sovereign in the world, who, by a thouſand daily
proofs, fhows, that the virtue, felicity, and glory of his
people, is the fupreme and conftant wish of his heart!
The prefent alarming effects of a long unprincipled,
though fashionable education, in a neighbouring country,
holds forth an awful admonition to the nations.
2. The Latin language ought ever to be held as an in-
difpenfable qualification, elſe youths of genius may loſe the
only opportunity of rifing in the world; perfons indifferently
qualified will be put into the office of ſchoolmasters; and lite-
rature at laſt will be banished from the country. Beſides this,
the youth ſhould be taught the principles of reading and wri-
ting the Engliſh language with propriety; the principles
of hiſtory; principles of geography; principles of mecha-
nics; the practical parts of mathematics; and,
3. The principles of agriculture: The rudiments of
which may be reduced to as fimple a fcale, and be as eafily
taught, as book-keeping. It is now taught in the univer-
fity of Edinburgh. A fmall compend may be made, and
illuſtrations procured on the moft material parts, and com-
municated to the youth, when his understanding is fuffi-
ciently opened, and he is about to leave the ſchool, and be-
#ake himſelf to the employment of agriculture.
This
334
Statistical Account
This method would create a tafte for agriculture among
the youth of our country; an emulation would take place
from the ſchool. The young farmer would rejoice to enter
upon, and excel in the profeffion of his fathers; he would
acquaint his father with the principles of the ſcience he
had learned; the father, in return, would confirm them,
with the fage obſervations he had made in the courſe of a
long experience; prejudices would be removed, important
knowledge reſpecting the art would be circulated; a noble
enthuſiaſm for agricultural improvements would be diffu-
fed through every parish. Premiums from the Board of
Agriculture to the more ingenious and induſtrious, would
give the deſign additional efficacy and fuccefs.
This country is employed in agriculture, manufactures,
and commerce. The education ſhould be adapted to theſe
objects. Academies, upon a fimilar plan, eftabliſhed in
towns, and endowed with proper falaries, would be much
for the benefit of the public. The bulk of mankind have
neither time nor money to procure a liberal education; a
ſcheme of this kind brings inftruction within their reach,
and tends to reconcile them to it; would produce genius
and improvements in mechanics, manufactures, in all pro-
feffions; and communicate to the generality of the people
various branches of knowledge, of which they are at pre-
fent deftitute.
The foundation being thus eſtabliſhed upon a well con-
ducted education, it may be proper to add ſome of theſe
means which might improve the preſent ſtate of agricul-
ture in the parish. Let it fuffice to name the moſt ob-
vious.
Hedge-rows and Inclofures.-Though theſe abound in
the parish, it is to be wiſhed they were reared with atten-
tion, and made more perfect. Hedge-rows, of fo long ufe
of Bothwell.
335
1
in England, have had a confiderable influence to bring that
foil to its high ſtate of improvement. This country, from
its bleak fituation, and thin air, requires warmth to nouriſh
its plants.
A Belt of Wood round the Farm-houfe would be an im-
provement.
Theſe circular clumps, rifing here and there amidſt in-
cloſed fields and lawns, would not only ſhelter, but give the
whole country the look of a moft extenfive pleaſure-
ground.
To moderate the high Price of Wages is a moſt important
object of good policy. The feat of manufactures being in
the neighbourhood is not a fufficient plea; the wages have.
been high before the manufactures were fo flourishing;
and there is ftill a great number who, from early habits,
prefer the labours of the field. Gentlemen in other coun-
ties have eſtabliſhed proper regulations for this article, and
it is certainly the intereſt of gentlemen and landholders to
confine this charge within due bounds.
The Two-borfe Plough would fave the one half both of
men and horſes, and eſpecially the confumpt of oats. The
oats confumed by three or four horfes upon a ſmall farm
muſt be very great. Lord Kames has calculated, that the
quantity of oats confumed yearly by the work-horfes in
Scotland, amounts in value to L. 261,940, 16 s.
The Leafes for two 19 Years are moſt preferable. They
give encouragement to the farmer to expend liberally in
improvements, becauſe he confiders it as a patrimony to
his family. He truſts, that what he throws away his fon
will recover with increaſe. Short leafes and poor farmers
are
336
Statistical Account
are the great bars to improvements. If it is objected, that
an advance of rent is expected at the end of the first 19
years, that may be agreed upon at certain periods of the
leafe; and if judiciouſly managed for 38 years, it would be
worth a third or a half more than it was at the beginning.
A more favourable Rotation would be highly advantage-
ous; a great deal more in grafs, and leſs in tillage. This
would be the eaſieſt method to put farms into good order,
and to keep them in it. The half of feed, labour, and ma-
nure might be ſpared; the work done in proper feafon, and
at the half of the expence.
A generous Indulgence upon the part of the Proprietor to
the tenant may fometimes be very expedient; remitting
him ſome part, or allowing fome deduction, in proportion
to his liberal improvements. It is not requifite, where
farms are in good order; but confidering the general condi-
tion of tenants, it is impoffible farms can be improved
otherwiſe. Whereas, if fuch a meaſure was adopted for 8
or 9 years, at the beginning of the leaſe, the farmer would
be enabled to apply a double quantity of manure, and
thereby greatly advance the value of the ground *.
But
* A gentleman of property in the neighbourhood, fince theſe remarks,
has favoured the writer with a few lines, reprefenting, in ftrong terms,
the injury done by hunters to the farmers in this parish. He obſerves, that
the exercife ſhould be confined to an open country, and dry fields; for,
if purſued in a deep loamy foil, as here, the damage may foon be very
great, involving wheat, fown grafs, hedges, and all vegetation in ruin.
In a word, he does not know a greater grievance that a poor farmer la-
bours under. The hint deferves notice; it comes from a gentleman who
is dreffing his farm with a degree of taſte equal to any in the country.
To this, perhaps, it will be faid, that gentlemen muſt have their ſport.
Yet, with all deference to that noble and ancient profeffion, may it not be
aſked,
S
337
of Bothwell.
But for theſe, and more effential improvements, we look
to the Board of Agriculture, where, from the diftinguiſhed
abilities, zeal, and application of the Honourable Prefident
and his coadjutors, and the countenance of our moft gra-
cious Sovereign, there is good reaſon to expect, that the
greateſt benefit will accrue to the country.
Farmers here, and in the neighbourhood, have been for
fome time ſubject to inconveniencies. The advantages
arifing from their nearneſs to Glaſgow are of late im-
paired, granaries being eſtabliſhed there, and fupplied with
Engliſh and foreign grain, the brewer and baker are fur-
niſhed in larger quantities, and upon a certain credit. The
fmall portion of the farmer meets not with fo hearty a re-
ception as formerly. The price of wheat, it has been ob-
ſerved, is ſuppreſſed till after Candlemas, when moſt of the
ſmall farmers are obliged to difpofe of it. The value of
their crops have not increaſed in proportion to the ma-
nufactures about them; fervants wages high; manure
fcarce, and the price advanced; a fupply of horſes not to
be had, but at a very confiderable charge.
Pater ipfe colendi
"Haud facilem effe viam voluit."
VIRG.
He, therefore, who diffeminates the principles of found
knowledge among his fellow-citizens, and from thence pro-
duces the moſt liberal crops of induſtry and virtue, this is
the true Patriot, who confers the nobleft bleffings upon his
country, and merits immortal praiſe.
VOL. XVI.
U u
NUM.
afked, muft the virtuous induſtry of a poor family be forfeited for mere
amufement, the fruits of the earth deftroyed, and a bar put to thofe im-
provements which are justly become the object of national concern
There is no gentleman but will reply, that nothing can be more diſtant
from their fentiments. What pity then, but fome regulations were made
by theſe gentlemen themfelves, to prevent fuch ravages, and to fecure
foils of a certain defcription, which nature meant not to be ported with.
The meaſure is much wanted, and would be highly conducive to the po
lice of the country.
338
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER XVIII.
PARISH OF RAFFORD,
(SYNOD OF MORAY, COUNTY OF ELGIN, AND PRESBYTERY
OF FORRES.)
By the Rev. Mr WILLIAM STEPHEN, Minifter.
IN
Name.
N the courſe of time, the name of this parish has under-
gone fome variation. About the beginning of the 13th
century, in a charter from Pope Innocent to Bricius biſhop
of Moray, it is denominated Ecclefia de Ruffus. How long
this had been the received orthography, feems not very
clear; but from the commencement of our preſbyterial
record in 1651, I find it written, at fucceffive periods, Raf-
fart, Raffard, and for about 60 years back, almoſt invari-
ably Rafford. Being no adept, however, in the ancient
Celtic or Gaelic languages, I will hazard no conjecture a-
bout its true etymology.
Situation,
of Rafford.
339.
Situation, &c.—It is fituated in the county of Elgin,
prefbytery of Forres, and Synod of Moray; extends from
N. E. to S. W. above 8 English miles in length, and from
5 to 3 miles in breadth. On the E. it is bounded by the
parishes of Alves and Elgin; on the S. by thoſe of Dallas
and Edinkillie; on the W. by the river Findhorn, and the
parish of Forres; and on the N. by that of Kinlofs.
Soil, &c.-The face of the country is much diverfified;
part of it being low, flat, and fertile; part of it elevated,
moorish, and rocky. The complexion of the foil, too, is
various; confifting of a deep and rich clay, a hot and blow-
ing fand, a black and fhallow mould, bottomed with rock;
though the greater part is compofed of a rough brown gra-
vel, where the bottom is a continued ftratum of ſmall peb-
bles, fo cloſely compacted that no ploughfhare almoſt can
pierce it, and having the appearance of calcination.
Climate, &c.-The air can hardly be faid to poffefs any
ſpecific quality; it is rather dry than moiſt, rather healthy
than otherwiſe. The moft prevalent diftempers, at leaft
fuch as generally prove moft fatal, are fevers, confumptions,
and aſthmas; theſe may partly be owing to the heat and
dryneſs of the foil, to the cloſe and ſmoky air of the dwell-
ings, as well as to the nature of the food, eſpecially pota-
toes, on which, for feveral months of the year, many of
the poorer claſs are almoft wholly fuftained.
Hills.-The bills, none of which are remarkable for
height, are chiefly covered with heath, furze, whins, and
juniper. They produce abundance of excellent peat, turf,
fallen fir, and other fuel, and afford extenſive pafturage for
fheep and black cattle.
Minerals.
340
Statistical Account
Minerals. Here are two valuable quarries, the one of
freeftone, the other of grey flate, both of which are deem-
ed inexhauſtible. The acceſs to both is eaſy, and the ma-
terials are much eſteemed in building, for their eaſineſs in
working and durability.
Cattle. The native breed of cattle is fmall; an ordina-
ry ox or cow feldom outweighing 70 or 80 lbs. a-quarter.
The horſes are very indifferent, except with the beſt far-
mers. Sheep are numerous, ſmall fized, and moftly white;
their wool is fine, and the mutton very delicate.
Population.-According to Dr Webſter's report in 1755,
the population of Rafford then amounted to 1313 fouls.
From an accurate lift taken in 1791, the number of
parishioners did not exceed 1072; of thefe 488 were
males, and 584 females; about 840 were found ex-
aminable, i. e. above 7 years old. The number of houſe-
holders was exactly 238; of whom 136 were married, and
had iffue; 16 were married, and had no iffue; 18 were
widowers; 48 widows; the remaining 20 unmarried, and
5
of them bachelors. The annual medium of births for
the laft 7 years, as they ftand on the record, may be com-
puted at 32; of marriages, at 8: But of the deaths no ex-
act regiſter has been kept, owing chiefly to that reluctance
with which the tax on burials was paid by country peo-
ple*.
Poor.-About 40 poor are fupplied from the parish
funds. Our capital ſtock is L. 50 Sterling, and our week-
ly collections amount from 2 s. 6 d. to 35.
Longevity.
*The late taxes on births, baptifins, marriages, burials, &c. are now
repealed.
of Rafford.
34*
Longevity.-Few of the natives are remarkable for lon-
gevity. There are now only about three individuals in
the pariſh whoſe ages exceed 80, and the generality of old
men ſeldom attain that period.
Agriculture.-The bulk of the people are employed in
agriculture, and fome have pretty extenfive farms, though
few have begun to inclofe their grounds, or to lay down
green crops. This defect may be partly owing to want of
due encouragement, as well as to ancient prejudice, to which
laft cauſe it is perhaps too often afcribed. Of late, indeed,
feveral of the farmers have built decent houſes, for which
they have an allowance from the landlord, and a ſpirit of
improvement begins to prevail. Thoſe whofe farms are
in good order, yoke two horfes only in a plough, with
which an expert hand will make very neat and excellent
work; but the greateſt number difcover a predilection for
oxen, of which they generally couple 6 together, and in
the hilly parts, (or as they are called provincially the
braes), where the farms are ſmall and the tenants poor,
the yoke is frequently compofed of two cows, and two hor
fes to lead.
Occupations,
c.-Spinning flax is the great occupation
of the females, moft of which they raiſe at home, and make
into fheeting, diaper, and fackcloth; for little of the native.
growth is fine enough for fhirting. Many of the poorer
clafs, too, fupport themſelves by ſpinning to yarn-merchants,
who allow them from 10 d. to 1 s. per ſpindle.
Of handicraftſmen weavers are the moſt numerous clafs,
amounting to 16 or 17, including journeymen and appren-
tices. There are 4 tailors; 3 blacksmiths; 3 millers; $
joiners, and fome of the farmers work in wood, and make
their
342
Statistical Account
their own ploughs, harrows, carts, and other implements
of huſbandry.
Religion. All the parishioners, (excepting two or three
families, who belong to the Seceffion), profeſs the Eſta-
bliſhed Religion, and are very punctual in their attendance
at church. Viewed in this light, they appear, upon the
whole, a fenfible, decent, and ſerious people. In former
times, indeed, the high and myftical doctrines of Calvinifm
being univerfally taught, and admired as the only fyftem
of orthodox belief, had diffeminated among the ignorant a
fpirit of wildneſs and bigotry; but this, for more than half
a century paſt, has been gradually fubfiding; and it is hum-
bly hoped, that the rigid and fallible dogmas of men will
no longer be ſubſtituted for the pure and rational truths of
the gospel. On the other hand, as no earthly community
is perfect, the moſt prevalent vices I have had occafion to
remark in this, are falfehood, intemperance, fenfuality, and
petty thefts; theſe perhaps will be found moft congenial
to mild and temperate climates.
Heritors, &c.-The heritors are the Earl of Moray, pro-
prietor of Tarras and Cluny; the Honourable Lewis Duff of
Blervie; Alexander Penrofe Cumming of Altyre, and Jo-
ſeph Dunbar of Grange, Efquires. The valued rent of
the pariſh amounts to L. 2612 18:10 Scots; and the an-
nualrent, of which a great part is victual, may be eſtima-
ted, communibus annis, about L. 1600 Sterling.
:
Eftates, &c.-The Earl of Moray, though he has no family
feat, holds fome of the fineſt lands in the pariſh; his people,
too, ſurpaſs moſt of their neighbours in the decent appear-
ance of their houſes, and the order in which they keep their
grounds. In Tarras they raiſe plentiful crops of wheat,
barley,
3
of Rafford.
ን
343
barley, oats, peaſe, beans,-flax and potatoes; theſe laſt
are found an uſeful mean of improvement. The mode of
preparation is this: An exhaufted field is let out in par-
cels, rent free, to poor people in the neighbourhood, who
on their part furnish the manure, labour the ground by trench-
ing it with the ſpade, plant and reap the crop. In this
manner, the bottom foil, which is a ſtrong clay, being ex-
pofed and meliorated, acquires a degree of fertility which
it does not lofe for years after. The oats produced here.
are of a ſuperior kind, and highly efteemed for ſowing.
The lands of Cluny, fituated in the hilly part of the parish,
are fomewhat cold and backward; the foil, however, is
powerful, and the corn pretty good of its quality, and the
whole eftate is accommodated with abundance of fuel and
pafturage. Here is the flate-quarry formerly mentioned,
which is rented from the proprietor by the taekfman of
the farm wherein it lies, and by him let out to the quar-
riers, at the rate of 40 s. per 1000 rough flates.
The barony of Blervie is a valuable eftate, comprehend-
ing large and fertile fields of corn, which produce grain of
an excellent quality, efpecially barley, oats, and rye. There
are confiderable tracts of moorish and hilly ground upon it,
where the paſture in general is very dry and falubrious. It
is alſo well ſupplied with fuel; for though in fome places,
by the abuſe of thoſe who have long had fervitudes upon
them, the peat-moffes have fuffered dilapidation, yet in
others they ſtill remain unbroken; and wherever the pro-
prietor's people find a deficiency of peat, they have re-
courfe upon the moors, which furniſh them with turf fuf-
ficient to make up their annual complement. Mr Duff
has built a very neat modern houfe, which he has greatly
ornamented, by planting the adjoining hills, improving his
farm, and laying out his fields to advantage. The ancient
family
344
Statistical Account
family feat belonging to the Dunbars, is moftly demoliſh-
ed; all that remains of it being a high tower, which, ftand-
ing on elevated ground, commands an immenfe profpect,
including almoſt the whole Moray Frith, with a great part
of the counties of Elgin, Nairn, Inverness, Cromarty, Rofs,
Sutherland and Caithnefs.
Eaſtward from this about two miles, ftands the caſtle of
Burgee, the feat of Dunbar of Grange. It is a large and
beautiful fabric, confifting of a fquare tower of fix ftoreys,
built in 1602, and an adjoining manfion founded about a
century later.
The gardens occupy feveral acres, contain
a variety of fruit-trees, and are ſkirted with double rows
of fine ſpreading beeches. In approaching this place,
which is very confpicuous, the mind is powerfully im-
preffed with an idea of ancient magnificence. Here is the
freeftone quarry alluded to page 340. from which, though
great quantities of materials are conſtantly taken, the pro-
prietor derives almoſt no pecuniary advantage. It is fur-
ther remarkable, that though Mr Dunbar's rental has fu-
ftained little or no alteration for more than 80 years;
though the whole of his lands are very improvable, and
abound with every needful accommodation; yet his peo-
ple are not affluent, their farms are poorly cultivated, and
their houſes mean. Thefe defects muft doubtlefs in fome
meaſure be attributed to want of leafes, which, on account
of certain family embarraffments, that gentlemen is not
difpofed to grant them. Being reftricted, too, from cut-
ting peat in the moffes of Burgie, they confume a great
part of the fummer in providing their fuel, which they
muſt bring from the moffes of Altyre in the oppofite ex-
tremity of the pariſh, where Grange has a fervitude. This
inconvenience ſtill further aggravates the want of agricul-
tural improvement in his eftate.
Altyre
of Rafford.
345
Altyre was formerly a diſtinct pariſh, belonging to the
parfonage of Dallas, and was annexed to Rafford by act of
Parliament 1661. The walls of the old church remain en-
tire, which till of late, that Mr Cumming erected a new
tomb, had been the burying-place of his anceſtors time out
of mind. The Cummings of Logie, who are a branch of
this family, and moſt of the ancient refidenters, ftill conti-
nue to bury here. The foil of Altyre is generally thin,
but ſharp and productive. It commands a prodigious ex-
tent of hill and pafturage, and the peat-moffes are inex-
hauftible. The prefent proprietor has brought his farm in-
to the higheſt order, and obferves a judicious rotation of
green and corn crops, which feldom fail to be rich and a-
bundant. He has planted about 1000 acres, with fir and
other timber, which are advancing rapidly and decorating
the place. The family feat is an old plain building, with
two neat modern wings, and though well fitted up and
commodious, is not fuitable to that ftyle difplayed by its
ingenious owner everywhere around it. Of late, however,
he has adopted the idea of building a new manfion, on a
very ſuperb and elegant plan. Here is a ſpacious garden,
abounding with a variety of excellent fruit and culinary
ſtuffs. On the north and eaſt it is incloſed with a high
wall, which is covered with a number of fine eſpaliers, con-
fifting of apples, pears, cherries, plumbs, apricots, necta-
rines, peaches, &c. all of the rareft kinds, and moft exqui-
fite flavour. For fome time, Colonel Cumming has refi
ded, with his family, in Tarres, where he has a fine houfe
and a confiderable property.
Church, Stipend, &c.-The church is nearly centrical,
being fituated about 3 miles fouth-eaft from Tarres; it
was rebuilt in 1754; and the manfe in 1746. In the times
VOL. XVI.
X x
346
Statiſtical Account
of Diocefan Epifcopacy, this was the feat of the ſubchanter
of Moray.
Mifs Brodie of Lethen is patron. The ſti-
pend, by decreet in 1752, is 76 bolls 3 firlots barley, and
L. 349: 13: 4 Scots, including 100 merks for communion-
elements. A procefs of augmentation is now depending
before the Court of Teinds.-The falary of the fchool is
16 bolls of bear; it has long been in a flouriſhing ſtate.
By his unremitting attention to the morals as well as profi-
ciency of his pupils, during a period of more than 40
years, the preſent teacher has acquired a juſt degree of ce-
lebrity. Many characters now refpectable in the literary,
the commercial, the civil, and military departments, among
others the learned Rector of the High School of Edin-
burgh, who is a native, received their claffical education
here.
Obelisk. The only piece of antiquity worthy of remark,
is the ſtanding pillar near Tarres, commonly called Sueno's
Stone. It is allowed by all journalists who have viewed it,
to ſurpaſs, in elegance and grandeur, all the other obelisks
in Scotland, and is faid to be the fineſt monument of the
Gothic kind to be feen in Europe. Some time ago, when
it was like to fall, Lady Anne Campbell, late Countefs of
Moray, cauſed it to be ſet upright, and fupported with ſe-
veral ſteps of freeflone. The height of this ſtone cannot
now be eaſily afcertained; it rifes about 23 feet above
ground, and is faid to be 12 under it. Its breadth is about
4 feet. What is above ground is vifibly divided, on the
eaft fide, into feven parts, containing a variety of military
fculptures. The greateſt part of the other fide is occupied
by a fumptuous crofs, under which are two auguft perſon-
ages in an attitude of reconciliation.
The
of Rafford.
347
www.
The Reverend Mr Cordiner of Banff, in his letters to
Mr Pennant on the antiquities and ſcenery of the north of
Scotland, has exhibited a fine drawing of this monument,
and his remarks on it appear to be more fatisfactory than
any I have read. He fuppofes it to have been erected in
memory of the peace concluded between Malcom and Ca-
nute, upon the final retreat of the Danes from the king-
dom. This event is faid to have happened about the year
1012.
But to whatever tranfaction it may allude, it can hardly
be imagined, that in fo early an age of the arts in Scot-
land as it muſt have been raiſed, fo elaborate a performance
would have been undertaken but in confequence of an
event of the moft general importance. It is therefore fur-
prifing, that no more diſtinct traditions of it reached to the
æra when letters were known.
i
NUM-
348
:
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER XIX.
UNITED PARISHES
OF
WHITSOM AND HILTON,.
(COUNTY OF BERWICK, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TEVIOT
dale, and PreSBYTERY OF CHURNSIDE),
By the Rev. Mr GEORGE CUPPLES, Minifter of Swinton.
Situation, c.
THE united parishes of Whitfom and Hilton, in the
prefbytery of Chirnfide, Berwickshire, are conjectu-
red to extend in length from W. to E. about 4 miles
English; from S. to N. the breadth does not exceed 2 miles.
They are bounded by Edrom parish on the W. and on-
the N.; by the parish of Hutton on the E; and by Swin-
ton and Ladykirk on the S.
Farms,
•
:
:
of Whitfom and Hilton.
349
Farms, &c.—They contain the following farms; in enu-
merating and deſcribing which, I begin from the weſt, and
go eaſtward.
1. The first I fhall take notice of is Weft-laws, the pro-
perty of Robert Hepburn of Clerkington, Efq; confifting of
about 665 acres; the rent of which is only L. 140, upon a
leafe; which, from change of times, has proved moſt diſ-
advantageous to the proprietor, without much enriching
the humane, but indolent tenant; as the leaſe foon expires,
it will no doubt be more than tripled. Weft-laws contains
a great deal of fertile, dry, and well-expofed grounds; but
much of it marshy and wet, and many neglected fields,
over-run with whins, &c. but very capable of being im-
proved, when a new leaſe and an enterpriſing tenant ſhall
fall to its ſhare. The farmer's old, plain, and unadorned
manfion, office houſes, and the cottages of his hinds and de-
pendents, form a little village on one of thefe long emi-
nences with which this part of the country abounds, from
which elevation the farm derives its name; this fituation
commands a fine profpect, and may eafily be rendered dry
and commodious..
2. Weft Newton, the property of Charles Buchan, Efq;
confiſts of 250 acres, rented at L. 130, upon a new leaſe,
(for it has long been occupied by the prefent tenant and
his father), which commenced at Whitfunday 1794, the
validity of which is now difputed by the proprietor, in a
procefs before the Court of Seffion. Seventy acres of it are
bad, extremely fo, being moory and marshy, from the wa-
tery fituation of the farm, which renders it often inaccef-
fible from moft quarters; it is ufually called Buchan's
Me.
i
3. Eaft
350
Statiſtical Account
3. Eaft Newton, the property of James Dickfon of An-
ton's-hill, Efq; conſiſts of about 250 acres, much exceeding
indeed in moiſture, but containing more good, dry, and
fertile ground than the former. It is rented at L. 160,
upon a leafe nearly expiring; and this farm, along with
17 detached acres at the north-eaft corner of it, rented at
L. 17, and amounting, with the rent of Eaft Newton, to
L. 177, conftitutes the property of Mr Dickfon in this pa-
rish at prefent.
4, Langrigg is, as its name implies, a long narrow ſtrip of
land, confifting of 155 acres Scots meaſure, or 186 Engliſh.
It is low, but well improved and ſkilfully cultivated, as it
has very long been in the occupation of the proprietor, its
rent cannot be preciſely afcertained, but it is not over-rated
in its preſent ſtate at L. 1 Sterling per acre, and of courſe
gives L. 186. It is the property of Joſhua Tart, Eſq; and
gives a vote for a Member of Parliament. This eftate
pays only 6 s. 8 d. to the minifter, the fuppofed converfion
of a boll of oats of old; the new ftipend not yet localled.
I
5. Ravelaw and Eaft-Laws, the property of Sir Alex-
ander Don, Baronet, occupied in one farm, confiſts of 466
acres, the rent of which is L. 372. Along with fome wet,
marsh, low lying ground, it contains no fmall proportion of
good, fertile, dry, and well expofed ground, well improved,
and ſkilfully cultivated.
6. In our progrefs, there occur certain fmall portions of
ground, too fmall to conftitute a farm, yet not to be omit-
ted in this account of the parish. 1ft, the 17 detached
acres at the north-eaft corner of Eaft Newton, already
mentioned as part of the property of James Dickſon, Eſq;
occupied by one family; theſe few acres are exceedingly
fertile,
of Whitfom and Hilton.
351
…:,,、,、,
:
fertile, and well improved, rented, as before ftated, at L. 17.
Adjoining to which, on the eaſt, lies a feu of John Bow-
maker's, about II acres, now occupied by an ingenious
cart-wheel and plough-wright and ſmith, the only confide-
rable mechanic in this parish; his rent L. 14 Sterling; theſe
acres are remarkably good and well cultivated; they reach
to the glebe of Whitfom on the eaſt, which glebe is rather
incommoded by a feu of a ſmall fraction of an acre, and a
houſe upon it, inhabited by one old woman on the north of
the manſe; and ftill more effectually has this glebe been
hurt by clay huts; a ſmall incloſure of 4 good acres, now
rented at L. 6, on the fouth fide of the glebe, (which the
miniſters of this parish had very long poffeffed at a ſmall
rent), being taken from them on a pique of the Laird of
Wedderburn, and the reſumption ratified by the Court of
Seffion; it now belongs to the Earl of Wemyss.
7. Handie's-hill, a gradually afcending ridge of a confi-
derable length, leads from the manſe eaſtward to the vil-
lage of Whitfom. Handie's-hill belongs to the Earl of
Wemyfs, and is one of theſe farms afterwards to be men-
tioned, as conftituting the very confiderable farm occupied
by John Hogarth.
8. The village of Whitfom, the only one now in the
united parishes, is very inconfiderable, and has no trade
nor manufacture of any kind; it is principally formed by
the houſe and offices of the farmer of Whitfom on the weſt
end; the houſe and offices of a feuer at the east end; a
fine modern houſe of a feuer on the fouth-eaſt; the ſchool-
maſter's houſe and ſchool, with a few private weavers and
fhoemakers, theſe conſtitute the whole village, which con-
tains 143 fouls. The farm at the weft end of Whitfom
belongs to Bofwell of Blackadder, Efq; rented at
L. 342,
352
Statistical Account
1
!
}
1
L.
342, for not many more than 342 acres. The feu at the
eaſt end of Whitfom belongs to John Cunningham, who
occupies alfo Aitchifon's feu; thefe two feus contain 38
acres, well worth as many pounds. The feu on the ſouth
fide is John Herriot's, of 60 acres, which are rather under-
valued at a guinea an acre, equal to L. 63. Indeed, all the
lands about this village are moft fertile excellent foil, and
fine expoſure.
9. We fhall next enumerate the farms occupied by an
opulent and confiderable farmer, John Hogarth, under the
Earl of Wemyfs, their proprietor:
ift, Hurdie's-hill, already mentioned, which contains
families, and forms a fort of ſuburbs on the weſt end of
Whitfom.
2d, Hilton, about three-fourths of a mile to the eaſt of
Whitfom, formerly a ſmall village, with a Rirk and manſe,
both now in ruins, in confequence of the annexation and
the different arrangements made by the farmers. The
whole old parish, exclufive of Tandinfield, contains only
9 families, confifting of 50 fouls.
3d, The Weſt Vaults, which, along with Eaſt Vaults,
under another tenant, contains 28 fouls in 7 families.
4th, Cantrigg and Deadrigg, on the fouth fide of the pa-
riſh, containing 29 fouls in feven families. All theſe are
moſt fertile ground, eſpecially near the old village of Hil-
ton, where the fields are not exceeded in fertility by any
part of the county at a diſtance from the towns.
10. South of Hilton lies Tondinfield, the property of
Anthony Fofter, Efq; occupied by a farmer, who does not
refide upon it. It contains 270 acres, rented at L.220:
The foil, expofure, and cultivation excellent, as the name
feems to imply; containing, in 7 families, 32 fouls.
II. On
of Whitfom and Hilton.
353
11. On the north of Hilton, on Hilton-hill, lies Myre-
fides, well named from its low, marshy fituation, divided
into two parts, one of them a feu of George Purves, con-
fifling of about 20 acres, fuppofed equal to L. 15; and a
ſmall farm of about 40 acres, part of Mr Bofwell's eftate,
which pays L. 38 of rent to the proprietor, and L. 6 to an
old farmer for quitting it to the preſent tenant.
12. Immediately north of Myrefide lies the farm of
Dykelhead, the foil much inferior to the foil of Hilton and
Tondinfield, and rented low accordingly at L. 132, part of
Mr Bofwell's eftate, as is likewife now French-Law, within
thefe few weeks purchaſed by him from a Mr Scott of
Alnwick, at nearly 40 years purchaſe, rather from its con-
tiguity to his other grounds, than its fertility, which is cer-
tainly, however, fuperior to Dykelhead; it is conjectured
to have got its name from the French, either as allies or
foes, having made a neighbouring eminence their ſtation
while in this part of the country; the rent is L. 50. To
the north of it lies Moorhoufe, a very ſmall detached piece
of ground belonging to the fame proprietor; the moſt
northerly, and the very worſt foil in the pariſh.
13. North-west of Dykelhead and French-Law, the feu
of Leethead, belonging to Robert Chirnfide, confiſts of 44
acres, moſt of it good fertile ground, well worth L. 1 Ster-
ling per acre. Here rifes Leet, which, inconfiderable as it
is, is the only ftream which has obtained a name in this
parish; it is minutely defcribed in the account of Swinton,
where it becomes more confiderable.
14. Due eaft of Hilton-hill lies the large extenfive farm
of Wynnefield, called fo from Wynne Johnftone, Efq; its
late proprietor, and now the property of the Earl of
VOL. XVI.
Wemyfs.
YY
ར་ར་བ་ཅམ 38,, དྷས
354
Statistical Account
¡
Wemyss. Wynnefield confifts of 650 acres. The farmer's
houfe is a little more than an Engliſh mile upon a public
road, very gradually floping from Hilton-hill, and the fer-
tility and value of the land fenfibly declines as it recedes
from Hilton; and this decreaſe in the goodneſs of the foil
is moſt perceptible on the north fide of the road.
Population. According to Dr Webſter's report, the po-
pulation in 1755 was 399. At prefent, this pariſh contains.
in all 590 fouls; of which number, 206 are men; 246 wo-
men; and 139 children at or about 10 years of age. One
of theſe men is 93, and one woman 94; this old woman is
found and healthy, and as ſhe came in with the century, fo
there is good reaſon to believe ſhe may ſee it out.
Ecclefiaftical State. The prefent incumbent is Mr John
Waugh, in the 82d year of his age. He was ordained
a diffenting minifter in Alnwick in 1743, and admitted
minifter of Whitfom at Whitfunday 1755; he is a wi-
dower, and has 3 children; the eldeft, a daughter, married-
to the miniſter of Swinton; the fecond, Robert Waugh,.
furgeon of the 93d regiment; and the third, John Waugh,
miniſter of Menmoor in Angus-fhire, in the prefbytery of
Brechin. The ftipend, by a very recent augmentation,
now modified, but not localled, is in money L. 82
And for communion-elements now given,
Along with two fmall bolls of wheat, value
One chalder of barley, value in money
One chalder oat-meal, value ditto
The whole being
With two glebes, amounting together to 28
acres, well worth L. 1, 10 s. per acre, or
O O
5 0 0
2
12 O
12 16
O
L. 113 16
0%
42 16 o
L. 155 16 O
The
of Whitfom and Hilton.
355
{
The annexation, which had been fome years before de-
creed, took place in 1735, by the tranflation of Mr George
Home from Hilton to Whittingham in Eaft Lothian. Mr
Waugh's immediate predeceffor in Whitfom was a Mr.
Calder, brother of Cadwalleder Calder, Efq; author of a
very neat account of the Five Nations of Canada. The
church was, in my remembrance, a miferable thatched build-
ing, which, though now flated, is ftill very ill feated, nar-
row and incommodious. It will be acceptable to all con-
cerned, if the Earl of Wemyfs, patron and principal pro-
prietor, refume a plan of John Stewart, Efq; his predecef-
for in the eſtate of Vaults, and in the patronage of Whit-
fom, (as Robert Johnfton, Efq; of Hilton was in the eſtate
and patronage of Hilton), of building a handfome church.
upon Handie's-hill, a moft commodious fituation both for
the villagers and the parish at large, and not more remote.
from the manſe than the prefent church, which is most in-
conveniently detached both from the village and from the
manfe. All the parishioners are ftaunch Prefbyterians,
either of the Eſtabliſhment or of the Seceffion; the Sece-
ders are not above 1 in 12 in proportion to the adherers to
the Kirk.
Poor. The poor have, till very lately, been fupported
by the ordinary collections on Sunday, and the box was
rather rich; but of late a very flender tax has become ne-
ceffary.
School. The ſchoolmafter of the united pariſh has a fa-
lary of about from L. 8 to L. 9 Sterling, a houſe, a ſchool,
and a very ſmall garden, with kirk-dues, and ſome perqui-
fites arifing from his collecting the road-money. However,
by the prudent choice of ſchoolmafters, fome able teachers
have occupied this place, and have had great numbers of
Scholars in penmanship, languages, mathematics, and the
practical
1
356
Statiſtical Account
practical arts derived from them; and fome very worthy
members of fociety in the learned profeffions, and in infe-
rior lines, owe their education to Whitfom fchool, till they
went either to the Univerſities, or to their apprenticeſhips.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.-The grains fown in this pa-
riſh are oats, barley, wheat, peaſe, beans, veatches, rye very
feldom; and the roots cultivated in the fields are potatoes
and turnips; no graffes have I met with but rye-grafs and
clover, red or white. No animals are to be found, but
horfes, by which the whole tillage is performed; black
cattle, fheep, and here and there an afs for medical pur-
pofes. No curiofity occurs here, except that Deadriggs
certainly derives its name from fome ſkirmishes of the ho-
ftile borderers; and that Eaft and Weft Vaults got their
names from certain Vaults, formed of old in feveral places
of this parish, for fecreting their effects, upon any alarm
from the fouth.
It is rather extraordinary, that no one heritor or proprie
tor has ſo much as a houſe within the parish, except Joſhua
Tait, Efq; This circumftance cannot have a good effect,
but muſt retard the civilization of the parishioners, and
tend to circumfcribe the religious and political views of the
people; as gentlemens feats, where the owners refide any
part of the year, never fail to diffuſe a degree of urbanity,
politeneſs, and fubordination, very falutary to ſociety; in-
duſtry is rewarded, ingenuity and arts flouriſh. This in-
convenience of the abſence of the great is gradually abating
by the rapid improvement in the education, manners, opu-
lence, and mode of living of the preſent farmers. Some of
them have a tafte for books; and not a few live in a ſtyle
which their lairds 40 years ago did not exceed. One of
theſe tenants, if he had his abftemioufnefs and felf-denial,
would
of Whitfom and Hilton.
357
would be truly the untutored and unlettered fage deſcribed
by Horace,
"Abnormis fapiens craffaque Minerva."
"His native energy deſpiſes rules;
"Nor takes he fenfe or ſcience from the fchools."
The common people are moderate, fenfible, and ſober;
nor have any of them for theſe 40 years been charged with
a capital crime. Nor do I recollect either riot, violence,
or diſorder among them. Such as have had an opportuni-
ty of a better education, have imbibed it with docility and
fuccefs. Nor do I know, on the other hand, any inftances.
of very fplendid abilities, or extraordinary exertions among
them. Any thing like commerce with them confifts in
the fale of corn, eggs, poultry, &c. to Berwick.
ADDEND A.
1. I have not been able to aſcertain the acres nor the
rents of each farm of
Bofwell of Blackadder;
but his acres, on the whole, are nearly about 960, and his
rent very exactly L. 560.
2. Neither the acres in general of the Earl of Wemyss,
nor the particular acres or rent of each of his farms, do I
know; but his rent is certainly about L. 1100.
NUM
35$
Statiſtical Account
NUMBER XX:
PARISH OF PETERCULTER,
(COUNTY, SYNOD, AND PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN.)
By the Rev. Mr George Mark, Miniſter.
Origin of the Name.
HE latter part of the name is variouſly written,
THE
fancy fuggefts. By fome it is written Coulter; o-
thers write Culture, &c. In our oldeſt pariſh-regiſter,
which begins with the year 1674, it is uniformly written.
Culter. This, probably, is neareſt to the original word,
which feems to be a Gaelic compound, confifting of cul,
"the back," and tir, " a country *."
Extent,
*To account for this etymology, it is to be obſerved, that the pariſh-
church ſtands on the north bank of the river Dee, which ſeparates two
Large tracts of country. Near to the church are ferry-boats, which con-
meet the lines of communication between the two countries. Here are
united
of Peterculter.
359
:
Extent, &c.-From the eaſt point, this parish ftretches
S. W. and W. 8 miles. Towards the intermediate point,
where
united feveral roads, which lead from different points, and here is the
chief paffage across the river, next to the bridge of Dee, from which it
bears weſt about 6 meatured miles.-Gaelic had certainly been the lan-
guage of the inhabitants at a very early period; and when they travelled
from the north into the fouth, or from the fouth into the north, they
would naturally fay, they were going to cul tir, the back or extremity of
the country. When Popery became the eſtabliſhed religion, chapels had
been built on the oppofite fides of the river, and dedicated to their re-
ſpective faints, Mary and Peter; and to the names of thefe faints, the an-
cient name of the place had been added. To them were confecrated, not
only the chapels, but the neareſt wells; the one called the Lady's, and
the other Peter's well. A few paces from the church there is a high
and ſteep bank, called Peter's heugh. I am inclined to think that the
name of the parish is Gaelic, becauſe ſeveral places in it, and around it,
do evidently derive their names from that language. For instance, fouth-
weft from the church is the barony of Kenarty, or Kean-ardè; fo called
from the ancient feat of the barons, which was fituated on the top of 2
fmall eminence, at the extremity of higher ground. As we go eastward
to Aberdeen, next to the eſtate of Culter, by the lands of Murtle, ſo call.
ed from mur (or muir) til, "the turn or reflux of the fea." The tides,
when they rife higheft, do not now reach within two or three miles of
thefe lands; but it is probable that fome centuries back, they had flowed
that far. In feveral places the fea has receded, and a recefs of it has been
obferved at Aberdeen. Befides, the progrefs of the tides might be ob.
ſtructed by the Dee ſhifting its bed; or by the great quantity of mud,
Land and ſtones, carried down with its rapid ftreams.-As we proceed
towards Aberdeen, the next eſtate is called Cults, or Cultis, from cul,
“the back,” and teas or deas," fouth;" it having a warm expofure to
the fouth, and a hill behind it, to ſhelter it from the north and north-eaſt..
Its fituation anſwers to the fituation of a place called Sunnyfide. In the
north corner of the pariſh there is a farm called Leuchar, which fignifies
a place where rushes grow. On that farm they abound. In the north
fide of the pariſh there is a farm called Auchlee, in Gaelic Auch-laodh, i. e.
"Calf-field." It had been noted for rearing calves.-Many more inftan-
ces could be given. In proceeding to the weftward, I find the names of
places, except thoſe which are modern, to be Gaelic, or tranfations.
from it,
360
$
Statistical Account
1
where it is indented by Dalmaik, it does not extend above
5 or fix miles. It is in many places 5 or 6 miles broad.
This pariſh is of a very irregular form. The burn of Leu-
char or Culter, parts it into three divifions; the weft, and
the fouth and eaft divifions. That burn flows from the
Loch of Skene fouthward, and after dividing the parishes
of Echt and Skene in that quarter, it turns eaſtward along
a large tract of peat moſs, called Leuchar-moſs; and there
it gets the name of Leuchar-burn.
Proceeding towards
the fouth-east 3 miles, it is in that courſe the boundary be-
tween the parish of Skene and the weſt diviſion of this
parish. It then receives the burn of the Ord, and runs,
in a line almoſt at right angles to its former direction, from
a fouth-weft corner of Skene, to a north-eaft corner of Dal-
maik; fo that it quite interfects this parish, which is there
only a mile and a half broad. At the N. E. of Dalmaik,
the burn of Gormack falls into it; and then it is called
the Burn of Culter. Thence it directs its courfe fometimes
eastward, ſometimes fouthward, and washing part of Dal-
maik, and the north-eaſt fide of the barony of Kenarty, falls
into Dee at the fouth-eaft corner of the glebe †.- The
weſt
* Leuchar-burn, prior to its junction with the Burn of Ord, paffes
through an extenfive flat, partly meadow, partly ſwamp, and ſome of it
arable. But it is fo liable to inundations that none of it can be ploughed
but in a very dry feaſon. At the end of the flat there is a cataract. Some
time ago, a maſon was employed to cut the rock and deepen the channel,
that the plain might be drained. By fome defect, however, in the plan
or execution, or in both, the end was not attained.
{
† I have been the more particular in tracing the courfe of the Burn of
Culter and Leuchar, becauſe in that tract a canal might be formed be-
tween the river Dee and Loch Skene. Into the north corner of that
lake runs a pretty large ſtream, after gliding through a finooth valley near
K
to
of Peterculter.
361
weſt diviſion approaches to the figure of the larger fegment
of an half-elipſe, and is feparated from Dalmaik by the
Gormack-burn, which makes an oval fweep from the
N. W. to the N. E. point. Its length is 3 miles, its great-
eſt breadth as many; but it diminishes at the north-weſt
boundary, to a quarter of a mile. It contains ten ploughs.
Culter burn feparates the eſtate of Culter from the barony
of Kenarty, which makes the fecond or fouth divifion of
the parish, extending from the burn to the fouth-weſt, be-
yond the church of Dalmaik. In that direction it is above.
3 miles long. In fome places it is 2 miles broad, in others
I mile; and towards the fouth-weſt boundary, it is not ma-
ny paces in breadth. The eaſtern divifion may be faid
to be a many-fided trapezium. Its breadth from N. to S.
is 5 or 6 miles; except on the W. fide, towards the burn
of Leuchar, where it diminiſhes to 3 miles, and at laſt to
the half of that meaſure. From E. to W. it meaſures
from 5 to 3 miles. This is the largeſt divifion, and com-
prehends the eftates of Culter and Counteffwells, and the
lands of Murtle.-The figure of the parish being fo irre-
gular, it would be difficult to compute its ſquare contents:
There was never any furvey made of it, except of Coun-
teffwells and Murtle.
VOL. XVI.
Z z
Surface,
to the feat of the Honourable Mr Duff of Etht, and to the houſe of
Skene. By means of this, and other ftreams, the communication might
be carried forward, between Caftle-Frafer and Kemnay, to the river Don,
joining it not far from the termination of the intended canal betwixt A-
berdeen and Monymusk. When we confider the preſent ſtate of the
country, its population, improvement, opulence, commerce, &c. the
construction of fuch a canal feems to be a remote event; but it may,
like other events of a fimilar nature, be anticipated by the contemplative
mind.
362
Statistical Account
Surface, Soil, Climate, &c.-The face of the parish is
very rugged and uneven, with flopes and hollows, rocky
eminences and marshy flats interfperfed. Here and there
ftands a ſmall conical hill or a conical ridge, furrounded
with arable ground or with fwamps, traverſed fometimes.
by a rivulet. Towards the river, the uncultivated ground
is covered with furze and broom; the furze predominates.
As we retire from the river northward, there is much
moor-ground, covered with fhort heath, and ſcattered buſh-
es of broom and furze. In two of the higher hills, which
are not, however, of great height, the heath is long enough
to afford fhelter to moorfowl; but that fpecies of game
does not abound here. Partridges are very numerous.-
Towards the river, the foil is gravel and fand, with a ſmall
mixture of earth. Here and there are interjected fmall-
fields of a fine black mould, fit for any garden productions,
or for any farinaceous grain. Northward, on the higher
ground, the foil is a red earth, with a clay bottom. On
the lower ground, it is a mixture of black earth or peat-
mofs. In many places, the furface is covered with rocks
and large ſtones, fit for nothing but building fences; but in
the ſouth and weft divifions, granite is found. In the lat-
ter, there is a quarry of great extent, which has never
been opened. It is believed that it would furnish mate-
rials for building a very large city, perhaps for building
feveral cities. Here ftones 7 or 8 feet long are found on
the furface.
The banks of the Dee are noted for falubrity of air. In
this parish there is little variation of climate. The houfes
are generally built on high ground, and in a dry fituation;
and the people are healthy. I have not, however, heard
of any remarkable inftance of longevity. Several exceed
80, but few or none arrive at the age of 90 years. Rheu-
matiſm prevails among both fexes, efpecially among the
males,
1
of Peterculter.
363
males. The openneſs of their houſes; a ſcanty provifion
of fuel; the variableneſs of the weather, againſt which
they do not fufficiently guard; and the want of care, after
being heated at work,-may be reckoned among the cau-
fes of this malady. Confumption cuts off many young
perfons. Five are now afflicted with that diſeaſe, and two
have died lately. Cancerous diſorders are not unfrequent.
The wind-colick, and other flatulent complaints, are very
common. This may partly proceed from their living fo
much on vegetables, without being able to procure animal
food. Few children efcape the fmall-pox in the natural
way, for inoculation is not practiſed among them. Seldom
are either the ſmall-pox or the meaſles fatal. For acci-
dental hurts, for whatever diſeaſes require chirurgical or
medical ſkill, the parishioners are recommended to the
Infirmary of Aberdeen, where great attention is paid
to them, and many are benefited by that uſeful, infti-
tution. The phyficians obferve, that fcrofulous difor-
ders are more common among the country people than
is generally believed. Although there cannot be great
difference of climate in fo narrow a compaís, yet the
fnow is often deeper, and the froft is more intenſe in the
interior parts of the parish, than on the river fide. Here,
a fouth expoſure, and a thin dry foil, give a greater effect to
the rays of the fun. Thefe caufes contribure to make the
crops more early, and likewife more productive,
Property, Agriculture.-Almoft two-thirds of the pariſh
belonged to the late Mrs Udny Duff, and go now to her
fucceffor. About a fixth part, or more, belonged to the
late Mr Burnett of Counteffwells, who left one fon, now
a minor, attending fchool in England. The other fixth
part, comprehending the greateft fhare of the lands of
Murtle, belonged to the town of Aberdeen. The town
divided their property into four lots. Three lots were
3
feued,
364
Statistical Account
,
feued, or let in fee; the fourth was let in leafe. Mr Wat-
fon, Advocate in Aberdeen, feued the lot of Bingle. The
lot called Mains of Murtle has paffed through various
hands, and is now the property of Mr Gordon, merchant
in Aberdeen. Both theſe gentlemen have built neat coun-
try feats, at which they occafionally refide. The large and
commodious manfions of Culter and Counteffwells are at
prefent uninhabited. The lot of Oldfold belongs now to
Profeffor Ogilvy of King's College, who has let the whole
of it to one tenant. A ſmall houſe, the ſeat of the former
proprietor, is quite deſolate and ruinous. It is more than
half a century fince a part of the eftate of Drum was an-
nexed to the eſtate of Culter. In this parish, the barony of
Kenarty, or fouth divifion, containing 4 or 5 ploughs, and
alſo the weft divifion, belong, now to the proprietor of
Culter. The 4 lots of Murtle are inclofed and fubdivided,
partly by hedging, and partly by ftone fences. Some of
the incloſures have been trenched, cleared of ftones, well
manured, and brought to a ftate of improvement far from
being deſpicable. Mr Watfon has favoured me with the
following detail relative to his lot, which is fubjoined in
the note below *. The uſe of lime, as Mr Watfon obferves,
is
*My feu is called Binghill, not Bingle, in the original writs. It is 28
years fince I feued it. In extent it is 170 acres,
At that time only 42 of
theſe were arable; the remainder being covered with heath, furze, broom,
briars, &c. I planted 60 acres, and trenched and improved the reſt at a
very confiderable expence; fo all of it now bears crop but that under
wood. I put 7000 plants into every acre; that is, 420,000 plants in all: Of
thefe were firs of all kinds, alfo oak, elm, afh, planes, &c. befides many fruit-
trees in my gardens. They thrive; and many of the firs are already 15 and 20
feet high, and more. In one of the plantations a Druid's temple was
difcovered, which I inclofed. Near to it there is a large tumulus, or
cairn, which, it is faid, was once the burying place of the ancient family
of Drum, my farm having been their family feat fome centuries back.
That old family were formerly proprietors of it and Murt-hill, or Murtle,
and
J
of Peterculter.
365
is common; but it is uſed in fo fmall quantities, that no
great advantage is in general reaped from it. They muſt
bring all the lime which they uſe from Aberdeen, for there
is no limeſtone hitherto found in the parish. There may
be 3 or 4 farmers here, who annually bring out each be-
tween 30 and 40 bolls of unflaked lime, or fhell-lime, which
is equal to thrice that meaſure of flaked lime. Few of the reſt
uſe above 10 or 12 bolls in a year, and fome of them none
at all. In the eftate of Culter, and the lands in this parish
now annexed to it, there are 23 or 24 farmers; and al-
though 3 or 4 farms be fometimes let to one tenant, no
farmer pays above L. 40 of rent; fome from L. 20 to
L.
• 30; and fome from L. 10 to L. 20. Theſe farmers
have ſo many fubtenants; but every one of them is re-
ftricted to a certain number of fires. The peat-mofs be-
longing to the eſtate of Culter is almoſt exhauſted, and the
tenants are prohibited from felling any peats. They and
the tenants in the barony of Kenarty, may cut fuel in the
mofs of Leuchar, which fupplies the weft divifion, but is at a
great diſtance, and the road is very bad. In the lands of Coun-
teffwells peat-mofs abounds; and therefore, when Mr Bur-
nett purchaſed that eſtate, the farms were divided into fmall
poffeffions,
and of a great tract of country around befides. In digging up the foun-
dation of fome old walls, which were faid to have been part of the man-
fion of that family, my workmen found near an handful of filver coin,
about the fize of fixpences, infcribed Davidus Rex. About that time a
report was prevalent of a bull's hide, filled with money, being funk in a
bog. In trenching, the labourers went deeper here than any way, in full
expectation of diſcovering the treaſure, but were diſappointed.-In the
plantations there are foxes, hares, and deer, &c. When I began to improve,
the uſe of lime was fcarcely known, except at Culter, where foot and
lime were both uſed. Of the latter I drove out many cargoes. The
country people then faid, I was not wife enough; but when they ſaw the
crops it produced, by the different methods of uſing it, they changed their
opinion, and very foon ufed it themselves, and found the benefit of it.
Now it is quite common.
*
366
Statiſtical Account
poffeffions, and let to feparate tenants, fo that every houſe-
holder, with a few exceptions, pays to the proprietor. Ma-
ny of them pay their rent by carrying milk and fuel to
Aberdeen; and the improvement of the land is not much
minded. If they can lay out a ſmall ſpot in turnip and
grafs for a milk-cow or two, they ſeek no more. One of
the tenants, indeed, has a pretty large farm, well incloſed
and ſubdivided, and raiſes green crops, &c. and pays, I be-
lieve, between L. 70 and L. 80 of rent. He keeps a flock of
sheep, confifting of 100 or more, the only ſheep on that eſtate.
Formerly there were from 10,000 to 12,000 on it; but the
tenants fay, that they cannot now keep any, fince fo much
hill has been incloſed and planted. It is to no purpoſe to
expatiate on the advantage of keeping ſheep; to recom-
mend to them to employ a herd to tend ſeveral ſmall flocks
joined in one, and each perſon to pay according to his
number of fheep. They will not alter their plan. Moft
of the tenants keep the old track, they fow Scots barley
and oats alternately; few fow peafe. It is common to ma-
nure 2 or 3 acres annually, by making a fold, and keeping
their cattle inclofed there all fummer and harveſt, except
the time they are on pafture in the morning and afternoon.
The common Scotch plough is moftly uſed, and is fome-
times drawn by 10 or 12 fmall oxen under yoke, fome-
times by 4 horſes, and fometimes both by oxen and horſes
6 or 8 in number; nay, we are ſtill fò Gothic in fome pla-
ces, that a horſe and an ox are matched together. Some
inftances could be produced of ploughs, of English con-
ftruction, drawn by 2 horfes, or by 2 large oxen in traces,
without a driver. It is to be regretted, that the inſtances
are fo few.
Of the eſtate of Culter, 100 acres are planted with firs
and other trees. Of the eſtate of Counteffwells, 140 acres
are planted with firs, and 10 acres with trees of various
kinds,
of Peterculter.
367
C
kinds. A part of Oldfold and Murtle is likewiſe planted.
In all of them there is game, as in the plantations of Bingle,
and various finging birds, the thruſh, linnet, goldfinch, &c,
In fevere winters woodcocks are numerous in the woods
of Culter. I have heard a ſportſman fay, that he has, in
one day, killed 7 or 8 of them.-As plantations have in-
creaſed, ſheep have decreaſed. There were 7 farms in the
lands of Culter and Murtle, on each of which there was a
flock of fheep, and now a fingle animal of the kind is not
to be ſeen on any of them.
There are in the parish, of one kind or other, 132 hor-
fes, 79 carts, about 1000 black cattle, 49 ploughs, 2380
ſheep. All the horſes, except about 20, are of a ſmall fize;
and the black cattle and ſheep are generally of a ſmall breed.
The rent of fome of Mr Gordon's property is L. 3 an acre,
of fome L. 1, 10 s. and of fome a guinea. Of Mr Watſon's
property, only a few acres are let to tenants, who pay a
guinea per acre. In the lands of Counteffwells, the rent of
an acre of arable land, is, I believe, in general a guinea,
Some of the inclofures in grafs, being only 3 or 4 miles
from Aberdeen, let at more. In the eſtate of Culter, the
rent of an acre of infield * may be 10 s. 15. s. or 20 s.;
that of an acre of outfield, 2.s. 6 d. or I s.; one would think
fome of it dear at I s. The crop many times will not
compenfate the expence, and they own it; but they
fay, that they till it to renew the grafs; poor too is that
grafs. The valued rent of the parish is L. 216398
Scots, or L. 180: 5: 94 Sterling. The real rent is above
L. 1200 Sterling; and there are 3 falmon-fiſhings belonging
to the lands of Culter and Kenarty, whoſe rents amount to
L. 50 Sterling, or upwards.
2
Church
* The infield bears a fmall proportion to the outfield, and hill and
paſture.
368
Statistical Account
Church, Manfe, Stipend, &c.—In the year 1779, a fmall
elegant church was built, and completely furniſhed with
new galleries and feats in an uniform manner. Three
years prior to this, the manſe got a new fubftantial roof.
Then, and in 1779, it received other alterations and re-
pairs, which made it, though it be but ſmall, a comfortable.
habitation. It is built of ftone and clay, and is faid to be
more than 100 years old; therefore it cannot long remain
tight and found, unleſs the exterior coat of plafter be kept
quite entire, by being frequently renewed; already the
rain penetrates the wall in fome places when it blows a
ftorm. About 3 years ago, a complete fet of new and neat
office-houſes was finiſhed in a very ſubſtantial manner.
The ftipend is L. 38: 5 3 Sterling, 39 bolls of oat-
meal, and 8 bolls of bear. In this ftatement I include
L. 2, 15 s. or thereabout, allowed for communion-elements,
and fome allowance for grafs-money.
The ground deftined for meffuage, or glebe and manfe,
&c.
c. is below the legal dimenfions. Although preventive
methods have been uſed for ſome time back, the river Dee
and the water of Culter have made, and do annually make
encroachments on the ground allotted for grafs to the mini-
fter's cattle.
The proprietor of Culter is patron; but the right of pro-
perty is at preſent diſputed.
School, &c.—Some years fince the ſchoolmaſter's ſalary
was only L. 5 II: 14 but the minifter applied to the
heritors and the prefbytery, and got it augmented to L. 8,
6 s. 8 d.; he alſo receives L. 1 : 14: 2 from a fund left by
two of the late proprietors of Culter, Sir Alexander Cu-
ming and Patrick Duff, Efq; for teaching ſome ſcholars of
a certain deſcription; he likewife gets L. 2 for acting as
feffion-clerk, with fome other perquifites, which are but
finall
፡
t
;
ན
of Peterculter.
369
fmall. By a rule lately eſtabliſhed, he ought to receive 1 s.
6 d. for teaching English; 2 s. per quarter when writing or
arithmetic is added; and 2 s. 6 d. each quarter for teaching
Latin.
Many in the parish complain, that they are far from
fchool, and that their children are not able to go to it.
For fome time I cannot fay that it was well attended by
children near or far off. But we have now got a ſchool-
mafter of approved affiduity and care, and the number of
ſcholars has been doubled. Laft fummer there were from
40 to 50 at ſchool at the ſame time. Soon after he took
up ſchool in the end of laſt autumn, above 60 ſcholars en-
tered.
Population, &c.-In 1755, according to Dr Webſter,
there were 755 fouls. At prefent, there are 220 families
in the parish; 456 males, and 546 females, or 1002 fouls.
Their divifion, according to age, ftands thus:
}
Under 10,
212
From 50 to 60,
84
From 10 to 20,
195
From 60 to 70,
86
From 20 to 30,
140
From 70 to 80,
4I
From 30 to 40,
121
And above 80,
6
From 40 to 50,
117
In the year 1776, and for fome time after, the number
of inhabitants was above 1040. There was then a nume-
rous family in the manfion-houſe of Counteffwells, and
now there is but one fervant. In Culter-houſe there was
lately a throng family; now there are only three fervants.
Of Artificers or Handicraftſmen,-there are in the pa-
rish,
Smiths,
Wrights, who perform houfe carpentry, cart-work,
plough-work, bc.
VOL. XVI.
3 A
2
5
Millers,
379
Statistical Account'
Millers, fome of whom perform cooper-work, &c.
Gardeners,
4
Shoemakers,
Weavers,
Tailors,
6
4
12
10
And one fuller, who fcours and mills cloth, and can prac-
tife dying.
From 1773 to 1783 the average of births is 21; from
1783 to 1793 the average is 16; but the accuracy of the
regiſter cannot be much depended on. From the beſt in-
formation, however, it appears, that this parish was more
populous 40 or 50 years fince than it is now. One reafon
is, that 3 lots of the lands belonging to the town of Aber-
deen were feued, or given in fee, and a fourth lot was let
in leafe to one tenant; on this lot the number of families is
reduced from 14 to 3; from 60 perfons to 20. On the lot
of Oldfold only one family refides; formerly it was inha-
bited by 5 or 6 families. On the other two lots, Bingle
and Mains of Murtle, the number of perfons and families
is much the fame now that it was forty years ago. On
Bingle there will be an increaſe ſoon. Another reaſon to
be affigned for the decreaſe of population is this, many
young perfons go to manufacturers and tradeſmen in Aber-
deen and its vicinity; there, fo many hands are employed,
and fo great encouragement is fometimes given, that whole
families migrate thither at once. This does now and then
happen, when a farmer raiſes the rent of his crofts, or when
any difcord ariſes. Hence it is, that on fome farms we
find two or three cottages in ruins; and on other farms,
ſome cottages in ruins, and fome of thoſe which are ſtand-
ing, uninhabited.
Of burials and marriages no regiſter is kept. The num-
ber of marriages is annually about five. The number of
the dead brought hither for interment, from Aberdeen and
|
·
I
:
;
:
its
of Peterculter.
371
די
its neighbourhood, exceeds the number of perfons who die
within the parish.
The lift of poor
fome fhillings at
They likewiſe re-
Parochial Funds.-Our funds for the fupport of the poor
confift of the intereft of L. 100, the weekly collections in
the church, mortcloth-dues, c. The church-feffion have
alfo in their management annuities paid from the eſtate of
Culter, amounting to L. 6, or more, and a legacy of L. 40,
the intereſt of which muſt be paid to the defcendents of one
man and his wife, while they claim it.
contains 30 perfons. They all receive
each of three ſtated times of the year.
ceive occaſional ſupplies, as neceffity requires. The annual
penſion of ſome does not exceed 12 s.; fome get more than
L. 1; and a few of them get more than L. 1, 10 s. The
diftributions, communibus annis, exceed L. 30; fome years.
they amount to L. 40, with L. 3 or L. 4 to the infirmary
of Aberdeen, over and above. By the frequent uſe of
hearſes, the income from mortcloths has greatly decreaſed.
In the year 1782 and 1783 a confiderable part of our ſtock
was laid out in the purchaſe of meal and grain. By a pro-
per diftribution of theſe, by a ſmall ſhare of victual fent by
Government, and by donations from Mrs Udny Duff of
Culter, and Mrs Irvine of Drum, the poor on the roll were
made comfortable, and ſeveral perfons, who had fuffered by
deficient crops, received a feaſonable aid. Two or three
of the poor only go about as mendicants.
Although there be not at prefent any gentry who attend
our church, the collection made on Sabbaths does honour
to the charitable ſpirit of the congregation.
Alehoufes, Morals, &c.In this parish there are three
houfes where ale and fpiritous liquors are fold. Forty
years back there were four times that number, and ine-
briation
372
Statistical Account
briation was too prevalent. Then ale and a few drams
conſtituted the treat; now punch is more common.
Thofe
three alehouſes ſerve chiefly for the accommodation of tra-
vellers, and of perfons who meet to tranfact buſineſs. I do
not perceive that they are prejudicial to the morals of the
parishioners. In this place it is rare to fee a perfon intoxi-
cated with liquor *.
The
*I do not mean here to affirm, that we are free from excess of every
kind. All claffes exceed in the uſe of tea and tobacco, particularly of the
latter, as it is confumed in fnuffing, chewing, and fmoking, This laft
ſpecies of coarſe luxury is too much practifed by both fexes. I have
known fome perfons fo much enflaved to it, that they carried their to-
bacco-pipe with them on Sunday, for the purpoſe of ſmoking on the way
to and from church.
Dr Cullen very properly claffes tobacco among fedatives or narcotics.
The fmoking of it occafions to beginners fits of ſickneſs, fevere, although
of ſhort duration, and fometimes proves an emetic. In long practition-
ers, it produces fome degree of torpor and low fpirits, or difpofes to fleep.
In melancholy people, it tends to increaſe the diſeaſe. It alſo impairs the
eye-fight, and fome have thought that it is adverſe to the genial powers.
It is to be regretted that fo large remittances are ſent from theſe king-
doms, to procure a very pernicious article of luxury. When America
was a part of the British Empire, this branch of commerce was encou-
raged as a favour done to our colonies. For their fake, the cultivation of
tobacco was prohibited in Britain. One who is but little converſant in
politics would think, that this indulgence ought to have terminated with
the commencement of the American revolt, or of American independ-
But this claims not much attention, if we could be fupplied with
a better ſubſtitute. Such a fubftitute might, perhaps, be found in camo-
mile flowers. By mixing them with tobacco in ſmoking, a flavour is pro-
duced much more agreeable than that of tobacco alone. I believe that they
are applicable to moft of the ufes to which tobacco may be applied.
They are lefs noxious, and poffefs more virtues. They are, or they ought
to be, an ingredient in the British herb tobacco, and British herb ſnuff.
By chewing a few of them, a flight diſorder of the ftomach may be re-
moved. In attacks of the wind-colic, many have recourfe to tobacco; ca-
momile flowers are preferable; and the chewing of them might be found
ufeful in cafes of dyspeply or atrophy,
ence.
j
373
of Peterculter,
The people are, in general, active, fober, and indu
ſtrious, of a humane and peaceable difpofition, decent in
their behaviour, and come to church clean and decent in
their drefs. In fome, perhaps, the features of the ſelfiſh
principle may be too plainly difcerned.
I have been nigh 20 years here, and I have not heard of
any perſon, belonging to this place, capitally tried; and
only of two or three who have been impriſoned or baniſh-
ed.
All the parishioners are of the Eſtabliſhed Church, ex-
cept a very few who are of the Epifcopal Church, and
three or four women who attend the Seceders. A few
young perfons do alfa refort to fome church, or Chapel of
Eafe at Aberdeen, although it be at a greater diſtance than
their parish church. It is pretended that they go to hear
favourite preachers, thofe eminent for popularity; but I
have heard it alleged, that they are drawn thither by mo-
tives not purely of a religious nature.
Manufactures.-The late Mr Duff of Culter granted a
long leaſe of ſome acres of ground, cloſe to the public road,
and along the burn of Culter, to Mr Bartholomew Smith,
an Englishman, for the purpoſe of erecting a paper-mill.
In the year 1750, Mr Smith erected a mill, with proper
edifices and machinery; and on 1st January 1751, he com-
menced the bufinefs of paper making. This was the first
attempt of the kind in the north, and fucceeded. The
work is now carried on under the direction of Mr Richard
Smith, the leffee's fon and fucceffor, who generally em-
ploys fix men in the different parts of the procefs. For-
merly they manufactured fuperfine paper, and paper for
notes to the Aberdeen bank. I have written on fine poft
paper which was made at this mill, equal in quality to any
that I have ever feen. At prefent the fabrication is chiefly
confined
374
Statistical Account
ཟ དྷ
confined to common paper for printing and writing, to
paſteboard, cartridge-paper, and all kinds of wrapping pa-
per, &c. For all theſe a ready market is found at Aber-
deen, where the demand is greater than can be ſupplied
by this and the paper-mill on Don. With the machinery
of the paper-mill is connected that of a barley-mill.
I cannot help taking notice of the fituation of this mill,
which is beautifully romantic, or might be made fo. It
ftands in a bottom containing about 6 acres, almoſt fur-
rounded by a ſteep hill, the front of which is feemingly
compofed of the fegments of different circles; the burn of
Culter rolling along in a ſtraight line, or parabolic curves.
The precipice is higheſt on the N. the N. W. and the W.
thence declivous towards the fouth, at which, and the
fouth-eaſt point, there is fome opening. To the eye, the
front of the ſteep would feem, in fome places, to be nearly
perpendicular, and the angle of declivity does not exceed
23°. The perpendicular height is, in fome parts, about
400 feet. A ftream of water could be carried over a high
part of the precipice, and would form a grand caſcade,
which, with the planting of the circumjacent flopes, would
add much to the beauty of the fcene.
About 5 years fince, a diſtillery, confifting of two ftills,
(each containing 40 gallons), with proper utenfils, was
erected in the fouth-eaft corner of this parish, on the burn
of Murtle, nigh to the ſpot where a barley-mill formerly
ſtood, and not far from the river Dee. When the duty
was raiſed, the bufinefs was interrupted for fome time;
but it is now refumed by a company at Aberdeen, who
proceed briskly, and make excellent fpirits. Although
the diſtance from Aberdeen be only 5 miles, the fpirits
diftilled here cannot be carried to that market. Small is
the quantity which can be vended within the pariſh, and
they must therefore try to find merchants acroſs the coun-
3
try,
3.
375
of Peterculter.
try, until fome alteration ſhall be made in the laws now
exifting relative to diftilleries.
I fhall not be thought to digrefs much from the defign
of the ſtatiſtical volumes, when I obferve, that above fifty
years back, in confequence of an agreement between the
late Earl of Fife and the late Mr Duff of Culter, a faw-
mill was conſtructed on the burn of Culter, at its conflux
with the river Dee. Fir-trees were brought down the ri-
ver to it, from the woods of Braemar, and manufactured.
But this work has been difcontinued theſe 40 years and
more; and people ſpeak feelingly of the want of it, be-
caufe during the time of its fubfiftence, the country was
well fupplied with excellent timber.
Stockings are manufactured here for the hofiers in Aber-
deen, as mentioned in the report from Echt.
Roads and Bridges.-Here we cannot boaſt much of the
excellence of our roads, although few places afford better
materials. Some of the croſs roads are impaffable to car-
riages, fome of them too bad for foot travellers, and ſeveral
parts of the public road to Aberdeen ftand in great need
of repairs. By the exertions of Mrs Udny Duff, during
two years before her death, fome part of it was made tole-
rable, and fome bad fteps were mended. Before her, the
late Mr Burnett of Counteffwells was zealous in the ſame
caufe. Through his own eftate he got crofs roads made,
which are now very ſerviceable. As he was a gentleman
of a benevolent and public ſpirit, and was called away in
the vigour of life, his death might have been confidered as
a public lofs.
The Aberdeen road had at first been ill projected. To
travellers it prefents an emblem of the elevations and de-
preffions which frequently occur in the journey of life. So
much
375
Statistical Account
much aſcent and defcent, in fo quick fucceflion, and in a
Space of ſo few miles, can ſcarce be met with in any other
road. Some gentlemen in the neighbourhood, ſenſible of
this inconvenience, have thought of planning out another
road, in a fhorter line and a more level tract. But the ex-
ecution will be laborious and expenfive, and to raiſe a fuf-
ficient fund would be fomewhat difficult. The moſt eli-
gible refource, perhaps, would be, to obtain an act for eſta-
bliſhing turnpikes.
I cannot finish this article without mentioning, that few
perfons perform the ftatute-work on the roads, and fome
are fo unwilling to pay the commutation-money, which is
low, that recourſe muſt ſometimes be had to the taking of
pledges. Yet the generality clamour more than enough
about the badnefs of the roads, particularly of the roads.
which lead to church. There may indeed be ſome cauſe
of complaint, if what I have heard be true, that fome
years
the commutation-money has been collected through whole
diſtricts, and none of it applied to the making or repairing
of roads.
As one travels along, he cannot help being offended at
feeing feveral cart-loads of ſmall ftones, which had been
gathered off the fields, thrown into a pit or ditch at the
road-fide, when they might have been better difpofed of
to fill up pits and ruts, and broken places in the middle of
the road. I am of opinion, that the farmers would readily
apply their gleanings in that manner, if any gentleman,
who takes a concern in the public roads, would expreſs a
wish for its being done.
There are two arched ftone-bridges in this parish. One
of them is over Leuchar-burn, near its junction with Gor-
mack-burn, on the road leading from Aberdeen to part of
Cromar, &c. It is in bad repair. A part of the battle-
ments or parapet is fallen down; fo that a beaſt and cart
fell
of Peterculter.
377
It
fell over it, more than 15 years ago, and both were de-
stroyed. It was built in 1608, and repaired in 1710.
has both theſe dates. Near to this bridge are the remains
of a rampart called the guard dike. Tradition informs,
that a ſtrong guard of armed men was ftationed here, to
prevent all communication between the found and the in-
fected, while the plague raged in Aberdeen and its envi-
rons, about 130 years ago.
The other bridge is over the burn of Culter, on the Dee-
fide road, a little below the paper-mill. This is a good
fufficient bridge, and in good repair. It does not bear any
date, but it had been widened above 40 years fince. For-
merly it did not eafily admit carriages, for it had been
built before they were much ufed in this country.
Cloſe to the lower fide of this bridge, there is a rock on
each fide of the burn, projecting a little, and inviting, one
would think, to throw an arch over there. The fummit
of the rock is more than 30 feet above the bed of the ri-
ver. If a bridge had been conftructed on that foundation,
it would have added fome grandeur to the afpect of the
place; the public road might have been fhortened; and a
ſteep afcent might have been avoided. That aſcent is, by
much labour, now made eafier,
There are other two arched * ftone bridges; each of
which has the fite of one pillar in this parish, and of the
other in the parish of Dalmaik. One of them is over
Garvock-burn, on the road leading to the houſe of Drum;
the other, which is a very ſmall one, is over a rivulet, on
the road leading to the manfe and church of Dalmaik, two
or three paces from the miniſter's garden.
VOL. XVI.
3 B
Thunder
*There are ſeveral bridges in this parish compoſed of long ſtones laid
horizontally, and ſupported at each end by a ſtone wall.
378
Statistical Account
3
Thunder and Lightning. On Saturday, 10th July *
1779, we were vifited here by a fatal thunder-ftorm. The
morning of that day was bright and hot. At noon the he-
miſphere was overcaft. A torm gathered in the north,
and made its progrefs fouthward over this place. About
o'clock the explofion of the thunder-cloud, then vertical
to us, was tremendous indeed. At that inftant, a farmer's
fon with two ſervants were loading their carts, on a heath
about a mile fouth, with ftones for building the church.
The two fervants, and two of the horſes were killed. The
farmer's fon was ftruck to the ground, and remained ſome
time in a ſtate of infenfibility. Next evening the two
fervants were buried here in one grave. A ftone was ſet
up at the fatal ſpot, with the initials of their names.
The ancient poet's verfes may be philofophic, but are
not fufficiently defcriptive of the thunder-ftorm which I
have mentioned:
6
(6
Fulgit item, nubes ignis cum femina multa
"Excuffere fuo concurfu, ceu lapidem fi
"Percutiat lapis, aut ferrum; nam tum quoque lumen
"Exfilit, et claras fcintillas diffipat ignis,
“Sed tonitru fit, uti poſt auribus accipiamus,
06
Fulgere quam cernant oculi, quia femper ad aures
"Tardius adveniunt, quam vifum quæ moveant' res."
Lucret. lib. 6.
Quick lightning flies, when heavy clouds rufh´on,
And ftrike, as fteel and flint, or ftone and ſtone;
"For then ſmall fparks appear, and fcatter'd light
Breaks fwiftly forth, and wakes the fleepy night.
"The
#
>
Hic iterum fitus eft Cancri, cum fidere Phoebus
Solſtitium facit, et fummo verfatur Olympo.
Paft fummer folftice, Phoebus had borne the day
Through Cancer's fign, and driven the higheſt way,
of Peterculter.
379
The flaſh firſt ſtrikes the eye, and then we hear
"The clap, which does more flowly reach the eär;
J
"For light, and images of things, ſtill fly
"More ſwift than found, and quicker ſtrike the eye.'
The clap of thunder I have mentioned was awfully loud,
and was preceded by a vivid ſtream of fire; both together
impreffive of that folemn period, when the feven thunders
Shall utter their voices. But left I fhould offend any, in
this age of new philofophy, by a quotation from the facred
page, I beg leave to preſent to their view, a few lines from
the fore-cited author:
i
"Cui non animus formidine divûm
"Contrahitur? Cui non correpunt membra pavore,
"Fulminis horribili cum plaga torrida tellus
"Contremit, et magnum percurrunt murmura cœlum ?
"Non populi, gentesque tremunt? regesque fuperbi
"Corripiunt divûm perculi membra timore,
"Ne quod ob admiffum fœdè, dictumve fuberbe,
Poenarum grave fit folvendi tempus adactum ?
Lucret. lib. 5,
What mind's not ſhaken? and what foul not aw'd?
And who but thinks the angry gods abroad?
"Whofe limbs don't ſhrink, when dreadful thunder hurl'd,
Roars in the clouds, and ſhakes the frighted world?
"What do not cities, do not nations fear,
"When difmal defolation feems fo near?
"Then do not tyrant kings and haughty lords,
86
Repent their wicked deeds and boastful words?
"Do they not tremble at approaching doom,
And fear their dreaded punishment is come.
Creech altered.
Antiquities
380
Statiſtical Account
Antiquities-The hill where the two men were killed
by lightning, is commonly called the Hill of the Old-town.
It does not rife to a great height, and has a pretty exten-
five plain on the top, partly cultivated. On the N. E.
end is the farm of Oldtown, and the farm of Hilltown on
the S. W. end. Betwixt them lies a heath. On the N. W.
fide of it, a wall and ditch run from N. E. to S. W. about
3 quarters of a mile, along the flope of the hill, which is
there feparated from the public road by a fmall valley.
From each end of this wall, and almoſt at right angles to
it, ramparts had been carried S. E. towards the river Dee,
which is about a mile diftant from the angular points.
Farm-houſes, huts, folds, and tillage, render theſe ramparts.
indiftinct; but it is manifeft that they had not been carried
all the way to the river. The inequality and rocky na-
ture of the ground would have rendered that a difficult
work. It is probable that there were then thickets and
places of bofcage on the river fide, and they might have.
cut down trees to complete the barricade in theſe parts.
At the N. E. and S. W. angles, there had been half-moon
work conſtructed. The top of the bank is, in fome places,
feet above the bottom of the ditch. In moſt pla-
8 or
9
ces the height is about 6 feet. But in the courfe of cen-
turies, much of the wall muſt have tumbled down, and
much of the ditch muſt have been filled up.
No hiftory, to which I have accefs, makes mention of
this military work. Tradition has done no more than
tranſmitted fome names The rampart is called "Nor-
"man's dike;" half cultivated lands adjacent to it, are call-
ed" The Norman faughs." A large fountain, cloſe to
the eaſtern rampart, bears the name of "Norman's well.”
Theſe names, together with the form and fituation of the
work, ferve to fhew that it has been a Daniſh encampment.
For we know that the Danes and Norwegians invaded
France
1
.
38x
of Peterculter.
-
France in the 8th century. They entered the Seine and
the Loire in their boats, and plundered the country to the
gates of Paris. At length the French were forced to re-
fign Normandy and Britany to Rollo, their general, anno
876. After that, they were frequently called Normans.
Norman, too, was fometimes the name of their generals or
chiefs. About the fame time, they haraffed the coafts of
Britain, and continued their invafions to the 11th century.
In ſome of their lateſt deſcents, it is likely that they had
penetrated into this country, and formed the encampment
which I have mentioned. Confidering the nature of the
country, the pofition was well chofen. Few places, fo
near the public road, and of fo great extent, could be fo
eafily fortified, or take in fo diftinct and fo wide a pro-
ſpect.
Some think that it might have been an encampment of
William the Conqueror. He was, indeed, at war with
Scotland, for fome time preceding the peace concluded in
1072; but hiſtorians fay, that his armies never came far-
ther into the north than the town of Perth.
Advantages and Difadvantages.-Farmers and crofters,
and cottagers, are near to a good market, for what they
have to fell; but perfons who need to buy, pay as high a
price for poultry, eggs, milk, &c. as is paid at the market-
croſs of Aberdeen. The price of labour is generally the
fame here and in town. It is an advantage to be near to
a good ſea-port, eſpecially to thoſe who carry lime to their
farms. It may foon be found an advantage to all claffes,
if coals ſhall become their general firing; and that period
does not ſeem to be very diftant. If people could be re-
conciled to the uſe of coals, and were accuſtomed to the
proper management of them, they would find them cheap-
er firing now than peat and turf; and although plantations
become
382
Statistical Account
become frequent, it has not yet been found that wood is
very cheap firing.
Á diſadvantage arifes to our farmers from the nature of
the foil. Thin and fteril, it is foon over-run with heath,
whins, or broom, when it is left ley; I fay, when it is un-
ploughed and unfowed. The uſe of lime does not afford at
remedy; and marl, as far as I know, has not been difco-
vered in any part of this country. To this noxious ten-
dency of the foil, it will hardly be thought a fufficient.
counterbalance, that young broom is uſed for thatching
houſes inſtead of ftraw; that old broom and old whins ferve
for fuel; and young whins, properly prepared, make ex-
cellent food for cattle, particularly for horſes; ſheep are
very fond of them. One would think that their wool
might be improved by ſuch aliment. All vegetables con-
tain a falt and an oil, fome more, fome lefs; whins feem
to contain a good deal of both. Certain it is, that when
horfes are fed with bruifed whins, they get a fleek glitter-
ing pile, and grow plump and agile. The fame effect is
produced by giving them feeds of boiled corn, mixed with
falt. On this principle it is, that ſome farmers, when they
ftack their hay, ftrew falt on the different ftrata. The fu
perior fineness of Spanish wool is generally acknowledged.
It is well known that the fhepherds of that country lay
flates with falt on them over the pafture-ground, and the
sheep, as they go along, lick up the falt. I have been in-
formed, that in fome places, barren ſpots, after being pretty
well cleared of ftones, are fowed with whins, which are
mowed down with a ſcythe, at a proper age, and bruiſed
for food to cattle. In the year 1775, the crop on Dee fide,
after a dry ſpring and fummer, was far from being luxu-
riant; it is yet diftinguiſhed as the year of the ſhort crop
in the fucceeding winter and ſpring, almoſt every body had
recourfe to whins for provender to their cattle. Some
•
prepared
of Peterculter.
383
#
prepared them by threſhing them with flails, others by
beating them with mallets in a ſtone trough. This is pre-
ferable to threſhing, eſpecially if the mallets be hooped
or caped with iron. But theſe methods are tedious and
toilfome, and many might have a machine moved by wa-
ter for executing this work. Here a queftion occurs, viz.
What kind of a machine would be fitteft for the purpoſe?
The only one hitherto tried, is conftructed on the model of
a waulkmill or fullingmill. With fome alterations and im-
provements it might anſwer the end; but I am of opinion,
that two thick weighty mill-ftones, to go upon their edge,
like to thoſe uſed in oil-mills for bruifing linfeed, would
anſwer better.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.-It is thought impolitic to
allow corporations and focieties to purchaſe much land, and
there feems to be a general prejudice againſt it; becauſe,
when they get poffeffion of any heritage, they retain it.
This is confidered as a bar to that rotation of property fo
beneficial to ſociety, and fo favourable to the ſpirit of en-
terprize. If this prejudice cannot be removed, it may be
diminished, by confidering, that although corporations fel-
dom make an entire and unreferved fale of their property,
they frequently make a partial difpofal of their right, when
they feu, or let their lands in fee; for this gives a perpe-
tual right to the feuer, or holder, and his heirs, on paying
a certain yearly rent. But it is generally required, that
he fink a particular fum, or pay down fome hundreds of
pounds as a gratuity, at the conclufion of the bargain, more
or lefs, according to the value and extent of the land. Thus
there arifes a twofold property: A fixed annual fum is
paid to the corporation, as original proprietor or ſuperior;
but they have no concern with the land nor the tenants.
The
384
Statiſtical Account
The holder has as full and indifputable a right to theſe as
in cafes of fee-fimple.
This kind of conveyance is attended with feveral advan-
tages. The gentlemen who take the lands in fee do, for
the most part, lay out money largely and judiciouſly, in
trenching, draining, fencing, planting, manuring, &c.
Large tracts, formerly uſeleſs and rugged, are foon convert-
ed into fruitful and pleafant fields. Labourers find health-
ful employment. Tenants are furnished with crofts, or
fmall farms, in a more improved ſtate than thoſe around
them; and although the rent of an acre be three or four
times as much as the rent of an acre in the common ſtate
of cultivation, they have a better bargain. Much has been
done by gentlemen feuers in this parish, as has been already
mentioned; and in the neighbouring parish of Skene, a
confiderable extent of land having been lately let in fee by
focieties in Aberdeen, the face of a rough bleak country is
in feveral places much altered to the better.
On property of the fame kind around Aberdeen, we,
year after year, behold villas rifing, and various improve-
ments going forward. About 40 years back, the vicinity
of that town exhibited a proſpect as wild and barren as can
be well imagined, confifting of rocks, marſhes, ftony heaths,
and ſpots over-run with broom, briars, thorns, and whins.
Now it prefents us with a beautiful landſcape, of ſmall neat
houfes, gardens, nurferies, plantations, bleachfields, fine corn-
fields, &c. It is to be prefumed, that fuch beneficial alterations
had not taken place, if the ground had belonged to private:
proprietors, becauſe they feldom or never let any part of
their lands in fee; a method of transferring property,
which well fuits gentlemen who like rural amuſements,
but do not chufe to lay out much money on land. This
country is often infeſted with vagrants of various defcrip-
tions, who, by threats or otherwife, compel people to give
them
of Peterculter.
385
them money, and the beſt vivres their houſes afford. They
likewife pick up poultry, apparel, and what they can lay
hold of. Their exactions are oppreffive, their numbers
often formidable, and it hurts the feelings of the humane to
fee ſo many young perfons trained up to the fame perni-
cious courſes. It has been propoſed to build a correction
and work houſe for this fhire, and the fhire of Banff. The
gentlemen of both counties have taken fome fteps to for-
ward this laudable meaſure, and all the families in the
country have reaſon to wish them fuccefs. It is to be ho-
ped, that the more public concerns of the nation will foon
permit them to pay more attention to matters of internal
police.
Language. The pronunciation uſed by fome old per-
fons here is very broad. Second they pronounce focond;
cough, keuogh, &c. gh and ch are founded gutturally.
I think that language and pronunciation improve; but
there are peculiarities obfervable on the banks of Dee
and Don, and the interjacent diftrict. In words ending in
and, the d gets the faint found of th, a that of the diph-
thong au, and the whole is nafal; thus, land, launth; fand,
faunth, c. Ale is pronouced ail; fale, fail; and ſo of ſi-
milar words.
Wheelbarrow, pronounced Wheeborrow.
4
Board,
Peaſe,
Hid,
Beerd.
Pizz.
Hudd.
They have allo peculiar contractions, viz. cartful, cartill;
potful, pottle; &c.
They uſe the word frugal in the fenfe generally applied
to the word liberal.
A nuce, or nefs family, means a deſtitute family.
VOL. XVI.
3 C
I
386
Statiſtical Account
}
I have heard it fometimes afferted, and never denied,,
that the river Dee appears as large, and contains as much
water at Kincardine, as here, or at the bridge of Dee, a
courfe of 24 miles, in which it receives confiderable addi-
tions. This obſervation muſt fuppofe, that the river is as
rapid at Kincardine as it is here, or at the bridge of Dee;
and then it remains to be confidered, on what principle the
fact is to be explained. Say fome, on the principle of evapo-
ration. But it is well known, that in the fame climate,
the quantity of water evaporated in the fame time, is in
proportion to the furface expofed; and therefore the fame.
caufe would produce the fame effect in other rivers. As
the Dee runs upon a gravelly and fandy bottom, it is pro-
bable that fome of the water finks, and finds a fubterrane-
ous paffage.
At certain feaſons, when the river is in a proper ftate,
feveral rafts are floated down. The rafts are formed about
7 or 8 miles above this. Farther up, fingle trees only can
be floated down the river, becauſe of the rocks, fhallows,
cataracts, &c. which occur.
Some years ago,
It has been obſerved by others, that the river Dee fre-
quently overflows the contiguous flats. In autumn 1789,
the Haugh of Murtle, meaſuring 26 Scots acres, was cover-
ed with a deep current, and the whole crop, computed at
more than 150 bolls of oats, was carried away by the river,
the first night after it was cut down. The crop of this
Haugh is often expofed to a fimilar fate.
the late Mr Burnett of Counteffwells, and Captain Hen-
derfon of Newton raifed an embankment, at their joint
expence, acroſs the head of a Haugh, with a view to ſecure
their flats below. This work has been uſeful, but has not
prevented the ravages of an high inundation. In the year
179c, not only a part of the crop of the Haugh of Murtle
was carried down, but alſo the crop of the Haugh of Cults,
which
\
of Peterculter.
387
.
which is below the embankment.
About two miles below
this Haugh, a good deal of corn was taken out of the river,
cared for, and ſtacked; it was claimed by the tenant, who
poffeffed a part of the Haugh of Cults, and whole crop was
then carried away; but the man who ſaved the corn would
not give it up. This was a fubject of litigation before the
Sheriff, until the litigants found it expedient to terminate
the diſpute over a glaſs. The latter part of the narrative
may, perhaps, need an apology, becauſe it relates to ano-
ther parish.
The
A long time fince, the river Dee had, for the ſpace of a
quarter of a mile, entirely fhifted its channel, a little be-
low this church, and cut through a part of the eſtate of
Culter. Formerly, the whole of that eſtate, and of this pa-
rish, was fituated north of the river, which was the boun-
dary. Now, a fmall farm, belonging to the eftate of Cul-
ter, is fouth of the river. This farm is called the Infch,
and had long been an iſland. Here is a falmon-fiſhing,
which yields about L. 40 Sterling of yearly rent.
old channel was lately very diſtinct, but is now divided be-
twixt the two neighbouring proprietors, and put into a ſtate
of cultivation. I cannot learn from record or tradition the
exact time when the courfe of the river was altered; but,
according to the beſt information which I have got, it can-
not be less than two centuries back. This had probably
happened when a gentle thaw fucceeded a long and intenfe
froſt, when there was water enough to break and float the
ice, but not enough to carry it over the fhallows; at theſe
it ſticks and ſtops the current, which recoils, and carries
back the ice with amazing force and velocity; the channel
is crammed with fheets of ice; many are thrown at fome
diſtance, and the water fhifts its courfe. About 12 years
fince, the ice was repelled in this manner up the river Dee,
and from it, up the burn of Culter, ſo that it was thrown
over
388
Statistical Account
over my garden wall, 8 feet high, and 300 paces from the
river. A thriving hedge, and fome thriving young trees,
were cruſhed to the ground.
Eels.-A great number of young eels, of the common
ſpecies, make an annual proceffion up this river, which
may be claffed among thofe wonders with which nature
abounds. Impreffed with the ideas which this phaenome-
non at firſt excited, I beg leave to give a fhort account of
it. The time of their appearing varies according to the
nature of the ſeaſon, and the ſtate of the river. It is fel-
dom earlier than the middle of May, nor later than the
middle of June. About 15 years ago, when I firſt obſerved
them, they came in the firſt week of June; there was then
fome flood in the river, and the eels kept near to the bank,
and near the furface of the water. They proceeded in´re-
gular rows, cloſe to each other, and 7 eels in a row. The
arrangement and movement of the whole feemed to re-
femble that order which is the effect of difcipline. They
continued running three days. They were moſt numerous
the first day; fewer, almoſt by one half, the fecond; and
on the third day, they came up only in a ſtraggling man-
ner. They were 9 inches long, and 3-4ths of an inch
round.
This year, (1794), the ſeafon being mild, and the river
low, the eels made their appearance 15th May; but they
were not above half the fize of the former, and lefs regu-
lar in their ranking and moving. They continued to run
four days, with fome intermiffion on the 16th and 17th,
but very numerous towards the evening of the 18th May.
Many of them kept near to the edge of the river, eſpecially
where there is a rapid current; but ſeveral ſeemed to be
ſcattered all over the breadth of the river: For this year I
obferved more go up the burn of Culter than I could dif-
cerna
1
of Peterculter.
389
cern in the river, the burn being always rapid, all of them
muſt keep cloſe to the edge. Here it is neceffary to re-
mark, that when they come to the mouth of a burn or ri-
vulet, fo many fwim up thefe ftreams, and the reſt proceed
in their courfe up the river. I am informed, that they can
by inflinct diſtinguiſh thoſe burns and rivulets which have
their fource in lakes, moraffes, or peat-moffes, from thoſe
ftreams which derive their chief fupply from fountains;
and that the latter are little frequented by them. They
go up Culter burn in great numbers, and proceed up Leu-
char burn, a branch of it, to the loch of Skene. They re-
turn in harveſt; and the particular time of their regreſs.
varies likewiſe, according to the nature of the feaſon. In
different years it may be variouſly reckoned from the laſt
week of Auguft to the end of October; fome of them are
at this time an ell in length. Thefe have probably conti-
nued in the loch or burn more than one feafon, for their
length in general does not exceed two feet. Tenants who
live on the banks of a burn fometimes build a fish-garth,
or dam, with an opening to receive a kind of ofier baſket,
or what they call an hofe-net for catching fish. They catch
fome trout and fome pike, but eels in great abundance, at
the ſeaſon of their returning to the fea, and fometimes.
cure them in large earthen jars, or in ſmall caſks for win-
ter provifion. I have been told that, in the beginning of
fummer, the young eels are to be ſeen in the river in
fhoals, filling the water, like the herring, from top to bot-
tom; this I have never obferved. But when a ſtrong flood
and contrary wind retard their progrefs, many of them go
up ſmall rivulets, and more of them than would fill a
bufhel or t are ſometimes collected at the foot of a bank
or precipice; many of theſe cannot return to the river,
and ferve for food to ducks and other aquatics, or any pif-
civorous animals. For like caufes, the eels may be col-
محمد
lected
390
Statistical Account
1
lected in this manner, in dead water at the edge of the ri-
ver, which probably gave riſe to the opinion of their
ceeding in fhoals.
pro-
Struck with the appearance of the eels when I firſt ob-
ſerved them, I made an attempt to calculate what number
might pafs in a day, or in a ſeaſon, and found it to be leſs
than I at first imagined. Having only made an obſerva-
tion or two, I am not fupplied with fufficient data for
accuracy; but I shall compute by my firſt obſervation.
Some affert that 2 eels, at leaſt, paſs in one ſecond: Say 3
in 2 feconds, or 90 in a minute; and there being 7 in a
row, the number is 630 in a minute, or 37,800 in an hour;
which, being doubled for both fides of the river, makes
75,600 in an hour, or 1,814,400 in a natural day; the half
of which might be added for the ſecond day, and an eight
part more for the third day. Another conceit occupied
my mind, and that was, what number there might be at
once betwixt this and the mouth of the river, a ſpace of 10
miles, fuppofing both fides of the river covered as per ob-
fervation firſt, the ranks cloſe, 7 in each rank, and each of
them 9 inches long? But I fhall not tranfgrefs farther on
the reader's patience with this theory or calculation. I
fhall only remark, that the number which appears here
muſt be leſs than at ſome diſtance below this, becauſe fo
many
of them make their way up every rill and burn
which runs into the river.
It is ſcarce neceffary to mention, that eels make a like
annual proceffion up every river, water, and rivulet, which
diſembogues into the fea.
Whimsical Divifion of Parishes.-Sometimes a part of a
pariſh lies on each fide of the river, although there be no
bridge, and the communication by boat be frequently im-
practicable. Generally the parish-churches ftand on the
banks
of Peterculter.
391
banks of the river, when it is the boundary, and little at-
tention has been paid to the convenience of the parishioners.
They had been built when Popery was the eſtabliſhed re-
ligion, and care was taken that the clergy fhould not want
fish in time of Lent.
Sometimes the church ftands in one of the remoteſt cor-
ners of the parish. Mary Culter was lately an inftance of
this, and the church was hard by the feat of the principal
heritor. Dalmaik is another inftance; but the church is
at a confiderable diſtance from the feat of the principal and
only refiding heritor. The fituation of that church is pe-
culiarly fingular. A narrow ftrip of the parish runs down
about a quarter of a mile to the N. E. betwixt the river
and a wing of this parish; on the N. E. point of this trip
the church and manſe are built. The minifter's peat-ſtack,
fome of his office-houſes, and the half of the glebe, are in
this parish; the other half of the minifter's glebe is in his
own parish, and, as far as it extends to the weftward, takes
in the whole breadth of that part of the parish. Several
of the parishioners, in travelling the direct road to their
own church, paſs through a part of this parish. Some farms.
in Dalmaik and in Durris pay ftipend to the miniſter of
Banchory Ternan, and theſe farms are called Half Parish.
It would feem that the time was, when the parfon of Ban-
chory poffeffed fuperior influence, and got a flice off the
living of his two neighbours. Some farms on the boun-
dary of this pariſh and Banchory Davinick pay ftipend to
both miniſters, and they too are called half-pariſh. But
there is a farm in this parish, of an internal fituation, which
pays ftipend to the minifter of Banchory Davinick. It is
in the eſtate, and near to the manfion-houſe of Culter, not
above a mile and a quarter from our church, but nigh to
four miles from the church of Banchory, and on a different
fide of the river. We have not records old enough to il.
luftrate
392
Statistical Account
1
luſtrate the cauſe of this annexation; but I beg leave to
offer a conjecture. It had probably taken place during the
eſtabliſhment of Popery, and the farm of Glaifter berry had
then been in the poffeffion of a feudal baron, who, being
accuſtomed to command in the field, could not brook the
control of a rigid ecclefiaftic. The clergyman of the pa-
rish had probably fummoned him to fatisfy for fome of
fence; but the baron not deigning to fubmit to the ſtrict-
neſs of his diſcipline, found means to get himſelf and his
dependents put under the care of the neighbouring prieſt.
Hence, the ftipend received by the minifter of Banchory
from the farm of Glaiſterberry, is faid to be paid pro cura
animarum. A change of jurifdiction, fimilar to this, has
been fometimes effected in matters civil as well as eccle-
fiaftical. It is well known, that when the family of Cro-
marty ſet up a rivalſhip to the family of Seaforth, they had
influence enough with the Scotch Parliament to get a part
of the ſhire of Rofs detached, and formed into a new county,
now called the fhire of Cromarty. To caufes of a like na-
ture it is, perhaps, owing, that the natural boundary of
fhires, commiffariots, &c. has been altered, and that fome
eftates, lying on the north fide of the river Dee, are now
in the fhire of Mearns.
The fame ſpirit which I fuppofe to have actuated the ba-
ron of Glaiſterberry, is ftill predominant in many. Seve-
ral years ago, a clergyman here gave a very general and
gentle rebuke to a company, who came into church about
the middle of the fermon. One of them was fo much affront-
ed, that he never returned to his pariſh-church, and has put
himſelf under the care of another paftor. If he poffeffed
influence, he would, no doubt, carry fome of the ftipend a-
way with him too, and get his feceffion juftified by fanction.
I fear, that a democratical and levelling ſpirit lurks in
the breaſt of too many. Of thoſe who have any religion,
each
of Peterculter.
393
each family, or ſmall number of families, if they could af-
ford it, would have their own teachers; and many of thoſe
who have little or no religion, would readily affent to the
abolition of the clerical order, if they could, like the French
Convention, withdraw ftipend and payment for all forms
of worſhip what foever. They would abolish the common
week, and fubftitute the conventional decade; a plan of
profit and of lofs, by which mafters do every year gain the
labour of fixteen days, and ſervants are deprived of as many
days of reft. The next ftep may be, to take away days of
reft altogether. By a dash of conventional authority, they
have fubverted the law of order and ſubordination, which
is the law of heaven: They have annihilated the mutual
obligations of maſter and fervant, parent and child, ſove-
reign and ſubject; and thus they have oppoſed the appoint-
ment of God. For, although it be common with many in
great towns, to laugh at the laws of their country, and the
religion of their Maker, yet moſt of us acknowledge the
authority of the facred oracles, and we learn from them,
that the "powers which be are appointed by God;" and
we infer, that they are appointed for wife reafons: Among
other reaſons, for the following; that the reſpect and obe-
dience due to earthly mafters may be improved into reve-
rence and refignation towards our Mafter in Heaven; that
the filial affections may rife into the warmest gratitude, the
moſt entire confidence, and ſupreme love towards the invi-
fible, the univerfal, and moft beneficent Parent; and that
the loyalty and allegiance due to the lawful fovereigns of
this world, may be advanced into unfhaken fidelity and
entire fubmiffion to the Almighty Sovereign of all worlds,
who will bring the fovereignty of the people, as well as
thrones and dominions, into fubjection under Him.
One clafs of duties is fubfervient to another; and the
fame oracles of unerring wifdom put the queftion," he
VOL. XVI.
3 D
66 that
3
394
Statistical Account
"that loveth not his brother, whom he hath feen; how can
"he love God, whom he hath not ſeen;" his brother, who
is daily preſented to his fenfes, to raiſe his eſteem, and
move his kindneſs or compaffion towards him. I leave it
to the reader to apply the fentiment to the different rela-
tions of life. Our religion is adapted to our frame. In
its ordinances and precepts, we are confidered as creatures
who are influenced by external impreffions, and by objects
which are vifible, we are led to thoſe which are inviſible.
Whatever excellence or amiable quality we perceive in
ruler, friend, or parent, we are ſure that the great Supreme
is poffeffed of theſe, and of every perfection in an infinite
degree. Whatever weakneſs or depravity we diſcern in
ourſelves or others, we know that from theſe, and from
every kind of imperfection, He is infinitely removed. Him
we confider as the Giver of every noble and uſeful talent,
as the Inſpirer of every virtue. Thus we are led to pay
to Him the tribute of gratitude, adoration, and obedience,
and to commit ourfelves, with unreferved confidence to his
protection and care. From his goodneſs and mercy we
derive confolation and joy in the time of adverfity, and
paſs through the changes of life unappalled by danger, un-
fubdued by diſtreſs.
We frequently hear of the tyranny and extravagance of
ariftocrates, and are told, that "fome people are all quality,
"made up of nothing but title and genealogy; that the
"view of their ideal dignity defaces in them the very cha-
"racter of humanity, and makes them infolent and op-
"preffive." Amongft fuch declaimers, however, we ſhall
find haughtineſs and infolence enough, and fuch a degree of
an obftinate, ſelf-fufficient fpirit, that they reckon it below
them to exerciſe either good nature or good manners; and
were they poffeffed of power, little humanity could be ex-
pected
of Peterculter.
395
:
¿
pected from them. They would be well pleafed to fee
aristocrates reduced to their level, but could not bear to
think of inferiors rifing and ranking with themſelves. Of
this claſs there are fome who rail againſt the arbitrary mea-
fures of Government, and are, at the fame time, as abfo-
lute in the exerciſe of the little power they have, as any
potentate in Europe; and we may yet wonder with the
ancient Dramatist,
Dii voftram fidem ?
Itan' comparatam effe hominum naturam omnium,
Aliena ut melius videant, et dijudicent
Quam fua?
Terent. Heaut.
Blefs me! What an odd compofition men are of! that they ſhould fee
farther, and judge better of other peoples matters and manners than their
own!
Sometimes the cry is, "We have an expenfive govern-
"ment, a corrupt adminiſtration, and a degenerating con-
“ſtitution.” With feveral perfons, theſe may be only
words of courſe. They hear other men inveigh againſt
government, and they believe that any one may do the
fame. But fuch language muft, on fome occafions, be con-
fidered as a ſymptom of political diſeaſe, and an indication
of revolutionary principles. It is juſtly deemed Baſe, and
highly criminal to traduce a private perſon; and I cannot
well comprehend how it has been thought fo innocent to
malign thoſe who bear offices of public truft, dignity and
importance. In the fair way of eftimating crimes, this
ought to be branded as complicated guilt. Amongſt other
heinous tranfgreffors, who are referved to the day of judg
ment to be punished, the Apoſtle Peter mentions them who
defpife government; who deſpiſe the authority of their go-
vernors; presumptuous, or daring, and felf-willed, they are
not afraid to speak evil of dignities; to rail at perſons in
authority.
396
Statistical Account
authority. The guilt is greatly aggravated by the tendency
of fuch language, and the effect which it produces; fuch as
prejudices and unfavourable impreffions, a fpirit of difloy-
alty and difcontent, which lead to faction and confpiracy.
All this the railers againſt government have generally in
view. Such perfons may affume the name of patriots and
friends of the people; but they muſt furniſh us with a new
gloffary before we can underſtand them. To the word
patriot, we muſt not affix the antiquated idea of one who
is a lover, a difintereſted benefactor of his country; but we
muft underſtand by it, one who ftudies to embarraſs public
meaſures, to oppoſe or elude the laws, and fometimes to
embroil the ftate. If we take our definition of patriots
from that clafs of men on the continent, we muſt add, they
are thoſe men who trample on the laws of equity, alienate
property from its rightful owners, feize on public funds,
transfer as much of them as they can to their own uſe, and
apply the reft to the purpoſes of murder, bribery, and lu-
xury; or, in other words, men who attempt to miſlead the
people by fophifms and pompous founds, cajole them with
vain hopes, and perfuade them to facrifice their fafety and
peace, and to engage in ravage and maffacre; men who
would hurry multitudes of people out of the world, or
make them miſerable while they are in it, and all this to
promote the interefted views of a junto; views of ambition
and aggrandifement, perhaps of malice and refentment.
They who complain fo much of the infolence of arifto-
erates, and the defpotifm of rulers, fhould confider what
kind of rulers they are like to have, if the revolution, fo
inuch deſired, took place. In fermentations and ebullitions
the fcum rifes to the top; and in every revolution, which,
like that of France, is the work of democracy, the vileſt
and the worst thruft themfelves into places of power.
Without remorfe they contrive, and without reſtraint they
purfue
of Peterculter.
397
purfue fuch rapacious, oppreffive, and bloody meafures, as
muft fhock any feeling heart.
Amongst our ſelf-conceited politicians, another topic of
declamation is, "the folly of involving us in a war fo ex-
"penfive and unneceffary, and fending troops to affift the
"Dutch, when they did not want our affiftance." That
there are Jacobins and malecontents in Holland, as well as
in Britain, needs not to be doubted; one would even be
led to think, that there were a correfpondence betwixt
them, elfe how could the fentiments of the Dutch have
been known fo well and fo early amongst us? Theſe gentle-
men will not pretend, however, to have been admitted into
the ſecret counfels of the two cabinets; nor can they affirm,
that the Dutch government did not want our affiftance. By
their fending an army into the field, to co-operate with us
and the other allies, they gave an irrefragable proof of the
contrary. It has been fhown by writers on the fubject,
that we were bound by treaty to defend them. We were
called to do it by a principle of common honefty. Befides,
to defend the Dutch was, in effect, to defend ourſelves, ac-
cording to that well known maxim of antiquity,
Nam tua res agitur, paries cum proximus ardet:
Et neglecta folent incendia fumere vires.
When your next neighbour's houſe is all a flame,
If you neglect it, yours will be the fame.
Fires neglected increasing ftrength acquire;
Cities they fack, and level the lofty ſpire.
When a neighbour's houſe or his field is on fire, one
ought to do all he can to extinguish it, for the fafety of his
own. If the next houſe is in danger of fire, he ought to
do all in his power to prevent it. This is fuggefted to us
by the general principle of ſelf-prefervation. It is the dic-
tate of common policy and of common fenfe.
24
The Dutch
navy,
398
Statistical Account
navy, and naval ftores, would be a great acquifition to the
French; the Dutch failors would be a much greater; and
Britain ought to make every exertion in order to prevent
their getting fuch an acceffion to their marine.
Thoſe perſons who exclaim ſo vehemently againſt the
preſent war, do juſtly expoſe themſelves to the fufpicion of
being republicans and jacobins. They feem to be out of
temper that their views have been fo long disappointed.
If we had not gone to war with France; if the alien bill
had not paffed; if our fleets and forces had not been
vigilant, Britain had, before now, fwarmed with French
jacobins. Before this time we had beheld, many of us had
experienced, the like tragical events, the like inſtances of
rapine and barbarity, of confufion and carnage, which have
been exhibited on the continent. Writers on the ſubject
are clearly of this perfuafion. But the declaimers them-
felves need no proof; they have the moſt fatisfactory in-
formation, they have entire conviction in their own breafts.
Here, it is not to be forgotten, that after the French had
proceeded ſo far in the reform of their government; after
affaffinations and maffacres were committed, and commo-
tions prevailed throughout the kingdom, one of our Sena-
tors, one of theſe called Men of the People, faid in the
Houſe of Commons, that "our miniſtry ought to take ad-
"vantage of the diſtracted ſtate of France;" a fpeech which
plainly infinuated our going to war. The ſpeeches of the
ſame gentleman now abound with bitter invective againſt
the prefent war, which was not commenced on our part,
until our allies were attacked, and we ourſelves daringly
threatened; was not commenced until war became una-
voidable, unleſs we were tamely to give up every thing
valuable to us as Britons, and dear to us as men and Chri-
ftians.
:
It
of Peterculter.
399
It is cauſe of regret, that the war has proved fo diſaſtrous,
and that many of our difafters are to be afcribed to the
baſeneſs of traitors among ourſelves, who give to the ene-
my all the intelligence and aid in their power. We may
be perfuaded, that ſeveral of our ſhips, in the lift of cap-
tures, have been freighted with warlike ſtores and provi-
fions for the enemy's ufe, and have purpoſely thrown
themſelves in the way of French cruifers. It is hard to
ſay what fuccefs they may have in alluring our failors into
their fervice; but we know, that by want, bad bread, and
bad treatment, they have brought many of them to their
grave. It is treaſon to take part with the enemies of the
King and the nation, or to aid them in the manner now
mentioned. To pray for fuccefs to them, or to pray againſt
the fuccefs of our own troops, if it be not a degree of trea-
fon, does certainly come very near to it. It fhews that
there is abundance of treafon in the heart, and in the in-
tention. People do hereby ſhow the ſtrongeſt inclination
to fide with the enemy, and that nothing but want of
power and opportunity prevents them from doing it. One
is ſurpriſed to find an orator pleading publicly before a moſt
venerable Court, in behalf of ſuch petitioners; and gloff-
ing their prayers as mere wishes that a junto would not
prevail againſt France. Of that junto Britain is a part.
In the laſt feffion of Parliament fome ſpeakers repreſented
it as the principal. It is now like to ftand fingle in the
conteft; and therefore to pray for fuccefs to the French,
or to pray that Britons may not prevail, is nothing lef
than praying, that the Britiſh throne be pulled down, and
the Britiſh conftitution levelled in the duft; that Britain
may become a ſection of the French republic, one and un-
divided, and thus be enflaved to the moſt arbitrary and exe-
crable tyranny that ever exifted,
Loud
400
Statistical Account
Loud alfo are the complaints against manifold and enor-
mous taxes, which are faid to be highly oppreffive.
Theſe complainers fhould confider, that unleſs mankind
were to roam like the beafts of the defert, there must be
government, and government muſt have a decent ſupport.
Thus is the neceffity of taxes fixed. As a nation improves
in arts and manufactures; as it extends its commerce and
empire, in that proportion the expence of government in-
creaſes, and taxes must be multiplied; but the nation ha-
ving become richer, is abler to pay them. When the ru-
lers and the public fervants of a great nation can appear
with fuitable dignity at home and abroad, that nation be-
comes refpectable in the eyes of foreign powers; reſpect
and ſafety are fecured even to its fubjects.
Amidſt the extravagant murmurs which have been heard
againſt taxes, what is become of boaſted patriotiſm? By
true patriotiſm we are taught to make great facrifices to
the public good;-to facrifice eafe, power, pleaſure, and
wealth, in order to maintain the rights, to promote and
defend the honour and happineſs of our country. There-
fore, grumbling muſt, in this caſe, betray a ſelfiſh and for-
did fpirit,—a ſpirit too much enſlaved to mammon.—Even
when taxes have riſen to exorbitance, and may be confider-
ed as a grievance, we are directed to fubmit: " Ye muſt
"needs be fubject, not only for wrath, but for confcience
"fake," not only for fear of punishment from man, but
out of obedience to God. "For this cauſe, ye pay tri-
"bute alfo," &c. Rom. xiii. 5, 6. "Indeed," fays the
fame Apoſtle," there is altogether a fault among you,
"that ye have conteſts with each other: Why do ye
rather fuffer wrong?" He condemns their having quar-
rels with each other at all, whether they went to law or
Much more would he condemn infurrection, violence
and depredation. He upbraids them that they did not ra-
not.
not
ther
of Peterculter.
401
ther fuffer wrong.
fage, "cannot receive this faying, or will not receive it.
Many aim only at the obfervance of this rule, I will
"neither do wrong, nor fuffer wrong. Theſe may be ho-
"neft heathens, but no Chriftians." It were well, how-
ever, if people would abstain from doing wrong: They
would be lefs expofed to the fuffering of wrong.
Our re-
ligion does herein give us an effential leffon of prudence.
For it is certainly much better to pay a few fhillings more
yearly, than to facrifice peace, public and private,-than to
hazard the life, property and happineſs, of many thouſands.
Perfons who pretend to be Chriftians, fhould know fome-
thing of the value of a human foul. Some authors have
ſaid, that in worth it outweighs worlds. Its happineſs, then,
is not to be ſported with, nor to be wantonly endangered
for mere trifles. It is no light matter to be the cauſe of
murder and bloodshed. They who do not acknowledge
facred writ, may learn from hiſtory, and from their own
obfervation, how awfully that threatening has been veri-
fied, "He that heddeth man's blood, by man fhall his
“blood be fhed." But to be the caufe of precipitating in-
to eternity, thouſands and ten thousands of immortal fouls,
whether prepared or unprepared, is a degree of enormity
and guilt too great for us to eſtimate. The French have
tried to procure themfelves a temporary relief from the
bitterneſs of theſe reflexions, by rejecting the principles
and fears of religion.
"All men," fays a writer on this paf-
If people would confider the ravages and defolations, the
miferies and diftreffes, which follow in the train of infur-
rection and rebellion, they would pay the taxes and live
in quietness: They would retrench fome expences in dreſs
and table, or apply an hour or two more, each day, to their
lawful occupation; rather than indulge a ſpirit of envy and
difcontent, the fource of disloyalty,the fource often of
VOL. XVI.
3 E
bitter
402
Statistical Account
bitter malice and revenge againſt legal government. Of
theſe it may be faid, more juftly than in the inftance in
which the expreffion was lately applied by a popular ora-
tor, that they draw every thing into their vortex.
No prin.
ciple is ftrong enough to oppofe their force, no horrors are
fo ghaftly as to reftrain their violence. If private revenge
be juſtly condemned as bafe, unmanly and wicked; re-
venge of a public nature, revenge againſt eſtabliſhed go-
vernment, muſt be much more criminal: For who can li-
mit its pernicious tendency, or fay how far its direful ef-
fects may reach? -Contingencies often oblige rulers to
increaſe the public taxes; fuch as wars, conflagrations, na-
tional loffes and calamities, &c. The inconfiftence of thoſe
who exclaim againſt taxes, and with the fame breath wiſh
fuccefs to the French, muft excite indignation; becauſe the
longer the French are fucceſsful, the longer muſt the war
be continued and taxes be increaſed. But I truft, that in
Great Britain, the true lovers of their country are moſt
numerous, by a very great majority; and what has a vir-
tuous and reſolute majority to fear? They will ſpend the
laſt farthing which they can afford, they will ſpend the laſt
park of life, and fell it dear, rather than fubmit to the
French. If French principles, political and religious, pre-
vailed, this world, to any good perfon, would not be worth
the living in.One's indignation muft likewife be rai-
fed at hearing of a popular orator introducing into his po-
litical harangues, either as a pattern or an apology for the
feditious, the effufions of Mr Burke's enthuſiaſm relating
to America. Many men, as wife as Mr Burke, have been
in error, and have retracted. The Americans, perhaps,.
have no great caufe now to thank Mr Burke, or any who
then favoured their cauſe. But America is at preſent out
of the question. The French Revolution carries a very
different afpect. Mr Burke has publiſhed to the world his
fentiments
of Peterculter.
403
fentiments on this fubject, and it were better to bring them
into the view of malecontents, than his extravagant rhap-
fodies on American fuccefs. Many of the Americans are
now ripe for another revolution, and the orator will cer-
tainly be on the fide of the infurgents. They are contend-
ing for liberty. Between their ideas, and the ideas of
French republicans, there is a ſtrong affociation. One
would almoſt pronounce them inſpired by the fame demon.
The taxes brought America into my mind. I have heard
it mentioned in company, that the Americans paid five
times or ten times more taxes now than formerly: And it
was anſwered by fome violently attached to them, "What
"then they have themfelves the power of impofing thefe
"taxes," a very difputable point; but let it be granted,
and it is afligning the fame reaſon for their conduct, that is
often affigned for the conduct of children and fools, Let
them have but their will, and they facrifice their beſt inte-
refts, and give up with their most valuable friends. Du-
ring the late American war, nothing was heard among a
certain claſs, but exclamations againſt the haughty fpirit of
Britain. America faid it would humble the pride of Bri-
tain. The French Convention now boaft of doing the
fame; and what was faid to Diogenes, is applicable to both.
When the Cynic boaſted, that "he trampled on the pride
"of Plato;""Yes," it was anfwered, "but you do it
"with a greater pride."-Let me now afk the admirers of
French politics, how they would like the French mode of
taxing? They robbed the nobility, the clergy and church;
they compelled gentlemen to leave their eftates, or invent-
ed fome ground of accufation and took off their heads, and
then feized on their property. After thefe fources of fup-
ply were exhaufted, whatever they wanted was put under
requifition, and a refufal to comply coft the recufants their
heads. Thus men, money, horfes and cattle, were levied
404
Statistical Account
in a trice, and to any extent the Convention thought pro-
per. In the Auftrian Netherlands, which they lately in-
vaded, young men were required to make roads and canals.
Six thouſand girls were put under requifition, to attend
their fick foldiers. In confequence of this requifition, fome
thouſands of children may appear in proper time, and they
will no doubt be claimed as the property of the Republic.
They will be dedicated to Mars, and taught to celebrate
the rites of the French idol Virility. But this is not all;
men, horfes and waggons, were put under requifition, to
carry all the valuable property of the invaded country to
Paris.-In fhort, what is the French army, but a multitude
of lawleſs armed tax-gatherers, or oppreffive free-booters?
They first plunder to clothe and feed, and enrich them-
felves; and then they are ordered to lay heavy contribu-
tions on the conquered towns and territories, to enable the
Convention to profecute their levelling and bloody plans,
or to fupport their extravagant luxury. For it has been
afferted on good authority, and many will readily believe
it, that Parifian luxury, formerly without parallel, has now
rifen to a moſt gigantic height.
It may be alleged, that thefe extraordinary methods are
at first neceffary, but a milder fyftem will be foon adopted,
Believe it not. It is againſt experience, againft the doc-
trine of habits, against the love of power, fo natural to the
human mind; and againſt our knowledge of French men, and
French manners. They will continue the fame arbitrary, in-
folent, rapacious depredators, till it fhall pleaſe Providence to
overturn their prefent fyftem It is enough to fhock a
ferious mind to hear of the abfurd and wild conceits, ex-
preffed by modern patriots and malecontents. If we pro-
fefs a regard for the British conftitution, and the memory
of thoſe who formed it, and left it with us as a facred de-
pofit: Immediately it is afked, What right had our prede-
ceffors
#
of Peterculter.
405
:
?
2
ceffors to judge for us, or to chufe a political conftitution
for us?-Such querifts ought to be reminded, that of theſe
impertinent inquiries there is no end, till they arrive at
that impious one, What right had the Supreme Being to
call them into exiſtence, or to determine the place of their
habitation? They forget that they are as clay in the hands
of the potter. If thoſe who preceded them had no right
to chuſe a form of government for them, as little right
have they to chufe one for their fucceffors; ſo that every
generation might claim the right of chufing their own form
of government. Thus, in every period of 30 or 40 years,
this point muſt be agitated and determined. Any perfon
who can reflect, may eafily foreſee what would be the con-
fequence, amidſt the various opinions, the various views
and attachments of mankind, amidst interfering interefts,
and oppofite plans and purſuits, fuch political quarrels and
ftruggles muſt arife, as would haften the extinction of the
human race.
Suppoſe a forward inexperienced youth has fucceeded
to the eſtate of a father, who, after confulting the beſt jud-
ges, and procuring the best plans, had been at pains to build
a proper, commodious, and ſubftantial houſe for his heir;
inftead of being pleaſed with the father's folicitude and at-
tention, the conceited youth exclaimed, What a fool! to
pretend to plan and build a houfe for him. He refolves to
pull it down, and to build another to his own liking. A
neighbour of prudence and experience came and expoſtula-
ted with him; told him, that although the houſe did not
entirely correfpond to his ideas, it was convenient and com-
fortable, and might with a few alterations be much impro-
ved, perhaps might be made fufceptible of elegance and
grandeur; if he pulled it down, he might be buried in the
ruins, or while he reared a new fabric, the ſcaffolding might
give way, and he be crushed to pieces. But all the cala-
mities
906
Statistical Account
anities which can happen in this inftance, afford no ade-
quate repreſentation of the inexpreffible ills which muft
proceed from any violent attempt to pull down an old, and
rear up a new fabric of a political conftitution. If the old
conſtitution be justly held in veneration, the dangers ex-
ceed calculation, the difficulties are almoft infurmountable,
unleſs the people who live under it have become quite
venal, worthlefs and degenerate.
I do not mean to apply the foregoing remarks to the
people of this parish, or any part of the neighbourhood;
but when I go about through the country, I am frequently
told that the French have many friends amongſt us; and
I fometimes hear complaints and grievances repeated.
Thus my apprehenfions may, perhaps, be too much awa-
kened. After all, I affirm, that if there be 50 perſons in a
hire difaffected to Government, and attached to French po-
litics and French principles, that is too great a number;
becauſe pernicious principles often ſpread as quickly as any
infection; and in matters relating to our beſt intereſts, here
and hereafter, there ſhould be but one mind, and that ma-
nifeſted by the united energy of the whole nation. No-
thing fhould appear, but a noble and virtuous emulation,
who ſhall be foremoſt in ſerving their country.
If it ſhall pleaſe Providence to reſtore peace to us, if the
alien bill be repealed, and a free intercourſe be opened with
France, the friends of Britain, and of Britiſh privileges,
cannot have too ſtrict an eye on thoſe who have given
caufe to ſuſpect their loyalty. Democratical orators, who
wish to find the greateſt part of the nation fools, or to make
them fuch, will tell us, there is no danger that French.
principles prevail in Britain. Orators fometimes argue and
fpeak againſt conviction. Theſe gentlemen, perhaps, do
themſelves know, where Britons of French principles are
to be found, and fhrewdly conjecture that many more
would
:
:
:
of Peterculter.
407
would avow them if a favourable opportunity offered.
French principles are too flattering to many,claffes of peo-
ple; to the young and the ignorant, the disloyal and diffo-
lute, the ambitious and thofe of defperate fortunes, to the
idle and the indolent, who hate to earn a fubfiftence by
lawful induſtry, and would wish to fee plunder authoriſed
as in France. Such characters are to be found in too many
places; perfons who would readily profcribe our nobility,
gentry and clergy, and eagerly feize on their property. It
may not be improper, therefore, to re new an old advice:
"Let no price or promife bribe you to take part with the
"enemies of your King and country. Whoever wins, you
are loft. If your Prince profper, you are proclaimed
"rebels, and muft expect the confequence. If the enemy
prevail, you will be reckoned traitors, and though your
"treafon be accepted, you will be hated, fufpected and
defpifed."
66
L
I have touched the outlines of fome of the topics of the
day. They have been difcuffed with ability in Principal
Campbell's Sermon on the American War, in Dr Hardy's
Patriot, and Dr Young's Effays on Government, &c. It
is a pity that thefe publications are fo little confulted, or
perufed with fo much prejudice. Thoſe who write on
that fide, are often branded with the epithets, minifterial
tools, court sycophants, the flaves of defpots, &c. But men
ought to liſten to reafon, to weigh evidence, and regard
truth, from what quarter foever they come; and not aban-
don themſelves to paffion, refentment and prepoffeffion,
which hinder us from difcerning what is right and fit, ei-
ther reſpecting ourſelves or others. A paffionate and re-
vengeful temper renders men deaf to advice, or averfe to
receive it, weakens reafon, and robs them of all that is
great and noble in their nature; it deftroys friendhip, con-
founds
408
Statiſtical Account
founds the ideas of juſtice, changes humanity into cruelty,
and all order into confufion. It is in vain, therefore, to af
fert, that the people of Britain are incapable of the barba-
rities perpetrated in France. The contrary is well known.
Political rage, the love of power, and thirſt of lucre, trans-
form men into favage monſters. The engaging timidity
of the fair fex is loft in more than mafculine hardiness;
the uſe of the cudgel is fubftituted for the exerciſe of the
fan; and their mufical accents converted into hectoring
vociferations.
To conclude: After confidering French principles and
politics, as explained by their practice, the beſt interpreter;
after contemplating their views of univerfal depredation
and felf aggrandizement; I must conclude, that it were
better for every Briton able to bear arms, to ſtep forward
in defence of our invaluable privileges, and reſolutely die
in the ftruggle, than fubmit to the French.
It were
better for pofterity that Great Britain were turned into a
defart, and they forced to feek an afylum among untutored
Indians, than become a fection of the French Republic.
Theſe fentiments may be thought unbecoming the clerical
character. I do not think it. All Chriftians are expressly
required to lay down their lives, rather than renounce their
religion; and where can we lay them down more proper.
ly than in the field, againſt the enemies of truth, who bring
in deſtructive herefies, denying the Lord that bought them?
The ſpirit of the gofpel is indeed the fpirit of peace, but it
is at the fame time the ſpirit of heroifm.
I
NUM-
"
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
409
NUMBER XXI.
UNITED PARISHES
OF
SANDWICK AND STROMNESS,
(SYNOD AND COUNTY OF ORKNEY, PRESBYTERY OF
CAIRSTON.)
By the Rev. Mr WILLIAM CLOUSTON.
Short Account of the Orkney Islands.
THE Orkney iſlands were originally governed by their
own kings, as we are informed by hiftorians, and by
the poet Offian, of ftill greater antiquity. Theſe iſlands
having been fubdued by King Kenneth Macalpin, about the
middle of the ninth century, continued from that period
annexed to the Scottiſh throne, until the end of the eleventh
century, when they were affigned by King Donald Bane
to the King of Norway, to whom they were ſubject until
the middle of the thirteenth century; when they were
transferred by Magnus King of Norway to Alexander
VOL. XVI.
3 F
King
410
Statistical Account
3.3
King of Scotland. But although theſe iſlands were thus
ceded, the Norwegians ftill afferted their right to them,
and often poffeffed them, until the year 1470, when
James III. of Scotland married Margaret, daughter to the
King of Denmark, with whom they again paſſed to the
Crown of Scotland, in lieu of her dowry; and upon the
birth of her fon (James IV.) they were finally ceded;
which was afterwards confirmed, when James VI. of Scot-
land married Ann daughter of the King of Denmark.
Thefe iflands having been fo long and repeatedly in the
poffeffion of the Danes and Norwegians, many of the
names of places and perfons are derived from the Danish
or Scandinavian language.
Name and Situation.-Stromnefs and Sandwick are
names to be found in Sweden, Denmark, and Iceland.
The firſt of theſe may derive its name from Strom, or
Straum, and Nefs; this laft meaning an extended point of
land, and Strom the ftrong tide off that point. The parish
of Sandwick, as well as the parish of the fame name in the
Shetland ifles, of a fimilar fituation, may derive its name
from Sand and Wick, as there is a fandy bay on the weſt
fide of this parish, Wick fignifying a bay or inlet of the
fea. The centre of theſe pariſhes lies in latitude 58° 59;
on the west end of the isle of Pomona, or mainland, late
the bishoprick, now the ftewartry and county of Orkney,
in the Synod and County of Orkney, and in the preſby-
tery of Cairſton; and Stromnefs is the feat of the ſaid pref-
bytery.
Theſe parishes are bounded by the parish of Birfay on
the N.; by the loch of Stennefs on the E.; by the channel.
of Hoy Sound on the S.; and by the Atlantic Ocean on
the W. Mr Murdoch Mackenzie furveyed the fea coafts
of theſe parishes in 1740 or 1741.
Figure
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
411
Figure and Extent. The parish of Sandwick is nearly
circular, and indented on the eaft by the loch of Stennefs.
The ſcene which this parish prefents to the eye is, that of
arable ground, interfperfed with grafs grounds of a lively
green, and here and there we meet with barren breaks,
ftony and exhaufted, which have been ſtripped of their foil,
either for fuel, or to enrich and manure thefe plealant cul-
tivated spots. The moffes having been exhaufted. and
moſt of the hills ftripped of their verdure, it may be pre-
fumed this parish has been long inhabited.
The parish of Stromnefs is of an irregular figure. On
the weft fide, fronting the Atlantic Ocean, is a chain of
hills. It flopes towards the fouth; and all along the chan-
nei of Hoy Sound is a tract of fertile fields, agreeably in-
terſperſed with grafs and arable grounds. From this part
of the parish, there is a view which has a good deal of the
fublime in it; the mountains of Hoy, and fometimes a caf-
cade of water from thefe mountains; to the weftward of
which appear the hills of Strathnaver, and thofe as far as
Farouthead and Cape Wrath. Thefe, with the vaft At-
lantic Ocean, form a ſcene pictureſque and fublime, which
is heightened when the fouth-west wind blows ftrong,
which leads directly from the Atlantic Ocean. It is this
wind which blows with the greateft violence here, and
makes the greateft fea. The poet Virgil's defcription of
this wind might well apply to this place,
Creberque procellis,
Africus, et vaftos volvit, ad littora fluctus.
The fertile pleafant fields of this part of the parish, and
the fublime profpect, induced George Graham, the laft
Biſhop of Orkney, to build a houfe here, where he refided
**Virg. Æn. lib. 1, line 85.
Tome
412
Statistical Account
fome part of the year. This houfe is yet ftanding. The '
epiſcopal arms, and the date of the year in which it was
built (1633), are cut in free ftone above the door.
Theſe parishes were never furveyed with a view to aſ
certain the precife number of acres which they contain.
Mr Murdoch Mackenzie principally directed his attention.
to the fea coafts, which he has delineated with great exact-
nefs. It may be prefumed, however, that his map is as
near the truth, with regard to the real extent of theſe pa-
riſhes, as any idea we can form. By his map it appears,
that theſe parishes are 9 English miles long, and from 24
to 5 miles broad. If we fix 3 miles as the mean breadth,
which cannot be far from the truth, then theſe pariſhes
contain 314 fquare miles, which, at 640 acres to the ſquare
mile, will be in whole 20,160 Engliſh acres.
Τ
Sea Coafts.-The whole weſt coaſt of theſe pariſhes, ex-
cepting the Sandy Bay in the parish of Sandwick, are bold
and elevated, rifing perpendicularly from Ico to 400 or
500 feet in height; which, together with the mountains of
Hoy, make it eafy to the mariner to diftinguish this coaft.
The mountains of Hoy are feen from Cape Wrath, which
lies diftant from Hoy 17 leagues. Along the weſt coaſt of
theſe pariſhes, at one league's diſtance from the shore, there
is 40 or 50 fathoms depth of water. There are no fhoals
in the channel of Hoy Sound, on the fide next theſe pa-
riſhes, but two; which may be avoided by keeping two
cable lengths from the ſhore; one of theſe fhoals is viſible
at two hours ebb. As the coaft can be ſeen at a great di-
ſtance, and there are no fhoals but thefe two, which are not
dangerous, there are confequently few veffels wrecked on
the fea coafts of theſe parishes. The velocity of the ſpring
tides in Hoy Sound is 7 miles in the hour; that of neap
tides 3 miles. It is high or flack water in Hoy Sound at
1Q
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
413
:
·
10 o'clock, on the days of new and full moon, and in the
harbour of Stromnefs at 9 o'clock. The flood ſets from
the N. W. An hour before flood is perceived in the chan-
nel of Hoy Sound, a ftream fets from the north, along the
weſt coaſts of theſe pariſhes, keeping this fide of the Sound,
and continues in this direction; at half ebb another ſtream
fets from the fouth, along the fouth fide of the Sound, and
continues till high water. Theſe ftreams, when known and
attended to, help to facilitate the entrance of ſhipping into
the harbour of Stromnefs. This harbour lies at the ſouth
or fouth-east extremity of the parish. The entry to it is.
from the fouth, and is about a quarter of a mile broad.
There is a fand bank at the entry, on the weft fide, which
is not dangerous. Two fmall iſlands or holms lie on the
eaft fide of the harbour. It is well fheltered from the weſt
and north winds, by a hill that rifes above the village of
Stromneſs, and ftretches along the harbour on that fide.
There can be no fea in this harbour with the north-eaft
winds, as it is land-locked on that fide, and the violence of
the ſea, with foutherly winds, is broken by Hoy and other
islands, which fence it from the feas that lead from the
German Ocean into the Pentland Frith. It affords ſafe
anchorage, although the ground has become rather oozy,
from being much ploughed. The ſtreams which run into
it, carrying mud along with them, have made it more fhal-
low than formerly it was. There is little or no tide in it.
It is not a mile long, and not half a mile in breadth. Vef-
fels of coo tons burden may anchor in it. A fhip of war
of 40 guns has anchored here, and had fufficient depth of
water. Although it is ſmall, this is one of the ſafeſt har-
bours to be found along the north coaft of Britain, being
fheltered by high lands on the one fide, and on the other
fide by iſlands :
-infula
414
Statistical Account
infula portum*
Efficit, objectu laterum, quibus omnis ab alto
Frangitur, inque finus fcindit fefe unda reductos.
Very large veffels ufually anchor in Cairfton road, with-
out the ſmall island or holm, that bounds the harbour on
the eaſt fide, where there is alſo very good anchorage,
greater depth of water, and more ſpace; but there is tide
here, greater fea, and it lies more open and expofed. The
ebb tide, with a wefterly wind, makes a very rough fea
near the coaſt, eſpecially at the top of ſpring tides, and is
called the roft. The weft coaft of thefe pariſhes ſtretch
nearly in a ftraight line from north to fouth. The extent
of the ſea coaſt of theſe pariſhes is about 18 miles.
Soil. The foil of theſe parishes is various. In fome
places a black earth, mixed with fand, prevails; in other
places a ftiff clay; black earth alone is found in fome
places; in others, clay mixed with fand. In the hills of
Stromneſs parish there is a great mixture of fand. The
hill that rifes above the village of that name, is covered
with a great number of ftones and rocks of a granite kind,
which preſents a very rough and barren appearance; but
when theſe ftones and rocks are removed, the foil, although
fhallow, is pretty fertile. On the weft fide of the parish
of Sandwick, near the Sandy Bay, there is a good deal of
fandy foil, and an extenfive rabbit-warren, which lies north-
eaft from the Bay. This fandy foil has probably been
blown from the Sandy Bay, as the fouth-west winds are the
moſt violent, and it lies in the direction of thefe winds.
The right to the rabbits of this warren is claimed by one
heritor, and determined in the courts of law to belong to
him alone, although there are feveral heritors who have
arable and grafs grounds here, interfperfed with thoſe of
Virg. Æn. lib. 1. line 159.
the
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
415
the heritor having the exclufive right to the rabbits. There
is alſo what may be called perpetual foil in thefe parishes,
fince it has been cultivated, and has produced crops of bear,
without intermiffion, for 50 years, neither fallow nor green
crops intervening. If, with this management, it produces
crops fufficient to reward the farmer's toil, what might be
expected from it, if permitted to reft? but neither example
or perfuafion will convince the farmer of this, nor even the
fweet Mantuan bard's obfervation,
Nec ulla interea eft inaratæ gratia terræ *,
Climate. The air is often raw and damp. In the fouth-
ern extremity of the parish of Stromnefs, along the chan-
nel of Hoy Sound, it is, perhaps, not fo raw as in other
parts of this county; the mountains of Hoy attract the
clouds, fo that it often rains on that fide of the channel,
when the inhabitants on this fide enjoy clear weather.
The vicinity of thefe hills, by attracting the clouds and
vapours, probably produces a quicker circulation, as well as
a purer ſtate of the air, on this fide of the channel, which is
conducive both to health and vegetation.
Difeafes.-Coughs, colds, and fore throats, fometimes pre-
vail in winter and ſpring, eſpecially in rainy feafons, when
the air is not purified by froft, and when long tracts of
easterly winds prevail in fpring. Rheumatifms are fre-
quent, and confumptions fometimes make their appearance.
Scorbutic and cutaneous eruptions are not unfrequent a-
mong people who live in damp houfes, and have little
exerciſe. The gout is unknown. The people, on the
whole, are pretty healthy, although there are not many in-
ftances of longevity. Many arrive at the age of 60 or 70
years,
Virg. Georg. lib. 1. line 83.
416
Statistical Account
years; a few are to be found of the age of 80 years; but
very few arrive at 90 years. A farmer in the parish of
Stromnefs died laft fpring in the 94th year of his age, who
was married to one woman 69 years, who bore to him 8
fons. She is 2 years younger than her huſband, and is ſtill
alive. This man, till within two years of his death, went
as uſual about his affairs, cut and brought home his peats,
and ſhot with his gun. He was regular and temperate in
his life, and retained his faculties to the laft.
man in the pariſh of Sandwick is 88 years old.
in the parish of Stromnefs two men of 86 years, one wo-
man of 90 years, and one of 92 years. There are ſeveral
paſt 80; but it is not unfrequent, that when they paſs that
period, their memory decays, and their faculties are im-
paired.
The oldeſt
There are
Hills, Lakes, Moffes.-A great part of the weſt coaſt of
theſe pariſhes confifts of hills, occupying an extent of nearly
5 miles in length, and 1 or 2 miles in breadth. Some of
theſe hills take their name from the next inhabited town
of land; others are diſtinguiſhed by particular names, ma-
ny of which terminate in fiold, which means hill. The
names are Cringliefiold, Baillifiold, Keirfiold. This laft is
a ſmall hill, in the parish of Sandwick, very beautiful and
pleaſant, rifing with a gentle afcent; it is about a mile and
a half in circumference, is always covered with a green
verdure, and affords good paſture to fheep. It is peculiar,
however, to the ſheep that feed upon this hill, that their
teeth foon become yellow. There are two or three ſmall
lochs, but no moffes in the parish of Sandwick; there are
two ſmall moffes in the parish of Stromneſs, but no lochs.
Cultivated and uncultivated Grounds.-As there has ne-
ver been any exact furvey or meaſurement of theſe pa-
I
riſhes,
•
of Sandwick and Stromness.
417
I
riſhes, if it is defired to know the number of cultivated acres,
it muſt be ſupplied from conjecture, which probably in this
cafe is not far from the truth. A plough turns from 4 to 14
Orkney planks *. The medium may be about 8 Orkney
planks arable ground to each plough. The infield and out-
field grafs, exclufive of hill-paſture, may be about as much,
or rather more. From the beſt conjecture that can be
formed on this fubject, the divifion of theſe pariſhes in
cultivated and uncultivated grounds is as follows:
Arable ground, 227 ploughs, at 9 acres to each
plough,
Arable ſpots cultivated about the village of Strom-
nefs,
1
Grafs-grounds, infield, outfield, and meadow,
Grafs-ground of Keirfiold hill, in parish of Sandwick,
Moffes in the parish of Stromneſs,
570 inhabited houfes, with gardens, occupying
Two ſmall lochs in the parish of Sandwick,
Hills and uncultivated grounds,
Total,
Acres.
2116
30
2116
400
500
k
200
640
14,158
20,160
Thus it appears, that the arable ground is not one-ninth
part of the whole, and that the grafs-grounds are only one-
eighth part of the whole extent; that two-thirds of the
whole confifts of uncultivated hills and brakes, of no ad-
vantage but to give a little fuel, and pafture about 2000
ſheep.
Agriculture, Implements of Huſbandry.-The plough
uſed here is the fingle ftilted, the fame as is ufed in moſt
VOL. XVI.
3 G
parts
* A plank is a term uſed in meaſuring grounds in Orkney. The plank
is 40 fathoms ſquare, and confequently contains 1600 fquare fathoms.
i
418
Statifical Account
}
V
*
parts of this county. In holding this plough, the plough-
man bends to the foil, and may well be denominated cur-
vus arator, as Virgil does the Roman ploughman. The
two ftilted plough is uſed by a few, which anſwers beſt for
tilling oat-land, and the other for tilling bear-land. They
till with three horſes abreaft; fome till with two horfes;
but few till with four horfes. Oxen are little ufed in til-
lage, but they are uſed for harrowing, and carting peats.
Harrows with wooden teeth are for the moſt part uſed
a few ufe iron-teethed harrows. Crebris infectabere raftris,
is an injunction which the farmers here do not much prac-
tice, as they think the foil cannot bear much harrowing,
and that it produces a fhort light crop. They till rather
fhallow, and rely more on the quantity of manure than on
any thing elſe, for raifing a good crop. Fallowing is rarely
The firſt reſiding
or not at all uſed by the fmall farmers.
heritor, William Wall, Efq; fallows a proportionable
quantity of his farm yearly, and confequently raiſes grain
of a ſuperior quality; he is alſo making incloſures. On
the upland farms, diftant from the manure of fea-weed, a
fpot of half an acre on each farm is laid lea, which they
plough before or after harveſt, and fow it with bear the
following year; but as the weeds have generally fhed
their feeds before this ploughing, it can be of little advan
tage. This, however, is all the reft the land has.
Rotation of Crops.-If there was a proper rotation of
crops, the land might receive fome reft by this means;
"Sic quoque mutatis requiefcunt fætibus arva *.”
But the conftant rotation of crops, is that of oats and bear
in alternate fucceffion. Some ſpots have yielded crops of
Virg. Georg. lib. i. lin. 82.
bear
>
of Sandwick and Stromness.
419
bear yearly, without a change of crop, for 50 years. No
peaſe or turnip are raiſed, but by the first refiding heritor
already mentioned. A ſmall ſpot on each farm is planted
with potatoes, of which none were planted 50 years ago;
but they now conftitute a principal part of food.
Carts.—There were no carts here 50 years ago. They
are now getting into ufe. They are fometimes drawn by
a fingle horſe, but more frequently by oxen. The number
of carts is,
Parish of Sandwick,
II
Parish of Stromnefs,
12
Total,
23
Seed time and Harveſt.-Oats are fown in March, and
the first of April. Bear is ufually fown from the 1ft to
the 20th day of May. The fummer is employed in pre-
paring fuel, and carrying home peats. The crop is reaped
from the 20th Auguft, and if the feafon is favourable, har-
veft is done by the laft of September or the first of Octo-
ber. Hiems ignava colono is verified here, for there is no
labour carried on during winter, except thrashing and pre-
paring the crop. Then it is that the farmer enjoys the
fruit of his labour, and to this feafon they look forward for
the reward of their toil. They make malt, and as the ex-
cife is compounded, the greater part of them brew ale, and
drink it with one another alternately. There is no doubt.
but a great deal of the crop is confumed in this way; but if
ufed with moderation, it is what they are entitled to from
the labours of the year, and the ſeaſon perhaps requires it.
Mirth and hilarity appear in a circle of neighbours met
thus to enjoy themſelves during the rigour of the feaſon,
and here the poet's deſcription is realiſed:
Frigoribus
$
420
Statiſtical Account
"Frigoribus parto agricolæ plerumque fruuntur,
Mutuaque inter fe liti convivia curant;
"Invitat genialis hiems, curasque refolvit *."
Manure.-In the upland farms, diſtant from the ſea, the
only manure they have is the dung of their horfes and cat-
tle, with feal and divot cut from the hill and brakes.
They build a ſpot of 10 or 12 feet in diameter with feals,
which they fill with dung, afhes, and cut feals. Theſe
compoſt dunghills are carried on the land in fpring, ſpread,
and tilled down.
Sea-weed-In parts near the fea, they principally de-
pend on fea weed or ware, which, with fome little dung
and houſe manure, raiſes excellent crops. In ſome places
of the parish of Sandwick that lie in the vicinity of the
fea-fhore, they put, in winter, fea-ware on their grounds;
in fpring they put on the dung from the compoft dung-
hills; and if plenty of fea-ware is drove afhore, they put
on fea-ware again, before they till and fow with bear.
The ground, thus thrice manured, produces a luxuriant
appearance of crop, and a good one if the ſeaſon is dry;
but if the ſeaſon is wet and rainy, it falls down before it is
filled, and then feldom ripens well.
Marl.-In a few places marl is found.
It is taken up
in ſummer, and laid to dry. Then it is laid on lea-grounds
and ſpread, and in harveſt it is tilled down.
Lime.-There is appearance of limestone in both theſe
parishes. There is limeftone in the parish of Sandwick,
which lies in the direction of from S. S. W. to N. N. E.
;
and
Virg. Georg. lib. i. lin. 300.
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
421
and excellent lime is made there by the firſt reſiding heri-
tor William Wall, Efq; but none is uſed as a manure.
The petrified fand in theſe pariſhes alfo burns to lime.
Crops. The crops are very unequal in produce. In
the months of July and Auguft the appearance is very pro-
mifing, but the ſtorms of wind in the month of Septem-
ber often injure the crop. Theſe gales are ufually from
the W. and S. W. and fweeping over the Atlantic Ocean,
are collected, as it were in a narrow ftream, by the moun-
tains of Hoy, and act with great violence. The two moſt
violent ſtorms at the harveſt ſeaſon, for 30 years paſt, were
in September 1765, and on the 14th Auguft 1778. The
fea-ſpray has been known to reach 12 miles diſtant from
the craggy weſtern coaft of theſe pariſhes, which makes the
fodder falt, and often hurtful to cattle. The fear of theſe
ftorms may be faid to hurt the crop every year, as it indu-
ces the farmers to cut down their crop before it is fully-
ripe. As their farms are fmall, and their circumitances
ftraitened, theſe confiderations, joined to the recollection of
what injury their crops have formerly fuftained, make
them eager to begin harveſt; and if it be obferved to them,
that they loſe by this conduct, they anſwer, that a green
fheaf is better than a fhaken fheaf. It may be thought
that this might be remedied by fowing more early, and
confequently bringing on the harveft before the autumnal
and equinoctial gales come on; but the ſpring ſeaſon fel-
dom admits of this. In fome places where the grounds are
dry, they do fow more early when the ſeaſon admits of it;
but neither does this always fucceed, becauſe there often
happens fuch cold weather in May, as nips the crop, makes
it ſhort and flinted, thin, and ſmall in the ear. The un-
certainty of the ſeaſons hurts the crop, both as to quantity
and quality. As the farms are fmall, the prefent neceflity
of
422
Statistical Account
7
of the farmer cannot permit him to fallow any confiderable
part of his grounds; it confequently follows that the grounds
are very dirty and full of weeds, by which alfo the crop is
hurt.
It may confequently appear, that this climate is better
adapted to raiſing crops of grafs, but that has not been at-
tempted, except in very fmall fpots. Straitened circum-
ſtances, ſhort leaſes, and the payment of the rent in malt,
are bars to this. To carry this plan into execution, it
would be neceffary that the proprietors, or the tenants,
ſhould have the command of money to defray the expence
of inclofing, which has not been the caſe with the refiding
proprietors, or their tenants, for fome time paft. It would
alfo, perhaps, require a better market for cattle than is to
be found at the village of Stromneſs.
From the great uncertainty of the ſeaſons, and confe-
quent variableneſs of the crop, no precife or fixed eſtimate
can be made of the whole produce. The ground that each
farm contains is not aſcertained, and few or none keep an
exact account of the produce of their farms, nor can they
well do it, as they are in the practice of keeping up their
ftock of horfes by buying young ones of a year old, on
whom they beſtow a confiderable part of their crop, before
they are reared fit for tilling. If an eſtimate was made of
the whole produce, it would be mere conjecture. If we
were to hazard fuch conjecture, the principles upon which
we would proceed would be theſe. We would firft afcer-
tain the number of acres cultivated by each plough, and
then fix on what we know an acre of middling foil has, or
may produce, in ſeaſons not unfavourable. Upon theſe
principles it will ftand thus:
227
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
423
227 ploughs, at 93 Engliſh acres to each plough, is
Deduct acre from each plough, laid lea, is
Deduct acre from each plough, in potatoes,
Acres,
2116
56
56
112
Remains cultivated to bear and oats,
2004
Bolls.
1002 acres in bear, at 5 bolls per acre, is
5010
1002 acres in oats, at 9 bolls per acre, is
9018
Deducting a boll bear per acre, and three bolls
oats per acre for feed, there remains,
Of bear,
4008
Of oats,
6012
The value of the crop, after deducting the feed, may be
as follows:
4008 bolls bear, at 10 s. per boll, is
L. 2004
6012 bolls oats, ufually producing one-third
part meal, after deducting multure, is 2004
bolls meal, at 10 s. per boll, is
56 acres potatoes, producing 60 barrels per
acre, is 3360 barrels, at 1 s. 6 d. per barrel,
is
Total value of the crop, after deducting
feed and multure,
1002 0 0
252 0 0
L. 3258 0 0
The above ſtatement is probably not far from the truth
in good ſeaſons. When the ſeaſons are bad, the crop will
not be half of this. No eftimate can be made of the hay
produced, as it is ufually given to horfes and cattle, and
3
feldom
J
424
Statistical Account
!
feldom any part of it is fold. Before ſtating the valued
or real rent, it is neceffary to obferve, that the rent was,
and is ftill paid by pundlar and bifmar weight; which
mode of payment has been continued ever fince the Danes
had poffeffion of the Orkney Islands.
The meel is about 11 or 11 ftone, Dutch weight.
The fetting is one-fixth part of the meel, or 32 lb.
The merk is one twenty-fourth of the fetting, or 14 lb.
The lifpund is rather more than the fetting *.
Valued Rent-At the time of the valuation in 1653
The bishoprick rents were valued at
The rent of the other proprietors, at
L. 2593 19 61
I
2414 I
011
Total valuation of both parishes,
L. 5008 о
7732
The fundry articles of rent amounting to this fum, were as
ſtated in the note below †.
Real
* For a further account of theſe weights, fee Statiſtical Account of
Crofs and Burnefs, vol. 7.
+ 21 barrels 9 lifpunds 2 merks butter, at
L. 20 per barrel,
L. 432 12
Oat-meal, 142 meels 1 fetting 4 merks, at
L. 4 per meel,
Malt, 1001 meels 1 fetting, at L. 3: : 6 : 8
per meel,
Flesh, 4 lafts 14 meels 2 fettings, at L. 1 per
meel,
Wool, 5 lifpunds, at L. 6 per lifpund,
Oil, 2 barrels 3 lifpunds, at L. 20 per barrel,
Money,
568 16 5
3338 5 4
110 13
30
O о
48 8 012
479 5 6
L. 5008 0 73%
2
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
425
Real Rent. The real rent of theſe parishes, as proven
by oath of the heritors to the Court of Seffion in 1753,
when the ftipend of theſe pariſhes was modified, was,
4
Scots.
L. S. d.
604 5 10 634 14 4
Butter.
Meal.
Mait.
Barrels.lifp. mcks. Meels fett. mrks. Meels fest. [mrks.
Sandwick, 1739 16
41 O 14
Stromnefs, 329 5 27
I
5
58
1
Total,
8
2012
68 22
68
5 19
413517846 17 9
101710271481 12
I
•
The above rent, converted by their Lordships at L. 4 Scots
per meel malt, L. 5 per meel oat-meal, L. 20 per barrel but-
ter, amounted to L. 6508: 17:6 Scots, or L. 542:8:11
Sterling.
As the rent continues to be paid, for the moſt part, in
the fame articles, it has not increaſed, or has increaſed but
very inconfiderably in denomination. The rents of the
biſhoprick or Crown-lands, which, together with the feu-
duties payable to the Crown, amount to one-half of the
whole rents, have rarely been augmented. But although
there is no rife in the rent as to the articles paid in kind,
yet theſe articles have increaſed in value. The real rent
of theſe pariſhes, including kelp, mills and quarries, may
be eſtimated at the preſent period (1794) as follows:
8
20 barrels butter, at L. 3 per barrel,
68 lifpunds 22 merks butter, at 8 s. per
lifpund,
Oat-meal, 68 meels 5 fettings 9 merks,
at 15 s. per meel, is
L. 62 o
27 II,4
51 13 6
Carried forward,
L. 141
4 IO
VOL. XVI.
3 H
426
Statistical Account
Brought forward,
Malt, 1018 meels 5 fettings 3 merks,
at 10s. per meel, is
Money, L. 1481:12: 1 Scots, is of Ster-
ling money
Augmented rent on a few farms,
Rent of about 30 acres near the village
of Stromnefs,
Total rent paid from the ſoil,
Rent of a flate quarry and a mill-ſtone
quarry,
Rent of 8 water-mills, deducting expence
of fupporting them,
Kelp, profits on 50 tons, at L. 3 per ton,
deducting expence of making,
Total revenue to the proprietors,
L. 141
.
141 4 IQ
502 8 8 7
123 9 4
20
оо
25 0 0
L. 819 2 94
20
40
оо
150 0 0
L. 1029 2 9/
Befide the above rent, a few poultry and geefe are paid,
which may amount to L. 10 or L. 15 value. From the
foregoing ſtatement of the number of acres cultivated, the
produce thereof, and the rent payable therefrom, the fol-
lowing obfervations may be made: 1ft, That as the
whole rent is L. 819:2:9 paid from the foil, this is,
exclufive of the grafs grounds, 7 s. 8 d. for each Eng-
lish acre of arable ground. If one-third part of the
rent be laid on the grafs grounds, then it will be 5 s. 1 d.
per acre of the arable grounds, and 2 s. 7 d. per acre of
the graſs grounds. 2dly, That as the value of the whole
produce from the arable grounds, in good feaſons, exclufive
of the P! ofits from the grafs grounds, amounts to L. 3258,
and the rent payable from the foil is L. 819: 2: 91, that
A
iş,
of Sandwick and Sti omnej's.
427
is, nearly one-fourth part of the whole produce, after de-
ducting feed and multure; that therefore the lands are mo-
derately rented. But this will not appear to be the caſe,
when we confider, 1ft, The want of good and regular mar-
kets for the produce; 2dly, The increaſed expence of
farming, and eſpecially of fervants wages; 3dly, The dif
ficulty of obtaining ſervants, even at the advanced wages.
Services-The tenants of the refiding heritors ufually
affift for 2 days in carrying home on their horſes the pro-
prietors peats, and this is almoft the only fervice required
of them. All fervices are the remains of the old feudal
ſyſtem, and it is argued that they ought to be abolished, as
they impede improvements. But fuch fmall fervices as
theſe are no bar to improvements; for the tenants of the
non-refiding heritors, who pay no fervices, do not improve
their lands more than thofe tenants do who perform theſe
fervices.
4
State of Property.-In the times of Epifcopacy, the Bi-
fhop held the property of about one half of the pariſh of
Sandwick, and a fmall property in the parish of Stromnefs;
fo that, with the feu-duties payable to him from the other
proprietors, he received nearly one half of the rent of both
parishes. Theſe lands being now veſted in the Crown, are
fet in tack by the Exchequer to the Right Honourable
Lord Dundas of Afke, for a yearly tack-duty. George
Graham, Biſhop of Orkney, poffeffed, as private property,
hearly one third part of thefe parishes, which property is
now transferred to William Watt, Efq; Theſe two great
proprietors, with two more heritors, of whom James Rid-
doch, Efq; Collector of his Majefty's Cuftoms, is one, re-
ceive among them about three-fourths of the rents; and
the
428
Statiſtical Account
the remaining fourth part is the property of nearly 100
fmall heritors.
As the bishoprick lands are annexed to the Crown, and
cannot be transferred, it is only the remaining part, the
property of private individuals, that can come into the
market for fale. Within theſe laſt 20 years, above one
half of this remaining faleable property has been fold, and
fome of it at from 30 to 50 years purchaſe. There is no
reaſon to regret that property changes its mafters, for theſe
new proprietors are the beſt improvers of the foil, by
inclofing, adopting new modes of agriculture, building com-
fortable houſes, and erecting mills.
About 70 years ago lands were fold at 20 years pur-
chaſe, and below it; but fince the village of Stromneſs has
increaſed in number of inhabitants, in wealth and trade,
lands have rifen in value; as the fhopkeepers, who have
made any money, chufe to veft it in lands or houſes, the
inland trade being limited, and they do not incline to eſta-
bliſh manufactures, or engage in foreign trade. The de-
mand alſo by ſhipping of fome of the articles raiſed, and
the increaſed prices given, have tended to raiſe the value
of property, although theſe prices are ſtill inadequate to
what the farmer might expect, confidering the great in-
creaſe of expence in rearing theſe commodities.
Heritors.-At the time of the laft valuation or extent in
1653, there were 145 heritors, exclufive of the bishoprick
lands then veſted in the Crown. At that time there was
but one proprietor of the name of Halcro, and four of the
name of Sinclair, of very inconfiderable property, although
theſe were the greatest names in this county formerly;
one of the Sinclair's having born the title of Prince of
Orkney, and Duke of Oldenburgh, and was allied by mar-
riage to the royal family of Denmark.-In 1753, when a
modified
of Sandwick aud Stromneſs.
429
modified ftipend was obtained, the number of heritors was
140. At the prefent time (1794) there are 95 heritors.
The great proprietors are Lord Dundas, holding in leafe
the Crown-lands; William Watt, James Riddoch, William
Graham, and William Honyman, Efqrs. Theſe hold
about three-fourths of the property.
In the village of Stromnefs there are 222 inhabited
houſes, the property of 59 proprietors. Many of theſe
houſes are occupied by the proprietors, and were never let
for rent; but theſe houſes either are, or might be rented
as follows:
No. of
houfes.
6
2 31
I
12
24
13
No. of fa- Rent of each houſe.
milies.
IO
5
5
2
16
25
L. 10
8
оо о
7 10
98765 Ým
4.
о
Total Rent.
。 | L.60
о о
о о
18
O
о
24 O
7 10
72
120 о
20
52 O
24
60
3
O
72 0
ク
​17
2 IO
17 10
2
1
21
1
42
2 0
44 O
О
13
8
13
12
3∞ 32
26
I IO
19 10
13
I
5
10
Q
20
12
22
28
ΙΟ
10
31
342
31
Total 222 |
O 15
O IO
7
0 5 о
A warehouſe and a wharf, if rented, might
13
9 0 O
II O O
3 15
7 15 0
L. 561 0 0
I
O
6
give
2
Total rent,
Ε
15 0 0
L. 576 0
From
430
Statiſtical Account
From the high price of materials and work manfhip,
building is as dear here as in many other parts of the king-
dom. The beſt houſes, when rented, do not give above
3 per cent. of the coſt in building; fmall houſes give 5 or
6 per cent. It may be thought that traders of ſmall capi-
tals might employ their money to more advantage than in
building houſes which give fuch poor returns; neverthe-
lefs, thoſe who can afford it, rather chufe to build, and oc-
cupy a houſe of their own, than pay the moderate rent of
fuch a houſe. Small quays are raiſed to defend the houſes
next the fea, and fome houſes are erected on foundations
built in the ſea.
Farm Stocking.-The number of horfes in the following
lift will appear great, when compared to the number of
acres cultivated, and the quantity of grain raiſed. It is
the pride of the farmers to keep as many, and as good hor-
fes as they can afford, and therefore they give them a con-
fiderable part of the oat-crop. It is ufual at a marriage,
when returning from church, to try who can ride foremoſt
to the wedding houfe, and they are as keen in the race, and
perhaps as much elated with the victory, as thoſe of higher
rank are at Newmarket.
The following is an exact lift taken in July 1794, ex-
cept that the precife number of ſheep and fwine cannot be
afcertained:
Sandwick
parish.
Stromness
parith.
Village of Total.
Stromneſs.
Horſes,
518
340
1
858
Horned cattle,
лобо
665
70
1795
Sheep, (fuppofed),
IOCO
1000
100
2100
Swine, (fuppofed),
250
250
Ploughs,
123
104
Carts,
ΙΙ
12
Boats,
10
او
500
227
23
76
95
Horfes
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
431
Horfes fell at from L. 3 to L. 9, according to their age
and fize; but the value of the whole may be about L. 4
each. If it is defired to know the value of the ſtocking,
it may be ſtated as follows:
858 horfes, at L. 4 each, is
1795 horned cattle, at L. 1, 5 s. each, is
2100 sheep, young and old, at 3 s. each,
500 fwine, at 4 s. each,
Total value of live ftock,
L. 3432
O
2243 15 O
315
100 O
L. 6090 15
о
Price of Labour.-A ploughman receives from L.2, 10s.
to L. 3, 10 s. yearly, with board; a man fervant, for the
harveſt, from 12 s. to 20 s. with board; a female fervant,
for the harveft, from 8 s. to 12 s. with board; a female
fervant, from 12 s. to L. 1 yearly, with board; a maſon,
from I s. 3 d. to 2 s. per day, without board; a flater re-
ceives from 17s. to L. 1, 7s. per rood, according to the
fize of flates; a houſe-carpenter, from I s. to 1 s. 8 d. per
day, without board; a ſhip carpenter, from 1 s. 3 d. to 2 s.
per day, without board; a tailor is paid by the piece; day-
abourers receive 10 d. or 1 s. in fummer, and 8 d. in win-
ter, per day, without board.
Price of Grain and Provifions.-The price of grain va-
ries greatly. When the crop is good, the price falls very
low, as it is but feldom any is exported; and, when it is
exported, the lower ranks murmur. When the crop fails,
the price is high, occafioned by the additional expence of
freight and infurance upon what is imported. Oat-meal
varies from 1 s. 3 d. to 2 s. 6 d. per ſtone; malt from IIS.
to 17 s. per meel, of 11 ftone Dutch; beef fells at 14 d.
to 2 d. per lb. English weight; butter fells at from 4 d. to
6 d. per lb. Engliſh weight; a goofe fells at 1 s. or I s. 3 d.
poultry
[
432
Statiſtical Account
poultry fell at from 4 d. to 6 d. each; eggs fell at 1 d. or
2 d. per dozen; pork fells at 2 d. per lb. Mutton is
ufually fold by the quarter, or whole carcafe.
Population.—In the proceſs for augmentation of ftipend,
(1754), the miniſter of theſe pariſhes repreſented to the
Lords Commiffioners for the valuation of teinds, that theſe
pariſhes contained 2400 examinable perfons, and in
whole 3000 people; that of theſe there was in the village
of Stromneſs 1000. There are at prefent (1794) in the
village of Stromneſs 1344 fouls, and yet the whole popu-
lation is only about the fame as that ſtated in 1754; by
which it appears, that the population of the two country
pariſhes has decreaſed, in the fame proportion as that of
the village has increaſed. By an exact lift, taken in June
1794, the population is as follows:
No. of No. of Males. Females. Tot.males
houfes.
families
& females
Sandwick parish,
165
165
416
457
873
Stromneſs parish,
184
184
346
449
795
Vill. of Stromneſs,
222
342
493
851
1344
Total,
571
691
1255
1757
3012
Perfons to a family :
In the parish of Sandwick, nearly 5
In the parish of Stromnefs, nearly 4.
In the village of Stromnefs, nearly 4; or 3 to a family,
and 6 to a houſe.
Proportion of males to females:
Parish of Sandwick, nearly as 10 males to 11 females.
Pariſh of Stromneſs, nearly as 3 males to 4 females.
Village of Stromnefs, nearly as 12 males to 21 females.
The
of Sandwick and Stromness.
433
The great difproportion of males to females in the vil
lage of Stromneſs, is occafioned by the young men going
abroad to various parts of the world; to the Greenland
fishery, the coal-trade, Hudson's Bay, and many are to be
found in his Majefty's navy.
Baptifms and Marriages.-To evade the fees to feffion-
clerk and officer, and alfo the late tax upon regiſtration, or
through mere inattention, many parents neglect to have
their childrens names inferted in the parish-regiſter of
births. The number of burials cannot be afcertained, as
there are no dues to the feffion-clerk therefrom, and confe-
quently no regular account has been kept. The baptifms
and marriages recorded for 3 years are as follow:
Baptifms.
Marriages.
Females.
Males.
1791. Sandwick pariſh,
4
5
6
Ditto. Stromnefs parih & village,
17
30
1792 Sandwick parifh,
16
6
Ditto Stromnefs pariſh & village.
22
26
14
1793. Sandwick pariſh,
ΙΟ
8
2
Ditto. Stromneſs pariſh & village,
23
24
7
Total in both pariſhes for 3 years,
92
66
44
99
Total baptifms recorded,]
191
The average number of baptifms yearly recorded is 637
The average number of marriages yearly is 143. The
proportion of baptiſms recorded is, to the whole popula-
tion, nearly as 1 to 484. The proportion of marriages to
the whole population is as 1 to 210. The proportion of
males to females born is 14 males to 13 females.
VOL. XVI.
3 I
Population.
.
434
...
Statistical Account
Population and Statistical Table.
Sandwick |Stromnefs | Vill. of
TOTAL.
parish.
pariſh Stromnefs
Total population,
873
795
1344
3012
Males,
416
346
493
1255
Females,
457
449
851
1757
Married perfons,
232
238
404
874
Widowers,
15
II
II
37
Widows,
27
35
47
109
Male fervants,
45
41
86
Female fervants,
74
45
I 18
237
Seamen,
2
60
62
Ship-carpenters,
18
18
Shop-keepers,
I
25
26
Weavers,
7
II
15
33
Tailors,
Shoemakers,
2
7
Joiners,
Maſons,
Coopers,
Blackſmiths,
Flax-dreffers,
I
I
3754
II
16
13
27
8
14
13
15
7
7
2
15
17
3
3
boatmen,
| | | | | | |
5
22
27
2
2
2
2
3
3
6
6
I
I
I
Day-labourers,
Writers,
Customhouſe ſurveyors.
tide waiters,
Surgeons,
Clergyman, eſtabliſhed,
Manufactures.-Coarfe woollen cloths and ſtuffs are made
for houſehold-ufe, but in no great quantity. Linen is alſo
made for wearing apparel. The principal manufactures.
carried on here, are knitting ſtockings, and ſpinning linen
yarn. In the first of theſe they greatly excel, and from
conilant practice, make the ſtockings very ſmooth and gloſſy.
Young girls of 10 or 12 years of age can knit well. A great
part of thefe stockings is fold to failors at 1 s. 6 d. to 5 s.
a pair. They have been made fo fine as to fell for 10 s. or
15 s. a pair.
Kelp.
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
435
Kelp. As the west coast of thefe parishes is high and
rocky, the quantity of kelp made is not confiderable. The
fea-weed on the fores is cut and burnt only once in two
or three years. No kelp is made from the fea-ware that
is driven afhore from the ocean. About 150 tons may be
made once in three years; that is, at an average, 50 tons
yearly; of which about 8 tons are made in the parish of
Sandwick, and about 42 tons yearly in the parish of Strom-
nefs.
Fisheries.-The fish caught here are cod, ling, ſkate,
holybut, haddocks, lobſters, &c. Cod and ling are caught
about a league's diſtance from the weſt coaſt of theſe pa-
riſhes. Three boats only are employed in this fiſhing in
the parish of Sandwick, and as many in the parish of
Stromnefs. The outfit and expence on this fishing, and
the returns in good feafons, are as follow:
A boat cofts
A great line of 1000 fathoms, and 20 fcore of
hooks,
A fmall line of 300 hooks,
L. 7 0 0
4
IO O
L. 12
o o
Total expence of outfit,
Returns.
From 300 to 500 ling, fay 400 ling, at is.
Cod, and other ſmall fish caught, worth
is.
L. 20
Lo 200
Total returns from one boat,
Yearly expence.
4.barrels falt, if duty paid, is
Tear and wear of boat and lines,
Salting and curing the fish,
Spirits and victuals to fiſhermen,
Nett yearly profits to be divided,
12 O о
L. 32
L. 4 0 0
3 0
2 O
I 10
ΙΟ
10 IO O
L. 21 10
о
The
436
Statistical Account
The above L. 21, 10s. is to be divided among the crew
if they are themſelves the owners of the boat and lines.
If they fish for an employer, who is owner of the boat and
lines, as is generally the cafe, then the crew fhares L. 14,
6 s. 8 d. and the employer L. 73: 4, when the fish are
cured with duty-paid falt. If the fish are cured with bond-
ed falt, there is an additional profit of L. 1, 12 s. This fish-
ing may be more profitable than has been ſtated, in the pa
rish of Sandwick, but is feldom even fo profitable in the
parish of Stromneſs.
Lobſters.-A couple of boats in the parish of Stromnefs
are employed in catching lobſters, which are fold to the
fmacks, who carry them to London.
Seals. It was ufual for a floop to go once a-year, about
Martinmas, to the fmall ifle or rock of Soulfkerry, which
lies W. N. W. about 10 leagues diftant, and there kill
feals, which refort to that rock in great numbers. The
furge is fo great around that rock, that it often happened
they could not effect a landing; or, if the men were landed,
they, and the feals, which they killed, could not be got off
but with difficulty, and confiderable risk. In November
1786, a floop upon this adventure, from the village of
Stromneſs, was driven by tempeftuous weather to the
North Faro Ifles, and there wrecked with 22 men aboard,
3 of whom were faved, and 19 perished. Since that fatal
accident, this perilous fiſhing has been abandoned.
Sillock Fishing.-The moſt beneficial, and moft generally
uſeful fishing, is that of the fillocks, a ſmall grey fiſh, which
are caught in great numbers, from September to March, in
the harbour of Stromneſs, to which they ufually refort for
food and ſhelter. This is a fifh of a ſweet and pleaſant
tafte
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
437
:
taſte, and yields a confiderable quantity of oil. From 50
to 100 men and boys may be ſeen catching them in good
weather, either with bait or fly, in boats, or along the
quays, in the harbour of Stromneſs.
Village of Stromnefs.-This village, fituated on the weſt
fide of the harbour, near the fouthmost extremity or nefs
of this pariſh, from whence it derives its name, was, in the
beginning of the prefent century, very inconfiderable, con-
fifting only of half a dozen houfes with flated roofs, and
a few ſcattered huts, the firſt inhabited by two gentlemen
of landed property, and two or three fmall traders; the
laſt by a few fiſhermen and mechanics. Two fmall veffels,
of
Thefe
30 tons each, were all that then belonged to it.
were employed in catching cod and ling at Barra, and
made ufually once a year a voyage to Leith or Norway.
In 1719, this village was affeffed by the borough of
Kirkwall, in the payment of cefs or ftent, in terms of the
12th act of King William and Queen Mary, ift Parlia-
ment 1690, by which act it is declared, That the exporting
or importing of native or foreign commodities belongs only
to freemen, inhabitants of royal boroughs, excepting the
articles of corn, cattle, minerals, coal, falt, lime, and ftone.
By this act the boroughs were not authoriſed to admit the
traders in villages to a participation of trade. This defect
of the law, as it then flood, was remedied by the 36th act
of King William and Queen Mary, 1ft Parliament 1693;
by which act it was declared, "That the benefit of trade
"allowed to royal boroughs, might be communicated in
"favours of burghs of regality, barony, and others, on their
relieving the royal boroughs of a proportion of the tax
"laid on them." By the articles of Union, 7th a& of
Queen Anne, article 21. of Parliament 1. 1707, it was de-
clared, “That the rights of royal boroughs ſhould remain
I
" entire,
}
438
Statiſtical Account
?
"entire, as they then were, after the Union, and notwith-
"ſtanding thereof." Upon thefe acts the borough of Kirk-
wall claimed right to exact, from the village of Stromnefs,
a proportionable fhare of the cefs and burdens, which, by
the tax-roll that borough was liable to pay; and that,
upon payment of fuch proportion, the borough of Kirkwall
would admit the inhabitants of the village of Stromnefs to
a communication of trade, which was accordingly complied
with, and was continued from 1719 to 25th May 1743,
when the inhabitants of the village of Stromnefs refuſed to
pay the ceſs or ſtent to the borough of Kirkwall, alleging,
that the fum laid on them was more than their proportion,
and more than their trade could bear; and, befides, that it
was partially laid on the feveral traders of this village, and
not in due proportion to the extent of their trade. The
magiftrates of Kirkwall ftated to the Honourable the Con-
vention of Royal Boroughs, that, by the tax-roll, they were
liable in payment of ceſs and ſtent, (Scots) L. 687 o
That miffive dues, fitting of eques, and collectors
falaries, amounted to
263 0 0
}
L. 950
That they only exacted from the village of Stromnefs one
third part of this; and that in time paft all they had re..
ceived was,
From the village of Stromnefs,
From the traders in other parts,
L. 204
Ο
154 0 0
L. 358 0
So that there ftill remained a burden on the borough of
Kirkwall of L. 592 Scots.
The inhabitants of the village of Stromneſs ſtated, on
the other fide, to the Convention in 1751, that the trade
of
:
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
339
7
of this village was fmall, and, as it depended on the reſort
of ſhipping, it was uncertain: That the borough of Kirk-
wall enjoyed great advantages from its right to vote for a
member of Parliament; from being the feat of Juſtice :
That the revenues of the borough were great, from their
burgage-holdings, cefs of houſes, fiars, markets, and cu-
ftoms; and, therefore, one fixth part of the whole burdens,
inſtead of one third part demanded, would be found a full
and equal proportion for the village of Stromneſs; which
fixth part of the whole they were willing to pay. This
offer was rejected. The matter was brought before the
Court of Seffion; and on the 17th February 1754, a deci-
fion was obtained, declaring," There was no fufficient right
"in the borough of Kirkwall to affefs the village of Strom-
"nefs, but that the faid village fhould be quit thereof, and
“free therefrom, in all time coming." From this deci-
fion the magiftrates of Kirkwall appealed to the High
Court of Parliament, and this caufe was heard at the bar
of the Houſe of Lords, the 16th January 1758, when the
decifion of the Court of Seffion was affirmed. By this deci
fion the village of Stromneſs, and all the villages through-
out Scotland, became free and independent of the Royal
Boroughs. Before this proceſs, the trade of this village
was greatly cramped by its dependence on the borough of
Kirkwall, as well as during the procefs, by the expences in
fupporting it; which expence hurt the circumſtances of
many of the ſmall traders; and one of thoſe who firſt ſug-
geſted it, and was moſt active in promoting it, (Alexander
Graham), was thereby rendered unable to carry on trade,
whofe widow is ftill alive, and in reduced circumftances.
The prefent Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, (then
Mr Wedderburn), was counſel for the inhabitants of this
village, at the bar of the Houfe of Peers.
Since
440
Statistical Account
1.
Since this ftruggle for independence, the trade of the
village has greatly increaſed, which is in a great meaſure
owing to the reſort of ſhipping to this place.
While the American Colonies were connected with,
and dependent upon Britain, ſeveral American veffels came
here, and entered their cargoes at the fight of the officers of
the cuſtomhouſe of Kirkwall, preferring this place even.
to Cowes, in the Iſle of Wight. The advantages reſulting
herefrom to this village, induced fome mercantile people
at the borough of Kirkwall to attempt bringing theſe veſ
fels there; and, in order to effect this, they reprefented the i
harbour of Stromneſs as a ſmall creek, to which the port
of Kirkwall was preferable.
The American goods were unloaded, and weighed aboard
an old and large diſmaſted veffel, which lay in the harbour
of Stromnefs for this purpoſe. This diſmaſted veffel or
hulk was brought to the harbour of Kirkwall, with a view
to bring the American veffels there; but this did not fuc-
ceed, as they then preferred going to Cowes, in the Iſle of
Wight, and entering at the cuſtomhouſe there, on their
way to Holland and the Eaft countries.
The
of Sandwick and Stromneſs:
441
The number of veffels, with the quantity of rice entered for three years, the duty paid,
and drawback upon exportation, with the amount of the remaining duties, was:
VOL. XVI.
Year when entered.
No. of Quantity of rice
veffels. entered.
Full duty thereof.
Drawback on ex- Remaining duties.
portation.
Cwt.
gr. lb.
L.
S. d.
L. s.
d.
L.
s. d.
From Oct. 10. 1757 to
Oct. 10. 1758.
9
18,254 1 19
5826 5 0
5231 60
594 18 111
From Oct. 1758 to ↑
Oct. 1759.
7
21,329 0 20
6801 8 72
6130 17 63
670 II I
From Oct. 1759, to
Oct. 1760.
3
4871 o 26
1554 14 11
1400 9 94
154 5 14
19
44,454 39 14,182 8 62 12,762 13 4
41
1419 15 24/
در
K
From
442
[Statistical Account
1
From this abftract, taken from the customhouſe-books,.
it appears, there were 19 veffels entered in three years,
whofe cargoes confifted of 44,454 cwt. 3 qrs. 9 lb. rice;
the duty on which, if not exported, would have been.
L. 14,182 863; but, as the whole was exported, the
drawback on exportation reduced this duty to L. 1419,
15 s. 24d.
Since the independence of America, all hopes of the
produce of the Southern States of North America paffing.
this way are loft. The produce, however, of our fettle-
ments at Hudfon's Bay ftill pass this way.
Hudfon's Bay Company's Ships.-Hudfon's Bay was dif
covered by Henry Hudfon, in 1610. France, after difpu
ting the right to it, finally ceded it to Britain, at the treaty
of Utrecht. Since 1670, the trade to that country has
been carried on by a Company, who have an exclufive
charter. The capital of this Company, originally
L. 10,565: 12: 6, has been increaſed to L. 104,146, 17S.
6 d. This Company fits out three fhips, from 150 to 400.
tons each, which carry out provifions, guns, powder, fhot,
hatchets, cloths, &c. to be exchanged with the Indians for
beaver, and other furs. Thefe veffels ufually arrive at the
harbour of Stromnefs about the firft of June, where they
ftop for two or three weeks to take aboard men for their
fettlements. They engage ufually from 60 to 100 men,
natives of this country, to go to thefe fettlements, every
year. They have about 400 or 500 men in theſe ſettle-
ments, of whom it is prefumed three-fourths are Orkneſe,
as they find them more fober and tractable than the Iriſh,
and they engage for lower wages than either the English
or Irish. The yearly wages they give is, houfe-carpenters,
from L. 20 to L. 36; blackfmiths, from L. 20 to L. 30;.
failors, from L. 18 to L. 25; boat-builders, from L. 20 to
L. 30
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
443
L. 30; bricklayers or mafons, from L. 20 to L. 25; tailors,
from L. 10 to L. 15; labourers, from L. 6 to L. 18. The
Company raiſes the wages of theſe men in proportion to
the time they remain in their fervice, becauſe the longer
they are, the better they are acquainted with the buſineſs,
and confequently more ufeful.
The Company's fhips ufually return to the harbour of
Stromneſs about November, to land thoſe men who chooſe
to return home. The returns to the Company by theſe
fhips, from all their fettlements, is ufually from 80,000 to
100,000 beaver ſkins, or other furs equal in value to this
number of beaver; for all other furs are computed by
their relative value to the beaver, as are alfo the goods
fent out from Britain; and confequently the Company's
accounts with their factors in theſe fettlements are kept in
beaver, as ours are in pounds Sterling.
It has been faid by a great writer, (Abbé Raynal), that
the murmurs of the nation have been excited againſt this
Company, both on account of their monopoly, and alſo on
account of the great profits they make; which might in-
deed have been great fome time ago, when their trade was
more extenſive, and not checked by the interference of the
Canadian traders, and when the expence of fupporting
their extenfive fettlements was lefs: but, of late years, it
is afferted, that they do not divide above 6 or 8 per cent.
which is no more than the Eaſt India Company, and other
trading companies in Britain, have divided.
If the murmurs of the nation have been excited, becauſe
of the monopoly which this Company enjoys; ſo alſo, of
late years, there have been great complaints in this coun-
ty, both on account of the ſmall wages given to the labour-
ers, and the great number of them engaged, while the far-
mers are left without fervants. The conftant drain of
men from this county to the Greenland and Iceland fish-
eries,
444
Statistical Account
eries, the coal-trade, and his Majefty's navy, together with
200 fencibles raiſed, has tended to fofter theſe complaints,
which are principally directed againſt the Hudson's Bay
Company, becauſe they make a yearly demand, and at
once, and therefore the more perceptible. We cannot
complain that our men are called away to fight our wars;
this we can only regret, and that the fituation of things
makes it neceffary, occafioned by the turbulence of a neigh-
bouring nation.
-Tot bella per orbem
Tam multæ fcelerum facies; non ullus aratro
Dignus honos; fquallent abductis arva colonis,
Et curvæ rigidum falces conflantur in enſem *.
:
In time paſt, when there was not fuch a demand for
men from other quarters, the number neceffary for Hud-
fon's Bay might well have been ſpared from this county;
and although it is no doubt better for a country to keep its
natives at home, provided they can be uſefully employed,
either in agriculture or manufactures, yet where there are
not manufactures, or improvements in agriculture, thus to
employ them, it is then better to hire them to thoſe who
can uſefully employ them; and alſo better, that they go to
hunt the harmleſs and civilized beaver, than, like the Swiss,
to fight the wars of other nations for hire. As to theſe
men being idle and ufelefs to their own country when they
return, it may be obferved, that feveral of them are per-
haps ſo before they go there, and that this is what often
induces them to go.
Notwithſtanding that thoſe who are againſt this emigra-
tion, repreſent to thoſe who go, ift, The dangers to be en-
countered from mountains of ice in going there; 2dly, The
feverity
Virg. Georg. lib. i. lin. 505
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
445
&
}
唱
​feverity of the climate, and the danger of being froſt bit;
3dly, The hazard of being cut off by the Indians; yet all
this does not deter them from going. But even allowing
that all theſe dangers are exaggerated, as they perhaps are,
fince few are froſt bit except through their own inattention,
or cut off by the Indians except when it is occafioned by
their own imprudence; yet ftill their folitary fituation.
there, might ſeem of itſelf ſufficient to weigh againſt all
the pecuniary advantages they can hope to reap in the
Company's fervice; fince they are cut off from family and
friends, and from all focial intercourfe but with the natives,
where
"immerfed in furs
"Lie the grofs race. Nor ſprightly jeſt, nor fong,
"Nor tenderneſs, they know; nor aught of life,
Beyond the kindred bears that talk without*"
Notwithſtanding this, too, yet from a reftleffneſs of difpofi-
tion, a defire of change, and fmall as the wages are, yet as they
are better than the farmers here can afford to give, the Com-
pany always procure a fufficient number of men to go to
that bleak climate. For their fuccefs in procuring theſe
men, they are perhaps indebted to their agent at the vil-
lage of Stromneſs, who is a man well qualified for bufinefs,
and attentive to the interefts of the Company. This agent
pays away yearly for the Company from L. 2000 to
L. 3000 Sterling, which no doubt greatly tends to quicken
the little trade of this place.
Some veffels from Newcaſtle, Whitby, and Hull, on the
whale-fishery, for Straits St Davis and Greenland, ftop
fome days at the harbour of Stromnefs, on their outward
paffage,
*Thomfon's Seafons, Winter, line 701.
446
Statiſtical Account
1
paffage, to engage men.-A lift of the number of veffels
that have ſtopped at the harbour of Stromneſs for four
years, is fubjoined, as tending to give the jufteft idea of the
importance of this fafe harbour.
This lift is taken from
the furveyor's books.
1789. 1790.
1791.
1792:
Total.
English,
105
72
96
87
360
Scotch,
214
121
203
214
752
Irish,
7
13
19
17
Dutch,
2
O
Swedes,
5
Danes,
Pruffians, - 3
Dantzickers,
Americans,
9
0 2 2
5
9
56
2
19
II
5
27
I
3
9
I
3
4
I
9
I
2
3
In 1789,
346
In 1790,
213
In 1791,
340
In 1792,
338
Total, 1237
From the above lift it appears, that the average number of
veffels which paſs this way in a year, is 3124. Before the
peace in 1763, 450 or 500 veffels have paffed this way in
a year.
The reaſon why the number paffing now is not
fo great as formerly, is, that many now go through Pent-
land Frith, who formerly uſed to paſs by Stromnefs, as
they have now become better acquainted with that frith.
And as a light-houſe is now erected on the Pentland Skir-
ries in that frith, it may be preſumed that ftill a greater
number will paſs that way, and a lefs number by Strom-
nefs.
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
447
uefs. It has been ſuggeſted, that for the ſafety of the trade
paffing by Stromnefs, it might be neceffary to erect a fort
at the entrance of the harbour, fince the the French priva-
teers, in time of war, have entered Hoy Sound, and have
been within two miles of the harbour. But from the above
lift it will appear, that the number of veffels paffing this
way is not fo great as has been fuppofed. A frigate fta-
tioned here, it is probable, would be of more effential fer-
vice, both in defending the harbour, and in fcouring the
coaſt.
Shipping built at, and belonging to Stromnefs.-Several
fmall veffels, from 30 to 90 tons, have been built here.
There are at preſent (1794) 2 brigs and 4 floops belonging
to the village of Stromneſs, in all about 500 tons. Two
of theſe floops are ufually employed in the herring-fishing.
Thefe veffels go abroad in queft of freights, as the trade
of this place cannot give them employment, as will be
feen from the following ftatement of exports and imports.
Exports and Imports.-As there is no manufacture here
but that of ſtockings and linen yarn, nor any foreign trade,
the exports and imports will appear very inconfiderable,
when compared with places of greater trade. In this com-
mercial age a detail of them may be required and read;
leaving it at the option of the editor to infert, and of the
reader to peruſe it. The articles of export and import are
fubjoined in detail, upon the best information *.
* Exports in 1792.
Linen yarn, 8500 fpindles, at 2 s. 3 d. the ſpindle,
Beef (falted), 240 barrels, at L. 1, 10 s. the barrel,
Imports
L. 956 5 a
360 0
Hides (falted), 390, at 28 lb. each, is 10,920 lb. at 4 d. the lb. 182 O
Feathers, 4424 lb, at I s. 2 d. the lb.
258 1 4
î
Carried forward, L. 1756 6
448
Statiſtical Account
Imports in 1792,
:
Exports in 1792,
L. 4198 1
2371 15
15 8
Balance of trade againſt Stromnefs,
L. 1826 5
5 4
In
Rabbit ſkins, 36,000, at 8 d. each,
Linen, 2000 yards, at I s. each yard,
Brought forward, L. 1756 6
Stockings, 1440 pair, from 1 s. to 5 s. the pair, ſay at an ave-
120 O
100 O
rage I s. 6 d. the pair,
Calf-ſkins, 1200, at I s. each,
Fiſh, 1000 ling, at I s. each,
Butter (greafe), 11 barrels, at L. 3, 12 s. the barrel,
Pork (falted), 16 barrels, at L. 1, 15 s. the barrel,
Pens, 100,000, at 5 s. 6 d. the thouſand,
108
50
。8
60 0
39 12
28 0
27 10
25
4
Tallow, 12 cwt. at L. 2, 2 s. the cwt.
Pork hams, 160, at 2 s each,
Geeſe (falted), 10 barrels, at L. 1: 13: 4 the barrel,
Geefe (fmoaked), 240, at 1 s. each,
Neats tongues, 240, at 8 d. each,
16 o @
16 13 4
12
8 0
Seal ſkins, 36, at 2 s. 6 d. each,
4 10 Q
Total exports,
L. 2371 15 8
N. B. No kelp is ſtated, becauſe it is not annually made; and when
burnt, the greater part belongs to heriters not refident here.
Imports in 1792.
Bale goods, cloths, muflins, &c. from Glaſgow,
Groceries, and fundry ſmall merchandiſe,
Tow, 600-matts, at 15 s. the matt,`
Flax, 6 tons, at L. 37 the ton,
Wool, 516 ftones, at 12 s. the ſtone,
Timber and ſtaves,
Leather, 2100 lb. at 1 s. 6 d. the lb.
Salt, 170 barrels, at 12 s. the barrel,
L. 1000 0 0
600
450 O
222 O
309 12
150 0
157 10
102
O
Meal, 200 bolls, at 12 s. the boll,
Tea, 10 boxes of 86 lb. each, i 860 lb. at 3s. 2 d. the lb.
Sugar refined, 10 cwt. at L. 6 the cwt.
120 O
136 3
60 о
4
Carried forward, L. 3307 5 4
of Sandwick and Stromness.
449
In bad feaſons, when the crop fails, the balance of trade
will be much more againſt this place, as there has been
grain imported to the amount of from L. 500 to L. 1500
in fuch years.
The fources from whence this deficiency is made up are
theſe; remittances from feamen in his Majefty's navy;
freights of veffels belonging to this place in the carrying
trade
Brought forward, L. 3307 5
Sugar unrefined, 10 cwt. at L. 4, 4 s. the cwt.
Snuff, 6 cwt. at L. 12 the cwt.
Hops, 15 cwt. at L. 5 the cwt.
Soap, 50 cwt. at L. 2, 13 s. the cwt.
Bark for tanning, 10 ton, at L. 6 the ton,
•
Whiſky, 6 hhds. at L. 9 the hhd.
Wine bottles, 40 dozen, at L. 1 the dozen,
Biſcuit, 64 cwt. at 15 s. the cwt.
Porter, 12 hhds. at L. 2, 17 s. the hhd.
Hats, 100, from 2 s. to 15 s. each, ſay 7 s. cach,
Molaffes, 20 cwt. at L. 1, 8 s. the cwt.
Crown and cryftal glaſs and bottles,
Tar, 24 barrels, at 15 s. the barrel,
Paper, 30 reams, at 10 s. the ream,
Coals, 30 tons, at 10 s. the ton,
Flour, 20 cwt. at 16 s. the cwt.
Barley, 20 cwt. at II s. the cwt.
Pots, 20 cwt. at 14 s. the cwt.
Tron, 24 cwt. at L. 16 the ton,
•
4
42
O
72
D
75
о
132 10
о
60
о
54
40
о
48
34 4
35
28 O
24
4
18
о
15
O
15
О
16
о
II
14
о
19 4
O
16
Nails, 10 cwt. at L. 1, 12 s, the cwt.
Cards for wool and tow, 24 doz. at 15 s. the doz.
Hemp dreffed, 500 lb. at 7 d. the lb.
Earthen ware, 12 crates, at L. 1 the crate,
Cart-wheels, 6 pair, at L. 2, 2 s. the pair,
18 о
14 II
8
1 2
о
12 12
0
II о
Tobacco, I cwt.
Powder and fhot, 6 cwt. of both,
Fiſhing lines, and fundry other ſmall articles,
Total imports,
VOL. XVI.
13 10
40
о
L. 498 I
3 L
O
450
Statistical Account
trade abroad; money received from ſhipping for freth pro-
vifions, or ſpent by feamen in the public inns; remittances
from thoſe in the fervice of the Hudson's Bay Company.
Theſe fources are more than fufficient to balance the a-
mount of imports, as appears evident, fince the ſtyle of li-
ving has been greatly increaſing for fome years paft; new
houſes have been built every year; the trading people
have purchaſed lands when they came into the market for
fale; and there have been only two or three bankruptcies
among them for 30 years paft; and prior to that period, they
were ſtill more rare, and almoft unheard of; fo that, if what
great writer (Lord Kames) obferves be true, that the num-
ber of bankruptcies prove the increafe of trade, then the
trade of this village has been, and ſtill is low.
As the whole exports and imports amount only to
L.6569: 16: 8, if we were to ſuppoſe a nett profit on the
whole of 20 per cent. this would only be L. 1313: 19: 3,
which, if divided among 26 fhopkeepers, would be L. 50,
10 s. 84 d. to each. This would appear a fum fmall enough
for the ſupport of a family; nevertheleſs, by œconomy
and ſtrict attention to their affairs, the greater part of them
increaſe their capitals, build houſes, purchaſe lands, and in
a courſe of 30 years, are in circumstances to retire from
bufinefs, having realifed L. 1000 or L. 2000, upon the in-
tereſt, or returns of which, they live comfortably, and with
which they are as well fatisfied, as the great merchants in
more opulent places when they have acquired a plumb of
L. 100,000.
Multa petentibus
Defunt multa. Bene eft, cui Deus obtulit
Parca, quod fatis eft, manu *.
Hor. lib. 3, ode 16.
Retailers
of Sandwick and Stromness.
ཕ
45 I
1
Retailers of Ale and Spirits.-As the excife of this county
is compounded, many of the farmers brew ale for fale du-
ring winter, ſo that the number of occafional retailers can-
not be precifely afcertained; and although a great deal of
grain is confumed in this way, and there are complaints
againſt it, yet it may be prefumed, that it is neither ſo per-
nicious to the health, the morals, or the circumſtances of
the people as drinking ſpirits, which prevails in other coun-
tries among the lower claffes, and at all feaſons of the
year; whereas this practice of brewing ale prevails among
the farmers here only during winter, or the firſt of ſpring.
Nor is it here the fottiſh enjoyment of drinking alone
they often have mufic and dancing at theſe meetings;
and, ſhook to notes
Of native mufic, the refpondent dance.
Thus jocund fleets with them the winter night*.
The regular and conſtant retailers of ale and ſpirits are:
Retailers of ale, 23 in the village of Stromneſs; retailers
of fpirits, 3 in Sandwich parish, 3 in Stromneſs pariſlı, and
7 in the village of Stromnefs.
S
Church, Patron, Stipend.-There is a church in each of
thefe parishes. The parish church of Stromnefs formerly
ſtood a mile diftant from where the village is fituated
at prefent, the parish-church ftands in the village of Strom-
nefs, and the old pariſh-church is ruinous. The preſent
church was built in 1717, and is not large enough to ac-
commodate the people of the parish and village, as the in-
habitants of the village have increaſed greatly fince that
time. The church of Sandwick was rebuilt in 1670, by
Andrew Honyman, Biſhop of Orkney; and again rebuilt
in
Thomfon's Scafons, Winter, line 531.
452.
Statistical Account
in 1767. It was dedicated to St Peter, as was alſo the old
parish-church of Stromnefs, now ruinous. The minifter
preaches at each of the two pariſh-churches alternately.
The right of preſentation, formerly in the bishop, paffed
to the Crown, upon the abolition of Epiſcopacy, along with
the bishoprick lands; and is now veſted in, and exerciſed
by the Right Honourable Lord Dundas of Afke, who
holds the bishoprick lands in leafe from the Exchequer.
The ftipend, by decreet of the Court of Seffion in 1753,
is 96 meels of malt, L. 15 money, (in lieu of 6 barrels
butter), L. 10 money, (in lieu of vicarages), and L. 3, 6 s.
8 d. for communion-elements. It is troublefome to collect
this ftipend, as it is paid by nearly 100 heritors. When
it is regularly paid, and malt fells at 10 s. per meel, it is
worth L. 76: 6: 8, including the money allowed for com-
munion-elements. The village of Stromnefs pays no part-
of ſtipend, although the population of that village is not
far fhort of that of both the country parishes.
There is a glebe in each of thefe parishes, and both may
be worth about L. 9 Sterling yearly rent. The minifter
of theſe pariſhes formerly refided in the parish of Sandwick
until the year 1780, when a new manfe was built in the
parish of Stromnefs, about a mile from the village.
Lift of Minifters of thefe Parishes.-Mr John Nisbet, ad-
mitted 1715, died 1746, was 31 years minifter; Mr James
Tyrie, admitted May 1747, died 1778, was 31 years mini-
fter; Mr John Falconer, admitted 1779, died 1792, was
13 years miniſter; Mr William Clouſton, admitted 1794.
Schools.-There is no parochial ſchool in either of theſe
pariſhes. The Society for propagating Chriftian Know-
ledge gives L. 8 yearly to a fchoolmafter, and L. 3 yearly
to a ſchool-miſtreſs, both in the village of Stromneſs. The
fohool-
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
45.3
fchool-fees are, from 6d. to 1 s. quarterly, for teaching to
read and write; and 1 s. 6 d. or 2 s. for writing and arith-
metic. The ſchools are,
In the village of Stromnefs, one grammar-fchool, where
Latin is taught. Four fchools, where the fchoolmasters
teach reading, writing, and arithmetic. Three fchools, in
which ſchool-miftreffes teach reading, knitting ſtockings,
and fewing white ſeam.
In the parish of Sandwick, one ſchool, in which a ſchool-
miſtreſs teaches to read.
There are uſually from 200 to 350 ſcholars at all theſe
fchools.
Poor.-There are about 50 poor perfons in the parish
and village of Stromneſs, and 12 poor perfons in the pariſh
of Sandwick, to whom the feffions give money twice or
thrice a-year. The funds for their fupport are, from col-
lections received at church on Sabbath, and on occafion of
adminiſtering the facrament of the Lord's Supper, dues of
pall or mortcloth, and fines; all which, in the parish of
L. 4 10
Sandwick, may amount yearly to about
Deduct falary to feffion-clerk and officer,
Remains for fupport of poor in Sandwick,
Ι ΙΟ a
L. 3 0 0
The facrament of the Lords fupper is rarely adminiſtered
at the church of Sandwick, by reafon of its great diſtance
from the place of the minifter's prefent refidence, and, by
confequence, the collections at facramental occafions add to
the funds for fupporting the poor in the village and pariſh
of Stromnefs, which for 3 years were,
1
Ia
454
Statistical Account
}
1
Sunday's collections,
Sacrament. collect.
In 1787.
In 1788.
In 1789.
L.
S. d.
L.
S. d.
L. S.
d.
5 16
24
6 16 34
3 13 01
4 10
4 13
6
4 19 1
I 9
6
I O
2 10
O
2 I
оо
10 о
о
12 15 8 13 19 9 30 13
9430
I
1 1
L. 47
8
7
15 16
2
10 о
Mortcloth dues,
Fines,
Total,
Total funds for three years,
Yearly average is,
Deduct yearly falary to feffion-clerk and officer, 4
Remains to be divided among the poor
yearly,
L. 11 6 21
Fuel.-As there are no peat-moffes in the parish of Sand-
wick, the inhabitants of that parish bring their peats from
the moffes of the neighbouring parish of Harray, diſtant
5 or 6 miles. This employs them and their horſes the
greater part of the fummer, when, otherwife, they might
be employed in cleaning their lands, and preparing manure,
fo that this diſtance from fuel is confequently a great bar
to improvement, either in the way of incloſing, fallowing,
or raifing green crops. The fmall moffes in the parish of
Stromneſs at prefent fupply the pariſh; but it is probable
that, in 30 or 40 years hence, theſe moffes will either be
exhauſted, or covered with water, fo as to be inacceffible.
The inhabitants of the village of Stromnefs cut part of
their peats in the parifh-moffes; but the greater part of
this village is fupplied with peats brought by ſea from other
parishes, the diftance of 5 or 6 miles. The duty being
now taken off coals, the inhabitants of this village will pro-
bably uſe peats for their kitchen-fires, and coals for other
fires.
Roads.
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
455
Roads. There are no made roads through theſe pariſhes
but one of two miles in length, which leads from the vil
lage of Stromnefs towards the road that leads to the bo-
rough of Kirkwall. The roads through the parish of Sand-
wick are naturally good, as the ground is dry. The roads
through the parish of Stromneſs are, for the moſt part, bad
in winter, as the grounds are wet. In one or two places
the roads are ſcarcely paffable on horfeback; and although
the inhabitants of two or three pariſhes muſt paſs by theſe
bad roads, in carrying the produce of their farms to fale at
the village of Stromnefs, yet it has never been attempted
to make theſe roads better; although this might be done
at no great expence of labour.
Bridges.-There is only one bridge, and that in the pa-
rish of Stromneſs, at the entrance to the loch of Stenneſs,
where it communicates with the fea. This bridge may be
about 100 or 150 yards; it has no arches, but instead of
thefe, logs of wood are laid acroſs 3 or 4 openings, through
which the ſea paffes. It is thought by fome, that if the
ground was cleared, a falmon-fishery might be here eſta-
bliſhed.
Millftones.-There is a millstone quarry on the weft
coaſt of the parish of Sandwick, out of which about 10
millſtones are wrought annually, at the price of 2 s. for
each inch that the ftone is thick in the eye. From this
quarry moſt of the mills in the county are ſupplied.
Slates.-There is a flate-quarry in the fouth-weſt extre-
mity of the parish of Stromneſs, from which from 30,000
to 40,000 flates are annually fold. They are ftrong, thick,
and large, laſt long, and are the beſt in this county. They
might be wrought in greater quantity were labourers to be
got.
$
456
Statistical Account
got. They are better adapted to this climate than Eaſdale
lates; and yet, becauſe theſe laſt have a preferable appear-
ance, they are more uſed at the village of Stromneſs, not-
withſtanding that the pariſh flates are cheaper, can be
brought by water, and confequently not dear in carriage.
Limestone.-There is plenty of limeſtone in theſe pariſhes,
but through the ſcarcity of fuel wherewith to burn it, and
of hands whereby to work it, there is no lime made in the
parish of Stromneſs, and but an inconfiderable quantity in
the parish of Sandwick, by the principal heritor there.
Freestone.-Freeftone has been lately found in the parifn
of Sandwick, but it is hard, and not of good quality.
Minerals.-There are appearances of lead and iron ore
in the parish of Stromnefs. The lead-ore in the clefts of
the rocks has the appearance of melted lead. In 1755,
miners from England wrought the lead-mines, and fent
away a confiderable quantity of the ore; but, either the
ore was not rich enough to repay the expences, or the vein
was ſmall and foon exhauſted, or the work was unſkilfully
carried on, and too expenfively managed; for one or other
of theſe reaſons it was abandoned. A few years afterwards
the attempt was again made to open the lead-mines in an-
other part of this pariſh, which alſo failed.
Mineral Springs.-There are fome mineral ſprings in
theſe pariſhes. There is one in the vicinity of the village
of Stromneſs, which has been tried for ſcorbutic complaints,
and has fometimes proved fuccefsful.
Birds.-The birds, both domeſtic and migratory, are ſuch
as are common to other parts of this county. About 80
years
I
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
457
years ago, moorfowl frequented fome of the hills, and were
fhot within a mile of the village of Stromnefs; but now
there is no heath there, nor are moorfowl to be found in
either of theſe parishes.
Plants.-There are no plants here but fuch as are com-
mon in this county, and have been repeatedly defcribed.
The ſcurvy-grafs abounds in many places, and grows on
the roofs, and along the walls of old houfes in the village
of Stromnefs. Small black, or whortle berries, probably
fimilar to the vaccinia nigra of Virgil, but of inferior qua-
lity, were formerly found on the hills in the vicinity of
the village of Stromneſs; but none grow there now, and
they are rarely to be met with on any of the hills of thefe
pariſhes.
Molucca Beans.-Thefe have fometimes, but rarely, .
been found along the fea-coafts of thefe parishes.
Claik Geefe, Barnacles.-Thefe have been found flicking
to pieces of timber, as deſcribed by Wallace in his defcrip-
tion of Orkney, and alſo by Sir Robert Sibbald, in his Na-
tural Hiftory of Scotland, book 3. part 2. chap. 12. under
the article Concha Anatifera. A late author afferts, that
the barnacles lay their eggs, and leaving them at the mer-
of the waves, they ſtick to what they happen to meet
with, rotten timber, or maritime plants, and ſo are
hatched.
су
Figured Stones. On the weft fide of Sandwick pariſh,
along the craggy cliffs, are found, horizontally laid, caufe-
ways, or ftratums of figured itones, of various irregular fi
gures, the work of nature, and the effect of time; but
none of theſe figured ftones bear any relemblance to birds
VOL. XVI.
3 M
Of
458
Statistical Account
or fishes. Near to theſe figured ftones, there is, in a chafn
in thefe craggy cliffs, a figure bearing a refemblance to a
biſhop dreffed in his Epifcopal robes *.
On the eaſt fide of the parish of Sandwick, near the con-
fines of the parish of Stennefs, are to be ſeen the beds, from-
whence it is fuppofed the large ftanding ftones, which com-
pofe the druidical temple erected in that parish, have been.
taken. This bed, from whence thefe ftones have been
taken, is about a mile and a half diſtant from the place
where theſe ſtones are erected. They must have had, in
ancient times, fome method of moving large bodies, that
has not probably been handed down to us.
Antiquities.-There is in the parish of Stromneſs, con-
tiguous to where the church of that parish formerly ſtood,
a fpot of ground of about half an acre, which bears the
name of the Monker-houfe, (monks houſe), which has pro-
bably been the feat of fome religious houfe in the times of
Popery. On the weſt coaſt of the parish of Sandwick,
cloſe by the fea-fhore, is to be feen the ruins or remains of
a large building, which yet bears the name of the Caſtle of
Snufgar.
Tumuli.-There are feveral tumuli, barrows, or bury-
ing-places, in theſe pariſhes. One of thefe, containing
three ftone chefts, was opened in the parish of Sandwick,
by Sir Joſeph Banks, in preſence of Dr Solander, Dr Van
Troil, and Dr Lind, on their return from Iceland in 1772..
In one of thefe chefts or coffins was found a human ſkele
ton, lying on its fide, with the knees bent; in the hollow
of which was found a bag, which appeared to be made of
ruſhes, and contained a parcel of bones bruiſed ſmall, and
alfo
* See a particular account of theſe figured ftones in the 1ſt volume of
the Tranfactions of the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh.
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
459
:
:
alfo fome human teeth. It was fuppofed by Sir Joſeph
Banks and Dr Solander, that this bag contained the re-
mains or aſhes of his wife, or of fome near relation, after
burning.
In the fecond of theſe chefts was found a fkeleton in a
fitting poſture, as if feated on the ground, and the legs
ſtretched out horizontally. To keep the body erect, ſtones
were built up oppofite to the breaſt, as high as the crown
of the head. The whole was covered with a large ſtone.
༣
In the third cheſt was found, in one end, the bones of a
human body thrown together promifcuouſly; in the other
-end, a quantity of chefnut-coloured hair, covered with a
turf, and under the hair about four dozen of beads flatten-
ed on the fides, lying as if on a ftring; about the middle of
which was a locket of bone, and underneath the beads a
parcel of bruiſed bones, like to thofe found in the bag in
the first cheft. When the hair was firft touched it ap-
peared rotten, and the beads friable; but when expoſed to
the air, the hair was found to be ſtrong, and the beads hard.
The beads were black, but it could not be difcovered what
they were compofed of.
Several other tumuli have been opened, which had much
the fame appearance. In fome of theſe tumuli were found
ftone-chefts of about 15 or 18 inches ſquare, in which cheſts
were depofited urns containing afhes; in others of thefe
chefts were found afhes and fragments of bones, without
urns.
In digging for ftones, in one of theſe tumuli was found
an urn ſhaped like a jar, and of a fize fufficient to contain
30 Scotch pints. It contained afhes and fragments of
bones. The colour on the outſide was that of burnt cork,
and on the infide grey. The country man who found it,
left it expoſed to the air for a night, with a view to have
saken it up whole next day; but one of his neighbours
hearing
"
460.
Statistical Account
hearing of it, and fuppofing that it contained fome money,
went to the place clandeftinely on the night, and broke it.
Some of its fragments were fent to Sir Jofeph Banks, who
could not difcover whether it was made of ftone, or fome
other compound matter.
:
Theſe tumuli were probably raiſed before the introduc-
tion of Chriſtianity into thefe iflands, and by confequence
at leaſt twelve or thirteen centuries ago, or more, if what
hiftorians tells us be true, that Servanus, (St Serf), precep-
tor to the famous Kentigern, was Biſhop of Orkney about
the year 560; and it is to be prefumed. that Christianity
was preached here before the regular eſtabliſhment of bi-
ſhops And the inhabitants of theſe iſlands having recei-
ved Chriſtianity, continued, in fo far as we know, to be
fteadily attached to it, and therefore would probably then
relinquish their former method of burial; and as a proof
of their attachment to Chriftianity at a later period, they
fent, in 1071, one of their clergy to the Archbiſhop of
York, who then poffeffed a jurifdiction over the Church of
Scotland. defiring that he would conftitute that clergyman
to be their bishop.
Chapels. The remains of feveral old ruinous chapels are
to be found in theſe pariſhes, but there are no particular
traditions concerning them.
Superfitious Obfervances.—In a part of the parish of
Sandwick, every family that has a herd of fwine, kills a
fow on the 17th day of December, and thence it is called
So y day.
There is no tradition as to the origin of this
practice.
In the fame place, the people do no work on the 30 day
of March, in commemoration of the day on which the
church of Sandwick was confecrated; and as the church.
was
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
461
was dedicated to St Peter, they alſo abftain from working
for themſelves on St Peter's day, (29th June), but they
will work to another perſon who employs them.
Eminent Men.-Thefe parishes have produced no men
eminent in literature, arts, or arms, nor have any refided
here diftinguished for rank, unleſs George Graham, the laſt
Biſhop of Orkney, who had a country feat in each of theſe
parishes. Several young men have gone abroad in the
feafaring and mercantile line, who have riſen to opulence,
and it is to theſe lines that their genius and opportunities
lead them. As the village of Stromnefs cannot be confi-
dered as of more than a century's ſtanding, there has not
as yet, perhaps, been time enough to prove whether the
genius of the people of this village may lead them to ex-
cel in literature, and the higher attainments of fcience;
and they are, perhaps, as uſeful to themfelves and their
country, in the profeffions they at prefent purſue, as they
would be in theſe.
Treatment of Shipwrecked People.Thofe that have the
misfortune to be ſhipwrecked on the coafts of theſe pariſh-
es uſually receive all neceffary affiftance.
The charge
made for fuch affittance has indeed been fcrupled, and con-
fequently often fettled by the Vice-Admiral Depute. In
1771, a floop laden with geneva and lintfeed, was wrecked
clofe by the parish-church of Sandwick; and, as no other
fecure place could be had fo near, the miniſter of theſe
parishes, (Mr James Tyrie), from a principle of humanity,
and hearkening to the dictates of benevolence, rather than
to prudence and a ftrict regard to the duties of his ftation,
confented, along with the heritors, that the cargo ſhould
be lodged in the church, until it could be conveniently re-
moved
462
Statistical Account
►
moved to a place of fafety. In 1788 a fhip laden with
deals was wrecked at the fame place. The cargo was fa-
ved by the affiftance of the people of that parish, but the
Captain, or owners, either refufed or delayed to pay the
ſalvage as previouſly agreed upon. This delay in pay-
ment occafioned the plunder of the cargo of a ſmall floop,
wrecked in the fame place in 1790. The people, difap-
pointed of their juſt expectations of the falvage due them
for the former wreck, would not work to fave the cargo of
this floop, nor was there any perſon of ſufficient influence
in the pariſh to direct them. The Captain took little con-
cern in the matter, and the Vice-Admiral Depute was
diftant 15 miles. As the mob often are influenced by paſ-
fion and refentment rather than by juftice and reaſon, they
thought this was a proper opportunity for repaying them-
felves of the falvage due them for the former wreck, as
if all veffels were the property of one man, not confidering,
that in thus doing what they thought an act of juftice to
themſelves, they were doing injuftice to the proprietors of
the cargo. Others thought, that as no perfon appeared to
direct them to fave the cargo, there would be no injuſtice
in taking away what, in a few hours, would be loft in the
fea, and confequently of no value to any perfon. The car-
go was conſequently plundered, and feveral perſons were
criminally tried before the Jufticiary Court, but none were
condemned; all were acquitted. This is the only inftance
wherein any perfon belonging to theſe parishes has been
criminally tried. The fhipwrecks on the coafts of theſe
pariſhes are not many, as may be ſeen by the following
lift for the period of 33 years laſt paſt.
L
In
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
463
In 1761, Capt. Watt, from Ame-
rica, with flax*, &c.
In 1772, Capt. Shaw, from Eng-
land, with timber *, &c.
In 1771, Capt. Bell, of Scotland,
&c.
with geneva *,
In 1776, Capt. Sands, of Scot-
land, with ſlates *,
In 1778, Capt. Johnfton, of Scot-
land, with kelp,
In 1787, Capt. Weathead, from
Hamburgh, with oil*, &c.
In 1788, Capt. Newton, from Eng-
Suppofed Value.
Tonnage.
250
L. 4000 0 0
1000
5000 0. Q
60
5000 0 0
100
600 o o
40
300 0 0
400
3000 o a
land, with deals
200
ICOO
In 1790, Capt.
of Scot-
land, with flates,
80
600
In 1790, Capt. Budge, of Scotland,
with flax, &c.
30
500 a a
Total tonnage and value,
2160 L. 20,000 Q
N. B.-The cargoes of thoſe marked thus
ved.
were fas
Character. The people are induftrious, and attentive to
their intereſt, and this laſt is a leading feature in their cha-
racter. They may ftill be confidered as oeconomical, al-
though in this they are far fhort of the laft age. Among
a body of 3000 people, it may be prefumed that there are
fome of vicious character and depraved manners; but, in
general, they are decent in their behaviour, reſpectful to
their fuperiors, and modeft in their carriage and converfa-
tion, eſpecially the women. In a fea-port fuch as Strom-
nefs,
464
Statiſtical Account
}
nefs, to which there is a great reſort of ſhipping, it might
be conjectured, that immoralities and a depravity of man-
ners might prevail; but it is to be obferved to their ho-
nour, that there has been only one baftard child to a fran-
ger for 10 years paft.-They are regular in attending di-
vine ſervice, and are neither enthufiaftic nor fuperftitious
in their religious principles: Religentem, non religiofum de-
bet effe, may apply to the greater part. There are no fec-
taries here; all are of the Eſtabliſhed Church.—They are
fond of drefs, the moſt venial of all modern luxuries; but
their regard to their intereft keeps them from exceſs in
this. They live pretty cloſe and quietly at home. Their
habits of life leading them to affairs of intereft, there are
few inclined to reading, and their genius is not turned to
poetry. They are fond of mufic and dancing, and a dan-
cing-maſter is ſure to meet with encouragement at the vil-
lage of Stromnefs. They excel in the knowledge of fea-
affairs and what refpects fhipping, and their genius feems
to be turned this way.-Some were formerly litigious,
and inclined to enter into law-fuits; but theſe having hurt
their circumſtances hereby, this has ſerved to check this
ſpirit in others.-They have no turn to the military line,
and there is rarely an inſtance of any one enliſting as a fol-
dier. They prefer the rigour of the fevere climate of
Hudfon's Bay, to the idleneſs and fhowy appearance of a
foldier. Thoſe who make fome little fortune in the mer-
cantile line at the village of Stromnefs, are perhaps envied
by others not fo induftrious; but the people in general, are
fatisfied with their fituation. Contentus vivere parvo, is as
much known and practifed here as in moſt places.
Advantages and Difadvantages-The refort of ſhipping
to the harbour of Stromnels, is no doubt an advantage to
the farmers, as hereby a readier market is found, and a
higher
of Sandwick and Stromneſs.
465
higher price got for beef, butter, poultry, &c. but it does
not tend to raiſe the price of grain, for grain is generally
as high, and ſometimes higher, in other parts of the coun-
ty, than it is here; and when the little advantages which
the farmer has by the higher price of theſe ſmall articles,
are balanced with the diſadvantages he feels from the ſcar-
city of fervants, and their increaſed wages, both occafioned
by the frequent opportunities which the young men have
of going abroad, it will be found that the farmers advan-
tages are not great; which appears evident from this,
that the farmers were in as good circumſtances 50 years
ago as they are at preſent.
The inhabitants of the village of Stromnefs certainly
feel the advantages refulting from the reſort of ſhipping,
for there are feveral who leave their mechanic trades and
betake themſelves to traffic with the ſhipping, and in a few
years raiſe ſome little capital, and build houſes. By the
refort of ſhipping a readier fale is found for the ftockings
manufactured here, which is one of the greateſt advantages,
as it encourages honeſt induſtry. The money ſpent here
by feamen, or given for proviſions, circulates, and tends to
increaſe the wealth of the place; but it alſo probably pro-
duces theſe effects: The ftyle and tafte for better living is
hereby increaſed, and this tafte being once acquired, leads
many to go abroad to acquire wealth to gratify it, which
occafions a ſcarcity of hands for the purpoſes of agricul-
ture.
It might be reckoned among the advantages, that there
is plenty of limeſtone in theſe parishes; but through the
fcarcity of hands, and of fuel, it is of no ſervice.-The
fcarcity of fuel is a great difadvantage, and in a few years,
muſt hurt agriculture, and leffen the value of property.--
The badneſs of the roads in winter is an inconvenience to
all who muſt paſs them, but eſpecially to the farmer, either
VOL. XVI.
3 N
in
466
Statistical Account
:
in carrying grain to the mill, or in delivering his rent.-
The payment of the rent moftly in malt is a bar to im-
provements, becauſe, on ſmall farms, they cannot afford to
pay the rent, and alſo fallow any confiderable part of their
lands.
Means by which their Condition might be ameliorated.
The condition of the farmers might be ameliorated by
theſe means: 1ft, To grant them long leafes: 2dly, To
repair their houſes: 3dly, That the proprietor incloſe, at
his own expence, one or two acres on each farm: 4thly,
That the proprietor ſupply the farmer with grafs-feeds for
the firſt year to ſow theſe two acres, and direct him in the
management, and make it a nullity in his leafe if he does
not keep the like quantity of ground in fown graſs, for a
certain number of years, until he is fenfible of the benefit
of it: 5thly, That one-half the rent be converted to mo-
ney: 6thly, That the roads be made good: 7thly, That
the limeſtone be burnt, fince, dear as the fuel is, it may be
burnt to advantage.
As there is plenty of water, a tannery might be eſta-
bliſhed near the village of Stromnefs. Some branch of
manufacture might be eſtabliſhed, wherein to employ the
women to more advantage than knitting ftockings.
As the genius of the people is turned to fea-affairs, it
would be of great advantage if there were a few men of
ſpirit and enterprize, and poffeffed of capital fufficient to
carry on the herring fishery, rope-making, fail-making,
net-making. As there is a great refort of ſhipping, there
would be a readier fale for fome of theſe articles than at
Cromarty, where ſome of theſe branches were carried on
by the late Mr Rofs of that place.
Comparative
1
of Sandwick and Stromnefs.
467
Comparative View of the State of thefe Parishes,
in 1700 and 1794.
In 1700, there were only 5 houſes with flated roofs, and a
few ſcattered huts in the village of Stromnefs, the rent
of all which might be about L. 30.
In 1794, there are 130 houfes with flated roofs, and in all
222 inhabited houfes, which might rent at L. 561.
In 1700, the ground on which to build a houſe might have
been purchaſed for L.
5.
In 1794, the fame ground would coft L. 30 or L. 40.
In 1700, there were only 2 fmall floops belonging to this
village, of 30 tons each.
In 1794, there are 2 brigs and 4 floops, in all 500 tons.
In 1700, the whole exports and imports might be L. 400.
In 1792, the whole exports and imports amount
L. 6560.
to
In 1700, the uſe of tea was unknown, even in the fami-
lies of gentlemen of the firft landed property.
In 1792, 860 pounds of tea were imported, and tea is
drunk by tradeſmen and mechanics.
In 1700, gentlemen of landed property, and their families,
were clothed in home manufactures.
In 1794, tradesmen and mechanics are clothed, for the moſt
part, in English cloths.
In 1700, the wives and daughters of gentlemen of landed
property, ſpun and manufactured their own wearing ap-
parel.
In 1794, the wives and daughters of tradeſmen and me-
chanics dreſs in cottons and printed muſlins.
In 1700, Orkney cheeſe, oat-cakes, and ale brewed with-
out hops, were generally prefented at christenings.
In 1794, Engliſh cheeſe, white bread, cinnamon waters,
and wine, are preſented at chriſtenings.
In
i
468
Statistical Account
:
In 1700, hops were not uſed in brewing ale.
In 1792, 15 cwt. hops were imported.
In 1700, a good cow was bought for 8 s. or 10 s.
In 1794, a good cow fells for L. 2.
In 1700, the wages of a maid-fervant was 5 s. a-year.
In 1794, the wages of a maid-ſervant is 15 s. or L. 1 a-
year.
In 1700, no dancing-ſchool had ever been in theſe pa-
riſhes.
In 1793, a dancing-mafter opened a fchool, obtained 40 or
50 ſcholars, and drew L. 5o in four months.
!
:
NUM.
of Deer.
469
2.
NUMBER XXII.
i
PARISH OF DEER,
(COUNTY, SYNOD, AND PRESBYTERY OF ABERDEEN.)
t
By Mr GEORGE CRUDEN, Schoolmaster of Deer.
Name, c.
N the records of the prefbytery, the name of this parish
is variouſly ſpelled Deare, Diere, Dier, and Deer. The
laſt now prevails; and the word is faid to be of Gaelic ori-
gin. De a'r', contracted for De adhra, fignifies, The wor
fhip of God, and may have been applied to this place, be-
cauſe here probably the first church in this corner was
erected. Deer is the mother-church of the prefbytery.
The pariſh of Fetter-Angus, which is a detached portion
of the county of Banff, and lies along the north-eaft fide of
Deer, was annexed to this parish in the year 1618. Before
that period, the cure of the former was ferved by the mi-
niſter of St Fergus. The foundation of the church, which,
like the parish, has been ſmall, is to be ſeen, and the church-
yard is ſtill uſed for burial-ground.
3
Situation,
•
470
Statistical Account
Situation, Extent, &c.-Deer is fituated almoſt in the
centre of the diſtrict of Buchan, and is bounded on the N.
by the parish of Strichen; on the E. by Lonmay and
Longfide; on the S. by Cruden and Ellon; and on the W.
by Newdeer. From N. to S. its greateſt extent is 10
miles; and its mean breadth may be 5 miles. The high
road from Aberdeen to Fraſerburgh cuts it longitudinally,
and interfected by the roads from Banff and Old Meldrum
to Peterhead. One branch of the river Ugie runs through
the middle of the parish; the other branch enters it for a
fhort way on the N. E. Theſe, and the other ſtreams in
the pariſh, turn 13 corn-mills, 3 fulling-mills, 2 lint-mills,
and a ſet of bleaching machinery.
Surface and Soil. -There is no hill of any confiderable
altitude in this parish. Irregular ridges of rifing grounds
run through it in every direction, forming a multitude of
vallies equally irregular. Some of the uplands are covered
with heath, and a poor kind of grafs; others are planted
with wood; many of them are cultivated; and most of
them fufceptible of cultivation. The braes, and lower
parts of the pariſh, are in general beft cultivated, and well
adapted either for corn or pafture. An irregular plain of
confiderable extent, lying round the church and village of
Deer, is reckoned one of the best fummer fcenes in the
north.
Dicas adductum propius frondere Tarentum.
HOR.
On the north of this place lie the woods of Pitfour,
abounding with beautiful fcenery; in the middle of which
ftands the feat of James Ferguſon, Efq; prefent Member of
Parliament for the county.
The foil is generally light, upon a gravelly, clayey, or
rocky bottom, abounding with fmall ftones.
State
of Deer.
471
T
State of Property-This parish contains 120 old ploughs
of land. In former times one tenant poffeffed a plough,
and had always under him ſeveral cottars, or fubtenants,
who held of no other fuperior, and were bound to perfonal
ſervice for part of the rents of their crofts. There are ſtill
fubtenants on the larger farms. The generality of tenants,
however, hold immediately of the heritor; and the prac-
tice of dividing the ploughs, which is very general here,
accommodates the farms to the circumftances of the loweft
clafs of people, and holds out to them a more independent,
though feldom a lefs laborious way of life than the fub-
tenants enjoy. There are at prefent about 350 tenants in
the parish. Nineteen years is the most common term of a
leaſe.
Farming, &c.-The old fyftem of huſbandry prevailed
univerfally in this place till about 40 years ago, when the
introduction of lime gave it a new turn. Watering began
to be uſed here about the ſame time with apparent ſucceſs;
but experience at laft fhewed it to be unfit for this foil.
Water, however, has been applied in this country in gene-
ral only for raifing crops of corn; and, perhaps, if watered
meadows were laid out in the accurate manner in which
they have been done in Wiltshire, and other counties in
the fouth of England, they may be, allowing for the diffe-
rence of climate, nearly equally beneficial here. Soon
after water began to be uſed as a manure, the fowing of
turnip and grafs-feeds was introduced into the parish, and
fince this was generally practifed, agriculture has under-
gone little alteration. Lime is always the firſt ſtep in im-
provement, and the farm is afterwards managed by white
and green crops and pafture. Some perfons have efta-
bliſhed a regular rotation of crops on their farms; but
this is very far from being the general practice. The ſhort-
nefs
472
Statistical Account
nefs of the leafes is particularly an obſtacle to ſyſtematic
farming. The beſt rotations eſtabliſhed here, though not
the beſt to be wifhed, are on infield, or ftrong land, 1ft year,
oats; 2d, bear; 3d, oats; 4th, dunged and turnip; 5th,
bear; 6th, hay; 7th, 8th, 9th, paſture: On outfield, 1ſt
and 2d, oats; 3d, dunged and turnip, or peafe; 4th, bear
or oats; 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, paſture *.
The lateſt improvements in the farming line which have
taken place here, are the revival of work-oxen, two-horſe
ploughs, winnowing machines in mills and barns, different
fpecies of early oats, particularly Magbiehill oats, and
brick pavement in corn-kilns. Four or fix oxen are uſed
in a plough, yoked with collars. Brick pavementfo r
kilns deferves the attention of every farmer. A kiln, 9
feet in diameter, cofts L. 3 Sterling, and will dry 8 or 10
bolls a-day.
The rent of land in this parish is as follows: Infield,
from 10s. to L. I per acre; outfield, from 2 s. 6 d. to 12 s.;
meadow,
The following rotations, the moſt proper for this district, are ex-
tracted from fome rules, which Mr Ferguſon of Pitfour has drawn up for
the information of his tenants:
Where the land requires paſture, (which is generally the cafe), the ro-
tations fhould be,
Imo, In light land, or loam, first year, oats; fecond year, turnip, tho.
roughly horfe and hand-hoed; third year, barley or wheat; fourth year,
clover and graſs-ſeeds; and then paſture, as long as it is proper.
2do, In ſtrong land, first year, oats; fecond year, beans, thoroughly
horfe and hand-hoed; third year, barley or wheat; fourth year, clover
and graſs-ſeeds, and then paſture, as long as it is proper.
In land which is in fuch order as not to require paflure, (which is not
a common cafe), the rotations ſhould be,
Imo, In light land or loam, first year, oats or wheat; fecond year, tur
nip; third year, barley; fourth year, clover.
2do, In clay or ftrong land, first year, wheat; fecond year, beans
third year, oats or barley; fourth year, clover.
of Deer
473
meadow, from 7 s. 6d. to 15 s.; pafture and hill-ground,
from 6 d. to 2 s. 6 d.
Rearing of cattle has, for theſe ten or twelve years paſt,
been the most lucrative part of the farming buſineſs, great
numbers having been bought by drovers for the Engliſh
market. A couple of oxen fells at from L. 10 to L. 20
Sterling. Sufficient attention, however, has not been paid
to the breed. The breed of horſes has been much impro-
ved of late years, by means of itinerant ftallions, and their
value is generally double that of oxen. The number of
black cattle in the parish may be eſtimated at 3400; the
number of horfes at 700.
Produce.-About 20,000 * boils of grain are raiſed an-
nually in this parish, of which one-fifth may be barley. It
is fuppofed, that 4000 bolls of meal and grain are in ordi-
nary years exported. Oat-meal fells at from 10 s. to 16 s.
per boll of 8 ftones Dutch. Bear-meal is of one-fourth lefs
value. No leſs than 3000 bushels of malt, according to
the excife-books, are annually made, and as the bear of
this country is inferior in weight to that of the more fou-
thern counties, the price of malt is feldom more than 4s:
above the price of oat-meal current at the time. Sixteen
hogfheads of lintfeed, moftly American, are fown annually
in this parish. This is reckoned fufficient for 36 acres;
and the produce, on an average, does not much exceed
1000 ftones of fcutched flax. The tenant of one of the
lint-mills has, for feveral years paft, received the greateſt
premium for raiſing flax of any in the county. Hay is fold
at 6 d. per ftone, equal to 20 lb. Dutch. An acre of fur-
nips, when carried off the field, fetches L. 4 Sterling. Po-
tatoes are univerſally cultivated, and fell at 5 d. or 6d.
per peck, of 2 ftones Dutch. Cabbages are planted in the
VOL. XVI.
30
field
*The whole multure-rent of the parish, multiplied by the average
rate of multure, forms the ground-work of this calculation.
474
Statiſtical Account
•
:
field as well as in the garden, and begin to be uſed as
ſpring food for the cattle: they are valued at 1 s. per fall,
or L. 8 per acre.
Thirlage, Multure, and Services.-Almoft all the tenants
are bound to grind their corn at a certain mill; a practice
attended with many inconveniencies. Why fhould a mil-
ler be on a different footing from any other tradefman?
Multure is generally high in this parish. In fome mills
it is converted, and paid with the rent; and ſhould be fo
in every cafe. This, however, is not always practicable,
as the rent and multure are often paid to different heritors;
to remedy which would require a ftatute, abolishing thir-
lage, and empowering every landholder to redeem his
eftate from this burden. And a ſtatute, which equally re-
fpects the good of the heritor and tenant, which would put
a ftop to an intricate and unreaſonable practice obtruded
on the preſent times by the ufe and wont of darker ages,
and which would at once prevent law-fuits, miſunderſtand-
ings, and complaints, certainly merits attention. Services
are not univerfally abolished.
Manufactures.—A great deal of flax is given out to ſpin
in this pariſh for the Aberdeen and Peterhead manufac-
A confiderable quantity of linen-yarn, ſpun from
tures,
J
home-
† Multure most commonly is one-fixteenth of the whole grain raifed,
except what is ufed for feed, whether milled, fold, or malted. This,
with the bannocks, knaveſhips, and other nameless mill-tolls, (which are
fornetimes one-fourth, fometimes one-eight and one-fourth of the multure,
and at fome mills almost twice as much as at others), forms a heavy bur
den on improving tenants; nearly thus:
Σ
1
64
* +12B.
IZB
I I
128
11 bolls in 128.
Mr Ferguſon, who is a very indulgent mafter to his tenants, has abolish-
ed the multures in all mills belonging to himfelf, and all cuftoms and
fervices in his property.
--
of Deer.
475
1
home-grown flax, is annually exported to the fouthern bo-
roughs. In and near the villages of Stewartfield and Deer,
3000 yards of linens, checks, and linfey-woolfeys, are every
year made for fale. The Aberdeen merchants have been
long in the practice of giving out wool to be knitted into
ſtockings. Spinning and knitting form the chief employ-
ment of the women; and a very confiderable fum of mo-
ney is brought into the parish yearly from thefe fources.
A woman earns 2 s. or 2 s. 6 d. a-week.
In the year 1783, a bleachfield, and complete fet of ma-
chinery, were erected by the late Mr Burnett of Denns, in
the neighbourhood of his village of Stewartfield. At pre-
fent, there are about 350 pieces of cloth, and about 600
ſpindles of yarn, bleached annually. The Honourable
Board of Truſtees, a few years ago, gave L. 30 Sterling for
erecting a drying-houſe.
Minerals.-This parish abounds with fprings of water.
On the farm of Mains of Anochie there are no fewer than
52. There are befides a great many chalybeate ſprings in
the pariſh, ſome of which are very ſtrongly impregnated,
and have been uſeful in ftomachic and gravelliſh com-
plaints.
There are quarries of limeſtone of a very good quality,
in different parts of the parish; fome of which are reckon-
ed inexhauſtible. About 13,000 bolls of lime are made
annually, which fells at 6 d. or 7 d. per boll of 90 Scots
pints. 5000 or 6000 bolls of unburnt limeſtone are like-
wife fold to farmers, who burn it for themfelves, at the
rate of L. 1, 5 s. for the hundred-boll-cairn, which contains
475 cubical feet. From 60 to 70 hands are employed,
but not conftantly, in the different parts of the work, who
are either paid by the piece, or receive 9 d. per day in
fummer, and 7 d. in winter.
In
476
Statistical Account
3
In the fouth-weft fide of the parish, there is abundance
of that ſpecies of quartz called felt-ſpar, or rombic quartz,
both above and below the furface of the ground. The
late Mr Garden of Troup, to whom the eſtate belonged on
which it is found in greateſt plenty, fent a ſpecimen of it
to a glaſshouſe in Newcaſtle, which was approved of, and
a confiderable quantity was in confequence exported; but
the expence of land-carriage, or fome other caufe, foon put
a ftop to this branch of commerce *.
Pieces of cryftalized quartz are likewife met with occa-
fionally; the pureft in the form of regular hexagonal
priſms, pointed at the ends.
A dark blue, and a very white granite, are the ftones
moſt uſed in building,
Church, Poor, and School.-A commodious church, fuf-
ficient to contain 1400 perſons, was built in the year 1789,
for L. 700 Sterling. The ftipend may be valued at L 80.
Sterling. The glebe meaſures 29 acres nearly; the
greateſt part of it good land. Mr Bafil Anderſon is the
preſent incumbent. The crown is patron.
There is a Seceding meeting-houfe in the parish, and an
English Epiſcopal chapel, where moſt of the gentry in the
pariſh and neighbourhood attend. There are 29 men and
47 women preſently upon the poors lift †, who receive from
6 s. to L. 2 each per annum, in fmall fums quarterly. The
weekly
*Deer is 10 miles diftant from Peterhead, the neareſt fea-port.
In the year 1751, as appears by a minute of the feffion, the number
of poor on the lift was 31, and the yearly collections did not then exceed
L. 46, 16s. Scots, of which L. 28, 4 s. went for clerk and officer's fees.
Yet fo much was this at that time accounted, that a ſcheme for maintain-
ing the poor in their own houses, by affeffments on the heritors and te
nants, was unanimouſly rejected by the feffion, one principal reaſon being,
that it would reduce the ordinary collections to a trifle.
of Deer.
477
weekly collections amount to no leſs than L. 40 Sterling a-
year; which, with what is collected about the time of the
communion, the intereft of a bill of L. 45 Sterling, mort-
cloth-money, forfeited matrimonial pledges, &c. makes
about L. 60, which is annually diſburſed by the kirk-feffion.
This fum, together with what is diftributed by the other
congregations, is found adequate for the ordinary neceffities
of the poor; and when an extraordinary cafe occurs, inti-
mation is made from the pulpit, and a collection made for
the purpoſe.
The late Mr Burnett of Denns left, by deed of fettle-
ment, the lands of Andiefwells and Backhill, renting about
L. 18 Sterling for the behoof of the indigent and infirm on
his own eſtates in this pariſh; with this reſerve, that if
ever poor-rates be eſtabliſhed here, the mortification ſhall
ceaſe.
The emoluments of the ſchool and feffion-clerkship a-
mount to L. 30 per annum. The number of ſcholars, ac-
cording to the ſeaſon, varies from 20 to 50, who pay quar.
terly 2 s. 6d. for Latin, 2 s. for arithmetic, and 1 s. 6d.
for Engliſh. The fees for other branches of education are
at the diſcretion of the teacher.
Villages and Population.—There are three villages in this
pariſh, two of which have been built within theſe 25 years;
Fetterangus, by Mr Ferguſon of Pitfour, and Stewartfield,
by Mr Burnett of Denns; the village of Deer is upon the
property of Mr Ruffel of Moncoffer, and is of very long
ftanding. Owing to theſe, and the fplitting of farms, the
population of this parish has very much increaſed. In the
year 1750, the number of communicants in the Eſtabliſhed
Church was 718; for fome years paſt, the number has
been little short of 1400. By a correct lift, taken in the
year
}
478
Statistical Account
:
year 1788, previous to building the new church, there were
Antiburgher Seceders,
Heritors,
found in the pariſh :
Perfons,
3267
Males,
1554
Females,
1713
Of the Church of Scotland,
2305
England,
721
Rome,
12
229
II
5
166
Stewartfield,
181
!
81
75
55
23
Heritors refiding conftantly or occafionally,
Village of Deer contained,
Fetterangus,
The number of baptifms annually, upon an ave-
rage of feven years laſt paſt, is
The number of burials,
of marriages,
The parishioners are in general, a decent, fober, charitable
people. Agriculture, the employment of the generality, is
favourable to virtue; public worship, and the ordinances of
religion, are attended with a laudable punctuality.
It
Difeafes, c.-No diſeaſe has of late years raged here
with greater mortality than a putrid fore throat.
chiefly attacked children, fometimes cutting off two, three,
and four of a family. Inoculation for the ſmall-pox
has been practiſed here with fuccefs. Laſt year (1792) a
furgeon of this place, humanely inoculated gratis above
100 children, moftly of the lower clafs, of which only one
died. Many people after all are very much averfe to in-
oculation. Confumptive complaints are not unfrequent
among the young; rheumatism afflicts thofe of riper years.
३
It
of Deer.
479
It is an uncommon circumftance, and fhews that this place
is by no means unfavourable to health, that there is juſt
now in the village of Deer a family of five perfons, in
which there has been neither birth, marriage, burial, nor
bedrid perſon theſe 50 years! The mother of this family,
who is the oldeſt perſon in the parish, thinks herſelf about
her hundredth year. It is equally worthy of obfervation,
that there died laft winter a parishioner in the 84th year of
his age, who was married two years before to his feventh
lawful wife!
Mifcellaneous Obfervations. In the village of Deer, and
in the neighbourhood, there are inns, where travellers of
every deſcription can have good accommodation. The
following licenſes were granted within the parish for the
year ending the 10th October 1793, viz. 7 ale licenfes,
4 fpirit licenſes, 3 wine licenfes, I tea licenfe, and 9 tobac
co and fnuff licenfes. Notwithſtanding the few tea licenfes
taken out, that article is uſed more or leſs almoſt in every
family. There are at prefent 26 retail-fhops in the parish,
2 faddler's ſhops, 1 baker, befides all the common tradeſ-
men and mechanics. The invoice of the merchants are
from L. 50 to L. 500 Sterling a-year; and their annual
profits on ſtock are about 10 per cent.
The peopling of the villages and ſmall farms, a great in-
creaſe of handicraftfmen, and a demand for hands to the
neighbouring manufactures, have occafioned a temporary
ſcarcity of fervants in this place, and afforded them an op-
portunity, not only of raiſing their wages, but of demand-
ing fome other conceffions which former times denied them.
A man-fervant receives about L. 6, a maid-ſervant from
L. 2 to L. 3 per annum. Servants are all maintained in
the family, and probably in no part of Scotland are they
better uſed.
"
There
480
Statistical Account
$
There are 2 four-wheeled chaifes and a hearfe in the
pariſh.
About 900 acres have been planted in this parish, moft-
ly with Scotch firs at first, and afterwards filled up with a
variety of other trees, of which Mr Ferguſon's plantations
amount to about 650 acres. Pines and larches have in ge-
neral thriven better than the Scotch fir. Larches, indeed,
have fucceeded on northerly expofures, where every other
kind of wood, which was tried, had failed. Of hard wood,
beech, ash, birch, oak, and plane trees, have come to confi-
derable fize. Hedge-rows to a great extent have in many
places been planted round inclofures, along with ſtone and
turf fences.
There is plenty of game in this pariſh, as grouſe, par-
tridges, woodcocks, fnipes, and hares; befides wild pigeons,
wild ducks, teals, herns, and occafionally wild geeſe and
fwans; there are alſo hawks, owls, and great numbers of
crows, (which are very deſtructive), and finging birds, as
the thruſh, blackbird, linnet, goldfinch, &c. Foxes infeft
this place, together with badgers, otters, polecats, wea-
fels, &c.
The ftreams here abound with falmon, and excellent
trout of different kinds, and angling is a favourite diver-
fion.
Seed-time is from the middle of March to the end of
April. Harveft commences about the beginning of Sep-
tember, and commonly lafts fix weeks. In the year 1782,
the crop in this parish was ſuppoſed to fall ſhort about one
half of the uſual produce. Twelve hundred bolls of bear-
meal and peafe were imported, moftly by refiding heritors.
The tenants, however, got the better of this ftroke by an
extraordinary crop in 1784, which, with the rife of cattle,
brought this country to a pitch of profperity, which it pro-
bably never before enjoyed.
A
of Deer.
481
A canal betwixt this place and Peterhead is practicable
on a very moderate expence. Should ſuch a meaſure ever
be put in execution, and long leafes with progreffive riſes
of rent be granted, the agriculture and manufactures of this
diſtrict would be improved, and the population increaſed to
a degree that is at prefent only conceivable.
Since the duty was taken off coals, the uſe of them in-
creaſes here daily; and to thoſe who are more than a cou-
ple of miles diftant from mofs, they prove as cheap fuel as
peat, the procuring of which is a very tedious and expen-
five work. The time that would be gained by the ufe of
coals for agricultural improvement, is a matter of fo great
importance, that nothing but want of experience could hin-
der the farmer a moment from adopting them.
The great quantity of linen-yarn fent out of the pariſh
might be bought up at home, and would afford a good open-
ing for a thread manufactory.
Antiquities.-The antiquities of this place are, druidical
circles, fingle monumental pillars, cairns, intrenchments,
and an abbey.
There were, not many years ago, the remains of up-
wards of a dozen druidical circles in this pariſh. One of
them, fituated on the hill of Parkhouſe, not far from the
village of Deer, is the moft entire. The horizontal ftone
on the fouth is 14 feet long, containing about 250 folid
feet. At the diſtance of about 500 yards, on the north-
eaft fide of the fame hill, were, not long ago, the ruins of
a fmall village, fuppofed to have been the refidence of the
druids. A number of little yards were to be ſeen all a-
round it; one of which ftill retains a fuperior verdure, and
ſerves now to ſhow the ſpot where the village once ſtood.
It confifted of 50 or 60 moffy huts, from 6 to 12 feet
fquare, irregularly huddled together; hence it got the
VOL. XVI.
3 P
name
482
Statistical Account
name of the bourachs. The walls were built of ftone and
clay; the floors were paved with ftones. A farmer in the
neighbourhood, about 20 years ago, applied the ftones,
which were all of ſmall ſize, to erect incloſures. In remo-
ving the rubbiſh, he found a cylindrical ſtone, like a ſmall
mill-ſtone; probably part of the quearn, or hand-mill, an-
ciently uſed in this country for grinding corn. Two cir-
cular huts, containing ſome aſhes, ſeem to have been corn-´
kilns.
A cairn on the hill of Auchmacher was opened fome
years ago, and an urn was found in it, having its mouth
adorned with a great number of fmall jet black fubftances,
circular and perforated.
At the foot of the hill of Sapling-brae, upon the north
bank of the Ugie, ftand the remains of the Abbey of
Deer; which was built in the beginning of the 13th cen-
tury, by William Cumming Earl of Buchan, who brought
to it fome Ciftertian monks, from the abbey of Kinlofs in
Moray, in the year 1218. The revenue of this abbey, as
appears by the collector's books which are extant, was as
follows: Money, L. 572:8:6; meal*, 65 chalders 7 bolls
I firlot 3 pecks; wheat, 14 bolls; bear, 14 chalders 10
bolls. The lands which belonged to it were erected into
* Estimating the victual at 12 s. 6 d. per boll, (the average of the fars
of the county of Aberdeen for 20 years laft paft), and valuing the mo-
ney by the quantity of filver contained in a pounds Scots in the middle of
the 16th century, the revenues of the Abbey would amount to nearly
L. 1200 Sterling; but they in fact amount now to a much greater fum.
There is an old rental of the abbey lands in the custody of Mr Ferguson.
To form an idea of their extent, it needs only be added, that the ſpiritual
mens lands in the county of Aberdeen amounted to L. 321: 16:8, of
which the Abbey of Deer was rated at L. 20 of old extent, (equal to 10
freehold-qualifications), and that the temporal mens lands amounted to
L. 2372 of old extent, or nearly four times the valuation of the lands pof-
feffed by the clergy.
a
#
of Deer.
483
:
a temporal lordſhip in 1587, in favour of Robert Keith,
co.nmendatary of Deer, fon to William the 6th Earl Ma-
rifchal. He left no male-iffue, and accordingly his eftate
devolved on George Earl Mariſchal.
The abbey has been an extenfive building, but is now
very much in ruins. The work has been very plain; the
doors and windows coarſely arched. A femicircular pil-
lar of red freeftone, of the Doric order, has been lately dif
covered, cloſe by the wall, in the infide of the north aiſle
of the church. Its diameter is 3 feet 8 inches: only 5
feet of the ſhaft remain. Were more of the rubbiſh clear-
ed away, it is probable fimilar pillars might be found in
other parts of the building.
NUM-
484
Statistical Account
NUMBER XXIII.
PARISH OF LEGERWOOD.
1
:
(COUNTY OF BERWICK, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TEVIOT-
DALE, AND PRESBYTERY OF LAUDER),
From Materials communicated by Meffrs MURRAY and
MIRTLE of this Parish.
Situation, Extent, c.
'HE pariſh of Legerwood lies in the fhire of Berwick,
THE
in the preſbytery of Lauder, in the Synod of Merſe
and Teviotdale. It is nearly on the confine between Lau-
derdale and the Lammermuir-hills. Immediately around
it are the parishes of Gordon, Earlton, (or Elreflington),
Melrofe, Lauder, Weftruther. It is an area of about three
miles in length by two and a half in breadth, or of nearly
eight ſquare miles. It confifts of an affemblage of hills,
gently rifing to a confiderable height from the eaſtern bank
of the Leader. Anciently, as we have reaſon to believe,
theſe hills, and the intermediate glens, and all the circum-
jacent
of Legerwood.
485
:
jacent country, were covered thick with wood. The Bri-
tons, the Romans, the Anglo-Saxons, the Picts, the Scots,
fucceffively poffeffors of theſe regions, confumed by degrees
the greater part of the woods, in the ravages of war, in
opening paffages through the country, in fuel and domeftic
uſes, in clearing the ground for cultivation. The marshes
and the ftrata of peat-earth likewife evince, that much of
the ſtanding timber was anciently fuffered to grow to de-
cay, to fall down, and to moulder away on the ground
where it had been produced. Here, as in almoft every
other part of Scotland, the deſtruction of the native woods
appears to have been fucceeded on the hilly grounds by the
growth of heath, on the lower and flat tracts by the ſtag-
nation of water, and by moffes and water-plants. Such
was the general aſpect of the lands of this parish, except
on ſome narrow fields around the farm-fteads, till it was
happily changed by the cultivation of theſe laſt 30 or 40
years.
Soil. On the lower declivities of the hills, and in the
narrow vales dividing them, the foil is commonly a deep
ſtratum of blackish mould, compoſed of fand from commi-
nuted fragments of the adjacent rocks, of the exuvia and
remains of decayed vegetables, and of oils and falts from
On the cultivated up-
the atmoſphere and from manures.
lands the ftratum of the foil is more fhallow, and is of a red-
diſh colour, as containing a larger fhare of ftony matter
from the rocks, and a fmaller proportion of vegetable
mould. The marshes prefent deep ftrata of peat-earth, of
which the appearance and qualities are fufficiently known.
Its compofition is evidently, where it is the moſt perfect,
from the remains of decayed ligneous vegetables, with the
occafional intermixture of a portion of the remains of gra-
mineous vegetables, and fometimes of a little fand. Some-
times
486
Statistical Account
times, by the efficacy of its ſeveral ingredients, vegetables
of all forts, and even other fubftances, are long preferved.
from decay in fuch beds of peat-earth. Hence are the
trunks, not only of oaks, but alſo of other trees, often found,
unconfumed and freſh amidſt ftrata of this earth; and
hence the graffes, which often appear in a ſtate of good
preſervation, in peats of a light, fpungy confiftency. The
chemical conſtituents of pure peat-earth, are plainly, car-
bone or pure coal, oils of different forts, the refinous ex-
tract of vegetables, and fimple earth. On the dry heathy
heights in this parish, the foil is commonly a thin layer of
gravel, of peat-earth, or of both together.
Climate: As to climate, the fnows and frofts of winter
act here fometimes perhaps a little longer, and with fome-
what more ſeverity, than in the more fouthern, lower ly-
ing, and more richly cultivated lands of the Merfe; by the
relative highneſs of its fituation, too, this pariſh is not a
little expoſed to the winds and rains of ſpring and autumn;
and where the foil is thin and dry, its vegetation is liable
to be parched by the droughts of fummer. In the end of
April 1795, the progrefs of the labours of fpring was
I nearly eight days later here than on the low grounds of
Mid-Lothian.
Difeafes.-The diſeaſes with which the inhabitants of
this pariſh are liable to be afflicted are, the epidemical dif-
eaſes common through the whole kingdom, fmall-pox,
meafles, c. and thofe other diftempers which are ufually
thought to be produced by exceffive toil, and by unfeaſon-
able expofure to a cold and humid atmoſphere, fever, cough,
catarrh, rheumatiſm, confumption, c. They are men-
tioned in this place, becauſe there is believed to be always
an
of Legerwood.
487
an intimate connection between the diſeaſes prevalent in
any diſtrict, and the nature of its climate.
Wild Animals.-The wild animals of this pariſh are not
now numerous. The fox fometimes infefts the sheep-pa-
ftures. Hares are plentiful. Thofe little mifchievous qua-
drupeds, which prey upon poultry, have not yet been whol-
ly exterminated. The houfes, barns, and barn-yards are
not free from mice and rats. Adders, although rare, are
fometimes feen bafking among the heath, in the warm days.
of fummer. The rivulets afford trouts. The tracts covered
with heath, are frequented by muirfowls, and the corn-fields
are haunted by partridges. During the long-continued and
intenſe ſeverities of the winter 1794-5, many of theſe wild
animals periſhed by cold and hunger, and many, in the ex-
treme weakneſs to which they were reduced, became an
eafy prey to whoever choſe to purſue them. One gentle-
man had a number of hares taken alive, which he con-
fined in an apartment, and fed plentifully with corn till the
fnow began to diſappear, then generouſly ſet them at
liberty.
Number of Inhabitants.-The number of the inhabitants
of this parish has increaſed, in proportion as its cultiva-
tion has been extended and improved. In the year 1755,
the population of Legerwood was ftated to Dr Webfter to
amount to 398 fouls. It is inhabited at prefent by 422
perfons in all, of both fexes, and of every age and condi-
tion.
Heritors. Among thefe ordinary inhabitants, is only
one of the hereditary proprietors of the lands, Major Shil-
linglaw of Birkhillfide. The other heritors, fix in number,
3
the
او
488
Statistical Account
the Marquis of Tweeddale, -Kerr, Efq; of Morayfton,
G. Innes, Efq; of Stow, John Spottifwood, Efq; of Spot-
tifwood, Captain Orde of Eaſt Morayfton, are non-refi-
dent.
Farmers.-The whole lands of the parish are divided
into 17 farms, large or finall, which are occupied by as
many different farmers. Theſe farmers, and the hinds, la-
bourers and shepherds in their fervice, with their reſpective
families, compofe almoſt the whole population.
}
Huſbandry.-Huſbandry is, then, almoft the only mode
of induſtry purſued here. Until within theſe laſt 50 years,
the farmers of Legerwood were almoſt excluſively graziers
and fhepherds. What little tillage they carried on, for the
purpoſe of raiſing bread-corn for the immediate fupply of
their own families, was upon a plan of agriculture which
has fince appeared to have been extremely unfkilful. The
ground was broken up with a fallow; three fucceffive
crops of oats were then raiſed upon it; after this, it was
left for eight or nine years unploughed, that it might, in
this period of ceffation, recruit its exhauſted fertility.
At length, as a more enlightened and induſtrious agricul-
ture began to advance, with its improvements from the
Louthern districts of Berwickshire, northwards, through the
reft of Scotland; the farmers of Legerwood were by degrees
convinced, that even as graziers they fhould be greatly
gainers by a more extenfive, and a more fkilfully conducted
tillage. They adopted, one after another, that rotation of
crops which ftill prevails in the parish. The fallow is dif-
ufed; ley is for the two first years after it has been broken
up, fown with oats; on the third year it is manured with
dung, and fown with turnip-feed, or with peafe, if dung be
wanting for manure; yet a fourth year, the fame field is
ploughed,
of Legerwood.
489
ploughed, and the feed is now oats or barley, with graſs-
feeds. Where the foil is light and thin, only three fuc-
ceffive crops are raiſed upon it; the ſecond of the crops of
oats above mentioned being here omitted. After this ro-
tation of crops, the field remains unploughed, till the graffes,
of which the feeds were mixed with the laft feed of barley
or oats, begin to be exterminated from the ſward, and the
native heath and bog-graffes to be unſeaſonably renewed.
to another.
The manures employed in theſe proceffes of agriculture
are folely dung, as is above mentioned, and lime, imported
from Mid-Lothian. The dung from the ſtalls of the cattle
is carefully accumulated in the farm-yard, and is, in the
proper ſeaſon, conveyed thence to be ſpread upon the fields
under tillage; or the cattle are at times folded in the fields,
fo as to manure the ground of the fold as they drop their
dung, without farther care on the part of the owners, than
that of removing the fold occafionally from one fituation
The diſtance of the lime kilns of Mid-Lothian
would render lime an enormously expenfive article of ma-
nure to the farmers of Legerwood and its neighbourhood,
were it not that grain and other things are ufually carried
to Dalkeith market, in the carts which return loaded with
lime. Fields covered deep with ftrata of peat-earth are
often quickened by the manure of lime to amazing ferti-
lity. Where the foil is of fufficient depth, dung often pro-
duces an exceffive luxuriancy of crop, in which the vege-
tation is waſted in ſtraw and empty ears.
The foil of many parts of thefe lands does not want
ftrength ſufficient for the production of wheat; but a pre-
vious fallow would generally be neceffary, in confequence
of which there would be but one crop obtained in the courſe
of two years; and no one crop of wheat would be equal in
value to two crops of oats, barley, or turnips.
VOL. XVI.
3 &
Potatoes
:
490
Statistical Account
Potatoes are cultivated in confiderable quantities in this
pariſh, as over the reft of Scotland; but do not enter inva-
riably into the rotation, and are not in any peculiar degree
a favourite article of crop.
Various forts of feed-oats have been tried here. Blainf-
ley oats and red oats are the two fpecies the moft generally
fown. Red oats are found to fucceed peculiarly well on
the foil and in the climate of Legerwood; yielding, at an
average, eight bolls in the hundred of larger increaſe than
any other ſort of ſeed oats; thickening furpriſingly on the
field as they grow up, from a thin fowing; enduring the
autumnal winds with comparatively little fhaking of the
ears; affording the best fraw; and giving, in meal, half a
ſtone more from the boll of rough corn, than the Blainfley
oats yield.
But turnips are, above all others, the favourite article of
crop. They are precious, as green food, equally to ſheep
and black cattle during winter; the manure and culture
neceffary to produce a crop of turnips, ferve admirably to
prepare the field for the cultivation and produce of the en-
fuing year; the waſte of the turnips that remains uncon-
fumed by the cattle, forms alfo a rich manure to the ground
on which they are ſcattered.
Horſes are the only beaſts of draught or burden employ-
ed in this parish. All the implements of huſbandry, carts,
ploughs, harrows, &c. are of the most advantageous con-
ſtruction known in the county. A double plough for tur-
nips, the invention of Mr Paterfon, and formed to be drawn
by one or two horſes, is alſo in ufe here, and is found to
afford a very convenient abridgment of labour. Two
threſhing-machines have been already erected in this parish,
and there is a third about to be fet up in the preſent fum-
mer (1795), at the first cost of from L. 60 to L, 100 Ster-
ling. But this expence is quickly repaid by the faving of
labour, which is obtained from the uſe of the threſhing-
machine.
of Legerwood.
491
machine.
Here are two corn-mills, which are in part fup-
ported by the reſtrictions of thirlage upon the lands of the
parish. Happily, modes of mutual accommodation have
been generally adopted between the farmers, the millers,
and the landholders, which prevent theſe reſtrictions from
being felt as intolerably grievous. The ploughmen in this
pariſh are eminently dexterous and ſkilful. Three fmiths
and two joiners perform that work in wood and iron, which
is requifite to repair, from time to time, the implements of
farm-labour, Sc.
Yet, however fkilful and induftrious the agriculture of
Legerwood, even a ftranger might judge, at a firſt aſpect,
that the feeding and fattening of fheep and black cattle are
the primary objects of the induſtry of the farmers of this
parish.
Inclofures, Roads, &c.-No inconfiderable portions of
the lands ftill lie here and there in undrained marshes, or
are bleakly covered with their native barren heath. Here
is a general want of inclofures; and thofe which appear
are chiefly turf-dikes; for indeed the climate, and the nib-
bling of the fheep, are unfavourable to the thriving of
hedges; and ftones, for ftone walls of any kind, are ex-
tremely ſcarce. Except in two or three inftances, the pa-
rish bye-roads are in a very indifferent ftate. The uplands
and ſlopes are bare of wood, as in thofe wild fcenes into
which the improvements and decorations of cultivation
have not yet been admitted.
Animal Stock.-The horfes and other animals maintained
on theſe farms are numerous. An hundred and fix horfes,
old and young, are kept for the faddle or the draught, and
to ſupply the gradual wafte. The sheep are no fewer than
3769. The black cattle are at prefent 559; and here are
59 fwine,
The
492
Statiſtical Account
The ſheep are of a breed from Northumberland, valu
able alike for mutton and for wool. They are annually
fmeared with butter and tar, mingled in the proportion of
four pounds of butter to one pint of tar. They, equally
with the black cattle, feed in winter on hay and turnips;
and in fummer find their food on the open paftures.
Grofs yearly Produce.-Upon the fe lands, with this ſtock,
and by theſe modes of management and cultivation, the
farmers of Legerwood furniſh a grofs annual produce of
6000 bolls of corn, worth
Wool, to the value of
Sheep fold,
Black cattle,
In their total value,
L. 4500
оо
оо
400
1300 Q.
o
1070
о
o
L. 7270
о
o
he
Yearly Confumption and Expence.-Out of
this groſs value rents are to be paid to the
amount of
The poor are fuftained by an affeffment of
L. 1430
о
The pariſh roads are repaired and extended by
an affeffment of
The expences of labour, of feed and manure,
of the renewal of the animal flock, and of
the maintenance of the families of the far-
mers, coſt annually
30 O
25 o a
3785 0
L. 5270
о
о
2000 O о
L. 7270
Surplus of the yearly Produce. Thus, of the grofs pro-
duce of the lands, there remains, after the deduction of
theſe various items of annual expenditure, only the fum of
L. 2000 as a compenfation for the toil and ſkilful manage-
ment of the farmers; as intereft upon the value of their
unperiſhing
of Legerwood.
493
;
unperishing flock; as a gradual repayment of that part of
their ſtock which is funk in improvements upon the lands
and as clear profits upon the various bargains of fale and
purchaſe which they tranfact in the courfe of the year *.
This would appear no very confiderable return, if we
fhould compare it with the value of the ftock and labour
by which it is produced; and again, with the profits which
the fame quantity of ftock and labour would afford in feve-
ral departments of trade and manufactures. Yet it exhi-
bits, in no unpleafing light, the advantages which attend
the profecution of agriculture, where the hufbandman is
encouraged by a leafe fufficiently long, and reaſonable in
its terms, to lay out his fortune freely in the cultivation of
his farm, and to exert upon it all his induſtry and inge-
nuity. For moſt of the lands in this parish are poffeffed
by the tenants upon long and eaſy leafes, which have given
great encouragement to bold and expenfive agricultural
improvements. By this management, the landholders are
perhaps ſtill more highly gainers than their tenants; be-
caufe, in the first place, rents that are eafily made out of
the lands, are punctually paid, without deficiency or liti-
gation; and, in the ſecond place, becauſe the value of lands
is much more rapidly augmented in thefe circumſtances,
than in the caſe of ſhort leafes and racked rents.
Hinds.-The circumſtances of the country, and the ge-
nerofity of the farmers, are fuch as to reward the toil of
the hinds, or labourers, in this parish, with a very liberal.
fhare of the produce of the lands. Married are almoſt al-
ways preferred to unmarried male-fervants, fhepherds, or
ploughmen. They are ſettled in fnug cottages on the farms
to which they for the time refpectively belong. In grain,
money,
*It is even probable, that many other fums of unafcertained expence
muſt be deduced from this fum of L. 2000 before the clear profit only
should remain.
魆
​494
Statifical Account
money, and other articles for their ſupport or accommoda-
tion, they receive an yearly wage, varying with circum-
ftances from L. 15 to L. 20 Sterling. Befides, each hind,
poffeffing a cottage, is, at the fame time, obliged to furniſh
to his landlord and employer, a female-labourer, his wife,
daughter, or fervant, to work occafionally throughout the
year for the hire of 8 d. a-day.
Markets for Exports.—Of the grain, peaſe, wool, oxen
and ſheep annually produced in this parish, the owners, af-
ter referving thoſe portions which are neceffary for the va-
rious uſes of domeſtic confumption, fell the reſt to dealers,
who refort hither to purchaſe them, or export them for fale
to the markets of Dalkeith and Kelfo. The wool is com-
monly purchafed by or for woollen-manufacturers from
England, Galashiels, or Peterhead. Some fheep of that
age at which they are termed hogs, and a few black cattle,
are occaſionally fold into England. But, for grain of all
forts, for oxen, cows, and fheep, Dalkeith is the ordinary
and principal market. Formerly here, and in the neigh-
bourhood, were ſeveral dealers in meal, who purchafing
the corn from the farmers, manufactured it into meal for
the markets of Kelfo, Lauder, and Dalkeith. At prefent,
the two millers of the pariſh ftill continue very properly
to deal as meal-mongers; but moſt of the grain is exported
unground.
Imports. As to the requifite imports of coals, lime, gro-
cer's goods, draper's goods, hardware, ftationer's goods, &c.
theſe are all obtained from Kelfo, Lauder, Dalkeith, and
Edinburgh. Kelſo affords the beſt and moſt convenient
market for butchers meat. Lauder is the neareſt poſt-
town, but too ſmall a place to ferve to any confiderable ex-
tent as a market. An attempt which is now made to find
coals.
of Legerwood.
495
coals on the Earl of Lauderdale's eftate, near Blackfhiells,
if fuccefsful, will furniſh a confiderably nearer market for
this article of fuel, than thofe coal-works immediately a-
round Dalkeith and Edinburgh, from which it is at pre-
fent procured.
Houſes.--Here are, at Corfbie, at Weftmorayfton, and
at Whitflade, three ancient towers, monuments of that ſtate
of the arts and manners of our anceſtors; in which, faving
ecclefiaftical edifices, there were no buildings in this coun-
try, but the fortrefs and the cottage; and in which, all the
accommodation that was fought in a houſe, was barely
fhelter and fecurity. The prefent dwelling-houſes are
diſperſed over the farms; only, on the farm of Legerwood
(proper), is there fuch an affemblage of houfes together, as
compoſes a hamlet, or incipient village. The houſes of the
farmers are commonly of two ftories in height, handfomely
and comfortably fitted up within, with a fquare of office-
houſes and a kitchen-garden contiguous, and having flocks.
of poultry feeding round them. The houfes of the hinds
are dry, fnug, and comfortable, affording to thefe honeſt
labourers better domeftic accommodation than the greateſt
noblemen enjoyed five or fix centuries ago, in the ſtrongeſt
and moſt ſpacious of thofe caftles, the ruins of which we
fill admire.
Manners, &c.-The inhabitants of this parish appear to
be in general healthy, fober, virtuous, induftrious, and in-
telligent. Except about 40 Diffenters, they are all con-
tent with the religious inftruction to be received in their
pariſh-church; the miniſter of which enjoys a living of
about L. 90 Sterling in yearly value, with a manfe and a
glebe. The children of the hinds are carefully fent to the
pariſh-ſchool, to learn reading, writing, arithmetic, and the
firft
496
Statistical Account
firſt principles of religion; the pariſh-ſchoolmaſter enjoying,
befide the wages, a falary of L. II: 6: 8 Sterling. The
farmers are enabled to give their children all the real ad-
vantages of what is ufually called a liberal education. Moſt
of the articles of dreſs uſed here are imported, not manu-
factured within the pariſh. Here are two or three tailors,
and one weaver. The language of this pariſh having, for
theſe laſt 1200 years, been chiefly Saxon, is at prefent,
with that ſpoken through all Berwickshire and in Northum-
berland, more fubftantially Saxon than the language of any
other diſtrict in Great Britain. The names of places in
this pariſh are all, or almoſt all, purely Saxon: As, for in-
ſtance, Legerwood, fignifying preciſely, the hollow wood, or
the hollow place in the wood, and accurately expreffive of
the fituation of the farm which bears the name, and com-
municates it to the parish: Corbie, quafi Caer-bee, the
Caftle, a name compounded from a Britiſh and a Saxon
word, having both the ſame ſignification, ſo that there was
probably a Roman ftation here, before the Anglo-Saxons
came into the iſland: Boon, the Upper Farm, or Dwelling,
ESC.
1
NUM.
of Temple.
497
NUMBER XXIV.
PARISH OF TEMPLE,
(COUNTY OF MID-LOTHIAN, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND
TWEEDDALE, PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH).
By the Rev. Mr JAMES GOLDIE, Miniſter.
TH
Origin of the Name.
HERE was an eſtabliſhment for the Templars, or Red
Friars, made in this place by King David I. of Scot-
land; hence the name of the parifh.
Situation.-Temple lies 11 Engliſh miles fouth from
Edinburgh. That part of the parish which is fituated in
the immediate vicinity of the church, is bounded on the S.
and S. W. by the county of Tweeddale; on the W. by
the parish of Pennycuik; on the N. W. and N. by the pa-
riſh of Primroſe; on the N. E. and E. by the parish of
Borthwick; and on the S. E. by that of Heriot. Its great-
eft length may be about 9 miles, and its greateſt breadth 5.
But befides this, there is another part of the parish, lying
VOL. XVI.
3 R
four
498
Statistical Account
four Engliſh miles to the eastward, quite detached by a part
of the parish of Borthwick, and infulated by the parishes.
of Borthwick and Newbattle. It confifts of about 300
acres of clay foil. I do not know how it became annexed
to this pariſh.
Climate.-From the fituation the air is cold; the froft
fets in early in the feaſon, and continues late in the fpring;
at other times the air is damp, occafioned by the hills at-
tracting the showers, and the mofs retaining the moisture,
So much is this the cafe, that the pariſh never ſuffers from
want of rain, yet the people are in general healthy.
Soils.-The arable part of the infield land confifts of light
foil, chiefly dry and sharp, upon a gravel bottom; the
other parts of the parish confift of land of the fame quali-
ties; of moffy land of from three inches to two feet deep
of mofs, chiefly wet, upon a clay or gravel bottom; and
of marshy land, the foil of which is a mixture of clay and
fand, upon a bottom of mofs, or clay, or gravel.
Population and Price of Labour.-The number of fouls,
from a liſt taken in 1793, was 593; fince that time it has
diminiſhed, from the coal not being wrought now upon the
lands of Stobs, the property of James Dewar, Efq; of Vo-
grie; but there is a profpect of the number being again
filled up, from a manufacture being about to be eſtabliſhed
in the fame place. Like other parishes in fimilar fituations,
the number of inhabitants has greatly decreafed within 40
years. From a lift of the examinable perfons, or of thoſe
upwards of eight years of age, taken in the year 1772,
their number amounted to 604; and in the year 1755, ac-
cording to Dr Webſter's ſtatement, their number amount-
ed to 905.
3
An
of Temple.
499.
An average of baptifms, marriages, and funerals, taken
for 10 years immediately preceding the year 1733, from
the feffion-records. The average of
Baptifms, in a year, was
Marriages,
Funerals,
311
6+
33
Preceding the year 1794, the average for 10 years of
Baptifms, in a year, was
Marriages,
151
1 1
Funerals,
16
From this, the decreaſe of the population is evident. Of
the preſent inhabitants there is but a ſmall proportion Se-
ceders. The people in general are quiet, and no diſturbers.
of the public peace. They are moftly employed in agri-
culture and pafturage. The fhepherds, inſtead of wages, are
allowed to paſture a certain number of sheep, along with
their maſters flock. They live comfortably in their way,
and not unfrequently make a little money, with which they
ate ſupported in the decline of life, by employing it either
in buying oats, which, when made into meal, they fell, or
by using it in fome other kind of fmall traffick. The wa-
ges
of a hind or cottager may amount to (all his advanta-
ges confidered) from L. 10 to L. 16. His wife in harveſt
works for the cottage they live in; and all his family capa-
ble of work, are obliged to labour, on being paid, for the
farmer, when he needs them. The wages of a man-fer-
vant, who eats in his maſter's houſe, is from L. S to L. 7
in the year; of a day-labourer, from Is. to Is. 2 d. per
day; of women, that work at hay or turnip, 6 d. per day ;
of tradeſmen, from 1s. 6 d. to 2 s. per day. Women fer-
vants get from L. 1, 5 s. to L. 2 in the half
year; they
have
500
Statistical Account
have more wages in fummer than in winter, from the de-
mand for ewe-milkers, and there being more employment
for them in the field at that ſeaſon.
Landed Property and Farming.-The property of this-
pariſh is chiefly vefted in Dundas of Arniſton and Hepburn
of Clerkington, the valued rent of the two remaining heri-
tors amounting only to L. 439: 5: 6 Scots. The valued
rent of the whole pariſh is L. 4399, 10 s. Scots.
A good deal has been done towards inclofing the ground,
and in improving the country by plantations of trees. The
proprietors have alſo been at confiderable pains and ex-
pence to ſecond the natural tendency of the foil to paſtu-
rage, and have, with this view, laid out much of their beſt
land in graſs-fields, cultivated in a fuperior ſtyle, and which
now make great returns. But till of late, the farmers
have ſhown no ſpirit for improvement. Six years ago,
none of them but one raiſed turnip, and ten years ago none.
of them but one raiſed clover and rye-grafs. Since theſe
periods, however, confiderable progrefs has been made, as
will appear by the fubjoined liſt of cattle fed upon turnip.
Much of the land is well adapted to the culture of turnips
and potatoes, and for raifing crops of hay, and thefe modes
of cultivation will probably become more extenſive and
perfect, when the roads through the parish fhall be made
good and eafy for conveying the produce of the foil to
market. The other crops raiſed are barley and bear, oats
and peaſe. The barley is raiſed in the lower part of the
pariſh, and fold to brewers and diſtillers at the fiars of the
county. The bear is raiſed in the higher part, and fold to
the fame perfons at the 2d or 3d fiars. The oats ſown
here are the common oats of the country, known by the
name of Blanflie oats, and red oats, that anſwer well in our
cald
of Temple.
50F.
cold climate upon ſtrong land only *. A few Carnwath oats
are alſo ſown here, they are about 10 days earlier than the
common oats, and produce a greater quantity both of oats
and ſtraw upon bad land than either of the other kinds,
but are long in the body, and huſky. When fown upon good
land, they produce an excellent crop of good grain. The
cats are either fold in the Dalkeith market, the beſt grain
market in Scotland, or made into meal for the uſe of the
farmer's family. The peafe fown are either the late feed,
the Peebles and Magbiehill, or Montgomery peafe. The
laft of thefe is the earlieft. The country is indebted for
them to the late Mr Montgomery of Magbiehill; they
are chiefly made into meal, and ufed in the fame way.
The horſes are improved in fize and ftrength; the cattle
are larger and better formed than formerly; a cow feeds
to from 24 to 34 ftones, an ox to from 30 to 46. The
breed of ſheep is the fame which has long prevailed in the
fouthern diſtricts of Scotland, viz. the black-faced and grey-
faced coarſe-woolled ſheep. They are much better › boned,
from fewer being kept upon the fame ground than former-
ly, and weigh, when fed, from 10 lb. to 16 lb. a-quarter.
As many ſheep are reared in the pariſh, they are difpofed
of in the following manner: Some are fold when lambs
to the butcher; others when hogs, or of one year old;
others as fat ewes; other ewes, when lean, at Martinmas,
wedders,
for feeding or keeping; and a few are fold young
or three years old.
The
*The red oats have been long in this country, and were formerly
known by the name of barley-corn. They were brought from Linton,
Peeblesshire, by Mr Dawfon, farmer at Frogden, Roxburghshire, and
meliorated, by being fown upon his well-cultivated land. They were
introduced lately into this country under the title of red oats.
502
Statiſtical Account
The ſheep, cattle, and horfes, are nearly as follow:
Stock sheep,
6560
Stock of cattle,
331
Sheep grazed and fatted, 1700
Cattle grazed,
375
Sheep fed on turnip,
270
Cattle fed on turnip, 55
Total of sheep,
8530
Total of cattle,
761
Stock of horſes,
92-
Horſes grazed,
Total of horſes,
27
119
Poor. The poor are fupported from the weekly col-
lections at the church-door, from money arifing from let-
ting out mortcloths, from a perquifite upon proclamations
for marriage, and from the intereſt and capital of a ſum of
L. 126 that had been collected when the heritors were re-
fident in the parish. That fum is faft diminiſhing, there
being now no refident heritors, but the fmalleft, who is a
Seceder. Subjoined is a liſt of the receipts and diſburſe-
ments in the years 1753 and 1793:
Receipts in 1753,
Diſburſements ditto,
Receipts in 1793,
Diſburſements ditto,
L. 26 2 21
24 16 81
14 13 5
24 2 11
The difference between the receipts and diſburſements in
1793 was made up by money taken from the capital in the
preceding year. There have been no begging poor in the
pariſh for upwards of 20 years.
Ecclefiaftical Eftablishment.-The ecclefiaftical eſtabliſh-
ment of this pariſh confifted originally of three chapels, one
at Temple, one at Clerkington, and one at Morphet. The
patronage
of Temple.
503
patronage of the first belonged to lands the property of
Dundas of Arniſton, and that of the other two to lands the
property of Hepburn of Clerkington. From the union of
theſe chapels arofe, at an early period, the prefent pariſh
of Temple; and the right of preſentation to it has followed
that of the original eſtabliſhment, Mr Dundas having one
vice of it, and Mr Hepburn two. The ftipend is paid
partly in money and partly in grain, and amounts to L. 82,
16 s. 8 d. at the legal rate of converting grain by the Court
of Teinds. The glebe is fmall, and the value of it to the
miniſter is ſtill farther diminiſhed, by the arable part of it
being at a diſtance from the manfe, and uninclofed. The
manfe is an old houfe, and has lately undergone a partial
repair. The church is an old Gothic building, is ill feated,
and very cold in winter, from having bad doors, and no
cieling,
Manufactures.-There has as yet been no manufacture
carried on in the parish; but lately a company from Eng-
land have begun to build a mill for making gun-powder.
This is the firft erection of the kind in Scotland.
NUM-
504
Statifical Account
1
NUMBER XXV.
PARISH OF MORBATTLE,
(COUNTY OF ROXBURGH, SYNOD of Merse and TEVIOT-
DALE, PRESBYTERY OF KELSO):
By a Lover of ufefu Enquiries.
Situation, &c.
ANY places, on both fides the borders of Scotland
MAN
and England, received their prefent names from war-
like exploits that took place during the unhappy conteft, re-
fpecting the independence of Scotland, in which the two
nations were fo long engaged. It is probable, that the
name Morbattle was given to this pariſh at that period, al-
though the particular circumſtance that gave rife to it is
now, perhaps, unknown. The parish is bounded on the
N. by Linton; on the E. by Yetholm; on the S. by Hou-
nam; and on the W. by Eckford.
Rivers. The principal rivers or waters in the pariſh are
Bowmont and Kale, in both of which the falmon and trout
are
of Morbattle.
505
are to be found. The falmon in thefe, and all the other
waters in this diſtrict of the county, are not now nearly ſo
plenty as formerly; owing, it is believed, to the cruives,
and other machineries placed in the Tweed, a little above
Berwick, by which the fifh, in their paffage up the river,
are intercepted and killed.
Village-The only village in the parish is Morbattle.
The ground upon which it is built was, not very many
years ago, feued out by the Marquis of Tweeddale, for the
terms of nineteen times nineteen years, at the rate of L. 5
per acre Engliſh. The houfes, which are moſtly of one
ſtory high, and covered with thatch, are built and kept in
repair by the feuers. About 380 acres, adjoining to the
village, were, till of late, occupied in two farms, for which
was paid L. 64 of rent annually. Theſe farms, at the ex-
piration of the leafes, were parcelled out into fmall por-
tions, as might beſt ſuit the conveniency of the feuers in the
village. They are now fubdivided into about 26 fmall
pendicles or paffles, for which is paid of yearly rent L. 230.
The greateft fubdivifion pays only L. 22, 10 s. Sterling.
The rife of the rent of this land, which was almoſt altoge-
ther outfield and hilly, is, perhaps, more than that of any
other part of the parish. The ground, inftead of being
rendered worſe by the fmall occupiers, is much improved.
It receives a confiderable quantity of manure, and care is
taken to cultivate every inch of it, in the beſt manner pof-
fible. Being thus improved, it is extremely ferviceable in
helping to fupport many induſtrious families. This village,
when the accumulation of fmall into large farms took place.
in the neighbourhood, ſeaſonably afforded a comfortable a-
fylum to ſeveral farmers and cottagers, who were forced
to abandon the abodes of their forefathers. The inhabi-
tants, who amount to about 200 fouls, are active and in-
VOL. XVI.
duftrious,
3 S
506
Statiſtical Account
duftrious. Some of them find employment in working
their horfes and carts, in agricultural operations; frequently
in carrying lime and coals to the farmers in the vicinity;
and alfo in cultivating the ſmall pieces of land they have in
leafe, without which they could not fupport their horfes.
and cows. Some of the villagers are day-labourers, whilſt
others are occupied at their ſeveral trades and handicrafts, in
the customary work of the country. The leiſure hours of theſe
tradeſmen are laudably filled up in managing their ſmall
paffles, and kail-yards, in which exerciſes they find a more
profitable and healthful amuſement, than they could poffibly
do in frequenting alehoufes or barbarous diverfions, a prac-
tice which too much prevails with many mechanics in fome
of the great manufacturing diftricts of Britain. The wo-
men are employed chiefly in fpinning linen yarn, and ma-
naging their ſmall dairies, principally in making butter
and cheeſe, fome little of which is ufually carried to mar-
ket.
The inhabitants, by thefe means, are happily removed
from the direful fate of abfolute fervitude, and from total-
ly depending on the caprice of others. They have a ſpur
to activity and induftry, from a view of rendering better
their circumflances in life. This excitement, which is one of
the ſtrongeſt principles of human action and felicity, would
be ſtill ſtronger, had they an opportunity of getting in leaſe
more land added to what they already poffefs, in proportion
as they were able to ſtock and manage it, or were ſmall
farms to be got in the neighbourhood. Miferable, indeed,
muſt that claſs of men be, who are deprived of theſe, or fi-
milar excitements to action. The ſtate and manners of
ſociety ſhould every where be ſo formed, that people in the
loweſt ſtations of life may have a foundation on which to
build their hopes of advancing their circumſtances by fru-
gality and induftry. Such a view of their condition has a
great
of Morbattle.
507
; a
great tendency to call forth every active power of the hu-
man nature; to make them combat, with firmneſs, every
oppoſition that may occur, and, with refolution to over-
come the difficulties that lie in the way. Animated with
ſuch a proſpect, they will early acquire habits of induſtry :
A manly ſpirit will ftimulate the whole of their conduct,
and naturally lead them to abhor every unworthy purſuit :
Succeſs, in a greater or lefs degree, will crown their lau-
dable endeavours. A conduct and a refult quite the re-
verſe muſt infallibly characterize thofe unhappy creatures,
whofe lot in fociety precludes them the hopes of ever rai-
fing their condition above that of mean fervitude. The
depreffion of all that is manly in the foul; a rooted envy
at the proſperity of others, which they can never attain
chilling proſpect of nothing but infignificancy, obfcurity
and poverty to themſelves and their offspring; and a long
train of other evils, are the natural confequences of ſuch a
forlorn fituation. Perfons thus depreffed are unavoidably
capable, and frequently willing to engage in the moſt ini-
quitous, baſe, and cruel defigns. To prevent any clafs of
men from falling into fo deplorable a condition, every pre-
caution fhould be taken by the community. This ought
eſpecially to be done with refpect to the department of
agriculture. Encouragement ſhould be given to the mean-
eft fervant of rifing in the line of his buſineſs till he become
a maſter. And are there not many knowing and wealthy
farmers in Britain, who can remember the time when they
were employed in the loweſt ſervice of huſbandry? This
encouragement is indeed held out to mechanics, and to
thoſe engaged in moſt other purſuits of life; but this can
hardly be faid to be, at prefent, the cafe with reſpect to
farming, in thoſe diſtricts, where large farms are univer-
fally adopted. It is not in the nature of things, eſpecially
now when the neceffaries of life have rifen to ſo high a
price,
:
508
Statistical Account
+
price, that a common fervant can, by his whole income of
about L. 15 a year, maintain his family, and at the ſame
time acquire as much money as is requifite to ſtock a large
farm. He and his offspring, if they do not change their
profeffion, uft remain for ever in a ftate of fervitude,
poor, helpleſs, and deſpiſed. It is happily otherwiſe in thofe
places, where there is a proper mixture of great and ſmall
farms. It frequently happens that a fervant, by a few
years induſtry and economy, with a little affiftance from a
friend, accumulates a fum that enables him to commence
farmer on a ſmall ſcale. In this new, but more advanced
fituation, he exerts himſelf by every lawful means in his
power; he is ſpurred on by a laudable emulation; and, at
the expiration of his leafe, is generally able to quit the
fmall and enter on a larger farm. Taught by this gradual
progreſs through the various ſtages of his profeffion, he di-
rects with ſkill, he rules with moderation, and he manages-
with economy. Were the inhabitants, in fome places of
the iſland, favoured with fuch opportunities of rifing in the
line of their bufinefs, it is highly probable that the landed
intereft would find their profit in diminiſhing the extent of
fome of their farms. That it was not alone the accumula-
tion of ſmall into great farms that bettered the condition of
fome diſtricts, but in a great meafure the happy change
that took place in the mode of hufbandry and farming, is
a conjecture that may fafely be ventured. The time is,
perhaps, at no great diſtance, when proprietors of eſtates
will find it as much their intereft to diminiſh, at leaſt, fome
of their farms, as they formerly imagined they did by en-
larging them.
Heritors. The landed property of Morbattle is fub-
divided amongſt twelve heritors; but his Grace the Duke
of
of Morbattle.
500
of Roxburgh has by far the largeſt portion. None of the
heritors but one refide on their property in this place.
Population. As the increaſe of the village is fuppoſed
to be equal to the depopulation of the country part of the
pariſh, when ſmall farms were annihilated, the preſent
number of inhabitants is ſuppoſed to be nearly the fame as
in the return made to Dr Webſter in 1755, which was
then 789.
Agriculture.-Little more than one fourth part of the
pariſh is at preſent under culture. It is certain, however,
from the traces of the plough which yet remain on the
higher grounds, that much more of this and the adjacent
country was anciently under tillage than at preſent. It is
generally believed, that, during the long and cruel contex
between the two kingdoms, a great portion of the lands on
the borders were kept under white crops, as it was not fo
eafy for the plundering parties, in theſe unhappy times, to
carry off crops of grain, as it was, had the land been in
paſture, to drive away the cattle.
bandry is carried on here with great fpirit, and is confider-
ed as one of the chief improvements of agriculture in this
country. Large fields of turnips are purchaſed by the gra-
ziers for feeding off with ſheep. The very fmall quantity
of lint that is produced in the pariſh is moſtly dreffed or
fcutched by the hand at the owner's houſes.
The drill turnip huf-
Manufactures.-Artifans and tradefinen are far from
being numerous in the pariſh, there being no more than are
neceffary to ſupply the inhabitants in cuſtomary work, in
which are employed 4 weavers, 6 wrights and joiners,
2 fmiths, 3 mafons, 5 tailors, I fhoemaker. Tailors con-
tinue the practice of working in their employers houſes,
and
510
Statistical Account
and receive 8 d. a-day, and their victuals. Wrights have
1 s. a-day and victuals, or 1 s. 6 d. without them. A ſmall
quantity of linen-yarn is fpun, fome of it on the double-
handed wheel. This inftrument was introduced from Fife-
fhire into this parish and neighbourhood, about 15 years
ago, by Mrs Morriſon, wife of the Reverend David Morri-
fon, miniſter in the Seceding meeting-houſe at Morbattle.
But little more yarn is fpun than what is neceffary for pri-
vate uſe. The women in this part of the country being
accuſtomed to work much in the agricultural operations of
the field, are little difpofed for fedentary employments, and
therefore, in general, fit down to the ſpinning wheel with
great reluctance. From the preſent difpofition and habits,
both of males and females in this place, the introduction of
manufactures among them would not, it is probable, meet
with great fuccefs.
Church. The prefent church was built in 1757, and
is a commodious place of worship. The ftipend, including
the manſe and glebe, is worth about L. 160. The Duke
of Roxburgh is patron. The Reverend James Richardſon
fills at preſent the charge. A meeting-houſe, adhering to
the Antiburgher Seceders, was, a confiderable number of
years ago, erected in the village of Morbattle; where a
clergyman of that perfuafion regularly officiates, to a pret-
ty numerous congregation collected from all the neigh-
bourhood.
School. The falary annexed to the parochial ſchool is
100 merks Scots, with a free houſe and kail-yard. The
ſchool-wages are 1 s. 6 d. for teaching the English language ;
2 s. for writing, and 2s. 6d. for arithmetic and Latin.
The number of ſcholars is, at an average, about 25. His
perquifites for the feffion-clerkship are 4 d. for every bap.
tifin
of Morbattle.
SII
tiſm that he enrols in the parochial records, and 2 s. 6 d.
for every proclamation of marriage, with a trifle for wri-
ting teftimonials, or certificates for character. His income
receives an addition of L. 3 or L. 4 a-year, for collecting
the poor-rates in the parish. But this and the feffion clerk-
ſhip do not belong to him as ſchoolmafter; they are given
him at the option of the heritors, minilter, and feffion. The
whole income, however, is too fmall for enabling a teacher
of youth to live in a manner fuitable to the ſtation of ſo
public a character. The feffion-records of this pariſh com-
mence in 1697. No regiſter of burials is kept.
Poor.-About 16 indigent perfons are commonly on the
feffion-roll. Their principal fource of fupport is L. 1600,
3 s. 8 d. Sterling, that was, a good many years ago, be-
queathed to this parish by Mr John More, a native of
Morbattle, who made his fortune in the Eaft Indies, where
he died. The money was left to the management of the
heritors and kirk-feffion of Morbattle, and bequeathed prin-
cipally for the fupport of orphans and infirm old people.
It is lent out for intereft on landed fecurity. Partly owing
to this fund, the number of poor is probably greater than
otherwiſe it would be, as people from the neighbouring
pariſhes refort here, from a motive of being fupported in
old age, A ſmall aſſeſſment on the parish is fometimes
found to be neceffary. The collections at the kirk, amount-
ing to a very ſmall fum, is commonly distributed by the
feffion to occaſional poor.
Diſeaſes. This part of the country is not remarkable for
any uncommon or peculiar diſeaſe. The inhabitants are
generally healthy and ftrong, and many of them live to a
good old age. The ſmall-pox makes fometimes great ha-
vock among the children; and inoculation, the beſt remedy
3
yet
512
Statiſtical Account
yet known for that loathfome difeafe, is not much prac
tifed.
Antiquities.-The remains of ſeveral encampments, and
rows of ſtones, called tryft-ftanes, are antiquities, probably
of the moſt ancient date in the parish. The tryft-ftanes are
commonly on high ground. They are placed perpendicu-
larly in rows, not unfrequently in a circular direction. It
is faid, as alfo the name imports, that, in times of hoftilities,
they marked the places of refort for the borderers, when
they were affembling for any expedition of importance.
The ruins of Whitton-caſtle and Corbet-houſe are the only
remains of large buildings or places of ftrength in the pa-
rifh.
Miſcellaneous Obfervations.-The roads in the parish, of
which none are turnpike, are very far from being good,
and are often almoſt impaffable. Two public houfes (fmall
enes) in the village ferve the inhabitants and paffengers
with refreſhment. Formerly there were four mills in the
pariſh; now two are found to be fufficient to grind all the
corn that is needed by the inhabitants. About 20 acres
may contain all the growing wood in the pariſh, and theſe
were but lately planted. The chief dependence for fuel is
on coal brought from the English border, and which fells
at a high price. There are a few peat-moffes in the parish,
but the people, in general, are fo much occupied in the field,
during fummer, that the cafting and preparing of peats are
greatly neglected.
NUM-
:
513
of Wemyss.
NUMBER XXVI.
PARISH OF WEMYSS,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF FIFE, PRESBYTERY OF
KIRKCALDY).
By the Rev. Mr GEORGE GIB, Minifter.
Name, Extent, and Surface.
THE
HE name of the pariſh is ſaid to be Gaelic, and figni-
fies a Cave, in allufion to the number of natural
caves on the fea-fhore, near the village of Eafter Wemyss.
Hence, too, all that tract of ground between the lower part
of the water of Ore and the fea, was, in old times, called
Wemyfsfhire. The parish is diftant from the Prefbytery-
ſeat about three miles. Its greateſt length, which is from
S. W. to N. E. will not exceed 6 miles, nor its greateſt
breadth 14. It is bounded by the parish of Dyfart on the
W.; by Markinch on the N. and E.; the water of Leven
feparates it from a ſmall part of the parish of Scoonie on
the N. E.; and the frith of Forth washes it on the S. The
ground, which is in fome places high along the fhore, af-
VOL. XVI.
terwards
3 T
:
1
514
Statiſtical Account
terwards rifes gently to the N. The fhore, from high
water mark outward, is lined with rocks, which are not
high, being moftly covered at high water.
Climate and Diſeaſes.-Like all the S. and E. fhore of
Fife, being much expofed to the E. winds in the ſpring
months, it is unfavourable to pulmonic complaints, but in
other refpects, the climate cannot be faid to be unhealthy.
Some of the fishermen are afflicted with calculous con-
cretions: and the reafon which they generally affign for
this, is their being fo much expofed to cold with wet feet.
Many children die of the fmall-pox in the natural way. In
the village of Buckhaven upwards of 30 were lately cut
off. It is to be hoped, however, that the prejudice againſt
inoculation will not in future be ſo general as it has been.
Many perfons live to upwards of 80; and within theſe
two years, 3 perfons have died above 90.
Villages.-Wefter Wemyfs is a burgh of barony, with
2 bailies, a treaſurer, and council. There are other 3 vil-
l'ages on the coaft, viz. Eafter Wemyfs, Buckhaven, and
Methil. There are 2 villages in the country called E.
and W. Coaltowns.
Soil and Agriculture.--The foil varies both in the coun-
try and on the coaft. In fome places it is fine black loam;
in others light and brown, ſometimes approaching to fand ;
and a ſmall part, particularly in the N. W. corner, is cold
and wet. It is all arable, and, with a few acres excepted, pro-
duces good crops of wheat, bear, beans, peaſe, oats, potatoes,
and turnip. The farmers are, in general, active and in-
duftrious, and attentive to every improvement in agricul-
ture. In farms near the villages, land is let to trades
people for planting potatoes, who muft all afford manure,
hand-
of Wemyss.
5IS
3 the
hand-hoe their potatoes, and pay at the rate of L.
acre. By this means the farmer procures a quantity of
good manure, has his ground well cleaned, and an excel-
lent crop of wheat or bear the following year. The plough
ufed is Small's, which is drawn by two horfes, and held
and managed by one man. There are no ſheep, but a few
kept by Colonel Wemyfs for family-ufe, and they are of
a very fine kind. There are 16 farms, which are rented
from L. 25 to upwards of L. 400 a year.
A confiderable quantity of land near the coaft is rented
by land-labourers, who refide in the villages, and though,
with many of them, farming is only a fecondary object,
yet the land in general is well laboured, and produces good
crops. Almoſt all fow fome turnip for their cows in win-
ter, and feed their horfes with potatoes, which are generally
boiled and mixed up with light corn. The fea-weed, or
ware, which is driven in by the fea all along the ſhore,
makes excellent manure when ſpread immediately after it
is carried to the land. This land, which is ufually called
the Acre-land, lets from L. 1, 10 s. to L. 2, 15 s. the acre.
Plantations. There is but little old wood, excepting
fome at the caftle of Wemyfs. The late proprietor, the
Hon. James Wemyfs, Efq; inclofed a great part of the pa-
rish; fome of it with ftone and lime, and other parts with
ditches and hedge, and planted many thoufands of trees;
and his fon, the prefent proprietor, is going on with the
fame plan. He has inclofed much, and for theſe 6 years
paft has planted, of various kinds, upwards of 200,000 trees
every year, in different places. All the plantations are in
a very thriving way, and in a few years will both warm
and greatly beautify the grounds.
Fishing
516
Statistical Account
Fishing and Buckhaven.-From the fcarcity of haddocks
for fome years, feveral of the fishermen have entered into
the navy, or on board merchant-fhips, and others have be-
come day-labourers in country work. Formerly there
were in Eaſter Wemyfs 5 boats, with 5 men each, and
one in Wefter Wemyss, with 5 men, and now there is only
one boat in Eafter Wemyfs, and the crew confift of old
men. In Buckhaven, the fiſhing is ftill continued with
little alteration in the number of fiſhermen; and though
fish are much ſcarcer than formerly, yet the fiſhermen are
in ſome meaſure compenfated by the high price, and cer-
tain market for thofe they catch. The fish ufually caught
are haddock, cod, turbot, ſkate, whitings, foles, flounders,
makarel and herring. A confiderable quantity of lobfters
and crabs, or partons, (and fometimes a few cray or craw-
fish) are taken, with trap-creels let down into the fea upon
the rocks near the fhore. A worthy fiſherman affured me,
that he has known, about 40 years ago, 25,000 haddocks
caught by the fishermen of Buckhaven in one day, which
were fold from 6 d. to 10 d. the 100; now more is fome.
times given for a fingle haddock. At prefent, moſt of the
fifh caught here are fent to the Edinburgh market, and the
reft are fold in this neighbourhood by women, who carry
them in creels on their backs. When fishing was plenty,
few of the fish caught in this parish were fent to Edinburgh,
becauſe then the fishermen in the Eaft of Fife carried their
fifh to that market, and thofe being taken in deeper water,
and confequently larger, were always preferred. At that
time moſt of the fish caught here were fold in the neigh-
bouring burghs, or 'bought up by men who carried them
in creels on horfes to a confiderable diftance, where they
found a good market. This laft gave employment to many
in the pariſh; and a few years ago, fome of them had got
Beat carts fitted up for the purpoſe; but of late, they have
been
1
of Wemyss.
517
been obliged, in a great meaſure, to give this up, both from
the fcarcity and high price of fiſh. Twelve boats, with
6 men in each, uſed in the month of Auguft, to go from
this parish to the herring-fishing off Dunbar, but the en-
couragement for fome years paft was fo fmall, that they
had entirely abandoned it. There is now, however, a
proſpect of this fishing being revived by the appearance of
herring in the Bay of Inverkeithing; if there is encourage-
ment, the fiſhermen here will not fail to improve it.
The fishermen in Buckhaven generally marry when
young, and all of them marry fishermens daughters of the
fame village. I am particularly indebted to a very inge-
nious and intelligent General for a letter written by my
late amiable and worthy predeceffor, the Rev. Dr Harry
Spens*, when minifter of this pariſh, (dated Wemyss, 20th
Auguft 1778), from which the following particulars re-
fpecting the original inhabitants of Buckhaven, c. are
tranfcribed:
66
66
"As far as I have been able to learn, the original inha-
"bitants of Buckhaven were from the Netherlands about
"the time of Philip II. Their veffel had been ſtranded
on the fhore. They propoſed to ſettle and remain. The
family of Wemyfs gave them permiffion. They ac-
cordingly fettled at Buckhaven. By degrees they ac-
quired our language and adopted our drefs, and for theſe
"threefcore years paft, they have had the character of a
"fober and fenfible, an induſtrious and honeft fet of people.
"The only fingularity in their ancient customs that I re-
"member to have heard of was, that of a richly orna-
"mented girdle or belt, wore by their brides of good con-
"dition and character at their marriage, and then laid afide
He published an English tranſlation of Plato, de Repub.
" and
518
Statistical Account
and given in like manner to the next bride that ſhould
"be deemed worthy of ſuch an honour. The village con-
"fifts at prefent of about 140 families, 60 of which are.
"fishers, the reft land-labourers, weavers, and other me-
"chanics."
Minerals and Fofils.-There is a great quantity of free-
ſtone, but in general of a reddiſh colour, open and porous,
and apt to crumble when much expofed to the weather.
There is limeſtone, but it is faid not to be of a good quali-
ty; perhaps it would have been more valued had lime been
in lefs abundance in the neighbourhood. Ironstone has
latele begun to be wrought; but what deſerves here parti-
cularly to be noticed is the excellent coal with which this
par abounds, and which has been wrought for fome cen-
turies. In the weft ground of the parish, befides what is
called Dyfart coal, (which is 21 feet thick, with 3 feet of
coarfe coal left for a roof) of which a very extenfive field
remains to be wrought in the eftate of Wemyss, there are
other 10 or 11 workable feams of coal, moft of which have
been wrought above the level of the fea. The principal
feam of the 10 or II is now working between 50 or 60
fathoms below the furface. This feam is 10 feet thick,
but 8 feet of it is only wrought, viz. 5 feet of very fine
fplint, and 3 feet of free, the other 2 feet being left for a
roof. The water is raifed by a fteam-engine. The coal
is brought to the pit-bottom by horfes under ground, and
then raiſed by horie-gins. Coal for exportation is driven
in large waggons from the pits to the harbour of Weſter
Wemyss. The other feams in this part of the parish, which
have been wrought, are all entire below the level of the
fea, excepting one, a fmall part of which was wrought near
the lea, about the year 1656, at which time the water was
drawn off by horfes.
2
In
of Wemyss.
519
·
In the east ground of the parish there are ſeveral work-
able feams of coal. The Right Hon. David Earl of
Wemyfs, (a nobleman of a great and public ſpirit, who
kept a particular account of the coal, written with his own
hand, mentions feven feams of coal which he had cut
through in making a level mine from the fea-fhore, which
he drove upwards of 600 fathoms acroſs the metals. In
working this level in 1671, he obferves, "I am ftill work-
“ing that level in ſtone, with two men in it day and night
"(except Sundays). I give them 10 s. Scots a-day, their
"bearers 4 s. Scots a-day, the windles men get 6s. Scots
66
a day or night. I fharp their picks and furniſh their
"candles." The only feams that have been wrought in
this part of the pariſh for a confiderable time were, one 8
feet thick, and 20 fathoms from the furface, and another
much about the fame thickneſs, and 7 fathoms deeper. The
main coal is 12 feet thick, of an excellent quality, and was
always preferred at the foreign markets. It was formerly
wrought to a confiderable depth by two engines, at Kirk-
land of Methil, which were driven by the water of Leven.
To the S. of Kirkland this coal is cut off by a hitch or
dike, which throws it down 30 fathoms. This has lately
been cut out under the care of a very ingenious and active
engineer, and the coal is now working level free. A wag-
gon-way of 2 miles from the pits to the harbour of Methil
is now completed, and every thing promiſes an extenfive
trade; and indeed, from this feam of coal, with others ly-
ing contiguous, it would not be at all furprifing to fee, in a
few years, Methil rank among the first coal ports in Scot-
land *.
Sait.
David Earl of Wemyfs, in his remarks on Methil, obferves, that
the Biſhop of St Andrew's did create it into a free burgh of barony in
1662,
520
Statistical Account
Salt.There are 9 falt-pans at Methil, and 7 at Wefter
Wemyfs. Theſe works have been long carried on, and
much falt is made at them, both for land-fale and exporta-
tion.
Manufactures, Commerce, &c.-Almoſt every fubftantial
family uſed annually to make a few pieces of good linen,
from yarn of their own ſpinning, which was wrought by:
weavers in the parish, and generally bleached by the pro-
prietors themſelves, and then fold in the public markets
held in this and the neighbouring parishes for the purpoſe.
In this way the weavers had been employed time imme-
morial till about the year 1750, that fome in Eaſter
Wemyss began to manufacture linen themſelves, and ever
fince this bufinefs has been extended and improved. The
linen now made is generally well known for its quality
and fineness. Moft of it is made from Scotch flax, the
greateſt part of which is fpun in the parish. It is thought
by manufacturers to be fuperior to any in the country;
and in confirmation of this, it may here be obſerved, that
the premiums given by the truſtees for linen and fheeting
were adjudged for 5 years fucceffively to manufacturers in
this parish; to one in the years 1785 and 1786, and to an-
other in the 1787, 1788, and 1789. Since the latter pe-
riod, the number of looms has increaſed, and the manu-
factory varied; part of the looms being now employed in
weaving checks and ticks for manufacturers in this and the
neighbouring parishes. There are about 120 looms em-
ployed.
At
"1662, called Methil, with a weekly mercate on the Wedneſdays, and
"two public fairs in the year, viz. one on the 22d June, St John's day,
and 27th December, alfo St John's day in winter, in that year 1662,
and fo for ever, holden of him and his fucceffors, Biſhops of St An-
drew's, paying him yearly 20 9. Scots as a feu-duty for ever."
of Wemyss
521
At Kirkland, in the N. E. extremity of the pariſh, on
the river Leven, near the ports of Methil and Inverleven,
a large fpinning work has been carried on for fome time,
by fome gentlemen of London and Dundee, under the firm
of Aiſlabie, Nielfon, and Company. They fpin a confi-
derable quantity of cotton and linen yarn, particularly of
the latter, which they have begun to manufacture into
cloth. Their yarns are approved of, and they are believed
to be going on very ſucceſsfully. The fituation of this
eſtabliſhment is a very advantageous one, and it is capable
of great extenfion, as well for bleaching and printing, as
for ſpinning the yarns and manufacturing the cloth. The
company already employ about 300 people, and the bufi-
neſs ſeems to be increaſing. Previous to the eſtabliſhment
of this work, there were at Kirkland only two or three
houſes, but now a number of very neat and convenient
houfes are built, and in a fhort time it is probable that it
will be a confiderable village. Kirkland is faid to have
been the place first propofed by the Carron Company for
eſtabliſhing their works.
A little to the weft of Kirkland is a waulk or fulling-
mill, and dye-houfe, where bufinefs has been long carried
on, and is confiderably increafed of late years. There is
only one corn-mill in the parish, but there are others
equally convenient on Colonel Wemyss's property, lying
in the parish of Markinch.
The maritime commerce has much increaſed of late.
There are 10 ſquare-rigged veffels and one floop belonging
to this parish, whofe regifter meaſure may amount to up-
wards of 1480 tons. They are moftly employed in the
carrying tradě. They are generally loaded with coal out-
wardly, and bring home wood, iron, flax, &c. from the
Baltic to the different ports in the frith of Forth. Some
VOL. XVI.
3 U
of
522
Statistical Account
of them have been freighted to the Mediterranean, Weft
| Indies, and America; and one is at prefent engaged by
Government in the tranfport fervice.
At Wefter Wemyss two ship-carpenters began to build
ſhips about ſeven years ago.. The fituation is good, and
they have found great encouragement. They employ
about 18 apprentices, and feveral journeymen. Here fome
of the best veffels which have failed from the frith of Forth
for the Weſt Indies have been built, as well as fome for the
Baltic trade. Other two fhip-carpenters have just begun
to build at Methil, a moft convenient fituation for the bu-
finefs, and it is thought that they will meet with equal en-
couragement with the former.
A gentleman in Eafter Wemyfs, who carries on a confi-
derable brewery, lately began to import wood from the
Baltic, which has been of great advantage to the neighbour-
hood; and from the rapid and extenfive fale which he has
met with, cannot fail to fecure benefit to himſelf.
There are properly no merchants in the parish, with the
above exception. Some perfons fell a fmall quantity of
neceſſary articles; but as there are opportunities every day
of being provided with thefe at a cheaper rate from Kirk-
caldy, they meet with no great encouragement.
The fea-weed on the rocks upon the fhore is cut every
3 years, and yields about 100 tons of kelp. The time of
cutting is in June and July.
There are two good harbours in the parish. One at
Methil, which was built by the Right Hon. David Earl of
Wemyss about the year 1650, folely at his own expence.
The other is at Wefter Wemyfs, but when built is un-
known. It was fome years ago greatly improved by a
bafon for cleaning it.
Exports
of Wemyss.
523
Exports and Imports.-Coal and falt are the only exports.
The quantity differs according to the demands. At an
average there is fhipped at Wefter Wemyfs annually 6000
tons of coal, moftly for Amfterdam, Hamburgh, and
Middleburgh, being of a quality particularly fuited for light-
houſes. The light on the iſland of May, at the entrance
of the frith of Forth, is fupplied from this coal *.
About 40,000 bushels of falt are annually fhipped from
this pariſh for the different ports from Dundee to Inver-
nefs.
The imports are mostly oak-timber for fhip-building,
Memel and Norway timber, deals, &c. Gottenburgh iron,
deals and battons; in all about 1o cargoes in the year.
Bridges and Roads.-There are no bridges in the pariſh,
but a ſmall one over a rivulet that paffes through Eafter
Wemyfs, nor is there any need for more. The turnpike-
road from Kirkcaldy to Cupar by Kennoway, and to the
eaſt of Fife, paffes through the north part of the pariſh;
but from its diſtance from the coaft, being near 1 mile,
the greater part of the inhabitants reap little advantage
from it.
Inns.-There are properly no inns, but there are a fuf-
ficient number of houſes where ale and fpirits are fold.
Price of Provifions and of Labour.-The price of provi-
fions and of labour has confiderably advanced of late years.
The price of butcher meat is from 4 d. to 5 d. a-pound
tron, at different ſeaſons of the year; of butter, from 7 d.
to
* As there is now a pretty certain proſpect of the great coal in the
eaft part of the pariſh being again wrought, it is probable that a much
greater quantity of coal will be exported from the port of Methil.
524
Statistical Account
to 10 d.; of a hen, from I s. to I s. 4 d.; of chickens, from
7 d. to 9 d. a pair; of eggs, from 3 d. to 5 d. a dozen.
The wages of men fervants are from L. 6 to L. 8 a-year;
and thoſe who have houſes of their own, and maintain
themſelves, have 6 bolls of meal, with an allowance of
milk, and ſometimes, in lieu of milk, L. 1, 6s. Day-la-
bourers have from March to October 1 s. 2 d. a-day, and I s.
the rest of the year. Mafons 1 s. 8 d. and carpenters or
wrights 1 s. 6 d.
Population.-According to the account given to Dr
Webſter in 1755, the number of fouls amounted to 3041.
The following is a pretty accurate lift taken in the year
1791:
Wefter Wemyss,
Families. Males. Females. Total.
235 353
416
769
Eaſter Wemyss,
153
268
289
557
Buckhaven,
163
277
324
601
Methil,
81
153
161
314
E. and W. Coaltowns, 93
166
227
393
Country, including Kirkland, 71
191
200
391
796 1408
1617
3025
Total in 1755,
3041
Decreaſed,
16
Lift
of Wemyss.
525
:
Lift of Births and Marriages, taken from the Pariſh Regiſter,
for 10 Years*.
Births.
Male. Fem. Tot.
Marriages.
1782,
26 32 58
29
1783,
28 36 64
10
1784,
34 20 54
33
1785,
34 43 77
35
1786,
47 60 107
13
1787,
37
35 72
21
!
1788,
1789,
43 53
53 96
24
35 39 74
21
1790,
49 55 104
25
1791,
44 33 77
17
Total,
783+
228
Population has certainly increafed in fome of the villa-
ges, particularly in Eafter Wemyss and Methil; but it nas
greatly decreaſed in the country part of the parish. In
the feffion-records, there is mention of many places, of fome
of which no veftige can now be traced; and that which
remains of others, is only a few afh-trees, which were ufu-
ally planted round their gardens or kail yards. This
decreaſe is owing to the fame cauſes which have in gene-
ral operated in other parts of the country, viz. the mo-
nopolizing
*The people in this parish are remarkably attentive to regiſter their
childrens births; and of the above lift of marriages, both bridegroom and
bride, with a few exceptions, belonged to the parish. There being two
burying-places befides the church-yard, and no proper register of deaths
kept, the number of burials cannot be afcertained.
During the above period there were 8 times twins.
526
Statiſtical Account
nopolizing of farms, the introduction of two-horſe ploughs,
inclofing, and a greater proportion of land laid out in graſs.
Ecclefiaftical State, Heritor, &c.—The church is an old
Gothic building in the form of a cross; there are evident
marks of confiderable additions to it, but no dates that can
fix its age. It was repaired and much improved in 1792,
and is now a well-lighted, warm, and decent place of wor-
hip. The church and manſe are in the thriving village of
Eafter Wemyss, the moſt centrical part of the parish. The
patronage belongs to the Town-council of Edinburgh. It
belonged to the family of Wemyss till about the 1214,
when Sir John de Wemyfs* gifted it to a religious houſe
at Soltray in Mid-Lothian. The reafon he affigned for this
donation is in theſe words, pro anima mea, et anima
"Comitis Duncani, et pro animabus patris et matris."
Colonel William Wemyfs of Wemyfs, Efq; member of
Parliament for the county of Fife, is fole heritor of the
parish, and his family refides in it at the caftle of Wemyss.
The ftipend, as fettled by the Court of Seffion February
1794,
is L. 50 of money, 64 bolls of meal, 32 bolls of bear,
and L. 5: 11:1 for furniſhing communion-elements.
The manfe was built in 1791, and, to the honour of the he-
ritor, it is one of the beſt in the country. Moſt of the old
offices were removed in the fame year, and a part of the
old manſe was fitted up to fupply their place. The fite
of manfe, garden, and offices includes about an acre of
ground, incloſed with ftone walls. The glebe contains be-
tween
* This Sir John was the firſt who took the firname of Wemyfs. Till
about this time firnames were not uſed in Scotland. They only added
either their father's name after their own, or fome epithet expreffive of
fomething which referred either to body or mind.-BUCHAN. Hift. rer.
Scoticar. lib. 7.
of Wemyss.
527
tween 8 and 9 acres, and is all inclofed *. There are ſome
rocks and fea-weed, which belong to the miniſter, and as
this property is near the glebe, it is of great advantage for
manure. For the kelp from the rocks the prefent incum-
bent has received about L. 5, 5 s.
every three
5, 5 s. every
years.
There was once a parfonage and vicarage at Methil, the
patronage of which was difponed by Archbishop Hamilton
to Sir John Wemyss of Wemyfs, who died in 1571t.
The following Perfons have been Minifters of this Parish
fince the Revolution.
Rev. Mr Archibald Riddell, admitted October 1691, and
tranſlated to Kirkcaldy June 1697.
Rev. Mr Thomas Black, tranflated from Strathmiglo Oc-
tober 1697, and tranflated to Perth July 1698.
Rev. Mr James Grierfon, ordained September 1698, and
tranflated to Edinburgh July 1710.
Rev. Mr John Cleghorn, tranflated from Burntifland Fe-
bruary 1711, died at Wemyss February 1744.
Rev. Mr Harry Spens, ordained November 1744, and
tranflated to the Profefforfhip of Divinity in the Univer-
fity of St Andrew's, October 1780.
Rev.
*A confiderable quantity of flax is railed in this parish; and the
glebe, from the following remark, will appear to be no unfavourable foil
for it. The Rev. Dr Spens fowed one year 9 lippies of lintfeed, which
yielded from the mill 18 ſtones. In 1787, the prefent incumbent fowed
3 lippies, which he winnowed from his preceding crop, and it yielded
from the mill 7 ftones. The fame year he fowed 2 lippies of foreign
feed, which only yielded 2 ftones 10 lb. It may be of fome advantage to
obferve, that the lint 1787 was pulled before it was fully ripened, and
great care was taken in the watering of it. Much lint is loft from being
too long in the water.
+ This Sir John Wemyfs, fays Bishop Leflie, " upon the head of the
"Gentlemen of Fife in 1547, gave the Engliſh, who landed in the coun-
ty, a confiderable defeat, and killed about 700 of them."
16
528
Statistical Account
Rev. Mr William Greenfield, ordained September 1781,
and tranflated to Edinburgh, November 1784.
The preſent incumbent was ordained March 1785.
Catechift.-The Right Honourable George Earl of Cro-
martie, in 1705, in teftimony of his great affection and ho-
nour to the memory of Margaret, heirefs and Countess of
Wemyfs, and Counteſs of Cromartie, his deceaſed Lady,
mortified a ſmall fum of money for founding a ſtipend or
falary to a catechift, for catechifing and inftructing the
coaliers and falters, and others in the parish of Wemyss, to
be paid yearly to the kirk-feffion of Wemyss, under the
care and direction of the family of Wemyfs, and mini-
fter of the pariſh, for ſaid uſe, and the payment to be made
on the firſt day of January Old Style, being the birth-day
of that illuftrious Countefs. The gift of prefentation is in
the family of Wemyfs, and the prefentee to be tried and
admitted by the minifter and kirk-feffion. The prefent
catechift is the first on the eſtabliſhment; he was admitted
in 1749; his falary is L. 250:34 Scotch money, and
the intereft of L. 50 Sterling.
School. The fchool-houfe was built in 1694. The
ſchoolmaſter's falary is L. 6: 13: 4. He has a houſe and
garden. The number of ſcholars in winter is about 60,
and in fummer 40. The fees per quarter are, for English,
I s. 2 d.; English and writing, I s. 6 d.; arithmetic, 2 s.
Latin, 2 s. 6 d.; book-keeping and navigation, a guinea for
each. As precentor and feffion-clerk, he has yearly L. 2,
10 s. and 12 s. 6 d. every time that the Lord's Supper is
difpenfed; for each marriage 2 s. 3 d. and each baptifm
10 d.; for parochial certificates about a guinea a year.
There are feveral private fchools.
I
I
Poor.
<
520
of Wemyss.
1
Poor.-The number of poor who receive regular ſupply
from the kirk-feffion on an average is 39, each of whom
receive from I s. to 2 s. 6 d. the month. There are others,
not upon the roll, who receive annually 5s. fometimes
more, to enable them to pay their houſe-rent; and ſeveral
others receive occafional fupply, as circumſtances require ;
the annual amount of all which is from L. 50 to L. 60, rai-
fed by the weekly collections at church, the dues of pall or
mortcloth, and the intereft of L. 300.
Diffenters.-There are but few Diffenters in the pariſh.
There is a Burgher meeting-houfe at Buckhaven, but has
no minifter. Thofe of the Antiburgher perfuafion have
places of worſhip in the parishes of Dyfart and Markinch.
There are about 24 who join the Prefbytery of Relief, and
6 of the Epiſcopal perſuaſion.
Antiquities, Caftle of Wemyss, &c.-Under this article
may be ranked the ruins of the caftle of Eafter Wemyss,
ufually called Macduff's Caftle, and faid to have been built
by Macduff, who was created Earl of Fife about the 1057,
and on whom King Malcolm Canmore conferred many
very uncommon privileges. Two fquare towers, and a
confiderable part of a wall that has furrounded the caftle,
ftill remain. It is fituated on a delightful eminence, about
100 yards from the ſhore.
In the 1290, on the death of King Alexander III. the
Eftates of the kingdom fent Sir Michael Wemyss of
Wemyss, and Sir Michael Scot of Balweary, in the pariſh
of Abbotſhall, as ambaffadors to Norway, to bring home
Princess Margaret, grand-daughter to the late king, and
undoubted heirefs of the Crown of Scotland. Fordun, in his
hiſtory, fays," Nobiles Scotiæ duos milites, fcientia et mo-
"ribus præclaros Michaelem Wemyfs et Michaelem Scot
"ad Regem Norvegia, folemniter direxerunt." Bucha-
VOL. XVI.
3 X
nan
539
Statiſtical Account
nan ftyles them, "Equites Fifani illuftres." They went
to Norway; but unhappily for them and their country,
the Princefs died at Orkney on her paffage to Scotland.
As a monument of this honourable embaffy there is ſtill
preferved in the caftle of Wemyss a large filver baſon, of
an antique figure, which was given by the King of Norway
to Sir Michael Wemyss.
Perhaps, under this article fhould alſo be mentioned a
ſtone, on the turnpike-road, about one-third of a mile after
entering the pariſh from the eaft; it has ſtood time imme-
morial; is 4 feet in height above ground, and 3 feet dia-
meter, by fome called the Standing Stone, by others the
Half-way Stone between Kirkcaldy and Kennoway. For
what reafon it was placed there, the writer could never
learn any thing fatisfactory.
The caftle of Wemyss, fituated a little to the caft of the
burgh of Wefler Wemyss, and clofe by the fhore, on a
cliff between 30 and 40 feet above the level of the fea, is a
large and magnificent building. When it was built is un-
certain, but part of the eaft wing is faid to be near, if not
as old as the caſtle of Eafter Wemyfs. It received confide-
rable additions about the beginning of the 17th century,
from the Right Honourable David Earl of Wemyss, and
his grandfon, being Lord High Admiral of Scotland, raiſed
a good wall, in the form of a fort, upon a beautiful bowling-
green, and placed a few cannon to anſwer falutes from ſhips
as they paffed. The prefent proprietor laid out a piece of
ground, fome years ago, in a garden, with high walls, an
elegant green-houſe, hot-houfes, c.; and it is faid that
there are few, if any gardens in Scotland, where there is fo
much forcing as in this. It was in the caftle of Wemyss
that Lord Darnly had his firft interview with Queen Mary,
13th February 1565. The Queen was at this time on a
tour of vifits in Fife, which, fays the famous John Knox,
caufed
:
of Wemyss.
531
saufed wild fowl to be fo dear, that partridges were fold
at a crown a-piece.
Perhaps in few pariſhes has land been longer in the pof-
feffion of one family than in this. Hugo, or Eugenius,
fecond fon of Gillimacheal, 4th Earl of Fife, and grandfon
of Macduff, the firft Earl, got from his father the lands of
Wemyfsfhire, &c. &c. and his defcendent is preſent pro-
prietor of them. Gillimacheal was witneſs to the founda-
tion-charter of the Abbey of Holyroodhoufe in the 1128.
The lands of Wefter Wemyss have been uninterruptedly
poffeffed by the noble family of Wemyss fince the above
period. The lands of Eafter Wemyfs went off from the
family, and were poffeffed by a family of the name of Li-
vingſton, and then by the Colvills of Ochiltree; but after
200 years ſeparation, they were again added to the eſtate of
Wemyfs, by the Right Honourable John Earl of Wemyfs,
who was High Commiffioner to the General Affembly of
the Church of Scotland in the year 1641.
Caves. It was obſerved, that the pariſh derives its name
from the number of natural caves in it. There are ſeven
a little to the eaſt of Eaſter Wemyfs, and all but one about
100 yards from high-water mark. Four of them were
long ago fitted up for, and ftill are pigeon-houſes. There
are two at the bottom of the cliff, and immediately under
the ruins of the caſtle of Eaſter Wemyfs; one of them is
called Jonathan's Cave, from a man who, with his family,
refided fome time in it; the entrance to the other is very
narrow, but after having got through it, you find yourſelf
in a very ſpacious place, in which is a well of excellent.
water; it is annually vifited by the young people of Eaſter
Wemyss, with lights, upon the first Monday of January
Old Style, but from what this cuſtom took its rife the wri-
ter could never learn. The feventh (the neareſt to the
hore)
532
Statiſtical Account
fhore) is called the Court Cave, and two reafons are affign-
ed for the name; one is, that when the lands of Eafter
Wemyss were the property of the Colvills, they here held
their baron-court; another, that King James IV. in a fro-
lick once joined a company of gypfies, who were here
making merry, and when the liquor began to operate, the
gypfies, as ufual with people of their character, began to
quarrel among themſelves; upon this his Majeſty attempted
to mediate between the parties, but they, ignorant of the
rank of their new affociate, were about to handle him
pretty roughly for his goodneſs, which obliged the King to
diſcover himself; in allufion to this affair, the cave was
afterwards ironically called the Court Cave. There is an-
other cave a little to the eaſt of the caſtle of Wemyfs, and
much about the fame diſtance from the fhore as the for-
This cave, which is about 200 feet in length, 100
in breadth, and 30 in height, was fitted up about 60 years.
ago by a tackſman for a glafs-work; but foon after the work
commenced, the man became bankrupt, and the buildings
were allowed to go to ruins.
mer.
Advantages and Difadvantages.—The pariſh derives
great advantage from the abundance of coal; and when
fiſhing was plenty, living was much cheaper here than in
moſt places. One diſadvantage which the commercial part
labour under, is the want of a poft-office. Though Dyfart,
which is the neareſt poft-town, is. not at a great diſtance,
yet as letters cannot be anſwered the fame day on which
they are received, without fending them by expreſs to the
office, much inconvenience is thereby occafioned, which
could be eafily remedied at a very fmall expence, as the
poſt-boy paffes through Eafter Wemyss on his way to
Leven.
Character.
of Wemyss
533
Character.-The people in general are fober and indu-
ftrious, regular in their attendance upon public worſhip,
and apparently contented with their fituations *.
NUM-
* At a period when the abolition of the flave-trade has become the
fubject of Parliamentary conſideration, the following anecdote may not
be diſagreeable, as being perhaps the firſt proceſs of the kind that came
before the Court of Seffion :-A gentleman from the Weft Indies, re-
fiding ſome time at Methil, a negro fervant, whom he had brought with
him, embraced at that time the Chriſtian religion, and was baptized in
the church of Wemyss, September 10. 1769, by the name of David Spens.
Soon after this his mafter refolved to fend him back to, and fell him as a
flave in the Weſt Indies; but Spens getting information of it, imme-
diately left his maſter, and went to the houſe of a farmer in the parish.
The maſter then raiſed a proceſs before the Court of Seffion against Spens
to return to his flavery, and againſt the farmer for adviſing him to deſert,
and alſo for protecting him. To defend Spens from the oppreffion of his
maſter, and to affift him in afferting, what they conceived, his just rights
and privileges as a Britiſh ſubject, the inhabitants of the parish readily
eſpouſed his cauſe, and raiſed a confiderable fum of money. The caufe
was enrolled January 1770. Four lawyers were engaged; and on the
2d February, the caufe was ably pled on both sides. Memorials were
appointed to be given in for both parties; but foon after this the maſter
died, and the caufe was dropt. To the honour of the lawyers engaged
for the defendant, viz. Meflrs Crombie, Al. Ferguſon, Hay and Beliches,
Advocates, and Mr Walter Ferguson, writer, agent, none of them
would accept of a fee.
1
534
Statistical Account
NUMBER XXVII.
PARISH OF SLEAT,
(COUNTY OF INVERNESS, SYNOD OF GLENELG, AND
PRESBYTERY OF SKY).
By the Rev. Mr MARTIN MACPHERSON, Minifter.
&
Origin of the Name, &c.
AS is the cafe in moft etymological remarks, nothing
certain can be faid as to the word Sleat. It is moſt
probably Daniſh, and may poffibly allude to the peninfu-
lar fituation of the place; it is a fact, that the names of
many of the farms are in that language, ſuch as Oftaig,
Tarſkvaig, Saaſaig, Toakvaig, and Mourfaig; that is to
fay, Eaſt Bay, North Bay, South Bay, &c.
Situation, Extent, and Produce. The pariſh is ſtretched
N. E. and S. W. forming an extent of 17 Engliſh miles
along the fea, having the mainland of Scotland oppofite to
it on the eaſt, viz. the diſtricts of Glenelg, Knoydart, Mo-
rar, and Arifaig, the breadth of the channel varying from
a quarter of a mile to two leagues. Sleat is bounded on
3
the
1
of Sleat.
535
the W. and N. by the parish of Strath. The breadth of
the parish is from one mile to three and a half, being, like
all parts of the iſland of Sky, interfected by different arms
of the fea.
The two extremities of the parish confift of confiderable
tracts of tolerable paſture-ground, well calculated for rear-
ing black cattle, equal in quality to any the neighbourhood
produces; indeed, the whole weft fide of the parish is made
up of a pleaſant mixture of arable and rough ground; and
there one may likewiſe find three confiderable ſtools of na-
tural wood, confifting of oak, afh, elm, birch, arm, rone-
tree, hazle, willow, and other aquatics.
Wood is peculiar to this part of the island of Sky, there
being hardly a tree, natural or planted, excepting here; it
may be fuperfluous to add, that this contributes much to
the ornament, not to fay uſefulneſs of the different tenures
on which this valuable commodity grows.
The eaſt fide of the parish, particularly from the farm of
Knock to Tormore, forming an extent of five miles in
length, and from one to one and a half in breadth, is arable,
the foil being deep clay, in fome places of a bluiſh, in others
of a reddish colour, exceedingly adapted to ditching and
hedging; produces middling crops of oats and potatoes,
though, in fpite of its fouthern expoſure, the harveſts are in
general late, owing to the ground being damp, and in fome
places fpouty, added, as was formerly mentioned, to its
clayey texture; it cannot however remain a doubt, that
by proper attention to incloſures and ditches, (fhould en-
couragement offer), an induſtrious farmer would here find
a good fubject to fpeculate and practiſe upon. The barony
of Sleat is now fubdivided into 26 different farms or tene-
ments, which at a moderate calculation, may fow about 20
bolls each, in all 520. There is hardly any barley, the
fea-ware growing on the shore being almoſt entirely laid
out
536
Statiſtical Account
but in manuring potatoes. That uſeful root is much, and
indeed neceffarily cultivated here, the inhabitants living
great part of the year on potatoes, and various forts of fifb,
chiefly herrings, fhoals of which regularly and providen-
tially make their appearance in almoſt all the bays and
Lochs round the iſland, about the 20th of July, and gene-
rally remain in lefs or greater bodies till the middle of De-
cember. Nature, indeed, feems to have made fome pro-
vifion for the fupport of the inhabitants of this land, as the
fh cafts up nearly at the time that the meal is confumed.
There may be planted in the parish of Sleat about 300
bolls of potatoes. Their meaſure is a herring-barrel filled,
of fuch they allow three to a boll; what proportion this
bears to the legal meaſure in the Low Country, I know
not, but there may be 900 barrels planted annually, but it
is to be underſtood, that this is almoſt altogether done in
the lazy-bed way. What attaches the inhabitants to this
mode of planting potatoes is, that they conceive the ground
requires lefs preparation than when planted in the drill.
Of oats there are from 4 to 6 returns; potatoes from 10 to
14; there have been from 34 to 38 returns in the drill
way, but this held nowhere but in fmall fpots, where the
preparation of the ground was much attended to. There
are only 12 ploughs in the parish; the other implements
of tillage are garden and crooked fpades. Lintfeed is fown
here with fuccefs, though in fmall quantities, but enough
to show that the ground is well adapted to fuch purpoſe.
The fuel is entirely turf or peat; it is unneceffary to de-
fcribe the proceſs of cutting and drying it; but I am forry
to obſerve, that this article takes up a great proportion of
the farmer's time, and that very often their labour is in
vain, particularly when the latter end of fummer, and the
beginning of autumn, happens to be rainy, which unfortu-
nately is too often the cafe in the Weſtern Highlands, and
this
of Sleat:
537
this circumſtance muſt make the husbandman and grazier
bid adieu to all regular calculation.
At a moderate calculation, there may be 2600 head of
black cattle in the parish. It is impoffible to ſay exactly
what number is annually fold, as the fales muft depend upon
a number of contingent circumftances. The breed of hor-
fes is ſmall, and entirely uſed for the different purpoſes of
agriculture, the number may be 250 or thereabout. As to
ſheep, the number in the pariſh is fo few, that it is hardly
worth the calculating. Such as can afford to eat mutton are
obliged to purchaſe from the neighbouring sheep walks.
Population. In the year 1755, the number of fouls in
the pariſh was 1250; and now, notwithſtanding emigra
tions, and repeated drains to the army, the inhabitants a-
mount to 1788. The proportion of males to females is as
5 to 6; the number of deaths for years back is from 18 to
28; marriages from 9 to 14; births at an average 40.
There are now eight men in the parish upwards of 80; of
women above that age, five; of that number, one is 98,
and another 95.
Antiquities.-There are two caſtles in this parish tole-
rably confpicuous; 1ft, Dunſkaich, built upon a rock, on
the weft fide of Sleat; the communication betwixt this
rock and the oppofite fide was kept up by a draw-bridge,
but from the appearance of the mafon-work on that fide of
the caftle, the arch feems to be modern; the building on
the weft fide has every appearance of antiquity, part being
circular, and covered from top to bottom with ivy. There
has been a prifon and draw-well; all this feems to infer,
that the edifice was reared at different times, and perhaps
in different ages; he must be an ill-informed reader that
VOL. XVI.
3 Y
does
538
Statistical Account
does not know that this caftle is much celebrated in the
well-known works of Fingal. At the diftance of three.
miles on the eaſtern ſhore ftands caftle I' Chamuis, i. e. the
Caſtle at the end of a Bay. This ftructure is likewiſe
partly ancient, partly modern, one fide being circular, and
covered with ivy, the other being built in the common
ftyle of mafonry. This caftle held out a fiege, if I remem-
ber well, in the reign of James IV. from the Macleods,
who had obtained the Royal fanction for committing de-
predations on the country. The fiege was raiſed in a great
meaſure through the addrefs and intrepidity of a lady,
ftyled, Mari Chaiftail, i. e. Mary of the Caſtle, her refi-
dence being probably in the caftle or neighbourhood pre-
vious to the fiege; it does not, however, appear, that this
heroine fhared the fame fate with the Maid of Orleans.
There are befides five duns, of which hardly any thing re-
mains but the name; fuch as, Dun-Phaick in Kilmore,
Dun-Flo in Tormore, Dan-Geilt in Carradle, Dun-Iflay in
Oftaig, Dunan-Choinach; the three firſt are Daniſh. At
Dun-Flo there may be feen a number of human bones, a
party of King William's troops having landed from a ſhip
of a Captain Porringer in the month of September 1688,
after having burned the houfe of Sir Donald Macdonald,
were by the natives forced to reimbark after a fkirmiſh,
in which the Royalifts were defeated with the lofs of 26
men. Dun-Iflay feems to have taken its name from the
following circumftance; a party of the inhabitants of that
iſland, at a very remote period, landed in the neighbour-
hood of this rock, where they fortified themfelves, and
were at length cut off by the inhabitants.
·
Church-The parish-church was built in the year 1681,
and has lately undergone repairs; it is the largeſt ftructure-
of
of Sleat.
539
of that fort in the ifland. There is no manſe or defigned
glebe, the prefent incumbent being accommodated with a
farm and tolerable manfion-houſe. The ftipends amount
to no more than the minimum, viz. 800 merks Scots, com-
munion-elements, according to fome mens opinion, in-
clufive. The King is Patron; Lord Macdonald fole heri-
tor.
The real rent is L. 1300 Sterling, or thereabouts.
All the inhabitants are Prefbyterians.
School. There is a parochial fchool, in which moſt
branches of literature are at prefent taught by James Be-
verly, a native of Aberdeen, the number of fcholars at-
tending varies from 25 to 40. The falary and emolu-
ments of the ſchool may amount to L. 24 Sterling. There
has been no Society-fchool fince the year 1778.
Poor. They are in number at this time 25, who are
ſupported in ſome meaſure by the collection. They have
been of late years much obliged to the donations of a gen-
tleman, who is a native of this country, (a fon of the late
incumbent of this parifh), Sir John Macpherfon, once Go-
vernor-General of Bengal.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.-There are no made roads
in this parish. There is an excellent and well-known har-
bour, Ifle Ornafay, a good deal frequented by fhipping,
though they are generally ſmall, owing to its local fitua-
tion; there is anchorage for veffels of almoſt any fize; I
have often feen 100 fail riding at once in the bay, chiefly
herring-buffes; now and then, indeed, ſhips from the Baltic
touch here. Wages of men-fervants are from L. 2 to L.
Sterl. each, befides fhoes; the wages of women from 12s. to
L. 1, and fhoes. I conceive it unneceffary to give any ſort of
3
general
540
Statiſtical Account
general character of the genius or temper of the inhabitants;
it is probable that fome of my neighbouring brethren may
have favoured the public with fuch difquifitions, of courfe
their information may fatisfy the reader as to the manners
and cuftoms of the parishioners of Sleat, there being natu-
rally much fimilarity, by reafon of the contiguity of the
parithes. I deem it likewiſe ſuperfluous, if not imperti-
nent, to give any opinion as to the manner in which this
part of the country is treated by the Legislature, or more
properly ſpeaking, by thoſe in power, as it is to be ſuppo
ſed, that in a proportionate degree the fame attention is
paid to it, as to the reft of the empire.
NUM -
of Peterhead.
541
NUMBER XXVIII.
PARISH OF PETERHEAD,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF ABERDEEN, DISTRICT OF
BUCHAN, AND PRESBYTERY OF DEER).
By the Rev. Dr MOIR, Minifter.
THE
Name.
HE prefent name of this pariſh is Peterhead, formerly
called Peter's-head, ſuppoſed to be derived from the
promontory which lies between the town and the fea, the
Ταιξαλον οι Ταιζαλον ακρον of Ptolemy, and to have the name
or
of Peter, from being dedicated to a faint, or the Apoſtle of
that name; though this is entirely conjecture. Some think
the name has its derivation from the Greek word Пerpos,
or the French word Pierre, each of thefe fignifying a rock,
on which the town is founded; others, that it takes its
name from a Highland chieftain, called Peter, or Patrick,
having loſt his head on a plundering expedition to this
pariſh; in ſupport of this opinion, they ſay Auchtiegall,
the name of a farm about two miles from the town, figni-
fies in Erfe, The place where the Highlanders ftood; and
that
542
Statistical Account
1
that Cairngall, now in the parish of Longfide, formerly
part of this parish, was the place where they were encamp-
ed. What truth is in either of theſe conjectures, or if they
deferve any credit, I leave to antiquarians to determine;
only obferving, the derivation from the Greek or French
appears to have little foundation, as Peter was part of the
name of this pariſh before any part of the town was built;
befides, the town was formerly called Keith Inch, and re-
tained that name till 1593, when it obtained a charter as a
burgh of barony.
Ancient Extent.-The moſt ancient name of this pariſh
was Peter Ugie, which is to be found in many charters. It
was formerly of much greater extent than at preſent, and
extended weftward on both fides of the Ugie (or its
branches) in fome parts nearly nine miles. In 1620, a
great part of this pariſh was taken off, to form, with a part
of Crimond, the parish of Longfide, which for fome time
was called Western Ugie.
Situation.—The parish is fituate in the county and Sy-
nod of Aberdeen, diftrict of Buchan, and prefbytery of Deer;
it is nearly 5 miles long from N. to S. and from 3 to 4
from E. to W.; bounded on the S. by the parish of Cru-
den; by Longfide on the W.; the water of Ugie, which
feparates it from the parish of St Fergus, on the N.; and on
ibe E. by the German Ocean.
Surface. The pariſh is in general flat, with fome little
eminences, which can fcarce be called hills; but from thefe
little eminences, and the hollows formed betwixt them,
the view is a little varied, and from the luxuriancy of the
foil, were belts or clumps of trees interſperſed more fre-
quently, of which there are very few, it would have a
pleaſant
2
of Peterhead.
543
pleaſant appearance; the S. and S. W. part being termi-
nated by mofs and moor, has rather a bleak afpect; but
the N. part has a variety of objects to attract attention and
pleaſe the eye; the old caſtles of Raven's Craig and Inver-
ugie, formerly feats of the Earl Mariſchal; the river Ugie, a
fmall plantation of timber, ſome elegant farm-houſes, the
arches of the bridge of Inverugie, a windmill, a profpect
of the town, and fpire of the town-houſe of Peterhead, ter-
minated by the fea, with a continued field of rich and fer-
tile foil, capable of the higheſt cultivation, render the pro-
ſpect very delightful. Moſt of theſe objects are obſerved
from the high road; but on ftepping afide a few hundred
yards to Mount Pleafant, they are feen to greatest advan-
tage, with a few trees, venerable for their fize and anti-
quity, contiguous to the houſe of Inverugie, a corn-mill and
extenſive bleachfield on the north fide of the Ugie, with the
purling ſtreams, ferpentine turns, and verdant banks of
that river, which, taken altogether, form one of the richest
and moſt beautiful landſcapes in Buchan.
The farther account of this parish will be divided into
two parts, the country and the town; I fhall firſt begin
with the country part of the pariſh.
How of Buchan-About a mile weftward from the
town is placed what is called the How, or Holm of Buchan,
either from being the lowest part of that diſtrict, or from a
very ſtriking peculiarity, that on ſtepping afide but a few
yards from the high-road with houſes in your view on each
fide, and going down a very ſhort declivity, you ſoon ſee no-
thing before you or above, but a gentle rifing of the ground
and the firmament. I am apt to think this peculiarity cannot
now be found, from the erection of fome houſes lately in the
parish; at leaſt, I have examined the fpot, without obfer-
ving the fame appearances which were there 30 years ago.
The
544
Statistical Account
The ground in the parish riſes gradually from the ſea to
the weſtward, nearly to the extremity of the pariſh in moſt
places. The only eminence that can be called a bill, is
the Stirling Hill, which feparates this pariſh on the S. from
the pariſh of Cruden. The higheſt part of this hill is ſcarce-
ly 200 feet above the level of the fea. In time of war,
perfons often refort there to obferve if any fhips are on the
coaft; it is feen at a confiderable diſtance at fea, and was
of great fervice to the fiſhers on this coaſt as a land-mark,
before they carried a compaſs in their boats, which is only
a late precaution, and ftill not generally uſed.
Bays.-There are two bays in the parish, the bays of
Peterhead and Invernettie. The bay of Peterhead is formed
by the town and neck of land, which projects betwixt it
and the fea on the N.; this promontory is called Chalk
Inch, Keith Inch, and Greenhill, is unqueftionably the
eaftermoſt point in Scotland, and ought to be called Bu-
channefs. The bay is terminated on the S. by the lands of
Invernettie, terminating in a point called Satie's Head. The
other bay is formed from this point on the N. and part of
the lands of Boddom, the termination of the Stirling Hill
on the S.; this point is called Boddom-head; but in charts,
and by moſt ſtrangers, is ftyled the Buchannefs. The di-
ftance from Boddom-head to the eaſtermoſt point of Keith
Inch, is about 3 miles; and a line drawn through theſe two
points is confiderably to the eastward of Satie's Head,
which divides theſe two bays. The shore on the ſouth fide
of the parish is rocky and high; at the head of each
bay there is a fandy beach. In the bay near to Boddom-
head, there is a ſmall rock about half a mile, or a little
more, from the land, called.Skerra, in maps denominated
Craig Hurlie, where people often go to gather dilfe, where
fome fea-fowl refort, and where the free mafons of this
town
of Peterheads
545
town uſed ſometimes to hold their meetings, when mem-
bers were admitted into their fociety, and before the pre-
fent Keith Lodge was erected in the town of Peterhead.
The bay of Peterhead affords a very fafe anchorage for
ſhips of any burden, in all ſtrong gales of wind from the
weſt, W. N. W. or W. S. W. and when they blow from
this quarter with any degree of violence, moſt ihips going
either to the N. or S. are obliged to return hither for fhel-
ter; and in particular, when the wind blows from W.S. W.
they can fetch no harbours on this coaft, nor either the
frith of Cromarty or Forth, and their only place of refuge
is the bay and harbour of Peterhead.
Prefent Extent.-I know of no accurate furvey of this
parish, which afcertains precifely the number of acres in it;
I think they may be eſtimated at 7000; 5coo of which
may be arable, and 2000 mofs and moor, which moſtly lie
in the S. and S. W. parts of the pariſh.
Soil. The foil is of great variety, from a fandy loam
and hazly thin foil, to a rich deep black earth, and a ſtrong
clay foil; I am of opinion the greatest part of the arable.
land, from the nature of the foil, is capable of as high cul-
ture, and, if properly managed, would produce as weighty
crops as the fame extent of land in moft parts of the
country.
Air-The air is cold, when compared with that in other
parts of the country, at leaft in fummer; in winter the
frofts are not near fo intenfe as in other places; the air is
rather moiſt. In fummer there is a mift or fog proceeding
frequently from the fea, which fometimes extends no far-
ther than the town of Peterhead, and which is often pecu-
liar to this parish, but it is by no means unwholeſome, and
VOL. XVI.
3 Z
though
546
Statistical Account
*
1
though ftrangers complain of it, I do not think their health,
or the health of the inhabitants injured by it.
Diſeaſes.-There are no diſeaſes peculiar to this pariſh;
rheumatifm, phthifis pulmonalis, fcrofula and toothachs
appear to be moft frequent. In 1782, the influenza was
very prevalent, but not fatal, excepting in two old perfons..
The putrid fore throat has within thefe few years made.
its appearance, and has proved fatal in many inftances.
Notwithſtanding the moiſture of the air of Peterhead, there
is no inſtance of a real intermittent fever or ague being
hatched in this parish. Many people have agues, but they
bring them from Holland, the fea-ports in the Baltic, the
fenny counties of England, or the ſouth of Scotland.
Pleurifies and peripneumonies are rare, though they
fometimes happen.
Fevers are very frequent; but whatever appearance
they may affume at firſt, they generally terminate in a low
nervous fever. From a very attentive obfervation and
extenfive experience, I can ſpeak with confidence of the
danger of blood-letting in general in fevers, unleſs there is
appearance of inflammation on fome particular part.
There is, however, a general prejudice in favour of this
practice; when a perfon falls fick, he firft bleeds, and then
confults his phyfician.
Mineral Waters.-There are a number of chalybeate
fprings in this pariſh, and a very ſtrong one in the town.
Lakes and Rivers.-There are no lakes in this parish,.
and only one river called the Ugie; this river confifts of
two ſeparate ſmall rivers, which take their rife about 18
or 20 miles from the fea; they are called the waters of
Strichen and Deer, from paffing by in their courſe theſe
two
of Peterhead.
547
two villages; the two branches unite in one ſtream about
five miles from this place, and then take the name of Ugie.
The tide flows about a mile and a half up this river, as far
as the bridge of Inverugie, which is very neat, conſiſting of
two arches, and was confidered of fuch importance to this
country, as to obtain an act of Parliament for its erection in
the reign of James VII. Small coafting veffels may enter
the river with the tide, and fometimes come in, but very
feldom; it might, however, be eaſily rendered navigable, at
leaſt a canal might be made to communicate with the river.
Such a plan has been in contemplation, the expence has
been calculated by engineers, and I am informed it might
be executed ſo as to reach a village in the centre of a very
fertile and populous part of the country, about 10 miles
from the ſea, at a leſs fum than L. 4000; but no exertions
have yet been made to carry this into effect, though the
proprietors of the ground through which the canal muſt
paſs, are in very affluent circumftances, and by means of it
I the greateſt advantages would accrue to a large diſtrict of
their property. In this parish there are feveral ſmall ri-
vulets or ftreams of water running in different directions,
in which there are a few trouts and eels; from thefe rills,
or ſmall burns, four mills are fupplied with water for grind-
ing grain into meal and malt, and there is one mill on the
Ugie for the fame purpoſe; there is one windmill near the
town of Peterhead, on a ſmall eminence, for grinding malt,
and which lately, by a fmall addition to the machinery,
ftrikes pot (pearl) barley.
Salmon, &c.-In the water of Ugie there are falmon of
an excellent quality. Thefe are feldom caught before the
month of April, and from that time till the firft of July are
in greateſt perfection. There are great varieties of fine
trout, finnocks, eels, minnows, and flounders in the river.
The
548
Statistical Account
The rent of the falmon-fiſhing is L. 100 Sterling; and the
number of barrels caught annually is at an average from
50 to 60; a few, for fome years, have been pickled for
the London market, owing to the tackfmen, who refide in
Peterhead, having very extenfive connections with that
branch of trade elſewhere.
per pound, formerly at 2 d.
ground of complaint for the
dering the high price this article gives in other parts of
the country. There are no pikes nor fhell-fish in the river,
except the pearl muſcle, in which pearls of value are fome-
times found.
Fresh falmon are fold at 21 d.
There can, however, be no
price being advanced, confi-
Loch of Myrefide.—I have faid there are no lakes in this
parish. In winter, however, a fmall loch is formed in one
part of the pariſh, a confiderable extent of ground being
overflowed from the particular fituation of the adjacent
fields, and the ditches not being kept in proper order to
carry of the ftagnate water, called the Loch of Myrefide,
where perfons tond of fkating fometimes find amuſement,
when it is frozen over with ice, and where wild ducks,
wild geeſe, and fometimes fwans refort in winter. The
lands overflowed by the water are meliorated in the foil,
and would be more fertile if the ditches were kept in pro-
per order.
Sea-Fib.-There is great variety of fish caught in this
pariſh on the coaſt, and of an excellent quality, fuch as had-
docks, whitings, flounders of all kinds, roughback, plaife,
fole, halibut, turbot, fkate, dog and cat fish. The lobſter
and crab, and other fpecies of cancer, are common; the
lobſters formerly were more frequent, and purchafed in
great quantities for the London market; there are at pre-
fent not above 4000 annually fent from this pariſh. The
fishers
of Peterhead.
549
fishers complain of the difficulty of finding them, and are
hired to fish for them, in other places in the Murray Frith,
where they are more fucceſsful, and where one man will
gain from L. 20 to L. 30 Sterling during the fiſhing ſeaſon.
The haddocks and cod are in abundance; great quanti-
ties of each are fold freſh to ſupply the town and country
at a confiderable diftance, and from 400 to 600 barrels are
falted, and fent from this parish to the London market every
year. Great quantities of large cod and ling are catched
in the ſpring on Rattrayhead, and on a bank which lies
from 30 to 40 miles east of this town. They are dried
upon the rocks, and after fupplying the demand in this
part of the country, are fent to the fouth country, where
they find a ready market, and defervedly are in very high
eftimation. They fell here from L. I to L. 1, 10s. the
dozen; about 3 d. each pound; and are caught chiefly by
the fiſhermen of Boddom. The greateſt part of the cod's
founds, in this parish are permitted to remain and rot on
the ſea beach, or are caft into the dughill, though the uſe
and value of them as an article of food and delicacy at
table have been known here for many years.
The crews
of the fhips that have been ſent from this town to Barry-
head, preſerve the founds, tongues, and palates of the cod
caught there, and the owners have always found a ready
market for them. The haddocks are in ſeaſon and greateſt
perfection in the months of May and December. Cod are
good at any time of the year; of late the haddocks have
been of a larger ſize than uſual; this ſeaſon they are very
fcarce.
From the dog fiſh a confiderable quantity of oil is ex-
tracted; the fiſh is feldom eaten in this place, frequently
bought to be caft into the dunghill; a good number are.
carried into the country, and are reliſhed by fome country
people. The livers of twenty dog fiſh will produce one
Scotch
550
Statistical Account
Turbot is now
Thirty years.
Scotch pint of oil, in value I s. Sterling, and the ſame num-
ber are fold at three half pence, which are purchaſed to be
carried to the country for food, or for the dunghill, and,
properly mixed with earth, make an excellent manure,
They are generally caught in the months of July and Au-
guft, and employ the whole attention of fiſhermen at that
time, ſo that ſcarce any other fish is caught.
caught frequently, and in great perfection.
ago they were feldom ufed here, frequently caft into the
| dunghill, or left to waſte on the fea-beach. They at pre-
fent fell from 4 d. to I s. Sterling each, and are rifing eve-
ry day in the price. This is one evidence of the ſtyle of
living being much changed in this place. Greater quanti-
ties might ſtill be caught if eels were uſed for bait; the
eels that are found here are fometimes employed, and an-
fwer better than any other bait. The lamprey eels might
be tried, which are found in England, and are purchaſed by
the Dutch in large quantities, from whom many leffons.
might be obtained in the article of fishing. They fish for
cod on this coaft every fummer, and for herrings, which
frequently are very numerous; but none are caught here
by the natives of this place, though they are perfectly ac-
quainted with the manner of catching them, and ſend ſeve-
ral ſhips every year to the Hebrides for that purpoſe. Laft
year in the Murray Frith, within twenty miles of this
place, herrings were in fuch plenty, that children, fitting on
a rock on the ſhore, and dropping a line with two or three
fmall notched hooks faftened at the end of the line, and
pulling it up brifkly, caught the herrings by the belly in
great numbers, which were fold through the country at a
very ſmall price. At that time I do not recollect to hear
of a ſingle ſhip on the coaft employed in catching them.
The cat fish, though reckoned a delicacy by fome people,
is feidom ufed here. There are great varieties of gray
fish,
!
1
of Peterhead.
551
fiſh, called feaths, podlers and baddocks, which appear to
be of one fpecies. Mackarel is likewife found here in great
I
perfection, and fells from 1 d. to 2 d. each. They are ge-
nerally caught with a white feather faſtened on a hook,
the boat failing with a quick motion. The ufual bait for
fifh caught here, are haddocks, flounder, cod, fand eels,
limpets, log, fhrimps, muffels and crabs. The muffels are
brought from the Newburgh at the mouth of the Ythan,
about fifteen miles from this place.
Fishing Towns.-There are two fishing-towns in this pa-
rish, the town of Boddom and the Ranheads in the town of
Peterhead. In the fea-town of Boddom, there are at pre-
fent five boats which pay rent to the proprietor. Theſe
employ thirty hands. There were lately fix boats; one of
them was loft at fea with four of the men; it has not fince
been replaced. Many of the young men of that town are
now failors. There are befides two ſmaller boats in town
for the old men.
The fhore of Boddom is very rocky
and high. The town is placed on the top of a precipice, a
few feet only from the brink of it. There are fix caves
betwixt the town and the fouthern boundary of this pa-
rish. Some of them are very high, and run in within the
land fixty yards; one of them is immediately below the
town, and fome of the houſes are above the arch. In the
caves, vaſt numbers of pigeons and cormorants conftantly
refide.
On the eſtate of Boddom are the veftiges of fome falt
pans, falt having been manufactured there in the laſt cen-
tury. The whole mofs of Boddom is faid to have been
exhauſted by ſupplying fuel for making the falt; and Sa-
tie's Head, formerly mentioned as a head-land, forming the
boundary of the bay of Invernettie on the north, is ſaid to
have
552
Statiſtical Account
have derived its names from being in the neighbourhood of
the falt manufacture.
Sea Animals, Shells and Plants.-There are no remark-
able fea-animals. The feal, porpoiſe and ſtar fiſh are to be
found. There are ſome ſponges and coralines, and vari-
ous kinds of fhells, fome of them beautifully turbinated.
The fea-plants are babby-ware, tangles, badderlocks and
dilfe. The ware is ufed as a manure; from 40 to 50 tons
of kelp are made annually and exported. Dilfe and bad-
derlocks are reckoned a great delicacy by many people,
particularly country people, who refort here to the mine-
ral well in great numbers in fummer, and would not think
the water could have any effect, if they did not eat them in
great quantities.
Tide. The tide flows from the north from Rattry-head
in the parish of Crimond fouth and fouth-eaft, and ebbs
north and north-weft. In ſpring tides it runs three miles
and a half in an hour. In fome places from head-lands cloſe
in ſhore, there is a confiderable variation, and currents in
different directions, and only understood by the pilots,
who are perfectly acquainted with them.
Light-houfes.-There are no light-houfes in this parish.
I have often thought it would be of the greateſt benefit to
ſhips if one was erected on the Stirling hill, which is a land-
mark in the day-time to fhips at fea; but I am informed
by feafaring people, though it would be a proper place.
from that circumſtance, yet, from the frequent mifts at ſea,
it would not eafily be obferved from fo high a place; but
there is little doubt of a light-houfe being uſeful, and even
neceffary, either on the Keith Inch in this parish, or on a
fmall eminence in Broadland oppofite to Rattry-head in the
parish
I
of Peterhead.
553
I
parish of Crimond, which is nearly half way betwixt this
town and the light-houſe at Kinnaird's head, in the pariſh
of Fraserburgh, at the mouth of the Murray Frith. That
light is probably of great fervice to prevent ſhips being
wrecked on Rattry-head which come from the north and
down the Murray Frith; but ſhips failing to the northward
are frequently wrecked on Rattry-head, or rocks near it,
before it is poffible for them to fee the light-houſe at Kin-
naird's head; and I have reaſon to think it will be found,
that there have been as many, if not more wrecks from
Rattry-head to the Buchannels fince that light-houfe was
erected, than at any period during the fame length of time
before it was eſtabliſhed.
Battles.-There is no tradition, or any account in hiftory
with which I am acquainted, of any battles in this pariſh,
or fea-fights near the coaſt. There is a tradition of a duel
or accidental rencounter betwixt two men a long time ago.
One of the parties was killed, and buried in the fpot where
he fell. This is not above two hundred yards diſtant from
the manfe, and though placed in a fertile field, which has
frequently been ploughed and trenched, the grave remains.
to this day untouched.
Forts and Moat.-There are two forts fituate about two
or three miles weft of the town, both of ſmall extent. The
moat, parapet, foot-bank, baſtions, &c. are very conſpicu-
ous. One of them is called Bowan's hillocks, probably
Bowness, from being erected when bows were uſed. The
other is at Mount Pleafant, directly oppofite to the houſe of
Inverugie, in the parish of St Fergus.
There is a fmall moat on a little eminence, called the
Mete-bill; a mound of earth evidently artificial, and
4 A
which
554
Statistical Account
1
which probably in former times was a place for diftributing
juftice during the feudal government.
Old Cafiles.-There are two old caftles in the parish.
1ſt, Old Craig or Raven's Craig, formerly, and for a long
time, the feat of a branch of the Marifchal family. It
ſtands on the fouth fide of the Ugie, in the north-weſt part
of this parish. At a very diftant period, it has been a
place of very great ftrength, and, before the introduction
of gun-powder, could have refifted any attack. There are
evident marks of the river having been carried round the
houſe. The walls are very thick, and fortified round.
Though daily mouldering, the greateſt part ſtill remains.
Foxes lodge below the ruins, and ravens hatch their young
on the top of the walls. Two finer ruins are ſcarce to be
feen than the Raven's Craig in this parish, and Inverugie
in the parish of St Fergus, on the oppofite fide of the river,
about half a mile's diſtance. The eftate and parish of St.
Fergus firſt belonged to the Cheynes, but the two caftles
by intermarriages became the property of the Mariſchal
family *.
2dly,
*As the noble family of Marifchal had, for many centuries, in their
poffeffion the parishes of Peterhead and St Fergus, fome account may be
expected of them.
Cambden and Boethius fay, that the family of Keith derive their origin
from the Celti, a people bordering on the Saltus Hireinus, who gave the
firſt check to the conquefts of the Romans in the time of Auguſtus Cæfar,
but being routed in the reign of his fucceffor Tiberius, part of them fet-
tled under their leader Battus, at the mouth of the Rhine, and from his
name the country was called Battavia. In the reign of Corbridus II.
furnamed Goldus, King of Scotland, the Batavian Celti fent a colony to
ſeek habitations in Britain, and ſome of them, whom Fordune calls Cella
Melibai, were driven upon the northern coafts of Scotland, and fettled in
that part now called Caithness.
Iņ
of Peterhead.
555
1
zdly, Boddom Caſtle, built a long time ago by a family
of the name of Keith, a branch of the Mariſchal family, op-
pofite
In the time of Malcolm II. who began his reign in 1004, a complete
victory was obtained over the Danes, under the command of their Gene-
ral Camus at Barry, a few miles below Dundee. This victory is, by the
Scotch hiftorians, chiefly attributed to the valour of the Celti, under the
command of Robert their leader, who is faid afterwards to have killed
Camus in fingle combat. In regard of fo great fervice, the King was plea-
fed inftantly to bestow upon Robert the honour of knighthood, and
created him Heritable Great Marifchal of Scotland, (but not a Peer),
which office his pofterity continued to enjoy until the attainder of George
the roth Earl Mariſchal in the 1715. The King beftowed ſeveral lands
on Robert, particularly fome in East Lothian, called from his name and
office Keith Marifchal, and the fmall iſland in the Forth, called Inch
Keith. It is not very eaſy to ſay when the family became poffeffed of the
eſtate of Raven's Craig in this pariſh; the houſe is ſuppoſed to have been
built in the 12th century, and to have been inhabited by ſome of them till
a connexion was formed by one of the family marrying a Miſs Cheyne,
heiress of Inverugie, in the parish of St Fergus.
Sir Robert Keith, Great Marifchal, who is faid to be the thirteenth ge-
neration in a direct line from the above Sir Robert, was very inftrumental
in gaining the battle of Inverurie, which was the first victory King Ro-
bert Bruce obtained in 1308. The King rewarded his bravery, by be-
ftowing on him his own lands of Hall-Forest near to Kintore. At the
Parliament holden in Perth 1320, the King gave him a confiderable ſhare
of the Earl of Buchan's eftate, who had been forfeited for adhering to the
English intereft.
Sir Edward Keith, Great Mariſchal of Scotland, and grandfon of the
laft Sir Robert, had two fons, viz. Sir Edward, who fucceeded him, and
Sir John Keith, who married Mary'Chein, daughter and coheireſs of Sir
Reginald Chein of Inverugie. John Keith had got from his father the
lands of Raven's Craig, which then comprehended a confiderable part of
the parish of Peterhead; and he and his fucceffors are defigned promiſ
cuouſly by the titles of Raven's Craig, Inverugie, and Craig Inverugie.
John Keith's marriage with Mifs Chein feems to have been betwist
1354 and 1360. In 1535, William 4th Earl Marifchal married the eldeſt
Baughter of Sir William Keith of Inverugie, and by this marriage became
proprietor of the eſtate of Inverugie, Raven's Craig, &c
The lands par-
ticularly defigned in the parish of Peterhead as belonging to that family,
1
!
556
Statifical Account
poſite to the town of Peterhead on the fouth fide of the
bay, about 3 miles diſtance from the town. It ſtands on a
promontory betwixt two very deep fiffures, with high crag-
gy rocks on each fide, where the fea rolls in a confiderable
way with great force, and fuch impetuofity when the wind
blows from the eaft, that the ſpray of the fea is often car-
ried over the top of the houſe; the chafm on the north fide
is within a few feet of the houſe, which is built on the top
of a precipice; the houſe is not inhabited, and is in ruins;
the walls are ſtill remaining. It muft appear ftrange how
fuch a fituation fhould at firſt have been chofen, and yet
fuch fituations are frequent on this coaft. Dunnoter, (for-
merly a feat of the Earl Marifchal), the old caftle of Slains,
Slains Caftle, (feats of the family of Errol), and Dundarg,
all ftand on the brink of high rocks projecting into the
fea.
Boddom caftle fome time formerly may have been a for-
trefs; there were feveral cannon remaining there lately,
and there is one not yet removed. The houſe was inha-
bited about the beginning of this century.
Mill, and fome Ruins.-There is a common meal mill,
Situate in an extenfive, romantic, folitary den, about 3 or
in a charter granted to Sir Gilbert Keith of Inverugie in 1490, are faid
to be "Terras de Corfar ftown, Buckla, Scotſmill et Raven's Craig." The
tands of Tortoiftown, probably the fame with Corfarftown, Scotfmill, and
Raven's Craig, with the fuperiority of the town of Peterhead, and fome
lands round it, which formerly belonged to the Abbey of Deer, were in
pofletion of the Marifchal family till their forfeiture. The Mariſchal
tamily were not raiſed to the Peerage till 1450, when William, Great
Marifchal of Scotland, was called by the King's writ (not by patent) to
it in Parliament by the title of Lord Keith, and in 1451 by the title of
Earl Marifchal.
A more particular account of that family will be found in the Statiſti-
cal Account of St Fergus, a neighbouring parish, where the caftle of Ta-´
erugie is fituate.
1
of Peterhead.
557
:
4 miles weft of the town; the houſe containing the mill is
built to a rock, and feems to be an object of confiderable
antiquity.
There are likewife the remains of an old building, fituate
upon a fertile hill, about a mile N. W of the town of Pe-
terhead; part of a wall ſtill remains, and a pavement of
fome extent overgrown with grafs. A neighbouring well
ftill retains the name of the Abbot's Well. Some well
dreffed ftones, that have been evidently taken from the
ruins, are obfervable in the adjacent buildings. Many flates
have been dug up about the place, and a few coins, the in-
ſcriptions of which were entirely obliterated; human bones
have likewife been found inclofed in cells built of ſtone.
There is no tradition to aſcertain preciſely what thefe ruins
are; from the name of the well it is fuppofed to have been
an Abbey. It is more probable it was the refidence of
fome monks belonging to the Abbey of Deer, which had
very extenfive property before the Reformation, and pof-
feffed a great part of this parish. The ruins of the Abbey
are ftill to be feen at Old Deer; feveral of their monks
poffeffed extenfive farms at a diſtance, and fome of them
probably enjoyed the farm in this neighbourhood, and at
the fame time might have a place of worship and burial
place; and if the Abbot occafionally visited them, or with-
out this circumftance, they might give to their well the
name of the head of their order.
Natural Curiofities.-About two years ago, on digging
for a well for the accommodation of the family at the manfe,
at the depth of about 8 or 10 feet, a complete ſkeleton of a
deer was found; the greateſt part of the ribs fell imme-
diately to duft on being expofed to the air; the horns were
more entire, and one of them is ftill preferved as a curio-
fity. One of my predeceffors, who was fettled here about
2
70
1
558
Statistical Account
70 years ago, having refided in his younger years in the
high country, I ſuſpected the deer might have been ſent to
him; his widow, however, who is ſtill alive, affured me a
few weeks ago there was no fuch animal fent during
his refidence here. There is no doubt, at a very di-
ftant period, there were large woods in this parish, as
roots of trees are found every day in the moffes. It is
very extraordinary, if it should have remained entire for ſo
fo
long a time; and it is not eafily to be explained, how an
entire ſkeleton fhould have been found, unleſs theſe animals
once refided here.
A pretty large piece of amber was lately found on the
fea-beach, a little below the manſe, and is at preſent in my
cuftody. This probably has floated hither from the Baltic,
where amber was found in the days of Tacitus, and is ſtill
to be got in confiderable quantities. Camden mentions a
piece of amber being found at the Buchannefs in this parish,
of ſo extraordinary a fize as almoſt to ſtagger belief.
Mines and Quarries.-The hills on the S. and S. W.
parts of the parish, if they deſerve that name, are covered
with heath; there are no volcanic appearances in the parish,
petrified parts of animals, or petrifying ſprings or waters;
there are no coal-mines, lime, or flate quarries, but inex-
hauftible quarries of excellent granite, of which all the
houſes in the town of Peterhead are built, and great quan-
tities exported to the London market, and for different
parts in England; the granite admits of the fineft poliſh,
and lapidaries are frequently employed in forming it into
various fhapes for different pieces of furniture. There
are fome cryſtals found lodged in rocks of granite, Fofil
fhells are found in great quantities 20 or 30 feet above the
prefent level of the fea; and it is remarkable that fome of
them are of a larger fize than any that are now to be found
DR
of Peterhead.
559
on the coaft. There is great variety of pebbles to be found
on the fea-fhore, very beautiful for fhape, colour, and polish,
and fome of them of confiderable value.
!
Peft Ground. In the end of last century the plague was
in the town of Peterhead. The perfons infected with this
diſeaſe were removed out of the town; temporary huts of
timber were erected for their accommodation to the north-
ward, betwixt the town and blockhouſe, on a piece of wafte
ground, where the cattle of the feuers were paſtured; the
people who died there were buried on the ſpot, and the
houſes turned down and covered with earth; it was after-
wards called the peſt-ground, and was never ploughed or
touched, till about 20 years ago, when this common was
difponed as property to the feuers of Peterhead; it was
then trenched, and ſeveral pieces of timber were found not
confumed; fome timorous people were under apprehenfions
that bad effects might have enfued from breaking up this
ground.
Pits. On the remoteft extremity of this pariſh, on the
fouth fide of the Sadle-bill of Invernettie, oppofite to the
Den of Boddom, (which lies betwixt the Sadle and Stir-
ling-hill), there are a number of pits caft up along the
brae, without any order, of fuch a fize as to contain 3 or
4 perfons. By tradition they are the Paights or Picts
houfes, and the people in the neighbourhood believe the
Picts, who they imagine were of a diminutive fize, dwelt
there; but this appears incredible; and it is more probable,
that in the time of incurfions by the Danes, of which there
are certain accounts in the neighbouring parifh of Cruden,
fome of them had entrenched themſelves there for a fhort
time, in order to be concealed, for which the place is ex-
tremely proper, as to this day no dwelling-houſe is in fight
of
560
Statiſtical Account
of it; on the fouth fide there is an impaffable morals, and
formerly it probably was inacceffible on all fides. A gen-
tleman who has feen thefe, fays, he has feen in Ireland pits
fomewhat fimilar, near the high-roads, where poor people
came out with their children begging for charity; but
theſe pits never could have been formed for that purpoſe,
as no high-road is near them, nor any apparent inducement
for their refidence there.
Meteors and Hurricane-On the 10th of November
1766, when affifting at the communion at St Fergus,
neighbouring parish about 5 miles to the N. W. of this
place, I obſerved in the evening a very extraordinary ap-
pearance in the air looking to the S. E. about a mile
from the church, there was the appearance of a light fome.
what like the aurora borealis. The rays gradually became
more vivid and ſtationary, feeming like a gleam of fire,
extending about a quarter of a mile from E. to W. It
continued for ſeveral hours, and then diſappeared. I have
never heard of fuch a phenomenon in this country, though
I am informed it is frequently obſerved in the Weſt Indies.
In January 1773, there was a remarkable high wind,
which truly might have been called a hurricane, it un-
roofed many houſes here, and in ſeveral pariſhes at ſome
diſtance from this place, deftroyed a great number of trees,
which were old, and of a large fize; many were torn up
from the roots, and fome entirely fplit. At the manſe of
Peterhead it did confiderable damage; the flates were torn
off the houfe; the top of the peat-ftack beat into duſt like
powder; the ricks in the corn-yard turned down, and
fheaves carried to the diſtance of fome hu red yards; a
hay-rick, in the form of an oblong fquare, was cut through
the middle as with a knife, from one end to the other.
The wind blew from the S. W.
Ith
of Peterhead.
561
E
In 1783, the meteor fo generally taken notice of was
obferved here. I was from home, about 20 miles from this
town, in a chaiſe, after ſunſet, when there was a thick fog;
a ſudden light came into the chaiſe like a flaſh of light-
ning. The lunar rainbow, which by fome people is rec-
koned a rare object, has been frequently obferved here.
Land Animals.-There are no quadrupeds or birds pecu-
liar to this parish; a few, however, may be mentioned.
There are, befides domeftic animals, the fox, polecat, otter,
weafel, hare, mole, ground mice, and water rats; I have
never heard of a badger being feen here, though I am not
certain but they may be found, as I once faw one which
was killed in the parish of Longfide, a few miles from this
place.
Birds.-The cuckoo, lapwing, corn-rail, woodcock, field-
fare, bat, blackbird, and fwallow, make their appearance
regularly once in the year at different feafons. I once faw,
in the end of the year, 2 or 3 woodpeckers, but they were
never obſerved afterwards. There are various fpecies of
hawks, and a few owls; an eagle was once killed in this
parish, the only one I have heard of being obſerved
during my refidence here; fwans fometimes paſs over the
town, but do not fettle here; wild-geeſe are very frequent-
ly to be found in the pariſh during the autumn and winter;
when an intenſe froſt has fet in for fome time, vaſt flocks of
wild-geefe, of a ſmaller fize than what are commonly found
here, paſs over the bay of Peterhead in one direction, half-
way
betwixt the manfe and the town of Peterhead, one
flock fucceeding another, during the greatest part of the
day; they all pafs to the northward, but where they fettle
at that time is uncertain; it is fuppofed they go to fome
lochs in the Highlands, which never freeze.
VOL. XVI.
4 B
Solan geefe
do
562
Statistical Account
The cuc-
do not refide here, but are frequently to be ſeen, and are
often caught with bait. There is a great variety of other
fea-fowl, which are common on the eaſt coaſt. Great num-
bers of wild-duck, are to be found in the parish; muirfowl
are to be got in the moors; partridges, fnipes, and plovers
are in great plenty; the ſmaller birds, which are to be
found in neighbouring pariſhes, are numerous.
koo and corn-rail generally appear in the months of April
and May, and are feldom heard after the month of Auguft.
The lapwing generally arrives in February or March, and
leaves this country in the end of autumn; lapwings of late
have been obſerved to refide in this part of the country all
winter; the woodcock makes his appearance about the
end of harveſt; they arrive here very lean, and in a few
days become very fat; there can be little doubt of their
coming from Norway and the east country; they are ge-
nerally obſerved firſt on the eaſt coaſt. If there be any
doubts of their coming from the eaſt country, they may be
removed by a fact, of which I was informed by a gentle-
man of veracity. About 50 years ago, he was in company
with one of the proprietors of the loch of Strathbeg, about
10 miles north of this place, in the parish of Lonmay,
which at that time was intended to be drained, and which
they had been ſurveying. In the evening, after ſunſet, be-
fore it was quite dark, he heard a great noiſe, like the flut-
tering of a flock of birds, and faw fomething like a cloud
before him; on examining more particularly, he found a
very large flock of woodcocks perfectly exhauſted, and not.
able to ftir from the place where they had fettled; they
were likewife entirely emaciated.
A few weeks ago, during the fevereſt part of the win-
ter, (1795), I obferved a ſtrange bird, which I had never
ſeen here before; it was about the fize of a corn-rail, had
a long bill, with long legs, fome red fpots on its head, the
3
plumage
of Peterhead.
563
plumage of a corn-rail, with a fhort tail. The froſt was
very intenfe, and it feemed to wish to take ſhelter about
the offices of the manſe; it did not fly, but ran ſo faſt that
I could not catch it.
Population. In confidering the number of people in this
pariſh, I include the town as well as the country. The
population of each at different periods is as follows:
1764. Town of Peterhead, males,
Ditto, females,
1764. Country, males,
Ditto, females,
Total in the pariſh,
1764. Families in town,
Ditto in country,
Total families *
1
530
736
1266
553
бог
1154
2420
361
262
1764. Epiſcopals in town,
Ditto in country,
Total Epifcopals,
623
500
142
642
N. B. In the fea-town of Boddom, which is part of the
country population, there were, families, 41; males,
80; females, 94; total, 174.
1769. Town of Peterhead, males,
Ditto, females,
1769. Country, males,
Ditto, females,
Total in the parish,
640
878
1518
589
599
1188
2706
1769.
*By families is not meant houfes; for in many houſes, in the town
particularly, there are feveral families.
564
Statistical Account
1769. Families in town,
Families in country,
Total families,
I
1769. Epiſcopals in town,
Ditto country,
Total Epifcopals,
413
276
689
553
147
700
N, B. In the fea-town of Boddom, always reckoned
part of the country, in 1769, there were 93 males,
and 92 females, total 185; familes 45. In the whole
pariſh there were about 346, under 7 or 8 years of
age.
In the town of Peterhead in 1790, the population was as
follows:
1790. Town of Peterhead, males,
Ditto, females,
Total in the town,
Under the age of 2 years,
From 2 to 5,
1097
1453
2550
104
165
From 5 to 1Q,
From ro to 20,
From 20 to 30,
From 30 to 40,
From 40 to 50,
From 50 to 60,
From 60 to 7º,
From 70 to 80,
80, and upwards,
Total,
1
272
T
502
368
320
350
209
175
59
26
2550
There
of Peterhead.
565
4
There was alive in 1790, and ſhe is not yet dead, a poor
woman, who declared the was then 105 years old, and a
few days ago told me he was now 109 years of age. This
declaration appears to be fufficiently authenticated from
anſwers the gives to queftions refpecting past events, and
other collateral circumſtances. She is by no means de-
crepit, as one might naturally expect; fhe ftill continues
to travel through the country as a beggar, and ſays, the
only uneafineſs fhe feels, is a fmall degree of wearineſs from
carrying her meal bag, which is generally pretty full. She
has the appearance of being only betwixt 70 and 80 years
of
age.
When the laft lift of the inhabitants of the town
of Peterhead in 1790 was taken, there were two perſons
from 90 to 95 years of age, one perfon of 87, one of 86,
two of 85, and 21 from 80 to 85. In the fame lift the
females exceed the males 336; that is, they are nearly as
131 to 10.
The number of houfes was about 500.
The population in the country part of the pariſh in 1794
was as follows:
1794. Males,
Females,
Total in the country,
518
623
1141
In the fea-town of Boddom, always confidered as part of
the country, there were, females 106, males 86, total 192.
Families in the country 259; of which, in the fea-town of
Boddom there were 49. From the rapid progreſs of ma-
nufactures in the town of Peterhead fince 1790, I fuppofe
there is at preſent in the whole pariſh about 4100.
Dr Webſter's account in 1755 queſtionable.—I find in Dr
Webſter's report in 1755, the inhabitants of this pariſh are
reckoned to be 2487. I have great doubts of this being
accurate, and therefore have not ſtated it in my account of
the
566
Statiſtical Account
ختم
the population at different periods. When I was fettled in
1763, 1 never heard of any liſt being taken by Dr Web-
fter; and when I vifited my pariſh next year, and took an
accurate lift both of the town and country, many in the
pariſh were much offended at me; they had never heard
of fuch a thing being done before, and compared my con-
duct to the fin of David in numbering the people. I should
not have apprehended there would have been a great in-'
creaſe in the population, but there is no reaſon to fuppofe
there would have been 60 people fewer in 1764 than in.
1755, unleſs the long continuance of the war fhould have
had any influence in diminiſhing the numbers in the pariſh.
If Dr Webſter calculated the number of the pariſhoners
from the regiſter of baptifms, I am certain there were not
ſufficient data on which he could proceed.
Religious Sects. In the lifts of 1764 and 1769, which
were accurately taken by myſelf, by viſiting every family
in the pariſh, there were no Diffenters from the Eſtabliſhed
Church but Epiſcopals, that perfuafion for a long time was
the prevailing mode of religion in this parish, and it is ftill
profeffed by the wealthieft inhabitants of the town. They.
were all then of the Scotch Epifcopal Church; fince that
time they are divided into Scotch and English Epiſcopals.
From two notes, which I have received from the minifters
of both theſe congregations, I find there is at prefent nearly
1100 Epifcopals. Since 1769, there were a few Roman
Catholics in the pariſh for a few years; there are none at
preſent with whom I am acquainted. Somewhat more
than 20 years ago, a Seceder meeting houfe was erected
about 8 or 9 miles from this place; fince that time a few
Seceders have been in this parish, but they are not at pre-
fent numerous; I really do not know their preciſe number,
nor could I eafily aſcertain it; a church was built by the
a
!
:
567
of Peterhead.
a few years ago; they have worſhip there frequently, and
a congregation is collected from different parishes; but in
fo far as I can difcover, it has made little impreffion on the
members of the Eſtabliſhed Church here, who are more
numerous than at any former period, if one can judge from
the number of communicants, the regular progreffive in-
creaſe of the collections for the poor every Lord's day, and
the numerous complaints for want of room in the church,
which is now far from being fufficient for thoſe who wiſh
to attend public worſhip there, and many are obliged to
take feats elſewhere, for want of room in the church. There
have been at different times attempts to collect a congre-
gation by Bereans and Methodists, but they have hitherto
failed. In general I believe it will be found, there is lefs
of animofity from a difference of religious fentiments in
this parish, than in moſt pariſhes that are ſo populous, opu-
lent, commercial, and in particular where fo many manu-
factures are eſtabliſhed.
Valued and real Rent.-The valued rent of this parish is
L. 4525:11:8 Scotch money. The real rent is not eafily
aſcertained; I think it is from L. 2800 to L. 3000 Sterling,
and is much more than double of what it was 30 years
ago.
Farming.There is a confiderable alteration on the mode
of farming during that period. Forty years ago, excepting
about the town of Peterhead, there was no fown grafs,
turnips and potatoes were not cultivated, and were brought
by ſhipmafters as rarities to their families from Norway
and Ireland. For fome years paft it has been common to
export, of one crop, 1000 bolls of potatoes to Norway and
England from this parish.
About the town of Peterhead crops of fown graſs have
been raiſed for thefe laft 40 years; the mode of manage-
ment
568
Statistical Account
ment at firſt, and many years afterwards, was very parti
cular; a perfon was engaged at the rate of 10 s. to mow
and cure an acre of grafs. There was a great deal of work
employed in this operation; it required four days to mow
the graſs; it was permitted to lie in the fwarth ſeveral
days, afterwards carefully expoſed to the fun for a confide-
rable time, and then put into fmall cocks; theſe were turn-
ed over regularly every other fair day, to bafk in the fun,
feveral weeks paffed before it was thought out of danger,
and then put into a rick, or carried to the corn-yard.
This practice continued till Dr Anderfon's method of cu-
ring hay was publiſhed; fince that time there are many
inſtances of large fields of hay being entirely out of danger
in the courſe of eight days, after beginning to mow the
grafs, without any expoſure to the fun, excepting what is
unavoidable in reducing the number of cocks. I wish I
could fay the practice was univerfal. There are many in-
ſtances which might be mentioned of good farming in this
parish, both by the proprietors and farmers, at ſome parti-
cular times; and in many places the land is in a very high
ftate of cultivation. At prefent I fee no fteady plan of
good huſbandry, and in particular no proper rotation of
crops; there is not an acre of wheat nor of lint in the pa-
rish; very little fallow, and very little expence beſtowed
on liming or dunging, though both lime and dung may
had in fufficient quantity, and on moderate terms, com-
pared with thofe in other places.
be
Thirty years ago perfons were hired to carry the dung
of the town of Peterhead to the fea; it was confidered as a
nuifance, and might have been obtained by any farmer
without paying any price for it; it has for many years
been purchaſed at a pretty high price, and fome of it car-
ried into neighbouring parishes; but ftill there is a great
deal neglected, and caft into the fea.
It
of Peterhead.
569
It will naturally be enquired how this fhould happen.
The first obftacle is prejudice; the fecond, poverty; the
third, manufactures; and the fourth, the heritors not re-
fiding on their eftates, granting proper leafes, nor looking
out for fome tenants of experience, enterprife, and wealth,
who might fet an example to thofe around them. The
greatest part of the tenants are natives of this parish, bred
as farmers by their parents, who, from the lowneſs of their
rents, were enabled to ſupport their families, and pay their
rents with the old mode of farming; and they ſeldom think
of looking farther than the preſent time, to provide fome-
thing for their family, or againſt any difafter that may be-
fal them; the rents have been raiſed, and with difficulty
are paid by the preſent tenants, not, in my opinion, by the
produce of their crops, but by the money received for ma-
nufactures by the females in their families, an accidental
high price for cattle for feveral years, and employing their
horfes to lead peats to the town of Peterhead in ſummer,
when they might be more properly employed in fallowing
a few acres of their farm, and carrying lime and dung. The
truth is, a great part of the beſt land in this parish requires
a great deal of lime and dung, from the ſtiffneſs and nature
of the foil, to make it mellow, and fit to produce proper
crops; but when this is done, it will produce as weighty
crops as any land in the country, and may be very pro-
ductive by a proper rotation of crops for many years, with-
out receiving any manure.
There are a confiderable number of fields in fown grafs
in the parish; the crops are generally oats, bear, (no bar-
ley), peaſe or beans, or peaſe and beans mixed together.
The lands, unleſs when broken up out of ley, are dunged
for bear; afterwards two crops of oats are taken, fome-
times a crop of peafe, and then dunged for bear; formerly
there was a great quantity of ſmall oats fown; this is moſtly
VOL. XVI.
4 C
given
570
Statistical Account
given up. There are ſtill ſome brocked oats, but there is
now more attention paid to the nature of the feed; Blainf-
lie, and what is called the Chief Baron's oats are in repute,
and frequently purchaſed for feed.
There are a great number of bawks in the parish which
remain untouched; 30 years ago, on an eſtate within a
mile of the town of Peterhead, I am informed it was an
article in the leafes of the tenants not to break them up.
They were called meadow ground, and their cattle paſtured
on them in fummer. There are a number of incloſures,
moftly of earthen fences, with a ditch in the inſide, which
is found with fome attention to be a fufficient fence.
There are fome earthen fences, with a thorn-hedge.
The thorns are much neglected; I have no doubt of their
thriving here with proper attention. There are a few in-
ſtances of the thorns being a complete defence, without the
leaſt attention being paid to them fince they were planted.
There are feveral with ftone dikes on one gentleman's
eſtate, who at one time was at confiderable pains in impro-
ving his farm. About the town of Peterhead, and in fome
other parts of the parish, there are a confiderable number
of inclofures, partly of ftone, and partly an earthen fence,
called here a half dike; but where ftones can eaſily be
had, they are the completeft fence, and in many reſpects
preferable to any other mode of inclofing. Earthen fences
can be built from 2 d. to 3 d. per yard; faced with ſtone,
four feet high, 6 d.; complete ftone fences of the fame
height at Is. Sterling.
The fize of the farms is fo various, that it is not eaſy to
afcertain what may be the average rent. They are in ge-
neral from L. 2 to L. 50 or L. 60 Sterling.
There are only
three above L. 100, and one farmer pays rent nearly to the
extent of L. 200. Theſe large farms are not under the imme-
diate management of the principal tackſmen; and to an in-
telligent farmer, nothing will more quickly convey a juſt
idea
of Peterhead.
571
:
idea of the ſtate of agriculture in this parish, than the irre-
gular fize of the farms, which are determined more by local
circumſtances, than a general fpirit for improvement.
Rent of Land.-In the country part of the pariſh I do not
think there is any eſtate which yields above 12 s. at an ave-
rage per acre, and there are not many that can be eſtimated
at 10 s. The lands in the vicinity of the town of Peterhead
let at from L. 1, 10 s. to four guineas each acre. Here there
is a fpur to induftry, and in confequence great exertions are
made, and very weighty crops are raiſed, particularly of
potatoes, bear, and graſs. There is ſcarce a day-labourer
or manufacturer who does not raiſe potatoes, by taking a
few falls of ground, from 4 d. to Is. each fall, trenching
and hoeing the ground, and taking up the potatoes, with his
own hands. He is employed about this work, after he has
ſpent the day at his ordinary employment, which tends to
promote his health, gives a wholeſome nouriſhment to his
family, and enables him to go on at his fedentary bu-
fineſs at home with more animation and fpirit. In confe-
quence of the general attention beftowed on raifing pota-
toes, I think the manner of managing that crop is as well
underſtood here, as in any other part of the kingdom, and
as weighty crops are raifed as in any other place. The
ground is generally trenched out of ley, fometimes after it
has carried one crop of oats, without any manure; by fre-
quent hoeing, the weeds are kept down in fummer, and
the potatoes are taken up with a fpade. The expence of
the management of one acre, exclufive of rent and feed, is
not leſs than five guineas; but it is not uncommon to have
above 50 bolls, of 32 ftone Dutch weight each boll, from
an acre. An ordinary crop is eftimated at 40 bolls, which
are generally fold at 8 s. per boll; and I am acquainted
with repeated inftances of eight acres in one perſon's pof
feffion
572
Statistical Account
feffion yielding a crop in that proportion. The potatoe
moft cultivated here is the kidney, planted at the di
ſtance of 12 inches each way, fometimes 10 and 12 inches.
Sometimes they are liable to the curl, but not frequently.
There is always an excellent crop of bear and grafs im-
mediately after the potatoes; the grafs frequently fails the
fecond and third year, but the ground may be afterwards
trenched for potatoes; and with a rotation of the fame crops,
the fame procefs continued for many years, without any
more dung or lime, where the land has been previously
brought into good order by proper tilth and manure; at
leaſt I have ſeen this fairly tried in different fields, without
the ground being injured. The common practice is, to
trench out of ley for potatoes, the next crop bear, and the
third crop grafs; a judicious farmer, however, recommends
from his own experience, to take firſt a crop of oats out of
ley; next a crop of potatoes, and then fow bear and graſs-
feeds, and by this means he thinks the grafs will remain
longer. In confequence of this advice, I have tried one
field in this manner; the grafs had an excellent appear-
ance laſt autumn, after the bear was cut down, and bids
fair for a good crop next ſeaſon, and confirming the obſer-
vation I have received.
Turnips, before potatoes were introduced, were fown,
and the next crop bear and graſs-feeds; on the lands, with-
in two miles of the town of Peterhead, they are not found:
in general to anfwer; there is fometimes a full crop of tur-
nips, but the bear crop generally fails; this is imputed to
poaching the ground in carrying off the turnips, which is
probably the cafe, as the clay being near the furface, the
water ftands in pools all winter, and chills the ground; per-
haps by a careful hand pulling the turnips, and carrying.
them off the field, this inconvenience might be obviated;.
this however has not been tried.
In:
of Peterhead.
573
In a word, a general mode of good huſbandry being in-
troduced, muft depend upon the proprietors of the land
giving long leafes, encouragement for houſes and improve-
ments, parcelling out their farms in proper lots, (for with-
out this there can be no proper rotation of crops), aboliſh-
ing thirlage to their mills, which is the moſt injudicious
tax on improvement that ever was introduced, and intro-
ducing two or three fubftantial farmers from the Lothians,
or Carfe of Gowrie, on their own terms, who would foon
convince their neighbours by their example, of the great
improvement that may be made in this parish, as the foil
is excellent, and there is eaſy acceſs to manures of every
kind.
It must be acknowledged there are ftrong reafons for this
plan not having been adopted hitherto; many of the heri-
tors have but moderate incomes; they cannot afford to
lower their rents; they are ready to accept of the higheſt
offer; the preſent tenants are unwilling to relinquish the
place of their nativity, and promiſe a rent which is more
than they can eaſily pay, from the old mode of farming;
but which, by the money acquired from manufactures, and
letting out their horfes, they continue to practiſe, and ſtrug-
gle with poverty, and the difficulty of fupporting their
credit; but there are, and have been more opulent pro-
prietors, who have feldom ſhown any inclination to intro-
duce ſome farmers capable of ſetting a good example, with
fuch encouragement as would induce and enable them to |
fettle in this parish. In the neighbourhood of the town of
Peterhead, there are crops of bear from 12 to 16 bolls per
acre; eight bolls, however, is reckoned a great crop. There
are inſtances of from 300 to 450 ſtone weight of hay (20 lb.
Dutch each stone) produced, from one acre; 200 ftone is
reckoned a good crop; 50 bushels of rye-grafs feed are fre-
quently produced from one acre; I am likewife acquainted
with
574
Statiſtical Account
one acre.
with 63 ftone weight of ſkutched lint being produced from
There is, however, a great prejudice againſt this
crop in this parish; it is thought to exhauſt the ſoil more
than any other crop. The expences are heavy, from few
perfons being acquainted with the different parts of the ma-
nagement of it; and there is no lint-mill within fix miles
of the town.
It is not eafily fettled what may be the average from
one acre of oats in the parish; I fcarcely think it can be
called four bolls; from fix to eight bolls is reckoned a very
weighty crop; but there are many fields fown with oats,
which do not pay feed and labour. One farmer in this pa-
rish, who has lately taken a large farm of above 230 acres,
and has at prefent above Ico acres in his own poffeffion,
candidly told me a few weeks ago, that from 12 bolls of
oats which he ſowed laſt crop, (and that crop was in gene-
ral very rich elſewhere), there was only produced 20 bolls,
and of crop 1793, he had not three returns. The foil in
general, however, is calculated to produce weighty crops of
oats, and of a good quality, and will feldom fail to do it,
unleſs when injured by previous bad management. A
gentleman, who had a ſmall eftate within three miles of
the town, broke up a field of ley, which had been limed
about 12 or 14 years ago, and had carried fome crops of
grain after it was limed; he took three crops of oats fuc-
ceffively without any manure; and in 1793, from the field,
which confiſts of fix acres, he reaped 60 bolls; it was not
fown down with graſs-feeds, but laſt year he drew above
L. I each acre for the natural graſs, great part of which was
fo luxuriant as to be cut for hay. I do not mention this
with a view to recommend the mode of management, but
to fhew the nature of the foil.
Ι
I am likewiſe acquainted with another ſmall field, about
two miles from the town, the produce of which, with the
rotation
of Peterhead.
575
rotation of crops, I had often obferved with ſurpriſe, and
had at first fet down from recollection, but which I now in-
fert in the words of the tenant, who is ſtill alive, and gave
me the account in writing: "On my farm there was a
"field of four acres, which, for 25 years during my refi-
"dence there, yielded alternately full crops of grain, viz.
"beans, bear, and oats, without any manure; I have rea-
"fon to think my predeceffor, for 5 or 7 years immediate-
"ly before my entry, employed it in the ſame manner.”
The number of bolls from each acre was never aſcertained,
but the field always attracted my attention, as producing
the richest crop in the neighbourhood, before any improve-
ment was made on the lands near the town of Peterhead.
In a word, I am fatisfied the greateſt part of the parish is
capable of the highest degree of cultivation, and I hope
foon fhall arrive at it.
Sea-fand has only begun to be tried laſt year; on the
fea-coaft, to the northward, for upwards of 24 miles, it has
been uſed for ſome time with great fuccefs, and is even
preferred to lime; it may truly be called fhell-fand, and is
more calcareous than what is found on the fhore in this
parish.
It is not poffible to aſcertain the preciſe quantity of grain
raiſed in this parish; I am apt to think it is not fufficient
for the fubfiftence of the inhabitants.
Gardening is in its infancy, and is making very flow
progrefs.
Confiderable attention is paid to the dairy by feveral
perfons in the pariſh, though in general little attention is
paid to the breed of the cows. There are a few of an ex-
cellent fhape, and they give large quantities of milk, from
8 to 12 pints each. Six pints, I am apt to think, is more
than the average from the cows in the parish. There is
butter and cheeſe of an excellent quality, the butter gives
from 6 d. to 8 d. the lb. 20 ounces Dutch, or nearly 22
ounces
ļ
576
Statistical Account
ounces Engliſh, being the ancient Scotch trone pound;
cheete from 3 s. to 5 s. the ftone, 20 lb. Dutch each ftone.
I know of three cows for ſeveral weeks one fummer,
yielding each of them daily 1 lb. of butter, 16 ounces
Dutch each pound; and of one cow, which calved about
Chriſtmas, yielding 11 lb. of butter in five days, the pound
confiſting of 16 ounces; fhe gave from 8 to 9 pints of
milk, and was fed with hay and cabbage. A farmer, who
has an extenfive farm, and is very attentive to his dairy,
informs me, that with good management " A cow will,
"during the fummer; be worth about L. 5 Sterling. I
"have ſeven cows, which give about 8 pints of milk each
"day, and yield me profit in that proportion.”
Leafes.-The leaſes are in general for 19 years; ſome for
that period, and the life of the tenant; there are a few for
two or three nineteen years, with one or two lives. On
the farms, which have the longeſt leafes, the lands are in
the higheſt ſtate of cultivation.
Planting.-There is very little planting in the pariſh.
There are fome trees at Invernettie and Little Cocklaw
fome young timber at Alehouſehill, Blackhouſe, and
Grange. At the manfe, within 200 or 300 yards of the
ſea, there is a thriving plantation of elder and willows
lately raiſed. I should not have mentioned this trifling
circumſtance if I had any merit in raifing the plantation;
laſt year there was a ſhoot of elder, the growth of the fum-
mer, of five feet in length. It would add much to the or-
nament of this country, if heritors would be at fome pains
in raifing ſuch trees as are fuited to the climate; formerly
there were large forefts in the pariſh.
Ploughs.
i
of Peterhead.
577
Ploughs. The parish was formerly divided into 52
ploughgates, or, I fuppofe, into as many. divifions as 52
ploughs could eaſily manage in the old ftyle of farming.
At prefent, in the town and country, I do not think they
exceed 90, though this cannot be eafily afcertained.
There are a few English ploughs drawn by two horſes,
or two oxen; in general four, fometimes fix horfes, are
employed in dragging a Scotch plough; many ploughs are
drawn often by two horfes, with a cow and a young ſteer; I
have even feen, and I obferved it iaft year, a piough with
one horfe, a cow and a young fteer.
Harrows, Fanners, and Carts.-There are a few drag-
harrows. Till lately, many fingle harrows were uſed with
timber tynes. They are still in general too light for the
foil.
There are no threſhing-machines. Fanners have been
lately introduced, and are now pretty numerous.
The carts in general are very ſmall, and of a bad con-
struction. A boll of coals, weighing 36 ftone Dutch weight,
is reckoned a fufficient load for one horſe and cart when
hired. There are a few carts of a better conftruction.
Horfes, Cattle, Sheep, and Hogs.-There are in the whole
pariſh about 400 horſes, for the purpoſes of ploughing, ri-
ding, and carriages; 900 cattle, and 590 ſheep; the ſheep
are moſtly on the confines of the moor and mofs, and have
a very ſcanty pafture. In fummer, a few ewes and lambs
are kept on tether, fcattered through the pariſh, and excel-
lently fed. Horſes are generally of a ſmall ſize, and there
are few in the pariſh of conſiderable value.
Excepting what is fed at the mills, hogs are very rare in
the parish.
VOL. XVI.
4 D
Refident
578
Statiſtical Account
Refident Heritors.-The number of proprietors at pre-
fent, befides the feuers in the town of Peterhead, is ele-
ven; there are five of theſe refiding in the parish. The
Governors of the Merchant Maiden Hofpital at Edinburgh
have confiderably more than one-third of the rent of the
pariſh; and three of the refiding heritors have not much
above L. 100 rent.
The greateſt part of this pariſh belonged once to the an-
cient family of the Earl Marifchal; at prefent, his repre-
fentatives poffefs no property here. There is not an eſtate
which has remained in the family of any perfon, who had
lands in the beginning of this century, excepting part of
the lands of Invernettie, half of which is the property of a
collateral branch of the original purchaſer from Earl Ma-
rifchal in the beginning of this century, and one fmall
eftate called Downie-bills, which was originally a wadfet
from the Mariſchal family, and now the abfolute property
of Dr Thomas Livingston, phyfician at Aberdeen, who, by
his mother, is the reprefentative of an ancient family of
the name of Robertfon, which long enjoyed this eſtate; and
one of them of the name of Thomas, about 60 or 70 years
ago, the fifteenth Thomas Robertfon, who poffeffed the
wadfet, writes a fong to be found in the fecond volume of
Allan Ramfay's Collection, in which he invites the Stirling
the name of his miſtreſs, to take up her refidence there,
concluding with the following lines:
I'll bring thee where I will devile
Such various ways to pleaſure thee,
The velvet fog thou wilt deſpiſe,
When on the downy hills with me.
(Signed) T. R.
Excepting
1
of Peterhead.
579
Excepting the Governors of the Merchant Maiden Hof-
pital, who as a corporate ſociety, are fuppofed never to die,
there is only at prefent one heritor, the Earl of Aberdeen,
alive, and poffeffing the fame eftate he enjoyed when I was
fettled in this parish about 30 years ago.
Sic tranfit glorią mundi!
Roads.-The roads are not kept in good repair; the fta-
tute-labour appears to be infufficient for that purpoſe; and
good roads are fcarce to be expected till turnpikes are in-
troduced.
Crops 1782, 1784.-The crop of 1782 was as defective
in this parish as in other parts of Scotland; and without
very great efforts, both of a public and private nature,
many would have perifhed for want of food.
Befides a large quantity of meal and feed-oats, imported
by the inhabitants of the town of Peterhead, and fold at
prime coft, with a confiderable quantity of meal fent by
Government, partly gratis, and partly at a low price,
there was taken from a fmall capital of the poor's funds
L. 20 Sterling; collections were made in the different
churches, and voluntary affeffments raiſed from the greateſt
part of the heritors; amounting in whole to L. 110: 6:5
Sterling, which was distributed by a committee of the dif-
ferent heritors, who had affeffed themfelves, the minifters
of the different churches, and the elders of the town, to
223 families, confifting of 566 perfons, in different propor-
tions, to the extent of 1 s. Sterling to each family weekly,
till a fupply was obtained from the next crop.
There was no perſon who died of famine, nor did
any appear to have fuffered in their health; on the con-
trary, the ſobriety and induſtry that were indiſpenſably re-
quifite
580
Statistical Account
quifite in many families to procure the neceffaries of life,
rendered complaints of bad health much lefs frequent than
ufual.
Some diſcoveries were made in confequeuce of the late
harveſt and ſcanty crop of 1782.
Bear was fown earlier than ufual in 1783, that there
might be acceſs to the crop as foon as poffible; inſtead of
fowing that grain as formerly in the month of May, it was
fown in the end of March and beginning of April'; the
practice has fince continued, and it is thought to be, both
as to the quantity and quality of the grain, an advantage,
when the ground is in good order and free from weeds.
During the month of April, there is a fufficiency of moi-
ſture in the foil; but in the month of May, particularly the
latter part of it, when the drought is fevere, the greateſt
part of the feed often remains in the ground without ſpring-
ing till the later rains, which frequently do not fall till
the middle or end of July, in confequence of which the crop
is very defective, and unequally ripened; when there is
fufficient moiſture in the ground, it is not reckoned too late
to fow bear on the laſt days of the month of May, but this
is uncertain, and it is of great importance to obſerve the
proper ſeaſon for fowing bear, which does not meet with
that attention which it deferves.
From a courſe of experiments made by Dr Anderfon on
different ſpecies of grain of crop 1782, he found that oats
when freſh, though only half-ripened, if once they germi-
nate, will produce as weighty crops as oats fully ripened.
In this parish there was a field in 1782, which produced
from 20 to 30 bolls of oats, which were not froſted, but
were never fully ripened; they continued always green,
and were cut down in the end of November, with their
The greateft part of them was
colour very little changed.
fold for feed-oats, nearly at the fame price with oats fully
ripened,
of Peterhead.
58F
ripened, and imported from England. A gentleman in
the neighbourhood, who was always attentive to the inte
reſt of his tenants, by the advice of his overſeer, purchaſed
about 18 bolls of theſe oats for his eftate, and afterwards
came on purpoſe to thank the perfon who fold them, for
the freſh oats his tenants had received, which, he ſaid, had
anſwered better than what had the appearance of being
much riper and fuller, but which had ſuffered from the
froft. Part of the fame oats were fown in this parish, and
there was no apparent difference of produce next crop, be-
tween them and oats of the beſt quality that had been im-
ported from England; they were only fown a little thicker
than other oats. Two or three bolls of them were fent to
the mill, and a boll fcarce yielded five pecks of meal.
This ftrongly fhows the fallacy of arguing a priori in
any thing relative to agriculture, as well as in other branches
of natural philofophy. It is not fuppofed, that fuch oats
will be preferred for feed in ordinary years; but in years
of ſcarcity, and fimilar to 1782, the fact deferves attention.
There were fome peculiarities in crop 1784, which de-
ferve being mentioned. During the ordinary ſeaſon for
fowing oats, which is from the beginning of March to the
end of April, there were conftant fhowers of rain; the
fields were never dry; the greateft part of the farmers de-
layed fowing till the feed-time was nearly elapfed; the
grain was fown, but the rains continuing, the greateſt part
was never covered with mould, the ground being much
poached with the horſes and cattle in attempting, and barely
attempting to harrow it; and great fears were entertained
concerning the crop. The feed, however, that was not
covered, from the great moiſture, all germinated, and took
root; and there was the richeſt crop, both of grain and fod-
der that has been known in this century; it has often fince
been compared with crop 1775, which was a dry feafon,
3
and
582
Statistical Account
and produced a very rich crop, with very little fodder, and
I find the preference has in general been given to crop
1784. The harveſt was likewife rainy and late; the oats
were filled, but in general never ripened, or rather were
never of a proper yellow colour; many farmers were too
impatient; fome permitted their oats to ftand all the month.
of November, and were fenfible they ripened more in that
month than at any former period. One farmer in this
parish difmiffed his reapers in the end of October; he left
one large incloſure where the oats were quite green; they
filled perfectly during the month of November, and gave
as much meal as any oats on his farm. I could mention
many other inftances in other years of the propriety of not
being too hafty in cutting down oats before they are com-
pletely filled, though the ſeaſon is late. On the whole,
there never was a more plentiful crop than in 1784. Meal
was felling about Candlemas next year at L. 8 Scots; be-
fore next harveſt it could have been purchaſed below 10 s.
each boll, the laft crop exceeding every perfon's expecta-
tion, and what was more extraordinary, the oats that were
green, and had been referved as of leaft value, producing as
much meal as thoſe that appeared to be fully ripened.
The greateſt part of the peaſe of this crop was entirely
loft, and never taken off the ground for want of good wea
ther to dry the ftraw. I had myſelf that year a field of
from fix to ſeven acres in peaſe and beans, four acres in
beans, and two and a half in peafe; the peaſe were ſown
in the beginning of March, and completely covered, by
getting the ground harrowed; from that time to the end
of April I only found one day for fowing my beans; they
were fown, but I could only, from the conflant rains, give
the ground a flight touch with the harrow; the greateſt
part of the beans being ftill uncovered, I collected a few
boys, each with a ſtick in his hand, and puſhed every bean
We
of Peterhead.
583
}
we diſcovered a few inches below the ground; there was
a moſt luxuriant crop of peaſe and beans, both of grain and
fodder. The peaſe, after they were cut down, were fre-
quently covered with fnow, and in turning them a great
part of the grain was loft; I waited till near the end of
November, and ſeeing no proſpect of preſerving them in the
ordinary manner, I took three Norway trees, of 10 or
12 feet in length, tied them at the top with a rope, and ex-
tended them at the base; the peaſe were built round the
trees on the outſide, four ſmall arches were left at the bot-
tom, all was hollow within the trees, and open at the top
before the rick was thatched; the air ruſhed in, went to
the top, and in a few days the ſtraw, which was formerly
wet, was as dry in the infide as on the outfide; the whole
crop of peafe was contained in three ricks; the grain that
remained, and ftraw, was entirely preferved; and if the
experiment had been tried fooner, the whole of the grain
would have been faved. After the peafe were threſhed
out, I offered the ſtraw for ſale in 1785, at 3 d. each ſtone;
I only fold at that time a few ftones; in 1786, there was a
fcarcity of fodder; I fold the peaſe ſtraw at 4 d. each ftone;
the farmers had fufpicions at first of its being ſpoiled from
age, and rotten, and were flow in purchafing it; it was
however foon fold, and the perfon who bought the laft part
of it came to me fmiling, and faid he had not bought cheap-
er or fresher fodder that winter, and that his horfes ap-
peared to be exceedingly fond of it. This method of pre-
ferving peaſe is very fimple, but notwithstanding of this
circumftance, and though it is perfectly understood, and
frequently practifed in the higher parts of the county,
where there is plenty of timber, and was pretty generally
known in this corner at the time, I have never feen it re-
peated, and I am acquainted with many inſtances of peafe
being entirely loft fince that year. The want of timber
can
5-84
1
Statistical Account
can be no excufe; as much more is wanted at moſt farms
in the courſe of the year, and it does not ſuffer by being
employed in the manner I have mentioned.
Many, by hurrying in their beans to the corn-yard in
1785, loft them and the fodder. I delayed touching mine
till the laſt day of November; and in the night-time, with
moon light, and a briſk breeze of wind from the weſt,
got them all out of danger; beans are a hardy grain, and
will remain long in the field, without receiving injury from
the weather. I know no part of huſbandry in this pariſh
in which farmers are more apt to err, than in the manage-
ment of their beans, by taking them too quickly off the
field;
if not fufficiently dry, and even blackened, the fod-
der and grain are both ſpoiled.
The foil in this parish, whether it be a fandy or clay
foil, is excellently calculated for raifing beans. They are
all fown in the broadcaſt; in this manner they have more
fodder, but lefs grain, than if they were fown in drills and
hoed; but the fodder is fo valuable for horfes, (in my opi-
nion nearly equal to hay and oats), that there are great in-
ducements to continue this practice. Next to turnips, po-
tatoes, or fallow, they are the beſt preparing crop for graſs,
It is rare to fee beans in the higher parts of the county;
but they deferve to be introduced, as I know few crops.
more valuable.
Births. It is not poffible to aſcertain the number of
births from the feffion-regiſter, as many people decline en-
tering their childrens names in the record. Since the pro-
poſal of a Statiſtical Account, I have inferted in a private
regiſter all that I have baptized. The refult is as follows,
for three years, from the 31st March 1791 to the fame
date 1794, 136 males, and 109 females; total 245; at an
average each year, nearly 82. From all the information
I
4
of Peterhead.
585
I can receive, there may be from 20 to 25 more baptized
in the pariſh each year.
Burials. There is no register of burials kept by the
feffion; I have, however, requeſted the prefent fexton, fince
he entered on his office, to mark accurately every burial in
the church-yard, and to keep a book for that purpoſe, that
he may know when it is proper to open a grave where a
corpfe has formerly been laid down. This regifter, of which
I keep a copy, is now before me; and from the 20th Janu-
ary 1773 to the 20th January 1795, there have been bu-
ried 1425; average for 22 years, nearly 65. For the firſt
eleven years during this period, there were buried 672,
average 61; for the laſt eleven 753, average each year 68.
This, however, does not accurately ftate the number of
deaths in this parish; many ftrangers are buried here, and
many are carried out of this place to other places. The
fexton, however, affures me, there are more carried out of
this pariſh than brought hither, owing to the number of
new inhabitants who refide in the town of Peterhead.
Small-pox.—In 1774, I find there were 72 burials: of this
number 27 died of the ſmall-pox: in 1781, there were 86
burials, and of this number 34 died of the fame diforder.
Inoculation has been introduced here for theſe laſt 25 years;
but the practice is far from being general.
Marriages.It is ftill more difficult to afcertain the num-
ber of marriages. I have kept for feveral years a liſt of
perfons I have married; but this only happens when the
bride refides in this parish, and is a member of my congre-
gation; I have a note before me from the clerk, from the
22d of May 1791 to the 1ft of March 1794, of proclama-
tions during that period, they amount to 84; ſo that at an
VOL. XVI.
4 E
average
586
Statiſtical Account
average each year they may be eſtimated at 28 pair. Ne-
ther does this afcertain the number of marriages, as the
bans of marriage are publiſhed in the parish where either
the bride or bridegroom refides. I find from the 23d June
1791 to the fame date in 1794, I have married only 54
pair; average each year during this period, 18.
Minifters. From all the information I have received,
there have been here five Prefbyterian minifters fince the
Revolution, Mr Guthrie, Mr Brown, Mr Farquhar, Mr
Walker, and the writer of the prefent account. Mr Brown
left this pariſh, and was afterwards fettled at Behelvie, in
the prefbytery of Aberdeen: Mr Farquhar went to Chapel
of Garioch, in the prefbytery of Garioch, and died only a
few years ago. He was father of Mr John Farquhar, late
miniſter of Nigg, the author of two volumes of fermons,
which are ſo generally and deſervedly eſteemed. They re-
ceive an additional value from the character of the author,
whofe life was a tranfcript of the fentiments he publiſhed.
He died at a very early age; the warmth of his affection
was the cauſe of his death; having overheated himſelf in
going to ſee a friend, who was ill of a fever, he was in a
few days feized with the fame diforder, which foon proved
fatal:
Multis ille bonis flebilis occidit,
Nulli flebilior quam MIHI.
My predeceffor was father likewife of Mr Walter Far-
quhar, fo eminent in London for his extenfive practice and
ſkill in the medical profeffion. Both his fons were born
in this parish. The prefent incumbent was fettled here
in 1763.
Living.
of Peterhead.
587
:
.
•
Living. The living, by a decreet of the court of teinds
in 1792, which is not yet allocated on the different heri-
tors, confifts of 5 chalders of meal, 3 chalders of bear, and
:
:
L. 41 13 4 Sterling of money, in which is included L. 8,
6 s. 8 d. for communion-elements.
The glebe confifts of different patches of ground, in
all betwixt 8 and 9 acres, part of the foil very indiffe-
rent, but now rendered more valuable by fome improve-
ments of the prefent incumbent; befides a garden, and fite
for the manfe and offices, and a privilege of pafturage on
the links before the manſe.
Manfe. The manfe is very old; was burnt in 1740;
rebuilt a little afterwards by the laſt incumbent, on a com-
promiſe with the heritors; the walls of the former manfe,
which were built with mortar, I am informed ſtill remain.
The whole of the houfe is very infufficient; the offices
were built about 16 years ago, and with repairs to the
manfe, which were only about L. 5, coft the heritors L. 90
Sterling, the whole that has been paid by them during my
refidence here. It has coft me a much greater fum for
fome additional accommodation, and keeping the manfe
and offices in repairs, which are renewed every year.
Church. The church was built in 1771, in the Kirk-
town, and is an elegant building 78 feet long, and 39
feet broad over the walls, which are of a proper height to
admit of the galleries being fufficiently raiſed.
From the pofition of the pulpit, and the arrangement of
the feats, both in the galleries and on the ground-floor, it
is the moſt convenient place of worship with which I am
acquainted. The plan was fent by one of the heritors
refiding at Edinburgh, and was got from an eminent ar-
chitect there.
There
-
588
Statistical Account
There has been a great alteration in the ftyle of building
churches in the Synod of Aberdeen fince its erection, but
without attending to the ftrict proportion and fimplicity of
this plan, which might ferve as a model for any church,
the pulpit being placed at an equal diſtance from the eaſt
and weft end of the north wall, and every perfon both fee-
ing and hearing the minifter. The whole expence of the
building was only L. 520 Sterling; and a ſmall fund being
obtained, by the rent of a few feats, which were fixed after
the plan was completed, at preſent under the management
of the kirk-feffion, the heritors have paid nothing for re-
pairs ever fince the church was built.
The Scotch and English Epifcopals and Seceders have
each a very convenient place of worſhip in the town of
Peterhead. There is an organ in each of the Epifcopal
chapels.
Poor.-There are no affeffments on the heritors for the
fubfiftence of the poor. They are fupported chiefly from
collections in the church, which are very liberal. When
I was fettled in 1763, there was about L. 90 Sterling
in the box; the money at prefent fettled on intereft does
not much exceed that fum. Thirty years ago, ordinary
collections every Lord's day were from 7 s. to 8 s.; they
are now from 18 s. to L. 1. This, with the ordinary per-
quifites, under the management of the kirk-feffion, and the
intereſt of a ſmall capital, affords confiderable relief to the
poor, who for fome years have varied from 70 to 80.
There are few beggars in the parish, excepting on Friday,
on which there is always a market in the town of Peter-
head many on that day come in from the neighbouring.
parishes. At the communion, which is difpenfed once
every year, there is collected from L. 16 to L. 17 Sterling.
A collection of L-5 Sterling is fent each year to the In-
firmary
of Peterhead.
589
firmary of Aberdeen; and frequently very large collec-
tions are obtained in the church for the relief of particular
families, whofe fituation from fome unexpected difafter re-
quires immediate relief. Two annual diftributions are
made in the months of May and November, befides giving
largely at the communion, and on every Lord's day, to
perfons, whoſe fituation appears to the feffion fo indigent as
not to admit of a delay till the ordinary time for diftribu-
ting the poor's money.
School. The ſchoolmafter's falary, for a long ſpace of
time, was 13 bolls 3 firlots of meal, from the country part
of the parish, and L.3:6:8 Sterling from the town.
During the laſt vacancy, which happened in 1788, the
town of Peterhead petitioned the heritors of the pariſh to
permit them to get a ſchoolmaſter ſettled by a comparative
trial, to teach in concert with another ſchoolmafter, fettled
by Dr Anderſon's truſtees, who have the appointment of
feveral charity ſchools; that theſe two might form a kind
of academy for teaching Engliſh, Latin, Greek, writing,
arithmetic, and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics
and navigation; and engaged that if this fcheme were
adopted, they would advance the ſchoolmaſter's falary to
L. 15, befides the meal payable by the country part of the
parish, and give both the fchoolmafters places for teaching.
in the town-houſe.
The heritors granted this petition; Mr Adamſon was
found beft qualified on a comparative trial, and preſented
by the town of Peterhead. His falary at prefent is 13
bolls 3 firlots of meal from the country part of the parish,
L. 10 from the town of Peterhead, and L. 5 from the mer-
chant's box; he has likewife a fee of L. 2: 15: 6 as feffion-
clerk. The whole of his emoluments, with fchool-dues
and perquifites as feffion-clerk, will not exceed L. 35 Ster-
ling.
599
Statistical Account
ment.
}
ling. His colleague, Mr Smith, has L. 20 Sterling of fa
lary. Mr Adamfon teaches Latin and Engliſh, Mr Smith
writing and arithmetic, in feparate fchools. The number
of ſcholars who attend both ſchools is from 40 to 50, and
is feldom more. There are none at preſent who are taught
Greek, or any part of the mathematics, though Mr Adam-
fon is perfectly qualified to teach thefe, and every other
part allotted to him; he is a young man of very great abi-
lities. Mr Smith is likewife very affiduous in his depart-
There is befides another ſchoolmafter in the town,
who teaches writing, arithmetic, book-keeping and Latin,
without any falary. He has at prefent from 40 to 50 boys,
and 17 girls. There are likewife in town 9 women, who
teach the younger children reading, and the girls knitting
and ſewing; their number of ſcholars at preſent in winter
is about 150, and in fummer they are much more nume-
rous; only one of them has any falary, and ſhe has only
L. 2, 5 s. Sterling from the parents, whofe children attend
her ſchool. There is alfo in the fea-town of Boddom á
ſchoolmiſtreſs, who teaches about 20 children to read Eng-
liſh. Mr Shand, organiſt to the Scotch Epiſcopal chapel,
teaches to play on the harpfichord and guitar in the town
of Peterhead, but does not meet with that encouragement
which his talents and character deſerves.
Attempts have been made to improve the church-mufic
both in the Eſtabliſhed Church and in the Epifcopal cha-
pels; but the improvement is very flow, and from what-
ever cauſe it may proceed, a tafte for mufic is much leſs
frequent on the fea-coaft in Buchan than in the higher parts
of the county.
Students at the Univerfity.-Mr Adamfon, the ſchool-
maſter has attended the Divinity Hall for feveral years,
and is the only Student from this place at prefent at any
Univerfity.
of Peterhead.
591
Univerfity. I do not recollect above feven or eight who
have been at an Univerſity from this pariſh fince 1763.
Fuel.-The country part of this pariſh is ſupplied with
peat from the moffes; the town, partly with peats, and
partly with coals. From the great prejudice in favour of
peats, the moffes are nearly exhaufted, and the whole parish
will foon be obliged to make uſe of coals. It will probably
be of advantage to the farmers, who employ a great part
of fummer in managing and leading their peats, which
might be better employed in fallowing or driving lime and
dung to their farms.
Thirlage-Every fpecies of fervitude is abolished, ex-
cepting thirlage to the mills, which is univerfally confider-
ed as a heavy burden, and a great obftacle to improve-
ment.
Crofters. There are very few crofters in the parish.
Thoſe who have large farms complain of the want of them,
from the difficulty of finding fervants.
Wages.-The wages of fervants have increaſed very
much. Thirty years ago, a man-fervant could have been
hired for L. 2, 10s. Sterling in the year; they are now
from L. 5 to L. 8; maid-fervants were from 12 s. to 15 s.
in the half-year; they are at preſent from L. I to L. 1, 10 s.
Day-labourers were 8 d. each day in fummer, without their
victuals, they are now I s.; mafons and wrights were I s.
they are now I s. 6 d.; in harveſt, reapers get 1 s. each,
befides their victuals; the wages of other tradefmen and
day-labourers are increaſed in the fame proportion.
Language,
ই
592
Statistical Account
Language. The language ſpoken in this parish is the
broad Buchan dialect of the Engliſh, with many Scotti-
cifms, and ſtands much in need of reformation, which it is
to be hoped will foon happen, from the frequent refort of
polite people to the town in fummer.
The names of places in the pariſh ſeem to be derived
chiefly from the English and Gaelic. Thus, Alehoufe-bill,
(a houfe which the family of Raven's Craig uſed to fre-
quent as a tavern), Myrefide, Hayfield, Newfeat, Mount-
Pleafant, Scotch-mill are Engliſh; likewiſe, Stay the Voy-
age, (a place where the family of Marifchal uſed to halt in
their way from Inverugie to Peterhead), another Stay the
Voyage, from a tenant of the former place having carried
the name of his first place of refidence to a houſe in the
oppofite fide of the parish; Crofs-fold, from a place of wor
ſhip having been in that field before the Reformation. In-
vernettie, Auchtiegall, Glendevny, and Balmuir, I am in-
formed are Gaelic; and Blackboufe, which was fuppofed to
be Engliſh, I am informed, is likewife Gaelic; Blackhoufe
being derived from Blockhouse, which fignifies a place of
defence in front of a caftle. The truth is, Blackhouse, in
this pariſh, on the fide of the Ugie, is oppofite to the ruins
of an Old Caſtle, which belonged to the family of the
Cheynes in St Fergus, and which was their place of refi-
dence, long before the houfe of Inverugie was built, or
they had any connexion with the family of Marifchal, og
Keiths of Raven's Craig.
Volunteers. The people in general in the pariſh are not
fond of a military life; but in the preſent war, when they
are fenfible they have every thing that is valuable at ftake,
many have enlifted for the army; and in the town of Pe-
terhead, two companies of volunteers, 50 men each com-
pany, have turned out with the greateſt readiness for the
defence
1
of Peterhead.
593
:
:
:
defence of the town, and more if neceffary could eaſily have
been muſtered; they have likewife begun to enliſt for the
navy; and there is no doubt that the neceffary comple-
ment of 18 feamen, or 36 landmen, will foon be found.
Character-The people in the country part of the pa-
rifh are in general very diligent, temperate, peaceable, and
inoffenfive in their manners. I know of no crime for
which any perfon has been capitally convicted. They are
very punctual in their attendance at church, and obſervance
of divine ordinances; and their outward decency in times.
of public worſhip is very exemplary.
TOWN OF PETERHEAD.
Town.-About a mile fouth of the Ugie ftands the town
of Peterhead, latitude 57° 30'-33″ N. on a peninſula,
which projects into the German Ocean, and forms the
-eaftermoſt point of land in Scotland; it is called Peter's
Polle by the Dutch, and, as formerly mentioned, is fuppo-
fed to be the Cape taken notice of by Ptolemy. An
Ifbmus, which connects the town with the country on the
N. W. is only about 800 yards broad. The reſt of the
town is ſurrounded by the fea, which on the eaſt part is fo
near the houſes, that a bulwark is raifed to protect them
from high ftream-tides.
The town, with the adjacent lands, of confiderable value
and extent, formerly belonged to the Abbey of Deer. In
1560, Queen Mary appointed Robert Keith, fon of Wil-
liam 4th Earl Marifchal, Commendator of Deer; in 1587,
James VI. raiſed this Robert to the dignity of the peerage,
VOL. XVI.
4 F
by
594
Statiſtical Account
by the title of Lord Altree, having created the Abbey lands
a temporal lordship in his favour; this peerage became
extinct, and the Abbey lands fell to the Earl Marif-
chal. Anno 1637, William 6th Earl Marifchal obtained
a new charter from the Crown of the Abbey lands, befides
the tithes great and finall of the parish of Peterhead, the
parfonage of the church, falmon and white-fishing. The
following lands are mentioned, as fituate in the parish of
Peterhead: "Terras de Lebill, terras de Munchifbill, ter-
"ras de Granig, (at prefent Grange), de Raekill, (where
"the windmill at prefent ftands), de Fiſherburn, de Peter-
"head cum Anchoragiis ejufdem." After the forfeiture
of Earl Marifchal in 1715, the town, with the lands be-
longing to that family in the parish, were bought by a
fiſhing company in England; which failing in 1726, fold
the town and thefe lands to the Governors of the Merchant
Maiden Hoſpital of Edinburgh, at the price, if I am not
mifinformed, of L. 3000 Sterling. The rental amounted
to 191 bolls of bear, 199 bolls of meal, 2 bolls of oats, and
L. 80 Sterling of money, befides the feu-duty for property
in Peterhead. The Governors let thefe lands to one tackſ-
man at L. 245 Sterling, at which rent it remained till about
20 years ago.
}
A few years before that period, the Governors expofed
all their property in this parish to fale, and it was purcha-
fed by a gentleman at Edinburgh for L. 10,000 Sterling,
who thought the price high, and had an option to confider
for fome time, and relinquish the bargain if he thought pro-
per; when the time was nearly elapfed, he gave in his re-
nunciation, which was accepted very readily by one of the
Governors, who never approved of the fale, and put the
paper into the charter-cheft, marking on the back of it, a
miraculous eſcape. He was right in his opinion; in 1755
the rent was raiſed to L. 870, and in 1794 to L. 1040 Ster-
ling,
of Peterhead.
595
ling, befides the money which the Governors are daily re-
ceiving for ground which is feued off, and amounts in a
few years to a very confiderable fum.
L..
7,
The town was formed into a burgh of barony by George
Earl Mariſchal in 1593; it was then called Keith Inch.
The number of feuers to whom the charter was granted
was only 14. The ground feued out, about 3 acres; the
purchaſe-money 30co merks, and the mail or feu-duty
IIS. Scotch. From the boundaries of the different
feus, they feem to have been placed from the Ronheads and
Keith Inch, the eaſtern points, to the remoteft extremity of
what is at preſent called the town of Peterhead, for one of
the feus is bounded by the Kirkburn, which divides the
town on the ſouth-weſt fide from the links, where no hou-
fes are erected. The original feuers appear to have been.
fifhers, for each of them is permitted to have a boat for
white-fiſhing, on paying the teind-fiſh, and "fic as happens
"to paſs to far fiſhing, the ſaid Earl and his forefaids ſhall
"have fuch teynd thereof as the inhabitants of Anstruther
"pay." When the number of feuers fhall amount to 30
perfons, they were obliged to build a tolbooth, or pay 200
merks to the Earl for building it; they were likewife enga-
ged to build fufficient ſtone flated houfes, 24 feet in length,
and 16 in breadth, in fuch places as may be found moſt for
the decoration of the burgh, and to pay L. 2 yearly till they
build fuch houſes. They were farther obliged to build and
erect a bulwark in the mouth of the haven called Port
Henry, (now the North Harbour), "for eaſement of their
feafaring veffels, and fhall accomplish the fame half a
year after that the faid Earl hath received the graffums
66
60
❝ of 20 tenants."
The town at prefent holds of the Governors of the Mer-
chant Maiden Hofpital of Edinburgh as fuperiors. The
Government of the town is vested in a bailie and 8 coun-
fellors.
596
Statiftical Account
fellors. The bailie is named by the fuperiors, and has his
commiffion from them; the counſellors are chofen annually
by the feuers, at a general meeting called for that purpoſe;
4
of theſe are chofen from among the merchants, 2 from
the ſhipmaſters, and 2 from the trades. The bailie exer-
cifes his judicial authority, or legal jurifdiction, competent
in a burgh of barony; and the counſellors, jointly with the
bailie, have the adminiſtration of the common good of the
town; the public revenue of which, about 30 years ago, did
not exceed L. 135 Sterling; it is now about L. 240, refulting
from the fhore-dues, petty cuftoms, and the rent of fome
land adjacent to the town, which was formerly a common,
but now the abfolute property of the feuers. The whole
of this revenue is annually laid out in improving the har-
bour, ſtreets, other public works, and for the good of the
town.
.
The town is nearly in form of a crofs, and may be di-
vided into four parts: The Kirk-town, Ronheads, Keith
Inch or Quenzie, and the town properly fo called. A ſmall
ropery is carried on; a number of day-labourers and ma-
nufacturers refide in the Kirktown, which formerly was
disjoined from, but is now almoſt connected with the town
by one continued ſtreet. The feus extend no farther than
the Kirktown to the weftward, which is feparated by a
ſmall rivulet from the manfe and the links, where there is
excellent golfing, and where the young men of the town,
and many far advanced in life, reſort for amuſement. For-
merly there was a fishing-boat with a crew which belonged
to this part of the town, but all the boats at prefent belong
to the Ronheads, the north east part of the town, where the
fiſhermen, failors, pilots, and a few fhipmaſters refide.
Here there are 9 boats, which employ about 40 hands; all
theſe fiſhermen are likewife pilots, and are therefore not ſo
fteady in catching fiſh as the people in Boddom; they are
very
of Peterhead.
597
very hardy and intrepid as pilots, go out boldly to meet
ſhips in the greateſt ſtorms, and have the character of being
as ready and diſcreet as any on the coaft. On the Keith
Inch, the north part of which is called the Greenhill, there
are feveral excellent houfes, and fome refpectable families.
Here, on the fouthermoft part, is an old caftle, built by
George Earl Marifchal in the beginning of laft century.
He was employed at the Court of Denmark on an embaffy,
and brought over the Princeſs of Denmark, who was mar
ried to King James VI. It is faid he built this caftle from
a model of the palace of the King of Denmark; it has
been long uſed as a granary and ſtorehouſe, and though the
walls and roof are ſtanding, is in a ruinous ftate.
Near this there is a ſmall fort, and a guard-houſe, with
a battery of four 12, and four 18 pounders, brought here in
the courſe of the laft war. There were once feven cannon
placed at the mouth of the two harbours, befides fome brafs
pieces in the tolbooth, which were all carried to London
after the year 1715. The Keith Inch formerly at ftream-
tides was entirely feparated from the town, the tide flowing
from the North to the South Harbour. This is now pre-
vented by a mound of earth, raiſed ſo high as never to be
overflowed by the fea; on the north fide of this are placed
the flesh-houſe, a number of fheds for coals, lime, and tim-
ber, and a falt manufacture; on the fouth fide is the ware-
houſe, two ſmall docks or flips for fhip-building, and the
South Harbour.
Harbours.-There are two harbours, the North and the
South. The North Harbour is the oldeft. There is a
pier of very large ftones on the north-eaft fide, without any
cement, but which feldom needs repairs; fhips fometimes
enter this harbour, and are laid up for the winter; in gene-
ral, it is only employed by large boats from the Murray
frith,
598
Statistical Account
frith, and the fiſhing and pilot boats of Peterhead. There
is 11 feet depth of water at ftream-tides in this harbour.
The channel is narrow.
The South Harbour is rendered much more commodious
than it was formerly by the channel being deepened. There
are now two excellent piers on the ſouth and weft fides of
the harbour, and they form with the Quenzie, or Keith
Inch, on the eaft fide, a capacious bafon, where at preſent
above 60 ſhips may remain in great fafety, and with ſome
additional expence in clearing the channel, and erecting
another pier or quay on the eaſt ſide, I am informed it may
contain about 100 veffels.
The fouth pier, which ſuftains the whole force of the
German Ocean, (and at ſome times, from the waves that
break over the parapet, the appearance is very grand and
tremenduous), is 460 feet in length, 42 feet wide at the
broadest part, 40 feet high from the foundation of the head
to the top of the parapet. The weft pier is 633 feet in
length, the parapet-wall 325 feet; the height at the head
from the foundation to the top of the parapet-wall is 26
feet.
They are both of large pieces of granite, fquared and
neatly dreffed, and are thought of fufficient ſtrength
and firmness (with a little attention) to refift the force of
the fea the foot-path and quay is broad and commodious,
and the workmanſhip on the whole is well executed.
The two piers, with expences in deepening the harbour,
have coft the town above L. 5000 Sterling; of this they
have received about L. 4000 from Government, the Go-
vernors of the Merchant Maiden Hofpital, and contribu-
tions from a few individuals. The depth of water is from
12 to 14 feet at ſtream-tides, and from 8 to 9 feet at neap-
tides.
Confiderable
1
3
of Peterhead.
599
Confiderable improvements may ftill be made on this
harbour. By carrying the fouth pier farther into the ſea,
ſhips of any burden that are employed in trade might find
fhelter here. Without extending the pier, the channel.
may be deepened two or three feet, and the two harbours
might be joined into one, by cutting the bridge which di-
vides the town from the Quenzie. If this was accompliſh-
ed, it would fave many valuable ſhips from being wrecked,
which cannot, from ftrong wefterly gales, fetch any of the
friths, or any of the harbours betwixt them, but might
reach this harbour; and if the two harbours were united,
they could go out to fea with any wind, which would re-
move the great inconvenience to which fhips are fo fre-
quently ſubjected by being confined in the South Harbour
from contrary winds. I have ſeen this harbour full of
fhips, which were detained for upwards of fix weeks by
the wind blowing from the S. or S. E.
This improvement has been pointed out to the inhabi-
tants by fome engineers, whom they have confulted: there
can be no doubt of its being practicable, and of its utility
when executed. By an eftimate from Mr John Gwyn, the
whole expence for making the two piers already finiſhed,
and uniting the two harbours, was only L. 6891: 3:6
Sterling; but were it three times this expence, the advan-
tages are obviouſly fo immenſely great, that it ſhould be
attempted, and if once begun, there can be little doubt it
would be executed. Perhaps it could not be eafily effec-
tuated by the inhabitants of this town; but the benefit they
would receive from this improvement is fo great, that I
hope fome time foon they will ſeriouſly think of commen-
cing it, even if they fhould mortgage the whole of their
town's funds for that purpoſe, or lend fome of their private
property on the fecurity of the certain advance of revenue
from the increased number of fhips that would enter the
harbour;
3
:
Goo
Statistical Account
harbour; befides, it would be attended with fuch advan-
tages to the trade and navigation of this island in general,
that it is to be hoped, on a proper repreſentation, it might
be accomplished by a general contribution, or aid from
Government, or by obtaining an act of Parliament for rai-
fing the fhore-dues. The joining the two harbours was
part of the original plan when the two new piers were
erected. When this work was begun, they had little pro-
fpect of receiving fo much money as was afterwards ob-
tained; and from what happened then, it gives encourage-
ment to expect that money would not be wanting, if fo
uſeful an improvement was commenced. The Governors
of the Merchant Maiden Hofpital are much intereſted in
this plan being carried into effect; the rife of their rents
for lands near the town, and the value of feus would be fo
much increafed, that the advantages accruing to them can-
not eaſily be calculated; befides the fatisfaction of contri-
buting to make Peterhead the greateſt and moſt thriving
town in the north of Scotland.
It deferves attention likewiſe, that in time of war, this
being a head-land, is the place where privateers moft fre-
quently keep their ſtation, and pick up ſhips which might
find ſhelter here, but for want of accefs to a harbour, are
obliged to beat up againſt the wind for feveral days.
Mineral Well.-A little to the weft of the entrance to
the South Harbour is the mineral well, the virtues of which
have been known above 200 years.
It has long been called the Wine Well. The country
people who refort hither in fummer, and the greateſt part
of the inhabitants of this parish ftill give it the fame name.
Whence it ſhould have received this appellation is not eafy
to ſay, nor is it of great importance to determine. From
the water fparkling in a glafs, and exhilarating the fpirits,
!
:
of Peterhead.
601
it may have been compared to Champagne; but this con-
jecture is not fupported by any record or tradition.
An analyſis of this water is given by Dr Laing. From
the reſult of his experiments, in 12 lb. avoirdupois weight
of water, there are found,
Aerated iron,
Muriated iron,
Muriated lime,
Silicious earth,
Gypfum,
Glauber's falt,
Common falt,
Fixed air, cubic inches,
3 grains.
3024
7
2
2
134
7
83-1
This water has long been defervedly in repute,
for ge-
neral debility, diſorders of the ftomach and bowels, flatu-
lencies and indigeftion, nervous complaints which flow
from theſe cauſes, and difeafes peculiar to the fair fex; and
in all theſe diſorders, I can from 30 years obfervation and
experience affirm, I know of no remedy more efficacious,
when attention is paid at the fame time to regimen, exer-
cife, and amuſement, and taking now and then a gentle
emetic or laxative, as circumftances may require. In moft
cafes where the mineral water is ufed, the cold bath is pro-
per, and promotes its good effects, which are an increafe of
appetite, ſtrength, and ſpirits.
There is no difeafe for which people refort to the well
more frequently than gravel, though with a confiderable
degree of hazard, as I have ſeen numerous inftances of ne-
phritic paroxyfms brought on by the uſe of the water, and
where calculi are formed in the kidneys or bladder, this ef-
fect is naturally to be expected.
The water, as a cleanfer and tonic, may have fome
VOL. XVI.
4 G
effe&
602
Statistical Account
effect in preventing the diſeaſe altogether; but after a
perfon has for fome time been afflicted with it, I think the
cafe is very different, and cannot fee fufficient reaſons for
recommending the water but with the utmoſt caution.
If the water, from the quantity of fixed air, is fuppofed to
have a power to diffolve calculous concretions, fixed air
may be given in any quantity, and is frequently recom-
mended, without any of the ftimulating ingredients which
are found in Peterhead water; and if it is fuppofed to ope-
rate as a cleanſer by its diuretic qualities, liquids may be
given that are leſs irritating.
Perhaps I may exprefs myfelf ftrongly; but the fimple
idea of driving gravel or fmall calculi through the kidneys,
ureters, or urethra, with cold iron, has always affected me
with fome degree of terror, eſpecially when we must be
ignorant of the quantity of gravel to be diſcharged, or the
fize, ſhape, and furface (whether ſmooth or rough) of the
calculi that are to pass through thefe paffages.
When a nephritic paroxyfm happens without the uſe of
any medicine, and is probably an effort of nature from irri-
tation, to throw off the peccant matter, how careful are we
to avoid every thing which may produce or increaſe inflam-
mation, and to prefcribe the gentleft diuretics, and the
mildeft
*Perhaps a ſteady ufe of common fpring water, in place of ale or beer,
might be equally ferviceable, and lefs dangerous in preventing gravel.
A gentleman, aged 42, with whom I am acquainted, has for theſe laſt
20 years of his life fearce tafted any malt liquor, from an apprehenfion of
gravel, and has confined himſelf to drinking cold water. His grandfather
and great-grandfather died of that diforder; his father was cut for the
ftone. He himself has hitherto kept entirely free from this complaint.
From a fedentary life, and fevere ftudy, he has at prefent fome complaints,
which probably are unconnected with gravel; but being apprehenſive of
that diſorder, he is thinking of trying the Peterhead water, becauſe his
father thought he received benefit from it, who, after having tried it for
pear 30 years, was cut for the ſtone.
of Peterhead.
боз
mildeft diluents, to relax and footh, by fomentations and
opiates, rather than irritate by tonics and flimulants.
The mineral water is fometimes recommended for a ſup-
preffion of urine. When this proceeds from great debility,
or a paralytic affection of the longitudinal fibres of the blad-
der, it may then be fometimes ferviceable; but when
there is any fufpicion of inflammation, or when it proceeds
from fpafm, I fhould not think it fafe to recommend the
water; and confidering the difficulty of determining from
which of thefe caufes the diforder may proceed, the utmoft
caution is more neceffary.
Dr Laing has recommended it like wife for dropfy. Of
the propriety of this I have great doubts. There are many
diuretics preſcribed in that diforder, which are certainly
more efficacious, and when tonics are, indicated, they may
be given in a more concentrated form; when the diſeaſe
proceeds only from relaxation, perhaps no great danger is
to be apprehended from ufing the water; but when it pro-
ceeds, which is frequently the cafe, from obftructions in the
liver, I ſhould be afraid to recommend it. I would not
wish to interdict a dropfical perfon, who may have a great
thirſt, the uſe of drink; but perhaps a folution of cream of
tartar, in common water, which is gently laxative, diuretic,
and deobftruent, and which has been fo ftrongly recom-
mended by Dr Home in his Clinical Lectures, in dropfical
cafes, would be more proper for allaying thirſt.
It is really not poffible precifely to afcertain what quan-
tity of the mineral water may be taken in cafes where it is
proper to uſe it freely.
It is prudent to begin with ſmall quantities, and increaſe
the dofe as the ſtomach, or the ftrength of the perſon will
permit. When the appetite is mended, and the water
paffes off eafily, the perfon need not be uneafy at thinking
be has taken too large a quantity. I have known it drunk
with
604
Statiſtical Account
with fafety to the amount of two Scotch pints in the courfe
of the day; though there are not many who can eaſily take
fo large a quantity.
It is certainly taken to moft advantage at the fountain-
head, or in the room where the company affemble to drink
the water; there are many inftances, however, of people of
great irritability, and who are very weak, beginning to
drink it in bed in the morning with fuccefs.
There is frequently a numerous genteel company here,
drinking the water during the feafon, which depends very
much on the weather; it commonly begins in the month.
of June, and terminates in Auguft or September.
There are fuch crowds of country people who refort to-
it in the month of July, that frequently the fpring does not
afford ſo much water as they would drink, and before 6 or
7 o'clock in the morning, the well is often literally dry.
The company indeed at that time are not eafily fatisfied,
for many of them drink from 6 to 8 Scotch pints in the
day, befides from a mutchkin to a Scotch pint of ſea-water,
and eating large quantities of dilfe. They cannot be con-
vinced, that the mineral water can be of any ſervice to
their complaints without proving laxative, which is not its
ordinary effect, and they have generally very fevere exer-
cife during the time they remain here; they are often
much reduced in their ſtrength before they leave this place;
they frequently afk advice in what manner the water:
fhould be taken, but with great reluctance follow it, if the
water has no fenfible effects during their stay here.
They come here indiſcriminately for all difeafes, without
taking any previous advice. I have feen many, who were
in the laſt ſtage of a confumption, and others who had been
drinking the mineral water for ſeveral days in large quan-
tities, with conftant fever on them, and whom with diffi-
culty I have perfuaded to return home.
I
They
ان
of Peterhead.
605
They come in great crouds hither, from the diſtance of
30 or 40 miles; and in the higher parts of the county, fer-
vants frequently make it an article in their agreement with
their mafters, to have 5 or 6 days of the Wine Well at
Peterhead, whether they have any complaints or not.
Many have applied to me for advice. In general they
fay their complaints are graveliſh; but, on enquiring more
minutely, it is flatulency and indigeftion, which is com-
monly called a windy gravel: and I believe this is one rea-
fon why the water is held in fuch repute for graveliſh
complaints. When I have reafon to think it is really gra-
vel, I always adviſe them to drink the water very mode-
rately, if I cannot perfuade them to abstain from it alto-
gether, and moft frequently fend them home, with advice
to take ſuch medicines as appear moſt proper for them.
There are great numbers who refort hither, with cuta-
neous eruptions, fcrofula, and glandular fwellings; thefe
find much more benefit from the fea-water and bathing in
the ſea, than from the mineral water; but they muſt drink
out of the Wine Well, whatever their diſorder may be.
Dr Laing has recommended the Peterbead water for the
fcrofula, from its affinity to muriated barytes. I have not
feen any effects from that medicine, which fhould induce
me to give the mineral water a preference to fea-water and
bathing in the fea. Indeed, I know no diſeaſe, in the treat-
ment of which one can ſpeak with lefs confidence of the
effects of medicine, it is fo fluctuating in its appearance, and
the alterations, that appear in the patient, depend fo much
on the different ſeaſons of the year, peculiarities of age, and
conſtitution, that what is merely the efforts of nature, is
frequently attributed to a medicine, which may be in
vogue, or may ſerve a prefent intereſt.
Great exertions have been made for the accommodation
of the genteel company who refort hither on account of
their
606
Statistical Account
their health, and perfons of every kind may find con-
venient lodgings. Two cold baths, a room where the com-
pany may affemble to drink the water, a large room for
dancing, a billiard-room, and other accommodations, have
been built by the fociety of Free Mafons, and are to be
found in the Keith Lodge, immediately contiguous to the
well, which was erected about 30 years ago. They are at
preſent employed in adding to the lodge an hotel, with a
large fuite of bed-rooms, for the accommodation of the wa-
ter-drinkers; and which, by being ſeparated from the New
Inn only by the high-road, and immediately oppofite to
it, will be found extremely convenient, and, it is hoped,
agreeable to the company who refort to this place.
The New Inn was originally built by the late Earl of
Errol, from a defire to promote the intereft of this town,
and for the accommodation of the water-drinkers. A great
number of houſes, where elegant lodgings may be found,
have been erected by many of the inhabitants, merely with
a view to accommodate ftrangers. There is only wanting
a warm bath, and a bathing machine on the fea-beach.
The company deſerve every encouragement, as the mo-
ney left by them in fummer is very confiderable.
Buildings.-Were a perfon, who had refided in Peter-
head about 30 years ago, to come here for the firſt time
fince that period, he would be very much furpriſed with
the prefent appearance of the town, both as to its fize, and
the improvement in the ftyle of building. Several acres
which were under the plough, contiguous to the principal
ftreet, have been feued, and are now decorated with fome
of the beft ftreets and houſes in town. One acre, which
at that period yielded from L. 1 to L. 1, 10s. Sterling of
rent, would now produce nearly L. 150 Sterling for houſe-
rent.
Thirty
of Peterhead.
607
Thirty years ago, peat-ftacks and dunghills ftood on the
principal ſtreets in front of the houſes; theſe nuiſances are
now removed, and it is allowed by ftrangers to be as clean
and neat in its appearance as any town in Scotland.
The houſes are not magnificent, but they are commo
dious and elegant, and are built of the fineft granite, which
is dreſſed ſo as to have a moſt agreeable appearance, and
remains long without being fullied by the weather.
Near the head of the principal ftreet, where the tolbooth
formerly flood, is an clegant town-houſe, 60 feet long and
40 feet wide, with a ſpire, which is 110 feet from the
threſhold to the ball; within the fpire there is an excellent
bell and a very fine clock. This houfe has coft L. 1600,
and before being finiſhed, will coft L. 2000 Sterling.
Water.-There is no foft water in the town. This is
inconvenient for the purpoſes of washing, and deprives the
inhabitants of one great luxury, the pleaſure of drinking
pure ſpring water, and this circumſtance is peculiarly dif
agreeable to ſtrangers.
The water within the town is feldom uſed for tea; wa-
ter for that purpoſe is brought from a well about 70 yards
eastwards from the manfe, where there is a ciftern which
was formerly open, and where people employed to carry
the water dipped their ankers very freely, without much
attention to cleannefs. That nuifance is now removed;
the cistern a few years ago was covered; the water taken
from this well is not foft, but it is pleaſant to the tafte,
and is fuppofed to extract the taſte and flavour of tea bet-
ter than water that is much fofter. It has for time im-
memorial been called the Tea Well, and many people
fubfift entirely by carrying water from it to the town.
The water in the town, and at a ſmall diſtance from it,
is found from a long experience to be well calculated for
making
608
Statistical Account
making beer of a fuperior quality to what is produced from
the beſt water in other places. This town was once famous
for having ale of an excellent quality, and it was then to
be found in moft houſes. Formerly confiderable quantities.
of beer were exported from Peterhead, and they are alive.
in this town, who have feen figns upon taverns in Edin-
burgh, "Peterhead beer and ale to be fold." There is
ftill ale to be found in this town in many private houſes,
which ſupports its former character; but at preſent the
fupply is moſtly from a brewery in the neighbourhood, not
in this pariſh, and two ſmaller ones in the town, and from
which the inhabitants frequently get ale of a very good
quality. It muſt appear likewiſe extraordinary, but from
whatever cauſe it may proceed, nothing is more certain,
than that the wheaten bread of this town is of a very fuperior
quality to that in moft other places; ftrangers, of whom
there are great numbers here in fummer, all take notice of
it; and I have feen many people who have been in moſt
towns on the continent of Europe, who declare they never
faw better bread in the courſe of their travels. Shall this
be attributed likewife to the water? or the air of the town?
Many perfons who have been accuſtomed for a fhort time
to eat the bread of this town, have fent for it from the di-
ftance of upwards of 30 miles.
Trade and Shipping.-This town has for a long time
been a place of fome trade; and at a diſtant period, ſhips
have failed from this to the Baltic, Mediterranean feas, and
America. From the teftimony of a very refpectable in-
habitant, a few days ago, aged 92, who is very diftinct in
her recollection, I am informed, in 1720 there were only
three fhips which failed from this place. By the fame
perfon, though this may not be the proper place to men-
tion it, I am informed, that before the year
1745, all the
potatoes
of Peterhead.
Gog
potatoes brought to this town were imported from Ireland;
that in that year fome were brought from Strichen, about 14
or 15 miles from this place, probably from Lord Strichen's
farm; that 60 years ago there were no carts in the town
or parish.
From an anonymous manufcript, which appears to de-
ſerve ſome regard, I find there were only fix fhips belong-
ing to this town in 1727. At prefent there are 26, and
2 ready to be launched. Some are employed in the fo-
reign, the greateſt part in the coafting trade. The hips
are from 40 to 200 tons, and will amount nearly to 3000
tons dead weight. This is more than double the ſhipping
of Banff, a royal burgh, the metropolis of that county, and
a town of great opulence.
It is only of late that the trade of this town has been
in a proper channel, and any attention bestowed on fiſhings
and manufactures. Much remains fill to be done; but
from the exertions that have been made, and ftill continue
with increaſing ardour, it is to be hoped this will foon be
the moſt thriving town in the north of Scotland.
Formery there was too much connexion with an illicit
trade from Gottenburgh and Holland, that has now almoft
ceafed.
The fish on this coaft are all caught by boats. I have
often been ſurpriſed attempts are not made to carry on this
bufinels with fhips, as the Dutch fish on this coaft every
fummer. Ships are fent every feafon; and I believe, du-
ring the greateſt part of the year from London, who fupply
the market there with live cod and flat fish, which they
catch in the Pentland frith, in that neighbourhood, or on
this coaft. There are two, fometimes three veffels, fent to
fiſh at Barrahead; they carry out 16 fishermen each, and ‹
the average cargoes of each veffel are from 12 to 14 tons of
dried cod and ling, befides the oil from fun-fiſh which they
VOL. XVI.
catch,
4 H
610
Statiſtical Account
catch, which is fometimes confiderable.
The cod-fith is
generally fent to the Mediterranean, and for 20 years back-
wards has been thought a good trade.
Some years ago there were two veffels fent to Iceland
from this place to fish for cod; but after a trial for feveral
years, the trade was dropped. The hike number of veffels
was fent to the herring-fishery, which in general was not
thought a profitable trade.
!
There is one ſhip fent to the Greenland fishing, which
muſters 36 men; ſhe has hitherto been rather unſucceſsful ;
it is hoped, however, the company concerned with the ſhip
will ſtill continue the trade, as the fituation of this place is
certainly favourable for an enterpriſe of this kind.
The principal attention at prefent is beftowed on manu-
factures, in which many different companies are concerned.
This was introduced only in 1764, by two young ladies of
the name of Park, who began the manufacture of white
threads on a ſmall ſcale; and when it was commenced,
there was no yarn could be ſpun in the town above four
hanks. The ſpinfters were foon brought to ſpin from eight
to ten hanks. The Mifs Parks were fo attentive to the bu-
fineſs, and ſo honeſt in their dealings, that their threads
were as much eſteemed as any in the kingdom. They ex-
tended their bleachfield, and were always certain of a ready
fale for any quantity they manufactured. They have re-
tired a few years ago from buſineſs.
There are now in the parish and neighbourhood, with
which the merchants here are connected, five bleachfields,
where threads of an excellent quality are manufactured.
A woollen-cloth manufacture has been eſtabliſhed for a
confiderable time, and another for cotton for ſeveral years!
A falt manufacture has lately been eſtabliſhed here ; like-
wiſe a nail and tin manufacture, both in their infancy, but
will
of Peterbead.
611
will probably foon increaſe, as there is a greater demand
for theſe articles than the company can find hands to fur-
niſh.
A few years ago there was a diftillery for whisky, which
was permitted to be rectified; there was a very good imi-
tation of gin, brandy, cinnamon water, and other foreign
fpirits. The whiſky and cinnamon water were excellent.
The late act of Parliament put a flop to this diflillery. A
few months ago it was in contemplation to make bricks
and tiles; the clay on the piece of ground pitched upon
for that purpoſe was not of fufficient depth. This manu-
facture is much wanted, and probably will foon take place
in fome other part of the parish. A tannery is inftantly
to be eſtabliſhed.
The town is excellently ſupplied with tradefmen of all
kinds, particularly wrights and mafons, many of whom
are not only fit to perform the operative part of their bufi-
nefs, but qualified to give and execute plans of houſes, and
are employed for that purpoſe, not only in the town, but
in many places in the country at a confiderable diſtance.
All kinds of houſehold-furniture are made in the neatest
and moſt ſubſtantial manner. There is one turner, who
employs two or three hands beſides himſelf; he is a very
ingenious young man, and turns a variety of articles fo
neatly, that his ſhop is reforted to by moſt ſtrangers who
frequent this town, and his goods are commiffioned from
many places at a diſtance.
There is frequent intercourſe betwixt this place and Nor-
way and the Baltic. The coal-trade is carried on pretty
briſkly. A great quantity of goods is imported from Lon-
'don, fuch as porter, hops, flour, fugar, tea, fruit, fpiceries,
&c. which not only ſupply the town, but a large diſtrict
of country.-A great part of this trade formerly be-
longed to Fraserburgh, a ſmall town about 18 miles from
this,
612
Statiſtical Account
this, at the entrance of the Moray frith; it has now taken
a different channel, and confiderable quantities of goods are
tranſported by carriers to Fraferburgh, and the neighbour-
hood of that town.
The trade with London is moftly carried on by fhips be-
longing to a company at Banff, who have a few ſhips con-
ftantly employed in bringing goods from London to Peter-
head, Fraserburgh, and Banff. There is generally one of
theſe traders here every two or three weeks. I am glad to
find the merchants in this town are to employ their own
fhips in this trade. There is a very great value of eggs,
butter, cheeſe, fometimes of beef and pork, exported from
this port to London.
A great quantity of victual is exported from this har-
bour, and purchaſed moftly by merchants in this place,
partly on commiffion, and partly on fpeculation.
There are many articles from the Carron Company
brought hither; likewife from the manufacturing towns of
Mancheſter, Leeds, Sheffield, and Birmingham. Goods to
a confiderable amount are imported from Sunderland,
Newcaſtle, Hull, Leith, Glafgow, Aberdeen, &c.; and
by a list I have feen from the waiter of the principal
Inn here, I find the number of riders and merchants on
bufinefs, who lodged there from the 16th of May 1793 to
the 16th of May 1794, was 153. A ftate of the trade
and manufactures in this town will be beſt known, by ex-
hibiting as accurate an account of the imports and exports
as can be obtained.
Imports
of Peterhead.
613
Imports of the following goods for the years under mentioned.
From Nov. 25. 1792 to ditto 1793 ar-
rived in this port 518 veffels, 416 of
which were ſtrangers; from Nov.
25. 1793 to ditto 1794 arrived in
this port 471 veffels, 400 of which
were ftrangers.
L. 2, 10 s.
Flax mats at
the boll,
Lime at 2s. 6d.
ders at 4 s. the
Coals and cin-
boll,
value,
Foreign wood,
ways, value,
wood coaft-
Spey and other
From Nov. 25. 1789 to Nov. 25. 1790, L. 1277 L.
552 B.
From ditto 1790 to
ditto
From ditto
1791 to
ditto
From ditto
1792 to
ditto
1792, 1515
1793, 1249
From ditto
1793 to
ditto
1791, 1463 479 4906 3712 1441
984 3630 4769 1582
1344 7075 5113 764
1794, 759 1023 7659 3653
2625 B.6019|M. 997
764
Average of five years in money,
L.1252 L. 876 L.1036 L. 506 L. 2774
Prior to 1792, there was an annual importation of iron
from Sweden of about 30 tons; fince that time it has been
brought coaftways from Leith and Aberdeen, and the quan-
tity is fuppofed nearly the fame.
Tiles, bricks, and flates are imported, fuppofed to the va-
lue of L. 600 Sterling each year.
From the variety of packages, and incorrect manner of
clearing out bale goods at the Cuſtomhouſe, it is impoffible
to afcertain the quantity of goods under that denomination;
but from Leeds, Mancheſter, Birmingham, Carron, Glaf-
gow, c. they may be eſtimated at L. 6000 Sterling an-
nually. The grofs amount in value of goods brought hither
from London, in groceries, teas, hops, flour, graſs-ſeeds,
porter, and many other neceffaries and luxuries of life for
theſe three laſt years, is fuppofed to be L. 12,000 each
year.
It is fuppofed there is not lefs than 9000 lb. of tea im-
ported.
From 20 to 24 pipes of red Port and white wine are im-
ported by way of Leith; 22 pipes, at L. 50 Sterling each
pipe, L. 1100 Sterling.
Some
!
1
614
Statistical Account
Some claret and Madeira are imported, but of theſe the
quantity is not confiderable.
From 10 to 12 puncheons of rum, bought at Leith, Glaſ-
gow, and Greenock, are imported here, which coſt about
L. 600 Sterling. The value for any other fort of foreign
fpirits is not confiderable, excepting what is fmuggled,
which is not known.
The quantity of Britiſh ſpirits ſold here is from 4000 to
5000 gallons; at 4 s. per gallon, L. 900 Sterling; this in-
cludes whiſky, and all forts of Britiſh made ſpirits.
From 800 to 900 kegs of fpruce beer are imported from
Dantzick; alſo a confiderable quantity of afhes, honey,
ropes, &c. ſuppoſed to be L. 1500 Sterling.
From L. 200 to L. 300 Sterling value in clover and flax-
feed has been annually imported from Rotterdam for fome
years paft.
Exports. I have formerly mentioned, that there are
about 50 tons of kelp made on the fhores of this parish;
from 400 to 600 barrels of cod caught here, falted, and ſent
to the London market; from 20 to 30 tons of dried cod
and ling, caught at the Hebrides, exported from this place,
and generally fent to Barcelona; about 400 barrels caught
in the Highlands, are annually exported from this harbour.
About 50 barrels of falted falmon caught in the Ugie muft
be included in the exports. About 1000 bolls of potatoes
raiſed in the parish, and moſtly on the lands adjacent to the
town, are fent each year either to Norway or England.
From 600 to 800 tons of kerb and carriage-way ftones are
annually fent to London, Lynn, and other places, and are
generally fold here at 13 s. per ton.
Exports
of Peterhead.
615
}
Exports of different Species of Grain the following Years
from the Harbour of Peterbead.
Beans and Bear. Oats. Meal.
peale.
1
Bolls.
Bolls. Bolls. Bolls.
From Nov. 25.
1789 to Nov. 25. 1790,
From ditto
1790 to
ditto 1791,
251
428 1178
1942
320 11,945
1249 15,552
From ditto
1791 to
From ditto
1792 to
ditto
ditto
1792,
2201
893
1424 6524
1793,
1282
339 6598
From ditto
1793 to ditto
1794,
30 572
525 5460
Total for five years,
929
5867 385746,079
186
1173
771 9216
482 L. 5760
482|L.
for the laſt five
Average of the last five years,
Average of the value of the above for
the last five years, peaſe 14 s. bear
16s. oats 12s. 6d. and meal 12s. 6d.
Total value of grain exported from Peterhead each year,
years,
L. 130L. 9381.
For two or three years paft, from 130 to
L. 7310
O O
140 tons of
butter are annually fhipped at the port of Peterhead, which
is all made and cured within the ſpace of from 15 to 18
miles in the vicinity of the town of Peterhead. This is now
moftly fent to the London market; formerly all the butter
from this corner was fent to the different ports in the frith
of Forth; part is ftill fent thither. For fome years paſt the
butter has fold from L. 56 to L. 60 Sterling per ton; on an
average L. 58, 135 tons would be L. 7830 Sterling. From
160 to 180 tons cheeſe are annually fhipped; they all go
to the different ports fouth from Aberdeen to Berwick, and
fell from L. 17 to L. 20 Sterling per ton.
On an average,
170 tons, at L. 18, 10s. will be L. 3145 Sterling *. Of
late
*The quantity of butter and chcefe exported is by fome perfons rec◄
Koned high. I have reaſon, however, to think it is accurate, as I have my
information from Mr John Sellar, a principal merchant in this town, who
is well acquainted with this branch of trade, and affures me, he himſelf
exports more than one half of what is ftated in the eſtimate.
616
Statiſtical Account
}
late years a good deal of beef and pork has been fent to the
London market, and anfwers very well.
About 60 boxes of eggs, each box containing 150 dozen,
and ſuppoſed to be worth at London L. 400 Sterling in all,
exported annually from this town.
Manufactures.-There are 52 twift-mills in the town of Pe-
terhead, employing conftantly 334 people in doubling, twift-
ing, and making up threads, and will manufacture 104,900
fpindles of yarn; this will employ 800 fpinners, who will
earn 2 s. 6 d. per week each. The greateſt part of theſe
threads are bleached, and made from Dutch flax, a confide-
rable quantity of the yarns are bought at Banff, Huntly,
Keith, &c. The threads are fent to the London market;
and when manufactured, will fell for about L. 20,000 Ster-
ling. Women-fervants employed in doubling, will earn
from 2 s. 6 d. to 4 s. per week; men fervants employed in
heckling, twisting, &c. will earn from 5 s. to 8s. per
week.
The perfons concerned in this trade are as follow:
J. Arbuthnot, Scott, & Co. 18 mills, employing 117 fervants, & 35,000 ſpind.
J. Burd & Co.
!
15 ditto,
ditto
99 ditto, & 30,000
C. Cummine & Co.
8 ditto,
ditto
52 ditto, & 16,000
J. Robb & Co.
6 ditto,
ditto
39 ditto,
& 13,000
Alex. Johnſton and Son,
4 ditto,
ditto
27 ditto, & 8000
Alex. Booth,
I ditto,
1000
Total,
52
334
104,000 fpind.
This manufacture is rapidly increaſing, and one company
is inftantly going to add fix twift-mills to thofe already
employed. The cotton-cloth manufacture lately eſtabliſhed
by Meffrs J. Arbuthnot, Grant, and Company, employs
30 weavers.
This company ſpins their own cotton upon
four jennys; their goods, when manufactured into cheques,
napkins, and winfeys, are ſuppoſed to fell for L. 35,000
Sterling
of Peterhead.
617
Sterling annually. The woollen-cloth manufacture carried
on by the Meffrs Arbuthnots, Dalgarno, and Company
employs fix weavers, and one fpinning jenny for clothing,
or big wheel yarn. Their cloth conſiſts of ſtuffs, feys, far-
ges, mankies, duffles, and it is thought will fell for about
L. 1800 Sterling per annum.
The Meffis Kilgours at Kinmundie, in the parish of Long-
fide, employ in this town and parish 16 women ſpinners,
and 6 weavers, whofe work will amount, when manufac-
tured, to L. 600 Sterling each year.
They bring their wool from Northumberland, and chiefly
fleece-wool. All the fervants employed in the above ma-
nufactures are fuppofed to be conftantly employed; but as
many of them have families, and others work to private
cuſtomers, there is at leaſt one-third more engaged in the
different branches of manufacture than ftated in the above
account.
Meffrs, Gordon, Baron, and Company at Aberdeen, em-
ploy in the town and parish of Peterhead, in the cotton-
manufacture, 30 weavers, who, with hands neceffary for
filling their pirns, will gain annually L. 715 Sterling. The
value of this cloth when manufactured will amount to
L. 4300 Sterling.
The tin-plate manufacture, juſt in its infancy, carried on
by one hand, amounts to about L. 100 Sterling.
The amount of the nail-manufacture, which at prefent
only employs about eight hands, is L. 400 Sterling.
The falt-manufacture, which only commenced about
twelve months ago, with one pan, makes, in the courſe of a
year, 4000 bushels of falt, which, at 4 s. per bufhel, amounts
to L. 800 Sterling.
The work finiſhed by two fhip-builders, and two boat-
carpenters, who employ a confiderable number of hands, in
VOL. XVI.
4 I
the
I
I
:
618
Statistical Account
the course of a year, it is fuppofed will amount to L. 1200
Sterling.
It is but fair to mention, that feveral gentlemen in this
town have connexions in trade, that cannot be ſaid to be-
long properly to this place, particularly Meffrs James and
Thomas Arbuthnots, who are concerned in the manufac-
ture of kelp, and in the ſalmon-fishing, to a very large ex-
tent in different parts of the kingdom*, and are likewiſe
concerned as ſhip-owners; and the Meffrs Huchinfons, and
other merchants, who employ a number of fhips, their own
property, of great value, in carrying goods to merchants in
different places, fome at a very remote ¡diftance; befides
fome others, that have confiderable tranſactions, that cannot
properly
*The Meffrs Arbuthnots were early promoters of the fifhings and ma-
nufactures in this place, and are ſtill connected with them; they are
likewiſe tackſmen of the falmon-fiſhing on Ugie. The Meffrs Hutchin-
fons are likewiſe connected with the fiſhings, and other branches of trade
belonging to this town. It is to be regretted that the fiſhings have not been
extended farther. The lobster-fhing, from Peterhead to the Pentland
frith, is an object of confiderable importance, and has been in the hands
of Engliſh merchants for thefe laſt 30 years. The fifliers in the town of
Peterhead are ſo well acquainted with the method of taking them, that
many of them are employed in different parts of the Moray frith by agents
ſettled in Peterhead by different companies in England. There are vaſt
varieties of flat fish on this coaft, or at no great diſtance from this place,
which might be caught with a trail net, which has never been attempted.
Herrings are frequently on the coaft, but a boat or ſhip never was fent in
fearch of them. The Dutch catch them every fummer, as well as cod.
Ships paſs every week from the Pentland frith with live cod, and flat fiſh,
for the London market. Great quantities of large ling and cod might be
caught here, and dried on the rocks, befides what are taken by the fiſhers
of Boddom in boats.
There is ſtill room for improvements in the manner of catching fish.
In the Mediterranean, fish are caught in nets with flambeaux in the night
time. In the rivers in Scotland it has long been a practice to kill
falmon and trouts with lighted torches in the darknefs of the night. It
has often been fuggefted to make trial of this method with falmon at
ſea, but it has never been attempted.
of Peterhead.
619
properly be placed to the trade of this place, particularly
one of the name of Findlater, who deals very extenfively,
both in the foreign and domeſtic trade; two years ago tra-
velled from Peterſburgh to Moſcow, and this year intends
being at Conftantinople.
Fairs. In the town there is a weekly market on Fri-
day; and two annual fairs, one in the month of May, and
the other in November.
Taverns.—There are 30 taverns in the parish, all in the
town, excepting two in the country part of the parish, and
thefe are in the fea-town of Boddom.
Shops.-There are about 35 fhops in the town; of theſe,
there are 20 dealers in tea, and 18 dealers in ſpirits.
Flefb-market.-Prior to 1792, in the flesh-market 250
oxen and cows were killed each year, 600 fheep, and 6ɔ
fwine, befides calves, which were numerous. For theſe
last two years there is above one-fourth of an increaſe in
thefe different articles; but the precife number of each can-
not be aſcertained.
Excife and Customs.-The duties for excife for ale and
malt laſt year were L. 273 Sterling. Duties on licenfes for
ſpirits, teas, tobacco, wine, &c. were L. 176 Sterling.
From the 5th of January 1792 to the 5th of January 1793,
the amount of the duties on cuftoms paid for goods im-
ported from foreign parts was L. 557 59 Sterling.
Poft-office.-There is a poſt-office here, which remitted
to the General Poft-office last year of poſtages, free of all
expences, L. 280 Sterling; 6 years ago L 119, and 12
years
620
Statistical Account
years ago L. 60 Sterling. There are at prefent 6 pofts; in
a few days there will be 7 pofts, or runners, every week.
Bank Agents.-There are two agents in this town for
the two banks at Aberdeen; and befides what tranfactions
may be made for other banks, it is fuppofed theſe two
agents do buſineſs, in the courſe of one year, to the extent
at leaſt of L. 120,000 Sterling; and I am glad to find the
credit of this place is much reſpected, not only from its opu-
lence, but the fairneſs of the tranſactions of the inhabitants.
A bankruptcy is a very rare occurrence in this town; and
when it does happen, the lofs fuflained by creditors is not
very confiderable.
Charity Funds in Peterhead.
Merchants box, annual collections of the members, and in-
tereft of money,
L.90 0 09
Free-mafon's box of Keith Lodge, from the
company reforting to the well,
rage,
Rent of billiard-table,
at an ave-
L. 40
Yearly contribution from go mem-
bers, I s. each,
Take off intereft payable,
Gardener's fociety, houfe-rents,
O O
10 0 0
4 10 O
O
L. 54 10
L. 4 10 0
Yearly contributions of 144 mem-
bers, 2 s. each,
L. 27
L.27
Ο
14
8
8 0
L. 41
8
5 8
9
50 0 9
Take off intereft payable,
Carried forward,
36 0 0
L. 170
Q
of Peterhead.
621
1
Brought forward,
L. 170 0
Trades fociety, houſe-rents,
Yearly contributions of 105 mem-
bers, 2 s. each,
Take off an annuity of one life,
Weaver's fociety, houfe-rents,
L. 31 7 0
10 10 0
L.
41 17 O
14
27 17 0
L. 23 0 ọ
Annual contributions of 108 mem-
bers, 1 s. 6 d. each,
8 2 0
L. 31 2
Take off intereft payable,
11 2 O
20 0 0
Pilots fociety, houfe-rents, and annual contri-
butions, &c. above
intereft of
St Andrew's fociety, commenced by a few
young gentlemen in the town,
money,
Annual contributions of members,
Union ſociety, annual contributions of 6 d. each
month of 200 members,
20
Lo 18 o
3 2 0
4 0 0
60 o o
37 0 0
L. 344 17
Sailor's fociety, houfe-rents, annual collections
of the members, &c. make a revenue of
Total,
N. B. The farmer fociety is not reckoned in the above
account, though a great many of the members belong to
the town and parish; their yearly income may be about
L. 21 Sterling.
Price of Provifions.-Provifions are much increaſed in
their price. An ox, that could have been purchaſed 30
years
622
Statistical Account
3
years ago at L. 2, now cofts from L. 5 to L. 6 Sterling,
eggs were at 1 d. each dozen, they are now from 4 d. to
5 d. fometimes 6 d. and frequently difficult to be purchaſed
at any price, from the brifk demand for the London mar-
ket. Forty years ago, from the 1st of December to the
middle of March, no freſh beef was to be found, and there
was no regular market. At that time beef was fold from
Iod. to I s. 2 d. Scotch per lb.; beef now coſts from 3 d.
to 4 d. Sterling each lb. Thirty years ago, veal was ne-
ver fed; and when expoſed to fale, was purchafed at 6 d.
each quarter; it is now excellently fed, and fells from d.
to 5 d. each lb.; lamb at the fame price, fometimes 6 d.
From 1760 to 1763 mutton was fold by the quarter; a
butcher then began to fell it by weight at 14 d. per lb.
The inhabitants were much diſpleaſed at him for this in-
novation, and raifing the price. Mutton now fells from
2 d. to 3 d. and fometimes 4 d. each lb. In 1753, butter
fold at 24 d. each lb.; it now fells from 6 d. to 8 d. Hens
30 years ago were fold from 4 d. to 5 d. each; they now
fell from 8 d. to 10 d.: chickens were 1 d.; they are now
from 2 d. to 3 d. each. Haddocks were 1 d. each dozen,
and fometimes only that price each ſcore; they frequently
now coft 1 d. each, and if large, a higher price. Lobfters
were frequently purchaſed formerly for 1 d. each; they are
now from 2 d. to 4 d. Sucking pigs, 20 or 30 years ago,
were only 6 d.; now they are from 3 s. to 5 s. Sterling
each.
I
I
Number of Tradefmen.-Number of tradeſmen in the
pariſh, the greateſt part of whom are in the town :
Weavers, 40 of whom work with the fly-fhuttle, only in-
troduced here 21 years ago,
Shoemakers,
132
57
Coopers
1
of Peterhead.
623
Coopers in the town, who, befides ordinary work for the
inhabitants, make annually 100 falmon-barrels, 2000
barrels for cod and herring, 1000 falmon-kits, and 100
barrels for beef and pork,
Tailors,
Maſons,
Houſe-carpenters, fhip and boat-carpenters, and wheel-
wrights,
Turners,
Bakers, (30 years ago only two fuperannuated),
Blackſmiths,
Nailers,
Tinfmith,
14
36
48
IIO
3
14
16
8
Watchmakers,
Hecklers,
Dyers,
Slaters,
Barbers,
Plasterers,
Flefhers,
Wool.combers,
Houſe-painter,
Saddler,
Gardeners,
ง
I
3
20
5
5
7 58
6
I
I
5
There is only one gardener who manages his own gar-
den, the reſt are employed in dreffing the gardens in Peter-
head, or as day-labourers, excepting one, who confines his
attention to a ſmall farm.
There never was a bookfeller, bookbinder, or ftationer
in this town, that deferves to be mentioned; there is one
going to fettle very ſoon, and to carry on all theſe different
branches; I fincerely wish he may meet with encourage-
ment.
Review
t
624
Statistical Account
Review of Population.-Though the population of the
parish has already been mentioned, it may not be improper
to ſtate the population of the town of Peterhead, and the
value of property at different periods.
In 1593, there were only 14 feus, allowing to each fa-
mily 4, this makes the number of inhabitants at that time
56. From an anonymous manuſcript, I find in 1727 there
was fuppofed to be in the town about 230 families, which,
ſuppoſing it to be accurate, would make the inhabitants to
be at that time about 900. In 1764, they were 1266; in
1769, they were 1518; in 1790, they were 2550; and at
prefent they are fuppofed to be about 3000. Dr Laing
eſtimates them in 1764 at 1500; but this is a mistake, as
that year I vifited every family in my parish, and I am
confident no lift was taken that year, or in 1769, excepting
by myſelf. The lift in 1790 was taken by the managers.
of the town, at which I was not prefent: of the accuracy
of it, however, I have no doubt. From this ftatement
it will appear how rapidly this town has increaſed in po-
pulation theſe laft 30 years. In a few years, probably lefs
than 40 years from the time I took the firſt liſt, I make no
doubt the number of inhabitants will be trebled.
Value of Feus at different Periods.-The value of the feus
and property in the town has increaſed very much; in
1593, from confidering the charter, each acre appears to
have coſt about L. 50 Sterling. Since the Governors of
the Merchant Maiden Hofpital became proprietors, they
have feued off land at the rate of 16 s. per fall, and I d.
of feu-duty for every foot of front, or at L. 128 Sterling
per acre.
Now they have refolved to fell none under L. Is
10s. per fall, or at the rate of L. 240 per acre; with 1 d.
for every foot of front as feu-duty. There are many in-
ſtances, however, of much higher prices being paid in Pe-
terhead;
of Peterhead.
625
terhead; lately 3-4ths of an acre were purchaſed for L. 90,
and in two years afterwards were fold for L. 200 Sterling.
A fite for a houfe, confifting only of five falls and five ells,
fold for L. 37 Sterling a few months ago; that is, nearly at
the rate of L. 1150 per acre. About 20 years ago, the
Governors aſked L. 150 for one acre; a gentleman only
offered L. 145; on this acre houſes to a great value are now
erected; but were there no houfes, it would probably fetch
eight times the money that was formerly aſked for it. An-
other acre, about 30 years ago, was purchaſed for L. 120,
one fourth part of which would at prefent fetch from L. 400
to L. 500 Sterling. There are fome particular fituations,
where L. 100 would be obtained for a fite for a houfe, with
very little back ground.
Within theſe few years more houfes have been built
than at any former periód in the fame ſpace of time; lately
four new ſtreets were opened, on which a number of houſes
are already built, and feus daily giving off. Within theſe
laft two years, in the courfe of 12 months, I am informed
L. 4000 Sterling have been expended on building houſes.
Character.—The inhabitants are in general very atten-
tive, very induftrious, fober, difcreet, and humane. They
are very regular in their attendance on public worſhip, and
thefe good qualities may in general be applied to the whole
of the parish.
Style of Living.-The ſtyle of living is much changed of
late; but the inhabitants, for the most part, are economi-
cal, and live within their income. Luxuries of life are now
more frequent than formerly, both in drefs and entertain-
ments; but, on the whole, there is lefs of diffipation, extra-
vagance, and drunkenneſs, than in any town of the ſame fize
and opulence with which I am acquainted.
VOL. XVI.
4 K
Among
626
Statistical Account
Among the lower claffes dram and tea drinking is too
frequent, and the too general ſubſtitution of ſpirits in place
of malt liquor has a pernicious influence on their health and
morals.
When I was fettled in 1763, there was no poſt-chaiſe ;
there are at preſent two in the town, which are fufficient
in winter, but in fummer they cannot ſupply the demand
for chaiſes from the inhabitants and company who reſort
hither. Thirty years ago, as far as I can recollect, there
was no clothier's fhop; the inhabitants in general were fa-
tisfied with cloth manufactured at home, or goods retailed
here from Glafgow, or commiffioning cloth from Aber-
deen. There are at prefent three clothiers fhops, who
have all kinds of cloth from the different manufacturing
towns in England, befides fuch goods as are made at Paiſ-
ley and Glaſgow. There are two ſhops who fell only goods
from theſe two manufacturing towns; frequently different
people find it their intereft to bring goods from theſe pla-
ces, and refide in this town till they are fold.
Hints of Improvement.—In a word, the town of Peter-
head is in a very thriving ftate, and would be much more
improved if there was a firm and ſteady police, fome nui-
fances removed, greater exertions made to improve the
harbour, foft fpring-water brought into the town, which
might be found at no great diftance, the streets better pa-
ved, and illuminated with lamps in winter; it would like-
wife contribute much to the ornament of the town, if fome
regular plan could be adopted as to the fize of the houſes
in the new ſtreets that are lately opened.-There is no
greater defect than the want of a proper fchoolmiſtreſs of
education, manners, and character, to teach the young girls
fuch branches of education as are only to be found in lar-
ger towns at a very high expence.
I
of Peterhead.
627
I fhall only add, that if more liberal ideas were enter-
tained of the education of children, it would make a fa-
vourable alteration on the manners and fentiments of the
inhabitants, and gradually introduce a more general defire
for the improvement of the mind and the heart.
Abſtract of Imports, Exports, and Manufactures of Peter-
head each Year.
IMPORTS.
Foreign wood, at an average of five years, L. 1252
Ditto, from Spey and coaftways,
Coals and cinders,
Lime,
Flax,
Yarn from Huntly, Keith, &c. 30,000 fpin-
dles, .
Iron,
о
876
о
1036 0
O
506 0
2774 0
3900
о о
6со о о
Bales from Mancheſter, Leeds, Glaſgow, e. 6000 о о
Groceries from London, Leith, &c.
Wines,
Rum and foreign ſpirits,
Britiſh ſpirits,
Sundries from Dantzick,
Clover and flax-feed from Holland,
Tiles, flates, and bricks,
Total imports,
12,000
IIOO оо
600
O
900
1500
o
300
Ο
600
L. 33,944
0
O
EXPORTS,
628
Statistical Account
EXPORTS.
Kelp, 50 tons, at L. 5 per ton,
L.250
Ꮕ
750
о
O
700
О
Ο
460
O
162
о
о
400
o
Barrels of cod, 500, at L. 1, 10s. per barrel,
Dried cod, 25 tons, at L. 28 per ton,
Barrels of herring, 400, at L. 1, 3s. per barrel,
Salted falmon, 50 barrels, at L. 3, 5s. per do.
ICOO bolls of potatoes, at 8 s. per boll,
Kirb and carriage-way ftones, 700 tons, 13 s.
per ton,
Exports of grain,
Butter, 135 tons, at L. 58 per ton,
Cheeſe, 170 tons, at L. 18 per ton,
Eggs,
Threads manufactured here,
3145
455
7310 O
7830 0
400 о
O
20,000 O
O.
3500
O
Q
1800
о
O
600
о
O
715
400
O
100 O.
Cotton-cloth manufacture,
Woollen-cloth ditto,
Meffrs Kilgour, ditto,
Meffrs Gordon, Baron, and Company, for
•
work in Peterhead,
Nail manufacture,
Tinplate ditto,
Salt manufactory, 4000 bushels, 4 s. per
buſhel,
Ship and boat-building,
Oil, whalebone, feal-fkins, &c. from the
whale-ſhip,
Hides and tallow, exported to Leith and
Aberdeen,
Beef exported from September 1794 to Janu-
800 0 0
120Q о о
ΙΙΟΟ
Q
300 0
ary 1795,
750 о O
Pork exported from ditto to ditto,
342 o Ó
Carried forward, L. 53,469 •
of Peterhead.
629
Brought forward,
L. 53,469 0
Salmon and cod barrels, and falmon-kits, (be-
fides fupplying theſe articles to the trade
in Peterhead), which are exported,
For lobſters exported to London,
Shoes, turnery goods, and ropes from the
ropery, exported,
Beef, ale, and bread, to ftranger fhips,
349 o o
50 O O
3.000
O:
500 · 0
Increaſe on the thread-manufactures in 1795, 2000.
Total exports,
L. 56,668 。
a
Total imports,
Total imports and exports,
Balance in favour of the town,
33,944
L. 90,612 00
L. 22,724
о
N. B. Fractions in the above abſtract are omitted.
From the above abſtract it appears, that the trade of this
town is above L. yo,ooo. If I had ftated the money fup-
poſed to be left by the company who attend the mineral
well, and the amount of the trade carried on by merchants
refiding in the town, but which cannot properly be faid to
belong to this port, by which I do not mean any illicit
trade, I have no doubt the trade of the town of Peterhead
would be found to exceed L. 100,coc Sterling each year.
P. S. Upon revifing this abftract feveral weeks after it
was finished, I am fenfible fome deductions will be made,
as the Meffrs Kilgours do not refide in this town, and part
of the victual, butter, and cheefe are exported by mer-
chants, who have their refidence elſewhere; but having
likewife diſcovered, that no mention is made of cart-
wheels,
630
Statistical Account
wheels, leather, and dye-ftuffs imported here, nor any va
lue fet upon the carts, cart-wheels, ploughs, labouring
utenfils, and houſehold-furniture, fent to the country, which
is very confiderable, and that no ſtatement is made of the
freights drawn for fhips employed in trade not connected
with this port, I am very confident I have no reaſon to
make the amount of the trade lefs than I have reprefented
it; and if I were to make any alterations, it would be
only to ſhow, that the trade probably is confiderably above
L. 100,000.
NUM-
of Lonmay.
631
NUMBER XXIX.
PARISH OF LON MAY,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF ABERDEEN, AND PRESBYTERY
OF DEER).
From Materials collected by Mr JOHN LUNDIE,
Minister of Lonmay.
Name, Situation, and Extent.
HIS pariſh at different times has been named St Colm,
THI
from the name of the faint to whom the old church
was dedicated, and Longmay, Longmey, and Lonmay, from
the name of the eſtate on which the church now ftands.
It is fituated in the preſbytery of Deer, and in the Synod
and county of Aberdeen. Its length is 10 Engliſh miles;
its greateſt breadth ſcarcely four miles. It is bounded on
the S. E. by Crimond; on the S. by Longfide and Old
Deer; on the S. W. by Brechin; on the W. and N. E. by
Rathen; and on the E. by the German Ocean.
Soil
632
Statistical Account
Soil and Climate.-The foil of the parish is various. The
air, eſpecially on the coaft, is rather moiſt, but not un-
healthy.
Mineral Springs.-There are many mineral fprings in
the parish, but they have never been analyzed; and from
the celebrity of the mineral well of Peterhead, at 12 miles
diſtance, they are little uſed.
Lake. There is only one lake, lying on the boundary
betwixt the parishes of Lonmay and Crimond. It is now
called the loch of Strathbeg. It was formerly a fmall rivu-
let, called indifferently the burn of Strathbeg, and water of
Rattray. Buchanan calls it Ratra amnis. By a ftorm the
nouth of it was fhut up, and fucceffive banks of fand have
been thrown up by the fea, and the rivulet has, in the
courſe of a little more than a century, become a lake of
550 Scotch, or 700 English acres. For feveral years paft
it has not increaſed in magnitude; the evaporation from
the furface being equal to the quantity of water emptied
into the lake. Were a perfon to meaſure with tole-
rable accuracy the quantity of water which runs into
this lake, it would poffibly afford data for proving, that
the evaporation from the Cafpian Sea is fufficient to
counterbalance all the water poured in from the rivers
which empty themfelves into it. An attempt has been
lately made to drain the lake of Strathbeg; but the
perfon who made the attempt failed in his circumftances,
which has fufpended the work. It is faid, however, that
he is foon to refume it. His reward is a long leaſe of the
grounds covered by the lake: The fishes contained in this
lake are, red and white trout, eels, flounders, and large fresh
water muſcles, commonly called pearl muſcles. No pearls,
however,
I
of Lonmay.
633
however, have been found in the muſcles taken out of this
lake.
The foil in the bottom of this lake is not deep, but is
feemingly of a marly nature, owing, perhaps, to muſcle-
fhells decayed.
Rivers, c.-No navigable rivers run through the pa-
rish, but a confiderable ſtream, one of the branches of the
Ugie, runs by the north and fouth-eaft boundaries. A ca-
nal could be carried along both branches of the Ugie at no
great expence, and with the moft beneficial confequences
to the agriculture and commerce of Buchan.
This parish has above four miles of coaſt, and the ſhore
is flat and fandy. The fpecies of fish caught on this coaſt
are turbot, holibut, plaice, ſkate, ling, cod, fand-eel, had-
dock, whiting, cole-fish, flounders, foles, and mackaral.
Sometimes, but rarely, fea-bream, wraffe, and dorce. Her-
ring alſo are found, but there are no herring-nets. One
trial was made of fiſhing for falmon, and was tolerably
fuccefsful.
Sea-wreck of ſeveral kinds is found on the coaſt; and
kelp is made, but in ſmall quantities.
There are two fiſhing-towns belonging to Mr Gordon of
Buthlaw. One of thefe was lately built, and confiſts of 20
tiled houſes, placed in two parallel rows, with a ſtreet in
the middle.
The
Moſes. There are feveral extenfive moffes in this pa-
rish. A large one belongs to Mr Milne of Crimond-mo-;
gate, another to Mr Cumming of Kinithmont.
other heritors, Mr Duff of Logie, fon of the late Admiral
Duff, Mr Biffet of Rathon, and Mr Frafer of Park, have
alſo moffes, which abound in the whole diſtrict of Buchan.
VOL. XVI.
4 L
Minerals,
634
Statistical Account
Minerals. No marble, freeſtone, or flate, and not much
moorſtone, are found in this parish. But a blue ftone has
been quarried on the eſtate of Cairneſs, belonging to Mr
Gordon of Buthlaw. This, contrary to the nature of the
blue ftone commonly found in Aberdeenshire, cuts as well
as granite, and makes beautiful afhler work. Of this ftone,
Mr Gordon has lately built an elegant modern houſe, on a
plan given by Mr Playfair.
No coal mines are found in this parish; but limeſtone is
found in great quantities on the eſtate of Craigellie, about
2 Engliſh miles from the church, and is much uſed for ma
nure.
Quadrupeds.-The quadrupeds found in this parish, be-
fides horſes, ſheep, hogs, black cattle, dogs, and cats, are
moles in great numbers, foxes feen fometimes, otters in the
lake of Strathbeg, obſerved but feldom, polecats, weafels,
common and fhrew-mice, hares, rats, and water-rats.
Birds.-The birds and wild fowls are of various kinds;
jack-daws, magpies, the cuckoo, fwans, and wild-geefe, (in
Strathbeg after harveft, and till the fpring), barnacles fhot
on the coaft, duck in Strathbeg at all feafons, teals on the
coaft, foland-geeſe paffing in fight of land, common gull,
and great black and white gull, tarrock, heron, curlieu,
woodcock, fnipe, jack-fnipe, lapwing, (not fo numerous as
formerly), fand-pipers, green plover, coots, land-rail, grous
in the moffes, partridges, quails, fky-lark, ftarlings, field-
fare, generally appearing before fnow, thrush, black bird,
chatterers, croff bill, feen but rarely, greenfinches, gold-
finches, chaffinches, yellow hammers, red ſparrows, hedge
fparrows, redbreafts, water-wagtails, fwifts, fwallows, and
white-ears.
Population.
2
635
of Lonmay:
Population.-The return to Dr Webſter in 1755 was
1674 fouls. The number of inhabitants of all ages at pre-
fent is about 1650. Of which, 311 are Scotch Epifcopals,
and 17 are Seceders. If we may judge from the fituation
of the church of St Colm, (of which part of the weft glebe
ſtill remains, and which ſtood on the north-eaſt part of the
pariſh, 10 miles from the fouth by. weft extremity), popu-
lation has formerly been very thin in this pariſh, except on
the fea-coaft.
Agriculture.-The agriculture of this diftrict, though
certainly improved of late years by the introduction of
lime and green crops, has not advanced fo much as might
have been expected. One great error of the Buchan far-
mers, which is apt to ftrike even a ftranger riding through
the country, is the ploughing too feldom. In deep clay
foils, where, in the county of Angus, three ploughings are
always ufed, beans are frequently fown broadcaft after one
ploughing, and bear after beans in the fame manner. Yet
a very good crop of drilled beans is to be ſeen this year
(1795) upon a farm in the perſonal poffeffion of one of the
heritors. It is alfo to be remarked, that a rotation of crops
is not yet eſtabliſhed in this diſtrict. While the heritor
only ploughs where he cannot get grafs to grow any longer,
the tenant fometimes ploughs as long as corn of any kind
will grow. A regular rotation of crops, adapted to the dif
ferent foils, is too little attended to in this diſtrict; and now
that lime is very generally uſed, the lands may fuffer from
injudicious cropping.
Rent of the Parish.-The rent of this parish is about.
2000 guineas; and may be fuppofed to increaſe with the
improvements in agriculture.
Ecclefiaftical
636
Statistical Account
Ecclefiaftical State.-The minifter's ftipend is 9 chalders
of victual, and 600 merks Scots, or L. 33:6: 8 Sterling in
money. Mr Gordon of Buthlaw is patron. The church
was built in 1787. The old church had ſtood fince 1608,
at which period the parish-church was removed from St
Colm to Lonmay.
NUM.
of Premnay.
437
NUMBER XXX.
PARISH OF PREM NAY,
(COUNTY AND SYNOD OF ABERDEEN, PRESBYTERY OF
GARIOCH.)
By a Friend to Statistical Inquiries:
PREMN
Origin of the Name, &c.
TAY is fituated in the county and Synod of
Aberdeen, and in the diſtrict and prefbytery of Ga-
rioch. Its name is derived from the Gaelic. It is bound-
ed on the S. by the mountain of Bennochie, which feparates
it from the parish of Keig; on the W. by the parish of
Leflie; on the N. by Kinnethmont and Infch; and on the
E. by the parish of Oyne.
Extent.-Premnay, exclufive of the uncultivated and un-
inhabited part of it on Bennochie, is a long ftripe of land,
lying along the water of Gady, (which runs through it),
and is about four miles long by one and an half miles broad.
It contains nearly 3000 acres, (exclufive of the mountain of
Bennochie), about 2000 of which has been made arable, and
3
nearly
!
638
Statistical Account
nearly 1000 of it limed, incloſed, and planted with hedge-
rows on one eſtate.
Soil. The foil is various. On the banks of the Gady,
in general, it is very rich; on the fide of the mountain of
Bennochie it is much poorer. In feveral places a ſtrong
clay; and on fome fmall knolls or hills on the north fide of
Gidy, a fandy loam, which in fome places is fhallow, and
eafily hurt in dry feaſons, but is in general both early and
fertile.
Mountain.-The mountain of Bennochie is one of the
largeſt in the county of Aberdeen. It is nearly 1000 feet
above the level of the fea, and about 750 feet above the
level of the water of Gady, oppofite to the church of Prem-
nay, and its baſe may cover an area of about 4000 acres,
the greateſt part of which is unarable. The name Ben-
nochie is ſaid to fignify, Hill with the paps, from its having
feveral tops. It is a royal foreft, though no trees are now
raiſed, excepting a few on the fkirts of the mountain. It
appears from the Laurus Leflcana, that it was formerly
fortified; and the remains of a ſtone wall are ſtill ſtanding
near its higheſt top. It fupplies the inhabitants of the
neighbouring pariſhes with peats for fuel; but in rainy fea-
fons it is very difficult of acceſs. It contains ftones of very
fine granite, which are much efteemed, and carried ſeveral
miles.
River. The ſmall rivulet Gady, produces very good
trout, but no falmon. It is uſeful in turning different corn-
mills in this and the neighbouring parishes.
Manure. The only manure, except the dung raiſed on
the farms, is lime brought from Aberdeen, a diflance of
24
of Premnay.
639
..
..
-
1
L
24 miles. But if the projected canal were carried to Infch, i
it would be eafily within the reach of the farmers of this
pariſh.
Agriculture.-About 24 years ago the greateſt part of
this parish was unincloſed and unimproved. But at that
period, Mr Gordon, late proprietor of the principal eſtate,
began to improve his lands on a great fcale. Carts
from Aberdeen, loaded with lime, were hired to Inverury,
a diſtance of 14 miles, and Mr Gordon's own horfes and
oxen went to Inverury, and brought the lime from that
town to Premnay. The fields were inclofed and planted
with hedge-rows, and in general were thoroughly limed.
Proper farm-houſes, and other neceffary buildings were
erected; and the lands, after being feveral years in the pro-
prietor's own hands, were let to different farmers. The
eftate has fince been fold at 60 years purchaſe of the old
rent, before the improvements commenced. Yet the ex-
pence of improving the lands at fuch a diſtance from a ſea-
port, has hurt the fortune of the intelligent and public ſpi-
rited gentleman who improved them. It may here be re-
marked, that it is more prudent for a landed gentleman to
improve one farm, and then let it, and afterwards to im-
prove the other farms in fucceffion, than to attempt im-
proving the whole at once. Labourers cannot eafile be
had; the price of labour is fuddenly railed; the difficulty
of hoeing large quantities of turnips, of cutting down
and ſtacking large quantities of hay, and of harveſting
large quantities of grain in rainy, or in late ſeaſons, be-
comes very great, eſpecially where many of the labourers
muſt travel two or three miles to and from their work;
and a gentleman improves at a greater expence than what
is incurred by a common farmer, who is his own overfeer.
Befides,
640
Statistical Account
Befides, as the market price of every commodity is regu
lated by the proportion between thofe who buy and thoſe
who fell, when his improvements are finiſhed, a gentle-
man, who has his whole eftate in the market at once, cannot
expect the fame rent for it, as if he let every other year a
newly improved farm to a practical farmer. Perhaps the
moft advantageous way in which an eſtate can be impro-
ved, is to give the farmer encouragement, and even affift-
ance to improve it. For example, if the neceffary quan-
tity of lime cannot be afforded by the farmer, the proprie
tor may give as much lime as is wanted, and aſk for his
payment a gradual increaſe of rent. The writer of this
article knew a gentleman who raiſed his rents from 15 s. to
L. 2 an acre in this manner. He gave his farmers 50 bolls
of lime to each acre. This coft him at that time about
L.
5, 5 s. In three years the additional rife of rent indem-
nified him; and yet his farmers paid their rents regularly;
and one of them received L. 11 from his landlord, or the
rent of 5 acres, for two acres of fown grafs. The only
difficulty here is to find tenants in whom one can con-
fide.
Population. The population of this pariſh has fluctuated
very much. In Dr Webſter's account it was 448. About
14 years ago it was as low as 260, after the old farmers
were removed. Three years ago it was 471 examinable
perfons, or about 550 of all ages; and at prefent it is only
about 450.
Manufactures.-Small quantities of lint are raiſed for
private families; but the knitting of ſtockings is the only
manufacture of any conſequence.
Proprietors,
of Premnay.
641
Proprietors, c-Of thefe there are four, but none of
them at prefent refide in the parish. The rent of the pa-
riſh amounts nearly to L. 1000.
Ecclefiaftical State.-Mr James Douglas is the prefent
minifter. His ftipend, by a late decreet, is worth L. 100
Sterling. Colonel Hay of Rannes is patron. The church
was lately rebuilt, and the manfe repaired and enlarged.
Character of the People, and Mifcellaneous Obfervations.
-They are in general fober, honeft, and induftrious.
Where an eſtate is newly peopled, the farmers cannot be
fuppofed to be fo much attached to the foil, or to the pro-
prietor, as here they have refided on the lands from their
infancy. And it fometimes happens, that a ftranger will
take an improved farm, with a defign to fcourge it. This
cannot be juſtified by the laws of morality. On the other
hand, an indulgent landlord is refpected by his old tenants;
and whenever the rents of an eſtate are raiſed beyond a
certain fum, the proprietor feldom gains fo much in point
of real intereft, as he loſes in point of refpectability of cha-
racter. In the diſtrict of Garioch, nominal rents have pro-
duced bad payments and difpirited farmers. A little far-
ther advancement in the knowlege of farming, and a little
more indulgence from the proprietor, will, it is hoped, foon
produce in a country naturally fertile, rents that are regu
larly paid, and farmers who are enterprifing and inde-
pendent.
VOL. XVI.
4 M
APPEN
1
}
APPENDIX to the STATISTICAL ACCOUNT of
the Pariſh of INVERESK.
BY
Y defire of the patron of the parish, a meeting of
heritors was held in November 1794, to confult
about repairing or rebuilding the church, when an enquiry
was directed to be made reſpecting the number of perſons,
who could be accommodated with feats in the preſent
church, and the number who might be expected to require
feats, if there was a church built of ſufficient dimenfions.
The refult was as follows:
Total number of fouls in the parish,
5392
Burgher Seceders,
Church of Reliefers,
Epifcopals,
Anabaptifts,
Papiſts,
Total number of fectaries,
559
516
74
17
3
1169
There remains of the Eſtabliſhed Church,
4223
To be deduced for children under age,
600
Ditto for aged perfons, fervants, &c.
600
1200
There remains of perfons to go to church,
1
3023
From which fubtract the number the church holds,
There remain unprovided for,
2
1136
1887
The
Appendix, &c.
643
The heritors having met after this enquiry was made
and reported to them, Reſolved, after having confidered it,
That as neither the walls nor roof of the prefent church are
ruinous or infufficient, that there appears no neceffity for
pulling the church down at this time, and rebuilding it.
This refolution was made, though it was underſtood that
the town of Muffelburgh was willing to be at two-thirds
of the expence in rebuilding the church,
N. B. It is proper to obſerve, in juftice to this populous
pariſh, that however wavering many of them may have
been in their political opinions during the years 1792 and
1793, it is certain, that no more than 30 joined thoſe dan-
gerous focieties, who ftyled themſelves Friends of the
People.
It is neceffary to add, that there is a miſtake in the
Statistical Account, which ſtates the revenue of the town
of Muffelburgh at L. 1500, as it does not amount now to
more than L. 1200, having been reduced by the fall of the
rent of their mills.
END OF VOLUME SIXTEENTH.
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
i
3 9015 01193 1790